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+[0:12] Oh you done me on this corner. And I don't know where I'm at. Supposed to meet my baby. 20 minutes late. You got my head all twisted.
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+[0:35] You're listening to Heritage Radio Network. This is Dave Arnold with Cooking Issues, a show where you call in and talk to us about your cooking issues. Uh every Tuesday from uh 12 to 1245. Uh today's show is brought to you by the Barter House. The Barter House is a proud supporter of Heritage Radio Network.
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+[0:53] The Barter House works with family vineyards and small bottlers from around the world to bring only the finest and most flavorful wines to the market. To learn more about Barter Hearts uh Butterhouse, please visit them at WW The Barter House.com or call them at 917-463-3076. I've actually never had the Barter House. Uh we're here with uh Nastasha Lopez from CookingIssues.com and uh AJ E to one of our uh one of the people who was our interns, he's now graduated. Um so you guys ever had this wine before?
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+[1:21] No. No? No. No. Alright.
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+[1:22] So uh we're just gonna open it on air and and try it. Uh while I'm doing that, I was like, there you go. Uh we're gonna drink this. It's kinda warm. It's a white wine here, it's a Chardonnay uh from New Zealand.
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+[1:35] And uh we're gonna it's kinda warm. We're gonna drink it Cesare Chef Chesare Casella style, which means with ice. So I'm gonna pour this out here. And uh while we're trying this wine to tell you how uh delicious it is, um I'm gonna tell you the call-in number to call in and ask us any kind of question you want. 718 497-2128.
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+[1:55] And so if you have any cooking issues, uh please call and we'll try to uh fix them or at least talk about them. Now uh just to give you a little background what uh we do is uh we're at the French Culinary Institute which is a cooking school in uh downtown New York and I run the technology department which means uh any kind of new technique or ingredient uh we deal typically with with chefs but basically anything kind of new or off the wall or kind of weird or any sort of strange problems uh we deal with those and we we solve them for uh various chefs we work with a lot of great chefs around the city uh so you know if you have any questions about sous vide cooking or low temperature cooking which is a you know kind of a new style of cooking that's making a lot of waves in restaurants right now or any kind of new new age thickener new ingredient or if you want to rant because you hate these things and want to engage me in an argument on the air we appreciate that I love rants. I love uh I I especially love ignorant people who don't know what they're talking about calling and saying things about how I use a bunch of chemicals. So if you want to do that I encourage you to call up and uh and we'll have this discussion on air uh and with a with a lot less profanity than you would if you came to my lab and had this conversation. Uh but anyway so let's uh let's first things first let's try out this uh this uh delicious uh this delicious wine uh we're we're drinking uh Kerner Estate uh 2008 uh Chardonnay uh from New Zealand.
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+[3:15] Hold on what do you think guys? Hmm yeah yeah it feels old school like a working lunch having wine at lunch. People don't do that anymore. You know when you visit Europe they still have wine at lunch and then we like Americans drink wine like we do at dinner when we're at the lunch and then we're we're blasted for the rest of the afternoon. Unless actually what happens is in Europe, nothing gets done after lunch, which is I think actually the more accurate thing.
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+[3:37] I think nothing in Europe happens after lunch. But uh but it's kind of pleasant, right? We're sitting here in in Brooklyn in the studio. And uh anyways. So while we're waiting for someone to actually pick up the phone and call.
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+[3:49] Um, and if you call and it gets really uh it gets problematic, like you know, there's yelling and stuff. Nastasha is the hammer, just as she is on on our website, www.cookingissues.com, where when things get out of hand, Nastasha, who brings her her uh her fantastic mix of Russian and and Spanish, brings the hammer down on people. Uh she loves doing that, so please call and get out of hand. We really appreciate it. Nastasha hasn't been able to uh to crush someone recently, so she she's she's looking forward to it.
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+[4:22] Um so anyway, so what do you what do you think? What do you what do you guys uh want to want to talk about uh before we before we get any callers here? You want to maybe you should talk about your rotive app, your new rota vap. Yeah, I saw the post go up last night. Oh, yeah, okay.
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+[4:33] So here's the deal. For for those of you who don't know what a rotor vap is, which is I'm guessing 99.99% of you. What it is is it's a piece of distillation equipment um which allows us to do distillations to make booze basically illegally because you can't distill here in in the US um you know without a distiller's license, it's huge pain in the butt. But it allows us to do distillations at a very low temperature. And what's what's great about that is it is the flavors are the purest cleanest flavors that you could possibly imagine.
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+[5:04] Am I right? You you guys drink it, drink it all the time. I mean, it's not it's not something that we we can get flavors. I mean, commercial beverages are delicious, but it's just we get different kinds of flavors in the roto vap, and they're kind of hard to commercialize because a lot of times they don't last very long or they're difficult to produce, or or they they would be expensive. Anyway, we've been using uh th this equipment, uh of course, like anything else, is exp is super expensive.
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+[5:24] It's many, many thousands of dollars. And uh, you know, I'd used uh um kind of a beat up old version that was older than most of my students. In fact, uh we got off eBay for you know, I got a few bay, I should say, for for almost nothing and and kind of crabbed it together and got it to work really well. Well, the corporation that makes them Bukey, the first name in rotary evaporation. Bukey no, Bukey came to visit us and um they they make the kind of the butt kicking ones and they uh because we were gonna go on this show, the Jimmy Fallon show, and and I told them I didn't wanna I didn't want to have one of their crappy ones from the you know early eighties being the one that everyone saw and so they brought a uh a really nice new rotary evaporator and they they let us keep it, which is fantastic.
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+[6:05] And so the guy sitting next to me, AJ, who spent many, many hours flying our old, you know, kind of beat up roto vap is quite jealous because he's no longer working with us at the school and now it's so much easier to do all of our work, right? That's true. Yeah, yeah. What are the advantages of of verto vaping? Well, all right, well, the the disadvantages are it's illegal, right?
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+[6:26] So th the you know the the reason why you don't see it uh uh uh in a lot of restaurants here is because the chefs are are confined to using it making uh non-alcoholic drinks. If they make an alcoholic drink and try and serve it in their restaurant or their bar, they're endangering their liquor license. So the consequently they don't do it. And the the stuff that's done with water just isn't as exciting enough, especially if you've ever done liquor. It's just not exciting enough to warrant, you know, an eighteen thousand dollar or you know, depends on could be you could get one for five grand, but to all that money, space and training just to do to water-based things, so that's why you don't see it a lot here in the States, although uh there are a couple restaurants in Chicago that use them.
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+[7:02] Um but it allows you to separate flavors in a way that you know you've never done before. So we do, you know, uh as you guys both know, because I've forced you to do it many times, we'll we'll do a chocolate liquor that has uh you know just cocoa, you know, the flavor of chocolate with none of the bitterness because the bitterness doesn't distill just a Roman flavor does. So you have this like chocolate chocolate uh booze with no sugar in it that's you know delicious, and or we'll do uh, you know, very spicy peppers, habanero peppers that that have no spice in them. They're just you know the fl floral, amazing floral aroma. Uh you know, this kind of stuff.
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+[7:34] Or f fresh herbs are kind of my favorite because they're just impossible to re- redo any other way. So, you know, something like uh, although uh Nastasha doesn't like it, you know, cilantro. You know for the by the way, Nastasha who's here, she I assume she's gonna chime in at some point with some of her likes and dislikes, which are the most preposterous dislikes in the she it turns out this lady who's in the food business now works with me who likes who likes everything. I basically like everything in the world with the exception of Nato, which is you know disgusting. The Japanese fermented soybean product natto, which is yeah, I I don't think even in Japan they like it.
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+[8:07] I think they just pretend that they like it because it's supposed to be good for it. But Nastasha hates every damn thing that you're like, oh, I like I like delicious things. She's like, No, I I don't like that. I hate that. Whatever it is, if it's delicious, I hate it.
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+[8:19] So speaking of uh Oh, Nastasha pounded that wine. Jeez. We're talking for like 10 minutes. You did not get a half pour. Come on now.
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+[8:31] She yeah, she she obliterated that wine. Just you know, mutilate it. Anyway. So it's good though. Yeah.
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+[8:39] Well, apparently you think it's good. You drank the whole damn glass. Uh here. Here, uh AJ, pour some pour some more. Yeah.
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+[8:46] Anyway. Um so the uh so while I'm waiting for someone to call in, uh, I will I will that now talk about, because we you know nothing better to do, I'll talk about some of my my pet peeves. So uh related to cooking by my pet peeves. So like one thing I uh I hate, and uh if you know I've been on this network a couple of times on other shows, and I always get to say how much I hate the word molecular gastronomy. Well, here's my opportunity to say it right now, and and how however long and however angry I want to say, do not use the term molecular gastronomy.
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+[9:19] You know, if any of you out there have have heard the term before molecular gastronomy, you do the best to erase this term from from your memory. It's it's awful term. I'll give you some reasons why. Uh one, it's meaningless, it has no meaning. Uh it what does it mean, molecular gastronomy?
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+[9:35] What the hell f first of all, gastronomy is the worst word. It sounds good in French, you know, gastronomy, but sounds like g gas and trotronomy, gastronomy sounds like gastropod, sounds like you have gas, sounds like you're gonna get gas if you eat it, gas molecular sounds disgusting, doesn't sound delicious. So I don't you know I don't really see the point in tagging something you're gonna eat with a term that sounds inherently inherently disgusting. And remember, this term is pioneered by the by this guy in France named Hervé Tis. Ervétisse, who uh as I said, you know, I was on the you know a show here last week, I said, you know, I won't say anything negative about him except for he's a uh uh a charlatan and and what you know and a farce.
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+[10:17] And so like the the thing is is that he thinks molecular gastronomy sounds good because he doesn't really speak English that well, right? He he thinks in English the word food sounds gross, right? Right. No, no seriously, he's like food sounds disgusting, food. Maybe for a Frenchie, but you know, I like food.
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+[10:34] Do you like food? Yes. Food is delicious. Yeah. Anyway, so uh so it's it's a term that has no meaning, it sounds disgusting.
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+[10:42] Uh it's basically a marketing term for this guy in France, Air Vatice. None of the chefs who are being described as doing molecular gastronomy want to be described as doing molecular gastronomy. And it puts you in a pigeonhole that I think is is wrong. First of all, either all of us are manipulating molecules, in which case a guy cooking over a campfire is doing molecular gastronomy, or none of us are manipulating uh, you know, molecules. I don't know anyone with a like a scanning tunneling microscope who's sitting there like adjusting individual molecules in the pie that they're making.
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+[11:10] I know at least one. So but you but you you know you get my point. It's kind of it's it's it's pointless. And um it's also I think what most people don't realize is that these new technologies are being used in restaurants all the time. It's just they don't know it because you know they're not doing the kind of food that is labeled as molecular gastronomy.
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+[11:29] So, you know, uh people assume that if you're using new technologies for cooking that you're actually you know making crazy food, making things that are wacky, making, you know, th and we do do that too, just because you know, we yeah, I mean we do, but you know, a lot of the best applications of these things, you would never know that uh that a technology was used uh to do it. So we serve you a delicious uh drink that's you know uh strawberry flavored and it's crystal clear and it's got you know amazing effervescence and the liquor tastes you know super fresh, unlike anything you've ever had before, and you're not thinking, hey, hey, this you know, these people used, you know, $30,000 worth of equipment and spent like five hours and did like all these new techniques. You're like this is a delicious drink. And I think those are the applications that are uh that are best, right? I mean, you don't necessarily want to know.
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+[12:18] So I I tend not to do things like spray foams all all all into everything, which I think everyone's like, oh, you do foams, yeah, no, no, foams, foam. But and you know, I think that's kind of the you know, it being able to make a good foam is uh kind of you know it's an important you know skill to have but it's not uh you know I very rarely do it you know only when it's kind of when it's called for uh and you know foams are nothing nothing new either right I mean foams uh take for instance uh the head on a beer that's a pretty old foam. I think what people are doing is just trying to take the weirdest thing that they can find and turn it into a foam and then gastronomy. Yeah right gastronomy yeah no but uh I think that's right. I think and then and that's the other problem is some people who actually kind of like the term I mean the the the danger of this with with as with any technique is that someone will take the techniques and just do something just to do it and the stuff doesn't taste very good but then everyone who uses the techniques get paint gets painted with those with that brush.
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+[13:13] And I think that you know that's the main problem. So you don't want to they need the marriage of technique and flavor. Yeah I mean look you know it's it's like saying uh you're only supposed to use these techniques to try and make flavors better or to try and achieve some sort of effect that you like. If you're you know if you're if you're using it just to use it then that's that's not a good that's not a good application. It's like if I handed someone a frying pan, you know they could make really crappy food with that frying pan.
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+[13:38] You know if I hand someone a centrifuge they can make really crappy food with that centrifuge. Centrifuge is something that separates things based on their density. And only use them when they actually make the food better, not when they're just a silly gimmick. Although again, occasionally we will fall into the silly game. Just because, you know, it's my job.
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+[14:06] But we try not to. Um, so pretty soon we're gonna be going out uh on our first break. So uh in advance of that, let's have a cheers to uh the barter house, uh a proud supporter of Heritage Radio Network. Don't forget to call in with your questions at 718-497-2128 uh to ask us anything you want about new cooking techniques, old cooking techniques, uh anything you want. Uh you were listening to cooking issues on the Heritage Radio Network.
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+[14:36] Yeah, yeah. When the body gets up from every time and you need some love from fascination when the body won't do what you want to do. And you don't do it on the know what you threw. What's that? What's that?
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+[15:08] You need some love when you test an easy What's that? What's that? Payback! Gotta go to Chato Gotta go to Chau Gotta go to Chico Gotta go to tension. And you've got a heat.
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+[15:51] Take off that pressure. Check off that break that eat. Take off that bread that the man. Welcome back. You're listening to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network.
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+[16:14] To call in and ask us a question, call in at 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. So before we left, we were talking about the fact that new techniques and technologies in the kitchen are used for a uh variety of reasons, and some of the best applications of them are actually ones where you wouldn't necessarily know anything is going on. I think one of the you know best things, uh best, you know, uh examples of that is is French fries. We did uh a many, many tests.
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+[16:43] How many did we do? A lot. About twenty. That was twenty on that one day. Yeah.
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+[16:48] We've done on that second day. We've done like probably 60, 60 in change, which is not a lot for you know for a commercial, you know, place like McDonald's who does, you know, thousands of tests, but you know, 60, 70 tests, making my interns do French fries over and over again again is kind of a pain in the butt. But what it's about is it shows a mindset. The problem is French fries are problematic, right? Here's why.
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+[17:10] You want French fries to be uh one, you want the outside to be crispy and crunchy, right? Uh you also want it to be not you it doesn't matter how much oil is actually in it, you just don't want it to taste greasy, right? So you want something that's crunchy, not greasy. You want the potato to actually taste like a potato, potato flavor, and have an actual potato texture that's nice on the inside. Not uh, not uh you know, not overcooked, not undercooked, not hollow.
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+[17:34] You want also the French fry to stay good when it's cold. I've repeatedly said a monkey can make a French fry that's good when it's hot. Same thing as a donut. A donut is a difficult problem. Any idiot can make a donut that's hot that tastes good because it's delicious when it's hot.
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+[17:50] The challenge is to make a fried food, donuts or french fries, whatever, that is good when it is cold. It's especially true with donuts because they're supposed to keep. But French fries, our task was I want the texture on the outside and the texture on the inside to be good right out of the fryer and to stay delicious even when that that thing is cold. And so uh, you know, m many of you out there who make French fries are familiar with the uh with the double frying technique, which is uh, you know, it's attributed to the uh to the Belgians, right? It's a double double fry technique where you fry once to to form the crust and to cook it, and then you fry it a second time to to make it crispy again.
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+[18:25] Uh this is kind of you know, that's like kindergarten French fry, as far as we're concerned. Like, you know, that's like that's like you know, not necessarily the you know the best way to do it. The best way to do it is to do an initial blanching step where you you kill the enzymes and cook the potatoes in a blanching step in water, salted water, which also flavors the potato, right? And then typically the old ways we would then dehydrate them a little bit, which is allows for the crust to get uh more uh it gets rid of some of the water, which means that it stays crunchier longer, then fry it once and then fry it twice again. So it's you know a several step process.
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+[18:57] But these make delicious fries. But the problem is with the drying step and with the blanching, a lot of times we would get hollow fries, or they wouldn't be consistent. So we we tried to figure out the absolute best best best way to do it. And uh, you know, do how long do you blanch it? You know, Heston Blumenthal, the famous chef in England says you should blanch for a long time till they till they break apart.
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+[19:14] So we ran all these tests. And if you go to cookingIssues.com, you can see what we ended up with. We ended up soaking the fries in an enzyme, a natural enzyme, not some sort of GMO nonsense, but uh an enzyme called uh pectinex SPL that you can also get from cookingissues.com. And what it does is it breaks down the pectin on the outside of the French fries and allows for the starch on the outside of the fry to swell very quickly and form a really nice crust. Uh it also means you don't really have to dry the fries after you blanch it.
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+[19:40] So you you soak it in this enzyme for a couple hours, blanch it in boiling salted water to make it taste delicious and get cooked, and three times uh two times fry after that. And you you have arguably the most delicious French fries uh that uh uh I've ever had. Uh what do you guys think about those fries? Uh they're delicious. I don't even like fries.
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+[19:57] Yeah. Okay, uh so it looks like we have a caller, right? We have a call? All right. Hello?
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+[20:03] Hi, how are you? All right. I'm good. Um I was wondering what the benefits are of uh chilling a drink over dry ice. Uh, okay.
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+[20:11] So this is an excellent question. Who am I speaking to? Uh this is Carolyn. I'm from Massachusetts. Massachusetts, all right.
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+[20:16] Well, first of all, uh, here's the things about about dry ice. Dry ice, uh, for those of you not in the know is solid carbon dioxide, right? It's a lot easier to obtain, a lot easier to store than liquid nitrogen, which is actually our preferred chilling uh method for for drinks and for many things. But hard to carry over a bridge. Very hard to carry over a bridge.
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+[20:35] I've done it. Uh so the uh dry ice you can get usually from an ice supply house or sometimes from welding supply shops. And uh when you chill a drink with dry ice, right, there's a couple problems. You don't want to serve someone little chips of dry ice because that's bad. Uh it's cold, it can burn your tongue.
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+[20:53] Uh it's it's you know it's not very good. So one of the one of the pitfalls is that you you don't want little pieces of dry ice. Now, a friend of mine, uh Tony Cigliaro in at Bar 69 Colbrook Row was making daiquaries where he dr put chunks of dry ice in a blender with a daiquiri mix and blended them. And they I have to say he got them to come out quite well, although the technique makes me a little bit nervous. The the other thing about it though is if you let it chill long enough, the drink is going to become slightly carbonated.
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+[21:18] So I wouldn't chill a drink with dry ice that uh you didn't want to have a little bit of bubbles in it because it's gonna get a little bit of bubbles in it when it when you have dry ice. But here's a really good technique for dry ice. Oh, uh and one of the prime advantages, obviously, is you make the drink, you get the dilution exactly the way you want it with water for a pre-batch drink at a party, let's say, right? And then now the dilution is perfect. Now your only job is to get it cold.
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+[21:40] Now you can do that in the freezer by putting it in the freezer, but if you put it in the freezer, then it's hard to have it out and it's gonna turn to crap while it's sitting on your counter because your guests are morons and they don't drink fast enough, right? Right? And so it's sitting there on the counter getting warm, and you're sitting there and you're you're you're you're you're pinching yourself and you know, kicking yourself and all this because you know the drink's getting too damn warm and there's not anything you can do about it, right? And that's kind of a torture, right? Am I right?
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+[22:03] Right. Like the party I went to last week. Yeah. Oh awful, yeah, right. And the drink is sitting there dying, dying on the counter because it's getting warm, and there's not a damn thing you can do about it unless you have dry ice.
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+[22:13] Now, you throw a chunk or two of dry ice in there. Don't go overboard, you don't want to freeze the drink, right? And and then it's just gonna sit at the bottom of a pitcher. Don't use something too wide, like you know when you were kids, you got the sherbet and the dry ice, right? That's a little bit too wide.
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+[22:25] Uh, you want to get kind of a narrow picture, just throw like you know, a couple rocks of dry ice in there, it lasts a long time. Dry ice is actually uh uh has a lot more cooling capacity than uh ice does, whereas liquid nitrogen actually doesn't. It's a lot colder, but liquid nitrogen's cooling capacity is somewhat similar to ice. Dry ice can chill for a long time. Throw a couple rocks of that in there, give it a stir.
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+[22:44] After about 10 minutes, 15 minutes, that drink is gonna be lightly carbonated and it's gonna stay cold the whole damn night. And then if you have a problem, like you're running out of dry ice, just crack off another little piece of dry ice and throw it in. Plus, it's you know it's got the good show with the mist, people like the show. And it's easily accessible. Yeah, it's easily accessible.
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+[22:59] It's really good technique, especially in summertime. You could have an ice cold, delicious drink. Even very traditional drinks, right? Like gin and tonics, uh for anyone who knows me knows that I I have a lot of gripes with gin tonics, right? Uh because uh they're usually either they're undercarbonated or they're uh they're not boozy enough.
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+[23:16] And then and it's supposed to be a summertime drink. They always turn to crap. Always turn to crap, right? Yeah, you have to drink them very quickly. Yeah, so even if you want to go completely traditional, you don't want to do anything, go buy your bottle of tonic water, buy your gin, uh get some lime, mix it up in a pitcher, right?
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+[23:33] A pitcher of gin and tonics. Put it, go out in your picnic bench or whatever, right? You know, throw a couple rocks of dry ice in there, that thing will stay carbonated and cold, and everyone can get shellacked on delicious summertime gin and tonics without having to worry about you know that last flat, nasty, warm sip of crap that they they they think they like it because the tastes are delicious, but they're just always executed poorly. Does that make sense? Oh, that's wonderful.
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+[23:56] Yeah, what's your favorite kind of gin? Oh, now that's a question. It's like asking me to choose which one of my children I love best. I'm kidding. Uh uh different gins are are are good for for for different purposes, and they're you know, my kind of uh, you know, uh I I like Hendrix for some applications.
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+[24:12] Um, you know, it's kind it kind of you know, it's it's pricey. I think uh that's my favorite. Yeah, uh I you know, uh a lot of times for mixing, my hand instinctively reaches for tank array. And I don't know whether that's because uh I don't know, it's because I don't know, just because it's uh it's nice high proof, it's easy to mix with. I but I know bartenders that are partial to you know any and any and every kind of kind of gin.
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+[24:35] My dad you was an old old school Bombay. He wasn't a sapphire guy, he was a uh you know, white label Bombay guy, and he that's actually where I got my love of tonic water and highly carbonated beverages was from sitting next to my dad. Well he he yeah, he would make a gin and tonic and I would have a just a lyman tonic, so you know, start me early. You gotta start your kids early. Give them tonic water early, get them started out.
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+[24:57] Oxley is also good. Uh yeah. What is it? Uh it is just messing with me. I have nothing I'm I I like Oxley.
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+[25:04] I like Oxley. Oxley's fine. Yeah. It's it's it's different. It's a different I don't think it's a traditional gin taste, but uh um a lot of people I know like beef eater.
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+[25:13] I mean, like it's but there's a lot of a lot of it's personal preference. I recommend going and tasting a lot of gins. If you if you have friends that don't like gin, then a good a good gateway gin is Plymouth because it's light on a lot of uh a a lot a lot of the botanical flavors, especially the juniper that people find objectionable in gin. And so you can you can kind of start them out with that. So that's why we call it the you know it's uh you know the gateway gin.
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+[25:33] Uh and it's it's available. Great. Well, thank you so much. No problem. No problem.
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+[25:38] Thanks for calling. Uh our first official call. That's awesome. Yeah. And I think we were able to help.
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+[25:44] See? Anyone out there who's listening, just know. Wait, but how much is is dry ice? Uh it depends. Uh I think that here in New York it's a it's a little more expensive.
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+[25:53] You actually had to buy it last time. How much was it? It was like I didn't buy it. They ordered it. Yeah, it's on the order of a couple dollars a pound, and you have to buy, I think, like uh twenty twenty pounds or something like that.
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+[26:04] So you're looking at like a forty dollar or something investment. But it's a small price to pay for a delicious beverage. Yeah, it comes wrapped in you know, at a party. I wouldn't say to keep it around all the time, but because you can you know, you can't store it in your fridge. It's sublim I mean if uh you can, it's sublimates, and so you lose it over time.
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+[26:22] There's no way to store it for long periods of time at your house. But you you show up with just like uh you know, like a a disposable styrofoam cooler or cooler, you put it in it'll last for for hours and hours and hours in fact it'll last for you know a day or more depending on how well you store it. And um you know it's it's it's pretty easy and I think especially applicable to you know summertime parties. What about the handling of dry ice? Well okay so dry ice um first thing you should not do uh is the first thing that many many people do which is take a chunk of dry ice put it in water seal it in a soda bottle and throw it and watch it explode.
+
+[26:55] This is not considered safe practice. Uh in fact uh the problem is when with CO2 you know dry ice it will it will uh if if sealed it'll do one of two things it will turn to a gas and it will slowly uh increase in pressure up to about eight hundred psi or more or explode whichever comes first usually explosion comes first so uh it's not a good idea to seal large quantities although uh no never mind it's not a good I it's not a good idea to to do that. Uh another thing is it's very easy to get uh burns uh cold burns from handling it for too long. Uh so you know while it's fun to sit there and play hot potato with dry ice uh you know I would uh I would use gloves when I handle it it's uh a lot safer that way than liquid nitrogen is in terms of uh you know liquid nitrogen there's always a danger that it's going to get underneath a glove and really damage you whereas dry ice is not not such a problem. I also if you're gonna chip it I would wear glasses safety glasses because you don't want little pieces of dry ice it's very hard and uh you don't want little pieces flying off and hitting you in the eye.
+
+[27:54] At least I don't want that. Yeah it's awkward. Yeah yeah it is awkward. I'm blind and frozen. Yeah uh yeah, it's not not such a good idea.
+
+[28:01] And you know, uh it would be a bad idea to move into a living room and chill it with dry ice because your house will fill with CO2. Um okay so uh we're coming up on our second commercial break. If you want to call in with problems, dry ice related or not, technical or not. For instance, let's say you want to talk about fish sauce. I love talking about fish sauce.
+
+[28:23] Uh our number here at Cooking Issues uh Heritage Radio is 718 497 2128. That's 718-497-2128. And you are listening to the Heritage Radio Network Cooking Issues. You feel good? Thanks so much, Bone Brother.
+
+[28:47] How you feel, mate? I feel all right. How you feel, fella? Hey Jure getting down. Look in Ha.
+
+[29:00] We're gonna have a bunk good time. We're gonna have a bunk good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We gotta take your high.
+
+[29:49] I'm gonna get that belly with a little horn over there. Brad, get it, take us out. You were listening to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network. Uh this is Dave Arnold and uh we are taking calls and fixing people's cooking issues. So uh who who do we have who do we have coming up here?
+
+[30:08] We have a call coming in. We have a call. Yeah. Hello? Dave.
+
+[30:16] Yeah? Thank you. Uh I really am excited to uh have you uh uh you know, at least live via this method. Well hopefully we can help we can help out. Who am I speaking with?
+
+[30:28] Uh John. Hey John, how you doing? So what do you want to talk about? Well, uh the the the two best things I bought for uh my kitchen this year, one was a cook tech. Uh uh uh uh I bought a cook technique.
+
+[30:42] Conduction unit yet? The induction unit. It's just terrific. Right. But the other thing I bought was a uh mini pack Torrey.
+
+[30:49] Oh, which one? The MVS 31. Okay. Uh let me just tell our users for for a quick second. So we're talking about an induction uh induction unit, which is basically it uh it's the most kind of uh it's the most efficient way really to cook.
+
+[31:02] It uses electricity, uh, but it instead of having a uh conduct conductively heat like make a lot of heat in your kitchen, it literally heats the pan by by using an oscillating uh oscillating magnetic electric magnetic field. And uh it's a fantastic way to cook. It's not as popular here as it is in Europe because our electricity is more expensive than our gas and because our chefs aren't used to it. The other the other piece of equipment we're talking about is a vacuum packing machine made by Mini Pack, and this particular one he's discussing, the M the M V S thirty one, is a really great size for uh the house. Uh and it it lets you do a lot of really fun things.
+
+[31:32] It's a really professional piece of equipment. Sorry, go ahead. And uh one of the great things about it, I mean, aside from trying to do sous vide or something like that, is the fact that uh, you know, just leftovers. Oh yeah. You c you And you know, like if you go to a a place like Costco that's selling huge packs of meat, you can repackage meat into uh uh usable sizes.
+
+[32:05] Uh but it that comes down I know on the uh on your uh your website you're gonna start uh doing a uh section on on vacuum sealing and vacuum packing. Yeah, we haven't done it yet just because I've been I've been busy, but it is the next in in this in the low temp sous vide list the vacuum packing is the next next one, yeah. Right. And I guess my question to you is how much uh how much are you extra how much air do you extract when you do it? You can go up to like I I guess like ninety-eight percent or something like that.
+
+[32:36] And I always try and get as much air and and uh uh the the the highest vacuum amount when I'm I'm sealing things. And I I know you've got a it can vary and you can you can seal them from like you know, zero to a hundred, but I I was just curious what what are your recommendations? Okay, so here here here's the base the basics of it. And um you can you can if you go on W.cooking issues dot com and search for uh I don't know what to search for, actually Nastasha will look it up like uh the on the back thing. We do we do a thing on how the texture of meat is affected by by vacuum.
+
+[33:10] Uh so you know how much vacuum you apply really depends on on what you're what you're trying to do. So if you're if you're trying to do texture modification, then you want to apply the heaviest vacuum vacuum possible because you want to get all the air out of your product before you do it. If you're if you're vacuuming to to pres like put something in the fridge or freezer, then you want a a heavy, heavy vacuum because you want to get all the oxygen out because that's going to be one of the prime reasons that things go bad, especially on leftovers, right? W warmed over flavor in meat. You know, you you can really prevent it by putting a good hard uh vacuum on.
+
+[33:39] Of course your product has to be really really cold before you vacuum it otherwise you're not going to be able to put a good a good seal on it. Now if you're going to cook the problem is is that uh on on red meat it's not as much of a of a big deal but on fish and on poultry, if you put a very hard vacuum on on on a product, uh I find it tends to change the the texture of the meat when it's cooked and and so the the the effect is uh for those of you that never vacuum before is that uh if you have a very high level of vacuum when you're when you're doing a piece of fish let's say your initial bite will be extremely juicy but all the water will kind of like rush out and then as you start chewing I think it gets more of a fibery taste and it turns almost uh how would you guys describe it like almost like uh it you you know you you if you've done it you know what I'm talking about it it the texture isn't good on the on the sixth and seventh chew let's say it's it's like putting a brick on it and just a normal uh uh normal manner of cooking it pushes all of the water out and so it just becomes a a grainy interior. Yeah I mean I'm not I I don't really understand the the I don't I haven't yet to my satisfaction figured out the actual mechanism of of what's happening. I just know from a practitioner standpoint that uh that this occurs. So what what we recommend is that if you're gonna bag fish uh you want to bag it uh at a low level of vacuum just enough to get the bag basically, you know, a good seal around the around the food.
+
+[35:03] And if you if if you're gonna bag poultry the same, I actually prefer to to do poultry w without vacuum in in in Ziplocks but poultry in a vacuum, if you're gonna do it, I would recommend doing a a low vacuum and just for yourself if you have the time. Sometime I would take uh like three identical pieces and seal one at at like ninety eight, one at ninety nine, and then one at full vac and cook them identically and then just ta taste the difference. Like next time you're gonna cook a lot of something and you have the time the time to do it, I would definitely do it. But y the vacuum machine that you have is a fantastic machine and you know I kinda wish I had that for my house because it's got a very good chamber size to uh you know to to machine size ratio. It's really a nice nice machine.
+
+[35:42] I mean and it does so many things so well and the fact that you can uh I I mean I've done blueberries uh last season that uh uh at low uh you know a low vac but it it preserves them you know without the ice and without all the uh other issues that uh uh you know come up when you try to f uh freeze anything. Oh yeah and you know another like easy application is you could portion out like let's say you if you're like me, you have two kids, you make a whole boatload of pasta for dinner and then you have a bunch left over and you want to be able to serve them for lunch or something like that. If you bag down the leftovers after they're done it makes it a a lot easier to reheat that stuff without either drying it out or ruining. I mean it it really is, you know it seems extravagant for the home, but it really you know it really has its uses. You know, I really like I almost think it's gonna be the the next big thing.
+
+[36:30] I hope so. You know that that it just if if somebody could teach how good vacuuming is you know i in and I understand food saver sort of guided the way for the you know the the whole consumer public to begin thinking about the stuff. But yeah it's really an amazing uh uh kitchen tool. Oh yeah. No, it's uh no no question that uh it we I I hope that they become more and more prevalent and maybe the price is coming down.
+
+[36:55] I know Mini Pac's working on it. I'm not a big fan of the food saver. I like the professional ones a lot better, but but I hope to get that next section of the primer out soon. Maybe if I have some time over the Fourth of July break, I'll I'll work on it. Nastash is laughing because she knows that I won't.
+
+[37:14] And now I see that uh uh uh they're com not them, but uh uh the uh poly science people are coming out with a uh new circulator. That's true. Yeah, it's good. Is it yeah it's slow? I I like I I like the Sous vide Supreme because it's easy and you can just sort of s stick it away.
+
+[37:37] But have you ever used a circulator? Like a regular You will love the let me tell you something. It's it it's just boatloads boatloads better. It's just you know, when you move from a non stirred bath to a stirred bath, plus the it's so much easier to put away. This thing's the size of like uh it's like you know, uh in between a stick blender and a regular blender.
+
+[37:56] It's you know, it's it's um yeah. I mean, I'm not uh I'm nothing against the Sous Vide Supreme. I've never cooked with it, but I mean I use circulated. It actually works it it it works very well and and uh I've just been uh I've been doing a lot of like uh uh lamb chops. Yeah.
+
+[38:13] And you just hit 'em right on when when you do it at like one forty for like an hour and you know, some minutes and then then uh sear 'em off. It just becomes so perfect. Get your hands on it. Just test it. Play with a circulator.
+
+[38:29] I guarantee I've never here's two things I've never heard someone say. I've never heard someone say, Hey, I regretted buying that Vitaprep blender, and I've never heard someone say I've regretted buying that circulator. I've just never heard it. Maybe maybe someone somewhere has said that, but I've never heard it. The uh Sous Vide Supreme, it doesn't actually have a stirred bath, right?
+
+[38:45] It's not stirred. No, it's an unstirred bath. It's not that it's not that it does a bad job. It's just to me it's big it's bigger than it needs to be in your kitchen and it doesn't it doesn't have circulation, so if you're doing a longer cooked item, you're gonna be probably be okay. But if you're doing shorter term items or if you're the stuff's coming in and out of the the bath a lot, uh I th you know I think you're I always think you're better off with circ circulation.
+
+[39:05] So it'd be like a one bag, one bag at a time. I mean the circulator is gonna be a little more money a little bit. I mean I think the Sou Viet Supreme is about a five hundred now, and the circulator is gonna come in just under eight. But you know, to me it's uh I mean it's easy for me to say because you know I you know I've had the equipment for a long time, but to for me it's another three hundred dollars well well spent. But there's nothing wrong with Sous V Supreme.
+
+[39:28] No, no, no, no. Yeah, and uh it holds product in there very well, and I've not had any real issues with it. I'm not saying anything negative about the Sous Vide Supreme. No, I nor am I. I I love it, but I'm you know, I may just get a second one just just for the hell of it.
+
+[39:41] Because you know, there are times that you want to do vegetables along with the meat. And at different different temperatures. So you know, I don't know if you have anyone in your house who i is gonna need some convincing that you need this, but you can tell them I said that the circulator's a good purchase. Now can can you sell me on the uh uh on on uh uh your what what was the one that you just got uh uh what the rotovap? Well if you have if you have twenty grand to spend, yeah, call Bukey and get one right away.
+
+[40:14] But like Anyway, listen, thanks for calling. I got someone else to come in, we're gonna run out of time. Thanks a lot. Very good. Thank you.
+
+[40:24] Did we lose our we lose our next caller or we still got I don't know. No? Oh, there's no one. Oh, there's no oh we had someone. Now I made now I I cut I cut this this poor guy off, John off, because I thought you said we had another guy coming in.
+
+[40:35] So Dave, if you're gonna actually have to cryovac some fish, what is the general rule of thumb for the percentage of vacuum? Fish? Uh you know, look, you want the minimum vacuum that that you can that you can get uh on fish and you want to bag fish with uh with oil or some other liquid so that it doesn't crush the portions down. I think a lot of people when they first get a vacuum machine they put a hard vac on fish and then they you know they ru they the portion looks insane. It looks like a pillow because they've crushed the bag around it.
+
+[41:01] And they're much better off, you know, doing a light vac. Uh you know, look I I love the vacuum machine, but but get the circulator first and then and then you know, play around. I think we have another call. Oh yeah? Mm-hmm.
+
+[41:13] It's John? No, no, no. Oh, the person came back. Hello? Hi.
+
+[41:17] Hi. Hi, I'm Janelle. Hey Janet. Hey, I have a question about brisket. Brisket, okay.
+
+[41:23] Every time I try to cook it, it comes out terrible. Uh is there a trick to to having it come out, you know, like you get it in a restaurant, you know, kind of melting in your mouth. How do you cook it? Um well I've tried grilling it and that hasn't worked because I haven't been able to maintain a low temperature on my grill. That's very difficult, yeah.
+
+[41:42] Yeah, so so I just the oven, you know, uh about two fifty for uh depending on how many pounds it is, uh you know, uh a long time. But um I don't know if I should sear it first or if there's like a a trick to it that I'm missing. Right. Yeah. Okay, so I'm dealing with a uh a fundamental deficit and that it's been so long since I've had to cook without a circulator.
+
+[42:05] That it's difficult. But um, yeah, so uh I would guess that uh I wonder whether they the the guys in Texas put an initial sear on it or not. Probably not. I don't know. Probably not.
+
+[42:17] Isn't it all about the Mayard? Well, it you know, with briskets all about okay, so a brisket is a tough cut of meat that has a lot of connective tissue, right? And so the the basic technique is you're gonna overcook the hell out of the brisket meat, but then over time you're gonna break down the collagen. And the collagen that you break down is gonna turn into gelatin, and that's gonna re-moisten the meat. So, you know, w one of the problems you might have had is that you might not have cooked it long enough for it to get remoist again, but you treat it basically like uh like a like a braise.
+
+[42:47] Um uh uh Cooks Illustrated, I believe, did a uh uh uh a brisket recipe for the house recently, but I I haven't I haven't uh looked at it. But in general, you're right, low and slow is is the way to go, but you have to give it enough time for the collagen to kind of convert. The commercial guys do it in very you know, in a very low heat in a in a pit, and the smoke gives it that characteristic smoke ring, and then also treats it at a fairly low temperature so that it's basically doing almost like like a comfee thing, but without the fat. It's it's going it's cooking at those kind of temperatures, at those low temperatures. And uh you could I mean if you braise it, it's not gonna taste like brisket, it's gonna taste like a braise.
+
+[43:26] It'll be delicious, but it won't be it won't be the same thing. Uh I feel I feel awful. You know what I'm gonna do? You know what I'm gonna do? Here's what I'm gonna do.
+
+[43:35] Go to okay, listen, in a week's time, give me a week. I'm gonna I'm gonna research this thing. Go to www.cooking issues.com, and someone will have posted a thread in the forum section. Go to the forums, and someone will have posted a section on it, and we'll we'll figure this problem out for you so that it doesn't happen to you again, okay? I've seen really great really great techniques with marination, like a twenty four hour marination before the actual cooking.
+
+[43:58] That'll keep it. Well, we're we're gonna start a discussion on the forums of cooking issues, and we're gonna get this tack down because we have some Texans who uh go to the blog, and I'm sure they will they will tell me that anything I say is preposterous and stupid, and having had the brisket they make down there, they do know how to make good brisket. Anyway, that's great. All right, thank you. Thank you very much.
+
+[44:17] Thanks for calling. All right, so back. Alright, so we we have someone else on the line here? All right, who do we got? What do we got?
+
+[44:23] Hello? Hello? Hello? Hi. Hi.
+
+[44:27] How are you doing? Hi, uh I have some questions. Is this who is this? Uh this is Weepop. Weepop.
+
+[44:37] Weepop Soupy Pot. Like, okay. People who are listening, this call is coming in live from Bangkok, Thailand. Wartor. This is this is this is Weepop Soupy Pot, one of the one of the great all-time people.
+
+[44:50] Uh a friend of cooking issues, uh, a friend of ours. And so Weepop, what is your question all the way from Asia? What is your question? Alright, so um I eat a lot of beef, right? And uh so be have been picking up in Thailand, and a lot of chefs are cooking tender Suvi tenderloin.
+
+[45:11] Mm-hmm. But uh I think I think um previous caller has kind of uh answered the question already, and and you've sort of half answered the question. Uh so why why does tenderloin become really fibrous and really mushy? Okay, tenderloin is a huge problem. As you know, um I can't believe Weepop was calling.
+
+[45:31] I'm so happy. Weepop, you I'm so happy. Anyway, uh so the uh tenderloin is is uh is an interesting case. Tenderloin uh wants to be cooked at extremely low temperatures because it doesn't have a lot of connective tissue. The more connective tissue that a piece of meat has, kind of the higher the temperature, the longer you need to cook it.
+
+[45:49] When you cook something at a low temperature for a long time, a lot of the initial effects of whether or not you're gonna overcook something happen right away. This is the hardest thing when you're learning to cook low temperature or sous vide to get wrap your head around is that you're no longer cooking in terms of uh just oh I'm gonna turn the temperature up to cook more. It's really temperature and time, and this stuff doesn't overcook just because you cook it longer, but you do get textural changes. So what happens in meat that is essentially devoid of connective tissue is that uh it gets not an overcooked, because it doesn't taste overcooked, but as you chew it, it tastes kind of fibery, as you said. And so uh with with tenderloin, you want to cook it at a at a low temperature at the low end of the scale.
+
+[46:29] When I say that, uh I'm sorry for all of you in America land, I think in Celsius, because I work at the French Culinary Institute. You want to cook it at like 544 Celsius, right around there. You don't want to go too much higher. And you want to put a sear on it, and you only want to cook it, a tenderloin for like 45 minutes. Now, the problem here is is that is that this isn't food code because you're not uh you're not right keeping it long enough.
+
+[46:50] Now it is kind of safe as long as you sear it, you kill all the bacteria on the outside. It actually is kind of safe because the inside of the muscle is sterile, but it's just not code. You know what I mean? But I don't know what the codes are in Thailand. Weepop is me.
+
+[47:04] We have no code. Oh, nice. So how you think it's perfect. Yeah, how are you doing over there in Thailand? How's how's everything going?
+
+[47:12] Is it Oh, um well, th things are going great. Uh we have new equipments in and um we're we're playing with food on this end. Well, get you know, ship us out there, ship us here. Bringing out a lot of stuff. I need to I need to you know I love you know I love all the Thai ingredients.
+
+[47:28] How come you don't get me shipped out there? We gotta go out to Thailand. Cooking issues has to Stasi, right? Cooking Issues has to go on the road to Thailand. Yes.
+
+[47:35] We pop is made me a happy man. The new uh David Thompson restaurant is gonna open up here in about a month's time. For those of you that don't know, he has the best cookbook on on Thai food in the English language, in my opinion. Didn't you buy something, Weepop recently? Oh yes, and and I bought a uh a secret royal Thai recipe that's uh supposedly not in print anymore, which um David Thompson is actually gonna use part of that book to um in to base his new menus on.
+
+[48:04] So you're gonna email us the recipe or what? I think I think it's in Thai. I would have to translate it. It's recipes from like 1908. Oh, nice.
+
+[48:13] Extremely old. Alrighty. Well, Weepop, thank you so much for calling. I can't wait till uh we can see you back in the States. We gotta get you back uh gotta get you back to the States, back stateside.
+
+[48:24] All right, thank you so much. Thank you. So uh so what are we doing now? We take if we haven't taken a break, we have to go to break. We have another caller?
+
+[48:32] No, you have another minute. We have another minute. All right, so this uh this then was the uh inaugural version of uh Cooking Issues, the show on Heritage Radio Network. Today, Cooking Issues was brought to you by the Butterhouse. Uh and the Butterhouse uh, you know, works with uh we we've polished off an entire bottle of one of their one of their family vineyards uh wines here, uh the uh Kerner Estate Chardonnay, and we appreciate that they are uh they are the sponsor of the show.
+
+[49:01] Uh thank you for listening and come back next Tuesday. Vicious Vicious Factor. Got me on this corner, and I don't know where I'm at.
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+[0:00] My name is McKenzie, and I started a GoFundMe for the adoptive mother of a nonverbal autistic child. The mother had lost her job because she wasn't able to find adequate care for this autistic child. So she really needed some help with living expenses, paying some back bills. So I launched a GoFundMe to help support them during this crisis. And we raised about $10,000 within just a couple of months.
+
+[0:32] I think that the surprising thing was by telling a clear story and just like really being very clear about what we needed. We had some really generous donations from people who are really moved by the situation that this family was struggling with. GoFundMe is the world's number one fundraising platform, trusted by over 200 million people. Start your GoFundMe today at GoFundMe.com. That's GoFundMe.com.
+
+[0:56] GoFundMe.com. This podcast is supported by GoFundMe. Oh, you did rep. Got me on the scroll. And I don't know where I'm going to be able to do.
+
+[1:22] Hello, you're listening to Dave Arnold on Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network, the show where you call in with your cooking issues and we try to solve them. Be they technical, uh be they not technical, we are going to work on them for you. Uh the call-in number here is 718-497-2128. That is 718-497-2128. And I'm told that for live call-ins, uh, we are authorized to give away uh heritage meat uh pork shops, Porter House Pork Shops.
+
+[1:52] So that's an incentive to call in. Please do call in with your questions. I'm here with uh Nastasha Lopez, also working at uh Cooking Issues. And uh we we actually have some email questions. If you want to email questions, email them to N Lopez at French Culinary.com.
+
+[2:09] Right. Okay. So uh let's start Nastasha with some questions that were emailed in from uh last week. Uh what what do we have here? Uh we have one from Mike who wants to know about uh curing a large cut of meat, I think, or pastrami.
+
+[2:25] All right, so uh yeah, so Mike is making pastrami uh with beef blade and uh he's been pumping it with uh liquids to to cure it. And he wants to maybe move to uh a vacuum machine. Now, some of the advantages of the vacuum machine is you don't have to use a lot of brine. You can go dryer uh with a dryer rub and cure quickly, and I can assure you that curing in a vacuum bag does work. Uh I apologize to Mike.
+
+[2:46] We we actually just got a vacuum marinator so that we can run a bunch of different vacuum tests and see uh exactly what the optimum vacuum level is. There's some disagreements. Some chefs I know when they put their uh they they'll use something like uh an instacure powder or Morton's tender quick, which is basically salt plus uh curing powder in it. Curing powder is is n nitrates, uh nitrites rather. Uh and uh, you know, these are these aren't some sort of crazy thing.
+
+[3:09] These have been used for hundreds of years, so I don't want anyone saying we're adding some sort of crazy newfangled, you know, artificial crap to it. Nitrites have been in cured meats for centuries and centuries, uh actually millennia in the form of impurities that are already naturally occurring in salt deposits around the world. Uh so that aside, it's a little uh tirade tangent for you. Uh but um if you just you know either use a brine or rub uh your cure onto the meat and pack it in a vacuum bag. I think you'll notice uh I usually use a high vacuum.
+
+[3:36] Some you know professionals say that you actually don't want a super high vacuum because it can actually at a certain point hinder the uh uh uh you know the penetration of the brine, but I haven't tested it yet, so I don't know. But you'll notice much, much quicker penetration uh in in a vacuum bag, much quicker. So for instance, I haven't done pastrami this way, but uh pork belly, uh you can get almost all the way through a pork belly overnight in uh in in a vacuum bag. Um so vacuum machine is definitely a great way to accelerate a cure. Now, from a taste standpoint on a long cured item, I would never use it to accelerate a cure on a long cooked uh long cured item rather, like uh like a ham, let's say, because uh a lot of the flavor of a ham, you know, I'm specifically talking about you know longer cured hams, uh, has to do with the length of time it takes for uh the curing to happen.
+
+[4:22] So in general, even though I'm a tech guy, uh things that are cured over a long period of time for flavor, I tend not to uh try to accelerate too much. Uh thanks, uh Mike. If that didn't answer your question, please you know post uh something on the forums at uh www.cookingissues.com forward slash forums or email us another question. Uh thank thanks for the question. And uh before I take the next question, I'd like to say that uh today's show is sponsored by the Hearst Ranch.
+
+[4:48] Hearst Ranch is the nation's largest single source supplier of free range, all natural, grass-fed and grass finished beef. Since 1865, the Hearst family has raised cattle on the rich, sustainable native grasslands of the central California coast. The result is beef with extraordinary flavor that's as memorable and as natural as a surrounding landscape. For more information, go to www.hurstranch.com. That's www.hurstranch.com.
+
+[5:12] Actually, I'd like to taste some of that stuff, huh? Yeah. Maybe they'll send us some. Yeah. Uh and again, the number to call in for this show is 718 497 2128.
+
+[5:22] Cooking issues at 718 497 2128. Alright, Nastasha, what's up next? We have another question from uh an email from Jason who's a health nut and is going to buy uh circulator from Polyscience. Wants to know the best way to cook a skinless chicken breast. Uh he wants to avoid butter, duck fat and use something like olive oil or coconut oil.
+
+[5:44] Uh should he bag it, should you brine it, bone off? What do you think? All right, so uh what is the name again? Jason. All right, Jason.
+
+[5:50] So uh you know you caught me at a little bit of a disadvantage because I almost never cook for health. I almost always cook for pure taste. So I you know I'm always a little bit out of sorts when uh when you know I have to comment on um nutrition. Uh however, uh if if you just want to know how to make a skinless chicken breast taste as good as you can, uh you've gone the right route with it with a circulator. Now here's the problem.
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+[6:11] If you vacuum a chicken breast uh at in in a vacuum bag and then circulate it, uh you can uh I would I would do it at 63 degrees, by the way. If that's a little too uh a standard chicken breast in a vacuum bag, uh 63 degrees for roughly uh an you know an hour or so is more than enough, that's a good way to go. If that's a little too underdone for you, uh I would up it to um maybe sixty-four. I wouldn't go above sixty-five. I know this runs counter to what you're taught your whole life, but uh trust me, try it uh and I think you'll you'll agree.
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+[6:40] Uh I tend not to like to vacuum the chicken because when you do, it tends to take on a canned chicken texture. It's almost too juicy. And when you bite into it, all the juices kind of flow out and uh and then the third and fourth chew are a little drier than I than I like. So I tend to uh put them into Ziploc bags and cook them that way. Oh, uh by the way, for anyone listening uh who doesn't know what the hell we're talking about, uh the the piece of equipment we're talking about is an immersion circulator.
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+[7:06] And an immersion circulator is basically just a piece of equipment that uh lets you keep very, very accurate uh water temperatures. And this allows you to cook things very, very accurately. So you never you never overcook them, you don't have to monitor them too much. It's very simple. Uh you know, food doesn't dry out.
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+[7:21] It's it's a great piece of equipment. And you know, if you look under uh low temperature and sous vide on www.cookingissues.com, we have enough information to choke you uh on uh emerging circulators if you want to know about it. So go go look at it there. But they're actually a fantastic piece of equipment that people are using more in their homes. Now, back to your question.
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+[7:39] I wouldn't vacuum bag them, even though I love vacuum machines. I would use uh Ziploc bags. Uh and the way you put it the reason is is because if if you don't put a vacuum on it, you're gonna get much more of a natural texture in the chicken breast. Now, you can use any liquid you want, really, you know, from chicken stock up to uh olive oil. I tend not to bag too much with uh my really flavorful olive oils because I think the taste interaction can be a little bit strange sometimes.
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+[8:00] But you know, you can use basically any anything you want. And you don't need that much of it in the bag, actually. So you just seal the bag up till it's almost done, and then the trick is dunking it under water. Uh and then the water basically displaces all the air so that you get a nice uh seal. Uh and it's very, very simple to do.
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+[8:17] There's there's uh, you know, not to pump the blog again, but on WW.cookingissues.com, there's a section on Ziploc bagging uh with step-by-step picture instructions on how to do a really good uh bagging job with a ziplock. And I I can I can make my Ziplocks very quickly look as good as a vacuum-packed job to you know the untrained eye. So I think that's really kind of the way the way to go. And you can, you know, season it normally. You don't really need to brine it, uh, except for the brine's gonna increase the salt level on the inside of the meat, which is gonna give you uh kind of probably a better taste and texture, but you don't need it from an overcooking standpoint because you're not gonna overcook it.
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+[8:50] Now, because you're not gonna have a lot of texture on this because it's a skinless chicken breast and it's gonna be somewhat soft, these preps are usually better, I think, kind of chopped up for use in salads. They're really good for cold preps uh the next day. Um, but you know, I tend not to eat skinless uh chicken on its own. But you know, this is a really good technique uh for a cold prep because when it cools down, it's still going to be delicious, it's not going to be dry at all. Uh and so to recap, 63 uh for about an hour, 64 maybe if you like it a little bit firmer.
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+[9:20] You think that that got it? Yeah, I think so. All right. Um we have another question. We're gonna wait to see if your friend Michael Isconis calls in.
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+[9:27] Oh, yes. Uh we have a question regarding uh a recipe from Michael Asconus, the pastry chef at La Bernadette. Uh and I was too stupid to uh text him beforehand to ask him the answer to the question. So we we have a text into him, so we're gonna handle that uh that question towards the uh end of the uh program. But since we were off last week, why don't you tell them how you spent your fourth of July and what you cooked?
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+[9:48] Ah, well, okay. So uh, you know, Fourth of July, I usually go either to Maine or to Cape Cod or some combination thereof. Um this year I went to Cape Cod, and and you know, as many of you know, Cape Cod in Massachusetts is you know kind of lobster country. The guys in Maine actually make fun of the Cape Cod lobsters. They say the main lobsters taste better than the Cape Cod lobsters, and the guys in Canada make fun of the main lobsters.
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+[10:10] So for the further north you go, the more they make fun of the southerly lobsters. Anyway, that's that's that's neither here nor there. But uh so anyway, so main lobsters, right? They have a there's a catch size limit. Like you can't catch lobsters that are too small, and you can't catch catch lobsters that are too big, and it's based on uh the measurement of the of the back shell.
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+[10:26] And that's a conservation uh method, uh, you know, effort, and uh uh it must be working because the the you know the lobster uh fishery in in Maine is actually still quite healthy. Uh now in Cape Cod, they don't have those kinds of limits on male lobsters. Male lobsters you can basically take any size you want if you dive for them. There's certain I think there's limits on how many you can take per day. You're not supposed to take big females because lobsters unlike most creatures as they get older and older and older they still bear more and not just the same amount of eggs more and more and more and more eggs.
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+[10:56] So an older lobster female lobster is much more valuable to uh the lobster population than than a young female lobster. So you shouldn't take the older the older females. But um the older males I kind of think are are fair game. Now a lot of people think lobsters big lobsters they that they taste bad and this is just because two problems one they cook them too long because they have to cook them a long time to to cook them through. And secondly they don't uh they don't serve them properly.
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+[11:22] Lobsters as they get older the muscle fibers get bigger and bigger and coarser and coarser. So if you were to bite into uh the lobster tail let's say of an old lobster it would taste kind of rubbery and tough now the trick with this is is to just slice the tail and meat like that into discs and then the fibers are already shortened and you're actually biting uh you know kind of with the grain and it breaks apart and you know it has a different texture from a young lobster tail but it's still you know very delicious. So uh you know a lot of people they don't kind of they don't believe this and you know usually the biggest lobster I'll cook is like six eight eight pounds which is still a monster by most standards. I mean uh you know you know most people are out there with their you know one two and three pound lobsters sissies and uh and so uh what I you know what we did is I went walked into this store in Truro mass and uh I was like yeah what kind of lobster you have what kind of you know what what kind of size lobster the guys 20 pounds it was 20 pounds 20 pound lobster I was like, geez, 20-pound lobster. I bought it, basically uh and a 20-pound lobster is really, really big lobster.
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+[12:22] And I thought if you could get any lobster to prove my point that big lobsters aren't any worse than small lobsters, that, you know, it's gonna be harder to get one bigger than about uh 20 pounds. Now the guy in the store told me that a 20 pound, this 20-pound lobster is like 130 years old. And you know, and then everyone else was like, oh my God, you're eating something that's 130 years old, it's older than anyone at the table, you know, that the lobster almost could have fought in the civil war, all this kind of thing. And but that's the nonsense. First of all, that's the lobster does not fight in the civil war.
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+[12:49] The lobster is sitting at the bottom of the ocean, you know, killing other lobsters when it can and hiding whenever it molts. You know, it's still just a lobster. It's still, you know, its brain function doesn't get any higher just because it's old, right? I mean, that's kind of thing. This kind of sentimental notion that just because it's old, you know, gooey duck clams can live to be uh 140, and uh, you know, people don't have that much simple well, I don't know anyone that has a lot of sympathy for the gooey duck.
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+[13:09] Anyway, anyway, that's aside the point. The fact of the matter is, this lobster wasn't actually 100 and uh 30 years old. Uh, you know, that's based on these kind of crazy formulas that they have for lobsters, uh, you know, that don't kind of fit older lobsters. It was probably, but I mean, it was old. I mean, it's be honest.
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+[13:24] It was probably like 60 or 70 years old, you know. So uh anyway, uh so here's what I did. I had the guy at the lobster store. He wanted to cook it for 45 minutes, which obviously would have made it, you know, inedible and terrible, and this is why people think big lobsters are bad. So instead, what I had him do is I had him steam it for uh eight minutes.
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+[13:40] This kills the lobster and it lets the meat separate from the shell. Then I got metal shears because the shell is so darn thick, and I cut the all the meat out of it, right? And then I sliced it thin and I ziploc bagged it uh with butter, and then I quick poached each individual slice. So each slice was cooked very quickly, which preserves the texture. The lobster that's cooked for too long gets mushy, and it was sliced properly so that when you chewed it, it wasn't gonna be tough.
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+[14:03] And it was like I think it was one of the best lobsters I've ever made. And it, you know, it certainly it fed our whole crew. Delicious. So anyway, that you can check out that post uh also, you know, pumping ourselves again, why not on www dot cooking issues dot com anyway uh I've been told that we're uh what are we we're going to break yeah we're gonna we're going out to break and we'll be right back with cooking issues funky sound nest hey listen to the man follow hey back cold bloody boom gotta get over before we go under beep up we gotta get over before we go under hey country it didn't say what you mean it just changed brand new funky president stock market going up jobs going down and no fucking job to be found uh keep going up change from my glass nah I drank from the paper didn't bag beep a beep we got get over listen to me let's get together and basic let's get together cut some land raise our food like the man save our money like the mob like this old job hello, God. Hello!
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+[15:50] Turtle! Get down and bring his load. Get sex to sex to get focus! And dang. Love the baby.
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+[16:00] Love it. Don't make it fun, but can you make it twice? I like it. Beep, beep, bum. We gotta get over before we go under.
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+[16:12] You are listening to Dave Arnold on Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network, where you call in and we answer your cooking issues. Uh please call in to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497 and 2128. Call in with any cooking related question you want, and you will get free delicious pork chops. Emailing won't get you the park.
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+[16:37] Yeah, email sorry folks. You know, email em no no uh no pork chops with uh with the emails. Um uh we we talked about uh lobster. I'm gonna I'm gonna wait a couple more minutes to see whether or not we get Michael Sconis to uh get him on the phone to talk to him about his recipe. Um the we're talking about the the question came from actually uh uh uh person uh who reads our blog and she it came from the person who sent us uh yeah mana yeah delicious mana uh candy which you can also read about uh uh on www.cooking issues.com pump pump pump.
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+[17:11] Okay. Uh so uh let's talk about cocktails for a minute while we're while we're waiting. Um next week, I guess uh I'm going off to New Orleans to go to the Tales of the Cocktail, which is a you know kind of a cocktail convention that they have in New Orleans every year, and you know, a lot of the great, you know, bar people go every year, and it's uh it's kind of a crazy debauched drink fest. It's in New Orleans in the middle of the summer because you know they're too cheap to have it in New Orleans any other time, and no one, no one wants to go to New Orleans, you know, in the middle of July, where it's a billion degrees and you know, a hundred percent humidity and sit in uh you know some of the best old bars in the country, unair conditioned, you know, drinking yourself into oblivion, but yet I do it I do it every year. Uh anyway, uh just kidding, it's great, great event.
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+[17:55] Um the um so this year I'm going uh and I'm part of a seminar called uh what's it called? The science of stirring. No, I did shaking last year. Uh you know, Evan Evan Clem, the you know, the kind of well-known bartender, he's kind of the you know the head of the BR guest, you know, mega restaurant chains bar program, and uh he pulls me in uh every year. Last year we did kind of the science behind shaking a cocktail, where we we actually came up with some interesting uh information, which is as far as the dilution of your cocktail uh is concerned, and as far as the temperature of your cocktail is concerned, uh really with as long as you're within reasonable limits, the way you shake the cocktail doesn't make a bit of difference really.
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+[18:36] Uh it it makes a definite difference on the also the ice type doesn't make as much difference as as you think. It makes a different difference uh difference on the texture of the drink, how it tastes, you know, the texture of it in your mouth. But in terms of temperature and dilution, it it doesn't really make that that much much of a difference. This year we're taking on uh stirring, and you'll have to uh you know we'll I'm I suppose I shouldn't post the answers before the seminar. That would mean people didn't have to go to the seminar.
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+[19:02] Yeah, right. So uh we'll be posting that stuff hopefully after next week after the after the seminar Tales of the Cocktail. But something I will talk about is uh dilution and pre-batching cocktails. So you know, a lot of times you have to make uh a cocktail and then you know b batch it all together. Let's say you're doing an event or a function or party, and you have to put all the cocktail together beforehand and then serve it out.
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+[19:25] Uh and a lot of people have kind of crazy ideas in their heads on how to figure out how much water to add to a pre-batch cocktail to uh to really get it to work properly when you when you put it in the fridge. Uh so let's pre bat by the way, pre-batch cocktails. It's very hard to pre-batch uh a shaking cocktail because uh you know you really do need to shake a shaking cocktail to get the texture right. We ran side by side blind taste tests of uh drinks that are uh should be shaken versus stirred, and uh and we we did we did them both shaken and stirred. So we did a daiquiri, which should be shaken, and we did you know a daiquiri stirred and a daiquiri shaken, blind with blindfolds on, and you easily tell the difference.
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+[20:05] And we also took drinks that should be stirred, like a Manhattan uh, we know, which is uh you know, whiskey, we used uh you know, rye whiskey, uh vermouth, uh some bitters. And uh you know, we we stirred some and shook some and tasted them blind, and huge huge difference. Uh now uh the shaking is hard to emulate in a pre batch cocktail unless you have liquid nitrogen. It turns out we've done some tests that if you if you chill a drink alimute that you've already diluted with liquid nitrogen, you can emulate the texture of a shaken drink pretty well. But uh stirred drinks uh are basically good if you just dilute them properly and then chill them because uh basically stirring is just a chilling and diluting process, it's not a texturizing process, and that's why that's why you use it for those drinks.
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+[20:47] You don't want to add a lot of extra texture in a stirred drink. So, you know, if you can, you choose a stirred drink to do your pre batched drinks with. And then here's how to determine how much how much water to add. Make your uh make a single drink, right? Make it.
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+[21:01] Uh using volume like you normally would with jiggers. Then uh weigh that on an accurate scale. Weigh the drink, write that number down, right? That's how much drink you're starting with. Now, uh add your ice, stir it, just like you're making a normal drink.
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+[21:14] Normal drink, right? Stir it, right? Then strain it. Now weigh how much the drink weighs now. That is uh that is the weight of the total cocktail.
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+[21:27] If you subtract the weight of the liquor that went into it, the liquor and ingredients that went into it from the final weight of the cocktail, you have basically how much water you should add, right? And that's really the best way to determine instead of guessing in your head 25%. And it also doesn't work to try and dilute it by just diluting it with water when it's at room temperature and then tasting it, because when you chill it, the balance is going to be off. So you really just want to make a drink the traditional way and then weigh how much water is in it. It's slightly more complicated than that because some of your liquor is actually held on the ice, and so you have to do a lot of fancy finagling.
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+[21:59] Uh but within two or three grams of uh water, uh it you know, you're gonna be pretty much right doing it the way the way I just told you. It seems complicated, but you're I think your your pre-batched drinks are gonna thank you for it. And you only need to do it once. If you write down the recipe, uh you can get that recipe right every time. You don't have to re-retest it every time.
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+[22:16] So it's a little bit uh of a pain in the butt, but well, well worthwhile, right? Right Snazzi? Yes. Yes, yes. Uh okay.
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+[22:26] So uh see that's uh pre batching, uh pre batching cocktails. What else should what else should we talk about? Let's talk about the meat that's coming in today. Oh my god, yeah. So okay, so that what's the name of the butcher again?
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+[22:35] Ooh, it's like Sissy. Sismer, yeah. Sidmer, yeah. In uh where are they at? Chicago?
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+[22:40] Yeah. So there's uh there's this butcher shop, and uh, you know, I'm I'm ruining the name, but it's like Sismer, C Z C Z what? C Z I M E R. Yeah, uh, and uh these guys have been around for decades and decades. I think they're, you know, a couple generations old the business now at this point, right?
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+[22:54] Right. Yeah. And uh they specialize in uh bizarre rare meats, right? And meats that you wouldn't normally get. Uh so what does that mean?
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+[22:59] I'm not talking, you know, buffalo, although they do have that. I'm talking beaver and lion. Uh, you know, uh what else? What else we get? Raccoon, bear, you know, things that you can't you can't normally get, and meats that you can't normally uh buy because you can't, you know, in this country, you can't buy meat that's been hunted by a hunter.
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+[23:22] You have to know a hunter who legally bags meat in order to get these kind of game meats. So before I get people writing in telling me I'm a horrible person for ordering lion meat to taste, uh, and by the way, we're gonna we're gonna taste a tiny piece of each one of them, then bag them and cook them sous vide because we'd think that these tough, you know, tough older meats are gonna be best that way. Anyway, so before you get angry at me uh about ordering these these meats, um, you should know kind of how it how it happens that these meats uh are sold. Uh it's not a a pretty story, but here's how it is people get lions as pets because they're crazy. Right?
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+[24:01] I mean, if they're insane, you know. So they get lions as pets, or they have lions and they use the lions as uh to breed, you know, like they're breeding lions either for I don't know for what, for Zeus, circuses, whatever, for other, you know, freak shows who want lions as pets, right? So they they breed them, and then once they're no longer um good breeders anymore, or if someone has a pet and they don't want that pet anymore, they give them to uh animal brokers. And uh, you know, just like stray cats, you know, you give a your stray cat and they get put down. You don't have to see it, you don't have to do it, but you basically know your cat's being put down.
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+[24:36] The same thing happens with a lion. So they get the lion, and if they can't sell it, which often they can't on an older lion, the lion is killed. The actual the most valuable part about is the skin. The skin is sold off for you know for fur, for lion fur for whatever, you know, whatever, making rugs, rugs, I guess, I don't know. But then the meat is basically a byproduct.
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+[24:56] So you know, rather than let it go to waste, uh, you know, these guys uh, you know, in Chicago uh buy, you know, the the meat from these uh exotic animal brokers and then freeze it and resell it. So you're you no one's going out and slaughtering lions for the purpose of food. These are you know animals that probably shouldn't have been in the situation that they were in, but not through the fault of the you know the butcher. Uh it's just you know, you know, once it once you've killed the animal, you might as well put it to use. So we're gonna taste uh all of these meats.
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+[25:28] What do we have coming in? We got we have lion, black bear, a whole raccoon, and two beaver tails. Two beaver tails. Uh I thought we also got some of the regular beav beaver meat, too. No, no.
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+[25:40] I thought we did. No. You sure? I'm pretty sure. Hmm.
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+[25:43] Beaver tail is an interesting one. They'll yak. Oh, yak, yes, yes. The Tibetan favorite yak. We'll get some yak milk cheese.
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+[25:49] We'll go get some yak milk cheese, and then we'll have you know, yak, yak, and yak. We'll get some yak butter and we'll make Tibetan Tibetan tea with yak butter floating on the top of it, which is actually wretched. I don't know how people drink that, but uh we'll make it, you know, in the sense of you know, we'll we want to be authentic. Authentic sous vide Tibetan dinner. Anyway, um Beaver's an interesting one because uh back in the day here's the thing the butcher laughed laughed his uh you know rear off because uh he says there's no meat on a beaver tail, and he always has people asking him to to to buy it to eat it, but he says there's basically no meat on it.
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+[26:20] So you know what are you gonna do? And um, you know, I think the reason most people call him, I don't know how much of a history buff he is, but for all you history buffs out there, um, you know, back in the day, there were many days, not just Fridays, when Catholics weren't allowed to eat uh meat. There were many, many, you know, fast days uh and Lenten days, and on those days you weren't allowed to eat meat. You could only eat fish, right? And so that you know that in fact that's my theory why in Italian uh recipes you'll find very few recipes that use dairy and uh fish, because it wasn't just meat you weren't allowed to have on a fast day, it was it was dairy.
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+[26:56] So you didn't cook with dairy, you didn't cook uh, I believe also eggs, and you didn't cook with meat. So these were f you know basically fish-based uh fish-based dishes, and this helped, you know, fuel the uh the dried stockfish uh the you know and the you know the dried cod um you know dried fish business for hundreds of years. Uh anyway, uh, you know, and there's all sorts of religious reasons why they thought meat inflamed the passions and it was good, etc. blah, blah, blah. So anyway, so uh beaver tail, because uh, you know, they had kind of you know, whack this is pre-Linnaeus, they had wacky, you know, ways of categorizing animals.
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+[27:28] So the the actual beaver was a uh an animal and you couldn't eat that on the fast days, but beaver tail was seen kind of like fish. And so you could eat beaver tail on a fast day, and so you actually get these recipes or these mentions anyway in medieval documents of beaver tail cooking beaver tail. And this has got to be why this guy gets the interest in it, because there's lots of uh history buffs out there who, you know, are are doing this kind of thing. Oddly also, whale clearly is not labeled as a meat, strangely, it was labeled as a fish. So if you could get a hold of some whale meat back in the day, I don't advocate that, but if you could get a hold of it, you could have that on a on a on a fast day uh as well.
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+[28:06] I believe. I'm not sure well how seals classified, but uh I don't know. Anyway, so we'll let you know how the uh the beaver tail and the lion is. The lion's actually supposedly interesting because if you think about it, there's no commercially raised meat that we have that uh comes from a carnivore. Uh and supposedly uh, you know, they have a completely different uh taste uh carnivores do.
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+[28:27] So we'll we'll let you know uh when that when that comes in. Uh what's going on, Sassy? We have two more minutes, and then uh we're trying to look up the tables from Douglas Baldwin. Okay, so uh I have a uh a question that came in. Who do you come in from?
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+[28:39] Caleb. Caleb, I have a question coming in from Caleb who's looking up uh you know Doug Douglas Baldwin. Douglas Baldwin has a on online a sous vide, and he just came out with uh a book on Sous vide cooking. And he's uh he's a mathematician. I believe he lives uh out in Colorado somewhere near Denver, uh, and he has a bunch of tables uh in there uh that allow you to calculate uh exactly when food's temperature, when food has come up to temperature when you're cooking it uh sous vide or low temperature in in in a circulating bath.
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+[29:10] And for you know, for those of you not not hip to the fact uh this is uh you know a huge way of cooking now, is that you'll put something in a bag and then put it in water and it very gently and very evenly heat heats food. But a lot of people when they're starting out, they worry a lot, lot, lot about whether or not the inside of their food has come up to temperature. Uh and so they'll do things like stick thermometers into it, which is I think really kind of fraught with problems because uh you have to get the thermometer in the right place, otherwise you don't get the right answer. Uh and you know, a lot of times you won't get it in the right place, and then you'll un undercook something. Um, you know, the thermometer can puncture the bag and you can get leaks, and this causes problems.
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+[29:46] I most often I think thermometers cause more problems uh than than they help. So uh Douglas Baldwin, being a mathematician, along with Nathan Mirvold, who's coming out with the uh the super book uh in December, I think, uh November, December, on cooking. Nathan Mirvol is a uh the m Microsoft guy who um you know uh has a huge passion for cooking and has probably one of the greatest kitchens in the world, is working with uh Chris Young, formerly the fat duck and fifteen other cooks on on making the world's kind of uh greatest technology cookbook uh you know coming to uh Amazon uh soon. I believe you can actually pre-order it now as of last week if you've got the got the money for it. And uh anyway, so uh Nathan Miravold on a on a website called e-gullet uh a number of years ago, a good number of years ago at this point, published a bunch of tables on uh how to figure out uh how long it would take food to get up to a certain temperature in a water bath based on certain dimensions.
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+[30:39] And those tables work and are probably easier to work out than a formula. I don't know uh the formula because we haven't been able to be able to find it yet, but I would definitely look up on e-gullet Nathan Mirvold's tables, which are gonna be much easier to use than a formula, unless you're trying to create your own Excel uh document. Um without having the formula in front of me, it's hard for me to tell exactly what he's doing because he could either be calculating the food based on the fact that it's treating it as a big slab and trying to heat through the slab, or he could be talking about cylinders that are heating through. Uh but I'll tell you this uh all formulas that his formula I'm pretty sure is right. I've seen it once and it it's and it's good, and he's a mathematician, he's he's good at that sort of thing.
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+[31:18] But any formula tells you X number of inches per uh X number of minutes per pound or X number of uh minutes per inch are are egregiously false because as as things get bigger, it's not linear how much longer it takes to cook it. I tend not to use these formulas. I tend to cook a couple of things and then store in my mind how big those things are and how long they took to cook, and then just do it that way. And I'm almost never uh, you know, wrong. So I know that an egg uh takes about uh 45 minutes to an hour to get all the way up to temperature.
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+[31:47] A rolled chicken, uh, you know, like a like a tochon thing ta takes uh like an hour. I know that uh 36 inch striped bass, the size I normally get takes three hours. You know, so you kind of build up this knowledge. Uh but um I'll try and post some information on that in the forum uh for you sometime this week. Sorry, I couldn't be more accurate on the on the answers.
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+[32:10] We should go to break. All right, so we're gonna go to our second break now. Uh please call in to uh claim your pork. You can ask anything, you know, the the price of eggs, although I don't know it right now. Uh uh anything like that at 718-497-2128.
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+[32:24] That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues. Don't play those blues so sad. Don't play the blues say magical land. Johnson. My love.
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+[33:41] Johnson. See my love six on me tonight. Like I've never been before. Johnson. Don't sing those blues so sad.
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+[34:27] He is Mr. Johnson. Don't play those blues so sad. Because before last girl. Uh call in your questions at seven one eight four nine seven two one two eight.
+
+[35:07] That's seven one eight four nine seven two one two eight. Call or gets free delicious pork chops. The pastry chef at Labernadan. And so I'm just going to look at the question from Kitchen Girl. Uh Kitchen Girl without the uh it's G uh by the way, if you're looking, she has a blog, if you're looking for a blog, it's Kitchen G R L Kitchen Girl.
+
+[35:31] Uh that's her that's her blog. And um she sent us some delicious, actually, before I go into a question, some mana candy. So uh did we talk about that last time, Sasdy? Mana? No, talk about yeah.
+
+[35:41] All right, so you know, mana uh is a r real interesting substance. It uh it it when I'm when I say mana, I mean like mana from heaven, like like in the Bible. Uh and uh, you know, for you know, my whole life, you know, this is something I've you know read about and known about, uh never knew was actually a real a real thing, a real product. Until uh this guy named uh um you know uh Baruch Shruf Sharifi, the uh saffron king, uh uh gave us some. He's like, here's mana.
+
+[36:10] I'm like, what? What the hell are you talking about, mana? And then I basically I did a a lot a lot of research. It turns out that mana isn't one thing, mana is a huge variety of different products. And in here here's what they all have in common.
+
+[36:21] One, they're sweet. Okay. Two, they appear as if from nowhere. Uh they you know, they're not they're not cultivated. They're they're wild things, they're providential.
+
+[36:30] They're uh, you know, they they're kind of their their bonuses. Uh and uh and so you know, those are basically the two main main criteria. Most of them are actually dried uh sap from trees. Uh, you know, probably you know, a lot of it hasn't been researched, actually, strangely, but uh little bugs will chew on the undersides of leaves, the sap will come out, then dry up, uh, and and that dried sap is mana, mixed mixed along with you know, little bits of twigs and leaves and uh other nonsense like that. Another way mana is made is is actually it's it's honeydew, which means that a bug bites into the leaf.
+
+[37:05] Uh and this is honeydew is you know what aphids make, you know, here in the States, and ants collect it. So what what honeydew is is a bug will bite a juicy leaf or stem of a plant, and the pressure of the sap is so uh strong compared to the bug that it literally shoots uh it shoots sap through the bug and out it's behind. Uh and that's honeydew. I mean it's gross to say it that way, but it's basically like force-pumped bug poop that then uh dries up on the outside into a delicious sweet substance. Uh anyway, so they go out into the desert.
+
+[37:39] Most of these manas happen in the Middle East, you know, kind of you know, uh, because it's dry enough there for these manas to form. And uh people will go out in the morning with twigs and beat on bushes and catch this mana that comes down uh you know from you know from the bushes and and use it. And uh there's dozens and dozens of different types, but there's a there's a candy that's been made uh, I guess, in you know, the entire that entire area, uh, you know, Iraq, Iran, uh, and uh called gaz in Iran. I forget what it's called in uh in in Iraq, but uh Kitchen Girl sent us some of this mana candy, which is basically just mana uh with a little bit, you know, more sugar and and and nuts in it. I forget whether they put egg whites in.
+
+[38:21] I have the ingredient list on the on the blog. Uh, but uh it's it's delicious and uh it's got a really unique texture that uh you know that's it's weird, it's kind of chewy and but it breaks, and it's very mana-like. Or you can get the straight mana, which is delicious, you know, uh mixed in in bourbon, uh which we which is incredibly delicious. You can get that from Saffron King. Uh he has a website, the Saffron King.
+
+[38:44] And this stuff is is crazy because that the not so much the mana candy, that didn't change as you as you bit at him uh all the time. That was more of a textural thing, the candy. Uh, but um the actual mana itself, every bite you take of it tastes a little bit different than the bite you had before, and different people have different perceptions of it. Uh I wrote an article in the uh New York Times on it, which uh you know you can you can search for and we we did a blog post on it. But anyway, it's a long way of saying kitchen girl sent us a question.
+
+[39:12] Uh you know, the she very kindly sent us the uh the mana, and then she she has a question. She's working on uh a pate de fouie recipe uh pat I never know how to pronounce it, whether it's patate fruit or pate fruit. I'm terrible at that. And and pastry chefs always laugh at me and correct me, as do all the Frenchies at the school, but you know, crap on them. Uh so anyway, so she's working on Michael Osconis's uh his recipe here, and uh basically what you do is is you're cooking the um fru uh fruit puree to a hundred uh and eighty degrees Fahrenheit uh uh with sugar, then you add pectin, sugar, and glucose syrup, and then bring it up to a higher temperature, 225 uh Fahrenheit, and then pour it into a silpat tray to set.
+
+[39:51] Um and she's having problems with her sugar uh with with the sorry, the fruit burning in the in the puree when she's doing it. Um and ph I don't disagree. I'm sure she is uh having some problems. She says that at 180 degrees Fahrenheit, her fruit is starting to brown and sometimes burn, uh, and that it only gets worse when she adds more sugar. And she's thinking that what's happening is her pan actually is getting too hot.
+
+[40:16] Uh so she's actually getting scorching because her pan is too hot. Uh now I don't have a lot of uh experience with this, so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna make some random stabs at ways to try and fix this, and then I'm actually going to try and get the actual answer, and I'll post it on in the forums at cookingissues.com. Um but um I guarantee that Michael uh is probably using an induction burner, which is going to be much more accurate as temperature control and so much less likely to scorch than if you're using an open flame burner uh and a pan, especially, you know, I don't know uh you know how good the temperature you know conduction is there, but um anyway, uh 225, you should actually be okay. It shouldn't actually burn if at 225 if you if you have good temperature control at the bottom of the pan. And I know this because uh I've I've been trying to test out um caramelization of uh of sugars and uh and fruits in pressure cookers at temperatures well in excess of that without uh burning.
+
+[41:18] Uh and so you should be able to do it. So I would uh I would use an induction pan that's got very accurate temperature control to prevent scorching and maybe go slow. Uh and you know she asks at the end, she has a circular immersion circulator, can she do it in a water bath? No, there's no way to get uh a water bath up to um up to 220 225 unless you put it under pressure, but then you're you're you're ruining the whole point of boiling it isn't the temperature actually. It's it's at a certain temperature you've gotten rid of enough water that when it cools down, it'll have enough solids.
+
+[41:51] So if you if you do something in a water bath, you're not boiling the water off. And any of these pectin and candy recipes with sugar are basically requiring that you remove a certain amount of water. And the way that you guarantee that you've removed it is by reaching a certain temperature at atmospheric pressure. Now, you could I've never tried this actually, you could maybe do a very low temperature pat fui in uh in uh in a in a rotor vap it's kind of an interesting question you know what I mean you like if you evaporate the water off of uh off of uh you know uh you know a a mixture under vacuum I should be able I've never thought of this before crap this might work yeah you like it like we could do a low temperature one of these because the the pectin needs to make it to a certain temperature to uh to work right so it needs to get up to at least regular boiling but I could take something to regular boiling then throw it in the in the roto vap I could set the roto vapid boiling right dissolve the pectin in it right and then and then evaporate off the water and I know exactly how much I know how much water because I can look up I know seriously like I can I I can figure out like what my finished total solid solids content is pectin is one of these a pectin's a hydrocolloid it's natural we've been using it for you know since there's been fruit we've been using pectin. I don't want to hear that we're chemicals or any crap like that.
+
+[43:09] Pectin's great but standard pectins that you use for these kinds of things pat fui they they uh first of all they need to be heated up uh to I think to boiling or roughly there close to there to to work properly but also they require two things acidity and high soluble solids. They need uh uh and what that means is something like sugar that's gonna bind all the water that's that that's left there so that the gel uh so that the pectin gels and forms a good uh thing that's why if you try to make a jelly and there's not enough acid it doesn't work and why you like you know you always add not just for flavor to make a tart but to make it work and why if you don't cook your jelly long enough it's not going to set right that's how pectin works. Caramels, on the other hand, are basically just solidifying sugar by removing water. Or, you know, f candies, rather, caramel, you're actually breaking the breaking the sugar down. Anyway, that's basically how it works.
+
+[43:55] But I should be able to do a a uh pectin, right, at a at a at a much lower temperature using a standard pectin and a rotovap, making an uncooked uh thing with traditional pectin. Maybe I'll try it. Of course, you know, you can use you can use different kinds of pectins and get the same uh effect without having to go to such high soluble solids using a kind of pectin called uh um L LMA Lomethoxyambidated pectin, which you know, uh whatever, but most people don't have access to that. Of course, most people don't have access to a roto vap either, so what the hell am I talking about? Uh okay.
+
+[44:25] We should tell people that you're teaching a class uh on the 28th for high-tech cocktails at the school if they're interested. I am yes, you are. When? The July twenty eighth. Okay, July twenty-eighth.
+
+[44:36] Uh Nils Noran, the head of uh the uh whole Megillah at the French Culinary Institute, and I uh are cooking a uh teaching a high-tech uh cocktail class for the public. Yeah, for the public. And basically what you do is you come to the French Culinary Institute and we'll do, you know, like two or two or three cocktails that you know that you can't possibly do at home using like a using a rotary evaporator and liquid nitrogen. Well, you could, I mean, if you're Nathan Miravold, you could do anything at home. But you know, uh we use uh most of you can't do at home.
+
+[45:06] And then we're gonna actually teach you some technology that you can use, like for instance, how to clarify lime juice in in 20 minutes. This is something we do. It's actually, you know, that technique is exactly one year one year old. Wow. Yeah, cool.
+
+[45:18] Uh anyway. So yeah, come uh look go to uh www.Frenchculinary.com and uh you can look up that class. Um you know that's uh we're actually headed back there. We got a lot of cocktail tests to do uh back at the at the French culinary. I'm slightly, I have to say, I'm slightly disappointed.
+
+[45:36] So am I that nobody called in to claim their pork. I enjoyed all your email questions. Uh please send more email questions. But if you can call in live, it gives me the opportunity to speak to you, which I enjoy. I'm you know, I like talking over the phone.
+
+[45:50] This is why I never answer emails, but I do speak over the phone if you can reach me. Uh so next week we're gonna be here live again. With Harold McGee. Warold McGee. Harold McGee will be our telephone guest.
+
+[46:00] He's not gonna be live in the studio, but he's gonna call in and he'll be here answering your questions as well. So if you don't care what I have to say about your questions, perhaps you will care about uh what Harold McGee has to say about your questions. And next week the say a number will be the same 718-497-2128. Uh Cooking Issues Today has been brought to you by the Hearst Ranch. Hearst Ranch is the nation's largest single source supplier of free range, all natural, grass fed, and grass finished beef.
+
+[46:25] I'm Dave Arnold, and this is Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network. Oh, you daddy got me on the score. And I don't know where I'm at.
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+[0:00] My name's McKenzie, and I started a GoFundMe for the adoptive mother of a nonverbal autistic child. The mother had lost her job because she wasn't able to find adequate care for this autistic child. So she really needed some help with living expenses, paying some back bills. So I launched a GoFundMe to help support them during this crisis. And we raised about $10,000 within just a couple of months.
+
+[0:32] I think that the surprising thing was by telling a clear story and just like really being very clear about what we needed. We had some really generous donations from people who are really moved by the situation that this family was struggling with. GoFundMe is the world's number one fundraising platform trusted by over 200 million people. Start your GoFundMe today at GoFundMe.com. That's GoFundMe.com.
+
+[0:56] GoFundMe.com. This podcast is supported by GoFundMe. Oh, you did. Got me on this corner. And I don't know where I'm at.
+
+[1:24] Supposed to meet my baby. Between it and it's late. You got my head all twisted. And I guess can't get it straight. You are listening to Cooking Issues.
+
+[1:41] I'm Dave Arnold. We're coming to you on the Heritage Radio Network. It's a show Cooking Issues, a show where you call in and we solve your cooking issues, related or not. Uh today, Cooking Issues is sponsored by Acme Smoked Fish, located in Greenpoint, Brooklyn. Acme has been a mainstay in New York's culinary landscape for over fifty-five years.
+
+[1:59] Using old world recipes, Acne produces the finest smoked salmon, whitefish, and sable that the Cerning Palets demand. For information on where to find Acme, Blue Hill Bay or Ruby Bay products, visit WW.acme Smokedfish.com. And they actually supply most of the most of the big places in the city. So even if you don't know you've had Acme, you've probably had Acme. Now, the number to call in to the radio show, we're here between 12 and 1245 every Tuesday, is 718 497 2128.
+
+[2:25] That's 718-497-2128. And we already have our first caller for the day. Hello? We got uh we got Jordan on the line. Yeah, I'm right here.
+
+[2:37] Hey, how are you doing? So what's your question? Hey, I'm doing pretty well. Um, so uh I want to throw a barbecue for my wife's birthday, and I've been experimenting with uh just basically trying to cook ribs in a sous vide. I've got a sous vide supreme.
+
+[2:55] Um I've been experimenting uh cooking the ribs in that. Um trying to get them to the point where they're like where they're fairly soft and yielding, and at the same time they'll still stay on the bone. Because my my plan is to basically keep them in the machine until guests arrive, and then I just want to finish them on the grill. Right. Right?
+
+[3:15] Right. That's uh that's a good call. May I just say before we go any further that you are in luck for being the first caller today? You have won some Heritage Foods Boneless Barbecue Riblets. So No kidding.
+
+[3:27] Yeah, no kidding. So that should go uh that should go uh pretty, you know, pretty well with your barbecue. But so the cool. Here's the thing. So uh typically when we're gonna do a rib, you can do a rib at any temperature between about fifty four four Celsius, which is rare.
+
+[3:41] I wouldn't recommend that because it's kind of uh weird. People aren't used to it. All the way up to a traditional temperature of like 80, but I would recommend something closer to 60. It's a little bit pink on the inside still, but it's uh you know it's it's really uh it's it's a good nice temperature. And the good thing about cooking uh this way and what we're talking about is low temperature cooking.
+
+[4:01] For those of you not aware what we're doing is we're sealing the food in a bag and we're using a water bath to very accurately keep the temperature and cook it for a long time. Now what are the advantages of doing it this way as opposed to traditional that we've talked about you know the advantage you want is that the meat's going to stay on the bone it's not going to shred and break apart. So you'll be able even though it's very tender and 60 I would do it for about 48 hours, 48 to 56 hours in that range. Okay that's that's the part I was having trouble with is I've got uh you know I was looking at some stuff from Baldwin and uh a couple other things online and everybody was saying oh yeah you know twelve to twenty four hours tops for the ribs and I just they weren't coming out where I wanted them at all. You said 60 Celsius.
+
+[4:41] 60, yeah what what what temperature were you about one about 140? Well 140. It was 60 is like a magic number because it's 140. It's easy to remember. What what what temperature were you using?
+
+[4:51] Uh I tried everything between uh about one thirty five to one fifty five. But the the factor that I was not getting right with the time to cook and I was afraid if I left it that long I was afraid if I left it uh you know forty eight hours or more I was concerned number one that I was gonna lose some structural integrity in the bone itself and and number two I was just I was concerned it just wasn't gonna stay on the bones. But you're saying that even at 48 hours it's gonna stick to the bone enough that I can toss it on the on the grill, it's not going to fall into the rack or anything. Absolutely. Let me let me put it to you this way, and uh we'll we'll we'll leave it leave it at this.
+
+[5:29] Right or wrong, after 24 hours it had the texture of skirt steak. Awesome. Yeah, right, is that right? After 24 hours, they should have had the texture right about of skirt stake, and after another twenty-four to thirty hours, it'll have the texture of short ribs. Okay, yeah, that's that's much closer to what I'm looking for.
+
+[5:45] Yeah. Alrighty, super. Look at uh stay on the line because we've got to figure out a way to get you these uh these boneless barbecue riblets, and thanks so much for calling in. I think we already have we already have another collar, so we're we're doing well. All right, so uh I have some questions about uh preserving cilantro.
+
+[6:03] Essentially, every single time I buy it, it seems to turn into an unusable pile of mush and all the aromatics just leave it pretty much right away. So I was wondering if there's a way to render it more stable. I don't have a roto vap or anything, so I'm looking for a more conventional method. Right. Cilantro actually, even in the rotovap when you wrote a vap, but it doesn't stay uh stable.
+
+[6:23] This is actually uh an interesting question. Uh the next segment we have, um Harold McGee's gonna be on. He's done a lot of uh tests with preserving uh things like herbs and berries. My guess the problem is is that my my guess is the way to to do it is gonna be like a quick blanch in shock, but that's probably not what you're what you're looking for. And and the other one would be to keep the moisture level not too high so it's not gonna rot, you know.
+
+[6:44] Uh right. Uh I do dry it. Yeah, oh yeah, so you're drying it still towel. Yeah, you dry it with a paper towel. I mean you could physically dry it, but it's not the same as fresh.
+
+[6:54] I'm gonna what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna defer this question and Nastash is gonna remind me to ask uh McGee. Uh m Nastasha's gonna ask me to remind McGee to to answer this question, but I would guess he's gonna he's gonna say something uh of the nature of making sure air can get to it in your fridge so it's not gonna turn bad, making sure that it's not wet when it goes in. He might say something even like allowing water to get to the stems, but I don't know. And he might suggest something like a blanch just to kill anything that's on it, which is what he does with berries. This is not my uh like uh not my exact area of expertise, but you're lucky that McGee's gonna be calling in today because it's right up his alley, so we'll make sure to ask him.
+
+[7:28] Okay, well actually, just beyond it, Ronnie. I mean, also the aromatics on a plant are just so fleeting. It seems like no matter what you do to it, that they're just gonna leave pretty much right away. I know it's true. You know, I've been doing a lot of experiments recently with uh, you know, when you when we rotovap, a lot of times I'll rotovap uh with for those of you who don't know, low temperature distillation, we do it in a rotor evaporator.
+
+[7:47] We do it with alcohol just because it's the only way to really lock down those aromatics, and when you do it with water, you really those aromatics they they leave very quickly. We've recently been doing experiments with uh freezing uh with liquid nitrogen to try and keep those aromatics and it works pretty well. Uh, but you know, I'm not ready to necessarily make any statements on it. Do you have liquid nitrogen lying around? Uh no, I don't, but that doesn't mean I couldn't get some.
+
+[8:10] Right. I mean you could try. I mean, like that that might be good, keeping it like ul ultra frozen like that. Now it's gonna go black as soon as it thaws out, unless you blanch it beforehand, but then you won't have the aromatic. So it you're always gonna try you're always gonna trade, because we do a lot of work with liquid nitrogen where we powder fresh herbs.
+
+[8:24] When you powder the fresh herbs, when they thaw even with liquid nitrogen, they go black because you've ruptured the uh uh when you blend them, you rush rupture the tissues, and so they they go black and you get that characteristic not so good aroma. So what we'll always do is blanch uh in boiling water and shock, and then that'll preserve it. But you're still you're gonna lose some of that. I mean, uh I haven't again I'll ask McGee this, but you know, it's very hard to get that fresh off of the plant kind of uh kind of a flavor. But yeah, this is well I'll bring up both of these things with McGee because I know he thinks a lot about this, specifically this problem.
+
+[8:55] Because especially because he grows his own stuff because he lives in California, you know. Right. So I apologize I'm gonna have to defer to later in the segment, but we'll get we'll get an answer for you. Is that sound good? Wait, who am I speaking to by the way?
+
+[9:04] Absolutely. My name's Chris. Hey Chris, thanks thanks for calling in. We'll get we'll we'll get some answers for you before the hours. Also I just had a quick question about uh sous vide coffee.
+
+[9:13] I've been just taking my coffee brows and putting them into a bag and basically doing a uh a high duration, low temperature. Right? Like around sixty-eight C. Similar to like Kyoto higher than like a cold coffee, higher than Kyoto style coffee. Yeah, much higher than a cold coffee, but you know, it sort of doesn't leach out all the astringency or anything like that.
+
+[9:32] Uh provided you don't do it for two days. Yeah, how how do you like it? Uh I like it a lot actually. You know, it seems to strike a good balance as far as having a lot of coffee solids in there versus a lot of the nasty stuff that people don't like. And then you coffee filter it and drink it, or what do you do?
+
+[9:49] Right, exactly. I just do a coarse filtration. Huh. Well we'll t we'll test that out. I've done the the cold and I've done a lot of work with uh you know with normal like espresso type stuff, but I've never done any kind of in-between work.
+
+[9:59] We've done it with tea. We've never done it with uh with coffee. That's interesting. You know, you should post something to uh our forums and let's get a discussion going on that and I'll I'll try and uh you know, we uh W dotcookingissues dot com forward slash forums. Post something like that, because uh you know I think that's interesting.
+
+[10:13] I'm sure a lot of the people uh you know who troll around uh will think that's interesting too. Maybe we can get something something started, huh? All right, great. Alright, cool. Thank thanks a lot for calling in.
+
+[10:23] We have another caller. We do? Yeah. Oh, hey, we have another caller. Great.
+
+[10:28] Hello. Hi. Hey, who am I speaking with? This is Nathan. Hey, Nathan.
+
+[10:33] Um, so I had a question. I I remember a post you made a couple couple months ago, I guess, on cooking issues about um how carbonation was perceived. And you mentioned sort of offhand that you tried stuff that was carbonated or not carbonated, but force forced gas with NO2. That you've tried dissolving in liquids and what that tasted like. Alright, well n uh, you know, uh N2O nitrous and CO2 are the two readily available gases that um that are soluble to a large degree in water.
+
+[11:06] Uh I don't know and also alcohol uh and also CO2 is very soluble in alcohol, uh and also I don't know about CO2, but N2O, I guess CO2 as well, is also soluble in liquid fats. So these are um you know they're very soluble, which is why you can put a lot of it in and why you can get a big effect. Other gases, you know, other ones that I know of that you know are food grade aren't as as soluble, so you're not gonna get the same kind of now you could definitely get some sort of maybe aroma or flavor out of putting some gases in, and some noxious gases can clearly go in. But I haven't experimented with any other gases because basically, you know, the you get the effect of carbonation, which is what I'm looking for out of the CO2, and then we use the the nitrous as a as kind of a balancing act. So if I want a lively beverage, I want a lot of bubbles in it, and the the the number of bubbles in it is determined by the total pressure dissolved gas in it because that's what's determining how fast it it's bubbling, right?
+
+[12:01] And also the bubble size for a given liquid and a bunch of other things. But uh if you added that much CO2, it would rip your face off. You know, your nose would be you know we've had I like actually overcarbonated things, but you know, but yeah, I like my face being ripped off. But the uh the the thing is is in order to make it a a really lively bellet beverage but more mellow, we we add the N2O. The side effect of the N2O is that it's sweet, right?
+
+[12:23] Now, there are situations, like I'm sure people have heard of uh beer gas. So beer gas is a mixture of CO2 and straight nitrogen, and the reason that they put the nitrogen in is because they want to keep their kegs at a high pressure so that they can push uh beer out at a reasonable rate. But they don't want to increase the bubble load by adding too much CO2. So they're adding a relatively insoluble gas, right? Nitrogen to it, so that it can uh so that it basically just adds extra pressure.
+
+[12:52] I believe also it's nitrogen and not CO2 that's in the Guinness widget that's sitting in the in the bottom of Guinness. And I think what's going on there is they're literally just forcing some bubbles into it to create kind of a creamy head, even though they're not increasing the actual total amount of CO2 in it, right? So there are reasons to use other other gases, but I don't know uh uh anything that would help necessarily in a in a carbonation setting. What do you have any uh ideas or things you want to try? No, I was just wondering because you said you know, CO2 is kind of sour tasting and two O is kind of sweet tasting if there were any other things that would sort of give you other flavors.
+
+[13:27] Well, poisonous, obviously. I mean I'm sure we could put some you know sulfur containing gases in that would dissolve in just fine, but it would make it taste god awful. You know what I mean? But uh but I haven't I haven't uh you know maybe someone will you know call in or post uh something they think is uh good to try, but they're they're the two readily available food grade gases that dissolve to uh a fairly uh large degree into into your you know, into beverages. So that those are the ones that's why we use them.
+
+[13:55] Gotcha, cool. All right, thank you very much. Thanks for calling in. All right. So uh that uh brings us uh pretty close.
+
+[14:02] We're I'm gonna talk about one thing before we go to our first break, but coming up on the next uh right after the next break, uh Harold McGee is gonna be here. He's gonna help us answer answer some questions. One thing I wanted to address, we had an email question. Oh, uh for your calls, by the way, please call in to 718-497-2128. That's uh 718-497-2128.
+
+[14:23] Uh so we had a really interesting uh question come in by email, and don't worry, all the email questions we'll get to, so don't worry if I'm not doing yours first. Um someone uh called in, uh Matt Matt, how you pronounce Matt's name? Hasa, has Hasa? Has uh uh he his restaurant group uh is using someone who grows their uh own cattle and there's using ultrasound to check the marbling of the meat while while they're alive. So basically you're taking a cow, they're walking, they're putting in an ultrasound uh on the cow, and they're trying to measure uh the fat content of the cow.
+
+[14:55] So the the the idea is trying to get a higher percentage of prime marbled uh meat than you uh otherwise would. And said he had never uh heard about this tech technique before and he wanted to uh know something about it, know about uh these guys running tests. Um this is uh kind of I don't know how well I don't know how often it's used nowadays, but using ultrasound to test the fat level of animals has a fairly long history. They've been doing it since at least uh the eighties. Um and there's a bunch of different ways.
+
+[15:23] So basically uh lean muscle meat and uh fat have uh different uh properties for ultrasound. The speed of ultrasound, uh ultrasound is just basically any uh sound wave faster than you can hear it uh than you can hear over about 20,000 uh cycles per second. And it can penetrate uh through tissue, which is why they use it to check for babies for ultrasounds and for medical diagnostics stuff. They can take pictures of it. But uh even simply without an image, uh, you can tell based on the speed that the ultrasound is going through, uh, whether it's going through more fat or more lean.
+
+[15:55] You could tell because fat also reflects ultrasounds in different ways. Uh, it also uh can I think shift the frequency as it goes through. So there's there's uh several different techniques they can use with ultrasounds to take a live animal uh in a very quick, you know, easy-to-do way out in the field with a with a piece of machinery and uh take a picture and figure out um figure out kind of uh a best guess as to what the uh tech you know the inside of the muscle is like in terms of its fat content. Uh and for in general, there's a lot of interesting work being done with ultrasounds, and a pay a review paper you might be interested in is ultrasonic innovations in the food industry from the laboratory to commercial productions uh by uh Alec uh Alex Patist et al. And that was in uh what journal?
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+[16:39] The Journal for Innovative Food Science and Emerging Technologies in July 2007. Uh thanks for calling in and please post a question to the blog on that. I'm interested in talking about ultrasound and meat quality more. And this is our first break. You're listening to cooking issues on Heritage Radio Network.
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+[16:56] Two. One, two, three. Just let me walk the new tier than you tell you that you should. Hello. Uh it's Dave Arnold.
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+[20:02] You are listening to Cooking Issues on Heritage Radio Network, the show where you call in with your cooking issues, and if we're lucky, we get to solve them. Our number here is 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. And we're coming to you live every Tuesday from 12 to 1245 Eastern Standard Time. And we have a real treat today because uh calling in as our call-in guest is Harold McGee.
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+[20:29] And Harold McGee, for those of you that don't know, there's probably a couple of you that don't know, uh, is the uh ultimate all-time master blaster of science as it relates to delicious things in the kitchen. So not industrial science, but the science of how to make things taste better. And he's calling in from San Francisco. Harold, you there? I am Dave.
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+[20:48] Hey, good to talk to you. How you doing? Likewise, pretty well, thanks. How about you? Yeah, I'm doing well, doing well.
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+[20:53] So uh actually, you know, uh Harold, we have a caller calling in right now, so you want to just uh you want to just take their question real quick and then we'll uh then we'll we'll hit some of the email questions we've got. Sure. Alrighty. So uh who do we have? We have Derek on the line.
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+[21:07] Hi, Dave. Hey. Great to talk to both of you. Um big fans, both both you, Dave and Harold. I I was thinking the other day, um, would it would you get more flavor out of your stocks if you started with distilled water because it tends to it pulls in stuff such as carbon dioxide, would it be more would it pull in more flavor from uh whatever meat or what you were using as the base?
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+[21:33] Do you think? Harold, what do you think? I I I I wouldn't think you get much of an effect because it's going to become non-distilled water pretty quick as soon as you put stuff into it. And you typically uh what do you think, Harold? Uh I agree completely.
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+[21:47] Yeah. There's uh I mean it's it's it's distilled and nice and pure, but the moment you put anything in it, it's not. And uh the difference between I think, you know, uh uh a few parts per million of of minerals in tap water and uh and distilled water by the time you've made the stock is not gonna be detectable. But I mean maybe it depends also on how hard your particular water is. I mean I there the the Jap the you know the Japanese chefs insist that there's a huge difference in combucks uh if if the water is excessively hard and they so they say that you know at the European water, it's hard for them to make a good uh combu stock, so they use uh bottled water.
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+[22:25] And of course, for beer brewing it's important, but I just I don't I don't know that for regular stock, right, Harold? I mean wouldn't you wouldn't you think? I mean, yeah, the thing about combu is that it it's so delicate and uh and you're d extracting for a relatively short period of time, you know, just a few minutes. And uh so I think uh, you know, something where you're throwing in meat bones and vegetables and cooking for hours, uh it's gonna be much less important. Of course, you know, if you do the experiment, you taste them blind and you, you know, get back to us, we'll post it because they you know there's no I always say that, you know, whatever I think is uh you know secondary to what you actually observe when you do it.
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+[23:06] Awesome. All right. Exactly. All right, thank well thanks so much uh for calling in. And uh but before we go to anyone else, Harold, d I don't know if you heard before we had someone calling in wanted to preserve the uh the kind of the aromatics in cilantro and I said that you might be the the best person to talk to about the best way to keep cilantro in top condition to try and make it smell like you just took it out of your garden.
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+[23:27] Do you have any tips on that? Boy it's it's tough with with fresh herbs because the those flavor compounds are really fugitive and the cells are delicate and when they dry out, you know everything gets scrambled up inside the cells and um i in the case of cilantro you know the the more that you uh beat it up, if you try to make a pesto for example, the flavor actually becomes much milder. And so what you want to do I think probably is um uh just dry it as gently as possible just to to minimize the damage to the cells right he says he was doing it with a paper towel but also I think people store it too tightly a wrap you almost want those like uh those bags that allow air to go through them right because I think he's also having loss in the refrigerator. I think he said they were turning brown and and kind of muddy you know what do you think? Uh-huh well yeah I think uh you know if if it's if it's a matter of keeping it alive, you know pres uh by preserving I thought you meant you know drying or something like that.
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+[24:28] Uh uh if you're if you just want to keep them alive, then yeah, what I would do is um uh you know, cut the cut the stems to get a fresh uh end, and then put them in a glass of water and then put a bag around the glass. Right. Uh you know, put a a rubber band around the bag and that gives you uh prevents the the cilantro from drying out in the refrigerator, keeps them cool, gives them a supply of water. Uh they're not gonna be happy in the dark, so that won't last forever, but it's better than nothing. And th and there you go, there's the answer from the source.
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+[25:01] We got another interesting one that I think is uh up your alley. Uh Harold, uh Jeff Saltz writes in, wrote to Nastasha, uh you know, we had take email questions as well. And says, if we can whip cream with sugar and we can whip egg yolks with sugar, then why can't we whip creme anglaise? And just to verify this morning before we came out to the show, I tried to whip some creme anglaise and indeed it does not whip. Um, I also know that there's some problems sometimes people have problems whipping uh cream even straight cream that's been heated.
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+[25:29] I mean what do you what do you think? What do you think's going on here? Well, in the case of the creme anglaise, uh it it's true that uh cream can be can be whipped and egg yolks and egg whites can both be whipped into a foam. Uh but that's true of the r raw versions of those things. Right.
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+[25:46] Creme anglaise has been cooked. So uh uh and in the case of cream, whipped cream, y it only whips if it's cold. So it's uh the the conditions aren't right, the proteins have been denatured and the temperature is wrong. But I didn't I mean I took the creme en glaze and cooled it down to like back to fridge temperature, still doesn't whip. There's some there's something about heating cream and then cooling it that may do you need to wait a long time.
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+[26:10] What are you disrupting in cream that stops it from whipping like that? Boy, uh with with cream b all by itself, I mean the in in a creme en glaze, of course, the cream is the the the surfaces of the uh oil droplets are gonna get coated by the egg proteins and by you know whatever else you might have in there, sugars in the way, so it's just gonna make it much more difficult. If in the case of just plain old cream, heating it and then cooling it back down offhand, I can't see why that would um uh make it harder to whip. Yeah, I mean I've never done the experiment myself, but I know people who have done it and said that they were able to do it, and I've known people who've done it and said that they weren't able to do it. So I don't know I don't I don't know where that where that is.
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+[26:52] But I know that uh the you know the the fat inside the the droplet takes a while to get organized again after it's been heated. You know, you heat it up, it becomes m molten inside, and then as you chill it down, it it begins to crystallize. And I think you know, maybe maybe it just takes a while for you to get that the optimum crystal structure so that when you whip it the the edges of the crystals break through the membrane and begin to stick to each other and and you get a good foam. That makes sense almost like the theory of uh aging uh ice cream base. Right.
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+[27:28] Yeah, yeah. All right, Jeff. Well, I hope that uh answers uh your question. Um let me see whether we have anything. Ah, here's one that uh Harold, you'll enjoy.
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+[27:37] Uh uh Val called in and said, uh I love the radio show. I'm traveling to Turkey in three weeks. I was wondering if you guys had any suggestions as to where I could find some good selep donderma flower in Turkey. And uh for those of you that know, like uh part of the current interest in uh Celep uh here in the United States is due to an article that uh Harold wrote uh a number of years ago in the New York Times on stretchy ice creams. Uh and Celep is an orchid powder uh that is uh available in Turkey but can't be exported because it's not that it's endangered, but they just don't have enough, they don't allow exports of it.
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+[28:13] And uh if you add this to ice cream and then beep the ice cream vigorously it forms a stretchy, stretchy ice cream. It's kind of unlike uh any other ice cream and it's a traditional uh kind of product over there but I don't know of any s I don't never been to Turkey. I've only ever had it smuggled back for me. What about you uh Harold do you know of any? I've never been to Turkey either so um yeah I don't I I really don't know.
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+[28:35] Yeah. There are a couple of uh people who um uh who blog who are who know the the Turkey in the Middle East in general really well and who blog and you might uh check their sites and ask them uh one of them is uh Nisa Helu, A N I S S A H E L O U. I forget the the uh the name of her site, but uh she knows that part of the world really really well and she could probably give you some good advice. Right and it's important to get a a good source because uh different salap powders are very different in how much of the active principle they have in it. And uh you know also like they sell some that's just meant for for drinks and it doesn't necessarily have the same uh capability to make uh ice cream stretchy.
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+[29:21] Um the two times I had it were smuggled back by uh interns and they just you know they packed it. Uh one time though the the my intern's mom got stopped in the airport for coming from Turkey with you know a vacuum bag thing of you know kind of powder and spent three hours talking to you know a very irate customers official about how it was not any sort of drug product that they were trying to bring back in and it didn't uh you know it it didn't make it in. But you know, I would get as much as you can as as you can. You're gonna use uh anywhere from half to one percent in your recipe, so that gives you any idea of how much you need to buy. And uh Val asked one more question.
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+[29:57] Uh, what would the results be with salap ice cream if you froze it and spun it in a Paco Jet? Alas, this will not work. Uh the Paco Jet, I've never had any luck trying to paco jet it. It needs to be manually beaten. After it's frozen, you need to manually freeze it, uh you know, freeze it and then manually beat it.
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+[30:12] And that's the only way to get that texture. Would you agree, Harold, or no? Yeah, that that's right. Paco Jet is is great for a lot of things, but it what it's basically doing is chopping the the mixture into tiny little bits, and that's the absolute reverse of what you want to do with uh salap ice cream. You want to create this uh this network like a gluten network in bread dough, and that's what gives gives it that wonderful stretchy quality.
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+[30:37] All right, all right. So we're about to go out to our second break. But before we do, I'm gonna give you the number to call in one more time. 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128.
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+[30:48] We're coming back with Harold McGee. This is cooking issues. And you're slipping you. You're more than alright. You know you're out of sight.
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+[31:11] You've got a shape, bigger mama. That's keep me up tight. Keep me up tight. You know you're out of sight. Hey, the way you do the thing you do, the way you kiss me too.
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+[31:41] The way you do the thing you do. The way you kiss the tea. You know you're out of sight. Oh! You got a sweet disposition.
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+[32:07] Oh, always right. You got a sweet disposition. You know you're always right. You know just what you're doing, baby. You know you're out of sight.
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+[32:26] Out. You're the hand. You saw him, baby. You are listening to Cooking Issues on Heritage Radio Network. I am Dave Arnold.
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+[32:43] I'm here in the studio with Nastasha Lopez. And on the telephone, we have Harold McGee. Uh so you have uh one last chance to call in at 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. And I'll sweeten up the pot.
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+[32:58] We will give away another packet of riblets if you call in. Uh anyway, so uh Harold, we have a couple more qu email questions we have to get through. Uh so why don't we take take care of those? Um we had someone call uh calling actually last week or right in last week who's interested in kind of Doug Bald Baldwin's uh formula for calculating the uh calculating when meat is gonna be done. And I know you've done uh some work on it, so Douglas Baldwin has this this kind of rather complex, well, not for him, because he's a math professor, but complex uh formula for determining uh the you know the heat of uh uh you know w when meat's gonna get to it.
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+[33:37] But uh w what do you what do you think is the best thing is I think the best thing is to just cook a couple of things and get a feel for the size of thing and then just go go that way. What do you think? Yeah I agree. It's uh it is true that you you can calculate uh how long it's gonna take for something to heat up in a water bath and uh it takes a lot longer than you think because the um the difference between the temperature of the bath and the temperature of the food is relatively small and that means that um you know there's there's not much of a uh and uh a push behind the heat on the outside get to the inside. So it it it takes takes quite a while but you know the the calculations great uh they're they can't account for all the variables that you're gonna encounter like variations in the the thickness of the meat and the uh you know the effect of the wrapping whether if if the if the wrap isn't isn't perfectly sealed if you've got a couple of bubbles here and there it's it's gonna slow things down.
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+[34:38] So I agree the best thing to do is just to have several packages and check every once in a while, give them a good good long time and maybe use the formula as uh as a guide. Yeah. But uh but test it. Yeah I've never had really much of a need to know exactly how long it's gonna take but uh but also Nathan Mirvold posted a bunch of things a number of years back on eGullit. Um oh I see we have another we have another caller.
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+[35:01] Uh who do we have on the line? Hello? Hello? Yeah, hi, how you doing? Um uh I'm a chef working uh on the East Coast and uh I have a couple of questions about Sue V cookery.
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+[35:14] Um specific situations we're in right now that we're trying to kind of fine tune. Right. I I don't want to mention anything specific 'cause we're still kind of operating under the radar. Right, right. Um so right now we're uh working with a couple of different cuts of meat.
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+[35:29] Um some have been really successful, some we're still trying to you know, they're very good, but they still could be a lot better. Right. Uh right now we're working with a uh a s a thick cut pork chop which is kind of cut from the shoulder end so it has a high fat content. And um, you know, we've tried cooking it at around fifty-two, fifty-four degrees Celsius or anywhere between four hours, twelve hours, up to twenty-four hours. And uh the problem is that you know the fat isn't breaking down in a in an appealing way.
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+[35:59] You know, we used to cook it conventionally in a more of a hot oven and we get like a nice sort of caramelization on the fat. Um and it would be very pal palatable. Right. And uh, you know, at those those low temperatures it would just kind of be like hammy and and you know, just ha not have a nice mouthfeel. So we upped the temp up to seventy degrees.
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+[36:17] Too high, yeah. And we ran it. Yeah. We ran it with a thermocoupler uh just to check the temp. We'd pull it at like fifty-four degrees.
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+[36:24] And that was better. Yeah, but still that's too high, right? Yeah. Exactly. Yeah, it was still a little like it got a little hammy.
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+[36:30] Um, you know, it wasn't perfect. Then we brought it down to sixty-four degrees. Um and that was kind of a nice, you know, medium. We're kinda happy with that, and we just basically would run it uh in the thermocoupler till we hit, you know, fifty four degrees Celsius. On the inside.
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+[36:44] So I just wonder if uh yeah, I was wondering if you had any comments on that or any ideas of directions we can go. So low temp fat's not gonna really render out when you're cooking uh low temp, and that's kind of one of the main things to work around when you're doing this kind of work. And in fact, you know, Harold will agree, like that's one of the things, you know, he you don't particularly like some of these dishes because we don't get things like the like the rendering of fat. But I'll g I'll give you uh uh agree, Harold or no. Yeah, yeah.
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+[37:09] Exactly. But you know, uh one technique you might want to look into. First of all, are you are you doing a pre-sear on your meat or no? We're not no, we haven't tried that yet. I would do a pre-sear on the meat that's gonna start getting the flavor going, and also you notice you're gonna pick up a lot more color a lot quicker uh on the finish.
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+[37:23] Uh right. But uh you might do something we we do called uh low temp for insurance purposes. And so what that is is you cook the meat to like a a medium, like uh you want the inside to be whatever you want to be, you know, fif fifty and sh fifty high fifties and change or like uh sixty somewhere in there, right? You cook it through, then you chill the whole thing down, then you throw it in a blazing hot oven, right? Now you're just focused on the external texture of the of the chop and and and you can pull it as soon as it looks good because the inside's already been cooked and it's gonna be warm enough.
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+[37:55] And so th this way you can serve something where you get a lot of the benefits, reproducibility, uh, you know, fairly quick turnaround time uh on on a pork chop uh that you would uh and get more of a traditional flavor out of it. Uh where you know, but still get some of the benefits of low temperature. And so th this works a lot on bigger bigger cuts or uh things like that where you basically you just want to ensure that the inside is done. So we call that kind of low temperature for insurance purposes. And so you might want to look into something like that.
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+[38:22] Like just cook it through to the lowest temperature you want, cool it down, and then you know, take it from normal in a in a hot, hot oven and just get that outside where you want it. And I think you might be happy with the results because a lot of times we want a more traditional tasting uh especially on something like a pork chop. What do you think, Harold? Yep. Sounds good.
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+[38:42] I have nothing to add. And and definitely like with the at the 64 degrees is actually it's it's great. It's really, really good. But we just, you know, we want to see if there's if we're missing anything and if we can try and take it to a higher level, which this sounds like a something we're definitely going to try. Yeah, I'd be I'd be careful with the l the lower temps like 52, 54, here's why.
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+[39:00] I mean, will you kill bacteria down there? Yeah, probably. But uh one of the issues is when you load up a circulator uh and you g hit those fairly low temperatures, if the circulators crowded at all, um sometimes um the the the pieces of meat that are near each other they'll be shielded from the temperature for long enough at those low temperatures that you'll get uh lactic acid bacteria growing in. So if you look in the s people who post on Sou vide you'll notice people saying, oh my thing smelled like sauerkraut, my thing smelled like blue cheese. But and it's because they're not killing the lactic acid bacteria fast enough.
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+[39:33] So when you're doing those low, low temperatures, I would recommend a quick dunk of the uh bag into um into um maybe into simmering water just to kill all the lactic acid bacteria that are on the outside and um and then uh and then and then go go from there is another thing if you're having that problem. I know that's some people are having that that that problem and just just real quick I know you guys are have a lot to cover, but do you have any sort of guideline basic temperatures that you work with uh in your laboratory just for for you know for poultry let's say game meat you know stuff that you know things like that. What's your braising temperature? What's your um I do a lot of braises at sixty um because the lower ones I think are you know people don't really people don't really uh they want their braises much lower than that and uh when I go higher than about sixty three I start feeling like I'm losing the advantage sixty three sixty four I start losing the advantages of low temperature so I tend to stay in that range. Uh but the the best we have cooking charts.
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+[40:32] If you go to cooking issues dot com and look up uh low low temp uh charts there's a chart that has basically all of our temperatures on it. Uh temperatures and times that we work with yeah and that's that's pretty that's pretty up to date. Um I I would I would check that out. And then let me let me just knock something out real quick Harold before because I want to talk to you something about 'cause Harold and I are back we're gonna go to Tales of the Cocktail. Oh wait we have another caller so I can't talk about Tails of the cocktail.
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+[40:57] All right we have another caller coming in Harold Okay. Hello? Okay. How you doing? How are you man?
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+[41:05] All right. I'm here to ask you a question. All righty. So I know you guys are talking sous V but I don't have a sous vide at home. Right.
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+[41:12] Uh but I do have an oven. Okay. So my entry my entree into kind of the technical side of cooking has been to kind of fudge it at home. Right. I'm trying to uh I brine my meat usually before I I roast it.
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+[41:26] So are you familiar with this River Cottage meat book? Yes. I have in the River Cottage Meat Book he'll talk about how he describes a two part roasting process. One at like four twenty five and then it comes down fifty seventy five degrees for like the longer roast to cook through. Right.
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+[41:44] You know to make the crust and then to cook the the meat through. Right. So but I I found at home after brining that it didn't work. What I've been doing is roasting a chicken the whole time at the same temperature. So I wanted to know what what you guys thought about that, about that two temperature versus one temperature and about that process 'cause I've been, you know, getting a good brown on the meat and cooking it all the way through with a lot, you know, the more uh technique I applied to it, the worse the results got.
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+[42:20] Harold, I'm gonna let you take this one because you focus a lot on these kinds of techniques specifically with ovens. So I'm gonna let you I'm gonna let you take this guy. Okay. Well um my feeling is that you can you can get a good result uh in a lot of different ways and um it just depends on on the details of what you do and and what you're looking for in the end. So the the high temp followed by low temp is uh you know pretty standard um way of doing things uh it gives you that initial blast of high temperature starts the browning on the surface and um then you turn the heat down to cook it through more gently uh if you left it at the high temperature too long then you'd end up overcooking the outside while the inside was still cooking through but with something like a chicken which is relatively small and which cooks relatively quickly um I uh I find that you can get good results uh with all sorts of techniques.
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+[43:18] You can stick it uh chicken in at five hundred degrees and uh it's done really quickly and it comes out pretty juicy because even though the outside temperature is so high uh the rapidity of the cooking means that you you end up with a you know reasonably uh juicy inside you can also cook um at a at a low temperature um when you say that you're cooking at the same temperature constantly is it is it like uh what 400 degrees, three seventy five four it's like three fifty three seventy five right in there. Yeah, yeah. And you're ample put it in for like forty five minutes how long with the browning that you get on the on the skin? It works because I think the brine, the brine and then the drying after the brine allows it to brown easier. Yeah, yeah.
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+[44:06] So you do take it out of the brine and you what do you do? Let it sit in the fridge for a day to to dry it. Exactly. I take I brine it overnight and then in the morning, you know, with my cereal, I'll take it out and dry it. Dry it, and when I come home, then make it for dinner.
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+[44:21] Yeah. So that's the the those are the little details that can make all the difference in the world. If you if you brine without the drying, then you're gonna end up with a soggy chicken at four hundred degrees or three seventy-five, and you really need that high temperature to bake out the the moisture and get the browning going. But if you've already pre-dried it, then that's not an issue. And then it forms that kind of pellicle, you know, and it gets brown there.
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+[44:45] The skin gets kind of clear and tacky. Mm-hmm. Um my other question to you is if you're cooking that at five hundred, really high, really fast, do you have to rest it then? Like is there a tin foil? Is there do you have to I mean 'cause how does it cook through that fast?
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+[45:05] Uh resting it does uh is a good idea, uh, and that's uh because the the outside parts of the of the bird have gotten pretty hot and it's a chance for the for the juices to um to kind of redistribute, you know. They're they've been squeezed out but they haven't exited the m the muscle completely, and so they can kind of settle in and find the find the dry spots and uh and and redistribute and give you something more evenly juicy. Okay. Well, thanks for you answered me. I was just feeling guilty because of the two different temperatures versus the one.
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+[45:40] I felt that somehow I was being unfaithful. And now I realize that the drying made all the difference. Yeah, yeah. I mean, uh you you only owe your faith to a delicious result. Exactly.
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+[45:53] So in the pudding. All right. Thanks for calling in. And we have very short amount of time. I gotta knock two things out with you, Harold.
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+[46:01] We got a follow-up, and this is right up your alley. Uh, Chris, who called in b uh before about the cilantro, just sent us a a text saying, uh, I realized I forgot to mention that I've had some luck preventing rot by washing with aqueous ozone. Uh it's really the stabilization of the flavor itself that I'm after, and he thinks that maybe it's decanal in it that he's in it, and they it's so quote, it's so damn fleeting, even in totally unrotten bunches. Anything to say about that, Herald. Uh well, um it just speaks to the uh the variability among uh among people and their sensitivity to these uh aroma compounds because they're there are people who who can't come within uh a mile of a bunch of cilantro without smelling the you know the tiniest quantities.
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+[46:46] So it it may just be that um uh he uh is uh he he loves the the aroma but is less sensitive to it, and so it's gonna be harder to find a bunch with with enough of the stuff to to really make an impact for him. All right, and then we we have one quick question that came in. I promised I'd get to all the early email ones. He uh Scott from your hometown, San Francisco, wants to know how to make a foam uh to put on top of his dirty martini with an olive brine based on a drink he had at the bazaar in uh Los Angeles, uh, and just wants to know some basic pointers. Can you do it with uh stuff from the supermarket?
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+[47:23] Yes, I would get yourself some uh I'll get yourself some some uh lethosin, the granulated kind, uh and and or Xanthan gum andor a combination. I would not add any more than about a quarter of a percent or so of uh Xanthan. You could actually add a little more but I wouldn't add much more uh and anything up to about half uh to three quarters of a percent of lecithin. Put a stick blender into the mixture, hold it at an angle so that the blade of the stick blender is going in and out of the uh liquid and that's going to cause the bubbling and frothing uh and you should be able to get uh a foam. If not just post a question to uh the forums or the cooking issues and uh and we'll answer it.
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+[48:02] Uh Harold and I are actually going to uh in a couple days actually going to both be in New Orleans. We're going to Tales of the Cocktail which is an event where Harold will be speaking with my good buddy uh Tony Canigliaro and good buddies and Audrey Saunders. And then um one more cocktail related thing uh if you want to come learn high-tech cocktail stuff including some home friendly things uh from uh me personally and Nils my my uh the head of the French culinary and my partner in crime here uh we're doing a class on June twenty eighth at the French culinary institute at six PM. Uh sadly we're out of time and I'm really upset because Harold I had a bunch of interesting stuff to talk to you about with uh new rotary evaporation breakthroughs that we made just yesterday but I guess that'll have to yeah well it turns out I think I might have a way to do really delicious distillations water based and then add it to alcohol quickly to try and keep the aroma in. I I found that like I can with liquid nitrogen I can uh I can basically uh even though water-based distillations are normally you know not so flavorful is so fleeting that if you if I'd use a cold finger with liquid nitrogen, do my distillation that way, and then immediately melt it into alcohol, that I get a very good result.
+
+[49:08] But I'm still working with it. So I was hoping to talk to you about that on the radio, but alas, we're out of time. So I hope, Harold, I hope you enjoyed calling in. I enjoyed having you. Hopefully you can come again.
+
+[49:19] Uh anyone who uh texted Nastasha a little bit later, I'm sorry we didn't get to your questions. We'll get to them next time. And you have been listening to uh Cooking Issues on Harris Radio Network brought to you by Acme Smoked Fish. Thank you. Oh, you didn't have to be a little bit of a little bit of a little bit of a little bit of a little bit of a little bit of a little bit of a little bit of a little bit of a little bit.
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+[0:21] You are listening to Cooking Issues coming to you live every Tuesday from noon to 1245 on the Heritage Radio Network. I am Dave Arnold, uh, the host of Cooking Issues. I'm here with Nastasha Lopez. Uh, we're from the French Culinary Institute. We're here to answer all of your cooking questions.
+
+[0:39] Call in at 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. For those of you that don't know us, we specialize in technical kinds of cooking questions, pieces of equipment, new techniques, new ingredients, but we uh we're interested in basically any food-related question you have. Uh today's show is brought to you by the Fairway Markets. No matter where you live in New York City, you're probably pretty close to a fairway market.
+
+[1:02] Uh I believe that uh we're actually being sponsored by Steve Jenkins from Fairway, who is uh one of the great cheesemongers in uh all of uh the country probably that Fairway has and has had for many, many years. An amazing selection of cheeses, uh great selection of meats and other produce. Fairway like no other market. Uh all right, Nastasha. So uh you want to start off before we answer any questions with uh kind of what we've been doing over the past week or so.
+
+[1:26] Well you've been gone for a while. Right. Well, I just got back from New Orleans. Uh New Orleans every year has this event called Tales of the Cocktail, where uh a good chunk of the uh bar industry in the United States heads down to New Orleans in the middle of uh summer when it's piss hot and humid and gets horribly, horribly drunk over the course of a couple of days, all in the interest of uh theoretically learning more about uh you know how to prepare fine drinks, and a lot about the history of fine drinks. I was down there doing a uh seminar called uh The Science of Stirring, which was a follow-up to our smash hit last year, The Science of Shaking.
+
+[1:59] Uh basically I was there with Evan Clem, who is the uh the uh the head of beverage for Be Our Guest. You know, they do those Caminos restaurants here in the city. He serves something like 8,000 margaritas on Cinco de Mayo. Um and uh Thomas Waugh from uh Death and Co. Uh, which was you know just I guess this year just won like best bar in the universe at Tales of the Cocktail or something like that, best cocktail that's in the universe, something like that.
+
+[2:22] Like a bunch of best in the universe kinds of things. Anyway, uh this year we were investigating how stirring uh, you know, what is the basic science behind stirring a cocktail? Um the interesting things about it, I'll talk about it for a minute, is uh last year when we did shaking, the fundamental uh thing we learned about shaking was that it really your shaking style doesn't make that much of a difference in terms of the temperature and the dilution of the drink when you're done. Also, the ice doesn't make that much of a difference, assuming there's not a lot of water on the ice doesn't make that much of a difference within reason. And that's good news for people, especially at home, because it means that they can make a decent quality drink without without being basically the yoda of the shake.
+
+[2:58] Uh, you know, as long as they you know do a relatively decent job and they shake, you know, for about you know twelve to fifteen seconds, they're gonna you know get uh fundamentally this similar dilution all you know every time they do it. Uh stirring, unfortunately, uh is a lot more a lot more complicated because stirring is not as efficient as uh shaking in in chilling. So that the first rule of all of cocktails, by the way, uh especially in bars where the ice that they're using in the bar is almost always right at the melting point. It's not from the freezer. And by the way, even if you use ice it's in a freezer, you think you're winning a lot because it's a lot colder than ice that's you know been sitting out.
+
+[3:34] Uh you don't actually win that much because uh ice doesn't have that much extra energy in it stored uh in the form of temperature. Most of it is given when it melts. It's the melting of ice that really does most of the chilling and dilution. So the fundamental rule of cocktails is there is no dilution without chilling, and there is no chilling without dilution. They're related.
+
+[3:54] Uh and so because stirring is less effective than shaking, a chilling, uh, it you actually um can alter the drink greatly by how much you you stir it. So while a cocktail, uh when you shake it only takes about 12-15 seconds to reach equilibrium, a stirred cocktail can take uh up to a minute or or longer. Um with that, that's what I was doing for the past week. And if you want to call in with any more questions about stirring, we're gonna put a blog post up pretty soon on you know, with all kinds of nice purdy charts and graphs on stirring fast, stirring slow, stirring with big eyes, stirring with crappy eyes, yada yada yada. Um anyway, so you know that's what we've been up to.
+
+[4:32] Uh now I'm gonna take some of the questions that we had emailed to us over the past week. Uh Michael Natkin, the author of Herbivoracious.com, which is a vegetarian recipe blog, asks a very interesting question. He says, Why do some things taste better the next day? Uh for instance, tomato sauces, lentil soup, and stews. Uh and he says the conventional wisdom is that the flavors marry uh when it's left overnight, but that doesn't really seem very well defined.
+
+[4:55] So, first of all, is this true? He asks, and if it is true, then you know why? Can we pinpoint anything specific uh on a from a chemical standpoint uh of why that's the case? Well, this is an extremely interesting question. Uh the short answer is yes, some foods do taste better uh you know after they've been sitting for a while, uh, and but some taste noticeably worse.
+
+[5:15] Um in the vegetable world, for instance, uh potatoes can uh when they're stored take on an off flavor that's you know perceived as kind of cardboard y and the same with with meats can take on, although you don't care because you're a vegetarian recipe blog, but uh certain meats can take on a flavor called warmed over flavor when they've been chilled and reheated. And what's happening in those cases when things taste bad is that uh there's an oxidation, a fat oxidation going on. So uh you know, there's certain you know uh polyunsaturated fats in there that are being um oxidized to create kind of these off cardboardy rancid warmed over flavors in in certain potatoes and in certain meats when they're uh reheated and stored in the presence of oxygen. And a vacuum bag can kind of ameliorate those problems. Now, the problem of things actually tasting better and changing is a lot more complicated than that.
+
+[6:06] So certain people certain foods that people think taste better when they're reheated, like for instance, pizza, if you reheat it properly, is because let's say the person who made it uh didn't have their dough uh balance quite right and water migrated to the crust, right? So now your crust is floppy. If you reheat it properly, you can recrisp the crust, and it's actually crisper than it used to be because there's less water in the crust, and so you can get a crisper crust. So certain in certain pizzas you can actually get a better product when you reheat it versus when you when you had it the first time. Uh lasagna is another thing pointed to often people say, well, lasagna tastes better.
+
+[6:39] Uh lasagna as it's cooling, the pasta presumably can then reabsorb more water than it can than it could. It absorbs water out of the sauce. The sauce becomes more concentrated. That's one effect, so it's gonna taste uh, you know, good upon reheating. A secondary effect with uh strong flavored sauces, uh like like tomato, like uh stews, like soups, um, is that these sauces have lots of high notes uh in the volatiles that kind of uh can stick out.
+
+[7:05] Now uh these volatiles can flash off when it's cooling and flash, you know, flash off again when it's when it's rewarming, and this can uh basically create an evening out effect of the flavor. But even more so as it's being stored in the uh in the fridge, the actual uh the actual levels of the different volatiles can change as they're de degraded or uh you know broken up or hydrolyzed in the food as it's being stored. And what's interesting is is that the breakdown of these vol these volatile compounds, a lot of them are created when the when the food is cooked, right? Uh and they react a different way when they're uh on the heat than they do when they're uh in the fridge. So you I you get a different kind of breakdown of these compounds, and then when you reheat it, you you break you're breaking more down again, and basically um you can cause a leveling off of these volatiles.
+
+[7:49] So there's uh and I was uh I was hard pressed this morning, I was looking to try and find some sp specific papers on it so I could cite some for you, but I couldn't. But this is my feeling, uh my memory, I should say, of of what's going on in the situation. Uh you know, that and that's aside from any actual kind of effect they have where you know maybe the spice didn't penetrate to the center of a bean, let's say, and when you let it sit overnight, it does. So there's many, many multiple uh effects uh going on. It's actually quite a complicated uh process, but yes, uh certain foods can taste better and certain foods can taste worse.
+
+[8:24] Um hopefully that uh answers that question. Uh I have another one. Uh someone says, uh my mom wants uh anonymous by the way, my mom wants to know if she can put a frozen piece of meat into a crock pot. Uh yes, yes, you can. So here's what happens, and I believe we have another question on freezing that I'm gonna deal with later, but freezing is fundamentally a dehydration technique.
+
+[8:46] So what happens is when water freezes, it freezes into uh into ice, it's pure water. So you have water that's bound in cells. That water basically crystallizes out and freezes at as crystals, okay? So the the ice uh that forms is basically removed from uh either between the cells or in the cells of your meat. It's fundamentally, or whatever product you're freezing.
+
+[9:10] It's fundamentally a dehydration process. Now, super rapid thawing in certain cases can prevent uh certain foods like meats that might reabsorb that liquid from reabsorbing them. Also, improperly frozen things that have a lot of damaged cells in them will not reabsorb the liquid, and you'll you can tell a good quality frozen product from a bad quality frozen product because you'll see a lot more what's called drip loss. You'll see a lot of liquid flowing out of the out of the you know product as it's thawing, right? That's a the hallmark of an improperly frozen thing.
+
+[9:41] Now, certain things you just can't help it, like berries, they're gonna that's gonna happen unless you have some very good freezing technology like liquid nitrogen. Um because the faster you freeze it, the less damage uh there is uh to what within reason. I mean, if you freeze it too fast, it turns brittle and shatters, but uh that's you know, that's another story. So now, when you're cooking something in a crock pot, right, a crock pot is uh uh fairly it's fairly gentle in that it doesn't scorch foods, but it's also a fairly high heat. You're gonna basically cook the heck out of that meat, and you're gonna cook it so long that you're gonna cook all that water out anyway.
+
+[10:13] Uh and you're you're getting the juiciness out of the sauce that it's cooking in, and you're getting the juiciness out of the gelatin that's cooking in. So there's there's absolutely no reason why you can't uh sear your meat from frozen if you want to do that and then throw it in a crock pot and go from there. You're gonna cook it for a long time. It's not gonna throw off your cooking times that much unless the meat is very, very thick. Uh, and so I think uh I think that's that's fine practice and it's definitely gonna save you, save you some time.
+
+[10:37] Another uh anonymous question uh came in. Uh I want to know if it's true that putting your face in front of a microwave is going to damage you. Well this is an interesting question. I've had this question asked uh many times and as someone that has done many unauthorized things to microwave ovens, I'm somewhat qualified to answer this question. Um you'll notice that the inside of your microwave is uh is all metal okay and that there's a shield a grate over the front door of the microwave that's also made out of metal and it's perforated with little holes.
+
+[11:05] Now those little holes are specifically designed to not allow microwaves through. So the m even though you can see the light the light is a very uh much uh shorter wavelength than uh microwaves so light can make it through without a problem but um uh the microwaves um cannot at all in fact even if those holes were a good bit larger like the size of a pencil you still wouldn't get appreciable radiation uh through that now if you have a uh a microwave microwaves have that that metal that metal perforated sheet and then they also have usually a plastic or glass sheet in front of that perforated sheet and what that's doing is that stops you from putting your eyes directly against that metal grate. If you put your eyes directly against that metal grate you will have some microwave energy that can make it through those little holes for very very short distances. I'm talking very short distances. So I do not recommend removing the metal grate and then putting your eyeballs against the uh against the uh the that perforated you know perforated sheet now it is true that certain microwaves if the latch fails or they have problems with their gasketing in their door material uh such that you know basically the microwaves can leak leak out and there's not a good uh grounding between uh all the different parts, then yes, you can get uh some leakage of microwaves.
+
+[12:21] They make basically microwave detectors, which are just meters that sense whether there's microwave radiation. You can walk around your your microwave and and see whether or not it's leaking. Uh you know, if you're paranoid about these things, you know, they're not that expensive. You can get one. Uh and you know, I used one once when I did a lot of modifications to a microwave and want to make sure I wasn't gonna turn anyone's eyeballs into uh, you know, poached eggs.
+
+[12:43] Because uh, you know, once the once the protein in your eyes goes white from being denatured, it's uh it's you know, end of story. And this actually used to happen. You know, microwaves are very similar to radar uh technology. In fact, the old story, my grandfather uh, you know, uh before he retired was a uh a radar technician, uh not technician, engineer, built radars, including including radars for Air Force jets uh back in the day. And the old story was that an engineer at Raytheon figured out it's probably apocryphal, but figured out the microwave oven because he was working on a radar uh unit and the uh and the candy bar in his uh pocket melted.
+
+[13:14] And he was uh you know, I was like, ah, that's interesting. Candy bar in my pocket melted, and then kind of it all all uh you know went from there. But I believe that there's also been cases, and I don't know whether it's just to scare the crap out of me, uh, that you know, people have stared down uh they know an old school radar, continuous way radar thing, and you know, been blinded and all this other stuff. So anyway, I hope that answers, I hope that answers your question. Uh okay.
+
+[13:36] Let's uh take one. We have two more minutes. Oh, we have two more minutes? All right, well, maybe I maybe I shouldn't take uh a complicated uh complicated question then before I uh before I go to break. Um I will say that I hope you call in.
+
+[13:51] Uh our number is 718 497 2128. That's 718 497 2128, or you can email Nastasha at Lopez dot N-A-S-T-A-S-S-I-A at gmail.com. Right. And we're gonna try to handle all of your cooking related questions. Uh when we get back, we'll answer some more questions and I will talk about the weird variety meats that we've been cooking.
+
+[14:14] Feeling good. You feel good? Thanks so much, Bone Brother. How you feel, mate? I'm feeling all right.
+
+[14:26] I don't want no people to know you're in here. How you feel, fella? Hey Jure getting down. Look at him. We're gonna have a bump good time.
+
+[14:40] We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. Take them up, friend. We gotta take high.
+
+[15:05] We gotta take high Brother. Yeah. Now I won't have everybody. Let's bread blow by two cores. And then I wanna wave me and let's go and do that with now.
+
+[15:23] Alright. I'm gonna get that belly with a little horn over there. This is Dave Arnold, and you're listening to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network. Call in with your cooking related questions, or you know, at this point, any questions. 718 497 2128.
+
+[15:41] That's 718 497 2128. Um okay, so we have a question in from uh Greg Kreckleberg, uh, and he asks actually some very complicated uh technical questions. He he wants to know uh the first question actually is a little easier to deal with. He says, What can a uh home cook do to freeze foods or sauces that will break when you freeze them? And he wants to know should I add gelatin, agar, starches, fats, blah, blah, blah.
+
+[16:08] And he liquid nitrogen is one of them. I like uh I like Greg that uh you're saying a home-friendly technique for doing this is to use liquid nitrogen. I really appreciate that, and it just shows how far we've come in uh in the past uh couple of years. Now liquid nitrogen probably actually uh it doesn't help freeze thaw stabilize some things, but I know that it does prevent um other things from getting um damaged by by freezing. I haven't done a lot of testing with liquid nitrogen free stawing.
+
+[16:35] Liquid nitrogen, liquid nitrogen will um preserve the quality, you're gonna get a lot less drip loss out of foods that are frozen with liquid nitrogen. If you're gonna freeze something with liquid nitrogen and you think it's gonna become too brittle, uh one way to do it best, and I I learned this from um you know uh someone who basically works in a cow semen uh calceman operation, uh you want to suspend the food above the liquid nitrogen, just above the liquid nitrogen for a number of minutes to pre-freeze it uh before it becomes hyper brittle, and then you can immerse it in the liquid nitrogen, and you're gonna get a uh a very uh you know nicely frozen product. But I assume that this is not what you mean. Uh uh things like so the question he's saying, should he add things to his uh his sauces uh like gelatin, agar, starches, and fats to to make them more free sauce stable. Um gelatin is not free sauce stable, uh, and neither is agar.
+
+[17:27] In fact, we use both of those things, uh we use the fact that they're not free sauce stable when we're clarifying uh juices. We basically freeze them and then when they thaw, they weep uh they weep fluid uh quite readily. And we use that fact to uh to clarify things. So those don't work. In general, what you want to add to to uh increase freeze thaw stability are uh thickeners.
+
+[17:50] Uh thickeners like uh locust bean gum, thickeners like xanthan gum. So uh something that basically holds together but uh is you know has a tendency to weep a little bit or or or break a little bit. You know, a little bit like under a percent of locust bean, um locust bean has to be heated, of course. Uh guar, but guar tastes kind of bad uh unless you have the really nice guar made by TIC gums, the flavor free guar. Um little bit of xanthan also acts as a stabilizer, it's gonna stop things from from weeping out.
+
+[18:21] There are starches that will will help. I don't um I don't happen to know what they are. I didn't have chance to research them before I before I came over. Um but uh in general you you move towards some sort of uh thickener to help stabilize uh situation, especially a gel. If you want to make a gel more free sauce stable, you're gonna use some sort of thickener.
+
+[18:41] Um like I say, like like leg locust bean, like um legwar like xanthan. Um, um let me think. I'm trying to see the other questions. I'm not exactly sure. He's saying um uh sauces like whole whole vegetables roasted, but I'm not exactly sure what the freeze saw problem with that is.
+
+[18:59] If it's weeping because of of texture uh being broken down, then the best way to make sure that you freeze and thaw those nicely is to use very, very rapid freezing. Uh and the best way to do that is of course liquid nitrogen. Barring that, you can make an ice slush with about 25% uh salt by weight with ice, make a slush with that, put your foods in a bag, and then immerse them in a slush, it's gonna freeze them very quickly with very small ice crystals, and it's going to uh preserve the flavor uh in those in those kinds of things. Now, uh he says on the flip side, what's a good way to thaw these ingredients? Thawing is actually a really interesting problem.
+
+[19:32] When you uh it's easier, believe this, it's easier to freeze something uh in quickly than it is to thaw, and here's why. Uh ice is actually a much better heat conductor than water. Much better. Uh the only reason you think water is a much better conductor of heat, right, is that uh um you can move around. Inside your food, the water can't move around, so it's not as good a conductor uh as um as uh as ice is.
+
+[20:01] So once something starts freezing in the freezer, the outside becomes ice, it now becomes a very good conductor. Now it's easier for the inside to freeze. When you're thawing, the outside uh thaws first, now it's water, now it's harder to conduct the heat in. It also takes more energy to heat ice than it does to heat water, and so it actually takes longer to uh to thaw something than it does to freeze it. If you want a speed thawing, obviously the best way to do it is to, if you want it to be fast, is to put it in a bag and then put it in uh running water.
+
+[20:33] Inside a bag in running water, ideal. It's gonna thaw it out, it's not gonna um it's gonna be fairly gentle, assuming you're gonna use it right away, uh, and it's going to be fairly quick. I mean, that's the fastest way um, you know, that we know of. I haven't experimented a lot. People used to sell thawing trays that were basically big blocks of aluminum, and that aluminum would just, you know, draw the heat away from the uh food.
+
+[20:55] But I don't know whether they're any better or worse than just putting something, probably worse, than just putting something in uh running water in uh inside of a bag because that way you're wicked wicking heat away from all sides, not just from the side with the with the metal block. Another question he has is uh he really loves habaneros, uh as do we, uh habanero peppers were until very recently the hottest peppers kind of uh known they've since been superseded by a couple other peppers called the ghost peppers but those peppers to my I've never I've never had a fresh ghost pepper but to me nothing beats the flavor uh and the amazing floral aroma of habanero peppers uh and Greg uh apparently agrees with this he says I do not like the heat they bring because most people are overwhelmed but uh but he loves the floral delicious floral aspects of the pepper. Now he says he's developed basically a surgical method for lowering the heat presumably by removing the uh the interior uh portion of the veins and seeds and the you know the very in interior portion of the um of the uh skin uh on the inside uh but he says it's moderately labor intensive and no one would do it in bulk and I agree that sounds like a huge pain in the butt and I know from a lot of experience with him in the kitchen that when you deal with them a lot everything gets contaminated and people get pissed and they start hacking and wheezing all over the kitchen because it's just just horrible. Could there be some low or mid temperature way to dissolve and move the capsacan out capsation is what makes things hot uh out of the picture while preserving uh the enchanting floral nature of the pepper. No vodka, no rotovap.
+
+[22:23] Okay, maybe vodka but still no rotovap. Well Greg you're killing me here because the rotovap is the primo way to to do this. I I don't know you might be able to do regular distillation without a rotovap. I mean you you could try um just uh macerating or or grinding the the uh peppers in vodka and then doing a simple stove top distillation with uh you know just with a a bowl of ice uh w you know uh y you look up anything on the any on the internet, any site on simple stovetop distillation, you just need a pot, some ice, and a bowl. Now, the the downside is is that this is gonna happen upwards of you know eighty degrees or so Celsius, whereas I can do it down at like forty Celsius.
+
+[23:09] Now, I I I don't know for a fact how much those amazing floral aromas are gonna be affected by that higher heat. But but uh I you know I would love it if you would try it and then and then tell us. Um I don't uh it just soaking in vodka, rem like that the vodka sucks that heat up. Now, it uh m perhaps the perhaps the alcohol preferentially soaks up the capsace, in which case you might be able to use the peppers slightly deheated after you do it, but I don't think you're going to preferentially take the capsacation as opposed to those floral aroma uh aromas. I think you're gonna lose a little bit of both.
+
+[23:43] Um he suggests maybe using peelzyme, which is an enzyme that we use to break down uh the tissue. Unfortunately, peelzyme uh breaks down the actual flesh tissue of peppers and turns them to mush. And so I don't think that uh that that's gonna help. Um I don't uh and he says possibly that in um in conjunction with uh an oleophilic, something that's going to bond to fats. That's a possibility.
+
+[24:08] Uh, but I just I haven't tested it, so I can't say whether it's whether it's gonna work or not, but it is something that I will look into more. And if you have any ideas, uh Greg, I encourage you to please uh write or or call us and and um give us some good ideas, right, Nastasha? That's something we're interested in. Um okay. Sorry, I couldn't be more help on that.
+
+[24:28] Here's another one I can't be more help on. Uh someone says, Do we have any comments on the aeropress type coffee filtration? Uh the aeropress uh type coffee maker, uh, and the question is like, how does it how what does it taste like? Uh the you know, how does it flare, you know, the flavor? What's the acid balancing, blah, blah, blah.
+
+[24:44] Uh unfortunately, uh Paul wrote in that. Unfortunately, Paul, uh, I have not used uh the AeroPress. Um I have good friends who've had a done a lot of work with them. I have some calls into Jeffrey Steingarden, but I he's even harder to get in touch with than I am. He's like the only person in the world harder to get in touch with.
+
+[25:00] He answers his phone less than I do. And uh I couldn't uh he's a big advocate, so I wanted to ask what what he thought. For those of you that don't know the Aero Press, it was designed I think by the same what's the name of that frisbee Nastasha with the hole in the middle that that flies for like a million yards, the Arabie, is that it? I don't know. Araby?
+
+[25:17] You know what I'm talking about? Anyway, I think it was designed by the same um same fellow that did the Arabie, I believe. And uh it's basically a cylinder with a filter in it and a piston. You put the coffee in the hot water, you push the piston down, it provides some amount of pressure and then forces it out. And the the main thing is it's supposed to make delicious coffee and it's supposed to it's cheap, and you can carry it wherever wherever you want to go.
+
+[25:42] Um the reason I haven't experimented with it is that uh although it is a pressurized coffee system, it doesn't generate 135 or so PSI, like you know, eight nine uh bar, uh, which is what you need to make espresso. And it's just not because I'm uh snob at all, but I uh basically I only drink espresso and I drink like a billion cup I drink a billion cups of it a day. And for years I've had uh just because I'm like this, I went on eBay and actually to a restaurant auction. I went to a restaurant auction once and I bought a uh the first espresso machine I owned was a two-group ranchillio restaurant machine from a restaurant auction where the restaurant has been shut down by the uh drug enforcement agency because they were also dealing drugs out of the restaurant. When the drug enforcement agency shuts down your restaurant, what they do is they walk up and they put a padlock on the door and the f and then they unplug all the lights, right?
+
+[26:29] Uh well, actually they just flip the circuit breaker and then all the food just sits there and rots in your fridge until they get around to figuring out what the hell they're gonna do. Well, this place was in uh somewhere, you know, in the in the 150s, uh 160s somewhere near Broadway, and uh they just let it rot for like a year or you know, eight months a year, and then they had a restaurant auction. And so uh, you know, I showed up at the restaurant auction, and when they opened the door, the aroma was so over the st aroma. The miasmal stench was so overwhelming that uh, you know, literally like like seasoned veterans of restaurants were running out of there. And to me, I was like, hey, this is great news.
+
+[27:07] This is awesome because what it means is is that no one is gonna bid on this crap. I mean, no one is gonna bid on this crap because no one can even stand in the room with this, you know, like like all the Cuban sandwich rolls were still there all desiccated and half eaten. Like you you would have like a a bun and then a mouse that was eating the bun that had died, and then the mouse had in turn been eaten by whatever else was in there. It was horrible, horrible. But tell them how you got it home.
+
+[27:31] Well, I uh another guy was being there, another guy who who he like, you know, he actually like literally was a crack dealer at one point and decided he was gonna, you know, go legit and had uh started a uh was starting a downtown restaurant, you know, like a food cart, and he was buying stuff and you know I I paid him twenty dollars to drive me home, and then uh I left the espresso pump in his car and I had to go out and find him, and he was like, Who the hell's calling me? Anyway, whatever. I got this machine for almost for nothing, but I I had to disassemble it and boil it uh every single port of it and reconstruct it. I learned a lot about espresso machines. But though the that's a long way of saying that I've had a commercial espresso machine for a long time, and so I haven't necessarily investigated other techniques for making coffee, and I apologize that I have a very uh small amount of knowledge on the Aeropress coffee system.
+
+[28:17] But from what I hear, it's uh it's it's pretty good. That's what I hear. And so if I I'm sure that uh and you you now made me feel bad that I haven't experimented with it, and I don't know what it costs. It costs some like minimal amount of money, I think. So now maybe I'll just go buy one and play with it, or at least maybe get uh Steingarden to call me back and have him tell me why it's why it's so great.
+
+[28:37] Uh next next segment, I promise I will talk about the weird meats that we ate. You're listening to Cooking Issues on uh Heritage Radio Network. Call in your questions at 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128, and this is Cooking Issues, and I am David Arnold. When I have a homeless money, I promise I would think to stay real straight and sober.
+
+[29:38] I swore I wouldn't drink bed whisking. Made me a lose my habit. Give the boss slip. Before the man was over. I started in the sick.
+
+[30:17] You are listening to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network. I am Dave Arnold, and we are here to answer your cooking issues, whether they come in via email or via telephone. 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. So we ran an interesting experiment last week where we ordered a whole bunch of odd meats from a butcher in Chicago.
+
+[30:44] I'm gonna I'm gonna ruin the name. What is it, Nastasha? It's like Zy Zymer Zy Zymer's C Z I M E R. Okay. And so these guys for generations, I think since you know the uh the teens, since like 1919, 1990s, so 1914, something like that.
+
+[31:02] These guys have been uh dealing in uh kind of odd, odd meats. Now, one of the strange things, not strange things, uh, America used to be known as kind of the game uh the game food capital of the world. We just had so much of it uh, you know, uh early on, uh, and all of it was legal to sell. So if you go back and you look in um on the web at something called the the markets assistant, and it was in basically a guide to the New York markets that was written um both before and after and around the Civil War. Uh, you know, you'll see, and you it's available on Google Books, and the guy at the front looks like Bill the Butcher Pool from uh from uh gangs in New York.
+
+[31:37] It's kinda cool. But the list of foods that was available to purchase in the markets, even in New York City, was shattering, amazing. I mean, just the the the different types of meats, and the reason was is that anything that you killed, uh shot, you know, caught, whatever, was fair game. There were no rules, there were no regulations. Uh a combination of things has caused that to not be the case anymore.
+
+[31:57] One is sanitary regulations, so you things have to be slaughtered in uh basically in approved slaughterhouses now, so that cuts down the amount of things that you can do. And you're also not allowed to sell foods that you hunt, game that you hunt, and that's uh due to you know the fact that we were just killing too damn much, and to keep the animals uh, you know, to keep a good stock of animals, there was the conservation uh laws put on them. Also, specifically things like birds that you used to be able to shoot any damn thing. It's like the the the birds that you're allowed to kill now are are very, very highly regulated, and and um like one of the ones I really want to actually eat is this thing called the the bobble ink. This is off topic, I don't care.
+
+[32:32] The bobble ink is this is this tiny bird. Okay, listen. Many of the viewers out there are viewers, many of the listeners are listeners out there are familiar with the ordelon. The ordelon is the famous French bird that you eat bones and all. They roast it whole, and you're supposed to put a napkin over it.
+
+[32:46] Some people say to preserve the aroma, some people say to hide from God. And these Ortalon are basically little birds and they go on a long migration. And uh somewhere in, you know, in near the beginning, in the middle of the migration, they stop by in the Mediterranean area in France and they gorge because they need to get a lot of energy and they get very fat so that they can fly all the way south, right? It's a passerine type of bird, it's bird migration. So what these what they've done for centuries is grow is catch these birds and then fatten them specifically so that they're little plump, fat, little juicy morsels, they then, okay.
+
+[33:18] This sounds awful, uh this part's awful. Then they, they uh they usually suffocate them in liquor and then roast them whole. So this is the famous Ordelon that's now now illegal. Now, by the way, fattening things like this has a long, long, long history. It goes back, you know, to the Romans and probably before the Romans, where they used to fatten animals like fig peckers and dormists and things like that, fatten them specifically for the kitchen, catch them and fatten them.
+
+[33:39] Okay. Now, the Ortolon is not the only bird like this. There are two other well known to the cultures that do them, uh migration birds like that that get super fat and get caught and get eaten. One's in China, and I I forget the name of it, it's like the yellow breasted patty swallow or something like that in English. I forget the name of it.
+
+[33:55] But the other one is the bobble link, which used to be known as the rice bird. And when we used to grow a lot of rice in South Carolina, uh all the way up until the early part of uh last century, uh, the migration of these birds would go down. They'd see all the rice and these flocks, these like you could like basically this huge, huge migrating flocks would go down and they would eat a crap load of rice, get amazingly fat, and uh all but it's because they were hurting the rice crop, and because apparently they were incredibly delicious, you'd basically just fire these like small shot shotguns into the air, and the birds would just, you know, fall like rain around you, and you'd pick them up, and they were supposedly the best thing in the world. They were called rice birds. Anyway, you used to be able to get those, and I called every single country, their their the commissions involved in every single country in the migration from here all the way down to South America to see whether any of them allowed me to eat that bird, and they didn't.
+
+[34:47] Uh anyways, it's just a rant on the on the bobbleink. Um, okay, back to the weird meats that sorry, back to the weird meats that we were uh we were eating. So this place gets all these weird meats that are typically now unavailable, but maybe would have been available before all of these uh these these laws, uh, which by the way, the laws are good. I'm not saying the laws are bad. Um now, uh the meats we got were we got uh lion meat, and the lion is obtained.
+
+[35:11] I think I said last week the lion is obtained because um lions that aren't wanted anymore by morons who have them as pets or uh breeding programs, um they're not wanted anymore, they give them up, and typically they can't be placed again. They're slaughtered uh for their fur, and then the meat becomes a byproduct. Uh we had beaver. I don't really know like why I don't know what happened with the beaver, I don't know what the deal is with that. Um but the um we had black bear, probably a similar situation to the lion.
+
+[35:39] We had yak, which I believe was actually farmed for this purpose. Um what else we had? Whole raccoon. We had a whole raccoon. Uh we had one other, didn't we?
+
+[35:48] Or is that it? Um I think that's it. That's it. Okay. So I'm here to tell you what this stuff tasted like.
+
+[35:54] Lion was quite interesting. Lion tastes like pork, right? Pork chop. Tastes like pork chop. A little bit more savory.
+
+[36:00] It's interesting. It's got kind of a it's a pork-based flavor with kind of a unique savory thing, probably due to the fact that it's uh carnivore. It eats only meat. We very rarely eat uh carnivores. So it was uh I I like the lion a lot.
+
+[36:13] It was an older animal. Uh we cooked it at uh 50 s no. Yeah, I what I cook it at? 60. I cooked it at 60 degrees uh Celsius for only it felt really tender, so I only cooked it for an hour or two, and it was quite tough.
+
+[36:28] I think we needed to cook it a lot longer to kind of because it didn't have a lot of like visible connective tissue, but since it was so old, it was kind of tough. So next time I cook lion, I think I'm gonna cook it for a good maybe ten hours at sixty Celsius or thereabouts. It was it was good. It was very good. Uh we did uh I might have done fifty seven.
+
+[36:47] I wish I could have remembered. I gotta go look at my numbers. Uh bear was extremely dark, black almost, and also felt very, very tender before it was cooked. It felt very soft. We cooked it at um fifty seven, I believe, uh, because it looked like a steak, so I wanted to cook it like a steak level, also for about an hour, and it was also tough, but it had a really kind of right aftertaste, like really kind of to me, bloody mineral aftertaste that I didn't really enjoy it.
+
+[37:12] You didn't like the bear, are you? I didn't try it. I was scared of the chicken. I told you that the trichinosis is gonna be killed by that kitty procedure. We looked it up, we know the like the the thermal death curse for trichinosis.
+
+[37:23] I told you we killed all the trichonosis in that thing. I was still sick. I had food poisoning that week. Oh, geez. She okay, so she reads trichinosis about it, and she thinks she has trichonosis.
+
+[37:33] I'm like, you don't, your body's not full of worms. I mean, it's a whole different ball of wax. Whatever. I'm not gonna get into it. I didn't enjoy the bear that much.
+
+[37:40] Um people say it tastes greasy. It didn't taste greasy, it just had kind of a weird metallic uh aftertaste for me. Uh the raccoon was a big disappointment. I cooked that raccoon. Probably I need to cook it a lot longer and at a higher temperature.
+
+[37:53] I cooked it only for four or five hours at 60. Uh lion, by the way, I remember now, I cooked it at 57. The uh the raccoon I I cooked at uh 60 for like uh four and a half hours because I thought it was you know, but it just because it's small doesn't mean it was uh it it's young though, so it was tough. It doesn't have that much meat on it. In the future I would cook it to a much higher temperature for a much longer time, like probably 63, 62, 63 degrees for like 24 hours and then shred it like for a stew.
+
+[38:22] Uh but it had a lot of fat on it, really freaked people out anyway. Uh, you know, it's not wasn't nearly as delicious as the guinea pigs that I've cooked from South America, which you know I think are delicious. So but I'm willing to give raccoon another chance, but the raccoon I had very high hopes for, and I I was disappointed. Now, on the positive side, that beaver was delicious. So there's beaver tail, which isn't actually the flapper, and then there's the flapper.
+
+[38:46] Uh the beaver tail we cooked for 24 hours at 60 Celsius, and it was just delicious. It had a really interesting woody aroma that you know I'm uh I've never really had before in a in a piece of meat. We soaked it in a in a little bit of uh uh vinegar water before we uh cooked it because every recipe basically tells you to do that. So we did that uh and then we we salted it a little bit, let it sit, and then uh put it in a bag, cooked it at s uh in butter at uh 60 for 24 hours, and then shredded it to tail meat, and just just fantastic. I love that beaver.
+
+[39:18] That beaver was delicious, right? Hey, come on now, Stasi. Get your mind out of the gutter. It was like a woody pulled pork. Yeah, it was very good.
+
+[39:26] Uh very, very good. The flapper, which is the actual tail part though, is mainly fat and skin, and we cooked that at a very uh we we skinned one first and then we we cooked another one whole after we had scrubbed it. Uh we cooked those at a high temperature, like 80 Celsius or so, for a couple of hours, and um they rendered out and but they were just kind of I fried them afterwards and they got kind of puffy and crispy on the outside, but there was just kind of too much fat on the inside, and we ate them last. Really, what needs to happen, we've got to run some more experiments, is to cook them, then uh take the fat out, use it for another preparation, and then use the skin, dehydrate it, and puff it like a chicharron. So I you know, in the future you'll be having from us from cooking issues team probably beaver flapper chicharron because I think it's gonna be good.
+
+[40:11] It will. Yeah, yeah. Stasi's having a tough time keeping it together here in the uh in the in the room. Uh and the the last one, also really, really delicious, was the yak. Now, the yak we did cook for uh overnight, uh the same time as the same amount as we actually no sh shoot, I keep on getting my stuff wrong.
+
+[40:29] I didn't I cook the yak at 57 for a whole day for 24 hours or for overnight rather, and the beaver I actually cook for two days, 48 hours if 60. I cooked it just like I cook a short rib. Okay. Excuse me, people. Sorry about that.
+
+[40:43] So uh but the yak we cooked uh overnight because my f my theory was that it was kind of you know, maybe not quite as tough as a short rib was gonna be. And uh so a short rib if you cook it for uh a full day at 60 for 24 hours at 60 degrees Celsius, comes out with the texture of like a skirt steak, and so that's what I was shooting for. So we did that with a yak, and the yak was just really savory and delicious. The odd thing was is that a lot of us detected a little bit of a duck kind of a note tuna. Duck into but it was just I thought I thought it was really good.
+
+[41:13] Uh yeah, and and the the really interesting thing about these is that these animals are all old animals. Uh and so you know, a bunch of friends of mine like uh Steingarten who won't call me back and uh Harold McGee have gone over to Europe where they have a culture of eating older, older animals uh for the flavor, and and you notice the flavor is really, really good. So I really I want to do a lot more uh experimenting with cooking uh older animals. We just gotta figure out uh figure out uh a way to get them. So if you want, I believe there is probably time for uh one more caller if you if you are near a phone.
+
+[41:50] Call in at 71. Oh, we have one. Oh, we have a caller in? Alright, so there's probably no more time for other callers. Hello?
+
+[41:57] Hello. Hi. Hi. Name's Jason. Hey Jason.
+
+[42:01] How are you doing? All right. Great. Um I recently became obsessed with faro. Ah.
+
+[42:08] I just don't know how to cook it right. So what's happening to it? Well, so my my obsession began at an uh a restaurant that served the faro salad and it was just nice and uh it's perfectly cooked like rice. And uh I've been cooking it at a uh ratio of three parts water to one part faro for about fifty minutes and it just doesn't puff up as nicely. So I'm wondering whether I should toast it initially or if if I should soak it or or what?
+
+[42:39] Well the soaking the soaking will probably help. Um I'm trying to remember I I had done a lot of cooking uh done some cooking with it rather a number of years ago. I haven't cooked it recently. What kind of equipment do you have? Do you have a rice cooker?
+
+[42:51] No, just a pen. Oh, yeah. A rice cooker might help. And also a lot of times when I want to cook tough grains that have a real tough coat on them, like faro does, uh, aside from any initial soaking that I do, uh sometimes I'll reach for the pressure cooker because the pressure cooker does a really good job of um of pushing the the liquid into those kind of uh sea coats, but those th the faro can take a long time. You have you cooked that with Cesare, Nastasha?
+
+[43:16] I can't remember how to do it. What's it I don't know. Cooks it for longer than fifty minutes? I don't know. I don't want to say something.
+
+[43:23] I don't want to say something that's not true, but yeah, I've seen him cook it. Oh Jesus say it and I'll try it and I'll call back and let you know if it's true or not. All right, yeah, right. We'll do some research. Yeah.
+
+[43:34] I'll call Chesare. Well, text Chesare now, see if we can get it while you're going. But um if you don't uh a rice cooker, they're good because they're not gonna scorch it while you're going, so you don't have to watch it as carefully and they're gonna get the water and eventually um and you know, on a brown on a brown rice setting. Uh or or I, you know, I I would definitely reach for the pressure cooker, and the pressure cooker's a lot easier because a pressure cooker, you just cook it for like you know, ha half hour in a pressure cooker and you know it's gonna be done. And that's how I cook similar grains, like uh like I'll do um I cook rye berries that way in a pressure cooker.
+
+[44:06] So we do it, and I assume it's gonna cook fairly similar to a rye berry. So to get a rye berry nice and fluffy, you know, you cook it in the pressure cooker from anywhere from 30 to 40 minutes in excess liquid. You also might want to use excess liquid. Are you you know, uh was it absorbing all the liquid? Um it started to, yeah.
+
+[44:23] Yeah, yeah, toward the end. Yeah, so things like that that are tough. You might want to use excess liquid. I don't know that you're gonna dilute the flavor that much, and then the the liquid that you have left over, you could reduce down and use for something else. So that you know that a lot of times those things, you know, once once you start getting in a situation where it's liquid pour in the pan, then you start running into problems where you're actually gonna start maybe uh losing water again out of the outside.
+
+[44:46] The outside's gonna harden up. I would keep it, I would keep them in liquid while they're while they're cooking. Uh because that's definitely how I do it in a in a pressure cooker situation. I don't know if that's gonna help. Have you tried that yet?
+
+[44:58] Uh don't own a pressure cooker. No, no, I meant uh keeping uh keeping uh excess liquid. Well, if if water starts to run out, I'll I'll just add some some more water. And still it's not getting fluffy, huh? Yeah, it's not.
+
+[45:10] Alright, listen. So Cesare Casella is the Dean of Italian studies at the uh at the school, and the man cooks far all day every day. And so uh what it's what's gonna happen is I'm gonna I'm gonna ask uh I promise Stasi, make sure I don't forget to do this. I just texted you. Okay.
+
+[45:26] We texted Cesare Casella and I'm gonna ask uh Louis Di Paolo from DePalo from DePa because I buy most of my faro from DiPalos here in New York City. Yeah, I love I love DiPalos. Uh and so I think it says here he cooks it risotto style. Oh. Okay.
+
+[45:41] So if he cooks it risotto style, then he probably does do an initial fry of the grains. Um although I don't know what that's going to do from a from a texture standpoint, and then just keeps adding liquid the entire time while he's stirring until it absorbs enough. Um have you tried that one? Have you d tried it basically just like it's a risotto, but it's gonna take a lot of it. That seems like it would take a lot longer.
+
+[46:00] Uh oh, a whole lot longer. Yeah. I mean a whole whole lot longer. I mean got kids at home. Yeah, I know what that's like.
+
+[46:08] You know what though? So you have ki you have kids at home. Listen, not just for the far, consider buying a pressure cooker. Pressure cooker is like a genius piece of equipment. Um I don't know if you have the room for it in your kitchen or if you know your anti-pressure cooker, but no, not at all.
+
+[46:24] I've very much pro pressure cookers, just don't have the means to buy one. Oh, yeah. You guys would wouldn't happen to have an extra one just lying around collecting dust, would you? And we we kind of rip through 'em because they use them on the menu. But look, look.
+
+[46:36] So, you know, if you've on our blog, uh we we we don't technically recommend any. I use Coon Recon, and Coon Recons are really expensive. But you know, for a lot of applications, the cheaper pressure cookers, they they do a serviceable job for especially for things like you know, like uh grains like this that you want to cook cook quickly. Um the advantage of them also is in the summertime they're not gonna heat up your kitchen very much. Um because as soon as they come up to pressure, you can turn the temperature down.
+
+[47:05] Uh I mean turn not the temperature, sorry, turn the uh the uh heat input down. And so they're actually fairly efficient cooking vessels um um to you know to just to stop your you know, cut your air conditioning bills down a little bit uh in in the summertime. Um I wish I had the recipe in my head. Anyway, we have texted the appropriate people. And Nastasha, your job is to make sure that the answer is put up into the forum section of the blog.
+
+[47:31] We should we I'm gonna start a separate thing in the forum section. It's just like radio radio show answers. It's a great idea. Yeah, all right. So I'll do that for you, and that'll be there within within the week.
+
+[47:41] And I apologize that I didn't answer your question to I think you've done a great job at uh at attempting to. All right, thanks so much. I'll try to buy a pressure cooker. All right, I I appreciate it. Thanks for calling.
+
+[47:55] No problem. All right. And uh oh, yes, alright. So as we leave, there is still room uh in tomorrow, Wednesday, July, what is that, 28th, uh at the French Culinary Institute downtown. Come do high-tech cocktails uh with uh me uh and with Nils Noran.
+
+[48:13] We're gonna do liquid nitrogen, rotary rotary evaporation. We'll teach you how to clarify lime juice using agar at home. Uh we're gonna do three of six cocktails really, but three different ones done in a home friendly way and then done in a techno well but still using technology and then in a technology intensive way. And so you could taste the difference and see kind of what we do with all the fancy equipment and what you can do at home. That's tomorrow at the French Culinary at 6 p.m.
+
+[48:39] I think it's six to eight six to eight or something like that. Burgers, fries, and liquor. What could be better? You're listening to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network this week brought to you by Fairway, like no other market. Vicious fish.
+
+[48:58] Oh, you didn't got me on this corner, and I don't know where I'm at.
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+[0:16] You are listening to Cooking Issues coming to you live on the Heritage Radio Network. Today we're coming to you not on our usual day. Today we're coming to you on Monday from noon to 1245 instead of our usual Tuesdays. Next week we'll be back on Tuesday. Today's uh Today's cooking issues is brought to you by Whole Foods Market.
+
+[0:34] Uh, you know, you shop there, I I shop there. We all know who they are. Uh, you know, they do they do some good work, they try to do local stuff when they can. Whole Foods Market. There's one near you.
+
+[0:44] Um, so today we're in the uh studio today with, of course, uh Nastasha Lopez, Cooking Issues Hammer, and live special guest, uh Dave Wondrich, award-winning author and uh master of the inebriating beverage. Uh hi, Dave, thanks for coming in. Hi, Dave. Thanks for having me. All right, uh, but uh Cooking Issues is the show where we answer your cooking questions, and today I hope some of you call in with some drink-related questions because there's no better person to answer them than Dave Wandrich, uh, author of uh Imbi, uh like several versions of the Esquire cocktail book, right?
+
+[1:15] What else? What else you got here? Like Bazillion Magazine articles. Uh pretty much a metric bazillion at this point. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[1:22] It's like a cubic bazillion. Yeah. So uh and right now you have a rare opportunity. You can ask any cocktail question you want, and we got you covered, basically. You get you want a science question, you want a history question, you want a recipe question.
+
+[1:34] 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. Uh call in, we'll be here for the next 45 minutes. So before we uh actually hit the drink making, I did get one email question that came in on a on a regular cooking related issue. Uh Eddie Shepherd from uh the United Kingdom uh emailed us and he he asked, he's a vegetarian uh chef, and he wanted to know how to do umami without using uh dashi or things like this.
+
+[2:00] Well you're in luck Eddie because uh umami is basically a sensation we get from uh protein breakdown it's an actual sensation that you have actually have taste receptors on your tongue that receive um these protein breakdowns typically uh you know glutamic acid is the most famous one in amino acid but you know other things as well and uh they they tell your body that awesome break broken down protein is coming in uh but and this is a lot of times signaled by meats uh vegetarian though there's a lot of vegetarian things that are very high in umami and they're things that vegetarians often crave for instance uh cooked mushrooms uh uh parmesan cheese anything aged with pro any aged dairy product where it breaks down over time and forms uh you know amino acids free aminos has a lot of umami in it tomato uh has a lot of free umami in it and you you cook it and you concentrate it and you you can get it that way so there's many vegetarian ways of um of getting umami I am not above spiking things actually with monosodium glutamate it's totally natural someone please call in and say that they're allergic to it so I can have this discussion with you. Um anyway the other question Eddie has uh real quickly is is sous vide useful for someone who doesn't do meat absolutely Eddie uh the low temperature isn't as important with vegetables but the sous vide is great because it allows you to do things like uh cook a carrot and have no flavor leach out and nothing go into it so it kind of you can use it to accentuate the the actual vegetables get the actual vegetable flavor in uh rather than uh changing it. So that's our cooking related question and now we're on to beverages yes beverages beverages. Okay. So uh we have a uh a question coming in uh for Dave.
+
+[3:34] Dave's working on a a book now called uh it's called uh Punch the Delights and Dangers of the Flowing Bowl. Ah, right. And so and so someone uh because we we mentioned that he was doing this, uh wrote in and said, uh I I see punch uh nowadays more and more uh I you know I see it all the time now. Uh what do you think the the state, the modern state of punches, and where where do punches fit in in a modern cocktail menu? Uh it's really cool to see, like everywhere you go into, you know, sort of the state of the art modern bars, and they're like tables of people sitting around a punch bowl, just like they were two hundred years ago.
+
+[4:05] It's kind of cool. It's very fun. Uh but uh I I think right now people are sort of at the stage of figuring it out. They've made a couple classic recipes. They've got a very sort of simplified formula that's been passed down where it's like sour, sweet, strong, weak, spice, five ingredients mixed together.
+
+[4:25] But there's kind of coming at it from a cocktail head, and I taste a lot of these punches and they're they taste a lot like really big cocktails. They're very, very pungent and they're great for just a couple glasses. But over the course of an evening like uh back in the day they would drink punch just you know, bowl after bowl until they were all like rolling around on the floor utterly inebriated, which you know we can't really get away with as much as we would like. No, exactly. But nonetheless, uh I I I think a lot of it is is just so pungent.
+
+[4:54] It's like having quail for dinner every day. Right. You get tired of it after a while. So is it is it that they is it that they don't follow the original recipe to get an idea for what the original is meant to be like and then build from there? Or is it just a coming from a different perspective, like I'm gonna have one or two of these instead of gonna be quaffing these all night?
+
+[5:12] I I think people haven't uh have j really just started working with it, you know, and uh for me because of working on this book I had to make many, many, many old recipes. And it took me a long time to realize that I was I was kind of doing it wrong from the old point of view. I mean, these modern punches are totally delicious. It's just they're very spicy and you know pungent. They put a lot of bitters and chartreuse and vermouth and herbal elements, etcetera, which work great in cocktails, but you know they kind of cloy after about uh four or five small cups.
+
+[5:42] Right. But are they overly strong as well or uh they tend to be pretty strong too. But I think you know that's part I'm sure that has to do with consumers too. The consumers also expect something more like a cocktail. They don't expect this this stuff.
+
+[5:54] I mean punch originally was like artificial wine. That's what people talked about it. So it would be you know right now the artificial wine is more like California Cabernet and less like Burgundy and maybe hopefully over time people will go a little more to the burgundy side. Right and of course our idea of wine nowadays has been somewhat warped. Like we we you know we're ex we expect now like a 14% wine instead of like a you know a 12 or some of them are up to like sixteen which is getting into the cocktail right.
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+[6:21] Good look good luck waking up the next morning after a couple bottles of that. Well uh this brings us actually to another uh interesting question we had coming in about uh dilution and they're asking about the proportion of water in a cocktail uh and they want to know you know how how the ice fits in and how the you know the ice breaks down is coming from Chris in Greenpoint. Just wanted to talk about I guess dilution and and and ice uh and so why don't we take your take on it Dave and then you know Yeah I mean I know you've got you've got a lot of stuff about this too. I could talk for a billion years on this but uh I I won't because we're only a forty five minute show. I mean you know the st standard dilution for a cocktail the rule of thumb ever everybody uses is that uh the shaking it or stirring it with ice should add twenty-five percent uh to the volume and thereby diluting it by by that much.
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+[7:10] And and that, you know, pretty much when I've measured it out, that is pretty good ballpark uh measure, depending on the kind of ice you're using and so on and so forth. Right. I mean for me the interesting thing about that number is is that it's based on what, based on just the liquor weight? I mean, like you have drinks that have so many things in them. Oh, exactly.
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+[7:29] You know, or yeah, because you know, your simple syrup is not a liquor, your your lime's not a liquor, your whatever you're adding in is not a liquor. I think, you know, having done a bunch of tests on on dilution in ice and proportions, I think the the best way to do it to figure out what you like is to uh make a drink, weigh the base, make a drink, and then uh weigh it afterwards and see how much water you added. I mean it's you know that's the only way to figure it out. We did this, we found that we add that in a shaking drink, and this makes a lot of sense if you think about it, you want your shaking drink to be more diluted than you know your Manhattan. Yeah, they're different classes of drinks.
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+[8:04] I mean, the shaken drinks are sours already, they're already more dilute. You've already got s as you said, you know, simple syrup and and citrus juice in there. Right. And and and the interesting thing about stirred cocktails, if you look at it, is uh how long would you say the average bartender stirs a a cocktail? Maybe twenty seconds?
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+[8:20] Yeah. Something like now uh that's that's uh that's even a lot. I mean it's it's usually even you know like in the fifteen range. Right. And and what's interesting about stirring as opposed to shaking and dilution is that shaking uh does its dilution very fast.
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+[8:33] If if a if a bartender shakes their drink for 15 seconds, they've probably they've made it to, you know, a after that point that there's diminishing returns on chilling or shake. Oh yeah, yeah. That's even that's way too long also. Yeah, but in stirring, well, especially if you like a boozy drink, which I know you do. Yeah.
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+[8:48] But the but the uh in We all have our weaknesses. Yeah, exactly, exactly. Well, we turn we have the same one, so it's like but the uh in in a in a stirred drink, it turns out that uh it takes upwards of a minute to get to that same level of dilution as you would shaking for for 15 to 20 seconds. So there's there's a lot uh there's a lot more um room for uh error and room for artistry in stirring. Well well, it also depends on what kind of ice you use for stirring.
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+[9:13] I use uh I'll I'll use like finely cracked or or or almost snow ice. Yeah, that's and that the dilution is fast in that, but it doesn't it's not more than twenty-five percent because it it gets so cold instantly. Right. Yeah, well that's that's the you know stirring is all about surface like shaking is so violent that everything happens fairly quickly. Stirring, you can make it actually faster than shaking if you use fine enough fine enough ice.
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+[9:36] The d the the dilution in the chilling can be can be almost instant. But like if you notice, like uh bartenders who want to have their stirring be more effective, they'll crack their ice as they're doing it. Yeah, and I thought that was a a bunch of hocum until I realized that ice, you know, has a lot of water sitting on the outside of it, and when you crack ice right before you stir, you're getting more surface area, which makes for faster, uh, you know, uh colder drinks, but you're doing it uh in a way that's not adding extra water because you uh you're making newer dry surfaces as you're doing it. So it's actually good practice to crack the big ice. It makes a huge difference.
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+[10:06] Uh I mean you can stir f as you said with cubes, it takes like a minute. I I I find drinks stirred with like the large cold draft cubes that everyone's using nowadays take they they never get as cold as I would like. Right, right. I mean it it's uh you know, people need to think people they they think big ice is the answer, and big ice is big ice. I mean it's it's good at what it's good at and it's bad at what it's bad at.
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+[10:27] It doesn't have a lot of surface area, it's not very fast at chilling. It's it's really good at filling up a glass. Yeah, and it's really good at like keeping your your drink cold for a very long time without completely watering it down. But you know the funny thing is studying like the mixology in the in in in the nineteenth century, if I can use that dreaded word mixology, those guys then they got their ice in big blocks, they had to butcher it up as needed. They had different size ice for every kind of drink.
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+[10:51] They had shavers so they could shave it right off the block and you know expose a new surface that would be dry, shave that and put it in. And so they they had a lot more flexibility than using just cubes out of a machine, which uh so a lot of the the newest places are starting to approach now. Sure, like Richie and you said that. Yeah, the guys uh varnish in in in LA. I mean, those guys are are really serious about using different sized ices for different effects, and that's all it is.
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+[11:16] It's a question of effects. There's no no one answer for that. Right. I mean um he the the funny funny thing is is a lot of times you'll hear bartenders talk about uh they'll they'll give some kind of pseudo-scientific reason for Y X, Y, and Z works. And it's like, listen, is your drink good?
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+[11:30] Do you yeah, you know, does the presentation good? And you know, that's pretty much it. Because I can get into the the science of it with them, but often I find it doesn't necessarily help them make their drink any better. Well, yeah, I mean, you know, you can have a drink that's scientifically good and still tastes like craft. Yeah, exactly.
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+[11:44] That's unfortunately the case. Exactly, exactly. Well, uh that's a good question, Chris. Uh thanks for calling it in. And you brought up uh the word mixology, and I used to uh I used to actually kind of think it was bizarre because I you know it's the same thing with with uh people calling themselves chefs who aren't chefs.
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+[12:00] I think there's a lot of honor in being a cook. I don't see anything wrong with the word bartender, but what if you're not a bartender? That's right. I uh that's exactly that's exactly right. And also it is an old word, it's not a new word.
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+[12:11] I think people don't necessarily know that. Mixology has a long history of the five. Yeah, it goes back to the eighteen fifties, and the funny thing about it, it was it was coined as a joke. It was in a bit of like patter of you know, a a guy calling him um the bartender a mixologist of typicular fixins, like you know, like tiples. Right.
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+[12:27] And it was a joke. And I I I think that's kind of important to keep it that joke aspect in mind. It's is not serious stuff. I mean, you can treat it seriously, but you can't treat it that seriously. You know, you should it still has to have that element of fun and play in it because otherwise it becomes work.
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+[12:44] And why would you want to like have your your drinking be work? Exactly. Well, well, I've come around to the word mixology. We could talk about a word when we come back that I've not come around to molecular, because it's always people taking themselves too damn seriously, and it's an awful terrible word, and please erase it from your food and beverage memory. Uh plus a lot of the drinks aren't good.
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+[13:02] But uh aside aside from that, we we we'll talk about that when we get back. We're also gonna talk about uh uh what are we gonna talk about? Uh Dutch distilled spirits. We can talk about that and the craft distilling, I think uh is is another uh big buzzword these days that we could uh we could kick around a little bit. Alright, so we're coming right back at you with uh Dave Wonders who says cooking issues.
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+[13:23] Oh, how you feel, brother? Feeling good? You feel good? So much bone bella. How you feel, man?
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+[13:31] I'm feeling all right. I feel fella getting down. We're gonna have a bump good tech. We're gonna have a bomb good tech. We're gonna have a bomb ticket.
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+[13:55] We're gonna have a bomb good. Don't take them up, friend. We gotta take a high! All right, we're gonna do it again. You wanna do it again?
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+[14:11] Yeah, that you won't. We gotta take the high. Brother. Yeah. Now I won't have about it.
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+[14:24] Let Red blow up my two courses. And then I want to wave you and let's go on to it with dinner. Yeah, alright. Come on, get that bellow with a little horn over there. No, James, hold on, moment.
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+[14:37] Red, get it, take us higher. Yeah. Take us higher. Brad! Bam!
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+[14:50] You're listening to Cooking Issues. I'm Dave Arnold. Uh, we're here to answer all of your cooking and today drink related questions. Please call in your questions to 718-497-2128. 718-497-2128.
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+[15:04] Uh today we're here with uh Dave Wondridge, and we are talking about uh booze, right? Uh so in the in the last in the in the last segment, we uh we started in um and I won't spend spend too long on this because anyone that knows me have he has heard me go off on this uh at great length, but uh we were talking about mixology as a term uh and how you know I've kind of come around with it, and Dave was making the excellent point that you kind of have to be lighthearted about it uh in order for it to work. Well, it should be fun in some way, yeah. Yeah, yeah. Uh and then uh m molecular mixology, though, is a horrible thing, yes?
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+[15:36] Well, uh, you know, it's one of those uh if by whiskey questions. It depends on what you mean by molecular mixology. If you're making stuff that's new, different, fun, and not perhaps overly uh pretentious, that's great, you know. You know, i i i if you're treating it like anybody behind the bar has to be in a white lab coat and measuring things by you know joules or something and and and and you're in you're in the presence of technological genius, so shut up and and take your eat your cocktail or you know, drink your appetizer or whatever, then it then it becomes a little a little much. Right.
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+[16:14] I mean I think uh the the you know the operative word here is you say you know pretentious. You don't want it to be pretentious. I mean I think that kind of like one of the best applications I've seen of this is uh you know Tony Tony Conyo con Corneliaro. Is that good? My Italian battery?
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+[16:27] That's excellent. Yeah. Uh at 69 Colbrook Row uh in uh in London, you know, they use all the newest, all the newest stuff. In fact, stuff that you know almost nobody else has, and yet their bar is completely unpretentious. You know, it's a normal bar.
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+[16:40] I mean you can you know just go in, you could have a beer and be very happy there. They wouldn't make you feel weird about it. Right. I mean they have a tranny band playing, you know. It's like it's got hospitality, it's got fun, it's got uh a little bit of uh nightlife going on.
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+[16:54] So yeah. It's not Dave Wondrich's ultimate bar for for any listeners out there, Dave Wondrich's uh uh ultimate bar has uh rifle a rifle range in it and you can shoot while you drink. This is like an old That's a nineteenth century standard. I mean I would have to do what they did back then is they had uh cute girls uh as the sort of r who running the rifle range in the bars, and you would shoot uh and try to beat their score, which drove the men nuts because those girls were all crack shots and the guys were all drunk. Right.
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+[17:23] And so they kept paying and paying and paying and trying and trying again to uh to to beat the uh sober uh you know dead eyes. That's good. That's good business. That's good business, right? It's the same as the uh mechanical bulls now.
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+[17:34] Like you always have the you know, the the one woman tending bar who's extremely good at it. Yeah, you know, it makes all the men look like idiots and then they line up to pay to to get thrown. Yeah, because they don't want to get beaten by that itty bitty girl there. Yeah, right, right. You know, praying on male stupidity is is a growth business always.
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+[17:44] Oh yeah, always, yeah, exactly, exactly. That's never gonna go dry. That well is never gonna get tapped. Uh-uh. Uh so um okay.
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+[17:57] So uh I don't know how we got into that. But uh so that's our take on molecular mixology. Keep it, keep it fun, don't be pretentious. And also, you know what, make some delicious drinks. Yeah, I mean, one one thing I see a lot with is right now it's sort of at the look at the the the tricks I can do with it.
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+[18:12] You know, let me make something that tastes like something else. I'm kind of waiting at I mean a martini only tastes like a martini, right? Right. And a Manhattan only tastes like oh hopefully, right? And a Manhattan only like a Manhattan.
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+[18:22] I'm waiting for molecular molecular mixology or whatever we're gonna call it now, a technological uh bartending uh whatever, to to come up with its drinks that are like that, that aren't just tasting like something else. Right, you know, and are aren't playing around with like let me mimic this, let me mimic that. I mean for me, I'm happy because you know this is what I for for those of you out here, uh this is what I kind of do for a living. Uh and uh you know, so I'm not poo-pooing it or make fun of it. I mean, this is how I make a living, is using new techniques and a lot of it in cocktails.
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+[18:51] And you know, the goal should be uh to make something that has legs, to make something that people want to have again and again. You know what I mean? It's not like, oh that's cute, I'll have one. You know, so don't say that to a martini. Right.
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+[19:02] So you know, Nastasha and I work on a drink that I think has you know legs, but it's no one would think of it as being you know a high tech cocktail. It's uh uh you know uh either nectarine or peach, depending on the quality, uh uh plum juice those juices, plum juice clarified, uh bourbon, little water and and simple. And um, you know, this is a delicious, this is a delicious drink. Yeah, that clarified juice isn't easy though. I mean, that's that's the key.
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+[19:27] Right, exactly. But to me, like that's good use of technology right there. That's a drink people have that drink, and they say, hey, you know what? I would like another one of those instead of, hey, that's interesting. Can I have something else?
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+[19:37] Yeah. You know what I mean? And that's what you hope for. That's generally when it comes around to is people have like kind of played around and found the the little tricks that get them into it, and then they start taking it seriously. Yeah, and that's when you start getting interesting stuff.
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+[19:52] Right. I mean, nothing. As long as it's not too serious, as we said. Right. Well, that's the thing.
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+[19:55] I mean, you know, it's yes, it should I like it when people take their craft seriously, but they don't beat you over the head, they don't make you feel good or bad or you know, disguise the effort a little bit. Exactly, exactly. All right. So uh another thing I like to work on, and there's a lot of new both techno and retro going on now is distillation. And I know you're really interested in this, Dave.
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+[20:16] Do you want to talk about maybe the new movement for very like micro and craft distillation? Yeah, this is this is something that's uh spawned heated debate lately uh on on the web, in person. We all just got back from uh Tales of the Cocktail in New Orleans, the annual booze fest for sort of high-end uh bartenders, mixologists, uh, and people who want to sell them things. A lot of those. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
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+[20:42] A lot of those. Yeah, how much money do you think Purno Ricard laid out for that? Oh my god, hundreds of thousands of dollars, it seems like Purneau. Yeah, nicely done. Yeah.
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+[20:51] Uh but uh and and this is one of the things that's like a perennial source of debate. Uh it's like uh right now we're in the midst of this renaissance and small scale distilling in the U.S. It turns out uh laws have been liberalized. This is one good thing that uh the Republican uh hatred of regulation has brought us uh to balance it against losing the Gulf and all that other stuff. Oh well, at least we got booze.
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+[21:14] I would say I would still say deregulation has been a net loss, but at least we got micro boosts. Yeah, yeah. But you know, you know what happens uh it there are a lot of people who uh have started up and they don't really have uh they haven't spent years distilling, they haven't trained to do this, they're entrepreneurs, they buy some grain neutral spirit from Archer Daniels Midland, they put some botanicals in it, uh, you know, sort of what they heard goes into gin, they run it through the still that they've bought, gleaming new, you know, sort of steel still, some maybe some copper plates inside. Right, right. And then they they bottle it and suddenly they're crafts people.
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+[21:50] I mean they're they're good business people. It's interesting. Uh uh, but that's I don't think that's craft distilling. I brought an example that uh we here in the studio can taste that you guys will just have to uh either dream about or think of see in your nightmares. Wait a minute.
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+[22:03] Let me let me get the sound effect proper. Oh yeah. This is uh from Holland from the Dutch Geneva Museum, Geneva being Dutch Gin, which is sort of a it's actually a cross between gin and whiskey. And this is made from rye malt and barley malt and uh a little bit of juniper berry made in 18th century stills, completely crafted by hand by a guy who's been doing it for 15 years, only available at the museum. And it's utterly unlike anything you'll ever taste.
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+[22:35] Let's taste this and then we'll while we're while we're tasting it, we have a question coming in, I think. Okay. Let's taste it. Let's taste it. It is different.
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+[22:44] You can smell the what's what's the grain bill on this? It's uh two-thirds rye, one third barley malt. Wow, it's really nice. It's grainy, it's totally smooth and clean. Right.
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+[22:53] It's silky, it's a little bit more than a little bit. Botanical's way down. This is craft distilling. And you know, the a lot of this stuff is just not craft. It's delicious, it's interesting, but this is this takes a real commitment.
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+[23:06] You know, wow. This isn't done over like coal-fired stills, uh utterly everything is done in the 18th century style. Everything is handmade. This is a handmade by one guy. Let's give the name on this product again.
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+[23:18] This is uh old Sheedam, original single malt Geneva. You've got to go to uh Sheedham in Holland to get it, it's worth the trip. Cheers, she dum. Cheers. Uh okay, we have a question.
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+[23:27] Who who do we have on the line? Hi, this is Wendy from Brooklyn. Hey, Wendy. Hi. Um, I'm actually new to New York City, and um I was wondering, Dave, if you could uh recommend any mixologists in the city who you really like.
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+[23:43] There's so many. I mean you there ten years ago there were about five bars where you could get a great cocktail in New York. Now there are at least fifty. I mean, if you go to uh uh uh Death and Company, uh anybody there will make a great drink. Anybody will make a great drink at Pegu Club or PDT.
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+[24:04] I mean, these places all have programs now. It used to be you'd go there and you'd catch the good good guy or the good girl behind the bar and you'd get a good drink, and then you'd go back the next time it'd be somebody else and it wouldn't. But now, like Clover Club in Brooklyn. Uh where do you live? She's somewhere in Brooklyn.
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+[24:21] Yeah, somewhere in Brooklyn. She's still there? Do we still have her on the line? Okay. Uh oh well, because uh, you know, now you know you've got options all over Brooklyn, too.
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+[24:30] Right. Uh there's there's there's 19th Street in Manhattan has a couple great bars. Uh Rye House is a new one that's fun and and excellent. There they're there i i it it's fantastic. I mean, it's a shame we lost her because the real operative question is what kind of drink do you like, what kind of experience do you like?
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+[24:46] Because there's so many you know it's it's gone beyond, you know, you just sit down at a people people have created whole kind of the bar as an as a certain type of experience. You know, if you want you know funtique, we can get you now high quality funki if you want, you know. It was very you can go to painkiller on the lower east side and have like drink out of half pineapples and have you know the drink actually be carefully made by people who uh uh don't just throw throw crap into a blender and dump it out again. That's just not usually my style, but uh you know we were there together and I had a good time there, yeah. Yeah, it was good.
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+[25:20] You know, I mean th it it it's it's uh it's a real renaissance. This is uh I mean the golden age. It's certainly not since you know 1920 have we seen uh anything this good, and this is probably better than then too, at least at the high end. Yeah. So it's cool.
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+[25:35] All right. So uh uh Wendy, I'm sorry that we lost you. Um so uh let's talk more about this product 'cause I'm still drinking it. So yeah, I mean this is this is what like sort of craft uh entails is it's everything is done by hand, small production, they mash their own grain on the site, they distill it three times in these ancient I think they're r restored stills, but they're built exactly you know to the ancient style. Uh it goes through the still three times and then gets stored in pits in the floor, which was a fire prevention thing.
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+[26:11] Is you you you keep your distillant below grade level. Yeah, but the distillation is actually dangerous. It's actually dangerous, yeah. And and this is these are little tiny distilleries. The way the Dutch always did it.
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+[26:21] They didn't have big mega distilleries. They had lots of little ones and they all made more or less the same thing. You know, they had traditional ways and uh and you would buy your stuff on the spot market, like, okay, your your gin is good, your gin is maybe less good, we'll get the good one. But you know, they that kept them competing to have the quality up. There weren't these big monopolies.
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+[26:39] Right. I mean, I wish you guys uh, you know, could smell the nose on this thing because it goes on forever. Yeah. No, I mean it's really it's unique, it doesn't smell like any other spirit. It's not uh, you know, there's nothing else like this.
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+[26:52] Uh that's sort of that's sort of what I want what I hope to see from craft distilling is come up with stuff that I've never tasted before. Right. Come up with stuff that just is is so different and so cool. I mean p part of the problem with I think with cra craft distillation and I'm gonna insult people who you know that I actually that I like people that I actually like, I'm about to insult them. Uh but not because I want to, just because it's um i you know uh people want to get into for instance the whiskey business, but they want to have product inside of a year.
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+[27:23] Yeah. You know what I mean? Yeah, th those two those two are not compatible. You know, it's your business model is good for a business model, it's not good for a craft model. Right.
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+[27:33] But you know, but I think that they're they're the desire is good. They just want to have product, but it's you know, the the problem is is that that's why the you know, these are traditions that were built up over a long time, and some of them just take a long time to get it right, you know. And and uh I mean it takes years to age whiskey, at which point your capital is tied up, and it's that's uh admittedly that sucks, but you know that is sort of what it takes to make like really, you know, uh a barrel aged well aged spirits. There's a lot of speed aging going on. They'll put things in little tiny barrels and and kind of speed it up a little.
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+[28:06] And that that can work. It's just not, you know, the same as the those seasons in and seasons out of the the the spirits going in and out of the wood as as it can uh expands in the summer and contracts in the winter, etc. etcetera. So I mean the proofs in the palette, but I think that if you go and look, most of the time, you know, trained palates can they will pick out the ones that have been aged for longer. But but this stuff is you know, this is coming.
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+[28:33] I mean the the the smart people, and there are many of them uh and the the good good craftsmen at this uh are are are they have stuff that's aging that you know in in two or three years is gonna be out on the market and it's gonna be fabulous. And that's gonna be really exciting. It's just right now it's hard to get utterly excited about it for me because I have to taste a lot of this stuff professionally, like blind tasting, and you know, it's you're competing against a pretty well established uh bar, a pretty high bar. So I mean uh I know that when I you know when I do distillation, I'm not really working on creating new like a new a new spirit or new or or even an old one. I'm I'm more interested more interested in flavor, putting flavors into things.
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+[29:15] I mean that's I think a different that's a different process. Yeah. I mean, I'm not saying I'm not saying there's skill involved, obviously, because sometimes I do a good job and sometimes I do a bad job, and you know, I I learn more every time I do distillation run, and you know, been doing it for you know f uh four years now or so and you learn more all the time, but it's not the same it's not the same thing. I'm trying to do something different. I wouldn't say it's in the same category as basically someone making this geniver.
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+[29:43] It's a different it's a different thing altogether. Yeah, it it it but I mean uh I would like to see more of that, you know. I'd like to see people making new spirits from grains that haven't been used before. I'd like to see people uh uh making handcrafted liqueurs from scratch, right? You know, stuff like that.
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+[30:02] Uh you know, using distilling their own base spirit, taking wine, making you know, nice uh fresh brandy, and then flavoring that with oranges and making like an old school orange corsao. Right, right. Everybody would use that. It's just uh I just don't see the need to kind of keep making gin and vodka the same way that everybody else's. Yeah.
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+[30:22] You know, it's like okay, but that's all right, but you know before we go to break, because we're gonna have to go to break in a second. You mentioned before they buy a lot of their straight liquor from our Arch Archer Daniel uh ADM. Yeah. And so uh it we just recently, you would love this. Next time you're at the French culinary where you know where where we are, uh, we ordered from a chemical lab 200-proof ethanol.
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+[30:43] We ordered a crap ton of it at at check this out. We only paid I think like sixteen dollars a liter for it for 200 for 200, straight 200 and hydrous alcohol. This stuff is remote has no. Yeah, nothing, right? It's just alcohol.
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+[30:57] Yeah, no, but we diluted it down to 40. We were drinking, god damn, this is sweet. Sweetest vodka you ever had. Oh my god, it's the no, seriously, it's the best ever. And it's so cheap.
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+[31:07] Makes Smyrnoff look spendy. It's so cheap. Oh my goodness. Craziness. Yeah, that's really funny.
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+[31:13] All right, cooking issues coming back at you in a couple minutes. Bad whisky. I started in the save bed whisky bed whisky bed whisky lose my happy home buddy had a party the cats were on You were listening to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network I'm the host of Cooking Issues Dave Arnold uh calling with all of your cooking and today drink related questions to 718497-2128 that's 718-497-2128. You still have some time to call in. We have Dave Wondrich in the studio.
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+[33:21] Dave Wandrich uh has won a zillion awards, both for his magazine writing and for the uh you know, he's written, of course, the Esquire cocktail books of several of them, how many of those editions I I actually only wrote one of them, but uh that was the last one. So the one I have anyway. You wrote the one I have. Yeah. And uh, you know, wrote Inbibe, which was we actually w before we go into what you're working on in uh a you know, at the moment, why don't you talk a little bit because Inbibe was kind of a landmark cocktail book.
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+[33:49] And uh, you know, and it was it was had kind of a unique premise for cocktail books. Well, it was sort of the right book at the right time. Uh Imbibe is is uh uh purportedly a biography of Jerry Thomas who wrote the first bartender's guide. But since he was a bartender, you know, the materials I had enough materials at the time to maybe write thirty pages of good biography. And then the rest was uh I talked about his drinks and where they came from and all the tools that that he would have used and his fellow bartenders.
+
+[34:19] And then I had just chapters of recipes uh with I gave the original recipe and then kind of talked about how I would go about recreating them. And that actually before Imbibe there'd been a lot of fabulous cocktail books. But I think Imbibe was one of the first books written acknowledging that fact. You know, it was like, okay, you already have the wonderful basic cocktail books, you already have a couple vintage cocktail books, you've already got Dale de Groff's Craft of the Cocktail, uh, Gary Regan's Joy of Mixology. Both excellent books.
+
+[34:51] Both excellent books. Ted Hayes uh Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails. You've got those. So this is for those people, you know, so the people who already have an overview and it was kind of let's get back deep into detail into the nineteenth century, find out what is discoverable about how American bartending evolved and became what it is. And uh, you know, I was I was the right guy at the right time for that I guess.
+
+[35:16] Well I think it really hit a chord because you know there's so many people in the cocktail world who um you know the the mode for a long for a long time for the past eight years, let's say five five to eight years in cocktail world of people who actually knew what the hell was going on was to kind of was a kind of recapturing of lost knowledge and a hunger for history I think and uh but those people didn't have anyone doing any actual modern scholarship on it. You know you had a a couple of older books like uh the the what was that called the Wild West Yeah Wild West Bartender's Bible or something like that. Which is a good book yeah uh a lot of kind of bad histories also but uh I think people were really kind of hungering for this sort of book and so I think it just hit the right chord. Well I I think the the one really good decision I made on that book was to address technique in detail. You know instead of just giving the recipe I broke each one down, talked about the techniques to execute it, the ingredients at some length, you know I just went on and on about this stuff.
+
+[36:12] But it it walks people through the the recipe rather than just saying go figure it out yourself, we've given you the tools I think that actually was helpful to to to a lot of bartenders because I I go to a lot of bars and I do see it behind the bar which is very flattering and means that I can uh try to twist their arms into getting free drinks. Right well it's ext you know it's extremely well received book at least in you know in the circles I I I run in uh you know I I have it I've read it I like it a lot. But uh so now you're coming off this book. This book maybe was that three years ago three years ago end of two thousand seven. Okay, so you're coming off of this book, and this book is a about a very deeply American subject, and you know, the the history is really, you know, the it it's very it's very American feel book, right?
+
+[36:56] And then you're you're coming off of that, and now you're working on punch, and punch is a little bit different, right? Yeah, I mean originally I had a a huge chapter on punch bowl drinks in the Jerry Thomas manuscript, and my manuscript is way too long, and my editor said, you know, uh we can't publish this, it's way too long. You gotta cut something. And I looked at it again and I said, you know, none of these punch bowl drinks turn up in like old newspapers uh in about American drinking. And it turns out, you know, they were probably put in there by Jerry's publisher just to to kind of make the length.
+
+[37:28] And he didn't really engage them in any way. And I realized that's because they were really English drinks. So once I cut that book, it gave that part, it gave the Jerry Thomas book focus, but it also kind of gave me my next book, because I gotta go back and deal with this stuff. And this is a story that kind of that takes me much back into England and British I guess you could call it the British invention of mixology, uh of of mixing strong drinks based on spirits. And it really comes out to have been a British innovation and uh this invention of punch or discovery of it.
+
+[38:04] Nobody like the martini, nobody will ever know exactly how it came to be. But you can certainly figure out the conditions under which it was created, mostly sailors running out of wine and beer and needing something now. And so what era are we? We're talking about the early sixteen hundreds, maybe the very end of the fifteen hundreds. Right, so you know, back before back before we were us anyway.
+
+[38:25] It's not like we couldn't have invented it. No, no, we just didn't get the chance. Yeah, yeah, yeah. They and you know, and it was certainly uh very popular in America before it was popular in Britain. But uh the sailors, it was it was English sailors, as far as I can tell.
+
+[38:37] Although it could possibly have been Dutch ones too. Right. But we won't talk about that. Right, but like Dutch in the actual Dutch sense, not Dutch meaning bad or fake. Yeah, no, no, yeah.
+
+[38:44] We're real, real cheese eating Holland Duncan. Uh now the um uh uh about just about punch for a second. Maybe you can talk a little bit, you know, the uh about the the pop kind of fake etymology. You said it was fake, that punch means only that punch comes from five. Yeah, I mean there's uh this idea that uh punch comes from the Indian word for five, uh which you know, punch is like Hindustani, because punch has five ingredients, uh strong, you know, spirits, water, citrus, sugar, and spice.
+
+[39:17] Now, often it had four ingredients, often it had six ingredients. So that's put that beside the thing. Uh put that put that to the side. There's also it only com this comes back to one guy's theory, who was a classical scholar who visited India in the 1680s, you know, almost like 60, 80 years after punch was invented. And he says this because he seemed uh learned, it gets picked up and becomes orthodoxy, and nobody ever really questioned it until uh a guy in like around 1900 working for the Oxford English Dictionary put out an article saying, you know, this is maybe a little bit fishy.
+
+[39:51] Uh and I I only found that article after I'd been sort of come to the same conclusion. So I was very pleased to find it. But well, uh it must really be fishy because the OED, as great as they are, has always sucked with food etymology anyway. Yeah, exactly. And this guy's our this guy put out this article because they wouldn't use his theory in the in the dictionary.
+
+[40:09] Oh, yeah. You know, and he he questions it pretty pretty strongly. As as you know, it's like why the English didn't mangle suddenly some somehow didn't mangle this one word out of all the words that they've mangled. You know, it's like, okay. There's that.
+
+[40:23] There's the fact that punch was uh an English word for kind of round things in general and bowls, etc. There's there's all kinds of stuff. Uh so one really does uh ha has grounds to to to question that etymology. Uh it it certainly shouldn't be printed as like gospel truth and moved on from as it is. Uh so it's it's a tangled tale, the history of punch.
+
+[40:44] It's it's it gets very complicated. There are lots of byways and and uh interesting factors that have barely ri been researched. So I'm sure somebody will write a book that will uh prove that everything I say in mine is wrong. Before we go, I realize that we've been talking about punch, but we haven't really told people who don't know what the hell punch is, who think it's Hawaiian punch maybe, what what punch is, and kind of like, you know, it's give a quick 'cause I because they're gonna make us leave soon. Let's give them a quick hit of what it is, and then let's talk about a couple of recipes maybe to give people an idea.
+
+[41:16] Oh, easy. Now uh originally punch, you know, we think of it as like frat house punch where you dump a bunch of stuff into a garbage can. Or then there's like the the food magazine punches with lots of sparkling wine and sliced fruits and they're very pretty and nice and and delightful. But punch was originally as serious as a martini. I mean, it was uh liquor and very strong flavorful liquor at that, uh water, sugar, citrus juice, nutmeg, uh tea, various spices, all put up in a bowl, ice came later.
+
+[41:48] Uh a very easy way to make punch, uh well, actually my favorite way, is you peel uh three lemons with a swivel bladed peeler, right? And put the peels to try to get as little of the white pith as possible. Put them in a bowl, put in six ounces, uh, you know, three quarters of a cup of super fine sugar, muddle them up together and let it sit for an hour, and you'll find that the lemon peel uh pulls out uh uh the the sugar pulls out all the oil from the lemon peel over that time, and you get this thick lemony paste that's delightful. Then add six ounces of lemon juice, stir it up, uh pour in a bottle of cognac or uh you can put in uh dark rum, navy rum, all kinds of good stuff like that. Uh ice and about a quart of water, great nutmeg on the top, and you're done.
+
+[42:40] And it's and really it's all about the fellowship. Yeah, it's all about sitting around with your friends, everybody drinking the same thing, sharing it, talking about it, uh talking about whatever, uh, and making sure you don't leave anything left in the bottom of the bowl. All right, well, you know, you can pre-batch certain aspects of your of your punch and make, for instance, you can make a batch with the with the citrus called. Yeah, you can leave the liquor out and and the water. Leave the liquor and and most of the water out, and you can bottle it and it will keep for a long time.
+
+[43:09] Right. And well, but it has a different flavor from fresh. It's an aged flavor, it's a different flavor in the shrub. Yeah, it's not quite as sharp and and bright, but it it if you let the solids settle out uh and and strain it, you'll get something that's pretty mellow and tasty. And by the way, not worse, just different.
+
+[43:23] Yeah, yeah. Yeah, yeah. Uh and a you know, but for all of those recipes, you um I apologize, you will have to purchase his book, which is coming out It's coming out November 2nd from uh Perigee Books. Uh you could probably pre order sooner than that on Amazon, and uh I encourage you to do that. Uh we have one more question that we're gonna leave with, but uh before we we're gonna actually leave on the question, so uh because it's a good one, it's always a a good one to answer, and I want to hear Dave's answer as well.
+
+[43:46] Uh, but you have been listening to cooking Issues today, brought to you by the Whole Foods uh Whole Foods uh Market. But here's the question we're gonna leave the show on. Uh it comes from Phil and uh Dave. If you go to a crap I'm gonna read this verbatim, okay. If you go to a crappy dive bar and your date wants a cocktail, what are the safe cocktails to order?
+
+[44:04] Well, I'll I'll get I'll I'll say what my uh wife Karen always ordered, which works incredibly well. Uh Myers on the Rocks with a splash of pineapple juice. There you go. Done. Done.
+
+[44:13] Finished. Contains its own instructions. Alrighty. Well, thanks. Thanks for coming in here.
+
+[44:19] Well, thank you so much. And this is fun. Thank well come again, please. You've been listening to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network. Oh, you dare got me on this corner.
+
+[44:36] And I don't know where I'm at. Supposed to meet my baby. You got my head all twisted. And I just can't get it straight.
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+[0:21] Hello, you're listening to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network, the show where you call in, hopefully, with your cooking related questions, technology related or not. The number to call into the studio here is 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. I'm here in the studio today with Cooking Issues Hammer Nastasha Lopez. And we have some uh email questions in.
+
+[0:45] But before that, today's Cooking Issues is brought to you by Fairway, like no other market. They have at least three locations I know of. One uh up in Harlem where I used to live, uh up where my studio was back when I did the art thing. They have a huge walk-in meat like meat refrigerator there, which is pretty nice. Uh great cheese section, uh, and then of course the original midtown, I guess uptown, really 70 and Chain Street on Broadway, and one right here in Red Hook, Brooklyn, close by to where uh our studio is.
+
+[1:10] So Fairway like no other market. Uh okay, so uh Nastasha, we had a couple of questions in uh via email. Last week and this week, yep. Yeah. So let's uh let's uh take a look at take a look at some of these.
+
+[1:21] Oh yeah, by the way, we're here from noon to 1245 every Tuesday. Uh okay. That's 718-497-2128. 718-497-2128. Okay, so uh we had a uh a question coming in from Richard.
+
+[1:37] It says, uh some friends and I saw Miracle Fruit on a TV show and ordered some powdered fruit to do a tasting experiment this weekend. Do you guys have any thoughts on this flavor inverting fruit? Have you tried it? How does it work? Yada yada.
+
+[1:49] Okay. Well, uh, yes, we uh we love the miracle fruit. There's a bunch of different ways you can get it. You can buy the fresh frozen berries, you can buy uh a freeze-dried powder, and you can also dry compressed uh tablets uh known as like miracle fruities or whatnot. No matter how you do it, right, uh the active principle uh from this, the the miracle fruit is uh a uh protein called miraculin.
+
+[2:12] And what what miraculin does, now you're you're talking on my memory because I haven't actually researched it in a in a long time, but if memory serves, what miraculin does is uh it binds to your sour receptors and causes uh sorry, it binds to your uh sweet receptors and causes things that taste uh sour, things that are acidic, to also activate uh your sweet uh your sweet sensors. So basically things that have acidity, things that are sour taste sweet. Now the effect doesn't last forever. You want to put it in your mouth, make sure it coats, don't swallow it right away, coat your whole tongue with it. And usually depending on how strong, uh how big a dose it is, how strong the one you have, it can last anywhere from like 15 minutes to half hour or so.
+
+[2:51] Uh and um basically anything that has acidity in it is gonna is going to be uh modified. Um the acidity actually doesn't go away, so the effect of when you're sucking on a lemon is that it tastes like lemonade. Typically, I mean people like to taste all sorts of things when they do it, like vinegar and you know, uh a friend of ours, Clifford, who was an intern at the French culinary with us, uh just graduated recently, used to do these flavor tripping parties, and he loved tasting like uh cheap tequila, he said tasted really good, right, Nastasha? Um things like radishes he really liked. But you know, I'm kind of an old school guy, and what happens is is uh I cut up like 10, 15, 20 limes, and then I just start sucking on the limes like like rapid fire because I can't get enough until my lips are bleeding from the acid and your stomach feels like it's about to drop out because uh remember it doesn't actually take the acid away, so it's still eating away your enamel and your lips and your stomach.
+
+[3:43] It's just you you feel compelled to to kind of keep eating them. Uh what else does Clifford really like? He liked uh we did vinegar. V yeah, vinegar, and she uh mentioned that hot peppers, he liked uh like uh jalapeno pepper said, did something, but you know, really just get an array of things that have any sort of acidity to them and then uh just start pounding them. I mean that's basically my recommendation.
+
+[4:03] Um right? No. What do you mean? No. Oh, you like you don't need all the acid.
+
+[4:07] Well, you know, Nastash's doesn't her iron uh you know constitution is not as iron as mine. So uh anyway, so yes, we highly recommend the uh miracle fruit. And if you want to do it under a controlled uh you know circumstances, come to the Harold McGee Lecture Series at the French culinary where we we not only eat miracle fruit, we also eat something called gymnemic acid, the sugar destroyer, which uh what happens is tastes awful. Tastes like you're uh like you're licking the uh bottom of a rabbit's cage or something. It's me, it's completely awful tasting, but that's not the point.
+
+[4:34] The point is it erases your sense of sweet. So anything that has sugar in it, all of a sudden the sugar is completely wiped out, but everything else stays the same. And it's we do you know, we do the miracle fruit, which is fun, and then we do the genemic acid, which is very, very instructive because it allows you to taste uh all kinds of products that you don't think of as being sweet, and then um basically seeing what happens when you actually do erase all sweetness from it. So um strawberries, I guess what you do think of as sweet, become preposterously acidic without uh w when the sense of sweet is knocked out. So these are things you can come experience live with Harold McGee at the uh Harold McGee Lecture Series.
+
+[5:10] I don't know where the next one is. October, November, something like that. You know, go to the uh French culinary website. Okay, uh thank you, Richard, for that question. Okay.
+
+[5:20] So we have a question in from Julia that says uh she's a a recent grad student. She uh grad student recently married and is beginning to invest in cookware that she wants to last basically forever and she wants to get a Dutch oven. I have a Dutch oven, I love my Dutch oven. She says that, you know, she looked at Staub and also at uh the uh La Crusay, and she doesn't like the plastic knob on the La Crusae, and she's like, why that why did why the hell do they use a plastic knob? Well, that plastic knob uh is true.
+
+[5:47] It's not, I mean, it's he you can put it in the oven, that plastic, but it does I mean I'll tell you from experience that knob does chip. Here's the good news you can unscrew that knob and put kind of any knob uh you want on it. Um I don't really know uh of the quality difference between La Crusade and Staub. Uh I think they're both uh I mean someone's gonna call in and tell me I'm a jerk for saying this. I haven't used a staub a lot, but I bet they're probably fundamentally similar.
+
+[6:11] Both of those Dutch ovens are enameled on the inside, so you have an enameled surface. You can also buy Dutch ovens that aren't enameled that are standard cast iron. Um the use of that's gonna be a little different. You want to be careful with your enameled cast iron that you don't get it too too too too hot over an open flame because you can get popping of the enamel. Uh I've had I've never had that happen to me, but I've had people report in.
+
+[6:31] If you go to the cooking issues website and look at our um cat we have a uh post on cast iron uh cookware and basically the heat properties of cast iron and you know kind of the myth, there's a lot of myths around what cast iron can and can't do and and you know why it's good and why it's not. And uh, you know, I spent a lot of time on that on that, trying to trying to think about that uh post. In fact, I was supposed to write it for somebody for uh for another magazine, and they they said it was too boring and technical. But anyway, but I still recommend you go look at it. Uh and and there's a bunch of people who commented in that post uh on um enameled cast iron specifically, and I believe Dutch oven and uh Dutch ovens and uh La Crusade.
+
+[7:06] So uh if you go to that post, you can check it out on www.cookingissues.com. Uh and by the way, I don't know why they use La Crusade on the Food Network uh instead of staub. I I guarantee you La Crusade gave them that stuff for free. So I mean I wouldn't I mean I have La Crusade at home that and I purchased it, but I wouldn't take the fact that it's on the food network as any indication of its quality versus uh staub. Um anyway.
+
+[7:28] Uh thank you, Julia. I hope that answers uh your question. And then uh this one I'm I'm literally just reading for the first time, so I'm not even gonna I don't even have the time to think about it. So you're gonna hear my first cuff reaction. It comes from Pete Stapleton in Detroit, and uh says, I know this must uh sound like a stupid question, but there's no there's no stupid questions.
+
+[7:47] Uh uh that's what they always used to tell me before I asked a stupid question. Uh I would love to hear Dave's advice for cooking pasta. What temperature is best? Does it matter if you boil quickly, then reduce heat, adding salt, etc. etc.
+
+[7:58] Okay. Uh I'm a novice who loves listening to the show. Thank you very much. I love you listening to the show. Uh and would like to uh answer some questions.
+
+[8:05] Okay, now here's the thing. There are uh so a friend of friend of ours, friend of the school, friend of the show, Cesare Casella, uh is uh, you know, renowned Italian chef uh from Tuscany here in the city. Just goes to show you how far afield from normal pasta cooking that you can go if you want to. Man sometimes cooks his pasta like a risotto. Now don't do this with something like that's you know long, but like thinner things that you can stir around.
+
+[8:28] He'll literally, like uh I th I think he does he he uh fries it a little bit first, right? Like a risotto, right, Nastasha? Yeah, it fries it a little bit first in water uh in uh in oil, just like a risotto, uh, you know, sautés, and then just starts adding liquid slowly and it's absorbing liquid, and then basically you keep all the starches then that are released, and it becomes like a creamy, creamy, uh creamy pasta. You're not losing all the starch to the cooking water. So if you want a starchy risotto-like thing, you can cook pasta that way.
+
+[8:52] That just shows how far afield you can go from normal pasta cooking uh and still get a good result. The tricks with pasta are this. One, yes, salt your water. Why? Not because it's gonna raise the temperature.
+
+[9:02] By the way, boiling water is probably the easiest temperature. I don't think it's really crucial, but just you know, boiling water is fine. Um the only time you don't want to go super boiling is when you're doing something delicate like a ravioli, it's gonna get the crap beat out of it in the thing and it's gonna explode. Then you want it then you want to lower the temperature of your of your water a little bit just so it's not rolling around. You want to use salt for flavor.
+
+[9:20] See uh, you know, the inside of pasta has relatively uh low salt, low flavor. I mean, you know, don't yell at me for that. But anyway, like uh add salt, uh mainly for flavor. It doesn't increase the temperature enough for it to uh make a difference. Um the other thing is you're you know you're gonna it doesn't you're gonna want to pull your pasta a little bit in in advance uh just because uh hopefully when you're adding it to a sauce, it's gonna integrate some of that sauce into the pasta and finish off cooking.
+
+[9:46] So you're gonna want to pull it uh a little bit early uh and then toss it. Uh sometimes if you have a really thin sauce, you could toss it uh, you know, over the heat a little bit and the pasta is gonna absorb absorb some of that sauce uh when it's when it's finishing. There's lots and lots to say uh about uh pasta and and cooking. Um, I would get a higher a higher quality pasta is also also gonna help. A pasta that's gone through uh uh really rough dye, holds on to sauce better bronze dye.
+
+[10:13] So, you know, go I would go go that way. But I encourage you to ask more questions and I will think longer and more specifically about your pasta questions. But I hope I've said something of interest to you, Pete. Please keep listening and thank you for your question. Oh, we have some callers on the line.
+
+[10:27] Uh who do we have? Hello. Hello. Oh. Hi.
+
+[10:35] How are you doing? Yeah, my name's Ernesto. I'm uh calling in from Boston. Hey, how are you doing, Ernesto? Oh, that's the topic you were just cut them.
+
+[10:44] Uh I also uh uh check out uh the uh ideas and food website pretty constantly. Your your website's awesome. I'm constantly on it. And there's the uh the whole pre-soak dry method that they've been trying. And I've been doing it yeah, with dry pasta where you pre-soaks, where you pre-soak it before you actually cook it to reduce the cooking time.
+
+[11:04] Right. Now I've been doing the trial and error and sometimes it gets a little too over soaked. Is there something have you ever experimented with this at all and have like more of a guideline or time kind of thing for me? No, now I now I feel bad. I have not experimented with this.
+
+[11:21] Uh Chesary ever experimented with this? No. No, I mean look, I mean like this is the kind of thing that sounds like a great technique. It's not so mu for me, it wouldn't be so much a uh I mean time, because I mean b pasta bowl is pretty darn quick, but it is a big energy savings. So y you know, and and big energy in terms of your uh you know, your heating bill, meaning your c your air conditioning bill in the summer when you're boiling water.
+
+[11:42] Is it mainly for energy savings or do they want to do it for time savings? Well, actually I uh uh uh Alex from uh Ideas and Food he infuses flavors into it where he did it where he did it with uh mozzarella water to actually add flavor to the pasta before. But see, I've tried it and I've gone a little too far and it seemed like the pasta was a little too soggy. It loses kinda like that al dente thing. Huh.
+
+[12:02] Yeah. Because you reduce the cooking time to maybe like two minutes. But the actual soak time, you know, I I guess as far as I've tried it with like uh spaghetti and and and pasta like that, but it seems like it works better with w uh thicker cut pastas. Right. I mean I I think the thinner it just gets too soggy, and I'm I'm just trying to gauge the time and wondering if you knew a kind of like a uh a basic um minimum time that you might need to with different sizes pasta.
+
+[12:29] But maybe that'd be something you guys can do for uh the the cooking industry's website too. I'll definitely check out I'll check out Alex's and uh Aki's thing and see what see what they're doing with it. I mean I mean I've cooked pasta in flavored stuff. I guess the advantage of soaking is it doesn't require quite as much, but the one of the issues you're gonna get a lot of leaching of flavor out when you do boil it back in in a large quantity of water. I mean that's something you might want to do risotto style the way Cesare does, um, unless you really don't want that creamy starchiness.
+
+[12:55] But I'm definitely I'll definitely check that out and um maybe we'll put something in the forums on it, right? Yeah. Anyway, by the way, thanks a lot for your question. It's definitely a lot to think about with pasta this morning. So thank you.
+
+[13:06] Okay, we have it someone else. Yeah, it's uh Hi, it's uh Ship from New York City. Hey, how you doing? I'm doing well, thanks. How are you?
+
+[13:15] I'm doing well. I've got a a question about uh meat glue. I well I kind of test it out, but I don't necessarily want to invest in a two-pound, you know, two-pound bag of it. Do you is there any you know local sources that we can use? Something that's a little more reasonable.
+
+[13:28] That's an excellent question. What do they charge now for a kilo? Uh like eighty-six, eighty-eight, something like that. Um this is something I need to investigate. It used to be that uh you could call up uh Bob Tanay, who's the local Ginamoto.
+
+[13:43] By the way, uh for those of you that don't know what's going on, people who aren't kind of like you know, tech tech people. Meat glue is an enzyme, transglutaminase that you can use to bind any two proteins together. It's uh it's derived from a soil enzyme, it's totally natural, it's destroyed by cooking. Uh there's no known um there's no known problems with it. I've read several, I've read like six, seven hundred pages on the safety of transglutaminates.
+
+[14:05] It's in your body right now. It's like part of the thing that helps your skin get created. It's part of the stuff that helps blood clot. Um this particular one is uh unique in that it doesn't require calcium. It's very easy to use.
+
+[14:14] You just sprinkle the powder onto meats, you put two two meats together and they and they stick together after about four hours. And you can glue anything, basically cow, donkey, chicken, moose, whatever. You can glue it all together, and it it it's not just for special effects, it really helps you make really nice portions that cook very consistency, it's very consistently very good. Problem is is that you have to invest in a uh a kilo of it and then uh you have to keep it in the freezer, otherwise it goes bad. It does last a long time in the freezer.
+
+[14:41] It used to be when you call Bob Tinay from the Ginamoto, who makes makes the stuff, he's the New York City rep for it, that you could um get a sample before you invested. Did they not do that anymore? Uh you know what I I I've been trying to get get a hold of him, but I haven't able to uh to reach out for him, but I'll try again and see if I can get a sample or something like a little more. Yeah, okay. Yeah, because the sample pack, they'll usually send you one sample pack.
+
+[15:05] They used to. I mean the the chef uh the the desire for it among chefs has really increased, and so it's not as easy, maybe. I don't know, I haven't tried in a long time. I'll tell you this though, you know, another way to do it, I don't think it's something because we don't buy that stuff in bulk, Mustacha. So we don't like it's not even we could we could it's possible that we could uh re repack it because I know but I don't know that they want us to repack it.
+
+[15:26] Do you know what I mean? Whereas like uh La Sanctuaire, I think they only sell it by the kilo as well, and uh Dairyland used to carry it here in New York, and I think they only sell it by the kilo. You're not gonna be disappointed. Let me put it that way. It's worth the eighty bucks.
+
+[15:38] You're not gonna be disappointed. It's like one of the great products in the world, but you want to keep it in your freezer uh because what happens is if there's any moisture, the uh the enzyme basically gets ruined, and then you're out um you're out the product. You know, so uh but it you're you're not gonna be sorry getting it, but try to get try to get a sample if you can. Uh and uh th thanks so much for your question. We have to go to our first break.
+
+[16:01] All right, fine. Thanks. How you feel, mate? I'm feeling all right. I don't want all people to know you're in here.
+
+[16:20] How you feel, fella? Yeah, yeah. Sure getting down. Look at him. We're gonna have a bump good time.
+
+[16:33] We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. Let's take them up, Brad. We gotta take you high.
+
+[17:09] Now I won't have everybody. Let's bread blow up by two corpses. And then I wanna wave in, let's go and do it. All right. I'm gonna get that belly with a little horn over there.
+
+[17:23] Brad, can it take us higher? Hello, you were listening to Cooking Issues, and this is Dave Arnold. Uh call in with all your cooking related questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. So, uh, well, we're waiting to see if we get another caller in.
+
+[17:41] So we have uh let's take some more email questions. Isaac Miller writes in from San Francisco saying he he wants to talk about ice, right? And so he he says there's a lot, he's it's aggravated there's so many pseudoscientific uh proclamations about how ice works uh and says he thinks he heard me say that large ice cubes will keep drinks colder with less less dilution than smaller ice. Heaven forfend. I have never I if I ever said anything that gave the impression that I said that uh you know, please expunge it from all sorts of records because that is clearly not the case.
+
+[18:18] Here let's let's go through this a little bit. Uh I'm gonna I'm gonna go into my feelings on ice for just a second. Uh okay, the fundamental rule of all cocktails, this is the fundamental rule of all cocktails. Remember, uh there is no remember, bar ice, ice in a bar, is at zero degrees Celsius. If you don't believe me, come to the lab, we'll run the test.
+
+[18:39] But once you take it out of the freezer within 20 minutes or so, all that ice is at zero degrees. Any deviation it is uh has from zero degrees is not going to affect the temperature of your final drink that much for reasons that are too complicated to go into now. But uh I mean if you take ice directly out of the freezer, obviously it will make a drink colder eventually if you shake, not necessarily if you stir. Very long story. Anyway, uh so assuming that the ice in your bar is at zero degrees Celsius, uh, here is the fundamental law.
+
+[19:04] This is the law, right? Uh there is no chilling other than through dilution, because the only way the ice can chill is through melting. And there is no dilution without chilling because it requires energy uh to melt the ice. So that ice has to chill when it is melting. So there's basically a one-to-one relationship.
+
+[19:26] So in the short term, when you're stirring or mixing a drink, you're not losing that much energy to the environment around it. Uh there's pretty much, you know, uh the temperature and the uh and and the dilution, the chilling and the dilution are linked together. Now it doesn't matter then uh what size the ice cube is or or or any or or anything really. Uh and the big ice cubes are definitely no more colder, ice is ice. I mean, for a gram per gram, uh ice at the same temperature all stores the same amount of uh energy.
+
+[19:55] Now, uh where where do things deviate? Uh the greater the surface area something has, I big ice has a low surface area to volume ratio. So a big chunk of ice is less efficient at chilling because it has less surface area and all the melting and chilling happens at the surface, right? So uh big ice is going to be less efficient. So when you're stirring with big big ice cubes, it takes longer to get down to the temperature that you want.
+
+[20:17] Um and consequently you're also losing more to the environment, probably, although these these effects are negligible. Uh smaller ice is going to chill relatively uh faster because it's going to have greater surface area. Now, the other problem is is that ice at zero has water on its surface, and the greater the amount of surface area, the more entrained water, the more water is present on the surface of your ice, right? Therefore, smaller ice is going to dilute your drink more because it has more entrained water on it. If you actually put your ice in a salad spinner or in a center fuge, should you have one, it's not really practical, I'm just saying, uh, then you I mean really just shake your ice out before you use it.
+
+[20:52] You get all the extra water off. The differences in dilution are going to be negligible. And we've done this through experiment, experiment, experiment, and the d and the differences are negligible. In a stirred drink, the speed at which you can get something to chill down with small ice means that you actually will dilute your drink more and it will get colder with small ice simply because you're not stirring long enough, typically, which could take up to a minute with a large chunk of ice to get your drink down to temperature. So ice, ice from a from a you know, physics standpoint, ice is ice.
+
+[21:22] And then the question is how much water is there on the surface, and what is the um and and then you know what what is the uh how much water is on the surface and what's your surface area. Those are the two important parameters, and then how effective are you? Shaking tends to be so effective that the ice really doesn't matter so much. Stirring it makes more of a difference. But I have not, because of my extreme laziness, done the post from Tales of the Cocktail where we're gonna discuss ice and stirring uh in great detail, the same way we did shaking last year.
+
+[21:50] Uh but I I hope this answers your question, and uh, you know, please put a comment on the blog and we'll talk, we'll talk more about it. Um next question from uh Richard. Oh no, we already did this one. We did the miracle fruit. Hmm.
+
+[22:05] Hmm. Have I answered all the questions? I don't think so. Well I might be missing a question, which case we'll come back to it. But uh but I have some some good news for eBay wins for myself.
+
+[22:17] Check this out. So uh you might know, uh list l you know, readers of the blog might know that we have several centrifuges over at the French culinary that I use, and I use them primarily for uh centrifuge is something that's spins, and with spinning it separates things based on density. And uh what is what what can I do with that? Well, we can make really delicious nut oils, like really mean super delicious, fresh, fresh nut oils. We can make we uh we take cured olives and we make an olive oil from it that I think is delicious, but some people think is is uh nasty, but I find it delicious.
+
+[22:45] I like it. Yeah. And then uh and she doesn't like anything, so that's a that's a ringing endorsement. Uh uh, but you know, recently what we've been doing is we have a technique where we add an enzyme, we blend fruit, and then we clarify and we make uh fruit juice. And that's mainly what we're doing with it now.
+
+[22:58] We're making gallons and gallons of different kinds of fruit juices every day, but strawberry juice, peach juice, apricot juice, plum juice. I mean, bang, bang, bang, bang, bang, bang, bang. Well, anyway, centrifuges are expensive. Um there's one sweet spot in the centrifuge market, and that's uh for for chefs, and that's uh what's called a three-liter bench top, um, a three-liter bench top uh centrifuge. They have swinging buckets in them, they take uh three liters, they hold three liters of four seven hundred and fifty milliliter buckets, and they can all do roughly um four thousand G's.
+
+[23:27] Now this is the sweet spot because four thousand G's is enough to do almost everything we want to do uh in the lab uh in the lab, in the kitchen, with the exception of clarifying lime juice, but I have other techniques for that. It's relatively small, relatively inexpensive, relatively safe, relatively easy to use. This is something that I think more more chefs would get. Anyway, uh I buy one that's uh Zhuan is the model from Thermoscientific. I buy it because these are out the company's out of business, but there's still a lot of these on the market and they're relatively inexpensive.
+
+[23:55] Um I just got one, a refrigerated centrifuge. This thing's worth probably when I say cheap, it's worth probably two grand, right? One to two grand uh on eBay. Ninety-nine bucks. $99, $79 shipping.
+
+[24:08] This thing shows up, right? I bought it because it said uh that it wasn't working, right? It said it wasn't working. Display doesn't come on, lights don't come on. Let me tell you something.
+
+[24:16] If any of you out there are uh you know what I'm talking about, if you do troubleshooting on equipment, if you don't, listen, this sounds counterintuitive. Uh what you want is to plug something in and have nothing happen at all. Well, because what this means is something probably happened very early on in the system. Something probably fairly easy to fix, right? Right?
+
+[24:35] You know, you don't want to hear that it powers on and the numbers come on and it spins at like one quarter speed and then craps out halfway through spin. Like this kind of stuff, this is difficult to troubleshoot, right? But nothing at all happening, bueno, right? So we order this thing, we come in, I crack the thing open, blown fuse. Seriously, a blown fuse.
+
+[24:52] So now we have for like $179, including shipping, a an almost, you know, it relatively new considering the company went out of business, but like basically pristine refrigerated three-liter centrifuge that I'm gonna modify with a stroboscope so that we can take pictures of uh things clarifying and make them look like they're standing still. It's gonna be crazy. It's like seriously pimped out. I'm gonna pimp the hell out of this thing. It's gonna be like a pretty cool centrifuge.
+
+[25:14] Anyways, so um, yeah, so it just goes to show, like with a little bit of troubleshooting and a keen eye for eBay, you know, you guys out there can get some serious, serious deals. Now, here's my other recommendation. This thing came from a blood lab, right? Which means you want to uh clean the hell out of it. So what we did is we we basically soak the inside of this sucker with in chlorine, uh, and that's not even gonna touch food that we're ever gonna eat, but just chlorine the hell out of it.
+
+[25:37] Then I chlorine the hell, well, I should say the interns clorine. I didn't do I didn't do squat. Anyway, yeah. So we chlorine the hell out of the buckets, right? And then we pressure cook the buckets because a pressure cooker is like a poor person's uh autoclave.
+
+[25:49] But what you want to be careful when you're pressure cooking to sterilize, you want to be really careful to make sure that all of the uh air is out. You want to have the the buckets actually underneath the surface of the water when you're pressure cooking because otherwise you can have uh air bubble trap that might not get up to temperature, and uh at least this is what I say, I don't really know. This is what they say on the sterilizer websites. So I just make sure that the buckets are all the way underwater. We pressure cook them for like 20 minutes.
+
+[26:12] Uh they're made out of aluminum, so the you know, all of the the heat goes into it and it kills whatever might possibly ail you in those things. So it came from a blood lab. Stasi, you've been drinking, you've been drinking juice out of a blood lab for like a year now. Alright? I mean it's like, you know, it's a question of can you clean the thing properly?
+
+[26:28] Are you taking the right steps to clean it? Yes, yes, we are. Yes. Anyway. So that is the saga of our $179 uh centerfuge worth two grand.
+
+[26:39] That's making me extremely, extremely happy. You you you know, you don't know joy until you've opened up a piece of equipment and seen that really is just a blown fuse that's causing it to not to not work properly. I feel kind of sorry for the people who didn't take the trouble to troubleshoot it, but not that sorry. Um it cost you three dollars to fix it. You only got shocked once.
+
+[26:57] Well, a little bit shocked. A little bit. Not a lot shocked. No. No.
+
+[27:01] But I'm glad I opened it up actually, because uh these centrifuges have what's called an imbalance sensor in them, so that when you're not balanced as they're spinning, because all hell breaks loose if the centrifuge isn't balanced. Uh I mean like all hell, I mean like really bad, like makes a bad loaded washer seem like nothing. Anyway, so uh uh anywho, the the imbalance sensor was uh was disconnected, so I did get to catch that. So I'm kinda glad I opened the thing up because some knuckleheaded disconnected the inbound switch, and you that's not something you want to have disconnected. You just what happens when when when it senses it's not balanced, it just shuts the whole thing off right away, which stops it from uh uh flying apart.
+
+[27:36] Yeah. Yeah. Here's the question. Okay. Uh let me see.
+
+[27:39] Oh, well, we have two minutes, so. Oh, we have two minutes? All right. So let me see. Let's see what the oh, by the way, if you have any questions, call in to 718-497-2128, 718-497-2128.
+
+[27:53] So uh I'm gonna probably start this question and then probably have to go to it after break. Uh Paul uh Paul Kay writes in and says, uh, I'd be grateful uh if you could answer my question about uh getting meat soft. He's cooking for a population for whom food s food safety is the utmost important and the meats must be very tender. Okay. Um and so he's saying with with chicken, he doesn't have a problem getting these characteristics, tenderness, taste, and moin moistness, but he's having difficulty with turkey, everyone does.
+
+[28:17] Everyone does brother, like unless you use low temper sous vide and beef. And because food safety issues, he's hesitant to use sous vide, um, you know, he wants to get him as hot as possible without without really you know beating them to heck. Okay, well here's the thing. First my pitch for Sous vide. First of all, sous vide, I don't know where the regulations are uh where where you are.
+
+[28:35] I understand uh your trepidation in using them because if you use it improperly um you know it might might have problems. But sous by the way for those of you that don't know is uh is uh where you put a uh food in a in a bag you seal it you remove the oxygen you seal it you cook it uh and then you know you can re-therm it and uh and then serve it. Uh properly done, Sous vide is the safest, uh basically the safest of all cooking techniques and it allows you to get the the entire thing up to temperature. So if you're willing to take the time and investment to do it, I think Sous vide is actually incredibly s safe way to provide very very high quality uh items. Well barring that you could get uh uh a combi oven that can cook at a relatively accurate temperature for something like turkey you know I would want to take it to like uh sixty five uh at least and once you once sixty not at least but I mean sixty five actually at maximum for me but sixty five Celsius uh is enough if you cook it long enough to kill anything in there right uh and at the same time it's still gonna be very very moist.
+
+[29:34] So if you had a combi oven um they're quite expensive if you don't have space for that we could get you get a CVAP oven which basically is uh like a holding oven with a bain marie in it. It was developed for Kentucky fried chicken. It holds a fairly accurate temperature, and you could cook your turkey uh in in there uh at at 60 64 to 65. I think you're gonna really, really like the results. It's gonna be extremely tender, extremely juicy, and extremely safe, and not require any extra regulations.
+
+[29:59] Uh we have to go to break. I'm gonna think a little bit about beef, maybe, and we'll come back with some beef uh recommendations uh in a minute. We've got to payback. I need some get back. Payback.
+
+[30:30] Payback payback. I'm mad to get down with my girlfriend. That ain't right. Whoa! Holland cast.
+
+[31:00] Hey back, here's the thing, you got to see. Never do any damn thing to me. Sold me out the chicken chain. Told me that they had all the rain. Now you're pumped.
+
+[31:31] Welcome back to Cooking Issues, the show where we take on your cooking issues, most often technically related cooking issues, but not always. Uh, call in to the studio at 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-222-2822. We're going to be here for at least another 15 minutes, maybe more if you if you call with a really compelling question, right, Nastasha? Yes, please call.
+
+[31:53] Alright, so uh before the last break, I was answering uh Paul's question about how to cook meats so that they're tender and also extremely uh safe. Uh presumably someone who has trouble, you know, man, I don't know, maybe like a uh I don't know, someone who can't chew something to the needs really tender, but they also really safe, maybe someone immunocompromised old I didn't want to say it that way, Nastasha, but you know, thanks for just you know saying that. Awesome, great. Okay. Hope hope we haven't offended anyone out there.
+
+[32:19] So uh anyway, so uh we discussed turkey, which I thought should be cooked uh probably between depends, like breast meat, um leg meat, you need to go at least sixty-five uh Celsius from a taste standpoint, not really from a safety standpoint. You can cook it lower if you cook it for a long time. You have the temperature times um and c and you know that on our on our website on cooking issues, you can take a look at Doug Baldwin, I think also has that, uh has some safety uh guidelines uh on his website in his new book. Um but to beef. So uh with beef, um it depends on on how you want to cook it.
+
+[32:51] If you don't want to cook it sous vide, but you want to do low temperature, which is really the only way to guarantee you're not gonna overcook uh the items. Now, if you're gonna do a braise, right? We can all do braises without necessarily overcooking the meat. But if you want to do something that's not a braise and you still want to remain tender, you want to guarantee safety, you're gonna have to cook it for a fairly long time. Um and you want to do lower temperature, I would recommend getting something like a CVAP oven and uh as describing it before, it was invented for Kentucky Fried Chicken to hold Kentucky Fried Chicken, and it's basically uh a hot box with a with a water bath in the bottom.
+
+[33:22] And the water bath means that you can um really kind of accurately control the temperature. In a regular oven, you can't accurately control the temperature because uh A, the the uh you're not getting a lot of good unless it's convection, you're not getting uh really good heat transfer, and plus you're getting evaporative cooling. Moisture is always evaporating off the surface of your food, lowering its temperature. So it's really impossible to judge the internal temperature based on the oven's temperature uh with you know regular cooking. In a CVAP, you can set the uh humidity at a hundred percent on the inside, and you can really, really dial in exactly the internal temperature and really uh make sure that something is cooked all the way through and yet is still gonna remain juicy.
+
+[33:56] So I'd look at that, but I would really also look into g doing low temperature work with a circulator and sous vide, uh, because I you know I think that once you make the leap uh into Sous vide, the the fantastic thing about Sous vide is that there's very little potential for recontamination of a product, and so you can have products that uh are cooked and kept in really good shape and are very, very safe. Uh I mean there really is no safer way to do it other than you know than sous vide, so long as it's done properly. I mean um you know the the dangers obviously with you know with sous vide is that you don't uh you don't thermally process properly and that you you might leave bacteria in or you might not refrigerate it properly and you might get things growing in the bag like botulism, but you know, in a properly treated product, that's just not that's not gonna happen if you just treat treat the food properly. So I uh Paul, I hope that answered your question. And now uh maybe I will talk about some stuff that we're we're working on uh at the school, huh?
+
+[34:51] Yes. So uh we've been working on water. So for those of you that haven't read uh Fix the Pumps, Fix the Pumps is a book by uh uh Darcy uh O'Neill. It's uh basically saying uh, you know, we should take a look at um the soda fountain. So the soda fountain was uh you know phenomenon in uh in U.S.s uh back in the day, uh, you know, where you would go and they would make sodas for you, but it was a lot more than that.
+
+[35:14] It had a lot there was a lot going on a lot of recipes a lot of artistry a lot of XY and Z. So go check out the books uh fix the pumps um you know it's a lot of interesting stuff going on you should read it um now uh what I was most interested in was a section where he started giving recipes for making your own mineral water uh you know in in the vein of other famous mineral waters like you know seltzer was originally water from a place in Germany uh I forget Seltzin or something like that the town up until actually a uh like a decade or two ago you could buy that particular water um and then um you know you know all the famous waters you can you that's known constituents like a Polinaris uh Grollsteiner all these things and so we give some of these recipes so we started uh experimenting with making our own our own mineral waters now I can't you know you know me I can't be normal about this so you go on Google Books and it turns out you can get all kinds of books from the uh late 1800s that have all of the all of the constituents of all the famous mineral waters at the time because people were obsessed with the medicinal qualities of these various different bottled waters. And there's a couple of main constituents that you want to you want to get and so rather than trying to actually make any of the recipes what we did is we we just got all of the constituents so uh we you know we bought calcium chloride actually I have that because we use that when we use uh alginate tastes god awful it's like it's it's hideously terrible stuff but it's in some famous waters in small amounts uh magnesium chloride right magnesium chloride is better known uh to people as bittern or uh nigari it's used to as a tofu coagulant um uh so we you know we got some of that uh NACL, better known as salt, uh, is in a lot of things. Uh calcium chlor uh and then we also got so those are all the chlorides we tasted. Um you know, and by the way, you see these uh these waters and they're and they they list you know calcium chloride, magnesium chloride, like they once they go into water, they just turn into ions anyway.
+
+[37:11] So it's not like it's not like the calcium knows it belongs to the chloride as opposed to the calcium belonging with the carbonate. So anyway, uh okay. So then we also used uh magnesium uh sulfate, which is Epsom salts, which uh I'll get into later. You don't want to put too much Epsom salts into your uh waters. You know, one of the things people used to like about bottled waters uh was bottled waters that were known as purgative, which is fancy for makes you poop.
+
+[37:35] So you want to you want to stay away from pounding too much magnesium sulfate water uh as I unfortunately found out. Uh so we have magnesium sulfate, we had calcium sulfate, we had calcium carbonate, uh sodium bicarbonate, and uh potassium uh potassium bicarbonate, I think. Yeah. Uh anyway, yes, potassium bicarbonate. Uh and so we basically tasted all of these things uh separately to see kind of what they tasted like.
+
+[38:00] So in a different concentration. So when we were doing all the chlorides, like calcium chloride, magnesium chloride, sodium chloride, we tasted them two ways. One where there were equal amounts of the metal ion in it, right? So equal amounts of calcium versus magnesium versus sodium in the water, and then we tasted it with equal amounts of uh chlorine, you know, uh you know, the chloride ion in it. So equal amounts of Cl.
+
+[38:20] And um what we noticed is what we thought the calcium taste calcium chloride tastes like death. Uh in lower concentrations, it's not as bad, but it has a bitterness. Um then you know, the salt one obviously tasted like salt. The magnesium one was was sweet and kind of uh almost had a milky taste, which was strange because the calcium didn't. Um but uh when we carbonated then the very high amount of one, it all of a sudden went bitter, something that we didn't have when we were tasting it on its own.
+
+[38:49] Uh but we were using much higher concentrations than you would actually use in a normal mineral water. Um then in the carbonates, we actually really liked the uh the calcium carbonate water and it really modified the bubbles. Because I only care, but by the way, I only care about bubbles. Don't give me flat water, which is like spoiled, spoiled seltzer water. I hate it.
+
+[39:07] Flat water is an abomination. Uh you want bubbles in your water at all at all times. If you're me, I mean bubbles, bubbles, bubbles, bubbles, bubbles. And when you have the calcium carbonate in, uh it modifies the bubbles um and makes it look kind of less effervescent, I would say, but also kind of you know smoothed it out. So the problem with calcium carbonate is that it's not very soluble.
+
+[39:25] So uh really to make it soluble and not taste chalky, we added a little bit of uh we added a little bit of uh phosphoric acid, which you know uh allowed us to dissolve the thing in. And so we made a bunch of this water. We ended up liking magnesium sulfate was sweet and taste refreshing, but makes you poop. So you want to watch out for it. The calcium carbonate tastes like chalk unless you can get uh get it all in solution.
+
+[39:47] The calcium sulfate was not as chalky. Uh calcium sulfate is gypsum, which is another thing that they is used for uh coagulating tofu. Also, I think will make you poop in large quantities. Uh Nastasha, you enjoyed the uh the potassium bicarbonate. Maybe we should work with that a little more.
+
+[40:02] And I kind of like the the sodium bicarbonate in little amounts, which is baking soda. Um so anyway, we're trying combinations of these things, but we're working on our own kind of what we think is like the best tasting blend uh to to make it uh kind of a refreshing, maybe a little more refined mineral water rather than our normal, like hypercarbonated nitrous uh CO2 water, which is also delicious, but we're anyway, it's something we're working on. Uh now, um anything to add on that, Nastasha? I don't like any of the ones you've made. Oh, Jesus Christ.
+
+[40:31] You know, the thing is like i you don't like it because here's the thing. She's like, here I swear to God, folks. Uh, she was like, I like that, what's in it? And I was like, sodium bicarbonate. She's like, I hate it.
+
+[40:41] Right or wrong. A little bit. Yeah. I mean, like you you are very, you know, easily swayed by you know, knowing what's in it or not. Anyway.
+
+[40:48] Uh so I found something out interesting. I was researching uh a book called uh the mineral waters of Europe from the eighteen eighties, uh, by a guy named Tishborne, and I was downloading on Google Books because I love downloading things on Google Books, which is like one of the greatest uh things in all the all the world is Google Books. All of these public domain books are available. Basically, you can have the state-of-the-art knowledge from uh anything in the in the late 1800s before, and some of their state of the art knowledge is good, particularly with water, uh not in terms of science, but in terms of the actual composition of somebody's waters, soda, things like that. Uh I read you know I do lots of research on it.
+
+[41:22] Um and anyway, so I downloaded this thing by Tishborne, and I had this interesting story which I will relate to you in the next two minutes. Uh I came upon this by accident. There is this uh there is this thing in England called the Tishborne Dole, right? Dole like Bob Dole, but you know, dole meaning giving things out, right? And uh, and so basically, here's the story.
+
+[41:42] In the 1100s, the uh Baron Tishborne was a cheap, cheap, cheap, cheap bastard, right? Cheap bastard. His wife was nice. And his wife, she was on her deathbed, and she said, I don't remember his name, Baron, you know, I really wish you would give you have all this great farmland uh and you don't give any of the proceeds of that farmland to the poor. Please give some of the proceeds of this parm farmland to the poor.
+
+[42:04] He was like, No, because he's a cheap bastard. And then she said, Please, please, I'm dying, please. You know, give some of the proceeds of land to the poor. No. So he says, listen, finally, because he was a real dick.
+
+[42:18] He says, uh, listen, um, I will I will donate as proceeds uh to to the poor all of my land that you can walk around under your own power carrying a torch. Now it was like it was like winter time and she was dying, right? Right. She gets up, gets up, gets a torch, crawls around twenty-three acres of the Tishborn property with a lit torch before she collapses and the torch goes out, right? To this day, that this is all true, by the way, this is not like you know, horse hockey.
+
+[42:48] Like uh they to this day that area of land is called the crawl. So as she's dying from doing this, she basically says, Okay, you are gonna give the proceeds of this twenty-three acres in perpetuity to the villagers here, or uh there's a curse on you, you will have set the the house of Tishborn will have seven sons followed by seven daughters, at which point the name will be extinct and the house will fall in ruins. They continue this dole uh since the 1100s. They had one break in the dole starting in the late uh 1700s, uh so it goes from the eleven hundreds to the seventeen late 1700s, uh, and they stopped because uh the authorities said that there was a there was a like a the disturbance. And then swear to well, according to the history, they had seven sons uh in the Tishborne family, and then they couldn't start producing sons.
+
+[43:32] They started only having daughters, and all the sons were dying uh soon after they were born. They petitioned to restart the dole, they restart the dole. One son survived that had a son, and the Tishborn name was propagated again. In the in the late 40s, there was flour rationing after the war, and they thought they were gonna stop the Tishborne dole again. And people from all over the country of England uh sent flour, their flour rations to the Tishborne so that they could uh still distribute it out.
+
+[43:57] Every uh every inhabitant of Tishborne uh is is allotted one gallon of flour a year and every child's allotted half a gallon a year and they still get uh you know a couple tons of flour in every year they bless it with holy water sprinkle it out and dole it out to the uh to the people so here's to the Baron of Tishbourne and his dole thank you for listening to Cooking Issues I'm Dave Arnold here with Nastasha Lopez Vishus
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+[0:23] Hello, you're listening to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network coming to you live every Tuesday from 12 to 1245. I am uh Dave Arnold, the host of Cooking Issues, the show where you call in and ask all sorts of cooking related questions, whether technical or not. Uh today I'm in the studio with uh Nastasha Lopez's cooking cooking issues owned hammer and special guest. We're very excited to have Jeffrey Steingarden, one of the great writers on food uh of all times, the food critic of Vogue and uh personal friend of mine. Hi, Jeffrey, thanks for coming.
+
+[0:55] Hi, Dave. Hi, Natasha. So uh actually we have some email questions in while we're waiting for oh, by the way, the number to call 718-497-2128-718-497-2128. Uh, don't miss this opportunity to call in and ask Jeffrey a question. Uh we had some email questions that came in, um, kind of, you know, stirring things up a little bit.
+
+[1:17] Uh Greg wants to know, uh, I'm pretty sure Jeffrey can't answer this but for contractual reasons, I guess, but he has to ask, really, how seriously do you take Iron Chef America? It seems like this is really just a faux competition, and it's a great way to get publicity for great regional chef cooking more than national expo uh uh for more national exposure. What do you what is your response? You don't have to answer this if you don't want to. Oh, I'd love to answer it.
+
+[1:38] Oh, perfect. Um I take it seriously, and I've found out about chefs by being a judge. The um uh I almost never really light into a chef from outside of New York. Because they're usually a a hero in their hometown. Uh the last thing they need is to to be on the show and uh and have their reputation destroyed.
+
+[2:10] The only people I'm really mean to are the iron chefs when they do something that's not to uh not particularly good or really awful and uh or or disgusting. And um people from out of town obviously start looking for national publicity. Um and the good ones, like David Kinch, for example. David told me that after his appearance on Iron Chef he won. Uh that he's never had an empty seat in his restaurant, which is as you may know, in a very remote place in in um Silicon Valley.
+
+[2:50] I can't even remember the name of the town. Los Gatos. Mountain View or you know, one of those. It's in Los Gatos, isn't it? What?
+
+[2:56] Isn't it Los Gatos manies? But it's only remote to Jeffrey because he lives in New York and then was in Southern California, so he doesn't believe in that northern California source. I know so I like Northern California, but this is in uh in between. Also Los Gatos uh means the cats. Yeah, yeah, not doesn't both less.
+
+[3:17] That's true. And by the way, on a personal note, uh I've known Jeffrey many years and he does take this sort of thing very seriously. There's there's very little about food that he does not take seriously. Um that has been my been my experience. We have two callers apparently, so rather than make them wait, why don't we uh why don't we take one of them?
+
+[3:33] Okay. Hello? Hey, uh I have a question. Um I wanna know like food myth. You know, people say you can't eat oysters uh without if a month doesn't have an R in it, and you know, white wine with fish.
+
+[3:48] I was wondering if you could like dispel some of I mean, including that oyster one, dispel or confirm some of these food myths that uh my generation grew up with. Uh um, I don't know what generation yours is. Actually, you sound familiar. I I I think I recognize that voice. I believe that's the one and only Patrick Martins, but I'm not sure.
+
+[4:09] I figured I could call in rather than walk across the street. I see. Well, actually, the whole idea of oysters in a month with R is only that you're s it is to not the greatest thing to have oysters um in um you know, from warm water. That's why I'm always a little suspicious of uh Gulf oysters. Yeah.
+
+[4:31] And the Gulf Oysters are also, I mean, before the oil that's spilled and everything, they were the only ones that used to possibly give the uh you know, contain vibrio. And um Right, which is why they're subjected to that ultra high pasturiz uh ultra high pressure pasteurization technique, which I've never tasted whether they're any good or not after that's been done, you know, where they put it under I've never tasted it at all, but why bother when you can have real oysters? Yeah, that's true. That's true. Um now as for white wine fish, no, I that's all silly and uh and um Yeah.
+
+[5:03] But you know, white wine doesn't generally go with steak. I mean it's it's generally too weak, but uh too soft. But red wine goes with fish, we know that that right. Yeah, yeah. They they've cut him off, so he he can no longer reply to us, but I'm sure he's agreeing.
+
+[5:20] Well, I wonder whether he knows any um uh uh old wives tales stuff regarding pig jowls, because I just ordered a pink gel from him. Really? Well I'm sure that'll go with with many different things depending on how you how you cook it. Right. Are you gonna cure it or are you gonna cook it?
+
+[5:36] I did cure it. Oh yeah? But only for a short time. I mean I actually got the recipe from Carlo at Verbertus. Oh, nice.
+
+[5:44] All right. Well, a very fine chef. You'll have to invite me to try some. Do we still have that second caller on the line? I think so.
+
+[5:50] Yes. Hello? Hello. Hi. How are you guys doing?
+
+[5:55] Doing well, doing well. Excellent. So I actually have uh sort of continuing the the non technical question theme today. Um young chefs and and aspiring Tamaliers are always sort of admonished to develop and expand their palates. I figured you guys and Mr.
+
+[6:11] Seingarden would be a great place to start with. What does that mean? How do you go about developing your palate? Is that a active process? Is that something that just develops over a lifetime of work?
+
+[6:23] Well, you you happen to hit one of Jeffrey's big pet pees about people that talk about food in general is that they haven't eaten enough, so I'm gonna give it to uh Jeffrey. But I remember there was a uh a young man who was just graduating but from high school. He wanted to be a food writer or a chef, but and it turned out that he was kosher I mean that he had a grown up kosher and I ban he kept on wanting to know what book to read or but and I told him the main thing is just eat everything you can. I mean you've eaten so little in your life and um but it also kind of helps t to eat new things with people who know. So for example, if you go to Italy for the first time, um and you're eating food you've never had before, or you or you've only had it in America, then it kind of prepays to eat with a native, I mean with the native who knows what the uh you know what he or she is doing, t to uh just so you can get a sense for what you're looking for.
+
+[7:24] There's also all of us have about the same taste buds. I mean, there are super tasters, but I don't have to worry too much about them. But you develop your uh your sense of taste or your uh uh your ability to you know to distinguish, I think, uh by putting words on it. And um therefore, all those taste words that sound so uh so pretend well the ones that are too abstract are obviously too pretentious. But taste words can be very, very useful.
+
+[7:55] And then finally in the uh in the introduction to my first book, uh um I described how I became a perfect omnivore by undergoing uh an intense program that I had devised myself. And uh and it was um I wanted it to rid myself of all preferences, um, positive and negative. So for example, whenever I would go to a restaurant, a good restaurant, I would order only things I didn't like, but or that I thought I didn't like. What about NATO? Down, that was easy.
+
+[8:52] But to later, about a year later, um, I I uh did become a uh I'm an absolutely perfect omnivore by um well by eating some really delicious um bamboo worms, uh deep fried bamboo's uh uh in Thailand, they're like French fries, just as long as you don't look at the little face on the end. And um and I was in India, I was in that paid in Punjab, and I had some home cooked uh meals, and those desserts were just delicious when they're made right. So you've come to terms with the aptly named Barfey? Oh, yes. Yeah, okay.
+
+[9:28] Uh but you know, this advice from Jeffrey, I think really you should take this to heart. I think to become a critical cook or a critical eader, even if you don't uh like something, it's wise to eat enough of it so that you can at least distinguish what's going on, uh, even if you can't make yourself like it, as Jeffrey was able to. Um, I think we have another caller. Yes, we do. All right.
+
+[9:49] Hello. Hi. Hello. My name Hi, this is Matthew. I'm actually calling you from the Los Angeles International Airport getting ready to take a flight.
+
+[9:57] But I didn't want to miss the opportunity to ask you this question. Where are you going? I'm going to Sacramento today. Not as far away, huh? Uh dreaming.
+
+[10:08] Yeah. Sacramento's a really bad food city, by the way, but that's a whole other subject. Wow. But you know, there is a uh there's a very good Shi, a very good sushi place uh in Los Angeles, and I'm not one of those uh you know who thinks that Los Angeles is is overflowing with good sushi places. Um but there's sushi mori, and he uh grows his own uh rice near Sacramento.
+
+[10:34] Oh, really? Yeah, so there's an example of a good thing about Sacramento. Since you're in the airport though, well, let me get to your question before they make you get on your airplane. You got it. I I know that you've been a guest judge on Iron Chef quite frequently.
+
+[10:48] Yes. And my question is given how much they do and the very narrow time period they have to cook and all the shortcuts they have to take, how good is the food really? How does it compare to say uh uh a really good first class restaurant in New York or Los Angeles? Good question. Well, I was surprised at how uh good the food was.
+
+[11:13] Um obviously it's not always good, but almost all the time the actual Iron Chefs, I mean I was naturally I was I was skeptical about it all. Um the main three Iron Chefs and also Michael Simon, you know, you really want to eat what they're cooking. And um or most of the dishes that they're cooking. Um and a lot of the challenges too. Now I'm I'm trying to think of see this is yuppie food.
+
+[11:46] But you have to understand that. It's um the Mary Sue and uh pan uh uh Pan Susan and then maybe only one other two other two other cooks that I've seen have actually cooked to uh what you might call old fashioned food. Food that's extremely good, but it's not colorful. It's not in small pieces, it's not um intensely flavored. It's probably you might call it comfort food.
+
+[12:17] That doesn't go so well in Iron Chef. Um did they win? No, they lost, but they probably should have won. But uh their food was very good. Um I think it may have been my fault that they didn't win, actually.
+
+[12:37] I feel bad. Because they're very good coach, and their food is just so good to eat. It doesn't uh you know, surprise you, it doesn't astound you. It's um well so anyway, that's what I have to say. It but you know the food can be very good, but as I say, it is yuppie food.
+
+[12:57] But but uh food that is is uh made to kind of surprise you. Um combinations you've never had before. It's uh the it's uh very hard to judge combinations you've never had before. Um is um for example, Wiley Dufresne but when he was a challenger, he did a f a fabulous job until dessert. Right, and then there was a combination, there was a smear of uh by the way, he's Dave's brother-in-law.
+
+[13:28] And I was at the taping for this, so I have some hard feelings about this, so yes. And it was a papa in the dessert there was a smear of chocolate and a smear of licorice. First of all, Jeffrey hates this sort of brushwork on a plate. He has a personal bias against it. He actually thinks it's evil.
+
+[13:44] No, I actually did not have a personal bias then. I do have a personal bias now, uh, only because you have to work very hard to get that stuff off the plate into your mouth. And uh and if it's really good, why do you have to do that? Uh you know, and the thing on this dessert, it was a coffee was it coffee flavored couscous, or is that not in the dessert? It's been a long time uh since that happened.
+
+[14:03] But uh it was between Mario Batali and my brother in law Wiley Dufresne, and I'm sure I tasted none of it. I'm sure that uh Mario's food was delicious, right? Uh, Wiley had attempted a much more kind of uh a mental thing, a a text a textural tasting of tilapia. tilapia, which is a vile, vile, vile fish. Mario, I think made the smart play, which is uh, you know, cover the tilapia with all sorts of flavorful stuff, and uh Wiley, I think, took the harder and I guess in the end, less successful route of uh trying to work with the fish itself.
+
+[14:34] What do you what are your thoughts? Uh, they I would agree with you if you were correct. I love that. Oh man. In my story, in my metal score, because you don't actually score until the end, Wiley was winning by a hair, because Mario is very hard to beat.
+
+[14:52] I mean, he's so but he knows how to do Iron Shaf, right? Or or knew he's not on it anymore, uh because he's probably too rich. Um Mario was fantastic, but and also but also very inventive, too. So it but it wasn't as though Mario, you know, took a a cubic a um say you know a cubic centimeter of a tilapia and uh had covered it with spaghetti or something. It was like two cubic centimeters.
+
+[15:19] Tilapia is an evil fish and uh very bad fish, but in any event Well wait, let's get to the nitty-gritty. Remember how they killed some live tilapia on that, and I believe Mario used one of the live tilapia that was killed, served it to the other judge, and she found it inedible because it was too tough, and then said that it wasn't Mario's fault, it was the fish's fault. This was cut from the airing, but basically she got served a piece of ex basically inedible tilapia, and how did that not get put into the store scorings? Do you remember this? I'm sure it was.
+
+[15:49] My story, however, didn't involve her tough fish. Uh because how do I know that it was tough? Right. Well, I actually asked her for a piece. Oh, she didn't give it to you?
+
+[15:59] I don't remember whether she gave it to I don't remember that. But as I was saying while he was not marked out for anything else he did, his food was sort of uh compared to most of his food, conventional and delicious. I mean after all but after all he worked at uh the the uh but very successfully Jean George. I mean while he knows how to cook many kinds of food but it was only the dessert. No one liked the dessert.
+
+[16:25] So but you know I guess he got way marked off because of that. It was only the dessert Dave it was not anything else. All right all right well well before we go to our first commercial break I will answer one of the caller one more I'll take the caller and then after the commercial break I'll answer an email question about uh purging clams. All right caller Hello Hello Hi. Hi.
+
+[16:48] W what is your question? Oh great I'm on the air. Yep. Excellent. Um I have a souffle related question.
+
+[16:58] Um so I'm a private chef and my main client loves it when I make a souffle. Problem with the souffle you have to start it and finish it when you're gonna serve it. So I've been trying to think of ways of pre making it. Um one idea I had which I tried and failed last night was to use an ISI thermo whip. Um and I just wanted to pick your brain it didn't didn't seem to work.
+
+[17:25] I put about into a pint size ISI whipper um about four egg egg whites and it it just didn't foam up. I I foamed it with two nitrous oxide containers and it just it didn't do anything. Um you well did you get fired? Did I get what? That's Jeffrey for you because he he doesn't like the whole egg white egg white foam thing.
+
+[17:52] Uh most of the time when you're phoning, Dave? Yeah, I'm saying you wouldn't like just a straight egg white f egg white foam out of an ISI. Oh no, he didn't serve it to his uh he's testing, he didn't serve it to his client. Oh, I see. Right?
+
+[18:03] You didn't serve it to him. No, no, no, I I definitely didn't. Um I've never foamed directly egg whites in an ISI. Have you, Jeffrey? Egg whites tried to do it directly?
+
+[18:11] Yes, I tried it. Without success or no? I didn't spend enough time on it. Uh most people who do pre-made souffles use uh a stabilizer of some sort, like a carrageenin, uh to stabilize the foam. I think they make it somewhat traditionally and then um stabilize it and uh and then cut it into pucks and then uh bake it and it rises up.
+
+[18:30] Uh I can think of cuisine solutions uh has a commercial preparation based on uh that uses this and it's I believe based on carrageenan and Xanthan gum along with the regular uh base for a souffle. Have you done any experiments with pre-made souffles, Jeffrey, at all? Not exactly pre-made. I remember uh a long time ago, and I wish that I could remember the details, but I probably have them somewhere on my notes. There was a restaurant in Paris, uh there is a restaurant in Paris that called La Regulade.
+
+[18:58] It was uh the uh first of the cheap bistrobes. I mean, the the uh cheap bistrobes with excellent young chefs. Maybe ten years ago, and one thing he was famous for was his uh you know, Grand Marnier souffles. Um and I was in the kitchen watching him, um, and he showed me that how during the baking, the uh souffle would rise to the top, uh, and then he'd open the oven door and it would sink, and then he'd shut the oven door again and it would rise and it would rise again. I but in other words, it was not so uh duh delicate that you had to you know not even talk loud around it.
+
+[19:29] Right, right. And um I can't remember the formula, but I'm sure there was no uh so-called molecular so-called gastronomy. Right. Oh, the the awful term. Well, look, here a souffle is basically this.
+
+[19:45] You take and you make a base that's somewhat pre aerated, right? And then you bake it so that the it it inflates by uh by created steam and by the uh bubbles that are inside are expanding, or actually both. Uh uh when it gets hot enough, it sets, and if you're good at it, the inside stays custody and delicious. So the way to make it stick around for a long time is to somehow set that initial base with something that when it's heated will release itself and allow itself to expand. So things like uh I've never experimented, things like gelatin, although gelatin's not free sauce stable, things like kerragen that are gonna melt once they get up above about 120 degrees, which is really below uh Fahrenheit, which is below or 140 if I have to look it up, uh which is you know below where the maximum expansion of this thing takes place.
+
+[20:33] So you want to use a thermally reversible gelling or stabilizing agent or a combination of them that will allow you to get the rise that you want uh after the stuff remelts but will gel up at a lower temperature. I I don't have a particular recipe, but that's the that's the tactic I would take. Does that make sense? Yeah, absolutely. Uh all right, thank you so much for your call.
+
+[20:52] I th do we have to go to a break or we have time? We have to go to the Okay, we have we have to go to a commercial break, but please call in 718 497 2128, 718 497 21 uh 28 for the uh great Jeffrey Steingarden. Remember, he pulls no punches. I don't want to people to know you're in here. How you feel, fellas?
+
+[21:12] Sure getting down. Look at him. We're gonna have a bunk good time. We're gonna have a bunk good time. We're gonna have a bunk good time.
+
+[21:30] We're gonna have a bunk good time. Now take them up, Brad. We've gotta take you high. All right. Yeah, let's go on.
+
+[21:46] We're gonna take you high. Brother. Yeah. Now I won't have a body. Let Red blow up by two cores.
+
+[22:02] Let's go and do that with dinner. Yeah, all right. I'm gonna get that belly with a little horn over there. Brad, get it take us higher. Yeah.
+
+[22:13] Take us higher. Hello, this is Dave Arnold. You're listening to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network. Call in with your questions for Jeffrey Steingarden at 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128.
+
+[23:00] And before we get on to our next caller, uh, we had a question uh come in about purging clams beforehand, presumably to get the uh sand out. This comes from uh Adam Lazaric and he's a chef down in Philadelphia and he wants to know whether any of these purging uh methods really work. Salt water, freshwater, cornmeal, etcetera. I would not purge a uh clam in in freshwater because they uh the ones we usually get, the hard shell clams are uh they're seawater animals. I know from experience that uh if you put uh clam in flavored uh water that like uh for instance uh bacon uh bacon and onion soup that has the same amount of salt in it as the ocean, that they will open up, eat that and and get flavored like delicious bacon onion soup because this is something that I've done.
+
+[23:41] Um and then you eat them raw, then it tastes like bacon onion soup. Uh so I know I know that works. The the cornmeal presumably is um to get them to start eating. Uh I don't know whether there's any truth to whether the cornmeal it really makes them eat. I don't know why it would be cornmeal, let's say, and not flour or s or something else like that.
+
+[23:59] Presumably some of the starch from the cornmeal is gonna dissolve and make them uh make them eat it, whereas the rest sinks to the bottom. Maybe that's why cornmeal, but I don't I I wasn't able to find any specific studies. But the the premise behind putting cornmeal in the clams is to get the clams to start to start eating. Um David, what about snails? Uh I try getting snails to eat rosemary ones to purge them out in the old uh uh Spanish style.
+
+[24:22] Uh I was not successful. They died and smelled god awful, and my wife basically forbade me from ever running an experiment on snails in the bathroom again. Well, I would do it. Oh, don't do it in the bathroom, do it in the bedroom. Yeah, well, I think that might get me in even more even more trouble.
+
+[24:38] But there certainly it's but you're uh in the in the kind of uh the you know a classic style of paella uh from Valencia. You purge the snails not just for a day, for a whole period of time on herbs so that they taste like rosemary. And um I've never tried that. But I believe it. I've tried it unsuccessfully, and uh my friend Johnny Azini and I in London tried to fatten snails on milk, also with only marginal success.
+
+[25:10] That's an old Roman uh technique. So uh I have not had much luck with the So it's your theory that the Romans and the and the Spanish are lying. No, it's my theory that I'm bad at it. I see. Yeah, how about Johnny?
+
+[25:21] He's bad too. Yes, we're both both both bad at it. You know, it uh I guess it takes more than a tech guy and a uh three-star pastry chef to to fatten a snail, at least to try and relearn how to do it. But hey, I'll try it with you sometime if you if you'd like. You want to try.
+
+[25:35] Uh when I lived half the time in San Diego, uh every once in a while, your garden would be filled with snails. Every leaf would be uh would have a snail on it. Um and so I was going to eat them. But I had to do research first to t on the uh genus and everything and on whether there was going to be any uh poison involved. And by the time I did, and then I started waiting for the next uh snail infestation, there was no more snails.
+
+[26:06] I I happen to have a copy because I visited a snail farm uh, you know, just north of Tuscany, uh a copy of a book on snail farming that ha it deals with most of the famous European snail varieties. It's written from an Italian viewpoint, but translated into wretched English, so uh I can read it. Uh and we will go over the book together and see whether we can learn anything interesting about feeding snails. But finally I was told that these snails were the same as the snails in Burgundy, uh uh France, and that there was no reason uh not to eat them. Can do an oracle after the reference.
+
+[26:39] I didn't know that the Italians ate uh land snails. Yep, yeah, I I went and picked a whole bunch. They uh they had a special Etruscan variety that's still grown in very small quantity at uh this farm called La Chocola that's uh way up in uh or however you say snail in in Italian. And uh yeah, and I went and go went to pick them. The variety is called uh rigatello rigatello, something like that, like round like a pinwheel thing.
+
+[27:02] Yeah, they're good. But uh they're smaller than the bigger ones that you get in Burgundy, they're a lot smaller snail. But they were they were good, they tasted good. Uh do we have a caller or no? Yes.
+
+[27:12] We have a collar. Hello. I got a question about avocado puree. Alrighty. Uh the whole pit thing, that's just bogus.
+
+[27:24] Put in the pit in your avocado puree. Correct. That never worked for me at all. Yeah, great. Uh lime juice is what I currently use, about three-quarters of a lime to one avocado.
+
+[27:36] But uh sometimes it comes up just too acidic for me. Is there anything else I can use to combat the oxidation other than uh citrus juice? Ascorbic acid, straight ascorbic acid vitamin C from the from the um um what what am I talking about? The the pharmacy, whatever. Make sure it's doesn't have rose hip and stuff in it, just straight ascorbic acid vitamin C has a lot more antioxidant power and a lot less of that uh acid taste than using a lime, which is a mixture of ascorbic acid, malic ac acid, cis citric acid, and a pinch of succinic acid.
+
+[28:06] So the ascorbic acid alone's gonna work. Sodium, uh what is it, sodium metabisulfite? Is that correct, Jeffrey? Sodium metabisulfite also works. Or packing in an actual va uh, you know, a bag that's uh oxygen proof.
+
+[28:14] Current plastic wraps are not uh are not very good oxygen barriers. No, not at all. But also remember that a lime of all the common citrus uh limes are are the most acidic. Why would you use lime? As you mean as opposed to lemon or yeah.
+
+[28:33] Yeah. Oh, I actually tried using some users and some other things, thinking that more acidic is better, but uh user can be very acidic, though. Yeah. It's it's not the acid, it's not straight acid. It's not the pH that's preserving it, it's the ascorbic acid itself, which is uh which is an anti uh uh oxidant that is uh actually stopping the browning from happening.
+
+[28:54] So it's not it's not really that you need to make it more acidic. So you might go for a l less acid fruit with a higher ascorbic acid balance like lemon, or just use straight vitamin C. And a lot of people, you know, uh when they go out to buy vitamin C, they mistakenly buy citric acid, and um citric acid isn't near the uh doesn't have near the antioxidant power that uh ascorbic acid, vitamin C does. Yeah, Dave, can you just mash up a vitamin C pill? I've never done that because I think they have all sorts of other things uh to make it into a pill form like uh you know, like little bits of calcium and whatnot and uh chalk and all this stuff.
+
+[29:29] Uh I buy the straight straight powder, 100% vitamin C powder. Um but I hope this answers your question. Thank you. And uh we have another caller apparently for coming in. Hello?
+
+[29:40] Hello? Hi, you're on the air. Hey Dave, well of the show. Uh my name is Jason. I was calling from Brooklyn.
+
+[29:46] Hey, Jason. Uh I have a question. I'm into juicing and making smoothies and stuff like that, and I've had terrible experiences in the past picking out juicers and blenders and I was leaning towards getting one of the uh you know one of the expensive uh blenders that I've seen on the internet and or on TV, and I was wondering if you had any suggestions on what would be the best uh the best method to go about uh picking out a blender. Um it depends on what you want to juice and what kind of results you want. If the question is should I get a Vitapep, the answer is undoubtedly yes.
+
+[30:24] Uh right, Jeffrey, or no? Yeah, I mean the Vitapep is an excellent piece of equipment, right? It's not a juicer though. Um I would get a champion juicer for they're doing things like apples and carrots, and I would get a Vitapep for for blending things. I mean the ultimate juicer is a Vitapep, a bunch of enzymes, and a uh centrifuge, but that's a little above most people's uh.
+
+[30:46] I bought um I bought a different blender uh uh some kind of restaurant show because it was on the floor, and uh at these shows you could often kind of offer them something and they'll let you take it home. Right. Um and it was the big wearing, which is has the uh same power or a little more than the vita prep. Um and I've I've never found anything that is not pulverized within seconds. The only thing you have to do, um I um I didn't do it the first time is to hold down the top because otherwise it goes all over the kitchen.
+
+[31:19] Well well uh have you ever side by sided uh compared it with the Vitaprep? No, I'd like to. Do you want to bring your Yes, I would like to I would like to do that. I mean uh your Vitapep over? Well, here here's the thing that the the two major blenders that I've used on the power side, so I've not used Jeffrey's wearing, is the the K Tech blender and the Vitaprep blender.
+
+[31:36] Uh you know, look, when you're talking about blending, there's there's two main things that you're worried about. One is the tip speed of the blades as they spin around because that is what's going to determine how much force is applied to your product. The other thing is uh presumably the sharpness of the blades might matter for some for some applications. And then the one that's not looked at a lot, where Vitaprep actually kind of falls flat sometimes, is in the pitcher design. You want you want good movement of the product through the blades, otherwise you have uh problems with improper mixing and also cavitation where you get the you know big pockets of air where the blades aren't hitting things.
+
+[32:10] So these are the three main things you want to look for in a blender. Uh you know, and and the power is basically a rating that just uh correlates somewhat with the ability to spin a blade around and to get a high tip speed going. Um but you know they're not really great juicers. Blender is more of a blender. If you want to mix juice, right, the the choices in the low range, I would get a couple hundred dollar champion juicer, which juices most things, won't juice wheatgras or a sugar cane.
+
+[32:38] Uh but they're great juices. Oh, smoothies. Oh, yeah, then a blender is what you want. But if you're gonna make juice, I mean when I think juice, I'm thinking like a liquid juice. If you have a lot of money, the neutrafaster kind of kicks butt.
+
+[32:51] That's the big one that that that but they're monsters, man. I uh went to a show uh uh and I, you know, and I'm used to juicing carrots and apples and stuff like that, and we all joke about how we're making our uh forearms into you know giant monstrous forearms by jamming apples case after case into these machines and juicing them. So I walked up to this other, you know, this neutral I think it's neutral faster's name, tried to, you know, I thought I was gonna have to force the apple through, and it basically ate the apple. I didn't even have time to push on it. That's how that's how awesome it is.
+
+[33:18] But that's like a five thousand dollar problem, right? The champion's like a $200 problem. How much is the Vitaprep? Like a three hundred dollar problem? $400?
+
+[33:26] Yeah. Um but I I will definitely side by side mine with uh yours, Jeffrey, and we will see we'll see what we think. The reason the K Tech is bad. Dave, didn't you invent a hand blender? I did.
+
+[33:36] I invented a hand blender that is almost as good as the Vitaprep. It has uh it's got a very high tip speed, it spins at uh 24,000 RPM with a quite a bit of power and it's got a variable speed, uh it's got a variable speed trigger. I mean it's pretty it's nice. It's not I mean it's nice, I'm not gonna lie. Uh when when I make another batch, you will definitely be on the first list of people that will that will get one.
+
+[33:59] Um, uh let me answer a couple of questions. I have a one that uh a quick one uh from uh Michael at Herbav Herbivarace how do you spell it? Herbivoraceous. Uh wants to know whether there's any transglutaminate, uh transglutaminate is meat glue, it glues meat together, uh actually any proteins. Wants to know if there's any um applications for vegetables.
+
+[34:20] Uh well, tofu can be strengthened with transglutaminase and uh yogurts and other dairy systems can be strengthened with transglutaminates. You c you can glue vegetables together with transglutaminates, but unfortunately you have to use gelatin as a helper protein, and this is something that Wiley, my brother in law, has uh tested out quite a bit, where he um cross links gelatin to form noodles out of vegetables um using transglutaminates, but unfortunately uh gelatin is not vegetarian. Uh the second question he has is can melons be compressed without a vacuum machine? Uh it's tough. No, yeah.
+
+[34:54] You can infuse without a vacuum machine, but you can I j uh could I have not found any way to compress uh without a vacuum machine. I have never eaten anything. I believe that was made with meat glue. That was worth eating sorry Dave Wow Wow what does that mean how do you know that you've how how can you first of all the question is what what do you mean? And secondly how would you know whether or not meat glue was used necessarily because you asked them how did you make this in every case?
+
+[35:32] If someone just hands you a piece of meat that's not necessarily obviously been meat glued you ask them whether it was meat glued or not? So then I would love probably would love to taste it. Most people don't do that most people use it to play tricks. For example your and Nil's turduccin first of all you had a very early version of it. First of all let me just say you had a very early version of it.
+
+[35:54] Traditional turduccan is an abomination because it cannot possibly be cooked right. It is not true that there is an over K uh okay way to overcook duck. And it's also not true that it's okay to just bathe uh overcooked duck in fat and sauces and then pretend that you haven't overcooked it. Well who said there was well I'm presuming that you're sticking up for traditional turduckin no. No okay uh but you had a very early early version of the meat glue version.
+
+[36:18] No well first of all as I said you had a very early version. Uh second of all I think you're wrong that uh most things are used for special effects. The the most general use for uh meat glue is just in making uh portions that cook evenly and nicely. I mean that's the majority of the use it's just it doesn't get any of the press well we'll have to discuss the um um I can't remember the name of the cut anymore that they have at um uh um with your brother in law's restaurant to pay a flat iron. Yeah and you take out the uh cartilage piece?
+
+[36:57] Yeah, yep. Uh because uh although you hate this sort of thing, there are people who don't like to cut around the cartilage when they eat something. Well, it would be better not to have cartilage, but um maybe the flat iron isn't the best uh stake to eat in the first place. You don't think it tastes good? Not as good as uh say the thirty other parts of the cow.
+
+[37:20] Wow the steer. Yeah. All right. Well, let's let me let me hit one more quick question because I already asked uh one question from Greg, but not the one he actually wanted us to answer. Um so uh Greg emailed us and said, uh can can I talk a little more about reducing the uh capsation level in uh peppers, uh hot peppers habaneros, specifically uh because he uses a surgical technique to remove the inside of the skin to get rid of the uh majority of the capsation to make them not as uh hot.
+
+[37:51] Presumably he does this because habaneros have a unique and amazing floral aroma and taste. Uh he's interested in using an enzyme that we use called uh uh SPL with a or former one called peelzyme that kind of destroys tissue. He wants to know whether we can basically erase this layer of tissue on the inside of the pepper that has the capsation. Unfortunately, the stuff that it that in a pepper, the thing you eat is the mesocarp, right? That same mesocarp in a citrus fruit is the albedo, right?
+
+[38:19] So the stuff that's dissolved by peelzyme, which is this enzyme, is the actual meat of the pepper. Now, the majority of capsation in a pepper is contained on the inside surface of the uh of the inside skin of the of the pepper inside uh and somewhat in the veins. So you could preferentially melt this top layer away with this enzyme, but then you're gonna contaminate the whole the whole pepper with it. So I don't think it's necessarily gonna be helpful. I think you're much better using what you what you do now, which is use a knife.
+
+[38:44] It's just a pain in the butt. Another um another uh route you might take is to is to look for a source of ah how do you pronounce it? Ahi ahi dulce? Ahi ahi pepper? Ahi AJ Dulce?
+
+[38:57] Does anyone know what I'm talking about? Anyone? Uh the uh it's called it's a sweet pepper that looks like a habanero and supposedly has the aroma and taste of a of a habanero comes from uh without the spice. It comes from Venezuela. I've only had three or four of them in my life and I didn't find them to be quite as floral or or aromatic as a habanero.
+
+[39:16] But um they're in the same ballpark and they require no manipulation whatsoever. I believe they are a characteristic ingredient in um some traditional Venezuelan dishes but I have never been to Venezuela so I don't know. Uh but also Peruvian food and um but but also in Ecuador in Ceviche. The the the Aji Dulce? Yeah.
+
+[39:39] Yeah. Uh do you think it has as good a an aroma or taste as the habanero? Well it's inter uh I think this is a a a very interesting question and an interesting idea because we all know that different peppers have wonderful different kind of aromatic and floral tastes but you can rarely taste them because your tongue is thinking about other things. Right right. So I think this is a wonderful question.
+
+[40:07] I don't see why it's such a Dave what did you call it pain in the butt? Is that pain in the butt well yeah the words you use yes yeah to uh um you know, uh in the past in in restaurant kitchens, they used to even peel grapes. Or um for a a terrible dish, yes, so silver on eat, right? That's a terrible dish. That's right.
+
+[40:29] Yeah. Or um uh David Boulet uh uh uh when he was introducing uh uh a version of Joe Robichon's um famous mashed potatoes, uh using the hot potato, although he was using fingerlings. And they have to be peeled and they're small. And so he had a whole he said he supported a whole Salvadoran family to peel hot potatoes um all day long for his potato puree. And so that was a good thing, supporting them by rather than supporting them by doing something else.
+
+[41:14] Well, one of them went on to Harvard and got a Nobel Prize. This is what we call a lie. Is this true? Is this a lie, yeah. Uh yeah, that seems like uh, you know, Marx's dream, someone sitting in a basement peeling tiny little potatoes constantly uh, you know.
+
+[41:28] Uh nice great way the kitchen. What should he have had them do? A lot of kitchen work though is nice and dehumanizing. You gotta get into the zen of it, right, Jeffrey, you like that sort of thing. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
+
+[41:38] Um, but he's not peeling the outside of these peppers, it's peeling the inside. And the real problem is is that any sort of contamination, and you've just ruined your whole job, you know what I mean? That's kind of uh probably the panel. No, could you explain that again? So uh he's like he's like taking and cutting the cap off and removing it carefully without cutting all the way through, popping it off, opening it, and then removing the inner skin, presumably without slipping and contaminating and getting the super hot parts into the not so hot parts.
+
+[42:03] Seems difficult. Well, he doesn't have to be one thousand percent accurate, you know. I mean, he's trying to get rid of of of uh much of the you know, of the jalignaro's hotness in order to be able to to taste the floral part. It can still be a little hot. Yeah, I I guess I guess you are correct.
+
+[42:22] And I think the other thing to do is to buy a rotary evaporator. I don't know. I was specifically told last week not to mention buying a rotary evaporator as as the one that's. Oh, I'd love to have one. I've never played with yours.
+
+[42:31] Well, you you're welcome anytime, Jeffrey. And uh uh here is another question that comes in, uh Matt from Chicago, uh, and this is right up Jeffrey's alley as well. Uh I recently bought a bag of MSG from my local Asian grocery store to experiment, but whenever I use it, I can't help to be reminded of instant soup mix. Is there a secret uh to help using uh MSG to blend with other flavors? And uh before I let Jeffrey launch into this, because this is a subject dear to his heart, uh, I will just say you're probably using too much because uh MSG is not used in the same quantities that you would use salt or other other spices.
+
+[43:04] And with that I will I will hand it over to Jeffrey. Well, I'm afraid that I can't give you advice about about the best way to use it. One thing is don't use it in soup. Because you'll probably be able to taste or sense it too much. But you can certainly use it in uh in many other things, and and uh I just remember that glutamic acid MSG is is you know the same flavor enhancer that's been used in um in Asia, uh, you know, drained out of uh giant kelp for many, many, many years.
+
+[43:43] Yeah. And uh maybe you should try giant kelp. Yeah, and we uh yeah, um uh combo, for instance for me tongues uh but you know, you're you you're also and uh I don't mean, you know, I think most of our listeners are not anti MSG, but you know, Jeffrey wrote uh was very early uh writer in the food world on debunking the uh fact that uh you think you might have a reaction to MSG. Uh was that in your first book? Was that in the The Man Who Ate Everything?
+
+[44:12] Um I believe it was uh um in the first book and it was called to might have been the second book and it was called why doesn't everybody in China have a headache. Right. Uh and I actually did a survey in China after lunch um asking people do you have a headaches? And what did they say? No one had a headache.
+
+[44:31] Uh it's it's very that that is actually an interesting I mean the reading the literature on MSG is uh boring with the and I'll try and get it and put it up on the forum with the exception of one article written by a scientist uh who um just lambasses anyone I mean I I'll have to get it but you know the the the from a science standpoint it's it's somewhat ludicrous to think you have a reaction to it because um uh you your body makes more uh glutamic acid in your head than uh than you could ever normally reasonably consume because it's a neurotransmitter and you need it to live um but that's that's but don't you think that the original disc uh discovery of the uh Chinese restaurant syndrome which was a phrase um invented uh by the New England Journal of Medicine which uh uh uh captioned a letter from a a mass general or Beth Israel uh doctor in Boston who had this experience that he wrote a letter asking to the Newland Journal of Medicine asking whether anyone else had noticed it. Because he became flushed after a a a large number of bowls of wonton soup. And in those days Oh, so it was the Greenland Journal of Medicine that thought of the idea of a Chinese restaurant syndrome. Of course that isn't is uh no longer believed to be politically correct. Um even though it's the the first discovery of it there was in a Boston Chinese restaurant.
+
+[46:05] Most people don't remember those days, say 1964 or so I do. But there's no doubt that they would uh dump huge amounts of MSG in in Wonton soup and that if you drank it on an empty stomach, I think you probably could get a dose that that if you're s especially sensitive to it might affect you. Okay, well the the sci the scientific literature on uh blood levels of um uh of glutamic acid upon consumption are that if you consume uh MSG with any sort of food at all, your blood levels don't spike. So but how about soup? Right.
+
+[46:43] If you consume liquid only that doesn't have a lot of other stuff going on, it is true that you can get uh a spike in um in in glutaminate level in your blood that lasts uh up to a hundred and twenty minutes. Yeah. Yeah. Uh so the you know th there is that spike it's only when you're drinking uh kind of only fluids and it's only in really large doses. So I don't know how much they were adding in Boston.
+
+[47:07] But then furthermore recent research on this has been that even at those levels there doesn't appear to be that much of a um that much I mean or any really reaction. So that m most of the studies that have shown reactions were not uh properly blinded. They weren't uh you know, they they would put MSG into a a strongly flavored citrus beverage and assume that no one could taste the MSG. Uh when when studies are given of uh MSG in gelatin capsules consumed on an empty stomach, then there doesn't appear to be a statistical um effect. I mean I I've been meaning to do a post on this for a long time 'cause I had to read like six hundred pages of this crap because someone asked me a question once and I read like six hundred pages of crap on MSG.
+
+[47:52] So I can go back and kind of re redo it because it was, you know, like six months ago or something that I did the research, but I mean is this jibe with what you remember, Jeffrey or no. But let me ask you, David, before I ask you about why you're being so um blasé about the dangers of carragenin, um there's a whole literature on that you know I I I never I when was I blase about the dangers you advised someone before t to to to put kerogenin in in their food. Yeah well you advi mean like we all advise things that aren't necessarily a hundred percent uh you know it it's a traditional ingredient care you know it's a traditional ingredient. By the way the the research on on carragenin is only that certain types of carrageenin, I believe Kappa carragenin specifically, in very in low pH systems and very acidic systems might have uh some association with certain types of cancer. Um I don't happen to use carrageenin that often presumably souffles are not a super high acid system.
+
+[48:50] No. No. Um but we have a we have a we have a you know but I'm sure I'm sure I'm gonna get questions on that uh on that soon. Uh all right. Oh, we have a caller coming in.
+
+[49:03] Yeah. Hi, Dave. This is Kent Kirschenbaum. Hey, hey, Kent. Good to speak to you.
+
+[49:07] Yeah. Listen, I have my own notion on what's going on with MSG, and that's that there's these persistent anecdotal reports that there is a reaction. So what could be happening? Well, one of the ways that MSG is produced is by microbial fermentation. And if the purification from the fermentation is not done properly, I think there could be other compounds in that preparation that could give uh you know negative reaction.
+
+[49:34] And so you think presumably that would be something that was more prevalent in the past? Yeah, I think they've gotten a lot better at the fermentation and purification techniques, and that I'm not surprised that there might have been more of these anecdotal reports back in the nineteen sixties than there are now. That's interesting. I never I never thought about that, by the way. For our listeners, this is Kent Kirstenbaum, one of the founders of the experimental cuisine collective and professor of uh polymer chemistry at NYU.
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+[49:59] Um that's correct, right, Kent? Pretty much? That's it. Yeah. Um as I was able as I was to find out if you write anything about MSG that is not negative, or at least if you're one of the first ones to have done that, there are hordes of people out there who are sure that their children were brain damaged.
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+[50:20] Um as a result of the MSG in their food. Okay. So brain damage in MSG is a very interesting question. MSG is actually used as an agent to cause brain damage in neonatal uh rodents. Uh the blood brain barrier in a neonatal rodent is nowhere near as developed as the blood brain barrier in a human being.
+
+[50:39] They fed absurd doses to these uh rats and mice to cause brain damage on the equivalent of a full grown uh man eating uh something like two hundred and fifty grams of m straight MSG in a sitting on an empty stomach. Uh the uh similar doses were tried on neonatal monkeys, and unfortunately, and uh that were shown not to have that brain damage uh effect. So I know that those studies have been thoroughly debunked, but that has not but that doesn't address really Kent's question on whether it's possible that there was a uh second contaminant that would cause uh some sort of reaction back in the sixties and seventies. I don't know. Basically we're uh I um I believe we're talking about nineteen sixty-three, not necessarily the fifties.
+
+[51:28] But uh but let me ask you, Dave. Some people objected, um and I assume they were wrong when I was talking about how a a um there was an Australian study, although again the MSG was supplied by the Agenamoto companies, so people are always suspicious. Um they were the largest manufacturers of MSG. Uh anyway, there was an Australian study showing that there was more glutamic acid in an Italian meal, largely because of the uh about tomatoes in the parmesan. Uh uh than in a Chinese meal.
+
+[52:03] Also we know that in in Japanese meals there could be the more glutamic acid, and no one talks about the the um the Japanese restaurant syndrome. Uh but is it possible that uh natural glutamic acid is different? I don't see how that's possible. I mean, unless that you know what Kent was saying that it might be contaminated, but I mean it's it's the sodium salt basically of uh glutamic acid. It is providing by weight, I think roughly one third the sodium that table salt would, so there's extra salt, there's extra sodium involved.
+
+[52:37] But uh I don't see how it's I don't see how it's possible because it's also produced from a biological system. It's not it's not produ it's not it's not like you're dealing with like a a a different um you know uh isomer or something like that. I mean they're they're pr both produced biologically. Um I don't I don't see how it could possibly be different. Uh Ken, are you still there?
+
+[52:58] Do you see a way that could be different or is Ken already gone? I I don't see how it can be different, to be honest. And as far as the salt form of it, I mean once it hits your stomach, that that counter ion is going to be swapped out almost instantaneously. So I I agree with you, Dave, on this, that I I think it'd be hard to imagine how there could be differences in the monosodium glutamate itself. Now there could very well be differences in the, you know, one percent or point one percent of whatever additional material is there in the commercial MSG as opposed to what's in your your your natural food.
+
+[53:34] Right. I mean I I think a lot of the reaction has to do with when people eat something that's unfamiliar to them, they then have a reaction because they've eaten something unfamiliar, that I've been poisoned or I've eaten something terrible, and then they have some sort of a re reaction to it. And I think uh some of the studies have shown that uh that these effects that are linked with uh with the s with the the syndrome, we'll call it, uh, are basically just uh the effects of eating unfamiliar foods uh on people's psyche. Uh I don't I don't know what you guys think of that. Although the the the uh first report of the New England Journal of Medicine was um by a g uh a a doctor of uh Chinese ancestry.
+
+[54:16] I I remember this, yeah. Who ate a lot of of wonton soup in Boston all the time. So I don't think he was but did he have a headache all the time or just once? No, he got flushed. He didn't have a headache.
+
+[54:27] But all the time? Yeah, very flushed. He only reported once. Uh if I went back and read that and it also seems a little bit tongue in cheek and then was taken seriously by a lot of people. I mean that's why they named the Chinese Restaurant Syndrome in the in the New England Journal of Medicine.
+
+[54:42] Right. Dave Anken, let me ask you a question if I could. All right. When I was doing an Oracle a long time ago on whether it was bad to eat salt um I came across a number of papers showing that even those people who were salt sensitive and had a a blood pressure reaction to a high salt diet did not have the same reaction to other sodium compounds. For example baking soda and baked goods even though in the very old days doctors also warned you not to eat too many baked goods.
+
+[55:30] Because of the baking soda but when it was tested on people there was either no reaction or very little reaction from all the other sodium compounds. I mean in our but in our diets now we probably have 50 or 100 sodium compounds. Before I let Kent answer because he's actually probably knows what he's talking about, I will ask you this, Jeffrey, before before we can answer is uh did they measure for m like actual moles of sodium consumed or just weight of the compound sodium bicarbonate which is a lot heavier than salt per mole. Dave, I have to assume that because they were scientists that they measured the right thing. That I I would not assume that, actually, because I've read so I've just spent so much time reading crappy scientific papers that I can never assume that somebody has measured the proper proper thing.
+
+[56:17] Kent, what what are your thoughts? I'll I'll hand it over to you. Yeah, I I agree with your John Dis assessment of the scientific literature, and because of it, I I'd hesitate to uh to answer what exactly was going on in those studies unless I'd read them and and poured over those kinds of details. Well it's certainly true that in the the popular literature and in the uh press releases of of people like Mayor Bloomberg, salt and sodium are used interchangeably and there's no attempt to get sodium out of our fast food, out of our diets. There's only an attempt to reduce the amount of salt.
+
+[56:56] Right. You know well that the question is how are they going to measure it? Like am I allowed to then add some sodium salt uh some sodium compound and then add a chloride compound and end up with sodium chloride in my in my product? Is that legal? Is that gonna be okay now?
+
+[57:09] I mean, the whole thing about reducing salt seems to be I guess it's the next crazy thing that's gonna happen to us, huh? Um I think it's it is time for all good people and reading more of the research and publishing it in in letters to the New York Times and the LA Times and the San Francisco Chronicle. I mean, it seems and you know, Kent and I have talked about this a lot. Kent, you should come on the show sometime actually. We would talked about this a lot, which is no one uh even scientists who who are researching things outside of their normal field, like like doctors, tend not to do the tend not to do the level of research into the quality of the of the science that they're quoting when they talk about nutrition.
+
+[57:53] Uh and so much of it is just crap. Um and and crap based on other crap. If you read the uh the uh you know the the citations that some of these studies uh cite, which is why whenever I research something I end up having to read five, six hundred pages because you have to burrow back and find the source of crap. And you know, I know Jeffrey, you do this. Uh whenever you research something, you'll research something and then the sites of the sites and the sites of the sites, and but who has the time?
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+[58:20] I mean, Jeffrey's made a a career on being thorough, you know what I mean? But you know, most people don't. But you know, one thing that I took a back in, say I don't know, nineteen ninety two, when I read all uh uh all the literature as of that time, there was no doubt there's not been shown that there was a a uh connection uh uh between eating salt and then having a blood high blood pressure, except among say six percent of the popul to the population and the head of the um of the New York hospital uh uh comprehensive hypertension study but certainly agreed with me. He thought it wasn't as high as six percent. He's a but he thought it was uh you know as low as as uh five percent.
+
+[59:07] Then all of a sudden I noticed five years ago that there was a uh uh uh but but by the way, there were a lot of doctors um and scientists at that time who found it but very threatening because their whole lives have been based on a career of advising uh people not to eat salt. Um and uh but the backlash back in those days was not very strong. And then I noticed starting five years ago, there was a uh a huge and sudden campaign by all these people against salt. Right. And I thought we had defeated that.
+
+[59:44] That's what I thought. I uh I I thought it was all gone, and then someone, some medical students sent me uh uh, you know, sent me a letter or an email, you know, you know, saying Mr. Strongjordan, don't you realize you're totally wrong about and then we had many exchanges. And they uh there was a big worldwide study called the Intrasol Study, and uh I can't remember exactly when it was, it was 1988 or 89. Um all over the world the people took urine samples in order to determine how much uh salt had been eaten by that person.
+
+[1:00:21] Um and um I don't know I don't know, took their uh their blood pressure. They took several urine samples from each person and they sent it to to different laboratories uh in Europe after freezing it. I mean, it was a massive and it that seems to me to have been uh an extremely meticulous study. Um and there was a correlation. But after you eliminated certain, if I may call them, uh primitive peoples who ate no salt at all because they didn't have any salt, like the the Yanamamo Indians, who were always used as kind of poster Indians for for this proposition, but even ignoring the fact that between one third and a half of all the males in the Yanamong society uh died from the homicide.
+
+[1:01:18] They have other issues, they do. Many other issues that I think probably came from not having enough salt. So they packed those strange uh narcotics into their noses because of the lack of salt. Okay, so if you eliminated four extremely low salt societies, if you only had kind of normal people, there was no correlation. All right.
+
+[1:01:37] Well, they're gonna make us leave soon. Uh br Brandon Cummins had a question on ice, which I'll address on the blog in a post coming up soon. So, Brandon, sorry to keep you waiting. But I have one question that came in from I believe Ben at Littlewing, and he wants to hear Jeffrey Steingarden's opinion on what makes the perfect French fry. So what are we gonna do is I'm gonna sign off now, and then I'm gonna have Jeffrey just talk about the perfect French fry until they cut us off.
+
+[1:02:02] This is cooking issues with Jeffrey Steingarten and Nastasha Lopez coming to you live every Tuesday to this this week, an hour uh from uh 12 to 1. And Jeffrey, the perfect French fry, if you would. Thank you very much, David. Very enjoyable. Oh, thank you.
+
+[1:02:16] Very enjoyable. Well, uh, except we're not on the air anymore. No, we're on the air. I'm gonna they're gonna let you talk about French fries for a minute, and then at certain points, like the Oscars, the musical coming on. I'm sorry.
+
+[1:02:30] Yeah. Well, I think the characteristics of of of the perfect French fry have been um, I think laid out, although it is it didn't take brain surgery to uh by Dave on his pre on the blog. Thank you. Um crisp but very friable outside, not too thick. Um almost like mashed potatoes inside.
+
+[1:03:04] Then there's another kind of perfect French fry, which is hollow Inside. You don't like that. No, no. But but it can be also delicious because it is like a a long, a long, rectangular, baton-shaped uh potato ship. And as we know, potato chips are as good as French fries.
+
+[1:03:22] They're delicious, they are. Oh, uh, I must also say he wanted to know about uh horse fat because he hasn't tasted. He wants to know your opinion on horse fat and fries. Oh, there's no doubt to me that horse fat gives you the best fries. Um after I wrote my article, I was kind of sad about this because I had a hard, hard time getting horse fat, and then someone I knew in in uh in uh Paris, actually it was um it was Alex uh Alex Garanas Shelley, who's now a chef, who was working as a research assistant for Patricia Wells, and she found in a supermarket these sticks of horse fat that were packaged like butter.
+
+[1:04:08] In where? Paris, France. We should go, we should go. Um I wonder whether they'll still do still doing that. I wonder whether it's constitutional that Congress has passed laws against the eating uh of horses in America.
+
+[1:04:23] Well, the French have always been great horse eaters. I've I've just been reminded by Nastasha the Hammer Lopez that I've forgotten to mention our sponsor. Today's excellent show was brought to you by the good folks at TechServe. TechService New York's premier authorized Apple reseller and service provider serving individual customers, creative professionals, and Fortune 100 companies. TechService built a solid reputation on expertise in technology sales and service as a company that believes in honest and forthright business practices, tech service, proud to sponsor Heritage Radio Network and the promotion of sustainable lifestyles, but they're for Mac only people.
+
+[1:04:50] Cooking issues, and thank you to Jeffrey Steingarten. Ficious, vicious but crap. Oh, you did that. Got me on this corner, and I don't know where I'm at.
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+[0:16] Hello, you're listening to Cooking Issues on Heritage Radio Network. I'm Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, where you call in with all your cooking related questions here in the studio today with Nastasha Lopez, Cooking Issues Hammer. Call in all of your cooking questions to 718-497-2120, 718-497-2120. We're here every Tuesday from noon to noon forty-five. That's 718-497-2128.
+
+[0:44] Oh, sorry. 718, scratch that. 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. I'm not gonna put any blame here, but Nastasha told me to write down as 2120.
+
+[0:56] So, you know, it's the first time we've ever given the wrong number on the air, so we apologize. Uh yeah, alright, alright. So, while we're waiting for you to call in, uh, I will answer a few questions people have sent in. Uh hello, Nastasha and Dave, my name is Lucy. I'm about to start college at Northeastern in Boston.
+
+[1:13] Congratulations. Uh well, I'm very excited to get my life started in the pseudo-real world uh of college. Uh I'm sad to be losing access to a kitchen. Unfortunately, they won't let Lucy have anything in her dorm room like uh hot plates or uh what else do they say she can't have? Basically anything with it with an open burner, no toaster ovens, and no hot plates.
+
+[1:31] So what what is she what is she gonna do? Because right now she has just an immersion blender and a food processor, but she really wants to be able to cook. All right, listen. First of all, here's the bad news. Uh whoever your RA is, whatever they call those things nowadays, uh, they're probably gonna be too stupid to realize that something like an induction burner is not uh like a fire hazard, and so they probably won't let you have an induction unit, even though they are freaking awesome and they're completely safe, and you should be able to have them in college.
+
+[1:57] So before you buy one, make an argument with your with your uh person that you should be able to have an induction unit because they don't actually produce heat unless a pan is on them. Uh and even then they're not they're not a fire hazard the way that other things are. Uh okay, now it assume I'm gonna make a couple assumptions about you. One, you're not, you know, overly wealthy because you're a college student. Uh two, you don't really care about rules all that much, right?
+
+[2:20] So one way to get around it is uh if your RA is not the smartest person in the world or they just don't care, they make things that are microwave toaster oven combinations that look for all the world just like a microwave that have an infrared heater in the top of it. So it just looks like a microwave and yet acts like a uh acts like a toaster oven. Um so that's one way because you know, I'm not so much about rules. Uh another thing you can do, they used to make in the 50s, and I actually this is what I did in college. Uh I bought uh I went to a thrift shop and I bought a Westinghouse turkey oven.
+
+[2:51] And these are things that they used to make in the 1950s, and they look like overgrown crock pots. Uh, crock pot's another thing you can have, by the way. Uh they look like overgrown crock pots, and uh they were meant to cook a turkey in in Thanksgiving time so that your oven would be free for whatever else you were doing, and you could cook a turkey in this countertop uh oven. I had one of those and I used it to uh bake bread. In fact, I wooed my current wife.
+
+[3:12] Uh one of the things I did was I used to break uh bake bread for her in my dorm room in this Westinghouse oven. And they're pretty they're pretty safe looking. No one's even gonna know what the hell it is. And I think I spent, I don't know, two dollars on mine in the thrift shop. You know, maybe you could look on eBay, something like that.
+
+[3:26] So that's an option for you. Here's some more options. If you're willing to get a little more involved, now's a perfect time to get started with uh low temperature and sous-vide cooking, right? Now, I'm assuming you don't have eight hundred dollars to go spend on a new immersion circulator. And an immersion circulator, for those of you that are listening, is basically a piece of equipment that allows you to heat water or any liquid really to a very accurate temperature and to achieve really kind of stunning results in a very small amount of space uh and have it be repeatable every single time.
+
+[3:53] And you don't need a big vacuum machine to run this. All you need to do is be able to put your food into Ziploc bags. Now, I almost I never recommend making your own or or buying one used on eBay, even though that's what I used to do because it's actually very nice to have uh the brand new one, and you know, I deal with restaurants and they shouldn't really have crab together things, and I want Philip Preston from Polyscience, my friend, to get as much business as is humanly possible on his brand new circulator, which is now available in William Sonoma for I think seven or eight hundred dollars, something like that. However, it is very easy to build your own immersion circulator, they're not quite as nice. But you can look on the on the web.
+
+[4:30] I've done it myself back in the day for as little as fifty dollars if you're really a good eBay searcher. But even if you buy all the stuff new, you can get everything, everything uh for about for under $150, $150, $200. Uh, a good place to look for cheap temperature controllers is auber instruments, uh A-U-B-E-R uh dot com. You can also uh then you know you can use things like immersion uh coffee heaters, like those little things you're supposed to put in coffee mugs. You get like three or four or five of those because you need a thousand watts of heating basically, and an aquarium pump, and then once you have the temperature control with a with a therm, you know, with a thermocouple in it, uh, a bunch of heaters and a pump, you're done.
+
+[5:06] I mean, it's kind of you know crab together. I will warn you about this as well. I shocked the hell out of myself the first couple times I built this because those heaters leak a little bit of electricity. But if you're willing to spend a little bit of time, I I could build one probably from parts in under an hour, but you know, if you've never done it before, give yourself like four hours. But uh, you know, it's fairly easy to do.
+
+[5:23] There's a bunch of um websites devoted to this. In fact, in our forums, there's a section on in cooking Issues forums. There's a section where people have posted some of their do-it-yourself uh circulators. Uh, and uh, you know, that's a good way to go in a dorm because it doesn't, you know, there's no open flame, and you could put out serious restaurant quality food out of your dorm with that. Now, here's the problem.
+
+[5:42] In order to do really good low temperature work, you need to be able to put a really good sear on something when it's done, right? Now, here's where I'm about to recommend something that you're not supposed to do. See, they think your microwave is safe because they've never seen someone really use a microwave. Now, I'm not just talking getting a case of light bulbs out of the closet and blowing them up every Saturday night, which is what I used to do. You can use a microwave to get up to 800 degrees Celsius.
+
+[6:05] Well, wait, I forget what that is. It's like 1800 degrees Fahrenheit, something absurd. Uh, here's what you do. You go to the hardware store, get yourself some silicon carbide, silicon carbide sharpening stones, right? You put insulating fire bricks around and put them in your microwave, turn it on, walk away.
+
+[6:19] In about 10 minutes, those uh silicone carbide uh blocks are gonna be glowing red, red hot, okay? Because they're what's called a micro uh they accept microwaves, they absorb microwaves, silicon carbide does. Now, you have like an amazing hot rock searing plate where you can sear the bejesus out of anything. You can melt metal, you can use your microwave to smelt metal. You can do some serious things.
+
+[6:42] Look up uh metal smelter microwave. There's an article on it in popular science in 2003. You can melt metal in your microwave, you can certainly sear a piece of meat in it. So just get a couple of silicon carbide uh uh sharpening stones, insulate them somehow with fire brick or with uh you know corning ware on top of like little things, and then turn it up till it glows red hot and sear away to your heart's content. Do not light your dorm on fire.
+
+[7:04] It's her first year at college. Well, um I mean, if it was anything like my first year of college, this will be the safest thing she's done. Anyway, I'm not saying to go do that, I'm just saying these are options. These are options. All right, Nastasha, they're options.
+
+[7:17] We have a call. All right. Uh hope that helps Lucy. Uh uh hi caller, you're on the air. Hi, Dave, good to talk to you.
+
+[7:24] This is uh Derek calling from Seattle. Hey, Derek. Uh I'm looking for some tips on doing sous vide pot rows. So um I like things that are done at a little bit lower temperature. My wife likes things that are done at a little bit higher temperature.
+
+[7:38] So I'm trying to find the sweet spot where uh I get something that's kind of has the texture of a traditional braise, which is what my wife likes. It's something that's not quite so dried out. Okay. Here here are you using a vacuum machine or are you using Ziplocks or what are you using? I'm using uh a vacuum machine and then a uh uh used lab circulating bath.
+
+[7:59] Oh, yeah. Which one by the way? Which which company? It's uh Fisher Scientific. Okay, so that's probably it's most likely it's uh it's an old poly science because they used to build uh Fisher's as well as I think VWRs.
+
+[8:10] I think. Anyway. So here's what I would say. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Uh the thing to be careful of, obviously, with used circulators is that a lot of times the bearings and things go bad.
+
+[8:17] Uh here's what here's what I would recommend. Uh there's no way to get a completely tradition. First of all, over reduce your sauce before you put it in the bag. That's the first it's the first thing you always need to do. Over reduce it well beyond what you think a normal uh a normal uh braise should be, because the meat when it cooks in the bag is going to release juices and and seriously water down your juice.
+
+[8:35] That's the that's the first step. Okay. Uh and it's a classic mistake people make. Uh the other one is that you know, although you can go as low as fifty-seven degrees or even lower when you're doing this, right? Most people prefer uh more of a traditional temperature.
+
+[8:48] I find a happy medium is somewhere between sixty and sixty-two Celsius, okay. Once you get up, although some people cook as high as seventy, what I think once you get above sixty-five or so, you're losing a lot of the benefits of uh of low temperature cooking, but then in that 60 to 62, 63 zone is a nice happy medium. It's just barely still pink, it's still got a lot of moistness to it, and you're gonna have uh I think you're gonna have a good result. But some people go as high as 70 even in in the bag, and you can try that too. It's still gonna retain more moisture than it would uh cooking in a traditional in a brave situation, but just make sure to over reduce your sauce, and I think a happy medium is gonna be somewhere between 60 and 62.
+
+[9:25] I would also uh really burn the hell out of it, not burn, but you know what I mean, really roast the hell out of some scrap meat and throw it in the bag, and it's gonna give some of those higher temperature flavors that your wife uh is craving, but still retain some of the texture that that you want. Does that help? Uh yeah, I I will say I've I've done it in the uh in the rain. I think I did it at about 65 for for 24 hours. I think one one issue that I have is it didn't quite soften up enough for her, and and and I'm typically using grass-fed beef, so I'm wondering uh what sort of difference that makes.
+
+[9:52] So at 62, you're gonna want to go for two days, about a little under two at 60, you're gonna want to go for two days. So I think you maybe you should also try going a little bit longer. So, like a good number for for like a short rib, you know, it's slightly different, but a good number for a short rib would be 60 degrees Celsius for 48 to 50 50 hours, somewhere in that range. And so 62 to 63, you're gonna want to go uh around the same amount of time. I wouldn't go as high as 65 because that's right where you're gonna squeeze a bunch of water out, so you might as well go a little higher if you're gonna go 65.
+
+[10:20] It's stay in the 62, 63, 60 to 63 range in there for about two days. Okay, sounds great. All right, give it a shot. All right, thank a lot. Thank you.
+
+[10:29] We have another caller? Yeah, I think we do. Hello, you're on the air. Hi, yeah. My name is Dennis.
+
+[10:34] And uh I'm a big fan of you guys. Um do you mind if I ask like a career question, sort of a cooking focused question? Sure. Okay. Um uh I am of you, I gotta say, all kind of jealous of what you do.
+
+[10:43] Um, you know just thinking about food all the time and experimenting, being on sort of the that intellectual side, you know, things. Uh I'm a cook right now. I cook at a very um well regarded restaurant in DC. But I'm really a lot more interested in more of a research or teaching role, something in more academic settings potentially eventually. Right.
+
+[11:12] And uh I was wondering if you have any advice or how you got to where you are, what skills you did have or what you did may have helped you get to what you're doing right now. That's an excellent question. So uh uh I knew that uh I didn't really want to be a restaurant chef because uh it just it just wasn't in me. It's it's not in me to to go and and pound out uh you know uh a service every day. Also I'm not organized enough to be a real restaurant chef, which I think you really really need to be.
+
+[11:40] The one skill that uh I did have that's really helpful, or still have, I hope, is that uh I can read anything almost and understand what's going on. So from a research standpoint, you want to be able to first of all you you want to be very curious, you want to be able to absorb things, and you want to be able to focus on problems very very closely. That's like that's the first thing to do pre mean to do precisely what I do, right? Now to be involved in just the food world in general, I think um you you know, if you're not gonna be a cook, then you know then and you still want to be in in the in the field. I mean, writing if you can write is a very good is a good way to do it.
+
+[12:16] I mean I know a lot of people that that have done that. Uh you know, for instance, my sister in law, uh you know, Wiley Dufrein's wife, my sister-in-law, which is actually my wife's sister. She, she you know, went to French culinary where I teach, and she's now the you know, editor in chief of the Food network magazine. So I mean there's lots of there's lots of different pathways, um, whether it be in writing or or in media. Now on the research side, you know, there's a couple of things you can do there.
+
+[12:38] I know some people that do uh you know consultancy work or they have uh you know specific high-tech catering kind of catering opportunities where they don't necessarily want to, but they want to spend more time researching because in a catering thing you can you know focus on one job and you don't have a daily pound out of a service and you can get more time to focus. The main problem with the kind of cooking that I that I do at the French culinary is that it's very hard to do when you have a daily service to grind out because you just don't have the time to focus on uh on solving problems. That like you know, and you're not necessarily going to be able, if you take a job at a big comp company doing uh kind of cooking in that way, you're not necessarily going to be able to focus on problems that interest you. But there are places that have jobs like that, like Cuisine Solutions who does a lot of uh low temperature work. They hired someone who uh that I know you know who went to the French culinary, and he gets to do a lot of research, a lot of interesting work.
+
+[13:26] So there are opportunities out there, but I think to do you know, just to do this kind of work, you just you know you you need to be able to you know it's like what Wiley does too. Wiley reads all patent, you know, patents constantly he's constantly reading. So I think you know, if you're very curious and you always want to learn, it helps if you can write, but it's not you know not necessarily you know a prerequisite. But um, you know I'm sorry I couldn't give any more specific advice, but uh that's um that's kind of what I did. I don't know if you know that's great.
+
+[13:53] Really? All right, well well uh thanks for call thanks for calling. And you can you know, always post anything to our to our forums or to the the blog and you know we'll try and help you out. I like anyone to get in this field that that can. Surely well.
+
+[14:04] Thank you. Thank you. We have anyone else? Yeah, hello, you're on the air. Hi, this is Dan from New York.
+
+[14:11] Hey, Dan. Hey, so I just have a I guess a question. I'm cooking this chicken. I got a heritage chicken for the first time. And it smells a little, I guess, sulfuric because it has, I guess, blood in the bag.
+
+[14:14] Huh. And I was wondering, what should I do in terms of will that affect the taste or how should I cook that? Or should I even cook it? Well, it smell well, it smells like like sulfur or like like a like a like a like rotting. Smell like it's rotting?
+
+[14:33] Just like when I would when I asked before, they said it was something about how it's packaged with the blood and it's just a little strong. So it is kind of old, um, because I'd gotten it through this roundabout way. Yeah. So I was just wondering, do you think that's safe to eat? And if so, should I worry about the flavor at all?
+
+[14:50] Was the bag did the b was the bag inflated at all? Was it still tight? No, it I mean the bird looks beautiful itself. Yeah. It's just And the bag was still tight.
+
+[14:57] Yeah, still tight, still everything. Looks nice. It was a cryo bag, right? Correct. Okay.
+
+[15:02] Does it it doesn't smell blue cheesy at all, right? No, it's it's just like it has a strong arm. It might not even be sulfur, it just smells like something, and I was kind of curious if that would be in the taste. Alright, well, if you've smelled uh rotten chicken before, then you know, and it smells like that, then I would avoid. Um you could try just giving it a c like a quick dip rinse in in um in uh you know in uh in water or vinegar vinegar a little bit to try and see what happens to it, pull it out, see how see how it smells.
+
+[15:30] Uh I have been in your situation before where you really want to cook something, you really want it to work and you really want it to be delicious because you've been thinking about it, right? So uh um and then like you've handed over to your wife and they smell it and they're like, Are you freaking cracked? Are you gonna serve that to me? Do you know what I mean? So that's another that's another good thing to do.
+
+[15:48] Like if you feel nervous about it, I wouldn't I wouldn't bother with it. Or if you really want to, I would test it on yourself. I would cook it for yourself. I've done that before too. Test it on yourself and just eat it yourself and see what you think rather than subjecting your your friends and and family to it.
+
+[16:02] I'm sorry that I can't give anything kind of more specific because I can't smell it, but you know, as a general rule of thumb, never serve to someone else anything that even makes you a little bit nervous. I mean, that's kind of a rule that I like to live by because I do serve bizarre things uh quite often, and I want people to trust me. So, you know, uh, as far as I know, I haven't gotten anyone horribly sick. I'd like to kind of maintain that record. I think it's kind of a good call.
+
+[16:26] But, you know, if you feel comfortable with it, by all means cook it yourself and see uh, you know, eat it yourself and see see what you think. Do you know what I mean? Yeah, absolutely. All right, thank you. All right, thank you.
+
+[16:36] Have a good one. You too. It always makes me nervous, uh, Nastasha, to uh to cook something if you think it might be bad, right? Bear. The bear was not bad.
+
+[16:46] We're talking about the bear we cooked in the thing. She Nastasha is nervous that the bear had trichinosis, which is indeed possible. Trichinosis is a worm that infects muscles. It's it's an awful disease. It's measured in uh number of worms per square uh per cubic centimeter muscle mass.
+
+[16:59] It's a terrible disease to get. Uh however, you kill it by cooking it, which is what I did, Nastasha. You should have eaten that bear. Nastasha apparently not taking Jeffrey Steingard's advice last week. Some of the best advice you'll ever hear on on uh on learning to become a good eater.
+
+[17:13] Jeffrey Steingarden, one of the best best eaters that I've ever met. Uh, but eat everything. You know, so so long as it's safe. He would eat something that's unsafe, because that's Jeffrey. But you know, as long as it's safe, uh, you should try it.
+
+[17:25] Uh anyway. So uh I think we're coming up on our first yeah, first commercial break here. Uh we're coming back at you in a couple of minutes. Cooking issues. Oh!
+
+[17:35] How do you feel, brother? Feeling good? You feel good? So much bone brother. How do you feel, mate?
+
+[17:42] I'm feeling called your name. I don't want all people to know you in here. How you feel, fella? Sure getting down. Look at him.
+
+[17:54] We're gonna have a bunk good time. We're gonna have a bunk good time. We're gonna have a bunk good time. We're gonna have a bunk good time. We've gotta take your high.
+
+[18:20] Alright. Yeah, let's go on there. We've gotta take the high-human. Now I won't have a body. Let bread blow about two courses.
+
+[18:50] And then I'm gonna wave in. Let's go and do it with dinner. Now alright. I'm gonna get that bellow with a little horn over there. Hello and welcome back to Cooking Issues.
+
+[18:59] I'm Dave Arnold, your host of cooking issues. Call in your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. And while we're waiting, let us take a question. So uh from an email question.
+
+[19:13] So Bob Good writes in and he says, I like your write-up of herb grinders on the website, but how do they fit in? How do they compare to a mortar and pestle at home? And keeping wife is uh wife's motto is clutter is the enemy. Sounds like our wives would be good friends. Uh so for those of you that don't know what I'm talking about, uh herb grinder is the euphemism for a marijuana grinder that uh pot you know, pot users, potheads, as I lovingly call them, uh use to uh kind of grind up their marijuana before they roll it into a cigarette or stuff in a pipe, whatever they're gonna do with it.
+
+[19:40] Uh they're a fantastic way to grind up small quantities of spices when you don't want to, you know, coffee grinders they don't really work for small quantities because the blades don't hit your spices. They're fantastic. And you can look on our website at ground, I don't know what I do, like 10 different spices, 15 different 10, something like that. So you can see kind of what results you get on different spices. Now, the the question Bob has is listen, I already have a mortar and pestle at home, so why do I need this?
+
+[20:03] You're probably, you know, Bob, you're probably right. Uh if your mortar and pestle is small enough to be handy, they work uh pretty well unless you have a big problem with your mortar and pestle with spices bouncing out of it. I don't know that you need to have this as well. This is m you know mostly uh uh useful for someone like me who's at a cooking school and you don't want to lug over lug around your mortar and pestle or if you're gonna be cooking off site. They're incredibly tiny.
+
+[20:24] So you can stick it kind of in your uh you know, right next to your peeler in your utensil drawer. So it's useful having around. At home, I use my mortar and pestle, but when I'm at school, I use the herb grinders. So I hope that was that was helpful. I think that uh answered that that question.
+
+[20:39] Uh Ray Mac 007 asks, he was thinking about cooling um sauces and then vacuum, putting them in vacuum bags and storing them into in his freezer until needed. Are there any downsides to storing sauces this way? Um not r not really. I mean, uh it's a really good way to store something because uh when you once you put it in a vacuum bag, you're not gonna have any uh water loss or kind of freezer burn problems as long as the vacuum bags that you're using are um you know are are oxygen impermeable. They're meant for for freezer storage.
+
+[21:08] You want to get ones that are meant for uh cooking and chilling, and then the great thing about uh bat vagging bac that's sorry, vagging down sauces, is that you can then throw those bags directly into uh hot water and reheat them in the bag without the possibility of scorching them or or you know having any sort of problems. In fact, you can reheat several different kinds of sauces at the same time in the same water uh if you have them all in bags. So it really is a very good uh way to do it uh if you're doing large quantities, and and that you know that they'll really last a long time that way. And he says he's assuming that uh emulsion-based sauces would not be a candidate for this process. I would guess that's probably right.
+
+[21:46] You can freeze emulsion-based sauces is if you stabilize them with different stabilizers, but I've never really experimented that because I haven't tried to get extended storage out of sauces in in bags that way. I mean, it's not kind of my focus is always on uh kind of achieving new new quality benchmarks instead of trying to necessarily um extend the shelf life. But if I was doing it for my house or for uh a restaurant where that was useful, I'm sure I would have researched how to make an emulsion uh kind of not breaking the bag. There are people that have done that kind of work, so it's definitely definitely possible. So I would go ahead and do that.
+
+[22:20] It's also a great way to store uh fruit pureees. They the sauces all of a sudden they store flat in bags, they're frozen, they're really easy to reheat. So I think that's a really good that's a really good technique. Um now, before I answer uh the next question I have, I just want to uh say that last week New York magazine really shoved it to me. They really gave me the shaft because they wrote up my favorite tomato that I wait every freaking year.
+
+[22:47] I wait for this tomato. Uh it's the Aunt Ruby's German Green Tomato from Stokes Farm. They're at the Union Square Green Market. Um they're on Saturdays, and I think also Wednesdays, the other day they're there. And their Aunt Ruby's German Green is the greatest tomato I have ever had.
+
+[22:59] It's my f favorite tomato. And New York magazine wrote their particular one up as the greatest tomato in New York. And consequently, now they're completely wiped out. Like I got there at noon and they said they'd been sold out since 10 a.m. Because everyone from New York magazine apparently who reads the magazine went and bought all of this, all of uh Stokes Farm's tomatoes.
+
+[23:23] So I was pretty bent, pretty bent about that. Um luckily for me, their second favorite tomato of the uh you know in the New York magazine was the German stripe, which by the way, Aunt Ruby was a real human being uh and uh Aunt Ruby Arnold, no relation to me. And uh, you know, she not only came up with the uh with the with the Aunt Ruby's German Green, I believe she was also the source or one of the sources for the German stripe, which is a huge red uh um yellow and uh red beautiful tomato. Uh and the um Stokes also has that. It's my second favorite of their tomatoes.
+
+[23:57] I'm growing that one too. Yeah, but apparently your landlord made you throw them away. Anyway, so oh yeah, anyway. So, but Stokes's uh Stokes is is excellent, but they didn't write up Stokes' as being the uh second best. So they cleaned out some other farmer's German stripe and cleaned out his ruby.
+
+[24:11] So I spent this weekend eating stripes, which are which are also excellent, but it brings me to my pet peeve, which is first of all, you can't just call out a tomato variety and say it's great, right? You you know, because I've had Aunt Ruby's German Green, which is a large green, kind of like weird shaped tomato, and the bottom gets a pinkish red blush when when when it's ripening up. Because you know, you look at the bottom of a tomato, not the part attached to the plant, to see kind of that's it ripens from there first and travels up towards the uh where it attaches to the plant, and it also softens at the bottom first and gets and goes harder as it goes up to the top. So when you're judging the ripeness of a tomato, you want to look at the bottom first, right? See how she's going.
+
+[24:44] And you have to know what an ant ruby looks like. I think it should start getting that pink uh flush at the bottom, and I think it should be getting a little soft, although the guys at Stokes uh disagree with me on this because they don't want you mangling their tomatoes by picking them up and squeezing them. That is a rotten thing to do to their tomatoes. Don't do that. Um, uh here's here's a I don't know how I got on that, but here's here here's the thing.
+
+[25:07] Uh their ant rubies are sublime, and other people's ant rubies are crap, right? Different tomato varieties taste very different depending on where they're grown, how they're grown, you know, the the location, the type of soil and everything. It's not enough to just say, I like ant rubies. You have to say, I like although they are by and large an excellent variety. You have to say, I like this farmer's ant rubies, I like that farmer's ant rubies.
+
+[25:29] So, you know, you can't just go and buy a variety, you really have to find a supplier, a farmer that you like and get their tomatoes of that particular variety. I mean, that's the thing I think also people then they they just put out big farm stands, so hey, these are all heirloom tomatoes. I'm like, that's great. 80% of these taste like like nothing, they're garbage. Like a lot of heirloom tomatoes, I I apologize.
+
+[25:49] A lot of heirloom tomatoes don't taste that great, or they don't have that great great a texture. And so you'll go to these farmers' stands and they'll have heirloom tomatoes. And this happened to me before because I feel when I see something I've never had before, I'm compelled to try it. Like I'm compelled to try it. That's just kind of how I am.
+
+[26:04] And uh, there's a farmer's market right by my house in the lower east side on Sundays, and as I saw a tomato, I was like, oh, uh, this looks interesting because it had a shape of an ant ruby, but it was red with like very thin yellow yellow stripes through it. And I was like, uh, what varieties is? He goes, I don't know, it's an heirloom tomato. I'm like, you're you're uh I can't curse on the radio. I'm trying to think of something to say, you know, to insult the man because you know, thank you.
+
+[26:28] Now I can't ever replicate this experience. Thank you. You know what I mean? Heirloom tomato. That's like saying it it's a vehicle with four wheels.
+
+[26:35] Well, is it a Mac truck? Is it is it a Hyundai? You know, am I getting a Lincoln Continental or am I getting a gremlin? You know what I mean? I don't know.
+
+[26:42] You know what I mean? Please, you know, to tell like tell the if you're not actually the farmer at the market, at least tell the people the varieties that you're selling so that we can figure out what the hell's going on as as eaters. Anyway, that tomato, now I was even angrier because I bought it and it went home. I was hoping it would suck, and then I wouldn't have to worry about trying to find it again. Only it was delicious.
+
+[27:04] You know what I mean? And and even tomatoes that some tomatoes look fairly similar, but they're different. Like there's this tomato called the Everlast, which looks like an ant Ruby if you're not experienced with it, but it isn't. It's a little more yellow than a Ruby. Anyway, so that's my stupid spiel on heirloom tomatoes.
+
+[27:19] Have you tasted your uh stripes yet, Stasi? I only had one. And how was it? It was good, but it was really tiny. Why the hell did you what why did you pick it when it wasn't ready yet?
+
+[27:27] I think the container I'm growing it in is really small, so it only allows for tiny tomatoes. Yeah. Tiny tomatoes. That's my that's my next band name right there, tiny tomatoes. All right, let me take an email question.
+
+[27:38] Uh Ryan, Ryan Santos uh wants to know about uh the book called The Handbook of Hydrocolloids. He says he's interested in hydrocolloids and and modern cooking, and most of his uh recipes he's done are just adapting other people's recipes for using hydrocolloids. And for those of you that don't know what what what I'm talking about, hydrocolloids are a group of um basically complex sugars, polysaccharides, new you know, gums, whatever you want to call them, that are used to thicken and gel, uh used to thicken and gel uh you know different products. So Xanthan gum, carrageenin, these sorts of things. And uh most people do just adapt other cook's recipes, and that's fine.
+
+[28:15] But if you want to learn more, where do you go? He he was mentioning a book called the Handbook of Hydrocolloids. That's like a $200 book. It's very technical. I read it, it's it was very useful to me.
+
+[28:25] Um, but I wouldn't be the first book on hydrocolloids I would get. The first book I will get on hydrocolloids is put out by the Egan Press. I think it's I forget how to spell it, it's like an E-A-G-A-N press, uh, which is a portion of the uh the Association of American Sereal Chemists or something like that. It's a very thin book, it's only sixty, sixty something dollars. You can get it at Kitchen Arts and Letters, uh, the world's greatest cookbook store, at least the world's greatest that I've been to.
+
+[28:51] It's here in New York City up in the 90s on Lexington Avenue. And it's a great introduction to hydrocolloids. It's extremely useful. It has a bunch of tables and charts in it that talk about uh, you know, the problems when you try and mix different hydrocolloids together. It has flow charts of trying to figure out you know how to choose what hydrocolloid to use for different systems.
+
+[29:09] Extremely readable, extremely useful. In fact, there's a that whole Egan Press put out a bunch of books. They have one on starches, which is excellent. They have one on sugars, which is excellent. Um their emulsifier one I didn't think was so useful for cooks, but I would definitely start there.
+
+[29:23] If you're hungering for more technical information after that book, you know, then by all means go to the the handbook of hydrocolloids. But the handbook of hydrocolloids is set up as a as a an ingredient by ingredient um book. It's like 300 and something pages, and it's like, you know, here's Agar, here's the chemical formula, you know, for agar, and then you know, here are its various properties. So uh, you know, I it I think it's useful to a small number of cooks, but not as useful as it could be, and not necessarily $200 worth of useful if you can go get the uh Egan Press book instead. Uh they used to run a deal on the on the uh serial chemist website.
+
+[30:03] You have to really search around for it where you could buy a one year subscription to all of the Egan Press books for 99 bucks and then you could download all of them on on PDF for just 99 dollars. And that's in fact what I did. So I have them all on on PDF like the uh you know fats which is another good one actually and I even have the ones that uh are useless to me like food colorings, useless. Uh non-nutritive sweeteners, aka all the things to make diet soda and whatnot, also fairly useless for me. But you know me, once I once I have access to it, I'm gonna download it because that's just the way I am.
+
+[30:35] I I'm a sucker for a sunk cost. You know that's why I don't go to all you can eat uh all you can eat restaurants anymore because you have to roll me out of those things in a wheelbarrow. First of all, I you know like obviously I'm not gonna eat don't be a chump and go eat the salad bar. You know, like hit the most expensive literally I don't care whether I like it or not. I walk into an all you can eat restaurant, I zero in on whatever has the highest food cost for that restaurant instantly.
+
+[30:58] Instantly and then I fill an entire plate with whatever that is whatever it is. I pound a couple plates of that then once I'm sick of eating the most expensive thing they have I find the second most expensive thing they have and I continue to eat that until I'm sick of that item. Two or three items down the line I'll start feeling physically sick but it's not until my wife pulls me away because she's disgusted to stand next to me. That is when I stop and leave an all you can eat restaurant. I have similar problems with open bars.
+
+[31:24] So I try to avoid these kinds of things now because you know as you as you get older it's it's more and more unseemly to be to be doing this sort of thing. I don't know how the hell I got in. Oh, yes, it's because I downloaded even the useless books. This is what it's like to be me, by the way. That's what it that's what it that's what it boils down to.
+
+[31:42] Uh I hope that I hope that uh answered answered your your question. And uh I think we want to go to one more commercial break. Alright, let's go to one more commercial break. Cooking issues, call in your questions to 718. Uh what is it, Nastasha?
+
+[31:56] 718. Oh my god, I can't believe this. 497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. When I left a home this morning, I promise I would think to stay real straight and sober.
+
+[32:42] I swore I wouldn't drink bed whisking. Before the night was over. I started in to say bedsky. Coming back at you with cooking issues. I'm Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues.
+
+[33:35] Call in your questions. You have another like 10-15 minutes to call in your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. And today's cooking issues is brought to you by Hearst Ranch. Hearst Ranch is the nation's largest single source supplier of free-range, all-natural, grass-fed, and grass-finished beef.
+
+[33:56] Since 1865, the Hearst family has raised cattle on the rich, sustainable native grasslands of the Central California coast. The result is beef with extraordinary flavor that's as memorable and natural as the surrounding landscape. And for more information, they would like you to go to www.herstranch.com. That's one word, www.hearstranch.com. And while I, although, you know, I've never had the beef from Hurst Hearst Ranch, you know, if they want to send me some, I would love to try it.
+
+[34:24] You um I I want to uh say that last week apparently I did not give our sponsor TechServe enough of a of a run because I forgot about mentioning it until the very end of the show and basically blasted through it at the speed of sound as fast as I could speak, which when I want to is quite quickly. And uh I used to do that in debate in high school, speak very quickly. It's a technique called spreading for all those who didn't go to debate in high school. Anyway, so I apologize to TechServe. A fine a fine service for fixing your computer.
+
+[34:53] TechServe. Alright. Nastashi, feel better now? Yeah, that's better. Yeah.
+
+[34:57] Uh oh, and by the way, uh, Mr. Santos, his second part of his question was how do you get, I swear to God, how do you how do I get a date with the hammer? And I I have to say, you don't bot don't bother trying with that one. Don't, you know, she's uh, you know, I just I would I would stay away from that one, right, Sazi? Right?
+
+[35:16] Yes. I'm just kidding, Nastasha. Just kidding. All right. Brandon asks using larger ice with reduced surface area will reduce the rate at which ice dilutes a cocktail, but how does that affect how long it holds temperature in a finished drink?
+
+[35:30] Well, using larger ice, hold temperature in a drink longer with less dilution and smaller ice. Okay. Uh he's not very concerned about shaking or stirring, but he's more mostly worried about um the final drink. Um, and how does that differ from something that has been chilled uh basically as opposed to something that's coming from from room temp, for instance, pouring a spear on the rocks. All right, here's the here is the answer to this question, as far as I can tell.
+
+[35:54] That particular experiment I haven't run in probably a year and a half. But my memory of it is this. Uh a larger uh ice cube will in fact dilute less in your uh in the cocktail, but it will not keep it as cold. Now, what are we talking about? If you put a lot of small ice in, to stir a drink, you put small ice in, that drink will probably hover around the like one, you know, one or two it's gonna start out at like min anywhere between minus four and minus uh a half a degree Celsius, depending on how they stir it.
+
+[36:26] Okay, that's gonna be the the range. Uh a shaken drink is going to be in the range of minus seven to minus three degrees Celsius if it's done properly. Okay. When you pour that drink into smaller cubes, it's gonna maintain its temperature better, but it will get more diluted because of the extra surface area, especially if they throw it, pour it onto ice that you didn't shake off, that you didn't get the water. You'll get an initial hit of dilution out of that that's gonna dilute it right out of the gate.
+
+[36:53] Um in that case, I actually recommend using that. Don't yell at me, cocktail people, please. I don't want to hear it. But I mean it's not of course I want to hear it. Let's have an argument.
+
+[37:02] I'm just kidding. But the um but if I was going to shake a drink and then serve it kind of on on the rocks, I frankly think you'd be better off serving it with the things you shook with, especially if the ice was slightly larger as they still looked good because you've already gotten the surface water off of those things. Do you know what I mean? You're not adding extra surface water. But you know, I'm sure there's people that'll disagree with me.
+
+[37:22] Uh, and I'd be happy to have that discussion because I'm just thinking about this off the top of my head. A larger ice cube uh will, you know, so if you're using small ice cubes, let's assume you're going to maintain a temperature within a degree or two of zero for a while. You know, the experience I had with a big ice cube is that the temperature is going to go up to about you know somewhere in the range of five degrees Celsius, somewhere like that. So it's not going to keep it anywhere near as cold. So long as it's cold enough, right, then I think it's going to be it's gonna be um okay.
+
+[37:52] Um it's just not gonna maintain um the temperature nearly as well. If it maintains it enough for you, then I think that that's okay because remember, there's a it's it's very strict. There is no melting without chilling, and there is no uh chilling without melting. So there's no way with an ice cube to keep a drink uh well, unless you use freezer ice, but you know, stay tuned. I promised last week I was gonna post on the blog, but I spent like you know, ten hours working on the charts for the blog post, so it's gonna go up soon, I promise on stirring and ice.
+
+[38:25] But um that you don't get to win, so you either get a drink that's more diluted because you had to melt more ice, or you get uh a drink that's not as cold because it's not as diluted. It's basically a one-to-one. In fact, I'll I'll spoil it a little bit. I gave uh I did a a test, right? So when you're stirring a cocktail, you uh when you're stirring a cocktail, it actually takes a long time for the cocktail to get to basically an equilibrium point where you're not really chilling that much more and you're not melting that much more.
+
+[38:53] It's a relative equilibrium because you're always, you know, you're you're losing energy to the to the atmosphere, so it's not a you know real equilibrium. But you can definitely, when you look at a chart of temperature versus time as you're stirring, it basically drops very quickly at first the temperature, and also is diluting a lot at first, and then it basically plateaus out, and you get only very small changes from from there on out. But uh, and when you when you're shaking a drink, that that curve plateaus very quickly, like in the in 12 to 15 seconds in there. You you're basically hitting the plateau. In uh in a stirred drink, it's quite a bit longer, like on the order of uh one or two minutes of of stirring is where you hit the real plateau.
+
+[39:28] Um so uh I did a test where instead of um pulling basically stirring for two minutes until it was done, I put thermocouples in and I stirred with small ice until I hit exactly uh a certain temperature. I forget what it was, I had to go look up, but I think it was like minus uh minus 0.6 Celsius, something like that, right? And I I poured the drink out. Then I took small ice and stirred it until it reached exactly minus 0.6 Celsius, poured it out, and uh both drinks had identical dilutions, identical, but one right was stirred in, I have to look it up, but it's something like 30 seconds, and the other one was stirred in like a minute. And so, you know, that's why stirring, why we said I think before a couple times ago, is there's kind of more of an art to stirring a cocktail because you really can affect the dilution and the temperature of the drink by um how long you stir, whether you stir fast, whether you stir slow, whether you use big ice, whether you use little ice.
+
+[40:30] In a shaker, uh it's so violent that uh basically all things equal out, and you get to your equilibrium point in if you do it enough, basically no matter what you do. Um so in stirring, I mean in shaking, rather, where you have everyone really worried about their technique on shaking, uh, we find that it doesn't make that much of a difference. The most difference you're gonna get, as long as you shake enough, the most difference you're gonna get from shaking is actually in how you finish it, whether you strain it or not, whether you know whether you push the gate down when you're pouring. Like these are kinds of things that make a big difference in the finished cocktail. Um in stirring, where you're not really adding a lot of texture, though, those things do matter, the size of the ice, the how fast you stir, how slow you stir, because almost no one, in fact, no one I've ever seen stirs a drink until it reaches its temperature plateau.
+
+[41:15] Uh and so, you know, this is spoiling a little bit what you know what's going to go with the blog post. So uh, but but hopefully, you know, the the this one chart that I'm gonna put up where basically, you know, I pull two drinks at the same temperature, even though one was stirred for a minute and one was stirred for 30 seconds, and they're basically identical from a dilution standpoint, will show that really, you know, that this is the fundamental rule of cocktails is that um you know there is that chilling and dilution are linked, in extra inextricably linked, and that there is no chilling without dilution, and there is no dilution without um chilling. Um now, a lot of people, they uh you know they say, but you know, my ice comes from the from the fridge and uh uh for the freezer rather. And uh we have a chart that's coming into the blog post about that as well. And uh it it is true that there is some energy stored in an ice cube that um when you when you put an ice cube from the freezer into um into your drink, it chills your drink a little bit before it starts melting.
+
+[42:24] But that effect is not as big as you think, right? So if you were to stir two dr and you're gonna see this chart for yourself, if you stir two drinks, one with ice cubes from the freezer and one with ice cubes that have been left out on the you know on the counter until they've reached up to zero degrees uh Celsius, you will see that the uh freezer ice cubes only get the drink like half a degree colder, right? And and and I I really don't know whether this is an artifact or not. Some some scientists will have to call in and talk to us about it. But you know, Ebon Clem and uh Thomas Evan Clem is the uh B you know head of BR guest um uh beverage program and you know, well-known bartender and used to do a lot of high-tech cocktails, still still still works with a lot of these things, and Thomas Waugh is you know uh bartender at Death and Co.
+
+[43:11] Great bartender. We we all did this stirring uh thing at Tails of the Cocktail, and they noticed that when they used freezer ice as opposed to not freezer ice, that their freezer ice actually took longer to chill than uh a drink down than the one that was at zero degrees. Um and we replicated it, and in my ex in the experiments that I ran with them and one that I did separately, I found that that was also the case. I don't feel comfortable enough saying that that's actually happening, that it actually but it was it's interesting that that you know that that even appears to be the case. I don't really know why uh that would be except for the fact that maybe it takes longer to get the energy out from from raising a temperature than it does just to melt it because melting is such a a big wallop.
+
+[43:51] So, but in the chart you'll see in the blog post if you go to it at www.cookingissues.com, um it in fact took longer to chill a drink that was uh with ice creams from the freezer, and it didn't even make it to a final temperature that was that much lower. So you don't really win by um you don't really win by using ice that's in the freezer. The other interesting thing about uh freezer ice, people think that ice maintains a temperature for a long time below zero, it's not the case. We froze a cube, and you'll see a picture of it, um, around a thermocouple, and then put it into a big ice bin, and we let it sit there, and it went from minus 20 Celsius, which is about minus four or so in in Fahrenheitville, and uh it came all the way up to zero in in under 20 minutes. So ice doesn't really maintain its uh it's below freezing temperatures that long um because it's such a good conductor of heat, um, and you're not really winning from freezer ice.
+
+[44:49] Uh and the fundamental rule I think holds, remember there is no chilling without dilution, and there is no dilution without chilling. And with that, I think we will sign off from cooking issues. One more shout out to our sponsor, Hearst Ranch, cooking issues on Heritage Radio Network. Vicious visions. Oh, you did crap me on this color.
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+[0:13] Hello, you're listening to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network. Uh coming to you every Tuesday from 12 to 1245, where we answer all of your cooking questions. You know, usually tech-related questions, but we like any any kind of questions. Uh we're here live in the studio at 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128.
+
+[0:36] Call in. I'm here today, of course, with Cooking Issues own Nastasha Lopez, the hammer. And uh, you know, she's here to keep me keep me honest, I guess. Uh today's food today's show is brought to you by Whole Foods Market. Uh Whole Foods Market is turning 80, and they've partnered with some of its favorite friends for 30 days of Twitter giveaways.
+
+[0:53] Follow at Whole Foods Sync. Whole Foods NYC. I should read this beforehand, really. Uh follow at Whole Foods NYC and use the uh hashtag WFM NYC B Day. That's Whole Food Market New York City B Day.
+
+[1:12] WFM N Y C B Day to qualify and win prizes from Brooklyn Salsa Company, Rick's Picks, make good pickles, uh Gus Soda, uh Housing Works, whose bookstore you should support on uh Lafayette Street in uh Manhattan, and the New York Botanical Garden, an excellent place to visit, and more. Actually, those really are good places to get together. That's a 30th birthday. What'd I say? 80.
+
+[1:32] Oh, 80? Well, 80, 30. Yeah, same same same same thing. 30th birthday. Whole Foods is not yet 80.
+
+[1:38] Although more power to you, Whole Foods, may you make 80. Uh, right? Anyway. Uh okay. So uh today's first question is uh a follow-up on last week's question from Ryan Santos.
+
+[1:50] The first part of his question has to do with uh Nastasha. Uh he was the call um the person last week who asked for a date. I said uh don't even try, don't bother. He still wants to know Nastasha's sign. Uh it's uh Taurus, not Sagittarius Taurus, correct?
+
+[1:59] Oh I think he was saying that's his sign. Oh, uh I don't know. Uh anyway, his question his question was um we have a new infusion technique. I'm not sure if we talked about it on the radio or not. But basically what you do is you take uh uh whipped cream maker uh and uh that takes nitrous uh oxide uh chargers.
+
+[2:20] You put uh I usually use liquor, but you can use any liquid. You put something porous with flavor in it, herbs, like cilantro or Thai basil, uh regular basil, I guess, uh things like ginger, things like cocoa nibs, anything porous basically. You put it in with the with the liquor and you charge it with uh nitrous and you uh which is laughing gas, you know. Most people uh it turns out a lot of people who use these things use it to get high, right? They use uh the laughing gas.
+
+[2:47] Yeah, sure you don't. Anyway. I really don't. Okay. Uh anyway.
+
+[2:50] Uh I I tried it once in high school and I didn't actually like it, so uh uh I don't really use it to get high. But apparently there's a lot of people out there who don't even cook who have the equipment to do this. Uh so maybe they should try it with uh with um with liquor. Anyway, so you you charge it with nitrous, you swirl it around for about a minute, and then when you release the pressure inside the canister, basically uh you know you've the pressures forced all the uh liquor into your into the food that you're trying to get the flavor out of. And when you release it, all that stuff uh boils back out again, and you have a really very, very quick infused uh liquor.
+
+[3:24] You can see it on our blog, www.cooking issues.com. It's a good technique. Uh anyway, Ryan wants to know does this also work with solids? Uh and the answer is yes. I haven't tried it, but uh uh Alex and Aki at uh Ideas in Food, go check their blog, uh did it with uh Mozzarella, and there's a bunch of other people out there now who are using this technique to infuse solids with with flavor.
+
+[3:47] Anyway, uh so that answers that question, right? Right. Okay. Uh now let's go to some other email questions. Now remember, we will answer your questions live if you call in at 718-497-2128.
+
+[3:58] That's 718-497-2128. Okay. So Sam Liechtenstein calls in or Stein, what do you think? Liechtenstein? Okay.
+
+[4:07] Uh anyway, Sam c uh wrote in and said, uh, do you uh disagree or agree with the following statement um made by uh a fellow by the name of Chris uh Onstad, who's the uh author of a comic book called uh webcomic called uh Eakewood, and he has uh a cookbook, it's actually no longer available on Amazon, and uh Sam thinks it's a great cookbook. I have no idea because I've I've never read it. I haven't read any comic book cookbooks, actually, have you? No. No?
+
+[4:32] I'm willing to willing to read it. But anyway, uh so uh Chris Onstad, the author says uh in the book, once you make a potato chewy, and he's referring to hash browns, uh how you sh this should never happen to a hash brown. Once you make a potato chewy, you're doing things to it so wrong that it would be best if you just gave that person the potato and let them take it home and try to make sense of it themselves. Basically, if you make a hash brown that is chewy, I might as well just hand the dude a raw potato and let him go home and work with it because you've done a far worse thing to him. And Sam wants to know if I agree or not.
+
+[5:02] Uh well, I do agree that uh hash brown should not be not be chewy. Uh but um potatoes can be chewy uh and and be good. And so the the first thing I thought of was uh our stretchy potato ice cream, right? Because we make this ice cream and you read about it on our blog. I think I've mentioned it on the radio before, right?
+
+[5:19] Yeah. Where uh you but you blend cooked potatoes, steamed potatoes, into ice cream base and you freeze it, and what you get is this chewy, stretchy potato ice cream, and I think is is quite good. Um but I'm I'm assuming that that's not what Sam was wondering about. So I did some more research on the internet, and uh most people point to potatoes becoming chewy when you microwave them. And other people actually make chewy uh sweet potatoes uh by dehydrating them for for dog treats.
+
+[5:44] Apparently, if you have a dog, they like dehydrated sweet potatoes, he has cut pot uh sweet potatoes up and they turn almost into a raw hide chewy. So this led me to think well, what is it about a microwave that is going to make potatoes chewy? Uh and uh this also leads to the the answer that those people who are making hash browns chewy probably reheated the potatoes in the microwave, right? Uh and what's going on in a microwave is you are dehydrating uh the potato uh relatively quickly along a fairly large uh surface because you're actually heating not just the outside of the of the potato but uh a good region of the inner portion as well. So you're very effectively dehydrating the potato in a microwave.
+
+[6:23] So this chewiness is probably uh uh a dehydration phenomenon, right? Now uh this led me to think uh a lot of interesting things. One, uh perhaps our stretchy potato ice cream is actually a dehydration phenomenon because freezing is actually uh dehydrating. So what you're doing is you you take a starch that's got a lot of liquid in it that you've cooked, it's potato starch, and in the this is the ice cream I'm talking about, and you start freezing it. What happens?
+
+[6:47] Uh ice crystals are forming in the ice cream, and the water is being withdrawn from the starch complex as it's freezing up. So maybe uh the reason the potato ice cream is uh stretchy and chewy is we're partially dehydrating the potato starch as it freezes. What do you think, Staszi? Good? Yeah, that's a good idea.
+
+[7:03] You like that theory? Mm-hmm. It could be totally wrong, but uh, it's what I was thinking about. Um then I was thinking about microwave dehydration in general. I mean, microwave is a great way to dehydrate uh some fresh herbs.
+
+[7:14] It's also a really good way to make a small quantity of really crisp bread crumbs. It works a whole lot better than uh putting bread in an oven and drying it out. You just put uh you know thin uh slices of bread in your microwave and you slowly uh microwave it. And what happens, you have to be able to get rid of the water, but what happens is is that uh the water heats up and boils off, and then uh the it basically the microwaves focus on the area where there's water. So the whole thing dries out very, very, very evenly, and you get these incredibly crisp uh bread crumbs uh or you know uh croutons, whatever, very quickly.
+
+[7:49] And it's a very good technique. The problem with it is is that if any area of the bread starts to get uh warmer, because as soon as the water is gone, um basically uh there's nothing to stop the bread from getting well above uh well above the you know the boiling point. And what happens is if any area starts turning brown, the brown uh areas, the burnt areas of the bread absorb microwaves at a ferocious rate, and so they tend to grow very, very rapidly. So if you're not careful, your uh your bread can scorch and you can get these brown marks. So you want to be careful with it.
+
+[8:21] But if you if you slowly keep checking uh as you're microwaving bread, it's a great way to make make croutons. And this, you know, this is also why if you go to a place that makes sandwiches, this used to happen at this tackery I used to go to, because I love Mexican sandwiches, tortas, and they're one of my favorite sandwiches. Anyway, they would nuke their bread to reheat the bread, and every once in a while they'd overnuke it, and you get those little interior pockets of hard stuff in the bread, Stasi. You know what I'm talking about? Yeah, gross, right?
+
+[8:44] Anyway, uh so these are all microwave dehydration things. But there's this blog, it's a vegan blog, and I forget the name of it. It's something like Jugalindo or something like that. You can find it by searching microwave potato chips. But uh, you know, they seem to have a nice blog, even though they're vegans, they seem to have a nice blog.
+
+[8:58] And um uh they have a technique for basically making potato chips. We'd a slice of potato chips and you put them in the microwave and you and you microwave them like 30, 40 seconds at a time, keep checking them to make sure that they haven't gone uh that they haven't turned too crisp and start turning brown, and they dehydrate into these potato chip-like things. They're not actually potato chips because they're not fried, and God only loves a fried potato chip because potato chips are something like like 30, 40 or even upwards uh percent oil, the oil they're fried in. And to me, I want my potato chip fried. If I I don't want a baked potato chip, I've never liked baked potato chips, I think they're an abomination.
+
+[9:34] But it's an interesting phenomenon, this uh dehydrated potato chip, and it actually works uh quite well. But if you under-dehydrate them, they're very, very chewy. So uh Sam, if you want to uh experiment, very long way of saying, if you want to experiment with um with making chewy potatoes, I would recommend something like the microwave or a dehydrator and just partially dehydrate them until they become chewy but not crunchy. And uh like everything else, you know, um you know, uh what what's his name? Uh Chris Onstad, the author of the cookbook, he didn't like uh chewy potatoes because they weren't what he expected.
+
+[10:09] But a lot of times, uh, you know, uh whether something is good or bad is just a matter of expectations. If you're expecting French fries and you get something chewy, well, that's awful. But if you want something chewy and you like the flavor of a potato, then there's nothing wrong with making chewy potatoes, right, Stas? Right, yeah, it's good, right? Yeah, okay.
+
+[10:25] Uh oh, another note on microwaves. Uh microwaves, uh, we talked about last time because uh one of our listeners is going to college and basically can only have a microwave. Well, uh and I told her, uh Stasy said that I was a jerk for suggesting this, but I told her to go out and get a cutting stone made of uh silicon carbide, throw it in the microwave, and get it super hot uh to use as a searing plate. Uh well, the good news is I tested this and it works fantastically. So go ahead and make your super high heat searing plates using silicon carbide cutting stones.
+
+[10:52] Anyway, uh I think we have a caller. Uh caller, are you there or you're on the air? Uh this is Don. Hey Don. Hey, how's it going?
+
+[11:01] I'm good with it. I was just asking, I was wondering if you heard about this uh bacon vodka. It's been out a little bit, but I guess it's uh starting to gain ground. Who's making it? It's uh it's spelled B-A-K-O-N, and it's uh bacon infused vodka.
+
+[11:16] Oh, infused. Yep. And I've had it in the Bloody Mary and it's terrific, but was wondering if you had any other ideas or recommendations of using it and something else. Well, I have I have not I have not tried it. Uh I've had many bacon infused uh liquors uh specifically whiskies that they make here.
+
+[11:35] Are you in New York or no? Nope, nope. I'm actually down in Merrida, Georgia. Hey, how you doing? Uh so great.
+
+[11:41] The um so in here in the city, there's was a number of bars doing uh uh bacon infused uh liquor, and they do it with a technique called fat washing. And in fat washing, you mix the bacon fat, preferably a real smoky bacon fat, like uh like Alan Benton's out of uh Tennessee makes a really fantastic smoky bacon and uh you know you use the fat from that. Is that's what they used, and you mix the fat up with the liquor and then you uh chill it and let it solidify. You take the fat off the top and you have bacon infused uh uh liquor. It's it's fantastic.
+
+[12:11] I've never tried it with vodka, so I'm not sure exactly what I would uh what I would what I would use it for. I'll say this though. Um that Lance, a guy named Lance, who's the master distiller over at Hangar One, was making a series of meat and other interesting uh vodkas that were distilled where he distilled them rat rather than infuse them. And he kept on having a problem with the bacon flavor getting rancid as he was distilling it, and he couldn't really do a good distilled one. At least he hadn't the last time I spoke to him, which I don't know, Nastash was that like a year ago or something like that?
+
+[12:38] No, like nine months, yeah. Yeah. Uh so it yeah it makes sense that it's an infusion. It probably would be good in in a bloody merry. I I'm sad to say I've not done too much experimenting with meat li liqueurs myself, with the exception of I did a beef and tomato uh distillate once that I thought was it uh it wasn't delicious in the sense of would I go out and order that instead of a beer?
+
+[13:00] No. You know what I mean? But uh it was it was good in the context that we were serving it as a small short shot next to a bunch of grilled uh uh tuna uh sinews, so it was so it was it was good. But this is definitely something that if you like doing this sort of thing, you could definitely try to do yourself. Just save up your uh bacon fat or any other uh fat uh that has a lot of flavor uh and then you know, melt it, stir it in with your liquor and then let it uh you know, put it in the freezer, let the fat come up to the top and solidify it.
+
+[13:28] You could probably make your own. Um and really play around with it. Yep. All right, uh I'm sorry I couldn't give you any more recipe ideas. I just I hadn't thought about it much.
+
+[13:37] Is that partially answer your question? No, no, yeah, I mean I tried doing the uh just the bacon martini and that uh of course fell kind of flat, kinda like you were saying, drinking the uh the meat flavored one with the tomato all by itself kind of didn't, you know please the palate. That's kind of what I experienced. Did you put any salt in? You know I didn't.
+
+[13:59] That's a good idea. That might cut back some of that that weird flavor. Yeah, I would put a little salt in because uh, you know, any time you have uh something that started out either with salt or sugar in it, and then that stuff all of a sudden goes away, you kind of miss it. I mean, think about when you eat just bacon fat by itself, it kind of tastes a little bit uh a little bit flat, a little fabby fla uh flabby rather, but not in a fat sense, but you know what I mean, in a taste sense. Right.
+
+[14:23] So if you if you throw a couple pinches of salt in that, and maybe even like a little hit of sugar, even though it's supposed to be a martini and not have a lot of sugar into it, I think you're gonna brighten up that flavor quite a bit. You might bring it back to kind of where you want it. All right. Well, that was very helpful. So I'll give the give that a whirl.
+
+[14:38] All right, thanks for calling in. You got it. Thank you. All right, bye bye. Um, we have another caller?
+
+[14:44] Mm-hmm. All right, hi, caller, you're on the air. Hi, Dave, it's Julio, Priscilla Morgan's friend. Hey, good to talk to you. Thanks for calling in.
+
+[14:53] Doing well, dude. Sure, sure. I finally got your number. I was at the restaurant this weekend and picked up one of the cards. Oh, nice, nice.
+
+[14:59] Oh, uh talking about the French culinary restaurant, I assume, a great restaurant. You talking about the French culinary restaurant? No, no, no. Roberta's uh Roberta's, yeah. Oh, Roberta's, okay.
+
+[15:09] So there's two things, by the way, uh just for a second. Like I work at the French Culinary Institute. We have a great restaurant like Hull, which is like one of the best deals in Manhattan, and then I do the radio show here out of Roberta's in Brooklyn, which is a fantastic restaurant, does a lot of really great work, grows a lot of their own product, uses really high quality meats, including the meats from uh Heritage Foods, etc. etc. So we're talking about Roberta's restaurant.
+
+[15:28] You had a good meal, I assume? Fantastic. I I actually went went in early in the day and went back late that night. Oh, nice, nice. Double double hit double hitting.
+
+[15:37] Great. Double hitting, double hitting. But I thought of you and I thought, you know, I I I may not be calling the right person, but I've been on a diet for about six months, and I'm trying to figure out what desserts I can have that have no sugar. No su are you on a mean uh is this a not a calorie diet? This is uh a diet that you you can't have sugar, or is it just a calorie issue?
+
+[15:59] Calorie issue. Okay. Uh well, first of all, you know, uh he he is uh not a uh large man. He does not really need to diet, so you know you shouldn't worry about it so much. That's the first thing.
+
+[16:09] And uh the the the second thing is um sugar doesn't actually have uh that many that many calories. It's not normally going to be the sh depends on what you're eating, but a lot of times it's the the fat and other things in in the item that are gonna basically bulk up the the caloric content of it. You could do a lot of reduced uh again, nutrition, not my necessarily my specialty. I'm more of a taste and a and a tech guy. But you can you can focus on um obviously fruit-based uh desserts have a lot of bulk and s some fruits have quite a bit of sugar, but some don't, and just a little bit of sugar uh, you know, brightens them up.
+
+[16:42] Things things like uh berries. You know, we've done a lot of stuff that's fairly low in calorie and high in flavor, um, but they use a lot of technology. Like we made something that looks and eats um like uh pumpkin pie, but it's basically peach puree, you but you know, that's like not really achievable in a normal kind of restaurant. It requires liquid nitrogen and a whole bunch of other uh, you know, and a centrifuge and a whole bunch of other uh fan fancy stuff, but I mean, especially now at this time of year, you know, if you're gonna focus on I would focus on things that are satisfying but contain a lot of air with a with a little bit of uh sugar and and fat. For instance, whipped cream is not that bad for you because it's primarily air.
+
+[17:18] Do you know what I mean? Right. So if you're if you're doing if if you're like a uh um the kind of person who would go for a bowl of fruit and uh and cream, you know, if you use like a really nice whipped cream, you can get a real luxurious feel and it's still not gonna be uh that bad on the calories. So you see, I always focus on eating smaller quantities of stuff that's truly delicious rather than um you know not being satisfied eating an even larger quantity of things that just don't taste as good. You know what I mean?
+
+[17:44] Uh and you know, I walked past a box of meringues the other day, and I thought maybe Dave has an answer how to make fat-free meringues. Oh, well, meringues are often I mean, uh, real meringue is often fat, you know, fat-free if it's made with sugar, sorry, sugar, yeah. Sorry. Um, yeah, it's tough. I mean, but meringues, I mean you feel them, they're so light, there's not actually that that much sugar.
+
+[18:07] Think about it. So if you cook, right, you're taking let's say you take uh a dozen egg whites and you whip them in in your kitchen aid and you put maybe a cup of sugar in, right? Now you filled your entire kitchen aid bowl with uh you know, with meringue, and the whole thing only contains uh a cup of sugar, which doesn't have that many that many calories. So on on a pound per pound basis, meringue is extremely high in sugar. But uh on a volume basis, and and a lot of times we tend to eat based on the volume of how something looks, it doesn't actually have that much in it.
+
+[18:36] Now the sugar is there uh not just as a sweetener, as a structural component. You can move to things that have the bulking capabilities of sugar, but without the calories, but then you're moving into kind of um what's the word I'm looking for? Fake sweeteners. You know what I mean? And so you can you can do that.
+
+[18:55] So if you want, I mean, like I I tend not to focus on those kinds of problems because like you know, we're where I use a lot of ingredients that uh people some people are horrified by things like Xanthan gum, carrageen and gum, uh methyl cells, things like this, right? But they my my whole shtick is that I use them uh to try and make food taste better or be better, not to get around um not to get around nutritional or economic problems. And so the the upshot of that is is I very rarely get to focus on problems that are primarily related to nutrition or to um or to things like calorie counting because it goes counter to my mandate at the French culinary which is to focus on uh on quality first and foremost. Um you know but like like I said there are many there are many uh things that have the structural so what what typically what someone will do is uh and sometimes they do it for diabetics uh although there they use um basically uh sugars that have the same functional and sweetness as sugar but just don't have the uh they don't have you know problems with you with the insulin um but what they tend to do is they they add a bulking agent that has no calories and then they add a high intensity sweetener that has no calories so they have to use kind of a two part problem uh you know and there's people that have uh invented they invented this stuff called lites which I actually don't remember how it's made but it's a it's uh a sugar that uh has no sweetness and no calories but whips into a meringue just like sugar and I was experimenting with it to make savory marshmallows right but you could also use it in conjunction with a high intensity sweetener to make a meringue that had kind of zero zero calories other than the uh other than the egg white protein uh right right anyway I hope this is what honey be a solution putting honey in the no honey has like uh honey is uh just as many calories you know and and also the problem with honey is honey is very uh hydroscopic it pulls water in so it's very very hard to make confections with a hundred percent honey that uh that don't weep or or suck water out of out of the air which is what you know certain confections use honey and they need honey, like Tironi is a characteristically has a lot of honey in it. Uh but uh other confections, like when you add honey, like if you're making chocolate, you can't really use honey as a sweetener because it's going to pull water in and then ruin the chocolate.
+
+[21:12] I see, I see. But I will I will research this more, and the next time I see you, uh I will ha I will have some decent answers. Alright. I'll call you next week. All right, thanks.
+
+[21:21] Thanks for calling and we'll talk to you soon. All right, Dave. All right, bye bye. See you soon. Bye bye.
+
+[21:25] We have another caller side? All right, your caller, you're on the air. Hi. I um have been reading a lot lately about ethnic foods and the trending popularity of specific ethnic foods like Indian food growing in popularity, and I've had Indian food in restaurants and really liked it, but I've always been reluctant to prepare stuff like that at home. Right.
+
+[21:45] So I'm wondering if you have any advice or tips on specific Indian dishes that might be a good starter American dish to prepare. Okay, so you've never uh you're what kind of Indian dishes do you like? Um I mean, pretty much every Indian dish that I've ever tried, I've enjoyed. I like stuff like butter chicken or um dolls, things like that. Right.
+
+[22:10] Okay, so I would I would uh shy away from any of the dishes that for their completion require specific uh pieces of equipment. So for instance, certain Indian dishes require the use of a special oven called a tandoor that's basically shaped like a vase and and uh very high heat. And so things like non, things like uh 10, you know, like tip like typical like tandoori chicken or chicken tika masala, things like that, to really get the flavor as as you just how you would want it in a restaurant requires a uh a tandoor, right? Not that you can't imitate those at home, but you know, it to really if you really want to be satisfied and make it 100%, those are gonna be difficult. So I would I would not do those first.
+
+[22:49] Secondly, I would go get uh a good Indian cookbook if you don't if you don't have one, because the the best way to to first is to eat some like you've done, but then to really immerse yourself in how a specific cooking system works. So if you grow up like I did, basically, you know, where in the house the go-to was some Americanized form of kind of basic Mediterranean Italian style cooking, right? Which that's my upbringing, is you you you know what to do when you put a pan on, you know you're gonna put in some oil, some onions are gonna go in there, you're gonna saute them, and then at the end you're gonna put in your garlic, whatever else. You know, you just you know how it flows, right? So what you need to do is read a couple cookbooks, Indian cookbooks, that just get a feeling for the flow of how Indian cooking works.
+
+[23:29] So you're gonna start here similarly with like you know, with uh probably ghee, which is the melted butter, and then you know, things like uh uh onions and then you know, maybe uh, you know, ginger or whatever spicy things, then you're gonna probably saute your spices because that's a characteristic part of uh the Indian cooking is to saute the spices, bring out the aroma, and then start adding your other things, right? So like I would read a couple cookbooks, a good one, it's vegetarian, but um Lord Krishna's cuisine, I forget, was the one that I bought a number of years ago. I'm sure it's been surpassed, I'm sure it's dated. But I would get like a like a fairly authoritative Indian cookbook, one that has enough recipes for you to try, but focus on ones that are more about the mentality of Indian cooking. Because I think that what you really want to do is immerse yourself in the mentality.
+
+[24:12] Uh and and you know, I I I do a lot of uh curries, um they're also really good when vegetarian friends come over because there's so many good Indian vegetarian dishes out there. You know, it's one of it's one of the cuisines that is based on uh on vegetarian dishes. And so, you know, and and actually, if you ever uh you know, again, I'm not you know supporting being a vegan, but if you have a vegan friends come over, a lot of times uh, you know, if you substitute, if you use dishes, like for instance, there's a dish that I really love to make called uh Navratan curry, right? And I do my own version of it, it's Americanized, but basically it's a sauce uh where you start by uh sauteing uh onions and then you put your spices like um it's got coriander it's got cumin it's got uh it's got uh ginger it's got some uh hot pepper in it uh regular pepper you know a host of other things but then you also saute cashew nuts in it and then uh you after you do that you add some tomato paste coconut milk pineapple you blend the whole McGill and then you can toss it with any kind of steamed vegetable you want and it's delicious. N Navratan curry it's delicious delicious curry uh and if you if you use the coconut milk and you use olive oil to saute instead of butter you have a vegan dish and so you can if you have a vegan coming over and you know it's a really good way to make it uh and have um have something that's vegan that you also like um another uh another you know trick with Indian uh food is really sourcing the ingredients I think you know I'd really focus on sourcing some ingredients that are uh high quality um and that you know allow you to achieve the authentic taste so when you're getting a rice you're gonna want to get you know uh one of the the actual rices that they would use in a particular particular dish I mean often you're gonna use a basmati or something like that um and you know do it with a little with uh you know throw some some spices in when you when you make it but again uh the key to anything is to first taste what you've done and so you know whether you've hit the target or not right I mean I've never been to India proper.
+
+[26:09] It's one of the places on earth I'm really dying dying to go. Uh I've never been but first you know I I know what American Indian food tastes like. It's and I know what London Indian food tastes like, but I don't know what Indian Indian food tastes like. But anyway, so you have a target, and that's good. Now figure out the the the fundamentals of of you know what it's like for someone to step into a kitchen in India, uh what they're thinking, what is going to go in the pot.
+
+[26:30] And then the recipe itself isn't so important. It's more understanding the flow of how they cook and how they're going to be doing it. Does that answer your question, I hope? Yes, it does, actually. And with um respect to something you said about the different flavors and the spice mixtures and things that go into Indian, from what I understand, there are many different recipes that can make up a garamasala, for example, or like a curry powder.
+
+[26:53] So just looking at the shelf, you know, in the grocery store, it appears that there's a a bunch of different products that you can buy that kind of would help along that way. So I'm excited to start trying some of those. Right. And you know, but it's funny, you know, you try a bunch of different ones, they're all very different. Eventually, if you really get into it, you're gonna want to make your own spice mixtures because they're just gonna be a lot fresher and you can tailor them to your to your exact needs.
+
+[27:14] Think about it this way. It's you know it's i in the US, we think about um, you know, we we're amazed at the kind of variation in something like a garamasa, things like that. But you know, but if you go to North Carolina, right, the difference of like 20 miles in North Carolina is enough to uh cause a fist fight over what you're gonna put in your uh barbecue sauce. Okay. You know what I mean?
+
+[27:36] And so, you know, you when you think about it that way, and you then you go to India with which is huge and has so many people in it, you know, it's it's it's an extremely, extremely varied and interesting cuisine. You could spend a whole lifetime doing nothing but Indian food and it would it would repay your efforts. You know what I mean? It's like a huge it's a huge and interesting uh journey that you're embarking on. So really regional.
+
+[27:59] Yeah, oh yeah, oh yeah, very much so, very much. And and again, I only know the the the surface of it just because I haven't had a chance to travel over there yet. But uh I wish you well, uh, and I'm sure you're gonna have a lot of fun. Thanks so much. I appreciate your advice.
+
+[28:12] Thank you. Okay. So uh uh I have another email question coming in. Uh, we're taking a break. Okay, we'll take a break and we'll come back with uh more questions on cooking issues radio.
+
+[28:23] Oh, how you feel, brother? Feeling good. You feel good? Thanks so much, Bone Brother. How you feel, mate?
+
+[28:30] I'm feeling all right. I don't want all people to know you're in here. How you feel, fella? Hey Jam! Sure getting down.
+
+[28:40] Look at him! We're gonna have a bunk good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time.
+
+[28:57] Let's take them up, Brad. We gotta take you high. All right. You wanna do it again? Yeah, let's go on.
+
+[29:12] We gotta take you high. Brother. Yeah. Now I won't have a body. Let's bread blow about two cores.
+
+[29:27] And then I wanna wave in. Let's go and fill that within it. Now, all right. I'm gonna get that belly with a little horn over there. Brad, get it take us higher.
+
+[29:38] Yeah. Take us higher. Brad. Brad! Hello and welcome back to Cooking Issues.
+
+[29:55] I'm Dave Arnold here with Nastasha Lopez, the hammer. And we're here to answer your cooking questions for a couple more minutes at 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. So uh Jesse uh emailed in and asked, Do you guys have any advice on slicing mint without turning it black? As soft as I try, it still ends up turning black.
+
+[30:17] Interesting question, Jesse. So what's happening in mint or basil or anything like this is that uh as you're cutting it, you're breaking the cells. As you break the cells, the uh the enzymes, the cells rupture, and the enzymes within the cells can mix with certain compounds inside of uh of the mint uh and they form brown, uh brown colors. And there's very little uh you can do to prevent that, uh with the exception of it's not how soft you cut the uh it's not how soft you cut the mint that's going to uh cause it. It's how sharp your knife is.
+
+[30:51] So if you use an extremely sharp knife, right, you're gonna rupture as few cells as possible. You want to use a very thin, very sharp knife. Um if you and slice it, and you're gonna get the minimum amount of uh blackening of the cells, right? Um if you even if you cut softly with a dull knife, you're just mashing it, right? You also don't want to just whack it around on the board.
+
+[31:13] You know, that's why people they roll their their leaves up and then they slice uh not just gently, but you know, v with very sharp knife. Uh another technique you can use is you can blanch the mint briefly in uh boiling water. And what that's gonna do is just kill the enzymes. Uh Harold McGee, the author of On Food and Cooking, had a second book uh called The Curious Cook. Unfortunately, it's not in print anymore.
+
+[31:35] You can get it on Bookfinder. Um but The Curious Cook has a uh a long chapter basically on pesto where he deals with just this kind of problem how to make a pesto, which is the same problem as mint. It's basil, but they're in the same family, it has the same problem. Uh how to keep it bright in a in a in a pesto. And it's really interesting uh an interesting chapter to read because it it really shows what we do in general here uh in in cooking the way we approach it, which is to break it down into a series of variables and then try to figure out what's going on with each one of the variables.
+
+[32:06] And the the entire book, The Curious Cook is about that. It's really uh it's a shame it's not in print right now because it's a very good combat companion piece to on food and cooking. Whereas on food and cooking is more of an encyclopedic reference with uh some lore about you know cooking. The Curious Cook is more how to become like Harold McGee, right? Uh how to think like he does, like uh, or you know, for that matter, it's a similar way to think how we do when we're cooking, which is to break break things into a series of variables and try to understand what's going on.
+
+[32:36] So if you can get a copy of the Curious Cook and and read it, it would be use it's useful for everyone in a way of figuring out uh a method of thinking. So uh blanching the the mint has the problem that you um you know you you change the flavor, it's no longer fresh. You could cut it under alcohol, and that's gonna not, but it's in alcohol then. I mean, that's what I would do. Cut it under alcohol.
+
+[32:58] But uh it's uh it's uh, you know, that's usually only useful in alcoholic beverages. So it's it's a difficult problem. Um McGee experimented with using things like ascorbic acid, and that doesn't really uh or scorpic acid is an antioxidant, stops many things from turning brown. He didn't get it to have that much of an effect in basil, probably because it didn't get to where it needed to go fast enough before the browning happened. I bet if he vacuum-infused ascorbic acid into the mint leaves, he would have been able to get a decent result, but alas, he did not have a uh vacuum machine or even an ISI whipper to check check it out when he was writing the book, but that might be uh another another way to go.
+
+[33:33] But if you're not, if it doesn't matter that it's not hyper hyper fresh, uh quick blanch will help. Otherwise, just use an extremely sharp knife and be ginger about it. I'm sorry I didn't have any sort of magic bullet for you, Jesse, but that's uh, you know, you chose a uh a tough problem. So uh okay, so on to a separate and weird phenomenon, um an interesting one, I think. It's called the impembe effect.
+
+[33:58] Impemba impemba. What do you think? Impemba? Mm-mm. Mpemba effect.
+
+[34:03] Uh and uh what that is is um and it's just interesting because it just shows how you can be wrong in so many ways. Um it's been known for a long time that if you take and you heat water up uh versus water that's cold and you put them in the freezer, that it's possible for the hot water to freeze first, right? That seems counterintuitive, yes, that's right. Right. In fact, it seems so counterintuitive that you know you would say things like, Well, that's absurd or ridiculous or impossible, or that someone who says that must have uh a cog loose, right?
+
+[34:33] Because on a simple on a simple level, you know, physics, you think, well, look, the hot water, when you put it in the freezer, has to chill down to zero, right, before it it freezes, and the cold water starts closer to zero, so it's gonna get there first, it's gonna freeze first, right? It just seems physically impossible that anything else else would happen, and yet it does. Uh and and it just goes to show that this this simple thing, it seems impossible but is true, was observed by a schoolboy in uh uh what country was he in? He was some it was a country in Africa in the 60s, and he observed this phenomenon as a child and was laughed out of the school, and then later, you know, kept on basically saying, Look, it's true, and turns out he's right, and now they've named the effect after him. His name was Mr.
+
+[35:16] Mpemba, right? Mm-hmm. Anyway, so uh anywho, so the the thing is is that how can this possibly be true? And it took decades, decades for scientists to actually figure out what the heck was going on in in this in in this situation. And the new scientists back in March of this year published uh or talked uh referenced a paper uh that was written, a 30-page paper written by um uh a guy that had spent 10 years researching this problem, and he thinks he's you know finally come up with the answer, and the answer is this, and it leads to an interesting phenomenon the phenomenon of supercooling.
+
+[35:52] So supercooling a liquid means that you cool it down below its freezing point before it starts to freeze. And the reason this happens is because ice, in order to form, it needs to have a uh a nucleation site for a crystal to start. It's very hard for crystals to start forming in water to become ice. So they need these things called nucleation sites. So when you super cool something, you supercool it down to a point where the ice can nucleate and then bam, the whole thing rises back up in temperature to freezing and starts freezing uh starts freezing up.
+
+[36:19] That's how ice forming works. So it turns out that by heating uh a sample, you actually alter the nucleation sites such that they can't super cool as much before they freeze up. So in fact, the mass of ice does freeze uh faster if it's been can freeze faster if it's uh been been heated. But it led me to think then of the concept of supercooling, right? So there's supercooling and there's superheating.
+
+[36:44] Water is pretty interesting. If you you need to supercool it below zero degrees to get it to start freezing up, right? You can also superheat it uh above a hundred degrees uh because it the same way it's very hard for ice crystals to form, it's also hard for bubbles to form, right? So bubbles need a nucleation site. That's why if you have a super clean glassware, like hyper analytically clean glassware, like you use like uh chromic and sulfuric acid to melt all of the organic crap out of the inside of a glass, don't do that.
+
+[37:10] But if you did that, then you filled it with champagne, you get hard no bubbles because there's no place for the bubbles to form. So in superheating, what you do is you take something that has no nucleation sites, like you've boiled it once, right? You stick it in a microwave, which heats it all uh without a lot of convection currents because it's heating it around instead of heating it from the bottom, and then you pull it out, it's well above a hundred degrees, you throw sugar in it, and it instantly boils and sp splashes boiling water in your face, and you get horribly scalded and have to go to the hospital. It's a known phenomenon. Anyway, back to microwaves, right?
+
+[37:38] Anyway, so supercooling can also be used, right? Uh and so there's a uh chef, Seiji Yamamoto in uh Japan, who has uh uh an apparatus to do supercooling, uses extremely clean glassware, I guess, and he puts water or water-based liquids in and he chills them well below zero, and then as you agitate them, right? You just boom, you agitate them, you create little bubbles. Those little bubbles become nucleation sites, and ice starts to form. So he has these really cool demos, and I believe it's on YouTube, where uh you take supercooled liquid and he pours it, and as he pours it, it turns to ice, forms a slushy, which is pretty cool.
+
+[38:10] Um and uh just the impemba effect got me thinking about all this. Uh unfortunately, it's not possible to freeze an entire block of ice solid. In order to freeze an entire block uh uh like a thing of water solid using supercooling, you would have to supercool it down to negative eighty Celsius, and that's just not possible. You can't get really um you know you're probably at best only gonna get a couple, 10, 10, 20, twelve twenty best degrees, not even below zero uh Celsius before it starts to nucleate. So you can but you can freeze something like a quarter, a third, not probably not a third, probably a quarter of the water in into slush, which is pretty cool.
+
+[38:45] But my favorite way to do this is actually a multiple effect is uh when you put soda in a freezer and you pull it out just before she freezes, and then you uncap it, and then it all of a sudden turns to ice, right? Uh and the and I like that because I like super cold, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah. Anyway, the reason this happens is twofold. One, uh carbon dioxide is uh dissolved in the liquid, and that actually lowers the temperature at which it wants to freeze, right? It's a freezing point um depression.
+
+[39:11] When you uncap it, all of a sudden carbon dioxide leaves, there's less carbon dioxide, the freezing point's less depressed. So now all of a sudden the liquid's more super cool than it was before. Secondly, those little bubbles provide nucleation sites, a crap load of them, like all at once. I almost cursed on air, I apologize. It forms a crap load of these bubbles all at once.
+
+[39:29] And uh so the entire thing basically just turns to a mass of uh flaky ice crystals. So I'm still trying to figure out a good uh way to use this in uh in the in the kitchen. You got anything, Nastasha? You think that there's any kind of use for that? I don't know, Dave, no.
+
+[39:43] No. She's probably right, which brings me kind of she's you know, and stash is always right about we not really always right about these things because there's many things like I say negative. Just negative, right? Like she, you know, you in case you meet her, right? You know, like I say, she there's many things she doesn't like for no apparent reason, like French fries or you know, for some reason she doesn't like french fries, doesn't like potato chips except salt and vinegar, which is bizarre, bizarre, bizarre.
+
+[40:05] So you can't really trust her on these things, but in this case I think she's right. Uh just because uh although supercooling is really, really cool, I mean, well, sorry, nifty, right? Uh super cooling is really nifty, it's probably gonna end up being uh just uh a gimmick. And on the topic of just a gimmick, uh, I'll mention one last thing before we leave. And uh this is a cool gimmick.
+
+[40:27] If any of you out there have liquid nitrogen and a vacuum machine, um, which you know, you should have both, frankly, you know what I mean. Uh and this was told me by Johnny Asini Patriot Chev at John George, who in turn learned it from Chris Young, who's working with Nathan Mirvold on the miracle book that's coming out at the end of the year. Um, if you stick liquid nitrogen into a vacuum machine and then you close the vacuum machine and let it run for several minutes, all of a sudden ice starts f forming on the top of the liquid nitrogen. Okay. Then as soon as you release it, the the vacuum, the ice goes away.
+
+[40:59] So you can never touch or get to the ice, right? Ever. Uh, and uh, and so Johnny was like was wondering about this, and I did a bunch of research and uh what's happening, and it looks really cool. It's like this like frosty snow ice forming on the top of the liquid nitrogen. What you're actually doing is forming uh nitrogen ice.
+
+[41:16] And it turns out that liquid nitrogen, which you know clocks in around minus 200 Celsius in that range, minus 190 something Celsius uh at atmospheric pressure. Um, solid nitrogen isn't that much colder than liquid nitrogen, right? And so what happens is is you put the um liquid nitrogen, you let the container come up to or come down to temperature, so you're not boiling for that reason too much, put it in the vacuum machine and you suck a vacuum on it, what you're doing is uh evaporating a crap load of nitrogen off the top of the uh vessel, and you're actually evaporatively cooling the liquid nitrogen down that extra couple of degrees Celsius and forming solid nitrogen snow on the top of your and it looks really cool and it's really you know, whatever. Anyway, uh so you're f and you can YouTube it if you if you want to see it. But you're forming solid nitrogen snow, but yet you can never touch it.
+
+[42:05] Another, another pain in the butt in kitchen technology. Anyway, so uh that was this week's cooking issues. Join us again next week at uh from 12 to 1245. And another shout out to Whole Foods' 30th birthday, not their 80th birthday. Happy birthday, Whole Foods.
+
+[42:24] Oh you did that. Got me on this corner. And I don't know where I'm at.
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+[0:14] Hello, you're listening to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network coming to you live every Tuesday from 12 to 1245. Cooking issues the show where you call in with your cooking issues, and we hope to uh solve them. Call in your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. Uh, this week's Cooking Issues is brought to you by the Barter House.
+
+[0:38] The Barter House is a proud supporter of the Heritage Radio Network. The Butterhouse works with family vineyards and small bottlers from around the world to bring only the finest and most flavorful wines to market. To learn more about Butterhouse, please visit them on the web at www.thebarterhouse.com or call them at 917-463-3076. That's 917-463-3076. That's not our number.
+
+[1:01] That's the Barter House's number. And today we're actually sampling one of their uh one of their wines. Uh this wine is from uh from Uruguay. Yeah. And it's a mixture of uh uh what's it a mixture of?
+
+[1:15] It's Tembernillo and Tanat, uh, or I don't know, it's pronounced Tanat. I think it's Tanat with a T. Anyway, T-A-N-N-A-T. We'll get to that in a minute. But the name of the wine, I swear to God, the name of the wine is Boozer.
+
+[1:27] Boozer! Like it's the best name for a wine ever. I could see a cult following building around a wine called Booza. I mean, it's just genius. I I have never actually, I don't think had a wine from uh uh Uruguay before, but it's quite nice.
+
+[1:41] It is and um and this Tanat's a very interesting variety because uh several years ago a uh scientist out of uh England um did a study trying to figure out what it is about red wines that actually makes them uh healthy uh from a cardiovascular standpoint, right? And uh he settled on the on this class of chemicals called procyanidins that are in red wine, and he did a bunch of uh studies where he basically studied the um the cardiovascular health of different people in different regions and discovered that people that drank a lot of wines uh that were high in uh procyanidins basically got less heart disease. It's his findings, right? And it turns out that the wine with the most, the variety with the most procyanidins in it is is to not. Uh and so uh I tend to believe that all health and food stuff is horse hockey and will eventually be proven wrong.
+
+[2:31] But if you believe that sort of thing, uh that uh you know that you're gonna get super healthy from drinking a lot of red wine, uh then I mean um obviously there are some cardiovascular benefits to drinking uh moderate amounts of alcohol, but anyway, whether or not his particular analysis is correct, uh to not as made a splash over the past couple of years as perhaps being an extraordinarily cardiovascular health uh cardiovascularly healthy wine. But I think it's quite enjoyable. What do you think? Yeah, it's really good. I like it.
+
+[3:00] Yeah. Anyway. The Barter House and Booza. I love it. I can't I can't get enough of it.
+
+[3:05] I really can't. I might I don't know how much this costs, but I might uh I might actually buy it just so I can. You know, I I tend to refer to all liquor as booze. Yeah. And my wife, Jen, she hates it.
+
+[3:14] She's like, it sounds so coarse. She doesn't sound like that at all, by the way. It sounds so coarse. You call it booze. I'm like, I can't help it.
+
+[3:21] Anyway, booze. We have a collar. We should try to call it. We have a caller? All right.
+
+[3:24] Uh let's take our caller. Hello, caller, you're on the air. Hey Dave, it's Julio. Hey, hey, Julio, oh my god, I feel terrible. I meant to uh do the research this morning and I got all tied up.
+
+[3:36] Um you didn't do your homework? I'm a b I'm a I I feel it's it's interesting that I didn't do my homework because I actually am going back to class later today. I'm retaking organic chemistry at NYU uh just to brush up, and so I this is a prefigurement of what it's like to not do your homework and to be caught red-handed not doing your homework. But uh you know, I was trying to think more about it. Specifically, you were you were interested in uh uh meringues that uh have uh a lower sugar content, correct?
+
+[4:09] Right. Now, do you want to be able to make them at home or do you just want to be able to purchase them? Well, you know, I have a sweet tooth, so I appreciate anything sweet that I can make at home that I don't gain weight on. Hmm. Well, remember what I said before, the good thing about meringues is they're actually uh very, very large percentage error.
+
+[4:29] So they're actually not that caloric on a volume basis. And so they're they're they're actually very, very good snacks to have around if you have an intense sweet tooth, but you want to eat you want to eat something that's gonna satisfy that sweet tooth, but you don't want to get a lot of calories because they provide a lot of sweet sensation for the amount of calories they had. Uh I remember I said last week, and this is what I was going to investigate more, is seeing whether or not we could do a high intensity sweetener mixed with uh high intensity sweetener mixed with um uh like a bulking agent, like uh, you know, like a non-nutritive uh sweetener that has the properties of sugar that you want in a meringue. I'm hesitant to do it though, just because it goes against kind of what I what I spend my time thinking about, which is uh, you know, tr trying to always increase things from a quality standpoint, not necessarily to try and get around um different issues. But but but this time, I swear Nastasha, the hammer is usually the hammer for other people.
+
+[5:30] But Nastasha, you're gonna force me early in the week rather than wait until the last minute. And even if you even if you don't have a chance to uh cause actually I won't be we won't be here live next week because uh I'd be teaching uh low temperature sous vide cooking at the school. But I I on a stack of Bibles promise to to get this information and and either the next time we go live if you call in or else uh I will I will get this information to you somehow. I promise. Here's your penalty for not doing the homework.
+
+[6:03] Uh oh. What's a good what's a good recipe for kale? I c I you know I live near the farmer's market on Union Square and there's beautiful kale out now. Right. Uh I always like I say, I always I've had kale raw in raw food places and and uh I don't really like it raw.
+
+[6:20] I I would recommend cooking it like you would like you would basically cook any green, which is just you know, I I actually t like kale when it's kind of overcooked. I always uh chop it. Um I don't bother removing the large uh uh I remove just the end of the stem, but I don't take the whole vein out. But I know some people that take the vein out of the center of the kale and then chop it. I'll usually saute uh I would usually saute um uh onion and then at the last minute throw in uh the garlic and then throw in the kale, which will provide provide its own moisture as it cooks down, and then you can decide whether you want to add any uh sweetener.
+
+[6:57] Uh definitely hit some acid after it's done cooking down. I would add a little acid at the end to brighten it up and you know make sure you add enough salt. What do you think, Nastasha? You cook greens like that, right? How do you do it?
+
+[7:07] Uh with oil and garlic and salt and cook it down. Like I just said. Yeah, yeah. Good for paying attention to the channel. Yeah, I remember once in Italy having something very similar to kale and then prepared it with pine nuts and raisins.
+
+[7:19] Does that sound familiar? Not not necessarily familiar, but it sounds delicious. I mean, uh, you know, I like any kind of cooked green, although you you'll be upset with typically when I do it, I cook uh a lot of meat into it as well and mix beans. I mean, I grew up eating uh basically every week my mom would make uh an escarole dish where she would take esquerol and we would uh we would do the onions and then the garlic and then uh and then basically uh uh uh hot sausage and uh bacon and cook it down and then we would then we would add the escarole, which is a really good bitter green, and that would counteract with the you know with the bacon and then we would add some acidity. I would usually add it in the form of mustard, although you could use vinegar or lemon, and then uh we would finish it off actually with beans, with uh, you know, with white beans, because it's super hardy, greens and beans and bacon.
+
+[8:06] I mean, you can't really go wrong. Uh you know, as soon as the fact as soon as the weather starts getting a little bit colder, I'm gonna go ahead and and uh go make that because that's you know childhood childhood memories. Right, right. Comfort, comfort. Yeah.
+
+[8:19] All right. Well, thanks. All right, well, thanks for calling in. I will get the answer. Okay.
+
+[8:23] I'll call you not next week, but the the following week. And good luck at the your class next week. Thank you so much. All right, thanks, Dave. All right, bye.
+
+[8:31] Uh all right. Let's take our first email question then. Uh, because uh I I believe well, we're still drinking the booze. We'll we'll let you know whether or not our heart feels any better when we're done finishing the booze, whether the procyanidins in the tanat are actually helping us or not. Um But uh we have a question from Gabe in New York City.
+
+[8:51] Any advice for making chocolate at home? Well, Gabe, you asked the right people. Uh there is a website called Chocolate Alchemy.com, which caters to making chocolate at home. And basically what everyone uses is a small when you're making chocolate, one of the steps is the grinding of the chocolate, right? There's a bunch of different steps when you're making uh chocolate, assuming you already have beans, cocoa beans that are roasted.
+
+[9:17] So you want to break those down first do a grind, and then basically they get ground to a finer and finer dimension. The whole point of grinding down chocolate is so that you don't feel the uh graininess of the chocolate after it's ground. You want to get the particle size very, very small, down to like, you know, 20 uh 20 microns or so. And uh what what that does at the same time that you grind it, you're doing a couple things. One, you're reducing the particle size of both the chocolate and the sugar that you've added.
+
+[9:42] You're also uh making sure that the cocoa uh butter is totally covering all the particles so that it's nice and smooth and you don't have any cocoa particles that aren't coated with butter. Okay? Now uh that that said, basically, chocolate, you can't make chocolate just out of uh cocoa beans out of nibs, because uh chocolate, bar chocolate, has more cocoa butter in it, the fat from cocoa, than is in the whole beans. So you're gonna need to get a hold of some cocoa butter, right? Usually you get um the deodorized cocoa butter because uh most cocoa butter you get apparently I'm told wasn't good cocoa butter to begin with, so they have to deodorize it.
+
+[10:20] But anyway, that's what I use at the school. You get cocoa butter, you you and and you get cocoa nibs. Now there's two pieces of equipment you need. You need uh basically a champion uh juicer, right? Because champion juicer also makes things like peanut butter, and that's the way we use it when we're when we're doing chocolate.
+
+[10:36] So a champion juicer has a bunch of little teeth and it just grinds up the nibs. So you throw the nibs into the champion juicer, and just like you're juicing carrots or making peanut butter, it grinds it to a paste. And you keep grinding it with the champion until it warms up and kind of liquefies. It's a kinghell mess, but it's you know it's it doesn't take very long. And then you put uh melted cocoa butter and and the ground up chocolate that you have, along with sugar, usually a little bit of uh powdered uh lecithin, which is an emulsifier, a very small amount, like you know, uh I think less than half a percent or something like that, even less, and usually some vanilla.
+
+[11:10] You want to make sure that you don't use any uh you can't do use things like honey because it'll soak in water. Water is the enemy of chocolate, so you want to make sure there's no uh chocolate in it at all. I mean sorry, no uh water in it at all. So you you know, no honey, no um nothing with water, not vanilla extract. You want to use straight beans or even vanilla sugar if you have it, if you have it that you like.
+
+[11:31] And you want to put it in this machine uh called a uh Santha, which is basically a very small version of a chocolate, I don't know how you pronounce it, melanger, like a chocolate mixer. It's basically two little stone wheels that roll on a round stone surface and just grind chocolate. If you look up chocolate melanger, melanger, melanger, yeah, who knows. Anyway, you look at it's basically two rocks that rotate around on another rock, and and that over the course of a long time makes the particles finer and finer and finer and finer and finer, and eventually you get chocolate. Um now uh and I believe we might have a recipe for ketchup flavored chocolate on our website, but just you know what, don't start with that.
+
+[12:08] Start with regular chocolate, go to chocolate alchemy and look up look up some of their some of their things. Now, normally when you're making chocolate, you grind until the particle size is is right, and you also in you're also like flashing off volatiles in this. So you want to make sure that you are releasing just the amount of volatiles that that you like. Now, a chocolate maker can do this by running it in this uh in this breakdown machine Melange, whatever it's called, Santha, whatever. Uh it's this one by the way was not made for chocolate.
+
+[12:35] It was made for uh grinding up uh lentils. They're they're Indian um anyway. So that you grind it for a for a little while with the lid off and that's going to release volatiles and allow you to kind of get where you want uh and it's also going to let you flash off some extra water and then you're gonna want to cap it. And in order to get the texture right in other words very very smooth, you're gonna have to run it for two, three days. Now um uh that might affect the and I'm sure it will affect the flavor of your chocolate, but the guys at the school, our pastry department the school now does this as part of their demonstration for the pastry department and they've gotten some pretty good stuff that that tempers uh the tempers fairly well and it's a a lot of fun to play around with so you're you're looking at an initial investment roughly five hundred dollars for a Santa and a uh and a champion juicer but from there on in you could basically make whatever you want.
+
+[13:25] Now that there's it's also an interesting time for chocolate because there's a lot of companies that have started making some smaller batch chocolates around. So you know uh for many years now Jacques Therese has made you know the dean of our pastry studies has made his own chocolate first in um in Brooklyn in Dumbo and now uh at his larger facility in Manhattan. Um you have Mass Brothers makes chocolate in Brooklyn and there's a new company actually uh just starting out called Cacao Prieto that we visited Nastasha and I visited when was that? Friday Friday and uh they're you know associated with the Razor and shiny knife people uh here in Brooklyn and uh they're actually starting a new line. They bought the uh uh the remains of the Sharpenburger, the old Sharpenburger chocolate line, uh, and they're gonna be making some new chocolate.
+
+[14:09] What's interesting about what they're doing is that uh basically the name pre Prieto is uh the family name of the one of the the founders of the company, uh uh Dan Preston, and his family's done uh cacao plantation, sugar plantation for a long time uh in the Dominican Republic, and so they're actually gonna have complete vertical integration. They can play with breeding, selective breeding, they can play with um they can play with different fermentation techniques, um, you know, and they basically can control it from from soup to nuts, which is pretty interesting. It's very rare. And so they're gonna launch in January, so we'll see kind of what that complete control and vertical integration can bring. Because they're gonna bring uh they're gonna do, I think, mainly uh liqueurs and and chocolate, bar chocolate.
+
+[14:51] So we'll see how that uh pans out. But having visited their setup, it's a very, very good setup, and they're gonna be using some kind of new equipment um and custom built equipment. Uh Dan actually used to build some equipment for chocolate makers. In fact, he built some parts for the Mast Brothers line. Uh so anyway, so that should be that should be interesting.
+
+[15:08] Um but you know, back to selecting your beans, I mean the the main problem is uh uh you know, when you're making your own chocolate, is uh crap in crap out. You know what I mean? And so you you need to get a hold of some good quality nibs to do your work. And um the the final product that you make in chocolate is very dependent and finicky, depending on every little aspect of what you do can uh can affect it. So it's it's uh a field well worth uh investigation and study, and uh Gabe, I wish you luck in your uh exploits.
+
+[15:40] Anyway, with that, I think we go to our first commercial break. Please remember to call in your questions at 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues. How you feel, man? I feel all right.
+
+[15:56] I don't want no people to know you're in here. How you feel, fella? Hey Dam! Sure getting down. Look in.
+
+[16:06] We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. Take them up, Brad.
+
+[16:23] We gotta take you high. Alright. You wanna do it again? Yeah, let's go on back. We gotta take you high.
+
+[16:45] Brother. Yeah. Now I won't have a body. Let's bread blow about two corpses. Let's go and do that within it.
+
+[16:53] Now alright. I'm gonna get that belly with a little horn over there. Brad, get it take us higher. Yeah. Take us higher.
+
+[17:04] Brad! Welcome back to Cooking Issues. Call in your cooking questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. Uh coming to you live for another, I don't know, what, half hour or so?
+
+[17:30] Um all right, let's go to some email questions. So, Brian uh writes in from New Zealand uh and says he just made a batch of lemon cello and added his sugar syrup to the infused alcohol cold so it stayed clear. Uh, uh and then it you and then basically let me go into this and this here's the question. Uh the question is when you make limoncello, lemoncello is basically you soak uh lemon uh peel or zest in uh alcohol, sometimes high proof alcohol, sometimes not, until the flavor has gone in, then afterwards you add uh sugar. You strain and add sugar, right?
+
+[18:03] Basic lemon cello. I don't actually drink it, so I don't know a lot from first hand experience, but that's that's what lemoncello is. Uh many of the recipes on the internet tell you that if you add sugar to uh sugar, you know, the sugar syrup sugar solution to your lemon cello when the sugar solution is still warm or hot, that it will turn cloudy. Uh whereas if you add it when it's cold, uh it will not. And then um the the question is, uh I I don't know if that's personally true, but everyone says it, so I'm sure that it must have some truth.
+
+[18:31] And then the question is, is there any uh is there any taste difference? Is it gonna be any taste difference? Is it gonna have any impact on texture, aroma, flavor, etc.? That's that's uh Brian's question. Now I since I don't make lemon cello, I haven't had uh firsthand experience, but it's very interesting to me that limoncello would turn cloudy um w when you add warm stuff as opposed to when you add cold stuff.
+
+[18:56] Now um I I did some preliminary research in the scientific literature this morning on this problem and I was not able to find anything, unfortunately. I guess it hasn't really been studied. Usually when liquor turns cloudy, the reason liquor turns cloudy when you dilute it, is because there are oils that are uh soluble in uh high proof alcohol, but when the when the proof has been diluted, right? When the alcohol level goes down, all of a sudden those oils are no longer uh soluble and they and they precipitate out of solution into oil droplets and they become cloudy, right? This is known as the uzo effect.
+
+[19:26] So if you take uzo, sambuka, any one of these kind of uh usually pheny-based things that are high in uh in oils and you dilute them or or you know at um what's it called? Absinthe, uh, it will it will go white, cloudy. Um also uh we have this that happened a lot when I do distillation work, I do distillation at low temperature, we bring a lot of oils over, and those oils often will cloud our beverages when we dilute them or when we chill them. Usually it's when you chill something that it goes cloudy because all of a sudden uh chilling it reduces the uh solubility of the oil, and also diluting it reduces solubility of the oil, right? Now, here's my question, and you'll have to write back and and uh and answer this.
+
+[20:08] Uh my guess would be that this this is the only thing I could think of that would make it cloudy, is that oils would suddenly become not soluble. Now, if you were to add uh if you were to add um sugar syrup when everything is cold, let's say it was cold and clear and you add it, my guess is it would go cloudy right away, but maybe the oil droplets you form are big enough that they settle out. I've heard people say that uh when it becomes cloudy like that and stays cloudy, that it's bitter. That would mean that the oils stay in. So if if what's actually happening is you add the cold syrup and it forms oil droplets right away that are large enough that the oil droplets can coalesce, and then you can get them off of the product and have them go clear again.
+
+[20:48] Because I've had that happen with liquor too. I've had liquor that had so much oil, went so cloudy on me that uh after a period of a couple of days it settles out and it's clear because the oil separates out. And the the lemon oil would have a bitterness. So it so basically my my theory, and this is completely not backed up because I've never done it, is that if you it it if this phenomenon is true, perhaps what's happening when you add um warm uh when you add warm syrup, right, it doesn't actually cloud as much as it would if you added cold syrup, but that those droplets are smaller and thus more stable. There's therefore there'd be more lemon oil in it, and therefore it might be more bitter, which is what people report on the internet.
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+[21:27] Uh whereas if it's cold, the droplets formed are larger and then might coalesce and get out of the beverage uh as it sits for several days before before you've finished bottling it. But I don't know, and I've never run the test, and I would welcome anyone to either call in who's done this and talk to me about it, or or else write into the blog or the forums because it's uh it's an interesting subject. Usually the exact opposite happens, and cold things cloud up or uh uh when you dilute them more than warm ones do. So it's definitely an interesting question. I wish I had more of a finished answer.
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+[22:00] Um Derek from San Francisco writes in, and uh this this might end up being a long one, this might go over the over the break, but he he read it, and the stash is like, oh geez. I've read a number of articles and recipes, usually general source chicken or sow, whatever. What do you think? Sour so? I thought it was salad.
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+[22:18] Okay, well, I'm gonna defer to Nastash on this one. Uh about the velveting technique for cooking meat, but none has given a reasonable scientific explanation for how it works. How does velveting improved improve meat's texture? Uh, which are the typical ingredients, cornstitch, uh, cornstarch, eggs, uh, egg white wine, etc. play a significant role.
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+[22:35] Uh, thanks in advance, Derek. Okay. Uh well, uh, I don't I don't cook this way, but I did do a lot of re research on this one. It's uh it's very interesting. Um, velveting is the procedure whereby you usually take small chunks of meat, uh, you uh marinate them for a time in an egg white uh the main thing that's always there is egg white, and then usually also cornstarch.
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+[22:57] Uh and uh sometimes wine, uh salt is usually uh always present. Some people add a pinch of baking soda as well, and some people do a premarination in baking soda before they add it to the velveting mixture, the uh the egg white mixture. And the claim is that it produces a more tender uh result. If you look uh basically after you do your marination in that egg white you know gunk, you then uh take it and um either drag it through hot oil to set the egg white on the outside, or else through boiling water to set the egg white on the outside, and then proceed to stir-fry the recipe as normal, right? A couple of things are always true in these recipes.
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+[23:34] One, the pieces are small, which means that marination effect is going to be able to penetrate quickly through the whole thing. Okay. Uh that's that's the the the primary the primary thing that's true. Now, um why does this work? What the hell's going on?
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+[23:47] Uh if you look at some of the videos on the web, people say that the egg white is sealing in the juices when you search uh I have uh extreme doubts as to this. I mean, one of Harold McGee's uh you know big uh initial proofs uh in uh on food and cooking, the original one, is uh that uh you know searing does not in fact seal in the juices because you can see a whole crap load of sizzle in the pan and the sizzle is coming from evaporating water uh and the water is coming from you guessed it, the meat. Now uh having seen uh pictures of these uh chicken pieces stir-frying that have been velveted, I can tell you that there is a lot there's a crap ton of moisture escaping from those things. Now, uh the egg white coating could pr uh protect somewhat uh that you would more preferentially get the water out of the egg white first before it makes it to the chicken or whatever, thereby um you know producing less um less moisture loss inside of the meat, uh just like a batter would. Um in which case, yes, it is protecting the the meat from losing its moisture.
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+[24:44] However, uh there are a couple of other things that are going on as well that are very interesting. Um if you add baking soda, uh baking soda is alkaline, and baking soda can actually uh tenderize meat, and what we'll talk I'll talk more about baking soda uh in a minute in general, alkaline conditions in general. But um egg white is also alkaline. In fact, what's interesting is is that if you go to a uh Chinese market here in the US, eggs are often not refrigerated. Uh eggs as they age uh in a non-refrigerated environment don't necessarily become more dangerous, but they do become more alkaline.
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+[25:20] So uh an egg an egg white that starts off in the mid-sevens, pH wise, by the time it's kind of uh you know aged and become older, can have a pH upwards of uh in the nines, very alkaline, right? And so perhaps a soak in uh a very alkaline egg white would have tenderizing effect, similar to the effect that uh uh a baking soda rub uh can have, because when you lower the the pH, you're you're basically increasing uh the rate of kind of protein and uh collagen breakdown. So this could be an additional tenderizing effect. That would be offset by any sort of wine that you're adding. So any sort of wine would have acidity, would tend to counteract uh any tenderizing effect from the baking soda.
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+[26:00] So I don't know how those two things or for the baking soda or from the egg white, so I don't know how those two things would necessarily interact. The other key component in this is the salt. So whenever you add salt to uh a meat, you are basically increasing its water holding capacity. So even though you think of salt as something that dehydrates something over time, uh when you are adding salt to meat, you uh you're changing the amount of water that that protein can hold on to. So you're actually uh increasing the amount of water that it holds on to.
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+[26:29] So there are a bunch of possible effects here. And I don't know where, because again, I searched the you know before, like I searched scientific literature for limoncello, try to search the scientific literature for velveting. It just did there's nothing there. So I searched uh on bicarbonate solutions and tenderization, and there's a there's a lot of anecdotal evidence on uh bicarbonate solutions, sodium bicarbonate as baking soda, by the way. Uh so there's a lot of anecdotal evidence on that, and people who've done tests that marination and bicarbonate solutions causes tenderized meat via two different mechanisms, actually.
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+[27:01] One, straight tenderization, uh presumably because of the alkaline nature and also the uh ionic you know character that it's changing the water holding capacity of the proteins. But also uh uh when uh baking soda is heated, it decomposes, forms uh carbon dioxide gas, and so makes a porous structure in the meat and actually creates a porosity in the meat that can be interpreted as tenderness. Those are two different um two different things that could be going on. Egg white perhaps is having some of a similar effect in terms of uh of tenderizing because it can be alkaline. Um salt would tend to tenderize.
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+[27:32] I don't know where the wine would fit in, and thirdly, just straight in robing in a uh protein mixture of uh egg white would help to protect the uh the chicken from uh overcooking. A third thing that would would be happening, I mean a fourth or fifth, who knows how many I've done. Uh another thing that might be happening is alkaline things brown faster. So uh when you have something that's uh alkaline, in fact, there's a people who do studies on adding a little bit uh in Holland, they did it in Netherlands, they did a study where they added baking soda to ground meat, and they found that it browned a lot faster because alkaline conditions uh increase browning rates, right? So, for instance, you take a pretzel.
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+[28:09] Pretzels are boiled in uh either baking soda or lye, alkaline conditions before they're baked, and that's why they have that really dark, dark color and also that characteristic pretzel taste. If you cook uh cook a pretzel without boiling it in alkaline conditions, it doesn't taste like a pretzel. It tastes like mm you know like a bagel or something that's hard, you know. So you definitely need that alkaline condition to get that really rapid browning. Um I tend to hate it when it's applied to meat.
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+[28:34] We ran a bunch of tests when uh you know when Harold McGee comes into his lecture at the school, we do a bunch of tests where we cook baking so uh we put baking soda into ground meat, and yeah, it browned fast, but it tasted god awful. I mean terrible. Did you taste that one, Nastasha? Terrible. Uh very small amounts of it added to um added to onions can radically change the browning characteristics of onions, make them brown very quickly.
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+[28:58] It and you know, made them actually lose more water too. Is very is very interesting. So these alkaline shifts in alkaline uh alkalinity really have a huge effect on proteins and how they brown. Similarly, when you're making noodles, uh a lot of uh a lot of uh you know, Asian noodle recipes will use something called can sue, which is basically an alkaline uh uh additive, and it and it makes the gluten more stretchy and also makes the noodles uh yellow because you're basically shifting um the functionality of the of the gluten proteins by uh shifting the pH towards more alkaline conditions. Um, uh long story long and long story confusing is that uh you know the alkaline uh egg white might be making it brown faster.
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+[29:40] It might also be um it might also be tenderizing. If it makes it brown faster, then you think it's done faster, meaning uh you're not gonna overcook it as much. So that could be another reason why perhaps the meat is more tender when it's when it's cooked this way. So it's a uh a very complicated subject. I don't think it's been adequately studied.
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+[29:57] I don't uh I haven't done any uh side-by-side taste tests, so it's hard for me to say for certain uh what's going on. But these are my uh best and worst guesses at at what what's happening. Uh anyway, so that brings us to our second break. Uh call in your questions at 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128.
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+[30:18] Cooking issues. I want to get on your good food. I got the eat on the food food. Going down through the three, and let all hang out. I wear some beef button, but let it all hang out.
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+[30:51] Where people can find the hand. And then you hear the music. Do it with the good foot. Say the whole battery, all get together, all these tracks, and they put it. That's on my favorite.
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+[31:34] Welcome back to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network. Uh Dave Arnold and Nastasha Lopez here. Today's Cooking Issues brought to you by the Barter House and uh their fine wine from uh Uruguay. Booza Booza with temporary and tanat grapes, which we're enjoying right now. Um we're boozing on booze.
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+[31:53] Okay, so uh we have another. Oh, by the way, you still have a couple minutes to call in your questions, and I know you want to, to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. And uh a little programming note, next week we won't be coming to you live from Tuesday. We're gonna try and pre-record.
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+[32:12] We'll put on the blog when we're gonna do it in case you want to call in. But next week I'll be teaching uh sous vide and low temperature cooking with Nils at the French Culinary Institute. Uh it's actually I like that I like the class a lot. It's a good class. We're already we're already full for all of you, Sous vide nuts, so you'll have to sign up for the next the next one.
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+[32:30] But it's an interesting class. We do, you know, uh a billion different tastings, and it's uh it's pretty hardcore, but it's uh it's a lot of fun. And I actually learn something every time I teach it because we get to we get to you know uh taste together with a group of uh seventeen, you know, people and the the people who take the class are usually pretty hardcore. So I I end up always learning a lot, even myself. Anyway, um okay.
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+[32:53] Uh let me see this is b uh uh sorry. Okay. Uh we have a Swedish listener uh who you know can't call in. I guess the time difference is too great for him. And uh he says that uh I assume it's a him.
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+[33:04] Let me see. Hans, yes. Uh uh, he has heard it's possible to make frozen slushies um with a soda siphon. He's interested specifically in the possibility of a frozen mojito. Uh do you have any experience with that?
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+[33:17] He says he's tried it, but he hasn't gotten good results. They were nice and bubbly, um, but no freezing. Okay. Um and he says he hasn't tried it with a soda siphon yet, just with a cream whipper. Okay, cream whipper, by the way, we're talking about is a whipped cream maker that you charge with nitrous oxide, and a siphon is basically a soda siphon is one that's meant to operate to make to make seltzer.
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+[33:39] Now, um I don't think it should make a difference whether you use uh nitrous oxide or CO2 because both have relatively the same weight and similar solubilities in water. So I don't think it's going to make a difference which gas you use. So the question is do the mechanisms of the two uh are they different? Now this uh harks back to something we talked about last week, actually, which is uh the idea of super freezing. We talked a little bit about super freezing.
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+[34:00] Was it last week, Nastasha? Super freezing? Yeah, yeah. Yeah. Uh and maybe that's why Hans wrote in the the question.
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+[34:06] Um here are some issues. One, I don't think you can do it with a mojito because mojito has uh the crushed up um uh mint in it, and so that's going to provide a nucleation site, so you're not gonna get very much supercooling. The way that this slushy thing, if it works, which I have never done it before, uh if it works, here's how it works. You uh put a drink into a clean vessel. It's clean, right?
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+[34:27] The drink itself is clean, clear, doesn't have any cloudiness in it, right? So lime juice might be a problem. I'm not sure, right? Uh you might want to you might want to keep the lime juice separate, you know, chill your lime juice down and then take the frozen drink with everything but the lime juice and and and slush it, because the lime juice I think is going to cause a problem. You want to chill it below the temperature at which it freezes, right?
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+[34:51] And then uh you want to initiate ice nucleation so that it forms crystals. It's a technique called super freezing. You can look it up on YouTube and you can see uh you know super super supercooling, rather. You can look up supercooling and freezing, and this works. So, one, your lime juice is gonna be a problem.
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+[35:07] Put your lime juice uh last after it's basically been slushed out. Um, your the advantage of using the siphon is that when you are um when you charge it with gas the gas is actually lowering the freezing point of your of your mixture okay so it allows you to supercool it uh even more because what happens is when you when you spray it out you're doing two things one you're introducing a bunch of nucleation sites because it's gonna bubble and the bubble provides ice nucleation sites and you're gonna get your crystal growth you're also as the stuff foams out of it you are um you are releasing gas and as it releases gas the freezing point goes up and it should crystallize faster so you win two times so here's what I would do I'm not guaranteeing this is gonna work because I haven't tried it but I would mix your drink with water and by the way you're gonna want uh uh assuming you want the same sort of dilution that a daiquiri has uh the post that we're gonna hopefully put up in a day or two on cooking issues part two of our of our mega cocktail post part one went up on Thursday I think part two is going to go up probably tomorrow um you know it turns out that shaking drinks are quite dilute more dilute than you'd think more in the range of like 16% alcohol in that range so you're gonna want to uh dilute it down to finish right except for you know hope you know keep in mind that the lime juice is gonna dilute it more omit the lime juice just water sugar syrup and booze right uh any salt if you want charge it with uh with nitrous put it in your freezer right uh that mixture should freeze uh somewhere in the vicinity of like minus eight, ten, minus, no, like minus ten, somewhere in that, somewhere minus Celsius. I have to look it up exactly, but somewhere in that region, so you should super cool it down. Your freezer should be fine. You're gonna have to experiment with it a little bit.
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+[36:57] Then immediately turn your siphon upside, you know, your cre whipped cream thing upside down, you know, like out. You want to get rid of as much gas as possible and also um, you know, and also get it into your cup as fast as possible, and with any luck, you will be able to get some uh foaming. Another thing you could do is just unscrew the lid and let it de-aerate like that, and then you should be able to get some. Pour it out into a uh in into a juice, stir in your lime juice, done. Done.
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+[37:27] If it works, if it works, and there's there's no guarantee, there's no guarantee that she's gonna work. Okay. So uh uh on the subject of cocktails, uh, I did an interesting study over the weekend, Nastasha, and in uh in preface for the uh for the post that we're working on. Um shaken and stirred drinks, and we've mentioned this a bunch of times, but stake shaken and stirred drinks are different, right? So one of the differences between a shaken drink and a stirred drink is stirred drinks are typically less diluted than than shaken drinks, right?
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+[37:55] Typically a stirred drink is gonna have a much lower amount of water added to it than it than a shaking drink is. Uh two, shaking drinks are aerated more because they're shaken, right? And back in the day, I used to think it was you know malarkey that uh that all that aeration would stay. I thought it was a very transient effect, but through several blind tastes that we've done, I've been proven wrong, as is often the case. And uh shaking drinks are in fact different on a textural basis from stirred drinks, as well as being uh more diluted.
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+[38:24] Now the question is then if you're having a party, how are you gonna make uh shaking drinks for everyone if you want to do pre-if you want to pre-dilute the batch? For instance, you're gonna run out of ice, you don't feel like having your ice around, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah. You don't want to shake live because it's a pain in the ass, etc. I mean, but etc. etc.
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+[38:40] etc. Uh, and in the school, we tested uh a couple of different things. One, we just uh served a chilled shaken drink, right? That we had a chilled drink that was diluted the same amount as a shaken drink, and that um uh you know didn't taste like a shaken drink. We uh could be tasted that side by side with a shaking drink, and also one that we'd put in a blender.
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+[39:00] The blender didn't work because the bubbles were too big, it was weird. And then we also chilled one with liquid nitrogen. And liquid nitrogen, it turns out, as it as it cools, with the advantage here is you can use warm drink as well. As it cools, it adds little bubbles because the nitrogen's boiling off, and that turns out to be very close to shaken drink. Uh, I realize that most of you out there don't have liquid nitrogen.
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+[39:20] So here's the good news. I ran another test over the weekend where we took the chilled drink, we took a chilled drink straight out of the freezer, we diluted it uh as much as you would for a uh a um shake and drink, and just tune into our website in a couple days to find out what that answer is because it's too complicated to explain over the over the radio, it wouldn't make any damn sense anyway. But uh look it up on our blog. But here's the good news. Dilute the drink, put it in your freezer, don't let it freeze, put it in your freezer, and then um just put it into a cocktail shaker without ice and just shake it before you pour it out.
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+[39:53] That's it. And you can get most of the stuff back. So I ran a test over the weekend where we took uh chilled diluted cocktail, a fresh shaken cocktail, and then a chilled diluted cocktail that we shook just in a quart container, and a chilled uh a chilled diluted cocktail that I shook in a quart container with a bunch of uh I have a bunch of strainers, uh Hawthorne uh strainers, um, you know, the the ones with the spring, the cocktail strainers with the spring. I ripped all the springs off and threw them into the core container. This is a trick I learned from Audrey Saunders, who was testing this to aerate her egg white drinks, you know, a number of years ago.
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+[40:28] Anyway, so and I did a one with uh one with the springs in a core container and just shook the heck out of them for a couple of seconds and then poured them out. And blind, the shaken, fresh shaken drink was very similar to the ones that were shaken uh just in a core container, uh straight from the freezer, and ones that were uh shaken in a core container with uh springs straight from the freezer. Uh the shaking drink was a little bit different uh and uh was preferred by some people, but the other two are very, very close approximation. So if you pre-dilute your drinks, store them in core containers in the freezer, you know, take it a core container is uh it's what you get from like a takeout joint. You know, we have them everywhere at the school, but it's what you get takeout joint.
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+[41:08] Store your drinks in the core container, uh, you know, make sure there's a lot of air left in it, and then as they're ready, just pull them out of your freezer, shacka shaka, shaka, shaka, shaka, shack. So what drink did you make and how long did you keep it in your freezer for before you took it out? Uh I kept it in there for like an hour, and uh it was probably a little colder. I was trying to make it exactly as cold as a shaken drink. If I let it sit there longer, it would have gotten a little bit colder.
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+[41:31] Um I was making um what was it making? I was making uh daiquiris, straight daiquires. And the um and I used the same exact mix, so I pre-mixed everything, held some aside and shook one live, and then the other ones I shook um, you know, I I I pre-shook. I actually pre-shook them traditionally and then let them sit for uh you know for a while to get rid of all the texture from shaking and then froze them down. The reason I did that was uh I wanted to make sure that they were diluted exactly the same amount as the fresh, fresh uh frozen guy.
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+[42:04] Um what was interesting is some people preferred the one that was in the freezer. They preferred it because it had it was more intense, uh, because it didn't have the air bubbles in, and the one with the springs was actually the most aerated, and therefore some people liked it the least because it was the the least intense. My mom oh, it wasn't uh Dacri, sorry, it was whiskey sours. My mom, who doesn't like whiskey, was that happened to be my house at the time, she liked that one best because it tasted the least like whiskey. It was well or actually no, she liked the one without the springs, which wasn't the most airy because everyone said that that one tasted sweeter, which is bizarre.
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+[42:39] Just because it show how complicated the cocktail is. Uh, my stepfather who's booze hound and w wine nut, an amazing palette. I've seen him pick wines blind out of, you know, uh mean a m you you'll walk up to him with a wine and a tinfoil wrapper and you know, pour it and he'll be like, Yeah, that's blah, blah, blah. Me's mean you can't argue with the man's palate. You can argue with a lot about uh about uh Gerard, but not his palate.
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+[43:00] Um so you know, he he actually preferred the one that uh w was allowed to sit in the freezer because he I guess it was denser. He preferred it more. Uh and he he preferred the one that had the most air in it least. Um We have a collar. We have a collar.
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+[43:15] Oh, at the last under the wire, collar comes in under the water. Caller on the air. Hi, this is Garrett. Um I'm calling because I have a question about carbonating cocktails. Okay.
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+[43:27] I've seen the systems they have, like the Perlini system, but I wanted to know just how to do it with a regular soda siphon and uh if you've had any experience with carbonating cocktails, and uh yeah, just your ideas about it. I have had a lot of experience carbonating with cocktails. Um I tend to carbonate cocktails with uh 20 pound CO2 tanks and um and uh ball lock fittings, which is like you know, so old soda fittings that home brewers use. And for a list of the stuff, it doesn't cost that much to get that system actually. That's what I've been I've been doing that for a long, long time.
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+[44:04] Um there's on our forums you can look up a list for that. Now, carbonating with it with a siphon, here's the problem with it. I've done a I've done it. I wouldn't use a soda siphon, I'd use a cream whipper for it. Um there also ISI is introducing a new system called the soda stream.
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+[44:19] Uh not the soda stream, oh geez, that's a different company, but soda something. Sparkle, soda sparkle, sparkle and shimmer or something. Anyway. But um, here's what I would do. The pro the main problem with any of these systems is you can't get rid of the air space above the drink.
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+[44:34] Air is the enemy of carbonation. So when you uh have that head space with air and you're and you're shaking it, it does two things. It it it decreases um the places where CO2 can make it into your drink, and also when you un when you uncap it, they're not that soluble and they form bubbles and they they foam out. So if you have if you can afford it, you're gonna need to use two chargers to charge it, right? One, you want to do like a quick shake out with it, and then uh take your whipper.
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+[45:03] This is why I say use a whipper, right? Not the soda siphon, unless you have a soda siphon. If you have a soda siphon, turn it upside down when you're doing this. So to shake it a couple of times, uh you're trying to get a little bit of CO2 in, and it's gonna get rid of the nucleation sites in your in your in your drink and also get rid of the air, and then immediately vent out all of that gas. And so what's happening now is you're getting rid of the air and the oxygen and all the nasty stuff that's the enemy of carbonation, and you're getting rid of some of the nucleation sites that are in your drink.
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+[45:29] Then you want to add your second, make sure it's ice cold. In fact, if you have a couple of ice cubes in it, it's even better because you want it really, really cold. Then you put your second charger in, and then you shake it for carbonation, right? Then you let it sit for a couple of minutes to settle out. Then you slowly vent it, open it and pour out the drink, and you can get get good results.
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+[45:48] I would start with uh things that carbonate well I tend not to like carbonated rum drinks that I carbonate for some reason. That's personal preference. I know some people that like a carbonated daiquiry. I tend not to like things carbonated like Manhattan's but I don't like the really bitters when they're carbonated. But you know I carbonate a lot of gin drinks a lot of gin drinks uh carbonate um you know carb carbonate I like bubbles in almost everything you know what I mean but just a couple a couple of drinks that that I don't like um the other issue with uh the with the siphon is that uh you only get these seven gram seven or eight gram increments of CO2 and really you want to fine-tune the amount of bubbles that you're putting into a drink so people don't notice it as much in cocktails because they're not used to tasting for for specific flavors in cocktails as much as they are in wine but if you carbonate wine wine is extremely sensitive to the amount of CO2 that you put into it such that the difference between um I I use pressure because I'm using a tank so the difference in using like 30 uh 35 PSI versus 40 psi is the difference between delicious and you blast the fruit out of it and accentuate the oak too much right so the that that's my other gripe with using the the cartridges is that they don't have the fine control over the amount of bubbles present that you would get if you had a tank.
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+[47:06] The tank system's really easy actually like you know I have like I say I'm a little bit nutty I have it in my house but you know it's uh it's not actually that nutty like you know I live in the city in a tiny apartment with two kids. You know what I mean? Like on the on the third floor. Uh but you should definitely experiment. Uh you can definitely experiment using a cream whipper or or a siphon to start.
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+[47:25] How would you how would you vent the gas with the siphon? Because you would vent out the liquid, wouldn't you? Turn it upside down. Turn it upside down. Oh, and then the gas would come out without the liquid coming out if you turn it upside down?
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+[47:36] Exactly. Oh, okay. All right. Yeah, but I how much uh how much the system that you have, how much is that? How much of a problem money wise?
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+[47:45] It's not. And here's here's the thing, right? I'm gonna offend my good friends at uh at uh EC, but uh there's a a company out of uh Guntersville, Alabama called Mark Powers, and uh they they sell soda equipment and the stuff there is so cheap, you can get like a 20-pound CO2 tank empty for like ninety dollars and a regulator for like thirty dollars, the hosing's like thirteen cents a foot, and the connectors, you know, they're like you can get the whole thing, including the carbonator caps, which you have to order from a homebrew supply, uh, and then you use soda bottles, you get the whole thing for you know, under under like one thirty, one fifty in that range. You go to your I don't know where you live, but you go to your local welding supply shop, and then you just unfortunately this is like kills people. You hand them your new tank and they hand you like an old beat up tank, but it's full of CO2.
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+[48:36] That's like an uh uh like an $18 problem. But one tank of CO2 uh will do two to four hundred gallons of drink. Okay. Now one thing you have to remember, you everything has to be cold when you're doing it, and if you want to be consistent, you want it to always be the same amount of cold. And here's the other thing that a lot of people don't think about.
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+[48:55] Water, uh alcohol is actually uh CO2 is more soluble in alcohol than water. So in order to get the same effect of bubbles in in an alcohol drink, you need to add more CO2 than you would in water. Okay? So the higher the alcohol content, the more you need to add. So I happen to like carbonated Negronies, right?
+
+[49:13] And so uh carbonated Negroni is a high proof, so you need to add a lot more pressure to a Negroni than you would to uh a wine, right? That's why sake typically, if you're gonna carbonate sake, you carbonate sake at a higher alcohol, uh higher pressure than you would carbonate like a white wine, which typically has a lower alcohol content. So you have to scale the pressure to the alcohol content of your drink. So the higher the proof, the higher the pressure, basically. Bingo, for the same flavor, yeah.
+
+[49:39] For the same effect of carbonation on your tongue, yeah. All right, well, thank you. Alright, well, good good luck. You're entering you're entering one of the most rewarding things in the world, bubbles. Bubbles, bubbles, bubbles.
+
+[49:51] All right, thanks for calling in, and that was cooking issues for this week. Uh we won't be live next week, but we will figure something out for you. And thanks to Barter House and Booza. Vicious Vish. Oh, you did me on this corner.
+
+[50:16] And I don't know where I'm at. Supposed to meet my baby. Between a minute's late. You got my head all twisted.
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+[0:12] Hello, you're listening to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, the host of Cooking Issues, coming to you today with Nastasha Lopez, the Cooking Issues Hammer. We are not live today. We are pre-recording this because Tuesday, when we're normally uh broadcasting, I will be teaching Sous vide and low temperature cooking class at the French Culinary Institute. A fine class.
+
+[0:34] This one's full, unfortunately, so you can't uh sign up for it anymore. But uh you can sign up for the next one. Um so you can't call in live, but I'm still gonna give you the number so you can write it down for your records. The number to call in to the studio here is 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128.
+
+[0:54] The number to call in to Cooking Issues, the show where we answer all of your cooking issues. Um, a couple of you know notes here. You might hear some music in the background, and that's because today, Sunday is the Bushwick block party, right? Uh Bushwick, Brooklyn, for those of you that don't, you know, know is kind of like what Hipster's Paradise? What do you say?
+
+[1:15] History Paradise? Yeah. So the whole block was shut down and Robert's Pizza, which hosts the Heritage Radio Network, is uh hosting this block party, and so it's kind of pandemonium outside of the studio right now. Uh by the way, the studio, for those of you that don't know, the studio here is actually, I think uh like a a container or some sort of something. I swear to God, that's been dropped into the middle of Brooklyn and they put a garden on top of it and there's kind of a window where we can, you know, view view Brooklyn out of this window.
+
+[1:39] Is that pretty much accurate? Yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah, yeah. Anyway. Uh okay.
+
+[1:43] Uh couple uh right? Yeah, anyway. A couple other announcements before we get to the email questions that uh have come in. There's a lot of events coming up uh with us in the next uh month or so. So I'm just gonna list some of them.
+
+[1:55] Uh some of them are gonna require us to pre-record again, some aren't. Uh I think the the next thing that's gonna come up is uh Starchefs. Uh Starchefs uh you go to Starchefs.com. Nils and I are doing uh a bunch of events there. We have a uh a mixology demonstration and we're doing some couple of cocktails.
+
+[2:11] That's coming up the week of uh September 20th, so you want it might want to stop by and see us there. Um then uh Heritage Uh Radio is having uh a big fundraising barbecue. It's called the uh Heritage Radio Party, the Heritage Party, and it's on set uh Saturday, September 25th. It's here at Roberta's in Brooklyn. It's uh $100 a crack to uh attend, $100 per person.
+
+[2:35] Uh we will be making some drinks, probably with liquid nitrogen. What else? We decided what we're gonna do. It's gonna be Maker's Mark. Yeah.
+
+[2:40] Right? Have we decided what kind of fruit we're gonna use? I thought it was peaches. Well it depends on what well, okay, here's what's gonna happen. We're gonna get makersmark, we're gonna find whatever the most delicious fruit to add to Maker's Mark at that particular moment is.
+
+[2:52] We're gonna clarify it in a centrifuge, and then we're gonna we're gonna add liquid nitrogen to it, hopefully, on site here, hopefully liquid nitrogen if we can get it delivered here, and uh serve you some delicious cocktails. So uh you're gonna want to call in to 718-389-8985. That's 718-389-0985 to uh RSVP for that, or uh email info at heritage radio.com. Uh then uh right. Then uh on October 4th, uh we're gonna No, wait, there's the New York Culinary Experience.
+
+[3:25] Oh, but that's something that's sold out already. Well, anyway, assuming it's not sold out, you can come see Nills and I do uh cocktail demonstration. Uh what when is that one, Nastashi? October 2nd. October 2nd at the French Culinary Institute.
+
+[3:37] Uh seating is extremely limited. I don't know how much uh that guy costs. Then uh we have the um Berlin Bar Show on October 4th, where I'm gonna be doing uh a recap with Evan Clem of the science of shaking, science of stirring in Berlin. It's actually the first time I've ever gone to Berlin. Uh luckily for me, uh I I was supposed to go for four days and have kind of a mellow time, fly in, have a day to recompress, but uh, you know, it's something came up, and so I had to switch my flight, and I'm literally flying in on the red eye, landing at six and giving a talk at twelve.
+
+[4:10] So I don't sleep on airplanes, so I'm if you come if you live in Berlin and you come see us in Berlin, expect to see someone, you know, that may or may not have their hair slicked back with their own feces. We're not sure. We'll see. We'll see what we can do there. Uh I'm just kidding.
+
+[4:27] Um you know, anyway. Uh then uh on October 16th, you can come see us at the London Bar Show where we're going to be doing a presentation on uh roto vapping uh liquors. It's being sponsored by Oxley Gen, correct? Yes. Whoo.
+
+[4:44] All right. So uh that with our bookkeeping out of the way, uh, I guess right, we can get to some questions? Yes. Okay, let's get to some questions. Uh Jacob Hartleieb said, uh, thank you for the show, love listening to it.
+
+[4:57] Thank you, Jacob. Uh, although he writes his name once as Jacob, and another one as uh my friend of mine has the same name, Yacoubs. I'm not sure which one. I don't know. Anyway, I'm not sure.
+
+[5:06] He lives in Cooks in Oklahoma. Uh and a trend he's noticed among chefs is using wild ingredients, right? Uh not farm to table, he says, more like wild, find it yourself ingredients, uh such as like the dunoma or like Michelle Bra does, or Moogaritz. And he's fascinated with this style of cooking and is pretty sure it's been around for a long time. So he wants to know the following.
+
+[5:24] Is there a book, blog, or guide on wild herbs, plants, trees, berries, etc. that are edible, and uh, you know, what can guide you to do that? All right. Um so uh this is uh a question that is close to my heart. I unfortunately don't know any blogs to do it, but you know, uh I the only reason I like to travel uh to places that are near the wilderness uh is so that I can gather wild food when I'm there.
+
+[5:49] For instance, uh when I go to the Grand Canyon, uh I'm I'm I don't really care that much about the the actual Grand Canyon, it's like what kind of you know what can grow around there. I mean the this is this is a little piece of me. You'll know me a little better uh if you understand this. Like once you see the Grand Canyon, I'm like, yeah, that's beautiful. It is, it's beautiful, right?
+
+[6:07] But I mean, come on. Right? I've seen one hole, you've seen the other one. Right. Now, food is a different matter altogether.
+
+[6:12] Food you can keep eating all the time, right? No? Right? When I go to the beach, all I care about is the stuff that grows along the seashore and the stuff that I can get in the water at the seashore. That's basically it, because I detest sand and sun, right?
+
+[6:24] Right. When I go to forests, I want to know what grows there. Anyway, so this is a subject that I like a lot. Um, and whenever I'm going to travel someplace new and gonna be, you know, outside in nature, I try to get a guidebook that helps me. The the problem is is that what you're gonna particularly look for in an area really depends on where you live.
+
+[6:42] Uh so uh I think a good first starting point, even though they're dated, right? The the best writing on wild food that I have ever read is by a guy named Yule Gibbons. Uh I don't forget how to spell Yule. I I can't spell out loud, I don't have a piece of paper on me. But uh Yule Yule Gibbons, uh his two most famous books are Stalking the Wild Asparagus and Stalking the Wild Scallop.
+
+[7:03] And they're written probably late 60s, somewhere in that, late 60s, early 70s, somewhere in that range. And uh they are fantastic books. Now, again, they're a little bit dated, but he was a guy, and all he really liked to do was go out and uh forage for wild foods, talking, you know, animals, uh, you know, like sea creatures. He never wrote any books on hunting. Uh there is a book on how to illegally poach animals if you're interested in that, but you can't really serve those things in a restaurant.
+
+[7:29] Uh but you know, he has in-depth uh books on on searching certain things. Now he uh spent a lot of it, he spent time all over the country, which is why his books are good. So he has a little bit of something for everyone, no matter where you live in the US. Uh, but he a lot of his knowledge centers around uh Pennsylvania where he lived. He did a lot of work up in Maine, uh, he did a lot of work in on the West Coast in California.
+
+[7:49] And so he has a lot of uh, you know, he has a lot of really interesting um interesting things, and he's got a really good perspective. So if you haven't ever read any book on foraging, I would go immediately buy those books on Bookfinder. They're basically free. No one cares about them. Uh I would get Stalking the Wild asparagus and stalking the wild scallop.
+
+[8:07] Now, if you're interested in something specific like mushrooms, right? Uh I you know, I have a bunch of guidebooks on uh mushrooms, and you know, I guess uh I don't remember off the top of my head which the best ones are, but uh if you go to Paul Stamitz's website, he's uh out on the West Coast, I think in um I forget whether he's in Washington or or in uh Oregon, but he's uh you know one of the worldwide authorities on fungus. I would not go collecting mushrooms for the first time by yourself. I would find any one of the local mycological societies in your area, they usually sponsor tours where you can go learn how to properly gather mushrooms in your area without getting poisoned, right? It's important not to get poisoned.
+
+[8:46] Uh the same thing goes true with plants. So when you get beginners' books on wild on wild food collecting, the the important thing is to realize what is easy to recognize and what is uh easy to confuse with something poisonous, right? Because there are a couple of mistakes you can make that if you make that mistake, you can die, right? Yeah, yeah. But but actually that's the main problem that happens when someone's used to gathering something wild in one area, right, where it's totally safe, and then they go to another area where there's something similar that looks similar but is poisonous, right?
+
+[9:19] That's that can happen sometimes. So it's best to know what grows in your in your uh area. And also if you go with someone who's ever done it, who's experienced, right, they can point to you, and once you see a plant live and you touch it live, you smell it live, and you gather it live, odds are you're never gonna make a mistake with it, right? Uh and so in general, I I would read all those books, and I wish I had more of the modern books available, but I would uh um you know go with someone who's done it before as just a foolproof thing. Now, that aside, there are some things that are extremely easy to uh you know, easy to figure out.
+
+[9:52] Um even in New York City where I live, there's enough uh there's a a wild green called um uh auric, uh sorry, uh Lamb's Quarters related to orc. And Lamb's Quarters is a great uh you know green and it grows wild in New York City. Any place there's a vacant lot in New York City, I could in the Lower East Side today, if I wasn't worried about uh back to feces again, feces and urine sprayed all over it, and who know God knows how much gas exhaust and all that, I could create a delicious salad out of stuff growing out of the vacant lots within two blocks of my house on the lower east side. I've never done it because ew. Your wife would kill you.
+
+[10:28] Yeah, yeah, but you know, you you could. So uh, you know, just because you live in a high density area, if there's vacant lots, there's still the opportunity to uh search for greens. Another mistake people make with wild foods is they try and have their entire they you know look, you know it's very difficult unless you live in the middle of some vast wilderness where there's known supplies of wild crap to be able to go and get all of your food or substantial portion of your food from uh wild uh wild items. But there is almost always something you can gather wild locally at any given time in the year to add an accent note or to or to you know round things out or to bring out a lot of flavors. So it's a subject I'm very interested in.
+
+[11:07] Uh and you know, thanks. I think this is the first question we've had on that. Yeah, I think so. Yeah, I mean my favorite things to collect is uh there's a in Maine where I go every year, there's a wild sea rocket that is just I mean it's really, really spicy and a little bit bitter. You know, rock it like arugula, but uh I love gathering that stuff.
+
+[11:24] And I mix it with auric, which is the seaside version of Lamb's Quarters, uh, and it makes just a fantastic salad, and they also have wild sea beans there, which are salty, so you don't need the extra salt from it. That's a like the best seaside salad uh ever, you know. And then uh of course from the water there you get mussels and you know, sea urchins and you know, just fantastic things. But I don't know I've never been to Oklahoma, unfortunately, so I don't know what grows around there, but I guarantee you that there is something good to be had. Uh so thank you for calling that in.
+
+[11:55] The second part of his question was uh do you uh how do you extract pine needle flavor or tree bark flavor flavor? I don't have access to a rotov app, but I do have uh a vacuum packer and a whipped cream maker. Um so the I'm not sure how he he wants to know whether you can do it in oil. I presumably he doesn't want to do it in uh alcohol because he suggests oil and water. Uh pine needle flavor um you can extract extremely well into alcohol in a vacuum machine.
+
+[12:22] I'm assuming you can do it in an ISI whipper. I haven't done it. I don't know what the results will be into oil. I can just say to try it out. But there are some varieties of things that look like pines that are poisonous.
+
+[12:29] For instance, um the yew, uh it looks kind of like pine is poisonous. Uh but most pine trees, now listen, please look this up. Like, don't go out and say Dave Arnold said pine trees are. But you know, that's the old joke actually they used to make about Yule Gibbons, is you'd go around saying many parts of a pine tree are edible. Because they are, right?
+
+[12:55] You got your pine nuts, and and uh, but uh you know, I make a habit, and Nils makes a habit actually of walking around in the springtime pulling the new shoot, uh the new new growth pine needles off of pine trees and chewing on them because they're fantastic. So, you know, it's classically you can make a tea out of pine needles and you can uh I'm sure you can make a flavored oil out of it or water using a vacuum or an ISI. The trick with pine is that uh most people have um most people have an association with pine uh of uh yeah like lysol, uh not lysol, what's that stuff called? Pine salt, pine salt. So you know that they're really worried that it's gonna go pine sally and it's gonna taste, and so I like pine drinks and Nils likes pine drinks, and we do them, but you have to be super super careful.
+
+[13:39] So you also want to make sure that you're you know that you that the type of pine you use, like you know, whether it's kind of like a sprucey kind of flavor or a fur kind of flavor, like a dug fur or whatever, it is it doesn't taste too bathroom uh cleanser-y because if it does, even if it's delicious, people won't like it. For instance, la lavender does the same thing. So a lot of people they'll like to mix with lavender. There's a good 50 to 60 percent of the population that if they detect lavender at all, they're gonna say it tastes like uh like perfume or a bathroom. And so and it should just have to do with association, not because it's not delicious.
+
+[14:10] And so I've had a lot of problems, a lot of heartache trying to make pine things that I think are delicious, and some people don't like them just because of their associations with them. And you know what? That's that's the breaks. You just gotta be careful of it. So if you're making it for yourself, it's one thing, but if you're making it for someone else, it's just something to be um aware of.
+
+[14:28] Um anyway, so I hope that uh answers. Oh, and bark, you want to know about bark. Uh I've never done any work with bark. I bet you can extract it, but the mean I've the closest I've had to bark is basically wood extracts, and they're pretty weird, they're kind of sour, and uh, you know, if you if you've ever had a rotovap and you've rotovapped uh, you know, alcohol out, you're left with basically oak water, and it's some pretty potent kind of barky wood taste. I bet you could do it.
+
+[14:57] I don't know how potent it's gonna be though when it's done uh via vacuum machine. But please give it a shot and tell us, right? Okay. Uh okay, now let's go to the next question from Chip Stadnik. Chip Stadnik asks us, uh, first of all, he says hello, he hopes all's well, Nastasha.
+
+[15:14] Is it? Yeah. It's well, it's doing well. Okay. He wants to know about the uh poly science smoking gun versus an herbal vaporizer with a whip.
+
+[15:22] And uh there's something called the pocket travel portable butane handheld herbal vaporizer that he found on eBay. Uh and so let me just he wants to know about the difference between them, which you know, is it worthwhile getting one versus the other? Uh and I think most people aren't gonna know uh what uh we're talking about. So I will tell you. So in the I don't know, eighties or something, people started making little vacuum cleaners, uh handheld vacuum cleaners for um for computer keyboards, basically, to vacuum crap out of computer keyboards.
+
+[15:54] And someone who is apparently enterprising when they're not stoned, but when they're stoned as extremely lazy, decided to reverse the battery in one of these things and drive them backwards. So instead of becoming vacuum cleaners, they're actually little blowers. And then they unscrewed the top and they screwed in a pipe bowl into the top of it, and then they would pack marrow what tobacco, right? They'd pack marijuana into the top, light it, turn it on, and it would automatically, you know, create pot smoke without, you know, without you having to exert the extra energy to inhale, right? I mean basically like extremely lazy pot smoker thing, right?
+
+[16:29] And this became kind of a popular item in uh head shops. Head shop here, I don't know if you're from abroad, that means a place where you go to buy pot stuff, uh, you know, and listen to Grateful Dead and whatnot. The um uh about you know, in the early 2000s, mid-2000s, these things started to be used in Europe primarily at the beginning to do smoking. So they would put wood chips and other flavored herbs into them, light them, and blow out smoke. And so famously, uh, you know, the Roca brothers uh at El Calar Canroca would blow smoke underneath a big cloche, and then they would lift the cloche up when they when it came to your table.
+
+[17:00] You wouldn't see the food, they would lift it up and the smoke would rise up uh, you know, and just you know envelop you, or they had a thing where they had a slipper-shaped glass and they would have a plastic over it and they would inject smoke into it, and every time you ate off of this tightly stretched plastic on the top, a smoke ring would puff up and you would get the aroma of the smoke. Okay. So that and the poly science, the people, the good people that make uh circulators, now available Williams Doma, uh they um they made basically a more robust version of this that they sell called the smoking gun. So most people use this to inject smoke into things, or you know, some people have rigged it to inject smoke into their vacuum machines right after it's vacuumed. Um smoking with them is kind of interesting.
+
+[17:42] It's not the same thing as regular smoking. You'll notice if you inject smoke into into uh a container and let it sit, that all of a sudden it'll become clear the particles will settle out. Uh so I don't think that's continuous smoking gives it I don't think that this smoking gun gives the same flavor as continuous smoking, but I think it's useful for for a lot of things. Now a vaporizer is entirely different. In a smoking uh in the smoking gun, and anything like the smoking gun, you're actually lighting the product on fire, combusting it, and that's how you're making smoke.
+
+[18:08] Okay? Now, in a vaporizer, and the most famous one of these is the volcano vaporizer, and it's uh most famously used in in cooking by Grant Aikitz at Linnea restaurant in Chicago. Uh and and the way a vaporizer works is fundamentally different. Instead of com lighting the material on fire and then uh having you know having it burn, instead you heat a chamber uh to, you know, to a temperature that basically literally vaporizes the the material uh without actually lighting it on fire. And then uh usually the you know, some sort of air is forced through it, and then you get uh like a in the volcano you get a bag full of flavor.
+
+[18:45] So then, you know, Grant would do things like you know, vaporize sage, things like that, and get those kind of aromas. Uh and this this thing that apparently now, and I didn't even know this, so thanks Chip for bringing this to my attention, they have vaporizers that are are built on butane lighter technology that fit into your hand that are a whole hell of a lot cheaper than the volcano. Uh but they're fundamentally different technologies for making uh uh flavored, you know, aroma airs. One is combusting the material and the other one is held at a temperature below outright combustion. The theory of vaporization is that it it's going to provide cleaner flavors.
+
+[19:18] The theory when you're smoking it, right? Because they're both meant for pot. You're both supposed to smoke pot with them. Uh and the theory is is that you can get all the THC when you vaporize it without all kind of nasty tar and crap like that, because it's happening at a lower temperature, so you're not forming a lot of the nasty chemicals. May or may not be true.
+
+[19:32] I haven't read the science behind it, but they do, I know from experience uh um doing uh using using them for for cooking that they do produce different results because one's a lower temperature than the other. So they're not uh they're not identical. So uh you know, I I haven't done a lot of a super side by side, but I know that they're not equivalent items. One's more of smoker and the other one's more of kind of like a uh an aroma that slightly kind of combusted, smoky smelling, but not the same thing as outright smoke. Um so I'm interested in this.
+
+[20:02] I have a volcano. I haven't really used it because um I haven't thought of a culinary application that wouldn't make me feel like I was ripping uh grant off, but if I ever did, I would use it. I mean, it's a fine piece of equipment, and this portable thing also seems interesting. So I hope that has answered your question, Chip. And this brings us to our first break.
+
+[20:22] Cooking issues radio on the Heritage Radio Network. One, two, three, four! I don't care. I don't care. I just want the satisfying balls.
+
+[21:01] I got one. What your kiss me. When you mess me. Hold my head. Make me a decay.
+
+[21:46] Oh. I don't care. I'm about your won't. I just wanna. Yeah, you're about to do the don't.
+
+[22:06] I don't care. I'm about to win you treat me, darling. You understand me, Holly. Ow! When you kiss me.
+
+[22:34] Welcome back to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, Cooking Issues here with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, coming to you not live from the Bushwick block party on Sunday on Heritage Radio Network. Uh today's show, I don't know if I mentioned this before. Today's show is brought to you by the fine folks at uh Fairway, like no other market. So Fairway has, I think, three locations here uh in the New York area, as best of my knowledge.
+
+[22:58] They have the original one in the Upper West Side, which uh is you know a mob house because so many people want to go shop there. And then they have uh one that's uh up in Harlem that opened actually, I guess in the late 90s, mid-late 90s, back when I used to have my studio up there in uh art school, and man do we love shopping in that because they have a giant uh refrigerated uh ware you know warehouse where the the meat is stored, like the meat and the fish. And uh and I used to love that because I could just, you know, it I all of a sudden I didn't have to go walk the shop to get really good, you know, cheese and things like that. At the time it was really inexpensive. I haven't been back.
+
+[23:31] And then of course, they have the one near IKEA in Red Hook. So Fairway like no other market. Um okay. Now we have a question from uh Aaron Hart. So Aaron Hart uh uh was is particularly thinking about a couple of uh a couple of radio programs ago.
+
+[23:49] Uh I told someone who was just going back to college that what she should do is uh is use her microwave to achieve extraordinarily high temperatures uh so that she could uh sear things, right? And so uh, you know, for those of you that you know didn't hear it before, basically the the issue is is that uh you can get uh certain materials uh absorb microwaves, right? Water absorbs microwaves very well, which is why uh microwaves are uh you know they're you used, right? So they they choose a frequency that that absorbs uh water absorbs very well and things get hot. Now water can't get above boiling, right?
+
+[24:24] Unless it's under pressure, okay, get above boiling. So it kind of self-regulates. But there are other things that also absorb microwaves quite well. They can get way above the temperature of boiling water. And this is used by certain people to do things like uh s you know, melt low temperature metals using uh microwave absorbing crucibles in their in their micro rays, and this is entirely feasible.
+
+[24:45] Now, the uh uh a really easy to get material that absorbs microwaves fairly well is silicon carbide because that's what they make cut a lot of cutting stones out of, right? So you can just go buy uh uh one of these carbide uh silicon carbide uh cutting stones and throw it in your microwave. Please don't put it directly on the floor of your microwave because it will ruin your microwave. Put it on something that is insulating that can take the heat. And you nuke it.
+
+[25:09] Now, how long you have to nuke it depends on how how thick it is, but it can get really, really, really, really, really, really, really, really hot. Uh, you know, I I mentioned, I think, you know, another couple, you know, week or two ago that we, you know, cracked an egg onto one that we did, and it just, you know, instantly huge bubbles came up. It was a little too hot for the egg, so it overcooked the egg. Nastasha thought it was gross because it was a used cutting stone. You know how Nastasha gets about things once once she has a mental problem with it, it's all over, she actually can't do with it.
+
+[25:35] But Aaron wonders uh is it somehow possible to use this interaction to rig up a better than conventional oven for doing things like tandoori chicken or pizza? Well, that's an excellent question. Uh I would say yes and no. So the the pizza, the problem with you could clearly um get a uh a small stone for small pizza up to temperatures easily, easily up to temperatures required to do uh the floor of a pizza oven, right? So you're talking you're talking up in the 800 uh Fahrenheit range in that area easily.
+
+[26:09] Uh now the problem is that uh you have to also get the ceiling up to that, or you're just gonna light the bottom of the pizza on fire without cooking the top. And if you put two stones in there, it's gonna be almost impossible for you to determine uh, you know, to to kind of get the ratio right between heat from the top and heat from the bottom. I'm told, although I am not sure, right? Uh most things that are called combination microwave toaster ovens aren't really a combination microwave toaster oven. They're like a microwave and then a toaster oven.
+
+[26:39] But I believe there is one that has the heating elements uh the toaster heating elements in the same box as the microwave. If you had one of those suckers, you could put the thing in the bottom, heat the hell out of that rock till it got up to like 600 degrees, crank that toaster element up and you know to as high as that sucker will go, put your pizza into that thing and then rip the hell out of it and get it get it to you know uh get the bottom done and the top done at the at the same time. Another alternative would be if you had a broiler in a regular oven you could get your pizza stone in your microwave up to a zillion degrees put the thing on, cook the bottom of it, pull it out, flash it underneath the broiler for a while to get it done. This is the way Otto Otto is the restaurant here in New York City that makes pizzas part of the Batali Empire. And their style of pizza is to actually uh griddle uh griddle or grill uh I can't remember whether they use a griddle or a grill something like that.
+
+[27:26] Anyway, but they cook the bottom of the pizza first basically and you know cook the bread a little bit first then after they're done flash under a broiler with the with the toppings. I do this at home uh in the summertime when I make pizza because uh it doesn't heat up my kitchen as much when I crank my oven up to 800 degrees my kitchen gets extremely hot if I just have my uh crepe maker which is basically like a griddle and I flash cooked a pizza on both sides and then stick it under my salamander to finish out in a broil I don't think the results are as good as an oven that is you know really cranked out for pizza but it's uh it's pretty damn good. You know what I mean and and it doesn't heat up your your kitchen as much, so it's so it's definitely viable. Uh I hadn't thought about a Tandor, but that's kind of an interesting, interesting idea. Uh I bet you could.
+
+[28:10] The real problem is going to be, like I said, regulating heat from the top and heat from the bottom at the same time. And um, like I said, I don't think it's exactly the same to break it into two parts to first do the bottom on a hot rock, and then to do uh you know the top from uh from a broiler standpoint. But you know, maybe you could get it to work. What do you think? What do you think?
+
+[28:28] Um you know what I think. I don't know, I don't know. Maybe. I think I think you're thinking maybe. I don't know.
+
+[28:32] I think she's thinking she's not paying attention even at what's happening. No, I am, I am. Yeah. Uh so uh anyway. So I definitely think there's a lot to be a lot to be learned, uh a lot to be discovered um with uh with microwaves.
+
+[28:44] The trick is to get um a uh a cart silicon carbide piece that's the right size so you could cook something reasonable on it without uh having it be so thick that the majority of microwaves get absorbed into something that's not useful underneath the bottom, but at the same time that has enough retained energy such that when you stick a pizza or something onto it, that it gets it that real wallop that you want to get out of the stone uh stone oven. Uh you know, you also you can maybe do a thicker pizza than you could normally this way because if you kept the microwaves going while you're doing it, you'd also internally cook the uh the the bread a little bit while it was going. It might actually be really good technique. Nastasha, you can't see her, but she looks extremely uh unconvinced. I don't know.
+
+[29:21] I'm thinking about I have a fireplace at home behind my kitchen. Nastasha Nastasha's favorite thing is to rent apartments from people that have their fireplaces plugged up because the chimneys are unsafe because they haven't been cleaned in 8,000 years, to and then to make them functional again merely by ripping out the bricks that have been bricked over. She literally will invite any anyone, like any neighbor, anyone she meets within five blocks of her house, she'll buy a sledgehammer. Actually, she'll make them bring the sledgehammer, make them go buy the sledgehammer and bring it, and then for the pleasure of having her company, right, and and a beer or two, they will slay slay slavishly break open the old fireplace, and then she will uh use it again, like come hell or high water. True or false.
+
+[30:05] Yeah, but someday I want to cook in a fireplace. Yeah, me too. There's a couple of excellent books on fireplaces. I I don't even have a uh an old fireplace in my building because my building was built in the 50s. Um but yeah, you know, if I ever get a place out in the country, which I hope to do, if you know if if we can ever scrape two nickels together long enough to for my wife and I to go and get a place in the country, I will have a giant indoor outdoor kitchen with an outdoor outdoor on one side and fireplace on the other.
+
+[30:31] Huge freaking hearth. I mean, I can't wait. Someday it's gonna, you know, cooking with fire is great. You know, that's another thing. People think that because you cook uh with uh high tech all the time that you don't enjoy like all those other forms of cooking.
+
+[30:43] Those people are wrong. Right. They're dumb, dumb, dumb, dumb. Yeah, fire is delicious. Anyway, uh, and and by the way, going back to Tandor, I almost bought and put in my house a gas fire tandor.
+
+[30:58] Uh I didn't have the money at the time uh to put it in. It would have cost me probably a grand or something like that. I didn't have the money. But I was thinking of building one just by hand anyway, and then I realized that my wife already puts up with enough crap. And I would have had to get rid of something.
+
+[31:12] And you know, it would probably have been the fryer, and since frying is God's cooking technique, and fryer is the last thing on earth I would give up. Like the the fryer and a bathroom are the last two things I would give up in uh in my in my house, probably. And um, and so yeah, I just couldn't, I couldn't do it. But I I'm gonna bury I I'm gonna dig a hole in the ground. If I ever get a piece of ground for myself, I'm gonna dig a hole in the ground, put a tandoor in.
+
+[31:37] It's gonna be one of the very first things I do as part of the indoor outdoor kitchen. Because I think if everyone had a tandoor, everyone would just be a little happier, right? Right. Right. Let's go to break.
+
+[31:48] Okay, we'll go to break and we'll come back with the last segment of cooking issues. On the way you do it. On the way you do it. If I keep loving you, my life will be ruined. I've done got him.
+
+[32:15] I'll be running around. Got him. Look at him. Do you run and run? But do you know my thing?
+
+[32:27] I'm going up to town. Ow! Get it together. Get it together. Come here.
+
+[32:38] Get it together. Get it together. Oh! You decided you wanted. A brand new bag.
+
+[32:51] You said you wanted. Look at you. A brand new bag. But you, you were just diving. You want it to be a drag.
+
+[33:08] Welcome back to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network. Dave Arnold and Nastasha Lopez coming to you not live today, uh, answering your cooking questions. So let me get right into the last question we had emailed. It's actually a question and an answer. So we've had an ongoing uh kind of question with uh a friend of mine, Julio, who's actually a well-known fashion designer here in the city, and by the way, was uh uh is a good friend to Priscilla Morgan, who is amused to Isama Noguchi, and one of the people's part of the Batterberry friends, people I know through Michael Batterberry, uh and through Jonathan Marvel, an architect friend of mine.
+
+[33:42] Anyway, so uh long way in introduction. Anyway, he's interested. He is for some reason wants to uh reduce his caloric intake, even though the man uh looks uh looks great. He does not look at all uh fat, but he's worried about his caloric intake. And so he has a sweet tooth, and so he's been asking how to reduce uh um sugar content, especially in things like meringues.
+
+[34:04] And uh I should have thought of this kind of stuff right away, but because I'm uh dunce, I didn't. And um uh George uh uh Davidson called in and he said, or wrote in and said, I have an answer. Uh why not use maltodextrin to stabilize it? And uh that is excellent. I don't know what the hell I I was thinking uh to not say it.
+
+[34:24] That's an excellent uh suggestion. Uh George uh came up with this because uh his wife had gestational diabetes. You know, you know, for those of you that don't know a lot of women, uh not a lot, but you know, a certain percentage of women when they get uh pregnant get uh diabetes during the pregnancy and they and then they have issues with sugar. So maltodextrin, right? Uh what maltodextrin is is it you take starch, uh which is a bunch of repeating glucose units, and you break it up into smaller uh units.
+
+[34:55] And so the maltodextrins are uh, you know, they're like you know, several glucose glucoses long. They're like uh, I don't know, like eight, ten, six, eight, ten glucoses long, right? So the the more glucoses are in a row in uh maltodextrin, the bigger they are, the less taste they have. So uh the shorter they get, like like three glucoses for they start tasting sweet, right? So uh and two glucoses together is called maltose, right?
+
+[35:25] So, and then one glucose is called glucose. Anyway, so uh basically maltodextrins are these things that are kind of like, you know, they're not long chain things, like starch is like, you know, hundreds, thousands of of uh glucose long, and um uh maltodextrins are much shorter and they're usually very bland. Sometimes they're sweet, depends on which one you get, and uh they can be derived from any kind of starch, tapioca starch, corn starch, rice, blah, blah, blah, blah, it doesn't matter, right? But they all have extremely different uh physical properties, which is why you have to be uh careful. So, for instance, one of the one of the applications, people will always say, Hey, uh, Dave, I want to use tapioca maltodextrin to uh make uh oils into powders, right?
+
+[36:08] And we hear this a lot. Yes, yes, I hear this a lot. Yes. Don't ever say that, right? Tapy saying like tapioca maltodextrin is like saying, Hey, I need to do something.
+
+[36:18] I need some sort of vehicle on wheels that rolls. Do you need uh like a flexible flyer wagon? Or do you need like a Hummer? You know what I mean? Like because like like they're very different in properties, right?
+
+[36:31] So for instance, the tapioca maltodextrin that you use to turn powders into oils is something called uh and sorbet and I think from the National Starch Corporation, and it's a very specific uh uh maltodextrin made from tapioca that uh is extremely not dense, right? It's extremely uh has a very, very high volume, uh very low density. And so they use it as a bulking agent. But the reason they can turn oils into powders is because um when you put uh a starch, right, is basically a big helix, right? Just like DNA is a double helix, it's a heel is a single helix, it's a helix.
+
+[37:09] And the inside of that helix hates water, hates it, hydrophobic, right? Uh but likes oil. So oil can go on the inside of that uh starch helix, right? Uh but on the the outside of that uh loves water, right? And that's why these this maltodextrin can uh that is heli helical like a starch, that's why the maltodextrin dissolves in water so well and why it you know dissolves in your palate, uh on your mouth so well.
+
+[37:34] So uh what happens if what happens is that you uh put the oil in, the oil goes into the inside of the uh helix, but because the maltodextrin has such a high uh you know, so so not dense, it's so fluffy, that then it can basically fluff out and stay separate, and you have this kind of powdery oil. But as soon as you put this stuff in your mouth, right, it goes instantly, dissolves back, and there's very little actual material there. So, like a bag of, you know, a bag of of a pound of maltodextrin, uh, tapioca maltodextrin or a kilo of it, it's like you know, like the size of a beanbag chair. It's crazy, you know what I mean? It's so not dense, and that's basically what it does.
+
+[38:14] Now, um the reason this helps you uh it be it it's you can digest it, so it has calories, like a starch, the same number of calories per gram, but typically for usage you use far fewer grams because it bulks up very well, and so you won't use as much. So you can actually get a reduced caloric intake by uh by using it. Now, if you're diabetic, this is a great thing to use because um it doesn't have any sort of insulin problems. So what he was doing for his wife was uh using uh a tapioca maltodextrin presumably not ensorbit he doesn't specify which one and saccharin as a sweetener but you could use anything uh that you know is uh safe for diabetics as a sweetener and he uses um he uses uh what does he use he he doesn't say how much yeah he uses sweetened low but he doesn't say how much maltodextrin he uses um but the the whole advantage is that you can use a lot less maltodextrin. Maltodextrin is also good uh anytime you want to add bulk to something so another kind of meringue that we make at the school actually quite a lot is made uh with something called um uh my brain's on on on fried today because I'm listening to this music from the Bushwick Block Party.
+
+[39:22] But uh it's uh it's called methylcellulose and methylcellulosis uh I always like to say that all the hydrocolides we use are all 100% natural this is the one that kind of isn't uh it's uh it's it's not natural. I mean it's not like I always say it's not a natural but I don't think it's ungodly right it's basically a modified cellulose product that's not found in nature. But it has the very interesting property that it gels when it's heated and also it it can act certain of them. The one we use is methylcel F like Frank 50 uh like Hawaii 5O F50 and uh basically it is a good whipping agent. So we use it when we're making meringues that we don't want to add uh egg white to right so they're basically you don't have to add the egg white is a is a protein so it it it's a whipping agent but it also forms the structure of the meringue uh of the of these mering like I'm making little quote marks I don't know how to say it, meringue, you know.
+
+[40:16] Uh and so what we can do is we can basically take f pure fruit um pureees and then we and that are bulked up by uh having a lot of uh pectin in them, having a lot of solids from the fruit, and then uh we usually add sugar for taste, but you could add anything to it, you wouldn't need to add sugar for taste, uh, because the sugar's not such a structural component in these meringues. Then we add uh methyl cellulose, which we use as a whipping uh agent, and then um uh we whip them up and they uh and then you dehydrate them and they're like a meringue. They're fantastic. The only problem is they don't really uh last outside too long because they suck up moisture, they're very hydro high hygroscopic. Anyway, but uh if there's not enough uh bulking agent uh in the product, like if you're doing let's say nori or something, it's something that doesn't have a lot of stuff to it, you can put maltodextrin in as the bulking agent.
+
+[41:06] So you have any sort of maltodextrin in there, uh usually along with xanthan to make it a little thicker, and then uh methyl cellulose, uh and you whip it like a meringue, you pipe it and you dehydrate it, and it's eats just like a meringue, but you can have extremely low sugar volumes. And and actually this is kind of something that I endorse. I normally like I say I don't endorse necessarily removing products just to reduce their caloric intake, um, but you know, we can do this and we can get really interesting flavor results. And that's why I think it's kind of an interesting an interesting um thing to do. Uh you know, so uh what do you think?
+
+[41:39] You think we finally answered this question or have we not? I think so. Well we'll we'll find out the week after. We'll find out the week after. Okay.
+
+[41:46] I think you know, but but okay, so the second part of the uh this was a a comment uh s thank you, and and a question. And the question was uh he's interested in making uh habanero vodka because we've been discussing um we've been discussing habanero vodka for a while. Uh and he said um, how long will it last? And do you think it would do well in a vodka cream sauce? And he then also, why do vodka cream sauce recipes tell you to reduce the vodka?
+
+[42:11] When I say reduce the vodka, not make less of it, but to put it in the pan, flash it off, right? This is pointless vodka's pure ethanol or ethanol and water, actually, and reducing it just removes some. Why not add it near the end and reduce the amount? And do you think this makes a difference flavor-wise? Well, that's an excellent question.
+
+[42:25] I will answer the first one because I know the answer. When you use a habanero uh to make a vodka, if you were using green habaneros, the flavor I think will be fairly stable. If you are, I don't use green habaneros. If you are using uh red habaneros, um the flavor, in my my experience, and my experience has not been with infused uh habanero, it's been with distilled habanero. My experience has been the stable the flavor is unstable.
+
+[42:53] Uh it that it's pretty good for a couple of months. And it's not that it goes bad, it goes green. So after you know, six months, a year, when you taste it, it's no longer gonna taste like that amazing floral fruity habanero that you're used to. It's gonna taste closer to um it's gonna definitely taste greener, right? And it's gonna, and I don't know why, and it's definitely going to taste it's some people say it tastes more like uh jalapeno at that point.
+
+[43:18] You've tasted it, right, Styas? Yeah. Yeah. And so um that's what happens. But you're you you've got a good couple of months if you keep it in the freezer, you got a good couple of months out of it before it starts to go on you.
+
+[43:28] We've also never stored it at extremely high proofs. We stored it basically at um 100 proof at about 50 percent, and that's been uh our experience. It does work well in sauces. I have used it in sauces, and the flavor really comes through in a sauce. It's really a great way to add habanero.
+
+[43:44] Well, with the way we do it, it's got the habanero aroma, but not the capsacean, not the spiciness. And so it's a great way to add habanero flavor to something like a sauce without um without adding a lot of spice. Uh, I don't know why the hell you would reduce uh the vodka when you put in. You're not getting rid of the alcohol, obviously, when you're boiling it, you're getting rid of some alcohol. Like, you know, some people think you boil all the alcohol away, and that's not the case.
+
+[44:05] You boil some away. I don't know why you would add more and then reduce it to get rid of some of the ethanol, because I would guess that the you know it's not like um it's not like in a uh in a situation with uh where you put alcohol in a batter to reduce the gluten formation or something like that. I mean, presumably it's there just to uh increase the volatile release of you know aroma wise, I would guess, although I haven't done a lot of research on it. So I would think that adding a smaller amount later would probably do the same thing. I'm guessing, but that's a guess.
+
+[44:38] Um and I'm sure I'll get some emails telling me why that is uh completely wrong. But anyway, I hope that answered that question. So let me see, to finish out some other interesting stuff. We just did a party. How many days ago is that?
+
+[44:51] Two uh two. Two days ago. We did a yeah, Vogue uh Vogue magazine, Jeffrey Steingarten, who was on this program, uh basically is uh friends with uh Dave Chang, convinced Dave Chang to do this party for Vogue for fashion's fashion week night out, some I don't know. Fashions night out. Some sort of yeah, some sort of show.
+
+[45:10] Anyway, and uh and so and then somehow we got roped into doing a cocktail for it. And Dave had on his clean black shirt. Yeah, I put on my I put on my special, my special Vogue fashion clean clean black t shirt uh to serve these drinks. But anyway, so uh we might do a we might do a version of this for the uh Heritage Radio. If the peaches aren't good, we might yeah, so it's Concord grape, uh clarified the way we clarified it.
+
+[45:33] The problem with Concord Grapes is uh Concorde grapes uh they're delicious, but if you are too aggressive when you're getting the juice out of them, you uh crush the seeds and they take on a uh uh a bitter note. So you have to kind of do a good job crushing, but then you also want to get really good extraction. So we um we first put it through an ice crusher and then we put them uh along with uh our uh uh SPL, which is our pectin breaking down enzyme, put that which you can contain from cooking issues dot com, uh, and then we put it into our chocolate grinder, but we set the chocolate grinder up high so that it wouldn't crush the seeds. So it was just smashing them and then we spun them in the centrifuge. Then we added uh the we added lemon juice and uh maple syrup and we chilled that sucker with liquid and some water, uh not a lot, but some.
+
+[46:16] Uh and uh, you know, that was delicious. Good. Yeah. That was a delicious product. We use rye whiskey in that one, but we we'd be using maker's mark in this next, so we'd probably have to change the recipe a bit.
+
+[46:25] But that was that was a a delicious, delicious product. And even though uh, you know, they it was like we we sold those drinks, what we pour, like four hundred drinks in like an hour or something like that. Yeah, and uh we sold out. So if you came to that event and you didn't get one of the drinks, I heartily apologize. Uh and let me see, talk about your new Macy machine, please.
+
+[46:47] Oh, all right. So Well, let me preface it by saying that everyone thinks Dave is very fun. Like really and you are really fun. But you're also the cheapest man alive. So uh well, about some things I could not possibly be cheaper.
+
+[47:00] For instance, um I will not take a cab unless what I'm carrying Well, not even. I was gonna say not even carry it. My legs are not broken. I'm not I don't see why I'm gonna take a cab. Like when I come out to here, I don't take the subway because that costs two dollars and fifty cents, so I t or whatever it is.
+
+[47:16] So I bike out here to Brooklyn because my legs are not broken. Why would I do that? Anyway, so the uh uh so Mark Ladner from Del Posto, who by the way is you know great guy, Mark Ladner, we all love Mark Ladner from Del Posto restaurant here in uh New York City, basically uh donated to Nastasha really. I had nothing to do with it. But right?
+
+[47:35] I mean, let's be honest here. You know what I mean? Uh donated to Nastasha, the this uh old vacuum machine from Del Posto that it's like no well, it's like you know, it's like halfway working. It's almost working. Yeah.
+
+[47:46] Right? Yeah. So anyway, she donated to the French Culinary Institute. And I'm like, a vacuum machine. How you know?
+
+[47:51] He's like, you know, you're gonna need to get a truck. I'm like, truck, what the fuck? Truck. Truck. This thing is about half the size of Dave and weighs like 500 pounds.
+
+[47:59] Yeah, anyways. So I show up and look at it, I'm like, oh geez. Because the problem is like it'd be hard to lift into a truck without a lift gate. So this is becoming, you know, and you know, Del Posto is on like what? 16th.
+
+[48:11] 16th and like basically the river. It's about Hudson River. Three miles away from the school. No. Yes.
+
+[48:16] Come on. It was like two and a half. Anyways, so I'm like, to hell with it. I'm not gonna pay for a damn truck to come pick up this thing and move it when my legs are not broken. So that picture on the blog that Nastasha posted, in case anyone's wondering, was you know, I am that guy who's dumb enough to push the damn vacuum machine from Del Posto to the French Culinary Institute on the hottest day of the year.
+
+[48:42] Uh and uh, you know, here's the thing, right? It's like it i this is how I get things done. You know, that that you know, it's like uh, you know, when I was in school, I you know, I needed something, I dunno I jumped into a dumpster, I would get it. You know what I mean? When I when I need to do something, I I get on eBay and you know you find it for the cheapest possible price just because I've never had enough money to to do things, you know, in a non-ghetto way.
+
+[49:08] And um and I've always been willing to spend more time and energy than I probably should to do things. Uh I have since met some people who have not done it that way and are much more efficient. Uh so maybe, you know, in the future, look for us to be uh less stupid. But yeah, on the other hand, being stupid this way and cheap has you know, for whatever it's worth, gotten me know where I am. What?
+
+[49:33] It's endearing a little bit. My extreme cheapness? Yeah. Well, it's good that, you know, the the the Scottish blood in me brings my extreme cheapness and is is I'm glad it's at least somewhat endearing. It can be a pain in the butt, uh, especially for you know people like my wife who has to deal with uh my extraordinary cheapness.
+
+[49:53] Uh but you know, like I say, sometimes and I'm not cheap when it comes to I buy the best ingredients, all right? I buy the best ingredients. I'm not cheap about that. So it's weird. Like my wife is mad because I spend uh a ton of money on food because I'm not gonna buy food that I think is substandard.
+
+[50:06] Um which doesn't mean snobby. That's I think a big problem. Like people think that food in you know, the it's it's between like some effete bastard who only cares about spending a lot of money on their food, and between somebody who, you know, just buys crap and doesn't care. They don't you know, there's a lot of people out there, and I think this is the word everyone needs to spread about food, about what's going on with food now. It's just not about it's not about being a food snob, it's not about outspending the person next to you or getting the rarest ingredient or anything like that.
+
+[50:32] Even though I you know I deal professionally, I deal in the rarefied world of high-tech cooking. And it that a lot of that is really expensive, right? So people think that what we're doing is elitist, and well, okay, the stuff that I do for a living kind of necessity is because it's a very like very niche high-tech food, but that's not the way that doesn't mean that's the only thing that's that good food is, right? Or the only thing that I enjoy doing. Uh, you know, I think that we all need to step back and make sure that whatever we're doing, we're never being food snobs because I think you know that's not that way doesn't lie the the the best food for the for the most amount of people which is I think what we're shooting at.
+
+[51:10] And then I will leave you on this note. Heritage Foods and you know Pat Patrick Heritage Foods uh is uh interested and has been talking with us about reviving an idea uh you know had a while ago uh for a food museum in uh in New York and so look for he's starting to put people working on it right Stas yes and so look for look for in a couple of years look for that to finally actually happen uh and that uh that's gonna be you know I think the best because we're gonna be focused uh specifically on making sure that it's not about just uh elitist food or just snobby food we've got to show people that good food is for everyone fair way fair way like no other market that was cooking issues thanks for listening we'll be back live next time
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+[0:16] Hello, welcome to Cooking Issues Radio on the Heritage Radio Network. I'm Dave Arnold, the host of Cooking Issues here with Nastasha Lopez, Cooking Issues Hammer. And we are coming live to you every Tuesday from 12 to 1245. Call in with all of your cooking related questions. Call in live to 718-497-2128.
+
+[0:39] That's 718-497-2128. And today's show is brought to you by the Whole Foods Market and the Kraft Beer Festival, which is coming up starting, I guess, Friday, right? It's a whole week of craft beer stuff. And to kick off the annual series, the Whole Foods Market Bowery is hosting a beer and food pairing event at their beer room. Oscar Blues is on tap, and Chef Jacques Gautier of Park Slopes Palo Santos cooking up one of his South American delights to a company.
+
+[1:04] The food tasting goes from 5 to 7, and the beer will continue till 9 with Kraft Beer Week Passports. Get $3 off, 64 ounce Growler Phill. That's quite a lot of beer. And meet Chef Gautier on Friday, September 24th, and enjoy some special tastes on tap from the kitchen. By the way, uh that's right by my house, actually.
+
+[1:20] The uh the Whole Foods Bowery is right by my house where I live in the lower east side of Manhattan. And uh I was happy to see that very recently they have actually a homebrew section there, and I think it's the only place that I know of in Manhattan where you can walk in and buy malt and yeast and uh all the stuff for homebrew. So cheers to you, Whole Foods for making homebrew accessible to uh us Manhattanites. Um I haven't brewed beer since I was uh since since right before my second son was born, and then my wife was like, hey, you know what? It's already a mess in the damn house.
+
+[1:51] You got two kids, no more beer brewing. Because of course, when I brew beer, like I can't just be like a normal human being and use extracts. Like I, you know, I have full, you know, full malt, you know, I ground it all in my house as a you know, it's a it's a freaking mess. Delicious, but a freaking mess. Anyway, call in your questions to 718 497 2128.
+
+[2:09] That's 718 497 2128. So Nastasha, it's uh been a busy uh week, right, for the Cookie Issues crew, uh, which is why you haven't seen much on the blog recently because we've been uh super busy. We're in the middle of Star Chef's Week, which uh, you know, is a uh yearly uh convention uh of uh chefs, I guess. Wait, what do you think? Star Chefs?
+
+[2:27] Yes anyway, at the armory uh on the east side of Manhattan, and uh you know, a lot of the uh glitterati of the food world show up for three days and hang out, and we we did a cocktail event yesterday, which was good. We have another cocktail event this afternoon and another one tomorrow. Another one tomorrow. And then coming up on Saturday, and there are I think believe only 20 tickets left. We are doing a cocktail for the Heritage Radio Network's uh yearly fundraising barbecue, the Heritage Radio Party here at Roberta's Pizza in Brooklyn.
+
+[2:57] And if you want to get one of those last remaining tickets, they're a hundred dollars a pop. You can email info at heritage radio network.com. That's info at heritage radio network dot com. Okay, now uh let's uh look for some questions. We have some email questions while we're waiting to see if we get any callers.
+
+[3:13] Don Rollins writes in and he said he just uh now listened to uh one of our previous shows, and there was a question we answered about vodka in sauces. And he says that Alton Brown mentioned, I suppose, on the uh on the what's it what's his Good Eats, right? Good on his Good Eats show, uh, that tomatoes contain several compounds that are soluble in alcohol, but not in water or oil. And adding alcohol to a tomato sauce brings out more of its essential tomato-ness based on that fact. Well, uh, Don, I uh did some research early this morning.
+
+[3:40] Uh, and there are many, many references on the internet to that being the case, to there being an alcohol, like uh certain uh principles in the tomato that are more soluble in alcohol, uh, but I was not able to find any specific technical reference that uh bore that out. Now it is true that uh alcohol is going to change the release uh like alcohol in in uh in your in your product is gonna change the release of volatiles from it and therefore uh change the uh you know the flavor impact of the sauce. And I was able to find several technical references to that. There's also some mention on some sites um of alcohol actually reacting with uh the tomato uh you know with the actual tomato to to produce flavorful components that were not there before. So those are you know some possible things, but I don't have any ironclad evidence that I I could find, you know, a scientific paper that said, hey, look, here's what's going on.
+
+[4:36] I do though have a text into Harold McGee. So if he gets back to me on uh on the question of uh tomato sauce and vodka and whether there's anything uh more complicated going on, I will relay it to you next week. Um Jake Andrews writes in to uh Nastasha and says uh he wants to know whether anyone uh my iPad just died. No, he wants to know uh he got taken on eBay with an older poly science poly temp circulator that is missing the thermometer to control the bath. Is there anything he can do or is he shafted?
+
+[5:06] Well, uh I really, you know, I sympathize with you. I had my first kind of uh eBay shellacking recently where I bought a piece of equipment, a refractometer, actually, an automatic refractometer thing is would be crazy awesome because it measures basically uh the ref any any you know the refractive index of almost anything. It'll do bricks zero up to you know in the 90s automatically, uh, you know, automatic temperature concentrates. I could put a f a flow-through device on it so that I can measure things as I'm producing them, so I can measure alcohol content as as I'm distilling. It has user uploadable software profiles where I can upload.
+
+[5:41] Anyway, it should be like a $5,000 piece of equipment. I bought it for $100 on eBay and said it was working, but guess what? It wasn't. And the company, uh, I'm not going to mention Reichert by name, but they were not at all helpful to me. Uh, you know, they wouldn't even help me troubleshoot.
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+[5:55] I think there's a problem with the EEPROM, which is the chip that you know loads the software into it because hardware-wise it seemed okay. But they wouldn't even like open their mouths to tell me like what to look at, so uh shellact. Now, you're lucky in the one sense that poly science is not like this. I did a quick search on Polytemp. I don't have the actual model.
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+[6:11] Oh, and for those of you that don't know what the hell we're talking about. Immersion circulators are uh pieces of equipment that are becoming more and more common in kitchens today uh that very, very accurately control the temperature of liquid. They used to be lab equipment, but now they're basically used in kitchens for low temperature cooking. And Philip Preston from PolyScience just released the first kitchen model uh you know a couple of months ago that's specifically designed for kitchen. It's not just a piece of lab equipment, it's a piece of kitchen equipment.
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+[6:35] Anyway, they're great. I use it, I use it every day. It's the party machine, it's the brunch machine. Like if you ever have a party or throw a brunch, uh, this kind of equipment, you know, you should look into it. Anyway, you can see it on our website or go to polyscience.com.
+
+[6:47] Anywho, uh Philip is not a huge fan of you going out and buying used equipment because he wants to sell new equipment, and also uh because he says he doesn't know what happened to the equipment back in the day. The other problem is I've I've worked on many of these eBay things that you know, in in the past eight years, I've maybe had um or ten years, I've had uh I don't know, 10, twelve ones off of eBay. Uh and a lot of the older models break because they've been used in laboratories for a long, long time. The bearings tend to go bad on them. Uh you tend to have corrosion on the internal contacts, which leads to resistance and overheating on the internal parts.
+
+[7:21] Um so there are issues with the older ones. I'm assuming if it's older, it's analog. The good news is if you can get it to work, the analog ones are fairly accurate once you set them. You just need to get uh a separate thermocouple to monitor digitally what's going on. Now the problem is is that you don't have a temperature probe on it.
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+[7:36] Now, I did some research and it appears that some of the older poly science circulators have uh what's called uh a thermocouple basically, uh, which is easy to source. The newer ones all use uh platinum RTDs, which also are not difficult to source or to wire. So what I would do is contact uh either give me the model number or contact poly science directly and ask them what type of uh what type of probe that unit has. And any one of those probes is very easy to source via eBay or McMaster car. Not that you want to necessarily source on eBay again after you got shafted, but uh anyway, they're fairly easy to source.
+
+[8:12] So you just need to find out exactly what it is that you need to get uh and then make a determination as to whether or not it's worthwhile. First of all, you should fire it up, make sure the motor's still working, you know, make sure the electronics still come on. Uh anyway, I hope I hope this helps. Um one of our people from our Sous vide class last week, which is the reason why we, you know, couldn't be here live last week, Matt, uh, wrote in and he said um he he has actually has a restaurant uptown in my old neighborhood, uh up uh 109th or 10th, 108th called SIP. And uh check it out if you're up there.
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+[8:45] I haven't made it made it up there yet, but I intend to. Um so he's wondering whether we ever tried to carbonate lic uh liquor. You everyone who knows me personally knows that I carbonate nothing but liquor, basically, liquor and and water. I don't uh I don't I like everything with bubble most everything I like with bubbles in it, right, Nastasha? Yes.
+
+[9:01] Mm-hmm. Yeah, bubbles. Borbujas. Anyway, I like bubbles a lot. So his question is uh have we ever tried to carbonate in an old uh fashion soda water container uh because he wants to put it behind his bar because he thinks it's you know it because they do look cool.
+
+[9:13] It's not because he thinks they look cool, they do look cool. Uh and he's actually gonna make a uh he's gonna make a an infused liquor um based on like uh pepper and tomato, and he wants to carbonate. Now, uh whether or not it's feasible to use these old bottles depends on what you mean by old bottles. So so roughly you can divide into two different categories. One is the kind that take chargers on them, like and and two uh sorry, CO2 chargers.
+
+[9:36] And these are kind of the the older variety home units um that glass with a metal cage around, uh, you know, EC made them, a K I S I or whatever you want to call them. Uh a number of other manufacturers used to be made a lot in Czechoslovakia, very thick glasses. And these ones can be used to uh carbonate. The problem with them is is that they're it's very hard to get a very good level of carbonation. First of all, liquor is going to require uh more CO2 than water, and it's hard to get the head space out uh of the top of the uh of the unit.
+
+[10:05] So what I recommend is if you're gonna use one of those with two charge, you have to use two chargers. And what you do is make sure your liquor is super, super cold, right? Super cold. If you have a vacuum machine, de-aerate it first to get rid of some of the air. If you don't, don't worry about it, because you're gonna go to the second step.
+
+[10:20] You're gonna put your liquor in, make sure you always fill it to the exact same level every time. This way you know your recipe is gonna work. Changing the level of liquid in the bottle is gonna change the amount of carbonation you have each time, okay? So make sure it's just the same every time. Make sure the temperature of the liquid is the same every time, as cold as possible.
+
+[10:36] Then uh put a CO2 cart uh cartridge in, swirl it to get it all dissolved, and then vent it so that it foams up and so you lose uh f sorry, apologize. Turn it upside down so that the the actual uh siphons, these old seltzer siphons have a uh a rod which goes down to the bottom so that when you press it, the pressure forces the liquid up through the rod and out the nozzle, right? When you're venting, you have to turn the seltzer siphon upside down so that you're venting the gas and not the product out. Otherwise you're gonna be in for a terrible mess. Anyway, so turn the thing upside down, vent out the gas.
+
+[11:10] That's gonna get rid of the air uh in that's still trapped on the inside. Uh and it's also gonna get rid of a lot of what's called the nucleation sites, which cause excess bubbling, right? So that's the key step, turning it upside down and venting it. Then turn it right side up, put another charger into it, shake it, and chill it, and you should have a good product. Now, if you mean by old seltzer bottles, the kind that the seltzer man delivers on a truck or woman, I guess, but typically they were seltzer men, delivers uh uh on a uh delivers on a truck, like three stooges style, and you have a little lever and you squeeze them and you spray your buddy in the face or put out a fire or whatever.
+
+[11:43] Uh no, that one is much more difficult to fill. They they don't take a charger and they don't unscrew. Those are actually the the tops are left on them and they are washed and filled uh by a machine by actually you you squeeze the the nozzle like you squeeze the lever like you were going to uh spray seltzer out of it, and then a machine squeezes a nozzle and fills it without taking the top off. So I've considered for several years actually building something to do that, but I haven't done it, and it's not a trivial process. So until and I didn't see anyone on the internet, until someone works out like a super slick uh do it yourself way of refilling those old old seltzer bottles, I would not try to get one of those.
+
+[12:22] Although it's always been a project that I've been interested in. It's just just too much too many projects in too little time. That's true. I saw a lot at flea markets, and I was gonna get you one. Yeah, well also if you're gonna do it, uh get one with a metal mesh around it because you know if someone nicks one of those old glasses and you're inflating it up to 60 PSI or so, I mean, those were built for 120 PSI, but who knows?
+
+[12:39] You know what I mean? I don't want it to shatter and explode glass all over you, and then you say, Hey, Dave Arnold's gonna be okay to use it. Anyway, uh that's not the okay. Oh, so we have a caller. Hello, caller.
+
+[12:50] How are you doing? Hi, I'm fine, how are you? Doing well. Okay, I have a question. It's about chicken.
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+[12:55] Because I cook chicken thighs all the time, and it seems like no matter how I cook them, they come out wonderfully and everyone thinks they're great. But whenever I cook chicken breasts or chicken cutlets or even a whole chicken, it just seems like the chicken breasts are never that tasty and they're often dry, and especially the next day. Like the next day you can heat up a stew with chicken thighs and it's really good and even better. But whenever I try to heat up chicken breasts the next day, they're even drier. So I just wondered if you have any tips.
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+[13:22] Well, first of all, you are correct. Uh the chicken thighs are inherently superior to chicken breasts. And I do not know what kind of marketing nonsense has convinced the majority of Americans that somehow white meat chicken is superior to dark meat chicken. It's insane. It's insanity.
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+[13:39] The the thigh is inherently has more taste, has possibly it's more fat and connective tissue. It's gonna stay more moist and has a higher tolerance to uh overcooking than the breast meat does. I mean, that's just straight up fact. Okay. Uh and uh uh breast meat in like a typical American chicken doesn't have as much flavor as you'd like.
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+[14:00] But you know, here is here's some things. I mean, do you brine the breasts? No, but that's a that's a good thought. Yeah, here's here's the thing. So when you brine the breast, two things are happening.
+
+[14:09] Or or I've brine both, but if you brine the breast with uh I usually uh make uh some uh like a even you could just do water solution till it's uh salty, tasty like salty, almost like ocean salty, and then you add sugar until it just gets sweet, and what you're doing is is by adding that salt, you are changing uh the amount of water that the muscle can uh hold on to, right? So it seems counterintuitive that because when you add salt, usually you're drawing moisture out. But when when the salt gets into the meat, it's actually changing the amount of moisture that the meat can hold on to when it cooks, and it gives you a couple couple extra degrees of temperature before the meat dries out. And it'll also appear moisture when it's when it's cooled down. Um the the other, you know, obviously you want to be careful not to overcook the breast.
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+[14:52] If you cook the breast separately from the thigh, it's easier. Um, but um that that the main thing is the brining. Also, the brining is going to increase the salt level on the inside of the meat, which is going to increase the flavor of that meat, make it a little less inherently flavorless, you know. Um so you win two times with that. Uh you know, if you have an immersion circulator, that is a spot on way to to do you know, the piece of equipment we were just talking about.
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+[15:17] It's a spot on way to cook it, because then you can cook a chicken breast to like 63, 64 Celsius, and when it cools down, it's super juicy and the texture is just right. But I personally I think it's hard to uh you know, using traditional cooking techniques to achieve a uh a good uh uh chicken breast that's good as a cold preparation the next day. Uh you know, that's why we tend to chop it up and toss it with mayonnaise. Do you know what I mean? Okay, yeah, that makes sense.
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+[15:43] That's what I always do. Yeah, I mean that's delicious too. I mean, don't get me wrong. I mean, I love chicken salad. Who mean I mean, you know, we grew up on that stuff.
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+[15:49] I love chicken salad, but um so I don't know whether I've been helpful. You probably make it with homemade mayonnaise, right? Uh, you know, I wish I could say that's true, but I like but y there's certain things that you grow up with in life and you just tend to like them, and one of them is I like store-bought mayonnaise. I hate to say it. I just uh poaching chicken breasts.
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+[16:10] I mean, that's sort of something we all grew up with too. Right. Well, uh poaching chicken breasts, you know, there's a there's a couple of I I used to do it quite a lot. I've you know, Jacques Popin came out with a cookbook in the eighties, and he has a chicken salad uh recipe, poached chicken recipe that he attributes to Danny Kay, the famous uh actor was also, I believe a conductor and and a fine, fine cook. Uh and um he used a technique where he would put it into uh water, although I would use broth, right?
+
+[16:37] And then you can uh raise you you raise the temperature till it just comes to the boil, and then you cover it and then you let the the heat ride out. Now it's no way an accurate cooking technique, but it's a variation on a cooking technique that has been used for millennia. For instance, hams used to be cooked that way in a five-gallon uh uh lard container. Uh you would, you know, you you would heat the water up in the lard, put the ham in, close it and then wrap it up, and let the carry overheat. And the theory is is that the carry overheat's gonna be enough to cook it, but the temperature is gonna drop enough that it's not gonna horribly overcook the meat by the time it's done.
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+[17:10] So I used to fill up a uh you know, like a pot of water and put, you know, uh a pot with uh some you know vegetables and uh and you know, if you had some broth or stock, you could put it in, and then chicken breasts, I would also use thighs, bring it up to the just the simmer, close it and let it ride out, and you get two things. You get a nice broth and you get some nice chicken meat that's good for a cold salad because it was not overcooked but cooked in water, so it didn't lose uh or cooked in moisture, so it didn't lose a lot of uh uh a lot of um, you know, a lot of it's it's not dry. So uh and that's uh you know, attributable to Danny Kay through Jacques Papin, if that's helpful. Well, that's really helpful. Thank you so much.
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+[17:49] Hey, thanks for listening. Okay, take care. Bye. Did you take a break, Dave? Oh, uh, and I'm told that we are coming on to our first commercial break.
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+[17:55] This is cooking issues that uh cooking issues radio on Heritage Radio Network. 718 497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. I want to get on the good foot. I got a kid on the food foot.
+
+[18:15] Going down to the three, and let all hang out. Going down, and let it all hang out. Where's so button? Where people can find a big And hear the music five band. The dance and on the good foot.
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+[18:44] I got the weather on the food foot. I got the boo it on the good foot. Do it with the good foot. Say the whole meeting back, all get together, all these tracks, and they put it good foot. But the winter spin.
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+[19:13] That's on my bad boy. You know my face getting short, and it got some booze. I got a fucking job in the face and news on the good foot. Welcome back to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network where we answer your cooking questions at 718-497-2128. 718-497-2128.
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+[20:07] Okay, so Michael Griffiths from Philadelphia is a follower of the blog. Thank you so much. And uh he called in because he has having a problem with uh some seafood sausages he's making and because they added ginger to them, and he says they they didn't come out the same, and he's pretty sure that the ginger reacted uh he thinks with the eggs and messed it up. He said because he also has put uh um ginger into consume and he couldn't get the raft when you're c when you're clarifying uh when you're clarifying things, you add you traditionally you add an egg white raft, and the protein along with whatever ground-up lean meat you put in helps hold on to the uh the tur what makes it turbid, the turbidity, and uh helps clarify the stock over time. It's the actual the proteins are charged and they actually hold on to um they hold on to the stuff that's making it cloudy.
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+[20:50] And he's saying he thinks it's the ginger that's uh messing it up, and what the hell is going on? Now uh I don't actually know that it's the egg white specifically that's uh having a problem with the ginger. It might actually be the meat and the binding of the muscle proteins together because ginger uh well, you know, it's a well well known uh enzyme in ginger is uh uh there's a protease enzyme in it. And I believe the name of it, although I could be wrong, is and I don't know how to pronounce anything, is zingibane, zingibane. And that's a uh uh you know a protease enzyme that's gonna break things down and it's used as a meat tenderizer.
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+[21:26] And in fact, uh, you know, it's it's you know just as effective, if not more effective, than papayine and you know, all these other commercial meat tenderizers. So ginger juice is a well-known uh has been a well-known uh tenderizer uh, I believe since antiquity. So, you know, it does contain protease enzymes, and that's gonna mess up your raft and might also mess up your sausage. You could cook the ginger, but then uh uh uh beforehand that would um that would you know wipe out the enzyme uh but might change the flavor of the ginger, but these things are being cooked anyway. So if you I think if you pre-cook the ginger, you're not gonna have a uh a problem.
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+[22:00] An interesting recipe to look up uh that has to do with uh ginger and proteins is uh a Chinese uh dessert called uh ginger milk curd, where they basically they take uh uh milk and they add ginger and it causes it to curdle and set. Um so this is a uh is a well-known and interesting fact. Thanks for you know uh calling our attention to it. And another interesting thing I looked, I was looking at the technical literature on on uh ginger enzymes. And uh ginger enzymes, uh, you know, zingibane or whatever it's called, is uh very effective specifically at collagen, at breaking down connective tissue uh as opposed to it it seems to have a higher affinity for that uh than uh other protease meat tenderizing enzymes do.
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+[22:40] So uh thank again, thank you for that question. And he also uh had a question about lobsters because uh he heard that uh lobsters that are in the tanks start to feed off their own flesh, uh, which you know is true because they typically don't feed lobsters in tanks because if you feed a lobster in a tank, uh it it's gonna raise the uh you know the waste products that are in the tank and any feed that's not used up is going to uh you know ca cause problems so they tend not to feed I guess also it might cause aggression problems but I don't remember it's been a long time since I've read that kind of technical literature on lobsters. Uh but that is true but they can survive a very, very, very long time. So I don't know how I don't know how much uh flesh degradation there is just from being stored on a tank, although it's something I've heard quite a bit. The next time I speak to a lobster uh scientist I will definitely ask them that that question.
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+[23:27] The second thing is what is the enzyme that breaks down lobster meat after you kill them and uh how long till the enzyme starts to work, etc, etc. Can you prevent that enzyme from working uh by freezing it. Uh now listen this is an incredibly complicated question because there's very, very, very many enzymes on the inside of uh a lobster. Uh lobster tends to have uh breakdown of its tissue relatively quickly because the circulatory system and basically all the guts of the lobster everything's in close proximity and kind of an open system. So once the animal is dead those enzymes really start to to work quickly.
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+[24:00] There's a number of enzymes it's not just one enzyme that goes to work in lobsters. There's enzymes in it that that uh break down um that break down ATP and other uh nucleotides in and they eventually become products that uh that affect flavor. In fact um you know uh IMP inosine uh monophosphate is re is reduced to or you know uh changed to other things that have uh negative impact on quality and that is easily traced and is used as an indicator of quality because uh as that starts to progress other things like proteolytic enzymes have also been working, uh breaking down the um the the meat. So and it's it's you know very well known that uh what I forget what the thing is called, the organ on the inside of the lobster it's something like Capato pancreas or something like that, contains a w uh a variety of protease uh enzymes that are just gonna wreak havoc with the meat. Now here's the bad news.
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+[24:51] You cannot stop those enzymes by freezing because uh as you thaw the meat out, like freezing it, they they they will work somewhat as they're frozen, because unless it there's something called the eutectic point, where when you freeze a uh something below the point at which there's no water left at all, then yes, enzymatic activity stops. But in fact, what happens is is that at normal freezer temperatures there's still a good bit of unfrozen water uh left inside of your tissue, and enzymes can continue to work in that situation. But real hell breaks loose when you thaw it, because then you have a lot of water that becomes available to these enzymes that are in a hyper concentrated state uh in the remaining uh tissue of the animal, and they just go to town. And so you uh end up having huge uh degradation on uh on thawing, uh, especially if things are apparently if things are rapidly thawed. Um so uh I hope this uh answers your question.
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+[25:45] Um I plan on doing a lot more work with uh lobster soon. I've been for literally for a year and a half, I've been supposed to be pitching something to the New York Times on uh on lobsters and and what we what we do with them. Uh so look for more in the somewhat near future, although I don't know, it's Nastasha, how near future do you think of realistically? What are we doing? Two or three years out.
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+[26:04] Oh, Jesus, come on now. That's not right. Okay, anyway. Uh oh, uh another interesting thing. Not only are the enzymes working more, uh, but I found a study that says that um the muscle fibers of lobster are something like four times uh more liable to breaking by uh proteolytic enzymes than um than like mammal tissue.
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+[26:25] The one they use was rabbit. They said that the lobster meat was broken down four times uh easier than uh rabbit meat. And I only saw one paper in passing this morning, but uh anyway. And also, cool thing, the uh there's a paper called Novel Uses of Uh Fish Uh and Marine Invertebrate Enzymes in Food Industry from 2000. And they have a cool thing that uh and it's because of this question that I looked it up.
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+[26:48] Uh they have a cool technique where they use enzymes to descale fish, so the scales can basically just be washed off, and then the skin is perfect. You don't have any problem with uh with knife marks or scraping in the skin. And it's used because people tan fish skins for leather, and those guys don't want any scraping on their skin, and so the enzymatic, but I wonder whether there's any application for food industry. Fun? Maybe look it up.
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+[27:12] Yeah. Marine pepsin. Uh the one I found came from salmon. Anyway, so uh thank you for that question. And now uh for our former favorite Thai intern, of course our only Thai intern, but we do love him, weepop, uh weep pop soupy pot, uh asked about the uh old cucumber trick of rubbing cucumber ends together to get the bitterness out.
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+[27:32] So for those of you that aren't aware, there's uh uh there's an old kind of uh what do you want to call it? Like a a kitchen what do you want to call it? Old piece of kitchen wisdom? Yeah. Yeah, right.
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+[27:45] Yeah, I know. I hate it. What does that mean? Nothing. First of all, is it old wives or old wives?
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+[27:49] Wives? Why? With a Vives. Sure? Yes, I'm sure.
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+[27:54] Yeah, okay. Uh anyway, so uh old if it was old wives tail, let me. That's crazy. Anyway, so um anyway, there is a uh an old uh kitchen piece of kitchen wisdom, or maybe not wisdom, uh, that if you uh take and cut the end of a cucumber off and then the both ends of the cucumber, flip it and rub the other end with the other end, then all of a sudden the bitterness is gonna go away. Now, for those of you out there that are like, hey, cucumbers aren't bitter, what the hell is you talking about, right?
+
+[28:24] Now listen, there are wild cucumbers are bitter. Pickling cucumbers can be bitter. Um most supermarket cucumbers, in fact, are not bitter. And if they are bitter, it's the uh it's the skin that's bitter. Right?
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+[28:38] So very, very small percentage of of uh supermarket cucumbers are bitter. And certain people can't even taste the bitterness even in the cucumbers that are bitter. Um what's making it bitter and the the is uh is the thing called cucurb I can't we'll never be able to pronounce this. Cucurbitacin. B and C.
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+[28:57] And uh the the these are present in all the cucumber plants, but usually not so much in the actual fruit. Uh and if they are in the fruit, they they predominate at the stem end. So if you cut the stem end off and then peel it, you're gonna get rid of most of the bitter. But I have not found any sort of evidence for rubbing it getting rid of that bitterness, and it doesn't make any sense. If you're cutting the ends off of the cucumber, well then hell, you're getting rid of the most bitter part of the cucumber, especially if you peel it.
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+[29:20] So that's gonna help right there. The rubbing looks like it's doing something because it foams up and forms a slime. But if you think about it, uh, and I'm willing to be proven wrong on this, how the heck is you gonna pull bitterness out of a whole cucumber just by rubbing the end? I mean, I could stick a uh the end of a cucumber in a in a pot of stink for like you know, half an hour and then cut the stink off, and the rest of the cucumber is still fine. So, how are you gonna draw the bitterness out just by rubbing the end?
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+[29:45] True or false, Dazzi. True. True. She looks uh upset now. She's never gonna eat a cucumber again.
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+[29:50] Uh so anyway, so if you have a bitter cucumber, the the bad news is is that even on the same plant, some cucumbers will be bitter and some won't. Uh and you know, no one's exactly sure. It's like the stress of growing, like how old they are. But your best bet is to cut off the ends and peel it and then wash it to get rid of the bitterness, and you're going to be okay. Oh, we have a caller.
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+[30:09] Hello, caller. Hey, hello. How are you? Doing well. I had a question.
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+[30:15] I've been making a drink for a few years now. It's uh espresso with Coca-Cola and uh just put it over ice. Uh I played around with it a bunch. But the main thing is uh the way I do it is I take ice, uh espresso over the ice. But uh coca doesn't matter.
+
+[30:33] Uh what happens is uh Coca Cola foam uh stiffens up a lot. Uh I want to know if you know uh why that why that would be. Alright, Jose, I'm having I'm having a lot of trouble hearing you because your uh your cell phone your cell phone's breaking up on me. I heard what I was able to hear was espresso beverage and foam, but that what what do you say? Do you put cocoa in it?
+
+[30:53] Right. I make a uh beverage with uh espresso and Coca-Cola. Oh, Coca-Cola and espresso, okay. And the problem with the foam as well. I want to know if you know why that would be.
+
+[31:03] Yeah, so uh uh if you've ever carbonated coffee before, it's a nightmare uh in terms of foaming. It really foams up a lot. Like a lot lot. Um I've never done the research on why, but there's a you know, you know, coffee has a lot of uh espresso specifically has a lot of body to it and a lot of uh emulsified oils in it, and it has a high uh total dissolved solid content, and it's known for holding a head. Like a good espresso, right, has a crema on it.
+
+[31:33] So when you dump an espresso into a Coca-Cola and then try to uh uncap it, you're gonna get like a serious head formation. I've had uh I you know when I carbonate uh coffee beverages, I usually carbonate with uh nitrous. It's not carbonating, but carbonate with nitrous uh to add the creaminess back to the uh to the coffee beverage, like when I'm doing cold, like espresso-based cocktails, and they foam like the dickens. You just can't you can't get around it. Uh I should have done more research.
+
+[32:01] Maybe by one. Yeah, it but it's a it's a if if you're pouring it in, but when you're doing it in a bottle under pressure, it's a it's a it's hard to not have it spray all over the kitchen. It is delicious. I mean, you should try, you know. If you like that, if you do you have one of those ISI cream whippers where you are?
+
+[32:18] Uh I don't have one uh no. I've used them in the past in a lot of restaurants I've worked in. I'm planning on getting one for the restaurant uh I'm starting with now. Yeah, so just you know, just for for giggles, when you're not doing a Coca-Cola one, when you're doing a regular one, just try hitting a cold espresso beverage with a shot of nitrous, and you get a lot of that body and creaminess back that you get from a fresh shot, even more so, uh, but it doesn't have the the carbonation taste. So the carbonation taste, like there's a Manhattan soda, it's called Manhattan soda, I think, that's really good that is a carbonated coffee drink.
+
+[32:49] Uh but a lot of people, if they don't, they want that creaminess without the uh and that foaminess without the uh carbonation, you could try nitrous, and that I've had good success with that. Great. Alright, thank you. Thanks for calling in. It's my pleasure, thank you.
+
+[33:02] Let me see here. We got some more questions on the email. Uh okay, so Anthony Wong, who took our sous vide class, uh wrote in and said, uh, I mentioned that I use a stainless steel pins for cooking a duck breast instead of scoring the skin. Now, a word of and he wants to know where you can get it and what kind. Uh a word of uh background here.
+
+[33:21] When you're cooking a duck breast, you want to cut most people will tell you you want to score the duck breast, uh, you know, the skin side of it, so that when you render out a skin, when you when you crisp up the skin, the fat's gonna render out. Now, Nils Norin, uh, you know, you know, my my bar buddy, partner in crime, head of the French culinary's culinary department, uh, detests this practice because he says that where the scoring is, you're gonna overcook the meat. Uh but people who say who are pro-scoring say, well, they want more fat rendered out. So where where you know, where do you come down on this? Well, Chris Young, uh, chef, formerly the research chef at the Fat Duck Restaurant in um in uh in in England, and uh Nathan Mirvold, the uh Microsoft billionaire inventor of PowerPoint and many other things, um, you know, are coming out with uh, you know, supposedly the uh well, not supposed I've seen it, it's really good.
+
+[34:10] World, you know, the greatest tech cookbook ever written. It's a huge magnum opus. It's coming out at the end of the year. Um, they demonstrated a technique last year at Starshest where they said, Well, what if you took a dog brush and uh, you know, like you go, it's like a steel dog brush. You just go to a pet store, make sure you get one that's stainless steel, and it's got zillions of little tiny stainless steel spines on it, and you just smack the duck breast with this uh dog brush a couple times, and it makes uh all these micro perforations in the skin, and they allow the fat to render out of the duck breast without uh without giving you enough area to overcook the meat that's underneath.
+
+[34:48] And you know what? We've tested it several times, and it's a fantastic idea. So I think anyone that cooks duck breast on a regular, you know, regular basis needs to go buy a dog brush. Uh please don't use the brush you've already used on your dog. That's gross.
+
+[35:02] Go get a brand new dog brush. I think they're like three dollars, they're four dollars. You can get them at any pet food store, uh, pet store or you know, pet supply mart. Right. And uh they do they do uh they do wonders.
+
+[35:13] So uh break time. All right, I've been told we're going to our next commercial break, so call your questions in to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues. If you wanna get down with a bug, this is the way you do it. Walk up and rap to it.
+
+[35:31] Put your hand on a lower left. Oh you know, yeah, and this is what you rap to I mean, come on like you should come on with you, come on, yeah. Give me a thing, what you say, give me what you say, give him a thing, like what you say, give me what you say, give him a thing, give you say so good, what you say let's get it up, give me the stone to the fight. Give him a thing, say, give him a thing, like you say, baby. Give me a thing, what you say, give me what you say, give him a thing, say me a chance to say, give him a thing, say, Welcome back to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[37:25] Calling your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. And we have a caller. Hello, caller. You're on the air.
+
+[37:33] Hi. Hi, Dave. How are you? Hey. Um I had a question about steak.
+
+[37:38] Oh, good. I like steak. I'm a big fan of steak, especially uh ribeyes and grass-fed ribeyes. Nice. Uh, but sometimes uh when I've cooked the steak, there sometimes it's this really hard sort of tendon that runs through it, and I'm not sure what the reason for that is or or what to what to do with those.
+
+[37:57] Uh I mean the the silver skin or the actual piece of connective tissue that is uh that little mean that that one little section on the upper part of the muscle that's something that's in one part of it but not the other. There's not there's not a lot you can do about that. As far as I know, you you have to kind of cut it out. I tend to trim it. I mean, one thing you can do, you can see it before you before you cook it, right?
+
+[38:17] Um and you can trim that out and then uh and then re-glue it back together with uh transglutaminase. I can't remember what that's made out of. I mean, I I don't think that's gonna render even under long cooking. I could be wrong. I don't remember whether that does, but you of course you're never gonna cook that kind of meat long enough to render it in it.
+
+[38:37] So I don't think short of removing it and gluing it back together, which I have done many times, I don't know of a of a good way to get that done. Do you have access to meat glue? Uh no, I don't, but I do I do have a circulator. Okay. Yeah, you know, but the problem is this.
+
+[38:54] So let's s okay. So for those of you that don't know what we're talking about, uh, you know, in uh certain cuts of steak, like in like a long as you go along the uh the you know the the rib steak, you'll see that there's certain ones that have these little like dots in the in the where in between the two muscle parts that are you know that don't they can stay hard basically. Uh now the the there's a an enzyme called transglutaminase, activa transglutaminase that will glue proteins together and it's very simple to use. Uh problem is you have to buy a whole bag of it, and I have a question on that actually came in on an email and answer in a minute. Um, but they can rebond the meat together, and I use it for taking out pieces of connective tissue and then gluing meat back together.
+
+[39:34] Um and that's viable, but you know, you have to have that stuff lying around. Uh the problem with circulators with that is that to render a piece, if it was connective tissue, which is gonna get soft with long cooking, and I don't know that that's the case. Uh at the temperatures you're gonna want to cook a ribeye, which is roughly 55 degrees Celsius, um, it would take uh several days to really break it down. And um, you know, in the tests that we've done with with ribeyes, you don't want to cook them more than about um you know, you know, six hours. We've done one hour, two hours, three hours, four hours, five hours, six hours, seven hours, eight hours, nine hours, ten hours, and overnight on ribeyes.
+
+[40:14] And uh we like them uh best in the ribey's that is in the two to four hour range, and we like them okay, you know, up to about six. At eight, we feel that they're l you know starting to take on kind of a little bit of a squashy texture, and that it gets fibery as you chew. And that long, long cooking on ribeye is not going to be necessarily uh so good for it. So I don't know that you have a long cooking way of uh getting out of it. Hey, you know, you could do if you don't have meat glue though, you can still cut out that that that portion that you don't like and uh and then basically almost you c I don't know what this is gonna work.
+
+[40:51] You could try dusting it. I don't think gelatin's gonna hold it together at the high temperature. I'm trying to think of something you can use other than um other than meat glue, because all you really want to have to do is bind it together. Do you have a vacuum uh sealer as well? Yeah, I do.
+
+[41:05] I mean, you could try sprinkling a little bit of uh of uh like salt and then some sort of uh jelly, it's gonna melt when you do it, but if you vacuum it together, it's gonna hold together while you cook it, and it'll probably hold together while you sear it, but then as you cut it on the plate, obviously you're gonna see that you've trimmed out a piece of the of the muscle, you know. Sorry, I couldn't be more helpful on this one. No, it just sounds like I have to get some uh transglue mix. Yeah, you definitely definitely do. You definitely do.
+
+[41:32] Uh well uh thanks for calling in. That leads great into our next question from Matt, who says um he's been reading up on transglutaminase after seeing the uh Iron Chef uh episode where my brother-in-law Wiley Dufrain used it to make uh unfortunately not shrimp noodles, tilapia noodles. tilapia is you know not our favorite fish. Anyway, uh he said that he really wants to start using it, but he has a couple questions. Do you know of a supplier who sells quantities smaller than the $90 bags online, which are one kilo, uh either an online supplier or a brick and mortar store in Boston or New York?
+
+[42:03] Uh and the short answer is no, I do not. It used to be that um, and it might still be for all I know that if you call up um a Ginamoto, the company that makes it, it's a Ginamoto makes uh transglutaminase enzyme, which is meat glue, the stuff that glues proteins together. You sprinkle it on like powder sugar and the meat she sticks together. It's great stuff. They make it uh Agenamoto under Aji Foods USA makes it and the brand name they use is Activa and the one that you want to get to start with is Activa RM.
+
+[42:33] They used to give out like small 200 gram I think uh sample packs to chefs but the the chef community is taken to it so much they might no longer give out sample packs. And unfortunately Agenamoto does not sell increments smaller than one kilo and because they come packed direct from a Ginamoto in one kilo packs and not in like 50 pound sacks the way that um the way that like you know most powders and hydrocolates come, companies haven't been willing to break them down into smaller packs and a Ginamoto hasn't been willing to make available for to pay for their sample packs. Now if a Ginamoto just said hey look we're gonna quadruple the amount of sample packs we're gonna make and then just charge three times as much per pound people would still buy it because people would rather to test spend fifteen bucks on 200 grams or 20 bucks on 200 grams than um then shelling off for a whole kilo if they don't know if they're gonna use it over time. Especially if they figure they're not going to use it before it goes bad. Now we have toyed with the idea cooking issues of making that enzyme available the same way we make uh Pectanex Ultra SPL and Pectanex Smash uh you know the the miracle pectin uh breaking down enzymes that make the world's greatest French fry and the world's greatest juices.
+
+[43:48] But uh the but we decided against it because we didn't know that we wanted to get in the business of cutting open that uh you know retail pack and then repacking it and selling it. Um maybe we should. I don't know. It's something we should. Yeah, I mean, I have to figure out whether or not uh whether or not it's a problem to do it, or whether or not you know we're gonna run into any issues with it.
+
+[44:09] Um but you know, it would be useful to people. So I apologize that there is no way, but here's what here's what you should do. You should get together with some buddies. You should uh split a package of it, and then when you buy it, make sure that you cut it open, you instantly get all the air out and store it in the freezer, and it will last a good long time in the freezer, like six, six, eight months in the freezer. Uh, and I'm sure you'll get good good use out of it.
+
+[44:31] So I mean it's it's definitely worth getting if you can split the bag with like you know, four or five people, even more so. Um but anyway, I'm sorry I couldn't be more help with that. But then the uh the second part of the question is can meat glue be used with non meat proteins? Uh could you do something interesting with nuts, for example? Well, I've never done anything with nuts, but it does make tofu firmer.
+
+[44:49] And uh, you know, you can make, for instance, peanut tofu, but peanut tofu is very, very soft and it's very hard to get to s to hold together. So perhaps you could use, and this is perhaps because I've never done it. Perhaps you could use transglutaminase to help crosslink proteins in like a peanut curd, for example, and then make uh a more effective peanut tofu. Because peanut tofu is a real pain in the butt, it really clogs things up. It's hard to get it to set up nicely.
+
+[45:13] It's delicious when you get it right though, so that's possible. Um so yeah, transglutaminase works on uh any any protein like that. Uh works like I say, I haven't tried nuts, but it works on cheese. You can glue things to cheese, works on egg yolk, it thickens up egg yolk quite nicely, and you can uh glue things to egg yolks. We glue bacon to egg yolks, which is meat, but you could glue cheese to an egg yolk, I guess.
+
+[45:35] Um, you know, any protein like that. I mean, the problem with slurries, if there's not enough protein and there's too much fat, like in a nut paste, then the protein doesn't have anything to bind on to, and it makes for very kind of weak bonds. And so in certain situations, it tends to act more as a thickener than as a uh than as a you know a gluing agent. They also have one for dairy uh that's used for yogurt to make uh yogurt setup better, but is uh used by uh like Johnny Azini to make ricotta dumplings uh or gnucke rather. So yes, it will bond any anyone or it will it will be active on any one of those um on any one of those proteins.
+
+[46:11] Um there's a lot of there's a lot of things yet to be done with it. Wiley, my brother-in-law, Wally Defrain, he has a very, very interesting application. Unfortunately, it's meat because it uses gelatin, but basically he uses uh transglutaminase to crosslink gelatin so that it doesn't melt anymore, and he makes sheets out of uh vegetables like pasta, then lets it set overnight with the transglutaminase, and it uh once the gelatin sets up and cross-links, it no longer melts but stays flexible like a noodle. And these things can be fried into crisps or used as pasta. It's a fantastic technique.
+
+[46:40] You can look for it on the internet. That one you want to use the um activa that there's a special one called TI that's just the enzyme. It doesn't have uh the the most of the ones we use have casein or added gelatin in it. You want to make sure you use the one that's just straight enzyme for that technique. But uh hopefully that's helpful, and I wish you luck in your in your transglutaminase journeys.
+
+[47:00] Uh I have another question from Ray in uh DC. Hi, Ray. Uh, and uh he likes our show, which is nice. Thank you. Uh and uh a friend of his went to a place called PX in Alexandria, V uh Alexandria, Virginia, uh, and uh and he said they had a uh drink that was made with tobacco, uh tobacco in the drink, tobacco infused, and he thinks it's made with bourbon.
+
+[47:23] Uh well that place PX is uh the the guy there's a guy named Todd Thrasher, and for a number of years now, I think three or four, he's been well known for uh infusing um cocktail uh cocktails with tobacco. Um and I forget I I saw him interviewed on it once and it was uh something about like his ch childhood memories. I think he grew up maybe near a tobacco farm. Anyway, it has a lot of childhood memories for him and the smell of tobacco. I believe he does not infuse the tobacco into the bourbon.
+
+[47:50] He infuses it into, I believe, water and then adds the tobacco water and sear as a syrup to the bourbon. That's I think how he does it. Uh, but I'm not sure, uh, because I don't think he publishes his recipe. Now uh the second part of that question was what do you think about the health effects of that? Well, it's definitely probably you know, uh ingesting it that way is definitely, you know, less harmful than um than smoking it, uh, because you know, a lot of the harmful products in tobacco come from combustion of tobacco.
+
+[48:21] But uh it's not risk-free, obviously. You know, I don't know what the long-term effects of in of ingestion are. Um, you know, but nicotine by itself has, you know, effects on your um on your cardiovascular system. Uh, you know, uh if you ingested huge amounts of it, for any of you who have ever tried uh dipping tobacco, you know, uh like you know, the stuff dip that you put in your lip and have accidentally swallowed the juices, you know that concentrated tobacco juices uh you know make throw up like a demon. At least they make me throw up like a demon.
+
+[48:51] Apparently if you dip all day every day, you can start swallowing the juices without spitting and not vomit. But the one time I was in my buddy Charlie's uh room when I was in high school and he gave me some dip, and then he said, Why aren't you spitting? And I said, You need to spit, and thirty seconds later, his entire room was coated with my lunch. Like uh, you know, f from that on in, I was like, large concentrations of tobacco juice don't sit well, literally in your stomach. And so uh, you know, I doubt he's putting enough tobacco in to have that kind of effect, which means he's probably putting a very small amount in, which means that any health effect is probably small.
+
+[49:23] Uh, you know, especially because how many are you drinking? I don't know. Um what do you think, Stasi? I don't like tobacco. Yeah, no.
+
+[49:30] All right, wait. So I hope that hope that answers uh your question. And Ray also says that he's been uh infusing vodka using our infusion technique, and uh we appreciate we appreciate uh thank you for your question. Um now, Curtis wrote in and he said, regarding freezing and enzymes, uh, because we were talking about that earlier. Then this is like live email, crazy.
+
+[49:48] Uh I have found that pork tenderloin is much more tender when frozen than thawed as compared with fresh. Well, uh I haven't done the test myself, but that's entirely possible. If you slow freeze a piece of meat, what happens is is as you're freezing it, uh water is drawn out of the tissue and forms ice crystals. The slower that it's frozen, the the bigger the ice crystals are, and they can have a tendency to uh not only puncture the uh meat uh cells so that when you thaw you get lost, but also those big ones are harder to reabsorb back into the meat tissue as it thaws. So when you're freezing something, it's think of it as a partial dehydration, and when you're thawing it, the meat is reabsorbing that liquid.
+
+[50:26] Now, the more something drips liquid when it's thawed, the more damage uh you've done to the meat. Now, that damage though, it's possible, I haven't studied it, but it's possible that that actually could make it more tender as long as you're not cooking it to the point where it's gonna dry out again. So it's in entirely uh uh, and also it's entirely possible, as you say in your question, that the uh that the proteolytic enzymes uh present in the meat uh kick into overdrive as they're thawed. But I don't know that information off the top of my head. I'm gonna have to do some uh research.
+
+[51:03] So Stasi, if you want to rejot this question down, I'll try and look for uh I'll try and look for freeze thaw tenderizing in the scientific literature over the course of the week. It's an interesting question. I hadn't thought of it. But it's probably, you know, the effect um, which again I haven't tested, is probably a multi, like a multifactorial thing of a jig. Right?
+
+[51:25] Anywho. All right, so we we were trying to call our good buddy Mark Ladner for this next question. Mark Ladner is a chef at Del Posto and a tall man. How tall is uh Mark Ladner? Six ten.
+
+[51:36] Uh six ten, crazy. He's like six four, six five. So he is tall. He's tall. Uh anyway, uh this this will make sense uh in the next question.
+
+[51:45] So um Steve writes in and said uh a friend whose name is uh Colleen, right? Uh is a is a tall woman. She is uh six foot seven. It's tall. Yeah, just under six foot seven, actually, six foot six, short.
+
+[52:00] Yeah. Not even six foot seven. No. So she's six foot, basically six foot seven. She loves to cook, but she gets terrible back pains when working in the kitchen, uh, particularly when preparing food.
+
+[52:10] And so they have uh, you know, you know, the standard countertops are 36 inches high and is you know inadequate for her. Uh they did some calculations and they figure that uh the average countertop is built for someone who's five four to five five. They think it's based on kind of uh, you know, like uh the average World War II era housewife. Is that uh and that so they constructed a butcher block that's 13 inches uh 13 and a half inches uh high, you know, a table that fits on top of the countertop that she can do her her cutting on. Um but and she loves it.
+
+[52:43] Mm-hmm. She loves it, and you can look on the internets, there's a pictures of her using it and she enjoys it. Uh but she's enrolling in a culinary school, and the question is what can be done for a very tall cook? Does she have to bend over or can she bring something like her modified butcher block uh with her to school, or are there other approaches? Well, that's an interesting question.
+
+[53:02] First of all, uh I don't know that six five that six five, six four is actually I mean, I haven't read I'm sure you've read the studies, I haven't. I'm 5'10, and I like countertop heights a lot. Um when they're even like a couple inches taller, like let's say like they were five inches taller for me, I get fatigued because of the way that I'm used to to cooking. So a lot of how you a lot of uh of what's happening with your with your back and working at a countertop has to do with how you position yourself at the counter, like what your stance is and where your where your wrist and your arm is. So I I'm used to working at 36, so when you go lower or you go higher, like I get t I get totally messed up, right?
+
+[53:43] Um now but that's because I'm used to that. Now I stood on a stool that made me as tall as Colleen, right? And indeed, my arms, I could not get a comfortable stance no matter how I tried. Now, of course, I'm sure Colleen's arms are longer than mine, you know what I mean? I mean, you know, you know, so I don't know whether it's 100%, you know, accurate, but I can see the definite need for someone that height to increase the the height of their countertop.
+
+[54:11] Now, here's the problem. If you're going to a cooking school, I think what what you're gonna do depends entirely on why you're going to cooking school and what kind of cooking school you're going to. If you um I was had this discussion with my wife's an architect, and I was having this discussion with her last night after this question came in. Well, for instance, would a workplace be required to uh allow you to bring something in because of your height? Could could you, for instance, go in, and I'm obviously I'm not saying being tall is a disability, you know.
+
+[54:43] I wish I was tall. You know what I mean? But like in other words, we have in the US, we have the American Disabilities Act, and you can you you have to make the workplace, with the exception of a couple jobs like airline, you know, a flight attendant and whatnot, safety jobs like that, you have to make the workplace accessible to anyone based on something that's classified as a disability. But I don't know that I don't know that you would classify being um too tall for the countertops as something that a workplace would necessarily have to make compensation for. But I don't know.
+
+[55:13] It's a very interesting question. Um, if you're going to cooking school and you're not interested in working in a pro kitchen, you know, for the for years and years, then by all means I would say, you know, ask them, let you bring it in and use it. You know, there's no reason to break your back. Uh but uh if you're gonna be working in professional kitchens for you know a long, long time, you know, I would I would recommend at least trying to figure out some way to modify your your stance or modify something, or maybe use like a weightlifting belt or something that can help support your back. I don't know whether that's helpful because my you know, I was talking to my wife, again, architect and designer, and she's like, there's two choices modify your environment or modify yourself.
+
+[55:56] And the and the and what this boils down to is I don't know if you're going to be able to modify your environment, if you're gonna go out into the professional cooking environment. And if you can't modify your environment, then the only thing left is modify yourself. And that could be with supports for your back or or uh, you know, Alton Brown is apparently very tall, and he designed these knives that have like a uh a bend in the handle so that he doesn't have to bring his wrist all the way down to do the chopping. Now for me, they're goofy because you know I'm short, and you know, I'm 5'10, and so regular knives work great. But you know, I don't know whether she's tried uh these knives with the bend in the handle that are designed specifically for tall people and to make up for the um the difference in height and countertops.
+
+[56:39] So it's an interesting question. I don't have a uh resolution. Um what do you think, Zazi? I I think I don't know. I mean, well, but then I told you about the other part where we knew the guy who was really tiny.
+
+[56:52] Well, Robin, he still works in a kit a professional kitchen. That's easier to modify, I think. Oh, a stool. Yeah, or something. But you know, again, it's a very interesting question, and uh, I wish, you know, I'm gonna get in touch with some uh some cooks who are very, very tall and some cooks who are not so tall and uh you know, you know, very untall.
+
+[57:13] And we will and we'll try to figure out what the uh what the answer is because I think it's I think it's super interesting. But uh the long story short, if you're not gonna go pro into a professional kitchen, and by the way, I I never think any professional kitchen should discriminate against anyone for any reason, obviously. But I'm just saying, like, what can you realize realistically expect to happen when you go to a kitchen? That's the real question. It's not what they should do.
+
+[57:35] We all know what my stepfather said should, you know, I can't get into it with the involved scores. But like it's not what they should do, it's what they will do, is what you need to worry about. Um, but if you're not in it to go pro, um, you know, I think uh a long talk with the cooking school, uh, I'm sure they would like to have her money. Uh so that I'm sure they will make some accommodation. Am I wrong about this?
+
+[57:56] I mean, I don't see it as being that disruptive to the uh class. I think she has her own station and everything. Yeah, I mean, it's not like you know, she's saying, Hey, I need to listen to loud music while I cook or I can't learn, you know, which would be disruptive to the rest of the class. So, you know, I don't see why they wouldn't. But uh anyway, hopefully this is helpful and you've uh raised definitely an interesting question that I will be thinking more about.
+
+[58:14] I love ergonomics uh and design, so uh I'll think more about this problem. And thank you all for listening to Cooking Issues. This year uh this week's cooking issues brought to you by Whole Foods Market and the uh craft beer week cooking issues. Thanks so much. Oh you did that.
+
+[58:38] Got me on this corner. And I don't know where I'm at.
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+[0:00] Nine times out of ten, when someone is taking the time to break away and do their own thing, it's because they either have a specific point of view or a specific passion that really sort of speaks to maybe not a mass audience, but the customers that I have and the customers at Barter House tries to culture and and cultivate, I think are are those type of people who want that story and feel like if they take a an allocation of an 80 case made wine that they've got something special and it's something that only they have or maybe one other person has. So that's kind of what we specialize in. And you know, it may not be business savvy to the nth degree, like we're not making a hundred thousand cases of Pinot Grigio and you know, flogging them all over New York, but the customers that get wine from us are kind of believing the same stuff we do, which is supporting these small farms, supporting these young winemakers who have a passion for doing it, and and we supply them with a market and we allow them to get their product out there to otherwise an untapped uh group of people. Oh, you did that. Got me on this corner.
+
+[1:24] Don't know where I'm at. Hello, and welcome to Cooking Issues Radio on the Heritage Radio Network, the show where you call in with all your cooking questions. I'm Dave Arnold, the host of Cooking Issues here with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, the driver of the technological bus. All right. Uh call in all your questions to 718-497-2128.
+
+[1:45] That's 718-497-2128. We'll be here for about the next forty-five minutes. Nasasha, I hear we already have a caller, yeah? Yeah, we do. Nice.
+
+[1:52] All right, caller, you're on the air. Hello, uh, this is Obi. I'm all the way out in Tucson, Arizona. Nice. Um a couple of questions.
+
+[2:01] Uh I've got a CVAP. I'm I'm a chef, uh, and we we got a CVAP in our kitchen not too long ago. Um and we've done a couple things, a couple cool things with it. Did kind of uh uh, you know, we did a 48 hour short rib just the other day and it turned out really, really good. In the bag or not in the bag?
+
+[2:19] In a bag in in uh Ziploc, you know, with just a little bit of uh a little bit of stock, and uh it turned out amazing. It was it was kind of weird because um the temperature does shift in them. What I had to do was I have a um I can't remember what model is it, the five five oh five hundred something. Yeah, I don't know them by model number anyway, I just know them by looking at them. Yeah, the well it's I the the thing I had to do was to keep it on um keep it on the load cycle, like not actually even press cook.
+
+[2:53] And uh it kept the temperature more steady. Uh that's hot. But um I it kept it around between thirty-four uh one thirty-four and one thirty-six degrees. And uh they came out really, really good. Uh but my question was I mean, I'm sure you've messed with them a lot, and I was just wondering if there was any other cool things that that uh that you guys had done with them.
+
+[3:13] Okay, well for well, just before we get into it, but for those of who don't know what a CVAP is, for our listeners, a CVAP is a type of uh uh oven originally designed to hold actually Kentucky Fried Chicken. It was invented by a guy by the name of Winston, uh actually for Kentucky Fried Chicken. He was friends with Colonel Sanders, and they built this thing. It's basically a Bain Marie in the bottom of a holding oven. And you adjust the water temperature of the Bane Marie and the temperature of the oven separately, and you can adjust the humidity in there and you can keep things uh, you know, nicely for a really, really long time.
+
+[3:43] When uh the sous vide uh crackdown happened in the New York City with the health department about four or five years ago, uh CVAPs all of a sudden became very, very popular because chefs could use them to do low temperature cooking, uh very accurate low temperature cooking with fish. Uh and so uh and here's where I get in that's just the background. Here's where I get into your actual question. A lot of chefs here in New York retrofitted CVAPs into their kitchens because uh either they couldn't afford a combi oven right away, uh, or they couldn't retrofit because uh the venting requirements of a combi oven. A uh C C VAP ovens are a lot less expensive than a COMBY oven, and and they don't require venting or drains, and they take up a lot less power.
+
+[4:19] And they're fairly accurate, actually. Uh I don't know what's going on with yours, but Nathan Mirvold and Chris Young, who are coming out with the Uber Tech book at the end of this year, have done uh independent tests on CVAPs, and they hold about two degrees with a plus or minus two degrees uh accuracy uh over the long haul. And I think they they're slightly better now than they used to be. It depends a lot on temperature and the size of the oven you're using. Smaller ovens, obviously more accurate.
+
+[4:42] Or not obviously, but they are. And uh the uh so one thing I really recommend you try out there is fish, not in the bag. So you can do really quick work with fish. You know, you set the temperature 10 uh 15 degrees higher than you want the fish to go, and you know, you depending on the size of the portion, you're looking at like a 10 to 12 minute uh cook time in in the CVAP, and a lot of chefs in New York move to this because they're not allowed to cook fish in the bag. So the CVAP is very, very good at low temperature work, uh direct service, low temperature work not in the bag.
+
+[5:10] The one thing you have to worry is when you open and close it a lot, it starts sucking a little bit of wind, and you're gonna have to increase your cook times a little bit. Um it's also good for hamburgers, anything like that that you want to keep. Now, I don't really like this. If we did hamburgers, hamburger's worked great in it. Yeah.
+
+[5:24] Hamburgers were awesome. I mean, you have to post sear them because things lose the texture on the outside in uh in a CVAP after they've been sitting there a while. But uh Howard Richardson, who's the guy at the company that you're gonna want to talk to if you have any problems, he's the rep. His favorite demo in uh, you know, when he goes out to the NRA, the National Restaurant Show, not the National Rifle Association show, is uh to hold tortilla chips in him because you can use them actually with in very low humidity uh circumstances to keep stuff hot without drying out. It's completely counterintuitive that you could have a water bath in the bottom of something and hold tortilla chips in it.
+
+[5:54] But yeah, they were talking about when I first bought it, they were talking about how good steam is like dry steam or something. Well, yeah, it's not this dry steam is really just hot steam, so it's not uh see not this is it's it's different, it's literally setting the humidity level. But uh I plan on doing a lot on CVAPs in our next uh installment of the uh low temperature primer. If I ever write it, Nastasha's rolling her eyes at me right now because I've been very far behind. But uh I guess we'll be coming back.
+
+[6:18] We came up with a beautiful prime rib. I mean, we've we've been trying I've I don't know how many prime ribs I've put through it, and we came up with a formula that pr produces an awesome prime rib. Yeah, no, I mean it's uh it's fantastic at those kind of things and very economical to run. Uh but you know what you should do uh phone in with some more specific ones next week. I'm gonna think more about specific CVAPs as I think more about uh recipes, but it's definitely a very important piece of equipment.
+
+[6:41] It's becoming very very popular. Thanks so much for your call. We have another call. Yeah, we do. Hello, you're on the air.
+
+[6:47] Hi, this is Corbin from San Diego. Hey Corbin, how are you doing? Good. Um, so I recently had an opportunity to pick up a used VWR circulator from a uh university surplus auction. I I got it real cheap.
+
+[7:01] It was only like fifty dollars. But now I'm trying to figure out how to sterilize it, clean it, and go through it and make sure all the key components are still working. Do you have any recommendations? Yeah, do you know what kind of lab it was in? Um I don't.
+
+[7:15] They don't have any information like that. Okay. Um so most like did it have a lot of oil deposits on it or no? It's pretty clean, but the the coils have a little bit of like uh calcium deposits on it. But other than that, not not too bad.
+
+[7:31] Okay, so it was probably used in water as opposed to in oil. It's a lot easier to clean that way. Uh I would suggest um spraying everything with a fairly concentrated bleach solution and then letting that bleach solution soak into the coils. You want to make sure for first you actually you should go over with a toothbrush and get all of the actual deposits. Any deposit that's on the uh uh on the circulator itself is going to harbor uh evil things even after it's been soaked in bleach, right?
+
+[8:00] So the first thing you want to do is get off any sort of deposits. Then you're gonna want to circulate in it uh like a CLR tablet, which is gonna you know the the uh calcium lime rust remover, and that's gonna get rid of uh the calcium deposits, and then after that I would soak it for a while in uh a fairly concentrated bleach solution, and that's gonna kill anything that remains into from a biological standpoint. I would wipe down the entire surface of the piece of equipment with with uh with bleach, uh, you know, try not to you know don't have it plugged in. Duh. And uh and then um you know, from there on out after she dries, and if you want, you can circulate it, you know, up to boiling to be darn sure.
+
+[8:37] But at that point you should have killed everything. Now uh how long the circulator is gonna last depends on how long it was run and what kind of care they took in it, right? The older circulators have a problem with the bearing. The bearings on them tend to go bad. If she starts to squeak and squeal on you, then you can put some WD uh I wouldn't put WD forty actually, because you know it's not food grade, but if you put a food grade lubricant on the bearing, you'll extend the life cycle by a couple of months, probably of hard usage, I mean restaurant-style usage.
+
+[8:59] Um I would also open up the circulator. Are you good with electricity or no? Yeah, I'm pretty good. Okay, open up the back of the circulator. Uh, all of the old circulators have a lot of uh contact points with spade terminals in them to make electrical connections on the inside of the unit.
+
+[9:17] I would uh take a file and I would file them clean. They become resistors because they get uh water vapor or they corrode. When they corrode, they become resistors, and you lose uh uh, you know, you basically you start generating heat there. And I've seen a lot of circulators fail that way. So I would go to all the internal connections and I would just make sure they're good and clean, uh, and that's gonna extend the life of the circulator another good long, good long chunk of time.
+
+[9:39] So uh the the first thing to usually go is the is the bearings on the old ones, and the second thing is usually the electrical connections. Uh I've had occasional ones, but not with VWRs, but uh certain old Lauda ones used to have problems with their triacs blowing, in which case you need to then be able to uh replace the triact, which is a little more challenging than other things, but still possible. But that's in general what dies on them. Is that but is that a good uh roadmap for you? Yeah, that's great.
+
+[10:02] Exactly what I was looking for. Super, right into the blog and tell us how it worked. I'm always curious about these kind of things. Thanks so much for your call. Okay, thank you.
+
+[10:10] We have one more? Yeah. No. Wait, let's take a break, I think Jack is saying. Oh, we gotta take a person's been waiting.
+
+[10:15] All right, all right, we'll take a break. We'll be back with cooking issues. Oh! How you feel, brother? Feeling good.
+
+[10:23] You feel good? So much bone, brother. How you feel, mate? I'll feel all right. I don't want to people to know you're in, yeah.
+
+[10:31] How you feel, fella? Get down! Sure getting down. Look at him. We're gonna have a bump good time.
+
+[10:42] We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. Don't take them up, Brad. We gotta take you high.
+
+[11:06] Alright. You wanna do it again? Yeah, let's go on. We gotta take you high. Brother.
+
+[11:20] Yeah. Now I won't have a body. Let's bread blow up by two cores. Now alright. I'm gonna get that belly with a little horn over there.
+
+[11:37] Take us higher. Brad! Welcome back to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network. Today brought to you by the Barter House. They poured us a nice wine, uh, Jules, which is a Syrah Granage, and I have no idea where it's from.
+
+[11:59] Uh call in all of your questions too. 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. And as I feared, Nastasha, we lost our caller over uh over the phone during the break. Uh and uh one more thing.
+
+[12:13] I have a shout shout out to the best device ever built. We're in a uh studio that's in basically a working farm in the middle of Brooklyn, so we have uh fly problem here, right, Nastasha in the studio? And they've bought these electric fly rackets, which are about the greatest things I think ever invented, no? It's just the greatest thing ever. It's like uh, I don't know, it's just so satisfying.
+
+[12:29] It's like I'm gonna kill a fly, see whether you can hear it on. No, I'll we'll try it later. Anyway, uh because I have too many questions to get to to uh to meander about with uh electric flies water problems. Okay, Red writes in, he says, Dave, uh, I need a recipe for bone in chicken thighs or legs, uh, time and temperature when you're cooking low temperature. Now, uh, for those of you who I don't know who don't know me or don't know what we do, low temperature cooking is one of the most important uh new, I want to say new, like the past 10 years, kind of ways to cook in uh in professional kitchens and increasingly in home kitchens, you can now go into Williams and Sonoma, Williams and Sonoma?
+
+[13:04] Williams and Oma. William Sonoma, and uh buy an immersion circulator, which is kind of the best piece of equipment to start doing this kind of work with uh and do it. Now, uh the problem is is that when you put something like chicken and you cook at low low temperature, by the way, you you're gonna want to cook uh chicken legs around 64 or 65 degrees Celsius, in my opinion. Uh right in that range. I wouldn't do 63, I wouldn't even really do 64 for lys and uh thighs and legs.
+
+[13:27] I would do uh I would do 65 Celsius. So I apologize uh for not knowing what that is in Fahrenheit, but uh you know, you use Google. Uh the um here's the main problem. You don't want to do a bone in uh chicken thigh or leg in a vacuum or a very high vacuum. And here's the reason why.
+
+[13:44] The inside of bones, uh chicken bones, even particularly, are hollow and they have in them a red uh kind of gunk on the inside. When you suck a vacuum on on these things, what happens is that red gunk is pulled out of the bones and goes along the meat near the bone, and then that meat becomes permanently red, okay? Uh, and nobody likes to eat permanently red uh chicken meat. They just don't they don't like it. They say it's not cooked, it's not cooked.
+
+[14:08] I've uh as a test, I have made it where I've cooked it for a long time at you know at these temperatures that I know are cooked. The texture is cooked, you have people close their eyes, they like it, uh they look at it and they just won't put it in their mouth. And this is you know, trained people, this is like my family and friends. So you you you really want to be sure not to suck too high a vacuum. The other problem is if you cook very slowly in one of these uh in these situations, you might still get uh this phenomenon, what we call persistent pinking.
+
+[14:33] If that happens to you, you're gonna have to cook it faster, which means jacking the temperature up a little bit, maybe to like 70, and then only cooking it for like 30, 35 minutes. I do mine at 65 uh 64 or 65 Celsius for about 45 minutes. If they're thin pieces, you don't want to have them all glumped together because you want the heat to penetrate rather quickly. You don't want them to take a long time to get up to temperature because then you're gonna have more problems with the red not going away and it's staying red. Uh uh so you know, if you have a problem with the with the red not going away, I recommend just boning them, getting them to go flat, and then you can cook them very uh fairly quickly and you won't have that problem.
+
+[15:07] Hope that answers your question, Red, and good luck with the uh with the chicken. Uh Nastasha just pointed out that the electric fly swatter, which I promised I wouldn't talk about anymore, is also a lizard killer, although that seems rather gruesome. So gruesome. Anyway, okay. Uh so we have a call, uh sorry, a um uh what's it called?
+
+[15:26] Question email, yeah, a question from Nathan. It says, uh so there's a lot of uh low temp and vacuum questions uh having to do with meat, and it's true. There's a lot of like in protein questions. And he has a vegetable question. When you roast beets, he can never seem to get them to be uniformly cooked.
+
+[15:38] One side is too crispy, the other side is too hard, presumably undercooked, and the whole thing dries out. He tries wrapping it in foil, olive oil, etc. etc. ovens at 350, ovens at 400, it's all a big it's all a big nightmare for Nathan, the beets. Well, uh, this is an excellent application of low temperature cooking.
+
+[15:54] What happens when you put uh and specifically sous vide, although you could probably do it in a Ziploc, um the what happens the whole advantage of putting something in a bag right is that nothing gets in and nothing gets out right so you're not leaching flavors out and you're also not evaporating much moisture off the surface of your of your product right and also it's it's different from putting it into water where then the water or whatever cooking medium you're using is actually leaching into the product right so um what it basically is like is it's like roasting even though you're doing it in water in a bag it's like roasting in the sense that you're not um you're not you know inside of a poaching liquid but uh on the other hand it doesn't get those those roasted flavors like it's not gonna get dehydrate on the outside you're not gonna get those brown flavors so what I would recommend for a beet is I would uh I would peel it unlike you do I think the reason you don't peel it when you put it into an oven is you don't want it to bleed out into your oven and you also don't want it to lose a lot of moisture and so the skin is preventing that kind of moisture loss when you're on the uh if you heard that pop in the background that was Nastasha kick killing a fly with the electric fly zapper um so when you have it in the bag right you're preventing that kind of moisture loss so I go ahead and peel it beforehand because inside the bag I think you're gonna have a tendency for the earthy notes on the skin to kind of get into the whole beet and I don't think you're gonna want that very much so I would peel it put it in the bag you could put any kind of fat uh in it you want even up to you know no fat at all but I would put a little fat in uh some sort of you know either solid or liquid neutral fat I wouldn't use olive oil it tends to flavor in the like the good quality olive oil that I like for finishing I don't really like so much when you cook in the bag and then you can just simmer it in a pot of in a pot of water. Now the the thing is is that unlike it's not like boiling a vegetable, the times are closer to roasting because there's not a lot of excess water inside the bag to break down the vegetable. That's the whole benefit because it's like roasting. Okay. So what you're gonna have to do is is you're gonna have to cook these vegetables simmering in the pot for as long as you would have to basically roast it, sometimes even longer.
+
+[17:46] Okay. And so uh you want to keep it in and keep uh testing it by pinching with your fingers and seeing where when it's done. Make sure the sides of the bag don't hit the um the side of your pot. If they do, um, you're gonna be in trouble. It's gonna probably it might have a possibility it's gonna melt the bag where it where it touches the edge of the pot if flame is licking over the side of the pot.
+
+[18:04] But it's a fantastic technique. Just remember it's gonna take a good long time to do, so be patient. The other good news is it does it's not gonna really overcook on the inside of the bag too much, so it's the timing is not so critical. Just let it go basically as long as you want, pull it out, and then if you want some of those caramelized roasted flavors, throw some oil in the bottom of a pan and throw it into like a 450 or 500 degree oven just to throw some color onto the outside of your uh beets, some roasted flavor, and you're good to go. It's actually an excellent application.
+
+[18:29] Uh carrots, similarly good. All these kind of uh root vegetables and things that can be roasted are great inside of a vacuum bag, and it really keeps a bright preserved flavor, not preserved in the preserved sense, but it preserves the bright, clean, pure vegetable flavors that uh that a lot of us love. So, thanks so much for that question. Because we definitely should not overlook vegetable cookery uh when you're doing low temperature. Okay, uh now Brian calls in uh and he said he just received the NOMA cookbook, and there's a recipe for um milk skin where you add milk protein and milk uh and cream in a pot and then heat it, uh, and then you have to take this the skins off, kind of like what happens in your coffee.
+
+[19:07] And these and he says the instructions say it's advisable to first remove the few skins that form as they will be fragile and subsequent squint skins will become more and more resilient. And uh Brian wants to know what's causing this, and uh, etc. etc. And can't he just leave the uh the the thing to form longer to form a thicker skin before he pulls it off? And can he do that instead of removing the first few?
+
+[19:29] No. Uh so this is actually a complicated question. Uh and it's one that I've been interested in actually in a long time, although not in the form of milk skins, in the form of Yuba. So I'm gonna talk about Yuba and milk skins and cream skins uh and uh and how they're made and kind of what goes on. So I'm gonna start with Yuba.
+
+[19:49] Yuba is basically uh you heat soy milk in a wide shallow pan and a skin forms on the top, and then you pull the skin off and you dry it a certain amount, and that's Yuba or bean ski uh bean curd skin. And this stuff is I think delicious. And you know, I make it at home, uh, I think it's in incredibly delicious. And what what it is is is that you need and the same thing happens with milk and cream if you add milk protein as well. But uh, the same exact phenomena is happening.
+
+[20:17] You have a large surface area, uh, you're heating it underneath. It the heat needs to be above 60 Celsius, and in practice, you want to get it up higher, up near like 80, 90 Celsius, just under the boil. You don't want it to boil because then you're gonna have problems with boil over and uh with gas bubbling it, and you're gonna hurt the surface of your skin because the the top of the the top of the of the milk or or soy milk needs to be relatively placid for a good skin to form. Um so you heat it, you're partially denaturing the proteins, uh, you know, the the milk, either the soy or the milk proteins, and they're kind of floating up to the surface where they get concentrated, they aggregate onto fat droplets that are on the surface, and then all of a sudden, as they start evaporating, as they lose moisture because it's heat and you have evaporative cooling coming off the top, they form a skin, and that skin bonds together, polymerizes, and forms a permanent film. In the case of soy milk, it forms a yuba, which is a uh bean curd uh skin.
+
+[21:10] And in the case of milk, it forms a milk skin. Now, most of the time this is a nuisance to us when we're, you know, in our cup of coffee or we're heating milk or something like that. And so you try to prevent it either by uh putting a f uh, you know, a foam or a froth on top, keeping the lid covered so that it can't so that moisture can't evaporate, or you know, putting uh some sort of film over the top. But uh there are a couple of old cases where this is actually done on purpose. So there's something called cabbage cream where you would take very cream-heavy milk and you would lift uh you would lift sheets of it off and then layer it with more cream.
+
+[21:39] It's like an old Elizabethan dessert. You can read about it in Harold McGee. There's very few kind of references to it online. Uh but Yuba is really the one that's used the most often. Now the problem is is that it's actually a complicated phenomenon.
+
+[21:50] It requires uh different protein concentrations and fat concentrations. So what happens is is the first couple of ones that solidify are very delicate. They're also higher in uh protein uh and they have a different composition of proteins. As you remove that, the actual chemical uh composition of the rest of the batch is altered somewhat. And so in Yuba, as in milk skin making, the first couple are are very fragile, and in Yuba, actually, those first couple are considered the highest grade.
+
+[22:16] They have the least flavor and they're the most delicate. As you go in and in, you've depleted some of the protein and fat, and so the yuba becomes, or I guess milk skin, although I haven't done as much with milk skin, becomes higher and higher in sugar, and they also become thicker and thicker, right? Because the sugars in milk. So from Yuba, you start with a relatively bland, tasteless, high protein with fat uh you know skin forming on top. And by the end, you have much thicker, not as strong, red and sweet Yuba, which I actually like a lot.
+
+[22:44] So like the as you take each successive skin off, because you're changing the the the actual makeup of the leftover milk, the yuba itself changes. So it's not enough to just sit and wait for the skin to go longer. You actually want to remove the first couple if that's what the chef wants. Maybe you could use them for something else. And then um and then you know go from there.
+
+[23:02] If you're interested in making uh milk skin, I guess read the Noma book, although I don't have it. Uh if you're interested in Yuba or any form of tofu, which I highly recommend you make at home. Once you start making tofu or go to a really high grade shop, if you make it yourself, you're not gonna want to go back to the crap that's in the supermarkets. Like real tofu, I think has a flavor. You can control it.
+
+[23:21] I love it. It's fantastic stuff. And when you make it, you just want to eat it, you know, by itself. You don't want to ruin it and you know, you don't you don't want to turn it into some sort of fake turkey or some sort of BS crap, you know, fake meat analog junk. You just want to eat it for what it is.
+
+[23:35] Tofu gets a bad name because it's misused and the stuff that we uh buy has been soaked in so much water that there's absolutely zero flavor of the actual uh you know, bean left. Uh and there's just kind of no subtlety to it. You know, what you can when you make your own, you can control the texture from almost like a cloud tofu that you can put in the soups. It hasn't been pressed at all all the way down to firm tofu. You get the okara leftover, which is the uh which is the pulp from the from the soy, which you can mix into you know, muffins or pancakes.
+
+[24:01] You you get the soy milk, which you can make yuba from if you want. I mean, it's just incredibly amazing, versatile product that uh is really fun to work with at home, but it's a mess. So if your spouse uh is you know, make them leave if they don't like messes. Uh alternatively, have them help you if they like to cook. Uh so the uh so it the what you need to buy is go out and buy a book called The Book of Tofu by a guy named William Shirtleaf out of uh out of California.
+
+[24:26] He has like the soy institute. He himself is kind of a nut, well, I shouldn't say it's for me, kind of a nut job. He believes he's gonna save uh God bless him, I hope he does, save the world through inexpensive uh vegetable and soy proteins. The he and his wife, uh, what's her name? I forget her name.
+
+[24:42] Anyway, she they they have this soy Institute, and it's uh it his books are amazing. Don't buy the small abridged ones, buy the big ones because they haven't been chopped up and the information is there. But the book of tofu is one of the all-time great reads on how to make tofu. Don't call him on the phone and ask him whether you can make tofu from edamame because he's like, Why would you waste edamame by making tofu out of it? Don't do it.
+
+[25:03] I did it. It was a mistake. I got a stern talking to by the man. But uh, I highly respect I highly respect his work. And you can then use what he says about tofu and make all sorts of other curds as well.
+
+[25:14] You can make peanut curds, although they're really like tofu out of peanuts, although it's and probably also peanut skins, the same way you make edamame skins. But uh, it's uh more difficult because the fat content is higher. So you might need to dope with uh up with protein or else use transglutaminase, aka meat glue, the chef's friends, which we've spoken about here uh, you know, on several occasions. You can look at the blog cooking issues, get more information on meat glue, but I'm sure you can make a peanut skin by adding little transglutaminase. So I hope this answers your milk skin questions, and we're gonna take another break and come back with Cooking Issues Radio.
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+[25:44] Call your questions in to 718-497-2128, 718-497-2128. We're not here, groove like this. Oh, yeah, baby. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[26:16] Back way of yeah, man. Ah thing. Look at you. Some of a guy groove like this. To know who know.
+
+[26:25] No. I need to grip. Need to grip the bit no bread. You know, I believe hey, Brad Dum. Bravo!
+
+[26:56] I'm getting ready to wave y'all leave. You know what? I feel so down. I need to get down and all the vomita gets down. I gotta get in the deep.
+
+[27:04] Welcome back to Cooking Issues Radio on the Heritage Radio Network brought to you today by the Barter House. Call your questions in to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. So I almost missed it, but uh Brian had a second uh part of his question. It's actually probably interesting for some of uh our listeners.
+
+[27:21] He's uh training in New Zealand, land of legal distilling, by the way. Thank goodness for New Zealand and its legal distillation laws. May we all have your laws someday. Um he said he's uh thinking of either going to Australia or uh the United States to work in restaurants afterwards, and he's interested in restaurants here in the in the states like Townhouse in Virginia, WD-50 in New York, or Moto or Linney in Chicago, and wants to know the best way to get into it. Now he's about to stage at a at a you know kind of a very modern you know modern cuisine restaurant called uh Attica in Melbourne and wants to know how to get to these other restaurants.
+
+[27:54] The short answer is that uh if you are willing to work for free in a stage, you can come work in almost any of these restaurants, if you set it up far enough in advance and they have space. The best thing to do if you're staging at you know a well-known restaurant like Attica is to because all you know, all these chefs basically know each other. Like everyone who's in this kind of business, they they know the people that are in their same circle, same group. And they all extend um they all extend professional courtesy to each other, whether it's making reservations or whether or not it's taking on cooks. So what I would do is I would bust your behind at this place.
+
+[28:27] Just you know, break your back at this place at Attica, right? And then go to the chef or the Sioux or whoever you're closest to and say, listen, I'm really interested in these restaurants, and and do you know anyone there? And that's the surest way to get into one of these restaurants. Much, much, much surer than uh just trying to cold call or do something like that. And that's really the way this kind of business is done.
+
+[28:50] So when you're in a cooking school, you have all the the cooking contacts from the cooking school, and then once you're in a restaurant, you have the the um the contacts of that chef, and it's all about you know, they're gonna put their name on the line because they believe in you because you've worked hard for them. And that's how the business works. Wouldn't you say so, Nastasha? Yes. You know, so you know, and I know when I send people to restaurants, that's how it is.
+
+[29:11] I say, this person is good, take them on, and they almost always say yes, or if they really have no space in the kitchen, they say, Well, can they wait until X, Y, and Z when I'm gonna have some space in the kitchen? But assuming you're willing to work for at least a small amount of time gratis, then uh, you know, you you get for free. Then um, you know, you can definitely get in. And if you've already had a paid job at one of these places, it's a lot easier for them to send cooks from place to place. That's just to me, I think that's just the way the business works.
+
+[29:35] Uh so I hope that's helpful and good luck and choose America. Okay. Uh so um uh um Ari Del Rosario uh writes in, he found us via uh Josh Azursky's write-up in time. Thanks. Uh thanks for coming.
+
+[29:49] Uh he wants to pester us on some tips for uh Asabuco. Uh I love Asibuco, it's one of the things that my mom uh used to make growing up. Asubuco is veal shank. Uh that's uh cooked until it's delicious and tender. Um but he doesn't really want to wait to braise it three hours, and he wants to know.
+
+[30:06] He said, Can you pressure cook instead and hope for the same results? You're actually uh not gonna get the same results in a pressure cooker as you're gonna get over a slow braise. I happen to think that they're delicious. I like pressure cooking, but it's gonna be a little bit different. The meat's probably gonna be uh the fibers are gonna be a little more distinct, but it'll still it'll still be delicious.
+
+[30:23] Yes, you can do asubuco in a pressure cooker. It's gonna take you um on average, if you use second ring, which is 15 pounds per square inch, I would say it's gonna take you on the order of 25 minutes. And so, what you're gonna want to do to adapt your recipe is uh the main problem with asebuco in a pressure cooker is going to be uh the tomato scorching and sticking on the bottom of the pan that you cook with tomatoes. So you're gonna want to maybe have to make the sauce a little bit thinner than you would normally. Make sure it's you know you want to sear off your asubuco, put it in, uh, and you're gonna want to um make sure that it's boiling and you're stirring and boiling before you close the pot, or you're gonna might have to get some scorching from the tomato in the bottom.
+
+[30:58] Uh so it's not gonna be the exact same result, but it's gonna be uh delicious. I believe I've made asubuco in the in the pressure cooker before. Yeah, I think so. The other thing you're gonna want to do is don't uh force vent it because that might dry out the surface and like blow apart the meat a little bit. So let the pressure come down on the pressure cooker naturally and then open it up.
+
+[31:14] And and he says uh that he made a variant of asubuco, but with Spanish chorizo, chickpeas, carrots, and potatoes, and he said everything went well except the shank was really tough. And uh and he said it didn't help that I was rushing. Exactly. You know, when you cook, when you braise a piece of meat traditionally, what happens is is that until it's finished brazing, it's tough, tough, tough because you instantly overcook the meat with the with the high temperatures. So now you're relying on the collagen breakdown to give it that kind of uh tenderness back and and to make it so like an under-braised piece of meat is gonna be dry and tough.
+
+[31:44] And so that's why it seems counterintuitive. But uh what happen, you know, what happens is the longer you cook it at that point uh until you break down the collagen, then um you know it's gonna get it's gonna get tender again as the as the collagen turns to gelatin. It doesn't help to cook it any longer than that. Once you start cooking it longer, it's just gonna turn mushy, and eventually, if you boil any liquid out of it, it's gonna go dry again. But pressure cooker is definitely the way to go.
+
+[32:06] Uh, and you know, please write in and tell us how it worked, but I'm sure it will work well. Pressure cooker has another advantage, by the way. It doesn't heat up your whole damn kitchen. Uh, and it's actually use it's fairly energy efficient, so it's actually uh a really good way to do it. And Asibuco is of course one of the great recipes of all time.
+
+[32:21] Uh okay. Val writes in and said uh Val's curious about our opinion on Nathan Miraval's soon to be released book, uh Modernist Cuisine. Is that what it's called? Modernist cuisine? I didn't know that was the actual name of that.
+
+[32:32] I guess so. I don't know. Uh is it worth uh the price? Uh also since you're interested in the best way to do things, what kind of knives do you use and why? And do you use oil or water stones to sharpen them?
+
+[32:42] Okay. These are two uh interesting questions. The first one that I'm gonna talk about is the Nathan Miravold book. And uh I guess the question of whether it's worth it uh depends on how much money you have. Uh, you know, I think uh, you know, if you have the money, I think it's definitely uh worth it.
+
+[32:58] I mean, I think it's you know it's gonna be it's a Herculean effort. It's um it's unlike any book that's uh ever been published in cooking, to my knowledge. Um it's uh you know what's interesting about it is that it's at this at one time it's got a lot of uh technical points, but it's also uh you know got a lot of personal points too. It's got a lot, you know, it's very, it's very personally written, it's got a lot of personal opinions. So you get a lot of the opinions of of Nathan and Chris, and uh and it's uh you know it's it's unlike any other book.
+
+[33:26] I mean it hey, it's good to be a billionaire, you know, like they they got to do what they wanted to do in this book and I think that um you know it's a hundred percent worth the worth the purchase price. Now if if you didn't make rent last week you know then uh you know that's a different story then you know go go and read it in the library but if you can afford to go to uh I in fact when uh I had a meeting with Nathan Miravold and I say wow you know it's kind of expensive he's like well look you know if a cook can afford to go to per se uh you know they can afford to buy the book and I was like you're right you know what I mean it's like you know you're gonna learn a lot in the book and it's uh so you know I think it's definitely worth the purchase price and if you knew the amount of work that they put into the book it's probably underpriced. I mean in terms of the amount of work that it took for them to do it it's probably underpriced. If you look at the images and what happened I there is I I there's never been a book made like it I don't think what do you think Nastasha you saw I think you're right the pictures are beautiful. Yeah and just the work that went into them you know I mean it's just uh you know for any of you who have ever had to actually make uh any images it's a huge hassle and uh you know they they had a rule when they were make doing the book that any time they bought a piece of equipment they'd buy two and cut one in half so that they could have pictures for the book.
+
+[34:39] Think about it. You know what I mean? So uh yes. So then the second part of this question is what kind of knives do we like and how do we sharpen them oil and water stones. This is an excellent question.
+
+[34:49] There is so much um what's the word crap out on the you know out on the web and so many kind of ill considered opinions on what the best sharpening technique and the best um best knives, and there's so much hype and there's so much hoo-ha um that it's hard for me to make any kind of actual uh pronouncements. I will say this. Um don't compare American grits. Uh you know, the grit is the size of the uh is how they rate abrasives, right? What the grit size is, right?
+
+[35:22] Like so smaller, uh you know, high higher numbers like 2,000, 3000, 4,000 mean finer grit. And if they're it's rated in microns, then smaller numbers mean finer and finer grit. But Japanese grits, right? Most most high-end chefs here in the US, we you know, they tend to like uh Japanese knives, Japanese style knives, Japanese sharpening stones, and those knives are fantastic. Um but um Japanese grits and American grits can't be uh they're not one to one.
+
+[35:48] So don't think that if you have like a 5,000 Japanese stone and then you have like a 2,000 or whatever, I don't know what the the American stone, that you can just relate relate them that way. Also, how sharp your knife is depends on uh what you're using it for. Okay. So, you know, a knife that you're gonna use for aggressive cutting, right, might actually be better not taken to a polished uh surface because it maintains what they call kind of micro serrations on the microscopic level, even though it doesn't look serrated at all. It's like little imperfections at the at the surface of the of the edge help to uh basically break through things like tomatoes that you would otherwise crush as the knife begins to dull, right?
+
+[36:26] Whereas the Japanese style of sharpening is to take it down to a mirror mirror edge, right? Also, whether like so in general, I tend to use, and most chefs don't, they they kind of poo-poo them, but I tend to use diamond stones, specifically these composite diamonds, flat diamond stones made by I think uh uh we'll we'll look it up on the blog, but like DMT or something like that, or DMZ, some of that, and they're flat uh with a diamond and I use the fine and the ultra fine. Uh, and I like them, and then chef, and I use them basically dry with with water with oil. Um I use tech, I tend to use water. Uh you know, chefs poo-poo them and then they use them and they're like, damn, my knives are sharp.
+
+[37:03] You know what I mean? Uh, if you're gonna sharpen a lot of knives at a time, an interesting system was built by the Edge Pro because a lot of the reason why your knife aren't sharp, it doesn't really matter how good your stone is or how good your knife is, your hand's not that good. You're not really sharpening the knife properly because you're not maintaining proper uh contact angles when you're sharpening, right? Or you haven't learned to feel the burr on the edge of the knife. Typically, what you're doing gonna do is sharpen one side of the knife until it rolls a burr over on the edge very slightly, and you'll feel for that with your finger by dragging along the knife for the burr, then you'll turn it over and you'll take that burr off, and then you'll progressively go softer and softer.
+
+[37:35] And then afterwards, I even leather strop it because I find that a leather strop is a is a nice way to kind of refine the edge. Um, but uh so the Edge Pro system uh is good if you're gonna sharpen a lot of knives. It's a it's a little hokey if you're gonna sharpen one because you've got to set up this big system. Uh I would recommend you learn how to freehand sharpen a knife just by eye, but it takes a takes a lot of practice. You know, what particular knife you buy depends on your particular cutting style.
+
+[37:58] If you're used to the German and French styles with kind of a thick bolster on them, you know, stay with them. They're not, they're they're not they're not bad. Well, most chefs I know ships uh have uh switched over to Japanese Western style, and Japanese Western style typically have a much much thinner blade that people have become uh accustomed to now. When you switch to them, if you've never used them before, you're gonna get a different set of blisters and calluses on your fingers, and it might hurt for the first couple of weeks that you use them because you're not used to choking up on such a knife with such a thin edge in the back. But most chefs that I know now use Japanese Western style blades.
+
+[38:27] What I don't like about a Japanese Western blade is they're typically sharpened more on one side than on the other. And I find it for me difficult to sharpen, although most chefs don't have that problem. I don't like it. Uh the uh typical Western style blade is sharpened um on both sides an equal amount. I either like a Western style knife or uh on the extreme other side, traditional Japanese uh knives, which are sharpened almost like a chisel, where it just has one bevel edge that's fairly easy to maintain, and then you take it off uh off the burr off the back by holding the knife almost flat against your sharpening stone.
+
+[38:59] I find traditional Japanese knives to be incredibly easy to sharpen. And I find you don't need to buy the most expensive ones to have the good time. Go to go to Corin, uh K-O-R-I-N.com, get their get their house brand of uh of you know original Japanese style uh knives, get like a Deba, get like uh a Yanagi, which is a slicer, and they're not gonna break the bank. They're like, you know, a hundred dollars a piece, and as long as you maintain them, you have to sharpen them almost every time you use them. Uh they're gonna be unbelievable performers for you.
+
+[39:28] And then if you nick the edge, because they're fragile, don't cut bones with them, please. You know what I mean? Like, but if you nick the edge, you know, you haven't lost a $500 knife. So if you're gonna want to go into Japanese knives, traditional Japanese knives, which I highly recommend, then I would get one of those. But you don't need to listen to all the mystical hoo-ha necessarily.
+
+[39:43] I don't think I'm gonna get a lot of nasty comments about this, about the way, you know, exactly using the right watering stone. If you get one of these new really good diamond stones, and go on, you know, the knife forms and check it out, see what people say about it. Don't take my word for it. Uh, you know, you'll see that they're pretty good performers, uh, you know, if you if you use them properly, and I sharpen my Japanese knives on them all the time. Uh so that that's what I would that's what I would recommend doing.
+
+[40:07] And one last story before we go. Uh there is a uh there's an interesting problem I was thinking about, uh a bunch of related problems about when going to a restaurant. You ever go to a restaurant and it's really loud, all of a sudden it gets really, really loud all of a sudden? Yeah. So there's this uh there's this phenomenon that was first brought up in 1959, originally called the cocktail party effect, but now called the cafe effect.
+
+[40:27] And and but there's actually another problem called the cocktail party problem, and then another thing called the Lombard effect, and they're all uh interrelated. And what it is is the cafe effect is that you can have a normal conversation with uh a group of people, and more people show up at the party, you can have a normal conversation, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah. And then all of a sudden, one more person shows up and everyone starts shouting. Right? Okay, yeah.
+
+[40:48] Yeah, yeah. So basically it's like this kind of threshold effect where one more one more body shows up and bam, everyone starts shouting. And it has to do with a set of differential equations, basically, where uh, you know, all of a sudden that little bit, you now talk a little bit louder uh to be heard, the other group talks a little bit louder, you talk a little louder, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah, until everyone starts shouting to a point where it becomes uncomfortable to shout anymore, and then everyone just moves closer together. So that's the cafe effect used to be called the cocktail party effect, first brought up by a guy named uh McLean in 1958 or 59 in the Journal of American Acoustics. Dude was clearly joking.
+
+[41:22] I went back and read the paper because he was like, these are just first-order approximations, and he was talking about apartments and parties and and bad guessing and stuff like that. So he was clearly having fun with it. Uh, but it got picked up in the in the literature in acoustics, uh, and then got folded into a separate problem called the cocktail party problem, which is interesting in physics and interesting to the CIA, because the CIA really wants to be able to pick signals out of the air and analyze them so that they can tell what you're doing, even if you're on a bunch of other problems and uh uh doing a bunch of other things. And so the cocktail party problem now, if you Wikipedia it what it refers to is your ability in a cocktail party to tune out uh everything else and listen to somebody's conversation, even though there's a lot of competing uh information in the air. And it relies uh very heavily on the fact that we have two ears, and so if someone has a hearing deficit in one ear, it's why they have such an impossible time understanding conversation in crowded rooms, and which is why you should be nice to them and look at them so that they can see your mouth and stuff like that.
+
+[42:14] So uh so that's the the cocktail party problem, and they're all related to something interesting called the Lombard effect. And the Lombard effect is the effect where uh you instinctively talk louder when people around you are louder. Where you just it it's it's it's instinctive, and in fact, it's the way people it's the way uh experts test to see if you're lying about your hearing deficit. If you start talking louder as as uh talking is ramped up around you, because it's a reflex, you can't help it. They're like, you're a liar, you're a faker.
+
+[42:44] Anyway, so uh the cafe effect, uh the cocktail party effect, and the Lombard effect. Three related interesting uh phenomena that you might notice at your next cocktail party or if the restaurant is too dang loud. This has been Cooking Issues and come back next Tuesday. Cooking issues on the Heritage Radio Network brought to you this week by the Barter House. Oh, you dead.
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+[0:00] The following episode of Cooking Issues has been sponsored by Acme Smoked Fish. Located in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, Acme has been a mainstay in New York's culinary landscape for over fifty-five years. Using old world recipes, ACME produces the finest smoked salmon, white fish, and sable that discerning palates demand. For more information on where to find Acme, Blue Hill Bay, or Ruby Bay products, please visit www.acme smokedfish.com. Dave, you're on.
+
+[0:51] Cooking Issues, Cooking Issues Radio. Dave Arnold coming to you live from Germany, where I'm at the Berlin Cocktail Conference. I have Nastasha sitting uh in the studio in Brooklyn. He's there in the study. Hi, Dave.
+
+[1:04] Hey, yeah, so uh this uh this radio show is being literally phoned in, I'm phoning it in from Berlin on my iPhone. So if I click or pop, yeah, you'll know you'll know why. And uh Nastasha, thanks so much for putting uh Phil Collins on as our intro music today. I uh appreciate that. Couldn't find your song.
+
+[1:23] Yes, I know everyone likes the Phil Collins every now and again, so that's that's uh perfect. Everyone has two ears and a heart, Dave. Exactly, exactly. All right, all right. So listen, so uh Nastasha, can you read the numbers since I don't have it in front of me and for some reason I cannot commit it to memory?
+
+[1:38] Yes. If you want to call in and ask questions to Dave, who's in Germany, the number is seven one eight four nine seven two one two eight. Seven one eight four nine seven two one two eight. I would really like it if someone from Germany called New York to ask me a question while I'm in Germany. We'll see if we can see if we can get that going.
+
+[1:55] Um and we'll be here uh live for the next uh forty-five minutes or so, and uh meanwhile I'm gonna take some email questions. So uh one of our uh favorite uh blog readers, Schinderhannes, wrote actually from Germany, but not from Berlin. Uh and he says um uh wait away, where's oh, he said why are the two most uh important beverages in Germany, beer and apple juice, beer for adults and apple juice for kids, use so rarely in cocktails, and do you have any good recipes for these ingredients? Schinderhannes is an excellent question. Um the problem with apple juice and cocktails is that apple juice is relatively diluted.
+
+[2:30] So most cocktails that are produced in bars, and therefore also most recipes that are written for them are are based on the idea that you're going to make a drink and then dilute it with uh you know, chill it and dilute it with ice. Now the the problem is is that if you're using um apple juice, by the time it's chilled uh and diluted, it's just much too watery. So you don't have you either you're not gonna have enough uh uh alcohol in it, and you're also not getting to have enough flavor of the of the apple juice. And so I think that's the reason why uh there aren't that many drinks using it. Now, of course, the solution to this is to um is to chill your uh drinks beforehand, right, or mix them cold and then chill them down so that when they're mixed together, you don't have to dilute it a lot with uh with ice.
+
+[3:12] A really good technique is to actually freeze the ice cubes in uh freeze the apple juice into ice cubes and then shape with the frozen uh apple juice, and this way, as it's chilling and diluting, you can get it really cold, the same as a standard cocktail, about minus seven Celsius. But uh as it's diluting, it's diluting with apple juice. Uh and that this technique works really well and something we do a lot. I like um I like uh apple juice and whiskey, I think it's really good. When we use apple juice, though, we're often making our own apple juice and we'll uh we'll juice it with uh some ascorbic acid as an antioxidant so that the apple juice stays stays c uh clear I mean sorry stays green and or or yellow if it's a yellow apple or red if there's a lot of red skin and then uh but it doesn't oxidize the important part and then often we'll clarify it uh and and mix it.
+
+[3:57] So we do a lot of work with that. We'll do we've done apple and tequila we've done apple and and bourbon. Most of the time we we we're only doing the apple juice in a spirit because we tend to use very high quality uh apples uh and we really want to show the flavors that that uh of the specific apple. Most apple juice once it's allowed to oxidize and clarify traditionally uh the taste uh differences are muted somewhat so that's one of the reasons we like to do it fresh and uh some of our favorite apples are uh Ashmead's kernel which is an old English variety uh Spitzenberg which is an old American variety um but you know you you know any local variety that you like assuming it has a you know a high enough acid balance is i a good acid sugar balance you can use and of course you can correct acid sugar with uh malak acid which is the app acid from apples or you can uh you know obviously you can add more more sugar to it. Uh with regards beers there is like a there are a whole bunch of cocktails based on beers they're just not seen as often uh uh these days like you know sh shandy's we do a lot of really old school hot beer cocktails where uh we'll use uh like a beer uh usually an ale, usually not a lager, usually an ale, and uh and like either a brandy uh or sometimes uh a whiskey and then we'll flame it using uh our red hot poker which can basically uh it can ignite the drink you don't really need to ignite it, but you need to get uh something hot, like a hot stone or or just very hot uh implement with it, like with a with a lot of thermal wallop to it to give it the kind of burned flavors uh that are really characteristic of those old style drinks.
+
+[5:28] Uh and I really like to do that. I don't have any good modern beer recipes uh off the top of my head for cold cocktails, but they've become extremely uh popular in certain bars over the past uh three or four years uh in the States and I I think you're gonna see a return to more beer-based cocktails in the future, especially in restaurants that have um uh they don't have a liquor license, right? So they can't serve liquor, but they can serve uh wine or beer. And so these places do a lot of interesting work with wine-based cocktails and uh beer-based cocktails. But unfortunately I don't have any uh good recipes right off the bat.
+
+[6:03] Uh what do you think, Styles? Do you think that's good the good answer or not? Yeah, I think that's a good answer. Have you been drinking a lot of beer out there? Uh I've had some beer.
+
+[6:10] So there's a characteristic beer from Berlin called uh Berlin Weiss uh that is uh they sweeten it with the one I had with uh Woodruff uh syrup so it's green. It's just like big goblet of green beer and it's a little sweet so I couldn't drink a lot of them but whenever I go somewhere I like to try the characteristic uh beverage of the area but the person I ordered from it told me that it was it was mainly a lady's drink. But I did enjoy it. I did enjoy it. So it was and I have been drinking drinking quite a bit of beer.
+
+[6:37] We have a collar. Um oh we have a caller? Yes. Hello caller you're on the air. Hi there.
+
+[6:43] I'm Colin Gorg. I'm living down in Washington DC. And uh recently I've been trying to make I've been making sweet grass vodka for quite a while. I've got a sweetgrass patch. I've just been usually just soaking it for a couple days.
+
+[6:59] But when I saw the uh method you use with the EC panister, I tried doing some with uh you know, pressure pressurizing with some nitrous oxide and trying to sort of blast some of the fresh grassy flavor out. But something kind of curious happened. Uh when I did it, I used you know same concentrations I usually do. Uh and let it pressurize it with two charges, uh let it sit for a couple minutes, about between two and three minutes, let the gas out, and it didn't look too heavily colored. It was like very lightly so I let it sit overnight in the fridge, like we used to do, and you know, it kind of looked the emerald thing that it usually has, but it's now been like maybe a week later, and whereas the regular stuff will be you know still this kind of emerald color.
+
+[7:58] This stuff has turned very tawny, very almost like uh watered down coffee or tea color. And what's the flavor again? I couldn't hear the very first part. What was that? What's it saying?
+
+[8:09] What was the flavor again? I couldn't hear. Uh sweetgrass. Oh, sweetgrass, okay. Um, all that.
+
+[8:17] I mean I would bet, right? Like my guess just off the beginning, and and I don't know whether that the the main question is the main question about the color? Yeah, but the color also the flavor profile is a little different. There's like usually it's kind of very vanilla-y and grassy. There's still the kind of like grassy vanilla thing, but there's also a more I don't know, almost like brandied cherry thing that's not usually there.
+
+[8:41] Uh so I was just wondering if you know, it's kind of the chlorophyll is getting blasted apart and that's what caused it to change color, or if you got any, you know, potential ideas about what might be going on. Yeah, I mean, I would almost guarantee that you're breaking some cells when you're doing it and thereby releasing some enzymes and the enzymes are getting to work uh busy oxidizing and creating some of those brown flavors. I mean that would be my guess. Now I think that you know uh it's it's definitely tr so like if for instance when I'm doing an herb that I know it has a tendency to go brown, when I do it, um I'm trying to be as careful as I can and use not br uh herbs that aren't bruised and also to not um and to not shake it real hard. I just swirl it around when I use those because I want to minimize breakage.
+
+[9:28] Uh but also uh you know, we've had some luck, but not great luck, uh doping it with a little bit of an antioxidant. The problem is it's also then gonna add acid, so it's gonna change the flavor, like ascorbic acid. You could use sodium uh metabisulfite instead as an antioxidant, but I've haven't tried it, so I can't talk about its efficacy. Now, the difference in flavor between the two, I think you have two different things going on. Uh and I I again I can't really judge like which one is uh is working.
+
+[9:55] And by the way, for people who don't know what we're talking about, go on to cookingissues dot com and look up uh I guess infusion uh and I ISI or EC, and you can see it's this technique where we do very rapid infusions of flavor in uh in whipped cream makers, and uh, you know, for me it's really it's really a good technique because it allows us to do something um that we would normally use a vacuum machine to do, which is very expensive, and you could do it, you know, fairly easily. And you can do it at home, you could do it in a bar, it's it's friendly. Um, but uh the flavor t the flavor profiles are different than they are with the traditional infusion that takes a long time. And so I think um it not necessarily better or worse, just different. So it's m the I think it's true that you're gonna extract different flavors using this technique uh than you would um you using a traditional uh longer technique, right?
+
+[10:44] But I think the longer the product stays in there, the less the difference is gonna be. But I also think you're probably getting some flavor change based on the oxidation. Don't you think so? I think that the actual oxidation is going to change the flavors. What do you think?
+
+[10:57] Yeah. Yeah, I think so. But it this is almost, you know, in uh in a pleasant way. So it's a little bit I was just curious if uh yeah. No, I guess it could be something enzymatic too, kind of breaking breaking things down a little different.
+
+[11:09] But uh Right. Well as soon as something oxidizes, right? I mean that's the thing I think people don't people so when you add something like a like an antioxidant, like ascorbic acid, for instance, too, and we're talking a little bit about this in the in the last uh question. When you add something like this, uh, you know, yes, you're preventing oxidation, uh which is a visual cue that something's going on, but it also radically changes the taste. You know what I mean?
+
+[11:29] I mean that's why apple juice, for instance, doesn't brown apple juice doesn't taste like fresh apples, is because it's gone through this oxidation procedure. It's not just that it's been heated, although that also changes it. And it's not just it's been clarified, but the actual oxidation where it goes brown is is changing the the characteristic flavor of a fresh apple into the characteristic flavor of the of the apple juice. So I think you might have some of that going on. And I think you also might have uh just perhaps a different extraction of things from it in general, you know?
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+[11:56] Yeah. So are there some other uh instances where you notice that oxidation has maybe actually like improved flavor? Because uh or is it generally a negative trend that you've uh uh I mean I think it depends. People really like um uh apple juice. Do you know what I mean?
+
+[12:11] Yeah. And so oxidized apple juice, I mean, it's not what I'm shooting for, so I tend to go uh try to make it taste as fresh as possible. But again, oxidation there is not uh bad, it's just it's just different. We normally associate it as being negative because we're used to uh we're used to it being a negative characteristic, and for instance, in things like pesto, and I think most herb oxidation, like like basal oxidation and cilantro oxidation has a very characteristic flavors, and we're we're we we kind of shun those flavors, and so it takes on a bad name, but there's nothing inherently bad about oxidation. I think I might have to story w once on the on the cooking issues before, but I'll say it again real quick.
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+[12:48] There is uh, you know, I pretty sure I said it, but they you know, Reese's peanut butter cups, which I won't use their name, but it's Reese's peanut butter cups. They uh they're characteristically oxidized, the fat's oxidized a little bit in the peanut butter, and that's the characteristic taste of the Reese's peanut butter cup. And if you actually put oxygen scavengers in the packaging so that it doesn't oxidize a little bit, nobody thinks it tastes like a Reese's peanut butter cup anymore, and they don't want to buy it. So it's um you know, yeah, so oxidation it it you know it's it's all in the eye of the of the eater or in the mouth of the eater, I guess. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[13:20] Yeah. Anyway, I hope that answered your question. Thanks for calling in. And uh you just post something to the blog if you have more results with the sweetgrass, because I'm interested. We haven't used any uh sweetgrass infusion.
+
+[13:29] So uh so yeah, yeah, I'll call it. Um uh once we have some more systematic stuff, I'll put it together and show you guys. But thanks for your help. Very good. Thank you.
+
+[13:40] Uh all right. We should take a break. We have what? We should take a break. All right, so we're going to our first break, and we're gonna come back live from our our two continent cooking issues from New York and from Berlin.
+
+[14:00] Search no little runs starting. Asking all kinds of questions. No one is like all this time. I still remember you said I listened. How could I ever find this?
+
+[14:55] But I just cooked. Dave, you're on. Hey, welcome back to Cooking Issues. Coming to you live on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday, even when I'm in Germany. Uh so we're coming to you live as like I said, Stasi's on the studio in Brooklyn, uh at Roberta's Pizza, and uh I am in the Berlin Cocktail Conference in Berlin.
+
+[15:15] So uh Duncan from Sacramento writes in. Oh, I by the way, call in your questions. We're still here for about another half hour or so. Nastasha, give him the number. All right, Duncan writes in from Sacramento and says he's been trying to make a stable foam from beer.
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+[15:32] So he's had a couple beer questions, if I like to see all these questions are working together today. Uh, I think it could be interesting to do a beer mousse or deconstruct a black and tan. However, I've not been able to get a dense and stable foam. Pegan hasn't worked, and I'm not sure gelatin would set up well in the presence of alcohol. Now, Duncan, if you're looking to do a traditional mousse uh style texture with gelatin, I guarantee you, gelatin will set uh the beer fine.
+
+[15:54] First of all, beer's not that high in alcohol. It's so it will affect it a little bit. You might have to use a little more jelly than you would normally use, but it's definitely gonna work. I've done gillets of champagne many times with gelatin and and and it works fine. If you want to make uh not a mousse, but just something that's dense and foamy, uh, get a really good result.
+
+[16:12] Uh I will steer you to the same technique as Sam Mason, uh formerly of uh Atlas WD50 and Taylor restaurant, uh, currently has a bar, his name for some reason because in Germany it's escaped me. He uses a product called methylcel uh F50, which is a methyl cellulose product that is uh basically can whip anything into uh a mousse. Uh it's not a mousse, really a foam, but like dense, you know, not quite as dense as shaving cream, but much denser than your normal foams that you make, uh like an egg white. It's like an egg white meringue. And in fact, we use it to dehydrate uh foams into meringues.
+
+[16:47] Uh and I think we have a recipe somewhere on the blog, don't we, Stasi for that? Or F50 and the hydrocholor problem? Yeah. Uh and so, and so he famously made a Guinness foam using uh methylcel F50, uh, and it makes a nice dense, stable, um, like a little bit thicker than the head on a Guinness, but like of that kind of nature. And so that's a really good technique.
+
+[17:06] Another one that you can use uh if you don't like uh methylcel, uh you can buy methylcel, I think at a retail at Le Sanctuaire's website and also Terra Spices website. And um some people have a little bit of a gripe with methylcel because uh it's one of the only things we use that's not you know, quote, all natural. It's not a chemical that is natural, it's modified cellulose pro uh product. So then uh people have a problem with that. Sometimes we'll use uh something called VersaWhip, which is basically uh they have a soy-based VersaWhip, which is soy protein uh as a whipping agent, and they have uh uh casein, milk-based protein versa whip.
+
+[17:43] That you can also get at I think at both of those suppliers and those can whip things into a denser foam I find versa whoop to be difficult to use I think methyl cell F50 and remember F50 don't get a different methyl cell F like Frank 50 uh that one I think is really easy to use it whips up like an egg white uh you might have to add a little bit of a thickener uh like I don't know Zansangum or Maltodexin or something to the to the beer to get it to warm up nicely but uh should work. Um we have a collar. So oh we have a collar? Yes. Uh all right call you on the air.
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+[18:15] Hello my name is Derek. I call I wrote in a couple weeks ago about a uh question about um velveting meat. Oh yeah yeah. Anyway thanks a lot for the info I thought was great. Um I had another question I wanted to ask about today which is you mentioned a uh a week or two ago something I've heard before about um cooking sous vide that as long as you sear it you're basically safe because the inside of the meat is basically sterile.
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+[18:43] But I had to give this a second thought last week when I uh got a piece of monk fish and found some worms crawling out of it. I wanted to ask about um dealing with pterasites and if you had some uh because those obviously you know aren't only on the surface but I know they're easier to kill than a lot of bacteria but I wonder if we could address the uses of those and how you might go about using doing it. Alright that's an interesting question. You picked monk fish which obviously is full of parasites also codfish full of parasites uh worms I mean uh luckily I don't know about muk mufffish but uh the ones in in codfish aren't going to infect you but they're incredibly disgusting. You know what I mean?
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+[19:19] Um and the um you know and in general, but the the the same thing holds true for traditional cooking and sous be there. So and so our discussion is basically when you're when you're cooking something sous vide often we don't cook things um enough to pasteurize them, enough to kill all the bacteria that's present, right? And the reason we don't is often if you cook something that long the texture can be uh ruined. Right. So that's true on uh certain beef muscle cuts like uh uh tenderloin like filet I think if you cook it long enough to pasteurize it or temperatures where you're gonna pasteurize it that you can you can damage the uh the texture but it's definitely true on fish.
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+[19:56] You really it's very hard to cook most fish so that they're pasteurized because uh you don't ever really want to get them in general up to the temperatures they could pasteurize them and even when you do you don't want to hold them there that long exceptions like striped bass can take those kind of temperatures but uh so uh so you don't tend to pasteurize them. Now on something like contains a parasite like codfish or a monk the the fact of the matter is that when you're doing a traditional cook you're also probably not getting the internals up high enough to to be any different than you would in Sous vide because uh but you are overheating you are really searing the outside and killing it. So I think my point with safety in Sous vide is that uh I don't think it's any less safe than the traditional method. Does that make sense at all or no? No that makes perfect sense.
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+[20:38] Um you know what it does I don't know I know that uh a lot of these worms and things can be killed just by freezing or at much lower temperatures than a lot of bacteria and such so I assume that it only makes it safe so unless I'm making sushi out of it it's probably okay. Does that sound about right? Yeah if you buy a sushi grade first first of all like there's different w there's obviously there's parasites in fish that will infect you and those are the ones that they get rid of by uh freezing it. So anytime you're gonna buy a sushi grade fish, it's been frozen to kill off those parasites, right? So once you're dealing with a sushi grade product, you're you're good to go.
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+[21:13] Um with regards to like the worms on a big piece of codfish, let's say my I have to go research because I have research. My recollection is that those are merely gross and not harmful. But um I could I'm not gonna swear on I'm not gonna tell people that you know on the radio because I haven't looked into it. But um but I also think that they're pr like you said, I think they're probably fairly easy to kill. And that if you're you know but the I that's why like I'd be a little worried about doing super low temperature work on a fish that's gonna have a lot of parasites um because then you know you'd you know you might get one of those suckers wriggling out of the plate and that would be that would you know customers running out like free meals you know it'd be it would be a nightmare you know a huge nightmare.
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+[21:58] Um and we've all seen like worms coming out of cod or out of monk fish. I mean they're just there. You know what I mean? And so like for instance the the famous low temperature cod recipe, extreme low temperature cod recipe, uh is uh by uh one roca uh from the uh the Sous vide book that came out a number of years ago in Spanish which is you know uh you know one of the first books on SunD a really good book. Uh Stas, you still there I heard a click.
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+[22:21] Yeah and think the other guy yeah yeah it's uh it's uh sorry we have to do this up in Germany. But that that recipe is uh famous but um it was mistranslated as cod. So people basically said that they they were heating codes extremely low temperature like 100 Fahrenheit. Uh and in fact it was salt cod where all of the uh that was reconstituted sa salt cod bacalau and so you know all the worms are obviously killed. But anyway.
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+[22:46] What do you think Saz is that good answer? I think that's a good answer, Dave. Too bad we lost the guy now. Hopefully that helps. I know it's yeah hopefully that helps so uh Duncan had a a second question, which is he's been trying to learn with cast iron, but he's been having trouble with food sticking intermittently.
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+[22:59] And he says, as far as he can tell the pan is seasoned, but sometimes omelets uh will stick to it and sometimes they won't. Well, I think this. I think I can't see your pan, obviously, because I'm in Berlin, but the and you're in Sacramento. But um can look seasoned, but they're not really seasoned as well as if they had been uh seasoned for years and years of use. So the the initial seasoning isn't really enough to make something kind of bulletproof nonstick.
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+[23:22] First of all, nothing's bulletproof nonstick. But I think what's probably happening is you probably have a couple of high spots in the pan that can cause adhesion, and then once it adheres, it it adheres pretty well to that point. And so maybe you didn't get a coating of oil uh over one particular section or it dried out, or somehow you got adhesion to the pan, and that the more you use it, the less and less it's gonna stick. Uh and you know, espe especially these newer cast iron, they're they're rougher and surface. I tend to find that you know, until you build up a really good season on them, they're not really uh, you know, even though some people theoretically think that the roughness is gonna help you in nonstick uh phenomena, I don't I don't happen to be one of those people who who believes it.
+
+[24:00] I mean, I think there's been a lot of discussion on that on the blog. If you look at the blog on the this, I think it's called what's it called, Sazie? Like heavy metal the science of cast iron or something like this. Yeah. Uh I haven't researched it uh recently, but you know, my my thoughts fresh from the research are are in that post if uh if anyone wants to go back and look at it.
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+[24:17] Um Chris Anderson writes in and uh he says he enjoys the show, which we appreciate, right, Sazi. Uh and he says, what is the correct ratio in making a simple syrup? Every recipe I find seems to have a different proportion of sugar to water. Uh, does the dilution depend on the application? Uh and then and then he goes, he adds a question about the shelf life of the syrup, uh, should it be stored in the fridge, etc., etc.
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+[24:37] Will that make the sugar crystallize? And he's noticed that it when he infuses things into it, like lavender or lemongrass, it tends to last uh not very long before it starts to mold on the top uh and that sugar seems to last longer. Can you extend the shelf life, etc., etc.? These are all interesting questions. First of all, let me start by saying that there is no correct there's no correct uh simple syrup recipe.
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+[24:58] Like there's all different ratios that you can use, and uh what's but but the uh particular recipe isn't going to taste the same as what the writer intended unless you use the same proportions that they asked for. So uh I tend it uh we at the school tend to use what's called a two-to-one simple syrup, and and everyone makes a different bar in a bar uh uh place they tend to make their syrup based on volume because they don't have scales, they have cup measures. So they'll bake they'll make simple syrup based on volume. Now, luckily, standard American granulated sugar weighs about as close to the same as water on a volume basis, just lucky. So they they you know, uh a weight simple syrup and a uh and a volume simple syrup are about the same when made with US granulated sugar.
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+[25:44] Now uh in a bar they tend to make one-to-one simple syrup because they're not heating it even. They're using super actually, they're using super fine syrup, which is gonna make it sweeter because it's denser. So erase what I just said. But they're using super fine sugar, which which uh which dissolves very quickly, and they're stirring it because they don't necessarily have a heat source right there, and they want to be able to make their simple syrup without heat. So they tend to make a one-to-one simple syrup uh and they tend to do it by volume, and they tend to with super fine sugar.
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+[26:10] So, like that should be like that's if a bar recipe just says simple syrup one-to-one, that's probably what they mean. Now, uh another reason that bartenders tend to use uh a lighter simple syrup like that is because it pours a lot faster and you leave a lot less syrup in the bottom of your jigger. The downside of it is that uh that simple syrup also adds a lot more water for an equivalent amount of sweetness, so it can throw off the dilution in recipes uh in certain recipes. I tend to prefer to add sugar in the form of sugar and make a denser syrup simple syrup. So when usually unless I say otherwise, my simple syrup is two to one, two parts sugar to one part water by weight, and then heat it until it dissolves and then allowed to cool down.
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+[26:51] Uh and when I need it in a hurry, I do a four-part, I do four parts uh sugar to one part water, heat it until it dissolves, and then I throw ice cubes to chill it down quickly. And that's how I make it. Now, the more sugar you put in a simple syrup, uh, the uh the more sugar you put in simple syrup, the less chance you're gonna get of mold developing. A one-to-one simple syrup is definitely gonna mold over time. If you store it in the fridge, it's not gonna mold over time.
+
+[27:17] Uh I don't think I've never really had them go moldy in the fridge. Um, but um, yeah, then you have to devote storage space to it in in the fridge. A two-to-one simple syrup probably won't mold as much. It'll still mold if it's outside, and you keep it in the in the fridge as well. Now you might get some crystallization in your two to one, but you're not gonna get that much crystallization in your two to one.
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+[27:36] I wouldn't worry about it so much. Um, when you're infusing a syrup, the question uh whether or not you know what kind of shelf life you're gonna get out of it, a lot depends on, and by the way, if you have to leave your simple syrup out, uh, because you know, whatever, you don't have free space or whatever, if you're gonna keep it for a long period of time, if you you know, once a week just you know bring it up almost to the boil and let it drop down again, you're going to you're going to kill the mold in it and you get to extend the shelf life again. Because it's not going to get unsafe on you. Now, when you're doing an infusion of something, uh, you know, like an herb or whatnot, you're probably getting more uh water and it also depends if you're gonna boil the the thing that you're infusing with it with the sugar, right? Then uh, you know, you might be killing some stuff into it, but you're probably introducing some some spores and whatnot, some mold into it, and um you're probably also giving it more of a substrate to act on.
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+[28:28] So that might be one of the reasons that you're getting more spoilage. I haven't um researched any specific, you know, mold inhibitors, although that's an interesting question. Maybe we should look into it, Stasi. But uh, I think you're gonna definitely increase the life of those things by putting them in the fridge. And I don't think that any crystallization, uh definitely not on a one-to-one and even on a two to one.
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+[28:48] I've had two to one in my fridge for months, and you know, you'll get a couple of crystals around the bottom of it, but not a huge, huge deal. Um, so in terms of consistency, I I I don't think there's a best or a worst. There's what fits your cooking style best. We have both one to one and two to one around. It's all about being consistent from uh time to time.
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+[29:08] Um they're telling me. Oh. All right, so we're taking a break, coming back with the last segment of cooking issues, you still have time to call in the house. Okay, Dave, you're on. All right, welcome back to Cooking Issues.
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+[30:51] Uh doing it to you in two time minutes. Go over in Berlin and we're in New York. Uh so some time to call in. Seven one eight four nine seven two one two eight. Seven one eight four nine seven two one two eight.
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+[31:06] So uh Jay wrote us and asked us a question about uh protein in flowers, and uh and he uh he or she says Jay referenced uh McGee, Harold McGee. And so rather than answer this question, I'm just telling you, Jay, I'm gonna wait because Harold McGee is actually gonna come and teach a class in less than two weeks. Uh what are the dates again, Sasha? October twenty first and twenty-second. That's a Thursday and Friday.
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+[31:29] Right. So Harold McGee is actually coming to the French culinary all day, all day. Two-day class. He's coming to teach the Harold McGee class. We'll probably put something up on the blog, uh, in advance of it.
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+[31:39] Uh, but anyway, I'm gonna be spending some quality time with him, and you can too if you want. There are still spots. Uh go to the uh FCI website, French Culinary.com and look for the Harold McGee Lecture Series. But uh I'm gonna spend some quality time with him, and he is really up on uh these kinds of things and has done a lot of research. So Nastasha, I'm gonna put the the the protein question, uh flour protein question down as a whole because I want to give Jay a better answer uh when we're hanging with McGee.
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+[32:07] Um now uh we have a question. Uh let me see if I can find it. Uh and the thing is, uh when I cook for my this is uh Teddy, Teddy DeVico writes in and says, When I cook for my family, my dad to not eat salt or any food that contains salt, so I have to cook salt uh cook well without salt for him. I still cook for the rest of my family with salt. He did not believe that salt can make food drastically better, but I tell him it does.
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+[32:32] Why does salt make food taste better? Uh and is there any way to make food taste good without salt? Uh uh and by the way, Teddy does not think it is possible. Uh so uh uh you're right, it's not possible. Uh it's it turns out that uh salt, and I don't know whether your dad uh dislikes salt or whether or not he ha is one of the you know few people that is actually sensitive to salt from a uh blood pressure uh situation, but I mean salt, sodium chloride is uh is uh 100% necessary to uh your survival as a human being.
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+[33:07] Okay. So you know, your neurons don't work without sodium. Like, you know, we we don't work. There is no life uh for us without sodium, and we don't make it ourselves. So we a we have to take it in.
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+[33:18] In fact, mammals uh and other things, even humans, although there's some controversy about how it works because uh no, there's some controversy. But we have what's called salt appetite. So other than thirst where you're like I'm thirsty, I need liquid, the only other thing that works that way is salt where there's like you have a salt uh appetite at least mammals do whether or not humans have the same kind of salt uh salt thing that that uh primates do is you know up for question so salt is definitely something you need but you don't necessarily need to sprinkle salt on things because food that you eat naturally contains uh more or less salt depending on on what it is naturally in the product meats have a certain amount of salt in them uh because they come from animals and animals contain sodium um but you know natural mineral waters contain sometimes a good bit of salt in them depending on which one you choose now there's plants that grow like uh for instance uh sam fear or sea beans grows on the on the seashore and it has so much salt in it that I don't I don't even need to add salt to my salads when I make it with that and I like salt a lot. So you know definitely um you know you're always consuming salt. Uh it's just a question of whether or not you add salt.
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+[34:23] So then the question is well um you know do you do you need to add salt to food? And for me, yes, you know you too. So for instance the classic food that's that sucks without salt is bread, right? And so you know everyone in the world loves Tuscan cuisine myself included. I love it.
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+[34:38] Except for the bread is horrible. Right Stasi come on the bread's hard no we've got wine we've had this discussion I don't mind it I like to say it's horrible. Well here's a Stasi thinks that you can sprinkle salt on Tuscan bread and all of a sudden make it real bread. Yes. I completely disagree because I have baked breads where you accidentally forget to put the salt in how many out there is this happen to you forget to put the salt in and then you pray that you can make it better by adding salt.
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+[35:01] You c here's why you can't. Because first of all the salt's not throughout the dough. And second of all the salt actually affects the texture because it affects the way the gluten works. And so you'll notice that the crust on a on a saltless bread, the reason Tuscan bread looks like crap on the outside, it's that sallow looking crust, is because they don't have salt. And the reason the texture is not as good is because they don't have salt.
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+[35:22] And the reason it doesn't taste good is because can you guess why Nastasha? It doesn't have salt. Right, because it doesn't have salt. Uh and you can't fix those problems just by sprinkling salt uh on on the on the outside. That's like rolling a turd in sequins.
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+[35:35] You know what I mean? It just doesn't work. Um now uh it you know so another place where salt is you know uh often useful not just from a taste standpoint is with meats because salt actually increases the uh water binding capacity of meat. So the uh you know when you brine something you're actually ensuring that it's gonna be juicier by uh applying some salt to it uh beforehand. So it's actually performing a functional characteristic there.
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+[36:01] Now the vast majority of the of the you know huge sodium intake by the way like our grand great grandparents' generation ate a boatload more salt than we do because they had to eat everything pr preserved or had to eat more preserved things than we do. And in fact they were more heavily salted preserved meats were more heavily salted in the old days than they are now because now uh we have uh refrigeration. I just read a uh scholarly paper, I forget what it is so I can't reference it, but they said that nothing dr more drastically reduced the salt intake of the population uh in general than the than the refrigerator because now all of a sudden we didn't need to salt anymore. So this a modern idea that we consume so much more salt now because of processed foods in quotes that than we used to is absurd because salt used to be like everywhere everything was salted down to preserve it uh you know prior to the advent of uh refrigeration. So uh so we love salt because we need it.
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+[36:54] It also makes things taste d delicious you know so salt affects uh first of all you don't need to salt a lot in other words you don't need to make something salty to have the salt uh have a benef beneficial effect like for instance a little bit of salt in a drink even if you can't taste the salt it's gonna round out uh the flavors it changes your perception of aroma so when you add uh salt to a broth it's actually changing the aroma of the broth because it alters uh the way the volatiles are basically like the the amount of them they're captured allows things to release the release come off and you actually get a stronger impact of volatiles and the aroma uh you know it tends to be synergistic so it makes other things taste better uh without even necessarily having the perception of salt and they try to get around that by adding uh things like MSG which can also increase the palatability of something without adding a lot more salt although uh gram per gram MSC adds uh about one third the sodium that uh salt does because we usually get mono monosodium glutamate it doesn't add as much salt per gram as uh sorry as much sodium per gram as salt does and it's the sodium people are worried about by the way most of the flavor comes from the sodium the chloride is kind of usually along for the ride right um so uh but the the other thing about MST even though it does have sodium in it you typically would use a lot less MSG than you would use salt because it's more potent. Um so anyway I mean it's a long way I don't know whether I've still I totally answer this question I mean I've kind of like it all depends on yeah I mean what what's what's wrong with his dad right? Like if it's for health reasons or if he just doesn't like salt. But I mean yeah I mean there's got to be some people that don't like salt. There's only like one or two groups of people in the world that are known to not add any salt.
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+[38:37] I always forget what they are. It's probably like it's probably like some like s like Inuit culture or something like that. There's but again, they're eating like you know, whale meat out of the out of the ocean. I can't I don't even remember whether it's in you what I just made that up. But there's very few cultures in the world that don't use salt, and it's because this stuff tastes good.
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+[38:53] You know what I mean? Um and uh maybe I'll do some more research on it and talk about it at at a a later point. And he says on another note, what do I think of uh Grant Agates' aviary bar? Grant Agates, uh as most of the readers will know, is the chef at uh Alinea, which is a uh a very, very fine restaurant. I've eaten there twice, had an extraordinary meals when I was there.
+
+[39:14] I have not been to the bar. Is it open yet for us? I have no idea. No. I do not know if it's open.
+
+[39:20] I hear they've had some YouTube videos up, so maybe maybe they are. But um I'm sure whatever Grant does is going to be good, but I just haven't uh tried it yet. Now, uh yeah, one more question from who's this one? Steve. Uh by the way, Steve uh says, PS, thanks for talking about the issues of tall cooks.
+
+[39:42] Uh we're trying to get uh Mark Ladner, right? He won't he won't talk often. Well maybe we'll I'll just get his we'll why don't you get his comments separately and we'll just say what he said about that. That's good. Yeah.
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+[39:56] So yeah, so we can we can uh we can do that. Uh but he's basically uh he's uh he's a physicist and he's interested in ice, and he was just talking about something really cool, which is he makes spherical lenses out of ice so that you can start fires outside. That's pretty cool, right? Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[40:14] So basically, you know, he says that you know, you could basically with your hands just take a block of ice and smooth it out, uh, you know, you know, heating it to make a a decent enough sphere to light a fire uh using it, which is I I think that's pretty cool. I'd like to try that. Um but so you're wondering about the the problems of making clear ice, because you need clear ice to make these these lenses. Uh and he um you know, he's talking about the difficulties in it, and uh have we talked about clear ice on the radio at all, Sazy, or not? I feel like we did, or maybe you touched on it a little bit, but not it not in depth.
+
+[40:48] Yeah, so basically, uh back in the day, uh prior to you know uh mechanical refrigeration, most ice that uh was used in uh in restaurants, bars, or in ice houses was harvested ice that was harvested from uh lakes and rivers in the wintertime, was sawn out in big blocks and then kept in huge insulated ice houses for use throughout the year. Now the benefit of this kind of ice is uh that it's formed in thin layers, as you know, Steve mentions. I mean he knows much better than I do because he's a uh physicist, but it forms in thin layers, and um what happens when it's forming in thin layers is that it uh the impurities in it, gas and any other actual dissolved impurities, don't get integrated into the uh crystal structure the crystal matrix of the ice. So when you're freezing in your in your in your freezer, here's what happens. You have an ice cube tray, it starts to freeze on the bottom, the impurities are getting concentrated in the center, as as are the dissolved gases, and then at a certain point the top of your ice cube freezes over, and then the inside, first of all, expands as it freezes, because ice expands as it freezes, and all the impurities are there and the gas is there, and you have a big like messy, you know, cloudy you know, ball in the middle of your ice cube.
+
+[41:56] You know what I'm talking about, right, Study? Right, right, yes. Yeah, right. So so that's what's happening. So lakes in lakes that doesn't happen because you're depositing thin layers that are constantly being washed and the layers are are built up and they're totally clear.
+
+[42:08] And as Steve points out, that's the same way icicles are formed, which is why icicles are also clear. So I guess you can maybe make a a good good lens out of that. The problem with doing it at home is uh is that it's just not easy. Even just degassing your ice cube phase in a vacuum machine isn't going to necessarily it's not gonna give you clear ice because the top will freeze over and as the inside expands and breaks the crystal structure and reforms, you'll get uh parts that are that are cloudy. Uh also um it's just difficult or or using distilled water won't solve the problem.
+
+[42:40] The only way to really solve it i is the way that the climb belt climb bell is m uh it's the ice uh manufacturers that make the machines for ice carvers, right? So ice ice carvers require clear ice. Uh and so uh bartenders have started using this when they call it climb bell ice, which is very clear, and it basically works like a lake upside down. They make sure that the freezing happens from the bottom of the cube up and they keep the water circulating on the top so that the top can't freeze over. And as it's built up slowly over the course of the day or so, because it takes uh forget, like between twenty-four and forty-eight hours to freeze one of these two hundred pound blocks in the climb belt, like as it's freezing slowly up, none of the impurities are incorporated and they're concentrated in the water that's on top.
+
+[43:21] And at the end they just drain that uh the the impure crappy water off the top and they're left with a block of perfectly pure crystal ice. And so that's how it's made. Now it's difficult to do at home, um, you know, unless you have like an anti griddle and you know, a chest freezer, but it's not something you can just kind of do in your freezer. But uh the good news is is that uh, you know, clear ice looks amazing and it's the only one that you can really carve well because it it's very easy to carve and it doesn't shatter, but it's not really gonna make your drink taste better. So that's the good news.
+
+[43:57] Anyway, Stasi, how are we doing on time? We're doing fine. I think we have like two minutes left, so say something. Yeah. All right.
+
+[44:05] So uh I will you know, relay uh what it takes to get stopped in the Dusseldorf airport in between flights and have basically a full body cavity search. So yeah, don't yeah. So don't leave your job at a cooking school after you do a demo with your folding box cutter. Which by the way, like everyone in the world should have a folding box cutter in their pocket at all times. Like in fact, the thing I hate most about traveling is that I can't have my folding box cutter with me unless I know where I can get blades for it.
+
+[44:36] So anyway, I go to JFK, which is our airport in New York, I take the box cutter out of my pocket and I uh discard the blade and put the empty box cutter, Sans blade, back in my pocket because I don't feel like I'm a human being unless I have a box cutter in my pocket, right? So the and you know, this probably says something bad about security in New York. I showed him the empty box cutter, I'm like, hey, it's a box cutter without a knife. What's the problem? Right, like, hey, right, what's the problem?
+
+[44:59] Let me through. I show up in Germany in Dusseldorf, and I have to go through security again. I show them I was like, you know, Eskap kein Mesa, you know, there's no no knife in there, right? But then they took they literally took apart everything, including my shoes, everything I own, took everything apart to look to see whether I had stashed a blade somewhere with my box cutter. And then they're looking through it and they see a box that I brought because I'm doing a cocktail demonstration here where we're testing uh temperature and I'm doing basically a recap of of the tails of the cocktail that I did with Ebon Clem and you can go see that on our blog about the cocktail science post.
+
+[45:32] So he finds this box with all these wires coming out of it, and he and and he's uh he's looking at me a little more than cross-eyed, and then and my German, by the way, is not so good. And then uh after that, he uh he finds a um I'm you know studying organic chemistry again, boning up on it, and I have a a chemical model set in my thing, and he C C sees chemistry wires, and a dude with a box cutter who I'm clearly disheveled, you know, from my flight. And so that's what it takes. That's what it takes to basically you know get the full smack down in the Dusseldorf Airport. So this has been your uh your your intercontinental cooking issues episode.
+
+[46:13] Uh thanks to Heritage Radio for making it happen. Uh thanks to Acme Fish. Thank you, Nastasha, and we'll see you next week. Looking for a fun night out? K1 Speed puts you behind the wheel for an adrenaline-filled time you and your friends will never forget.
+
+[46:42] Off the track, the fun keeps rolling with arcade games, great food, and drinks. They even have private party rooms for your birthday parties and corporate outings. Race hard, laugh harder, and claim your spot on the podium. K1 speed, more than racing, it's an experience.
\ No newline at end of file
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+[0:00] I'm Sam Edwards. I'm third generation cure master from S. Wallace Edwards and Sons in Surrey, Virginia. We support the Heritage Radio Network because we believe in the cause and what they're doing. They're supporting family-raised uh livestock, small family farms, uh certified humane, pasture-raised, antibiotic free.
+
+[0:20] Basically, we take the products from Heritage Food USA and make them into uh Serrano style hams, prosciutto style hams, bacon, sausage, like my grandfather did. You can find us at SurreyFarms.com or Virginia Traditions.com. Oh, you daddy. Got me on this corner. You're listening to Cooking Issues Radio on the Heritage Radio Network, coming to you live every Tuesday from 12 to 1245.
+
+[1:09] Um Dave Arnold, our host of Cooking Issues, and we're here with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. Call in all your questions to the studio at 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. So uh today we're being sponsored by uh S. Wallace Edwards, the ham company.
+
+[1:27] I happen to know Sam Edwards personally who makes that ham. Ham happens to be Country Ham particular, although I know Nastasha, you're more of a prosciutto head. That's true. Yeah. But American Country Ham happens to be uh one of my favorite subjects in the whole world, so I might maybe I'll talk for a second about country ham before we get into anything else.
+
+[1:43] Um Sam Edwards Country Ham, uh our sponsor today. Uh his family has been in Surrey for, you know, I don't know, probably a couple hundred years, something like that. Surrey is across the river from Smithfield, which is kind of the well-known name in American country hams. They don't really make a good country ham in Smithfield anymore. But uh, you know, Sam Edwards really does, and you know, he he mentioned that his grandfather started the business.
+
+[2:05] His grandfather actually wrote an interesting article uh back, I think in some time in the 60s, and it was about um peanut-fed hogs. It you used to be, you know, everyone talks about the Bayota fed hogs that you get out of uh out of Spain that make the best, you know, most delicious ham. And in fact, they do uh make delicious ham uh because the basically the acorns that these Spanish hogs eat give them a uh they have a lot of unsaturated fat and it changes the fat characteristics of the ham, which means that the ham has this awesome taste that you can't really get any other way. Uh but the only reason that's really preserved, I think in Spain is because the the economics are such that they're not allowed to chop down the forest where those nuts are produced, so that they have these, they have the ability to produce it, whereas we don't. Our hams used to kick a similar level of butt.
+
+[2:48] In fact, we're world kind of known. I mean, our curing techniques are are are amazing. And um, so Sam Edwards' grandfather actually wrote an interesting article, I think in the 60s, or it's quoted in one saying that ham production is going to hell in a ham basket because um being because we're not feeding the the peanuts anymore, we have a lower slaughter weight than we used to. Uh, because you know, the older a pig is when you kill it, the more the enzymes and the enzyme profile in an older hog is different from uh the one in a younger hog, and uh on a larger older hog, aside from being bigger that can take more age, also the enzyme profile is different, which is going to lead to a better tasting ham. So these are all things that we've done.
+
+[3:22] But that aside, American curing is totally different from any other kind of curing, ham curing, and it's a totally different product. Like should not be confused with prosciutto, should not be confused with the serrano. Like these are like, you know, uh actual American treasures. And so Sam Edwards is one of the few people who's, you know, a still a fairly large production, uh, in other words, you can buy it here in in New York. Um, you know, he can ship, he's USDA, that is doing a very traditional, you know, great American product.
+
+[3:44] And traditional with in Virginia would be kind of a heavy smoke on on his hams. And you can make sure you get ones for him that are you know a year a year or older. Uh and then actually I'm traveling tomorrow to Kentucky. I'm gonna uh tour another great ham producer, Finchville Farms. Finchville Farms uh out of Kentucky is another great old producer, and you know, a lot of the people who produce hams in Kentucky, so think Finchville, think um Colonel Newsom's, which is Nancy Mahaffey's ham place, these are people also who've been curing for hundreds of years, not them personally, but their families, you know, and a lot of these guys moved to Kentucky back when Kentucky was still Virginia.
+
+[4:20] Uh so anyway, so I will be uh visiting um I will be visiting Finchville Farms tomorrow, actually. It's the first time I've been there, so I'm excited, along with of obviously drinking a lot of bourbon. So probably probably talk about that more next week. Although next week, Nastasha, we might be doing the show live from London. Live from London, huh?
+
+[4:37] So we're gonna do this. Our second road show is gonna be in London. Because next next week uh we're going to be out in London doing the what's the name of the show we're doing, Nastasha? Do you even know? It's just called the London Cocktail Week.
+
+[4:48] And uh yeah. So we're doing rotary evaporation over there. Yes, with Oxley Gin. Yeah, which is a vacuum distillation technique for those of you who don't know what the heck I'm talking about. Uh right?
+
+[4:58] Yes. Yeah. Okay. Uh so anyway, uh, let's go on to some questions because we have some email questions from before. If I can just find them.
+
+[5:08] Um my gosh. Oh my gosh, Nastasha, I've lost the email questions. No, no. So the first one's an answer. First one's an answer.
+
+[5:16] Oh, that's right. So uh okay, so uh some of you might recall several weeks ago, uh, we tried to answer the question. What was her name again? What was her name? Uh Colleen was the big girl.
+
+[5:25] Yeah, Colleen. Uh she she's a very tall woman, and she was having problems with uh with countertops, countertop heights. And we call Mark Ladner. Uh Mark Ladner is the newest four-star chef in New York City because Del Posto, his restaurant, just got upgraded to four stars in the in the New York Times. So congratulations.
+
+[5:44] Um, and he is tall, he's six four, and so here's what he wrote back. We asked him, how do you deal with the with this problem of being very tall? He said, When when I was younger, I often hunched over, which was obviously horrible for my back and neck. Uh when I built El Posto, uh, had a kitchen designer uh who recommended a 42-inch counter, which is higher than our normal what, 36, 35 counter, which which he recently designed for Gray Kunz, who's also, I guess, tall. And he says that this counter is a lifesaver.
+
+[6:08] And he says, most except for the very short love it. And he doesn't see any reason why uh Colleen, right, should not be allowed to use her special adapter unless it's unsafe or unsanitary. And he hopes that that's helpful. Okay, so we have a we have a caller. Caller, you are on the air.
+
+[6:23] Hey, how's it going? Going well. Awesome. Well, I've always heard that um if you burn garlic when making a tomato sauce, it's gonna make your sauce bitter. I was wondering if you could tell me why.
+
+[6:34] Huh. Uh that is true story. Uh I don't know why. It kind of caught me uh uh off guard. I mean, gar garlic is pretty complex uh and easy to burn because it's got a uh high sugar content.
+
+[6:47] I think that's why it burns so easy. Uh but I don't like the that acrid burnt taste that you get. I don't know exactly what's going on. It has to be like all of the interesting stuff with garlic has to do. I mean, garlic doesn't really have that much uh of its characteristic um sharp pungent flavor until it's been cut.
+
+[7:04] Right. So what happens is is that there's enzymes in the garlic, and when you cut it or crush it, those enzymes are acting on um there's like they're the I always forget the names. It's like Al Alanin and alison and all these ala blah blah blahs like that are like these chemicals that start out being relatively odorless uh and then uh develop all of their all of their pungency uh after they're cut and then are modified more or less by cooking. And since those are the chemicals that lead to the pungency, I would think that those are also the ones that lead to kind of those acrid uh flavors when they when they're cooked or when they get burnt, but I can't say for sure. There is an excellent book out on the subject.
+
+[7:41] It's called um I believe it's called garlic and other alliums, something like that. That it's lore. I just bought it. I actually read it but it's very dense so I can't remember whether there was any explanation of it because it was too much to look into. But uh next week we have Harold McD we have a list of stuff to ask Harold from the radio show?
+
+[7:58] We can make one. Let's make a list and uh I'll ask him that whether he knows specifically what it is because it he's read that book and spoke with that person so he he's thought a lot about that kind of a problem. Uh that's something I should know off the top of my head but do not I I do know however when you pressure cook garlic it uh it actually destroys a lot of the of the pungency so that in fact you know how even when you roast garlic you when you roast it still if you eat a lot of it it comes out of your pores over the over the course of several days and and your coworkers don't want to be anywhere near you. Again I know this from awful experience. When you pressure cook garlic uh th those principles are gone and you can actually eat a whole bunch of garlic without in fact we make sauces that are s you know upwards of fifty percent garlic and no one has a problem with them and it's very mellow, mellow flavor, and it's because a lot of those sulfur containing compounds that are in the garlic that give it the its pungency are kind of destroyed by that by the high heat uh on the inside of a pressure cooker.
+
+[8:55] So uh we will we will keep a list. Uh okay. So um we have uh Colin Gore writes in and says he has a handful of things on his mind lately. So let's look at those handful of things that are that are on his mind. Uh Collins built a vacuum chamber using a compressor harvested from a window mounted air conditioner to make uh a vacuum.
+
+[9:12] I love this kind of DIY kind of you know, do it yourself kind of stuff. And he says it works wonderfully, uh, but he's wondering about running it for more than a few minutes at a time because he's afraid he's gonna burn it out. Uh, you know, I wouldn't worry about it so much. The kind of the the great granddaddy of websites dealing with uh this problem is uh called the Bell Jar, uh and a bell jar being the you know an old vacuum thing that you put things in vacuum, the bell jar. So the bell jar, and it's based on a bunch of articles published a long, long time ago in Scientific American, the amateur scientists, which were fantastic.
+
+[9:41] Like I had one when I was a kid, like how to build lasers, amazing stuff. Scientific Americans old amateur scientist column, freaking amazing, amazing stuff. Anyway, the Bell Jar has a list of these things uh and and it it talks a lot about making vacuum pumps cheaply out of air conditioning units and refrigeration units. And a lot of w what the capabilities of your unit are depend on whether it's a rotary uh pump or whether it's a piston pump. Most refrigerator compressors are uh you know piston pumps and they're not gonna operate near you know nearly as well at low vacuum as these as these rotary pumps are.
+
+[10:12] So uh, you know, um so a lot a lot of air conditioners have a rotary pump. So if as long as you keep the thermal overload switch on the on the pump, you should be fine because if it cuts out, it's not gonna get hurt. You also obviously have to make sure that you didn't let the oil drain out of it. Um, you know, otherwise it's gonna burn out very quickly. But you should be able to run it no problem.
+
+[10:30] If it's overheating, you'll be able to tell because it's exposed. He also makes a uh a good note. Uh please uh don't just cut out a uh um you know a compressor out of an air conditioner and let the freon spray everywhere because you're opening yourself up to a fine and you're destroying the environment. I might also say don't use a saw when you're cutting a a compressor off of something because the little filings can get into the compressor and then that's bad, bad, bad, bad news. Colin has more questions, but first I think we're gonna go to a caller.
+
+[10:56] Caller, you are on the air. Hello, it's Joe here from London Dave. Hey, how you doing? We'll be out to see you in a just a couple of we'll be out in London in just a couple of days. Oh, great.
+
+[11:05] I hope to meet up with you. We've been really inspired by your uh blog and uh the show over here. Oh, I appreciate it. I appreciate it. Dave, my question is um I'd like to prepare um large prawns or I guess langustin or you may call them shrimp, I'm not sure.
+
+[11:19] Right. Um I want to prepare them ahead of time, uh sous vide. Uh, and then finish them off on a grill so I can get some kind of mailard on them. Um I'm just not sure um what kind of temperature to cook them at and for how long. Right.
+
+[11:33] All right. Sh uh shrimp and prawns are interesting because they contain enzymes in them that if you uh if you cook them for extended periods of time, they go mushy, they turn to a paste, right? And so uh, you know, vacuum is a and sous vide is a very, very good way, first of all, to infuse flavor into into them and also to make sure that you know none of the flavor leaches out when you're cooking. But but you're gonna want to make sure that you um that you do it fairly quickly. You want to make sure that the um that the it's cooked through in like you know I would I would keep it if you can under twelve minutes or something like that.
+
+[12:12] It's otherwise you're gonna start breaking it down. And a good thing to do is to run a test just to see what happens when you cook it for a long, long time. You'll see it just gets really uh it gets really nasty. One way to do it is if you like more traditional texture is obviously to put the bag into a very high temp water. And that's what someone like George Prolou would do where he cooks his shellfish almost in boiling water, even when it's in a vacuum bag.
+
+[12:32] Another option, if you want to go more like the texture that you that people want off like a butter poached lobster or something like that, is to run it more like 65 degrees for like Celsius for like uh you know, 10, 10 to 12 minutes once it's out of its shell, obviously. You know what I mean? So that might be a similar thing you do with with uh with a prawn or a shrimp, but that's gonna give you a soft texture, more you know, more akin to uh on the lower side of being done than on the higher side, and then obviously you can firm it up with your finishing step, you know, with your finishing sear step, which is gonna put more of a uh, you know, more of a a crust on the outside and get it done. But you really the the key thing with it is just to not cook it for too long because it's gonna be and cool it down quick after it comes out because it's just gonna be a complete nightmare to you. You're gonna get you cannot believe how bad the texture of a long cooked uh you know shrimp or prawn can be.
+
+[13:22] I mean, I've uh it doesn't always happen, but it happens enough and you have to spit it out. It's like just it's just terrible. I yeah, that's really what I was trying to avoid by doing the sous vide step because I find that if I do it directly on the grill, if I'm doing like a large, say, like a 10, 12 um prawn, um I I can easily overcook it and it it gets very mushy and not not a pleasant flavor at all. Right. But you're gonna flash finish them on this one, right?
+
+[13:48] You're just gonna pre-cook them and then flash finish them? Yes, but I I'd like to do them in the shell because uh the shell adds a nice flavor when it's uh when it's grilled. So I d just will that change the cooking times, you think? No, not much. The shells are usually pretty thick.
+
+[14:01] You can do it head on too, or no? Yes, head-on too. Yeah, because the head's the best part anyway. But the uh uh not the best part, you know, it's delicious, that's what I mean to say. Sure, yeah.
+
+[14:09] But um one thing you want to be really careful of is that uh is that the shells on um on shrimp and prawns uh almost always pop vacuum bags. So you're gonna want to either double bag or wrap them in in something to protect the bag and to make sure that you have uh you know the the air doesn't come back into the chamber too fast because you're gonna start popping your bags. And after you pack them, you're gonna want to let them sit for I mean it's good to let them sit to marinate anyway. If you're gonna use like oil and salt and pepper or something, I mean I don't know what your recipe is, but you know, uh inside the bag, um, you know, then you're gonna want to let it sit for a half hour or so, not just to pick up the flavor of whatever you put in, but also to make sure you don't have any holes in it, right? Then I would I would go for a fairly quick cook, like uh like maybe 10 to I don't know the size of them, but like 10 10 minutes, 10 to 12 uh at like 65 or something like that.
+
+[14:59] And pull them out, cool them down, and then do your do your flash finish almost from cold because they'll already be cooked. And so you can cook them as at high a heat as you want to get that nice color and taste on the outside of the shell without having to worry about cooking the inside. Perfect, Dave. Perfect. Thank you so much.
+
+[15:13] All right, and and and uh please tell us your results, like write in and tell us whether whether it worked. This way I can uh see whether whether that worked. Okay, I'll maybe even put some photos in as well. Sounds great. Thanks so much.
+
+[15:25] Oh, and we're going to our first commercial break, but call in your questions at 718 497 2128, 718 497 2128. Cooking issues. Oh, how do you feel, brother? Feeling good. You feel good?
+
+[15:39] There's so much bone, brother. How do you feel, man? I'll feel my way. I don't want to know if people don't know you in. Yeah.
+
+[15:45] How you feel, fellas? Yeah! Sure getting down. This is a public service announcement from added value. Join us Saturday, October 16th at the Red Hook Community Farm.
+
+[16:00] Celebrate the harvest. Visit Brooklyn's largest urban farm. Delicious seasonal foods from local restaurants. EC, The Good Fork, Kevin's, the Lobster Pound, and Rice. And of course, pick up your produce at the Red Hook Farmers Market.
+
+[16:13] For more information, call 718-855-5531. That's 718-855-5531. Or visit www.added dash value.org. This has been a public service announcement from Added Value. Now I won't have about it.
+
+[16:36] Let Brad blow up my two cores. And then I want to wave me and let's go and do that within a now. All right. I'm gonna get that bellow with a little horn over there. Yeah.
+
+[16:51] Take us higher. Brad! Brad! Bad! And welcome back to Cooking Issues.
+
+[17:01] Call in your questions right now to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 coming to you live from Roberta's in Brooklyn, New York. Okay. Uh we have some more of Colin's questions here. He has quite a few questions.
+
+[17:14] We're gonna try and hit them all. Uh so Colin, uh, to refresh you if you didn't listen to the first segment, Colin built his own vacuum machine, uh, his own vacu chamber vacuum machine using a uh a pump out of a uh a compressor out of an air conditioner. And there's lots of over the past couple of years, people who have done this kind of DIY chambers, but not just for food packing, for like making models, for doing vacuum bagging, like when they're doing resin. A lot of good reasons to build vacuum pumps out there and a lot of sites with a lot of great information on it. So uh he asks a question Can the walls of quartz size canning jars withstand uh a full vacuum, 14 psi.
+
+[17:46] Oh yes, they can. In fact, I use this trick all the time. When we're if you have a vacuum machine and you don't have what's called gas flush. So when you're using a vacuum machine and you have gas flush, it means that you suck a vacuum in the bag. Uh but you know, if you if you would then seal it and let the air come back in, let's say you had potato chips, bam, the potato chips will get smashed when the air came back in, it would just get shattered and you have potato dust, which is not what you're looking for, right?
+
+[18:09] So you have something called gas flush. And what that is is that you suck all the air out, so all the moisture is gone, so now your potato chips are not gonna go, and there's no oxygen, so the potato chips aren't gonna go rancid, and they're not gonna get uh they're not gonna get soft and nasty, and then you inject uh a neutral gas back in, usually nitrogen, you know, sometimes depending on what you're doing, CO2 or some crazy mix depending on what you're doing, and then you seal it, and then when the air comes back in, there's a neutral gas in there so that it's bag is still puffy. Your potato chips don't get smashed. And in fact, your potato chips are protected because they're inside of a pillow. So, anyway, uh so this is a technique that you can use.
+
+[18:42] If you don't have gas flush, which we just got actually in our new, we have a new vacuum machine in the school, and we'll be reporting on that at some point. But the um uh if you don't have gas flush, quart uh and larger liter canning jars are a very good way to do it. I would get the and they can take the pressure no problem. Uh what I would do is I would get the ones not the ones that have the the the thin metal lid that you then pry up. And the reason is that um they seal once great, and then like after you open the lid to pry it up, like make that noise when it pops up.
+
+[19:13] A lot of times they won't reseal. I like the old style ones that have a glass lid and a glass base and a rubber gasket, and then you just set the rubber the set the lid with the gasket on top of your canning jar, take all the metal hardware off of it, it's just gonna get in your way, suck the vacuum, and then when the vacuum comes back, the lid gets smashed back onto the top, and the actual vessel takes the pressure for you, not your potato chips or whatever the heck else you're gonna pack. And those vacuums, I've had them last for months and months. Sometimes you'll get a bad seal on those, but you you can usually tell within you know a couple of hours to a day that the seal on that jar is not going to be. How do you do it without a vacuum machine with those rubber seals?
+
+[19:51] Well the rubber when you're canning with those things, usually the rubber seals, they have a um a lid on it, right? So you'd you'd boil them and you know, you you boil them, um, I guess you start boiling them and then maybe seal them while they're boiling, and then they and then as they as the uh as it cools down, you'll suck a partial vacuum on the top, and then you have to open it. I mean, it's like I guess it's an old, it's I've never actually used them to can, I've only used them to package things. But they're great. You can get them in most in most uh houseware stores, and we use them all the time.
+
+[20:19] So if you're bringing something that's crisp, like apple chips or potato chips or methyl cell F50 uh, you know, meringue pus, which is what we do a lot, um, you know, you can keep them for a long time and you can, you know, travel in a rainstorm, you know, through Louisiana in a bayou, what it doesn't matter, and the and the stuff's not gonna go bad on you. So it's actually a really good technique for bringing stuff with you. Not as good as having gas flush, but um because it's just a pain in the butt. But anyway. Uh so on the subject of vacuums, Colin wants to know that he's making apple chips and he wants to he wants to get that same kind of same foamy texture that you get from um from doing uh freeze drying.
+
+[20:55] Uh, and he wants to know how can how can you do that? Well, that's a pain in the butt, Colin, because freeze drying is a really good technique for doing that. Nothing else really approximates freeze drying the way freeze drying does. So the way a freeze-dryer works is you freeze something uh, you know, uh usually at a fairly low temperature to get you know to minimize the destruction of stuff to the cells quickly and low temperature, and then you let it you put a very strong vacuum on it and you let it uh heat up slowly in that until the water uh inside of it basically sublimates. And what that means is you put it in a condition where uh the water doesn't want to go from a solid to a liquid and then to a gas, it just evaporates directly from a solid to a gas.
+
+[21:36] And so what that means is is that the structure of the product is held rigidly by by the ice until the water leaves it, at which point it it maintains its structure. And that's why you have things that look pretty much life size, but they have no more water in them, they're very porous, they're crunchy, they're great, and that's freeze drying. The problem is the equipment is usually somewhat expensive. You need a you need a fairly good vacuum pump. You also need what's called a cold trap because everything that you everything you um suck off, you then need to um recondense back.
+
+[22:02] So you need a fairly cold cold trap. I've tried to do it kind of a ghetto style freeze dryer using my rotary evaporator, but my pump isn't quite good enough. My vacuum pump isn't quite good enough. So you know, some people have one. Alex Talbot at Ideas and Food has one.
+
+[22:17] Um, you know, a couple of restaurants have them. I think I think maybe Laurent Gras might have one at L2O. I don't know. Anyway, we don't have a vac uh freeze dryer. Someday, someday I'll have one.
+
+[22:25] Um anywho, so but there is an interesting uh patent that's been applied for. I think it's still under patent. So if you do this, you're going to be breaking all kinds of patent laws. I don't really care about that, but there's a technique called uh uh basic it's basically fruit puffing using vacuum and then carbon dioxide. And if you are the kind of person who can rip apart an air conditioner and build a vacuum chamber, then you are also the kind of person who can do this.
+
+[22:52] And hopefully I don't have time to do it, so maybe you can do it and tell me tell me how it works. So here's here's what you do. First thing you do is you partially dehydrate a product till it's down to like about 60% 20 to 60% water. You can do that with a standard dehydration or you can use what's called osmotic dehydration. What that is is you put you put your fruit into an a very intense sugar syrup and that draws the water out osmotically.
+
+[23:13] It's osmotic dehydration. So you can do it that way. You could do it with a partial dehydration step. But the trick is to get rid of I think about half the half the water or so a little under half the water. Then you take your apple slices at this point and you put them into uh into your vacuum chamber and you suck a full vacuum on them for a little bit, right?
+
+[23:31] Then you put a CO2 tank on and you pressurize it to about you know a little over 200 psi, right? So uh and that's the minimum is about they in the patent literature the minimum is about 200, 220 psi of CO2 and you want to leave that for like 60 minutes under the high pressure CO2. So what's happening is a CO2 is going into the fruit and it's basically getting uh it's is going all the way into the uh the cells and then you want to vent it uh over the course of like uh 30 seconds so after that 60 minutes you vent it over the course of 30 seconds and the rapidly escaping CO2 takes with it the water and puffs the fruit up at the same time so that's dehydrates and then any further dehydration you could probably do in a normal dehydrate or something like that. So it's a room temperature technique so it's similar to freeze drying that way and um it doesn't require um as much expensive equipment as a as a as a freeze dryer does. So if you can try this vacuum then CO2 puffing Colin I would be much obliged if you then tell us how it works and post pictures.
+
+[24:33] But be extremely careful with pressure vessels. Make sure that you are using a pressure vessel that can handle the pressure. I don't want anyone blowing something up and you know, basically creating a pipe bomb and killing themselves uh over something I said. So, you know, certain um, you know, schedule 40 pipe, which is a standard pipe you get will not handle these kinds of pressures um safely. Uh schedule 80 pipes, some schedule 80 pipes can handle it.
+
+[24:55] Um so just anyway, so be careful, make sure you know what you're doing. Uh, you know, and just but I'd love to see someone try that, even though I think you'd be infringing on a bunch of patents, and you know that they might come and arrest you. But uh, you know, again, uh hopefully not. Um and Colin's last question is uh he's making an alginate bath and he wants to know how long he can keep it. All right, so I don't know whether have we talked about this ever?
+
+[25:15] The alginate bath? No, I don't even think you talked about the pancakes. The pancakes? Yeah. No, all right.
+
+[25:20] Well, we'll talk about this then. Okay, okay. So uh sodium alginate is uh kind of very famous. It's made from seaweed, and what it does is it's the stuff that people make little balls out of uh in restaurants, like they call it caviar, blah, blah, blah. And the standard thing is you take, and by the way, it's also how they make the pimento on the inside of uh of an olive, it's how they make fake onion rings, it's how they, you know, some dog foods are made this way.
+
+[25:41] And so you take this seaweed, sodium alginate, and you mix it in, and whenever it touches anything with calcium in it, it all of a sudden turns to a gel, right? So the standard technique that uh, you know, it was used for forever to make fake blueberries, and it was used also by science teachers who, you know, do it in science. But the famous early restaurant application was Ferron uh Adrian, who's actually coming to speak at the French culinary today. Later today. He's gonna be signing books and coming to the coming to the FCI.
+
+[26:05] So uh so Ferron, you know, famously made melon caviar out of alginate, and alginate in restaurants was born, right? Now the problem with alginate is that it doesn't really have a great texture or taste. And so in fact, it steals taste. It's like a flavored thief. So alginate, and also the other problem is if you make these balls, you drop alginate into calcium, it forms this beautiful sphere, but then over the course of the next couple of minutes, it turns solid.
+
+[26:30] And once it turns solid, it's completely unpleasant. If it doesn't pop in your mouth, it's it's unpleasant. So then the next step is that you know, Chef started doing what's called reverse alginate. So in reverse alginate, instead of dropping alginate into a calcium bath and forming this little balls, you're dropping calcium into an alginate bath, and then you get a little film of uh of alginate around it, but the inside stays liquid forever, right? And so, and so that is kind of I think it's it's it's a better technique from a from a food standpoint.
+
+[26:57] But then you have these alginate baths sitting around, and the question is well, how long can you keep that alginate bath without it going bad? I've never kept one longer than about two or three days. Uh, but a lot of it depends on how heavily it's used, how much calcium you know gets touches it, and you have to use something called a sequestrant. And so what a sequestrant is a sequestrant um sucks up the calcium that's inside of your uh solution and uh stops it from causing the alginate to react until there's so much calcium there that a reaction happens. And they and and the the two goods I mean sodium citrate is kind of the the sequestrant that people just have lying around, it's not so good.
+
+[27:33] Sodium citrate is also a buffer, uh, which is good, but it's kind of crap. You really want to use sodium hexametaphosphate. Uh I'll say that again because that's a pain in the butt. Sodium hexametaphosphate. Hexametaphosphate, is that right?
+
+[27:45] It says anyway, call it shimp, A S H M P shimp. And uh a little little dabble duty on that one, you know, you get yourself a couple hundred grams of that, and that's a lifetime supply of shimp, and uh put it into your into your alginate bath, and it should last a good long, a good long time. We actually did a demo recently, uh Nastasha and I, for what the heck was that show called? Uh foodography. Yeah.
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+[28:06] For the cooking channel. For the cooking channel. I mean, it's not it's not out yet or anything, but what we did with that was uh we we wanted to do like our version of the McGriddle kind of, which is you know for those of you that and I don't I don't you know I've never had a McGriddle but it's basically uh McDonald's puts like crystals of uh of uh maple syrup or goop some sort of maple syrup goop on the inside of their pancake and the reason they're doing that is because the pancake becomes I think a sandwich inside yeah yeah something something like that anyway so what we did is we made uh we did reverse allergenate we mixed calcium with maple syrup and then uh put it into alginate so we had these little balls of maple syrup that then when you bit into them they pop you actually get a pop of maple syrup and we folded a bunch of them into a pancake batter buttermilk pancake batter your standard buttermilk pancake battery and cook them and they were actually pretty good I thought yeah no they were delicious they were delicious so you made them into silver dollars so they were yeah right little silver dollar pancakes so take that McDonald's but anyway so uh it should it should your algorithm bath should last a good long time we're gonna go to a break Dave we are all right uh well we're gonna come back uh from our second session but uh call in your questions to 718-4972128 that's 718-497-2128 cooking issues you know what we're not here, group like this oh hey I got yeah, baby. Yeah. Yeah.
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+[29:59] Black way up young man. Ah! It's things. No. No.
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+[30:16] Grip. Welcome back to Cooking Issues. Uh call in your questions too. 718-497-2128-718-497-2128. We're gonna be here for about another 15 minutes.
+
+[30:37] And by the way, we mentioned the list we're gonna keep of questions we're gonna ask McGee. He's in Japan right now, or we would call and ask him right now. But uh the man himself is coming to uh the French culinary for his class next week. The 21st and 22nd of October. And there are still slots available for those of you that want to come meet the man in person and take the two-day McGee Lecture Series class at the French Culinary Studio.
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+[30:59] It's a class unlike any other, actually. We're gonna be doing some Ikijime, killing some fish. We might be doing what else we're gonna do for the week. We're getting a giant lobster. I don't know where they're gonna do a giant lobster.
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+[31:08] We're gonna definitely do some uh lime juice test. It's it's uh it's a class unlike any other. Let's just put it that way. You can go check it out on the French uh culinary website, which is I don't know, Frenchculinary.com. I think so.
+
+[31:18] Yeah, yeah. Okay. Uh so uh I have a question from Patrick Brawley, and he's wondering uh in general, what percentage of ascorbic acid to use as an antioxidant? Uh and so the the thing is ascorbic acid is it's vitamin C, right? So and we use it all the time when we're when we're you know doing fruits like apples or anything else, it's gonna turn brown.
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+[31:40] We put ascorbic acid in to prevent it from turning brown. In fact, we put ascorbic acid into uh apple juice as we make it, it'll stay green and fresh tasting until it actually spoils. It'll never go brown, it'll never have that oxidized apple taste. And uh the question of percentage is an interesting one. Uh I spoke to Nils about it actually this morning.
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+[31:58] We always just add by eye. We've never actually measured how much ascorbic acid we're doing. Uh it's not hypercritical how much you use it, but I did some research, and usually it how much you use depends on your application. So if you're gonna make a let's say you're cutting apples and you're gonna put ascorbic acid into uh the water and you're gonna try to try to keep it, then it's usually a higher dose. Or if you're gonna dehydrate it then afterwards, you want the ascorbic acid uh to enough to get on the apple to have it really make a difference, then you're gonna probably use something on the order of six grams a liter, something like that, right?
+
+[32:31] But if you're adding it to juice, then you probably need a lot less. You probably need like maybe half of that, like three grams per liter, or you know, something something like that. But uh, we usually just add like you know, a teaspoon or so to per quart or something like that or less. Uh, but you know, it doesn't it doesn't really affect the flavor that much. Ascorbic acid is a much lower um has a much lower impact on flavor than like citric acid, which brings me to my next point.
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+[32:57] Never confuse citric acid and ascorbic acid. Ascorbic acid is vitamin C. Ascorbic acid is the antioxidant. Citric acid, and it does not taste like lemons. It's an has an acidic taste, but it doesn't taste like lemons.
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+[33:10] Citric acid does not have the same antioxidant power as ascorbic acid. Citric acid does taste like the acid in lemons, right? But they're often confused. Sour salt that you buy in the supermarket is citric acid, right? You want to make sure you get ascorbic acid.
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+[33:27] And when you buy ascorbic acid, if you go to a GNC or whatever, your vitamin store and you buy uh vitamin C powder or pills, you want to make sure you get the straight stuff and not stuff that's like got rose hips and all this other nonsense because that's gonna add flavor, and you're really not looking to add uh flavor to to your product. Um if you're gonna make apple cider and you put it in there, is it not gonna turn the apple cider brown? It's not only not gonna turn the apple cider brown, it's not gonna taste like apple cider. It's gonna taste like fresh apples, right? So the so the care so when we're doing work where we want the apple, we want the characteristic flavor of an apple.
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+[34:03] Like let's say we're juicing uh like you know, my favorite, ashmead's kernel, right? I want the juice to taste like that's an apple variety. Uh and I want the and by the way, Nastasha and I next week when we go to London, we're gonna go to the Brogdale collection, which is uh uh Cornell has the finest collection of biggest, I mean, and also finest, I guess, collection of apples in the world, but they also have a they have a lot of non-culinary apples. The Broguedale, which is you know, you know, the UK's apple collection in Kent, uh, which is outside of London, uh, they have the largest collection of culinary apples in the world. So Nastash and I are gonna go there and I'm gonna eat so many apples that um that basically they have to shove a like a needle in my stomach and like evacuate all of the craziness that's I'm gonna eat apples until I pass out, basically.
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+[34:48] I'm gonna take up I've become allergic to apples actually over the last couple of years, so I'm gonna bring a whole bunch of Benadryl with me. And I'm just gonna I'm gonna wait until my throat starts to swell. I'm gonna inject myself with uh with epinephrine and take Benadryl because I'm I'm there to eat as many apples as is humanly possible, and we'll report back. Uh anyway, so if you're juicing ash mead's kernel, which I hope to taste next next uh week, uh, because our supplier of Ashmade's kernel uh gut was destroyed this year because we there was a killing frost in in parts of the northeast this year. Anyway, uh so uh when you're juicing it and you want that taste of the fresh apple, if you want the juice to taste like you just bit into that apple, minus the crunch, then you use ascorbic acid and it's going to retain its original color and its original flavor.
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+[35:28] It's not the flavor we associate with apple juice. The flavor we associate with apple juice and apple cider is that brown flavor because the oxidation doesn't just change the color, it also changes the flavor. Uh and so you only add it if you're looking for that fresh flavor, and you don't add it if you want that that you know, cider and or and or juice flavor. Um but that said, I love that fresh flavor, and it makes really great mixers. And so if you're juicing your own apples, we use a sc we go through ascorbic acid like it's like it's going out of style.
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+[35:58] Uh the other question Patrick had is he was he was trying to uh uh make an agar gel. I have a lot of uh hydrocolor cushions this time. Yeah. Well, you're having the class coming up too. Uh but I I would push the class, but it's sold out.
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+[36:09] You'll have to say it's sold out. Like we do a hydrocolloids class at school where we teach you how to use all these things like agar, xanthan, also meat glue, which is transglutaminase. We're gonna show you how to use SPL, which is the enzyme we use to do clarifications, all this stuff, it's great. But unfortunately, I think the class, I mean, maybe it's not sold out. Check it on the French Culinary.com.
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+[36:26] I think it's I think it's sold out. I'm not sure. Um, so uh he's making Patrick's making a an agar gel. Agar is another seaweed gel. It's a great one.
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+[36:35] I highly recommend that you know, if if you've just started playing with hydrocolloids, use agar because you can use it to clarify, you can use it to set gels, you can use it to make fluid gels, which are my one of my favorite things to do with uh hydrocolloids in the kitchen. Uh, but he wants to make uh the problem with agar is agar is brittle, right? So it breaks very easily. He's trying to increase the elasticity. And he says uh, you know, and typically you would do that by adding another gum called locust bean gum, another natural gum.
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+[36:59] That one's from basically ground up seeds. Um and so the the question is is that he doesn't want to use uh and the locust bean gum basically uh just modifies the agar so it's less brittle, right? So it's a you a lot of times if you add uh like a thickener like that to a gel, uh so thickeners locust bean gum, agar is a gel, you can make it a little bit softer. And he says, Is there anything else you can use? Well, because it because he says LBG, locust bean gum in the biz we call it LBG, uh, that it's too expensive.
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+[37:25] I don't know what the per pound cost is on LBG when you're buying it, but you're not going to use that much. I would go ahead and buy the LBG. I mean, unless you're make because you know, one pound of LBG should be in more than enough to do 200, you know, 200 or more, 300 pounds of uh just as a softener uh of uh agar gel. So I don't know what you're charging, what they're charging for. I mean, check Terra Spice in in the US, uh, I don't know, or Le Sanctuaire, they sell it.
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+[37:51] But the problem is you can go with a much cheaper gum like guar, but guar tastes terrible. Guar is another bean, it's very similar to locust bean gum, not quite as good probably at modifying the texture, but it will work. Uh the problem with guar is, like I say, is it tastes horrible unless you buy flavor-free guar from T I C gums. But I don't know how cheap the uh T I C gums flavor free uh guar is, but that is one way around it. Uh so hopefully that is helpful.
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+[38:20] And we have one last question from Norway. Uh so uh Eric from with the uh real spelling with the K like that anyway. So Eric from Norway uh uh writes in and he's making he's in a restaurant in Norway and he's making a lot of lobster stock. Uh and he's making a lobster stock and then reducing it um for use later. And he says that he's getting a good um he's getting a good taste out of the lobster stock, presumably he's doing it tradition traditional way, which is you break up the lobster shells.
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+[38:48] You rope where you roast and or roast and or break up or both, I don't know, whichever order, it doesn't really matter, till you get some color on them, and then you break them up and then you you cook them in uh in liquid to extract the flavor from the shells, right? That's typically then you would strain out the shells and then you would and you know use the stock. Uh after that, he reduces it and makes it uh makes a reduction out of it. He says it's usable, but it doesn't taste like fresh lobster. Um do you have a better way to do it?
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+[39:11] And can you do it in a pressure cooker and because he needs an excuse to get one? Well, I will I will do anything I can. Send me a menu, I will give you an excuse to buy a pressure cooker, but this is not that excuse because um I was talking to Nils about this actually uh earlier today. You don't one of the main problems people have when they make a lot any sort of crustacean stock is they boil the uh they boil the shells too long, and they the sh the all of a sudden the stock will take on this like horrible, we ascribe it, I don't know technically whether it is, but Nils and I always call it the calcium taste. And it all of a sudden starts to taste not like the shellfish itself, but like literally like you're chewing on shells.
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+[39:48] And we ascribe that to like maybe the calcium being leached out. So while I've never done it, so I'm always horrified. I'm always making sure that people don't leave the shells in my stocks too long when we're doing it because I I dread that taste. Uh once you pull it out and you reduce it, that it's that's fine, you're never gonna get that taste. But um, but anyway, so Nils, so don't use a pressure cooker on that one because I'm almost guaranteeing you that the higher temperature is gonna cause an increased release of of that stuff, and it's you're gonna get that taste.
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+[40:16] I can't, I'm almost guaranteeing it because I haven't actually done it, but that's my feeling. That's my strong feeling that that's what's gonna happen. Um, but Mill said that you because he had tested this, I asked him whether he could get a fresher flavor. If you don't roast the shells uh beforehand, you're not going to have as intense a flavor, but maybe it's going to be okay because you're going to reduce it, but it might be closer to a fresh lobster flavor. Another thing, um, you know, you know, um Eric had asked whether he can clarify the stock and is he going to lose a lot of flavor out of it.
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+[40:44] I don't think he's going to lose a lot of flavor if you clarify your stock, like doing a gel clarification or like that. But if you're preserving the oil, he said he had the oil on the top of the stock and he takes the oil off, he emulsifies it back into this stock anyway. If you're going to emulsify oil back into the stock as part of a reduction, I don't necessarily see the point in clarifying it because you're you're just you it's going to make it unclear once you emulsify the oil in anyway. So if long if you're gonna have oil in it, I don't see the point of clarifying it. But clarifying the water phase by itself isn't, I don't think going to damage the flavor that much.
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+[41:14] Might make it cleaner, a little lighter, but cleaner. One last suggestion I have for you to really extract some flavor out of it, is you might consider breaking the shells up, either roasting them or not, depending on what flavor you want, and then doing um circulating some butter in the shells first to extract some of the oil soluble flavors, basically making like a lobster butter, reserve that, then do a stock with that, suck out all the water soluble stuff, then reduce that, then do your emulsifying like almost like you were finishing the reduction with the crisp with the basically lobster butter you've made, and then you should get the maximum amount of flavor out of those shells without uh hopefully without sucking out the the evil nasty calcium bits. And you know, if you do it right, you should be able to get you know, maybe a fresher flavor. Like maybe you could also maybe do the butter poach before you do the uh before you but do the butter poach before you roast them and then roast them, and then you could do all sorts of combinations. But again, I'm very curious as to what happens, so you know, you you should write in, hopefully, and tell us and tell us what happened.
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+[42:14] Just don't put it in the pressure cooker. Uh, but I love pressure cookers again. I'll give you any excuse. Ask me any other question, I'll tell you you need a pressure cooker, but not for that one. Uh one last question I had, it actually came into the blog, but I'll just answer it here.
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+[42:25] Is uh can you make bananas Houstina without a centrifuge? And can you do it with agar clarification? So for those of you that haven't uh come to any of our events recently, one of our favorite new drinks, in fact, we did it at the uh Heritage Radio Network, uh, you know, fundraiser a couple weeks ago, is uh bananas Houstino. And uh so uh and the name is too the derivation of the name is too silly to go into now, but basically we we make a rum banana custino and we make a bourbon banana cestino. Uh and uh so what you do is is you blend uh bananas.
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+[42:54] So when you're doing bourbon banana custino, it's five uh it's five bananas per liter of bourbon. And you blend them, you add a little bit of uh of our magical enzyme, Pectanex SPL, which is you know a genius. In fact, it doesn't that recipe doesn't work without it, because we tested it at uh the New York Culinary Experience event we did, was that last week? Was that only last week? Holy holy crap.
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+[43:15] Anyway, so you you blend it together, you put it in a centrifuge, and you spin it at 4,000 uh, you know, G's uh for like you know, 15 minutes, and you get this delicious clear, delicious clear bourbon with banana in it, and then you we we make uh ice cubes that are basically either if we're gonna use it today, it's brown sugar, lemon, and water. If we're gonna use it tomorrow and vanilla, uh it's brown sugar, citric acid and uh and uh you know, water and uh vanilla if we're gonna use it later. Anyway, and so it's a great drink, and it's garnished with uh candied ginger. It's great. We love it.
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+[43:46] Anyway, uh so that particular drink needs a centrifuge, but you could do an agar clarification of it. I don't know what your yield is gonna be, so you might have to add uh you I mean your yield might be not me. I know your yield won't be as good. So what you would do, and the other problem with agar clarification with bourbon is that if you don't have access to liquid nitrogen, the bourbon won't freeze. So oh, but you could do quick agar clarification.
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+[44:12] I was thinking freeze thaw. My brain just went on z Zorch. You could do quick agar. So then what you would do is you would blend the bananas and the bourbon. You would um I would take some water, right?
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+[44:23] Uh I would hydrate. So let's say, let's let I'll give it we we'll do an actual recipe here, right? Let's say you blend uh what do you think? I don't know, like 200 grams of bananas and a liter of bourbon, so that's roughly 1200 milliliters, right? Let's say you took 400 mils of water.
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+[44:39] Uh what is that, 1800? Yeah. Shoot, eighteen hundred. No, two, six, six sixteen hundred. Well, I can't do the math.
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+[44:47] Anyway, then point two percent of that. So let's say it was two liters. Let's say you had two liters of stuff. You would take uh um, you know, uh what is it, four grams of agar. You would then hydrate that in the water portion.
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+[44:59] Don't add the water to the bourbon and blend the bananas. Hydrate it in your water portion. Make sure that you put it the agar into the water cold, make sure it boils and then simmers for a couple of minutes to make sure it's hydrated. Temper your bourbon back and bananas back into the uh water, and then let that set in the uh and once it sets, break it up with a whisk and like gently pass it through cheesecloth. Again, I don't know what your yield will be, but it should get a similar result.
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+[45:24] I mean, the reason we use a centrifuge is I have three. Well, and the events are usually upwards of 300 people attending. So yeah, I mean you could definitely make it at home this way, you know, but but like our yield is just so high using the you know, we get almost zero loss when we do it uh in the centrifuge, and so that's the reason we use the centrifuge, but uh you can definitely make banana Zustino at home using agar and uh and bananas and bourbon and um I almost guarantee you it will work. Right? No?
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+[45:57] Yes. All right. So next week, save up your questions. We will be doing live from London, but unlike last week when we did it, uh, we are going to be uh both Nastasha and I will both be in London. And so I think Jack is gonna be our our local our local host.
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+[46:12] Is that true? Jack, our intrepid engineer who doesn't come on the air very often, but is runs the show here basically. Without it, we uh we wouldn't have it. Uh but before we go, I will leave you with this with this one thing. So we went uh we did an event on last uh Saturday.
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+[46:26] Yesterday, two, three days ago. What now what was the name of the event again? This is uh Live Fit or Die or No, Fun Fit in the City. Fun Fit Live Fit or Die. Where'd you get that?
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+[46:35] It's crazy. Fun fit in the City. Anyway, we were at the Discovery the Discovery Zone, it's called right. It's a school, it's a charter school in Harlem on 125th Street and uh was it in Madison or Fifth, I forget. Between both anyway, so it's just it's actually an amazing school.
+
+[46:49] We went to visit it. It's really incredible. It's like it's a huge place. It looks amazing, like it's a kind of school I wish I could have gone to when I was a kid. Anyway, we were doing an event there for the Liberty Science Center and the Food Network, who were putting an event together and they were talking about nutrition.
+
+[47:03] And so they asked uh, you know, they asked us to go up and do uh do you know, do a demonstration that somehow had something to do with nutrition for like a couple hundred people, and immediately of course genemic acid popped into my head. So genemic acid is uh the thing we use that erases your sense of sweet. So we passed out uh a you know, a bunch of gymnemic acid, which is a leaf basically from the uh gymnima silvestri. It's a plant from India. Lone Noklia's the sugar destroyer.
+
+[47:29] And uh, and you eat this incredibly awful tasting uh leaf powder, and for about half an hour you can't taste anything sweet at all, at all. No nothing, no sweetness. And so we passed out the powder, and along with uh bananas, not banana zustino, it was because it was all kids, so no liquor, unfortunately. Um strawberries, marshmallows, chocolate, sugar, honey, uh, and I think a couple other things. Anyway, we pass them out in bags, and you know, we're basically trying to show people you know what food items taste like without the sugar in it.
+
+[47:59] And we actually do that demo in the McGee class. Uh anyway, so we had a bunch of people there, and then I was on stage, and a lot by the way, like we opened it, right? So we were kind of the opening band, but uh, you know, they had uh Rachel Ray was on next and Mehmet Oz and some guy from Men's Health who I can never I don't remember his name. And uh Alonzo Morning, real yeah, I mean a real dude. Anyway, it's like real like real people.
+
+[48:19] Anyway, so uh, you know, unlike us. And uh so I'm sitting there and I felt bad that uh you know that the people didn't have more to eat, and plus there was a huge bowl of oranges on the on the counter. And so I open up the orange so I can taste the orange. Oh, pineapple juice is uh I taste the orange to see kind of how bad the orange tastes without sugar, it was awful. And uh, and so then I'm stupidly I'm sitting here eating an orange, and now I feel like a bad host because I have all these people out in the audience and they don't have any oranges.
+
+[48:48] Of course, I have nowhere near enough oranges for like all the people in the audience. And uh like an idiot, I say, Oh, because I'm eating this orange, oh, would would any of you like to have an orange? And of course, everyone's hands shoot up, right? Immediately. So I'm like crap.
+
+[49:04] And so now I'm like, you know, like the t-shirt gun lady, you know, I'm like hurling oranges out into the audience. Now, I'm not exactly like Captain Catch and throw here, you know what I mean? In fact, I told this one guy, I was like, sorry, you know, I don't you know, I'm not very good at throwing things. I I hit, I got to him fine, he was a catch. So then my biggest fear was I was gonna, and in fact, I think I said it was like I'm gonna bean someone with one of these damn oranges, and I hit a lady square in the head with an orange.
+
+[49:32] I bounced the orange straight off the top of her head. I was like, uh and like I saw her, her hands were there. It wasn't actually a bad throw. Maybe it was a little too much of a line drive to her, but her hands were there, and the hand didn't close around the orange in time, and it bounced off of her head, and and uh the lady behind her caught it. So it's total total orange pandemonium.
+
+[49:52] But I think no one came up and tried to beat the crap out of me afterwards. So I think they were real people. Yeah, anyway, so yeah, so that uh that was uh it was a lot of fun, and hopefully those guys got something out of it. Anyway, so get your questions ready for cooking issues coming to you live from London next week. This has been Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network brought to you by S.
+
+[50:10] Wallace Edwards, fine country hands. Vicious fish is crap. Oh, you daddy crap. Got me on this corner, and I don't know where I'm at. Supposed to meet my baby between the minutes late.
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+[0:00] This episode of Cooking Issues has been proudly brought to you by Whole Foods Market. Whole Foods Market reminds you that every bite has a story. So whether it's a tomato, a muffin, or a T bone steak, your conscious food choices can change the planet. Because at Whole Foods Market, every single purchase you make helps us support things like animal welfare, organic agriculture, equitable trade, and energy offsets. Let's think before we eat.
+
+[0:22] Let's retake our plates. Oh, you dead. And I don't know where I'm at. Hello, and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, the host of Cooking Issues, coming to you on the Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[0:53] I am not in the studio today. Today we're coming live to you from London's Heathrow Ape uh Airport as uh Nastasha the Hammer Lopez and I are waiting to fly back to uh New York City. But we're still here live to take all of your cooking related questions. Uh call in to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128.
+
+[1:14] Now, unfortunately, Nastasha's sitting next to me and we can't have two of our cell phones calling in at once, so she's gonna have to just make comments uh next to me from the from the peanut gallery. But we're gonna try to do uh the best we can. Actually, Nastash and I were both over here doing uh demonstration uh for uh of rotary evaporation here in London, which is interesting. We had to hang out with our other good rotary evaporation friend, Tony Calliaro. Uh and uh it was a good time, right?
+
+[1:40] Yeah. Anyway. So uh we have some email questions, thankfully. Oh, do I like to set up the call number? Call in your questions to seven one eight four nine seven two one two eight.
+
+[1:48] That's seven one eight four nine seven two one two eight. Uh so uh Marv Woodhouse from Belfast UK writes in uh I'm hoping to get an ISI cream whipper for Christmas. Can the same unit be used for CO2 and N2O cartridges? I would like to use the same unit for infusion and for carbonation. Uh okay, so first of all, what we're talking about is the uh the you know the things that you buy to make whipped cream.
+
+[2:09] They're made by ISI, which is a company out of Austria. Uh anyway, so they have the ones that are made for soda water, uh, which are you know, the soda sisons, and they have the ones that are meant for whipped cream, right? Uh and the main difference between those two is the soda ones have uh a uh like a tube. First of all, the neck is much smaller, and they have a tube that goes down to the bottom of them so that when you press the the little lever to dispense it, the the liquid is forced through the tube and out of the uh nozzle, just like you know, in the three stooges. Everyone gets sprayed in the face of seltzer, that kind of thing, right?
+
+[2:41] Uh but they both take the exact same cartridges. So you can put uh N2O, the whipped cream cartridges into an into a CO2 machine, and you can put uh you can put and and vice versa. They they they both work. Now I would definitely recommend getting the cream whipper rather than the uh rather than the seltzer one. The seltzer one has a much smaller neck, so you can't put a lot of things into it uh as easily as you can into the whipped cream one, and you can actually carbonate.
+
+[3:04] I mean it's not my favorite to carbonate, but you can carbonate with the whipped cream uh with the whipped cream thing. The the trick is um you know, you you have to just vent off the excess CO2, open it, and pour it all out. You can't dispense it like a three stooges uh movie. You have to actually vent it and then pour all pour all the carbonated liquid out. Usually when you're carbonating with a with a uh whipped cream maker, though, what you want to make do is put some uh put some ice in so it's very, very cold.
+
+[3:28] Make sure everything's extremely, extremely cold, and it's probably gonna take two chargers. You're gonna want to shake, you're gonna want to, and this is in a regular whipped cream maker. You're gonna want to put your first CO2 cartridge in, shake it up a bit, and then vent it out. Now you're getting rid of all the air and everything in there. That air is what's gonna the air is your main enemy in carbonation.
+
+[3:43] So one of the main problems I have with carbonating in those bottles is that you can't get all the air out of the headspace. So basically, that first charger is really venting all of the air out of the head space and also uh getting rid of a lot of the stuff that's going to make it foam. And then the second charger you put on, the second CO2 charger is what's really going to get it nice and fizzy. Then you put your second charger in, shake it, and let it stand for a couple of minutes for the bubbles to settle down, slow, slowly, slowly vent it, unscrew it, and pour it out, and you should have a delicious carbonated product even in your whipped cream whippers. So that is a I would definitely go uh Marv for the uh whipped cream maker and not the CO2.
+
+[4:21] Uh anyway, okay. So we have uh a second question from Melissa. Uh Melissa actually uh graduated from uh Stanford, you know, for those of you out there, Nastasha is a Stanford graduate, the same year uh as Nastasha, uh, and so uh they have, I guess, some sort of uh kindred kindred spirit. Uh but she has a couple of questions. One relating to mangoes.
+
+[4:43] Um both uh she and her fiance are uh huge mango fans. I mean, she grew up in Malaysia, I guess, which is you know, they have some good mangoes in Malaysia. I've never gotten to go to Malaysia, but I hear they have some good sort of there, so we'll assume they were good. Um so they they you know, eat them by the by the boat load, everyone loves the mangoes, and then all of a sudden, about six years ago, her fiance develops this uh this allergy to mangoes, right? And uh and actually I feel, you know, I I feel for this as well because uh I was allergic to nothing growing up, and then all of a sudden when I became about 30, 31 years old, I developed a uh an allergy to cherries.
+
+[5:18] Now they my throat closes up and I have to go to the hospital and all this, it's it's a nightmare. So my wife doesn't let me have any more cherries, even though they're actually my favorite fruit. I guess, you know, I was being punished for uh always making fun of other people's allergies. So because I always make fun of other people's allergies, you know, someone said, Hey, how about you become allergic to your favorite fruit? Anyway, um and interestingly, uh, he became allergic after sitting down and consuming an entire box of mangoes in one sitting.
+
+[5:42] This guy sounds like he's you know, kinda like me a little bit. The way I did it with cherries is well first I had a preposterous m uh number of lobsters at this summer party, and then, you know, I I bought a giant bag of cherries to kind of wash down the the lobsters, and of course I ate the whole bag by myself and I ended up in the hospital. So I guess there is something too you know, too much of a good thing. Uh and so her question is, is there any way to neutralize the toxin in mangoes to make them edible for someone who's allergic to them without compromising the integrity of their flavor or texture, uh either through some physical cooking method or by adding some kind of neutralizing it. The first uh way, and this is the way I hope it is, uh for him, that you can be allergic to mangoes, is you can be allergic to uh uh a a chemical uh which I can never get the name right, but it's like u your which is basically it's very similar to the right here's the chemical that's in poison ivy, and there's a little bit of that chemical in the out in the mango skin and in the sap, right?
+
+[6:42] So and then you're gonna get like a contact, like you're gonna get a rash, basically a dermatitis from touching it. Well, just like you would get from poison ivy. The good news is if you if you wear gloves and you peel the mango relatively thickly and don't let the peel get back onto the fruit after you cut it. The people who are allergic to that, to uh the eruciool or however you pronounce it, like th those those people can um can have mango, okay. Now um the there are people though who are legitimately allergic to the mangoes uh themselves, right?
+
+[7:11] And that's closer to the allergy I have with uh with cherries. And most fruit allergies basically uh have uh uh to do with proteins that are on uh that are on the fruit, in the fruit, and and somehow they seem to be from the research I've done related to um actually pollen allergies. And unfortunately, uh there's no way to uh get rid of those in a raw fruit. Now it certain of these proteins are destroyed by cooking. So it like theoretically with me, I could eat cooked cherries, but unfortunately I never really like cooked cherry products.
+
+[7:40] I just like raw cherries, and I don't feel like experimenting with it and ending up in the hospital and having my wife like you know, call me an idiot for for experimenting with cooked cherries and going to the hospital. But it is theoretically possible that um that you can cook it and have the allergy go away. Now, all this is assuming that it's not like an anaphylactic, like uh I mean I go to the hospital when I eat these things because my throat closes up and I sound like daffy duck because you know I can't breathe anymore, and you end up in the hospital, but it's not really a full-on anaphylactic reaction, like my body doesn't shut down. It's just my throat closes up because of the contact with the stuff like my throat. So if it is that, um, you know, you have two basic things you have to figure out.
+
+[8:16] What you know, what are you allergic to? Uh is the actual mango, uh, or is it just this chemical in the skin? And then it does cooking make it go away. I'm not s sure specifically with mango, but it you have a a good shot, but there's nothing you're gonna be able to do that's gonna make uh if it is the mango itself, to make a raw mango uh, you know, not uh not cause a reaction, unfortunately, you know, because uh I'm sure you know a raw mango and a cooked mango, they are not the same thing. Um so Melissa also asks uh whether she knows that uh Nastasha's worked with Cesare Cosello, one of our one of our good friends, uh Italian chef from Tuscany.
+
+[8:53] He's uh used to be the uh the salt he like he's a sultan of salumi now, and he was the what the uh wither of beans or something like that, the the empresario of beans. I mean he has like these Tuscan beans, he has this Salumi, he runs the Salamaria Rossi and uh you know up in the uh upper west side of New York. Uh all-around good guy, and we like him. And so um Melissa was wondering whether Nastasha had any recommendations because she's setting up a tour to Italy, uh, and you're uh uh lucky that uh Cesare has just started uh a culinary tours company of Italy where he takes people from the USA to visit and uh taste and visit not not only just restaurants but shops and vendors. And if I know Cesare and I do, you know, it's gonna be an interesting tour.
+
+[9:33] I mean, the man knows his suppliers over there, and he knows uh, you know, he knows food and he definitely knows uh Tuscany like the like the back of his hand. And uh I don't have his website here, but it's Cesare Cosella, and or you can you guys who are you know write questions into the to the radio show can just write uh Nastasha if you're interested in in contact info for that. Um we have a caller, Dave. Oh, we have a caller? Oh, caller, you're on the air.
+
+[10:01] Hello? Hi. How are you doing? Um I just had a quick question, uh, and I'm gonna make it super short because I'm actually in class as we speak. But uh I had a question about making bitters.
+
+[10:15] Okay. Hello? Hello? Hey, what's your question on bitters? Um I was just curious about the process of making it uh in your home.
+
+[10:28] Like uh where could you find information on it? Um and like where to start really. Right. So if you troll the uh if you troll uh kind of bartender's forums and probably on on uh e-gullet, there's a load of information on bitters. Another excellent source is a little some of the old bitters recipes are in the old kind of alcohol handbooks that are available on Google Books, like the old stuff in the eighteen hundreds, like there's a look at those.
+
+[10:55] Uh yeah. And you can get a lot of those uh yeah. I was just gonna say, is it better to start with uh overproof alcohol like a spiritist or an everclear, or is it better to use something flavorful, or really does it depend on the profile you're looking for? It depends on the profile you're looking for, but most often people start with an overproof product and they get you know a faster and probably a more complete result with that, and then you can water it down when you're done. But most people are starting with with an overproof product.
+
+[11:22] Um, one thing I you know I will say that's interesting, a lot of people ask, because you know we have a lot of new techniques for infusion, and uh, you know, I don't like if you use one of the newer techniques, I don't think you're gonna get the same result as you would get with the older technique. Like I say, not better, not worse, just different. So we'll definitely look into the you know into some of the older some of the older recipes if you're trying to achieve an authentic order result. I mean, I know John Derragon was one of the first people to make Abbott's bitters, but I think Abbott's is now maybe commercially available. I don't know if the maybe the Bitter Truth has it or not.
+
+[11:51] Also cocktail uh cocktail kingdom grapeholms uh website, he has a lot of information on bitters because he has a lot of the old recipe books. But it's very simple to do. It just takes time and sourcing of the herbs. And if you're in New York, there's a couple places uh downtown that have like very good uh herb selections or else online. I don't have the website off the top of my head where to go.
+
+[12:10] But most of that, most everything's available. Okay, great. I'm actually uh in New York, so I guess most stuff is readily available. Um really they say that the the slow time is the best way to do it. There's really no way to push it.
+
+[12:25] Well, it's not the only way, but if you want the actual specific flavors that you would get from those uh older older ways of doing it, then I would do it that way. I mean I haven't experimented so much with straight, like actual like uh using a similar recipe, for instance, to like an Angostura or an Abbott's or a patient should try and get a fast result using one of my new techniques. The new techniques would, I'm sure make a great result, but they would be different. In other words, I don't just don't think it's a matter of better or worse. I think it's just different in what you're shooting at.
+
+[12:51] If you're trying to recreate an old recipe, then I would do it the old way. If you're just interested in your own flavors, then buy you know, by all means, use one of the newer techniques and see whether you come up with something that you like better. Do you know what I mean? Yeah, absolutely. Uh thank you so much.
+
+[13:05] No problem. Good luck with it. Tell us what happens. All right. Uh so let me see what we have going on here.
+
+[13:15] I have another question. Someone uh asks, uh Colin, uh, do you know what is in a Ferron Adrian's product, Fizzy from his texturas line? Now uh Ferrand Adria, you know, the famous chef from Albuli has a whole line of products called texturas, which are kind of new ingredients that are unfortunately called molecular gastronomy uh ingredients uh, you know, by people because they they're you know, a lot of the ingredients that are you know labeled by uh reporters and whatnot as molecular gastronomy, even though anyone that knows me knows I did test that term, Ferrand Adria to test that term, uh Hesson Bluewenthal to test that term, Harold McGee to test that term, Wiley Duflain to test that term, uh pretty sure Grant Aikens to test that term. Uh I can't uh it's very hard to find someone who likes the term molecular gastronomy who who you know, speaks English. Um but that said, uh that's often how they're labeled.
+
+[14:05] So Fizzy is one of these products he has. He sells a methyl cell line, he sells uh he sells uh an alginate, he sells all this stuff. But pizzy is one that's supposed to be a carbonation uh kind of thing, the fizzy, but and it and it it's a solid. Now unfortunately I haven't actually used it. So uh the question is is there's two basic ways that it could could be I since I haven't used it I can't say what it is, but there's two basic things that could could happen.
+
+[14:28] One, it can be similar to a pop rocks. And Pop rocks, uh the way you make pop rocks is you take sugar and you heat it till it's molten, until it's molten sugar, and then you put very high pressure on it, like eight thousand uh eight sorry, eight hundred to a thousand psi uh it's pounds per square inch uh of carbon dioxide into it and basically infuse the the CO2 at that very high pressure. You then allow it to set into a block, you release it, at which point the the candy explodes, leaving you with these little rocks inside of the rocks are high pressure carbon dioxide. When you put it in your mouth you melt the candy and pop that high pressure carbon dioxide comes out and hits your tongue. And that's why uh pop rocks is so much sharper in taste than um than a normal seltzer because it's actually you know quite a high concentration pressure of CO2 there.
+
+[15:15] Anyway, that's pop rocks. So and you can buy neutral pop rocks. Uh there's a company in um in America called Chef Rubber that sells them and there's a bunch of people who make kind of blank pop rocks and then you can just mix them into things. Now the other way to get a fizzy effect is by using an acid and base reaction. This is similar to how kind of alcohol seltzer works or something like that.
+
+[15:35] So you when you're doing that what you're doing is you you know the classic one you could mix uh like when you make a kid when you're doing a a uh a volcano when you for a science project you mix baking soda which is a base and vinegar, which is an acid, and it'll foam up and you're supposed to color it red, of course, so it looks like a volcano. You you add the vinegar pfft it foams all over everything, right? This classic acid base. But you can also use that to make things fizzy in your mouth. And so you you can use citric acid, and then you could use uh a you know, you could use a base like baking soda, you could use a more neutral base, and you you arrange them such that they neutralize each other so you don't have a residual base or acid.
+
+[16:09] Uh so it's possible that they're taking an acid and a base and then mixing them into uh sugar, uh syrup solution, and then turning it into granules, and then you eat it and it and it forms fizz in your mouth. So I'm not exactly sure what the what the fizzy is, but it could be uh either one of those things. It's probably an acid base because a lot of the recipes for fizzy have you grinding them up to use them, and that wouldn't work with uh pop rocks. Um but uh I unfortunately am not sure. Someone has to send me a container of it, and I'll play around and report back.
+
+[16:41] So uh we're gonna go to a commercial break and we'll come back, or not commercial break, a music break, I guess. But please call in your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues live from Heathrow. I feel fellow. You're getting down.
+
+[17:05] We're gonna have a pump good time. We're gonna have a pump button. We're gonna have a pump cook. We're gonna have a pumpkin. We've gotta take a high.
+
+[17:54] Welcome back to Cooking Issues. Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, call in all your cooking related questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. Now, before I come back to answering any questions, uh, you know, tell you guys a little bit of what we've been doing for the past week, uh two weeks, three weeks. Uh and so uh and apologize a little bit for the fact that we haven't had a lot of posts going up on the bog.
+
+[18:20] Uh part of the reason is is you know, uh Nastash and I were trapped in uh trapped. London's a great place, but we were in London and the hotel had no free Wi-Fi. Not sorry, no Wi-Fi at all. The internet was completely broken. So we had basically no internet access for the past uh three days.
+
+[18:35] It's kind of weird to think how your life changes these days. I mean, you know, it didn't even have the internet when I was in college and uh, you know, not much of the internet, and now you know I'm complaining when I don't have it for for three days. So anyway, so uh since we last spoke uh uh on cooking issues, I've been to Kentucky and I went to a bunch of distilleries in Kentucky, and then uh we just went to London, but it's been kind of an amazing week, so I think I'll just talk a little bit about that. I don't I usually talk about kind of where I've gone or what I'm doing, but might as well since some of it's uh pretty interesting. So uh in in uh in London, I visited uh Nastasha and I visited the Broedale collection.
+
+[19:12] Now the the Brodale collection is the largest uh collection of fruit in in the world. It's in Kent, which is about an hour outside of London by train. And it is like it is nirvana. It is like, you know, if I had to pick the closest place to, you know, heaven on earth in terms of temperate, you know, temperate climate fruits, this is it. It's crazy.
+
+[19:37] Yeah, you first of all, uh everyone there, which is three people, apologized that, you know, that we went on a Monday because there was no one there. And remember, this is now it's prime apple season, and Nastasha and I went there for the apples because I visited with Harold McKee. I had visited uh you know about four years ago, three, four years ago, the uh the Geneva New York apple extension, which is the largest single apple collection of apples in the world. And it was a life changing experience. It was amazing.
+
+[20:03] You know, I got preposterously sick off of apples over the course of two days with McGee wandering through the trees and just eating and spitting, eating and spitting, eating and spitting, you know I you know we became our own cider presses. Anyway, so at that time I also decided I wanted to go to the Brogdale, which is the English collection. Now the English and the and the Americans, we kind of had a you know, like a friendly rivalry back in the 1800s up to the early, early 1900s of kind of who could grow the best apples, you know, who could who who had the because it was kind of a you know the Victorian area Victorian era, a lot of people were developing new fruit varieties was really kind of an important thing to do. And it was really kind of the golden era of fruit and this is when you know the thousands and thousands of varieties really you know became available. And so I really wanted to come over to England where I am right now and um taste some of these English varieties in their native setting and just basically see how the Brodale uh you know works.
+
+[20:57] So anyway, so Nastash and I show up on a Monday the place is deserted. We saw not one soul, not one soul the entire we were there for five hours eating fruit, and we saw not not one person, a tour bus showed up. It took like three pictures of the outside of the orchard, they got back on the tour bus and they walked away. I mean, those guys, these guys missed out on the biggest, the coolest thing they possibly could have gone to because it's not turns out it's not just apples. Like for me, the apples ended up being a side bite because I've already tasted a bajillion jillion apples at the at you know the Geneva Apple Extension in uh upstate New York.
+
+[21:30] Uh and by the way, you know, New York apples are some of the finest apples in the whole world, not to toot our horns, but you know, two toot. Um so you know, we go there and apples aren't the first thing you come to. Pears are. And you know, I've never been such a huge pear person. But I go in there and uh they have something like 400, 500 varieties of pear, uh a lot of which are still on the tree.
+
+[21:50] It's actually past prime picking time for the pears. But on the tree they're still fine, so it's prime eating time for the pears. Uh and Nastasha and I tried maybe, oh, I don't know, maybe uh uh 200 varieties of pears, uh most of which, you know, at the end, we were just we would split the rows in half, and Nastasha would take the right half, I would take the left half, and we would just eat them, and if they were interesting, we would tell each other uh about it. But and we'll post on soon on the blog, but uh suffice it to say that there is a lot more to know about pears than you have ever known if all you've had is a supermarket pear. The range of flavors and textures in pears is astonishing, not surprising, astonishing.
+
+[22:33] We had pears that tasted like rose water, we had uh we had a whole variety of pears that I didn't even learn about, which are pears that are uh only cooking pears. So they they never get soft. You can actually, these are pears that can actually be stored a long, long time over winter and be used into spring, and they're they're hard like rocks, and they they need to be cooked. They don't develop their flavor uh or their proper texture until they're cook until they're cooked. But you know, unlike cooking apples, which are you know have similar characteristics but are basically just tart, like these ones are you know big useless uh until they're uh until they're cooked.
+
+[23:06] And we we tried a couple, unfortunately I can't bring any back to the States to uh cook them to see what happens, but you know, case of Rasra. Uh we had uh just an infinite variety of textures and aromas. And so when you read the old books on uh plumology, which is the fruit study, you know, usually these temperate fruits like apples and pears and stone fruits, you'll uh you know, you'll you'll hear people say how awesome pears are, but you're sitting there as a modern person being like, pears, who cares about pear pink pear? Yeah, I like a pear, but what's the big deal? Uh and then you really get into it and you see what the huge, huge, huge differences are.
+
+[23:41] And all of a sudden, all the old recipes, like the you know, the medieval recipes for cooked pears, like chardwardens, the famous one, like these ones all make kind of more sense and you kind of want to cry them with the actual with the actual pear now. And and you know, four or five years ago when I became infatuated with the idea of all these apples and flavors that we've lost, I didn't even consider the pear. And now I'm just as hyped on pears as as I am on apples. Uh but that's not all this farm has. I mean, this farm is acres and acres and acres where they they basically let you roam free.
+
+[24:10] They have signs to say don't walk off the path and go into the orchards, but I mean, come on, I mean, that's just there, I think, for liability reasons, because they have huge rabbit holes. By the way, I mentioned this place is full of game. There's game everywhere. There's rabbits, there was like pheasant, there was like if like if you w like were allowed to just go on that land and like with a shotgun and a still, you would never have to leave because they have all the game, all the fruit, you could distill, I mean, it's just it's crazy. Anyway, so uh they have a huge plum orchard with uh several hundred varieties of plum.
+
+[24:41] Uh, unfortunately, as I said earlier in the program, I'm allergic to cherries, but you know, maybe Nastasha can go back during cherry season because they have hundreds of varieties of cherry and they specialize mainly in sweet cherries. Kent is interesting as a group, they specialize mainly not in in cider apples, but oh they have cider apples, but they specialize mainly in in not in cider apples. Cider apples are apples that are are toutannic to use by themselves, they're very good for uh for cider. And Kent, the local ciders are actually made with uh sweeter sweet apples, sweet apples and cooking apples, not with tannic cider apples. It's the West Country uh ciders in the UK that are famous for their very, very tannic apples, small tannic apples that they use in their cider.
+
+[25:17] So Kentish cider actually traditionally uses so a lot of people in this country, well in this country where I'm now but where I live in the US, they think that you're topping out if you're using non-civered varieties for uh your cider, but it turns out it's actually fictional in certain places like Kent to use non cider varieties um of apples. So these but these guys have cider varieties, sweet varieties. They also have a huge nut forest with like a billion different kinds of hazelnut. I mean the place is nuts. I mean I wish I could have spent Nash and I have a huge gastrointestinal problems as a result of being there because uh you know we provide uh you know like I say you know if at least w one or two hundred varieties of pear a b you know bazillion apples.
+
+[25:59] Uh we had some plums even though they were well past prime and don't bother with the plum. A plum plastime is uh i is is no fun. Uh and then we went back to their little cider shop and drank ciders. But uh if you were in in England, you know, skip the Tower of London, skip anything and go get on a train, go to Faversham, which is the little town where it is, uh go to the Broadale and uh go there in fruit season and have one of the most miraculous fruit experiences you are uh ever gonna have in your entire life. A completely uh uh life game uh operation there.
+
+[26:34] Hey Dave, we have a caller. Hello, is that you Jen? We have a caller? Hey Car, you're on the air. Great.
+
+[26:39] My name's Corbin. I'm from San Diego. And I had a question about reproducing a barbecue pulled pork using sous vide. There are a couple things I like about barbecue pulled pork. One is the smoky flavor.
+
+[26:53] The other is like the uh a nice crust of bark that you get on the outside. And I know sous vide is a good way to control the temperature and make it nice and tender, but how can I get the smoke and the bark after or before using sous vide. Yeah it's tough. There's a couple of problems. One is that when you use sous vide, at least with uh the lower temperatures that are associated with Sous vide, you're not gonna get the same texture.
+
+[27:18] So if you I don't know if you've done it before but when you do like a short rib when you're cooking sous vide um you'll notice that the connective tissue gets soft but it doesn't render out right so the fibers never get kind of stringy the way that they get in a traditional uh in a traditional braise. So in traditional braise or a barbecue the the connective tissue is going to melt out and the fibers in the meat are going to basically going to be lubricated by that connective tissue. That's why the meat without connective tissue never tastes good done barbecue right so when you're doing it in sous vide the stuff turns soft but it doesn't render out and that's why one of the interesting things about sous geed like short rib for instance is that you can slice it unlike normal thing which is going to break apart because the fibers are totally broken apart. So the texture is um a little bit a little bit different. Um and so it's not I'm think going to pull the same way that uh texture wise that a that uh normal barbecue I mean I don't know what you're making I assume pork right pulled pork is gonna it's gonna work.
+
+[28:15] The other thing is is that you s that the the outside crust, I mean you but you one way you could do it I mean the smoke is going to be tough. You need smoke, right? And I'm assuming that you know there are some high quality smoke applications that you can put on uh or you could do a cold smoke kind of a situation but it doesn't taste quite the same. Like something that's smoked doesn't taste the same as something that has the smoke flavor from barbecuing it from being bar you know from being made into barbecue. They don't to me they don't taste quite the same although I don't know the chemistry of why that's the case.
+
+[28:46] But um you could apply a smoke. There are some very high quality smoke products that taste a whole hell of a lot better than liquid smoke, but it's still people don't like to do it because you're basically applying a smoked flavor to something rather than smoking it naturally. But you could you could like cold smoke or uh even uh hot smoke after the Sous V step or after the low temp step but you're still gonna need if you want that that that surface on the outside you're gonna need to apply some dry heat to it to actually get some of the moisture out of it. Now you can apply that with a higher uh higher temperature than you would do when you're making normal barbecue and that would allow you to keep the inside still um you know have the advantage of the low temp but uh you know we're having the outside dry out a little bit but it's gonna be totally different because then it to obtain that same surface that you would get you want to have a kind of a the browning happen for a long time over a low temp and it's not going to provide the same result because in order to keep the low temperature result on the inside you're gonna need to put it like in a five hundred degree uh like grill or oven or something that to really get the outside you know to crisp up on you and and get it to firm up without overdoing the inside but it's not gonna be exactly the same result. It would still be delicious, right?
+
+[29:56] But I don't think it's gonna be the same result. Is that that makes sense or no? Yeah, yeah. So I might get a di a a different product, but I could still uh get something that's delicious and um maybe approximates barbecue. Yeah that's uh yeah I mean it's gonna be totally different but yeah low temp cook and you can you can either put something smoking in the bag or you can smoke it a little bit afterwards or get a real like put some chips or something to make your grill real smoky get your grill hot as hell put it in there you know not touching the fire maybe but like a away from the hot as hell and then crisp up the outside and uh and get some smoke flavor in it that way and you can make a delicious product but I don't think it's gonna be the the same as like regular barbecue.
+
+[30:39] Delicious but different you know what I mean? Yeah yeah great yeah so I I called a couple of weeks ago and I had some questions about I bought a used lab circulator so I'm gonna I'm gonna try it out. I got some good advice last time and I think I got some good advice this time so I'll let you know how it goes. Yeah let us know how it goes and uh hopefully it works out for you. I think it will great thank you.
+
+[31:00] All right thanks for all right we're gonna go to our third second commercial break uh call in your questions to 718 uh 4972128 that's 718 4972128 cooking issues live from Heathrow Airport You know what? We're not here, groove like this. Oh, yeah, baby. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[31:49] Back way up young man. It's thing. Look at you. Never got a groove like this. No.
+
+[32:04] No. Grip. Welcome back to Cooking Issues. It's Dave Arnold with Cooking Issues. Uh, calling your questions to 718-497-2128.
+
+[32:22] That's 718-497-2128 on the Heritage Radio Network coming to you live today from Houston Airport in London, where Nastasha the Hammer and I are waiting to get back to New York City. So we have a couple of more questions here. One is uh Colin writes in that he's interested in buying quinine sulfate. Uh and he says he's having some problems getting quinine sulfate. Now, quinine uh is the product in tonic water that gives it its characteristic bitterness.
+
+[32:52] It's also uh what is uh I mean the reason it was there originally is quinine, which comes from a bark, by the way. Uh Kinshona, I think it's how it's pronounced, so I can never remember. Uh this this quinine uh is an anti-malarial, right? Which is why uh, you know, you take it if you're gonna go to India, if you're a British, if you're a British officer in the uh 1800s, you don't want to get a malaria, you you drink your quinine. They eventually, you know, made this tonic out of it and they mix it with gin, and there you have it.
+
+[33:19] Now, uh, the amount of quinine in and quinine also has other cool properties like it, it's uh it's uh phosphorescent. So in clubs, if you go to a club and a black light hits it, it lights up. It's kinda cool. Anyway, so uh quinine is in the tonic water, although that is the characteristic flavor, the bitterness flavor of it. Quinine is not there in enough of a quantity to stop you from getting malaria.
+
+[33:42] So if you're you know, don't think you're gonna, you know, cure your malaria with tonic water, right? In fact, uh the doses that you need for uh for for medicinal reasons are much higher, I think at least two times higher. Um the in the in the way that we normally put it into a drink is by using a uh derivative of salt of quinine quinine sulfate, right? And you can buy this stuff, but you have to be incredibly careful when you buy it because uh an overdose of quinine is uh you know a b a bad thing. It causes a disease known as chincotism, it's it's no good.
+
+[34:12] You have to be careful. Uh until recently you could just go in and buy it uh at a pharmacy because people will take it for leg cramps, but now it's considered a prescription medication. So there's two ways you can do it. You can get a doctor friend to write your prescription for quinine, uh you know, because you say, Oh, I have terrible leg cramps, and then they'll prescribe you some quinine. You can get quinine and do it that way.
+
+[34:32] Or I mean I don't rec I don't uh that may or may not be fraud, in which case I don't recommend it. Uh but the uh you know the other way is you go to a lab supply house and you buy uh quinine sulfate uh and you have to buy the USP grade, which is basically a pharmaceutical made food uh considered okay for consumption, and you buy a uh you know, you buy a little little vial of it. The stuff I bought, I bought from a company called Spectrum Chemical, and I bought their USP grade of quinine sulfate. And but you have to be extremely careful with it. Quinine sulfate, you're gonna want to be using on the order of well, the the legal limit for tonic water is less than eighty three parts per million, which is way more bitter than you actually want it to be so you want the the best way to use uh quinine is first of all don't let other people handle it you know you know keep it safe so people don't just you know use it like they would sugar or creamer or acid or something like that and then um make a solution of uh quinine in water or in alcohol is actually better that you keep there and then make use it as kind of a bittering agent but you gotta you want to be careful not just for a safety reason but also quinine can become uh it'll go from being not bitter enough to being very much too bitter extremely bitter uh with very small additions because the taste at least in my mind seems to be cumulative so you know a little bit of tonic water a little bit of quinine okay a little more okay a little more you know okay and another the next shot and you're like boom it's it's ruined it's too bitter.
+
+[35:59] Um so uh I would just say uh you know be careful with it but you can get it it's not cheap. I paid eighty dollars for you know a little vial of it uh but that vial has lasted me years because it takes such a small amount of the quinine to uh to to bitter up your your tonic water and then of course you you know that for the rest of your quinine work for your tonic you're either going to want to use an acid mix which which lime acid to mimic the flavor of limes which I recommend would be uh two parts of citric acid which is the um which is the acid from lemons one part malic acid which is the acid from limes and then a pinch of succinic now succinic is really going to give you the characteristic authentic lime taste uh and that one you can only get from chemical supply houses like spectrum again is where I got mine USP but you can do a fairly good but don't you again be careful with that one because it's really nasty if you add too much. But um the citric and malic acid you can get from a homebrew supply shop. It's a really good way to do it. Otherwise, you can just make your tonic water uh with the clarified lime juice, uh, which you know we have uh on our blogs.
+
+[37:00] Go to ClickingIssues.com and look up uh clarification. We have a way to clarify lime juice, and you can make a tonic water with that. And that is delicious carbonated with uh gin. Uh Colin also asks um about uh he just got a big block of peat uh and he's one you know, peat as you know most of you might know. Uh they uh roast uh malt with uh peat when they're gonna do uh you know, scotch is more or less peaty, depending on which scotch is uh and it's that you have the characteristic flavor.
+
+[37:28] So he wants to use peat, maybe uh distill peat or get uh some essential oils out of it. Um but my impression is that you don't want to use the peat directly, and that the peat is good for making peat flavor when it's being burned. So I would uh I would definitely use the peat. Uh you can smoke something with uh peat, throw some peat on the on the grill, and then uh and then let the tr flavor transfer over to your food from from roasting uh from uh you know, using the peat to to burn it. I've never actually used it, but it's something I would definitely definitely love to do.
+
+[38:02] I'm kind of like secretly fascinated with peat and also with uh bog mummies. I'm I'm with like you know, bogs, you know, what I like to pee is you go, you cut peat with bug, and there's very acidic uh conditions because you're breaking down stagnant moss in there and and it releases chemicals and acidity down there that basically you know well can uh you know, so human beings back in the days, you know, druid days and whatnot, that you know you would have these people who one reason another human sacrifice execution, whatever, killed and thrown into these bogs, and they're preserved for thousands of years very well. Um so I'm kind of have a secret fascination, I guess not so secret anymore, with uh bog bodies. But another interesting thing about pogs that uh that I'm fascinated with is the idea of bog butter. So you'll have these strange fat deposits in bogs uh called bog butter.
+
+[38:49] And then I I believe, although I can't verify this, that some people would actually put uh fat into bogs to preserve them, and then you could use them like a long, long, long, long, long, long time there. So I'd always find some ancient stash of bog butter and then um and then cook with it, but you know, uh I don't think that's uh that's gonna happen. But speaking of things that I've always wanted to have happen, and just did happen, is uh, you know, in in the US, it's very difficult to get game birds to eat unless you are a hunter because you cannot hunt meat in this commercially in the United States. So uh so anyway, so it's very difficult to get birds like woodcock, we have to get it shipped from Scotland to cost an arm and leg, uh, grouse, uh did I say grouse? No, yeah, grouse, woodcock, teal, which is kind of like a tiny duck, wigeon, which is kind of another kind of small duck, uh, knife all these birds, these great birds that you know I've read about my whole life, these great game birds, and I've never had them before.
+
+[39:47] And went uh two nights in a row to a restaurant here in London called Hicks. And the first night they had grouse on the menu, which I instantly ordered, I got the last one. I I almost had to beat the crap out of someone else so that I can make sure that I got this l last grouse because I wasn't gonna leave London without having it. And then by chance, and delicious by the way, like game bean, uh unlike any other bird I had ever had. Like everyone's says, you know, well, grouse is just different.
+
+[40:11] And I was like, well, it is, you know what I mean? Uh and menu says, you know, make and cane shot if you eat it and whatnot. And the next day we went back randomly, and the person apologized for, you know, making us go to the same restaurant twice in a row, but their menu was almost completely changed. And I just I know it must have hit a really good menu change. And they had a game feast, a game bird feast with woodcock, teal, wigeon, and snipe.
+
+[40:29] And I w uh I just went I went I went crazy. First of all, woodcock, you know, the what you know the what they say about woodcock, and it's one of these things with a really long beak, is that it takes off and as it takes off, it poops out everything that's in its intestine. So it's not basically eviscerated. All the guts are still on the inside of the woodcock and they cook it and and they serve it to you and it's got this a long beak and the head's still on the whole thing's basically entirely whole. And uh and all four birds were let's just put it this way, they're a little bit bloody.
+
+[41:01] I w I did spit some shot out onto the plate they're in the middle and this gives you even an idea of what the meal is like. So uh so anyway, so I'm there with uh these you know two friends of mine from uh 69 Coba Clow, Mimi and and Stuart, Nastasha, they're there and uh Mimi's actually I guess not for C S and Coba Clow she works with the Havana Club. We can't buy in the US. There's a fake Havana Club in the U.S. It's not really the real one a real Hannon Club can't come to the US because we're on Bargain of Cuba.
+
+[41:26] Anyway, I'm sitting there and uh I'm eating these birds like literally there's blood from the birds all like all over my hands, not looking over I have like a piece of heart from the woodcock like stuck on my knuckle. You know that I'm looking across the table and I'm sure I have blood all over my face from the and everyone's completely horrified. But and I said look, you know I I'm sorry uh I'm sorry but I've never had the it had a chance to eat these birds before and you know you really need to pick them up and it's really not like a neat and danger and I apologize for you know making such a mess of it but you know that's kind of that's what it is. I think I'm done. And I apologize to everyone for this horrific carnage scene.
+
+[42:07] I'm sure the entire restaurant was repulsed. Uh and and as the guy play say play plate away, he's like, oh so how was the head? And this is after I just apologize for making me this. And I was like, well what do you mean? He's like, well you're supposed to split the head of the woodcock open and suck the brains out.
+
+[42:23] So then after all that I sit there and I shove the knife through the head of the woodcock and split it in half and then uh suck the brains out. So I think that was kind of the last nail in the the coffin of decency uh for the heat. But it was a chance um that uh uh you know that I've never had before but I was that meal and I'll leave you with this that meal I had uh right after Nastasha and I had just eaten uh you know several hundreds of varieties of fruit uh so it was it's uh it was an a gastrointestinal extravaganza that day. Let's just say I had uh we had you know we're about three quarters full up with uh with uh mangled fruit parts and then we stuffed it down with yeah with with uh with our game birds and then of course I had to have dessert because it's me uh and since I was in England and going full traditional I had of course the famous pudding spot dick and this has been Cooking Issues live from Heathrow London come back to uh come back to us to the next week when we'll be back in New York City um don't know where Spoiled to be
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+[0:16] Got me on this corner. And I don't know where I'm at. Supposed to be my baby. You are listening to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network. I'm Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, where you phone in with all of your cooking related questions.
+
+[0:37] I'm here today with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, and we are back in the United States finally, right? We're we're done with we're done with the majority of our travels. We're good now? I think so. Yeah, okay, good.
+
+[0:46] Alright. So call in all your questions live to the studio at 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. And uh today's show is brought to you by 360 Cookware, uh, which it's new, I guess I'm not familiar with it. Are you familiar with it?
+
+[1:01] No. Nastasha? No. So 360 Cookware is a uh top of the line stainless steel cookware that is made in America in the greenest cookware manufacturing facility in the country. It can be used to make all of your favorite recipes, but it also gives the option to cook using vapor technology.
+
+[1:14] What does that mean? I've no idea. Which creates a seal that surrounds the food with intense heat, locking in vitamins, moisture, and flavor without added oil, fat, or excess water. Visit our website at 360cookware.com for more information. Uh what do they think that means, vapor?
+
+[1:27] You think it means they're steaming it? That's what it sounds like. Sounds like it's steaming it. When I hear vapor technology and cooking in general, I think steam. Steam, right?
+
+[1:37] Yeah. So what they're saying is that they're steaming it. We have a collar. Oh, we have a collar? Alright.
+
+[1:41] So let's take a let's take the caller and then hopefully someday we'll figure out what 360 vapor technology is. Hello, caller, you're on the air. Hey, is that me? Hey. Outstanding.
+
+[1:50] Um, so I had a question for you actually about um Sue V cooking. Okay. And particularly the vacuum packing. Mm-hmm. So uh Thomas Keller, fairly famously is claims that uh the home units, the food savers and things like this manage to remove moisture.
+
+[2:08] Um and I'm trying to figure out how that's possible compared to one of the very high end, you know, eight and ten thousand dollar restaurant systems. Right. Okay. Well, you can by the way, at home you can get uh a like a commercial grade one now for I think about fifteen hundred bucks, like a really really, really nice one. It's small, it's not as big as the commercial one.
+
+[2:27] So you don't have to go spend quite as much money. But I think what he's referring to is uh you know, for those of you out there that have a food saver, right, which is the kind of the normal one. There's other manufacturers now, but the kind of the one that's been around the longest is the food saver. When it's sucking a vacuum, you have to use specialized vacuum bags that have little um crisscross lines in them, right? Right.
+
+[2:47] And that's is this what you have? You have the food saver? Yeah. Yeah. And so the the problem with those bags is is that the way that it sucks vacuum is by using those little uh lines as straws and literally sucking the vacuum out of the out of the out of the bag.
+
+[3:00] The problem is is that um basically the air is constantly coming out and air pressure is pushing on the bag, which forces liquid into those little straws. So if you let it run, right, it sucks the the liquid, literally sucks the liquid out of the bag like it's a straw. And that's probably what he's referring to. I don't think he's referring to it drying something out, right? Now that doesn't happen in uh commercial vacuum machine because, right, in a commercial vacuum machine, the bag is inside of a chamber and the whole chamber is evacuated.
+
+[3:31] So there's not extra pressure pushing on the outside of the bag while you're sucking the vacuum on the inside. So the liquids tend to stay in the bag. I mean, sometimes you can boil them because as you put a vacuum on something, you lower the temperature at which it boils, it can boil out. But if you don't boil it, the liquids are going to stay in the bag because the there's no air pressure on the bag while you're sucking the vacuum. And that's kind of the key, aside from the fact that uh uh the food saver's vacuum pump isn't nearly as strong as a regular vacuum, you know, real commercial vacuum pump.
+
+[3:59] That's the fundamental difference, and that's why a chamber machine is so useful as compared to a machine that just sucks the vacuum uh on the bag itself. Does that make makes sense? It does. Is there is there a way that you can sort of eyeball it and make sure that you can use something like this? I d yeah, I just bought one of these um uh um 2D pros from uh from poly science.
+
+[4:25] Um so I'm sort of tapped out as far as equipment experience for a little while. So um Yeah, here's the good news, right? So uh I I have a f had a food saver, it broke, but I almost always used it to seal potato chip bags, or if you're gonna uh save something for a long time in the freezer, it's really good. Um if you have to use a food saver to bag sauces, a lot of people will freeze the sauces first and then put them in as frozen so that it won't get sucked up. But uh, to me, that's kind of a pain in the pain in the rear.
+
+[4:51] I tend to do most of my work just using Ziploc bags. Um like m a lot of things, like let's say you're gonna work with fish, right? If you're gonna work with fish, you don't really want to suck a uh hard vacuum on it because it tends to hurt the texture of the fish, right? Or it or even chicken, if you suck a hard vacuum on a chicken, it tends to make it taste more like a canned chicken when it's cooked for some reason. I don't really know the reason why.
+
+[5:12] It's just test after test we've seen this, we've seen this happening. So uh 90% of the time when I'm cooking at home, actually basically 100%, unless I'm doing eggs, I put my stuff in Ziploc bags, and it's extremely easy to learn the technique to pack very effectively in a Ziploc. There's there's pictures on on cookingissues.com. But briefly what you do is is you you seal the entire bag, you put some liquid in, like usually oil or butter or whatever, or or a sauce if you're doing something like that. You seal the bag and you leave just you put your finger in the top where it's not sealed.
+
+[5:43] One section isn't sealed, the rest is sealed, and then you you uh um put the bag underwater. As you put the bag underwater, the water displaces the air, and right before the bag sinks underneath the liquid entirely, you snip the last little bit closed, you press it closed, and it works great. I mean, I wouldn't use it on very, very, very high temps because though those Ziploc bags aren't meant to get all the way to the boil, but for ninety percent of what you're doing or more, it's a really good technique and doesn't require any sort of uh equipment and and it handles sauces very, very well. So I I moved quite a long time ago to that kind of a technique at home instead of using uh instead of using the food saver, which makes an excellent potato chip sealer, by the way. Um I mean I don't know if that's another thing.
+
+[6:23] If you have the the the poly science, here's one little um one little note I'll give you because uh I mean we if you're at home you might not have this problem, but you know, we've been using the new circulator at the at the school at the French culinary for quite a while, and under the use of a bunch of people who aren't necessarily trained to use it, one of the main problems we've had with the new unit is people have set the offset. Okay, so like if you notice on the new circulator, if you press the button you can change between Fahrenheit and Celsius. There's a i but the next thing after that is something called the offset. And I've had a bunch of chefs turn the offset like two and three degrees because they thought they were setting the temperature, and then the circulator is off by two or three degrees. And it's not that there's anything wrong with the circulator.
+
+[7:05] It's just that people have uh it's it's too easy for them to to mess with the offset. So if anyone plays around with your circulator, make sure they put the offset back uh to zero. The best thing to do is to is to put your new circulator into an ice water bath, with lots of ice and water. Let it like set it to like minus 10 Celsius or something like that, just so that it doesn't want to heat the bath. Let it run for like 10 minutes, and then you can see exactly how far off of zero is.
+
+[7:32] They're within a half a degree always. But you can set the offset then down or up to exactly calibrate it to zero, and then it'll be dead, dead perfect forever as long as no one messes with the offset. Is this is this helpful at all or no? Definitely very much so. Alright, well, listen, uh, thank thanks for calling and uh you know uh call back any any time if you want more advice on on uh on bagging.
+
+[7:54] We love we love bagging, right, Nastasha? We do, even I can do it. All right, thanks so much. Thanks for that, guys. Okay.
+
+[8:00] Um, so we have uh another question in and uh it's from Michael Griffiths who was actually at the Harold McGee lecture series last week, and uh I was a horribly or two weeks ago, I was horribly, horribly, horribly sick. Like I don't know, I've never kind of been It's unlike you. I was I mean uh you know chills, like a horrible, like uh let me put it this way uh without getting too graphic, right? Uh it turns out that if you uh expel everything out of your body for like days and days without being able to take anything in, that you lose some of your uh you lose the enzymes, you you lose the uh you know the enzymes that allow you to to digest lactose, right? So uh, you know, I now know if very temporarily I know what it's like to be lactose intolerant.
+
+[8:50] It sucks. Yeah. Yeah, it really sucks. I'll never make fun of someone for it again because it really sucks, you know? Um anywho, so I was very sick, I wasn't at my best during the class.
+
+[8:59] In fact, I had to leave uh a couple hours early just because you know the the shaking sh uh shaking and chills and the you know it was a little much with the the they had a space heater fired directly underneath me and had me wrapped in like three three sets of coats so that I my body just wasn't regulating temperature. It was just a nightmare. Uh but unfortunately I didn't get to set up the rotary evaporator and uh Michael really wanted to see the rotary evaporator and it didn't get set up because I wasn't there and uh there was a seal missing and so it was never able to get uh work properly. And I I apologize, Michael. If you're ever in the in the neighborhood, I owe you a rotovap demo, right, Nastasha?
+
+[9:33] Right, yeah, yeah. Anyway, no, not your fault. I mean, like I wasn't there, I wasn't available. But um we'll show you how to fire up the rotovap. It's it's one of those things where if you if you're not familiar with every single part of the rotary evaporator, and for those of you who don't know what the heck I'm talking about, rotary evaporator is a piece of laboratory equipment that's a vacuum stool.
+
+[9:49] We're actually demoing one tomorrow on the Martha Stewart show. Yes. Which we'll I'll talk more about that later. Um but uh uh you need to know what every single part does, and if it if you're just kind of remembering instead of like knowing intimately every part, it's almost impossible to set up properly. But I'll I'll do it for you if you're ever in the neighborhood.
+
+[10:06] And I happen to be in the neighborhood and firing up the rotor vap at the same time. But he has an actual question, uh two actually. One is about parsnips. So uh he juices champion uh parsnips in the champion uh juicer. The champion juicer for those of you that don't know, it uh it's a great little juicer.
+
+[10:21] It doesn't do citrus, it doesn't do wheatgrass, but it's basically got these little teeth that spin and it just m you know m mashes the juice all the heck, mashes fruit or whatever vegetables all the heck, and then presses the juice through a screen and then the the pulp, which is fairly dry, you can run it again if it's not comes out the front. I love the champion. We juice apples all day long and that thing with juice, carrots and that thing, and you know, ginger, horseradish, it'll juice most anything. Um so uh he's juicing parsnips in it, and he's taking the juice and he's heating it, and then it's all of a sudden thickening up. And I'm guaranteeing, I'm not guaranteeing, I don't know, but my guess is that the reason it's sticking up is that parsnips actually contain a good bit of starch in them.
+
+[11:00] And so if you're taking the juice and heating it, you're probably functionalizing the starch. This is my guess, and it's thickening up just like uh just like a starch wood. That I mean that's just my guess. That's why you know the st you know, parsnips contain a lot of starch, and to prove it, like if you store them for a long time, they get sweeter because the starch is being converted to sugar. So if you have a parsnip that's not very sweet, it's gonna have a proportionally higher amount of starch in it.
+
+[11:22] And I guess depending on how you're juicing it or how much the thing is being broken up by the juicer, you're gonna get more or less of that starch in the juice. I don't know if you're adding the pulp back to it either to to add that, but there's definitely gonna be some free starch in there that is you know not functionalized until it's been heated and boiled and then it's it's gonna thicken up. This is my guess. Uh another question, and we'll take this before we go off into into break, is he has a question about using agar and marshmallows. Um so a lot of people actually are interested.
+
+[11:50] And the agar, by the way, is for those of you that don't know, uh, is my favorite hydrocolloid, my favorite kind of gelling agent. I love agar because it's easily available, it's you know completely natural, been used for like a bazillion years, and it's extremely versatile. I love it. Uh in fact, we're teaching a class where I'm gonna do a whole bunch of agar tricks this Thursday and Friday. We're doing hydrocolloids at the at the FCI.
+
+[12:11] Uh so um anyway, so the holy grail of for a lot of people are vegetarian marshmallows, and um, and so typically the marshmallow will be made with uh gelatin or mixture of gelatin and egg white to provide the foaming and the gelatin sets, and that provides the structure for the marshmallow. And so his question is is uh substituting agar instead of gelatin. And I would not uh do that. I would not use agar agar. Um agar is very porous and uh tends to have a lot of syneresis, a lot of a lot of weeping in it.
+
+[12:43] Typically, people use uh mixtures of carrageenin, which is a similar gelling agent, and uh and locust bean gum, which provide so when you take carrageenin, kappa carrageen, and there's a bunch of different kinds. When you take kappa caragenin, which is very brittle, right, but also, you know, is forms a good structure, and then you mix it with locust bean gum, another, you know, uh classic, you know, all natural, it's from a seed. Uh, and and you mix that the locust bean gum softens the carrageenin and makes it somewhat gelatin-like. And so there's very specific mixtures of um of uh uh kappa carrageenin and possibly other types of carrageenin and locust bean gum that are manufactured specifically to make uh marshmallows. Um and they're made by the C P.
+
+[13:28] Kelco Corporation, that's C P K-E-L-C-O, and uh one that they make specifically for marshmallows is genutine uh G-E-N-U-T-I-N-E, genutine X9303, and I believe it's available through Le Sanctuary's website or Las Sanctuary's website out in California. And if not, you could contact CP Celco directly and find a source for it. But that is a special carrageenan mix that's made to function just like gelatin in a marshmallow, and it should whip up without uh any problems. If you go into the hydrocolloid primer section of the uh of our blog, Cooking Issues. There's a little discussion that people have done on vegetarian marshmallows that might also be of help.
+
+[14:05] Anyway, hope this was helpful. We'll go out to the first commercial break. Call in your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 cooking issue. We're gonna have a bunk good time.
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+[14:42] We're gonna have a bunk good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bunk good time. We gotta take you high. We gotta take the high brother.
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+[15:18] Now I won't have a body. Let's bread blow up by a few courses. And then I wanna wave me and let's go into that with us. I'm gonna get that belly with a little horn over there. Take us higher.
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+[16:28] You are listening to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network. Call in all of your cooking related questions, technical or not, to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. We're gonna be here for another segment or so, so you still have time to call. Okay.
+
+[16:44] So uh here's a question. Uh a couple of weeks ago I waxed rhapsodic apparently about the wonders of fresh tofu. Uh and uh Derek has made it himself but encountered two big problems. When he's heating the ground soybeans to make soy milk, the mixture foams up an absurd amount, uh, and containing the mess was problematic. You know, I too have this problem uh at home, absurd messes, but for many, many reasons, not just for making tofu.
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+[17:08] Uh cooking in small batches made it more manageable but also more time consuming. Any tricks for controlling the foaming. All right, well, uh I think I said mentioned this before, the book to get on tofu is uh the book of tofu uh by William uh Shirtliff and Akiko uh I I I can't pronounce her name very properly, but uh Ayagi. How do you pronounce that? I don't know, I'm terrible at pronunciation, I'm just such a jerk, such a moron.
+
+[17:31] Anyway, I happen to have it in front of me because I was rereading it and trying to figure out all your problems. I think I found out your problem. Um when you're making here's the process of tofu for those of you that don't that don't know making tofu, you need to go m first of all, go make your own tofu. If you want like a highly, highly technical tofu source, actually, Nathan Mirvold's book, when it's coming out, Nathan Miravold and Chris Young, the the Uber Tech Book that's coming out uh very soon, like the tech book to end all tech books, has a huge section on tofu and also on uh tofu like curds from other things like from peanuts, uh I believe from edamame and from from any of these things. So that's good, like when that comes out, that's gonna be the revolutionary tofu tofu curd to end all tofu curd like books, I think.
+
+[18:14] But uh in the meantime, I will I will tell you this. So, what you do is you take soybeans, right? You know, hopefully relatively good quality soybeans that aren't too too old, you want to soak them for eight to ten hours, you break them open, you look at the inside to verify that they've soaked through but haven't over soaked, right? Then you you I usually use about a cup and a half, which is what uh you know, the shirt lift book recommends. Then uh you're going to blend those with with very hot water in a blender, right?
+
+[18:42] Then you're going to add that to more water and heat it, right, until it just gets to the boil. You're not going to boil it with all the pulp in it. Then you're going to uh pour out that you know, you're gonna get a sack like a cloth. Then you're gonna pour the that entire mix, it's got the it's got the you know the pulp and the and the soy milk into a sack and press it out, then you're gonna remoisten the you know the stuff that's left over, which is called okara, that's like the hulls and the solids, right? Remix that with some more hot water, bring her up to a boil, and then and then pour it, pour it back out again to get the the the soy milk out.
+
+[19:16] And then you boil the milk uh to kill, you know, kill all the the enzymes in it to prevent you from uh from using all the all the protein. If you try and boil it with the with the actual okara in it with the pulp in it I think you're gonna have horrible boiling mess problems you're probably gonna get uh okara you know boiled and stuck onto the bottom of your pot it's gonna be a king hell mess. So uh what I typically do is a little bit different from what they do in the because in the book they're very concerned about energy consumption which is smart because this guy is very very concerned about all this kind of stuff. But in general I have about seven and a half cups of water that you bring uh you know you keep it hot it's basically almost at the boil and then you have uh another pot with uh another like eight cups of water a boiling in it and it's just gonna sit there and boil and so what you'll do is you'll take uh you'll take like a half of the soybeans that you're gonna have soaked if you start with a cup and a half it'll increase slightly after it soaks and you blend that with two cups of water out of the out of the boiling water pot blend the hell out of it hopefully in a vita prep then pour it into the pot with seven and a half cups then blend another batch of uh soybeans with two cups water pour pour it in take like a half cup of that boiling water rinse out your blender pour it in right bring that whole thing to uh a boil then drain it off press out the okara mix another three cups of the boiling water that you have left over with the okara to get the rest out squeeze it again and then you have about a cup left over to use with your solidifier. Now he also had problems he was using nigari nigari is the traditional Japanese solidifier that's used and it's basically a derivative of seawater.
+
+[20:48] It's not the the sodium part they'll take the sodium chloride off off the seawater and then all the other calcium and magnesium salts that are left over in it you make the the nigari out of and you can buy Nigari a bunch of different ways you can buy it as a liquid, you can buy it as a solid. I have to say this, I have not had that good luck with uh Nigari myself. Um I I would say you'd probably I don't know what you're using, but in our in the batch size that I do, which starts with a cup and a half of soybeans and ends up with about 15 um you know, fifty fifteen cups of water added to it. Um we end up I they recommend using like two and a half uh to four teaspoons of the Nigari, depending on whether you're using the solid or or the liquid. But I use Epsom salts, which I really like, even though apparently I'm a Philistine jerk, like moron for liking Epsom salts, but you can just go into Dwayne Reed or CVS or whatever, buy Epsom salts, don't use too much of it because it's a laxative.
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+[21:37] I use about two teaspoons of Epsom salts. Epsom salt is uh magnesium sulfate, it's awesome stuff. You can also use calcium chloride, which all of you hydrocolloid fans probably have sitting around, even though it tastes horrible, it's not going to be that noticeable in the in the final batch. I would use also about two teaspoons of that or two teaspoons of magnesium chloride, which isn't going to taste nearly as bad as the calcium chloride. Um and you can use any one of those things.
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+[22:00] I've really had no luck using acid to make it, but other people, other people have. And you're gonna want to put it in in several stages. You stir some in and then you pour some over the top and let it sit, and it takes minutes for the curd to form. Another thing you're gonna want to do is when you're getting the curds, you you're gonna want to press down on them and get the way out. Don't try to agitate it too much, or you're gonna break the curds up into tiny things and it's gonna be a nightmare and all hell's gonna break loose.
+
+[22:21] Uh so anyway, so I hope that is that sound helpful or does that sound like I have a question. Okay. My mom buys tofu, my dad won't eat it because he's like a meat and potatoes kind of guy. So what's the best recipe you have with tofu? Well, that's interesting.
+
+[22:34] When I make my own tofu, I tend to just want to eat it because you put a lot of work into it and it's delicious. I I I hate the idea of taking tofu and making it into some fake other crap. You know what I mean? The problem with most tofu that you buy, unless you're going to a like a like a high quality tofu shop where they're making their tofu every day, is that the tofu's been soaked in uh so much water, it's sitting there in water that all of the actual flavor of the soybean has been leached out of it and it's basically worthless. You know, when you're making your own tofu, you have I mean I'm uh I don't I'm not gonna offend anyone here.
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+[23:06] I mean I don't mean it's worthless. You know what I mean? It's just it's not for me. Like I never use it. I never buy it.
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+[23:09] Like I like making tofu and using it, but I never buy it. When you make it yourself, you can you can use like you can keep it like a cloud tofu, which is not pressed at all, which is amazing in soups. A lot of Korean soups uh done that way, it's delicious, you know what I mean? You can make uh a very soft tofu, you can make a firmer tofu, you can mix stuff into the tofu and set it. But for me, the main key is that you haven't completely gotten rid of all the the original whey that's in there, and there's no extra added flavorless water that's leached out what flavor it has.
+
+[23:40] Because tofu has a really delicate, amazing flavor when it's used when it's when it's made fresh and it's used just as is. And I literally like I can't I I never have enough to use in recipes because I'm always just you know cutting it and then eating it with like a an amazing dipping sauce. But you know, if you're gonna buy tofu, you know, I'll fry the hell out of it. That's gonna help. You know what I mean?
+
+[24:00] That's gonna help, you know. I don't know. Like uh let's see if you can make it. Yeah, making tofu is amazing and and it shows you it shows you kind of what you can do. I mean, it's really it I just don't I just don't much like the tofu that you buy in the store.
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+[24:12] Like I just can't I mean I can eat it when it's you know chopped up and put into things, but I'm never like, well, you know, store bought tofu, that's amazing. We can't wait to have another thing of uh store bought tofu. You know what I mean? Yeah. Okay.
+
+[24:25] So uh Dan from Seattle writes in and says, Hello, I'm a fairly serious amateur cook. After enough media horror stories, I've started grinding my own meat uh essentially all the time for any recipe that calls for ground beef, you have uh you have great uh, you know, sticktuitiveness and patience, because that's kind of a pain in the butt to haul out your meat grinder every time you're gonna make meat. I have one problem on a relatively frequent basis. I get small bone chips even after very thorough trimming. Is there any systematic way to avoid this?
+
+[24:44] Okay. Uh first of all, notes on notes on meat. Uh when you're grinding your own meat, obviously you want to make sure that the cutters are sharp. I don't know whether you're using a hand grinder or the kitchen aid attachment, right? But you want to make sure the cutters stay sharp, otherwise you're going to be pasting out and uh and hurting, you know, basic basically pasting out the fat and overheating it when it's going in.
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+[25:08] Another thing is you're gonna want to cut any kind of uh sinew or anything you don't want to eat out in general because it's not going to be pleasant, and sometimes it can get stuck in the grinder as it goes through. So that's that's also bad. Third, when you're grinding meat, you're going to want to, and I haven't answered your question yet, I realize that. Third, when you're grinding uh meat, you're gonna want to almost par freeze it, right? So that uh so that the t the texture stays good when it freezes through.
+
+[25:32] You want to like not frozen solid, but basically where it just starts to feel stiff and almost got a little bit of a crunch on the outside where it starts to freeze, don't freeze it harder than that. You feed it through, you're gonna have much better uh results straight off the bat, right? Now, some people pass it through twice. It really depends on the technique you're using, what kind of texture you want, whether you need to pass it through once or twice. But those are the basics of it.
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+[25:55] I think the main problem people have, and I know you say you're doing a thorough trimming, is uh not trimming the meat properly. If you're putting uh just big chunks of meat in and you and the sinews going in and cartilage is going in, you're not gonna have a good product. So I think trimming it uh before you grind it is the most important thing you can do. Trim it into the pieces, then put those pieces on a sheet tray, put them in the freezer, par freeze them, then grind them. That's the way to get good results.
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+[26:22] Also, remember, please make sure to thoroughly clean your and sanitize your meat grinder so that nothing gets in there because you know otherwise you're introducing the same problems that you could get in commercially ground meat. Now, as for bones, I'm if you the best if you're buying meat that was cut on a band saw, right? So like you're buying like just chunks of beef that were cut on a bandsaw and then trimming, there's always the possibility, because I don't know what cut of meat you're using, right? But there's always the possibility that you'll get a little piece of like chine bone or something in there that's very hard to see. Now, you could when you trim trim the pieces before you grind them and before you f uh freeze them down to grind them, if you trim all the pieces down and feel all over them, you know, just rub your fingers all around them, you'll be able to feel if there's any sort of any sort of chips.
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+[27:09] But one way to do it is to buy if you're buying whole muscle cuts, right, like whole pieces to to grind and then trimming them into the into the pieces yourself before you grind them. That's the way to avoid a uh a lot of bones because you can see if someone's cut through, for instance, like the spine or something like that, or you see like a lot of bone things, you can see the entire structure of the bone, and it's gonna be a lot easier to cut all of those pieces out and trim down than it's gonna be if someone just takes meat and puts it in a band saw and it's hard to tell what the bone structure and the muscle structure is, right? So that's the first uh thing to do, and it also gives you like a real sense for the quality of the meat that you're using because you're gonna be chopping it into strips yourself. Um that's when I grind, that's typically what I'm doing, and I don't have problems with bone chips, so I'm assuming I just I'm just assuming that you're buying pre cut me uh like stew meat that's been like put through uh a band saw, and that's always there's always a slight chance that someone's gonna get a bone chip in. What do you think, Nastasha?
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+[28:06] I think that's a good answer, dude. You have to take a break. Oh, all right. So uh we're going on to our second break, call your questions in to 718 497 2128. That's 718 497 218 2128 cooking issues.
+
+[28:21] You know what? When I yell groove like this, oh say I got the bit, baby. Yeah, yeah. Black way of young man. Someone got a groove like this.
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+[28:49] No. No. I need to grit. Grip, got to grit. Need to grit.
+
+[29:11] You know, I believe Brad Thomas. Brother. I'm getting ready to wave y'all in. You know what? I feel so down.
+
+[29:21] I need to get down in order for me to get down. I got to get in D. Auto for me to get down, I gotta get in D. Need to get in D. Dog the D.
+
+[29:36] Down D. Welcome back to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network. Call in all of your cooking related questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. Coming to you live from Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn.
+
+[29:56] So, uh, so Nastasha, tomorrow's a big day. We're gonna be on uh Yeah, we're gonna be on the Martha Stewart. Well, someone's gonna need to run the rotive app while I'm talking to her, right? No. Huh?
+
+[29:59] No, you're doing it legally. Yeah, but we need someone needs to run it. Someone physically needs to run the machine while I'm there. Uh for people out there who are thinking of getting a rotive app, it does not run itself, folks. The machine does not run itself.
+
+[30:16] And we're doing a live segment tomorrow, which is going to include we're gonna carbonate, we're gonna be doing a gin and tonic where we're actually it's pretty cool. Uh we're gonna take a so for those of you out there that have access to liquid nitrogen. Kudos to you. If not, get yourself access to liquid nitrogen. It's an amazing, amazing material.
+
+[30:32] So we're gonna take uh we're gonna take blood oranges, because Nastasha's fascinated with blood oranges, and we're going to uh use uh an enzyme, Pectinx SPL, our favorite miracle enzyme, and we're gonna chemically supprem the the uh the the blood oranges. And the reason to do that is because of you that aren't hip hip to the fact, right? So with the way supreming is basically where you you cut the peel off and then you and then you slice it. You don't you only have the little little vesicles, little pips. You don't have any of the uh any of the uh what's it called?
+
+[31:02] The membrane. Yeah, the membrane in there, right? So that's supreming, right? Problem with supreming a blood orange is if you suppress a blood orange, they're gonna leak everywhere, and we don't want any leakage because we don't want the we want the drink to stay perfectly clear. We don't want any blood orange juice leaking out of the thing.
+
+[31:15] So we're not gonna suppress them normally. We're gonna use Pectanex SPL, our favorite uh uh pectin uh lye slash hemicellulose uh breaking down enzyme. That's the same one we use to make French fries. It's the same one we use when we're clarifying any any damn fruit juice, right? We just we we go through SPL like the end of the world is coming, and you can buy it from CookingIssues.com.
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+[31:37] Uh yes or no? Yeah, we have a little bit left. Well, we're gonna have to get more. I mean, we use that stuff all the time. Anyway, it's a miracle enzyme.
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+[31:44] The guys at NovaZimes who make it, they admit that it's a miracle enzyme. Pectanex SPL. Anyway, so uh we're gonna take uh Pectan X SPL and chemically supreme it so that we don't have to we can get rid of all the membranes without actually touching uh you know uh with a knife the uh the blood orange and then we're gonna put that in liquid nitrogen and freeze it solid, and what what happens there is that uh when you freeze uh citrus in liquid nitrogen and then really hard, and then you hit it with a rolling pin, uh all the little juice vesicles, the little pips break apart uh and they stay whole and they're not broken. And then you can use them uh as a garnish, which is what we're gonna do. So we're basically gonna pour a gin and tonic over a bunch of these uh frozen blood orange things.
+
+[32:27] And we tried it yesterday. It's pretty, it's pretty darn cool. Pretty pretty good looking. It tastes good. And uh Don Lee, uh bartender friend of ours, Don Lee, suggested we call it gin sack sack after the Korean sack sack pulpy drink.
+
+[32:40] Sack sack. Anyway, so we're gonna do that. We're gonna run the rotary evaporator uh live, which we've never done it live before, have we? For a live show? Yeah, for Jimmy.
+
+[32:48] Well, Jimmy Fallon was pre- pre-recorded. We ran it like it was live, but it was pre-recorded. So anyway, uh so uh we'll get to have the fun of running a rotary evaporator. I think we're gonna do we normally do scotch and peanuts, we're gonna do bourbon and peanuts because our good folks at Maker's Mark sent us a whole bunch of makers' mark, and that's what we're gonna use. Uh so what else are we doing on that show, Stas?
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+[33:05] And I think the ISI trick. Oh, yeah, we're gonna do some uh ISI infusion with cocoa nibs. Uh at least this is what I think. Well, we'll see whether they parish down, but anyway, that's what that's what we're gonna work on. Speaking of pears, I know I spoke about this before.
+
+[33:17] I don't want to get too into it because I know I've spoken about it before. I don't want to bore the hell out of you guys, but this I have a qu uh uh uh I need help on this. The t obviously the two pears that Nastasha and I tasted that were like, damn, I need that pear, right? Damn. One was Narun Barun, N-A-R-U-N-B-A-R-U-N, right?
+
+[33:38] It's in the list of stuff at the Brogue Dale, which is the miracle fruit collection in Kent that Nastash and I visited a couple weeks ago. Narun Barun is the pear that uh it eats like a pear, it's juicy like a pear, it's has no astringency whatsoever, and has the aroma and taste of a quince. It's a miracle pear. Sucker is a miracle. However, it is nowhere else to be found.
+
+[33:59] I could not find any other collections that have it. I couldn't find any references to it. If anyone out there, and we we've gotten in touch with uh the agricultural extension, uh that the germplasm library for pears in the U.S., which is in Corvallis, Oregon. We haven't heard back from them yet. But if any of you have any knowledge of this pear or of any other pear that tastes like uh and smells like a quince but has no astringency, please get in touch with us because I'm desperately seeking this.
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+[34:25] It's a miracle pear. Hey Dave, how do you spell it? N-A-R-N-A-R-U-N, new word B-A-R-U-N, Narun Barun. Uh and it I think it's derived from Turkish meaning like like awesome scent or something like that. I think it lit in Turk in Turkish, I think it means like awesome scent or graceful scent or something like that.
+
+[34:43] The other pear that we can't seem to find that was delicious was uh Nimrod. And I know it sounds like you know, like like a moron like Nimrod, but it was right there on the thing, and we'll put pictures on because I'm gonna put the pear post up soon, god willing. Uh, but Nimrod tasted like candy. The pear tasted like candy. So we want anyone to find these two.
+
+[35:00] Correct, we want anyone to find these pears. Help us find these pears. Please help us find these pears. Um right? Yeah.
+
+[35:06] Yeah. Okay. Uh okay. So uh also uh we we're working on a uh a new project, one that we've actually been working on before, that we're extremely, extremely excited about, and it's not technically related uh technical related at all. At least we tried to make it technically related, but we couldn't.
+
+[35:23] No, is uh dragons beard candy. So for those of you out there who uh don't know anything about dragons beard candy, um what you what you're basically doing is it's hand-pulled cotton candy, right? And so uh what you do is is you cook uh a mixture of sugar. Technically, they would use maltose, uh the Chinese recipes I've seen use maltose, but you can just use a little bit of corn syrup. So, like for I think we did like a kilo of sugar and like uh a hundred or two hundred grams of corn syrup, uh, like a teaspoon of vinegar, which helps invert the sugar even more so that you're not gonna get too much crystallization problems, water.
+
+[35:59] You cook the whole thing up to about 133 Celsius, right? You pull it off at like 132, it's gonna rise up. Uh and then you let it cool down, you set it into kind of hockey puck shapes, right? Then after it sets into a hockey puck shape hard, you nuke it for like 10 seconds to make it pliable again, and then you form it into a donut, and then as you uh after you form it into a doughnut, you pull it uh in your hands, keeping it very even, and you keep dredging it in uh we used cornstarch, you can use rice flour, we use cornstarch. You keep dredging it in this and then flipping it as a figure eight, and and basically every time you flip it a figure eight and put it back into a circle again and keep pulling it, you're doubling the number of strands.
+
+[36:40] So we do this like like 13 uh 14 times, which is like you know, two to the thirteenth, so we're talking thousands of of street threads by the time you're done. Hence Dragon's beard, because it looks like little like threads of candy. The stuff is amazing, stuff is awesome. It's got an a fantastic texture, it's totally different from from cotton candy. The trick is, and we're gonna put it up on the blog, the trick is pulling it the right way.
+
+[37:02] And so you can look on uh vid there's videos on the web, a guy named uh Peter Pang, I'm not making that up, Peter Pang, P A N G has uh um and it's his recipe that we use basically. He has a a thing where you can see it, and there's a bunch of things if you look up Dragon's Beard on the internet that you can see uh people doing this, but they don't really tell you the key. Here's the key to it to do it to do it right the front hand, and you'll have to look on the on the website, but the front hand holds still the back hand uh pulls the candy and then you rev you reverse grip it again and pull it. And that's the that's the trick. If you really whenever um this is any chef by the way, it's not just with dragon's beard.
+
+[37:39] I almost always ignore everything that a chef is saying because a lot of times it's wrong. And I've spent all of my time focusing on their hands. Like how how are their hands connected to the food? How is their hand connected to the knife? Like, for instance, like learning soba.
+
+[37:54] I was at a soba class with soba's, you know, buckwheat noodles, and I was uh at a soba class once, and everyone was looking at the chef's face and while the chef was sitting there cutting the the noodles by hand, because you cut the silba noodles with a hand with a special knife. Useless. Well you're gonna look at the guy's face. The guy's face doesn't cut noodles, you know what I mean? The guy's hand cuts noodles.
+
+[38:12] So you want to sit there and like watch the watch the dude's hand, and that's how you learn anything. It's the same thing with the dragon's beard. The only way that we were able to get somewhat proficient is not by the instructions that are on the web, because they're basically useless. It's it's watching their hands and seeing what's happening and uh then practicing. Now that's the good news.
+
+[38:29] That's a good tip. That's a good tip, right? The the bad news is is that we that you know, I kind of like my job is a tech guy, right? The FCI, so I figured we're gonna tech it up. So I was like, we're not gonna use rice flour or cornstarch or any stupid cra Oh, by the way, I also spray it with a little pan before I start, so I'm cheating, so you know don't tell anyone.
+
+[38:45] That's kind of technical. Yeah, it's kind of technical. Yeah, right. There you go. Pam, boom, tech.
+
+[38:44] Anyway, so no. So we were like, okay, we're gonna use well, we tried tapioca and sorbit n. By the way, when you ask for tapioca maltodextrin and you want to make a powder out of an oil, I I mean I don't know how many times I've said this to people. Do not say just tapioca maltodextrin, say ensorbit uh M, I think. Uh tapioca maltodextrin from the National Starch Corporation, because no other tapioca maltodextrin will make a powder out of an oil.
+
+[39:13] Anyway, that said, I I say it a million times and it still happens. Anyway, whatever. So uh we tried to mix uh flavorful oil with tapioca maltodextrin and then cut it with cornstarch, and the texture wasn't as good, right? Right. Texture's no good.
+
+[39:24] And then we tried this is oh I had such high hopes for this. We we bought almond flour, which was delicious, uh, in Chinatown. It had it had almond and a little bit of bitter almond in it, so it tasted like an amaretto cookie. The flour did. It was great stuff by itself.
+
+[39:37] We then bought like some really expensive uh freeze-dried raspberries and blended them with the uh almond flour to make a powder, put it through a sieve so it was nice and fine, and then we dragged the uh the dragon's beard as we were making it instead of through cornstarch to that stuff, and it looked amazing. It tasted amazing, texture sucked. Texture was terrible. It was not nearly as good, right? Right, yeah.
+
+[40:00] Yeah. It's kind of unfortunate. So if any of you guys out there have a uh some sort of technique to to do this and to tech it up, then I can start demoing it like up, down, left, and right, because that stuff is super, super delicious, right? Mm-hmm. Okay.
+
+[40:14] So, uh on my way out, I'm gonna make a list. This is why people can keep me honest, right? Of what posts we're supposed to be working on on the blog. Right. Well, oh, and also people who who want to come to the hydrocolloids class, can they still sign up?
+
+[40:24] No, no, we have a hydrocolloids class uh on fr uh this Thursday and Friday, but it's already totally full because it's maxed out at seven well, kind of, yeah. Yes, it's maxed out at seventeen, so you'll have to sign up sign up for the next one. So, uh here are the posts that I'm gonna pretend that I'm doing very soon, but uh we need to get it done. By the way, so uh we've done a lot of tests recently on combu. Combu is delicious.
+
+[40:46] Someone's got to keep me honest. We've done a lot a lot of interesting work with uh combu, our good friend Yuji uh Haraguchi at uh at True Rural Foods, our Japanese uh mega supplier, sent us some amazing combu. We're tasted from the top, from the bottom, from the center, different concentrations. So it's really building on our old post on combu, which you can check out. I love myself some combu.
+
+[41:07] Gotta obviously do the pair post. Yeah. Someday I have to get back and finish those low temperature cooking things, right? But the most recent post we have out is on country ham. And I encourage you to go read it.
+
+[41:17] Uh I love American Country Ham. Uh one of our sponsors actually of our show is S. Wallace Edwards, who makes one of the finest country hams uh here in the United States. Uh which one did we have last night? Uh we had from Finchville Farms.
+
+[41:29] Finchville Farms is a manufacturer in Kentucky, uh that was actually just bought recently, uh a couple of years ago by someone, but who's kept all the old techniques that the Robertsons uh use and the Robertsons are still there, uh, you know, curing country hams. But uh I encourage everyone to buy more American country ham and just please, please do not well, you can cook it if you have to. Don't overcook a country ham. And better yet, don't cook it at all. Slice it on a meat slicer and serve it like prosciutto.
+
+[41:57] So uh go eat your country ham, try out S. Wallace Edwards, try out uh Finchville Farms, try out Colonel Newsom's out of Kentucky, try Alan Benton out of uh out of Tennessee. Try uh Burger Smoke House, which makes a bunch of commodity hams, also makes a really delicious uh attic age one, which is their special one. They're out of Missouri. What do you say?
+
+[42:16] Heritage. What heritage? They don't make a country ham. Oh. We'll just eat their ham.
+
+[42:21] Eat yeah, ham is look. Look, a fresh ham is a fresh is a fresh ham, right? Like, God wants cams to be cured. He especially wants them to be cured into country hams and or dry cured uh hams. Like this is like if your pig is gonna die, right?
+
+[42:36] You're gonna kill a pig, right? Pigs are smart, uh, they're friendly, they're amazing creatures. You're gonna kill this pig because it's so delicious. Like you owe it to the pig to make the the ham into a dry cured country ham. Seriously.
+
+[42:52] Like it's like the height of what can happen to uh uh a pig in terms of meat. It's the height of what can happen. I mean, um anyway, that's my feeling about it. Uh thank you. This has been Cooking Issues, and we'll see you again next week.
+
+[43:13] You've been listening to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network. And today at 3 p.m., there will be a live episode of the food scene on heritage radio network.com. Ian Nauer spent nearly a decade cooking in Gourmet's Tex Test Kitchen, catered for in the garden and the barefoot contessa herself, and now is writing a cookbook for Houghton Mifflin based on being a big city country boy. Again, tune into the food scene on Heritage Radio Network.com every Tuesday at 3 p.m. And right now we're running a promotion where you, the listener, can win five Porter House pork Shops.
+
+[43:48] All you need to do is send me an email at info at heritage radio network dot com or follow us on Twitter at HRN Update, send me a message, the first person to contact me with the code word bib salad will win five Porter House Pork Shops from Heritage Foods USA. Again, you've been listening to the Heritage Radio Network. Thanks for tuning in. Now when my baby sees me, she's gonna bust my head right in.
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+[0:25] Hello, you are listening to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network. I'm Dave Arnold, the host of Cooking Issues, the show where you call in with all your cooking related questions. Usually technical, but not always, right? I'm here in the studio today with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, the uh person who keeps the wheels on the on the cooking issues train. Uh call in all your questions to 718-497-2128.
+
+[0:47] That's 718-497-2128. We'll be here live for the next 45 minutes or so. And today's Cooking Issues is brought to you by Cabot Cheese. Uh Cabot Cheese of Vermont Dairy Farm family owned since 1919 and proud to be voted your favorite t uh four-time favorite champion cheddar, whoever you happen to be. Uh look for the really great taste of cabbage cheese in your favorite grocer dairy case or on the web at Cabot Cheese.com.
+
+[1:12] So Nastasha, apparently it's not carried at grocery stores that are not your favorite. Great. Only your favorite. It's only carried in your favorite your favorite local grocery store. Actually, you know, uh they cabot does actually make some uh excellent products.
+
+[1:23] Um I haven't actually had cabbots in a while, maybe we'll go try it. Anyway, uh so uh let's go to some before we have any on-air questions. Uh let's go to some questions from the email. Uh Ryan Santos writes in, I just recently became fascinated with Vietnamese egg soda, but they confuse me in theory. Uh, first of all, uh everything I read on the internet says that the soda cooks the egg.
+
+[1:44] Is there any truth to that? Secondly, how does it foam up so much? I'd expect that from egg white, but they use egg yolks, thanks, Ryan. Okay, so for those of you that aren't familiar uh with Vietnamese egg sodas, which I assume is 99.9% of you. I was not familiar with it before uh this morning when I saw this question.
+
+[2:00] Uh what what happens is is you put uh some sweet and condensed milk in the bottom of a glass, you uh crack an egg yolk into it, and you stir it around to combine the sweet and condensed milk in the egg yolk, and then you top it with uh soda water and then you stir. Uh and it does indeed foam up uh and it gets white at the bottom and uh apparently it's delicious. I didn't have sweet and condensed milk, so I didn't taste it. I actually did crack an egg yolk into soda water this morning. Take a look at it.
+
+[2:24] Uh I'm gonna go ahead and make this statement. Uh the egg yolk is not in any way, shape, or form getting cooked in this procedure. Like, do not think in any way that you are killing the bacteria in the egg yolk by adding it to seltzer. That's just uh not not the case. That's just not the case.
+
+[2:43] Uh so I didn't see any scientific backup for uh the egg yolk being uh cooked. Uh again, do not assume it is cooked. If you're gonna serve it to someone who is uh has an immune problem or is uh pregnant or didn't you have to use pasteurized egg to use this technique? Um now uh that said, um, you know, there's not that much contamination in egg yolks these days, so it it's probably not gonna be uh a problem. I think it's one in I don't know, one in two thousand or one in eight thousand or something like that.
+
+[3:13] Uh eggs is contaminated with salmonella. So the the odds aren't very high, uh, and you're not necessarily gonna get salmonella even if you do um even if you if it does have salmonella in it. Uh that's it, it the egg yolk also is gonna cause a lot of foaming, similar to the way an egg white does, because it contains uh a lot of emulsifiers. So egg whites foam because of the protein, which helps stabilize air bubbles, and egg yolks, they also have protein, which might help stabilize a bubbles uh air bubbles, but they have a lot of emulsifiers in them. And emulsifiers, um, you know, as you may know, are things that make it easier for oil and water to kind of live together next to each other.
+
+[3:44] They lower the energy uh required uh to keep oil and water next to each other. Now, uh they also lower the energy to keep air and water uh next to each other. And so not only do they stabilize oil and water emulsions, they also stabilize air in water emulsion. So they're the protein plus the emulsifiers, uh like lessithin phospholipids, things like this in the egg yolk are going to help produce uh a nice foam. And if you you know you know from cooking that you beat egg yolks, you can make them really thick and creamy.
+
+[4:14] They hold uh they hold uh foam fairly well, not as well as an egg white, but still uh there's a lot of uh foaming potential there, especially in something gassy like uh like CO2. That said, also, uh I have to say, uh Ryan, that you caused my computer to crash in a huge way this morning because the first uh Vietnamese egg soda recipe I looked up happened to be on a porn site. And then when I tried to get off of the porn site uh to look up other things about Vietnamese egg soda, it it kept on like you know, like a million windows would come up and say, Stop! Do you do you like Asian women? Do you like Asian women?
+
+[4:48] Don't navigate away from our site if you like Asian women. So uh thank you, Ryan, for crashing my computer. Uh okay. Second question comes from Chris Anderson in New York City. Uh I was wondering if there are any differences in the way you would sous eat a highly marbolized piece of beef like USDA Prime or Wagyu as opposed to choice or select.
+
+[5:06] I read somewhere uh that the fat and wagyu renders at a lower temp than standard beef, but I'm not sure if this is true. Also, some people suggest searing meat both pre and post-Souvete, and we are some of those people, actually. Uh is there any advantage to this technique? Yes, uh, over just searing it once right before serving. Okay, these are excellent questions.
+
+[5:22] I have not done a lot of cooking with uh with with Wagyu. Um uh my assumption is is that even if the fat does render it a lower temperature, which would indicate uh a less saturated fat, um, like for instance, you know, like take for instance pork. Pork the pork fat's a lot less saturated than uh beef fat, and even pork fat doesn't really render out that much when you're cooking sous vide, especially at the temperatures you're gonna be using to cook uh a piece of wagyu, which are gonna be in the range of 54 to no higher, even for skirt or something like that, 57 degrees um unless you're doing a short rib or something uh Celsius. So in that range, you're really not gonna get a lot of fat melt out in in your uh in your meat, even if it's you know, fairly um even if it's fairly unsaturated, uh from a beef standpoint, that is. So now um as to whether or not the texture is gonna be different, I don't know.
+
+[6:12] I just don't have enough experience, but my guess is is that it's gonna handle pretty much in the same way. Uh it's just gonna have more marbling in in the center. A lot of people try to use uh the a question I get asked a lot for Sous V. And by the way, for those of you who don't know what the hell I'm talking about, Sous vide is any kind of cooking that goes on in a vacuum bag and it allows you to uh you know cook at a very accurate temperature in conjunction with low temperature cooking, which is really what I like to talk about most of the time instead of just sous vide, where we very accurately control the temperature, so there's no possibility of overcooking your meat. And uh because of that, you tend uh meats that don't have a lot of internal marbling, things like uh, you know, lower lower grade cuts of meat, they don't dry out just because you never overcooked them, right?
+
+[6:51] So a higher grade cut of meat with a lot of internal marbling is gonna taste juicy and delicious because it's got all that dang fat in it, right? Which is great, you know what I mean? But a lower one tends to dry out faster because it doesn't have that protection of all that fat. And while it is true that uh that lower grades can be cooked to good effect using sous vide, I've never been the kind of person who says, Well, I can take a crappy cut of meat now and pretend that it's a good cut of meat and serve it to someone, right, Nastasha? We're right.
+
+[7:14] We're against that, yeah. Yes. Anyway. But that said, it's a uh great technique for that. As as for your uh second question about searing both before and after, uh, yes, you should sear both before and after.
+
+[7:24] If you just search uh and we if you come, by the way, the best way to, you know, not to toot our own horn to toot, but it the best way to learn how to to do this if you don't have time in your restaurant, which almost no one does, uh, even if you've been doing uh sous vide and low temp for a while, we teach a course called Sous Vide and Low Temperature Cooking at the school. And what we do, for instance, is give you a bunch of side by side taste tests of um of uh what it tastes like if you just sear it before, or if you sear it just after, or if you sear it before and after, or if you don't sear it. And really the best way to do it is and you can just taste it if you can do it side by side. And really, one of the main values of the class that we teach is that we do all these comparisons for you that you would never have time to to do in your restaurant or uh or at home. Uh that said, um, you know, if you just sear after, can you get a good result?
+
+[8:12] Yes. But something on the order of 75 to 80% of the any given person in the in a room of, and we've done this, you know, many, many, many, many dozens of times. 75 to 80% of the people given a side by side test will prefer the one that's seared both before and after. And here, and it's also safer. Here are the reasons.
+
+[8:31] You sear it beforehand, you kill the bacteria on the outside of the meat, which is where most of the bacteria are anyway, unless you stab the meat by accident or something like that, right? So there's a safety issue. Secondly, you're gonna start coloring the meat and you're gonna start building uh the myard flavors in it, which means that it's gonna taste meatier in the bag. And it's also uh the second time when you sear it, uh it's gonna build a crust a lot, lot, lot faster, which means you're gonna get a darker crust, a better crust, a more flavorful crust on your second sear if you prime that sear at the beginning by searing it before you put it in the bag. You know, the one caveat you have to chill the meat after you sear it before you put it in the bag.
+
+[9:05] But you always have to sear afterwards because coming right out of the bag, there is no crust. It's kind of like, you know, kind of, I don't know, weak looking, right? Weak? Yes. Weak, weak, weak.
+
+[9:15] The meat is weak. You are weak. Anyway, so you have to sear uh before and after. Thanks for your question, Chris. Michael Nakin writes in, he says, So I just tried the cream whipper infusion with cocoa noes.
+
+[9:27] And by the way, we have a new technique using the ISI uh uh whipped cream makers, and you can read about it on cookingissues.com. Uh and uh it basically what we're doing is we're using nitrous oxide, which is laughing gas, the stuff that you know in high school people they buy whipped cream and they just spray the gas into their mouth to get high instead of the whipped cream, which is the part I like anyway, because I don't I hate being high on nitrous, it's terrible, it's awful, and it makes you feel really stupid, right? I mean I don't know. Oh, yeah, okay. Well I seriously always see it.
+
+[9:54] All right, sure. Okay. So uh so anyway, so you put uh you put your food, a porous thing, along with a liquid, we usually use liquor, into a container, you hit it with nitrous oxide, the nitrous oxide under pressure, uh becomes dissolves into the liquid and also forces the liquid into the pores of whatever uh you're doing cocoa nibs, staranis, uh whatever. And then you let it uh pressurize in and sit for a minute, two minutes, three minutes, it depends on the product, and then you vent the thing really quickly. When you vent the container, the the gas all of a sudden the pressure is lowered and it starts bubbling, gushing out, almost like if you shook a can of seltzer and opened it and sprayed it on your buddy, right?
+
+[10:30] And uh that gushing out and that foaming basically sucks the flavor back out of your product very quickly, and you can make very quick infusion. So that's you know, in a nutshell, that's ISI um that's ISI infusion, you know, nitrous infusion. A lot of people, let me just get into this, because a lot of people, you know, there's a lot of back and forth on the blog, and a lot of people compare it with a technique in the laboratory called uh nitrogen cavitation. In nitrogen cavitation, you're basically giving someone the bends on purpose. You're putting very high uh pressure nitrogen into something and then immediately releasing the pressure, which causes small nitrogen bubbles to form and uh rupture things apart, nitrogen cavitation.
+
+[11:03] Uh this is not r this technique, I don't really think it's the exact same as nitrogen cavitation. In a laboratory, you want to use something that's fairly unreactive, like nitrogen, and f and has fairly low solubility so that when you're done with the procedure, most of it's gone, right? Uh so this technique works at a much lower pressure than nitrogen cavitation uh because it's using a relatively soluble gas, something that wants to be soluble in a lit in the liquid, nitrous, right? Which is why I think, I think, I don't know, uh a lot of people say that these infusions taste better after they've been sitting five, ten, fifteen minutes. And I think it's because the nitr the nitrous keeps all off-gassing out out of the product.
+
+[11:40] Now I think that's what's going on, but I can't, but I can't prove it. So um so Michael says his cocoa nib uh tasted like uh a donkey's behind and uh his cocoa nib infusion that he's done. And he said the nibs were raw, he got them at a health food store, presumably aimed at raw foodists. Is that where I went wrong? Short answer, yes.
+
+[11:59] Uh should I be using toasted nibs? Short answer, yes. And have you tried it with chopped-up bar chocolate instead of nibs? No. Uh so let me go into this uh the longer form of this answer piece by piece.
+
+[12:09] Uh one, the quality of the nibs makes a huge difference in the quality of the infusion you're gonna get. Huge. Huge, right? Yes, huge. Yeah.
+
+[12:19] So uh we've tried it with a bunch of nibs, even expensive nibs, and um if you taste the nibs and they taste acrid, or if they taste kind of sour, or if they have any sort of off flavor at all, that's gonna end up in your infusion and your infusion is gonna taste like a donkeys behind. Now, uh, and we've done this with expense, even expensive companies that'll sell you their second grade nibs, uh, they tend to taste they taste bad, right? Also, um, and I have nothing I love uh I I myself have friends who are raw foodists, so I'm not saying anything against the raw foodists, but I have not yet had a raw chocolate bar that I thought tasted like chocolate, right? I mean, anyone here we're oh by the way, we've just got joined in the studio by by Nick Nick Wong. He doesn't want to talk, but he's here, so the presence of Nick is in the room.
+
+[13:04] And I was have you ever tasted a raw chocolate bar that you enjoyed? What? No. No. Right?
+
+[13:09] No. Nastasha, have you ever tasted a raw chocolate bar that you've liked? No. Now listen, here's a challenge. A challenge to anyone out there, right?
+
+[13:18] I want I want to eat a raw chocolate bar that I think is the best chocolate bar I've ever had. I'm gonna issue you a challenge. If someone can send me, if someone can send me a raw chocolate bar that I think it and I'm not a liar, by the way. If I think it's delicious, I'll say it's delicious. Everyone here agree about that?
+
+[13:35] Like I'm not a liar about that, right? No, not about that. Yeah. So if someone sends me a chocolate bar that's raw that I think is truly delicious, I will only eat raw food for a week and I will say how much I love it on the blog and on it. Only raw food for a week.
+
+[13:48] If someone sends me a chocolate bar that's raw, and I'll learn how to cook it, and I'll I'm gonna do I'll do all that stuff. If someone can truly send me something that is a chocolate bar that's raw, and by the way, I think a lot of raw food people get snowed by the idea of raw chocolate because there's a fermentation procedure, the temperatures get quite high. I don't know, it has to be uh, you know, there's bacteria in cocoa nibs, it has to be pasteurized. I don't know how you would actually pasteurize uh cocoa nibs and actually actually actually keep them raw. What they might mean is pasteurized but unroasted.
+
+[14:14] I don't know. I don't really understand in even in theory how that that would happen. Uh but uh so there's the challenge for the raw the raw chocolate bar. So um I hope that happens. Yeah, I hope so too.
+
+[14:30] Uh, because that would be it would be a good learning experience for me. Now the uh the chopped up chocolate bar, I don't think is gonna work very well because it's just not very porous. There's not a lot of uh air in the chocolate to get a good infusion across it. If you uh I mean if you're gonna use bar chocolate, I would use something more similar to fat washing where you would melt the chocolate into the uh into the um what are the word I'm looking for? Like liquor, and then uh and then put it in the freezer and then separate the chocolate out of the top, but you're gonna get some of the bitterness out that you're not gonna get in the very fl fast infusion that we do uh with with our technique.
+
+[15:00] Uh if you want to try uh with cocoa nibs, I rec we recommend, and you know, they're not paying us for anything, but it's we've had the best results with uh the Valrona uh cocoa nibs uh among cocoa nibs. And the reason we use nibs, like I say, as opposed to bar chocolate is just nibs are very porous, uh, you know, a lot of air holes in them, so we can get very good uh, you know, in and out in and out. We can put the liquor in, get the liquor out. So I hope that helps with your uh with your cocoa nib infusion problem. We're gonna go to our first commercial break.
+
+[15:27] Call in all your questions. 2718-497-2128, 718-497-2128. Cooking issues. You feel good. So much bone brother.
+
+[15:39] How you feel, mate? I'll feel all right. I don't want to know you're in, yeah. How you feel, fella? Sure getting down.
+
+[15:49] Look at him. We're gonna have a bunk good time. We're gonna have a bunk good time. Fred, get it, take us higher. Take us higher.
+
+[16:50] Fred. Welcome back to Cooking Issues Radio. Um Dave Arnold here at Cooking Issues. Call in all of your cooking related questions, technical or not, to 718-497-2128-718-497-2128 coming to you live from a uh little box outside of uh Roberta's Pizzeria in uh in Bushwick, in Bushwick, Brooklyn. Actually, um the good people from uh Roberta's did an event with us uh what was it this last weekend, right?
+
+[18:18] What was that thing called? That was called like Taste Like Teen Spirit, was it? Alchemy of Taste and Smell. Alchemy of Taste and Smell? Yeah, that was the name of it.
+
+[18:27] Something like that. Oh Jesus, we can't remember the name of it. All right. Well, Daniel Patterson, who's actually you know, one of my favorite chefs from the San Francisco Bay area. And if you ever get out to his restaurant, Qua in uh in San Francisco, you should definitely go.
+
+[18:38] It's one of my favorite restaurants. He's kind of hilarious because when you meet him, he seems like a laid-back Californian, but he's really like not at all laid back, right? I mean, he's like apparently laid back, but not. Yeah. Is that true?
+
+[18:50] Yeah, no, it's true. That's true. So he wrote a cookbook whose name I can't remember because I'm an idiot and I didn't look it up before I came on the air. And uh he um it it was basically with a uh a perfumer, a natural perfumer named Mandy Aftel, and it was about using uh essential oils and uh and different you know essences in in cooking. And so uh Mandy and Daniel teamed up to come over to uh New York and have this event about basically taste and smell, whose name we apparently can't remember, even though we worked it for two days last weekend.
+
+[19:21] Yeah. Uh and so uh there was uh it was a you know a bunch of interesting uh folks involved. Harold McGee came in, uh Dave Chang was there, uh Wiley Dufresne, you know, uh my my my brother in law, my bro, Wiley. Uh who else do who else do we have there? Nastasha, you remember?
+
+[19:29] Uh Alexander. Alex Talbot from uh Alex Talbot. I already said Robert's colour was there. Carla was there. Anyway, so uh we had uh what what who else was there?
+
+[19:45] Alex Talbot from uh Ideas and Food, George Mendez, George Mendez from Aldea, like a bunch, a bunch of friends. Who else is? I know I'm missing someone who's like gonna be like all pissed because I've anyway, like a listener. A bunch of really Yeah, right. No, because the one person who listens is gonna go tell them about it.
+
+[20:00] Anyway, so a bunch of very good good people. So uh I don't know how how you got on this. Yeah, the alchemy of taste and smell is right. Yeah, so it was a fun event. We did a rotary evaporator presentation with Audrey Saunders, who did basically all the cocktails for the event, some really actually very good cocktails, Audrey Saunders from uh from Pegu Club.
+
+[20:16] Uh and I don't know why the hell I started talking about that. Maybe because she's really interesting. She's like she's a so she is she kind of nutty in a good way, right, Nastasha? What do you say? Not in a good way.
+
+[20:29] And she uh she gave us some like super high grade uh hove frankincense, some like from Oman, some sort of crazy good frankincense from Oman, and it had us distill it into cognac. It was pretty good. What do you think? You know, I mean It was strong. Uh strong.
+
+[20:44] Anyway, so that was a that was a fun event. That's what we were doing this weekend, and I had a reason to talk about it, but I can't remember what it is, so I'll go on to something else. Oh, we have a caller? Yes. Caller, you are on the air.
+
+[20:54] Hi there, Dave. Uh my name is Colin, down from Washington, DC. Sorry, uh the signal's probably kind of bad from what it sounds like. I'm okay, I can I can hear you. Yeah.
+
+[21:06] So we've got two things. Uh one is I have been working with Judge Wan Papers. Right. Uh and looking to sort of draw out that tingling, kind of numbing parasita thing you get from them. More for the aspect than the overall flavor of them.
+
+[21:28] Okay. Uh so I was looking at ways to kind of concentrate that and kind of make it the one of the big issues is that it seems to take a couple minutes to really warm up and kick in when you just incorporate the maybe ground peppercorns in something. But I was looking to see if there are ways to kind of speed that up a bit so that it you know isn't so it's been done with the thing that I was having to eat by the time he finally hit this numbing kind of tingling thing. All right. Let me okay, stay on the air because I might have to ask you a question.
+
+[22:05] But uh first of all, very interesting. As the first person who's ever had a like a crazy cell connection where it sounds like he's on an auto-tuner, right? It's like T Pain calling in to the studio. It's like uh you know, I love auto-tuning. Everyone now, of course, loves auto-tuning, but anyway, so like a kudos to the auto-tuning cell phone reception, because that's awesome.
+
+[22:22] Uh second of all, so in case you couldn't understand, because I my connection is probably better than yours over the radio for listeners. Uh the the question was he's using Sichuan peppercorns. He's not so interested, I mean he's interested, but not for this application, in the flavor of the Szechuan peppercorn, more in the effect, the mouth, the numbing tingling effect of the Sichuan peppercorn. And so, and the question is how can you concentrate or uh or you know, get get these kind of flavors concentrated. Okay.
+
+[22:45] Uh it's very interesting. Someone just asked me last week or so whether I can distill the the the tingling effect of Sichuan peppercorn and uh as as one way to concentrate it, for instance. And the answer is I don't know because I don't know what chemical it is, so I don't know how volatile it is, whether it can be distilled. But I'm pretty sure that you can make a tincture of Sichuan peppercorn in high-proof alcohol and get and get that get that out. The other alternative you have, I mean, but besides tinctures and possibly distillation, depending on the weight.
+
+[23:11] So for instance, capsation, the heat from red pepper, doesn't distill because it's too heavy, but uh the pungency of horseradish does distill. My feeling, if I had to guess, is that Sichuan peppercorn, the tingling sensation would not distill because you can't smell it the same way you can smell the the I mean you can smell the Sichuan peppercorn, but not that kind of pungency the same way you could with like a horseradish, for instance, or a wasabi, both of which distill. Uh so my feeling is that you probably won't be able to distill it. You have to use a um you'll have to use uh uh an infusion or you could try the ISI infusion, actually, frankly, right? Where you just put the Sichuan peppercorn in an ISI container and um and then you know hi uh hit it with liquor, high-proof liquor, and hit it with two chargers, uh swirl it, let it stand, swirl it for like a minute, let it sit for another minute, vent it out, let it stand for five minutes, strain and see whether you get a good result.
+
+[24:01] I'd actually probably work, don't you think, Nastasha? That I think that would work. Yeah, we were gonna try that last week with Cliff, remember? Oh, is that Cliff? Anyway.
+
+[24:08] So uh, but here's some other alternatives if that doesn't work. Of course, uh you know, you're probably familiar with the product called uh Sichuan Buttons, which is a little flour, but it's I don't really like I mean uh I have friends who make them and sell them, so I don't want to say anything too negative about them, but I I have a problem with them because they're so strong that it tastes and they're not as subtle as Sichuan peppercorn in that Sichuan peppercorn gives you like a little bit of that funkiness and like a mouth cooling thing. This tastes like you just stuck your tongue on a car battery to me. Like it's too, it's too aggressive. And so uh I you know I can't really uh I can't I can't imagine using it just because it's so so aggressive and the effects are so long lasting that you know like I'd have a problem serving it.
+
+[24:49] Um that's me though. A lot of people love them. Uh another thing that you might want to look into is on the Japanese side, instead of going for a Chinese Sichuan peppercorn, go for like a Sancho pepper, which you know, these little green ones. And apparently the the the best ones have like two, in other words, like the it like they're looking like little green balls, and then but some of them have like two green balls, which look I hate to say this on air but like testicles kind of. They say it looks like a bell, but really they mean testicle.
+
+[25:14] Anyway, and those are the ones that are most prized. Guess why? Anyway, so they uh so those uh peppers, uh this little Sancho things, I think it's Sancho, right? Sancho. Yeah, anyway.
+
+[25:23] The those are kind of intermediate between uh the Sichuan uh peppercorn, which are drier and maybe have some of their pungency gone away, and um and and the um and the the Sichuan buttons, which I think are just kind of like hitting you over the head with a baseball bat. So you might want to try that. Is any of this helpful? You still there? No, he's gone.
+
+[25:42] Anyway, so uh thank you, Colin Colin. Uh Colin, the auto-tuning call in. Uh, and uh I hope that answers uh some of your some of your questions. So uh meanwhile, let's get back to uh some more of our other questions, which Nastasha thought it would be fun to start looking up directions to someplace while we're in the middle of the radio show so that I can't see my questions anymore. Uh uh just you know, I like to I like to nudge her a little bit while uh while we're here.
+
+[26:08] So uh Nick Wong, who is formerly uh an intern with us at the school, one of our favorites, good man, and now working at Sambar. Uh Sambar, you know, our friend Dave Chang's uh one of his restaurants, they're working on uh elderberry vinegar. So he brought in some for us to taste. It's true or false. True.
+
+[26:25] You have to get closer to the microphone when you say true. Yeah, true. Anyway, so he brought it to us in a Sazerac rye bottle, which of course we like the Sazerac rod. And my impression is initially they were going to try and make elderberry wine, but they didn't like the taste of it so much, so they're gonna make it uh in in vinegar. And I like anyone that's trying to make a vinegar, so we're gonna we're gonna give it a taste test here on air.
+
+[26:43] Hold on a sec, hold on a sec. It's good. It's good, right? Nastasha, what do you well you don't like drinking vinegar, Nastasha? I think this would make a good soda if it was sweetened.
+
+[26:53] The acidity level of it is not quite up to a normal high proof uh vinegar yet. But I think if you were to um add a little bit of sugar to this and then carbonate it, it'd be a great soda. And we've actually done vinegar sodas uh before. One of my favorite things that we I've ever worked on was we did a uh a vinegar soda that we poured over uh fig ice cream. That was that was some delicious business, right?
+
+[27:16] That was some good stuff. Anyway, so like uh this this uh maybe uh we could use for something like that. Anyway, so uh I have a question here. Uh maybe I'll hand it that one after the after the commercial break. Uh Matthew Hex writes in and says, It's Matt from uh Uptown who took uh the cla our Sous Vintensive class.
+
+[27:34] Howdy, Matt. Uh, and he got a great deal on a poly science model 71 immersion circulator on eBay. Uh and it works great, but he has a few questions. Now I'm uh I didn't have time to look up which one was the model 71, but I think I have an idea from what you uh are you know asked me the questions on which one it is, so we'll we'll deal with it. And for those of you uh out there who don't know what immersion circulator is, there's not probably not that many ones of our list people who listen to us who don't know what emergent circular is, but I hope there is.
+
+[27:59] And and here's what it is it's a piece of equipment that very, very accurately controls water or liquid temperatures, and it's kind of the piece of equipment that you need to do low temperature cooking. And low temperature cooking is the kind of the revolutionary new cooking technique where you know instead of cooking a steak to you know in a 400-degree oven, even though you only want to cook it to 130 degrees, you just cook it to 130 degrees and then sear it uh before and after. Okay? So that's what we're talking about. And you know, they used to be like $2,000.
+
+[28:25] Uh they then went down to about a thousand, and now you can buy them in Williams Sonoma for about $800. So uh I believe the Model 71 is an old school analog one that doesn't have a digital readout. And I've talked to Philip Preston, the manufacturer uh of the polycynife circulators, um, for a um you know, for a long time about these older ones, and they work great, right? Um the problem is is that you need to uh calibrate them because there's no digital readout that uh you know tells you what temperature it's at. You have to put a thermocouple into your bath and then just turn the dial uh and then you just wait to see where it stabilizes, and you're gonna see the light, the heating light, flash off and on, and it's gonna get stable and it will stay stable.
+
+[29:05] It's not gonna go all over the place. They are nice and stable, but you do need an external digital thermometer to uh determine exactly what temperature you're at, and that's really the disadvantage of an analog, um, an analog uh circulator. The other question was there's a thermostat on the back, and uh and uh Matthew wants to know what it's for. Uh now uh what that is is that's usually the over temp thermostat. So if like a knucklehead cook in your in your place pulls the uh circulator out of water and then runs it out of water, there's a there's a little safety override such that it doesn't melt the whole machine down and catch your building on fire.
+
+[29:38] And that little safety thermostat in the back determines at what temperature it decides to click and turn off. I would just turn it up to 200, which is two or like 150, anything well above the boiling point of water, just so it's not clicking off on you all the time, because if it does click off, you have to press a little reset button to get it to work again. So uh that said, as long as that thing keeps working, it should keep working forever. Those older units, well, not forever, but should keep working well and accurately. Those older units have a different style of bearing on them, so you might start hearing bearing squeal after uh you know after um you know a couple months or a year, in which case, you know, you can WD 50 it uh 50, WD 40 it for uh yeah, slip the tongue.
+
+[30:18] Uh you can WD 40 it for a little while, but eventually then your motor's gonna go, at which point I don't know whether it would make sense to replace it, but you know, if you get a good deal, uh they they work great. And by the way, a note on the on the new circulators that are coming out. If you have one of the new circulators uh from Philip with uh poly science, the ones that they have in William Sonoma, which I you know I like. That's what I use at home now, is the new one. Uh well if you're if you're working in New York City, the first thing you should do is pop the little plate off the front that says Sous vide professional and just sand the word sous vide off of it so that if you have it in your kitchen in New York City and the health inspector walks in, they're not like you're doing sous vide without a hasuk plan.
+
+[30:51] So that's that's exactly that's the first, even though I have it at home. The first thing I did was pop the plate off and sand the word sous vide off of it. But the second thing is you should be very careful um that none of your cooks uh go uh into the calibration mode in it uh and um and change the temperature. So if you you know you just press a button and you and you can like change it between Fahrenheit and Celsius, which is also awesome. I love that.
+
+[31:15] But if you press that button again, you're changing the offset, which is basically a calibration feature. But if you're not careful, right, you can basically throw it out of calibration by like three degrees. So it's something you should be aware of is to is to make sure your cooks aren't changing the calibration without knowing it. I had a cook do that, and uh, you know, all the eggs were off by three degrees. So instead of being a perfect poached egg, we had raw eggs.
+
+[31:39] You know what I mean? Because the difference between a sixty-two degree Celsius egg, which is perfect for eggs benedict, and a 59 degree egg, which is almost raw, is like, you know, huge, huge. Anyway, so uh be careful your cooks aren't changing the offset. I think in in future versions, uh Philip's gonna make it so that uh it's a lot uh harder to change the offset. But that said, we love the new circulator.
+
+[32:01] So we're gonna go to our second commercial break. Call in all your questions to 718-497-2128, 718-497-2128 cooking issues. Need to grit bit no bread. You know, I believe Brad Thomas, Brother. I'm getting ready to wave y'all in, you know what?
+
+[32:47] I feel so down. I need to get down in order for me to get down, I got to get in D. Otto for me to get down, I gotta get in D. Need to get in D. Dog the D.
+
+[33:04] Down D. Funk to D. Down D. Ow! Get on down.
+
+[33:26] Morgan Lamp, you like me? I think I can think about making the big ill. Is you over there? We better fang one bus. Alright.
+
+[33:41] Gotta hell a pump. Oh yeah. Welcome back to Cooking Issues, a show where we answer all of your cooking issues, or at least we try to. Call in your uh questions too. 718 497 2128.
+
+[33:54] 718, still got vinegar in my mouth. 718 497 2128 coming to you live for the next 15 minutes or so. Okay, so we have a question from Max. Uh, and uh part of it I'm just gonna read straight just because uh I can't I can't possibly paraphrase. But uh he recently found a manufacturer of Xanthan gum where he can purchase like a food-grade Xanthan gum.
+
+[34:16] He calls it blow, which is hilarious. Although if you were like uh he's here, I'll read it exactly. He says, uh, I recently found a manufacturer of Xanthan gum uh near me to purchase food and pharmacy grade blow. Now, assuming you're referring to the Xanthan gum as blow and not as cocaine, don't ever snort Xanthan gum. That stuff's gonna seriously slime up in your nasal passages, and you're gonna be in for a world of hurt.
+
+[34:38] Am I right about this? World of hurt. I mean, I have look, I'm not gonna say I haven't as a joke packed hydrocolloids in my nose before, but I would not do that with Xanthan. I definitely would not do it. Anyway, so we ordered a couple of kilos, which is basically a lifetime supply.
+
+[34:52] Uh, because he ordered it directly from the fermenter. That's pretty cool. If you have it, send me the send me the link. I'd love to be able to buy a couple kilos of Xanthan gum at a good price. I think every chef would.
+
+[35:01] What do you think, Nick? Yes. Yes, goes for yes. Uh, and he's using it uh for baking and subbing it out for agar as a thickener and some sauces. Now, uh, before I go any further, uh, Xanthan, I don't really think is a good straight substitute for agar.
+
+[35:14] So if you're using agar as the thickener, what you're most likely doing is setting your sauce into a gel with agar and then blending it into a fluid gel. And uh the problem with using Xanthan to get that thick a texture is that it's gonna get really snotty on you. Like I much prefer to use Xanthan as either as a stabilizer, like you said in a in a baked good or something like that, or just to get that last little bit of body out, right? So the sauce is almost where it wants to be, but it just needs a little more body, and that's when I basically I pull out the xanthan. So I'm usually using it in like the one quarter of a percent up to the maybe like like third of a percent, four tenths of a percent range, in that range.
+
+[35:54] I think once you get uh much higher than that, you really kind of notice the snottiness of a sauce, like unless it's gonna stand still and no one's gonna ever see it jiggle. Um I tend to watch out. So, like a lot of times I'll use Xanthan in conjunction with another product just to help stabilize a little bit. Uh but I very rarely use it as the only thickener in a system, unless, like, you know, you say it's just to stabilize air bubbles for like a baking presentation or something like that. Okay, so uh Max's issue came when he tried to thicken smoked oil.
+
+[36:24] He used two grams per 100 gram of oil and sheared. Um this this is a lot live quote, by the way, so this is not me saying it. He called I'm gonna use this for now. And he calls an immersion blender, the stick blender. He calls it, I think I can say this on air, he calls it a dildo stick, which I think I'm gonna start using from now on.
+
+[36:39] At which point the color became a cool fluorescent red due to the extra air and powder, but after he let it sit, it just settled to the bottom of the container. Then he tried it a bunch of different ways. And and he says, Can uh can he thicken the oil on its own with the cantact cantankerous xanthan gum? Or is it uh purely a case of sugars like water not mixing with oil? Yes, it's purely a case of the uh it's a complex sugar, it's a it's a um you know, long long-chain polysaccharide xanthan gum, but yes, xanthan gum will not interact with uh oil.
+
+[37:09] You can't thicken oil with uh xanthan gum. Uh so here are your options for thickening oil. A lot of people when they thick uh thicken oil, they use uh an emulsifier called mono and diglycerides. Mono and diglycerides is sold unfortunately by some people as glycerin, even though it's not glycerin, it's mono and diglycerides. It's the stuff that's sold as glice by the Ferran Texturas line, it comes in little flakes, and you heat it into the oil, and and if you add enough of it, you can thicken it.
+
+[37:40] Uh and the the problem is is that uh it's a you know it it's the it really melts out when you get it hot, so it's really only useful to thicken like cold preps. But the the problem is also I think that in when you if to get a really really thick, like spreadable oil, you need to like get it up in the range of like 10% mono diglycerides, at which point I think you can taste the mono and di glycerides, and I think it's nasty. Like maybe if you had a higher quality monodiglycerides than I have, it would work, but I I think it's nasty. Another thing you can do is use a little bit of mono diglycerides and then emulsify in some water, and that's going to thicken it just by having like the all the watery crud in it, right? That'll thicken it.
+
+[38:17] And of course, the best way to thicken oil is to do it the opposite way and make mayonnaise. Mayonnaise with smoked oil would be delicious, delicious. Everyone here agree that mayonnaise with smoked oil is a delicious product. Yes. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[38:30] Nastasha doesn't seem convinced, but or maybe she's just not listening. Anyway, but uh the uh anyway, so oh, we have a caller? Caller, you are on the air. Hey there. Hey, it's calling again, actually.
+
+[38:40] I just found a landline and I had a second question. Although I like the auto-tuner effect, that was nice. Yeah, it was definitely slick, but I'm glad uh hear your beautiful voice on the other side. Yeah, yeah. But uh yeah, so this one pertains to things with a string like very astringent flavors.
+
+[38:57] Uh so in particular, I made a walnut liquor, and there's some I don't know. It's still pretty young, but it has some very pungent kind of uh astringentness at the end. The thing that makes your tongue just sort of feel like there's fuzz growing all over it. Right. And so I heard recently from some friends who are sort of like wild forager types, that persimmons, uh American persimmons, are also the skins of them are extremely astringent until the first frost or two, and that seems to kill it and then makes them a little sweeter.
+
+[39:31] So I was wondering if it uh you know much about you know, like uh proaking down astringent flavors and if I could maybe just put this stuff in the freezer and expect that they would drop out or break down or something. This is an extremely interesting question. Uh and um here's the here's the thing. So the uh I've always wanted to try our native persimmons, I never have. I've read about them for years.
+
+[39:55] I haven't had them. But fruits that are astringent, right? So quince, uh persimmons, if you freeze them and then thaw them out, you can lose some of the astringency, presumably because uh during the freezing, which is a dehydration process, the uh the the the kind of astringent whatever it is, tannic astringent stuff basically bonds together with other stuff and loses its astringent properties. That's gotta be what it is. Because also, if you take a persimmon and dry it, as we all know, it loses its astringency, right?
+
+[40:22] And apples that are like overly tannic apples that are very astringent back in the day, because you know, when you sew what uh apple seeds, like a lot of them come up tannic and astringent because they they're just you know, apples don't come true to seed. So a lot of these seedling for uh apple orchards, which were used for cider production, especially in like Pennsylvania Dutch company, they dry out a lot of it and they'd make schnitz, which is the dried apple slices, right? Yeah, yeah, yeah. And and and those lose their astringency because they're dried, and so now all of a sudden you can make a pie or something out of the dried apples or make or make you know schnitz and gnepp, whatever you call the ham and schnitz thing, because um the astringency has been modified by the dehydration process. And and you should always think of freezing as a as a dehydration process.
+
+[41:05] Now, in the liquor, I don't know that it's gonna work. The astringency, I assume, from the walnut is coming from the skins of the walnut. I'm assuming. Now, uh you could try freezing it, and if you get a good result, I would love to know that whether or not that does anything. Uh it's going to be hard to freeze unless it's a very low-proof liquor, it's going to be hard to freeze anyway.
+
+[41:24] But you you if you if it if it works, that would be amazing to know. But there's another alternative, which is there are, and I don't know the variety, but Harold McGee wants, you know, you go to Harold McGee's house and he just has a bowl of walnuts on the table. So you're like, hey, when a stash remember this, you're like, hey, these are just walnuts, right? So you start eating, you're like, God damn, this is amazing walnuts. What the hell?
+
+[41:43] And apparently there's like in California a couple strains of walnut that are extremely the skins are extremely low in uh in tannins. And I think they're the they were the red ones, right, Nastash, were they the red ones? Yeah, they're amazing. So you you you might be able to try one of these super fancy walnuts, or if you another thing you can do is maybe crack the walnuts and try to do the liquor with ISI, and maybe you could get, or like, you know, like smash the walnuts to do ISI and maybe you could get enough of the walnut flavor out without getting a lot of the tannin. Although I did it with pecans and I got a quite a bit of tannin in my pecan uh infusion, even in an ISI, which usually doesn't extract uh bitters and tannins that that quickly.
+
+[42:22] Um but you could give that a shot. Uh also, you know, it's it's a real pain to skin uh a walnut, but you could try heating it and rubbing it to at least get a portion of the skin off of it, uh you know, to try and see whether that can um whether that that helps. I don't know um I don't know whether or not we can modify the one that already if you have liquid nitrogen, you could try freezing it. That'll dehydrate it and then let it thaw slowly, and maybe you can get some of the astringency out, but I don't know that it's the same chemical process, so I don't know that it would that would work. Is this the actual you know going to a semi-solid that's gonna be well in in fruits, but I don't know whether or not it's this they're the same molecules in like a nut skin, so I don't know if it's gonna have the same sort of fruit.
+
+[43:05] Not uh not no, not simply a matter of temperature. But it's a very interesting question. I think one that has an acid. I'm interested. So if you find some results, if you could uh email in, tell us what happened.
+
+[43:15] Yeah, we'll do. All right, thanks very much. Yeah, have a good one. All righty. And then uh we have another question in uh and I forget who wrote it because uh Chris.
+
+[43:24] Chris writes in and asks whether he can use clarification on canned uh pineapple and uh and bottled uh or you know, cartoned orange juice. And and specifically you want to know about agar clarification, right? Is that true? Mm hmm. Yeah.
+
+[43:36] Uh yes, it'll work. Uh I haven't done um I mean canned pineapple juice uh I think it will work. I think we've done it. I know I've done orange juice. Uh or in fact, the first application I ever did with quick agar clarification was with orange juice because it was 3 a.m.
+
+[43:50] in the morning. I didn't have time to squeeze anything fresh. So I used orange juice. Orange juice, as long as it's not very acidic, can also be clarified directly through enzymatic. If you hit it with uh Pectenex smash uh XXL or Pectanex uh SPL, if you can directly uh clarify without using agar.
+
+[44:09] Um but yes, you can agar clarify. Um I would assume you can do pineapple juice. Pineapple juice, of course, has um proteolytic uh enzymes in it that would make it difficult to clarify using gelatin, but cooked pineapple juice has been cooked, so you can presumably you can clarify it without any sort of problems. I don't see any reason why you could not clarify uh pineapple juice. Um back to uh Max uh with his question with Xanthan gum and uh oil.
+
+[44:37] He also asks, uh, when am I going to finally admit that I am working for that? Here it is. S S S S S V, the Sofer's Stoffer's Secret Society of Sous Vide. He said, we all know that Sous vide, just like the internet and cable TV, are just fads and will be gone in a year the way Cory Feldman's music career was. Uh I I agree.
+
+[44:57] This stuff's not gonna last, right? None of us here, none of us here think that Sue Vide's here to last, right? That's hilarious. You know, uh and presumably, you know, obviously he's you know making fun because it's gonna be here uh forever. But it's one of those funny things uh uh you know, people always say, oh well, you know, all this new kind of technology is it's you know, it's it's gonna be a fad, it's gonna go away, you know.
+
+[45:18] First of all, they label you as molecular gastronomy, and they're like, that was so like five years ago. It's like, well, first of all, we all hate the term molecular gastronomy. And uh secondly, like this kind of cooking is really growing and growing and growing. You might not hear about it maybe as much as you used to uh in the newspapers and magazines because people already know about it, so there's no hooks to write stories on. You know what I mean?
+
+[45:38] Uh but yeah, so thanks for writing in, Max. More of questions like this. We love them. And I'm gonna leave you with this one. Uh I'm trying to write a uh review of the greatest pomological reference ever to have been produced by human beings called The Fruits of New York.
+
+[45:51] It's like eight volumes, it's many, many, many, many thousands of pages. It's all public access. You know, read it soon on the blog as soon as I can, which maybe is never for you know, given my current track record because I've been posting so slowly. But anyway, uh they wrote uh uh one also called The Vegetables in New York, one of which uh is on um peas, right? So I had to read like I don't know, 200 pages on peas, uh, you know, as part of this review process.
+
+[46:15] And here's what I learned. Uh also if you don't know me, you won't know this, but uh I'm fascinated with mummies. I think you know, mummies, right? Would you say that's true? Mummies.
+
+[46:24] Mummies, yeah, mummies. So uh so there's a huge fad uh about anything uh Egypt related around the time of uh for in the in the mid to late 1800s and also around the time of the discovery of Tutankhamun's tomb in the in the early 20s by uh Carter, right? So there's this huge thing about mummies all the time. And they found uh seeds in uh in these in these crypts, right? In the tombs, they would find seeds.
+
+[46:50] And so there were these disreputable producers who uh would say that they had germinated uh seeds from these uh ancient tombs, and then they would sell them. And so there is literally a variety of pea called mummy, right? And by the way, you could actually buy mummy powder because people used to grind up mummies and and as a medicine, like they would just grind up mummies, and it's based on an old it's based on uh uh basically an old mistranslation of some old uh Arabic medical writings. But they would, yeah, they'd grind up, like they there's a huge trade. Like they would just ship like you know, tons of mummies over to Western Europe, grind them up, and you'd buy this dust, this mummy dust, and you would add it to things, and people would think that mummy dust solved all kinds of problems.
+
+[47:29] So there's all these Europeans eating mummy dust. Uh, there was a paint called mummy that was ground up, you grind up mummies, and apparently like it was the best brown paint, and you couldn't get anything that looked quite like mummy. So, like all these artists would have this mummy paint, and you can go to museums and see paintings that were painted with mummies, as well as the mummies themselves, presumably, if you're going to the to the museum. But uh, these guys all this variety of pea is mummy, and they were saying that you know these were the actual Egyptian peas. So these guys uh in New York's uh Geneva extension station up in New York were growing and were basically like, hey, look, these things are exactly like these other peas.
+
+[48:04] So basically it's a huge hoax. Turns out peas can't survive for thousands of years. But uh, you know, an interesting look back uh to early 20th century hoaxes and the mummy pee. This has been Cooking Issues. Uh come back uh visit us next week.
+
+[48:25] Thanks so much for listening to this week's episode of Cooking Issues. We want to remind you that there's a cabot giveaway going on right now. The New England and New York farm families who own Cabot Cooperative are offering our listeners a chance to win some of the world's best cheddar simply by calling in 718-497-2128, or emailing us at info at heritage radio network.com. What a great way to start the holidays. We'll be picking a winner for the program two weeks from today.
+
+[48:51] Cabot Creamery is a proud supporter of what heritage radio is all about. Vicious fish is hot. Oh, you dirty rat me on this car.
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+[0:13] Welcome to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network. I'm Dave Arnold, the host of Cooking Issues. We're here with Nastasha the Lopez Hammer. No, Stasha the Hammer Lopez. Man, that's the first time I've ever messed that up.
+
+[0:23] Coming to you live every Tuesday from noon to 1245. This is the Thanksgiving version of the show. Call in with all of your cooking related questions, technical or not, to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. And now to break with tradition, Nastasha is going to read our sponsor's copy.
+
+[0:44] Go ahead. Because she says I'm a jerk. That's why I'm having her do it. Because she says that I'm when I read it, I'm dismissive and a and a and a jerk. So go.
+
+[0:52] So today's today's show is brought to you by Cabot Cheese. For your favorite party recipes, let the great taste of cabbage cheese make them even more special. Award-winning cabbot cheese. 100% of our profits go to New England and New York farm families on the web at Cabot Cheese.com. Nice.
+
+[1:09] Thank you. Nice. Alright. So while we're waiting for uh we're waiting for our first caller, I will uh start him with some of our email questions. Here's one from who is it who wrote this?
+
+[1:19] I can't tell. Here's one. I was hoping Dave could offer some insight for a novice candy maker. This is Steve from Miami. Uh he's trying to make a uh pumpkin maple caramel from a uh from food52.com.
+
+[1:30] And uh he wants to add bourbon to it. Um, but he's worried that that it's gonna affect the texture of the caramel. Um he needs to know whether the whether enough of the bourbon's gonna evaporate out by the time the care the caramel reaches 240 uh Fahrenheit on the thermometer. Okay. Uh he's also curious, can he smoke the caramel as it's cooling down with uh policycy and smoking gum, etc.
+
+[1:52] etc. etc. Okay. So here's my here here's the the good news on this. The the I read the I read the recipe, and the re the recipe is fairly standard for a caramel except for it cooks it to a s a slightly lower temperature, but it has a lot of pumpkin puree in it.
+
+[2:05] So I'm thinking that the pumpkin puree is maybe the reason why it's cooked to a slightly lower temperature than normal caramel. Normal caramel's will be cooked a little bit over 240 Fahrenheit, somewhere I can't remember I've been a long time since I cooked a caramel, but probably in the more in the range of like 248 Fahrenheit, something like that. But the good news is is that if you cook it to the same temperature you're gonna have the same water content. So when you're cooking a candy out right all you're basically doing is ensuring that you have the uh the exact amount of water removed from the system that you want. So once you assuming that all the solids are the same right the pumpkin puree etc etc assuming all the solids are the same and that you know 99% of the alcohol will have evaporated out once you reach those high high temperatures the good news is that you uh will have the same water content in your candy and so your texture will be the same.
+
+[2:58] So my feeling is is that is that if you cook to the same temperatures the addition of the bourbon's not going to make that much difference. That's why the amount of water added to a candy cook at the beginning is really not that important um you know plus or minus a little bit because you're the that it's the temperature that guarantees um that your that your candy's gonna have the right the right texture. And that's the great thing about uh cooking candies right Nastasha yes yeah and actually we've been doing a lot of candy cooking recently you can go to our blog we posted our first video uh what was that our video blog post on uh making dragon's beard candy, which is a hand pulled cotton candy. Maybe we'll talk about that a little later, a little later on in the program. Um the as to the second part about whether or not you can um smoke it with a smoking gun, I'm sure I'm sure that you can.
+
+[3:45] I I have never done it. This the smoking gun uh made by Poly Science is kind of a beefed up version of a uh so here's the history of that. So basically they used to sell little vacuum cleaners for uh like vacuuming out your keyboards. I had one because I was a huge geek, huge dork, right? So you had one too?
+
+[4:05] The little things that clean out the keyboard? Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah, nice, nice. All right. So anyway, so uh I didn't know you were that much of a geek.
+
+[4:11] I love that. It's good to know about Nastasha. Anyway, so um those little vacuum cleaners, and then uh at some point, some enterprising uh pothead was like, hey, if I put the battery in upside down and put pot in the top of it and light it on fire, I don't even have to suck on the pipe to get the smoke out. Right? So hence was born this new thing, basically this kind of automatic uh pot pipe, right?
+
+[4:35] So then uh at some point in the late 90s, some chefs in Europe, I think, you know, the first person I saw was uh one roca that demonstrated at Madrid Fusion in uh I think uh oh oh I don't know, oh five or something like that, 04. And uh basically chefs then started uh using it to inject smoke into things. Um and you know, one of the fame some of the famous presentations were Juca uh took uh a cloche, you know, the little the glass like like pheasant under glass, old school kind of cloche, and then cloche means bell, and then uh and then injected smoke into it, uh like plated the dish on the on the plate part of the cloche, and then injected smoke into the bell part, and then brought it over to the diner, lifted the top, and then the smoke would billow out, it would perfume the area, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah. They had another famous dish where they had like a basically a slipper-shaped glass bowl that they then like uh sealed a piece of plastic over the top, made a pinprick hole in it, and then injected smoke into it, and then every time your spoon they plated it on top of the plastic, every time your spoon hit, it would throw a smoke ring up. These are some of the famous dishes that are made with it.
+
+[5:38] Anyway, Philip Preston, our good buddy from PolyScience, who makes the circulators, the only circulator we use, uh, immersion circulator, you know, which you should, if you don't know what it is, just check out immersion circulator on the web. They're fantastic. Anyway, so he makes a kind of a beefed up version of uh this you know pot pipe gone uh food that's used to inject smoke in. I have one, I don't really use it that often, so I'm not I'm not I'm not that much of a wealth of knowledge on on that, but it should work. This is a very long way of saying it should work.
+
+[6:07] However, you might be better off if you want a traditional smoked flavor, not just a little hint of smoke, actually smoking it in a cold smoker. So a lot of people have, and you can look it up, modified uh smokers to be able to produce a cold smoke, mainly by removing the smoke source from uh from the you know, away from the chamber and then running the smoke through a pipe that they pack ice or cold water on or run water over. But yes, that should work. And the uh second port well, there's actually two questions. There's one about the caramels, and then any good sous-vide sweet potato ideas.
+
+[6:40] Yes, again, we have some, we've done some work with sous-vide and sweet potatoes. Those of you that I don't know, brand new listeners don't know what the hell I'm talking about. Sous-vide is any sort of cooking in a vacuum bag. Uh, and in particular, sous-vide is useful, um, a useful way to do low temperature cooking, low temperatures where we um control the temperature where we cook very, very accurately, and it lets us do some interesting special effects. And one of them happens to be with sweet potatoes.
+
+[7:05] Okay, so sweet potatoes contain an uh an enzyme, beta amylase. So a lot of things contain uh that you know it's the same beta amylase, similar beta beta amylase to what's used in brewers to convert starch to sugar. And so what happens is is if you keep uh sweet potatoes at a very accurate temperature, let's say uh 60 uh 60 to 65 uh Celsius 60 Celsius probably better or you know no 50 55 what do you think stuzz I have to go look it up let's say 55. I don't want to um I don't want to kill the enzyme and I don't want to uh you know have the you know what strike what I just said this is like not necessarily safe but cut the sweet potato into pieces vac it on high to get rid of the air put it in the you know in a bag maybe with a little oil or not this is not safe forty do it at 40 Celsius right 40 to 45 Celsius uh only for like two two and a half hours and then ramp the temperature to kill anything that you've uh grown during that time because you're still within the safety limit right so uh what that'll do is that will um cause the beta amylase to start breaking the starch down on the inside of that sweet potato and make it even sweeter okay then uh there there's it's interesting I haven't really run the studies we've done it to try and make the sweet potato sweeter before but there's certain enzymes that you actually need to to activate at a at a higher temperature that will eventually destroy the enzyme but in order to actually liberate the enzyme in a way that it can touch the cellular tissues you need to get to a high enough temperature to have that happen. The one I'm thinking of is pectin methylesterase this the potato strengthening and the well any cell wall strengthening enzyme typically you need to circulate in the area of 60 to 65 Celsius to get that to work, but we've had good results with um with sweet potatoes in the 40 to 45 range.
+
+[8:52] Then you ramp the temperature up to almost simmering to cook the potatoes through and sweet potatoes through. And the advantage is cooking them in a bag is that you can get um there's no flavor loss and there's no flavor addition in or out. So you have like you know, nice looking potatoes. They're not kind of roasted, but they have the in common with a roasted potato, the fact that uh it has been watered down by cooking it in a um by cooking it in uh in a liquid, and also it doesn't, it doesn't uh it doesn't look shriveled or anything. So it's very good.
+
+[9:22] Uh sweet potatoes are excellent in the bag. We do it all the time, and you can ramp up the sweetness by by doing a pre-treatment in the bag. And then by the way, when you're at 40, I would then slowly ramp the like 45 Celsius. I would slowly ramp the temperature up to the you know the simmering point to get it to cook. But you it's gonna take a long time to cook in the bag, a lot longer than it would normally take uh to cook in a pot.
+
+[9:44] More like it would take when if you were gonna roast it, because uh it takes a long time to break to actually break down the the structure of the sweet potato in the absence of a lot of excess water, right? So it's gonna take more um more like the time it would take to roast than the time it would take to um than the time it would take to uh boil. And I would definitely you know cut them into smaller pieces. Is it making any dang sense at all? Yes, Dave, yeah.
+
+[10:06] Yeah. And it's good, it's apropos of Thanksgiving. This is the Thanksgiving Thanksgiving uh episode of cooking issues. All right. So Steve, I hope uh hope I answered that question.
+
+[10:16] Um okay. Now uh I have a question from Teddy DeVico uh and uh teenchef Teddy dot blogspot.com. And he says, uh I recently had an awesome meal at WD50. WD50 is my brother-in-law's restaurant in uh in downtown New York, actually two blocks from my house. And uh, you know, I love I love Wiley, I love his cooking.
+
+[10:37] Uh and uh Teddy says, Wiley uses transglutaminase a lot in his food, shrimp noodles, cold-fried chicken, etc. Is it possible to glue skins to pro skin to proteins? For example, uh, could you take the skin off the back of a chicken and then wrap it around the breast so that the chicken skin would be wrapped around the whole breast. Oh, yes. Oh, yes, Teddy.
+
+[10:55] That is more than possible. Uh that is uh what we do basically every day, you know. Uh not every day, but whenever we cook with meat, we're often doing stuff like that. So for those of you that don't know, transglutaminase is an enzyme that glues uh different proteins together. It can glue any any protein together.
+
+[11:10] It's fantastic, it's all natural, it's a miracle. I love it. Anyway, uh you sprinkle it on like it's powdered sugar, you put the two pieces of meat together that you want to glue together, you let it sit four hours, done. Done. Beautiful.
+
+[11:21] And it's seriously, it's fantastic stuff. Uh, but we don't just glue uh chicken skins to chickens, we glue chicken skins to steaks, right? So we make like a chicken fried steak. You like that, right, Stas? Yeah, it's good stuff.
+
+[11:35] Uh the uh and so with that, like we take a skirt steak and we glue chicken uh skin to it, let it sit four hours, then we can fry it, and it has the skin of a chicken, which is like one of God's great creations, chicken skin, right? Yeah, chicken skin's delicious. And uh, but you know, the inside of skirt steak, which is also delicious. Uh so yes, you can use it for a lot of stuff. You can actually buy it.
+
+[11:55] Um it's not cheap. It's uh it's like eighty dollars for a kilo, but if you store it in the freezer, it you know, they say six months, but really I've I've used it uh longer than a year, and it's that'll glue a lot, a lot of meat together. When you buy your uh transglutaminase, and by the way, the company is a Ginamoto that sells it, and the brand name is uh Activa. And you're gonna want to get Activa RM from a Ginamoto. You can buy it directly from Aginamoto at Aji Foods USA.
+
+[12:24] Or I think uh I think Le Sanctuaire might sell it, and I think Terra Spice might sell it as well online. Uh and you get it, store it in your freezer, and then uh make sure that it always goes back to the freezer. That's that's how you you know are gonna keep it okay. You wanna do all your gluing in 20 minutes, and if you need to test it, put it on a piece of raw meat, and it should smell a little bit like a wet dog or a wet wool sweater, and that smell will go away. I've never been able to detect that uh when I'm when I'm eating it.
+
+[12:50] It's just showing you that the reaction's happening. It's a good way to test out your meat glue. For more information on transglutaminase, please go to our blog, cookingissues.com, click on the primers link at the top, and go to what is it called, Staszi? Is called transglutaminase or meat glue? It's called transglutaminates and in parentheses meat glue.
+
+[13:07] Oh, nice. All right, so double action. So anyway, so go to see the primer section. We have a lot, including like, you know, my ex I'm not gonna say exhaustive, I'll say exhausting. It exhausted me anyway.
+
+[13:18] Research on safety of transglutaminase and uh and whatnot. So uh go go check that out. Um let's take a break. Take a break. Go to our first commercial break.
+
+[13:28] Call in all your questions to 718 497-2128. That's 718 497-2128 cooking issues. Thanks so much, Bone Brother. How you feel, mate? I'll feel all right.
+
+[13:43] Yeah, how you feel, fella? Head! Sure getting down. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time.
+
+[14:01] We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We've gotta take your high. Alright. Yeah, let's do it again.
+
+[14:22] We gotta take the high. Now I won't have a body. Let's bread blow about two cores. And then I want to wave in. Alright, alright.
+
+[14:41] I'm gonna get that fella with a low hole on a little bit. Welcome back to Cooking Issues coming to you live. Call on your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. We got an interesting uh email in from Steve, uh, who basically just sent us some information.
+
+[14:59] Not really the question, but I thought it would be interesting. Uh it's ba it I'm interested in microwaves. So you're interested in microwave, Styles? Not really. Not really.
+
+[15:07] I am. Well, you know, I'm interested in almost everything. But uh, you know, back when I was a kid, I used the microwave mainly to uh melt butter and to blow up light bulbs. You know, because that's those are the two things like blow up eggs, blow up light bulbs, melt chocolate, melt butter. Um, but you know, thanks to the internet, there's a whole bunch of uh people out there doing very, very interesting things with microwaves.
+
+[15:29] And Steve points out that if you if you search uh um neon lamp, I think it's neon lamp, yeah, neon lamp microwave. There's these guys in Holland who have I think Holland, who have a series of videos on how to visualize the patterns of energy in a microwave by basically using a piece of foam core that they stuck a bunch of tiny neon lamps in, and then you put it in the in the oven, and it's like a grid, and you can see the pattern of light that's formed. And the pattern of light, the intensity of the light, is basically showing you the intensity of the uh of the wave in that particular of the magnetic of the uh electromagnetic waves, the microwaves in that in that area. And then they have a couple videos where they show like they put some water in, and they can see how the um how the the placing a load, the water is basically a load absorbing the microwaves, affects uh how the uh the radiation is being distributed in the rest of the in of the microwave. And it's really quite interesting.
+
+[16:21] They show some in the in the, you know, they they have the thing in the top, they have it in the bottom, they have it in the middle, they have it spinning, and it and it better than any other technique I've seen, including the putting the flour in and burning it and things like that, really shows in real time uh what the um what the pattern of energy is. Because you know, one of the big downfalls of the microwave is the unevenness of the energy absorption in it. And the fact that if you put something in, it changes the it changes the cooking characteristics of the entire oven cavity. That's basically the big drawback of uh microwave. Uh, you know, that and for instance, like you know, you have some weird phenomenon, like if if something starts to char in a microwave or if there's things on it that are charred already, they preferentially uh preferentially absorb uh microwave energy, like the carbonized areas do, and then get even hotter and then catch on fire, things like that.
+
+[17:06] I mean, there are some fun things about microwaves. But anyway, so that's a very uh interesting uh experiment, and it's made me, for the next time we do the Harold McGee class, it's made me think that uh, you know, dang, uh, I'm gonna do this, but I'm gonna I don't want to go crazy with it. I wanna uh don't do this. Don't like don't don't ever do this. But the reason the reason the hole size, there's there's a mesh, right, in the front of your microwave uh and that you can kind of see through, right?
+
+[17:34] And the reason it's not bigger than that is is that uh that mesh is designed such that the microwave um which has a uh you know a wavelength much larger than that hole can't propagate at all through that mesh, right? Really, you know, they could make it a little bit bigger, but they want it to be 100% safe. So even so if you put your eyeball against the door of the microwave, which you know my you know, my mom always told me not to do, it's not gonna fry out, fry out your eye. But if you stayed back on it a little bit, you could have a bigger hole like pencil size, right? So don't ever do this.
+
+[18:07] But I'm thinking like you could put like a slightly bigger hole and I could put an armature in that I could actually manipulate the load on the inside, have like a series of lamps on the inside, and then manipulate a load so you can really see by moving the load around in real time what was happening. What do you think, Stash? She's shaking your head. No, Dave, no. Well, I mean, I can do it.
+
+[18:24] I don't want anyone else to do it, but I'm not gonna fry myself. Yeah. I mean, look, don't ever experiment with microwave ohms. Seriously, don't. But like I I will.
+
+[18:32] Do you know what I mean? Yeah. Yeah. But I don't I don't recommend you do it. But for the next time we do the McGee class, I mean I've all of a sudden, like seeing this, seeing this uh these posts, which by the way, only have like 13 views.
+
+[18:43] It's crazy. Yeah, you should go look at them. They're really cool. It's like some of the best visualization of microwaves I've seen. Did you ever talk about your dangerous centrifuge thing?
+
+[18:51] Which which dangerous centrifuge? When you put the glass on top and ran it? No, no, we haven't posted that yet. Well, I'll talk about that one sec. I got a little more on microwave.
+
+[18:58] So Steve did a really interesting thing when he was uh an undergrad in um uh physics undergrad, his professor asked him if asked the whole class, I guess, could you measure any fundamental constants, uh physical constants, in in your kitchen? And so he came up with a fun way to measure the speed of light. So microwaves have a known uh frequency, right? Your microwave oven operates at a known frequency. It's I forget what it is, it's something like 2.4 gigahertz or something like that.
+
+[19:25] You know, you know, in that area, too, you know, 2.4 gigahertz, I think. Memory. This is my memory, doing it from memory. So uh what he did was he stuck a bar of chocolate, a big like a slab, a sheet like a bar of chocolate into the microwave and then turned it on uh on high, right? So you we like you I think it was on high, because you need to establish a standing wave.
+
+[19:46] Has to be a standing wave pattern. And then looked to see uh exactly when the surface started to melt a little bit on the on the bar, pulled it out and measured the distance between the uh the two points of melting in the grid. There's like a grid where it's melted. And then uh using that to calculate um the high power regions, right? So that's each high power region is going to be half of a wavelength, multiply it by two, and then you have the the you know you can calculate if you know how many cycles per second it is and you know how long the wavelength is right then you can calculate the speed of light.
+
+[20:22] So he was able to calculate the speed of light and he got within three percent uh of the correct answer using a regular household ruler, a microwave and a bar of chocolate. Wow. That's another cool microwave trick, huh? That is cool. That's c that's a cool trick Steve.
+
+[20:35] I like that. That's good thinking. And plus I'm sure you made some sort of delicious brownie with the chocolate when you were done at least that's what I would do. That's what I seriously that's all I used to use the microwave for besides blowing up light bulbs and and and eggs was melting chocolate for brownies. But um so anyway so Nastasha said have I talked about my dangerous centrifuge practices.
+
+[20:53] You are into dangerous things. So it's like I'm not into dangerous no, but you know and you say you do it alone but it's like hey I'm gonna run the centrifuge open. Stand behind me and film it. And if it's a good thing, it's not crazy. Listen, we run.
+
+[21:05] Or we'll be in like the National Fruit Collection, and you'll say, if my throat closes up, the epipins here just stab it into me. Liz I don't want to give people the wrong impression. I'm pro safety here. Like, seriously. I'm pro-safety.
+
+[21:17] Um, but sometimes I will do things that some people might consider unsafe, but I feel like I have a hand a handle on. So centrifuges, right? You're not supposed to run them open ever because um just not come on, it's a bad idea. Like, you know, a lot of force involved. If the if the okay a lot of centrifuge parts are made of aluminum, aluminum tends to fatigue.
+
+[21:38] At any minute, if something goes wrong, a bucket could blow out. And if a bu uh a centrifuge is something that separates things based on density, the one I have, the couple of the ones I have have swinging bucket rotors, which means it's basically like holding a paint pail on the end of a stick and spinning it at 4,000 RPM, generating 4,000 times the force of gravity, right? So at these kind of speeds, every gram is equal to about four kilograms. So they use aluminum because it's lightweight, and so you can spin it a lot faster, otherwise the mass would be too high and you wouldn't be able to spin it. Problem is aluminum fatigues and it can be unpredictable and and basically just give out on you at any moment, as any of you may have known.
+
+[22:14] Like, you know, with you know, if you've ever had an incident with an aluminum bicycle, most aluminum bicycles are great. My bicycle is made out of aluminum, nothing against aluminum bicycles. Okay, so uh the point is is that if one of these things goes south, the thing like you know, it can go way far south. Now that the one I'm using is safe as long as it's not like you're not thwarting any of the safety mechanisms. Unfortunately, I know how to thwart all the safety mechanisms, so I can run it with the lid open, which you should never do.
+
+[22:41] So Nastasha's saying it's unsafe, but I want to take a video of the thing while it's running. By the way, there is a centrifuge that's made by Lab Conco called a centrovap that is made with a clear top that we can run, and it comes with a stroboscope so you can see it running while it's going, but it only does very small samples. But maybe we can borrow one or use it to do filming. Anyway, I bought uh a half inch thick piece of um, you know, really tough, I mean it's not quite bulletproof at only a half inch, but like half inch thick um Lexan. And then I used, you know, like 4,000 pound rated uh ratchet come-alongs to to ratchet it down to this top of the centrifuge after I had defeated the safety so I could run it with the lid open.
+
+[23:19] And we took some videos of the centrifuge running, and I used a stroboscope, you know, with like a strobe that with a variable speed on it so that I could like kind of freeze the buckets when we're looking at them. So maybe sometime we'll we'll do a video. What do you think, Stas? Alright, alright, alright, we'll do it. Basically, this is just a long involved way for Nastasha to have you get off my butt and do some more do some more work for the bug.
+
+[23:45] The videos are actually easier to put up on the blog than uh than writing. I you know, writing is such a pain in the behind. But um anyway. So uh so there you have it. That's uh centrifuge and safety.
+
+[23:56] But I don't want like like I said, I don't want any of you guys uh having the impression out there that I do things that are that are unsafe. I wouldn't that's not that's not the case. All right. So now and uh I know we're gonna have to take a break in a couple of minutes, uh, but we're gonna start our uh turkey Thanksgiving turkey extravaganza set of notes. So we have uh uh a nice uh note in from um uh Ken uh Ingber uh from Citroën Mass.
+
+[24:26] Is that how you pronounce Citroën? Citroate Mass? I think so. But he grew up in in Brooklyn, and his question is, uh, why is he still alive after eating his mom's turkey? All right.
+
+[24:36] So his mom, right, and I I'll just read it, right? So uh basically, uh he loved, by the way, his mom's Thanksgiving turkey, right? So his mom slathered the turkey with garlic. Uh this is his quote. Mom slathered the turkey with garlic a couple days before Thanksgiving, covered it with aluminum foil, and kept it on the enclosed back porch.
+
+[24:55] This is New York City in the 50s and 60s. Some years uh uh some years we had snow, but many of those years I would play touch football on the street wearing a t-shirt. Garlic may have had some minor uh antimicrobial properties, which it does, but could that overcome sitting in a climate of 50 degrees for two days? And he in Perenzi goes, I cannot be absolutely sure, but I don't think that mom started with a frozen bird. Uh the fact that none of us ever got sick from the turkey, the fact is none of us ever got sick from the turkey.
+
+[25:19] As a matter of fact, mom's turkey dinner was renowned in the family, eagerly anticipated each year before the event, and then finally recalled afterwards by as many as twenty-five people at a sitting. With all that, I still ask, why am I still alive? It's an excellent question, Ken. I'm glad that you are uh still alive. Uh, but I did a little bit of uh a little bit of research on this, uh, but the the the first thing that pops into my head is uh I wonder whether your mom also put some salt on the outside of the bird as well as garlic.
+
+[25:47] Um, right? I mean, so she put some all like garlic is antimicrobial and uh salt on the outside of the bird would be uh would also help, which she probably did, even if she didn't start with a frozen bird. Uh the only thing I'm curious about is the aluminum foil, because I think what would stop kind of the rotting would be kind of good airflow in a cool environment, right? So it's actually gonna take quite a while for something to spoil at 50 degrees, let's say it's fifty degrees. It it would take a while for something to spoil out in those kind of uh temperatures, especially because um if the cavity, right, which is contaminated, and if the outside of the bird, which is contaminated, is exposed to uh airflow, relatively dry airflow.
+
+[26:28] See, the one thing is is that in in and we're in New York, at this part of time of year in New York, even if it's not very cold, it's also not very humid. So there's not a lot of moisture. So I would assume that you would get basically a pellicle, sort of dry coating that would form on the outside of the bird uh and on the inside cavity. And that to a to a good extent would help prevent some of these spoilage bacteria from growing, right? On its own.
+
+[26:53] The garlic would also help uh prevent some spoilers' bacteria. The inside of the muscle, assuming that the butchering is done properly, is relatively sterile, right? And so it's not going to have a lot of bacteria growing. So as long as it's not really warm and really moist, I'm not surprised, frankly, that it didn't um didn't spoil. Now, the the food safety people are going to go crazy on me here, but listen, listen, if you look back in the day, right, when you hunted birds, what did you do?
+
+[27:20] You hung them up, right? So in the in the old days, when you go hunting, and and a lot of the hunting season for these kind of birds would start in the fall, right? And then uh continue continues through the the winter, but in the fall, you would in relatively cool weather like this, you would hang birds to age. And what would happen during this hanging period, right, whether you drew it or not, you know, meet you know, gut it or not, is the meat would become more tender, especially on something like you know, a wild bird that's going to be tough and stringy, um, the the hanging it is gonna at those slightly higher temperatures, like 50s or so, is gonna encourage the enzymes in the meat to break uh down the meat a little bit and to stop it from being so tough, and so it and also probably inf improve the flavor. So this is a time honored technique.
+
+[28:03] I was reading actually like Texas Hunters magazine from like 2004 or something, and they they you know they were saying, why don't we go back to to aging and hanging meats? But I was not able to find anyone who's done uh I didn't look too much. I mean I'd like to look more because I'm kind of interested in the subject, but I was not able to find uh any scientific studies on uh the microbiology of hanging uh hanging game, you know what I mean? So I know that uh you know the the hunters they recommend that if you shoot something that you you know if it's been hit really hard with shot and the shot penetrates the intestines, right? Then you can't really hang it for too long because you've contaminated the meat with stuff that's that's nasty.
+
+[28:43] But a relatively well killed animal, right? Uh poultry especially, you know, would be would be hung for a while, and in fact, most people don't die. And you know, just to go even further, I mean, it's not necessarily uh it's a it's a bad it's a it's a specious argument, right, to say that that just because I haven't died doing something, for instance, let's say I cross the street every day and don't look, right? Just because I'm not dead doesn't make it a safe practice, but on the other hand, uh techniques like this that go back, you know, since time you know from time immemorial, hanging hanging birds out, um, and not like this is exactly the same because it's a you know, it's uh it's you know a bird that you got from the supermarket or from wherever, um, you know, sometimes these old practices they have validity and they just haven't been uh validated yet by through scientific research. Or maybe it has.
+
+[29:32] I mean, I haven't done uh enough research, but a lot of people, especially with food safety, tend to argue on the extreme side of 100% safety. So there's many things that are forbidden by food codes and food regulations that would be safe that just haven't been adequately studied. So, you know, one way to get things uh, and so I'll give you some more examples. Like you go to Chinatown uh and you see all the meat hanging in the window, right? And that stuff's in the danger zone for a long time, right?
+
+[30:01] So why is that safe? Um well, the the meat's already been cooked, so presumably the bacteria on the inside, with the exception of spores, has been knocked out by the cooking process. Then it's hanging, right, in a relatively warm environment, but it's painted with a shellac of stuff that has a very low water activity, right? You see how they're all glazed, all that meat in the window is glazed or has a dry, fried, crispy surface on the outside. And because there's no uh that there's not a lot of water on the outside, which is where bacteria would be infiltrating, right, from the outside, because they're not going to come from the inside.
+
+[30:32] You killed all those. Um, but because of that, um, there's not a really good place for bacteria to start growing. And so you don't die. And that's why you can go to Chinatown, get one of those ducks that's been hanging in the window all day and eat it without dying, right? Anyway, so uh, you know, I uh the only thing that confuses me a little bit is the aluminum foil because I would think that you might be able to like harbor some bacteria where the aluminum foil is touching the bird because um because there you you wouldn't be dry enough, you might have like a moist environment that could cause some problems.
+
+[31:03] But also most spoilage bacteria you'd be able to smell. So if the turkey started to go south on you, you'd probably know it. You know what I mean? Anyway, excellent question. And uh, you know, my family would never eat it if I tried that technique, but uh apparently it made for a delicious Thanksgiving turkey.
+
+[31:18] And we're gonna go to a break, but more on Thanksgiving turkeys when we come back. Call your questions to 718-497-2128, 718-497-2128 cooking issues. You know what? When I hear a groove like this groove. Oh, baby.
+
+[32:28] Yeah. Yeah. Someone got a groove like this. You know. No.
+
+[32:47] I need to grip. Grip. Need to grip. You know. I've a green bread job.
+
+[33:09] You're listening to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network. Uh, call in all your questions. We're gonna be here for another 15 minutes or so to seven one eight four nine seven two one two eight. That's seven one eight four nine seven two one two eight. So we uh we wrapped up the last segment talking about uh turkey safety and particularly uh, you know, early uh fifth fifties and 60s Brooklyn garlic sitting on the porch turkey.
+
+[33:29] Uh which is a very interesting question. Uh but now I'm gonna turn to the kind of perennial question that people say is what about stuffing the turkey, right? So all the food safety sources, they tell you not to stuff your turkey beforehand. Uh and the reason is is because uh they're worried that you're not gonna get the inside of the stuffing up to temperature in time, right? Or that you're not gonna cook the stuffing at all to the proper temperature, and that you're gonna have possibly an unsafe situation.
+
+[33:57] The other thing that could theoretically happen is that stuff could grow in the stuffing during the time while it's heating up because it takes a long time to heat up, right, to get to the center. And so you're apt to increase your chances for uh having a serious foodborne illness coming out of your turkey. Now, uh here are my feelings on that. If you stuff a bird, right, you're drastically increasing the amount of time it's gonna take to cook the bird because all of a sudden, like, you know, it's it's become a lot a lot bigger thing. So if heat can get into the cavity if it's open, it's gonna roast a lot quicker because you have a lot fewer inches of meat to go through.
+
+[34:33] And doubling the number of inches that something has to go through to get up to temperature radically, radically, radically increases the amount of time it takes to cook it, right? So, first of all, from just from a um a time management standpoint, it takes a long, long time to cook a turkey with stuffing in it. So you're you're apt to not hit a high enough internal temperature to have the stuffing be safe. So they recommend that you don't uh that you don't do it, right? And it's true, uh, you know, I don't like to put my bird in like you know, some people who shall remain name is Nastasha.
+
+[35:04] That's not me, it's my mom. All right, all right. But put the bird in at like the beginning of the day and then like take a like a like a burnt cinder out at dinner time and you know, try to crack it with a hammer and serve it to people. Like that's not how I'm into doing turkeys. Anyway, but um, you know, and and there are uh recipes out there, so the way to really do this, right, is to kind of pre-cook your stuffing a little bit and then shove it into your bird, and this is a good alternative, but it's kind of unsatisfying because you're gonna be cooking the stuffing before you put it in the bird, and that's no good.
+
+[35:32] But if you have a circulator, here's my Thanksgiving stuff stuffing tip for you, my my listeners who have uh immersion circulators. Uh, make your stuffing beforehand, right? Put it in a Ziploc bag. You know, don't be too mean to it, but like, you know, put it in a Ziploc bag and you know, make it fairly compressed, right? And circulate it at 57 Celsius for like an hour, right?
+
+[35:56] Before you're gonna put it into the turkey. Now, when I say 57, I'm assuming that you're keeping your packs of uh stuff look like thinner than about an inch, right? Your Ziploc bags are about only about an inch thick or less. So 57 for like an hour, an hour and 20 minutes, right? Like that, that should kill almost anything in that stuffing, right?
+
+[36:14] Plus, plus, now that stuffing is at 57 degrees Celsius. You could actually go a little higher, like 58, 60. So but 57 is good, and I'll tell you why. There's nothing in most stuffing mixtures, unless you're doing an oyster stuffing or you're doing a like uh, I don't know, like a like a roast beef stuffing. There's nothing in there that is gonna get damaged by 57 degrees Celsius, right?
+
+[36:35] So the binder in most stuffing mixes is gonna be eggs, right? Eggs uh are basically raw when cooked to 57 for the length of time that we're that we're talking about. Raw but pasteurized, right? Um uh bread is gonna be relatively unaffected by these temperatures. Cook sausage, unaffected by these temperatures.
+
+[36:53] Things like celery, like onions that you've swept sweated out, all the textures and tastes of that stuff are gonna be pretty much not affected by 57 Celsius. So, and that's like what, 135 degrees Fahrenheit, somewhere in that range, right? So, uh medium rare for a steak. So you you circulate it for like an hour, hour and a half, up to two hours or so in a Ziploc bag, right? And now you have hot stuffing, right?
+
+[37:16] So now it's time to cook the bird. So you have the bird cavity, salt out the inside, you know, put salt over the inside, which is also gonna help kill some of the bacteria on the inside, blah, blah, blah, make it taste good, yada yada. And then uh take uh like uh a clean pair of dishwashing gloves, nice thick gloves that you know you can hold something that's 57 for a while without burning, and stuff the bird with the hot stuffing, like directly out of the ziplocks, put it out of the circulator, stuff stuff the bird with the hot stuffing. Now the stuffing is safe, right? And you know, you're gonna be cooking it like up to the thing, and it's also gonna give the bird a jump start on cooking, right?
+
+[37:49] What's so funny? What? Nastash is having some sort of lew thought about stuffing hot stuffing. No, no, it's just you saying the bird. That's it.
+
+[37:57] Oh, oh, I did anyway. Okay. So anyway, so you stuff it up with this stuff, and then uh you're giving a jump start, so now the turkey's gonna cook faster. It's gonna cook uh like uh on the insides, it's gonna get a jump start. So it's gonna be, I think it's gonna be a better bird all around.
+
+[38:11] I haven't had time to test it, but I think that the technique in general is a good one and is gonna give you a better, more even cooked uh turkey. So, anyway, that's my Thanksgiving tip for you folks out there. Now, on to my Thanksgiving, right? So uh for readers of the blog uh might know if you read last year, we uh uh developed a technique for cooking turkeys that involved uh boning glove boning, where you basically turn the turkey inside out and uh you turn a turkey inside out, rip out all the bones, and you don't cut it. So it's like basic, it's called glove boning, but it's basically like reaching into a turkey and ripping its its bones out and leaving it whole.
+
+[38:51] And so you have this basically this turkey sack, right? And I also take out the bones of the of the legs. And the reason I do this is because I want to speed up the rate at which it cooks, right? Because if it turns out if you cook a turkey for a long time at low temperature in an immersion circulator, that the meat can get kind of fibery, even if it's not overcooked. So I want to keep the cook time down to about two hours.
+
+[39:11] So I remove the bones because that's extra mass, right? Then I take out the bones in the legs, because the legs want to cook to a higher temperature than the breast, right? Right? Right, right, right. So the legs you're gonna want to cook to about 66 Celsius in that range, and the uh and the breasts you're gonna want to cook to about 64, 65 Celsius.
+
+[39:28] Also, if the legs take too long to cook, especially at these low temperatures where you're not gonna overcook the hell out of them, the redness by the where the bones are never goes away. So you gotta cook fast. So, what we do is is you take aluminum, I make an aluminum skeleton and I pump hot oil through the aluminum skeleton to cook it from the inside out for like an hour or something before I drop it into the rest of the hot fat and then cook the whole thing at the um at the slightly lower temperature. So I give the legs a jump start, I cook them through at 65, because they can also cook a lot longer than the breast without turning kind of fibery. Then I drop the whole bird into the thing, we cook the whole thing through in butter, pick it up, cool it down, and then when it comes Thanksgiving time, we just like spray hot you know fat over it, you know, like crisp it up with a fryer, serve out a bird, delicious, awesome.
+
+[40:11] Also, it has no bones, so you can just slice it. Oh, I forgot. You s we put aluminum foil into the cavity to keep it puffed up during the cooking, otherwise it's you know a nightmare. Also, I use two circulators so that I can cook the inside and the outside at once, you know, whatever. I'm uh, you know, I go, you know, whatever.
+
+[40:27] I I take it to the extreme, but I like a good bird. So this year, and uh the the other thing about it is I can cook a giant turkey like this. So the first time I did it, I did it with like a 30-pound turkey. Uh this time, uh this year I'm cooking a smaller turkey. I'm cooking a heritage breed turkey.
+
+[40:41] I'm actually cooking one from Heritage Foods, the uh, you know, the the patrons of this fine radio network. And uh I'm cooking one of their Narragansett birds. So a Narraganset is an old breed that um is derived from a cross between an old uh commercials, Norfolk something, I think, and wild uh you know, indigenous turkeys from it comes from Rhode Island from the Rhode Island area. These turkeys, by the way, literally roam around on the houses, like around the lawns in in Westchester where my parents live, where my you know, my mom and my stepfather live. And we see them all the time.
+
+[41:09] My stepfather, so divorced from the idea of like food coming from anything other than the supermarket that we saw uh like a what do you call it? Like a gaggle of of wild turkeys running across the lawn one day, and he looks, he goes, Look, fresh turkeys. I'm like, fresh, they're alive. What do you mean? Anyway, so uh so like this Narragansett turkey is a heritage breed.
+
+[41:29] Uh, this one is the one I have is about uh 16 pounds or so, and uh so it's already been boned inside and out, and as soon as we get back to I mean they're sold out this year anyway, so you can't get it. It's too late. It's too late. This is from next year that you should be getting a heritage turkey. Uh there, you know, some people they want to know why why it costs so much, but these are you know, these turkeys are raised by kind of small farmers and they're they're processed you know nicely, and then um, you know, they're they're shipped to you, they're harder to grow, and they're done in smaller numbers, and you know, you're only doing it once a year, so you know, spend the extra money on your don't you don't you love your family?
+
+[42:06] Anyway, so uh so we're cooking this Narraganset uh this bird, and I'll report back uh hopefully next week because I'm assuming it's gonna be incredibly delicious. Because the meat that they they choose these breeds not just because their heritage, but because the meat quality, they're raised not just because they grow fast or have a high what they what's called feed conversion ratio, where they can basically turn, you know, they can produce X number of pounds of turkey for X number of pounds of grain. These breeds are chosen, presumably because the meat tastes better. So uh, you know, I am I'm gonna put as soon as I get back to work today, I'm shoving the aluminum skeleton into this one, and you can read about the old post online. But anyway, so I'm shoving the aluminum skeleton in, we're gonna cook it up.
+
+[42:43] I'm gonna take it up to uh Westchester and uh we will report back uh next week, right? Yeah. Okay, so uh I'll you know end with a a couple of a couple of things. Uh here's one. So uh I did uh an article for cookingissues uh dot com uh about eating weird meats, popular science then approached me and said, We want to, you know, can you write a modified version of that for our blog?
+
+[43:09] I was like, sure, yeah, right? I like popular science. Popular science has been very kind to me in the past, printed, you know, uh a really uh Ted Allen, you know, the food network star wrote something there about me, very nice. And um uh, you know, we like popular science, but whoever edited the piece kind of sexed it up a little bit and made me sound kind of like a bloodthirsty animal hating monster a little bit, right? Yeah, right?
+
+[43:33] But and I didn't even know it. So all of a sudden I start getting all these negative comments on the blog, which I've never had before, and then Nastasha goes and looks at at the actual popular science website, and there's literally someone there who threatened to kidnap me, fatten me up, not necessary, by the way. Fattening me up, not necessary. And then uh, you know, so it could save them some time, right? They they thought they'd have to spend an extra week to fatten me up.
+
+[43:58] Totally unnecessary. Uh and um kill me and then serve me to his dog, right? Serve me to his dog. And and here's my question, right? Your dog's a meat eater.
+
+[44:11] Why aren't you mad at your dog? Right? Anyway. Uh I mean, that's crazy, right? Yeah.
+
+[44:21] Here's the thing. I have so many people. Look, I like I I am not a cruel, heartless bastard, right? I mean, I am, but not about that. Not about the animals.
+
+[44:30] You know, I get all these people writing in about uh these weird animals that we're eating, saying that, you know, we're terrible people, they're sickened, like, especially like there's a picture of a whole cooked raccoon on the on the on our blog, right? And they're like, well, that that whole raccoon is revolting. Here's the thing. Well, it looks like a small child. Well, I hope your child doesn't look like a cooked raccoon, Stasi.
+
+[44:52] You know what I'm saying? My point is this, right? They would prefer that meat eaters have no idea that they were eating an animal. They would prefer that everything be packaged so that you could kill animals indiscriminately and never know that there was an animal involved at all, right? So when a meat eater actually is honest is like, here is a whole animal that we have cooked and eaten, like that's revolting to them.
+
+[45:14] Crazy, right? Yeah. Not logical. People are illogical, you know. And plus, and we'll end on this one.
+
+[45:21] Uh well, we'll end on Happy Thanksgiving. But we'll end we'll end on this one, right? Like, how is the life of a raccoon more august, more worthwhile than the life of a pig, which is clearly a smarter animal, just more delicious. The pigs only is just the picture, though. The picture, yeah.
+
+[45:40] Yeah, I mean, like, you know, I'm not a believer that stuff that you do should be hidden behind closed doors. I'm just don't believe that. Anyway, uh, happy Thanksgiving to you and your you and your family, you and your own, from cooking issues in the Heritage Radio Network. We'll talk to you next week. The New England and New York farm families who own Cabot Cooperative are offering listeners a chance to win some of the world's best cheddar simply by calling in to our network at 718-497-2128 or emailing us at info at heritageradio network.com.
+
+[46:16] What a great way to start the holidays. We'll be picking a winner for the program one week from today. Cabot Creamery is a proud supporter of what heritage radio is all about. You got my head all twisted, and I just can't get it straight.
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+[0:13] Welcome to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network. I'm Dave Arnold, the host of Cooking Issues here with Mistacha the Hammer Lopez, the person who keeps the wheels on the truck. Call in all of your questions, cooking related or not. Well, probably cooking related, technology related or not. Although we will we will take all questions.
+
+[0:29] Yeah, it doesn't yeah, right. Today's today's show isn't just cooking issues, it's issues in general. Uh, you know, especially coming off the holiday weekend. Call in all your questions too. 718-497-2128.
+
+[0:38] That's 718 uh 497-2128. We're gonna be here live for another 45 minutes or so. Today's show is brought to you by 360 Cookware. 360 Cookware is top of the line, stainless steel cookware that is made in America in the greenest cookware manufacturing facility in the country. It can be used to make all of your favorite recipes, but it also gives the option to cook using vapor technology, which creates a seal that surrounds food with intense heat, locking in vitamins, moisture, and flavor without added oil, fat, or excess water.
+
+[1:05] Visit our website at 360cookware.com for more information. That's 360cookware.com. Okay, now. All right. So uh while we're waiting for that phone call, uh let's start in on the Thanksgiving and the uh the Heritage Turkey, the uh the Narragansett.
+
+[1:20] Um listened last week. Uh we uh received a heritage breed Narragansett turkey from uh Heritage uh Heritage Foods, and uh I cooked it using a technique we have a caller, so I'll go back into it in a minute, but suffice it to say, best damn turkey I've ever made in my whole life. So good, in fact, so good that uh uh no one was able to take a picture of it before it was completely gone. Swear to god, like I've never not had turkey leftovers the next day. We didn't even have that many people.
+
+[1:46] Turkey was obliterated. Obliterated. Gone. Anyway, okay, so we have a caller. Caller, you were on the air.
+
+[1:54] Hello. Oh, we lost our collar. Hello? Hello, hey, how are you doing? I'm doing fine.
+
+[2:01] I'm calling from California. And I actually have a question about your hydrocolloid course coming up in January. Alrighty. I'm trying to decide whether it's worth $1,500 for the course plus the flight across country and three nights in a hotel room. Right.
+
+[2:15] Well, so hopefully you'll also eat at some good restaurants while you're here. One of the benefits of being in New York. I do that every year, yeah. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Okay.
+
+[2:22] So you're asking me to sell the class. Okay. Exactly. All right. Well, here's what here's what I hydrocolloids.
+
+[2:29] First of all, you know, I'm a little bit biased because I teach the class. Uh, you know, along with uh Nils Noran, the VP of Culinary uh Culinary Arts, I guess is his title over there. Um, it's you know, I realize that the classes can be somewhat pricey, and but there's a whole lot of work that goes into it. And whether or not it's worthwhile for you depends a lot on you. Hydrocolloids is a it's a difficult subject to teach because it invariably in the class we get people with a wide range of previous uh previous knowledge, previous experience, and also goals, right?
+
+[3:05] So when you're teaching something like low temperature sous vide cooking, uh, you know, pretty much everyone's goals are fairly similar, and it's it's a matter of just showing people what's possible within the realm within the context of cooking low temperature. You know, this is what we can do with different kinds of proteins at different times with different treatments, this is what we can do with uh, you know, uh vegetables, various technologies, ways to do things. And so, like it's very focused, and everyone is there pretty much with the same goal in mind. Hydrocolloids is such a wide open field that um we basically we have to hit, there's certain things we have to hit, right? Because some people in the class may have never used hydrocolloids at all, and some people might be very, very experienced.
+
+[3:44] So the the class has to be a balance between things that uh you know maybe you you might already know how to do, like spherification. We tend to deal with it with a more, you know, in in a more kind of rigorous way than you would get anywhere else. I think that's you know, the the goal that's what you know we try to do in general at the FCI and the tech department and cooking issues in particular, we try to do things in a very rigorous way whenever possible, and I think that's a standpoint you can you know you always get. But aside from those kind of basic techniques, we also try to teach some techniques. There's always something that no one's seen before because we always try to develop at least one or two new things for each class.
+
+[4:17] I mean, when I say new, I mean like brand new. And then um but the the the you know the other thing besides the specific applications is we try to teach a particular way of thinking about using these ingredients. So, you know, how to develop a recipe properly. So I mean, I think that I've had people take the class and come back to me and said that you know they were able to apply their stuff right away in in their menus. You know what I mean?
+
+[4:40] Uh I've never had anyone come back and say uh, you know, it was useless, you know what I mean? Or like what wasn't necessarily worth it. Uh but you know, uh I think it all depends on what you want to get out of it and kind of how you want to apply it. I mean, uh mo a lot of the people that we deal with are chefs, and so for them it's it's straight up. I mean, I don't know whether you're a chef or not, but a lot of them is straight up, well, am I going to get enough new menu items out of it?
+
+[5:03] And usually the answer is yes. Um, you know, also I'm terrible at selling myself. Am I right, Nastasha? That's true. I'm like the worst person at selling myself because uh, you know, I I hate to to sell someone on something and then have them not get what they want.
+
+[5:14] Is this helpful at all or no? It's a little bit helpful. Uh let me tell you where I'm at. Uh you know, I've read things like the you know, the hydrocolloid recipe collection from uh Martin Lurch, and I've read your primer and stuff and done some of the recipes. Uh I'm not as interested actually in recipes as I am in understanding if I'm going to be using sodium alginate and calcium carbonate, that what are the, you know, how does acidity affect it?
+
+[5:41] How does uh you know temperature affect things like that, so that I can then use those chemicals uh on my own without a recipe uh to develop new things. I mean that that's our that's our goal. Our you know, my my goal in general, and if you talk to you know, like my brother-in-law Wiley Dufresne at WD50, he hates giving hate, but he he prefers not to just give out straight recipes because he wants to foster understanding of how to use these ingredients, right? I mean, with I mean the the the one problem is is that it's a over the course of two days we're gonna be dealing with a w wide range of uh of products. So, I mean, like for instance with alginate, one of the things we deal with in general, alginate, you know, as you've you know alluded to.
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+[6:20] Uh for all those of you who don't know what the heck we're talking about, sodium alginate is a seaweed-derived uh hydrocolloid, like a like a gelling agent that stays liquid until it hits uh calcium, free calcium, at which point it forms a gel that you know uh that is not broken neither by heat nor by anything else, basically. I mean it's just the gels there forever. The unfortunate part about sodium alginate is it tends to uh suck up flavor, have very kind of poor flavor, the gel itself. You would never eat a block of alginate because it just tastes wretched. Anyway, but so uh as you know, it's affected by acid.
+
+[6:51] So yes, we get into that, right? Um but you know, or like you know, uh it's more saying the level we're gonna take it to is look, if you know you can't have acid too much acid because it's not it's gonna cause the alginate not to set. And then uh, you know, furthermore, you need to use uh something called a sequestrant to sequester the calcium that's freed up in the water as the acidity increases, or use a buffering agent such as sodium citrate. I mean, we'll get into that kind of stuff and like sodium hexametophosphate, but it's you know it's not it means it's i there's only a certain level of actual technical information we can get into in the class because we're d like I say we're dealing with people with a wide range of backgrounds and goals. You know what I mean?
+
+[7:27] So we're gonna deal with it, but uh you know I'm not gonna say that it's the same as reading scientific literature on the subject, you know, which which we can point you to you know you know what I mean? This is well the scientific literature doesn't necessarily apply I find a lot of it is just uh to get to the where I can use it in my cooking uh is a bit obtuse. Um yeah just uh I'm a culinary instructor and and I d uh really don't like giving out recipes. I'm in that that frame of mine I'm I want to teach people principles. I'm gonna teach them you know how to think about the food and then go ahead and do it uh without having to follow a recipe uh line by line some sort of prescription.
+
+[8:05] So that's the sort of and it sounds like you're doing that in the class so you're not doing recipes that you are going more into the the principles. Right and we've had really good luck with culinary uh instructors by the way taking our class so to get to school to pay for it. It's a non profit sorry. Yeah all right well anyway I I hope to see you in January and thanks for calling. Okay.
+
+[8:26] Bye. All right. Okay, so now uh back to our uh Thanksgiving real quick. Wait, oh we have another caller caller you are on the air. Hi there.
+
+[8:35] Dave it's Colin Gore again from down here in DC. Howdy uh I have two things I want to ask uh I know there's probably a break coming up so maybe pick whichever's easier. We'll we'll power through it. Let's do it. Alright, okay.
+
+[8:48] So first thing I want to do, I I'm making oyster mushroom soup oysters, right, out of kind of dropping them in an alginate bath and making these kind of like snotty little oyster looking things that are full of delicious briny oyster soup. And uh I want to make the kind of that alginate skin on them a little more pearlescent, a little more like you know, oystery, not like s thin uh translucent kind of snotty thing you get from the alginate. Right. Okay, so but like like hard snot. It's not like it's not like a Xanthan snot.
+
+[9:27] You're not adding a lot of Xanthan Oh yeah no no they like they come out great. It's just they're they're clear right I want this I want that very surface kind of skin to have a little bit of tr like be more translucent than transparent. Okay. Give it some kind of color Okay, here's a here's a couple of ways we can go. First of all, are you doing a forward alginate or reverse alginate?
+
+[9:47] Uh reverse. Okay you're doing so you're doing and you're they're frozen beforehand or or not frozen? Not frozen. Okay. Just out of curiosity I I do a a lot of mine I'll freeze just because it makes it easier like you freeze the mixture and then you drop it in and you don't have to worry about it.
+
+[10:01] Yeah so I'm on definitely had problems like you know forming them hit or miss. Yeah basically 98% of the time I'll pre freeze them because it's not that long of an extra step and it just makes the processing much easier. Okay now to your pearlescent problem. There are a couple of solutions. So you're looking to add something to the alginate bath both to modify the texture and the look.
+
+[10:19] Okay. Now if you want to just modify the look I don't recommend this by the way what I'm saying to you I don't recommend but you can go the Quique de costum method Quique de costas you might know famous Spanish chef uh adds a lot of metal dust to a lot of his stuff, right? So you can get food grade, basically pearlescent powder that's relatively flavor free. I'm not recommending this, but I'm saying like as the fastest way. So he did a famous dish where he did an oyster that he literally put silver dust on, like an oyster oyster, not like what you're saying, I believe.
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+[10:48] It's been a long time, been many years. But that looked, you know, that was some shiny stuff. You know what I mean? Uh and it gave her an interesting look. I'm not so much about adding stuff that doesn't have a sort of a flavor impact.
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+[11:00] Now, if you want to go flavor impact, you can do that. It's gonna look good, it's not gonna affect the taste. So you can get food grade silver either from like uh well, usually leaf if you get it from an Indian source, like an Ayurvedic source, but or you can get food grade powders. I don't know where Kiki got them, probably somewhere in Spain. Now, if you want to add more of a shimmer to it, and you want to modify the texture of the alginate, right?
+
+[11:20] So that it doesn't taste like solidified snot, right? Technical term, right? Nastasha solidified snot. Anyway, so uh uh what I would do is emulsify some oil into the alginate base before you drop. So what you're doing is is yeah, so that's gonna if this is an old uh semi-established technique, but one that's not really talked about a lot because everyone knows that the texture of an alginate uh gel is not so great.
+
+[11:42] If you add a little oil, mulsify a little oil in to it, right? All of a sudden, now your teeth are gonna break it better, it's gonna look better, it's gonna feel softer, and as long as you're careful with it, you're not gonna to destroy the integrity of it too much, right? And so and so that what I mean to me, much more than the than adding metal dust to it, like that, because you're improving the actual product other than just the visuals. It will also, you know, because you're emulsifying stuff in, it'll get a shimmery, you know, more of a uh uh salad dressing y, shimmery look to it, but you're actually also gonna be making a better product. Just make sure that you're emulsifying oil into the alginate and not the other way around because the alginate needs to be the continuous phase.
+
+[12:25] Okay. And what was the other one? Let's see whether we can tackle the other one real quick before we go to break, although Nastasha and Jack are gonna chop my head. Uh yeah, I want to ask if you ever so your juices that you clarified with your pectinx, you got you know, nice clear juices. Have you ever tried reducing them or making a glaze or even like a caramel out of that reduced uh juice?
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+[12:45] Oh yes. Do you know if the pectin the pectinx has a negative effect on that at all? No, I we do that all the time. I mean, I've never done it overheat because like you know, we're all about uh trying to preserve the original flavor of it. So I typically will reduce in my rotary evaporator, but I've made some of the most ridiculous reductions.
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+[13:02] So like typical applications we've done like fresh apple reduction that we've clarified and taking it down to a syrup, we've done fresh strawberry. Uh in fact, I don't know whether I talked about it on air, but it was a result of a question someone asked on air once. We I made uh a candy where we did uh I reduced the fresh clarified strawberry juice down, you know, without heat down to about 33 bricks and then used stirred that into a candy base that I had made that I'd let cool, you know, somewhat so that the strawberry wasn't flavored. Crazy, crazy good. Crazy good.
+
+[13:30] And uh we've done blood orange, you like the blood orange, right, Nastasha? Where we reduce it to a syrup post-clarification. So it's an excellent application. Um I don't know what the results with heat are because it's gonna taste a little bit cooked, but um you know, so there's certain clarification steps that if you can cook it, you might as well cook it. But uh on the other hand, pectinex is very good, especially on things like apple and and whatnot.
+
+[13:51] So yes, the quick answer is yes. So well, yeah, I was just curious then. What if uh if I wanted to kind of take the remaining starchy bits and the solid bits out of some like uh sweet potato slurry and try to caramelize the remaining sugars left ever? I know you even talked last week about uh like this is something I've been thinking about for a while. Because you know how like when you bake a sweet potato you get this delicious sometimes sometimes you get this delicious like caramel stuff that oozes out.
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+[14:14] Yes. And like drips on the pan. And I want them I want to make that, but like in large amounts. So I figured especially when I had saw a paper a couple of months ago about uh you know there being a lot of amylases in sweet potatoes so you could maximize you know how much sugar's in them, maybe bite down some extra starches and then I gotta figure out a way to kind of turn that into like you know, remove enough of the kind of solid matter to get like a sugary liquid I can simmer down and turn it into a caramel. There's no question in my mind.
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+[14:54] There's no question in my mind at all that you can juice a sweet potato and then clarify it. I there's no question. And then though the sugars will be in there. Now if you wanted to get sweeter uh you could add some um some brewers and some amylase to it. You know what I mean?
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+[15:07] Some some alpha beta amylase you get a brewer supply shop, add it to that and just and just basically mash it out like you would uh uh a wort for a beer. You know what I mean? And then the question is getting the right balance then clarifying it and cooking out the mash before you set the starch. Before you gelatinize it. You know what I mean?
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+[15:27] Because then after you gelatinize it all everything's okay in the ass. Would you rec uh you know rear I mean do you think pectan X would be a good wrap for that or there's no you know we I could try it. I mean physical separation is what I would try first, but I mean 'cause I don't know how much of it's soluble I don't know how much of it is stabilized by uh by by the pectin, but if something we could try to s if Nastasha remembers to write it down, we'll give it a we'll give it a a whirl. But yeah, definitely doable. Definitely doable.
+
+[15:50] But now now yeah. I mean, do you think I mean could I just try throwing like if I tried throwing it through a juicer, for instance, afterwards, would that be possible? Because I was like, I would juice it. I'll juice it right away. Juice it right away, and then do any procedure you're gonna have to the juice because it's just gonna free up more of the enzymes.
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+[16:07] So juice do all your juicing medicine. I've never tried juicing a sweet potato before. I didn't really know if I could expect it to squeeze a lot out. I don't know what your yield is gonna be. I don't know.
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+[16:17] But you know, you could also juice it, treat the pulp treat the pulp with uh with uh pectan X and re juice. Um button anyway, but give it a toy with it. Either way, you yield's gonna be better than what you get chipping out of soup, and you toss them in on can't be worse. Give us a h give us a holler, tell us how it works. Yeah.
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+[16:36] Alrighty, thanks for calling. So do we are we going to go to a break? Okay, we're going to break. We'll be right back with cooking issues. 7184972128.
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+[16:44] That's 7184972128. So much bone, brother. How do you feel, man? I'll feel all right. I don't want to people to know you're in here.
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+[16:54] How you feel, fellas? We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time.
+
+[17:20] We gotta take a high. Now I won't have about it. I'm gonna get that fella with a low hole and over there. No, James, hold on moment. Brad, get a take us higher.
+
+[17:59] Yeah. Take us higher. Brad! Bad! Bam!
+
+[18:22] Welcome back to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network, uh, the show where we answer all of your cooking issues, or as Nastasha said today, just your issues. Call in all of your questions to 718-497-2128-718-497-2128. Uh here live in Brooklyn. Okay, so back to Thanksgiving for a minute. Uh, because I didn't get to finish what uh what I was saying.
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+[18:44] So we got this, uh, you know, Patrick uh gave us this uh gave me, I should say. Nastasha didn't get to eat me all. But I got my own. Oh, you did? Heritage breed?
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+[18:53] Yeah. But how was it? It was great. Did you overcook it? A little bit.
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+[18:56] A little bit? A little bit or a lot bit? A little bit. Was there any moisture in it at all? Yes, there was.
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+[19:00] Was there a similarity with a with like a hammer? Was it was it like was it like a solid block? No. There was some juice left? Yes.
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+[19:07] You could eat it without gravy. Yeah. Yeah, okay. Anyway, so as uh as I said last week, the one that we got, uh one I got was a narraganset bird. Clocked in around uh 15 pounds, I think, 15 pounds or so.
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+[19:20] So smaller than my normal, you know, gigundous bird, but you know, because heritage breed. So I I did the bionic turkey, boned it in, you know, boned it inside out without cutting the skin, uh, made an aluminum skeleton for it, uh, made you know aluminum leg bones that we cut holes into, so they're like a sprinkler system, hooked it up to a circulator, piped hot oil through the through the uh Erzat's leg bones to cook the legs from the inside out at the correct temperature. I set my circulator at 67.5 for a final temperature in the leg after it was pumped through all the aluminum of about 66, uh, which is where I wanted it. Then uh after about an hour and 20 minutes of that, dropped the whole bird, still with the leg pumping through to get it inside a lot, threw it into a big thing of duck fat. When I say oil, I meant duck fat, uh, in duck fat, cooked it all to about a six, started it a little higher at like sixty-six and dropped it to sixty-five, and then finally a sixty-four for the finish off of the cook.
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+[20:11] Uh so sixty-four and a half. Uh, cooled it down in the fat, like it was in the fat, like it was a confie, ripped it out, and because my parents, well, my stepfather actually is petrified of any sort of cooking operation and doesn't understand it, I decided I was gonna finish the bird in the oven rather than my preferred technique, which is first deep fat frying and then uh failing that, ladling hot fat over it to crisp up the skin. Uh so anyway, so I'm like, all right, listen, my stepfather's name is Gerard, so I'm just gonna call him Gerard from here. He's one time I fried a turkey you know on the on the you know, out on the lawn, right? And a little bit spilled over and hit a little bit of the grass, and he now claims that I started a major forest fire that day.
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+[20:47] And when we says the grass is still dead there, which first of all, let's say it was, who who cares? I mean, he they got an acre of land, like a little patch of dead grass, make it the turkey, you know, cooking spot, right? Anyway, not a big problem, but this is the kind of thing that totally flips him out because he does, like I say, even though he's got one of the best palates for wine that I've ever met, of anyone I've ever met and like loves food, pe petrified and doesn't understand anything about cooking at all. Like doesn't know the sharp end of a knife. Do you know what I'm saying?
+
+[21:12] Anyway, so this year, oh, and then a year after that, I was like, Well, I won't kill your glass, so uh kill your grass. So I I fried it basically against my wishes. My mom said fry the turkey again. This is years ago. And I I fried it on the patio on the flagstone, and some oil hit the flagstone, and and this was one of those sub-freezing Thanksgivings, uh, you know, up in New York, and uh, and uh he was out there ho I don't know what the hell he thought he was doing, hosing down flagstone in below freezing weather because the water was just freezing up as he was trying to get the oil off.
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+[21:37] Anyway, he ended up ruined Thanksgiving for the second time for turkey related reasons. I mean I've ruined Thanksgiving many times for other things, arguments and whatnot. But uh anyway, so this year I was like, it's gonna be somewhat normal. I'm gonna throw the bird in the oven, everything's gonna be fine. I decide my mom has this uh this clay, this clay, uh, you know, like a bake sh baking sheet, almost like a rumor toff, but it's made by you know it's clay baking sheet.
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+[21:59] I'm like, Oh, I'm gonna throw this in like a pizza stone, I'm gonna throw this thing in the because it's got sides, right? So it'll catch the drippings. I'm gonna throw it in the oven, I'm gonna crank the oven to 500 degrees, and then I'm gonna put the turkey in, and the bottom's gonna get brown just like the top, because that's what you know, the bottom never gets brown properly when you're doing this kind of thing. And my mom's like, No, you're gonna set off the smoke detector. I'm like, mom, she has got a new one put in.
+
+[22:18] I'm like, first of all, here's a note to everyone out there. Like, I know safe the smoke detectors, safety, all that crap. Like, put a dang some sort of switch. They are cooking detectors. These things are cooking detectors.
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+[22:27] And my mom's cooking detector is hooked directly to the fire department. So as soon as you start cooking, like the engines come, and then in in Westchester, where my parents live, up they charge you, the city gives you a big fat bill if they show up at your house and there's no fire. Really? Yeah. So it almost makes you want to light a fire, like whenever they come.
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+[22:44] You know what I mean? I didn't say that. I didn't recommend that. Anywho. So, like, you know, I'm running around the house like it's like sticking these like plastic covers, these defeaters over the uh over the the cooking detectors.
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+[22:54] And well, here's what's demented, right? They don't want to put a switch on it in case you should turn it off and then go to bed, but instead they give you a plastic thing to defeat it that you have to remember to get on a chair and remove the plastic thing. Does this make any dang sense? It should be like your virus protection when you when you get on the computer where you say, Okay, I will turn it off for the next 20 minutes. You know what I mean?
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+[23:09] Yeah. So something like that. Anyway, I hate those damn things. My wife installed one once in my apartment in New York, even though we're in a fireproof building, and my only memory of it is it going off and me getting so angry that I literally jumped up and one hand punch fist at it, like you know, like Street Fighter move, like punched the the detective and like rain down on the floor in like little pieces. And I was like, I'm sorry, I had to apologize to everyone.
+
+[23:30] I was like, sorry for the outburst, but I I have this like visceral reaction against cooking detectors. Anyway, uh, you know, anyway, whatever. Here's the thing also when you're cooking in the kitchen, right? You know if there's a fire. It's not like in your bedroom or in a hallway at night.
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+[23:44] You know when you catch something on fire in the kitchen, right? Anyway, and plus everyone's house is underventilated, so there's always smoke whenever you're doing any sort of good cooking operation. So either everyone in the world is setting up apartments in New York, and houses that have those crappy little like Home Depot Brone, nothing against the Brone Corporation, like like Vents, and and you they fire them up, and they never can get all of the all of the uh the smoke out. So either everyone is cooking poorly, maybe true, or everyone is enduring smoke, more probably true, and then a good portion of those people, like someone in the house is freaking out about the smoke, right? It's irritating, whole thing's irritating.
+
+[24:21] Anyway, whatever. So I'm like, it's gonna be fine. We put the the little defeaters over the cooking detectors, fired up the oven to 500, which is the highest that thing would go, convection, threw in the baking sheet, got it all nice and hot, throw the turkey on, and for once the turkey actually fit in the oven because I didn't bring a 30-pound turkey with me, or you know, I brought like a 15-pound turkey. Put it on, all of a sudden, smoke all through the freaking house. Smoke everywhere.
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+[24:45] Smoke, smoke on top of smoke on top of smoke. And I'm like, you know, whatever, it's smoke. I don't care. Everyone's flipping out. Open it up.
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+[24:51] The dang baking sheet, the clay baking sheet had shattered in two. And all of the drippings and fat and everything from the turkey that was crisping up in the thing were on the bottom of the oven, basically smoking like smoking like the devil. And so I didn't get to fully brown the turkey. And yet still the most delicious bird I've ever made in my life. Once we got through the whole, you know, ruining Thanksgiving aspect of it.
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+[25:13] Uh so to report back on the Narragansa turkey, do not overcook the turkey, but the bird definitely had like it was like turkey squared. It tasted like turkey with turkey flavor in it, even though I hadn't reinforced it with anything. It didn't put gravy on it. I brined it lightly before we cooked it, but you know, no big deal. But it had a very meaty flavor, enjoyed by all, including my stepfather's 90 or 91-year-old ex-butcher father who spent his years uh, you know, butchering animals back in the old days, back when meat had had real flavor.
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+[25:42] So that's my report back on the Narragansa turkey. And don't try to crisp that thing on top of a uh on top of a clay baking sheet because bad things will happen. Um anyway, do you want to catch back up on time and take our second break now? Sure. All right.
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+[26:00] Oh, yeah, yeah. Okay, before we go to break, let's uh I have a class coming up, and again, you know, I'm apparently if you listen to the first segment, not so good at the self promotion. But uh this is actually a very inexpensive class. If you happen to be in New York City tomorrow and you want to learn how to make some holiday cocktails that you can make at home and some that require liquid nitrogen or rotary evaporation, then uh for the meager price of $125 dollars, and you'll get how many drinks were you making? Some preposterous number of drinks for the hell is cheaper than a bar almost, because we're gonna give you snacks and everything, too.
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+[26:28] I mean, when you think about it, it. It's two hours, uh 6 30 p.m. to 8 30 p.m. I'll be there. Nils Norn will be there, and we're gonna, you know, make some drinks that go on fire, we're gonna make some drinks that are cold, we're gonna what you know, anyway.
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+[26:41] It's tomorrow, and you can uh sign up by going to www.what French Culinary.com or something. I don't really know. I shouldn't know this kind of stuff. No, I you have to go to the International Culinary Center from the French Culinary. Oh, well, I don't know.
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+[26:55] I don't know. Holiday cocktails. Anyway, it should be fun, and it and if nothing else, you will have a lot to drink. So uh check that out. Call in your questions.
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+[27:06] We're coming back for another segment. 718-497-2128, 718-497-2128 cooking issues. How you feel, brother? Feeling good. You feel good?
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+[27:15] With so much bone, brother. How you feel, mate? I'll feel all right. How you feel, fella? Sure getting down.
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+[27:31] We're gonna have a bunk good time. We're gonna have a bunk good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna take you high.
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+[28:00] We're gonna take you high. Brother! Yeah. Now I won't have a body. Let's bread blow up my new cores.
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+[28:14] Let's go and do that within it. Yeah, alright. I'm gonna get that belly with a little horn over there. Brad gonna take us higher. Take us higher.
+
+[28:44] Welcome back to Cooking Issues. Dave Arnold and Nastasha Lopez here in the studio, waiting for your call at 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. Coming to you from Bushwick, Brooklyn. Alright.
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+[28:59] I have some questions from the uh from the email. We haven't answered any email questions today, have we yet? No. Alright. Uh I have a couple of questions, Chris S.
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+[29:05] says. Uh, I really want an ISI or EC, because they're switching. They're switching to EC here in the US, or they're switching to ISI. EC, I thought. ECISC.
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+[29:14] Yeah, they're both. Like in Europe, they're ISI and here they're EC or vice versa, or something like that. So they're both true. We're just gonna say EC from now on. Hey, you all know what I'm talking about, the whipped cream makers that we use for like uh whipped cream or th rapid infusion technique, you know, developed a couple months ago.
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+[29:28] Um so the question Chris has is uh which is the best one of these uh EC uh things to buy EC whip. First of all, don't don't buy the I mean nothing against, but don't buy the Seltzer one, it's the most limited. Make sure you get a cream one. Uh and there's there's all different kinds. There's Profi Whip, there's the gourmet whip, like nine million, they don't have crazy names, but in general, the the big deal, the newer ones have silicone grip rings on them so that you can grip them when you're wet as opposed to the older ones.
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+[29:55] So I'd look for the ones that are the silicone grip ring. I I should know like exactly what all the line models are, but I don't. The only big difference really is uh the thermal whip. The thermal whip is uh looks like it's like a three-quarter of a liter or something, but it's actually smaller, it's a half liter, and it's insulated. And with the thermal whip, the thermal whip is very useful for people who are working on a line or in an area where they need to keep something hot or cold, and they don't have access to either keeping it in the fridge or in a bain marie of hot water for for service, right?
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+[30:24] So if you need to keep something hot or cold for a long time, then get a thermo whip. But they're a lot more money and their capacity is is lower. Now, I I would definitely I mean it you're more limited if you get a smaller size, but it's also going to cost you less to do a recipe in a smaller size than in a bigger size because you can't just when you're doing an infusion in an EC bottle, you you, you know, the the amount of product in it and how many chargers you put in it are variables, and so you want to keep your recipes the same all the time. Most of my recipes are written for half-liter uh half-liter containers, um, you know, but you can scale them up to liter containers. If you can only buy one and you know you're gonna need to make a lot of product at one point, maybe you have to get uh the liter size, but it's uh it's an interesting question um to answer.
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+[31:10] I use mainly half-liters. By the way, for any of you that like we're like literature in a construction zone here. So if you hear any like hammering, like don't say that it's not Jack's fault, our our our engineer, he's not like doing construction this, but there's only so much sound insulation that we can do, and so there's like, you know, it's because they're making Roberta's pizzeria here even better than it was before. That's why. And so it's worth it.
+
+[31:29] Uh second question Chris has is uh if you put pineapple in an EC with alcohol and charged it, would you get both flavored alcohol and alcohol-infused fruit, similar to using a vacuum machine? I have tried it, we've done it, uh, and yes, you do get some uh some infusion into the pineapple itself. I don't know that it's uh I have to redo it again. It works. I don't think it's maybe as effective at getting the stuff into the pineapple as the vacuum machine, but it's pretty close, like it does actually work.
+
+[31:56] And in fact, I'll probably be demoing that tomorrow. Um the uh caveat is you want to make sure that you use nitrous so that the pineapple doesn't uh taste carbonated, and I think you're gonna boil more of the liquor out when it bubbles out than you would using a vacuum. So I think the vacuum gets a stronger infusion into the pineapple. Pineapple uh is also interesting because a lot of its aroma once it's extracted is very fleeting, uh especially in distillations and things like that. So you're gonna want to probably, you know, balance.
+
+[32:22] Like I wouldn't keep pineapple for a long, long time, even though people do. I think it like loses some of its good aroma. But I hope this hope that helps. Okay. Uh Teddy DeVico called uh wrote in and he said, What are your thoughts on getting the Sous vide Supreme?
+
+[32:35] Is it as accurate as an immersion circulator? Thanks. No. No, it is not. Uh the Sous vide Supreme, uh another little gripe you've heard me say before.
+
+[32:44] Sous vide is cooking in a in uh in a in a vacuum environment in a vacuum bag and sealed like using a vacuum machine. Sous vide Supreme has nothing to do with Sous vide. Sous vide Supreme is a low temperature cooker that's basically a non-stirred water bath. Non stirred water baths have limits of accuracy because they're not stirred, right? I'm not saying it's a bad piece of equipment, but I'm saying that there are limits to its fundamental accuracy and and over very long periods of time, it probably gets a fairly accurate result if you don't stir and you leave it.
+
+[33:10] I mean, if if you just leave it sit, it'll probably equalize over a long period of time. But in general, cooking, I would say that it's not going to be nearly as even or accurate as an immersion circulator, which is typically good to a couple tenths of a degree across the entire bath. So also, immersion circulators are a lot, uh, they can they can do various different sizes and they take up less space in the kitchen. The Sous-de-Supreme, I realize is a couple hundred dollars less than a circulator, but if I was gonna get one, I would save up the couple of hundred extra dollars and get an immersion circulator. I would personally, and I shouldn't ever say this, I would rather have like my own like DIY, like you know, home ghetto circulator than the Sous Vide Supreme.
+
+[33:48] But that's me. That's me. Don't take this. I'm sorry, I apologize. It's not a bad product.
+
+[33:52] I'm just saying that I'm very pro-circulation. Another thing you might want to do is put an aquarium pump into a Souvie Supreme and have it circulate, and then I think you'd you get rid of all of its shortcomings. That's another solution. That's like a like a $25 solution of the problem. Oh, we have a caller.
+
+[34:04] Caller, you were on the air. Hey David, it's Rusty Shockerford. How are you? Hey, doing all right. I'm glad to hear that.
+
+[34:11] I got a question for you. Um I'm illegally distilling alcohol. Good. Yeah, I you know, when I saw it when I originally was directed to cookingacuse.com, I found a kindred spirit in you. So what I want to know is I want to do a Dr.
+
+[34:27] Pepper infusion because as we all know, Dr. Pepper's the champagne and beverages. Yeah. It's not, it's not, yeah, champagne. We gotta think of another one.
+
+[34:34] I have champagne for my favorite beers. We gotta call what we need, like some sort of sham soda term. Yeah, Dr. Pepper, good product. Okay.
+
+[34:40] Dr. Pepper is the preferred drink of the booth at Heritage Radio Network as well. Wow. Yeah. So okay, so what what do you want to infuse with Dr.
+
+[34:48] Pepper? I I just make a basically a neutral grain spirit. That's all I distill right now. Right. And uh it comes in around like 45, 50%.
+
+[34:59] And I wanted to just I bought an ISI and I want to infuse Dr. Pepper flavors into booze. Well, okay. Well, I mean, the problem is like a liquid liquid, like you know what you should do is just buy Dr. Pepper syrup.
+
+[35:17] Yeah. You should like like you should just like I don't know whether you can, like uh Dr. Pepper, I is that Coke or Pepsi? Uh I think it's actually like a it's not owned by either of them. It's like a neph lead or something.
+
+[35:29] Right, but they locally they always go through a uh, you know, in other words, like even if you're an independent locally, you either go through a Coke distributor or a Pepsi distributor for your for your bottling. So like I like you anyway, my point is that if it's ever on tap anywhere, which it is, right? Yeah, it means you can buy the syrup in a bag in box situation. And so those syrups are typically very high bricks because they're mixed in low quantity, so that you can get many, many, many gallons out of it. And then you could just do the real deal.
+
+[35:55] You know what I mean? So you're talking adding, you know, like a very small percentage uh of product. So you could still you could make a straight up Dr. Pepper, you know, booze and not take it, you know, below uh below 40%. If you're starting with if you're starting with 50, you could take it not below 40 and have just straight up Dr.
+
+[36:15] Pepper liquor. You know, and then carbonating. Well, okay, so cle so okay, so it's it's an interesting question. So clarification, right? Typically clarifying is just gonna get rid of stuff that makes it not light not pass through it.
+
+[36:35] Dr. Pepper, the only reason light doesn't pass through it is because it's so concentrated. Like everything is actually in solution there. Do you know what I mean? So like uh if you want it clear, right, the the the then you'd have to I mean the problem is is that like the sugars wouldn't come through and like some of the bittering agents wouldn't come through.
+
+[36:53] So if you redistilled Dr. Pepper, all you get is kind of the um the aroma. Do you know what I'm saying? Which isn't necessarily which isn't necessarily what you want. Another thing we could do, I don't really know the recipe, although I know it it has prunes in it, which is why like the fake ones are called like Dr.
+
+[37:08] Thunder. Uh you know what I mean? Uh you know, reference to your butt, I guess. But the but the the but i i I don't know the actual recipe of Dr. Pepper, but I'm sure this is something that is like a known like thing on the internets that we could look it up.
+
+[37:23] And then if we figure out what the flavor profile is, well then you could start doing distillations with the aroma components of it, and then try to mimic like the sugar acid balance of something like for instance in the prune and get it get it to come come across. And then you could use something that's like less color. Also, there are white prunes, right? So if you're gonna use a prune, like like uh most prunes are are purple because most plums that are made into prunes are purple, but there are white plums that are made into prunes. These don't you can't get them commercially.
+
+[37:51] I think there's some French ones. Uh is it stretching my memory a lot, but I believe like Brignol uh prunes can be white. I'm not sure. But anyway, so you can get that kind of dried fruit flavor and you can add some kind of plum essence back to it to get a plummy thing in a clearer liquid if you start from first principles. But then you're going down a much longer road rather than if you just want like straight up fast delicious, you get your s you get yourself some liquor and you get yourself some Dr.
+
+[38:16] Pepper syrup and you know, you water it to whatever level you want to drink it at and then um and then carbonate it, and then you're good to go. I mean, that's like a one that's like a one day problem. Do you know what I mean? I will I will send you a bottle once it's uh homemade. Oh, we appreciate it.
+
+[38:30] We appreciate it. Thanks for thanks for calling in. One other question. All right. I want to know what your favorite Simpsons episode was.
+
+[38:37] Wow, you know, I haven't watched The Simpsons in a I appreciate the first non-cooking question. I haven't watched the Simpsons in a long time, a long time. Because I, you know, but I I used to watch it faithfully, and there are so many good ones to choose from. Uh the one where the pig is flying through the air and Homer says it's still good, it's still good, it's still good, comes to mind. At least for the vegetarian.
+
+[38:56] Yeah, that's it. That's that's a good one. Uh the the when uh you know when Krusty uh went to jail the first time around. That was an amazing, amazing episode. Like uh the itchy and scratchy, uh the itchy and scratchy uh censorship one, the flag burning one.
+
+[39:12] I mean, there's all there's so many, it's so hard to choose. Think about it for a while. I'll listen next week. And uh I'll put some good thinking into that one. All right, Dave, thanks a lot.
+
+[39:21] All right, thanks for calling. All right. So we see we can rip through some more questions before we're done. Sure. Jack, we have a couple minutes here.
+
+[39:28] Can I rip through some of these questions? And Jack, you've never given me a Dr. Pepper in the studio. Wow, calling you out, calling you out. Also, Dr.
+
+[39:34] Pepper, for those of you that are diet drinkers, a good diet flavor. Look, you know what? Nastasha's sitting here crinkling up her nose. I like look, people who drink diet sodas, right? And I grew up drinking, I realize everyone's gonna hate me now.
+
+[39:45] I gotta drink diet soda. Listen, it's like people who drink diet sodas, right? We don't drink just one. Like people who like have sugarful sodas are like, I need a little bit of a boost. You know what I mean?
+
+[39:54] People drink giant sodas, they don't drink water, right? All they drink is diet soda. So they need to pound a bunch of these things to stay hydrated, right? That used to be me. Now now I drink exclusively seltzer, right?
+
+[40:05] So I don't drink really soda that much anymore because I drink exclusively seltzer. But realize that your diet soda drinking friends and neighbors are using it as a hydration technique, not as a like I need a little bit of sugar. So, you know, and if you're buying for a party, right? Never let a sugar soda drinker buy soda for a party. They're always wrong.
+
+[40:27] This is why at the end of the night, there's no diet coke left, and there's 8,000 bottles of Coke left at the end of the party. Why? Yes, you have no idea what you're talking about. Look, a diet soda drinker goes over and locates their two-liter bottle, right? And then they drink it, right?
+
+[40:42] Whereas you have like a cup of coke. Like, mark my words. Let diet soda drinkers buy the non-alcoholic products for your party. Alright, hold on a sec. I got uh um I got another question from um I got a question from Jacob uh and he had a question about a tabletop vacuum sealer.
+
+[40:59] Um but uh Jacob, I'm gonna answer this question next week because I didn't have time to research the one that you put onto the uh onto the onto the emails. Emails. So uh I'll try and research that. A lot of people are interested in lower priced vacuum machines because kind of the entry level price for a real vacuum machine is in and around $1,500. And there's a wealth of new ones out there that are three and four hundred dollars.
+
+[41:22] And uh the question is, are they any dang good? The answer is I have no idea, uh, because I haven't used them, but I'd like to look at the specs and see whether they're any good. Uh I mean uh it would be great. Like my life would be really cool if like I had the money to go buy all this equipment and test it for for you guys. I don't, you know what I mean?
+
+[41:40] I don't have access to it because uh one thing I'm good at, Nastasha, right, is putting equipment through its paces. Right. Yes or no? Yes. Yes.
+
+[41:48] Uh okay. And one last question, also from uh Teddy DeVico is uh he recently recently got a twist and sparkle, which is a new carbonation uh unit from uh EC that carbonates liquid, and he says uh it's used in drinks, but why not savory things such as sauces or broths? Have you carbonated any sauces or broths or other savory liquids? Uh and uh yes, but you you know the the issues are one, the sauce has to be good served cold because when you heat it, you're gonna lose a lot of the carbonation. And it has to taste good carbonated, which means it has to taste good with CO2.
+
+[42:14] A lot of times with savory dishes, when things have CO2 in them, they start tasting like they're a little bit fermented. And so you have to watch out for that. I would do a quick test just by, you know, like doing 50-50 with uh I mean if you have the ISI Twist of Sparkle, just try it. The rules are make sure it's cold, make sure it doesn't have uh if it has any like milk in it, you're done. It's gonna foam over and spray all over your house.
+
+[42:42] If you if you have particles in it, then it's gonna foam up and spray all over your house. Um so it needs to be clear, otherwise you're gonna run into real problems. Uh but other than that, the only rules are keep it cold and does it taste good. And that's basically like a general good rule for life, right? With well, for carbonating.
+
+[43:00] Keep it, keep the temperature where it wants to be. And what? He said it's a good rule for life. Good rule for life, yeah. Well, you should yes, I'm not gonna get into it on the air.
+
+[43:08] Anyway, so uh this then has been cooking issues. Uh come back, visit us next week. Um Tuesday this time. Vicious visions. Oh, you did crap.
+
+[43:29] Got me on the score. And I don't know where I'm at. Supposed to be my baby. Between minutes later. Enhance your CTE programs with AP and the college credit it offers.
+
+[43:50] New AP Career kickstart courses are now available for high schools to adopt for the 2026-2027 school year. Help your students kickstart their careers with AP Cybersecurity or AP Business with Personal Finance. Learn more at career kickstart.org.
\ No newline at end of file
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+[0:00] I'm Sam Edwards, I'm third generation Cure Master from S. Wallace Edwards and Sons in Surrey, Virginia. We support the Heritage Radio Network because we believe in the cause and what they're doing. They're supporting family-raised uh livestock, small family farms, uh certified humane, pasture-raised, antibiotic free. Basically, we take the products from Heritage Food USA and make them into uh serrano style hands, prosciutto style hands, bacon sausage like my grandfather did.
+
+[0:30] You can find us at SurreyFarms.com or Virginia Traditions.com. Oh, you daddy rap. Got me on this corner. And I don't know where I'm at. Supposed to be a good one.
+
+[1:08] Hello, welcome to Cooking Issues from the Heritage Radio Network, coming to you live every Tuesday from 12 to 1245. I'm Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues here with Nastasha, the hammer Lopez, the hammer of cooking issues. Uh here to set me straight, keep me honest. Uh call in all of your cooking related questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128.
+
+[1:33] So uh today's uh show is brought to you by uh Sam Edwards from S. Wallace Edwards Corporation. I have actually a little uh story to relate about that. I was coming home from Thanksgiving. Uh you know, I take the train uh from my mom's house in Westchester, uh just north of New York, down to Grand Central, stopped at the Murray's cheese shop and saw what might be the messed best marbled ham I've ever seen produced by an American corporation.
+
+[1:56] And it was one of Sam Edwards's uh one of his hams. And I I took it home, it was incredibly delicious. I've known Sam Edwards for several years actually, because I'm been kind of a ham nut for uh for a long time. So uh a couple of problems with the with the ham. It's not marketed under his actual brand name, it's marketed as uh Surrey Farms, and I don't really Surrey Farms I don't really I never knew.
+
+[2:20] So if you go to Murray's cheese in New York or you see something marketed as uh Surrey Farms, it's actually uh an S. Wallace Edwards ham. And then uh I I emailed him, I was like, Well, what's the deal? I've never seen an American ham that's uh that's you know so well marbled. And uh he told me that he was actually getting the pigs from Patrick here at Heritage Foods.
+
+[2:40] What do you think about that, Nastasha? It's pretty cool, right? Yes. Yeah. Anyway, so uh delicious product.
+
+[2:45] Uh we fully support Sam Edwards and his attempt to because I've always said, I think I've talked about on this program before, that uh American ham is delicious, and we have our own uh traditions, and you know, there's no there's there's no reason that Americans should try to pretend to be something else. We have our own delicious country ham, and we have for hundreds and hundreds of years, it's a unique cultural uh product. Uh so I'm a hu huge supporter of it. And my my one gripe has always been that although our cure masters are as good as any cure masters in the world, and by the way, we're it's still in the construction zone here at Roberta's Pizzeria. So if you hear any hammer drilling in the background, no one is attempting to break into the studio and murder us, it's just normal construction going on.
+
+[3:27] Anyway, so I've always said that the one of the main problems isn't the cure masters themselves or the techniques they use, but the quality of pork available to most ham cures here in the US as opposed to those available to let's say the Spanish. Um so Sam Edwards, uh S. Wallace Edwards, is trying to change that, uh, partially by getting some material from Patrick at Heritage Foods, the uh founder of our radio network. So anyway, so kudos to Sam Edwards. Now, on to cooking issues proper.
+
+[3:56] So uh some of you who listen to the show regularly might remember that uh several weeks ago, maybe even a month ago now, uh I issued a challenge that uh if someone could produce a raw chocolate bar that didn't make me want to throw up when I ate it that that even is remotely resembled real chocolate uh or you know tasted good that I would eat raw food for uh a week. Well I have an update to that challenge but before I get to that update uh uh we have a caller Nastasha we have a caller all right caller you're on the air Dave Howdy uh this is Colin Gore down in Washington DC Howdy and yeah I had a I guess not exactly cooking related I mean you know in the in the aura of cooking but not directly related question this time. Um I'm actually in a PhD program in material science department at University of Maryland. Nice. And we are building a seminar series for the upcoming semester and uh I was wondering if you knew had any contacts at PIC gums because I'm interested in trying to get someone from there to talk uh to us, give a kind of presentation that's a little scientific but also kind of cool and interesting.
+
+[5:15] All right. Well, TIC gums, for those of you that don't know what the heck we're talking about, TIC gums is a main major manufacturer of hydrocolloids, which uh again, for those of you who still don't know what the hell I'm talking about. Uh hydrocolloids are a group of kind of uh thickeners and gelling agents that in the past were used almost exclusively by industrial uh concerns to make foods uh cheaper or ship better or last longer when they're frozen, etc. etcetera. Uh but in the past ten years or so have really been used by uh chefs to try and either achieve special effects or increase quality.
+
+[5:48] So there's been a major shift in these ingredients from uh being seen as additives to being seen as legitimate ingredients in in uh high cuisine. So TIC Gums is a major manufacturer of this and their and their uh headquarters is in Maryland somewhere. I think it's somewhere near Beltsville, right? So or they're are they in Pennsylvania? I always forget.
+
+[6:04] Yeah, anyway, they're they're no, they're in Maryland, a little bit a little bit northwest of Baltim northeast of Baltimore. Oh yeah, and I've uh I've supposed to be visited, I suppose I visited there many times. My main kind and th th what's interesting about them also, for those of you listening out there, they will sell to individuals. They're one of the m few manufacturers that uh for some reason takes an interest in in this and they have what's called or at least they used to, uh a chef's kit that you could buy stuff from them. And so t and it's TIC gums, and you can go to them.
+
+[6:33] They the unfortunate thing about TIC gums is that all of their products have horrific names like saladizer 210S and picaloid and you know, all these all these like horrible sounding they sound like parasites, diseases and insects, but um they make really good products. The other thing about them is that they they are uh they're a blender. They are a a gum blender, a solution provider. So they don't provide straight up raw materials the way let's say Dow Chemical would. They blend their own uh proprietary mixtures and their own sources and they sell them, so they won't tell you exactly what's in their mixture, which is the other interesting thing.
+
+[7:06] But the main thing with and I'm gonna answer your question, I'm just explaining to everyone else who doesn't know what TIC gums is. The uh TIC gums well the one we use most is a product called saladizer either the 210s or the 310s and this is something actually that anyone should have around their house it's a mixture of gum arabic and Xanthan gum both natural ingredients and it's uh fantastic at stabilizing uh you know um emulsions oil water emulsions uh uh for later uh to to dilute later so we use it to make simple syrups with oils and fats in them salad dressings sauces it's fantastic stuff it goes in cold it's really easy to use it's not too you know finicky so that that's the product theirs we use the most now the downside I no longer have a real contact on the East Coast my old contacts got Riefler moved to be the West Coast and uh Asia uh rep for TIC gums but they have a hotline called gum guru and uh if if you email us I will try to remember although if for anyone has ever met me I'm horrible at at email but um they're all really nice people down there and I'm sure they'd be happy if you find I don't have his contact info anymore but if you call Scott uh Riefler out on the West Coast he might to say who because he's a really good guy and interesting he used to give the culinary talks on the East Coast. So if you contact him he might know who his current you know incarnation on the East Coast would be because it would be an easy easy trip for them. But yeah TIC gums good people. Yeah all right thanks a lot no problem follow up with that no yeah so if you need any more help again contact us most likely a question on the blog is the best way to get uh a a response because that's the only thing I'm kind of guaranteed to respond to but you know that I they're they're good people and I'm sure they'll they'll respond and actually for those of you out there who have gum questions, like they're one of the few companies that if you ask them uh uh for a problem to it, you know, a solution to a particular problem, like I have XYZ salad dressing, it has these uh situations.
+
+[8:57] Which product do you recommend? They will, unlike most companies, they will actually get back to you with an answer. It's a they have a s uh uh what's it called? System? System called Gum Guru uh on their TIC Gums website.
+
+[9:07] So it's a good good uh good place to go, a good resource, and uh fine people. All right, well thanks for thanks for your question. Uh okay, now back to uh the uh raw food raw food challenge. So what I said was is that if someone could produce a raw food, a raw chocolate that was even remotely delicious at all, and really that didn't leave a bad aftertaste in my mouth, that I would eat uh raw food uh exclusively for a week. Now uh Nastasha is here not just to hammer on you people, but to uh although she never actually does that.
+
+[9:40] But uh uh but to keep me honest, and uh one of my interns, Grace, who's actually has her final today, she's gonna graduate the French culinary. We're gonna lose another fine intern, actually, several. Uh we're losing Piper as well, another fine intern. Um she brought some uh you remember the brand name, Nastasha? No, I don't remember.
+
+[9:57] Some raw it's like you know, it comes in some sort of craft paper, crunchy label thing from Whole Foods Market and it costs like a thousand dollars a bar or something like that. But I ate it and I wasn't revolted, right? Right, yeah. Right. So it looks like I'm I might have to actually do this because if there's if there's anything on earth I hate, it's uh it's a welcher, right?
+
+[10:16] You you know, you someone who welches on bets, you know, you could be a serial killer, I could find something redeeming about you. But someone who welches on that's not really true. If someone who welches on bets, is like, you know, that's like the worst thing in the world, right? Right. It's terrible, right?
+
+[10:28] For you, yeah. Well, for you too, no? You like a welcher? I don't like it. What?
+
+[10:34] I haven't dealt with a lot of them. That's because they're universally reviled and hated. Okay. Anyway, uh, so uh so I can't welsh on this. So now I I had a couple of outs.
+
+[10:44] I gave myself a couple of outs in this bet because I said that not only Yes, I did, if you'll remember, I said not only does it have to be delicious, but it has to actually be raw. And there is a lot of res there are a lot of people out there who basically say there is no such thing as raw as raw cocoa beans because of the processing that they go through on the way they all go above this kind of magic temperature of 108 degrees Fahrenheit where all enzymes are supposed to be destroyed. Before I go on, a little rant about that. Not all enzymes are disturbed, there are enzymes that are destroyed below 118, and there are many, many enzymes that last well, well, well, well, well above 118 degrees Fahrenheit. And how fast an enzyme is denatured is not only a function of temperature, but a function of temperature and time.
+
+[11:28] So to think there's some sort of magic brick wall at 118 degrees Fahrenheit where no enzymes can pass through that brick wall is absurd. I mean, beyond absurd, ridiculous. Has how much basis in science? Zero. Zero zero basis in science.
+
+[11:42] Um now that's one thing about raw food. Second thing about it is I don't know why enzymes like why why should I preserve an enzyme in in in a food? I I have not seen a a p a paper yet that tells me what the benefit is of preserving all the all the enzymes in the food. Now I'm willing to be proven wrong on this, like anything else, I'm willing to be proven wrong. Um but, you know, first of all, a lot of enzymes are going to be deactivated in the gut anyway.
+
+[12:07] Not all of them, but many of them are gonna be deactivated uh in the gut. Many enzymes are bad. You know, they do damaging things to you. Not all enzymes are little beneficent proteins that are like wandering around your body only fixing things that went wrong. So uh I I I don't understand really the whole premise behind raw food either.
+
+[12:24] But that is not that is neither here nor there. The the the fact of the matter is I said that I would do it, and I know many fine people that's exactly it's like the the uh the first the first defense of a prejudiced person, right? I know many fine raw food people. But anyway, it's true. I know many fine raw food people.
+
+[12:41] Uh, but I I have promised I'd do it, so so I will. Um now, but I have to to research it. Oh, the out, the out, sorry. Uh so yeah, chocolate turns out that 99% of the, according to the data that I could gather, which may or may not be true, uh, you know, 99% of the stuff labeled raw chocolate in uh in markets, in food markets, is in fact not raw because there is almost no one out there with processing equipment to actually produce the cocoa butter. So even if you obtained raw, completely raw, like controlled fermentation, so the fermentation never went above 118, which is possible, um, you know, although not likely, but possible, uh, and never been roasted, so it's not going to develop any of the roasted flavors that you would get.
+
+[13:25] To make chocolate, you'd have to express cocoa butter to add cocoa butter back to uh even if you were using just grinding raw raw nibs, you'd have to add cocoa butter back to it to get the chocolate consistency. And the cocoa butter that's pressed is pressed in such a way that the temperature basically uh you know has to get above uh you know 118 degrees Fahrenheit using the equipment that's out there. So uh most people who are providing uh um you know these products to the raw food manufacturers probably are misrepresenting what they're what they're providing. And this is the data that I'm able to gather on the internet. Now there's a there's an interesting guy by the name of Ben Ripple.
+
+[13:59] Ben Ripple has a thing called uh big Tree Farms out in Bali, and I've seen him present a couple times. I met him, although he he wouldn't never remember this, at a taste three, which is a uh an event that ate you know the Mandavi that TED conferences used to have along with you know with Mandavi, and I spoke at it a couple times, and Ben Ripple spoke at it. Uh and uh his deal is is that he wants he he goes to poor farmers in Bali and other uh you know places over there and uh wants to get them some money for their product. And so as far as I can tell, he doesn't really care so much personally about raw food, but he sees it as a niche market where he can all of a sudden raise the value of these products that his farmers are producing by producing a very specialty product for a very niche market where he's not competing with bigger growers or you know bigger countries, bigger industrial concerns. So he's been a supplier of raw cashews for a long time, true raw cashews, and he's spent a lot of time and energy trying to produce a true raw uh chocolate.
+
+[14:53] So apparently, if you get your cocoa products from uh Big Tree Farms, which is Ben Ripple's corporation, you have a guaranteed certified uh raw product. I don't know what the heck the price is. Apparently it's a lot, lot higher than most of the raw uh raw you know chocolate products that are out there. Uh and I think he's a raw, you know, he supplies two manufacturers. But so anyway, I don't know whether the one I got was real or not, but it's weak to try and get out of it just by saying that it probably wasn't actually a raw chocolate.
+
+[15:19] So we're gonna do it. Uh which means that I won't be eating the family meal at the French culinary. Well, me and my family, because who who else cooks at my house? Oh. Yeah, nobody.
+
+[15:29] Now, here's the thing. Now, do we have a uh the the here's do I follow raw food just based on 118? In which case I can have sashimi, right? Or do I mean most raw food people are also like vegovegan style folk, right? Now, if I'm saying what I'm saying is that to be raw food doesn't necessarily mean I have to go vegetarian, right?
+
+[15:52] I mean not that I could go vegetarian. Vegetarian for a week is not a problem. Vegan for a week might be a problem. Uh the problem is that I'd have to find unpasteurized milk, and you can't, it's hard to buy it here in New York if you can get to there's certain farms. You can buy direct from farms, but here in New York City, it's difficult to get unpasteurized milk, so I couldn't have unpasteurized milk.
+
+[16:08] Um but I mean I don't see any reason why I can't have shasim uh sashimi, right? Nastasha, do you see any reason? No. Or carpaccio. I can't have parmesan with my carpaccio, though, because the curd from uh Parmesan cheese is cooked to a uh higher temperature than 118 Fahrenheit during the curding process.
+
+[16:26] So I couldn't have parmesan with my carpaccious which might ruin it for me because really that's the taste of carpaccio anyway, is the is the parmesan and the olive oil. So uh also so that's the first question. Do I follow their rules or just the 118 degree rule? That's the first question I have to figure out. The second thing is I'm gonna have to plan this for a long time because I'm definitely not gonna buy any BS raw food product off the shelf that's just some hyper processed uh crap that has like not doesn't have a good taste, where the only criteria for its manufacture was that it had never been heated because I hate products like that.
+
+[16:57] I'm also not gonna have any substitute products, no, no, you know, raw food product pretending to be something that's cooked, right? The the the challenge is can I make everything truly freaking delicious, right? Truly delicious and also raw and wanting to be what it is instead of an imitation of something else. That's the real challenge. So it's gonna probably take me a month or so to figure out a good week's worth of recipes, learn a whole bunch of techniques.
+
+[17:22] I'm gonna have to read every raw food cookbook there is. Um, you know, I've read Sarma's uh one of Sarma uh Melangaiis' cookbooks. And you know, she's she's nice, she's nice. Maybe I can call her and ask for some advice if she'll still talk to me because I was supposed to help her with a bunch of dehydrator projects she was working on and we never got back to her. Remember that, Nastasha?
+
+[17:38] Yes. Yeah. So if she'll still if she'll still take my calls, I'll call her and try and uh and try and work on that. But uh I'm gonna shoot for a goal somewhere in probably February or something, you know, since that's such a crappy month anyway. We'll do a raw food uh we'll do a raw food week.
+
+[17:54] Nastasha, you gonna eat any of this or no? Sure, I'll I'll do it with you if it happens. Really? What do you mean if it happens? You call me a welcher?
+
+[18:03] Yes. Jeez. I just told you that the worst thing in the world is a welcher. Anyway, all right. So we're gonna go to our first commercial break, but call in all of your questions to 718 497 2128, 718 497 2128 cooking issues.
+
+[18:17] You feel good? So much bone, brother. How you feel, mate? I'll feel all right. I don't want to people to know you in here.
+
+[18:26] How you feel, fella? Hey Dam! Sure getting down. Look at you! We're gonna have a bunk good time.
+
+[18:39] We're gonna have a bunk good time. We're gonna have a bunk good time. We're gonna have a bunk good time. Don't take them up, friend. We gotta take you high.
+
+[19:00] All right. You wanna do it again? Yeah, that you won't. We gotta take you high. Brother!
+
+[19:14] Yeah. Now I won't have a body. Let's bread blow up by two courses. And welcome back to Cooking Issues. Dave Arnold, Coast of Cooking Issues, along with Natasha Lopez.
+
+[19:24] Here from Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn. Call in all your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718 497 2128. Have a question in from Paul. Uh says, Hi Dave.
+
+[19:37] It's well known that baking soda can be used to speed up Mayard reactions and browning. Is this just about pH? Is there something else at work? And then is there anything that can be used to slow down such reactions, myard reactions? For reasons not worth going into, I'd like to be uh able to keep simple broths and soups safely warm for up to 18 hours.
+
+[19:55] Naturally they begin to deteriorate after this long, especially those with vibrant vegetable colors. Any tips or suggestions of something I could throw in, thanks, Paul. Now, I'm gonna have to break this down a little bit. Uh and you know, I know Paul, you probably don't have the time to call in during the show, but this is something I'd really like to kind of figure out exactly uh what what you mean here. Majard reactions, right, are the browning reactions that are um you know that typically go on, they're they're uh very complicated, but they have to do with reducing sugars, certain kinds of sugars uh in proteins, usually uh in the well always in the presence of not always, but usually in the presence of heat, right?
+
+[20:29] Typically higher heats. So we associate kind of toasty brown bread, you know, bread flavors, brown flavors, cooked flavors, and uh a lot of the flavors on the outside of roasted meats and things like that as are Myard uh style flavors, right? And the you know the brown on French fries, the crispy skin, all that. These are things we associate with with myard. These um reactions are indeed speeded up by um the addition of alkaline ingredients.
+
+[20:53] So, for instance, pretzels, famously pretzels are cooked in uh in alkaline water before they're baked to increase uh the the browning in them, and they also give a characteristic kind of alkaline taste. Um, uh also egg whites will brown if cooked for a long time, even though they're not cooked at a very, very high temperature because egg whites are alkaline, so that myard reactions speed it up in it and that's the that's the you know the the thing behind hymene eggs these eggs that are cooked for a long time and turn brown and so at the school you know we do a lot of cooking with eggs and pressure cookers and the eggs turn brown because of myard reactions. So yes basic conditions alkaline conditions which baking soda will produce uh do speed up um browning reactions now that's not the same browning reaction that happens in a in a vegetable soup so if you're doing a broth with vegetables in it and I presume you mean green vegetables right green vegetables we're talking about. So if you're doing uh like a vibrant green vegetable color, those right are not broken down because of myard reactions, right? So like an herb uh an her a blended herb for instance is breaking down because of an enzymatic reaction.
+
+[21:57] So you can stop those things from going brown initially by destroying the enzymes. Now the the the the problem is is that then further browning uh and kind of olive draviness takes on because the chlorophyll in those vegetables is being destroyed because there's there's a magnesium uh that's inside of the chlorophyll the magnesium gets displaced by a hydrogen ion usually uh in the presence of an of an acid right or over long you know long cooking times and that causes the chlorophyll to brown and you lose the vibrancy of the color right so I'm trying to figure out exactly which you know which one of these reactions you're worried about. Now adding something basic like uh like you know baking soda or something to a green vegetable broth or puree should preserve the chlorophyll. Now one of the reasons not to add um you know uh you know baking soda to if you're cooking let's say green beans or broccoli to the water, one of the reasons against it is because although the the green is going to be very well preserved because the the magnesium's not going to get displaced from the chlorophyll, is that they go mushy very, very quickly because the other effect that's going on is that the cell walls of these vegetables are made up of pectin and hemicellulose, and the pectin, right, is um is very resistant to breaking down uh in alkaline in uh acid conditions, but breaks down very, very readily in in alkaline conditions. So you add baking soda to water and you get very green, mushy vegetables.
+
+[23:21] You had acid to the cooking water and you get olive drab uh very you know firm vegetables. So it's like you can't win. But if you're doing a puree, right, then you don't care about the fact that it's gonna be mushy because you're gonna puree the sucker anyway. So you might as well add a pinch of baking soda. You just gotta make sure that you don't get any off-taste, and this should help preserve the green color for a lot longer.
+
+[23:43] Now, also the other thing is that if you store your um your your soups at a lower temperature, you should be able to preserve uh the color faster. Now, I haven't done any control test of storing a broth that's not uh clo uh not a chlorophyll-based broth. I haven't really done a control test on any of this. This is just off the top of my head. But uh, it would be interesting to do a um do a test where we um stored just in an open bane uh you know, a soup at you know 70 degrees C, let's say, for 12 hours to see what happened to it.
+
+[24:19] I don't know how much more appreciable browning you would get, other than maybe you're also getting uh increased browning during uh during evaporation, like a concentration. I'd have to see. But I I'm kind of interested in the problem. So if you email another question into the radio, maybe more specifically, like what recipe you're dealing with and exactly kind of what's going wrong, I'd love to take a look at it, because it seems like an interesting problem, right, Nastasha? Um so anyway, uh, but that led me to another thing is that I did some uh more research on one of the products that we like to use uh is uh stuff called uh Thai red lime paste.
+
+[24:49] And Thai red lime paste is basically limestone, and I always thought that it was naturally red. Uh and there's been very little up till now that I've been able to find in the way of English language references on this Thai ingredient, other than it's used in uh soups and banana like this banana soup to preserve the cell wall of the banana. This goes back to the the mushiness, right? So um so what we do is we we use this Thai red lime paste, which you can get in an Asian grocery store. You put it into water, you shake it up, it settles out, and you use that water.
+
+[25:17] We vacuum inject it into bananas and it makes a banana stay firm even when you cook it. So you can make like a banana's foster, but the bananas they taste cooked and delicious and sweet, but they don't get mushy. And you can also beat the crap out of them in the pan without them breaking apart. So it's one of our favorite recipes. We've been doing it for years.
+
+[25:32] I do it all the time. I love it, bang bang bang, right? But I haven't really found up till now any English language references on it. I always assumed that the the stuff was uh natural, uh, you know, that naturally red. But I found finally an English language blog called She Simmers, and it's written by someone named Leela, but I don't know her last name.
+
+[25:49] And uh she said that the red is actually turmeric that they add to it. Although I don't I don't know if that's true or false. I don't know, but that's what she said. And she also made some interesting points that it's uh that the Thai red lime, and I hadn't thought about this before, is basically calcium uh calcium hydroxide, uh lime, which is the same stuff that's used for nixtil mo nixtolamization, right? Which is the you know, the process used to turn corn into masa and hominy by soaking in an alkaline condition.
+
+[26:17] And I've been wanting to go get cow, which is what they use in Mexico to do this for a long time, and we've had it in our fridge the entire for all these years, we've had the nix nixtamalizing product in our fridge in the form of Thai red lime paste for years and years, and we've never done it. So we're gonna have to run our nixtimalization experiments with the Thai red lime, see what see what we get out of it. But she also does something very interesting, which is that if you add it to fry batters, right, the fry batter stays crispy after it's been fried for a long time, a lot longer than it would if you just used regular water in the batter. So I'm gonna try to do some tempura batters with this Thai red lime and see whether we can get a batter that does indeed blind, taste crispier with this versus not, because I was not able to find any papers, any you know, any scientific papers on adding alkaline uh ingredients to uh to batters to try and you know increase their crispiness. I wasn't able to find it.
+
+[27:12] Um so I don't know. I'm gonna do some research. That's something that you know could be very, very, very interesting, but it's you know it's more crap we have to do. What do you think, Nastasha? Yes, good stuff?
+
+[27:21] Yes, good stuff. But this brings me back to the other point about the about the uh this stuff, this uh lime, is that being calcium and being hydroxide, it's both alkaline but has calcium present. And uh, and what is calcium do to cell walls? Hmm, hmm, hmm, hmm, hmm, hmm, hmm, uh she's been around. Calcium strengthens the pectin, right?
+
+[27:41] So, in the presence of uh a lot of calcium, you're gonna cross-link the um you're gonna cross-link the uh the cat the pectin in there, and it's gonna be resistant to breaking down either by heat or or anything else. And so what I'm wondering is if you use calcium hydroxide as your addition to the boiling water, can you get a vegetable that stays green and is also crunchy? So that is another round of experiments we have to run. I was not able to find anything on that either. But now I only searched for half an hour or so, uh, which is part of the reason that I literally ran in here panting with my hands frozen off uh about ten seconds before the radio show started, much to Nastasha's uh chagrin.
+
+[28:18] Uh the other reason was I couldn't find any gloves on the way out, and that's why I, you know, my hands, I feel like I could crack them with a hammer and they break into tiny little pieces. But um, so a lot of interesting uh experiments were brought up by your question about uh vegetables and broths and uh my art and keeping things green. Uh anyway, uh since it's uh it's about time, we'll go to our second commercial break. Call in your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues.
+
+[28:47] How you feel, brother? Feeling good. You feel good? Thanks so much, bone, brother. How you feel, mate?
+
+[28:54] I'll feel all right. I don't want no people to know you're in here. How you feel, fella? Sure getting down. Look at him!
+
+[29:06] We're gonna have a bunk good time. We're gonna have a bunk good time. We're gonna have a bunk good time. We're gonna have a bunk good time. We've gotta take you high.
+
+[29:32] All right. Yeah, that's your own man. We gotta take the high? Yeah. Now I won't have a body.
+
+[29:50] And then I want to wave me and let's go into it. All right. All right, all right. I'm gonna get that belly with a low hole on over there. Yeah.
+
+[29:58] Take us hold on, over. Bread! Bad! Bam! Welcome back to Cooking Issues.
+
+[30:26] Still time to call in your questions to 718-497-2128. 718-497-2128. Uh so we got a question from Kurt that he had a question about egg substitute. And uh he says as his grandparents have gotten older, he started to watch salt, fat, and cholesterol on their diets much more. Although I have to tell you that contrary to health, like if I get old enough, I'm gonna eat nothing.
+
+[30:46] Of course, I already eat nothing but fats and all this stuff. Anyway, if I make it to that age, I'm definitely gonna start loading up on all the stuff people tell me not to eat. Uh but uh they've tried to use egg substitute and are generally happy with the result in omelets and scrambled eggs, but less so in baking. Can you tell me more about what is in egg substitute as well as uh when is appropriate to use instead of egg? Now, the only thing I know much about egg substitutes is egg substitutes, uh you know, like actual straight up single ingredients that are used to substitute for certain properties in eggs, right?
+
+[31:17] So it looks like you're talking about an egg substitute that can literally be substituted for an egg in like an omelet. I'm more used to dealing with products that are substitutes for eggs, uh, like in in in baking, where you know you say, okay, I have an egg protein that needs to hold something in a in a specific, you know, way. So like I need to imitate the foaming properties of egg white, let's say. So then I would say, okay, then I know what to add. I'm gonna add s some com uh something like a Xanthan for thickening, and I'm gonna add uh some sort of aeration agent, like a methyl cellulose versus whip something like that right so like that kind of stuff I know about or you know Xanthan to hold things together or you know either in gluten or an egg replacing recipes uh or you know I need something that's gonna provide the emulsification of egg yolks so I'm gonna add probably soy less than or something like that.
+
+[32:01] Like these are these are things that I kind of like understand um but like straight up egg replacer I don't have a lot of um a lot of information on off the top of my head so I'm gonna but the thing is do we have a way to actually make sure that I look this up before next week's uh radio sti uh show or not? You keep the question yes keep so we'll just we'll pump it over into next week's questions. But it's it's something I'm I'm interested in looking I'm trying to figure out like what they could make you know that actually looks like an egg on the plate that works like an egg on the plate and why it wouldn't work in baking. So this is something I'm willing to uh investigate further and deserves more time than I uh was able to give it this week Kurt so I will uh check up on that Nastasha will pump that question over on to the next week and another one I got that was kind of difficult from uh Scott Koleric is um uh you know we talked I think a little bit on the Thanksgiving episode about the dragon's beer candy the poshmuck right didn't we? Yeah yeah and so in that recipe uh you know in which this goes to cooking candies um in that recipe you add acid at the beginning of the recipe and what happens is is that the the longer it cooks the acid uh continues to what's called invert the sugar it breaks the sucrose which is a disaccharide down into two monosaccharides um and that reaction is sped up by the presence of acid.
+
+[33:17] So the longer you cook in the presence of acid, the more you break the sugar down into uh the sucrose down into into uh you know glucose and fructose, and that has the um those sugars don't harden up the same way when when the sugar cools down, when the sugar syrup cools down, and so you end up getting a softer product. The longer it cooks, the softer it is. Uh so um Scott was working for a chocolatier, or is working for a chocolateer uh part-time, uh as a chocolatier, I should say, and uh he is told that the faster you cook a caramel to a certain temperature, the softer the product will be. So it's the exact opposite of what we've what we've been uh you know, what we have with regular sugar syrups, right? Uh and so uh he says, I understand that the the temperature in a candy is uh a function of boiling water off, so that as long as the accurate final temperature is reached, right, the product would be the same.
+
+[34:05] And this is something I think I probably also said on that on that thing is that the uh because I remember we also had a question on caramels or something like that. And it's true that uh if you cook to if if you if the only ingredients are sugar and water, and this is why maybe if I was talking about caramels last time, I'll have to look it up. You know, I probably spoke too soon. If the only ingredients are sugar and water, right, then the final temperature is strictly a function of uh of of you know how much water is in there, right? So no matter what, you know, the the the water content's gonna be the same once you reach uh the final the final temperature.
+
+[34:38] Uh and that may or may not be true if other ingredients are in there and changing, so and so altering the boiling point. Uh like if things break down and become soluble or no longer soluble, then they will will, or they will no longer affect the boiling point. I don't know how much that's going to affect the temperature, right? Um now the other problem is is that there's a lot of stuff in a caramel. There's milk solids, there's fats, there's all these other things, and each one of those right affects the final texture of your caramel.
+
+[35:07] And uh, I downloaded a couple scholarly articles, but didn't have a chance to necessarily wait wade through them. And I'm trying to figure I was trying to figure out why it is that cooking it for longer um is going to make it uh make it harder. And I haven't found any yet, except for to say that, you know, that that the sugar is only the the sugar the sugar and how much it's cooked is only one of the things that's affecting the texture. Like something that's going on, as you said, with the with the milk uh milk solids might be uh a factor, like if you cook the milk solids too quick or they don't get converted enough, that might affect the texture. Something going on with the fat, although I doubt it might affect the texture uh based on that.
+
+[35:45] You know, you had posited that you know the there was one cook that you that used to work at this chocolatier where he used to cook uh very, very quickly and he always had to cook to a higher temperature because his caramels were coming out too hard, and less uh too what'd you say, too soft. So you needed to cook them no, sorry, too hard. Anyway, again, getting all bam you know confused. But the um the point is is that I would guess that if you cook it really quickly, you'd liable to go to a higher temperature anyway. Uh you know, I I think it would be unusual where cooking something faster means you got to a lower temperature because I would think that you'd have hotter stuff at the bottom and when you pull it you get a higher rise.
+
+[36:20] But I don't know. So it looks like it's probably a more complex uh more complex problem than you know than first blush looks at. And unfortunately I was I would have talked about it with uh Harold McGee. I spoke to him yesterday, but he's kind of in transit. He's finished up his whirlwind book tour.
+
+[36:35] By the way, Harold McGee has a new book out called what's it called? The keys to good cooking, right? Yeah. Keys to good cooking. Was uh was on the New York Times bestseller, Harold McGee, good friend of uh cooking issues, good friend of the blog, good friend of ours.
+
+[36:46] And um so go buy his book. But anyway, next time I speak to him, which is gonna be at the end of the week, I'm gonna try and ask him about this because it might be something that he researched in you know in all of the uh all the stuff that he's been doing recently for his book. But it it is an interesting question, and you have me uh a little bit uh stumped. So anyway, uh so that is uh all of the questions for uh today. And so I want to uh uh this is a personal plea.
+
+[37:13] If any of you out there have good, and going back to the raw food route raw food challenge, if any of you out there have any suggestions for me, should we write this stuff up on the blog as we do it or no? Nastasha doubts that I'm actually gonna do it. Nastasha doesn't think that sh but not for the reason that you guys out there. You guys out there in Radio Land think I'm a welcher, which means that you think I'm a bad, a poor qual a low quality human being, as my son would say. Yeah, no, I don't think you're a welcher.
+
+[37:38] Well I just think you have a lot. Yeah, uh a lot of stuff to do. Yeah. Okay. Well, look, the fact of the matter is is that it doesn't matter.
+
+[37:48] Like it like a welcher is a welcher. If you say you're gonna do something and you don't, then you're a welcher. It doesn't matter if you're too busy, because the same thing saying, well, I would pay you, but I don't have the money. No, you're a welcher. You made a bet and you couldn't deliver.
+
+[38:01] So we have to do it, right? Um the question is are we gonna have the time to write about it? That's the that's the thing. But I'd like to write about the ex the experience of trying to trying to go raw food. But we're definitely then let me write about the experience.
+
+[38:15] Well, okay, so uh for those of you out here, this is a little insight into into the cooking issues team and why we don't write very often on the blog. And that and the reason is is because I'm a huge jerk, right? And so I have an extr uh I have an extremely narrow point of view about kind of uh everything. And so I'm I'm hard to work with when it comes to writing things. Is this true or false?
+
+[38:40] That's true. That's true. Uh including with myself. The only person harder on uh me is my wife, who's maybe one of the great editors. I mean, you know, maybe not as good as her sister, Miley, my sister-in-law who runs the Food Network magazine, but pretty pretty damn good.
+
+[38:54] My wife is a vicious editor. Um, but aside from stylistically, which I'm horrible at, you know, um content-wise, I'm pretty particular. So uh I don't know. What would you would you what would you want to write about? Uh the experience.
+
+[39:09] The expensive from from my perspective. See, for well, but like about what? Like it couldn't be a good idea. I mean the recipes, the you know, day one, day two, day three, how we feel, you know, the difference between maybe we should start a separate blog. Because we're not about our feelings.
+
+[39:23] I know, but I think people can't do it. Who cares about our feelings? Why would you listen? You guys tell us, but I don't think anyone cares about my personal feelings about anything. I think they do.
+
+[39:32] I don't think so. I mean, why do I I don't care about I I hardly care about my personal feelings about things. Why should anyone else? What you've seen all feelings. I've seen all feelings.
+
+[39:40] No, the thing is like I like here look, here's the thing. And this is maybe I'm gonna offend everyone now, probably, but you know, one of the reasons, you know, I like that the my whole issue with blogs is is trying to like strike this balance between um you know serving yourself and serving and serving other people. I don't necessarily see the value in saying what what I had for dinner tonight. You know what I mean? Unless it's instructive in some way.
+
+[40:08] Like I'm not a good enough writer or a good enough photographer where you know I could spin a yarn about what I ate tonight and have it be, I think, of any use to anyone. You know what I mean? So the the th the question is, you know, how do we do it without becoming self-indulgent? There has to be some sort of learning process. Which means, which is really irritating, is that we're gonna have to develop some sort of new technique or ingredient having to do with raw food stuff.
+
+[40:32] Nastasha's now banging her head against the microphone because she knows what this means is she's gonna have to go through hell because now we're gonna have to come up with some fancy new technique with you know regarding uh raw foods or something. Is that is that your your worry? Yeah, yeah. Yeah. Anyway.
+
+[40:50] But uh, you know, if I if I have to languish in testing hell for a month, it's much better than being a welcher. This has been Cooking Issues. We'll come back next week to answer more of your questions. Oh, you dare
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+[0:20] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network, coming to you every Tuesday from 12 to 1245, the show where we answer all of your cooking related questions. I'm Dave Arnold, the host of Cooking Issues, and I'm here with uh Nastasha. Call in your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. Today's show is being brought to you by TechServe for all of your Macintosh-related technical needs.
+
+[0:49] They're at www.techserve.com, Tech with a K. And uh uh they're actually they're the sponsor, but they're giving away basically their time here uh to talk about the Lower East Side Ecology Center. And the Lower East Side Ecology Center is having its eighth annual uh after the holidays e-waste event uh with uh ten events uh in January. And uh to find out where and when you know when they are, they're in the Lower East Side, which is where I live. Go to uh LES, that's like Lower East Side Ecology Center.org.
+
+[1:18] And they're gonna help uh, you know, put good use to all the equipment that you're gonna throw away after you get your new equipment uh after the holidays, right, Nastasha, something like that? Yeah. Yeah, yeah. Oh, by the way, uh it it came to me through the grapevine uh that uh some listeners of the show believe that I somehow prevent Nastasha from speaking on uh on the radio. In fact, uh this is not the case.
+
+[1:43] I want all of your readers to know that I would be happy to have Nastasha speak more on the radio. It's that she she particularly does not want me to make her uh speak on the radio, so I might make her do some today just to prove that I am not purposely trying to hog all of the all of the air time. You know, you don't really those of you out there probably don't really know Nastasha that well. She likes to be kind of the the puppet master person in the background, you know, manipulating dials and wheels, doesn't like so much to uh to speak. She'll believe me.
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+[2:12] Believe me, when we are not on the radio, she more than makes up for speaking her mind. All right? I'll just put it that way. What do you think, Nastasha? Any any comments?
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+[2:22] Yes, that's true. Yeah. All right. Well, in in the light of trying to get you to say more, we had an email response. By the way, for those of you that didn't listen last time or any time, you know, uh, we are uh, you know, basically a meat eating uh folk, we're a meat eating crew.
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+[2:37] I lost a bet uh about uh that you know someone couldn't produce uh any raw chocolate that I would find even remotely palatable. I lost this bet. And as a result, uh I'm gonna have to uh and Nastasha decided to join me, although she doesn't have to. Uh I'm going to cook and eat, well, cook. I'm going to prepare and eat a raw uh you know raw food diet for a week, probably sometime in late January or February.
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+[3:01] Um, uh last week I had said that maybe I would just do, you know, I could eat like raw fish. That's raw, right? Technically raw. And then uh someone uh emailed us uh you know a response to that, basically calling us giant sissies. Um more me, because Nastasha hadn't said anything because of course I never allow her to speak.
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+[3:19] So you want to re read the uh read the email there. This comes from Pablo Escollar. The cooking issues team. I think you should go raw vegan because one, the raw chocolate bar you ate was mostly like was most most likely raw vegan. Two, it's typically what it meant by raw foods.
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+[3:36] Three, it would be awesome to see how you innovate inside of these constraints. Four, a diet where you can eat raw meat and fish for a week just doesn't sound that hard. That's it, right? And it's hard. And he had the one request.
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+[3:44] Right. And then as far as the writing goes, I think if you do make it about personal experience, my only advice is don't make it sound too much like a post apocalyptic survivor story. Well Pablo, if it if if we don't make it sound like a post apocalyptic survivor story, it won't be like any other day in our lives. You had to visit us sometime, Pablo. And see we literally live in kind of a a small closet hole with no windows.
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+[4:17] So we don't like the the entire world could have crumbled around us and all we'll know is like the the piled up mass of junk and equipment that that we live in in this tiny closet. So our normal lives i you know you know is basically that a post apocalyptic problem. So it won't have anything to do with the raw food but it might have that tone anyway, right Nastash well he also says he tried to do it for a week and it's pretty hard especially in New York in winter. Oh, because you can't get the good uh the good fruits and whatnot well we could do it. It'll do it.
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+[4:44] You know i it i it's just gonna take a lot a lot of research and that's the reason I have to put it off for so long uh is I'm gonna have to read you know basically every book I can find on the subject 'cause that's you know that's the way that's the way I roll Nastasha's rolling her eyes because she knows it's gonna be a huge pain in her behind. But I agree with you Paul uh Pablo rather and uh sorry and uh we will do it we will do raw vegan because you're correct it's more of a challenge and why not take on the challenge. Uh I told my wife this uh last night she's like I'm not eating raw I'm not eating raw food. And um, you know, for a week and I said, Well, uh, what are you gonna do about it? I'm the only person that cooks in the whole house or prepares food, I keep on saying cooking.
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+[5:24] You know what I mean? So, like she's kind of like, other than when she's at work, she has no choice, really. Right. Right? So she's gonna do it.
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+[5:31] Well, I mean, I don't understand her choices. Pizza. Order pizza and not eat what I'm eating. I see the most see here's the thing, right? It food is all about being social.
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+[5:41] So if you you know, like eating something separate from what my family is eating is kind of the the worst idea in the world. I would rather eat nothing and go on a Gandhi fast than prepare something separate for myself and the rest of my family. Like the whole point of eating with your family is you eat together, not a bunch of separate micro meals, you know, that yeah, it doesn't that doesn't make any sense. Anyway, so yes, she's gonna she's gonna eat uh raw food with me for a week, and she'll probably stock up on uh hamburgers or whatnot when she's at work. Okay.
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+[6:11] Uh I had a question last week that I did not answer uh on eggs. And the the question was uh what is in egg substitutes and uh because you know they he was having some problems uh with baking, using the egg substitutes for baking. So I did some research on it, and uh there's basically two different classes of uh egg substitute. The the one, which I think is the one you're using if you're actually using it to make omelets, is more like it's called uh like egg beaters, things like that. And they're not really a hundred percent egg substitute, they're not typically vegan, they're egg whites, and then they add uh flavoring and uh coloring and some other functional stuff to make it act more like an egg when you're scrambling it.
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+[6:49] So what's in the egg beaters, it's 99% egg white apparently, and then the rest of it's color spice, salt, onion powder, xanthan gum, and guar gum. The xanthan and the guar are gonna modify the properties of the uh egg white and make it a little less hard uh and also you know, uh maybe give it some of the proper texture when it's being uh you know poured at poured out uh in into your pan. So that's what's gonna make it kind of act more like an omelet. The coloring is obviously gonna make it more, you know, um more omelet colored uh and the onion and whatnot is I guess just flavors that they think you want in there. Uh so that is basically the egg substitute, you know, if you're just if that's the one you're using, egg beaters.
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+[7:25] Now, the reason that doesn't work well in baking for you is because they haven't added one of the prime things that is in uh eggs, and that is lecithin, right? So eggs contain a good bit of fat, which also you know help in baking to you know in you know make it taste better and and uh their their have functional properties, but there's the emulsifier lecithin uh and other different various uh phospholipids and things in there. So uh if you want to use those in conjunction uh you know with um with soy lecithin, which you can buy, right? That you can add a little bit of soy lecithin, and you'll probably get back a lot of the uh the same properties that you would get in an egg when you're when you're baking. So I would add, I don't know, uh it's so hard to tell.
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+[8:12] I mean, I would add, you know, maybe half a percent by by volume or a percent on egg weight b uh volume of soy lecithin to try and get that um get that that texture back. I would buy the powdered soy lecithin so you don't have to um uh you don't have to heat it too much to get it in. You can with you know, blend it in with a stick blender and you should be able to get it in there, and that might help your your baked goods uh perform better. Now they make now the the the reason why they probably don't put the soy lecithin in there is because they don't want to add a soy product because it's gonna knock out a whole segment of their market if they put a soy product in, and most people aren't using it for baking. Most people who are using egg substitutes for baking are doing it because they want to go vegan.
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+[8:54] They tip they don't want eggs. Either they're allergic to eggs or they want an actual vegan product. And so those are typically powders. And they're usually mixtures of modified starches like tapioca and potato starch. Uh there's the the NRG uh is like one of the famous brands people use.
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+[9:11] Uh and it contains basically tapioca starch, uh, uh potato starch, calcium carbonate, which is uh a leavening agent. Uh I don't know why they use calcium carbonate and not other ones, but typically I would use that as a leavening agent, uh, but it's kind of specific. Citric acid, uh, sodium car carboxy methyl cellulose, which is uh modified cellulose product, which is going to provide viscosity in the batter, and methyl cellulose, which is going to provide viscosity in the batter, and also some gelation when uh the product is heated, and that's gonna provide a little bit of structure that uh the egg would be providing uh w while the batter is hot, while it's you know, while it's hot and being cooked, so when it cools down, whatever starches in your baked thing will have time to set. Now, I I did a cake with Johnny Azzini from John George based on this, you know, years ago, where we literally doped a whole whole ton of uh methylcel, not a whole ton, you know, like you know, point eight percent, into uh a cake and foamed it uh without adding a lot of uh egg white because we wanted to produce a sponge batter that didn't have that kind of protein bite to it, and so we use methylcel for the same property. So they're you know, they're basically including something that gels when it heats, but ungels when it unheats.
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+[10:15] They're including thickeners uh and a little bit of a leavening agent because that's basically what eggs are doing in a in a baking system. So I hope this answers. Do you think that answers that I do a good job this week? Yes. Uh well, that's interesting.
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+[10:32] So if you go to pure, I like that Nastasha is all all she's been thinking about this entire time is whether she gets to drink when we're on the raw food diet. Uh uh I believe you do. Uh the last time I was at uh Sarma's restaurant, uh pure pure food, right? Pure food, pure. Uh you know, they have wine, but you know, they they typically like all the wines were biodynamic and all that.
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+[10:53] I I mean uh we don't have to go biodynamic though, right? That's not part of the part of the list. I don't think so. I don't understand. I like again, I'm gonna get a bunch of h of hate, you know, whatever X, Y, and Z, but I don't really understand the biodynamic thing myself.
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+[11:06] It's like I understand I underst look. It's true that old school farming methods like you know, like the lunar cycles and all this other thing, and like planting based on like X, Y, and Z weather science. Sure, I'm sure they have some sort of basis in fact generated by centuries of trial and error, uh, and you know, wisdom handed down from the ages. Boom. Yes.
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+[11:25] Do I believe this? Yes. But like taking a horn and like packing it with manure and then burying it in your field doesn't make any dang any dang sense to me at all. You know what I mean? Like that seems like hocum.
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+[11:38] No? Yeah. But but I think that, and I've said this before, I think what's good about it is that if you're spending the time to go out in your fields and bury a horn full of donkey poo in your field, I think it means that you're paying more attention to your crops, which is probably gonna make you have a better product. So it's not like that you don't necessarily end up making a better product this way. It's just that um, you know, it's just uh you know, it's not because of the horn and the donkey poo.
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+[12:02] The other thing that's really interesting is I think that a lot of people who are uh are interested in in you know, biodynamics, organics of they never do blind taste tests. I'll never forget this. I went to a wine tasting and uh the you know, the person was handing out these uh completely organic biodynamic wines, right? And they were saying, you know, this wine was produced in a field, and the field is overgrown with all sorts of natural vegetation, and it was awesome, all this. It was so is full of life and then crickets and frogs and birds and you know, all this stuff, right?
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+[12:32] And then he's like, and the one next door, it looked totally barren. They had used you know chemicals on it, and there's nothing growing but the grapes. It was you know, completely unlifelike, there was no blah blah blah. And I was like, oh, wow. So you tasted them side by side, and you really notice a difference in the wine.
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+[12:49] So he's like, ah, why would I taste that wine? I was like, what? What? The whole point is you taste the two wines and you prove that your method does a better job. So we need to find someone who actually knows that situation.
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+[13:03] You can find two producers with very similar soils and climates and varieties, like everything same same, but one's doing the biodynamic action and one's not, and then we do a side by side. That's interesting to me. Would that be interesting to you? Yeah. So if any of you out there have this capability, please call uh or uh write in.
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+[13:20] So anyway, let's go to our uh first commercial break. But remember to call in your questions to 718 497 2128 718 497 2128 cooking issues. How you feel, brother? Feeling good. You feel good?
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+[13:34] So much bone, brother. How you feel, man? I'm feeling all right. I don't want all people to know you're in here. How you feel, fella?
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+[13:44] Sure getting down. Look at him! We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time.
+
+[14:02] We're gonna have a bump good time. We've gotta take you high. All right. You wanna do it again? Yeah, that you won't.
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+[14:19] We've gotta take you high. Now I won't have a body. Let Brad blow up my two cores. And then I want to wave you and let's go into it with dinner. Yeah, alright.
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+[14:38] I'm gonna get that belly with a little horn over there. Brad, get a take us higher. Yeah. Take us higher. Brad!
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+[14:49] Brad! Brad! Welcome back to Cooking Issues. Calling your questions to you. 718497-2128.
+
+[15:00] That's 7184972128. Coming to you live today from the refrigerated trailer that is Roberta's Pizzeria Radio Station. Please come out and eat at the restaurant, though. The restaurant's nice and toasty. It's just the radio station that's uh a refrigerated storage unit.
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+[15:16] Perhaps Patrick's storing his meat here from the uh Heritage Food, and that's why it has to be so cold. Okay. Um now I have a question, uh second time question from Max. Uh, and again, some of it uh is unprintable. Uh so he says he, you know what, I we used a phrase, and maybe Nastasha can say it so I don't have to say it this time for stick blender.
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+[15:37] Dildo stick. Yeah, okay. Yeah. And uh he said, don't worry about that, but it you know, if you if you if you don't want to use that, he gives me a word. I'm not really sure what what language it is, but um I I'm a little worried, knowing Max's questions.
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+[15:51] I'm a little worried to actually say it for fear that I might be saying something, but he says it translated to lopsided carrot as a as the stick blender. That's the slang he uses anyone. Anywho, uh, he has an interesting question. Uh and his question is, uh, why not pig's milk? It and this, Max, is an excellent question, and you you've been worried about it for for years, as have I, although you seem to have actually, you know, arrived at the same answer I did, and uh also, you know, spoken to more people about it, perhaps at more pig farmers.
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+[16:17] Because if you spoke to at least one, you've spoken to more than I have. But the um uh the the the question that always comes to mind is we have yaks milk cheese, we have camels milk cheese, we have cow's milk cheese, we have goats' milk cheese, we have sheep's milk cheese. Can you think of any other animals? They like no, right? I mean, basically m domestic animals, uh, they make milk and you get cheese out of them.
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+[16:41] Why is there no pig milk and or and or pig cheese, right? Now, uh the kind of the answer I'd always you know come up with in my head and spoken to, you know, s I actually have spoken to some pig farmers. But the the the answer is is that hey, look, when a pig gives birth, you use the milk uh from that pig to feed the piglets straight up, you know, and then you take them off of the uh when they take them off, you wean the wean the pig off of uh meaning the pig stops lactating so that you can have pigs again, because pigs, unlike other animals, are really meat machines. You know what I mean? It's not they're not kind of multi-use animals.
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+[17:20] I mean we get leather out of it, sure, boars bristles and and whatnot, but compared to the cow where we get milk, where we get leather, you know, a lot of leather, uh, or compared to the you know, the sheep or or the goat where we can get wool and we can get meat and we can get milk, or the chicken where we can get meat and egg, the pig is a meat machine. You know, it takes garbage and c well it used to take garbage and crap that you would otherwise not be able to use and convert it into meat that your family can eat. And so I think the idea was is that you want to fatten up the little pigs to get them into meat uh as fast as possible. Another interesting thing that I did not know uh Max and thank you for bringing it up is um that pigs don't produce nearly the amount of milk that uh cows produce you know per per body per you know percent body weight uh well actually maybe for percent body weight but he Max says that the average pig is going to produce 13 pounds of milk a day as opposed to a cow that produces 65 pounds of milk per day. Yeah but you know what Max a a cow is a whole hell of a lot bigger than a pig.
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+[18:22] I mean a lot unless you have a giant like super fat pig. So if you were going to breed a fairly young uh a sow that was like on the range of like 200 pounds or something like that like which is normal about slaughter weight you're gonna breed at once I mean to get you know 13 pounds of milk out of that as opposed to you know a cow that weighs you know well over a thousand pounds doesn't seem like such a bad like such a bad trade right I think a lot of it goes to the fact that you know they just use it to feed the the pigs. Now if I had someone with a lot of money sure I would either mechanically you know feed those pigs something else if that's even possible I don't even know and then just take the milk. I mean Max I think that you know next next I don't know where you where you live but next time you're around maybe we can find someone and just run an experiment. I mean you could probably pay a farmer the like if you if you paid the farmer the entire cost of the litter of pigs that was going to be fed off of this pig, I am you know certain that he or she would sell the milk and then you could taste it, see whether it's delicious and uh and make some cheese out of it.
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+[19:20] I mean, um, you know, uh I think that's entirely entirely reasonable, right? What do you think? There was to you know, not to get you know gross about it, but there was a chef, I forget who it was in New York, who was uh using his wife's breast milk uh to prepare things, but I think that was just a gimmick. I mean, that's gotta be a gimmick. I mean, I've you know, I have two kids.
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+[19:42] Listen, uh no, I have two kids, and I I'll tell you, you know, that if you if you have kids and and your your wife or or you, if you're a woman, you know, had to basically, you know, pump milk so that you could go to work and then feed the kid the milk, then you know, this stuff is like a super precious commodity. This is not something that you're taking to the restaurant and turning into dairy products. This is like liquid gold that you treasure and when you accidentally leave one out and it and it goes bad on the counter, you you know, you you s you know, you you you're you know, racked with grief and and horror and pain, you know what I mean? So it's not like something that I think you would normally normally do. But if a chef can do that, then you can definitely get some pig milk.
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+[20:23] And if you get your hands on some, Max, please, you know, let me in on it. At least call me, send me an email, and tell me how the stuff worked out because uh, you know, I'm dying to know, right? Nastasha's not saying anything. I I told you she doesn't want to speak on the air. It's not me.
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+[20:40] It's not me. Um what? Okay. So uh hey, look, this is all in good tone, by the way. This is still a family show.
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+[20:48] I've not said anything. Anyway. Uh Ben writes in and says, Some recipes, particularly uh particularly many Middle Eastern recipes for basmati rice and most Asian recipes for short grain rice, call for you to rinse, soak, and or drain rice before cooking. Other rices and recipes tell you strictly never to wash rice. What does washing do for the final product?
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+[21:08] Is there any reason to use uh one rice uh washing method over another? Does the type of rice affect this decision, the temperature of the water, etc., etc.? Yes. There. No.
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+[21:19] So there's the problem is is that every culture uh has their own style of rice cooking and also their own style of rice that they're using. Here in the U.S., right, if you're if you're using a um an enriched rice that they enrich with uh, you know, with with you know nutrients and stuff like that, a lot of them are basically dusted on. So then if you were to rinse the rice, you would rinse off all of that all of that stuff. Now, that's not an issue so much if you're using uh rice that hasn't been enriched, or if you use rice that's been enriched with uh, you know, I think they have one where they spray it like almost like a wax or an oil base in it or something like that, where it stays in better with rinsing. So I think when someone tells you specifically specifically not to rinse it, what they're doing is they're uh basically saying don't wash off the nutrients, I would guess, right?
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+[22:06] Now the reason to rinse rice is because during the milling process of rice, uh there is excess uh bran and starch that's on left on the outside of the rice. There's also, you know, some of the rice is processed in some pretty nasty conditions. You know, you know, it could have twigs, it could have rocks, it could have dirt, it could have, you know, animal or other types of bad products in it. So uh rinsing is a good step to clean it out. And in fact, if you take uh rice and rinse it, uh most any rice that you can get, the rice turns cloudy really quickly, which means that there's a lot of soluble starch that's coming off of it, or at least some sort of soluble powder.
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+[22:49] Back in the day, they also told you to rinse it because uh when they were milling it or uh and s and sending it out, they would have uh a little bit of talcon to uh increase the kind of whiteness and also I think as a milling aid, and you need to wash the talc out. So the rinsing step is most often to get rid of starch that's on the uh outside or that might that might you know interfere with things. And uh so you know if you take a Japanese rice, right, which is somewhat sticky to begin with, but you don't want it, you don't want the grains to be all glopped together, right? Then you're in a situation where, hey, look, you're gonna do a lot of rinsing of this rice, especially because they don't cook it in a lot of boiling water, right? There's not that much point in um in rinsing your rice if you're going to cook it in an excess of boiling water, like it's done in some in some in Indian recipes.
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+[23:35] Because uh if you're gonna cook it in an excess of boiling water, right, the starch that is going to come off is gonna be relatively diluted unless it's quite dirty, in which case maybe you have to rinse it anyway. But if you're gonna cook it in uh either steamed or small amount of water, right, like like you would like a small amount of water for Japanese cooking, if you don't wash off that rice and there's any starch on the outside, then it's gonna become sticky because the rice already has that that medium grain rice already has a bit of stickiness to it. So to get it to be exactly the right texture, you want to wash it until the water runs clear and there's no more starch coming off of it. And that's where those instructions come from. Now, um you know, other types of rice, I don't think it's gonna matter one way or the other uh too much.
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+[24:15] So for instance, like you know, and and and coming to soaking and cooking technique, a lot depends on the on the type of rice. Soaking right your rice as opposed to washing it, you wash it and then you might soak it. Soaking it is helpful in situations where you want to either not use as much fuel because you want to get some of the water in before you start cooking, or it also helps because any sort of water pre-soaking into the rice is gonna make the cook time quicker and also more even. So if you have a rice, it tends to split open on the outside before the inside is cooked, right? Then if you soak it beforehand, you're going to get a much uh faster and more even cook, and the rice is going to come out better.
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+[24:55] Similarly, with a sticky rice that's steamed, right, you soak it beforehand because if you don't, it's going to be hard for the steaming method to uh to get the uh you know get more moisture in. So the pre-soak on a steaming thing like that really helps cooking uh sticky rice. Now, on a parboiled rice, right? The reason why you can boil parboiled rice in a lot of water for a long time, and you know, it gets a bad name in this country because it's called converted rice, you know, like Uncle Ben's converted bran rice. It gets a bad name here because people think it's some sort of newfangled like like bull schnazz.
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+[25:27] But in fact, right, it's uh an ancient and fantastic technique where you take whole rice, whole, you know, in still in the hull, and you boil it for a period of time in the hull, and you actually increase the nutrient content of your rice by boiling in the hull because you get some of the well, so they say, I haven't really actually read the studies, but you uh you know, you get some of the nutrient from the hull into the rice. Also, you pre gelatinize some of that rice starch. Then when you cool it down, it uh what's called retrogrades, recrystallizes, and becomes resistant to swelling and bursting again. So parboiled rice actually doesn't necessarily cook faster. The ones that cook faster are also uh sometimes parboiled and then pre-boiled again and dried, right?
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+[26:10] So that they're basically they're pre cooked, which is different really from parboiled, and they cook very fast, like minute rice, things like that. But traditional parboiled rice, which they have a you know, a lot of Indian rices that are parboiled, uh, don't actually uh cook uh faster, I don't think, although I'd have to go back and check it. It's been a long time since I've looked at a recipe. But um the interesting thing about them is that they don't rupture or break apart. The grains stay firm and together, even if they're cooked for a long time, and even if they're cooked in a lot of water.
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+[26:40] So there it's a very good technique to get uh individual grains. They have a lot of bounce, they're harder in texture, even though they're cooked, uh, because the starches basically you want to think of them as being kind of preset or or you know, kind of strengthened this uh by this this technique of parboiling, uh cooling it, uh starch retrograding, then milling it and and then cooking it again. Uh so there's a lot to do and uh it with rice. It's extremely complicated. It's based on you know the type of rice you're using, the culture you're dealing with, and and and the recipe you're using.
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+[27:13] I think if your rice is coming out sticky, you're gonna be better off, and you don't want it to be, you maybe you could benefit from some rinsing. If you don't want to rinse, right, uh, and you do like Japanese style, you can buy what's called the rinse-free rice, and it has a Japanese word, which if I had it in front of me, I would attempt to pronounce, but I won't because I won't pronounce it out of my head because I'll get it wrong, and then everyone will laugh at me. But rinse-free rice uses a kind of newer uh milling technology that allows you to have a Japanese rice that has all of that uh extra starch and and and brand coating on the outside completely uh removed without the need for rinsing. Mushim, I'm not I'm not gonna try I'm not gonna I'm not gonna do it. Anyway, uh so it it all depends.
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+[27:53] I wish I could have a hard and fast answer for you, but uh it's there is no hard and fast answer. It's just knowing what the variables are and um kind of how they how they interact. Um is that useful at all, you think? Yeah. Yeah?
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+[28:07] Yes. Yeah. All right. All right, we'll go to our second commercial break. Call in your questions to 718 497 2128.
+
+[28:14] That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues. Oh, how you feel, brother? You feel good? So much bone, brother. How you feel, man?
+
+[28:26] I feel all right. I don't want to people to know you're in here. How you feel, fella? Hey, yeah. Sure getting down.
+
+[28:37] We're gonna have a punk good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. Let's take them up, Brad.
+
+[28:54] We've gotta take you high. All right. Yeah, that's the wrong. We gotta take you high. Brother.
+
+[29:17] Yeah. Now I won't have a body. Let's bread blow up by two courses. And then I'm gonna wave you in. Let's go and fill that with dinner.
+
+[29:24] Now all right. Come on, get that belly with a little horn over there. Brad, get it, take us higher. Yeah. Take us higher.
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+[29:35] Brad. Welcome back to Cooking Issues. Call on your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-212-878-878-8. We heard from uh Ken Ingber.
+
+[30:02] He was the uh gentleman that uh called in about his uh his uh mom's turkey, uh which was left out in the stoop, I believe in was it Brooklyn or Queens? Brooklyn. Brooklyn. And uh and you know, the question was why didn't uh why didn't he die? And you know, I thought that was an interesting question, and so um, and he's still alive, thank God.
+
+[30:18] So he emailed us uh uh another one. He had a question about um the Araby. And the Araby is a coffee machine, I believe it's called an Araby. It's a coffee machine uh invented by the same guy that invented the it's not called an Araby, is it? It's called the the Aerobi, the little frisbee that came out like in the eighties that's like a little ring that you can throw like the length of a whole football field, even if you're like a tiny kid.
+
+[30:40] Do you know what I'm talking about? Do you have any idea what I'm talking about? Jeez, man, I'm old. Anyway, so this guy invented a coffee machine. Uh uh, I guess it is called the Airby.
+
+[30:49] Anyway, so it's a coffee machine where he you know he he basically said, Look, uh, I want to increase the amount of pressure in uh in the brewing chamber so that I can force the coffee through and and thereby I guess get better extraction. So it's very simple mechanism. It's a piston that you drive the uh hot water through your through the puck, right? Uh and produce uh coffee. Now, the the question has always been, is this espresso?
+
+[31:14] And I I'm saying this, I still Nastasha, let's just buy one of these dang things. Are they expensive? They're like 40 bucks. We'll charge it to the school. Let's buy well anyway.
+
+[31:23] Well, no, seriously, we'll buy it and we'll experiment with it because I've gotten enough questions from it that I've never tried it, so I feel kind of like a moron every time I talk about it. But it's it's uh, you know, it it it's by all accounts a good product, but the question is does it make espresso? And my answer is uh no, because and and of course Ken calls me out on this and he goes, Well, part of the controversy is semantic because if you define espresso as a beverage brewed at 195, there's a range there, but yeah, at nine bars, also a range, with a mousetail out of the portafilter, then a device that brews at 175 degrees Fahrenheit, which is what the aerobia apparently does, with moderate hand pressure, it can't make espresso espresso. And that's true. Uh I that's what I'm saying, but I don't think it's merely semantic, because if you look at uh if you look at um the book um The Chemistry of Quality, Espresso Espresso, the Chemistry of Coffee by Andrea Ely, which is I believe available again.
+
+[32:14] It was uh unavailable for a couple of years and is available again. There are numerous charts and graphs showing extraction and the type of not just the the like how much is extracted, but what is extracted at varying different pressures and temperatures. So you're you know, it's not gonna be the same cup of coffee because brewing kinetics is extremely complicated. Uh and you know, in the new year, if I ever find time, I have a lot to do with with it with espresso and pressures and things like that. But it's extremely complicated.
+
+[32:44] So I'm not saying that it can't make a fantastic cup of coffee and maybe the best mocha style pot, you know, coffee ever. But I also wouldn't call, and I don't dislike by the way, mocha pot means those little kind of octagonal things that you put on your stove and the water boils up through them and makes coffee as mocha pot. Everyone know what I'm talking about. Um they're cheap, they're fine. Those things are they're fine, they're great.
+
+[33:06] They make a decent cup of coffee for what they are for a mocha cup of coffee, right? They are a short uh strong cup of coffee. However, to me, that does not mean that it is espresso. That is a different animal entirely, right? So I'm not saying it doesn't make a great cup of coffee.
+
+[33:23] And I and I I shouldn't even talk about it until I get one, but I feel like I should address your your question now. Um I don't feel that it could possibly make the same thing as uh as an espresso. At least not of course, nine tensity espresso you get out uh anywhere is direct anyway, and so you might as well make it any dang way because the people who make it you know care not a whit for how it's made or what it tastes like. You know? Yeah.
+
+[33:45] Like like nine nine t nine times out of ten you go and someone's pulling a shot in like fifteen seconds or forty-five seconds, and they don't really care that you know the you know what the shot time is, they're not really accurate with their dosing, they're not really accurate with their tamping, their grinders aren't adjusted properly. I mean, a any one of those variables throw off in your espresso is not gonna be the same, at which point, you know, maybe you might as well just make it out of a forty, you know, a forty dollar pot. Which is which is not to be disparaging on the forty dollar thing. I really want to get one experiment with it. Maybe maybe it'll change my life and you know, I'll throw away my La San Marco espresso machine.
+
+[34:20] Anyway, I don't know. Uh I uh but it definitely needs some experimentation. And he also pointed me to a really interesting um little uh thing on Coffee Geek, which is a fantastic website, by the way. I've I love Coffee Geek. Uh I've been going to it for a long, long time.
+
+[34:33] I lurk there, I never really comment, but it's a fantastic site. And um uh point to a person who's measuring their coffee extraction using a refractometer, which is I've heard about before, but I've never actually done it, and again, now I feel foolish for not having done it, because w one of the main you know, quality characteristics in coffee is how much stuff you're extracting out of the coffee bean, and the way one of the ways you could test this obviously is by measuring how much stuff other than water is in the coffee when you're done. And uh a lot of people use what's called a total dissolved solids meter that's basically measuring the conductivity to to do this. And instead, this other gentleman whose name escapes me, is using a refractometer, which seems like a fantastic uh technique and a really great way for someone at home or even in a restaurant to make sure that their coffee is staying on point, at least in terms of extraction. But remember, even at the same level of total extraction, right, out of coffee, it doesn't mean you're extracting the same thing, right?
+
+[35:29] At different temperatures, different things are going to extract differently. So if you get, let's say, whatever you're going to get, like, you know, 10% extraction out of the coffee, right? Bean, right? Let's say you get that. Well, who's to say that it's the same 10%?
+
+[35:44] You're just measuring, you don't know that you don't know the distribution of, you know, of the different elements that you're sucking out of the coffee and how that's affected by the pressure and the temperature. So to measure uh the performance of a machine strictly based on uh extraction in terms of what it reads on a refractometer, I think is missing what uh, you know, the full kind of gestalt of what's going on in espresso. And it also harks back to, you know, I think a real problem with all of food science, which is, you know, we often uh, you know, I read, I read food science, and you need to make metrics. You need to quantify what you're doing in order to have a result, in order to have repeatability, especially in industrial commercial scale. But often these measurements, which are trying to measure are very something very specific, like crispness, they're trying to measure like how, you know, how hard it is to break and deform a crust, let's say, or total dissolved solids, or any one of a number of things.
+
+[36:39] These metrics um are really measuring something that isn't a single variable, but are controlled by a wide variety of uh different things that are going on within food systems. I mean, the reason that food systems and drink systems are so interesting, other than the fact that they're delicious and we eat them every day, is that there's such a richness to be encountered with a very small number of ingredients, starting ingredients. And so, you know, it's very hard to get uh uh a set of metrics. It's actually going to work as well as looking at it with your eyes, feeling it with your hands, and tasting it with your mouth, because in the end, right, that is all we really care about, right? I mean, the the the repeatability, the metrics, the thermometers, all which I all love.
+
+[37:23] I love I said, because I love any gadget. Anyone knows me loves a I love any gadget. But the, you know, like all of that is only an aid uh to trying to uh you know get get to the best instrument of all, which is your tongue and your nose and your eyes. Uh so that's my my feeling. On the other hand, I'm gonna go out and get a refractometer that I can measure my coffee with.
+
+[37:45] Right? Mm-hmm. Anyway. Um so I think in the time that we have left, I will discuss uh uh alkal alkalinity and uh some interesting things I think that we've been working on. Last week, uh someone asked a question about Myard reactions, and I somehow got into a riff on Thai uh lime water, right?
+
+[38:04] Remember that? Yeah. And uh so uh I read this website uh by uh it's called She Simmers, she's a uh blog, and she had a uh you know a bunch of stuff on Thai cooking. I think her her f she is Thai or her family is Thai, and uh they use this uh limestone water, which is slaked lime, calcium hydroxide, and they do numerous things. I've used it for years to harden bananas up when I'm gonna you know make a foster or something like that, so that the bananas get a cooked taste but they don't break up.
+
+[38:30] Apparently, it can also be used for pumpkins. Uh but she uses it, and apparently it's traditionally to be used in frying batters as well. And I was extremely interested in uh in that because she says it makes it crispier now. Uh in a rice in a rice flour situation. Uh we have tested that and I haven't we haven't gotten any conclusive answers, right, Nastasha?
+
+[38:52] Right, yeah. I mean Nastasha preferred the one with the with the lime water in it because she likes the flavor of the lime water, which is reminiscent of pretzels or reminiscent of a tortilla, because it's got this calcium hydroxide, this lye kind of flavor that Nastasha really liked. But it didn't seem like it was any crispier. No. And it also didn't seem like it browned any faster.
+
+[39:13] I was thinking it was going to brown a lot faster because alkalinity accelerates myard reactions. Right. Well, yeah, we have to run all those again. Yeah, we have to again and again and again and again. Uh you know, because of that question on myard reactions, I'm now in like a probably a five-month K-hole of worried about alkalinity and noodles and um, you know, and batters and frying.
+
+[39:33] Because it turns out that that this lie, you know, the use of alkaline cooking methods is goes across uh kind of you know, the world and culture was was used in various places completely separately from each other. So when I started reading about this Thai red lime paste and it came to my you know attention that it's basically just calcium hydroxide, well, calcium hydroxide is cal, right? Is what the what is used in um you know, you know, south of the border here, uh Mexico and Central America uh to and you know, I guess South America to uh nixdomilize corn, right? And so uh nyxtamalization is the reason why everybody who lived here isn't dead, right? Because uh it you know, w if your main staple is corn, right, uh and you don't know how to nyxtamalize, which is also the best word in the English language, right?
+
+[40:28] It's not even English, but this is the best nixtimalization. That's like a that's an awesome word, am I right? Yeah. So if you if you don't uh uh and the way nixtimalization works is you take calcium hydroxide, you you put uh that in water with dried corn, uh you heat it for a while, and then you let it steep. And what happens is from a functional standpoint, uh it makes it easier to mill and to grind because it in uh back in the day they would be grinding uh the corn after it was uh you know boiled and soaked on something called uh matate mano, which is like this like stone thing with like uh the mono is like a square thing, and they would grind it that way directly from the corn grains into the masa that you would make the tortilla out of or whatever you were grinding it to make tamales or whatever.
+
+[41:14] And uh, and so I'm buying one by the way today. Yeah, anyway, going to Nastasha's neighborhood to buy one. Anyway, uh so the basically it was easier for them to mill. It also the alkalinity uh softened the husk on the outside of the of the corn and also thereby making it easier to mill. But uh the the process of boiling and soaking in uh in alkaline solution, because calcium hydroxide is alkaline, did two other things uh uh well, one more functional thing.
+
+[41:43] It made the dough easier to work. If you don't, if you just take cornmeal and mix it with water, it doesn't have the right texture uh of uh masa, right? Uh partially the boiling pre uh pre gelatinizes the starch a little bit, and so that helps the uh the dough stick together, provides some structure that it doesn't, it would, you know, you because there's no gluten, you need some structure in the dough. And so pre-gelatinizing some of the starch on the outside of the corn kernel in the beginning of the boiling procedure uh helps to do that. And also treating it with uh the the um alkaline solution, the calcium hydroxide, uh that also causes the starch to be able to hold the hold more water, right?
+
+[42:21] And so it inc improves the dough uh capability. So it holds more water, it's gonna feel drier for a particular uh for particular water concentration, and it all all in all makes the dough easier to handle, uh easier to form into uh into tortilla. And so without nictimalization, there is no real tortilla production, right? But here is the kicker. It also makes niacin available in the corn that was not available beforehand.
+
+[42:48] So you get a bunch of Europeans showing up and they ship the corn over to Europe and they grow it, right? And it was cheap and easy to grow, so they grow it and they start eating a largely corn-based diet, and they all get pillagra because they're not getting the niacin because the dunces don't look and see that you know there's this procedure that's been done for you know millennia, literally millennia, right, of nixtimalization. They don't think that's important. They think that they can just take the the crank uh the grain crop, corn, and build a whole culture around it without doing the nyxtimalization, and as a result we get pallagra. So this is a process, it also has another effect is that in it in a culture that was probably deficient in milk at the time prior to the domestication of uh milk-producing animals, to go back to Max's question, uh the calcium hydroxide also radically increases the amount of calcium that's uh in the tortilla because the calcium goes into the corn.
+
+[43:42] And so all of a sudden now you have a lot more calcium available to the system, you have a uh a lot easier problem uh thing to work with as a dough, and you have uh and you have niacin. So it's good, it's all good. Now, I became interested in this uh because I'm interested in all things uh like that. And so we started nixtimalizing things based, you know, based on the fact that we're playing around with it, using Thai red lime paste. I'm now uh we're gonna tomorrow or the day after, we're gonna tour tort uh tortilleria nixtamal, which is like the only place in New York that uses its own uh um makes its own nixta mal.
+
+[44:16] I'm getting a matate because I did some nixtimalization of popcorn, which is weak. Don't try to do it with popcorn, it's not the right kind of corn. I've read on the internet that it w it works fine, it does not work fine, it doesn't I mean it works fine, but it doesn't mill very well. And without the stone grinder, the the metate mano, I over the weekend when I was making uh tortilla for you know my family for for Sunday dinner, I blew out my Vitaprep like three times. I blew out my cuisin art.
+
+[44:40] It was a kinghell mess, and I still didn't get the texture exactly right. So today when I pick up the official Mexican grinder, I'll tell you whether or not, you know, next week hopefully whether or not it works. But I'm also interested in nixtimalizing other grains other than corn for just for for giggles, right? So what you know, we've done barley, we've done uh rye, and we've done wheat, and I've had some success and some failure, and we'll come back on it. But uh basically we made something that was made with rye that had it had a rye flavor, which Nastasha doesn't like unfortunately because she doesn't like things that are delicious, and but also the flavor of uh tortilla, right?
+
+[45:18] So the a lot of the tortilla flavor, what what differentiates it from just you know, uh uh corn meal cake is that lye cooking has a characteristic flavor, right? And so next time you bite into a tortilla. Think about the difference between that and unnyxtimalized corn and that flavor. And so I was achieving that flavor in other grains. Uh now we haven't yet done the control side by side of whether just boiling it for the same length of time without using the lime is going to produce the same kind of batter.
+
+[45:44] But this is what we're working on in uh in cooking issues. We want to bring nixtimalization to the next level. We're new uh like usual, we're not content with just learning, which we're gonna do on Thursday from the people, real people who do it every day. So that you know it's always best to go visit someone who does it every day so that you can get a feel for what it's like to do it right. I mean, it sure beats the you know four hundred pages of nixtimalization crap I read in the scientific literature that I downloaded off of my illegal connection to Columbia's uh servers.
+
+[46:15] But the um the you know uh nothing beats going and touching the real stuff, eating it, tasting it. I will have practiced with my matate mano by the time we make it to it. And next week, this time, you I mean, I won't be a master. Also, I'm not gonna use a tortilla press because it seems to me like that's like a sissy move. I need to learn to be like a a Mexican grandma.
+
+[46:36] My goal in life, other than you know, like doing a good job on this raw food thing that we're gonna do, you know, is I, you know, and this is a longtime life goal is to become a uh a Mexican grandma. So that means I need I already have a mocojete in my house, the little stone grinder, which I've had for years, and you know, the little like you know, mortar pestle. Uh I've had one of those for, you know, I don't know, 10 years, 12 years. So now when I get this grinder, I'm one step closer. And when I can form tortillas effortlessly by hand without a press, I am and but then I have to learn Spanish.
+
+[47:07] And if I once I learn Spanish, I will officially be a Mexican grandma. Uh and uh with that, I will tell you to go. We have a new post up to go check it out. It's uh on pears. Uh Nastasha and I did a great pear tasting, and I finally posted on it months later because I'm a lazy weasel.
+
+[47:23] Cooking issues. Ficious fish is back.
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+[0:00] The following episode of Cooking Issues has been brought to you by TechServe. This January, responsibly dispose of all your old electronics at one of ten e-waste recycling events held across four boroughs of New York City, hosted by TechServe and the Lower East Side Ecology Center. Computers, printers, monitors, and lots of other electronics are being accepted for safe and proper recycling. Visit TechServe.com slash recycling for more information and drop off location details. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network coming to you live every Tuesday from 12 to 1245.
+
+[0:46] I am uh I'm Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues. You can call in all of your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718 497 2128. Most of the time we take technical questions, but we'll we'll take any question. Today actually, uh Nastasha is not in the studio with me.
+
+[1:04] She is live from where the heck does your family live, Nastasha? Near Pasadena in California, Southern California. So not not even in Pasadena, like near Pasadena? Yeah, a very small town. Uh anyway, so Nastasha's uh got up early in the morning, gathered all your questions, and is uh joining us across the country live.
+
+[1:22] So how's it going over there, Nastasha? How's the weather? Good, it's good. It's raining. Do you miss me yet?
+
+[1:31] Wow. Wow. Okay. So um now yes, of course of course we always miss you when you go, Nastasha. Okay.
+
+[1:39] Just just messing around. All right. So we have uh quite a bunch of questions to get to today, so let's start out. Uh Steve, okay, I'm gonna try to pronounce his name. Mignonia.
+
+[1:48] What do you think, Nastasha? You speak Italian. Steve Mignonia. I think it's a good one. I think that's fine, yeah.
+
+[1:53] Yeah, that's good. I just got a thermal circulator. Congratulations. Uh and for those of you that don't know, that's what allows us to do most of our low temperature cooking because it keeps uh water temperatures very accurate. Great for the restaurant, great for dinner parties, great for cooking for your family.
+
+[1:59] I use it all the time. I have two. Nastasha has none. If Philip Preston from Polyscience is listening, Nastasha Lopez would be great uh marketing tool for to for you to give a circulator to, just saying, maybe for Christmas. Maybe for Christmas, I'm just saying.
+
+[2:22] Uh it's not too late, you know. Uh I just got a thermal circulator and I'll be using it to cook short ribs for my family for the holidays. Also a good idea. I do not have a lot of time this week to experiment with cooking temps and times, and I want some advice on which to use. Uh my father, who's a big skeptic of any uh new cooking technique, I'm with you, Steve.
+
+[2:39] I know what that's like. Uh, we'll be making short ribs the old-fashioned way. Uh so we are going to have a short rib cook-off. Um Steve's seen different uh techniques between 55 degrees Celsius and 60 degrees Celsius, anywhere from 24 hours to 72 hours. Steve's leaning towards 58 degrees Celsius uh for 60 to 72 hours.
+
+[3:00] You're not gonna need to go that long. But anyway, I'll get it at it in a second. Uh Steve's ideal finished product would be a medium rare short rib that is fork tender. He's not looking to replicate prime rib or fillet texture, which is good because they shouldn't be the same. Uh but would rather have a more fork tender falling apart meat.
+
+[3:15] Any thoughts? He says he knows that I recommend 60 degrees Celsius for 48 hours, which is 140 for all you Fahrenheit heads out there. But uh, what's the final result with those numbers? Thank you. Okay, now uh a lot to lot to talk about here, and uh unfortunately we're gonna get into some technical minutiae for all of you uh people who are gonna space out on this.
+
+[3:33] But look, here's the deal. Uh here's here's the good news and the bad news. I would not pit a low temp short rib side by side against uh a regular short rib because I think they're different. And if someone's shooting for a a good old fashioned stick to your rib short rib, the old fashioned short rib's gonna have kind of a beefier taste. It's also gonna have more of a pull apart texture.
+
+[3:58] The low temp short rib is uh and Nastasha, you know this. Uh yeah, the the the the sh the low temp uh short rib is gonna it is it's gonna be soft and tender, but it is gonna slice more like a steak, right? Right, Nastasha? Mm-hmm. Yes.
+
+[4:11] Yeah. And and it's not gonna be rip apart like a uh like a like a regular short rib. But if you want something, I wouldn't go 58 degrees. 58 degrees is it's pretty rare. Um I think people want a little bit of a medier taste, they want it a little more cooked, but slightly pink on the inside.
+
+[4:28] I mean, you could go as low as 57, which is about 135 Fahrenheit, uh, and then you're in the kind of the the medium that's in the medium rare zone, but people aren't really expecting a short rib there. Um so uh what I would do is I would serve it entirely differently from the way your dad um serves his short rib. I wouldn't try to replicate, I would just recognize that they're two s entirely different products and um and serve it a uh accordingly. I mean, I wouldn't like shred it up and serve it over a pile of uh like some kind of a starch product. What I mean, Nastasha, you've eaten a lot of these things.
+
+[5:02] I mean, and from someone who's doesn't come at it uh from the same perspective I do, what do you think about the traditional versus the the the low temp? I haven't I actually haven't had a lot of traditional short ribs. I mean, whatever short ribs I've had have been at home, and well, we all know how that is. Yes, yes, nastasha's family can overcook even short ribs, apparently. Um but so uh in other words, I wouldn't try to pit them against one another, although it it's admirable.
+
+[5:28] I have done it many times, and um the the traditional short rib is gonna have a more traditional short rib texture. It's gonna be beefier because it's gonna be cooked at a higher temperature, but it's also gonna be the meat fibers themselves are gonna be overcooked. I would choose 60 degrees uh and uh because Nastash, you like the 60 better than the 57, right? Yes. Yeah, I would do 60, and I would do it um if you at 60 degrees, if you cook it for 24 hours, it will have the texture of skirt steak.
+
+[5:55] Uh at 48 hours, it will be uh a a firmer but still tender um short rib. At 72 hours, it will be to my taste too mushy. It'll have lost too much of its texture. So I would go in between 48 and 72. I would say somewhere in the range of like 56 hours at 60 would be a good number.
+
+[6:15] Uh I would sear the meat both, I would sear it quickly, uh, put a crust on it beforehand. The key to this technique is over-reducing your sauce before you put it in the bag. You must over-reduce your sauce. If you it has to be like almost gloppy, because what's gonna happen is you're gonna bag it with the sauce, the meat's gonna give up its own juices into the bag and water down the sauce. It's gonna taste like pot of four, like a boiled beef, which is not what you're looking for.
+
+[6:38] So you want to over reduce the sauce. Uh a couple hours before you serve it. I would then uh after it's done cooking, I would let it chill down. Don't chill it right away, or the meat's not gonna absorb a lot of the juices again. I would put it on the counter for about 20 minutes.
+
+[6:51] Then you could put it in uh water for about regular tap water for about 20 minutes, although that's an extra step. It does make it taste better, according to Bruno Gusseau and according to our independent taste tests afterwards. Then you can ice it down. I would then uh open the bag uh s you know several hours before you're done ready to cook, scrape out the sauce that's rendered, warm it on the stove, correct the taste and temperature of it. It will uh likely need to be defatted.
+
+[7:14] It will most certainly need acidity, uh, might need seasoning correction. Put it back into a Ziploc bag with the short rib. Don't let it, you know, uh me, sorry, first then sear the sort ri short rib real quickly from cold, right? To put a little extra crust because it's gonna look green and kind of weird. Throw it back into the bag and then re-therm it at like 55, 57 for up to four hours.
+
+[7:37] But you could probably uh like two or three hours, it'll reabsorb some of the new sauce that you've put in that's gonna be thick and juicy and delicious, and that is going to be a bang up delicious short rib, but it won't be the same thing as a traditional short rib. Any any comments, Nastasha on this? No, that's good. And then let it he should let us know what his family thinks of his and his dad. Yeah, well, here's the thing.
+
+[7:58] I mean, like, it's like anything else. The low temp short ribs, it's not there's some things that are just better, right? That I mean, that's the case. There's some techniques that are just better, uh, and then there are techniques that are just different. A traditional short rib is different from a low temperature short rib.
+
+[8:12] A traditional short rib, you're basically almost boiling out the meat, the fibers themselves are horrendously overcooked, and then you render the the collagen into gelatin, the gelatin plus the delicious braising sauce. By the way, the braising sauce is then reinforced with that gelatin, right? So so you get an incredibly uncuous uh sauce. Um, and and that's what makes the deliciousness of a short rib. But those short ribs can't be sliced, those short ribs don't have the same texture as a low temperature short rib.
+
+[8:37] Low temperature short ribs aren't as uncuous because you don't render out the gelatin. The gel the collagen breaks down, but when you slice into a low temp short rib, you'll see that the collagen hasn't rendered out. You can still see where the collagen was. It's just become soft. So that stuff doesn't render out into the sauce and doesn't give that incredibly uncuous texture to the sauce.
+
+[8:55] It also doesn't individually moisten each fiber of meat the way it does in uh in a traditional braise. Furthermore, in a low temp, because you can see it slices the fat, doesn't render out, so you're gonna have to slice off some of the fat. So it's all a question of what you're looking for. If you want something that you can slice into a beautiful presentation, is incredibly tender, but not the same as a traditional short rib, and you realize you're gonna have to make up for some of the stuff you're gonna lose, incredible beefy flavor. I would put some cooked uh rendered meat into your sauce beforehand.
+
+[9:23] Don't just rely on the on the short ribs themselves to provide that beefiness because they won't be there because you're not using a high temperature technique. So I would just try to keep in mind the benefits and disadvantages of each technique. Realize that they are just different techniques. And does it have to be a competition? You know, ask your dad, Steve.
+
+[9:39] Does it really have to be a competition? Anyway, uh happy collars. I guess. Someone just emailed me and said that that they can't get through. I don't know.
+
+[9:49] Is that true? Jack, what do you know about this? Jack, our our trusty engineer. We're we're short staffed today in the uh in the in the radio station. I see nothing.
+
+[9:57] Huh. Huh? Did I give the right number? Anyway, call if you can hear me, caller, try back again at uh 718. What is it, Jack?
+
+[10:04] 718? 7184972128. Yeah, Nastasha, maybe tell them to try again. Yeah, because John Stewart. I hope it's the John Stewart.
+
+[10:14] Oh, well, that would be amazing, but uh I I assume not. Um so um, well, John, if you are listening to me, you are the John Stewart. Anyway, uh see, Nastasha is so bad with customer service, I swear. I swear, you gotta learn. Never learn.
+
+[10:28] Okay. Oh, we have John on the line. All right. Hi, John. How are you doing?
+
+[10:33] Hunter. Hey. Question for me? Yes, sir. Uh, so yeah, I just want to say uh big fan.
+
+[10:41] I've just discovered you guys uh month or so ago and have now listened to all of your uh backlog, and it's it's really really fun. So um you guys have inspired me to uh build my own immersion circulator. Nice and get some spherification supplies. Uh so I've been doing that the past week or so here. So I'm experimenting with both of those, um, and I hope to use both of them in a uh New Year's Eve dinner that I host every year.
+
+[11:05] How many people um uh it's gonna be twelve to fourteen. Okay, good. That's a good number to start with the circulator. Okay, yeah. So I mean last year I did a so I guess there's three questions I have about that.
+
+[11:17] So last year I did a beef tenderloin, uh, you know, just traditional cooking. It was good. Uh tenderloin's a crowd pleaser. Um and I guess you know, sous vide is appropriate because I can you know control the temp, internal temp very well. But uh I'm wondering if there's something I guess my question is what do you think is the m protein that is most improved by Sous V cooking?
+
+[11:40] Um I wonder if I should be more ambitious than just a tenderloin. That's an excellent question. Uh and strangely one I haven't really thought of. So let's just break it apart between sous vide and and the low temperature, right? Because most proteins can be done well.
+
+[11:56] Uh, you know, when I say well, I mean properly, uh low temp and to to good effect, depending on what you're shooting for. Some proteins I don't like very much in uh in sous vide in a vacuum bag because I find that affects their texture. Chicken most notably and and certain fish. But are you gonna be ziplocking or are you gonna be doing vacuum? Just Ziploc.
+
+[12:16] I don't have a vacuum device. I use by the way, I use Ziploc at home. That's what I use. Um I'm assuming that your circulator is gonna be able to do like about a degree or so. I mean, are you gonna P I D control it?
+
+[12:27] So it's gonna be at the end of the year. It should be accurate within you know tenth of degree, really. Couple tenths. All right, good. Okay.
+
+[12:28] So uh and as long as you have good circulation, it'll be accurate across the bath. Okay, fine. So you you can do pretty much anything you want. Um here's the good the good news about uh tenderloin is that uh it's fairly easy. You want to go super low temp on a tenderloin.
+
+[12:48] We're talking like 55, 54, like as low, low, right? And and I wouldn't cook the tenderloin whole. I would cook it in uh I would pre-slice it out, uh sear and put it in the ziplocks and get it ready to go. Here's the main problem with the tenderloin, and one of the great things I love about cooking steaks uh in low temp, because that that's by the way, like in fact I might do this soon. It's one of my favorite like dinner party things because it's gonna be really easy for you to do.
+
+[13:11] Like you're gonna be a rock star, and it's also gonna be easy, right? Uh I prefer a big thick uh rib steak, like thick, you know. And so and so uh and the the bad news about the tenderloin is if you do it, if it cooks much more than about 40, like 45 is ideal. If it cooks much longer, like an hour and a half or so, because there's no connective tissue in the tenderloin, it's gonna start to feel kind of fibery. So for someone who's not used to it or is used to overcook tenderloin in general, they'll think it's fine.
+
+[13:38] But you you know, you probably won't think it's as good um as as it could be. I mean, you can do a bang up job on the tenderloin, but it's just you know, you have to be careful not to cook it too long. I mean, one of the great tenderloin applications, low temp, is uh the beef wellington, where you can cook the whole tenderloin like you know, for a short period of time all the way through, then wrap it in a puff and then hit it really hard in the oven so that you don't overcook the meat because it's already cooked, you don't need to worry about it. It's you know, technique we call low temperature for insurance purposes. But if you go if instead of going tenderloin, if you go rib steak and then and I like to serve the rib steak, you know, what I'll do is I'll I'll buy like a standing rib roast for a party, then I'll slice it into steaks.
+
+[14:17] Right. I'll uh you know, usually I'll take the bone off, maybe render that to make some meaty stuff. Then take the steaks, cut them real thick. Then uh I sear them, and I actually sear them a lot longer than I normally talk about to put a put a heavy crust on them because I make them so thick that you're not really losing that much meat by doing it, and it really gives a nice kind of crust and meaty flavor on the outside. You know, salt and pepper the heck out of them.
+
+[14:38] Then I throw them in a bag with butter. I throw garlic in. Some people don't don't like that, but then I use the butter afterwards to make garlic bread so that I have a no waste situation, right? Then uh then the the advantage of a rib steak as opposed to a tenderloin is a rib steak can cook for you know like a minimum for a real thick steak of uh you know an hour and a half or so, but up to like four, five, five, six hours, your window is a lot longer and you're not gonna have um you know, so people don't sit down or if or if something happens, you're not working right at the edge, and you're not worried about the texture going bad on you, right? And then about an hour before service or so, I would turn the bath down to uh fifty-two.
+
+[15:16] I mean, don't say I said so, but fifty Celsius, so that the whole whole temperature of the steak drops down a little bit so that when you put a real monster sear on the outside, when you take it out, you could put a really good crust on it without d uh raising the internal temperatures too much on the uh on the center of the meat. Then, you know, you just you know, and you can do that steak by stake. So you could so for a party you could if you have like you know four steaks that you're serving out, you know, really thick ones, you could do two, slice them down, send them out, and you know, then do the next, you know, then you know, take a five minute break, do the next two while you sear off the next two and and bring them out. And it's uh, you know, that's the way I run my dinner parties. Nastash, you've been to my house for steak, right?
+
+[15:56] Yeah, uh no, not for steak, but I've had the steak that you're talking about before. Yeah. The one where I drop it. Well, yeah, you made it. I we did it at the school and you made it.
+
+[16:03] I mean, that's that's a it's a crazy, it's a crazy awesome way to have a dinner party, right, Nastasha? Yeah, it's delicious. Yeah. So I mean, I would do that over over tenderloin. I mean, at these the it used to be, and this is like, you know, and uh it's not me being misogynist, I'm just like, this is what I used to hear, right?
+
+[16:17] That the ladies they like the tenderloin. And uh but I think nowadays, you know, I think uh you know, even people who used to go on those old you know, sex sex based stereotypes, which I never buy into, but you know, that go on it, I think everyone realizes now that a dude a dude thinks it's like mucho sexy for a woman to tear into a uh a rib steak. Am I right about this? Yes. Yeah.
+
+[16:40] It's like it's like it's like it's become kind of chic for women to order like uh, you know, a uh a neat scotch at a bar because it's a sign that you know you that you that you're a butt kicker. Am I wrong about this? I agree. Yeah. Anyway.
+
+[16:52] Is this helpful at all by the way for your dinner party? No, that's a great, great suggestion. So what temperature you'd so you say 50 C to like finish it off, but what about the you know, few hours cooking beforehand? What temp would you use there? Uh okay, so I would do my personal some people I know like to do as low as uh some people cook really low, which I don't, but like fifty-five to fifty-six in that range.
+
+[17:15] Okay. Like so a good like middle ground is like fifty-five point two or fifty-five point five. If you have a chance to practice on one rib steak before you do it, so you can get a feel for what for what it's like. Um that at fifty five five, it won't be squashy at all in the center, especially if you cook it uh long enough, it will be good. Um 56 sometimes is a little too tight for people.
+
+[17:38] Um, you know, for especially for rare heads, it's a little too tight. But like 55 5, the squeamish people, if they look at it, they might say that it's underdone, but once they eat it, they're gonna like it. And and uh and the the rare heads aren't gonna be uh it's a good compromise, right? Especially if you put a you drop it so that the temperature goes lower and you put a good hard sear on it, no one's if their eyes are closed, no one's gonna quibble with the texture. Uh it's just a question of uh how it looks.
+
+[18:02] Uh and then of course, um, you know, even though I make fun of uh you know a lot of Nastasha is partial to any kind of Italian any kind of italian, it doesn't matter what it is, if it's Italian, it's good. So, you know, so I'm gonna bust on her all the time about it. Anyway, so but that said, when I do steak at home, I go Italian style and I drizzle some delicious olive oil over it, um, and you know, some crunchy wallin salt, and I've never had a complaint. Sounds delicious. Um, great.
+
+[18:32] So uh that's very helpful. I appreciate it. Um so the other question is about uh then spherification. Um so one thing I want to try to do is sort of a deconstructed bellini. So I'd like to uh do like a reverse spherification of peach and then drop that in prosecco, right?
+
+[18:48] Um so I'm you know, I'm obviously very new to this. Um what I've found online basically is that the idea is I'll put some calcium lactate in the peach puree. Right. Get calcium lactate gluconate. Don't get just straight lactate, get calcium lactate gluconate, because it has no taste.
+
+[19:04] Calcium lactate still has some taste. Okay, so that was my third question, then is what is the difference between lactate and lactate gluconate? Okay. Um okay, so then uh so then I'll basically then freeze it. Uh so the ratio was about two point five percent, I think, for the calcium lactate glucanate.
+
+[19:22] Yeah. Two to two and a half, somewhere in there. That's good. You have to warm the peach puree to get it to dissolve properly. Okay.
+
+[19:31] Not hot. You don't have to make it hot, but you should warm it. I mean sometimes you don't need to, but you just want to be sure, you know. Okay. And then just drop that into a sodium alginate bath at uh point five percent is I think what I found.
+
+[19:42] It depends on your alginate. If you have a really strong alginate, then point five would probably work. If you have a weak alginate, uh then you might have to go as high as point eight, point nine. It all depends on your alginate. I'd try a couple different um a couple different ratios.
+
+[19:56] Also, how long you let it sit in the alginate bath, the the skin is gonna keep growing on it. What I would do uh if you you know you if you can make them beforehand, you put them in the alginate bath, you let them sit for however long, depends on your alginate and whatnot. Fish it out carefully, don't let them touch each other. They'll glue they'll glue to each other. Okay.
+
+[20:16] Then you're gonna want to rinse it off in uh water and to get the excess alginate off of it, and then you can put it into a calcium bath briefly just to make sure everything's set up. Uh now you can let them thaw in the calcium bath. You can let them thaw in peach puree. Uh you can let them thaw inside of uh your champagne flute if you want. But what you can't do is let it thaw in uh you can't leave it in the alginate too long, and you can't let it thaw and stay in a regular straight uh water bath or calcium bath because the the the sugar and the flavor and the color are gonna leach out over time.
+
+[20:52] So through the shell. Yeah. Yeah, it's per it's water, it's water, you know, it's it's it's semi-porous, so you're gonna leak the stuff out. It becomes like a membrane and and you have osmosis across that membrane, and you tend to lose color and flavor and sugar and acidity. Like and doesn't take that long.
+
+[21:08] So I mean you don't worry about it when you're making it, but I'm saying don't store it for hours and hours in a water bath. You can store it directly in your calcium-based peach puree, right? Which is always good. Or um you can uh let them finish thawing in your champagne flute. The only the the good news about letting it thaw in the champagne flute is it's easy to get in without breaking.
+
+[21:28] The bad news is is that if you have a broken one, you're not gonna know until you pour the champagne in. So, you know, it turns out you can never win. You know? Do you ever notice this? Yeah.
+
+[21:38] Um, and then how long, I mean, when you prep prep something like that and then put it in the the peach puree, like leave it sit in the peach puree. Um, how long is it good in that situation? I mean, how long ahead can I make these? Long time. I mean, uh, you know, I've I've never done it with the big ones to kept them a long time because I just do them for like an event or for the classes, but you know, we've I've had uh reverse um reverse spherification uh maple syrup balls that we've kept for Nastasha.
+
+[22:04] How long have we kept those things? Like a week? Uh yeah. Yeah. Like a week.
+
+[22:08] As long as it's isotonic, right? If you're storing it in the same stuff it's made out of and there's some calcium there, then you'll you'll be you'll be okay until the stuff goes bad. Okay. Yeah. We gotta take a break.
+
+[22:21] Great. Oh, yeah, we're going to our go into our first commercial break. Thanks for your call in and good luck. Let us know how it works out. Thank you very much.
+
+[22:27] Appreciate it. Appreciate it. All right. How you feel, brother? Feeling good.
+
+[22:31] You feel good? So much bone, brother. How you feel, mate? I'll feel all right. How you feel, bellow?
+
+[22:41] Yeah, yeah! We're gonna have a bunk good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time.
+
+[22:59] Let's take them up, Brad. We've gotta take you high. Alright. You wanna do it again? Yeah, that's the wrong thing.
+
+[23:18] We gotta take the high Brother. Yeah. Now I won't have about it. Let Brad blow up my two corpses. And then I wanna wave you and let's go into it with now.
+
+[23:35] Alright. I'm gonna get that fella with a low horn over there. Brad, get it take us high. Welcome back to Cooking Issues. Call in all your questions to 718-497-2128.
+
+[23:50] That's 718-497-2128. Coming to you live for another segment or two. And by the way, uh Heritage Radio Network is on hiatus. Hey Nastasha, you get to use the word hiatus. You like that?
+
+[24:03] Uh we're on hiatus next week. Uh, and we'll be coming back to you, I guess that means in uh in the new year. So this is uh this is our holiday edition. Yeah? Yeah, how said that earlier.
+
+[24:15] Uh it goes to show what I know. I was busy. I'm building a new computer at home and my head's been stuck in the sand. Uh sand is the polite word. Anyway, uh well, we're talking about low temperature cooking.
+
+[24:25] Uh, and again, if this is the first time you've ever heard me rant on about it, low temperature cooking doesn't mean that you're cooking something too a low temperature. It doesn't mean raw. And you know, raw raw cooking we're gonna get into next year. Nastash, we have to set a date. We have to set a date for our raw cooking extravaganza.
+
+[24:40] Our week of raw. Is that what we is it already set? The last week of January? We don't have anything to do, and I think it's I think it's a good time. We have no other events?
+
+[24:49] No. All right, people. People, last week of January is cooking issues, raw food week extravaganza, not just raw, by the way, because I can't stand to be called a sissy in public. Uh well, it's not true. I I let I let it slide all the time, but not when it comes to food.
+
+[25:07] So, you know, you can call me a physical coward, you know, you can call me like a relationship sissy. That's fine. But food sissy, no love. Anyway, so uh uh, you know, anyway. So we're gonna we're gonna do the raw food challenge the last week of January.
+
+[25:21] I've already purchased with my own uh my own money, an excalibur dehydrator because all the schools were stolen. We're sourcing a champion juicer. Uh I am you know, but I'm gonna go on this for a second before I answer the next question. Unless the caller calls in, I'll take them right away because that's service for you. Uh the uh uh so here's some things, Nastasha.
+
+[25:41] We have to think I w Nastasha and I have read now what, like like eight, nine raw food cookbooks. Yeah. Yeah. No, don't no, don't get no be nice. Well, I'm not gonna go post apocalyptic.
+
+[25:54] In fact, you can't cook raw food in a post-apocalyptic situation because you won't have your vita prep, you won't have your your uh you know your dehydrator, your champion juicer, all that. The question is can we at the cooking issues team, can we bring some stuff, some some stuff to the table that other raw food people haven't brought to the table yet? Yes, right? First of all, I'm gonna rotovap some stuff. I'm gonna make some hyper low temperature reductions.
+
+[26:19] Now, I might get called a sissy here because it's not gonna be useful for all the raw food people out there because they can't do that. But we can do distillations at low temperature, we can do fruit reductions, things like that, well below the 118 marks. So we're definitely going to do some of that, right? Um I'm also interested in using a uh trying to find some good recipes for the uh Santho, the wet grinder that they use for dolls, see whether we can't get some new interesting recipes using the wet grinder uh from a from a raw food perspective. And I'm also uh I'm gonna use a a bunch of enzymes.
+
+[26:51] I mean a bunch of now, because it right, Nastasha, there's nothing wrong with using a commercially available enzyme prep. I mean, enzyme is the whole dealy, right? I mean, why can't we use enzymes? Now, if I if I can get a hold of straight transglutaminase that doesn't have any maltodextrin in it, it's been heated, and it doesn't have any uh any uh casein, any milk casein. I don't see why we can't use some uh transglutaminase to glue some uh raw proteins together.
+
+[27:15] I mean it might be fun, right? So these are these are the kinds of things I'm I'm thinking about um for our raw food extravaganza, which we've now publicly announced so that we're not welching, is gonna be the last week in January. Which means we have to start cooking now. You know all those raw food recipes. There's all the all the all the raw food recipes are you know, stick some almonds in water and you know, wait eight years and you'll be able to eat.
+
+[27:37] You know, if you you know that like the cooking instructions are so bananas and all these things because it just takes so dang long uh to do. Anyway, we will do it, and uh we're gonna do a good job. And it won't be any yes, we're gonna do a good job. Okay. Kurt writes in my Queas and Arch slow cooker seems to hold a fairly constant 165 degrees uh Fahrenheit, 74 degrees Celsius when on the warm setting.
+
+[27:59] Is this temperature useful for any low temperature cooking applications, or is it simply too hot? Kurt, I am sorry. It is simply too hot. Um it's good for traditional cooks um and and uh and braises. You know something you could do in it that is uh going to be good is uh for instance if you want to do a duck confie, but you don't want to have to worry about it, right?
+
+[28:23] You can uh put into a bag uh and even uh uh listen, the uh the John S. C. Johnson wax, a family corporation, you guys familiar with these people? They make the Ziploc bags. Uh they're gonna they will they will write in and call me a bad human being if I say you can do this because their bags can't take boiling temperatures.
+
+[28:42] Polyethylene in them can't take boiling temperatures. But if in fact your thing doesn't go above 74, it should be able to handle this okay. If you take uh duck leg and even just a couple extra tablespoons of fat, and you you salt cure it uh with uh like thyme and uh herbs and whatnot for you know the recommended procedure, like overnight, uh, you know, a day or so, and then put it in that Ziploc bag, you can put it in your slow cooker and leave it for like uh you know several hours, uh, and you can make a very good duck confie that way without having to have a lot of fat. So it's really good to do stuff like that uh in in a similar vein. Any traditional braise like that, uh, or any conf fee, I should say, not a traditional braise, but any confie uh is great in that something like that because I actually prefer the high higher temperatures, the more traditional temperatures, but I like to be able to do it without having to have boatloads of fat around just because it gets uh expensive and messy, and then you need to cool it in the fat, which is a pain in the butt.
+
+[29:40] And so I think it's uh it's a really good technique, but just don't tell the SC Johnson wax people on me. Um what do you think, Nastasha? Yeah? Yeah, no, that's good. That's good to know for me because that's all I have here at home.
+
+[29:52] Yeah. Alright. Well, uh, I will say that uh when I use a circulator, nine uh out of ten times my circulators, unless I'm doing creme en glaze or a test for like vegetables at a higher temp, or like we're working on nictimalization, unless I'm doing something kind of special like that. Uh my circulator is set at uh below below six below sixty-three, really, most of the time, below sixty-two. In fact, at sixty or below ninety percent of the time.
+
+[30:20] Uh, you know, I'll do m most of my steak work in the the 55 range in there, duck at like 57, uh, and then uh chicken at 60 uh 3 to 65. That's what I should have said 65. So that range is where where I am, never really above that, um, unless I'm doing creme en glaze or something special. But it's really great for confie, and there ain't much more delicious than confit. Um let me see.
+
+[30:48] Michael writes in and says, Hello, Nastasha, here's a question for Dave. Uh hi, Michael. Uh, how can I make my own fizzing tablet like Alka Seltzer or Airborne? Obviously, I'd like to be able to give it an intense flavor and have whatever mineral salt is used in the tablet base not be too overpowering. I think the main thing I'm not sure about is how to bind the powder into a tablet, thanks, Michael.
+
+[31:07] Okay. There are two uh ways to well, I'm sure there's a billion ways to make tablets, right? Uh like the easiest way isn't going to work for you, which is you put the ingredients into a gum paste and then like uh cut them or or you know, push them into tablet shapes and let them dry out. This is gonna give you a texture similar to an altoid, right? But not kind of a hard shiny tablet.
+
+[31:29] Uh the next easiest way, uh, and that won't work for the this because uh if when you I don't think that if there's any liquid, when you combine that, the way you make a fizzy tablet is you combine an acid, typically some mixture of citric, malloc, uh tartaric acids, right? And uh I guess you could do lactic or something like that, but typically it's either citric malic, tartaric or a blend, uh, with a base, uh typically something like baking soda like sodium um sodium bicarbonate, although some people use uh I think uh potassium bicarbonate or uh you know other mixtures of of bicarbs, right? And when they combine in liquid in your mouth, they uh they they fizz, right? And this is the same thing that happens when you make a volcano when you're a kid when you add vinegar to baking soda and you get this volcano that spew up, right? Now, uh, how are you gonna get these in into a tablet?
+
+[32:21] That's the question. Okay. The easiest way, not very satisfying, but the easiest way is to buy empty gel caps. Uh and you can get those. I know Whole Foods sells them.
+
+[32:32] Uh they're basically the Whole Foods doesn't sell the gelatin ones, they sell like a carrageenin-based one, but GNC or any of these places where there's kind of people making their own pills all the time, or you can get them on the internets. Um you get gel caps, and you can fill the gel caps, push them together to form capsules, and they'll melt fairly quickly on the tongue and if you let it sit there and go acid. But I I get a feeling this is not what you want it what you want to do. What you want is something called a tablet press. Okay.
+
+[32:59] And the way a tablet press works is you take a bunch of uh ingredients and binders, they use like dextrose powder, uh probably some uh malt sometimes some maltodextrin, whatever your flavoring is, and uh maybe some oil-based agents, I'm not sure. Uh, but they mix it all up and then they put it into uh a uh two-sided press, and then a press comes down and bang, smashes it into a capsule form. And if you're really rich, you you can write your name in it and stuff like that. Now, uh these presses, they're not they're not cheap, right? They they have manual versions of them.
+
+[33:31] I looked on eBay this morning and there's someone it's uh called a tablet press. There's someone selling a hand one for fifty bucks that I think you put the ingredients into a little cylinder and you screw it down, uh almost like you're screwing down like a jack, and it it smooshes a tablet and then opens up and you have it bang, you have a tablet. I don't know how fast those are. What I used to do leather work back in the day when I was a a leather worker with my wife making uh bags uh long time ago. Um I had something called a kick press that I used to use to do uh or you know, uh to make st put snaps into things and grommets, and they have all different dyes.
+
+[34:05] Uh that would probably be the next level up. I don't know if they provide enough force to make a tablet, but I didn't really I didn't really research it long enough. Uh all the you know the big the big machines they use uh like a hydraulic power and you press it and they squish it down, but now you're talking like a a several thousand dollar problem instead of a fifty dollar problem, or for the kick press, if you buy it used if it if it is the same kind of press that you use to do snaps and grommet work, you're talking like uh, you know, a hundred dollar, uh hundred and fifty dollar problem, something like that. Uh, but that's how you make uh the tablets. Um the trick is making sure that you don't have an excess of base.
+
+[34:40] It's usually okay to have an excess of acid because we like acidity in our in our tablets. It's not okay to have an excess of base. In fact, you need an excess of acid. If you don't, it's it's uh it's uh not gonna have any uh acidity to it. You will have a salty aftertaste uh that you know that comes along with uh the acid in the base mixing and producing a salt.
+
+[35:00] So I would choose a salt that you like the flavor of uh usually sodium salts. I think taste better than the potassium salts. Nastasha hates the potassium salts. Yes, they do. Yes, yes, she does, and she tells me all the time.
+
+[35:13] Anyway, uh, so uh is that is that helpful, you think, Nastasha? No. I think that's helpful. Let's take uh one last break. All right, we're gonna go to a commercial break.
+
+[35:21] Call in all your questions to 718-497-2128. 718-497-2128 cooking issues. Oh, how you feel, brother? Feeling good. You feel good?
+
+[35:32] So much bone, brother. How do you feel, mate? I'll feel all right. I don't want all people to know you're in here. How you feel, fella?
+
+[35:42] Sure didn't dump. We're gonna have a bunk good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time.
+
+[36:03] Don't take them up, Brad. We're gonna take high. All right. Yeah, let's go all the time. Brother!
+
+[36:27] Yeah. Now I won't have a body. Welcome back to the holiday edition of Cooking Issues. Call in all of your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128.
+
+[36:41] We'll probably maybe extend it a little bit, Nastasha. Go another 15 minutes. So if you can make it to Nastasha's door outside of Pasadena in the next 15 minutes, you can ask her a question in person. Just kidding. Please don't, please don't do that.
+
+[36:52] Please don't do that. Please don't. Uh yeah, her mom her mom will probably, you know, uh put some buckshot into you. Yeah. Okay.
+
+[37:01] William called uh called in. He couldn't get the live feed, so he sent an email in. Uh and he said, Dave mentioned lab sales where you can find old rotovaps. It's a rotary evaporator, uh circulator, which is, you know, we've been talking about a lot today, uh, that you can find pretty cheap and just need to clean up and maybe fix a few fuses on. I try my Google Kung Fu for auctions or sales in the NYC area, haven't found anything.
+
+[37:20] Do you have any resources I could check out to find these kinds of sales? I've never uh gone to a um a live uh lab sale. Um I get m uh n all basically of my lab equipment off of eBay uh and just base it on um on finding either occasionally someone will uh like flood the market. That happened with rotovaps a couple times, and actually recently the the market on on eBay was flooded with rotovaps, uh so the price went down, but it's it's starting to go back up again. Um there's centrifuges and things like that.
+
+[37:53] LabX is another website, LabX is another place that a lot of lab people go to get uh lab equipment. Um the live auctions that I go to are mainly restaurant auctions. There's not a lot of labs in New York that go out of business. There's a lot of restaurants that go out of business or change owners or for whatever reason have auctions. So all the live auctions that I've gone to in the New York area have been either laboratory uh sorry, uh restaurant auctions, or I used to go to New Jersey and Brooklyn a lot for machine shop auctions back in the day uh when I was in the art biz.
+
+[38:24] And uh I used to do that a lot. And those I always found in the um, you know, in the New York Times, in the uh used to be at the back of the help wanted ads. I don't know if it is anymore, but uh, if you've never been to a restaurant auction, it's something to behold. It's a crazy, it's a crazy situation, especially if you need 8,000 uh pans that they've been beat to hell for like a nickel apiece. Uh which, you know, or uh my deep fryer, I bought one of those things for like, you know, uh 50 bucks.
+
+[38:44] And yeah, they're crazy. I mean, you can get some crazy deals at those, but I've never been to a lab uh one. Uh now uh eBay, uh eBay, the way to go. And just look for if you can fix things, look for things that aren't not working, but that you feel that you can troubleshoot based on the description. You have to take chances.
+
+[39:07] I've had things that I couldn't fix. It's rare, but I've had things that I couldn't fix for a reasonable uh amount of money. Um but you know that's basically what I do. I take my chances on eBay. It's a lot better if you can go to a live auction and kick the tires.
+
+[39:20] For that, you you you can look in the back of the New York Times, and they will have like major lab auctions that show up that you can go to live, but they're not usually in the New York City area. They're like they're around. Uh but you know, Eli Lilly did that a while ago, and there are people who who uh who deal with that. Um hope that's helpful. Didn't sound so helpful, but I didn't feel very helpful.
+
+[39:40] Was all right. Didn't feel helpful. Okay. Uh Teddy Davico writes in. Hey Teddy, how you doing?
+
+[39:48] Uh he's uh asked some questions before. Uh recently watched Wiley. That would be Wiley Dufrain, uh, my brother-in-law, friend of the blog. Uh Wiley's Meat Gloomania presentation for Harvard's food science class. That's the class that for on uh Adria is uh heading up at Harvard.
+
+[40:01] Uh we have had a lot of good friends speak there. I think uh uh you know McGee spoke in there, uh Wiley, Dave Chang, uh bunch of them didn't ask us, right, Nastasha? Didn't ask us. Not us. No.
+
+[40:12] No, no, no, no. It's you know we know why? We're chumps. Why? Chumps.
+
+[40:16] We're chumps. Low quality, yeah. Low quality, we're low quality people. Uh this sparked an idea. I think it would be possible to make hot ice cream using an ice cream base, transglutaminase YG, which is the yogurt uh transglutaminase.
+
+[40:28] Transglutaminase binds proteins together, including milk proteins, so it makes yogurt so it weeps less and holds together better. Methylcellulose and gel and gum, do you think this would work? I should be receiving my act uh sample of Activa soon. Thank you. Uh no, I don't think it will work.
+
+[40:42] Uh uh but you know, I look here's the deal. Hot ice cream is one of those things that people have been trying to make for for you know years and years and years and years. Uh the first hot ice cream uh uh attempts were made by a physicist named Nicholas Curti uh you know who is kind of uh one of the one of the people in the 60s who really started uh 70s started really popularizing uh you know science in the kitchen he was you know he knew McGee he was one of the original people in the molecular gastronomy conferences in Ariche uh and he wanted to make hot ice cream for a long time it didn't work out for him uh Wiley Dufrein uh took it on for uh a long time as something he wanted to do was working on it a lot back in the year uh I think like two thousand two thousand one in there uh and not able to do it um I've had uh other like bloggers and people's and who shall remain nameless their recipes for hot ice cream and uh none of them taste like uh ice cream um I mean the the problem with ice cream so the the the theory is I can make that I can make something that has uh the texture of a melted ice cream right so that's the gel end so you're making a fluid gel that holds its shape even when it's uh even when it's you know uh either caught or cold doesn't matter and has the texture of like a nice ice cream base can you do that? Yes. Uh can you take a methyl cell and make it uh firm up when you heat it?
+
+[42:05] Yes, right? And that's what all the hot ice cream recipes are based on some form of methyl cell that melts when it puts in your mouth and gets cooler, right? But uh but i none of them have uh the the texture is ice cream, none of them are as hard as ice cream, they don't have the bite of ice cream. Like ice cream is like a chilling effect in the mouth. It's just nothing I've had approximates what the the what you want in your head is something that that provides that the feeling of ice cream, but is somehow reversed from hot to cold from cold to hot.
+
+[42:36] And I've never and I've tasted a bunch of people's different recipes for it, and I've never had something that provided an experience that I thought was satisfying. Uh it just it just I think it's one of those it's like the it's like the philosopher's stone of uh of uh new cooking techniques. Every like everyone's had their hand uh you know, tried to make it, and you know, just like you can't turn lead to gold, I don't think you can make a uh hot ice cream. I can't think of a good bet to make on it, like we did on the raw foods. But uh I in other words, I would want to have it.
+
+[43:10] Like I hope someone could make it, because I think it would be really fun. But I've not had one so far that I thought was totally successful. Wiley made one, he said he can get the texture of soft servo okay, but not like a not like the hard ice cream. It's uh that that's even like the super holy grail is the hard ice cream. So I w I hope you have success.
+
+[43:30] If you call the different recipes on the internet, there are several uh for hot ice cream. Uh and I want you to have success. It's just I'm I'm dubious. Uh I am dubious as to whether or not you will be able to achieve it. What do you Nastasha?
+
+[43:44] Am I being too I'm not being hard, I'm not being hard, I'm just this is you know I mean I think the cool I don't I'm uh not really sure what you're talking about, but I think your brûlate ice cream is really good. Yeah, but that's different. That's a cold ice cream. Yeah, I know, but I I I can't even like register hot ice cream in my head. Right.
+
+[44:03] Well imagine something that's exactly the opposite of ice cream. It's like ice cream in Bizarro World, you know? It's like it's like it's it's it's hard when it's hot, and then when you put it in your mouth, it cools off because it's you know you're cooler than it, and then it melts in your mouth instead of you heating it to melt it. It's like every it's like everything bizarro. But uh, and I know many people who've tried to do it, it's just I've never had one that I thought, man, that's ice cream only hot.
+
+[44:28] You know? The brûleed ice cream is good, but it's it's still it's you know, it's ice cream, it's cold in the center. But Teddy, I want you to work on this problem. This is the the y you're you're traveling a good line of thought traveled by many, you know, very um very smart and very good people before you, so maybe you can succeed where where they they have not. I hope so.
+
+[44:49] Uh because that would be that would be fun. So tell us tell us what kind of results you have uh with it. Michael Nakin writes in uh and hello, uh he says, hello. Uh he has tapioca maltodextrin, which I've used for the usual tricks of turning various fats into soils and powders. By the way, uh Michael, remember don't call it uh just tapioca maltodextrin.
+
+[45:09] The one that turns oils into powders is ensorbit uh tapioca maltodextrin from the National Starch Corporation, right? Not all tapioca maltodextrins will will turn uh fats uh into powders. In fact, uh almost none will, except for enzorbit, uh because of its particular structure, it's a bulking agent. Okay. That's why it's so so light.
+
+[45:29] Um so uh in the fat duck cookbook, Michael uh continues, Heston Blumenthal talks about Maltodextrin DE19, which he says is a low sweetness sugar that he uses to make savory ice creams. Are these the same or closely related products? Can I use my tapioca maltodexra in this kind of application? And would either of them be useful in making a low sweetness vegetarian, savory marshmallow. Okay.
+
+[45:53] Uh here are my two cents on that. Uh they're they're not not equivalent, okay. Um dextrins are so basically you take a starch. It could be tapioca, could be rice, could be, you know, anything, corn, could be whatever. And you have a starch, which is basically a length of repeating glucose chains, uh glucose uh units, right?
+
+[46:13] And you break it down into smaller things. So uh the smallest thing you can break them up into is is sugars, right? Uh, you know, glucose and glucose syrups. And then uh slightly longer, like you know, like eight, you know, eight, eight glucose units long, you have seven glucose units long. These are called maltodextrins, right?
+
+[46:32] And they can either be not sweet if the chain is fairly long. The longer a glucose chain is, the less sweet it is, right? So the longer chain maltodextrins aren't sweet at all, really. And so the endsorbit brand tapioca maltodextrin is uh not sweet at all. Uh, but it doesn't really act like sugar the same same way.
+
+[46:50] The shorter chain ones can start tasting sweet to you, right? So DE19 means that uh it has that that powder has the uh I think this has been a long time, but it's basically 19% as sweet as sugar per unit weight, right? Uh and and it's composed therefore for of fairly short glucose uh unit, you know, chains of glucose, right? Anything much higher than that, and you're dealing with like a glucose syrup, which are also not that sweet compared to sugar. You're talking on the order of like a fifth of the uh sweetness of sugar.
+
+[47:22] Uh and so you can use them for things like savory ice creams, which we do all the time at the school, we make a uh we make an ice cream uh that uh, you know, one of Nils's old recipes that is uh goat cheese ice cream, where we use glucose syrup, which has a s a slightly higher DE, i.e. slightly more sweet than uh than the the um multidextrin you're talking about, which is D of 19, we're like DE 20, D E in the low 20s range. Uh and we make like basically save not savory but not sweet ice creams with that. I don't know how useful they'd be for making a marshmallow because I don't know exactly how close the properties are to sugar, and sugar is not it's not only like a texture, it's a structural component in your in your uh marshmallows. So I would tend to think that you'd be better off using something like an isomalt.
+
+[48:04] Isomalt is half the sweetness of sugar, but cooks a lot like sugar. So for a marshmallow, I would go ahead and use something like isomalt. The uh the problem if you if if you uh if you use too much isomol, and I love isomalt, but if you use too much isomalt, like if someone eats like eight bags of isomalt uh um uh marshmallows, they're gonna get the poops. Because you don't digest it the same way necessarily, so like some of it goes as fiber, and so you can get you can get the poops from it. Uh anyway, so I'm told.
+
+[48:34] I've never gotten the poops from too much isomalt, but I got a cast on your stomach. I should feed some to Nastasha because you know, it if anyone says they're gonna have a problem with it, Nastasha will say she's gonna have a problem with it. Am I right about this? That's right. Yeah?
+
+[48:47] Yeah. Yeah. Anyway, so uh yeah, well, I had something else on that. Something else on sugar. Oh, I once tried to make uh savory marshmallows with this product called LyTess, which is a modified sugar product that has zero sweetness, but I don't even know if that stuff's on the market anymore.
+
+[49:03] I didn't have much success with it. It always uh absorbed too much water out of the air, and they got too they got too weepy. See, Michael's taking on a double-edged problem. First, he's got to get the good uh vegetarian marshmallow, which means you have to get the right carrageenan product to mix with it. Then to take it the next step and want to make it savory, then you gotta get the right kind of savory product.
+
+[49:21] I would definitely start with uh I would definitely start with uh with isomol. Definitely, definitely. Uh yeah, right, right, Nestor yes, no, yes. Okay. Yes.
+
+[49:31] Alright, so uh we Come on, Dave. Come on, Dave. What you have the goose question or you can answer that? Oh, the goose question. What was the goose question?
+
+[49:37] Did I get that one? Yeah. Number five. Give me the goose question. Other other than deep frying, this is from uh Adam.
+
+[49:45] Right. Other than deep frying, what would you suggest for cooking Christmas goose for the first time? My mother never let us have it because she thinks it's too greasy. I want to show her that she's wrong. Ha, goose.
+
+[49:54] It's an interesting problem. I have cooked goose uh several times. Uh it's sometimes hard to get like a meaty goose, and so it seems greasy or it seems tough because it's not, you know. I would goose. I mean, the question is, does you know, does he have a circulator?
+
+[50:11] We don't know. We don't know if he has a circulator. I mean goose goose would be great in a circulator and then crisped up in a really, really hot oven. Dang, cook a goose. I would do goose to try and render out if you if you're worried about greasiness.
+
+[50:23] I would try to render out as much of the fat. Now this is totally just off the top of my head, by the way. So, you know, take this with uh, you know, a box of salt instead of just a single grain. But uh I would um I would maybe do something like you do with a picking duck almost, where you you know, you kind of separate the skin away, uh, then you you know put the hot uh liquid over it, and then you allow it to air dry a little bit, and then I think you, you know, uh like with a fan, and then you could probably render out a good bit of the uh of the fat um and make it not so greasy. So I would tr I would I would treat it if you don't have a circulator, I would treat it as if it were a baking duck.
+
+[50:59] If I had a circulator I would break off the legs and then by the way Booker my my oldest son is started every five minutes he comes to me he's like I thought chickens made meat I didn't know you had to break the head off of a chicken to get chicken meat and then I'm like yes you have to break the head off a chicken to get chicken meat and he goes do you break the heads off of chickens I'm like no I mean I I I I would if I had to I mean I think it's you know kind of an obligation but he's like well why why not? I was like well you know we buy it from a butcher but it's he it's like so brutal he's like break the head off a chicken that's what he says break the head off of a turkey. That's like that's his imagery is that somehow you walk up to it it's alive and you break its head off which I guess not that far from the truth but it's just you know hearing an eight year old use terms like break the head off of anyway uh so uh if I had a circulator I'd break the legs off the tur off the goose and then uh cook them separately because they're gonna want to be uh at a higher temperature and cook for a long time to break it down whereas the breast meat's gonna get dry and overcooked if you if you let it go that long. So I would break it down uh do the breast low temp I would do it at probably 57 or 58 for about 45 minutes uh cool it down sear off the skin to crisp it up and then uh do the legs almost probably confit style uh but that's that's me but deep frying obviously a great alternative because deep frying is God's cooking technique. Uh uh what do you think?
+
+[52:16] Yes or no? Okay. So uh this I guess will be the last cooking issues of uh this year of 2010. We're gonna come back in 2011 a little bit of a uh an announcement Nils is uh Nils, the uh intrepid leader of the uh French culinary culinary program, is uh he's not leaving the the FCI, but he is uh changing his roles. He's stepping down from that role, he's going more on a consultant basis.
+
+[52:43] And so uh he came to us and I think we're gonna he's gonna be probably off the cooking issues mastead, he said, right? Because he's moving moving on doing other things. Is that what he said to us, Nastasha? Yeah. So that's that's big big news.
+
+[52:57] But uh, you know, he got put in uh in eater and various other blogs, uh kind of incorrect information uh about the the whole situation. Nils is just wanted to do some other stuff and is very is very, you know, time consuming, busy job running the culinary program at the French Culinary, especially because we're expanding and doing doing a lot of other things. And uh I think he just wanted to uh cook cook more and run schools less, right? Yes, that's a good way of putting it, yeah. Yeah.
+
+[53:26] Uh as as should anyone who likes to cook. They should be wanting to cook more. Uh and so that is all of our uh New Year's resolutions from here at Cooking Issues. Uh Cook More, and we'll catch you in the new year. Thanks for listening.
+
+[53:40] Happy holidays. Vicious Vicious. Oh, you dead.
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+[0:00] Nine times out of ten when someone is taking the time to break away and do their own thing, it's because they either have a specific point of view or a specific passion that really sort of speaks to maybe not a mass audience, but the customers that I have and their customers at Barterhouse tries to culture and and cultivate, I think are are are those type of people who want that story and feel like if they take a an allocation of an 80 case made wine that they've got something special and it's something that only they have or maybe one other person has. So that's kind of what we specialize in. And you know, it may not be business savvy to the nth degree, like we're not making a hundred thousand cases of Pinot Grigio and you know, flogging them all over New York, but the customers that get wine from us are kind of believing the same stuff we do, which is supporting these small farms, supporting these young winemakers who have a passion for doing it, and and we supply them with a market and we allow them to get their product out there to otherwise an untapped uh group of people. Oh, you daddy got me on the Happy New Year and welcome to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network coming to you Tuesdays from around 12, I guess, to 1245. Uh it's Dave Arnold, the host of Cooking Issues here with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez.
+
+[1:33] Uh ready to oh, nice, nice. They have new features in the radio today. It's awesome. I love that. That's for the new year.
+
+[1:39] For all you people listening, those are the new year sound effects. Uh calling all your questions too, 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 for all your cooking-related questions, technical or not. And uh Jack, I hear we have a caller. Hello, caller, you're on the air.
+
+[1:56] Hey, how are you guys doing? I'm a big fan of the show. Thank you. I have a question about um using whipped cream chargers for uh rapid infusions. Right.
+
+[2:06] Um I was wondering if it could be used to infuse um and make flavored vinegars. Yeah, I don't see why not. Yeah. I've never tried it, but I don't see why not. We've done oils before.
+
+[2:17] Uh-huh. You know, so just you know, for quickly for people who don't know uh what we're talking about. Rapid infusion is a technique where uh we take uh nitrous oxide cartridges usually in uh these I ISI these whipped cream makers, so you can look them up under cream siphons or whatever on the or whippers on the on the internet. Some people use them to get high. We don't, I don't particularly enjoy the nitrous high.
+
+[2:39] And uh they under pressure basically force liquid into porous items, then you rapidly release the pressure, the liquid boils out, and uh and you and you flavor your liquid. And so the question, and we I normally do it with liquor, but the question is can you do it with vinegar? And I don't see why not. Have you tried it yet? I haven't tried.
+
+[2:56] I'm waiting on uh on my whipper to get here. I just ordered it through a friend of mine in a restaurant, so I'm trying to get it the cheap way through him. Right. Here here's some some guidelines. Uh the whenever I do uh water-based, and essentially I don't think that the vinegar is going to enhance the uh solubility too much of most of what you're working with.
+
+[3:15] I don't think it's gonna hinder it, but I don't think it's gonna help it. So my in general, when I do water-based work, you're gonna have to use uh probably a little bit more of the product, and then you're probably gonna have to let it sit a little a little bit longer. Every ingredient that you use has different uh kind of optimum infusion time. And so, you know, for chocolate, I find it's somewhere like a minute and a half or so. Uh I mean it all depends on on the on the product.
+
+[3:38] Some people I know do coffee for you know many minutes up to hours. Some people I know even overnight on something like coffee, uh, you know, cold. Um and so you're gonna have to play with your your amounts and how long you leave it uh leave it in. But I would definitely do it longer than any of the stuff quoted on the blog for liquor. And I would also, you know, take heed of uh the comments that people said that you know you're gonna want to wait, you know, uh, you know, s many several minutes after you uh vent it for the flavor to fully develop because I think that really is I don't know why, but I I really think it's a real real phenomenon.
+
+[4:14] Okay, cool. Could I ask one more quick question? Sure. Uh what about using them to um with cucumbers inside of it to kind of make a quick pickle in the charger? Do you think that would work?
+
+[4:25] It does. It doesn't work as well as a vacuum does. Uh at least I don't think. I mean, I haven't done I mean I tested it once, it works, but you know, I I I think uh do you have a vacuum machine or no? I do not, no.
+
+[4:38] All right, well then it's probably gonna be one of the better things you can uh you can do. Another way to do those kind of uh you know flash infusions, and we call them quick pickles too, but you have to be careful because when you're when you're pickling, you're actually kind of doing an exchange of fluids, and with it with all of these rapid infusion techniques, you're basically you're not exchanging any any fluids, right? You're just injecting fluids into what used to be air holes. So you're gonna you're gonna need a fairly strong uh flavor base to do it. And you're also gonna need um you're gonna you know not think of them as being preserved in any way.
+
+[5:09] And they're also things like cucumbers tend to get floppy because you inject it right away, and there hasn't been time for osmosis to kind of uh start up and for the the actual cucumber cells to leach out their uh their liquid because you're gonna put something in that's high in in salt, let's say, and uh or sugar or both, and they the liquid is gonna start migrating out of the uh out of the cells of the cucumber and it's gonna start getting uh floppy. So for like really crunchy, crisp results, you're not gonna want to let the stuff sit around a while. And it will work. Uh if uh if you're gonna do it that way though, I would say rather than use it the way that we say, I would make it cold so that uh it doesn't bubble out as much when you're when you're when you're uh releasing it, because the goal is to keep liquid in and not to have it kind of bubble out, if that makes sense. Oh yeah, absolutely.
+
+[5:54] Okay, well thanks. I'll post up on the blog with the vinegars if they work out well and let you guys know. No, cool, yeah. I hope so. I hope it works out for you.
+
+[6:00] Thanks for calling in. Thank you. So uh on a non-cooking related note, uh uh I we just spent the last uh ten minutes brushing muck off of my uh off of my weed. Well, yeah, anyway. It turns out that uh, you know, here in New York City we had uh some snow, not a lot really by normal standards, but for some reason like they decided not to plow it.
+
+[6:21] And Manhattan, they totally cleaned out. So I was like, oh, it's safe to take my bike that I shattered the rear fender on just before Christmas and haven't had time to fix because I'm lazy and stupid. And so then I rode across, and of course, as soon as they get over the bridge in Brooklyn, it's like it's like mucky snow mo snowmobiling on my bike, and so like my entire backside is sprayed with muck. That has nothing to do with anything. Okay, uh on to onto real cooking issues questions.
+
+[6:45] Uh by the way, uh we had some people ask us how our how our holiday we were both Christmas folks, so how is our Christmas and New Year's? Excellent. Yours, Nastasha? It was good. Yeah?
+
+[6:54] Mm-hmm. Not excellent? Not it was good. Good? Yes.
+
+[6:58] Oh, all right. Okay. Then uh with that, I will get right to the questions. Uh so uh a while back, Thanksgiving time, we had a uh a question from uh a listener who asked why he wasn't dead, because his mom used to basically take cookie uh t cookies, turkeys and salt them and put them uh out to in the in the kind of the back porch uh to kind of cure for a couple days, you know, not under refrigeration. And the question is why why not why not death?
+
+[7:24] Why didn't death ensue? And um, you know, I think it it has a lot to do with kind of the air drying effect that happened on it and the the salt levels and the herbs and XYZ, all these things kind of um you know go to s stop kind of bacteria from growing on the outside, which is where most of it's gonna grow because the inside's sterile, yada yada. Go back and listen to the podcast for the gory details. But um we had someone uh write in, uh Mark Rosenblatt, uh also from uh Brooklyn says that his mom used to do that uh in Long Island, but not with turkeys, did it with uh ducks, uh and would uh do the same thing with duck. Uh and so I will I will relate, uh I will relate what he says.
+
+[7:59] Uh he said um he grew up in Riverhead in eastern Long Island in the fifties and uh duck farms were plentiful, so his his mom would cook the ducks instead of turkey and fully prepare two or three ducks two days beforehand and left them to cure outside uh and uh wonder why they never got got sick. Uh her technique was if she would put whole cloves of garlic inside, which are anti antimicrobial, uh rub the but I don't I would never trust it to be antimicrobial, but it is. Uh rub the exteriors of the duck with a thick mixture of olive oil and crushed garlic. Of course that's actually like poison waiting to have could be poison where you have them from a botulism standpoint, but probably not. Uh you know anyway.
+
+[8:34] I mean like you know that garlic oil is one of the m it's it's like a dangerous can be a dangerous thing. Anyway, uh then coated the entire bird and a blanket of coarse uh coarse kosher salt, uh thereby stopping any botulism from happening, and wrapping the duck in wet newspaper, uh and um you know, because he used to deliver newspapers. And so the the newspaper would dry out and his brother once ate the newspaper and got really sick. And so his question is, is uh with the newspaper, the wet newspaper which does dry out, would that somehow kind of be a host for the bacteria and stop it from growing on the duck? I don't think so because you never want any sort of any kind of host for bacteria if you can help it growing next to something that that you're gonna eat.
+
+[9:10] Like there's no there's no beneficial protection from the newspaper. Uh I wonder whether or not the sickness was because of some sort of poison in the ink, like lead or some sort of crazy nonsense in in the ink. I don't know. I mean it's it's an interesting question, but I definitely wouldn't eat the newspaper uh in the future. But the newspaper, even if it's wet, if it's placed against a lot of kosher salt, you shouldn't get too much bacterial growth on it.
+
+[9:31] I think the salt is really what's uh by the way, these ducks were rinsed very thoroughly after they were uh after they were um cured before they were cooked. I shouldn't think that the newspaper would help, but it is interesting that your brother got sick. I wonder whether you know who knows? Poison maybe what do you think? But it's if he knew if it was a GI situation, it was a GI, but very interesting.
+
+[9:49] Thank you for writing in. Uh okay. Now, a question about venison. Um, hope you had a good holidays. We did.
+
+[9:56] Uh this is from Andy. He says uh he was lucky enough to to take down a deer. Uh we're a bow hunter, and he took down a deer this year, uh, and he's elbows deep, he says in venison, and he's psyched about it. He patched together a circulator, DIY circulator. The circulator, you know, is what we use to cook things at very uh accurately precise temperatures, usually in a water bath, but sometimes in fat or oil.
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+[10:15] And uh he wants to do a boneless venison loin as his first big meal out of it. And then are there any differences in the time uh temperature or timing for this as opposed to beef? Uh and he's thinking about 55 degrees Celsius for about an hour or a little longer. Any thoughts? Uh Andy, uh, I think that sounds about right.
+
+[10:30] Uh that's just about the right temperature. Uh, even uh even a s a shade lower, like 54 5 or something like that for a tenderloin, usually in beef. I should think the venison would be about the same. They the trick with venison in general is I don't know how old uh the animal you got was, but if there's any sort of tendency to a livery taste in the meat at all, um, which there shouldn't be in the loin, but you know, in other cuts of the venison, you're definitely gonna not want to cook it for uh too too long, or those livery notes can be accentuated. Sometimes, like when we cooked yak for a long time, uh those livery kind of notes, gamey notes actually kind of I think worked with the with the uh you know with the meat, uh, but I don't know that you necessarily want that in the venison.
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+[11:08] Um the only other question is is that some meats can feel tender, uh, but then you know, e when you cook them, they're tough even at these low low temperatures. But I should think that uh uh venison loin isn't gonna be that tough. I would cook a small piece of it uh at fifty-five for an hour and see whether you like it. I wouldn't go much longer because if it does cook like beef, which I'm assuming it it probably will, uh, then it's gonna start getting kind of fibery after that and won't be as good. But please write in and tell us how it is, and I'm curious to hear how your homemade uh circulator uh works out.
+
+[11:40] Okay. Um we had a uh another question. Uh this is an anonymous question. Uh he said, why does an egg that we stored in a mason jar with white truffles not coddle properly? The yolk was cooked perfectly, but the white didn't set up at all.
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+[11:54] The egg was not very old. If anything was only around a week old. Jeez, I've no, I never heard of that this. I've done a uh I did a preliminary uh you know web search uh, you know, and scientific literature search. I couldn't find any sort of active principle in um in you know truffles that would stop an egg white from setting.
+
+[12:11] My only theory is that is it was it was it stored at room temperature, which would accelerate the breakdown of the uh of the white to a thin white and make it so it doesn't set as nicely in a cotton preparation. But other than that, I can't see why uh a white wouldn't set, whereas the yolk would, because typically the you know, typically the uh the white would set much earlier, white would set start setting uh in and around 60 degrees Celsius at 140 uh and be you know basically custardy nice set at around 62 degrees Celsius, uh, you know, and then the egg wouldn't start setting the yolk wouldn't start setting up until uh you know, it would be runny at 62 and would start setting up at 63 get creamy and then get um you know get really firm uh around 65 or so. Now uh you know uh there's there's so many recipes for truffled uh omelets that I I'm I'm curious it's gotta be some sort of weird something going on. Like was the mason jar at room temperature? I can't think of anything.
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+[13:05] I can't think of anything. Anyway, uh, but I'll I will definitely ask around, and if any of our readers have heard anything, please uh please tell us. The other interesting point that uh this anonymous caller brings up is that uh they cook Udon noodles at salad for a brunch uh and uh they toss it in uh Meyer lemon vinaigrette. They had some left over, and so they decided to dehydrate it and then puff it. And they notice that the ones that have been soaking in vinegar uh seem to puff more than the normal ones that had just been cooked and uh and and you know blanched and left out and tried.
+
+[13:32] And um, so is there any question uh why would they puff bigger with the acid? And I have no idea actually. Uh it's interesting. I did a preliminary research on that, and I couldn't find anything specifically with acid and puffing, but uh it might be possible that there's some sort of effect. I mean, acid obviously weakens gluten, but I don't know if it's gonna weaken gluten in products that have already been cooked or not.
+
+[13:52] So if you if you somehow are weakening the gluten structure and the and the udon hadn't been completely overcooked, because remember when I puff anything, I overcook the bee Jesus out of it. So perhaps there's some sort of weakening there, and perhaps then it only works on wheat versus uh on wheat based uh noodles versus, for instance, puffing uh like a tapioca starch or something like that. That would be the that would be the kicker. If you did a test and you said, okay, look, I'm gonna do a buckwheat noodle. Of course that has you're gonna put wheat in that too.
+
+[14:17] If I'm gonna do like tapioca or some other kind of noodle and puff it with an acid and see whether that also works. Then if if it also puffs more with an acid in that situation, then obviously it's not the gluten. But uh I hope this anonymous uh reader will uh give us some more information because I'd like to I'd like to experiment on this more. But I love observations like this. Maybe we'll learn maybe we'll all learn something, right?
+
+[14:36] Yeah. Uh here we have a caller. Hello, caller, you're on the air. Hi, Dave. This is Colin Gord down in DC.
+
+[14:43] I called in a couple weeks ago asking about uh, you know, possibly using some pectonics to clear up some sweet potato Yes. And we talked about that because we ran some tests. I couldn't get it to work, even with a centrifuge. Did you get it to work? Um, so I got basically I've been toying with it.
+
+[15:02] I have never uh like I've seen a lot of interesting things that you know it weren't wasn't what I was going for, but now I'm calling in to like maybe get some tips on where to go from here. Alright, so what so what was your experience? So what is that? What yeah, what'd you do? Tell me what you did.
+
+[15:19] Alright, so what I did was I mean, first thing I did was ran just the sweet potatoes through uh my room they had a champion juicer, so that was perfect. Uh you know, I've I I had never juiced anything that was like a tuber before, but it was uh or you know, so I wasn't expecting a whole lot because they're not like nice and juicy, seeming like an apple, but still got like maybe sixty percent yield. That's pretty good. Pretty pretty sweet. It's pretty good.
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+[15:46] So at least compared to what I was expecting, right? And then um so once you have the juice, uh, you know, I had it in a glass jar. I saw and you could see that there was a lot of starch settling out. Right. You get like a white starchy powder at the b at the bottom.
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+[16:02] Well the funny thing is you get like a white starchy powder and then stuff that is kind of like acts like starch, but is also more like orange, like the potato. Right, like the mixed layer. The cells were still kind of adhered to some stuff I don't know. Right. Uh I I know what you're talking about.
+
+[16:20] We had the same thing happen. Then what'd you do? Then all right. Then first time I just hit it with some additional amylase, some additional uh beta. Whatever you get from a brewery supply?
+
+[16:35] Yeah, from the home like at home brew stores, they sell a little bit of a little bit of a little bit of a big I think they're mixes. I think they're actually mixes of alpha and beta amylase, but I'm not sure. I'm not sure. I'd have to look it up. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
+
+[16:44] And then I don't have my no I don't have my notes in front of me, but but then I you know, put it in, sealed it up in a mason jar, put it in a circulator bath to a kind of lower lower mashing temperature to try to convert a lot of the starches over to sugars, because it was going for like a sugary syrup to uh simmer down into a caramel. Right. Right. And uh how much of the starch did he did you agitate it? Um no, I left it sick, so I wanted the starch to settle out to the bottom so I could kind of decamp the stuff off.
+
+[17:17] Right, but the amylase if you agitate it would actually help break down some of the starch, no? Although maybe not if it's locked. Yeah, that would be that'd be a good plan, yeah. I mean, like what I would do like before we go further, because I want to hear the rest of it, uh what I would do in the f the next test, I would cook the starch out a little bit, then cool it, then add the amylase because then you could burst it and you're 'cause the amylase might have if you have intact cells in there, the amylase is gonna have trouble getting to the uh getting to the starch maybe, unless it's been cooked out a little bit. Yeah.
+
+[17:43] Maybe go ahead. What kind of temperature range would you say for uh that first step? Ooh, I don't know. I'd have to go look at my you know, a good book is the uh eag like for starches in general and pasting and all that is uh and all this is Egan Egan Press has a book on starches. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[18:00] I mean they're great, they're a great series of books that all of those uh Yeah, yeah, I got the Hydrocolors one a while back. Yeah, their starch book's pretty good. Their starch books good, their nutritive sweetener books pretty good. Um and you can get 'em all for ninety-nine bucks online, actually, uh, if they still run that deal. It's hard to find, but you can get 'em all.
+
+[18:15] So yeah, so then what'd you do? You you settled it out and then uh that did what what would what the stuff tastes like. Well, well, so actually the interesting thing was uh, you know, I had left it to mash out for a good long time just to you know, kind of uh I mean, partially 'cause I didn't come back for a day, and unfortunately what had what had happened is the water bath had evaporated below the temperature probe. So it ended up just boiling the hell out of that shit. First rule, first rule, first rule of running a circulator, folks, out there in in internet land, is always, always cover your circulator so that you don't especially on a long cookout to not evaporate all your liquid off.
+
+[18:59] It's a classic, classic uh problem. Yes. Well the good news is is that you'll never do that again. Oh yeah. Yeah, I'm just glad I cut it in time before I burn, you know, burn out the heating coil or anything.
+
+[19:11] But but but but the magic thing is that uh it looks like this boiling, this like boiling step at the end has caused the kind of sugary syrupy water to separate out in a way that I have not been able to replicate since. Oh yeah. Uh yeah. So I I I figured it what it was just sort of setting the starches and sort of at the bottom there. Uh and yeah, that was the only time that I was able to get a very nice kind of uh translucent caramel out of it.
+
+[19:47] Okay, this is very interesting to me. Uh the you gotta try to replicate it. I had the same thing happen once. The worst thing in the world is when you're cooking and you do something wrong and you don't and you d ha don't aren't able to like you know replicate it and you love the result. This has happened to me I made a durian caramel by accident in a pressure cooker that was incredible, like had no sulfur note, tasted like durian, but wasn't offensive to like the most mild western noses.
+
+[20:14] Oh awesome, rich, not burnt, and we went through probably fifteen fifteen durian trying to get that back, and we've never been able to do it. So I wish you better luck with the you def well, we should try so we'll try some of the beta amylase and alpha amylase to see that we can replicate, but I definitely wish you more luck uh in replicating it, and uh you should call back again and tell us uh tell us what happens. We right now though, we have to go I've been told that I have to go to a break. We're going to a break. But call back and tell us what happens, Con.
+
+[20:42] We're we're interested in it. Cooking issues. Oh, how you feel, bro? Feeling good. You feel good?
+
+[20:47] It's true. How do you feel, man? I'll feel all right. I don't want to know you're in, yeah. I feel fellow.
+
+[20:58] You're gonna have a bump good time. Ah We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump cut dye. We're gonna have a bump cut dye. We gotta take high.
+
+[21:29] Alright! And welcome back to Cooking Issues. Call in all your cooking questions to 718-497-2128-718-497-2128. Jack in the control room tells me that we might be able to go a little bit long today because we had some questions come in over the New Year's break. By the way, speaking of New Year's break, I know, I know we have not been writing a lot.
+
+[21:55] When I say we, I mean me, have not been writing a lot uh in the blog recently. I just wanted to spend some time with my family over the holidays, alright? No. Uh we're gonna get back on the stick and we'll, you know, I'll be I'll be writing some stuff real soon, we hope. So please, no, no uh no hate mail about how I haven't been writing anything.
+
+[22:14] Um okay. Uh speaking of uh sweet potatoes, we had a s you know, Colin called in with a sweet potato question. We have a an actually a question about sweet potatoes, uh, which is good. And it comes from uh Eliza Kwanbeck, and she writes, my boyfriend and I have been having an ongoing discussion about the difference between tarot, tapioca, manioc, yam, and sweet potato. Uh they spent a summer backpacking through Southeast Asia, taking cooking courses in every country we pass through.
+
+[22:39] Yeah, that sounds nice. Yeah, it does. I'd like to do that. Uh and in Malaysian Borneo, we took a cooking class and made Berber cha cha, which sounds awesome. I've never had it or heard of it, but I'll eat anything called Berber Chacha, which is a coconut yam taro porridge flavored with pondan leaves.
+
+[22:52] I love pandan. We uh panan is a leaf that has a little bit of a kind of a vanilla taste. For those of you that don't know, you can get it in uh in Southeast Asian groceries, uh Thai groceries, uh, you know, anything like that. And um it comes usually frozen, and sometimes the frozen one can have a little bit of a fishy taste when it's thought out, but it's used in a lot of dessert preps, and we uh used to make a really good uh sugar cookie out of it. Instead of vanilla, we would we basically uh blitzed the uh leaves with butter, heated it, and decanted the butter off and used that to make cookies, and and they were like this amazing green color, like pistachio green color, and uh with a like that pondon pondon flavor that you can't you know really replicate without the leaves because I think the extracts are crap, you know, the flavorings.
+
+[23:32] Anyway, uh that's uh off topic, but delicious. Um you know, she basically got into a bunch of arguments about uh, you know, what these different things are, what the different starches are, where they come from, etc. etc. etc. All right, uh uh Eliza.
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+[23:47] First of all, uh this is giving me a great opportunity to pump uh a series of books that I think everyone should own as many of as they can. And it's the uh Brooklyn Botanic Garden, that is Brooklyn Botanic Garden series. Uh and they have a series of small guides that are all really, really cheap. You can get them online, actually. If you go to the Brooklyn Botanic Garden, if you become a member, they send you like 10 for nothing, and they're like, you can get them for like five to twelve bucks.
+
+[24:11] I mean, they're amazing. But the one I'm gonna talk about today, it and it has snappy titles, which I really enjoy. Uh I love I like a snappy title. It's called Buried Treasures, Tasty Tubers of the World. Uh and it and what I like about these guides is you can read them kind of in one you know quick session.
+
+[24:29] Uh, you know, I don't know, when you're sitting on the hopper or something. It's only like a hundred pages, a lot of good pictures, a lot of good information. Um, and so uh I read it this morning, not on the hopper, please. Uh, and uh, but I recommend that series. They also have a really good uh book called The Best Apples to Buy and Grow.
+
+[24:46] Uh but here is my and they have a lot of really more rare, interesting tubers, corms, rhizomes, everything in that book that you can go take take a look at. But here's the quick breakdown. I know I'm gonna get some of this wrong, so please no hate mail. You can just correct me uh if I'm wrong. The sweet potato, uh, which I can't possibly pronounce the Latin name, is it's like ipo Ippamoya batatas, I can't pronounce it, but anyway, sweet potato uh is is from uh South America.
+
+[25:14] It's been cultivated for many, many years, like 10,000 years. Um, it went early pre-Columbian times, probably to Polynesia, and then uh, you know, after you know, the kind of you know, Great Columbian Seed Exchange, whatever, uh, went uh the other way uh over to Africa. It's grown all over the world. They grow a lot of it in China, it's fed to pigs, they make starch uh for noodles. It's also it's it's you know incredibly delicious.
+
+[25:36] Uh the white varieties of it are still just a sweet potato, the uh boneados are still they're just sweet potatoes. They're the same uh style, different cultivars, they're l they're less sweet. That is a sweet potato. Everything it usually in a New York in a sorry in a United States supermarket, things labeled yams are actually sweet potatoes. Luckily, the US government requires it somewhere on the box, it also says sweet potato, even if it says yam.
+
+[25:59] Okay. The actual yam, uh Dioscoria alata, is from East Asia, uh, but it made it to Africa well over a thousand years ago, and then from there to the West Indies, uh, you know, um, in I guess the 1500s or so. There's many, many varieties of it. The yam is is distinct, right? The yam, uh unlike the sweet potato, which can be eaten raw, the yam uh has to be cooked.
+
+[26:21] Okay, you have to you have to cook again. You can't you can't eat it raw. Um I don't really know much about yam starch. I think most of the stuff that I see is starch is uh sweet potato starch, which is entirely different from potato starch, entirely different from uh tapioca manioc cassava starch, okay? So that's kind of sweet potato versus yam.
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+[26:39] Now, taro, right, uh colo Casia esquilenta, right, you have to they like you have to cook uh that stuff because it contains some calcium oxalate, I think. Uh it's a corn, it comes from India, but went to Southeast Asia a long, long, long, long, long time ago, right? Uh that's what taro chips are made out of. In Hawaii, that's what poi is made out of. Taro cakes you get in uh in China, like that's all tarot, right?
+
+[27:03] There's a different thing called giant tarot, right? That's from Sri Lanka that w uh went uh also to the Pacific Islands, also needs to be cooked because of uh calcium oxalate, and and if you eat it, it'll like it'll taste like like thousands of of sharp little needles, and it's very unpleasant. So it's very, you know, don't want to do it. You want to cook it to get rid of it. Sometimes you want to cook it, you want to cook it.
+
+[27:24] I think that's with a pinch of baking soda helps uh neutralize it. I think, but I'm not sure. Uh I don't I don't do it do a lot of work on it. Okay. Then uh kind of the answer to tarot from uh the South America is uh Yautia, right?
+
+[27:36] It's the same family as tarot. And so basically, like uh Yautia and taro, you can kind of interchange uh those those two things, right? Uh so anyway, so that's that. Now, an entirely separate ball of wax is the and these are all the same damn thing, just from different different names, different places. Manioc, cassava, tapioca, and yucca, right?
+
+[27:55] Those are all uh manahad esqualenta. I can't pronounce any of this, so please don't come back on me. They th these are like, you know, uh relatively recent, i.e. like a thousand BC. Uh they're all that's from South America, but it's spread all over the world.
+
+[28:08] You like now there's two kinds, right? There's the there's the the the sweet kind and then the not sweet kind, and then they all contain certain amounts of compounds that turn into cyanide. So you you definitely want to uh cook them, but the all the varieties usually you buy in the supermarkets now, um, you know, you can just cook them and eat them. You don't need to like s grind them, soak them overnight to get rid of the cyanide compounds and wash them and then you know and process them. Uh but in the old in the old days you did, or or um you'd die.
+
+[28:36] Anyway, but uh most of the varieties that are cultivated now, uh you don't have to do that. And so that's where tapioca starch comes from, which is what they make the little pearls out of in bubble tea, to the best of my knowledge. And it's also uh what um you know, tapioca starch is very interesting. It's a different shape starch from uh many other starches. It's it's got a characteristic what's called kettle drum shape.
+
+[28:56] You're gonna want to look uh a good source for different starches is National Starch Corporation and or the International Starch Uh Council, I think, has a website. And the Egan Press mentioned earlier a book on starches, uh which you can get from the American Association of Serial Chemists, uh uh has a good stuff on um tapioca starch, but tapioca starch, aside from its interesting kettle drum shape, uh, is world-renowned for being very bland, so it doesn't uh cause a lot of flavoring uh to you know to things because it's bland. Uh it also uh is used in puff snacks because it has very good uh expansion properties because it has a nice uh amylo amylopectin breakdown. Uh so uh, you know. Anyway, also those things, yuca maniacca uh uh cassava tapioca, you'll often find a thick coating of wax over it, because if not, they kind of turn to crap pretty quick in the uh in the supermarket.
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+[29:44] So how is how's that, Nastasha? That was very informative. Quick quick rundown? Did it make any make any dang sense at all? It did.
+
+[29:50] Did uh all right. Let's take another break before we get back to the back. Alright, so listen, we're gonna take another commercial break, but call in your questions too. 718 497 2128. That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues.
+
+[30:07] How you feel, man? I'll feel all right. I don't want any people to know you in here. How you feel, fella? Sure getting down.
+
+[30:17] Look at him. We're gonna have a bunk good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time.
+
+[30:35] Don't take them up, Brad. We gotta take a high. All right. Yeah, let's go on back. We gotta take high.
+
+[30:59] Yeah. Now I won't have a body. Let's bread blow up by two cores. And then I wanna wave in. Let's go until that we did it.
+
+[31:06] Now alright. All right, all right. You know, we're gonna we're gonna talk this cooking issues. Welcome back. 718-497-2128.
+
+[31:14] That's 718-497-2128. We actually had a question about our songs, and we're gonna uh talk about them later. For those of you that actually know that song already, which uh oh, I won't spoil it. I won't spoil it. Uh okay.
+
+[31:24] So we had a question about carbonation, one of my favorite things. I've never actually written about it on the blog. Uh I guess just because most of the research I've done on carbonation, I did kind of so long before I had the blog that I just never bothered uh writing about it. But you know, maybe someday, if I ever get the time, we'll write a uh uh a primer on it. Um again, I will write a primer on is what I mean to say.
+
+[31:45] Uh so the question is do you have any thoughts about the uh EC slash ISI? Like both are correct, but I think they're moving towards Nastasha, which one of the C they're moving towards EC. Uh do you have any thoughts on the EC twist and sparkle carbonation system? It seems like it solves a lot of the problems you have with soda siphons and it's cheaper and smaller than the soda stream, uh, but still um does use small cartridges. Long term, I'd like to get a system with a 20-pound CO2 tank, and and this is from Sam, and yes, Sam, you should get a 20-pound CO2 tank.
+
+[32:12] At the very minimum, a five-pound CO2 tank, Sam. Minimum. Anyway, uh, but I'm a student, and I'll probably be moving a few times in the next few years, so it's not practical to purchase at the moment. Uh I'm also considering as a gift from my parents who buy fizzy water by the case but are not going to be interested in driving around with big CO2 tanks. Hey, they're not that big, Sam.
+
+[32:28] They're not that big. I live in a tiny, tiny apartment, right? I live in a an 800 square foot apartment with uh two rambunctious kids. Uh and and I have not one but two 20-pound CO2 tanks in there. Anyway, I'm not saying you have to do it.
+
+[32:45] I'm not trying to make you feel bad. I'm just saying you can do it. I know you can do it, Sam. Anyway, uh a couple more questions I can't seem to find the answers to. How much water can I carbonate with the eight gram cartridges the system comes with?
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+[32:55] Are the cartridges proprietary? Can they be purchased more cheaply from someone besides uh EC or in bulk, and how well does it work? Okay. Uh I can't tell you that you can buy it from someone else, but all of those cartridges are uh pretty much uh pretty much the same. Um EC's, you know, guarantee I shouldn't say this, I'm gonna get my my butt handed to me by the EC Corporation because I'm friends with those guys.
+
+[33:16] But uh, you know, they claim that their cartridges are all very accurately weighed out, uh, etc. etc. They're they're very pure. You can only get really one bottle of uh water out of the eight gram cartridge, and therein is the rub. So for me, it's more of for bars uh who don't want to invest in a carbonation system to maybe do drinks.
+
+[33:33] And for me to really carbonate a drink, it's gonna take two cartridges because I have to blast off some of the uh stuff. Uh and so I I'd hate to say this, but I think if you're gonna make a lot of seltzer at home uh and you want a smaller system, that you know it's gonna cost a lot very quickly to run through cartridges if you're actually drinking a lot of soda water and uh EC is gonna come tear my head off. But I would definitely in that situation, if you don't want to go for a uh five or twenty-pound CO2 tank, I would go for the soda stream. I'm gonna get my butt handed to me. That's okay, you're telling the truth.
+
+[34:03] But I would go for the soda stream. I know many people that have it who don't want to have the five, twenty-pound CO2 tanks, you get a a lot more charges out of the um out of the refill um because you're just gonna go you're gonna run through CO2 cartridges like the end of the world is coming with uh with the twist and sparkles. Now the advantage of the twist and sparkle is that you can do liquor and other things in it that they tell you with the uh with the soda stream that you can't do because of foaming problems. I I've never I don't own a soda stream, but I I'm thinking that I can modify one to do drinks like pretty cheaply just by adding a little extender tube to it. But I would definitely consider getting the um you can get the starting level um soda stream, I think, for under $100, like $79.
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+[34:46] And I think it'd pay for itself pretty quick in terms of uh in terms of chargers. But uh I've probably just cut off my nose despite my face. We probably will never work for EC again. But uh Sam, those are my those are my feelings. Uh it oh, it it works, it works fine.
+
+[34:59] Uh as long as you chill it, uh really, really chill your li uh liquids, keep your levels uh accurate. But I usually put two chargers in to really get uh a really strong charge in it because I like it really, really, really fizzy. Uh and so I really feel like you're gonna blast through cartridges with it. Uh I can't believe I say this on air because I'm gonna get I'm gonna get in trouble. Anyway, uh uh here we have a caller.
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+[35:18] Caller, you are on the air. Hi, I'm Brian. Um calling from San Francisco. Happy New Year to you, Dave. Happy New Year.
+
+[35:26] Um thank you. Uh so I have two questions um which are unrelated. Um I'm hoping you can answer um them both. Um so I'll I'll ask them both uh right now. Um and the first question is regarding um distillation.
+
+[35:41] I've noticed um that there's a lot of kind of distillation equipment. I'm guessing I'm sort of interested in making my own um kinds of essential oils. I bought um a number of essential oils from um from Mandy Aftel in the past. Um and now should pardon me? Friend of cooking issues, by the way, Mandy Aftel.
+
+[36:01] Yes, yeah. Yes, yes. Um have uh have um and I've used them and they're they're really delicious, and so now I'm interested in sort of making my own. Um and I'm wondering what kind of setup you might recommend to um begin to uh start um doing making my own essential oils and um hydrosols. So that's question number one.
+
+[36:24] Um and the second question um has to do with pectin, um, which is I've tried m making my own um patch free and I haven't had a lot of success. Um and I've used a couple of different um supermarket pectins um over the counter. Um I've done some reading and one was said that certo, which is the liquid kind, I tried and um that was supposed to be okay, and the other was like Pomonas or Ramonas or something something like that, um, and that that was supposed to work, but I haven't had any success. Um so I'm hoping that you might be able to uh um give a little help me with that and give a little one on one on on pectins as some sources for getting them. So let's go in reverse.
+
+[37:07] Uh what's your problem with it? Um not setting. Huh. Not setting. And uh do you you're making sure that your acid levels are high enough and your sugar levels are high enough?
+
+[37:18] I mean the main thing with pectins. I mean, I used it for like cumquat, you know, so it was pretty high acid. And but what about the sugar levels? It was still pretty high. Yeah.
+
+[37:28] I mean, maybe and I boiled it for a while. Right. You're gonna w you I don't I don't have off the top of my head off my head what the the numbers are, but pe uh regular pectin in order to set needs very high solids level, and uh, you know, which means like a lot of a lot of sugars and also acids. Cumquat should be acidic enough to set it. Uh then the question is is how high is the solids level, which is going to be then determined by the temperatures.
+
+[37:54] Now, presumably you're taking the temperature high enough that um your solids level is gonna be high enough. That that could be a source of the problem, not taking the temperature high enough, or if you took the temperature high enough, then adding another liquid that's going to um dilute it back down below the solids level where it's gonna set properly. Um you know, the the the different pectins you can get a lot of times are gonna be apple based or citrus based. Um it it I don't I don't know any of the store brands. I've never used any of any of them.
+
+[38:25] Um, you know, I I tend to use more of like the the weirder ones for kind of hydr hydrocholid applications because that's what people ask me for, and those ones you can use in lower solids and with lower sugars, but they require things like calcium to set. That's one of the pectins they use for kind of low sugar jams and things like that. Those are like, you know, um those are different kinds of like like low low methoxy amidate LMA, you might hear it called. What kind of calcium do you want uh or how do you recommend adding the calcium to those? Oh, you just add like you know, like a like uh gluconate.
+
+[38:54] I use calcium lactate glucose. It doesn't require that much. And in there's uh there's low methoxy pectin. The problem is it's very sensitive to calcium levels, so that if you know if you put too much, it's a problem, put too little, and there's low methoxy amidated, which is like less, it's more it's a little more bulletproof. But regular pectin should work unless you don't have a solids content high enough, which means you're probably not cooking to a high enough temperature.
+
+[39:16] That's the only thing I can think of. Um you say solids content, what what what what do you mean by that? Uh so in other words, like the you know, the your jelly is a certain percent, let's just break it, forget all the flavors, right? There's acid, whatever, blah blah blah, but it's a certain percent sugar and a certain percent water, right? And so you need to have the solids content, i.e.
+
+[39:34] sugar content, high enough for the pectin to gel properly. I mean, that's kind of like that's what pectin needs. It's so the two classic things to go wrong with with pectin-based things are you don't have enough uh the the solids levels aren't high enough, the sugars aren't high enough, or uh the acid levels not high enough. And those are the two kinds of things that you always want to want to look to first. Now, uh what was the first question again?
+
+[39:58] I got because I had to answer to it in my head. It has to do with distillation and essential oils. Okay. Now, a lot of people want to use like the stuff that I have, like a rotary evaporator, uh, all the kinds of things for distillation for essential oil. So much money.
+
+[40:09] Well, not too much money, yes, also, but uh also not effective. What you want to do for that is steam distillation, right? And so in a steam distillation setup, uh, I mean, in that's what I would buy. I've never done essential oil distillation, but I've considered buying a rig for it. And the good news is they're cheap and they're fairly effective.
+
+[40:25] And what you're what you're doing then is you're packing a column with uh your product and you're you're basically boiling steam is going through it, rupturing the cells, and the steam is carrying with it the essential oils, recondensing on the other side. The oils will float to the top or some to the bottom, depends. Some are actually heavier than water, right? And the stuff and the stuff that is left over that's water is the hydrosol. And so it's actually um you know the main problem is your yields usually are quite low, but it's definitely something that that can be done.
+
+[40:53] It's legal, it's not illegal to do because you're not using uh uh alcohol for it, you're using uh water. And so I would go definitely check out uh steam distillation. You should be able to get a whole small rig to test uh on eBay the parts for it for under uh a hundred bucks. You just want to make sure, you know, just well I saw that there was some that were vacuum uh distillation. Um there was a couple of rigs that were oh you know, under two hundred bucks.
+
+[41:19] First first for essential oils? It didn't say I mean they were sort of chemistry type type of equipment. I just typed in um steam distillation, uh vacuum steam distillation, and it there was a couple things that popped up on on Amazon, actually. Um I mean they're not they're not rotary evaporators, but would within in that case could you see you know uh it being done under vacuum being being helpful. Uh well I I think it might uh I've never done the test, but I think it it might actually be detrimental.
+
+[41:49] I mean I can't I get oils across when I'm doing rotovap distillation sometimes, but it's very small quantities and they're dissolved. Obviously they're dissolved in alcohol because I'm doing it in alcohol and a lot of these things are soluble in alcohol to a certain degree. Uh and I'll I do get oozo kind of effects uh when I water stuff down and some stuff, so you know there is oil in there, right? But um, you know, I I uh I think that the high temperature of the steam, which is helping to rupture the cells, is a is a benefit for uh the steam distillation, and I think that you might not uh get uh that kind of action if you put it under a vacuum. Because the main thing a vacuum is gonna do for you is lower the temperature at which everything boils.
+
+[42:26] Now you can get a more gentle result that way, but I don't think you're gonna get um I don't think you're gonna get uh a high enough yield of uh of essential oil to really have it be worthwhile. I don't know. Now you could try that you know I the one thing for essential oil extraction that I've tried only once or twice, but haven't really had success with is uh butane uh uh extraction, which is used by uh potheads for doing um for you know making honey oil out of uh out of uh swag weed and uh you know and I have it and the honey bee is the extractor that you use for that. And I I I've tried it once and I wasn't able to get a good result, but that's another thing I like to try. But I would definitely go for a regular standard uh steam distillation rig, uh which is pretty cheap, and I think you're gonna get good results.
+
+[43:10] I haven't in other words, I haven't done enough experimentation to figure out how to do it at a low temperature. Do you know what I mean? Okay. But and the ones that are produced aren't really produced at a low temperature unless they're super critical fluid CO2 extract and stuff anyway, and that's beyond most of our reaches, mine included, you know what I mean? Mm-hmm.
+
+[43:26] Okay, great. Um sounds within within my price range and and worth uh experimenting with. Definitely. And uh write back or call us and tell us how it works, all right? I will, Dave.
+
+[43:36] Okay, thanks a lot. All right, bye. Um Jack, should we go to another one or should I just finish out uh our questions? What do you think? Should we go to another break or should I finish out my questions?
+
+[43:45] No, I'll keep going. Keep going? Nice. Uh okay. So Ken, who wrote us about the uh Arabie, uh the Airby Aeropress, the Aero Press Coffee.
+
+[43:55] Um, he uh wrote back uh just basically talking to us about the air press. The Aero Press, for those of you that know, was invented by the guy that invented the Arabie, and um it's basically uh a piston that you put coffee in and then you apply pressure to the piston and you force uh the water through the like a puck, a brewing puck, and it makes basically supposedly a very high quality of uh like a mocha style coffee, not true espresso. Um and then uh but um Ken writes that there's this interesting thing. He says some aeropress power users dramatically increase the danger or the drama of using an aeropress by and they're only forty bucks. We gotta order one.
+
+[44:31] I I I meant to make a mental note to order one before I showed up on Amazon so I could say I've ordered it. Did someone say they were gonna let us borrow theirs? I don't know. I don't know. I don't know.
+
+[44:40] Anyway, some aeropress power users dramatically increase the danger of using aeropress by brewing with the machine upside down and using a polyester or metal metal filter instead of the paper filter to take full advantage of the bloom. I the oil, you know, the coming out coffee oil uh that has uh some yummies in it, and you can preserve them by brewing upside down and flipping the device over on end. Uh I suspect at least some people understandably conflate bloom with crema or maybe the benefits of crema. Uh very interesting. I hadn't thought about this.
+
+[45:04] And basically the point is is that let's say you're uh um let's say you are a uh uh um a French press person, right? So you take coffee and you push uh and the he points me to a website which uh I then I'll just read a little bit from the from the the the website. Uh and this is from I didn't write down the person's name. You know why? It's because I'm an idiot.
+
+[45:22] Oh, Scott Markhart. Anyway, the Aero Press uh gives its user unprecedented control over brewing variables, yielding a great cup of coffee, but there's trouble in paradise. It has a shortcoming. Fans of the venerable French press will understand immediately because they are accustomed to a cup that offers a complex flavor of coffee's natural oils. They are lost in a paper filtration systems like the aeropress.
+
+[45:40] On the other hand, many people do not enjoy the fines that a French press delivers in the brew. They embitter the bottom of the cup as they cause overextraction there and they have a bad mouthfeel. So we're caught between a rock and a hard place. And so what he does is he flips the aero press over, runs it in reverse. And I've always had a lot of uh problems with um French press in general.
+
+[45:57] One of which is that you can pack the the the grounds down at the bottom. The other is that they don't offer temperature control, which is dumb. The only attempt at a temperature controlled thing similar to a French press was the clover, and that cost like 17,000 dollars or something absurd like that. Until Starbucks bought them, and I don't even know who the heck has them anymore. Anyway, um so uh that's an interesting question.
+
+[46:15] So now I am uh mentally this morning spent an hour or so just sitting around thinking about um I don't know how to make a uh a French press slash Arabie that had all of the good results that without having you know stuff spraying all over my shirt. So so Ken, there definitely will be more uh thinking and talking on the Aero Press and its kin uh in in the future. We're I'm definitely gonna be researching that in the in the new year. Um now. Uh sorry folks, uh flipping through the uh flipping through the thing.
+
+[46:48] We have uh, by the way, if you call in the next 10 seconds, I will give you a free pork chop. And you will have the last and I just made that up. But I will. I'll give them a free pork chop. Anyway, um we had an interesting question, and it's uh it's a non cooking related question.
+
+[47:01] And I think I'll uh round out on that. I'm making sure that I'm not missing anyone uh else's um questions. Oh, I am missing someone's questions. Sorry, folks. Uh we have uh Howard from Montreal writes in and said he just started listening to the show over the holidays and he's loving every minute of it.
+
+[47:16] Thank you. Uh and uh he basically uh listened to the Berlin show, and he was we talked then about a mixture of uh sodium chloride and calcium chloride to reduce sodium intake. Uh and he says that uh his aunt uses this, and uh and basically uh he's wondering whether or not uh we were talking about like adding ions to things to basically increase the volatility, etc. etc. And and he was saying I'll just read it word for word rather than try to paraphrase it because I'm I'm butchering what he what he's trying to say.
+
+[47:43] So uh the effects I'm talking about, altering the solubility of volatiles, brining meat, bread, all seem to be related to ionic strength of the liquid. The higher the ionic strength, the more polar the aqueous phase, which in turn drives off organics. Similarly, in high ionic strengths, uh will alter the tertiary structure of proteins, such as gluten and bread. The brining process is slightly different, but the salts are driven into the meat, et cetera, et cetera. Assuming this theory is true, any soluble compound should be used instead of salt to achieve these effects.
+
+[48:06] However, I think the shielding effects of salt ions play an important role in the disruption of tertiary protein structure. As such, KCl should be a close substitute for NACL, although MGCL2 might be preferred in certain situations, but then you run into coagulations due to the dival divalent ca cation um uh magnesium's divalent cation. Anyway, what are your thoughts? Uh I don't have that many thoughts on it, only to say that um it's not only um uh me I I you know Howard, I just wanted to read this because I'm not ignoring your question. Uh I haven't um I haven't thought about it.
+
+[48:38] And I don't have enough time to think about it on air right now, right, Nastasha? But I I will think more about it. Obviously, uh there's certain things that different uh cations, for instance, calcium has specific results with uh specific uh in specific systems like hydrocolloids, sodium uh has uh certain results. But obviously just shifting the ionic balance of whatever you're gonna do with is going to mess with the protein structure. Uh but I haven't thought enough about it to uh to to really know.
+
+[49:03] But yes, you mean for instance, when you're brinding something, actually kind of like like like polyphosphates like uh tend to e like even alter the water binding protein uh water binding of protein more than uh regular sodium, like sodium polyphosphates tend to alter the the binding uh quite a bit more. Um so they're not probably all the same, but yes, they all work somewhat. Now, uh sorry uh that's like a long rambling like bunch of stuff from uh from Dave Arnold in the New Year's, having his brain go on Fritz in the middle of the radio. But here's a question I can answer answer, and it comes from Paul, uh, and it's not a cooking-related question. It's what are the two pieces of music on the Cooking Issues Radio Show podcast.
+
+[49:40] There uh and it's interesting, he thinks it's fish is fish is vodka is the intro, is what he said, which I love Fish is Fish. It's a great book. I used to read that to my kids all the time, Fish is Fish. Uh and uh we're gonna have a fun good time, uh, which is the one that is in the middle of the uh of the show. Uh, and he haven't had much uh luck googling the songs.
+
+[49:57] Okay, I'm gonna do it in reverse. The f the one in the middle is Doing It to Death by James Brown. Uh sometimes called Have a Funky Good Time, but that's not what it is. It's called Doing It to Death. And uh that song was uh released in 1973, uh and it's with the JBs and it's got it's amazing, it's got Macy O'Parker, it's got Fred Thomas.
+
+[50:17] And uh the reason I uh James Brown got me through many, many, many years, uh like late nights in the studio, uh welding at four in the morning. I would crank songs like that to get me kind of like over the hump when you're passing out into your welding mask, uh as you're you know, building like large sculptures alone, which you should never do. Um you should always have someone with you in the shop when you're working. Uh but uh doing it to death is one of those songs that you know it's just it's just so tight and he beats on a rhythm so long, and it's just a kick king. And it's just like minutes of this boom jump.
+
+[50:49] And so, like, you know, I like that kind of song just keeps me going. And it's what's famous for, even though we never play it uh this section on the radio, it's famous for a section, it's song's in in F. And in the middle of the song, James Brown like says, Okay, we're gonna take it to D, down D, funky D, and then boom, D, bent, that they get the gang, they take it down to D, and it's just an amazing, like it's an amazing transition, and it's like all of other, you know, Jake great James Brown songs, is that he can take it to really high level and then change it and somehow that goes into an even higher level. I mean, like he's a he's a mirac was dead now. Miracle worker with bridges like that.
+
+[51:25] And so uh he was incredibly influential to me uh from a musical standpoint. And so I had to pick a James Brown song, and we chose doing it, doing it to death. And so you can uh you can find it, uh find it there, and uh maybe sometime next time we'll play the the down D, funky D, skankin' D, down D part, which is uh uh fantastic. By the way, it you know, I guess it doesn't mean you're a bad person if you don't like James Brown, right? No, I yeah, it's associated with no, but it it definitely means there is something wrong with your funk motor.
+
+[51:56] Uh the uh the intro song is uh a little known song by Amos Milburn called Vicious Vicious Vodka. Although I like fishes, fish is vodka quite a bit. Uh and Amos Milburn, who died in in uh 1980, uh became uh somewhat popular in Los Angeles uh after World War II. Um and he wrote a lot of songs about liquor. Uh and uh, you know, Vicious, Vicious Vodka is actually not one of his best known ones, but he had Bad Bad Whiskey is a great song.
+
+[52:24] Um but a lot of songs about uh drinking. His uh he also wrote a famous song called The Chicken Shack, and he was kind of a contemporary of uh other people like Louie Jordan or uh Charles Brown, who did some uh amazing work, you know, Louie Jordan, you might know from Beans and Cornbread, or actually not as famous, we're just picking food songs. But uh Amos Milburn, uh, his best known song is actually not best known by him, and it's one scotch, one bourbon, and one beer, which you probably know the uh John Lee Hooker version of, and not the Amos Milburn uh uh version of. So uh apparently he did not actually have an alcohol problem, although all of his songs were like he did another one. I think he did um Milk and Water, which is basically means I'm not drinking right now because I'm back on milk and water because the doctor says that my liver will fall out if I continue to drink.
+
+[53:09] So uh that is vicious vicious vodka, or in my head now forever, fish is fish is vodka. Uh uh come back next week and listen to us. Cooking issues. Oh, you dead rat. Got me on this corner, and I don't know where I'm at.
+
+[53:42] Supposed to meet my baby in 20 minutes late. You got my head all twisted, and I guess can't get it straight. Fish is fishing vodka. Oh, you daddy rat. Got me on this corner.
+
+[54:10] And I don't know where I'm at. I had a chance to swap you for a little gym. Now, when my baby sees me, she's gonna bust my head. Use math to make the world a better place. Become an actuary through the society of actuaries and find solutions to the world's most pressing challenges.
+
+[54:38] As an actuary, the only thing higher than the pay is the satisfaction.
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+[0:00] The following episode of Cooking Issues has been brought to you by TechServe. This January, responsibly dispose of your old electronics at one of ten e-waste recycling events held across four boroughs of New York City, hosted by TechServe and the Lower East Side Ecology Center. Computers, printers, monitors, and lots of other electronics are being accepted for safe and proper recycling. Visit www.techserve.com slash recycling for more information and drop off location details. Hello and welcome to a late starting cooking issues.
+
+[0:44] I apologize to all the cooking issues listeners for being so late. I was stopped by the New York City subway system today, which decided it would take more than an hour to take me from my house in Manhattan to uh Bushwick here at Roberta's Pizzeria in Brooklyn, which uh should only be a half hour ride. Uh I could have run about twice as fast, Nastasha. What do you think? And then uh to top it off, uh what made it even more fun was as I was running from the subway station to the pizzeria, I uh nearly stepped in an eviscerated pigeon.
+
+[1:13] Oh, I saw that. Oh yeah. Yeah. And there's a dog outside the pizzeria tied up uh on a leash so long, uh, and it hated me so much because I was running. I guess it thought I was frightened, that I had to literally jump out of the way of its lunging teeth as it was flying towards my jugular.
+
+[1:30] Awesome. Uh so uh an inauspicious start to our show. Uh it's gonna have to be slightly abbreviated because we do have a show coming in at one. Uh call in all your questions too. What's the number, Stuff?
+
+[1:40] 718 497-2128. Am I right, Jack? That's 718. What is it? 497-2128.
+
+[1:48] So call in all your questions, but make it snappy because uh unfortunately we're gonna have an abbreviated cooking issues uh this week. Okay, so our first question comes in uh anonymously via tweet deck, whatever tweet deck is. Uh and uh here she says, uh cooking issues has embraced the equipment of the stoner in various ways, from the spice grinder to the smoking gun, etc. So maybe it's time for a fair trade back. I know it might be a touchy subject on air, but uh I thought I'd try for some insight.
+
+[2:14] Uh after having surgery a year ago, I can no longer partake in the smoking of anything. I guess presumably marijuana is what is going to be asked about, but I occasionally bake cook with with it, meaning marijuana. If people who write about uh marijuana are so cagey with what they're talking about, well uh and since I don't actually smoke it or bake with it or do anything with it, I have no problem talking about it. We're talking about marijuana here. Um anyway, uh okay.
+
+[2:40] So uh I occasionally bake cook with it as a substitute to smoking. Uh Google hasn't provided any answers as to what temperature THC, that's uh what's that, tetra, tetrahydrocannabinol, right? Someone uh is extracted into fat. And uh while the double uh boiler method is fine, this means putting your marijuana finely ground into butter in a double boiler and cooking it. Uh I have an immersion circulator who was curious as to uh which temperature I could utilize the low temperature of the immersion circulator to more effectively and with less attention, uh, replace a double boiler with low temp method.
+
+[3:10] Well, um I don't think there's a specific temperature. I did some research yesterday. There's not a specific temperature at which THC is extracted, just increasing the temperature, increase the extraction rate of THC. There are some people who say that uh storing uh high temperature for too long can degrade some uh of the THC, but then I have uh some other sources that say uh cooking your oil at a at a higher much higher temperature, actually, can take uh uh s some some types of uh pot and uh actually increase their potency, presumably by taking um uh uh t THC that's has a carboxyl group on it, an acid, uh decarboxylating it, and then uh converting it into THC. But uh I don't I don't know about that.
+
+[3:44] I would say that you're gonna be uh really good if you use a vacuum bag, so treat this like a cooking problem, right? Uh if you use a vacuum bag, you're gonna get the fat more um injected into the um into the leaf, and so I would assume you get a faster, better, more complete uh extraction. Um I haven't really done any experiments on this, but I I encourage anyone else to to write in. I spent about an hour, an hour and a half looking for it, but I also didn't get anything uh specific. I would just set your circulator to like 85 C with a bag.
+
+[4:19] Make sure you squeeze the bag a bunch to get agitation. Agitation seems important. And uh let us know how it works, uh, Mr. or Mrs. Tweet Deck.
+
+[4:26] Uh, we have a caller? Yes. Okay, caller, you're on the air. Hi, Dave. Howdy.
+
+[4:32] Quick question. Um over Christmas break, my mom made uh scalloped potatoes, and she's had mixed results before with um graying of the potatoes. Um she's using not reactive uh cookware, uh corning wear. Right. I mean, is this a does need to put the potato slices in acidulated water first, or what's going on there?
+
+[4:50] Uh yeah, so uh when you say graying, you mean um kind of the color that you get when potatoes are leaving out, kind of a bluish gray, blackish blue. Bluish gray, almost, I mean, not quite black, but getting, yeah, just looking a little, you know. It tasted fine, but it just looked a little scary. Yeah, I think your analysis is pretty much right on here. I think what's happening is is the uh the heat isn't getting to them fast enough to um cook them before uh the enzymes in them have a chance to start uh working on them and and turning them brown.
+
+[5:19] I've never tried, um, although I don't know why I feel silly saying this, but I've never tried doing something like uh ascorbic acid as an attempt to prevent uh that sort of enzymatic browning because usually my technique is to just keep them submerged in water until I'm ready until I'm ready to cook. But that's not really an option in the gratin. I mean is it is it in a really slow oven? It's it's not a convection oven. It's a conventional, yeah.
+
+[5:42] That might have something to do with it. You know, I think it's also uh quite interesting that you say that it's in uh corning because a corning is going to obviously transmit the heat to the potatoes slower uh th then uh you know i if it goes in cold now it'll trans it'll transmit it like a champ if you preheat it but then it becomes a pain to layer the gratin into the dish uh when you're going um you know be if you minimize exposure to oxygen make sure that all the uh all the potato pieces are coated in kind of uh in in you know the sauce or whatever before you go that might not be an option with the recipe you're using. I mean you could try a little ascorbic acid. I'd be curious whether or not it works. Obviously a pre-blanch would work but then that's kind of a hassle to have to pre-blanch your potato slices before you do it.
+
+[6:24] Um you know but I would just make sure that before you assemble that the that the the chips are stored under water for as long a period or you know or use as quickly as possible because that's also gonna save you some some browning. Um I don't know what do you think any of these are the actual culprit or what? I I your guess is as good as mine, yeah. Um I think yeah I think in the future I'll I'll advise you to just try the uh the acid water I guess. Yeah but I wouldn't I mean the problem is you don't want the thing to taste like lemons.
+
+[6:54] I would get ascorbic acid which is vitamin C. Okay. Or you can get um i if you uh uh you know, go to a natural food store, not a natural food store, but a place that deals with dehydrators. Um they make uh sodium metabisulfite, which is uh some people use as as the you know as a uh antioxidant as well. But I wouldn't use lemon juice because I think it's really gonna kinda mar the flavor of what you're looking for.
+
+[7:14] And even ascorbic ascorbic acid, you know, has some flavor, but just not very much, and you would need a relatively small amount of it. Because remember, you you only need it to last until it gets hot enough to kill the enzymes anyway, and then you're good to go. Yeah. All right. All right, and so try a faster pan, try preheating the pyrex, try using ascorbic acid, but let us let us know what happens, see whether or not uh any of our guesses were uh on the money, all right?
+
+[7:37] Awesome, Dave. I'll keep you updated. All right, cool. Um now uh we have a question uh that comes in from Tucker saying on yesterday's radio show oh yesterday, well, last week's radio show, Dave mentioned a modification to a soda stream to deal with foaming when carbonating things other than water. I got one because my girlfriend goes through a liter of soda water a day, only a liter.
+
+[7:56] Only wimpy. Come on, get your girlfriend to start drinking liquids. Christ's sakes. Uh I tried carbonating a couple of white wines, which foam too much to get very carbonated. What would the modification to the soda stream be to solve this problem?
+
+[8:08] Okay, first of all, you're gonna uh in order to make a white wine taste as carbonated as water, you're gonna need to actually put more bubbles into it because uh uh wine, anything with alcohol in it tends to absorb more uh CO2 for the same level of sensation on your tongue, right? Which means that you're gonna have to have the wine to be very cold. So the the first trick you're gonna have to do is not try to um decarbonate white wine when it's right out of the uh, you know, just out of the fridge, because that's probably not gonna be cold enough. I would get it ice cold. Ice cold, okay?
+
+[8:41] Ice cold. And then uh I would put it into uh the soda screen machine. It it is gonna foam. Anything that has kind of surface active properties like that is gonna foam a lot more than um your typical than water. Water is the only thing that we really carbonate a lot that doesn't foam at all.
+
+[8:56] So here's what I would do. There's a in for those of you who don't know what the heck I'm talking about, soda stream. You can go, you can buy them at uh like a Whole Foods, you can buy them at a bunch of different places, and they they use kind of an intermediate size uh CO2 canister and allow you to carbonate I don't know, several gallons with one with one canister and then you recycle the canister and get a new one, and you only have to carry the CO2 bottle around because you produce the water at your house. There's not a lot of plastic waste, etc. etc.
+
+[9:23] Okay. So uh in the soda stream that you're supposed to fill the bottle, I think like two-thirds or a little more up, and a little tube goes into the bottle, and that's what actually carbonates. It's like a little like almost looks like a cappuccino frothing thing that comes down. Now, the problem is is that if you actually fill up your bottle with wine to the level that that tube touches, it's gonna foam, and there's really nothing you can do about that. It's gonna foam a lot.
+
+[9:45] So, what I would do is put a tube over that, right? So get get a piece of rubber tubing uh and then just slip it over that to extend the length of the CO2 uh wand down closer to the bottom of your container. You're gonna have to jimmy it around to get the container onto it with that longer tube, but that's gonna allow you to carbonate with a much smaller volume of liquid, right? Now, so now you have your super ice-cold white wine, you uh have your tube extender on your soda stream, plug it in, hit it a couple times. Now remember, this is all theoretical because I don't own a soda stream.
+
+[10:15] Uh, hit it a couple times with CO2, but don't carbonate it as much as you think. Now, now, purposely, purposely foam off that wine, right? Now you're gonna be bubbling all the stuff out, you're gonna be getting rid of any uh trapped air that's in the wine from the pouring, and in that kind of trapped air is gonna cause a lot of foaming and bubbling. And so if you do that once or twice with a small amount of CO2, you're gonna get rid of some of the crud that's in there that's causing the foaming, and you're gonna get a better carbonated product all the way around. Then hit it with your maximum amount of CO2.
+
+[10:44] I would pick up the unit a little bit and shake it a little bit to get the the CO2 in. Then let it settle out completely, completely before you uh vent and allow it to open it. Because I think this I've never, again, this is all theoretical. I think the soda stream lets you pressurize and then vent separately, but I'm not sure. But this technique should work.
+
+[11:05] Even if it does not, this technique should work. The main thing you use is foaming is not your enemy. You just have to uh account for it, which means you have to use a smaller volume and you have to get the CO2 down into that smaller volume, and that you should definitely carbonate more than one time. The only time we carbonate once is with water. Everything else we carbonate, and even water sometimes a couple times.
+
+[11:25] We carbonate two, three, four times to make sure that we've gotten rid of all of the nucleation sites and that uh we get a good product. And um, you know, just empirically from the years and years that we've you know I've been carbonating, this proves to be a uh technique that works, and I'm assuming you can get it to work with the soda stream. We can jimmy almost anything to work. Um what do you think? Absolutely.
+
+[11:46] Yeah, all right. Okay, so uh let's rip through this because we're we're on short time. So I I think we're gonna be commercial. Oh, by the way, uh Tucker, who sent us that enjoyed our country ham post. Nice.
+
+[11:57] Nice. Thank you very much. Uh okay. Um Marty from Eagle Rock, California says, San Gabriel Valley represent. Is that where you're from?
+
+[12:05] I yeah, yeah. Yeah. Eagle Rock is a place that has a rock that looks like an eagle. For real? Yes.
+
+[12:11] Oh, all right. Like a like uh like an eagle with its wings out or like a big dead eagle? Like a big head, an eagle's head. Yeah. Specifically an eagle's head.
+
+[12:19] Yeah. Hmm, okay. Okay. I read on the site that you can use the ISI infusion technique on uh to make flavored oils. Have you ever tried cacao or coffee infused oils?
+
+[12:28] I have not. Uh I have not. That's uh an interesting question. Um I know people obviously we've we've done a lot with uh cacao and uh alcohol because I do most of my stuff with alcohol in the ISI. Um and uh I know people that have done coffee coffee bitters.
+
+[12:46] Don Lee is working on a coffee bitters. Um so the the short answer, no. Uh I I haven't. The um uh I would I would just try it and and and tell us tell us what happens. I mean, there's no reason why it shouldn't work.
+
+[13:02] The main thing we've done with it is lemon peels, uh and we may made our own lemon uh oils and um other things like that, citrus. Uh the m the for those you don't know what the heck I'm talking about, ISI infusion is where you put uh you take an ISI cream whipper, you put in um uh you we use liquor, but you can put in water based foods or uh uh oils, you put in something porous, you pressurize it with nitrous. When you pressurize it with nitrous, it forces the fat or liquid into your porous product. You shake the the heck out of it to get it to infuse in, then you rapidly vent it and all the flavor gets boiled out uh and you have a delicious infused product. Um remember though, when you do oils, you're gonna want to use a lot more product.
+
+[13:41] It doesn't suck up the flavor as readily as alcohol. Although, you know, this might be an interesting way to suck some of the flavor out of the marijuana, going back to our marijuana post. Maybe I'm not uh I'm not advocating this. I'm not advocating this, but someone might want to try uh uh ISI in conjunction with uh with a water bath. Put you know, put the ISI into a water bath um and see whether or not you can extract uh herbal oil essences, let's say.
+
+[14:05] Yeah? Don't be cagey. Uh yeah, marijuana. I'm talking about marijuana. I can say that because I don't really care.
+
+[14:10] Um now Marty also wants to make a uh Telegio uh cheese whiz, which sounds like a good idea. Um I didn't uh unfortunately I was gonna talk to my uh cheese whiz expert, which is uh Wiley Dufresne, whose favorite favorite food isn't really cheese whiz, it's eggs and but he loves American cheese. Right. And so the trick with the cheese whiz is getting the the texture just right. Now I've you I've made many uh cheese sauces, including some that could be gunned, um, but I've noticed um you know that unless you unless you get it just right, sometimes it can go grainy.
+
+[14:41] I don't think it's gonna be a problem with the telegio, the telegraph you're just gonna want to stop from breaking. But I hesitate to give you a recipe now. I'm gonna have Nastasha remind me that when I talk to Wiley, I'm gonna see what he thinks the best kind of telegio spray cheese would be. It uh my son's actually fascinated with not with cheese whiz, but the actual pressurized, because he wants to Marty wants to do this in his ISI. Uh who else has a recipe for that out there?
+
+[15:03] I think uh is it Bayless? Someone like no no. Who has a re someone has a recipe out there? Anyway, we'll we'll find one for you. And the my son though is obsessed with the easy cheese.
+
+[15:13] Easy cheese is like you know, the spray cheese that comes in, but it sprays out really slowly, and that used to be my car food of choice. I used to drive 24 hours straight from uh New York or or Connecticut down to Florida to visit my grandparents with friends, and we would just pack the car with uh Diet Mountain Dew, easy cheese pretzels, and prunes, and that combination of like like like it somehow leveled us out and got us uh to Florida without crashing uh crashing and dying. So, yeah, good good memories, easy cheese. Anyway, uh we'll look that up. Okay.
+
+[15:41] Okay. Uh now, um did you find uh oh, here's the one we didn't talk about last week, the one I flubbed last week. Uh Howard from Montreal asked us whether or not we thought that potassium chloride, which is used in a 50 50 ratio with sodium chloride as a salt replacer, would be uh a good um replacement for salt in brines. Uh and so and for some reason last week my brain was completely fried. I don't know why my brain's working any better this week with the transportation problems I've had.
+
+[16:09] But um he uh I think he's pretty much right. I think that in most situations uh potassium chloride mixed with sodium chloride would uh provide a lot of the same uh functionality as just straight sodium chloride in a brine scenario. Uh possibly in a uh in a bread scenario. I don't know how specific the reactions are to sodium versus uh you know, uh sodium as a particular ion versus uh potassium as a particular ion, or whether it's just ionic strength that's doing the doing the the business. I know that most of the time when we're brining, even when we use things other than table salt, we do use sodium uh based things like the sodium polyphosphates that are used to plump up hams uh and things like that.
+
+[16:47] Uh one thing I would caution against is that potassium chloride tastes nasty to me. It's got like a metallic bitter taste. I find it nasty. I just don't like it. Um I really don't like it.
+
+[16:59] Um magnesium chloride um I like a lot better because it's sweeter. Uh as uh Howard points out though, magnesium might not have the same effects because it's a divalent cation, so you'd have to add uh more of it because it's got uh all the extra chloride in there. Uh Nastasia's not a huge fan of the magnesium chloride. No. No?
+
+[17:18] No. No? No. Yeah. We m we did a test where we made a bunch of different uh uh fake bottled waters by using uh a filtered water and then adding our own salts to it.
+
+[17:28] And I actually like the magnesium chloride water, although it really tasted nasty after we carbonated it. Am I right? Mm-hmm. I mean, like, yeah, I mean pretty nasty, but it did have a sweet taste by itself. Um but this brings me to uh my next point, which is uh salt in general.
+
+[17:41] Now uh I don't remember whether How Howard's uh I believe it was who is it that couldn't his mom, I guess, couldn't have uh straight salt. Uh but Ken Kirshenbaum from the Experimental Cuisine Collective, professor of polymer chemistry at uh at uh uh uh NYU, friend of mine, friend of the blogs. Uh we were having discussion because a friend of his actually uh uh shot a beaver or trapped a beaver and then you know shot it to to kill it. Uh legally, by the way, completely legally. The guy's like a game blah blah straight state trooper upstate.
+
+[18:12] Uh and he brought brought me the tail. So we're gonna cook it for him. I'm gonna invite Ken over and we're gonna have some beaver tail. Flapper and tail, by the way. Not just tail, not just flapper, flapper plus tail.
+
+[18:20] Anyway, uh so uh we were having this discussion, and Kent, as a scientist, uh he and I get into uh discussions a lot about how crappy most science is, specifically food science, but uh but even more specifically uh nutrition-based science that tries to make claims about things. And one of the one of the problems he has now, uh, and we're trying to figure out is is there's a huge kind of uh war on salt right now, right? I mean Nastash and I uh well it's a long stupid story. Yeah, but we were out of California, this guy was like, hey, this was uh this is in May. He was like, hey, I hear that they they're outlawed using salt in.
+
+[18:55] In all of New York City. All in New York. I was like, no, that's not true. And he's like, yeah, they outlawed it. I was like, I was just there.
+
+[19:01] He's like, no, no, no, they outlawed it. I was like, I work in a cooking school, I'm pretty sure I would kind of know, you know, and I'm up on this anyway. Uh but it is true that people are trying to limit the the the use of salt. Uh major corporations, including some that uh we've worked with, uh, you know, have come out with a lot of um products that where they're trying to reduce the salt because salt is seen as this kind of evil additive that people are adding to processed foods. Uh I don't know to get us a I don't know, I don't know what the the gripe is.
+
+[19:27] Here's the thing, right? Is that uh the data is awful. The data sucks, right? There is no data showing that the majority of us need to curtail our salt intake, right? I mean, we all forget that before uh you know, refrigeration, right, we consumed a buttload of salt, right?
+
+[19:46] Because everything we had was preserved in some form of drying or drying and salting, or drying and salting and smoking, but it was a lot of salt. Our great grandpappies and grandmammies had much more salt in their diet, I would guess, than us just because we happen to eat a lot of easy cheese. Now I'm not advocating going out and buying easy cheese, and I'm not advocating on going on salt overload, but what are the ramifications, right, to saying that we have to reduce all of uh salt and everything? I'll tell you what they are, right? Because it's not it's not that you're gonna suddenly go out and eat less processed food.
+
+[20:19] I mean, maybe listeners for our blog are because they're pretty hardcore people, right? But the real ramifications are that instead of reducing uh salt or making it less processed, what they're gonna do is they're gonna try and keep palatability the same, and they're gonna do it by ramping up umami. So if you taste a lot of these, um if you taste a lot of these uh these you know products that have reduced sodium, right, they have natural versions of free glutamic acid and whether or not they're the sodium variant, which they won't be because they're trying to reduce sodium. It's the sodium, not the salt, right, that people are worried about. Uh but they're gonna be ramping up things like potassium uh, you know, uh monopotassium glutamate uh or natural forms of this so they can say that they have a lower sodium content.
+
+[20:57] And the upshot is all of these products taste like dashi, right? They all have a brothy, dashy sameness, like uh uh uh because we're not used to those flavors being in those products. So, you know, you don't the the problem with MSG isn't that it's bad. I don't believe it gives you a headache. The all the best studies are that if and Nastasha thinks it gives her a headache, by the way.
+
+[21:14] That's that's crap. I'm just saying. It's crap. Anyway, uh we'll do a double blind study. But my point is is that uh is that um you you know everything in the world shouldn't taste like it has a lot of whether or not it's natural, whether or not it's got the sodium, whether or not it causes a problem, not everything in the world is meant to taste like it's doped up on on MSG.
+
+[21:43] It's not supposed to taste like dashi, it's not supposed to taste brothy or or mushroom y or parmesani or or tomato y. Do you know what I mean? And so I think the the upshot is is that in order to increase passability palatability, we're gonna get to an even uh greater level of homogeneity and taste. And I think this is a a huge problem. Now, that's just from a taste standpoint.
+
+[22:02] From a science standpoint, um, you know, I was reading an article and uh you know, and it cited uh another article that was really, really crappy on uh that salt is like the biggest killer uh today. And the article basically said, well, uh heart disease kills everyone, a lot of people, uh, and uh salt is a big cause of heart disease, and therefore salt causes most this is all this is all horse hockey. Like the truth is is that majority of us can eat as much salt within reason as we want and not uh not have hypertension as a result. Now, uh this is my feeling. Now we're I'm like I'm basically here.
+
+[22:42] I want people to call in on me and say that I'm full of it, right? I won't but I want to see if we can form our own kind of war path, pro salt war path. Salt, salt, salt, love it, right? Not because I need to make it force food that's bad down people's throat, but because salt is the universal delicious maker, right? Salt will make everything taste better.
+
+[22:59] We all need salt. Like our civilization is built on salt. Like we are a salt loving group of folk. And I think that there's no reason for us to um to stop just because some nincompoops say that we are uh, you know, that that all of a sudden we're all gonna get hypertension as a result of our salt intake. And I definitely don't think that they should make processed foods even worse than they are now by making them all taste like dashi broth.
+
+[23:33] Not that dashi bra is not delicious, and in fact, I have a post in draft mode, it's gonna go up later today on kambudashi. I swear to swear, I swear to God, it's going up today. Yeah, it's it's in draft mode. So it's gonna be we are extremely pro uh kombu dashi. Um, but um, but I just don't think that my pasta should necessarily taste like kombutachi.
+
+[23:51] Now, uh one last what was the name of the way. Well one last thing. It's my it's my it's my outro. Okay, Ken. Uh Ken.
+
+[23:57] So Ken, who wrote in about the Aero Press uh coffee machine, uh told us to read an article last week. I didn't get time to read it until last night. And it's called The Truth Wears Off by uh Joan Alaire and the New Yorker, and it's a very interesting article on uh the fact that scientific research tends to be um that pe people like have these great results that tend to turn to crap over time. The more the studies are replicated, the more you find that uh the results are are crap. Now, this is uh you know dovetails into what we were talking about before is that a lot of people report things by data mining.
+
+[24:29] They data mine things and then they figure out that, well, uh, you know, XY or Z nutritional thing is great, or XYZ food is bad. But uh uh I'm gonna t and everyone should read the article. It's very you know, great article, important article, uh, as was pointed out to us, but uh, I want to f focus it more on cooking. And the same thing happens to us with cooking. I find that um we all rush to and I'm you know probably guilty of this more than anyone else because we write a blog that's supposed to have some new new results to it.
+
+[24:55] But I think we all need to uh be careful when um when we're cooking to make sure that we are actually doing what we think we're doing. That we actually um we pay attention to uh what tries to make a food better, what tries to make a food worse. Um that we don't give explanations right away, that we try to uh disprove what we're working on rather than prove what we're working on, because I think that's gonna make us think more like scientists in the kitchen, and I think sinking thinking like a scientist in the kitchen is gonna make you a better cook. Uh sorry for the late start, and this has been cooking issues coming back to you on time next week.
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+[0:00] When you open the bottle and you drink the wine, it speaks for itself. Is it, you know, a wine that's made for food? Yes. Those types of wines are tend to be more rustic or have a little bit more body. Are there wines that are just pure out hedonistic pleasure?
+
+[0:14] Sure. There's wines like that that maybe from California that are more cocktail wines or wines that are just big jammy fruit bombs. And those I think appeal to certain group of people as well. I think the wines that Barber House specializes in is more of these food-friendly, you know, rustic style, um, biodynamic, organic wines that tend to be a bit more earthy, come from someplace. So you can almost taste the terroir.
+
+[0:38] You can almost feel this guy, this sense era was grown in this slatey rocky soil. And so to me, that's the exciting part that the wine feels like it comes from someplace. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network coming to you live from approximately 12 to 1245 every Tuesday. Uh it's another rainy, slushy day here in Brooklyn. I'm in the studio at Roberta's Pizzeria with Nastasha De Hammer Lopez.
+
+[1:13] We're here to answer all of your cooking related questions, technical and not. So if you can, please give us a holler at 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. Okay, so uh we really we uh we had a question that I forgot to answer last time, so I might as well uh might as well get into it. It's it's about gelatin.
+
+[1:34] And the question is uh basically, well, what what the heck? What's what's what's the difference between all the different gelatins there are? Uh what's the difference between fish gelatin and uh you know animal based regular, you know, I guess red, you know, meat, regular meat-based animal gelatin. Uh what's the difference between the different grades, the bronze, the the gold, the silver, and the platinum. Well, here's the deal.
+
+[1:56] So uh gelatins in the industry are rated on something called bloom strength. And uh bloom strength has nothing to do with uh you know a flower blooming or even the fact that uh gelatin, you know, uh swells up when you put it in water. It has to do with a dude named Bloom, who uh in the early 20th centuries came up with a technique for measuring the strength of gels and uh gelatin gels. And it's it's uh really dumb, simple technique. You just take a uh uh a you know a plunger of a particular size and you push it into the surface of uh gelatin that's being cured uh very accurately.
+
+[2:29] I'll I'll I'll give you the exact numbers in case you want to run your own bloom tests. It's a 6.67% gelatin solution that is tempered for 17 to 18 hours at 10 degrees Celsius, and they measure uh how much weight in grams it takes to uh push a uh half inch diameter plunger four millimeters into the surface of the of the gelatin. Why why would they specify part of it in inches and part of it in millimeters? Who knows? Makes no dang sense, right?
+
+[2:55] No sense. And it it's really a s you know, a simple little thing. And most most industrial, by the way, old school industrial measurements like this are quite quite simple. Like they used it, they and they still measure viscosity of a lot of things by literally like building a trough with a ruler in it, dumping some crap into it and seeing how far that stuff runs along the trough before it stops. I mean, this is the kind of this is the kind of like bonehead test, but it makes everything standardized because they need to be able to standardize gelatin for various different uh applications.
+
+[3:23] So uh gelatins come in a in a wide range then, in sheet gelatin, bronze gelatin, uh the the bronze grade is gonna be about 125 to 155 uh bloom. So it's fairly soft, right? Whereas silver is this is from an eagle thread, by the way, so you know, I shouldn't take it without saying it's it from an eagle thread. Uh s silver gelatin is about 160. Uh gold is at like 190 to 220, and platinum is 235 to 265.
+
+[3:44] So that's the highest uh bloom strength. I would bet most of us use something in the uh in the gold in the gold range, right? Now, uh bloom strength, interestingly, uh, has nothing necessarily to do with how the gel is going to perform in a particular application, like for instance, gelatin clarification. It's just a measure of how strong a particular gel concentration is as a gel. It doesn't necessarily mean it's gonna make better marshmallows, because gelatin isn't just used as a gelling agent, it's used as a whipping agent, it's used uh as an emulsifier because it's made of proteins.
+
+[4:20] The way gelatin is made is you take any any form of uh of collagen, connective tissue, all of our connective tissue, most of it, is uh collagen, right? And collagen is a triple helix uh in each one of those uh of proteins, and each one of those helixes, when it's uh denatured properly, turns into gelatin. That's how braised uh products work, right? Uh, you know, you braze until the collagen breaks down and turns into gelatin, which makes the texture delicious and whatnot and whatnot. So animal-based uh uh gelatins come, well, you would guess from animals.
+
+[4:47] A lot of it is from skin, like pig skin, or from bones. When they're doing bones, they they take and they wash the bones in acid for a long time to leach out all the calcium. It leaves a spongy, nasty bone mass, which they then wash uh dry, well neutralize, dry, grind up, and then they they they then uh or the skins or anything else, they take then that raw material, and they usually treat it either with an acid or with with a base, and they get there's two different kinds of gelatin depending on whether they do that. And that uh further kind of um breaks the cross links between this triple helix of proteins, right? Makes it easier for them to extract the gelatin, and then they they uh take and they they heat it in hot water and they extract uh like three, four or five times different gels of different qualities.
+
+[5:28] The first water is the highest strength, uh highest quality gel. And the farther down the extraction line you are, the kind of the crappier your your gel is. But that's how they get uh all the gel out and how they get gels of various different strengths. Um part of the question was uh what's the difference between the powder gel and a sheet gel? And the answer is nothing going into it, right?
+
+[5:46] A sheet gel is uh you take the gel the gelatin solution that you you get out of you know your processed product and you dehydrate it and you spread it into a sheet and let it dry and cut it and put it in a box. Whereas powder gelatin, they extrude into noodles, those noodles are dried out and then uh pulverized in a mill, and then that's the subsequent gel powder. But there's no inherent difference between powder gel, uh powder gelatin and um and uh and sheet gelatin. Now, there is a major difference between fish gelatins and uh like you know, pig or or uh or cow gelatin. There's a you're probably not gonna run into poultry gelatin unless you you know process your own, or you're you're doing like some sort of a uh you know uh chicken skin soup and you you get the gelatin out of it.
+
+[6:28] But um, but pig and and mammal skin gelatins uh are uh pig and sorry, cow uh gelatins are uh fairly you know high strength. This is the one we're we're normally used to using. Fish gelatins can come from one of two sources. Cold water fish make a really crappy gelatin, it barely gels at all. Uh really just it's crap.
+
+[6:46] I mean, it really is horrible. Uh, they're working on it, Nastasha. Did you know that? No. They they're working on it because there are people who would like to have a fish-based gelatin that works.
+
+[6:55] Now, uh, and it has to do with the amino acid makeup of uh of the of the proteins of the connective tissue in in the cold water fish. It's just they suck. What do you want? You know what I mean? Warm water fish, on the other hand, can make uh gel strength that is uh okay, but the problem is is that fish gelatin tends to melt at a lower temperature.
+
+[7:14] So, you know, it it's a lot harder to work with uh a fish-based gelatin and to get a good result. I've you know, I tend to not use it. I I can I kind of uh stay away from it. We tend to use uh sheet gelatin uh for some applications and powdered gelatin for other applications, and uh it's just a matter of which box comes into my hand first, frankly. But uh you shouldn't switch uh bloom strengths uh, you know, or basically the strengths of your gels between different recipes because your results may differ.
+
+[7:41] How's that? That was good. Too much of the right amount? The right amount. The right amount, thank you.
+
+[7:46] You know, it's always nice to have uh at least one booster in your corner. So uh now uh read loyal readers of the blog, uh, if we have any left, because we've only put like we put up like one post every eight years at this point. We're gonna we're gonna get better. We have some cool stuff coming, like the centerfuge video I promised you, uh and a bunch of other uh stuff. But uh I'll give you an idea of stuff we've been working on.
+
+[8:06] Um about a year ago, I think. A year? No, less than that. Are you talking about the first thing? Yeah, yeah.
+
+[8:12] No, eight months, nine months. All right, so Cornell University has this project called Fab at home. And basically it's a three-dimensional uh printer, uh, and they gave us one a while back, and it's to basically they want us to print food with uh with this 3D printer. Now, uh, you know, what is it really? It's a syringe.
+
+[8:29] So that the basically it's a syringe that you fill with paste, any kind of paste, like uh, I don't know, gel paste, goop, meat paste, goop. I mean, it's basically that the the main criteria is that you get a pasty goop, right? Uh but they they they have a new one. Apparently we can now extrude pasta doughs and and masa, which we're gonna work on today, which sounds interesting because cookies. Cookies, they can do cookies.
+
+[8:51] Um so here's the thing, right? Uh it's basically a three-dimensional, it's basically it just very accurately controls the X, Y, and Z axis. It's hooked into a computer, and they accurately control how fast the goop is sprayed out of the syringe. And they have multiple syringes, so you can use different materials. Yada yada yah.
+
+[9:09] Fantastic, right? Now, uh they want us to print food with it. Now, here's the here's the main deal. And CNN, by the way, some money show. Do you know what it's called?
+
+[9:18] CNN Money. Well, that's easy. CNN Money. They're coming to the school today, and uh our buddy, you know, uh Senor Lipton from uh from uh Cornell is here, and we're gonna shoot this thing with it with the television people today. But they have the classic kind of what I think that CNN does, awful idea.
+
+[9:37] I mean horrible, horrible idea that someday you are gonna go home, push a button, and your meal is gonna be printed for you. God, I hope not. You know what I mean? It's just it's just a terrible, terrible idea. And and so, and when I say this to people, they're like, Yeah, but but that's just because the technology's not right.
+
+[9:55] I'm like, no, this is a conceptually horrible idea that we would that we would like grind all of our raw ingredients into uh a Pablum like paste and extrude them into various different shapes and call that a meal goes against basically everything I think is is good about the world. Well, you know, yeah, yeah. But they didn't seem to they weren't listening when I was saying that, right? They that kind of went over their head. Yeah.
+
+[10:21] The whole like I think it's evil. Yes, yeah. So right. Now, there are some fantastic applications for the 3D printer. Uh not my applications, but you know, good applications.
+
+[10:32] For instance, you have a kid's birthday. This thing is like the the wizard icing printing machine of all time. This thing can uh print a three-dimensional uh El Santo wrestling uh like you know, a Martian on top of a cupcake, like without breaking a sweat, right? So for things like kids' birthday parties, where you want to print out, you know, uh one you know cake with the kid's face on it, and then or maybe the kid's face with a dog trying to bite his face off, something like that. Anything like that, anything you've got a model of, you can you can print out onto a cupcake because icing is a straight up awesome paste printing material, right?
+
+[11:08] It's also great if you know if you want to make things out of epoxy or your kids want to make things out of silicone rubber, that's great. We're talking food only, right? Yeah. So icing is great. You can print cookies in the shape of uh, I don't know, like space shuttles, donkeys, whatever.
+
+[11:22] You know what I mean? You could you can print whatever great, great application. Not my application. For me, the you know, I'm obviously not interested in the application that I think is uh, you know, uh one of the roots of all evil thinking in uh the future of food, that we're all gonna live like the Jetsons uh, you know, and have our food in pill form. I mean, that's uh, you know, uh it's God help us if that happens.
+
+[11:43] But uh, you know, I'm waiting for the the killer application where we actually produce a new and delicious food with this printer that uh can't be made any other way. And that's basically why you haven't seen uh a lot of work uh from us out of it because we haven't come up with that killer application. But they you know, there is this new uh technique that we're hopefully gonna try out today where you basically you can print um what looks like uh um you know those like uh how do you describe these, Nastasha? Like you know the squidgy mats that you walk on that are made out of like plastic loopy doodles? Or those flip flops.
+
+[12:16] Yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah, yeah, the squidgy doodle flip-flops. What's the name of the company? Sanook S-A-N-U-K. Yeah, you know, Nastasha knows everything about flip-flops, and I don't because I find them a horror.
+
+[12:27] Like the idea of my heels slipping around and cooking. Yeah, anyway. I hate flip-flops. If any of you, no offense if you own a flip-flop corporation, but you know, uh, you'd sooner see me dead than in a pair of flip-flops. That's just it.
+
+[12:40] You know what I mean? Like, I hate them. I hate everything about them, the noise when they're wet. I mean, everything awful. Like something between my toes.
+
+[12:47] Horrible. Anyway, um, so uh how'd we get on? Oh, yeah. So the material is like that like squidgy material and flip-flops, but he can print it out of any kind of food. So uh we're gonna take MASA dough, which is nictimalized corn, uh, ground into a fine paste.
+
+[13:01] We're gonna try to print this uh basically spongy matte like surface out of the masa and then fry it to get kind of a new snack chip texture. That's gonna be cool, right? Mm-hmm. We're also gonna try to print out some extruded uh some some snacks that uh you know that that can be that be puffed later. I mean the other main problem with with this 3D printing is it's inherently a prototype application, right?
+
+[13:23] So, yes, I can make one space shuttle out of scallop paste, which is what we did the last time we printed something out. But if I really wanted to make space shuttle-shaped scallop uh paste nuggets, right, I would uh make a silicone mold that had like 20 or 30 space shuttles in it, and then I would just, you know, strike mold everything out with an offset spatula and call it call it a day. You know, that I wouldn't I wouldn't bother printing each one because that's a that's a nightmare. So, you know, these are the basic problems with a 3D printer. But if you have any ideas, please call them in ASAP because we're gonna talk to the CNN people today, and there's nothing I'd like more than to say one of our listeners or readers just came up with the killer app.
+
+[14:02] Alright. Alright, let's take a break. Come back, call in all your questions too. 718 497 2128. That's 718 497 2128 cooking issues.
+
+[14:10] How you feel, brother? Feeling good. You feel good? So much bone brother. How do you feel, mate?
+
+[14:17] I'll feel all right. I don't want all people to know you're in here. How you feel, fella? Sure getting down. Look at him.
+
+[14:29] We're gonna have a bunk good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We gotta take you high.
+
+[14:55] Alright. Yeah, let's go on. We gotta take you high. Now I want everybody. Welcome back to Cooking Issues.
+
+[15:13] Call in all of your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. Coming to you live from Brooklyn. Alright, so uh I think we should talk about another project we're working on, not strictly cooking uh related, but generally food related, and that's the uh the food museum. As uh some of you might know, uh the project that I was involved in before I uh joined the French culinary team was to try and start a food museum.
+
+[15:39] And this isn't necessarily a place where well, it isn't a place where you just go look at shellacked pieces of bread and muse over how awesome the food of the past was. I mean, I I this is gonna be a place where you go and you uh you eat, you taste, uh, you learn, you see, you touch. Because I really find that uh not that you shouldn't listen to food radio, uh, but I find that like you know, really if you want to learn about food, you really you have to eat it, you have to see it, you have to touch it, you have to smell it. I mean, that's the that's what food is, you know. I mean, I love reading, uh, you know, I love listening, you know, to ideas, but really, you know, you gotta get out there and taste.
+
+[16:12] Uh that's what you know, Jeffrey Steingart has that, that's one of his big gripes uh about you know, people uh you know who are in the food business, is they want to be in the food business, they want to write about it, but they simply haven't eaten enough. So his whenever you if you any of you out there are ever gonna approach Jeffrey Steingarden, the uh food writer at Vogue, you know, uh fr friend of ours, uh if you're ever gonna approach him and say that you're interested in getting uh started in the food business or specifically in food writing, please, please have a long list of places you have gone and things you have eaten and avoid saying that X, Y or Z is the best uh like avoid saying things like that's the best hamburger, because he's like, Whoa, so you've eaten every hamburger on Earth. I mean, like I'm just telling you, should you ever approach Jeffrey Steingarden uh to ask him for advice, that is my advice to you. Anyway, uh and I think he's he's down with the with the food museum. He's given us he's given us uh things in the past.
+
+[17:01] So anyway, so this is a food museum, and the idea is to have it in in New York. When when we first came up with the idea, uh there wasn't really uh there weren't any food museums uh of the type we were talking about. I mean, there was Copia in um in Napa, which is closed, unfortunately. Um there's a New York food museum, which is about the history of New York food, but it's a museum that's not meant to have a location. Uh there's now the Museum of Southern Food, um, which you know, I haven't been down there, but you know uh but anyway, so the idea is to start one in in New York.
+
+[17:28] And uh Patrick, uh, you know, the uh the jefe of Heritage Foods uh and the the great leader of this uh radio network um like the idea and say, well, let's start this project, this project up again. And so that's why I'm here talking about it. Today we're gonna have a fundraiser on March 27th, uh, which is uh a Sunday yeah uh and it's gonna be held at Del Posto pretty badass I can say that here right yeah badass yeah pretty badass uh you know uh our friend uh Mark Ladner uh graciously agreed to let us have the fundraiser there uh he'll be cooking we haven't confirmed um all the other chefs yet but it's gonna be big anyway uh we're looking to 200 people something like that two ten is the limit two ten is the limit and if you have any questions about it should you wish to go to this fundraiser uh you can email uh Nastasha N Lopez at French Culinary.com. That's n Lopez at French Culinary.com I'll tell you what I'll be making some uh cocktails will you will I not? Okay.
+
+[18:28] Well well maybe Nastasha doesn't want me to I'm gonna strong basically here's what's gonna happen. I'm gonna strong arm and and beat all of my friends and family into submission to work on this damn thing. So I mean they don't they don't even know about it yet but I'm gonna beat on Dave Chang until he says yes. I'm gonna beat on Wiley until he says yes. I'm gonna beat on Dave Wondrich till he says yes uh to make cocktails.
+
+[18:47] So uh if if Audrey's in town I'll beat on her. You know what I mean? It's like this it's gonna be like a full force beat down to try and get as much of the food world uh involved uh well at least our friends in the food world involved in uh I'm gonna give Johnny a beat down Johnny is in I'm gonna give him a beat down. Anyway, so um anyway so that's that's gonna be that's what we're working on uh something that's working on behind the scenes. Another thing we've been working on behind the scenes is our raw food challenge which okay listen listen not a Welcher.
+
+[19:16] I don't want anyone out there to call me a Welcher, but I have to fly to Boca Raton during the week I was supposed to do the raw food uh thing, and that conference that the uh the event that I'm going to involves cooking. Uh and since I will not uh make anything ever that I don't taste before it goes out, I cannot eat raw food during that week. So Nastasha is busy as we speak, rescheduling for one of the first two weeks in February to do the raw food uh extravaganza. But I'll give you some lowdown about what we've tested so far. Bought myself an excalibur dehydrator, right?
+
+[19:56] Which was uh, you know, it's an awesome dehydrator. Uh unfortunately in my house there's no place to to put it, so it's like, you know, up like in the ceiling on top of my printer in a cabinet that can only be accessed on the tallest chair we have, right? That's life. Right. Uh I have I I literally I use my iPhone in camera mode to look and see what the knob is set to, so that I can set the knob.
+
+[20:17] Even at home I'm ghetto. To school, I'm ghetto, at home I'm ghetto, it's always ghetto. Anyway, so um I mean it's not really, I mean, it's an awesome dehydrator. It's just for some reason I have all this great equipment and I managed to make it look stupid by the way I set it up and the horrible conditions I set it up in. That's the story of my life.
+
+[20:33] Something really nice in a pile of filth. That's that's my life in a nutshell, right? Yeah. Something nice in a pile of filth. Anyway, so uh working on uh with the stuff with the dehydrator, um I had Nastasha make a series of sprouts because apparently raw vegan food involves uh a lot of sprouting for various reasons.
+
+[20:53] One, it helps uh grains and things be more easily broken down because as a grain sprouts, uh enzymes go to work, and I guess raw food's all about enzymes anyway. Uh start breaking down some of the starches, making them more uh digestible so that you can uh eat them raw. Uh now, uh Nastasha, how many different things did you sprout? Eight. Eight.
+
+[21:11] So we did mung beans. They didn't look like any mung bean sprouts I've ever had. Like maybe we need to grow them better. You know, I like a mung bean sprout. Like that's the one sprout where I can I will stand up in a hallway and say, hey, you know what, mung bean sprout?
+
+[21:21] You are a good sprout. That is a good sprout among bean sprout, not these. No. But other people seem to enjoy them, right? Did oat oat groats, which Nastasha for some reason thought was oat grout.
+
+[21:30] I don't know why I don't know why you would grout your your tiles with oats, but anyway, oat groats. Apparently she didn't grow up singing the uh oats pea beans and barley groats song. No. Yeah, anyway. Uh so at Zuki beans, uh we did what else do we do?
+
+[21:45] We did lentils. Some of these, by the way, you shouldn't eat raw because they're kind of poisonous. Black-eyed peas, uh, what else? What else do we do? Rye berries.
+
+[21:52] No, we didn't get to do the rye. Something berries. Wheat berries. Wheat berries. All right.
+
+[21:57] Uh wheat berries were not uh were not awful. Right. No, I think that was the only one we the mung berries weren't that. Oh, and we made that stuff rejuvelac, which for those of you that don't know or care, rejuvilac is, you know, you take wheat berries, you let them sprout, and then you s you let them sit in in water to kind of ferment a little bit, and they use that as a Kickstarter for different things. Let me just say that uh um all these sprouts tasted like poison to me.
+
+[22:21] With the exception of the wheat, and I'm not saying this, look, it this is this is good and bad, right? One, I'm not saying that they were bad, because one chef was like, hey, I tasted your sprouts, those are pretty good. I'm like, really? Because to me they tasted like poison. Am I wrong about this?
+
+[22:36] Yeah, like you just sprayed your grass front lawn with poison. Yeah. Poison. Anyway, uh now, but but uh it was good that I had a chef who likes sprouts taste them and say that they were okay because now I know that I just would prefer not to use those things. The wheat sprouts were okay.
+
+[22:53] Yeah, you can use the wheat sprouts. So that's something I'm gonna strike off my list. There's not gonna be any sort of like spur like you know I like the rejuvelac. Yeah, the rejuvilac was good. So the rejuvelac that's like slightly fermented wheat stuff is is good.
+
+[22:59] That's good. I want to see if I can make a raw version of a raw a rye rejuvelac that we can then almost make a kvas out of, which is you know, kvas is like you know, the uh the eastern European Russian fermented uh bread beverage. It's usually made with bread, which is cooked, which means you can't do it, but I want to see if you can do it with just something sprouted. Uh I'm also interested, I don't have time, but I'm interested in trying to work with a raw beer that might be it might be interesting. But anyway, so uh the sprouts taste bad, which means I have to think of something else to do because I didn't like them.
+
+[23:32] We tried another bunch of recipes for uh uh I don't want anyone to get mad. I'm just tasting this, and this is like deciding what I'm gonna eat for this week. We made a bunch of nut cheeses. I don't know why the heck they're called cheeses. They don't taste like cheese.
+
+[23:46] I wasn't there. You didn't taste any of those? It's like basically nuts mixed with rejuvalc and or uh and or orange juice and or you know, and some other stuff, and it into like a mousy paste, and they're used, I guess, as a kind of a cottage cheese replacement in vegan cheese. But you know what they the problem with them is fundamentally is I really like cheese a lot. Cheese to me has a specific texture and taste, which these don't have.
+
+[24:13] I mean, like, could you make a delicious raw nut mousse? Yeah. Yeah, not this. I'm not gonna I was like, no. We did do an interesting thing where we mixed, we soaked a bunch of nuts because you have to uh soak some of these nuts when they're raw because they haven't been roasted and there's stuff in them you want to get out.
+
+[24:27] So we soaked uh macadamias, pistachios, uh sunflower. Uh we didn't have any raw cashews left in the house. We didn't do that. So sunflower seeds, uh shelled, thank God, uh, and almonds all raw. Uh we we uh I put them through a champion juicer, uh, and then after they were soaked, and then we took the paste uh and we squeezed it out, and that actually was really good.
+
+[24:49] It had a really good texture, the oil separated out, and we were able to make little balls that had actually a really good texture. So that will be it's an expensive dish because it had all those nuts and soaked and everything, but you know, that will will probably just seem really expensive and a lot of work, unnecessary work. It's just eat. Yeah, well, now you know it's not unnecessary if the goal is to eat raw. I mean, that the my main problem so far is is that you know I can it's it it does take a lot of pre work to do the the raw the raw food thing.
+
+[25:22] And in our space, we need space. But I mean I can do it, I do it at home, it's not the issue. The issue is is it takes a a lot of work to do it right. Now I'm thinking, now look, let's say you actually ate raw food. Like this is what you did.
+
+[25:35] You ate raw food, right? Who has this level of time to devote to always being three days out? Now I'm sure some of these things become staples. You always have sprouts in your fridge, you always have rejuvenaca brewing, you always have, you know, whatever, whatever cultures are going and you get it to go, you know what I mean? But uh in the absence of that, I mean you'd probably l like you know, like the everyone's image of what raw food people eat, which is the sitting around eating carrots all day.
+
+[26:01] I mean, I could see how you would devolve into that because it's easier. It's it's a heck of a lot easier. You know what I mean? Like these raw food restaurants have to jump through some serious, serious hoops to kind of do the things that they do. Now, the last great experiment, I'm hoping this works really, really well, is the uh marination of vegetable partial dehydration to simulate kind of a roasted flavor.
+
+[26:24] Although I don't even know why you'd have to call it roasted, it's just we can't we say it makes a nice texture out of it. So we'll play with some mushrooms, uh, we'll play with some other things. But barring that, I'm just gonna have to do something like r radically ignore all of the raw food advice that I've gotten. Although, like I said, when I ate at Sarma's restaurant, Sarma Mel and Gaia is a pure food, you know, I liked a good deal of what was put out. You know, so it's not like it can't be done, but I mean I we have to think of our own way of doing it, something that's good.
+
+[26:51] So we're gonna use a rotovap. I'm gonna make uh some low temperature distillates, make all of you uh raw food people out there totally jealous because I'm gonna be drinking sweet, sweet booze that's never been heated, uh uh distilled illegally in my roto vap, right? Um and uh when what else do you want? We can do reductions also low temperature. So we'll be able to do uh fruit reductions that are totally low temp.
+
+[27:15] That's gonna be awesome. We can use enzymes, uh we can use our our pectinase enzymes to break things down to do clarifications. We're gonna make some bang up sauces uh with that kind of stuff. I'm extremely interested in trying to get some transglutaminase that doesn't have maltodextrin, because unfortunately that's been cooked, and doesn't have uh casein because that's not vegan, or gelatin because that's not obviously not vegan, uh, to see whether or not we can strengthen uh nut nut paste um and other other you know suspensions with proteins in them in the absence of heat. Uh I think that could be an interesting uh test, so I'm gonna try and run that.
+
+[27:51] And that shouldn't be uh you know, that shouldn't be a problem for the vegans, right? No. I mean it's an enzyme. Like for raw vegans, it's an enzyme, and it's not animal based, it's microbial based fermentation, so it it shouldn't be a problem. So that's our raw food progress.
+
+[28:04] We welcome any sort of advice. Uh, you know, we've read uh Matthew Kenny's books, we've read uh Sarma's books, we've read uh who's that guy that you really like. Well, there's this guy, I don't know him, but he's got the craziest pictures in his cookbook. His name is you think it's Juliano or Juliano? Probably Juliano.
+
+[28:20] Juliano? Yeah. So we have these uh these books. We have uh Trotter Trotter, what's the name of the woman working with Trotter? Her raw raw.
+
+[28:28] And the problem is like like the and and these cookbooks are good. Right. They're good. I mean they really are. They're they're well done.
+
+[28:36] It's just like, you know, some of the raw ingredients I have issues with, like sprouts, I just detest them. Uh I really do. I wish I could like them. I've never liked them growing up, especially alfalfa sprouts. I can't think of anything I'd less rather have caught in my teeth than alfalfa sprouts.
+
+[28:50] I think the problem is is that even like people who like people who not raw food people, but any any people. People like pea shoots, right? Most people like pea shoots. Guess who doesn't like pea shoots? You.
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+[29:00] Yeah. I mean, I'll eat them. They're not vile, but uh, that kind of raw, starchy taste, I'm averse to. And so since that is inherent in almost every sprout. I like pea shoots.
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+[29:11] I remember Brooks put them in a dessert with strawberry ice cream. Brooks is the pastry chef of Del Posto, one of our favorite pastry chefs. Yeah, I'm sure it's I mean look, everyone in the world likes it except for me. So I'm not saying that you know, I'm right here. I'm clearly wrong.
+
+[29:25] Clearly, pea shoots are delicious, and uh, you know, I find them merely, you know, not awful. You know, uh, but it's that starchy sweet taste that uh I'm not really down with. Anyway, let's go to our second commercial break and come back. Still time to call in two 718-497-2128. 718-497-2128 cooking.
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+[29:44] You feel good? So much bone brother. I feel bellows! We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time.
+
+[30:14] We're gonna have a bump good time. We gotta take your high. We gotta take the high brother. Yeah. Now I won't have a body.
+
+[30:46] And then I wanna wave you and let's go and do it every day. Now alright. Welcome back to Cooking Issues. Uh 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128.
+
+[30:57] Coming to you from rainy slushy Brooklyn. Okay. Uh, so uh, interesting little story. We were on uh You were on you well, yeah, you were in the studio audience. Uh at the Martha Stewart show.
+
+[31:10] Uh what was that? Like maybe two months ago? Mm-hmm. Anyway, uh Nastasha never lets me uh forget it because I was supposed to complete three cocktails. Then it was cut down to two.
+
+[31:22] Jesus, you know, look. So Nastash's like, you only made it through three quarters of the cocktail. You're an idiot. You're a moron. Why couldn't you make it through it?
+
+[31:29] You're useless. Anyway, my point is is that most of the time when you do demos, the person you're demoing in front of is basically just there kind of reacting. Whereas when Martha Stewart is there with the demo with you, Martha Stewart asks you questions that relate to how things work, and you don't just tell Martha Stewart, she has you met your wife. Not on air. I thought she asked how you met your wife.
+
+[31:54] What? And it completely stuck to you. Well, that's easy. I met my wife in college. Stop making the cocktail.
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+[32:00] Yeah, Nastasha's like, keep plowing through it. Crap on Martha. Who does she think she is to ask you a question about cooking? For real. Anyway, uh, so anyway, so I didn't make it through uh all of the steps that I was supposed to make it through on the program.
+
+[32:16] I made it Nastash's right. I made it about three quarters of the way through uh gin and tonic. I was able to show uh Martha the uh the liquid nitrogen trick of pulverizing uh grapefruit uh pips and blood orange pips into their individual, not really pips, pips or seeds, you know, the fruit, the vesicles, the juice vesicles, pulverize them into individual uh things so that they float around and look pretty. And I knew Martha would love that because you know, if there's anyone in the world that likes a pastel color, it's Martha Stewart, right? So here's what happens.
+
+[32:44] At the at the end of the show, Martha's like, yeah, that's great. I'm figuring she's you know blowing shunshine up my you know what, and uh they have and she's like, that's great. Yeah, I'm like, hey, well, you know, if you're ever interested in any of this stuff, and I demonstrated a centrifuge clarifying uh lime juice and a centrifuge using a combination of agar, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah. Centerfuge. Uh so uh blah, blah, blah.
+
+[33:04] So and part of the segment was kind of what an eBay ninja I am, and how I was able to get my centrifuge for a hundred dollars on eBay because they I forget that one was because they spelled it like like No, no, no. That one was because Oh, the that one was the the dead fuse. I had a blown fuse in it. Uh the other one I got was because they spelled it s like centrofuge. You know, and I uh I j by the way, eBay friends out there, I just bought a hundred and sixty liter liquid nitrogen duter doer used, but retail value, brand new, two thousand dollars, and uh eBay value ten one thousand to twelve hundred dollars in that range for like three hundred bucks because they spelled nitrogen wrong.
+
+[33:44] Hello. I feel a little bit guilty, actually, frankly, taking advantage of people who spell nitrogen wrong. No way survival of the fittest. Wow. And that's why we call her the hammer, folks.
+
+[33:55] You don't get to see it very often, but that's why they call her the hammer. Anyway, so uh I'm like, you know, Martha, you know, if you ever need anything with this tech stuff, I figure she's not gonna ask me because Grant Aiken's from a liney is right there. Grant's coming on the show, by the way, in uh Spring. Spring, but 'cause he has a new book coming out that I actually have the galleys of. It's a you know kind of a more of a memoir, not a cookbook, more of a memoir.
+
+[34:13] But uh coming on the show, I guess March or something like that, so looking forward to that. Maybe we can get Mirville nominees out sometime. Yeah. His book's coming out soon. Yeah.
+
+[34:21] Well maybe we can get McGee next week. Is he in in town on Tuesday? Anyway, we'll get maybe we'll get you some good guess. Anyway, uh because we haven't gotten a guess in like eight billion years, but we'll get you some good guess. Anyway, what the hell was I talking about?
+
+[34:32] Oh yeah. Martha. So Martha is sitting there uh and I'm like figuring she's not gonna ask me for anything. And the next day her uh the assistant calls, her assistant calls and says, Hey, Martha wants a centrifuge. I'm like, Really?
+
+[34:46] Yeah, like for the show? She's like, No, for her house. I'm like, all right, what's your budget? And Martha is so kind of love the fact that I'm this kind of scrounging, you know, person who glues everything together with duct tape and bubblegum. Quality and filth.
+
+[35:00] Quality and filth. Uh that she's like, I don't know, three hundred bucks? I'm like, what? This is something I swear that if you want to buy one that is uh in working condition, that's good, that you trust with your with your family, let's say, right? That's a twelve hundred dollar that's a twelve hundred to fifteen hundred dollar problem, right?
+
+[35:18] New, we're talking a seven thousand dollar to ten thousand dollar pr uh problem. Wiley Dufrein just had his got his new center futures doing some interesting stuff actually. Wiley called me and says that like he's and uh now I kick myself, he's churning butter in it. That's pretty cool. That's cool.
+
+[35:31] That's cool. I shouldn't maybe have said that on the air. He's churning butter with it. Anyway, so the uh um so she's like three hundred bucks because she wants to get like the coolest bargain. She wants to be part of the the eBay bargain thing.
+
+[35:42] I was like, you realize for three hundred dollars, I'm gonna have to buy a broken one and pray I can fix it and that it hasn't been, you know, dipped in too much feces that I can't clean off. So these are all have all sorts of nasty blood and blah blah blah. I mean they're all they're hardcore, right? So uh she's like uh that's okay, I can wait. So eventually we did f yeah, right.
+
+[36:03] So we did find one, thing was was dead totally. Yeah, and but you know, look, again like anything else with eBay, it's the uh it's I was reading the description to see kind of what was wrong with it, like how it was broken, and then kind of praying that I can fix it. And I determined that because the motor could spin freely and the tachometer still worked and everything powered up, that if I was lucky, right, it was a problem either with a wire leading to the motor, that would be the best. Or it was uh a problem with the actual uh brushes, because these are brush and mo motors, so there's carbon brushes that are in it that uh basically uh transfer the the uh you know electricity from the winding uh out you know back to the thing and so these go bad after a while, and if someone's a jerk and they haven't replaced them, then everything goes south and the machine stops working. Well, lo and behold, it was the brushes.
+
+[36:49] So uh, you know, you bought a center fuge for under three hundred bucks. I think we paid two. Two something, it was three fifty altogether. With shipping and everything, right? And refrigeration works great.
+
+[36:59] Replace the brushes. That was a six dollar, no, sixteen after I could buy two sets of brushes. Sixteen dollar problem. And boom, Martha's got a centrifuge. So as soon as she gets her uh self back in the country, uh Martha Stewart's gonna be rocking with the cooking issues uh she'd love to do that.
+
+[37:16] She's gonna churn some butter, she's gonna we're gonna give her a starter kit of enzymes. Really? Well, why not? She's Martha Stewart. You know what I mean?
+
+[37:23] I guarantee you, Martha Stewart's got some fancy fruit, right? That she can clarify in that centrifuge. So that's our first celebrity hookup where we're hooking a celebrity up with some high tech equipment, and that's cooking issues for this week with Martha Stewart Centerfuge. Join us next week for cooking issues.
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+[0:00] The following program has been brought to you by Tabbered Inn. Feast on eclectic American cuisine in their acclaimed restaurant or enjoy a cocktail and listen to live jazz in one of their cozy Victorian sitting areas. Mingle with travelers from around the world who find the tabard the only place to stay when their travels bring them to Washington. For more information, visit www.tabered in dot com Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues, the show where you call in or email in all of your cooking related questions, technical or not. I'm Dave Arnold, the host of Cooking Issues here with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez.
+
+[0:44] Cooking Issues uh big old hammer, bringing the hammer down on all you people that don't behave. Although we've never had anyone not behave actually. We've never actually had to use your hammer. I think you're just so frightening. Right.
+
+[0:54] Yeah, yeah, that's it. Okay, so calling all your questions live to the studio at 718-497-2128, 718-497-2128. Uh here for the next 45 minutes or so, so uh please call in your questions. Um so uh what's going on here, Nastasha? I'm flying out to Florida today, right?
+
+[1:12] Yeah. Yeah. Did you look over the stuff? No, of course not. But they don't need to know that.
+
+[1:16] Uh by the way, uh if well, it is true. I'll give you a partial announcement now, but uh in in the near future, you know, we might be open to consulting kinds of situations. Uh but just so you know, should you ever hire uh me, Nastasha, which is a cooking issues team at this point, uh, should you ever uh hire us for anything, uh we're not gonna think about your problem until it's actually time to think about your problem. That's well, we'll try to break him of that if we can. Sure.
+
+[1:46] So speaking of thinking about problem, last week we came on the show and we asked uh for any sort of suggestions as to what to do with our 3D printer. Because we have this 3D printer that was given to us by the Fab at home uh guys at Cornell. It's a it prints basically it's a syringe that moves around in three dimensions and squeezes out, you know, at a at a very precise rate any sort of paste, any paste that you want. And they wanted to come up with a good food application, and uh we didn't for about eight months, we didn't come up with one. And uh, you know, finally a couple people have called to interviewed me actually about what I thought about 3D food printing, and I always said pretty much the same thing, which is no one's thought of a really good application yet, and you know, I think it's a you know there's no need to print, you know, the Mickey Mouse in the in the you know out of uh out of turkey paste.
+
+[2:30] I mean there's just no need for it because I can you know I could I could I could make a Mickey Mouse mold and then spread I'm going to Orlando today, which is why I'm thinking about it. Is a you you know make a Mickey Mouse mold and spread it into uh into a silicone you know thing, then I could make a whole bunch of turkey things that way. So I never thought that like weird shapes was an interesting application for me for uh 3D printer. And uh lo and behold, we came up with this what I thought was uh a good idea in conjunction with Jeffrey Lipton, who uh runs the uh program, the Fab at Home program up at Cornell, and it was well, uh we're gonna take w what I think is one of the ultimate pastes of all time, which is masa dough, nixtamalized corn. I mean, it's you know, what's better than masa, Nastasha?
+
+[3:10] Anything? You're going to Boca. Oh, eh, whatever. Florida. Anyway, so is there anything better than uh anything?
+
+[3:16] No offense to Florida. No offense to Florida, but you know, it's just not my not my place. So I hate the sun, I hate, you know, flat landscapes, and you know, Spanish moss is okay. Anyway, whatever. Uh so the uh but in anything better than masa, right?
+
+[3:28] So uh we had this thing where we print out this squiggly shape of masa and it looks great and it has a great texture like shredded wheat and it but it tastes awesome like a tortilla chip. I thought it was fantastic. CNN shows up, we give them this long song and dance about you know what these applications are good for. You know, what the printers are really good for coming up with maybe with new textures or for you know um ideation, thinking about new ways to make things, uh, and they basically you know and what I say what I'm not interested in is this whole idea that in the future it's gonna be the Jetsons or Star Trek and you're gonna push a button and and all of a sudden your meal is gonna come out. And you know, for instance, there's nothing I think worse in the world than thinking that if you press a button your meal is gonna is gonna pop out.
+
+[4:08] I mean, what could be more horrific to a cook than thinking that we're totally going to remove human beings from the cooking process and furthermore, you know, get us even further away from uh you know from the from the food chain from where our food comes from from the from the whole food supply system to a point where we don't care that everything that's served to us, you know, comes in a tube and is extruded out of a syringe into random shapes. Honey, what shape do you want your turkey paste in tonight? We had Mickey yesterday. Uh goofy? I mean, seriously, like what like what is that, right?
+
+[4:39] Right. It's crazy. Anyway, so we I thought we had one over the uh CNN money people, and yesterday I looked at the CNN money piece on the web, and I was horrified to see that what they took away from it was that in the future we will basically print turkey paste. You knew that. We spoke about that.
+
+[5:01] I felt like we had made a connection with them and uh and that they kind of you know underst like understood at least our point of view that that was a horrible, horrible, horrible idea. Anyway, uh go read our post on it to see what we what we think about it. That's a enough enough diatribe, right? Enough diatribe for today. All right.
+
+[5:20] So uh we have a uh a quick couple questions in from uh John Meyer. Uh met him what, yesterday, day before? Yes. Uh and first question is on uh cheese tempering. So the question is, hey, listen, I bought some cheese and I put it in my fridge.
+
+[5:32] You know, I think maybe that was, you know, maybe the first mistake, put it in the fridge. I mean, depends. If you're gonna buy the cheese today, I would never put it in the fridge. We'll get into that. I have cheese, it's in the fridge, I forgot to take it out.
+
+[5:42] Or I bought it uh, you know, you know, right before I went to somebody's house and it was in the refrigerated case at the store, the store doesn't know how to keep their cheese, XYZ, whatever. And uh the problem is now I have to eat it. What can I do besides throwing it in the oven and or or the microwave, or just waiting for a couple of hours? Well, I feel your pain, uh, John, I really do. I remember once I uh flew back from France and I smuggled in my favorite my I think my favorite cheese in the world, which is Vachram Mondor.
+
+[6:09] My wife used to have to go out to France uh to Paris every January for a trade show, and I would go out with her and I would, you know, just basically uh swim through like like w wheel after wheel of Vachram Mondor, and you know, you cut off the top, you scoop it out, you eat it all in there really is almost no better experience on earth than crusty bread and Vachra Mondor. Just d you know, that's it. That's the kind of the apogee so far in my life. I mean uh anyway, hopefully it gets better. Right?
+
+[6:33] I mean you don't really have the like you know the ultimate food experience like that, and then you know you're only not even forty yet, and then that's it. Anyway, uh so the um so I smuggled this thing back, and I'm planning on having Sunday family dinner because every Sunday I have family dinner, the family comes over to my house and we know we cook a big meal. And uh uh horror of horror, it was put in the fridge. Uh I won't say, you know, I won't say by whom. It was put in the fridge and uh there wasn't enough time to temper the thing out.
+
+[7:03] And uh, and I was I was you know it was just the it was one of the worst food experiences in my life because it tasted good. I put it in the oven, but it it tasted good, but it wasn't it, you know, the the the greatest thing in in the world. It wasn't what it should have been. Like here you smuggle this wheel of cheese back, you think it should be the greatest thing in the world. It wasn't.
+
+[7:19] So I definitely feel your pain, John. Here are my suggestions to you. One, if you're buying cheese, just don't put it in the dang fridge. If you have a wine cooler, put it in the wine cooler, let it sit there, unless it's gonna go for a very long time, it's gonna be fine, or something like a mozzarella. Even when I buy mozzarella, I buy it, I don't put it in the fridge.
+
+[7:33] Even if I buy it in the morning, I'm gonna eat it in the evening, I don't put it in the fridge. Because I know I'm gonna put it in the fridge or freeze it after I'm done that first day, because I don't carry it over to the second day anyway, because that I use it for cooking at that point. And mozzarella really will be okay in a cool spot uh for the whole day. You don't need to you don't need to worry about it. That's one.
+
+[7:50] I should also further say that there are some people, I'm not one of them, but there are some people that that feel that cheeses should be served a lot cooler than we serve them in general, that they should be served at cellar temp, basically at your wine cooler temp. I don't agree with that, but there's some very you know fine cheese sources that that do say that. Okay, so one is just don't ever put it in the fridge. This would be my first recommendation. Um second would be you could, and this doesn't apply to soft cheeses like Vachron or things like that, but the harder cheeses, and I hate this, but you could do this, you could cut the cheese up into slices beforehand, uh, cover it with a layer of plastic wrap and chamber them because they'll chamber very rapidly if they're cut into pieces.
+
+[8:26] I happen to not like that because I hate the look of the cheese as it warms up, sweating out, or the fat coming up to the top. I don't prefer precise cheese, but this is definitely an option if there's no uh uh other alternative. Now, on the subway over here, I thought of a third alternative that you might want to look at that I've never actually tried, but I guarantee it will work. That is take tap water, turn it on so that the uh temperature of the tap water is roughly uh in the mid 80s, so slightly below your body temperature, but slightly warmer than your normal tap water, which is probably running between 50, depends on where you live, but could be as high as 60 or 70 uh degrees. Uh put it up to about 80 degrees um and then uh put your cheese in a Ziploc bag and uh use the instructions on the cooking issue blog uh under the uh low temperature primer on which I need to finish, geez.
+
+[9:12] Uh uh how to package things in ziplocks. Basically you put it in a ziploc and you immerse the thing uh in the ziploc underwater to force out the air, you close it, then keep that Ziploc bag in the running tap water at the right temperature, and it will chamber lickety split without the water getting on the cheese and without overheating it, because I really find there's no good way to temper out cheese in a microwave or in an oven without uh ruining a good portion of it. What do you think, Steph? I think that's a good answer. Yeah, good answer.
+
+[9:38] All right, good, thanks. Uh okay. Uh uh second question from John is uh I saw Richard Blaze on uh on on uh his television program, uh was trying to make pizza, threw a bunch of binshootan uh charcoal in there and got his oven up to you know eight hundred, nine hundred degrees Fahrenheit. That's a good trick. I hadn't thought oh the question is is it gonna ruin your oven?
+
+[9:56] Is it safe, etc. etc.? Well, that's that's a separate question. But uh I I feel that that would uh that would work. I mean I have electric uh I have electric heaters, electric stone heaters in the bottom and top of my oven to jack the temperature up to uh 850.
+
+[10:10] Uh that that that's how I do it, but it c you could definitely light uh coals in your uh in your oven. Here are the caveats. One, the Japanese have been cooking with coal indoors for a long time. Uh every bag of coal that you purchase will say right on it that you're not allowed to cook it inside. And the reason is they don't want to generate a a lot of smoke and b a lot of carbon monoxide.
+
+[10:29] So, you know, um one, I would say that if you're gonna burn coal inside of your kitchen, you better have some good ventilation. That's one. Please have some have some good ventilation. Uh but that said, places that do have good ventilations do do it inside. Although no one in the United States will tell you it's safe.
+
+[10:43] Okay. Secondly, he's using binshoton charcoal, which is an extremely expensive form of Japanese charcoal, which theoretically they say gives off less smoke than our standard ordinary charcoal here in the US. However, if you buy real hardwood charcoal that you open it up and the thing looks like it was a piece of wood back in the day and is now a piece of charcoal, I mean, I don't know how much better the binchoton can be than that stuff. It burns fairly clean for uh a charcoal you can get here and isn't that expensive. They carry it at home depot, they carry it at some stores.
+
+[11:16] So you you could do that. Now, uh it's gonna like I don't bencheton or whatever, you know, Kingsford briquettes, don't use Kingford's briquettes in your oven. But any of these things, nothing against the Kingsford Corporation. But any of these things, no matter what, are gonna generate some carbon monoxide, so you need to be aware of that and you need to to ventilate it properly. The third thing is are you gonna damage the oven?
+
+[11:36] Uh well, it's possible. I don't depends on what your oven is made out of. I mean, I would elevate the stuff on a grate. You're gonna need to make sure that air can you have a sufficient air supply in your oven to get it uh started. Uh and I would also put uh a heat shield uh above it, like a a piece of steel or something above the direct uh flame.
+
+[11:56] So if you were to build the uh the put your pizza stone in the bottom of the oven, then build the binshoton on top of that, then have some sort of like a a deflector shield above in case you get a roaring fire up. And I please try not to get a roaring fire. Uh it it I think theoretically is possible. Also don't overload it, don't go crazy. You're you're basically just trying to get an extra hundred or two degrees out of it because your oven's probably gonna make it up to five fifty and you're only looking for an extra couple hundred degrees out of it.
+
+[12:23] So it's I think the idea is just to not go uh super crazy with the amount of uh of coal that you put in, right? Yeah, but uh he lives in New York, so he's right. He does? Yeah. Ugh, well, if it's a rental, then go ahead.
+
+[12:37] Do it. Uh then when your landlord comes, be like, huh? What? Yeah. Uh yeah.
+
+[12:43] If you're if you're in New York, uh, I doubt you have decent ventilation. I'll tell you a little story. I might have told this on the radio once already. I did. Yeah.
+
+[12:51] Uh I once lit enough coal in my house. I have a good hood. I once lit enough coal in my house to ignite the small hibachi that I had uh uh put into it and uh yeah, almost got me divorced. You know, not yeah. Anyway, so be careful.
+
+[13:05] Be careful. Although I have seen people light bins uh charcoal inside our amphitheater at the school and not have uh basically any smoke at all. Because you know, they would light it on top of the uh gas burners. They would ignite it and then they'd pull it off, and it is fairly clean burning, more clean burning than most of most of our charcoals. Uh, but again, only use it for that extra couple uh hundred degrees to pump up.
+
+[13:28] Alright, so listen, uh we're gonna have you call in all your questions too. 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. We're gonna go to our first commercial break, cooking issues. Hello!
+
+[13:38] How you feel, brother? Feeling good? You feel good? So much bone bell. How you feel, man?
+
+[13:45] I'm feeling nice. I don't want all people to know you're in here. How you feel, bellow? Sure getting down. Look at him!
+
+[13:57] We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. Don't take him up, friend.
+
+[14:23] All right. We gotta take you high. Now I won't have a body. Let red blow up you call us a big. Welcome back to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[14:44] Calling your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. I hear we have a caller. Hello, caller, you're on the air. Hey, I was listening to the first part of the show, and uh I also find that things are bad when they're put in the fridge.
+
+[14:58] What is why is that? What is the chemical reaction happening that takes taste away from like vegetables and cheeses and meats and like cured meats when they're actually put in a cold space? That's a very interesting question. Uh, I think you know the w everything's different with different uh with different products. So, you know, uh in tomatoes, it's it's the texture that gets ruined of the tomato, never to come back.
+
+[15:22] Uh cheese, a lot of it is reversible. Uh, we did a study once uh where we took uh balls of mozzarella, uh fresh ones, all from the same batch, and we refrigerated some uh and then let them chamber for a long time back, and we and uh it's posted on the blog, but a long time ago, and um we did, you know, it most of it actually does come back. We think there is some effect that putting it in the in the fridge ever hurts its texture irrevocably, but it's not as much as we generally think because uh the texture of cheeses is so dependent on temperature that even a couple of degrees in the center of like a ball of mozzarella or something like that means the difference between it being, you know, uh delicious and you know oo oozy, you know, awesome and and being rubbery, right? So it's like part of it is the fact that I think we never do allow something enough time to uh to chamber up. But I mean also like like something like cured meats also uh haven't run a side by side clearly out of the like you know, everyone says when you're tasting cured meats when they're cold, you know, put 'em on your tongue, let them warm up.
+
+[16:25] But it's not I mean, look, it's not the same thing as having a piece of meat served to you at the right temperature and not having to like lay it on your tongue for thirty seconds to try and warm it up. Do you know what I'm saying? So um with that I don't know what the actual uh problem is. I mean th like certain effects like this, like with cheese, the the question is uh or tomatoes. This happens just from the the temperature change.
+
+[16:48] And then there's problems with the refrigerator itself. So uh, you know, like uh or freezer, right, which could be desiccating, it could be removing moisture, it could be uh adding really bad aromas. Most fridges, like you know, for most fridges have awful aromas on the inside of them. Just turn off the fridge, which allows the volatiles to become, you know, kind of uh you know better for your nose, and you can see kind of the nasty things that are going on in your fridge. But um I'd have to research kind of other like which rich which vegetables do you have in mind as being never as good when they're in the fridge.
+
+[17:17] Some by the way, are never as good uh after they're stored, period, because you change their metabolism. Most of these vegetables a lot of vegetables are basically still alive when they're being pulled, right? And so uh, you know, you you alter their metabolism rate, you change their metabolism rate, and they just are turning to crap anyway. So the fact that you're putting it in the fridge and storing it for longer means you're reducing its quality. Does that make sense?
+
+[17:37] Absolutely. Alright. Well, I'll look into this more. Maybe we'll talk about it, right, Nastasha? Right.
+
+[17:41] We'll look at we'll look into this more. And we'll talk about it more. All right. Did I hear another ring? Do we have someone in or out?
+
+[17:48] No. Okay. So I have another question then from John. And this is a this is a doozy. This is going to take a while.
+
+[17:54] So dig yourself in, Nastasha. Nastasha's gonna actually have to pay attention instead of I don't know, doing whatever she normally does. Drift off into sleep while I'm speaking. And uh the question is, uh, and this was actually posed to me by several people uh in the past couple of days. Why is it or how is it that we use ice, we use salt to melt ice on the roads, right?
+
+[18:13] Although we're usually using calcium chloride, not sodium chloride, but principle's the same. Uh why do we do that? Uh and at the same time, when we're in a kitchen, if we want to make something really, really cold, we want to keep our stuff cold, we dump salt onto ice. So in one case, uh it seems like we're using it to melt it, which seems like we're warming it up, and in the other case, we're using it to actually cool it down to make it you know colder. And so what's going on?
+
+[18:37] Seems like a contradiction, right? Right. It's not. It's not a contradiction. Uh and this is something that is actually uh poorly explained by uh most high school teachers when when uh you're learning it, not by my high school teacher, Mrs.
+
+[18:50] Zook, my chemistry teacher was awesome, but and maybe that's where the reason why where I am today. But uh, but uh well there's a lot of things. I never had snow in California, so I think Oh, nanny nanny, nanny nanny poo-poo. All right. So uh, you know, I come from a place where we have seasons where I don't have to drive to see snow.
+
+[19:06] Uh so uh no offense, California. Uh okay, so here's what's going on. Uh when you add uh it's it's all it it's actually kind of complicated, but you know, bear with me. It it's all about a fight between uh uh heat, enthalpy, and entropy, right? So here's what happens.
+
+[19:25] In order to melt ice, uh you need heat. That makes sense, right, Nastasha? Yes. You need heat to m to melt ice, right? And the reason why is because ice is at a lower energy uh than water at the same temperature.
+
+[19:37] So in order to make it from ice into water, you have to add energy. And that that's called the the heat of fusion, right? And that that takes about 80 calories, uh, 80 calories per per mole, right? So every uh every gram no per gram. Uh whatever.
+
+[19:54] Anyway, 80 cal melting one gram of water is enough. I'll put it this way melting one gram of water, I believe, is enough uh energy uh to raise that same gram of water 80 degrees again. That's how much energy it is. So it's not insubstantial, right? It's a lot of energy.
+
+[20:07] It's called the heat effusion. Um it requires energy uh to melt to melt the ice. Now, uh which means right that that things want to be at a lower energy, so at you know, in general, uh things want to turn into ice to go into that lower, lower energy state to give off that uh, you know, that heat and become ice. Now, uh there's a competing principle here, which is things like to be disordered. Entropy, right, is basically uh how much uh disorder there is in a system and the s and the universe wants to be disordered, chaotic, have uh, you know, lots of different states available for everything, maximum chaos, you know, like our lives.
+
+[20:44] And um and and so what happens is is that um at zero degrees where ice normally melts, it's the point at which the amount of uh the amount of entropy, right? The the the the amount of heat that you have to um that you have to add to to melt the ice is balanced by the amount of entropy uh gain you get from from melting it. It's not making any sense to people. Read it on our blog, it'll make make more sense. But it's this fight between enthalpy and entropy, and it's all balanced on uh temperature.
+
+[21:17] When you add salt to the system, right, what happens is is that now there's it's it's more states of disorder that water can be in when it's in um when it's in the solution with the salt. So therefore, right, uh the entropy win is greater and the temperature at which the stuff freezes drops. So now you can forget everything I said for the last three minutes because I'm sure it didn't make any sense. Read it on our blog and keep this in your head. When you add w uh ice to uh add salt to ice, what you're doing is making it so that uh everything wants to freeze at a lower temperature.
+
+[21:51] And we all know that you know salt water freezes at a lower temperature than ice, right? So here's what goes on. In order for the ice to melt into salt water, you need to have heat. Heat needs to go into the system to do it. But where's the heat going to come from, Nastasha?
+
+[22:08] Where's the heat going to come from? No. The heat's gonna come from the ice. The heat's gonna come from the ice. So when you take a big block of salt uh ice and you add salt on it, right?
+
+[22:19] Like the ice is gonna start to melt into the salt, it's gonna form a brine, but in order to do it, it's gonna require heat. That heat has to come from the block of ice because that's the easiest way for it to get. It's not gonna suck it out of the air because that's not fast enough. And so the entire block of ice along with the salt brine is gonna get colder. And that's what happening when you're making your Mizon Place, right?
+
+[22:38] Now, if there's not enough ice there, right, to all get colder and not melt, you melt it all out, right? Furthermore, if you let it sit there for a long time, energy is gonna go into the air and then it's gonna keep remelting more. So it's basically uh the same thing happens. When you put salt on ice on a road, initially the whole block of ice is gonna get colder, right? And then it's eventually going to uh to melt off alonging you as long as you've depressed the freezing point uh long enough uh h low enough such that it uh it can't freeze in your ambient atmosphere.
+
+[23:14] And that temperature where it's gonna freeze right in ambient atmosphere in a fully saturated salt solution is quite low, like you know, in the minus tens. Uh so it's uh so the system all works and it's not a contradiction, and that didn't make a damn bit of sense. No one's gonna understand what the hell I was talking about. You should have your old chemistry teacher on. Mrs.
+
+[23:31] Hook? We should have Mrs. Hook on. Uh, but you can go on the blog and look up cocktail science, the very first cocktail science we uh post, I posted about a year and a half ago, has a much more lucid and easier to follow, easier to reread uh explanation of it, and I apologize for uh kind of going all over the place. What do you think?
+
+[23:49] Did it make any damn sense at all? We have a caller. We have a caller, even though that made no damn sense at all. All right, caller, you're on the air. Hopefully I'll make more sense.
+
+[23:56] Oh, hi, sorry, this is Antonette. Um I have a question that's completely off topic. So I don't know if uh if you want to wait for me a few more minutes to go through the ice. Well, no, no, no, well how how off topic? Let's hear it.
+
+[24:07] Like really, like something about cars? No, I was wondering, have you read uh Andrew Bear's Mark Twain's feast? Uh no, I haven't. Tell me a little bit about it. It's he c he goes through Twain's A Tramp Abroad, and Twain went through how he loved all these American foods that no longer exist, and uh he tries to recreate all these dishes from the eighteen hundreds.
+
+[24:30] Oh, how is it? It's all it's it's I recommend it. I I I do recommend it. I love I love Twain. I mean I love Twain, he's one of the great kind of you know funny misanthropic writers, you know, of America, wouldn't you think?
+
+[24:44] I no, I definitely I I agree. That's why I I think you'll like this book. I definitely recommend you get it. And um what I was calling about is Twain apparently liked his coffee, American coffee much more than coffee abroad because of our milk and they're guessing it's because it was raw milk and I wanted to know your thoughts on the raw milk debate. Raw milk debate.
+
+[25:07] Uh well okay I mean uh so wait so their theory was that the milk in uh in Europe was pasteurized before the milk is was here? I don't know. I don't know the actual I don't know the truth or falsity of that. Um I know that the the milk we used to get was alternately the milk back in the day, back in the day like pre for instance pre-Eerie Canal, pre-railroad into New York City, the milk we used to get was alternately was horrible here but could be much better in the country where now we kind of get a uh a kind of broadband mediocre milk uh no offense to the milk people. Um my d my feeling on on the raw milk is that I'm sure that there is both good milk uh good raw milk and bad raw milk.
+
+[25:48] I have had some fantastic raw milk and I'm sure you're aware that you know uh here in in the United States you have to buy it directly from the farm. So for instance we have a farm in uh at the green market here in New York that sells raw milk when you buy it in upstate New York at the farm and it has warning labels all over it but they can't ship it into New York to sell it at the farmers market here. Um you mean my debate on its taste or my debate on the law? I mean the law is absurd. But I mean okay the law's ridiculous.
+
+[26:16] The law was originally put in place because they thought that you could get tuberculosis from cows and so they started pasteurizing uh the the milk. Uh I'm sure pasteurization has done um a lot of good uh you know, in keeping milk for a longer period of time, but there's no question that um I mean you can have really good cheeses that are made with pa pasturized milk. Obviously I've had many, many, but uh, you know, that said, you know, most of the great cheeses of the world outside of the US are made with unpasteurized milk. So it would be interesting to do a a side by side test, which I've never done, of the same exact company, same exact process, pasteurized versus not, same milk, same cow. Uh I've never I've never had that happen.
+
+[26:57] I had great experience with the raw milk that I've purchased at farms here, but it's because they're great farmers and they make great milk. Do you know what I'm saying? And the milk and and and th a lot more happens to our milk other than just pasteurization. You know, it's broken up, it's homogenized. So, um you know, I think uh there's a there's a lot wrong with uh there's a lot wrong with our milk supply based on what it could be.
+
+[27:19] I mean it's really only I only ideal in the sense of it's relatively cheap compared to what it actually you know probably should cost if it was done right and it lasts a relatively long time. But that's about all I can say kind of good about it. What do you think? Well, I I think um I think it's a little absurd the law again, like I as you said before, but also I think it's almost impossible to really recreate the milk that uh Twain is talking about as Andrew Bears is trying to do in the book. I don't know how we would possibly be able to recreate it exactly.
+
+[27:51] Uh yeah, I mean there are people that have the same kind of breeds of cows, they're treating them in the same kind of way. It's just not mass I mean I'm sure in a micro way you could go reproduce it because you know, you could go to someone who's pasturing a very similar cow. The the breeds of cow that were uh you know around back then are still extant. And you know, you could get them, you could find someone milking them uh and you know and you could get it directly from the cow, you know, uh this is all possible, it's just not feasible in New York, for instance. Uh do you know what I mean?
+
+[28:21] Um I've talked to a bunch of food scientists who say that I'm a jerk for saying that the that the law is absurd because they point to the fact that you know indeed there are diseases you can get from uh raw milk cheeses that haven't been pasteurized, and and it is true that there are a certain number of people who uh you know can I guess contract uh diseases from raw milk. However, I'm willing to take that I'm more than willing to take that risk. And nine times out of ten nowadays in the US when someone gets a disease off of a cheese, for instance, or a dairy product, it's off of pasteurized product that's just been stored incorrectly. So I mean the the big uh the big you know problems in the past, I think in the 70s and 80s were queso blanco, queso fresco that were just uh you know not uh that didn't have any back because you know having a bacteriological, you know, having a bacteria component, a culture in the milk protects it against certain pathogens. So I think it's actually kind of these uh pasteurized and then stored in properly recontaminated products can sometimes be less safe.
+
+[29:21] But you know, again, I've had uh dairy scientists, you know, just tell me that I was a complete jackass for saying that, but I I mean I look, I think we should just slap a label on it. I'm allowed to smoke if I want. You know what I mean? Uh for instance, and I think that's a lot more dangerous than you know eating the cheese that I want. Uh and I think and their point is yes, but the consumer doesn't know that there's a risk to eating cheese, whereas they know there's a risk to smoking.
+
+[29:45] So I say, hey, why don't we just slap a warning label on it? And they're like, well, a producer wouldn't want to do that and be like, I would love that. You kidding me? Like, you think that the people that I know that I hang out with that are paying a bazillion dollars a pound for a block of cheese anyway, right? And I used to cheese was always my favorite thing in the world because uh you know, my theory was I could afford the best cheese in the world.
+
+[30:05] I can't afford the best wine. It's no longer really the case because cheeses have gotten so expensive. But you know, you know, we can afford to have at least a little bit of the best cheese in i in the world, and I think that we would flock to a cheese that had a big old warning label on it saying it was made with raw meat. We'd look for it. It wouldn't be that it would frighten us, we would actually seek it out.
+
+[30:23] You know, um but anyway, that's just my my feeling on it. But I'm definitely gonna check out that book as a fan of Twain and as a fan of 19th century American uh cooking. And you know, an interesting, you know, the the take on 19th century American cooking, I guess it most sticks in my head was uh uh uh what was her name? Oh my god, Hess. The the couple, what was their name?
+
+[30:41] Oh my god. My my head's gone. He was the she was a famous food historian, and he was a uh he was a New York Times critic for a while, and they they wrote a book called uh Taste of America. She just passed away recently. She's real curmudgeon.
+
+[30:53] Like her main gripe was that American food used to be great before the invention of baking powder. You know, and then that baking powder ruined everything. That was her basic uh that was her basic tenet. And she was a real kind of like uh, I think a tough, you know, a tough individual, but she was hanging out with the likes of William Moyce Weaver, uh and you know, writers like that, people who really have kept uh you know, William Voice Weaver is big on uh Pennsylvania Dutch and food saving and heirloom vegetables. And these guys have really um brought back a lot of the old the old recipes, and I think there's a lot of value there.
+
+[31:23] So I'm definitely gonna check out that book and thanks for bringing it to our attention. No problem. Alrighty. Let's go to another break. Uh oh, uh commercial break time?
+
+[31:31] All right, we're going to a commercial break. Please call in all your questions too. 718 uh whatever it is, four nine seven two one two eight. That's seven one eight four nine seven two one two eight. Cooking issues.
+
+[31:39] You feel good? Thanks so much, Bone brother. How do you feel, man? Call your name. I don't want to people to know you're in, yeah.
+
+[31:48] How you feel, fella? Sure getting down. We're gonna have a bunk good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time.
+
+[32:09] We're gonna have a bump good time. Don't take them up, Bread. We gotta take you high. Yeah, that's the one. We gotta take you high.
+
+[32:37] Now I won't have a body. Let's bread blow by two cords. Welcome back to cooking issues. Still got a couple minutes left here in the studio, although I'm told we will have to get off the air at uh 745 fairly promptly. Uh 745.
+
+[32:48] Oh my god, 1245. My brain. My brain is fried. We're talking about frying in a minute. Call your questions to 718-497-2128.
+
+[32:56] That's 718-497-2128. And we have a question about a registry, huh, Nastasha? What do we got? Same fried chicken guy. So which one do you want to go?
+
+[33:02] I want to that's very nice. We I apologize, uh uh Clayton, for you being referred to as same fried chicken guy. So uh let's uh Nestal that's why we call her the hammer. No tact, no tact, just a hammer, big blunt instrument. Anyway, give us the uh give us the registration question and then we'll deal with fried chicken later.
+
+[33:17] All right. One more question if he has time. I'm getting married soon and would like to use my wedding registry to beef up my kitchen. What are a few items that any modern cook shouldn't be without? Okay, I would recommend you get some rich friends.
+
+[33:30] That's the first thing. And uh register for an immersion circulator. If you do not already own an immersion circulator, you should register for an immersion circulator. If you throw three parties this year, you will be happy that you have an immersion circulator. Um let me think about this for a minute, because I'm just thinking about this, and then we're gonna take a call and we'll come we'll come back to it along with along with the fried chicken question.
+
+[33:48] Caller, you're on the air. Hi, this is Hannah. Um I'm just calling because I like to buy kind of chicken and fish, and I'm always looking for a new healthy sauce to cook with them. Right. Do you have any recommendation?
+
+[33:59] A new healthy uh what? Sauce? Sauce to cook with chicken or fish. Wow. Uh I I in general so you want a thick sauce or a thin sauce?
+
+[34:09] You want something to serve or you want uh something something separate? Like what are you what are you what are you looking for? Well I I tend to I'm just getting bored of my ones I'm ready open. I tend to just do kind of um a tomato base like a pisata with um just onions and some spices. Um anything different already.
+
+[34:26] All right. So here's what I would recommend. Anytime you're looking to uh to change your your sauce repertoire. What what first of all there's a very good uh very, very good book on sauces. I highly recommend it uh by James James Peterson called Sauces.
+
+[34:38] It won like the a beard award like maybe maybe about twelve years ago. It's available kind of very cheaply, I think, on Amazon now. Uh or you know, y you use. It's a fantastic book, and what I like about it is it is it teaches like basically f fundamentals of sauce making and um how to build on sauces starting with certain bases. So what I would do is I would I would come up with a couple of techniques that you like that you can then build a bunch of uh flavors off of.
+
+[35:03] So for instance, whenever I have a vegetarian now, now you're talking about chicken, so it's you know it's different, but you can use this sauce. Whenever I whenever I have a vegetarians coming over, I do one of it, which is a lot, uh actually. I have um various uh variations of fundamental coconut milk sauce that that we make. And it you have a good blender. Uh yeah.
+
+[35:23] Yeah. So it's you know, uh we'll do you know, it's use so it's a variant on Indian, but you could switch it to Asian or Thai if you want. It's just you know, uh pre-cook your your uh your your um your onions, your shallots or whatever you want, your garlic, then put in your spices, you know, hit them with the heat a little bit, then uh usually put in cashews, sometimes tomato paste, if if I want it red, sometimes not. Then your to you know, your coconut milk, you know, you heat, blend, correct with lime uh and or soy and or and or whatever. But I have like maybe 15, 16 sauces that I can build out of the simple idea that I'm gonna start with frying my ingredients, toasting the spices, uh throwing in probably a nut to beef it up, and then um and then um coconut milk and blend.
+
+[36:08] Similarly, I have you know, 13 or 14 different variants of uh you know, fry frying up that I can say I'll start with frying the onions and uh and garlic, uh frying that, and then uh you know, some form of cheese, cheese uh, you know, and herb and oil blended. Or so they all work that way. And you know, these are all basically separate sauces that you can make in advance. I mean, then of course the the obvious is you know the pan sauce, whatever based on what's in the pan, which is you know, usually some form of deglazing. So it all it all depends on kind of like uh building up building up your your repertoire.
+
+[36:37] I would choose a taste flavor that you like. Like if you like an Indian profile, I would get like you know, a couple of the base spices in your kitchen that you need to do it, coriander, cardamom, uh, cumin, you know, things like this, uh, and have them just ready. And then, and then you know, whenever you want to make a sauce, you know, it's it's whatever wherever your heart takes you that night, and you and you you blend it. But it's just having you know, if you if to bait tomatoes your only base to start with now, then you know there's only so far you can go with that. So then you you just you know stock out your pantry and uh get a couple of different get an emulsified sauce in there, like so start building on uh on like Hollandaise slash Bernays base differences, and those are delicious.
+
+[37:12] Everyone likes them. And they're really they're really quite simple. You don't need to have clarified butter. You know, you can uh look up Harold McGee, I think, wrote about it. We and we might have it on the blog, uh very, very fast uh Hollandaise or Bernays or any one of those sauces, and those sauces form a fantastic base for for other things.
+
+[37:29] It's just a question of changing the flavors, and so you can really kind of alleviate boredom by just picking one or two of these sauce families, right, and then working with it from uh from there and really really expand out. And that's how I think all good cooks expand their repertoires by like taking some new basic nugget and then building on it again and again and again through repetition. Is that helpful at all or no? That is. And what do you say using uh frying the herbs before you then um add in the sauce?
+
+[37:56] Uh it depends. So like uh the you know the c the classic, the a lot of the dry spices and things like uh ginger, things like nuts, uh I tend to fry before I add uh the liquids because uh, you know, the I've never done a side by side though. It's interesting, but uh theoretically uh, you know, that's how it's done in those cuisines, and so I just I tend to do it. And uh, you know, they say that it releases the aromas. I don't know if that's actually true.
+
+[38:19] Uh well it probably if there's a high heat involved, it actually does probably do some sort of toasting, frying and changing the uh the base notes that are involved, because I know that for instance, toasted caraway tastes very different from untoasted caraway, not better, not worse, different. Uh and so it's just it tends to be something that I do. I don't ever pre-cook uh green herbs. Uh and you know, uh always like the the dried spices, not dried herbs, more dried spices that you tend to hit. Um, you know, just make sure you don't scorch the garlic, etc.
+
+[38:45] etc. But then throw it all in the blender, brr and it goes. I mean the blender is like you know, especially I have a vita prep at home that'll take a pound of bacon and and uh emulsify it into a sauce, and no one will even know it's there other than the flavor. No one will know from a texture standpoint. So a good blender is a definite sauce maker's friend in the kitchen these days because it definitely saves me a lot of uh a lot of heartache.
+
+[39:03] Um anyway. Yeah. So uh so helpful, thank you. All right, thank you. Uh thanks for the call.
+
+[39:08] All right, now I'm gonna uh blend. No, why don't you just finish the wedding one? You can't get to the chip. I uh watch me. Four minutes?
+
+[39:15] Watch me. Jack, you really're taking a portion of my four minutes to to tell me that I can't answer this question in four minutes. This is the lady who who berates me for my Martha Stewart uh position where I was supposed to do three cocktails and did three quarters of a cocktail. Here we go. Uh all right, listen, I'm gonna think more about your registry problem.
+
+[39:31] A vita prep. Oh, vita pre yeah, but you can't register. Where can you register for a vita prep? If you can find a place here's what I here's what I would want. Get yourself a vita prep, get yourself an immersion circulator, buy your own vacuum machine, or get, you know, a you know a cheap one, whatever.
+
+[39:44] Um obviously if you don't already own a decent set of knives, get have them buy you a good set of pots. For Christ's sakes, get a good set of pots. I mean, I when I registered, I had like a mismatch of different pots, and now I have like kind of the standard uh pots, and even though I got them, you know, 18 years ago, whatever it is, you know, 15 years ago uh when I was registered, I'm still loving them today. They're fine. I have the you know, standard kind of all clads, but definitely hit all those big ticket items uh that yeah, ditch the China and get all that of this.
+
+[40:12] Yeah, forget China. Who wants China? It's gonna break anyway. Get the vita prep, get the immersion circulator, get some decent pots, get some decent knives, right? And then if Nastasha thinks of anything while I'm talking, we'll go for that.
+
+[40:24] Okay, now uh on your fried chicken question, you make fried chicken only about once a month. That's a reasonable amount, although you know you can make it more. Keeping the oil, how do you keep the oil after you're done? Because the oil can be expensive. Is it worthwhile to keep the oil?
+
+[40:29] Okay, listen. The enemies to oil are uh basically oxidation and uh and breakdown when you're cooking and when you're storing. What causes uh that breakdown to happen, first of all, fresh oil is kind of bad anyway. You should always fry a little bit with your oil, it really picks up quick, especially at home because you're probably pretty brutal on the oil. But um uh you know, fresh oil actually isn't the best.
+
+[40:56] Like you want to use it a little bit uh because what happens is the oil breaks down somewhat, and um when it breaks down, it becomes it has more polar uh components, so it actually can attack the food and fry it a lot faster. So a little bit of oil breakdown is actually helpful, but in general, don't worry about your oil being too fresh at home because it ain't gonna be fresh for long. Anyway, so uh uh the main things that are gonna kill your oil is if you're uh overheating it. If you overheat your oil, which you tend to do on not you, but one tends to do on a stove, uh the temperature cycles up and down, up and down and and way high, that's gonna ruin oil very quickly. And and if it gets really dark in color, it's not gonna be worthwhile and you probably won't keep it.
+
+[41:32] The other thing is if you get a lot of uh particles uh floating in the bottom that burn, those will cause uh your oil to go down really fast. And the second is if you're frying a lot of high uh liquid stuff, it stuff sprays out into it or lots of salts, you're gonna notice the oil is gonna start foaming a lot more uh and the oil's gonna go go south fast. So, a lot of how long you can keep the oil is how you treated it when you were frying. We use an oil, if you can go to a commercial supplier and get a five gallon, you know, wherever it is, a 30-pound or five gallon pail of oil, uh the professional fry oil that we use is eight times better than the fry oil you can get uh in a supermarket because it has antioxidants in it, which means the oil is gonna last a lot longer. Okay, that's one.
+
+[42:11] Two, when you store it, you want to let it cool down, and then right away that night you want to uh pour it, uh filter it through first like a strainer and then through uh something finer, like some napkins or cloth, to get all the particles out of it, because those are really going to make your oil turn to crap. Then when you store it, you want to store it uh outside of the light, because if it's stored in the light, you're gonna get more oxidation. So you want to store it in a dark, cool place, you want it to be filtered and you want it to stay, you know, in in a cool area. You want to make sure you don't do too much temple temperature cycling on it. And here is the best way to find out if your oil is uh crappy, right?
+
+[42:46] Take a little bit of your oil, heat it up in a pan, and fry a piece of white bread in it, and then eat the white bread. White bread is extremely neutral, it soaks up a lot of oil, and it's the best way, other than just dipping your finger in and tasting it, to figure out whether you're gonna get any off notes in your fried products from the oil that you're using. And that's my standard technique in the kitchen to determine if an oil has gone too far to keep using, is I do a bread fry test. Alright, now I have 30 seconds. So on the way out, Jarrett called in and or wrote in and he said, Hey, when I make my dashi, right, uh I eat a huge bowl of it, and I get all buzzed, and I have to sit down and watch comedy programs because I get a buzz.
+
+[43:24] Is this from the uh glutamic acid? Uh and uh I don't know whether this key to you know, you know, keys in with uh the kind of pot questions we had before, but I definitely I though you gave us our recipe. I want to know kind of what secret ingredient you're putting in to get buzzed. I've never noticed this. I've never heard uh I couldn't find any reputable cases of uh monosodium glutamate intoxication.
+
+[43:46] But uh the last time I got drunk without drinking was uh an ice cream party at random. I found an ice cream machine. I'll look more, Jared, by the way, if I'm about to go on a tangent on the way out of here. Uh I found an ice cream machine on the side of the street, a soft serve ice cream machine. It was all broken and beat and battered, weighed 900 pounds.
+
+[44:03] I wheeled it into my apartment, wired it into three separate circuits because it took three phase power and it was all demented, finally got it to work. The refrigeration didn't work, so I had to throw dry ice into it, all these nightmare problems. I had a giant soft serve party where I actually went up to the Bronx to Mr. Softy, which is our local ice cream, soft serve ice cream here, and bought a bunch of gallons of uh Mr. Softy ice cream mix and threw the most disgusting party in the world.
+
+[44:26] It was sh all it was was champagne and all you could eat soft serve ice cream out of an ice cream tap, you know, because we had the big soft serve machine with all the toppings. And I didn't even have anything to drink that night, but I must have eaten, I don't know, like a half gallon of ice cream, and I felt completely looped drunk crazy. And so that's the only similar experience I've had to a non-alcohol-based buzz on a food I uh I've done, and it wasn't related to MSG uh or to Dashi. But I definitely want your Dashi recipe if you can get a if you get buzzed off of it, Jared. So I'll look into it some more.
+
+[44:58] And for this week, it's cooking issues. Come back next week, this uh next Tuesday, 12 12 noon.
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+[0:00] Hi, I'm Steve Jenkins. I work for Fairway Markets in the New York area. And we're awfully proud to support Heritage Radio. And we care so much about everything that goes on out here at Roberta's and their studio because they talk to people who are serious about food. And that's what we are at Fairway, is we're serious about food.
+
+[0:24] We we just care very deeply about you as a as a customer and how you cook and what you cook with and how you entertain. And that's why we love to support Heritage Radio because it it's pretty much the same thing. It's wanting to to find happiness through serious food and people who are serious about it and care about learning everything there is to learn about it. And that's that's we're kindred spirits. If it's something worth having in your kitchen, you're gonna find it at Fairway.
+
+[0:56] And if there's somebody worth talking to about food, you're gonna find them on Heritage Radio, and we will be supporting you guys for a long, long time. At Fairway, I'm your personal grocer, Steve Jenkins, Fairway Mark. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues, the show where you call us with all of your cooking related questions, technical or none. I'm Dave Arnold. You're a host of Cooking Issues uh here with uh Nastasha the Lopez.
+
+[1:33] My brain's a little frazzled because I'm actually here on time today, which doesn't usually happen. So I'm not used to having any time before we go on air, so it's you know a little bit different from normal. But calling all of your questions live to the studio at 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 here on a Sleedy Brooklyn Tuesday. Although it's not as bad as the everyone's supposed to get really bad.
+
+[1:56] Yeah, sure. Yeah, I was. I don't believe that. Yeah, I don't believe it. Yeah, it's it's uh it's a load a load of malarkey, right?
+
+[2:01] Mm-hmm. All right. Uh did I already give the number? Yes. I did, I did give the number.
+
+[1:59] Okay. So we have a question uh from Paul. Uh Paul writes in, Hi Dave. My one-year-old kids love eating with uh their hands. Who doesn't like you know, my nine year old after breaking them with eating with his hands, I'm like, this one's a hand, this one's a four.
+
+[2:19] Oh, really? Oh, he's nine. Yeah, my oldest one. I have a nine and a six. Anyway.
+
+[2:22] Uh my one-year-old kids love eating uh with their hands and uh jello jelly or jello to us Americans uh is a particular favorite. I don't want to give them too much sugar, so I wanted to turn fruit juice into jelly using gelatin. Uh we get locally produced orange juice delivered weekly, so that seemed like a good start. I used 1.7% fish gelatin. This is the key here, fish gelatin, um, which is should be more than enough to set, by the way.
+
+[2:43] And then uh letting the granules bloom in one third of the juice, heating the other two thirds to boiling, mixing the two parts and stirring until dissolved. It's only been in the fridge three hours now, but I'm not convinced it's going to solidify. Do you have any tips? I'd prefer to stick with fish gelatin if possible. Okay, a couple of things.
+
+[2:56] One, I don't think you need to boil uh all of it. I think you could probably um I think you could probably, you know, do it in a s in a in a smaller amount because uh I think you're gonna be altering the flavor of the juice by boiling um boiling so much of it. Um I think the main issue you're having here is with the fish gelatin. Fish gelatin, I think we spoke about gelatin a bit last week, right? Or the week before.
+
+[3:15] Yeah. Uh fish gelatin uh usually uh isn't as strong as uh regular gelatin. It's a lot lighter of a jelly, uh, you know, on a on a per weight basis. Also, fish gelatin tends to set at a uh much lower temperature than regular gelatin. So uh it is gonna take uh quite a bit longer um uh to cool off and set in your fridge.
+
+[3:35] So it might be that you just need to uh wait longer because your percentages should be enough. It's never probably gonna get as hard as a regular gelatin. The other problem with fish gelatin is I don't know what brand you're using, but unlike um beef gelatin or uh pig-derived gelatin, uh fish gelatin is extremely variable in terms of its qualities. So for instance, like a uh cold water fish gelatin, it sets at a ridiculously low temperature. It's like you know, it's not really I mean, I don't know.
+
+[4:00] I don't have that much experience with it, but from what I read, fish cold water fish gelatin is tough to work with. So you're probably using a warmer water fish gelatin. Um fish gelatin is also more sensitive to acid than um some of the other gelatins we use, but it shouldn't be an issue with orange juice, because orange juice isn't that uh acidic. So I would just say uh wait longer, or perhaps you might think of moving to a different product other than gelatin. So you could use uh a gel if if I don't know why you want to use fish gelatin, whether it's because you're worried about uh whether it's because you don't eat red meat or whether it's because you're worried about maybe BSE in a in a in a in a beef gelatin.
+
+[4:32] BSC is bun uh bovine spongiform encephalopathy for all of you people. Although they ha they've done research where they they've taken, and I used to not eat gelatin actually for a while because I was a little paranoid way back in the day about mad cow, that's what bovine spongiform encephalopathy is, uh or Jakob's Kreuzfeld uh new variant, whatever, BSE. So the um so uh what what what I would do is um what I mean what they did, they did a study where they they took a cow, they injected its brain with uh mad cow, right, and then they turned it into gelatin, and then they were testing to see whether they could get any prions, because it's a prion-based disease out of the gelatin, and uh they couldn't. Um trust that or don't trust that uh as the case may be because it was paid for by the gelatin people. But um the so anyway, so I don't know why you want to use fish gelatin specifically.
+
+[5:17] Um if it's because uh of the red meat issue, you might want to switch away from fish gelatin and go to an entirely uh vegetable-based product, seaweed-based, in which case I would use uh a mixture of kappa carrageenin uh and locust bean gum, which is a commercially available uh gelatin replacer. It has the advantage of setting much faster. Uh, has a texture fairly similar to gelatin, although it doesn't melt in your mouth the same way gelatin does, because let's face it, nothing does. Uh but if you're just making jellies, it should work for you. Um you can get that from uh CP Kelco, uh, but I you know I don't know that there's some couple names in the uh supermarket that you can get that work.
+
+[5:53] I think maybe some of the kosher gelatins are actually carragenin-based. So you might want to uh move to that uh if you want to. Uh also I was researching this and I found out something interesting I did not know. And that is uh people have made a uh microbial based gelatin now. So there's now certain strains of yeast and bacteria that can produce gelatin.
+
+[6:11] Now they're not commercially available yet, but this could open the door to a completely vegetarian, like actual straight up gelatin being produced down the road. So uh we'll all be looking forward to to that, right, Nastasha? Right, yeah. Okay. Uh so we have a caller.
+
+[6:24] Caller, you are on the air. Hi, thanks for taking my call. Um, I have a question about the perfect chocolate chip cookie. Uh my perfect chocolate chip cookie is kind of on the thicker side, it'd be a little bit chewy. I know some people like it thin and crispy, but you know, I I go for the thick and chewy.
+
+[6:42] Right. And uh I was wondering if hot hydrocolloids could help me perfect the chocolate chip cookie that I'm looking for. All right. Well, this is an excellent question. And uh first of all, I like the way you're phrasing the question in that you say you say my perfect chocolate chip cookie.
+
+[6:56] So, one of my problems with a lot of recipes that people give is they'll say the perfect chocolate chip cookie, and there is no such thing as the perfect chocolate chip cookie. Um so you want it a little bit thicker. What problem are you having now? Like what what how how is it that you're doing it now? How are they coming out, and then how do you hope hydrocolloids will help you?
+
+[7:12] Um, I also like uh kind of a really buttery taste, so I think maybe uh I'm using a lot of butter and they come out thick, but they're not very chewy. They they have a rich buttery taste, but they're very soft. And uh I've never cooked with he hydrocolloids and you know, so I don't really have any experience with them, but I hear you talk about them a lot. I was just wondering if maybe I should try that. Okay.
+
+[7:36] Well, here's here's some uh some pointers with it. Um the butter, I'm surprised that they still stay thick with a lot of butter unless you reduce the sugar content on them because the butter should help the spread more. They should spread more with a higher butter content. Uh but I could be wrong because it's been a while since I've read there's a book out there that you can get online uh called uh uh crackers and cookies, uh cracker and cookie technology, but it's been about eight years since I've read it, so I'm a little behind uh in my in my reading, but let's let's go ahead with it. Now, there's um there's a group of people who uh their feeling is it's possible to make the perfect X, Y, or Z in chocolate chip cookie is usually one of them without using anything other than the traditional ingredients.
+
+[8:16] Uh and those people are against using things like hydrocolloids in a chocolate chip cookie just because they say it's not necessary. These are the same people who say don't use anything fancy in your tempura batters because the top end Japanese chefs don't use them. Now I don't I don't necessarily believe that. I'm just mentioning that off the you know off the top. Um but it sounds like what you want is something that's gonna reduce spread during um reduce spread during baking, am I right?
+
+[8:39] Keep it thicker? Yeah. Right. Yeah, keep it thicker, not necessarily like a cakey texture. I've I've had some turnout where they're really thick but they're kind of cakey, and I that wasn't really what I was going for either.
+
+[8:52] Right. Uh well I would you I would try um I mean, so for instance, off the top of my head, and any sort of the any sort of the uh uh products that add viscosity to the to this stuff would increase um would increase you know decrease the spread. The problem is is that um there's not much of a water phase in uh chocolate chip cookies, right? And so to you to use a hydrocolloid uh sorry, to use a hydrocolloid accurately, you're gonna need to uh have something that you can put into the water phase. So if you look at if you look at um basically scanning electron uh microscopy pictures of uh starch granules in uh cookie systems after they've been cooked, you'll see that a lot of the starch granules are still pretty much un uh un messed with, and that's because there's not enough water present in the system, even at the high oven temperatures to really make them fully swell and break.
+
+[9:42] So it you you you're basically gonna need to find something that can cause a thickening uh action in you know in an extremely low water situation because basically what do you have in there that's liquid? Probably just the egg, right? Yeah. Right. So um I mean w one thing you could do, I mean the th the the pr this is the problem with hydrocolloids in cookies.
+
+[10:00] Now I'm not saying it can't be done, but like you could, for instance, clarify the butter, add the twenty percent water back as butter with a hydrocolloid in it, in which case I would use something like Xanthan gum, or perhaps something like methyl cellulose, right? Uh or you know, it's gonna be hard to hydrate a hydrocolloid into the egg, although you could. Right. In which case I would use something like Xanthan, uh, which you know has a what's called a yield point, so it basically but it's not gonna really affect the cookie when it's done because um you know you just won't taste it when you're chewing on the on the on the cookie, but it should, you know, decrease the spread a little bit. Um but y you know the spread in cookies is something that has been studied quite quite a lot.
+
+[10:39] Um and so you can usually decrease the spread by adjusting the butter sugar uh ratio, right because both of those things as they heat are going to tend to increase spread. So increase sugar recipes increase the spread and uh increase butter I think should probably increase the spread. Increase whereas increased flour decreases the spread but increases cakiness, right? Especially especially when combined with uh leaveners. So um could is there a leavener in your recipe?
+
+[11:04] Right? There is, right? Yeah there is. Right. So if you so aside from just using hydrocolloids, if you wanted to decrease cakiness, when you when they do an increase flour they probably also increase the leavener.
+
+[11:16] You could go the other way and decrease the leavener a little bit and that might help. I don't know. You know also adjusting oven temperature can adjust the spread as it goes and the temperature of the batter as it goes in can adjust the spread somewhat. So you might want to go in with a very very cold a cold battery like drop them real cold, throw them in the oven you know and then set it before they spread. But it it should be possible I don't think you're going to get that much of a result out of uh out of hydrocolloids unless they are uh unless they are you kind of pre-functionalized.
+
+[11:44] But I could be totally wrong about this because you know I've never tried it. But things like Xanthan, things um like methyl methyl cellulose I mentioned that one right because methellulose has the the property that it gels when it gets hot. So if you can get the methylcellulose to get into the egg white or the egg somehow when it heats up it the methyl cell will set and actually form a gel and prevent spread but then when the cookie cools off again the cookie uh the methyl cell will go back to its normal non gelling form. So that you know that could that could be interesting. Um and it might actually be interesting you can add that you could probably add a little bit of extra water phase uh that the cookie doesn't call for because it's not going to increase the spread a little bit and might make it might make it chewyer.
+
+[12:22] I'm not I'm not sure. I have not tested it. Uh but Yeah, that that was my next question. Could I mix the uh hydrocolloid with a little bit of water pre incorporating it into the batter and then uh see what that does. You can, but cookies are such low mean except except for cake style cookies, like for instance like uh a traditional New York black and white cookie or things like that that have like a lot of water because a black and white cookie is essentially a cake that's made uh flat, right?
+
+[12:49] And so we all know what those cakey cookies are like, but in general, like a traditional cookie like we're talking about, very low water formulation. You know what I mean? Basically just the w water from the eggs and the roughly twenty percent by weight water that the butter is that you put into it, you know. Um now again it i it would be possible to to do it, it would take a lot of uh take a lot of dorking uh with but um i it's a problem I actually haven't thought about, but it is very interesting. And I'd appreciate it if if you ran some tests or uh that you uh kind of got back to us about what the results were.
+
+[13:23] Great. I'll do that. Thank you very much for your help. All right, no problem. Good luck.
+
+[13:28] All right. What did you say, Nastasha? Yeah, one minute. We have uh Nastash. This is why they call the hammer.
+
+[13:33] She's supposed to be the hammer on other people, but she ends up just basically like people. What? What do you mean? No, Nastashia likes just to be the hammer on me instead of on instead of on like she's supposed to be like Nastash is supposed to be like my personal hammer, like someone comes, gives me the beat down. And you flip me off.
+
+[13:53] That's this is this is an exaggeration. This is this is an exaggeration. Ex I would like to say this is exaggeration. Alright, so next week, uh actually, will I be here on Tuesday? Yeah, okay.
+
+[14:05] So I'm gonna right after the radio show next week, I'm flying out to Florida, and it's the first time I'm extremely excited. I'm going to the North American Food equipment manufacturer Show in Orlando. I was gonna have my wife and kids fly down so that we could do the whole Disney World thing, but my wife had a project come up, so she can't do it, which is unfortunate because my kids never been to Disney World. Uh anyway, uh that's aside the point. But uh, not next week, but the week after, I will regale you all with uh stories of the latest greatest developments in North American food equipment manufacturing.
+
+[14:34] Which listen, Nastasha's laughing because to her this sounds boring, but there's nothing I enjoy more than looking at new equipment. Seriously, like walking around, and I usually go to the uh National Restaurant Association show that with the NRA, everyone's like that NRA? I'm like, no, the other NRA in Chicago every year, and um they have some equipment there, but this is apparently like the great the great grandma of all equipment shows in the US. So I'm gonna go down and uh I'm gonna report back on what I think the future of uh restaurant food equipment is gonna be as according to the restaurant uh social if I get to actually walk the show at all, because Nils and I are going down there to uh shill out basically for the unified brands uh who make a piece of equipment that we use at the school called um the Randall the Randall FX. It's a pretty cool uh fridge.
+
+[15:16] Anyway, so we're going down there, and so Nils and I have to do a dog and pony uh like every hour on the hour for a couple of days uh uh talking about the merits of accurate refrigeration. So uh anyway, I'm excited uh next week to go out and we'll give you the report uh when I get back. Right now we're gonna go to our first commercial break. Call in all your questions to 718-497-2128, 718-497-2128 cooking issues. How are you feeling, bro?
+
+[15:38] Feeling good. You feel good? Thanks so much, Bone Brother. How you feel, mate? I'll feel all right.
+
+[15:46] I don't want to know if people don't know you in, yeah. How you feel, fellas? Sure gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bunk good time. We're gonna have a bump good time.
+
+[16:09] We're gonna have a bump good time. Gotta take you high. Alright. Yeah, let's go on. Gotta take the high.
+
+[16:36] Yeah. Now I won't have a body. Let's bread blow up by two cores. And then I wanna wave in. Let's go into it.
+
+[16:43] Now alright. All right, all right. I'm gonna get that fella with a little horn over there. Welcome back to Cooking Issues. Calling all of your cooking related questions to 718-497-2128.
+
+[16:56] That's 718-497-2128. They don't have to be cooking, actually, it can be alcohol related. Yeah. Yeah, it can be alcohol related. Uh what?
+
+[17:04] Like making alcohol stuff. Well, yeah. Making drinking, like tips on drinking or making making alcohol, making drinks with alcohol. Uh okay, we have a caller. Caller, you are on the air.
+
+[17:15] Hi, Dave. Quick question. Sure. Um, I noticed when you pour champagne into an empty glass, the the uh effervescence is pretty quick and it you know, it bubbles over if you don't pour carefully. But if you got another liquid in there, like say like orange juice for a mimosa or something, you can pour it a lot faster.
+
+[17:31] Is that like a lack of nucleation sites, or is the carbonation getting diluted, or something? I think probably I think probably both. I mean, certain things that you pour into cause an instant foaming because they have uh foam forming abilities. So, for instance, like you'll notice if you squeeze a lime into uh into uh drink and then pour it with celsier, you get that big scum of bubbles on the top of it, right? Yeah.
+
+[17:52] But you're not gonna necessarily get the the little bubbles, but actually you will because they're gonna nucleate off the off of the off the thing. So the the first pro problem you're gonna have not problem, but the first issue you're gonna deal with is like what is the actual uh what are the properties of the liquid you're pouring into, and are they gonna increase foaming or not? Now there's a difference between fo like foaming, which is the head that's gonna form on the top, and then um actual bubbles that are gonna form in the liquid. So I think you're probably right that um that if you dilute something, you're gonna have less bubbles coming out because the amount of bubbles coming out are related to the a actual percentage dissolved CO2 that are in the in the product, and because you've diluted it down, um you're gonna have less total CO2 per, you know, per gram. And so assuming that your orange juice is cold and everything, um all of a sudden the amount of CO2 coming out is going to be a lot lower than if you poured in straight champagne, right?
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+[18:43] Ah so uh I mean there's that effect, and there's also something you mentioned when you pour it into a uh you know a a new glass, uh new glasses tend to I mean, this is not what you're talking about, but it's what I th where I thought you were gonna go, so I'll talk about it anyway. Is uh, you know, there's uh nucleation sites on glasses in the form of dust specs and uh little imperfections in it. So you actually if you hyperclean, if you pour like uh, you know, uh uh I what I forget what they're called, like sodium dichromate cleaning solution, the stuff we used to use in orgo, you know, to totally to eat anything that's on the inside of the glass and dump it out, you'll get no you'll get no bubbles. And there's uh there's actually a book you might be interested in uh about the it's the science of champagne. It deals a lot with uh bubbles, and it's uh written by a gentleman uh who's a champagne scientist.
+
+[19:23] I I think his last name is uh Belloch. His first name might be Hilaire or something like that, Bellak. It's the science of champagne. It's not that expensive. It's a thin book, and it's written, you know, it's equation free, so you don't have to like beat your head against the wall to get through it.
+
+[19:36] And it's a really interesting study of uh champagne and the physics of champagne and the physics of bubbles. It's definitely a recommended read. Uh I'm pretty sure it's still in print and you can get it, get it through Amazon. I'll caution you though uh everyone always lies about the amount of bubbles that are present in champagne. Like the champagne numbers are always extremely high, and I've never no I've never noticed that they there actually is that much carbonation in a bottle of champagne as the what they quote on in their literature, which is interesting to me.
+
+[20:02] Whereas like American sparklers are often overcarbonated, which is why they I think you tend to lose some of the um you tend to lose some of like the fruit notes and they tend to seem less complex, and I think it's because they're overcarbonated, which is why, by the way, this ties into your question, believe it or not, that um I think that American sparklers are really good choices sometimes for uh like a mimosa things like a mimosa because they'll have more residual CO2 when you water down the uh when you water down your orange juice. Okay. What do you think? Does this make any sense? Yes.
+
+[20:31] All right. Awesome. Thanks a lot, Dave. All right, call uh call in again if you have any more questions, especially on champagne because we love it, right, Nastasha? Yes.
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+[20:37] Yes, all right. Thank you for calling. Um okay, so interesting. Tomorrow, tomorrow, right? No.
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+[20:44] Tomorrow, yeah. Tomorrow we drop off the Martha Fuge. So I think as we talked about uh earlier, right? We talked about this before, right? I was on the Martha Stewart show.
+
+[20:52] Yeah, I'll run through it again. On the Martha Stewart show, Martha Stewart's like I want a centrifuge, but I only want to pay three hundred dollars. It's not how she talks. Anyway, so we found her a centrifuge for three hundred dollars. And uh the uh what was the problem with this one again?
+
+[21:04] It had uh this one was oh brushes, the brushes. Yeah, I needed to replace the brushes on the motor. So I replace the brushes on the motor. Thing works fine. Uh I had to um so yeah, it works works great.
+
+[21:13] In fact, it works better than mine. Works better than mine because mine, the refrigeration unit was broken. And I was secretly I said to Nastasha, I was like, you know, Nastasha, I should give her the one where the refrigerator's broken. But she would have been on you. Well, no, no, no.
+
+[21:27] You were like, come on, it's Martha, give her the good one. What the heck's wrong with you? Right? Pretty much. But you know, that's not how I talk either.
+
+[21:32] Well, well, yeah, well, you you're here to defend your speech. But you know, the so anyway, so I'm sure we've all had this, right? Where you get two things, right, and you already have yours and you buy one for somebody else, and you're like, oh my god, it's better than mine, and there's that moment where you want to switch it out. It's just not happened to you? Yeah, yeah, of course.
+
+[21:48] Anyway, so we're giving her the good one, but it it it it put uh a fire under my butt to go fix uh fix mine. Um so anyway, so I did fix mine, but it was a pain in the butt because to to change out the board, the electronics board, was like a like a thousand dollars to change it. So I just bought uh you can go, you know, it used to be to buy a temperature controller online, like a PID temperature controller that worked, it would cost uh, you know, over a hundred dollars, well over a hundred dollars. Now they're so cheap, there's so many people doing uh DIY, have to do it yourself, uh temperature control stuff that you can buy a temperature controller out there delivered like in two days for like 30 bucks, 30, 40 bucks. So I bought one and uh I just put my own temperature control on my refrigeration unit, and now my refrigeration unit works fine, thank you very much.
+
+[22:29] So it turns out I've now fixed pretty much every part of uh centrifuge. This could be your new job. Or if anyone has a centrifuge that needs to be fixed. Well, you know, I was thinking about this. Um here's what I here's what I was thinking.
+
+[22:40] Oh, first of all, you know, Wiley now finally got a centrifuge. Wiley has a three-liter centrifuge, of course, his is new, fancy fancy, uh three-liter centrifuge. And one of our interns, uh former intern, I guess, although he's still working with us, Piper Christensen, who just got hired at WD. Congratulations, Piper. Uh so uh he's running their centrifuge night and day, and they're they're coming up with some new interesting outcomes.
+
+[23:00] But you know, uh I've been a centrifuge evangelist for a long time now, uh several years probably, and uh I really think people should buy more centrifuges. I really, really do. Um, you know, I I did a bunch of research on it, right? Now I'm not recommending that a restaurant go out and and uh you know buy a hundred dollar centrifuge and have this giant thing sitting in there in their restaurant, and like maybe it works, maybe it doesn't, and who knows what the lifetime of the centrifuge buckets are because I don't know if you guys know centrifuge, by the way, for the people who think what the hell is this guy talking about? Centrifuge, what huh?
+
+[23:30] If you're thinking that, what it is is basically a machine that has a rotor that spins very quickly and uh creates centripetal force, and that um and that actually separates products based on their density. So we use it typically to separate oil from nuts, for instance, or to uh clarify juices, um, and we can do it very fast with very high yields. Um we can also like do nut milks, things like that, get very, very high yields. Um I don't understand how blood came into play or comes into play in a centrifuge. Well, they typically what they'll do is they'll fill the centrifuge tubes with blood, they'll spin it, they'll get the serum on the top and the red blood cells at the bottom when they're running tests and stuff like that.
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+[24:08] Yeah, so when you buy a use centrifuge, you have to assume that it's had really evil, evil, evil stuff in it. And so you have to completely uh, as I said and Ken Kirstenbaum, our friend at uh at uh NYU likes to quote me as bleach the rabies out of it. So you be you bleach the hell out of it and then you and then you uh pressure cook the uh buckets to um to to do it. Anyway, so this this type of centrifuge, three-liter centrifuge, um, you know, although there are perils to buying it used, uh, is extremely good. Uh and so what you can do is um what you what you do is you know you buy it and fix it, but I think restaurants could afford to buy a new one.
+
+[24:42] I looked at it online, and you can get uh very good quality centrifuge for about seven seven thousand five hundred dollars that does everything that ours does minus the refrigeration okay and um and so and and that thing will will pay for itself if you make juices or you're doing things like that the increase in yield off these expensive ingredients is going to pay for itself I don't know why more people aren't uh getting it because it's not like it's it's not some kind of a crazy presentation tool like no one has to know you're doing it's just all of a sudden you have these amazing clear juices like these amazing uh you know nut nut oils everything it's just such a great tool um so what I was thinking is like what if we started a uh well not started a business but what if we said hey listen uh you buy this centrifuge we'll tell you which one to buy and then we'll come in and train you how to use it we'll show up you know you need like you need like some enzymes they don't cost that much the enzymes uh you need like you know a b a bag of and uh you know a bag of enzymes um and pretty much you're ready to rock and roll right yeah that and maybe some of this uh kind of sand well we're doing one of the things we're and a scale scale is like twenty bucks so you know or like you know not not bad uh in fact uh our new intern brooke we were getting a scale from Martha and it was all messed up she cleaned that thing like it was brand freaking new I was like crap now I don't want to give that to Martha either I've never seen someone clean a scale that way you would not believe people you would not believe this I would uh yeah that that scale is that scale was like hospital quality when she was done with it. Did you say we had yeah we have a caller we have a caller caller you are on the air hi Dave. Hi how you doing doing good this is Michael Natkin. How you doing? Doing great sent you a few email questions and uh now I got a chance to catch you live.
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+[26:15] Alright here we go. So what do you what do you what do you got for me? So I got a question about coconut milk. Delicious coconut milk you mean. I love coconut milk.
+
+[26:22] So I've made a lot of really bad Thai curries over the years. And I finally made a good one and I don't really understand why. I'm hoping you can help me figure it out. So I I always ignored the instructions to cook the coconut milk until it separates. Never could really figure out why that was important.
+
+[26:39] And my curries always turned out a little bit gelatinous. It's like I would reduce the milk somewhat but not cook it all that all the way down till it's separated. Right. Um and I would get this sort of gelatinous, unpleasant texture in them. And you know, finally I realized, hey, I'm not following that direction.
+
+[26:54] Because it you know how you follow a recipe, and if you don't know why something's important, you skip it. Exactly. Yeah. So and then I for the other day, you know, I I cooked the curry paste, I cooked the milk down until it's separated, and then I added some more fresh coconut milk to bulk it up before I served it, and it came out great. So so what's going on there?
+
+[27:10] What's that gelatinous texture about? And why does separating it help? That's extremely interesting. So I'm gonna have to think so for those of you out there, uh presumably if you're cooking it till it breaks, you you're making your own coconut milk? No.
+
+[27:23] Okay. Right. So um you should well, try m try making your own, by the way. Have you ever you've made your own ever or no? I never have.
+
+[27:31] Oh my god. You have to try making your own coconut milk. It's okay. It's amazing. It's like fresh coconut milk is a revelation.
+
+[27:37] But here's and this is how it it it goes, talks to what you're what you're what you're talking about. You know, fresh coconut milk, you make it like you would almost any other you know, you grate the coconut and then you you know blend it high speed with hot water and you squeeze it out. Anyway, uh and it's delicious. You love it. But fresh coconut milk, and this is why I'm asking, breaks extraordinarily quickly when you're cooking it.
+
+[27:58] Whereas canned coconut milk, and I don't know why. Uh takes a lot longer to break. You know what I mean? You can boil coconut milk for a good long time th before before she breaks on you. And Nastasha's like, why is it always a she?
+
+[28:12] Anyway, uh so you can you can uh boil it for a long time. So I don't first of all I don't know what it is about the canning process on coconut milk that makes it less sensitive to breaking than um than when you make your own coconut milk. I also have never read the ingredient label on coconut milk to see whether they have some sort of process additive to it when they when they do it. I'm I'm not sure. Um but that but as to exactly what's going on in the milk when it breaks, as opposed to for instance, you know, I can tell you pretty much what's going on in milk milk when it breaks.
+
+[28:40] You know what I mean? I can tell you pretty much I mean uh somewhat what's going on in uh soy milk when it breaks, when it when you curdle it rather. But uh I don't really know what's going on in coconut milk, but it's a very interesting question. And uh shoot, we don't have any of our Thai interns around, right? We could call up uh it's like a good question for Weepop to to hunt down David uh Thompson and see what he says about it.
+
+[29:02] But uh it's an interesting question. Hmm. But it w i uh I wish I had an answer for you off the top of my head. I don't, but I am uh I will research it further. You should do it you should do a secondary test.
+
+[29:12] If you have the time, first of all, we all know, except for Nastasha, everyone in the world thinks that Thai food's delicious, right? So I mean like I think this warrants a side by side. I think this definitely warrants a side by side test to see uh do it do it the same way side by side in a pot, and the only thing checking is the um is the is this breaking thing. Now, could it also be that it was much more reduced and then when you had to add more to bulk it back, you were just adding more coconut solids and flavor or not. Well, you know, definitely I mean I either way I end up with I'm putting in three cans of coconut milk, more or less.
+
+[29:45] Right. So, you know, one way I'm sort of dumping all the three cans in at once and letting it reduce a little bit. Um, the other way I'm cooking one can down till it breaks and then adding the last two right at the end. And the tech, you know, so the total volume is pretty close to the same. Uh but the one, you know, has a beautiful texture with a little bit of oil floating on top, and the other has this sort of horrible, almost like it was gelled with a little bit of auger kind of you know, flying.
+
+[30:10] Right. That's very interesting. I'll definitely do more research. I was gonna see McGee in a couple of weeks and I could talk to him about it because I know he's interested in these kinds of things, but I don't think because he had to cancel the event I was gonna do with him. But uh I'm I'm I'm definitely gonna do more do more research.
+
+[30:26] If you don't hear anything uh from me on it in a in a month within a month or so on the radio, it means that it slipped my mind, and then you should repester us via email. Okay. Uh and but in the meantime, I encourage you to run some more tests and uh because by the way, things do slip my mind all the all the time. But but because I am interested. So I uh but we should we should we should definitely work on it.
+
+[30:46] So run some tests if you can and get back to us if you get some results, and if not, we'll get back to you, all right? Okay, sounds good. All right, talk to you soon. Okay, take care. Okay, we're going to our second commercial break, says Nastasha the Hammer.
+
+[30:57] Uh call in all your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues. You feel good? So much bone bell. I feel bellow.
+
+[31:22] We're gonna have a bump good tax. We're gonna have a bump good tax. We're gonna have a bump good time. Take them up, Brian. We're gonna have a bump good test.
+
+[31:37] I'll take him up, Brent. Alright. Gotta take a high brother! Now I won't have a body. Let's bread flow about two courses.
+
+[32:06] Coming back at you with cooking issues. Still time to call in your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. By the way, we're sitting in front of a Z Z Top uh album, an old Z Z Top album, uh TV Dinners, which has like the old school like Swanson style TV dinner on it. So look up the picture to Z Top's.
+
+[32:24] Oh, isn't that Jack? Jack's heading in front of me. Gorgeous, gorgeous picture of some really poor quality fried chicken, corn, some awful form of brown biscuit, and some horrific mashed potato that's clearly been piped out of a tube. Uh wow, anyway, so grooving on it. Love the Z top.
+
+[32:40] Anyway, so uh we're giving a uh a shout out to uh Andy Melka who uh called in uh a little while ago with a venison question, or do I don't know if you remember the email and uh then in fact cooked uh the venison with he built he built his own immersion circulator, which we love DIY people and love DIY projects, although we also love that you go to uh Philip Preston and buy his uh circulators. But um so Andy Andy Melka, you can look him up on Facebook. He posted some pictures uh and looked at him and Andy that they look pretty dang good. His venison looks pretty good. Although you didn't say in the in the Facebook thing how it tasted.
+
+[33:09] You just have a picture of it. So I'm hoping it tasted as good as it looked. All right. So I want to talk a little bit about uh our fundraiser that we're gonna do on March the 27th. 27th, three days before my 40th birthday, by the way.
+
+[33:23] Oh my god. Yeah, three days before my 40th birthday. Uh we're doing a fundraiser for the Museum of Food and Drink, which is a uh, you know, a uh museum idea I I started, you know, well over five years ago, but then kind of put on the back burner when I took the job at the French culinary because I haven't had time. But the idea is that we want to create a museum, you know, uh of not right away. I mean we're not, you know, we're not, you know, we you know we're grandiose, but not in that way.
+
+[33:44] Uh starting museum on the order of uh, you know, like the natural history museum, food, right? But started small. Uh and you know, Patrick here at Heritage uh Heritage Foods and Heritage Radio uh heard about this and we're gonna restart it. We're having a f our first fundraiser, and it's a fundraiser to get you know some money to hire someone to start the administrative process and to actually get the ball rolling to get the actual thing rolling. Uh and the fundraiser is looking pretty awesome.
+
+[34:08] So it's on March 27th at Del Posto. It's a Sunday. Sunday in the afternoon. It's you know, what's what how much is it gonna cost? 250.
+
+[34:16] That's not the point. The point the point is, right? 200 people, 250 dollars. Museum of food. Anyway, so uh but check out the check out the group of people that so far have agreed to participate, right?
+
+[34:25] So we have Audrey Saunders from Pegu Club is gonna be doing drinks, and everyone's gonna have a theme. So I don't have a theme for Audrey yet. What food th uh history theme? Something that relates to the museum. So the museum, which so that either means personalized.
+
+[34:37] Yeah, technology of food, history of food, culture of food, right? And it's personalized to the person. So I haven't figured out what I want to do for Audrey, but she's in. Thomas Wall from Death and Co. is in.
+
+[34:46] Maybe since De Death and Co. by the way, which is a fantastic bar here in New York, Death and Co. is uh the name of an artist who used to draw uh uh paintings to guide people to speakeasies back during the prohibition. So maybe they want to do something prohibition based. Yeah, maybe to play on the Death and Co.
+
+[35:00] Alright. Then during the cocktail uh hour, uh Cesare Casella from uh Seller Mario Rossi, and he used to be the Sultan of Beans. What is he now? No, the Emperor of Beans, and now he's a Sultan of Salumi. Yeah.
+
+[35:12] Yeah, anyway. So he's gonna be bringing some Salumi. I don't know how we're gonna theme it up. He's gonna bring salumi no matter what. No matter what.
+
+[35:18] And it's gonna be delicious, salumi, but Chesre's gonna bring Salumi. Well, how the hell are we gonna paste a theme on top of that? Whatever. He's Chesare. He's gonna have rosemary everywhere.
+
+[35:27] Rosemary's gonna be growing out of his ears, sticking out of his hair in the pocket. You know, I love Chesre. Okay. And so then uh on the savory side, we got Mark because it's at Del Posto, so Mark Ladner's gonna be there. I'm giving him Roman, right?
+
+[35:37] So he's gonna do Roman. So he's busting out his old, his apicious because he's got the Apecious books to do Roman cuisine. But what he doesn't have, this sounds like the guy at the end of Wizard of Oz. But what you don't have is uh no is there's a there's a fish sauce, and I think I've mentioned this on the air before, called Ishiri that comes out of Japan that's made from uh squid guts. They have one made from uh I believe mackerel guts.
+
+[35:57] The one I have is squid guts. Uh and what's cool about it is that uh it's a dead ringer for the actual ancient Roman fish sauce, uh the high-end fish sauce that was uh around the time that uh Apecia is coming out that was made entirely out of uh fish guts, right? And this is the Garum Sosharum, this like high-end garum. And uh I had an opportunity to taste some that was made by Sally Granger, who's an apicious expert, Roman expert, and is uh probably finished at this point, but is working on her PhD in Roman fish sauces. So she gave me some of hers to taste.
+
+[36:27] It was three years old, uh two or three years old, and I was like, bang, this stuff tastes like a shiri, which is a very it's a fish sauce, but it doesn't taste anything like a fish sauce. It tastes like fish sauce missed mixed with canned meat, which it's really cool stuff. So anyway, I'm gonna give Mark some of this stuff because it's the closest thing anyone's ever tasted to ancient Roman uh fish sauce that you can actually go out and purchase uh yeah, Ishiri. And there's a bunch of ishiries. There's one in particular that that tastes really good.
+
+[36:52] It comes from the north of Japan from uh what is it from Ishikawa or something like that? I don't know. Alright. So then we got Dave Chang. Dave Chang, I'm either gonna let we're either gonna put him with country ham, because he and I share this as a bond, country ham.
+
+[37:03] We both love country ham. So it's either going to be some sort of country ham theme which fits into the museum. In fact the first exhibit the museum did was a an exhibit on country ham that I put together uh you know six years ago now uh where we tasted a bunch of American hams and we ate them um basically in the style of prosciutto but don't call American ham prosciutto it's its own product please please don't call it prosciutto uh anyway uh or I was thinking kind of a like a pre-red pepper Korean dishes so going back to what uh Korean food might have been like not might have been like what it was like uh before the introduction of all of the ingredients that came from North and South America. So we're talking no peppers, which means no spicy peppers of any kind, uh you know tomato any of that stuff. Uh none of that.
+
+[37:45] So I thought that might be interesting. Can you tell them the joke one that you made for him? Well I was saying you know for those of you Dave Chang is a good friend of mine and you know you know extremely well known chef uh and uh kind famous for having a uh a a you know a little bit of a temper you know Dave's got a little bit of a temper so you know like when he goes ballistic on people in the kitchen they say they've been Chang banged etc. You know so so well known for his temper. So I was saying well he could he could recreate the dinner that Vlad Tepish the impaler gave to uh this group of people that he then locked into a barn and lit the barn on fire and let them all burn to death.
+
+[38:19] But uh I was kidding and Nastasha actually emailed that to him and he was like hell yeah I'll do that. You know? Some sort of like Romanian impaler theme uh dish. Anyway, we got Wiley Dufrein, my brother-in-law from WD50 is going to come in and do something, but I don't know what we're gonna give him yet as the as the as his theme because I don't want to make him just you know, oh, you're gonna do technology. You're Wiley Dufrey, it's gonna be technology, right?
+
+[38:39] We gotta come up with something and eggs is easy because it's his w famously is n his favorite thing is eggs, but um, but everyone does that with him. So I need to give a little more thought to what uh and by the way, this is an invitation to give us themes uh for the museum based. Uh we have uh Nils Norrin, right? Yes. Yeah.
+
+[38:57] Or you know, Nils Norren. Uh he's gonna come in and uh I don't know, should we just do Swedish for him? I don't know. I don't know. No?
+
+[39:07] No. No. Who who else who else has agreed? Uh Carlo has agreed. From Robertus?
+
+[39:12] Yeah, great. So we well, what kind of theme should we give him? So it's gonna be some sort of farm to table thing, right? Hipster. Hip hip wow.
+
+[39:18] You like that? You like that? Calling BS and someone in their own place? Like, wow, he can come out of the kitchen right now and beat us over the head with a lead pipe. What the hell are you doing?
+
+[39:26] So, what are we gonna do? We're gonna do uh what are you gonna like uh farm the table, maybe? Yeah, yeah. Farm the table? I don't know.
+
+[39:33] People give us some suggestions for Christ's sakes. Okay. Uh then uh did Johnny agree yet? Johnny Azzini? I've like Johnny Azzini, I think he's I I'm not sure.
+
+[39:41] I think he might have agreed. I don't know. I don't know what theme I'm gonna give him. Uh uh Christina Tozzi from uh from Milk Bar. I'm thinking cereal.
+
+[39:49] No. Yeah, maybe. I mean, if she wants to. I mean, she's well known for making kind of cereal milk ice creams and things like that. So if she wants to do it, we'll do it.
+
+[39:56] She's doing a dessert. Uh and then uh Brooks from Del Posto is also gonna do it. And I'm thinking giving him Italian Jewish because you know, my family comes from Italian uh ex-Jews who were expelled from uh uh ex-Jews who were sp expelled from uh what's what am I thinking? Spain during the Inquisition and had to go to uh to Italy. They then converted and became lamb butchers.
+
+[40:15] That's the Adenizio family. That's my whole stepfather's family. So and uh there's a lot of really interesting kind of uh Italian desserts of Jewish uh of of Jewish ancestry. So maybe that, maybe something else. I invite you guys to uh call in and uh g give us your uh give us your feedback on that on what on what you think would be good.
+
+[40:32] Okay. Now uh couple things. One, I've was was realized recently that I've taken on some projects that I probably should not have taken on. So I'm gonna tell you the story about projects that you take that are uh mistakes for you to do. So this person came to us and they're saying said, hey, listen, listen, listen.
+
+[40:54] We're launching, we're launching this thing, and we need to come up with a drink, and we want a drink that goes starts out cloudy and then turns clear. So I gave it some thought, right? And I was like, you know, it's very difficult. It's very easy to make a drink that starts out clear and then goes cloudy. That's like the oozio effect.
+
+[41:09] So you have something in a high alcohol, like an oil that's that's uh dissolved in a high alcohol system. You add liquid water to it, and as you add water to it, all of a sudden the oil isn't soluble, and it it basically goes into a suspension, but it does it in such fine droplets that it turns cloudy, right? And so that's oozo, pastis, all of these uh liquors that you uh add water to and they turn cloudy. But that's exactly the opposite of the message that these guys want to portray, right? Yeah.
+
+[41:35] Like, hey, look, we took the it's an information company. Hey, look, we took something that was clear and we obfuscated it, made it cloudy, right? So they don't want they don't want that. So that was out. So then I was trying to do all these experiments of taking something cloudy, a suspension, and then altering its solubility and making it go clear again.
+
+[41:50] So we tested a methyl cell from hot to cold, having it go up, but didn't work. We then used, and I don't want to hear anything about it, we used milk of magnesia, right? Which is a suspension, and then we increased the acidity, so it went from cloudy to clear, and we got it to work, but it didn't taste so fantastic, right? And it also the effect wasn't as dramatic as we wanted. We wanted milk white to water clear, and I could get like somewhat turbid to somewhat less turbid.
+
+[42:21] So then, you know, and and uh and the more I'm thinking about it, the more I'm like, I really shouldn't get into this because you know I really don't like presentation tricks anyway. I really like to focus on stuff that makes things taste better, but this person's asking me, and it's kind of an interesting challenge, but it's you know, it's just not not my normal line of work. Like I really don't like problems that are just presentation-based. So then uh, you know, I tell her the problems we're having with the cloudy, the cloudy to clear, and she comes back and she's like, well, also it could be blue because our logo is blue, and I'm like, of course it's freaking blue, like the the the least natural color on earth, blue, right? So I'm like, all right, I'll work on it.
+
+[42:55] And I order some blue corn in, and I'm thinking so much that I'm going to be able to do this with the blue corn that we ordered, right? I ordered a 50-pound sack of blue corn. I'm so confident that I could do it, right? Because I figured that in in Peru they have purple corn, chicha morata, but they have blue corn, I can get it to actually blue, and I'm gonna be able to make a blue corn syrup with it, right? So I call her back, stupid, don't ever do this.
+
+[43:16] I called her back and I said, okay, I can do it. So now I'm locked. Now I'm locked into doing this. So I saw uh basically I say that I'm gonna put uh blue corn syrup, I'm gonna put basically I'm gonna make a uh uh you know a tonic style drink that goes on top of it. We're gonna carbonate, it's gonna mix, it's gonna be blue, we're gonna use liquid nitrogen and chill the glasses, gonna be fantastic, right?
+
+[43:35] Sounds fantastic, right? No, no. Blue corn comes in, it's freaking purple, right? It's freaking purple. There is no real blue stuff.
+
+[43:46] Now, then, you know, so you go do some research, and I should have known I couldn't actually get it blue because all of the blues that we're dealing with are based on a group of dyes, uh, you know, a group of chemicals called anthocyanins, right? And these things are uh they're pH dependent, and that's the problem. And all these drinks are fundamentally acidic, and so all of these anticyanins go red in acidic and they go green in ultra basic and can be made to be blue in the right pH range, but that pH range, that basic pH range is not delicious, right? Is not delicious. So we're using an egg white drink with no acid and and blue corn juice, and we got it kind of blue, tasted me.
+
+[44:23] How bad did that taste and smell? Really bad. And the smell was well, first of all, it's very it's very precisely a specific smell that I cannot describe on air. Uh it's okay, vile. But it's in Russian, so you no one would know.
+
+[44:35] Yeah, right. That's your that's your mom's theory. Uh vile, vile, awful vile, vile stuff, right? Uh so anyway, so then we tried to nictamalize the the corn because that's gonna add some basicity and make it more blue. And by the way, nixtimalized blue corn is a delicious for tortillas, and which you know if you've had a blue corn tortilla, and B looks fantastic, but we couldn't make a good drink out of it.
+
+[44:57] All the drinks look terrible, and then we stu you know you start going crazy and you're like, look, here's what I can't do. I can't use blue curacao. Uh which and because I've insult not insulted, but basically insulted a famous Japanese bartender for using blue curacao because uh not because of the blue food coloring, interestingly, but because the quality of the curacao is terrible, right? And so basically using uh like a uh a small amount of a very low quality ingredient to add just a color effect. And I, you know, I said, why don't you just use food coloring?
+
+[45:26] He's like, Well, that would be too easy. He's like, Well, and then someone else asked, I think I said this before, like, why are you adding why are you adding uh an ingredient that tastes bad? And he's like, Well, I'm only adding a little bit of an ingredient that tastes bad. It's not really acceptable, right? So now I'm I'm I'm now karma came back to bite you.
+
+[45:39] Yeah, wow, he's over at the thing. So basically, so yeah, so I yeah, karma came back to to bite me, and now I'm gonna have to use blue food coloring. I think. I don't know, someone help me here. This is like this is like the worst nightmare in my world.
+
+[45:50] Um I'm I'm doing a presentation trick, right? Which is an awful idea. Uh a presentation trick alone, and I've I'm reduced to using blue food coloring. Uh there's a fantastic, beautiful blue flower out of Thailand that's unavailable, but you know what happens when you add acid to it? Turns red.
+
+[46:07] You know why? Because it's freaking anthocyanin that's making it go. You know what I mean? There's just no real way uh around this problem. I really don't, I don't know what I'm gonna do, but it is a lesson.
+
+[46:17] Do not say yes unless you know you can deliver. And this has been Cooking Issues. Come back at you next week. Uh Cooking Issues.
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+[0:00] Nine times out of ten, when someone is taking the time to break away and do their own thing, it's because they either have a specific point of view or a specific passion that really sort of speaks to maybe not a mass audience, but the customers that I have and the customers at Barterhouse tries to culture and and cultivate, I think are are those type of people who want that story and feel like if they take a an allocation of an 80 case made wine that they've got something special and it's something that only they have or maybe one other person has. So that's kind of what we specialize in. And you know, it may not be business savvy to the nth degree, like we're not making a hundred thousand cases of Pinot Grigio and you know, flogging them all over New York. But the customers that get wine from us are kind of believing the same stuff we do, which is supporting these small farms, supporting these young wine makers who have a passion for doing it, and and we supply them with a market and we allow them to get their product out there to otherwise an untapped uh group of people. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network coming to you live every Tuesday from 12 to 1245.
+
+[1:20] I'm Dave Arnold, your host of Cookie Issues. Nastasha the Hammer Lopez joins us via telephone from sunny Florida, where she's driving around in an RV with Piper and Grace, two of our former interns who are spreading the cooking issues love down there in the sunny state. Are you there, Nastasha? Yeah, I'm yeah. Nice, nice.
+
+[1:38] Uh call in all of your questions, cooking related otherwise, to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. Um little note on the Barter House, the uh sponsor for today. Uh they are our wine sponsors for the Museum of Food and Drink Fundraiser coming up in about a month and a half. And uh listeners to the show might remember that we'd sample some of their wine.
+
+[1:59] Booza, uh Tanat uh based wine on the show a couple months back, and we enjoyed it, right, Nastasha? Yes, we did. Yeah, especially with a name like Boozer. Boozer. All right, get out.
+
+[2:12] Wait, Dave, how can people get tickets to the museum event? I don't know. How do they? Why don't you tell me? Well, first, someone needs to make an invite.
+
+[2:19] All right. What you're hearing here is uh Nastasha insulting me on uh on the radio internet yet. Yeah, calling me out as a very soon you will be able to sign on and get tickets to the event and uh taste some uh museum-themed uh food by the likes of uh Mark Ladner, Wiley Dufresne, uh Dave Chang, uh who else we got? Give us a whole list, Nastasha. Nel Norrin, Carlo from Roberta's, um Brooks from Del Posto, Christina Tozzi, etc.
+
+[2:53] etc. Yeah, exactly. And and and a host of amazing bartenders like uh we have Audrey Saunders, we have uh uh Thomas uh Waugh from Death and Co. Uh who else we have? We have uh Simon Ford from Prince Ricard.
+
+[3:05] Who else we got? We got more people. It's we're thinking about Dale deGroff. There's a lot of people that are i i it's it's gonna be good. Let me just put it this way.
+
+[3:12] Uh uh, we beat all of our friends over the head with sticks, and they're gonna come in and make some delicious products. So we hope you we hope you come. And the date on that is gonna be Sunday, March 27th. It's gonna be in the afternoon, so we're gonna get your drink on early in the day for a very good cause. Uh okay.
+
+[3:27] It is an invite. What? Oh, come on, come on. People, people, please. Is it all right she calls me out once, twice?
+
+[3:34] You need to call me out twice. All right, go on, Dave. Go on with the show. Alright, how was the drink that you guys made in uh in Nastasha? Uh viewers from or listeners from last week will remember that I had to basically become a hypocrite and sell my soul to the devil and create a blue drink with blue food coloring.
+
+[3:47] How did it come out? It wasn't your best. It was good. People enjoyed it. Yeah, people enjoyed it.
+
+[3:55] Very good, very good. All right. So uh Dorothy from Heath Glenn Organic Farm and Kitchen, I believe in Minnesota, although I don't know, writes in and said, Oh, it says here, Minnesota. I'm a preserve maker in Minnesota, and I've been working with oils and spices, trying to infuse aroma into the jams and jellies upon completion. Of course, the aroma of the fruit and spices and oils is wonderful as they are warm and cooking, but it is mostly lost when cooled and gelled.
+
+[4:16] I've tried infusing the jams at different stages of cooking, and have pounded woody herbs to release oils, use commercial aromatic oils, etc. Most of the aroma is lost after they've come to room temperature, however. Any comments or suggestions? Well, uh, a couple of things. Uh we have to figure out whether you're losing the aroma because one, the aroma is flashing off uh into the air.
+
+[4:38] I doubt that's the case because uh you're cooking and probably sealing it uh to to can it, I would presume. Uh so I wouldn't think they're flashing off. I also wouldn't think they're necessarily being destroyed by the heat uh during the uh during the process of making the the jams or jellies. Uh I would guess the two main culprits are uh as it gels, uh more of the aroma is locked in, and so you're losing some simply based on gel strength. And the second thing I'm I'm thinking is that these aromas probably are a lot less volatile at room temperature.
+
+[5:09] So what I would do, since the uh pectin is basically uh, you know, it'll it'll it'll melt, but it's not going to totally released when you heat it, I would say heat it and see whether the aroma comes back. It could just be a temperature phenomenon where uh you just need to add more uh of these aromas because they're going to be consumed uh colder, either room temperature or cold out of the fridge. Um so I would think it's probably one of those two things. Either the aromas themselves are being locked up in the pectin network uh as the gels are being uh uh you know, as it's gelling, or two, it's just a temperature-related phenomenon. The temperature-related phenomenon you could actually check quite easily uh just by uh making something and not adding a sufficient uh acid or sugar content for the product to gel and just adding it uh, you know, for the for the aroma, waiting for it to cool but not gel, and see whether or not the aroma is still there.
+
+[5:55] That'd be a good uh first test. But uh get back to us with more uh details about uh the procedure and everything like that, and we'll try to work on it. Um I was hoping to have Harold McGee call in today, but uh he can't, unfortunately. That would have been a great question for him. That's right up uh Harold's alley, right, Stasi?
+
+[6:13] Yeah, it is. Yeah, yeah. Oh, and uh another follow-up, I believe on last week's uh show, uh someone called in and their question was they wanted to make cookies, but they didn't want them, they wanted them relatively thick uh without spreading out too much, but they didn't want them to become cakey. And uh I had a and they asked whether they could use hydrocolloids. I had a couple of half-baked suggestions.
+
+[6:33] Uh I then uh last week uh we spoke to Christina Toze from uh Milk Bar, who's also doing a dessert at the museum event, by the way. Uh and so Tozy and I were talking, and she actually uh says that you can add Xanthan gum, which you can buy at Whole Foods. You can just go into Whole Foods and and buy it, say whate whatever his name is, not Red Rover like Bob Red Mill, something like that, uh bag of Xanthan gum, and uh add some, I don't know percentages. I would add probably on the order of a half a percent by weight of the flour basis or something like this. I don't know.
+
+[7:06] Uh and she said actually it does help limit spread. But the most interesting thing she said was try using high protein flour in your cookies, uh bread flour or or similar. And and basically she said, look, it will stop this, it will stop the spread and keep it thicker, but as long as you don't uh increase the leaveners, it's not gonna make it cakey. And because there's so much fat in the cookie recipe, butter in the cookie recipe, you're not gonna get significant gluten formation, even though you're using a high protein flour. So it's not gonna make it uh uh chewy in a bad sense in a proteiny way, but will limit spread and it's an easy way without changing a lot of your formulation.
+
+[7:44] Uh anyway, so I thought that was interesting and a good follow-up. I can at least pretend like we follow up on some of this stuff, right, Nastasha? That's right, yeah. Uh okay. Uh Joseph writes in and says, uh, I've been listening to your show for a long time and I love it.
+
+[7:58] Well, thank you, Joseph. And he has a question regarding ISI or EC. Nastasha, what's the current thing they like? Do they like ISI? EC.
+
+[8:05] EC? All right. So uh EC, they're the uh the good folks from Austria that uh make uh seltzer makers, the twist and sparkle machine, you know, uh seltzer making machine, uh they make uh whipped cream uh chargers, etc. etc. whipped cream siphons.
+
+[8:20] Uh and uh we use it a lot to uh do uh rapid infusions using nitrous and you can look on www.cookingissues.com for more on that. Uh but uh Joseph wants to know he's interested in the thermal whipper so we can create hot or cold foams and was wondering what my recommendations are. Okay. So the thermal whip uh whippers are different from the normal uh EC whippers, and they're basically just whipped cream makers, and that the thermal whip is insulated like a thermos. All right.
+
+[8:50] Alright? Now, the the good thing about the thermo whip is if you fill the thermal whip with hot water, really hot water, and then dump it out, and then put a hot product in to do a foam, it stays hot for a long time. Similarly, if you want a something cold, if you put ice water into the thermo whip and chill out the inside and then dump it out and put a cold product in, it stays cold for a long time. So it's it acts like a thermos and like a cream whipper to do sauces, creams, or if you want to keep whipped cream out on the counter for a long time in a coffee shop scenario, something like this, it's going to keep the quality high because the temperature is not going to change too much. Right?
+
+[9:26] Now, the downside of the thermal whipper is that even though it looks relatively big, it holds a relatively small amount of product, right? Because there's so much space for the insulation around. It's also very expensive compared to a normal cream whipper. So you're dealing with a lot more money for a smaller volume of product that you can put in the whipper at any one time. So in fact, it looks like a one-liter whipper, but it actually has the capacity of a half-liter whipper.
+
+[9:52] Now, uh, I mean, and that's not a foreign or against. I'm just telling you like what the what the reality is of it. Now, the the other thing about it is is that if you are working in a kitchen, right, so you could take one that's not a thermal whip and you could either store it in the fridge or you could store it in a hot water bath to keep it hot for service. Now it's much more convenient, right, to be able to just put a hot thing and have it stay hot or a cold thing and have it stay cold, but you're going to be paying for that luxury by uh, you know, with with reduced capacity, which actually isn't bad if you're only making a small amount. You don't want to put a small amount of stuff into a big whipper, so it can actually help if you're dealing with small quantities, but you're gonna have a s a smaller quantity and and a higher cost.
+
+[10:35] Now uh it's just something you have to to weigh out. There's nothing that there's nothing that the thermal whip uh will do for you that the other ones can't do. They just make it easier to maintain temperature. All right, Joseph. So I hope uh hope that answers your question.
+
+[10:44] Hope you decide uh which one you want to buy. Of course, we at the uh cooking issues, fans of the uh of the EC folks, right, Nastasha? Yes. Yes, yes, that's what I thought. Um by the way, we still can get calls even though you're on the phone with us, right?
+
+[11:02] I think Yeah, don't worry. I would never block that. Oh my god, I would never block that. I like that. Like we have so many people pounding on our doors with calls.
+
+[11:08] But let me tell you, since we're about to go to our first commercial break, uh, I would like to hear some callers at 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues. Oh, how you feel, brother? Feeling good. You feel good?
+
+[11:33] Thanks so much, Bone Brother. How you feel, mate? I'll feel all right. How you feel, fella? Sure getting down.
+
+[11:48] We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a phone. Welcome back to Cooking Issues.
+
+[12:03] Call in all of your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. Um here for another half hour or so. And of course, Nastasha's hanging out in Florida driving an RV up and down the coast. So she had to stop the RV so that she could call in.
+
+[12:19] How's how's the driving going, Nastasha? Uh, we actually just picked it up and I'm in the RV shop. You're you're actually in the shop. So you're I'm in the shop. So you're staring at at the RV.
+
+[12:29] Is it a sweet ride? Yeah, it's pretty sweet. Mm-hmm. What does it get like half a mile to the gallon? What does that thing get?
+
+[12:35] About that, yeah. Yeah, and you're packing how many people into that? Five. Five people into an RV? Awesome.
+
+[12:41] So is is uh our Piper and Grace giving you the uh giving you the the hairy squint to get the hell uh uh off the radio and into the no I'm the one who's who's been uh pushing everyone to go go go. So I made them all go get food and gas while I'm gonna that sounds like you. That's why you're the hammer. Okay. Uh we had someone call in, actually with some uh write-in rather, with some comments on uh our sponsors and my relative either uh enthusiasm or lack thereof for them.
+
+[13:08] And so I thought I'd share uh some some feelings and you know, maybe make a uh an apology to uh to one. But uh uh a while back we have a sponsor, I think they're still a sponsor, 360 cookware. They don't have me read that one anymore. But basically it's a it's a line of cookware that uh that claims to use a steam technology to enhance the speed at which food is cooked, and also uh I don't know, lock lock in nutrients or something like that. And uh I I was told that I was kind of rude and insulting to them on the air.
+
+[13:36] In fact, Nastasha told me that afterwards, and then I kind of tried to make up for it the week after. But I just want to say a little bit about what happened with that. Here's the deal, right? So my whole life is based around uh food and food equipment and and things like that. And so I always take with a huge grain of salt any sort of claim made by any sort of corporation that anything can do anything uh outside of my realm realm of normal experience.
+
+[13:59] And the problem isn't that I the problem is basically is that I I read the I read the sponsorship thing without uh actually ha ever having evaluated the the equipment, and so it's hard for it's hard for someone like me to straight read something that somebody claims is true, have it come out of my mouth without me being able to verify or no, and and I'm also inherently skeptical of any claims, right? So you know it it seems that and that's probably why they don't have me read these things anymore. But uh but uh but I don't it it it doesn't it doesn't like reflect on anything um I I know about that company it reflects on my on my lack of knowledge and it's just it's hard for me sometimes if I get caught off guard and I don't have the the time or the resources to do uh the proper research, it's hard for me to to say to say something uh either good or bad, and so it can come off as snarky, so I apologize. But that same uh reader um uh heard uh we we have a sponsor here, Sam Edwards, and actually was Sam Edwards our sponsor, no Butterhouse was our sponsor today. Uh Sam Edwards uh from uh S.
+
+[15:02] Wallace Edward Edwards and Son Ham. Uh you know, I've known him for a long time. He makes delicious uh ham products, and this reader actually remembered that and went back and tried the actual ham, the Suriano ham, uh that there was being sold at Murray's cheese on his way through Grand Central, and indeed thought it was a delicious ham. So people, I do not steer you wrong. Uh also I wish it wasn't called Suriano ham.
+
+[15:24] I wish it was just called delicious uh Virginia ham from the S. Wallace Edwards and Company, but that's another story that I've already uh gone through. Right, Nastasha? Yeah? That is right, yeah.
+
+[15:33] Yeah. So anyway, uh so I th and seriously, I think that's why they don't have me read these things anymore. I mean, I I don't know. Yeah, I think that's it, Dave. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[15:43] I'm not a bad I'm not a bad guy. It's just if you catch me when I'm not, you know, when I don't know what's gonna go on, it's just you know, you I never know what even I I don't know what I'm gonna say, you know? Anyway, yeah. Okay. So uh we had a question uh about the Martha Centerfuge story that we talked about, uh Martha, Martha Stewart centerfuge story.
+
+[16:00] Uh it's not like it's not like Oprah where you you know if you say Martha and you're talking people know what you're talking about, then obviously you can just say Martha, but it's you know there are a bunch of Martha's in the world, whereas there's only one Oprah. Anyway, uh I like the Martha Stewart centrifuge story. And by the way, uh Martha Stewart last week canceled on us because of uh inclement weather, and so Martha Stewart's uh centrifuge is still chilling at the uh at the French Culinary Institute, it's being moved from hallway to hallway because it has no has no home. So uh do you know when we're scheduled to do that again, Nastasha? She hasn't gotten back to me.
+
+[16:32] And I sent her the videos of the uh coconut and carrot, yeah. One centrifuge, centrifuge for sale, right? It's like like the old like we have just a centrifuge floating around. Anyway, uh so uh uh they he liked the story, and he'd like to see he sent us an eBay link to another centrifuge asking whether we could fix it up and give it to Oprah. And it was hilarious.
+
+[16:53] I went to the centrifuge link, and it's an old Clay Adams Junior centrifuge. And the most hilarious uh part about it is that uh, you know, for for those of us uh who enjoy a good natured ribbing of our uh Canadian uh northern neighbors, but the canadi it it meets all Canadian Engineering Standards Association uh warrants. Anyway, it but what it basically is is a motor with uh two test tubes that it swings around in the air, like swinging the test tubes around you know in the air with no kind of with no kind of covering. And it was a whopping on eBay, 159.99, which is preposterous for a centrifuge of that type. I mean, ridiculous.
+
+[17:29] I mean, because it's unit's unusable, basically. It's completely completely dangerous. They still actually make manual centrifuges that are completely open like that, and they come either two or four test tubes and they have a crank on them. And I've considered buying them several times. Kent Kirstenbaum, our buddy from NYU actually enjoys these because they make like you know an awesome kind of pro like helicopter noise and they they look incredibly dangerous, which I assume they are.
+
+[17:53] But they're currently only used really for petroleum and oil analysis because you can take them out in the middle of nowhere and spin samples down to check, you know, I guess oil levels, and there's a certain, you know, uh in in a in a particular sample or or or you can s or solids levels in dirt samples. But unfortunately, unfortunately, and I believe Paul sent us that one, unfortunately, uh they don't achieve G levels high enough for us to uh use them for juice clarification. Uh you know, in the videos that I've shot of the inside of our centrifuge that I have yet to post because I'm a jerk, um 2,000 G's is about the minimum where the stuff starts uh really clarifying at an appreciable rate. But even even at that uh at that thing at 2,000 G's, it looks like it's clarifying, but it doesn't form a pellet in the bottom of the centrifuge uh buckets that's strong enough to be able to really decant it uh properly without without like becoming hazy, resuspending some of the crap. So really you want like three to four thousand G's, which unfortunately these guys won't do.
+
+[18:50] I think they'll do just under about a thousand G's. And the other problem is is that four fifty milliliter test tubes isn't really enough to make uh make uh you know uh fruit juice for your even even two close buddies, much less two hundred close buddies. And so uh, you know, although we've considered buying one for uh demonstration purposes, I don't think I will be and although I mean I don't you don't know, I don't know what Oprah wants to do with a centrifuge. If hey listen, if Oprah wants us to fix up that centrifuge, we'll do it. We'll even make it safe, right?
+
+[19:16] We'll build a box around it, you know, we'll we'll shine it all up. I'll get I'll get our intern Brooke, who's the master cleaner, and she'll make that thing look better than it was new. It'll look like uh I don't know. Anyway, uh it's perfect. But if you really want a dangerous old centrifuge, Paul, may I suggest that you go for the Sorval, or as they were known before they changed their name to Sorval, the Serval SS1 super speed aluminum centrifuge, which is basically just a uh an eight position uh uh you know 50 mil rotor, uh aluminum rotor, like from the 50s.
+
+[19:47] It looks like a Jetson thing on a motor on a stand. And there is little that has scared me more in my food cooking life than firing up the Sorval SS1 dangerfuge and having that thing going at full speed inside in a kitchen. Uh Nastasha, did we ever throw that away or did we save it for sentimental reasons? We gave it to an intern. Really?
+
+[20:07] Who? Piper? Yeah. I don't remember who took it, but someone took it. You know, we had to give it away because my in uh my inherent problem is is that if I own it, I will be tempted to run it for some reason or another.
+
+[20:19] Right? And it's it's just a terrible, terrible idea. An awesome, awesome paperweight and a terrible, terrible idea uh to use. All right. So uh Ken uh Ingber uh sent us some questions, and one of them's on ultra pasteurization milk and uh its cheese making properties and its foam making uh properties.
+
+[20:40] Uh and so uh he recently uh was working on making mozzarella uh cheese uh from scratch. Although, you know, most people when they're making mozzarella, especially if you haven't done it before, I recommend buying the curd first and then testing your mozzarella skills on just the uh on the you know on the actual pasta filata part on making the the cheese in the in the hot water. That way you can perfect that that portion of it before you go to the actual part of making the curd. Although we all know that I would also do the same thing and go directly from milk to uh to cheese, and there's no way I would buy my curd. So I I obviously think you won't do that, but uh still uh I should just let it say that I rec I should recommend that.
+
+[21:16] Anyway, uh so one instruction everyone gives uh is to avoid ultra pasteurized milk um because uh it they don't form curds properly. And so he's not using ultra-pasteurized milk for uh for that. Uh and but then I went to look it up and see see why it's actually quite interesting. When you uh pasteurize milk, you denature a certain port of the uh of the whey proteins. Uh uh basically I think it's uh beta-alactoglobulin, right?
+
+[21:40] And you as they denature, they have a tendency then to uh to adsorb onto or to complex with uh the casein. And what happens when you're um when you make cheese, when you make curds with uh rennet, which is the qu enzyme that's used to make you know most cheeses, is that uh it basically cleaves off a hydrophilic part of the uh casein, casein micelles, and makes it such that they're more hydrophobic, and because of that, they tend to aggregate together and form a cheese curd, right? Now, if you uh pasteurize your milk too much, too high a temperature or for too long, the denatured whey proteins basically glom onto the casein and present prevent them from uh from forming a good gel from aggregating together and forming a good gel. So ultra-pasteurized milk, where you really can't make a good strong uh good strong curd curd out of it. There's been some studies recently, I didn't get a chance to read it too much though, that that's not the only thing going on because they tried to they basically removed all of the whey proteins from milk, so it was just basically a casein suspension.
+
+[22:42] Then they heated that and they still had uh problems uh with uh getting it to aggregate properly if it had been cooked to higher temperatures. So there's actually more more than one thing uh going going on with it. Uh but a lot of people uh have been there's a couple bunch of reasons why you'd want to pasteurize to uh a higher temperature. One is because uh certain cheeses have uh infection with uh clostridium tyroabutyricum which I've sure I've pronounced in incorrectly but it makes butyric acid later on in the cheese ripening and can make it smell I don't know what's a good word vomit like vomit. And so they try to kill that with ultra high temperature pasteurization but it really stops the cheese from ripening properly later in the uh in the process because it also destroys some native uh milk enzymes that are needed uh for the protein ripening uh further down the line so there that you know that's what I spent my morning reading about that that kind of stuff but he actually wasn't interested necessarily in making cheese but in whether or not ultra pasteurized milk is going to make a difference in frothing for cappuccinos.
+
+[23:39] And uh I don't know. I assume it would because uh the protein in milk is one of the things that's helping form a stable uh milk foam when you're when you're frothing cappuccinos. Uh and so I would assume and you know as we all know uh milk loses a lot of its uh well not as we all know if you're a cappuccino head or a milk frothing head you you know most people recommend not taking your milk as you're foaming it uh much above I mean they they don't recommend taking it much above one 140 a lot of the times Fahrenheit really 150 uh in that range otherwise if I don't take it up there my wife thinks the drink is too cold. But uh presumably you're inhibiting the fill uh the the formation of foams with a similar reaction where you're basically uh in in inhibiting the ability of the casein uh to act as a as a as a good uh foam stabilizer. This is my assumption.
+
+[24:27] I don't know. I could be a hundred percent wrong but this is my assumption. So I would assume that ultra high pasteurized uh stuff does not foam as well, although I have not tested it. But what was more interested in is that it turns out that oh, and and he was also asking because he has a little thing called an aerocino. And even though he's the fellow that wrote in about the aero press, apparently the aericino is not related to the aero press.
+
+[24:49] It's a little thing that foams uh foams milk by having a little squiggle doodle. What do you call it? Spring, squiggle doodle, squiggle doodle, what anyway. It uh whips a little spring around and heats the milk to create a foam. And yeah, you know, you can make a good foam uh just by agitation.
+
+[25:04] You don't need an arrow squiggle to do it. You know, when I when I'm you know in the wilds, and by that I mean at my mom's house or at my mother-in-law's house, you know, I always foam uh milk by shoving a whisk into a coffee mug, heating the milk and swirling the whisk back and forth between my hands, uh, you know, spinning it almost like a like a chocolate, like a coffee, a chocolate frother, like a Mexican uh chocolate frother. And it works okay. It doesn't work great. And I think uh, you know, it might be possible to get a decent, and the question for any kind of foam head with coffee is not can you produce bubbles?
+
+[25:35] Because any moron can produce bubbles, it's whether you can produce uh microfoam, right? So like the real coffee heads, if you show them a foam that you made in your cappuccino machine, even if you really like it, right, but it has lots of big bubbles on the top, they're like, that's dishwasher soap, that's crap. You know what I mean? They want like a dense, stable, uh or semi-stable, but very dense kind of microfoam, almost you know, where the bubbles are so small that they're almost you know imperceptible when you look at them. They don't look like a big batch of bubbles, it just looks like a dense uh creamy foam.
+
+[26:05] And that's what they're looking at. And I have my doubts as to whether or not you could use a spring uh to do it, although I'm probably wrong. I'd like to see someone maybe I haven't had time to go on Coffee Geek, which is a great website for you coffee heads uh to go on to, but um I haven't had a chance chance to go on and see whether or not anyone's created a really nice microfoam with one of these little whip doodles. Uh as I just got it Nastasha, you think of a better name than whip doodles. But even more interesting than that is that Ken is an owner of a uh uh of a La Chimboli uh Liberty lever machine, right?
+
+[26:39] Now for those of you out there who don't know about lever pulled espresso or you know, don't drink espresso any. If you don't drink espresso, go out and learn to drink espresso. But if you uh if you like espresso as I do, um, you know, you're gonna at some point spend a lot of time researching lever pulled machines. Now uh I myself am an owner of uh microchimboli, which is a small uh lever, lever operated uh chimboli chimbalies uh an espresso machine manufacturer. But I'm I'm an owner of one.
+
+[27:09] Uh I don't use it anymore because it's a big pain in the rear. But lever pulled espresso machines to my taste make the best espresso that you could possibly have. Now my my relationship to espresso machines goes back to the uh mid to late nineties when I was uh going to uh restaurant auctions in New York City and buying restaurant equipment on the cheap. I realized very early on that you know there's no way I was gonna buy myself a you know a home uh a home espresso machine because you know everyone on the internet, and I was reading the professional, you know, the professional baristas were like, you know, there is no home machine that can make real espresso. And and back in those days, there really wasn't.
+
+[27:44] I mean, there was the uh there was the uh the Ranchillo uh oh man with this Sylvia was I think around at that point, I'm not I think, and people were modifying it, but no one had modified the machines to the level that they're modifying now. So really the only uh thing you could do was you could uh get a real commercial espresso machine, which is what I did. And went to an auction, and I believe I said this on the air once before, but I you know i the New York Times has auctions in the back of their or they're used to in the back of the help wanted ads. And uh restaurants are closing all the time here in New York. So I went and this one I was super excited because the restaurant had been shut down because of they had been dealing drugs out of the restaurant.
+
+[28:19] And what that meant was that the whole building had just been padlocked and all the food was still in there, and the stench was enough to like completely like blow your pants off. It was that bad as stench was so awful. And what that meant was is that none of the normal restaurant uh equipment dealers or chefs could stand it, right? Because you know, they had other things to be doing with their lives and dealing with this hard stench for hours. Me, on the other hand, as a just ex-grad student with about two nickels in my pocket and desire, you know, desiring a professional espresso machine that cost thousands and thousands of dollars, was like, this is an awesome opportunity.
+
+[28:53] So I stuck around, uh, bought uh uh uh you know a two-head ranchillo commercial espresso machine for like a hundred and change dollars, and paid paid a a literal just got out of Riker's ex-crack dealer crackhead to drive it to drive me with it in his station wagon back to my house, my loft at the time. Realized I didn't I knew so little about espresso machines at the time that I didn't realize that the pump was a super uh important part that was separate, and I accidentally left it in this guy's car, and I had to call him and like go to his to his house and retrieve this pump. But anyway, it got me, launched me on my on my love of espresso. But I became interested in lever machines at the time because it another way to generate really good espresso without having like a big pump, is to just basically use your hands to have uh a piston to force the espresso out because espresso is, as I've said on the show before, not possible at the lower pressures that that people are using. You really want somewhere in the area of about and thirty-five or so, a plus or minus a bunch PSI of pressure pushing uh coffee at a very precise temperature through a compressed coffee puck, you know, in 22 to 28 seconds.
+
+[30:07] That's espresso, right? That's that's it. That's all you got. There is no more. So um, so anywho, so the the lever machines are great, and there's always a fight between true lever heads who say that lever uh lever espresso is better, uh, you know, and the people who use uh the the pumps and say the pumps are better.
+
+[30:23] Uh now uh there's two basic lever styles. The one that everyone gets, the the La Pav the Pavoni la, you know, Europe piccolo, right? That's the clunk one that you see in the stores, it's all shiny chrome. In that one, when you pull down on the piston, you're applying the pressure to the actual uh coffee puck and putting the uh putting the water through. In all commercial espresso machines, and interestingly, in the chimbely micro uh in the microchimbale lever machine, which is a home machine, uh all the commercial ones, your hand when you pull down is engaging a spring, and then when you release it, it's the actual spring that's providing the pressure.
+
+[30:56] And for years, many people wrote in their in their blogs and whatnot that the reason that lever pulled machines were better is because, or different anyway, is because lever pulled machines had a constant pressure, whereas the rotary pump that we use in modern espresso machines is not as even a pressure, right? And that's why they say that that's the difference between the two. So basically, then the difference is in a nutshell that you get more crema in a rotary pump machine, but you get a smoother tasting cup in a lever pull machine. And uh, and I I didn't you know think about this, and then uh you know, well, I did a lot of research on it because uh about four or five years ago I went to the National Restaurant Association show and someone was pulling shots out of a lever pull Vittorio Arduino, which is not you know aesthetically not my style, because it's all you know gussied and horred up with brass and all crap like that. But but this guy pulled two shots, one out of the one out of that and one out of uh uh a La Mart Soca, which is a sweet machine sitting right next to it, and same barista, same beans, and the Arduino blew the Lalmart Soco out of the water.
+
+[31:55] It was one of the best cups of espresso. It was definitely the best cup of espresso I've ever had in Chicago, let's put it that way. But it was one of the better cups of espresso I'd ever had. And uh I I I resolved right there that I was going to figure out uh the lever machine. And here's what it is that makes a lever machine better than a than a pump machine, or to my taste, better.
+
+[32:13] It's not that it's smoother, it's that the pressure changes, right? Because I had been thinking if I was gonna build one of my own, how do I compensate for the fact that a spring is gonna exert more force when it's at uh when it's compressed more? And didn't Stasha get lost off the thing? It's gonna uh exert more force when it's compressed more and less when it's compressed less, right? So uh it's not that the rotary pump is more uh e is less even, it's that the spring pump actually changes its pressure from the beginning of the shot to the end of the shot, which makes for to my taste a smoother, better cup.
+
+[32:43] And so one thing I've been working on for the past couple of years, but uh and I haven't finished building yet, although I have done handmade tests of it, is uh espresso machine where you can adjust the pressure during the shot. And uh it the true story is is that if you manually adjust the pressure from uh from high, right, at the at the initial part of the shot, a little bit over 140, and then drop it down uh towards the end of the shot, you can do a lever pull my shot with a uh a lever pull style shot with a rotary pump. Jack is telling me that we're gonna go to our next commercial break, so call in all of your questions to 718 497 2128. That's 718 497 2128. You feel good!
+
+[33:26] So much bone, brother. How you feel, man? I'm feeling all right. I don't want all people to know you're in here. How you feel, fella?
+
+[33:34] Hey Jam! Sure getting down. Look at him. We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time.
+
+[33:49] We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. Ow! Alright. You wanna do it again?
+
+[34:09] Yeah, let's go on there. We gotta take you high. Brother. Yeah. Now I want everybody.
+
+[34:23] Let's bread blow up by two corps. And then I wanna wave in. Let's go and do that. I'm gonna get that bella with a little horn over there. Brad, can you take us higher?
+
+[34:37] Yeah. Take us higher. Brad. Bad! Welcome back to Cooking Issues.
+
+[34:49] Calling your questions too. 718-497-218. That's 718-497-2128. Someday we'll play that song long enough to get to the down D funky D part because, you know, it's all about the down D funky D. Uh oh, one more thing interesting is that uh about uh pasteurization, going back to pasteurize ultra-pasteurized milk.
+
+[35:07] Jack says he's not been able to uh ever adequately froth uh ultra-high pasteurized milk, you know, even like the the fancy organic stuff. And the reason, of course, that they ultra high pasteurize that stuff is so that you can increase the shelf life, I guess because they have small distribution runs. But another interesting thing on pasteurization in general is we have a new clarification technique in our centrifuge that I haven't uh written about yet, where we use a combination of silicosol, kesel salt, and chitosan, which is a polysaccharide, unfortunately derived from uh shellfish, so you know it's not for vegetarians, uh, where we can now clarify lime juice in our centrifuge in uh you know, with 98% yield or more. It's crazy and it's super fast, it doesn't involve agar or any other nonsense. It's awesome, and it's all stuff you can buy at a homebrew shop, but unfortunately you have to uh own own it on a centrifuge.
+
+[35:55] But what's funny is it doesn't work on pasteurized tropicana orange juice. And uh so if anyone out there has speculation as to why I can clarify fresh orange juice uh and fresh grapefruit juice, uh, but I can't uh clarify pasteurized uh orange juice, but I can clarify pasteurized uh grapefruit juice, um, please let us know because it's something that uh I can't I can't figure it out, so I don't know don't know what's going on. Got another uh uh question in, uh actually more you know, more of a comment, something to think about, something I hadn't th thought about. Uh a while back someone asked us about different tubers. So we did a kind of tuber of the world uh, you know, uh thing.
+
+[36:37] And one of the things we mentioned is that while a lot of tum tubers like cassava have uh, you know, can have uh potentially deadly levels of uh cyanide precursors in them, so they need to be uh treated properly. That uh other ones have very high levels of uh oxalic acid. Um and so, you know, which is uh um usually concentrates in the in the leaves and whatnot, but have to be cooked properly. One of those is taro so we were talking about uh taro you know the same stuff that you make uh you know you know tarot putting out of and all that tarot chips all that uh and uh so we were talking about oxalic acid and one of our uh you know listeners brought to our attention the fact that there is a uh probably a more occurring now but uh less known disease called ox oxalosis and so uh and you know it basically causes kidney stones uh well yeah it what if you have kidney stones it means that you're not getting rid of uh your excess uh um oxalate um but uh uh it's something I hadn't I hadn't thought about but what he he said is that there's it the science is crazy because the list of foods doesn't seem to make any sense so you can't you can have all the ingredients in French toast let's say but you can't have French toast and uh you can't have uh you know you there's a whole lot list of things that you can't have uh I would encourage anyone to write in and tell us anything they know about this I'm interested in it. My mom just got over a really really bad bout of uh kidney stones and so uh it's something uh I'm interested in so if anyone uh writes in we'll do a little thing on uh on diet and uh oxalic acid and oxalate uh oxalosis but it's definitely something that we should be more uh probably more more attuned to something that I hadn't really really thought about.
+
+[38:13] Uh so n Nastasha tells me that I have a bunch of questions that I haven't actually gotten to because I've been yapping about uh stuff that I'm interested in. So uh Nastasha what are those uh what what questions am I missing out on do you know because it's uh I throw them to your email but one guy wants to know how to make great brisket. How to make great brisket? Cook it right. I'm kidding.
+
+[38:31] No, uh, if you want to make uh great brisket, the question is what kind of technique, uh what kind of technique do you want to use? I mean, you can do low temperature cook on a brisket, but uh it's not going to have the same uh taste uh and texture as you would have like a classic uh Texas style brisket because it's an entirely different cooking technique, both are low and slow. In a classic technique, you're using the the the poor heat transfer of the cook of the medium and plus the f the evaporation off the surface of the meat to ensure that the meat doesn't uh dry out too much during its long cooking period. Although that sounds contradictory, I think it's what I meant. Uh whereas if you do it low temperature, you're typically going to be doing it in a bag.
+
+[39:08] I would probably cook it on the order of the length of time that I would cook. If you're doing low temperature and you want to uh basically like throw it into a Ziploc bag with a little bit of fat, uh I would I would say uh depending on what you want, between sixty degrees uh Celsius for about uh fifty six hours, or uh I would try uh all all the way up to sixty-three for uh degrees for uh like forty, forty, forty-eight hours, or even as high as sixty-five for um you know, for um for like thirty six hours or so. But uh if you want the brisket to have that cured taste, then obviously you're gonna have to put some tender quick or some nitrite into it to uh to get it to have that cured taste, and then a vacuuming it down would cause that to to penetrate faster. Um but I haven't read the email, so I don't know exactly what what uh is being looked at. I only you know, I uh this is just off the top of my head, like different things you can do to brisket.
+
+[40:07] Is that does that answer pretty much the question, Nastasha? Having not read it. Yeah, I mean he just said that he saw your um fried chicken recipe and he wanted to know if you had any good recipes for brisket. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[40:20] You know, I now when I do fried chicken at at home, uh I I still love that recipe. Carlo here at uh Roberta's has like a crazy recipe that I think is derived from the Pies and Thighs uh franchise which had closed and then reopened uh here in New York. And they have an insane, uh insanely easy recipe that really makes me kind of upset because uh because I liked it, but it was you know goes against all of my knowledge of good chicken making, and that is they they take it directly out of the brine, the chicken. They don't dry off the skin or anything like that. They throw it directly into AP flour, uh, I think with uh maybe some salt and pepper.
+
+[40:55] I don't know remember if they added baking soda or baking powder, but no egg, no nothing, no milk. And then fry it directly. And I thought it was pretty good. What do you think, Nastasha? Yeah, it was delicious.
+
+[41:03] Yeah, anyway. So that's something I'm gonna research on fried chicken. But currently, the problem with fried chicken when I make it at home is that uh fried chicken has to be fried at a lower temperature than uh French fries and onion rings. And so uh to the way I always used to do it is I fry off all my chicken, ramp my ch my temperatures, and then and then bust out all my fries, which is fine at at uh at dinner, but at a party it becomes kind of a hassle because you can't throttle your fryer temperatures up and down like that 'cause I have a thirty five pound deep fryer at home, which is a commercial deep fryer. Uh so what I do now is I I do uh cooking for uh what I call low temperature for insurance.
+
+[41:37] I bag insur cooking insurance that is, not like you know, insurance like for your house, is I bag uh all of the chicken in the mil in a very small amount of the milk brine, very small amount, just enough to get a good seal on on a Ziploc bag. And I cook the uh the breast meat at uh sixty-four for about an hour Celsius, and I cook the leg meat at sixty-five and a half for about an hour, uh and then I pull them out, and when they're hot, I pull them out of the bag and and put them on a grate so that the skin can dry off just from the heat of the uh uh evaporating off the chicken. And that's the crucial step when people do a low temp before they fry that they forget to do on a chicken because they they let it cool in the bag and then they pull off and they get really bad adhesion of the flour and batter to the chicken skin. So the secret is pull it out when it's hot, let it flash off uh in the open. Then I do my traditional uh my traditional uh breading technique on it, which is uh it goes into a buttermilk egg make it goes flour, buttermilk egg, uh baking soda, baking powder, and then back into flour, and then uh and then you fry it.
+
+[42:36] And then I can fry the chicken at a very high temperature, same temperature as my fries, and I know it's perfect every time. I don't have to worry about it going over or under. I don't have to stick a knife into it and stick it against the my bottom lip to see whether or not I've cooked all the way through, which is what I used to have to do all the time. Uh so it's really a good way of doing chicken if you have an immersion circulator, some access to uh low temperature. Uh otherwise you have to just cut the chicken pieces smaller so that they cook cook through faster.
+
+[43:00] Um did I have any more questions I didn't answer, Nastasha? Yeah, someone wants to know how to do duck confite sous vide. Ah, so duck confit sous- vide uh or low temperature if you don't have a uh you know an actual vacuum machine is an interesting, interesting uh problem. So we don't do low, low temperature. In other words, we don't cook at any lower temperature than you would normally cook it because um confie, the texture of confie is only achieved at the higher temperatures you'd associate with the normal braising.
+
+[43:28] However, sous vide is a fantastic technique for doing confie for several reasons. First of all, you still have to cure the duck legs beforehand, right? You have to cure them with uh salt and you know whatever herbs you normally rub in, let it sit overnight. But you don't need a lot of fat. This is the primary thing that's great.
+
+[43:45] You don't need a lot of fat to do uh to do confi sous-vide. You could basically bag the leg by itself with maybe an extra tablespoon of fat, if that uh seal it, you can seal it really hard uh because uh you you yeah, you have a bulk bone in it, so you need to seal it pretty pretty hard. And normally when you seal poultry on the bone, the problem is the blood is sucked out of the red stuff sucked out of the bone, it can lend pinkness to the meat that doesn't go away even when you cook it. But confis cooked so high that you don't need to worry about it. Then just throw it in the simmering water in the bag for you know three hours or so until you feel that you can feel the bone through the uh through the duck meat, and you know it's done, pull it out, let it cool down uh you know, uh, you know, a little on your counter for 20, 30 minutes, uh, and then you know put it in the in the fridge or in an ice bath and chill it down, and it's perfect.
+
+[44:32] It's so not messy compared to normal comfy. You can do individual leg portions by themselves, so you can easily if you're a family of two, you can you know cook the breasts for you know one thing and then just comfy just those two legs and then uh serve them whenever you want. Uh and so it's really super easy for someone to comfi, especially at home when you don't have a zillion uh duck legs lying around and you don't have like buckets of duck fat and you haven't been saving duck fat from rendering all the breasts like they do in restaurants. Uh the thing's never gonna overheat, it's never gonna go bad. So it really is a fantastic technique for doing uh duck confie, but I would basically just use simmering water, or if you have a circulator set it to about 85 Celsius and run it run it that way until it's done.
+
+[45:16] And uh I think it's I think it's great. I mean, uh it's not necessarily better than traditional Konfi. It maybe it's probably a little moister, it's not necessarily better, but it definitely is a great, great way to do uh duck confie, especially at home. Did I have any more that I missed? No, because it's time and your time is up.
+
+[45:32] Yeah, but did I miss any? No. No. Alright, and here's one more thing on the way out. I am gonna soon write my post on uh UP Hedric's Fruits of New York series, the greatest pomological reference library of all times.
+
+[45:44] And yesterday I acquired the last two, I'm actually missing one more, but the last two of uh of the series. And so now I am the owner of the greatest pomological reference series of all times. This has been Cooking Issuals. We'll see you next week. Got me on this corner.
+
+[46:05] And I don't know where I'm at.
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+[0:11] Hello and welcome to an on-time edition of Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network, coming to you every Tuesday from 12 to 1245. I'm Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, here again with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, back from her Florida trip. Calling all of your questions, cooking related or otherwise, to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. Today's show is brought to you by Hearst Ranch.
+
+[0:37] Hearst Ranch is the nation's largest single source supplier of free-range, all natural, grass-fed and grass-finished beef. Since 1865, which is a long time. The Hearst family has raised cattle on the rich, sustainable native grasslands of the central California coast. The result is beef with extraordinary flavor that's as memorable and natural as the surrounding landscape. For more information, go to www.hearstranch.com.
+
+[0:59] That's www.hearstranch.com. They actually supplied the uh the ribeye for the uh Heritage Radio fundraiser that was uh a couple months back, the one where we did the banana soustino drink. Delicious. Right? Delicious.
+
+[1:12] Delicious. Good product. Anyway. Uh so yesterday was Valentine's Day. And uh What did you do for your wife?
+
+[1:20] Uh I bought flowers because I'm lazy. But the uh that's not the point. The point is is that uh I was reminded by my uh I was reminded by my uh third grade son the horrors that used to be Valentine's Day. I was that kid uh who, you know, when everyone was buying carnations for everyone, you know, they would buy carnations for their friend for like a dollar. Like I was the one that got the mystery admirer carnation.
+
+[1:40] Like they would they didn't think I understood it, that meant that no one bought me a damn carnation. And that's so they they just give one to you because no one's purchased one for you. You know what I mean? You know that kid? That kid was me.
+
+[1:49] Right. I mean it's like Valentine's. I didn't have that sympathy. Oh, geez. Oh, really?
+
+[1:52] Well, it's California. See, everyone thinks New York people aren't sympathetic, but in fact, you know, like they give out the sympathy carnation. We're actually good people over here in New York, for those of you that don't know us. Uh anywho, so you know, Valentine's Day was, you know, basically a yearly uh living nightmare horror story for me. Actually, up until uh, you know, uh 1990, uh 1991, no, 1992, right, when I was 20, uh, was the first year I had a good Valentine's, and it was the day I started dating uh a actual, you know, cracker jack, smart, badass, verifiable hot chick, uh who whom I eventually married and who's my currently my wife.
+
+[2:33] So um anyway, so Valentine's Day ended up being good for me, but was horrible for the first 20 years. And my son had this happen. Uh he was uh, you know, gave a Valentine to uh a girl in the third grade, and uh which he would never do, he's not that kind of a kid. He gives it to her and completely rebuffed. No, like, yeah, Valentine on the floor, I don't want this.
+
+[2:53] Complete horror. I felt felt awful, and my and my my younger son, his brother, basically, who's an equal mix of really sensitive, sweet kid and gun-loving, crazy, rough and tumble boy monster, uh, goes. Alright, we're either gonna kick her in the face or dip her in poop. And then uh like, you know, no one's saying anything because they don't know what to say because it's this crazy thing to say. And then after a couple seconds, he's like, So which is it?
+
+[3:20] Kick in the face or dip and poop. Anyway, that was Valentine's Day. So yeah. Hey, yeah, no nah, no nah. Anyway, I wasn't calling him out too bad.
+
+[3:30] I guess everyone knows him knows my son. Anyway, so uh another thing, we're announcing we just sent out the press release for the uh Museum of Food and Drink a fundraiser. Uh and the Museum of Food. Do we have a call in? Yeah.
+
+[3:41] Alright, so I'll take the call first so I can spend the adequate amount of time on the Museum of Food and Drink. Hello, caller, you are on the air. Hi. I've been working a lot lately with preserved lemons and Indian lime pickles and Yuzu Kosho. And um I realized recently that I didn't actually understand kind of the mechanism of what's going on with salt, cure, and citrus like that.
+
+[4:01] It's the affinity, acidity and the salinity are too high for any sort of microbial or bacterial mechanism. So it's just gotta be sort of the salt, the sort of controlled rot. But I don't really know what's going on. The whole thing gets darker and the gets thicker and the texture changes. I wonder if you could explain a little bit about what's going on there.
+
+[4:21] Wow, that's actually an excellent question. I haven't really I haven't really thought about it. I'm sure that there's gotta be some sort of there's gotta be some sort of bacterial growth, right? Uh otherwise it would be purely an enzymatic reaction that's causing it to happen, which I don't think it is. Because it the thing definitely changes over time, right?
+
+[4:42] So if it changes so if it changes over time, either you're dealing with an enzymatic process, or you're dealing with a uh bacterial slash enzymatic process, or it's probably not a yeast-based or uh any sort of fungal-based thing. I know that you know who's an expert in this is Harold McGee. Um I'm gonna s I'm gonna speak to him relatively soon. I should ask him. You've caught me completely off guard on something that I haven't studied.
+
+[5:07] I do know that if you that certain things do happen in them that look like they're uh like they're bacteria based. For instance, it you can get you can get situations when you're curing them uh with certain kinds of lemons where you get like ropey substance forming in the in the cured lemon thing, which is probably some sort of polysaccharide, which I would guess, which I would guess is formed by uh bacteria, but could be just some sort of wonky thing happening to the pectin over time. I don't know. I wish I did. I'm sorry that do you have a question?
+
+[5:29] I might have an answer to this. This is like the first time I've been completely hundred percent stumped on what the correct answer is, right? Right, Nastashi for the Science Center. Yeah. Um I can't think of I think I've listened to all the episodes, and I've never heard you miss one before.
+
+[5:48] So you know, I should give you some sort of prize for a complete for complete stump out. But what I can do uh is go I'll go online and uh I'll go into like the actual literature search, not just like the regular internet. I'll go into like uh I'll go into Columbia's database of uh of uh science literature and I'll see if I can't find the stuff and barring that um I will I will ask McGee and he will tell me what's going on. And we did have a question where I did follow up next week. So Nastasha is now being very good about making sure I follow up.
+
+[6:18] So listen in next week for the answer to the question, alright? Alright, and I'll uh I'll post something to the forum to remind you. Cool, thanks a lot. Okay, bye. Oh, depressing first call.
+
+[6:28] Stumped. Stumped stumped. Well, that's me, big jerk. Anyway. So um Museum.
+
+[6:35] Museum. So the Museum of Food and Drink uh is it you know a museum that uh tried to start uh a long time ago, like six five, six years ago, six I guess, and uh, you know, Patrick Martins and I are now trying to get back off the ground again, and we're having a major fundraiser, and the fundraiser is gonna be on uh Sunday. Sunday Sunday, March 27th. Uh, and it's gonna, you know, it's not cheap. It's what is it?
+
+[6:57] It's cheap for the for the food it's a good thing. Well, for what you get is cheap two hundred and fifty dollars. It's it's it's not inexpensive, but it's a bug in the right. It's a five hour extravaganza. Well, we don't know.
+
+[7:06] We up to five hours extravaganza. Anyway, so we're we're putting it on, and here's the current, and what we're doing is we're getting a bunch of chefs and bartenders to come in to Del Posto, which is a fabulous, you know, restaurant in uh in uh New York, four stars. Our friend Mark Ladner is the is the chef there. Uh, and we're getting a bunch of chefs and bartenders to come in and cook things based on specific themes, right? So we're giving them a theme, and their dish is gonna be inspired by it.
+
+[7:30] So here is the list in no particular order. Dave Chang, his uh theme is American food circa 1491. So that's gonna be all foods that don't have uh, you know, all foods from the Americas prior to uh the Colombian Exchange. So that should be interesting. I'm thinking he's probably gonna do something with acorns, which was a big native uh, you know, Native American uh food stuff, but also a big Korean food stuff, so he could probably pull in like you know different levels of uh of work there.
+
+[7:54] So I'm assuming he's gonna do something with acorns, but who knows? Uh Wiley Dufrein, uh, you know, from uh WD 50, my brother-in-law. I gave him, because he's well-known tech guy, I gave him caveman food. He was kind of mad at me, but you know, what are you gonna do? Caveman food.
+
+[8:10] Paleolithic. Uh Mark Ladner, uh the host chef from Del Posto. I gave him Ancient Rome. Uh and so uh Wiley actually texted me and was like, hey, you gave uh you gave Mark a softball there with the ancient Rome, but not really. Ancient Roman cuisine is extr extraordinarily different from uh modern Italian cuisine, has a completely different basis, uh like you know, spice and and ingredient basis, you know, based more on uh on uh s um uh lovage seed and uh fish sauce and uh you know just a whole different ingredient base than than what's known.
+
+[8:42] So it's not really a softball. Uh that's what he's gonna be doing. Nils, Nils Norrin, uh uh, you know, uh kind of of the French culinary one, right? I gave him, just to be a jerk, I gave him fad diets. See what he does with that.
+
+[8:54] Fad diets. Uh Cesare Casella, who's coming at the beginning, gonna uh give us a whole bunch of delicious salumi uh to fit in with the fact that we knew he was gonna bring saluvi. We gave him shriveled meat as his category. Uh and then, okay, Carlo from Robert's, whose last name I've I've never been able to pronounce, so I'm gonna try the way well, Mirachi. But you gotta say like Mirachi.
+
+[9:15] Anyway, I don't know how you're supposed to pronounce it. Anyway, he's gonna do New York food circa the uh early 1900s, or is that late 1800s, early 1900s? 1900s. Early 1900s, okay. Brooks Headley, the uh pastry chef from Del Posto, is going to be doing Hebrew food in Italy, because there's a big group of uh of uh people that basically had to leave Spain during the uh Inquisitions, settled in uh Italy and brought some very interesting uh dessert things with them, uh, you know, some of which uh are kind of big in my family.
+
+[9:43] And uh Christina Tozi, also of Momafuku Milk Bar, or from Momafuku, but a milk bar, we're giving her, this is a tough one, space food. Here's why we're giving her space food. She's like, space food, why are you giving me space food? I was like, well, Christina Tozi, other than being, you know, the fantabulous Christina Tozi that she is, little known fact, she writes a lot of the Hasset plans uh for the sous vide programs here in the city that chefs have. And HACSIP was uh originally developed by large food corporations like Pillsbury uh and for the space program.
+
+[10:11] The idea being that they needed uh they need a zero tolerance food system because if an astronaut gets the poops in the in the space, it's a big problem. So, anyway, so is uh Hasset was developed uh in part for the space program and uh and is now used in basically in all industries for food. And so I gave her that as a as a as a tip of the hat to uh her uh HACCP skills. Audrey Saunders from the Pegu Club will be making drinks. Thomas Waugh from Death Co.
+
+[10:38] uh. also Simon Ford, the uh head, uh I guess head bartender bartender for Pronot Ricard, uh Damian Bolti from Prime Meats, and Evan Clem from BR Guest Restaurants and fellow techie related bartend dude will be doing it. Uh all proceeds will go to the Museum of Food and Drink. Please go to H T T P colon forward forward mofad dot that's M O F A D like Museum of Food and Drink. Event Bright.
+
+[11:02] Spell it improperly. B-R-I-T-E dot com. That's HTTP forward forward mofad.eventbrite.com for more info. All right. That was a long plug.
+
+[11:14] Anyway, because we want you to come. It's going to be a great, great time. All right. Now, on to real questions. Uh I have a question about tempering chocolate in the microwave.
+
+[11:23] Most of the instructions I've seen are very complicated, requiring a good candy thermometer and often instructions to use a microwave multiple times or add additional cold chocolate to the microwave chocolate, stirring, etc. etc. I've tried about three or four times simply putting two cups of chocolate chips into the microwave until they turn glossy and removing them, stirring them until they melt. Each time this two-step process has worked just fine. Are the additional steps and temperature precision really necessary?
+
+[11:45] Have I just been getting lucky or is something else at work? Kurt Kastorf. Well, uh, I think you're just lucky, Kurt. Anyway, uh, but but uh the point is uh is that if you that recipe works for you, like you'll you will be repeatably lucky. If you do the same thing and it's and it's working, then it should be able to repeat itself.
+
+[12:04] Because here here's what's actually uh what's actually going on and what why the recipes are are so complicated. And by the way, you have to make sure that the chocolate is actually uh tempering, right? Like so uh you know, you have to make sure it's actually getting a good temper. I mean, obviously anyone can just melt chocolate in the microwave. The question is, are you getting a good temper?
+
+[12:22] If you are getting a good temper, and by the way, for those of you well, you'll hear. Anyway, so chocolate has basically the cocoa butter in it, has roughly six ways of uh of crystallizing, right? The the the cocoa butter can form six different crystal structures, and those crystal structures have different uh different properties, right? So uh you know most uh and and those crystals have different uh melting points, right? So what happens is uh badly tempered chocolate is mostly in uh form four, which is also known as uh beta prime, and good tempered chocolate is in form five, which is beta crystals, right?
+
+[12:58] So what happens is if you uh heat chocolate up, melt out all the crystals, and then cool it down too rapidly, which is basically any kind of cooling that you're gonna do to it is too rapid, uh it will form mostly uh type four beta prime crystals. And what what what those are is they're soft, right? They because they have a lower melting point, so they're very soft, they have a lot of uh they don't they're not hard, they don't have a snap, and they're dull looking, they're not glossy. All in all, they're kind of crappy. And even if even if you didn't care about all the fact that it did, you know, it didn't have good texture and it melted too low, if you store those for a long time, they will convert from beta prime to beta.
+
+[13:35] And that sounds like it's a good thing, right, Nastasha? Because the beta is what you want. Yes. Yeah, but it's a bad thing. You know why?
+
+[13:40] No. No. Well, it's because uh all of the forms of uh of as they get more and more hard and more and more stable, when they go from beta prime to beta, they contract. And when they contract from beta prime to beta, they squeeze fat out of the uh cocoa part and you get that white fat bloom on the top. So poor poorly uh poorly uh tempered chocolate will get fat bloom very quickly, even if you didn't care about the snap and all the rest of that stuff, right?
+
+[14:06] Okay. So and and so that's why the typical old school uh hardcore tempering technique is you melt out all of the crystals by taking it up to you know like a 115 or so Fahrenheit, sorry, Celsius heads, we're gonna do this one in Fahrenheit. And then uh you rapidly cool it down uh to you know in the in the eighties somewhere, and then crystals start forming, and then you reheat it up to about ninety-four or so to melt out all the crappy beta prime crystals, right? Now all you have in there is beta crystals. Now when you cool it again, she'll be tempered because those beta crystals will act like little seeds that everything kind of hooks on to, right?
+
+[14:42] It's all about seeding it, right? The easy way, and that's if you're starting from all you have, you're on a desert island, you have a pot, a thermometer, and a bunch of untempered chocolate, right? That's how you would do it. Most of the time, what we do is we just melt the chocolate, right? We take it up, melt it, bring it down into the range where uh beta crystals want to form in the nineties, right, and then stir in chopped up tempered chocolate that already have the good seeds in the good crystal form, and then all of a sudden, all of the chocolate as it cools will form those nice stable uh beta crystals, right?
+
+[15:14] And but you need at least um you know about you know one to three percent of uh beta crystals mixed all throughout it, so you're stirring it right to cause it to happen, to uh to seed it to seed it properly. Now, when you're doing it in the nuke, right, you're starting with uh hopefully with tempered chocolate. If you start with tempered chocolate, right, and you nuke it so it's like you say just glossy on the outside, and then you stir it so long as the temperature of that thing is in the beta zone, right, in the like nineties, and not a low temperature where you're gonna be forming uh bad beta prime crystals, right? So as long as as soon as that last piece of chocolate melts, you're still in that like you know, ninety ninety, ninety two, ninety three, ninety four Fahrenheit range in there, ninety five in that zone, right? Then you will uh seed properly with uh beta crystals and it'll work.
+
+[16:04] But the reason they have it like taking it all the time and stirring it and then sometimes throwing in seed chocolate is because they're assuming that you're gonna overheat the mass of chocolate so that when it's all melted, it's not gonna be in the right temperature range. So, yes, you got lucky, but maybe you'll get repeatably lucky. If I were you, I would save some seed chocolate to stir in after it's all melted, just in case, and you can take the temperature when it's done, and that should give you the answer. So long-winded, but I mean chocolate tempering is an interesting uh subject. The good reference book to get on chocolate that's small is uh The Science of Chocolate by Stephen T.
+
+[16:35] Beckett. It's expensive but small and fairly easy to read. Uh I think probably a smaller investment and faster to read than uh the other book that people use now, chocolate science and technology by Emmanuel Apho Aqua, right? And I don't know that anyone uses the old chocolate reference. This is one I started using back in the day, which is Minaphy.
+
+[16:53] Minifee's big old chocolate book. Right? And with that, we will go to our first commercial break. Call in all your questions to 718-497-2128, 718-497-2128 cooking issues. Alright.
+
+[17:20] Gotta take high brother! Now I won't have a body. Let Red blow up by two cores. And then I want to wave you and let'm gonna get that belly within a fella with a low horn over there. No, James, get it take us higher.
+
+[17:46] Take us higher. Red. Give a big arm about the bread. Hello. You know what?
+
+[18:51] When I hear a groove like this groove. Oh, they got it. Yeah, baby. Well, welcome back to Cooking Issues. Calling your questions to 718-497-2128.
+
+[19:08] That's 718-497-2128. And although that's the longest we've played that song during the intermission, we still have not made it to Funky D. He's gonna make it to Funky D in a little while, but we'd be here all day if we waited for James to go down to Funky D. Although it is well worth the wait. I encourage you all to go out and do it to death, as James.
+
+[19:25] I guess I actually did since he's now dead. Anyway. Right? Dumb. Really dumb.
+
+[19:29] I'm a dumb man. What do you want out of me? Okay. Um Jason writes in from England, and I think he was listening actually to two weeks ago, saying that uh he was listening to me answer the question about cookie texture using hydrocolloids, and he says more conventionally, you just use high high gluten uh flour, uh, and you he won't get a bready uh bready cookie, he'll just uh limit the spread, which uh you know I actually got confirmed and said last week from Christina Tozy, but here's uh you know, further confirmation that what you want to do to get your cookie to not spread so much is use a high gluten flour. Jason adds a secondary uh thing, which is also uh let the uh let the cookie rest in the fridge uh for uh 24 hours.
+
+[20:08] I guess that will I guess develop the the I don't know, maybe well the cold will limit the spread as we said, but also maybe developing some of the some of the flour more. I don't know. But anyway, uh thank you, Jason, for for that tip. Uh now, we had a question and it sent me off on like a uh on a bunch of research. So you're gonna have to hear another one of my long-winded nonsense things.
+
+[20:29] Uh but Chris Anderson writes in the way you get to your long-winded call. Oh, we have a caller? All right, caller, you are on the air. Hey, how are you doing, David? Doing all right.
+
+[20:38] See if we get a double stump this week. What do you got? My name is Matt. I'm actually calling from Chicago. Hey, Chicago.
+
+[20:44] Hey Matt from Chicago. Actually, I used to work in New York with Wiley and Mark and all those guys. Um, you're not you're not at uh you're not at uh you're not out there with uh Mike Sheeran, are you? Where are you cooking out in Chicago? No, I'm I'm actually a few chef at a steakhouse, but uh that just opened it's crazy busy, but it's a whole different story.
+
+[21:03] Yeah. Um my question is, um I'm really interested in the uh nitrous infusion using the uh ISI cream whipper. Right. And um I was wondering if you tried it with any viscous liquids like say honey or some kind of uh scented syrup. All right, I haven't, but if I if okay, so here's the thing, right?
+
+[21:22] Honey has uh honey is just extremely thick, right? So if I was gonna do it, I'm uh I it would I'm assuming it would work, but I think you'd want to keep the whole thing like f war like warmer than we normally keep it, right? So I would I I would put the whole ISI in or EC which is it that they like now? I would put the I would I would put the uh no no no it I do it. Oh it's not you, it's me.
+
+[21:46] I can't because in in here it was one and in Europe it was the other, and they're trying to make it both the same now, but like no one can keep it straight. And when I say no one, me, no one else seems to have a problem. Anyway, EC. Um so I would put the whole thing into a uh into a uh warm bane marie for a while. And the reason is you just need it to be uh thin enough to to get accurate you know, to get punched into the pores of your product, right?
+
+[22:09] So if you if it's if it you get it nice and liquidy uh by warming it, then I think it should uh work. You know, and but you have to keep you have to keep it liquid, like warm during the whole process down to the time when you're venting it so that it can also bubble back out again. I I've never tested it, but I I have uh I have high hopes that it will work. Let me put it that way. Outstanding, sounds cool.
+
+[22:31] But give it a shot and then let us know how it works. Oh yeah, they will. And I got another thing on the Uzo effect. Um I was listening to the old shows on the way into work the other day and I was like I honestly I didn't believe that you could cloudy the water. I used to drink pastices a lot, and I didn't think that the water uh that the liquor would get cloudy just by dilution.
+
+[22:50] And so I had to try it, and the the interesting thing is is that it does obviously get cloudy by dilution, but if you put it in a microwave for less than ten seconds, the cloudiness goes away. And then by adding more ice cubes to it, the cloudiness comes back. So I tried it with with bo boiling hot water. I tried it with water tea water, and I still gets the cloudiness still comes in from dilution, but it goes away much faster with heat. Huh.
+
+[23:17] So it's an interesting interesting thing. Yeah, so huh? So when you're heating that actually makes sense to me, right? So what's happening is you're adding water, and uh as you add water, you reach a point at any given temperature where the oil is no longer soluble in that percentage of ethanol, right? And so it it it forms instantly forms little uh micro uh you know droplets of oil, and that's what makes it look cloudy.
+
+[23:43] If you let it sit at that temperature for a long time, uh sometimes depending, I don't know with pastisted but with some of the stuff that I make, uh, that that cloudiness, the oil will actually float to the top, and then it won't be cloudy anymore, right? Uh but what you're saying is is you heat it, and when you heat it, you're re-increasing the solubility of the oil into the remaining ethanol fraction, right? 'Cause presumably you're not boiling. If you boiled it, you'd probably make the problem worse. But by heating it, you're increasing the solubility uh of the product and causing it to go clear again, and then when you drop the temperature again by adding ice, you're doing two things.
+
+[24:18] One you're watering it down more, which is going to increase the uh the dropout, and you're also uh decreasing the temperature, which increases the drop. But that makes sense, but that's interesting, but I've never experimented with it before. Yeah, yeah, it was just a weird thing. I thought I had to try it out. So I'd lets you know.
+
+[24:32] Alright, cool. Thanks a lot. Thanks, man, and I'll let you know how the honey goes, okay? Very good. Thanks so much.
+
+[24:36] Give me another call. Sure, take it easy. Oh, we have another caller. Caller, you were on the air. Hi, Dave.
+
+[24:41] I was uh messing around with some Nepalese the other day, and I cut them into cubes and I was uh just soaking them in some water and I noticed this gelatinous substance was forming. And I guess that's the s the uh the substance that the cacti used to like uh retain moisture in the desert, right? Uh right. It's like well, like a hydrocolloid similar to like what uh aloe vera has, right. Okay.
+
+[25:02] So is it like a mucilage like okra or like philae or is that a completely different like uh you know that's interesting. I haven't researched whether or not it can be used as a thickener. It is sure is slimy. Interestingly enough, on Sunday I was cooking uh nopolis, and you know how well I mean, uh when I when I cook 'em, I always, you know, I I try to get the um I try to get the spines off with the minimum of damage because I know they're gonna ooze out a lot, you know, and so I usually grill them first and then let them cool down a bit before I slice them so they don't get too slimy on me. But I've never tried to actively uh actively extract the slime.
+
+[25:40] So did did you then did you decant the slime off that was in the in the water and then try to use it for something or no? I did not, but uh I probably will try it in the future. But uh the first thing I thought of was like okra and other you know other thickness, and I wonder how it would uh compare and if I mean I'm sure it's probably e look, I mean all different hydrocolloids have different um actions, and we're used to thinking of hydrocolloids as being these things that come in powdered form. But in reality, hydrocolloids are all uh not all most uh are f are just like what you say. They come from natural sources and they've been discovered in natural ways.
+
+[26:15] Like most of the seaweed, uh seaweed, like you know, you can extract carrageeninan from uh Irish moss by boiling it, right? Or you can uh and so okra basically is uh has this kind of uh snotty, slimy stuff that is actually a natural hydrocolloid just not one that's used uh industrially so it doesn't get lumped in but m you know many products have um you know the these things so there's a chef from Spain I forget who it was who did it but you know made uh made a lot of demos basically using the natural hydrocolloids in aloe vera right although I guess if you if you do that that wrong it can give you the poops because of the latex but yeah but the um uh so to you know to answer your question I I don't know I don't know of any commercially uh used uh cactus based thickening things but I you know it it it is it it is some polysaccharide right so it is some hydrocolloid and then the question is what are its uh what are its properties it doesn't seem like it's a gelling hydrocolloid right it seems more like a thickener if you if you ask me but the question is like will it thicken without making too sl making things too slimy. It's a fairly slimy stuff you know what I mean it's it's more on the order like you say of okra. And so when you overthicken with okra as opposed to filet like like those those uh those things can take on a bit of a slippery nature right which I actually kind of like for those dishes but some people don't you know what I mean like some people don't some people don't get down with the okra. I I happen to think that okra is one of God's gifts to you know humanity.
+
+[27:41] I love okra but um a lot of people a lot of people do not I don't know why it's fried okra is one of the great things in the world anyway um uh so I think again uh I have noticed this effect um but I haven't seen whether there's any you know what I'll do again uh I'm not gonna count this as a complete stump by the way because I I do know what you're talking about. Uh but what I'll do is I'll try and see whether anyone has characterized what the uh polysaccharides are in the nopolis. And by the way, for those of you don't know what the hell we're talking about, I realize napolis are like uh prickly pear cactus leaves. You can buy them in uh Latin stores. Be careful because uh some of them are relatively innocuous, but some of them the spines can be pretty nasty and can get in your fingers when you're working with them.
+
+[28:20] Scrape the uh scrape off the uh spines with uh with a knife. I cut off usually the very uh tip end, which is the only part I cut off because it's hard to scrape that thing accurately, brush with oil, salt, pepper grill. Uh enjoy it because they're delicious. They're also kind of sour, they're s slimy and kind of tart and kind of delicious. Don't you think so?
+
+[28:38] I think so. I agree. Yeah. Anyway, so I'll I'll try and see whether anyone has characterized what the polysaccharide is in there. And meanwhile, you see whether you can thicken up a uh stew with them and uh give us a holler back.
+
+[28:49] All right, thanks, dude. All right, very good, thank you. Let's take a break. All right, we will take our Nastasha's telling me we will take our second commercial break, even though that was a short segment because I took the long one too last. Anyway, 718, what is it?
+
+[29:00] 718497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues. You know what? We're not here, groove like this. Oh yeah.
+
+[29:49] Black way up young man. Look at you. Someone got a groove like this. You know? No.
+
+[29:58] No. I need to grip. Need to grip the bit no bread. You know. I've a three.
+
+[30:25] Hey, bread time. Bravo. I'm getting ready to wave y'all in. You know what? I feel so down.
+
+[30:33] I need to get down. And all the vomiting gets down. I got to get in D. And all the Bomita get down. I got to get in D.
+
+[30:43] Need to get in D. Dog the D. Here we go. Down D. Funky D.
+
+[30:52] Thank you D. Down D. Ow! Oh yeah. Down D.
+
+[31:03] That's the balls. Goes down to D. Everyone else goes up. James goes down. Back here, cooking issues, calling your questions too.
+
+[31:11] 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. Alright, Chris Anderson writes in and he says, I've tried making authentic French macaroons a few times. Macaron a few times. Uh, and while they taste great, I don't seem to be able to achieve the polished flat look of uh La Dre, La Durée, which is you know the famous uh French macaroon shop in Paris.
+
+[31:32] Mine tend to crack and collapse as they are baking. Would it help to use an Italian meringue instead of a French? Could the meringue be too stiff? Is the open temperature too high at 180 Celsius? Are there any modern ingredients I could add to improve the result?
+
+[31:44] I'd really appreciate your uh advice. So, first of all, when we're talking about these, these uh you know, macaroon macaron, whatever you want to call them, uh what we're referring to here, the La Dure style is basically a sandwich style with uh either a ganache or a jelly filling in between two soft uh almond and egg white based delicious things. They come in various colors, and they like fried okra are one of God's great creations. Uh and I I love them. So, okay, so here's the thing.
+
+[32:09] I have a lot of things to say on this subject, right? But I will I will tell you that the first and foremost, I just walked up to one of our pastry chefs today and was like, all right, you know, this guy's having this problem. What do you think? Here's what here's what uh Chef Jurgen, one of our lead pastry instructors, said. One, what kind of sugar are you using?
+
+[32:27] If you're using a coarse sugar to make your uh meringue or to fold in with the sugar with the almonds, try going to a uh try going to a um my brain's gone, a finer grade of sugar. He also said that if you're if your things are cracking and collapsing, perhaps you aren't deflating your uh perhaps you aren't deflating your uh your your egg whites enough before they go in. So there's too much air left in the mix and they're it's puffing up too much and cracking and collapsing. I thought that was really interesting. Because most of the time when you try to do a recipe with an egg white, you you want to make sure not to deflate it.
+
+[33:00] And he's saying, well, maybe you're not deflating it enough. I thought that was very interesting. Um the other thing is uh I'm not sure I didn't do the the conversion uh from uh Celsius to Fahrenheit, but if your oven is too hot, it can puff up too fast and collapse. Also remember most recipes tell you to leave the door ajar when you're cooking uh these things because I guess they want the uh steam to escape. So th those are all those are all things, things to look at.
+
+[33:26] Uh but uh in the course of researching your uh problem, uh I came across these things which you may or may not find find interesting. One is just a book that I think everyone should own, but nobody does. It's almost completely unavailable. It's called Perfect Bakery and Confectionary by the Richemont Craft School, and Nastasha's gonna be gloating because I'm uh you know pumping a Swiss group and she's like she's Queen Switzerland. But uh this craft school in s in Switzerland puts out uh this series of books, but this one, Perfect Bakery Confectionary, is unavailable except through them, and it's like $99.
+
+[33:57] It really makes me angry. And uh I can't find it on BookFinder or anything, but it's one of the great pastry books because what it does is it has pictures side by side of hey, what happens when the flour is too fine, too coarse, just right. And it'll show you a picture of all the bakery stuff. So they're they have a like a four-page section on macarons, but they're unfortunately they're not the kind you're talking about. They're the old school Italian um, you know, denser, not sandwich-based uh cookies.
+
+[34:22] All right. Uh secondly, um I will go through a a a s a short history on on the macarons. The macaroon, obviously, uh originally an Italian product, uh, and apparently derived from the same word as uh as uh macaroni because it's ground. It's basically any form of kind of ground almond paste and sugar uh that is then has egg whites added to it, right? The French ones uh you know are are beaten egg white, but they don't have to be beaten.
+
+[34:47] They can just be mixed in for a denser, denser macaroon. That was the original one uh taken to uh taken to France with the medicese when they went over, right? The coconut stuff is a later uh is a later addition where uh almond was in whole or in part substituted with uh shredded coconut. Uh and so that you know that's how the coconut macaroon. So most Americans you ask them about a macaroon and they're thinking about a coconut product, but that was actually derived from the the almond-based one.
+
+[35:12] Now, the mac the macaron that we're talking about, this sandwich, everyone credits everyone credits uh, you know, uh the uh this guy at La Dere in the early part of the 20th century with uh inventing it, right? And the guy's name, I forget what it is. I have it here. Pierre uh Defontaine, right? Uh that it was the grandson of the original La Dere, right?
+
+[35:31] He they say he invented this idea of of making a double decker macaroon uh uh putting ganache in uh in the middle. And uh I don't think that's I mean that's what everyone says, that's what everyone on the internet says. Uh but I was researching this and I went to one of the great, one of my favorite, other favorite pastry books, which uh you can actually get for free on the internets because it's old. Uh it was written in 1904, and it's called uh Modern Baker Confectioner and Caterer, printed in 1907, rather, by John Kirkland. It's a four-volume set, and you can actually get them.
+
+[36:06] It was published in England, and you can still get it cheap, and these are a fantastic, fantastic set of books. State-of-the-art baking from 1907. And actually, I think they were kept revising it up till 1930. And copies are still cheap. It's four volumes, and you can get each one for like, you know, 13 bucks if you're in England.
+
+[36:23] But it's shipped over here, it's like 20 bucks because that no one in the US has them. It's an English only thing, which is where I bought my copy. Um But uh I was researching macaroons then, and prior to when La Dere was supposed to have invented it, right? They had uh they had something where b basically uh they would always sandwich the macaroons together to form a nice appearance, and that's why if you read recipes, and this is only for macaroon heads out there, they'll tell you to put it on parchment on a uh and when you pull it off the baking sheet to put some water between the parchment and the thing to make the macaroons come off easier. In fact, they were on wafer paper before and put on water which would dissolve the wafer paper and you could pull it off and the bottom will be tacky, and you could stick the two macaroons together to make a macaroon on macaroon sandwich.
+
+[37:05] Now, one of the recommendations that this book makes, I think is very interesting, is if you uh have problems sticking these two things together, right? Then because maybe they're not wet enough or they're just not sticking, then you can take some all uh some apricot jelly they recommend and wipe it between, forming what up a standard La Dere style macaroon. So maybe this dude at La Dere humped up a bunch of macaroons one day and was like these things aren't sticking together, and then put a ganache instead of a jelly in between them all and sold that as like you know, the the cool thing because they definitely popularize them. You know what I'm saying? Anyway, so those are my thoughts on macaroons, and you should definitely go out and uh look on the internet for uh Kirkland's uh modern baker and confectionery or buy a hard copy like I have, has a really good section on molding and cornstarch, and has a lot of I mean, even though it's very old, has a lot of um a lot of if this goes wrong, do this, if that goes wrong, do this, etc.
+
+[37:56] etc. etc. Really uh great uh set of books. And they also have an interesting thing to say about macaroons. If you're making macaroons in the US, and old school, they're talking about old school Italian macaroons here, right?
+
+[38:06] Uh if it is that they're very influenced by the amount of oil in the almonds. So if you're making it from scratch with a California almond, you're gonna get a very different result from if you're making a macaroon with uh like a European or Marcona, something like that, it has very high fat content. Because a lot of the California almonds we get have a lower fat content. And what they're saying is is if your almonds don't flow well enough, if they're too pinched up, you're probably using an almond uh with not enough fat. And if they flow too freely, maybe you're using one with too much fat.
+
+[38:34] They were talking about uh buying almond pastes that were adulterated, either with nonfat products or with or with extra fat, but it's something that I never thought about. I thought was very uh very, very uh interesting anyway uh so uh so that's that for the the macaroon I love macaroons don't you love macarons I would like one right now I would like one right now as well anyway okay so uh now on to the last question I have to excuse me I have to reach over and get the paper we are a paper based show today instead of an iPad based show today which is very interesting uh okay Joe Blute who is a uh at Dallas where is he Dallas College right? I don't know the first page of it. Dallas? Dallas.
+
+[39:14] Dallas Dallas. Dallas? Yes Dallas. Anyway, uh he writes in and says some uh very kind words uh about about us and uh he said uh he had a couple couple questions right so one he was he he's by the way thinking of building his own uh rotary evaporator and uh he's a chem oh chemistry major at the University of Dallas. He's trying to he's good thinking about building his own rotary evaporator.
+
+[39:35] So am I so am I Joe but unfortunately I haven't had the time to do it. Hopefully sometime very soon I will have the opportunity to do that more on that in a couple minutes. But he also uh is looking for a budget centrifuge and I think we posted on that a couple times trying to find a budget centrifuge. Don't go too budget right make sure that the centrifuge is safe. That's uh that's what I'm gonna what I'm gonna say.
+
+[39:56] Um but he has a question that uh I want to get to and he says uh uh I really love uh the multifaceted aspect of the culinary arts that you get to deal with and what you do is something I am interested in uh the mixture of organic surfact and kinetic chemistry is fascinating. How do you come to have such a great job and what do you recommend I do to move towards such a position? Okay, here's what I say. One you know, f food science is we we don't do food science, right? We use science to make food, which is kind of a fundamental difference.
+
+[40:28] Like I don't really I don't have like a big uh you know uh I can't do quantitative chemistry, I can't do anything like that. All the stuff we do, there's no real analytical work. It's all using principles and ideas with either standard uh kitchen cooking wear or things that we've repurposed as standard kitchen cooking wear. So when I'm using a centrifuge, I'm not using a centrifuge to do uh to analyze uh something. I'm using it to try and create a delicious product, right?
+
+[40:54] When I use a rotary evaporator, I mean, although I am purifying and distilling, I'm not doing it for the same reasons that a chemist does. It's not part of an analytical uh study, right? Or even a production uh uh of uh like a drug or something like that. So what I do is very specialized, and it's in and we read a lot of science, and I love science, and I do it and you know I I love it, but what we what I'm actually doing day to day is uh cooking. And so we're you know, we're what you have to do to kind of get to do the kind of stuff that I get to do is cook a lot.
+
+[41:26] You know, and so um, and not just with science and and and and tech stuff, just do a lot of cooking. You need to have a lot of cooking under under your belt. You need to love cooking, you need to love tasting, you need to taste everyone else's uh stuff, you need to be uh curious about um all different ingredients and uh what they do and and how they interact. You know, I think McGee said it best when he when he you know he wrote a book called The Curious Cook, and that's the name of his uh that's the name of his second book, sadly, out of print. Hopefully he brings it back into print.
+
+[41:56] It's a very personal book, uh, and it basically just shows that you know what you need to be McGee is to well, what you need to be McGee is to be like a real sweetheart and also smart, uh, you know, very smart and also read a lot, but be very curious and be very observant about food. And that's you know what you really what you really need to do. The second part of it is you have to make friends in the food world. That's the sad truth. You know, you could sit around and be, you know, know a lot uh and do a lot, and if you don't have uh friends, it's hard to network and um get an actual job where someone will pay you.
+
+[42:28] Uh and so luckily nowadays it's a lot easier with the internet to get to know people and to become more known in these kinds of subjects because the subject matter, people it's a very s small group who you know care about uh technology cooking, but it's uh you know, you can kind of get in touch with them more than you used to. But of course the bar is higher than it was, you know, let's say six uh six years ago when I started uh you know doing this or five years ago when I started working at the French culinary, there were fewer people who were known for doing it, and the the bar to entry was lower. Um so anyway, that's what I recommend. Cook a lot, uh get to know some people in the food world uh and you know, eat a lot and cook a lot. That's basically the answer.
+
+[43:08] And while we get to it, uh he says, Thank you for putting your experimentation online. It's been a pleasure reading about them, and hopefully I can try some of them eventually. Uh again, thank you for the compliment. And I will say we apologize uh yet again for the lack of posting we've had recently uh recently. We've been uh very busy, very, very, very busy, and uh working on some new ventures.
+
+[43:28] So I am now officially March 1st going to basically be starting my own consulting company, uh, which is we've been working on, which is why we haven't been posting so much. I'm still gonna be the director of culinary technology at the French Culinary Institute. I'm still gonna be teaching classes, and I am still going to be uh maintaining uh cooking issues as the French Culinary Institute's uh cooking blog. Uh and you'll be happy to note people who bother me about not posting that I will be contractually obliged to write one post a week or at least four a month. Uh but uh it allows us to do some other fun stuff, like we can take on outside people if they want to work, do stuff for cooking issues.
+
+[44:05] So if there's someone out there who is uh doesn't mind getting beaten down, because we'll beat you down, doesn't mind uh you know, who's a complete perfectionist uh when it comes to like thinking about things, right? Who you know what I mean, right, Nastasha? I mean I'm I'm a pain in the butt. You are a pain in the butt. Yeah, but you know, if you like the style, right?
+
+[44:23] And if you and if you if you think the way that that we think, uh, you know, then maybe you know if if it doesn't bother you spending you know a zillion years worried about what what's going on inside of a corn kernel during nixtimalization, well, you know, maybe maybe and you want to do this for little to no remuneration, maybe you too could work with cooking issues. And that's this week's cooking issues. Uh we hope to hear from you next week. Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows.
+
+[45:06] You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up to date news and information. Thanks for listening. And the guest can't get it straight.
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+[0:00] Sometimes just getting through the day feels like a lot. And when you're overwhelmed, reaching out for help can feel impossible. You may wonder if it will even make a difference. Here at Rogers, we meet you in that moment with personalized care for anxiety, OCD, eating disorders, depression, and substance use. One step at a time with compassion and support.
+
+[0:19] At Rogers Behavioral Health, one step can change everything. Visit Rogersbh.org or call 800-767-4411 for a free screening. Hello, and welcome to Cooking Issues here on the Heritage Radio Network. I'm Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, and we're here with Nastasha the Lopez Hammer. Just phoned back from Miami just this morning.
+
+[0:50] Call in all of your questions too. Nastasha, give them the number. 718 suppose. Aha. Brutal.
+
+[0:58] 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. Hammer the Nastasha Lopez, huh? I know it, I know. She doesn't even have our number in her brain, huh?
+
+[1:11] Anyway, coming to you live for the next 45 minutes or so. Uh today's uh episode is brought to you by Hearst Ranch. Hearst Ranch is the nation's largest single source supplier of free-range, all-natural, grass-fed, and grass-finished beef. Since 1865, which is a long time ago, the Hearst family has raised cattle on the rich, sustainable native grasslands of the Central California coast. The result is beef with extraordinary flavor that's as memorable and natural as the surrounding landscape.
+
+[1:35] For more information, go to www.hurstranch.com. We've had their beef and it's uh it's quite good, right, Nastasha? Yes, Dave. All right. So, um, we actually I got back, what, yesterday?
+
+[1:47] Day before yesterday, Nastasha just got back. We were at the uh Miami South Beach Food and Wine Festival. I was doing a uh thing majig for the Liberty Science Center, which is having an exhibition on cooking, which is gonna open up in the fall, the science of cooking, which is gonna be very interesting. Chris Young from uh the new Modernist Cuisine Cookbook was uh doing it with me, and we were basically fluffing for the food network stars, you know, like uh Guy Fieri and uh Rachel Ray and uh Tyler Florence and you know the Ace of Cakes and uh Giada and all these people were were coming out to do a show for uh the kids and their parents, and we would sit there and uh do some some science questions, fluff them up a little bit. But it was fun.
+
+[2:25] We had uh a bunch of little kids ask us about uh liquid nitrogen. I had a kid ask me if uh agar agar was a chemical. I was so jacked, so when asked me that question, I got to go off on one of my favorite tangents about how uh you know a cow is a bag of chemicals, etc. etcetera. Uh so it was a it was a lot of fun.
+
+[2:40] But the most important part of the entire thing was that we got to visit some rare fruit fruit places, tropical fruit places in South Florida. So those of you that know me know I'm kind of a uh a temperate uh fruit nut. Uh Nastasha and I have gone sampled pears at the Kent at the Broedale, a couple hundred varieties. I've done uh a couple hundred varieties of apples at the uh Geneva station, the uh agricultural experiment station up in upstate New York. Uh anyway, I'll go anywhere to semper uh sample um a whole boatload of uh temperate fruits.
+
+[3:11] We've done s semi-tropical stuff. Nastasha and I did citrus uh you know almost a year ago at uh Gene Lester's ranch out in uh Watsonville, California, a couple hundred varieties there. Of we only tasted a hundred though, you know, so anyway. But uh we've never done full-on hardcore tropical fruit. So South of Miami, right at the very tip of uh Florida in South Dade.
+
+[3:32] There are two places we visited that uh are simply amazing and worth a visit. Um one of them is the Fairchild. Now Fairchild uh has been a garden for a long time that has many, many different varieties. They store many different varieties of tropical fruit, citrus and otherwise. Um we visited not their show garden but their kind of actual tree garden.
+
+[3:49] Unfortunately, most of the stuff we wanted to taste there, like mangoes and jackfruits aren't in season right now. So we're gonna have to go back and we are gonna go back. Uh Chris Young, uh Nastasha, Harold McGee, and I are going back to there in July to the Mango Festival, and we're gonna we're gonna eat mangoes until we die or they kick us out of the park, one of the two. And jackfruit, because they also have, I think like 75 varieties of jackfruit, which we're going to, you know, eat until we're all jacked up as they say. But the second place that you need to visit, less well known in South Dade, is the fruit and spice park, the Miami Dade County Fruit and Spice Park.
+
+[4:21] And we had a an amazing tour of that place. And they have you just pay, I don't know what the entrance fee is, not that much. You pay, you go in and you could take a tour if you want, and you just eat a preposterous amount of the most the craziest uh tropical fruit. So of the stuff that we had in season, I think there's one called uh Jipoticaba. Sounds like chupacabra, but it's not, it's Jipoticaba.
+
+[4:42] And it's they look like little grapes, but they taste musky and they grow on the actual bark of the tree. So the tree like the little tree shrub tree is growing there, and it and the little grapey things are growing right on the bark, and it tastes kind of like a grape with uh a little bit of a muskiness. Another really amazing one is uh canistel. Canistel they call like almost like a it's similar to uh the Lucama, which is the fruit that's uh famous in Peru that I've had shipped up kind of uh preserved, which I didn't like at all. Um because isn't that that stuff that we were given that we didn't like at all?
+
+[5:13] I don't think so. I think the preserved stuff from was it Peru or chili that we were given? Yeah, no, I think. Anyway, I think that was Lucama, no? No.
+
+[5:19] I just threw it out. All right. Uh but Canistelle uh has it almost a taste of a sweet potatoes and uh kind of an egg, custardy fruit, amazing stuff, and it makes it fantastic ice cream. If you're in uh Whole Foods in South Dade, by the way, you should go to uh get Gabby, Gabby's ice cream. She makes some amazing ice cream with both canistel and the next thing I'm about to tell you about, which is black sapote.
+
+[5:41] Black sapote they call like the chocolate pudding fruit. And you cut it in half and it's dark and it looks kind of like chocolate pudding, but it's super creamy and makes us like an it makes I think an amazing ice cream. You like the ice cream, right, Nastasha? It was good. Yeah, it was very good ice cream.
+
+[5:53] So, anyway, uh please, if you're ever in South Dade, uh go visit the fruit and spice park. And if you're from Miami and you've never been to the fruit and spice park, you should just jump out of your window right now. If you're spending all of your time like, you know, being all pumped and tan on South Beach like a moron, you should get out of there and go to the fruit and spice park because it's a lot more rewarding. I have to say the whole South Beach thing, not my style about you, Nastasha. Did you enjoy the actual South Beach?
+
+[6:16] No, I don't like South Beach very much. No. All right. Now, on to the questions. So from a couple of weeks.
+
+[6:22] Oh, by the way, the reason I missed uh last week's show, I was in Seattle, uh, actually Bellevue, Washington, at the lab of Nathan Mirvold, the Microsoft uh billionaire uh food nut who, along with Chris Young and you know, uh you know 13 other people, uh, have for the past four or five years been tolling uh toiling away at the modernist cuisine cookbook, which I believe is just released now, actually shipping now from Amazon.com. So you and about 450 of your closest friends, that means 450 dollars, can go on Amazon and purchase uh you know the modernist cuisine, which is I think six volumes or something like that. Uh it you know, I I know some of the stats from visiting them. It weighs like 40 pounds, 10, you know, four pounds of it of is ink. It's got like, you know, the greatest ink ever made.
+
+[7:11] There's only like two factories on earth, uh, two printing houses on earth that can do the printing that they that they can do. Anyway, amazing cookbook. So I flew out there to Seattle to have a dinner at uh Nathan's lab. Uh and uh it was it was it was really it was awesome, awesome experience. We uh I'll I'll probably we'll probably blog about it if I ever have time.
+
+[7:31] Remember uh for those of you that are are angry at me for not writing more blog posts, starting tomorrow I'm contractually obliged to have a post a week. So you know you have that to look forward to anyway. But so Dave we got an email question. You have an email question? All right well after the bre I'll read it during the break and then we'll well I'll see whether I know the answer to it.
+
+[7:48] So the um so anyway so I'm sitting there at the place and the taxi that's supposed to come take me to the airport uh I missed missed didn't come so came like 20 minutes late had problem insecurity missed my airplane back to New York by one minute and slept in the Seattle airport because I was too pissed off and tired to actually go back to anyone's uh anyone's house or anything like that. Uh I I later found out that all all of our friends you know uh had stayed on at the dinner and partied till 4 a.m while I was busy being pissed off in the airport but there you have it. Anyway, so um on to the questions. A couple weeks ago someone uh called in I believe and said what's going on in preserved lemons what is it that causes them uh to you know be preserved and you know what is it it's probably is it a bacteria is it whatever uh and I didn't know the answer I was you know wholehearted you know whole full on stumped and the answer uh I forget the name of the person who called in but the answer is yeasts so uh I looked online for it and it is uh a couple strains of yeast that are involved in the preserved lemons that can survive the saltiness of that environment and give the uh preserved lemons their characteristic flavor. I then conferred with uh Harold McGee when I saw him out at the um when I saw him out at the at the Nathan Miraville dinner, and he agreed that yes, he had heard uh it was a yeast and it makes sense to him, so that's the answer.
+
+[9:05] It is a yeast. Okay. Now, uh on to the first of this week's questions. Josh from Somerset England writes in, he says, I was very interested in the article on rapid infusion on the cooking issues site. What I'd like to know is can the what what are we supposed to say?
+
+[9:22] ISI or EC? E C D. EC. Well, uh uh well, what I'd like to know is can the EC soda siphon be used to do the technique instead of the whipper? Quite simply, I've wanted both for a long time, but can only really justify getting one or the other because of money and space, etc.
+
+[9:36] What are the advantages and disadvantages? Is it best to use a one liter or a half liter for home use? And he he uh pumps us up and says, the technique is genius. I wish I could tend the fundraiser to discover more things like this. Keep up the good work.
+
+[9:47] Well, thank you very much for the kind words. And uh if you can only buy one, in fact, if you can only buy two, just get the just get the whippers. I wouldn't bother getting the uh the soda siphons. The soda siphons are really specialized, and most of the time when we're doing first of all, soda siphons have a very thin neck, uh, so it's hard to get a lot of stuff uh into them. Uh second of all, soda siphons they draw from the bottom.
+
+[10:11] So really they're only good if you're like a big three stooges fan and you like to spray people in the face with seltzer, or if you're gonna keep the seltzer in the bottle for a long time and keep it in the fridge. Most of the techniques we do, I'm pouring all of the stuff out right away, and I find that you can actually lose quite a bit of the carbonation as you spray out uh through the spray head on a on one of those siphons. So for a number of reasons, even if I was going to carbonate with one of those things, I would never carbonate with the soda siphon. I actually carbonate with the um with the with the whip with the whipper. The only difference is um that you know you have to shake it more to get the CO2 in.
+
+[10:47] If you really wanted to, it wanted to make it act more like uh a soda siphon, as you put the cartridge in, you could hold it upside down, and then the CO2 would rocket through the drink as it goes up, which is basically all the only thing that the soda siphon's accomplishing for you. Soda siphon is also harder to clean. So I would I would only buy whippers. I would even carbonate, like I say, if you were going to carbonate in one of those, which I don't really recommend, but if you're gonna do that, I would carbonate in the whippers. So I would I would buy only whippers.
+
+[11:12] I think they're uh just a superior, superior product all around, the the cream whippers. Um, uh as to the one liter or the half liter uh for home use, it look if you're gonna do a lot of drinks, then I would get the and you're gonna carbonate them, I would get the liter. If you're gonna be doing a lot of rapid infusion, you're just gonna go through a couple more chargers, either that or you're gonna have to infuse into more product if you have if you have the liter one. So, you know, I we write all of our recipes for the half-liter ones because we're doing lots of tests and they don't scale exactly. So you can use either one, but just be aware that if you use a liter whipper with a smaller amount of product in it, you're gonna have to probably throw an extra charger into it.
+
+[11:54] So you're gonna have the expense of using extra chargers if you're using the liter as opposed to the half liter. But both will work. Uh what do you think? What do you think about that? Is that uh that's a good answer, dude.
+
+[12:03] All right. Josh also says, uh P. S. I love James Brown as much as the next guy, but surely you've got another C D you can play. Well, uh it's interesting you should uh say that, Josh, because someone else uh emailed uh just the same week and said that they uh enjoyed the James Brown because it's exactly uh um in sync with their treadmill as they're listening to the podcast.
+
+[12:26] So now I've got uh uh a for and an against on the James Brown. I could come up with a different James Brown song, perhaps. Uh or I could I could possibly move to something a little less funky, like a Merle Haggard or something like this. I'm not sure. What are your thoughts, Nastasha?
+
+[12:39] Should we stick with the James Brown? I didn't know we were allowed to change our our middle theme. Maybe we're not allowed to change our theme music, but we can change our middle music. I don't know. What do you think?
+
+[12:48] What are your thoughts? Any any thoughts? No thoughts. No thoughts. Nastash is too tired coming in off of the uh question.
+
+[12:55] Well, not answer my questions. What do you mean? I had a question. You're just sitting there staring into space. I don't know if you're about to have an answer or if you're in a a catatonic state over here.
+
+[13:04] She Nastasha literally had to get up at oh dark thirty this morning, and she's pounding coffee as we speak, trying to text all the people that were texting her when she's on the plane and like in in Super Spaceland. So I have to answer her questions for her because she looks to be frank, stunned. Anyway, uh okay. Uh Cho, and I don't know, I assume that's a last name, Cho, uh writes in this first name? Cho?
+
+[13:26] Okay, Cho writes in and uh in all caps, by the way, so Cho seriously wants an answer. What temperature should I poach an egg at? Okay. Cho. This is a uh I'm assuming you have an immersion circulator, which I'm sure most of our read you know listeners know.
+
+[13:40] An immersion circulator is something that keeps the temperature of water exactly accurate. Uh you can buy one at William Sonoma, uh, we love them, etc. etc. Um so what temperature you should cook the egg to really depends on what you're looking to do. The f the lowest temperature we ever cook an egg to is 62 degrees Celsius, which is 143 and a half in Fahrenheit land.
+
+[14:02] And that is a runny poached egg. Okay. Um so that's like, you know, you're gonna put on eggs benedict, whatever. You cook it in the shell uh for an hour. You can actually get away with 45 minutes, but you know, you cook it an hour, and then after that hour, you drop the temperature down to uh like 60 or 59 degrees, and then it can sit there for hours and hours and hours.
+
+[14:22] And then when the time comes, you just crack the egg out, and uh the thin white separates from the thick white, and you have a perfectly poached egg. If you're gonna serve it as is and you want it to look a little more the white to look a little brighter white and well done, you can put it through simmering water at on its way out to service. Now, uh that is gonna be 95% of all the eggs you do. If you want a little bit creamier in the inside, you don't want it runny, then you cook it to uh 63 degrees Celsius, which is 145.5 for an hour on the dot, and then you lower the uh these are for large eggs, large chicken eggs, then you lower the temperature down to 60 again, and that is a creamy egg yolk. It still will run, but it's very, very creamy, good for a consomme.
+
+[15:02] If you want it just set but still very soft and creamy, 64 Celsius, 147 uh Fahrenheit is what you should go. If you want uh also for an hour, if you want something that is kind of like a hard-boiled egg, but uh not, then I would uh put it in simmering water for uh like four minutes, uh five minutes, something like this, then put it into 70 degrees Celsius water, 158 Fahrenheit, for about an hour, and the yolk will be perfectly yellow and creamy, it won't smell like an overcooked egg, and you'll have a perfect uh hard boiled egg. Um if you want a uh interesting thing, Ervaties, who uh writes a lot of books on uh the science of cooking, all of them I think bad and wrong. He uh, he uh and by the way, Ts is spelled this. If you're looking for it, don't write T-E-E-S in the Google, write Erve this, because that's how he spells his name.
+
+[15:55] Erveteis has written and said that the 65 degrees Celsius, 149 degrees uh Fahrenheit is the perfect kind of poached egg because, and this just goes to show you how little he thinks about things, uh, he puts his eggs in the or I was told this by someone who saw him run the experiment. He puts his eggs in what he calls a very highly calibrated oven. Now, anyone who's ever cooked an egg in a circulator knows that 65 degrees Celsius is not a uh is not a runny egg. Um and it's because there's evaporative cooling out of the eggshell. Uh in fact, you can use this.
+
+[16:28] You can do MIARD uh reaction Hamine eggs in the oven by cooking them in the shell in the oven, and as they evaporate, the alkalinity of the egg goes up and they go uh they undergo browning reactions in the oven, even without a pressure cooker. So uh the evaporative cooling alone is enough to drop the temperature of the egg as it's cooking uh by about uh two or three degrees to get a runny egg yolk, and so Erva Tis chew on that one. In fact, he did a demo at the French Culinary Institute five years ago, um, and he he had us set up a bunch of circulators to cook us eggs, and he said all of these eggs are two degrees off. And the reason is is because he did all of his initial tests in an oven. Just because to show you what he knows.
+
+[17:07] Anyway, uh let's go to our first commercial break. Call in all your questions to uh 718. What is it? 4972128. That's 718-497-2128.
+
+[17:18] Cooking issues. So much bone brother. Call your name. I don't want to know if people know you're in, yeah. I feel fellow!
+
+[17:28] Head down! Sure getting down. Look at him. We're gonna have a bunk good time. We're gonna have a bunk good time.
+
+[17:43] We're gonna have a bump good time. We're gonna have a bump good time. Don't take them up, Brand. We gotta take you high. Yeah, let's go on.
+
+[18:04] We gotta take the high brother. Now I won't have a body. Let's bread blow up by two cores. And then I wanna wave me and let's go into it. Now alright.
+
+[18:24] I'm gonna get that belly with a little horn over there. The following is a public service announcement from Heritage Radio Network. Tune in to the Speakeasy every Wednesday at 3 p.m. where host Damon Bolti will discuss cocktails, spirits, wine, beer, tea, coffee, and all things in the liquid universe. With guests ranging from bartenders and brewers, alchemists and ambassadors, roasters and regulars, and every expert and enthusiast in between.
+
+[18:50] Learn from some of the world's leading experts in mixology, bar history, distillation, and brewing about how we enjoy imbibing today. Again, that's every Wednesday at 3 p.m. on the Heritage Radio Network. Hello and welcome back to Cooking Issues. Call in your questions to 718-497-2128.
+
+[19:12] That's 718-497-2128. So uh the email question uh came in and said that when I when I was in Seattle, did I get a chance to visit Armandino Batale's um Salumi place and where do I rank him in kind of American ham producers? Now, this is an interesting question. So Armandino Batali is, in fact, uh Mario Batali's dad. He was a it's a real interesting case because uh he he used to be a chemical engineer, I believe at Boeing, but I'm I I can't remember.
+
+[19:40] I interviewed him a number of years ago for uh an article I was doing on uh House Cured Meats at uh for Food Arts magazine. And he as a scientist has very like uh you know, very keyed into safety and proper techniques and it and uh and a really interesting guy, but I've only ever had his products at um at some Batali restaurants. I didn't get a chance to go there when I went out. I wish I had had the time. I was basically I would have been in and out had I made my airplane.
+
+[20:07] Instead I was in and uh stayed, you know, stayed over, unfortunately, in the airport. So I didn't get a chance to try uh basically any of the really interesting places out there with the exception of Nathan Mirvol's, which was quite interesting. Um I don't really I I wish I had more to more to say on it. The one thing I will say is as far as I can tell, uh, and I've never had his famous uh lamp prosciutto either, uh, but as far as I can tell, uh he's not doing an American style of product. He's doing more of an Italian style of product, and so I wouldn't I wouldn't try to rank him alongside of uh of American producers uh, you know, like uh Sam Edwards or Alan Benton or uh Nancy Mahaffey, which Nancy Mahaffey is from uh Colonel Newsom's or you know, pe people of that of that nature or like uh Finchville Farms.
+
+[20:54] I mean, they the the these are what I consider a American products. They're making American country hams, which I consider to be fundamentally different from European style products. The you know, the the temperature that they're that they're done at is is different. American hams are typically aged at a much higher temperature uh after they go through their equalization process. So I just I I wouldn't rank them I wouldn't rank them together.
+
+[21:14] But uh the products of his that I've had I thought were very, very good. Um so next time I go out to Seattle, I will be sure to have uh I'll be sure to go to the site and have uh a whole boatload of uh Armandito Batales uh products. Okay, so uh I had a question come in that says, I'm interested in cooking steak sous vide, but I have a question on searing methods. Uh it is obviously possible to use a super hot skillet, grill, or broiler. Uh you forgot deep fryer, which is my favorite way to do it, um, to uh sear, but what about a blowtorch?
+
+[21:49] At focus points it can reach a much higher temperature than any of the other techniques, meaning more pink inside and crispier, more caramelized outside. When you say caramelized, I'm assuming you mean my yard because it's not actually caramel, but you know, we all say caramelized. I'm just saying in case anyone's a stickler. In case Jeffrey Steingarden ever listens to this, he'll call up and scream if I don't say that. So you know it's just the only reason I'm saying it.
+
+[22:07] Also, this might be a way to achieve an even uh Myard reaction on meats that are not of uniform thickness or dimensions. A third advantage is that sear if searing is taking place before the water bath, then a more shallow searing depth would cause the meat to contract less, opening the way for uh non-traditional cuts of meat. Uh, and this comes in from Justin. Okay. Uh now he also says that could you use uh some welding equipment, and if so, what kind of welding equipment would you use?
+
+[22:31] Now here are my thoughts on torches. Uh first of all, when we're searing, of course, we sear before and after, and the reason we sear both before and after is we sear before to kill some of the bacteria on the outside. We're talking about low temperature cooking, by the way. So you cook something to the to the temperature you want it. So if I'm cooking a steak to 130 degrees Fahrenheit, I have a water bath at 130 degrees Fahrenheit, and the steak is perfectly cooked all the way through.
+
+[22:53] I mean it's great technique. Um typically I would sear it beforehand to start crust development, start flavor development, kill bacteria on the outside. By the time it comes out of the water bath, the crust is gone, and so you sear it again to put a nice crust on it. The trick is when you're searing it, as uh Justin says, you need a very high temperature because you don't want to overcook the meat. So the way I usually do that is by dropping the temperature of the bath a bunch.
+
+[23:16] So if I'm cooking at 55, I'll drop the bath to 50 degrees Celsius for like 30 minutes before I sear it, so that I drop the whole temperature down and I can sear it really hard without overcooking the meat. And that's in general how I accomplish it. Here are my thoughts on torches in general. First of all, I wouldn't go and use if you mean by welding equipment, straight up acetylene. I wouldn't use acetylene because if your mix is not exactly first of all, acetylene is ridiculously hot, absurdly hot.
+
+[23:44] There's a famous guy when uh when um they were building the spirit of St. Louis, uh, you know, Lindbergh's airplane, uh, the guy at Ryanair, Ryan was the company that built the spirit of St. Louis, he used to cook fish on with uh acetylene torches on pieces of aluminum, but by all accounts they tasted god awful like fuel. I have never cooked with acetylene, although I have a torch somewhere. Uh yeah, I haven't fired up the acetine in a long time.
+
+[24:07] But my feeling is that acetylene probably wouldn't be uh a good call. Um, the commercially most people use uh propane and uh butane torches. Now, the problem with propane and butane torches is that if in unless you have a special source of the gas, they add uh odorants, things that smell to them, so that you can smell if there's a leak, right? And typically they're adding uh either methylmercaptain or ethylmorcaptain or some group of mercaptins, also known as like methana methanothiol. These are they're sulfur-containing compounds.
+
+[24:37] You can smell in very minute quantities. If they're not completely combusted, right, they tend to uh stink up your product and you have what we call torch taste. All right. Now, the more fat there is on a on a product, right, the more you can smell the torch taste. So things that aren't very fatty tend not to pick up a lot of torch taste, but things that are high in fat tend to pick up a lot of this torch taste.
+
+[25:01] Now there are two ways you can get rid of torch taste. You can either use a gas that doesn't have any of these odorants in them, but they're kind of hard to find. That's why a lot of pipe um pipe uh lighters and cigar lighting butane that are very clean butanes, those butane torches tend to smell less uh because they I think have little less of that product in them. The other thing you can do is make sure that your torch has complete combustion. So some torches are much better than others at completely combusting.
+
+[25:25] Most of the torches that we use in our in our houses, like the the propane torches, aren't very good at it, and so you get a lot of a lot of torch taste. You can take and fire that torch through a grid, heat up the grid, and then that will um basically um enhance the combustion of these things and cause you not to have a torch taste. But it tends we use the chinois, but it tends to ruin your chinois. So I had some nichrome wire, and that also works, but then you gotta go buy some nicrome wire. Chris Young of the Modernist Cuisine uh cookbook, I was asking him about it.
+
+[25:56] He uses map gas, MAPP gas. I don't know if they add an odorant to it or not, but map gas can be purchased at Home Depot. It's a lot hotter. Now, if you want to go really balls out on this, right, I have used a roofing torch with a propane tank as a searing uh device uh as a test. Uh the the problem with a roofing torch is a roofing torch will light your whole uh kitchen on fire if you're not if you're not careful.
+
+[26:21] But uh I was able to get a complete enough combustion with a roofing torch, so I said I had no torch taste at all. I scorched the entire work surface that the thing was on, and it was hard to get an even uh crust on it, but I did get it to work. So, first of all, that's the first problem. You have torch taste. The second problem is that I think certain Myard reactions, um, you you don't want it too too hot.
+
+[26:42] I haven't been able to run experiments yet to figure out what the maximum heat that you want is. But I don't think that the Myard products you get from a hyper-intense heat like a torch are the same as the ones you get from a more normal kind of uh heat. So I don't think that it's the same. And also, you don't really want a just a thin layer of black on the outside of a product. For a real crunchy, uh like really crunchy, crispy crust, you need a certain depth of crutch crust formation.
+
+[27:08] And if you did that with a torch, you'd have to either be very, very gentle or you'd you'd um basically incinerate the top while you were getting that that thickness of crust that you wanted. I also tend to find that torching is really uneven in terms of its distribution, so even though theoretically you can get all the pieces evenly, it's hard to get an even torch job. So if you look at a torch sear, often you'll see spots that are darker than others, which isn't as pleasant as as you could be. Now, maybe you could get around that by using something giant, but then it's easy to go overboard uh really quickly. So I tend to only use the torch as a touch-up in areas like if you have a bird like around the thigh area uh or around like where the wings are, sometimes you can lose a little there, and I'll do a little touch-up, but I tend not to use them as my primary uh searing um searing thing, right?
+
+[27:55] Um so anyway, that's my that's my feelings on it. Uh now maybe we should uh go to our second commercial break and I'll boot up the rest of the questions. So let's go to our second commercial break and we'll be back in a minute. Give up the lamb of all the bread. You know what?
+
+[28:24] When I hear a groove like this, ooh. Oh say I got baby. Yeah. Yeah. Black way of young man.
+
+[28:45] Look at you. So we got a groove like this. You know? No. I need to grit.
+
+[29:08] Need to grit. You know. I believe hey, hey, Brad Dumbled. Brother. I'm getting ready to wave y'all in.
+
+[29:20] You know what? I feel so down. I need to get down. In order for me to get down, I got to get in D. In order for me to get down, I gotta get in D.
+
+[29:33] Need to get in D. Dog the D. Down D. Here we go. Down D.
+
+[29:41] Get it D. Ready? Boom! Come on, do it. Oh, I love that.
+
+[29:48] I love it. Alright. Since this is the second time I've allowed to have my down D in the middle, uh, we'll maybe we'll change it. So now that you guys know how awesome the down D is, you know, you can just go listen to it on your own and we'll get it we'll get a different song for the uh for the thing. I think I can think about making a video.
+
+[30:04] The down D is good for this. I'm not gonna do hollow notes, Nastasha. What do you want to do? You want to do uh Meneater? What?
+
+[30:12] What which one do you want to do? Genesis. Oh, we will not do Genesis. This is one thing I know we will not do. Alright.
+
+[30:19] No offense. No offense to Genesis fans. I mean, uh, you know, Nastash is more of a Phil Collins invisible touch or Susudio kind of a kind of a girl, I think. That's my feeling on Nastasha. So call in your questions to 718-497-2128.
+
+[30:33] That's 718-497-2128. Well, you know, if we're gonna do Genesis, you want to do like that's all. Remember that song, That's All? Sing it, no. I'm not gonna sing.
+
+[30:41] There's no way on earth I'm gonna sing it. No way. Anyway. Okay. Uh I have a question coming in from Hawaii, I think.
+
+[30:48] Uh Aaron Melvin calls in. I assume it's from Hawaii because Aaron grows Lilicoy. And uh what that is, is a Hawaiian passion fruit. And actually, we had some delicious passion fruit down at uh in Miami at uh Gabby's farm, right? Of course, I didn't really get to taste it because Nastasha pounded the whole thing.
+
+[31:05] Whatever. Okay, we have a rather extreme overabundance uh of Lilicoy in our garden and oh yeah, in Molokai's in uh Hawaii, which I wish I could go. Uh someday we will get to go. A nice problem to have. Uh I've recently made uh Lilikoi souffle and little coi creme brulee.
+
+[31:19] Both were delicious and intensely flavored, but the texture is not perfect as the dairy was just beginning to curdle. Since the dairy is already high fat, I'm not sure where to turn to try and prevent curdling without reducing the intensity of the lilicoy. I could try mixing some cornstarch into the dairy before combination with the liloquoy juice, but would you recommend another hydrocolloid technique? Um certainly in my somewhat off-the-cup cuffed attempts, uh, these could have used a bit more structure or solidity. Now, uh, you could use something like you could uh pre uh gel pre-gel the uh dairy or add it to add a little bit of carrageenin uh to it.
+
+[31:51] Carrageenan and locust bean gum. If you add carragaean and locust bean gum, these are the same stabilizers that are used in ice creams. Um I would use uh probably if you don't want it too firm, I would use uh iota uh carrageen, and that's gonna be more pudding-y, and if you want it a little firmer, you can use kappa, which is rigid. But I wouldn't use kappa actually in a high acid situation. First of all, you don't want it rigid, and second of all, uh in a high acid situation, it there's a possibility that there might be some carcinogenic uh action with carrageenin at very low pH.
+
+[32:22] Um, but it hasn't been proved yet. But I tend to stay away from kappa carrageenin at low pH. But you could use uh, I think some uh iota carrageenin and LBG, and and that should take you somewhat closer to stopping it from curdling. But if that's not working for you, cornstarch should also uh prevent it from breaking. But cornstarch will definitely stop.
+
+[32:40] I know cornstarch will definitely stop egg yolks from uh from curdling when they're overheated because uh why that's how Wiley uh makes his um that's how Wiley makes his um his mayonnaise his Hollandaise sauce. He adds uh enough starch to the egg yolk so that he can heat it up without uh curdling the egg yolks. So uh any of those techniques would work. So hopefully, you know, you could you could try one of those things, and hopefully someday we can go to Hawaii and try some of these things. Anyway, uh he also tried uh to make methylcel F50 meringues uh with his uh lilicoy, and we actually use regular passion fruit puree a lot.
+
+[33:12] F50 is a product that uh is a whipping agent. You can make mousses with it like uh almost like shaving cream, very dense mouses, um and they act like egg whites and they can be whipped. And so what you do is you make a meringue out of something like a puree, a passion fruit puree, let's say, or lilocoi puree, and then you uh you just put it on a dehydrator and you and you dehydrate them and they turn into into crunchy meringues. Uh in his oven, because it's so humid there, they got uh kind of dense uh and not super uh crunchy, but then he he hit it with uh he brûle lay the top of it to add it more crunch, and he says it makes uh an excellent pavlova base, and I'm glad that worked out for you. I think that's a genuinely delicious technique.
+
+[33:52] Uh he also says he was glad to hear our thoughts on chocolate tempering from two weeks ago. Have we ever experimented with sous vide tempering? So basically the idea is um by the way, yes, it works. There are people that do it. I haven't done it.
+
+[34:05] So what you can do is instead of if you have chocolates in to old school traditional tempering techniques, assume, like you know, where you where you um you know, where you have to go through a bunch of different steps, are for taking chocolate that's not in temper and bringing it into temper. If you have chocolate that is already in temper and you just want to melt it and keep it in temper, uh then you can just throw it in a in a sous vide bag, vac it down, throw it in water, uh, and set it exactly the melting point you want, and it's gonna work uh fine. You can also actually do the the temperature ramps uh in a bag by moving them around if you if you wanted to. The one issue with it, and people do this and they can keep it in temper a long time because the temperature is very accurate within a couple tenths of a degree. Uh the problem is you gotta make sure that when you take it out, that you take it out and you don't get any water and the chocolate off the bag because there's a lot of it's easy to mess things up that way.
+
+[34:55] So I would put it into something that's easy to get something out of. Like I would seal your chocolate into a pastry bag instead of into a regular bag when you're when you're working. But yes, it would be uh uh basically an attention free way of doing it. Okay. Uh Pepperoni Bill, which is an awesome name.
+
+[35:10] I haven't gotten a chance to check out Pepperoni Bill's website yet, but Pepperoni Bill is it's gotta be one of the better names, like the one of the better handles that people use on the internet. Do they still say handle or is that only from the C B era? I think that's from the CB era, because I don't know what it is. Hey, you know what? Speaking of CB era, what if we move to Convoy is our as our song?
+
+[35:27] No. No? Mm-hmm. No? I love Convoy.
+
+[35:30] Anyway, uh Pepperoni Bill, uh basically just a comment. He says, um, love the show. James Brown music is perfect sync with his uh uh with his treadmill walk. So he's the he's the James Brown lover. He'll be at the Pizza Expo in Las Vegas March 1st through 3rd.
+
+[35:43] Just wonder if you guys had any plans of attending. If not, we'll have to meet some other way. Maybe you can come to my pizza joint someday when I finally open one. Well, seeing as now it is March 1st right now, and we were not in the Pizza Expo in Las Vegas, no, but we hope that you were having an excellent time at the Pizza Expo. I wish I could be at the Pizza Expo because I love myself some pizza, but uh I've also never been to Vegas, you?
+
+[36:04] Yeah, it's bad. You wouldn't like it. I wouldn't like it. No, yeah. Yeah, I'm I don't know.
+
+[36:10] Yeah, I'm I'm weird that way. Anyway, so uh Pepperoni Bill, let us know how it is. Okay, Alan from DC writes in, been a fan of the podcast for a while, uh, as a fan of food science, and he's decided it's time to start playing with some of the fun techniques that we talk about. Uh he has the ability to build a basic immersion circulator, but wanted to know uh my thoughts on what is needed. His understanding is that uh he needs a heat source, a simple fan, and a control feedback loop.
+
+[36:34] Um he says control loops are fun, I can handle that. What I want to know is how exact the temperature needs to be and what kind of fluctuations might be allowed. Are there interesting recipes that require changing the temperature part way through the preparation, and how precisely rapidly do these changes need to be? Any other thoughts on what my circulator needs to do? Uh Alan from DC.
+
+[36:52] Now, uh okay. So it's not a fan you need. If you want to build an immersion circulator, I mean if you want to build your own t temperature loop, that's great. But everyone uses basically what's called PID control, PID control, which is proportional uh integrative and derivative control, right? And so the this control uh loop technology, basically this control algorithm is allows you to go directly up to the temperature and not overshoot it, not porpoise around like a bang bang does, right?
+
+[37:20] And uh very, very few people write their own control loops. If you're good with a microprocessor, you can look up um someone for the Arduino wrote code to do uh um a PID loop um for his coffee maker and you can look up on the web under Sylvia P I D Arduino and there's code out there that you can write to help you write code to do it. But that's the only really method that people use accurately because it needs to not fluctuate around. So you don't want to use an onoff temperature control. You want to use PID, PID.
+
+[37:53] The other thing is it's not a fan that they use uh most people when they're building their own you can buy a small uh pump um you can buy a small pump that you know like one that's actually used in a circulator, but the vast majority of people use aquarium pumps. And you can either bubble air in which moves just moves around by bubbling air or you can actually pump water. And if you look online there the the the pump that people use to do recirculated mash RIMS for brewing there's a lot of there's a couple cheap pumps in the like fifteen dollar range that can handle it and can handle the temperatures and can pump a good amount of liquid because you need it to move around a lot. The other thing is you're gonna need um ever all the commercial circulators are a thousand watts. They're a thousand watts.
+
+[38:36] So you're gonna want about a thousand watts of heating. More heating is not going to hurt you. The problem is if you go over a thousand watts, you're gonna have to make sure that you have a plug that can handle it, right? So all the circulators that are built are basically built to go into a standard 15 amp plug. And once you go well, you know, over a thousand, you're gonna have to start worrying about it.
+
+[38:54] But if you have your own plug, you can make it as powerful as you want, and then it's gonna go up and down a lot faster. It's gonna be a lot more uh responsive. And so like these are the kinds of things that you need to uh these are the kind of things you need to do. I would I would say that you want your temperature to be within a couple of tenths of a degree. Um in terms of okay, so there's two things.
+
+[39:15] There's accuracy, accuracy, and there's precision, right? So the question is how accurate do you need to be? You need to be within about uh three tenths, I'd say, uh, of a degree Celsius accurate and precise. Okay, so accuracy is like how close are you to what the temperature you really want, and precision is how often can you repeat it. And as long as your accuracy is within like three tenths, you'll be able to recreate other people's recipes.
+
+[39:37] Now your precision should be dead on, like a tenth of a degree or so, because there's no reason for it not to be. And that's why you know speak to Philip Preston, who is the you know the guy who builds the circulators that we use from poly science. Um, he says, yeah, like even the old uh analog ones are extremely precise. Like once you set the knob on the analog one, it's gonna hit the same temperature all the time and stay there with very, very, very high degree of precision. It's just not accurate.
+
+[40:18] So you have to use a second thermometer to uh to to judge exactly where you are because it doesn't have uh a readout on um it doesn't have a readout on exactly how uh you know how hot it is. So those are my thoughts on building your own uh thing now I've built many um many of these in my time um what what I used to do was I would get like an you know they were all bad let's put it this way I've built like three or four of them and I now use the poly science one just because the homebrew ones are always how to put this a little bit of a pain in the butt right now the Philip uh well let me see so there there's when I was doing it I whenever I do anything it's totally ghetto spit bubblegum ridiculous like so what used to happen with me is I would get shocked like I used I didn't build one once where I used a bunch of those coffee heaters that cost like two bucks that you get at the dollar store even though it's at the dollar store they cost two bucks anyway you throw them into the thing you throw a bunch of them in and then when you go in to get your uh your eggs out of the circulator you know what happens yeah you get shocked like really badly shocked you know what I mean so that one was out the window I built another one where you know I I bought like a heater for like uh twenty bucks off a McMaster car and but it's just like now I have like wires sitting everywhere and like you know uh now that I have kids in my house I didn't want them running around with like these wires out everywhere but this is because I'm a moron and all I care about is functionality. There are people out online if you search like the make community or the instructable community or any one of these DIY sites there are people that know exactly what like plastic box like you know they're like go buy the Rubik's Cube not you know it's got to be this Rubik's cube because it's got the exact size box for the parts that they want and they then they can womp together one for you know under a hundred bucks, I think is the current going rate for everything you need, including, by the way, a pre-made PID controller with digital readout. In case, you know, in case you value your time and don't want to write your own code, you can now get one of these controllers for I think like 35 bucks. And they work, they work like like gangbusters.
+
+[42:18] The only other thing I'd say is uh when you're buying one and you're gonna have to control the heater. And there's two ways you can go. You can go with a regular relay, but the regular relay is gonna sit there going click, click, click, click. I hate that. So I go for what's called a solid state relay, and solid state relay uh is completely dead silent, and you can run it at whatever rate you want, and it never ever wears out, but they are more expensive.
+
+[42:42] So instead of like four bucks, five bucks, you're gonna spend like twenty bucks, something like that. Twenty bucks. Twenty bucks. But anyway, I would say go get the one for twenty bucks, just because that extra twenty dollars for that little bit of silence in your kitchen instead of having to click click. Let me put it this way.
+
+[42:57] My stove, right, can't run off a solid state relay uh relay because I'm actually opening and closing a solenoid valve for my uh for my I'm actually closing a solenoid valve for my my gas and it's irritating because it's like click, click, click. But luckily, most of the time when I'm running my oven, I'm making pizza. Go to go back to Pepperoni Bill's pizza question. I'm making pizza, and so I have it on full bore uh blast out mode so that I can get it up to 850 degrees and you know light light everything on fire, basically. Uh okay, so uh on my way out, I will say that uh you should all I I I wish that everyone had the money to go buy uh Nathan Mirvald and Chris Young's new modernist cuisine book.
+
+[43:38] They've already sold well over half of the initial printing and they've ordered uh another printing on it. Uh it is a pretty cool book. I am extremely jealous. I visited their lab. They have uh a water jet cutter, a crazy water jet cutter.
+
+[43:53] Like they have a scanning electron microscope, and by the way, Nathan has one at his house too, in case he should want to do in case you know he doesn't want to have to go into the office to do a scanning electron microscopy. You know, he can do his scanning electron microscopy at home, you know. You know, you know, he he they have a cr they have a crappy, awesome, like, you know, regular light microscope at the office because he wanted to keep his good one at work. So I don't know. Anyway, I'm extraordinarily jealous of the equipment they have.
+
+[44:17] But we had a really good time uh out at the meal there, and um I'm sure you'll be seeing about it. Uh, you know, that it's on Wired magazine. I think a lot of the things you can see, the kinds of things they were doing in in the meal. Oh, and I had their ultrasonic French fries. So Josh Azerski, uh, who you know he writes things, right?
+
+[44:33] He writes things, Josh Azersky. Yeah, I don't know. Yeah, anyway, so he writes things. So he came back and he says, Yeah, he said, he doesn't talk that. Well, actually, he does kind of talk that way.
+
+[44:41] Yeah. So he goes, you know, you gotta, you know, Nathan Mirvold and you know, Chris Young's ultrasonic french fry is the world's greatest French fry. So I had the ultrasonic french fry, and the ultrasonic french fry was quite good. And I spoke to Nathan, they've done the SPL, he likes them, but he likes the ultrasonic one better. But um I have not yet published.
+
+[44:59] I want you guys to know this. On the blog, I have published my three-eighths inch uh SPL, that's my enzyme that I use recipe. I will place up, I mean, his French fry was very good. But I will place my new half inch, because he was a half-inch French fry guy. I will place my half-inch French fry up against it.
+
+[45:21] Uh, and we should also try maybe his ultrasonic technique along with our SPL technique to see whether we can do the double ridiculous Wam Damula of like uh of monstrosity french fry madness, because that might be the French fry to kill all french fries. But remember, there's no such thing as the perfect French fry because French fry is something that can always be improved. Alright, and that's cooking Issues. We'll see you next week. Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[45:59] You can find all of our archived programs on HeritageRadio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening. The following is a public service announcement from Heritage Foods USA.
+
+[46:28] In late March, Dan Andrea Patrick and the Heritage team are traveling to the coldest reaches of the Northeast Kingdom of Vermont to help the Cantor family tap sugar maple trees. Then the maple sap will flow down to the sugar house where it is boiled gently over a wood fire, just as it has been for generations. Just a few days later, this Great A Amber Syrup will be poured into the beautiful glass jugs and sent to you for pancakes, waffles, desserts, glazing hams, or just drinking by the spoonful. There's only a limited supply, so order today. Each one-liter bottle is $45, including delivery.
+
+[47:04] Delivery will be at the end of March, and we will notify you of the exact shipping date. Each shipment will include a CD explaining the whole process. You can also follow us on YouTube while we work and bottle. In the meantime, you can head over to the Heritage Radio Network Archives and listen to Linda Palaccio talk about maple syrup on her show A Taste of the Past, episode 12. For more information, visit www.heritagefoods USA.com.
+
+[47:29] The following is a public service announcement from Heritage Radio Network. Join Wine and Presarios Aaron Fitzpatrick and Brian DeMarco as they dish out on the latest industry news with winemakers and tastemakers on Heritage Radio Network's revamped wine show, Unfiltered. Erin Fitzpatrick, one of the first hosts on HRN with her program at the root of it, amps up the volume and unfiltered content with co-host Brian DeMarco in this 2011 Redux. True to the original format, Aaron and Brian will keep you abreast of current happenings and break down the news and global events, distilling complex into anecdotal stories that inspire. From media and political events to hailstorms in Argentina, no topic is out of bounds.
+
+[48:09] Tune in every week to hear them chat up the industry's biggest personalities and host on-air tastings with visiting ventors and the country's hottest smoliers. Whether you're an expert or an enthusiast, Unfiltered demystifies wine and lets you know what it really takes to get a bottle from the vineyard to your neighborhood wine shop. Unfiltered broadcasts live every Tuesday at 4 p.m. on Heritage Radio Network. The following is a public service announcement from the Museum of Food and Drink.
+
+[48:35] Dave Arnold and Patrick Martins have gathered a team of New York's most innovative chefs and bartenders to create a nine-course fundraiser lunch at Del Posto, Sunday, March 27th. Their intent to kick start the greatest food museum in the world. The menu for this unprecedented event is derived from educational themes of the museum. Chefs will draw inspiration from sources outside their normal sphere. How will a cutting-edge chef handle the Paleolithic or a dish only using pre-Columbian ingredients?
+
+[49:01] What will a modern Italian chef do with ancient Rome? The chefs include David Chang of Momafuku, Wiley Dufrain of WD-50, Mark Ladner of Del Posto, Nils Norrin of the French Culinary Institute, Cesare Casella of Salumaria Rossi, Carlo Moraci of Robertas, Brooks Headley of Del Posto, and Christina Tozzi of Momofuku Milk Bar. Bartenders include Audrey Sanders of Pegu Club, Thomas Waugh of Death and Company, Simon Ford of Perno Ricard, Damon Bolti of Prime Meats, and Evan Clem of BR Guest Restaurants. Proceeds from the event will directly support the Museum of Food and Drink. Tickets are very limited and $250 per person.
+
+[49:41] To purchase tickets, please visit Mofad.eventbright.com. That's M-O-F-A-D.eventbright.com. Once again, M-O-F-A-D.E-V-E-N-T V-R-I-T-E.com. Sponsored by Perno Ricard, Heritage Foods USA, Pat LaFreda Meats, Barter House Wines, Del Posto Restaurant.
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+[0:00] The following program has been brought to you by Kane Vineyard and Winery. Kane Vineyard and Winery supports heritage radio and the growing movement to change how Americans eat and how we think about our planet. For more information, visit www.cane5.com. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues, the show where you call in with all of your cooking-related questions, technical or not. My name is Dave Arnold.
+
+[0:30] I'm here at host of Cooking Issues. Here with in the studio with uh Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. Call in all of your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. We'll be here for about the next 45 minutes or so.
+
+[0:45] So, uh anything anything new, Nastasha, before we get into our daily business? No. No? Alright, well, I'm gonna start with our weekly announcement about the upcoming fundraiser for the Museum of Food and Drink, the Get the Ball Rolling Fundraiser. There are still tickets available to, I think what's gotta be one of the coolest, coolest events, well, it's the coolest event we've ever run, of course.
+
+[1:04] It's the first event we've ever run. But uh, I mean it really is kind of a special thing. Go to uh www.mofatmofad.org and look it up. But we have Cesare Casella from Silomaria Rossi doing preserved meats. We have Dave Chang, we have Wiley Dufrain, we have Mark Ladner, we have our very own Carlo from Roberta's, Brooks Headley from Del Posto, Nils Norrin, our buddy, Christina Tozi, we have Damon Bolti from Prime Meats, Jamie Gordon from Prono Ricard, Kenta Goto from Pegu Club, along with Audrey Saunders from Pegu Club, Thomas Wall from Death and Company, and Evan Clem from BR Guests, all doing museum-themed cocktails and me.
+
+[1:43] I'm gonna be doing an Amoose Boosh. I'll have you know that in private I always refer to it as an Amuse Douche, but I'm aware that it's an Amooch Boosh, amusing the mouth. Uh I'll be doing an Amused Boosh myself, uh and lucky lucky people might taste a little bit of mana from heaven dissolved into uh cognac, right? Yes. It's gonna be daraus.
+
+[1:59] Anyway, uh there are still some tickets available, but buy them while they last. It's on Sunday, uh March 27th at 1 p.m. at Del Posto Restaurant, and it's the must-attend event of the season. Yes or no? Yes.
+
+[2:14] Yes. Alright. Okay. I'm gonna attend to some of our email questions. Ben wrote in and said that I mentioned I got a cheap PID controller, and a PID controller, for those of you that don't know, is a uh controller.
+
+[2:25] Usually we control temperature, but you can control anything with it. You can control humidity, you can control anything, pressure, anything with PID. Uh PID is a stands for proportional uh integrative and derivative, and it's a it's a uh control algorithm that uh allows you to very accurately get to a particular thing, let's say a temperature, without overshooting, uh without ever going over, and it just sits rock solid there. And it's become basically the norm for uh high-end temperature control these days. Immersion circulators have it, people uh make their coffee machines have it.
+
+[2:56] I mean it's just it's the thing to do. It used to be that you couldn't get one for a controller that is for less than a couple hundred dollars, but recently the price has come way down. The cheapest PID controller, Ben that I have seen uh comes from Aubur Instruments, A-U-B-E-R instruments, and they'll sell you a complete PID controller for about 35 bucks. Now I don't know if it's any good or not, but they'll sort send you one for about 35 bucks. I've used uh love controllers from Dwyer Instruments, they're gonna run like $89.
+
+[3:24] You can get the more uh the higher brand name ones like Fuji or Watlow for a couple hundred bucks, but I mean, from Aubur Instruments for 35 bucks, a couple dollars delivered, it's not such a bad deal. They all uh you can get them all basically so that they plug into uh 110 socket. That's not a that's not a problem. One thing I would look for with them is uh if you can spend a little extra money and get one with a solid state relay as opposed to a regular relay for the output, I think you're gonna be uh a little happier. It's gonna be quieter and it's gonna be longer lasting.
+
+[3:54] You just want to make sure that whatever you're running, uh you can drive the amount of current that you need. So if you're gonna be making, let's say an immersion circulator, it's not gonna need more than about a thousand watts. So you're really not gonna need more than about 10 amps through it. But you want to make sure that the controller can handle about 10 amps, and then you're gonna be okay. So, Ben, I hope that answers your question.
+
+[4:16] Um let's go to another question. Uh we have from Ryan writes in about creme de violette, and I know Nastasha detests creme de violette. I'm actually not such a big fan myself of creme de violette, although I have uh had it. Ryan's interested in creme de violette specifically because of the cocktail, uh gin-based cocktail, the aviation that uses it, uh, famously uses it. And so he says, Um, regarding creme de violette, I love the classic cocktail, the aviation, and to be properly remained uh made, this requires creme de violette.
+
+[4:45] Sadly, my state of Ohio doesn't allow it distributed in the state at the moment. And while I'm sure I could order a bottle online and pay shipping, we're only about a month away from violet season here in Ohio, so why not make it? I've looked for a recipe to make creme de violette and have had no luck. Any pointers would be great, and I also see foresee the issue of the violet infusion eventually browning. So any heads up on how to avoid that would be great.
+
+[5:04] Well, I looked in uh a bunch of recipes online. I looked at Rothman, which is one of the people that actually distribute creme de violette here in the States, and they claim to actually use violet flowers. But when I looked on uh, and I'm sure you can basically, so then I would just take a boatload of violet flowers, macerate them in the highest proof liquor you can get in the state of Ohio. Uh don't use crappy, like uh most of the one fifty ones that they sell on the market are are pretty pretty crappy. If you can find one that's decent, smell it, um, taste it.
+
+[5:37] I mean, uh sorry, not 151, uh Everclear, 95 95 proof. Most of these smell pretty bad. If you can find one that's decent, I recommend uh buying that. We buy um from a lab supplier, we buy our straight booze, and it's pretty pretty high proof. Uh but the first thing you're gonna need is very high-proof uh liquor.
+
+[5:54] Uh I mean 151 really isn't ideal, that's only like 75, 75 and a half uh you know, percent, which isn't really very good. Um you're gonna want at least like 8590. Um but try to find one that's good flavor, and then just basically pack that full of violet flowers, let it macerate probably for several weeks to a month or so, and then uh decant it off, uh mix it with sugar to taste, and then water it down to whatever percentage you want. The recipe that I found in my uh in in my old source, which is a treasis on the manufacture and distillation of alcoholic liquors by Pierre Duplay, uh uh copyright 1871, which I have a hard copy of, but is available on uh Google Books for free to look at, actually doesn't use violet in their creme de violette. They use oris root.
+
+[6:39] Uh and so orus root is something that apparently uh you know it's it's a flavoring in a lot of liqueurs, but apparently has somewhat of a violet nose, violet, you know, aroma and flavor to it, and was used in the old days uh to make certain creme de viol uh violet if they didn't have the violet flowers lying around. And so these guys basically say take 12 liters of orus root infusion, which I guess you would make the same way that you would make the violet infusion by steeping in the highest proof liquor you can get for a long time. Um then 24 liters of 85% straight uh neutral grain spirits, uh 56 kilograms of sugar, and 26 liters of water, and they actually recommend uh coloring it with cochineal, which is red, and blue food coloring, which they don't specify what to use. Uh, it's probably specified elsewhere in the book. Um, but it's it's interesting that they would uh specify coloring like that because I also found in a 1905 um Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station reference where they they tested five or six different crumbs de violettes and found that they were all adulterated basically with dyes, with um dyes, some of which were not so savory.
+
+[7:43] So uh I would recommend one. First thing you want to get a hold of is some high-proof spirits. Make sure they're food grade, make sure they smell good, they don't have a real a lot of off-tast because otherwise you're gonna be starting with a bad base. Then if you have the iris flowers, and sorry, iris, don't use irisetal poison. If you have the uh violet flowers, just pack a whole bunch of them into the highest proof liquor you can get and let it sit, taste it every once in a while, see how uh whether it gets the color you want, then add just like I say, add sugar to taste and water it down.
+
+[8:11] There's a couple uh books available on homemade liqueurs uh that I have at home. I couldn't find them in time to provide a reference, but I'll see if I can find something else and get back to you next week. Um and then if if not, try to order some oris root and see whether you can get uh an interesting flavor that way. So uh Ryan, I hope that helps and let us know how it works out. Um Mick writes in with an interesting Kahlua pig question.
+
+[8:35] My friend Mel is having a housewarming for her new house. She doesn't have a proper garden yet, which is a shame. If I had a house, I would really want a proper garden. That would be one of the first things. Pizza oven, outside pizza oven, a tandoor buried in the ground, which is similar to the question I'm about to answer, and then a garden.
+
+[8:50] Those will be my first my first orders of business. Um and maybe someday I will have one, who knows? Um and she's letting me dig a pit in her backyard to cook a whole pig, like an Hawaiian uh emu, I think it's pronounced emu. It's a Hawaiian basically hole in the ground oven that's used to cook Kaluapig, Kalua pig being the buried pig that you would have. Delicious, I should say, buried pig that you have at Aluau.
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+[9:10] Not that I've been to Hawaii. Anyone wants to fly us to Hawaii to taste tropical fruits? We are your people. Am I right, Nastasha? Mm-hmm.
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+[9:16] Mm-hmm. Right? Mm-hmm. Yeah. Never been to Hawaii.
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+[9:19] My wife was born in Hawaii, has a Hawaiian middle name. Anyway, uh, anyone in Hawaii wants us, we'll be there. Uh, I've heard that you must use igneous rocks because other types might explode at high temperature. That sounds awesome, and it is, Nick. I've tried it.
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+[9:32] Uh that sounds awesome, but probably not a good idea at a crowded party. Also true. I'm planning on using a probe to monitor the internal temperature of the pig while cooking, so food safety shouldn't be an issue. Okay, first of all, um here are my tips. One, it is true that many different types of rocks explode.
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+[9:47] Uh I used to do a bunch of experiments on basically heating rocks to throw them into liquids to heat them up. So uh back in my red hot poker experimentation days, uh, which are basically over now because we have it pretty much settled how to do a red-hot poker, right? Yeah. Yeah, pretty much settled. Uh, but you know, uh, other than just using a red-hot poker, one of the things we were using was hot stones.
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+[10:07] And so we ended up settling on using these Korean basically stones that are that are used as part of the Korean stoneware cookery, the giant gobdles that you make that you know that you make uh bibembop out of, the toll soat, I should say, that you make gobdul bibembop out of. Um and uh these stone bowls are, by the way, are some of the greatest things in the world. Everyone should go to the local Korean supermarket and purchase at least six of these hot stone bowls. Anyway, those things don't explode. Uh, but I've had very bad luck with regular stones, even ones that I thought were igneous.
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+[10:38] Igneous rocks are basically volcanic rocks, the theory being they're heated so high uh when they were made that there's not, first of all, they're not very porous typically, unless it's pumice or something that's been aerated as it sprayed into the air. But they're they're hopefully not porous and don't have any water in them, so they won't explode when they're heated. Now, I have uh the other types of rocks are metamorphic and sedimentary. So sedimentary rocks are laid layered rocks like sandstone and metamorphic are basically then compressed and turn into other kinds of turn into a denser, denser rock. I've had all of these things explode.
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+[11:08] Even an igneous rock, when heated very suddenly, if it has inclusions or anything inside of it, can expand in weird ways and explode. I've had rocks explode in the kitchen and fly completely all around over the kitchen. I did it once at the pastry uh in one of the pastry kitchens at the French culinary and completely freaked out a group of pastry chefs. Uh and you know, plus I had to clean up the rock particles everywhere. But the good news is that you're gonna be heating up those rocks well in advance because it's gonna take hours and hours for this pig to cook.
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+[11:37] So you're gonna be heating these rocks up well, well in advance of the party people being there. So I wouldn't worry about blowing up too much, especially if it heats fairly uh evenly and it's being heated from above, which is probably how it's gonna happen from the side. I wouldn't worry overly much, like it might blow up a little bit, but you know, you know, just don't stand with your eyeballs over a hot rock because it's warming up. And once it's very hot, once it's been hot for an hour or so, I think mainly your risk of explosions are somewhat over at that point. So you're gonna want to align it really, you know, get it nice and hot, and then they cover it with lots of green vegetation, the idea being to cause steam, similar to the way you would use steam in a in a uh sorry, seaweed and a clam bake in uh in New England.
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+[12:15] And but bear in mind, this is all theoretical knowledge, not having done it myself, hands-on. Uh, and then the the last thing obviously is you're gonna want to find some nice leaves to wrap the uh the wrap the pig in. Now, this is something I have done, not in an oven at uh outside, but you know, you wrap, I've wrapped many pork shoulders in uh in leaves to do my own version of uh Kalua Pig at home, and it is delicious. Uh you want to use tea leaves if you can get them, but if you're not in Hawaii, I don't think you are, so you're probably gonna want to use banana leaves, which you can get at any local Asian uh any local Asian market. So I hope this uh helps Nick and I hope you have an excellent pig experience.
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+[12:53] But it should take several hours to cook, and like you said, you're gonna have a temperature probe, so you're not too worried about food safety. I wouldn't worry about that either. It's gonna heat up and it's gonna cook to a very high temperature. You just need to keep enough liquid in there so that it doesn't uh dry out on you. Does that sound like a good advice there?
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+[13:08] Good job. Alright, so let's go to our first commercial break and want you to call in all your questions too, 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. Cooking issues, only come out at nights leader hug retire. Nothing's new seeing the hair before.
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+[14:13] Watching wedding. We should sit with you. The following is a public service announcement from Heritage Radio Network. Tune in to Hot Grease every Monday at 3 30 p.m. Hot Grease strives to bring sustainability, localized sourcing, and other forward-thinking schools of culinary thought to the minds and kitchens of everyday folk.
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+[14:37] Each week, Nicole Taylor's conversations cover the entire spectrum of food enthusiasts, from internationally renowned culinary masters to moms on a budget looking to impress their tiniest critics. Again, that's every Monday at 3 30 p.m. Hot Grease on the Heritage Radio Network. Why don't we have a name like that? Hot Grease.
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+[14:59] Sounds awesome, right? Hot Grease. I like that a lot. Hot Grease. Alright, back to cooking issues.
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+[15:04] Call in all of your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. Dave Arnold back at you with cooking issues. And I see Nastasha has hauled out the Holland Oats as she threatened. Right?
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+[15:15] Yeah. Did you ever get to go see them in concert? No, I babysat your kids instead. Oh that sounds probably like a better bet. I mean, I think I want to remember Holland Oates as they once were.
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+[15:24] I think in most uh no offense to either Hall or Oates, because they listen not Yeah, avid listeners. But in general, uh, you know, I find that I prefer to remember people not on their comeback tour. What do you think, Nastasha? I would have liked to see. Well, you're gonna go see Elton John, right?
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+[15:42] Yeah. Yeah, alright. Like Elton John, whatever. It's not as no no judgment, no judgment. Alright.
+
+[15:49] Uh Colin Gore writes in with a series of statements and questions, so I'll just go down and we'll take a look at them. Um You mentioned he's talking to me. Uh you mentioned that you occasionally get an oil slick after diluting booze that looshes, like like the aquavite that we make with caraway and fennel. And when we say loose, you know, when you're pouring uh when you when you dilute something that has a lot of uh that's alcoholic that has a lot of dissolved oils in it, you you basically decrease the solubility of those oils as they dilute till they pop out of solution and form a haze, like uzo does. It's called the uzo effect or or you know things that loosh out.
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+[16:21] Is there a good way to stabilize that oil in booze? The oil has a lot of flavor, obviously, so I want to incorporate the slick back into the hooch. I suppose I could hold off on diluting the drink strength until right before serving, but I prefer to get the whole bottle balanced in one go. Well, it's fairly rare that I actually have uh something where the oil will separate out on top. Most of the time, what happens is you'll get an enrichment, it won't actually fully separate, but you'll get an enrichment in the oils in the top part of the bottle, but it'll stay somewhat in you know, in suspension, and then you can just shake the whole bottle and get it to come back together again.
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+[16:52] If you actually have a bottle that it fully separates out and you get the stuff on top and it won't shake back into a homogenous uh suspension, it's not really a solution anymore, but a suspension, then I recommend uh I mean you could go with an emulsifier, like a gum arabic or something like this, but the problem with that is uh is that you know it's gonna change the body of the drink somewhat. But gum arabic will help to emulsify those oils somewhat and keep them in. And luckily, gum arabic doesn't add that much viscosity to your booze. Uh you could then the next step up from that would be to use something that's a mixture of gum arabic with another stabilizer like xanthan gum. I'd recommend T I C gum saladizer 210S, which sounds gross, but it's basically just Xanthan and um and gum arabic, but it's gonna definitely affect the um texture of the drink, which is why I'd stay away from it unless you absolutely needed it.
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+[17:39] That's the product that we use to do our butter syrups and our pecan syrups, and you know, all of our sort of emulsified um all of our emulsified oil syrups that we put into drinks, which are which are delicious. Um anyway, that's my thoughts on that. Secondly, he asks, how far do you typically reduce your rotovaped port syrup? I'm running a simple vac still rig with a stir bar, magnetic stir bar, I'm assuming. And it's tough to estimate the vinyl uh final viscosity of the scissor up, and I appreciate the use of sip it sit simple cesser up.
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+[18:08] Anyway, uh for all you 666 fans out there. Uh we all have eaten so much shrimp that we get iodine poisoning. Uh while it's warm and being agitated. Lastly, uh last time I simply vaced it till it would give uh much it wouldn't give it much more H2O without a fight, and ended up with something the consistency of more meat. It was great, but I have a hunch you use something less viscous in the three cheese course.
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+[18:25] He's talking about a course where we take three different dessert wines, we break them into a syrup and a brandy in the rotovap, throw away the water water in the middle, and serve these delicious syrups with the cheeses. Yeah, I take them down to the consistency approximately of maple syrup, and it is very hard to uh deal, especially if you're not in a rotovap. When you're dealing with a roto vap, you can stop the spinning and you can watch how it falls down and you get used to judging when it uh when the reduction is done uh based on hot, you can kind of get a feeling for what it's gonna be like when it cools off. It's just by experience though. Um you know, when I do strawberry, I take it down to uh, you know, I I can take it I can get the bricks fairly high, like in the in the in the 50s or 60s even I can get the bricks up to.
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+[19:08] Um but the problem when you take port especially down too low, it starts tasting a little uh weird and tannic sometimes when it gets too too reduced. So I like to take it just to the edge. I also often will break the system open and just taste it a little bit and then and then put it, put it back together again and continue running it. So I I cheat just like everyone else, but uh it's experience like anything else, and obviously distillation and reduction under vacuum is a fine art that I wish more and more people would would learn. And speaking of TIC gums, he uh Colin writes, thanks for helping to hook you uh him up with TIC Gums.
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+[19:42] Someone at TIC heard him ask for information on the show and uh got in touch with him, and now that the head of uh of TIC Gums, Dr. Marnito, is going to the University of Maryland to talk about the structural properties uh of gum polymers. Um and and Colin and uh Dr. Nito are holding an event uh this Friday uh at 1 p.m. That's uh March 11th, hosted by the University of Maryland's material science department.
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+[20:06] And any listeners, apparently, you've you have garnered an invitation, listeners in the Maryland area, to go to room 2108 in the chemical nuclear engineering building. Uh if you're anywhere uh near uh UMD's uh campus there in the DC, Maryland area, uh stop by. It should be a very interesting um should be a very interesting lecture. Uh another, as for Colin's last thing, he he called in a while ago or wrote in, I forget. Uh he was trying to get some of the astringency out of uh walnut liqueur because the astringency comes obviously from the from the skins in the walnut uh and he's trying to remove the astringency by freezing the finished liquor.
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+[20:41] The idea being that a lot of times if you take like persimmons or quince, it has a lot of tannin in it, tannic principles that are astringent. If you freeze them, those tannins complex basically and become non astringent anymore, and so it kills the tannin. He was hoping to use liquid nitrogen to do that to a bottle of finished booze. Bad news, it doesn't work. He has to go back to the drawing board and try to get, and I'm gonna have to quote this one.
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+[21:03] If listeners or or friends of ours will know that Harold McGee has the world's greatest walnuts. We walked into his place one day, and you know, Nastasha and I, because we'll snack on anyone's crap if it's just laying out, right? We start taking these his walnuts off the table, and we're like, Jesus God, this is the best walnut in the world. Of course, McGee has the best damn walnuts in the world. And I we mentioned this on a radio show before, and so uh I will leave Collins with this.
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+[21:28] He says, uh I gotta find I gotta find his his exact quotes. He says, he's gonna try again if he can get a hold of McGee's sweet, sweet nuts. It's the exact exact quote. Get a hold of McGee's sweet, sweet nuts. And wouldn't we all like to, right?
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+[21:44] No. Uh love it. Anyway, okay. Uh thanks for writing in. And Colin, uh, tell us any of your any of your adventures and tell us how the uh TIC Gums lecture goes.
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+[21:54] Uh Seth writes in with an egg tempering question. Hi, I've got a question for the cooking issue show. My question is about tempering eggs when making custard and gelato and etc. Is it really necessary? Basically, I've learned for years to make custard uh by heating the milk and then slowly incorporated the heated milk into egg yolks bit by bit, slowly raising the temperature so they cook but don't coagulate.
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+[22:14] I question this because a friend of mine recently made an alfredo sauce, and he simply wicked whisked the egg yolts into the cream beforehand while it was still cold, and then slowly raised the temperature of the complete mixture. He said that this way, uh this is the way his mother always made it, and it never coagulates and it always comes out smooth and delicious. Next time I made gelato at home, I tried it that way, and everything turned out fine. I heated over a double boiler to be extra safe. So did I get lucky both times, or is there any reason to do this whole temperature uh tempering thing in the first place?
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+[22:38] I'm becoming convinced that it's an unnecessary, time-consuming step. Alright. Seth, here's the dealy. I don't think there's any technical reason to heat the milk beforehand and pour it into the egg yolks except this. You want to heat, like a lot of times we're dealing with large batches, right?
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+[22:54] And so you have a lot of milk that you're gonna be putting into your egg yolks. So the idea is to get the milk hot first, right? So you can heat the milk up fairly quickly. You don't have to sit there, you know, tending it and worrying the whole time, right? Then you can temper it into your egg yolks and then slowly bring it up the last couple of degrees to get it cooked.
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+[23:10] So I think in actuality, when you're doing a large batch, the tempering is really a time-saving procedure and not a time-wasting procedure. If you're doing a smaller batch and you're gonna have to take it up s and you're gonna take it up slowly and you can watch the whole thing and keep it stirring as you go, I don't think there's any need to heat the milk first and then temper it into the egg yolks. I think it's it's just a matter of convenience. If you're starting with a completely cold mixture, stirring it together, making sure it's completely mixed, and then slowly heating it, you're not gonna have any any problems. I mean, but I think uh and so I think for smaller batches, things like an Alfredo that you can basically hold or like a like if you're making like something very small, uh then it's probably easier to do it like you say, start from cold and heat up.
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+[23:50] But I think when you get to bigger and bigger batches, you're gonna find it's easier to go the other way. To heat the big batch of milk quickly up to temperature and then to temper it into your egg yolks. I hope that makes hope that makes uh sense. I think I think that's the case. Someone's gonna someone's gonna write in who's more of an expert on this, and say, No, I get that all the time, by the way.
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+[24:10] You you might not know it because those guys tend not to call the uh call the show. They end up like writing me later and saying that kind of thing over the email. I guess that's my just interpretation of what they say then, since I'm just reading it. Yeah, yeah. Yeah.
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+[24:21] Anyway. Joshua calls in with a right saying with a yogurt question. I have made yogurt five times with varying results. My procedure is scalding the milk and letting it cool to around body temperature. I then stir in a couple tablespoonsfuls uh of Greek yogurt and place the whole pot in the oven with only the interior light uh pilot light.
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+[24:38] Light or pilot light, you think? Pilot light. Pilot light? Pilot light. Providing heat.
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+[24:43] After leaving the pot, sit overnight. I place it in the fridge and strain it uh and uh strain it until it's a little uh less thick than uh leven, which is Greek strained yogurt. Uh and the first two times were quite successful with whole milk, but uh since I haven't been able to uh recreate the results with reduced fat. Probably because reduced fat milk doesn't taste as good as whole milk. Um my question is how does the fat percentage of the milk affect the final yield and thickness of the yogurt?
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+[25:05] And also, do I really need to scald the milk if it's pasteurized? Can I just combine the milk and yogurt and let it sit on the countertop for a day or so? I'm not big on checking temperatures. What's the easiest way to make authentic uh thick yogurt uh labness style? Okay, Joshua, here are my feelings on this.
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+[25:20] Um I don't frankly know how the texture is gonna be affected, I mean how the thickness of it's gonna be affected by the fat content, but I guarantee you that the whole milk is gonna taste a whole hell of a lot better than the reduced fat stuff. Especially because reduced fat milk is such crud anyway. I mean, I really like if uh it makes me so angry like when I see people they use like the 2% and the 1%. I mean, what are you really saving? You know, like just don't eat as much of this stuff and just use milk that tastes better for for goodness sakes.
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+[25:50] Go back to using the whole milk. What do you think, Nastasha? I completely agree. I know it. You know, like you know, you know, seriously.
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+[25:56] Instead of having 18 quarts of like 1% or skim, which is vile, disgusting puke, instead of having that in your coffee, just add a little bit less of something delicious and satisfying, like whole milk. And good whole milk at that, if you can get it. Stuff that tastes delicious. Anyway. Uh okay, so that's my feeling on the whole milk.
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+[26:14] Now, on the pasteurization. Pasteurized milk has a lot of the uh bacteria wiped out, but uh uh there's always bacteria left in it, which is why, you know, they it just arrives when you're when you when you you know open it and close it, bacteria gets in it. Which is I think why the recipes always recommend heating it uh up to like 180 and then letting it cool down. Uh it also helps because now you're warming it and as it cools down, uh, you know, it's it's ripe for accepting uh the cultures that you're gonna put in the yogurt. Um there's also, and I don't know whether this is affecting it, but it goes back to a question we had before, when you pasteurize milk, you're changing the characteristics of the milk, right?
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+[26:51] So you're you're basically pre-agglomerating some of the whey proteins and you're also stopping some of the uh curdling ability that you get on rennet casein from um when you're making cheese. So it might also be, but I I have I didn't have time to research, I apologize, Joshua, but it might also be that the heating of the milk um helps the texture of the yogurt uh aside from any properties of killing bacteria. But I don't know. Uh uh next time I speak to McGee or someone maybe also write in and tell me this. I looked in uh uh you know in McGee's books, and he indeed, even in pasteurized milk, recommends heating it up to 180.
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+[27:24] So there might be something there uh from a technical standpoint affecting the milk with the heating. Uh as for then letting it cooling, you want to let it cool down to about 115, give or take, stir in the um, stir in the uh the culture, the live culture, the yogurt that you already have. And then the temperature isn't really crucial, right? Except for the taste is going to change depending on the temperature at which the yogurt's inoculated. And you know, it could be done even in a couple of hours, depending on how much you stir in and how active the cultures are that go into it.
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+[27:54] But I think you are gonna get varying results depending on the temperature that you uh that you use. Now, if you find some stable place in uh in your kitchen, like the oven with the with uh just a pilot on, although my oven's too hot uh for that, or a particular place in the kitchen, and you do it once there, right? Then it should be the same every time you do it in that location, as long as that location stays the same. So you as long as you keep all of your variables the same from time to time, even if you don't have a lot of control, right, uh, or you don't measure a lot of temperatures, you should be able to get very fairly consistent results. But it's never gonna be as thick as you want it, in real Greek style, unless after it's made, you put the yogurt over uh, you know, over a cheesecloth or over a piece of muslin, then let it strain in a colander uh overnight in the fridge to let it the extra way drain out.
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+[28:44] That's the real key to making a really nice thick uh Greek yogurt. But I hope uh Joshua, I hope that helps. Uh and with that, we will go to our second commercial break. Call in all your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues.
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+[29:05] What I want, you got the hard to handle. The candle feels what I got full stop, a thought scream to scatter. And you pull them all together, and I have a candle display. Oh yeah, well by you. Well, well, well you make a mother to who On a night but bad we become a screamer when the men's wind scream laugh at it.
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+[30:01] Oh yes. This is uh Cooking Issues coming to me with the Hollow Notes. Nastasha, I have to say that uh much as I was making fun of the Hollow Notes earlier, I definitely appreciate that one. I really do. I appreciate that.
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+[30:14] But really making my dreams coming true. Making my dreams coming true every day here on Cooking Issues. Uh you still have about 15 minutes to call your questions in to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. You know what, you guys?
+
+[30:27] Another thing, uh, I'm gonna put a uh call out for people to write in with uh guests that they would like to hear appear on the cooking issues. What do you think about that, Nastasha? Within reason, right? Well, I mean, we're not gonna get Barack Obama on if that's what you mean. You know.
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+[30:40] But uh, you know, like look, we have a group of friends that if we get a request, I could pester them. Like I could pester McGee, I could pester uh You're supposed to have Tony. Yeah, Tony Canigliaro, and you know, any any one of like our known, our known friends and and associates in the cooking world, Wiley, you know, anyone. Request them and we'll see whether we can uh whether we can pester them with it with a live request to or you know, the request to come in to get to get them on. Uh but you know don't ask me for Barack Obama, you know, we can't we can't get that, right?
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+[31:10] Okay. Um Joseph writes in and he says, Dave, I've been researching various methods of crystallizing flower petals so that I can use them to make a syrup, which will then be made into a caramel. Why would you crystallize the flower petals to make a syrup with them? Hmm. Anyway.
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+[31:24] The question I have is that some formulas say use egg whites, and others say use a combination of egg whites and gum arabic. And uh Joseph writes in with a fun note that gum arabic was used in the mummification process. And I I too appreciate mummies. Nastasha's rolling her eyes because she's sick of hearing me talk about mummies. But I love a mummy and any kind of a mummy story.
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+[31:41] And I was uh I was wondering why, uh I was wondering why they would use these two things and is there a difference. In addition, what added benefit does the gum arabic provide besides increasing the viscosity of the egg white solution, and why would it be called crystallization when there's technically no crystals being formed? Well, I think the procedure you're talking about is either dipping uh a flower petal in egg white or gum arabic and then um basically brushing it with uh super fine uh sugar to uh and then letting it dry out. So assuming we're talking about the same thing, there's they're basically two different um two different things. Gum arabic is obviously a hydrocolloid, it's a it's a tree exudate, and it's one of the very few hydrocolloids that instead of being a uh basically a linear chain with very short branches, is a highly branched molecule.
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+[32:24] So they look like big ping pong balls, like a millipectin almost. They're like big. But what that means is is that it's extremely soluble. You can have very high percentage of gum arabic uh syrups, right? So if you look at something like gum syrup, old school gum syrup is basically a simple syrup with a lot of gum arabic added.
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+[32:42] So the the re the one of the great things it's used for is this adhesive um or uh or coating because you can have something that's still fairly liquid, right, but has a high percentage of solids in it, and then when it dries out, it dries uh to you know a clear, crystalline, uh not clear crystal, but a clear, like you know, hard or you know, glue thing, dries back to gum arabic fairly quickly. So, uh if you use a lot of gum arabic, uh, you know, it can it can do that. And a lot of the recipes I looked at use only gum arabic to do it. I don't know why you would use egg whites and gum arabic together. I have to do more research, frankly, I didn't get a chance to to look at it very closely.
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+[33:18] But uh I would guess that if you are using a lot of gum arabic and had it sitting around, that you would just have that syrup and you could um and you could just go and it wouldn't go bad kind of because you'd have a very high solids in it, and you probably wouldn't get a lot of bacterial growth in it because it would have you know such a high solids uh content, and it'd probably be easier to keep around than eggs. It's also probably more sanitary than eggs. In the house, I'd probably just use egg whites because it's so fast, and in general, once it's dried out, I'm not so worried about contamination. Um and I don't know why they call it that if there's no actual crystals uh crystals being formed, but the when I've done it, you are brushing it with crystal, so the flour itself ends up being crystallized, even if you don't actually form your own crystals. Umstasha, you said we had another question come in.
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+[34:01] Okay. Uh this comes in from red. And said you answered my question about the red staining of chicken thighs due to pulling a hard vacuum on them. Lowering the vacuum has been a complete success. Thank you.
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+[34:11] But who heck is from red. Interesting. Uh I have uh I've been now switched to bone-in chicken breasts uh from boneless, and I don't know why, but I have. The thing I noticed after cooking for three hours at 60 C, depending on the thickness, is after they sit in the fridge, they tend to weep blood. Do I need to cook longer?
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+[34:27] Is this part of the staining from the bones? Um not sure. 60 C is uh low is low for that uh for chicken breasts. I mean, they're cooked, but most uh people are gonna want them up around 64, 63, 64. Um it's still gonna retain it, might not be pink at 60, but it's still gonna retain a lot of those juices, and they probably will weep, especially out of the bones.
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+[34:50] I mean, even at three hours, I think you're gonna be better uh for 64 degrees for like an hour uh uh rather than sixty for three, using the extra hours to the two hours to try and get the color into it at that low temperature. I would switch up to to sixty-four for uh sixty-three or sixty-four for an hour, but you're gonna have a really tough time with the with the bone um and and the stuff coming out in a vacuum, even in a lower vacuum. I don't know. Please speak to whoever it is and tell them that you would really like to take the bone out of it because I really have a there's just a lot of problems with uh putting chicken in in the bone uh in the vacuum. You could try to switch to a Ziploc situation where there's no vacuum at all and that might help it, but I'm not sure.
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+[35:34] But please give some give some of those things a try and then um you know write back or call back and tell us how it worked. We'll try to do some more troubleshooting right? Yes. Because chicken's a problem. Right?
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+[35:45] Chicken's a problem in the bag. First of all the the more vacuum you suck on a chicken aside from the fact that it it it sucks the um but bones are hollow. Chicken bones are hollow and they're filled with with red red crap. And when you vacuum it the red crap comes out and then uh you know you can't really get rid of it unless you cook it to a really really high temperature like in the 80s, 80s somewhere, 70s or 70s or 80s. So I tend not to like the and also I think the vacuum affects the texture of the chicken.
+
+[36:08] So as is as much as you can I I think you should suck a very mild vacuum if you suck a vacuum at all on a piece of chicken. Alright now uh one last thing Colin ribbed us on by the way that I forgot to mention is uh the contractual post. I'll have you know that I I'm a day person, right? So I said that a week ago and in fact the post is already up in draft form. I'm adding the pictures it'll be up by end of day today.
+
+[36:32] It is a 4,000 word mega mega post mega post on um on nickalization. So keep a lookout for that. Wait we got a call and I'll take that real quick. Hello? Caller on the air hi Dave.
+
+[36:46] Howdy. Um in a Linea and a couple other cookbooks I've seen, they talk about uh blanching garlic and milk a couple times. Does that take away the bite? Huh. Well, you know, it's funny you should say that because when I cook milk in the pressure cooker, sorry, milk, duh.
+
+[36:59] When I cook garlic in the pressure cooker, I also cook it in milk, and I don't know why. How about that? Um I don't know. But I have the book on garlic and alliums. So um I'll look I'll look it up.
+
+[37:17] I I uh it's like uh it's also I blanch horseradish in milk, and I don't know why, uh, as opposed to water, right? I mean, don't we we all kind of do that. We're trained to do that, but I don't it's kind of natural for me to do it, but uh I really don't know why, if there's any sort of chemical chemical reason. I mean, the stuff that gives garlic its bite are groups of uh sulfur compounds and th you know, thiols and things like that. Um and I wonder whether there's something in milk that tames those.
+
+[37:45] This this sounds like uh this sounds like an area for for further further research. Um I mean when I you can cook garlic, obviously in a pressure cooker, and when you do it, you blast the you blast the pungency away even without milk. Um but there's a host of things that we blanch in milk and no one really says why. I'm trying to think. I'm thinking in my head, the silence is me thinking in my head.
+
+[38:11] Can you think of any reason? Uh off the top of my head, no, I cannot. Alright, well, this is uh like the like the yeast question. I mean, even though this is something we do, this is obviously needs some further uh investigation. So what I think I'll do is uh next time I pester McGee, I'll try put it basically what I do is I call McGee, I don't know, what once every two weeks or so, and then I sit there and I just pepper him with absurd questions for like 45 minutes, and then he maybe says hello.
+
+[38:41] And then the conversation's over. Nastasha thinks I'm a low quality human being for the way I pepper him with questions. But I'm gonna add this to my list, and plus I'll do some research and I'll go read the. I think the name of the author of the garlic book is Block, I think is the guy's name. And uh he it's actually a really interesting book, but I I read it kind of very quickly.
+
+[38:58] It's got a it's got a forew by a Nobel laureate. Pretty cool book on garlic. But um I'll definitely look that up and I'll try and think about it. And and I'll I'm gonna try and think about the problem of milk blanching in general. Because I think it is interesting, because it's quite expensive, really, when you think about it, to blanch everything in milk.
+
+[39:14] Right, Steve? Yeah, yeah. So it is expensive. So we'll look into it and we'll and we'll we'll definitely talk about that next week. Alrighty?
+
+[39:21] Great. Hey, you gonna have him on your show again? Uh who, McGee? Yeah. All right, is this a request?
+
+[39:26] Yes. Uh we'll we'll uh we'll call him in and have him on maybe we'll try to get him for next week. Well, actually, actually, you know what? I'm calling I'm calling in next week because I'm gonna be in Vancouver at Tales of the Cocktail. Maybe the week after that I'll try to get I'll try to get McGee.
+
+[39:38] Great. Alrighty, cool. Thanks a lot for the question. Thank you. Alright, so back to the Nickstabilization Mega Post.
+
+[39:46] So the um it one section of it that I'll talk about now on on the air, is uh I pretty badly burnt my tongue last stupidly. Uh I pretty badly burnt my tongue last week on what day of the week was that? Friday. Thursday? Thursday.
+
+[40:04] Thursday. It was Thursday. Wednesday. Wednesday, whatever, last week. I burnt my tongue with Lie.
+
+[40:09] So here's how it happened. We use lie in cooking uh for a lot of things, for pretzels. We use it in the Harold McGee class for our eggs. I'm I have a use for it in the Nyx to Mile post that you're gonna read uh hopefully if you're a reader of the blog, which I hope you are. Um and somehow a bunch of lye, sodium hydroxide, got put into a quart container with no label on it.
+
+[40:30] And uh we're moving a lot of stuff around, and someone puts this container in front of my hand, and I'm not uh in front of my face, and it's like, what is it? I'm not used to thinking about something in my kitchen being so dangerous, so I stupidly put my finger in it, because I have literally dozens of different quart containers with powders in them sitting around. And most of them are hydrocolloids, uh simple acids like tartaric, citric, and malik, um, you know, uh what I desire to say hydrocolloids, sugar, salt, things like that. And so you can just go boom and taste it and it's done. So I go, boop, taste it, lie.
+
+[41:06] Uh it's the most violent reaction I've ever had on my tongue. It's the equivalent of eating a handful of those Seshouan buttons. Um, and I instantly knew something was horribly, horribly wrong. And so I spat out, ran into the kitchen, and started washing my mouth out. You know, thankfully I didn't swallow it, or I'd be in really, really, really, really big trouble.
+
+[41:28] Start washing my mouth out uh for you know several minutes, look in the mirror, my tongue is bleeding, the roof of my mouth is bleeding, it's eaten away all of the taste buds on one half of my tongue. And uh so I'm like, well, I better go to the ER. So I go to the ER and had to you know stay there for hours while they made sure that I didn't ingest any and I have to take steroids and all this other stuff, but uh the tongue heals miraculously, and uh my taste is is mostly back, uh although there's still a swath where I have my taste buds burned away, but it's it's coming back. Um I'm here to tell you lye is dangerous. I had it in my house, right?
+
+[42:05] And so I I threw it all away because God forbid my kids should get a hold of it. So it's reasonable to cook with lye. It's like you know, a good ingredient for for what it's for, but just be extremely careful. If you have anything like that, uh and you have kids around, it doesn't take much for them to really, really, really, really damage themselves. I, you know, I've known for years how dangerous it is, and I've always been paranoid about it getting on my hands, but I never knew how fast the damage happens uh, you know, than when it happened to me last week.
+
+[42:36] So just be extremely careful when you have it around. Make sure that everyone who cooks with it in your kitchen is extremely careful about it, and make sure that there's no possible way on God's earth that any child could ever, ever get their hands on it, or you're gonna be in big, big trouble, right? So, to round out cooking issues for this week, I'm gonna say uh a little story and uh and a hope and a help. I need a help from our listeners for for more research. So I've been researching a lot about corn for various reasons, mostly because I'm a dork, and uh I came across uh something that basically said there was a lot of corn research and genetic corn research that was brought about by the atomic nuclear testing at the bikini A toll in the 40s after World War II, because what they did was they took a uh whole bunch of corn and they exposed it to an atomic blast, several atomic blasts, and then they uh would plant it to see whether the seeds, presumably to see whether the seeds germinated or not.
+
+[43:29] But they noticed that there was a good bit of mutation in the uh in the in the corn that that that was new, right? And so then it be then the Atomic Energy Commission started sponsoring a lot of research on corn and corn cultivars and corn mutations. So if you look at a lot of the research on corn in the in the 40s and 50s, it's. It's sponsored by the Atomic Energy Commission. And they would actually create radiation sources with you know various forms of radioactive cobalt and whatnot to purposely irradiate seeds to try and get genetic mutation.
+
+[43:56] So it caused this explosion in um in genetic research and different kinds of corn uh mutations. Now, one of the main corn mutations that was discovered, discovered in 1949, I believe, was uh a gene called Shrunken2. And shrunken two is the precursor to all super sweet corn that we eat today. And before that, corn was relatively sweet or not, but not the super sweet that we have today. So there's a researcher who just happened to be chewing on a bunch of mutant corn while he was sorting through it, and noticed that this one shriveled uh dried piece of corn was super sweet.
+
+[44:34] Isolated that gene, re-grew it, and that is the genesis of all the super sweet corn today. So here's what I need to find out. And I've got a bunch of calls in. I want to find out the exact chain that leads from the atomic testing in bikini atoll to super sweet corn, because there's some sort of link there, right? You know, whether, and I'm hoping that all super sweet corn is a result of um of irradiation by uh cobalt as a result of the initial experiments done with the atomic testing.
+
+[45:04] Because I just love the idea of nuclear sweet corn, don't you? And this has been cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store.
+
+[45:36] You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening. You got my hair ball twisted. The following is a public service announcement from Heritage Foods USA. In late March, Dan, Andrea Patrick and the Heritage team are traveling to the coldest reaches of the Northeast Kingdom of Vermont to help the Cantor family tap sugar maple trees.
+
+[46:03] Then the maple sap will flow down to the sugar house where it is boiled gently over a wood fire, just as it has been for generations. Just a few days later, this Great A amber syrup will be poured into the beautiful glass jugs and sent to you for pancakes, waffles, desserts, glazing hams, or just drinking by the spoonful. There's only a limited supply, so order today. Each one-liter bottle is $45, including delivery. Delivery will be at the end of March, and we will notify you of the exact shipping date.
+
+[46:33] Each shipment will include a CD explaining the whole process. You can also follow us on YouTube while we work and bottle. In the meantime, you can head over to the Heritage Radio Network archives and listen to Linda Palacio talk about maple syrup on her show A Taste of the Past, episode 12. For more information, visit www.heritagefoods USA.com. The following is a public service announcement from Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[46:58] Join Wine and Presarios Erin Fitzpatrick and Brian DeMarco as they dish out on the latest industry news with winemakers and tastemakers on Heritage Radio Network's revamped wine show, Unfiltered. Erin Fitzpatrick, one of the first hosts on HRN with her program at the root of it, amps up the volume and unfiltered content with co-host Brian DeMarco in this 2011 Redux. True to the original format, Aaron and Brian will keep you abreast of current happenings and break down the news and global events, distilling complex into anecdotal stories that inspire. From media and political events to hailstorms in Argentina, no topic is out of bounds. Tune in every week to hear them chat up the industry's biggest personalities and host on air tastings with visiting ventors and the country's hottest smoliers.
+
+[47:42] Whether you're an expert or an enthusiast, Unfiltered demystifies wine and lets you know what it really takes to get a bottle from the vineyard to your neighborhood wine shop. Unfiltered broadcasts live every Tuesday at 4 p.m. on Heritage Radio Network. The following is a public service announcement from the Museum of Food and Drink. Dave Arnold and Patrick Martins have gathered a team of New York's most innovative chefs and bartenders to create a nine-course fundraiser lunch at Del Posto, Sunday, March 27th.
+
+[48:13] Their intent to kick start the greatest food museum in the world. The menu for this unprecedented event is derived from educational themes of the museum. Chefs will draw inspiration from sources outside their normal sphere. How will a cutting edge chef handle the Paleolithic or a dish only using pre-Columbian ingredients? What will a modern Italian chef do with ancient Rome?
+
+[48:32] The chefs include David Chang of Omofuku, Wiley Dufrain of WD50, Mark Ladner of Del Posto, Nils Norrin of the French Culinary Institute, Cesare Casella of Salumaria Rossi, Carlo Moraci of Robert's, Brooks Headley of Del Posto, and Christina Tozzi of Momofuku Milk Bar. Bartenders include Audrey Sanders of Pegu Club, Thomas Waugh of Death and Company, Simon Ford of Perno Ricard, Damon Bolti of Prime Meats, and Evan Clem of BR Guest Restaurants. Proceeds from the event will directly support the Museum of Food and Drink. Tickets are very limited and two hundred and fifty dollars per person. To purchase tickets, please visit Mofad.eventbright.com.
+
+[49:13] That's M-O-F-A-D.eventbright.com. Once again, M-O-F-A-D.E-V-E-N-T-V-R-I-T-E dot com. Sponsored by Fernau Ricard, Heritage Foods USA, Pat LaFreda Meats, Barter House Wines, Del Posto Restaurant.
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+[0:10] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. We're recording on a Monday, but we're going to be broadcasting on Tuesday. So if you're listening to it now, you're probably not listening to it live. But uh if you happen to have read our blog post, you can call in your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128.
+
+[0:28] This is the last cooking issues before the big museum fundraiser event. It's going on uh at Del Posto next weekend on Sunday. You can still go and buy your tickets at Mofad M O F A D. That's the Museum of Food and Drink. Mofad.eventbright B-R-I-T-E uh dot com.
+
+[0:46] That's uh Mofad uh uh Mofad.eventbright.com. Anyway, uh we are privileged today to have a special call in guest, Harold McGee is going to be the the ultimate master blaster of the science of deliciousness, is going to be joining us via phone. Unfortunately, we're working uh very hard on the museum uh event, and so Nastasha cannot be with us today in the studio because in fact she is delivering produce to WD50 because Wiley Dufrain is gonna be working on the dish today for uh you know, doing some preparatory work today for his dish. So no Nastasha, but we do have Harold. Harold, are you there?
+
+[1:22] I am Dave. Good morning. Good morning. How are you doing? I'm doing okay.
+
+[1:26] How's the West Coast treating you? Uh it's it's okay. This last week has been really rainy and cold. Uh today it uh it was sunny to begin with, but the sun has disappeared, so it looks like it it may be another grim week. Uh I'd love it then.
+
+[1:41] You know, I hate the sunshine. Right. Well, but you know, 50 degrees, you want a little uh a few rays. Yeah, all right, all right. Yes.
+
+[1:49] If it's gonna be fifty out, might as well be a little bit uh a little bit sunny. Okay. So you want to start uh hitting these questions? We have a bunch of email questions in. Sure.
+
+[1:57] Uh before before we start, someone uh wrote in one of the questions. Uh they want to know the secret of Thai iced tea. Uh the mysterious spices in Thai iced tea. And I have to say I don't know 'cause I'm not a uh I don't really I don't drink it. Um do you drink it?
+
+[2:15] I'm afraid I ha uh I haven't for a long time. I did a couple times years ago, and uh uh yeah, I just can't pull back the uh the flavors. Yeah. And so I mean I think that, you know, this is the kind of uh question uh Aaron wrote in with it. I think this is the kind of question um you know, I would hate to give just a researched answer off of the web of of what belongs in it because I don't have the actual taste memory in my head to know whether it's right or not.
+
+[2:44] It's not something I've worked on because it's not something that i i it's just not something that I've you know focused on ever. But you know, I'm sure that we can find the answer. I mean if you uh you know, if you see PIM when you're out there or something like that, we can probably get the answer of what the what the stuff is, but I would hate to I would hate to guess on something like that. Yeah, yeah. No, same here.
+
+[3:06] All right, Aaron. So I apologize, but I will not be able to answer that question this week because uh I just don't want to give uh an answer that's BS. I'd rather not give a B I'd rather give no answer than a BS answer, right? Yeah, and also I mean uh d uh for Aaron to do his own research, uh shape him would be a good place to start. Uh David Thompson's book on Thai cooking is uh seems to be the the standard.
+
+[3:33] So there are a couple of, you know, authorities you can start with and then kind of move on from there. Yeah, I'm sure Thompson has a recipe for it in the book. I have it at home. I just haven't been home to to look at it to get the uh to get the the recipe out of it. But he his book is, you know, as far as I can tell, quite well respected.
+
+[3:50] I know that he's done all of his research on the on kind of the old on the old manuscript, so he has a a thorough knowledge of uh current Thai cooking and historical Thai cooking. So in fact I think he has uh a new book uh this last year on uh street cooking, street tie, uh, which might be the uh an even better place to look. Yeah. And that's where we'd probably go anyway if we were just gonna give you it wouldn't be our answer, it would be his answer anyway. So Yeah, yeah, exactly.
+
+[4:18] Or or check out Pim's uh Pim's uh site. Now I'm gonna knock out uh one question right away, and uh Harold, you can chime in because you've had some of this stuff. But uh uh Rick writes in and says that his roommate Zach's advisor just purchased a new uh rotary evaporator for the lab and has agreed to let them use it for a few days for food purposes, and they want to take maximum advantage of uh of everything that they can do in it, and uh you know they want to build their own, but they they're not ready for it quite yet. And so they want to know what we should do. Like uh he just wants to distill basically as much as possible.
+
+[4:52] Um he wants to get the flavors of phalernum uh into it, maybe. He wants to do um Martell Cordon Blue is ripe or something. I've I've actually wrote a VAT and Harold, you've had it. Uh we did a uh event with uh Mandy Aftel where we wrote a Vap Martell with frankincense. I don't know whether you like frankincense, but Martel does rotovap quite well.
+
+[5:10] Uh he wants to do something with maybe uh absinthe, any of these things, oak, dirt, grass, cigars, uh, peppers, like Wahillo Ancho and stuff like that. What are the rotovap stuff do you like, uh, Harold? Uh pretty much everything you've done. Thanks. I I love what you do with habaneros, for example.
+
+[5:29] That's that's an amazing experience to be able to separate the the heat from the aroma. Right. Yeah, I mean I've I've done dried and and uh have you ever had any of the dried pepper? I prefer the fresh pepper ones because I like the floral note that they have more. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[5:47] Um and then the I mean the the dishes that I've had uh that have really stuck in my my head, in fact the very first one is probably still the the one I remember best, uh, is the um the Roka family did a um an oyster in a jelly that was flavored with uh earth. Uh so um uh one of the ideas on the list here was uh along with oak and grass and cigars was dirt. And dirt works, although uh you and I had it, I think, um, when um uh the Rokas were visiting the FCI and it wasn't the same. Well they didn't give it to me. He wouldn't give he said he was gonna give it to me and he didn't, probably because it wasn't the same, maybe.
+
+[6:35] Uh yeah, yeah. So uh in fact I I had it and it wasn't as good. And I I think with something uh a flavoring that you uh rotovap that isn't a standard food ingredient. Uh it's more of an environmental uh aroma. Uh I think you have to just nail the concentration just right, otherwise it tastes like dirt instead of like the forest.
+
+[6:59] Well, and also they were using a water based distillate, and the water based isulates tend not to be fixed very well. So if they're opening and closing the bottle and it has to be transported, I mean, I don't know uh what kind of freshness problem they have with that just in terms of loss of the volatiles, but I mean it's a huge problem with uh with non-alcoholic rotovapped products is that they just tend to the the aroma is so fugitive they tend to just pfft go, you know? Could that have been it? Was it overly dirty or was it just not not as just unbalanced? What was it the the one?
+
+[7:29] Well, it's a good question. I was I was guessing that it was uh the concentration because it did seem to be just stronger. Um but it could have been stronger because you know the wrong things were were popping out. And um so it it could have been that it was just uh you know, he he had to prepare the distillate and then bring it with him, and uh who knows how many days old it was, and that may have been the problem. Right.
+
+[7:53] Well, okay, if you have a roto vap for just a couple of days, I would uh obviously I would recommend trying something that you could do no other way, and that would be some sort of fresh herb, right? Uh some sort of fresh herb uh that you distill, and I would drink that right away. Make it very, very fresh, very, you know, summery spring like. Uh that's like, you know, the one that we do with the um do with the Thai basil and cilantro and uh the cucumber and the orange, right? Something something like that with those flavors.
+
+[8:20] Because uh you can't recreate that with a normal distillation because the temperature is too high and it's gonna alter the flavor of the herb. So I would definitely do that. I would then do um something like uh uh a pepper. I would choose a fresh one that's floral, kind of red, so you can get the floral notes so you can see what it's like that the spice doesn't go through. I would then do horseradish because horseradish makes an intensely, intensely pungent because the the the pungent principle of horseradish does distill.
+
+[8:46] And that's gonna last you a long time. So you'll have that for uh uh you know, a good long time. Then just start doing wacky things like de-oke some liquors, um, you know, try some of the culinary preps like uh dirt or earth. Just remember you're gonna have to uh some of the things that are more aromatic, like horseradish or um or habaneros or whatever you do, you're gonna have to totally break down and clean all the grease out of the rotovap joints uh before you run the next batch because you'll get contaminated. There's also if you've never run one, unless your roommate knows how to run it really well, or the or the the you know the uh professor knows how to run it really well, there is a learning curve associated with it.
+
+[9:22] Don't set it to the automatic distillation, sit there and and actually constantly force the distillation so that you're getting uh the fastest rate possible. Set your chiller as low as it can possibly go. For alcohol, you're gonna want to set it around minus twenty Celsius. We now use a cold finger distillation, distill with uh liquid nitrogen, and we can do water-based distillations that way. But um have some fun with it.
+
+[9:42] Tell us how it worked out. Right? That's good advice, right, Harold? Yeah, yeah. It's always fun.
+
+[9:48] Good stuff. I've never done a cigar. I don't know. I've done smoky stuff. I've never done a cigar.
+
+[9:55] Anyway, um an unsmoked cigar, you think you means, or like the ashes of cigar? No, it must be unsmoked. I mean, the the fermented leaves, that's the that would be really interesting. Right. Right, but it's not characteristically what you think of as cigar the smoke.
+
+[10:12] It's a different, it's a completely different thing. Well, yeah, it's the cigar box smell rather than the yeah, than the the smoke room, which which I think is a good thing. Right, right. Yeah. All right, here's a question for you, Harold.
+
+[10:25] Uh, does r using reduced fat uh milk lead to a higher way higher whey production in uh when you're making yogurt? Like if you're gonna break it. Well, uh it shouldn't. Um because if you're using reduced fat milk, usually reduced fat milk is um supplemented with uh whey solids which include uh lactoglobulin which is uh a whey protein not the the casein proteins that that curdle but uh whey protein that's soluble but when you when you heat the milk uh which you should do at 180 for 30 minutes before you make the yogurt that protein denatures and helps uh give the yogurt body and and uh water retaining uh ability and so uh a reduced fat milk is gonna have more of that protein and it should in fact uh release less whey rather than more and the heating then is necessary to uh alter the whey proteins that is a necessary step because that was one of the questions before uh yeah in fact if you uh if you just make the the yogurt without the preheating step you'll of course still get uh curdled milk but it's not gonna have the kind of um thick pleasing consistency that you really want there you have it all right and uh then as a separate question what makes uh a marinate effective obvious factors are uh time but uh what about uh oils ratios of oils, acids or other liquids or the consistency of the herbs and other aromatics uh Joshua would like to know. What do you think?
+
+[12:06] Well um i uh uh yeah d different ingredients are gonna provide different things uh and uh consistency for example you're gonna get a lot more direct contact with uh the meat that you're marinating if the uh material has been finely comminuted. So if it's uh if it's ground or very, very finely minced and instead of chopped or whole um uh if it's spices then uh you know some of the aromas are gonna get out into the liquid and will get into the into the meat that way. But there's not much that happens beyond the surface unless you're actually gonna leave it in there for days. So that's something to keep in mind. Or if you vacuum bag.
+
+[12:51] Uh yeah yeah or jacquard obviously if you jacard it or inject then you can have this stuff happen very quickly. I mean I've noticed okay so a lot of people they'll do uh a buttermilade which you know chicken is fairly friable along the fibers you can get some penetration and if you vacuum bag it you especially can when you cook it that way I find sometimes it gets like uh acidic brines for me if you're not gonna take the next step and overcook the meat in a traditional way if you're gonna do so vide work on it it just is too mushy to me. You lose too much structure. What do you think? Yeah no I agree.
+
+[13:26] Uh that's that's uh something you see you know if you if you do a a typical wine marinade and overdo it, then what you end up with is the surface layer that you can just scrape off because the the meat has has denatured so much. And you don't want that. So uh uh uh using one of those the methods that you mentioned in order to speed it up if you really want some penetration and otherwise you know put put the flavors in the sauce. Right. I mean I tend to when I marinate I tend to you're right exactly I put acidic flavors and things like that in the sauce with rare exceptions and I put the functional ingredients for the w uh water holding capacity for proteins, salts and sugars and things like that, in the marinade or brine.
+
+[14:12] I mean that's typically what I do. Yeah, yeah, because salts are gonna get into the meat. Uh flavor molecules are much bigger. Salt breaks down into ions. They're they're tiny little particles that can move in and out of the meat pretty easily, but uh flavor molecules are not gonna do the same thing.
+
+[14:30] Right. Caleb has a question about smoking sausage. He purchased some cherry chipotle pork sausage. That's like a cherry chipotle it's got a ring to it there, right? And he's pretty excited about it.
+
+[14:40] With simply smoking the sausage as he would for a brisket or pork ribs, would that be a valid and delicious way to cook it? Well I don't see why not. Do you have any thoughts on that? No, sounds good to me and you know, get some cherry wood. I mean the the trick with the the smoking, right, I mean the the trick with any sort of sausage cookery is that uh when you're cooking off a sausage, uh typically what happens is you overcook the hell out of the sausage and you're relying on the high fat content of the sausage and hopefully the crafts you know the crafts you know person who made it making sure that there's enough fat in there such that it stays uh juicy even when it's overcooked.
+
+[15:15] Right. So if you can, I would try to control the smoking uh such that the sausage itself doesn't get much above one forty uh when you're doing it. And I think then you're gonna have like a really you know fantastic product. When we were cooking a sausage is what we'll typically do is is uh water bath them at one forty, which is sixty in Celsius land, and then uh and then grill them or fry them or pan them to get that nice, you know kind of crusty outside to it. So I think a lot of it is gonna be about the temperature control.
+
+[15:45] Yeah, no, I agree. I think the that's that's one of the the most common sins in the kitchen is overcooking sausages and losing all the I mean all that craftsmanship that that goes into mixing the the fat with the the meat just goes away the moment that you overcook it to the point that all the the juices are squeezed out. Yeah, what's the point, Ryan? Right? Yeah, yeah.
+
+[16:07] Just because it's a sauce tastes good, but right. Yeah, but just because it's a sausage doesn't mean you should mistreat it. You know what I mean? And it's so easy not to mistreat it, especially if you have a circulator on board. You know, you can just it make it makes life so easy.
+
+[16:19] Anyway, uh all right. So we're gonna go to our first commercial break. If anyone should be around listening, and it's remember, we're recording on Monday, not Tuesday. Call in your questions too, 718-497-2128, 718-497-2128 cooking issues. Nothing's new seeing the here before.
+
+[17:16] Watching the wedding. Every Sunday at 4 30 p.m., tune in to Burning Down the House. Architecture is the laser focus of burning down the house, a weekly discourse on all things built, destroyed, admired, and despised. Each week, Curtis B. Wayne, your host, invites a posse of authors, critics, builders, designers, and other architecture fiends to reflect on various topics related to perhaps the most functional of all art forms.
+
+[18:00] Again, that's every Sunday at 4 30 p.m. on the Heritage Radio Network. She's a mad eater. Hello, and welcome back to Cooking Issues. Call on your questions to 718-497-2128.
+
+[18:13] That's 718-497-2128. Curtis Wayne, host of the show, not to be confused with Wayne Curtis, noted rum scholar. Weird, huh? Uh Harold, you uh still with us? Yes, indeed.
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+[18:25] Beautiful, beautiful. All right. Um, so where were we? Uh we had a question. I will read it to you from Colin Gore.
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+[18:33] He uh uh often asks us questions, but this one is specifically for you. Harold, the sweet potato is a delectable amalgam of starch, pectin, sugars, and other components. This I know. This mixed composition of sweet potato guts makes it a very versatile tuber. What I'm fuzzy on is why adding some acid, let's say vinegar, to hot sweet potato puree improves the film forming properties of the puree upon drying.
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+[18:54] Without the vinegar, the film is glassy and brittle, but with the vinegar addition, the final film is essentially a kick-ass uh sweet potato fruit roll up. I saw a recipe for Ovulato, which calls for the addition of some vinegar to the simmering potato starch solution. So I assume that the vinegar modifies interacts with the starch in the sweet potato and other sweet potato components are just along for the ride. What is your hunch on what is being modified? Uh, and uh we'll we'll we'll hit that first.
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+[19:17] By the way, for those of you uh who don't know, uh the Ovulato is that uh I think that's how it's pronounced, I don't know. Those are those potato starch uh sheets that you can wrap things in. You can you can buy them, I think um, I forget where they're made. Are they made in Japan or Spain? I I don't know.
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+[19:31] I don't really use them, but that's what they are. Uh any any thoughts on this, uh Harold? You know, this is uh really interesting. I'm I need to play with this. Uh my guess is that uh he's right that uh it's an effect on the starch.
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+[19:45] You're you're getting uh some limited hydrolysis and that kind of plasticizes the starch so that when you dry it all the way down, you know, you've got some you've got more um uh small sugar uh molecules and small portions, small um pieces of starch that help soften the the film uh so that it can't form as uh as brittle as she does he describes. And uh probably the same thing is going on with the sweet potato. Normally starch uh I'm sorry, acidity um uh makes vegetable matter of various kinds uh harder uh by limiting the degree to which the um cell wall components can be removed. Uh but in this case it's the opposite uh effect. And because he's seen it in in a pure starch uh system, my guess is that he's right that that's what's going on.
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+[20:46] Right, but it seems strange that you would have uh hydrolysis with just a little bit of uh acid, you know. And uh uh conversely though, it's just not like a protein where you're shifting the you know, the isoelectric point by adding a little by shifting the pH a little bit and then radically changing its properties. It seems odd. Maybe he's adding a lot of acid. I don't know.
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+[21:05] What do you think? Yeah, well that's it. I d I don't uh get an idea here uh for how much acid is being added. Uh but you know it doesn't take a whole lot to uh uh to change the hydrolysis rate. You'll get you'll get hydrolysis of starch in in neutral water just from the water itself.
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+[21:26] So it might be that um uh just shifting the pH a little bit uh can can make a significant difference. So it's similar to adding a little bit of acid to a sugar boil when you're boiling it, it's gonna increase the breakdown if the longer you boil it the higher the breakdown. Yeah that's right that's right and yeah that's that's the other thing that's missing here is uh any sense of uh of timing you know how long it takes whether this happens kind of immediately or whether you have to kind of incubate it to let it happen. Right because any breakdown of the starch into shorter train chain uh you know uh sugars and dextrins and things like that is going to plasticize the the sheet somewhat right? Yeah yeah of course so with adding a multodextrin.
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+[22:05] But maybe you know this is easier I guess. Yeah that's true. If you uh if you add small uh small molecules uh as another ingredient then you could get the same effect without without the the acidity and without the flavor of vinegar and that that might be an interesting alternative. And vinegar is also an interesting choice because although that's for instance what I use in my candy boils and it's traditional it's a volatile acid so why you know it would be it's interesting that you would choose a volatile acid maybe as a self-limiting measure. I don't know.
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+[22:38] Mm-hmm. Yeah interesting because uh I'd also have to I I've never done a test of uh boiling vinegar testing the pH before and after and seeing how much of the vinegar the acidity is reduced by the boiling. Uh you know, once you recorrect for the uh liquid loss. Yeah, yeah. I've played around with that with that a little bit, uh not not really systematically, just kind of, you know, uh, with my left hand while I was doing something else, just to just out of curiosity.
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+[23:05] And it seems as though the the pH anyway is relatively constant, you know, as you as you boil it down, boil uh a five percent solution down, which surprised me. Because it should get more acidic, right? You'd think so, but but you as you as you say, you are boiling off um acetic acid as well as water as you boil. So it boil it basically you lost vinegar at almost the same rate as water. Right, right.
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+[23:32] Interesting. I mean I know for a fact that when you spray dry vinegar, you get the taste of vinegar but not the acidity, so you need to augment the acidity with a separate acid. When you're making, let's say, uh vinegar potato chips and you're and you're sprinkling um vinegar uh it powder which is sp spray dried with a multixtrin carrier, when you do that you have to add a uh supplementary acidity to get the acidity back to where you want it. Uh-huh. So I mean it's it's volatile enough.
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+[23:57] And then uh Colin's second question, because we have we have pumped your s your awesome walnuts on the on the show. So he has a question. Is there anywhere on the east coast that a fellow can find walnuts low in tannins and astringency? Is it merely a matter of harvesting walnuts in an immature state uh on uh San Giovanni's Day, as many Nochino recipes call for? I did not know that.
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+[24:18] Uh I don't know what species grow in Italy where those recipes originate. Um and and we have black walnuts locally. I'm interested in finding nearby sweet sweet nuts as yours are likely off limits. I would be delighted if you could enlighten us further on the matter. Alright, let's have the talk on walnuts.
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+[24:34] I don't think there's anything off limits about California walnuts. I think they'd love to sell more of them. Uh the the problem is finding uh a source on the east coast of the good stuff because, you know, that it ranges from good to not so good. And you can tell just by looking at the nuts uh how astringent they're going to be the lighter the seed coat uh the milder they're going to be um uh and of course you want to make sure by looking at them as well that they're fresh because that's going to be the other problem you know if they've been shipped across the country then who knows what kind of shape they're in once they get there. Uh immature walnuts are wonderful but they're nothing like um the walnuts we're talking about here they're they're wonderful crunchy they're not that astringent but boy you have to wear gloves in order to deal with them right stain the heck out of your hands right yeah yeah they they do have that the the fruits do do give you that wonderful kind of aroma uh that's nothing like a a standard you know dried walnut uh aroma but uh yeah it's a a completely different experience and a mess.
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+[25:39] Right well I try well I as a kid I used to play around with that stuff. That stuff does not come out of your hands. It just doesn't because we had a bunch of walnut trees around. But the um okay so at your house we tried the red walnuts which people are are pushing but those weren't the miracle nuts. They were nice they were good the red walnuts maybe you could say something about those but it was these uh very low astringency why don't they just why don't they just ship only that like what like is it more difficult to produce?
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+[26:06] Is it a tree by tree variation the same way it is with acorns? You know some acorns are more bitter than others uh and you just have to know the tree I mean um I don't really know much about walnut propagation. Is walnut clonal? Are these done by graft? Is it done by seed?
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+[26:20] Is it just lucky shots? Like, why isn't everyone and as a separate ancillary question, like why are California almonds so low in oil? Why why? Why do they grow them so low in oil? But in other words, like couldn't could they make all the walnuts this delicious and they just don't?
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+[26:34] I think so. I d I think it's m for the most part a matter of variety. And um uh you know, there's a particular guy I go to at the farmers market out here, who uh has several different batches. He's got red walnuts, he's got uh really light skinned walnuts, and he's got darker ones. Um and they're priced accordingly.
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+[26:56] The red ones are more expensive than the light ones, which are more expensive than the dark ones. And you know, you just you you can take your pick. We like the light we like the light ones best though, right? Yeah, because they have the uh uh just the the nicest flavor, the nicest nutty flavor. Um I think the reason though, uh the the red ones are awfully good.
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+[27:17] The red ones have instead of having tannins in the the the brown uh seed coat, they have um anthocyanins, the same pigments that give color to lots of fruits and vegetables, grapes, things like that. Um they're they're very delicious too, and they're not nearly as tannic as um uh as standard walnuts. Um I think the reason you didn't like them as much is that that batch of red ones wasn't as fresh as my batch of pale ones. Uh so they're just as walnut y. Yeah, yeah.
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+[27:50] No, they're they're delicious. Um all right. Well, I I stand corrected then on the on on the red nuts, but d what's this farmer's name? Do you know? I don't.
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+[27:59] I don't. Um I know it's on his truck, and I'm just not able to to pull it into memory at the moment. He's at the ferry market, the ferry tunnel market? Uh no, he's actually at the Alamanya farmer's market. Right.
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+[28:17] But why can't they why like is you think it's just freshness? It can't be. Like why why do they only why do they even grow the darker skin? Is it just easier? Yeah, I I think it's um and and it may be that it's just a matter of uh you know, farmers covering their bets.
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+[28:33] If they just m all grow the the same variety and there happens to be a problem with that variety, it's the old um you know monoculture problem. Um also I'm I'm just not exactly sure which variety is which here. It may be that this is a new one or it's an old one and it's not as productive. There m there might be all kinds of reasons for the the pr predominance of the darker, more tannic nuts. Right.
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+[28:58] I mean I really don't know much about walnut culture at all. I don't know how long it takes for a tree to come into bearing or I mean I know they bear for a long time, but I don't know kind of what the farm cycle is on a on a walnut tree. What why why are uh why are almonds from California so low in oil? Do they do that on purpose? Uh it's a good question.
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+[29:17] You and I tried to figure that one out. Why are uh uh almonds from California just not more delicious? And uh no offense, California. But they could I mean they're I mean, talk about uh tannic tough thick skins. Um uh they're there's no mistaking a uh California almond.
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+[29:38] Uh and I don't know, it again it may be a matter of uh agronomic yield rather than uh quality. Um I'll I'll look into that. I'll ask some questions. Because I would pay more for more in fact we do. We pay more for European almonds that are higher in oil and more delicious.
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+[29:55] Yeah. Yeah. Anyway. All right. Aaron writes in from Hull and he says he's going to be curing some bacon next week, and he intends to use uh Michael Rullman's uh charcuterie recipe for it, which is uh four four four hundred and fifty uh grams of salt to two hundred and twenty-five grams of sugar to fifty grams pink salt, pink salt.
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+[30:13] Uh I'm assuming he's using uh the instacure number one, which is uh nitrite, not a nitrate. You want to make sure that you know which pink salt you're dealing with. Uh and he's gonna cook coat the pork belly with some of this mixture and leave it in the fridge or freezer for uh some number of days before roasting it until it reaches an internal temperature of 65, etc. etc. Uh kosher salt is hard to come by where I live.
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+[30:35] Is sea salt like um malden a I think he means malden. It says more than here, but malden's a suitable substitute. Suitable but extremely expensive. Yeah. Um I mean the the the main thing you're gonna want to do uh is uh I mean I don't really think it makes it that much of a difference in the people have uh uh all these uh uh questions about w whether or not certain salts are bad for um for curing.
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+[31:00] It's true that sea salts probably have some sort of extra minerals in them, but I don't know what they add to the brining process. In pickles, it's extremely important not to use uh certain salts because they can discolor the pickle, but I don't know that it's a big deal in in a brine for a bacon. Do you, Harold? Uh I I don't think so. It I know that it is an issue in the curing of fish, white fish like cod, because uh the the calcium and magnesium salts can end up causing the the cod to yellow.
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+[31:28] But with a bacon that's not an issue. Right. Ham guys swear that the type of salt that they use makes a difference. In fact, I'm wearing a Finchfield Farms country ham hat right now. Um they say it makes a a difference, but I don't really know what the basis is.
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+[31:42] I I could go research. I have Fidel Toldra's book on dry cured meat products, and I could look into the effect of the different um salt components. But I am sure that you will be fine if your wallet allows you to use Malden uh then um then go ahead. Oh, maybe they meant uh Morton sea salt. Any sea salt's gonna work fine.
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+[32:00] Uh I would like to try a bacon cured with maple syrup for a friend. Should I just add some maple syrup to the freezer bag? I'm planning on doing this by eye until it's pretty evenly covered. Does this affect the curing process in any way that I should know? Well, you're gonna be doing a a wet cure in that, and you would substitute maple syrup for the water and sugar and then put salt into the maple syrup, I assume, right, Harold?
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+[32:19] That sounds right to me, yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Uh number three was how long should I leave the bacon to cure? I'm guessing the amount of time will be a function of the size, shape, weight of the meat I am curing.
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+[32:28] Could you give me some guidelines? Um I don't have any in my head. Um I believe that the charcuterie book, Michael Ruman's book, has some some guidelines in it. You can accelerate the cure by putting it in a vacuum bag, but usually penetration is based on the uh the actual strength of the brine you're using, which is crucial. So if you're gonna add water to it, like with maple syrup, that's gonna reduce the brine theoretical brine strength.
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+[32:50] And then on uh certain number of days for penetration, a certain number of inches into the meat, and it also is going to depend on the particular fat, um, the fat quantity in your piece of meat uh versus the lean. Do you have any anything on that, Harold? Uh no, that's that's about all I could come up with. Um there are charts in books uh and and uh as you say, um uh days per inch guidelines, uh and uh that's that's really the place to go. Yeah.
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+[33:21] And then lastly, uh he's just ordered a piece of equipment that'll allow him to try sous vide cooking at home. Congratulations. Uh would would uh he be better cooking in the pork belly this way after curing or not? If so, is there anything you should look out for using this method? Okay, uh I happen to love pork belly uh cure uh cooked uh sous vide, uh in which case you choose the temperature you want to cook in general.
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+[33:41] I would do something l below sixty-five, something like sixty-three, uh, sixty-two, sixty-three, even as low as sixty. It's gonna take uh that's Celsius, uh so one forty and up uh in that range. Um it's gonna take uh a long time, like like th three days, two, three days to get to tendered where you want, and then crisp up the skin. Uh oh, and I think s he asked uh later, should you leave the rind on? I would, wouldn't you?
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+[34:04] Yes. Yes, definitely. I would leave the rind on, and then I wouldn't trim it at all. I would crisp the skin up uh and serve it because that's the b that's the best part once it's crisp. Leave it on forever is what I would do.
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+[34:16] Gnaw it off. Yeah, it's gonna sound a little gross. You might want to trim away the the areas where the teats are just because they don't uh they don't fit the pan as well. The crucial thing when cooking a pork belly for later uh cooking is to compress it a little bit before you do so that you get a nice flat surface to pan the skin on to make it nice and crunchy. The other thing I've noticed, and Harold, I think we've talked about this before, is that when you have uh the pork belly isn't um one specific muscle, it's a it's a group uh of muscles.
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+[34:44] Yeah. And um some of them, the ones that are the streaky portion and streaky bacon, let's say, uh they um they respond very well to uh cooking for a long time, on the order of of several days. Uh there's one muscle that runs through the pork belly in that's uh that you can really see in the cut that's called in Chinese uh five fingers or five flour, whatever it is, pork. Uh one of those muscles doesn't respond very well to long cooking and gets mushy and and uh and kind of tastes kind of dry. And so uh it's it's a muscle that looks a little um oval as you cut through the pork belly.
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+[35:20] Uh and uh I would take it out uh you know and cook that some other way. Do you have you had that experience with pork belly? Or have you noticed? Yeah. Yeah.
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+[35:28] I mean, uh in uh no matter who's made it, yeah. If that muscle is in there, then it's it's just different from the others. Um kind of like uh the shoulder. There's so many different muscles that some of them are just wonderful and others are less so. Right.
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+[35:42] I would say, yeah, I would say different and worse. Yeah. All right. And with that, listen, if anyone's out there, you have one more chance to call in 718. We're gonna go to our next second commercial break.
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+[35:53] Call in 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues. Nothing is new, see you to hear before. Watching wedding. We should sit with you and you got a ride through the door.
+
+[36:57] Welcome back to Cooking Issues. 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. Our producer Jack was uh pumping up the Hall of Notes his particular song because he thinks it's nice rainy day weather, which it is here in Brooklyn, rainy. Uh I'll say one last time.
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+[37:13] You have uh a couple more days to go to Mofad.eventbrite.com to purchase tickets for the museum fundraiser. I'll tell you a little bit about what I'm doing uh at the at the end of the show. But right now, let's get back. We have Harold McGee on the phone. Hey, uh, would you consider the next time you're in town on a Tuesday to uh do the show live here at the studio?
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+[37:32] Yeah, I'd love to. Love to. Nice. Nice. I was I saw I saw uh our mutual buddy Nathan Mirvo this morning.
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+[37:39] Nathan's doing uh his uh book tour. He uh booked out Jean George restaurant in the morning and they cook some of the um some of the dishes from his uh cookbook, and uh he might be a phone-in guest at some point, which would be fun. Uh just pushing, you know, we have some some good some good guests, you know, coming like uh apparently Grant Aikitz is gonna is gonna be on the uh show sometime in uh in May, I think. Uh I think I guess to push the uh opening of the new place or what? I don't know.
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+[38:07] I don't know. I just I heard from uh from his publicist. Anyways, this is what's going on in Cooking Issues Land. All right. Uh now we have a question for you from Tom M.
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+[38:17] My question from Mr. McGee is Does extended brining denature the enzymes in beef responsible for tenderizing it? I wish to have a tender corn beef brisket and I've considered cooking it sous vide for 131 for 12 to 24 hours, shocking it in an ice bath, and only then brining it. But if brining does not denature the uh the tenderizing enzymes, then I might as well brine it for a couple of days, then do a hundred and thirty-one sous-vide um, followed by low temperature smoking, and only then do a high temperature sous-vide uh to get to collagen transforming temperatures for the appropriate length of time. Uh am I making things too complicated?
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+[38:50] And can I achieve it in a simpler manner? Well, I'll just I'll say two things before I hand it off to you, Harold. Uh one, um you don't want to shock, you never want to shock uh a protein like that uh after it comes out of the um out of the bath because if you do, you're um you're basically gonna uh prevent the the meat from reabsorbing some of the juices that have been expelled during the cooking, and even at 131 you're gonna get juices expelled. So you're not gonna you're not gonna want to do that. I'm also gonna say that I think that 131's a little low for a brisket.
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+[39:25] Um might want to I've looked I it's it's people do it all the time, very rare long long cookings like this. But I find that people, if they're expecting a cut of meat that is meant to be a little higher in temperature, it's better to go a little higher in temperature. Uh but with that, let me hand it off to you, Harold. Uh yeah, I'd I'd be interested to see what that's like, 131 brisket, but I have a feeling I'm gonna I'd prefer it at a higher temperature. Um and then uh on the issue of um brining denaturing the enzymes, uh, you know that uh I've actually never thought of that.
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+[40:02] I I know uh in pretty good detail what's happening to the uh fiber proteins during brining. And that's the the major effect of uh uh tenderizing effect of a brine on meat is that it it kind of unknits the uh the muscle fibers and makes them uh easier to cut through. Um I've never thought about whether the the salt conditions are gonna change the activity of the of the enzymes that do to some extent break down the collagen and the and the fiber proteins. Um and so that's something I'm gonna go look up when we're all done. I I have no idea.
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+[40:43] But but uh as a general principle uh you want to do the brining before the cooking not after the brining is only going to have its tenderizing moistening effects if you do it while the meat is raw. Right and also you can't cure cooked meat, right? I mean corn beef is cured somewhat so it's not gonna be cure cooked meat, can you? Uh yeah it's um again kind of an interesting uh counterintuitive sort of thing I I I think probably yeah what's gonna happen is that you will desiccate it uh but but the um uh the the meat is is cooked it's done and anything you do to it with salt afterwards is just gonna uh dry it out and make it salty. Right.
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+[41:29] Right. Um yeah it's interesting I never even thought about trying to brine something afterward but I mean corn beef typically you'd add some amount of uh nitrite to it wouldn't you? I mean it's pink usually right so it's been it's been pinked. It definitely won't pink out you're gonna have it look uh gray. Well you want it these temperatures at 131.
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+[41:47] I can't do the math in my head but that's somewhere in the mid fifties, right? 131 somewhere in the mid fifty Celsius. Um and you know we do our short ribs a lot in that range but find that people prefer them up n closer to one forty, uh between you know one forty and and and l and a little over. Um but I definitely don't think you need to go through like a million different steps. I think it's going to probably affect it you know like you the more steps the more chance for things to going wrong, things to dry out, things that for problems.
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+[42:19] What do you think? No, I agree. Um and if there's a a straightforward way to do it um it's always almost always the best way to do it. Yeah yeah. All right so in the uh those are the questions that have come in so good we have at least four five minutes we can uh what are you working on?
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+[42:38] Uh um I've actually been taking a little bit of a hiatus for a variety of reasons and um have not cooked uh anything serious in in like a month so uh uh but spring is coming and uh uh I'm sure that's gonna change fast. One thing I'm gonna do uh this coming weekend that I'm looking forward to is head off to uh Spain for uh a last meal at El Bui. 'Cause it's for real gonna be the last it's like real deal last now? Uh yeah. Apparently uh july thirtieth I think is the date now the restaurant will close uh as a restaurant and then reopen in the next day or two as a uh uh think tank.
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+[43:31] Right. So who are you going with? Um a chef out here in California named Daniel Patterson. I love Daniel Patterson. Yeah.
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+[43:40] Yeah his restaurant's great. Yeah. Uh and you know we worked uh together um you know, you know, we all did uh on uh Mandy Aftell's uh and his uh taste uh what was it called? Taste the s taste the smell. What was it called?
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+[43:53] Smell in the Glove? What was it? Alchemy was in there somewhere. Yeah, alchemy of alchemy of taste and smell. Yeah, yeah.
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+[44:01] You you have any uh any articles in the pipeline that you want to uh you want to let out of the bag or you want to keep them in the bag? No, in fact that's something else I've been taking a hiatus from. Uh but I'm hoping to get uh another curious cook column into the New York Times in uh about a month. Yeah, people crave it, but you don't know what you're gonna do yet. Uh actually it's gonna be about salt.
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+[44:21] Oh yeah? What about it? And y we like what kind of what kind of aspects? So many aspects of salt. Well, uh exactly that.
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+[44:28] Uh the the fact that there are now so many salts uh and some people say that they all taste different and that's uh for example kosher salt is uh horrible stuff, nobody should ever touch it. Um uh so I'm I've collected um probably close to twenty at this point, and um there there's been a very interesting controlled study with um uh professionally trained taste panel that actually tasted about twenty different salts to see if they could tell the difference. In uh in in what form? Uh a as a point eight percent solution to to try to maximize the opportunity to taste the difference because of course if you're gonna take salt and put it in mashed potatoes or something, odds are you're gonna have no clue. Right.
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+[45:19] And it's so this is an extension of uh of uh a project. Was it was it part of the Eriche things that Steingarden went to because he was doing it in a Ricci years and years ago in his first book on salts. Remember that? Uh that's right. In fact, uh I I remember that tasting very well.
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+[45:36] Um yeah, he he arrived with these little vials of uh of some of his favorite salts and some of his least favorites, and uh then we there was a sensory scientist who took play uh took part in the RHA meetings every year, and so he organized uh uh triangle test um where basically you're you're handed three little vials and you have to tell which one is different from the other two. And uh we we all took the test in a in a series of groups, and then they tabulated the results at the end, and it turned out that of the forty people in attendance, only one person was able to correctly distinguish all of the different salts. And was that a fluke or reliably, repeatedly was able to do it? Uh we only did it once. So it it may have been a fluke, but because that one person was Jeffrey Steingarten, of course it wasn't.
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+[46:33] That's hilarious. All right, so we'll be we'll be looking forward to that. And uh so uh I'll just say what I'm working on for the museum uh fundraiser coming up. I'm doing the amouse uh boosh. I we like to, you know, in the back room we always call it the amuse douche because I think it's a ridiculous word, amoose boosh.
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+[46:51] Uh anyway, uh so the uh yeah, the amuse douche will be um I gave myself food as medicine as my as my theme, because you know everyone has a theme, like Chang is do is doing uh pre-19, uh pre-uh 1491 uh food in in America. So he's doing oysters and acorns, uh Wiley's got caveman food, Mark Ladner Rome, you know, etc. etc. So I gave myself food as medicine, and uh I'm using uh an ingredient uh I'm using uh okay, so it turns out that uh bitumen, you know bitumen, you know, like uh like uh pitch, piss asphalt, yeah. Uh huh.
+
+[47:25] Uh it's exuded uh in uh in the Dead Sea area and in Iran and has been used as a medicine for centuries as has a very similar um exudate pitch exp uh exudate um from the uh him Himalayas called uh shilajid right and so which is used in in Aravedic medicine a lot should the Shilajid is. And so this was mistranslated by um uh from the Arab because Arab you know Arab medicine was the medicine in the you know eight nine hundreds in that range right so this was mistranslated by medieval scholars in uh in like the 11th century as uh because the word in Arabic is mummii like like m like sounds like mummy and in fact the word English word for mummy is derived from the same root of like this waxy pitch bitumen our word comes from it uh anyway it mistranslated this uh medicinal ingredient mummy as ground up uh human cadavers from Egyptian mummies and here started the trade in medicinal mummies so mum mummies were ground up by the boatload and sold in apothecaries all over uh all over Europe and in fact um they ran out of uh reliable mummy supplies so they would uh make counterfeit mummies by grinding up and and and you know but taking fresh cadavers drying them out and grinding them up and so the original pitch right which was the the part that the uh the bitumen which wasn't actually in an authentic mummy because they didn't use bitumen until very late in the mummification uh process uh because it was cheap you know they used much more expensive stuff right uh but uh so it it got it it changed from the bitumen being the important part of the medicine to the actual corpse. So then it got transmogrified even more so that later on it was found that if someone died very suddenly uh in the prime of life, then that's the best mummy that you can get. So like for for centuries, up until um I mean the the prime time was like 16th and 17th century, was prime mummy medicine time. Um but it extended for a long time.
+
+[49:22] Plus, mummy was used as a pigment up until the early 20th century. The mummy was a specific color of brown made by grinding up mummies. Uh and so uh and but it's come full circle again. Also spawned like vampire legends, all sorts of cool, weird, weird, weird, weird stuff, which I think I'm gonna write about uh for the blog, definitely, maybe for somewhere else. And uh so I I've located uh a source of the uh shilajit, which is the one from the Himalayas that's used in Aerovag medicine.
+
+[49:49] And uh so I'm gonna have that as mummy. I'm gonna put that on to uh rhubarb that I'm gonna cook uh sous vide because uh Francis the First of uh France uh always carried with him mummy and rhubarb as uh some of his uh medicaments to uh help him from whatever ailed him. So that's gonna be one component is mummy, mummy and rhubarb, and the next uh component is gonna be uh when he was uh defeated by Charles V he was held captive, and the zupa alapavese was invented for uh for him at that capture, which is basically bread with uh an egg that's cooked by broth that's put into a shavings of parmesan. So I'm gonna do a little toast with uh a gelee of broth, a uh slow uh done, well not really slow, but low temperature done uh quail egg and uh parmesan twilight. And so the other two components you will have to come to the uh fundraiser to taste to tomorrow.
+
+[50:43] Anyway, so I'm gonna uh thank Harold for being on the show. Uh, hopefully we'll get you in live next time you're in. Hopefully, we'll talk to you soon. And we'll leave you with mummies cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[51:02] You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening. And the guests can't get it straight.
+
+[51:31] The following is a public service announcement from the Museum of Food and Drink. Dave Arnold and Patrick Martins have gathered a team of New York's most innovative chefs and bartenders to create a nine-course fundraiser lunch at Del Posto, Sunday, March 27th. Their intent to kick start the greatest food museum in the world. The menu for this unprecedented event is derived from educational themes of the museum. Chefs will draw inspiration from sources outside their normal sphere.
+
+[51:57] How will a cutting-edge chef handle the Paleolithic or a dish only using pre-Columbian ingredients? What will a modern Italian chef do with ancient Rome? The chefs include David Chang of Omufuku, Wiley Dufrain of WD50, Mark Ladner of Del Posto, Nils Norrin of the French Culinary Institute, Cesare Casella of Salumaria Rossi, Carlo Moraci of Robert's, Brooks Headley of Del Posto, and Christina Tozi of Momofuku Milk Bar. Bartenders include Audrey Sanders of Pegu Club, Thomas Waugh Death Company, Simon Ford of Perneau Ricard, Damon Bolti of Prime Meats, and Evan Clem of VR Guest Restaurants. Proceeds from the event will directly support the Museum of Food and Drink.
+
+[52:38] Tickets are very limited and $250 dollars per person. To purchase tickets, please visit Mofad.eventbright.com. That's M-O-F-A-D.com. Once again, M-O-F-A-D.com. Sponsored by Frenell Record, Heritage Foods USA, Pat Lafrey to Meets, Barter House Wines, Delposto Restaurant.
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+[0:09] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. I'm Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues here with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez in our studio in Bushwood, Brooklyn, behind Roberta's Pizzeria. Coming to you live today, as we should be doing every Tuesday from 12 to 1245. Call in all of your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128.
+
+[0:30] Today's show is brought to you by the Hearst Ranch. Hearst Ranch is the nation's large sorry. Hearst Ranch is the nation's largest single source supplier of free range, all natural, grass-fed and grass finished beef. Since 1865, the Hearst family has raised cattle on their rich, sustainable native grasslands of the central California coast. The result is beef with extraordinary flavor that's as memorable and natural as the surrounding landscape.
+
+[0:50] For more information, go to www.hearstranch.com. That's www.hearstranch one word dot com. We've had their beef, right, Nastasha? We enjoy it. Later on, I'm gonna give a shout out to some of our other uh sponsors on previous shows because they were also sponsors of the amazing event for the Museum of Food and Drink that we just finished on Sunday.
+
+[1:11] Nastash and I are still recovering. Uh but we'll uh we'll get to that probably a little later in the show. We'll take some questions first. It came in on the emails. Um okay.
+
+[1:22] Uh Chris Beer writes in and says, I was hoping you could help with a question. When I'm making breads, pizza doughs, etc. I sometimes like to replace about half the white flour with whole wheat flour, but the dough tends to be dry. Is there a standard ratio of extra fat or liquid that need uh needs to be used when using whole wheat flour? Thanks for the help, Chris Speer.
+
+[1:38] Okay, now this is a problem I think that we all run into uh a lot when we're using whole grain items. There's actually several problems that happen. One, uh the dough t the uh breads tend to be drier. That's true. Uh same with uh things like pancakes and muffins, things tend to be drier.
+
+[1:53] Uh the second problem is you tend to have reduced uh volume, so they're they're denser, so they're denser and drier, and also more crumbly. These are three things that we in general don't enjoy in our breads and pizza doughs, correct? Correct. Correct. So um so what's the problem here?
+
+[2:09] The problem is in whole wheat flour uh you get the uh bran and also the germ actually in whole wheat flour. Now the germ actually helps out a bit in some ways because it provides oil. The reason a lot of oil is added to whole wheat uh recipes, oils and fats, is because it tends to soften uh fats in general, tend to soften the texture of uh breads so it they feel softer, they don't feel as dry just by adding oil. So you can add that stuff at your discretion, but um the other really good thing you can do to make up for uh two things that you can do to make up for lack of volume and also for dryness is to take the whole wheat portion because he's gonna take about half and half whole wheat and white, well, you know, white flour, uh, is to take the whole wheat flour and hydrate it in all the liquid first and let it sit there for a long time. Um what happens is is that even though the a good chunk of the bran of the fiber in bran is uh not soluble, i.e.
+
+[3:02] the wall it's not going to dissolve in water. Um there is a bunch of stuff in there that is soluble in water, will hydrate, but need some time to do it. And um, the more other stuff you have, the more like the rest of the white flour is there when the liquid is present, the less water is going to be available to soak into the whole wheat portion. So what you should always do with whole wheat products, and and I do this with pancakes. For instance, I my pancakes at home are uh well over half non uh non-white flour.
+
+[3:31] I I throw in wheat germ, I throw in a good bit of like uh oatmeal, and I throw in uh a bunch of cornmeal and a bunch of other things like this, and uh whole whole whole green. And um I add all of the buttermilk uh at at the very outset, along with the eggs, because they're liquid ingredients, and then I let them soak for minutes at a time in a very high liquid environment. And this helps hydrate them and prevents it from being dry. Um that you know, it that should also improve your um it should improve the the the the not only the moistness but also the the volume somewhat. The other thing is is that you're gonna tend to want to add a little bit more liquid when you have a high fiber uh uh product because the the dough is gonna probably take on more liquid.
+
+[4:10] Uh one source I read, which is the wheat flour and the high fiber uh ingredient handbooks from the Egan Press series, and I highly recommend the Egan Press series uh to all of the people out there. It's a very very easy to read, very short, not so expensive books on technical issues such as hydrocolloids, starches, uh high fiber ingredients, wheat flour, emulsifiers, very good stuff. I mean, you can skip the colorance book because most of us aren't adding a lot of food coloring to things, at least I don't. Um but you can you can either buy these books for like 68 bucks or something a pop, or it used to be, and I'm sure there probably still is. If you go to the American Association of Cereal Chemists website, you can sniff around there, it takes a while because they bury it.
+
+[4:51] You can buy a subscription to get online versions of all of these books, which you can then download. And back when I did it, it was 99 bucks, it's probably more. You get a year subscription to their website, and I downloaded all of their books. So I own them all on PDF and they're they're chilling happily on my uh iPad where I can peruse them at my leisure. Anyway, those are the sources I went to.
+
+[5:09] So you should um pre-soak, um, add a little more water. Um, and if you're dealing with a bread and and you've gotten rid of the dryness problem by the pre-soaking, add a little more water, adding oil at your discretion, you can uh further increase the volume of it, which is gonna decrease your perception of it being crumbly and whatnot, uh, by adding uh a little bit of vital wheat gluten. If you add a little bit of that, it'll counteract some of the problems you have. There's two things that go on when you add uh high fiber um brand laden things to breads. One uh in terms of gluten.
+
+[5:39] One, uh there's less overall gluten because the flour that you've added, instead of adding flour that has whatever percentage gluten it is, you've added a bunch of bran, which has zero percent gluten. Second thing that happens is that the uh brand and the fibers actually inhibit the formation of the gluten network. So what gluten is there is actually weakened. Um so you end up with a with a very low uh air holding capacity compared to white flour. And one of the ways to counteract that is to um you're gonna probably have to develop it longer, that means mix it more.
+
+[6:09] And you're probably also gonna have to uh add a little bit of uh weak gluten if you want to jack that that loaf back up to where where it used to be. All right, how's that? What was that? How's that was that okay? That was good, dude.
+
+[6:19] All right, see? Back on track after last week's non live. Although I, you know, I s last week we did the uh we did a Nathan Mirvold, uh, you know, Nathan Mirvold's amazing uh you know, eight million page book that weighs 35,000 pounds and costs like 600 bucks, so you get it on Amazon for 450. Um anyway, so he's doing his like little he's doing his press junket thing, and so we had to do one on Tuesday where we basically did uh we did uh what was it, proseco and uh clarified grapefruit juice that was carbonated, and then we'd show the glasses of liquid nitrogen. So that's why we couldn't be here uh last week on Tuesday.
+
+[6:52] So unfortunately, even though we had like our heavy hitting guest Harold McGee on the line, it was on Monday, so not a lot of you I think got to call in, so I'm I'm sad about that. Um but anyway, so we're back on our normal time today, thank goodness. Okay. Got a question in uh saying, I saw this uh, hey Nastashian David starts. I saw this pig uh stuffed pig trotter on Ideas and Food blog.
+
+[7:15] It looks incredible. And uh I'll I will read the description of the night. Ideas and food, by the way, there they're our friends, Alex Talbot Nacke, uh uh over at Ideas and Food, and they're probably the best known blog on kind of modern techniques and high-tech uh cooking, right? Wouldn't you say so? Yeah.
+
+[7:30] I saw him last week at an event also, another one of these Nathan Miravold events at uh Jean Georges restaurant, and uh it was funny. Uh Ideas and Food also has a cookbook out now. Um I think it's doing doing fairly well. But it's a the funny part was this. I think it retails for like 20 bucks, and it's on Amazon for like 14 bucks, right?
+
+[7:47] So I see Alex, I'm like, hey, how's the cookbook doing? And he was upset that I didn't have a copy yet. So I think I think he's sending us one, which is nice. But he said, yeah, on if you go to buy the modernist cuisine cookbook, the 450 cookbook, they uh they give you his book for like five bucks. Like if you if you buy it together, it's like five bucks extra to get Alex Talbot's book.
+
+[8:06] So here's a word out to you guys. Anyone out there buying uh the modernist cuisine, please do Alex Talbot a favor and click in the extra five bucks to to get his book uh along with it. So uh Alex Nathan Miravald and I had a good long laugh about this, and uh Alex and I were joking that we're just gonna take a Sharpie to his entire stock of books and write seven as like the seventh volume of the Modernist Cuisine book and just ship it along with it. Way! It's only five bucks extra.
+
+[8:30] You know, that's really a drop in the bucket. Let's like pissing in the ocean to raise the tide, you know, an extra five bucks. Anyways, go out and buy Alex's book. So uh here's what they Alex Nacke's book, I should say. I'm apologize.
+
+[8:41] Here's what it says. Pictured here is the rear trotter from the pig. The force meat is flavored with Ross Alhun and an exotic morotic maraudic spice blend. We added meat from the shoulder, knuckles, and ankles, and just for that extra uh special something, a few foie gras pieces. We added a touch of activa, that's meat glue for all of you non-meat glue people out there, as insurance to bind everything together.
+
+[8:58] Unfortunately, our finished trotter was too large for our vacuum bag, so we divide it into two pieces. This allowed us to present the whole foot and fortuitously gave us another piece to enjoy as seconds. Okay, so uh stuffed pig strotter, right? The most famous uh oh, sorry. And and the question about this was he saw it and he wants to know how long to cook it and at what temperature if he's gonna do it low temperature.
+
+[9:18] Uh and he says somewhere in the area of 60 to 65 degrees Celsius for 48 to 72 hours. And do I have any advice? I think your numbers are good. Uh I don't think you're gonna 60 to 65 Celsius, in other words, I think are good. I I would do something between 60 and 63 Celsius myself, 62, 63.
+
+[9:35] Uh I don't think you're gonna need to cook it for 48 to 72 hours. And here's why. I think a lot depends on on what size pieces of meat you put into it. The classic uh pig shrotter that you know I grew up knowing about is uh a delicacy, a New Year's E uh New Year's Eve delicacy from Modena, Italy, called Zampone. And zimpone, what they do is they uh they take a pig's trotter and you bone it completely out, take out all the meat and and take off the toenails, and you do it by slowly turning the skin of the pig's foot inside out and removing the uh the the bones, meat, and you know, all of the connected tissue stuff as you go, so that you basically have the pig's foot as a glove almost, right?
+
+[10:15] Uh you then take that zampone, they the the pig's foot that's you know been to totally denuded, right? Do that raw, by the way, otherwise the pig skin's gonna be too fragile, it's gonna break apart on you. And um take that raw and then uh stuff it with a mix that's uh that the sausage is called cotequino. If you just have the the meat by itself without the pig's foot, it's called cotequino. And then you uh that's typically cooked, uh boiled, and then served with lentils on New Year's uh lentils for luck, because it represents money.
+
+[10:42] So uh the problem with doing this in the US is that the pig's uh trotters are slit typically when they when they get the pigs, the pig's trotters are slit, and so they don't hold uh the filling as well. But if you have meat glue, you can kind of fix all these problems. And if you look in a Chinese butcher shop, you can get pigs' feet that haven't been slit like the regular American style, and you can make a good zamponi. As long as the um meat is finely divided, you don't need to cook it that long. The length of cooking time really is to gelatinize the starch in the in the pig's foot.
+
+[11:11] And so you can do it by feeling how long it's taking the this the uh gelat and the collagen and the pig's foot to break down because the meat on the inside is finely chopped and it's not going to be that much of a problem. So I don't think it should take as long as uh 72 hours, but you know, you you can give it a try. I would just, as a test before you went through the whole thing, just throw a piece of pig skin into a bag and test how long it takes for it to get to the texture you want. Um, and that's gonna give you uh a good idea. But uh go research.
+
+[11:39] Zamponi is cooked for a long time, like they boil for like like two to four hours, so um at at simmering temperatures. So give it a shot. Um and I think it would be delicious in a bag because you wouldn't be leaching the flavor out to the broth. Anyway, I hear we have a caller. Caller, you are on the air.
+
+[11:53] Hi, Dave. Howdy. This is Michael Natkin. Um I have a question for you about caramelization in a pressure cooker. Alrighty.
+
+[12:02] So I got to see Nathan Mirvold speak a few times lately, and I haven't gotten to look at the book yet, but he gave sort of a partial recipe for making a caramelized root vegetable soup in the pressure cooker where you don't add any water at all. Right. So you chop up some carrots, you throw them in the pressure cooker or cook at high pressure for thirty minutes and they come out uh very uh smooth, easy to puree, and caramelized. And it it works great, it's delicious. But I don't understand why it's working.
+
+[12:27] Um he refers to it as caramelized, right? Not as myard. That's right. He refers to it as caramelized, and I wouldn't think there's enough protein in carrots to do myard reactions, but maybe I'm wrong about that. That's interesting.
+
+[12:40] Uh I saw him speak a couple of times. I had the dish. Um and uh were you at the Jean George? Which event were you at? No, I was at the book launch in Seattle and also he came to speak of my work a couple of times.
+
+[12:51] Right. Um that's an interesting question, because uh uh like you, I wouldn't consider I've done some experiments with uh caramelization in pressure cookers, but most of them were done in very high concentration sugar syrups. Right. So I would throw uh fruits into high concentration sugar syrups and then pressure cook those and got definite caramel like caramel flavors. Like uh and and this and it in the I did this because I did some experiments with durian, removing kind of the stench from durian, and one time uh a bunch of the juices went to the bottom of the of the pressure cooker and were at the exact proper temperature to form a caramel without burning.
+
+[13:32] And then was never never ever able to reproduce it, unfortunately. But then I started doing like caramelized bananas and other caramelized fruits and high sugar syrups. I don't know why you would get uh caramelized flavor in a non i you need look t w as we both know you need a high enough temperature to um unl unless unless caramelization happens at lower temperatures under pressure, which is possible. Right. So I was wondering if that could be the case.
+
+[13:58] And then the other thing I had noticed is that fructose caramelizes at a lower temperature, and there is some fructose in carrots, so that could be a possibility. Right, and you don't uh and I don't know, does he add acid to the recipe? In which case you would get inversion. No, you don't add anything at all. Yeah.
+
+[14:13] And and it really, you know, it definitely has a clear caramelized flavor. And then the other the other question I had about that, because I I put this recipe on my website, you know, with the various things that I put in it to make it a nice little moose boosh, and people are concerned about the safety. Now I didn't have any problems at all in my electric cooker. But that's temperature regulated. And I got a little concerned.
+
+[14:32] Well, if I tell somebody to do this on a stove top pressure cooker without any liquid added, is there is there any risk that's being created there? Well, okay, I s oh you know what? That's also maybe true. You're gonna get localized much higher temperatures. Yeah, right.
+
+[14:45] That's another possibility. Yeah. I mean, you won't in an electric, but in a uh in a gas, you will. I asked him I was in one of the dinners in Seattle, and I personally asked him about this. I said, Will this work in a gas-fired pressure cooker on the stove?
+
+[14:59] And he said, Yes. Uh I I looked around at the pressure cookers that he uses. Uh he has uh an American canner, one of the big ones, although I doubt he uses this for that recipe because it takes so longer for the flong for those to get up to pressure. I think he has uh he has a bunch lying around. I'm sure he's got some coon recons because they're awesome.
+
+[15:17] Uh and he can afford it. You know, um it's a it's an interesting question. Uh I don't think it's gonna be a safety issue because I mean there's no there's no safety issue because the the worst that's gonna happen is you're gonna scorch the heck out of your um out of your vegetables. Right. Right.
+
+[15:32] And because what'll happen is is that uh the only danger really in a pressure cooker is that you're gonna build up pressure and the pressure relief valves are gonna continue to work no matter what. And there's three different overpressures on that thing. Right. The the the gaskets themselves are good up to about five hundred and so degrees, and so the plastic will be melting off of the unit before the uh gaskets go on you. And even if the gaskets were gonna melt, like they're not made out of vitamin or something that's gonna decompose into a toxic deadly gas.
+
+[16:01] So uh yeah, if we if any one of those things weren't true, like if for some reason someone decided to move to Viton SEALs, you know, I don't know if they had an excess of money and a lack of good sense, like there might be a safety issue, but I think you could basically just melt the pot down on the stove without without too much of a safety issue. Okay. Um but I I'm uh you've now I don't know why I wasn't observant enough to uh ask that question at the time. Uh I I myself don't own a copy of the book. There is one in the school, so I can go go look at it.
+
+[16:29] Unfortunately, right now, as I'm sure if you heard him speak, there's a dearth of the books in the country. You know, they're you know, he likes to say they're literally uh like they're literally on a boat, uh, you know, on a slow boat from China, like quite literally. I know. I have my my my order, uh I keep looking at Amazon waiting for the you know, my date keeps moving out. So I mean he donated he donated a book to uh the museum's auction that we had, and uh he's like, but you know, I'll donate it, but you're not gonna have it there live because they just don't they don't exist.
+
+[16:56] You know, it's kind of like uh it's unbelievable. I think he's actually gonna make money off this thing. I know, I know. Well, they've already you know started a second printing, so that's pretty incredible. Yeah, second printing of 25,000.
+
+[17:06] That many. Yeah. Unfortunately, the paper they're printing on, the first paper was Japanese, and they were not able to reach the company on the phone after the uh tsunami, and so they're they went with a Chinese paper the second time around. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[17:21] Uh anyway, uh th thanks for calling in. We hope to hear from you again soon. Okay, thanks, Dave. All right. So I guess we should go to our first commercial break.
+
+[17:28] This is cooking issues. Call in all of your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues. One that's done are the big two sent out to bear. Things to go to if you are going anywhere.
+
+[18:02] It's the truth that the truth makes us so alive. Stand all the things you want all real. You have you to complete, and that is the deal. Stand. There's a midget standing tall.
+
+[18:52] And the giant beside him about the fall. Tune in to Burning Down the House. Architecture is the laser focus of burning down the house. A weekly discourse on all things built, destroyed, admired, and despised. Each week, Curtis B.
+
+[19:18] Wayne, your host, invites a posse of authors, critics, builders, designers, and other architecture themes to reflect on various topics related to perhaps the most functional of all art forms. Again, that's every Sunday at 4 30 p.m. on the Heritage Radio Network. Oh, welcome back to Cooking Issues. Calling your questions to 718-497-2128.
+
+[19:42] That's 718-497-2128. Stand. There's a midget standing tall and a giant beside him about to fall. I have not heard that song in a long time. But that is one hardcore butt-kicking tune.
+
+[19:53] It's kind of a in my head, there's a race between at their funkiest, kind of who's the funkiest human of all times. And sometimes I think it's Sly and the Family Stone. Sometimes I think it's James Brown. And sometimes I think it's Stevie Wonder. And then every once in a while, when I'm in a special weird mood, I'll crank up the house quake and think Prince might be one of the funkiest human beings of all time.
+
+[20:14] I'm my brain's my brain's all messed up today. Anyway, I appreciate the Sly and the Family Stone. Uh before I leave the um Pig Trotter entirely, I didn't completely answer the question. Uh they the there was more stuff. Any other things to keep in mind?
+
+[20:28] Do you think I need transglutaminase or will the trotter hold together well enough on its own? Uh thank you. And we rock apparently, Stasi, which I did not know, which I'm glad to hear. And he was also digging the Hall Notes, but Nastasha decided they're going to switch it up. So we had two weeks of Hall Notes, and now we're gonna we're going to Sly and the Family Stone this week.
+
+[20:45] Um, I don't think you're gonna need the transglutaminase if you use a ground meat that's been bound by mixing it with salt, like you would a traditional sausage, unless there's a lot of damage to the actual skin of the pig's trotter itself. If you're using large chunks of meat, as they did in the ideas and food uh picture, then I think a little activa meat glue would help bind the thing together. I think uh just the fact that you're gonna put it into a vacuum bag, or if you don't have a vacuum bag, roll it in plastic is gonna also help keep it together while it's poaching. Uh and so I don't think you're you're gonna have too much of a problem, but hey, it couldn't hoit, especially if you're going to do any sort of post-searing to it uh to you know that it to crisp up the outside skin, which I don't think is actually traditional, is it? You don't tr uh the Zamponi?
+
+[21:29] I don't know. I don't know whether you traditionally would uh do it because I've only ever done it in my house. I've never had it out. You know what I mean? I've only ever made it myself.
+
+[21:35] Um anyway, so uh hope that I've almost forgot to finish asking that question. Okay. Now, uh we have another question. Uh and I probably should have saved this one uh for for last because it's in c it's got some gross stuff in it. So me and my answer has some gross stuff in it.
+
+[21:51] Uh I work for a French Chef who says uh you cannot digest tomato skins. He claims they pass undigested through your digestive tract. Can you please look into this, Mike? PS, you may this is referring to the blog now. PS, you may as well remove the forums that has been taken over by Spam Bots and you ignore the posted questions.
+
+[22:08] Okay. I'm first gonna answer the the the PS on that. Mike, we are aware of the problem of the spam bots, and I am personally aware of my non-responsiveness problem. Uh as for the spam bots, we are we are basically uh trying to get to position where we can have our webmaster give control of the forums to a few of our trusted members like Barzelay and whatnot. Uh and I want them to clean it up.
+
+[22:33] I want the forums to stay alive. It's uh hard for me to check uh all that stuff. It's recently because of all the stuff I've been working on, hard enough for me to uh time in a timely fashion answer all the blog questions, which I'm pledged to do. I will eventually answer every single question posted on the blog. But the forums are getting tough to me.
+
+[22:51] I hope to keep them useful and eradicate the spam bots, and to that end, we are going to give control of those forums to some of the loyal forum folks. We're just waiting for our webmaster to get back from his vacation with his vacation. Not vacation from work. Uh plus he's got a new baby. And uh and so anyway, we're we're on it and we apologize.
+
+[23:11] Um as for the second question, I think we might have a call in, so I might answer the second part of the question later. Is that true, Jack? Do we have a call? No. No?
+
+[23:20] Okay. So I will answer that question. Um it is true that tomato skins can pass uh undigested through your digestive tract. There's two main kinds of fiber that we have, right? There's insoluble fiber and soluble fiber.
+
+[23:33] Soluble fiber, things like pectin, they go through uh they go through, you know, the a lot of your digestive tract un undigested, but then get digested by bacteria because they're water soluble in your in your large intestine, uh, and that's things like pectin, right? Then there's uh insoluble fiber that's basically not water soluble at all and doesn't get damaged by bacteria and basically pass through your intestine un un undigested, we'll say, right? And there's a lot of insoluble fiber in tomatoes, like so. Some things that are insoluble fiber are hemicellulose and lignin. So tomato skins have a lot of that in it.
+
+[24:07] And I was I was checking basically what we have a caller now? Alright, I'll come back and finish this question because it's gonna take a while. Caller, you're on the air. Hi, Dave. Uh, just a quick question.
+
+[24:17] I I just recently learned about uh salt risen bread. Salt rising bread. Yeah, apparently it's uh bacterial action that leavens it or something. But it made me think about I had a another question. What how come there's such a difference between like soda breads, you know, uh chemically leavened breads and yeast breads?
+
+[24:37] Like yeast breads are more Is that just the gluten formation? From the yeast, or I mean gluten. They're fun, they're fundamentally different, right? So a uh a a yeast a yeast one, the volume is is provided by the uh the aeration uh of the yeast that it happens uh inside of an already formed uh network with gluten, right? Whereas a quick whereas a quick bread you could it is not gluten dependent.
+
+[25:01] It's not relying on on gluten um for its uh structure. I mean it helps, obviously, right? Uh and and toughens it. But yeah, they're fundamentally different. So f finish out your finish out your question there.
+
+[25:14] I was just that was just a uh a musing in my head. So there's just less gluten formation with uh the chemically leavened or I mean, because I mean yeast breads, it's like almost stringy and chewy, you know, when you pull them apart. But uh soda breads, they just crumble. You know, there's not that uh Right. I don't know.
+
+[25:34] Right. I mean look, it's certainly possible to do yeast uh so for instance, it's not the yeast itself. So when you take um Okay Well All right, there's there's a bunch of stuff going on. If it's only yeast, you're not gonna probably get that much of a pH change. If you if you're yeast plus bacteria, you're gonna get uh a radical pH shift, which is gonna also affect the gluten, make it slacky with that sourdough y kind of texture, right?
+
+[25:59] So have you ever made have you ever made overnight yeast pancakes? Uh no. Yeah. So you'd make like a regular pancake battery you add yeast and you let the thing go overnight, and then in the morning you also usually add a secondary leavener and you make it, and it's got that great yeasty taste, but it still basically has the texture of a pancake, but it is more like a crumpet at that point. Like it's got that weird kind of bubbly, airy thing in it.
+
+[26:20] Um they're fundamentally different in that a quick uh uh uh a yeast leavened bread, right, relies on either a gluten formation, gluten network, or some sort of other air trapping network like pentazans and a rye bread, something like that, right? It's relying on a structure to hold the air because the air is being produced, well the or the not the air, the CO2 really is being produced over a long period of time before pre-baking. Uh whereas the chemically leavened breads are relying on it on a quick source of aeration that happens at or close to the time of baking. Um either through an acid base reaction or through the heat decomposition of uh the product into you know salts and CO2. So uh for instance, you could probably add a uh chemical leavener to a I've never done it though, to a gluten raised, I mean to a to a high gluten thing to see what happens.
+
+[27:17] But I think it's just fundamentally a difference in dose structure. Okay. Does that make sense? Very cool. You think you think I'm right?
+
+[27:24] Someone will call in. If I'm not right, someone will call in. And I've never made uh salt salt rising bread. Uh have you ever have you ever tried it? I I tried it, yeah.
+
+[27:32] That's and it was also kind of crumbly like um, you know, soda bread and stuff. That's but uh yeah, I was just wondering if you had any knowledge or experience on that. What was the technique? Was it was it was it needed a lot or no? No idea.
+
+[27:45] I just I mean, I saw it at this festival and I got a loaf and I tried it, and I'm like, well, that's interesting. And I Wikipedia'd it and that's about it. Alright, so uh so Nastasha, put that on our list of things to uh you know, that's something I wish McGee, I'm sure has tried that a bunch of times. Anyway, so we'll we'll we'll try to look into it. If my memory serves me, which it's doing less and less these days, I will uh you know, yeah, because tomorrow's my fortieth birthday, so my brain is starting to to fester.
+
+[28:09] Happy birthday. Oh, thanks, thanks. So uh yeah, so uh uh next time I speak to McGee, I'm gonna try and get him on that, and we'll try to include that on our list of things to research. Yeah, I meant to call you uh last week. Sorry about that.
+
+[28:14] Yeah, no problem, no problem. Oh yeah, because you know what? We actually get a lot of a lot of our interesting ideas come out of questions like this. So we're definitely gonna look into it. Thanks, thanks so much for the call.
+
+[28:29] No problem. All right. Now, back to tomato skins. Um I forget where I left off, so there might be some overlap. So uh there's a lot of uh hemicellulose and things like that, hemicellulose and lignin being two of the primary insoluble fibers.
+
+[28:41] And they pass through your system relatively unscathed, especially if they're not masticated, i.e. chewed or blended, right? So, yes, you can see tomato skins in in um your poop. But um they uh they're not in any way, they're not in any way harmful. Uh I looked up uh unfortunately my uh the person who's uh internet access to all of the good scientific journals that I've been stealing for years, their password changed, and I haven't been able to get the new password yet.
+
+[29:10] So I'm I'm uh I'm kind of out in the dark as regards my usual ability to research things on the internet. It's kind of pathetic. I'm f I'm 40 years old and I'm stealing somebody's password to get to uh to scholarly articles. It's kind of like the equivalent of of living in my mom's basement. But uh no offense to anyone you know living in their mom's basement.
+
+[29:31] What? Offense. Well, Nastash says offense. I don't. Anyway, so but one of the articles I was able to find was change in the bioability, vi bioavailability of the proteins and tomato processing wastes from 1996 that point to the fact that the tomato uh pro tomato pulp uh tomato skin and seeds are relatively undigestible.
+
+[29:48] And a relatively new one um by uh in came out in 2010 uh by uh Garcia Herrera, that where they measured it and they said there's a relatively high percentage of insoluble fibers in uh tomato uh peel tomato skin. And so yeah, it's gonna pass through. Uh now here's the problem. There's a bunch of people out there, and this is what you if you search tomato skin, you're gonna come up along on this website called Cure Zone. And uh what a good chunk of these people on cure, and I don't know anything about the Cure Zone people, so if you guys are cure zone people, you want to call and tell me what it's all about, tell me.
+
+[30:20] But it seems like a bunch of people that I saw who are obsessed with their poop. So what they do is is they'll take some sort of like colon blow, you know, cleanse situation, and then they'll uh examine their poop in detail to see what kind of went through it. And uh a lot of these guys are uh petrified of this parasite called uh echinostoma uh r uh recurva recurvatrum, which apparently looks it's a it's a a fluke, a worm, and it looks a whole hell of a lot like a tomato skin. But everyone thinks that they have this, and and and they're backed up by a lot of research amongst the same people, but not a whole lot of medical doctors calling in, right? So it's like people like Nastasha here who have what have you self-diagnosed yourself with recently?
+
+[31:02] Everything, right? I don't remember. Well, yeah, you don't remember because it's like every day she comes in, she's like, my nose is gonna fall off in the next week, I'm sure of it. Anyway, uh there seems to be a whole lot of uh self diagnosis of this uh echinostoma fluke. And uh, but most of the people I think who are saying it like don't live anywhere near a place where you would get it, for instance, in certain places in Asia and things like that.
+
+[31:26] So I would assume that if you're looking at your poops, it's tomato skins and not uh and not worms. Um, because there's a whole lot of things that can pass through your your system on digestive, especially if you're taking something like colon blow, which incre which decreases transit time. That's just a polite way of saying all this stuff. If you decrease transit time, by the way, there's an incredibly cute little girl who's like putting her face into the window as we're uh as we're uh speaking here. Anything that you can do to uh decrease the transit time means you're gonna digest this stuff even less and it's gonna come out looking more and more whole.
+
+[31:59] Gross, gross. Let's take another break. All right, we're gonna go to our second commercial break. Call in your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128.
+
+[32:07] Sorry to gross you out. Cooking issues. It is interesting. I'm a bad man, my bag my thing. Oh yeah.
+
+[33:04] Welcome back to Cooking Issues. Boom Laca Lacalaka, boom, laka lockalaka. That is a good song. I wish the listeners could have seen Dave bouncing on the chair and uh Nastasia standing still there. I'll tell you what, to go back to to go back to yes, you you know, yes, that's true, bouncing up and down, but uh it goes back to the gross stuff we were talking about just before the break.
+
+[33:25] That song, uh uh the reason I like that song so much, besides from the the s severe butt kicking that it gives everyone, is the bass trombone in that thing, which uh just really fills out the bottom end of that song, and like uh you know, that kind of a song, when you play it loud enough, it's like it's uh a butt rumbling thing. So it fits with it fits with the with the theme. Why? Stand. Oh, the midget standing tall, giant about beside him about the fall.
+
+[33:53] I think so. The great one of the greatest lines of all time. I wonder what Sly and the fan. I wonder what Sly is up to these days. I hear he's a producer now.
+
+[33:59] He was in prison for a while and very. Really? Mm-hmm. Nastasha just having seen Elton John in concert. Uh okay.
+
+[34:09] So here's an update. We talked about uh radiating corn with uh atomic weapons uh and also the uh corn mutations and shrunken corn. So uh uh a friend actually of Nastasha's from childhood named Dev wrote in and said uh he hopes is all is well, which it is. Uh he just stumbled onto our uh podcast last week, uh and he's a biochemistry nerd, and he thinks he has a partial answer for my corn question about using radiation to get sweet corn. Radiation treatment is a common way to do a mutagenic screen, and this was one of the methods that Nobel laureate Barbara McClintock was able uh to discover, uh use to discover mobile genetic elements, transposons.
+
+[34:44] These transposons are why corn kernels have such heterogeneous, uh heterogeneous kernel coat colorings. Not each kernel is an exact genetic copy of the entire plant. As far as whether it was used for shrunken too, which is the the gene that helps super sweet corn be super sweet in particular, I don't know. It is possible. That strain seems to have been around since the 40s.
+
+[35:02] I think late, late 40s, early 50s, might have to re re-re-research my uh stuff. But it may have been an existing strain and was just first described in the literature that way. The biochemistry of that strain is pretty interesting too, but I can tell you about that later, uh, which I hope you do. He does have a question for us, not so much a question, but a dare. You've done inhibitors of sweetness and sour uh turning into sweet, that's miraculin, and the uh sweetness inhibitor is genemic acid, which you can actually buy if it turns out in uh Ayurvedic shops.
+
+[35:28] You don't need to go to uh herb like online herb shops. You can go into Calustean's or the dual spice specialty shop here in New York and buy genemia silvestri and uh take it and obliterate your sweetness. Uh you can look it up on our blog. We have a post on it. Um you should do bitter inhibitors, bitter blockers.
+
+[35:43] I know these are additives to some medicines to make them go down better. Give it a try. Uh and he hopes to hear from us. Well, we actually have tried it, but we tried it as part of someone else's experiment. Uh Francis Lamb on uh it was a salon.com, right?
+
+[35:56] The thing was on? Yeah, on Salon.com. That's hilarious. You should everyone should go right now, after they listen to us, don't leave right now, to uh Francis Lamb, uh who's uh we like him a lot, good writer on Salon.com, and he was uh doing a bitter blocker test, uh adenosine monophosphate, and he brought it in and we tested it with a bunch of different uh products that were bitter to see how they affected it. And they were all affected to uh they were affected to greater or lesser degrees.
+
+[36:21] And I think part of the problem with bitter blockers is that um unlike sour and sweet, where we have uh basically, you know, uh one or a few receptors, right? There are like over fifty kinds of receptors for bitterness. And so I doubt that there's necessarily going to be a broadband bitter blocker that's gonna knock everything down. The way that you can literally obliterate your sense of sweetness with genemic acid. Uh we were not able to completely obliterate the bitterness of things like coffee.
+
+[36:49] Uh what else do we test? Chocolate, although we beer. Although we were able to affect them. Uh it also, the bitter blocker that we use, the uh Dennis monophosphate, seemed to be much more dose and time dependent and also seemed to increase as you took more and more of it than uh we took much more than the recommended uh daily allowance of that stuff. Uh but it seemed much more dependent on those kind of factors than gymnemic acid, which just it's it's like bonehead simple.
+
+[37:16] You take it, everything's gone. Or miraculin, uh, you know, the where you take it, and you know, it definitely has an effect no matter what the sour thing is that you're adding, it has an effect. So we have experimented with it, but I didn't feel it was right to write about it since it was Francis' thing, and his article is far more hilarious than anything I could have um said about it. Uh Brasky writes in, I'm not smart enough to actually make this into a question. I'm sure you are, you know, he's being humble, I guess.
+
+[37:41] Uh but and this came in what I think it's a girl. She it's a she? I think it's a she. Well, I'm sure she's smart enough. Uh Brasky sounds like I I was thinking of it as a first name, it sounds like a first name.
+
+[37:52] Yeah, right? Yeah. Okay, it's a last name. Okay. Uh came in yesterday, but too late for Harold and I to get uh a hold of.
+
+[37:57] Um do you have any suggestions for improving beef at home? Is there a way to uncork beef that's gone flabby and purple? My friend is a grass-fed beef farmer, uh getaway farm in Nova Scotia. And while the beef is quite good, I often think it would be best if grain finished, but he says it's really hard on the cow's stomachs and removes most of the healthiness of grass-fed beef. Uh and there uh sh she or he is it she?
+
+[38:17] Oh, hey. He's a huge fan of our work. Good. Uh here's here's the deal. Uh it is hard on the cow's stomach uh over long periods, but there's no question that it does uh fatten them up quickly, which tenderizes them.
+
+[38:29] As for the healthiness, I'm not sure um I'm not sure I'm a believer in any health claim on uh beef, either pro or anti. I eat beef because I really like it a lot. Uh grain-fed beef tends not to need as much aging to get it to be tender because usually it's more inherently tender uh because it's just been fattened up with grain. Um, if it's gone uh flabby and purple, I'm assuming that it's being aged in a uh in a cryo bag, and you should be able wet aged if it's going purple, in which case you should be able to get it back in fairly good shape just by getting it out of the bag and letting it uh dry out. Because regular dry aging, right, has two different processes.
+
+[39:11] One, the purpleness is probably coming from a lack of oxygen from being inside of the bag, right? That's what purple comes from usually. Um so uh the flabbyness could be because the moisture has been staying in there too long, you know, it's too much moisture in there. So dry aging does two things. One, it tenderizes the meat by uh having enzymes continue to act on the meat and thereby break down the proteins, right?
+
+[39:32] And two, uh it tends to dry out the meat uh uh slightly, which increases the flavor because what's being removed is water, which is relatively flavorless. So in general, I think grass-fed beef, in order to be really delicious, um, should be aged, dry aged, preferably. Uh, and then the the challenge becomes with dry aging grass-fed beef that it typically doesn't have a large fat cap on the outside because it hasn't been finished with grain. And if you age something that doesn't have a large fat cap on the outside, it tends to lose moisture too quickly and you lose a lot of the meat on the outside, which then uh is a is a problem with cost and also a problem with um well, it's mainly a problem with cost. Because the fat keeps the moisture in and allows the enzymes to work for a long time without a radical amount of uh of moisture loss.
+
+[40:17] Um that said, um, you know, that whether you want grass-fed or you want grain-fed is largely a matter of taste. I know some people who really just love the taste of grain-fed beef, and you know, they're not too concerned about what it's gonna do to the cow's stomach since they're about to take a captive bolt gun and shoot it in the head anyway. Was that callus? What? That's the truth.
+
+[40:37] You know, people need to realize we're killing animals when we're eating meat. Anyway, I hope that at least somewhat answers the question. Okay, and I think we've taken care of all the mailing questions, which means we can use the last portion of this uh show to unless there's a caller at 718 4972128, 7184972128, unless there's a question, we can spend the rest of the time talking about our awesome fundraiser that we had on Sunday, right? Yeah. It was awesome.
+
+[41:03] We kicked ass. Yeah well you know I don't think you're allowed to say that on the air but yes we did. No I realized if eater can use it we can right. Oh if eater can use it yeah so if look don't take our word for how awesome it was go on eater.com go to uh timeout new youth did food and wine uh put anything up on their blog yet so Daniel Gritzer anyway um so Heritage Foods right our parent here was one of the sponsors as was Pernot Ricard who gave us all the booze and the Barterhouse which is one of our uh you know the the the fine people behind the wine booza which you should all go buy they gave us a bunch of good wine Pat Lafrida gave us the meat uh we was at Del Posto the French culinary um you're gonna go to our website soon and see all of the all of the sponsors and like a complete rundown of what we did but basically I'm gonna give you uh the rundown on what the what the food and drink was. I'm not gonna talk about the mummy powder because I already talked about the mummy powder last week and you can go to the blog uh for more but Cesare came in with a whole passel of uh awesome cured meats, so you know, uh mainly prosciutto, parmigiano, and and some really really good salumi.
+
+[42:05] Uh I didn't even ask the name, I was too busy shoveling it in my face to kind of ask the name for it. Um we then had uh um coming in after that, we had Nils did hit I gave him fad diets, and he he did something called the real South Beach diet, which was a cabbage soup and a Cuban sandwich, because South Beach di diet has cabbage soup, but he says in South Beach what they're really eating is Cuban sandwiches. So it was like the flavors of Cuban sandwich, and then a shot of like a pure cabbage soup that was was delicious. And then um then next uh Damon Bolti came out with uh martell and orange, basically like an old oldie fashion kind of thing, which was freaking delicious. They had a bunch of that, and we served with that was uh was uh Carlo Morachi came out with his lamb and mint, which was like a like a ch like mint jelly and yogurt.
+
+[42:49] This was based on New York circa like 1780s, and like a little piece of lamb that uh breast that was uh seared on all sides, great stuff, right? Then uh after that, Evan Clem, bartender, came out with um his ketzicato drink. That was good. So he grew his own corn. I don't know where the hell he grew his own corn, but he grew his own corn and made sort of a corn like orchata thing and uh put a little bit of licorice in it by using absinthe and then uh with vodka to booze it up because that's Evan.
+
+[43:17] You know, Evan can't do anything without boozing it up. So he served that uh as as a foil to Dave Chang's dish, which was called It's a Shame We Know More About Dinosaurs and About What Native Americans Ate. And he called up a guy, he wanted it to be actually Hudson, like what they ate here in Manhattan. And his thing, he spent like hours and hours researching. He called every uh Native American tribe leader from here to here to hell, and called up like you know um uh anthropologists and uh archaeologists and everything, and turns out that we know Jack Squat about how this stuff was prepared and eaten.
+
+[43:48] We just know what they ate. And so he called up, we all we know that the oysters were bigger because we have the shell mittens, middens. So we called up a friend of his who's an oyster producer in uh up in Long Island, like old school blue point oysters, and he's like, keep some growing for a lot longer. And so, because we told him early what what he was gonna do. And these oysters were some big oysters.
+
+[44:07] They're the biggest oysters from this coast I've ever seen, ever. And he cooked them because the Native Americans cooked them. And he served them with acorns and uh dried berries, uh, with like some some like uh greenery on top. And that was very interesting. He took it like he was the most kind of literal interpretation.
+
+[44:23] I think my Carlo Carlo as well, what was going on, but you know, fascinating, fascinating stuff. After that, we had an auction where we auctioned off like a Nathan Miravold, Chris Young book, a polycycient circulator. Uh I lost my voice during the auction because I went crazy. What? Where is it?
+
+[44:37] Which circulator. Uh I don't know. Uh I don't we apparently we've lost the circulator. I hope not. We'll have to find it.
+
+[44:43] But the um uh we auctioned off a signed chef jacket for 900 bucks, which was awesome. Uh we then did uh caveman food and Thomas Wall from Def and Co did uh Pierre Jouet champagne and Lindemann's pech lambic beer because he's like, I don't know, it was fermented. It's delicious, delicious. Uh you gotta know Thomas for that to be funny, but uh anyway. And then uh Wiley came out with uh like a crazy plating contraction that looked amazing.
+
+[45:08] He made fake, he wanted to do bone marrow because it was like cavemen like eating bones. So he made a fake bone marrow out of uh out of uh like a both fake bone out of potato, uh, which you know he said basically they used tubers, they didn't use potatoes, but since we don't know what tubers they ate, it might as well be a potato. Uh and then it looked just like the outside of a bone, and then he filled it with bone with a bone marrow mix that he made. Uh and then he had like instead of like blood from the animal, he had like a beet puree because they would have had roots and things they would have ate as well. He then took a Noki mushrooms and dehydrated them to look like twigs, like they were like lying around on the ground.
+
+[45:40] They looked freaking amazing. And then he had some sort of like edible grass on top of that. So it looked pretty damn cool, right? Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[45:44] Then came ancient Rome. Uh, and uh Audrey Saunders came on board with uh her Madeira Martinez, which was uh like uh it was basically Madeira and uh and bay leaf infused uh gin. That was some delicious, delicious business. Uh I drank a little much of that one. And uh and then Mark came out, Ladner from Del Posto, the home chef, with I swear to God, a whole ostrich.
+
+[46:12] Showed up with a whole ostrich, and then we had another one cooked and served uh, you know, with spice like Roman style on bread, like almost like on trenchers. Like uh I didn't know they did that in Rome, but I get yeah, I did know that. But kind of like trenchers in medieval times. So that was that was amazing. The dish was called Big Bird.
+
+[46:28] Uh and then after that came the desserts. And uh the first thing that went out was uh an espresso martini to kind of reinvigorate everyone, the Kentucky put out. That was also delicious. It was espresso martini with uh with uh Sinar, China, I think it's China, which is an artichoke uh liqueur that was absolutely great, and that was paired with uh with Brooks Headley, who did uh an uh basically a sweet dessert made of uh fried artichokes because his was uh Hebrew food in Italy, so he was taking that's basically an old uh it's like uh what is it, carciofiala juda, which is a Jewish like a recipe, and then sweetened it with a matz and made a mazzo uh matza ricotta ice cream, and apparently it was delicious. But since no one saved me any, I didn't get to try it.
+
+[47:09] Thanks. Thanks. Thanks. Thanks. Then I served uh a martell cognac mark cordon blue with uh mana, that's mana from heaven.
+
+[47:17] You can find it on our blog. It's some real business. You know, it's like dried up, you know, dried up plant sap that God sent to save the Israelites, if you believe in that sort of thing. And Tozi sent out Space Food, which was uh she did an uh her take on uh Neapol astronaut ice cream, Neapolitan uh ice cream. And everything was delicious, everything was amazing, and a big uh big thanks.
+
+[47:37] We had actually some people from the listeners from the radio show who came. Uh Ken Ingbert came, Colin Gore came. We thank you very much. Uh Ariel from UC Davis came. The other guy was Brian Corio.
+
+[47:49] Brian Corio came. Uh uh or his dad came. They both came. He didn't say hello, did it? The whole family came.
+
+[47:54] Anyway, amazing. Thank you so much. Uh we hope to do it again in six months on the West Coast for anyone that listens on on the West Coast. Listeners can't see, but I'm crying in the booth. No, yeah, because Jack didn't get to go.
+
+[48:06] He was here busy doing radio because he didn't he that's so he didn't get to go, even though he was obviously we wanted him to come, so he missed out on what turned out to be one of the most epic lunches of all time. And this is big as pizza, though. What? Ida Roberta's pizza. No, Roberta's pizza also delicious, also can be epic.
+
+[48:23] Anyway, that is this week's Cooking Issues. Come back next week. Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store.
+
+[48:52] You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening. And I guess can't get it straight. Vicious Vicious Fotco. Oh, you daddy rat.
+
+[49:20] The following is a public service announcement from Heritage Radio Network. The Snacky Tunes compilation has arrived and is available for free on our website, Heritage Radio Network.com. This compilation features live performances from some of the hottest acts around today, including Midnight Magic, Surfer Blood, Overhopper, and more. Again, you can download this compilation for free on our website, Heritage Radio Network.com, and make sure to listen to Snacky Tunes every Monday at 2 p.m. on Heritage Radio Network.
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+[0:10] Hello and welcome to another late session of Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network. I'm Dave Arnold, you're a host of Cooking Issues here with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, fresh back from her trip to California to visit her parents for her birthday, almost a month prior to her birthday. How was that trip, Nastasha? Good. Yeah, good?
+
+[0:26] Yeah. So uh please call in all of your cooking-related questions or non if you have non-cooking related questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. So uh last week we had a question uh from actually a telephone question from I forget who's who what their name was, but they had a question about salt rising bread. And uh salt rising bread is a unique kind of bread uh that dates at least back in in this country anyway, uh at least to the 1840s, 1850s, and it's basically died out almost everywhere, except for in certain places like Western New York.
+
+[1:02] So uh I said, which was truthful, I don't know anything about it, right? So I made some, which is the reason why I'm late, by the way. That's why I'm late today. Now, uh in fact, I didn't get to make it 100% like it was supposed to. Um I didn't get a chance to go all the way through the proofing.
+
+[1:17] I kept waiting for it to finish its proofing, and the proofing time of this kind of bread is very variable, so anyways, I had to throw it in the oven too early. Also, I didn't add any crush treatment like an egg wash or anything to it, so the top is rather sallow. And I pulled it out of the oven and literally put it into a metal box and ran to the studio. So that's why I'm late. So Nastasha and I are gonna try it.
+
+[1:36] It's still hot, but it's uh cool enough to touch. Ow. And I brought some butter. Yeah, well, it looks okay, right? Right, Nastasha?
+
+[1:47] Yeah. Looks alright. Put some butter on some of this and break off a piece and let's try it. Then we'll after you try it, we'll talk about it, okay? Meanwhile, uh this is the first week that I'm doing the radio show as a 40-year-old.
+
+[2:02] Right. Happy birthday. Yeah, right. Uh so uh auspicious beginning to my fifth decade on this planet. On the way biking home from work on my birthday, I got doored by a uh by an SUV and flipped over into the street and all mangled and bruised.
+
+[2:18] It's a good way to start, right? Yes. It's a good start to your fifth decade. I think so. More of the same, right?
+
+[2:23] Like, why should why should life change just because you get older? Anyhow, uh and uh another thing, this is the first show where Nastasha actually currently is no longer an employee of the French Culinary Institute. Thank God. Uh-huh. And I am uh I am now uh an independent contractor.
+
+[2:41] So I'm officially in business for myself now, as well as still a director of culinary technology. So it's uh it's a good day, right? Yes. By the way who's cooking issues being brought to us by today, Jack? Hearst Ranch.
+
+[2:54] Hearst Ranch. I don't have the words to read about Hearst Ranch, but Hearst Ranch is uh, I believe one of the oldest uh privately owned uh kind of uh meat farms in the in the country, right? And they have a a a huge range uh of uh of delicious uh grass-fed uh cow that I've eaten. And uh this stuff's really good, right? And they've been a long time sponsor and friend of the show.
+
+[3:17] And uh their um their website is www.hurstranch.com. My correct, Jack? Yes. Yes, okay. So now we're tasting our salt risen bread.
+
+[3:25] What do you think, Nastasha? Good. It needs more salt. Well, interesting. We'll get into that.
+
+[3:31] Um we'll get into that. Excuse me, I'm eating. So one of the peculiar things about salt resin bread is it has, if you smell it, a cheesy aroma. A very, very particular cheesy aroma. This particular one's under risen.
+
+[3:48] Oh, I think we we might have a collar, in which case I will describe the the bread in a moment. Jack, do we have a collar? Yep, caller, you're on the air. Hey Dave. Um my name's Norm from Seattle, Washington.
+
+[4:02] And um I have got myself a brawn thermal mixer that I was able to get working again. Wow. And um I was uh gonna try my first uh chance at 2 eat. Be very careful, of course. Right.
+
+[4:17] And um I've got myself a brisket here, actually. It's a corned beef that I was gonna try. And I was just um hoping you might give me a couple pointers to uh get me out of my way. Sure. Now for uh for those of you out there, uh brawn thermal mixer is not this not nearly the same thing as a thermal mix, as the Europeans know it.
+
+[4:38] A thermal mix is a European piece of equipment that's a blenderslash heater, slash mixers, slash scale. They're not really that popular in this country because they're very expensive here in the US, but they're extremely popular in Europe, um, where they don't have vita preps, which are extremely popular here. Anyway, um the Braun Thermomix, or more properly, the B bron thermal mix is an old style uh it's an old company that made B Brawn, made circulators back in the day, and they haven't been made for a long time. I'm assuming yours is the is the classic B bron green, right? Yep, it's uh 1419 B bron green, yeah.
+
+[5:12] Yeah, yeah. So uh yeah, they're like a cool green color. Uh I had a couple of those that uh actually were harvested from uh from the nate naval labs at uh Pearl Harbor, which was kind of interesting. Uh mine yeah, mine were built in the I believe early, early eighties, and they they lasted a good long time. Do you is yours have a digital readout or the click the the one where you click it in uh with uh with a thumb dial?
+
+[5:35] Uh it's got yeah, it's got the knob dial. Yeah. So yeah, that's what my one of my questions was. It didn't look like I was able to get a a really good uh tenth of a degree uh control. It's maybe maybe point five degrees plus or minus, you know, kind of thing.
+
+[5:50] Yeah. Good news is that's good enough. It's probably I mean uh uh these things uh as they age, they might have some drift in um you know uh in their calibration, not for probably from the instrument itself, but maybe from the electronics, because I don't know how they're calibrated. So I would take it before you do anything and do an ice water uh bath, uh, you know, and just make sure that it registers at zero. Um in general, what goes bad on those uh circulators, the motor will eventually wear bad.
+
+[6:15] Now, if you had one that was used for uh not very much and then was mothballed relatively early in its lifetime, it could still have many good years of life ahead of it. But to the bushings are loud. Yeah, duh. Well, so I had one that I kept alive. Don't tell anyone this, of course.
+
+[6:30] I'm telling everyone this. Uh I had one that I kept alive for a long time with uh little squirts of uh of uh I mean I didn't have any food grade lubricant on me, so I used WD40 just to kill the bearing squeal. But that that is how those things typically when they die, that's how they die. They die through loss of a bearing because the bearings that were used back in those days weren't sealed the same way that they that the new ones are. So the new ones very rarely have bearing faults.
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+[6:54] Um, you know, or at least I've used them for many years without having uh bearing faults unless you do something really nasty to them. Okay. So that's how much did you pay for it, if you mind my asking? Oh, I I got it out of the garbage. Ah, pfft.
+
+[7:06] Awesome. Alright. So, so like anything you get's gravy out of it, in other words. Yeah. Beautiful.
+
+[7:10] Okay. Uh was it really encrusted with oil? One of mine had been uh running oil for a long time and was a real pain to clean out. No, no. Actually, it cleaned up really well.
+
+[7:14] Um little bit of water scaling is pretty much all I had. Um so it um this was, you know, um from a laboratory. So um I'm thinking it was didn't have yeah, I didn't see any oil on it at all. Nice. Okay.
+
+[7:30] Yeah, but no, some of our some of our labs ones I got were running oil baths, and that's why they had the oil on them. So it looks like you're in good shape. And as long as the bearings are they squealing, or are they just you can hear the motor turn? Um it's um it's kind of uh a little bit of a grindy squeal. Uh not not squeal, but more kind of a kind of a grind.
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+[7:50] Um, why don't I just do this? Um yeah. You hear that? Yeah, and then it smooths out after a minute. Yeah.
+
+[8:03] So what's gonna happen eventually is your bearing is gonna fail there. I would try to grease it a little bit, which is gonna make it last for a while. But I even I've even had one once run in restaurants for a little while like that, but that's gonna be the mode of failure of that guy. Uh but you know, he's you know, it's probably lived a long and honorable life, that guy. Okay, so back to your other question of the brisket.
+
+[8:22] The brisket's already been cured, right? Yeah. Okay, now how you do this depends a lot on what you want the texture of it to be. Do you want it to be more like a traditional brisket texture, or do you want to achieve kind of one of these real low low temperature textures that people are uh are doing? So typically what I'll tell you what I do.
+
+[8:40] I don't cook a lot of brisket, but I'm gonna equate it to a short rib for you. How about that? Okay. So in a in a short rib, right, you're gonna wanna it you can I I don't do any temperatures below about fifty-seven because I find that nobody wants this stuff really rare, bloody rare, right? So no one wants it in like the fifty five uh I'm in Celsius, by the way.
+
+[8:58] 55 uh Celsius range. You can cook the stuff down there, but here are two problems you might have. You're gonna if you're gonna cook at a very, very low temp, I would suggest uh initially uh doing a quick dunk into uh simmering water, like you know, maybe like 15 to 30 seconds or something like that. And that is to um that's to kill the bacteria on the outside. Now, if you're only doing one, that's not a big deal.
+
+[9:21] But if you're doing more than one and you don't do that, and the bags are touching each other, the uh lactic acid bacteria that are alive on the inside of the bag can get a chance to grow before the temperature gets high enough to kill them. And I especially see this in people that cook long-term things below about 57 degrees Celsius. So uh like if you're gonna go below 57, I would do like a quick uh like a quick dip in simmering water, or else um, you know, pre-searing helps, but you know, the stuff's still in the uh in the you know in the sauce, right? So um don't overcrowd it and and and I typically go above fifty-seven anyway. So fifty-seven is about the lowest that I'll do uh like a short rib.
+
+[10:02] And a brisket might be around the same thing. For 57 degrees, you're gonna wanna shoot anywhere between uh 48 and probably 60 hours in that range. So you're you're gonna have to get a feel for it. You can feel it in the bag as it goes. So at 48 hours, it will st at that temperature.
+
+[10:21] It will still have quite a bit of toothy bite to it. By the time you get to the upper range of that, and definitely by the time you get to 72 hours, it's gonna in my taste be kind of mushy. It will have lost its texture, which I don't find pleasant. Some people like it, right? I don't find it pleasant.
+
+[10:36] Um in general, I find people like the slightly beefier flavor you get out of uh something that's like 60 degrees. So it's 60 degrees Celsius, which is a hundred and forty, I would cook it for about two days. And then uh progressively as you go higher, you you can cook it less and less. I wouldn't cook it much above sixty-three or sixty-four because anything above that, I would just assume cook it traditionally. Does that make sense?
+
+[10:58] Hello? Yeah. Yeah, I'm here. Yeah. All right.
+
+[11:01] So I would try I would try those, uh I would try those ranges and see how they work. I think uh about sixty degrees for for 48 hours, and um, yeah, that sounds good now. Um you're if I do uh that uh blanching, the the dip, um gonna re uh remove anything. Do you uh uh think I should make up any kind of sauce, like with uh the uh spice packet that's uh comes with it uh to put around it in the bag or just just dip it, throw it in the bag and it's a good thing. Yeah, uh you can put this I would put the spices on it.
+
+[11:32] Uh maybe cut it back a little bit if you're gonna vacuum it down uh a little bit back from normal. Make sure that you don't put a lot of liquid in the bag or it's gonna taste really poached, right? Reduce any liquid that goes in and reduce it because uh if you're gonna cook traditionally, you're gonna be evaporating liquid off, and in the bag you won't. Yeah. Wonderful.
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+[11:49] All right, well, give it a shot give it a shot. Tell me how it happens. Good luck with your thermal mix. Okay, thanks. Alrighty.
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+[11:54] Oh, we're going to our first commercial break. This has been cooking issues. Call back. Oh, still are cooking issues going to our first break. What?
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+[12:00] Oh, there's a collar, all right. Caller, you're on the air. Hey Dave. Howdy. This is uh Mike.
+
+[12:06] Um uh I'm a brewer in a commercial brewery, and uh been listening to your podcast a lot and was in uh intrigued by the uh the raw food discussions you're having. And as a thought experiment here at the brewery, we were just kind of thinking, would it be possible to brew a raw beer? I know the the main problem I was thinking, you know, the alpha amylase and beta amylase to convert the mash is normally done pretty high, you know, 150, 160. Right. But then I was thinking, you know, with the like chicha and these uh early primitive beers where people would just chew on, you know, the starch, the corn or whatever, that the alpha amylase and the saliva would break it down.
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+[12:48] So I was thinking you might be able to get conversion of a mash at 118. What do you think? Uh it's yeah, I I you know the the profiles might be different, right? I mean I don't think you'd get what I mean here are the problems as I see it. And and uh you know I'm love to hear what you have to say about it.
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+[13:02] First of all, uh I think the both of us find it hilarious I find it hilarious. I'm sure you do too that um you're not that you would typically use temperatures that are higher than than raw food would allow in order to activate an enzyme and the whole purpose of raw food is to keep enzymes alive. So I find that amusing but yeah. Um and by the way uh for those of you listening we're not welching we just had to post but we're still doing the raw food uh the raw food thing that's going to come up very soon. Okay.
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+[13:27] Um I would assume that yes those enzymes are gonna are gonna work. It's just you know you're gonna be you're gonna be thrown off your your times and the uh you know and and obviously you might not get the you know you know you're shooting for uh the mash temperatures that are going to get the right balance of the alpha and the beta amylases working for you so you can get the right um the the right breakdown products that you want um aside from me mashing I'm sure you could get to work right uh at a hundred and a hundred and twelve or whatever it is that they want you to eventually I don't know that you're gonna get complete conversion but the real problem is is you're not gonna be able to boil the the uh the boil it afterwards. Well I was thinking you could sterile filter the work. Right. And then add maybe a CO2 hop extract.
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+[14:12] Do you know if uh when they do those, do you know if they uh get above one eighteen for those? I assume it's all cold side, right, with the liquid CO2? Yeah, they they are right. I mean that's from from my experien from my knowledge of the of the system it's all done um it's all done cold. And did they sell that?
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+[14:28] They sell the um they sell the the Uh-huh yeah huh. Now the only thing I was worried about is you know the lacto, lactobacillus is really gonna be rocking at one one fifteen, one eighteen. You know, is there any way to that you would inhibit that to let the uh you know the alpha and beta do what they can at that temperature because otherwise it's just gonna be sour with it you know long before I think the starch is converted. Right. Uh I'm I'm thinking now as as we're as we're talking, I'm thinking about it and um I'm trying to think of something that's not going to also later inhibit yeast or that you can remove that is going to um prevent lactic acid uh uh from appearing in there.
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+[15:14] Hmm have you thought of anything or no? No really you know that chemical side of things we're not really involved with at all. Um so I don't know it's more of a thought experiment of you know could we do it if we wanted to obviously we wouldn't you know be able to make a great beer but I just thought it would be not that I even want to encourage that kind of uh behavior from these raw foodies because like you say it's just ridiculous. You know all the enzymes that we use in brewing don't even start till above one eighteen except for maybe you know some beta glucanase or something. Right.
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+[15:46] I mean, but it's a really interesting uh problem, and you could actually, I mean, you know, w whether or not you personally are interested, you could open up a seg uh uh a a separate market segment off if it's possible because you know you go to these places and they have basically wines. Uh they don't have any liquors because they haven't picked up on rotary evaporation yet, so none of them have done that that I know of. You know what I mean? So I'll definitely be drinking homemade liquor off done off of uh raw approved wines when I'm when I'm doing the raw food diet. But beer is an interesting an interesting problem.
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+[16:15] I think you've kind of hit the nail on the head that you're gonna have the the main problems are gonna be during the the the mashing. Um I don't have filters that I would trust to to filter it out afterwards that weren't gonna clog like a lunatic, but if you have them, you could definitely definitely do it. Um have you ever just had like uh you you ever just like uh also your the other problem is your barley is gonna be kiln to too high a temperature. Uh that's yeah, possibly, yeah. I think they do kill uh kiln at about one thirty.
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+[16:44] So I'm gonna have to look into that. Yeah, because I was thinking about doing doing something uh for you know, but they s they sprout all the stuff, but then they don't I mean it would be possible maybe to do a mash that wasn't kilned if you used it uh uh as soon as the thing uh you know reached the proper stage of malting, would you malted your own and didn't kiln it to dry it off. Right. I mean, wouldn't it be possible to then directly go to the mash stage? Uh yeah, yeah, it's it's not required.
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+[17:11] Though the drying uh part of of uh malting is just as, you know, so it's storable. Right. And I'm I've never done my own malting, but I hear that that's as much of an art or more so as anything else. Yeah, I malted some corn to do some uh heirloom variety corn uh moonshine and sprouted the corn and mashed that. Off the record, you mean you did that?
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+[17:31] Yeah. Uh yeah, yeah, of course. Yeah, yeah. How was it? Uh delicious.
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+[17:36] I mean the the the the amount we got out of it was ridiculously small, you know, out of like fifteen pounds of corn, we got a pint of uh finished product. But it was so sweet and the corn flavor just came through so much better than you know, modern moonshine is just corn sugar for the most part. Right. And uh you know, I've never had the the actual fermented cheeses like ch chichidahura and all these things, but um, you know, in their local environment I've only had the you know the um the chicha that you know the non-alcoholic cheaches that they have up here. But you know, assuming that those are boil-free, you also might look at maybe it's easier to get uh the breakdown of the mash in corn rather than in a barley.
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+[18:14] Um I don't know. Or I I also don't know if the saliva amylase uh enzymes are qualitatively different from the ones that we use uh from uh barley malt. Um but these are all things uh that I find interesting. So w why don't you why don't you investigate it and I'll look into a little bit and then maybe we'll talk about it again on a future show. Sound good?
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+[18:34] Sounds good, Dave. Hey, uh one more thing uh on a food or on a food note. Um I've been really into uh cooking authentic Thai food ever since I ate at this restaurant Pac Park up in uh Portland. Right. And uh I've got all Dave Thompson's books and uh I I've I can't a lot of them call for coriander root.
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+[18:51] And I was wondering if you have a source or have you ever seen any coriander roots available anywhere? I mean, if you can get if you can buy so a bunch of cilantro with the roots still attached, I think. Yeah, I mean occasionally I'll get that, but uh I mean you have then the good Thai groceries in that in in your area don't don't have it, or do you not have like a hardcore Thai grocery? Uh we don't have any, but even when I go down to Atlanta and then go to the big ones, I've just never seen it anywhere. So I grow my own, but uh, you know.
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+[19:19] Right. Pain in the butt. Yeah. Yeah. Just for the roots.
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+[19:22] I have occasionally gotten uh bunch uh cilantro with the root attached, but I I'll uh Nastasha make a note to look into it, and I'll def I'll look into that when I'm looking to the raw food. We'll try to hit two birds with one stone. Alright, Dave, thanks for the help. Uh thank you. See ya.
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+[19:36] Alright, and now we are officially going to our first commercial break. Calling your questions to 718 497 2128. That's 7184972128 Cooking Issues, Parliament. I will move out to sleep. Following is a public service announcement from Heritage Radio Network.
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+[20:47] Join Linda Palacio for a taste of the past every Thursday at twelve PM as she indulges her curiosities about food, cooking, drinking, and dining of the past by taking a journey through culinary history. Linda interviews authors, scholars, friends, and chroniclers to learn about what was eaten, where, and how. From as long ago as ancient Mesopotamia and Rome, right up to the grazing tables and deli counters of today. The show underscores food as a lively link between present and past cultures. Again, that's Thursday at 12 p.m.
+
+[21:20] on Heritage Radio Network. But most of all, the funk. Linda Palacio, also the father, uh mother of uh chef Zach Zach Palacio, and attended our fundraiser. Yeah. Right.
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+[21:33] So cheers to cheers to the Palaccio crew. All right. So go to back to our salt-risen bread. Salt rising, salt-risen or salt-rising bread actually doesn't contain uh a lot of salt, although sometimes it can. Uh, this one's under salted because I didn't really want to taste it during the fermentation process, and I'll tell you why.
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+[21:50] Uh, salt-risen bread does not use yeast, right? Typical breads that we use that we make uh are are leavened with uh yeast, different varieties of yeast. Sourdough breads are are leavened with a basically a symbiotic uh culture that's both lactic acid bacteria and yeast, right? And so it's like that and the specific culture depends on the specific yeast and the specific um you know strain of yeast and the specific uh bacterial culture that you have in it, and and and that's what gives the characteristic uh flavors of sourdough bread. Right?
+
+[22:22] They're sour and because the lactic acid bacteria are basically I think eating the uh byproducts of the yeast and producing the acid acidity provides a characteristic twang and also makes the dough slacker, which is why sourdough doesn't have the same taste or feeling as as regular, because the gluten is somewhat uh broken down by the acidity. Okay. Now, salt rising bread, on the other hand, is uh leavened purely by bacterial action, and the bacteria involved is uh Clostridium perfringens, which is actually a pathogen, a food pathogen, like one of the the second uh best known uh uh or second probably most prevalent or one of the most prevalent uh food poisoning bacteria that there are. Now, I made Nastasha eat the bread before I said this because I knew that she would not try it afterwards. Now, there's a what's interesting is is it's been it's been very, very thoroughly studied, and there's a study on it called the microbiology of salt rising bread uh for done by the uh West Virginia University School of Medicine uh fairly recently, and uh basically what they did was they they they did a study of the different uh starters.
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+[23:26] Now, the way you do a starter, Clostridium porfringens is a uh is is a is an anaerobic it basically can't grow in oxygen. So, what you do is you make a liquid mix with something like cornmeal or something for it to feed on, right? And you can add either salt or uh or sometimes baking soda or uh a Camden tablet, which is basically a yeast inhibitor because you want to stop yeasts from growing in there. You only want this bacteria to grow in it. And you let it sit in a warm place.
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+[23:52] I used my Excalibur uh dehydrator, which you can also use as a as a bread proofer to keep it at about a hundred degrees Fahrenheit for hours, like usually overnight, until it gets uh foamy and starts taking on a cheese-like aroma that's characteristic of salt-ridden bread, salt risen bread. Uh, some of that characteristic aroma comes from one of the byproducts of clostridium perfringens, which is butyric acid, which is the smell of rancid butter, or which you can smell now that you have it, Nastasha, you'll see what I mean, or uh it's a characteristic of parmesan cheese, or in very high concentrations, vomit. Okay, so it has a very specific aroma that uh that that devotees of this uh bread really, really, really enjoy. They then add uh usually more water and flour to create a spongy starter, which you then let rise again for many hours, then make the dough, and then let it rise up uh yet again, and you bake it. The texture, it's a lot whiter than regular bread because of the uh for some reason I don't really know why.
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+[24:44] They said it's because of the acids involved, but I doubt that. I don't know what it is. But it's a very white crumb, it has a different texture, it uh finer bubbles. The gases produced are not uh carbon dioxide as they are in normal bread. It's a combination of hydrogen and I believe also hydrogen sulfide, although I'm not sure, uh uh gases in the in the bread.
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+[25:05] So it's basically a fundamentally different bread making mechanism than you would use normally. Now, when you bake them, right, uh and they do have this like really like once you smell it once, you like you're never gonna like k you mistake the smell for for it and you know, it again, you know what it smells like when it happens. Uh a lot of people have uh failures of getting their thing to rise, but it's very easy for me because I use the X calibration. What? Well, come on, Nastasha, always taking into the gutter.
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+[25:28] Always taking it to the gutter. Anyway, some people have a problem getting these things to rise in a in a non-sexual way, you gross. Uh and um and uh I think it's because they don't have adequate temperature control. So uh one of the reasons it's called salt risen bread, some people speculate, is because you add salt to inhibit yeast uh formation. The other thing is that uh apparently the the people who used to make it, they would uh they would take salt and heat it up and use that as as a heat as a warm bed, a warm bed of salt to keep it in to keep the temperature of the starter in the right place while it was heating, because it and that by the way, the crunching here in the back isn't me crumpling paper, it's Nastasha eating the bread.
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+[26:03] So thank goodness she's overcome the uh the like the fear of uh of uh perfyngence poisoning. Of course I can hear it. Anyway, uh perfynce poisoning and she's eating it. Uh there's never uh there's never been a reported case of foodborne illness as a result of eating the bread, and uh the microbi the the test they've ran on the bread after it was cooked is that it is has it basically no active uh perfinggens in it. Now, uh Clostrium perfringes is interesting because it's a spore-forming bacteria.
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+[26:29] Uh so you don't really kill it. You just kill all the vegetative cells, you don't kill the spores. Ugh. But it's ubiquitous, Nastasha. Obviously, I was able to have some.
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+[26:39] You don't like the word spore? What's wrong with the word spore? Spores don't move, they're spores. No, I just don't like it. She's making little like spider movements with her hands.
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+[26:48] There it's a spore. Ugh. You like mushrooms, right? You know what they make? Spores.
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+[26:55] Spore, spore, spore. Anyway, uh, so uh, so it's a very interesting topic. One um I'm you know, I doubt that I'll actually um blog about it. There's a very good website, or you know, or at least a uh one that's well known, Susan R. Brown Salt Rising Bread Project, uh that you can uh look up if you want to look up more on salt rising bread.
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+[27:13] Uh again, the only reason I I don't think that I'll be writing about it is because I have so many things I need to write about already and I haven't done it. But besides that, um it's already been handled pretty well, I think, by these other guys. I don't really have anything to add to it. You know what I mean? Like I we didn't do anything fancy or or different, like I didn't make like a salt-rising chicken.
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+[27:31] You know what I mean? Like if I could come up with like a salt-rising chicken, then you know we can do something uh very different. But here we are eating the salt-rising bread, and I definitely will experiment with it more myself because it's interesting and I like I like funky things. And actually, I like the taste. If I could get it to rise a little more, uh, if I proved it longer, I'm I'm gonna add like a crust treatment to it too.
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+[27:50] What do you think, Nastasha? Uh, I like the taste. Yeah, I'm gonna try to maybe also do it with alternative grains. It's always usually done with wheat flour. I'm gonna try maybe doing it with uh maybe well, Nastasha's not a big rye person, but I'm gonna maybe add a little bit of rye.
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+[28:02] Uh play around with it. We'll see. Anyway, okay. Now, on to the email. By the way, there still is time to call in your questions.
+
+[28:07] I've wadded up the napkin, so I don't have that. 718-497-2128. Oh, very good. Say it again. 7184972128.
+
+[28:15] Yes. Anyway, um, that's how we operate in the radio here, by the way. We have crumpled up napkins with it with because for some reason for some reason I can't ever commit the telephone number uh of the radio station to memory, no matter how many times I've said it. It's like literally goes it goes off the paper into my eyes, through my mouth, and it's gone. Never never has any any residence time in my brain.
+
+[28:35] All right. Hey guys, look forward to your show each week. Thank you. This is from Lee. I've got some pork shanks.
+
+[28:40] I'm gonna cook low temp, looking for some guidance on time and temperature. I've done lamb shanks at 70 degrees Celsius for 36 hours, then bone in pork shoulder at 61.5 degrees C for 48 hours. Both came out great, but the great variance leaves me lost uh for the pork shanks. Okay. The lamb shanks at 70 C for 36 hours, that's a long well, let me see.
+
+[29:00] 70 for 36 and 61 for 48. Those are what's funny is those are about equivalent, Lee. So in other words, uh you got to choose the temperature and the time. Um if I were gonna do pork shanks, I would do it closer to the second one 61 for 48, or maybe 63 for about 56, 57. Give that a shot.
+
+[29:20] The two numbers you have are actually fairly equivalent, even though they seem disparate because you have to cook for a lot shorter time as the temperature goes up. Anyway, I hope that hope that helps. And give us a call and tell us how how your pork shank turned up. But hey, we have a caller and caller, you were on the air. Hey now, Dave, how are you doing?
+
+[29:34] All right, what's up? Uh I'm I was wondering uh about uh beer cooler Sous V. Um I'm currently in the process of building my own immersion circulator, and uh it's just taking a little longer than I expected. Um as far as uh safety goes, is there anything I should really worry about when cooking like whole fish inside of a beer cooler? No.
+
+[29:59] Nope. Nope. No. Perfect. But yeah, are you uh are you a uh beer brewer?
+
+[30:04] No. Okay. But so the one thing you should, here's what here's what you need to do. You need to the outside of your product is gonna be cooked a little more than the uh in the inside of your product. It's the nature of the beast when you're doing this kind of work, okay?
+
+[30:19] The main thing you're gonna have to do is, I mean, are you gonna get the the standard home brew special, the got five-gallon uh cooler? Yeah. Yeah. So for those of you that don't know, like the standard like thing to to start your homebrew mashing in is is, and I don't know why, but the company got is the one that everyone gets. Geo, I think TT, five gallon cooler.
+
+[30:38] And what you do is is you drill a small hole to fit your whatever it is, uh, whatever thermometer you have, get a long stem thermometer, uh, and drill a hole in the top of the uh of the um cooler to put the thermometer in, pour in water that's close to the temperature you want to cook to. I'll make up a number 57 Celsius, right? And I'm making it up. Pour it in, throw in the thermometer, uh, and then wait. And um take readings every um every little bit, right?
+
+[31:08] And figure out uh figure out exactly uh how fast the temperature drops. You should be able over the course of a couple of hours to keep it within about five to ten degrees, depending on how good the cooler is, right? So now you know your temperature drop. So what you do is is you say, okay, uh now you the the second thing you need to calculate is the uh weight of the water that you're gonna add and the weight of the meat that you're gonna add, right? Then you calculate the temperature of the meat that you're gonna add, and the uh and then you have to calculate what you want the temperature of the water to be, right?
+
+[31:43] So let's say you have a 10 degree drop, or let's say you know you're gonna cook it for for an hour and a half, and you know you're gonna get a 10 degree drop over that hour and a half, right? So let's say you're gonna cook at 135, which is about 57, 135, is you want what you want your finished temperature to be. So you start you you want to do your start calculation with the water starting out at 14 uh five degrees, right? Does this make sense so far? Yeah, perfect sense.
+
+[32:08] Okay. So now you you you know you want a start temperature of 145 degrees. So what you do is is you say, okay, uh, I have let's say uh 30 pounds of water at and you want more water than meat, right? You I have 30 pounds of water at um, you know, at at what what temperature do I have to have that 30 pounds of water to be such that when I add five pounds of meat at you know 40 degrees Celsius, that when you add those things together, the water and the thing average out to being a hundred and um a hundred and fifty um a hundred and fifty, yeah, no, sorry, a hundred and forty-five. Sorry, crap, hundred and six.
+
+[32:46] It's very hard to do this. You see what I'm saying, right? Do you understand what I'm saying? Absolutely. So, what you want to do is you want to, and here in the easy way for everyone that I've confused with this, is uh it's really hard to do this without a piece of paper in my hands, is look up calculations that brewers use to do strike temperature, right?
+
+[33:01] And so it's called strike temperature, and that's the the the water that they use when they add uh barley to it, and they want the mash to come out at exactly the right temperature, they do the exact same procedure. So you can use the exact same equation. So I would just go down to any brewing site and uh Brutalheads.com has the strike water temperature calculator. Perfect. So just use that and you should come out all right.
+
+[33:23] Just make sure that you know what your temperature drop over the course of the intended cooking time is because it's typically gonna be longer than it would be for a brewer on mash out. On mashing, rather. Awesome. Um I have one other question for you, Dave. Just a follow-up from previous show.
+
+[33:36] Have you have you uh played with an aeropress at all? Played with what no, I haven't. I still haven't gotten one. We have an offer to have uh someone give us theirs. I would I as soon as I get one, which I it's just laziness and stupidity, is the only reason I don't have it.
+
+[33:50] But um no, uh why do you really like it? Um I've had mixed results. It I find it tends to make a very sort of uh flat cup. Um the biggest problem being that I think you're using paper filters with it, and they're not the greatest paper filters. I think uh you'd have a lot like I've uh a place uh has a clover, like an independent coffee shop has a clover machine.
+
+[34:14] I brought it in and compared, and they make sort of a similar cup because it's a similar technique. Right. But I think a metal filter would make a huge difference in allowing a little more of the oils and uh flavor to get through. So that that's just my observation. I've only had it for about a month though.
+
+[34:31] Right. Well, I assume you're on the West Coast if you went to a place with a clover. Um, I'm in uh Halifax actually. Oh, really? Oh well, clover clover's a little bit different because clover doesn't use any pressure, and theoretically there's some pressure in the aeropress, uh which is gonna probably change the coffee quality a little bit.
+
+[34:47] Um because the the clover is basically just using the piston to extract out of the grounds, it's not using it uh uh uh under any really elevated pressure. Um But yeah, and I need to I'll I need to I need to play with it. Coffee geek is obviously is a good place to go because people have done uh aeropress work, uh a lot of aeropress work. But um anyway, but please get back to us with the results of your of your got cooler uh cooking and tell us what happens. I will, Dave.
+
+[35:14] Thank you so much, man. All right, thank you. All right. All right, you do. And I we have one last question, I hope to get to.
+
+[35:20] I have to go fast because Nastasha's giving me that evil look. Um, okay. And unfortunately, this question's a little long. They say, sorry. If I add liquid to a Ziploc bag and then cook a chicken breast sous vide, isn't the flavor going to be leached out into this liquid?
+
+[35:32] I read in your low temperature primer that the water hot dogs are cooked in uh reaches equilibrium with the hot dogs, and so the flavor's not altered, and that this water is is reused all the time uh and so it's okay for the hot dogs. It doesn't change the flavor. But this uh it seems impractical at home, as I only cook chicken breasts every few weeks or something. Is there a way to safely store the stock uh that you use uh for cooking chicken breasts this way and reuse it? Straining and freezing the stock uh seem uh stock seems an obvious approach, but is that the best way?
+
+[35:57] Does the repeated freezing and thawing diminish the quality of the stock, or should you always add pre-made stock to it? All right. Um okay, here's my feeling on this. Uh you can freeze stock no problem and rethought. It doesn't hurt the quality of it.
+
+[36:11] The main problem with quality is uh with with uh with freezing things, as long as you actually contain them tight and you don't have uh oxygen touching them and and there's not a lot of fat in them so that they can go have rancidity problems. The main problem is actually just cells are being uh dehydrated and don't rehigh hydrate properly in freeze thaw cycles or gels break and things like that. You don't care if the gelatin breaks because you're gonna heat it again to the point where the gelatin's gonna melt again anyway. And there's no cells to lose quality. So soup can be and stocks can be repeatedly uh frozen and thawed as long as you're not like damaging them with uh oxygen content or if there's a lot of fat, or if you're having a problem like that.
+
+[36:48] Um so I wouldn't definitely I would definitely would not worry about reusing straining and reusing the stock again and again and again. You can also poach in a very, very small amount of liquid. Like if you're uh when I do chicken, I basically I will, and this speaks to the later part of the question, which I don't have time to to read. But uh when I do chicken now, typically what I'll do is I'll I'll salt them and actually add a little sugar because I'm a cheater uh instead of brining, and then I'll put it into my into my Ziplocks and I'll add a little bit of milk, but just enough to get a good seal on it. So it's not really sucking that much flavor uh out of the chicken.
+
+[37:21] Uh but uh that stuff actually is good as a soup base because it's got chicken flavor and you know it's salty already. You don't can't use it straight as is because it's usually too salty. But I I do that and then I use it for a different preparation, right? So you can do that, but that does dilute the chicken flavor somewhat, but not a lot. But you could definitely just reuse it.
+
+[37:40] Um the other question you had is adding liquid to a steak cook sous vide seems weird to me, especially if pre-seared. Uh, can I apply the principles you teach me on cooking the chicken breast this way to cooking steak or other meats? I would not add water to a steak in the bag or a liquid. I've done tests with stock, and it's okay. And obviously, we do uh super reduction of uh meat juices for when we're doing uh short ribs and stuff like that, but they're very, very, very reduced because they need to be not that much thicker than a braising sauce uh not that much thinner than a braising sauce, even after the meat exudes all its juices as it's cooking.
+
+[38:12] So I typically actually don't like to use liquids in the bag with a steak, uh liquid water based liquids. I use butter, right? So what I'll do when I'm cooking a steak in a Ziploc bag, and this is what I recommend to you, is I use butter. Uh and I and if you like garlic, a good thing to do is to chop up garlic and throw it in the bag with the melted m molten butter, uh, seal it, cook it that way in the bag, and then that butter is then immediately useful for garlic bread, which guess what? Goes deliciously with steak.
+
+[38:39] I mean, really deliciously. In fact, what I do is I pour out the butter uh and the juices that came out of the steak, strain out the garlic, because then you don't want that to burn, right? And the garlic flavor is already in the butter. Then I whisk the I whisk the meat uh juices and the butter together a lot, and then pour it directly on the bread, and then fire that bread while I'm searing the steak, and both things come out at the same time, and everybody is happy, even my hyper finicky kids. Um, I'm being told that we are out of time.
+
+[39:05] Is that correct, Jack? What? That was a yes. That was a yes. All right.
+
+[39:10] Well, listen, this has been a very fun episode of Cooking Issues, and come back next week and give us all your questions. Whoa! They say the bigger the headache, the bigger the peel, baby. Call me the big peel. Dr.
+
+[39:24] Funkenstein, the disco thing with the monster sound. The cool gooe with the bone transplant. Hip bone connected to my thigh bone. My thigh bone connected to my leg bone, my leg bone connected to my ankle bone. I get so hung up on bones.
+
+[39:47] Whole Foods Market celebrates Earth Month with the Do Something Real Film Festival. A collection of six provocative character-driven films focused on food, environmental issues, and everyday people with a greater vision. Come see one of the six features at City Cinemas Village East from Saturday, April 16th through Thursday, April 21st, every night at 6 p.m. Learn more about the films and special events at www.do something R E E L dot com. That's www.do something r-e-e-l.com.
+
+[40:18] Sponsored by Whole Foods Market. The following message has been brought to you by Fairway Market. What's the buzz about honey? Well, those busy little bees are up to something, and it is delicious. The Fairway label honey is superb.
+
+[40:33] Fairway only hires worker bees that are the best at what they do. This makes for a great tasting, high quality honey at an amazing value with the Fairway stamp of approval. And on top of being delicious, honey is a great substitute for other sweeteners and can even benefit your health. This includes better energy, respiratory improvements, and balanced blood sugar levels. It's a no brainer.
+
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+[41:54] That's R A K U T E N.
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+[0:00] You're listening to the Heritage Radio Network. Cooking issues will be live shortly. Dave's held up and he'll be here as soon as he can. And it's late. You got my head all twisted.
+
+[0:16] And I guess can't get it straight. You're listening to the Heritage Radio Network. I'm Sam Edwards. I'm third generation Cure Master from S. Wallace Edwards and Sons in Surrey, Virginia.
+
+[0:32] We support the Heritage Radio Network because we believe in the cause and what they're doing. They're supporting family-raised uh livestock, small family farms, uh certified humane, pasture-raised, antibiotic-free. Basically, we take the products from Heritage Food USA and make them into uh Serrano style hands, prosciutto style hands, bacon, sausage, like my grandfather did. You can find us at SurreyFarms.com or Virginia Traditions.com. Ah, Buddhap.
+
+[1:16] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues here with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, coming to you live from the studio behind Roberta's Pizzeria in Brooklyn on this rainy, rainy day. I just biked here in the rain, so I'm thoroughly soaked, negating any morning shower that I took. How are you doing, Nastasha? I'm doing okay, Dave.
+
+[1:32] Yeah? Mm-hmm. So last week, a big uh a big week for us. We moved all of our stuff, junk, crap, from the French Culinary Institute to the new company headquarters in Brooklyn. Can't believe I'm actually a Brooklyn guy now.
+
+[1:48] I still live in Manhattan, though, for all you keeping track of this kind of stuff. But our new offices are in Williamsburg in the uh in the milk bar commissary in the back. They have a little extra storage space. So we've moved up from a trash room at the French culinary, which was our former lab, reverted back to a trash room several weeks ago. We've moved up in the world to back of the warehouse space.
+
+[2:08] Right? So anyway. We haven't set up yet. All of our crap is literally in the pile in the middle of the in the middle of the space. I'm waiting for a couple of weeks to see whether uh see what I can do to build it out so we can actually have a sink and uh start cooking again.
+
+[2:22] But it should be exciting, right, Nastasha? Yes, it should. We haven't thought of a name for the new company yet. Uh we plan on making kitchen equipment, both for professionals and for home people. And we're gonna keep our hand in the cooking biz, right?
+
+[2:34] Mm-hmm. Yeah. So uh any names would be uh appreciated for the company. Any we've had only terrible ideas, right? Yeah.
+
+[2:41] Like it's like not even like many of them like not even able to be mentioned on the air, the ideas, right? Yeah. Yeah. Hor horrible, horrible, horrible, offensive, offensive stuff. Okay, so uh call in all of your questions to 718-497-2128.
+
+[2:55] That's 718-497-2128. We're gonna be here for the next 40 minutes or so. So please call in with all of your questions, cooking related or not. Mostly they're cooking related. Yeah, mostly unfortunately, right.
+
+[3:06] Okay, uh, by the way, Nastasha, are you keeping the surprise? What do you have for the uh the middle music, the uh break music? Did you mention that? I didn't even think of anything. Well, you have a couple minutes.
+
+[3:14] You can scroll around on your iPod for some for some good business. Nastasha's been messing with the with the music. We had two weeks of Hollow Notes and what do we have? Good morning, gents, uh, writes uh Urike Sterling. Uh I have recently become very interested in high pressure molding without binders, no egg, etc., of certain starches, namely different potatoes, uh tubers, I guess, yucca, melanga, etc.
+
+[3:38] I was wondering if any of you had any experience in this, and if not, where to look within the food manufacturing bids for such a request. Okay, well, I'm gonna make some assumptions. I encourage you to write in with more uh details about exactly what you're trying to do, but I'm assuming if you're gonna high pressure mold starch without uh you know binders such as egg, that you're talking about uh tablet formation, uh, you know, compressing into tablet form. There are other things, obviously, that you can do under under very high pressures, you can mold starches into plastics, but I'm just gonna, for the purposes of this and discussion, assume that you mean tablets. Uh so uh we've actually discussed this a little bit on one of the programs a long time ago, right?
+
+[4:17] Tablet making. It's actually something that uh we haven't done, or I haven't done, but uh am extremely interested in. I need to buy a uh tablet maker. Is it's it's on my list of things to do because we want to make our own uh tablets and mints. In fact, I almost got a consulting gig a while ago where we would have had to make a bunch of pills, but that what happened with that?
+
+[4:36] We just fell through whatever. Anyway. Um, so the deal is right that uh the different types uh uh I encourage you to look at this paper from 1987 by C. E. Boz, B O S, uh entitled Native Starch in Tablet Formations Properties on Compaction.
+
+[4:53] And it's a good first it's even though it's old, it's a good first starting for uh compression of uh of starches, specifically starches and native starches, because a lot of times when they're gonna make uh tablets, they don't use native starches. They use starches either that have been pre gelatinized or they use starches that have been um uh modified in some way, acid modified, or did different modifications to alter the uh properties of the finished tablet to make them harder, to make them break up either easier or or or or harder, things like that. But I will say this the actual type of starch that you use makes a huge difference in how the tablet is formed. So the way the tablet is formed is usually mix up the starch with and it's in the in the business, this is called uh an excipient. It's basically the non-active ingredient.
+
+[5:37] So you would be adding in whatever the active ingredient is, flavor or you know, aspirin, you know, uh whatever it is, a celsi acidic acid, whatever the heck aspirin is, I can never remember. Mix it in, and then you put it into a metal dye that's shaped however you want it, and you compress it. Now the compression is quite severe. Um I don't know exactly, but it's on the order of like 18,000 psi, like on in that order of magnitude, 18,000 psi. So it's easier for you to use much smaller dyes so that you don't need as much physical tons of pressure pushing down to make a make a tablet, right?
+
+[6:11] Now, uh typically also they'll add other things to it like lubricants so that it doesn't heat up and so that it flows well in the dye when it's compressing, right? So you'd think that you're not adding um any binders, but in fact, moisture, the amount of moisture that's in the starch is very important. So it it turns out that you want about 10% moisture, uh total moisture in the starch, which is kind of normal in a relatively humid uh environment out in the world. So even though you're not adding things like water, there are things like water present. Also, aside from the type of starch being very important, the um the way the starch is milled, right?
+
+[6:47] Whether it's in fine granules or in larger pieces makes a big difference on how the uh on how the finished tablet's gonna be. So it's a very complicated subject, one I'm very interested in, uh, but unfortunately don't know a lot about, but hopefully I've given you uh a good place to start, right, Nastasha? Mm-hmm. Yeah? Anyway, okay.
+
+[7:03] So, let's go to our next question. We just got something in interestingly. Uh listeners will know that we are interested in uh the uh irradiation of corn to make different genetic mutations. Uh turns out, uh we you know we'll call it nuclear corn. Turns out we got a uh a write-in from trying to find out who sent us the who sent us the post.
+
+[7:25] Here it is. J.R. Nelson sent us some interesting stuff uh this morning on uh mutation breeding. So that's the technical term the for you know new you know, radiating stuff until she mutates and forms new stuff. Anyway, so the technical term is mutation breeding, which sounds a lot a lot better.
+
+[7:41] But um J.R. writes in and says he came across a news bit today where the uh University of California Riverside, which is the uh people who handle a lot of the citrus for for our country, the germplasm for citrus, they basically I think I think they run the uh the United States' uh our federal citrus program, pretty sure, for germplasm. Anyway, I have to look it up. But UC Davis uh and I guess at New C Riverside just announced they created a new mandarin uh called uh the Kinno L S. Now Kinno is actually a very it's an old uh venerated uh mandarin.
+
+[8:12] Delicious. Nastasha and I had it when we visited uh uh when we visited uh uh Gene Lester's citrus uh ranch out in uh in Watlow. It's great. Uh problem is Kinno has a whole boatload of seeds. So what they did was is they just nuked a whole bunch of I guess budwood of uh kinnow.
+
+[8:30] They just nuked it uh and then you know, propagated it, and they got a kinno that had uh that had a lower sea count. Now they don't necessarily actually have to use irradiation, they just most of the time do. Uh they can use other sorts of chemical things, mugens, teratogens, things like this, to do it. But uh he sent that in and there's a picture of this new uh breed, Kino uh L S for l for low seed or less seeds. Uh so go take a look at another fine example nuclear oranges of better fruit through radiation right you know what the thing is uh I think a lot of people probably are freaked out by this kind of thing and it's the same kind of uh un you know unthinking uh fear of things that um that brought us the term uh NMR right so you're familiar with uh well you're not familiar with MRI feel familiar with MRIs when you go to the hospital you get an MRI Nastasha me yeah yeah MRI yeah magnetic resonance imaging yes you go and they take a picture of your body yeah well actually that's a phenomenon called NMR nuclear magnetic resonance and in fact they changed the name from NMR nuclear magnetic resonance to MRI magnetic resonance imaging because patients were literally afraid to get in a machine with the word nuclear attached to it.
+
+[9:39] It's crazy right and it's the other thing is that a lot of people are against uh irradiated uh foodstuffs for preservation right now there are several reasons to be against irradiated foodstuffs for preservation so basically you can take food fruits whatever expose them to very high levels of uh of gamma radiation right you know x-rays and and such things and kill all the bacteria in them right make them pretty much uh sterile as a preservation technique and you don't have to heat it right which is great and you can do it when it's already packaged with without heat so it's fan you know can be fantastic. Now there are some reasons to be against this uh to be against irradiating food one is it can destroy the texture of the food right then that's valid. Really think Nastasha that's a thought yes uh uh but there are uh are other reasons that are not valid for instance people think that somehow they are going to get uh uh cancer from eating irradiated food or somehow the food itself becomes radioactive. This is not a fair characterization of what happens. But it's another situation where uh you know adding the word radiation or nuclear makes something all of a sudden horrible in people's eyes.
+
+[10:39] So hopefully they don't get that feeling with uh with our nuclear corn and our nuclear uh and our nuclear mandarins, although apparently they're not gonna advertise that fact. Anyway, we have a caller there, Jack? Or are they just ordering a pizza? I think they're just ordering a pizza. Yeah.
+
+[10:56] You got a caller? All right, caller, you are on the air. Are there any studies that have proven that GM foods are bad? I can recognize this voice from through the radio. This is uh Patrick Martins, uh uh the person who's working with us on the Museum of Food and Drink Fundraiser, the founder of this radio network and the founder of Slow Foods USA and Heritage Foods.
+
+[11:15] How are you doing today, Patrick? Good, thanks for having me. All right, so um the question was uh uh are there any references on uh uh GMOs saying that they're actually bad? Well, I just read this quote from Bill Gates that says, I hate that all these sustainable food groups keep saying that our work is bad, you know, through the Gates Foundation, and that keep falsely accusing you know GM foods of being bad. So of course I'm being like, well, there's gotta be a study somewhere, but I haven't ever found one, and I've asked people, and no one can think of a study that proves that it's bad.
+
+[11:49] Yeah, it's because there isn't one. Yeah, I mean, but here's the problem. I think a lot of people, uh, you know, way back in the day in the uh in the 80s, right? You know, if you're familiar with Jeremy Rifkin, right? I mean, he would come out against any of these uh kind of genetic things, and basically, in in his mind, all things trace to some some form of awful Armageddon at the hands of people that are doing genetic um genetic modifications.
+
+[12:13] Now, there are arguments, I don't really I don't really know them well enough to uh to give them to you in any sort of form that doesn't seem derogatory to them, if that you know gives you an idea of where I am. There are arguments uh that there are things that can possibly go wrong. So one of the problems with GMO, one of the problems with GMO crops, right, is uh here's one. This is a real one. One of the problems with GMO crops is that you could you're Monsanto, let's say, or someone else, and you own a GMO crop, you now have a patent on that crop, right?
+
+[12:44] You own it. So then um one of your seeds, some of your genetics can get uh float over uh you know into somebody else's field, right, and contaminate their field with your uh genetics. And then um, you know, you're selling your product because you're a normal farmer, and then Monsanto comes and sues you for stealing their uh genetics, and all you've done is save your seeds year after year, and some of Monsanto's seeds have gotten mixed in, not because you've bought it or stole it, but because their seeds have fallen onto your property, right? And so there are some legal ramifications of GMO that have put some farmers in some pretty tough spots uh as a result of uh uh of of that kind of uh transfer, right? I mean, there's also the possibility that someone could release a some sort of uh gene into the environment that turns out to be harmful 10, 15 years down the road, but the same could be said of um breeding a plant, you know, nor normally or any sort of normal thing.
+
+[13:43] There's always the possibility with new with new breeding. So the the real question is aside from patent infringement and you know and the legal issues that are involved in there, the question is is how is genetically how are genetically modified uh products fundamentally different from um the breeding that's been going on for hundreds of years, and in fact, is espoused by the same people as being great, as that that hate the GMO, right? Those same people love the fact that we have thousands of cultivars that have been bred over hundreds of years and are being preserved generation after generation. That's considered an absolute good by almost everyone in the field. Everyone, including the people who are doing GMOs, because it gives them a base of gene plasm to work from and to and to add with you know to things with.
+
+[14:24] But um, you know, most of my criticism of it just comes from the fact that the GMO stuff is usually shooting at stuff that I don't care about. It's the other uh problem is is that it can add to monoculture uh problems. If they come up with something that basically, if there's fire blight out there, let's say, and they come up with a product that is resistant to fire blight and it becomes the only product out there, well then when the next disease comes, they'll get wiped out, right? So there's there's all of these kind of arguments of how it can be bad, but I I don't know of any fundamental reason why they're why they're bad. Does that make sense?
+
+[14:53] Yeah, well, thanks for your time. I mean, do you agree or disagree? Yeah, no, I mean uh well, I mean, I I wouldn't I'm of course instinctively I always think that I want to find something that, you know, maybe that at least to say the jury's not out yet as to whether or not a lifetime of GMO consumption is bad. And you know, but right now, you know, uh other than that, it's true, you know, it's to say like if we don't own our seeds, then you know, is that bad? But it relates to the patent infringement.
+
+[15:22] Um I mean, would you go so far as to say the jury's not out? Well whether or not it's healthy or not? I'm always I'm always willing to be proved wrong on anything. I'll say that I haven't heard any uh argument um that that shows that it's that it's detrimental to us from a health standpoint. Right.
+
+[15:40] And you know, and and people say, well, if you don't know, then you can't do it. But there's plenty of things like that in the world where we we've wait weighed the risks and and we do it, you know. Um I think um, you know, I sure I'm willing to be I'm willing to be proven wrong, but I think it's like everything else in this field. The GMO is a tool. It's a tool.
+
+[15:58] And it's um it and it's been used incorrectly by a lot of people to do a lot of awful stuff, you know. And I think that what we need to do is not focus our enmity on the tool. Don't don't look at the at the hammer as the as the bad thing. Look at the carpenter swinging the hammer as the bad thing. You know, it's so it's like look at the way these tools are used and get angry about that and not about the tool itself.
+
+[16:23] Exactly. Okay, interesting. Well, I agree. All right. All right, and and Patrick and Nastash and I are gonna be working very soon.
+
+[16:31] If anyone out there is listening, we're gonna be doing a search very soon for an administrative fundraiser for the Museum of Food and Drink, right, Patrick? Yep. And uh, and then in about what do you think, Nastasha? Six months' time? Yeah.
+
+[16:44] Six months' time, we're gonna be doing a fundraiser much like the one we did here in New York at Del Posto several weeks ago. We're gonna be doing one in uh the Bay Area. Am I right? Do we have the location hammered down, Patrick? Uh no, but we have a few people who would like to do it.
+
+[16:57] Um, you know, we've expressed uh time uh interest from Shea Banese, although they're dealing with their 40th anniversary. So when is there 40th? Yeah, 40th anniversary. Um so anyway, you know, it's gonna be interesting, and I think there's about 10 or 12 chefs that have already want to participate. So it's gonna be pretty kick-ass.
+
+[17:13] Yeah, so for those of you lunatics who missed out, you know what? Well, I was thinking about this. If we had just told people on the air that, you know, you're gonna have like one of the greatest meals ever, it cost 250 dollars and it and it didn't have anything to do with fundraising, it's it should have it it would have it should have sold sold out, right? It's like it's like we don't even basically even need to tell them that it's going for a good cause because the meal is was is that good. Am I right, Patrick?
+
+[17:33] Yeah, it was really one of a kind. I mean, everyone was saying that. No one had ever had a meal like that, especially with all that talent. Right. So when we do it on the West Coast, you fools better not miss it.
+
+[17:42] Am I right? You're right. Alrighty, all right. We're gonna go to our first break. Call in all of your questions to 718-497-2128.
+
+[17:49] That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues. Oh, Al Green. I'm so in love with you. Whatever you want to do. So brand.
+
+[18:34] Miss Aene. Since we've been together. Ooh, loving you forever. Let me the one you come find to be home to. The following is a public service announcement from Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[19:15] Join Linda Palacio for a taste of the past every Thursday at 12 p.m. as she indulges her curiosities about food, cooking, drinking, and dining of the past by taking a journey through culinary history. Linda interviews authors, scholars, friends, and chroniclers to learn about what was eaten, where, and how. From as long ago as ancient Mesopotamia and Rome, right up to the grazing tables and deli counters of today. The show underscores food as a lively link between present and past cultures.
+
+[19:46] Again, that's Thursday at 12 p.m. on the Heritage Radio Network. Welcome back to Cooking Issues. Calling all your questions to 718 497 2128. That's 718 497 2128.
+
+[20:01] So Rick Richard uh uh Kokovich called uh wrote in a comment on an ongoing discussion on the Aero Press Coffee Maker here. And it's gotta be the most embarrassing thing for me in the world that it's like a $30 item that we've discussed multiple times on this dang show, and we've had multiple questions about it. It's so easy to get. I could literally go on Amazon. One would show up at my doorstep tomorrow morning, and I can know from first hand experience how the dang thing is working.
+
+[20:28] And instead, through laziness and uh inertia, we have not done it. So let's make a pact that today, even we've even been offered to given one by some of our listeners, and we're just too lazy and stupid to take them up on it. So when this show is over, one of the first things I do before I order a delicious pizza from Roberta's and salad, which is what we always get as our post-show uh meal here. Uh I'm going to go on Amazon and uh Amazon Prime order us a an Aeropress coffee. Yes?
+
+[20:53] Yes. Okay. Richard writes in and says, Hi, I've been using my Aero Press for all my coffee needs, and he switched from the French press. And the comments that we've had on the show about the uh about the Aero Press's filter and flat taste are in his experience accurate. A couple of months ago, he had some guests for breakfast and whipped out the 51 ounce uh French press and the Aero Press, and the difference in flavor profile was noticeable.
+
+[21:12] The French press tasted brighter than the Aero Press with the same beans. Uh uh one of our listeners also mentioned that he thinks the filter is to blame because the paper is basically absorbing uh the coffee oils, right, and absorbing some of the flavor. And uh Richard uses the uh this filter uh several times to try and uh I guess saturate it with flavor so it doesn't uh uh uh suck any more out. But uh he thinks that's the reason that the taste is flat, and so he suggests that all the listeners out there, and we'll get one of these too is maybe is the Coava Disc, C-O-A-V-A, metal uh adapter filter disc for the Aero Press Coffee. So go check that one out.
+
+[21:46] Uh and check out the forums on coffee geek.com, which is uh, you know, I think probably one of the best websites for coffee that there is. I mean, I I used to go to it um all the time. Uh so anyway, good good to look at. But that brings us to coffee. Last week, what what day was it, Nastasha?
+
+[22:01] Tuesday. No, the coffee thing we did. Saturday. Saturday. Saturday.
+
+[22:05] Oh, yeah, Saturday. So Saturday night uh I judged along with uh um you know a couple other people the the latte a a latte art championship. So for those of you, I don't know, who've been buried under a rock for the last you know four years or so, latte art is where you uh draw pretty pictures in a in a latte uh and there's two different with milk, and there's two different ways of doing it. There's what's called free pour, where basically you just take a cup with espresso in it and you're uh pouring it, uh pour the milk into it. The milk has to be foamed in a very specific way to create something called a micro foam that doesn't have any big bubbles in it, right?
+
+[22:40] And the coffee has to be perfect with a nice crema, and you do what's called a free pour where you pour and you can make swans and and rosettas and tulips and hearts and all this. And you know, i i we judged on a various criteria like how good the contrast was between the darks and the lights, how symmetric they were, how much of the cup was being used. These guys are pretty good. They can they mean like I can't do it. I'm gonna be honest with you, I can't do it.
+
+[23:02] But uh what's really interesting is um is I was talking, and one of the judges is was the three-time uh Brazil all-time champion Barista. Her name just went out of my head, but I'll look it up. And she was uh she she was telling me we're talking about coffee, and I haven't really been involved uh with hardcore coffee espresso research in a long time. And one of the things that's happened in the past uh four years is um for those of you who don't drink espresso, start drinking espresso, but you know the what used to be a shot of espresso was a little under an ounce uh per shot, right? And so if you were gonna use like you would use like a 13 or 14 grams of coffee, ground coffee, to make like an ounce and a half to an ounce and three-quarter double, right?
+
+[23:46] That used to be kind of standard. Now people have upped it, it's like crept, and now it's gone up to like 16 grams of coffee, and they're pulling like an ounce out of it or less. And so that's you know, a ristretto, but rostretos have gotten preposterous over the past couple of years. Like you just get these tiny like little wisps of coffee on the bottom of your cup, and they're delicious, right? They can be delicious.
+
+[24:09] Um, but I'm just interested if any of our listeners, if they want to chime in, what they think about this creep towards hyper ristretos and uh what that's doing. It's definitely making us plow through a whole boatload of coffee. And so I started playing with it home, and I kind of I kind of like these like like super ristretto, but I'm trying to find a good middle balance. Anyway, that that's just a that's just amusing. Okay, Roy from Chicago, and I was supposed to talk about this at the top of the program.
+
+[24:32] Roy from Chicago uh wrote in, what happened to the blog? Are you still doing posts? A couple of things have happened to the blog, Roy. One, we were hacked uh about a week ago, and our site periodically keeps going down because uh of the hacking. So I know and I apologize to all of our listeners out there that um sometimes it's difficult uh to get into this site, and we're we're looking at it, we're we're we're trying to h uh hire a contract killer to go find out uh who it was that messed with our blog and uh execute them in a in a slow and painful fashion.
+
+[25:06] Yes? Yeah. Yes. He's still doing posts. Well, yeah.
+
+[25:10] The second thing is is that uh is that there has been, let's just say, a dearth of posts recently. Um I I am working to remedy that. Uh I have a post up right now that is uh still in draft phase about how uh about the museum, and I have at least five, six, seven posts in the wings waiting to be posted. Part of the reason that we haven't been posting, and these are just lame excuses, is because uh we're working we were working before very hard on the museum uh fundraiser, and then for the past two weeks we've been working very, very hard on on trying to figure out our new company and how we're actually gonna make a living and not uh, you know, leave our our f you know homeless, become homeless. Like that's kind of the main thing right now.
+
+[25:53] Um so uh yes, we will be we will be ramping up. As I said before, uh I will be contractually obliged to do for a month. We're gonna stick to that starting next week. I make it my pledge. Uh I'm also gonna try to start doing a lot of shorter posts.
+
+[26:08] I've kind of been uh slammed into these like two, three thousand, four thousand word posts, and it makes it very hard, especially because I like uh trying to get them as uh accurate as possible, and so it's uh difficult. These are just all stupid excuses. So, Roy, my apologies to you. And we will be uh up and running, hopefully hacker-free and also uh um more regular in the near future. Nistacha?
+
+[26:32] Uh yes. Any any comments? Uh no. You said it all. Yeah.
+
+[26:36] That that sounds like me. Alright. Uh, long time uh listener and actually person who went to our uh fundraiser, Colin uh wrote in, and he says, Dear flavor uh Dava Flav. I like that Dave of Flav. I always have to read his things relatively uh word for word so you get a feeling for his question, although sometimes I have to excise curses from them.
+
+[26:55] Anyway, egg yolks are kick-ass. I think I can say that. Right? Egg yolks are kick-ass, low temp egg yolks, especially kick ass. I have a few questions surrounding the gooey uh gooey golden orbs of goodness.
+
+[27:04] I want to end up with sheets of duck egg yolk that can be handled and drape over goose breast. For chicken eggs, I saw Alex and Aki, that's Alex Nackey of Ideas and Food, friends of ours, recommend uh 63.8 degrees Celsius, and my chart says more like 66 C. I haven't tried either with chicken eggs, but I tested them with duck eggs and found that 63.8 didn't seem firm enough. Uh I took them to 655 instead of 66 since it was preset into his old analog circulator. That yolk was still a bit gooey.
+
+[27:30] I thought, but don't have any examples to compare to other than the photos. The duck egg yolk seems a bit fattier to me, which might explain why it didn't seem as firm. Freezing after rolling out the yolk did help make it possible to cut and handle for about 10 seconds, but the whole sheet quickly got soft and goopy again. Strong enough to hold its shape when draped, but still a saucier consistency than I was expecting. Here are my questions.
+
+[27:49] That wasn't the question that was the prating. I've seen eggs cooked whole and then egg yolks removed for sheet rolling. Will egg yolks cooked to the same consistency as separated with raw, put in a ziploc and circulated to the desired temperature. This is what I did since I had other plans for the whites. Did I throw off the pH perhaps?
+
+[28:03] I don't know. I've never had a satisfactory answer for this, Colin, but I'll tell you this. Egg yolks cooked separately from uh egg whites do not have the same texture as ones that are cooked in the whole egg and then the whites uh used for some other purpose but removed after cooking. I don't know why this is. Wiley Dufrain asked me this, I don't know, maybe five years ago, and I didn't know why then.
+
+[28:24] I uh four years ago maybe I don't know why now. I've asked Harold, we don't know why, but when I'm doing a lot of these things, I will cook the, we will cook the yolks um in the egg and then remove them and use the whites as like uh as a uh cooked whites as an ingredient. There are dishes that I've done with egg yolks where I've mixed egg yolks with transglutaminase and salt and then put them into a zip and then uh and then cook them to create a sauce, but I've never done it for sheets. You can if you want to cook them separately, you can firm them up a bit by adding transglutaminase uh activa to it. It'll firm it up, especially if you cook it to the higher temperatures.
+
+[28:58] But if you add salt, that's gonna make them uh hold less. So you're not gonna want to add salt before you cook them. You can add salt after you cook them. It does make them look cool, it makes them look like icing when you add the salt. Okay.
+
+[29:09] Uh second question. If putting separated but intact raw eggs in the bag is okay, will the yolks also achieve the desired consistency if they're broken mixed together first? I've tried uh holding them whole versus splitting them. I haven't seen that much of a difference, but I think it might make a difference. So if you're gonna try and do it in the bag, I would hold them whole.
+
+[29:25] Um three, what procedure do you use when you make yolk sheets? Uh what I do is I cook them to about 66 degrees uh or or thereabouts uh for an hour, chill them, break out the yolks, smash the yolks together, uh, roll them uh between two sheets of plastic wrap and then uh and then and then cook them out. Yeah, I agree that Alex and Aki's 63.8 is too low. That's gonna be just barely set and not really good for sheeting unless you kind of freeze it out first. And fourthly, uh, last question on the eggs.
+
+[29:52] What are the differences between duck egg yolk and chicken egg yolk and how may this be affecting the texture I'm seeing? I don't know. They are slightly different. We've been keep cooking them the same temperature at the school, but I haven't done enough textures w uh tests with duck egg yolk to know for certain. Uh same with quail.
+
+[30:05] I do know that the proteins are slightly different, which is why it's easier to make uh transparent uh eggs with lye with duck eggs than with chicken. But uh uh come back to us when you get uh some more experience and see whether you agree. Caller, do we have a caller? Yeah. Caller, you are on the air.
+
+[30:20] Hi, this is hi, this is Brian. How are you guys? Doing all right, how you doing? Great. Um got a question.
+
+[30:26] I don't have a smoker. Thought about uh buying those Bradley smokers. Um, but I'm interested in doing some hacks uh at at home. Right. Um uh in either my Weber uh or in my oven or in indoors.
+
+[30:43] So I'm wondering if I want to do a DIY smoker setup, both both for um cold smoking and hot smoking. Um any suggestions? So you want to do it without um without buying the Bradley. Basically you want like as as as inexpensive as is humanly possible, right? Um but safe relatively.
+
+[31:04] I like relatively safe. Assuming you have an outdoor space, it's not gonna catch on fire. Um I have a little balcony. Right. So okay.
+
+[31:11] So you're live in an apartment, you know. Oh yeah, not a lot of space. I know. I know how that is. I know how that is.
+
+[31:17] All right, so the so hot smoking. Right. Hot smoking is relatively easy. So with that, you could probably modify the Weber just by putting like a hot plate that you get at, you know, uh the CVS or the right aid, whatever cheapest, like find one on the street, whatever. Modify a hot plate to use as your heat generator, and you could generate smoke that way in and it'd probably work in a Weber.
+
+[31:40] You know, they used to sell, and they I'm sure they still do, basically just cylinders, which were, you know, modified drums, like 30 gallon drums, and they and they had a uh you know just a crappy electric heating element in the bottom of them that you could adjust the temperature of so that your heat wouldn't go either too low or too high. Soak the chips and put them in uh in uh aluminum foil or something like that, put it on the on the heating element and go, right? And so then you know the next level on that is if do you want to temperature control that on the hot smoke side, right? Then you could do stuff like um add a PID controller uh that instead of adjusting the smoking temperature would adjust probably the draft the vents right and like turn on a fan and extract smoke out to adjust the temperature something like that, right? Uh so like you know that is you know relatively cheap and easy.
+
+[32:27] Now the question is if you want to do legitimate cold smoke, what you have to do is separate the smoke generator from the uh from the actual cabinet where you're where you're smoking. And so typically what people will do is they'll they'll build a box fireproof preferably that uh but you could use almost anything and put the that as long as it's not going to melt and then put the uh the heat generator in the smoke generator rather in that and then just take pipe like cheap uh uh cheap you know galvanized duct pipe that you could get at uh you know home depot or any one of these places and then connect the duct pipe from the smoke generator to whatever you're gonna smoke in and again that what you're gonna smoke in can be anything that is kind of food grade that's gonna take the heat so people use refrigerators people use uh whatever you know uh what as long as it contains the as long as it contains the the smoke then you um then basically you know if the smoke's not cold enough you either extend the length of the pipe or I know some people have like put water over the pipe or packed ice around to try and get the temperature down so now you can get a really nice cold cold smoke um but uh then if you want to actually then increase the heat in the smoking cabinet you have to put in a separate element to provide heat to the cabinet. Does that make sense? What do you mean by the separate al element because you've you well once the smoke is cold once the smoke is is cold smoke then if you actually want to cook at the same time with the smoke you actually have to heat the cabinet. Or I you know or you could just reduce the length of the pipe to a thing I guess to jack the heat up um or vent it less it'll eventually will accumulate uh will accumulate uh this stuff there's a whole bunch and I haven't built one uh in since literally since I was in high school was the last time I built which is you know a long long time ago I built one for my mom but um uh it's been a long time since I've built one just because I've been in the city this whole time and I and I don't even have a balcony which is pathetic.
+
+[34:22] Uh you know on the cheap side for a smoker if you want to get buy one that's a hot smoker that works fairly well and I know Wiley used it but it doesn't have anywhere near good temperature control is uh the uh I think Little Chief is the name of the smoker and it's basically a box with the heating element in the bottom. And that thing works great and I know people have customized that one. I think there's little chief and it might be a big chief. They've customized that one to get um to get lower temperatures. I know Nils did some work with that and like I say Wiley's been using that for a long time.
+
+[34:49] So that's a good entry level just do you s could buy that and then have the pipe set up as well. And then hack it. Yeah buy that one and you can start with hot smoking and it works great and is small and is like relatively friendly, like sits out and plugs in. It's not huge. It's like you know, can fit on a tabletop.
+
+[35:06] And uh and and that, like I said, that's the one that Wiley used for a long time, and and we got one at the school and Nills used it. And then um and then you can start hacking with that to try and get the temperature down by adding uh adding different controls or venting it more, or trying to remove the smoke generator from the cabinet. Mm-hmm. Got it. Um I I I have another barbecue related question, if I can ask it now.
+
+[35:30] All right. Um I've been reading about this Japanese charcoal, the binsoton charcoal. What's the what's the deal with that? It it seems like it's kind of smokeless, it lasts a long time. Um it looks really cool, it's an extremely expensive stuff, you know.
+
+[35:46] And so what they'll do is like they'll cook with it inside. I mean, look, Japanese they're cooking inside with charcoal and have for a long time. I guess they're not as culturally worried about the carbon monoxide poisoning as we are. Like, if you open look at any bag of charcoal produced in the US, it has warnings all over it never to ever even think of lighting it indoors, right? Uh and so uh those guys, uh the binshoton guys, I mean they they cook inside all the time with it.
+
+[36:10] And in fact, they did a demo at the school a couple of years back that had a really awesome uh they they built a sand pit that the binsoton was cooked in, they built the fire with the binshoton uh charcoal in the sandpit, and then we're cooking over that. Um and I I got to play with the charcoal with the binsoton and and look at it, and indeed it does have very low smoke output, right? Uh but here's the de here's the deal, right? Uh it's I can't dis I could not discern the difference between binshoton and high quality uh American produced hardwood charcoal, right? So if you go and you look at the bag of charcoal that you bought and it looks like chunks of wood that are black, right?
+
+[36:52] You were gonna be able to get the same results. This is my opinion talking here. This is not that I've done a side by side, but uh having lit a whole bunch of uh of like good old fashioned like hardwood charcoal, like it does to my mind the same kind of job that the bintroton does. It's just not nearly as expensive, right? They the the one that's not gonna work the same way as the bintroton are the compressed briquettes, right?
+
+[37:16] Those are gonna but it doesn't look like wood. Right, doesn't look like wood. And those things have usually been treated with uh often have been treated with something, right? So they're they operate fundamentally differently than these ones that look like chunks of wood. Now, the other reason why the Japanese system is theoretically smokeless, right, is because the way that they cook in it is they'll stick their food on the end of a skewer, embed the skewer in the sand, uh not over the bintroton, but next to the bintroton, right?
+
+[37:45] So the the heat the heat from the from the bintoton charcoal is radiating out and cooking it such that the fat from the meat is not dripping onto the the bintroton. As soon as fat and liquid start dripping onto the charcoal, I don't care what you're using, you're gonna get smoke, right? Right? Flare up. Right there's yeah, there's but but you know the the good news for flare-ups, and I've said this forever, and Nathan Mirvold and Chris Young have basically now are all you know, they say it in their book, so I feel like vindicated, is that uh that's where the flavor comes from, is the flare-ups.
+
+[38:15] You know what I mean? Like that, like or at least part of the flavor that I really like comes from this combustion that happens during the flare-ups. Uh and so if you don't have things dripping on the charcoal, you might get some sort of smokiness, and if you did, that would kind of negate any sort of theory they have that it's absolutely smokeless because you've got some sort of flavor off the fact that you've combusted something, right? But uh, but in fact, uh I like a little bit of that s that smoke and and combustion and all that stuff because I think that's where a lot of the good uh flavor comes from. But if you want to experiment with bintroton, I think you could build a like a sand thing and use uh uh like a high quality American hardwood charcoal.
+
+[38:52] It's not maybe as long as the Binchoton because they're very careful about the shape and the way it looks, because a lot of that is aesthetic in nature, right? I mean, a lot of the Binchoton has to do with uh aesthetics, right? Another interesting thing, it might get me in trouble about Jap the Japanese like the Binchoton thing is is that I don't know that they've uh that the people who are advocates of binsoton have done a lot of experiments with the American product. I think they just see the charcoal briquettes say, you know, Americans don't know jack doodley about uh charcoal, and therefore like this one has to be the best, not saying, hey, here's an American product that might perform the same way. That's just not usually how those demonstrations and discussions happen.
+
+[39:29] Do you know what I mean? Got it. Got it. Um so with the Bentoton charcoal, I might as well be putting something in the broiler because it's essentially smokeless. It doesn't seem to really uh it's it's not quite the same in terms of barbecue as what you're saying.
+
+[39:44] Right. Doesn't get those same flavors. I've never done a side-by-side, so I'm gonna I'm hesitant to to to say, yes, that's the case, but you know, for for me, I think that if you're not generating a lot of smoke, you're probably not getting a lot of extra flavor, except for the fact that the way that heat is being delivered is different, right? So assuming that you can get a lot higher uh heat radiation out of co uh coal than you can out of your broiler, especially your average broiler, then yes, maybe it's gonna give a better product, but insofar as it's smokeless, I don't think you're getting an any extra added uh flavor, you know? Great.
+
+[40:17] Yeah. Thanks. It's really helpful. I really appreciate it, Dave. Thank you.
+
+[40:20] All right, and on Okay, bye bye. Bye bye. On the way out, we got uh one last question from Colin. Does he do we have any suggestions for how to prepare a wild Canada goose? He wants to jug it in the form of jugged hairs.
+
+[40:31] Jugging is a technique where you cook meat, usually in a in a container, uh, with that, you know, it basically braises in it in a in a enclosed container and jugged hair and civets and things like that. Uh not civic cats, but civet meaning blood uh sauce with hair is the classic thing. Uh, do we have any suggestions? He tested his sliver at 60 degrees Celsius for 45 minutes, uh, and he didn't like it. And he tried seven hours at 58 uh degrees, and it was also too tough.
+
+[40:55] Uh couple things on this. I've never cooked Canadian geese, so it's hard for me to say exactly how to cook it. I will say this anything that kills those vicious bastards that Canadian geese are is a good thing. Canadian geese are the most vicious, evil uh creatures. If you've ever had them like land in your area and attack you as you're walking towards uh a pond or a lake, you know how evil they are.
+
+[41:17] Plus, they poop all over everything. So I encourage the legal bagging and cooking of Canada geese. So we have to come up with a recipe, Canadian geese, though. We have to come up with a recipe. I like them.
+
+[41:26] You like them? I think they're so pretty. You're from the West Coast, right? I know. That's why.
+
+[41:30] That's why. I was attacked by one as a kid. Yeah, they're evil, vicious, vicious creatures, as opposed to ducks, which are nice, and yet we eat them all the time. Geese are evil, evil. So that was Jack, by the way, our intrepid uh our intrepid uh engineer.
+
+[41:44] Okay. So here's my here's the the problem you're gonna have. Uh uh Canadian geese, the breast meat doesn't have a lot of uh connective tissue. So cooking it for a long time isn't going to uh tenderize it very much, in my in my this is my opinion. Now I haven't tried it.
+
+[42:00] I would try doing around 60 uh three degrees. It depends on how dark the meat is. I would try doing anywhere between 57 and 63 uh for uh 45 minutes. Sounds about right. 58 is gonna be too low.
+
+[42:12] I'm assuming it's gonna cook more like a chicken, you're gonna want to jack it up. I don't think seven he tried it for seven hours at 58. I don't think that's gonna work. I'm gonna I'm gonna have to Colin get back to you on this one. I'm gonna do some more research on old tough game meets.
+
+[42:24] I think it's an incredibly important thing for all of us to uh to pay attention to because I'm trying to encourage every hunter in the world to buy a circulator to cook their game meats, right? Every if you are a hunter and you are listening to this and you do not own a circulator, you are doing your meat a disservice. So we gotta figure out how to cook this, Colin, and uh so so give us a call, give us a right, and uh let's figure this out together. This has been Cooking Issues. We're coming back next week on Tuesday.
+
+[43:01] Oh, you dead. Whole Foods Market celebrates Earth Month with the Do Something Real Film Festival. A collection of six provocative character-driven films focused on food, environmental issues, and everyday people with a greater vision. Come see one of the six features at City Cinemas Village East from Saturday, April 16th through Thursday, April 21st, every night at 6 p.m. Learn more about the films and special events at www.do something real dot com.
+
+[43:34] That's www.do something r-e-e-l dot com. Sponsored by Whole Foods Market. The following is a public service announcement from Heritage Radio Network. The Snacky Tunes compilation has arrived and is available for free on our website, Heritage Radio Network.com. This compilation features live performances from some of the hottest acts around today, including Midnight Magic, Surfer Blood, Overhopper, and more.
+
+[44:08] Again, you can download this compilation for free on our website, HeritageRadio Network.com, and make sure to listen to SnackyTunes every Monday at 2 p.m. on Heritage Radio Network. The following message has been brought to you by Fairway Market. What's the buzz about honey? Well, those busy little bees are up to something, and it is delicious.
+
+[44:33] The Fairway label honey is superb. Fairway only hires worker bees that are the best at what they do. This makes for a great tasting, high-quality honey at an amazing value with the Fairway stamp of approval. And on top of being delicious, honey is a great substitute for other sweeteners and can even benefit your health. This includes better energy, respiratory improvements, and balanced blood sugar levels.
+
+[44:56] It's a no-brainer. Get your fairway honey today.
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+[0:08] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network. I am the host of Cooking Issues, Dave Arnold here with Nastasha, the Hammer Lopez, coming to you live from Roberta's Pizzeria in Brooklyn, New York. Coming to you every Tuesday from approximately 12 to 1245. Call in all of your cookie related questions to 718 497-2128. That's 718-497-2128.
+
+[0:30] Actually, Nastasha prefers the non-cookie related questions, right? I do, I prefer issues. Yeah, she he she prefers just straight up issues, and if you knew her better, uh you'd see why. Today's come on now, right? Today's episode is brought to you by the Hearst Ranch.
+
+[0:44] Hearst Ranch is a nation's largest single source supplier of free range, all natural, grass-fed, and grass finished beef. Since 1865, the Hearst family has raised cattle on the rich, sustainable native grasslands of the Central California coast. The result is beef with extraordinary flavor that's as memorable and natural as the surrounding landscapes. For more information, go to www.herstranch.com. That's www.hurstranch.com.
+
+[1:07] Hey, Nastasha, anything uh interesting happened this week? Yeah. What? I can't. Well, you can't devolve it?
+
+[1:14] No. Really? Yeah. Wow. I'm intrigued.
+
+[1:18] Do I know this stuff? Yeah. Oh, really? I feel like I feel like I'm being left uh hanging. I'm gonna hear I'm gonna Well, for all of you out there in internet land, I'm gonna get the real skinny when it comes to be pizza time.
+
+[1:32] By the way, the payment we get for doing this fabulous show every week is a pizza and a salad, correct? Yes. Yes, anyway. Uh not that we not that that's not good enough payment, Jack. Just talking about here.
+
+[1:43] Oh, uh diet? No, not diet. Regular doctor's pepper for you. Yeah, yeah, okay. Okay, here come the questions from Andrew Cummings.
+
+[1:51] Hi, Dave and Nastasha. I really like all the stuff you do, apart from providing me with tons of ideas. I think he must be from England. Oh, Australia, I guess he said, right? Because he spells tons in the British fashion.
+
+[2:01] Hmm. Reading your articles and listening to your radio show, uh, keep my passion for food going. Well, thank you. He's a food technologist. A an honorable profession when done right.
+
+[2:10] When done right. An honor very honorable profession when done right. Uh he's wondering if I can tell him anything about cinnamon and its gelling effects. A couple of years ago, he was working for a chocolatier uh at a small boutique store and saw that the liquid comp uh component of some panforte, which is a delicious kind of it's weird kind of candy dense sweet from Siena. I actually like it.
+
+[2:28] Do you like it? I don't know it. You know, it's that really dense, dark with all the nuts and the candy fruit in it. It's got the it's got the wafer paper on the bottom and it it stays good forever, and you slice it into discs into wedges. Is it like uh caramelli?
+
+[2:42] No, it's not. Imagine like a fruit cake without the cake. Hmm. Anyway, um, but it's it's real dense. Anyway, uh sorry.
+
+[2:49] Sorry for interrupting the middle of your question there, uh, Andrew. Um so he was making some panforte, and uh the stuff had turned into a thick slime, and he asked his boss about it, and he said it happens whenever he adds a cinnamon, and he looked around on the internet for some explanation as why cinnamon would cause this kind of gelling effect, but could find no academic papers on it. I'm guessing it's probably some polysaccharide uh similar to what's in gum arabic, but he'd like to know uh if it can be extracted and used as a future gelling agent. Well, I was not uh able to find uh any information on that, although there is a polysaccharide in cinnamon that some nut job has named uh cinnamon AX polysaccharide that has some sort of BS health benefit or something like that, but it doesn't say anything about its gelling properties. I doubt it's um exactly similar to gum arabic, because gum arabic isn't just it's not a bark phenomenon, it's a uh it's a sap phenomenon.
+
+[3:37] So gum arabic is a mix of protein, uh small amount of protein, and gum sap. Um, although there could be some residual stuff in the bark, and clearly there are many barks that are used for thickening. For instance, uh, you know, philae powder, uh, which is that the leaves or the bark? I always forget. Anyways, so yeah, yes, obviously there's probably some sort of um some sort of gelling agent in it.
+
+[3:58] Another thing is panforte is very, very thick and usually uses uh a boiled sugar component. So it's probably close to gumming up on you anyway. So the addition of anything that's gonna absorb water and have any sort of polysaccharide or water binding effect might cause it to gum up. But um, I'm interested in this. I'm gonna ask Maggie if I have m-naggy.
+
+[4:16] Niggy. I'm gonna ask uh McGee next time I speak to him if I can remember. An interesting thing is that um cassia, not regular cinnamon, but cassia, uh, has in it uh coomarin, which is an anticoagulant. So the exact opposite of making things thick, making things thin. Anyway, I was not able to find anything, but uh I'm gonna keep my uh ears out for that.
+
+[4:34] And anyone else, if you hear anything about it or have had experience, please write in and tell us because we're interested in that sort of thing. Okay. I'm gonna go on to Hello from Adam. Adam has a bacon-related question that he hopes we can help him with. You think so?
+
+[4:50] Baking. Baking. You think we can help? Yeah. I don't know.
+
+[4:54] Uh, okay. Uh this is actually a pretty complicated one, so I'm just gonna read it straight out. He said, you know, there are plenty of situations where you need to hydrate a dough to work uh to work it, but where uh the gluten formation is the enemy. For instance, pie dough, biscuits, scones, cakes, cookies, etc. To keep the gluten under control, you usually use low-protein flour, avoid overworking, uh, and then add a lot of a fat.
+
+[5:13] And the fat basically is uh is coating the uh the flour particles and preventing uh the water from forming gluten. Okay. So, and recently he's read about uh experimenting replacing water in a pastry crispy, uh in a pastry crust recipe with vodka, since apparently alcohol doesn't have the gluten-activating properties that water does, uh producing hypothetically producing a crust with even less chewiness than usual. This is true. Uh this is not only for pie crusts, this is also for batters.
+
+[5:37] So, I mean, the famous examples uh in pie crust land would probably be America's test kitchen. Uh Chris Kimball's um, you know, his show that he's Cook's Illustrated guy, where they have their uh pastry, uh their their pie crust recipe that includes a good portion of vodka in it, uh, does two things. One allows you to add more uh liquid so that you can make it a little more, it's not as uh it's not as flaky, it doesn't come apart in your hands, it volatilizes off and doesn't form a lot of gluten, so it can be rolled without it getting tough, right? So that's one application. Uh the second famous one is probably Heston Blumenthal's uh fish and chips batter, where he will add vodka to the batter to prevent sort of gluten formation to make it stay crisp without it getting tough at all, without the batter getting tough at all, and without having to add a lot of extra uh, you know, uh starch binders other than flour to get it to be uh where he wants.
+
+[6:25] So these are two very well-known applications of uh alcohol being used as the well, hydrates the wrong word because it's not water, but you know what I'm saying, to give the dough some sort of plasticity. So uh anyway, so uh he goes on and he says, it sounds like the holy grail of pastry crust is a dough with no gluten formation whatsoever. I wonder what would happen if you inhibit uh gluten formation entirely with the starch still being in granular form. I think you still want the granules to be hydrated to some extent, even if they're just swelling and setting uh together in an extremely delicate array with little uh intergranule entanglements so that you're not eating something that's gonna turn it to dust when you uh bite down on it. Well, okay.
+
+[7:01] Zero gluten formation, uh 100% zero gluten formation is actually quite problematic because it means the dough is extremely hard to work. This is why uh it's very difficult to work many gluten-free recipes, right? So if you're gonna make a I mean, people do make uh pie crusts and whatnot exclusively out of things like potato flour and rice flour for gluten-free recipes, uh, but these doughs are typically extremely hard to handle. The same way that non-flour dumpling wrappers are hard to handle. And the way that those are usually solved is that you will pre-cook, pre-boil uh a portion of your starch so that the starch will entangle itself a little bit to give you a little bit of structure so that you can then uh form it into a workable dough.
+
+[7:40] So a little bit of gluten formation uh can be helpful for or is always helpful usually in in formation of dough, not so much in batters. Uh so in batters it's not as as big a deal. But anyway, so he so he goes on, and his his last thing is positive, he's saying, a while ago I was talking about the free sauce stability of gelling agents, and this came to mind. What if we had a gel that had poor heat stability so that uh the gel is holding on to most of the water when you're forming the dough, but when it's heated, the gel loses uh its hold on the water and allows it to seep into the flour, um, and that would control the shape of baked goods and make it so that it had a fairly high water content uh without it for having a lot of gluten formation. Well, I'm not sure if that would actually be uh useful or not, but if you want to experiment with it, uh, because you know, in general, like very, very low water formation things still are delicious.
+
+[8:25] The classic example is shortbread, which is basically, you know, you take uh uh butter and sugar and a tiny bit of flour and just barely get it to hold together and you bake it. And is there anything more delicious than shortbread? No. No? You like it?
+
+[8:38] I know. Do you like you don't like it? I don't really like it. You don't like shortbread? No.
+
+[8:42] What? It's like hard tech. Are you nuts? Who made your shortbread? Who made your shortbread?
+
+[8:48] Jeez, my god. Shortbread like hard tech? My god! Anyway, I'm sorry for that outburst. Uh all right, listen, we have a collarbot.
+
+[8:59] I'm gonna tell you uh first, try an agar fluid gel. If you want to get something that's going to hold onto water, but at the closer to boiling point, we'll melt out. Capacarogene won't form a fluid gel, so you can't use it even though it's going to melt at a lower temperature. Hard tech indeed. Caller, you're on the air.
+
+[9:13] Hi, Dave. I love the show, by the way. Lots and lots of useful hints. I have a couple questions about hydrocolides. Alright.
+
+[9:21] Specifically, I've been using agar and uh guargum together. Sorry, Xantham and Guaragum to stabilize emulsions. Right. And I was wondering, do you have any tips for making them heat resistant? Particularly like a Hollandaise or a Verblon.
+
+[9:35] Okay. What guar are you using? Uh it's just just as guar gum on it, I got it from Will Powder. Okay, I don't know which um Will's a good guy. Taste it.
+
+[9:45] If it has a bad taste to it, it means he's sourcing, and it's no offense to him because I don't know what he's sourcing, but he's sourcing an inexpensive guar. Uh and if that has a beanie taste to it, this is before I answer your question. If it has a beanie kind of off taste to it, you're gonna want to call a company called T I C gums uh and get their theirs, which is called uh guar flavor, it's flavor-free guar NT 2000 or some crap like that, but it's flavor-free guar. And that stuff's awesome, right? That stuff's really good.
+
+[10:13] Now, Will might be sourcing that. So if you taste his guar and it and it tastes okay, then I'd I'd stick stick with it. Uh but if it does have kind of an off taste to you, then um I'd look into getting other guar. Now, what specific problems are you having with stability using that system? Well, what it is is it's uh uh a a reasonable temperature.
+
+[10:34] It's uh it's very, very stable, more stable than any Hollandaise or Burblan making. But I want something that I can pour onto the plate, like at the same heat that I would pour, like a demiglass or any other typical hot sauce. But when I get up to those temperatures, you know, like the 60 neighborhood, they uh the guard uh won't help it and it just splits eventually. So even at sixty, even at sixty, did you? Well, no, no, I wasn't I wasn't being that precise with my with my measurements because I'm not keeping it in circulators.
+
+[11:02] I was keeping it trying to keep it just in the traditional steam table where you don't have that c sort of control. So I was wondering like I have methyl cellulose, is there any other products that or or combinations or percentages that that will increase the uh the heat resistance? Well, methyl cell is m the problem with methyl cell is methyl cell gels when it gets hot, so it's gonna get firm is and it's not gonna stay portable. I'm surprised so when you heat guar, what happens is um guar loses some of its thickening power. It doesn't get damaged in any way.
+
+[11:31] When it cools down, it will come back to its thickness. But guar loses uh a bit of its thickness as it gets heated up. Uh unlike Xanthan, which loses its uh which only loses a very little bit of its uh um abilities when it when it's heated up. Now uh yeah, I wouldn't want to thicken the uh the guar at all because I mean add more guar because A, you're gonna start tasting guar and and B, it's gonna get too thick when it gets cold. Um I'm wondering whether the heat that the damage is actually happening to the egg proteins in it, right?
+
+[12:01] In which case it's like I'm to keep it as as more like a traditional Holland well, first I was doing Hollandaise uh that style, then I I tried doing Burblan and I had good results of both. But I'm trying to keep that uh uh original uh Hollandaise Burblan texture, and I thought if I if I brought my percentages too high, it it became a bit too well gummy, you know what I mean? Right. So I was wondering if if 'cause already I found that doing the Xanthan and the Guar together made good results. I was wondering if there was a third guy to bring in there that might bring some of that heat resistance without bringing my percentages too high.
+
+[12:35] Triple gum systems can be difficult because uh you can have multiple interactions with things. So what what you like you basically you don't have an emulsifier in there. What you the only emulsifier you have are the uh well the egg in the one and the and the milk solids in the other. So um you know both the guar and the xanthan, the guar is acting basically as uh as a thickening agent to prevent the the particles from glomming together, and the and the xanthan is acting as a weak gelling agent when it's not being stirred, right? And so that's basically your stabilization system.
+
+[13:07] You might want to move to an added emulsifier. So uh a good one in this choice might be gum arabic, right? So instead of using xanthan, we use a mix of gum arabic and xanthan called ticoloi, they're they're also from TIC gums, ticoloid 310s and ticoloid 210s, and it's a basically it's a mix of xanthan and gum arabic. Gum arabic is gonna act as your as your emulsifier, right? And then um the and the and the xanthan is gonna act as your stabilizer as a weak gelling agent when you're not stirring and sitting on the scene table.
+
+[13:39] I've made butter syrups, just butter syrups with that, that will sit on your bench or get heated indefinitely without breaking. So then if you're having further problems with breaking, you can add something like guar or even a starch to something like egg yolk to prevent the egg yolk proteins from being able to to to uh to coagulate and uh um you know and turn crappy on you. So you I would move to I would try a system of of gum arabic and xanthan, and an easy pre-mix one is a ticoloi uh 210 or 310 S, which they'll sell to you or sample out to you, uh, and or just get commercially available gum arabic and add it into that. Because I think what you need is to add an actual emulsifier. And the r the good the good news about the gum arabic is it's fairly stable over a wide range of heats, and it's also fairly stable over a wide range of dilution.
+
+[14:24] So if you were to then suddenly use a uh like f like like you could even fortify liquid into that Bur Blanc to to uh thin it out a little bit and it would still hold its sauce consistency. So it acts uh it's a lot more friendly than a traditional Bur Blanc, and it could make you could have like a base there that would be useful for a lot of different recipes. Right, right, great. So uh gum arabic definitely sounds like the uh the next thing I need to try. Uh can I hit you with one more quick one before I go?
+
+[14:48] Sure. The uh I heard you talking about uh gum uh like candies just a second ago, and I was actually planning on doing a wedding where I was gonna have candies at the end. What product is the best one to use to get that that sour patch kids kind of stretchy uh jellies. Well, so like the classic American ones, you want an American sour patch kid, those are gelatin. That's just straight up gelatin.
+
+[15:09] Uh and then I was I was using that now, it was getting like more kind of solid cuttable before it was getting stretchy. What uh what am I doing wrong? Um, I mean, I haven't I haven't uh it's been a long time since I've worked with anything like that. I've never gotten really good results. They but the from everything I've read, like the the the gummy bears are starch molded, and so it's all about getting uh you know that's why they have that poured looking back because they're molded into starch, right?
+
+[15:33] So it's like it's it's all about getting your moisture levels right and just not rushing it. Like those gummy bears take a couple days to make. So they're you know what I mean, and so it's it's all about getting the moisture level right and having them dry at exactly the right rate. That's why gummy bears, they don't last in the bag, right? You could tell if you got an old one because they turn hard and the and the young ones that are just right have the right texture.
+
+[15:53] So, I mean, I would look at you can look in some of the old books, like uh like that one I mentioned a bunch of weeks back, I don't have the name in my head, it's by Kirkland called Professional Petisserie from like the 1800s like early 1900s, because they have all the cornstarch recipes, but there are some modern books that also talk about that. I don't know whether Tora Blanca's book talks about that, but he talks a lot about cornstarch and molding, and it's interesting, interesting stuff. European based jellies are more based on pectin, but that's more of those fruit slice textures that your teeth sink into, and they're not the same as a gummy bear. Also good, and I think probably easier and faster to make. Yeah, all right.
+
+[16:31] What do you mean, bleeding? You mean from your tongue after you ate it? I hadn't dry them properly, but they uh they uh are the other thing I was I was doing half citric acid, half sugar, because I didn't want to cut it with pure citric acid. I think it was the sugar when it contacted the jelly, it started uh leaching water. Hmm.
+
+[16:46] That's interesting. It probably just wasn't I mean I it I've never done a coating of a candy like that. I I they probably make the candy first and then spray it with something so they can pan it. Do you know what I'm saying? So they probably have a I don't know that for certain.
+
+[16:59] I'm saying that I'm saying that out loud, just saying it, but uh that's how I would do it. Rather than try to control the uh the the powder and and the candy making at the same time. But uh in cornstarch or something like that. Uh well they mold them in cornstarch and then they probably they probably have something that they paint paint on to pan it. I'm not sure what, like maybe an alcoholic, and then get it to adhere.
+
+[17:19] But I I don't know. I'd have to look into it. But the citric acid shouldn't cause you any problems. But go ahead and get some other acids too. Get malic acid, get tartaric acid.
+
+[17:27] All right, uh well when I go and find my uh gum arabic, I'll uh I'll look for those two as well. Alright, give us a holler. Thanks a lot. Alright, thanks a lot, Dave. All right, bye.
+
+[17:35] We're going on to our first commercial break on cooking issues. Well, I know it's kinda late. I hope I didn't wake you. What I've gotta say can't wait. I know you'd understand.
+
+[17:59] Every time I try to tell you, the words just came out wrong. So I have to say hello in a song. Every time I'm near you, I just brought out of things to say. I know you'd understand. Every time I try to tell you the words just came out wrong.
+
+[18:33] Welcome back to Cooking Issues. So that was Jim Croce. We haven't had Jim Croce as our uh as our middle music before, right, Nastasha. Yeah, we love Jim Croce because I used to listen to it when my mom when I was growing up, used to play it all the time. But like she has this song where he's like, Nastash and I always joke about this.
+
+[18:46] He has this song where he's like, I know it's kind of late, I hope it didn't wake you. And then he goes on to like have this like like crappy love palm where he's like, I hope I, you know, I just called to say I love you in the song, but like so Nastasha and I always go through it, we're like, you know, it's the phone's ringing at 3 a.m. You pick it up and you're like, Who died? Who died? Who died?
+
+[19:04] Oh, Jesus. And he's like, I know it's kinda late. You're like, what? What? Jims, snap out of it.
+
+[19:10] Anyway, okay. We have a question from let's see which one we're gonna take next. We have a question from Johnny Hunter in Madison, Wisconsin. Hi. I have a couple questions about using Activa RM in dry curry meats.
+
+[19:22] Activa RM, uh, for those of you out there, not in the note is meat glue, the wonderful, wonderful, wonderful product that glues any proteins together. Uh, first, uh, does it work to glue two muscles together and then do a dry cure? He was thinking this might be nice as he was trying to do a dry cured ham without the bone. Uh, it would allow for better uh shape and uh and less air pockets, etc. That's true.
+
+[19:41] The way they do a boneless uh like a prosciutto is they actually cure it bone in and then they debone it and they have a very high pressure press that presses it into a ham-shaped mold. That's why all prosciuttoes are the same shape, because they've been crushed into that mold, at least the ones that are boneless. Um, so yes, this would work. Um this would definitely work. I mean, make sure that you add some, you know, it might help you because you could salt in that interior portion, and so when you're curing your own ham, a lot of times you'll get taint or lack of cure along the bone line because it's not going in, especially through the fatty areas.
+
+[20:11] And so this would give you an opportunity to get some of the cure on the inside of the meat, as long as you didn't oversalt it. And then uh you could still glue even over a light salting there, and you're not gonna get a lot of bacterial problems. I mean, the one main problem you're gonna have from doing it is you're going to be uh introducing bacteria into something and then gluing it shut. So you want to make sure that you're killing bacteria right away there. So I would definitely put um some some nitrites, nitrates rather, or trites, I guess ham traits, and some salt.
+
+[20:37] Enough salt to kill whatever ails you on the surface of that, because otherwise you're gonna be in deep, deep doo-doo. I don't want you to get anybody sick. Uh second question on meat glue was uh about um rolling cured bellies. Uh he mentions Thomas Keller's recipe in under pressure for rabbit bacon. I was like, rabbit bacon, that's crazy.
+
+[20:53] Rabbit bacon? That's a pain in the butt. Think of how small the belly on a rabbit would be. But he didn't mean that. He meant rabbit with bacon, not bacon made from the bellies of rabbits, because even Keller's not that decadent to like kill a thousand rabbits for one serving.
+
+[21:06] Although maybe he is, I don't know. Uh, I mean, I don't really know the guy, so uh so basically what Keller does is he layers rabbit up with bacon using um activa, using meat glue. Uh and and uh uh Johnny's tried this with a couple of different animals, including rabbit and goat. And after he cooks the bellies and slice them and roast them in the oven, they come apart. So is there any way to do it since the meat doesn't separate when it's cooked at a high temperature?
+
+[21:28] Thanks a bunch. So uh here's the problem. You're I read Thomas Keller's recipe in the book, and it's not apparent how much kind of uh meat glue you have to add, and he's laying slices of bacon together with like one layer of meat glue. You need to make sure, first of all, when you're gluing um things that have a lot of fat, you're not actually gluing the fat. What you're doing is gluing the connective tissue, the collagen and the different proteins that form the network of uh of the fat before it's rendered, which is why you can't glue rendered fat.
+
+[21:54] You can only glue glue what are you calling, native fat? Native fat? Yes. Yeah. Uh so uh basically if it's rendered it it can't be glued.
+
+[22:02] What you are gluing is the stuff that ends up being a chicharone if you were to cook it long enough. That's that protein residue. Okay. So you want to make sure that it all of it has a thin dusting of meat glue on it, and then even at high temperatures, the stuff won't come apart. If you brutalize it, like you fry it in an oven, sometimes the violence of the frying can make the meat pieces come apart, but the bond itself won't be damaged as long as you have uh enough meat glue such that um connective tissue is always touching uh connective tissue.
+
+[22:29] So I would make sure that you get both sides of any belly that you were doing. You might even want to switch instead of using uh Activa RM, using Activa GS, which uses gelatin as its bonding agent, it's gonna be a little bit stronger of a bond. And also you can paint it on to make sure you're not missing anything. Just don't add too much liquid or it's gonna be a problem. Uh Keller also recommends an under pressure using a like a like a sieve, like a handheld sieve.
+
+[22:51] Don't use that. Use like a cocoa duster because it's gonna get a much finer uh coating. So you should be able to get it to work if you if you do it. And on a side note, I had a lot of comments on our blog recently coming from nut job wing dang freak shows who are anti-meat glue because of some knee jerk reaction that they think they're going to the butcher and their butcher is serving them some sort of like hacked up piece of hamburger and selling it to them as a whole steak. And it's all based on some crappy, crappy uh expose in quotes, because it's not an expose, it's an expose of something that's not happening on a show uh in Australia called Today Tonight Show.
+
+[23:23] The show itself has an oxymoronic freaking name, today tonight. It's a dumb name for a show. Only, only, you know, I don't understand, like, unless you're a listener, in which case, producers, I love you or love your show, have me on. Uh but the basically it's bait it's saying that like some of the quotes that are absurd to anyone who's ever used meat glue before are um even an expert can't tell that something's been glued together with meat glue. And anyone who's ever looked at a piece of meat uh before in their lives can tell the difference between a bunch of scraps glued together and foist it off as a whole cut of meat and uh and one that's been, you know, that it's a real honest to God muscle.
+
+[23:58] So I think they're making a kind of tempest in a teapot about a problem that doesn't really exist. And they're also saying how it's a bacterial nightmare. Well, because when you're using meat glue, one of the things you have to be really careful of is that you're taking and you're putting um things that are possibly contaminated with bacteria on the inside of your meat, which before you thought was relatively sterile. Uh but the trick with that is is it's not it's not that that's unmanageable, it's just knowing that's what you're doing. And anyone who's properly trained using meat glue knows that they have to kill that bacteria that they put on the inside.
+
+[24:27] So I encourage all of the listeners of this to go around, find these blog posts with these morons who think they they also say, it's banned in the EU. Well, it's not banned in the EU. Thrombin-based meat glue is banned in the EU, not transglutaminase, which is from an enzyme. Thrombin's a blood clotting factor that's used as a meat was used as a meat glue is banned in the EU. And it was banned in the meat in the EU for dumb, dumb reasons.
+
+[24:50] It was banned because the morons who are doing the legislation couldn't think of a valid use for it because they're not cooks. This is another problem of a non-cook. And they saw too much of a problem where you might do something fraudulent, and so they banned the use of that, but didn't ban the use of the other one, which is more prevalent. The thing that makes me really angry about this is that it's so easy to bind together meats with crappy binding agents like carrageenin and like the way they make dog food. Everyone, when they see a bound piece of meat, thinks it's been bound with meat glue.
+
+[25:19] Meat glue is actually an expensive and nice way to bind things together without the use of a lot of fillers and gelling agents, which is how people can rip you off if they really feel like they're gonna rip you off anyway. So go out there and smack these people upside the head with some knowledge because they need it. Okay, sorry. Okay. And from Australia, this is from James.
+
+[25:38] Hey guys, greetings from Australia. I'm assuming James is not a member of the Australia Today Tonight show. Hopefully. Hopefully not. He's been enjoying the blog for a while, so it's probably not, and getting into the podcast.
+
+[25:48] So it's he has a question for the show. He's been struggling with oven spring in uh his bread for two years and he's stumped. So far, I'm gonna be him now. So far, I've managed to work my way through every single problem apart from the uh vexatious side bust out. So when he's cooking it uh the oven spring, what's happening is instead of going along where he slices the bread, he's getting a burst in the seam along uh along the bottom of the bread and splitting it on the bottom, which is not what he wants to have happen.
+
+[26:10] And he's tried uh all the different kinds of uh things you can try, varying his different hydrations from 60 to 85% using autolysis, which is a process where you start the uh the the mixing of the flour, knead it a little bit, let it rest for a while, and then and then meat it again. Uh mixing different batters, making different kinds of starters, different kinds of hydrate uh hydration, different kinds of mixing, different kinds of flowers, etc. etc. different kinds of form uh salt ratios, different kinds of risings, different proofing levels, different baking, yada yada yada. So he's wondering what the heck is going on.
+
+[26:44] Uh and so he says that sometimes he now uses a different uh steam technique where he it's called steam via ice, where every everyone who bakes bread knows that that steam formation from for many types of bread, steam formation in the very beginning of bread baking is extremely important. And so he's been trying uh one of the ways that you throw ice in, and it gives you a constant rate of steam because the oven can't evapor can't melt and evaporate at all quickly enough, so you have a steam that lasts a little while, whereas if you just throw water in, a very well-vented uh home oven will just obliterate the steam, and you're not gonna get enough steam. So he wants to know uh what to do. Well, uh I was gonna say that most times when you get a bad burst in the bottom, it's actually because you're using um you're not doing a good enough forming technique, assuming that everything else is okay, you're not like giving a good skin to it when you're forming it around. But you say you've tried that.
+
+[27:29] Um so I would go, I I you know when I have a question, I don't know whether the Brit baking community respects them, but I like going to the fresh loaf, which is a blog, uh, which is pretty interesting. And also there's a kind of a nut, and I appreciate nuts. Um there's a guy um named uh uh Steve B, and I forget what his uh what his uh blog is, but you can find him Steve B, and he he experimented with a lot of crazy stuff, and he found a steamer uh that is I for I also forget the name of the of the company that manufactures the steamer, but it's basically what you do is you take a hotel pan, you drill a hole in it, you put it over your bread as soon as as soon as you put it on your stone, and then you you you take and you rig up a garment steamer with a nozzle and you pipe steam into the hotel pan for like 20 or 30 seconds and then put it in the oven, and then a couple minutes later take it off, and that more closely mimics the steam that you're gonna get out of an oven. And I have never used it, but it looks really interesting, something you might want to try. And so, and there's a couple of people on the web now experimenting with these, like handheld steamers and hotel pants, upturned hotel pans.
+
+[28:30] So, um, I mean, I wish it was still wintertime. I mean, it kind of still feels like it, but uh, I wish it was because it's hard for me to do a lot of uh baking in the because my oven is gets like mighty hot, mighty, mighty, mighty hot. In addition, though, I'm curious about like what the actual mechanism of steam is because it seems kind of confused. People say multiple things that like I'm gonna have to do more research on the actual everyone knows that steam at the beginning helps the crust formation, everyone. But a lot of the scientific explanation seems kind of bogus, and I started reading some of the documentation this morning, but I didn't have time, so maybe that's something we'll deal with later on on a different uh on a different who's ewats it.
+
+[29:03] Alright. So, why don't we then take our second commercial break? And while we're going to it, why don't you remember to call in too? 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues.
+
+[29:25] Oh, could you help me please this call? See the number on the matchbook is old and fade out. Living in LA with my best old exprint rake. Gosh, it's such a new one and sometimes ADL. Isn't it doing these days go?
+
+[29:57] Let's poke it all up and give me the noble if you can't find it, so I can call it a couple of things. Following is a public service announcement from Heritage Radio Network. Tune in to the Speakeasy every Wednesday at 3 p.m. where host Damon Bolti will discuss cocktails, spirits, wine, beer, tea, coffee, and all things in the liquid universe. With guests ranging from bartenders and brewers, alchemists and ambassadors, roasters and regulars, and every expert and enthusiast in between.
+
+[30:27] Learn from some of the world's leading experts in mixology, bar history, distillation, and brewing about how we enjoy imbibing today. Again, that's every Wednesday at 3 p.m. on the Heritage Radio Network. You know, Jim Croce is visiting hell on that operator. Operator's just trying to do her job.
+
+[30:46] You know, and he's talking about his best old ex-friend Ray, who I admit is a jerk for running away with this woman. Or maybe the woman ran away with him. Well, it takes two to tango. Takes two to tango. Dear old best best old ex-friend, what is it?
+
+[30:58] Best old ex, yeah. Bad man. Jerk. Anyway. So uh so uh I have good news that I actually did something I said I was gonna do, and I ordered an Aero Press coffee, so I can finally say what I personally think about the Aero Press coffee.
+
+[31:13] We've talked about it a million times on the air. It only costs 24.95, so I ordered it on Amazon. And it makes a perfectly fine cup of coffee. Uh I might use it now as my as my take in my bat bag uh coffee maker, but here's what it doesn't make espresso. That's it.
+
+[31:28] It doesn't make espresso. But on an interesting note, coffee thing, I learned something recently that there's this thing called Cup of Excellence. Have you heard of this? No. Cup of Excellence.
+
+[31:38] So what they do is they get all these people from every different country. Every different country has its own cup of excellence. Uh a lot of coffee producing countries. And there's a huge competition where they're they're cupped again and again and again, and then the winner, and they're all these small lots are auctioned off, and someone has to buy the whole auction. So for instance, Dallas Brothers, who is one of the sponsors of the museum thing, we did the Latte uh art judging contest, gave me a bag of Rwanda's 2010 uh Copacama uh co-op Cup of Excellence coffee.
+
+[32:06] And uh it sells for a lot more than regular coffee. It's like $30 a pound green. Green, green, wholesale green. Uh and uh it was very, very good. Cup of excellence.
+
+[32:17] Go to to check it out, go to cup of excellence.org. Anyway, uh, so I thought that was interesting. No. No? No.
+
+[32:23] Yes, that's no. Moderately interesting. All right. You still have about 25 seconds, because I got two more questions to answer. To call in your questions to 718497, 2128.
+
+[32:30] That's 7184972128. Okay. Colin, good old Colin. Oh boy. What?
+
+[32:36] This isn't not he said specifically, uh, this has been a cuss-free question. Yeah, but it's also a controversial question. It is? Alright, well, let's read it. No, it's not actually weed, it's seaweed.
+
+[32:47] Nastasha only I read the first sentence and then I forward it at 6 a.m. today. Yes. That's what happened. That's what happens.
+
+[32:53] So she's like, oh my god, he's talking about weed. Seaweed. You know, with Colin, nothing is like what it seems. Uh in honor of the this is Colin speaking. In honor of the upcoming 420 holiday, although 420 is a holiday for me, it's my wife's birthday, but Easter is is actually Nastasha's birthday, which is 424.
+
+[33:10] Well, Jesus when he rose from the dead. Yeah, anyway, so yeah, so this year, Nastasha gets Easter. I've had Easter on my birthday before. Yeah, Jen's had Easter on her birthday before. One of those crazy ones.
+
+[33:24] Anyway, Colin has a question that pertains to weed. Uh, and of course, is there some sort of uh uh cannabis related holiday? 420 is the Jack, you know more. Wow. Oh.
+
+[33:39] So it's not Easter, it's some holiday that uh that us old fogies aren't familiar with? It's been around forever. Alright, whatever. Uh Colin has a question about weed. Of course, I'm not really interested in cannabis.
+
+[33:51] Of course you're not. Uh it's seaweed that catches your fan uh his fancy. Seaweed's uh salad is uh uh is freaking awesome with its Aldante crunch and ubiquitous sesame dressing. Since I don't speak Chinese, I guess or Japanese, I've been able to track I haven't been able to track down good uh weed to use in a salad. I see the fresh stuff in some Asian groceries, but the sections near the sea cucumbers where nobody bothers labeling stuff in English.
+
+[34:13] A project I've been sitting on for a few years is to try cultivating seaweeds in order to have fresh unlimited supply of weed. I just saw uh on McGee's uh On Food and Cooking that says Wakame Kambu and sea lettuce are commonly used in salads. Uh and so he wants to know if I have any tips uh what you should look for in market or what species make a good salad, any tips on prep, and have I, and since I've used saltwater aquarium before or made them, can do I have any tips on sourcing and growing some hydroponic weed. Okay. The problem is that a lot of the seaweeds that you use are too big to basically uh to basically grow in a normal situation, although things like wakame are and and you know, kelp and all these things are routinely farmed.
+
+[34:49] I mean, that's how they do it. Like you very rarely get wild anything anymore, but it's just they're so big that it's hard, it's hard to do. You can gather your own on the coast, which I've done a bunch of times with limited success. Unfortunately, I haven't done any research uh recently. Back in the day, the the book that you know that everyone had was called Cooking with Sea Vegetables by Sharon Ann Rhodes.
+
+[35:09] Unfortunately, it's kind of like, and this is nothing against anyone, it's kind of hippie dip, and I'm much more into like straight up, you know, killer information and like pictures, and this was looks like it was written in the 70s or 80s, and I've had it probably, you know, since forever, and it's like all black and white, and it's not really up to date. Someone needs to tell me if there's an up-to-date new uh new seaweed book. But how you use a seaweed depends a lot on what oh, if you want a good website, it's interesting. Uh the person who made it apparently doesn't want you to find it because it's very hard to find, but it's Seaweeds of the Pacific North Northwest by uh Brianna Gutschmidt, and her the website I don't have here the name of it, but she has uh Pendiva forward slash seaweed or something like that. But she has good pictures of all different seaweeds that you can get in the Pacific Northwest and how they taste because she ate them.
+
+[35:58] Cool. Which is pretty cool. So she has a good list. I recommend you uh you go to that. But Pendiva.com slash seaweed.
+
+[36:04] Wow, Jack's the best. Yeah. Anyway, keep it. He's on top, especially because you called him out. I know, I know that's good.
+
+[36:09] It's not right. It's not right. So not right. Um so anyway, I suggest you collect your own. I've done it.
+
+[36:15] Some people suggest against collecting your own because once uh seaweeds have been ripped off of their rocks, you don't know how cal long they've been batting around in the ocean, and therefore there might be they might be I don't know, rotting or something like that. But I've never died so far from collecting uh wild seaweed. Oh, by the way, going back, one thing you can raise in your aquarium by the uh is uh certain varieties of uh sea lettuce, green laver you can raise uh raise in an aquarium. Uh it's gonna be an expensive proposition, but you you should try it. And knowing you, you probably will, so you should probably give that give that a shot.
+
+[36:45] Um I think how you treat it depends on what it is. So, for instance, even something like combo, uh we use it in a salad after we've used it to cure and cook a duck. So, like Nils would have this old recipe where he would wrap a duck breast in combucks combucur current curing that is awesome, right? And then after we cooked it, we'd peel it off and then we'd slice it finely, and then you could eat it, and it was really crunchy. Same thing with makame.
+
+[37:08] If you don't over soak it, right, it's still got a little bit of crunch, you slice it thin, and then you can have it as a nice as a nice salad. So how you use the seaweed is gonna really depend on what state you get it in. You're gonna have to refresh it. Um and uh you know, you gotta usually it's dried, so you're gonna have to refresh it. If you get it fresh, I would just here's what I would do in general.
+
+[37:26] If you see something in that in that market, just buy the hell out of everything. Just buy every damn thing and then taste it, and then uh, you know, just try to compare pictures on the internet to what you can find. Because there's a relatively few number of ones that are commercially sold. You know, you know, your rokame, hijiki, uh, Arame, uh you know, lavers, nories, uh, different types of kelps. So you should be able to do a mix and match and then remember the characters' uh names.
+
+[37:49] I remember once I went to Chinatown looking for pigs bladder, which is legal to get in the US. And what I did is I went on uh I went on Google and translated pig's bladder into uh into Mandarin and then printed the characters out and then drew a picture of a pig with its bladder and then pointed to it. And I think I got my point across because they were laughing their their butts off, but they didn't give it to me, apparently, because it's illegal here. Alright. So, uh since we don't appear to get any more clothes, I will our last story for the day will be what we're gonna do tomorrow.
+
+[38:17] Yeah. We're gonna tomorrow uh eater. Really early. Yeah, it's a little too early for a burger, frankly. But eater is going to come to my house because I no longer have a kitchen anywhere.
+
+[38:28] We don't have a kitchen in Brooklyn yet, and I don't have a kitchen in uh the FCI anymore. Uh so since I'm kitchenless, I'll be cooking it in my house, which actually is a pretty I mean I have a sweet kitchen. Mm-hmm. No? Sweet kitchen.
+
+[38:40] Anyway. Um so uh we're we're supposed to do our version of the ultimate burger. Now the problem is that so many people have done their versions of the ultimate burger, right? You have the modernist cuisine version of the ultimate burger, which involves uh a lot of steps. And you, you know, they they cook their their burger for actually for a long time.
+
+[38:57] I'm not a fan of cooking a hamburger for as long as as they are. I'm not saying I'm not a fan, but it's not for me, because like certain types of meat can take on a kind of gamey livery note that I don't really that's not for me in a burger. Like for me, like the longest I'm gonna want to cook a burger is probably about four hours. That's about it. Uh not tomorrow because I'm not waking up that early to cook a burger anyway.
+
+[39:17] Anyway, so like you know, I also don't uh like vacuum packing burgers down because I think they get too kind of smashed. So I'm a fan, the way I like to do it is to take the the meat mixture and give it a quick fry to set it and then put it. I'm gonna grind bacon uh into it though. Okay. That's delicious, right?
+
+[39:35] I was thinking I'm I was gonna use a combination of short rib, chuck, and bacon, right? Grind it. I like a real loose pack and relatively thick and then uh fried uh quickly just to keep the surface uh intact. Then I'm going to uh put it into probably butter or maybe a maybe like a uh like a butter that's been mounted almost like a burblanc with uh with some some hyper reduced beef stock. I haven't decided yet.
+
+[39:58] Uh and then, because my wife, right? My my wife's birthday tomorrow, so I really shouldn't be doing this. It's my wife's birthday. Because you already did this. On her birthday.
+
+[40:05] Yeah, yeah, but listen, she's not gonna be there, it's gonna be in the morning. My wife is flying to Boston tomorrow, so I have all day to fix whatever I do, right? Get a new place. I'm not gonna get a come on, the place is fireproof. Anyways, I'm gonna get uh I'm gonna light uh because this is the best way to finish a burger off, right?
+
+[40:19] I'm gonna cook it in butter in a bag at about 55 degrees for a couple of hours. Then I'm gonna pull this sucker out, and then I'm gonna build a small bed of hardwood coals on the inside of my house under my hood in the mini Weber that I have. I'm gonna build the temperature up till it's about the temperature of the surface of the sun such that it's basically melting the Weber into my into my stove. I thought that's my Weber. Uh well, I let you have it.
+
+[40:42] You never took it home. It I bought it and was never reimbursed for it. So yes, I gave it to you, and I'm gonna use it one more time before you take it. You've had a year and a half or more to take it to your house, and you never have. I've moved it like three times.
+
+[40:55] Yeah, yes, you definitely have cooking issues. So anyway, I'm gonna fire it up in my in my house, and I'm gonna grill uh like hyper-grill it basically on the surface of the coal to put a nice crust on it. And then I'm gonna do my favorite bun. And here's my favorite bun. It's it's uh um sesame?
+
+[41:10] No, uh close. Uh beef on wheck style from Buffalo. It's gonna be caraway seed and salt on English muffin, homemade English muffin, and I think just regular cheese. I think just regular cheese. What?
+
+[41:22] Like American cheese? Uh something. I don't know. Maybe gre like grier. Mm-hmm.
+
+[41:26] I think grière. And then uh, and then I'm probably like uh the modernist cuisine do a really cool thing where they they take and they they flash infuse a uh uh tomato with uh like a vinaigrette or something like that, which is a really good idea. But since it's not tomato season, I can't get a decent tomato, I might just use pickled green tomatoes. Do the pickle and the tomato at the same time. I like fresh onions, so I'm gonna put some fresh onion on it.
+
+[41:47] Nastasha giving me the give me the stink face. I like grilled onions. Grilled onions, but this I have a freaking grill there. But I don't like uh I don't like to me, okay. This is a matter of personal opinion.
+
+[41:56] We can grill some onions for you, but the to me, a grilled onion is in between. It's not a sauteed uh onion, and it's not uh any it's this in-between crap. Raw onions give me nightmares. What do you mean? Like really?
+
+[42:07] Like how so? Why? I don't know. My mom told me. Well, wow.
+
+[42:12] Okay, well, the I'm gonna leave everyone out there with the image of Nastasha having onion nightmares, and uh come back next week for cooking issues where hopefully we can discuss some of these onion nightmares. Cooking issues! Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes store.
+
+[42:47] You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening. Whole Foods Market celebrates Earth Month with the Do Something Real Film Festival. A collection of six provocative character-driven films focused on food, environmental issues, and everyday people with a greater vision. Come see one of the six features at City Cinemas Village East from Saturday, April 16th through Thursday, April 21st, every night at 6 p.m.
+
+[43:19] Learn more about the films and special events at www.do something real.com. That's www.do something r-e-e-l.com. Sponsored by Whole Foods Market. In 2010, Escapemaker.com won an Emmy Award for their agro tourism web episode. So this year they thought, why not bring agri-tourism and green getaway ideas right to you?
+
+[43:47] Come to the Green Getaways Local Food and Travel expo on April 30th at One Handson Place, home of the Brooklyn Flea and former Williamsburg Savings Bank. Presented by Amtrak, Zipcar, and I Love New York, the Carbon-free event will be a day filled with food, prizes, workshops, and kids' activities. Over 50 getaway destinations, from counties to local farms and bed and breakfast within a day's drive or train ride of New York City will be exhibiting on the main floor and in the huge bank vault downstairs. See what's hot and sustainable travel and receive special show-only discounts. Grow NYC will be doing workshops on the Green Market, and Appalachian Mountain Club will offer workshops on adventure bicycling and hiking via MASH Transit.
+
+[44:26] Escapemaker.com will be giving away over 50 getaway prizes, ranging from Zipline Adventure Passes to an overnight stay at Mohank Mountain House. Travel greener, eat local. Come to the expo on April 30th. Get your tickets now at www.escapemaker.com. The following message has been brought to you by Fairway Market.
+
+[44:47] What's the buzz about honey? Well, those busy little bees are up to something, and it is delicious. The Fairway label honey is superb. Fairway only hires worker bees that are the best at what they do. This makes for a great tasting, high-quality honey at an amazing value with the Fairway stamp of approval.
+
+[45:05] And on top of being delicious, honey is a great substitute for other sweeteners and can even benefit your health. This includes better energy, respiratory improvements, and balanced blood sugar levels. It's a no-brainer. Get your fairway honey today.
\ No newline at end of file
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+[0:00] The following message has been brought to you by Fairway Market. What's the buzz about honey? Well, those busy little bees are up to something, and it is delicious. The Fairway label Honey is superb. Fairway only hires worker bees that are the best at what they do.
+
+[0:14] This makes for a great tasting, high quality honey at an amazing value with the Fairway stamp of approval. And on top of being delicious, honey is a great substitute for other sweeteners and can even benefit your health. This includes better energy, respiratory improvements, and balanced blood sugar levels. It's a no brainer. Get your fairway honey today.
+
+[0:44] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. I'm Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you live on the Heritage Radio Network. Approximately 12 to 1245 every Tuesday. I'm joined here in the station today with uh, of course, Nastasha De Hammer Lopez and Cooking Issues' own webmaster and friend Jerry Lavish. Hello, Jerry.
+
+[1:01] Hey Dave. How are you doing? Hey Nastasha. Hi David. Busy texting your buddies?
+
+[1:05] Too busy to do a radio show, are you, Nastasha? Alright. Call in all of your questions to 718 497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 with any and all of your cooking or non related cooking questions. So before we start, I'm gonna address a little blog business for those of you that go read the blog and I encourage it, even though I haven't been posting as regularly as I should have.
+
+[1:25] I have like 15 posts that I I need to write. And I need to uh get the ability to just jot off like a couple hundred words uh hit and hit post, but so far I haven't been able to to do that as much as everyone in the world tells me I should, right? Right. I for some reason I just can't do it. Anyway, uh so one of the things is Cooking Issues has a forum section that has apparently been overrun.
+
+[1:53] I'm putting Jerry on the spot here, but uh has been overrun by spam, and we are actually attempting to solve this problem, right, Jerry? It's actually solved. It's solved. See how little I know? It's been solved.
+
+[2:03] So Barzellet and all the rest out there, please come back. We love you, and we want that stuff to survive and flourish. So we have uh I guess who's running it now? You are running it and uh and also Vicky is running it, Victoria, or it's just it's just Jerry. Jerry's the man.
+
+[2:19] Jerry is uh a new father, a uh computer consultant extraordinaire, and we force him to do our blog work on the side. Uh Jack, is that a caller I heard coming in? Hello, caller, you're on the air. Hi. Hey.
+
+[2:33] Uh my question is uh fairly simple. I make pizza dough, and every time I do it, it seems to shrink when I try to roll it out. Hmm. Me well give me your exact procedure. I just make a regular dough, use a uh Kitchen aid usually.
+
+[2:49] Right. Um, food processor with the dough hook and uh a little rest and stuff arise. How long is the rest of it? And then when I go to roll it out, it uh you know, rolls out pretty good, but as soon as you I pull back with the uh rolling pin, it sort of snakes back into a smaller piece. Yeah, the first thing I'd look at is uh your the dough is probably fairly stiff.
+
+[3:11] I would move to a uh higher hydration, more more water in the dough probably is gonna help you. And I don't know like I'll give I'll I'll tell you this. I'll give you another thing is I would move away if you can from using a rolling pin. I find that to me it negatively affects the texture of uh of the pizza. It's g uh uh to me the texture is much better when it's kind of you don't have to be able to t flip it in the air like you know, like uh like a but you know, basically using your fist and stretching it uh is helpful to me.
+
+[3:37] I always liberally flower it before I um before I start, you know, pulling it out. Uh but I'll tell you my procedure in it in a nutshell and see if this helps. I use a fairly I don't use as high a hydration dough as the as the Naples sty style guys. I'm somewhere usually in the in the area of like uh 70, 75%, which is too stiff for real p pizza aficionados, but that's kind of what I do. I use a fairly high protein flour.
+
+[4:01] And so for every thousand grams of flour, I'll have in it roughly 700 grams of uh of water or seven hundred and fifty grams of water in that range, uh seven, seven fifty. And uh a little bit of yeast, and I allow it to do a very, very long initial rise. And another another thing, it's even more important than the kneading is is if uh to really good way to get texture is to make the dough uh the night before, break it into your pizza size uh chunks and then throw them into quart containers covered in your fridge. It's called retarding the dough. That's also going to improve your dough texture and flavor by allowing the yeast to act on it longer, but you have to use a smaller amount of yeast.
+
+[4:36] So for your t your texture rolling back, I would say one of the main things is is if you stretch it out, it won't pull back as much. There's always going to be a certain amount of snap back, but when you roll it, I think it's gonna snap back even more. Is this making any sense or is this not useful at all? Well, until I try it. Uh no, parts of it makes sense.
+
+[4:54] Um my general procedure, I start off with uh you know the sponge is pretty wet and as I'm uh kneading it, I I continue to add flour until basically it's sticky but it's not um or it's tacky but not sticky. Right. That sounds like a posted note sort of stickiness. Yeah, that sounds pretty good. By endpoint.
+
+[5:13] All right. Uh when I try to do it, uh I mean I'm not sure what it was uh you know, just try to push it on the board to sort of make a disc and let it hang and thin it out that way. Uh I find that works pretty good until I lay it down flat and then it, you know, it's like you know, elastic on uh your underwear sort of shrinks back in real fast. I mean I uh maybe you're not proofing it out uh enough. Uh maybe you gotta let it rise a little longer.
+
+[5:37] You always are gonna get a little bit of a little bit of uh a snap back. Have you done you can you pull a window on it? Have you done the window test? Is it stretched really well or is it? I can get a gluten window without any problems.
+
+[5:47] Yeah, so it sounds like your dough is is okay. It's maybe, you know, o over stretch it uh a little bit, a little bit thinner before you drop it, because uh invariably I get some snapback, but I don't get like rubber bandy snapbacks. Is the dough warm or cold? When you rest it, do you rest it at room temperature or do you resting it in the fridge? It's at room temperature, yeah.
+
+[6:05] Yeah. I mean, um and like I usually make enough so that I wind up uh dividing it up and and freezing parts of it. And then I thawed out in the refrigerator next day I let it come to room temperature uh in the room and it does it's does the same stuff. You let it do its actual second like it's it's proof out in the room, so it's actually rising and it's and it's dead at room temperature, not cold at all when you when you do it. Because if it's if it's cold at all, it will snap back.
+
+[6:28] Uh this is interesting. You know, if you here's a technique that no one no one say I do this, all right? No one's gonna say I do this. But um when I make pizza, I usually am making eight fairly large ones at a time, and I don't want to make them to order. So what I'll do is I'll actually I'll use a very minimal amount of flour just enough to get it on my fist so I can pull it out into shape, and then I throw it onto a piece of parchment paper.
+
+[6:50] It'll semi the pizza will semi-stick to the parchment paper because it's it it's you know, I haven't floured the parchment at all. So the dough will kind of stick to the parchment a little bit, which prevents any contraction. I'll then make my pizza on the parchment and I'll shove the parchment entirely with the pizza onto the stone for the first thirty-five, forty seconds up to a minute of baking, depending on how hot my oven is. Just until the bottom forms a crust and releases from the parchment. Then I'll quickly shove my peel and pull the parchment out and finish the bake out on it.
+
+[7:14] A couple of advantages of this. One, I think I'll solve your snap back problem with it. Two, um you can make a bunch of pizzas and put them on sheet trays and stack them up in your kitchen ready to bake, so you're not making pizzas every time you have to throw them into the oven. Um and so to me, those are huge advantages. The one thing you have to be careful of, especially because my oven goes up to 850 degrees, is the burning of the paper.
+
+[7:40] So what you have to do is after you put the pizza down, uh even after you do the sauce and and whatever, is to trim around the dough with scissors such that there's very little pizza overhanging the edge, and that'll prevent you from getting a lot of scorching or or uh or or burn marks on the on the paper. And then remember to just get it out of the oven, you know, after after it unsticks. So in my oven that's 45 seconds or so. Uh in your oven, maybe longer. I don't know how hot your oven gets.
+
+[8:05] Yeah, I I I it's about 525, you know, when I'm using it. Yeah, so you could let it go a little longer, but maybe that would help too, and also solve the problem of uh having to stand around in the kitchen the entire time your family's eating pizzas. Well, it's only two of us, so it's not a problem there. Yeah, yeah. For me, it's like always like 14 people, and so I mean, you know, it's it's a nightmare to make them, you know, as they go in, it just it just crunches me up.
+
+[8:25] But anyway, give that a shot, see if that helps out. Yeah, I'm just using AP flour, is that okay? Or should I be changing my flour? I mean, uh look, I've heard people make with all different uh hardnesses of flour, and I think obviously your hydration is gonna change a little bit, but I you know the my favorite pizzas uh that I make are made with uh surgalahad, which is a fairly high protein, like but really good, other than just the protein quality, just a really well milled nice flour from King Arthur, but it's not unfortunately generally available. When I'm making it at home, I you use uh heckers, which is a fairly their AP is a fairly high protein AP.
+
+[9:00] I wouldn't use like a southern style really soft AP if you're using like a good northern style AP um yeah that's a little bit harder uh I think it's okay or you can use the better for bread stuff that uh but I never use the the King Arthur's better for bread I either use their surgala hat or I use heckers. What about like Capanata Zero double zero? I've never used it I've never bought it. Um do you like it for pizza? Yeah.
+
+[9:20] Yeah I mean a lot of people are very particular on it but like you know uh I I'm I'm lazier than I seem and I seem pretty lazy. Coast where we have different flowers. Yeah you don't well see you're on the West Coast? Yeah yeah I mean I'm sure you have some really really good flowers out there. You have that real that artisanal mill whose name is flown out of my head for some reason in San Francisco.
+
+[9:39] You can also go to King Arthur the website. Yeah no they'll sell gr Sergalahat over the website and that makes a great great dough but it might be prohibitively expensive to ship it you know on a batch per batch basis. But if you make a lot of if you make a lot of pizza I know they sell 50 pound sacks that's how we get it but anyway I hope that how about the the the paper sounds like a good idea though right give that a shot next time around. Great thanks. Remember parchment not wax.
+
+[10:01] Alright thanks a lot for calling in okay bye all right uh okay we had an interesting comment in on the uh I'm extremely fascinated with this uh uh irradiation of seeds thing and it turns out there are other people fashioned uh fascinated with too so it turns out that after we dropped uh the you know the bomb um in World War II I think horribly especially the second one uh we then went on to do a whole series of nuclear weapons tests in uh in the air atmosphere underground underwater in the uh 50s and 60s, uh, which make for some amazing viewing, by the way. If you've ever seen the videos of them, it's just I mean a completely compelling awesome spectacle. Horrible idea, but completely compelling, awesome spectacle. So one of the things they did was they irradiated uh seeds, and the the reason they irradiated them was to see whether or not we could re germinate our seeds after we had been hit with a nuclear weapon, right? Now are our seed store stores gonna be obliterated, or the three people that survived the war, if they happen to have some corn with them, can they grow it again?
+
+[11:03] Okay. So that's uh, you know, that that was kind of the testing, but they found out they got some interesting mutations from this, and they started purposely irradiating uh seeds in an attempt to find seeds and uh shoots and and leaves and plants in general, because you can also get mutations on the branch of things, so called sports, right? And fruits. So um they were trying to get new varieties to find a peaceful way to use uh nuclear radiation. Uh and this spawned an entire movement.
+
+[11:28] Now I'm fascinated with it, but I don't really know that much about it. And we got a tip off from uh Tom Metcalf, our listener Tom Metcalf, who uh tipped us off to another person who seems extremely interesting. I've never met her, Paige Johnson, who's a a garden historian, and she has a blog called Garden History Girl dot blogspot.com. I never liked that blog dot blog spot sounds so weird. Black black black spot.
+
+[11:51] Anyway, she is apparently, and apparently from reading it, like one of the world's experts on nuclear uh on atomic gardens. She calls them atomic gardens. So I encourage you to read everything she's written on it. She's gonna write a book on it, and if you happen to be in London on the 7th of June, she's gonna give a speech on it at some uh like Royal Horticultural Society who ha thing of a day. And I wish I was in London because I'd love to go.
+
+[12:11] It turns out we used to do we used to have these things called atomic gardens. Here's what they would do, right? They would stick a uh a pipe into the ground uh full of like, you know, some some horrible, you know, gamma radiation, uh, you know, some radioactive element with again to cobalt something, I think. Uh they would sink it into the earth, um uh into a lead enclosure so that you could go look at the garden, and the garden was arranged in concentric circles around the radiation source, and then as soon as you walked out with your Geiger counters after you collected your irradiated stuff, they would raise the radiation source back up and start nuking out the uh the produce again. And there's pictures of them online, amazing stuff.
+
+[12:49] Anyway, so uh thanks Tom for that up update, and we're sure to hear more about atomic gardens. Man, I wish I could go see that speech. And you could also uh go to the wedding. In uh oh the well is that the seventh? Is that the same time?
+
+[13:02] He doesn't care. Yeah, you know, people keep saying though the wedding. I'm like, I know someone that's getting married. No, it's like but does it but do people really care about this royal wedding? Unfortunately, yes.
+
+[13:11] More so than the than the die and uh Charles thing? No, come on, right? Anyway. It's a natural extension. This is not the this is not the Royal Wedding show.
+
+[13:18] If you're this is the Royal Wedding version 2.0. If you if you tuned in to listen to uh to information about the Royal Wedding and whether or not What's her fang has gone into an anorexic friendly frenzy as a result of all the cameras on her, you've turned it in the wrong place. I'm I'm I'm saying this like this is like what people tell me. I don't, you know, I wish that my television was in good working order, but I no longer have cable because I told my wife she could cancel cable if I could do X, Y, and Z, never thinking she would actually pick up the phone and cancel cable. So I am cabless, I know nothing.
+
+[13:47] Thank goodness about any of this. It's gonna be on regular. But wait, you have an iPad. Yeah, but I don't you can't stream the news that I can. Not the news that I used to watch.
+
+[13:55] No, no. Anyway, but this is also not the does Dave Arnold know what's going on in the world program? This is only about well, not only about cooking. Anyway, call in all of your questions to 718-497-2128 committed. Wow, 718-497-2128 cooking issues.
+
+[14:38] Very superstitious. Right hand on the wall. The following is a public service announcement from Heritage Radio Network. Tune into Hot Grease every Monday at 3 30 p.m. Hot Grease strives to bring sustainability, localized sourcing, and other forward-thinking schools of culinary thought to the minds and kitchens of everyday folk.
+
+[15:30] Each week, Nicole Taylor's conversations cover the entire spectrum of food enthusiasts, from internationally renowned culinary masters to moms on a budget looking to impress their tiniest critics. Again, that's every Monday at 330 p.m. Hot Grease on the Heritage Radio Network. My favorite title of any program here on the Heritage Radio Network, Hot Grease. Love it.
+
+[15:54] Isn't that the best title ever? Mm-hmm. I wish we could come up with a company name as good as Hot Grease. Awesome. Hot Grease.
+
+[16:00] Anyway, call in all your questions to 718497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. Alright, so we have an interesting question in from Paul. Paul says, uh, hi. Hi.
+
+[16:11] I'm Jewish, and we're currently celebrating Passover. The first night of Passover com um comprises a Seder night, a big family meal with many readings, songs, and central to this question, symbolic foods. Yes, this is a this is true. Uh one of the many symbolic foods that appears uh on the central Seder plate is a roasted slash burned egg in its shell, which represents the Passover sacrifice from thousands of years ago. Preparing it is a royal pain in the blank blank blank as it has a tendency to explode and create a smelly mess.
+
+[16:36] In the past I've roasted it in the oven raw, and this year I first boiled it, then roasted it. Both times it exploded. I then tried making a s which is a nightmare. I then tried making a small crack in the shell, and this did not work either. Do you have any suggestions as to how one could do this reliably without having a huge cleanup job afterwards?
+
+[16:53] Cheers, Paul. Interesting question. Uh for me, especially for several reasons. One, I used to uh when you're in college, I found a microwave, and uh they threw it away because uh the cord had been uh you know broken and they didn't know how to fix it. So I just fixed the cord.
+
+[17:07] It was a zero dollar fix, and I had that's how I had my microwave in college, right? I didn't really use it to cook food. We used it to see what we could blow up in a microwave, right? So of course we did all the stuff that's now since become commonplace, marshmallows, CDs, which are awesome for about like one like half a second, and they form like like lightning fingers like the emperor is zapping you from uh Star Wars. Uh, you know, the the grape trick, uh light bulbs were always the best.
+
+[17:32] I'm we found a a case and a half of light bulbs, and I must have blown up the entire case and a half. 300 watt light bulbs are freaking amazing because they light up for a long time before they uh heat up the envelope of the glass and then explode. One time actually I had one blow up such that it didn't shatter, it just blew a hole in the side of a glass so it looked like one of those high speed photographs. Can't believe I lost that. Anyway, uh one of the fun things to blow up in a microwave is an egg.
+
+[17:55] The problem with an egg is that it doesn't reliably explode in the microwave when you nuke it. And you can nuke it for like like three or four minutes, and just when you think it's not gonna blow up, you walk up to turn off the microwave and bam, she blows up. And I have to tell you, it is extremely impressive, and there's no piece in there bigger than your pinky. And yes, Paul, it picky pinky, you know, nail that is. And yes, Paul, it does smell god awful.
+
+[18:16] So I feel for you. However, I have roasted eggs in the oven many times without them exploding. Uh, and I haven't done any particular prep work on them. And I'll I'll I'll tell you what w w why and what. So um uh Hervé Tees, uh, you know, uh a person that we like to make fun of here uh on in on cooking issues, he's a French dude uh who you know talks about he's the guy who keeps saying molecular gastronomy is a good term, no matter how much we tell him that that term is kind of disgusting sounding.
+
+[18:44] Anyway, it's his philosophy, his feeling anyway, that a 60 uh five degrees Celsius uh egg has a perfect runny yolk in it because he cooks them in the oven. Uh right. Anyone who has a circulator out there, anyone out there in circulator land knows that a 62 degree egg is runny and a 63 degree egg is set. Uh a 65 degree egg is most certainly not runny in the center. And is this may sound like a crazy like angels dancing on the head of a pin for people who don't cook using circulators and low temperature, but this is this is like I don't know, I don't know what it's the equivalent of.
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+[19:13] It's uh I don't know, it's it's crazy. It's just nuts. Yeah, bingo. It's like yeah, no, it's like cooking a cake in like a pizza oven at like eight eight hundred or like or like uh or like deep frying water. The only person I know who does that is Alexander Tat Talbot using uh methyl cellules.
+
+[19:28] Anywho, so uh it's crazy. But uh to the reason why it doesn't work is because you get evaporative cooling off of the egg when he puts it into his because he does it in an oven at 65, and as it's evaporating off, the temperature in the egg drops and it's actually only 62 inside the egg, which is why it works for him, even though it's theoretically flawed technique. So to prove and test this, I cooked a bunch of eggs in the oven at a fairly low temperature though, at like, you know, uh 250, 300, 325 in that range. Fahrenheit now. We're back on Fahrenheit.
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+[19:54] God's God's way to bake. Anyway, so excuse me, all you Celsius people. Anyway, uh don't worry, I cook meat in Celsius. So uh it's interesting is you can look at the eggs. If the eggs don't have marks on the shell from where uh water is evaporating out, and you can see them because they'll develop little brown spots uh on the egg where the stuff's evaporating off.
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+[20:14] Because as water evaporates out of the uh out of the shell, out of the egg itself, it undergoes myard reactions at a very low temperature, like similar to the way they would if you cook them in a pressure cooker, or if you did Hamean eggs by putting them in a pot and letting them cook overnight in a bread oven to eat uh you know for your uh for your Sabbath meal on Saturday night, right? So they should turn brown, right, in the shell, even without burning, right? Which is amazing. And uh but if you don't notice little um little bits of water or pinhole brown marks all around the egg shell, it means that that egg shell is sealed. So maybe your eggs are coated with something like wax, or maybe you have a really I use typically use crappy supermarket eggs that break really easily.
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+[20:53] Maybe you have uh like a free-range egg that is really like has a really good shell. Like I know uh Wiley Dufresne right now is doing an egg and he's using some really fancy eggs with really happy chickens. Those happy chickens have very thick shells, so he's having a really pain in the butt problem uh shelling them all. Um so I don't know what temperature you're running at, Paul, but try running at a sl a lower temperature, it's still gonna turn brown even at 350 or 325 because the Myard reaction is going to be happening at those low temperatures. So don't worry about having those temperatures not be that high.
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+[21:20] Uh roast it lower, and I've never had one blow on me using uh that technique. If you roast it higher, you you might be able to build up pressure fast enough to have it explode. Apparently you can because you've told me you do. Um so anyway, Paul, give that a shot and let us know how how it works out. How does that sound?
+
+[21:35] Sounds good, Dave. Good advice. We have. I think if you're not getting the little brown marks, that that the evaporative release is also release of pressure. Yes, yeah, exactly.
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+[21:42] So if you're if you're if you get those little pinholes, it means you're releasing pressure, you're not gonna blow it. If you're not getting pinholes, you're building pressure, she she's gonna blow. Right. Right. And just put cracking the shell in one place, especially here's another thing.
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+[21:52] If you if you actually if you boil it beforehand, you might be having some water trapped inside, might be harder actually to get the water out of the center. I wouldn't I I put them in raw. And you might be plugging the plugging the shell as well. I put them in raw, uh uncovered, uh, like you know, on the directly on the rack, which I shouldn't do because they might break. Uh and and that's uh that's how I do it.
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+[22:14] And I haven't had one blow yet. But maybe we should well, next time it's somebody else's house, by the way, I'll I'll try it at a higher temperature. And I thoroughly recommend that if you are gonna blow up an egg in the microwave, if you if at first you don't succeed, try again. It takes longer than you think. If every four eggs, maybe one of them will blow up, and please do it in somebody else's microwave, right?
+
+[22:32] Uh you know, someone that you don't like. Like next time you get invited to someone's house to a party that you hate and there's a million people there, and you can't believe you got invited there, just toss a couple eggs in the microwave and walk away. Don't really do that. Don't don't do that. I'm getting the look like I can't believe you're recommending this.
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+[22:45] I'm not, I'm not, I'm just kidding. When you're getting ready to replace your microwave, the last thing to do in the current microwave would be to blow up an egg. You would not believe what my microwave looked like. It had all kinds of scorch marks on the inside. Uh I mean, you know, I I've done every awful thing you can do to a microwave.
+
+[22:59] Well, I want to repeat that I could probably make the statement that no animals were harmed during the process of this testing. No, everyone always asked me to like, you know, have you put a live X, Y, or Z into No, no, no. Like, especially vacuum machines. Everyone, every s every class I've taught in sous vide, not the you know the one for professionals who come in because they they got a lot to worry about anyway. But like every class I would teach on it, they ever someone would ask me, have I put a live XY or Z in the vacuum machine?
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+[23:23] I'm like, no, no, no. No. Uh although I do have a friend of mine, and this isn't one of those a friend of mine, but it's really me, a friend of mine, who um threw a cockroach infested piece of kitchen equipment into the microwave because he just didn't know what to do. He's like, ah, like this, threw it in the microwave, turn it on, they pop like popcorn, is what I'm told. Yeah.
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+[23:42] I haven't done that in the microwave, but apparently that that is a true enough fact story. Okay. Uh Rolf Wind writes in. He says, Hello, Nastasha. Doesn't care for me, likes you better.
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+[23:52] Well, he's writing to me. Alright, fair. Uh I have a non tech question for the show sometime. It's not today. Today is a tech question.
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+[23:58] I've read widely disparate opinions on the suitability of previously frozen meat for making cured pork products. Specifically, I want to cure pork belly, which is a very good idea for bacon and panchetta and jowl for guanchali. Guanchali is one of the world's great products. Nastash's giving me a squinky face. How the heck could you give me a squinky face on guanchali?
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+[24:16] I overate guanchali. So? I don't like it anymore. I've over eaten lots of things. Yeah, I just don't like it.
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+[24:21] You don't what does that mean you don't like it? You like bacon? Mm-hmm. And you like panchetta? Yes.
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+[24:26] And you don't like guanchali. No, not really. It has like a sock flavor. No. That wasn't that was like moldy guanchali.
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+[24:36] Yeah, I'm here to say no. That is not the case. I prefer um there's a bunch of the artisanal guanchalis out there, I think a bit too dry. I like a little uh I like a moisture guanchali. For those of you not hip to the fact, guan chale is cured pork jowl.
+
+[24:49] You can cure it either flat or you can cure it uh rolled up or you can cure it flat and then roll it up. Um I I like them all. I I I the one I use is rolled up. It has a higher fat percent. And they make something similar in the South called jowl bacon, but um it's not it doesn't taste the same to me because it doesn't have the same spice mixture on that that I usually get from guanchali.
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+[25:08] Uh in my to my taste, there is no finer topping for pizza in the world than guanchali. Guan chali might be the best thing you can put on a pizza, if going back to pizza. And what I like to do is um if you just throw it on there, it doesn't need a lot of heat. You can just throw it on there raw and it'll it'll crisp up in chunks. I slice it really thin um because it's mostly the fat and I like the texture of the fat when it's real thin, and basically just the the heat looks at it and and kind of shrivels it up a little bit, but doesn't make it hard and doesn't take away from the uncuousness of it.
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+[25:37] Have you done a lardo in pizza yet? Uh I have, yes, I have. Uh I I like Lardo is also a good product. Do you like Lardo, Nastasha? So you like bacon, panchetta, and lardo, but not guanchale.
+
+[25:48] Folks, now you know what I have to deal with on a daily basis. I guess you don't like carbonara. No, I do like carbonara, but I use pancetta instead of panchala. Which by the way, on carbonara, please, now look, I'm all for authenticity, right? But we are in the U.S.
+
+[26:02] of A here. And the smokiness accentuates the dish very nicely, thank you. And I think bacon tastes delicious in a carbonate. No. Yes, it don't know.
+
+[26:12] You're wrong. I am not wrong. I'm not saying it's authentic, right? Authentic, like, you know, okay, authentic uh uh uh carts don't have motors in them, and yet I enjoy a cart with a motor on it to help me carry the stuff around. Authenticity isn't everything.
+
+[26:26] Dave, I'm gonna tell you that you may like bacon cream and noodles. That's a good thing, but it's not carbonara. Well, no, but I'm saying it's not authentic, but it's delicious. So for everyone out there saying that you that like somehow, you know, your taste buds are shot, or you know, it's just because you're an American or just because X, Y, and Z, hello, smokiness tastes good in that dish. It's just not Carbonara.
+
+[26:48] It's delicious. Yes, see, Jack? That's for last week's comment that I made here. Look, I'm here to say I'm look I also I'm a firm believer in having the authentic dish the way it's supposed to be prepared without any embellishments, without any changes, preferably in the location and by the people who make it. So you know, because a lot of times it isn't just the preparation, it's the specific ingredients that someone has in a particular place cook differently, they taste differently, the environment's different, their cooking utensils are different, the way they handle ingredients is different.
+
+[27:18] So if possible, you should go taste the uh taste the dish made by the people who are supposed to make it. However, once you've tasted that and you have a target in your head, feel free to do anything you want to it, including using bacon, which is straight up delicious. Um, I can't believe we've totally we've totally sidestepped poor Rolf's question. Okay, so he wants to cure pork belly for bacon and panchetta and jowl for guanchali. But the heritage breed meats that he likes to use are available to him only in the frozen form.
+
+[27:45] Does freezing alter the muscles in such a way as to change the salt curing process? And does the method of freezing make a difference? Aside from these specific specific questions, any insight on meats or cuts or applications that are especially freezing friendly or unfriendly, thanks. He like likes the show in the blog, regards Rolf. Well, thank you for liking the show in the blog.
+
+[28:01] We appreciate it. Here here's the story. First of all, it used to be in the United States that all the cuts of meat that you were gonna use for curing, uh, all the pork was frozen for a deep freeze, actually, for a while, to to cure any trichonella in advance of curing it, which also is going to kill Trichonella, you know, the parasite. Very few, uh, you know, the worm. I love a disease that's measured in worms per cubic centimeter muscle mass, right?
+
+[28:22] Anyway, so uh previously uh most, if not all the meat that we uh cured is uh frozen, right? Now it it turns out that um wait, there's a collar? Yep. Uh this is gonna take a while. So Rolf, I'm gonna come back to your question.
+
+[28:35] I'm gonna take the collar and come back and we'll talk about freezing and uh and meats. Caller, you're on the air. Hi, Dave. It's Brian in San Francisco. How are you?
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+[28:42] I'm all right, how are you doing? Good. Um so I got a bunch of gift certificates to like Amazon and Creighton Barrel and stuff, because I got I got married pretty recently. Congratulations. And uh thank you.
+
+[28:53] Um look into get some new pots and pans and just kind of upgrade from the the crappy um mishmash uh that that I have. And um I'm having some trouble trying to figure out exactly what to invest in. I I want to get stuff that's gonna last. And um what what are your recommendations? So you're looking for a like a standard pot and pan set.
+
+[29:19] I don't necessarily need it need a set, but um, you know, I ha particularly I have some pots that aren't aren't very good. I have uh w one pan that I like. I have some that are um non stick that are kind of old and and decrepit and and uh they're not so nonstick any l any longer. Um I have thought about cast iron, but I'm not sure that that's the way I want to go for for everything. Right.
+
+[29:46] Um okay, here here are my thoughts, and then you can bounce stuff off me. One, ditch the old uh ditch the old uh uh nonstick, get a new you should everyone should have at least one nonstick lying around. I have a fairly big one and a fairly small one. Assume that they will get obliterated over the course of a couple years and that you have to throw them away. 12, 14?
+
+[30:08] It's like 14. I have like a four but I have big burners. 14 and an eight, right? Yeah. And so I so I get those and and then I assume that those things are going to be uh gone after a couple of years of use.
+
+[30:17] Still I'm not saying to get a cheap one. Uh I don't know whether scan pan fix the problems that they used to have. Scan pan used to have some problems but they're fairly easy and they actually have a warranty on them so if you break them or you know ruin the coating you can send them back, right? Invest in one invest in one good pressure cooker. If you get a good pressure cooker like Coon Recon, even though it's a very expensive the pot itself is quite a good pot.
+
+[30:37] And so you can cook with it without scorching on the bottom if you're gonna do onions or something before you're gonna add liquids to it to do uh a braise or or a pressure cooker right get one piece of cast iron uh prev uh I have a whole bunch of cast iron but get like well I would not get a new piece of cast iron I would get I would go to seriously go to a thrift store and find a piece of cast iron that has a polished face on it. Cur current cast iron has a pebbly surface it's called as cast whereas they used to sometimes do a machine surface finish or sanding on the inside surface of the pan and those ones when they're seasoned are like glass and they're awesome right but they can't find a manufacturer enamel coated cast iron you want we want one that's well no enamel's fine metal enamel's fine for enamel coated cast iron I would only get a Dutch oven. That's what I have I have like the La Crusade Dutch oven but any one of those cat enameled staub, any one of those guys is going to be fine. But I mean is like I would get one uh I would for everything else. I think the cast iron's gonna be a pain in your butt unless you want to get a muffin pan or something because they're really heavy to lug around.
+
+[31:38] Um I would get um but I would I like having a cast iron uh skillet for biscuits and things like that, and and just because I every once in a while I just feel like it, I feel like having cast iron because you can put it on the stove and crank the heat really high and walk away from it and not worry about it because it's not gonna warp out on you and it's in and it's gonna be good. But I would get one from a thrift store or from a uh a used source, so long as it's not been scrubbed, it's not too rusty, and the surface is glassy smooth. And you it's hard to get nowadays because they're they're rough and pebbly, but I would get separately from your enameled one, right? Uh I wouldn't subject an enameled one to the super high heat that I would suggest a black, you know, put a black cast iron skillet on, right? Now for your standard pots and pans, I would go for any high quality pan that uh you like the that you like the look of.
+
+[32:26] Uh I use all clad at home, and they stood up to years of constant abuse. I don't have any fancy all clad, but I'm not shilling out for all clad either. It's just this is what I I use at home. And I get uh a fairly wide variety, you're gonna need a couple sizes of sauce, pan, uh, and you know, at least one small like uh like a skillet uh and then uh you know a larger stock style pot. It I wouldn't spend a lot of money on a giant stock pot.
+
+[32:53] The giant stock pot is the thing you should have that's cheap because you're only gonna cook liquids in it, and it does not matter the quality of the pot if all you're gonna be doing is boiling water in it, unless it looks so ugly that you can't stand, you know, uh looking at it in your house, right? So all of like I tend to go cheap on my huge pots that are only gonna have water boiling in them. Is this making any sense what I'm saying? Yeah, um what do you what what do you think? Um I'm sort of like uh I understand what you're saying about the every everyday pan.
+
+[33:20] And are those what are those made of? Like the Alcladd all clad are they steel what are they uh they have an aluminum core what's the yeah, they haven't they have an aluminum core and they have stainless steel uh um and a lot of them I think na now the a lot of the Alclads have uh um the ability to to go on induction fairly efficiently they have like I guess it's either magnetic stainless or or the stainless itself is good enough with induction that they can run induction or they can run uh or they can run off of gas or electric but you need that aluminum slug in the center for uh rapid and even heat conduction. Also the Alclad has an insane warranty. Really? I've sent I've sent two brands back.
+
+[33:58] I've never had two I've actually sent my sta my uh my non stick back twice and they sent me a brand new one. My one gripe with Alclad is that it the inside of the pan you can see where the handle is riveted on. Now I've seen in in the school I've seen those fail from is extreme abuse. But at home they've never failed but the one problem with them is is they are difficult to clean out around the rivets. But that's my only real that's my only real gripe.
+
+[34:23] Every other handle what'd you say? Little blow torch will help yeah yeah I the only uh the only time uh the uh only pans I've had that have had welded handles on I've broken those welds off so the rivets I've never broken. Um barkeeper's friend is also something that uh makes it easy to clean. Yeah get rid of the stuff so spend your money on the stuff that is gonna see a lot of high heat you're gonna be frying sauteing with don't spend the money on something that's gonna see mainly water the exception being uh I would spend the money on on like a coon recon uh pressure cooker if you can if you can afford it. They're expensive.
+
+[34:57] They're like they're like two, three hundred dollars right? Yeah for one pop that's expensive. That's like the cost of microphoney for a pot. Yeah, but but he's got to sp look he's gotta also buy all these other pots and pans. You know, but you for price of one uh uh you know coon recon and get the big one by the way, you know, you you could get a whole set of all uh a starter set of all clats, you know?
+
+[35:13] But the pressure cleaner is so. What do you think about copper? Um I you know I've seen some like copper lining. Do you enjoy cleaning things a lot? I mean just interior copper lining.
+
+[35:24] Usually the copper slugs aren't big enough to have that much of an advantage. Copper is a better heat conductor than aluminum. Copper is the ultimate material from a heat transmission standpoint, and they have a nice hefty weight to them. They're extremely expensive. If the copper is showing, they're very hard to clean and keep clean.
+
+[35:40] And uh the other problem is is usually a lot of the people that have copper pants, they don't have enough copper in them, so you're not really getting the advantage. Whereas the aluminum slug pans have a real thick slug of aluminum on the bottom of them. And you can look look at the bottom of your pan before you buy it. You should see it's gonna have like a little basically shelf of aluminum underneath that you can see it in m in many pans. The bottom of the pan should be like a quarter inch thick.
+
+[36:02] Yeah, they're thick, and that's what you really really want. So I wouldn't spend I wouldn't go the extra money on copper unless you like to polish things. Like Thomas Keller's like that, he likes to polish things. Well uh, you know, but that's the only reason I think the What I bought my copper slug eight years ago, ten years ago. That was when the aluminum slug really wasn't a big deal, and it was either copper or nothing.
+
+[36:20] Oh now I think that with the aluminum slugs, you don't it's not a big deal anymore. Yeah, I have all you know, and you know, uh then there's a question of for your cheap big stock pot, is it okay to go all aluminum? You know, do you believe that aluminum touching the food is bad? Um I don't. And uh one of my big stock pot is aluminum because it's very lightweight and it's very tough and big.
+
+[36:38] But uh like six gallons. I use my giant stock pot is a turkey fryer stock pot. Six, you know, uh, and that's really the cheapest way to get one of those things, but you have to be willing to have it's ugly, and you have to be willing to cook in aluminum. The only the only downside of that is I like to take that thing and stick it on an induction burner. Yeah.
+
+[36:54] Well, it depends on if you have induction or not. What do you have out there in San Francisco? Do you have induction, gas? What do you have? I have gas.
+
+[37:00] Nice. I like gas, although induction's awesome. If I if I, you know, but gases. Unfortunately, from an energy usage standpoint, still the way to go here in the US. Has this been helpful at all?
+
+[37:11] Yeah, this is a this has been really great. Um I also read something that like many restaurants basically they buy like uh cheaper pans um just because like they get so beat up, like you were saying, like at the school that they get really beat up and they just like go through them like every six months. It depends on the restaurant. So and it depends on the philosophy of the restaurant. I mean, I think like the finer restaurants, the philosophy is you treat all your equipment nicely, you treat all your food nicely, and you have decent stuff.
+
+[37:36] Now, if you know you're going to abuse something on purpose, right, or there's a uh a process that obl that obliterates things as a matter of course. The reason like why we use settle p sizzle platters and whatnot, those things are made of something that's not that expensive. But in general, the very high-end restaurants, they have respect for the food and the thing that touches the food, right? It's like a top-down respect for food that trickles down onto the plate and to the customer. In a less expensive restaurant where you're hiring someone who you do not trust, you know, there's no reason to hand that person a good piece of equipment because you don't think that they're gonna respect it.
+
+[38:07] You know you see what I'm saying? I mean, I'm a firm believer in not spending a lot of money if there's no use to it. But if if there's a use to it, right, if the heat is more even and therefore the food is gonna be better, then get a better piece of equipment and treat it nicely. You know what I mean? I I I do.
+
+[38:21] Um, and I I have some opportunity to get some nice stuff, which is why I why I called in. Um do most restaurants use like the all clad, or do they end up using like you know, fancy fancy French brands and stuff like that? It just that aren't accessible to um it's it's chef to chef, but I I see a lot of all clad out there. Well, a lot of restaurants they they exploit that uh that lifetime warranty. You know, after they've scrubbed it, they s they because they get scrubbed with a you know with a brillow pad, and when they get really thin and the you see it start to develop cracks, they just send it back to all clad all cats that's another one.
+
+[38:53] That's great. Great. Okay. It sounds like that's the way to go with the warranty. Okay, thanks a lot, guys.
+
+[38:58] Have fun outfitting your kitchen. Nothing's more fun than buying stuff. All right, bye. All right. So uh back to uh Rolf's question here.
+
+[39:04] So he's uh gonna cure pork belly to refresh you what's going on and the freezing what happens. When you freeze meat, uh what's going on is that uh especially if you freeze it slowly, is that you're not freezing the water on the inside of the cells. You're actually the water is extracted from the cells and the cells get somewhat dehydrated, the crystals form on the outside of the of the cells, right? Uh there's also a certain amount of the the fact that those crystals, then as you store them in the freezer, they grow and they shrink, they grow and they shrink, and they puncture the cells, right? Then as it uh thaws, the water needs to reabsorb into the meat, but but because you've ruptured some of the cells and because it's impossible to get all of the water back into the meat, you lose some liquid, right?
+
+[39:40] And that's what's called drip loss. Now things that are very fragile, like berries, you notice they just turn into a watery mess because all the shell uh the cells get kind of hurt, right? And that's really what's going on, is that you've perforated some of the cells and you've lost some of the moisture. So in theory, what happens in terms of actual penetration is that because you've ruptured some of the cells and there's a lot of liquid movement on the inside, you should be able to cure it faster, right? It would it will take the cure uh even faster.
+
+[40:04] So it's not gonna hurt um, it's not gonna hurt it from a curing standpoint to have uh frozen it. Now uh you there are some people I read on the on the internet because uh I didn't even know it was an issue. There's some people on the internet who think that it's gonna have more of a bacterial problem if you thaw it and then cure it, because I guess they're presuming that it's gonna take a while to thaw it out. Uh, but presuming that you have a good purveyor who froze it right, you know, when it when it was ready, shipped it to you frozen, and then you're thawing it and then quickly curing it. I don't think any extra bacteria from the time it takes to thaw is going to be a big deal.
+
+[40:39] In fact, you don't I'm not saying this, but you could probably start the curing process as it's thawing, even because the salt will uh help accept uh you know accelerate the um the thaw down. Now the one thing I will say is that you probably should not cure the bacon and then freeze it, because what happens is unless you have a vacuum packing machine, um cured meats, uh especially pork, because it believe it or not, that the fat in pork uh has a good degree of unsaturation to it, it's very unstable uh once it's been cured in salt and exposed to oxygen, has a tendency to go rancid. So if you freeze bacon and it's not in a very, very good um uh vacuum pack along with some other antioxidants like for instance smoke or maybe even some like you know, some uh add I wouldn't add ascorbic acid, but like uh something like sodium metabisulfide or something like that as an antioxidant along with vacuum. You'll notice that even in the freezer, uh your uh bacon will get rancid very quickly and start developing the off-flavors of fat rancidity. So I would definitely, if you were gonna deal with a frozen thing, uh not freeze it after it's uh cured.
+
+[41:41] I would cu uh freeze it fresh, thaw it, cure it, and then use it. Unless you're doing a super long cure when it's gonna stick out, stay out for a long time anyway, in which case the water levels are lower correspondingly your rancidity will be less. And believe it or not, the flavor that we like in a lot of old cured meats actually is partially fat rancidity, kind of in a way that makes it taste good, right? So it's not always necessarily bad. Like one person's rancidity is another person's delicious two-year-old ibirico uh bayota fed uh uh jamone.
+
+[42:10] So, let me see whether I've answered all of your questions. I th I think so. I would go ahead and cure and cure those uh cure those things. Now, one last question I have in from Brian uh Heslop. Uh he says the recent museum fundraiser sounds like it was incredible.
+
+[42:23] Uh and it was, right? Mm-hmm. Yeah. I'm very upset I missed it. Yeah, I know.
+
+[42:27] It was it was it was quite good. He has a question about Wiley's dish. Now, for those of you that didn't see the blog, Wiley's dish was it was called Bone Appetit Bone Appetite, and because I gave him caveman food. Uh and one of the things in it, you can go on the blog and look at it. One of the things was uh Inoki mushrooms that were uh looked like twigs, and he says, How did he make it?
+
+[42:44] And I forget. I think he soaked them in um in some sort of like flavorful broth like soy and then uh dehydrated them. And they they that's the only part of the dish I got to taste, and they tasted really good. Did you taste that dish? Yeah, but Nastash and I were actually running dishes.
+
+[42:59] No, you were, but yeah. Anyway, I was running dishes, and by the time I came back to try and taste the like the leftovers, uh they were all gone. Uh he had another question have I ever looked at importing gear from uh manufacturers in China? I've looked at it, but the problem is I never have enough of a minimum quantity order. And the other problem is that unless you know a specific manufacturer, I'll tell you some stories from Philip Preston, good friend Philip Preston from Poly Science, and it tries to import Chinese gear all the time, and he's had some things that he's had really good luck with and some things that he's had really bad luck with.
+
+[43:26] If you uh imp if you if you go over there and have someone build something to spec, then they will build it to your spec, and it will probably be good. I mean, a lot of really amazing stuff is built. For instance, modernist cuisine Jerry is looking at is was printed in China because the printers over there were so good. They were the only printers that uh Mirvold and Chris Young could get that would print the quality they wanted. Yeah.
+
+[43:48] Um so and I'm sure there's millions of blog posts out there on on uh how awesome the printing is on Mirvold's book, and it is. Uh and you know, Chris knows anyway. But um what were we're talking about before that? Since Nastashi interrupted me by by doing the watch point. Chinese.
+
+[43:59] Chinese, yes. So, but the problem is if you if you buy something over there that was built to somebody else's spec, it might not be your spec. So I know he tried uh a couple of uh um Chinese model import vacuum machines, and the problem was is that they look I mean they they weren't as robo as the ones that we get because that wasn't part of the QC process. But also if you vacuumed a lot of liquids in them, it fried some piece of componentry in there, it caused smoke and almost a fire, right? So unless you know something works, like for instance, like if you go online, look on on blogs for whatever people are doing, and people will have tried X, Y, and Z cheap Chinese stuff.
+
+[44:37] So, for instance, everyone I know who buys the miniature mills and lathes buys the Sieg ones that come in and they're all made by one or two manufacturers in China, and they work with some known problems, but everyone knows what those problems are and they fix them. Ditto with laser cutters, ditto with um, you know, certain like uh plasma cutting tools, things like that. So it's just look online and don't be the first person in the US to try it out. Anyway, so uh that's my that's my send it to Dave, and he'll try it out. Yeah, right.
+
+[45:04] If anyone if anyone wants to send me some crap for free, I'm happy to test it, right? Right? Sure, we have time. Yeah, yeah, right. Like we have we're made of time.
+
+[45:11] Anyway, this has been this week's cooking issues. Come back next week. Thank you. Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows.
+
+[45:33] You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening. In 2010, escapemaker.com won an Emmy Award for their agro tourism website. So this year they thought, why not bring agritourism and green getaway ideas right to you?
+
+[46:04] Come to the Green Getaways Local Food and Travel Expo on April 30th at One Hanson Place, home of the Brooklyn Flea and former Williamsburg Savings Bank. Presented by Amtrak, Zipcar, and I Love New York, the carbon-free event will be a day filled with food, prizes, workshops, and kids' activities. Over 50 getaway destinations from counties to local farms and bed and breakfasts within a day's drive or train ride of New York City will be exhibiting on the main floor and in the huge bank vault downstairs. See what's hot and sustainable travel and receive special show-only discounts. Grow NYC will be doing workshops on the green market, and Appalachian Mountain Club will offer workshops on adventure bicycling and hiking via mass transit.
+
+[46:43] Escapemaker.com will be giving away over 50 getaway prizes, ranging from Zipline Adventure Passes to an overnight stay at Mohank Mountain House. Travel greener, eat local. Come to the Expo on April 30th. Get your tickets now at www.escapemaker.com.
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+[0:00] The following program has been brought to you by Whole Foods Market. You may have noticed that one Whole Foods Market store is not like the other. We're proud that each of our stores has its own quirks, a direct connection to the surrounding community, and buys and sells their own products. Whether it's artisanal chocolates exclusive to Bowery, small batch pickles in Chelsea, or a featured craft beer on tap at West 97, you'll find that each store is a little bit different than the next. With six Manhattan locations, Whole Foods Market offers a taste of every neighborhood.
+
+[0:30] Come see us in Tribeca, Bowery, Union Square, Chelsea, Columbus Circle, or the Upper West Side. Open seven days a week from 8 a.m. to eleven p.m. For more information, visit www.smarket.com. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:58] This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you live every Tuesday on the Heritage Radio Network, uh from the back of Roberta's Pizzeria in Brooklyn. Here today with uh Nastash De Hammer Lopez. We might be joined later by Brooks Headley, pastry chef at Del Posto, one of our favorite restaurants. Calling all of your questions to 497 What? I'm 718 4972128.
+
+[1:19] That's 718-497-2128. Because for some reason it is impossible for me to commit this number to memory no matter how many times I've said it, and I usually have a little slip of paper in front of me that tells me what the number is. Uh and today I don't have it, so Nastasha's gonna have to to say it. Do you have any blocks like that, Nastasha? Things you just can't remember for one reason or another?
+
+[1:40] No. Nothing. Nothing? Nothing. Nothing.
+
+[1:44] Alright. So uh this is uh I guess this is our Cinco de Mayo edition, even though it's uh it's not. What day is it? Third today? Third, yeah.
+
+[1:52] Third. Anyway. So but uh today Nastash and I are going to be at the Lucky Rice Festival. I think you can still get tickets, right? Although they're expensive.
+
+[1:58] What are they? Oh, it's fifty bucks? $50 for nine? So you can come by and we're going to make some uh we're taking strawberries, uh blending them actually. Uh our intern Cliff is doing it right now back at the lab so-called in the back of the milk bar commissary.
+
+[2:13] Uh we're gonna blend strawberries and uh tequila. Uh I think we have a uh we have a reposado, right? Yeah. Yeah. And uh we're uh blending that um together, uh putting it through a centrifuge with some enzymes.
+
+[2:24] We get crystal clear strawberry uh tequila. We're just gonna squeeze uh some lime into it and uh stir it with some ice and uh haven't figured out what the garnish is. Have we figured out the garnish on that one yet? No, not that one. No?
+
+[2:36] Mm-mm. No. Uh but it's called mummy juice. Uh and the reason it's called mummy juice is because strawberries are grown in Mexico? Strawberries are grown in Mexico in Juan Ju, and that's also where they have the mummies.
+
+[2:47] So because it's strawberries and Mexican, it's mummies. So uh we're doing mummy juice today, and we're also gonna take some uh Bombay sapphire gin, uh blend it with bananas, spin it for uh another version of our gin justino, a drink we we like very much, gin justino. Justino means blending with bananas and spinning in a centerfuge with enzymes. Don't ask why. Uh and that one we're gonna serve probably with uh ginger, right?
+
+[3:10] Yeah. But they only gave us twelve bottles of each. So uh Nastash and I are gonna pour tall, kick fast, and then join the party as uh as party people instead of as uh dorks behind the behind the counter. True or false? True.
+
+[3:24] True, right? Okay. Um so that order of business is out. Uh we have a question in from Scott Hansma. Uh Hansma has a uh uh some comments on what he thinks the name of our new company should be.
+
+[3:37] And he says he likes the idea that if a Scoffier wrote today, uh he would have in addition to the uh roast station and the fish station a kind of rotovap centrifuge uh cool stuff station. So that we should call the equipment company something like Future Station or Eighth Station or uh Brigade uh Brigade Technologique if you wanted to be fancy in French. Well, actually I kind of like some of these suggestions. Uh I like a kitchen brigade sounds pretty sounds pretty badass, I think. Kitchen Brigade?
+
+[4:03] Sounds pretty badass. Of course, if Escoffia was writing today, he would write in English. Boom! Boom! But uh but uh that's just me.
+
+[4:11] So the uh but uh and I like these, and and I think we might actually maybe use one of those things for a line of kitchen equipment, but I think pending the approval of our partners in this, Stas, uh I'm thinking that we're gonna go with ready. Booker and Dax. These are the names of my two kids, right? So Booker sounds like you know, kind of like an old dude, even though he's only ten, nine rather. He sounds like an old dude who's kind of smart and knows what's up.
+
+[4:37] That's also true. And Dax is the kind of guy that's like, you know, you don't want to mess with him. Like this equipment's not gonna break. Who said so? Dax, Dax said so, Dax said.
+
+[4:44] Anyway, so I think Booker and Dax, uh, which, you know, name name of my two kids together, sounds like an old school company. What do you think, Stas? Yeah, no, I said I liked it. You like it, right? Yeah, Booker Index.
+
+[4:55] But I like this, uh I like Kitchen Brigade as a line of tools. Yeah, or brigade kitchen brigade. Yeah. You know who would come up with that? Booker Index.
+
+[5:05] Right? Yes. Anyway, so I'll run that, we'll run that past and we might have an announcement on that within the week, maybe, right? Once the are the lawyers almost done talking? Yeah.
+
+[5:15] Anyway, uh, thank you, Scott, for those uh for those questions. Now, Richard uh Kokovich called in, uh, wrote in and said he ordered the Koava disc for his aeropress after mentioning it in his previous email. We spoke about it on a uh on an earlier thing. It's a basically a uh fine mesh filter that fits into the AeroPress, which is the cheap kind of like uh piston-based uh coffee maker that we've been talking about, says that he likes it uh very much, so that's good. Uh and then he uh mentioned because we were talking about the Thermomix last week, someone brought a brawn Thermomix, which is a uh an old uh mergeon circulator.
+
+[5:46] He wants to know about the Thermomix proper. Uh Thermomix proper. Um he said he's been interested in the device. It looks like they're no longer distributed in the US, though there's a Canadian distributor who allegedly shipped to the U.S., so there's not much in the way of reviews. Um he sees that most reviews that are written are not by the type of people who would heat uh silicon carbide bricks in the microwave for steering.
+
+[6:05] That would be us. That'd be us. Uh have we ever had the opportunity to put a thermomix through its paces? Um and you know, it's yes, I have. We don't have one anymore because it got stolen.
+
+[6:16] So what the thermomix is, for those of you that don't know, it is a blender with like a little almost like a food processor blade. Um, but the bowl is also a scale, which is useful. Um it's useful. It's not a very accurate scale, but it's pretty useful. And also a heating device.
+
+[6:31] So it uh it can heat while it blends, uh, which is useful for certain things like uh in hydrocolloids, like if you're gonna do gel-an, you can heat and stir at the same time, agitate and keep it hot so you don't have to worry about it uh you know gelling up on you as it cools down. So, yes, it's useful for that. It's useful for making certain kinds of hot foams. It makes an awesome kind of cheese sauce that because it keeps stirring it when it doesn't burn while it's cooking, so it's great. Uh it's good to weigh things out.
+
+[6:58] It's not the world's greatest blender, but it is really cool, but it's very, very, very expensive. It costs in the US roughly what two Vitapreps would cost. Okay. Um I don't think it's worth two Vitapeps. I would rather have two, like, like unless you're at home, I would rather have two Vitapeps in my kitchen than one Thermomix.
+
+[7:18] Now, all of the European uh chefs, they love the Thermomix because in Europe, the Thermomix is it's around. It's a it's like consumers use it like they would use a Kitchenator or anything else. I think it probably is a little bit cheaper in Europe, where conversely, Vita Preps are very expensive, which are the high power blenders that we all use, they are very expensive over there. So there's very few vita preps in Europe and very many thermal mixes, the exact uh opposite of here. Uh the Vitapep kicks the crap out of the thermomix as a blender, but there is other there are other things that uh the thermomix can do.
+
+[7:50] We're actually uh Brooks just showed up, so he's gonna I'm gonna pass do you guys have any thermal, you know, the thermal mixes? You ever uh play around with them? Uh no, actually we don't have one. Um I'm terrified of them. Right really?
+
+[8:01] You say that's funny. But they you know they like a lot of the stuff that they serve at the Thermomix that they sell with it is is like hoo-ha, it's nonsense. Like you don't need the steaming basket because you can just steam with it. I don't know anyone, like even if you're a pro, I mean, are you really gonna like time everything right so that the stuff that's stirring in the underneath is done at the exact same time that your broccoli is steamed right? I mean, it doesn't make so much sense to me.
+
+[8:22] But if you have $700 in your pocket and it's burning a hole in your pocket uh and you don't already own a vita prep or a good blender and you're looking for something, it's pretty interesting that a lot of people in Europe like a lot of Thermomix. It's good, right? I mean, it's okay. No, no, I'm I'm never I'm completely fascinated by them. But again, I would rather s take that 700 bucks and buy two vita preps with it.
+
+[8:44] Um because you can't ever have enough vita preps. Um okay. So uh any uh any any so by the way, for those of you that don't know Brooks, Brooks is uh the well the pastry chef, but is there like a title that goes above pastry chef at Del Posto? Uh no, I'm just uh I mean technically it's executive pastry chef. Executive pastry, that's what I was looking for.
+
+[9:08] I'm not m very much of an executive, so uh pastry chef is fine. Right. Guy that makes desserts. Guy yeah, right. Dessert dude at Del Posto.
+
+[9:16] Del Posto, one of our favorite restaurants uh in Manhattan. It's uh the only um Italian restaurant that has four stars, true? True? Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[9:26] The only Italian restaurant that has uh four stars. Uh our good friend uh Mark Ladner is the is the chef there, and it's uh it's a a great meal. I think one of the interesting things about Brooks's work, I'm gonna put him on the spot because I didn't say I was gonna do this, is that even though um you know a lot of the dishes um have traditional bases to them at Del Posto, even though they're not necessarily a hundred percent traditional, I think that it's some of the like most interesting, freshest desserts out there that Brooks is putting out. I think what do you think, Nastasha? Yeah.
+
+[9:56] Yeah, I mean like not that they're the flavors aren't wacky, it's not about being wacky, but I think just like very literally fresh presentations, uh interesting using uh flavors that aren't necessarily uh crazy, but I think just you know pretty interesting stuff. Uh but for some reason the guys at Del Posto don't like being thought of as as innovative comments. No uh no Wow, yeah. Um, it's just it's it like we're I I don't know. I just I consider myself like like a like a grandma.
+
+[10:28] So like in terms of like the style of the food or the way that I cook it or whatever. Like um and I I definitely think of it as cooking. Like a lot of pastry chefs think of they're like bakers or whatever. Like I'm I'm a cook, so yeah, and I innovative I uh I don't really invent anything, so I don't know. Well, I mean yeah, that I mean I think that but that's the thing.
+
+[10:53] I think um here's the thing. People who get labeled as innovative who right are are pushing certain boundaries of techniques and uh you know ingredients, to me it's enough to be innovative if I haven't tasted something like that before, or it's surprising, um surprising and yet surprising and yet familiar in terms of it's not outside of my uh bounds of comfort, but uh yet I'm still surprised. Like these are the kinds of things that I enjoy tasting um kind of the most. Like in particular, like it's dead simple, but your celery sorbet is a butt kicker. Is it still on the menu?
+
+[11:27] In some form. Yeah, I I I I'm not gonna take it off anytime soon, so it's a delicious product, right? I don't think I've had it. You haven't had it? You haven't had it?
+
+[11:36] Crazy. Uh and uh, you know, the dish you did for the why don't you talk about the dish you did for the uh for the museum uh event, the uh the Hebrew food in Italy. Uh that was the artichoke. Yes. Um well it's funny, like uh I actually uh I had a chef maybe like ten years ago that wanted me to do an artichoke dessert.
+
+[11:58] And I did and it was terrible. So I chose to do it again as like a challenge to myself, like making an artichoke into some sort of sweet thing, you know, so I I mean I think it came out pretty good, so why was the last one terrible? Oh it was I mean I had no idea what I was doing, so I I don't remember what I I think I like like chopped it up and caramelized it and like hammered it and put it on some ice cream. It was it was pretty gross. Really?
+
+[12:25] Yeah. But that was, you know, I've evolved since then. Yeah, a little bit. I hope. I hope.
+
+[12:29] Little bit? So listen, call in your qu what's the what are the uh right there. Okay. 718-497-2128. 718-497-2128.
+
+[12:37] Call in um any questions you have for Brooks or for us. And I can either talk more, we can go to our first break. What do you think? Jack, what do you think? Break or talk?
+
+[12:45] Break or talk, break or talk. Break. Talk. Talk. Alright.
+
+[12:49] So uh Ben, I'm gonna try to pronounce his name. Schwanier. Schwaniere. You like that? Yeah.
+
+[12:55] Schwanier. Ben Chuanier um says, Have I ever tried one of the wonderful uh French fry so cal uh burritos? It's basically like a breakfast burrito with a bunch of French fries jammed into it. Uh I have not. You got one as local Mexican spot.
+
+[13:10] This is you know, continuing our Cinco de Mayo theme. Uh got one as local Mexican spot and it and it took him back. But we are burrito, we like burritos. Uh I do. Nastasha doesn't because she hates anything she had growing up.
+
+[13:20] All right. I swear to God. She doesn't like like limes because they grew in her backyard. She doesn't like uh uh freaking what is it you don't like? Anything that you had as a child.
+
+[13:30] She's like, I ate a peanut when I was a kid, so I don't like them anymore. Right? It's crazy. So she doesn't like burritos because she grew up in LA and she ate them as a child. Most people on earth like stuff that they ate as a child.
+
+[13:42] She's the exact opposite. She's like, my mom's shortbread tasted like hard tech. Not that she's ever had hard tech. Right. I made her hard tack, so she now has a reference to it.
+
+[13:52] But beaten biscuits are basically hard tech. Anyway, um so sorry uh for that little tirade. So uh I have not tried the French fire, butter, that would be delicious, but I am a fan of speaking of frying burritos of the chimichanga. Do you enjoy the chimichanga? Oh, a fried burrito?
+
+[14:08] Amazing. Yeah, right? Amazing. Right? So I don't know if we've ever discussed this on the show, but uh we had uh we did a pilot for uh like what's did we ever talk about this?
+
+[14:14] Yeah, for what's donors, like what stoners would do, and these stoners came in, and it's not actually the first time I've heard this idea, if you can believe that, of for like burrito tape your burrito together, you know, tape it like some sort of tape so your burrito won't come apart. This is a pilot that they never picked up the show. But I think the greatest invention maybe of my whole life was something we did for this. It's called the semi-changa. Have we talked about this on the air before?
+
+[14:37] The semi-changa? Anyway, so that what this okay, why don't you just eat the chimichanga walking around? The answer is because the top, when you eat it will shatter and then the parts will fall all over the place, right? When you eat a burrito, the problem is the burrito like kind of slimes out and then gets crappy all over your hands. The semi-changa, huh, is where you make a burrito and you fry only like the bottom third to half of it to make it crispy like a chimichanga.
+
+[15:01] You wrap that in the paper, and now the top is still soft like a burrito, right? And then you can eat the top like an ice cream cone, because it's a burrito, and then when you get down to the bottom where it's crunchy, it's not so tall, so it's not gonna explode and go flying all over your shirt. The semi-changa, you heard it here first. All right, now we will go to the break. We'll come back with questions for Brooks at 718-497-2128.
+
+[15:22] That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues. This is a public service announcement from Heritage Radio Network. Take a swig of Beer Sessions Radio every Tuesday at 5 p.m. with Jimmy Carboni, the owner of Jimmy's number 43, and Ray Dieter, owner of DBA. Beer loving Rack and Tours offer toasts, share craft beer news, and swap anecdotes about their lives on the front lines of the craft beer movement.
+
+[17:02] Again, Beer Sessions Radio every Tuesday at 5 p.m. on the Heritage Radio Network. Calling your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. But I have a question in from um Oh, I don't have who the question is.
+
+[17:26] Can you can you look it up who it came from? Unfortunately. So uh the question, oh Nick Feela. Uh hi, Dave and Nastasha. I currently go to Schoolcraft College uh culinary school, and they are known here in Michigan for having quite a few master chefs.
+
+[17:40] Uh I'm assuming he's meaning certified master chefs. Does this title really mean much to most chefs or any of the other titles like certified executive chef, etc.? And I would eventually like to work in New York restaurants, but from what I hear it's hard to get in some of the restaurants without contacts. Do you have any tips? Thanks, Nick.
+
+[17:55] Uh well, the school where you are, I believe, has Brian Poulson, who's very well regarded charcuterie uh chef who also I believe happens to be a uh certified master chef. Uh there aren't that many certified master chefs. There's only I think like sixty or seventy certified master chefs, and you have to go through a preposterous battery of tests to do it. And it was famously chronicled in that uh Ruleman book uh Soul of the Chef, right? Wasn't that about certified master chefs?
+
+[18:19] Yeah. Um and I think uh and you know, uh Brooks will come in in any minute here, I think it's an amazing accomplishment to be able to pass all those tests, but I don't think it necessarily I mean d in New York it's more like is your restaurant good? Where have you worked, right? Yeah, yeah, I mean, absolutely. Let's it's all about like was your last dish good.
+
+[18:43] Right, right. I mean, in other words, uh you well, okay, so we'll we have a caller, so we'll discuss this more after after we take the caller. Caller, you're on the air. Hi. Um I was just curious, do you have any tips for like avoiding cracks in cheesecakes?
+
+[18:57] Oh, Brooks. When you bake them. Brooks, do you have any tips for avoiding cracks in cheesecake? Ah, that's a tough one. Um it depends on a lot of things, like like the temperature and obviously the uh whether it's uh whether you're cooking in a water bath or there's so many different like variations the in terms of like the cracks though, um like in like a classic like New York cheesecake or whatever, um it's uh no it's it's it's it's it's really it's really it's really it's a really I I have no Well are the cracks happening because the top like sets and dries out too soon and then splits as it cools or when it's like what is what's causing the cracks.
+
+[19:45] Not a big cheesecake. Do you cook it in a water bath by the way? I have not cooked in a water bath. I when I make my cheesecakes, what always happens is I get a big crack and then I just cover it with cherries or something. Yeah, actually that's what I do too.
+
+[20:00] I think that that makes sense though, that it the heat probably cooks it too fast and it doesn't know what to do, but just split. Or if it dries out a little bit on top from the oven, if it's not there's no moisture in there, I would assume it would get a little bit tougher and then then it might it might uh split instead of giving I'm not sure. Right, like you know, I mean in in like a in a like a st a still oven at home, like you don't have I mean you you have one setting basically on, you know. Like I mean if you have like a like obviously we have super fancy like comvy ovens and stuff where you can adjust everything, you know. So like technically I could probably get a cheesecake that doesn't crack, but oh you mean like a convection oven?
+
+[20:37] Uh yeah, I mean like at the restaurant we have like super fancy ovens that do all sorts of things, but the funny thing is is like if I was gonna bake a cheesecake, I would just bake it in a still oven the same way that you would bake it at home. So do it the four-star way and just put some cherries on top. Yeah, okay. But if I if if I think of anything, I'm I might see uh McGee uh later this week and he thinks about those kinds of things a lot. So if I if I come up with anything, then I'll uh I'll I'll mention it next week.
+
+[21:06] Yeah, if anybody should know it'll be him. Oh yeah. Yeah. Well anyway, thanks. Thanks for the call.
+
+[21:10] We'll we'll try and figure out some more stuff for you. Thank you. Bye-bye. Bye. So back to the certified master chef thing, right?
+
+[21:16] I mean, I I definitely have respect that someone can accomplish it, but it's not necessarily gonna get them I mean a certified master chef is not like looking for a line job right on at a restaurant. Uh yeah. That they're probably mainly working for larger institutions or teaching or I think mostly like when I hear about people with that a title like that, they're either like yeah, they're working for a school or they're or they're like the corporate chef for like a big company or something, you know. So right. But it i it it is a great achievement.
+
+[21:48] So I'm not uh No, no, of course, like and as to I would eventually like to work in New York restaurants, but from what I hear it's hard to get into some of the restaurants without contacts. Do you have any tip? It definitely helps to have in the high end restaurants, it definitely helps to have some human being that will vouch for you and say that you're a good worker. And I'm gonna say something, and then Brooks will s tell me whether I'm right or wrong. Uh but uh it's very compelling argument to uh write a bunch of times saying I'm willing to come work for free to do whatever to be in your kitchen, and then and I will work like a dog and expect nothing and I will do it for free is fairly compelling argument.
+
+[22:23] No, no, it's totally totally works. Especially like if you're relentless, like like one letter like that, maybe you look at it like eh, whatever. But if you get like ten letters from the same person, like eventually they stop being a crazy person. I mean, maybe up up until a certain point they're a crazy person, but then you're like, Well, maybe they're just really into it. And like definitely if you're relentless with it, and that it can definitely like get your foot in the door.
+
+[22:48] So you have to be willing to do whatever, work like a dog, right? And just or just basically show up and expect anything, you know. Like I mean, like when we have trails or stodges come in, like sometimes the the nature of the the day or whatever, they're just rolling chocolate truffles for like four hours, you know. So and that's usually like a good gold standard or a litmus test, whatever, for like if if someone comes in and just and like rolls truffles really fast, and it's like, all right, what can I do next? Then you're like, ah, okay.
+
+[23:24] Maybe this maybe this is a a good person or whatever. And then sometimes people will just roll the truffles really slow, and I'll be like, Oh, is that your f is that your third tray? Like, no, it's my first trade. And they're like, really, like then you know, like, well, what's going on here. So yeah.
+
+[23:38] But uh so what if they're one of those unfortunate people like me with hot hands and they're smearing all the truffles. Um well we we then we will move you into the walk-in freezer. It's a known thing for pastry people, hot hands, my Yeah, I know hot hands is it's a it's it's a rough one. Yeah. Yeah, yeah, hot hands.
+
+[23:55] Not much of a chocolate guy, never have been. Hot hands. I'm not making this stuff up, Nastasha. So anyway, uh Nick, I I hope that that uh helps you out and uh start making the list of places you want to work at and then just start piling emails on. But if you go to a culinary school, one of the main things of a culinary school is that there are people there who know chefs, and I guarantee you there's someone there who knows someone who can get you vouched into a place, so you might not have to write a thousand letters, but I would be prepared to do it if you have a particular place that you want to work.
+
+[24:28] There are some places because their kitchens aren't very big where they actually it can be hard to get a stodge even working for free, but usually if you pester them long enough, like Brooks says, you you can make it in because event you know, they uh kitchen people seem to enjoy persistence. Yeah, no, of course. Like it it it shows that you're like committed to the cause, which is exactly the kind of person that you want working for you in a kitchen is someone completely entirely committed, like like a soldier without any question, you know. So what percentage of the people who come in as a stash you think burn out? Um I mean like people that start as a stash?
+
+[25:10] Or in other words, like yeah, people that really want to, you know, go the you know, high-end perfectionist fine dining restaurant route, come in, do a stash, and then they're like, wow, this really wasn't what I thought I I wanted it. It wasn't what I thought. Oh, you mean like right off the bat? Um a lot. Yeah.
+
+[25:27] A lot of people, yeah. Like a lot of people will be like, I had no idea this is what it's gonna be like, or or I mean it usually like I find for like for for a lot of my staff it it comes at the end of the night, where you know they think of like working in like a a fancy fine dining restaurant as like this very glamorous thing, but at the end of the night, like, you know, you're on your hands and knees like scrubbing out the low boy, like and and every s and especially for dessert people, like every single other person in the entire restaurant is gone. So you're there basically by yourself scrubbing out the low boy, and it's it might be like two in the morning, and that's that I find that that's like a crack like a cracking point for people, like 'cause I like looking around and like they're just like, what is going on? They're like, this is bull crap. This is bull crap.
+
+[26:13] I didn't yeah, I I I thought I'd be making like beautiful cakes. Yeah. I went to college. What? Like that you get that a lot too, right?
+
+[26:19] Someone who's like like I worked like especially people who've career changers, right? They're like, they don't feel like do you ever have that happen? You have someone who's a career changer, comes in, doesn't feel like they should have to do all that? Um yeah, every once in a while. I mean m I would say more in the past.
+
+[26:33] Like in recent times, like I think people seem to like kinda get like working in a fine dining restaurant is going to be pretty tough. So I mean but the idea is though is that I mean everything you do down to cleaning the the the low boy out is actually uh a a quality thing in the end, right? It's like keeping the the quality high like there's no No no absolutely yeah. I mean so it's it's important. That's why like Yeah it's like cleaning out the low boy at the end of the night is is probably more important than being able to like roll fondant to a certain thickness to make a wedding cake, you know so someone who's gonna make it understands that there basically is nothing that's beneath them, right?
+
+[27:11] I mean there's not no nothing, nothing nothing at all. Like um yeah. So if if there's if if something's on the floor, grab a mop and clean it up, you know. So uh you know I know Dave Chang is com complains a lot about um the people coming out of cooking school nowadays saying that they're not willing to do all that stuff anymore. But you think that that's that's passing?
+
+[27:30] Uh I mean it really d it depends. I mean it depends on the person. Um it's uh it's almost like a case by case thing. Like sometimes sometimes you you you you get people that are like just complete all stars and like you're like wow where'd you come from? You came from space or something.
+
+[27:49] And then every once in a while you get someone who's like really doesn't get it at all. But I would say for the most part it's kind of like in the middle there. So and uh another thing that people don't think about is you know you you're going to a place, you're working for free, right? Which is it's kind of crazy. Not that many, you know, uh what would industries work that way.
+
+[28:07] Right. Where you're working like like a dog, getting yelled at uh and doing it for free, and long hours and many days a week, right? So okay. Um but on the other hand, the flip side is that um the restaurants also putting an investment in you as well because you might mess up product, you take time away from the cooks who have to explain things. Is there do you see that side of it too?
+
+[28:29] Like, do you feel that you're actually giving them something? Yeah, I mean, like when like in the past, like I I I mean, before I say before I worked at Del Posto, I did that all the time. Like I would I would work for weeks for free places, or if I found a place that I that I really wanted to be, I would do whatever I could to like just hang out there for work. I mean, yeah, I mean if if I could like log all the uh like free hours that I've worked in like the past 13 years or whatever, like I'd I could probably buy a house or something. In New York.
+
+[29:05] Wow, that's rough. Any uh any tips on uh how to get the most out of a stage? Um honestly it's just uh like you can totally tell after about an hour if someone's like gonna be an all-star and like they can you just know, like just the way I I usually just watch their hands. I think it's like a I think I heard um like Payard say that one time, like like just watch people's hands, like if they if they're constantly moving and constantly working, like um you know that they're gonna be like a good a good person to have on the team. So nice.
+
+[29:44] All right. So should we take another uh commercial break or push this? Take a commercial break. Alright, call in your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues.
+
+[30:10] This ample. Oh no. You make a choice. Now it's up to me. Whenever you call me, I'll be there.
+
+[30:48] Whenever you want me, I'll be there. Whenever you need me, I'll be there. I'll be around. That's a new one, huh? I like that, Jack.
+
+[31:10] Nice, Jack. Thanks. Welcome back to Cooking Issues. You have uh another couple of minutes to call your questions in for us or for Brooks at 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128.
+
+[31:22] Not for me. You can ask. I just take care of issues. Well, uh, what is it when? I don't know.
+
+[31:29] We tried, but she sits there texting too much, so it's not. Wow. See, that's the thing. Like, here's the problem. Like, I'm like, I'm all nice, sweet, sugar, and candy.
+
+[31:39] That's that to me. No, well, that's also true. But until someone tries to call me out, like in a public situation, and then I'm just like, oh, really? The gloves are off. I hadn't realized that.
+
+[31:44] All right. That's kind of where I'm at with nostalgia, too. Wow. Boom! Anyway, uh well, we would love a we've had like we've had a couple of nostalgia questions, right?
+
+[32:00] So calling like, are you single? What's your sign? Yeah, I think. Your sign has changed, right? Aren't you on the didn't we talk about this?
+
+[32:08] Oh, geez. Let's not go by that. Oh my god. All right. Uh so if you have a legitimate question that's not asking Nastasha for a date, or about I mean, you can ask her why she hates everything that she ate growing up, or why she has such a conflicted relationship with uh, you know, the foods of Los Angeles.
+
+[32:27] You said that. Not me. Not me. Anyway, uh uh but you're welcome to call in for a question for her. Um so Naveen Sinha uh wrote in and he's uh one of the TAs, he might be the lead TA, is he?
+
+[32:39] I don't know. I think he's the lead. Uh of the uh Harvard class that uh Faron did last year, Faron Adria. And uh I'm going um to assist McGee actually on the first lecture of the new year coming up in September, which should be fun. Uh I don't know what I'm gonna do there, but something maybe you know, blow blow blow everyone up.
+
+[32:56] Everyone thinks I'm gonna go to places and blow everyone up, but I've never blown up another person. You know what I mean? I've never blown up someone other than myself. Um anyway. So Naveen writes in and says, Hi Dave, I'm fascinated by chocolate, especially the transformation from the bitter seeds, the cacao tree, uh, to a tasty chocolate bar.
+
+[33:14] That is a an a a very interesting transformation. Are there any other foods that undergo a similar set of steps? Fermentation, roasting, grinding. Also, do you know of any other tropical fruit seeds that could become delicious through such a process? Thanks, Naveen.
+
+[33:26] That's an interesting question. I mean, obviously, coffee, right? Coffee goes through uh, you know, a similar uh similar set of procedures, uh quite literally, uh, fermentation, drying, roasting, grinding, uh, brewing. Um vanilla goes through picking uh fermentation, right? It's dipped in usually in boiling water, uh, and then wilted and then fermented, so it's similar, and then I guess it can be ground to form a paste.
+
+[33:55] But vanilla doesn't taste like vanilla until it goes through its its uh its paces um to be fermented. And in fact, the vanilla that's uncured is called red vanilla. You can get it. Uh it's interesting, but it's not it doesn't taste like uh vanilla. Uh I don't know offhand, although I'm gonna do some research because we're gonna do a tropical fruit tasting in July, so uh we we could do some do some tests, but I don't know of any other tropical fruit seeds other than those that go through these kinds of processes.
+
+[34:22] Any have you ever heard of anything that goes what else goes through that kind of no, I mean like uh that tea, tea leaves, right? Tea leaves go through a fermentation process like that. I mean, there's olives, but that's not fully like the same kind of process, but still have to be like processed to make them edible. So right. I mean, yeah, I mean, is that the thing is is is it just uh yeah, is it things that need to be processed to make edible?
+
+[34:47] There are a lot of things like that, right? But I'd have to think more about it. It's an interesting question. I like the whole like I'm fascinated by uh how we figured out that, for instance, ackey fruit will kill you if you eat it unless the pods open up all the way and the fruit's ripe. Some dude must Akifruit is you know the like kind of the national fruit of Jamaica.
+
+[35:06] Aki, how would you say it? Is that the A Q C A? A C A-C-K-E-E. Akian saltfish is like the classic. But you can only buy canned ackee here in New York, as far as I know, I've never seen fresh acke.
+
+[35:20] And um, but if you eat it uh and it hasn't opened up, it's poisonous. But if you and you shouldn't eat it at all, apparently if you're pregnant. Uh but uh Akeen saltfish is one of the Jamaican national dishes. So some dude ate a like probably a whole tree's worth of ripe acke, right? And was like, this dove is good.
+
+[35:38] You know what I mean? And then like his buddy picked it too early and died. And it was like, oh, yeah, you know, don't do that. Um so anyway, I'm fascinated by this kind of stuff, Naveen. So we will look uh more uh into different things like this, and people call and write in with your with your various various you know, fermentation and deadly poison things.
+
+[35:58] Alright. So uh I think being posted this week on Eater is gonna be our our burger extravaganza. Is that true, Nastasha? Mm-hmm. Yeah.
+
+[36:07] Today. So um so basically, eaters doing like a whole, they have some sort of like burger festival week, some crap. I don't know. What not cra it's not crap, you know what I mean? Some burger festival.
+
+[36:18] Everything's crap. I say crap a lot. Anyway. Uh, and so they wanted some sort of fantabulous fancy burger, but it turns out that the burgers that I typically like to make aren't that fancy. My favorite, one of my favorite burgers is patty melt.
+
+[36:29] I think patty melt is delicious burger. Patty melt, for those of you not hip to patty melts, patty melt is rye bread. Uh it's gotta be a rye bread, right? Yeah, rye bread. If it's not rye bread, it's like a something else melt, right?
+
+[36:40] Right. It's like it's like a grilled cheese with a burger slid inside. Right. I mean, it might be delicious, but it's not a patty melt, right? Right?
+
+[36:46] Anyway. Uh caramelized onions, Swiss cheese, and the whole thing, you cook the burger, and then you put it in and you cook it like a grilled cheese sandwich with the onions, so the bread gets toasted with you know, mashed with butter. Fantastic. I like mine with ketchup, delicious. So I did a slightly high-tech version of a patty melt where it was all pretty much traditional, except I cooked the burger low temperature in a Ziploc bag in butter and made the burger thicker than it normally was.
+
+[37:13] And I I grilled it like a grilled cheese sandwich with the onions and then separated it and put the burger in between so the burger didn't actually get smashed, but the bread did. I thought it was good. I thought it was delicious. But eater came back and they're like, listen, we wanted something wacky. We went to you not for something that just to taste good.
+
+[37:30] We want something that's wacky, so then they had to go reshoot something that was wackier. Is this true or false? Yeah. True. Yeah.
+
+[37:36] So I was like, all right, well, I wanted to keep some of the patty melt uh stuff, so uh I was like, okay, we're still gonna use the rye bread, we're still gonna do grilled cheese. But uh I'm gonna add uh meat glued bacon sheets, right? So we you know we mean we made the sheets uh out of bacon laminate with meat glue, vacuum it down, uh, and then we cut everything into rings so that it all looked perfect because we figured that was fancier and wackier. So the the rye bread was cut into a ring. We then took conte, which is like gruyere, and uh cut it into a ring, and then the bacon sheets cut into a ring, and then so that was the basis of the grilled cheese sandwich.
+
+[38:09] We didn't put the caramelized onions on it this time, so it was bacon, grill, all made like a grilled cheese sandwich. The burger, we also took pickle sheets and turned them like you would Japanese style with like an usuba, Grace did, or intern Grace did that, and they cut that into a ring so that you had a ring-shaped pickle that was the size of the burger, which was nice. And then for the burger to make it all fantabulously fancy dancy, we reduced veal stock down until it was really thick and beefy, and the gelatin was really, you know, very strong. Added ketchup to it, added calcium lactate gluconate, right? Set it into a sheet, uh, cut the sheets into uh rings, and then threw those into alginate.
+
+[38:46] So that formed a layer around the gelatin. So now we have like a little hockey puck of uh of uh beef ketchup gelatin with a layer of alginate around. We chose alginate because it's a little bit tough. It's gonna needs to withstand this kind of rough handling, and it's also uh heat proof. So then we built a burger around that uh around that sheet of uh of uh that like gilet, and then low temp fried it to set it, low temp cooked that in butter and then roasted it over charcoal to get a nice charcoal outside, put that in between.
+
+[39:16] And when you cut the burger, it's like a soup dumpling, it explodes ketchup and and veal stock all over the plate. And uh the we did one without when you do it with a bun, it like sprays out a little bit, kinda like when you take a cherry tomato and you bite it, and like if you don't close your mouth when you do it, you spray your buddy. You know what I'm talking about? Anyway, uh kind of like that. But when we did it by itself, it was kind of like almost obscene.
+
+[39:37] We we just cut a burger and it was like it like shot up like a fountain, like the like the like the burger couldn't hold it in, I'll put it that way. Okay. So uh so that's the I don't know what they're gonna use from that. I don't know what they're gonna use from that. Um it's actually gonna be online today.
+
+[39:55] I f well supposedly like a photo is there a photo of it of it of it exploding? Uh there's a video, so there might be I mean I would actually prefer like I I'm a firm believer, and by the way, uh it's it goes back to when I was doing art for uh you know, trying to do art for a living, and uh we're in a uh cooking issues in an art show now. I'm in an art show at Columbia. I just put a post up today on the blog. So you can go look at the post on the blog and see what we put into the art show, including something about our uh our uh you know, someone we met in California, Roy Fong, who owns the uh Imperial Tea Court and does a lot of really interesting stuff with tea, including he's gonna he's growing his own tea on a tea farm in California, which I think is really cool and uh unprecedented.
+
+[40:29] Anyway, so uh uh where this goes yeah supposedly there's gonna be a video but when I was doing art sometimes a good still photo is better than a video like if you just had like a sick still photo of the burger with the sh stuff shooting out of the top of it and you caught it like just as it was like in midair like somehow that's more badass than the video of it happening. Because it's very hard I mean these guys are good so I'm sure it's good but like if for me it was very hard to get videos that were as compelling as a good still shot. Like I always preferred the one good still shot like take the video and then choose the one awesome still from it and put that up I don't know. It's like it seems to me because then your mind fills in the rest of everything. You don't need you don't need the actual whole whole video a lot of the times.
+
+[41:11] But this this is my theory as it when I was doing uh performance art anyway. So what else we do last week, Nastash did we go to Martha last week? Yeah why don't you talk about that why don't you talk about it because apparently you don't you know you can't you can't be bothered not to lean back in your chair with the gangster league the stash has got a serious gangster lien going on in the in the studio. Talk about it too. Alright so uh Martha Stewart wanted a centrifuge we bought her the damn centrifuge and I fixed it and then uh it was a nice one I paid I think like I don't know 300 bucks or something like that which was her limit uh on eBay.
+
+[41:44] Yes yes she only wanted to pay $300 for the centrifuge which is like you know I've paid more for dinner and she that's what she wanted anyway whatever. So we bring it to her uh studio and she wants to learn about it and the one we bring when we show up sucker literally breaks. And I was like, you know, this happens with stuff that you get off of eBay. Like, even though I fixed one problem, there was another problem in the machine, and it turned out that it's an it's a nine hundred dollar, it's a nine hundred dollar problem to fix. So I was like, oh man, crap.
+
+[42:14] So we ended up taking well what does Nastasha describe the situation. We were both pleased. Wow, that's that's all you're gonna that's it. That's all Nastasha's gonna say. She was not pleased.
+
+[42:28] Wow. Alright. Yeah. And so basically I gave her the hardest part is that you're like singing and laughing to yourself and talking to yourself. What am I supposed to do?
+
+[42:39] Sit there and look depressed because the machine is broken? Brooks. But I'm am I supposed to look depressed? Tell me that. What am I supposed to do?
+
+[42:47] Am I supposed to I don't have a hair shirt with me that I can put on. What's a hair shirt? Yeah. What's a hair shirt? She's this woman who's not used to punishing herself.
+
+[42:55] That's why she hasn't, you know. That's why she hasn't, you know. She's you know, Catholic too, doesn't know what hair crazy. Anyway. So uh yeah, you know, uh I didn't have something to beat myself with.
+
+[43:06] I didn't bring, like, you know, the the the you know, the little small whip to like whip my back and apologize that the $300 centrifuge that we had spent hours fixing broke again. She did not throw it. She did. She did not. She said, I'm gonna need to get my money back, Dave.
+
+[43:23] Do you remember that? No, you made that up. I swear on a few. I did not hear that. Well, thank God.
+
+[43:30] Anyway, so uh I gave her a different centrifuge, and so hopefully she's happy with it because she has it now, right? Mm-hmm. Yeah, we haven't heard anything. I haven't heard of it. So hop hopefully she's happy with it, but now I'm stuck.
+
+[43:40] We have what's uh what what was she gonna do with it? What's what's her plans for it? I don't know. They thought she was gonna make baby food. Because she just had a baby.
+
+[43:48] But she did not have a baby. First of all, like I don't know how much it is his privilege, and we're too here talking about like Martha listens. Martha, if you're listening, I'm sorry. This has been Cooking Issues Vicious Visions. Oh, you didn't.
+
+[44:17] Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] The following is a message from Heritage Foods USA. In the next few weeks, Heritage Foods USA will be offering an interesting variety of amazing products, ranging from top quality seafood to their famous pork cuts. At the end of May, the Heritage team will go up to Maine to harvest fresh lobster with sustainable lobster meat. These delicious lobster are a perfect way to kick off the summer season. In the pork department, Heritage Foods USA will offer the maple cured smoked boneless heritage ham at an unbeatable price.com or call 718-389-0985.
+
+[0:37] That's 718-389-0985 to place your order with Andrea or Ashley. Don't forget to sign up for the email list and to check them on Facebook and Twitter to get in on their new products, deals, and offers from Heritage Foods USA. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues coming to you live every Tuesday on the Heritage Radio Network. I am Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues. Nastasha the Hammer Lopez is not here today because she is in Brimfield shopping for antiques.
+
+[1:16] Nastasha, word to the wise, Brimfield was cool before eBay. No insult to the Brimfield folks, right? No insult. We're also here in the studio with Chad Solomon and Christy Pope from the I guess newly renamed Cuffs and Buttons. It used to be singular and now it's plural or it was always plural and I've just always said it wrong.
+
+[1:31] No, it's it used to be singular. Now it's plural because we're plural people. Alright, cool. So uh call in all of your questions, cooking, and uh hopefully today uh a lot of drink related questions too. 718 497 2128.
+
+[1:43] That's 718 497 2128. We'll be here for about the next 45 minutes. So uh uh uh Chad and Christy are an interesting uh group because they are one of the only like hardcore, like world-class like bartender couples that I know. Is that true? Do you know any others?
+
+[1:59] I would say the only other two are would be uh Anastasia Miller and Jared Brown. Oh yes, yes. All right. They live somewhere else. Yeah, they they jumped in.
+
+[2:08] Yeah, yeah, that doesn't count. They don't count. And uh and also they're like are they actually were they like like working bartender types, or are they are they just like like intelligentsia of drinking? I think intelligentsia, right? At one time um before we knew them, both of them had bartended.
+
+[2:23] Yeah. In fact, Jared worked with Dale, our worked as a waiter at the Rainbow Room uh during lunch service while Dale was there, but bartended at an at another establishment at that time. And by the way, for those of you not hip to like the recent history of uh cocktails, we're talking about uh Dale de Groff, who um kind of uh was fair to say started bringing back uh good cocktails in the rainbow room in the when was it the 860s? Yeah, late 80s. So uh like the entire country and probably the world, a a cultural wasteland of crappy cocktails.
+
+[2:57] Uh Dale uh um teams up with uh why is his name? My name's popping out of my head. The guy who owned the rainbow room started at the end of the room. Joe Bowen. Yeah, there you go.
+
+[3:04] Like that, boom, they're right there with it. Uh basically says, uh, you know, along with Dale, hey, why don't we have real drinks here? And then uh and that's the start, and and everything has kind of stemmed from that. I mean that it's hard to find an like a real bartender here or abroad, really, that doesn't trace some sort of route back to that moment where uh Dale was like, let's make some good drinks again. I would say that Dale's important to us as well, simply because uh he's Chad, I'll let you tell the story, but that's how we got our name.
+
+[3:33] Um was through a story that Dale had told us what on one of the original meetings that we had with him. He he he re uh recounted the story, uh the etymology of the name Cuffs and Buttons and how it uh was an old uh New Orleans cocktail created in 1873. Um and that bartender over time well he'd he named the drink cuffs and buttons at the time because of a competing drink called White Ties and Tails. And um in the by the eighteen eighties, there was the international cotton exposition held in New Orleans, and with all the international visitors coming into town, he's like, nobody's gonna understand this white ties and tails, cuffs and buttons thing. So they changed the name of Southern Comfort.
+
+[4:10] Southern Comfort then went on to become a much bigger brand in the 20th century. Braun Foreman bought it and they really dropped, you know, the cuffs and buttons, and it was just kind of a historical footnote. We loved the name because of the kind of formality and the it's a very uh kind of uh visual connotation that comes, you know, cuffs and buttons, and it worked really well when we were looking to, you know, name a cocktail catering company as we started out. Right. What is now sold as Southern Comfort was one of the first things I ever got sick on.
+
+[4:38] Oh yeah. Not surprising. Yeah. Uh oh, actually, uh this might be interesting before we get into some hardcore questioning and tasting actually, is uh did you guys meet like after you were bartending? These guys have worked at like all the like a lot of the great bars here in in New York and all over the country.
+
+[4:55] So you you have milk and honey, you uh Pegu, right? Where where else? Uh like everywhere. It's like you can't even flat Iron Lounge. Yeah.
+
+[5:03] Flat Iron Lounge and Little Branch, yeah. Yeah, but it's not oh yeah, it's not like oh they they worked there for like a day and a half, like everywhere, like these are like they started these, they they were like on the opening teams on these places. So this is like not a this is a no joke, like this is a real deal homie uh situation. And did you guys meet while you were doing that or beforehand? Uh it was actually kind of a fortuitous uh circumstances, but um I was working at Milk and Honey.
+
+[5:24] I started there uh in its second year, um, which was in two thousand one, and it was I got hired the Thursday before 911. Ooh. So uh yeah nine eleven happened and obviously everything below 14th Street was just a stalemate for a period of time. You couldn't even get down there. Yeah exactly I lived in Chinatown so it's like I used to have to carry my electric bill with me to to get into my house because there was always armed guards and but um so I was working down there uh 9 11 happened business was slow I needed a supplementary job so I had a friend who knew the manager at a place called the cellar bar which is in the Bryant Park hotel.
+
+[6:01] So um I went to interview there and uh that's how I met Chad. He was interviewing on the same day that I was yeah so I walked in I I had previously had not bartended ever um and had been working in film and um when the obviously when 911 happened it kind of they shut down all filming indefinitely because you know the resources need to be diverted due to the the the incident. So I jumped behind a bar, met Christy there and ironically the person who got me the job at the cellar bar was uh he said oh there's this bar in the lower east side called Milk and Honey and he said something you'd really respond to and he kind of described it to me and I'd heard of it but really didn't necessarily understand what it was. But he's like you learn how to make really amazing drinks and it's got rules and you know you have to have a reservation to get in there. And it didn't really until you went in there and and saw it and did it at the time it didn't make sense entirely.
+
+[6:54] So the Sasha didn't need anybody at that time. So I went to the Bryant Park hotel made it a little bit Sasha being the person who started building. Yeah, Sasha Sasha Petrosky. And uh it worked out because Christy and I got hired the same day. We didn't actually know that, but we worked together, I think, for the first time a couple of weeks later, and uh she's like, you know, we're like, what else do you do?
+
+[7:12] She's like, Oh, I also work at the spar at this bar milk and Honey, yada yada. And was shortly after that I she took me in there for the first time, and you know, it was just kind of a Eureka moment. Oh, there's something going on here. These drinks are completely different than anything you I've tried. These bartenders are working in a way that I've never seen.
+
+[7:29] Why are they doing this? And it just the questions just such a juxtaposition having both experiences working at milk and honey and a place like Cellar Bar at the same time. Not that Cellar Bar was a bad bar, it was just a totally different style of bar experience, you know, much more common to what people think of, you know, completely not uh craft cocktail bar in the sense that milk and honey. Yeah, volume oriented, yeah, high fashion, very flashy crowd, you know. Yeah.
+
+[7:55] And there begins the journey. I think we actually have a caller. I wonder whether hopefully it's a drink question. Well, whatever the question is, we'll take it, right? Caller, you were on the air.
+
+[8:03] Hey Dave, it's not a drink question. I have a question about cellulose. Okay. I uh saw that there was a uh Washington or the Wall Street Journal about uh how they're adding cellulose could bulk up food and make it creamier. I was wondering what extent can we make food completely from cellulose?
+
+[8:18] Like, can we have cellulose pasta and cellulose bread? I mean, just something that basically gives us all that fiber but doesn't make us fat. They used to do that all the time, and I remember when I was a kid looking at the kind of low calorie bread, I always had a kind of a chub issue growing up. Yeah, my whole family, like we we YOY weight, that's how we work, the Arnolds. And um, I remember looking at the thing, and uh my dad was like, they grind up trees and put them into the bread.
+
+[8:42] Because the cellulose is not actually the case. They usually probably make it out of cotton, like waste cotton, really, you know, whatever, if they put it in. But you could basically bulk it up up to the point where uh where she don't taste good anymore. You know, I mean? Because you d you can't digest it 'cause you you know, if you were a cow and you had a whole bunch of stomachs with a bunch of bacteria in it, then you could digest it, right?
+
+[9:00] But you can't. So the limit is just a limit at which it no longer tastes good. They they chop up the cellulose very finely, like microcrystalline cellulose, so it can hold water pretty well, but it doesn't provide structure the same way that flour or or or protein uh you know uh protein and flour can or even the starch when they're linking together. So um the the limit is strictly one of like, you know, however much it's basically just a filler that they're adding. Does that make sense?
+
+[9:26] Yeah I I understand I'm just wondering how what's the max you could put in there before it won't hold together. You know the gluten wouldn't completely I've never tried it but I'm sure what they if I was gonna try to make uh like a a cellulose bread what I would do is I would I would dope it with a bunch of cellulose and then dope it with vital wheat gluten and then but I mean it would be some I don't think it would taste good now mind you. I think it would taste bad. But I don't know what the up limit is. I mean it's um because the cellulose I don't know probably doesn't have much taste.
+
+[9:56] I don't know what it's gonna do on a t I'm not saying it's gonna taste bad. My recollection because I did buy that bread was that it wasn't as good as the normal bread I was buying. But this is just a recollection now. Just a recollection. You know what I'm saying?
+
+[10:08] And I had a question uh I just saw that there was a book that came out called uh why we're fat, I believe and uh basically said that uh carbs regulate insulin and therefore regulate the uptake of fat. So I was wondering if uh you were to go on a low carb diet, what would you uh supplant most of your your diet with? Like what kind of meals, what kind of like you know ethnic dishes that are low carb and you know you could eat every day. Oh jeeze. Yeah.
+
+[10:36] Uh I mean I I tend uh I tend not to believe any sort of kind of uh um diet, um any sort of d diet thing, especially one that is like uh that gives up one nutrient for another because I think that you you're gonna a lot of times you're gonna end up not being satisfied. A lot of these diets do work in the short term. Uh, but I think um and and of course there are people who are huge advocates of low carbs, there's people who are advocates of low, low fat. Um I w I wouldn't recommend it. I would recommend a uh like a uh like a moderate uh consumption of a moderate amount of of widely varied diet.
+
+[11:12] Now that said, I have in the past I I used to do a diet, really unhealthy diet. Don't everyone out don't think worse of me here. I went on a diet called blunch. I this is my own diet, blunch. 'Cause because when you when you're when you combine breakfast and lunch and you mean to do it, that's brunch, right?
+
+[11:27] That's a good thing. Brunch is a good thing. You know, we have mimosas or whatever. You guys probably hate mimosas. I like them at brunch.
+
+[11:32] Brunch is brunch. Anyway, maybe bloody mary, whatever, brunch. Blunch, right, is when you don't do it because it's fun. You do it because you're just grinding through it. So what I would do is I would have one meal uh a day before dinner, and the first time I blunched, it was a bagel with nothing on it, and then I would eat nothing until dinner, and then I would eat a normal dinner with my family because that makes me a social human being.
+
+[11:56] So to me being social is the most important thing. So I would eat a normal dinner and eat one thing during the day. I lost a lot of muscle mass on on the on that, and it was really kind of bad, bad news for me, and I ended up actually having to go to the doctor and like have a bunch of awful procedures done to check to make sure that I didn't have cancer because I was bleeding from uh unspeakable places. But uh it did work. The the second time that I did bl and also you're a raging jerk when the dinner time comes around because you're and and you smell like like crap because you're you're s totally ketotic and you're you're breathing out like what smells like s like like fumes of death out of your mouth at the end of the day.
+
+[12:32] Uh the second time I did it, because it it it is effective, it's all about being regimented. I I ate only two eggs. Two hard boiled eggs. I was like, okay, two hard boiled eggs. I lost less muscle mass on that one, but I still was a huge jerk.
+
+[12:45] So I would recommend to be social if you if you know if so being social is important to you, which it is to me. Like I I'm not recommending going on the blunch diet, but I'm saying be very, very, very regimented. If you want to cut down your carbs, be extremely regimented during the day. It's very easy to plan out your weekly meals, especially your lunch and your breakfast. Be extremely regimented.
+
+[13:03] Give yourself no choices. If there's no choices, you won't stray. Then if you stray a little bit at dinner, at least you look like a human being with your family. Do you know what I mean? Yeah, I was thinking about getting into I I think it's uh Middle Eastern breakfast they call it full.
+
+[13:16] Yeah, full, like full like uh be like uh beans, like uh like uh fava beans, full Medimas. Yeah. Right, right. That stuff is delicious. That'd be something good to supplant the whole day.
+
+[13:29] And even my kids used to eat the heck out of that stuff. Full Well, you know, beans in a can. Beans in a can are one of the few things in a can that are good. You know what I mean? Uh you supplement it with your own stuff that you know that you add it, but like, you know, I'm no I'm no uh I'm no hater on on canned beans.
+
+[13:44] I mean I know how to make my own beans. Are you guys haters on canned beans? We we eat 'em all the time. I'm no hater. No hater.
+
+[13:50] But yes, I mean I'm sure it's gonna be better if you make it from scratch. But if you make a batch at the beginning of the week, let's say, then you can have it. I mean it's it's it for me it wouldn't be reasonable to make myself uh uh a real breakfast every day. I can't. I can't.
+
+[14:03] You know what I mean? Does this make sense? Is this helpful at all? Alright, cool. Uh one last thing.
+
+[14:09] Where's the uh like a good online site to get uh used uh restaurant equipment? I'm not talking about like uh stoves and things like that, but I mean like hotel pans and used and stuff like that. Online it's tough for small items like that. I mean, eBay obviously is good, um, and I use it all the time for certain things. The best thing to do if you're in a major city, unfortunately, restaurants and bars go out of business all the time.
+
+[14:32] When they go out of business, they auction off. What happens is usually everyone at the end of the of the business is so pissed off and everyone owes everyone else money. So basically you steal whatever you want and then you walk out. And so what happens is is uh someone goes in, whoever has the lease, whoever's owed the most money, goes in, hires an auctioneer, and you go in there and you can buy everything at like pennies, pennies on a dollar. And so you'll you you can buy pans like hotel pants.
+
+[15:01] You have to buy like 20. You know what I mean? Because it's like, okay, we got a lot of 20 hotel pants, and you're like 50 cents. He's like 50 cents, you crazy 50 cents a dollar. You're like, okay, a dollar, and then you have to buy all 20 for 20 bucks.
+
+[15:13] That's how it works. Uh but those are usually in the back of the paper. They used to be in the back of the Health Wanted's in the New York Times on every Sunday, but I don't know where they are now because my wife has forbidden me from going to the street. There's a couple websites that announce those as well. Oh really?
+
+[15:23] Yeah, they're probably all based on the web now. They used to be in the newspaper back when people read newspapers. But do you guys buy it auction? I I used to all the time, but you know what? Uh my mom just started a business doing that.
+
+[15:33] So I've just recently started doing it. It's it's a lot of fun. No, yeah, it's cra it's crazy. It's really weird. It's it's like re fun because you're getting cheap stuff, but at the same time, it's depressing.
+
+[15:42] Usually like someone from the restaurant is there with their face in their hands, and like, you know, you know, someone like me is like, you know, I'll buy all the liquor from the bar, and they're like, Do you have your liquor license with you? And you're like, uh Yeah, it can be depressing. Like buying used bar stools can be a depressing thing. But oh man, but I've been there many times. Uh anyway, thank you so much for the call.
+
+[16:07] I think we're actually gonna go to our first break and we're gonna come back and taste some stuff that you guys brought, right? Yep. Cooking issues about the star, yeah. That may not be fun, yeah. What's the single master clear?
+
+[16:55] In the sky so very strong, yeah. Welcome back to Cooking Issues. Calling all your questions to 718 497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 coming to you today with Chad Solomon and Christy Poe from Cuffs and Buttons here tasting some of their fantabulous stuff. Tell me what we're tasting.
+
+[18:36] By the way, you guys feel like chumpsuckers for not being able to taste it with us, am I right? Yeah, totally. First up here is a mint chocolate lactart soda, which is a mouthful, I know. Uh it's a drink that we created for an event that we did a couple of weeks ago uh for Magnum bars uh from Europe, European chocolate ice cream bars. And uh they commissioned us to create three drinks for the event uh that ha you know happened uh coincided with the Tribeca Film Festival.
+
+[19:01] Carl Lagerfeld shot three short films uh inspired by Magnum uh with uh Starlight Rachel Bilson as kind of his muse. And they screened these uh shorts at this event, and we provided these cocktails. And this is uh a cocktail where we actually took your technique of the rapid uh nitrous infusion and infused cacao nibs into VSOP cognac and Highland Park 12 Scotch. So uh Louis Royer, uh VSOP Cognac, Highland Park 12 Scotch with cacao nibs, and then uh the streak features lactart, which is uh extinct acid of milk that's been reborn and uh acts as a fantastic acid in the especially with the chocolate. It works really nicely with the chocolate, I think.
+
+[19:43] Right. And uh and the wood. Yeah, and one of the reasons that we really wanted to use it is when people come to you with certain flavors they want to work with. For for us in this instance, it was like chocolate, vanilla, you know, um all those kind of things that are very cloying in a cocktail at times. And this this allowed us to make you know that rich chocolate feel, you know, kind of creamy feel too, but without getting like cloing and sweet.
+
+[20:06] Overly heavy. And what's interesting about it is it's it's carbonated for all you can't taste it. Uh but um it's one of the few um kind of wooded carbonated drinks that I really like. You know what I mean? That's really because a lot of times, you know, you you you get like these kind of uh these mixes and you carbonate it and it can throw the throw the balance off and like the woods can go all out of proportion.
+
+[20:26] It could be a problem. But here I think it really works. And I think these also because these are foreign woods. You know, you have the Highland Park 12 or aged in the cherry casks and uh the the French oak, obviously on the VSO P cognac, whereas the like bourbons and ries are much more aggressive American oak. Yeah, I don't like them at all, usually carbonated.
+
+[20:45] I mean like the the worst drink maybe I've ever made, with the exception of in college, the worst drink I think I've ever made is uh carbonated Manhattan. It's an above. Um, so that was that was super cool. It's one of the drinks we did for that event. Um next up here, we just did uh uh a pretty fun project with uh smell it.
+
+[21:02] What's that uh what's that fruit? This is uh creme de muir. Uh it's merlay, creme de mure. So our friend Tony Cnigliaro in London. Good man, good man.
+
+[21:10] Worked with uh Luke Merlay to uh develop and create cocktails with their line of liqueurs in Europe. I have some stories about him that I can't say on the air. Does it involve an alligator hat? Or involves some crazy, crazy business. Anyway.
+
+[21:27] Uh uh Luke Merlet came to us and we did the uh cocktail development here for the States. And so this in particular is the creme de mure, the blackberry liqueur that we've turned into a phosphate soda. So it's the it's as soon as you open it, it's something we carbonate it again. Obviously, all those volatiles just come explode into the room with the carbonation. This is gin, uh tangra gin, acid phosphate, creme de mure, dash of orange bitters, uh four ounces of water, and then we carbonate it at uh 50 psi.
+
+[21:57] Nice. So acid phosphate, for those of you out, there's another one of these kind of extinct things is being brought back to the fore by uh a guy named Darcy O'Neal. His website's The Art of the Drink. He has a uh a uh book called uh Fix the Pumps, which uh is uh old soda jerk slang for look at the lady with the uh with the with the large chest. Yes.
+
+[22:13] Um extremely interesting book. He's bringing some of these old ingredients back. Um acid phosphate, the main uh component of it is uh phosphoric acid, and it's the acid that's in Coca-Cola and colas, and its characteristic is it's an extremely dry acid. It's actually if you get it in pure form, which is the way I have it, I don't have the acid phosphate. It's really hard to work with because if you go a little bit too far, you're like, boo!
+
+[22:36] Ho, hey! But it's like it's very interesting stuff, and I think it really works well with this with this drink. Do you find the same thing that sometimes it's hard to work with? That's it. Well, there is a big difference when uh we carbonated it ourselves versus using like a club soda, like the way it comes off on the palate.
+
+[22:52] So I mean, yeah, absolutely. I know what you you're referring to it. I would say this, there's you know, uh quarter ounce of acid phosphate in this, and that's the high end. Generally, depending on the drink, you get by with as much as a half teaspoon. Right.
+
+[22:59] So and you can get this stuff from from the art of the drink, right? Right. If it's a mail order from uh Toronto. Right. And uh and the the characteristic of this acid, and it's one of the acids that should see uh uh hopefully a resurgence, is it's it's dry cola-like nature of the acidity.
+
+[23:19] Not the flavor of cola, but that dry cola-like acidity. No, the the beauty is uh uh and you know, as opposed to lemon or lime juice, which have a very imposing flavor uh on their own, this ha brings that uh acidity to the drink, but it's very um it does not impose itself. It allows other, you know, flavors to come through very clean. Right. And as the only kind of inorganic acid we use and non-fruit-based acid, it doesn't lend an extra fruit note to the to the drink, which is uh something that's really it's kind of it's kind of cool.
+
+[23:50] And very nice drink. What's the name of that again? This uh which is uh blackberry phosphate. All right. Very simple.
+
+[23:56] We actually did a line for for as Chad mentioned, we did this for Malay liqueurs and we did phosphates for for every uh flavor expression of the liqueur brands, and it they all turned out wonderful. Different base spirits, different balances. Uh because obviously with the with the fruit liqueurs, they're you know, being a natural product, they're depending on how acidic or sweet the fruit is, they adjust the sugar. Oh oh wait, we have a call. Before I go to the collar though, I have to say, like I think and I see whether you guys agree, like e even if okay, when you're mixing a drink, a lot of times you obviously you're gonna use the real fruit, right?
+
+[24:30] Sure. But I think having the acids on board on hand and tasting and playing with them gives you such a sense for what's going on with different fruits and different acids. Like like studying the acids that you use in a drink, because it's such an important component, I think, is don't you think it's key to kind of becoming a better mixer? Oh, absolutely. Yeah.
+
+[24:48] I mean, the more options you have, the more kind of the more your understanding is across the board. Right. And by the way, uh, I'm gonna take the call in one second. But um the the f phosph um uh phosphoric acid gets a bad rap because uh uh if you drink it in very large quantities, it's a it can take calcium. And so people say that women shouldn't have too much phosphoric acid because it can reduce bone density.
+
+[25:09] I haven't seen any studies that moderate amounts of phosphoric acid are de detrimental. Um otherwise everyone who drinks cola would be dead. Well the other thing about acid phosphate and what makes it um more approachable to work with is the fact that it's partially neutralized. Uh it's you start with 10% phosphoric acid in solution and it's neutralized down to two percent with through uh calcium, magnesium, and potassium mineral salts. Yeah, because the phosphate will grip onto the calcium.
+
+[25:35] Right. Jack, did we lose the call or we still have them? No. Well, hopefully they call back. Maybe they got cut off with their with their cell phones.
+
+[25:42] They got thirsty. They got their they were like, oh, all this talk about drinks. Oh hopefully they hopefully they call back. All right, so what's our what's our next beverage? Uh so this next one is uh cocktail we're presenting uh we'll be serving at the upcoming uh MCC Manhattan Cocktail Classic opening gala on Friday night.
+
+[25:59] Which I'm working at too, you know. Sweet, yeah. And there's tickets still available. Really? Yeah, they're tickets still available.
+
+[26:04] Go uh okay. Not to plug an event that we're all working here, but uh I didn't go to the party last year. Apparently it was a good thing. Neither did we really, but I heard it was like the most insane party of like all crazy the entire New York Public Library, run amok, craziness, things falling, dwarves. Well, it's a pretty it's a pretty huge event.
+
+[26:22] 120 different bars, uh, you know, 120 different bars, different cocktails, bartenders serving individual drinks. Um, real glassware, black tie. We overtake the New York Public Library. But the scope of it is pretty big. You know what I'm doing for it?
+
+[26:36] I'm doing the non-alcoholic drinks. So I'm gonna I'm I'm taking five-gallon corny kegs, I'm strapping them onto a backpack, I'm filling them with soda water, and I have two uh soda valves, like the the squeeze valves and nice beckers. I'm gonna be running around like uh like uh like soda cowboy, like spraying soda. It's gonna be good. Good business.
+
+[26:54] I have a little uh 20-ounce CO2 um container that I'm filling with a nitrous soda mix, nitrous uh CO2 soda mix to keep myself pressurized as I walk around. Should be fun. Hydration man. I have hydration man. Hydration man.
+
+[27:06] Uh yeah, it's the first time I've ever done a non-alcoholic. Should be fun. So the soda stuff is so fun for non-alcoholic. It's good to visit Dave after, like, you know, you go to a booth, then you visit Dave. You go to a booth, then you visit Dave.
+
+[27:19] Exactly. Well, hopefully I can come I can come visit you. Well, uh yeah, it depends how many people I have working with me, whether or not I can uh how much uh you know I can walk around. Jack, do we ever get those guys back? No.
+
+[27:30] Um all right. I'm sorry, caller, that you got disconnected. Please call back. Uh what are we what are we drinking here? So this is a Byzantine julep.
+
+[27:37] It's uh Laird's Bonded Apple Jack. We are be going to be uh working at the Laird and Company bar. I wish you could smell this. So it's uh Laird's Bonded Apple Brandy, the 100 proof. Um an excellent product, an American product, one of the great American products.
+
+[27:50] The oldest native distilled spirit. They're coming up on 300 years. Um still family owned. Still family, ninth generation. Right.
+
+[27:59] I love their product, except for they also make some of the worst products in the world. They don't sell into their own name, but I've seen their little thing like uh don't they make Senators Club vodka? It's our personal favorite is uh five o'clock vodka. So we love five five o'clock. In Detroit, they mix it with uh with uh Fago uh orange soda and uh and if you have enough of them, they say uh you it's uh you're on your way to dance o'clock.
+
+[28:22] Oh man, man. Laird. Anyway, go ahead. Sorry. So uh bonded apple brandy, coriander tincture, uh mint, uh uh a little bit of malic acid, and um oh uh date date syrup, date, um date molasses and demerara syrup mixed together.
+
+[28:40] This will actually be serving this julep style over crushed ice, which so this will be a little bit better. That's a pain that's a pain in the buttons better diluted. Uh like crushed ice or they're gonna get it. Yeah, it's oh they're bringing it in, yeah. Oh yeah, all right.
+
+[28:50] Yeah. This is a really deep, deep tasting drink. It has a really kind of like a real big depth of flavor, and uh it's uh uh none of the components really kind of um pop out as being over over the top. You know what I mean? I think it's very well integrated.
+
+[29:03] And um I think maybe it's that maybe the depth is coming from the date. What do you think? Oh, definitely. Yeah. This drink was actually inspired by a trip that we took to Turkey.
+
+[29:12] Um so we're using some of those kind of you know, m more cool eastern flavors in there, and and it does have that total like unique depth to it. Yeah. The we also do a very slow roast on the Moroccan coriander seed and uh before we put it into or to make the tincture, and so that has a real depth and roundness to it itself. Coriander's weird. It's so interesting because you can get so many different flavors out of it depending on how you treat it, whether you toast it, whether you don't, whether you put it in a syrup, whether you do a tincture.
+
+[29:42] I've done some distillates for it for I did for Jimmy and I did a dissolute for him, and it was a totally different flavor. Like the distillate brought out uh a lot more of the kind of those kind of high citrusy notes, you know what I mean? And like uh the and not a lot of some of those base notes that you're gonna get out of a tincture. Yeah, coriander's a great, great, great thing. Yeah, it's incredibly versatile.
+
+[30:02] And good in a soda. Yeah, I'm gonna do a coriander soda. Uh one of uh one of the people I work with, Cliff was like, let's do a coriander soda. I was like, nah, I haven't heard of that before. Let's do it.
+
+[30:12] We'll do it. Do it. So it's coriander, and we're gonna round out the uh, you know, the mid-palette. If you just do straight coriander on a soda, the mid-pallate's lacking a little bit. So what we're gonna do is we're gonna hit it with um with some malic and citric to bring up the kind of citrusy notes of it, acid.
+
+[30:27] And then we're adding a touch of um Thai chili pepper because a little bit of spice brings it to that kind of gingery note. You know what I mean? And makes it more like uh a soda that you've had, but totally different. You know what I mean? Right.
+
+[30:40] What are we mixing up now? So this is uh my bike ride's gonna suck, by the way. Or be really fun. Uh so another event we've got we're doing uh during a Manhattan Cocktail Classic is we're doing the Kampari presents, a spirited fet for the senses, inspired by Padma Lakshmi at the box. The box.
+
+[30:59] It should be a really cool event. It's uh us. Uh we're doing uh uh this cocktail. It's uh our variation on the Negroni. It's uh we we're calling it the Marco Polo Negroni.
+
+[31:07] Inspired. Uh we were all asked to create variations on the Negroni based on Padma's cookbook, Tangy Tarte Hot and Sweet. When is this event? On Sunday evening at the box. Um and so this is basically a very uh classic uh peritif necroni, equal parts, uh beef eater, chinzano vermouth, um compari.
+
+[31:27] And then what we've done is we've added tincture of papali long pepper, tincture of mace, tincture of coriander, tincture of cardamom, and a very minute quantities, so it's recognizable as an agroni, but you there's definitely get the sense that it's exotic, and then with that piperine drawn out of the papali long pepper, your lips tingle, and it's a very that's a very floral, you know, pepper. So like an easy way to go on a Negroni variation is to add some form of citrus, but you go on the entire opposite direction of added kind of base notes and spicy notes to it. More aromatics, totally opposite direction from the way most people would because we still wanted to give it an a aromatic cocktail, but we've you'll as you taste it here, it's uh it is definitely a different animal. And by the way, for those of you out there who are just beginning your drinking careers, right? Uh there are a couple of drinks that you can order uh at a bar, and no matter who you are with, you are considered a badass or okay.
+
+[32:20] Negroni is one of those things. If you are with any sort of professional, I don't care who they are, how like fancy, how anything if you walk up and you're like, you know what I want now? A Negroni, then you're a badass. And and if anyone bothers you that you're ordering something that's vaguely pink, depending on how much whether they get it wrong with the vermouth, uh um just let them try it. Yeah, yeah, let them try it.
+
+[32:40] And plus everyone else who knows anything will laugh them out of the out of the universe. Negroni is one of like the all-time favorite drinks that people who like drinks like. Is this true? I I think so, yeah. It's I it's one of the quintessential aperitifs, and I think it's definitely an acquired flavor, but it's one that you're rewarded a lot of loyalty.
+
+[32:57] I always tell people when we do trainings, and you're working with bartenders who haven't been in the industry very long, they've not had the taste of compari, the ginchin, and and and the mix of the the gin and the sweet vermouth. If they taste it every time they make it, eventually one day they'll crave it. It's like yeah, right. The the the the the notes from the from the pepper coming out. You know what's interesting to me though, also, is that um they marry with the with the kampari flavor, and so the kampari is like it's like um the compari note is it's it's interesting because it doesn't dominate more than it normally does, but I can kind of pick it out more than it normally does.
+
+[33:34] It's kind of it's it's it's it's it it it it focuses it in a way. Yeah, yeah, yeah. The other thing is whoops, by the way, nah, geez. By the way, I'm spilling all over myself now. By the way, Campari, one of my favorite, one of my favorite products.
+
+[33:45] Although I do like Aperol, which they also own now. Yes, also delicious, different thing, but uh yeah. Uh I mean, you know, different similar. Oh, for sure. Yeah, but you know, Aperol, lower alcohol content, different flavor.
+
+[33:57] It's a bright, it's a brighter orange, it's a different orange. So the little bit of the little bit of spiciness and aromatic like makes you go back for that next sip. And the garnish is trying to figure it out. It's like just enough there to like really pique your imagination and curiosity with what flavors you're getting. So for the garnish, we actually uh curried uh some orange juice and um and then compressed that curried orange juice into the orange.
+
+[34:20] So as you taste that I'm gonna eat the orange. I ate the whole thing of creme of jerk, including the rind. Oh, yeah. Yeah. But it I think it came out.
+
+[34:30] Right, yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah, I've got some heat on it. But it's a really wonderful curry flavor. Oh, and I guess we should we should point out we were asked to specifically the four categories were tangy, uh tart, hot or tart tangy tart, hot and sweet, and we chose hot.
+
+[34:46] So that's why the papali, and that's why the curry. You guys are no strangers to freaking heat on a drink, though. You guys uh made a drink once, and this is before I knew you. Um you I don't know whether both of you or whether it just Chad did an event at the SCI with a um that was me, yeah. Yeah.
+
+[35:03] With a hot pepper drink. Put me on mine behind. I can drink I can drink anything. The La Patada, the kick, yes. Uh, with the with the Chipotle uh uh the Chipotle if you're mezcal.
+
+[35:14] Yeah, that was some hardcore business. Yeah. We were talking we were telling somebody about that drink last night, actually. And we're talking uh that event that was the art of uh art of the cocktail that um uh Yvonne Ivan Lemoyne held there. What are you what's he doing now?
+
+[35:27] I think he's got his uh his uh iFood Studios. Nice, nice. Yeah, I haven't seen him in a long time. Hey Jack, can we go to one more commercial break and take a little bit longer than we normally do? Cause I got some questions I gotta get to.
+
+[35:36] Yes, we can. All righty, we're going to commercial break. Call in your last chance to ask questions. 718 497 2128 cooking issues. Remember how the stones will be like, This is a public service announcement from Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[37:52] Every Thursday at 4.30 p.m. tune in to Flash Talks Cash, hosted by Joanne Flash Fleming. Flash Talks Cash is a weekly talk show discussing personal and small business money issues. The show examines current topics from the financial tax world and the ways it impacts your wallet. The focus is to help people and small businesses find ways to make money, save money, spend money, and know what to do with your money when you get it.
+
+[38:18] Again, that's every Thursday at 4 30 p.m. on the Heritage Radio Network. They are a little bit country, a little bit rock and roll. They are southerners who are I consider to be New Yorkers now, even though they live all over the country, but they they do have both both angles going, right? Do you uh you had something you guys are working on now?
+
+[38:47] A uh combination of cocktail culture and and music or well, we were just interviewed for uh webs or a new website called Rocktail Culture, which we just loved. It's great. It is the uh intersection of cocktails and rock music, which totally speaks to us. It's uh I think that the guy behind it is David Blutenthal, and he's uh he works in the the music business. We have yet to meet him face to face.
+
+[39:08] Uh had a great conversation with them over the phone. He uh is a cocktail geek uh and also really obviously very passionate about music and has kind of merged the two in a s in into a kind of an interesting site where he interviews bands about their drinking habits on the road and their interest in cocktails and then bartenders, you know, advice. Yeah. Nice. Uh all right.
+
+[39:30] So listen, I'm gonna tell you this. You have one last chance to call in to ask some cool drinks questions to our amazing drink panel here. 718 497 2128. 718 497 2128. I am now gonna go over in Blitzkrieg fashion the email questions that have come in.
+
+[39:46] You guys chime in if you have any any anything you you want to talk about. Okay. Uh Teddy DeVico, uh who is uh teen chef teddy.blogspot dot dot com or something like that. That's it. I I think blogspot's the funniest thing in the world, the word the word blog spot.
+
+[40:00] By the way, I'm getting lit up on their drinks there. Okay. Hey David Nastasha, first off, I want to thank you guys for doing the podcast. Hey, thank you for liking it. I listen to it every week and I learn a lot.
+
+[40:08] I have two random questions. One has anyone ever tried making chocolate from coffee beans or coffee from cocoa nibs? Both of them go through very similar processes, and I think it would be possible to make such products. Okay, here's the issue. Uh they have different kinds of uh fat levels, right?
+
+[40:22] So coffee has a certain amount of oil in it, and that's the delicious coffee oils that when you when you roast to a uh very dark stage come out. But uh, in order to make chocolate per se, you need a very high quantity of of uh of fat. And cocoa butter has a very specific uh kind of melting profile, and it's a much more saturated solid fat than uh coffee is. So uh you could make you could take coffee powder and reduce it to very, very, very, very fine powder and then grind it over a course of time with cocoa butter and produce something that had the texture of chocolate. If you then ate that product, it might be delicious.
+
+[40:58] I'm not gonna take away from the delicious aspect, but you are going to be running to the toilet and shaking like a chihuahua dog because the caffeine is gonna take you uh for a serious ride. A friend of mine used to be a manager at a coffee shop in uh in New Haven, Connecticut, and he used to take uh Turkish ground coffees, which is about the finest ground that anyone uses, and dump it on vanilla ice cream and eat it in between his uh cigarette breaks. And I've never seen a human being who shook faster than that guy. He's literally like a human blur. Um so I I wouldn't necessarily you could do it, but I wouldn't I wouldn't uh recommend it.
+
+[41:33] And and cocoa nibs, if you treated them like coffee, you roast them to a lower temperature than you do coffee because of the oils and whatnot, and and and it doesn't quite follow the same roasting profile. There's a lot of uh fat in there. You could brew a beverage, but there's also the extractables from cocoa are are a different kind of percentage than you would get out of the coffee. So you kind of, if you're doing espresso, which is all I really care about, you would get a different kind of uh extraction. So I don't know if it would work the same, but you could we you it's it's not impossible, but you have to uh account for the different fat levels and the different solubilities and things they're extracting out of it.
+
+[42:07] Make sense? Mm-hmm. Makes sense. All right. Uh two.
+
+[42:10] With dry aging beef, you have to trim off the molded exterior, but if you were to eat that, would it be harmful to you? I'm gonna be harmful per se, but it might be gross. Uh I know eating moldy exterior would not be pleasant by itself. Oh, there you go. But I think you would be able to make a super beefy funky sauce with the trimmings of dry aged beef.
+
+[42:24] Typically the trimmings have a super funky odor, and most people like a little bit of funk in their meat, but not like a hardcore amount of funk. So if you get a dry age piece of meat, hardcore, the the uh after they trim it for you when they're gonna cut it and sell it to you. If you want to know the super funk, smell that bone. Because the bone where the bone is, they don't trim off that little piece of skin on this on the bone. That's what that funk is.
+
+[42:44] And this is why certain chefs like Adam Perry Lang comes to mind, uh, don't like to cook dry aged beef in a bag, uh, low temper sous-vide because that funk then permeates the whole thing. I think a little bit of funk, a good thing. I think a lot of funk, and like you might like it, and like maybe like a couple other people might like it, but a good 50-60% of your guests aren't gonna groove on it. What do you think? I think that sounds about right.
+
+[43:09] All right. Uh keep coming with the uh with the excellent questions, Teddy. All right, we have a question from Alvin Schutz. Uh hello, he's a longtime listener, first time emailer. Thank you for emailing.
+
+[43:19] Please email more. Uh, he also enjoys the blog. Thank you. Appreciate it. Um, okay.
+
+[43:23] We hope we can take some time to talk about barbecue. With barbecue, awesome subject, right? Uh, do you know the burn temps for lump charcoal versus brick briquettes versus propane? And also, Alton Brown says that burning propane produces water vapor that inhibits smoke penetration into meat. But many smokers employ a water pan to moisten the cooking environment.
+
+[43:40] How is this different? Alton Brown, much as I love Alton Brown, he is just straight up wrong on this, right? When you burn propane, it is true that water is produced. However, uh uh, if you stick your hand into a uh a big box full of a propane fire, it's not gonna get cold and clammy. It's gonna burn.
+
+[44:00] You know what I mean? Because although water vapor is produced, right, you're also producing a tremendous amount of heat. And in fact, the food itself already has water in it, and as you say, there's a water pan uh there, right? And it and specifically what he's talking about is smoking. If you're smoking, you're not using charcoal, you're using wood, because charcoal doesn't produce the smoked flavor unless you have fat dripping on it, and then we have uh the the flare-up from the fat that are creating those flavors on the meat.
+
+[44:26] Smoke flavor comes from burning wood. When you burn wood, which is an organic substance that is uh their hydrocarbons in it that are burning, you are also producing water. So when you are uh even if you don't soak your wood chips, you're producing water when you're combusting wood to produce smoke. There ain't there ain't two ways about it. That's all there is to it.
+
+[44:44] The only uh like way is if you were to 100% efficiently combust charcoal that was 100% well made, the you're basically just producing carbon dioxide because there's not uh a lot of hydrogen left in it. It's basically turned to carbon. But otherwise, you are producing water when you're burning it. So I don't think it's a huge freaking issue. What is an issue is that in order to get good smoke penetration on your meat, you need to get the the uh the surface moisture of your of your product down to below about 10% moisture, which is why you dry your product out first, you form a pellicle before you're gonna smoke it, and it's it's nice and dry.
+
+[45:16] Now it's gonna suck up a smoke like the like the end of the world is coming. But don't worry about uh uh propane, right? But uh the smoky flavors, right, aren't made from the propane. Smoky flavors are made from the crappy, incomplete combustion of a complicated product, which is wood. Uh and ch and gr charcoal grilling flavors are made by fat dripping off of your meat and hitting charcoal, flaring up and like and like you know charring your your meat that way.
+
+[45:44] That's where those those flavors come from. As for the different temperatures, um, the different temperatures depend on how much oxygen is uh is available to it, but the the temperatures aren't that radically different between propane, methane, and a well-fueled charcoal fire. Uh would fire maybe a little bit less because it's incompletely burning and there's a lot there m there's moisture in there, whatnot. But here's the here's the kicker, right? The reason why gas grills aren't usually as good as charcoal grills, right?
+
+[46:18] Propane has about 91,000 or 90,000 BTUs per hour of uh of of energy per sorry per pound, right? 91,000 BTU. So if you burned a pound an hour, you're doing about as well as my deep fryer, which is really, really good. Really good. But uh most gas grills don't burn that much propane.
+
+[46:37] They just don't have enough balls to really do what you want, right? Now, even though charcoal, right, even good hardwood charcoal um doesn't have um doesn't have uh that many BTUs per hour, I mean BTUs per pound compared to propane, much less, in fact, like on the order of like 10,000 versus like 90,000, right? What you can do with with charcoal is dump an entire bag into your Weber at once, fire that sucker up, burn it like within like an hour, you can you can release all of that energy at once, right? So you get to control this immense release of energy with the charcoal. So you can overwhelm it and produce more energy and get a huge amount of power out of your charcoal just because you can burn it in faster uh higher quantities than you do propane.
+
+[47:27] If you had a real propane burner, like like fed with oxygen, I can melt a you know, I can melt steel with it. You know what I mean? So it's not like I can't get the energy out of it. It's just your your gas grill is puny in comparison to what you can do with the average charcoal grill. Even though the theoretical temperatures, and by the way, like they they they quote temperatures like 1900 degrees Celsius and all that, that's like for the very hottest part of the flame.
+
+[47:53] That's nowhere near what the temperature is on your meat. What's really important is the heat you're producing on meat. And actually, charcoal is also very good for that too, because once it burns down, it produces a lot of radiant heat, and that radiant heat is really good at delivering heat uh to your meat. So uh if you had the world's ballsiest like propane burner, you could definitely outdo someone with who was underusing charcoal, but it's hard to beat dumping an entire bag of charcoal on your on your grill for just kind of straight balls. Does that make sense?
+
+[48:22] Yeah. Yeah, I mean to your meat. Heat to your meat, it's all about heat to your meat. Um second question was uh is it gonna is it possible to achieve myard reactions in eggs cooked to temperatures between 62 and 67 Celsius, preferably in a wet cooking environment without increasing the PH to unpalatable levels? I don't think so.
+
+[48:41] Uh typically um the myard reactions I get are higher, closer to the boiling point of uh water, and so I don't think you're gonna be able to um to to get to get those things. This is a different question from from Daniel. He also says weeks ago we mentioned upcoming Mofad fundraiser, that's Museum of Food and Drink in the Bay Area. He's tried contacting Mofad and has not received a reply. Daniel, stay tuned.
+
+[49:04] We've just hired a full-time person to work on the Museum of Food and Drink. She's starting up on June 1st, and she's gonna be taking over that website and she's gonna answer your reply. One of her first things is to get this fundraiser ready in the Bay Area. Someone will reply to you. Please send another email.
+
+[49:20] We don't want to leave you hanging. Anyone that wants to either go or be involved, we want you there. It's very uh to me personally important that we um we try to get this this museum going. Now, before we leave, I was looking up charcoal, right? And a couple things I learned.
+
+[49:36] I learned I read a book on uh on uh I'm sorry, I read an article on charcoal uh that was interesting to me and bizarre. It's called The Influence of Aromatic Components from and I don't know what actually it's not about charcoal, but I found it. I searched these scientific documents, right? The influence of aromatic components from pig manure on odor and flavor of cooked chicken meat by L. L.
+
+[49:58] Hanson. So it turns out that these guys were like, hey, listen, because do you guys know this? If you if you grow your chickens over moldy bedding that's really moldy, like you can get a moldy flavor in your meat. Sure. So these guys were like, well, I wonder if the smell of crap also makes its way into the meat.
+
+[50:18] So they literally raised chicken. This said, like, this is how horrible like our food production has gotten. Rather than saying, why don't we not have our chicken coops smell so awful that um that that like we can't stand being anywhere near them. Instead, we're like, well, let's see whether we can really taste the meat after it's been stored in these horrible ways. We justify it.
+
+[50:38] Yeah, so they literally literally pumped pig crap stink into like these chicken growing coops for a period of time, uh, and then did side-by-side blind taste tests on the different kinds of meat, whether uh whether or not you could tell that they were raised in pig stink. And turns out you can't, but what a horrible new world horrible idea. All right, so listen. Uh we're we're on our way out, but I want I want you guys to get the final word. What do you what do you what do you got for us?
+
+[51:10] What do you got? Anything. What do we got? Um nothing. Visit our website.
+
+[51:18] Yes. Okay, given the website. We have a new website. It's uh W W. Cuffs and Buttons.com.
+
+[51:24] C-U-F-F-S-A-N-D-B-U-T-T-O-N-S.com. And my next band will be Pigstink Chicken Cooking Issues. Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Networks in the iTunes Store.
+
+[51:59] You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up to date news and information. Thanks for listening. And now here's some behind the scenes food news with Katie Kiefer. On MeetingPlace.com this week, uh Lisa M. Keefe, one of their principal writers, published the following article about the USDA's child nutrition program.
+
+[52:24] She reports that on Tuesday, the USDA began implementing new rules that are intended to put more locally grown agricultural products on school children's plates. Part of the Healthy Hunger Free Kids Act of 2010, which was signed by President Obama in December, the rules allow schools and other providers to quote, give preference to unprocessed, locally grown, and locally raised agricultural products. When buying food for the national school lunch, school breakfast, special milk, child and adult care, fresh fruit and vegetable, and summer food service programs. Quote, this rule is an important milestone that will help ensure that our children have access to fresh produce and other agricultural products, said Agriculture Under Secretary Kevin Cuncanon in a news release. It will also give a much needed boost to local farmers and agricultural producers.
+
+[53:15] This is Katie Kiefer for behind the scenes food news. Did you know we have a beer show? Check out a small clip from Beer Sessions Radio. All right, welcome back to Beer Sessions Radio on Heritage Radio Network. I'm Jimmy Carboni from Jimmy's number 43, and I'm here with Ray Dieter from the DBA boys.
+
+[53:39] Hey Jim. Ray, this is a fun show. We're drinking Belgian beer, we're drinking Ichttagum, hanging out with the guys from the 124 Rabbit Club. We got uh Don and Wendy from Van Berg the Wolf. Well, let's go back a little bit to kind of build your pedigree.
+
+[53:52] So the two of the two of your top brands that we love and that you have now, Scaldis and Caison DuPont. Tell us uh how you met those guys, how you started working with them. Well, Caisse on the Pont was really that was if you want to hear more, head over to Heritage Radio Network.com, where new episodes of beer sessions are posted every week in our archive. And don't forget to subscribe to the podcast and iTunes.
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+[0:00] The following program has been brought to you by Kane Vineyard and Winery. Kane Vineyard and Winery supports Heritage Radio and the growing movement to change how Americans eat and how we think about our planet. For more information, visit www.kane5.com. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. I am Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues here today in the studio.
+
+[0:30] Nastasha the Hammer Lopez coming to you live every Tuesday from roughly noon to twelve forty-five. Calling all of your questions, uh technical cooking or non-technical cooking, or not even cooking related, too. 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. So Nastasha, I'm excited because tomorrow our new 3D printer arrives.
+
+[0:51] I know. Right. Now, folks, uh, for those of you out there that uh know, we have a uh basically a Cornell Fab at home 3D printer, which is an extrusion technology that is used to print food directly. What we're getting now is a Z Corp printer. Z Corp printer is a commercial 3D printer, and you can print basically in in it prints in powder.
+
+[1:11] So we we're gonna be doing mainly uh plaster molds, I think. We're gonna be making plaster with it. It can do in color, did you know it could do in color, Nastasha? Yes, a color color plaster printer. Or in starch.
+
+[1:21] But uh we'll keep you posted on what we make with that. Nastash is currently stinking up the studio with a um with a some sort of space heater that's making the entire uh studio stink of electric heater with dust on it that just got turned on for the first time, which is amazing since it's almost summertime and it's actually quite warm and muggy in the studio, so there's no reason. Yeah, very good, very good. I have eight cavities. Uh that that's that's a very interesting fact.
+
+[1:47] Do you know how many cavities I've had in my whole life? Zero, I know. Zero. Uh for those of you that don't know, Nastasha, besides not really enjoying most of the foods that we all enjoy, even though she's in the food business, subsists almost entirely on candy. Not just any candy.
+
+[2:03] Nastasha craves any sort of sour candy, correct? Yeah. Yeah. I've seen her in under, under uh here another interesting fact. Here's how she can claim that she does not eat the entire package of candy because she has an aversion to certain colors of candy.
+
+[2:20] Uh uh, to be fair, based on whatever artificial flavor is in them. But I think it's also mainly a color thing. I mean, i it is true that I blindfolded her and she was able to distinguish which colors by taste. So it's not that she can't do that. It's just I think that she has matched the color with the taste in her mind, and it's the color that bothers her.
+
+[2:38] So tell everyone out there in case they're gonna send you some sour patch or or sour crybaby candy is what you like the most, right? Which are the colors that you hate, Nastasha? Cherry, red, and lemon yellow, and sometimes orange. Sometimes orange. Mm-hmm.
+
+[2:52] Yeah. Okay. And but these are interestingly, even though the flavors are different, these are the same colors that you dislike in other sour candies, correct? Yes, that's true. That's true.
+
+[3:01] Uh okay. How many cavities? Eight. Eight? Yeah.
+
+[3:07] So uh yesterday I did uh the experimental cuisine collectives yearly uh yearly uh hoo ha shindig thing, right? I gave it I gave a talk. And Nastasha was notably absent because apparently she was at the dentist getting her face drilled out, and she called me and said, I'm coming to the event, but I'm high on Xanax and Vicadin. I was like, why don't you go home and sleep that off? Is this a true story or a false story?
+
+[3:30] Yeah. Okay. So uh the in the ongoing annals of uh cinnamon hydrocolloids, James McCulloch writes in from Australia. He says, uh, I remember you were discussing the gelling qualities of cinnamon a few weeks ago, and he has been doing some experimenting. So uh basically he did an experiment where he uh mixed cinnamon, he said pictures of it actually.
+
+[3:53] Oh my god, the pictures aren't coming up on my iPad, that's unfortunate. But uh okay. So he decided to leave the cinnamon out of his spice mix until after water was added. So he made a spice mix, added water, uh, and it was you know thin and and fluid, and then added cinnamon to it, and after a while it got kind of uh thick and snotty, I believe is what is what he said. Snotty, did he say snotty?
+
+[4:13] Gooey gel. Phlm-like texture, phlegm. Well, that's interesting. Phlm is the uh a phlegm-like texture is the characteristic texture of a hydrocolloid called Xanthan gum, which basically is used as thickening uh thickening agent, but in higher concentrations turns to I call it snot. You're very polite.
+
+[4:29] Uh I guess they're more polite in Australia than they are here, calling it phlegm. Maybe we should call it phlegm from now on instead of snot. Yeah. Yeah? Alright.
+
+[4:36] All right. Uh so that's interesting. I tried to find uh I and I've tried to find before, and I tried to find again this morning the um whether there was any known hydrocolloid in uh in cinnamon. There is a h there is a polysaccharide called s like cinnamon polysaccharide AX, which is supposed to have some sort of bioactive uh properties, but I wasn't able to find it anything. I mean, it it makes sense to me that ground up bark would have some thickening, which is what it is, would have some thickening uh power.
+
+[5:04] There is a actual hydrocolloid gum called Casia gum, but it's from an unrelated um cassia to the well not unrelated, but not the same cassia that we use for uh cinnamon substitute, and also it's from the seeds, not from the bark. Uh I I thought maybe that that maybe cellulose in the ground up uh bark would also act as a hydrocolloid, but cellulose itself doesn't really uh act uh isn't soluble at all until it's been treated uh either with acid or with with other things to make things like microcrystinal cellulose MCC gum or cellulose gum so I I don't know that it's a cellulose but there's got to be something in there I mean you can see in the picture that that it does do something. I hope I can find if there's any hydrocolloid expert out there can you please call and tell us what is in cinnamon that causes gelling properties. Anyway uh Brian in New Zealand so we're doing the Australian and New Zealand show today which I enjoy you know I've never been to I've never been over there. We should go you want to you know Dave Chang just opened uh a new place in uh Australia and he he loves it down there he says it's fantastic New Zealand well I want to go to New Zealand because I want to go to the home of the New Zealand uh the New Zealand grapefruit aka the Purman Orange which is one of my favorite citruses on the planet that we had at Gene Lester's ranch out in Watsonville, California.
+
+[6:18] Was that one of your favorites there? Yeah that was really delicious. But they don't ship it here and they don't grow it here because because we're dumb. Okay Brian has a comment on the uh thermal mix and for those of you who uh don't live in Europe which is most of us I guess right uh the thermal mix is and I guess they have them in Australia New Zealand as well. Uh thermal mix is basically is made for a home but all of the fancy European chefs use them.
+
+[6:42] Uh they they're basically a blender slash heater slash not really a food processor more a blender heater scale and they have like a stainless steel trough that you do things in. And um you know in the US we don't really have them very all uh very much because they're not very uh widely distributed and we use our vita prep blenders. And so here's a comment from Brian uh the question about thermal mixes the other weeks maybe write this email. I absolutely love my thermal mix. I got it almost exclusively to hydrate hydrocolloids, cuts down on dishes, saves me time in not needing to stir.
+
+[7:14] I love it. I also happen to use it as a blender because it is there and it beats most other blenders out there, which is true, but I still want a vita prep, Brian. I'm gonna have to go ahead and say entirely fair. That's an entirely fair set of comments right there. And yes, you do still want a vita prep because they kick some serious butt.
+
+[7:32] I like myself a vitaprep. But I think you're right. Um, you know, when we teach hydrocolloids, it can be a pain in the butt sitting there stirring, and you can turn a thermomix on low and just have it stir in agar from cold and heat without even watching it, and it's not gonna scorch. So I think I think you're right. I'm gonna take back anything I've ever said.
+
+[7:50] And if you do a lot of hydrocolloid work, I'm gonna say that the thermal mix is an awesome thing to have uh sitting around, especially for heated hydrocolloids, which would be agar, carrageenin, um I don't know, big, you know, uh j uh gel an uh, you know, even anything like that. So that's a good call, Brian. Thank you. Thank you for the thank you for the comment. Uh Derek Baching writes in on Gummy Bears.
+
+[8:14] He's a blogger, uh, and uh he was a contestant on Top Chef Canada. Oh. I don't know, I don't know how he did. I hope you did well, Derek. Uh he called in a few weeks ago about making heat resistant Burblanc.
+
+[8:24] And uh we were talking then about gum arabic and Xanthan gum mix, the one we get from TIC gums. You know, the one that we use for for almost anything for for alcoholic drinks. Uh he hasn't gotten it yet, but he did try some of the pointers about making gummy bears, and he asked a pastry chef friend about making gummies, and she said the same same thing that we said, which is that you have to make starches out of uh uh molds out of cornstarch, and he wants some ideas on these molds. Well, here's the thing. You don't buy, you don't buy a cornstarch mold.
+
+[8:49] What you do is you you take cornstarch and you dry it out for a long time in a in a dry room, usually, you know, a couple of days, in like, oh, you you could use a dehydrator, I would guess, or like a low oven, really, really dehydrate it. And if you really want to do a bang up job, see in the days what they would do back in the days, uh you know, in the you know 1800, late 1800s, early 1900s, they would uh, and to to this day, I mean they still do it, but in other words, just old technology, is you would take the uh starch and you would use it, and after a while it would absorb crap out of your candies and it would become uh old or dead. I think they called it dead starch, dead, I think is what they used. Uh and so but it when you got a new batch of starch in, the starch didn't hold impressions very well. So what they would do is they would take a certain portion of their dead starch and then sift it back in with their brand new starch and do their molds, right?
+
+[9:37] Uh if you don't want to have to do that, I would go to the National Starch Corporation, National Starch uh, you know, food innovations uh brand, they make something called new mold, N-U-M-O-U-L-D, new mold, which is cornstarch with a small amount of mineral oil that's been mixed in so it holds an impression right from the beginning without having to already have starch that has uh stuff in it to have it really take a mold well. After you get your new starch, put it in your dehydrator uh at like 60 Celsius or something for uh you know, like tw 24 to six, you know, 48 hours, something like that to really dry it out. Then what you have to do is you build a box almost like a frame uh with a bottom in it. Uh so you know, like you can use you know uh one by twos or whatever uh and a like masonite on the bottom, get it nice and flat, put your starch in it, then take uh a ruler and strike it flat across. So now you have a bed of cornstarch that is, you know, perfectly even and flat, right?
+
+[10:33] Now you take another piece of uh you know, stiff like masonite or board, and you make this is how you do the mold. You take the shape that you want it. So you have to have like little little like like wooden waxed or like really smooth, that has to be really smooth or like plaster or whatever, gummy bears or whatever, and they're all on this board, and you press it into your cornstarch mixture, and then you lift it up very carefully, right? And that is how you mold it. So now you have a bed of cornstarch with a bunch of shapes of uh gummy bears or stars or hearts or chickens or whatever in it, and then you deposit your gelatin and or whatever, whatever you're gonna do, and then it depending on the product, something like uh like gelatin with gummy bears, you would then put it back in your dehydrator um for uh you know uh up to a couple of days at a at a slow dehydration rate.
+
+[11:22] If you dehydrate too quickly, you case harden the outside and they never they never set properly. So it's the there's a couple articles you can read on it if you're interested. Uh one that I would suggest that's pretty interesting is modeling diffusion of moisture during stoving of starch molded confections by MB Um Sud Harsan and G.R. Ziegler coming out of uh Switzerland and the university uh Penn State University here in in Pennsylvania. So take a look at that article and uh see whether you get any good information.
+
+[11:52] And with that, I will go to our first commercial break, but please call in your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues. You don't know how many times I pushed that I told you. You don't know how many times I pushed that I could hold you. You don't know how many times I wish that I could hold you into someone who could cherish me as much as I Cherish you should work with more than a blog to the whole in my heart each time I re hold But I am not gonna be the one to share your dreams that I am not gonna be the one to share your schemes, but I am not gonna be the one to share what seems to be the life that you could cherish as much as I do.
+
+[13:24] That man has never found the words that could make you what we have the right amount of letters, just the right sound that could make you hear. My goodness, Nastasha, my goodness, cherish this game sings that every single day. Every single day I always sing like I always think some like a horrible variant of it. I never actually sing cherish. I I'm always do it it's always something horrible and not cherishing.
+
+[13:57] For hearing all of my all of my uh ver different different unsavory versions of cherish. Alright. Call in your questions to seven one eight four nine seven two one two eight. Seven one eight four nine seven two one two eight. 7184972128.
+
+[14:12] Alright. So I had a question in from uh oh, another question from Derek from Derek Backing about Tarte. He's been making a tomato tartatan at work and it's been falling apart when he demolds it. So it's another molding question. That's interesting.
+
+[14:25] So uh tartatan, you know, for those of you tan, tartan. Anyway, so for those of you out there who aren't hip to it, it's uh, you know, it's the famous uh French, you know, upside down apple doodad, which you know, yeah, apples cook them. Uh after the apples have been cooked down, have lost a lot of their moisture, you can then also add some then reduced juice as long as it's really reduced. You put a layer of uh of uh pastry on the top, throw it in your oven, you cook it, and uh when the pastry is done, you pull it out, and then you flip it and unmold it, and there you have it, right? Um so the the he's making one with tomatoes, right?
+
+[15:02] And so the I uh my guess is the reason it's he he's tried a bunch of things to try and keep it holding together. He's been uh making a tomato water gel to pour into the molds with uh guar and pectin and agar, um, but they've been they've been not really working as well as he wants. So I I need to figure out exactly why it is that it's not working. I wouldn't use uh guar, pectin, and agar to hold it together. If you really want that sucker to hold together, um, what you're gonna have to do is use something like gel-an, which is once it sets, is never going to unset.
+
+[15:34] In which case you would then cook it, uh, then let the thing come down to temperature, right? Uh it come down so that the gel ansets, then heat it slightly again, in case there's some like sugars there, and then unmold it. But the problem is that the the real way tartatan is supposed to unmold is that the sugars stay uh liquid, whereas the fruit holds together enough with its own sort of like gelling power and pectin and the fact that it's been caramelized, and then it unmolds. I think your main problem is that you have just too much water in there. And if you're going to add uh a gelee, I it's I think it's still gonna have your your pastry come out kind of soggy.
+
+[16:13] I think your main goal here is gonna be to get rid of water. So what what I would do, and actually Melissa Clark from uh you know who writes for the New York Times, or at least used to, I think she still does, right? I don't have no idea. Anyway, uh she did an article in 2008 on tomato tartatin where she had a very similar problem. So she switched from larger tomatoes to smaller tomatoes and and uh made sure that they were just cooked down a lot before before she added uh the pastry on on top.
+
+[16:37] So I would consider using the smaller uh tomatoes, squeezing the seeds out after you peel them, but don't throw that away because that's all the flavor, reducing that first before you while you're cooking the tomatoes, and then add that reduction back and then put the lid on top of it. Just make sure you have enough sugar in there to uh hold it to form like a thick caramel that's gonna hold everything together, and make sure that your water content's not too high. And if you do that, you should be okay. If you're gonna then bolster it with a gel, I would do it with a gel that doesn't melt. And the only ones that don't melt that taste good would be something like gel-an.
+
+[17:13] And I would use a low A sol gel-an, um, which is the the firm one, the brittle one, because that one is uh clear and it's not gonna give a cloudy appearance to your to your tartatin. So um I these sound like good suggestions or no, all right. So hopefully that works out for you, let us know. Let us know, let us know how that goes. Okay.
+
+[17:33] Uh so I have uh another series of questions from our good buddy Kang Ken Ingber, uh, and says that we we neglected to make the joke about uh terroir when McGee was on and we were talking about roto vap being dirt. But it's funny you should say that um because that is exactly what so we're talking about it uh a couple weeks ago, someone called in and they had a roto vap, and Harold McGee was online and um asked what he should be making with a roto vap, which is a vacuum still. And McGee mentioned that one of the famous early cooking applications of uh rotary evaporation was the one you know roca, the roca brothers at uh El Calar Can Roca, one of the great restaurants in Spain, uh they put dirt water into a roto vap and then uh distilled off the essence of dirt, oh de dirt, oh de terror, and then although I don't know how to say that in Spanish. Do you know? Do you remember?
+
+[18:26] I don't remember. You know what Nastasha is? Nastasha is is anyone have you ever seen have you ever seen Born in East LA? No. You never never seen Born in the East LA?
+
+[18:34] You remember the song uh uh Born in the USA? Mm-hmm. Yeah. So Cheech Marin did a cover of it called Born in East LA and it had some success as a video. And then um he is he's an American and he lives in of Mexican descent, who lives in East LA and uh doesn't have an ID on him and gets deported to Mexico, and his whole joke is that he doesn't speak Spanish, right?
+
+[18:56] That is Nastasha. So Nastasha could be in East LA, uh, you know, close to where she's from, not have ID, get deported to Mexico and not speak any Spanish. That's conceivable, right? That's right. So you could be living that movie.
+
+[19:10] I lost it. You could be living that movie. Yeah, okay. Anyway, uh it's not that it's a good movie. I enjoy it because I enjoy anything with Cheech Cheech Marin in it.
+
+[19:19] But uh anyway, so uh how do we get on that? What were we talking about? Rotovaps. So um El Calar Can Roca, uh famous dish, just dirt water with oysters, and then uh uh, but the actual reason that they did that was because they wanted you to experience no joke, the terroir of like in a literal sense, the terroir of their region. So they would get dirt from this particular you know forest that they used to go and play in as kids, and it would have that moist, uh that moist here comes the space eater again, Nastasha turns on.
+
+[19:51] You pretend that I can't smell it. It's cold. It is not at all. Folks, folks, uh if if I ever wore shorts in my life, which I don't because I hate them, I would be wearing shorts right now. Anyway, um geez.
+
+[20:06] Okay, so they so they so they they wanted you to experience, and in the in Juan Roka's uh like his words, and because I asked him about it uh years ago, he wants you to experience the feeling he had as a child right after the rain in the morning when you go out in the forest and you get that smell, mixed with uh, you know, like the local oysters that they can also get by. So literal terroir was the reason behind that that dish. Okay. Uh so here's uh Ken's question on uh onions and other things and mirapoi and sauces. I was making a veggie-intensive tomato sauce for a weeknight meal, uh, mushrooms, onion, carrots, uh carrots, green peppers, and garlic.
+
+[20:44] Uh, but several questions came to mind. Uh and I and he hopes that they are of general interest. Well, we'll see. Uh uh he said, maybe I need a primer on onions. Some recipes talk about sauteing onions for five to eight minutes.
+
+[20:55] My onions hardly change at all in such a short period of time. Um, and uh, if he jacks up the heat, uh he singes the edges of the onions, but don't really accomplish much else. If his goal is to soften the onions, wouldn't an hour and a half and tomato sauce do that. And if my goal is to caramelize uh caramelize the onions, what aren't we talking about a much longer period of time than any home cook spends on onions for tomato sauce? And so the question is what is a softened onion?
+
+[21:18] Okay, uh, it's an interesting question. So there are a bunch of things that are going on. Um, and he's gonna ask about because I pre-read the questions. I don't want anyone out there to pretend that I'm haven't read the questions before they come on, and I'm I just know all this crap off the top of my head. Although I really do.
+
+[21:32] Anyway, uh the the book to get on this whole subject of onions, and I know we've uh and garlic, but uh onions as well, and I know that I've mentioned this book on the on the show before, but it's really kind of a one-of-a-kind thing is Garlic and Other Alliums, The Lore and the Science. That's a good title, right? By Eric Block. And it's one of the only uh kind of books on food that I own that has a uh a preface written by a Nobel laureate. And this book was brought to my attention, as most other good things are by uh Harold McGee.
+
+[22:02] And while this book is very highly technical, and huge chunks of it are only going to be of use to trained uh organic chemists. Um it also has a bunch of sections on cooking that uh that that talk about interesting things, and also about things like uh here chapter two is all things allium, alliums, which you know, anything onions, garlic leaks, alliums in literature, the arts and culture. So it's really an all-around book, and it's one of those books that you kind of need to have in your uh in your in your house just so you can say that you have like it's not even that I mean it's expensive. I'm not gonna say it's cheap. Uh I I don't have the price here.
+
+[22:40] I would guess it's like 50 bucks or some crap like that. But for 50 bucks, you have like the world's repository of knowledge on onions. For instance, the chapter six dot four on page 320 is use of onion as an insect repellent by cappuccine monkeys. How ballsy is that? I have this in my house, and you don't.
+
+[22:59] Don't you feel less less good that you don't have a book that you can flip open and learn about the use of onion as an insect repellent by cappureon monkeys? Anyway, um, so get this book and it describes in detail uh what's going on in onions and garlic and leeks uh and so forth when they are being cut, when they are sitting around, when they are being cooked uh at different rates, and describes all the different reactions that are taking place and therefore gives you an insight in into what's going on. The one unfortunate thing that they don't cover in here is, and I'm maybe I'll I don't know this guy, uh Eric Block, but maybe I'll call him because they don't go into what happens specifically with pressure cooking, which is one of the reasons I bought the book, because I'm very interested in pressure cooking alliums, uh, garlic and onion and things like that. Uh it's one of our main uh it's one of our main things that we do is pressure cook things like garlic and onions. Anyway, uh so buy that book.
+
+[23:56] But here's the thing uh the flavor of onions is changed by heat uh and the and the and the arresting of further um production of flavor in the onions is arrested by heat well before the onions themselves start to soften because you're breaking down the tissue, okay? So there's there's the the flavor development uh and the flavor changing that the heat i i is providing. Um that is going on at the same time that you're heating, and then once you get above 85 C for an extended period of time where you break down uh the the pectins uh and the hemicellulose and actually soften the onion. So if you're making a sauce and your goal is to uh basically uh, you know, provide a certain type of onion flavor that happens relatively quickly in cooking, then it's not necessarily not necessary to get them all the way soft as long as you get them up to a heat where you've deactivated the enzymes and you've kind of I guess stabilized the flavor somewhat, then the cooking in the sauce will take you the rest of the way in terms of making the onions soft, right? Assuming you cook it long enough.
+
+[24:53] It actually takes a long time uh in a thick tomato sauce to have onions go soft because the water's not as available as it would be uh if you were cooking it in water, or and and that's also frankly another thing you could do. If you're not getting high heat flavors, you could just put the onions in with wine or whatever, flash them off so that they're almost boiled, and that'll get what you want if you're not providing any any color. Okay. But uh if and if you want that deep caramelized uh flavor where you're actually altering the onion uh the uh the sugars in the onions are uh you then you need to cook at a lower heat so that it doesn't scorch because the when you scorch the sugars, the flavor turns different, and most of us say worse, unless you're burning the onion to make that so the to darken up like a stock. Most of us don't want that acrid burnt flavor, so then you need a lower heat for uh a longer period of time to get those kind of uh caramelized notes.
+
+[25:45] And you can do anything in between, but you're obtaining different flavors. So uh everything depends. Uh as for the other uh ingredients, so so you then uh after that he he says um he says uh uh admittedly I always cook onions in bulk, so I acknowledge that the volume of onions I cook will increase the time for any kind of sauteing, but he thinks his point stands. That's true. Uh especially if you cook in bulk, you're gonna basically be steaming the onions, breaking down the tissue, and then only after they've been steamed and broken down are you really going to get those kind of flavors and and but you know, honestly, it's difficult to do a good onion.
+
+[26:20] If you're gonna make like an uh an onion uh tart, let's say, it's very difficult to do it in under under half hour, I'd say, wouldn't you say, Nastasha? Something like that. Um I guess he has he has the same question for mirapoi, which would be like, you know, the classic like uh onions or onions or leeks, carrots, and celery. So frito, which I assume he means the Spanish version, which would be uh um garlic, onions and and uh tomatoes, or the the holy trinity of creole cooking, which I guess is onions, bell peppers, and celery. I think it depends, like celery, I don't think you're getting that much out of celery in the saute, except for um you're densifying it by sauteing it and have the structure break down before it's been in a liquid, right?
+
+[26:59] Um same thing goes, I mean, bell peppers, I don't think you're getting that much out of, except for you you're getting some brown flavors off of the off of the uh m the meat of it, but I don't think you're winning that much. Carrots have a lot of sugar in them, so you could be getting some caramelizing effect out of the carrots, and uh depending on how you treat them. But I don't cook a miracle long enough to get those kind of flavors in my carrots, so I don't really think that's gonna that's gonna happen. Um he then says more generally, which of the veggies really ought to be sauteed before adding to a sauce. For example, mushrooms, uh they're better sauteed for the texture, but will they retain the intensified flavor after they've been in tomato sauce a long time?
+
+[27:32] I'd say yes, especially on something like a uh uh uh a mushroom. If you're cooking it in a sauce, I think the liquid's gonna diffuse into the mushroom because a mushroom is basically a porous sponge. So if you cook the mushroom by itself and then let it shrink down, then it becomes a denser item that's not gonna absorb as much liquid. And so I think you'll get a fundamentally different, denser, more intense result if you saute your mushrooms beforehand. Uh anyway, um, and then as regards garlic, uh, I think it's a good idea to add your garlic uh much later uh when you're sauteing onions because uh garlic does have a tendency to scorch very readily and turn extremely acrid.
+
+[28:08] The flip side of that is if you're cooking garlic in water in a pressure cooker, in which case it doesn't matter when you add it because you're you're pressure cooking the whole whole dang thing. Uh all right, let's go to one more break. Call in all of your questions if you have any questions, you people out there to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues. Umbrando.
+
+[29:54] The following is a public service announcement from Heritage Radio Network. Really? Tune into Greenhorn Radio, hosted by Severin von Scharner Fleming every Thursday at 2 p.m. Greenhorn Radio is radio for young farmers by young farmers. Helmed by acclaimed activist, farmer, and documentarian Severin Fleming, Greenhorn Radio is a weekly phone interview session surveying America's cutting edge under 40 farmers.
+
+[30:18] Again, that's every Thursday at 2 p.m. on the Heritage Radio Network. That is a weird Bowie song you chose. I feel like Marlon Brando when I look at my little China girl. What a weird song.
+
+[30:33] You know which one I forgot that we should have played. Was it? Was the Abracadabra? That's next week. Oh, yeah.
+
+[30:37] Uh okay, so in case so next week for one of our break music, we're going to play uh Steve Miller's Abricadabra. Yeah. Steve Miller's song Yeah, unless someone out there in internet land can come up with a worse Steve Miller song to play a more horrid, abysmal, like depth of hell. Give him the story, Dave, of how they asked him to create a song. Well, well, so our theory our theory is, but our theory is that you know they needed to come out with it with a new album to go on tour so that they can go on tour and play all of their older really good songs.
+
+[31:12] And they come into the exec and like he's like, hey, it's it's abracadabra, I'm gonna reach out and grab you. That's the song. And they're like, Yeah, that's funny, Steve. Yeah, what's the real song? He's like, no.
+
+[31:21] That's it. Anyway. Uh so next week, unless one of you can come up with a worse Steve Miller song, that's going on the list, right? Yeah, yeah, yeah. No one's gonna come up with a worse song.
+
+[31:31] No. I mean, you could look at any B side. Anything. Yeah. And yet they still play it at every crazy dance.
+
+[31:40] It's on the radio consistently, yeah. Yeah, yeah. Avricadabra. Jack, can you think of a worse Steve Miller song? He's shaking his head and down.
+
+[31:48] Yeah, no. Anyway. Okay. Got a question on vodka sauce. Uh, what do you say about vodka sauce?
+
+[31:53] In your view, is the purpose of vodka purely because the alcohol A releases certain flavor compounds and then B boils off? Or is there some residual alcohol in the sauce that is itself a benefit? Am I correct in that the flavors will be released by wine as well, but unlike vodka, the wine will impart a beneficial flavor of its own even after the alcohol boils off. Okay, well, a couple of things. One, alcohol never truly boils off.
+
+[32:14] I mean, you lose a bunch of it, that's true, but it never truly uh boils off. And in fact, uh, I think it's uh I I it's been a while since I've researched this. Uh and I myself have never done uh side-by-side taste test of the same exact sauce prepared the same exact way, except for in one you add uh a bit of uh water and in one you add uh vodka and then correct them for the same level of uh of final reduction at the end of the sauce, right? Um it's possible to do it and then doing a side-by-side blind tasting. I've never done it.
+
+[32:48] Do you know anyone that's done that? No. I don't either. I mean, it'd be an interesting test. I don't really have the time to run it right now, but it would be a very interesting test to run.
+
+[32:55] I like pasta. If someone else is yeah, Nastasha loves pasta. If anyone in the in the greater New York area wants to run that side-by-side test and invite us, we'll come, right? Yeah. Yeah, we'll come.
+
+[33:05] Uh anyway, uh, but I think that uh you the the the effect of vodka sauce is supposed to be from residual alcohol that's left there that has relatively little flavor in it that will vodka. Uh and so it would be the volatilization of the uh of the aroma compounds in the residual alcohol that I think is providing some of the effect, although the residual alcohol content is still quite low. So even if you don't drink alcohol, I don't really think it's a problem. But it really is true that not all not all alcohol boils off. We we did have to run a test on that a number of years ago because Nils got called for I forget who it was, some TV show uh made him do it, and we had to do a bunch of research on it.
+
+[33:45] But there's still uh quite a bit I I know what we did. We flambed uh alcohol straight and then did alcohol and water tests without a lot of complicating effects like uh sugar and tomato sauce, and then did uh um then did refractometer readings of the result to see what the residual crap was left in it. And in fact, there was residual alcohol content. I don't remember what the numbers were though, do you? No.
+
+[34:08] You were there for that, were they? It was before you were there? Maybe. And speaking of alcohol, we have a question in uh non-alcoholic cocktails from Christian Swanpole. You think I'm pronouncing that right?
+
+[34:20] Mm-hmm. Swanpole? Hmm. Swan pole. Also from New Zealand.
+
+[34:24] This is a new you know what? We need to get our butts on to New Zealand. First of all, do you do you like lamb? You better like lamb. I just Julie's there.
+
+[34:31] I want to go there for that. Yeah, but do you enjoy eating lamb? Alright, so you don't hate lamb. No, I don't hate lamb. Alright, good.
+
+[34:37] Lamb is some delicious stuff. Gotta go to you know, we we in New here in New York we get a whole bunch of New Zealand lamb, but I wonder whether they keep the best product for themselves. What do you think? I think so. You think so?
+
+[34:47] Yeah, wouldn't you? Well, but the thing is, like, I'll eat lamb when I'm there, of course, but I'm gonna I'm gonna basically like eat New Zealand uh grapefruits till I plots. I'm just gonna eat Purman oranges until my body explodes. You know, you can't eat grapefruit when you're on Xanax. That was another thing.
+
+[35:03] I did. Uh there's a so the in grapefruit there is uh and and the perceived uh the the literature says that the the stuff that's in grapefruit that means that you can't have it when you're on any form of statin or anything like that. There's a bunch of drugs that it interacts with, is uh a chemical called bergamotin. This is what I've been led to believe. Uh and uh so I talked uh for with uh Ken Kirshenbaum at NYU a number of years ago seeing whether we could maybe get rid of the bergamotin.
+
+[35:30] I think since then someone has uh postulated a way to do it. I I think I saw some patent literature recently on someone basically getting the bergamotin out of uh grapefruit juice. But my question, and no one's as far as I can tell, do the research on it, is bergamotin is one of the and hey, think about the name bergamotin, bergamot, right? And bergamot is the classic flavoring in uh earl gray tea. And so my qu and my question is is earl gray tea not okay to have.
+
+[36:01] Are there significant levels of bergamotin in earl gray tea such that you shouldn't have it when you're uh on statins or other medications that are affected by it? Now, the the truth of the matter is is that um what happens is is when you when you take grapefruit when you're on these medications, it changes the uh your response to dose, right? So I think some medications it can uh increase the response, and some medications it can decrease the response. But theoretically, if you have the same amount in your system all the time, they can correct for the fact that you uh are are are ingesting grapefruit, but grapefruit isn't something that you typically ingest at at a constant rate every day. So maybe like earl gray tea drinkers, maybe they drink it at a constant enough rate that it's not a problem.
+
+[36:47] Maybe it's not a problem at all. I'd love if anyone out there has any information on bergamotin levels and statins and bergamotin levels in earl gray tea, because it's something I've never seen discussed. No doctors ever tell you, they tell you, hey, stay away from the grapefruit, but they never say, Hey, stay away from the old gray tea. And a lot of people like Earl Gray tea, right? Do you like Earl Grey tea?
+
+[36:59] Mm-hmm. I like Roll Grey Tea. I don't drink it, but I like it. Anyway, how the hell would we get on that? Oh, New Zealand.
+
+[37:12] Yeah. Man, we man, we go on tangents, right? Yes. You know, I got some serious issues. Like uh, like yesterday I was I was at this talk for the uh for the experimental cuisine collective and um someone asked a question in the audience because uh Maxime uh Maxime Billet from the um from the uh exp the modernist cuisine book, you know, along with Chris Young and Nathan Mirval, he was uh there along with Grant, and they were giving uh uh they were basically talking about the book and actually giving us some food, some really delicious food from the book they served out.
+
+[37:44] Yeah, they served out the the rare beef jus, which is one of the famous dishes in the book now, or becoming famous dishes in the book, where they make a uh they make a beef jus um at a very low temperature, like 52 Celsius, which is as low as you can go and be bacterially safe, basically. Or 53, I forget, somewhere in there, in that range. And uh, and they serve it red. And I had it at at um you know at the kitchen lab uh when right before the book was released when I flew out to Seattle. But um I had it this time cold.
+
+[38:13] They served it cold for the summertime, and I think it was actually even better cold, and it's this bright red color. Uh anyway, and they served you know some other stuff, very interesting stuff, great, you know, great stuff. And um someone asked a question, so you know, is there anything else to know? Or is have we figured everything out? And I was like, What?
+
+[38:31] That's weird. That's really weird, right? I was like, you know, I was like, we haven't even asked all the right questions yet. And I was thinking back to uh Roy Fong, the tea guy that we met from the Imperial Tea Garden in uh in um San Francisco, and you know, I was like, you know, look, you know, you could spend your whole life studying, you know, like a single type of tea and uh and not not really not really know everything. Uh anyway, again, and so but then I was like, then I when I when I when I said that, as soon as I said that, I didn't add this.
+
+[39:00] I was like, but me personally, I'm way too scattered to spend my life like which is why, like, you know, in a way, like I I love all this like kind of generalist work that we do, because like I don't I I'm too scattered and I go off on too many tangents to study uh just one thing forever. What do you think? Yeah, no, that's true. I actually was talking about that late last night with someone, yeah. Yeah, and how you can't, yeah.
+
+[39:23] Even though you weren't at the d discussion hearing me say that because you were high on Xanax? Well, I was just talking. Yeah. To yourself. Was there someone there?
+
+[39:30] Or were you hallucinating them? Yeah, it was a hallucination. Okay. So uh Christian asks, uh, I'd like to start by saying he loves the show. Thank you.
+
+[39:37] Uh keep up the good work. We will we will try to. Uh I heard last week that you were doing a non-alcoholic drinks for a party. I have to do the same thing for a party of my own. Unfortunately, I don't have awesome things like rotovaps, but was wondering if you have any pointers or ideas.
+
+[39:49] I don't really have any experience with any form of cocktail, alcoholic or non-alcoholic, and he knows that I'm somewhat of an expert in this uh respect. Well, uh, we hope. We hope anyway, right? Uh so he thought he might have something interesting for him. Thanks for your time.
+
+[40:01] Christian Swanpole from New Zealand. Okay, so uh here's the thing. Here's my feelings on non-alcoholic cocktails. If you serve something uh non-alcoholic, I would go for something that is carbonated because uh it's just more festive. If you serve uh uh something that's not carbonated, it just seems to me to be more like juice.
+
+[40:22] What do you think, Nastasha? I mean, do you think about a bloody Mary? Virgin Mary. A Virgin Mary? No, Virgin Mary is a good cocktail.
+
+[40:29] Uh yeah, yes, a Virgin Mary is good. So, I mean, a traditional Virgin Mary, but depends on what time of day. I mean, you don't want that in the evening. No, right. I'll tell you what we did.
+
+[40:38] We took uh coriander seed, we lightly ground coriander seed, then we cooked it in um in sh in simple syrup, so one-to-one sugar and water. Uh then we let it cool. We kept on tasting it while it was going. If you cook coriander seed too long, it becomes too much like uh a heavy spice note and you lose some of the citrusy notes. We used untoasted coriander seed.
+
+[41:02] Uh then keep ta we used quite a bit actually. Keep tasting it, and then when when you feel it's where you want, strain it out. Okay. Then take something with uh a lot of spice in it that has a lot of heat but not very vegetable. We used the Thai Thai chilies, they're very hot, so we didn't have that much.
+
+[41:18] Make a separate simple syrup with the Thai chilies, right? Then uh take your coriander syrup, put a pinch of salt in it, then um then add the Thai chili, because the coriander syrup is very nice, but it lacks something in the back end in the middle of the palate. You want to add a little bit of that Thai chili syrup to it, not enough to make it spicy, just enough to uh to fill up the back of your throat a little bit like a like a ginger ale. Uh and and then you want to add uh malic acid and citric acid if you don't have that stuff. Two part citric to one part mallock, if you don't, and that's gonna add some limey flavor to it.
+
+[41:51] If you don't have that, you could just bite the bullet and use real limes. But the problem is with real limes, unless you follow our clarification directions on the blog, www.cooking issues.com, uh, you're gonna have issues with foaming uh that are gonna cause problems, uh, even if you strain it. And that's a really good syrup to have at a party, and you can just pour seltzer water on top of that, and it's delicious, right? You like that one, right? Um, or you could clarify any number of juices and make nice light cocktails uh with clarified juices.
+
+[42:19] But I I just I tend to think that that if you really want people to think you're doing something for them that's non-alcoholic, get some sort of a carbonation rig. And carbonation rigs are fairly cheap uh nowadays. Um I don't think we ever posted on getting one, but they're fairly easy to get. And carbonation in general, you can do in an ISI rig or something like that. So the the ones we did, we did a coriander soda, like the one I told you that we then did we made clarified raspberry juice and clarified strawberry juice.
+
+[42:44] Which you know, we used a centrifuge, but you don't need it. You can use uh a lot of different techniques. Hell, you can even buy the juice and then uh carbonate it. Um just remember when you're working with cocktails that you're gonna want to balance uh uh w when you're tasting them, especially because there's no alcohol there, they they're gonna tend to lack something in the kind of the mid palate and in the back of your throat. So you're gonna want to add uh l like spice is very good to add, like in the form of that Thai chili syrup that I'm talking about, just to round it out, not allowed to make it spicy.
+
+[43:15] Don't forget to add a pinch of salt, which is gonna round out all the flavors, especially fruit flavors, not enough to make it salty, but just a little bit, and it's gonna be uh uh you know uh balancing kind of fruity acid and aromatics, I think is where you're gonna want to go to. So we is that good advice or not? That's good, yeah. Yeah. And then and then, of course, if it's sometime in the morning, virgin marries are great.
+
+[43:34] There's tomato juice and you know, uh like whatever forms of spicy stuff that you want in it. If you want to make tomato water, that's a little more intensive, and I recommend buying a centrifuge. Just kidding. Anyway, uh this has been Cooking Issues. Come back and see us next week, every Tuesday, Cooking Issues.
+
+[43:57] Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening.
+
+[44:29] This is Katie Kiefer with behind the scenes food news for the week of May 11th. One of the most exciting things that I found in my trolling of trade blogs this week was uh the announcement of a new initiative called Ag RE. That's Capital A G, small R E E. So it's sort of agriculture and green, I suppose is the uh the idea behind that. And the co-chairs include Dan Glickman, who is a former Secretary of the USDA under Clinton, Gary Hirschberg, who is the president and CEO of Stonyfield Farm, Jim Mosley, who is a former Deputy Secretary at the USDA under George Bush, and Emmy Simmons, a former assistant administrator for economic growth, agriculture, and trade at the U.S.
+
+[45:12] Agency for International Development. So this is kind of a mixed bag of political viewpoints here, which is what made me really uh sit up and take notice. It's funded by all the usual suspects like the Gates Foundation, the Ford Foundation, etc. But um leading off in their uh first meeting, Glickman stressed the importance of involving all stakeholders and seeking common ground in addressing the need to feed a growing global population and doing so in ways that are environmentally, economically, and socially sustainable. And the eight foundations that are backing Ag Agri, he notes, agreed to set aside their political differences, as did the individual co-chairs to develop research based long-term solutions and strategies.
+
+[45:57] I think this is a gigantic step in the right direction. I'm hoping that these guys will have a huge impact on the farm bill, which will be uh coming up again in 2012. Um, so let's uh keep an eye on Agri. If you want to read more about them and what they're doing and their news. They do have a website.
+
+[46:12] It's www.food and agpolicy.org. This has been Katie Kiefer with behind the scene food news. The following is a message from Heritage Foods USA. In the next few weeks, Heritage Foods USA will be offering an interesting variety of amazing products, ranging from top quality seafood to their famous pork cuts. At the end of May, the Heritage team will go up to Maine to harvest fresh lobster with sustainable lobster meat.
+
+[46:43] These delicious lobster are a perfect way to kick off the summer season. In the pork compartment, Heritage Foods USA will offer the maple cured smoked boneless heritage ham at an unbeatable price. This offer won't last long, so get them while you can. Place your order today at HeritageFoods USA.com or call 718-389-0985. That's 718-389-0985 to place your order with Andrea or Ashley.
+
+[47:10] Don't forget to sign up for the email list and to check them on Facebook and Twitter to get in on their new products, deals, and offers from Heritage Foods USA.
\ No newline at end of file
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+[0:09] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. I am Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network, coming to you approximately from 12 to 1245 every Tuesday here in the studio today with Nustacha the Hammer Lopez Cooking Issues as always. She is the hammer. How are you doing, Nastasha? I'm fine.
+
+[0:23] How are you? Haven't seen you. How was your uh holiday weekend? It was good. Yeah?
+
+[0:27] Uh-huh. I went to Fire Island. Oh nice, how was that? Fine. Did you get poison ivy?
+
+[0:31] Nope. No, you Fire Island is a uh they should like well, I'm not gonna say it's uh obviously they should not light any fires there, but they should get rid of that some of that poison ivy. The worst case poison ivy I think I've ever had I had in Fire Island. In fact, the doctor said it was the worst case of poison ivy that he had seen in in at least five or six years of practice. My entire arm swelled up.
+
+[0:49] I looked like uh the in the incre if the incredible hulk was bright red instead of green, it looked like I had one giant hulk arm that but it was instead of like muscle, it was a giant sack of water. It's gross. Well, because they had these blueberries, you see, they're growing uh all on Fire Island. I picked all these delicious blueberries and luckily was able to make possibly the most delicious blueberry pie I've ever made uh before my arm swelled up into a giant balloon. So I I guess it was worth it.
+
+[1:15] I don't know. Did everybody enjoy it? Oh, they loved it. Then there you go. That was that was a long time ago.
+
+[1:20] That was in uh 2001. Long time ago. That's the last time I was at Fire Island. They still have uh deer whose fur being eaten off by mange like this. There was one that was following me.
+
+[1:31] It was really freaked out. Yeah, but was it all gross looking? I didn't I walked the other way. I didn't look at it. It was at night.
+
+[1:37] Um yeah. Well, look during the day, they're mangy and disgusting. Vermin. Anyway. Uh calling all of your cooking-related questions to 718-497-2128.
+
+[1:46] That's 718-497-2128 coming to you live from Bushwick today. So, uh, today is here's some like like an airplane in the background. Yeah, it's weird. Yeah. Today is the last of my week long my days of weeklong raw vegan diet.
+
+[2:04] I have been on a raw vegan diet since Tuesday of last week. Uh Tuesday right after we finished the low temperature sous vide class. So we put ourselves into a meat coma in the low temp sous vide class eating like a bazillion short ribs. And then right after I went on uh raw vegan, and uh, you know, because for those of you that haven't heard, I made a bet on this radio show that no one could produce a raw vegan chocolate bar that I would uh even think tasted remotely of chocolate. Um, because frankly, I figured it's impossible because you have to roast chocolate, you see.
+
+[2:39] So chocolate beans, right? First of all, the the you know, the the the you know, the the cacao, right? It comes down, it's ferments, so often right there in the fermentation process, it gets above the arbitrary number of 118 or whatever you're gonna choose for something the Fahrenheit for something to be raw. Now, it's kind of odd that you could possibly uh uh overcome what makes it raw during a fermentation process, since the raw thing is supposed to keep the enzymes alive, and it's actually life, but you know, bacteria and fermentation taking place that is causing this temperature rise. But we'll we'll leave that aside.
+
+[3:11] So often the temperature will go above one eighteen right there, but that can be controlled. But then there's a step of roasting of chocolate where it's roasted, and that's where a lot of the characteristic flavors are developed. So I'm like, well, you can't do that, so hey, what the heck? You can't have real raw chocolate. It's not gonna taste like chocolate because crap ain't been roasted.
+
+[3:28] So our former intern, Grace, brings me this stuff fine and raw chocolate, and I tasted it, and I had to agree that although it was not uh, you know, anywhere near my favorite chocolate, or you know, even a chocolate that I would choose to eat on a normal basis, its texture was wrong, etc. etc. It was a little soft. You remember the chocolate, right? It still tasted like chocolate though.
+
+[3:47] Yeah. You could eat it. It wasn't good. I mean, I could eat it though. In other words, like I've I felt like I lost a bet.
+
+[3:53] So then the problem was now I can't welch, like it's impossible for me to welch. It's like you know, not an acceptable situation. So I had to do it. The problem was finding a one-week period where I wasn't obliged to do a demonstration where I had to cook. And so this last week, right after that, uh right after the sous-vide class was the only week we had where that was possible.
+
+[4:12] So I've been raw vegan uh for a week, and I break my raw vegan fast uh tonight when I land in Austin, Texas, and I think I'm gonna eat an entire cow when I get there. You know, actually, it's not the meat that I miss the most, it's it's uh like bread and like starch. I mean, think about that no rice, no bread, no starch. Um, anyway, so I'll I'll share before we get into the questions, maybe I'll share a little bit of the, although I am gonna post on it hopefully today or tomorrow, I'm gonna share a little bit of the raw vegan uh thing. So the the whole reason that you're supposed to eat raw vegan, you know, if you believe in this sort of thing, is that uh not cooking things makes uh has make keeps the enzymes alive.
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+[4:53] The food's alive and therefore fruit foods alive, therefore it's more healthy for you. The vegan argument is an argument against animal proteins and uh either for moral reasons and also for health reasons. So it's a combination of like moral and health health reasons. Now, here's here's the thing. I don't believe it.
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+[5:09] I just don't believe it. Like, first of all, you make your own enzymes. You make your own enzymes. We make our own enzymes. Do you know what I'm saying?
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+[5:15] Like you produce your own enzymes. I don't see where consuming something whose enzymes are preserved is necessarily going to be uh that much more beneficial in general, right? Now, even assuming that you need to consume all sorts of raw enzymes, even if enzymes are good for you, even if they are necessary, right? There's nothing to say that every scrap of food that you consume has to be teeming with these enzymes, right? Also, there's plenty of things that aren't heated that don't have enzymes in them.
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+[5:41] You know what I mean? Like it has to have enzymes. It has to be like, you know, a living thing. So, like, why you're why your your salt needs to be particularly raw, which they care about. You know what I mean?
+
+[5:50] It's like I don't understand. And why every last damn thing, because it it's been shifted from the enzymes are good to cook foods are toxic. Like that's where the shift is taking place. Another thing that I don't believe. So let me just say this before I even get started.
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+[6:02] Um, there are some people who who think by the way, eating raw vegan, I know I'm not supposed to make it seem post-apocalyptic, but it is a a hardship. It is a huge hardship for someone who doesn't normally do it. You know what I mean? Especially if you have two incredibly picky kids. Now, I wasn't able to cook or prepare raw vegan for the kids because they weren't having it.
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+[6:21] They had like one or two nights of raw vegan. I did I Jen, my wife, sometimes went into the raw vegan with me, but I, you know, yesterday I made her hamburgers while I ate raw vegan. Uh I ended up actually like the like you know, okay, well, I'll get into it. One, they they say that you get this uh that you get more energy when you're eating raw vegan. I felt I am what we call a very energetic non-athletic guy, right?
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+[6:43] I have a lot of energy, but I'm not athletic. Uh and I felt like I got hit over the head with a hammer with this diet because I lost all I lost all of my energy. I was passing out tired at night. I was kind of grumpy during the day. Now I I talked to someone, they're like, well, you need to eat it for a couple of weeks to get the effect.
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+[7:02] Well, if I need to eat it for a couple of weeks, are you sure you're not just going into some sort of starvation euphoria and thinking you have more energy? Right? I mean, it is true, you do lose weight on this diet, right? I did lose some weight on this diet, uh, but you know, and and and for that, it's probably effective. If your only goal is to lose weight, your choices are so constricted, and your body's ability to process what's going on, more on that later.
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+[7:23] Like your body's ability to process what's going on is sufficiently reduced that you will, I mean, at least in the one week period, who knows if you maintain it for a long time, lose a lot of weight. I also feel like I've lost a lot of muscle mass. I don't know that I have uh less energy whether it's just because I have less energy, but I feel significantly weaker than I did uh like physically weaker than I did a week ago. So, you know, I I consumed what I consider to be a fairly healthy all-around diet based on the diet the dietetic principle of eat everything in moderation. Uh I prepare most of my own food or eat good food, so uh, and I you know I think a hamburger is healthy, right?
+
+[7:58] And that's my feeling. So this is not a diet that uh I would say that you should go on for I don't believe it's healthier, that's what I'm saying, than than the my diet that I normally have. It's not just that it's a hardship, I don't believe it's healthier. Even if it were easy to do, I would not do it by choice, right? So that that's that's said.
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+[8:18] Um you are going to get in a very good relationship with your toilet if you follow this diet. Let me just tell you, this stuff flies through you on this diet. You can't, like, there's no getting around it. You know what I mean? It's it's uh it's it's crazy.
+
+[8:32] And and and it's also extremely expensive. Now, it doesn't matter, like this is not an argument against it, but it doesn't seem to me to be like a diet, this is not an argument against it, but it's not an argument for uh a diet for the people. Everything costs eight bucks. Like everything. Like a little thing of of dip, eight bucks.
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+[8:49] A little thing of crackers, eight bucks. Anything that's raw vegan, go to the store, look at it. Look at what it costs, eight bucks. You know what I mean? Like maybe you can get like a little tiny bar or snack of something that's less, but unless you are just straight up consuming raw fruits and vegetables.
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+[9:04] And by the way, if you eat nothing but raw fruits in the morning, you crash. You get a sugar high and you crash like a mother. You know what I mean? It's just like you're and and you know I'm probably a little rambling today because I'm still in the raw in the raw vegan mode. I had uh one good meal at pure food and wine, Sarumelong Gaias's restaurant.
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+[9:20] I called her 'cause I was like, I can't deal with this anymore. I have to have someone else do this for me. I went in. But their meals are extremely, extremely labor intensive. You know, I had had these high hopes that I was going to be able to make a lot of really interesting stuff raw vegan and my time just ran out and I had to do it anyway.
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+[9:34] So my rotary evaporator is packed up so I couldn't do any low temperature uh you know brandies that you know are raw vegan even though they're they're delicious. I've had them before I know they're good. I didn't get to make the you know the raw vegan black Sapote ice cream that I wanted to get. But but all of these things are very very um they're they're esoteric. You know what I mean it'll be hard to do this in the real life.
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+[9:55] What you end up actually eating is a boatload of pineapple, like blueberries, dried fruits, and then avocado tomato, sauerkraut salads for dinner. I mean and and and you know uh I feel I f the whole week I've been feeling like um I don't know like I'm like I'm just kind of trudging along waiting for it to be over. Like you know I'm not I'm not myself. So I've I I'm glad I did it. I have the exp experience of it.
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+[10:20] It's not for me. I don't necessarily think uh that I I'd recommend it to anyone. I think it's incredibly expensive unless you are very have a lot of time to plan uh to do it. So that has been my raw food experience. What do you think, Nastasha?
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+[10:33] I think that's too bad, Dave. Well, have I been incredibly mean. I only dealt one day with you. This is the second day. Was that was I mean?
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+[10:40] Yeah, you were you were an asshole. Uh you're not allowed to say that on the air. That's, you know, this is a family program. Yeah. You know, you know, Nastachi says one thing and comes out and it's and it's a curse word.
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+[10:52] Anyway, well, only go to our first commercial break and we'll come back. Uh, calling your questions to 718 497 2128. That's 718 497 2128 cooking issues. I heat up, I can't cool down. Round and round and round it goes.
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+[11:27] Where it stops, nobody knows. Every time you call my name. I heat up like a burning flame. Burn in flame, full of desire. Custom, baby, let the fire get higher.
+
+[11:47] Heritage Radio Network is about to celebrate the hundredth episode of the main course with Patrick Martins and Katie Kiefer. The main course has welcomed talent that ranges from Temple Grandin on animal handling to Eric Asimov, the New York Times wine critic. Chefs and farmers, distributors, and restaurateurs. Everyone who is involved in the food industry gets to put their two cents in on how and why we eat what we eat. Check out the archives for more information on Fascinating.
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+[12:12] Check out the archives for more information on the fascinating roster of guests that have graced the table for the main course. And be sure to tune in to the hundredth episode, Sunday, June 6th at noon on the Heritage Radio Network. Hello and welcome back to Cooking Issues. Dave Arnold calling all of your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128.
+
+[12:33] So Nastasha, we have a column coming out in Eater blog tomorrow, supposedly. And uh and that uh that's gonna basically be the same as the as the radio show, just in uh blog format, separate from the cooking issues blog, which you know we I hope to get my my raw vegan post up soon, along with all the other 15 posts that I have in backlog that I haven't written. But I'm now uh on with eater. We're gonna do I think a weekly where we answer questions. So some of these questions that uh that I've gotten by email, I might if I don't have time on the radio show, I might defer and answer them on the eater blog.
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+[13:07] And you of course you can put your questions to the eater blog now instead of having to email Nastasha and we'll get emailed to me. Some of them will get answered on the air, and some of them will get answered on the eater blog. What do you think, Nastasha? Yeah. So we're thinking of calling it uh what we're gonna what are you calling it?
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+[13:21] Issues cooking with Dave. Issues issues cooking with Dave. Yes. Nice. Yeah, nice.
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+[13:27] You like that? Issues cooking with Dave? Yeah. Yeah, great. Okay.
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+[13:31] Uh Marty Yu uh wrote in. He says uh he doesn't deep fry that often. I'm sorry, Marty, you should deep fry more often. Uh I don't deep fry that often. I'm looking for ways to preserve my fry oil.
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+[13:40] Online, I saw some articles about rosemary extract being an effective antioxidant, especially a product called Inolens 4. Do I have any experience with this product? I couldn't find a way to obtain any. And do you know if it's available uh to consumers through uh any sort of hippie dippy uh health food uh store? No.
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+[13:56] Uh I I hadn't heard of that, in fact. Uh, but I did look it up and Rosemary, you know, it's basically uh that's the kind of trade name, and I don't know where you can I don't know where you can get it, but the actual thing that you it's in rosemary that's being used as an antioxidant is uh I'm gonna pronounce it incorrectly here, is uh carnosic acid, right? So carno carnosic acid is derived from uh rosemary, there's a large amount in it. I assume it's in any kind of rosemary oil or extract that you can purchase um on you know in Whole Foods or any one of those other stores. But the problem is is that the one that they use as an antioxidant in oil, and apparently it is a fairly uh effective anti uh antioxidant to prevent rancidity, um the problem with it is is that they deodorize it, completely deodorize it, so it no longer smells like rosemary when they when they add it.
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+[14:42] Uh so you if you add it, and and they're adding it in fairly small amounts. I don't know what percentage of rosemary extract that you buy in a store is gonna is gonna have uh, you know, is gonna be the you know the the actual antioxidant, but um i you know it's in the parts per million kind of range. The the question that I wasn't able to answer, it it definitely stops um rancidity development and storage, right? Uh, you know, the breakdown of the uh of the you know in into free fatty acids on storage. But I I haven't been able to find that much information yet on the frying temperatures, whether or not it basically withstands frying temperatures and will actually help you at those temperatures, prevent oxidation, breakdown uh, you know, of the of the lipids, those kind of temperatures.
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+[15:22] But it's very interesting. So it might be fun to drop, and there's it's also by the way, in sage, not just in rosemary, and there's uh lots of antioxidants in sage and rosemary, but it might be interesting to to go to Whole Foods, buy some of this rosemary oil, put a couple drops in, and then do a side-by-side uh kind of temperature abuse. It would be a little hard to it'd be a little hard to do it completely accurately because you'd have to ramp, you'd have to ramp the temperatures up and down the same in two baths of oil, which would be difficult unless you had it in like a third bath of oil and ramping it up and down, so it'd be a difficult experiment to kind of do unless you were unless you had a professional lab. But it's it seems uh it seems interesting. Uh so if it was going to work, I would say that just rosemary oil should do the trick, but again, no experience with it, but it sounds interesting, yeah?
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+[16:07] Yeah. Yeah, rosemary oil. Rosemary oil. Uh maybe Chesray can do that. Maybe a Chesaree Casel, you know, our friend the chef, like basically has rosemary growing out of his pocket for many uses at any time.
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+[16:20] He has rosemary coming out of everything, right? Rosemary out of every orifice. The man is like the man the man sprung from a rosemary, a rosemary bush. Um anyway. Okay.
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+[16:30] Uh Mike Anonymous, which I like that name. Mike Anonymous writes in he has two questions. One, uh, one's on meat and the other's on popcorn. So meat. Uh I'm trying to buy all my meat from local uh farmers, and that usually means that it's frozen.
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+[16:43] Unfortunately, that is true because they don't sell it as fast, they don't have the pipeline out, so they s they'll slaughter it, maybe hang it, hopefully, then freeze it and have it for sale. That's just that's just the way it works, because they just don't have product all the time and they can't you know get it out of the pipeline that fast. Uh my general question is is the rule about not refreezing meat an issue of safety or quality, or both. More specifically, my question is can meat be refrozen after defrosting and manipulating? Two specific examples he's thinking of.
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+[17:09] Can he defrost a pork shoulder, make a sausage, Italian for example, and then refreeze it uh in a suitable size? And the same question goes for dumpling fillings and other ground pork products. Can you defrost a rack of ribs? Uh thinking of uh McGee's oven method for barbecue ribs and refreeze them after cooking. Good shout out to McGee and refreeze them after cooking.
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+[17:25] He would like to cook several racks and stash them away for a future meal. Okay. It is not a safety issue, Mike. It is a quality issue. Every time you freeze meat, um, the meat is dehydrating uh as it as it freezes.
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+[17:38] Water is leaving the cells, especially the way you freeze in a normal home freezer. Water is leaving the cells, and then the also the ice crystals that are formed can puncture those cells. So that when it rehydrate, when it thaws out, it essentially has to rehydrate. And if it doesn't rehydrate uh 100%, or if the cells are damaged too much, you get a huge what's called drip loss. You get a lot of liquid dripping out of out of the meat.
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+[17:58] So you're gonna see like the sack with a lot of liquid liquid dripping out of it. And the more times you repeat the cycle of freezing and thawing, the more you break down the tissue and the more liquid you're gonna lose. And in fact, that is a technique that you know you people use to break apart cells, is freeze-thought, freeze thaw, freeze-thaw, freeze thaw. Now, assuming that when the meat thaws, it doesn't drip like a lunatic and it was frozen well the first time, right? By the way, but but back on safety for a second.
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+[18:25] Freezing is not a it arrests bacterial growth, but it does not kill the bacteria, right? So as long as you have the product safe the whole time and then you cook it, refreezing it is not is not an issue. Even if you thaw it completely and then refreeze it completely, as long as you didn't temperature abuse the product, the product is gonna remain safe. Okay, so the safety concerns are the same safety concerns you would have with with anything else. The freezing itself doesn't alter the safety of it, okay.
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+[18:55] Um now uh if you take a product that's cooked, like really cooked, like a stew or a braise or something like that, the cells are pretty much cooked anyway, and so you could probably freeze it after that procedure and then uh you know, like you know, cook it and then freeze after that procedure without too much of a quality loss, especially if you were gonna freeze it in something like a vac bag or or like a very like closed ziploc where there's no oxygen. You're gonna want to keep the oxygen out because you're not gonna want it to go rancid during the the second freezing, and you're not gonna want a chance for the the uh moisture on the inside to be able to sublimate out or recrystallize on the outside and get freezer burn. But as long as you don't do those two things you might get some quality loss on refreezing. I mean I'm not gonna say that you won't get a qual quality loss but I would say that you would probably get less quality loss on something that was cooked and then uh after cooked portioned and re-frozen. So you know it's it's all a question of whether or not you get a result that that you like.
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+[19:53] I mean I think it's optimal to not have to freeze if you if you don't have to, especially if you you know your home freezer is not very good, but sometimes there's just no choice. You might want to try a very fast freeze by bagging and then putting the bags into a very heavy brine and uh ice solution and that'll drop it like a rock, freeze it really quick. But um and I think McGee also posted some stuff on that online but it's just like you would do for ice cream. Just make sure that the salt can't get to your food and the water can't touch your food. We have a collar?
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+[20:20] Mm-hmm. Alright caller uh I'll get back to your popcorn in a minute Mike Anonymous. Uh caller you're on the air. Hi I'm Marcus from Venice Beach and I just have a question about uh different salumis. You know you have the surpassata, the different type of salum's I always wonder if you could speak a little bit about that.
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+[20:38] You know um I know it's a very broad topic but well what what what in particular do you want to talk about with it? Well you know you have the subversato, you have uh the salame um what are what makes the difference in time and and so on and recipe. Alright well I mean the recipes all right so if we're talking like a Italian products, I mean they're all they're all extremely different, right? So the ba the fundamentally, let's say we're just gonna deal with pork products, right? So when you're starting with pork products, like the first thing you're gonna choose is kind of what assuming you all have the same quality of pork is going to be your fat lean ratio, right?
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+[21:15] And then how finely the parts are gonna be cut up, right? So you can go all the way to like an emulsified product like with a mortadella or something like that, where it's basically emulsified fats and and and meat, you know, and and uh muscle or like very coarse like most of the super side uh we call it hey in New York we call it super sut. Anyway, like uh most of the stuff that I get, you know, it's uh it's fairly coarse, right? Down to something like uh you know like a like the hunter sausage at the Cachatori sausages that are a little bit in between. So then you have like uh what the fat lean ratio is and then how how they're they're cut up.
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+[21:49] The next most important thing for the for these kinds of products is the spice and or sometimes wine mixture that's added to them, right? So that's where a lot of the characteristic uh stuff is gonna come into play. The ne the next thing after that is then how much they're needed by hand. So some of the stuff that we think of as uh traditionally like if you go to a deli and say salami right that they they're very or they're very finely bound together and it's because they've been kneaded with salt so they bind together and form a very kind of uh you know compact uh like mass and they're usually fairly finely chopped whereas you'll get some coarser products um that uh and I'm not even talking about whole muscle cuts like uh like you know copas or anything like that so it's like um so the the coarser ones tend to be not and needed as much so they don't pack together as much and then the the next step after that obviously is what size you pack in. So the thinner something that is going to be packed in, the the shorter the drying time, but therefore also, to my opinion, sometimes the less complex the taste, right?
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+[22:54] Then there's so many steps. The next step after that is is well, a lot of times these guys, like in Italy or in a lot of places that aren't commercial, they'll they'll do what's called wild, they'll get a wild fermentation going because the these sausages, aside from usually in the US anyway, adding some uh nitrites to it to kill botulism. The word botulism, by the way, is derived from the Latin for kind of sausage because you can get botulism in these things if they're not uh cured, you know, cured properly. So the nitrates are in there uh to prevent that. But they the so they have salts and nitrites to prevent that, but then also bacteria are growing in there, and the bacteria that grow in there drop the pH and make it acidic.
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+[23:31] That's where the tart tangy nature of uh of these sausages come from. So the temperature of fermentation and what kind of bacteria are in that also make a huge difference on the type of uh product you're gonna get. And so the combination of all of those things together, then along with you know, the the environment, its age, the microflora in the place where it's aged, are what are going to give you all the different kinds of results. Do you know what I'm saying? I mean, and that's a it you know, that's in a nutshell basically what's going on with most of the with most of the the cut up products and their differences.
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+[24:07] That makes you there? I lost him. Anyway, I hope that's what he wanted to talk about. That's making me dang hungry though. I could use some salumi right now.
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+[24:19] Man, I could use some salumi. Oh my goodness. Anyway, did that answer the question? I hope so. What do you think?
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+[24:25] You make sense? I think that was great. Yes? Alright, good. See, Jack, Jack has a good answer.
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+[24:28] Whereas Nastasha sits here, calls me an A-hole. Nastasha calls me an A-hole on the air, and then's like, I don't know, I wasn't listening to what you were saying anyway. Maybe it was an answer. Mike Anonymous calls in, uh, writes in with popcorn question. He goes, What's your go-to method, high or low heat, pan with oil, microwave, or other.
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+[24:44] I make it in a saucepan with oil, heat it over high until a few kernels pop, add the remainder, and turn the heat down a little. I use a splatter screen instead of a cover, as excess steam seems to make it chewy. I make it regularly but have difficulty with uh consistently excellent popcorn. My problems are occasionally chewy, not light and fluffy, uh, corn and varying levels of pop kernels. I buy my corn from a local co-op in small quantities, so as far as I know it is fresh.
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+[25:08] I've read about people who cook it over lower heat, but that doesn't seem right to me, nor does it seem right to me, Mike Anonymous. Now, uh I haven't had any experience with uh buying popcorn from uh Coa, local co-op. Um you might have some issues there because popcorn is pretty tweaked out, like you know, not that I uh uh I have nothing for or against the you know the the good folks at uh you know whatever it is orville Reddenbach or whatever, but certain popcorn varieties uh are are much better poppers and and the the popcorn that's left over, they're called uh I believe they're called widows. The ones that don't pop, the little little kernels at the bottom that don't pop, I believe they're called widows. I used to know that.
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+[25:42] There's two basic kinds of popcorn. There's the butterfly shape that we're used to, and then there's the I forget what it's called, I think mushroom, which is the one that they use for caramel coating because it has a larger surface area and doesn't break apart. But usually we're eating butterfly popcorn. Um it's got a uh, you know, that they're fairly consistent, but they're grown to be popcorn. So there is a huge difference among varieties, and the one you get, maybe you like the taste, but maybe you don't get them all popped.
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+[26:07] I don't know. As for the my favorite technique, like by far and away, my favorite technique is the whirly pop. The whirly pop is basically a lided hinge uh with uh a wheel on it that keeps the thing agitated while while you spin it. They're like 30 bucks and you just oil and whirly pop, turn it on, uh not so high that it's gonna scorch, and you just keep turning until the stuff pops. It's got steam vents in it, so the steam seems to leave.
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+[26:31] I've never had a problem with popcorn being chewy in that. It's also a fantastic first coffee roaster if you want to roast coffee in a whirly pop. Uh do you know what I'm talking about? Does this make sense to you? Sure.
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+[26:42] You know, it's got the wooden handle on it, and it's got like a little gear on the top, and it goes down, it's got a little wire that moves around and keep this keeps the popcorn moving on the bottom. And that's what I use. Uh uh uh uh almost exclusively until my mom decided that what she was going to get me for Christmas was a movie style popcorn machine that is like, you know, it it's meant for homes, but it's big enough to be in a movie theater. It takes up my whole apartment, but the kids fell in love with it, so now that's in my house. And that works on the same principle as a whirly pop, it's just a smaller, uh, it's a smaller container than the than the whirly pop.
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+[27:16] It's basically, and that's the way most of the pro batch things work. They have uh an agitated rod with a loose-fitting flap-up lid with steam vents that allow the steam to leave so that the steam can leave while it's going. Um, you know, the popcorn kernels themselves should be well above the boiling temperature, so once it leaves, the steam's gonna want to leave. Uh spatter screen, you might have some issues with uh oil getting out or problems, I don't know. I mean, it doesn't sound like you do, but the whirly pop, if you make it often, get the freaking whirly pop.
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+[27:44] Just go buy it. You're not gonna regret it. And then you can start roasting coffee as well. What do you think? Yeah, it's good.
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+[27:48] Yeah? Yeah. Okay. Uh we have a question in from Stephen Garrett regarding pressure cookers. Hey, longtime reader of the blog and listener.
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+[27:56] Thank you, Steven. I finally got my hands on a pressure cooker, a Quisenart pressure cooker, electric model, which got christened with a pork shoulder for pulled pork. As I've never used one before, I was wondering if you had any tips, techniques, or recipes to fully utilize the machine. Uh I love the look of your egg bread and was wondering how it is done and is there a liquid in the pot. Regards, Steve from Wellington, New Zealand.
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+[28:14] Okay, Steve. I know a lot of people, Jeffrey Steingart is one who loves his Cuisinart electric pressure cooker. I what I don't know is what the actual pressure on the Cuisinart is, because the one failing of electric pressure cookers is they don't uh necessarily tell you what the pressure level on it is, right? So hopefully the cuisin art runs at 15 pounds per square inch, which is gonna, you know, uh which is what you know all standard uh pressure cookers run at, but not all electric pressure cookers. So if it runs at 15 psi, it's gonna work just like a regular pressure cooker does for anything else.
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+[28:45] The great thing about an electric is you don't have to worry about throttling the gas up and down, and it and you rarely, I think if ever, I've never heard it really scorch, have big scorching problems on the bottom of the bowl because you're not using uh a high high heat. Plus, you know, it doesn't take up a burner, it doesn't heat up the kitchen appreciably, so it's supposedly they're fantastic, although I've never really used um that one. The the interesting thing about the egg bread, we don't add any extra liquid to it. I would add some uh to the recipe, I would add a pinch of sugar or soy, not too much it'll burn. Uh but you actually don't need to make it in a pressure cooker, you can make it in a steamer, we found out later, um, because a chef randomly did it in a in a steamer instead of in a pressure cooker, and it worked just as well.
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+[29:28] Pressure cooker will work, but you can do that thing just in a uh in a steamer. And it uses its own liquid, it's just egg yolks, uh baking powder, uh salt, uh sugar or soy, uh, and just beaten together and then uh not even a lot, just like basically mixed together and then put into rammickens and steamed. You can pressure cook it. Here's what I would do with the pressure cooker. First of all, I hope the Queens Nar, I'm not sure, is non-venting.
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+[29:53] In other words, it doesn't produce steam when it's working, it's basically sealed or produces very little steam. In which case, you can use it to make some fantastic stocks, especially reinforced stocks, and like triple stocks. So if you get bones, you can do a triple stock, i.e., uh, you know, a fresh set of bones to get this incredibly stuck rich stock in like an hour. Secondly, even if it does vent, uh, from you know the guys at Modernist Cuisine, they seal their stock in mason jars. So they can do basically the work of sealed stock in small quantities in jars without having a vented pressure cook uh without having a non-venting pressure cooker.
+
+[30:25] The one I have is Coon Recon, it's expensive and also not electric. So that's very interesting. Also, garlic, pressure cooked garlic. I do it in milk typically, uh, blend it with uh for about twenty I do it about twenty minutes, then blend it with oil, that's a great pizza sauce. You can pressure Nils and I are doing a demonstration in in Texas, I'm flying out to Texas later this afternoon, and uh we're doing ramps, which are you know wild you know, allium things from the US.
+
+[30:50] Uh, we're doing a pressure cooked ramp ice cream, uh you can do onion ice cream, you can pressure cook uh horseradish and then puree it, you can pressure cook um, like I say, onions, any one of those things can be modified, pressure cooked. Did we ever put this stuff on the blog? Pressure cooked uh mustard seeds, you pressure cook them in, you first you blanch them in water, then you pressure cook them in vinegar, and then add sugar afterwards, toss it, and you get these like awesome, like they're almost like mustard seed caviar. The one thing, uh don't add a lot of if you add high sugar, things are gonna get really dark really fast because the sugar is gonna be an even higher temperature, so you might get some scorching. That's why I add the sugar to things like the mustard seeds afterwards so that they inflate properly and they and they don't you know get too brown.
+
+[31:31] Another great one is uh Hamine eggs, which are the eggs that turn brown because of the mired reactions that happen at low temperatures. Just put whole eggs, hard boil them. Uh if you I don't know if you can unseal it and let it boil. If not, like bring water to a boil with the eggs let it let it hard boil normally for like you know six minutes or so then put the hot water and the eggs in the pressure cooker pressure cooker for about an hour and when they're done hopefully they didn't break when they're done you peel them and the whites are are kind of dark nutty brown and have like a toasted kind of aroma when you cut it the yolks have a chicken liver kind of a chicken liver kind of aroma it's pretty cool so these are some good things to do uh and obviously it's really great for fast braises like like pork shoulder the one thing I have to caution you against is don't add a lot of extra liquid because you're not going to evaporate and reduce a lot of extra liquid you should you should put in your wine first and then uh then reduce it down so that it uh you know you get rid of the the kind of alcohol aroma you want to get off of it and then reduce like somewhat or pull the product afterwards and then reduce it reduce the stock but I would definitely start with less liquid than you're than you're used to uh and also you're gonna get a richer meatier taste but the texture is gonna be different because the fibers are gonna be broken apart a little more and it's because it's cooked at a higher heat it's you know overcooked overcooked in a technical sense but usually quite delicious. I actually like braises I did a uh a chili and a pressure cooker that was awesome awesome anyway uh hope that answered your question and uh get back to us and tell us tell us how it worked you want to go to one more commercial break let's go to one more break and come back calling your questions to 7184972128 that's 7184972128 cooking issues yeah some call me the gangster of love some people call me Maurice speak of the Pompatus of love Welcome back to Cooking Issues.
+
+[33:53] So I see Nastasha gave me at least one decent Steve Miller song, along with punishing me not only with a raw vegan diet for a week, but giving me the absolute worst Stephen Miller song. Right. It's unbelievable that Abercadabra was written by the same person or same people that wrote, you know, the Joker, right? I mean, I look I'm never I was never a huge Steve Miller guy growing up, but I gotta respect it. I mean that's it, you know what I mean?
+
+[34:17] Like that's real song. That's real deal. Did he say I'm a gangster of love or something? He is, yeah. I think that was the lyric.
+
+[34:23] Although some people do call him Maurice. You know, known by many names. But the but Abercadaver is gotta be the worst, the worst damn song in the whole world. Uh anyway, thank you for the quadruple punishment, Nastasha. Thank you so much.
+
+[34:40] Uh okay. Uh Brian Garrick uh wrote in with a uh Nick's de mal and alkali question in general. Uh he read the article on next mobilization in the blog, and he loves saying that word as much as we do. It is a great word. Nix damal, nix d'amal.
+
+[34:52] Uh I'm in by the way, if in case you don't know what the heck we're talking about, that's the process of taking uh a a base like calcium hydroxide is is uh classic uh and then cooking uh corn in it and uh it makes a characteristic a kind of uh flavor and texture for uh for masa dough for making tortillas. So you get that awesome. I mean it's just great. The bass basically breaks up the outside of the corn kernel, makes it easier to grind, prehydrates it, um changes the texture of it, the flavor, fantastic. Read the article on nickstamilization because unfortunately I'm not gonna have the time to go through the entire rigmarole here, but uh we love it.
+
+[35:28] Anyway, he's interested in making pretzels and possibly other things with basic solutions. Can you give me the down and dirty on all this stuff? It seems like baking soda is too weak, and you already covered calcium hydroxide with nixtimalization. Lye, which is sodium hydroxide, seems too dangerous per my article, and I agree that it is. I still use it at school, but I won't use it at home because I have kids at home.
+
+[35:47] If I didn't have kids at home and it was properly labeled, I would do it, but I'm not having that in my house with the kids. Uh Lye seems too dangerous as periodical, but what is uh but is what pretzels traditionally require. What about McGee's article about um baking baking baking soda? So you take baking soda and you and you turn it from um sodium bicarbonate into sodium carbonate. Um what about McGee's and go look it up?
+
+[36:09] It's a great article. What about McGee's article about baking baking soda to convert it from sodium bicarbonate to sodium carbonate? Does that really work? Does it make a solution stronger? Is it safe?
+
+[36:17] And what about the stuff I found at the Chinese market? There's a bottle of clear liquid labeled potassium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate solution, and they also have some white crystals of borax, which are labeled not food safe, but are right next to the spices. So what's safe and what's not? I don't want to poison myself or others. And as a final note, how does eteries make fossilized the fossilized veggies in Spain, like salsa v with calcium?
+
+[36:38] What's the reaction going on there? Is it the same as the banana that we cook with calcium hydroxide? And is there any other fun applications? Well, Brian, in San Francisco, uh a lot of questions there. I'm gonna try and hit them in the little amount of time that I have uh left.
+
+[36:53] Um he is using calcium hydroxide. Uh I haven't had them, by the way, so I don't know specifically, but I have talked to people that have had uh Adoreas' the uh vegetables that are done this way. I think also um uh Rennie Redsepi at NOMA does uses this technique, and they're uh basically firming up the outside of vegetables uh using um using they use calcium hydroxide to to basically crosslink the the pectin there. And that's what's going on. Calcium cross-linking of pectin.
+
+[37:20] They're usually done in conjunction with heat treatment, uh, which activates uh the enzyme inside uh the uh inside the vegetables that causes it to happen, which is pectin methyl esterase. And so the combination of calcium and the heat uh activating the pectin methylesterase makes a very strong outside shell, uh, and then uh the inside basically is allowed to get mushy in the outside firm. Now, what I do with a banana is I inject calcium hydroxide into the banana, and the injection of calcium hydroxide makes the banana firm all the way through. We've recently done it without the calcium hydroxide by injecting with uh just calcium and then heat treating it and getting a similar result. But that's that's what's going on with with those.
+
+[38:00] Uh and you can do those and uh you know at home. It's the exact same thing that goes on with the banana, uh, which is you know traditionally done in uh Thai cooking and other Asian cooking. So, yes, that's a very good thing. That's calcium hydroxide, really lots of different forms of calcium will do that for you. Now, borax is uh used as a food ingredient in other countries, but is not legal for food use here in the U.S.
+
+[38:22] Now I don't know what the specific health problems with it are, right? But there is food-grade borax, for instance, caviar is treated with borax. It's uh it it affects the texture in a way that I'm not really don't really understand. Borax is, I think, uh, I believe it's uh it's a borate, like sodium, two sodiums, and then borate, which is like uh I think four borons and uh tetraborate, I think. Anyway, and but it's uh it uh it's used as a texture modifier but also as a preservative.
+
+[38:51] So in caviar they'll add a little borax and to fish road, they'll add borax to it as a preservative. And I read on Wikipedia, so take it with a grain of borax. But um well, this part of it, that that our caviar that we get here in the US is more highly salted because borax isn't allowed to be added to it. But it's definitely used in uh in other cultures as I've never used it, as a firming agent and as a as a preservative. Um borax, if you can get a hold of it, is also the cool stuff that you mix with Elmer's.
+
+[39:17] It's it's a it's an agent that helps polymerize things, make larger polymers. So I was finding a lot of articles on using borax borax to to make uh larger like food polymers, but not I couldn't find anything specific for you know normal use. But if you mix it with Elmer's glue, you can make slime. Borax and Elmer's glue mixed together. Silly putty is I think different, like PV polyvinyl alcohol is the is the glue is the what glue Elmer's white glue is, and if you add borax to it, it polymerizes and turns to polymerized PVA, which is slime, you know, gAC or whatever, that's stuff that's in the that's you know, that's slime, which I'm extremely interested in because I want to make a food-grade slime.
+
+[39:55] I'm working on it, but I haven't fixed it yet. Okay. The potassium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate solution that you see is consui. That's what's used to make um that's what's used to make the stretchy yellow alkaline noodles, right? So you add that, that's a basic solution, and that's very classic in Chinese uh, you know, recipes.
+
+[40:12] Your flour is gonna go very yellow, and it's gonna the noodles are gonna have a lot of bite to it, right? It's gonna really uh enhance the kind of gluten snappiness of those things. That's the consuway that's typically used for for the yellow aqual and noodles, although I don't know how basic it is, it might also be useful for pretzels. I'm not sure. That stuff is also mistakenly sometimes sold as lye water, even though it doesn't contain lye, which is everything everything's gotta be.
+
+[40:36] Brian, everything's gotta be a pain in the ass. You know what I'm saying? Oh, you can't see that. Like ass is different, it's a donkey. Uh it makes no sense.
+
+[40:42] You make no sense. Alright. Uh now, the converting baking soda to uh to you know, the sodium bicarbonate to sodium carbonate actually does work and will make a fine pretzel. Lye is traditional. I've never done a side-by-side taste test of lye boiled pretzels versus uh sodium carbonate pretzels.
+
+[40:58] Um I have made sodium bicarbonate pretzels and they were meh, meh. You know what I mean? Like like, but I've never done lye versus sodium carbonate. McGee's technique definitely does work. You can also tell if it's worked because the weight changes of the sodium bicarbonate because water is being driven off.
+
+[41:15] So you can weigh the sample before and after to verify that you have in fact converted it. Use that um to is it water that's driven off? Don't know. Or CO2. Uh I can't remember.
+
+[41:26] Anyway, I can't remember what's driven off. But then uh you can weigh it and weigh the difference, and then use that to make your pretzels, add it and do the boil. The reason you boil pretzels uh in a basic solution is because that will radically in first of all it changes the flavor, makes it taste like a pretzel and not like like uh you know something else, like a bagel or something like that. You know, because a pretzel is supposed to taste like a pretzel. First of all, pretzels should be freaking twisted.
+
+[41:49] I don't like pretzel sticks. I don't like molded pretzels, I don't like any of these pretzeloids. I don't like I don't like like fish pretz-shaped pretzels. I mean, they're okay. They shouldn't be called pretzels.
+
+[41:59] Pretzels need to be twisted because the way they break up. When you eat a pretzel, it's twisted. It breaks up in a very specific way. The pretzels are supposed to break up based on the fact that they were a stick of dough that's been twisted into a shape that we know as a pretzel, right? And so uh, you know, the the middle knot has a different texture from the nubbins.
+
+[42:14] There's also bakes differently in different parts, which adds varied uh texture to it as well. So a real pretzel, and I've taught my kids this since they were about since they could speak, I can walk up to my kids and say, what's a real pretzel? And they're like, Daddy, a real pretzel's twisted, because that is what a pretzel should be. Anyway, uh aside from that, it needs the real pretzel taste uh from the um for boiling in bait in a basic solution. It also that's gonna enhance the Maillard reaction.
+
+[42:42] So the reason pretzels are so dark brown is because they have been boiled beforehand in a basic solution. Um but I haven't done live versus sodium carbonate, but I'm sure the sodium carbonate's gonna be good. If you can have lie around, do it. If not, I'm sure sodium carbonate's a fine, fine runner up. Also, if you are going to make a hard pretzel, please do not add any oil to the pretzel at all.
+
+[43:05] Don't add any oil at all. If you take most pretzels that are bad, even twisted ones or ones on the market, I'm not gonna call out roll gold as a bad brand of pretzels, but if I did, it's because if you looked at the ingredient label or Bachman, which like would otherwise be a fine pretzel because it's twisted, they're large ones, right? Uh, if you look at the ingredient label, they have oil in it, and that reduces the texture of a pretzel from what God intended a pretzel to be, which is delicious, to that of a cracker with a dark brown crust on the outside and salt. That's not what you want a pretzel to be. Alright, now I have one last thing, and I'm gonna defer this to the eater blog, as the first one's gonna go to the eater blog.
+
+[43:46] Adam Frost uh adds a question about legumes and the a vegetal taste uh that legumes have when they're raw. And since A, I didn't have time to research it thoroughly, and B, it's time for us to go. Adam, I'm gonna answer your question on eater tonight or tomorrow, although I'm gonna have to call McGee to see what he see what he thinks. Alright? So listen, your pretzels must be twisted, your pretzels must not contain oil, and your pretzels must be boiled in alkaline solution.
+
+[44:12] Cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information.
+
+[44:43] Thanks for listening. You got my head all twisted. And the guests can't get it straight. Nicole Taylor is always the first to talk with new and exciting personalities in the food world on her show Hot Grease. Check out a little clip.
+
+[44:59] Everything is super sweet in the Heritage Radio Network studios. Today, we're chatting with Fanny Gerson. Fanny is a graduate of Culinary Institute of America and the 2011 James Beard Foundation Cookbook Award nominee. Oh my God. We fry in bad style.
+
+[45:18] We have to talk dough. Donuts. I'm going to have to say, Fanny, I don't know if you know this. I was definitely the first person in Brooklyn to start talking about dough. Did you know that?
+
+[45:27] I I knew that last time I saw you. Ah. But I didn't know that before. So we have to talk dough. I mean, it is it is a bona fide phenomenon in Brooklyn.
+
+[45:37] Uh I'm so excited to be part of it. I and I can't believe it. I mean, I was just telling you before the show that uh I think about a month ago I went to dough on a Sunday at two o'clock, and all the donuts. You like what you hear? You can hear hot grease every Monday at 3 30 p.m.
+
+[45:52] live on Heritage Radio Network.com. Make sure to subscribe to the podcast or check it out in our archives. This is behind the scenes food news with Katie Kiefer. This little nugget comes from Food Safety News, which is a blog that you can get every single day if you want to sign up for it. I love it.
+
+[46:11] And in this one, it says, in what qualifies as ground shifting news in the food safety world. The U.S. Department of Agriculture today, too, on Tuesday, lopped 15 degrees off of its recommended temperature for safely cooking whole cuts of pork, aligning it with guidelines already in place for beef, veal, and lamb. Heating steak, roasts, and chops to an internal temperature of 145 degrees Fahrenheit, so long as the meat sits briefly before it's eaten is enough to ensure its safety, the USDA said. This latest revision for pork comes again on the advice of the FSIS, which is this food safety inspection service, which says cooking cuts of pork to 145 degree Fahrenheit with a three minute rest is as safe as cooking them to one sixty degrees, the previously recommended temperature with no rest time.
+
+[46:58] So now you can have a little bit of pink juicy pork, even if you're buying commodity pork, which should vastly improve its taste and eating quality. This has been behind the scenes food news with Katie Keefer.
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+[0:00] The following is a public service announcement from Just Food. Help bring live chickens into food challenge communities through your donations to the Just Food City Chicken Project 2011. The City Chicken Project would not be possible without the volunteer hours, donations large and small, and the vibrant energy and ideas of the communities we work with. Just Food is a nonprofit organization that connects New York City communities and local and urban farmers with the resources and support they need to make fresh, locally grown food accessible to all. To donate, search on Kickstarter.com for just food and find their City Chicken Project.
+
+[0:34] For more information on Just Food, visit just food.org or call 212-645-9880. That's 212-645-9880. Let's keep making New York City a better place to live and eat. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you live on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from 12 to 1245 here in the studio with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez and special unannounced guest caller in, Harold McGee.
+
+[1:18] So we're gonna is Harold there? Good morning, Dave. Good morning, good morning. How are you doing? To listen, I didn't tell any guys out there that he was gonna be on.
+
+[1:27] We're gonna I actually told him, can you just answer these two questions? I'm gonna try and keep them on as long as I can. So if you we we if a caller calls in, will you take it? Uh uh you know, I'd love to uh if we can maybe get this uh the phone connection fixed, because I'm hearing uh like every other millisecond of your of what you're saying. Alright, why don't we do this?
+
+[1:48] Uh Jack, why don't you re re-establish that connection? I'll just do the top of the show uh kind of crud, all right? We'll reestablish Harold's questions. Call in your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-2497 2-28.
+
+[2:03] And oh Nastasha, today's going to be a Texas themed uh songs in the in the middle because I just got back from Texas. Did you choose them already? Uh I did choose them already. Uh by the way, today's a show brought to you by City Chicken, right, which is Nastasha's next band, I think City Chicken, right? But on the on the subject of raising uh livestock uh in the city, uh something I've been interested in a long, long time is micro livestock.
+
+[2:26] The uh the I believe it's the FAO put out a book on micro livestock maybe about 15 years ago, 10, 15 years ago, and I read it with much interest. Did you know, Nastasha, that there are breeds of livestock that, although not as efficient at producing meat or milk as the larger breeds of livestock, can be raised in situations where you don't have enough land to produce even one. So if you you don't have enough pasture to raise even one cow, you can raise two micro cows, and those two micro cows will produce one third of the milk of a of a regular cow but you couldn't even raise a regular cow, right? You like that? Wow.
+
+[2:57] So what I want is if anyone is willing to raise some sort of micro livestock illegally in the city, I think we should chip together and buy them one. Like buy it like buy like a couple people have pet pigs but like what if you had like a micro eating pig? You know what I mean? Or like eh, you know, and they raised it in their apartment. Do you think we should support that or no?
+
+[3:14] No. Why not? Sure take on another take on another project. Well that's not a project. Someone else is going to do it.
+
+[3:19] All we have to do is buy them the animal anyway. Something to think about. Do we have uh Harold back on the line? Harold's back. Harold's back.
+
+[3:27] Very good. Is that connection better, Harold? Uh it is, yeah, so far. Good we'll we'll hope that uh since it's my cell phone number, I hope that uh connection stays here. Oh yeah, yeah.
+
+[3:37] Cell phone. I know he you are you were also a victim of ATT and T as am I, right? Yes. Yes. Yes.
+
+[3:43] Got an got an email from them yesterday saying, Welcome to the new T A T and T. I hope this one works. All right. Uh okay. So the the first question we had in was about uh legumes.
+
+[3:56] It comes from Adam Frost. Um and I I guess he's uh out of the UK because he spells flavor with the UK kind of uh fashion. But he says, uh legumes and some grains have a slightly acrid vegetable taste when raw, but this dissipates after a certain amount of cooking, usually proportional to the size of the seed. Is this the work uh and or destruction of enzymes? Also, if you cook some starchy food, again, grains and legumes, for far too long, approximately twelve hours, they can develop an off flavor that is difficult to describe.
+
+[4:24] If you know what I'm talking about, do you know what causes this? Now I tried to figure out this answer on my own, but I realized this is really Harold's, you know, uh purview. Also, before before I go, I didn't introduce Harold. For those for like the two people who might have ever listened to this who don't already know who Harold is, Harold McGee is the uh is the grandmaster of uh science as it relates to making things uh delicious. Wrote uh the seminal book on food and cooking, first edition, right, which you need to go buy, even if you have the new one, you need to go buy the old one because it's quite different from the current on food and cooking.
+
+[4:57] Uh both books have been uh, you know, since eighty four, I think, uh, and the other one since when, like two thousand and four. The the uh the things that you need in your kitchen if you want to help explain what's going on while you're cooking. It's like it's the reference work. If you get one book, get that one. That's kind of how it works.
+
+[5:15] But you should also buy the old one. Uh I'm OG Herald, by the way. I had the original before the new one came out, so I consider myself OG, OG Herald fan. Uh you also need to go on Bookfinder and pick up a copy of Curious Cook, which is going to teach you more, in my opinion, from knowing you for several years, kind of uh how Harold thinks when he's thinking about things, which is the most important uh thing to do when you're when you're trying to observe food closely and figure out what's going on. And so that's like the more personal book and the and the the newest book is uh key the keys to cooking, right?
+
+[5:47] Keys to good cooking. And what that is is basically like short form, like how to get the answers quick on what's going on without having to delve into the depth of on food and cooking. Would you say that's accurate? Uh yes, I'm very generous. Thank you.
+
+[6:02] And the new book, which i it's not even scheduled, but the one I know he wants to write, is like the next magnum opus. I don't know if I'm allowed to talk about this, but the next magnum opus, I think that's gonna come out, is uh and and it could be you know a billion years, I don't know, is something on take taste and flavor, and it's probably gonna be the most difficult if I had to write it, it would be the most difficult of the ones so far because there's so much not known uh and there's so much work being done, and it's such a complicated subject. Would you say that's fair or no? No, uh that's absolutely right. And in fact, that uh that's kind of in the background of uh these questions that you uh sent to me.
+
+[6:42] Right, which is both in in their various ways about flavor and uh how complicated it is to figure out what's going on in real foods. Right, which is why I knew you'd be on top of it. So what are your thoughts? Well, uh so on this question about legume and grain flavor, uh it does turn out that uh uh the the flavors of of legumes, especially dried beans and peas and so on. You know, it's very distinctive, and it does have to do with uh very high levels of uh enzymes in the seed that break down uh fats and fatty related uh molecules, oils, um phospholipids and things like that that you find in the membranes of the cells, breaks them down into smaller pieces.
+
+[7:29] Uh big molecules like fats and oil, they don't have intrinsic aromas of their own or flavors, but when you break them down into smaller molecules, then we can taste them and we can smell them. And so it turns out that uh characteristic flavors of those things uh do have to do with very high levels of certain uh fat breaking enzymes that generate lots and lots of um six carbon and eight carbon uh molecules that have the flavor of kind of grass and leaves and things like that on the one hand and mushrooms on the other hand. So in a way, the the flavor of legumes in particular is uh leafy greens plus mushrooms combined together. Um and so uh Adam's question about um that that flavor is there for for quite a while, but then it it sort of dissipates during cooking. Uh what what happens during cooking is that at first uh that encourages the action of those enzymes, so they actually generate more and more of these um uh flavor compounds.
+
+[8:37] But then with time the enzymes get killed by the heat, and then the heat also uh uh drives off those molecules, forces them to react with other molecules, and so those particular qualities kind of fade into the background. Ask Harold and ye shall receive. Right? Um have you ever experienced the cooking for a long time off flavors on starchy foods? I've never cooked just grains or uh beans by themselves for a long time.
+
+[9:14] I've certainly cooked in reheated uh pots of um uh bean dishes and that kind of thing, but that's different because you've got herbs and spices and other stuff in there, and that's gonna change the the equation. So I've never actually done the experiment of cooking uh beans for twelve hours to see what happens to them. Uh I I don't really know offhand what uh sorts of molecules you would get because you know that's essentially taking the process I just described and expending it for uh a long, long time. And uh so that's that's an experiment I have to do. Right.
+
+[9:51] I mean, I would guess the two choices are the water is s slightly alkaline and you're getting some sort of myd reaction that you perceive as an off-flavor because you don't want that breadiness, or two, you're getting some sort of fat oxidation on whatever fats are left over. I don't know. What do you think? Yeah, it could be those. It could be that you're uh because at the same time that you're creating flavor, you're also losing it because you're cooking it for so long.
+
+[10:13] You know, uh the the more volatile molecules are gonna go away and you're gonna be left with the less volatile stuff. And so the balance of aromas is gonna change, and maybe it's just gonna be something that doesn't smell as much like beans or or grains as you expect them to. So you're like losing a masking flavor. Yeah, yeah. Uh but I I don't think, you know, uh Adam posed the question uh as um uh it having to do with the starchiness of these particular uh foods, but they're seeds, which do have a lot of starch.
+
+[10:47] Uh I don't think the starch has much to do with it, except that uh it's possible that starch might be with with the long cooking, uh the starch uh grains break open and you you end up with uh with free starch, which ends up in the cooking liquid eventually. Uh that stuff may be binding some of the aroma molecules. Um that certainly is is known in the food science literature that amylose and amylopectin can actually bind aroma molecules, which then means that they're not available to our noses to uh to smell. So that might be part of it as well. Right.
+
+[11:25] So you th you probably think it's not like uh a starch hydrolysis over time, that's and then the smaller things breaking down into something else. Uh yeah, I I I kind of doubt it, but uh but I don't know. Yeah. All righty. Well, uh again, you are the perfect man to ask these questions.
+
+[11:43] Uh the second one that I thought you were perfect for, being a San Franciscan or what do you call yourself? San Franciscans. What what are you guys? Folk from San Francisco? Yeah, yeah.
+
+[11:55] We we don't have a uh we we need to develop a good term for that. Rice Aroni eaters. Right. Um this question is on sourdough, which I know you've researched um quite a bit, uh uh, especially as r uh regards its uh flavor compounds. And so um this this one's for you from uh Christian uh Swanpole.
+
+[12:17] You think you pronounce that Swan pole? Swanpole? How do you think you can do it? Sounds like to me, yeah. Yeah.
+
+[12:22] Uh from New Zealand, and we love the New Zealanders and the Australians, especially because they have come up uh uh in force to say that the show today tonight or tonight today or whatever it is that was anti-miklu is a is a like tabloid farce. Uh maybe more on that later if we have time, I doubt we will. He writes, uh I've read quite a bit about sourdough starters and there seems to be a lot of different information about how temperatures and hydration levels affect the starter and also the final bread dough. Peter Reinhart, who's a you know well known author in the bread world, says that a firmer starter promotes the production of lactic rather than acetic acid. Well instructions that come with a starter I bought, because the one he raised himself died because he neglected it, join the cru uh club Christian, uh says exactly the opposite.
+
+[13:04] The instructions also say that warmer temperatures encourage lactic acid and cooler temperatures acetic. I've read elsewhere that putting the dough in the fridge halts yeast activity while lactobacilli continue to produce acid. Could you please clear this up for me? And uh he maybe you want to handle that one and then handle the second question, second pronged this after? Uh yeah, because it is that is a different uh different kind of question.
+
+[13:27] All right but uh so uh he starts his question by saying there seems to be a lot of different uh pieces of information about how temperatures and hydration levels affect starter and final red dough boy is that true that there's a lot of different pieces of information out there. So when I reviewed the literature uh back in the early part of the century, you know, 2000, 2003 or so for uh the second edition of my book uh the the lesson I drew at the time was that uh cooler temperatures are actually uh and and uh firmer starters are better for the yeast. Because you know, sourdough is essentially uh you've got yeast that are providing the gas for leavening, but you've also got bacteria that are generating a lot of the flavor, including acids, which is why it's a sourdough. And uh some acid is good for flavor um and for other properties of the sourdough. Um, but too much means that the yeast don't get a chance to generate uh enough uh uh carbon dioxide to give you a nice leaven loaf.
+
+[14:42] So you want the bacteria to do well, but you really want the yeasts to do well too. And the problem is that they the the acids of the bacteria inhibit the growth of the yeasts. So there is this delicate balancing act in general between the yeasts and the and the bacteria, even before you get into issues of the difference between lactic acid and acetic acid, which are both acids. Uh so on the question of the balance between the yeast and the bacteria, the lesson I took three, four years ago was that, uh I guess it's longer ago now than that, uh ten years ago, um, uh that lower temperatures, fermentation temperatures and firmer starters gave the yeast a better chance of um uh being there in enough numbers to give you a good dough. Uh I uh I took another look uh last night and this morning, and even that seems to be uh in question now.
+
+[15:42] So the the the basic problem with the whole thing is that uh it's such a variable system that depending on who's doing the experiment and what the conditions are, people are coming up with completely uh opposite um findings as to you know what's what are the best conditions for uh the growth of the yeasts or for getting particular sets of acids. And I just don't know who to believe. Right. Um I mean part of it is it's extremely complicated because it's not it's not anywhere close to a single system. You're dealing with with you know dozens at least uh you know, on the on the small amount of research I was able to do, dozens of different um lacto uh lactobacilli uh strains that are involved uh in different sourdough starters, multiple, multiple bacteria per starter, dozens that are that are commonly known, plus different uh yeast, some wild, and and the balance of those two things is affected by many things, including the type of flour, the ash content of the flour, the temperature, the hydration, all of it affects it, right?
+
+[16:43] I mean it's it's it's just an incredibly complicated system. Yeah, yeah. How often you stir it, um uh how much you aerate it during the stirring, so your stirring technique makes a difference. Right. Because uh oxygen uh something that's useful to remember in general, and this I think uh has not been contradicted by anything, uh yeasts uh actually do need oxygen to uh to grow well.
+
+[17:11] Um and of course, in a in a dough, um you're you're essentially forcing them to do with with very little, but when you're encouraging them to um to grow in your starter so that you start out with a good dose of them in your bread dough, uh it's really good to to whip that uh sourdough starter or knead it if it's a firmer starter a lot in order to get air in there to give the uh the yeast a leg up on the bacteria. Right. And uh, you know, there's a couple bunch of different kinds of the lactic acid bacteria, some of which, the uh most of which actually, the hetero uh fermentive ones will actually produce some CO2, and that's how they produce acetic acid at the same time if there's oxygen present or other things like fructose. There's like, you know, so adding air will also increase the amount of acetic versus adding oxygen rather will increase the amount of acetic versus lactic acid. I mean, it's just the whole thing's complicated.
+
+[18:11] Yeah, yeah, exactly. And and as the second part of Christian's question indicates, uh, just getting the thing to grow at all is such a challenge that I myself am happy not to worry about the lactic versus acetic balance, because but it's true that those are two different acids. One has an aroma and the other doesn't. One is uh your the the aroma of vinegar, and you want a little bit of that, but not too much. Uh and lactic acid gives you maybe a kind of cleaner tartness than acetic does.
+
+[18:44] But those are real fine points, and the the important thing to begin with is just getting something going and relatively stable so that you can then begin to refine the the results. Well, uh this has been very enlightening. Can you stay with us past the next uh past the first break or no? Yeah. Super.
+
+[19:02] All right, we're gonna go to our first break. Calling your questions to Harold McGee and cooking issues at 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. They had a war of out for me all over the country. And I was trying to beat two wraps in Idaho.
+
+[19:23] I was breaking into a school house Sunday morning without warning. When I saw the sheriff coming for me, slow from down below. His deal gray eyes were blazing lay solid. His hand was on his gun when he rolled up. He said you kill that woman.
+
+[19:45] And oh, you shot her why you do it. I'm taking you to Austin that I'm gonna lock you up. Well, he tied me with the flour line the next morning. Oh god, I love that song. That's uh Johnny Cash, Austin Prison.
+
+[20:01] Using that song because I just got back from Austin from the IACP uh conference. Uh did a demo with Nils and Chris Young from the Modernist Cookbook, and then MC'd uh the awards with uh with Chris Young. We went to a lot of barbecue, but that's the only Austin song I know, even though it's like one of the biggest music towns in the city, Austin Prison. And then my favorite part about it is Johnny Cash goes a s a crazy screaming lynch mob waited in the streets of Austin, which we didn't quite get to, but great song. You a Johnny Cash fan, Harold?
+
+[20:30] I am gotta be gotta love Johnny Cash. One of my great musical regrets is I never got to see Johnny Cash before he died live. So I've seen many of my uh many of my idols, but not never got to see Johnny Cash. Anyway, um speaking of Chris Young and a modernist cuisine, uh, Nastasha, Harold, maybe Chris Young, and I, and Doug Duda from the uh ISCP, uh are all I think Doug's gonna go, are all traveling very soon at the beginning of July down to uh South Dade, Florida, to have a mango orgy. We're going to eat.
+
+[21:07] Well, come on, you can call it that. They have something like 400 varieties of mango, several hundred varieties of avocado, I believe upwards of seven uh no hundreds of varieties of avocado, upwards of seventy-five varieties of jackfruit. And we're gonna do a mega two-day tasting uh of the type that we have done with um citrus and apples, and then you know, Stasha and I did with pears. I'm pretty excited about it. You, Harold?
+
+[21:32] Very much, very much, yes. I got got to get into training, though. You know, those are high acid fruits. Oh my god. I know we should we should probably we always joke about it, we should probably carry some sort of antacid with us, right?
+
+[21:44] Actually, that's a that's a good idea. That's a good idea. I hadn't thought of that. Although, you know, that's that's takes care of the stomach, but what about the taste buttons? Yeah, yeah.
+
+[21:55] Uh we're also gonna need I'm gonna need to sh I'll ship, I need to ship a fruit knife down there, or eat or else check luggage, right? Because we're gonna need a fruit tasting knife. Uh I'm gonna need uh I gotta figure out a way because we gotta pack the avocados. We can't taste the avocados that day. I need a good packing technique.
+
+[22:11] I was thinking maybe foam in place. I'm working on it. Anyway, it's gonna be it's gonna be an epic tasting, and no one's gonna be down there because who the heck wants to be in the very southern tip of Florida uh, you know, at the beginning of July. Uh it turns out I'm flying my family out after that for like the only family vacation we've ever taken via airplane, and I was gonna take my kids to the Everglades because my youngest son likes uh uh croc uh alligators. And then uh, but I forgot that my older son has a phobia of flying insects, like almost as bad as the girl from the movie Chocolate, but not quite that bad.
+
+[22:42] And uh and I was recounting to my wife last night as we were going to bed, how um the mosquitoes are like you know, you know, huge fat mosquitoes that swarm on you like like like I've never seen anything like it. Uh I read a quote yesterday from the Everglades, because I want to take them to the Everglades that you swing a quart jar and gallon uh and get a gallon of mosquitoes, and it's it's true. It's unbelievable. So my wife, my wife was like, Dave, you are an extreme idiot. What made you think we should go to the Everglades at the height of mosquito season?
+
+[23:12] So now we're trying to think of something else to do in South Florida on the way to visit my 92-year-old grandpa. Anyway, that's neither here nor there. Um I'm just excited about the mangoes. That's all I'm gonna say about it. And the avocado.
+
+[23:24] Remember, uh, I don't Harold, I told you they have an avocado that's seedless and is shaped like a banana. Yes, yes. I I don't I still don't believe that. I think that's uh it's it's gotta be a mythological avocado. It can't be real.
+
+[23:37] Well, well we'll we'll find out. If it if look, if it's real, I I can't believe it hasn't been commercialized. It's absurd because she said uh it tastes good, and basically you just score it when it's you know when it's hard, and then you let it ripen and you peel it like a banana, which is great because most avocados I find difficult to peel like a banana, to say the least when they're ripe. Yeah. Um although that might be an interesting idea to pre-score an avocado when it's hard, let it ripen, and then just peel it off.
+
+[24:02] Of course, then what are you gonna do? You can't eat it with a seed like that. Dumb, dumb. Anyway, uh another thing, Harold. I had a I was doing some reading in Eric Bloch's uh garlic book, garlic and alliums, and uh, you know who has one of the foremost collections of alliums in the world?
+
+[24:16] New York Botanical Garden. New York Botanical Garden. Let's organize a tasting next time you're in New York, huh? If it's good, if it's a good season, right? Do you know those guys at all?
+
+[24:25] Uh I know a couple of people there, yeah. Yeah, I've got that'd be an interesting tasting. No one's gonna want to get near us. Right? Won't invite Nils to that one.
+
+[24:36] He hates he hates raw garlic, detests it, hates it. Um that's another good uh good thing to do when you have a kitchen handy because you're gonna want to cook some of them. Okay, back to the questions. Uh by the way, call in your questions to uh to us or to Harold at 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128.
+
+[24:54] Okay, Ryan Santos writes in with a custard question. Uh he has an issue this week uh with uh a buttermilk custard panicata. He's doing an off-site catering event, not his forte, but it's in an air conditioned room, which will have no access to refrigeration during the event. The event is three hours. So is a cooked custard safe to sit that long at AC temp, or well, I have to ice bath it.
+
+[25:14] If it is safe, what would you suggest to use so that it stays set? I figure gelatin may get too soft over time. A mix of carrageenans, perhaps. Uh I would not worry about the safety, Harold, would you? I mean, and not um I would not worry at about it at all.
+
+[25:27] No, no, because it's been thoroughly cooked and uh it's air-conditioned room, so it's not gonna be that hot. And three hours, uh three-hour event, yeah, that sounds sounds safe. Yeah, um yeah, I'm I'm totally okay with that. Um you know, if if you if you're worried about the gelatin, which you might be, especially during transportation and whatnot, uh, I would uh use um you would use uh carrageenans. Um it the the reason to use carrageenans in milk-based systems is that it takes a preposterously small amount of carrageenin to set a milk baked system.
+
+[26:03] So you're gonna want to use a very little amount, otherwise it's gonna be too hard. Kappa is gonna be brittle and iota is gonna be soft. Um you could use a mix since most carrageans are mixed anyway. Iota is good because if it should break, it'll reform along that line, so it might prevent cracking or anything like that. If you you find that uh you're using just kappa carrageen and it's too hard, you can add a little bit of locust bean gum, which is gonna soften it up a little bit.
+
+[26:27] Uh any any thoughts on that, Harold? Uh that sounds good. Uh, you can also go the old fashioned way, use a little bit of uh starch or flour. See, see, old fashioned way. See why we need someone tempering this show.
+
+[26:44] You know what I mean? It's like, you know, all the simple stuff. I'm like, go get a bunch of carragain and mix it in. Um yeah. I uh also uh the one thing I always say with safety with hydrocolides, I don't know if it's been proven or Harold, whether you've done any further research, but a while ago there was some uh work saying that perhaps kappa carragenin w is not necessarily um a hundred percent uh safe to use uh from a car carcinogen standpoint in uh very acid systems, but I doubt that uh buttermilk is acid enough for it to really be a problem.
+
+[27:12] Your thoughts on that. Um yeah, I haven't looked at it recently, but that that sounds correct. Also, as you say, it's it's a tiny quantity and it's a dessert, and so people aren't gonna be getting a whole lot, uh, certainly a lot less than somebody's gonna get if they eat some seaweed. Right. Yeah, chew on some uh yeah, don't go out and get the seaweed, squeeze a bunch of lime over it and start uh start chomping on it.
+
+[27:36] Uh although you know what? Like I haven't seen anything on that research in a long, long time, so I'm wondering whether or not it's um uh whether or not it's even current research. Yeah, I'll I'll take a look at that uh today. Get back to you. Yeah, cool.
+
+[27:51] Um, speaking of current research, so you know the most recent post, although it's like two weeks old now, that I have on the site is uh my defense of transglutaminase. And this uh this guy writes in and and says uh, you know, basically that his wife has had a whole bunch of uh gastrointestinal problems and surgeries, and um, and she really liked to eat chicken McNuggets, literally chicken McNuggets and cheap qual cheap cuts of meat, and I can't guarantee that it wasn't T G that did it to her. And of course, of course I can't, you know what I mean. I also can't guarantee it wasn't space people that did it to me. You know what I mean?
+
+[28:35] I can't prove a negative like that's crazy, you know what I mean? Um But something I uh uh I just want to say about this uh is that uh everywhere on the internet, and this is the this is as much as I think the internet's literally the greatest tool that uh has ever been given to us in terms of anything really, but cooking as well, um there's so much crap that gets uh propagated, like continuously propagated uh on the internet. Uh, and I guess it it the same thing happened actually back in the uh in actual literature, like you've traced like the searing myth, famously trace the searing myth, um, and just keeps on getting uh propagated, you know, uh writer after writer after writer until somebody squashes it. Everyone says that chicken McNuggets are made with transglutaminase. And uh the fact of the matter is trickin the chicken McNuggets were uh first uh released onto the scene in 1980 before uh before microbial transglutaminase was available, uh, and I guarantee you they weren't using guinea pig liver transglutaminase because it's too expensive and needs calcium to work.
+
+[29:40] Uh you do not need transglutaminase to make a chicken McNugget. Uh nowhere have I ever been able to find any reference that even even obliquely says that McDonald's uses transglutaminase in their chicken and McNugget formulation. Now, I'm willing to I mean they could use it, that's a way to do it, but it's by no means necessary. And so uh I wish people would stop saying that um that you know TG is the is the reason, you know, McNuggets how McNuggets came to be. Because it's just not not true.
+
+[30:11] Even if there is TG in the formulation now. Um, these pe people just get all bent out of shape about stuff that they have no data about. You know, what do you have you ever heard of TG being used in a McNugget? Um I uh have to confess I haven't read a lot about uh chicken McNuggets. Right.
+
+[30:32] Uh uh either way. Um but you know, people have been sticking odd scraps of meat together for millennia. Uh and I mean that's essentially how sausages work, right? You you salt chunks of meat and that draws some of the myosin out of the um the meat, and myosin is a sticky protein and things stick together. And it's as simple as that.
+
+[30:56] Yeah. Boom. No TG required. You know? Yeah.
+
+[30:59] Uh and it's uh, you know, it's called uh the primary bind when you're making sausages, and it's how it works. It's how it's how it's always worked. Um, you know, and I'm sure that they have a uh chicken and McNugget batter that they have like some kind of blended chicken with salt, some pieces, and they just keep folding it until the until uh you know the myosin's developed, and then it'll stick in whatever shape they want. I mean, no problem. Uh and it's a lot uh cheaper than using transglutaminase, and uh from a production standpoint, they don't have to worry about uh setting times or setting rates, so it's probably easier for them to not use it uh in that in that application.
+
+[31:40] Um so you know, that's one of those things I I wish people would just do a little bit, like even like a tiny bit of research. But if you look everywhere, it says nuggets. Now, an interesting one is surimi. So surimi, right, is uh f like fish, like basically it's it's kind of if you read about how seremi is made, it's kind of horrific. Wouldn't you agree, Harold?
+
+[32:01] I mean it's kind of it's it's kind of just horrible. It's like to like they deflavor uh they de-aromatize and and you know, wash any normal kind of flavor out of like whatever kind of fish scrap crap they have lying around, and then you know, uh basically re-gel it again in uh kind of seremi shapes, and they're formerly were made without transglutaminase, um although there's evidence that there's endogenous, meaning uh you know already occurring transglutaminase that might have some that add to some of the gelling capability of the fish mix. Um but there is it is true that in current surimi applications, an attempt to use fish that don't have a high enough gelling power to make it adequate seremi on their own that they are uh uh adding transglutaminase to it. But don't blame Cerimi on transglutaminase, just you know, the attempt to extend it even further. Um yeah, are you a big suremi guy, Harold?
+
+[33:00] You know, I actually kind of enjoy it every once in a while. It's got it's got that nice kind of bouncy texture to it. Um so you know, a slice on top of some ramen with with uh the other stuff. I I kind of like that a lot. Yeah.
+
+[33:14] Also, you would you would have no uh California roll without the surimi, right? That's right. Yeah. Yeah. Because if you were just using avocado and if you were to use shrimp instead of surimi, it wouldn't be right, right?
+
+[33:25] That's right. And I couldn't eat it. Oh, right. Yeah. Wait, that's an interesting question.
+
+[33:30] They do they only use uh uh fish in sarimi, or do they ever put the uh do they ever put other things like shrimp into it? And if they did, is it so thoroughly washed that any uh protein that's causing you a problem is washed away from it? Well, I think the uh uh the protein that causes me the problem is actually a component of the muscle um uh the set of muscle proteins, it's tropomyosin. So I have a feeling it would stick around uh even through the the sere me processing. But the whole point of ceremony is that you use really, really cheap uh like pollock or something like that to make something like crab or shrimp.
+
+[34:11] And um, so I think it's uh the idea of actually using crab or shrimp or some kind of crustacean in the surimi is just uh it's against the whole idea of ceremony in the first place. Again, again, good insight. All right, can you stick around for one more cycle of this? Sure. All right, call in your questions to 718-497-2128.
+
+[34:33] That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues. Guitars do good and firm feeling women. Got you with me tonight. Maybe it's time we got back to the basics of love. Let's go to Lupin Bactics.
+
+[35:00] Willing will be in the boys. The successful life for a living got us few black head feels and because Williams pain songs. Blueberry's train songs and blue eyes crying in the rain. The following is a public service announcement from Heritage Radio Network. Every Sunday at 4 30 p.m.
+
+[35:44] tune in to Burning Down the House. Architecture is the laser focus of burning down the house. A weekly discourse on all things built, destroyed, admired, and despised. Each week, Curtis B. Wayne, your host, invites a posse of authors, critics, builders, designers, and other architecture themes to reflect on various topics related to perhaps the most functional of all art forms.
+
+[36:06] Again, that's every Sunday at 4 30 p.m. on the Heritage Radio Network. Whalen Jennings, Luke and Vach Texas, another classic, right? From our Texas theme uh thing. That that song is great.
+
+[36:23] In fact, uh, Whalen, you know, Jennings unfortunately died way too young, but um uh the person I used to play bass with in my high school band is in his son shooter's band. Pretty cool, right? Cool. Shooter Jennings. I've never seen Nastasia look so excited on the show.
+
+[36:41] Jeez. Okay, you know, Nastasha doesn't really much Nastasha doesn't like stories really or people, so she doesn't like uh country music much. Is this accurate? Except for Merle, you now you like Merle. I just don't like hearing the story over and over and over.
+
+[36:55] It's the same story. What yeah, Harold, can you believe this? Yeah. You know, what you know what what am I Yeah? People.
+
+[37:07] People, this is this is this is what I this is what I put up with people. This is what I put up with. Anyway. Okay. Uh a question uh actually posted on um and we'll I'll rip through this one uh quick but it's of interest to some people.
+
+[37:21] Katie HP wrote into the blog actually has a question hoping we can give the answer. I received a country ham for a Christmas gift. I was told you can store them almost indefinitely so I put it in my refrigerator. Now I'm told I should have stored it in the cupboard. My question is did I ruin it and have I stored it too long any answers would be appreciated.
+
+[37:37] Well I don't know how long you stored it. Well Christmas right? Christmas gift. No, no. It's fine.
+
+[37:44] It's fine. It's fine. Uh if you've already cut into it you might get some mold here's the problem. American country hams are a little soft in the middle uh because of the way they're cured typically unless they're really really aged. So if it's already been cut into you might get some kind of unfriendly green mold or some kind of like brie like candida mold right on that face.
+
+[38:03] And unless it's penetrated so far into the meat that you get an off flavor on the inside you can just cut a little bit of that off, scrub any other mold off the off side uh outside of the meat and uh I'd be more worried about um the fat picking up flavors from the fridge. Next time freeze it or if you want to age it more hang it. Uh I wouldn't put it in the cupboard because uh mites uh really like dark uh kind of cool places to chew on ham and I've I've had that happen. Uh any what do you what do you think, Harold? You ever stored meat for a long time?
+
+[38:34] Uh yeah. Uh I've I kept a country ham for like a couple of months um downstairs at my place. You know, I'm in San Francisco, which is uh cool to cold year round. So I don't have uh some of the problems you'd have other parts of the country, but um yeah, in in the cool, in in the not completely dark, but semi-dark, uh kept for months for fine. Yeah.
+
+[39:01] Yeah. But I had one that I stored literally in a cupboard, and when I opened up the bag, it was like mite, mite central. You know, once you I I once had like 10 to 15 hams in my house, and one of them had a mite problem, which is common, uh, but they usually they they do a uh they gas the mites out um in um in in production. And uh uh and once you have them in your house, like it's the next time you bring a ham in, it just chews up the ham. But uh I would not worry about that ham uh other than any sort of uh I mean the fridge is problematic from an aroma standpoint, right?
+
+[39:35] And that's pretty much it. Uh yeah, yeah. Uh but but speaking of ham mites, I've never experienced ham mites. Did they do anything interesting to the flavor the way cheese mites do to cheese? Uh interesting question.
+
+[39:50] Um I've never thought about it that much because I usually trim away the mitey area. I've never done like just a tasting of it. They say it makes it bitter, but of course they say the same thing about cheese mites. There's the famous mite cheese, uh I think from Austria, Austria or Germany, where they take Kvark and they let it uh age in mites uh until it's basically a big pile of mite. Have you ever tasted that stuff, the mite cheese?
+
+[40:17] I I haven't tasted that, but in France, there's a uh you know, a tome de Savoie, uh kind of dry uh long aged uh cow's milk cheese from the mountains uh in the eastern part of the country. There's a version of that called Tom Tom de Savoie Syronnay. Um eaten by mites. And I went to uh some farmers markets when I lived in France, and you could, you know, approaching the the market from the parking lot, you could smell it from uh from the edge of the lot. I would just follow my nose.
+
+[40:52] And I actually find that that aroma delicious. So I know some people can't stand it, but there are people who who do appreciate it. So I wonder whether you can get the same kind of effect from ham. Huh. Uh is it was it uh is it bitter at all?
+
+[41:05] Is it impart bitterness to the cheese? Um I yeah, I don't think so. No. I I don't uh I'm thinking back now to the times I've had it, which are many, and uh it's it's mainly an aroma thing. And um, you know, you don't want to actually eat the the frass, you know, the the stuff that the mites have actually chewed on, but they they produce this compound.
+
+[41:30] I think it's uh pheromone, you know, they use it for signaling signaling each other, and it gets into the meat of the cheese itself, and uh it's delicious. Well, you know, the the one uh from either Austria or Germany that's done with Quark, you actually I think eat the mites. Like it's basically it's like mites all the way through. Um I'll be interested. Is Nastash is this your worst nightmare?
+
+[41:56] It is. Yeah, yeah. Uh Nastasha, another uh this this should just be like the Nastacha's quirk Show. She can't look at leaves that are deformed. She can't look at deformed leaves.
+
+[42:08] No, it's like growing spores. Okay. Hey Harold, I don't know whether I've talked to you about this, uh, but uh last I think I did briefly. The last time I did um the Sous Vide Low Temp class, I had a bunch of uh a big crew from South America. We had uh a couple from Brazil and um and you know did different countries, I forget where else did we have a anyway.
+
+[42:30] Uh but they said that there's a tradition down there of storing raw meat under oil. Have we talked about this? No. Yeah, you uh have you ever heard of this? I haven't, no.
+
+[42:42] Yeah. So raw meat uh just submerged under oil and any kind of oil? I guess. And then and then afterwards they cook it as a storage technique, as kind of a pre-refrigeration kind of storage technique. But I said, is it cured like uh Sesina, you know, like uh like Mexican salt beef?
+
+[43:00] Uh and they said, no, it's not cured. And then I mean maybe there was a language barrier. I said, Is it cooked? And they said no, it hasn't been like a you know, like uh like a Riet or a confit. And they said, No, it hasn't been cooked.
+
+[43:14] And I was like, Well, do you die when you eat it? And they said no. Uh but I mean, a couple of things I guess is that uh I mean, I don't know if they actually do salt before they put it under, but if you're gonna cook the the beejesus out of it, I mean you're gonna kill m most everything that's gonna grow in there is gonna be heat labile, right? And it should ferment anyway before anything else happens because it's such a high water content, it should ferment and get kind of lactic, which should also knock back the uh uh the botulism and all that crap, right? Yeah, yeah.
+
+[43:50] But uh very interesting though, yeah. I've never never heard of that before. And uh and my other weird South American question for you is uh are you aware of the uh of the the traditional freeze dried uh Peruvian uh like Inca potatoes. Yes. Uh-huh.
+
+[44:11] Yeah. Uh you ever tried one? Remind me of the name Chunio Blanco. Uh yeah yeah. Yeah.
+
+[44:18] Uh well for those of you that aren't aware of it, uh I want any recipe that doesn't taste like a goat's uh a goat's private parts because this or how I imagine a goat's dirty private parts to to taste. It smells like a barnyard but like like hay that's been pooped on like goat. Anyway, uh could be sheep. I haven't been around a farm enough to really distinguish goat from sheep uh aroma alone. And the um uh the way they make this is they take potatoes, these special, I think somewhat bitter mountain potatoes, they let them freeze overnight, then they thaw.
+
+[44:55] I think they do that a couple times. Then they throw it in a sack in uh in a well for like 30, 40 days, then they pull it out and then they let it dehydrate a couple of times with a couple more freeze thaw cycles. And I was really excited to try them. You just boil them and then like put cheese over them and and eat them like that. But God were they horrible.
+
+[45:13] They've gotta be they've got to taste better. If people like them there has to be a way to cook it so that it's good. Only the Japanese fermented soybean natto is it's the only ingredient I've ever come across that I can't imagine uh being used to good effect somehow. But uh Oh no no no no I I had the greatest NATO just a few days ago, actually. Yeah?
+
+[45:33] Uh you you haven't had the the fresh stuff, right? I I need to bring that next time we get together because there there's now a company here in Northern California who's making it. Uh everything we get in this country essentially comes from Japan and it's frozen and it's weeks old and it's not that good. But there's somebody here now making it fresh, and it's it's really wonderful. Okay, so it doesn't taste like coffee grounds and garbage.
+
+[45:58] Uh it does not. No. No. All right. So I will uh I will rescind my judgment.
+
+[46:05] Um I've never had that particular version of Chuno. I have had a version that I think is not uh sort of anaerobically fermented like that. Um you know, it's just been essentially uh freeze freeze dried over you know several repeated cycles and left in the sun. And that's it it's got a you know, distinctive kind of flavor, a kind of old um, you know, uh veteran potato flavor, but it doesn't have the off flavors that you're describing. So maybe they're just different versions of tuneo that uh and sounds as though that that wasn't just tuneo, there was some kind of prefix on the front of that.
+
+[46:45] Uh well I think it was just like white white chunio. I think it was just chunoblanco or something like that. Uh okay. But uh sounds like we need a chunio expert, huh? Yeah, yeah.
+
+[46:55] I think there are other other versions of it. Yeah, it's hard to do hard to do the research on that uh on the webs. Just not that much information out there. All right, so let's sell Priscilla. Oh yeah.
+
+[47:07] Oh, she's she's right across the river. Maybe next time uh maybe next time you're you're in, we can see whether she can uh produce it for us in a way that's you know, good. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[47:20] All right. Alright, so let's round out today with uh someone sent in a um uh Eddie Donnell sent in something from the daily, which is I guess a new iPad based news service, uh written um and I can't pronounce uh the person's name, so I'm not gonna mangle it. But it's called The Other White Meat and it's a story about uh Zymer's meats in Illinois uh and they're serving Lion and it's basically uh an expose on uh this company and the reason I guess it was sent to our blog is because uh y you know a year and a half ago or so we did a uh uh we did a piece on uh cooking exotic meats, right? So yak was uh delicious, um lion tastes like pork, beaver is delicious, um, you know, etc, etc. Raccoon we didn't like so much.
+
+[48:10] I didn't like bear, blah blah blah blah blah. Anyway, uh so um basically uh this guy, uh Zimers, if you call him, like he says it's all legit, which is why we ordered from him, but uh further research has shown that he um basically served uh it sold endangered animals, illegal endangered animals, tigers as lions, uh, knowingly and went to jail for it. And he says that he just copped a plea because that's what his lawyers told him to do. But if you call him up uh and you talk to him, his attitude isn't I try to be extremely vigilant to make sure this doesn't happen and something slip through. His attitude is much more like, um, well I don't do a DNA test on the animal and you know I you know I don't I'm not I don't want to get into this other guy's business who's handing me the animal so if he says it's lying, it's lion.
+
+[49:04] Right? Uh and when you're dealing with um things that are right on the edge of what are gonna get you death threats from people on the telephone, like it pays to I think be a little more vigilant. Um but you know uh I don't know. And so I guess uh uh Eddie I was aware of uh of that which is why we don't order from that supplier anymore. We don't have a supplier actually right now of of uh those kinds of meat.
+
+[49:31] Lion does in fact taste like pork but it is uh it's hard it's hard to cook actually because it uh even though it has very little connective tissue in it, it's extremely tough and I don't know why, uh even at fairly fairly low temperatures. But uh maybe we can round this out with an ethical discussion of eating things like lion meat. Um I don't I mean I don't know how you feel about this Harold, but um if the animal is not endangered, I don't understand why any one living creature has more dignity than any other living creature. Um you know uh we have certain feelings for animals that you know have served us well, like horses and dogs over the millennia, but pigs have also served us well, are incredibly smart and we slaughter 'em by the by the bushel. You know what I mean?
+
+[50:14] Um so I don't know what do you uh you have any thoughts on this kind of moral ethical question or is too deep to bring in you weren't expecting to get put on the spot with this kind of thing or well no I would I I guess I would agree with you in general that uh the the animals we already eat are uh uh they they have a lot going for them too and so unless we're gonna sit back and kind of re examine uh things from uh from scratch uh as long as we're a meat eating culture and these animals are not endangered, um then I think it's it's fair to uh to taste them as long as they're not, you know, uh that they haven't been obtained in in um in shady ways. Right. Although you you bring up an interesting point, which is the animals get something out of it too. And there's the kind of classic argument that uh domestic animals that are raised for food have you know somehow entered a bargain with us, you know, where we take care of them, we provide them shelter and forage uh in something that is approximating uh approximating you know something that's good for their well-being, and in exchange we kill them early, uh but maybe not necessarily earlier than they would have died anyway in the wild. And this is the argument for uh wh one of the arguments for why factory farming is is horrible, other than taste, which is the argument, you know, taste and and humanity, which is uh you know, the ones I argue it usually in that order, uh but against factory farming versus uh old style farming.
+
+[51:43] But you know, maybe there's also something to that in people's reaction in that typically these lions haven't been stored in the best kind of uh uh situations, they're usually like penned up and they're kept for various crazy reasons by various crazy people, and then uh you know, afterwards are basically uh executed for their uh for their fur, and then the meat becomes a byproduct which we then use. So, you know, maybe there's something there, I don't know. Yeah, no, it it is complicated. If if the animals are are being kept and slaughtered uh for other reasons, um then you know it's kind of like the argument for uh for use for using all of the animal when you slaughter a a pig or a a lamb. Right.
+
+[52:28] Uh the if the meat's gonna go to waste otherwise, then why not put it to use? Why not nourish someone with it? Right, exactly. Exactly. And it to me, you know, once you accept the fact that we as a meat eating culture are allowed to kill the animal, then you know you've you've entered into you've entered into a zone where you're allowed to kill the animal to eat it.
+
+[52:48] Right? And so um, you know, uh I don't and like I say before, I don't see a lion as a as a more august entity, you know, from a from a um you know a brain standpoint than a uh than a than a pig. Just because we grew up admiring lions and not pigs, uh doesn't really change that in my book. But um anyway. Uh Harold, thank you so much for being on.
+
+[53:18] Do you have any last uh things uh you want other than we're gonna eat the heck out of some mangoes in a in about a month? No, I'm really looking forward to that. And and was very glad for this. I mean you you uh texted me what uh ten hours ago. Yeah.
+
+[53:34] Yeah. Uh and it was a lot of fun. Oh any time. Oh, really? Well, you shouldn't say that, because we'll take you up on it.
+
+[53:41] We love having you on the show. No, it was great. A lot of fun. Thank you. Thank you, Harold, and thanks for listening to Cooking Issues.
+
+[53:54] Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening.
+
+[54:21] And I guess can't get it straight. Vicious Vicious. This is behind the scenes food news with Katie Kiefer. All of the trade papers are just buzzing with the information that Mark Zuckerberg, the founder of Facebook, has decided that he is only going to eat food that he himself has killed, as in proteins. So thus far he's um killed a goat, a pig, a chicken, and some fish.
+
+[54:52] But he's gonna start hunting, he says, so that he can, you know, basically be more mindful of what he is putting in his mouth and into his body. And um to quote a CNN Money article, he says, This year, my personal challenge is around being thankful for the food I have to eat. I think many people forget that a living being has to die for you to eat meat. So my goal revolves around not letting myself forget that and being thankful for what I have. This year I've basically become a vegetarian since the only meat I'm going to eat is from animals I've killed myself.
+
+[55:25] And thus far, this has been a good experience. I'm eating a lot healthier foods, and I've learned a lot more about sustainable farming and the raising of animals. This has been Behind the Scenes Food News with Katie Keefer. Here's a small clip. I will say that I tasted a lot of wines and I went to Bollinger.
+
+[55:59] And it was the special couvet, which is, and I'll explain the difference between that and Roter in a minute, but um the special couvet was the most three-dimensional wine that I'd had in my mouth up until that point, and it was actually pretty much one of the only ones of the day really spectacular. And it's made, I'll just say in a different style from Rotoru, because it it is a a set a certain portion of the blend every year, and their style is aged in barrels, and it gives it more of a toasty, fuller style. And it's a it's it's really you know, it's a big champagne. It's a masculine champagne. It is.
+
+[56:32] I I tried to get away stay away from that, but it's true. I mean James Bond, the whole thing. But it's a it's a it's a big wine, it's a great food wine. But then there was a lot of things. We'll tune in every Tuesday at 4 p.m.
+
+[56:44] live to Unfiltered, or check out the old episodes in our archives. Also make sure to subscribe to the podcast in iTunes. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Hi, I'm Steve Jenkins. I work for Fairway Markets in the New York area. And we're awfully proud to support Heritage Radio. And we care so much about everything that goes on out here at Robert's in their studio because they talk to people who are serious about food. And that's what we are at Fairways.
+
+[0:23] We're serious about food. We we just care very deeply about you as a as a customer and how you cook and what you cook with and how you entertain. And that's why we love to support Heritage Radio because it it's pretty much the same thing. It's wanting to find happiness through serious food and people who are serious about it and care about learning everything there is to learn about it. And that's that's we're kindred spirits.
+
+[0:52] If it's something worth having in your kitchen, you're gonna find it at Fairway. And if there's somebody worth talking to about food, you're gonna find them on Heritage Radio, and we will be supporting you guys for a long, long time. At Fairway, I'm your personal grocer, Steve Jenkins, Fairway Market. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues here on the Heritage Radio Network. I'm Dave Arnold, the host of Cooking Issues in the studio today at Robertas with Nastasha De Hammer Lopez coming to you live every Tuesday from 12 to 1245.
+
+[1:34] How are you doing today, Nastasha? I'm okay. Yeah? Mm-hmm. So it next week, am I in the studio or am I in Los Angeles next week?
+
+[1:40] Assuming I can get this all straightened out. I think you're in Los Angeles. I'm not here at all. Where are you? You're off the planet?
+
+[1:47] You're on like the last space shuttle mission. Where are you where are you going? I told you already I'm going to Rhode Island. Rhode Island, yeah. Well, uh, it's kind of not here.
+
+[1:54] Anyway, we might be doing the show from uh Los Angeles next week. Uh I'm not sure. We'll keep you posted by a tweet. Call in all of your cooking related questions, technical or not, two seven one eight four nine seven two one two eight. That's 718-497-2128.
+
+[2:10] Okay, so let's take uh some of the questions we got emailed. I got a question from Eric Zuwacky. Uh he says, I was sketching out an idea for a pork belly dish to replicate the feeling of being at a barbecue spot using the sense of smell. Uh thought of using one of the electric uh water pipes used for he says you know what, but it's for marijuana. It's like what they are is uh they're actually well, I'll finish the question.
+
+[2:31] Uh uh used for you know what, but instead of herbal medicine, i.e. marijuana, there would be applewood chips in the bowl, and then the smoke generator would be shot into an upside-down serving vessel, uh stemless wine glass, for instance, covering a dish so that when you open it at service, it would emit the smell of being in a place with a barbecue smoke pit. Alright, so what we're talking about here is uh back in the eighties, they developed these little miniature uh or 80s, yeah, 80s. They developed these little miniature electric vacuum cleaners that were powered with double-A batteries, and they were for geeks like myself. I own several, that uh so you could vacuum out your keyboards and and small parts and electronics and and crap like that.
+
+[3:07] So that and then some enterprise so there they were supposed to be vacuum machines, right? Vacuum cleaners, miniature. Uh, and some enterprising but extremely lazy pothead who couldn't take the trouble to inhale the smoke from their pipe because they were so they were so stoned that they couldn't lit literally could not inhale, uh, said, dude, I could put the batteries in this sucker backwards and it will run backwards, and instead of being a vacuum, it will uh suck the it will it will shoot smoke. And so what they did is they screwed a they burnt and screwed a bowl, you know, like a pot bowl, a little one, on the top of this vacuum cleaner, uh and then ran it backwards and shot marijuana smoke out of the out of the pipe, right? So that's where we were from, you know, I don't know, sometime in the 90s probably, up until the very early 2000s, uh, when a group of chefs started using them as smokers, right?
+
+[3:59] So the most famous uh chef that I know that uses it and used it fairly early was Juan Roca. I saw them do a presentation at Madrid Fusion, I believe in 2005 or 4 or something like that. Uh and they famously took these uh took these things and would uh do basically what you're saying, uh Eric, which is they would they would inject smoke under a cloche, under like you know, a serving dish, and then the dish would be completely obscured, and then when you lifted the the dish up, it would the smoke would go out, and you'd have this sensation of smoke and a really awesome visual effect and a really good kind of going from not seeing to seeing with the cloch only instead of being metal it being glass. So it's very famous presentation, works extremely well. I've seen it demonstrated a couple times.
+
+[4:41] I've never eaten it. Uh Harold McGee and Wiley have both had it and they said it was a good dish. Another thing that these guys did was they took a uh like a a little glass, almost like a uh looks like a gravy boat, but with a flat top, and they sealed plastic around it, uh and then they uh poked a little hole in it, and they put the smoke into that with a little with a little hole, and then every time your spoon hit the dish, it would uh put send up a little smoke ring. Uh that was also a really good presentation, really cool. Um and people also use it for smoking things, like you'd wrap something inside of let's say uh uh like a bowl or a Tammy with with uh plastic wrap, inject the smoke and let it sit.
+
+[5:19] Personally, I don't think that it has the same effect as actual smoking because the smoke is static, you're not constantly generating it, and after a while the smoke's gonna settle out. I just I don't think it's the same as actual smoking. The other problem is the the pothead uh vacuum cleaners are tend to be built not that well, but they're um and they tend to burn out and there's there's kind of problems with it melting and getting overly hot. Philip Preston at uh PolyScience makes one that's kind of more robo and built for cooking. I don't know what he called it, he calls it the smoking gun.
+
+[5:48] So he sells one that's kind of meant to stand up to kitchenware. The the one that I went to uh I don't know what what the kids call them nowadays, we call them a head shop, right? Where you go and you buy pot paraphernalia, you know, but you have to pretend that you're using it for tobacco, otherwise they won't sell it to you. If you say, I need something to use with marijuana, but I can't say that dude in the man, you know what I mean? But if you tell them that, you know, um I'm gonna smoke tobacco in this thing, uh, then they can sell it to you.
+
+[6:10] Anyways, so like um you go to those, you buy one, but don't expect those ones to last too long. They they leak and uh they they melt because they're you know, whatever, they're not they're not high quality, as my son would say. They're they're low qual low quality products. Uh anyway, so I I hope that helps. Um okay.
+
+[6:27] Uh Ryan Santos wrote in and he says he's looking for some guidance in cooking pork blade steaks sous-vide. They're crazy marbled fatty. I was thinking of trying more of a pork belly type approach than a pork chop steak kind of approach. Any insight would be appreciated. Well, I've never actually cooked uh so basically what the blade steak is.
+
+[6:45] I mean, if I'm right about this, which I assume I am, is it's basically a steak cut from the pork shoulder, not the picnic shoulder, but basically the front shoulder of the pig and has a little bit of the blade uh the you know blade bone in it. Um and I have cooked whole pork shoulder before, and it works quite well. Um, but you know, I've never cooked uh just a blade steak that way. Uh the the problem with any of these kinds of uh cooking when you're doing sous vide or low temperature for a long time is it contains lots of different muscles, and it's very hard to get all the muscles perfect at the same time because if there's a muscle that has less connective tissue in it, then that muscle is going to lose its texture and get kind of a little mushy by the time the rest of the muscles are gonna get uh are gonna get done. And you have that same problem with pork belly as well.
+
+[7:29] Uh now with pork shoulder, I don't think you're gonna have to go nearly as long as you would have to go for uh a pork belly, right? So pork shoulder, you know, you can test and see how you like it. I would choose a relatively low temperature, like between I mean it depends on how you like your pork, between 58 and 60 Celsius, which is you know 140 and below. Although the pork council still believes that you can cook pork to 160 degrees Fahrenheit and have it be juicy. Do you think that's even possible, Nastash?
+
+[7:56] Is that even it's not it's like physically impossible, right? Yes. I mean like in unless you slather it with some sort of external juice, it's not gonna have its its own juice. But anyway, so uh I would cook it between uh I would cook it between like 138 and 140 uh Fahrenheit, and you you know try cooking it for see whether or not 12 hours is enough actually, whether it's whether or if that's too chewy, then try it for a day, and if that's too chewy, try it for two. I would not go over two days.
+
+[8:25] Honestly, I would probably go for like 24 hours. I like a little texture in my meat, though. I don't want it like too kind of mushy, and I'm pretty sure that some of the muscles in that steak are gonna turn kind of fibry mushy. So there's there's a kind of when you overcook something low temperature, it doesn't have the same characteristics as overcooked uh meat in general. Overcooked low temperature meat doesn't go dry, right?
+
+[8:46] It goes, what I way I say is kind of like it just loses its texture and turns mushy. So what'll happen is when you bite into it, it all like it'll be uh the first bite will explode kind of with with juice, but then as you keep chewing, it'll taste almost like little fibers like a paste mush in your in your mouth. You've had it before, Nastash, it's an accurate description. And it and it and it turns to kind of like just you know, kind of paste in your mouth. Unplu to me, unpleasant.
+
+[9:12] Some people actually don't mind it, but to me it's like a it's a huge, it's a huge problem. So that's what overcooking means in low temperature kind of a sous-vide uh environment. Um but tell us how tell us how it works out because uh I'm interested. I've never I've never done it before. It looks like a very inexpensive cut of meat.
+
+[9:31] Another thing I would do is I would cook it in a vacuum. I wouldn't I would suck a kind of a medium kind of a vacuum one, I wouldn't go too hard. I would then take this thing, I would cook it all the way through to whatever tenderness you want, then I would let it cool down, a hundred percent cool down, and then put a righteous hard sear on it on the outside, because you'd want I think you want to um you want to basically have it taste kind of traditional, probably, have a look a real nice crust on the outside and be soft in the inside, I think would be the way to go. Also, some tests that we've run recently, uh don't salt the meat beforehand. Here this is kind of obvious, and I don't know why I never uh thought of it before.
+
+[10:08] But uh we we were running a bunch of tests where and typically when if I if I'm gonna do what's called direct serve where I'm gonna cook it and then serve it right after it's right after it's been cooked, I will salt the meat before I sear it and then put it in the bag and then cook it. Um problem is is that if you're storing the meat for a long time overnight or the next day, the meat's gonna get cured and it's gonna lose some of its juiciness, it's gonna get firmer like cured meat. Duh. So the basic rule is if you're going to keep something for a long time, uh the exception is braises that you're gonna cook for a long time, really braise the meat out, in which case you can salt it beforehand because it needs to be seasoned throughout. But if you're gonna take a piece of meat and serve it like a steak, you don't want to uh salt your meat before you serve it, all right?
+
+[10:51] Um and we'll talk about that in a minute, because apparently we have a caller. Caller, you were on the air. Hey Dave, how's everything going? Going all right. I'm glad to hear that.
+
+[10:59] I got a you know, a quick question. I saw, you know, I've been getting more into fish, and I saw that you had a little thing on ikajime, I believe it's called. Right. And it kind of really fascinated me, but I don't fully understand it. How could kind of destroy it seems like what you destroy the the spine and something it makes the fish taste better?
+
+[11:16] All right, are you uh are you do you fish? Uh I don't fish. I just you know, I'm just now getting into seafood a little bit more. All right. This is a very this is very glad you asked this question because I just shot something with uh Dave Chang last week on Ikojima.
+
+[11:30] I hadn't done ikajime work for a while, and then I just came back and uh did some just this week. So this is very, very good question. So um Ikajime is basically just the entire range of Japanese fish killing techniques. And um it there's a whole range of them, but they're uh they they basically accomplish two things. One, they are meant to bleed out the fish properly, right?
+
+[11:51] Because Japanese fish, they all about getting the blood out out of the fish. And the second aspect of it is um preserving or enhancing the texture of the fish based on how it's killed. Okay. So there's there's two there's there's the the spinal cord thing is one aspect of Ikijime called Shinke Nuki. So I'll just run you through all of the techniques.
+
+[12:11] So there's a technique that we haven't experimented with uh up until now, but it seems like a very good technique, and so I'm gonna do it from from now on. They make a little curved uh knife, right? And so the first thing you do is you take the live fish and you in you impale its head with this curved knife and you destroy the brain, right? And and so what that does, right? Normally what I would do instead of doing that is uh just sever the spine, okay, with a knife.
+
+[12:37] Uh uh up right under the gill flap, sever the spine. And what that'll do is disconnect the brain from the rest of the muscles so that the brain's no longer controlling the muscles. Two things though, one, it takes a uh you it takes a little bit to get the knife in there, and also it takes a lot of force to accurately break the uh spinal cord there, so you might miss, in which case you're gonna cause stress to the muscles. The fish has more of a chance to flop around because you're uh doing more adjustment while you're doing that, and so there's more chance that you're gonna drop the fish, which causes stress to the fish and to the muscles. So, my new theory, and also when you sever the spinal cord that way, the brain is still alive in the fish.
+
+[13:14] And so if you're gonna serve the head, there might be some detrimental effect on the on the uh taste of the head, although I don't know this, I haven't studied that. Uh but in general, I think just for humanitarian reasons and also for ease and speed of killing, which equals better flesh reasons. The best thing to do is to take this knife or an ice pick or whatever, go into the brain right you know above and behind the eye, and basically take its brain out, right? Now the brain's gone. Um then I would cut the spinal cord at the top and the bottom.
+
+[13:43] When you sever the spinal cord near the tail and near the front, what you're doing is first of all, cutting all of the uh you're cutting the connection from the brain to the spinal cords. Now the spinal cord is isolated from the from the brain, right? And that's good for reasons I'll tell you in a minute. But two, you're severing the blood vessels that run um down along the bottom of the spine, and what that allows you to do is really bleed this sucker out. So if you cut just in the front, that's the equivalent of what's called gill cutting, that's what we do kind of traditionally.
+
+[14:11] But if you cut in the front and the back, that basically the fish can pump the blood out of its body more efficiently. And eventually we're going to stick it in water, like salted ice water, and then it's going to pump out and pump clean water into its system, and you're going to get a really nice pure bled-out fish, which is what the Japanese really like. They don't like that that taste of what they would call the chiai line, which is that blood line that runs along like on a fish that you see the dark stripe in like a tuna. They would prefer like the like the lighter flavor of the thing that's been totally bled out, right? So that's the that's the basically the bleeding technique.
+
+[14:42] Now the the next technique, the further technique, is to then take a needle, thin needle, like a wire, and run it up the spinal cord, right? So not in the center of the spinal cord, but at the bottom of the spine is the are the blood vessels, and at the top of the spine are it is this is basically where the spinal cord is running. And it's a straight shot all the way up. And so you stick a needle through the spine and it basically wipes out the spine. And that's kind of the interesting technique that because we can kind of intuitively understand what's going on with all of those first steps, right?
+
+[15:13] With the bleeding, uh, and you know, it those all kind of make sense. It's it's this taking out the spinal cord with the needle is the thing that is kind of weird, and we don't we like why would you do that? The answer is is because the spinal cord, even though the brain is not sending messages to the spinal cord, the spinal cord has its own way of sending out messages to the muscles. There's things called central pattern generators that are in the spinal cord itself, telling the muscles to basically to swim, right? And they don't swim because they're no longer coordinated by the brain, but they're sending impulses to the muscles, causing those muscles to contract.
+
+[15:49] Then when the muscles are are are have these impulses going to them to contract, um, what happens is they lose their energy quicker. The ATP, which is the which is your energy source in fish muscles and your muscles and my muscles. So by depleting the ATP, right, as ATP is depleted and the energy stores in the muscles are depleted, that's what causes the muscles to go into rigor mortise. Because rigor mortise basically you know that you need energy to contract your muscles. You also need energy in the form of ATP to release your muscles.
+
+[16:19] So as you lose ATP in a dead muscle, they just ratchet tighter and tighter and tighter and tighter, and they can't unratch it, they can't open up. So the it turns out that the faster you go into rigor mortise, the faster you deplete your energy, the harder the rigor mortise is. And fish muscle is strong enough to do damage to itself with rigor mortise. So when it comes out of rigor mortise, right, if you haven't shoved the needle up the spine, then your fish turns softer. It's less firm, right?
+
+[16:48] So when you put the needle in the spine, what you're doing is preserving the texture of the fish. You're going to get less gaping in the in the in the muscles, less dripping, less weeping, uh, and it's just firmer. The weird thing about ecogimi, and some Western chefs kind of can't wrap their heads around it, is that it takes longer for the fish to be in prime uh prime condition after you do ikijime. Right when you do ekajimia, if you eat any fresh fish that was just killed, it's uh it's gonna taste kind of almost crunchy, you know, almost like crunchy like uh like giant clam sushi, kind of crunchy, right? Uh and then um, or like you know, geoduck or gooey duck rather, a clam, that kind of crunchy.
+
+[17:22] And then it you have to let it age. And a western fish, one that hasn't done had the needle up the spine, is going to come out of rigor faster. And so for a small window, you might prefer it. But when you taste it, you can tell that uh that it has kind of a mushiness that's come from the this hard rigor that isn't in the fish that has had the needle gone up the spine. This is especially true of fish that ha do a lot of swimming, hard swimming.
+
+[17:48] So like stripers, tunas, uh, you know, uh any any kind of bass, any hard swimming thing, but also things like fluke, you can make a difference. There's some evidence I haven't tested. Every fish that I've tested tastes better with uh with the needle up the spine. But um there's some evidence that certain fish like place, for instance, don't uh benefit from the from the spine, but I haven't I have never tested a fish that didn't benefit. And I've tested blackfish, stripers, hybrid bass, um uh what else?
+
+[18:18] Uh fluke, uh a bunch. You know what I mean? And so I've never had a fish that didn't benefit. Is this making more sense now? We still is he off the air.
+
+[18:30] Did I talk him off the air? I think I talked him off. I took like ATT cut his cut his phone off by the time I I got anyway. So um there like the benefit is huge. The problem is is that it's big caller.
+
+[18:42] Well new caller. Oh, we have a new collar, okay. Well, maybe I'll talk more about Ike Jimmy in a minute because it's a fascinating subject. But we have a new caller, caller, you're on the air. Hi, Dave.
+
+[18:51] This is Andy from Chicago. Hey, how you doing? Good. How are you guys today? I'm doing well, doing well.
+
+[18:55] I didn't get down to Chicago this year for the NRA. I missed it. How was it? Did you go to the I did not go? I'm not in the industry myself, so I I missed it.
+
+[19:03] I I heard it was pretty big though. Yeah, I love going to Chicago because I really like uh I really like eating in Chicago. It's a great eating town, so and I like walking around in Chicago, so I'm sorry I missed it. Anyway, yeah, great town. I'm I'm actually really excited.
+
+[19:14] I got reservations to a Linia in August, so I'm pretty pumped about that. Oh, great restaurant. You ever been there before? I haven't. It'll be my first time.
+
+[19:21] But uh, you know, Grant's been getting all that press recently, and uh I saw it on Bizarre Food recently too, so pretty excited. Yeah, been reading a lot about it. Yeah, get get get ready because like if you get the full tasting and the and the wine, you're there for hours and they're gonna roll you out in a barrel. You know what I mean? You're gonna be like I'm yeah.
+
+[19:38] Yeah, I'm pretty excited about it. We're we're doing all you know, the full shebang, so you have an early reservation? Uh I think it might be like a 6 30 or something like that. Yeah, I don't remember. Yeah, no, uh well, I I once did that thing at like 9 30 at night uh and had the full tasting, and the entire kitchen wanted to Ikajima me stick a knife in my head because they we weren't out of there until like 2 30 in the morning, anyway.
+
+[20:05] Wow, wow. Yeah, we're we're definitely on the earlier side, so but uh I think I might have to take the day off from the next day. Yeah, recover. Yeah. Yeah, exactly.
+
+[20:14] Yeah. So what's your question? Uh my question about curing salts. I'm doing uh prosciutto style ham in my attic right now, and uh when I got the ham last December, I went over to the spice house in Chicago, which is a great spice house. They only had one type of curing salt.
+
+[20:28] I forget which it was, but uh the guy there said that the other kind, which is essentially saltpeter, was illegal to sell in the United States, which I didn't think was true. But uh, you know, so I got the I got the one he had, and uh, you know, I've just I'm just wondering what what's the difference between the nitrate and the nitrite? Which one is saltpeter and and why would he have claimed it was illegal in the United States or some somehow not able to be sold? Uh yeah, well he's wrong kind of on both counts. You uh are lucky to live near a place called Butcher Packer.
+
+[21:01] If you're going to get stuff for curing, you should deal with the guys at Butcher Packer. Uh they're really good, and they will sell to you, not just to uh kind of industry types, and they have all the all the different things. There's there's two there's a bunch of different things you can buy right the two curing salts that they're sold are either called instacure one or instacure two or Prague Powder one or Prague Powder 2 and there's another thing you can buy called Morton's tender quick right most of them the instacure one and the Prague one and the and the tender quick have as their base sodium nitrite right um saltpeter like is an old form that of nitrates that can be used but you know sodium nitrate right is not the same as like what they would say is saltpeter straight saltpeter sodium nitrate is not illegal right the the fact of the matter is you're only supposed to use nitrate right on things like country hams or like prosciutto if well you know in Italy they don't use nitrates at all in in the in the in the prosciutto you know uh prosciutto department things like that but um in an American country ham and there are some American country ham people that don't use nitrates either right but the the deal is that n think of nitrate right which is like the instacure two right think of nit think of nitrate as kind of time release nitrite because what happens is is that you rub the cure into the surface of the meat and the nitrite right gets used up fairly quickly as it goes through turns to NO does its curing thing right the nitrate converts to nitrite right the nitrate then takes longer to convert to nitrite which then converts to you know the NO which does it which does its thing. So nitrates are long acting nitrites. And and they're only used on whole muscle cut, long cured items like country ham.
+
+[22:58] Right. So you never use a nitrate on like a bacon or on anything like that because those are usually pumped or even if they're not pumped, they don't need to cure that long. Does that make sense? Yeah. Yeah, definitely.
+
+[23:09] So if I went with the the sort of more quick release version, uh you know, uh obviously there I would I would imagine there's slightly more risk of you know botulism or something like that, but you know, as long as the rest of it's done properly and cured properly it should be okay, right? Well you're you're they're not really gonna get um you know watch someone's gonna come and say that I'm wrong. But you're not really gonna get botulism in something like a a ham. You're gonna get you're gonna get botulism in something like a sausage or like a sausage where it's mixed together. First of all, like hams are sufficiently dried and sufficiently salted supposedly to get rid of any risk of botulism right.
+
+[23:49] The nitr the nitrites uh in the uh the nitrates in the nitrites do a couple of things. They ensure that you're gonna get that cured color right that cured color will come just from long aging right which is why you don't need it for prosciutta de parma or for American country hams if you age it long enough. But if you have a shorter aged ham, if you've ever seen a a shorter aged ham when you cut it the parts of the area will be kind of gray and they were undercured, right? Uh and so you can you can see that that kind of thing happening but you're still not going to get botulism because the inside of the meat unless you hit it with a knife is relatively sterile, right? Yep and plus you know the whole thing are so heavily salted and you know it should be okay.
+
+[24:28] If it's done right, yeah. So it's it's if it's in your attic, right, the ham, then uh assuming that your attic is not really uh air conditioned, right, during the summer, if it gets hot, does it get hot? It gets I mean, we have an AC, but it still stays relatively warm up there. Like what? Like, you know, probably eighty, something like that.
+
+[24:49] Okay. So you're getting close to American country ham temperatures. I mean, one of the primary differences between uh prosciutto and uh, you know, Italian style prosciutto and an American style right is the temperature and the humidity. So an American ham is gonna be done in a f in a fairly high humidity, fairly high temperature environment. Think Virginia in the summertime.
+
+[25:09] Right. You know what I mean? Or or think and and by the way, just because you don't smoke it doesn't mean that it's not an American style because many American hams are not smoked, right? Uh you know, plenty of them. Uh so you know, that's kind of just a a choice that that that people make.
+
+[25:24] How old is it right now? Uh right now it's about six months, six and uh seven months, something right around there. I got it in late December and it started hanging in in like early January basically. Nice. Is it hanging upside down or is the hock pointed down or is the hot pointed up?
+
+[25:39] No, it's hock up in a prosciutto style. And I I weighted it as I salted it so it's got that nice flat, you know, prosciutto uh look to it, but it's uh yeah, hawk up. Right. You might want to um lard over the face of the meat at this point. Done.
+
+[25:54] Uh okay. How long ago do you do that? I did it pretty early on actually. Right. I mean you want to let some of the moisture come out of it beforehand, but then when you lard over the face, um you're now you're stopping a lot of the moisture from leaving on that side.
+
+[26:09] And that's one of the things that Americans don't do that I wish they did do because the face side of the meat gets too dry. Um but uh but you didn't debone it yet though, right? Bone's still in? No, bone's still in, yeah. Alright, cool.
+
+[26:21] Um yeah, so you how long you you're gonna hang it, like a year or longer? I'm thinking like a year, yeah. I'll probably dig into you know, I might try it in in December, maybe maybe January. I actually did a did another one before the just like a month before this one that uh was skin off and uh you know, more like a twelve pound like bone or uh I don't know, femur end ham, you know that I got from a guy. So that one's gonna cure more like six or eight months, I think.
+
+[26:47] Uh I larded over that one too, because there was basically, you know, no skin on it. Some fat still, but I put a nice coating of lard over that one. So that one I'll probably break into in the next month or so. But this one I'm gonna wait till at least two thousand twelve. Right, yeah.
+
+[26:59] And you know the ice pick trick, right? Shove an ice pick into it to smell it, see how you're doing. Yeah, yeah. I mean, the you know, cured aroma, that's kind of you know, obviously it takes practice, but uh I'm just looking for a cured hammy hammy aroma, right? Yeah, and you can search also to make sure that you don't have like a taint along the bone line or anything like that.
+
+[27:17] By the way, I've had many hams that have like a taint, like a little bit of like a an uncured part that along the bone and it doesn't affect the rest of your ham. Sure you already know this if you've already uh if you already done this. Uh uh by the way, a good place to look uh for a country ham curing, there's a guy named Norman Marriott who's a uh who's ex uh he's emeritus at uh I think Virginia Tech and he has a good online PDF on ham curing uh in a bag in case you want to try like total American style some point, bag curing, which is actually kind of uh kind of interesting. Maybe do an American style for your next one. Definitely.
+
+[27:52] How much did this guy weigh before you cured him, the big one? It was right about 25 pounds, I believe. Yeah. Nice. Twenty five pounds.
+
+[27:58] Nice. And not good it was a good one. It was a good uh good butcher from Central Illinois, he supplies a lot of the local Chicago restaurants. Uh and uh the other one is the other one I got was from this great Amish farmer in central Indiana where I spent a lot of time. Uh real, you know, purely pastured, uh real real natural pork.
+
+[28:16] So I'm excited for both of them. They should be pretty tasty. Nice. Sounds sounds like it's gonna be delicious. I certainly hope so.
+
+[28:21] I'm I'm waiting for ready for it, man. I want it to be I want it to be 2012 right now. Yeah, wait waiting's the hard part. That's why you gotta keep making them so you never have to wait to have your next one. Yeah.
+
+[28:30] Yeah. Next December, once the temperatures drop a little bit, I'm I'm definitely getting on another one. So beautiful. All right. Well, thanks for calling.
+
+[28:39] You have like a favorite country ham, you know, maker who you buy from regularly, or who who would you recommend if I were to get one? If I were to buy an American country ham, you think would be a good place to start. Alright, well, there's a there's a couple of really good ones. The problem is you gotta make sure you get the good ones from them, which means you can't you have to call physically call and ask like how the particular ham is. So that though like my go-to hams are I like uh S.
+
+[29:00] Wallace Edwards, right? He has one he has one that's now called a Suriano, which I I don't enjoy the name because I hate like pretending that it's like some sort of uh Spanish thing. But he is currently making those things with Patrick here from Heritage Food, his Heritage Pork. They're unbelievably marbled and they're they're very well made. I really like those.
+
+[29:17] They're kind of smoked in a Virginia Tidewater style. And I think he puts pepper on I think they smoke even the Seriano ones, but they're delicious. He might make an unsmoked one. I really like uh Nancy Mahaffey at Colonel Newsom's over in Kentucky. Uh, you know, their recipe goes back a long way.
+
+[29:31] I've heard that she's now experimenting with uh with some heritage pork. In fact, I tasted some. It's delicious. Her ham is hung in an area that has kind of like a lot of like funky molds. It's kind of like she's near a swamp, and her hams have a very faint wisp of kind of like a blue cheese note that I really really enjoy.
+
+[29:51] But yet you have to call her. She only cures once a year in the in the in the in the wintertime. And uh she sells this stuff out, so you gotta make sure sometimes she has some older ones that are held over from last year. You can call her and she will hold them for you. Uh she's great.
+
+[30:05] Uh I like uh Alan Benton makes uh some good hams. I haven't had his in a while, Benton's Country Ham. Um closer to you. Burgers Smokehouse makes uh uh like of some commodity hams, right? But they also make a like kind of a their heritage ham, which is 12 months old.
+
+[30:22] I believe it's called like attic age, but you have to call because they make some hams for Walmart, you know what I mean? And then they make and then they make some that are you know that are real that are old. Yeah, real. So it's all about kind of it's all about with with these with these companies like calling them up and and just talking with them on the phone and making sure that you're getting because they think that you don't want it, you know what I mean? Like they think that you want a four-month-old commodity ham.
+
+[30:47] And because that's what people have been asking for, because people have been searching for based on price, and they've been they want a kind of a less salty taste, and you're like, listen, I want you know, I want funky old, salty, yeah. Yeah. So burgers one's not super funky and it's not smoked, uh, their attic one. It's it's a milder kind of a ham. I think the the S.
+
+[31:06] Wallace Edwards depends on which kind of aging room he's in, but this new marble stuff is great. Uh Nancy Mahaffey stuff, really good. Alan Benton stuff. I don't know if Alan Benton is currently doing anything with uh new like the the heritage breeds. The interesting the problem with American country hams isn't that we don't have the technical expertise to make the stuff because we do.
+
+[31:24] It's that um it's that our pork quality had been lacking for many years in terms of uh marbling and also the older you the older an animal is when it's slaughtered, and the higher the slaughter weight of the animal, depending on the genetics, obviously, but for a given animal. The enzyme uh characteristics of the meat change as the animal ages, and they change more favorably towards making country ham. So the older the meat is that's slaughtered, not only the more flavorful will it be, but the better it will age. So, you know, these older, bigger hams not only age better because they're physically larger and they tend to physically have more fat, which protects them so they can age more, but also uh their enzyme makeup and their initial flavor uh profile is better. And so as we start realizing this, and as like some of the top-notch American country ham producers start buying better pork, I think you're gonna see us competing with some of the top uh European people kind of more head-to-head.
+
+[32:19] I mean, I I like it anyway. I prefer American country ham's taste profile because it's aged at a higher tent. But you know, like that that's kind of the last step we need to get to. Is it oh, also Finchville Farms, another really good one. They're in Kentucky.
+
+[32:31] So they're really good. Finchville Farms. Yeah. And Finchville Farms is interesting. They also uh, you know, basically I think they cure like one one one or two times a year.
+
+[32:41] They do a natural kind of cure. They're also nitrate-free, as is new uh newsomes, right? So you should taste those two side by side, because one's smoked and one's not, and they're both Kentucky, but they're aged in very different environments in Kentucky. Uh they make they make a really good they make a really good product as well. Cool.
+
+[32:59] I'm excited, man. Yeah, I do want to buy one of the little comparisons. Yeah. Thanks for all the info, Dave. No problem.
+
+[33:06] Remember though, to call those guys before you buy it, so you know you're getting the right one. Yeah. All right, cool. Yep. All right, thanks a lot.
+
+[33:12] So let's go to our first commercial break. Call in all of your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 4997. 7184972128. When I look out into your faces, you know what I see?
+
+[33:21] I see a little bit of ailbows in each and every one of you out there. Let me tell you. Oh man, what I want to say. Elvis is everywhere, man! He's in everything.
+
+[33:50] He's in everybody. Elvis is in your jeans. He's in your cheeseburgers. Elvis is in nutty buddies. Elvis is in your mom.
+
+[34:02] He's in everybody. He's in the young, the old, the bat, the skinny, the white, the black, the brown, and the blue people got Elvis in them, too. Elvis is in everybody out there. The following is a public service announcement from Heritage Radio Network. Tune in to Greenhorn Radio, hosted by Seven Von Scharner Fleming every Thursday at 2 p.m.
+
+[34:25] Greenhorn Radio is radio for young farmers by young farmers. Michael James. Helmed by acclaimed activist, farmer, and documentarian Severin Fleming. Greenhorn Radio is a weekly phone interview session surveying America's cutting edge under 40 farmers. Again, that's every Thursday at 2 p.m.
+
+[34:41] on the Heritage Radio Network. Hello and welcome back to Cooking Issues. Call all of your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. So how cool is that?
+
+[34:55] We got a call in that that we uh let us uh pump not only Heritage Meats, but also one of our sponsors, that's Wells Edwards. That's great. Yeah, nice. Advertising him. Yeah, and and uh I also happen to believe in those products.
+
+[35:08] Thank God. So, you know, it's a it's a problem. Remember the time we had a sponsorship. We don't read sponsorships. Yeah, the reason like other shows, like people will read sponsorship, uh the sponsorships, you know, they but Jack, our intrepid engineer, has to record ours ahead of time because no one ever knows what the hell I'm gonna say about a particular sponsor because if I think that the thing is crap, or if I don't understand why what it's you know, selling provision is I find it difficult to kind of sell it, right?
+
+[35:39] You're not the only one. I do it across the board now. Really? Because there was a bunch of us like that? Yeah, you know.
+
+[35:44] Yeah. But play it safe. Yeah, but S. Wells Edwards and you know, our parent Heritage Foods USA are two things I can I can kind of stand behind without uh qualification. Anyway.
+
+[35:54] Um where were we talking about before? Talking about Ike J May? Mm-hmm. All right. What was I saying?
+
+[36:00] Do you remember? I don't. You were explaining the entire process. And then you were talking about the Chang thing. Yeah.
+
+[36:05] So oh my god. So I don't know how much I'm allowed to say. You know, Chang has this new TV show. Uh it's but it's not a TV show. It's uh it's an iPad application, and you you get to watch a little bit of it for free, and then you have to buy the rest of it, and it's being done by uh Anthony Bourdain's um production company, which uh you know, anyway, so uh he had me in to do uh this segment.
+
+[36:27] So I don't know how much I'm allowed to say about it because you know you're gonna have to see the iPad and stuff, but I'll say this. Before this week, I had never had real like line line caught right on the boat striped bass that had been done Ikajime with the spike through the head and with the with the needle through the spine. And we did them this time. They were huge. They were like, you know, 40 inches, um and they were caught right off right off Montauk, right on a boat, eKG made right on the boat.
+
+[36:56] We had Western style, which means Montauk style. So Montauk style is you'll you'll gill you'll cut the gill so it bleeds to death and then throw it directly onto ice and let it bleed out, right? So that's one step above just taking the fish and throwing it into uh into your ice well and letting it die by asphyxiation, which is how a lot of people do it. Because a lot of people they think that it's kind of barbaric to do all these things to the fish when you get them out, like cut their gills and stuff. But what it really is is they just don't have the cojones to dispatch the fish when it comes when they take it out of the water, and they'd rather have the thing suffocate to death in um you know in a box where they can't see it.
+
+[37:33] You know what I mean? Which to me, so in other words, like all of these things where you know you people say you're doing something kind of inhumane by you know sticking a knife in its head and then cutting uh the spine at the gills and cutting the spine at the tail. First of all, like these things are done to kill the fish as quickly as possible, right? Which is the most humane thing to do instead of letting it suffocate, right? Uh secondly, if you are going to kill, and this is you know something I you know, I said when we were shooting, I believe, is if you were going to kill an animal to eat it, right?
+
+[38:03] You are obligated to one try to reduce its suffering as much as possible while you're while you're killing it, which has the added benefit that it makes it taste better. The killing an animal in uh a way that is um the least trauma to the animal makes the best tasting animal. Um so you're obligated to be as humane as possible, and you're also obligated to make the animal taste as good as you possibly can, right? I mean, don't you think if you're gonna kill something, it's you should at least taste it. That's why like I tell my kids, you know, don't waste meat.
+
+[38:40] My kids are like, uh, Daddy, I have to eat this meat. I'm like, yes, because a cow died for it. I'm like, yes. You know what I mean? It's like you you shouldn't really waste the stuff, and you should you shouldn't really uh you should treat it well, you shouldn't overcook it.
+
+[38:52] You should you know you're obligated not to overcook it, you're obligated not to mess it up, you're obligated not to uh, you know, I think waste a lot when you when you when you eat this. So anyway, so these these techniques, which some people find kind of barbaric. In fact, my stepfather, who's a surf caster, he's in the Cape right now. He caught the biggest monster fish I've ever seen someone catch surf casting uh for stripers in the Cape. The thing was I don't know how the hell long it was.
+
+[39:18] It was like like 46, 48 inches, it's crazy, it was over four feet long, I think. It was huge. Anyways, so he didn't he didn't uh ek me it. One because I haven't shown him how, but he's like, My fish don't like things shoved up their butts. I'm like, listen, you know, if you're killing it anyway, you might as well have it be perfect by shoving it.
+
+[39:36] It's not up your it's not up the butt anyway. Anyway, uh, you know, so even though it looks weird, he's afraid to do it because he thinks the other surf casters are gonna think that he's a lunatic and gonna try and and come over and like you know, get mad at him for torturing the fish, but in fact you're doing the fish a favor by killing it quickly, and then you're doing yourself a favor and honoring the fish by having the flesh be as perfect as it can be. So we tasted these different ones, and the Western style fish was definitely not as good as uh you know the Montauk style, all props to Montauk, but Montauk's in Long Island for anyone listening who doesn't know the kind of this coast. Um and it's at the tip, it's where Jaws was, you know, supposedly from. But they have lots of fishing boats off Montauk.
+
+[40:14] It's beautiful. Anyway, uh so it you're doing good honor to the fish by do doing it that way. The one oh I know what I was talking about also. Western chefs need to kind of get their wrap their heads around the fact that the freshest fish isn't necessarily the best fish. So there's a Chinese technique where they prize freshness above all else.
+
+[40:34] And Nastasha and I saw a demonstration of this once where you literally wrap the f uh live fish's head in towels and then uh cut the muscles of the fish so it can't move anymore and then deep fry the body while the head's still alive. Now I don't practice this, so to please don't write in or call in. Because remember that demo we saw? Yeah. Remember, I guess on the phone the whole time, like planning a party in in Chinese.
+
+[40:57] Remember? I don't remember that aspect of it. Um but uh I do remember the demonstration. Uh I did taste it. Uh I don't think that I don't think it really like the idea is that it's supposed to be the life of the fish is still there, and so you're supposed to like it's that's promote freshness or whatever.
+
+[41:13] I don't think that it benefits uh the the fish really from a taste standpoint. So now now, like a huge chunk of like uh you know Chinese, you know, culturally Chinese people are gonna get mad at me for this, but I don't think it's and it's kind of like it's kind of it's it's kind of horrible. Well, you know, it's virtuoso technique, you know, but I think it's kind of horrible thing to do. I wouldn't advocate doing it. What about you?
+
+[41:35] You felt bad. You didn't want to I don't think I ate it. You didn't eat it? I don't think so. I ate it, but it you know, it's like that's a bizarre technique.
+
+[41:42] So anyway, so like there's a there's a whole section of people uh you know i uh around the world who believe that the freshest fish is the best fish, and so preferably with the head still alive while you're eating the body, which that's just perverse, right? Like if it tasted really great, I would say, well, I don't know, maybe, but I don't really think it tastes that that I don't think it was that good either. But anyway, um but the fact of the matter is that you really most of the time want to wait for the fish to go through rigor mortis before you eat it. So f the freshest fish isn't necessarily the best fish. It's the fish that is at the right time.
+
+[42:14] Now it is true that once fish reaches its peak, it doesn't stay in peak condition very long. So once it reaches its peak, you want to eat it very quickly. But it's like it the fact of the matter is is that peak isn't the moment it's killed. You know, tuna, it takes days for it to really come out of rigor and have it be have it be perfect again. And so you you know you want to really um it's not every fish the moment it's caught it's every fish at its proper time.
+
+[42:42] One thing that they they were looking for bluefish you eat blue fish Nastasha I love blue fish. Bluefish I've loved it for a long time starting to get popular a lot of people don't like it because it's an oily fish. They're real strong swimmers, real mean suckers they s they and they form huge schools and they go up uh a lot of times close to the beach and like uh my stepfather has seen it where people have been in the water and like a school of blues will come through and they'll just take a bite right out of like a a swimmer's leg because they're vicious suckers and they got like sharp sharp teeth. In fact if you're fishing for blues they use uh a lot of times metal uh leaders on them because they'll cut through their teeth will cut through other stuff and blues will they're monsters will eat anything um but delicious I want to try uh Ikijime on a blue fish because they're strong right so I think that they would really benefit from it and they're one of those fish that you need to eat relatively quickly people really say you need to eat it quickly because the flesh deteriorates so I'm wondering whether we can improve the quality of it by doing Ikojimi on a blue fish. And I'm especially interested because that is a fish that the Japanese guys don't eat right so they don't really understand the bluefish.
+
+[43:44] It's not a it's not something that they eat, as far as I know. So my goal for the summer, and if anyone's you know hearing this, buy Dave Chanck's uh iPad app when it comes out. See the Ikojime section on it because there's enough footage in that thing for you to learn how to do it from watching it. And so you can learn Ikajime from that and then go Ikajime some blue fish and uh tell me how it tell me how it turns out. So uh I may be in Los Angeles next week.
+
+[44:11] I may not, because even though it's next week and we're shooting this pilot for am I to s am I to say anything? I don't think so. I don't think you are. No? It's about history and and cooking.
+
+[44:23] Uh and I am going to like if it all works out, because even though it's only a week away, uh for some reason because it's me and I'm completely disorganized, we don't have the negotiations done yet, so I have no idea what's going on. But um if if uh if I do it, I'm gonna be a judge. Can you believe that? Me as a judge. How do you think that's gonna work out, Nastasha?
+
+[44:43] You're you're too nice. Yeah, but they should get they should get you to be it, because you'd sit there and just give them the death stare the whole time. Oh, I'm honest. And then just shake your head. You're honest?
+
+[44:52] Mm-hmm. That's what that is, honesty. Anyway, uh so hopefully I will be here. If not, I'll be coming to you from Los Angeles. This has been Cooking Issues.
+
+[45:02] Have a good week. Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information.
+
+[45:33] Thanks for listening. You got my head all twisted. And the guests can't get it straight. This is behind the scenes food news with Katie Kiefer. The USDA has introduced the My Plate icon.
+
+[45:54] I'm sure you've all seen that in the news, replacing the food pyramid that was in use for 19 years. This colorful icon contains portions of fruits, vegetables, grains, protein, and a little side dish of dairy. It can be viewed at www.choosmyplate.gov. It does look like a plate. It's divided into four quadrants.
+
+[46:15] They are surprisingly similarly sized. Vegetables, fruits, proteins, grains. The veg are definitely a little bit larger than the other groups, but protein was really big. I was surprised. I thought we were supposed to eat less meat.
+
+[46:30] Each component of the plate can be clicked on for a drop-down menu that explains portion size, healthy choices, nutritional information, etc. It offers significantly more information to consumers, but it is a little bit more complicated to use. We'll see if people actually look at it. This has been Behind the Scenes Food News with Katie Kiefer. Did you know we have a show entirely about cheese?
+
+[46:55] Take a listen. Well, I know this is a it's horrible to do visual things on the radio, but if you were all sitting in the studio, you would see this wheel from from late May is quite pale in color. It's uh um it's a little bit, yeah, like a milkier, um uh sort of a very soft yellow. And then the the wheel from late June is quite golden and intense looking. It's a really deep, deep yellow.
+
+[47:19] Um, what causes that that difference? Well, I'm quite sure it's the grass. Yeah, it's the keratin and the grass, and um that's giving it that yellow color, not fat. Um, but definitely coming from from the pasture. Um our animals are fed hay through the winter now.
+
+[47:39] We we don't use fermented feed because that won't work with our cheese. But um so they're essentially grass-fred year-round with grain salt. If you like what you hear, cutting the curd airs every Monday at 4 30 p.m. on Heritage Radio Network. Make sure to subscribe to the podcast or check it out in our archives.
+
+[48:00] Hi, I'm Steve Jenkins. I work for Fairway Markets in the New York area, and we're awfully proud to support Heritage Radio. And we care so much about everything that goes on out here at Roberta's and their studio because they talk to people who are are serious about food, and that's what we are at Fairway, is we're serious about food. We we just care very deeply about you as a as a customer and how you cook and what you cook with and how you entertain, and and that's why we love to support Heritage Radio, because it it it's pretty much the same thing. It's wanting to to find happiness through serious food and people who are serious about it and care about learning everything there is to learn about it, and that's that's we're kindred spirits.
+
+[48:51] If it's something worth having in your kitchen, you're gonna find it at Fairway. And if there's somebody worth talking to about food, you're gonna find them on Heritage Radio, and we will be supporting you guys for a long, long time. At Fairway, I'm your personal grocer, Steve Jenkins, Fairway Mark. The following is a message from HeritageFoodsUSA.com. The difference between wild Alaskan salmon and farmed Atlantic salmon is just as great as the differences between commodity pork and heritage breed pork.
+
+[49:30] Huge. HeritageFoodsUSA.com is lining up a major social pie of sustainably harvested salmon in July and offering it at a phenomenal price to consumers. Check out HeritageFoodsUSA.com for more details on how to get in on this opportunity. Experience salmon the way it should be.
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+[0:00] Hi, I'm Steve Jenkins. I work for Fairway Markets in the New York area. And we're awfully proud to support Heritage Radio. And we care so much about everything that goes on out here at Roberta's and their studio because they talk to people who are are serious about food. And that's what we are at Fairways.
+
+[0:23] We're serious about food. We we just care very deeply about you as a as a customer and how you cook and what you cook with and how you entertain. And that's why we love to support Heritage Radio because it it it's pretty much the same thing. It's wanting to to find happiness through serious food and people who are serious about it and care about learning everything there is to learn about it. And that's that's we're kindred spirits.
+
+[0:52] If it's something worth having in your kitchen, you're gonna find it at Fairway. And if there's somebody worth talking to about food, you're gonna find them on Heritage Radio, and we will be supporting you guys for a long, long time. At Fairway, I'm your personal grocer, Steve Jenkins, Fairway Market. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. I'm Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you live from Roberta's Pizzeria on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from about 12 to 1245.
+
+[1:35] Call in all of your questions, cooking or non cooking or technical related, to 718497 2128. That's 718 497 2128. Sadly, I am not joined in the studio today by Nastasha De Hammer Lopez because she is on vacation in Rhode Island up at uh Watch Hill, but she is calling in, so I think we have her. Nastash, you there? Yeah, hi.
+
+[1:55] Now how's Rhode Island? Did you say sadly? Did you you say sadly are not in there in the studio? Yeah, sadly. Sadly is that bad.
+
+[1:59] Oh, thank you. So uh how's uh how's Rhode Island up there? Um the beach is beautiful. Have you had I know you've seen I know you've seen every beach. Yeah, well, I've well I've seen and try to avoid most beaches.
+
+[2:17] My you know, my wife likes me to go to beaches all the time, but I'm first of all so white that everyone thinks there's a second sun on the beach, even though I'm completely clothed uh head to toe whenever I go to one. I also detest sand. Although I do like foraging for things on the beach. In fact, that's one of my favorite things to do. So that's the basically the only way you can get me to do anything, is if I'm gonna forage for food.
+
+[2:40] I remember when I was a kid, I used to we used to go to the Cape all the time, and I used to basically all I would do is go around looking for cawhogs and uh clams and mussels, depending on on where I was, because uh that's basically all I like about being outside is finding food. What about you? You used a there's a foraging session at four o'clock. So I'm gonna do that. You're gonna do it where what are you gonna what are you gonna forage for?
+
+[3:01] For plants or for animals? So a lot of good foraging to be done on the shores as well as in the water close to the beach. Uh I've never done it in Rhode Island, though. I mean, I've done a lot in Maine. They the famous uh, you know, dead for a long time, but famous wild food writer, maybe the first big famous one here in in this in the uh US, Yule Gibbons, wrote a specifically small manual for New England seacoast foraging, but it's more for Maine.
+
+[3:32] But there's just a wealth of things you can eat on the on the beach from uh like Oric, which is like Lamb's Quarters, which is great for a salad, or a version of sea beans or like wild sea rocket, which is a like a like wild rocket like arugula, but m uh more succulent and like crunchy and also a little more bitter like mustardy green, but the stuff just grows wild along the along the beach, you know, it's crazy. And and depending on I think it's a little early, but like beach plums, you know, you mean there's just fantastic amounts of things you can forage along the beach, and I think one of the reasons is because a lot of it you're not allowed to kind of mess with anymore from you know, from a development standpoint. So if you're in a place that's not built up, it's probably got a lot of that good stuff just lying around, right? Mm-hmm. Yeah.
+
+[4:18] Oh, I forgot to give you your service berries yesterday. Oh, I know. Nastasha's uh buddies went and um foraged in Brooklyn apparently you said for uh service berries, aka uh there's a million different names from shad berries and whatnot. Uh I've never actually had 'em. Were they good?
+
+[4:35] Uh they were okay. I mean, it's it's exactly what they said. It was a like blueberry texture with a raspberry uh taste. We made a pie and it was disgusting. Why was the why was the pie disgusting?
+
+[4:47] I messed up the crust and then the crust infiltrated the berry filling and it was just what? What did you what c what did you do for the crust? What did you let's let's analyze this. This will be our first problem on cooking issues. What did you do for the crust?
+
+[5:00] I used Cristo. What? Well, it was Pat's mom's recipe, and he was like, Mom makes this, you need to make it like this. And I was like, All right, so it was two cups of flour, three quarter cup of Crisco, and cold water and salt, and that was it. Right, and what happened?
+
+[5:20] It it wouldn't roll, and when I picked it up, it would crumble apart, so I made a second one, and then that one wouldn't roll. So then instead I took the ball and I put the ball in the center of the pie uh pie tin. And then I spread the ball out with my fingers so that it made a sort of crust around it. And then he insisted that there be a top crust. And so I rolled out a top crust and then carefully placed it on top, but it was all crumbly and gross.
+
+[5:46] And then yeah, and then that crust broke into the filling and as it was cooking. Well, it's hard. Yeah, you didn't you didn't use enough water. Everyone's petrified about using uh the too much water, and so they make a they make a one that's not bound. If you use uh I don't I can't really in my head calculate, you know, cut measures of uh of uh flour to um to Crisco.
+
+[6:10] Um but the uh you know you if you use enough of fat, right, and you incorporate it uh correctly into the flour base, um I usually add a little sugar because it colors it up really nicely and salt. Then uh, you know, you s you put the the ice water in and you don't really have to worry about it getting too uh the gluten developing too much and getting tough as long as you are pretty quick about it. Uh I tend to never use Crisco. Um I know I don't stock it. Um I think you know, lard is freaking delicious.
+
+[6:46] Lard lard's amazing. The problem with lard is that if you you know the hydrogenated lard is not so good, but the hydrogenated lard is good from a a texture standpoint, even though it's extremely soft, whereas uh home rendered lard tends to have a solid fraction and a liquid fraction. The liquid fraction is just too lack liquid to really do it properly, so you want to take the more solid fraction. And if you use lard, you want it to be really, really, really, really chilled, really chilled. But that gives kind of like a little like savory note to pastries that I think is really lacking in most modern pies that don't use lard.
+
+[7:20] But even and then, you know, barring that, even though the texture theoretically isn't quite as good using butter as using Crisco, butter pie crusts are freaking delicious. I mean they're Yeah, I wanted to use butter, and Pat was insistent that I use Crisco. Well, I didn't even have Crisco in the house, so he had to go buy it. But I had butter, you know? So I mean the the way Crisco, the you know, the the particular uh fat melting characteristics of Crisco, plus the fact that it doesn't have uh any, you know, it doesn't have water in it the way that butter does kind of make it have uh that that kind of unique Crisco texture that some people really really like.
+
+[7:56] I I don't think it's necessarily worth it. I've never been a big fan. I mean, uh, even prior to trans fat days, I mean, Crisco I thought was good for certain applications, like certain frying applications, donuts, you want a hydrogenated fat because um once they cool down, a donut fried in regular oil is gonna taste uh in liquid fat, liquid oil is gonna taste really greasy, whereas something fried in uh in a hydrogenated fat is going to um taste more like a donut, right? I mean, the flip side of that's also true. So, for instance, you want to fry fly fry potato chips in uh in liquid oil.
+
+[8:34] If you fry potato chips in a solid fat, they taste not oily, greasy, and they leave like this like grease coating on your tongue when you eat them, similar to what a donut might do, but in a potato chip that's considered extremely bad. In fact, um that is the story behind the whole kind of uh OLE remember OLESC? Wow, remember that? Mm-hmm. Yeah.
+
+[8:55] So for those of you that don't remember, uh Olestra, basically, there's a um a technique that they applied. They can apply it to any fat uh and it makes it such that you can no longer digest the fat, right? And so this was you know heralded years ago as like this is gonna make it so that you can eat un unlimited quantities of fried foods and it's gonna have the same effect on your waistline as if you ate everything steamed, basically. That was the that was the deal. Uh a couple of problems with it were one, uh when you uh do this uh procedure, you're no longer absorbing the fat, but that those fats still tend to uh the fat soluble vitamins also then tend not to be absorbed, so you're lacking in fat soluble vitamins.
+
+[9:34] That's the one problem. And two, if it's a liquid fat, right, like if you were to do it to make olestra olive oil, let's say, uh I don't know how I'm gonna put this in a way that's not gross, but it basically runs through your system and out your butt, right? Oh wow. And so that was what led to uh the phenomenon, and there is no polite way, it's the technical term, known as um uh anal leakage, right? Was what they called it, right?
+
+[10:00] Now, similar phenomenon, by the way, with this new uh new like three years ago product called LI. Remember, you know, you've heard of a lie, it's spelled kind of weird, but that's the diet pill that came out. Yeah. Yeah, it's a diet pill that basically you can eat and it stops you from absorbing fat. And uh I tested it, and the same kind of a thing happens.
+
+[10:21] You don't want to consume a lot of liquid fats when you're when you're on uh a lot. I don't even know if they sell it anymore, that stuff a lot. Anyway, so uh so back to where we're going. So what what happened was is they were frying potato chips in uh in liquid um in in an oil, liquid oil based uh OLESTR product, and basically it just ran straight through the test subjects, right? And that's where it picked up the really bad uh bad, bad uh press that if you ate this you were gonna have all kinds of you know gastrointestinal problems and it's gonna, you know, you're gonna set yourself on spray and whatnot.
+
+[10:56] So the but the the manufacturer w uh I forget who it was who did it with the Proctor and Gamble, whoever, that they basically were like, okay, uh no, it's free to lay actually. It's free to lay. Uh they uh they were like, okay, look, here's what we have to do. We have to use a hydrogenated fat so that um it's gonna be a solid in your body and it's not just gonna dribble through you like you're one long pipe. Do you know what I'm saying?
+
+[11:18] So so then they started frying um potato chips in solid olestra and they no longer had the underwear problem, but no one liked the taste of the potato chips, right? Because you don't want solid fat. You don't want your potato chips fried in solid fat. Okay. So what did they do?
+
+[11:37] They invented this new system, this air curtain, this hot air curtain, where they would fry the potato chips in this solid olestra and then they would put it on a conveyor and blast it with hot air. And the hot air would uh would would you know nuke the surface coating of the uh of fat right off the top of the chip so that when you ate it, you wouldn't perceive as much the fact that it had been fried with a solid fat, all right? Um and it wouldn't leak anymore, right? But the problem was is that you could always kind of tell that the thing had been fried in a solid fat, and most people then assumed that they could, well, I could taste OLESCR, you know, it doesn't taste good, I could taste no you can't. It's like the fact that they fried it in a uh solid fat is the problem.
+
+[12:18] If they had fried it in um you know, in a liquid OLESCRA, you would never have been able to taste the difference, except for, you know, you'd have to change your clothes a bunch. I mean, at one time I thought that I thought that uh Olestra was going to be the wave of the future and that there would be, you know, uh you know, in the in the in the dining room of the future, every chair would be its own chamber pot. But that has not come to pass. And instead, we have we have shied away from that, even as a, you know, I assume that culturally we would uh embrace anything that allowed us to um you know eat uh one thing constantly without it having an effect on our system, but for for some reason the the bad press surrounding it still prevented us from from uh embracing it wholeheartedly. Anyways, OLestra.
+
+[13:03] Back to, and by the way, for a very good account of O Lestra, you should read uh Jeffrey Steingarden's first book, The Man. I always get it wrong. I always confuse, and I've I think I said this on the air before, Jeff Jeffrey Steingarten, our good friend, uh Vogue food writer, uh, you know, renowned author, television personality, uh lunatic. Um he wrote a book called uh The Man Who Ate Everything, and I always confuse it with the Oliver Sachs book, The Man Who Mistook His Wife for a Hat. And so I always like I'm like the man who mistook his wife for someone who ate everything.
+
+[13:33] I always, for some reason, I don't know why I confuse these two books together, but I always do. Anyway, he has an extremely interesting article in that about uh and early, by the way, article on uh Olestra, uh, which I recommend that you go read. But the other m well, one of the other must-read articles, if there if there was such a thing in that book as a non-must-read article, I don't know, but uh one of the must-read articles in that book is on uh making pie crusts. And he um basically goes through a million different pie crusts uh and then ends up uh hanging out with Marion Cunningham, who uh was the you know famous, famous cookbook author and editor of uh, I believe of the more recent fanny Farmer, so that's been a long time since I looked it up. Uh and basically learns how to make pie crust from her, and it's extremely simple.
+
+[14:21] And I use their recipe now whenever I can, which is you put an absurd amount of butter, cut it up, make sure the butter is pretty cold, put it in the flour, uh add the salt or whatever sugar you want, knead it in with your fingers until it resembles like coarse, crumbly crap, like some things as big as peas and other things smaller. Stir in uh water, it doesn't have to be crazy ice water, make sure you have enough for it to bind together quickly, form it into a dough, uh roll it out without much ado, try not to re-roll it and go. And that's like, you know, that's it. You know what I mean? Makes great makes a great crazy.
+
+[14:54] Can you do it in the kitchen aid when you do it or you do it? Oh hell no. I use my use my hands in a fork. It's so simple. That's the thing.
+
+[14:59] Like everyone like you know, they they have these recipes, like when you're making puff pastry, people use, for instance, the uh um food processor to cut the cut the the butter in to get flakiness instead of having you make like you know the this the the butter mixture, folding it over and rolling it a bunch of times. With pie crust, there is never a reason to use any piece of mechanical equipment whatsoever. Like, you know, you just get a bowl and uh put in the flour, put in the I would say butter, but or I would say lard, and then barring lard, a mixture of lard and butter, barring a mixture of lard and butter, butter, barring that, I don't know, whatever the hell you have lying around your house. But yeah, Crisco, whatever. Um but uh you know, no offense to the Crisco people, except for the fact that it's because of Crisco and things like it that we no longer use lard because uh there was a big switch away, but that that's a whole separate story.
+
+[15:51] We'll get into that maybe later. Anyway, so uh uh you just put the the the flour stuff in and quickly with your fingers, like r rub it. And Steingarden has a great uh description of it because if there's anything Steingarden is, is he's extremely anal about not just recording what you say, but what you do. That's why he likes to go into the kitchen and watch people cook. Uh and so if you've ever cooked with him, he'll get something over the over the phone or whatnot.
+
+[16:17] He'll he wants to show up and examine everything you're doing, and he'll ask you constantly why you're doing X, why you're doing Y, and doing readings. And it's because he knows that um regardless of what you say, right, you almost always do something else, or you really don't understand why you're doing what you're doing anyway, and so he needs to basically decode it. And that's one of the reasons why he's been uh why he's so interesting and why he's been um so successful. Um so he has a very good description of of how to do it, but you basically just stick your hands in and you uh rub your thumb over your fingers like like almost like you were snapping, but across all your fingers, but uh or like you were rubbing, or like you were rubbing through your fingers like your fingers were the tines of a comb or a fork and you're rubbing it through. So you just rub it in and then uh just stir in the water with a fork, gather it into a ball with your hand, and you're good to go.
+
+[17:06] I mean, really, it's that's it's that freaking simple. There's nothing simpler than making a good pie crust, and yet there's not there's few things that cause as much anxiety among people. Secondly, uh, you know, you know, no offense to uh Nastasha's friend Pat here, but is he is he a known is he a known good cook? Is he what? Known to be a cook?
+
+[17:27] Yeah, is he a good cook? No. Then you should never listen to him about anything. You should like to go. Here's his mom, his mom.
+
+[17:34] Was his mom there? No. Then you should not listen to him. It's like saying, you know what? My mom, she's a really good doctor.
+
+[17:41] My mom knows how to cure uh, you know, X, Y, and Z. Or my mom's a good surgeon, so I'm gonna listen to listen to me about how to chop someone's heart out. Really? No. You know what I mean?
+
+[17:52] It's like, if the experts in the room with you, then um, you know, then follow the advice. But if it if, you know, if it's just some, you know, if it if it's like, you know, my mom's a good cook, well, you know, so what? You know, especially considering that there are eight million ways to do anything. And so uh, and even perfectly, and that's my that's always been my issue with you know, magazines like the Cooks Illustrated, or even sometimes when, you know, when we, you know, when we write, or when I write, you know, your urge is to say, this is the ultimate X, this is the ultimate Y, or the best, blah, blah, blah. In reality, um, there are a lot and there are a lot of things that are good done a bunch of different ways, and the idea isn't to find the one best way, but to have your way be coherent from beginning to end and to produce a delicious product.
+
+[18:38] There are many paths, there are many ways. Um but anyway, so I've been blabbering on about the pie crust. Why don't we go to our first commercial break? Call in your questions as 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues.
+
+[19:04] When black body comes, stand down by the door. Catch the bread and when the guy comes for the fall. When black body comes, I could let them everything alone, and before my friends find out I'll be on the road. When back is old to know it's not too big. Welcome back to Cooking Issues.
+
+[19:55] Calling all your questions too. 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. Jack choosing the music today. Jack, what is that?
+
+[20:02] I like that. Steele Dan. Steely Dan. Uh Steely Dan taking their name, I believe, from a uh William Burroughs uh uh quote, right? It's I I believe I uh there's so many like unf family friendly things, but I believe Steely Dan is from a William uh William Burroughs book and it refers to uh a toy used uh in private by women, a specific brand of them, or men, I guess.
+
+[20:28] I don't know. Is that is that true, Jack? That's true, yeah. Yeah, interesting. Uh Nastash, you still with us?
+
+[20:34] Mm-hmm. I'm having a frozen virgin lemonade. Well, wait, wh what? Wait, are you having a Dell's lemonade? I don't know.
+
+[20:42] Some guy handed it to me. Oh, Jesus, is it Dell's? Turn to the guy and say, is this a Dell's lemonade? No, he walked away. He's like it's it just has lots of pieces of lemon right in it.
+
+[20:52] That's that's Dell's. That's Dell's. That's that is you you have Rhode Island in a cup. All right. So like that's one of the like here's the thing, right?
+
+[21:01] Everyone says there's no such thing as regional American X, Y, or Z, and they're full of horse manure. Like uh, yeah, Rhode Island's got a couple of classic things. Anyone that's I didn't grow up in Rhode Island, but anyone that's grown up in Rhode Island knows Dell's Lemonade, and Dell's Lemonade is famous for um you got the slight it's a slushy one, right? And it's got little pieces of of of uh like the lemon in it, and it's classic. But they sell a packaged dell's that I've had that's okay, but it's not I don't think it's the same thing that they use if you get it from the real Dell stand in Rhode Island, but I can't be sure.
+
+[21:37] Any Rhode Island fan should call in and you know, and there's by the way, there's like a uh a Rhode Island kind of uh a New York Rhode Island culinary mafia. Uh you know, rut hello? Yeah, no someone's putting together a table, of course, behind me because it can't be this show without construction going up. So it sounds like a a pig is running around behind you, it's snorting. Right?
+
+[22:01] Yeah. So yeah, so like uh Wiley Dufrain, my brother-in-law, is Rhode Island. Uh there's a gazillion New York chefs that are Rhode Island. Isn't uh isn't uh Kevin also from Rhode Island? Yeah, yeah.
+
+[22:15] Who who else? Who else do we know from Rhode Island? Small state, a lot of chefs. Right? Yeah.
+
+[22:20] Yeah, strange. Okay. Uh let me see. Oh, by the way, did I already say this? Call in your questions to 718-497-2128.
+
+[22:28] That is uh 718-4972128. Nastasha, you'll be glad to know that I in fact still have not memorized it, and Jack had to give me a card with the uh with the with the number. Sometimes I think you just toy with me. No, I I really have not memorized it. If it's one of those things, like uh don't you have anything that you just have a mental block on that you can't that you can't memorize?
+
+[22:48] Yeah, yeah. Okay. Yeah. You know, I can memorize many things. The number of uh to call into the show is not not one of those things.
+
+[22:56] Uh but you say it with such a flow that you think that you'd memorize it, you know. You say it the same way every time. Right. Well, you know what it's funny, it's like uh when you're reading something, and maybe this is part of the reason, when you're reading something, it literally just goes uh you know, th from your eyes out your mouth, and it's just that's it, it's gone. And I I had this happen when I was uh doing the ISCP, the uh International Association of Culinary Professionals with uh Chris Young, is the first time in my life we were doing a presentation for the awards for the cookbook awards, and it was the first time in my life I've ever used a teleprompter, and I have no idea what I said.
+
+[23:30] You know what I mean? It was like uh you know, it's it's it's it's like that's why you you know you ever see those things where like the newscasters are sitting there and they'll like someone will put something crazy in the teleprompter and they'll just start reading it with the same kind of emotion. I you know, I always thought they were dumb, but now I really understand it. It's that you you know, all you're concentrating on is delivering the text that's on the screen, and the mental activity it would take to process it at the same time is just you know too much. Anyway, so maybe that's why.
+
+[23:57] Maybe if I actually sat there I could memorize it, but because I've never done it and I've just read it off the piece of paper, I'll never memorize it. What do you think? Yeah. Oh, I was gonna tell you, LA is keeps asking about special treats that you like, so I've been sending them information on special things. Oh, Jesus, really?
+
+[24:14] Honestly? And okay, so uh what Nastasha's referring to is I'm I'm going off to Los Angeles. In fact, uh I have my bags with me now. As soon as the show is over, I'm going to John F. Kennedy International Airport and flying to LA, we're shooting a pilot.
+
+[24:29] Um, but I can't obviously talk about the pilot because then they would execute me. So apparently they have been emailing Nastasha saying what things that I uh in enjoy eating, but the problem is, um, and this is an interesting fact for those that have never met Nastasha, is that she's vicious. She's a vicious, vicious vi Jack, true or false. Um Thank you, Jack. He's just nervous because he doesn't want to doesn't want to suffer Nastasha's wrath when she gets back.
+
+[24:58] But um, yeah, Nastasha's uh yeah, yeah. So anyway, so here's the deal. Uh I guarantee you, and I'll find out when I get there. I guarantee you, Nastasha has only said either things that are embarrassing to me or that I actually despise, right? And then the funny thing is there are very few things I actually despise.
+
+[25:16] She'll she'll say something like this get pretzel sticks, even though everyone on earth knows I detest pretzel sticks because they're not real pretzels. Specifically, I said real pretzels and they have to be in knots. But they don't like it. I like that, but do they even have those in California? I mean, that's an East Coast thing, right?
+
+[25:34] Do they have real pretzels? We have Snyders. Snyders isn't that bad, right? No, Snyders is okay. Snyders used to be one of the best, but they've been stale now for about 15 years uh or 20 years.
+
+[25:43] The Snyders that come in a box have been stale, but that's old school. Like I used to eat those. That's what what the the Arnold clan has been. You know, my I I know I've discussed this on the air before, but uh I'm going to Florida soon, uh, not only to taste mangoes, which you know, maybe we'll talk about later if we have enough time, maybe not, with Nastasha and Harold McGee. And uh I'm hoping to get Tony uh Corneliaro out, but I don't think he's gonna be able to go.
+
+[26:06] But um, you know, anyways, uh right after that I'm visiting my uh 92-year-old uh grandpa and my ninety uh eight-year-old uh great uncle, Uncle Luke. I think I told you this. My kids want to visit him because they think he's Uncle Luke Skywalker. They have no they have no idea. Anyway, um he uh back in the depression worked in a pretzel factory and so back in the because they're all from uh Lancaster County you know uh Pennsylvania and so they uh yeah so I come from a pretzel eating background you are not related to me unless you like eating pretzels and the first thing you learn in my house is that pretzels must be twisted.
+
+[26:43] So what else did you tell them I like? Did you tell them I but you know uh for those of you out there if you want to send me something I hate the only two foods in the world that I don't like are notto which is I've discussed this uh and Harold McGee says that he has a natto that I'm actually gonna like which is a uh a uh fermented soybean product that to me tastes like uh garbage and the and uh the other is uh melon I don't like melon so did you tell them to get me plenty of cantaloupe even though you know I hate it no I'm not gonna tell you what I told them it'll be surprising you get that it's gonna be some it's gonna be something like really embarrassing. Like make sure you know what here's another I'm gonna go out on a limb like there are things that are people are embarrassed by that I am not embarrassed by I am not embarrassed to have a big pink drink in my hands like a giant pink fruity drink in my hands. If it's delicious I have no I have no problem with it right I mean what do you think like I know that there are certain drinks that if I see a dude with them I'm like really that's what you're gonna have that's what you're gonna drink but like I I I think that if there is a if there's a really good drink then you know you know what it's light beer would embarrass you more than having a drink with a flour garnish in it. I don't yeah I don't I mean I look uh I don't understand light beer I really don't I I don't I just don't I just don't under I don't understand it.
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+[27:58] I mean uh uh uh okay okay one caveat. Like right now you're on the beach, right? Yeah. Is it piss hot where you are? Yeah.
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+[28:05] Yeah, okay. So I mean, you know, a corona has its place there, which is basically a light beer, right? I mean, because it's basically like I want to have a little bit of alcohol and feel a little bit festive, but what I really want to do is drink seltzer water. Right? Yeah.
+
+[28:19] Right? So, like, you know, you feel a little bit bad just ordering a seltzer and you feel bad ordering a light beer, so you order a corona, which is essentially a light beer without the light beer label. Anyway. Mm-hmm. Uh, how the hell do we get on this subject?
+
+[28:32] I have no idea. Things you like and dislike. Oh, yeah, because of California. Anyway, okay. So uh let's get to a uh real question here.
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+[28:39] Uh this is uh this is from uh I hope I pronounced this right, Myrica. Uh hi Nastash and Dave. Perhaps hold sec. Oh, we got a call in. So Myrick, I'll cut get back to your one question in a minute.
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+[28:50] Caller, you're on the air. Hey, this is Josh and Tampa. How are you doing, Dave? Hey, doing all right. Good.
+
+[28:55] Got a question. A couple of years ago I bought uh the flavor bible. It's got a lot of good ideas, but uh I wonder if you could elaborate on the actual act of balancing flavors. I know something's too salty, you could add something acidic, and if something's too bitter, you add sweet, but uh I mean, how do you fine-tune a recipe? Huh, that's interesting.
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+[29:14] Uh I actually own that, but I always for I always mix it up with different uh books. Who are the authors on that one again? Yeah, I couldn't tell you right off my head. Yeah, uh the idea of balance is really uh it it's it's really interesting. I tend y you know, if you every cook has their own feeling for what they what they do to to balance, and usually when you taste something, um you'll you know why it's flat.
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+[29:38] If it you know, if it if it's flat, also by the way, when I'm balancing a dish, what I'll tend to do is take a little bit of that dish out and then play with that little bit of the dish on the side so that I can kind of see which direction my my additions are taking it, so I don't kind of botch the whole thing up. But if something just tastes overall like like low in flavor, dead, I add a pinch of salt to see whether the whole thing wakes up a little bit. And if it does I'll keep adding a little more I mean first of all like getting the salt balance right I think is the is the most important thing. And then the next one is you know almost always m um you know dishes especially braises or any anything like that like big liquid based things tend to be tend to lack acidity unless you specifically added it. But you know typically you'll add those things uh towards the end of cooking so you know first I'll usually first check a salt component and then I'll check a uh and then I'll check uh an acidity and I I personally do a lot of like meaty umami bolstering stuff either with fish sauce or with uh or with soy um so even in um non-western I mean even in western dishes I'll end up hitting it with like a little bit of not like a not a normal uh fish sauce one of the milder more kind of meaty fish sauces like uh like ishiri from Japan or or Ayu which you can get from Japan um because some of the you know some of the more traditional uh Southeast Asian ones can kind of quickly take on that Southeast Asian flavor otherwise or tiny bits of soy and not really so that you know you've done it just so that you kind of like really like like blow something out a little bit it just really changes it and rounds it into more meaty so like even like in like a bechamel sometimes I'll add a uh a pinch of those kind of uh things I tend not to have MSG in my house or I might ex experiment with that.
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+[31:33] So in general, I don't do a lot of uh like uh m masking, right? So also I obviously you add sugar to things to round them out. But in general what what I think in terms of balance is that you want to get you you want to get the overall flavor pretty good. Like when you make a stock, right? You don't season the stock from the get-go.
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+[31:53] You try to balance meat and vegetable and it's very kind of uh but when you taste it you could tell what it could be but it's very flat because it doesn't have any of the other things that are in it and you want it that way because you're going to reduce it by a lot. And so that's when you you bring out the balancing act. First you pop up all the flavors by adding something like salt which is going to enhance the flavor of everything. And then or you know or if something's too salty you can add sweetness which is going to balance out the saltiness, which was I think kind of the thing you were talking about before. The problem with that is that if you go that route if you I what you don't want to be in a position of is having to uh tone down another flavor by adding another flavor on top of it because then everything just gets kind of overwhelming over time.
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+[32:34] I think you do you know what I'm saying? Do you agree or no? No I I agree because I've been trying to make like an Asian foul cedar salad using fish sauce and uh egg yolk and I've been trying to haven't been really going that well. Right. I mean I think what you want to do on that because that sounds actually like a a good idea you should try to source this stuff called IU which is this uh IU sauce it's a sweet fish from Japan and I don't know who's carrying this stuff but it's the most unbelievable fish sauce I've ever had it's crazy because it's a dead cross between fish sauce and like bacon and ham juice.
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+[33:05] It's nuts. It's crazy. I you ayu yeah um but the uh I I think it's available now but I I'm I'm not sure it's it's it's amazing stuff. But I think what you're gonna want to do on the on the fish sauce and uh is use it as a very minor component. Do you know what I mean?
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+[33:23] Like like one dash of fish sauce in like a Caesar style thing is going to really pop and bring out that that fish sauce essence, especially are you are you doing it in addition to anchovy? No. J instead of anchovy. Yeah. I mean, I'm a huge uh an anchovy fan, but um, you know, there's another way to go if you want to go uh stick with a more Italian kind of flavor set.
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+[33:47] There's uh a fish uh product called Colatura, which is basically like uh uh like an anchovy like oil. Doesn't taste like fish sauce, but is kind of in between like an like it's not fermented, but it's got some of the kind of the funkiness of uh of uh uh anchovies. You could take a look at that. That's you can get that from Italian specialty markets, but they they charge an arm and a leg for it. I think like uh if you were to go and use an anchovy, because I always put anchovy in my Caesar salad, you know, you crush crush I'll crush it up um for the flavor and also the emulsifying stuff.
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+[34:18] I tend to use salt pack anchovies because I like them a lot. But um I think a dash of fish sauce in that can really work well. The problem, how much were you adding before? Uh about a tablespoon. Yeah, so I would I would just go a lot less.
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+[34:31] I mean, fish sauce is one of those things where it's like small amounts, like add this kind of ineffable quality that you know that you it's hard to get any other way, and then you add a little bit more and now it tastes uh Asian on you. Do you know what I mean? Which is good if that's what you're looking for. Yeah, that's what I'm trying to do. The only thing I'm trying to find a substitute for the parmesan or uh aspect of cheese.
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+[34:53] Oh yeah. It's not really a cheese thing going on. You mean because you don't want cheese because of the Asian component or because Yeah, and it's it's interesting. Um, you know, the lack of dairy in uh in Asian cuisine is something I've been studying uh recently. Uh but also it's funny is the lack of dairy in uh like Italian classic or a lot of European fish based dishes.
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+[35:16] And I think that in the one case of uh dairy in Asia, a lot of um a lot of uh China, for instance, in the north, and then you know, even throughout the middle section used to eat a lot of dairy. And uh I think what happened during the Ming Dynasty, there's a reaction against anything having to do with uh kind of like northern invaders uh that they had just basically thrown off the yolk from and since dairy was considered something that came from kind of Central Asia and then and the north, they were like crap on dairy. We don't want to use it anymore. You know what I mean? And then uh in in Italian and European food, I think the lack of dairy with specifically with fish-based products, uh guess except for things like Caesar salad, which is not Italian, but you know, as a European derivative, is that um fish was eaten on fast days, and on fast days you didn't have dairy.
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+[36:03] You only had uh you had no meat and you had no dairy, so you had fish. And I think that's where a lot of the you know, for instance, fish pastas don't have uh cheese on them because of this ancient uh not ancient, but this you know, kind of old idea that you that you know on days that would you're having fish you're not having any dairy. Um anyway, but that that's uh uh aside from the point. So uh it's very hard to substitute for um parme parmesan, very hard. Uh nothing kind of tastes like that.
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+[36:35] Uh I mean you can make an entirely different thing. In other words, you could use an egg yolk and then do like fish sauce and some sort of like uh you know, something with a lot of enzyme breakdown products in it, like maybe like a miso and then you know, lime juice, I think it would taste good. It wouldn't taste like a Caesar salad. Do you know what I mean? No, no, no, that sounds great.
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+[36:54] Yeah. Oh, and then, you know, if you're gonna want to add some of the the that texture back, you could uh I mean nothing has that texture what has that texture. I mean you could crumple something like very, you know, like what could you crumple? I mean I don't know if is the idea to go vegetarian except for the uh egg. No, there's no vegetarian in this.
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+[37:15] Oh right, fish sauce. What the hell what the heck am I talking about? Brainless. Anyway, um the uh yeah I'm trying to think of what what I would add for the texture component of that. But I I would try like a flavor base like that 'cause that's delicious.
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+[37:26] Because the acid's really gonna balance out the I mean a fish sauce. I mean that's classic. You know what I mean? Like and and then I think the egg yolk's gonna add some body that you wouldn't normally get in a in a uh anything like that. Bring it closer to uh to a Caesar salad and um you know there's so many different flavors to play with with miso that I think you can really um balance then also not just body but sweetness and uh the amino acid um you know those amino flavors that you get in miso.
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+[37:51] So I would try that. Um you wanna talk about uh I mean have you been offered any uh T V jobs? I know like the celebrity chef is huge and you're friends with a lot of the big ones uh want to see if anything come your way. 'Cause I've been reading your article uh what is it on um Food Republic? On uh oh oh on uh or eater eater.
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+[38:14] Yeah well it's an interesting thing. I've done a lot of um I've done a lot of uh you know little spots on um y you know the expert for X Y and Z and uh I'm like I say I'm going to shoot a pilot now. If that pilot, you know, takes off I'll be a recurring character on that show. But you know, the T V's really hard because, you know, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. And um uh, you know, the the kind of what I'm interested in is f fairly niche.
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+[38:43] You know, so like we have a fair you know, we have a the the people that read the the blog or listen to the show, you know, I really I really um like them because you know they they are dedicated to this kind of weird stuff that uh I'm in general interested in but it's hard to sell on a on a T V it's hard to sell on T V because um it's just I don't think it's mass mass market enough. I mean uh hopefully that that'll change um but that's always been the problem is trying to figure out something that um they could sell as kind of a mass market um show that is something that I'm still interested in. You know what I mean? Yeah I was like another question actually opinion. Do you think uh that modern gastronomy will ever make it to like the chilies or the Fridays level where these dishes that were you know that that have been done so much that nobody does them anymore but you know they could do it over there without anybody scoffing.
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+[39:36] You think it'll ever reach there? Just for like the novelty aspect which modern uh cooks try to avoid right well okay I mean there's there's a there's a couple of things I think that there um there's definitely um in those in those realms there's a search for novelty but it's very very um kind of reined in it has to be extremely friendly but novel. So you know they'll spend like a a bazillion dollars to come up with a new flavor that's a tiny bit outside of the box but is so friendly that someone will still order it. So some of the some of the more challenging stuff that's being done in modern cuisine is not going to trickle down anytime soon. Um you know, th there are certain exceptions, like you know, garnishes are uh or or techniques, but the core techniques that are being used in uh in new in new technologies, a lot of them come from um kind of a similar well spring of ideas that that those guys use.
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+[40:35] So, you know, I mean one of the major uh one of the major things that Farran really did was say, let let me look at industrial uh food manufacturing and see what it has to teach us about uh cooking. So, you know, and I feel that some of these techniques that are being used to make food better that were just industrial techniques before are gonna be used in in places that are more mass market to make food better eventually. And I think you know one of the key things is low t low temperature cooking. If you know when I go to the um shows where I see the equipment that's being sold to restaurants and food service change now, over the past couple of years there's been a big groundswell movement to move towards better temperature control. And what that means is people are going to care more and more about not overcooking their products or keeping them in top conditions.
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+[41:27] And to me that's one of the core things about um kind of this new mode of cooking and like one of the core values is is that and so I think that is definitely moving into uh what's going on. Now are you ever going to see liquid nitrogen at Applebee's? I don't know. I don't think so. Do you know what I mean?
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+[41:44] Uh unless it became kind of cost effective where they could get I mean I could see someone like you know I could see Chuck E. Cheese making liquid nitrogen ice cream as part of the uh as part of the you know the the pizza party thing for kids with the video games. I could see that because it's cool. Um but you know, I don't know whether any of the actual dishes are gonna make it. Um, but I think that there is going to be a trickle down of some of these techniques because um they just have legs.
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+[42:10] You know, some of some of them don't, some of the some of them do. You know? Right on. Yeah. Alright, well, thanks for calling in.
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+[42:17] No problem. All right. And uh uh before we run out of time, I should answer the question that Myrick had, because it's an interesting one, even though we've uh spoken a little bit about something similar before. Nastash, are you still there? Yep, I'm here.
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+[42:30] All right, so Myrica writes in, she says, Perhaps my cooking issue is not very high tech, but of course we like all cooking issues, right, Nastasha? Yeah. Yeah. Uh but since she loves our show more than any other show, which we really appreciate, uh, I hope you could share some nuggets of wisdom on the subject of pit roasting a pig. Uh uh, she's she's doing that.
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+[42:47] She's pit roasting a pig. Uh we have here this is her talking. We have a hole and a 100 pound Berkshire hog and a ton of banana leaves. We have pretty basic instructions, but absolutely no experience with pit roasting. I'm willing to go to any lengths to get excellent results, any special tips, tools, or references.
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+[43:02] Okay. Okay. Uh I like the fact that you said we are willing to go through any lengths to get excellent results. I appreciate that. Um here is your main problem is that uh you have a single 100 pound pig and uh it's very hard to get it right the first time around.
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+[43:18] If you're gonna if you're gonna um pit roast uh a pig, the basic the basic procedures are you build a fire uh and you uh you use rocks, you heat rocks with with a wood fire, uh I guess you could use charcoal, but wood fire. Uh and those rocks retain the heat that is then going to cook the animal over a long period of time after you bury it over with dirt, right? The other basic principle is that you um you're gonna wrap the pig in uh in banana leaves in in your case, which is gonna do two things, which is gonna keep the moisture in. Um well, it's gonna keep the moisture in, and it's also gonna stop the dirt from getting getting all over the pig. Uh the key things, one, you want to make sure that your stones aren't going to explode so but what I would do is I would uh find you want to find um stones that uh don't have a lot of contained water in them that don't have uh a lot of fissures that could break apart and then what I would do is build a fire outside and throw a bunch of rocks into it right and see whether and l step away step away from the rocks and then if they explode they explode you know uh I've uh I've had rocks uh you know I've done a lot of work with uh heating rocks and uh indeed they explode and when a rock explodes it's no joke you know what I mean it's like sprays everywhere little little shards of rock and and stuff I uh totally freaked out the pastry uh you know one of the pastry chefs in a in a kitchen at the school because I was heating rocks over over a burner.
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+[44:44] So I would preheat the rocks, check it, dig a pit, then you're gonna need to heat the rocks for um for several hours. I would also, if you're gonna be willing to go through any lengths, I would definitely fire up the oven once, get something that is like has a similar weight to the pig, you know, that is cheaper than a pig and then attempt to roast it all the way through in the in the earth as a test for your system, right? So what you're gonna need to do is build up a big enough layer of rock such that it retains heat for long enough to cook the pig all the way through right even though it's not going to be so hot that it's gonna overcook or ruin the pig at any one point. So I would get some uh long ther if you if you can I would get some long thermocouples which aren't that expensive. You can get them for like $15, $20 a piece on Amazon, really long ones, and then a thermocouple thermometer and embed them into the ground in several points along your proposed oven.
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+[45:41] Bury it like you were going to make the thing uh you know after it's been fired up, and then take measurements of the temperatures over time. And you're gonna want it to, it can stay up fairly high. So I would uh I would measure it and make sure that it, you know, it stays up in kind of that brazing range for several hours and then maintains a temperature above the cook point of the pork, which is going to be in roughly 60 Celsius or 140 Fahrenheit for a good uh depending on I can't picture how big around a 100-pound pig is, but not that much. I think like a good like six hours or something like that. If it stays around, hovers around there but isn't too high for that range.
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+[46:34] I think you're gonna be uh good. I I read a very uh good idea that somebody had, um, and I will get you the website because it's a it seems to be a fairly decent reference on how to build this. It's uh recipe cottage. Oh, recipecottage.com forward slash Hawaiian uh forward slash uh forward slash whole roast pig. Um you know, you can search for that, but it has a good idea that you wrap the pig after you do the banana leaves, you wrap the pig in chicken wire so that you can easily pick it up without the pig totally falling apart.
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+[47:08] I think that's a kind of a a genius, a genius uh idea. Um the other thing you're gonna want to do is take care of the meat. The one of the problems with cooking whole animals is that no one portion of the of the uh of the meat is the same, right? So some cuts want to be cooked by brazing over a long period of time to break down the collagen. Those ones are the ones that are gonna taste best using this kind of a technique because they have enough um collagen in them that when they're cooked, they're gonna stay uncuous, even though the meat has technically gone well above the temperature that you would want to cook it uh if you were just cooking it, let's say as a steak or medium rare.
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+[47:44] But the the other muscles like the loin, the things that don't have a lot of uh exercise or a lot of movement, these ones, even if they stay juicy because you've wrapped them and they have enough in-trained moisture in it from the thing, they're going to be not prime uh texture because those muscles aren't meant to be cooked that long. Uh and this is the problem I think it's I don't think it's possible to cook a whole animal such that unless you go through crazy lengths like uh like I did with the uh with the turkey that you know I made a uh artificial aluminum skeleton for and pumped you know molten, you know, hot butter through it. I mean, like you know, unless you go through bonkers things, it's very hard to get a whole animal to come together at the same time. So one thing I would do is if you can salt out or get some salt or something in the areas that don't have as much connective tissue uh beforehand, that is going to protect them a little bit by having them keep more moisture by basically uh making the muscles be able to hold on to the water a little bit better. Um so I would definitely do that.
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+[48:43] Uh I would uh I wish you could run some tests. It's all about running tests first, since I've never cooked uh one underground. I've done spit roast whole pigs, and the idea there is to basically stretch out the animal so that all meats uh get done at the same amount uh uh uh in the same amount of time. So you're also gonna have a problem with your pig that if you have places in the thigh uh in the leg, especially where the leg meets the body, it's gonna be very thick there, and so that's gonna take the longest to cook, and you'll be ruining the rest of the meat while that's happening. That's why a lot of recipes will tell you to score out the meat so you can get down close to the bone in those areas, but then you have the problem of you're gonna leach a lot of juices out during that procedure, even if you wrap it in in banana leaves.
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+[49:21] So, I mean, I don't know whether if I was gonna do it myself, I might stretch it out so it's long and then wrap it, although that goes against what I think most people would tell you to do. But uh I'm gonna try to do a little more research. Um maybe post something. If you post something to eater, to the eater thing, hopefully I'll have some time to do some more research uh later this week, and I can have some more uh definitive answers for you, Marika. But thanks for writing in.
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+[49:47] And uh I think I'm I think I might have to either do this from LA next week or I might have I hope I don't have to skip a week, right, Jack? That would be terrible. That would be awful. Uh Nastasha, thanks for joining us from uh Sunny Rhode Island. Hey Nastash, I heard that you found a skate on the uh on the beach, and instead of eating it, you threw it back in the water.
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+[50:06] What's up with that? The seagull had already attacked it. Well, which is it? Which is it? The seagull attacked it and it was gonna die anyway, in which case you should have eaten it, or or what?
+
+[50:16] I threw it back in. I I threw it back in. Don't you like skate? No. Is that the same thing as a stinger?
+
+[50:24] No. Skate me you skate. Skate's delicious. You don't like skate? Maybe it was a stingray then, because it looked like a stingray.
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+[50:32] They don't have no skates look like stingrays, but they're not like a stingray. I mean, they look like like Minnie's stingrays. How am I gonna bring it in, Dave? How am I gonna bring it in? It was on the beach, you said.
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+[50:42] Yeah. Well, with my bare hand. Yeah. Anyway, scapes delicious. You know, uh, another one of those things that for years and years and years was a trash fish, they would throw it away because no one realized how delicious it was.
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+[50:55] Uh delicious, delicious fish. Anyway, uh, this has been cooking issues. Please come back next week. Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows.
+
+[51:20] You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening. You got my head all twisted. And I guess can't get it straight.
+
+[51:46] Oh, you daddy rat. Got me on this corner. And I don't know where I'm at. This is behind the scenes food news with Katie Kiefer. In the wake of the massive E.
+
+[52:07] coli outbreak in Germany, which was finally traced to organic sprouts. The editors of Food Safety News uh published an editorial suggesting that all sprouts should come with a warning label. The CDC or Center for Disease Control is echoing that sentiment, saying sprouts are not healthy food for everyone. Children, the elderly, and persons whose immune systems are not functioning well should not eat raw sprouts, because current treatment of seeds and sprouts cannot get rid of all the bacteria present. Persons who are at high risk for complications from foodborne illness should probably not eat raw sprouts.
+
+[52:43] According to an article in the current issue of emerging infectious diseases, CDC's peer-reviewed journal, which tracks new and re-emerging infectious diseases worldwide. Although sprouts are often considered a health food, the warm humid conditions needed for growing sprouts from seeds are also ideal for bacteria to flourish. Salmonella, E. coli, and other bacteria can grow to high levels without affecting the appearance of the sprouts. Researchers have treated both seeds and sprouts with heat or washed them in solutions of chlorine, yum, alcohol, and other chemicals.
+
+[53:17] Some of these disinfectants reduced the levels of bacteria, but a potential hazard remained, especially for persons with weak immune systems, that would be the elderly, children, pregnant women, etc. High temperatures that would kill the bacteria on the seeds would also keep them from sprouting. So until an effective way is found to prevent illness from sprouts, they really should be eaten with caution, if at all. And by the way, it's National Sprout Month. This is behind the scenes food news with Katie Geefer.
+
+[53:44] Check out a small clip from the food scene hosted by Michael Harlan Turkell, a show where food and art intersect. I think most recently you had a chocolate waterfall that had five tons of chocolate flowing. And you'd put on what a protective suit, walk through a waterfall, make your own chocolates within this kind of contained environment. And most recently, a rabbit cafe. Can you explain that one to me a little bit?
+
+[54:12] Well, I'm this also slightly comes from jellies as well, because in England, everyone has these uh rabbit jelly molds. It's the most popular mold everyone goes, Oh, I had rabbit jellies as a kid. And we've always been awfully bewildered by why, why rabbit jellies? The only way to get to the bottom of that was to get a whole hard of rabbits out from a cafe with them and have people talk rabbits and these. Yeah.
+
+[54:29] Um so it kind of has resonance with uh one of one of our favorite cookbooks, which we think an awful lot of uh you know modern chefs have have is the dark secret under that pillow. Um, which the future is. Want to hear more? Well, tune into the food scene live every week, Tuesdays at 3 p.m., or you can find all the archive shows on our website, or subscribe to the podcast and iTunes. Thanks for listening.
+
+[55:04] The following is a message from Zingerman's. From June 30th to July 3rd, 2011. Come hang out at Camp Bacon, a four-day festival hosted by Zingerman's. The main event is an all-day affair at Zingerman's Roadhouse, featuring plenty of bacon, bacon learning, and such luminaries as Alan Benton, John T. Edge, Molly Stevens, and more.
+
+[55:25] The event will be taking place in Ann Arbor, Michigan. Proceeds from this event benefit Southern Foodways Alliance. Also, on Friday, July 1st, there'll be a special benefit performance featuring Andre Williams and the Gold Stars and special guest John Langford and Skull Orchard. Visit www.zingerman's campbacon.com for more information and for tickets. Once again, that's www.zingerman's campbacon.com.
+
+[55:57] The following is a public service announcement from Just Food. Help bring live chickens into food challenge communities through your donations to the Just Food City Chicken Project 2011. The City Chicken Project would not be possible without the volunteer hours, donations large and small, and the vibrant energy and ideas of the communities we work with. Just Food is a nonprofit organization that connects New York City communities and local and urban farmers with the resources and support they need to make fresh, locally grown food accessible to all. To donate, search on Kickstarter.com for Just Food and find their City Chicken Project.
+
+[56:31] For more information on Just Food, visit JustFood.org or call 212-645-9880. That's 212-645-9880. Let's keep making New York City a better place to live and eat.
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+[0:06] You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com, bringing you the freshest radio in Brooklyn since 2009. Here directly from chefs to farmers, artists to architects, authors to brewers, and everyone in between. Check out all of our shows on our website or by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. Whole Foods Market is a proud sponsor of Heritage Radio Network and the Department of Transportation Summer Streets, a three-day series of events dedicated to healthy active living on the car-free streets of New York City. Join us at the Whole Foods Market City Picnic Area on 24th Street and Park Avenue the first three Saturdays in August.
+
+[0:45] Find more information at the DOT's website, keyword Summer Streets. Oh, you dead. Hello and welcome to Live Cooking Issues. I'm Dave Arnold, the host of Cooking Issues here on the Heritage Radio Network, coming to you every Tuesday, except the last three ones from 12 to 1245. I am in Robert's, uh, but uh Nastasha, the Hammer Lopez, uh, you know, the motor of the Cooking Issues bus, is uh actually gonna call in from North Carolina from the Outer Banks, but I think she's having some technical issues.
+
+[1:34] We'll get her when she comes in. Uh, let me call in all your questions, by the way, all your live cooking questions too. 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. So I'll take the first question first, and that's from Ross McGuire from Dublin.
+
+[1:49] I'm excited to have a uh someone who listens in Dublin. I've only uh managed to go to Ireland once, and I only got to spend a couple hours in Dublin, which is preposterous because from all accounts it's a great city. Uh, and I'm anxious to go back. So uh very excited. Um getting a question from Dublin and was wondering, are we still on?
+
+[2:08] I was wondering if you and Dave are still doing cooking issues. Uh though Nastasha and Dave are still doing cooking issues on Heritage Radio. I pick it up as a podcast and it's become a huge favorite of mine every week. Uh and it's David, we have been a source of inspiration, which we appreciate. Uh Ross thinks he's stuck in Dublin.
+
+[2:21] I would say you're lucky to be in Dublin. Uh and anyway, he's hoping that uh we're coming back sometime soon. Well, here we are. Uh and uh I'll tell you why, Ross, that we haven't been on for the past three weeks. Uh the past three Tuesdays in a row, I have been in transit uh from one place to the other.
+
+[2:39] Three Tuesdays ago, I was flying back from California because uh I was uh lucky enough to go shoot a uh pilot for uh ABC. God knows if it'll ever get get aired. Um but it was a a cooking-based thing where I was a judge. Unfortunately, I'm not allowed to talk about it, except for I will tell you that I have tasted peacock now, whereas I hadn't tasted it before. Peacock, as you might know, was one of the uh animals that was highly prized uh as a foodstuff from the Roman times, perhaps before, but I I know from the Roman times uh up through um the mid you know middle ages, primarily because it's a really amazing looking bird.
+
+[3:17] Because by all accounts, uh it didn't taste very good. It was kind of dry and stringy, especially using the cooking uh techniques of the time. And I have to say, it you know has the ability to become a very tough, stringy bird, but it um from my experience over the past couple weeks can be cooked properly. And then the last two weeks I've been en route uh from and to Florida, where the main uh business I did down there, I did uh actually, if you guys have uh are familiar with the uh truck, you know, the food truck uh explosion that's been going on, one of the best ones uh around is uh gastropod in Miami done by uh Chef Barrum uh Jeremiah Bullfrog, and we did a uh, you know, uh um an event together in Miami where I did cocktails along with uh Chadzilla Croof, if you know that blog, uh, and it was a really good time. Uh but I also went down there with Harold McGee and Nastasha to taste uh exotic fruits and mangoes, and we had some of the most amazing mangoes.
+
+[4:10] We unfortunately, because we were caught in a torrential torrential downpour both days in a row, only got to sample maybe I haven't really counted yet, but maybe sixty to eighty types of mangoes. I usually I like to do at least a hundred uh in a one or two-day tasting, just so you can get the f kind of a full uh variety of different kinds of flavors that a particular fruit can can do. So, you know, when we did citrus, we did a one-day citrus that was over a hundred varieties, we did a two-day apple that was over two hundred varieties, a pear day that was a hundred varieties. You know, I just it's a nice round number because then you could say that you know you've exhaustively tasted at least that many, and you really do get uh you really after the first 40 or 50 get an idea of the range of flavors that can go on. But I had no idea how good a mango can be, because the mangoes that are shipped up to New York uh all go through a process, no matter where they come from, even if they come from Florida, of uh going through a heat treatment to kill fruit flies and any other insects that might be nesting uh in the you know, or you know, whatever they do inside of the mangoes.
+
+[5:10] So they're immersed in hot water, and that hot water can uh kill some of the aromas and also prevent uh the natural ripening process from taking place exactly as it otherwise would have. Um so basically, the mangoes we get can be okay, but they're never gonna be the world's greatest mangoes. So, you know, went to Florida, got them off the tree, and I can in various ripenesses and various flavors. There's there's a couple of different styles of mango, right? They roughly break down into ones that have derived from the Indians uh Indian mangoes, ones that are derived from Southeast Asian, like Thai style mangoes, uh, and then there's a bunch of Florida mangoes that are kind of their own thing that are are are hybrids of those that have been brought in.
+
+[5:50] But also Egyptian mangoes, delicious. So there's uh a wide variety of mangoes, and I hope to have a a blog post on that soon. But I you know, I was amazed at the kind of different flavors that could come out of a mango. There's one that tastes like a creamsickle, many, many that have a like a coconut. I mean, just amazing, amazing stuff.
+
+[6:07] Anyway, oh Nastash is on like hey Nastasha, how you doing? Good, how are you? How are the outer banks? Uh it's actually not that humid down here. I'll give me a break.
+
+[6:17] I'll have you know I've been there. I have I'll have you know I've been there before. But you you you know I would tell you the truth. It's actually not that human. So it's it's not humid.
+
+[6:26] No, I mean not right now. It's it's about eighty-five right now. Yeah, but nothing feels humid when it's eighty-five. Tell me when it gets up to ninety-five degrees. I will I'll check back in and here's what I don't want to know.
+
+[6:37] I don't want to know is it comfortable? That is a useless piece of information to me. I want to know the exact temperature and the humidity because you know, eighty-five degrees, even when it's like a zillion percent humidity, especially because I know you're stepping into an air conditioned uh house when you step into it. So you're like, man, it feels great this air-conditioned house. No, I'm outside right now, I'm on a porch.
+
+[6:57] You're on a porch right now. Yeah, and it's not humid. I mean, there's a little bit of moisture in the air, but not what I was expecting. Well, it's not ninety-five degrees yet. When's it gonna get up to be like nine?
+
+[7:07] Like three, like two o'clock, three o'clock? Alright. So at two o'clock, three o'clock, you know. I wish that everyone could be on the air, so you can call me back. I could hear you gasping for breath while you tell me how not humid it is in the outer banks up there.
+
+[7:20] Okay. Yeah. Super. I mean, look, uh like I say, I've been there and maybe like I happen to be there on the only summer that is so hot and humid that you want to die. In fact, like even the green flies, which suck half of your blood in the thirty seconds that you're outside, if you're out near sunset, we're too tired and lazy to come kill me.
+
+[7:40] But uh I somehow doubt that. Uh-huh. Uh-huh. Anyway. I'll check back with you.
+
+[7:45] Yeah. You have a lot of questions to answer. Yeah, well, I just answered Ross McGuire's question on uh do we still exist? And happily for us we still we still do exist. Okay.
+
+[7:53] So uh by the way, I will re-give you the number in case someone just realized that we are live again. 718 497-2128. That's 718497-2128. But I do have a lot of questions that came in in the interim while we were away. So I'll go right to it.
+
+[8:07] Howard writes in with a question about papayas. I have a question about papayas. I've been eating a lot of papaya lately, which I can't get down with you on this because Howard, because I uh some reason papaya is the one of the fruits that I haven't learned to love. I just I can't it's something about it that's not not me. I love love like like an un unripe papaya as a crunchy element and a salad, things like that, but I haven't uh figured out how to love I don't hate 'em, but I haven't figured out how to love a ripe papaya.
+
+[8:34] What about you, Nastasha? Yeah, I feel the same. But I do I do like the fact that they're good for stomach uh ailments. So well, okay. I mean, you know how I feel about taking things for uh uh food as medicine, you know how I feel about it.
+
+[8:47] But maybe it works, who knows? God only knows, I certainly don't. Okay. I've been eating a lot of papaya lately, and usually uh this is Howard, by the way, not me. And usually I peel and cut up the whole fruit and store it in the fridge.
+
+[8:57] I've noticed that when I get to the bottom of my container, there's always a papaya jelly, presumably made from the papaya juices. Do you know what's going on there? Is there any way this phenomenon can be put to good use, i.e., in a cake, a jello, etc.? Alright, Howard. Because I don't eat a lot of papayas, I didn't have a lot of experience with this, so I had to do myself some research.
+
+[9:15] My first uh thing, you know, theory was you know, that one of the main things in uh papaya that is useful is a a protein, uh protein breaking down enzyme, a protease called papaye, which is used as a meat tenderizer. Now, usually when you break down proteins, um what what happens is is they break gels. You break proteins down and they lose their strength. Except in certain situations, you can partially break down a protein and as actually cause it to gel. And actually, papayene is used in certain tests for that for gelling soy, soy proteins.
+
+[9:46] So uh at first I thought maybe that was what's going on, but then I was like, nah, there's not that much protein in the papaya, and I don't really know how that would work. Then I was thinking perhaps you were getting a low temperature yeast or bacteria in there, and then I was like, meh, no. But then I came across an article that you are going to enjoy called Stability Studies of Papaya pectinac uh pectin esterase. Alright. It is a known fact in uh that papaya has extremely active pectinesterase enzyme in it.
+
+[10:12] I only known about I'd only known about the protein breaking down enzyme, the the papayaine, but and to Nastasha's point, a lot of people take papaya because of it has lots of bioactive molecules in it, more than many fruits, okay? And pectinesterase is a is and a lot of fruits have it, but I guess not in the same quantity and not the same activity. What pectinesterase does is actually joins pectins together, making them bigger, and uh actually, does it do that? No. Does it join them?
+
+[10:38] No, it just strengthens them. I don't think it actually polymerizes them. Ah, who knows? I don't know. But it makes them stronger.
+
+[10:43] And uh what happens is is that um papaya can self-gel based on the activity of this pectin pectinesterase once the uh once the juice has been released from it. I will redo the first paragraph of this. Papaya pectinesterase is a pectic enzyme which has important influence on the quality and stability of processed papaya products. A short period after papaya is pulped into puree, a gel is formed. This gel formation has been attributed to the enzymatic action of pectinesterase by uh Yamamoto and Inue in 1963.
+
+[11:10] Pectinesterase is also of great concern to the citrus industry since it has definitely been established that it can cause clarification of citrus juices and gelation of concentrates, which is interesting to me. I've never thought of using it as a as a way to clarify. Of course, I have I I use the opposite enzyme. I use um I use a uh wait, shoot, pectinesterase. Anyway, yeah, I use I use one that breaks down, I use one that breaks down pectins uh to uh clarify things.
+
+[11:36] But anyway, so that seems to me to be your answer. I don't what it's basically doing is making a stronger pectin uh out of it, a pectin gel. So I don't know that you could use it in cake or jello, but maybe you can make up a pie of juice and have it gel on its own as as a good jelly. I don't know what the texture of uh of it is. But Howard, hopefully this answers your question, and it's very intriguing, something that I might uh study more.
+
+[11:57] Maybe I'll even learn to like papaya. What do you think, uh Nastasha? Maybe. Maybe if we tried a lot of papayas, we'd find one that we like. That's possible.
+
+[12:04] Try a couple hundred papayas. There were a couple down in Florida when we tried that, but you know, I just didn't even look at them. I didn't even bother. You know? You know what's another one?
+
+[12:12] You know what's another one? Here's one that that ticks me off. Guava, right? But people just say people just say guava. I mean, what the hell does that mean?
+
+[12:20] Like the different guavas taste so stupidly different that to just say guava, I mean, it doesn't really make any any sense. Because I'd never been a huge guava person as a fresh fruit. I've had lots of guava juices that I like, but I've you know, I have never been a huge kind of fresh guava person. But then the last two times we visited Florida a taste, we had really kind of interesting guavas, right? Yeah.
+
+[12:42] But like unrelated in taste to each other, right? I mean, some were very acidic, like the cast that we had, some were kind of you know, so lacking in acidity that I found them kind of sweet and insipid. I really hate fruit that just has sweet with no acidity. Do you know what I mean, don't you? Yes, I know.
+
+[12:56] I know you do. Oh, I detest it. Hate it. I would much rather yeah, yeah. Anyway, yeah.
+
+[13:02] I mean I'm that guy walking around eating the unripe berries off of trees and uh hoping I don't die. I don't actually do that. I only do it if I know what the berries are. And getting poison ivy. Getting poison ivy, yes, yes.
+
+[13:13] That's a story for story for later. Okay. Uh Aaron Oster, uh, formerly a salumeria, where is he now? Oh gosh, I don't remember. Another salumi place.
+
+[13:21] Good job, good job. Good job remembering. Anyway, Aaron Oster writes in about round cambros and coffee. I hope all's well. I was seeing you the other day.
+
+[13:28] I'm writing because I have a question for Dave, I think only he can answer, although it's probably not true. Uh is there any advantage for making ice coffee via the 12 to 16 hour steep method in a round cambro versus a square one? A cambro, for all of these who don't use cambros, is basically just either square or round plastic food containers that have marks of like quartz and liters on the side, and they're very common in professional kitchens. Uh, you know, we typically use the four, the seven, and the twenty-two-liter, uh 22 quart cambros uh the most. Uh but they, you know, that's what that's what he's talking about.
+
+[13:58] Anyway, uh wants to know whether there's a difference in using the round or the square. The steep method is the here's the steep method method he uses. Add ground coffee to room temperature, uh add ground coffee to room temperature water stir uh and let it sit overnight at room temperature. Next morning filter the coffee through a super fine mesh, and what you're left with is super rich in deep coffee with all the top notes of the coffee and supposedly less bitterness. This is a study that's been, this is by the way, a type of coffee that's become extremely popular uh over the past you know several years, and a lot of really high powered people are uh investigating it.
+
+[14:26] I know Harold McGee is investigating it, Don Lee is investigating, a bunch of people are investigating it. Uh you want all of the recipes, they all seem to say that they use circular containers. So he's wondering whether the circular versus the round makes a difference. I don't think that it makes a difference in terms of the steep, but I haven't done it myself, so I don't know whether or not the actual filtration becomes uh more or less difficult. And I'll give you a story.
+
+[14:47] When we're using an enzyme to break down the pectin in juices like apple juice and then letting it set down in the bottom of the uh container, what ends up happening is we always use round containers because when you pick up the container and move it to start, you know, decanting the clearer stuff with that doesn't have the particles off of the top. If you have a square container and you pick it up, the corners start mixing the fluid as you turn it. It acts almost like a mixer because the fluid's in a square shape, and as you turn it, right, the corners kind of start moving the fluid. Whereas if you use a round container and pick it up, you can pick it up and spin it, and basically you don't end up stirring the product. You move it very little.
+
+[15:27] So the grounds don't get kicked up, the the particles don't get kicked up off of the bottom. So if you're getting an advantage with this coffee in terms of your filtration by being able to dump relatively clear stuff off of the top before all the particles go into your fine mesh strainer, right, if that's going to increase your filtration efficiently, or perhaps even change the taste of it, right? Then I would definitely recommend going round. Uh, but if you're, you know, stirring it right before you're gonna pour it anyway, right? You haven't let it settle for a long time, and you're not extremely careful to just decant just the top liquid off the top before you start, then I would say it doesn't matter whether it's square around.
+
+[15:59] I don't think it's gonna actually make a difference in terms of how it infuses. It's just a question of how you're gonna pour the liquid off the top. That makes sense. What do you think, Nastasha? Yeah, that makes sense.
+
+[16:12] All right. Now, I have many more questions, but I'm gonna go to my first commercial break and we'll come back and answer them. Calling all your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues. And you'll let's feel it, but confusion.
+
+[16:48] And the world around is coming down. We don't have to be. Yeah. Were you dancing? Oh, you yeah, I was, you know, feet pounding, fist pumping.
+
+[17:40] Was that was that Jack or was that you, Nastash who picked that? No, no, I that was Jack. Nah, nice. Good call. We should let him pick it always.
+
+[17:46] Anyway. Chris Anderson writes in with a vacuum sealing question. Hey Dave, I have a mini pack 31 uh, I guess MVs. He just writes 31X chamber uh vacuum sealer with gas flush. Wow, that's nice.
+
+[17:56] Uh the 31, by the way, is the small unit, which uh, you know, I'm not saying that I'd like to get one for free, but I'd love to get one for free. It's uh I think it's the best uh unit of that size that's available right now because it's very compact, but it has a much larger chamber size uh for its size than the equivalent other small, small units that I've had. I think it's like the best home vacuum unit. Uh you know, or small, small commercial. I mean most restaurants I think would um kind of outgrow it pretty quickly because of its limited size, but for you know, a house it would be perfect hint hint, right, Nastasha?
+
+[18:29] Yeah. Yeah. Uh anyway, uh what gas flush means, by the way, is that um after you seal a vacuum on it, you pull a vacuum on it and you seal it, uh the air comes back in. If you have gas flush, you can fill that bag with an inert gas, usually nitrogen or depending on what you're doing, CO2, whatever, mix different mixes of gas. Uh you know, if you're doing fish and you want to be uh, you know, you want to really ruin everybody, you can put carbon monoxide in there to make it keep red, or if you want to do that to meet, if you want to rip off your customer, you can do that too.
+
+[18:58] Anyway, uh don't do that. Um so but with the gas flush, you can do that, and the cool thing is you can then package things like potato chips, and they don't get crushed because you know, there's extra uh gas in there, but it's totally dry gas. So you're not it's not gonna go stale, it's not gonna oxidize. I mean, it's it's good stuff. Uh anyway, uh I have some uh he has some bulk flour and a few other powder like ingredients that he wants to vacuum seal to prevent oxidation.
+
+[19:24] Uh his concern is that fine particles are going to disperse throughout the chamber, either during the vacuum or during the nitrogen back backfill. Any tips for preventing this? Well, uh you're not gonna have a problem with the powder during the vacuum cycle. I've never uh the only thing I've had even minor problems with was some spray-dried vinegar powder, which is extremely fine and really wants to fly all over the room. Like you can't if you pour it into a container, it like you know, it comes out of the container and chokes you, you know.
+
+[19:50] Uh like uh it's cra crazy stuff. And I vacuum sealed that with only minimal kind of dust issues, uh like hardly any problems uh at all because the vacuum isn't getting like first of all, the the bag is there, the vacuum isn't sucking directly out of the bag, it's sucking uh you know through a hole, which then is dispersed over the entire chamber. So you get very little actual movement of uh particles out of the bag, and it hasn't been in my experience a problem. Here's where the problem happens. When you take a very fine powder and you vacuum it on a high vacuum, uh when you when you let the air back in, the um the stuff gets squashed really flat.
+
+[20:27] Uh and so you can have caking and pelleting problems with the powder, like it forms clumps when you uncut the bag to use it later. And that's been my main problem uh with things like uh transglutaminase or with the vinegar powder is that I get clumping after I've vacuumed. Now, I'm trying to think of a decent way to because what happens when you do a gas flush is the gas comes in via like depending on your unit, like one, two, or three little tubes that are in the bag, and they come in with enough force to really kind of like I've had bags that weren't like uh you know held on properly rocket across the machine uh and you know spray their contents everywhere. So you're gonna want to, and I don't know whether you're gonna be able to get around uh this problem. What I would do is because you need it to go in the bag and not just fill the entire chamber, right?
+
+[21:14] You need the gas to go directly in the bag. You could try to put little diffusers over the front of the gas jets, turn the flow way down and the pressure way down so that you don't get a lot of spray. But you might have a problem doing um doing a gas flush. Now that said, you're only gonna need a tiny bit of gas in there to prevent it from compacting and therefore causing clumps. So you might not need that much gas, but you're definitely gonna need to put uh kind of diffuser plates on it or it's gonna kind of fire across and gonna cause uh problems.
+
+[21:47] Um but you're not gonna have a problem if you don't use any any gas flush on it. He writes on a related note, do you have any experience oh my iPad just turned off? Uh on a related note, do you have any experience with oxygen absorbers that are sold in little packets like desiccants? Do they actually work and are they food safe? All right, uh a couple.
+
+[22:05] I don't have he's talking about oxygen scavengers that act like physically prevent oxidation by being in the package and just having a stronger affinity for the oxygen than your food does. And uh they I don't know whether the particular ones you're looking at are food safe. I've never used them, but they clearly definitely make food safe uh oxygen um, you know, scavenging packets. And I will tell you a story that I probably shouldn't tell you because it was told to me by someone who must have had too much to drink who works for an oxygen scavenging package uh company uh a couple of years ago. Um when I say a couple like eight years ago.
+
+[22:38] They once uh were doing an oxygen scavenging uh package, right? A little paper insert that's that sucked up oxygen for a major candy manufacturer that worked with peanut butter. Let's say Reese's peanut butter cups. Let's just say they were that. I'm not saying they were, but let's just say it was that.
+
+[22:56] Uh and what happened was is they would put these things in to prevent the peanut butter from going rancid, and nobody liked the taste of these Reese's peanut butter cups because uh, you know, they just didn't taste right. You know, they tasted not like Reese's peanut butter cups. And what it turns out is is that the characteristic taste of a Reese's peanut butter cup is due to a certain amount of rancidity in the peanut butter. And so, you know, one person's rancid is another person's Reesus. Now, y I love Reesus peanut butter cups, and I'm sure a lot of uh you out there do as well.
+
+[23:34] You wouldn't necessarily love it if I told you that what you were liking is rancid peanut butter because rancid has a negative connotation. However, um, you know, if you didn't know it was rancid and you just said there was there was like some selective oxidation and aging of the peanut butter to make delicious Reese's peanut butter cups, maybe you'd like it better, but the term rancid is so loaded that uh that has a problem. So, anyway, long story short, they didn't use the oxygen scavenging packaging in the Reese's peanut butter cups anymore because people didn't like it. Um so yes, they are food safe. No, I don't have any uh experience with them.
+
+[24:10] Um from Anonymous. Hello, Anonymous, about sealing vegetables. I recently got an immersion circulator and I'm cooking a lot of vegetables and they're floating to the top. Is there any way to safely keep vegetables under the water so I can get the most out of my machine? I'm assuming uh they mean the vacuum machine, because when you're cooking uh I I don't know ex here's the problem.
+
+[24:30] When you take a vegetable and you put it in a vacuum bag, or even if you try to do it in a Ziploc or whatever, um vegetables have a lot of air on the inside of them naturally, right? So things like carrots, they float in water because there's air. What happens when you seal them in a bag and then cook them and heat them, the air that's in them expands and escapes and inflates the bag. And then the bag floats to the top and does two things. One, it makes it very difficult to have it cook uh evenly because the top of the bag's out of the water and it doesn't get hot.
+
+[24:58] Uh and they also take up a lot of space and they're ungainly on you know, they're pain their pain in the butt. So there's a couple things you can do. If you have a vacuum machine, I recommend sucking a hard, hardcore vacuum on those things. Super hardcore vacuum. If you suck a really hardcore vacuum on it, you might be able to get an and when I say that means whatever the full vacuum is plus an extra 30 seconds, you'll be able to get enough of the air out to uh get them to s sink down to the bottom and stay somewhat near the bottom.
+
+[25:26] They're still going to inflate a little bit when they get really hot. Um another technique you can use, and by the way, when you suck that kind of a hardcore vacuum on it, also any flavor you put into the bag, whether it be oil or with carrots, something like orange juice, will get injected further into the carrot and you'll get more of that flavor uh transfer. Another thing you can do, and this is from Hervé Molivaire, our friend at the French Culinary Institute, is you can take some stainless steel knives and throw them in, you know, or you know, butter knives, uh and throw that that because they're not sharp, uh or s you know, and they're heavier than spoons, and uh throw them into the bag and seal them with the bag and that'll drop your thing to the bottom like a stone, even though it's filling with air if you have enough knives, and he does that all the time. If you don't want it in with your vegetables, you can even seal the knives in like a bottom section of your bag and then seal uh the vegetables on top of it so the knives aren't directly touching. And he does this also when he's wrapping um things like um like uh when we do uh like roulades of meat and we hand roll them in in uh plastic wrap and drop them, those rolls sometimes have a tendency to float.
+
+[26:23] So what he'll do is he'll take uh the roll and he'll roll it in plastic wrap, and then he'll take like five, six butter knives, and depending on the size of the item, and then he'll put those and then he'll roll another layer of plastic wrap around that and around the knives, and bang, those things drop right to the bottom. So it's a really good solution. When you're um but that means that's basically what I recommend. You gotta weigh the thing down. Even with a very high seal on something, uh you're still gonna get some air coming out of the bag at high temperatures, and and you have to cook vegetables at high temperatures, 85 Celsius and above.
+
+[26:56] So it it really it it's a tough problem, but not insurmountable. So you know. Also, you have to cook vegetables if you don't add a lot of liquid to the bag, which you're probably not because otherwise, why are you cooking them in a vacuum bag anyway? Uh you're you know, you're probably trying to concentrate the flavor of the of the vegetable and/or add another one. You have to cook it for a lot longer because uh it takes longer for the um the vegetable to break down even at high temperature in the absence of excess water.
+
+[27:22] Uh okay, so uh Victoria Sen writes in about dehydrated fruit sheets. Hi, Nastashian Dave. I'm planning on making sheets of dehydrated fruits, spices, and seeds. I'd like it not to be uh fruit leather, but to be crispy. I think the recipe I have is going to change the colors.
+
+[27:36] I want to keep the color of the mixes, but also have it uh dehydrated so it's flexible when it's baked, but then shaped and gets hard, similar to a fortune cookie. The base uh that she's using is similar to a twel base, but the problem is the color changes to a dark brown. Is there a recipe or ingredient I can use to keep the color of these mixes after they're dehydrated or baked yet still maintain a crispy textured end product, thanks Victoria? Okay. Uh here's the main problem.
+
+[28:02] Fruit leathers are done at a low temperature, and they always have uh a lot of sugar in them that haven't had all the water driven off because they're done at low temperature. That is why they are always flexible. Okay. The higher temperature products you're doing their twil batters, right, are based on driving off the uh liquid and almost you know turning the sugar into you know, almost like caramelizing the sugar, which is why they're brown, right? Uh along with, you know, if there's any other things that turn brown in it, like milk solids and whatever.
+
+[28:32] And when they are heated, you're basically melting it, and then you can form it, and then you let it cool and it gets hard again, right? That's how fortune cookies work. But that's why they turn brown. So uh one thing I would do uh to change it and still have it be crispy is switch from sugar to isomalt. If you use isomalt, isomalt browns a lot less uh than sugar when it gets cooked up uh to those high higher temperatures.
+
+[28:56] I'd also say you could switch to a non-tual, like almost like uh some of these dehydrated maltodextrin things. Problem is they might not be as flexible when they when they when they dry down. Um what I would like you to do is send me the actual recipe you're using, because I looked up some uh there are some crunchy fruit um fruit sheet recipes out there uh based on you know fruit, isomalt, and maltodextrin. Uh but I don't know exactly the recipe you're using, so I don't I can't really troubleshoot it. But my guess is is that your unf your flexible recipes that don't get too hard aren't cooked to a high enough temperature, and your other ones you're getting browning of the sugar from cooking at a high temperature, and you might be able to solve it by moving to an isomalt, although it will make it less sweet.
+
+[29:41] Uh anyway, so hopefully that helps. And uh give us a call, uh give us uh an email with the recipe you're using, and maybe we can help you even more. Uh in a similar vein, Mike writes in and says, Hello, uh, has cooking issues been taken off the air? No, I have not been uh taking off the air. He misses it.
+
+[29:55] We appreciate that. We're back, don't worry. My question is, how can I help keeping my homemade marshmallows from sticking together after I've cut them and cover them with cornstarch and powdered sugar? He uses a one-to-one ratio of cornstarch and powdered sugar to cover the marshmallows after they're set. Uh he's been using a recipe that he found uh online, and I I wish I could I had it with me.
+
+[30:15] Some reason when I pasted it in the the URL didn't show up, or I'd tell you whose recipe he used. Uh I've increased the size of the recipe 30% to fill a half sheet pen, and I always use a scale to measure, uh, thereby saying he doesn't think it's a problem with the recipe. Do we have any uh help? Okay, the recipe that uh he's following online, which I apologize I don't have the s uh site for because it didn't show up on my on my iPad, um, uses uh as you know most of these do, and it's an egg white and gelatin mixture with uh sugar that you cook up, you know, to candy stage and then you you beat it in the gelatin, the egg white, the sugar, it sets up uh as a foam and then it's cut and or dolloped or whatever, and then put into a cornstarch and sugar uh mixture. Now, if you're if your marshmallows are too wet, right, and you need more structure, you can up the gelatin one, you can, or you can uh increase the cooking temperature of the sugar to a certain point, right?
+
+[31:06] But if you like the texture that you're getting and all you want to do is make it less sticky, right, then what you need to do is work on the coating problem. Now, all marshmallows are too uh syrupy on the inside, really, you know, too um sticky on the inside, uh, you know, to have them not stick if you're actually gonna touch the inside of a marshmallow. Otherwise, it would be the same as the marshmallows that are in, you know, cereal boxes, which are 100% desiccated, right? Although I like those. Do you like those, Nastasha?
+
+[31:32] Yes. Yeah, yeah, me too. Uh I mean they're not really marshmallows. And by the way, I mean, they kind of are. I mean, they're marshmallow-like things, but they're kind of more like little meringue with marshmallow tasting.
+
+[31:43] But some I got addicted to those suckers when I was a kid. And I once called one of those uh cereal companies to see whether I could buy just the marshmallows for a project I was working on. I was trying to make the world's first meat-based breakfast cereal with uh pork rinds. It was called Piggles and Beanies. It was it was sweetened uh pork rinds with uh little pork rind pieces with with bean-shaped marshmallows.
+
+[32:03] And this was, you know, back, you know, I don't know, high school or college or something like that, you know, nineties, early nineties. And uh and uh they would not ship me uh or or let me buy any marshmallows from them. This is before I had enough technical knowledge to do it on my own. Isn't that mean? It's really mean.
+
+[32:18] So mean. I was like, listen, I'll choose whatever the closest marshmallow you have in your like line of like cereal marshmallows to a kidney bean shaped. And uh, you know, this is before I even knew how to make my own pork rinds. I mean, I'm literally like either in college or like right around, you know what I mean? Is like they could have helped me out a little bit.
+
+[32:42] I used to save all the the marshmallows to last in the milk so I could enjoy them. But did you ever like open the box and then break it down into marshmallows and not marshmallows? No, no, no, no, no. Because it was a sandwich for the family, the whole cereal. Oh, well, you know what though, you uh how many people in the family there?
+
+[32:58] Five? Five. Five? They couldn't have bought you your own box of cereal. I mean, look.
+
+[33:06] Okay, okay, look, here's my point. My point is this you have people in the family, they're gonna eat the cereal anyway, right? Right? So if you're gonna eat the cereal anyway, there's gonna be another box of cereal in a week anyway, right? Yeah.
+
+[33:18] Right? So if the total quantity of cereal eaten is the same over a six month period, what does it matter whether each person has their own box or not? It's not like the stuff goes bad in a s in in in a short amount of time. It's not like you're gonna be able to not finish that box of blueberry within like, you know, the six months that it stays good. Yeah, yeah, that's true.
+
+[33:37] Yeah, I'm just saying, you know, in your next life you can bring up that argument. See, that's what I'm good for, Nastasha. I'm good for that kind of logical based argument. That's that's what I'm good at. Okay.
+
+[33:46] So back to the marshmallow problem. Marshmallows are sticky on the inside. So what they are is a problem in control dehydration. You want to just have the outside be dry so they don't stick together. The problem with using a one-to-one powdered sugar and uh cornstarch mixture, and and I read the the the person's recipe online, and the reason they use a mixture is they thought the cornstarch by itself was too chalky on the outside, especially because it's there in a large quantity, right?
+
+[34:12] But the problem with powdered sugar is that powdered sugar is uh gonna suck up moisture from the atmosphere and from the marshmallow, and it's gonna be get tacky on the outside. I just there's no way around it. Like short term it's gonna work, but long term it's gonna cause problems with things getting sticky. That is my feeling. Now, you could try it with uh a straight up cornstarch, but then you might think it's too chalky.
+
+[34:33] I did some research on industrial marshmallow production, uh, Mike, and I have the answer for you. Here's what you're gonna do the next time. I have not tested this, but I am so confident that I'm gonna tell you on the air that this is gonna work because I felt so confident that I uh I can't in fact I might make it sometime soon. Here's what you do you take the marshmallows, right? And you make sure you follow all the recipes.
+
+[34:55] Like another way marshmallows can go bad is if you don't beat them until they're cool, all that, you know, all that nonsense, right? Whatever. Whatever the recipe says, just do it. If because if the recipe works, the recipe probably works. Now, instead of putting it into a mixture of cornstarch and sugar, right?
+
+[35:08] Like a day before you do it, or like a couple hours before you know, day before you do it, bake out some cornstarch in the oven to make sure it's really dry, seal it in quart containers and let it cool down. Right? Now you have dry cornstarch. Take your uh marshmallows, right, and then dust them into pure um into pure powdered sugar, right? Now shake off the extra powdered sugar dust.
+
+[35:30] Now throw them into cornstarch and then let them sit there with the cornstarch on them, right, for like four or five hours up to a day, depending on how much you want to dehydrate the mar the outside layer of the marshmallow. Now, what you're doing is is you're letting the sugar still be the taste thing on the outside, but you're using the cornstarch as a desiccant to desiccate the outside of the marshmallow a little bit so they won't be tacky, but you're not gonna pick up as much cornstarch into the marshmallow itself proper because it already has that protective layer of powder sugar. Huh? Huh? Huh?
+
+[36:03] What do you think? That's good. Apparently that's how the big folks do it. You know, what they do is they they they uh basically do it all under pressure and eject the marshmallow from uh from a tube, it expands automatically, is cut, dropped into powdered sugar, and then uh put into a cornstarch mixture to dehydrate as as it comes out. So I'm thinking that that mic is the way to get your marshmallow problem solved.
+
+[36:28] Uh okay. Paul, hey, should we do one more commercial break? Yeah, we can do a break. All right, one more commercial break. Call in all your questions to 7184972128.
+
+[36:36] That's 784972128 cooking issues. And don't crap. Yo folks mad on the span. Bye and bye. Just move on up.
+
+[37:08] Though you may find from time to time complication. Bite the lip. And take the trip. But there may be let's grow ahead and you cannot slip. The following is a public service announcement from Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[37:45] Tune in to Hot Grease every Monday at 3.30 p.m. Hot Grease strives to bring sustainability, localized sourcing, and other forward-thinking schools of culinary thought to the minds and kitchens of everyday folk. So each week, Nicole Taylor's conversations cover the entire spectrum of food enthusiasts. From internationally renowned culinary masters to moms on a budget looking to impress their tiniest critics. Again, that's every Monday at 3 30 p.m.
+
+[38:12] Hot Grease on the Heritage Radio Network. Hey, welcome back. Hey Jack, that was uh move on up. That's Curtis Mayfield, right? Yeah, move on up, Curtis Mayfield.
+
+[38:25] Good tune. And I like the mixture of the Curtis Mayfield with the hot grease. The song seems to work with the hot grease, right? Yes. Yeah.
+
+[38:32] And I'll tell you something else. I don't care whether you're a mom on a budget or not. Like pick like like pleasing your kids, they are the pickiest little uh pickiest little critics, aren't they? Pain's in that's a that's a tough problem. Anyway, back to the questions.
+
+[38:44] Nastash, are you still with us? Yeah. Awesome. Uh we got a question from Paul K uh earlier today. This is the last question in that we got.
+
+[38:53] Uh and it's not really a question so much as a comment. Uh it's kind of funny. Uh hi, Nastasha. I thought I'd bring this article about human-derived gelatin to Dave's attention, perhaps for the radio show. I'd like to hear his thoughts.
+
+[39:03] Uh and basically what it is, it's a it's a new article called New Strategy for Expression of Recombinant uh hydroxylated human-derived gelatin. Um just came out. Uh so basically it's it's they what they do is they take uh the our genes, human genes for producing uh gelatin, you know, collagen, I guess, or gelatin, and they uh inject it into a yeast. Uh, you know, they they put it into a yeast, and then they grow the yeast, and the yeast then just makes a hyperabundance of uh you know, human-style gelatin, but you know, obviously it hasn't come out of a human. No humans were killed for the gelatin.
+
+[39:39] Uh, you know, anyway. So it's like that's that's what they're doing. Uh I'd like to hear his thoughts. My first thought is if recombinant technology allows greater quality control, why not use animal gene derived recommon gelatin to avoid the controversy and creepiness. I think the allergy thing is a bit of a red herring.
+
+[39:53] So the reason uh the the point here is that the reason they're using human-derived gelatin for this is they're trying to think of uh they're they're now looking at food applications for it, but originally this is for things like gel caps for medicine, and the idea being that there is less poly uh less of a possibility of a human um immune response to gelatin that's derived from human tissue than from um then from animal tissue. I think it's probably a red herring. I think that if it's actually a pure gelatin protein, you know, you know, pure gelatin, that it's not gonna have a lot of other extraneous stuff on it that I I mean maybe there's a difference, but maybe there's not. I haven't read any studies on how many people are allergic to gelatin. Maybe there's a lot, but I don't know.
+
+[40:39] Uh I I haven't really uh I didn't really have the the chance to look into it. Um but the idea that we can have because gelatin is is freaking fantastic, right? And there's a whole uh there's a whole group of people, vegetarians, uh you know, who won't eat gelatin. So you know whether like the idea of a recombinant gelatin, whether it be you know bovine derived or human derived, uh, you know, the strain of it, uh I think would be awesome because there's certain things that gelatin does better than anything else. Marshmallows, for instance.
+
+[41:10] Now you can use carrageenin, uh mixture of carragenin and uh you know uh locust bean and or other things gum to produce a marshmallow. Uh but gelatin is really, really good. Also for jello. Gelatin is really, really good. And now can you approximate jello using things like carragenin?
+
+[41:29] Yeah. But you know you know is gelat gelatin is still kind of the reigning monarch of uh taste in you know hydrocolloids. Like we maybe it's because it's traditional and has been for so long that we just grew up loving it. But it's um it's good stuff. So if they could make one uh that was price competitive uh and also had very consistent quality 'cause another problem with uh regular gelatin is it's of differing qualities depending on the source where it was derived from how basically hydrolyzed, how broken down the proteins are.
+
+[42:01] And that's why you have different bloom strengths of gelatin, because they're a naturally derived product, and gelatin from a fish doesn't work the same as gelatin from a you know a pig skin or you know, animal you know, cow bones or whatever. So they're all different. And the processing uh makes them all different. And so this is you know gives the possibility of having a very consistent uh gelatin product where no animals are harmed. And I think it'd be interesting.
+
+[42:26] A real question is, would a vegan use it? What do you think, Nastasha? Would a vegan use it? I mean, like question is like what is like why like what in other words, like what would be the if you were a vegan, would you use it? I mean, I would think you could, but I don't I don't know, right?
+
+[42:41] What do you think? I don't know. I really don't know. I don't I can't think like a vegan, you know. I think that's that's the the issue.
+
+[42:48] Yeah. Uh anyway, I'd like to hear from some vegans and see whether or not they would be willing to use uh, you know, so because you wouldn't have to harm the animal to get the the DNA for it, right? You could just take a blood sample from a human or from whatever, get the gene, uh, you know, and do it. I mean, I think that um be interesting problem. I don't know.
+
+[43:09] Um but uh definitely I think has a lot more commercial application than the poop derived meat analog. Uh I knew you were gonna go there. Well, didn't we bring this up on the radio a couple weeks ago? Somebody asked about it. Didn't we talk about it?
+
+[43:24] You didn't talk about it. I'm pretty sure you didn't talk about it. At least and I've done every show with you. We didn't talk about the well, it was a big thing on the internet, so I'm sure a lot of you guys have uh heard about this. Uh his crew in Japan was recycling sewage into uh meat analogs, and uh people are making much hay out of it on the internet, but I don't really know enough to comment other than it's fun to say poop meat, right?
+
+[43:48] I mean uh okay. So uh as some of you might know, um I do uh a you know a a little thing for eater, like you know, once every week or once every two weeks or something uh and the recently they've had uh some they've started getting chefs to ask me some questions but Nastasha I don't know at this point whether they're gonna let me answer the rest of Michael Iskonis's the Yes they they want to know they wanted to know today when you're gonna answer the rest but that's for after the show. But the question is should I just answer one now online and then and then and then because there's really only one that I really want to answer more than the ones I've already answered. I could just answer that one now and and then talk to Michael about it and then do a new chef for for them. What do you think?
+
+[44:29] I think they're kind of waiting for the the answers to be answered online. Alright so I'm gonna answer Michael Iskonus's questions on malt which I think are very very interesting. So you take barley. I'll talk about it a little bit now and then I'll write about it. You take barley uh and you grow it you germinate it right and then you kill the uh you kill the growing uh germ the kill the growing sprout on the inside before it pops out of the actual barley and what you're doing there is activating all of the enzymes the alpha and beta amylases being the primary ones and and those enzymes then you when you kill it you gotta make sure that you kill it in such a way that you leave the enzymes in there.
+
+[45:16] And then what you do is you grind it up and you steep it you know at different temperatures and the temperature of the mash that you do the way you steep it is what makes different kind of beers different along with how the malt is made and how it's kilned and how you know what flavors are derived there. But anyway, it's the active enzymes in it that uh allow you to convert the starch from barley, or if you're you know adding other things to it like rice or whatever, that allow you to convert that starch to alcohol, right? Uh sorry, to sugar, which then you use east yeast to convert to alcohol. So the primary function of malt is uh the function of it is to produce these enzymes that can break break starch into sugar. Uh now how the malt is treated it is makes it widely diff, you know, different in how much enzyme there is and also in the flavor of the malt itself.
+
+[46:07] It's a really tricky process. And and m most beer people, many beer people I used to do all grain, meaning I don't I used all my own grains and everything, but very few people make their own malt because it's uh I don't know why, very few people do it. Uh so malt is a very interesting subject. Now, when most people are baking with malt, they're either using uh like diastatic malt, which they're adding to uh bakery products, and what that is is malt that still has the active uh stuff in it, but it still has the active enzymes in it, and they do that to break some extra starch into sugars for yeast as a yeast food or a bacteria food in a starter. Um but when you when I say malt to someone as an ingredient, what I'm thinking of is dry malt extract.
+
+[46:49] And what that is is you take the malt and you then uh convert all the starch to sugar using it with all the great flavors of malt. Like think Malta, the beverage malta, malt beverage, like that malty flavor, and then uh they before they let it ferment, they dry it out into a powder. And so if you're if you're doing what's called extract brewing, you take dry malt extract or still a liquid version of that extract, and they have amazing tastes. Malt tastes amazing. Uh and that powder is an incredible, incredible ingredient.
+
+[47:20] Uh, which, you know, you can use not just to make beer, but you can use it as a sweetening multi-agent in things that's great in mashed potatoes. Like I I've all used to make malt mashed potatoes all the time, not with like the malted milk ball stuff, but with dry malt extract direct from a brewing shop. Uh, and you can get these if you have a homebrew shop anywhere. Our Whole Foods here in New York City and Manhattan and Lower Manhattan uh Bowery has dry malt extract, but it's a fantastic ingredient. So I'll write a little more and probably a little less stream of consciously uh consciousness uh about malt when I answer Michael Scottness's other questions.
+
+[47:50] Uh we we will be back next week. We hope not to have another three-week period where I'm flying around like a lunatic from place to place, and we apologize for any inconvenience we may have caused. Cooking issues vision all you did. Got me on this corner and I don't know where I'm at. Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[48:24] You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening. Got me on this corner.
+
+[48:49] Saturday, Saturday, Saturday, Saturday, Saturday, Saturday, free pizza by Roberta, July 23rd. But twick block party, block party, it's a party in the Legendary Mad Dog Toast though. Photo Booth by Ryan Slack. Waterworld closed by Chimeradactyl, Mary Meyer, or Mogart! Duck Killer asphalt resistant genes.
+
+[49:16] All kinds of food for your face. Sweet soda pie. PA Ricurda's Bakes. Heritage Food Foods. Orancini Eating Contest by the Orangini Brothers.
+
+[49:29] Live music by Alex Truchin. Florida Paper Twin. Dang Side. Another team Rose Pierre. Wild Yap.
+
+[49:37] MC Todd and Bo Breezy. Night Show. Yeah, yeah. Sponsored by Martin Greenfield Clother. Free Fitness Studio.
+
+[49:46] Heritage Radio Network. Free Williamsburg. Six point beer. Momo. Sushi Shack.
+
+[49:52] Beerbox USA. Planet of the Bates. Bushwick Block Party. It's a party in the street. All day long.
+
+[50:01] Finger on the Pole and City Winery are proud to present the Summer Barbecue Blowout Festival, August 6th, from noon to 4 p.m. The barbecue is happening at City Winery, located at 155 Varrick Street in New York City. Restaurants featured at this event are Empire Mayonnaise, Van Dag, Momo Fuco Mo Bar, Imperial Number Nine, My Land, Mexico, Craft, Dizzy's Club, Coca-Cola, The Meatball Shop, and Dose Torres. Providing the soundtrack for the day are Midnight Magic, Pewter Magic, New Villager, Punches, Ducky, DJ Autobot, and the Snacky Tune DJ. VIP and general admission tickets are available at CityWinery.com.
+
+[50:39] Finger in the pole for City Wine, we'd like to thank our sponsors, Heritage Foods USA, New York Magazine, Rake of vodka, Sonar, Smile, Guilt City, Sub Zero and Wolf. Please come out and join us for a day of fun, food, and dancing. For more information, go to www.fotpnyc.com. This is behind the scenes food news with Katie Kiefer. AMP goes local.
+
+[51:13] The Great Atlantic and Pacific Tea Company, commonly known as the AMP, that grocery chain you've seen all your life, has glommed onto the concept of local and sustainable and has just introduced a new consortium of producers known as the Mid Atlantic Country Farms, from which they will source beef and poultry. The animals are antibiotic and hormone-free, raised on vegetarian feed. There is no mention of certified humane or animal welfare approved uh status, however. Maybe they haven't gotten that far in the marketing department. But what makes this of interest is that AMP supplies all AMP supermarkets, Pathmark, Food Emporium, Waldbaums, and Super Fresh.
+
+[51:48] These are not particularly high-end supermarkets, so this is good news for the average consumer. If you want to read more about this, you can go to the AMP website, which is www.apt.com slash pressroom. This has been behind the scenes food news with Katie Kiefer.
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+[0:00] On the Heritage Radio Network in a few moments. Stick with us. Hey, we're cloud control. And you're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com, bringing you the freshest radio in Brooklyn since 2009.
+
+[0:28] Here directly from chefs to farmers, artists to architects, authors to brewers, and everyone in between. Check out all of our shows on our website or by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. The following program has been brought to you by Barter House Wines. For more information, visit www.thebarterhouse.com. Hello.
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+[1:01] Can't hear myself. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, the host of Cooking Issues, coming with you every Tuesday live from 12 to 1245 on the Heritage Radio Network. Here in the studio today with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, bringing the hammer to all of you that step out of line, although they never do, do they? No, they never do.
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+[1:16] No, it's crazy. Alright, call in all of your questions to 718497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. By the way, today's show brought to you by the Burger House, some of our favorite people in wine distribution. Something I'm sure all of our listeners know, but probably don't, is that um I'm extremely lazy, so I find it difficult to memorize the names of any kind of wines that I like, or you go into a store and you find a wine and you don't uh you know you don't really know what to get.
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+[1:43] All you need to do, seriously, is memorize the name of like five or ten distributors that you like that you know bring in uh interesting products, and then you can look on the bottom uh back of the bottles, find a distributor you enjoy, and uh odds are you might have a winner. Anyway, uh a little tip from me to you on how to buy wine when you don't know what you're doing. Alright, our first question comes in from Paul Peterson, who is a researcher at the Humane Society of the United States. I Googled him. Uh, and uh he had a comment on last week's uh gelatin uh issue where we we were talking last week about uh the possibility of using recombinant DNA technology to produce gelatin without having to kill a bunch of animals.
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+[2:19] And the reason to do this is because gelatin is awesome. Uh and it's also used in things like uh gel capsules, it has very a lot of very good properties. Uh gelatin's great. Anyway, uh he has a comment on it. He says um uh the whether or not a vegan would uh use the question is would a vegan use this?
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+[2:36] Uh and he says the answer he thinks is it depends on the individual. Uh there's a similar though much more vexing project uh to harvest meat cells from an animal and grow them in a bioreactor, thus to create meat without harming the animal, uh, with other potential side benefits like it might cause less pollution uh than conventional farming, etc. Uh and uh he points me to uh I forget the name of it, it's called like meatharvest.org or something like that, harvesting meat dot whatever. Anyway, uh, because for some reason, hey, iPad people, uh, figure out a reason why they the uh URLs get stripped out of my stuff when I put it on my iPad anyway. Uh there are some vegans who are fine with and prefer this technology, this artificial, well, this cultured meat technology, while others uh would abhor such a thing.
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+[3:18] Basically, uh Paul thinks it comes down to whether uh why one is truly vegan. What some simply want to create the least suffering, in which case they probably use the cultured meat, and some just uh detest animal products uh a priori and they would uh object to the technology. I think uh I basically agree. I would object to the technology because uh straight up I doubt that it would be delicious. I mean, unless you could literally cut culture the muscle uh exactly as it appears in my favorite piece of beef, you know what I mean?
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+[3:48] I doubt that I would like meat that's made in a bioreactor the same way that I like meat that's made on an animal. Do you know what I mean? It's like we think about it this way. Um how much of a difference is there between the most delicious piece of beef that you've ever had, right, and crap hole, you know, third rate beef that you get in a uh in you know, in like a low rent supermarket. There's a big difference, right?
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+[4:18] Mustafa, what do you think? Yeah, absolutely. Yeah. Uh so I mean, my my point is is that you know, I'm always shooting for ultimate delicious on a product. And so, uh, and I think this is my problem with mo most meat substitutes in general, is that what they're substituting for is kind of the chewy texture of meat, right?
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+[4:39] And when I say that, I mean overcooked meat. They're usually shooting at overcooked meat, right? Kind of like, you know, tough, uh, you know, a little bit chewy. And then they try to substitute in meat-esque flavors, and by that I mean usually protein breakdown products. So you're putting in uh like nutritional yeasts, you're putting in uh broken down soy uh compounds, anything like uh compounds like soy sauce, things like that.
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+[5:01] Anything that are gonna contain um you know free amino acids that are gonna give some of that umami nature, and then also they typically substitute in some sort of browning or some sort of smoking to mimic uh those kind of flavors that we get out of meats. But really, these are kind of only the externalities of meat. You know, I mean, meat is so many other things. It's the different muscles, it's the way the grains are uh align, different muscles, it's the way the fat is placed within them, it's the particular characteristics of the fat based on what the animal was eating. It's it's many, many things.
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+[5:33] I mean the uh the the flavor of meat isn't some sort of monotonic thing that can be uh recreated in a uh bioreactor. Now I mean that said, I mean if it that I I'm gonna assume the technology could some point get so sophisticated that it could literally grow uh you know a a ribeye. I just don't see that happening anytime soon. I see uh perhaps some sort of actual meat meat analog that uh functions better than many meat replacers on the market today but I just don't see you know my most delicious um you know aged pea aged uh ribeye steak uh that you know that I cook sous vide and sear over like a f you know fiercely hot charcoal fire and then uh and then drizzle it with uh mull uh with uh you know my favorite uh Tuscan or Sicilian olive oil and sprinkle it with salt I just don't see that coming out of a bioreactor anytime soon. What about you, Nastasha?
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+[6:28] I agree. Yeah you're talking to the microphone your face towards the window I agree. Yeah there you go. She's only been doing the radio show for a year and a half folks don't don't mind her that she can't face into a microphone when she's talking. Anyway Paul has a question he says he was a uh curious whether I uh what experience I have with cooking Satan which is basically Satan's uh wheat uh wheat gluten that is then formed into a dough and is uh typically cooked in a liquid where it absorbs the flavor from the liquid uh and then is uh sliced and then either sauteed, fried, stewed, whatnot as a as a meat substitute.
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+[7:00] And it's a traditional meat substitute in uh in you know parts of Asia. Hasn't uh really caught on here to the extent that uh I think it should. Many people use it instead, like they're saying, well, Satan's a much better meat replacer than tofu. I say you're both wrong. Uh tofu is tofu and it's delicious and should be used like tofu is, and you shouldn't buy crappy supermarket tofu that's had all of its flavor leached out and it's been sitting there for a billion years in uh in a whole crap load of water.
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+[7:26] I think that stuff's you know vile and useless, except as a flavor carrier. And seitan, I think also needs to be explored for its own sort of properties instead of just being a straight up uh meat substitute. Uh anyway, Paul says, uh, do I have any preferred cooking method, boiling versus brazing? Uh I would add pressure cooking is a good uh cooking technique for it. Unfortunately, I have not uh and you also wants to know whether I've experimented with it cooking a sous-vid, i.e.
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+[7:48] in a vacuum bag. Uh uh I unfortunately haven't experimented with Ceyton in many, many years. I've only played with making it a couple of times, uh, and it was you know years before I really got into cooking sous- vide. It's an interesting idea. Uh I don't know that you get a benefit from uh cooking sous vide though, because you're cooking typically at a high uh temperature anyway.
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+[8:10] I don't know that you'd get a benefit from cooking the wheat gluten at a lower temperature uh below uh boiling point or substantially below boiling point. Uh I think you might get some textural benefits from, like I say, cooking in a pressure cooker because then you could get some expansion when you release the pressure. Um you might be able to get some infusion by going sous vide, but you can fuse anyway with the stock. The stock permeates the Ceyton as it's cooking. One advantage to cooking sous vide that I could think of off the top of my head is if you had a very expensive ingredient that you wanted to infuse into the Ceyton and cook it that way, you could cook it in a very, very small amount of uh liquid.
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+[8:43] So if you had some expensive flavor or something you didn't have very much of, you could probably bag the Ceyton in the thing uh and then cook it that way. But I would not use a high vacuum because then you're gonna be compressing it and just and uh altering and/or destroying the texture of the Satan. If you use a very high vacuum, it's gonna be dense and rubbery. So I would almost do it in a ziploc bag rather than sous vide. I would I probably would never do it uh sous vide.
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+[9:04] Uh and are there any other vegetarian proteins that benefit from sous vide? Uh again, if you you know you can compress things, uh, you know, get rid of the air cells in in things with sous vide, which might be uh, you know, to firm up tofu or whatnot, but that's really more of a water expelling issue. So I can't think off my head of any vegetarian proteins that would benefit from sous vide, other than possible textural changes and infusion uh techniques because uh the low temperature aspect of sous vide is not really necessary for vegetarian proteins. Anyone who thinks I'm a jerk and wants to call me out on that, please do, because I'd like to know some good applications. What do you think, Nastasha?
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+[9:38] Yeah. Yeah, yeah. All right. Into the microphone at time. Nice, nice.
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+[9:41] Okay. Ross McGuire from Dublin, Ireland writes in again about green vegetables. Ross says, I recently came across a Spanish vegetable uh stew type dish, minestra, made from fresh vegetables, artichoke, broad beans, w runner beans, and white asparagus thickened with flour, is a fantastic shade of green. From what I managed, the gr uh from what I managed to glean the artichoke when cooked in water changes to a strong Viridian green, nice call, Veridi. Only only an Irish dude could come out with like the awesome shade of green, right?
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+[10:08] Viridian green color, uh, along with the water, which is interesting, which is what gives the soup its strong pigmentation. Do you know what the cause of this color change is and how one might go about achieving it? Also, are there any other examples of that kind of natural color change which could be used to good effect in the kitchen? Cheers. Okay, uh cheer, cheers, Ross.
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+[10:25] Anyway, uh well, that's interesting. Uh as far as you know, I'm used to minestra is like soup in uh Italian, where it's the same word for soup as for as zupa. So you could use zippa, you can use minestra, I guess as opposed to like broto, which is more of a broth, right, Nastasha? Yeah. Okay.
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+[10:42] So uh I don't know of any uh Spanish recipe that goes by the name uh minestra, but this uh coming from an idiot who hasn't researched it. Uh but uh so I can't say it. But uh also uh you know you can make then let's just say minestra is a soup, you can make it from uh any sort of mix of anything you want. So we're so what we're dealing here with is a soup or stew of artichoke, broad bean, runner bean, and white asparagus that's then thickened with with uh flour. And it comes out uh green.
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+[11:11] Now, typically when you cook a green here, here's what happens with green things in general when you cook them, right? First of all, the interesting thing you say is that uh the water turns really green. Uh chlorophyll is not water soluble. So typically, right, and what what's happening is is uh the majority of chlorophyll is not gonna leach out into the water. And chlorophyll is what makes these things green, okay.
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+[11:32] So what what happens is if we the reason why chlorophyll is not soluble in water is that it's got this long kind of hydrocarbon chain that comes off off that's uh hydrophobic. It wants to be soluble in oil, which is why things like uh you know uh uh basil oil and and things like that are such nice bright green, because we can extract a lot of the chlorophyll into the oil because it's water soluble, uh oil soluble soluble rather. So here's what happens when you cook. You stick stuff in boiling water, if there's any acid, uh, and I guess also McGee says alkali can make it happen, you can uh break off uh that hydrocarbon chain, and now the the residual part, which is still green, is leached into the water. Okay.
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+[12:08] Now in the center of the of the main part of chlorophyll, the really the business center is a magnesium ion. And uh in in water, uh, with the action of heat, and especially in if there's acid, right, that magnesium ion gets kicked out and uh replaced with hydrogen, and what you get is that kind of dark uh greeny, almost olive uh drabier bluish, a bluish color uh of the chlorophyll after that's been happening. So that's the major color change that happens in most uh in most vegetables as they cook, or as I should say as they overcook. Which is why we say you can add a little bit of baking soda to uh something, and your vegetables will turn mushy, but they'll go bright green, right? Bright green.
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+[12:47] Uh because you're you're basically what happens is when you put the vegetable in, all of a sudden you know, uh the the light couldn't come out of the vegetable very well because there's air sacs, the chlorophyll might be contained and stuff. So that there's basically the the color is muted. You throw it into water, and boom, you know what I mean? It um it it the cells are broken, the water penetrates, and now all of a sudden the green really pops, it really pops out. So I don't know whether or not uh the color you're describing is some mixture of cooked and I mean otherwise uh you know, chlorophyll that has magnesium taken out and some that hasn't, some that's become water soluble due to the action of cooking.
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+[13:23] I just can't tell. You'd have to send me a picture of your soup so I can uh see what's what's going on. Uh another thing you can do, uh it could be toxic, so please don't poison your guests, uh, other than baking soda, which actually Nastasha baking soda would work really well in a soup, because what you could do is you could add baking soda, cook your soup uh down until it's to death, it'll go bright freaking green, stay bright green on you, and then at the last minute, correct it with acidity, which will take out kind of the baking soda flavor and bring the soup back, you know, and once the temperature is a little bit lower, so it's not going to color change on you. Might be an interesting thing for you to try if you haven't tried it before. The other thing you can do is you instead of replacing the magnesium with copper, you can place uh I mean sorry with hydrogen, you can replace it with copper, and it gets a crazy ass.
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+[14:05] You know those olives that are like that hyper bright green? Yeah. Like not the olives like manzanilla, but the hyper bright, like cherry, some chariolas are hyper bright like that. I think, not sure, could be making this up, could be lying. I think that they add a little, probably lying.
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+[14:14] For those of you listening, probably a lie. Uh that's the same color that's produced by uh uh taking the chlorophyll and replacing the magnesium with copper. And so uh you can do that, but too much copper is uh what's the word I'm looking for? Poisonous! Poisonous, but uh small amounts of it aren't.
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+[14:32] So anyway. Uh and so what are some other things that you can do uh to change colors? Well, another one, going back to McGee, uh who uh we were hanging out with at Tales of the Cocktail last week. If I get time to talk about it, I'll talk about it. Probably won't get time.
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+[14:44] Uh especially if some of you suckers call in to 718-497-2128 with a question at 747288. Um garlic and onions can turn interesting shades of blue and green uh when they're cooked very slowly. Uh and the very first uh curious cook column that uh Harold McGee put into the uh New York Times, it's gotta be like four years ago now, three or four years ago, uh one of the things he treated was this fact that sometimes uh if you puree onions and garlic or just cut up garlic and uh cook it very slowly, uh it can turn green and blue. And what's happening is is that uh some some molecules, in fact, some of the ones that make make it pungent, you know, some of these uh sulfur compounds can uh get altered by enzymes that are native to the onions in the garlic, and uh then combine together into larger molecules, because typically larger molecules are pigmented, you know, or you can see them as opposed to smaller molecules, which are usually uh colorless. Anyways, uh so the uh not always, usually.
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+[15:41] Uh so what happens is they combine and they get these kind of like shocking blue and greens. And so anyone out there who's done any low temperature cooking, let's say you were to put a steak with garlic and butter in a bag and cook it at 55 Celsius for two hours, you'll notice the uh some of the garlic is going to turn kind of uh bluish or greenish. And this is something that you can do. And I've done actually, we've made uh blue garlic soup using uh I think it was blue, blue or green. I can for I can't forget, like onions turn green and garlic turn blue, or the other way around, and you can sh and you can alter the color by combining the different amounts of onion and garlic.
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+[16:12] Anyway, if you take a puree or even just slices of onion and garlic, you stick them in a bag, and you cook it at like 55 degrees for uh like an hour. The stuff's gonna turn bright colors on you. You can then uh pressure cook it to neutralize uh some of those flavors so it's not too strong, and then you can use it in large quantities and still have the color changed item to uh serve. Uh if you don't cook it uh in a pressure cooker afterwards, and the color does stay by the way, I've done it, uh, then you're in for a world of freaking hurt because if you can see that color, if it's a brightly colored puree, please don't go anywhere near your family or friends for the next week and a half. The other one that I could think of off the top of my head is that you can uh use uh if you have a blood-based thing, and Nathan Miravold, Chris Young, and Maxime Bilet all in the modernist cuisine uh cookbook cookbooks, the mega opus.
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+[17:00] Uh and when is he coming on by the way? When's Miravold coming on? The third week of August. All right, in the third week of August, Nathan Miravold's gonna call into the show. So none of you chumps miss that stuff.
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+[17:10] Call in to Nathan Miravold in the third week. What country am I gonna be in? You'll be here. I'll be here. Awesome.
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+[17:17] Call in to here, and you, our cooking issues listeners, are gonna get the opportunity to personally ask Nathan Mirvold a question. Now, bear in mind, Nathan Mirabol, he might he might tear into it. Depends on what you ask. I mean, you know, you know. Yeah, he's he's an opinionated guy.
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+[17:33] It should be interesting. Uh, I'm excited, I'm super excited, super looking forward to it. So get your questions ready for the Mirvold thing. And I think, hey Jack, we can go an hour on mil uh an hour on Mirvold Day, right? Oh, yeah.
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+[17:44] Oh, yeah, okay. Uh the other one I was thinking of from their cookbook is you can take blood and hit it with carbon monoxide, the same stuff that you use if you're gonna suck a tailpipe, the sad stuff, carbon monoxide. If you take carbon monoxide and hit it to um to meat, it's it goes incredibly bright red. There's there are two uh there are two small children looking in the studio window right now who are incredibly curious about the radio thing. Trust me, kids, it's not that interesting.
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+[18:09] Anyway, uh so uh and this is how they make their uh rare beef jus, where they cook uh beef in a bag and they can optionally hit it with carbon monoxide to get a really, really right bread, uh bread color. Uh you can also use this to rip off consumers by hitting meat with carbon monoxide to make it look bright red even though it's spoiled. And Ken Kirshenbaum bought a piece of meat. Ken Kirshenbaum uh the polymer chemist and our buddy from the experimental cuisine collective at NYU bought a piece of meat and basically kept it out of a fridge, uh turning uh, you know, awful uh for weeks and stayed a nice bright red color because of the carbon monoxide they so nicely put into the container for it. He hates that.
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+[18:45] He thinks it should be outlawed. Let's take a break. Not yet. Uh because that goes into this one question Aaron Smith called in on blood basting. How Nastash, you know, only you could ruin such an awesome segue from going from changing the color of blood by adding carbon monoxide into a blood based basting question.
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+[19:04] You y this Nastash will always do this. You know what? If you're about to buy Nastasha a Christmas present or birthday present, don't. Because what's gonna happen is is five seconds, literally five seconds before you try to buy her something or get her something, like a glass of water if she's thirsty, she will ask you for it and ruin the opportunity for you to get it for her. That is a lot of information you're giving away, right?
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+[19:25] Yes, it's a lot of information, but it's true, and it might be helpful to some of our listeners should they ever meet you. Anyway, uh Aaron Smith writes in with a blood basting question. Hi, uh love the show, and I'm thrilled that you're back from your break. I was looking through an old French cookbook, uh, the uh Lavarins Cuisinaire Frossay uh and from 1653, and notice an interesting instruction when roasting a pig like a boar. The recipe is you may disguise the boar, uh you may disguise the pig uh near to a boar.
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+[19:49] That is, after you have beaten it well, you shall endure it with blood. I don't know whether it's endor or endure. For me, uh well, we'll get into this. And uh and after a while, stick it, spit it, and not forgetting to uh I think I say endure, even though I don't know. Uh feet with blood before it's roasted, serve it as a boar with sauce or without it.
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+[20:05] Uh and then uh Aaron puts down that the definition of uh endure is to wet daub uh some liquor as one doth a pie or cake before it's put into the oven. So basically a pig is basted with blood before it's roasted on a spit, and um Aaron was interested in what the blood might be doing. It has uh and I'm saying I'm keep saying your name a lot because I'm not sure if this is Guy Aaron or girl Aaron. Aaron. With an E or an A?
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+[20:26] E. Oh. Can't tell. Can't tell. Don't know.
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+[20:30] Anyway, um sorry about my lack of knowledge on that. Anyway, so uh I was curious about what's going on. It has sugars and amino acids, so it could be acting as a browning agent. I know a touch of glucose in picking duck can lead to beautiful browning because glucose is a reducing sugar, which you use to generate the myard reaction, uh along with proteins and amino acids. Uh the Google search led to Julia Child's description of pressed duck, where the duck is basted in blood sauce while it's being roasted.
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+[20:53] Uh and so is this a standard method that's fallen out of flavor? Have I ever basted with blood or done uh in my pressed duck adventures? And want to know what was going on. Um okay. Well, uh, and this is and Aaron's from San Diego.
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+[21:07] Um so listen. As far as I know, uh I'm gonna say endure, even though it might be endour, is a technique not just for basting blood or going on pies, was a standard technique for coating things with different colors in uh medieval times. So as a presentation trick, for instance, if you're making a cock and trice, which is a bird, uh, you know, the back end of a bird glued under the front of a pig, right? You would take the seams and whatnot on the outside and you would endure it with different mixtures that would kind of form a crust and also color it to make it look more fanciful, right? Um and then tip you know, typically you would set that by then baking it uh or roasting it.
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+[21:44] Now uh when I make a pressed duck, I don't uh what you know what we what I always did in the recipes I have, and I think this is the way Tour d'Arjon, the restaurant does it, is they they take the duck uh that's been strangled so the blood doesn't go out or suffocated, and then they press the blood and juices out, then the blood becomes uh a thickening agent for the sauce that you use. Then when you cut the and the the meat's already been par roasted, then you cut off the breast slices and you reheat them in the sauce, uh, and then the sauce thickens up, etc. etc. So I don't know of any recipe where you then baste it and roast it again. It's more kind of just a reheat uh with the slices.
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+[22:20] There's famous recipes uh for like civet, like or civet, I guess I don't know how you pronounce it in French, of uh rabbit or jugged hair, which is the way uh US person would say it that uses the blood of the hair as a thicking agent but the last at the last part of the sauce because it will then uh thicken up and can curdle and break. Nils Norren says in Sweden they have a famous blood soup that's made from gooseblood that uh is cooked for a long time, I think with acid to stop it from coagulating too much. Um, so there is a long history of this, but the idea of using it as an outer coating, I would think that it would set and then uh and then congeal with the heat and then maybe crust up as it dries out, but I don't know what it would uh taste like. Uh it doesn't gross me out. I mean, blood, meat, it's all part of the animal.
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+[23:03] If the animal, unless you look, unless you're kosher, in which case, you know, don't eat the blood because the blood is the life, and uh, if you do, you know, a curse on your people, you shall be cut off from your people, etc. etc. But unless it's like religiously uh barred for from you, uh, for you from having it, I think it's a waste to throw it away because you know, the you done killed the animal anyway, uh, might as well use everything you can. I mean, I think that's more modern way of looking at it. So I, you know, but I this other thing.
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+[23:29] Why is it inherently more gross, Nastasha, to eat the blood or any weird part of the of the animal? Why is it more inherently gross than any other part? Like, why is like couldn't we culturally be raised, be like, oh my god, the loin? Gross. Right?
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+[23:45] I mean, why is it inherently is it because when we cut ourselves, we're like crap, that's blood, and we're freaked out by it. Yeah, I think it's uh it's a yeah. Same reason why people think that like they're making a sexual statement by eating like you know, deer testicles and stuff like that. Yeah. You know, when a guy eats a deer testicle, people are like, yeah.
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+[24:01] You know what I mean? Like, is it because of some sort of weird like sexual connotation? Yeah, right. So it's so like things that are gross of things that like we don't want to eat, like, you know, things that any whatever. Very strange.
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+[24:13] Anyway, all right. So now we will go to our first commercial break. Call it all your questions 2, 718, 497, 21828. 7184972128 cooking issues. And I'm coming from a brand new place.
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+[24:50] I'm feeling quick and I don't miss the link. And a better note that no trace. Hey, take it out. Check it out. Check out the new lick.
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+[25:01] What about my new trick? And believe me, the capital sweet was dealing hard. The cats don't speak dealing hard. Some cat's a bad for his hard. Check me out.
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+[25:18] That's where the bust will start. Taking place. So keep our light when you got some light and the balls can't fit no case. Following is a public service announcement from Heritage Radio Network. Join Linda Palacio for a taste of the past every Thursday at 12 p.m.
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+[25:55] As she indulges her curiosities about food, cooking, drinking, and dining of the past by taking a journey through culinary history. Linda interviews authors, scholars, friends, and chroniclers to learn about what was eaten, where and how. From as long ago as ancient Mesopotamia and Rome, right up to the grazing tables and deli counters of today. The show underscores food as a lively link between present and past cultures. Again, that's Thursday at 12 p.m.
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+[26:24] on the Heritage Radio Network. So nice. So nice that is true. Welcome back to Cooking Issues. By the way, Jack has managed to find, and I really like it, one of the old must be one of the only James Brown songs that I don't know.
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+[26:40] Oh, wow. You know, like I I don't know how many thousands of hours I've listened to James Brown and managed to get one of the ones I don't know. Great tune, though. It's called Cold Blooded, and it's from the record called Hell. Oh, yeah.
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+[26:55] Guess what I'm gonna go out and download today? No offense, James. I spent many well, you're dead, but no, I've spent many, many hundreds of dollars on your products. I think I'm gonna go steal this one on the internet. So what do you think, Nastasha?
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+[27:04] I don't know. Cold blooded hell. Anyway, uh, by the way, I think Linda Palacio might be a good person to ask that last question on blood and history. Linda Palacio is uh, I think I think she wants to be involved somehow with the Museum of Food and Drink. And uh we'd we love to have her involved.
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+[27:21] So if I see her, which I uh I very rarely do, but if I see her, I'll ask her that that blood question because that might be right up for alley. Okay. Naveen Sinha writes in, and by the way, Naveen is the head TA for was last year, I don't know if he is this year, uh, for the class that uh Faran uh Adria headlined uh in Harvard. And he's a vegetarian. Okay, Nastasha, why don't you bust on the guy for being a vegetarian on on the radio?
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+[27:46] The guy already listen, this poor guy, all right. Listen, this poor guy, Naveen, right? He he goes to this event uh and he and he's now hanging out with all these chefs, right? Because he was involved with this uh class at Harvard where they had some of the world's greatest chefs go in, like Wiley, my brother-in-law, all these guys go in. And the like all chefs invariably bust on this guy for being a vegetarian.
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+[28:08] Leave the guy alone. No, he's a TA at Harvard in the food food studies program. He's not a TA in Harvard of the Food Studies program. He's in the physics and material science program, and they're teaching a study of they're teaching a class on how to learn about that subject through the lens of food. Yes.
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+[28:27] Yes. Leave the man alone on his vegetarianists. Please. He's a nice guy. I hope he calls in.
+
+[28:33] Yeah, well, if you if he does, I recommend he calls in 2718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. Anyway. Naveen uh writes in he says, he recently read about the Uzo effect, in which uh anis-flavored spirits and liqueurs become opaque, white usually, unless it's been colored beforehand, when diluted with water. I was wondering if you have seen this effect occur with other types of spirits.
+
+[28:57] And also, do I know of any other examples of color-changing beverages? Thanks. Alright, so uh what's happening with um with uh uzo or I don't know why the hell they call it the uzo effect. Seriously, like like I they they say that uzo is drunk more in in the US than uh pastis, recard, or absinthe. But since Absinthe uh you know went through that surge in popularity after the uzo effect had been characterized.
+
+[29:22] Uh maybe we should rename it the absinthe effect. How many by show of hands out in the world on the internet? How many of you have had a glass of uzo this year? Anyone? Um anyone, right?
+
+[29:32] Uh some sort of absinthe beverage? There's two people in here raising their hands, you know what I mean? Or pastis or perno uh based uh substance. Anyways, so uh I'm gonna forget the name because for some reason I forgot to paste it into my iPad. But um I believe the uh the oil involved the chemical is called Anatole.
+
+[29:49] I think it's what it's called. Anatol, and it's at the end. So someone will call in and say, I can't believe you forgot the name of it, but there it is. I did. Uh and what happens is is that it's a very s interesting effect.
+
+[29:59] When you're when you're making um, usually when you make an emulsion, you have to provide energy, usually uh mechanical energy, to uh create uh the little droplets of oil inside of uh a liquid. And the reason is is because uh it's takes a lot less energy for because there's a lot more surface area and there's actual energy associated with keeping two um emissible, i.e. don't mix together liquids next to each other. So that's why usually you have to beat things with whisks and blenders to get them to emulsify. Another thing you can do to lower the amount of energy you could put in is to add an emulsifier, which takes away some of the energy required to make that emulsion.
+
+[30:34] But the way the uzo effect works is entirely different. Instead of using mechanical energy, an emulsion is made basically almost spontaneously. It's called spontaneous emulsion. And what's going on is that uh the oil is soluble in in ethanol in in alcohol, but not in water. So uh what happens as you dilute uh, you know, I'm gonna say uh absinthe or perno, right?
+
+[31:00] Because I don't drink oozo. Uh, you know, why not other things like that? Why not like uh why not like aguardiente or like any other anis-flavored thing, like why ozo? No offense to the Greeks. No offense.
+
+[31:12] You know what I mean? Uh anyway. So uh you when you dilute it with water, um, you have the entire solution is basically uh evenly and homogeneously saturated with uh with this oil, and all of a sudden becomes super saturated. And it and it does it in a way that that many, many, many, many, many millions of tiny, tiny droplets are instantly formed, right? And because that's super fast nucleation, you get these small, small droplets that are stabilized, right?
+
+[31:41] Uh for hours and hours and hours, sometimes even days, depending on on how it works. And so it's this like instant like super saturation and massive nucleation that causes the oozo effect. And yes, it is uh visible in many other spirits. I don't know of any commercial spirits uh other than the anise flavored ones where it happens, uh, because that's famous. But many of the fl uh spirits that we make in the rotary evaporator will uh show the the uh oozo effect when they're diluted.
+
+[32:12] So some of our Thai basal spirits will uh if you add uh water to them, they will go white on you when you mix. Uh and then later on, if you let it sit for days and days, the oil will float to the top. Um and just tons of them. I've had caraway go white on me when I when I've done it, and I don't know what the components are in it that's doing it, but I've had some of our carrier, although maybe it was the caraway that we put phenyl into, which would make more sense maybe. Maybe maybe possible.
+
+[32:39] Um but uh so the answer is Naveen, yes. There are other oils that are uh you know soluble in ethanol and weakly are insoluble soluble in uh water and have this effect. The other thing that liquors can do to change colors is you can shift uh acid-base equilibria. So you can have a liquor that's neutral that has uh anthocyanins in it, and they'll start out uh in the bluish range, and then uh like blue corn, uh, and then as you acidify it with uh lemon juice or whatnot, it'll turn red uh or reddish purple. That's another thing you can do, although I don't know of any com there's some teas in Thailand that are flower-based.
+
+[33:18] There's a blue flower-based tea in Thailand, I believe it's Thailand, because Nastasha wasn't. Yeah, that we researched. And um, and that one, you make the tea and it's blue, you add the lemon, it turns red. Uh so that's something you can do. Another thing you can do is you can do kind of a re reverse uzo where you can suspend a weekly soluble uh like calcium or magnesium salt in, and then when you acidify it, it'll go clear.
+
+[33:41] Uh Nastasha and I have had uh we had to do we tr it's interesting you should ask this because we tried those things for this event we had to do. We didn't try that flower. What was it called? We couldn't find the flower. I forget the name of it.
+
+[33:52] It's similar to like a blue cornflower or something. It looked it was that color of blue. Uh um anyway, but it was very rare here in the US. Uh anyway, so we tried it and uh not to much uh good effect, especially because we needed to do the opposite of what was easy. We needed it to go not from red to uh not from blue to red but from red to blue and basic drinks.
+
+[34:11] Let me just tell you, what's the word we're looking for here? Gross. Gross. Um Brian Oaks writes in uh on iPads and fruits. I know from the radio show that you have an iPad.
+
+[34:24] Any recommendations on food-related apps? No, I don't really I don't really have any food-related apps. Yeah, you do. What? Chang's thing.
+
+[34:31] What? Chang's zap. I don't have that on here. Is that released yet? Yeah, I think so.
+
+[34:36] But listeners, if you're interested in developing an app for heritage radio network, email us at info at heritage radio network.com. Wow. Nice, huh? I've heard some people like the ratio thing, but I've never used it. Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah.
+
+[34:49] I know people that like that. Yeah? Yeah. And I hear that uh I don't I don't uh you know who uh you know, Jerry Lavish, our uh our web guru, he would know because he he does that kind of stuff. I look, I use my uh iPad as basically a book.
+
+[35:03] It's basically like, you know, I have like uh, you know, you know, probably a hundred thousand pages or something of uh of science related uh books and articles uh in my iPad, and that's mainly what I what I use it for. Um but then people write in. Tell us what they think their best uh their best food apps are. Uh also uh Brian just got back from a trip to Florida and stop by the fruit and spice park. Good job.
+
+[35:24] Everyone should go to the fruit and spice park. Uh I think we talked about it last week a little bit, right? Our trip to the fruit and spice park. But he has a recommendation that I might have forgotten to make, uh, which is I would recommend bringing something to rinse your hands and face with because you are going to be covered with sweet, drippy, sticky mango juice. Not that there's anything wrong with that, he adds.
+
+[35:40] I saved at least 15 different mangoes and could have tried at least a dozen more. Why not? Why didn't you? I don't have to go to dinner. Maybe.
+
+[35:47] Or maybe they were maybe because maybe he didn't get the super like treatment and they they chased him out of there. Mm-hmm. Uh I'm thinking rapid infusion with mango puree and rum. Keep up the great show Brian Oaks. Although, you know what I really want to do is I want to take some of those mangoes and fuse the mango chunks in a vacuum with uh booze, because that's be delicious.
+
+[36:05] But we couldn't, when we went, harvest enough of these mangoes to um to do that to. It's an excellent recommendation, by the way, bringing something to uh wash your hands and face with. Uh what I used when I was out was the incessant rainstorm that was pounding us with buckets of water every 10 seconds. Right? So we had a we had a separate problem in that we couldn't like keep our cameras out because none of us had like you know, diving cameras, because we were basically tasting mangoes in like three feet of water.
+
+[36:31] Like we needed like snorkel gear to do our tasting. Um, you know what I'm I've had this problem so many times. You want to take fruit out of a tasting and you don't know what to do. So anyone out there who's has this, and we need a way to label fruits. Sharpie's don't write on f on waxy fruits, especially when it's raining, and the Sharpie comes off and then the Sharpie starts writing.
+
+[36:52] So Sharpie, I know I love Sharpie. Sharpie, all love to you, and for all of the all of the good times that we've had together, but it is ineffective for writing the names on fruits if the weather is at all messed up. They need to make a fruit sharpie. Yeah. Thank you, Nastasha.
+
+[37:06] They need to make a fruit sharpie. Are you listening out there, people? Someone either tell me look, I don't want it to be horribly toxic. Like I'm not willing to die to label my fruit. But I need some sort of like fruit label so I can write on it.
+
+[37:18] The other idea I had is like, what if they had like a special like little like needle thing where you could like almost like you remember those old Dymo like label makers that would punch that tape? But like you could just like quickly like type the letter and it would stencil into the fruit skin. We should just bring uh whatever that thing is called. It'll take on any tape you put on will come come right the heck off if it's raining. And like the like McGee and I were out there the second day when when uh you were driving to Miami.
+
+[37:43] We were trying to write, and the pa as we were writing the paper was bleeding off into the uh in into the earth. It was a freaking nightmare, which m which A meant that we could taste fewer fruits, and B is making our job of figuring out what the heck we ate a lot, lot harder. Um anyway, I'm glad someone's going to the fruit and spice park. Everyone should go to Miami. If look, if any of you guys plan a trip to Miami, you need to uh go down to South Day to the homestead area to the fruit and spice park.
+
+[38:13] Uh and and then when they tell you that you can't eat the fruit, I don't know, punch them in the face. Uh don't do that. Don't do that. Uh, and uh do whatever you can to get a hold of some of the fruit. They usually let you eat the fruit that's fallen on the ground.
+
+[38:26] The problem with the fruit, two things I've noticed. One, the problem with the fruit spice park uh is that they allow the public in a lot, and so they have to be careful about the fruits because otherwise they'd be stripped bare instantaneously. Um the other problem is is that tropical fruit people are more covetous of their fruit. This has been my experience, my relatively small experience, as opposed to temperate fruit people. Like you have someone with an orchard fruit, uh or uh like a a pear or apple orchard, you know, whatever, you're like, can I have this fruit?
+
+[38:52] They're like, yeah, take it. Take it. Otherwise it's gonna fall on the ground and rot. You know what I mean? If they're not commercial.
+
+[38:58] If they're commercial, it's a different story. But these guys are like, they know every remember, these guys knew every single mango that was on that tree, and if you took one, they're like, where'd that mango go? You know what I mean? It's like they're they it's a different it's a different kind of crew. I still haven't figured it quite out yet.
+
+[39:13] Anyway, we're gonna take one more commercial break and then come back and slam through these last couple questions. Call your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues. We live in Brooklyn, baby. We try to make it, baby.
+
+[40:08] We wanna make it, baby. We're gonna make it, baby. Living in Brooklyn, baby. We live in Brooklyn, baby. Wow.
+
+[40:21] Anyway, yeah, and Nastasha, by the way, even though we're we're are we on? Yeah, we're on. Even though we're in Brooklyn, uh a lot of the time, Nastasha is like an old school Brooklyn hater. So anyone out there, anyone out there who's a Brooklyn patriot, please call in and give Nustacha serious ribbing. You also I hate the roads in Brooklyn.
+
+[40:45] Like someday for this, we're gonna do the entire session on Neil uh Neil Diamond's Brooklyn Roads. And it must be some sort of like crazy sarcastic song because the roads here in Brooklyn. Brooklyn Roads, yeah. You know the song Brooklyn Roads. Rambling Rose?
+
+[41:00] Brooklyn Roads. No, it's cracking, you're thinking Crackling Rose. Crackling Rose. Yeah, Brooklyn Roads. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[41:06] Get up on your Neil Diamond, alright? Anyway. Uh, so because the roads here are some of the worst dang things in the world. It's like, you know, it's it's like you someone's sitting there and throwing hand grenades into the pavement and blowing holes in it for no apparent reason. And then and then they or the or like somehow like meteorites made of asphalt are falling into the into the road and just leaving giant, like, or volcanoes of asphalt are coming out of the road at different points.
+
+[41:32] And if you're a biker, the roads of Brooklyn are um what's the word? Crap. Right? Crap. Anyway.
+
+[41:41] Uh, but Brooklyn itself I enjoy. I enjoy Brooklyn itself, just not their roads. Okay. Uh James T. Ray writes in about popcorn.
+
+[41:51] Normally I eat with reckless abandon. However, I love to snack and I wanted a low calorie option. I like popcorn as a snack, and reach recently purchased an air popper to pop my corn, and I love it. So the question can I get salt to adhere to the popcorn without a lipid or making a soggy mess? And by the way, I've tried the cooking spray with mixed results.
+
+[42:10] I love the show, James T. Ray. Hmm. Um, well, the first thing you can do is to get uh popcorn salt. So uh Morton makes many different kinds of salt, and uh one of them is popcorn salt.
+
+[42:25] I just dropped mine out. And popcorn salt is uh very, very, very fine. And so it adheres to popcorn much better than even their uh iodized salt, and definitely better than uh kosher salt and things like that. So and it's super super fine, easy to distribute. So if you've had mixed results with the cooking spray, which is what I was gonna recommend before I read the last line of uh of your thing, um, you know, spread it out, spray a little cooking spray, and then a fine dusting of this popcorn salt.
+
+[42:55] I think you're gonna get better adhesion. Um aside from that, I did a primary search. There are, I mean, you could do I mean all the other things make it such a pain in the butt that I don't know that you'd do it. You can make like a uh uh like an alcohol dispersion, like a like a like a vodka dispersion of salt, spray it over the popcorn, throw it in an oven and dry it back out with a pain in the butt. I mean, you want to make popcorn, presumably you want to eat it at some point, right?
+
+[43:20] You don't want to sit there and re wet it, redry it out, right? It doesn't make any sense, right, Nastasha. That's too much trouble, right? Yeah. I just put salt and sugar on mine.
+
+[43:28] Air popped? Did you listen to the question at all? What's it air popped is like in the in the popper? Again, Nastasha's sitting there thinking about I'm sure she's thinking about lunch, which we're gonna have delicious Roberta's lunch instead of what's going on. Air popper means that it's basically like a hair dryer that that's contained, and it and by the way, your air popper makes a good coffee roaster.
+
+[43:49] I don't know whether you knew that, James. You can roast coffee in your air popper. Uh you have to be careful because the chaff flies all over your uh your room. You have to contain it, make sure it doesn't catch on fire. Fire's a problem.
+
+[43:58] Anyway, um I used to do it for years. I used an air air popcorn maker before I bought a uh coffee roaster and then moved to whirly pop, which is actually my favorite popcorn making technique. So in air popping, Nastasha, there is no added oil. Okay. Yeah.
+
+[44:12] Uh I wonder whether you could add just a small amount of oil to the popcorn kernels as you're popping them in the air popper and then um maybe then increase adhesion. I don't know. That might because if the spray problem was that maybe it wasn't getting all over it, maybe a small amount of oil on the popcorn kernels themselves. But the problem with uh doing that, and this is probably why it won't work, is that it's what's that technology, air popping is what's called a fluid bed kind of technology where the popcorn kernels are all separated from each other and kept agitated by the uh air that's blowing in them. And then when a popcorn kernel pops, it immediately becomes less dense and it's unpopped cousins and then floats to the surface and then it's pushed out so it doesn't burn at the bottom.
+
+[44:51] And so I wonder whether adding a small amount of oil would kind of ruin that effect uh or get into it or just ruin everything in general. But I know that you can have oil in a popcorn popper because that's how I uh when you roast coffee, the oils are in there, and the oil uh gets on the inside of the air popcorn popper, and it does foul it a little bit, but it doesn't like ruin it in any way. So that could be another thing to do. But my first step would be to get the actual popcorn salt, and you can buy it on you could buy it on the Amazon.com. Anyway, uh Garth writes in about vanilla.
+
+[45:21] We grow vanilla in the South Pacific Island of Tonga and process the beans into different products in New Zealand. Uh, how would we produce a vanilla foam that we could use at food shows for attendees to scoop some foam from a bowl to taste our vanilla? I visualize a nice glass fish bowl without any fish with an aeration. He actually says fish removed. Get a new one.
+
+[45:40] Don't just remove the fish from the fish bowl because then you're killing the fish. No, I don't see the case. I don't I don't think he was saying that. Anyway, all right. Just without a fish.
+
+[45:48] I'd buy a new one. Anyway. With an aeration pump, causing the liquid in the bowl to foam up so people can just scoop some on a tasting stick. Not sure what type of base would be best as it uh as it ideally would just suit our vanilla flavor without too much else competing. Could taste like a custard, a panicata, ice cream, jelly, citrus, etc.
+
+[46:05] We have carrageen in, but no other high-tech ingredients. Okay. Foam done with a aquarium pump in a bowl uh or in any sort of vessel was something uh that a bunch of chefs were working on and was first cracked and pioneered by uh Andoni Adoriz uh from uh when you know at Mugaritz in like uh years ago. And uh his recipe, which is uh on the internets, I think uh if you just search it the the famous dish he made with it was called Vanity, and it had a chocolate foam. Uh and the what he the basic recipe is two percent uh powdered egg whites by weight uh of the mixture, which you know he then lets uh uh what's the word hydrate and 0.1, i.e.
+
+[46:53] uh is that right? One gram in a liter? Can't be that low. Look it up, but it's something like that. One gram in a liter of Xanthan gum.
+
+[47:03] If you can get carrageen in, I'm pretty sure you can get Xanthan uh where you are. If not, it's easy to male order Xanthan and you only have to use a tiny tiny bit of it so you can get a hold of it. And that's the basic recipe that he uses to make the big air bubble foams, and then you just put it in the bottom and do it out. Now, the downside is is they have very little uh flavor in them because they are like 99.99% air with only a little bit of bubbles and they pop almost instantaneously. I mean, that's the idea of it.
+
+[47:33] I think that for what you're doing, you're gonna want a more dense, stable foam, uh, in which case you could probably just use powdered egg whites and vanilla uh and uh and your vanilla extract and water um or or something. I'm not trying to think of what the best foam would be. You could use if you have agar, you can make a fluid gel and then and then shoot it out of an ISI canister. The problem with foams is I think that they're they're going to reduce the flavor of your vanilla by introducing a lot of air into it. The other problem is is you might want to look at an article uh brought to my attention also by McGee uh uh from 1997 called The Effect of Milk Fat on the Flavor Perception of Vanilla Ice Cream.
+
+[48:11] Uh basically, the more fat you have, the uh more muted your perception of the vanilla flavor is. So I would stay away from anything that contained fat because uh if you're gonna want to highlight this, and I and I sense why you want to have it in a foam because you want the air, and then you first of all you probably don't want to use that much of it, and you probably want to have the flavor come out. You also don't want to use a lot of heat because heat is gonna alter the uh flavor of your uh of your vanilla. It's too bad you can't get something like VersaWhip, which you can then just whip it up into a foam with a little maltodextrin, or something like uh, you know, what else? Like VersaWhip or methyl methyl cell F50.
+
+[48:51] I mean, you could try just a stable uh egg white foam. Um you could probably get pasteurized egg whites and then do it that way and do it uncooked, but I don't want you to have that eggy flavor. But I I don't A, I don't want you to heat it because I don't want you to alter the flavor of the vanilla through the heat. And B, I don't want you uh I don't want you to add any fat because then um you're adding fat. You know what?
+
+[49:15] Maybe a minimum amount of heat, like almost like uh an Italian meringue where you whip the egg white and then you pour the hot sugar in to set it a little bit, but it's not really cooking it for a long time. That might get it. And then you could just basically have this like meringue almost meringue icing that people could scoop up and then just go sugar and vanilla, it's gonna have the air, you'll get a good delivery. What do you think? Yeah.
+
+[49:35] It's low tech. Yeah. Low tech, delicious. Good job. Delicious and low tech.
+
+[49:39] Also, you can maybe stir some vanilla in after you cook it so that you uh so that you uh have some totally uncooked vanilla in it if it if you go a little over stiff. These are my recommendations, Garth. Use them for what they're worth, which is probably nothing. Uh lastly, uh Jason writes in about Nixtimol. Hi Dave, I love the post about nyxtimalization, thank you.
+
+[50:01] But uh I'm having trouble doing it here in the UK because field corn is not common. I have two questions. Do you need to use intact kernels or can you use broken cracked kernels? Most field corn here is sold as bird feed, a lot of it cracked. Also, can I use a grain mill like the one that would connect to my kitchen aid mixer to grind the grain after treatment?
+
+[50:17] Thanks, Jason. Unfortunately, Jason, cracked corn won't work because uh it doesn't uh hydrate the same way basically um the the outside, the pericarp is what's stopping the water from going instantly into the corn kernel and overcooking it. And so if you treat it with lye and it's already been broken, it's just it no, it just won't work. It won't it won't be the same. Uh what I would recommend if you can't get field corn is use even though I said in the post not to use popcorn.
+
+[50:45] Popcorn will work, right? It's just not quite as um. It's just it's just harder. It's not ideal for it, but it's better than bracked uh cracked or broken. So I would try to use uh I would get popcorn.
+
+[50:59] You'll get the largest uh kernel ones, not the small kernel variety that you can. And is it the best? No, because it's hard to grind, right? Uh I would not use the KitchenAid. That thing's gonna gum up.
+
+[51:11] I have one, a grain mill, Kitchen A grain mill. Things gonna gum up lickety lickety lickety split. I would then, you know, if you have to, I would use a food processor, um, and you know, and then maybe even mortar and uh pestle some of it to get the texture down. The problem with the food processor is you're gonna have to add more water. I have done it.
+
+[51:29] It's a sticky, awful mess, but I I I have done it. Um so you you can you can do it. Um it's just you know, it's not ideal, but it definitely is possible for experimentation. The people ate the my my uh tortillas that I made with uh with popcorn uh and a food processor, and they didn't, you know, they didn't punch me in the face. I didn't also I didn't have those looks of well, this was good, but me, me, me, me, me.
+
+[51:53] You know what I'm talking about? You know those looks? Yeah, yeah. Anyway, so give it a try, and I'd appreciate anyone from the UK, because I've had a couple people maybe have this problem, write in with their solutions to finding uh good ways to do nixamalization in the UK. Anyway, come back next week and get another episode of Cooking Issues Vision.
+
+[52:22] Oh, you did crap me on this corner and I don't know where I'm at. This is behind the scenes food news with Katie Kiefer. AMP goes local. The Great Atlantic and Pacific Tea Company, commonly known as the AMP, that grocery chain you've seen all your life, has glommed onto the concept of local and sustainable and has just introduced a new consortium of producers known as the Mid Atlantic Country Farms, from which they will source beef and poultry. The animals are antibiotic and hormone free, raised on vegetarian feed.
+
+[53:00] There is no mention of certified humane or animal welfare approved uh status, however. Maybe they haven't gotten that far in the marketing department. But what makes this of interest is that AMP supplies all AMP supermarkets, Pathmark, Food Emporium, Wald Baums, and Super Fresh. These are not particularly high-end supermarkets, so this is good news for the average consumer. If you want to read more about this, you can go to the AMP website, which is www.apt.com slash pressroom.
+
+[53:28] This has been behind the scenes food news with Katie Kiefer. Finger on the pole and City Winery are proud to present the summer barbecue blowout festival, August 6th from noon to 4 p.m. The barbecue is happening at City Winery, located at 155 Varrick Street in New York City. Restaurants featured at this event are Empire May's, Van Dag, Momo Fuco Mo Bar, Imperial No. 9, Myeland, Mexico, Craft, Dizzy's Club, Coca-Cola, The Meatball Shop, and Dose Torres.
+
+[53:58] Providing the soundtrack for the day are Midnight Magic, Pewter Magic, New Villager, Punches, Ducky, DJ Autobot, and the Snacky Tune DJ. VIP and General Admission tickets are available at CityWinery.com. Finger on the pole for City Wine, we'd like to thank our sponsors, Heritage Foods USA, New York Magazine, Break of vodka, Sonar, Smile, Guilt City, Sub Zero and Wolf. Please come out and join us for a day of fun, food, and dancing. For more information, go to www.fotpnyc.com.
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+[0:05] You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com, bringing you the freshest radio in Brooklyn since 2009. Here directly from chefs to farmers, artists to architects, authors to brewers, and everyone in between. Check out all of our shows on our website or by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. On behalf of everybody at Heritage Radio Network.com, we'd like to send a special thank you to the Hearst Ranch, our biggest supporter and longest running sponsor since we first started in 2009. Hearst Ranch is the nation's largest single source supplier of free-range, all natural, grass-fed and grass finished beef.
+
+[0:44] Since 1865, the Hearst family has raised cattle on the rich, sustainable native grasslands of the Central California coast. The heck were they thinking? Yeah, look it up. Well, maybe let's see if we can get that for our uh for our uh what's it called? You know, our intra song thing.
+
+[1:52] So, Jack, since I'm unable to remember the telephone number here, can you give it to him? 718 497 2128. That is 718 497 2128. Call in with all of your live cooking or non-cooking related questions, technical or not. Okay, so uh start with uh questions that have been emailed to us beforehand.
+
+[2:14] This one comes from uh now okay, last name is P E T H O with an umlaut. I'm gonna assume that's pronounced Peter, but I don't know. Joseph Petter and Corby Cummer, our friend from uh from the Atlantic uh Monthly, uh the senior food editor there, uh says, uh Dave, an article, uh, and there's been many, so we'll talk about it, about uh sugar, uh, suggests that sugar does not melt but rather decomposes, and that there is a time temperature relationship associated with sugar. My question, and this is uh Joseph's question, Corby just was like, hey, what's up with this? Anyway, my question is that does that mean that sous vide caramel can be created?
+
+[2:49] Any thoughts on this? As for me, I will try some experiments soon. Uh okay. So uh I'm gonna fill everyone in. There's a bunch of uh research that's been uh produced recently by a uh uh a group of people mainly out of uh university of Illinois, uh, showing that sugar does not actually melt in a traditional sense, but rather melts and decomposes at the same time, right?
+
+[3:12] So a traditional material with a traditional melting point, like a metal, uh, you can take it from a solid uh to a liquid, back to a solid, back to a liquid, back to a solid, back to a liquid, blah blah blah blah blah. Right? Uh, you know, virtually ad infinitum, uh assuming there's no oxidation stuff like this. Right? This has a traditional melting point.
+
+[3:31] Oh, Nastasha just showed up. The L train. Hold a second, I'm gonna have to lift my my headphone cord so she can get into her customary seat. Oh, there goes the microphone. Alright, here we go.
+
+[3:40] Alright, now we're up to full staff. Now, um sugar, on the other hand, right? Uh the research has shown that every time someone has tried to figure out what the melting point of table sugar is, sucrose, they've noticed that uh it's been widely variant over the literature. And these guys uh did a study basically showing that there is no single melting point that basically it starts to decompose uh and and that basically shifts when it melts. So that the how fast you heat it changes uh basically when it appears to melt.
+
+[4:12] Uh and all the way up to when they're they're using something extremely quickly where they can ramp up the temperature on the order of like five, six hundred degrees Celsius per minute. And still they're showing a uh a shift. Uh they have data that shows that um sugar starts to break down roughly at 120 degrees Celsius, which is too hot for uh too hot for sous vide. But uh not uh well I forget what the temperature in a pressure cooker is, but it's somewhere in that region. Uh you so you might be able to do something in uh in a pressure cooker.
+
+[4:40] I have gotten things to sugars to brown in a pressure cooker over time, but at 120 C at normal pressure, you're talking about long, long, long, long, long, long, long, long, long time for it to uh for it to start sugar to start breaking down. Um course you can get the temperature well above 120 C in a pressure cooker by uh basically just reducing the amount of water present. Anyway, so Sue V caramel, no, uh, but very interesting research on um sugar and it basically decomposing at the time that it at the same time that it melts and so not having a a melting point. And for those of you that really give a uh a hoot and a holler about this. Look up uh investigation of the heating rate dependency associated with the loss of crystalline structure in sucrose, glucose, and fructose using thermal analysis approach, 120 C, uh using thermal analysis approach, parts one and two of this year, along with their blockbuster follow-up.
+
+[5:32] Can the thermodynamic melting of temperature of sucrose, glucose, and fructose be measured using rapid scanning differential scan scanning calorimetry? So I mean those are was scintillating reading this morning, Mustache. I can't tell you how excited I was to read all those papers this morning. Oh my god. Yeah.
+
+[5:47] Uh anyway. Okay. So another question in from Steve. Uh oh, Steve, a often writing in, although I don't have his last name, but Steve. Writes in uh on pressure cookers and uh has a question on pressure cookers and pressure and on salt.
+
+[6:01] Hey, thanks for answering answering my question about pressure cookers. And no, the electric one, he has an electric one, doesn't hit 15 psi, it only manages 10 to 12 psi. But on the plus side, it can get really hot, so it's great for browning, and I don't have to keep an eye on it when it's cooking. Still experimenting with it and having fun with the results. Since I last spoke about uh electric pressure cookers, Quisinart sent me uh one of their electric pressure cookers.
+
+[6:20] It does indeed do browning. It is great in that it is quiet, uh, doesn't release steam, doesn't release uh kind of any extra uh moisture into the atmosphere, but I was trying to run tests on it to see what the pressures related were, and uh indeed I wasn't even able to get uh 10 PSI. I was able to get roughly, I think nine PSI based on the temperature measurements, which didn't quite make it to 140. I forget what the actual numbers were. So my my next it's it has something to do with the way that they're uh regulating the temperature based uh on the bottom.
+
+[6:50] There's like a little spring that shows that the thing is in, and then they're measuring the temperature at the bottom, and that's how they're calculating what uh to do it. They're not actually measuring pressure as far as I can tell. So my next step is to open up the Cuisinart uh and see whether there's uh a potentiometer or something in there that I can futz with that'll change uh what the temperature uh set limit is. If there is, I'm gonna adjust the temperature up to have it be at 15 PSI and see whether 'cause I really want my pressure cookers to be at 15 PSI. I've run a lot of uh tests where we uh we checked uh the taste of different things at different pressures.
+
+[7:24] And honestly, what 15 PSI second ring is pretty optimal for things like stocks and also for the speed of cooking and for the modification of texture and things like meats. Um I want it to be 15 PSI, so more to work on that later, but it does seem like a great piece of equipment. I'm trying to figure out how to hack it now. If any of you have had experience hacking Cuisinar pressure cookers, please write in and uh tell us how how uh how to do it before I ruin the one that was sent me because I would like to use it eventually in my house after I finish messing with it, right? Anyway, thanks to Quisenar for sending it.
+
+[7:56] Okay. Uh I by the way, if any of you have some cool equipment out there that you want us to beat on and look at, send us some equipment to beat on and look at. We have a call, Nasasha? Yes. Caller, you on the air.
+
+[8:08] Hi, Dave. It's Colin. Hey. Uh very long radio silence. I had something to ask you.
+
+[8:16] Sure. Uh so have you used cooked with sorrel very much? Uh I've uh only you know you I've used fresh uh and I've used the basically the red, the hibiscus style stuff to do uh beverages. Um, you know, for it's basically the the the acidity and the color, you know, there's a whole group of uh uh Caribbean and also African beverages based on the Yeah, yeah, like sorry. Yeah, I think they're great.
+
+[8:44] I mean that they're you know the the acidity is very kind of uh specific. I haven't looked up what the acid is. I think it's I think it's I'm not I think it's oxalic, but I'm not totally Yeah, I was gonna say that's something like you say. Yeah, yeah, it oh it's it's it's at least partially that and that's what gives it its similar kind of acid characteristic to something like rhubarb. Um so and and you know, for those of you that haven't had sorrel but have had rhubarb, uh they're uh have a similar sort of uh feeling in in its acidity.
+
+[9:16] Um and so I would bet that their acid makeup is fairly similar. That said, I love it as a drink. Um I've had I haven't had good luck yet mixing it as an alcoholic drink. I've uh the ones I've really enjoyed have been more like uh non-alcoholic drinks. Have you had any good luck with it as an alcoholic drink?
+
+[9:32] No, I I haven't actually tried it as a drink yet. I just sort of have have some growing and have been cooking with it a lot. Right. But uh so the thing is, you know how it's got that really nice, bright, fresh acidic flavor when it's raw. Yep.
+
+[9:47] Uh when you cook it, it gets it tak it gets a very excellent texture. It gets this kind of like creamy, velvety kind of goop texture that's uh it's it's pretty nice. So similar to like metals. Um yeah, I'm not totally like uh I don't want to have them in like testos and things, so I don't know what they're like all down. But uh let's see.
+
+[10:11] Oh, but so it takes on this kind of cooked spinach flavor that kind of muddles every like you know, kinda uh takes some of the freshness out of that flavor that I really enjoyed. So I'm trying to figure out if there's a way to you know, cook the sorrel or get it to that creamy consistency. Uh one and cause like one nice thing about it is you can then strain that through a cheesecloth and get rid of all the fibrous matter 'cause it I don't know, it just turns into like like I said, in those like goop. Right. And uh so I'm trying to see, you know, if I could turn that into something fluffy.
+
+[10:46] But you wanna you want to turn the the leftover fiber into something fluffy? Or do you want to turn the No, no, the get rid of the fiber just like uh so you only have that creamy texture of the kind of leaf that gets doing so like it. You know, since it gets this kind of cooked spinach flavor, is there a way to say you know like cooked spinach to like keep it tasting fresh but still take on something cooked? I've tried I've tried the kind of like, you know, go to raw foodish thing where you like put a little oil and salt and massage it and like uh that's there's that's good, but there's still there's still too much structure to really like uh strain it out. Yeah, so those raw food things are are based on a couple of different ideas and that is they're basically to destroy structure without heat, but it's not the same kind of s uh structure destruction you get from cooking.
+
+[11:43] It's more akin to forced wilting. It's basically all those raw food cooked vegetable things are basically forced wilting and shifting of osmotic pressure is how they work. Um but it when you're cooking something, you're actually cooking and breaking down uh, you know, the the the the pectins and uh all of those things, so it's actually a different thing. And I wouldn't think that you can get around the change in flavor. Uh but what you could do if you if you like the cooked spinach flavor in addition to the fresh flavor, you can do what I always do for blueberry things, which is all like mix some fresh back with the cooked.
+
+[12:20] Do you know what I mean? So like whenever I'm working with blueberries, like blueberry pies and blueberry tarts, I'll have my cooked blueberry component and then I'll also always put fresh blueberries back in because I really like the brightness of a fresh blueberry. But I also like the texture of the cooked blueberry goop in a pie, let's say. So you might be able to augment it. You know, do you think that would work or no?
+
+[12:40] Probably maybe 'cause I don't it's like that's the thing is when you strain it up, then I feel like it's probably gonna be straining out all the fresh stuff as well. But I don't know. I think you're gonna get some of it in there. I think I think you should try another thing you could try to do is try to get some of the uh the like the hibiscus, although it's red, bright red, you know, like that, like uh and then make a tea of that because even though it's dried and then heated in tea, it's pretty bright and then you could li mix some of that mixture back in and get some of that brightness back. Okay.
+
+[13:08] And so what do you know what c what kind of things lead to these more l I know in green vegetables or you know how like uh in spinach or in basil made when you keep them and they get kinda dark, you know they o are they oxidizing or like what's going on that really changes the flavor. Uh I don't really know what the change in flavor is ascribed to, although I will remember to ask McGee that, but most of those green things, if you remove their characteristic top notes and aromatics have a very similar cooked spinach smell. So when you ro when you do rotary evaporation on basil uh and you blend it and then after everything is sucked off you get this kind of cooked uh spinach smell and that is uh that is something that uh McGee knows exactly what it is and it it's a couple of compounds that I should remember but I can't I can't for the life of me remember what they are but a couple of compounds that give that specific smell, and all those green things have it in it. I'm gonna try to remember and the next time for next time I'll try and I'll try and uh bust back on what it is. Right.
+
+[14:10] Okay, so it's probably not something just coming from from being oxidized that you could get around by doing it in a vacuum or having some kind of shielding gas. Well, the browning is caused usually, I mean, by uh if it's turning dark, there's a bunch of things going on. There's enzymatic browning, so if you cook it quickly enough, uh if you blanch it whole without breaking it, you should be able to keep some of the green color. Then there's uh, you know, uh then there's other things like the chlorophyll can get eventually broken down, cooking long time, then it's gonna go olive grab. So there's a bunch of different color kind of changes that can happen um when you're doing it.
+
+[14:43] I'd have to look specifically at what you have to kind of see what's going on. But I wish I can remember what the flavor thing was. We'll have to ask Nastash, are you gonna remind me to ask McGee next time I took it? Yes. Yeah, you're you you're not even gonna remind it, you're not even writing it down.
+
+[14:55] You're just forgetting it. As we speak, all right, now she's now she's using her texting for good. Thank you. All right. So uh hold on second, I gotta go back to uh for a second to uh Steve, because Steve uh had his question about uh pressure cooking, right?
+
+[15:11] And so he then says uh this thing about salt. He has Steve also has a question. He says, I have a question about salt and bitterness. What is happening to the bitter flavor when you add salt to a grapefruit, for example? Is it blocking the bitterness or destroying compounds?
+
+[15:23] Uh and then he he has an experiment basically he does with tonic water, adding salt to tonic water to remove the bitterness or to change the bitterness, and then freshening up coffee, i.e. the bitterness by adding a bit of salt, but would love to know exactly what's happening. Well, Steve, I don't know that it's known for certain. Uh there are some papers that have been written about it. Uh the one that I read was the influence of sodium salts on binary mixtures of bitter tasting compounds by Keist uh 2004.
+
+[15:46] Um and they seem to indicate, he he she, they seem to indicate that um that salt is actually acting, uh the basically the ionic strength of salt is uh the the you know the the fact that it's charged is acting on at the site of your bitter receptors and altering uh how you perceive uh bitter literally altering how your taste buds perceive bitterness. Uh and the argument one of the arguments there is a study that was done a while ago where they put if they if the if you mix salt and bitter together and put it on your tongue, it is less bitter than if and then if you just add bitterness, right? But if you add bitterness to one side of your tongue and salt to the other, you could still taste uh the bitterness, basically. Uh and the thing they're showing is that you need to actually have the salt at the site where the bitter is being uh received. That argument I don't think is actually true because I don't know that your tongue can't distinguish uh like pattern of excitation.
+
+[16:36] In other words, like like if salt and bitterness are in the same area, it can modify even if it's not actually modifying your bitter receptor. But these guys have an interesting study where they they say they tested a bunch of different bitter compounds, and many of them were uh debittered slightly by salt, and mixtures of them were debittered by salt. But there's a couple of bitter compounds, uh one in particular that I can't remember the name of they checked, that salt did not affect. And so because salt was able to affect certain bitter compounds and not others, they're saying that it is not a cognitive, i.e. an like a brain integration effect uh on on salt modifying bitterness.
+
+[17:13] Rather, it is a modification of how the bitter molecules are being perceived at the taste receptor sites. Uh I still don't think that this is necessarily like slam dunk as an argument of what's going on because it could be that uh s that that certain bitter receptors are more apt to be uh cognitively interpreted along with salt as being less bitter as opposed to others. But I don't know. I haven't really read it thoroughly, but it's these guys seem to say that um that the salt is actually modifying the way your taste receptors uh taste the bitterness. But uh I'm willing to hear arguments from other people.
+
+[17:47] Yeah. Alright, with that say, why don't we go to our first commercial break? This is the way we laid down on the L train. But yeah, help me out now. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[17:58] Hey, yo, Black I need help. I mean to meet a leader's out of weight. Every single day, I swear I'm gonna find a better way. My enemies attest to me, this to me and grilling me. That's the day they're gonna be a beat me down repeatedly.
+
+[18:09] Imagine me. I was like a mr. Negativity, it's hard way to pack it. Now I got my crew and we are vibe to get some clear the street, shake the cops, let's go get these bombs. Sometimes I am a four.
+
+[18:26] No energy to run, but I gotta carry on resurrect myself. Lazarus, he was a man who died through the power of fate, became a rise. Open up your eyes and spot, Lazarus better. Yeah, open up your heart, your imagination. Right in on the train.
+
+[18:46] No more. Right on the train. Even trually. Yeah, shootsy groove. Shootsy groove, much like the actual L train, taking forever to get to the destination.
+
+[19:10] Get to the Dan Chorus, guys. Seriously. Seriously. Of course they would like the L train. Anyways.
+
+[19:17] Uh Ian, oh, by the way, uh, in case you weren't there before, call in your live questions to 718497 2128. That's 718 497 2128. Alright, now. Ian writes in with a question on vacuumed fish. Dear Dave, I'm curious about using sous vide for raw fish portions for storage.
+
+[19:33] I've heard that this is not a good idea. I don't know from whom, but we'll talk about that in a minute. And in practice, I found that fish can develop all flavor after a few days. I'm sure it has a lot to do with freshness of the fish before packaging. I bought fish from Japan that has been packed in plastic, and it was impeccable, but it's probably been packed immediately after it was killed and prepped.
+
+[19:50] Just wondering if you have any specific information on storing fish sous vide do's and don'ts. And Ian enjoys the program. Thank you. And uh another question came in uh that I'm gonna just smack these together because they're very similar. John writes in also about vac fish, and he says, Hello, I have a quick question I'd like to pitch for tomorrow's show.
+
+[20:09] Uh I recently purchased an immersion circulator, good call. This and this weekend I would like to cook a couple of monkfish loins. I don't have a cryovac, uh, and I haven't tried this before, but from what I've heard, monkfish is a good fish for low temperature cooking. My plan is to wrap the fish in plastic and then pop it into Ziploc bags. Am I at a significant disadvantage versus vacuum sealing here?
+
+[20:27] And I was hoping to get a suggestion for an appropriate time and temperature. Thanks so much. Okay, uh, I'm gonna start with John. No, John, you are not at a disadvantage. In fact, in some ways, you're at an advantage.
+
+[20:38] I find that um in tests I've run where we vacuum fish, if you put too much of a vacuum on fish, you can affect it the texture. So I really like fish cooked either wrapped in plastic or just directly in Ziploc bags with oil. Uh I presume you're wrapping it to preserve the shape of it, and then putting it you if you wrap it in plastic wrap, a couple layers of plastic wrap, and you can go on www.cooking issues.com, low temperature primer, and check the uh ways of packing without a vacuum machine, and you can see a rolling technique. You don't need the ziploc at all, actually. You can cook it directly in a plastic wrap.
+
+[21:10] And that's a a great technique, or cooking in a ziploc is a good technique. So, in some ways, I think you're uh at an advantage for that because you're not going to destroy the texture by over vacuuming it. Uh as for um uh times and temperatures, they're kind of all over the map. Uh I haven't personally cooked month monk fish, uh so I can't tell you, but I you know, like the Juan Roca style technique, which is also I think put out by some other people, is they use a 60 degree Celsius, which is a hundred and forty degree water bath, uh, for um uh t for about t 12 to 15 minutes. Uh and this is delta T temperature.
+
+[21:44] They're not trying to cook it all the way through to that temperature. They're shooting apparently for a core temperature of about 48 degrees Celsius, which is pretty low. Uh another person cooks at about 57 degrees Celsius, which is about 135 for 30 minutes. That's not delta T and that's significantly higher. That's that's what I do like striped bass at, so that's like a really firm uh tasting.
+
+[22:04] And then another person really enjoyed 48 degrees C for one hour, which seems to me not the way I would go. Like I don't think I would like it quite that low, the monkfish. Uh I think I'd probably like it higher, closer in the 50s, but I could be I could be wrong. And I wouldn't necessarily cook monk fish for a full hour just because I think it might start breaking down. I don't know what the enzymes are like, but a lot of fish have enzymes in them that break them down if you cook them for too long and make them mushy.
+
+[22:29] Another note is that one of the reasons temperatures for fish can be so all over the map is a lot of fish go through basically two zones where they taste good. A very low temperature range where uh you know it's kind of fudgy and tran almost translucent, uh, and uh like one roca and a lot of like you know, new school people like that, but a lot of people hate those fish uh cook that way. And another one slightly higher, usually fifty for salmon it's like fifty Celsius, right there, salmon, bang, fifty. Uh that's more traditional taste, and a lot of a lot of people like that. So it can be kind of confusing.
+
+[23:00] But uh I would if I was had to do it and I only had one shot, I would probably do the 60 degrees Celsius for about 15 minutes. Obviously, it depends on how big around the uh the thing is small. That's probably for a fairly thin portion. Uh okay. Back to uh the question of fish in a vacuum bag.
+
+[23:19] Very interesting. Uh I looked up an article this morning, modified atmosphere packaging of filleted rainbow trout by Begonia Jimenez in 2002 out of Brazil. And uh basically, uh the the story is is that uh the the big flaw of her uh test, by the way. I'm assuming begonia woman, right? Yeah.
+
+[23:37] I hope. Yeah. Uh begonia with an Enya, by the way. Yeah, begonia. Anyway, uh uh slightly flawed because she doesn't give her vacuum procedure.
+
+[23:46] She just says what equipment she vacuumed it with, and all of you out there should know that uh how you apply the vacuum is vitally important to a the texture of the fish, but also how much oxygen you you remove. But basically saying that um indeed there is spoilage in the vacuum bag, there's microbial growth, even of aerobic stuff due to residual oxygen left in it. Uh you know, you you don't I'll I'll read you exactly what they said about the sensory quality of different fish. She did uh overwrapped, that's French for plastic wrap, or I guess Portuguese for plastic wrapping, vacuum packaging and map modified atmosphere packaging, where they actually introduce things like uh CO2 that actually prevent bacteria from growing rather than just removing their oxygen supply. Okay.
+
+[24:27] Uh although the vacuum packaging kept this is their sensory panel, although vacuum uh packaging kept lower levels of T bars, T that basically that's some BS acronym for oxidation, because there's no oxidation because there's less oxygen than modified atmosphere packaging. It gave rise to a faster loss of fresh fish flavor. Faster loss of fresh fish flavor intensity along with a deterioration of the visual aspect of the filet. So basically her point is that um that you still lose some of the fresh flavor of fish if it's stored for a long time in vacuum bags. But uh don't store fish for a long freaking time.
+
+[25:02] You know what I mean? You know what I'm saying? Like what like all this good, what are we talking about here? Get your fish, pack the fish, cook the fish, eat the fish. You know, I've always said that uh, you know, one of the problems people have is they try to get this extended shelf life and are like, hey, can I buy the fish today and then like you know, cook it next year and still okay?
+
+[25:20] No. No. No. I mean, you can get some extension of shelf life, it's true. But when you're shooting for maximum quality, don't do it.
+
+[25:30] Don't do it. All right. Uh Derek writes in with an interesting question that I don't I'm just gonna say right out of hand, I don't know the answer to. Uh cookies and creaming. Hello, everyone, I have a quick question.
+
+[25:40] In most cookie recipes, when you cream the fat, usually butter, uh, and sugar together, and that's you know, for those of you that never creamed anything, I mean I'm I'm assuming that most of uh our listeners have creamed something before, but you know, you take your your your kitchen aid brand stand mixer, or anything actually, whatever you want, and you beat the hard butter and the sugar together. Usually fork, like my mom. She you can't cream with a fork. How the heck you can't convince her otherwise. You look the whole point is to beat air into it.
+
+[26:05] You're beating air into it. How are you gonna beat air into sugar and and and and butter with with a fork? If anyone out there, please send me a video where you effectively cream butter and sugar with a fork. I like you know that you know the impossibles that are the incredibles? Yeah.
+
+[26:21] That kid Dash, who's like the fastest kid in the world, like maybe he could do it, or like some sort of like bionic super person could effectively cream with a fork. I no, yeah, I've met Ukrainians before. You cannot cream with a fork. Are you you mean like something like biscuits maybe or pie crust? No, cookies.
+
+[26:40] In freaking sane. Insane. I'm just gonna go ahead and go on record and call that insane. Anyway, uh the whole point of that is to is to add air to your cookie. And then the reason that you add the eggs-oh, oh, sorry, I didn't even finish the question yet.
+
+[26:52] Uh in most cookie recipes where you cream the fat, usually butter and sugar together, the recipe then instructs you to add egg before the flour. I screwed up recently, added the egg halfway through adding the flour. It did not seem to mess up my recipe. What's the deal? Okay.
+
+[27:06] Alright, Derek. Uh the deal is you usually add the eggs, especially in things like cakes, because the eggs can add additional uh leavening, additional air trapping while you're beating them in, as opposed to the flour, which I guess they figure it doesn't. So it's the idea of generating all of your air bubbles uh early in the process. So first creaming to create uh um volume, then adding eggs, usually one at a time to increase the volume and the evenness of the mix to get a light fluffy, aerated mixture before you add your flour uh and then bake it, right? Boom.
+
+[27:34] That's the reason. Now, if A, your recipe doesn't need a lot of extra aeration, or like you don't want to marinated, you know what I mean? What? Like cookie, you know, like for instance, like when I'm making a brownie, right? When I'm making a brownie, uh you get to choose the texture based on how you how you do it.
+
+[27:51] You can go from basically like dense, like fudge master general brownie by melting your butter all the way up to creaming and then beating your egg and proper then folding your flour. You know, you can do a wide range of textures based on on your creaming and or egg adding procedure. So I'm assuming that uh with your recipe, if I first of all, I don't think that when you add the egg is gonna matter, like even like a speck, unless you're beating it enough after you add the egg to full to aerate it more. Do you know what I'm saying? Does that make sense, Nastash?
+
+[28:14] Yeah. You know what I'm saying? And also, I think adding the egg is going to help you incorporate the flour, but on something like a cookie where there's so little moisture anyway, it's not like you're going to develop gluten. You can hit it hard enough to get all of the flour in uh to the recipe without developing gluten. So I think it really is not going to matter much unless you want it for an aeration effect, which I don't think is going to be a big deal in many cookies.
+
+[28:39] What do you think? I think you're right. All right. Score one for me. Alright, now, uh question in from Eve.
+
+[28:48] Uh Eve uh Bergazen, who, by the way, is was a co-student, what do you call it? Classmate of uh our former intern, Tim Oogama. Ugamugga, Ugamaga. Remember Ugama? Yeah.
+
+[29:01] Yeah. Or we we call him Ojima, like Haihachi. Anyway, whatever. He was he looked like tall dude, looks looks kind of Amish, although he isn't, and like and like made fireworks. Really?
+
+[29:11] Yeah, I saw him recently. Tim. Anyway. Hello, Tim, if you're listening. Uh, and Eth.
+
+[29:16] Uh, I'm a graduate of the SEI Culinary Arts program. I work in the pastry department, a craft restaurant. I have an idea and I'm wondering how to execute it. A cold torch. Is there a way to take a tank of liquid nitrogen, a small tank, so that's portable like a blowtorch, and figure out a way to project it into a small stream, much like a blowtorch.
+
+[29:32] It'd be cool to create frozen shells around things. Do you have experience with something like this? Okay. Uh I do not have experience, although there are people that do have experience. What you want to look up is something called a bry mill can, B-R-Y-M, I think, I L L.
+
+[29:45] And they're used by uh dermatologists to freeze warts on people. It's a technique called like cryosurgery or anything like that. And it's basically it looks like a little oil gun, but it's a little liquid nitrogen canister, and you get different nozzles, and it sprays uh small amounts of liquid nitrogen to freeze uh small surface areas. A similar technique was used by uh the Arzaks, you know, Juan Marie Arsac and and uh and et al. Uh where they were basically freezing spots on plates so that they would have a hot plate, they would freeze one spot on the plate and put like an ice cream on that and a hot thing on the rest of the plate so that the you could have a nice hot plate for your whatever and then a cold section for your ice cream on like savory ice creams plated out.
+
+[30:26] Uh they were also using it to inject into chocolate to make these like weird chocolate balloon uh shapes. If you wanted some serious chilling though, uh these are like spot chillers. You're gonna want to get something called a snow horn, snow horn. And what they are is basically you hook them up to a CO2 tank and they just spray out like a like a fog of like hyper cold CO2, and that that's used for kind of flash freezing things. Look up Snowhorn.
+
+[30:51] I think they might be loud. I don't know. I don't have one. They're not that expensive. We could get one.
+
+[30:56] What do you think? Yeah. Weren't we gonna use uh liquid nitrogen to help people with their warts when we were in strapped for cash or sperm bank or something like that? That was your idea. It's it's Nestas always sitting there thinking, like, we got no money.
+
+[31:07] I can't. You know, uh a friend of mine, uh a friend of mine had a medical procedure, and so he uh and it was wiped out his uh it wiped out his his uh sperm because it was bone marrow transplant. And so they had to save his sperm in liquid nitrogen. And he, like like me, has a problem with like you know, paying attention to things like bills, so they kept on sending him messages. We're gonna thaw out your sperm.
+
+[31:30] We're gonna kill your your future offspring if you don't pay. And he didn't pay. And he got the note, like he like he got a stack of them all at once, and he opened them, and like the last one was like, Alright, you know, this is it, we're gonna do it. And it's like it was like dated, like, you know, like saying that they were gonna do it on a Friday, and he read it on a Saturday, and he was like, no, no. So he ran in person on Monday, and they luckily he like hadn't thawed the stuff out.
+
+[31:58] He paid his his back sperm storage fees and has uh two lovely children now. Anyway, uh Kevin from Virginia Beach uh writes in uh I heard on this past week's show uh that uh that you and I, Nastasha U and I uh and McGee were having troubles writing in the rain. I've used Right in the Rain, and that's spelled uh R I T by the R-I T E Right in the Rain uh products pretty extensively, and I can vouch that they work as advertised. As for getting your labels to stick to the wet fruit, good luck. You know, Kevin, you're exactly right.
+
+[32:29] I have Right in the Rain uh lab notebooks. Uh I've been using them for a while. Uh Wiley Dufrein's been using them in the kitchen for a while, and he actually gave me some. I think he got them before I did, and he like likes to give them to his cooks and then throw them into stockpots to make fun of them because they don't get all messed up. Uh they do make great products.
+
+[32:46] Uh and I actually ha had one uh in, but it was packed in my freaking bag. It wasn't with me in the place, and plus Nastasha writes the notes, and she refuses to carry a right in the rain product around. How can you carry the room? You've never given it like a whole stacking to use it for the diary in the city. People out there, people out there listening.
+
+[33:04] Here's what happened. I have a stack of write in the rain stuff, which are meant to be cooking notebooks for your kitchen, right? And she's like, Okay, can I write this uh rip this paper out and use it a post-it note? I'm like, no, no, no, we have stacks of post-it notes. That's what happened.
+
+[33:18] Uh, you know, who are you gonna believe? Who are you gonna believe? Me. Yeah, right, sure. All right.
+
+[33:24] Maybe for people that haven't met the both of us, they would believe you on this. Jack, who do you believe? I'm not gonna get them into it. I'm not gonna get them into it. No, don't no comment.
+
+[33:32] Yeah, no comments. I have no peep with the nostalgia these days. Uh uh. Uh and then before I get to uh the related question, because uh Kevin wants to know uh whether or not there we have any uh recommendations for must-visit food enthusiast destinations similar to the fruit and spice park. Kevin, I'm gonna get back to that.
+
+[33:50] But uh uh Rolf Wind writes in on the same question uh and he says uh in the most recent issues uh uh cooking issues radio broadcast, Dave ranted about the need for weatherproof fruit labeling technology. And he goes, I believe that this technology already exists. Small portable tattooing devices are used to label rodent tails in laboratory settings for animal identification, sometimes just to make them look like badasses. The labels are essentially permanent, labeling is quick to perform. If 200 hour uh mice per hour can be achieved, imagine the number of mangoes one could tattoo.
+
+[34:19] True story, true story. And orchard-friendly battery, uh battery operated systems are available. Their fruit compatibility is suggested by the fact that thick skinned, even waxy fruits are often used as stand-ins for animals during operator training. One of the many examples of this equipment can be found at AnimalID.com. Happy inking, keep up the good work.
+
+[34:37] Uh all right, well, uh, and by the way, that was addressed to Dear Miss Hammer, which I enjoyed. Anyway, Rolf, I love this suggestion, and you got me thinking about a bunch of different things here. Uh the one that you pointed to is the ATS-3 general rodent tattoo system. The problem with it is it's about three grand. And a like cursory view of uh eBay led me to believe uh that they're not widely available on the eBay.
+
+[35:02] I uh maybe I don't know how to how to anyway, like like different combinations of rodents and tattoos, other than tattoos of rodents, don't like show up so much on eBay. Uh so I don't know whether or not I'm I'm searching it uh wrong. But uh I did a quick search, and you can buy a battery-operated tattoo pen, right? You can spend as much as $150 or $200 on one that's professional, but they make one called like ra rabbit it, rabbit it, rabbit it, something like that, rabbit it, like a tattoo pen. It's battery operated, right?
+
+[35:32] And it's got like some sort of like you know, a lifetime guarantee. I haven't seen how waterproof it is, right? But it's just like you know, you take a triple A battery, you put a little ink in it, take it out in the orchard, and you could. I mean, I've never have you used a tattoo pen before? No.
+
+[35:44] Yeah, I have friends who do this for a living. I should ask them like use one. Okay, you're supposed to practice on something like a banana, right? So if we got an ink that didn't bleed too much into the fruit, I mean I'm assuming they use I think like some version of like you know, India ink or something, something nice black, you know, food grade. It's called human grade.
+
+[36:01] How's that is that better or worse than food grade? Human grade. I don't know. Anyway, uh I'm assuming you can just sit there and write the name of the fruit out. What do you think?
+
+[36:10] Yeah. I'm gonna buy one. Rabbit it. It's only that's like I think it's like 40 bucks or something like that. Yeah, anyway, Rolf, thank you so much for putting us on this correct line of thinking because I'm definitely not gonna spend three thousand dollars to tattoo my fruit.
+
+[36:23] But unless someone gives you one. Yeah, if someone gives me like a three thousand dollar fruit tattooing, I'm gonna say yes. Then uh, you know, not gonna turn that down. Um right? Yeah.
+
+[36:34] Okay. Uh now uh to finish this out, another thing we had last week uh that was interesting was I spent a good number of minutes uh insulting uh insulting the uh like science's ability to recreate meat via 3D printing technologies. And literally the day after that, right? The day after that, uh, Nastasha and I had a meeting with uh a a person who helped uh in the co-founding of a company called uh organovo, organovo, right? Organovo.
+
+[37:05] And what organovo does to give you some background is they can do things like grow blood vessels, whole blood vessels, right? And so most of the meat printing technology, what they'll do is they build a scaffold of collagen and then let meat cells grow into that scaffold. And that is to me, as far as food preparation, gross. It's not gonna make good food. You know what I mean?
+
+[37:29] Uh it's not gonna make a good meat substitute. And that's basically what I was ranting against. And also, anyway, well, well, we'll get it. Before I finish- I'm gonna because I'm gonna start ranting again. So wait a minute.
+
+[37:37] So these guys actually print undifferentiated or partially differentiated cells, get them to bind together, they differentiate, and they turn into actual organs like blood vessels that they can graft in if you need a coronary artery transplant, let's say, right? And I was like, holy crap, I had no idea you could do this. Did you know they could do that? I was totally shocked. Crazy, crazy they can do this.
+
+[37:59] They also make human meat tissue not to eat, although they could. They make it because uh drug companies want uh human tissue to test out uh drugs on, and so it's very it's you know much better than using mice tissue or pig tissue, and you know, don't worry, no humans killed, blah blah blah. Anyway, and so he came to us and said, Well, what do you think about the idea that we could print meat? And he's like, I can print out actual muscles in like shape and the way the muscles are made with fat marbling and all that. I have my doubts as to whether it's possible, but if it's possible, is clearly the closest that uh anyone has ever even attempted to get to actually print out something that I would consider food.
+
+[38:42] Because as I said last week, most meat substitutes, it's all about like reproducing some sort of overcooked, horrible, like monotextural pablum crap. You know what I mean? But these guys are saying they can actually do it and then you know, and without killing the animal. So you could, you know, i if they could get uh I'm still have I don't understand scientifically how that they would do things like uh correct for what the animal ate or uh the different enzyme uh makeup that is in a cell based on how long it's been in the animal, because uh I think it said like like let's say you're using a pig to make uh ham. Older pigs have better uh have better um enzyme makeups for making ham.
+
+[39:22] In other words, the muscle breaks down differently. So a ham from an older pig, not just because of fat content or because of myoglobin or any of those things, but simply because of the fact that it's older is gonna make a different ham than a younger younger pig. So I don't know how they're gonna, you know, do things like that. Meat is some complicated business. Do you know what I'm saying?
+
+[39:39] Uh so I I don't know whether that's actually possible to correct for, but if they could, then uh, you know, we could all have manatee steaks. You know, one of my goals is to have a a cruelty-free manatee steak because I told you about this, right? Yeah. Yeah, because manatee, right. I I'm not advocating hurting manatees, please, please do not say that I'm advocating hurting manatees.
+
+[39:58] I'm not, but uh in a in in his book, The Unnatural History of the Sea, uh, the author whose name I forget basically says that we've actually been making animals go extinct for a long, long time. It hasn't been, you know, just recently. Uh and one of his favorite examples is this thing called stellar sea cow, which was uh named after an explorer stellar, and it basically these sea cows are manatees, you know, manatee relatives. And so there's this island in the Pacific where the these manatees were just sitting eating kelp, right? Kelp, you know, kelp forest.
+
+[40:28] So there's big cows like grazing on kelp under the ocean, and they're sitting there. And it's like you know, in a lagoon. So like you could basically look down and see them. And here's the messed up thing, right? No natural enemies.
+
+[40:38] For some reason, this like ecological niche had developed. Uh, and I believe this is like 16 or 1700s is when this was happening. Uh that I can't remember exactly. And so here it is, these things sitting there, herbivores, right? In herds under the water, right?
+
+[40:53] Fresh. And uh, and no enemies. And here they had one downfall. They were delicious, delicious. So people said that that nothing tasted as good.
+
+[41:03] And you know, as well, I don't know, because they're on a ship and they've been eating salted meat for you know months, so who who knows? You know what I mean? It's kind of like when raw food people say something's delicious and they've only had raw food for a week, so if it doesn't taste like literally awful, it's awesome. You know what I mean? So it's hard to tell.
+
+[41:17] But these guys were basically saying that these were the best uh animals in the world because they had no predators, you would like harpoon one, and then like the guy next to them would be like, what was that? Because they're not used to getting killed. And so they didn't even run away. So you could sit there and like you know, kind of butcher them at will, which is awful, awful. Anyway, so it's one of the it was uh made extinct in a in a you know matter of a few short decades because it was delicious.
+
+[41:40] But ever since that, of course, because I'm perverse, my idea is man, I wonder what those things tasted like. So these guys, these guys can get you the cruelty-free manatee steak cooking issues. Fishes, fish. Oh, you daddy wrap. Got me on this corner.
+
+[42:12] And I don't know where I'm at. Figure on the Pole and City Winery are proud to present the Summer Barbecue Blowout Festival, August 6th from noon to 4 p.m. The barbecue is happening at City Winery, located at 155 Varrick Street in New York City. Restaurants featured at this event are Empire Mayonnaise, Van Dag, Momofuco Mofar, Imperial No. 9, My Land, Mexico, Craft, Dizzy's Club, Coca-Cola, The Meatball Shop, and Dose Torres.
+
+[42:42] Providing the soundtrack for the day are Midnight Magic, Pewter Magic, New Villager, Punches, Ducky, DJ Autobot, and the Snacky Tune DJ. VIP and General Admission tickets are available at CityWinery.com. Finger on the Pole for City Winery, we'd like to thank our sponsors, Heritage Foods USA, New York magazine, Rake of vodka, Sonar, Smile, Guilt City, Sub Zero and Wolf. Please come out and join us for a day of fun, food, and dancing. For more information, go to www.fotpnyc.com.
\ No newline at end of file
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+[0:00] If you're a therapist listening, you already know your work doesn't magically end when the session does. There's scheduling, notes, billing, insurance follow-ups, all of the admin that happens before and after the work you actually care about. That's where Simple Practice comes in. Simple Practice is an all-in-one EHR built specifically for therapists with HIPAA compliant tools and high trust certification. No juggling systems or cutting corners just to keep things moving.
+
+[0:26] Scheduling, documentation, billing, insurance, client communication, even automated appointment reminders. It all lives in one place. And if you're starting or growing a practice, Simple Practice also offers a credentialing service that helps simplify insurance enrollment, which can be a huge lift alone. It's no surprise Simple Practice is trusted by over 250,000 health and wellness professionals. Start with a seven-day free trial, then get 50% off your first three months.
+
+[0:55] Go to Simplepractice.com to claim the offer. That's Simplepractice.com. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com, bringing you the freshest radio in Brooklyn since 2009. Hear directly from chefs to farmers, artists to architects, authors to brewers, and everyone in between. Check out all of our shows on our website or by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store.
+
+[1:25] The following message has been brought to you by Fairway Market. What's the buzz about honey? Well, those busy little bees are up to something, and it is delicious. The Fairway label Honey is superb. Fairway only hires worker bees that are the best at what they do.
+
+[1:40] This makes for a great tasting, high-quality honey at an amazing value with the Fairway stamp of approval. And on top of being delicious, honey is a great substitute for other sweeteners and can even benefit your health. This includes better energy, respiratory improvements, and balanced blood sugar levels. It's a no-brainer. Get your fairway honey today.
+
+[2:10] Hello, and welcome to Cooking Issues. I'm Dave Arnold, the host of Cooking Issues coming to you live on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from 12 to 1245. Joined as always in the studio with Nastasha De Hammer Lopez. Call all of your cooking or non-cooking related. We'll take anything, right?
+
+[2:23] Yeah. Do you have any subjects you want them to talk about today? No. No, no random questions you want? No.
+
+[2:28] No? What stores maybe Nastasha likes to shop in? Things of this material. And return things too. Return.
+
+[2:33] I wasn't gonna bring it up. No, no, we're not going. I wasn't gonna go. I wasn't gonna go there. But if anyone wants to call in and go there, please go there.
+
+[2:39] Call in all of your questions too. 718497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. I still haven't memorized that thing, you know, Nastasha. I still have to have you write it out every single time.
+
+[2:49] I know. And if you're not here, I have to have Jack Sane on the air. Wow. Good stuff, huh? Yeah.
+
+[2:54] Jack, I think uh we're gonna leave the uh the uh break music in your hands today. Maybe you can nice pick some good stuff. He seems to be coming up with some good stuff recently, right? He does. I'm on a roll.
+
+[3:02] Oh, he is, he totally is. What was the one you came up with last time? That was really good. Some uh training. Oh, the L train song, yeah.
+
+[3:09] Nastash was the late one last week. Usually I'm the late one. Well, good news is you beat Nastasha here again today. I know, it's because we're we're reversing roles. How awful would that be?
+
+[3:19] Oh my god. Anyway, glad to say that Cooking Issues the Blog is back on a roll with a uh we finally I finally got the fruit post out. Looks good. It's good, right? Mm-hmm.
+
+[3:28] Now all I have to do is write the second part of the fruit post. The centrifuge post, the lime juice post, the uh how many of the sous videos. TV primer post, the uh how many other posts do I have that I have not yet written? Knots. Well, the knots, that's from like years ago.
+
+[3:44] I have posts from like years ago I haven't written. Not only that, before we get on to the uh actual topics of the day. Oh, Nastasha says, why am I sweating profusely? Oh, I said wipe your face. Oh, wipe my face.
+
+[3:56] Yes, well, I biked here in the beautiful Brooklyn weather today, which is um it's it's like it's raining up from the ground. It's like the ground is raining up into the sky. That's how humid it is. And what's awesome about biking in that kind of weather, when it's really hot, is your body can't cool it off from science. It's awesome.
+
+[4:13] But I am I am uh I'm collecting all of my sweat in a pool here on the floor. Maybe we can make a small swimming pool out of it. Hopefully I don't jack short out all of your equipment. Uh anyways, uh what were we talking about before that? Posts you have to write the blogs back.
+
+[4:26] Yeah, but oh uh I have a not that I have time for this because I don't, but I have a new, I have a new blog that I'm also not gonna update. I bought I ain't messing around.com. And what else? Uh I ain't fling around.com. I bought that too, although that one's not safe for work.
+
+[4:43] But so like I had this idea that the problem with cooking issues, right? Many problems with cooking issues, but one of the problems of cooking issues is is that I can't uh seem to do anything short, and I have to spend like 15 hours of research every time I even write three words because I'm a jerk. I'm an idiot. You know what I mean? Like my my sister-in-law Miley Carpenter, who's married to uh my so my wife's sister Miley, wife is also a badass.
+
+[5:06] Miley runs the Food Network magazine. I mean, she's I mean she's the editor in chief. She started it, she founded it. Total badass. Uh, you know, anyways, she's married to Wiley Dufrain, so it's pretty hardcore, hardcore family I got.
+
+[5:19] Miley has always been able to just research what she needs to know and write a great article. Why can't we all be like Miley? I guess if we were all like Miley, we'd all be extremely successful journalists and editors. Guess that's why we're not like Miley. Anyway, so the whole point of this new thing was that it wouldn't be food related, and I can write anything I want.
+
+[5:36] For instance, how much I want you to wear your damn helmet when you're biking across the Williamsburg Bridge, or how you should keep your hands on the handlebars when you're biking in the street, and there's lots of pedestrians walking around. Things like that, right? Yeah. Have you seen the jerk going across the Williamsburg Bridge on his fixed gear bike, and he takes his feet off the freaking pedals when he's going downhill? Where does he put them?
+
+[5:56] He puts them on the top tube. For those of you who don't know what a fixed gear bike is, it's a bike where the the pedals are actually linked to the gear such that every time the wheel moves, the pedal moves. There's no freewheeling, there's no coasting. And so the idea is you're supposed to stay in touch with the road because your feet keep moving, and this guy's like, hey, I'm too lazy, and I want to go faster down the bridge, so I'm gonna take my feet off the pedals. Moron.
+
+[6:16] There are people walking down that thing, even on the bike side with baby carriages. Now they're morons too. But I mean, seriously. Anyway, so that's the kind of stuff you have to look forward to. The guy with the fixed gear probably ends up here.
+
+[6:31] Little Robertus hipster joke for you. Anyway, so uh hey, no offense to the fixies out there. I ride a fixed gear bike, but I keep my feet on the pedals and I have both brakes, alright? Because I'm not in it for the first of all, I have the least sexy bike on earth. Anyway, okay, sorry, sorry, sorry.
+
+[6:45] We're gonna we're gonna run out of time if I don't. Oh, one more thing. Next week is the uh is the year. Next week, Nathan Mirval live on Cooking Issues Radio. You're gonna call in your questions for Nathan Mirvold.
+
+[6:57] What? Is that you? Oh my god. You know what happens, folks? This is first and last time you'll hear my telephone go off during the broadcast.
+
+[7:04] The uh deal is my kids turn uh play angry birds on my iPad iPhone and they turn the sound back on. Anywho, I apologize for that seven minute rant uh uh uh of nothing. But uh I would hope you would call in your questions right now to 7184972128, that's 7184972128. But if not, at least call in. Make me look good for Miraval, will you, people?
+
+[7:24] Will you call in? And there's free giveaways. Oh, yeah, free giveaways. Like maybe, I don't know, like a modernist cuisine apron that's signed by those guys. What else we give in, are we giving me?
+
+[7:33] Maybe the book. No. Nastasha says maybe the book's what they're gonna call in. Listen, please don't get your hopes out. This is what I love about Nastasha and Hate, is that she'll sit here and lie.
+
+[7:45] It's not really a lie, it's her hope. But it's just not gonna happen. But she has this way in her head of turning hope, trying to turn hope into reality. Yes. Like when we got uh Merle Haggard to skull, she's like, Well, uh, we want him to school, maybe he will.
+
+[7:57] And he did, but in this case, I don't think so. I th you know I think the modernist cuisine. If Jesus came down and said, Nathan, can I have a free copy of the book? Nathan would say, You're Jesus, you can afford it. Am I right about this?
+
+[8:10] We have an autographed apron here. We have the autographed apron. It's gonna be awesome. By the way, that's not a slight to Mirvold. Did that seem like a slight to Mirvold?
+
+[8:18] It's not a slight, that's just the way I talk. Right. When I'm not in the air, probably I I'll go back to my professional tone. All right. Talk so long with my iPad shut off.
+
+[8:25] Okay. Ben Bennett writes in, says, Why not twist tie something to the fruit? We're talking about the tattooing fruit from last week and the week before. Uh it was, I believe his name, I forget, Rolf Wind, I think was the person who uh Rolf, right? Yeah.
+
+[8:38] Wind who uh came in. And I tried to Google him. I think he's a like a a pharmacy uh like a pharmacy researcher and a cyclist, an avid cyclist. I bet he wears a helmet. Mm-hmm.
+
+[8:47] Anyway, um, I was told in the Netherlands they don't wear helmets, and I was like, it's because their bikes weigh eight thousand pounds and they do two miles an hour on those flat roads. Yeah, I mean it's like anyway, whatever. Okay, uh instead of using a tattoo gun, which is what Rolf said, I would get a bunch of plastic twit twist ties, twist, twist ties in a bunch uh of colors, write numbers down on them with a sharpie before you go out in the field, and then tag a fruit with a numbered twist tie, and then that way you have to keep track of what's going on with my right in the rain notebook, which we all agree right in the rain notebooks are good things. Uh I have one in my bag right now. Or do the same thing with pre-numbered plastic bags.
+
+[9:21] That's a good idea, like Ziplocks or whatever, uh, rather than twist ties. All right, seems less complex than a tattoo gun, but less cool. Definitely less cool. I've tried various things like bags and whatnot. Here's what happens.
+
+[9:35] Whenever you're out in the field, everything turns to crap. This is what I've noticed. Like you're out there, you're tasting things, you're sticky, you have fruit paste all over you because Nastasha's blown some sort of nasty fruit out of her mouth, and she hasn't looked where she's spitting and it gets all over your shirt. You know, juices are dripping down your hands, you're like it's raining, there's bugs everywhere, and you're trying to get the fruit into your bag. Correct, this is true, right?
+
+[9:56] Yeah. This is how it works. And so, you know, we tried many things. The last time, uh, and you'll see the post, uh, you know, the mango thing, you know, if should I ever write it, uh, that comes up is uh the one thing that ended up working at the end was c literally carving the name of the fruit into the fruit with a pen knife, which is a pain in the butt. Uh, but uh I'll tell you this.
+
+[10:16] We will we will try these various things because how are you gonna get the twist tie to stay around the fruit? Depends on the fruit. I thought about that. Depends on the fruit. It has a stem or something.
+
+[10:22] I mean, you can shove something through the fruit, but then it's gonna damage it. Anyway, listen to this, uh, Ben and Rolf. I purchased uh a rabbit tattoo gun called the Easy Tat. There's a competitor, I think, made by the same company called the Rabbit Cat. And uh I purchased one for 50 bucks, and uh, it's a little tattoo gun, and it works.
+
+[10:40] I this I got it last night, I tried it this morning on some lemons. I have to try some other fruits. On lemons, it's really hard to see the tattoo without ink. And I think filling up with ink is a pain in the butt. But what you can do is tattoo it and then like rub an ink stamp over it real quick and rub it and the tattoo stays there.
+
+[10:58] I'm trying to think of real simple, real waterproof. I don't want to have to carry a liquid ink with me because that's not gonna work. I have a feeling on more delicate fruits like mangoes or fruits that oxidize like apples, that I'll be able to read it fine without ink. The lemon, if you let it sit around for a while and the skin starts drying off, and you hold a shine of light on it, you can see where the tattoo was even without ink. So I am working on it, but I think for 50 bucks, I'm going to Colombia soon, and I hope to pick up some crazy fruits in the markets at Columbia.
+
+[11:25] I'm gonna carry my easy tat uh on the uh trip with me and see whether or not I can label some fruits. So we'll get some real world world tests of this and we'll see if we can get a good uh test for uh fruit heads in, right? Mm-hmm. What do you think? On a similar note, uh there is I'm trying to find it because I'm a moron.
+
+[11:44] Hold on. Uh uh uh uh Joshua Rosenwasser just moved from Tampa, Florida to Antigua, and he wants to know whether there's any kind of wild edibles he can forage for down there in Antigua. Well, uh, oh well, Joshua, uh the here's the one problem. I've never been to the Caribbean in my whole life, and one of the reasons is is because I think I mentioned uh several times I hate paradise. Uh I hate it.
+
+[12:10] Like, you know, like really nice beaches uh and sun. It's horrible, horrible. But I'm sure if you go out into the forest, it's gonna be, you know, or the you know, whatever they have there, it's gonna be nice. I did some preliminary research for you, and there's one of the problems is is that Antigua appears to be one of the driest of those islands. So even though they have some tropical fruits growing on those islands, they tend to import a lot of them from kind of wetter uh neighbors where they have a wider range of stuff that they can grow.
+
+[12:37] So I wish I could be more of help. But I remember that a couple weeks ago, somebody asked a question. I answered the first half of their question and then spun off into a tangent, and their question was very rightly so. Where are other places that you can go forage, not forage, but go to to taste things other than the fruit and spice park? Well, uh, I forget who asked it, but I'm glad you asked, I'm gonna lump in with the question here.
+
+[12:58] Uh I'll just tell you first the places that I've already gone, uh, some with most with Nastasha, uh, went to the Geneva, uh, the Geneva, New York, uh, the Agricultural Extension Geneva York, which is an extension of Cornell, but it's also linked up with the federal government. That has all of uh the the largest collection of apples in the world. Uh it also has a decent collection of other things like uh grapes uh and whatnot, and it's fairly easy to get in there and run rampant like a lunatic, like pretty easy, right? Uh another one uh that uh Nastasha and I went to that we uh blogged about was the uh Brogdale collection. Uh it's the uh it's in Kent in Faversham, and uh it is amazing.
+
+[13:41] It has the largest culinary apple collection as opposed to just apple collection, has a huge collection of pears, has a huge collection of currants and other small fruits, has an amazing selection of cherries, also of plums, and I believe uh filberts, filbert nuts, and a smattering of other of other things. And it's also that one is open to the public, you just go, they don't want you to go in there and take the fruit off the trees. I think for insurance reasons, but just do it anyway. Just go steal all the fruits anyway. That's where I would go.
+
+[14:09] Uh then uh if you're friends with uh a guy named Gene Lester in um in uh in California in Watsonville, that's the best citrus collection we've ever been to. You can if you join the California Flu Fruit Explorers, I think is the name of it, or California Rare Fruits, one of those. If you join them, you get invited to the yearly thing at Gene Lester's uh ranch, and you can eat as much as you want there. Uh I want to go to Corvalis, which is uh in um Portland, and that's where our collection of pears and berries is. Apparently, one of the greatest collections of pears and berries in the world.
+
+[14:39] I want to go there. Uh there's a couple of places I know uh Nastasha wants to go. There's a couple of great botanical gardens, I think, in the Ukraine, right? In Kiev, I want to go to. Uh you know, I want to go to Kazakhstan where it's natural.
+
+[14:50] Where else am I forgetting? There's tons of places I want to go. Anyway, if any of you guys can think of some good places that we haven't gone, I want to go. I want to go to the New York Botanical Garden, which I go to all the time. They have one of the world's largest collect uh collection of alliums, onions and garlic.
+
+[15:02] Can you can you eat them? I doubt you can eat them there. Well, you take them and you cook them. I mean you wouldn't eat them raw. No, no, no, but they let you take them.
+
+[15:10] Well, I don't know. You gotta get the right, it's all about getting the right person on the phone. You know what I mean? It's like, you know, it's just if you get the right person on the phone, everything's good. If you get the wrong person on the phone, life is terrible.
+
+[15:19] Anyway, uh, second part of uh second part of Joshua's question was uh they have a lot of uh callaloo, callow is a big recipe uh recipe, you know, slash green down in the Caribbean, which are the tops of tarot plants, but also known locally as spinach and is abundant and cheap. Are there any recipes besides a standard long simmer with thyme and onions? Uh, you know, look I don't have a lot of experience uh with it, but it's not only tarot they use for that, that you can use like a bunch of different greens. And basically, I wish I could help you here, but I want someone else to call in and give us some good recipes. Basically, it's just greens simmered for a whole hell of a long time with uh usually with some sort of allium and spices, and then either blended to make the smooth soup.
+
+[16:00] You can also add some salt pork or bacon or whatever, or or seafood or crab, or you can keep it like a stew and keep it chunky. I mean, I think anything that you could do with greens with a soup, you could do with that, or with like nettle, because the thing with if you do use taro uh leaves, which is you know dashin, if you use that, you need to cook it because uh it's otherwise toxic. Which leads me to another awesome toxic plant, which was first brought I forget who told me about it. Crap. Anyway, called Mayan spinach.
+
+[16:26] We saw that in the fruit and spice park in the poisonous plant section. It it has uh it'll kill you. Cyanide poisoning if you eat it raw, but if you cook it, it apparently is one of the most nutritious greens in the world. Chaya. Love to try it.
+
+[16:38] We should have stolen like you know what the problem is when we were down there, we had no kitchen, we couldn't cook anything. Yeah, we did. No, we no, we didn't, not not after that day. Yeah, yeah, we did after that first day. So I should have stolen, I should have stolen a bunch of that stuff and cooked it.
+
+[16:51] That was the next cooked. I'm an idiot. Next time, next time. Well, you know, it was just raining like cats and dogs, and we were doing that event with uh with uh Jeremiah Bullfrog at the from Gastropod down in Miami, so we were much more worried about what we're gonna do for that event than what we were gonna have for dinner that night, which is stupid. You should always worry about what you're gonna have for dinner that night.
+
+[17:09] We had a good dinner. We cooked fish. We had an oak, yeah, we had an okay dinner. I would say it was a great dinner. Remember, it took us eight years to get the charcoal lift.
+
+[17:17] Because it was like, you know, the charcoal was basically like soaking wet. Anyways, let's go to our first commercial break. Call in your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues. Here I come.
+
+[17:37] You can have on a couple. Hello and welcome back to Cooking Issues. Calling all your questions to 718 497 2128. That's 718 497 2128. Chris Gibb from Toronto, Canada.
+
+[18:34] For some reason I wrote Toronto, California on my on my iPad, but it's not Toronto's not in California, it's in Canada. About fixing vacuum machines. Hey Dave, I've come across a vacuum machine that isn't working properly, and I want to buy it cheaply and fix it. It runs through a cycle normally until it's about to release the vacuum. This is when it makes a loud noise and starts again from the beginning and just keeps going through this cycle until you turn it off.
+
+[18:55] I was wondering if you had any ideas or if you think it's hopeless. Any thoughts on this would be awesome. Thanks. Huh, that's an interesting problem. Um it sounds like it's probably uh fairly easy to fix.
+
+[19:08] The good thing is that the important part of a vacuum machine is the motor, right? Is the vacuum pump. That's expensive. So if it's a real vacuum machine, we're talking by the way, folks, about a chamber vacuum machine, I assume, a professional vacuum machine, and they start, the smallest ones start at like 1500, 2000 bucks. They go up to about four grand for ones you normally get in a restaurant, right?
+
+[19:29] So they're they're not cheap. And if the pump is working and sucking a vacuum, if it's actually sucking a vacuum, right, you've won most of the battle, right? Now here's what I would check out first. I can't tell exactly what's going on because it's not like a normal situation of uh troubleshooting wise, it's not normal. I wouldn't expect it to do exactly that.
+
+[19:48] I would expect it to um make a loud noise and then not start again unless there's something weird going on. I wouldn't expect it to start again until it had evacuated. Here's what sounds like might be happening. There's a when what happens in a vacuum machine is you close the lid, the vacuum cycle starts, it sucks out all the air. After it sucks out the air and it's done sucking the vacuum, it stops sucking the vacuum, it puts the seal bar up and seals your bag.
+
+[20:14] After which it lets the air back into the machine, and or sometimes it has gas flush, right, which puts gas back in, right? Uh, and and then and then there you go. So any one of those things could be wrong. If it's sucking a vacuum, you know you're good, right? Then if it seals the bag, you know it at least makes it to that part in the cycle.
+
+[20:32] It sounds if it's making a loud noise, either sh maybe it's trying to do a gas flush and it can't because the gas flush is plugged if it has a gas flush. The other thing that could be going wrong is that the uh air release valve could be broken, right? In which case it's not releasing the air properly. Any one of those things could be going wrong. Assuming that it's not one of those things, uh, and it's a problem with the electronics board, the electronics board is is a lot harder to fix.
+
+[20:56] You can get new electronics boards, but even if you have like minor electrical skills and you don't want to actually fix the electronics, you can just hardwire the thing to basically turn it on and then press stop and just bypass all the circuitry and run all the stuff manually, right? Because it's all basically just solenoid valves that you can run off the thing. So I would say either one of the solenoids that's venting the thing is broken, or you have an electronics problem, or you have a blockage in one of the lines. Any one of those things seems a lot easier than fixing the pump. What do you think, Nastasha?
+
+[21:23] Yes, I think that's right. Because we have a machine that was given to Nastasha by Mark Ladner from Del Posto. That's really nice. And the pump starts up, but the sucker doesn't start a vacuum, which means they need to rebuild the whole vacuum pump. Now that's a pain in the patoot, right?
+
+[21:36] What'd the guy say was gonna cost us? Like 250 labor. Yeah, no, you see, that's the thing. This is Nastasha hoping against hope. 250 to show up.
+
+[21:44] It's 250 to hang his hat on the inside of our door, right? That's 250 bucks. Then another like whatever, an hour to sit there and go, Yeah, that's broken. Yeah, it's broken, right? And then, and then here's the other one.
+
+[21:58] Oh, I don't have those pots right now. I don't have those. No. I gotta order those pots. Right?
+
+[22:03] And then another charge when he comes back with the parts, plus taking the thing apart. Right? I mean, come on, we all know how this stuff goes. Anyway, uh no offense to the vacuum repair people out there. All right.
+
+[22:16] And I want to hear someone saying that Dave is prejudiced against vacuum machine repair people. Yeah, you know what maybe did. Maybe pooped his pants. Maybe, maybe. Old old expression, please don't ask.
+
+[22:28] Okay. Hey, we got a thank you from uh Mike who wrote in a couple weeks ago. We were talking about marshmallows. He was having problems with his marshmallow sticking, and says that what we said on the air actually helped him out. That's awesome.
+
+[22:40] Yeah, hey, right? Jack's happy, we're like a happy customer. We have at least one. We have one person that we have helped. Right, yeah.
+
+[22:49] Everything's finally worth it. Good, good. All right. Uh Henry Schwartz writes in with some sous-vide and uh low temperature questions. In case there's anyone who happened to just tune in and was trying to tune in to the wrong radio station but listened to us and doesn't know what low temperature cooking is.
+
+[22:59] Low temperature in Sous vide is any time. Sous vide is any time you have something packaged in a vacuum bag, right? No matter what temperature you use. Could be boiling bag, could be uh could be low temperature, could just be in your refrigerator. That's Sous vide.
+
+[23:14] Low temperature is when you're instead of using a high temperature like an oven uh at like 300 degrees to cook something, you use something like a water bath that's almost exactly the same temperature you want to cook to. So I want to cook a steak to 130 degrees Fahrenheit, I set my water bath to 130 degrees Fahrenheit, and I usually cook inside of a bag, plastic bag or something like that. That's that's low temperature cooking. So here's what uh Harry Schwartz has to say. I'm an amateur cook who love to try new techniques.
+
+[23:40] I did a summer cooking camp for kids in the neighborhood, and the parents pitched in to buy me a Sous vide Supreme machine. Nice parents, good job. Uh home version of what you guys use. The Sous vide Supreme is the one that doesn't circulate. It's basically a uh a temperature controlled water bath.
+
+[23:53] I think it's about 500 bucks. I've never used them. Someone suggested your site uh and listened to a few episodes on your radio show. Uh I think it's great, but the more I listen and read up on Sous vide, the more I confused I get. You're not alone, my friend.
+
+[24:05] You're not alone. My question is why is there such a great difference in suggested cooking times and temperatures for Sous vide cooking? I wanted to do short ribs as my first Sous vide experiment and saw recipes for two to three days of cooking. It didn't make sense. So I called one of my favorite restaurants in Philadelphia, LaCroix, and Chef Adam there suggested 130 degrees Fahrenheit for eight hours, which worked perfectly.
+
+[24:23] I see you see uh well, let's just start right there before we go on. The reason why there are different times and temperatures is because different people want different effects when they're cooking. Okay. So uh I know you said that it doesn't make sense that you're cooking something for two or three days. And in fact, when you're learning low temperature in Sous vide, the hardest thing to wrap your head around, honestly, is that meat is not going to overcook when you cook it for that long.
+
+[24:48] I like uh Wiley Dufrein, my current brother-in-law, was the first person to tell me that years and years and years ago. And I was like, you're cracked, you're crazy. There's no way you can cook a piece of meat for three days and not have it overcooked. Once you get over that hurdle, right, then all these recipes are going to start making sense to you. Okay.
+
+[25:04] Recipes overcook in the traditional sense of becoming well done, overcook, because um you're cooking at a higher temperature than you want to cook the meat to. So as you cook longer, the more and more overdone it's gonna get, the more and more dry it's gonna get, because you're basically cooking all the water out of the meat, right? Uh that's not what happens low temperature. When you're cooking low temperature or sous vide low temperature, um, you cook the meat to exactly the temperature you want it to cook to, and then it just stays there. The meat no longer overcooks in the sense of it doesn't squeeze all of its water out anymore, doesn't turn gray, doesn't have any of those traditional overcooked things happen to it, right?
+
+[25:43] It doesn't turn tough. What happens instead is you hold it at a particular level of doneess, and then over a long period of time, the connective tissue breaks down, right? And it starts getting softer and more and more tender. Okay. So if you take a piece of meat that doesn't have very much connective tissue in it, let's say a tenderloin, right, and you cook it for a long time, it starts losing what little texture it has and it turns mushy.
+
+[26:09] When you have something like a short rib and you're cooking it to 130, which is like a hundred, which is like 55, I think, or 50 55 Celsius, something like that, which is pretty rare, right? It takes a long time, uh like three days, to break down the connective tissue in that rib and have it get tender again, right? If you started out with a fairly tender short rib that didn't have a lot of connective tissue, maybe after eight hours it's gonna be okay. Usually the short ribs that I cook, if I'm gonna cook them down at that temperature, like 55, like by by 24 hours, it still has the texture of like a skirt steak, which I think is delicious. And I think Carlo here at Roberta sells what he calls a short rib skirt steak or something like that.
+
+[26:47] Uh he does something like that, like 24 hours at roughly 55, 57 degrees uh Celsius, um, which is 130 to 135, somewhere in that range Fahrenheit. And so you can do that, right? But the the so basically these long cooking times at different temperatures are uh because they're holding the meat at a certain level of doneness and then uh and then basically waiting for the texture to turn to what they want. If you cook it too long, it goes to mush. If you don't cook it long enough, it's just not tender enough, okay?
+
+[27:15] Uh and the higher the and there's a range of temperatures that'll work. So a short rib, you can make a short rib that's rare, like 150, 100 and uh sorry, 55 Celsius, like 130 or so. Most people prefer it a little bit higher, like 60 degrees Celsius or so, which is 140, right? And and the even that five degrees more radically chops the cooking time down from three days to two days, right? 63 degrees Celsius, which is a little high for me, uh, if you're gonna do low temperature work, now you're down to like a day, a little over a day.
+
+[27:45] So basically it's getting a feeling for how the cooking times and the temperatures interact. There's no right or wrong answer. There's a question of is it tender enough for you? Okay. Is this making any sense, Nastasha?
+
+[27:55] Yes. Okay. So the other question is uh uh I suggest, I being me, uh chicken breasts for 45 to 90 minutes at 63 degrees Celsius, which is uh I do, and the Sou V cookbook cookbook, which came with the unit, suggests two hours, the same sixty-three Celsius. Don't understand why there's a difference there. Um I just don't think it needs the full two hours.
+
+[28:14] It definitely doesn't need the full two hours from a pasteurization standpoint. Um and I think that chicken breast, once it's done, doesn't get any better. I think it starts losing its texture. Uh and so as soon as it's done, I like to pull it. I don't think it there it's not gonna break down on you right away, but when we ran a test where we cooked the chicken breast for a long time and then ate it by itself with no sauce, with nothing added, no searing, anything.
+
+[28:38] Just what does the meat taste like? The meat didn't taste as good the longer we cooked it on chicken breast. Uh but you know, if you're gonna sauce it up or if you're gonna serve it cold or any one of these things, I think it might not make as much of a difference, right? Um, so that's that's that. Uh he has a second question, so we're gonna these are these are great actual questions.
+
+[28:55] So by the way, at the end he said uh uh he would appreciate a quick answer on these uh if possible. He doesn't think these questions are interesting enough for the show, uh, which I disagree. I think these are things people really want to know about low temperature and sous vide cooking. And he says, besides, this is a good one. I'm a year behind in listening, so it might take a while to find the answer to my question.
+
+[29:12] Well, listen up, because uh, you know, the odds that I'll write the answer are roughly what? Zero, right? Basically zero. Um second question is vacuuming liquids. Uh the vac where do you find a vacuum uh machine that lets you add liquids?
+
+[29:28] The one that came with the machine and the one I have at home don't work with liquids. You're right. I wouldn't even use a vacuum machine, frankly. Uh I would bag everything in ziplocks. Uh I find that the tech the temp you know the texture is sometimes better.
+
+[29:40] It's easier because you don't need to chill the items before you put them in. Most people, when they're vacuuming liquids in those bags, they have to freeze the liquids before they put them in the bags, which is a huge pain in the butt. And just I I never use it. I had a vacuum machine at home. I have an impulse sealer now, which I use to uh seal things like you know, you know, potato chip bags and stuff like that.
+
+[29:59] But I don't do uh I don't use vacuum at home. At home I use almost exclusively Ziploc. Now you won't be able to do vacuum um infusion techniques with that, but you can't really do that with one of those home units anyway. So I would just learn to seal in Ziploc. It's a lot faster, and there's instructions for it on my uh on the blog.
+
+[30:16] And he says he downloaded the Sous vide, such as it is. Don't get me started. I know I need to write more of it. Uh but are there any cookbooks on Sue V you would recommend for the home cook? No, not really, right?
+
+[30:25] There's there's a Keller Sous vide cookbook, but if you don't have a vacuum machine, I mean you I would get it. The pictures are pretty, but it doesn't explain a lot of the how and the why. Juan Roka's book, uh you know, Sous vide cuisine is great, but it's 158 dollars and it's all restaurant recipes. I haven't read the recent installation of Doug uh Doug Baldwin's uh sous vide. Um I haven't uh obviously Victor Stanford has a book that I do not buy that book.
+
+[30:50] I think his temperatures are all out of whack. And then if you have 500 bucks, buy the monitor's cuisine cookbook because that's gonna have a lot of good stuff in it. But that's you know, 500 bucks, right? But they might win it next week. Nastashi, will you not please do not tell people that they're gonna win a copy of that book next week because then people are gonna say they said I'll be like, no, Nastasha said that you might win a copy of the book.
+
+[31:11] You're not gonna win a copy of the book next week, but you're gonna have a very rare opportunity to call in and personally ask Nathan Dirable the question. What? And get an apron. And get an apron. Alright, listen, uh, we're gonna do another break.
+
+[31:21] Call in all your questions. Two 718497-2128 7184972128 cooking issues. Following is a public service announcement from Heritage Radio Network. Tune in to the Speakeasy every Wednesday at three PM, where host Damon Volti will discuss cocktails, spirits, wine, beer, tea, coffee, and all things in the liquid universe. With guests ranging from bartenders and brewers, alchemists and ambassadors, roasters and regulars, and every expert and enthusiast in between.
+
+[33:22] Learn from some of the world's leading experts in mixology, bar history, distillation, and brewing about how we enjoy imbibing today. Again, that's every Wednesday at 3 p.m. on the Heritage Radio Network. Welcome back to Cookie Issues. Damon Bolti, one of our tall, thin bartending friends with a tall, thin, identical twin.
+
+[33:43] Yeah. You think he ever has his identical twin go into the bar instead of him? No, they look pretty different. Really? Mm-hmm.
+
+[33:49] I've seen mainly the name and I haven't really seen the uh identical twins so much. I have. He makes delicious drinks, though. We've never had his drinks at the at the bar. Have you?
+
+[33:58] He's out here, isn't he? Yeah, I think so, yeah, but we've never been. We've only had his drinks at events. I like how Nastasi says out here for anything in in Brooklyn. Yeah, well, you know, she's uh she's a Manhattan chauvinist.
+
+[34:11] You know what? I want some please, can we get some angry hipsters calling in here and shouting Nastasha down? That's what we need. We need a little bit of what I am back here. Anyway, yeah, Nastasha, Nastasha and Hipsters, like, you know, don't get along so well.
+
+[34:24] You know, she's like the the anti-hipster machine, which is weird because she spends most of her time out here and spends most of her time with hipsters. No, I don't. That is not Oh, Jack. I could say one horrible thing is right now. Uh wait, so all of a sudden that's a horror.
+
+[34:37] You literally insult, like literally, like I could go into the restaurant, which is I can look at it from here. And if I were to say this lady hates hipster, she would get a beatdown. Because there's enough women hipsters in there that can hit her, they'll give her a beatdown. Fair point. Yeah.
+
+[34:51] Alright. Uh got oh, got a an email uh questioning during the show from Paul Peterson. And by the way, we won't bite. You can call live unless you're. Well, he said it didn't work when he called.
+
+[35:02] Oh, is it work? No, it did not work. Oh, calling didn't work? Yeah. Am I reading the number wrong?
+
+[35:07] 7184972128. Am I reading it wrong? Anyway. Instead of uh, instead of using ink with my tattoo gun, he says, perhaps I could use a leaf off the tree and drive little particles of leaf into the fruit. That's a genius idea.
+
+[35:22] I like that a lot because you're always gonna have a leaf when you're picking fruit. Right? Right? I'm gonna give that a try. I don't have any leaves.
+
+[35:29] But I'll just rip a leaf off a tree outside, and I'll see whether I can shoot it into something like a lemon or I'll try to get some waxy leaves too, some thicker waxy leaves to see what's going on. That's a very good idea, because you always have a leaf. Oh, I know No, he's saying tattoo the damn leaf and keep it with the fruit. He's saying through a leaf into the skin. Yeah, but also if we keep if we steal some of the fruit with it.
+
+[35:52] Just imagine. See, this I love Nastasha. She's like, you always gotta keep someone around who thinks nothing's ever gonna work. Here's the weird thing about Nastasha, right? Seven modernists because she she yeah, like anything that somebody else says, she's like, oh, that's gonna be terrible.
+
+[36:04] It's not gonna work, it's gonna suck. And yet if she gets it in her head that she wants it, she believe it happened no matter what. Right? No, but imagine the leaf and the keeping it today. Imagine the leaf.
+
+[36:14] Oh my god, it's gonna come off. Right? Crazy. Crazy. Anyway.
+
+[36:19] So uh Chris writes in about uh MSG. Hi, Dave and Nastasha. Apparently, Nastasia uh hates the way I pronounce it. Even though we've been working together for you can't say it like that. It's too weird.
+
+[36:32] Yeah, okay. So now she wants me to say it the mispronounced way. Anyway, uh I thought I was good as long as I didn't say Natasha. Yeah, yeah, basically. All right, okay.
+
+[36:40] Uh I was hoping you could help with a question. I have a recent customer uh uh I've had a recent customer questions about products we use that contain MSG. Monosodium glutamate. Taking a step further, I had a customer tell me that hydrolyzed protein and MSG are the same thing, and that if you have a sensitivity to one, then you have a sensitivity to both. Most of our bases have one or the other, as well as a few other products that we frequently use.
+
+[37:02] Could you help me sort this out? Thanks, Chris. Alright, I'm gonna go out on a limb here and probably get myself in trouble. But I would say, since you don't have a sensitivity to one, you don't have a sensitivity to the other. Boom!
+
+[37:15] Boom! Alright, here's the thing. Like there's all sorts of products out there that have look, MSG, okay. Let's just get this straight. I'm gonna get some angry callers in, and you know, eventually, or someone's gonna write it, or someone's gonna say that Dave, he's a jerk.
+
+[37:30] Listen, listen, here's the thing. Glutamic acid is a an amino acid. You can't get around it, right? Okay. Now, the the sodium salt of that is monosodium glutamate, right?
+
+[37:47] Okay. Uh it's also a neurotransmitter. You need it. Without glutamic acid, you die. You don't you don't live without it.
+
+[37:56] You need it, right? Uh you need to have it in your body, that is. But here's the other funny thing, right? Um you make a crap load of it. You know what I mean?
+
+[38:05] Like it you make more of it and then convert it in your head and extreme excrete it, then you're then you're gonna eat. Right? Furthermore, if you can take uh basically we sense MSG is uh free amino acids, right? And a couple other things break down, or will give you that sense of umami savoriness that we taste. We have a taste receptor for, right?
+
+[38:26] Plenty of things have free amino acids in them, like tomatoes, like mushrooms, like parmesan cheese, like uh fish, right? Which is why sushi tastes good, because they have a lot of free amino acids in them. Uh, like uh kelp, dashi, all these things, even if you add no MSG, external MSG to them, right, they contain free amino acids. So hydrolyzed vegetable protein is where they break down a natural protein into amino acids, some of which are glutamic acid, right, and therefore have the same effect as MSG. So, yes, they are the same.
+
+[39:05] However, they are equally non-reactive, right? If you do an extensive research of the uh history of studies on MSG sensitivity, what you will find is that um that all of the studies that show that there's a problem are fundamentally flawed. Nastasha, by the way, so don't get insulted. Nastasha thinks that she's sensitive to MSG. I black out.
+
+[39:28] She blacks out. What the hell does that even mean? I black out. When did you black out? Twice, like eight years ago.
+
+[39:34] When you had what? Chinese food. Oh, so it's Chinese food. So it's only MSG and Chinese food that causes this uh reaction, not all the other things that contain glutamic acid. Right.
+
+[39:43] Yeah, that's crazy. Yeah, that's nuts. You see what I'm saying? Listen, people, listen to what just happened. Nastasha eats things all the time that have MSG in them.
+
+[39:52] She ate Chinese food, assumed it was MSG, and blacked out because of all the liquor she was drinking. No, I know, I know. Oh my god! I swear I wasn't drinking anything. My heart started beating slow, and I went into a spiral, and I went into white light.
+
+[40:06] White light? What is this? This is not a known. Here's a study that works, right? Take a gelatin capsule, right, pack it with MSG, randomize it with a bunch of other uh gelatin capsules that contain sugar, right?
+
+[40:21] With an equal amount of sodium mixed in so that the sodium levels are the same, randomly distributed into people and see whether anyone has a reaction. You know what? They don't. All the studies that appear to to uh show reactions, use things like a strongly, I'm making quote marks with my fingers, strongly flavored citrus beverage to try and cover up the flavor of MSG, which is detectable, right? They also uh use incredibly high levels of MSG, which uh cause you to be able to taste it better.
+
+[40:51] The studies that show there are problems, physical problems with MSG, are where things like neonatal rats are dosed with the equivalent of you eating like like uh a half a kilo of straight MSG, which is nothing close to what you're gonna use. Okay, like there are no studies. They tried to gork out monkey brains like neonatal like you know, newborn monkeys. They tried to zap their brains with MSG and were unable to. It's pathetic.
+
+[41:15] I that I don't applaud those studies, but I'm just saying this is a study that was run. Um, like this is a classic thing. Nastasha has Chinese food. Nastasha has heard about this thing, which was basically posited as a joke in the literature a long time ago, this thing called Chinese restaurant syndrome, and then snowballed into this nightmare. There's a lot of different interesting theories about why people think this is an actual phenomenon.
+
+[41:39] One being that you have something unfamiliar or something you don't like and that you have a reaction to it, and then your brain thinks you hone in on it. There's another theory that perhaps it's uh hypernutrient, a lot of sodium, right? Because you these diets are also high in um in salt. For instance, uh when I eat large quantities of cheese and have red wine and don't drink water and eat a lot of bread and then eat oil based stuff, which I do on a regular basis because I like having cheese for dinner, I get a horrible headache. Am I allergic to cheese?
+
+[42:09] No, I'm freaking dehydrated. Maybe I was dehydrated. Yeah, maybe you were dehydrated. I've had two friends in college black out from Chinese food and blame it on MSG. Really?
+
+[42:18] Yeah, and what were they smoking along with the. Oh my god! This is my point. It's like, why is it always Chinese food? It's in everything.
+
+[42:25] You never like here's what doesn't happen. I I I had a slim gym and I passed out. Slim gym is like 100% MSG. You know what I mean? It's like, get get look, people need to get their stories straight.
+
+[42:37] Here's here's a little something. If you didn't learn this in logic school, logic school, which I did because I was a philosophy major, post hoc ergo propter hoc. Common fallacy, right? After this, therefore because of this. Just because you had a reaction to Chinese food does not mean that MSG was the causality of it.
+
+[42:55] Did you go back and ask those guys how much MSG they used? Do you even know they used MSG? No. Okay. That's absurd as well.
+
+[43:03] It's like you had a re you had a reaction. Everyone needs to break this post hoc ergo propter hoc thing, right? It's not just because something happened after something doesn't mean you've established a causal relationship. The actual studies that have been done show that there is no problem. But theoretically, if you were allergic to MSG, meaning if you had no neurotransmitters and you were already therefore dead, so you couldn't have any MSG in your system, then yes, you also could not have hydrolyzed vegetable protein.
+
+[43:32] Is that is that a reasonable answer? Yeah. Okay. Had a question in from Pete on a similar thing. What's the deal with nitrates and nitrites?
+
+[43:42] Uh there are two what's the deals, right? One possible what's the deal is what's the deal, i.e., is there a problem with them? I think of the difference. Yeah? Here's what's hilarious about I'm gonna do it anyway.
+
+[43:57] So uh turns out that uh like a lot of natural curing salts have nitrates and nitrites in them, which is why they're so good for curing things. Turns out if you don't add them to quick-cured products like bacon, and then you backpack them and put them in the store, you have a good chance that you're gonna give someone botulism because they prevent botulism growth, right? So uh to me they're a they're a good thing. Well, here's what's most hilarious to me. Whole Foods, sponsor of this show, not this mean this radio station, and also by the way, a place I shop on a regular basis, pisses me off for this reason.
+
+[44:31] They will sell something called uncured bacon, where what they do is they buy things like celery, which naturally accumulate nitrites in them, uh, and nitrates and nitrites in them, and then reduce it down to like, you know, so that like eight, like eight acres of celery fit into like you know, like a plastic cup, then take the flavor out of it and use that to cure instead, and say they haven't added any nitrates, they've just added natural celery. To me, this is like the worst form of bull crappery that you can pull on someone because you're giving them the same exact product with the same exact functionality with a with a fake pseudo-healthy label on it, and nothing pisses me off more than that sort of mendacious crap that people pull on the back of labels. Okay. Now, back to the difference between nitrate and nitrite. When you use nitrates, which is what they used to use, nowadays nitrates are only used on long-cured products like hams.
+
+[45:27] When uh when you apply nitrates to meat, nitrates are broken down to nitrites, right? Which are then broken down further and then eventually cause the cured color and and and exert their uh antimicrobial properties. Okay. If you are going to do a short-term product, like a bacon, you're gonna, or you're pumping or you're using a brine, you're gonna want to use nitrite with an eye, right? Almost all things that you make, you should use nitrite nowadays, right?
+
+[45:56] If you're doing a long-cured ham, then you're gonna want to use nitrite. But most of the time you want to use nitrite. And you and the easiest way to do it is to buy a product called Morton's Tender Quick Salt, which has it mixed in, so you don't need to worry about it. You don't need to worry about getting your salt and your uh and having you know pink salt lying around in case your kids, because you really shouldn't eat, you shouldn't eat it by the bushel. But it's it's something that's been used in uh in cooking since time immemorial, even before it was uh isolated on its own and used because there was those impurities in natural salts.
+
+[46:28] Okay, so let's end on a non-diatribe note, shall we? Yeah. Nastash is like, yeah. Nastash doesn't like to get caught. See, I wish like you should never tell me stuff like that MSG stuff.
+
+[46:38] If you know I'm gonna go off on it. I mean, you I can't help it. It's like in my blood. It's like I s it's like I'm a shark and I smell blood. You know what I mean?
+
+[46:45] It's like it's like I can't help it. Yeah, it's in my nature. Yeah, don't blame me out there. Don't I don't want anyone writing in and saying I'm mean or anything like this because you because she saves what the vicious stuff she does to me for off-air. Like I'm the same all the time.
+
+[46:57] No, you're not. Should I get you guys separate tables for the floor? From now on, we need a glass wall in between us on the thing. Anyway, Brian writes in with a friendly question. Hello, hello, Nastasha.
+
+[47:08] These are all friendly questions, by the way. Hello, Nastasha and Dave. Can you tell me how I can make my own chewing gum? And is there any way to make bubblegum? Hey, good question.
+
+[47:15] I don't know whether he read the post before he sent that in. I don't think so. I got it before the post. Well, chewing gum, the original chewing gum comes from the sap of the uh, well, the the latex from the sapodilla tree, and sapadilla is one of the fruits that we had at the fruit and spice park. I wrote about it in the in the most recent blog blog post.
+
+[47:33] You can go on and look at it. And you can still buy it. And that that latex is when it's processed, it's called Chicle. Right? And uh, and uh it's very easy to to use.
+
+[47:44] Um Chiclay, by the way, I'll give you the short story because uh one of the guys at the Fruit and Spice Park gave us a story. It's a crazy story. I don't know if I believe it, but it's repeated a couple times. And if you really care care about chicle and gum bases, you can read Jennifer Matthews' book, The Chewing Gum Chicle, The Chewing Gum of America from Ancient Maya to William Wrigley. And the story is this uh Santa Anna, the Mexican general who handed us our behinds at uh at the Alamo and wiped out the Alamo and David Bowie and all those guys.
+
+[48:11] David Bowie. That David Bowie, sorry. Bo what's his name? Bowie the Bowie knife guy. I don't know.
+
+[48:16] Now, David Bowie's almost old enough to have gotten wiped out. Anyway, so wipes out David Bowie. Uh what's his name? Bowie, the Bowie Knife Guy. Anyway, and like a buck Davy Crockett.
+
+[48:25] Didn't he get wiped out there? I don't know. A bunch of people got wiped out at the Alamo. If you really want to hear the story, go read, go listen to uh Johnny uh Horton's uh Remember the Alamo song. And um I'm gonna get a lot of people mad that I don't know the Alamo story.
+
+[48:39] Anyway, so like he later goes back to Mexico, loses the war, uh, gets his behind handed to him. Uh, you know, we go murder a bunch of uh of like you know, basically teenagers at a place called Triple Topek Heights, win the war. We get a whole bunch of uh territory ceded from Mexico. Santa Anna is trying to make some money now because he's no longer the president, XYZ. Uh that was late, this is later.
+
+[49:00] Ends up in stat exiled in Staten Island with a pile of chicle. They're trying to turn Chiclay, which is a stuff, this latex, into vulcanized rubber, and they can't do it. So he sells it to a guy named uh Thomas Adams, who's like, hey, listen, kids like to chew on things. And so instead of trying to make vulcanized rubber out of it, he makes chiclets, which are the first kind of uh chiclay-based common chewing gum available in the United States. Believe it or not, there it is, right?
+
+[49:24] And so chiclay was the main gum that people use for gum base for years and years, and they got hit with a kind of like triple whammy. One, uh, they started running out of chic lay. During World War II, Wrigley was sending chiclay to uh you know, gum to uh all the soldiers to try and get him hooked on it while they were abroad, right? Which was successful. So they were really running out.
+
+[49:44] Uh it was harder to get because it was wartime, and they started synthesizing uh synthetic ones. Most chewing gum now is synthetic uh made, it's no longer a natural thing from the tree. Uh so that was a you know a big whammy, and then after the war, uh a bunch of uh you know, people in like you know, Guatemala and Mexico were like, hey, how's come we're so oppressed? What the hell's going on here? And they started to have some uh reforms uh down there which further put a dent in uh us basically you know holding the holding the chicleros and the other peasants there down under our thumbs, and so they basically moved away from using chick-lay entirely.
+
+[50:21] Uh you might remember that era from when United Fruit convinced the CIA to overthrow a bunch of governments down there so that we could have cheap bananas. Uh one of the one of the least cool sections of our history. Anyway, um, so you can get uh chicle still, you can buy it. I think Terra Spice sells gum base, but I think it's chicle, that's what they told me. I put that in our blog.
+
+[50:42] But I know you can buy guaranteed chicle base from uh glee gum. The people who make glee gum, they'll sell you a pound. Fit a pound is fifteen dollars. Uh and you you buy it, uh you can't make really bubble gum with it. Bubble gum is always a synthetic base, I think, because it's it has a different composition.
+
+[50:57] The cheek late one is not gonna blow bubbles that well. So what you do is uh and everyone has the same recipe, so I'll just give it to you. Like I searched like every website. This is the one we used, and everyone uses the same thing. One third cup gum base, half cup powdered sugar, two tablespoons corn syrup, the regular stuff, doesn't have not high fructose, it's just do it, it's there as a plasticizer, right?
+
+[51:18] One teaspoon glycerin, you can get that, I think at uh pharmacies. We have it for pastry supply stuff. Then acid of your choice. Everyone uses citric acid because they're lazy. We use many kinds of acid, malic, tartaric, but you want a powdered acid.
+
+[51:31] Uh, flavoring of your choice, uh, and then and then some extra powdered sugar. And what you do is you microwave it, uh, you microwave the gum base, a little bit of the sugar, uh the corn syrup and the glycerin and the acid if you want, and you stir it. It's sticky as all heck, it forms a little little, you can put it in a core container and microwave it. You stir it up, and then you start stirring in powdered sugar until it forms a ball, and then you can just use excess powdered sugar like it's flour, like you're kneading it. And then you just knead in flavor until you get a flavor you like, right?
+
+[52:01] And it takes a lot more than you think. And you can knead in extra acid, and you can even sprinkle with extra acid at the end. When you're uh so what flavors have we done? Oil-based flavors tend to work best and they tend to last longest. Uh, we've used uh all kinds of weird oils from Mandy Aftel.
+
+[52:15] We've used natural things like port wine, uh that we did port wine reduction gum that was good, but those water-based flavors tend to fade very, very quickly. Uh so you make sure to make sure you add extra acid. Um, you can add a pinch of salt. When you're done, you can uh dust it with powdered sugar, roll it out with a rolling pin like it's uh like it's a dough. Um you can roll it between acetate sheets and then roll it out and keep it flat.
+
+[52:36] You can roll it into balls and cut it. You can nuke the sheets slightly and then form them into raviolis and they'll stick to each other after they've been nuked, and you could dust it with powdered sugar again. Uh so you could put like you can make little gum raviolis, they were good, right? We made those, but you have to use like uh like an oil, like a solid on the inside or something that's like frozen oil-based, not water-based. Okay, listen.
+
+[52:57] You were gonna be tempted, Brian, to use your pasta machine to roll out the gum. Nastacia's shaking her head, no. Awful. Horrible, right? Yeah.
+
+[53:06] Yeah. And if you must, if you are compelled to try to use a pasta machine to roll out your gum, use somebody else's. We did. Oh delicious. Oh, that thing was never the same, right?
+
+[53:21] Oh my god. Anyway, so uh it's fun, it's easy, it's fifteen dollars a pound. Cooking issues. There is a Toronto, California? We stand corrected.
+
+[54:00] Jamming good with weather and gilly and the spiders from moss. They've played in left hand, but made it too far. It came the special math. This is behind the scenes food news with Katie Kiefer. This is behind the scenes boo-to-s with Katie Keefer.
+
+[54:34] There's a lot of posturing and talking around raw milk these days and how great it is. But if you really want to get a full-on investigation into the pros and cons, the risks and benefits of raw milk consumption, here's a nifty website.com. It has a laundry list of FAQs, along with information from studies and reports from American and European science communities. If you flirt with raw milk consumption, this is definitely worth taking a look at.com to learn more and to reserve your goat this coming October. Yeah.
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+[0:05] You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com, bringing you the freshest radio in Brooklyn since 2009. Here directly from chefs to farmers, artists to architects, authors to brewers, and everyone in between. Check out all of our shows on our website or by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. Hi, I'm Steve Jenkins. I work for Fairway Markets in the New York area.
+
+[0:30] And we're awfully proud to support Heritage Radio. And we care so much about everything that goes on out here at Roberta's and their studio because they talk to people who are serious about food. And that's what we are at Fairway, is we're serious about food. We we just care very deeply about you as a as a customer and how you cook and what you cook with and how you entertain. And that's why we love to support Heritage Radio because it it's pretty much the same thing.
+
+[1:02] It's wanting to find happiness through serious food and people who are serious about it and care about learning everything there is to learn about it. And that's that's we're kindred spirits. If it's something worth having in your kitchen, you're gonna find it at Fairway. And if there's somebody worth talking to about food, you're gonna find them on Heritage Radio, and we will be supporting you guys for a long, long time. At Fairway, I'm your personal grocer, Steve Jenkins, Fairway Market.
+
+[1:56] Call in all of your questions today too. That's 718-497-2128 because today is a very special day. We have as our call-in guest, Nathan Mirvold, the brain behind the uh modernist cuisine megabook extravaganza that came out uh I forget whether it's the beginning of this year or the end of the end of last year. Nathan, you there? I'm here.
+
+[2:20] Oh, great. Very good to have you on. So listen, in case there's like a person out there who's been uh living under a rock or something, uh this book basically Nathan was uh were you the head of like uh GUI design at uh at Microsoft? What was your dealy? I was Chief Technology Officer.
+
+[2:36] Chief Technology Officer. So, you know, like many of the good things from Microsoft came out of Nathan's brain, fair to say, or your team anyway, right? Yep. Okay. Uh the idea.
+
+[2:46] So then uh decided that uh didn't necessarily want to be uh in Microsoft anymore, although apparently you're still buddies with that whole crew, right? Starting Well, uh Bill Gates is a great friend of mine, and I I still work with him on a variety of things. Right, like I know I've been out of the uh Microsoft now for 11 years, so it's pretty much their company now, not mine. Yeah, although you know, let's be honest, all their good stuff came out before 11 years ago. Boom!
+
+[3:11] Boom! Just kidding. Anyway, so uh so uh a number of years ago, or many years ago as far as I know, uh Nathan started traveling um the world, going to the finest restaurants in the world. Uh was also an avid cook, uh, and then amassed what uh by all accounts, although I've never actually been to the one at your house, is possibly the greatest kitchen uh in the world. Uh then after a while, realized there was no real um kind of large-scale encyclopedic book about uh how to cook using all kinds of new techniques and technologies, and so decided uh to write a book on the subject, enlisted some of the greatest minds uh in this field uh to help, and then three or four years later came out with uh the book the books that we all know as the modernist cuisine uh book series.
+
+[3:57] This uh accurate or no. Yeah, that's you got it, Dave. Yeah. All right, uh wait, Jack. Do we have a call?
+
+[4:03] All right, we already have a call, Nathan, so I'm gonna I'm gonna go right to it. Caller you're on the air. Hi, Dave. How are you? Doing well.
+
+[4:11] Uh my name's Alvin. Actually, I uh I met Nathan uh at the beginning of the month uh uh at dinner at the lab. How are you, Nathan? Great. How you doing?
+
+[4:20] Good, good. I had a question for you guys. Um I'm getting ready to buy a liquid nitrogen dwarf, and I uh I read the I read the primer on cooking issues. Um I live in an apartment, so I don't know that the uh 160 Super Ninja Doire is gonna work for me. A lot of chefs have been telling me to get a 10-liter Jar, but I feel like maybe 2030 is uh is a better size.
+
+[4:42] You guys have any input on that? What city do you live in? And what city do you live in and what floor do you live on? Uh third floor. What city?
+
+[4:50] Houston. Uh I I'll gonna defer to Nathan on this. I'd go small, I wouldn't be comfortable having large amounts of uh nitrogen going up and down stairs. Uh what do you think, Nathan? You know, as long as you don't spill it, it's okay.
+
+[5:04] You have to make sure you have it in a very well ventilated room because if it fell over, uh you want to make sure that the nitrogen doesn't take too much oxygen displace too much oxygen from the room. Um, and by the way, it's pronounced doer. Um James Dewar was the guy who invented it. Uh the same Scottish name as doer whiskey, although perhaps not the same family. Um interesting.
+
+[5:29] So uh you know, the either the the 10 or the 20 liter would be fine. The larger the doer is, the longer the nitrogen is going to keep. Um because the heat loss is about the same, but the volume is different. So if you have a uh 20-liter uh doer, you're gonna wind up uh having the the nitrogen last a lot longer than a 10-liter. And the and the reason I ask you is carrying it up and down the stairs is gonna be a pain.
+
+[5:57] Yeah, and and the reason I asked you what city you're in is if you're in New York, it's a pain to go get because you have to go to one of the welding shops in the city. It's not advisable to keep it in the passenger area of a car. If you live out in Houston and you have a car, or better yet, even a truck that you can drive out to the place and pick up refills, it's a lot less of a hassle. Wouldn't you agree, Nathan? Yes, I would.
+
+[6:19] Uh if you drive with liquid nitrogen in the the car, which I I certainly have been known to do, just have all the windows rolled down. Okay. Yeah, I mean the the reason for this is lit the liquid nitrogen uh when it boils it uh into just nitrogen gas, it creates a lot of it. It goes up by a factor of 500, something like that. So uh you can easily displace all of the volume of the air in your car, and then you pass out.
+
+[6:51] And you could even die. And people have died from spilling a liquid nitrogen dewer in a small enclosed space. And a car is by definition a small enclosed space, and an accident could do it. Uh even if I had the liquid nitrogen in the trunk, I still can't have the windows rolled down. Okay.
+
+[7:07] Um although pickup truck is is uh obviously an even better way to go. Yeah, that's uh ideal, but just bungee it down properly so it doesn't rattle about. Got it. Yep, Dave. Um I I noticed when I was looking online at the dwarfs, like there's some some 10 liter Dwarfs that say that they're like 30 pounds empty, and then there was like a 30 liter one that said it was 30 pounds full.
+
+[7:29] Is there I imagine the heavier one would would be better insulated? Is that correct? I can't imagine a 30-liter doer that's 30 pounds full. I think that's probably an error. Okay.
+
+[7:38] Yeah. Um in general, larger, as Nathan said, the lar the larger they are, the better they are for storage. I'd be wary of buying used uh used doers um because uh a lot of times their insulation can be can be bad. Um, you know, but if you're willing to take the risk and they're good, then they're good. You know, it's just a matter of can you afford to take the risk on a on a used doer, you're rolling the dice.
+
+[7:58] Uh a doer is basically a vacuum bottle, it's a like a thermos bottle. And uh they can, if they're if you drop them, for example, you can crack the inside just enough for there to be a vacuum leak, and so uh you wind up having no uh uh no insulation value. Yeah, and you end up finding out overnight when you have no nitrogen when you need it the next day at a demo. Uh sounds like that's happened to you, Dave. Oh, yeah.
+
+[8:25] Well, yeah, I mean, that's uh another nightmare about renting small format doers from uh welding shops. They give you the crappiest one they have, and it's usually been beaten about. If you're gonna do it on a regular basis, I recommend buying a uh a new one and being nice to it. Uh but I here we have Nathan, I hear we have another caller on the air. Thank you so much for your question, by the way.
+
+[8:43] Caller, you're on the air. Hi, Dave, hi Nascent. This is Michael Natkin from Seattle. Hey. Hi.
+
+[8:50] So I was uh reading the Fat Duck cookbook lately, and asked the Blumenthal. He talks about using star anise with onions to increase meaty flavors. And he mentions that it is a combination of anasaldehyde and anicidine from the anus, which combines with sulfur and produces some sort of a sulfur heterocyclic. I've tried it, it definitely works. It's beautiful.
+
+[9:11] But I'm sort of curious about the mechanism and whether there are other ways to apply it. So I have no knowledge of this. Nathan? Well I'm gonna probably have to pass too. You know, the flavor chemistry is extremely complicated.
+
+[9:27] And uh whereas you can find things like what you're describing there where some of the sulfurous compounds from from onions will combine with another flavor to make something meaty, i it's hard to generalize. If you took a different uh spice than star anise, it probably will not work because it won't have the uh same uh flavor compounds. Right. And I know Heston's working with or worked with the guys at Ferminich and uh a number of other places, and they've you know have some wacky stuff. A lot of the chemical ba a lot of the chemical arguments for what's going on in cooking in terms of the flavor chemistry, I find them extremely interesting to read, but not necessarily uh as valuable when when you're cooking.
+
+[10:08] Uh McGee is working on a on a large format book on this on this kind of subject right now. Uh I mean it's extremely interesting. That particular one, I I even though I have the cookbook ahead, I I guess it's obvious I haven't read all the way through it. But I'm gonna I'll investigate that one further and maybe get on the horn with McGee about it because I think he's investigated that. Uh any more thoughts on that one, Nathan?
+
+[10:26] Because I hear we have another caller on the air. Well, we've got uh you know, as you say, flavor chemistry is extremely complicated, and you can get uh some very specific things that will occur with a very specific flavor uh that you just don't get uh otherwise. Um and uh as an example, uh uh many wines have a vanilla flavor in them that comes from oak because in fact uh oak has got compounds very similar to vanilla and vanilla. Uh now that's idiosyncratic to oak. It doesn't mean all wood does, or it doesn't mean that you can generalize that to other flavors, unfortunately.
+
+[11:02] Yeah, I made actually a vanilla-like ice cream out of the uh oak from Scotch after roto vaping. It's pretty good. How cool? It's it's good. It tastes really you should I mean I know you have like uh it's easy for you to do uh, you know, Nathan.
+
+[11:14] Obviously, what I do uh combine the oak with the cream cold so that I can neutralize some of the tannins, but uh and then either heat or don't do it San Mason style with uncooked eggs if you're not worried about the pasteurization. But listen, I promise to look into this Anis onion thing. I'm having Nastasha write down the question now and I promise to look into it more, okay? Cool. You know, we make a thing, Dave, where we uh roto vap whiskey uh to take the alcohol out, which sounds like about the stupidest thing you could possibly do.
+
+[11:41] Take perfectly good Scotch whiskey and remove the alcohol. But my God, the flavors that are present that are masked by the alcohol because the alcohol is so raw on your tongue and palate that you don't taste the subtlety, it's just amazing. Yeah, I mean I like both uh you know, well, Nathan and I are both big roto vap fans. I like I like both sides of the of this still on this one, but n next time you do it, just make some uh take it down a little further, you know what I mean, so you don't have as much mass, and I I don't uh actually add any uh milk to it. I just used uh straight cream because you're adding so much liquid in the form of oak, but it's a to d to damn good ice cream.
+
+[12:15] Yeah, it sounds great. All right, uh Jack, is it true we have another caller? Caller, you are on the air. Okay. You're hello, Dave.
+
+[12:25] Hello. This is Joe. I'm calling from South Carolina. Howdy. In the uh introduction to Modernist Cuisine, uh, I guess Nathan says that he uh really can't address bread for fear that the book will become too large.
+
+[12:37] I'm curious where bread fits in modernist cuisine from the broader perspective. I'm also curious as to is there going to be a sequel to modernist cuisine, or did you close it down in the kitchen and send everybody home? But Nathan, as long as it's as long as you're gonna answer this, Nathan, I have a very similar question online, so I'll just add those to it, and you can take care of all these at once. This is from Ian Benz, uh, and he's basically saying, would you have done anything differently if you were gonna start over? And uh what's your next project?
+
+[13:05] Any chance for a pastry book? And someone asked the same thing about cocktails, so you might as well hit all of those, hit all of those at once. Okay. So um it when people ask me what's next, I always say what we're what we're currently doing is still going on with this book. I mean, I'm right in the middle of an interview or uh uh radio show here.
+
+[13:22] Um we did a lunch for people uh yesterday. We did a dinner last week. So uh the team is all still working um uh uh uh very hard, primarily promoting the existing book. Um and we're doing a l some experimentation that we could use in the future for a future book, but mostly we're working on the existing book. I think that's gonna be true through the first of the year.
+
+[13:45] So in January, we need to make a decision as to what we do next. Um we didn't cover pastry baking and dessert. It's a world unto itself. We certainly are thinking about doing that as the next book. Um we might instead, however, do a next smaller book before we do that one, because pastry baking dessert would be another two or three year slog for sure.
+
+[14:07] In terms of the status of uh and cocktails are another thing that people have suggested uh i as something to do plus uh th there's a million different threads we could pick up and so we're gonna look at all of them uh and right now we really have not made a decision uh in terms of the status of bread in modernist cuisine um I I'd say pretty much not uh in the sense that modernist restaurants uh only rarely have a bread service or anything like bread or have done something really modernist with bread. I can only think of a couple of examples. Uh Faron Adria has a dish he calls the air baguette which looks like a perfectly little to sell um uh miniature baguette but in fact is completely hollow inside uh and so that's kind of a cool uh dish um Jose Andres uh serves that at Bazaar where they uh uh make what they call a Philly cheesesteak out of it by putting a very very thin slice of beef on top and they inject um a cheese foam inside of it uh it's really good. But other than that dish it's hard for me to think of any other things where a modernist chef has tried to reinvent bread. D Dave, can you think of any?
+
+[15:28] Uh not really. I mean it's uh bread is used as a component by many many chefs but they haven't actually reinvented the the bread itself. It's just uh you know you'll get you know different gastronomic article you should have argued that modernism came at different times so it came earlier to paintings than architecture. Is modernism just not reached bread yet well, I think that's that's certainly a possibility. Um you know, the pastry and baking uh have their own sets of traditions, their own things that they follow.
+
+[16:05] Um aspects of pastry and baking already follow the same approach that modernist uh chefs take. So modern chefs are always weighing things out exactly, and we always have uh a pantry full of little white powders, and so do pastry chefs. You know, you don't add baking soda by taste or by guess and by gosh, you you have to weigh it out if you want a consistent result. Uh so uh but I don't fe I I I've not seen anything that I really could call modernist uh baking or bread. Modernist pastry, yes, pastry chefs uh have been at the forefront of modernist uh cuisine.
+
+[16:47] Uh at many uh modernist restaurants, the pastry chef is actually out in front of uh uh of the savory guys. Uh at uh many other restaurants that are are still traditional or nouvelle in character, it's the pastry chef that's dragging the rest of the kitchen into the 20th century or 21st century. Sort of like Johnny Azzini at Jean Georges or any one of those Michael Assembly. Or Michael Ascanis of um uh den. Are two great examples.
+
+[17:16] Yeah. Uh well, let me further on these questions, because we have uh this is again from Ian Benz writing in on similar questions. Knowing what you know now about the whole process of realizing the book, would you have done anything differently if you were to start it over? Well, you know, we obviously we learned lots of things while doing the book. And so some of those things you'd like to have learned a little bit sooner uh, of course.
+
+[17:42] But really, there wasn't uh I I was pretty happy with the whole process. There's very little I would do differently. Um I originally thought I was gonna write a big book, and I thought big meant 600 pages, and then 800, and then a thousand. And you know, if we'd owned up up front and knew it was gonna be 2400 from the start, maybe I wouldn't have started the thing. It would have seemed too daunting.
+
+[18:05] Right. Um but I I don't really have a lot of regrets on it, no. Well, well, as as he also said, he hopes you're proud of the accomplishment because he finds it really incredible, as as do I think all of us. Um but he he makes a point here, uh, Ian, when he's asking the questions, he says he's sure you could not be completely satisfied, especially in this age where every week a new technique or discovery seems to come to light that changes one idea of what can be done. But I think it's actually kind of the opposite, because I mean the the the most challenging thing it had to have been for this book is because new things are happening, is to make a statement that's gonna survive the test of time and yet still deal with newness.
+
+[18:41] And I think that's kind of the whole that's the whole thing behind the book. That's the whole kind of interesting thing about it, right? Yes. And uh, you know, it was a challenge as we were finishing the book up to send to the printer, you know, every day I'd think of one other thing we hadn't included, and I'd I'd call Max up and say, Oh my god, we don't have a recipe for skier. Yeah.
+
+[19:05] We have a section in the book that covers various fresh cheeses and fermented uh milk products. So we had yogurt, we didn't have skier by God, and skier is sort of halfway between farmers' cheese and yogurt. It's got rennet in it like farmers' cheese is, but also is fermented like yogurt. Now, could we have shipped the book without Skear? Yes.
+
+[19:23] But we did sneak it in in the 11th hour. Uh and of course, since the we finally shipped the book off, more things like that have piled up. Right. I mean, well, the lucky thing is food is such a huge subject, you know, that you couldn't ever cover all of it. Right.
+
+[19:39] And uh you know, the the other day I was uh someplace and I s uh I had some pasole and I hit myself in the foreign my God, we never covered hominy. At all? And and the whole process of using lime to treat corn, which is intrinsic to not only hominy, but to making uh uh the masaharina for making tortillas, like god damn it, how did I forget hominy? But you know, I think hopefully the world will forgive me for forgetting hominy. Well, I say there's plenty there's plenty of other stuff, and you know, honestly, the the thing is for the for the rest of us that you know, not writing you know books like this, but do write in this field, it's kind of lucky that it's such a huge subject that you know you guys can't tackle all of it, or what would we do for a living?
+
+[20:23] Well, you you know, Dave, while we were working on the book, we w we we followed your blog very carefully to make sure that we we had covered all the things you had put out there. Not not always in as much detail because we decided not to cover cocktails, for example, which is a big part of your blog and and your cuisine. But uh we tried to stay on top of new developments, but we knew for a fact new stuff would happen the minute we were done. And that's okay, because what we ha wanted to do was create enough of a foundation and a base that uh we communicate it to everyone, and if you waited for it to be complete, you'd never do it at all. Right, exactly.
+
+[21:00] Uh we have one more caller and then we're gonna take a break. Caller, you're on the air. Hey, this is Andrew from Minneapolis. Howdy. And I have a question for Nathan.
+
+[21:11] Um I'm just wondering what's one of the biggest things you and your team learned in making the book about food and cooking that really made you stand back and say, wow, like this is a crazy thing that's happening. Or maybe one of the things that you felt like you learned about food and that your research team learned, that you felt like you were the first ones learning this and you were the first ones kind of making this almost in a pioneering aspect of what you were uh fiddling with. Okay. Well, uh I'll quickly touch on a couple of those. I mean uh uh one which is very controversial with traditional chefs is that uh com fee is a fraud.
+
+[21:48] Um by confie I mean the traditional cooking technique where you cook meat in uh fat or oil at low temperature for a long period of time. Uh duck confie is of course the classic example. And while working on the meat chapter, I was trying to figure out how cooking the meat in oil or fat could possibly change the meat. And I decided it couldn't possibly. The molecules are too large for them to penetrate the meat.
+
+[22:15] But every traditional chef, every uh particularly French chef, believes that there's something unique that happens. So we did a bunch of blind taste tests where we took uh both both uh duck leg confid, we also uh did uh pork shoulder. And we tried it b steamed, sous-vide, um and uh and traditional methods, and in a blind taste test we couldn't tell the difference. Oh wow. And when I tell some traditional French chefs this, they get almost angry.
+
+[22:46] So one guy says, I did not agree. And I said, This isn't about agreeing. Tell me you've tried the blind taste test and you can taste the difference and I'll believe you. But if you haven't tried, um, and and that's sort of an interesting question of attitude there. If in fact you try the experiment and you can't tell the difference in a blind test, that tells you something very profound.
+
+[23:08] But a lot of folks think that there's an ideology of food that you should believe the stuff without testing it like that. So that's one example. We also learned uh what causes the stall in barbecue. This is when you cook a uh brisket or a big piece of meat uh the people have noticed for many years that the temperature will rise for a while then it will flatten out and stall and not increase for many hours before it increases again. Uh and there's tons of theories on the internet about why that occurs and we finally found out why and the tur the turns out the reason is that the meat is drying out and the temperature is held down by the fact that the evaporation takes a tremendous amount of energy.
+
+[23:52] The thing that's ironic about it is that some people think the cure for the stall is to slather more sauce onto their meat which of course only makes it wetter which only prevent keeps the stall going longer. Yeah. So there's a couple examples. Although combining those combining those two right I mean traditional confit is a good technique for producing that texture on a duck if you don't have access to vacuum bags or controlled atmosphere cooking. Yeah or a steam oven that's right what we found in those blind taste tests actually is that um what you uh what mattered was the temperature and the time so i if you cooked it at different temperatures, we could totally tell the difference.
+
+[24:34] Right. You'd have to decide which one you preferred, but there's clearly was a difference if you cooked the duck at say 60 C or 65 C or or 80 C. You could totally tell those. But we couldn't tell whether we steamed it in a combi oven or a CVAP, or we um or cooked it sous vide or or or traditional. And so you're right, Dave, that the original point of Confi was really a a sort of approach to sous vide where you could cook it at a low temperature for a long period of time and exclude air from it so that for storage.
+
+[25:08] And that's why there's a similarity. And with that, we will go to our first commercial break. Cruising and playing the radio. Riding along in my automobile. So I told her softly and sincere.
+
+[25:45] And she leaned and whispered in my ear. Cuddling more and driving slow. With no particular place to go. So we parked way out on the Kokomo. The night was young and the moon was cold.
+
+[26:30] So we both decided to take a stroll. Can you imagine the way I felt? I couldn't unfasten a safety bell. Run along in my caliboos. Still trying to get her belt to loose.
+
+[26:49] All the way home I held a grudge. For the safety belt that wouldn't burst. Cruising and playing the radio. With no particular place to go. Alright, welcome back to Cooking Issues.
+
+[27:11] First time we've had Chuck Berry. Uh calling your questions too for Nathan Mirvold. 27184972128. That's 718 497 2128. Next caller gets a modernist cuisine signed apron, signed by uh Nathan uh Chris and Max.
+
+[27:27] We got who's who's on that apron? Do you know Nathan? I think it's all three of us. Alright, nice. Nice.
+
+[27:33] Um, so let me follow up again. Uh you mentioned a little bit about cocktails, but uh Kevin Lou wrote in and said, he has a question for you. Cocktail science is a branch of modernist cuisine that you didn't touch upon. We've talked about that. Do you consider mixology cooking?
+
+[27:46] And how far do you think chefs and bartenders should be able to take their creations? And uh do you have any insights about cocktail science that you can share with us? So uh I'm not an expert on modernist cocktails. I certainly have had them, and many of them draw on the same kinds of science and principles, but I I wouldn't call myself an expert. Um uh Dave, you're much more into this than I am.
+
+[28:11] Um, yes, I do consider it cooking uh in in a variety of senses, but it's not always practiced that way. You know, that most cocktails are uh mixed by a bartender, most traditional cocktails, and uh they j generally don't have the manpower to do anything very elaborate. Uh they're also the server. Uh and so uh and you typically have a fairly small number of bartenders with a fairly large number of people. You you couldn't actually serve dinner if you had the same number of chefs as bartenders to customers.
+
+[28:45] The ratio wouldn't work. Right. And that's because most drinks, of course, simple. You splash some scotch and water into a glass. That isn't cooking.
+
+[28:53] But real modernist mixology that makes the complicated drinks, I I definitely think uh qualifies. Right. And in fact, I mean that's one of the reasons I became interested in it was because uh I thought there was uh a niche that wasn't being adequately explored, you know, and that's kind of one of the reasons I got into plus I like cocktails, you know, so it's kind of a win-win situation. Uh on a similar note, I'll just hit it real quick uh while waiting for the next caller to come in. Uh Colin, longtime listener, writer in, uh, says that cocktail geeks are loving the rainbow's gin fizz.
+
+[29:25] Bartenders are hating their guts for repopularizing a drink involving a 12 minute shake, although they don't really take 12 minutes to shake. And by the way, bartenders also, I was at the last at the Tales of the Cocktail in July, and bartenders were ordering this drink uh by the bushel. Uh, and basically Colin wants to know is there a better way? So Rainbow's gin fizz is actually a drink that I don't much like. It's got like eggs, dairy, gin, orange flour water, and some other stuff, and you shake the heck out of it, and it gets this creamy, to my taste, underalcoholic kind of thing that apparently is becoming more popular.
+
+[29:55] I'm not a huge orange flower water person, anyway. The secret common uh is to shake the ingredients dry without ice first to start the emulsification process. That's the old school way to do it. If I were you, I would invest in some uh in a mix of Xanthan and gum arabic and keep it at your bar at all times. Uh TIC Gums makes a good one called Saladizer 301 or 310 or something like that.
+
+[30:16] And it's uh basically you can use it to make butter syrups or oil syrups, or you can use it to stabilize uh a ramos or anything else. Uh and it's just handy stuff to have around. Uh the gum arabic acts as an emulsifier and a bodying agent, and a xanthan acts as a stabilizer. So I would I would get a hold of that. Any any have any other ideas on that uh Nathan?
+
+[30:36] Uh I you made the the point I would make. I mean, the other thing is make sure that uh you've got a good uh mixer or homogenizer for uh for making the emulsion. Yeah, well, Nathan has uh a bunch of uh nifty emulsify uh you know different homogenizers. Uh you know, he has uh the rotor stator, which actually is becoming more popular now. Um uh Tony uh our buddy Tony C, Tony Calliaro from uh England's got one in his bar uh and you know we have one, uh you have one, a bunch of people have them now.
+
+[31:07] But Nathan is the only person that I know who also has a high pressure homogenizer. He can do some serious business with that, right? Yep. Oh, the fantastic. It um it uses very, very high pressure, 30,000 pounds per square inch uh to uh uh create incredibly fine emulsions.
+
+[31:28] So uh a blender can typically get you down around uh five, 10 to 15 micron droplet size. Uh and with a rotor stouter, you can probably get it down to five uh microns. With uh the high pressure, we can routinely get it down to one micron. Wow. And by the way, when Nathan says blender, he doesn't mean a crappy blender that you buy at Costco, he means a vita prep.
+
+[31:54] Yeah, a vita prep or blend tech or one of the other really uh uh high-end ones. Uh the the there really is a difference. But a rotor stator homogenizer, which is a piece of laboratory equipment, does a vastly better job even than a vitaprep. Oh, yeah, yeah. For most things.
+
+[32:08] I mean the the interesting thing about it is um once you get a below about first of all, you know, the the the particle size that you can get uh out of uh out of a blender has to do with a number of things. How uh efficiently the blades can get to the particles, how much mixing there is, etc. etc. How the blade size in relation to the tank size, all that. But at the at the end, the you're limited by the kind of the tip speed, how fast the tip is hitting uh your your products.
+
+[32:35] And in a rotor stator, there's a rotor that's rotating and a stator that's standing still. So in effect, it's the equivalent of in one you're um you're just slicing a knife through the air, in the other you put someone's head against the wall and then slice the knife through it. It's that kind of a uh of an addition of energy that you're talking about, which is the reason that it can get to such uh smaller uh sizes, right, Nathan? Would you agree with it with that description? Yes, absolutely.
+
+[32:59] That th that's the the whole what you're trying to do is create shear in the liquid. And uh a ordinary blender is trying to slice the blade faster than the fluid is moving. And the amount of shear depends basically on the relative speed of the liquid and the blade, but of course the liquid is moving and it can m push out of the way, whereas a rotor stator just forces all of the liquid in a very, very fine gap, a hundredth of an inch uh sort of a gap, where one side is stationary, the other side is at super high speed, and that creates just vastly more shear. Right. Now the other interesting thing about blending is that your tongue, okay, in terms of texture, your tongue can't really perceive um texture below about 20 microns.
+
+[33:48] Thereabout, that order of magnitude, in that range, 20 microns in size. Um, which is why uh liquid nitrogen ice cream isn't perceptively better, perceptibly better than ice cream made in a high-end commercial ice cream machine, even though its ice crystals are theoretically smaller, right? Because your tongue can't perceive it. So what's interesting is that the rotor stator g has two possibilities for use. One, you need a small particle size, like for instance, like uh did this thing with oysters, and you might choke out the oysters if you have large particles.
+
+[34:19] Two, you want a very stable emulsion, so you want the smaller, smaller things. If you're making milks, which is a big section in uh mi other milks like duck fat milk, which is a big section in modernist cuisine. Or uh, but there apparently, and I haven't done the studies myself, but Nathan I'm sure has uh there are taste perception differences that depend upon the size of the droplets below below your threshold for perceiving texture. Is that true, you'd say, or no? Uh yeah, I think that is true.
+
+[34:47] Um the other one though is the um is how it looks, the optical properties. Right, sure. Uh we have a photo in the book where we took a uh green liquid, a um uh parsley juice actually, and then emulsified it with oil uh in a bunch of different ways. And the smaller the droplets, the whiter it gets. Uh when put through the uh h high pressure homogenizer, you wind up with something which is uh almost it's like a tiny amount of tint to uh cream.
+
+[35:22] Uh whereas if you whisk it by hand, you can still make an emulsion, but the emulsion is very, very green. And the reason is that the droplets of oil in the emulsion, they scatter light. The smaller you make them, the more of them there are. And so the more scattering you get, and so the more whiteness you get. Right.
+
+[35:42] How up are you on pickle technology, Nathan? Um fair amount. We we have quite a few pickles in the book. Um, let's take this question from red then. While I've made good half sours at home with salt and water, so we're talking a fermented pickle, not a quick pickle, and small amounts of alum.
+
+[35:59] I don't use alum, but I mean I have it, but I don't use it. They are not what I would find in New York. Would add in calcium hydroxide to a half sour brine, keep them bright green and help them prevent them from getting soft. I've done some stuff with this. I would say I wouldn't add it to the brine.
+
+[36:12] We're talking about uh pickling lime. I would I would soak them before you brine them. Uh that'll stop from getting soft, but I don't think it's going to keep them bright green. Did you ever do any research with cooking in copper to keep things bring green or or uh any of these things with pickles? Uh no, we didn't.
+
+[36:27] Because it's toxic. We we didn't cover pickles that extensively. Well, I think it's because it's toxic. That's why none of us do it, right? Theoretically toxic.
+
+[36:33] Well, that would be one of the reasons, yes. Um obviously uh copper does oxidize green, but uh and as a result there are blue dyes that are copper-based and so forth, but they're toxic, and so I I wouldn't do that. Right. I mean, uh the uh in the research I was doing this morning, because this it came in this morning, uh, you know, they used to boil apparently the because you know you can not boil, but you can you can high temp simmer uh for a brief period of time below the uh softening point uh and apparently that was another way to increase firmness. Although m I don't know why, I guess to to get the pectin methylesterase to uh help reinforce the structures below the point at which they uh pectin but below the point at which you break it down.
+
+[37:14] I don't know. But they apparently they used to do it in copper, and that would lead to a bright green color because you're replacing um the ion and the chlorophyll with copper, which is stable and bright green. But I just would I wouldn't do it. I don't think the green's that important, do you? Uh I agree.
+
+[37:28] Yeah, I mean, in other words, I don't think it's as big a uh a flavor. So pr preventing oxidation or changes in color in something like an apple, I think is vital because the flavor is also changing at the same time uh as a direct result of what's going on. But uh I don't think uh the same is true with uh with pickles and and them turning a shade of green. I don't think it's gonna affect the the flavor. It's just not my that's not my feeling.
+
+[37:52] Uh well I think you're probably right. And of course, if you do want to dye something green, there's safe ways to dye green. And I would rather use a safe food coloring than uh some copper thing I'm leaching out of my pot. Right, right. And uh on safety, we have a question, and he has he has a couple questions here, we'll take this one right now.
+
+[38:11] Uh Mike calls in with uh plastic wrap and he says, Um, I can't recall us discussing plastic wrap on the air before. I mean, it's something I've dealt with a little bit on the blog, but what are the heat effects on plastic wraps, specifically the consumer plastic wraps I might find in the supermarket, or maybe the food service ones I can find at a restaurant supply? What's the safe temperature range to use uh in uh poaching and immersion baths uh in a galotine, for instance, and what should what should they worry about? What's gonna leach in into the food? I would say actually a home one is probably gonna end up they're crappier because they're smaller and they're a pain to deal with, but um and most food service wrap now is is polyethylene like the home ones, but uh I would stay away from PVC wraps, obviously.
+
+[38:51] Um I mean I'm not you find you do find PVC wraps in restaurant supply places. Uh you find it at Costco in in big uh any of the really big uh containers w of of the plastic wrap are usually PVC. Um at least how often they are, you gotta check. And PVC is considered okay if the stuff isn't hot. Um but I just rather not have it in the kitchen because I don't want to have to remember which plastic wrap should be hot and which plastic wrap should not be hot.
+
+[39:25] Are they properly are they labeled? I can't remember. I I can't try to remember in my head looking for the label on a box. If you read the box, I've always seen it labeled. Right.
+
+[39:33] It'll say PVC or polyvinyl chloride somewhere if it's a PVC side. If it's uh it's not always true that the polyethylene ones have uh thing if they have a proprietary thing. I'm not sure that saran wrap says it's polyethylene, because it's this proprietary brand name. Right. Um it is polyethylene, it is safe.
+
+[39:54] Yeah. I mean, the the interesting thing I find with plastic wraps is I mean, polyethylene is great because it's supposed to not have any um plasticizers that are gonna leach into your food. However, they are made with solvents, and if they're not allowed to flash off properly when they're coming off the rolls at the mill, they can have some solvent aroma left to them. Um I always I uh it's miraculous to me if you wad up plastic wrap and smell it, how many of them have a smell? Um have you noticed that too, Nathan?
+
+[40:27] I mean, it's just like uh you know, at the school it happens a lot because we have a bunch of different plastic wraps lying around and you can just kind of run around the school and smell them. Um I think also the PVC ones tend to uh look the biggest problem is fat-related things. If there's anything in the plastic solvents or whatnot, they tend to be more lipophilic uh than uh hydrophilic. And so this is why if you have a bad plastic wrap and you go to a cheese shop and they wrap cheese in it, the cheese picks up these horrible aromas from the plastic that basically never come out, and the cheese is ruined from an organ organoleptic standpoint, not necessarily from a safety standpoint. Um that said, I use polyethylene uh all the time, uh all the way up to uh I mean I don't do much m uh protein cooking above uh 62 or or so except for confie, which I like at traditional temperatures.
+
+[41:18] Uh what about you, Nathan? Do you have any uh upper limits that you'd take the polyethylene to um you know normally the upper limit is sort of enforced on you by the fact that stuff gets really soft? Right. Um so uh it real sous-vide bags uh have are usually multi-layered, they usually have nylon as one of their layers, uh, and they're good for much higher temperatures. And uh they're also safe and tested at much higher temperatures.
+
+[41:50] So something like a Ziploc bag or a plastic wrap, I would I tend to use it at 60 C or below. Um and there just isn't a whole lot of reason for stuff you'd cook hotter to use the that stuff because there's better ways to do it. Right. I mean, I do we do chicken gala, we do chicken gallantines at like 64 and plastic wrap, and they're fine. You know, but that's basically the highest the highest that will uh that will go up.
+
+[42:16] And also from Mike, you want to take a non a non-step uh technical question? You want to take a uh a dinner etiquette and um marriage question we have from Mike that uh maybe we can both weigh in on here? Sure. Okay, so uh Mike's question is on dinner parties. When having guests over for a dinner party, eight people or less, would you serve food with a plated presentation, family style at the table, or buffet?
+
+[42:36] Here's his background. His wife and uh uh and and he are trying to entertain uh smaller uh groups versus going out to large gallery gatherings because of better quality conversation, close friends, etc. Uh and Mike loves to cook, so he takes us on happily. His wife is a wonderful person, he says. He's making this thing.
+
+[42:50] His wife is wonderful, he's not saying anything negative about her, but a fairly picky eater. Yeah, but but a fairly picky eater, mainly texture over taste, but that's for another day. She never makes a fuss over and has never gone hungry when we're out. But he's worried about if he plates his food, uh he wants to do plated food because he wants to challenge himself and because he thinks uh he'd like to think through the menu for the night, and he thinks out uh he'd like to think about the way everything's gonna show up on a plate. She doesn't want it plated, she wants it family style because it's going to allow her to discreetly choose what to eat and what not to eat and not feel and and also to control portion size and not feel left out, not feel like she's being served something and not eating it and and feel bad.
+
+[43:28] Um so uh what do you think? Help help help Mike out here. Well, it's it's pretty hard to to recommend to anyone that they do something that will upset their spouse. That's probably not a good idea, just in general in life. Um you know, the the reason to do plated dishes uh is because it gives the chef control, allows you to do fancier, more interesting things uh in general.
+
+[43:55] Um, you know, almost anything you plate up you could put onto a platter, but then it's harder to transfer, and it doesn't look as nice. Um that said, the food does actually is gonna be uh apart from a very few exceptions, I think the food's gonna be fine either way. So um I would say try to strike a compromise with your wife and uh uh find some uh uh you know you you also can do family style for some things and not for others. You know, you can have your entree, uh the some restaurants do that, you know. The steakhouse typically the steak is individual and the side dishes are all done family style.
+
+[44:37] Yeah, exactly. I think that's that's excellent advice. Pick some stuff that you know is a slam dunk for your wife, stuff that you know she likes, and work only with those things on the plated stuff and have them come out early in the meal when she's already when she's when she's not full yet, and then she can scale back her portion sizes later in the meal when you go family style, right? Wouldn't that make sense? Makes sense to me.
+
+[44:59] I mean, for me, I get viciously, viciously angry if I plate something, and I'm not just talking plated, like I'm talking sandwiches. Anytime you construct a food and then you watch someone pick it apart in front of you, I get viciously angry. Even uh and I shouldn't say this on the air because people do it all the time, but like like even when chefs do it, when um when you when I see someone do it to someone else's food, I'm like, look, at least taste it the way that they presented it, because that's the way it was intended, and and then pick it up, pick it apart. I mean, a sandwich doesn't taste the same if it's horribly mangled and then rearranged. It's not intended to be eaten that way.
+
+[45:35] Do you know what I mean? Yep. I mean, uh d doesn't that make you kind of irritated sometimes, Nathan? I mean, if you actually hate something or you're allergic, fine. You know what I mean?
+
+[45:44] But you're still not better better to tell the kitchen that beforehand, right? This way they can make adjustments to the sandwich or to the plate such that it's still something that they're proud of. Here's my problem with it. My problem with it is you mangle somebody's plating or somebody's dish, right? And then you judge them based on your mangled version of their dish without giving them the opportunity to make the dish such that you would like it given your uh issues with the food, right?
+
+[46:11] I mean, does that make sense or no? Yeah, I think it does make sense. Uh there's a uh there's a lot of uh there's a lot to be said for having the chef uh be allowed to make it the best possible way. Uh and uh anyone who is cooking for other people wants to please those people. And so uh i it is always a little uh disappointing if you're not given that opportunity.
+
+[46:40] Now to be fair, there are some people who uh for whatever reason view it oppositely and they say, Oh, I don't want to bother the chef by telling him that I don't like uh, you know, pickles on my sandwich or or or some other thing, that they they feel that's being too picky, and so they they don't say it up front and then they try to pick it out afterwards. But I agree, in general, you should be up front with with what your um your requests are. Uh obviously if someone's allergic to something, that's a totally different issue. Although if you're really allergic to it, it's too late to pick it up at the time, you know. Yeah, yeah, but if you have a nut allergy, picking the peanuts out of your kung pao chicken is too late.
+
+[47:23] You're screwed. Um, yeah, but it let's take uh okay. But I'll say this. Uh, pickles is a very good example. If I put pickles on something, um, it's telling me I have to take a break, but probably because that dish desperately needs the acidity from the pickle.
+
+[47:41] So you remove that pickle and you now you've now you've unbalanced the whole thing. Then if you don't enjoy it, uh I feel bad. That's what it is. Basically, if you don't enjoy it, I feel bad. That's where that's what it comes down to.
+
+[47:52] Um, all right, listen, the next caller, and we're gonna go take one more break. The next caller is gonna get that apron. What was that song anyway? What is it? The Avalanche?
+
+[49:23] Not the Avalanche. I don't know that one. This is the first time we've had a song. I have no idea what it is. Anyway, welcome back to Cooking Issues.
+
+[49:28] Call your questions too. 7184972128. Your questions from Nathan Miraville. That's 7184972128. Well, we have an interesting one in from uh Josh in Antigua.
+
+[49:38] Uh says, hello. He's been cooking Dave Chang's uh five minute, 10 second eggs and eating them with everything lately. He notices sometimes it's harder to peel them uh without obliterating the white of the egg. Is this due to something in my procedure? I bring the eggs to room temperature before I boil them, let them sit in warm uh by uh by letting them sit in warm water.
+
+[49:55] After boiling for four minutes and fifty seconds, he thinks 5'10 is uh too set. He places the eggs in an ice bath until they're cool enough to handle. After wrapping a spoon against the shell until it's shattered into small pieces, he then peels the eggs in the ice bath. Uh anyway, blah blah blah. Sometimes the eggs come off with sorry, I didn't mean blah blah blah Josh.
+
+[50:11] You know what I'm saying? Sometimes it comes off with no problem, other times uh it rips the egg apart. Please explain uh what's going on. Uh I have my feelings on it. Nathan, do you have any feelings on that one?
+
+[50:20] Well, the uh texture of egg is very critically dependent on the temperature at which it's cooked. And uh the so the first question I would have is how consistent is it if you're boy if you're boiling and and timing it exactly, that's probably okay unless you're varying the number of eggs or the size of the pot or how crowded they are. Uh because that can make a difference if it's i if it the water on the egg is uh is a little cooler because you put too many eggs in, uh, you're gonna wind up with it less cooked, which means it's much easier to rip it. The other possibility is that it it's uh has been established that the age of the egg makes a difference, that uh uh very fresh versus older eggs will have a different texture. Right.
+
+[51:07] Uh that could be it. I think that's exact exactly what's going on. I mean, Chang's, I think argument there is rapidly boiling large pots and you know, an uh a quantity of eggs that's not going to perceptively uh perceptibly uh you know lower the temperature of the water, that it's gonna be able to recover quickly enough that it's not gonna make that much of a difference. He always uses the same type uh same size rather of egg and always uh uh starting at the same initial temperature, which uh as Nathan said should uh prove fairly accurate. There are some studies that show that uh eggs boiled uh at uh you know uh quickly at high temperature rather than ramped up from cold are easier to shell than ones that are uh ramped up from cold and then and then shelled.
+
+[51:54] Uh Nathan and I both know that the exact opposite is true of low temperature eggs, ones that are cooked in the 62, 63, 64 Celsius range, because there the thin white just never sets up and it acts as a release agent, and there's nothing easier in the world than breaking out an egg that's been cooked at at 62 degrees uh Celsius. Um but uh the the other thing is as eggs uh age, the uh pH rises, the egg white becomes more alkaline. Uh and as it becomes more alkaline, and this is according to uh egg science and technology by uh William uh Stadleman uh and you know and others, uh as the pH rises, the eggs become easier to shell because uh the proteins in the thin white don't adhere as strongly to the uh to the membrane. And this is a big deal in egg processing technology because people produce for a living uh shelled eggs and the value goes down dramatically. So people try to figure out a way to not have to store eggs, boil them quickly, and then rip the shells off of them.
+
+[52:54] And so what they do is they actually alkalize the eggs. They they store them above uh a sodium hydroxide bath, not in it, but above it, uh, and that uh increases the pH more rapidly than aging. Uh and McGee actually recommends putting a pinch of baking soda into your water, although I've never tried it to try and alkalize it more and make them easier to uh to shell. And uh another interesting reason to try and take a fresh egg and uh alkalize it so that it can peel easily is because uh even though it becomes easier to peel, the f the taste of eggs uh in the panels I've read on in these uh um technical studies, the taste of egg does deteriorate over time, even though the peelability goes up. Uh anyway, we have a collar on the air.
+
+[53:34] Here's one other little tip I'll say if you really want to uh make it easier to peel your eggs, uh run a blowtorch very lightly over the egg before peeling. Uh it helps degrade the the shell and it's much easier. It also works to roll the egg in liquid nitrogen very easily before peeling it. That's hilarious. Extreme hot or extreme cold, both uh will make the shell more brittle.
+
+[53:58] You heard it here first, unless you own modernist cuisine. Uh all right, caller, you're on the air. Hi, my name is Matt. I'm calling from Chicago. Howdy.
+
+[54:07] Uh Dave, I talked to you a while ago about mattress infusing uh honey, and it didn't really work out, but that's a whole nother story. Lately, um I've been playing around with a little bit of uh baking soda and Chardonnay to make it for um effervescent. Right. Uh I did like a powdered sugar and baking soda rim. And I was wondering if you guys could give me some suggestions on doing a sorbet that has, say, something on top of it.
+
+[54:33] So when you eat the sorbet and it melts, it becomes effervescent in your mouth. Oh, by the way, you won the apron, so don't hang up when you're done. We'll get you back on the air and we'll figure out how to mail the thing to you because you were the in the next caller. So awesome. Thank you very much.
+
+[54:47] Well, thank thank Nathan. He donated it to the show for you to have. Uh but Nathan, you have any uh ideas? I wouldn't use baking soda, by the way. I mean, you need an acid plus uh a base.
+
+[54:58] I wouldn't use bak but anyway, Nathan. Go ahead. Well, um, you know, the the problem with uh having an acid base reaction to make it effervescent is you're gonna get some taste out of it. Um which in some con in some contexts that's okay. You know, baking powder biscuits have a taste that is characteristic that way.
+
+[55:19] Um unclear whether it's gonna be okay in your Chardonnay. I mean it but that's sort of a personal preference. Uh uh the only other way to make something effervescent is to put in uh something like Pop Rocks that already is effervescent itself and a sort of stored effervescent. Right, and and uh the pop rocks is definitely I think a better way to go, and you can buy unflavored pop rocks. Although to be fair, Nathan, Pop Rocks isn't the same feeling as like effervescence in a uh in a in a drink.
+
+[55:54] Hey, um why don't we tone we'll t we'll leave him on the air because we need him to get the thing, but we'll tone down as a direct way. Yeah. So take your your um Chardonnay and put it in a seltzer bottle. And infuse it with uh CO2. Yeah, much better.
+
+[56:08] The the reason that uh soft drinks and champagne are effervescent is that they have carbon dioxide gas dissolved in it. And carbon dioxide happens to be a gas that is will very readily dissolve in a cold liquid. Uh and uh a seltzer bottle is exactly how you do that. So I would say, look, if you really want to have effervescent Chardonnay to make sort of a faux champagne um uh just you know carbonize uh uh carbonate it directly. And the seltzer bottle is the simplest way, there are some other approaches you can do if you put a tiny bit of dry ice into the bottle and seal it up, that'll also work.
+
+[56:48] You just gotta be careful you don't blow your bottle up. Yes. Uh okay. I would I would Google image uh dry ice soda bottle to to see people's eyes when they when they don't do it properly. Because the bottle will blow.
+
+[57:02] Uh and then uh my question was I'm trying to do it for a dessert where it's a sorbet, like it's a Chardonnay sorbet, and maybe there's um some kind of chemical on top that as it melts in the mouth or as you put it together it it it's almost effervescent in your mouth. As it the reaction is going on in your mouth. And you think maybe the pop rocks is a good thing. That would work, but it will have its own sort of texture and taste characteristics. Um, I've not tried this, but uh you could if you made your sorbet, you ought to be able to carbonate it.
+
+[57:42] It's it's tough because the the carbonation only works in the liquid phase, so it's a question of how much liquid phase. Well, you have to spin it first. You can't freeze it. But i if you took uh it and you made a sorbet in a sorbet machine or a Paco Jet or something else, so it's in its state that's semi-liquid. I bet you will get some CO2 in there.
+
+[58:04] I mean I've awesome. I pressurized a tailor once, and besides spraying ice cream base all over the kitchen, I wasn't able to get as much of an effect as as I wanted. Uh Sam Mason was working on this for a while. I'm I'm I'm sure I mean look, it's obviously it's possible, but the the car the carbonation is only going to be present in the liquid phase. So you're gonna have to the soupier your sorbet is, the better the effect of the carbonation is going to be.
+
+[58:29] I mean, I think I think I think you might want to go with uh the pop rocks. Don't you think that's the easiest way? Um there all there's a guy uh uh someone on the internet who has a uh a site on dry ice ice cream, where instead of making uh ice cream with liquid nitrogen, which is something Dave and I uh have been known to do, uh he puts powdered dry ice into it and then puts it into the l lets it sit. Well, the interesting thing is the car the carbon dioxide does not get absorbed very much into the uh ice cream base, a little bit it does. But it makes a uh texture that looks almost exactly like white bread.
+
+[59:08] Huh. Uh because um I've done that before with uh dry ice pellets. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah, so so that's that's a way to make now that's not quite the same thing as you're describing.
+
+[59:21] Um, no, no, no, no. But I'm just saying I've made an ice cream before with the base and dry ice pellets. Okay, cool. I mean, I I once made it by mistake, like a many, many years ago, chilled a base with dry ice because I found a soft serve machine on the street and the chilling thing didn't work. And uh I chilled down the base with dry ice and then froze it soft serve, and and it was it was horrible.
+
+[59:43] First of all, it was the only time I it was the first time in my life many, many years ago that I had made a large amount of base at once in a pot by hand and I curdled the eggs at the bottom and so it tasted like scrambled egg soda ice cream but not in a good kind of Heston Blumenthal way, kind of in a really crappy I messed up the ice cream way. Hello, Dave? Yep. Okay. Hey listen um I appreciate your I appreciate your information that it's been great.
+
+[1:00:07] It's getting kinda louder on that sorry. All right I just wanted to tell you uh real quickly I think the conversation with Steve Miller was that the old record executive sent a younger guy in there and the younger guy told him he had to have a hit record so Steve Miller kicked back and said, well how about this Abercadabra I'm gonna reach out and grab you. For real? Alright the Nathan what we're talking about here is Steve Miller's worst song is clearly Abracadabra. Uh I don't know whether Nathan whether you're a Steve Miller fan or not but the worst song Steve Miller ever came up with by far, Abracadabra.
+
+[1:00:42] Um I'm I am told that we have uh one more caller on the air true we lost him if they if they come back they come back. Um okay we had a question in uh from Nedward uh via Eater Nathan noted that someone spotted you on an airplane reading the modernist cuisine PDFs do you plan on selling the PDFs to poor cooks who can't buy the book um you know I really don't think anyone spotted me on an airplane doing that. Hey look this is not this is not me this is coming in via the internet. Okay, it's true, but look just let me say I I I have not been in that situation. I can promise you that.
+
+[1:01:23] Um, so you're not denying that the PDS exists. In order to um uh to print the book, you know, PDFs are a key part of the whole printing process. Uh that's how the book gets sent over to the printer in China is as PDF, so of course we have PDFs of the book. Um and we have had there was a period where we had some reviewers uh that uh needed to see the book and we didn't have physical books, so we had a uh password protected website where reviewers could go read the PDFs. And the result was kind of interesting.
+
+[1:01:57] Uh most people found that it was better than nothing, but only a little bit better than nothing, and that uh the usability was not very good. Uh I think if we really wanted to make a uh online or interactive or um iPad version of the book, we'd have to do something a lot more extensive than simply put the the PDFs up there because navigating around those huge photos, navigating around the the the rest of the book is just too hard. Right. All right, let's take so someday I would like to have an interactive version of the book. Uh you know, we made a decision uh two years before release as to what platform we would target first, and we chose paper books because there was no iPad, and Kindle didn't do color and still doesn't.
+
+[1:02:47] Uh so you really couldn't have something that would really show off what we were trying to do. Um at some point in the future we will probably make a uh interactive version, but it's a lot of work. Um, to get the quality the same to get the interaction the same. You mean to get the quality what you want. I mean, you could easily do an online version.
+
+[1:03:06] Do you want to have video? Uh do you want to have animations? Do you want to have good navigation? All of those things take some software development effort, or they take a whole bunch more um effort in shooting a video. It's not easy to do.
+
+[1:03:21] Right. Exactly. You said it better than I did. Apparently that caller that uh got dropped is back on the air. Let's take one last call.
+
+[1:03:35] Hello, caller, you're on the air. Hello, this is Daniel from San Jose, California. Howdy. I had a question about um acidic marinades in the book Um Modernist Cuisine. There's a section on acidic marinade in meat, and um the section talks about how acidic marinades can actually tenderize meat and improve their moisture holding capacities.
+
+[1:04:00] I was um interested in um how this how you guys came to this conclusion because um I've noticed that there are others like um Harold McGee who believe that um acidic marinades only um denature protein on the surface of meat. Take it away, Nathan. Well uh I think there's two issues going on here. First of all, marinades only penetrate a certain distance. That's just a fact.
+
+[1:04:33] Um and any marinade is only gonna work on the surface if you don't either give it enough time to to go in or you don't do something like injection or tumbling or other things to speed it up. Uh now uh, an acidic marinade, uh if it's there are many cookbooks that will have an acidic marinade where you put the the meat in for a very short period of time, 20 minutes or something like that. That is just a surface flavoring. And that's fine if that's the surface flavor you want to get. You just shouldn't think you're gonna change the interior of a piece of meat in a 10 or 20 minute period.
+
+[1:05:08] It isn't gonna happen. It takes too long for the diffusion time. But an acidic marinade certainly will denature proteins um all the way through the meat if you get the marinade all the way through the meat. And either by waiting long enough or by using injection uh or tumbling or all of the above, you certainly can get that to happen. Um the similar things, of course, occur with a uh alkaline marinade.
+
+[1:05:36] Uh in either case, what you're trying to do is take the meat proteins into a regime where they're not normally um uh but present in meat. So you either make it much more acidic or much more alkaline, and either one causes some of the proteins to break down. And depending on the context, that could be desirable. But I promise you it'll work all the way through if you inject it or um uh uh or tumble it or simply wait long enough or have your meat be thin enough. All right, thank you.
+
+[1:06:09] Well, uh there there you have it. And uh I would like to I'm gonna I'm gonna answer guy named Josh writes in and asks where he can get high proof liquor in England because he wants to do uh like infusions and wants to know if you really need the high proof liquor. Answer Josh, yes. You can't buy Everclear in uh in England, though, they don't sell it. Look for Spiritus vodka out of Poland at the Whiskey Exchange, or look for Stro, rum from Austria, the original 80%.
+
+[1:06:35] That'll float your infusion boat. I have many, many thanks. Thank you, Nathan, for spending this last hour with us. I think people really enjoyed it. Uh hopefully you'll come on again sometime.
+
+[1:06:44] Modernist Cuisine, the greatest series of cookbooks ever written. Cooking issues. Thank you. Oh, you did rat. Got me on this corner.
+
+[1:07:10] And I don't know where I'm at. Supposed to be my baby. Between a minute's late. You got my head all twisted. And I guess can't get it straight.
+
+[1:07:31] Fishes, fishes, but you dairy rat. Got me on this corner. And I don't know where I'm at. I had a chance to swap you. For a little.
+
+[1:07:56] Every spring at the end of kidding season, goat dairies across the country are faced with a question of what to do with their male bucklings. Because on a dairy farm, there's no role for a male. Often the most economical thing for these farmers to do is to call the animals at birth or ship them off to the commodity market. Heritage Foods USA is embarking on a new project. No goat left behind, looking to step in and fill this niche by creating a marketplace for these male bucklings.
+
+[1:08:21] Visit us at www.heritagefoodsusa.com to learn more and to reserve your goat this coming October. New York Night Train, Summer Soul Shindig, Rockaway Beach Party, featuring the 45 RPM soul magic of DJ Jonathan Tobin. Saturday, August 20th, 6 9 at Rippers Boardwalk 86. Free Party.
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+[0:05] You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com, bringing you the freshest radio in Brooklyn since 2009. Here directly from chefs to farmers, artists to architects, authors to brewers, and everyone in between. Check out all of our shows on our website or by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. The following program has been brought to you by Kane Vineyard and Winery. Kane Vineyard and Winery supports heritage radio and the growing movement to change how Americans eat and how we think about our planet.
+
+[0:37] For more information, visit www.cane5.com. Oh, you dead. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. I'm Dave Arnold. Your host of Cooking Issues coming to you from roughly 12 to 1245 every Tuesday here in the studio with Nastasha DeHammer Lopez.
+
+[1:08] We're coming to you from the Heritage Radio Network in the back of Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwig, Brooklyn. So listen, Nastasha, what's the telephone number to call in? 718 4972128. That's 718-497-2128. 2128?
+
+[1:24] Yes. Good. Um, just so you know, well, that's kind of a thing. I can't remember the dang telephone number of this place. When it comes to cyanic glycosides, I'm there for you, buddies, but with the telephone number, can't help.
+
+[1:35] Listen, we have a caller on the air, so let's go right to it. Hi Dave. Hey, how you doing? Good. Um, I've got a two-part question.
+
+[1:45] All right. First one, I'm in London. Where should I go for drinks? Well, that's easy. Before you even go any further, that is simple.
+
+[1:52] Anywhere that my friend Tony Cunnellaro is involved, you should go immediately for drinks. Uh, the one that I go to all the time is 69, excuse me. I bike here at about a thousand miles an hour, so my throat's a little scratchy. So 69 Colebrook Row. It's in Islington.
+
+[2:12] It's uh like a 10 minute walk from the Angel Tube Stop. I can't believe I said tube stop on the air. Uh and uh what else did you like when we were there, Nastasha? Where'd you go? Oh, I don't remember.
+
+[2:25] I wasn't with you most of the time. Well, that might work because I I work quite close to the angels tube stop. Um now we said it twice on the air. Right. I uh should I get wait uh anything.
+
+[2:38] Uh here's the thing about it. Like that, I nine times out of ten, I mean look, Tony's a friend of mine. So uh when I go, I typically don't pay, which means I don't go anywhere else. Uh uh so I I I've had most of my drinks there. That said, I mean if we've been to Hicks, um apologize, man.
+
+[2:57] I have to bike here earlier. It's just seriously, I was breaking my neck to make it here because I was researching stuff, so I have something caught in my throat, and I didn't have time to get it out, so I apologize again. Uh so Tony is uh is runs a very interesting bar there. He also has a new hotel bar, but I don't know what it is. I thought he has a uh lab, then the Pink Floyd Studios, the old Pink Floyd Studios.
+
+[3:19] Really? I think the drinks also might be interesting. There's a new restaurant restaurant uh um in excuse me. Remind me, never to do this again. Always give myself five minutes before we start to uh no matter how late I am to get whatever it's in my throat out of my throat.
+
+[3:35] So uh Quince, the new restaurant I think has some interesting drinks as well, uh, and Hicks. But Tony uses high-tech stuff like rotary evaporators, centrifuge, but you would never know it in his bar because the bar is like a little tiny, like neighborhood bar that just happens to serve some of the best drinks uh in the country. And it's not me saying that. He's rated like constantly like one of the best people, but like whatever they're making, my trick is I always walk in and say bartender's choice. What do you want to make?
+
+[4:03] And then typically, you know, if you if you if you tell them that you're game for whatever they're gonna make, typically they will make you something interesting. If the if uh you know, if you're like, I I really like tasteless vodka drinks, well then they'll size you up and they'll give you something. I mean, Tony will still give you something good, and all of his people are good, but you know what I'm saying. A bartender's choice is always the best choice. Right, but can I say bartender's choice, preferably with whiskey and well stuck?
+
+[4:28] Yeah, sure, yeah, sure. Yeah, that's perfectly respectable. I mean, look, it they're actually one of those great places where they're not going to make you feel bad there for whatever you drink. They're not they're not snobs that way, even though they're some of the best people in the business. Um but yeah, you mean it's you know, definitely typically what I'll do is I'll say, uh, you know, your choice.
+
+[4:48] I'm feeling kind of like a brown liquor today, or maybe I'll say whiskey or something like that. And they can they they they have all things there, but they do a lot of really interesting stuff. And they have a piano, and certain nights there's tranny bands playing. Even better. Yeah.
+
+[5:03] Um the second part of the question is uh what are your feelings on water chestnuts? Ah, interesting. Water chestnuts. Okay, so my wife detests water chestnuts. So do I.
+
+[5:15] Really? Uh I like them. For her, it's a textural thing, and uh uh, you know, at one point I said to her, Look, uh, maybe it's that you don't like canned water chestnuts and you grew up eating canned water chestnuts, so I made them fresh. And she's like, No, I hate these too. And I was like, Oh, is it similar for you?
+
+[5:30] Is it a textural issue? Yeah, I mean, it doesn't really add anything in taste. I don't like the crispiness of it. Um I pick them out of every food, and I cannot for the life of me understand why anyone thinks it adds anything to a recipe. What do you what do you think, Nastashi?
+
+[5:42] I bet you hate them too, Nastasha. I used to like them as a kid. I hated them. Yeah, Nastasha hates most things though, so uh yeah, you know, you and my wife are in the same camp. I'd like to I kind of like they have a very uh unique um okay, so the texture is crispy in the way that a raw potato is crispy, but without that raw potato flavor.
+
+[6:00] So if you like the texture of a raw potato, but not not that not that raw starchy flavor, then a water chestnut seems like it's a good bet for you. If you don't like that texture, I think you're gonna be in trouble. Would you agree or no? No, I agree. It's the ta I mean, I'm not looking for a raw potato texture either, I guess.
+
+[6:17] Right. And uh water chestnuts and certain other things that grow in uh the water like that can have uh uh parasitic worms in them. I think it's worms. Maybe it's a bacteria, I forget. So you need to cook your water chestnuts before you uh before you eat them if you get them fresh.
+
+[6:32] So don't, you know, eat them raw. Uh well, you shouldn't eat them at all because you don't like them. But here's a here's a good um thing that uh Nils Norrin always used to get uh water chestnut flour, and he said that for dusting a fish and frying, uh he loves water chestnut flour. And I think that's a trick he picked up when he was working in China. Water chestnut flour is not so easy to come by here in the US.
+
+[6:56] I don't know about the UK, but it's definitely available, so maybe there is a uh a use for water chestnut for you yet. Well, I'll look into it. Um final thing, Dave, it's uh it's actually Brady. Brady! Oh, this is my cousin Brady.
+
+[7:11] I didn't know you hated that in the beginning. I didn't know you hated water chestnut uh water chestnuts. Brady and they keep showing up in the side dishes here. I'm like, why do people do that? It's ruining the dish for me.
+
+[7:21] And I thought I'd uh I'd ask you. Well, uh, this is interesting that I unrelated, you know, just we're family by you know, my by marriage, my wife and Brady, and and me, actually. But uh the uh two people in the family that hate water chestnuts, the only two people I know are people who regularly come to my house. When you're coming back to the stage. But that's good because Jeff Jen hates him, then that means he will not make them while I'm there, so correct.
+
+[7:45] Go to Tony's bar or I'll kill you, and you never invit her to my house again. No, I'm going there today after work, so I thought I'd call. Alright, cool. Thanks a lot. Alright, see ya.
+
+[7:53] Alright, listen. I I'm gonna recover my throat, and we can take the first commercial break, come back and I'll answer some email questions. Call in all your questions too! 7184972128. That's I want to ride my bicycle.
+
+[8:07] I want to ride my bicycle. I want to ride my bike. I want to ride my bicycle. I want to ride it where I like. You say black, I say white, you say boss, I say bite, say sharks, say him and George Rose, never my scene, and I don't like Star Wars.
+
+[8:28] Say rolls, say Royce, say God, give me a choice. I don't believe in pizza band, Frankenstein or Superman. I want to ride my single I want to ride my bicycle. I want to ride my bike. I want to ride my bicycle.
+
+[8:59] Races are coming. So forget all your duties on here. And welcome back to Cooking Issues. I am almost fully recovered. Just give you an idea of what you're dealing with when you're biking from Manhattan to Brooklyn.
+
+[9:21] I pass by a concrete factory on my way over here. And a giant uh, you know, uh, what are those things called with the big thing in front, the scoops? Bulldozer. A bulldozer dumps an entire bulldozer, like, you know, shovel load of dirty concrete water basically on my bike as I'm biking past him. That's that's Brooklyn.
+
+[9:40] Anyway, call on your questions to 718497-2128. That's 7184972128. We're gonna be here for a little while because I got some email questions to answer. Alright, by the way, uh, we have this new kind of thing. People just call in with kind of information and shout outs.
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+[9:54] Have you noticed that recently? We've gotten a lot of people just writing in with some info. Yeah. Alright. Well, so here's some info.
+
+[10:00] For those of you who are in the New York area and don't have a job, uh, or who have a nighttime job. Alright. Uh Tom Metcalf says uh there's a really good movie that you should look at at the MoMA today. That's Museum of Modern Art. Jiro Dreams of Sushi.
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+[10:15] Uh is basically uh it's playing at um took today, I think, August 23rd of today, right? Uh yeah. Yeah, 4 p.m. at MoMA. And uh the film is about Jiro One, the best uh Jiro uh Jiro Ono, the best, the best.
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+[10:26] I mean I hate that best, but like you know, one of the world world's most renowned sushi chefs in Japan in Tokyo and chronicle chronicles his lifelong uh complete devotion to becoming ever better at his craft. And uh Tom believes that uh I uh have made some comments that suggest I would admire his work ethic. Um I've seen it. You seen it? Was it good?
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+[10:44] It was good. Yeah, good. Compare it to the Faron Adrian movie. Faron Adria was a bit better. Well it's relatable, I guess.
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+[10:44] Right. Well, so we actually had the filmmakers on uh A Taste of the Past, episode 60, for those who want to hear. Please go, please go listen to that. Now, here's the thing. Uh view uh listeners uh to this show are kind of specialized, uh they have specialized interests, right?
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+[11:06] So I went to go see the what's the name of the Fron Adrian movie that we we uh did the event for? What's it called? Um it's a movie about Faron Adria. Anyway, it's uh so some reviewers have criticized that it's basically just food porn, and how much can you how how how long can you sit and watch Ferron tasting different pieces of food? This is a valid criticism for someone who's not interested in the process of making food, right?
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+[11:33] So uh I went to go see it and I thought it was extremely interesting because it gives you an insight into the way that uh L Boey and Faron, how they work, how they cook, how their process is. Uh and as uh as a cook, as someone who's interested in cooking, to me that's extremely valuable because Faron is clearly uh at the at the very top of uh his game, the top of the field in what he does. Um so it it would be extremely interesting, I think very, very worthwhile for anyone interested in Japanese cooking techniques, which I am extremely interested in. I wish I could go to it today because I would, but unfortunately I can't drop what I'm doing this afternoon to go. Um I'm sure I'll see it eventually.
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+[12:17] Uh it's very difficult to get an insight into Japanese cooking techniques because uh the mode of learning in many high-end Japanese kitchens is one of years of careful observation without uh much explanation, let's put it that way. And so, really the only way to learn what they're doing. You're never you know, you're never gonna learn what you're doing, right? Because you have to sit there for you know two years uh you know washing the rice before they let you cook it or whatever, whatever the old, you know, the old things are. But um in a in a in a Japanese or really any cooking demonstration, don't who cares what they're saying?
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+[12:56] Don't pay any attention because nine times out of ten, they're not telling you what's really going on anyway. Pay attention to their hands, pay attention to the ingredients they're using, pay attention to the the way their hands move, uh, and these kinds of things are going to give you a big clue as to what is uh what is actually going on in the food. So and this is why videos and live demonstrations from top-notch people are so valuable to watch. And so the ability to see in a movie uh someone like this working is invaluable. So I do I do hope to see it, and it could almost be I mean it can't be silent because I have to hear what the ingredients are, what's going on, but the explanation and any sort of plot or arc or narrative, I really could care less.
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+[13:42] Uh and then and I shouldn't probably say that, that's a mean thing to say, but you know what, but you know what I'm saying. It's like for me, it's gonna be valuable out of the way. Do you think it did uh who do you see it with? Mark. Did Mark find Mark we're talking Mark Ladner from Del Posto.
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+[13:53] Did he find it valuable? Yeah. He did. Yeah, I bet. You know, Mark likes fish, Mark likes to push a fish.
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+[13:58] Mark used to get in those whole Kindai Tunis, butcher them up and uh and send them back. Anyway, so very valuable for anyone interested in learning something about Japanese cooking. Um, thank you, Tom, for writing in that information. Uh another uh interesting uh piece of uh little tidbit comes from Steve Crandall via the Wall Street Journal. Uh they have an article called Scooped, and here's something I'd never heard of.
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+[14:21] Fracking. Have you heard of fracking before? No. I mean, other than the I'm gonna okay. Yes, I have heard of fracking from Battlestar Galactica.
+
+[14:28] Yes, I have seen the new Battlestar Galactica thing. But I hadn't heard of fracking the uh the term, and uh fracking is basically hydraulic fracturing. So what you do is you're drilling for uh oil or whatever, you drill a pipe way the hell down into whatever you're gonna do, and then you put a huge pressure on it to fracture the rock under there, and then you pump in uh junk like sand or whatever to allow whatever you're trying to get, oil, to filter through that, and you get it. It's a way of getting more oil or water or whatever out of it, but a lot of people are pissed off about it because it can, you know, pump poison into the aquifer, stuff like that. You know, anyway.
+
+[15:04] So, I will read the Wall Street Journal thing because it has to do with guargum, guargum. Fracking has a new victim, ice cream. Oh, oh, I was just handed by by j by Jack a no frack button. Jack, I didn't realize that we were uh we were uh an anti-fracking. Well, it doesn't represent my opinion.
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+[15:21] Somebody left that here. Oh, so in other words, some of our hosts and our guests are anti-frack folk. Correct. Yeah. Hmm.
+
+[15:27] Okay. Well, apparently they're fra this is anti-frack button from the catskill citizens.org. Uh so presumably there's some fracking, whole lot of fracking going on up in the cat skills. Presumably for water and not for oil. Anyway, uh, fracking has a new victim, ice cream.
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+[15:44] Hydraulic fracting, this uh fracturing, the sometimes controversial oil and gas drilling method, is causing tremors in a small but vital corner of the food industry. This is I'm reading verbatim for the Wall Street Journal. Glargum, produced mainly in India, helps thicken foods ranging from ketchup to ice cream. And the problem is it's also mighty useful in fracking fluid. Fracking fluid is the fluid that they pump pump pump into the uh into these places to actually cause the pressure to fracture them.
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+[16:07] With the surge in fracking, demar uh demand for guar gum has rocketed. Having often languished under 50 cents per pound, guar gum has recently changed hands at over three dollars. Uh and so this is gonna cause problems because they use a lot of guar in ice cream. And the reason they use guar is because guar is cheap. Uh the guar is from a seed and it's very similar to another product called locust bean gum.
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+[16:33] Locust bean gum is actually for a lot of applications better, but uh because locust bean gum doesn't have a kind of taste, and most guar is kind of crappy tasting, it tastes kind of crap. It has a beanie, it's called a beanie taste, kind of like eating uh black-eyed pea flour, if you've ever done that. I don't know, I don't know why you would. I have many times. But anyway, uh so uh they you know, TIC gums, the good people from TIC gums make a something called flavor free guar, which is awesome.
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+[16:58] And guar and uh gel-an and other hydrocolloid is what we use to make the stretchy ice cream that I like so well. Uh but guar has been cheap, so if guar prices go up, good for the poor sons of guns that have to sit there and harvest guar. You know what I mean? Good for them. You know, if we have to pay like, you know, a nickel more for our ice cream.
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+[17:16] First of all, three dollars a pound, let's put this in perspective, what three dollars a pound means for uh guar. So you're gonna have well under, well under a half, one half of one percent of uh guar in your ice cream, okay? So we're talking that uh, you know, a minuscule amount cost wise increase in uh your ice cream. So if all of a sudden a bunch of people uh in the oil industry, and I'm not saying I'm not pro frac, not pro-frat here, but uh it, you know, i if some poor sucker in India gets more for their guar seeds as a result of this, God bless them. I'll pay the extra five tenths of a penny for my ice cream.
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+[18:01] Does this make any sense, Nastasha? Yes. Yeah, anyway. All right. GWAR!
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+[18:05] All right. Uh guar, it yeah, I like war. I mean, it's it's interesting. Um our good friend Paul Adams from Popular Science. He uh writes mainly for their online, but I think he's gonna be doing something in the magazine as well.
+
+[18:17] Uh he did a nice write-up of the Glenn Livitt uh experiment I did in New Orleans where I was separate separating Glenn Livitt Scotch into uh oak and and spirits, and yeah, you can read about it on PopScience.com. Uh anyway, he writes in that popular science is doing some challenges, and uh maybe some of our readers are interested in it so the idea is is that uh some knucklehead, and the the website is uh innocentive.com, inocentive, C-E-N-T-A, like like innovation incentive, indocentive.com. So they basically offer an award, and the idea is that any knucklehead who wants to can write in and uh you know propose a solution to the problems, and if you win, you get either $10,000 or a chunk of that $10,000, and the guaranteed minimum uh the guaranteed minimum like maximum how am I gonna put this? So the the there will be someone who gets at least five thousand dollars. They might get the full ten thousand and they are gonna give ten thousand dollars away.
+
+[19:12] Make sense now? Yeah. Alright, so this one here is uh, and this one, by the way, is the one he sent us, already has three hundred and seventy-three people who have signed up with solutions. Most of them I'm sure suck. Oh, come on.
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+[19:25] Oh, come on. Most things in the world are bad, so why wouldn't most of the solutions to this problem be bad? The problem is, over time, low fat batter for baked products sticks to the baking surface of aluminum baking pans. No duh. Right?
+
+[19:39] Uh I I didn't mean it that way. The stuck batter burns and must be removed from the baking surface. The seeker, that's the company here, is looking for creative ideas for reducing either the adhesion of batter to the baking service or for improving the speed and efficiency of the cleaning process, and more information is available from their challenge description. And so basically, they want you to come up with a new release agent or a nonstick baking service or a new way of cleaning, but you only have a couple more days to solve that problem. Presumably they're gonna have more of these.
+
+[20:05] I have a solution. But add some freaking fat to the batter. You know what I mean? Add some freaking fat. What is the problem with having a little fat?
+
+[20:13] Here's the thing, right? What? You're gonna help them out. No, they're not gonna add fat to it because they want to make a low fat product, and therein lies their problem. Therein lies the problem.
+
+[20:25] Look, why is a waffle batter different from a pancake batter? Hint. It has more fat in it so that you can get it off of the waffle iron, right? Uh when you have fat in these things, right? Typically, if you're a normal human being and you're not paying attention to what's going on, you eat slightly less of it and you're slightly more satisfied because there's more fat in it and you get more sated.
+
+[20:47] The idea that you I mean, like, you know what I'm saying? I'm not saying like have your baked goods swim swimming in grease like a Popeye's biscuit, which are also delicious, even though that you don't like Popeye's biscuits? I don't like biscuits. You don't like biscuits? Jack, help me out here.
+
+[21:01] You don't like biscuits? People. People! This is what I'm dealing with that. They don't like biscuits.
+
+[21:08] Yeah, you know what else, Jack? Like, this is interesting. She'll like later on, she won't say it on the air, but she'll be like, it's because I'm so discriminating. What? What?
+
+[21:14] Do you say things like I don't like peanuts because I have a more discriminating palate? No, it's not that I can't discriminate a peanut. It's that they're delicious. Biscuits are delicious. We need to talk about this for a minute.
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+[21:25] Like, even if it even if I can't answer all the questions, what is it you don't like about a biscuit? I don't like how how dry and flaky they are. Well, why don't you put butter on the biscuit? No, I still I just I really don't like biscuits. I like bread.
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+[21:45] I also like bread. I don't like biscuits. I see here's another thing. This is hard tack. It's nothing like hard tack.
+
+[21:52] Hard tack is a form of biscuit similar to a beaten biscuit, which is nowhere near like the standard biscuit that we eat. First of all, there are fluffy biscuits and there are flaky biscuits. And uh a huge range in between depending on uh on the hydration ratio and how how they're mixed and how they're formed. Okay. So let's just start there.
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+[22:11] And uh and then like this is the kind of a classic thing that I don't understand. And and so, like, you know, if anyone ever, you know, uh tries to analyze uh like the relate the working relationship here, here's what I don't get. I don't like biscuits because I like bread. What she leaves off is like uh uh an implicit instead. Like I like bread instead of biscuits.
+
+[22:32] I can have in a single meal, I would consume several slices of bread, and then were I handed a biscuit, I would also consume several biscuits. Jack, back me up on this. I uh he doesn't want to get in. He doesn't want to get into it. Anyway, don't like biscuits.
+
+[22:46] Don't like biscuits. I love biscuits. Yeah, biscuits are good. I like a flaky biscuit. Especially the biscuits at Roberta's.
+
+[22:52] Uh, they are good. Seriously, that's not even promotion. They're just good biscuits. I can't remember. Do they do uh a flaky or a little bit?
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+[22:58] We'll have to give you guys we'll get you two biscuits. Yeah, please. That'd be great. And we'll talk about them next time. Anyway, uh my saying is just add a little bit of fat to your baked goods and cook it a little bit less.
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+[23:10] Whether it's uh a waffle or or some sort of you know, you're not gonna cook biscuit in an iron, obviously. Like maybe it's cornbread or something, and they're trying to re reduce the amount of fat in a cornbread. Absurd. Absurd. Absurd.
+
+[23:23] Okay. Uh not really. Look, I'm sure there's many people who think it's a good idea to reduce the fat in their baked goods. I just happen to think they're wrong. They are wrong.
+
+[23:31] Yeah. Just eat less. Just eat less. Right. Just eat less and be more satisfied with a better product.
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+[23:38] Right? Right. Although apparently this is marketing that hasn't worked. People just eat, then they're like, oh, it's okay to eat high fat, so they just eat more of it. Stupid.
+
+[23:47] By the way, uh there we spoke to a person uh this last week named Pat Brown. And uh Pat Brown is a doctor and it is uh has a a company out in um in the San Francisco Bay Area, and he's interested in making uh basically not meat analogs, but things that someone would choose over meat. In other words, that they they they they are a viable main source of protein that are built not just as a protein that you know has crap sprayed on it that kind of resembles meat, but actually engineered from the ground up to be delicious, such that someone who is a meat eater would choose it based on its taste and its r inherent uh low cost over uh meat. What do you think? Okay.
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+[24:40] Anyway, gonna next time I'm out in the San Francisco Bay area, I'm gonna I'm gonna visit him. But he's the only person I've spoken to who wants to do plant-based, and he has a kind of an interesting philosophy. He wants to put all uh meat and dairy farmers literally he'll say this, he wants to put them out of business. He's like, he's like, you know, to make an omelet, you gotta crack a few eggs. The world's gonna be around for a long time, and these guys are hurting the planet, so even if it hurts them right now, you know, you know, you can't you can't help out someone now at the expense of killing your grandkids, which is basically vegetarian?
+
+[25:11] Yes, he's a vegetarian. But he doesn't necessarily want he doesn't want to make he doesn't want to beat you over the head and have you become a vegetarian because he's a vegetarian. He wants you to buy this uh this plant-based food because it's so freaking delicious and so cheap that it's what you want to do. See what I'm saying? Yeah.
+
+[25:29] So it's an interesting reversal, and he seems like an interesting guy. I can't wait to go out there and meet him. Okay. Uh have a question in from Priscilla Andrews regarding transglutaminase noodles. And I'm gonna have to apologize in advance, Priscilla.
+
+[25:44] I don't have the answer for you right now. But the question is, what is the starting ratio in using meat glue and gelatin to glue fruits and vegetables together? Any help is appreciated. Okay, so what we're talking about here is um using transglutaminase, meat glue, which is an enzyme that uh bonds proteins together to make gelatin into something that won't melt when it's reheated. So this is a technique that uh was developed by my brother-in-law, Wiley Dufresne of WD-50 restaurant, where what you do is you take gelatin, not right now, normally gelatin, when you heat it, uh, it melts, and when uh it when it cools down again, it turns back into a gel.
+
+[26:25] If you take transglutaminase and mix it in with the gelatin, the gelatin cross-links, and now it no longer melts again. So it sets and never again will it melt. And so Wiley uses this technique to um basically uh make noodles out of anything. So quinoa, peas, uh peanut butter, things that you can't normally glue together, uh, or can't normally make a sheet or a noodle out of, he can make one out of that can be fried, uh, tossed like a pasta, uh, anything. So basically the trick with it is, and I would start with about one percent trans.
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+[27:04] I'm just making this up because I don't have the recipe in front of me, and Hervé Malivere, who runs the who runs the tech stuff when I'm not at the s at the French culinary, he has the recipe because Wiley came and demoed it once, and I just keep on forgetting to write it down. But I would best it bet it's somewhere about one percent transglutaminase, not activa RM, which is meat glue plus uh casein, milk protein, but activa Ti, which is just the meat glue. And the reason is is because you want uh gelatin to link to other gelatin. If gelatin links to a casein molecule, that doesn't increase the gel strength. Okay.
+
+[27:41] And also, if you're gluing together a veg or something that has a lot of protein in it, right, like peanut butter or something, you don't want the gelatin bonding to the protein from your product either. So uh what you what you want to do, and uh John McGee, Harold's son, who's one of the TAs in the lecture series up at Harvard, the food lecture series, which I'm gonna be doing with Harold uh on September what? 6th and 8th. 6 and 8th, and there's a public lecture for those as well, right? Yeah, I think there's a public lecture in the evening uh after the students go there.
+
+[28:13] Uh so his son uh did like a couple days style with Wiley to figure out this problem of what's the best way to do it. Uh and of course I forgot. But basically, what you do is is you make a paste, you dehydrate it to get a lot of the water out. You don't want it to be too watery. Then you make a gel slurry and use however much gelatin you would normally use to set what you're doing.
+
+[28:32] I think that's a good starting point, or maybe a little more. Uh while it's warm but not hot, the gel, uh, the gelatin. Mix in transglutaminase, uh activa Ti, right? Let it sit for several minutes, start crosslinking, you know, while it's warm, and then uh whisk that together uh with your uh product, sheet it out, and let it sit overnight in the fridge, at which point it should be set. But I wish I had a better information for the starting ratios.
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+[28:58] Alright, so we're gonna take one more commercial break and come back and answer some questions. Call in your questions to 718 4972128. That's 718-497-2128. Cooking issues! That's a pretty good Dave impression.
+
+[29:09] Thank you. I thought our little wild time had just become. I guess you kinda scared yourself. You turn wrong. But if you have a change of heart.
+
+[30:09] Ricky don't lose that number. You don't wanna call nobody else. Send it off in a letter to your cell. Ricky don't lose that number. It's the only one you want.
+
+[30:35] Uh Jack and Nastasha making fun of me for not being able to remember the dang number of the radio station and furthermore making fun of me for the earlier one, the Iron to ride my bicycle for my constant bike problems here in the city. Thanks, guys. Thanks. I appreciate the support. Yeah.
+
+[30:50] Alright. Caller, you're on the air. Hi Dave. Uh I have a question about gum Arabic and simple syrups. I'm in the New York area and I'm looking to pick some up.
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+[31:00] And also I would like to just know how to add it to simple syrup. Like a just, you know, one cup water, one cup sugar, how much to put in. Okay. So um it's interesting. We're gonna pick it up in if you want if you're in the New York City, if you're New York City, I believe uh Calustian's uh on Lexington in the 20s has it.
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+[31:20] Um if they don't have it, there's a place called Dual Specialty Shop down in uh where is it? First Avenue, Avenue A? Mm-hmm down near Death Co. The bar. Uh that's how I remember where it is.
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+[31:31] Okay, it's close to Death and Co. Uh and it's downstairs. They might have it. If not, there's plenty of mail order supplies uh for gum arabic, but one of those two places would be the first places that I would go in the city to get them. Get it.
+
+[31:43] Now gum arabic is very interesting because uh as a hydrocolloid, and you know hydrocolloids for those of you that don't know what the heck I'm talking about are kind of these new group of thickeners. Uh the what's interesting about it is most hydrocolloids are uh long uh linear chain molecules with a small number of backbones on it, right? Uh small number of little side units rather. Um the gum arabic is the only normal one other than uh amylopectin, which is the big bald starch molecule, uh uh that is ball-shaped, right? And so what that means for gum arabic is that you can have very high percentage gum arabic solutions that aren't too thick.
+
+[32:26] Right? So you can put a fairly high uh uh uh percentage of gum arabic into your solutions and still have them be portable fluid, right? The other cool thing about gum arabic is gum arabic has in it a protein that is is basically it comes with the gum and and originally it was considered an impurity but when you remove the gum the protein from the gum arabic the gum arabic doesn't work anymore uh to do what you want it to do. Because gum arabic isn't just a thickener although it is a bodying agent, right? And when you add a lot of it it can add a lot of body and viscosity to your syrup.
+
+[33:01] It's also uh an emulsifier so you can get flavors into things using it and and it's pretty cool because unlike other emulsifiers when it's diluted it doesn't break and that's why it used to be made for it used to be used uh to as an emulsifier for soda syrups. Um now they have other things that are, you know, not necessarily uh dependent upon the sedan to f for their sourcing. Uh but the and are cheaper. But it would that was one of its original uses. It's so it could probably also uh stabilize a head in a shake and drink or stabilize bubbles uh in in a shake and drink.
+
+[33:36] So it's very interesting. I don't happen to have any of the ratios in my head, but what I would do is put the gum arabic into uh the water first. Um it should dissolve I believe at room temperature, but you can heat it to speed it. It's not going to hurt it at all, right? I would try to powder the gum arabic as much as you can beforehand uh to speed the dissolution of it.
+
+[33:58] And uh then after that uh you know you could heat it, add the sugar to it and make the I would definitely do it that way not the other way around. I would add the gum arabic first and then add the uh sugar afterwards. Um and you can add you can add a fairly large amount but I would look into like any one of you know all the old references have it. I think maybe the imbibe uh the old you know the Dave Wendrich the first you know the imbibe book I think maybe has a couple recipes for it. But that that one's easy to Google I just don't have it in my head.
+
+[34:25] Alright thanks Dave. No problem. Good luck with it. Alright thank you. Alright.
+
+[34:31] So let's see what we're gonna go into now. D uh okay we have a question from E Papineau just wrote in wants to know about smoking tomatoes. Well I've never smoked a tomato. Yeah. Have you ever had a smoked tomato?
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+[34:45] I've had smoked tomato things. Yeah no I've never smoked a tomato. But in general when you're smoking something uh the rule is is that uh I mean I don't know you're gonna pick up color or not, but you're gonna want to get uh it's somewhat dry and tacky, not overly wet. You're obviously uh gonna want to peel the tomatoes uh uh or at very least kind of split them, but I would peel them and semi-desiccate them, like partially dry them first. Uh then after they're partially dry, then I would smoke them and then finish the drying out.
+
+[35:14] I mean, I wouldn't you know a tomato, when you're smoking something, uh smoking has certain kind of preservative effects and bacteriostatic effects and things like that. But really with a tomato, uh it's just it's got a huge water content. And so to preserve it, you're really gonna want to just reduce that water content. And so that's gonna be the main preservation technique. If you want the smoked flavor to pick up, you don't want it too heavy or to become acrid.
+
+[35:37] I would just make sure that they're mostly, you know, maybe uh two-thirds to three quarters dry, then smoke them until they pick up the flavor that you want, and then continue your dehydration uh at a low temperature uh so you don't alter the flavor too much from that point out. That seems like good advice, right? Yes. The rare piece of good advice. Okay.
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+[35:58] Like that name. Botkin? Botkin, like that. Uh Derek Bodkin uh writes in uh about uh rice flour. You know, I have botkins in my family.
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+[36:08] Really? Yes. Anyway. Uh Derek Bodkin writes in on uh rice flour. Hi everyone, another quick question.
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+[36:15] I've got a bunch of rice flour. What sort of cool things can I do with it? Since it lacks gluten, right? I'd imagine baking with it would be tricky. How about a roux?
+
+[36:24] All right, well, interesting you should say. There's no such thing as just rice flour, right? I mean, there is, it's labeled that way. But basically, rice flour breaks down into two separate kinds of things. There's glutinous rice flour, aka sweet rice flour, aka waxy rice flour, aka sticky rice flour, right?
+
+[36:43] And that's rice flour that's made from what they call glutinous rice. And what glutinous rice is, it has no gluten, but it's very high, very low in amylose, the uh long-chain um starch molecules I told you before, and extremely high, like 100% amylopectin. And uh what those are what that kind of flour is great for is making mochi. And mochi, uh, you know, you don't have to make it into flour. I've made I can make mochi from just from sticky rice, which is kind of the cool way to do it, right?
+
+[37:12] And you you know the really cool way to do it is to get sumo wrestler dudes in loincloths beating it with mallets after you cook it. That's the real cool way to make mochi. But most of us are just gonna buy uh glutinous rice flour or mochi flour, they sell. If you really want the high grade stuff, buy stuff called mochi flour. And you mix it, and the cool thing is is it's got this dense flavor, but you can grill it or fry it, and it puffs up like a lunatic.
+
+[37:33] Amylipein is fantastic at puffing. Whether or not it's a uh, you know, semi-dried and then it puffs like a puff snack, or whether or not it's just like in a donut form. If you ever had a mochi donut, like Japanese mochi's donut, great. Anyway, so that's one form of uh rice flour. Uh and then the other one is you know, rice flour that has a certain amount of um uh amylose in it.
+
+[37:55] Now, uh, and that's what you use for most other kind of cooking applications. So, in terms of uh thickening for making a roux, right? So roux we typically think of uh with wheat flour. Now, uh wheat flour is kind of the weakest of the flours in terms of thickening. Rice is rice flour is gonna thicken a little bit more than wheat flour, corn a little bit more than rice, arrowroot a little bit more than corn, and potato the most uh starch.
+
+[38:20] The problem with something like potato starch, and the reason we don't use it more often is even though it makes things super thick, as you cook it, it breaks down very quickly, right? Cornstarch also has problems because it gets thick really real fast and it's gonna stay thick, but when it cools down, it sets up a lot harder than when it was hot. Whereas wheat starch is a little less finicky that way than corn. But rice is kind of in between the corn and the wheat and will work fine for a roux, especially if you want to do something uh that's gluten-free, if that's interested, uh interesting to you. Um it should work uh just fine.
+
+[38:52] Uh it's also used a lot in uh deep frying as either uh a portion of your battery or as uh uh the dusting beforehand. The reason it's used is because it doesn't have any gluten. It makes things very crispy without making them hard, right? Because it doesn't have the kind of the protein that forms together you get from a wheat flour. So adding a certain amount of white rice, you know, neutral white rice flour to a batter recipe is going to increase the crispy crunchiness, but not the hardness of the batter.
+
+[39:22] So Heston Blumenthal uses it in his um in his uh fish and chips recipe. Uh a lot of Thai recipes have it, and you can make actually uh almost like puffed uh crispy snacks just by making a rice batter and fr and frying it, and it's good as a garnish. I mean, I wouldn't necessarily eat it um on on its own. In bread baking, you can add a certain amount to bread to round out the wheat flour and reduce the amount of wheat in there slightly, although I don't really see the point in that. Uh, but it is used as a dusting for almost like an anti-stick along with flour, uh, in the same way that cornmeal is used for.
+
+[39:56] So it can be used that way. Uh another interesting thing you might want to look at is something that I used to make like a long time ago. When I was rating my mom's cookbooks, uh, one of the first cookbooks I rated, I started making bread uh in college in a uh they used uh General Electric or Westinghouse, I forget, used to sell turkey ovens, and they're basically like large crock pots that you cook turkeys in for Thanksgiving. And in the 50s and 60s, these were used because that you wanted to be able to use your oven for something else and cook your turkey uh on your countertop. And it kind of fell out of popularity, probably because they probably don't make a good turkey.
+
+[40:29] I don't know, I never cooked a turkey one. But I picked one up for about two bucks uh at a thrift shop when I was in college and used it to bake bread in my dorm room. And one of the first books I stole from my mom was her 1977 copy of the Sunset Bed Break uh bread baking uh book, and uh which at the time I thought was a pretty good book. And uh they had something in it called Dutch Crunch, which is a bread coating, uh bread treat trust treatment that I've never seen really around, but I'm sure people still make it, but it's really cool, and it's a rice flour trick. So here's what you do.
+
+[41:01] You take, and I'm sorry it's in tablespoons, but I just wrote it down this morning from the book. You one and a half tablespoon sugar. I still kept the book. I stole it, you know, 20 change years ago, more than 20 years ago, and I still have it. Anyway, uh 1.5 tablespoon sugar, four pac four packs of yeast, right?
+
+[41:17] Which is a lot. Pay attention to that, four packs, half teaspoon salt, three-quarters cup rice flour, two teaspoons of oil, and uh basically a half to two-thirds cup warm water. You let it stir it, let it rise for 30 minutes, and you paint it on your bread before you bake it, and it gets this like intensely thick, crunchy, like funny looking but delicious crust crust uh called Dutch Crunch. So try that out, Derek, and tell me how it works. Alright, so have an interesting, and this is one of the reasons I was late because this is what I was uh researching, and time just ran away from me.
+
+[41:51] Hastings from the Underground Bar, which is a portion of the Underground Food Collective, uh writes in about cherry pits. We're processing what's essentially a pallet's worth of cherries at our prep kitchen right now, and I'm sitting on an insane quantity of cherry pits. We've made delicious demonstration batches of cherry pit amaretto with brandy and a relatively high concentration of cherry pits. But I'm generally aware of the risks associated with the pits of stone fruit and haven't been able to find a concrete source uh that conclusively outlines how they can be manipulated or processed to eliminate that risk pot prior to infusion. Varying sources say roasting or blanching the pits takes care of the problem.
+
+[42:26] I assume if a method works for one variety of stone pits, it would be applicable to the others as well. Could I weigh in on this? Earlier this week, Hastings emailed Darcy O'Neill to ask the same question because Darcy had a recipe for infused maraschino liqueur that involved the pits of the beraschino cherry. They're not really whatever the cherries are called. Anyway, the uh cherry, cherry pits.
+
+[42:45] It's an aside uh uh in a larger post on preserving cocktail cherries. The problem is the amaretto that uh Hastings is making and some of the other applications they've been toying with involve pit concentrations that are twenty to one hundred times greater than the recipe Darcy referenced. Okay, Darcy O'Neill, for those of you not uh do don't know cocktail blogs, uh, is one of the great uh like scientific technical uh drink and cocktail writers, wrote a book called uh Fix the Pumps, which is extremely influential over the last year and a half uh or two years, I forget how long ago it came out, basically reviving uh old soda traditions, and is in fact is selling products uh that have been kind of extinct for a while, including lactart, which is uh, you know, uh uh lactic acid-based uh acidifier for use in sodas, and uh uh acid phosphates, which is uh phosphoric acid-based uh soda acidifiers. So he's selling these things, and that book uh extremely, extremely influential in the comeback of interesting sodas. I mean, people have been working on interesting sodas for a while, but kind of without a lot of basis.
+
+[43:53] And he's providing a lot of basis and contextualizing of the old recipes for uh kind of modern people. So uh underred by JQ public, but very influential among the kind of the cocktail and drink thinking crowd. Fix the pumps. Anyway, so uh Darcy wrote back to um, and by the way, in case you don't know what's going on, stone fruits contain um two different things, many different things, but two things that people are worried about amygdalin, uh, which basically breaks down into cyanide, which is why, and that's why you know cyanide smells like uh burnt almonds, you don't want too much. Anyway, amygdalene and a lesser quantity of something called prunicine, which is, you know, also breaks down into cyanide.
+
+[44:32] So uh Darcy wrote back to Hastings. The problem with amygdalene and the stone and pits uh is that the form in there, which is what's called a glycoside, which is a sugar bound to the uh cyanide, right? Uh is only released when it encounters specific digestive enzymes which are found in our digestive systems. Uh and Darcy's had some conversations with sugar syrup companies that make uh syrups from fruit stones and say that there aren't any cyan there isn't any cyanide in their product. And the problem with that method, Darcy says is Darcy says is that they're actually looking for cyanide and not for the amygdalene, which is what's going to get you when you when you do it.
+
+[45:06] Uh but he says that small amounts of pits aren't gonna hurt you, but Hastings is pointing out what the hell, I'm using 20 to 100 times what you use. Am I gonna die or not? Well, it's a very interesting question, Hastings. I don't know if you're going to die. Here's what happens.
+
+[45:20] When you eat a whole bunch of products with amygdalin in it, like uh apricot kernels or the classic one, or uh uh pits from cherries, etc. Uh the amygdalene in it breaks down and forms cyanide, uh, you know, uh cyanide, uh HCN, you know, hydrocyanic acid or whatever, and benzaldehyde. Benzaldehyde is what gives you the taste that you want, right? And it's done via an enzymatic reaction. Now, there is uh enzyme in the pit.
+
+[45:46] So, what you want to do, the way they get rid of this is you grind, you don't roast it. Roasting, I've you know, peace some people say roasting gets rid of uh gets rid of it. Roasting's gonna get rid of any free cyanide in the pit, but isn't gonna degrade the amygdalene at all. So as soon as you eat it, you're still gonna have it. What I would do, and what everyone does uh commercially is they break it, they grind up the seeds roughly, then they soak them in water for a period of one to three days.
+
+[46:13] What's happening there is cyanide, uh free the free cyanide things are very soluble in water, whereas the uh the benzaldehyde, which is the aroma and the flavor you want, is not. Furthermore, uh enzyme, it's it's soluble, but not that much. Um enzymes are in the pit, and when you break it up, those enzymes are gonna go to work on the amygdalene and break it down into the uh the cyan free cyanide stuff and the stuff with the flavor, the benzaldehyde. So what you then do is you soak it for a couple of days, then you drain it and you cook it. And when you cook it, any free cyanide is extremely volatile and will boil off because the cyanide, the stuff that's gonna kill you, boils off at like 78 Fahrenheit.
+
+[46:53] You know, obviously leave the lid off the pan and don't breathe in the vapors. Uh and then what's left over should be fairly uh amygdalin free and fairly cyanide free. That said, I can't give you any numbers that are gonna be 100% uh safe. Um it's kind of a tough thing. I can't I can't really give you a uh a number and say that you won't die, but that is the way things are, things are reduced.
+
+[47:16] You can further reduce the amount of uh amygdala stuff through uh fermentation, but you have to get a specific strain of yeast, the one that does tempeh works or specific bacteria, specific funguses, they work like t tempeh fermentation works and certain other things, but don't count on it. Um, so what do you what do you think, man? Yeah, yeah. Yeah. Interesting.
+
+[47:37] I saw another uh article while I was researching this called Why Are So Many Plants cyanogenic? Interesting question, right? Uh and I didn't know so many were. But it turns out that a disproportionate number of our food plants uh have these glycosides, these sugar bound with uh cyanide uh and other stuff uh in them. And the theory of this paper, why are so many plants cyanogenic is that um these plants don't get eaten by uh animals as much, and but humans are good at figuring out how to not get poisoned by them, and so we tend to eat them, and that's why a disproportionate number of these products are eaten by people.
+
+[48:15] And um some large number uh percentage uh have certain stuff in them. So uh among them, wheat and maize have a small amount, I guess, in the sprouts to stop the sprouts from getting eaten. But sorghum, the sprouts, the seeds are fine, but the sprouts have huge amounts of it in it, and so sorghum sprouts are poisonous unless you cook the hell out of them. And I always knew sprouts were poisonous, right? It's just further confirmation that sprouts, she is a poison, right?
+
+[48:44] Anyway, so I hope this has been somewhat useful. And here's what we're gonna round out with today. John Larry writes in and says, uh, my name is John Larry. I would like to know if you have an old pressure cooker. My god, do I have old pressure cookers, right, Nastasha?
+
+[48:57] Yeah, you do. Yeah, we do. Uh available that I'm looking for less expensive ones than the ones that I have. Could you let me know the prices for old pressure cookers? And I'd be happy to pray by credit card.
+
+[49:07] Well, John, pay by credit card. Yeah. See, I thought that was spam. It's not spam. No one writes a letter asking for a used pressure cooker that's spam.
+
+[49:16] It was a dick it was the words you used that made me think. Pressure cooker or credit card. Which was anyways. Uh John. Uh fellow person with two last names like myself.
+
+[49:28] Uh two first names rather. Why? Because your mom couldn't afford. My mom couldn't afford a last name, so I've got two first ones. Boom.
+
+[49:34] Anyway, so uh while we are not in the business of selling used pressure cookers. I do agree that pressure cookers cost quite a bit of money. Uh you know, uh the pressure cooker that I use every day costs well over 200 bucks. You can get a decent pressure cooker or figure workarounds for pressure cookers. I'm not gonna tell you to modify a pressure cooker like I did on the blog last week.
+
+[49:56] Um, but uh, you know, you can get one for uh under a hundred dollars. I wouldn't recommend buying a used pressure cooker because the seals on it are probably about to go anyway, and you're gonna have to buy a new seal. Could be clogged up. It's just a world of headache. Go out there and research one of the cheaper uh pressure cookers.
+
+[50:12] I'm not gonna, you know, I'm not gonna push any any brands online. But uh yeah. Imagine can you imagine if we were like if we ever had a rummage sale, it would be crazy, right? Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[50:21] Anyways, we have one to raise some money. A rummage sale? The rummage sale. You don't want to rummage through my stuff. Anyways, uh today, tomorrow I'm flying out to Columbia.
+
+[50:30] We're gonna be doing a uh demon a demo in uh in Columbia, the country, uh, and in Bogota, who who's I can't pronounce properly, but I'm gonna be doing a variation on milk soup, on on Colombian milk soup. Uh, which should be interesting. Fly back for one day just to do this radio show. That's a lie. But I'm here though, right?
+
+[50:47] Yeah, you are here. Yeah, I'm here. I'll do that, and then I fly out, and then the next Tuesday, I'll be in Harvard. So I'm gonna try two weeks from now to do it f live from Harvard with McGee. It's not during the class time, is it?
+
+[50:58] The show? I don't think so. I think I'm gonna be away too. So I might be able to do it. Anyway, so I will have been, uh, next time I speak to you people, I will have been to South America for the very first time.
+
+[51:09] Cooking issues. Oh, you dare. Got me on this corner. And I don't know where I'm at. Supposed to meet my baby.
+
+[51:38] The following is a message from NOFA and Y. Do you dig local food? Love organic farmers? Do you crave to be part of a growing movement of consumers concerned with the state of our nation's food system? Then sign up today to take the NOFA and Y's Locavore Challenge this September.
+
+[51:54] Join 5,000 other New York Locavores that are hungry, active, and ready to change our food system. Learn more at www.ny locavore challenge.com.
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+[0:05] You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com, bringing you the freshest radio in Brooklyn since 2009. Here directly from chefs to farmers, artists to architects, authors to brewers, and everyone in between. Check out all of our shows on our website or by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. The following is a message from NOFA and Y. Do you dig local food?
+
+[0:28] Love organic farmers. Do you crave to be part of a growing movement of consumers concerned with the state of our nation's food system? Then sign up today to take the NOFA and Y's Locavore Challenge this September. Join 5,000 other New York Locavores that are hungry, active, and ready to change our food system. Learn more at www.nylocovore challenge.com.
+
+[1:04] Hello, and welcome to Cooking Issues. It's Dave Arnold, your host of Cookie Issue coming to you live from Bogota, Columbia. Calling all of your questions to the studio of Brooklyn at 718-497-2128 at 718 Born at 72128. Uh I was supposed to be doing cookie shoes today from Brooklyn, but uh due to the hurricane, which Nastasha apparently wasn't much of a big thing in our area anyway, my flight was canceled, and here I am in Bogota. Right.
+
+[1:37] Nothing happened down there, right? Nothing. You have a caller. I know you want to do it. Oh, and caller, you're on the air.
+
+[1:42] Hey Dave, how are you doing? It's Kevin from Virginia Beach. Hey. I got a question about um I got some calcium hydroxide flaked lime, and I was thinking about um different ways to use it since I got a lot of it. And I was thinking maybe you could use it for spherification, but I'm concerned about it interacting with sodium alginate and producing lye and if that would be a problem.
+
+[1:59] I was wondering if you have any experience with that. Uh well let me think here. No, I don't think it'll do that because um no, I don't think it'll do that. Because you know, you uh you add salt all of this all all the time to uh uh you know you add salt all the time to uh to things that have calcium hydroxide in them in it. I mean cal um yeah, calcium hydroxide in it's not a problem.
+
+[2:23] So, you know, in order to form the lye you'd need to you need to start with sodium and then have the uh hydroxide already attached to it and and then put it in. You're starting with calcium hydroxide, which is much weaker, so it's not it's not gonna be not gonna be an issue. Think about it this way. If you add um pure lye and pure uh hydrochloric acid, right? You don't retain the powers of those two things, you just end up with salt and water.
+
+[2:47] You know what I mean? Right, yeah. And do you think it would taste okay? Uh okay, so those are two separate questions. Uh uh, you know, look, it can't it look, it can't taste worse than calcium uh calcium chloride does.
+
+[3:05] Calcium chloride's horrible. But I think the real problem with it is that calcium uh hydroxide has a a very low solubility. So I don't think that you would uh necessarily get enough calcium in there to have it uh set properly. I mean it's interesting, I've never tried it. Um you you know, calcium hydroxide um saturates very quickly.
+
+[3:25] So typically you act if you're gonna make something like a soaking solution for uh bananas like Thai style, you can like s mix it with uh, you know, water, let it settle out to the bottom, pour the stuff off up the top, and that's basically saturated uh calcium hydroxide. Yeah, that's what I think. Water and what? And what and it tastes like it tastes like uh cement to me. Um I don't know whether that will set algern it or not.
+
+[3:50] Um you know you can have to see you just have to drop a couple it'd be easy to test. You just have to drop a couple of uh pearls into it uh and see whether it sets it. Um but you know you could try it'd be interesting. Let us know it let us know what happens. I mean we use it for uh obviously for niximalizing corn it's the primary thing we use it for.
+
+[4:09] Uh if you were here in Columbia you could chew it with cocoa leaves to release the uh alkaloids although I'm not necessarily advocating that um you can use it to harden vegetables. Uh you can use it to uh well keep things uh firm while preserving the color when you're cooking them. It's really it's good stuff, you know. Yep, okay, awesome. I'll give this out and I'll let you know.
+
+[4:32] Alright thanks a lot. Alright thank you. Uh uh so Columbia is Columbia has some amazing fruits, Nastasha. I think any we're gonna say that. Yeah, amazing fruits.
+
+[4:47] In fact one of the reasons I wanted to come down here was to taste all the fruits and uh we went out partying after one of the events with uh the ambassador to Columbia from the United States and uh I was like, hey come on, you know, any week slip some of those fruits in the bag, you know and no he's like no way. There's no way. There's no way we can get the fruits uh up in uh up in New York and shipped into the United States and it's a shame. They got the one of the main fruits over here that they got that I really like it called uh Lulo and l it it's hard to describe these damn things, but let me put it this way. If you were gonna come open a cocktail bar down here in Bogota, uh you could do some pretty serious drinks.
+
+[5:30] This Lulo drink like has some natural hydrocolor in it. I don't know, and it forms a it forms a head almost like you were shaking with an egg white. Pretty cool stuff. Pretty cool stuff. Uh, if we have time later, I'll just go down some of the crazier uh fruits uh that we had uh so let us get to some email questions.
+
+[5:50] Boop boop boop. Okay. Andrew writes in and he says, uh Andrew Switzer, dear Dave, as a former career barista uh espresso, this is a question about espresso, uh career uh Barista. I'm wondering if you can share more info on your home espresso setup. I know some of the various requirements to have a professional home machine, but I need help with the practical how to and set up.
+
+[6:11] Also, if it seems to be too big a job for my apartment, do you have any advice for achieving foaming milk for coffee lattes at home? My wish is a stove top steaming device capable of achieving microfoam at 140 with a traditional metal steam one. Thanks a bunch. Alright, uh, Andrew, here's the deal. I've had uh in my life two professional espresso machines uh and two different weird kind of home uh machines.
+
+[6:36] Um the professional machine is the way to go. If you're independently wealthy, then and you have a lot of space, then uh purchase like a two-group uh espresso machine uh and install it in your house. Here are the problems. Uh two group espresso machine, and I bought one used at an auction. Uh, you know, I went into it was a uh uh this place was shut down as a result of uh drug activity in um in you know, like in the upper hundreds in Manhattan on Broadway.
+
+[7:03] It was a restaurant. And they locked the restaurant shut. And uh when they reopened it a year later, all the food was rotting, and so no one else wanted to be in that auction but me. I was the only person who was willing to stomach the stench of this place to go in and purchase equipment. So I got a um a fairly you know nice two group ranchillo espresso machine uh for almost nothing.
+
+[7:26] Of course I then had to disassemble it and boil all the parts to get out all the nasty stuff that had accumulated and like animals and made their houses whatever anyway. So I got it to work. Uh problem with these larger machines is the larger machines uh take a lot of electricity. So that one required like a big uh 220 circuit. Um the good news is is well that makes better espresso than the equivalent one group machine and the reason is is that in traditional uh espresso machines they use the the mass of the equipment to provide um the stability the temperature stability and also the ability to have like huge amounts of steam on demand.
+
+[8:03] So that machine even you know made better espresso than the single group professional machine that I have now which is a La San Marco. The problem is I didn't have two twenty, I wasn't able to install it. So if you don't have two twenty or if you don't have a lot of electricity you can get a commercial one group machine that'll run off of one ten. And if you have a lot of money you can buy very temperature stable one group machines uh that run off of one ten uh but they're very expensive uh the professional ones like the dual boiler or any of these ones have very accurate temperature control. Very expensive.
+
+[8:36] Um so you have to make a choice of how much electricity you're gonna have. Secondly you have to make sure that the coffee machine can live near a sink. Uh so what you do is is you put it near a sink um you put a uh I'll go under where the where your sink line is, the line in, go to your cold water tap, install a filter on your cold water, you know, unscrew it, put in a T where the uh water comes in, install uh another branch off of that, which is very simple. This is all Home Depot, like, you know, one hour problems, no big deal. Install a water filter on it.
+
+[9:06] Make sure you put a shut off valve beforehand so you can change the water filter without everything going wrong. You then under the sink there, place the pump for your espresso machine if you have an external pump and most Pro machines have an external pump, you put it down there, and then you run um you run the power wire to the uh to the pump and the uh drain and the um sorry the uh the input line in right up and then what's really good is to drill an extra large hole by the way you're drilling a hole in your counter uh did I mention this you're drilling a hole in your counter uh behind the espresso machine that can make it into uh underneath your sink uh then you want to install a drain hose which they're not very big uh and then tap that into um you know it the equivalent of a uh of a uh basically a like a disposal or washing machine a washing machine drain uh that goes into the thing you want to plug it into another one of those so that your machine uh so your espresso machine can drain uh and make sure that your espresso machine is always above the level of your sink so you can't uh you know have backups uh um on onto the floor out of your espresso machine if your drain clogs up uh and that's basically it I mean uh it's it you know it sounds like it's a lot but you know if you have a drill and you can go uh drill in uh you're set uh you know then you want to make sure you have a place that you can knock out espresso grounds so you're gonna want to uh you know, either to take a a small you know you can buy one or you can make a knock a knockout knockbox uh and it's helpful to have a trash can nearby. Uh but that's it it. It's pretty simple. Um they um you know as as regards if you're not going to get a professional machine uh you know I haven't used anything that does a very good steaming job uh that wasn't a uh pro machine um because you know it's just you it can be done.
+
+[10:56] I mean if you go to coffee geek dot com those people will sit around and make amazing uh foam with uh home machines but it's just you know they I think they they're always sucking wind a little bit because they don't have as much of a steam capacity as let's say even a single group uh one ten machine. Uh but that said you can do this all very cheaply uh if you scrounge around and you can have and let me tell you this it is extreme pleasure to just be able to use a freaking espresso machine like nature intended it which is having it plumbed into your water supply and um having it you know drain into your uh into your drain. Even if you don't have a commercial espresso machine you can usually plumb them by putting a uh a level sensor and a and a and a solenoid valve to uh allow you to put high pressure from your mean on mains uh which is like forty fifty psi put that into a gravity fed container and espresso machine. So there you have it. Hey Nastasha did you know that Bogota is over eight thousand feet high and I haven't had to do this much talking in a row on a phone and I'm actually feeling winded from the altitude.
+
+[12:09] Wow wow more than more than when you ride your bike here and come in. What'd you say? I said you feel more out of breath than when you arrive here after you've ridden your bike in Brooklyn. Uh well I guess that's true, but you can't let yourself mellow out when you're uh when you're in Bogota, there's no there's no mellowing out. The weird thing is that I didn't feel I haven't felt that windy the whole week.
+
+[12:31] It's just uh I guess it's just uh because of uh the the talking high speed because when I was doing my demonstration here, it's the first time like I said it had to be uh done in Spanish. And so it's weird having to constantly stop and like give like three cents, his weight give three cents, his late give three sentences. Doesn't it's uh very strange. Yeah. Very very, very strange.
+
+[12:51] All right. Uh Jason Yi writes in a question on eggs. So I know Dave's done quite a bit on low temperature egg cooking, including the chart recently published in uh David Chang's Lucky Peace magazine, which that we've used that chart. How many times have we used that chart, Nastasha? Many.
+
+[13:06] Harvard uses it too. Who? Harvard. Yeah, Harvard's using it. There's some popular science one.
+
+[13:12] That that chart is like all over all over the place. Anyway. But I was wondering if you guys had any tips for other eggs, quail, ducks, etcetera. I'm assuming times would need to be adjusted for different egg sizes, but what about the composition of eggs? Are substances and different eggs different?
+
+[13:26] And if they're the same as chicken eggs, is the ratio of substances the same? All right. Well, Jason, unfortunately I don't have uh or didn't until right before this happen uh have enough Wi Fi time to research the exact composition of what's going on in these eggs. I will say this. Chicken eggs and duck eggs are uh and quail eggs for that matter are different.
+
+[13:45] Um the the proteins in them are different. They're fairly similar, right? But they are uh different. And the reason I know this is because when you treat uh eggs with uh lye and salt, which is something we do for the Harold McGee class, uh and I really like him. I think we we have it on the blog 'cause Nastasha remember it's on the blog from a couple of years ago.
+
+[14:05] Uh you can just look up lye and eggs. And um that lye basically um denatures the protein slightly or makes it uh less able to bond with itself uh which makes it such that it stays clear even when it's cooked. Uh so that's pretty cool. And you know the um doesn't work as well in chicken eggs as it does in duck eggs and quail eggs. So you know that there's fundamentally a difference between uh those two those three eggs.
+
+[14:33] Um quail interestingly and duck work better than uh chicken. Now I haven't done uh a lot as far as cooking them goes, I haven't done a lot of experimentation to figure out what temperature uh whether there's a temperature difference. I know that a duck egg and a quail egg are going to be runny at 62 uh because I've done them. Uh and I know that a quail egg will still get slightly you know that creaminess that you would normally get at 63 Celsius, right? Which is weird but quail eggs cook much faster and I think they also uh can drift into overcooks much faster.
+
+[15:07] A quail egg is done in like you know under fifteen uh way under fifteen minutes. You know what I mean? It's like it's gets done quick. And quail eggs though, when you do a quail egg in a circulator, they're difficult to uh to get out the way you would get out of a chicken egg. So what I normally do is you get like one of those uh to one of those like cigar cutting things that are not for cigar they're for quail eggs and you chop the top and the bottom, not just the top to get the egg out the top and the bottom and then you can shake the egg out and you can get like you know um you know most of the eggs will come out uh properly whereas if you try to do it via cracking, uh you're gonna lose, you know, like half of your eggs.
+
+[15:48] So if you're gonna low temperature circulate a quail egg, you're gonna want to get something that can chop the top and the bottom of the um shell off. Um duck eggs I haven't had a lot of experience with. I mean I know they're still creamy at 62, but I don't know whether they'll set ex you know exactly at 64 and be creamy at 63. They're obviously gonna have to cook longer because they're um because they're bigger. Um but you know you know more interesting thing on eggs is uh and and relating to uh the proteins and basicity is uh and I I think we put this in eater last week is uh you need to add a little bit of uh if you if you're having problems peeling your eggs if you add a little bit of baking soda to the water apparently it helps and um and uh that's Harold McGee trick uh because it makes it more alkaline it makes it so the proteins in the eggs bond less strongly to the membrane in the shell when you peel it which is kind of cool.
+
+[16:39] Uh I asked uh Wiley whether they do that at the restaurant and that with the restaurant being WD fifty N and D they do but they say that peeling eggs is still a uh a pain in the butt. Um all right so uh by the way uh before I forget I said on the blog a couple of weeks ago that uh that dragon fruit is uh uh you know a gross awful uh tropical fruit and I got a couple people telling me that I was wrong and I was like well look I'm willing to be proven wrong. Well I came down here to Columbia and I had uh a fruit called pataya. Pataya is another basically word for a type of dragon fruit. The ones they get down here are yellow and lo and behold um it tastes good.
+
+[17:21] I like it. So I found a dragon fruit that I like. Also, you know Nastasha you remember how I hate pot papaya? Yeah. Yeah I hate it, right?
+
+[17:29] I mean I I I like a green papaya like a crunch papaya, but I hate myself a uh uh a ripe papaya in the States. It smells like like nothing you'd want. Like alternately hey sometimes it smells like a diaper, sometimes it smells like a vomit. You know this smell good. Do you like 'em no no I don't.
+
+[17:44] No, they're awful, right? Here they're actually good. In fact, in Columbia, right, you're not supposed to you're not supposed to walk around the streets of Columbia showing off that you have a lot of bling. This is not a bling oriented society when you're walking around on the streets, you know what I'm saying? Mm-hmm.
+
+[17:59] Uh you know for obvious and the security here is is intense. You know what I mean? There's still 'cause they're still I guess you know worried about um I guess problems. Anyway, so uh the the local phrase is to show you how good the papayas are here compared to where they are in the States if the local phrase here is uh don't give papaya out. In other words if you show if you have this papaya out that you're giving out that the people are gonna come take it and intake more you know what I mean so it's like that papayas are so ingrained that like the the kind of national statement for like you know don't flash your bling is basically don't flash your papayas.
+
+[18:34] Cute. Yeah anyway uh okay going up I have a question from Chris about uh bloom strength of you have a collar in case you want to do that first. Oh I alright caller you're on the air. Yeah hi um my name is Jesse I I have a question about uh juice extractors. And I was wondering um for under three hundred bucks is there one that you recommend highly okay well what kind of juice?
+
+[19:05] I'm juicing vegetables and fruits. Okay but not citrus no not citrus no and not sugar cane? And not sugar cane, no. And not um wheatgrass. No, not wheatgras either.
+
+[19:22] Okay. Uh because those are those are tough. Um so the one that we typically use uh in the school and that almost every chef has, and they can be had for well under three hundred dollars, uh, is the uh champion juicer. Okay. The champion.
+
+[19:37] And the champion juicer, basically the way it works is it's got an auger and then little teeth, and it just, you know, you you push the stuff through and pulp shoots out the front and juice goes down the bottom. Um and you can even put the pulp through a second time if you want to. It can also grind peanuts and it can grind cocoa nibs to make chocolate. You know it it it's good. It's a good machine.
+
+[20:00] Um it you know, it tends to heat your juice up a little bit. Do you know what I mean? Um so if you're having a problem with your juice overheating, and and especially when I make it, I tend to force the stuff down the throat of the machine so quickly that like it tends to overheat. I have had um I have had the base of the champion, the motor, like almost catch on fire and and like uh, you know, I've ha I've melted the internal component tree of it. But that's after like, you know, like an over an hour of continuous heavy, like, you know, basically I when I juice like that, I juice as if I was going to the gym and working out.
+
+[20:37] You know what I'm saying? So it's uh it's uh you know, that's not gonna happen that much. For more money, um some people like the green star juicer, which is basically a set of gears that mashes the stuff. However, from I've never used one. People that I know that have used it say that the yield is not nearly as high with um the green star as it is with the champion.
+
+[21:01] Now, there are a bunch of other juices that I've seen um on the web and even seen kind of in person that seem to they work on different principles, right? That work uh like centrifugal, so they grind it and then and then centrifically separate it out. Um and some of these purportedly make very good juice. The problem is is that they a lot of them don't have a lot of capacity. So if you're making a little bit of juice, right, they're okay.
+
+[21:26] But if you want to make a boatload of juice, like if you're doing a party or if you have you know a lot of people coming over or whatever, then you're not going to want to sit around and and burn out a smaller juicer. You're going to want something that maybe is um a little bit less uh maybe has a little bit less um yield on extraction, maybe warms up a little bit but is kind of a a robo monster, right? Which is what the champion is. So I actually don't have a lot of information on the other kind, on the kind that is like a little bit uh slower, maybe a little bit more gentle, but can't handle a lot because I can't personally use a piece of equipment that can't pump out a you know a gallon of juice in a reasonable amount of time. Do you know what I mean?
+
+[22:05] Yeah. Yeah yeah. Yeah. Okay. So um and you know it I although I have to say you know on the o other end of the spectrum if you have a bajillion dollars if all of a sudden you win the lottery, go out and buy a neutrafaster like the professional ones that you see that look like uh that look like a uh uh a tower at an airport and have a tube coming out of 'em.
+
+[22:25] Yeah I went to a uh I never used one before because I you know I've never worked in like you know one of these places that juices for living but and by the way none of these juicers will do wheatgrass sugar cane and they're not for citrus which is why I asked you those questions. Um but you put you know you when you put an apple in a champion juicer you have to push on it to get it to come out right and that's just what it is. When you uh you know, when I put an apple into the neutrafaster thing, I felt like it was going to suck my arm down into it. That's how thirsty it was to eat these apples, you know what I mean? So I'll respect to that machine.
+
+[22:56] The other machine that some people like, it's very expensive, is the Norwalk, which is basically a press. But again, I've never used it. I don't know how concerned you are about um keep changing it versus just you want it easy to clean, can pump out a whole bunch of juice. Um, I'm more in work fairly well and pump out a boatload of juice when you need it, but not necessarily need to do that much. Exactly.
+
+[23:20] Yeah. Yeah. So I'd use a champion. Have you used it before? Um, I think I've used it once in a restaurant, yeah.
+
+[23:28] Yeah. Yeah. Most people have them. You know, um, and most people we're we're usually fairly fairly happy with them. Uh I if you know, I don't know how much more it costs to get the commercial one.
+
+[23:38] The commercial one basically uh has a stainless shaft and better bearings on the motor uh versus the home machine. Um otherwise I think they're fairly similar. And it's easy to get replacement parts for it. And uh I don't know anyone that doesn't like their champion, let me put it that way. Okay.
+
+[23:52] Well, great. All right, well, thanks a lot, cool. Good luck with it. Bye. Let's take a break.
+
+[23:57] So Nastash, you think we should go to the first break? Yeah. All right, call in all your questions to 718497-2128, 718-497-2128 cooking issues. Dave. Yep.
+
+[25:08] You're back on. Hey, welcome back. You're on the air. Cooking issues coming to you live from Brooklyn and Bogota, Colombia, where the weather is always like fall. It's crazy.
+
+[25:19] It's like fall here all the time. I actually like the weather a lot. Oh. Pretty good. Yeah.
+
+[25:24] You know, you 'cause even though we're on the equator, it's it's like so high up in the mountains that it's always kind of like uh it's like basically fall weather, like early fall weather, which I enjoy. If you go to uh Medellin, which is uh you know, it's also in the mountains, but like slightly lower. They call that one eternal spring because it's like ten degrees warmer than here, so it's always springtime there. Always. Like literally nothing changes weather wise.
+
+[25:48] They have a rainy season where maybe it rains more, but like weather wise, the temperature, it's it's always the same. It's crazy, right? Cool, yeah. Then I went we went down to Cartagena, which is like on the water, and that is freaking humid. Freaking humid.
+
+[26:03] Anyway. Uh call on our questions. Still time to call on your questions too. 7184972128. That's 718 497 2128.
+
+[26:12] By the way, more on Columbia. Uh guys down here incredibly nice. Incredibly nice. Uh I should probably do a uh blog post on by the way, I haven't had blog posts. I've been internet challenged, uh uh often when I'm down here, and telephone challenge and cash challenge.
+
+[26:28] Do you know that they I came down here uh and uh my bank, Chase, uh g you know, decided that they when I asked them for replacement cards that they would give me a temporary card. You know what temporary cards don't do? Give money. They don't take money out of banks internationally. So we've been I've been like basically mooching off of my new friends here in Columbia uh you know for the last week.
+
+[26:56] Uh I don't I don't understand how it works. I don't even anyway, whatever. What we would do with a little all I'm just saying is that travelers who are going abroad, please get your financial crud straightened out before you go, or you could be a moron like Dave Arnold. That's basically the point, right? Yeah.
+
+[27:09] Anyway. So uh Chris writes in about the bloom strength of gelatin. Can you explain how to convert between different bloom strengths of sheet gelatin? I have a recipe that calls for silver strength uh at 160 bloom, but only have gold strength, 200 bloom handy. Thanks.
+
+[27:25] Okay. Uh first of all, uh bloom force, bloom is an ar is kind of uh a weird definition of the strength of gelatin. And literally what it is is you they take uh uh gelatin that's been cured, you know, for like you know, 17 hours at a very specific temperature, like 10 Celsius, right? Uh at a very specific concentration, like uh six six and two thirds, six point six six six percent, right? Uh and they push a um they push a little plunger that they make standard into it, and they figure out how much force it takes to push that plunger four millimeters into the surface of the gel, right?
+
+[28:08] And they give you that force in grams, and that's what bloom is. And by the way, most of the measures used in foods are weird, crazy lunatic things like this, where some dude in a factory was sitting around saying, hey listen, I gotta figure out how to measure this correctly. So he makes this like we like now this is the standard for all time. So you like, I don't know, he uses whatever he wants, a ball, a cone, a pen, whatever, but he makes the standard for all time. It's named after him, Bloom, and he pushes it in and he writes the stuff down.
+
+[28:34] So this is how the food industry works. So the question is how do you convert it? So you can't just simply and I uh you know other places that published you can't just simply exchange like say hey I have one that's a a 200 bloom I'm making these up to make math easier for me. I have one that's a 200 bloom and one that's a 100 bloom so I'm just gonna use twice of the 100 bloom. Right?
+
+[28:54] That doesn't make it doesn't make sense. Here's another thing. People like to use uh number of sheets of gelatin when they use sheet gelatin to kind of figure out what's going on. But the fact of the matter is is that typically you buy sheet gelatin uh in grades right platinum, silver, bronze, gold, right? Uh and the thing is is that as it goes down the line, platinum is the strongest gel, it it's has usually has the highest bloom strength.
+
+[29:17] It's usually the clearest gel that doesn't have any brown, right? Some of the lower strength gels uh have undergone some hydrolysis there can be some browning in them it's like they're not as you know not as good looking, not as clear. Anyways, the lower the strength the gel typically like uh the higher uh the higher the weight of each sheet is because they're attempting to um keep uh the gelling power per sheet similar is that makes sense but if you're gonna substitute uh a weight uh then you have to do some sort of conversion. Now uh a as you change the concentration of gelatin, right? You're not uh it doesn't scale.
+
+[29:55] So in other words, if you double the concentration, you don't get exactly twice the uh you don't get twice the strength of the gel. Typically, uh you get much more than twice the strength of the gel, right? So you you can't do a straight conversion. A very good uh uh thing to look at on the webs is something called uh gelatin summary and conversion. And it's a really useful, like four-page word document that you can download right off the thing by uh A UI.
+
+[30:23] There's uh Alb Albert Uster imports, and they're Nastash, you'll be happy to know that they're Swiss, right? And uh they provide uh the formula uh where you take uh and you multiply uh by the square root of the ratio of the bloom strength. So it doesn't it's not gonna make much sense, but I'll put it to you this way. If you have a 200 bloom strength gel, right, and you want to figure out how much to use of 140 bloom, you do 200 divided by 140, right? And then you take the square root of that.
+
+[30:53] And so if you needed uh and this is an example right off their sheet. I'm reading it off their sheet, so don't say I'm plagiarizing it, it's right there. Uh if you have 10 grams of 200 bloom gelatin, and but you you know the recipe calls for 10 grams of 200 bloom, but you want to use one that's 140 bloom, you take 10 times the square root of 200 over 140, and uh that is uh how many grams of the uh lower bloom strength gelatin you want to use. And the reason for the square root there is as I say that it's not a linear, it's not a linear thing. Um anyway, I hope that helps, and you should read that, uh read that little paper because it's kind of cool anyway.
+
+[31:30] It's got lots of kind of cool pictures, and uh it's titled gelatin summary, and that's what she is. It also gives, interestingly, stuff that you don't uh it has a bunch of actual conversions uh for known things, like how to convert uh platinum sheed weight to Knox powder weight, how to convert uh Nox powder weight to gold weight, and by the way, Nox powder, which is the one Nastasha that we use uh when we're doing uh our gelatin work is actually pretty darn good. It's got like uh it's it's between uh platinum and and gold, and actually closer to platinum, so that's pretty good, right? Yeah, that's really good. Bueno, yeah.
+
+[32:07] So Nox Gelatin, even though it's in the supermarket, turns out to be a serious uh butt kicker, right? Nice. Yeah, nice, nice. All right, so uh uh I tried coca tea, by the way. How was it?
+
+[32:22] It was fine. It's like, you know, uh it's uh yeah, uh we went to the like highest point in Bogota, which is uh Monserate, which is like you have to take up this like crazy tram up to the top and it's you know it's way up there, and they have this like little uh market over there, and uh so they sell all kinds of local Colombian products, and one of which is uh uh coca tea, which is basically just the coca leaves. And I tried it, and you know, I didn't I didn't feel uh I didn't feel anything really. It didn't, you know, didn't uh do anything to me as far as I know. And someone got me a bag of the leaves, but I'm pretty sure they're illegal to bring back to the United States.
+
+[32:58] And since I'm flying around from here to Panama and Panama to the United States with a bag loaded with knives and uh and white powders loaded in Ziploc bags, I don't think I'm gonna take the chance of actually having any coca products on me. What do you think? Yeah, I think that's smart. It's wise, right? Uh y yeah, I mean uh I I I'm not exactly sure how the law goes.
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+[33:20] I should have researched it before I before I came in, but uh I'm thinking that this is gonna have to stay with some friends in c in Columbia. There's no way I'm gonna try and bring this back on you. Can you imagine? Can you imagine like they find the coca bags and then they find like all the bags of like Xanthan gum and and uh you know, it's be crazy, crazy. Yeah.
+
+[33:38] Bad news. Horrible. Horrible idea. I mean I've had some bad ideas before, but I think that might be the most horrible of all. It's interesting.
+
+[33:45] Uh in terms of coca, you know, uh there's uh a lot of obviously controversy uh about the growing of cocoa because it's used to make cocaine, which is then shipped to the United States and causes many problems, etcetera, etcetera. But what's interesting is that we went to a museum called the Gold Museum down here, uh, and it's all about pre-Columbian gold. And this, you know, the coca as a product has been used by uh the people around here for like ten bazillion years. You know what I mean? Like a lot of the gold implements that they had way way you know, way before anyone uh showed up, uh you know, demonstrate that this is they they use this.
+
+[34:21] Not I'm not talking about refined cocaine, but like this as a um as basically a normal part of their daily life. They had you know, they would have uh pouches that they're like beautiful gold if you were rich. Most people would use just hollowed out gorge, but like gold pouches to carry the uh lime, they would burn shells of calcium hydroxide to use to activate the uh coca leaf strongest. So it's it's interesting. It's really, you know, part of the historical culture here, which makes it a little bit more difficult um to say that we should try to stop people from growing it.
+
+[34:51] It's kind of uh interesting little question. Yeah. Anyway. All right. So Brian writes in uh with uh several questions, and so we'll try to uh hit some.
+
+[35:05] I'm gonna go in reverse order. All right, Brian. Brian bought some malic acid and some citric acid at the homebrew store. Good news. I want to use them in cocktails and other stuff, such as jams, pat teta flea, uh any other acids I should get.
+
+[35:16] Any thoughts on the best applications? Well, yes, in fact, uh you can get some tartaric acid. Although if you have citric and malic, citric and malic are the two baller acids. If you have citric and mal citric acid and malic acid, uh you can do a lot, right? Malic acid is the acid that is typical in apples, right?
+
+[35:33] Apples malice. Uh, and citric acid is the acid that's typical in lemons. Now, um, and if you taste them by themselves in small quantities, like they taste like the warhead that they're that they're, you know, the apple warhead, and the other one tastes like the lemon warhead, warhead is a candy, if you you know, or the sour patches. If you uh buy tartaric acid, like that's one of the main acids in grapes, and so that provides uh a grapey note. Uh if you mix two parts of citric acid to one part malic acid, you get the acidic flavor of uh lime, which is the one that I use most.
+
+[36:09] And I use it as a corrective, right? So if you don't want to add limes, or you know, if you just want to correct the acidity of a juice slightly, um we use these acids all the time. If you jack them too much, you tend to throw the juice out of balance. Wouldn't you say so, Nastasha? Yeah.
+
+[36:24] Some other acids I would get are uh lactic acid in powder form, which can give alternately like a sour crowdy or a sausagey taste, depending on the application, because it's you know what happens when lactic acid um uh you know interacts. Uh that's a good one. Uh I use one called uh sixinic, but I don't recommend getting it. It just makes very, very authentic uh lime juice, but it's very hard to get. The lactic lactic use tiny amounts of it.
+
+[36:52] The lactic acid, the um and the malic acid, the citric acid, tartaric acid, uh are all pretty much available, I think from homebrew and wine shops. The other one obviously you should get is ascorbic acid, which is vitamin C, which is a very good uh antioxidant if you're making apple juice uh and whatnot. Um but uh there you know, there's some acids I want to get a hold of that I don't have, like Quinic, which is a strinic, astringent and is is a part of the characteristic stuff, and things like apples, um, but I don't have a source for it yet. Uh I want to try, you know, tiny quantities of other bizarre acids, but uh until I find I won't I can't talk much about them until I find a a source for them. Uh but it's good news, you're gonna love that.
+
+[37:36] We always love having that stuff around, um, just to like I say, correct acidity. If you're gonna make a soda and it has to last a long time, then you can use a malic citric blend with simple syrup to approximate lime. And then if you squeeze a little fresh lime or peel in at the end, you get a good lime back out. But I mean nothing beats the real thing, right, Nastasha? That is right.
+
+[37:57] Nothing like the real thing. Anyway, okay. Second question. Uh as Brian's speaking again. I have made my own vinegar.
+
+[38:03] It is a snap, except for the damn vinegar flies, and the vinegar is tasty as well. What exactly is the vinegar mother, and is there any culinary application for it other than for making more vinegar? That's an excellent question. Um, one of the uh uh uh Harris Radio hosts is an expert vinegar maker, but I don't know if he talks about it on the air, so I won't call them out. Uh the uh when you make vinegar, what happens is is you take uh you basically take alcohol, right?
+
+[38:30] That's you know somewhere around 10% alcohol, and you expose it to oxygen. When you expose it to oxygen, uh acetyl acetobacter um grow on acetic acid bacteria, grow on the top, uh well, they grow all throughout it, right? And they're turning the ethanol into uh into acetic acid. Okay. Now uh like I say they require oxygen to survive.
+
+[38:55] So what ends up happening is that uh they tend to form uh a bunch of what's called bacterial cellulose, right? And then they float that stuff floats to the top and forms a layer. Now the bacteria then after they use up the initial uh oxygen that's in the acetic uh in in the in the stuff that you're turning into vinegar, after they use the initial oxygen up, they tend to only exist in large quantities, actively in large quantities, in the top of the forming vinegar right where the oxygen is. And so they sit there chilling on the top of the of the vinegar uh making acetic acid from the ethanol and at the same time uh producing bacterial cellulose. And so that layer is basically uh living bacteria and bacterial cellulose.
+
+[39:47] So yes you can lift it off and use it to make more vinegar, right? Uh or uh there's a uh it's I've never heard of it done with uh with vinegar cultures before with vinegar mothers, but there's kind of a well known uh Asian Filipino dessert called uh what is it called Nata Nata de Coco, right? And what that is is it is the gel produced basically vinegar mother, right? And what they do is is instead of having it in a jar that's tall, uh, right, or a jug and where they're trying to prevent, I guess, excess um moisture loss and whatnot, they spread coconut water in uh like in like a several inch thick layer in large sheets and they use a very specific uh acetobacter, but this works with you know any any uh uh acetic acid bacteria and it grows a thick layer uh of uh bacterial cellulose on top which is the same thing as vinegar mother. There's you know this one it just happens to produce a lot more of it so it makes it a lot thicker.
+
+[40:50] So what they then do is they take uh off the uh the top layer and they soak it uh and then they I think they might even boil it and they get rid of the acetic acid flavor and they have the this basically gel produced from the thing and then they infuse it with syrups and make it sweet and stuff like that. So that's uh I believe not not that to cocoa I think but it's basically vinegar mother. So you could take the vinegar mother, soak it uh if you're gentle with it because it's probably not going to be as strong. Uh and then maybe boil it in a syrup and make a a gel out of it and you know tell us what happens compare it to uh compare it to the one from Asia. Anyway, uh that's a interesting question.
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+[41:30] The third question that Brian has is uh oh by the way he used one of my favorite terms. He's like I have uh a lot of questions and he said I I hope I'm not bogarding the radio show. Don't you I l I haven't heard bogarding in a long time. You like that one, right? Anyway.
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+[41:46] Um okay black garlic is all the rage. How is it made and can I make it at home? Alright so for those of you that uh haven't been paying attention to like hip new ingredients over the past couple of years, uh black garlic is a kind of garlic that uh is uh you know originated in Korea uh and people bring it over here and it's black, uh and what kind of brown, it's not really black, it's kind of brownish black, right? Nastash not really it's not really not black. Right.
+
+[42:14] Yeah. It's kind of like dark, dark, dark brown. Uh and it's kind of oohy, it's still in its uh in the cloves, and it's uh ooey gooey, and you spread it on things, uh or do whatever you want with it, and it's very, very sweet. Uh and it's uh has like uh sugary, like some people say like balsamic, but I don't really get I don't really get that. Anyway, but like it's it's what it is.
+
+[42:39] It tastes like what it is. Uh and it's pretty good. People like it. It also doesn't make your breath stink the way that uh regular uh garlic does. And if I have time more more on that later, well, let's do it now.
+
+[42:49] So, you know, we pressure cook garlic to do the uh same thing. And uh we're working on um we're working on trying to get some funding to get uh uh a garlic specialist to run some tests for us to verify why pressure cooked garlic doesn't make your breath stick because the stuff that's in garlic that um stuff that's in garlic that does make your breath stink and is extremely punchy and shouldn't be broken down by the temperatures of a pressure cooker, but apparently is. And uh he has some theories, but we have to run some tests, so more on that when we when we do it. But uh the way black garlic is made, if people I and by the way, uh I did some uh a little bit of research and I haven't been able to uh find anyone who definitively says what's going on, but people uh say that it's fermented and it's not fermented in the traditional sense, right? Uh because the temperatures are here are too high.
+
+[43:41] Here's how it's made. You uh you basically keep the uh the garlic uh whole. Uh some people apparently soak it and some don't beforehand. You keep it in and by the way, some people say soy sauce is in it, soy sauce is unnecessary, not needed in it, blah blah blah. Okay.
+
+[43:57] You take the garlic and you keep it above uh 140 degrees Fahrenheit above 60 degrees Celsius right and uh but it you can go all the way up right according to some of these uh sites all the way up to like eighty or ninety degrees Celsius and still have it have it age. I wouldn't do that. I would never take it uh out you know above the the softening temperature of the garlic which is going to be um you know in the 70s or 80s uh uh Celsius so you know I I would keep it down lower where people recommend like forty fifty Celsius which is in the hundred and like 140 and a little above range. Don't go any below that because if you go below that you can have bacteria growing on it, right? So they keep it hot and they keep it uh basically from drying out so it doesn't desiccate uh over time and they keep it for a long time.
+
+[44:49] So on the order of 30 days. The higher the temperature probably the the uh the less time it's gonna take. But that's how they make it. So it's done hot uh for a long time and then allowed to cool down and and and there you have it. Some people uh in a in a patent late online some people put charcoal in with it to try to absorb some of the odor odors as it's being made.
+
+[45:12] I don't know that that's truly necessary but the easiest way to do it uh is to use a dehydrator. So if you're lucky enough to have an excalibur style dehydrator then you can um so the sheet style dehydrators are tough because you don't want it to actually dehydrate. So you want to kind of like like put plastic wrap put like put the garlic in a container that's non-reactive. Put plastic wrap or whatever over that container so that it doesn't lose all of its moisture. Now it's basically a controlled humidity environment.
+
+[45:44] And then you put that into a dehydrator and you you set it at like I'm going to make up a number like 150 and you let that Fahrenheit and you let it run for like 30 days and and there you have it. And so um so that's it. So it doesn't appear to be an enzyme reaction that's going on because at those temperatures I'm pretty sure you're going to at least it maybe it initially it is, but you're going to break down uh broken down a lot of the enzymes over that period of time at those temperatures, I would guess, right? And it's not uh a fermentation in the sense that it's not bacterial or uh yeast derived. Uh and this is why in the science literature it's just referred to as aged garlic.
+
+[46:22] I think what's happening is is that a lot of the compounds in garlic are pretty unstable and if they're just held at these temperatures for very long periods of time can produce these kind of crazy things like uh like a aged garlic. Uh what do you think? Pretty interesting rightas? Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[46:41] Alright so uh anyway, I was supposed to like I say be in Brooklyn I am flying out tomorrow to Panama where I'm doing a demo uh in Panama City for a bunch of cooking school people and I'm going to do an Ikime demo there maybe using some of the new IKime stuff that I learned when I was working with Dave Chang's uh on his iPad app after which I will be in Harvard next Tuesday giving a lecture to uh bright you know bushy whatever it's bush bright eyed bushy tailed college students uh about uh the wonders of science in uh in cooking with uh Harold McGee, which should be a blast. Unfortunately, that means I will not be doing a live show because it's during the actual uh cooking issues time that we'll be uh doing the lecture. So I look forward to speaking to you all in two weeks. Send us your questions, cooking issues. The following is a message from Nova and Y.
+
+[49:00] Do you dig local food? Love organic farmers. Do you crave to be part of a growing movement of consumers concerned with the state of our nation's food system? Then sign up today to take the NOFA NY's Locavore Challenge this September. Join five thousand other New York Locavores that are hungry, active, and ready to change our food system.
+
+[49:19] Learn more at www.nylocavorechallenge.com.
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+[0:32] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues back from Columbia, Panama, and the Harvard, where I was lecturing last year. We're back in Bushwick today with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. Calling all of your questions to 718-497-2128. At 718-497-2128, still can't remember the dang number.
+
+[0:50] Anyway, today, last week was our 52nd episode. We were supposed to celebrate it, but because the fake hurricane stopped us from being together in the studio, we're celebrating our 53rd episode with a delicious bottle of wine from our friends at the Barter House. So uh anywho, uh we're gonna have that, uh, which we shouldn't be drinking because we're gonna be shooting an episode of uh no reservations, uh what's it called? No reservations required. No reservations.
+
+[1:19] I think it's just another one. With uh Anthony Bourdain later on today. Uh maybe we'll talk about it, maybe we won't. I don't know. Today's cooking issues is sponsored by Modernist Pantry.
+
+[1:29] Supplying modernist ingredients for the home cook. Modernist Pantry offers modern ingredients and packages that make sense for the home cook, and most only cost around five bucks per unit. Unit? Yeah. Five per pat per thingamajake.
+
+[1:42] Yeah. Uh and you know what this is one of the main problems when you're buying um I'll finish I'll finish the thing. Okay. Whether you are looking for hydrocolloids, pH modifiers, or even meat glue, eat glue, eat glue. You should get meat glue, by the way.
+
+[1:54] You should all have meat glue in your pantry. You'll find it at Modernist Pantry. But by the way, when you buy meat glue from these guys, uh, you should remember to always store it in the freezer after you're done with it, or it's gonna go bad fairly quickly. Remember that. Store it in the freezer, tightly sealed in a ziploc in the freezer.
+
+[2:07] Um if you need something that they don't carry at Modernist Pantry, just ask. Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you. With worldwide shipping, hey guys, source, okay. If you're gonna source anything, source uh PectineX SPL. Uh I'm talking specifically to Chris Anderson in Modern Pantry Modern Pantry.
+
+[2:25] You're gonna have to order a 25 liter pail, because we're sick of selling it to people because we're that's not what we're very good at, although the school is still selling that stuff. Uh I tried to get Terra Spice to carry it and they they weren't able to. So maybe you guys can carry that, which is a fantastic enzyme that you can use for clarification, auto suppreming, uh getting the pith off of peels, making delicious French fries, etc. etc. Buy it.
+
+[2:46] Anyway, uh Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you. With worldwide shipping, Modernist Pantry is your one stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients. Fans of cooking issues that order today, during today's show, go on there right now because I want to prove that we actually have some fans. We'll get a free sample of transglutaminase, aka meat glue, with their first order, but only while supplies last. Simply use the promo code CI, which I guess stands for cooking issues, 53, CI 53, when placing your order online at Modernist Pantry.com.
+
+[3:15] Uh, this please uh do so so that so that it proves that we're you know useful in some way, right? Okay. Um visit modernistpantry.com today for all of your modernist ingredient needs. Uh and it is true that one of the hardest things that people uh have when they're sourcing these ingredients is purchasing them. Uh and then if they want to purchase five, six, seven hydrocolloids, even from the suppliers that uh we use for restaurant supply, they're usually buying more than you need, a lot more than you need, because you're typically only using a few grams of these things, and you're paying uh 15, 16, 17 dollars per unit of the for these things, and you don't need that much of it, so it's a real barrier to experimentation.
+
+[3:52] So, this is a really good concept where you go, you can order smaller quantities of these things that are gonna be useful to you, uh, and then you can play around with them. They they also, I think they said that they'll get bulk if you need bulk, and I'm sure their pricing is different for both. So uh go on, check them out. Cheers, modernist pantry. Nastasha full pulling the Cesare Casella and throwing some some ice cubes in her wine.
+
+[4:13] Uh what are we drinking today, Nastasha? You gonna give us a little spiel? Oh, I don't know. It's a jewels cote de Provence. Great pronunciation.
+
+[4:21] Really? No. Sweet. I'm not mean. By the Barter House.
+
+[4:28] The Barter House, our good buddies. Okay, on to oh, by the way, remember to call in your questions. We're very excited for your questions today, although we do have a lot of email questions to answer. If I can only find them, I gotta put I put them on my iPad. Okay.
+
+[4:42] Huh. Kevin writes in uh hi Dave and Nastasha. I've been working on a blog post listing ingredients commonly seen in scientific cooking, and I'm stuck on sodium hexametaphosphate, SHMP, known in the parlance as shimp. Um I know you've talked about its role as a calcium sequestrant uh for spherification before. By the way, calcium sequestrant means that basically that it has the ability to bind calcium molecules, and calcium is one of the things that causes certain gels to set.
+
+[5:10] Uh so if you're making something with uh alginate, uh, for instance, and you want to stop it from prematurely setting, we add a little bit of sodium hexametophosphate to bind up all the calcium that's available that would otherwise uh shaft your um shaft your your gel. And so that's you know, that's what a sequestering is. Anyway, uh but I've also seen many claims it can be used as an acidity regulator, an emulsifier, a humectant, a raising agent, uh sequestrant we already said, stabilizer and a thickener. I think I figured out how acidity regulation and emulsification work, but the rest are a mystery to me. My question is in two parts.
+
+[5:44] Could you shed any more light on novel uses for shimp, sodium hexametophosphate? Uh and two, can you recommend any books, sites, journals, or other resources for doing research on scientific cooking? I have access to academic journals, but I sometimes still can't find the basic details of certain things. Well, uh, I'll answer the second one first. Uh the problem uh with uh scientific journals uh is unless you know exactly what you're looking for, it can be uh very difficult to search for kind of general industrial knowledge on those journals.
+
+[6:16] So, for instance, if you're saying, hey, look, I want to look up um the production, or I want to look up you know how to do ecogemia, how to spinal cord ablation. If you know exactly what you're searching for, you can find the information. But otherwise, it's very difficult. I usually look for industrial sites. Uh like corporations usually put out lots of white papers on how their products are uh work.
+
+[6:36] For instance, um, if you want to know about methyl, the best place to go is DAO for methyl cellulose, uh, you know, the for alginates, it used to be ISP, which is which is a company now owned by FMC Biopolymer. So for these industrial applications where it's not a trade secret, where they're trying to get you to use the product, a lot of the information is available online, or if you call the company, they'll send it to you. This is the case with enzymes and hydrocolloids primarily. If you want to know how a weird industrial cooking procedure works, patent searches are often a good way to go. Uh or there are specific, if you have access to scientific journals, you might also have access to uh food processing books, which are usually on different websites within the same kind of an area.
+
+[7:14] Like for instance, Canovell has a long list of books on actual food processing. For instance, the book Frying, Improving Quality, where I learned a lot about uh oil degradation, things like that. Another good source is Egan Press, which is put out by the American Association of Serial Chemists. Good places to look for this for this sort of thing. When it comes specifically to sodium hexametophosphate, the problem with uh that is that it's usually an ins uh um not very specific, it's not one thing.
+
+[7:41] There's usually an impure bunch of uh polyphosphate salts, some of which are sodium hexametophosphate and some of which aren't. There's also uh the phosphate salts, like they react very, very differently depending on which one they are. Two really good resources uh on the internets to look up uh one is the polyphosphates, chemistry effect and importance, which you can get as a uh uh word document online. It's easy to search for, and it has a very good discussion of kind of the chemistry of what's going on uh in you know fairly layperson's terms, thank goodness. Uh and another one is search for ICL underscore meat.pdf, which specifically is how to use different kinds of polyphosphates in meat.
+
+[8:22] Now, um uh shorter chain uh phosphate salts are typically basic, whereas the longer ones, uh encyclical ones like sodium hexametophosphate are typically not basic. So, for instance, more basic polyphosphates are added to things like meat glue, a specific kind of meat glue to make it basic so that the enzymes don't react when they're when they're being uh you know when they're sitting there on your desk before you paint them on on meat. Um larger ones that they act as a sequestrant, and the way they act as an emulsifier is by uh basically solubilizing the proteins. It's the proteins that are acting as an emulsifier when you're adding something like sodium hexametophosphate to not you wouldn't add sodium hexametophosphate to meat for that, you'd add a shorter chain polyphosphate. But anywho, that's what it's basically doing.
+
+[9:03] The protein itself is the emulsifier, and the polyphosphates are basically making that protein more uh available. Uh they can act as buffers in different kinds of uh regimes depending on which one you use. They're very, very versatile, but the actual usage of them are very specific, almost the way they are with hydrocolloids. You have to know exactly why you're using it, which one you're using. So I recommend you look at those two sources and you'll get a much better handle for what's going on.
+
+[9:26] What do you think, Sus? Yes. Yes. Okay, uh, we got a call uh calling from Michael. Michael wants to know about potatoes and uh meat glue.
+
+[9:36] Two separate questions. I will do the second question first. Uh I'd like to know if I can use transglutaminase to glue my drunk and passed out friend's hand to his face. If I wet his hand and apply it to his face and he didn't move until morning, would it bond? Also, if it did work successfully, would I be putting him in any serious medical danger by doing this?
+
+[9:53] What if I just glue his hand to his torso? Okay. Uh I'm not gonna I'm not gonna go ahead and recommend that you glue uh the hand to the face, but uh let's take it from a theoretical standpoint. One of the problems with gluing your hand to your face is that uh the like your epidermis is pretty much kind of a dead kind of a protein, so I don't know how much is going to be available for gluing. That said, you know, I can easily glue chicken skin.
+
+[10:19] I know that works, you know. Uh so it probably would work to an extent. I think you'd get a much, much, much, much, much better bond if you sanded his hand first to make it kind of rough. Like kind of like you like if you skinned your knee, that kind of thing, like if you fell off of a bike and you hit your hand on gravel, that kind of a thing. And then did a similar thing to his forehead.
+
+[10:38] I think you'd get a much better bond. Not recommending this. Please don't do this. Um you'd also need to keep it very immobile. Uh it wouldn't actually take four hours because you remember human body temperature is around 98 degrees.
+
+[10:51] So it probably the enzyme would set fairly quickly. I'm guessing fairly quickly. Um now the strength of the glue uh with with the transglutaminase is it's not on the order of making a whole muscle again. So if you use transglutaminase, you know that it's much more like two pieces of uh muscle that are separated by a membrane or the the junction between two different muscles. So that's the kind of level of bonding you're gonna get.
+
+[11:14] Um so you could pull it apart, but uh this would cause probably nasty disfiguration and scarring. Uh so I'm gonna go ahead and not recommend it. But if he wants to, he can go to modernistpantry.com. Yeah, yeah, yes. But if you want a sample of meat glue to not test on your friend, I recommend that you go to the Monitor's pantry and enter the code of CI, what was it, 53?
+
+[11:36] CI 53, purchase some meat glue, and go ahead and do not try this on your friend. And and this is not look, uh many times I'll like nod, nod, wink, wink, don't try. Please don't actually try this, right? I mean, like Nastasha, look at my face. I'm serious this time.
+
+[11:49] Yeah, don't try it. I'll tell you, I can't tell you when I'm not serious, but I am serious this time. Don't try this. Now we're gonna try the delicious butterfly. We need a Dave's serious sound effect.
+
+[11:57] Yeah, but yeah, what like what could it be like maybe the Willem Scream. Yeah, yeah, right. For those of you that don't know, there's a scream called like the Willem Scream that is in every movie, and Spielberg's used it like eight billion times. So and every time I hear it, I'm like, awesome! So it's used uh, I guess one of the more famous usages is in Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom.
+
+[12:16] When they're walking across the bridge and uh Indiana Jones cuts the bridge and the guy falls down into where the alligators or crocodiles are eating people alive. That's that's a use of the screen. But it's if it once you know the screen, that particular scream, maybe Jack can find it before the end of the uh episode, and you can you can you can hear it. Yeah, I'll just fill my pipe. I like that he already has it.
+
+[12:37] The original use. Alright, now you guys know it. You guys know it now, that scream? It's in every movie. That's green.
+
+[12:46] That's green. Uh yeah, okay. Yes, it's in every scream. Oh yeah, yeah, every scream. Once you hear that, it's not like it's not that's the not the natural human scream, it's just the Wilhelm scream that's being used in every movie.
+
+[12:59] Weird. And the wine is delicious. Okay. Uh so second question on potatoes. Uh by the way, Michael is a recent FCI grad.
+
+[13:10] That's good. Um, and he's uh developing shack is playing the Wilhelm screen. No, I just played. Oh, you did it? Oh, come on.
+
+[13:16] Uh we're off the wheel. All right. She see this is what Nastasha does during the show. Instead of paying attention to what we're doing and try to help me get ingredients, she's like, I'll research the screen. She's great with sponsors, though.
+
+[13:26] Yeah, yeah. Thank you. Yeah, yeah, the sponsors like sponsors like anyone other than me. Anyway. Uh okay.
+
+[13:32] When my school uh instructor, chef instructor, so one of ours at the FCI, told me that we shouldn't use potatoes that are sprouting because once they sprout, they release poison into the potato. I'd like to know what's going on there. Would the potatoes be fine if I cut off the sprouts and a large portion of the potato from where the sprout came? And are there any ways I can cook the tainted potatoes to make them safer? I'm the family chef at the executive dining room where I work, and so I get quite a few sprouting potatoes to work with.
+
+[13:55] Okay, here's the dealie. Potatoes, uh, when they're exposed to light or or otherwise after a certain length of time, uh go out of dormancy. When they go out of dormancy, they start to sprout. They also start to turn green. Uh, and that's a sign of when that this uh chemical called solanine is developing.
+
+[14:14] So solanine is a very, very bitter and also poisonous chemical. There are actually have been some deaths attributed to solanine ingestion from uh potatoes, typically during famine times. Um the good news about uh solanine is it's extremely bitter. So if your potatoes taste bitter, don't eat them, right? Um also the the greening, when you see potatoes that are stored improperly in supermarkets, I see it all the time.
+
+[14:39] The skin's turning green. The green is not actually the solanine forming, it's chlorophyll that's forming in the potato. But uh chlorophyll and uh solanine develop at roughly the same time. So greening in a potato is indication that there's also a high solanine content in the potato. Sprouts have a large, large potato sprouts, which you should never eat, have a large amount of solanine in them.
+
+[15:01] So in a potato that's otherwise okay, that doesn't show like a lot of greening, uh, you can cut out the sprout areas because the here's the order. Sprouts have the most solanine, the skin area that's turned green has the second most solanine, and uh the inside of the potato has the least amount of solanine. That said, the worse off a potato gets in terms of once it's gone out of dormancy or started to sprout, uh the more solanine is going to be found throughout. So you want to peel the heck out of a potato that has uh that in it, and you want to cut out uh a lot of the sprouty areas, right? Um now uh the question is can you get rid of it by cooking?
+
+[15:40] You're not gonna get rid of it by boiling or by steaming. If you deep fry uh potatoes, you can extract some of it because I believe it's oil soluble. The problem is it doesn't go away, it just gets extracted into the oil. So what you're doing is uh spreading the poison out over time. So the more you use the oil, the more you're spreading the uh the po the poison out.
+
+[15:59] Uh also again, never eat potato foliage. So here's this. I was uh I was researching this. This is from the article Solanine Glycoalkaloids in potatoes in food uh magazine Food and Chemical Toxicology 1990. Uh the highest total um content of solanine in the potato plant are in the foliage, the blossoms, and the sprouts, followed by the peel and the tuber flesh.
+
+[16:20] Um within the tuber, the concentrations are greatest in the layer under the peel and in the eyes. Another interesting fact about solanine is that it's very small amounts of it are considered necessary to the taste of it. So without it, the potato wouldn't taste like a potato, but uh large amounts of it uh not only will kill you, but will add a distinctly bitter taste followed by a longer lasting burning sensation in the throat. Break? Oh, all right.
+
+[16:44] So uh there it is with your potatoes, and we're gonna go into our first commercial break. Cooking issues. Morning slaving for bread. So that every mouth can be fed. Means rise.
+
+[17:06] Get stuff in the morning, flaving the buttons. And welcome back to Cooking Issues. Calling all your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. And no, I didn't memorize it.
+
+[18:12] Nastasha wrote down the number during the break. Listen, the Israelites, great tune. I'm not used to that version. Have you ever heard that? I've never heard that version before, but I like it.
+
+[18:20] It's more rock and I'm used to the uh, what is it? Desmond Desmond Decker? Uh, yeah, I'm used to that, but uh Nastasha picked that because if I have time about it later on today, we'll talk about it. Uh uh we're doing a shoot today for the Bourdain thing I mentioned, but the subject of the shoot is they wanted us to do a Christmas feast, and I was an ancient Christmas feast. Uh so it's not a technical technological problem, it's more of my history interest problem.
+
+[18:44] And I was like, well, you know, Christmas wasn't a big feast until kind of recently, you know, it's kind of like a Victorian area thing when we started having these giant Christmas feasts, you know, usually not really a very religious holiday. Easter is the more important one, you know what I'm saying? You should tell them about your Jersey Bible sometime. Oh, yeah, well, I want to I want to do a spoken uh I want to do a spoken word Bible completely in Jersey. Anyway, um it's one of my later life goals after I retire from anything else, from everything else that I've done.
+
+[19:09] Okay, so uh, like that's ever gonna happen. Okay, so um, so I said, listen, uh, a much more interesting problem is what might they have been eating eating uh around Jesus' actual birthday. Right? That was the thing. And so I've been researching um recently uh food uh that the Israelites would be eating uh basically throughout the history of Palestine, but more specifically trying to figure out what would be going on in the Roman period uh right around the time of the birth of Christ.
+
+[19:37] And so if I have time, we'll talk about some of that stuff uh later on in the program. Okay. Now, la I think it was last week. By the way, I'll tell you some stories about Panama real quick. Panama.
+
+[19:49] Uh since I haven't spoken to you guys since I've been from Panama or the Harvard where I was uh teaching uh late last week. Um Panama is interesting. Uh but as far as a food person, I'll tell you two quick quick things about Panama. Uh one, if you go to the fruit market at Panama, like bring some sort of moist towelette, because it's not super clean. I'm not saying anything negative about it, right?
+
+[20:11] I know, you know, but check this out. I purchased a sack, a sack of 100 fresh mango steeds, right? Fresh mango steens uh for $17. All right. Now that is an absurdly low price.
+
+[20:28] And uh sat up on the roof, a bunch of us sat up on the roof, uh, including, by the way, someone who should be an expert in uh mango steens, Andy Ricker, famous uh you know, chef in Portland area who does amazing work with Thai food. Well, he and it's the first time I met him actually in Panama, great guy. Uh we were hanging out. Uh, and uh amazing, amazing. So he said they were very good.
+
+[20:50] I mean, they were the best that I've ever had, and so he said they were good too, and he's had them a lot in Southeast Asia, so he should know what's up. 100 mangastines, 17 bucks. I later heard on from a local that I got ripped off that he can get them for fifteen dollars a sack. So, so you know, I got ripped off by two bucks. Here's another one for you.
+
+[21:06] I saw a pickup truck, a pickup truck full of Rambutans, and they were basically free. The Rambutans were basically free. Rambo, what's a Rambutan? It's kind of like a lychee, but it's kind of furry and red. Do you know what I'm talking about?
+
+[21:14] Furry looking in red. They call them Mamonchino, not like Chinese mammon instead of Mamanchillo, which is basically their word for Spanish lime or gneps. Anyway, which are also delicious and lychee like. Okay. So those are two.
+
+[21:31] Oh, here's the other story from Panama. Panama comes from a word that means many fish, and they got fish all up and down the block because they're they're bordered by two oceans that are only an hour apart. Here's the sad part for you. This is where Panama really needs to break out the shine. Their uh mechanism for selling fish at the fish market.
+
+[21:48] I visited the Panama City fish market is kind of abysmal. The lobsters, the spiny lobsters, which are flown in from the Caribbean, only are trucked in from the Caribbean only an hour away from the market, are already all dead. All of the local crabs that they call king crabs, but they're different from our king crabs, which look great, and everyone says they're delicious, all dead. Like the fish is kind of being stored in a hor horrible condition. So like they have an amazing natural resource there, but um the way it gets to market, it gets kind of shafted.
+
+[22:15] So I mean, one thing I'd like to see in Panama is for them to for chefs to basically say, hey, look, let's spend a couple of extra bucks and pay fish fishermen an extra couple of bucks to try and get the fish in top quality to the market. It'd be better for the people that are fishing, and it'd be better for the chefs, and it would definitely do a lot to help um high end food, which I think they're working a lot on on food on food there now. I think it's becoming more popular. Anyway, enough on Panama for now. Jason had an egg question, which I know, yeah, you answered.
+
+[22:45] I answered part of it, and then I said we're gonna research more. Okay. So you had a question about uh different kinds of eggs, and I didn't have the chance because I had only one hour of internet time for like $8,000 when I was in Colombia to look stuff up, uh, about the different kinds of eggs and whether they're whether they're different. Um and in my research this morning I found a horrifying but kind of like couldn't look away article, which has nothing to do with eggs. It's called interspecific, which I think they mean interspecies, interspecific duck, chicken uh chimera, uh avian uh if it's from avian biological research in 2011.
+
+[23:18] These guys took quails, ducks, and chickens, and made like ch like ch quucks, like quail chickens, quail ducks, like chuck, chick chucks, like mixtures where they took they took the the they injected duck uh like duck d DNA into like a quail egg or quail and they have pictures of these kind of insane uh chimerical like uh bird creations. So if you want to see some crazy freaking birds, go look up that article. But anyway. Um but uh I looked up and there is in fact a big difference. It took me a while to find it, but there is uh a difference in the proteins that are available in different eggs.
+
+[24:00] Uh no one I think has done the study of how it uh affects cooking yet, because I wasn't able to find that. But the kind of holy grail of articles on this subject is from 2005. Uh uh Martha Miguel uh has the article called Comparative Study of Egg White Proteins from Different Species by chromatographic and electrophoretic methods. Uh and they tested hen, quail, duck, pheasant, and ostrich. And they showed that uh they all have uh the protein content in them ranges from 71 to 82 percent.
+
+[24:28] Um ostrich uh having actually the lowest protein concentration, uh, which is lower than 71%, and the highest is in quail and duck. Uh but then they go on to talk about the various differences, but they don't really say how it affects cooking. So I can't really go into it there. But if you want to look at the specific protein differences between them, look up that study, the comparative study of egg white proteins from different species by chromatographic and electrophretic methods. Yeah?
+
+[24:44] Mm-hmm. Ganoog? Mm-hmm. Done? All right.
+
+[24:54] Okay. Uh Colin writes in, Colin, longtime listener uh and writer in of things. Uh I just snagged a rotor stator homogenizer off of eBay for a song. Uh yes, and after bleaching out the prions, which by the way, prions, uh, so a rotor stator homogenizer, have we talked about this on the show? I feel like you did.
+
+[25:12] Yeah. You did. A little bit? Anyway. Uh basically what it is is uh imagine uh a blender when you're s when you're blending something, right?
+
+[25:20] The blades hitting the uh hitting the product are what breaks apart your uh your part your food. So how small a particle that you can make is basically dependent on how fast the blade uh hits a particle or the relative speed between a particle and the blade hitting it, right? So obviously faster blenders uh with faster tip speeds make for smaller particles. But the stuff moves around in a blender, right? So you're not getting because the particles are moving and because they can move out of the way of the blades, you're limited in kind of how much energy you can smash into it and how small a particle you can make.
+
+[25:54] In a rotor stator homogenizer, right, it's the equivalent of uh putting the particle up against a wall and then because it's got a stationary part, and then the other the other part that's the so the stator is standing still, the rotor is spinning, bam, goes right next to it, and there's such a small clearance that it just obliterates the particles. So if you if you're gonna turn it into a fighting analogy, it's the difference between punching someone in the face and putting their head on the curb and stomping on it. In terms of the amount of what? I'm trying to give someone an analogy that they can like quickly understand in terms of force involved. And so that's the kind of force difference that we're talking about uh in a wreck in a rotor stator homogenizer versus a standard uh blender.
+
+[26:29] Now uh oh, I didn't finish this question. Uh okay, so he bought one of these suckers uh and he set to work creating an aeoli with a stiff whippy texture of uh egg white of egg emulsified iolis, but using only gall uh garlic, olive oil, and salt. Uh it's always proved impossible with a blender, mortar, and pestle. It just turns to soupy goo, which he doesn't enjoy. I like soupy goose sometimes.
+
+[26:52] You like a soupy goo? Mm-hmm. Yeah, Nastasha likes a soupy goo. Unlike biscuits, which I someone commented on, but I gotta find it. Okay.
+
+[26:58] Um Did we ever follow up with the biscuits? Oh, Nastasha, in fact, did not like the biscuits even here. I had two different styles of biscuits here, right? Or no, they made one style for me here, and they were quite good. They were a good biscuit.
+
+[27:11] They're they're inner I would call I would call uh Roberta's biscuits intermediate flaky, right? Would you call it with that? Yeah, I would agree. Yeah, intermediate flaky. Roberta's by the way, have we talked about their review on the New York Times?
+
+[27:23] No. Roberta got a stellar two-star review that basically said the food deserves uh three stars, but it's kind of like a homey atmosphere because of all the hipsters. So they got like a two-star review. Is that pretty accurate, Jack? They said the uh tasting menu deserved three stars, the regular menu is two stars, and the pizza and beer was one, so that's six by my count.
+
+[27:43] Yeah, yeah, yeah. By the way, one star, by the way, it doesn't mean that the pizza is bad, it just means it's like kind of it's pe it's pizza, it's delicious pizza, it's good pizza. It's not trying to downrate the pizza, right? So, anyway, very good review. And uh I don't think we said it, but congratulations.
+
+[27:55] We're gonna chink our glasses here. Congrat congratulations to uh Robert's and the whole team here. Uh well, I've been talking so much, I can't drink, I can only drink during the break. There, I just drank on air. Are you happy?
+
+[28:06] Okay. Oh, Bourdain's gonna love us. Okay. Um see you made me forget what the heck I was talking about. I was reading Colin's question.
+
+[28:14] Um, so he bought this rotor stator homogenizer and he's making some ioli with it. The problem was, because I gotta find his his thing here on my iPad. The problem with it was it turned green. Um and I believe we've talked about garlic uh turning green green before. Harold McGee uh wrote uh an article on it, and basically what happens is is that if you slice garlic, it's very rarely gonna turn green, or whole garlic will turn very rarely turn green unless it's cooked under very low temperatures or pickled in very specific things.
+
+[28:42] But when you puree it um as in a and a rotor stator homogenizer is gonna puree the heck out of it, right? There's an enzymatic process that goes on uh whereby you create these c uh colorless precursors that then over time or under certain cooking regimes or in certain uh pH regimes, it's acidic, go uh green. And is there any in he wants to know what causes it to go green? I just said so. Uh and uh I you know, and there's there's an article I forgot to write it down, but if you go on the on the uh on the internet, you can look up uh the the article on it.
+
+[29:16] Uh most of the research came out in the early 2000s on uh what was going on, and it's it's basically a three like a two or three-step process, enzymes and then those things interconverting later. Uh the question is is there a way to prevent this color change other than by cooking? Uh you well, no, because he wants to maintain like the flavor, he wants to retain Colin wants to retain the flavor of a fresh uncooked garlic, but he wants uh it to not turn green. Yeah, I don't think it's gonna happen. Here's what I suggest.
+
+[29:42] Uh especially because with a rotor stator, you're making such fine particle size that you're really just getting all of that stuff together. So if if ever there was a way to make something turn green, like that's the that's the way to do it. Um I don't think there's a way to to to do it, to change it. Maybe if you put it maybe extremely basic, because if acidic conditions help it, maybe basic conditions stop it. But uh again, I'm just talking right out of my uh nether regions here.
+
+[30:07] I have no idea. I have no idea. Uh I would I would do this. I would say add another flavor, let's say a green herb, blanch the green herb so it's not gonna turn brown, and then like if it has some parsley in it, then it's supposed to be green, then no one's gonna balk, right? Right.
+
+[30:23] Right? Right. Right? Okay. Uh uh I'll try and think more about that, and I'll talk to McGee because McGee, who wrote the article on it in the New York Times, is um, you know, he you know he knows a lot about that.
+
+[30:34] He's probably thought about it more than I have. The other question Colin had was uh, what is it in garlic that acts as an emulsifier? I did a quick search on this and wasn't able to find anything that specifically acts as an emulsifier. However, uh garlics do have a category of compound in them called saponins. And saponins are uh they're plant-based materials that have all kinds of different effects, but that one of them is that they're uh surfactants and they can act as emulsif emultifiers.
+
+[31:00] They're they're basically they have both a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic component on them, so they can emulsify things. So this is a straight up guess. Oh, here's here's uh here's crapopedia's definition. Uh saponins, glycosides, widely distributed in the plant kingdom, include a diverse group of components characterized by their structure containing a steroidal or uh triterpenoid uh a glycone in one or more sugar chains. Thank you, Wikipedia.
+
+[31:22] Uh anyway, uh they're in garlic and uh they can cause foaming and uh emulsification. So I'm gonna go ahead and make the straight-up guess that that is uh what's causing it. Colin also wants to know: is there any other uh good uses for the rotor state or homogenizer? Because Nathan Miravold says it's one of his favorite things that he uh has in the kitchen. Okay.
+
+[31:43] All right. Here's some things. Uh and he he calls out our uh our oyster feeding thing that uh I did back on the blog years and years ago. The oyster feeding thing is oysters die if or they their their gills clog up and they die if you try to feed them particle sizes much larger than about 10 microns, right, in size. And a vita prep blender can only really get down to about uh 20 microns or a little greater than 20 microns in size.
+
+[32:06] And so uh if you just use a blender, uh you're gonna choke out the uh the oysters if you're making something like a like a juice or something. So I basically put uh put all the juice through a rotor stator homogenizer to get the particle size small enough so I wouldn't choke out the oysters, right? Uh another use is is that the finer you emulsify something the the whiter it's gonna get and also the more stable it's gonna be. So you can use a rotor stator homogenizer to uh make a category of things that I guess Mirvold, and it makes sense because I you know I've made these things before too, called milks, where you take a small amount of fat and you'll emulsify it into a liquid in kind of the ratios that you would have in milk. So roughly like four percent fat, let's say, into uh uh into a broth, but you can do it with something like duck stock and duck fat to make duck milk, right?
+
+[32:51] That's another application for the rotor stator homogenizer. Anytime you have something that's going to uh settle out over time, you're gonna be able to make a more stable emulsion using a rotor stator homogenizer. That said, uh you can stabilize stuff with emulsifiers that we use every day, like the Arabic Xanthan mixture that we use for everything. You can stabilize pretty dang well without without using hardly anything better than a stick blender, you know, uh an immersion blender. But the flavor is gonna change somewhat based on the uh ultimate particle size.
+
+[33:19] And I believe we talked about this when Miravold was on the show a couple weeks ago, right? A little bit, because Mirvold does does like that. Um I have not done too much cool business. What did I bust that out for recently? I had to bust it out what the heck were we doing?
+
+[33:34] Oh, oh. So Tony Kanoyara, one of our good friends, uh, the uh proprietor of 69 Colbrook Row, our favorite bar in London, uses a rotor stator homogenizer to homogenize lime juice and says that it improves the flavor because he's keeping the particles in there. Also uh improves supposedly it's emulsifying ability, right? Because you're keeping all the particles in uh all the stuff in there instead of straining it out. Uh also increases his yield because he's not getting rid of that stuff that he's strained out.
+
+[34:02] Nastasha and I did some triangle tests at the Pegu Club. I haven't written it up on the blog yet. We weren't a triangle test, is when we make three things, two of which are the same and one of which are different, and we you know do the old Sesame Street, one of these kids is doing his own thing, and you try to figure out which one is different. It's a triangle test. I haven't written about it, even though we did it months ago.
+
+[34:20] Just come to jerk, I just haven't had time to write it up yet. But um we weren't able in triangle tests to distinguish them, although I'm a little bit dubious of the straight triangle test because I didn't t tell people what they were looking for, like what kind of different flavors and nuances they might be looking for, but it it might make a difference in the lime juice itself, but it's hard to tell in the drink whether that helps. But you can experiment with doing rotor stator on juices to put the pulp in and make them a little bit um a little bit, you know, different. So you can give that a try. Uh okay.
+
+[34:53] Michael Natkin writes in from Herbivoracious, which is his blog, and he says, Hey Nastasha, because he doesn't like me, so he doesn't ask me, he just wants to talk to you. Uh hey Nastasha, I've been working on how to make the most Umami packed vegetable broth possible, using a lot of ideas from both cooking issues and modernist cuisine. Uh, would you would you pass this link on to Dave? I'd love to hear any comments or suggestions he has, either by email or on the air. Well, here you are on the air.
+
+[35:16] Okay. So uh he writes uh in his blog, I looked up some stuff. Uh I'll just mention some of them. So he quotes this thing, and I've heard it before, of Heston Blumenthal saying that there's some research that Star Anis, when cooked with sulfur compounds present in onions and other alliums, released a host of new flavor chemicals that enhance umami flavors. Alright, I've heard this a couple of times, Michael.
+
+[35:35] I've not seen the research. I would love for someone to send me in the research because I wasn't able to find it and I don't know about it, although I have heard it. So please uh please send that in. So Michael further writes, uh, because he wants me to comment on it on his recipe here. Uh the vegetarian ingredients, this is Michael writing, uh, best known for high concentration of glutamates or tomatoes, dried shiitake mushrooms, marmeat, combu seaweed, and parmesan cheese.
+
+[35:58] He included the first four but omitted the parmesan because he wants to keep it vegan, uh, you know, because you know that way it's more all purpose. You know what I mean? More all purpose vegan. Uh the challenge was to find a balance for these ingredients that wouldn't allow anyone to dominate. I didn't want to taste it and say, wow, nice mushroom broth or mmm dashi.
+
+[36:13] Now, this is a huge problem, actually. Because anytime you boost uh glutamate levels to a very high level, uh, or glutamate IMP levels to a high level, you get uh a dashi like flavor. So Nastasha and I were tasting the foods of a major uh food manufacturer who was trying to re decrease the amount of sodium that they were using in their products. And the way that they uh increased uh the the palatability of these things, but at the same time decreasing the sodium, was to add potassium uh monophosphate. Uh sorry, uh potassium uh glutamate to it, right?
+
+[36:46] Uh and instead of uh instead of uh sodium uh MSG, monosodium glutamate, you add monopotassium glutamate, and you aren't adding the sodium, but you're adding the glutamate, which is the thing that's increasing the umami, right? So you can make stuff that people think is okay, even though it has less salt in it. I have two problems with this. One, salt, there's no problem with it, unless you are a very specific person that has hypertensive as a result of salt, you can have salt. Our great grandpappies and grandmammies ate so much salt that it would put us to shame because they had to preserve so many more foods than we had to because they didn't have refrigeration, right?
+
+[37:18] I have done detailed reading of as much salt literature as possible on the on the supposed deleterious effects of salt on our health. And as far as I can tell by my careful, careful, careful reading of it, they are bunk, right? They are crap. So like I I and I've had discussions with this with many scientists, and I have yet to find someone uh who has been able, and and I'm not saying I'm not a scientist, I'm just reading the stuff that's there, and by through careful reading of it, you can see that most of this information is complete bunk. Um but hey, call me and call me out on it.
+
+[37:52] Tell me I'm a jerk, but uh I'm pretty sure that uh stand okay as far as the literature is concerned. I'm not saying it's true or false, I'm saying with the literature what the literature is, and most of it's crap. Okay, so uh uh don't reduce the salt. But the other problem is that um when they do that, when they reduce the sodium and increase basically the umami by jacking up uh glutamate levels, everything tastes like dashi. So you'll have a fettuccine alfredo that tastes like dashi.
+
+[38:18] Now it's not necessarily bad. I mean, I love dashi, right? But uh, you know, I wouldn't uh you know, I don't want my fettuccine alfredo to taste like dashi, do you? No. And and and the other problem with this kind of technology, this technique of of uh reducing salt and increasing glutamate levels and things, is that everything just tastes the freaking same.
+
+[38:37] It all tastes the freaking same, like some sort of weird dashi. It's just a huge I hope, I sincerely hope that people get off this kick of trying to reduce uh salt across the board and just focus on how things taste. The reason they don't is because there's a bunch of wingdings out there who not only they think that you that people add salt to processed foods to somehow make them, I don't know, more addictive or to preserve them. People add salt to processed foods because salt makes the stuff taste better. You know what I mean?
+
+[39:08] And what happens when you when someone doesn't add enough salt to a food and you eat it, you dump freaking salt on it anyway. You know what I mean? Um I'm not gonna get into like the the thing is cooking issues position, insofar as cooking issues position is Dave Arnold's position, which I guess it is. Uh you salt to make the stuff taste good. There are situations where we salt for safety, like when we're preserving meats or or other reasons, but uh you know, when you're trying to get a bind and a sausage, salt is adding a functional thing, or salt and bread is not only taste, it's also but um you salt to make stuff taste good.
+
+[39:43] So if you don't like the tasted salt, go ahead and don't salt it. But if you like the taste, which means that you're almost all of us, salt in normal in normal amounts. Okay. Um so yes, you Michael, you do not want to make a broth that tastes uh like dashi unless you're shooting for a dashi. Okay, so his method is using a pressure cooker because uh a lot of us advocate pressure cooked stocks.
+
+[40:03] Uh so he put he uh takes a pressure cooker uh and he cooks the stuff um, including the onions and the combu and all of the other ingredients. Now I'm gonna say this. Here's my here's my uh critique of of the recipe uh insofar as it stands, uh, because he's pressure cooking everything. One, the flavor of onions is gonna be increased in sweetness but decreased in uh onion flavor by pressure cooking. So if you really want to onion up the thing and have more of a traditional onion taste, I would saute uh some onions while you're pressure cooking.
+
+[40:35] I would pressure cook the onions as well because that's delicious. But I would saute some of the onions and I would put them into the um I would put them into the broth after you pressure cook it for a couple of minutes to let some of the fresher onion flavor marry just to increase or radically increase the amount of onion that you add to your broth so it has more of a more of a direct onion profile. The second thing is um I'd be a little cautious in pressure cooking the combu. If you like the flavor of the combu pressure cooked, go ahead. I haven't done a lot of research on pressure cooking combo.
+
+[41:04] But uh combu in general, uh they tend not to like it boiled, so I would do a pre-steep of the combu in kind of uh I would do 60, uh 60 to 70 degrees Celsius water, and then remove the combu before going on to the pressure cook step. Uh I haven't, you know, done a lot of you know experiments on pressure cooking combu, but in general, that's been my experience that the higher cooked combu is, the less I like the flavor of it. Um, although I haven't done it in conjunction with all of those other ingredients, so I I don't know. I don't know exactly how it works. But anyway, those are my basic critiques on the stock.
+
+[41:38] Alright, so Nastash is telling me that we are running out of time, but I have one more question that I will get to, but I'm unfortunately gonna have to do it very quickly. Curtis writes in on ramen. I've recently been on the hunt. Good afternoon, Dave. Uh I've been uh on the hunt for recipes and tips for making Japanese ramen from scratch, both noodles and broth.
+
+[41:54] I'm having trouble finding English language resources for both the noodle and the broth, but the noodles are a bigger problem. There isn't much out there showing how the noodles are made. I've heard you can hand pull ramen noodles or you can send them through a pasta machine or even slice them with the night knife. Yet I've also heard that the dough is very dry and difficult to come together. How could you hand pull a dough of this consistency?
+
+[42:11] I also know the noodles require a product called Kansui or a mixture of potassium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate mixture. Is there any way to make this cant sue uh as it's difficult to find? Okay, you can get cansway or potassium carbonate bicarbonate at most Asian grocery stores if they're larger stocked, right? Because they have this stuff. It's basically just a base.
+
+[42:28] If you don't have that, you can use uh baking soda or you can bake out baking soda in the oven to make sodium carbonate, which McGee talks about. Uh and the base in um in it with does two things. One, it makes the noodles yellow. So you should search for yellow alkaline noodles, Y-A-N, on the web, and it'll give you a lot of information and resources on cansway and how it's used. Other than just turning the noodles yellow, it also uh makes the gluten stronger uh because in basic conditions gluten is stronger, and in acidic conditions, gluten is weaker.
+
+[42:59] This is why sourdough breads are slack, right? And uh and the yellow alkaline noodles are very toothy and have a lot of bite because you're shifting the pH. So there's two main functions. It increases the bite of the noodle by increasing the pH, and it also turns them yellow uh by the way it affects uh wheat protein. Certain wheats turn more yellow than others.
+
+[43:17] So those are the two main functions of can sue. You can substitute any base you want. They do add base to hand pulled noodles a little bit, and I don't know why. The whole way, and I've had this argument with many people, including Dave Chang, who was interested in doing hand-pulled noodles uh at the same time who's interested in doing ramen. Uh, hand-pulled noodles are all about kneading for such a long time that you obliterate the gluten.
+
+[43:37] You obliterate its ability to uh basically be snappy because you need it to pull without snapping. Gluten, you pull it and it forms that sheet, that window, but it does have a bit of a short texture, it'll pull apart. So uh I don't know why you would uh I don't know why the addition of cansway is written in all the recipes. It must have something where you develop the gluten more quickly with the cansway, and then it breaks apart when you hand pull them. But as far as I can tell, and someone call me in and tell me I'm a jerk, but uh can sway um ramen is not a hand pulled uh situation.
+
+[44:09] Hand pulled noodles don't have the bite of a ramen noodle. Hand pulled noodles, I'm not gonna go so far as to say they're mushy, but they're definitely don't have the same tooth that a uh cansway uh you know yellow alkaline noodle is gonna have, which is all about the tooth and the bite. Now, as for ramen, the way it's typically made industrially is it's extruded through dyes into uh thin strips, it's then steamed, right? Uh and after it's steamed, it's fried. So the main characteristics of a of a noodle, no matter what shape you make them, ramen, you could make them in a pasta machine if you want them, or hand cut them.
+
+[44:41] If you want to know how to be a really baller hand cutter of noodles, go to a different technology, soba. Uh and when you're hand cutting noodles in soba, the whole trick with cutting soba, other than buying the really expensive, awesome soba knife, which looks insane, like an executioner's it looks like an executioner's ax axe with instead of a handle, you hold it at the top, is uh they put a board on top of the noodles exactly flat. You stick the knife down, and you never the the blade never leaves contact with the board. You angle the blade ever so slightly, which pushes the board over exactly one noodle length, and then with a width rather, and without removing the knife from the board, you pull up the blade, put it perpendicular and slice down and keep going. That's how you slice butt-kicking hand hand butt kicking hand uh cut soba noodles.
+
+[45:23] You could do the same with a yellow alkaline noodle, but I don't think it's very traditional. You could also put it through a pasta machine. Um but the key thing is steam, then fry to finish the dehydration out, and there you have ramen. Uh uh, if you need more information or if you want a specific thing, I can look more into it for you, but that's the way she goes. And this has been the fifty third episode of Cooking Issues.
+
+[45:56] Oh, you didn't score. This is a message from Fork and Anchor. Aaron Fitzpatrick, the host of our wine program, Unfiltered, is looking for help on Kickstarter to open Fork and Anchor, a general store inspired by two food-loving ladies with an equal affection for urban life, the sea, and the agricultural paradise of Long Island's North Fork. The store is situated in a growing community of farmers and winemakers and will become a meeting place offering prepared foods, a variety of sun-dries, and a selection of homespun products, many of which will have their origins in New York State. Your backing will help them fulfill their dream of fostering relationships with the community and making the local food system accessible on a broader scale.
+
+[46:39] Search Kickstarter.com for Fork and Anchor and donate today.
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+[0:00] Racketon opens up a world of rewards. You can earn cash back on fashion, beauty, electronics, pet supplies, kids' stuff, groceries. But what I'm here to tell you is with Rackiton, you get cash back on travel too. Join and save on your next trip. You'll get cash back on the flight, the hotel, and the car rental.
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+[0:20] Book on your favorite travel sites like Expedia, Booking.com, Viator, Verbo, Hotels.com, IHG, and more. Save on cruises, vacation packages, and experiences as well. And don't worry, cash back can be earned on top of your credit card points and with many loyalty programs. Because we know you're saving every way you can. So go ahead.
+
+[0:43] Take a trip. Find that perfect hotel. Book an artisan cheese experience inside a cave in Spain. Wherever you want to go, go with Racketton. Join today for free.
+
+[0:53] Go to Rackiton.com or get the app. That's R A K-U-T-E-N. Broadcasting live from Robertas in Bushwick, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. I'm Sam Edwards.
+
+[1:15] I'm third generation CureMaster from S. Wallace Edwards and Sons in Surrey, Virginia. We support the Heritage Radio Network because we believe in the cause and what they're doing. They're supporting family raised uh livestock, small family farms, uh certified humane, pasture raised, antibiotic free. Basically, we take the products from Heritage Food USA and make them into uh Serrano style hands, prosciutto style hands, bacon, sausage like my grandfather did.
+
+[1:44] You can find us at SurreyFarms.com or Virginia Traditions.com. Ah, Joe Pepper. Ah, buggy. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from 12 to 1245 approximately in the studio today in Bushwick with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, who's looking up some last minute questions that you guys have sent in.
+
+[2:17] How are you doing, Nastasha? I'm fine. It's a c yeah, right, you sound really fine. I'm fine. Anyway, it's a crappy day out here in Bushwick, and I had a crappy bike ride, but I won't talk about it.
+
+[2:27] I won't bore you with it. Uh call in all of your questions to 718 497 2128. That's 718497-2128 for all of your questions. Cooking or not really, uh tech or not. Any questions, we'll take 'em.
+
+[2:39] Anyway, first question in on the email is from Mike Anonymous. Oh shoot. I should talk about uh today's sponsor. Today's sponsor uh is the same sponsor as last week, which is the Modernist Pantry. I'll read their little blurb uh because I'm obliged, and then I'm gonna talk about it a little bit.
+
+[2:54] Um whether you're looking for hydrocolloids, pH modifiers, or even meat glue, you'll find it at Modernist Pantry. And if you need something that they don't carry, just ask. Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you. With worldwide shipping, Modernist Pantry is your one-stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients. Fans of cooking issues oh, uh by the way.
+
+[3:11] So this is last week we ran a promotion, and so rather than read the little same blurb because it's the same thing as that. I'm gonna give a follow-up. Uh Chris wrote in to us and said, We got a good response from last week's show. Uh he says we have a group of avid fans from around the world following us. That's very gratifying, right, Nastasha?
+
+[3:26] Yeah. Yeah. Yeah, she's she doesn't care. She's doing something else. Uh, since a bunch of people didn't hear the podcast in time to take advantage of the free meat glue, Modernist Pantry is gonna run the special again this week and leave it opening until leave it open until next week's show.
+
+[3:38] So all of you that call in for this entire week until next Tuesday's podcast can get uh the free sample of meat glue from Modernist Pantry. And the code that you need to enter, the promo code is CI, as in cooking issues, 54. That's CI 54. Uh and please let uh let them know that you uh oh also tell them, you know, obviously they know that you listen to the show if you put in CI 54. Tell your buddies too.
+
+[4:03] It's gonna make it seem like we have a lot of listeners. Um, in addition, we mentioned last week we were hoping that they were gonna be able to get Pectanex SPL, which is the miracle enzyme that we use for almost everything. We use it for clarification, either with or without a centrifuge. Although it really only clarifies uh thinner juices like apple juice without a centrifuge. Uh we use it for French fries, make them really crispy, and we use it for uh auto-suppremming citrus and things like that.
+
+[4:29] Uh they're gonna be carrying that uh in a week or so. They don't have a pre-order page yet up, but keep your eyes peeled because they're gonna start carrying it, which is really great because we hate uh carrying that stuff, right, Nastasha? Yeah, we do. You can still get it uh for the current time being through uh through the FCI through the French Culinary contact uh Airvay Malavare, but I'm looking forward to a worldwide supply in small quantities from Chris Anderson at the Modernist Pantry. So thanks, guys, and make sure to go to www.modernpantry.com, modernist pantry.com, and type in cooking issues, CI 54.
+
+[5:03] 54? Yes. 54 for your free meat glue sample. Anyway, uh first question in is from Mike Anonymous. We've gotten stuff from Mike Anonymous before, right?
+
+[5:13] Yes. It's a good name. Wouldn't it be awesome if that was his actual name, Mike Anonymous? That would suck growing up, right? No, that's my name.
+
+[5:19] Anyway, okay. Uh Mike says, I would like to hear your thoughts on what new technologies we can expect to find in the home kitchen in the near future. I'm particularly interested in your thoughts on induction burners as I hope to update my stove in the near future. Sincerely, Mike Anonymous. Okay, interesting question.
+
+[5:34] I get this question actually quite a bit. Uh I'm, you know, for a living, I'm mainly concerned with what goes on in restaurant kitchens, but I also am interested in what's going on in home kitchens. Here's what I think. Here's what here's what I think. Regarding induction burners, they're awesome.
+
+[5:50] Uh they are really, really awesome. They had there's a number of problems with induction burners that have stopped them from becoming kind of uh, you know, set from saturating the market. If you currently own an electric stove, if you don't have gas, the very next thing you should do after listening to this podcast is go home, tear out your electric range, whether it be a ceramic top or you know, one of those little curly, curly resistance heater jobs, tear it out of the wall and throw it away and buy an induction unit. Right now. I mean, like before you do anything else, because if you're already running electric for your range, you have no excuse.
+
+[6:25] Electric is expensive. It uh it's very inefficient compared to an induction burner, and it heats up your kitchen, and it also takes a long time to heat up and cool down. It has a weird porpoise effect. I detest cooking with normal uh electric ranges. And if you've never used an induction burner before, they're kind of miraculous.
+
+[6:44] They um they heat up almost instantly and they cool off almost instantly. Uh and you know, everyone's like, me, well, maybe my pots won't work. Me, me, me. You can buy a little slug of iron, uh Kuhn Recon sells one, for instance, that you could put right on top of an induction burner and turn any pot, a clay pot, an aluminum pot, whatever, into an induction friendly pot. And uh, if you factor in the cost of uh a range and the kind of electrical savings and the fact that you won't be air conditioned in your house to make up for the fact that you're dumping all the extra heat into the house, um, it really saves money in the long run, even if you have to get rid of a few pots and pans.
+
+[7:20] So if you're already electric, please go get an induction right now. If you run gas, there's a couple of problems with induction. One, we are kind of the Saudi Arabia of natural gas. We have natural gas leaking out of our pipelines. Like we have so much natural gas that you know your local utility can't even tell if there's an appreciable amount leaking just because it's dribbling everywhere.
+
+[7:41] It's preposterously cheap natural gas in this country. If you live outside of this country in Europe, for instance, or I don't know what the situation is elsewhere where natural gas is a lot more expensive and electric is more competitive from a from a uh you know, from an energy standpoint, energy uses standpoint, also you should move to induction right away. In the US, um gas is so cheap uh that it's kind of hard from an economic standpoint to make the jump right away. Now, induction is faster, as fast as gas. Let's put it that way.
+
+[8:10] Uh, and in some cases, faster, because you're directly heating the uh the pot instead of having gas heat the pot. Um, it's incredibly more efficient than gas. So for a smaller amount of energy usage, you're getting uh a lot more heat on the pot. So we we have a standard kind of commercial style uh range in our amphitheater at school, and we put uh like kind of a standard home induction unit next to uh the commercial range, and the home induction unit boils water faster than the range does. So you really can't compare BTUs of gas output to how many watts are going into your induction burner.
+
+[8:42] You need to compare how fast they boil water. And a decent sized induction burner is usually faster than a decent sized gas burner, and typically doesn't heat up your house a lot. So it's fantastic that way. But it has a disadvantage that gas is a lot cheaper. Also, people aren't used to using an induction burner and they can't see kind of how much power they're putting into it, so there's a little bit of a learning curve.
+
+[8:59] And the other problem is inductions are a lot more fragile. A gas unit is never going to break. And you might have to remount the gas jets or whatever, but basically that sucker is going to work from now until your kids are old. Do you know what I mean? And so those are the two main things.
+
+[9:17] But I really, really like induction. Was that call for us? No. Just a random call. You forgot to turn off your phone?
+
+[9:24] Yeah. Really? All right. In terms of other things that are uh good for uh home kitchen, I sincerely hope that um sous vide is going to become more popular, actually, low temperature cooking. I can't believe I made that mistake of all people.
+
+[9:39] Uh low temperature cooking is going to be more important. And I'm hoping that a lot of people have circulators. I'm hoping circulators, immersion circulators come down in price simply because when you throw a party, they make you look like a complete rock star because you don't have to spend a lot of time in a kitchen while your guests are there. The food comes out always perfect, always good. I love them.
+
+[9:58] I use them all the time. I used one last night, I used one this weekend. At home, I'm talking. I use my circulator all the time. For reheating, also, it's very good because it's not going to ruin your food on a reheat.
+
+[10:08] The problem with it is not only the $800 price tag. The uh problem is that you know, there's not that many cookbooks and sources out there. I mean, our blog, I'm supposed to write more on this subject, but it's not as many recipes out there as there could be, and not as much knowledge as there could be. And part of the problem is that it's hard to get a major publisher to put out kind of a simpler book because not that many people have the unit yet. It's kind of a catch 22.
+
+[10:34] So you know, you don't want to come out with a book that then requires you to buy an 800 piece of dollar piece of equipment to own the book, and you know, so it's one of these like chicken egg problems. Uh, but you know, I think there's enough information there on the internet, enough early adopters and people who are willing to experiment that within 10 years you're gonna see circulators drop in price again and also become a lot more common in home kitchens because they're really good in home kitchens for the same reason they're good in a restaurant kitchen. You're gonna mess up your food less often, you're gonna have more control, delicious results, uh without a lot of time when you wanna be eating with your family. So I think that's gonna be uh a huge thing. As for other innovations in the in the home, I mean, I don't know.
+
+[11:14] I mean, I hope that our refrigerators and freezers get better, right? Although, I have you know, for those of you that have never been in a professional kitchen before, commercial fridges and freezers typically, there's a couple exceptions. Like I like the guys at Randall's, they're the worst. They break all the time, they're loud and they're completely inefficient. So home fridges and freezers are actually uh already quite good compared to commercial ones, but I think they have a long way to go.
+
+[11:35] I'm hoping more people have really butt-kicking blenders in their house, which we're gonna talk more about blenders in a minute. Anything else you can think of that we usually harp on, Nastasha? No, I think you covered it. Yeah? Yeah, nothing else.
+
+[11:46] I mean, I really you know, you guys like in the home, no one's gonna go. I mean, look, should should you get liquid nitrogen if you have uh a lot of parties in an outdoor space? I mean, yeah, I mean, you need to follow the safety rules. But I like liquid nitrogen a lot. Do I think it's gonna be in everybody's house?
+
+[11:59] No. Uh everyone who drinks seltzer should have a professional carbonation rig right now. Like if look, if let me put it this way: if you carry more than one case of seltzer home a week, you should get a professional seltzer rig or at least one of those soda streams tomorrow. First do the induction. After you get the induction squared away, tomorrow go out and get the uh carbonation rig.
+
+[12:18] I'm trying to think of what else I have. Most people aren't gonna get commercial units, uh uh you know, restaurant units in their home like I have. Most people aren't gonna get a large deep fryer at home, although I love mine, I have a 35-pound deep fryer and a fry like a mammogramma much better than a home fryer, but I don't think people are gonna get that. I don't think most people are gonna get the $400 blender, although I advocate it, right? Um in the future, there might be a one-stop machine that can be a really good rice cooker and a pressure cooker.
+
+[12:43] That might be good. Save some countertop space. But you know, people aren't gonna get freeze dryers and homogenizers and all that stuff at home just because there's not as many applications. There's not a um, they don't warrant the counter space and the time uh and you know the energy involved. You know what I mean?
+
+[12:57] Yes. Yes, now my iPad turned off, so I have to go find the next question. Uh okay. Well, I do have a question on blenders. Should I take the question on blenders or should we go to the first commercial break, you think?
+
+[13:09] I'll take the question on blenders, and if I have to run long, I'll run long. Okay. So uh a big hello from James in Australia to the entire cooking issues team. And by the way, James wrote in a question and then answered the question and then asked a separate question. So I'm just gonna go over the question.
+
+[13:22] We'll see how see how it works out. James is after a new blender, but down in Australia, Vitapeps, which are the blenders that we use up here in New York and all of the US, really. Vitapeps are insanely expensive, like more than 1,200 bucks, uh, which is slightly less than the uh polyscience uh immersion circulators cost over there. And um there is no secondhand market, which there really isn't. People don't tend to give up their Vitapeps unless they're dead, unless they're broken.
+
+[13:45] Um a home style model is uh a Vitapep because Vitapep makes a home version and a and a commercial version. You know what the difference is? Almost nothing except the warranty. They give you a crappier warranty on the commercial unit because they know that you're gonna beat the ever-loving crap out of it. Anyway, uh the home unit is just under $1,000.
+
+[14:03] My other options are a home grade uh blend Tech, which is another good blender, uh, that comes in around $800. But there's a locally made option, a Breville, that's about $250, which is also available in the U.S. It's $2,000 watts, 500 watts more powerful than the Blend Tech and the Consumer Vitamixes. And so the question is basically and it's the hemisphere model of Breville. I'm gonna have a lot to say about this.
+
+[14:25] And then he basically. So he comes up with another one later called a uh Samic. Uh is that what it called? You gotta find it for me, Nastasha. It's called a C Mac, which is from Australia, C Mac Blender, which looks like a really professional kind of butt-kicking unit, which is I think what he's gonna go after.
+
+[14:43] And his question is basically what's the difference between all these blenders? What the hell is the deal with blenders anyway? How to choose a blender, etc., etc., etc. Okay. So the reason we like Vitapeps in this country is twofold.
+
+[14:56] One, uh they are strong, they're very powerful, especially the new Vitapep 3s, and they have an even more monster one that's that's very very powerful. You can't go on wattage rating alone. The wattage is kind of a BS unit, uh, a B a BS unit of measure of how that's basically just saying how much energy is it sucking out of the wall. If you put uh you know, a thousand watt light bulb on uh on a wire and then attached a 200 watt motor to it and hooked that up to a blender, you know what you have there? A 1200 watt blender, even though you're throwing away a thousand watts of that as light and heat.
+
+[15:28] You get what I'm saying? So don't take the wattage as the as the rating. What you really care about is how much power is the blender delivering to your food. Um, and you know, that basically translates into how fast is the tip of the blade moving relative to the food that you're blending. And we talked a little bit about this last week when we were talking about rotor state or homogenizers, and they put so much more energy into your food because they can uh stop your food from moving so that you can smack it with a moving blade, right?
+
+[15:57] So we talked a little bit about why a rotor state or homogenizer for a given amount of uh wattage energy you're putting into it can deliver more uh shearing power onto onto your food. So don't go directly on um, don't go directly on the wattage. What you have to figure out is what the speed of the blade is going to be under load, right? That's really the important thing. And Vitapep does very, very well at that.
+
+[16:21] Uh blend tech does very, very well at that as well, which is another unit you can get in the US. It actually has a slightly wider blade than most Vitapeps, and I think it's a better tip speed, so theoretically gets a better uh better product. But here's where Vitapep really wins uh over all other blenders in the US that I've used so far, and that is the user interface. If you're making smoothies all day, right, you want to press a button and you want to have that smoothie just get made, and it's gonna go through a bunch of profiles to make sure that thing gets blended properly, and you don't want to have to scoop and mix around with all kinds of things. Um, blend techs are great at that because they're designed for juice bars, and that's why they have a lock on a lot of the juice bar market in the US, because any monkey can throw a bunch of bananas into a blend tech along with some protein powder and a bunch of other crap, press a button and walk away, and you get a smoothie that's smooth that doesn't have a lot of chunks and particles in it, right?
+
+[17:14] Vitapeps, on the other hand, typically they used to have a kind of a bad uh blender pitcher style that required you to use a tamper to kind of move things around, otherwise it tends to choke up at the base, right? Uh and which is kind of unfortunate. Um, the benefit of that choked up base on a blender at the bottom of a Vitaprep that people don't talk about is that you can get a smaller amount of liquid to blend properly in a Vitapep than you can in the equivalent blend Tech because you have to fill the blend Tech up above the blade level before it starts blending properly, and it's a much wider area down there than it is in the Vitapep. But that said, if you're gonna blend a whole bunch, the Vita uh the Blend Tech has a better geometry at the bottom of its uh uh the bottom of its picture to get the stuff going. Vitapep has a new uh pitcher that is that has a similar geometry.
+
+[17:56] Anyway, that's you know a little bit here or there. But where the Vitapep really wins is on that interface. It's got two flap switches and a knob. When you're a cook, you don't wanna have to have your boss come in and program I'm gonna make a pesto into your freaking blender. You wanna have a switch so that you can ring and then go in high and spin it high when you're going.
+
+[18:16] That's what you really want. And Vitapep is the best at giving you immediate feedback with uh you know a potentiometer knob that tells you uh you know that lets you set exactly how fast you want it to be at this minute. Flip it between high and low with big old-style goofy paddle switches with very minimal electronics, right? And that's really where the Vita prep is awesome. Even though that uh that little potentiometer thing goes crappy a lot, and you have to replace them after a couple of years, they start getting all wonky on you, and then you'll turn it on and it'll bring without you turning it.
+
+[18:46] Everybody hates that, and you'll eventually spray stuff all over your ceiling. The user interface is so good that people love it. And this is why, and I called the guys at Blentec, frankly, uh maybe five years ago, four years ago, and I was like, look, you have an awesome piece of equipment, your user interface sucks. What you need to do is build a unit for chefs that just has a knob and a and you know, and two buttons like the Vitaprep has. And they said, Yeah, but this really gives control to I was like, listen, shut up.
+
+[19:10] I'm telling you, a cook wants two flip switches and a knob to change the speed. So anyway, uh the C Mac unit looks very good. Uh it is also completely electronically controlled, so I'm sure it does really well in the juice market. You know, uh James said that he's, you know, he said that basically all of the reviews he gets off of are raw on vegan like websites and kind of you know impugns their their taste a little bit because they've already made such a poor life choice and being a raw vegan, does his words not mine. Uh and while that might be true, James, they are like raw vegan people know a boatload about juicing because they have a whole subculture that basically turns everything they eat into a liquid and drinks their food in liquid form.
+
+[19:49] So whether or not you agree with their life choices, they know from juicing and blending. And the Australian website that uh he sent me to, which is uh uh battle of the blenders pumpkin, if you want to look it up on the uh on the internets and the YouTube. And the Australian dude in that actually has a really nice term for instead of high speed blenders, he calls them power blenders, which I really like because it makes it makes it seem like your blender is a puny blender, unless it's a power blender, right? So he re has this one, this Australian one called C Mac. And if there's anyone in Australia, I would love to try a C Mac.
+
+[20:19] Like, I don't know if I ever get to Australia or if anyone ever wants to send one to us, I'd love to try it. It basically electronically senses uh whether or not you're blending properly and adjusts the speed automatically. And while that sounds great, I still want the control. I want the flap doodle and the control. So I'd love to be able to have that electronic BS, but I'd love to also be able to shoot it in the head and be able to run my blender like a normal blender.
+
+[20:39] The other one, uh also from down under, but available here that he mentions, is Breville. Breville makes a good quality blender. I'll tell you a little story about this. I was doing a demo with Chris Young in Florida for the Miami uh food and what's it called? South Beach Food and Winefest.
+
+[20:51] South Beach Food and Winefest with Chris Young from the Myers Cuisine. And this lady, we were we were fluffing, we were f you know, fluffing for uh a bunch of food network stars like Giata and stuff. This little kid comes up and he's like, he they she raises her hand. I think she's got a question from me or for Chris. We're like, yes, little girl, what's going on?
+
+[21:06] She's saying, I made this pasta necklace for Giada. And I'm like, oh geez. And then so I so I had to save the pasta necklace. And I mean, I I couldn't tell the kid, listen, I've never met Giotta, and they're gonna hustle my butt out of here and like you know, basically flush me down the toilet before they bring Giotto on with her entourage. But I was like, look, kid, I'll leave the pasta necklace around this thing, and I'm sure Giada will see it.
+
+[21:25] So hopefully Giada got her pasta necklace. Anyway, that's aside the point. Breville was sponsoring one of the things there, and they had the rep there, and they show me the blender pitcher, and she says to me, 'You can't break it. Go ahead, try to break it.' I said, Really? She's like, Yeah, and this lady had never met me before.
+
+[21:41] So I said, Okay, all right then. So I put it on the ground and I jumped up as high as I could and stomped on the blender like three and four times. Uh, and I was able to shave a portion of the blender off because it was on concrete. So I was able to shave a corner off of the blender pitcher, but the blender pitcher did in fact not break. So, one of their marketing claims is that the blender pitcher is very strong, and indeed it is.
+
+[22:02] Whether or not the blender itself it can get close to a vita prep, I don't know. I've seen some favorable reviews, but I've never actually blended with it because we didn't have the stuff on hand to uh blend. And those are my feelings on blending. Oh, by the way, one more thing. Do not read any any magazine out there, whether or not they're my friends, like popular mechanics, they're a friend of mine.
+
+[22:22] Uh, you know, I've worked with them. Um, you know, Cooks Illustrated, I'm fine with those guys. Never believe anyone's blender ratings. They don't know what the hell they're talking about. They give you stupid reasons to like or dislike a blender.
+
+[22:34] The only thing that matters is can it take can it take uh a sauce that you would have had to strain through a Tammy and make it so that it's silky, smooth and delicious? Can it get the particle size down below or close to about 20 microns so that you taste this stuff as being smooth? And very few blenders can do that. The blend tech can do it, the Vitaprep can do it. I'm assuming that this C Mac uh can do it.
+
+[22:58] I don't know if the Brevel can do it, but it's not whether or not it can make a margarita because in a kitchen that's not really the test we care about. It's can it make a sauce smooth? So we'll take a commercial break break, think about blenders, and we'll be back. Freaks fly together. All right, turn it up now.
+
+[23:44] Turn it up now. What up to the camping? She's always collapse. I just want to watch your dance. Alright.
+
+[24:05] Turn it up now. Turn it up now. Do you want to ride on the clouds and see? I'll be a mistress C O D. Cold the hell be that you'd say to me.
+
+[24:27] Or shell me on the honey beat. She can bring it to me. She can really do me. She can look back through me. And make all the baby boss screen.
+
+[24:57] And welcome back to Cooking Issues. Call all of your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. That song goes out to Colin because uh Nastasha has broken some secret code in Colin's messages when he comes in that he likes that song. Is that true or false?
+
+[25:14] You know, Nastasha's good at those secret codes. But here is uh longtime listener Colin's questions. On the ultrasonic homogenizer, by the way, an ultrasonic homogenizer is something that vibrates uh very rapidly. It uses a piezo, uh like a pisotransducer, vibrate very rapidly. And uh you can use it for a couple of things.
+
+[25:31] One, you can make an ultrasonic fog with it, which is how humidifiers work. You can um you can clean jewelry with it by shaking with it. That's how an ultrasonic jewelry uh thing works. A homogenizer uses very focused, high power sonic energy to uh cavitate, make little bubbles, and actually rupture things. So that's what an ultrasonic homogenizer is.
+
+[25:50] I have one, and when you run them, people run screaming from the kitchen because they make horrible, horrible, horrible, horrible noise. Yeah? Horrible. Nustacha's nodding, yes. Okay.
+
+[26:01] Colin wants to know could one use an ultrasonic homogenizer such as a Branson uh or the new poly science sonic prep, which I'm sure is a relabeled Branson, uh, because not very many people make these things, uh, as a highly effective toothbrush. As the only rigid bodies in the mouth uh full of soft matter, the tooth uh as the only rigid bodies in a mouthful of soft matter, the two services would likely get the most cavitation action. You can safely immerse your hand into an ultrasonic bath, so I was wondering if the more sensitive skin on the mouth might fare as well. Obviously, you'd reduce the wattage, uh, so it acts more of uh of a cleaner than a dismembrator, which is something that takes the membranes off of cells, which is another thing they call them sonic dismembrators. Uh I would certainly work better than those tongue scrapers and would cavitate the bits, bits of mixed business from between uh one's teeth better than floss.
+
+[26:46] Modernist chefs would have no more excuses for halatosis, praise the day. Uh, and he's wondering if this is true or false. Don't do that, Colin. Don't do that. Colin, don't do that.
+
+[26:56] Um, look, I have uh one, and you know, I ha I had for a while until it broke an ultrasonic toothbrush, but they're basically vibrating very softly. If you take an ultrasonic homogenizer, and and it's a demo I used to do to show not to mess around with them, uh, I would take the probe and stick it into a dish towel and fire it up, and it would catch the dish towel on fire from the friction of it going back and forth. So, I mean, you could theoretically hook a rubber toothbrush sucker up to it and uh turn the power way down, but then you're dealing with like a two thousand dollar piece of equipment that you're turning into a um, you know, into a uh, you know, a $50 toothbrush. They make, like you can buy like a $50 or an $80 ultrasonic toothbrush. And I would definitely go that way.
+
+[27:41] Never stick an ultrasonic homogenizer in your mouth for any reason under any circumstance. And this is again not one of those Jack, we were supposed to have like a noise that meant Dave is serious this time or something like that, but we never got it. Dave is serious this time, never stick an ultrasonic homogenizer in your mouth. Uh okay. H.
+
+[27:58] Montaire writes in about uh whipped cream. Is there a way to make heat-resistant whipped cream that will hold its shape when put into something hot, like a canal or a soup? Yes. You like that, Nastasha? Yes.
+
+[28:11] One of my famous one-word answers. Okay, here's the issues. Um this is the typical thing that that you have to do. When you're using a hydrocolloid, which is new aid thickener or gelling agent, right? You you're looking for right now the thing to keep it keep it hot.
+
+[28:25] Whipped cream itself doesn't stay when you put it into hot things. So what you need to do is make the flavor of whipped cream using an entirely different technology. So the question is, and this is basically so when Wiley's doing his fried mayonnaise, what does he do? He makes something that's not mayonnaise that tastes like mayonnaise, that has the texture of mayonnaise, right? But is in fact a fluid gel made out of gel-an that's heat stable.
+
+[28:52] So it's texture of mayonnaise in a heat stable form, right? And he can flavor it however he wants. So he does the same thing with Hollandaise. He has flavor of Hollandaise in a heat-stable form, which happens to be a fluid gel. Now, you could make a cream-flavored fluid gel out of gel-an, for instance.
+
+[29:09] You could then whip that in an ISI maker, right? And you could have a very creamy mousse, or you uh, you know, something like that. So you would make a mousse that's whipped with a whipped cream kind of a texture to it, that's either a fluid gel or even like a set mousse using a gel, uh, and you and and make it heat stable. But without actually running the tests, I don't know what's gonna make the most whipped cream texture. So you might be best off with uh like a gel-an fluid gel stabilized whipped cream, right?
+
+[29:38] So you could take a gel-an fluid gel, mix it into regular whipped cream, whip it, and then see whether it'll hold when it's hot or whether the fat will bleed out. You might have to um actually whip cream, uh like over whip, like you have to the problem is you have to stabilize it so it doesn't over whip. So you'd have to use like a light cream, maybe whip it with a Versa whip and set it with another gel that sets when it's hot, like you could set it almost like a mousse with like a with uh with gel in or with something else and that's heat stable, agar maybe, and set it and see what's going on. Uh so there's a number of different um things you can do, but whipped cream itself isn't gonna stabilize. You're gonna basically have the flavor and texture of whipped cream using an entirely different method of setting.
+
+[30:18] Um so you'd have to run a whole bunch of different tests, but that's how I'd go about uh kind of setting up the experiment if you're gonna do it. Is that making any sense, Nastasha? Yes. Well, it does because she has to listen to me talk about this crap all the time. So I'm sure this stuff makes some sort of sense to her anyway.
+
+[30:33] Uh okay. Um so uh we have when is it Nastasha? When's our museum event? Thursday, September 29th, from 7 to the 10 p.m. Right.
+
+[30:44] At Ma Pesh. At Mopesh at the uh at the restaurant Mapesh, which is on We're basically taking it over. It's on uh 50 six. Is there a party going on in our background? Do you hear that on the headphones?
+
+[30:58] It's really loud. 50 15 West 56th Street between 5th and 6. Alright, so Mapesh, we're taking over. There's a bar uh at the mesmine level when you walk in, and we have an upper story at the hotel. Apparently the hotel is called the Hotel Chambers, it's not called the Mapesh Hotel, although you could have fooled me.
+
+[31:14] Anyway, so uh we're gonna have an event there. There's gonna be five uh bartenders. And do we have the fifth one yet or no? No, it might be you, it might be Don Lee. It might be me.
+
+[31:26] Don, if you're listening, we want it to be you because I want to try and get out of one of these events without actually having to make a cocktail. But we have uh so maybe Don Lee, right? Who else we have? We have Evan Clem. Uh-huh.
+
+[31:36] We have Kenta. Kent Agotha from uh from uh he's actually the the best bartender in the world. He won that last universe, actually, right. Assuming that there's no other good mixed drinks anywhere, you know, wherever there's intelligent life, assuming they don't have mixed drinks there. You know, which is a fair shot.
+
+[31:50] Uh the best bartender in the universe won that at the uh at the tails of the cocktail this year. Uh who else we have? We have Um Chad and Christy. Oh, yeah, Chad, uh Chad Solomon, Christy Pope. And Jason.
+
+[32:01] Jason Latrell, right? Uh is that five? Yeah. You sure I'm not missing anyone? And the gimmick on this one, get the gimmick is uh if cocktails were street food from X, right?
+
+[32:14] So we have uh absolute vodka, so that would be if cocktails are street food from Sweden. And where what else we have? We have we have uh Bombay East, that's I don't know whether Jason's gonna choose Vietnam or Thailand because they the thing they add to Bombay East is either Vietnamese peppercorn or Thai uh lemongrass. And what are the other ones we have? We have uh Hendrix, Hendrix, which we're doing England because gin, right?
+
+[32:35] And we couldn't do two gin from anyway. Anyway, whatever. Next 901. 901 Mexico. Uh-huh.
+
+[32:41] What did you say absolute? It's absolute. But we didn't get all five. I know we're missing one. Someone's gonna get mad at us.
+
+[32:46] Yeah, I know. Someone's gonna oh uh makers. Makers mark from the United States of America. Giving that one to Chad and Christy because of their southern heritage. Anyway, there are still slots available if you want to go next week, and you should go to what website to do that.
+
+[33:00] HTTP uh colon backslash backslash mofed membership.eventbrite.com. But I guess you could just do mofad membership.eventbrite.com, right? Right. And come prepared to spend some freaking money because we're gonna have a donation bucket and we're also gonna have an auction. And what we're trying to do is keep the museum of food and drink afloat.
+
+[33:19] Uh you can go look at the last post we have for the last fundraiser, which was a serious, serious event. This one's gonna be just cocktails, but we hope it's gonna be a lot of fun. I don't hope it's gonna be a lot of fun. Do we have an do we know anyone that's gonna show up? I'm not gonna give away.
+
+[33:31] We're gonna try to get some nice special guests that you can mingle with if you come to the event, correct? Yes. All right. Uh so uh a note of what I am doing today. Uh well, actually, we didn't talk about uh Bordain chute, right?
+
+[33:45] You didn't talk about Harvard, you didn't talk about Bordane shoot, yeah. We allow to talk about the Bourdain shoot? Mm-hmm. Is half of your earphone broken? Folks out there, half of my earphones broken, so it feels really weird.
+
+[33:52] I feel like I'm about to I'm constantly turning around my microphone like uh oh, there we go. Um so uh last week we did the Tony Bourdain shoot, and the theory of this was for no reservations was this Christmas show. And so I said I didn't want to do an ancient Christmas dinner because really I didn't think Christmas was so important as an ancient dinner source, so I wanted to do what what would Jesus have eaten or what would Mary and Joseph is what I was thinking eaten around their birthday. And the research we did was pretty uh was pretty I thought pretty interesting. We found out that they used an oven in the in that in that era in that zone in Palestine, very similar to an Indian tandoor oven of today.
+
+[34:29] And in fact, that style of oven uh was widespread all the way from India where it's popular today, up through uh, you know, like where you know Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, all that stuff is, all the way over through the Middle East and all the way over into Africa. So they had this huge range where this oven, and it's basically a like a conical vessel that you fire from the bottom and you load from the top uh was uh was basically used throughout this region. So I thought that was awesome. And I've always wanted a tandoor. So Cliff and Piper uh and I, two, you know, two of my ex-interns, uh, built a tandoor like in like three hours from crap that we could find at the hardware store.
+
+[35:07] First, we called all these places, can you get us a tandoor? Can you get us a tandoor? And they're like, it was a thousand bucks in like two weeks to wait. So I was like, crap on that. We build it from flower pots and sand, and actually, you can find on the internets, uh, if you just look up flower pot tandoor and any of the make sites, you'll can figure out how to make a flower pot tandoor.
+
+[35:21] And that thing worked straight up great. We used a uh I you know, frankly, it was delicious, right? We also made uh we we made pigeon, because one of the things that uh Mary when you know when when Jesus was born, did I go through this last week? I think you did. When G okay, so anyway, when Jesus shoot.
+
+[35:37] Uh well when anyway, so we cooking this pigeon because you know, when Jesus was born, they gave pigeons to sacrifice to the priests, you know, etc. Uh so we cooked pigeon and we boiled the pigeon in chicken stock first. And uh, which was typical for what they would have done. We didn't boil it, we did it about a hundred and hundred and forty degrees or so just to kind of like start the cook off in the chicken stock. And uh we then rubbed it with cumin and fennel, which are two spices they would have had.
+
+[36:01] We koshered it beforehand so it was nice and salty. We did the official koshering technique, which is soak it in water, like rub salt all over it, let it sit for an hour, and then rinse it three times and pat it dry, poach it off uh for a little bit, and then we stuck it in the tandoor. I put a coat hanger through it and put it down in the tandoor and spun it. First, I caught the string on fire and burnt my hand getting the thing out, but you know, whatever, you know, we can't have everything. So the but when we did it, that pigeon was straight up delicious.
+
+[36:25] So if you make yourself a flower pot tandoor uh with a you know a garbage can, sand, if you can get vermiculite, get it, and cook yourself some pigeon in your flower pot tandoor, because that was straight up good, right? Yeah. Also, I was really worried because uh, you know, I I spoke to uh a chef a long time ago about tandoors and he would always laughing that his favorite part of a new cook coming into the kitchen was putting him on tandoor station and watching the flesh peel off the back of his hands from putting his hand into the hot tandoor all the time because it's hot as the devil, and you have to put your hand in and literally slapped the bread onto the side of the unit. And so I was a little more than a little bit nervous that this was gonna totally fry me out. So but it wasn't so bad.
+
+[37:03] I mean I I burnt the hair off my arm, right? But it wasn't such a big deal. Like I didn't I didn't run around screaming too much, right? So go ahead and build yourself a flower pot tandor. What else do we make?
+
+[37:13] The bread was really good that we made that. We made like an old school flatbread with like really crappily ground uh wheat and also with barley, but the wheat was a lot better, right? Yes. Yeah, and did we do anything else that was fun? Rizzotto.
+
+[37:25] No, we didn't do lentils. She like Nastasha has risotto on our mind. She must want risotto for dinner because she's just thinking risotto, risotto, risotto, you made risotto. That dude Bourdain is a tall dude, too, by the way. Did you know how tall that sucker was?
+
+[37:38] Probably like six four. I don't know. He's a huge man, tall. Also drops a lot of F-bombs while he's shooting. Did they cut that out during the show or no?
+
+[37:46] I don't think so. Anyway, so look for that to air on December the 15th or something like that. Something like that. Uh all right. So what I'm doing today, so when I went to Colombia, uh, I don't know if I mentioned this.
+
+[37:59] When I went to Colombia, uh, I wasn't able to get any money. Uh so you mentioned this. I mentioned I did so Chris Costau, the you know, three-star Michelin chef, uh, you know, out in Napa, gave me a hundred and fifty bucks uh in Colombian cash money so that I wouldn't die, basically. Um, and we had a discussion, and he said that he is very interested in the flavors of tomato plant, right? So I you know, I said, well, I've done that before.
+
+[38:31] You know, I I took a I've roto vaped, uh, and also you know who used to be interested in that years ago is David Kinch out at Manresa, also in California. It must be something about Californians and tomato plants. Even though we straight up, I'm sorry, California, we straight up have the best tomatoes I've ever had in my life. Crap on anyone else's tomatoes over the best tomatoes I've ever had are from New Jersey. Uh Aunt Ruby's German Greens and the German stripes from uh Stokes Farms in in New Jersey.
+
+[39:00] And I can say that they don't give me a break on anything. They don't give me anything. But these are, and in fact, I can't get them anymore hardly because New Yorker or New York magazine or New York or one of those wrote them up like a two years ago, and now they've sell as the best tomato, and they sell out now, so I have a tough time getting them. Hurricane came through here and it didn't do any damage to New York City, but it did a lot of damage to parts of Jersey and up in Vermont, and all of their tomato plants' roots were underwater, and so a lot of the tomatoes kind of blew up and exploded. So the the season is over early this year.
+
+[39:30] Anyway, that's an aside, a sad aside. I had the last of the great uh Aunt Ruby's, I am told, uh, on Saturday. They're delicious. Anyway, um, and by the way, Aunt Ruby who came up with this, the heirloom state, you know her last name? Tuesday.
+
+[39:43] Arnold. Oh. Aunt Ruby Arnold, no relation. I wish it was. I wish she was my relative.
+
+[39:47] Anyway, she died in like 1997. So uh tomato plant vodka, I made it a bunch of years ago in a rotary evaporator, and so I'm gonna make it again today. I'm gonna make a whole bunch of it, but I'm gonna do it legally. For the first time, I'm gonna do a legal uh roto evap of tomato plant vodka, and I'm gonna ship it off to Chris Costau as a thank you for uh giving us giving me the ability to not be dead in Columbia. Yes?
+
+[40:13] Yeah. Anyway, uh I'm going back. Uh did I did you ever taste that tomato plant vodka? Mm-hmm. I had still had some left?
+
+[40:19] Mm-hmm. Yeah, it's weird. It's green, it tastes so green, so bizarre. I love I like it a lot. I mean, but you could never make a mixed drink with it.
+
+[40:26] Um, because if you made a mixed drink with it, people were like, what the hell is that flavor? And you say tomato plant vodka. Um, when am I going back to Columbia? Do you have any idea? Yeah.
+
+[40:35] Second, third, and fourth. Soon. Anyway, I love Columbia. I've talked enough about Columbia, but I love it there. I actually have two Colombian friends visiting me right after right after this program.
+
+[40:44] Um, what is it? Yeah. Um, so and the last thing I'm gonna talk about before I go is the Harvard. Uh, because we didn't talk about it or we did. No.
+
+[40:52] So uh I'm going back to Harvard sometime in November to do a uh public lecture on drinks. I hope to have some sort of like whiz-bang cran craziness. I'm also doing a lecture at the Beverage Alcohol Resource Program, David Wendrich's thing, which is when, next week? Uh yeah. Yeah.
+
+[41:07] So if uh I don't know if there's still slots available for that, but it's kind of the greatest bar program ever, ever made. It's Dave Wondrich, Dale de Groff, uh, Steve uh Olsen, Paul Packelt. Um I'm sure I'm missing, I'm sure I'm missing a bunch of other things, but it's kind of the craziest bar program in the world because you have some of the biggest spirit nuts on the planet going out and bringing like personal bottles of weird crap, and you spend, I believe, the morning tasting every damned uh every damned liquor you can, so you can identify it later, and then there's lectures on theory, there's lectures on so I'm gonna go give uh lecture probably on clarification, rotary evaporation, and my general thoughts about high-tech stuff next week. Uh and then a drinks lecture, a lecture in um November. Um but at the Harvard, it's kind of uh I we didn't do it last year, but it's kind of a strange course, right?
+
+[41:56] I mean, Nastasha, you went. What do you think? I mean it's kind of an it's an interesting idea. They get a whole bunch of chefs and they do a demo and then they try and turn it into a class about uh about science, right? But it's kind of like it's physics for poets, is basically what it is, right?
+
+[42:11] Taught through the lens of cooking. Right. Now, most of the chefs who go, uh, last week was Juan Roca. I don't know who's gonna be this week. You know, Juan Rock, if you don't know him, is kind of like super duper badass mofo badass, you know, guy with low temperature cooking and also with rotary evaporation.
+
+[42:28] So, you know, very big influence on me. Uh very big influence, I think, on all the chefs kind of of you know, Wiley's generation, my generation in terms of sous vide and low temperature and whatnot. Uh they're they're getting like a whole bunch of uh of people going up, but it's kind of weird to have to beat those chefs into kind of a science mold, right? It's kind of an interesting problem. Me, because I'm a schmuck, instead, I was like, I was just like, I'll just do some demos around the science because you know, whatever.
+
+[42:51] But do you think they went all right in my lecture? It was all right. It's all right, it's available on the web so you can see. I listened to it, I said um a lot. Apparently, I don't know, Nastash, you said I don't say um too much on the radio, but I said um every other word when I was at when I was at Harvard.
+
+[43:04] But let me tell you something. They have a vacuum pump at Harvard. One of the demos we did uh at Harvard was uh a demo Johnny had told me about that he saw it at Nathan Mirvold's joint with Chris Young. You take liquid nitrogen, you put liquid nitrogen into a vacuum machine, and a regular commercial vacuum machine will work, and you suck a vacuum on it, and as you suck a vacuum on it, the temperature starts dropping. Uh uh because you're evaporatively cooling.
+
+[43:26] Think about it. As you're boiling off liquid nitrogen, you're evaporatively cooling it. So when you put a vacuum on it, you boil it off so quickly that the temperature drops about two, three degrees, and that's enough to turn liquid nitrogen from a liquid to a solid. Now, Harvard's vacuum machine is so freaking awesome that we needed to literally let bleed air out of it because it was sucking of all too hard of a vacuum too fast, and it just exploded into the solid bunch of uh nitrogen foam. That was kind of the most fun thing I did, right?
+
+[43:55] That was I mean, in my feeling, that was pretty badass. And that brings me to my last question also from James in Australia on vacuum equipment. I've just managed James says to get a large chamber sealer a vacuum sealer cheap on eBay. Well congratulations to you I've had a look at Modernist cuisine and online but uh all the information out there is sort of stick it in the bag and vac it. What are my tips on maintenance, bag size to food ratio, how to tell when you have uh crazy over vacuum your food and any other ideas on what to use it for apart from packaging for sous vide and stuffing alcohol into fruit.
+
+[44:27] Well you can freeze liquid nitrogen into a solid but that's pretty useless because as soon as you let the air back in the thing melts and it and it goes back to being a liquid again. Here's uh the maintenance maintenance is fairly easy on a vacuum machine. You need to do two things regularly you need to replace the Teflon tape over the seal bar. You need to do that as soon as it starts burning through otherwise your bags are going to be sealed improperly. You just have to buy the tape you can buy it from a second hand uh from a third party like McMaster car I don't know what they call it in Australia but I'm sure you have an industrial supply place that sells it Teflon tape or you know not the stuff for plumbing it's an adhesive uh heat proof Teflon tape or just get it directly from the vacuum manufacturer uh from the thing but that's something to do regularly but the most important thing the heart and soul the literally the heart of the vacuum machine is the uh vacuum pump and the vacuum pump needs one thing to work properly and that's clean oil.
+
+[45:17] When you vacuum something uh as you vacuum it liquid is be evaporating off of your product and it's contaminating your oil with water and it's reducing the uh the the level of vacuum you can get to and also making it take longer and longer for you to get down to that vacuum. So the key is to keep the pump clean. And the way to keep the pump clean is to run it till it gets hot. Most commercial vacuum machines have a have a pump in it made by a company called Busch out of Germany. And they're designed to run hot.
+
+[45:41] So what you do is you leave the lid open and you run it for minutes until it gets really hot with air streaming through it, and it's gonna boil all the liquid out and keep your pump oil nice and clear. If you do that regularly, you shouldn't have to change your pump oil more than about depends on how heavy your usage is, but every six months to a year you should be able to keep it before you have to change it, okay? That's the prime thing in maintenance. Obviously, keep the unit clean. Your unit might have an acrylic lid, so don't wash the lid with alcohol or it could get hazy depending on the unit you have.
+
+[46:10] But that's basically it. Every morning uh or whenever, whenever you see that it's not working right, I would rip the there. Usually there's a metal plate for some unknown reason covering up the window on the pump, showing you what the condition of the oil is. And the first thing I do when I get a vacuum machine is rip that plate off so that I can see the condition of the oil at all times. And I guarantee you, if it's been used, it's gonna look like salad dressing.
+
+[46:31] So putting you know, put new oil in, obviously, because you don't know what happened before, and then clean your pump oil out. So that's the main uh thing. Also, bag size to food ratio is important, but people don't think about it. If you're sucking a complete vacuum on something, the bag size isn't very important. If you use a bag that's too small, what happens is is you're gonna get smashed the bag around the corners of your food and you're gonna get crazy portions that look like pillows, they look insane, and nobody thinks those are appetizing if you see little bag marks in your food, right?
+
+[46:57] Um, but assuming you have uh enough liquid like oil or whatever in the bag such that uh you know that the bag can seal around the liquid and not deform your product, right? Then having a bag that's you know much bigger if you're sucking a full vacuum doesn't make that much of a difference. But uh, two things. You don't want a big bag because a big bag takes up extra room in your circulator, right? You're spending extra money on the plastic, although that's not the primary thing.
+
+[47:21] But the main thing is that a lot of times we're gonna suck an incomplete vacuum on our product, and then the bag size does matter because if you have kind of a loose seal and a big bag, it gets really loose, right? So you want to try and have the bag be uh about you know uh just extend enough around your food to uh allow it to close around your your sauce without or oil or whatever without it crunching your food. That said it's not hyper hypercritical. But uh the reason you're gonna want to not suck a complete vacuum on stuff is that the vacuum the vacuum level that you use radically affects the texture of certain products. For instance, chicken.
+
+[47:59] If you uh you know, if you vacuum chicken really hard, it tastes like canned chicken after you cook it. If you vacuum fish really hard, it it ruins the texture, makes it kind of stringy. And you can look on cookingissues.com and look for uh you look under I think it's called boring but useful technical post on vacuum machine or something like that. You can look it up and you can see our tests that we ran on that. Uh and um, you know, the Chris and uh and Nathan have a theory on that in Modernist Cuisine about why that's the case.
+
+[48:26] They think it has something to do with boiling. I kind of I disagree with that. I'm I'd love to have that debate with them, but I kind of disagree with it. Um but that said, you know, if you if you over compress something for storage, it's usually not a big deal. It's when you cook something under a high vacuum.
+
+[48:40] That's my feeling is that you're gonna have a uh a problem with it. Um anyway, as for other ideas, you're gonna have to wait for our next installation, which I promise I will start working on. And I'll tell you what, Nastasha's been beating on me to do some of these sous vide primers, and I have more incentive. I'll give you a little hint because I know the French Culinary Institute does not listen to our webcasts. I believe the cooking issues blog is going to be switched to my personal ownership soon.
+
+[49:05] With you know, they'll they'll still have they'll still be the French Culinary's tech and stuff blog. But I believe what happened is uh I wrote uh a post a couple weeks back, right before I went to Columbia on how to mess with pressure cookers. Um, and uh their lawyer and their lawyers freaked out, right? Mustacha, true or false. Should I be talking about this?
+
+[49:23] Their lawyers freaked out. And so I think they think it might be easier for it to just be my personal blog that's called the French Culinaries Tech and Stuff blog. So, anyway, that's that, and that's cooking issues. Fishers fish. Oh, thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[49:53] You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening. The following message is from Bubbies.
+
+[50:25] Bubbies Main Street is thrilled to announce a fall program of special dinners celebrating efforts to renovate American agriculture and the American menu. Each event will feature a conversation with persons who are deeply involved in a significant aspect of this project, followed by a meal that illustrates materially and pleasurably the themes under discussion. From our perspective at Bubbies, we observe and participate in three parallel movements that are gaining momentum in the New York region and around the country. New farmers supplying green markets and alternative food networks with produce and animals raised without relying on an arsenal of chemicals or industrial methods. And new artisans reinventing food crafts, and a fresh appreciation of authentic American cooking from all regions and communities.
+
+[51:05] For more information about these events, visit Bubbies.com. That's B U B Y S.com. Or contact Danny Finkel directly at 646-338-0422. The following is a message from Heritage Foods USA. Fourteen family farms and over 50 restaurants have committed to participation in No Goat Left Behind, a new program developed by Heritage Foods USA, a meat distribution company dedicated to preserving endangered breeds.
+
+[51:36] Without an end market, the majority of male dairy goats are sold into the commodity market or killed at birth. Dairy farmers are always struggling with feed prices, milk prices, and weather. Goats usually have twins or triplets, and for every female who will become a milker, there is a male buckling who will become a financial drain. It makes no sense that these males are sold into the commodity market or put to death when the United States imports almost 50% of its annual goat supply. Home consumers interested in participating can order goats through HeritageFoods USA.com.
+
+[52:06] They will receive goats via FedEx, and home delivery is available for New York City customers. In addition to the goat, these packages will also include recipes and a DVD featuring interviews with the farmers, processors, and chefs demonstrating how to break down and cook goat. Again, for more information on No Goat Left Behind, visit www.heritagefoodsusa.com or call Aaron Fairbanks at 718-389-0985. The Heritage Meat Shop has just opened in the Essex Street Market. Open from 9 to 7 Monday through Saturday and 10 to 6 on Sundays.
+
+[52:49] The Heritage Meat Shop supports independent family farms and animal welfare approved and certified humane raising standards. Most importantly, they offer a wide variety of heritage breeds.
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+[0:02] Broadcasting live from Roberta's in Bushwick, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. Hello, and welcome to Cooking Issues. I'm Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you live every Tuesday from 12 to 1245 from the back of Roberta's Pizza. We in Bushwick Brooklyn.
+
+[0:35] Here today in the studio, of course, with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. As always. Hello, Nastasha. Hi. She's doing something or other on the computer, I don't know.
+
+[0:42] Probably having to do with the event we're doing for 300 people tonight. Is that true or false? No, for Thursday. For Thursday's uh Museum of Food and Drink event, which I believe is sold out, but if you know someone, you can get tickets. I.
+
+[0:52] If you beg and plead, you can get tickets. Although we are theoretically sold out. Uh is that true or false? Yeah, that's true. It's true.
+
+[0:59] So I shouldn't even talk about it. Uh see that we're we're at that point now, huh? Yeah. What's a lot? Over a thousand.
+
+[1:07] Oh, Jesus. Oh my god. Anyway, uh, you have to email Nastasha for that kind of uh for that kind of information. You know, go on the blog, whatnot. Anyway, call in all of your questions, cooking or uh uncooking related, I guess, or technical or not.
+
+[1:20] Two 718497. You just wrote this wrong. She's trying to fool me. I happen to know that the last uh the last four starts with two. Yeah.
+
+[1:28] So you kind of know the phone number. He pretends. I know I kind of know it. I know when it's wrong. I see when I look, it's like spelling.
+
+[1:35] And when I see it, I know that because isn't spelled that way, but just spelling it out isn't the same. You know what I mean? Call in all of your questions to 718 497, 2128. That's 718 497-2128. Anyway, today's uh show is brought to you by uh again, Chris Anderson from the Monitors Pantry.
+
+[1:53] Good news for all of you uh looking to get ingredients people out there. He was able to get his hands on some Pectanex SPL. The Miracle Enzyme, which we use for French fries, recipe on the blog, www.cooking issues.com. Uh enzymatic peeling of uh fruits to get really amazing peels with no albedo. That's the white crap, or to do auto supreming.
+
+[2:14] Uh we also use it for clarification. It'll self-clarify things like apple juice, but you need a center for us to do stuff like strawberry puree. Although I have a way around that. Uh I haven't posted about this yet, although I will because I found out that I'm still way behind on my contractually obliged uh posts per week. And uh they're trying to ship me off to do a demo for this school, and they won't pay my uh obligatory day rate because they say I'm behind.
+
+[2:35] So I'm gonna have to now go ahead and do all those things so that I can then uh stuff it in the appropriate people's faces. Anyway, true or false. Yes. True? I know they're listening.
+
+[2:44] Oh yeah, come on, please. Anyway, uh I'm gonna read uh the thing straight up, right? So you get today's show is sponsored by Modernist Pantry, supplying Monitus ingredients for the home cook. Whether you were looking for hydrocolloids, pH modifiers, or even meat glue, you'll find it at Modernist Pantry. And if you need something that they don't carry, just ask.
+
+[3:01] Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you. With worldwide shipping, Modernist Pantry is your one stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients. Fan of cooking issues that order during today's show, we'll get oh wait, of transglutaminase again they're running? All right. They're running the Pectanex.
+
+[3:15] Yeah, but what's the number on the I have there? I'll look it up on my thing. But apparently they're still running the transglutaminate special. So, fans of the show called What? No, it's a good one.
+
+[3:23] Well, Jack just handed me the thing. Well, see whether you get it. See whether you get it. Try to get some free some free crap. Try to get transglutaminates for free.
+
+[3:29] They said in the promo case of the CI 53. Yeah, but CI 53 is the meat glue. Uh you'll get pectin's for free. Listen with free domestic shipping. It's just like a drug dealer.
+
+[3:39] They give you the free first sample. No, this is just free domestic shipping on pectanex. Oh, free domestic shipping on pectin. For those people that call in during today's show, you will get, if you enter CI 55, I'm sure he'll uh have it maybe for a whole week. I don't know.
+
+[3:53] Uh if you enter it, you will get free domestic shipping on Pectanex SPL, the ultra enzyme. Anyway, oh I like that. I like the reverb on that. That was good, Jack. Nice.
+
+[4:02] Uh anyway. Uh oh, and it says maybe you could talk briefly about how you use Pectanex for the benefit of the audience, but it looks like I already did that. Yes. Anyway, uh, I'm very happy that someone is finally carrying this thing, and that uh, you know, who's a real person that ships stuff out, and it's not us just shipping the stuff out of the school because that was a pain in the butt. Yeah.
+
+[4:19] You hated that. Yes. A lot, a lot. Yes. Anyway.
+
+[4:23] Okay. Uh, first question comes in from longtime questionnaire Colin. Uh first a response to uh what we said, because last week he had suggested maybe you could use an ultrasonic uh homogenizer, which is a quite a violent tool as a toothbrush. Uh and he says, Well, listen, I know that you're not supposed to sh stick your teeth on it and rattle your brains into little bits. I don't have his actual comment here copied, but he still thinks maybe it would be fun.
+
+[4:48] Uh I say again, do not attempt. Do not attempt, Colin. But for his other question, um uh going back to the museum uh food and drink fundraiser that we had a uh back in what that was it, May? March. March.
+
+[5:01] Back in March. Um Wiley did a dish. I gave Wiley caveman food. Every chef had a theme that they had to do historical or fun, like you know, Wiley had caveman and Nils had uh what do you have? Food as uh no, he had uh diet, fad diets.
+
+[5:16] Anyway, so for caveman food, Wiley did an amazing looking dish that looked like it was just a split bone. It was done with high-tech stuff actually, but it looked like twigs and branches and bones, looked very caveman, it was awesome. And one of the things he did with that looked like little twigs was Anoki mushrooms that he had dried and turned to these twigs. I take that's actually the only thing I got to taste off that dish, and it was good. I'm sure Nastasha had a whole one.
+
+[5:36] I had no food that day. Even you had no food, Nastasha? Now, just to let you know how hard Nastasha was working, Nastasha would stab a co-worker in the ear and let every piece of food you were cooking burn uh rather than give up the attempt the possibility of taking any morsel of food, even your mise en plus that you need for the dish. So it just goes to show how dedicated she is to the museum that she did not try that dish. Anyway, um uh I I I like I said I had just the Anoki mushrooms and they were good.
+
+[6:04] So Colin writes in when he made the twigs for his caveman dish. Did he use fresh Anoki, then season or dehydrate them, or did he use Anoki he bought pre-dried? Come on, Collins. Wiley, of course he bought fresh Anoki, season them and dry them. Come on.
+
+[6:19] Come on. They were fresh, uh, which is what I recommend you do. And his other question is uh what other than marketing in gold dust makes Quantro's spherification kit different? Any idea what their formula was? Okay, for those of you that don't know, spherification is turning uh fluids into tiny balls made popular by Ferron Adrias.
+
+[6:36] It was an industrial thing to make flaked fake blueberries and X, Y, and Z for a long time. Typically uses sodium alginate, which is a gel that uh is you know has a lot of good properties from a from a structural point of view and a lot of bad properties from a taste point of view, because it's it's a taste thief. Although I do like the balls when they're properly made, but it's hard. Anyway, so Quantro thought they were gonna get into what some people call molecular mixology, a term I detest and uh abhor because it sounds gross and I think it's dumb. And uh they made a kit that will teach uh basically anyone, any regular bar person to uh make little balls out of Quantro and then add quantal balls to dishes, and I believe they mixed some gold dust in to make shimmery quantro, shiny tiny balls.
+
+[7:20] I think that's what it was, shiny tiny balls. I'm not sure what they added to the kit, whether it was a mag stir unit or something like that, but I believe that they were just using I hope they were using calcium gluconate and not calcium lactate, I mean uh calcium uh chloride as their uh salt, because it's basically uh alginate plus calcium equals uh equals you know, alginate plus calcium equals a gel. So you make a an al you make an alginate uh mixture with your quantro, you drip it, dip it into the calcium, and boom, she sets. Um pretty sure that's what they were doing. I don't think they were doing reverse verification because it's more difficult and they were trying to train people to do it who had no training with hydrocolloids.
+
+[7:53] So I believe that it is just marketing gold dust, alginate, and calcium, hopefully calcium lactate gluconate because it's the least flavorless of the thing. And I believe a scale. You get a scale so you can measure this stuff out. You ever see them do that with Nastasha? No.
+
+[8:06] I've never had a quantro tiny ball cocktail, but you know, I'm willing I'm willing to try one. Although I have my doubts about the tiny ball phenomenon in general. What about you? You like tiny balls? Oh, fresh balls came.
+
+[8:21] Fresh what? Fresh balls came. Fresh oh, Nastasha ordered for her boyfriend uh the product fresh balls, which cooks across the world apparently tell me is much, much better than putting like uh cornstarch or whatever else you're gonna put into your pants to keep yourself uh fresh during service. Nastasha looks horrified. Well, Nastasha brought it up.
+
+[8:42] I mean, I have to say I was not gonna mention this at all. Tiny balls is an alginate food product that is absolutely uh wholesome and family oriented. All right then. Yeah. And you know, I don't want anyone writing or calling in saying that I suddenly took the show to a bad place when I believe it was Nastasha who brought it up.
+
+[9:04] And then, you know, you're not allowed to bring up an inside thing to our viewers without me explaining what's going on. It's unfair to the listeners. Let's move on. Moving on. Uh Alvin writes in about centrifuges.
+
+[9:16] Okay. Uh, because I just did a post on centrifuges. Okay, now I want a centrifuge. Actually, I wanted one before, ever since I had corn butter at Mirvold's lab in Bellevue, Washington. That would be Nathan Mirvold of Monitors Pantry.
+
+[9:26] Uh, what slash should I buy? Where to look? Perhaps eBay. I think you mentioned once on the radio show about finding one super cheap because of a misspelled auction. It's one of my favorite things of all time.
+
+[9:35] I got a centrifuge for almost nothing because they spelled it like what'd they spell it? Like centr centrafuge or something. Something wrong. I forget. Centerfuge.
+
+[9:43] Something something crazy. Uh finding one super cheap because of a misspelled auction. The approximate cost, I got it for under a hundred bucks plus shipping. Sick. Awesome.
+
+[9:52] Thing works great, by the way. Don't be, you know, not to make you jealous or anything. Works great. Uh please answer on the radio show because I listen to the podcast religiously. By the way, will you guys be at the Star Chefs ICC, uh, which is the International Chefs Congress, not to be confused with the renaming of the French Culinaries building, the International Culinary Center, although that is confusing, right?
+
+[10:13] Confusing. Do you find it confusing? Anyway, anyway. Uh uh, well, uh, Alvin, we will not be there as participants this year. We don't have to work it.
+
+[10:23] We just get to show up. Boo! Yuck every year. I've never seen any of the demos because we're working the whole time, right, Nastasha? You're right.
+
+[10:31] Anyway, this time uh I'll be hanging out and uh getting liquored up at the uh whoever the wine and beer sponsors are. I'll be going to the seminars given by my bartender friends and watching chef's demo and learning stuff like a normal human instead of uh running around like a chicken with my head cut off. Right? Right. Should be fun.
+
+[10:44] Anyway, okay, now to his question. Okay, you want a four or sometimes three. You want a three to four liter uh bench top centrifuge. If you can find one, refrigeration is not necessary, but refrigeration is helpful. If you're only gonna run one or two batches, it doesn't matter.
+
+[11:07] But when you're running a thing all the time uh and you don't have time necessarily to really chill your products down, they can heat up somewhat uh somewhat drastically in uh in a centrifuge because of all the friction of the thing spinning around. You want to make sure uh what you do is you you look up whatever rotor you're using, and you uh you can look it up on the internet. There's all sorts of calculators to help you figure out how many times the force of gravity uh any particular rotor is generating at a particular number of revolutions per minute, and you can look it up. You want to get about four thousand G's to be able to get the best benefit out of it, including all the stuff you do with enzymes and things like that. You're gonna want to get yourself some Pectan X SPL, of course, uh so that you can just clarify everything like a mamma jamma.
+
+[11:49] Now, the reason I recommend four liters is because a four-liter, you're really spinning about three liters at a time, and I find that it really is a convenient size because if you have less product, you can spin two buckets instead of one. We've sometimes even spun one bucket of product, and then the other bucket just had uh like sugar in it as a weight to keep it weighted down. And it's just a really good size. We can put a lot of product through it. It's you know, pretty economical to time wise to run.
+
+[12:15] So I really, really like it. Uh you could maybe get a three-liter fuge. Um, I didn't enjoy using my one that only had uh 500 by six. It's like a liter and a half or something like that. What is it?
+
+[12:27] What is five hundred by six? That's three liters, but it didn't seem like it did three liters in those little bottles. Yeah. Maybe it was 250 by 5. Anyway, it was like a liter and a half fuge.
+
+[12:29] And I didn't really like it. I had to spin it so many times to get enough product to work. You know what I mean? And plus you need to have a little bit of air at the top anyway, so you end up losing. I would get a three to four-liter uh bench top centrifuge.
+
+[12:47] Um if you apparently, someone told me at the uh class I taught last weekend that uh the price has gone up substantially on eBay since we've been screaming loud and long that everyone needs to buy one. Um and so I don't know whether my particular model, the Zhuan, uh, you know, C whatever it is, C C 12, C14, is uh still a good deal, but you should be able to get one for about a thousand bucks in good working order, 1200 bucks in good working order. I never paid more than 200 for mine, but I'm willing to wait around and wait for something broken and fix it. Brand spanking new, they're eight grand. Uh and so that should give you a uh that should give you an idea.
+
+[13:22] Is that a good good answer, Stas? Yes. All right. Now, let's go to our first commercial break. And while we're doing that, pick up your phones and download your questions to 718 497 2128.
+
+[13:30] That's 718497-2128. We're having a party. Listen to the music. On the radio. The cokes are in the ice box.
+
+[13:59] Pop holes on the table. Me and my baby. We're out here on the floor. Some mister Mr. Easy.
+
+[14:14] Keep those place. Cause I'm a haven. Such a good time. Dancing with my baby. Just to give you an idea what kind of person Nustache is.
+
+[14:27] She wanted to cut the song off before you said dancing with my baby. No soul. No soul on that lady. Right? I guess?
+
+[14:35] Yeah, we're getting some nods from the from the room over there. Then don't come in and ask it for a ready, Jack. Well, he knows not to cut it off before he says dancing with my baby. Come on. Please.
+
+[14:48] Come on. Anyway. And you know what's funny? Nastashi used to work for MTV and like loves bands, loves going to C bands, kind of. Doesn't like to be in the audience, likes to be side stage.
+
+[14:58] And yet she, like, an actual song comes on, couldn't care less. Anyway. It's not true when it comes to Holland Outs. No, it's true. Hall of Notes.
+
+[15:07] If you would cut, if you would cut off Man Eater at a bad time, she would like all of us would be dead. Because that's her theme song. Oh wow. Boom. Alright.
+
+[15:15] So uh Johnny writes in with lots of questions. Uh I really enjoyed the discussion last week about which br uh blender brand to purchase and Daya's promotion of induction cooktops. Do you guys have an opinion about brands for induction burners? I own a couple of cooktechs. I've been happy with them, but I'm wondering if there are others that I should look into.
+
+[15:31] Unfortunately, uh Johnny, I don't have enough experience. Cook tech. I know a lot of people that use cooktex. Um they're out of Illinois. I believe, you know, they're a U.S.
+
+[15:40] brand, and so most people build them in. I haven't heard a lot of horror stories about CookTex versus other induction units in a commercial environment, which I'm assuming you're in a commercial environment because most people who use cooktex are in commercial uh environments. Um the main problem with inductions early on was everyone wanted the holy grail, which is induction units over a an oven, induction range over an oven. And no one, I don't care whether it was French companies or cook tech or whomever, uh, no one made induction units that simp that wouldn't burn out when they were put over an oven because um they just you know the the the electronics weren't cooled effectively enough and they would always just burn out, and that was what happened. That was the last time I checked into that was maybe four or five years ago.
+
+[16:22] So I'm hoping that they've solved that problem, although I don't know if they have or not. The other problem I've seen with with uh induction units, uh cooktop and cook tech and otherwise is just shattering of uh people like putting a heavy pot on on something in a in a commercial environment or dropping a uh you know, dropping a pan down on it and boom, they shatter. Uh and so those are the two things that uh uh I know had always been the Achilles heel, not of cooktex in particular, but of all of these units. So I'm hoping that some of those uh problems will change. I think when you looking into uh when you're looking into uh induction units, one of the interesting things is you can configure them kind of h however you want.
+
+[16:57] And so you can buy dual units that are either side by side or front back. Uh I thought the front back units were pretty cool because you could treat you could stack them like a regular range, which is awesome, and you could just make it any number of burners you want, but the guys at Somme who have one have a problem because they won't accept a big stock pot. So just figure out what you want, and uh I think CookTech is a fine brand to go with. I'm gonna get back to some of Johnny's questions in a minute because we have a caller. Caller, you are on the air.
+
+[17:22] Hi Dave. Uh this is Gary from New York. Um I have a question about uh tinctures. Um and basically, I was wondering if the rapid and fusion technique that you talk about on the blog, is there a way to uh do tinctures with that? So you know, you know, you don't have to wait six weeks for seven tincture or whatever.
+
+[17:42] Okay. Well, so so here's my feeling on that. So um the rate of infusion, what kind of proof of alcohol are you using? Very, very, very high? Well, since I'm in New York, they can't get uh grain alcohol, but I guess the highest thing I know I can get is like solely 100 or you know, something like that.
+
+[17:58] You can do 151 is the highest proof you can get here, and they sell a uh I saw one that was slightly higher that was illegal, but you can get 151 here. Um you can't get uh you can't get higher than 151. So, but you you can go to New Jersey or Connecticut and get it and get the uh ever clear regular ever clear. Uh it tastes bad, regular ever clear. You could try to source uh some like lab or perfume grade, and if you convince someone that you're a business, you can get uh lab grade 200 proof, which is sweet.
+
+[18:29] Uh don't get too hard, get the 195 USP lab grade. It's really pure, it's awesome stuff. Um and if you find it on sale, it's not that that expensive. Okay. But back to your question.
+
+[18:40] Um I think that the the flavors you get are not going to be exactly the same. If you want a if you want it to taste like an old school tincture, then you're probably gonna need to make an old school tincture. Will you accelerate the infusion by doing rapid infusion? Yes, a hundred percent. But the the exact ratios of uh f you know, different compound compounds that are extracted under the different uh kind of time and pressure regimes might not be exactly identical.
+
+[19:10] Maybe it's gonna be better, maybe it's better. Maybe it's worse, maybe it's just different. I think you have to test it. So if you've made a particular tincture before, right, you can make one using the rapid infusion technique and and and I think have a good result, but it might be different. Another thing is is that when I have rapid, right?
+
+[19:27] I'm typically doing rapid stuff in the one to five minute range. Now I there've been people who have tested uh trying to do more traditional tasting like several week tinctures by keeping the stuff under pressure on the order of eight hours or overnight or one day and then venting the vessel. And I think people have had some good luck doing that, and that might taste closer to a traditional tincture because you're basically the amount of time it would take the liquor to percolate through and get an intimate contact and kind of displace the air that's inside of uh some of the products that you're steeping would be uh, you know, basically you get through that part of it right away. And then it's just uh it's just the you know, the the the marrying once it's together and then p you know, shooting it out that you get. So that might be another way to uh to do it if you if you want to give that a shot.
+
+[20:18] Yeah, I will. Thank you, Dave. Hey, no problem. Thanks for calling in. I love questions on infusions and tinctures, right, Sas?
+
+[20:23] Yeah. Uh let me see if I can get my iPad to find Oh, I have another caller. Caller, you were on the air. Hi. Uh hi, Dave.
+
+[20:31] I have a question. If I so a lot of recipes call for chicken or vegetable broth. Um, and if I don't have any in my apartment and I can't really like run out and get any, what can I do or what can I use instead of that? Huh. But you want it to taste like that?
+
+[20:47] Well, I mean, I guess so. I I guess it's not so much like if I'm making like a barley or something and I know that it would might be too bland without the chicken or vegetable broth. Yeah. Uh I mean and you just can't keep it in stock because you forget. Right.
+
+[21:01] So it's like it's always that one thing that you have in your kitchen and you for and you forget to buy it until you don't have it. Yeah, okay. Now listen, don't don't tell anyone who's not listening to this, but there that like uh there's whole groups of people who you otherwise respect in Europe who keep uh who use on a regular basis like Brodo, broth, bullion cubes. Yeah. And there are higher quality ones than uh than the ones that we normally get in the US, even made by the companies that make the same ones in the US because it's more of a respected product in certain places we show they shall remain nameless, Italy.
+
+[21:36] Uh and and so in other countries, like these uh broth cubes, uh Broto they call them, right? Cubes, what do they call them? Yeah. They you know they are a they are considered a valid ingredient. So what I would do is is if you're if your buddies are gonna bother you about it, hide it in the back of your pantry.
+
+[21:53] If not, say like, you know, who's shove that stick up your butt? This is a valid ingredient, stop being so provincial and look at the world. Uh and then uh and then what you do is you just have that there. Use your normal stock when you have it, and then have one of those sitting around just in case all hell breaks loose and you don't have it, right? Okay.
+
+[22:09] That's that sounds great. But you're gonna have to remember you're gonna have to change the amount of salt that you have in your recipe. So you're gonna want to make sure that there's no pre-salting going on. Okay, with the with the bullion cube. Yeah, and the other thing I would recommend, and this is another good one, is stock freezes almost indefinitely.
+
+[22:23] So what I tend to do when I'm doing a bunch of uh do you have a pressure cooker? I don't. Okay, well buy a pressure cooker. Anyway. Okay.
+
+[22:33] Like whenever you're getting chickens, I tend to buy whole chickens and then I break them down. Uh and then I just uh I throw the uh I throw all of the bones and and you know, you know, backs and necks and stuff into uh into zips and throw them in the freezer. And then after I've accumulated, you know, like four or f four chickens worth, I just I th throw the bones in the in the pressure cooker and just make a quick white stock. Don't even bother I mean like it's better if you roast everything, but don't even bother, just throw it in with some veg clamp it and like 20 minutes later you know you have uh a passable stock you can freeze into cubes and then you just have so you do you have three layers now you have some stuff frozen in in and you freeze them in ice cube trays and then put them in zips and and then you just throw individual cubes of frozen in and they melt relatively quickly. You don't want to freeze big core containers of it because then you have to thaw a whole core container out.
+
+[23:20] Yeah. Yeah. And so now you have three layers that are going to protect you. Yeah wow that's that was really great. Thanks so much.
+
+[23:27] I never thought about the ice cube idea that's that's really cool though. Well I forget who I stole that from back in the probably from Jacques Popin or Julia Child, someone back in you know way back in the day. That's okay I won't tell anybody I'll say it's Dave Arnold's idea. Alright cool thanks very much thanks for calling in all right so now back to Johnny's list of questions. He writes in are there any det is there any detailed information on changing the oil in a vacuum sealer.
+
+[23:49] Commercial vacuum machines another indication that Johnny's in a commercial kitchen commercial vacuum machines use uh vacuum oil and uh that that's how they seal how they get a good seal on them. And uh it's one of the reasons why they're much better than a food save or any sort of home machine because they have a much higher grade pump. That said occasionally you have to change the oil. You don't have to actually change the oil very often the oil gets contaminated with water every time you vacuum something with water in it. And you uh clean it typically just by heating the pump up by running it letting air go through it it boils the water out and makes the oil clear again.
+
+[24:19] But when the time comes to change it, you change it much like you change a car. What you just uh you run the vacuum pump to get the uh the what's it called the pump hot so that the oil is uh a little runnier right and then typically it depends on the machine, but you might have to undo a couple of bolts and move the pump out. It's just attached by hoses and and pipes and stuff. You move it out a little bit. There's typically a uh a uh filling port at the top and one on the side, and you drain it just like a car.
+
+[24:43] If it would have any grit in it, you should look at the oil and make sure it had no grit in it. If it had grit, seal it, pour some fresh oil in, run it vacuum oil. You can get it any industrial supply place like McMaster.com or Granger or uh MSC direct and uh run it with some fresh oil, drain that again, fill it with fresh oil. It doesn't take much. Usually these things take under a quart.
+
+[25:04] Uh under a quart. Anyway, and uh that's it. It's fairly fairly simple. Um lastly, uh Johnny wants to know uh he was listening to the Nathan Mirvold episode that we had uh and and particularly the discussion on Confi, uh where we said where Nathan basically said that you could steam a duck, and it's the same thing as doing a confie. And uh and he's wondering how steaming can produce the same results as cooking in fat.
+
+[25:28] He guessed that he just assumed that the fat had some beneficial effect on flavoring. Now that's one of the more controversial things that uh Mirvold, Young, uh, you know, and everyone uh you know, Max were saying is that um confie, the fat actually doesn't make uh any difference, and that what it was is fat is a very gentle way to cook something in a liquid that's not a poaching liquid, right? So when you when you poach something in water, you're ch you're basically you're you know, fluids are exchanging, you're be getting more of a poached duck uh or a braised duck than you are a confid duck. But since the fat is considered a dry cooking medium and it doesn't really add moisture or remove moisture from the or water soluble stuff from the duck, it it's a way of doing a gentle low temperature cooking back in the day before there was any sort of low temperature, right? And if you roasted it in an oven without the fat, you get much more uh evaporation loss off of the duck, so you'd end up with a much much drier duck.
+
+[26:23] So it's a way to protect and cook the duck. Uh, but the but Mirval's thing is that basically it doesn't actually add uh any appreciable flavor to the duck at all. I don't know. I've never run the side by side test. The only way to do this is to do one in a combi oven set on steam at 85 Celsius or something like that, uh, and uh do another one uh traditionally comfy or even in a bag sous vide comfy.
+
+[26:48] Although you shouldn't do it in a bag because nothing can evaporate off in the bag. So you should do it basically traditional in fat in the six here's what you should do. You should get one combi oven, run one in a pan uh just steamed, and the other one in the fat in the same cavity at the same time, and for the same exact length of time, same temperature regime, and see which one comes out better or if there's any difference. I'm assuming, knowing those guys that they did that and they saw that there wasn't any difference. So I'm gonna have to say that the way that they were doing it, it didn't make much of a difference.
+
+[27:17] What do you think it does? Yes, all right. And apparently that wasn't the last question because he says sorry for all the questions, but he has one last question. He does a lot of low temperature cooking, but his partner doesn't like it because she's worried about the harmful effects of cooking things in plastic. I showed her manufacturer's recommendations in that I cook things under the temperature that they recommend, but she points out that plastics have continued to have increased negative effects that get revealed after new introductions and after new, you know, whatever research that comes out, and not enough uh is known to show it is safe.
+
+[27:43] Is she worrying too much or is it a valid concern? It's very interesting. Uh, because I mean the main problem is you either trust that it's safe or you don't trust that it's safe. You can't prove that something is safe other than saying, you know, we've used X, Y, and Z for a long time, there doesn't appear to be any negative effects. Now the fact of the matter is that a lot of these plastics haven't been around super duper long in food processing things, and there's all sorts of problems that we're having these days.
+
+[28:12] And some people point to things like plastics, but they also point to things like high fructose corners, they point to a lot of things. So it's very difficult to know, and it's almost impossible to prove that something doesn't have an effect unless it's by centuries of use. You know, it's very, very, very difficult. I will say this. Um I am fairly certain that there are materials that leach from plastics into food when you're cooking.
+
+[28:37] The question is, are those and depends on the plastic, of course. The question is, are those things harmful? They the reverse happens too. Uh things in your food leach into the plastics, which is why plastics sometimes take on smells and can't be cleaned properly. It's mainly with fat-soluble things because the fat uh you know fatty things tend to uh you know have a a crosstalk with your plastics more often, which is why if you use a crappy plastic wrap that has a smell and you wrap a fatty cheese in it, the outside of the cheese tastes terrible.
+
+[29:05] You've had that happen, right, Stas. It's disgusting, right? It's because the cheese is absorbing plasticky flavors uh and and and and vice versa. So you want to you want to be careful. Now I would stay away from uh certain things that have i if you for instance if you're worried about BPA, bisphenol A, right?
+
+[29:23] Polycarbonate uh has uh you know, has it, right? We don't wrap the food in polycarbonate, but uh, we use polycarbonate in drinking vessels all the time. So if you're worried about bisphenol A, you stay away from that. I would stay away from cooking with PVC because it has lots of stuff in it, including uh, you know, plasticizers and phthalates and all sorts of things. So and and and but luckily most plastic wraps aren't made of that.
+
+[29:45] Most plastic wraps nowadays are made of polyethylene. Uh and polyethylene usually doesn't have plasticizers, which are the things that are, you know, people most normally blame for a lot of the problems in uh plastics these days. But they, you know, they do have things in them, uh, you know, other things like ethyl vinyl acetate and polybutine that are added to make things cling better. They have solvents in them that are used to uh, you know, they're in the process of making them that are then flashed off. And are there the residual things like that in?
+
+[30:13] Sure, there are. I mean, I have but have there ever been shown to be any problem with them? Not not that I know of, but it's very difficult. I feel confident using um polyethylene at low temperatures. Um but it's very it's very hard to it's very hard to say.
+
+[30:29] Um the you know, the a lot of the bags have uh you know the the bags that we use, uh cooking bags have nylon, which is also relatively uh you know considered inert and uh you know and you know not harmful in any way. So what do you think, Nastasha? What's the what's the upshot of that? There is no upshot, right? No.
+
+[30:46] Have I have I helped at all? Or I just think you I think it helps. I don't know. Here's some things. You can also cook in glass jars in a pressure cooker.
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+[30:53] You can cook in fat directly without cooking in um without cooking in in bags at all. Another thing is people have experimented making kind of uh foil pouches to uh cook things in um low temperature. Uh, you know, and I think there's gonna be more and you know, more and more people are gonna be interested, but you could just do low temperature directly in stock, directly in fat, uh in uh glass, packed in glass, uh in uh like I say, foil, though I haven't done that many experiments with it. So you there's all alternatives you can use if you're worried of for certain dishes if you're worried about the plastic. Yes?
+
+[31:28] Yes. Okay. Um Chris, uh, should we take one more break? Yeah. Okay, one more commercial break.
+
+[31:34] Call on all your questions too. 7184972128. That's 718497218. Too much love, I'll the man of sleep. You brought my will.
+
+[31:44] Good and listen to Gray. It's a sweet ball to fire. You came alone. Move me, honey. I'll change my mind.
+
+[31:57] Good and listen. It's a sweet ball to fire. Give him a baby. Oh, bye Ada. I will do love you like a lover should.
+
+[32:13] Oh, you're fine. So kind. And let's remember that if it's Jerry Lewis, he's talking about a 15-year-old. That's not, but I'm thinking, but all I can think of is Jerry Lewis singing that to like a 15-year-old. Oh man.
+
+[32:32] I had to take it to a bad place, right? Yeah. But I listen, I like his music, but don't you think about that? When you see like when you have a musician that, you know, has like a crazy, and look, I respect him greatly as a musician, but when you think of someone who has a crazy foible like that, don't you have to think about it every time you hear the music? Wasn't it his cousin too?
+
+[32:51] Look, now you're just making fun of the South. I don't appreciate that. I'm pretty sure that. I don't know. I don't know.
+
+[32:58] Anyway. Uh Chris Beer, we're gonna get in trouble on this one. Like, you know, but with the fresh balls and this one, it's bad. It's been a bad day. Anyway, uh, Chris Beer writes in about ISI infusions.
+
+[33:08] Hi, David Nastash, I have a cocktail question for you. I've been doing a lot of ISI infusions and fat washing, and I have a question about rancidity. Even though I freeze and strain my fat-washed alcohol, is there some residual fat that can go rancid over a period of time? I err on the side of caution and keep it in the freezer, taking out as needed, and let it come to room temperature for proper dilution. Also, I've infused nuts into alcohol and an ISI.
+
+[33:28] Is there any nut oil that would seep out and go rancid at room temperature? I don't usually keep ISI infused alcohol in the freezer. My cocktail obsession didn't start until I took your hydrocholide class uh last November. Thanks for the enlightenment, Chris Beer. Well, thank you for the compliment.
+
+[33:40] That's very nice. Um okay, look, uh when you're fat washing, a certain small amount of the fat is soluble in the alcohol, and that's frankly where some of that taste is coming from. Now, uh as to whether or not it goes rancid, if you're worried about rancidity, one thing you can add is a little bit of vitamin E, which is kind of a uh fat, you know, fat soluble uh antioxidant that you can add to try and prevent rancidity. Uh I don't know, can you just buy that in the store? Vitamin E.
+
+[34:06] Can you just buy vitamin E in the store? Yeah? All right. You can just go buy it. Tocofurol.
+
+[34:10] Um, but I called up, I couldn't get in touch with Don Lee, but I was trying to get him and John Darragon, who were two of the guys at PDT who used to blast out uh their famous uh Benton's uh bacon bourbon uh fat washed uh drink for their bacon bourbon fat washed thing that was hugely popular at PDT, I don't know, what, four or five years ago, something like that, four years ago? Whenever it was, three, four years ago. And so I said to John, here's the here's the quote. John, did you ever have uh rancidity problems with fat washing? And then he writes back, he wrote, We didn't have the product around that long.
+
+[34:43] I was like, all right, all right. Have you ever heard about the problem? Because I have a radio question about it. He says, No, but then again, putting bacon sticks in a bottle of vodka, people putting bacon sticks in a bottle of vodka are probably experiencing it uh and won't know it because I don't know, because they're drinking too much bacon in vodka or something. He said something unprintable, so I can't print it.
+
+[34:59] But he basically says is that he he he there maybe there's some rancidity happening, but he hasn't noticed it, and people who are like doing a lot of bacon in vodka probably don't notice uh either. Uh he also says uh he thinks it uh depends on the shelf life of the fat. Someone doing a lobster fat wash will have much less stable shelf product than a duck fat or bacon fat. Would be interesting to see if there's a relation to proof of spirit versus stability of product. I agree, John, it would be an interesting thing to look up.
+
+[35:24] Uh I mean to test. I don't know. I mean, the one thing we do with fat a lot in the ISI is uh cocoa nibs. And of course, you know, cocoa butter is gonna get uh dissolved in there, but cocoa butter is famously stable against oxidation. You know, that's why chocolate lasts so long.
+
+[35:39] I mean, that that you know, it loses its temper, but it doesn't go rancid. Do you know what I mean? But you know, uh Evan has done a lot of butter uh fat washing. I wonder whether it goes rancid. I mean, certain things do go bad when they're infused.
+
+[35:50] Uh you know, we remember did you ever have this uh the hops one? It got all skunked. Nasty. She was 13 and his first cousin. You gotta speak more into the microphones.
+
+[36:00] She was 13 and his first cousin, but his management all insisted she was 15. Oh, well, see, just like me to believe the management story. Just like you. You know, just too trusting. Company man, yeah.
+
+[36:13] Uh Matthew writes in on sauerkraut and slow roasting. Uh hey, Nasta, I hope all is well with you and Dave. I had a question. I was hoping you could answer them when you had time. I heard Dave mentioned that lactic acid contributes to sauerkraut type flavors.
+
+[36:24] In fact, it's the acid that you get from the lactic acid bacteria making sauerkraut. And you can distinguish uh uh, you know, uh a pickle, you know, an actual lactic acid back pickle from a vinegar pickle based on the lactic acid. Uh I'm working on a bratwurst sandwich for my business, sounds good, that I plan to top with pickled purple cabbage. Would it be possible to incorporate a small quantity of lactic acid into my pickle cabbage to suggest a sauerkraut type flavor without actually going through the fermentation product process? Does this make sense and is it a good idea?
+
+[36:51] Well, I don't know. It's interesting. I've never had uh really a mix of lactic and vinegar, like a semi-vinegar lactic. I mean, maybe I have, but I haven't I haven't made it myself, so I don't know. Look, it doesn't harm you at all to call up Terra Spice or Modernus Pantry.
+
+[37:05] Does Modernus Pantry carry that? I have no idea. Anyway, call them up. Get yourself a bag of lactic acid. It's not that expensive.
+
+[37:11] It's powder form. I used to get liquid form, but it's a pain to deal with. Don't get that. Just get the powder form because it stays around forever. And sprinkle it in, and you know, it really does add, it depends on how you think about it.
+
+[37:21] Sometimes people think of it like cured sausage, sometimes people think of it like sauerkraut, depends on what it's added to. I'm assuming if you add it to cabbage, it's going to taste like sauerkraut. Uh, you know, I happen to really love sauerkraut, and so uh my feeling, not having done side-by-side taste tests, is you're not going to get the same sort of complex, delicious flavors uh from a quick pickle that you are from an actual fermentation that produces lactic acid bacteria. On the other hand, quick pickles can just be fresh and delicious tasting, and there's no reason why they can't have a lactic acid flavor as well as a vinegar flavor, right? Mm-hmm.
+
+[37:57] So, you know, uh, you know, I don't believe in things necessarily uh using them just as shortcuts, but I definitely believe in doing something that's going to make it more delicious, and so if it's a delicious product that you stand behind, then I think it's a good idea. You know? Mm-hmm. Yeah. Uh along the same veins, does shocking slow roasted or braised meats in an ice bath affect the reabsorption of juices into the meat?
+
+[38:19] I often slowly braise slabs of bacon or other meats wrapped in plastic and foil in the oven at temperatures between 200 and 250 Fahrenheit. I was under the impression that during the cooling process, they reabsorb some juices that may have secreted during the cooking. It would speed things up for me to be able to plunge them into an ice bath after brazing in order to chill them quickly. What mur worries me is if this would affect the overall outcome of the product in terms of juiciness. It absolutely will.
+
+[38:41] Absolutely will. This is one of the things that we do in the uh sous vide class every time we run it is we show the effect of cooling on uh pieces of meat if they're too rapidly cooled. And this goes back to something I learned maybe set six, seven, seven years ago from Bruno Gousseau, kind of one of the grandfathers of uh you know low temperature cooking, is that uh you want to cool meats relatively slowly in order to have them reabsorb uh juices properly, and then once they get uh much below about 50 degrees Celsius, they stopped reabsorbing juices. And so you want to ramp the temperature from cooking down relatively slowly. Now, I'll tell you what he recommends.
+
+[39:20] Bruno Gousseau recommends, and we've done side by side well, I'll tell you what he recommends. He recommends you take a product out of your uh your cooking bath and you just leave it in the on the counter, in air on the counter for let's say it's a thick product, like you're talking, like a bacon slab, 20 minutes. Then throw it into tap water for 20 minutes because the air is not a very good conductor, it's gonna heat it, cool it relatively slowly. Tap room temperature tap water, much better conductor is going to start dropping it down a little more rapidly. After that 20, throw it in ice, and it will get all the way down in a relatively quick and safe amount of time without having to worry about uh, you know, whether it's going to be chilled properly or not.
+
+[39:56] That's what Bruno Gusseau recommends, and we've tested uh various regimes from throwing it directly in ice, like you recommend uh or not you recommend that you ask about, and then versus just going uh on the counter for 20 minutes and then in ice first versus the full gousot uh on the counter, then in water, then in ice. And uh there's not that much of a difference between the full gousot and just leaving it on the counter for 20 minutes and then throwing it in ice. So if you have to omit that step, you can, but there is a marginal difference, and his method is marginally better. Fair? Mm-hmm.
+
+[40:28] Fair. The full gousot. Okay. Uh I also have a small sandwich business, he writes. I would like to make a cheese sauce to serve over a braised beef sandwich.
+
+[40:36] I'm looking for a more temperature stable solution than any traditional Mornay sauce. For those of you out there who don't not hip to it, Mornay is basically a bechamel. So you take a roux, like a flour and uh butter, you cook it, you uh add milk. Typically they would scald the milk beforehand, but I don't think it's really necessary because milk that we use has been pasteurized, right? Uh and then that thickens up when it comes to the boil.
+
+[40:57] Uh usually you cook it off now for like 20 minutes to get rid of any residual starchy and flour flavors, and then uh towards the end you stir in cheese to make a delicious cheese sauce. Like, you know, classic would be Gruyere or something like that, right? Staz likes Gruyere because she likes all kind of like fondue Swissy kind of crap. She's like she loves the like Italians and Swiss, right? Food.
+
+[41:21] Yeah. And people. I thought you're the one always uh coming to the coming to the defense of the Swiss people. I make fun of them because they're neutral and you're like, no, they're great. No, no, I like their food culture mostly.
+
+[41:33] But not the people. So you don't like Swiss people. You're going on record saying you don't like Swiss people. I like some Swiss people. All right, all right.
+
+[41:40] Just curious. I'm just asking. Okay. Um, where was I? Mornay sauce.
+
+[41:45] Okay. Ideally, I would like to be able to make this sauce ahead of time and just heat it up for service without having to worry too much about it breaking. I'm not sure if it matters, but I would like to incorporate cheddar. I'm not at all adverse to adding strange chemicals into the mix. I just wasn't I want the main flavor to come from actual cheese, i.e., not from processed cheese.
+
+[42:07] Any thoughts or ideas, this would be a great assistance. Thanks, Matthew. Okay, look. We've all had cheese sauce go grainy, right? Have you had a cheese sauce go grainy or have you just never made a cheese sauce before?
+
+[42:18] No way. Yeah, we've all had a cheese sauce go grainy. She's not paying attention. She's literally staring off in Roberta's waiting for her pizza that is soon to come. So there's a number of things, like the couple of problems with cheese.
+
+[42:30] Some cheeses just don't melt very well, right? And they go grainy. The other problem with cheeses is you heat them up and they break. So you know the basically the fat is bound in kind of a protein and water matrix and then it breaks and it turns into a fatty goopy thing, and then like a curdled, nasty protein bull crap, and your sauce is ruined, and or it's grainy. And you want to try to prevent all of those things.
+
+[42:50] So one of the things you can do to prevent that from breaking is to ha uh starch. But of course, there's already starch in your sauce. You can add, you know, maybe a little bit more starch that's not necessarily one that you need to cook off as much, like a rice starch or something like that. Um, but I'm gonna talk about non-starch-related stuff to get it to go. Obviously, if you're making uh if you're if you're having problem with it getting ropey, right, you can add a little acid, which is what McGee recommends, and it's why fondues always have white wine in them to increase the acidity a little bit so that they tend not to get ropey and they tend to stay smooth.
+
+[43:19] But if you're having melting problems, right, and you want to know why how it is that Velveeta is so freaking delicious, but you want to not from a texture standpoint. I'm not saying you like the taste of Velveda Nastasha because she's making a stink face. I'm saying the stuff melts like a genius. Is there any better melting cheese? Is there anything more like melty, awesome than queso dip made with Velveeta, government cheese, and rotel tomatoes?
+
+[43:45] Delicious. Anyway, um my point is is if you want that melty thing, you have to add something called melting salts. So what they do is there's a whole category of things called called melting salts or emulsifying salts, and they're they use different ones. Sodium citrate is one that you might already have if you have hydrocolloids sitting around or different sodium phosphates like uh monosodium phosphate, um things like that. You add you you take your cheese before you make a sauce, take the cheese, grind it up fine, mix the salt in in the in the area of like a percent or something of this stuff, right?
+
+[44:21] Of the of either try sodium citrate, although I haven't used it like monosodium phosphate. You can get these things uh on the you know, maybe you can get them from Monarch's pantry. Fall Chris, we'll get it. But anyway, sodium citrate you probably already have if you do algine or things like that. Grind up the uh grind or grate the cheese, uh toss it all together with this.
+
+[44:39] If you need to add some other liquids if it's too dry, add liquids to it. If you need to add extra fat, add fat to it if it's very low fat cheese to try and get it, you know, in a relative into the relative proportions of a good melting cheese, like a grier or something like that, or like Velveeta. Now heat that, right, until it forms a smooth block, until it forms a smooth curd. Set that. And then you can use that cheese as the melting cheese in your Mornay sauce, and it'll be a lot more stable.
+
+[45:06] What do you think, Snaz? I think it's a good idea. Alright, so uh in doing this, I went and read a bunch of stuff on the internet. And um, oh, also if you add some of these things, they can make the pH of your of your thing, they can make it more basic because these things tend to make it like the they're alkaline, they make it more basic. And so it's gonna affect the texture of your cheese.
+
+[45:26] You need to add a little bit of an acidifier to the cheese as you melt it to bring the uh pH back down uh into the slightly pH range, or you're gonna have a problem. You can use citric acid, you can use whatever, you can use whatever you want. Um, you know, lemon juice, anything, anything you want. Um, okay. So, what I would do is go read uh if you want if you want to go stuff, go to the University of how do you pronounce it in Canada?
+
+[45:49] Gelf? University Gelf. They have the best, like one of the best dairy sites, and they have an entire section on how to make processed cheeses. Uh and so you should go to their to their website, the University of Gelph, look it up. If you want some cool pictures of what uh these things look like under the microscope, the little known food under the microscope uh blog, which you have to search for in Google under Foods Under the Microscope, have a really cool section on it, and also a really cool section on how to look at the curd boundaries inside of cheese that you buy at the supermarket um using uh like a cheese slicer.
+
+[46:27] You need here's what you need. You need a cheese slicer, basically, and you need uh sandpaper, and you need a two to five percent uh solution of glutiraldehyde. Now that sounds like you're not gonna have it, except for you can buy glutaraldehyde as a wort remover in roughly the same percentage that you need uh and denatured alcohol and acetone. So you can get all of these things basically at the local CVS or or right aid uh and and and do it. But I don't have time to go through their uh procedure, but just go under foods under the microscope.com and look up their awesome procedure for looking at curd boundaries in cheese.
+
+[47:02] Lastly, we just got a call in from I don't know from whom. Oh, from Don Lee, wrote texted us in. Uh by the way, Don Lee is tending bar uh from cocktail, he's you know, representing Cocktail Kingdom with Greg Bohm, which is a fantastic company that sells all sorts of awesome bar gear, including like the world's greatest ice pick, uh, for um it's an awesome ice pick. Like, I have no idea whether it makes ice crack any better than anything else, but you want to hold it all day long and tap people on the head with it who bother you. Uh, also, by the way, about them, not to push them or anything, but uh in general, I have a negative feeling about many reprints of old books because they're done so poorly.
+
+[47:38] And uh, you know, Greg, who does Cocktail Kingdom is also a publisher and an avid book collector uh of cocktail books, and I saw one of his reprints of uh, I think what was it, the Flowing Bowl or something like that, and it was such a good quality reprint that I thought he had reset the manuscript. That's how good they are, anyway, whatever. And they're being gracious enough to be one of the bartending crews at the museum event on Thursday. Don says, uh, regarding rancid fat, I have tasted a rancid fat wash, and it was seriously no bueno, but it was also a fat wash gone terribly wrong. They didn't freeze the fat and properly remove it.
+
+[48:13] The fat was left in slightly above room temperature for 48 hours and definitely had gone rancid. The longest safe fat wash I've done was 12 hours with ghee at room temperature before freezing. And that's just from Don Lee, and this has been Cooking Issues. Oh, you did. Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[48:52] You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening. The Heritage Meat Shop has just opened in the Essex Street Market.
+
+[49:23] Open from 9 to 7 Monday through Saturday and 10 to 6 on Sundays. The Heritage Meat Shop supports independent family farms and animal welfare approved and certified humane raising standards. Most importantly, they offer a wide variety of heritage breeds. So stop by, get a sandwich, try the charcuterie, the Heritage Meat Shop at the Essex Street Market. This is a message from Fork and Anchor.
+
+[49:46] Aaron Fitzpatrick, the host of our wine program, Unfiltered, is looking for help on Kickstarter to open Fork and Anchor, a general store inspired by two food-loving ladies with an equal affection for urban life, the sea, and the agricultural paradise of Long Island's North Fork. The store is situated in a growing community of farmers and winemakers and will become a meeting place offering prepared foods, a variety of sun-dries, and a selection of homespun products, many of which will have their origins in New York State. Your backing will help them fulfill their dream of fostering relationships with the community and making the local food system accessible on a broader scale. Search Kickstarter.com for Fork and Anchor and donate today.
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+[0:03] Broadcasting live from Roberta's in Bushwick, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. I'm Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you every Tuesday from 12 to 1245, live from Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn. Calling all of your questions, cooking or non-cooking, tech or non-tech related, to 718-497-2128.
+
+[0:38] That's 718-497-2128. Currently joining the studio as normal with uh Nastasha, the Hammer Lopez, the Hammer of Cooking Issues. Hi, Nastasha. Hi. In a couple of minutes, we're going to be joined by Superstar Chris Young, who's coming live from the main stage last uh yesterday at Star Chefs.
+
+[0:55] This being the Star Chefs edition of Cooking Issues. Uh so he did his main stage demonstration at the uh International Chef's Congress yesterday, and he'll be here in a couple minutes. He's on the BQE right now, caught in Brooklyn traffic. He's not from Brooklyn, so I think he doesn't realize how awful it can be getting around Brooklyn sometimes when you need to get somewhere, right, Nastasha? Right.
+
+[1:14] Right. Anyway, uh so uh make sure uh you know Chris Young, uh one of the authors of the mega cookbook, Modernist Cuisine, uh, will be here and he will answer any of your modernist cuisine or uh glider. Did you know that he's a glider pilot? No. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[1:29] He's like an avid glider pilot, like you know, catching thermals and all that, not like you know, little paper airplane gliders like the ones that he flies in. So he's an avid glider pilot, so if you have any questions about gliding or about uh anything else really, I guess, uh call in your questions to 718-497-2128, but think about him for a couple minutes, because it's gonna take him a couple minutes, probably to get here. But make sure you call in uh because that's gonna be fun. Okay, so uh what happened since last week? We had our uh fundraiser, right?
+
+[1:57] Yeah. Yeah, so the Museum of Food and Drink had a fundraiser at Mapesh Restaurant, which was uh I think an unqualified uh success in terms of I think the people really had a good time. Yes, they did. Yeah, they had a really good time. Mario Batali.
+
+[2:11] Mario Batale comes to the uh event and is was bidding like a lunatic in the auction. I mean, first of all, I don't know whether if I don't know whether you know this out there, but one of my skills is to go completely off my rocker bonkers lunatic during an auction situation. Would you would you agree that's one of my skills? Or at least crazy. Like if you want if if if what you want for your auctioneer is crazy, then I think in fact, at our next event, Snosh, see what you think about this.
+
+[2:42] At our next event, I think I'm gonna have as one of the auction items, I'll do an auction for you. Ooh, that's a good idea. Yeah. You like that? Like, I'll do like a charity auction for whatever your charity is.
+
+[2:52] Yeah, and yeah, yeah, right? Because I'm sure you know most people get like higher ticket items. They're like auctioning off like a country or something like that. Yeah, I I could definitely get that that money up there in terms of how much that country is gonna sell for as long as they give me the data on the country beforehand. I need the data.
+
+[3:10] I need to get jazzed up. I can get jazzed up about pretty much anything so long as I have the data. Okay, today's show again is being, and I don't mean that in a negative way, I'm just saying they must like us, which we appreciate. Today's show is brought to you again by the Modernist Pantry. I will read the I'll read the promo word for word.
+
+[3:28] Today's show is sponsored by the Modernist Pantry, supplying innovative ingredients for the modern cook. Do you love to experiment with new cooking techniques and ingredients, but hate to overspend for pounds of supplies when only a few grams are needed per application? Modernist Pantry has a solution. They offer a wide range of modern ingredients and packages that make sense for the home cook or enthusiast, and most cost only around five bucks, saving you time, money, and storage space. Whether you're looking for hydrocolloids, pH modifiers, or even meat glue, you'll find it at Modernist Pantry.
+
+[3:56] And if you need something that they don't carry, just ask. Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you. With worldwide shipping, Modernist Pantry is your one stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients. Fans of cooking issues that order $25 or more before next week's show will get a free bottle of Pectinex Ultra SPL, the miracle enzyme. Simply use the promo code CI56 when placing your order online at WWW modernistpantry.com.
+
+[4:22] Visitors modern visit modernistpantry.com today for all of your modernist cooking needs. How was that? Good? Jack, was that strong? It's pretty good.
+
+[4:31] Good? Alright. Stronger than some of your previous reads. Oh, jeez. Of this one or of different ones?
+
+[4:36] Different sponsors. Yeah, you know, I'm never gonna hear the end of it. Like, uh, listen, if you're gonna sponsor this show, right, and you're gonna make a piece of equipment that I've never used before, right? I'm just saying it's hard for me to get enthused. I can't make a claim for a piece of equipment that I've never used.
+
+[4:52] It's like not in my nature. It's just I can't do it. You know what I mean? Like, I don't mind shilling out and selling stuff that you know that I know I I agree with, that I know they make a good product, right? So, like, you know, I don't know, poly science.
+
+[5:04] I like their circulators, so I don't mind shilling for them. Do you know what I'm saying? But if I've never used your stuff before, how am I gonna sell it? Jack, you're still mad at me about that? Sorry, no, I'm not mad.
+
+[5:14] Alright, alright. Okay. I'm impressed that you've memorized seven of the ten digits in the phone number. Oh, yeah. By the way, guys, I still don't have the phone number for this show memorized.
+
+[5:22] I've had listeners who have it memorized. I don't have it memorized, but I'm getting very, very close. I'm just missing the f the middle three digits, and then we're gonna be good. Okay. Uh uh who said this question, by the way, Nastash, I don't have the name on the Ikijime.
+
+[5:29] You'll find it. So I have a question in uh from about Ikajime. Ikijime, by the way, is uh the fish killing technique uh that we that we use uh that we studied, uh Japanese style, uh and there's different levels of ikijime. Ikajimi really just means fish killing. But uh we use in particular a technique uh called Shinke Nuki, which means destroy the spine.
+
+[5:53] And the idea being that by destroying the spine of the fish, uh you you you basically what happens is is that the spine keeps sending messages to the muscles even after you've killed the brain. And so uh those messages that are getting sent to the muscles reduce the amount of ATP that's available that's it that's in the muscles because the muscles are using the ATP. The faster you use that up, the faster you go into rigor. The faster you go into rigor, typically the harder you go into rigor mortis. And fish muscle is so strong that uh, you know, it it's it it the strength of the contraction is strong enough to actually damage the muscle.
+
+[6:25] So when it comes out of rigor, uh if it if it goes into rigor very hard and very fast, um gets damaged, gets mushy. So if you're gonna serve uh a piece of fish, uh certain fish, and you do this thing with spinal cord ablation, shinkanuki, you can uh get a firmer textured fish. So that's that's what we're talking about. And here's the question. I'm curious to hear your thoughts on Ikajime and how much it would could really improve the flavor and texture of fish caught on a rod and reel.
+
+[6:49] I'm going to the Gulf Coast next week and hope to catch king mackerel, redfish, bluefish, and maybe some flounder and speckled trout. By the time a fish has landed, I will have been uh I will it will have been struggling against the line for maybe as long as 10 minutes or as few as thirty seconds. Big fish will be gaffed, then hauled up onto the fishing pier. At that point, the custom in the area is to whack it over the head and dispatch it, then throw it in the cooler. My question is to what extent can Ikijimi improve the outcome?
+
+[7:15] The fish will be stressed regardless of how it's subsequently treated. My plan would be to bring the fish to the pier, then either knife the brain or simply cut through the backbone blood vessels behind the head, then cut the tail, destroy the spinal column, and then bleed in ice water. An alternative would be to fillet immediately. If the cooler is too big for a whole fish, fingers crossed, because he wants a big fish. Then bleeding in ice water.
+
+[7:41] Any procedural suggestions would be appreciated. Okay. This is an excellent, excellent question. His name is Andy. Hey Andy.
+
+[7:48] This is an excellent question, Andy, because one of the things I've always wondered on IKime is the effect of post-catch stress on uh on an animal. Now, you obviously you want the animal to be as little stressed and as rested as is humanly possible. And that's not necessarily possible when you line catch something. I've had only one experience with uh line caught boat ikojimaid uh game fish in our waters, and that's in striped bass. So I did a shoot with uh Dave Chang uh for his iPad application.
+
+[8:22] I don't know if it's out yet or not. I don't know. Anyway, uh and uh one of the uh production assistants there uh fishes off of Montauk regularly, went out on a boat and got uh lime caught stripers and did Ikojime with the spinal cord ablation on uh one, and then basically, you know, uh whack over the head, gill cut, throw in a cooler with the other. And there was a definite difference in taste, the ikojime one being uh better, having a better texture. So that's only an N of one, so it's very hard to know uh whether or not it in all cases.
+
+[8:55] I mean, in other words, any time you get the fish and you do the ikajime, you're you're increasing the quality as much as possible. Would you like there to be less stress as the thing is being caught? Sure. But I think it's it's definitely getting uh you're definitely going to get some help, at least in the very small amount of experience I've had with line caught fish, uh Ikijime, there was a there was a difference. Um you know, obviously the ones that are struggling 30 seconds are going to be the best.
+
+[9:22] Also, you know, uh I would guess that the the bigger, stronger fish, the stronger a fish is, the kind of the more of effect you're gonna get. Now, listen, I really need you when you go to uh this is what I want you to do. Please, Andy, if you can do this for me, I want you to catch two bluefish. I mean, I know you can't control it, but I want you to catch two bluefish, and I want you to do ikijime on one, and I want you to not do ikijime on the other one. And I want you to tell me whether there is a difference on bluefish specifically.
+
+[9:53] The reason I'm interested in blue fish is bluefish is one whose texture and flavor can go off relatively quickly uh after it comes out of, you know, after it's killed. And I want to know whether ikijime can help with it, because it's also a fish that really isn't eaten, I don't think, in Japan. And so it could be really an American kind of test on this. Plus, I love bluefish. Some people don't like bluefish.
+
+[10:12] I love bluefish, and I've never been able to get uh Ikijime blue fish. So please, please test that. Now, uh instead of whacking over the head, uh, after you gaff the fish and bring it over, I would immediately uh I would spike its brain. Um and the reason is is that stops it from flopping around and it's very easy to hit as opposed to trying to do a gill cut. Right?
+
+[10:34] You could hit it over the head and then do the gill cut, but I think you're better off spiking the brain. That like kills it like this and takes away the stress, and then you have an easier time getting to the spinal cord. Now I would cut the spinal cord and the tail. I'm trying to learn how to go through the head of the fish to get the spinal cord, so you don't necessarily need to do the cut before you do the spinal cord ablation, but I'm not not quite there yet, because that's how they do it on tuna. Uh but uh so I would I would put it through the head first, then uh do the two cuts, put it through the spinal cord, and when you get it through the spinal cord, if you've never done it before, you can see the fish uh it'll do like a shimmy as the needle goes down.
+
+[11:08] So you know exactly how far the needle has gone down and and through the fish. So you you you know where you are. Now I would um if the cooler is not big enough, I think you're gonna have some problems. Here's why you don't want to cut open the fish. Uh cut it into pieces first.
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+[11:23] You want the blood uh pumping, basically. You want the heart to help pump out the uh the the blood to really really really clean it out. So uh if you can, please don't chop it into pieces before you get it into the cooler. Maybe actually if you can get down to the water, you can just bleed it in the water where the fish is. I don't know how high up the pier is or whether you can get to the water.
+
+[11:43] Another suggestion gut it right there after you do the Ikijime, gut it. Uh as you after you open it up, bring a a stiff brush with you, uh, and then go under uh take your um take your knife and go and cut along the membrane that's on the underside of the spine to expose and cut open the blood vessels that are running underneath the spinal column and scrub that underwater with a brush to get all of that goopy stuff out because that goes uh off as well. I would pull the gills out immediately and then take it and ice it and put it in the thing. I think that's gonna be like Uber maximum quality. What do you think, Stuzz?
+
+[12:20] That's good. He also wanted to know one another thing. Oh, yeah, I haven't I haven't read a second. Oh no, but there's one more after that. One more after the other one that I'm about to read.
+
+[12:29] All right. Uh okay. So uh Andy also has a question on canning and pasteurization. It's a two-part question. He says most canning recipes call for the sealed jars to be processed for 10 minutes in boiling or simmering water, supposedly to kill any nasties and ensure a safe product.
+
+[12:43] And the low temperature charts on the bl on the blog, cookingissues.com, uh, which I realize are dedicated towards meat and poultry. Uh I say that anything over 74 degrees Celsius is instantly safe. Do I need to process in the water bath for 10 minutes to achieve sterility, or is the 10 minute cook more for textual reason? Um and then B, I did not use enough pickling liquor in a couple of jars, and subsequently not all of the pickled green beans are fully covered with a liquid. Is that a major problem?
+
+[13:09] Okay. Couple of things going on here. Uh so if you're gonna can okay. We're talking about pasteurization versus sterility, okay. Um you're processing something in first of all, if you're gonna can an item, if you want to achieve sterility, right?
+
+[13:30] You have to, you can't just boil in in simmering water. You have to uh sterilize that thing, which means you have to pressure cook it using uh you know recognized canning procedures. And those canning procedures are based on uh I think what's in the what's in the can or what's in the jar and how big the jar is, because you have to guarantee a certain temperature for a certain length of time at the center of your jar in order to kill any spores that are in there. So there are certain bacteria, and the one they're really worried about in canning is botulism, which uh which basically forms spores and can't be boiled out with normal boiling. You have to go well over the boiling temperature and actually sterilize.
+
+[14:14] Okay. Now, the reason you can do canning at lower temperatures without a pressure cooker in certain situations is because you have enough acidity present in your product to or salt or combination of salt and acidity to ensure that no botulism is going to grow in there. And if that's the case, you just need to kill off some of the easier to kill bacteria that aren't spore-forming, and all the spore-forming bacteria don't grow because of the very high salt content or very high acid content or both. So when you are boiling something or simmering it for 10 minutes at boil, you're just ensuring you're getting to that high of a temperature. That's not really a sterilization procedure.
+
+[15:00] So the question is really, what are you trying to guard against? You could uh you could cook for a longer period of time at a lower temperature and kill everything that's in there from a vegetative standpoint and therefore get a different texture, right? But only if your product is inherently safe from a spore standpoint. So let me make this very clear very, very, very, very clear. If you are gonna sterilize, if you want to sterilize something and make a shelf stable product that you can leave on an unrefrigerated shelf for uh an infinite length of time, you have to either can it using a pressure canner using recognized procedures for pressure canning, or you have to ensure that you have enough salt or acidity in that can to ensure that no spores, no spore-forming bacteria are gonna grow after you do your initial kill step.
+
+[15:56] Spore. Spore. So, and if you if if you have that, you can cook at a lower temperature for longer and basically effectively pasteurize the product, but not sterilize it. On the second part of the question, where you're worried about there not being enough uh cooking liquor in the you know, pickling liquid in it, that could conceivably be a problem if it doesn't diffuse in fast enough. You could get possibly some growth of uh product uh in the portion of the thing that's uncovered.
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+[16:24] It's very hard to say without uh knowing it first. But be very careful when you're canning uh to ensure that you're not gonna grow botulism! Let's take our first commercial break. Hey, hey, hey, hey, hella can't be helped. And I'm coming from a brand new place.
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+[17:11] I'm feeling quick and I don't miss the lick. And I better don't leave no trace. Hey, check it out. Take it out. Take off this new liquor what about my nutrients?
+
+[17:25] And believe me, the capsule speaker feeling hard. The capstone's beat DLS hard. Some cat with the bed for the pause. Check me out. That's where the bust will start.
+
+[17:43] Buff the start. Taking place. So keep our pipe when you got the whole life and the bottles can't make okay. Gotta be on the hip butt. Welcome back.
+
+[18:19] Are we on? Welcome back to Cooking Issues. 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. Chris Young is still on his way, still caught on the BQE.
+
+[18:34] Which for those of you who don't know our uh fine neighborhoods over here sucks. Right, Jack? It does. It does suck. Especially flushing ev sucks.
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+[18:44] And that's kind of where it's close to where that's close to where we are. Probably where he's getting off, yeah. Yeah, you know, Roberta's, like I tell you why Robert is designed uh basically solely for hipsters. And the only train really that services this place is the L, which is the hipster line. You know?
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+[18:59] Uh we were like they threatened to shut down the L, didn't they, Nastasha? For like a for like a week or something like that? Didn't you say that? Every weekend it's shut down. So what are the hipsters gonna do?
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+[19:08] There's uh there's a website that we can plug called Is the L Trainfucked.com. Wow, busting out the F. F bomb, F bomb, what? I'm not, I mean, I Jack already told him about it. They can go to it, and the answer is pretty much yes.
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+[19:23] Yes. Well, here's the here's the real question. Do you need to get somewhere? Then the L train won't take you. If you don't need to get there in a big hurry, the L train will be fine.
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+[19:32] I think that's pretty much pretty much how the L trained. You can take the J. Yes, you can take the J if you enjoy a 20 minute walk. Okay. Uh hello.
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+[19:42] Another a different Andrew writes. Oh, by the way, Andy emailed us while I was talking about that and says, How long do you want to age the bluefish and or mackerel when you catch it? I don't know. It's really something you have to kind of uh test. I would uh after you get it home, I would take and uh cut them into two fillets.
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+[19:56] I would taste some right away, uh, and then I would uh like keep it a day and then test it there. I doubt it's gonna take longer than a day to be good. I mean, most people who eat bluefish, they want you to eat it right, right away. I mean, like if you if you ever grew up fishing on Cape Cod, or you know, you grew up on near Cape Cod in the summers and people fished for you, which is what happened to me. They would give you bluefish and because it was considered a trash fish, uh, you know, when I was growing up, and uh they would tell you to eat it right away, and strangely, it's known as a very oily fish, and they would tell you uh they would always grill it, always 100% of the time it would be grilled.
+
+[20:30] I've never had it cooked any other way on the cape. And they would tell you to put mayonnaise on the fish. And here I think I've mentioned this on the show before, but they say oil they don't talk like this because they're from Cape Cod. Oil gets out oil. That's how it works.
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+[20:43] You put the mayonnaise on the fish because oil gets out oil. Doesn't make any damn sense to me at all. Makes no damn sense. But that's I'm just telling you, that's what they used to say. Uh I know, you know, mackerel, another oily fish you don't think of as aging necessarily, but some of the most interesting best mackerel I've ever had was Sabasushi, which was basically mackerel that had been aged overnight wrapped in combu.
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+[21:00] Like he fought like the chef uh Sas, I think it was Sasaki san, formed uh, you know, basically a roll with a vinegared rice and the mackerel, wrapped it in combu, and aged it overnight, which was delicious. So I think it's just you have to see. I just have to test it. You're gonna test it and you're gonna tell us how long to age it. Rice does it.
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+[21:19] Yeah, she's not listening. Yeah, we're doing a radio show. No, I just asked you to that was that was like a half hour ago. She's condense this question. Oh, yes, she is condensing a question.
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+[21:29] She is doing work for the radio show people, so I apologize. Okay. Uh Andy, Andrew, different Andy Retson. I have a few questions I've stored up rather than emailing you one little question each week. Hope that's okay.
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+[21:40] Uh so firstly, I was wondering about the mechanics of cartouches and whether there's really a reason to use one over just putting a lid on. Uh and what we're talking about here, a cartouche is not uh in cooking parlance, it's not like an Egyptology term. In cooking parlance, a cartouche is a piece of parchment paper that you cut into a circle, uh, and then you cut a little circle in the middle so that it just fits into a pot. Uh, and usually you're gonna use that in when you're brazing something, you'll put that in. And uh, and or if you're cooking um certain times you're cooking vegetables, you'll do that.
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+[22:14] You'll put a little bit of water uh, you know, and sugar and whatnot, uh, you know, butter, whatever, uh, in your vegetables, and you'll put uh uh like a cartouche over it and cook it. Now the theory of them is that it allows a certain amount of moisture to leave through the central hole in the in in the paper, right? Kind of like a parachute, let's some of the steam out. So you get a slow reduction, right? Without it getting a like it's it's not super fast.
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+[22:40] It's kind of a controlled reduction. And also it keeps uh basically a hundred percent humidity environment over the portions of the paper that are covered. So you're not gonna get on a braised item, for instance, you're not gonna get a lot of drying out of the meat that is not directly centered over the hole, right? That makes sense. So uh is there a big difference between that and just putting a lid on?
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+[23:07] I don't know. You know, I've never I've never really done the test. I can tell you how many times at home I've made uh I've made the cartouche roughly zero. You know what I mean? Like on the order of zero is how many I mean that's not true.
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+[23:19] I used to do it sometimes for the for the heck of it. I just don't know that there's gonna be that much benefit over keeping uh the lid on. I'd have to run a side-by-side test and see whether it really controls the uh evaporation rate any better or whether or not it actually prevents uh kind of some surface drying of the meat. Maybe this is something when Chris makes it here from the BQE, we can uh we can ask him about, yeah? I'll put that on the list of things to talk to him about cartouche because I'm sure that they've studied that because they did a bunch of in-depth studies of um classic cooking techniques on and you know they like to debunk the classic cooking techniques, so we can actually get him going on uh on uh confie as well, get it get it get his motor going on confie.
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+[24:02] Okay. Uh my other questions about the method you talked about some shows ago with using gelatin and meat glue to make noodles. By the way, this is a Wiley Dufrein trick. Uh, one of the great properties of gelatin, as I'm sure you know, is it's fantastic flavor release. Is this still the case in this application?
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+[24:17] Uh also uh is there any benefit in using this method over other thermoirreversible gels for making noodles, I guess. Now, uh that's an interesting question. I've had the noodles, and the noodles are delicious. Uh also they fry really well, better than any other kind of hydrocolloid noodle I've had. Uh, as for the flavor release, I mean, it seemed to me that they had a good flavor release because it's just my recollection.
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+[24:40] It would be okay. Gelatin, anytime you use a gel, you you care about whether or not that gel has a good flavor release. So for instance, uh alginate gel doesn't break up in your mouth very well, uh, doesn't leak out a lot of fluid, uh, so is basically the worst for flavor release. It's a flavor thief. It's uh, you know, it's kind of it's alginates are the enemy of flavor, which is why you either want a very thin or very soft uh alginate shell uh or you know, a lot of something very, very flavorful, otherwise you're gonna get a lot of the flavor sapped out.
+
+[25:18] And that's the problem a lot of times with things like alginate. Um things like gel-an have very good flavor release because they leak a lot of moisture, they break very easily in the mouth, and they uh and they're used at very low concentration, so they tend to mask flavor less. Gelatin is kind of the gold star standard for flavor release for a number of reasons. Uh it breaks very easily in the mouth, liquid comes out, and also it melts at body temperature. So when you eat it, uh gelatin literally melts in your mouth and turns back to a liquid.
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+[25:49] Flavor release doesn't get much better than that, right? So in this scenario where we're basically what we're doing is we're taking transglutaminase meat glue, stirring it in with the gelatin, the meat glue is cross-linking the gelatin so that the gelatin will no longer melt, not only at body temperature, but it won't melt even at at deep frying temperatures. So one of the things that gives uh gelatin its great flavor release, the fact that it melts in your mouth, is not gonna happen. However, uh it still breaks up very nicely in your mouth, almost like a pasta. So is it gonna have as good a flavor release as straight gelatin?
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+[26:24] I would bet not. But it, you know, it is gonna have a better, it does have a good flavor release, and that's just from kind of you know me, me knowing that from eating it. Yeah? Mm-hmm. Yeah.
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+[26:29] Okay. Um finally, although it's not really finally because he has the fourth question. By the way, when you s when you guys write in and you say finally, make it the final question. Ask as many as you like, but make the final one the last one. All right.
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+[26:48] Uh just kidding. I'm just kidding, Andrew, I don't really care. Okay. Uh, in your post on enzymatic peeling, you use a combination of two enzymes. Uh I used uh Pectinex Ultra SPL, which is the one that they're selling on Monarch's Pantry, and Pectinex Smash XXL, which was the first one of the enzymes really that uh I was using for breaking down pectin.
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+[27:08] Uh and when I wrote the uh and post on peeling things with uh enzyme enzymes, I used both. Have you found that Pectenex Smash XXL is not really necessary? In other words, can you do it just with Pectinex Ultra SPL? Yes. Um you can.
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+[27:23] So I no longer bother sourcing Pectinex uh Smash XXL. I find that if you just add a little bit more of the Pectanex Ultra SPL uh that it works fine. The reason I initially used both was uh the the people at Novazymes, the enzyme uh person at Novozymes uh said that the one that was most optimum they used to make an enzyme called Peelzyme, whose only job it was was to break down um the kind of membrane around citrus fruits and also the albedo, the white part in a citrus fruit, right? That's all that thing was built for, peelzyme. They stopped making uh peelzyme.
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+[28:01] Chris Young is coming, I see him coming around. Uh they stopped making peel zyme. And so what the enzyme specialist at Novozyme said was why don't you use a mixture of uh Smash XXL and uh ultra SPL? But then later it's just slightly more effective. So I just use a little more uh of the one enzyme than you would of the two combined and it works fine.
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+[28:22] We use about four grams per liter ultra SPL uh in our in our solutions to do our peeling. So that's gonna work fine. All right. We are joined in the studio by none other than Chris Young, author of Modernist Cuisine, friend of friend of mine, friend of uh friend of the cooking issues, and uh our one of our West Coast buddies. What's going on, Chris?
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+[28:49] Not too much. Very frustrated with your traffic here in New York. Uh yes, not used to it. Not used to it. I like that.
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+[28:55] You know, in in in in Seattle, everything's nice. The traffic's nice, me, me, me, me, me. Yeah, that's uh that's I think why I'm gonna go right back. I like the West Coast. All right.
+
+[29:04] Uh one question for you before I before I forget. We had someone write in, I don't know if you address this in modernist cuisine. Uh by the way, call in all of your questions to Chris at 7184972128. That's 7184972128. So someone's saying, you know, cartouches, you know, where you cut the paper and then you cut the little hole in the center of the paper and you put it in the pot so that it uh kind of gently boils down.
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+[29:26] Any any point in that as opposed to a lid? Not really one that I could possibly think of. Uh all you're gonna do is slow down the evaporation, keep it closer to the boiling point, but uh no, I don't really see any benefit to it over a lid. Yeah, me neither. Well, that's the thing.
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+[29:43] So the question is, is uh will you are you gonna prevent any local? So if you have a very tall pot, right? And I'm just talking right out of my behind here, but if you have a very tall pot and you have, let's say, uh, that was my iPad, folks, and you have like a uh uh like an asebuco or something like that. Sure. Uh, and so your liquid's not covering the thing.
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+[30:03] Do you think it's gonna get any drier because of the because of the steam basically hitting that one section that's not covered? Is it really not going to make a difference? You're gonna have like a local deficit of humidity there. I mean, I don't know. That's the only event.
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+[30:15] I don't see it making in the oven. I I can see there being a bit of an argument for using one in a brazen and oven. Uh on a stovetop, I don't see any benefit over a lid. I I think that's highly suspect that it's gonna make a significant difference there. But in an oven, you are gonna slow down evaporation, you're gonna raise the wet bulb temperature, and you're going to get an effective higher brazing temperature than if you left it uncovered.
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+[30:37] Oh, sure. By the way, this is something that uh I you know, as long as Chris is here, let's debunk this sucker right now. You are not creating any pressure in a pot by putting uh a lid on. Uh even a minute overpressure in your pot is many pounds of force on a large lid. You are not increasing the pressure to the extent that you're increasing the temperature on the inside of that pot.
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+[31:09] What you are doing by preventing uh evaporation is getting your temperature actually up to the boil throughout rather than uh rather than allowing it to uh be basically be evaporative cooler. So an experiment you should run at home is take an oven with two Pyrex dishes, uh same Pyrex dish, set your oven to 350, uh cover one Pyrex dish with aluminum foil tightly, uh, and then you know, jam a lid into it so that you know you're not getting much evaporation off of it, and then leave the other one open. The one that's covered will boil, the one that is not covered won't. Agree? Yeah.
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+[31:46] Yeah. Anyway. Uh huh okay. So Chris, how was your main stage perfor how was your how do you feel about it? This is your second time on the main stage of Starchest by the way, right?
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+[31:57] Uh yes, this was my second time. Uh this this was a bit interesting. I think we attempted to do a a little more cooking this time and a little less uh dog and pony show uh which went pretty well except for the fact that we were cut short by about fifteen minutes. Yeah. You know and when you're doing a show that you set up from kind of far away you have X amount to do and you know you're gonna do a lot, you don't want to get I mean 15 minutes is a big deal.
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+[32:20] No, I had to cut a lot out and we had to compress a lot of a lot of steps. So uh luckily my colleague Kyle was able to keep up with me as I drop stuff. But uh it was entertaining. Came came complete with its own explosions. Oh yeah well so uh I didn't realize what happened.
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+[32:33] Apparently what happened okay so we might as well get into this. So one of the things look modernist cuisine costs five hundred bucks right and and I get this knock and I don't have nearly the kind of crap that you guys had. So I'm sure you get this knock even more than I have that this is stuff is you need a lot of equipment, blah blah blah blah blah. You've heard this bullshit many times. I I've certainly heard people assume that you need thousands of dollars worth of toys to do this stuff.
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+[32:58] Which by the way not the case. That's just the way I feel about it. But uh so one of the demos that Chris uh did yesterday at Starchefs was to do um low temperature reductions without having to buy a rotovap. So basically your ability to do low temperature reductions in a in a restaurant situation uh for under five hundred bucks relatively effectively, yes? Yes, that's that was the point.
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+[33:36] Is how do you how do you get on eBay a little Google foo and put together your own evaporative uh reduction system or vacuum reduction system? Right. So it's not it's not a distillation system because you can't recover. No. Uh actually, you know what, then it's totally legal though, even to do port in it because you can't recover.
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+[33:53] That's right, you're not recovering any of the vapors. So it it's not a replacement for a roto vap, but it is fun to point out and just needle you a little saying you don't actually need a roto vap to do what eighty percent of people do with it. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Although you know, I am I am the uh uh the other section where I am almost always using the illegal distillate, but in restaurants you can't because you know you can't, you know, endanger your liquor licenses. That's the the main problem.
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+[34:16] So what Chris did was he set up uh an aspirator pump. You had a nice one though. That one's not a cheap one. Uh well we bought that one used though. So I think if you were to buy that one new, yes, it would probably be about a thousand dollars new.
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+[34:27] There's no reason for it to cost that much. Uh I saw them used on eBay for around five hundred. But I didn't get into this yesterday, but you don't even need that. You can even buy the aspirating nozzles that screw on a on a faucet and just use the venturi effect to basically give you a vacuum, and that's what thousands of chemistry labs around the country do. Right, but then your boiling temperature is only gonna get down to whatever I mean, look, here's a way an aspirator works is you're you shoot liquid past uh um an orifice at a high velocity, it carries basically the air with it and sucks a vacuum.
+
+[35:02] You the you're limited in the in the vacuum that you can suck by uh basically by whatever the vapor pressure of water happens to be at the temperature that the water is. So the most effective way to do this is to use ice water. Uh and so recirculating aspirator pumps are uh the way to go if you want to get the lowest stuff, and if you don't believe in throwing water away, like absurd amounts of water away, because you're talking like gallons, gallons and gallons and gallons. Now, I'm not going to tell you to go on uh the internet, search uh for do it yourself meth labs and see how those guys use a flowjet pump hooked up with PVC tubes to aspirators to build your own recirculating aspirator because I wouldn't advocate that you go up and look up uh do it yourself meth labs. But if you wanted to, you could go there and for about uh you with at Home Depot, you can get a good pump that'll do this for like, you know, eighty bucks, ninety bucks, and then you just go buy uh series, you have to buy two or three aspirators, put them in uh in um parallel to get a higher rate of pump down, and you can do this.
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+[36:15] Although I'm not advocating it, but you can do it. I'm not I'm advocating the pump, not the not the meth. Yeah, I I I think that's what's coming across here, Dave, although I'm not entirely sure. Yeah, yeah. Well, you know what?
+
+[36:26] Like until until they get so tweaked out that they blow themselves up in their own lab, like you're you start with like a uh people who are smart enough to do orgo, basically, right? And you know, kind of ambitious enough to build their own setups. And uh so, you know, they have some good ideas and then they you know I think what I'm hearing here is you're not you're advocating buying some uh stuff at Home Depot, not some phenylalanine solution. Bingo. Okay.
+
+[36:50] Yeah. Yes. Yeah, okay. So uh anyway, look, we can learn from everyone. Learn learn from meth labs if if they if they're there to help you.
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+[36:57] Uh but what I was really interested in with this setup is so basically it's just uh uh an Erlenmeyer flask with a sidearm uh a plug in it and uh stirring hot plate and a stirring hot plate although you know you could get away with look you don't want to ignite it. So you can get away with you could get away with I guess you need it to stir yeah you want to avoid the bumping that that's sort of the aside from stirring and getting yourself a nice vortex for greater surface area you will get it jumping all over the place if you were just to put it in a pot on a uh a hot stove. Right I mean my only problem with the with those stirring hot plates is that um they're they're not cheap you have to get them used. You have to get them used but uh there was a I I literally before my presentation yesterday Google eBay just to double check and there was a a huge number of them for around a hundred dollars um and they're they're dirt simple so there's not much that can break about them. Right but just so you guys who haven't used one out there they are great not gonna deny that um you you know and they and this managed bars are like two bucks for McMastercar.com or Cold Parm or whatever they're like two bucks they're nothing uh the one problem I have with them is that their heat rate is very very slow.
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+[38:13] So they will once they're stable they're good and ready to ready to rock but just know that when you turn one on don't expect it to get up to temperature instantly and they don't dump a lot of watts quickly into your which it's not a problem. You actually that's good for you. That's that's good. They're designed for a chemistry lab where stability of your temperature and accuracy is a lot more important than responsiveness. So it can be frustrating when you turn it on and it takes thirty minutes to to get to stable temperature.
+
+[38:39] But once it's there, who cares. Right. That's it that but that's my point. My point is is that is that it's going to take a cook a while to get used to the response. Is it really all that different than a French top?
+
+[38:50] I mean, a French top, you turn it on in the morning, you leave it on all day, it doesn't change temperature massively. And if you're used to that, you just leave this thing on all day and know that it's hot and don't touch it. That's that's a very good point. And but my all my another point I've always said is that I wish more cooks in the US were used to French tops. Because I did my cooking in over in the with the Euros.
+
+[39:10] Yeah, I mean, like I mean the amazing thing about about them uh is that I think it's really interesting to because on a French top, you don't you don't uh adjust temperature by adjusting knobs. You cook spatially. So you know uh kind of what you know you know what temperature your pot's gonna be based on where it is in space on the top, which I think is really great. I think it's really interesting way to cook, but again, not something that I think most U.S. cooks are used to.
+
+[39:36] No, and I think we'll probably end up skipping that and going to induction. Yeah, I mean, yeah. Um I was wondering is like, is there a problem doing an induction magster? Is it a problem or can it be done? I would think it could be done.
+
+[39:50] It might be a little bit of cleverness because you would need to you'd have you'd be trying to couple a magnetic field of the pot in the same time uh basically rotate that field to get your your uh stir spinning. So I imagine it could be done, but it wouldn't be trivial. Yeah. So anyway, so what Chris was talking about uh about the explosions yesterday was that uh he took the thing off of the heater to show that it was still gonna boil even though it wasn't being currently heated, and it's because we were lowering the pressure, or he was lowering the pressure in the Erlenmeyer using the uh aspirator, and uh set it down. Eventually, what happens is the aspirator starts getting the pressure down and the product starts cooling and it's no longer boiling, sucked enough of a vacuum to inhale the cap that was on the flask into the Erlenmeyer flask, and then ejected uh liquid out of the Erlenmeyer into the air.
+
+[40:42] Uh and it's kind of cool. I thought it was nice. Yeah, that that was rather spectacular. It it gave me pause. Yeah.
+
+[40:47] It was a good 10 seconds of going, what the hell just happened there? Yeah, well, you know, and this is uh oh, this is another good point. A couple things about this. One, I'm not gonna insult the gastrovac on air except to say that it doesn't work and it's useless. So uh the only way you can make GastroVac is by the way, is that is a machine that you buy that has a very bad vacuum pump on it.
+
+[41:07] That then should I be saying this? Do you agree with me on this? Um it's a bad vacuum pump. It's useless. Yeah, it's useless.
+
+[41:15] If you own a chamber vacuum machine, there's no reason to own a gastrovac. True or false. I don't think there's a reason to own a gastrovac full stop. Right. But if the gastrovac guys had, instead of putting that vacuum pump on it, put an ice bat an ice uh bath run aspirating pump.
+
+[41:32] Now I think you have uh uh a good thing. So the point of the Gastrovac is you're supposed to be able to do as Steingarten told us yesterday, Jeffrey Steingarden, was to do things like jellies at lower temperatures so that things don't caramelize, and to do like Wiley was was very very interested in vacuum frying for a long time so that you could get all the moisture. Well, and you can fry things that are very sweet that would burn at normal frying temperature. So bingo, they do this in the tropics in Thailand and stuff, they'll do deep fried pineapple chips. Sure.
+
+[42:00] Or or apple chips, another big one that you do that you you you want to totally dehydrate them in a frying situation, but not at at a lower temperature. But this isn't the way most people views their gastrovac, and that's I think why we're both saying this isn't uh a compelling technology. Right, because and here's the kicker, the gastrovac won't work for either of those two applications because anyone that knows anything about uh vacuums and distillations will tell you in order to boil something off, you need to either recondense it or your vacuum pump needs to be able to handle the vapor, and it can't. But Chris's aspirator pump, on the other hand, could do that because it can take as much water in as it wants. It doesn't matter.
+
+[42:40] That that is one of the beauties of it, is you can foul it up with the the worst vapors and it does not care. That's why we use them in Chem Labs uh for bust. Well, I'm not giving up my roto vap anytime soon. I think this would be a good solution to do kind of lower temperature jellies. If you want to reduce citrus juices or anything that has a real delicate aroma and flavor that would change with any high temperature boiling, this is the way to go.
+
+[43:04] So I'm gonna give it a qualified thumbs up. Listen, why don't we go to one more commercial break and we'll come back for another segment with Chris Young? Hey! Got the payback! Rubin!
+
+[43:30] A man! Got to get back! I need some get back. Payback. Payback!
+
+[43:43] That is payback! Revenge! I'm mad! Get down with MacGogriff! That ain't right!
+
+[43:59] Whoa! Holland Cass! Hey back! Here's a thing! You got the Cell!
+
+[44:26] Follow me out! Chicken chain! Told me they had all a rain! Hello, and welcome back to Cooking Issues. Call your questions in too.
+
+[44:42] Nastasha, what's the number? 7184972128. That's 7184972128. Alrighty. Oh, by the way, uh, before we go any further, Adam Lazarick uh wrote a question in before, and uh apparently there is a typo.
+
+[44:57] He wants everyone out there in internet land to know that he does not recommend cooking a uh was it a short rib, I think, uh, at 130 for eight hours. He knows that that's not long enough, so he doesn't want anyone to have that uh 130 F for eight hours attached to his name in any way, or uh to the uh LaCroix restaurant where he works in Philly, and we hope to get out to the next time we're in Philly. So for anyone out there listening, he knows better. I saw him a Star Chefs actually yesterday. Nice guy.
+
+[45:25] Okay. Uh and one more little note, uh, if I can get back to it, is uh in fact, I'll get back to the note, I'll have it be my my ending. Andrew wrote in and agrees with you about candies, but I'll read his, I'll read his notes on candies uh as we go. But uh oh, I also mentioned before you got here that uh you were a glider pilot. I am.
+
+[45:45] Yeah. That is the other hobby. Yeah. So well, gliding and cooking. That's it's you know, what else do you need?
+
+[45:51] So uh I want to talk about some of the stuff you're working with. I mean, look, everybody who's tunes into our show knows modernist cuisine. I feel like, you know, I like if you don't know I would be shocked if there's even one person who can hear my voice right now that doesn't already know about modernist cuisine because did our publicist pay you to say this? No, I mean I'm just saying I still you know, it's I can't I can't picture it. I can't look.
+
+[46:16] If you don't know it, if if you are the one person who was suddenly born and got interested in tech technical cooking, and this is the first thing you've ever heard about it, go Google modernist cuisine. Okay. Uh but let's talk about some of the stuff you're working on after the book. Sure. Uh one of the things I was interested in, you were telling me you were you were working on a project uh on milk in Africa.
+
+[46:38] You want to talk about that? Yeah, I can talk a little bit about that. So we did the cookbook at uh Nathan's day job, which is uh running a company called Intellectual Ventures, which uh uh simply put it's an invention company. And so the cookbook project was just one of many odd projects going on. We had anti-malaria projects involving lasers shooting mosquitoes down.
+
+[46:57] That was going on right in front of the kitchen. Um I've seen the laser, it's cool. Yeah, so um I got asked at the end of the book project, since um I'm kind of a uh uh technical food guy, if I would help out on another project that was going on the lab, which was um basically improving uh the milk situation in sub-Saharan Africa, particularly Kenya and Uganda. This is a Gates Foundation sponsored project. And we take it for granted here in this country that we can get milk from the farm, it can be shipped, it can be pasteurized, then it can be kept cold, shipped around and distributed, and we get this very fresh milk supply.
+
+[47:29] But in fact, that's a very recent technology. Even in this country, it's less than about 60 years old that we've reliably done that. And before that, we did all sorts of crazy wacky stuff, like putting formaldehyde in milk to try to eke out a little bit more shelf life because we didn't have a reliable cold chain. Delicious formaldehyde. Yeah, real tasty stuff.
+
+[47:49] So Africa, it turns out shipping things and keeping them cold, really difficult. Um reliable cold chain non-existent. And so by some estimates, 50% of the milk that these small whole dairy farmers produce spoils before it can be sold. Incidentally, it turns out that 50% they would need to increase their amount of milk sold by about doubling it to basically break the poverty trap. And most milk produced in Sub-Saharan Africa is by small hold dairy farmers who have two, maybe three cows.
+
+[48:19] Um they're not able to sell their milk before it spoils. And and then even then, uh they don't capture a lot of the value. The dairy traders do, who tend I mean, theoretically, all of the milk in Kenya is supposed to be pasteurized. In reality, 80% of the milk is purchased and sold and consumed raw. And actually that's not strictly true, because people don't drink raw milk, they would all be dropping like flies because it is basically diluted shit.
+
+[48:48] I mean, the the bacterial counts are fantastically, I mean, just mind-boggling numbers of over a hundred million collar units per per milliliter. So everyone boils the bejesus out of their milk, and as as a result of this, they turn out it turns out they like the flavor of boiled milk. Where you and I might go, Oh, that's a little kind of sweet tasting, not to not to my liking. We're used to fresh milk. Well, the insight that um I had was basically why don't we if they like the flavor of boiled milk, why are we putting all this effort into cooling it down?
+
+[49:19] Why don't we basically collect the milk, bring it up to sous vide temperatures, uh pasteurization temperatures, because that's very easy to do in Africa, and then hold it hot for many days at a time until it's sold, it's purchased hot, and then it can be used within several hours. So those of you guys out there, listen, here's the here's the thing, right? Boiling energy intensive, especially if taken from cold, right? So to cool down and then boil energy intensive, heating it up to not as high a temperature, but keeping it there, not as energy intensive. Right, and it's actually even more than that because what happens today is they transport the milk, it's chilled down, then it's heated up again, then it's chilled down again, and you have all these heating and cooling cycles, and then the problem is you've pasteurized it, and now it has to be kept cold to be shipped around, and that's the real falling down.
+
+[50:05] Is it forget even the total energy consumption, it's just not possible to ship it around cold. But if you have a very well-insulated container, it's very easy to ship it around hot, and so now you don't have the temptation that the current traders have of let me put formaldehyde in there, let me put hydrogen peroxide in there to try to prevent my inventory from spoiling before I can sell it off. So, how long can you hot hold? Um, we're we're actually working on finding out. I mean, you can hold indefinitely from a microbiological standpoint.
+
+[50:31] Taste though, from taste standpoint. That's going to be very subjective. To me, at three days, that's the the upper limit. What about for the consumer there? Well, we're doing sensory studies right now to figure it looks like at one and two days, almost everyone thinks the milk's fine.
+
+[50:44] At three days, maybe ten percent of people don't. It's gonna fall off by some amount, and so probably the price your milk commands falls off over a number of days, too. So the flavor profile, even though they're gonna boil it when they get it, yes. Uh is different if it's been held hot for longer than about three days. You're essentially running even though it's a very wet system, over that duration of time you get some mired reactions, so you actually get some caramel color form running some of those flavors.
+
+[51:10] Um the milk, yes, you've destroyed some of the micronutrients, but in fact in Africa the macronutrients is all you give a shit about. Right. Now, uh one of the problems you were saying in this also is getting heat exchanges that don't foul up in the field because you want this to be as simple as possible for the farmers. It has to be incredibly low tech, it has to cost less than 200 dollars to be a viable product. And how close are you to hitting that number?
+
+[51:34] We're very close. We're expecting to be doing pilot studies in January in Kenya. Right. And so now just so you guys know out there, because this is another thing I hate, is you know, you know, Chris has been involved in high high-tech cooking for uh a long time, and they say, you know, the stuff that you think about never has any kind of impact. And it is true that you know, tend to focus uh and the book focuses on things that uh are are aimed at a high end consumer, let's say.
+
+[52:02] But uh turning now the same kind it's the same thought process. It's like here are the givens, here's what we're trying to achieve, right? Here's the problem, here are the givens. What can we do with it? So it's the same kind of creative notion that can then be applied to this kind of a problem.
+
+[52:17] And I think what's you know, what's different about uh, you know, what at least my impression of what's one of the things that's different about what Chris is doing here uh with the Gates Foundation, right? And and and Nathan, I guess it's a lot of people. Yeah, it's intellectual ventures and the Gates Foundation. Uh is that starts from a uh science perspective, but more importantly from a cook. What tastes good?
+
+[52:37] How can we make this milk taste uh the way that these guys want the milk to taste? Not how do I want the milk to taste, or not like how do I just make it safe? How do I make milk that these guys want to drink that also is economically viable for them and and and and will also will also be safe. But the safety has to go with the it tastes good to them. Yeah, it's very funny because in a lot of situations people come in from the Western world and want to force a Western technology, a Western viewpoint onto them.
+
+[53:06] But in fact, they don't like the flavor of our pasteurized milk. It's too bland to them, whereas we like that blandness. They don't like homogenized milk at all. It's too lean tasting. They want that rich, full fat taste you get of of the raw, unhomogenized cream.
+
+[53:19] And so everyone who's looked at this problem before is trying to say, well, here's how we do it in the Western world, let us show you how it's done. And we took a slightly different attitude of saying, well, that's not what they like anyway, so why don't we just try to figure out how to give them what they like and we just have this problem of preventing the milk to spoil? You could do it cold, but why not do it hot? So what percentage uh do you think now of milk in Kenya just is unsalable because it goes bad? We think about fifty percent of the milk is is lost to spoilage.
+
+[53:44] Right. I think you said that before, but I just want to say it again. Fifty percent, right? So and how big a number is that? Oh, uh it would be trillion uh be um hundreds of millions, close to billions of liters probably annually.
+
+[53:57] Right. And so that's how many. That's over the broader sub-Saharan Africa region. And if you if you remember, so it's fifty percent of the milk is co going bad right now and is unsaleable, and that's about the number it would take yield-wise, dou double the current yield, i.e., not losing that fifty percent to get those farmers out of the poverty line. So you're talking this gets them to that place where they're no longer at the poverty line.
+
+[54:18] We're we're s I mean, this is part of a much broader initiative that the Gates Foundation has funded called the East African Dairy Development. And the idea is that milk is a major product for people, it's a major source of nutrition, it's a source of actually drinkable water. And so we're hoping that this is one step in basically really solving some of the problems over there. Small differences may have a big impact. Alright, nice.
+
+[54:40] I like that. Uh so doing good work. Uh uh is that laser thing with the mosquitoes actually working or no? Uh it is actually working. They were doing some testing of the the kill laser uh last week, I believe.
+
+[54:52] So this is basically uh like Ronald Reagan's anti-missile Star Wars thing, and it just shrunk by a couple orders of magnitude. Yep. I mean, quite literally, that's what it is, right? Yeah, the the basic idea is that uh if you can in a in a say around a village reduce the mosquito population by a significant amount. Don't totally eradicate it but reduce it, you can have a profound impact on how quickly malaria is transmitted.
+
+[55:16] So we decided to start shooting the lasers out of the sky with a laser. Yeah, it's crazy. I like that. It's crazy though. It's it's Looney's loony tunes, but it it does work.
+
+[55:24] All right. So here's what's gonna happen. I'm gonna read a comment on candy about Nastasha, and Chris is gonna comment on that. And while I'm doing this, I want him to think of something uh in cooking that he hates. And we'll end with something that he hates in cooking, right?
+
+[55:36] You gonna think about that while I read this? I'm gonna think about that. All right, Andrew writes in and he says he's also like to say that Andrew is totally with Nastasha on red, orange, and yellow candy being crap candy flavors. Artificial cherry, this is Andrew's words, not mine, is a vile abomination and sullies cherry's very name. I mean, come on.
+
+[55:54] If you can't make a flavor that is remotely like a delicious fresh cherry, don't use it at all. As for oranges and lemons, they're just boring. With the fantastic flavors that flavor houses producing candy manufacturers, they have no excuse to keep using these crap flavors. Still, the worst candy flavor of all time is popcorn jelly beans. I can force myself to eat other distasteful flavors like artificial cherry, and in turn increase my appreciation for the great flavors.
+
+[56:18] But Jelly Belly popcorn goes straight in the trash. Alright. Any comments, Nastasha? I agree. We have a caller just thing.
+
+[56:25] Oh, really? Alright, so Chris is gonna think about what he hates. And caller, you made it in just under the wire. Hi, uh, my name is Janani. Um, and I have a question about hard boiling eggs, actually.
+
+[56:35] Uh, I'm wondering if it's better to put the egg in uh when the water is still cold or to drop it in when it's hot. All right, listen, I'm gonna have what I think, but I'm gonna let Chris say what he thinks, and then we'll argue about it. What do you think, Chris? Generally speaking, I like so there's a pro and a con to it. I like putting it in cold because the egg doesn't tend to get the thermal shock and it doesn't tend to split on you.
+
+[56:54] But it becomes a lot more difficult to time it just right because how long is it gonna take that pot of water to get warm? And I've read studies that say it's harder to peel if you go from cold versus if you go in straight hot. But uh here's my thing. Are you timing your eggs very very rigorously? Uh no, I kind of just leave it and come back.
+
+[57:14] Then go from cold. Then go from cold, who cares? Yeah, I mean, look, these boiling water things, what they're doing is is they are uh they're they're getting a large, large pot of water boiling and they're plunging enough eggs in there that the temperature never really drops appreciably below the boil. And therefore, therefore, assuming you use the same size eggs all the time, you can get a very accurate temperature. If all you're concerned with is getting a hard boiled egg and not turning green on the outside of the yolk, then I would just bring it to just below the boil, leave it covered, and let it go back to cold, it won't get what do you think about this?
+
+[57:49] I think that's fine, and I'm gonna throw in one tip here. If you have a hard time peeling your your hard boiled eggs, get yourself a blowtorch. Oh. If you hit the shell with a blowtorch and then try to peel it, it's way easier. Like after it's pulled out, it's dry.
+
+[57:59] After it's done cooking, after it's dry, you just go around uh basically hitting the surface with a blowtorch for an intense pulse of heat, not really enough to cook it, but that shell will come away much more easily. Really? Great. Nice. Well, thanks for the call.
+
+[58:16] Great, thank you. All right. You're welcome. So, Chris, to take us on out of this, give me something you hate. Uh, I hate uh I hate the label of molecular gastromedy.
+
+[58:26] Boom! And I hate the parlor tricks that tend to come with it. Oh, yeah! Give me some more, give me a stop. For about 10 years I've been associated with this kind of cooking.
+
+[58:35] And I will go into restaurants, I see lots of foams, lots of gels, and done well. These can be wonderful, they can be exciting, and they should exist. But first and foremost, it has to be good cooking. And I'm getting tired of going into restaurants where people figure out who I am and all of a sudden the gels start come flying out. So I despise that.
+
+[58:52] Stop. Nice. Nice. And have you ever met someone who calls themselves a molecular cook whose work you respect? Oh, going rough!
+
+[59:03] I can't think of it off the top of my head. Don't use molecular gastronomy. Thanks, Chris Young. This has been Cooking Issues. Oh, you did that.
+
+[59:28] Got me on this corner. And I don't know where I'm at. Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store.
+
+[59:56] You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening. The Heritage Meat Shop has just opened in the Essex Street Market. Open from 9 to 7 Monday through Saturday and 10 to 6 on Sundays. The Heritage Meat Shop supports independent family farms and animal welfare approved and certified humane raising standards.
+
+[1:00:24] Most importantly, they offer a wide variety of heritage breeds. So stop by, get a sandwich, try the charcuterie, the Heritage Meat Shop at the Essex Street Market. The following is a message from Heritage Foods USA. Fourteen family farms and over 50 restaurants have committed to participation in No Goat Left Behind, a new program developed by Heritage Foods USA, a meat distribution company dedicated to preserving endangered breeds. Without an end market, the majority of male dairy goats are sold into the commodity market or killed at birth.
+
+[1:00:54] Dairy farmers are always struggling with feed prices, milk prices, and weather. Goats usually have twins or triplets, and for every female who will become a milker, there is a male buckling who will become a financial drain. It makes no sense that these males are sold into the commodity market or put to death when the United States imports almost 50% of its annual goat supply. Home consumers interested in participating can order goats through HeritageFoods USA.com. They will receive goats via FedEx, and home delivery is available for New York City customers.
+
+[1:01:23] In addition to the goat, these packages will also include recipes and a DVD featuring interviews with the farmers, processors, and chefs demonstrating how to break down and cook goat. Again, for more information on No Goat Left Behind, visit www.heritagefoodsusa.com or call Aaron Fairbanks at 718-389-0985.
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+[0:02] Broadcasting live from Roberta's in Bushwick, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you live on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from 12 to 1245. Join today in the studio, of course, as always with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez.
+
+[0:39] How are you doing, Nastasha? She's she's coming fresh off of looking at spaces for our new business, yeah? Yes. Anything good? Yeah, there are some great places, Dave.
+
+[0:48] Really? Are you just saying that? No, it was awesome. She's got she's got a crazy she's got a crazy sarcastic look on her face, people. So I don't know.
+
+[0:54] She thinks she can get away with like doing that without me making a comment on the radio. Warehouses? Yeah. Windows? No.
+
+[1:00] Why? Well, Nastasha's never worked in a place with windows before. Have you ever worked in a place with windows? Yeah, and jobs that paid me. Uh so you want me to stop that check from coming to Stash's house?
+
+[1:10] Oh, hey, Drew! Drew Salmon from Homo Fuku Enterprises. If you're listening, please stop paying Nastash's channel. I wasn't talking about Drew. I was talking about something else.
+
+[1:18] No, oh, okay. Oh, so you admit that Drew is paying you? Yes. Okay. Uh but Nastasha doesn't like to ro uh work in any sort of room uh with windows.
+
+[1:27] So if you have uh uh maybe a sub basement for Nastasha to work in, anything. Um she has one other requirement besides the fact that it can't have any natural light, uh it must also be extremely loud, right? There has to be a refrigerator working in it at all times. Uh like a like a large one. It also has to be um uncomfortably hot at all times.
+
+[1:48] Hey, have you ever been to Patrick Martins' office? Yeah. Yeah, yeah. And you have to uh have people try to store things in your office at any given moment. Large things.
+
+[1:56] Yes. Yeah. That's uh that's what Nastasha likes. Anyway, calling all of your questions, cooking or uncooking related to 718-497-2128. I didn't memorize it.
+
+[1:59] I have it written down. That's 718-497-2128. All right. Today's show is sponsored by Modernist Pantry. These guys love us, right, Jack?
+
+[2:12] Yeah, they we love them. Yeah, nice. Anyway, today's show is sponsored by Modernist Pantry, supplying innovative ingredients for the modern cook. Do you love to experiment with new cooking techniques and ingredients, but hate to overspend for pounds of supplies when only a few grams are needed per application? Nastasha hates to overspend.
+
+[2:27] I do. Uh Modernist Pantry has a solution. They offer a wide range of modern ingredients and packages that make sense for the home cook or enthusiast, and most cost only around five bucks, saving you time, money, and storage space. Whether you're looking for hydrocolloids, pH modifiers, or even pH modifiers, it means buffers, right? Right.
+
+[2:43] Buffers. Uh pH modifiers or even meat glue, you'll find it at Modernist Pantry. And if you need something that they don't carry, just ask. Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you with worldwide shipping. By the way, worldwide shipping.
+
+[2:54] I was in Columbia, and apparently a lot of the Columbia of the country, which, you know, I just got back again, so we'll talk about that maybe. Uh, these guys have trouble getting some of the stuff down there. They were telling me everything's really expensive. Like meat glue's really, really expensive, gel an's really, really expensive. I don't know.
+
+[3:08] Maybe Chris ships down to Columbia. I don't know. That's Columbia with an O, by the way, not with a U. Okay. Uh, where was I?
+
+[3:14] Uh with worldwide shipping, Modernist Pantries your one-stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients. This week, Modernist Pantry is introducing its perfected guar gum. This exclusive formulation has advantages over traditional guar. First, it is prehydrated, which speeds the hydration while eliminating lumps. It also eliminates the need for slurries and pre-mixes it and handles it with virtually no dust.
+
+[3:33] Secondly, perfected guar gum does not have the taste that is typically associated with groir, which assures it will not entaint the flavor of your recipes. Use perfected guar gum as a one-to-one replacement for traditional guar. Fans of cooking issues that order $25 or more before the next week's show will get a free package of perfected guar gum. Simply use the promo code CI as in cooking issues 57 when placing your online order at modernist pantry.com. Visit us visit modernist pantry.com today for all your modernist cooking needs.
+
+[4:00] Perfected guar gum, huh? Yes. So we use a kind of guar called uh T I C flavor-free NT, whatever it is, 4 billion, whatever from T I C gums, aka Tick Gums. And uh we've used this kind of guar for years. Uh I don't know whether this perfected guar is uh the same as the flavor-free guar, but I mean, tick, T I C is like they're like kind of like the leaders or at least the original kind of flavor-free guar kind of a situation.
+
+[4:24] Traditional guar gum. If you've ever tasted traditional guar gum. Guar gum, okay. So guar gum and locust bean gum are both derived from seeds, and they're kind of uh, you know, they're they're fairly old, uh, you know, i.e. been around a long, long, long time uh because basically they're seeds, they're ground seeds, uh, hydrocolloids.
+
+[4:41] They're thickeners, uh, not gelling agents. And uh locust bean gum, LBG for short, locust bean gum is always been kind of uh of the two, kind of the the older, more handsome, sexier, and like, you know, more successful brother to guar because it like has a lot of good good properties. One of which is it doesn't taste like crap. Traditional guar tastes it the it's beanie. It tastes almost like um oh like black-eyed pea flour or something like that.
+
+[5:11] Has that flavor that it's from like a ground up seed that you know is kind of uh hard to deal with them. People use guar a lot because guar is a lot cheaper than locust bean gum. The other thing that guar um does is uh that you don't have to uh heat it, you know, uh up over 70 Celsius like you do for locust bean gum to get it hydrated. So uh guar gum has advantages for uh monetarily for large producers, but it always has had kind of a bad taste. It's typically used guar.
+
+[5:38] You'll see guar in uh ice creams typically. Ice creams are stabilized commercially, usually with carrageenin, and they use caragina, which is a seaweed because it it uh it's very it has synergistic reactions with milk, so you only have to use a tiny amount of it to get the milk to gel properly. Uh yeah, and when it gels up, that stops crystals from forming, which is why they use it. They use carragenin to stop basically uh crystal formation, but then you have to add a second thickener to the system to stop what's called uh weigh-off, where the liquid actually separates out from the wheat gel that's formed by the carrageenin, and that's what the locust bean or the guar gum is for. And typically they use guar because it's a lot cheaper.
+
+[6:15] Um the flavor-free guar is awesome. Now, the stuff that they say is prehydrated, uh what that means when you prehydrate a gum, gums are typically difficult to hydrate because they swell in water and form lumps. So you don't want lumps to form. And so half of using hydrocolloids, which are new age thickeners properly, is figuring out how to uh hydrate them. So people like TIC gums and others do a thing called uh agglomeration where they take smaller uh particles that hydrate fairly easily, and instead of packing them into just like a fine powder, they uh pre agglomerate them into kind of these very coarse looking little, they look like miniature, they look like like it has like a pilly look, as though it's like kind of microscopic grape nuts.
+
+[6:55] You've seen these before, Nastasha, right? They have a weird kind of a texture to them. I typically I don't have problems hydrating because we use vita preps, but this could be something useful if you don't have uh uh like a higher speed, a higher speed mixer. I've never used prehydrated uh guar before. I don't really like prehydrated Xanthan, by the way, which some people do, which is another kind of miracle thickener.
+
+[7:13] Anywho, so uh what I use guar for, guar, is um if you make a an ice cream, you can go on look up super stretchy ice cream on uh cookingissues.com. And uh we make a super stretchy ice cream using uh Calco gel uh F, which is gel-an, uh, which is awesome because it forms a fluid gel and it's also flame proof. But if you add guar to it, it's a weird synergy that I don't you know I don't think I've never read about uh other than on our site. Uh it forms a stretchy ice cream similar to Selepton Derma, which is the Turkish orchid ice cream, but it has an added advantage. The Turkish ice cream doesn't have is that you can light it on fire.
+
+[7:47] Right? That's an advantage lighting it on fire. Lighting on fire, always an advantage. Anyway, so go on Modern's Pantry and get your guar. I love the word guar.
+
+[7:56] I wish the band guar would advertise for guar gum. They should. They should well they should change the name of the gum to spell it the way guar does. Is guar still around, by the way? Yeah, they are.
+
+[8:06] Yeah. Nastasha, you're not that kind of a person. You never went to those kind of concerts, right? No. You're not you're not into that kind of uh decapitation rock.
+
+[8:13] No. Yeah. Yeah. Anyway. Uh all right.
+
+[8:17] So John S writes in uh and he says, uh, great show. Listen every week. He's called in once before. Hi, John. Yes.
+
+[8:24] Uh my wife and I and three-year-old son are coming to New York from Wisconsin. My wife won a Pan American Bingham Prize for her novel Stiltsville. Congratulations, wife. Uh I looked I looked up that novel and uh it had like very, very good ratings on the Amazon. I don't really read novels.
+
+[8:40] Do you yeah, Nastasha reads novels? I don't. I mean, this is one of my bad traits is that I don't read fiction. I basically only I sit around constantly reading nonfiction, typically about food, occasionally about the Civil War or you know, the CIA or something like that. Uh but anyway, so they're staying in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn.
+
+[8:56] Uh but Stiltsville, by the way, weird. Still do you know what Stillsville is? No. It's a community in um in uh outside of Miami in Biscayne Bay. These like like dudes, for some reason, I don't know why, they built houses in the bay on stilts.
+
+[9:09] They're like literally in the ocean, like in mud flats on stilts. And right now there's only seven of these houses left because duh, they get wiped away by hurricanes because it's a freaking hurricane country down there. So there's seven left. They've been around, I think, since the 40s or something like that, 40s or 50s, and people are trying to save them anyway. Weird little and apparently the novel is about the uh early days of Stiltsville.
+
+[9:29] It's kind of a good word though, stiltsville. Anyway, um, so they'll be flying during the show, so they're actually in the air right now, or else you'd call it in. Uh John says, I'm a tech nerd and a foodie, although I hate the word foodie. I hate the word foodie. Don't you hate the word foodie, Nustach?
+
+[9:42] Or it doesn't bother does it not bother you? Is that one of those things that doesn't bother you? It doesn't bother me. See, it doesn't see so so basically it if you use any word substance, it will bother one of the two of us, but typically not both. Right.
+
+[9:53] So don't ever show Nastasha a leaf with a disease on it, for instance, because that like fully free or a foot with a disease on it. That's you know, that's you know, the thing is people can't help it. Someday I hope Nastasha, not because I want you to have like a horrible foot like skin problem, but just so that like it kicks you of the habit of worrying about it, like if you have some sort of a horrible foot problem, just for a day. No, you hope I have it. Yeah, just for a day.
+
+[10:14] That wouldn't that cure you of getting worried about it? Anyway. So for me, for her, it's horrible, uh like skin does like skin does all this kind of thing. She can't stand it. For me, it's the word foodie, and I'll tell you why.
+
+[10:25] It's because uh it's it smacks of food fadism. It makes it seem like it's a fad as opposed to basically being a new uh, you know, a way of of dealing with with with life and food. So in fact, the term originally in the 80s was was kind of like just like yuppie, people there was a book, you know, about foodies, and it was making fun of it and you know basically saying like here's a bunch of people who uh you know uh I guess it just makes it into a fad a joke people who don't you know who are have nothing better to do a feed kind of you know just a bad smacks of bad stuff right yeah anyway uh and so it was kind of taken on by people who are interested in food as kind of a badge of honor but I just think it trivializes the whole the word foodie I think trivi trivializes uh caring about food anyway that's just me anyway uh so uh I'm a tech uh nerd and uh I'll say food lover instead of foodie uh and wonder if you have any recommendations for sites to see in New York this week unfortunately we're financially constrained uh or else you go to per se or WD50 and all that and with a three year old in tow and by the way yes you it'd be difficult to go to I guess people can go to per se with little kids right it depends on your kid my kid no my two kids they would take that restaurant apart right anyway that would be it um yes we enjoyed uh Mario Batali's Eatly and by the way we love Mario Batali at this because he really was uh so good to us at the museum fundraiser last week or two weeks ago or you know eight years ago when was it seems like last last week a week and a half week and a half ago when we visited last as an example of the uh type of thing we're interested in the criteria we're looking for something uh uh food lover interesting that we can't get back home in the backwoods of Madison Wisconsin something that's not terribly expensive and is kid friendly ish like street food cooking stores restaurants and tourist attractions well listen I don't uh I don't uh go out so uh I'm kind of uh I'm kind of bad. I'm gonna pump my friends here. Uh Sambar, is that really expensive?
+
+[12:22] I don't know. You can go to Sambar at lunch and get all the duck stuff. That was good, right? Mm-hmm. Yeah, we had a really good meal there with the with the duck stuff.
+
+[12:29] Uh I you know, I would do that. And the good thing about Sambar is it's kind of loud enough such that the kids aren't gonna really be a problem. Uh, you know, because no one's gonna notice because it's loud. Um for food shopping. I mean, go to DiPalos on Grand Street.
+
+[12:43] It's like the greatest Italian. I love that store. Go there. Uh it's uh, you know, you might have to wait a long time. So go at a point when there's not um a lot of you know traffic, or you're gonna be waiting there a long time with your kid.
+
+[12:55] My kids have taken that store apart, but they're very friendly. Try to get someone in the family uh to help you out because they they know a lot, or else Renee, uh, who's really cool over there. Like so, Louis, Sal, Marie, Connie, or Renee. Anyway, go to Di Palo's, it's a treasure here. Uh what about uh what is another is Chesare's place uh kid friendly?
+
+[13:13] No. No? No? Salamaria Rossi, not friendly. I mean Otto's very kid friendly.
+
+[13:19] Kids love it. Um I don't have no idea. I don't have any. I mean, if tourist traction is walk across the Brooklyn Bridge, that's awesome. Yeah.
+
+[13:27] Right? What about food? Anything uh we'll think about it. And we'll after the after the break, we'll give you we'll give you some more some more stuff to do. Okay.
+
+[13:35] Here. Oh yeah, hell, you're gonna be in Brooklyn. Come to Roberta's Yeah, come out to Roberta's. I I see a three-year-old in front of me right now. I didn't want to say anything.
+
+[13:45] Oh, yeah. No, but seriously, we just got reviewed uh really well over here. There's some kids like literally looking at a table filled with kids of all ages. I see like a I see like a zero year old, like a three year old, and a five year old with only two adults. I'm pretty sure the next project at Roberta's is gonna be like a McDonald's playground in the back.
+
+[14:02] That would be sick. I'm kidding, but kind of. There's a lot of kids here. Kind of kidding. Listen, here's my here's my suggestions with uh Robertus.
+
+[14:10] Come early. If you're gonna come dinner time, lunchtime is not a problem. If you're gonna come for dinner, Jack, am I right or wrong here? Come early, otherwise, you're gonna be waiting a long time. Yes.
+
+[14:17] And it's gonna be a lot louder. So uh what time do they have to get here, Jack? Um, I'd say seven is 6 30, 7 o'clock. 6 30 or 7? That's a good time if you have a three-year-old anyway.
+
+[14:25] And by the way, if you don't come to Roberta's, don't call in again. Just kidding, but I'm not. Yeah, Nastasha pulling out calling me a D-bag on the air. Nice, nice. Okay.
+
+[14:36] Two. I've been making a lot of bread using the long rest method. Initially a recipe from the New York Times, improved by Cooks Illustrated. It's definitely got the best texture with white flour, but I like to make it with half wheat flour. I'm assuming whole wheat flour.
+
+[14:48] Uh when I do this, the bread is less chewy, more cake like, and less toothy. The texture is just not as nice. Would adding wheat gluten as an ingredient help? How much? Any other suggestions?
+
+[14:58] Okay, so I assuming what we're talking about here is the recipe that's actually Jim Leahy's uh from Sullivan Street Bakery, his recipe, which is kind of the no need uh recipe that became popular, I guess. Mark Bittman wrote about it when, in like 2006 or 2007 or something like that. So Mark Bittman actually gets credited with this recipe because when he wrote about it in the minimalist on the New York Times, it spread like wildfire across the internet. It was insane, crazy. Uh just like uh your buddy Leahy is.
+
+[15:28] Nastashi worked for him for a little while, right? A week. A week, yeah, a week before she came to work for a different kind of a lunatic that is me. Anyway, so uh so anyway, so the basically the Bittman writes about this. It goes it goes completely viral, nutbag lunatics, it's everywhere.
+
+[15:43] By the way, Leahy's bread here. If you've never been to New York, Sullivan Street bread and its various imitators and spawn are fantastic. Fantastic bread. Really great bread. So, anywho, so he writes a uh something, it goes nuts.
+
+[15:57] In 2008, Cooks Illustrated, so that's why it gets credited to the New York Times, right? Uh, even though he just came out with his book fairly recently, like a year ago, right? And uh his the book, his his basically uh book uh what's editor is the same person who's gonna be editing the I'm gonna write a book. He's gonna be writing that book, and so his book called like uh it's called My Bread or something like that, or Bread My Way or My Bread Your Way, Your Bread My Way. What is it?
+
+[16:23] Anyway, so it's his book. But the uh Maria Gorna Shelley, who I'm working with, is a genius, complete genius, she writes on the cover of this thing, no work, no work, bread. No work, no need, no work. That book sold like like uh wildfire for a bread book. It's a nice book.
+
+[16:41] Anyway, so sells it a jillion copies. This is extremely popular technique. Cook's Illustrated in 2008 comes out with a uh book, uh sorry, comes out with an article on it where they modify it uh slightly, and that was written by no relation to Nastasha Lopez, Kenji Alt Lopez, who used to be one of the main testers at uh and recipe writers at Cooks Illustrated before he moved on to uh to internet stardom. So what the hell's going on here? So the basic thing with a no-need bread leahy style is old school Leahy style is use a very small amount of yeast and a very, very high hydration, right?
+
+[17:17] So you're using a lot of water uh and you know per flour. Like he's using his recipes are insane, like unhandleable, insane kind of hydration loaves. Why? Because he's looking for these really big kind of um bubbles. Now, these loaves won't really hold their shape in an oven if they're baked traditionally, but he doesn't bake it traditionally.
+
+[17:34] Because here's what he does. He adds a very small amount of yeast and lets it rise for a very very with enough salt to make it taste good, because that's a lot of recipes, people don't add enough salt. Uh, and then lets it rise for a very, very long time, like uh 12, 14 hours or more. Uh after which they he you know takes it out, covers it in flour, and lets it uh you know, just moves it around a little bit in a in uh uh a bunch of flour to add some sort of structure to the dough, otherwise there'll be no structure, and then um lets it rise again in a heavily floured cloth and then throws it into a preheated uh Dutch oven. And that does two things.
+
+[18:09] It holds the shape of the bread and it traps in the steam, and so it gives you a really nice crust. Now, I have not baked this way, by the way, so this is all just based on like my knowledge of talking to everyone in the universe who does it this way. This is not the way I do it. Anyway, um, everyone likes it. Uh McGee wrote uh an article in the New York Times on this technique uh where he says yes, it makes really good bread.
+
+[18:28] McGee's knock on the whole thing isn't that the bread's not good, is that the bread's all very similar. It's very similar, kind of open, coarse uh, you know, textured, like large bubble crumb, which is what people are shooting for. People like that look, as opposed to the heavily kneaded uh, you know, less risen breads that had typically have a denser crumb. Anyway, so the technique is predicated one on his high hydration, which is going to make very big open bubbles, two on the cooking technique, which is going to generate a nice crumb and have uh, you know, produce a lot of steam, and three on the long rise time. And what the long rise time is doing is two things.
+
+[19:02] One, people say it minimizes the taste of the actual yeast that you're adding, right? And two, it'll uh when it the yeast is acting over a longer period of time, it's supposed to make more complex flavors, including acids like acetic acid, and all sorts of different wonderful flavors, and and also modifying the uh texture of the dough somewhat by the long by the long resting. In addition, you don't need to knead if you're gonna let it rise for a long time, because kneading is essentially the process of hydrating the gluten uh and providing structure for the gluten. The gluten will form its own structure, the theory goes, if you just let it rise for a long time uh and let it develop for a long time. So the kneading becomes uh inconsequential.
+
+[19:39] And in fact, you can't knead dough with as high hydration as the stuff that Tim Leahy uh uh is using. Uh and so you have therefore you have no need, no work bread. It just takes a long time. So now people, the cook's illustrated Kenji Yault was like, I don't want to wait this long for my no-need bread. So what does he do?
+
+[19:54] Ken Kenji Yalt ups the yeast content, ups the hydration, uh ups the uh sorry, lowers the hydration somewhat to make a dough easier to handle, needs it for like 15 seconds. My help, my guess is to help the structure development early on because he's not gonna rise as long, right? So he needs to move it around a little more, help the hydration a little more. And two, he cheats a little bit by adding beer and uh vinegar. And the beer and the vinegar uh are are there to fake the flavor of a long uh fermentation.
+
+[20:25] So it's basically let's fake the flavor of the long fermentation uh and try to get something done uh quicker. And so that's the Cook's Illustrated, you know, short need, like 15, 20 seconds or you know, minute knead uh bread uh that is also it's not but it's not nearly as high hydration. So this this is what we're talking about. That was a long explanation for what the hell we're talking about. But what if you didn't know what we're talking about?
+
+[20:48] Then you wouldn't know what we're talking about. So then he's saying uh, you know, the question here is if you're making it with wheat flour, it doesn't work as well. What's the problem? First of all, wheat flour is gonna require a higher hydration. So if you're doing the Cook's Illustrator recipe, which is a lower hydration bread, you're going to need to add more hydration to get your wheat flour to act the same way.
+
+[21:04] Secondly, wheat flour probably needs to develop longer. It's first of all, it's just never gonna whole wheat flour is just never gonna get the same texture, the kind of whole wheat flour you're using. If you want a uh really nice texture with a whole wheat flour because it's I don't know, the way it's ground, use like chapati flour. Like chapati flour is amazing stuff. Keep it in the freezer because it always has bug problems.
+
+[21:22] But like uh Lox Me brand, chapati flour, uh, I use that for pancakes and whatnot. So if you're having the problem that the bran is too coarse and it's actually uh def affecting the texture of your of your um bread, move to a different kind of uh whole wheat flour and see whether that helps you out. I've never added, I mean, I have added wheat gluten to whole wheat breads, but it's you know like decades ago, and it's I don't remember uh exactly what the things I used to dope it in uh all the time, adding wheat gluten. I mean, you add like uh you know a percent or two of uh vital wheat gluten, it might help out. But I would up the hydration a little bit and I go back to doing a longer rise, um, is what uh is what I would do.
+
+[21:59] In fact, McGee in his article says uh some wet doughs can still benefit from kneading, and one is whole wheat dough. Um, because uh whole he's this is McGee quoting whole grains tend to absorb more water and produce weaker gluten networks, and I found that kneading as the recipe directs gives a lighter, loftier loaf. Um, all right. So uh that's that. Although I will say that I do, although I haven't baked bread a lot in a long time, I do do a lot of pizza.
+
+[22:25] And my uh my pizza for a lot I always rise my pizza overnight, always. Like I used to do a technique, uh, I've moved to a no a less work technique now. I used to make uh what's you know, like what do they call it, a vega, whatever. I do 100% water and uh I mean 100% water and flour, equal ratios. Add the yeast, let it rise two times, uh let it rise up, and then uh beat and then add the extra flour and then let retard that.
+
+[22:48] It's called retarding. In the in the fridge, basically until the next day, and the pizza's always been great. But now I've I was talking to Michael uh sorry, Matthew uh Palombino, who has Motorina pizza also here in Brooklyn, which apparently is like some great pizza. I haven't had it. In fact, I haven't had it, but I can guarantee his pizza is good because the guys had the got the right attitude about cooking.
+
+[23:05] Uh you know, I spent some time with him and he's uh I mean to go there and have this pizza. Check out Motorino. But uh, you know, Charlie Trotter once said uh that you could review a restaurant just by looking at its floor because he's a neat freak. Isn't that crazy? You can't review a restaurant by looking at its floor.
+
+[23:21] But I can kind of review a chef by talking with him and seeing what their attitude and uh Matthew Palambino, even though he's Belgian and work for Laurent Turrandell, he has the right kind of like uh demented mental attitude to kind of get it right. Like he's qu quality obsessed. In fact, in fact, he has kind of a big thing we'd already talked about this in the show. He has a big brother kind of a thing with the camera where he can look at anyone's pizza as it goes out, even if he's in like uh he's in an I was in an airport in JFK with him and we're flying, and he looks at his iPhone and looks up the pizza that was being produced at the restaurant at that moment, calls up and just starts yelling at the person uh who's making the pizza. Wow.
+
+[24:01] Yeah, so it's like I love that. That's hardcore. And that guy, that guy's knows what's up, so we gotta go we gotta go check that guy out. And I'll give you one more thing on uh pizza, because you know my oven gets up to 850 degrees because I've modified it into a pizza oven, so it makes a really good pizza. Oh, and when you're gonna make pizza dough, like if you want a higher hydration, you're gonna get that softer, more Neapolitan feel.
+
+[24:20] Where if if you go for a lower hydration, you're gonna get more of that kind of American feel. And I don't really think there's one's better than the other. I mean, I don't look, I like a Neapolitan style pizza, but I don't think it's the be all and end all. I think whatever you want to eat at the time is the best one, right? And one last thing on pizza before we go to our first break.
+
+[24:35] I'm gonna give you a secret. When I was building my uh current apartment, before I had the oven in there, uh, we used to order pizza a lot. We'd order it from a place here in New York City called Lombardi's, which is a well-known coal-fired pizza product. Problem is, is the crust from Lombardi's is always soggy, and it's not a high hydration, so it shouldn't be kind of floppy soggy, but it is when it comes from the thing, even though it's a good tasting pizza. So here's the secret for you.
+
+[24:55] Uh take a blowtorch, turn your pizza upside down, right? On a pl on a platter, and blowtorch the crust until it gets uh until it gets crunchy again. Now, blow torches I don't typically like because blowtorches, um they if there's any fat, they pick up the kind of torch taste, but there's very little fat on the bottom of a pizza. So uh it tends not to pick up uh torch taste out of it. So just torch the bottom of the pizza with a blowtorch until it crunches up again.
+
+[25:23] Flip it, uh melt the cheese. You can do it with a torch, but you know, you know, better if you don't because the cheese is fatty. But anyway, and so that's my reheating technique to get delicious crunchy pizza. All right, uh, let's go to our first commercial break and we'll come back. Cooking issues.
+
+[25:51] I seen your picture. Your name and lots of love is your big thank you. So won't you smile for the count? I know that gonna love it. I keep it with your pizza.
+
+[26:24] Gun up and blueprint. And when you smile on camera. I know I love you better. Hey, we'll come back to the two. Hey, we'll come back to the two.
+
+[26:53] You see it all. It's your favorite foreign movie. And welcome back to Cooking Issues. Calling all of your questions to 718 497 2128. That's 718 497-2128.
+
+[27:07] So you gotta get you gotta be a little more mellow with that music in the back, right? If it was up to us, we'd play Steely Dan all the time, every time. Really? Oh yeah. Is that your that's your that's your uh That's our jam.
+
+[27:17] That's your house jam? Oh yeah. Nice house jam. Uh okay. So uh I guess we'll start the second segment with a shout out from Adam, who we uh met in person at the Star Chefs International Chefs Congress, not to be confused with the ICC, the International Culinary Center, what a kind of a cluster, you know what that is, that they're both named the same thing.
+
+[27:35] Anywho, he says, what? It's not good. Okay. He says, hey Dave and Nastasha. I hope you all know how much I and the rest of the silent listeners appreciate what you're doing.
+
+[27:43] Cheers, Adam. Well, thank you. Appreciate that. Although don't be silent, call in your questions to 718. Oh my god, I forgot already.
+
+[27:51] 7184972128. That's 718497-2128. Okay. Uh now, got a question in uh saying. Doot doo doo, gotta get to it.
+
+[28:02] Uh you speak often about how you use your immersion circulator a lot at home. I built one and it works. Great. Kudos for building one. Uh, but I found that a lot of good quick family meals, I have not found a lot of good quick family meals which would use it.
+
+[28:14] Can you give us some examples of where you find it useful at home? I've done chicken breast, which was decent if bland, and the fish tilapia I did was just plain bland and boring. Well, you're lucky if tilapia all it is is bland and boring. I mean, tilapia is is the fish where uh you know the best thing you can say about it is that it has no flavor, right? If it like any flavor that it has is gonna be bad.
+
+[28:35] You know what I mean? So uh, you know, I would stay away from tilapia if you can. I mean, I guess it's farmed and sustainable nonsense. Anyway, uh any specifics would be nice. Uh what to add to the bag for flavorings, time uh and temperature estimates, etc.
+
+[28:46] Perhaps a recommendation for prep and freeze in the bag applications for quick weekend night meals. Okay. Um now it is true that uh the circulator doesn't really excel at speed. That's not really what it's what it's best for. Um, you know, I use it in the house uh most often for just unattended cooking.
+
+[29:10] I do the thing I do most often in the house is steaks, right? So when I'm cooking for my family, I use a circulator for steaks all the time. And that's you know, I think I've said it like a million times here before, but the recipe is stupidly simple. I sear it. Uh I with uh I put salt and pepper on it because I'm gonna serve it, you know, pretty soon after I cook it, like within a couple of hours.
+
+[29:32] So uh if you you don't salt it if you're not gonna cook it right away. Uh I put it, I melt butter and garlic, uh chopped garlic and melt it in butter in a in the nuke, pour it into the Ziploc bag, put in the steak, seal it uh underwater, which there's uh instructions for on cookingissues.com, and uh I throw it in the circulator and then let it ride for anywhere from 45 minutes to an hour and a half, and then whenever I finally get the kids rounded up, uh I flash it off in a super hot uh pan uh and send it out, and it's delicious and not bland because it's been seared twice. Oh yes, and I use the butter with the garlic in it to make garlic bread. So my this is my kids' favorite meal that I that I that I make for them. Um other things, like for instance, if I'm gonna do a party, uh if I'm gonna do a party, uh then I'll do hamburgers in the circulator, right?
+
+[30:19] Like kind of like I did for the eater piece, uh, but usually smaller. Uh because it allows me to do all my work beforehand and then f get the burgers out perfectly uh during the the party. But if I cook burgers for home, I typically don't do it in a circulator because it's not it's like the workflow is is not the same. I just make a different kind of burger. So when I make a burgers at home, I'll make a thinner burger, which can be cooked more traditionally instead of the kind of burgers I make in a circulator.
+
+[30:46] You know, like eggs. If I'm gonna poach eggs, if I'm gonna do 10 people and they're coming over, you know, and I'm gonna cook a bunch of eggs at 20, hell, do it in a circulator. But you know, if I have to cook like two or three eggs and I gotta do it right now, I don't use a circulator. So it's not typically something I do for hyper quick kind of meals. Uh if you're gonna have the thing set up all the time, like on a counter in a water bath, you know, then you can kind of use it to better uh effect.
+
+[31:11] And it is really good for reheating things that are uh in the uh or re-thermalizing things rather that uh are in the freezer so you can have something in a bag and you can re-thermalize it in a circulator fairly effectively, but again, it's not the quickest thing in the world. So it's really good for pre-prep stuff. Um I'll try to think more about that. Anyway, we have a caller, caller, you are on the air. Awesome.
+
+[31:32] Hey, I am one hoping you can help me. I am wondering how to cook a goat head. Um it's kind of scary looking, and I don't know, can I eat the brains? Can I what do I do with it? Alright, goat head.
+
+[31:44] Very good. So I used to eat uh as a child lamb's head quite a bit. Uh I haven't done a lot with goat's head, but they're very similar. I mean, I doubt you could even tell them apart once they've you know been killed and skin and whatnot. Um you look, the brain is delicious.
+
+[32:00] I'm not gonna lie. The brain's delicious. I don't tend to eat um brains anymore since um since uh mad cow came out and like all the you know, all the new spongiform encephalopathies have come out, because I just don't know when the next one is gonna happen. You know, so I tend not to eat brain tissue anymore, even though I find it delicious. I don't know whether I'm just being overly reactive, but the problem is is that you don't know for 10 years that there's been a problem, and you know what I'm saying?
+
+[32:26] So I tend to stay away from brains, although there to be clear, there have been no cases I know of of anyone ever human ever getting a disease from eating a go a goat or a lamb's brain, as far as I as far as I know, never. I mean, cowbrain, yes. No one has even really traced uh like elk like elk, you know, they have a thing called chronic wasting disease out in Wyoming and so Montana. So if you those elk uh they can pass this between each other and then they get basically a similar variant to a mad cow, which is basically a variant of Jakob Schreutschveld of brain eating disease. And so uh anyway, that apparently hasn't jumped human either.
+
+[33:03] So you know, I just tend scared. I I well I'm not telling you to be scared, I'm just telling you that like, you know, it the problem is is that after all that I look at the brain, it's not as appetizing as it used to be. You know what I mean? Okay. Look, my favorite part of the head is like the tongue and the nasal passages.
+
+[33:18] They're delicious. Uh now you can a couple ways you could do the head. Like one of the classic ways is to kind of like take a flavorful broth or stock and uh kind of uh poach it and simmer it in that until the meat falls off and then rip it up and make like uh you can make like a testa out of it or something like that, the same way that you would for uh the same way you would for a pig's head, right? Um but a good old-fashioned way is just roast it, you know, split it in half and roast it and then eat all uh all of the parts out. Yeah, people like here's another thing, right?
+
+[33:47] People like they're oh the eyes, the eyes really aren't that delicious. I just don't think they're delicious. I mean, I have no problem eating them. I just don't think that they taste that great. You know what I mean?
+
+[33:54] I just what about you, Nastasha? I haven't. You haven't tried it? I thought we had this discussion. Maybe someone else had the discussion with.
+
+[34:00] But it's c uh, so let me see. What the way we used to do, we used to just ro mean I was a kid, before I was tech, you know, we would just roast the sucker in the oven, and I think they served it with a tomato sauce. I'm not sure. They call it caputzel, but it was lamb's head. Uh and uh delicious.
+
+[34:13] Like all the meat and the nasal anything basically, or the most effective way, and if you don't want look, it depends on whether you want to freak out your guests. Like if your guests are like old school Italians from the north end of uh of Boston, then they won't be freaked out because just tell them it's a lamb's head instead of a goat head. Uh but you know, if if you're if the people you're gonna be eating with are gonna be freaked out, I would pick the meat off and then and then uh make it into something. But all that stuff's delicious. The tongue, the you know, the texture is different.
+
+[34:39] The great thing about meat in the head is that you have all these very various textures. You have the textures that come out of the cheeks, you have the textures in the nasal passages, you have the textures in the in the tongue, uh again if eyes if you if you like it, and brain if you're willing to eat it, uh is is all good. Awesome. Yeah. I mean, do you if you have a circulator, I'm sure you could circulate, I'm sure it'd be delicious.
+
+[34:58] I've never actually done it. I've only ever done traditional cooking techniques on it. Okay. Awesome. Tell you right in, tell us how it worked.
+
+[35:04] I love I love an old school. I haven't cooked a lamb's head in in many, many years. Actually, that's not true. I cooked one in Italy two years ago uh or th or three years ago, but I forget how we cooked it. I might not have cooked it, I might have just butchered it.
+
+[35:14] They taught me how to, when I was in Italy last, they taught me how to split a lamb's head without a saw just using a knife. It's too long to go into now, but the secret is basically you is gross, but you use the eye sockets as handles to hold it so it doesn't slip around as you're as you're smashing the knife through it and splitting it in half. I think my my hat's already cut in half. Very good. Very good, very good.
+
+[35:36] So I won't go into it, but maybe I'll try and remember. I'll try to go get the video of how you do it. Anyway, thanks for calling in. Thank you. Um Michael writes in with uh a couple of questions.
+
+[35:49] Uh he enjoys our show, Nastasha. Thanks us for doing it. Uh here's a pretty basic question I was hoping you could answer. I've always heard that you should heat your pan before adding oil. And similarly, I've always heard that you should heat uh your oil in the pan before adding food.
+
+[36:02] Are there any good reasons for this? I've often broken both of these rules and have not noticed any negative effects. Okay. So uh what's going on here is pretty simple. Uh most of the time when you want to get your pan hot for searing or something like that, the the the idea of it is is to get a lot of energy stored in the pan such that when you put your food on it, right?
+
+[36:29] It can put a big wallop into it uh and and give it a nice good sear. Now, uh most of those searing things, uh, you know, in other words, in order to store enough heat into in the uh in the pan to get it to work properly, uh you would have to heat it to a point where the oil would completely degrade uh and start smoking and have a lot of problems. So to get around that, you heat the pan up to a ridiculous uh amount, and then uh you add the um meat, and the meat you know drops the temperature of the oil and the pan down to a thing, but you have that wallop of heat. That's why they tell you to do it. So if you're not looking to get a very quick, fast crust, then there's really not uh necessarily uh a reason to do it.
+
+[37:13] Similarly, with the oil, if you're don't want to cook for a long time, you want everything to be smoking hot, you do everything uh at very hot temperature. So when I'm doing low temperature cooking, I'll tend if I'm using a cast iron pan, I'll heat the cast iron pan uh for a long time because it stores a lot of heat, even though it doesn't deliver it necessarily as quickly, and I'll preheat the oil in a side pan up to just below its kind of smoking temperature. Then I'll dump the oil into the cast iron pan, and it immediately wants to light on fire. So I throw the steak into it and sear it very quickly, and that's because I want to get a crust very, very quickly on it. Uh so if that's not what you're looking for, there's no real reason to do it.
+
+[37:48] You know what I mean? That makes sense, Sasha or no? Okay. Uh also I'm curious to hear your thoughts on the Komodo or Mushi Komodo uh or Kamado, I guess, style of grill. Uh, I'm considering purchasing one since you can do everything from high heat grilling to controlled low temperature cooking, use it as an oven, a kind of tandoor, etc.
+
+[38:06] Are they worth the money in your opinion? Okay, so what we're talking about is uh these ceramic egg-shaped grills. Uh and was that is that sneeze? Sorry. Bless you.
+
+[38:16] Uh he's a ceramic usual. Shut up. I I never say that. This is an honest to God sneeze. It's an honest to God sneeze.
+
+[38:26] Look, it's a it's a long-standing joke with me that the first time you sneeze, I say bless you. The second time, maybe bless you. The third time, shut up, shut up with the sneezing. You know, go blow your nose or something, which is which is a mean thing to say. And I don't I I always say it as a joke because I go into sneezing fits.
+
+[38:40] Okay, you ever go into a sneezing fit? Yes. Where you sneeze constantly and then like you eat like someone's trying to talk to you, and you're like you're trying to hold anyway, whatever. Anyway, uh so I you know she makes me have to be such a meanie. It's really not the case.
+
+[38:53] Anyway, so ceramic uh grills, they're kind of egg-shaped, uh, and uh and basically you load them with coal in the bottom, and they have damper in the bottom so you can open them up and they light fairly quickly because they're chimney shaped, so you get good air draw through them, and people like them. So big big uh what's it called? Big green egg is one of them. Uh Primo grill is another one of them. The Kamado or Komodo, whatever they are, uh based on a Japanese style shape is one of them.
+
+[39:19] Uh and I've never actually used one. They are not cheap, they're like six, seven hundred bucks. But uh their main thing, like a tandoor, which actually I do have some experience with, because like I said, we built one for the shoot we did uh with uh Anthony Bourdain, and I actually loved cooking in it because it takes a relatively small amount of fuel, and these have the same benefit. It takes a relatively small amount of fuel and can make a very, very high heat and can make a fairly low heat. The other great thing about the ceramics is it tends to uh stabilize over time.
+
+[39:45] So if you're gonna do like a long cook, it it stores heat you know fairly well and radiates it back, giving like a nice even heat, and you have to choose. Now the thing is it doesn't move very quickly in either direction. It took me a while to get it stabilized, but uh the coals are gonna light fairly quickly because you have this rush of air coming in and then going up like a chimney. Uh you can use a fairly small amount because it's all concentrated, it doesn't like spread out over a huge area like a kind of an unenclosed grill is. It keeps most of the heat internalized into the oven and then shoots it out of the top, which is why when you're learning to put it in a tandoor, you can burn the hell out of your hands.
+
+[40:16] These have, unlike a tandoor, have a grill in the top so that you can grill like a normal human being, although I assume you could take it out and use it like a tandoor if you wanted to. Anyway, uh so the so I, you know, I have people seem to love them. People who use them, uh, they seem to love them. I've I have never used them. I'd like to have one uh and I would probably use it half as a tandoor and half as uh something something else.
+
+[40:39] Um I wish I could say I'd had a lot of experience. Anyway, um do you think I answered that enough there, Nastasha? I mean, I have a lot of information on it, but just not enough of my own personal personal uh experience. But like I say, people seem to love them. I would love to have one anyway.
+
+[40:54] I mean I live in New York, so I can't really light the last time I lit a charcoal uh uh fire in my house, uh, it almost got me divorced. So I probably won't be experimenting with that anytime soon. Okay, so uh on the way out again, as I said, I came back from uh Colombia. Haven't been uh you know, I'd never been to South America before, and now I'm like I go there every freaking week, it seems like. Feels like it anyway.
+
+[41:15] So I got back from uh Columbia, and this time I got to do what I wanted to do before but didn't, which is make a rapid infusion, an ISI rapid infusion of fresh coca leaves, which are legal down there uh when they're used as tea. Obviously, it's illegal to have coca paste, which they make into cocaine, and obviously cocaine is illegal, but coca leaves are. Uh and so I did a rapid infusion of pisco and coca. And I'm here to tell you, like, it's a weird thing. Maybe someday we'll get into the the politics of it, but it's so weird that uh so much misery is caused by this leaf that they grow down there.
+
+[41:47] But the rapid infusion I made was delicious. Uh I made that, people went crazy, and then I went outside and bought myself a plate of Cappy Bearer meat. So it's capibra and coca. Maybe someday I'll blog about it if I ever get around to writing again. Cooking issues.
+
+[42:12] Fishers fish vodka. Oh, you daddy rat. Got me on this corner. And I don't know where I'm at. Supposed to meet my baby.
+
+[42:37] Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening.
+
+[43:05] Today we'd like to send a special thank you to the following restaurants for supporting No Goat Left Behind. Sambar and Mapesh. Show your support at these restaurants by ordering one of the menu items featuring goat. Goat is the most eaten protein in the entire world, yet in the U.S. we import most of our goat.
+
+[43:22] Our dairy farms are forced to kill some male goats at birth because there's no market for them. Help make a change. Support no goat left behind. The following message has been brought to you by Taste Brooklyn. Our city's finest chefs partner with farmers and local vineyards next to the green market for an extraordinary outdoor culinary festival.
+
+[43:45] Try exquisite delicacies using locally grown seasonal delights on the plaza outside Brooklyn's borough hall. Top chefs and artisans will offer sumptuous fare paired with premium wines, all to empower our neediest children to get healthy. The mighty FDNY and DSNY harbor their own culinary masters in uniform. They will cook off against the pros. Sample delicious cuisine without stressing over a reservation while supporting a worthy cause.
+
+[44:11] Taste Brooklyn's Field to Fork Outdoor Culinary Festival Saturday, October 15th, 2011, from 1130 a.m. to 3 p.m. Learn more and buy tickets at Tastesofbrooklyn.blogspot.com. That's T-A-S-T-E-S O F Brooklyn.blogspot.com
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+[0:02] Broadcasting live from Roberta's in Bushwick, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. Hello, hello, and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Marland, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you live on the Heritage Radio Network, every Tuesday from 12 to 1245, broadcasting live from the backyard of Roberta's Pizzeria inside of a cut-up old container can. Joined uh as usual in the studio today with Nastasha, the Hammer Lopez.
+
+[0:41] How you doing? Fine. Check this out, people. Call in all of your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128.
+
+[0:51] The first episode of Cooking Issues where I've memorized the telephone number. How do you like that? That's good. Nice. Uh I was thinking about it on my uh crazy bike right over here.
+
+[1:03] I managed, even though I'm a little late, you know, I managed to bike here from my house in 15 minutes flat. Which is why when I show up, sometimes you hear me at the beginning of the show and I'm coughing up a lung. It's because I'm an out-of-shape 40-year-old guy biking from Manhattan to Brooklyn in 15 minutes, right? No comment from the Nastasha. Today's show, episode 58, by the way, is brought to you again by the Modernist Pantry.
+
+[1:27] Today's show is sponsored by Modernist Pantry, supplying innovative ingredients for the modern cook. Do uh do you love to experiment with new cooking techniques and ingredients, but hate to overspend for pounds of supplies when only a few grams are needed per application? Modernist Pantry has the solution. They offer a wide range of modern ingredients and packages that make sense for the home cooker enthusiast. And most only cost around five bucks, saving you time, money, and storage space.
+
+[1:51] Whether you're looking for hydrocolloids, pH buffers, or even meat glue. You'll find it at Modernist Pantry. And if you need something that they don't carry, just ask. Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you. And it's true.
+
+[2:02] They actually they source the pectanex like on one week's notice for us. It's true. Right? Anyway, uh, where was I? Um, because I'm reading this, folks.
+
+[2:08] I don't this doesn't come out of the top of my head. Uh Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you with inexpensive shipping to any country in the world. Hear that, Colombia and Brazil. With inexpensive shipping to any country in the world, Modernist Pantry is your one-stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients. Modernist Pantry carries gelatin sheets in both silver and gold strength.
+
+[2:26] Many professional chefs prefer sheet or leaf gelatin over the powdered variety for its clarity, clean taste, and ease of use. Although I like powdered for when I'm uh when I'm doing things like uh uh clarification because it's easier to measure out in smaller quantities. You know what I mean? Because powder, it's a powder. The leaf you have to cut up the leaf and anything.
+
+[2:42] Although I, you know, when I'm using whole leaves for like standard operations, I usually use the leaf gelatin because I prefer it, but for ease of use in hydro recipes, I often use powdered. And Knox brand, by the way, gelatin is fairly good quality. It's like equivalent, I think, to uh gold or even higher. Anyway, uh whatever. If your recipe calls for gelatin, give sheet gelatin a try.
+
+[3:01] Fans of cooking issues at place an order of $25 or more before next week's show. We'll get a free package of 160 Bloom Sheet Gelatin. Simply use the promo code CI58. That's cooking issues 58 when placing your order online at modernistpantry.com. Visit us, visit modernist pantry.com today for all of your modernist cooking needs.
+
+[3:20] How's that? Good. Good. Okay. So uh remember though, call in your questions because we would appreciate calling questions.
+
+[3:26] We enjoy them. Two seven one eight four nine seven two one two eight. That's 718497-2128. All right. Now, uh, anything interesting happened this week, Nastasha?
+
+[3:35] Did we do anything? I felt like we did a lot. Into the forum. Oh, yeah. This weekend we went to uh Cesare Casella, one of our uh good friends' favorite uh favorite Italian and any any kind of chef, very good host, uh invited us up to a farm that he has uh uh what do we call it, like a partnership with?
+
+[3:54] So the farm uh specializes, it's part of this uh the Center for Discovery and the Discovery School, which is uh this great place in Sullivan County that um it's basically a residence school slash uh place, home really, for uh people who are either severely autistic or multiply disabled and and basically need a constant amount of support. And one of the initiatives they have uh from a therapeutic standpoint is a farm where they Cesare grows his Keonina cattle there, which are which are fantastic, but they also have sheep, goats, chickens, uh, pigs, uh they're starting a dairy, and they grow a lot of their own vegetables. And so the idea being that uh, and and Cesare got involved as a place for his cows, but also he's uh helping them uh ensure that the food that everyone there eats is of very, very high quality. The idea being that um the better the quality of food you eat, the better your life is. We certainly agree with that, right, Nastasha?
+
+[4:48] Yeah. So uh every year he has a fundraiser with a bunch of chefs. Mark Ladner from Del Posto, uh, you know, Kevin Garcia, who else was there? Our own Marco from Robert's was there. Marco, Jesus Christ, Carlo.
+
+[4:58] I call him that because someone there called him Marco, and it sounded oh Jesus Christ, Carlo. Uh Nastasha's giving me the squinky eye. All right, all right, come on. Anyway, uh who else? Who else was there?
+
+[5:10] Uh John Frazier. Oh, yeah, John Frazier was there. Uh I feel like I'm missing a whole slew of people. I am. Anyway, it doesn't matter.
+
+[5:16] Anyway, it was a great event. Uh raised uh a lot of money for uh a good cause. I made a cocktail. It was a caraway mint julep, which I think we've mentioned on this uh on the air before the idea that Spearmint and Caraway uh they was they're brothers. The chemical that makes them that makes them taste unique.
+
+[5:34] The two chemicals are mere images of each other. They're Isomers. Anyway, uh carvone is the chemical. So we call the drink uh Tony Carvone. And we do it in a bunch of different varieties.
+
+[5:43] This was a julep carvone. We've done uh other kinds of carvones. Uh uh, we we I like them. You like them? Yeah.
+
+[5:50] A lot of people are like caraway, me. You know, listen. If I if you come to an event that I'm uh working, or anyone's working, if someone's making a cocktail, like, first of all, nine times out of ten, the people who are running the event don't give water to the cocktail guy. So don't walk up to the cocktail guy and ask the cocktail guy for water because odds are they don't have it, right, Nastasha? Yes.
+
+[6:13] They don't have it, they just don't have it. Uh go to the the wine station usually has it, right? Or there's usually a water station or something, but usually the cocktail guy, they barely gave that guy ice. They didn't even give him bar towels. He's wiping his hands off on his pants, right?
+
+[6:27] Pretty much. Yeah. Anyway. Uh another thing, don't just ask for a pour of the straight liquor unless you order the cocktail too. If you say, hey, uh, can I have a pour of the straight liquor?
+
+[6:37] They really they don't like you anymore. They don't, right? That's true. Yeah. So just get the cocktail.
+
+[6:42] Look, it's a sunk cost, right? It's not like they're gonna charge you extra for the cocktail at the event. Just get the dang cocktail, and if you don't like it, put it down somewhere, and then say, This is what you say. I enjoyed the cocktail. Can I just have a shot of the straight liquor?
+
+[6:57] And then they won't dislike you, right? Yeah, yeah. Anyway, so and it's like anything. When you choose a cocktail like caraway that is a polarizing thing, which I should never do. I should only choose kind of slam dunk ingredients.
+
+[7:08] The people who like caraway came back for like a bajillion of them, right? We had a bunch of many multiple takers on that. Uh Steepy Semi seemed to enjoy the cocktail, actually. He was at the event. Um but then you know, a bunch of people just won't even try it.
+
+[7:14] It's a real heartache when you do polarizing ingredients. Anyway, uh a good time was had by all, especially my kids, who got to milk a cow. Um Nastashi, did you go milk the cow? No. I was making the cocktail.
+
+[7:30] You're not making the cocktail, you were picking mint. Making the cocktail. You are picking mint. See, I demand accuracy from everyone I work with, right? True?
+
+[7:40] True? Accuracy? Anyway. Uh this is interesting, and this has never before happened. We have uh the identical question in from two different uh listeners.
+
+[7:52] One, Johnny Hunter, and uh the other, and I have to scroll down because they're not in the same one. Uh Sam Canson um banava. Ben not ba. How you feel that bananav. Bananov.
+
+[8:04] Banana. Okay. Uh I don't know whether they know each other, um, but uh I'll read them both. The first uh the second one from uh Sam is how would one go about making a bagel cocktail? Obviously, the major challenge is transferring the base wheat bagel flavor into alcohol form, after which one would season with sesame poppy onion salt or whatever their personal bagel bagel preferences might be.
+
+[8:25] Um and then uh on a very similar note from Johnny, I am trying to make a bagel flavored cocktail, and I was wondering if you have some tips on to uh how to achieve something of a bagel flavor in the cocktail. I was thinking of using a sesame bagel, toasting slices of it and infusing it into a malt-based liquor, and then adding in other flavors. Any ideas you have would be great. That's so freaking random. You think those guys know each other?
+
+[8:47] No. Really? Yeah. Is this just like the like the week of the bagel cocktail or the like the it's like the bagel cocktail revolution? Well, uh, I will say that I have uh never made a bagel cocktail before.
+
+[8:59] Uh we did do a uh burrito cocktail once, remember that? Yeah. It was disgusting. Yeah, it grew gross, incredibly bad. We we took a uh I took a Chipotle brand, uh this is as a joke, by the way.
+
+[9:11] I wasn't intending to serve this. A Chipotle brand, uh, I believe it was a bean burrito. Um blended it in a high-speed blender with uh beer, chang beer actually, uh, and then uh centrifuged it to get the solids out, and then uh chilled, got rid of the fat, and recarbonated it. And it tasted like a Subway Italian BMT sandwich, I believe is what we decided it tasted like. It was awful.
+
+[9:32] I didn't have it. You were you were you're busy off sulking somewhere? Sulking. Yeah, it was for a pilot we did for uh for uh some a stoner thing. Uh anyway, I think I might have mentioned in the year before.
+
+[9:43] But bagels I haven't done. However, there is a lot of experience uh in the bartending and in the food world with bread and cereal infused liquids. So uh Sam Mason and uh you know was famous for his cornbread ice cream where he would soak cornbread and milk, I think, and then uh and then use the milk for ice cream. Um Christina Tozi does uh a lot of cereal-based uh ice creams. She soaks cereal in the milk and then uses the milk to make ice cream, milk and cream.
+
+[10:10] Um uh the closest in a cocktail world that I remember is uh Evan Freeman uh had a well-known uh pumpernickel uh pumper nickel raisin scotch, where what he would do is he would slice the pumpernickel raisin bread very uh thinly, uh then he would toast it and he would put it into scotch in a basically a mason jar. Uh and then after several days, he would decant it and I assume squeeze out the bread to recover the excess. Otherwise he'd be a wasteful, wasteful bastard. Maybe maybe he was a wasteful bastard, I don't know. But um uh so that is exactly what I would do.
+
+[10:43] So you could uh as per Sam's thing, just do a plain bagel and then infuse in the other spices. Uh, but I think you'd be uh just as good choosing a bagel that you enjoyed, um, like an everything bagel, let's say, uh, and then uh, you know, slice it. If you want a toasted flavor, I think it's gonna transfer better with a toasted flavor, toast it, although then it'll taste like a toasted bagel, not like a raw bagel. You could do it with a regular raw, you know, not raw, but you know what I mean, untoasted. Uh slice it thinly and let it infuse.
+
+[11:11] I would squeeze the stuff out, expect some loss because of the absorption of the liquid in into the um into the uh bagel. I would assume you get less loss if you uh dehydr at least dehydrated it before you uh before you infused it. I mean, maybe if you don't want to toast it, if you don't want those brown flavors, I would at least dehydrate it to get some of that water out so that you get a better infusion of the stuff into it, uh quicker quicker transfer of the flavor to the alcohol. But that should definitely work. Now the question is what kind of a in other words, I I wouldn't necessarily as um I think it was Johnny's name, right?
+
+[11:41] Uh uh do a a malt-based liquor. Although you could, and when we say malt, I assume you mean something like malt like scotch. But I think something like scotch is gonna be a little too strong. I would go for a little lighter flavor uh to go with your bagel, like I think it's you know, it's i it's not gonna want a very heavy, heavy flavor. I mean, I mean look, I would first I mean I know a lot of my listeners probably aren't vodka fans, but I would try it first in a high proof vodka just to see what the kind of flavor transfer characteristics are, and then move on, 'cause it's only gonna be a couple of days it's gonna take.
+
+[12:10] It's not gonna take you a month to make this stuff, and then switch over to uh, you know, a flavor that you maybe like better with a bagel. Like, I don't think bagel and gin sounds good, do you. No. I mean, if you're gonna do bagel and vodka, then you could go bloody bloody merry-ish on it a little bit. You know what I mean?
+
+[12:24] Some of the flavors that I like with a bagel, like tomato and things like that, or tomato water and a bagel, uh, vodka might be nice. Uh I'm trying to think of what else. I mean, the problem, you know. I think the problem with uh a scotch is just the oak is just gonna be too intense, and I don't know that's gonna mix, it's gonna blow the bagel out, don't you think, Sus? Uh, you know, and and any regular malt stuff's gonna be like a regular malt malt liquor, let's say like cult 45, isn't gonna have enough of a uh uh an alcohol, I think, to really get a good infusion on it.
+
+[12:49] So I think you're kind of stuck there using a lighter flavored uh product. Maybe I mean I don't think you'd want to go into something like a grapple. I'm trying to think. What do you think? Any any other ideas of liquors that might taste good with a bagel?
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+[13:02] I mean, I think vodka might work. I mean, I hate to recommend it necessarily. But look, just test it in vodka first. Yes? Yes.
+
+[13:09] Yeah. Uh make sure you seal the mason jar. I don't think you're gonna need to heat it. Uh the reason for a mason jar is just it's got a wider neck on it. And so, you know, you're not gonna have to try and shove it in and then get it out.
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+[13:18] Um Wow, that's the first time that's ever happened. Two like very strange questions that have never come up before coming out. I bet you those guys know each other. Please write in and tell me whether you guys know each other, and you're having some sort of bagel cocktail off, and you just didn't want to tell the other one that you were writing in desk, right? I mean, I mean, seriously, seriously.
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+[13:34] How's that possible? Okay, so starting with uh actually, you know what? You want to go to our first commercial break and come back? Let's go to our first commercial break. Calling on your questions to 7184972128.
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+[13:43] That's 718497-2128. Stay tuned for a live broadcast. Heritage Radio Network.com. One, two, get down. I paid the call to be both.
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+[14:27] Look at me. No what the bad mup. Look at me. No what the bad mup. Pand and cough beat above.
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+[14:56] Look at me. No what the bad mug. Hello and welcome back to Cooking Issues. Calling all of your questions to 718497-2128. That's 718497-2128.
+
+[15:13] Going with Johnny Hunter's second question. Is it safe to make dry cured meats with beef if you don't have a heat step to kill E. coli at some point? I was wondering if there was another way to kill E. coli and still make good dry cured meats.
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+[15:28] Thanks, Johnny Hunter. Now, uh, this is an excellent question. Um first of all, the question is, are you what kind of dry cured meat are you trying to make? Are you trying to make a uh uh like a sausage, like a dry-cured sausage product, or a whole cut uh dry cured meat like a person or something like that? Now, uh the the problem is there's a number of bacteria that uh can grow in uh dry cured meats, and that the place to go for what the U.S.
+
+[15:55] government considers to be kind of the uh information on this is the National Center for Home Food Preservation, and they have a guide in literature uh review series, and one is smoking and curing, literature review and critical preservation points. And they talk about all the different uh kind of nasty beasties that can grow in uh your meat, like botulism, uh listeria, uh staphylococcus, and E. coli. They go through all of them, but these are going to be the major ones uh they that you have to deal with. Now, the issue with um E.
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+[16:26] coli is uh it's kind of the the the newer varieties of E. coli like O157H7 that are that are very kind of um they can be very virulent and uh difficult to uh you know they they can cause very bad infections if you get them. Um so here's the issue. Dry curing unheated meat products doesn't necessarily kill uh E. coli.
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+[16:51] Even if there is uh quite a bit of salt present and you have a significant dehydration, you will kill some of them, but it's not considered an ultimate kill step. The bad news is is that uh it doesn't take that many living bacteria to necessarily cause uh an infection. There was an outbreak of uh E. coli in uh Washington State in 1994 that was linked to a dry fermented salami product that had been infected with E. coli.
+
+[17:21] And they didn't think in the at the end of the studies that it was caused uh necessarily post cure. In other words, it was probably caused uh by meat that had been highly infected at the beginning of the cure process. And there's another study that was done that of meat that was very highly infected, did show basically, you know, uh a factor of uh I believe it was either 100 or 1,000 reduction in the in the quantity of E. coli present, but still not a total eradication over the course of time of the uh of the um of the of the dehydration and the fermentation. So the the acidity uh and the salt and the dehydration aren't necessarily enough, present enough to obliterate E.
+
+[18:00] coli. Uh and the same holds true for uh meat jerky that's especially meat jerky made out of ground meat, like ground meat strips that you then dehydrate, even though it's dehydrated quite a bit. Apparently, it's not enough of a kill step to necessarily assure that you have eradicated E. coli. Have you killed a bunch of the E.
+
+[18:16] coli? Most probably. Now, on so those guys recommend uh a heat, basically, the the the US government on meat they recommend a 145 degree uh for I think like four or ten minutes or something like that um kill step for their beef containing sausage. So a lot of people to get around this have removed beep beef from a lot of their mixes like pepperoni and what, so it doesn't have to have that because strangely it unless it's got beef in it, they don't expect you to have E. coli in it.
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+[18:43] So they they don't uh they don't ask for or require that. That said, 145 degrees for uh four minutes is a propo or whatever it is, eight minutes is preposterously high temperature to kill E. coli. Uh I mean uh ridiculously high. Uh you should be able to kill it at much, much lower temperatures.
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+[19:04] But I think the reason they do it is I don't know whether they do that step after they dehydrate it or before. If they do it after, then uh it's a lot harder necessarily. There's not as much water, so it's probably not as easy to get the killing temperatures to the uh to the bacteria. Um so that's the unfortunate uh the unfortunate of it. But if you're doing a whole muscle cut like a Prasala, it's assumed that unless you've needled or jacarded the meat, that the inside is relatively sterile.
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+[19:27] And so basically you just need to make sure that the stuff on the outside is killed. And the extreme high salt that's on the outside of a whole muscle cut like a brisala before as it's curing, I think is probably going to wipe out anything that's present. In fact, I've never, I wasn't able to find any cases from a dry cured like a brisala of a poisoning. There have been ham issues where you've had that, but I think they're mostly off of brine ready-to-cook hams, that they've had outbreaks of things like staph, um uh E. coli, uh, thing, things of that nature.
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+[19:56] So those are things um that I would uh, you know, worry worry about. Um you could also go to the FSIS, a food safety inspection services processing procedures for dried meat on the web, and it has a lot of uh a lot of information on it. Um I'm gonna get back because my study of that and of adding nitrates, nitrates and nitrites obviously are added to control bacteria like botulism and to give kind of a cured color uh to meats and a cured flavor. But while I was researching this for this question, I came up with an interesting kind of slaughter and anesthesia idea. But before I get into that, I'm gonna read an update we had from um Andy in Chicago who asked us about bluefish.
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+[20:38] Remember, he was going out and blue fishing. He actually texted us in uh during last week's show, but I didn't have time to to get to it because I didn't see it because we were on the show. So he says, not sure if you'll get this in time for uh today's show. We didn't, that's why we're doing it this week. But wanted to let you know how the bluefish testing went.
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+[20:52] Now, for those of you that know uh that that listened a couple of weeks ago, whatever, uh Andy was gonna go out uh fishing for blues among other things, and I said, please do uh an e-cogime test on bluefish, ekigime being and sp specifically spinal cord destruction, where you stick a needle down the spinal cord of the fish, uh, kill the spinal cord, and therefore stop the messages, uh, you know, the the electrical signals from going to the spinal cords to the muscles. This preserves the ATP in the muscles, which means it goes into rigor uh a little bit later and a little bit softer than it would otherwise, which preserves firmness in flesh. And since bluefish gets nasty and mushy, um I would assume that it would be a prime can and it's a strong swimmer, and usually it's the very strong swimmers that uh uh benefit a lot from uh spinal cord destruction. I thought it'd be great, but I've never been able to run a test, and so Andy ran one for us. So I'm just gonna read what he wrote.
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+[21:43] We caught three bluefish on our first night of fishing, uh, one of which you can see my friend holding in the attached pick. You can't see the attached pick, but I can. Uh, we did not destroy the brain, but cut through the spinal column and tail uh on all three spinal cord destruction, uh and on all of them. Okay, sorry. He cut through the spinal cord and the tail on all three fish.
+
+[22:02] They spinal cord uh destroyed two of them and left all of them in an ice bath in the cooler to bleed out. Um unfortunately he did not get to listen to the show until after everything happened, so he didn't remove the gills and guts immediately. We did fillet them, however, within about two to four hours of catching them. It's an interesting question of whether you should fillet a fish before or after it goes through rigor. The uh this is not what he's writing, I'm just telling you this as an aside.
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+[22:26] Uh if you fillet a fish before it goes into rigor, uh it tends to be more contracted and firmer because it never relaxes as much as if it's left on the muscles uh when it's when it's going into rigor. The idea being that the bones and the structure of the fish uh b hold the meat in place and don't allow it to uh contract as much, so they end up being kind of larger fillets. That said, it might make a firmer fillet with less gaping in the flesh after it comes out of rigor if it's uh if it's filleted before uh it goes into rigor. It's interesting interesting question, and I don't know whether it's gone under rigor. Uh Nills and I years ago ran a couple of tests, but nothing um conclusive, so I never posted on it, but it's very interesting, and there is some research on it because people want to fillet fish as soon as they can after they uh catch them for economic reasons.
+
+[23:07] Anyway, uh we did fillet them within about two hours of catching them. The non-spinal cord destruction fish we ate the first night. Very light cornmeal breading, pan fried and a bit of canola oil. Tasted a bit mushy, but good overall. One of the spinal cord destruction fish we ate the second night after 24 hours of resting, also pan fried and light cornmeal breading.
+
+[23:24] Definitely firmer, flakier, and tastier. The last one we ate the third night, cooked in a little butter, salt, and pepper without any coating. All three of us noticed a market improvement over the previous night's fish, meaty, firm, flaky, and delicious. After 15 plus years of eating bluefish, that was probably the tastiest piece of bluefish I've ever eaten. Huh?
+
+[23:40] Huh? Uh we need to run some more control tests. I'd like very much to run this test again, but it'll probably be another 10 months or more before I'm back on the Gulf Coast. Nevertheless, I think this test can be considered a qualified success, qualified only to the extent that it was only three fish and they were not eaten side by side. The darker flesh near the skin was present, uh was still present on all three fish.
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+[23:58] You know, that's like the bloodline near the thing, the kiai. Uh, I don't mind qi eye. I don't mind eating that part, but it looks a little funky. It is also pretty easy to cut out of the fillet before cooking. Do you have any thoughts on how to treat that?
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+[24:09] Uh, thanks much and look forward to hearing your thoughts, Andy from Chicago. Well, I mean, look, the fact that you like the bluefish the third day, I think is freaking awesome. Especially if you're an experienced blue f uh uh bluefish eater, you know kind of uh the problems and tribulations of bluefish after it sits around. I think uh, you know, obviously I don't there's nothing you can do about the bloodline, by the way, except for cut it out. I mean, that's it.
+
+[24:30] There's nothing you can do with it. I mean, uh, the Japanese uh with big tuna, they'll cut out the bloodline and they'll grill it separately over very high heat. I don't particularly like that preparation because it still has that kind of bloody metallic taste. They they like it, you know, they really like a soy and stuff and they grill it and everything, and they like it, but you know, whatever. It's also kind of small.
+
+[24:44] I like the taste when it's mixed in with the other parts of the fish. Now, the fact that you like that, I think this is is a really a huge opportunity for further study for any uh fisher people who listen to this. I unfortunately don't have an opportunity to fish, and my stepfather refuses to do equijemia or spinal cord destruction on the fish he catches on Cape Cod, and he primarily gets uh striper anyway. I don't know when the last time he got a blue was. But uh bluefish, I think is fantastic fish.
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+[25:13] It's a fish that um, you know, you know, I've always liked, but it's recently becoming more popular. It's our fish, it's there in abundance. If we can make this fish taste significantly better based on its post-slaughter treatment by doing spinal cord destruction, this is uh a huge opportunity for us to improve the quality of a fish that I already think is delicious. But I favor fatty fish anyway. Do you like a fatty fish, Nastasha?
+
+[25:37] She does, she does. She's not talking under the mic, so you might not be able to hear her, but she says that she does. For those of you that you know can't hear the whispered tones of Nastasha leaning into the background and playing with her purse. Anyway, what? Doing something very important.
+
+[25:49] Yeah, what? Can't say she can't say uh, yeah. Great, can't say. Super. Alright.
+
+[25:54] So uh Ryan Santos writes in. Hey Dave, what's up with snails? That's a good question. It's kind of I like an open ended question like that. What's up with snails?
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+[26:03] I've had them both great and terrible. What's the best way to cook them? Is there a low temper uh cooking solution? At what temperatures are snails and then quote unquote cooked? And is this all pointless as I only have access to canned snails?
+
+[26:15] Thanks. Well, yes, if you only have access to canned snails, then all of this is pointless because those snails have been cooked at a very high temperature already. And um, you know, they're basically those snails are uh have been sterilized in water and salt uh and you know probably a court bouillon mixture uh in a can at least 120 C for I don't know like 30 40 minutes. They're they're they're cooked. I mean they are cooked.
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+[26:41] Um but uh even if you don't have access to live snails, I know in Europe they're available because I was looking at my at my the might be the worst translated book I own called uh intensive snail farming, and it's from Italy. From uh I went to a farm called uh La Chocola, which is uh uh a slang word for snail in the north of Italy. Uh the other one's Lumaca, right? Lumaca is the real word, but La Choccul is the name of the farm, and it's uh uh uh you know it means snail in in like uh Etruscan or some crap. Anyway, so the uh by the way, my son says I say crap too much.
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+[27:12] Daddy, you say crap too much. It is true. It's true. I say crap too much? It's better than the rest of the stuff I say anyway.
+
+[27:18] So uh I have this book, and apparently in Europe, and I've never seen it in the US, I'm sure it's available. You can get fresh pack frozen snails in like frozen block form the way that you would get shrimp. And I don't think those ones have been high temp processed, so you could um you could cook with those. Occasionally in fish markets in New York, you will get um crated live snails. And the the way that they're prepared is uh they take snails and that they've been eating, and traditionally, if you catch snails, right, that you haven't been feeding yourself, uh you don't know what they've been eating.
+
+[27:50] They could have been eating plants that are poisonous to you uh but not poisonous to them. So the typical thing is you starve them out for three days, you put them in a cage with mesh so that they don't get like done in their you know, all mired in their own muck, uh, and you just let them stay in that cage for seven days, uh, with no water, nothing, and they'll they'll basically uh they'll cover themselves, they'll go in to basically a hibernating mode, they'll they'll cover their whatever that thing is called, the what is that called? The it's not a operculum, is it? Whatever whatever the flap is that covers the uh the snail, they'll they'll cover that up, it'll seal themselves and they'll go into hibernation, and then they'll last for a long time alive. So that's what they do.
+
+[28:27] They prepare the snails like that and they ship them in a box, at which point they're ready to go. You wash them off, uh, you know, with whatever vinegar or whatever, if they have any stink them, be careful with them because the shells are often quite fragile. Uh then you b uh you boil them for like three minutes in salted water or whatever. This is basically just to kill them. After you kill them, you pick off the trapdoor, uh, take the snails out, then you prepare them using any one of the normal techniques.
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+[28:52] And the normal technique is to cut off the black foot, although I've heard that that's not necessary, uh uh, you know, at the back, whatever that like the guts are in the very back of the snail. Although I like I say, here that's not necessary. And then they're simmered in a court bouillon, which is like a flavored bouillon, uh, for a long time until they're tenderized, and then repacked in the shells with your butter, with herbs, whatever. Although a lot of Italian preps actually, instead of using parsley and all that, use mint. That'd be kind of interesting, right?
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+[29:15] Minted snails? Anyway. In the Northern, they use peppermint apparently in these recipes from uh Etruscan. Anyway, Etruscan recipes. Anywho, um now, uh if you can obtain uh live snails, right?
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+[29:30] I think that's the way to go. I've done it, but I've only done it maybe four or five times, and I haven't done it in probably ten years because I I used to have a fish market that had live snails uh on a seasonal basis, and I would just buy them from them and make them, and they were delicious. We tried to cook some snails that hadn't been purged out properly um when uh when I was in Italy a couple years ago, and it wasn't a hundred percent success. So, I mean, if you can get ones that have been cleaned out and uh we also tried to feed them, which didn't work because you're supposed to fatten snails, and the Romans used to fatten them on milk, and they but you need to know what you're doing. I've had horrible luck.
+
+[30:05] About 15 years ago, I tried to fatten snails on rosemary uh because apparently paella, you know, they fed them herbs, the snails, they would feed them herbs, and then they would taste like the herbs. But I think that's horse hockey. And I talked to Steingarden, he thinks it's BS2, because these snails, not only did they not eat the rosemary, they died in my in my house in the in my apartment on 38th Street, and they stank up the entire apartment. I tried to take the few live snails that were left and cooked them, and my wife was like, Are you nuts? Are you freaking nuts?
+
+[30:32] Who the hell is gonna eat those snails after they've been smelling up our bathroom for the last you know week? Anyway, so I wouldn't recommend doing that. Uh but they are fairly easy to cook. Now, as for sous-vide or low temperature, I couldn't find any recipes on low temperature cooking of snails. That said, the issue with snails when you cook them is uh after you do your kill step with them, you take them out and you're supposed to uh boil them either a couple times or rinse them in something acidic to get rid of the mucus.
+
+[30:58] Snails produce a lot of mucus, and you want to rinse the mucus off before you uh before you uh work with them. Uh so if you're gonna do low temp, I would try to do the kill step initially, pull them out, rinse them off, uh, you know, with uh in water, salt, and vinegar, like get the prep, and then do a low temp prep. But I don't know what temperature you'd use. Like, would you do similar to an octopus? So Keller for that does like five hours at 77 C.
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+[31:21] I do it usually like just a regular simmering water for like three hours in a bag. Uh or Keller has his cuttlefish recipe at 64 degrees Celsius for 10 hours, which he says it's good, but I have no experience with. The one I'd really like to try is uh whatever Nathan Mirville does for uh gooey duck, which is if you're looking it up and you don't know what it is, it's spelled geoduck, and it's the porn starves clam. It looks like well, it's it yeah, just look it up and you'll see what it looks like. It's crazy.
+
+[31:47] It's like, you know, uh, and he made, I think, the best tasting uh gooey duck that I've ever had at his uh modernist uh dinner that he did uh, you know, at his lab, and he did it at a very low temp and not that long, basically just warm through in a CVAP oven. But I don't have a copy of Modernist cuisine, so I couldn't look it up. Anyone that has it out there, uh, write in or call in right now at seven uh seven one eight four nine seven two one two eight and tell us what uh their cooking technique is because I'd like to give that. I think that would uh be useful. Anyway, let's go to our second commercial break and we'll come back with the last questions.
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+[32:55] Open up the hook in the man. Two bumping two punk deck, head, two, two monk, head, turn it up, the man. The bears need a little walking down. Too funk in here. Open the window, let in some air.
+
+[33:53] Put a little air freshener under the drums, open up the window, let out some. I love some live James Brown. Thank you, Jack. Is that yours, Jack? That's not mine.
+
+[34:01] Who knows whose call was that? Oh, my call, yes. Yeah, nice. Uh any any live James Brown is good. You know, we used to play, was it was it always James Brown for the center, right?
+
+[34:09] For our middle track was always James Brown, and someone started complaining. Exactly. What the who the hell complains about James Brown? Look, look, if you don't like James Brown, there is something wrong with your funk motor. I think it's because they liked when Jack and I put on Phil Collins that one time.
+
+[34:23] That's right. That's it. Phil was it Susudio? It was a little bit of Genesis and a little bit of Phil. I can't remember what it is.
+
+[34:31] Phil style Genesis, like uh that's all, like really bad Genesis. And I'm not saying that's bad for all you Genesis lovers. By the way, you know who's a big Genesis lover? Famous violinist. Stop.
+
+[34:42] Let's not talk about that. No? Let me just say there's a guy who owns a three and a half million dollar violin whose only rock music that he likes is Genesis. Other than classical, he likes his Genesis. And I won't say that his last name is Bell because I I can't say that.
+
+[34:58] But when confronted by, you know, I don't know who, let's say, someone whose name is Nastasha. Really? She she literally said, Really? Phil Collins, that's all, which is, you know, one of their later and you know, what her weak songs. He's like, oh no, no, no, no, early Genesis.
+
+[35:17] Okay, getting in trouble. Alright. So the other question from San Canson Benavev uh Benanav. Sorry, Sam, that I can't get your name uh right. Someone call it.
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+[35:30] If you pronounce it to me three times in a row, I should be able to get it. And by the way, he's at the University of Wisconsin, Madison, Mad Town, which everyone who's from there loves it more than they love anything. You know, I've never I've never been. The closest I've been is to Oshkosh. Uh the International Agriculture and Natural Resources Community and Environmental Sociology.
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+[35:47] That's the hugest name for a department I've ever heard in my entire life. Anyway, uh, he also asked about uh the uh bagel cocktail. Uh and his other question, though, was what is the secret to a crispy pickle? We do lots of pickling with a variety of vegetables. However, once the product is canned, they become mushy, albeit delicious.
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+[36:07] Uh the most I have found is to salt, use ice baths, and even some recipes that claim grape or oak leaves will help keep the product crisp. Any thoughts? All right, okay. Uh so the grape leaf thing is really about um cucumbers. So in cucumbers, there is uh an there's there are enzymes in cucumbers, uh, and there's a huge long list of them that I got off of a uh uh a website.
+
+[36:34] Um a lot of like well, they're basically um they they're pectinase enzymes, like peck pectin um esterase and uh like lots of really random ones that I'm not gonna try to pronounce. Okay, exopolygalactorunase, uh endopolygalactoronase, which you know, endoxylinase, basically a bunch of aces that uh enzymes that break down um pectin and even cellulase that break down like a hemicellulose and cellulose that that destroy the structure over time unless the enzymes are destroyed. Uh so you can either destroy them or you can inhibit them, or you can remove them. So, in a cucumber, right, the grape leaves that are added apparently have something in them that can uh inhibit the activity of those enzymes. And I don't know what that something is.
+
+[37:21] I didn't have time to figure it out, but I've seen it done uh that listed not just in kind of like home nut job sites, but also in some university agricultural extension sites. So I'm assuming that there is some validity to that, although you know I don't know specifically what the ingredient is. The other thing is that um those enzymes are concentrated in the blossom end of the cucumber, which is why they say to cut off the sixteenth inch, uh a sixteenth inch or so slice at the blossom end of the cucumber. The blossom end is not the stem end. The blossom, so if you like, think about a zucchini flower, when you see it, you get those baby zucchinis with the flower coming off of them, right?
+
+[38:02] So the blossom end is actually the uh the other end, the end that sticks out of the plant. And uh from the research that I was able to do, that is where it's mostly concentrated. So taking a small slice off of that section will get rid of uh a lot of where those enzymes are. Also, if there's any flower material left that flakes off at that end, that can cause because the flowers maintain that enzymatic activity basically, even if they are dried. So uh, and there was a bunch of studies done in the 50s where they put flowers even into pickles that had already been done, and it softened those pickles.
+
+[38:33] So you really want to get rid of those enzymes. Okay? So that's one way is to cut that off. That's going to lower the enzyme. Use uh use pickles that are made for pickling because they have a lower concentration of those enzymes to begin with, are more uniform, usually thinner, and are usually kind of denser and don't have any airvoids, which are also going to lead to better pickles.
+
+[38:51] So choosing your right variety, uh pickling them right after you pick them so that they don't start softening up so that they're because they basically start getting worse the minute they're taken uh off the plant. So you want to pickle them soon after they've been harvested, choose the correct variety of pickle, uh cucumber rather. Uh this is cucumbers only, by the way, and then trim off that um that stem end. Hey, sorry. Trim off the blossom end.
+
+[39:13] Uh the other thing you can do, if you notice most recipes, they have you pouring hot liquid over uh the pickles. This is for quick pickling, that is, uh, you know, with vinegar, not like lactic acid pickles. Pour a hot mixture over it and then heat it uh to like 180 uh or just below for uh a certain period of time. The reason they start with hot is because they don't want those ends, they want to kill those enzymes right away before they can do any softening. So you hit them with that hot water and you keep them uh high enough to kill the enzyme, but below 185, where the pectins are gonna start breaking down due to heat, and you wipe out the enzymes, and this is uh gonna create a firmer pickle.
+
+[39:50] If you go over 180, really you're shafted because you're gonna soften the pickle, uh the cucumber. So those high temperatures can uh like high but not too high temperatures inactivate the enzymes and cutting off that blossom and reduces the load of enzymes in there anyway. Uh aside from that, high salt levels are gonna make it so that it stays crisper. It's gonna get more wilted due to osmosis, but it's gonna stop the uh those enzymes from from working. So those all work.
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+[40:14] In a traditional lactic acid cucumber, uh, you know, like where it's like sour sauerkraut style, you know, lactic acid bacteria, the high salt level, I think, uh stops the enzymes from working and so leads to having a crisp pickle. Uh the the other thing you can add uh now, go to regular vegetables. I wasn't able to find much on um kind of pectin breakdown enzymes in other things like cauliflower and whatnot, which make delicious pickles. But uh that said, I'm assuming high salt will work, but if you really need want to keep it crisp and you're having problems, uh try certain things are just gonna get all wilti because of the salt, and there's nothing you can do about it. Um but uh try um lime, pickling lime.
+
+[40:53] They no one uses aluminum more. I don't know why, because they don't want to put aluminum in because people are freaked out about aluminum. But uh you can use pickling lime, and the calcium in that strengthens the pectin in the cell walls and makes it such that they uh stay firm basically uh no matter what, you know, even if you cook them. So what they'll do is they'll make a lime solution with salt. And lime is you can get pickling lime, you can get uh cow from a Mexican store, you can get Thai lime paste, you can get anything.
+
+[41:17] Make a uh solution of lime, it'll settle out salt, and then put the cucumber or whatever vegetable in, let it soak, I don't know, a couple hours overnight. Uh, there's a couple of recipes online, but I can't remember them off the top of my head. Then you have to uh get once it does its calcium thing, you have to soak it in a couple of uh regular clean water baths to get the excess calcium out. I once packed in heavy calcium water cucumbers, and over the course of a couple days, they were the most disgusting things in the world. They had the most bizarre texture.
+
+[41:45] So you don't want to over-lime them, right? But then they'll stay crunchy for a long, long time. That'll work with other with anything, basically. Your last resort, and you can't get this, I don't even know why I'm telling you this. You can buy pectin methylesterase, which is the an enzyme that actually strengthens uh the cell walls of uh plants uh enzymatically.
+
+[42:05] And you can buy that. The commercial brand, it's from Novozymes, it's called Novo Shape. And I can take a blueberry or a raspberry, soak it in Novo Shape for a couple of hours, uh Novo shape in water, and then boil it and it won't even break because it stays firm enough. So it's really it's cool stuff. So those are basically your your range of up of things.
+
+[42:23] Heat treat to kill any enzymes that are present, but not uh at a high enough temperature to soften. On a cucumber, cut off the blossom end, not the stem end, uh although we might as well cut them both level, it doesn't matter. Uh and then and discard. Um use fresh uh ingredients that haven't had a time to break down. And if you need to use pickling lime uh and alum really isn't uh even though it does the same thing as calcium, isn't necessarily recommended anymore.
+
+[42:50] Uh what is that? Does that sound like good advice or no? Yes. Yes. Oh, and higher salt levels.
+
+[42:54] If you do low salt pickle, it's gonna get softer, I think, uh no matter what. Even though the salt, like I say it osmotically is gonna make it uh shrivel up a little bit. Apparently, it stops any sort of enzymatic breakdown, and also stops bacteria from growing, which can otherwise make things soft. Yes? Yes?
+
+[43:08] Okay. Now, the last thing, as I was researching um uh nitrites for today's uh thingamajig when I was doing cured meats, uh I came across an interest interesting um an interesting thing. You familiar with the blue people of Kentucky? No? So there used to be uh uh famously a family, I believe their name was the fugates of Kentucky, the blue fugates of Kentucky, and they had a uh a congenital, or they have still a congenital uh disease uh called uh what's it called?
+
+[43:38] Uh I'll look I'll look it up. But basically the idea is that their hemoglobin isn't oxygenated enough because they don't have uh the proper enzymes to um take uh deoxygenated hemoglobin and reoxygenate it at the same rate uh that we do. Uh and so here we go. It's called uh methemoglobinemia. Uh and so they were blue because their their their blood didn't have as much oxygen and they were very pale people and they lived in Kentucky.
+
+[44:04] So they had this whole thing and they were known as the blue fugates of Kentucky or the blue people of Kentucky. They since figured out how to cure that so they're not they're not blue anymore. But where does it where is that where does that bring me because it turns out that uh there's in Australia they're researching a technique to induce uh methemoglobinemia in wild pigs by feeding them sodium nitrate which is the same thing that we cure meats with and pigs have a very low level of uh the enzyme that uh that basically convert it's called um methemoglobin reductase that uh converts methemoglobin back to oxygen carrying hemoglobin so they have a low much lower level of this enzyme than we do so uh basically they feed them uh sodium nitrite pills in hog baits and they've called the baits check this out are called hogon hog on hogon baits there are 20 grams of microencapsulated sodium nitrates uh spread throughout uh you know uh basically baits that they put in the forest and what's uh awesome about this hog bait is that they eat it and their blood no longer carries uh oxygen right because they they have uh too much uh met hemoglobin in but they don't feel distressed they go into basically they get woozy and they fall asleep they pass out and then they die. So uh we may and like I've said many times is that you I don't know whether I've said it here but many times I can't remember whether I say here or not. Your body doesn't sense in pigs' bodies.
+
+[45:33] They don't sense lack of oxygen, they sense excess carbon dioxide. So the pig is not going to feel stressed. They don't freak out uh when they're being killed with uh sodium nitrite. Um so I was thinking, because we've been thinking a lot about anesthetics for uh fish. I've done a lot of work with anesthetics for fish, anesthetics for crustaceans, um, and with proper slaughtering uh practices, but this is basically only being used for um killing wild hogs in a humane manner.
+
+[46:03] You know what they've feeding them before? Rat poison. How nasty is that? Feeding them rat poison, which is basically causes you to bleed out internally, which can't be pleasant. Um, and um I'm wondering whether or not like this can be used for a uh for humane slaughter practice, basically anesthesia for regular pigs that are going to market.
+
+[46:23] Um they pass out and die within one hour without any noticeable. There's a spike in certain biological mark markers like cortisol, which are normally can uh added with stress, but uh the other biological markers weren't changed, and it could just be due to the fact that of the increased um uh the the shift of oxygen in the blood. Anyway, so I'm gonna leave you guys this week with that idea of is there a possibility for more humane slaughtering of pigs by basically putting them to sleep with what amounts to a food grade uh anesthetic, sodium nitrite, and can this be feasible? I'd like any feedback from our readers, uh listeners rather, and this has been cooking issues fish. Oh, you didn't Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[47:22] You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as the schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening. Today we'd like to send a special thank you to the following restaurants for supporting No Goat Left Behind.
+
+[47:52] Sambar and Mopesh. Show your support at these restaurants by ordering one of the menu items featuring goat. Goat is the most eaten protein in the entire world, yet in the U.S. we import most of our goat. Our dairy farms are forced to kill some male goats at birth because there's no market for them.
+
+[48:09] Help make a change. Support No Goat Left Behind. As a part of National Food Day, St. John's Bread and Life, Brooklyn's innovative and lifesaving food service program based in Bedford Stuyvesant, is inviting Brooklyn chefs and purveyors to learn about how the organization is marrying the procurement of old-fashioned, locally grown organic produce with the latest technology to deliver healthy, cost effective meals to those in need. St.
+
+[48:35] John's Bread and Life, located at 795 Lexington Avenue, will hold an open house on Monday, October 24th from 6 30 to 8 30 p.m. Visit www.foodday.org to sign up for the event.
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+[0:04] Broadcasting live from Robertas in Bushwick, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you live from the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from 12 to 1245. Joined to you with you us today in the studio by Nastasha the Hammer Locals.
+
+[0:34] Hello, Nastasha. Hi. She just got back uh from uh California. She was visiting home uh in the LA region because her sister was on the homecoming court at her high school homecoming thingamajig, correct? Yeah.
+
+[0:47] Didn't win though, right? No. But you're you feel glad that she didn't win. Yeah, I'm happy. You're happy that she didn't win?
+
+[0:52] You care to tell us why? Because you have to go back home and crown the new princess. Yeah, which is weak, right? It's weak. It's weak.
+
+[0:58] Who wants to go back to high school after they've already graduated? It's lame. Well, unless you're robbing the cradle. But that wasn't me. I never did that.
+
+[1:04] Anyway, um, right or wrong. Phil Bravo. Wow. Friend of ours, Phil Bravo, well-known cradle robber, folks. Well known cradle cradle rubber.
+
+[1:14] Can you hear me? Yes. That was working. Uh I was nominated for Homecoming King. You were?
+
+[1:18] Wow. That's awesome. Where did you where where were you in the I lost? It was in Long Island. Are you also glad that you lost?
+
+[1:24] You didn't have to go back to uh high school and crown the next one. I don't think I had to do that. That sounds crazy. That's like an LA thing, maybe. Sounds like it.
+
+[1:30] You know what I heard? I heard from Nastasha that the Queen did get to ride down the boulevard in a low rider with the hydraulics pancaking the whole way down the down the tarmac. How awesome is that. I've always wanted to get into a lowrider with the hydraulics. They are sweet.
+
+[1:45] Was it green? Was it green paint with green with the sparkly green? Yes. Oh, geez. There's another lifelong dream.
+
+[1:50] I still have time, folks. I'm not dead yet. Uh okay. So call in all of your questions, cooking or otherwise, to 718 497 2128. Memorize 718 497 2128.
+
+[2:04] Today's episode is brought to you again. They must love us, Dust. They do. They do. By the Modernist Pantry.
+
+[2:10] Today's show is I'm just gonna read it. They write they they wrote what I just said, which is today's show is sponsored by the Modernist Pantry. You gotta see you know, it's a pain that when you're reading, you can't actually pay attention to what you're saying as you're reading it. That's why sometimes I'll stop my reading voice and start making comments. Which is dumb.
+
+[2:23] Alright, do you love to experiment with new cooking techniques and ingredients, but hate to overspend for pounds of supplies when only a few grams are needed per application? Modernist Pantry has a solution. They offer a wide range of modern ingredients and packages that make sense for the home cook or enthusiast. And most cost only around five bucks. Only five bucks.
+
+[2:39] Hey, five bucks, that's cheap. All right? Hey, saving you time, money, and storage space, whether you're looking for hydrocolloids, pH buffers, or even meat glue. You'll find it at Modernist Pantry. And if you need something that they don't carry, just ask.
+
+[2:51] Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you with inexpensive shipping to any country in the world. There's gotta be some country they can't ship to. Yeah. Right? Who knows how they do it?
+
+[3:01] I have no idea. What does it mean inexpensive? I don't know. I'd like to know. Someone just some someone from another country order from these guys and tell me tell me.
+
+[3:07] Like New Zealand. Uh uh. Anyway, Modernist Pantry is your one stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients. Uh Modernist Pantry now carries eight types of methylcellulose in various grades and viscosities. Fans with cooking issues at place in order of $25 or more before next week's show.
+
+[3:23] We'll get a free package of high viscosity methylcellulose. Simply use the pro uh promo code CI59 when pricing your order online at modernistpantry.com. Visit it visit modernistpantry.com today for all of your modernist cooking needs. Okay, listen, methylcellulous, interesting. Uh first of all, it's the only hydrocolloid that I use that isn't actually all natural.
+
+[3:44] Methylcellulose doesn't is not a naturally occurring product. What they do is they take cellulose from like, you know, cotton or whatever, wood pulp, whatever it is, and uh they modify it uh to have certain properties. Now, what I would like the modernist pantry guys to do is specify not a viscosity necessarily, but exactly what type of methylcellulose we're talking about. Most chefs use uh methylcellulose, and here's one for you hydroxypropol methylcellulose from uh Dow. Uh, you know, the you know, Dow, like big, the big company DAO.
+
+[4:15] And their brand name is methocel, right? M-E-T-H-O-C-E-L, methyl cell. And the viscosity is only one of the things you actually need to know about methylcel. It's also the type uh that it is, because they have uh kind of widely differing properties depending on whether it's methylcellulose, hydroxypropo methylcellulose, what the chain length is, etc., exactly what series it is. Now, uh the the super high viscosity ones are often used uh because the interesting about methyl cells, methyl cell uh gels when it heats and melts when it when it cools down.
+
+[4:46] So this is the the hydrocolloid of choice. If you've ever been to a restaurant or seen an application on the on the on the television set, uh where someone uh takes a liquid and squeezes it into a broth and it sets up into like a noodle or a gel right away into a hot broth. Typically that's a methyl cellulose is what they're what they're doing there, methocell, a Dow methyl cell, and typically a high viscosity one so that it doesn't bleed out. However, I don't ever do that. What my favorite methyl cell is not actually a high viscosity methyl cell, it's methylcel F like Franc 50.
+
+[5:17] Methylcel F50. And aside from sounding like a like an expensive Ferrari, it does sound like a Ferrari, right? Methylcel F50. Anyway, um, it's not. What it is, is it's a low to medium viscosity methyl cell that has uh amazing whipping properties.
+
+[5:31] So you add like eight grams per liter of this stuff to whatever, you know, fruit, puree, juice, whatever. And then you uh in a blender, and then you put it into like a kitchen aid with a balloon uh whisk on it, and you whip it just like egg whites, and the stuff whips up just like a meringue. This is what I believe this is what Sam Mason way back in the day used to use to make his uh he used to make like uh like foams that had like the texture of like a Guinness head. He was looking for the texture that was on top of a Guinness beer, was what he was shooting for. He used to get it with this.
+
+[6:02] I forget whether he actually used Guinness as the foam with F50 or not. I can't remember. Anyway, so it makes up into a nice, almost like an egg white meringue. And here's the cool part. If you pipe it onto uh a silpat or whatever, a piece of acetate, stick it in a dehydrator or in an oven that's set to dehydrate, uh they don't fall.
+
+[6:20] They gel up a little bit and solidify, and they turn into these amazing meringues that disappear in your mouth. They're not like a regular meringue and have a little bit of a proteiness, they boom disappear in your mouth, and they're amazing. They can be made with any flavor, and they're uh they're vegan, not that you know I don't know, they they can be vegan. Nastasha made a vegan face. I wish you could see her vegan face.
+
+[6:39] It's like the equivalent of like, you know, the nose crinkles up a little bit, and it's like someone made an off smell or something in the room, which is unfortunate because I don't feel that way about other human beings the way Nastasha does. That's why we call her the hammer. Louise. What? You don't like vegans very much.
+
+[6:52] What? I don't have anything against. I think V, look, it's like it's like I don't it's unfair. It's unfair. I uh it's difficult for me to cook for vegans, right?
+
+[7:04] So it's it makes it it's very hard for me to cook for vegans. And you're upset with their life choices. I wish they hadn't made that life choice. Yes, I do wish they hadn't made that life choice. But it's nothing against them personally, you know.
+
+[7:14] Um you know, I have how many vegan recipes do I have that I actually make that are vegan? Like two. Two. I have two. So if you come to my house and you're a vegan, please let me know in advance, and I'll make one of my two recipes that's vegan.
+
+[7:28] One of them is actually a delay. You know, you can you could take a lot of uh good Indian food and substitute out olive oil for ghee and get a passable result. I mean, I guess that's what a lot of people do. I don't know, who knows? Why why the hell are we talking about this?
+
+[7:38] This has nothing to do with anything. Metacellulose. Metalcellulose, vegan. It just happens to be the one thing I use, it's not all natural. Uh the other the other one I don't use that a lot of chefs use, uh, is propylene glycol allogenate.
+
+[7:49] It's not natural. Not unholy, just not natural. Doesn't exist in nature, right? Being the definition of natural. All right.
+
+[7:57] So, call in all of your questions to 718-497-2128. Okay. Uh Dave and Company, hi again. My hunting friend wants to make a country ham out of venison. Would the hanging time be comparable to pork?
+
+[8:09] Or would you use it and would you use a different cure? Uh I told him you might want to incorporate juniper berries or gin into the cure. Am I full of crap? Thanks, Derek Bodkin. Well, I wouldn't put well, that depends.
+
+[8:20] I mean, I guess you could put gin in. Um I mean, I I typically for a country ham kind of an application wouldn't be using any liquid, so it wouldn't be kind of brined in. But I mean it's not gonna hurt, it's gonna evaporate fairly quickly. But I would, you know, I would use you could add whatever spices you want. I mean, um, you know, so delicious, uh, delicious something with juniper in it that you might want to taste would be speck.
+
+[8:40] Speck's delicious, right? Mm-hmm. You like Speck, right? You know what though, it's one of those things. I enjoy the Speck for which is basically what they'll do is they'll take a ham leg, they'll roll it out flat, they'll cure it flat, which means it cures a lot faster than it would if it was left in a whole roll.
+
+[8:51] Uh, and they typically smoke it, and it's uh typically I believe juniper, right? Is the flavor in it? Yes. And there's there's one, there's a whole, you know, from Alto Latigi up in the north of Italy, and then also across the border in the in the kind of uh Austrian-Germanic kind of creation, their Speck. And I happen to prefer the Italian one because the one that's typically uh north of the border is a little bit drier, the ones we get, at least the ones that I've had.
+
+[9:15] And so uh Speck is delicious, and that's got juniper in it. The trick with curing venison is venison is not uh it doesn't have typically as much fat in the meat as would something like pork. Um I would assume that it would cure closer to beef in terms of uh like a presala. I think it would cure closer to that kind of a situation. So you know, if you want it to cure for the length of time that a ham would cure for, you're gonna need to protect it from drying out too much, right?
+
+[9:45] So uh, you know, what you could do is salt it down uh and get the salt level kind of the the way you want. It's gonna take some practice. I'd have to look up uh exactly what's what's going on. Um but uh I would after it after it starts to dehydrate a bit, I would cover it with fat, uh like with a layer of fat, or maybe you could go uh maybe you could go um what's the word I'm looking for? Like, you know, parma style, where after it ages for a certain bit, they'll put the face of the meat, which is the part of the meat that shows it doesn't have fat, they'll take lard and I forget, like is it rice flour or something?
+
+[10:16] They'll take lard and something like rice flour and work it over the face of the ham there so to stop the drying out. So I would do that so that way you get the the moisture level that you want, and then you'd cover it up and let it dry out uh, you know, it so it wouldn't dry out too much. And I think it should work. I think that would be great. I mean, juniper sounds great.
+
+[10:31] I might even smoke it a little bit with new sauce. Yes. It'd be delicious. And it sounds like a very good alternative to uh, you know, the venison jerky that everyone makes. Of course, also, if your friend is a hunter, and I don't know whether we've already discussed this because I can't remember which questions you sent in, please go buy an immersion circulator.
+
+[10:46] If you're gonna take the trouble to buy a weapon, get a hunting license, go sit in a tree for like a day and a half, waiting for a deer to come by that's big enough that you want to shoot it in the in the neck and take it home. Spend the 800 bucks on an immersion circulator so that you don't have to turn everything into sausage and chili, all right? Because uh venison cooked in an immersion circulator, not for too long necessarily. If you cook it too long, sometimes it can get gamey. But venison cooked in an immersion circulator, even like an older one, is gonna be freaking delicious.
+
+[11:17] And I know this not from theory, but from actual practice, not of my own stuff, because I wish I could hunt, but I don't have a hunting license. I don't I want one kind of pretty badly. I want you know, I'd like to I don't really want to sh I don't really necessarily want to shoot a deer. I really want to get uh things that you can't buy otherwise. I mean, I want to get like grouse and woodcock and all those things.
+
+[11:34] Anyway, Nastasha once saw me eat a grouse and a woodcock and a teal in uh in uh England because they can serve them in the restaurants in England, and it had like the little babies in it and everything, and I thought she was gonna quit working for cooking issues because I was literally like like there was blood there's blood all over my face, like cooked semi-cooked innards, guts and blood all over my face because I was like kind of burying my I was burying my face in the carcass of the verge, trying to eat them out and and spitting the p think pink p think spitting out the the the babies on the plate. The head on the plate, and I thought that was the end of it until the waitress came over and said, You're not gonna eat the head. Well, she knows what's up. Uh anyway, so as we've said on the show many times, immersion circulator should be uh Hunter's best friend. Like, it should basically, when they give you the license, they should say, Do you have an immersion circulator?
+
+[12:25] Would you like to buy one? Do you know what I mean? Oh, speaking of which, before we go to the break, uh, a couple of weeks ago, somebody called in and was like, I have an immersion circulator, but what the hell am I gonna do with it? Basically, remember that? It was like, why like what am I gonna do with it for normal family meal that's not like uh you know not competent?
+
+[12:43] Yeah. Well, I did another one over the weekend. Uh, so uh local, no offense in case you're the owner of a fine fair out there, but the local crappy like grocery store, key food sea town style thing is fine, called fine fair where I live. You know, it's just like the local, you know, grocery store. And uh so I went in there and I bought your regular run-of-the-mill sausage, and I cooked it for family dinner because you know, a couple weeks ago we went to Cesare Cosella's farm, the Thanksgiving farm, where they, you know, they help um multiply disabled and autistic uh kids and adults uh through therapy, including working on a farm and whatnot.
+
+[13:17] Anyway, uh so they gave us they have this kabbocha squat, which are s preposterously delicious. I mean, just absurdly delicious. And so I cooked those because they gave us a whole bunch along with uh some Brussels sprouts, very good. And they told us to cook the leaves on the top of the Brussels sprout stalk, which were surprisingly good. They take a long time to cook, kind of like collards, uh, but incredibly uh delicious.
+
+[13:39] So we had those along with potatoes that they so we had a we had a Thanksgiving farm meal, except for the nostage. So I took the sausage and uh I threw it in a Ziploc bag with a little bit of oil, threw that sucker in the immersion circulator at 60 degrees uh Celsius, which is 140. You should all remember that, by the way. I don't care whether you cook in Fahrenheit or Celsius, you should remember that 60 is 140 and vice versa. Anyway, cook it, threw it onto my salamander.
+
+[14:01] If you're not on the salamander, you can I don't know, grill it, do whatever, for like you know, a minute on a side, and they were like the best dang sausages in the world. And people were like, Oh my god, where'd you get that sausage? I was like, I bought it at the fine fanfare for nothing. But because I cooked it right, it was delicious because typically you overcook a sausage and you're relying on the extra fat on the inside of a sausage to make it taste good. What you should do is just not overcook it from the beginning.
+
+[14:22] Now, when Philip Preston from Polyscience, our good buddy, was putting together the cookbook that we gave him recipes for for uh his immersion circulator, he uh we we gave him that recipe. We're like sausage. You should have sausage in there. And he's like, Well, why? I don't understand.
+
+[14:36] Like, why do you need to cook a sausage in an immersion circulator? And it's because I can go by the cheapest my mouth, not the curse. Anyway, and uh, you know, it's not bad quality. I would never buy bad quality for my family, but it's like you know, inexpensive stuff, and you treat it right as a big thing. Did you do it in beer?
+
+[14:49] What? Why didn't you do it in beer? Uh oh, I told him he could do like brats, sprats and beer, but I just did it in olive oil. I didn't want to like poach these things out. I just did them in a ziplock in olive oil at 60, uh, you know, for like, you know, whatever.
+
+[15:01] I wasn't even paying attention to it, and I threw it. And then you know what I did? Uh I didn't want to fire up my circulator for the leftovers. So I took uh a Ziploc bag and I threw, and this is an AirVay special, I threw mashed potatoes into the Ziploc, squished it flat, sealed it. So you s I here's the trick.
+
+[15:17] You squished the mashed potatoes in the Ziploc bag down to a layer like maybe like three-eighths of an inch thick. And then I threw it into a pan of simmering water, like a frying pan of simmering water, and they heated up like lickety split without uh without you know having any burn spots on the bottom. They were hot all the way through, and I didn't lose any moisture off of them, so it was perfectly reheated mashed potatoes, which are a pain. It's a pain to reheat mashed potatoes and not have them turned to crap. Uh so I did that.
+
+[15:43] So anyway, and you could do that in the immersion circulator if you already had it running. In fact, what we do now in classes is we make our mashed potatoes uh, you know, in advance, like in the morning, pack them into zips or into into uh uh vacuum bags, but not without the vacuum meat, guess you could vacuum them, and then uh at the last you know, a couple of minutes, we squish it real thin, throw it into the circulator bath and reheat it, and they're perfect. Because don't you hate when you're making mashed potatoes and do you ever make mashed potatoes? Yeah, yeah. Don't you hate it when you're always worried about getting them done at the last minute?
+
+[16:09] You're like, oh my god, the mashed potatoes, either they're gonna get cold, or then you have to stick them over a water bath to keep them hot, and the water bath boils over. It's always a pain. Mashed potatoes are always a pain to finish off when you're finishing off the rest of your food. At least if you care about them the way I do. I don't know, maybe Nastasha's one of those people that beats the hell out of them in the kitchen aid until they turn into a soupy gloop.
+
+[16:27] Are you one of those people? My mom hand mashes them, so there's all the the leftover chunks of potato that didn't get mashed. She's making the vegan face, so you don't like the leftover chunks of uh no, not at all. I mean I look because I am who I am, and people like my chef friends would make fun of me if I didn't. I use the food mill to make the mashed potatoes.
+
+[16:44] But honestly, I think one of the easiest things if you don't have a food mill, the potato ricers work really, really well. The problem is I always burn my hand when I use them. You know what I'm talking about? The potato ricers? They don't leave any little chunklets, they're pretty good.
+
+[16:56] Um I also uh diverge from most of my chef friends who use all they use only butter. But I don't necessarily like I don't want to look, people are gonna call me and tell me I'm a jerk, but I'm not one of these guys. I feel like I need to put so much freaking butter in that I can actually lubricate the potatoes entirely with butter alone. So I actually add cream and butter. What about you, Stuzz?
+
+[17:15] Yeah, we add milk. That's for suckers. But like I add cream and butter, but people are like, why do you want to add cream? Why do you want to add all that water? It's just gonna ruin it.
+
+[17:22] Just add more butter. But I don't really want like, you know, like the Robichon potatoes that are like half butter. And I don't really necessarily I don't need that. You know what I mean? I don't know.
+
+[17:29] It's not my thing. So I add a mixture of cream and butter. Uh throw it in the ziploc and keep it hot. So those are some more things to do with your immersion circulators, and I spent hardly any time talking about the venison, but that's life in the big city. Let's go to our first commercial break, cooking issues.
+
+[18:52] And welcome back to Cooking Issues. Calling all your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. So let the record show that vegan face was originated on this show. Yeah when everybody else starts using that.
+
+[19:08] Hey, you made your vegan face. You think that's gonna be that one's gonna be a good idea. If Jack has anything to do with it, he will, he's gonna get all he'll get all the hosts, all the hosts of all the shows. By the way, uh today is a it's literally Roberta's is a one-man Jack Insley show today. Jack Insley being our our intrepid engineer here.
+
+[19:26] Roberta's is shut down for the day. Yeah uh because the entire staff is off racing go-karts in New Jersey. Is this true or false? Correct. I spoke to the chef of Robert's Carlo a couple weeks ago when I was at the farm.
+
+[19:40] And he told me this is going to happen. He didn't tell me it was going to be on a Tuesday. And here's the thing. They have a no they have a no drinking while on the go-kart policy, which is very wise. Very wise.
+
+[19:51] Do you think that's wise, Jack? With them, yeah. Yeah, yeah. No drinking and go-karting. So, but they have apparently, and I don't know how this shook out, uh, they have a no, it's close track, by the way, folks.
+
+[20:02] Close track. They have no uh getting on the go-kart drunk policy. So the Roberta's idea was to get everyone shellacked on the bus ride down. So my that makes sense. Yes.
+
+[20:14] So my prediction for the fight is pain, as uh clever lang would say for all of you Rocky 3 fans out in the audience. Well, I'll be making your Morigand uh salad, so hopefully it's good. Yeah, Jack went and fired up the pizza oven so that uh I've never seen his place this empty. It's crazy, right? Spooky.
+
+[20:30] Yeah, I was like slamming on the door because I I can't be bothered to read things that are around me, like signage. And so, like the door said, you know, uh call Jack if you need to get in, but I didn't see it. Okay. This, by the way, you know what sucks? This is our Halloween episode, and we didn't think about anything to do for Halloween.
+
+[20:45] I forgot that Halloween's on the Monday. It's a little late to celebrate for Halloween on on a Tuesday. No one gives a crap about Halloween after it's over. By the way, my son says I say crap too much. You do.
+
+[20:56] Anyway. Uh speaking up of my younger son. Uh my older son, who's obsessed with the MTA uh and all things trained, stuff he doesn't want to be on them, wants to be an uh he wants to be a Metro North ticket taker, i.e. conductor this year. Try to go buy a Metro North hat, folks.
+
+[21:12] Metro North is our commuter railroad. Try to. Please. Nastasha, who's a genius at this sort of thing. So, like, if I want to find by the way, if I want to find you, whoever you are, like she will find you, get your personal number and or your assistant's number and start hounding them.
+
+[21:27] So please don't like ask me to get her on your case because she will track you down. Found a uh found a conductor hat, and I have a little miniature conductor's hat. I think it might even be too small for my ten year old, though. I don't I didn't think there were human beings this small. I don't think they're supposed to fit on your head.
+
+[21:44] Don't they just wear it like perched? They're not freaks. They're they're human beings who are taking tickets. They wear this as their as their hat. Does it fit around?
+
+[21:52] Yes, it's a hat. Like it oh my god. Oh my god. All right, anyway. So uh I guess we will tell you stories of Halloween, but I wish we could get a Halloween.
+
+[22:00] Please, someone call in with a Halloween question to 7184972128. All right. Okay. Hey, Nastasha and Dave. Thanks for answering our question on bagel cocktails.
+
+[22:11] Sam and I worked together, so it was just one group of people trying to work bake make bagel cocktails. Not that the entire world is suddenly interested in bagel cocktails, which would be quite strange. And we talked about sending in a question, uh, and we both ended up sending in the question. Anyway, we enjoy the show, and it's been hugely helpful in exploring new ideas and techniques. Best Johnny Hunter from the Underground Food Collective.
+
+[22:29] Well, that's great, but did the bagel cocktail work? Well, they sent that the day after. So they didn't have time to try it. Maybe. All right.
+
+[22:39] Okay, another follow-up. Hi, Nastasha and Dave. This is from Andrew. Does someone else write in this or is just Andrew wrote this in? Just Andrew.
+
+[22:45] Okay. Uh in episode 58. I like that. People know what episode it is, because I have no idea. It's all iTunes.
+
+[22:50] Yeah, iTunes. By the way, check this, check this out. iTunes, right? You apparently they will not tell you. I'm trying to figure out like whether or not anyone's listening to this program or not, right?
+
+[23:01] So I'm like, Jack, can you call up the iTunes people and figure out like whether anyone is downloading this? And iTunes won't give out that information. Isn't that crazy? Does that make any dang sense? No.
+
+[23:13] It makes no dang sense, right? Nothing. Makes no sense. Okay. In episode 58, they've wondered what t uh what temperature modernist cuisine calls for for cooking gooey duck uh low temperature.
+
+[23:21] And they list it as barely cooked. According to their best bet chart, they prefer 50 degrees Celsius for 30 minutes. Okay. Uh in that same episode, low temp snails are mentioned, and the same chart in Modernist Cuisine recommends 68 degrees C for five hours for a tender braised snail. I hope this helps, and thanks for the great show.
+
+[23:38] I've learned a great deal from listening. Thanks. Um Andrew, uh, before I get let me finish this before I finish out what Andrew said. Okay, I like I said last week, I think I've had uh m um Miravold and Young's and you know Maxim's and Grants, that's the whole crew there, or some of the whole crew there. I've had their gooey duck, gooey duck being the very manly clam, we'll say.
+
+[24:00] Is that fair? It's a very it's a very, very manly clam. Anyway, uh yes. Uh and so um it's the most suggestive food, I think that we'd like a penis. It would be a good time to press pause and Google gooey duck.
+
+[24:13] Yeah, spell geoduck. Pronounce gooey duck. Anywho, like the the good folks at the end Hoda had one on their show the other day. They did not. By the way, Nastasha just admits on the air that she is a regular I don't know where she finds the time, because you know, I don't know, but she watched the first 15 minutes.
+
+[24:32] What do you have against the rest of their program? It's crap. Wow. Calling out Hoda and Kathy Lee. They don't care what we think.
+
+[24:39] Anyway, uh, I used to watch Kathy Lee by back in the day when she was with the Regis. Regis and Kathy Lee. That's bringing it back. I used to be, man. The summer before I, the summer I graduated college, I did exactly three things.
+
+[24:52] I worked on my 1976 Pontiac Bonneville, right? Bondoing the quarter panel so that I could get it past inspection and making sure that it worked. Paid $400 for that car. Best $400 I ever spent. Car got exactly 10 miles to the gallon, whether it was on the city or the highway.
+
+[25:07] Like a couple of months into owning it, a James Brown tape got got jammed into the tape deck, and I couldn't ever get it out again. So like whenever the car was running, James Brown was playing. We eventually spray painted it gold and zip tied uh bull horns on the front of that thing. Thing was amazing. I love that car.
+
+[25:23] Really good pickup. Anyway, so I did that. Uh I deep fried uh potatoes and habanero chili rhinos because I was training myself for heat eating at the time. And I watched Regis and Kathy Lee. Uh oh, and ABC's daytime soaps.
+
+[25:38] And that was basically it. That was the whole summer. My wife was like, what the hell? I mean, she wasn't my wife at the time. She was my girlfriend at the time, but you know, she was almost like, man, what the hell's wrong with this guy?
+
+[25:46] What am I gotten into? Anyway. So uh their gooey duck is incredibly delicious. They cut it into like kind of long noodles and they cook it in a CVAP oven, I guess at 50 degrees C, which is just warming it, really, uh, for 30 minutes, and it's just fantastic. Very, very tender.
+
+[26:03] But they cook their snails at a much higher temperature. So 68. Once you go to 68, I mean, I don't see why you don't just take it all the way up to 85. I don't really see what the big many, man. I'd like to try it.
+
+[26:13] I'd like to try the difference between a 68 Celsius snail for five hours and just like a regular simmer in a bag, let's say, for, you know, for like two hours, see what the difference is. But if that's what they say works, I'm sure they tried it. I'm sure they had one of the 15 cooks that was working on that thing sitting there with like snail after snail for days figuring it out. Uh right? Mm-hmm.
+
+[26:32] Isn't that pathetic that we don't own a copy of Modernist Cuisine? Don't even. It's pathetic. It's pathetic. Okay.
+
+[26:38] Andrew is also wondering if uh we are still interested in some help uh for blog posts. And I would gladly lend my time and effort. Okay, here's the thing. I have come to a realization, people, and that is I have look, I have roughly 15 to 20 blog posts in my head that need to get written. Right?
+
+[26:57] Roughly 15 to 20. That I just don't have time. I'm just being pulled in all kinds of different directions. Uh I think at this point, if there are people out there, and they would have to go through Nastasha and give a sample of their writing or whatnot. But if there are other people who think that they want to write cooking issues style posts, meaning pedantic.
+
+[27:20] Uh, you know, but like, you know, kind of, you know, the style. If you've ever been on the blog, cookingissues.com, you know, you know the style. The style is what it is. It's cooking issue style stuff. I think at this point we could probably open it, open it up.
+
+[27:31] What do you think? This is the first I've heard of this. I know. So we would have guest writers? Yeah.
+
+[27:36] I mean, what do you think? I mean, now that we we we're gonna own it. That's it. Like we own it. We can do whatever we want.
+
+[27:42] The people who are writing for it no longer have to be working for the French culinary. That's true. I mean, uh I'm just considering between between me. Look, look, you want to does anyone care about this? Here's the post.
+
+[27:52] Here's the post that like the school gonna say. What are they gonna say? They don't read it anyway. Yeah. Alright.
+
+[27:57] So, like, look, I have a I have a bunch of clarification posts on uh Kisel Sol and Kaisan, which are two new clarification aids that I use. I have a way to clarify now uh things like uh lime juice to get pretty good yields without a centrifuge even. I've worked on it without a centrifuge. But grapefruit juice, it's no problem. I'll be very close to getting centrifugeless uh clarification for lime juice.
+
+[28:14] Gotta write about this. I have to write, there's a bunch of uh like book review things I have to write on um there's just a whole boatload of stuff on more infusion techniques I have to write about. I mean, there's just a bunch of stuff that I have to write about. I just don't have time. And you know what?
+
+[28:32] Maybe this. Maybe it's not even stuff that I necessarily want to write about. If someone else can come up with a cooking issue style post on their own thing, right? And by the way, I'm not if you have an idea and you can write it up in a cooking issues kind of a way, I'm not gonna take credit for your idea. I just don't feel that that's appropriate.
+
+[28:48] Do you? No, yeah, no, you're right. But yeah. It needs to be appropriate posts. I don't want some dummy writing something, you know.
+
+[28:57] Hey, Nastashia just called all of you guys dummies. No, but I I'm just imagining this stuff will get is she making the vegan face? She's making the vegan face. I'll tell you something. Like, uh, well, that's why we call you the hammer, Nastash.
+
+[29:08] Hey, you you know, you are the you're the hammer. You get to decide like whether or not this stuff. Okay, what I would do before you go bother writing it is I would propose to Nastasha what it is you think is an interesting. Look at Francis Lamb's writing. We really like him.
+
+[29:20] I love him. That style of writing. Francis Lamb, who now he's at guilt. He's at his new company Guilt. He's not at the he's not at Salon anymore.
+
+[29:27] Guilt the the blog. Oh. Anyway. Anyway, so I'm I'm I'm open, Andrew. So and we had someone else calling the same thing.
+
+[29:36] Okay. Uh another question. I just had a disaster occur, and I'm trying to backtrack my steps to where I screwed up. And this is coming in from Marty and Eagle Rock. What?
+
+[29:45] We have a caller? I'll come back. Oh, we lost him! We didn't, we got him. Hello, caller, you're on the air.
+
+[29:51] Hey, Dave. I just had a question. Um, so you know it's pumpkin carving season. Oh, Halloween question, yes. All right, go ahead.
+
+[29:58] Yeah, Halloween question. Anyway, um, I was just wondering if you had anything special that you do with all the inside of the nuts that you just scoop out and then you just kind of throw it away. Is there anything you could use that for, food-wise? I mean, other than the seeds? Yeah.
+
+[30:14] Or even the seeds, I don't know. Maybe you couldn't eat the seeds. Oh, the seeds. No, the seeds are incredibly delicious. Now, I wish I had the recipe for it.
+
+[30:20] Uh the my kid's babysitter makes the best pumpkin seeds I've ever had. We're just talking about this yesterday. And um, and you know, when she said she was gonna make pumpkin seeds, I was like, yeah, whatever. Come on, like you're gonna make a pumpkin seed that I think is delicious. Come on, what she doesn't normally cook that much, you know what I mean?
+
+[30:35] But her pumpkin teeds are freaking delicious. And she she removes the pulp from the pumpkin seeds, like washes them clean, and then squeezes uh uh lemon or lime juice over them, lets them sit for a little while, and then roasts them off in an oven with salt. And they are freaking good on a regular pumpkin. They're delicious. I've tried them with the kabocha squash, and the seeds are a little bit thicker, so they're not as good, but uh my but I'll try to get my babysitter's recipe for the seeds for later for next week, but they're they're fantastic.
+
+[31:03] Now, the pulp, I don't know whether you can use the pulp for anything. You ever use the pulp for anything? I mean, I'm sure you could cook it. I'm sure you could cook it and like make like a kind of a brothy thing out of it and then like press it out. The strings themselves, I don't know how well they break down.
+
+[31:18] But uh the seeds by far and away, you should never throw away those pumpkin seeds because they're incredibly delicious. All right. Well, thank you so much. Hey, thank you, and happy Halloween. Nice Halloween question.
+
+[31:29] I wish I had a spooky sound effect to play out. I know. You can you make one? I'll try. How's that?
+
+[31:36] It was good. Spooky? I just had a disaster occur. This is Marty and Eagle Rock. I just had a disaster occur and I'm trying to backtrack my steps to where I screwed up.
+
+[31:45] I love questions like this. Right? Because I like because I screw up all the time and I'm always having to backtrack. Blowtorch. I'm not a big fan.
+
+[32:05] He hasn't gotten to the mistake yet. But I'm not a big fan of uh blowtorches. Um unless look, I mean I'm assuming, Marty, that you maybe you have one of the Iwatanis, which is one of the little uh the little butane powered uh blowtorches. But I find that like the average torch that we use, which are the big old propane ones that are used for uh uh when you're you know, I don't know, what's the word I'm looking for? Doing plumbing, like a plumbing torch, right?
+
+[32:27] Uh they leave what I call a propane taste. And we talked about this recently on the air, a propane taste. And I think it has to do with the chemical that they add to the propane such that you can smell it when it's leaking, right? Because you don't want it to leak and explode and all that stuff. Uh and there are butane torches that don't have that smell because either they do a better job at combusting that smell or because there's less of the adulterance in the butane because you use the butane that you use for pipelighters and cigar lighters, and those customers are very sensitive about that smell, ruining their cigar, which is why old school suckers don't use lighters, they use matches to light their cigars, right?
+
+[33:01] Mm-hmm. Right? Okay, I don't smoke cigars, but I'm just making this up. Anyway, um I'm not a huge fan of torches in general, especially on fat, because fat tends to pick up that flavor more than uh lean parts, which I've done the test on. Uh I'm a bigger fan of just you know, putting a sear on that thing in a frying pan.
+
+[33:22] If you can't do that, fine, go ahead and blowtorch, it's gonna work. But that's just my thoughts on on blowtorching. I recently bought a blowtorch at the home depot that is a propane torch that has a much bigger flame on it. It's a real monster. It's called like a wide angle, like a wide flame.
+
+[33:37] Uh I'm in the process, another blog post. I'm in the process of working on it to see whether or not that thing has less of a torch taste, whether it has a better combustion, and also whether it can do a better job browning because it's not as much of a point source of heat. It's much wider. So I'm looking into that. Anyway, okay.
+
+[33:50] This wasn't the question. We're back on Marty's question now. Uh so he bagged them with olive oil, garlic, and fresh rosemary, and sealed them up with a home vacuum sealer. So far, so good. One I cooked for my parents uh two days at 130 degrees, uh, which is 54-4 or rare.
+
+[34:05] The other I tossed it in the freezer. The first one turned out great. I salted it and seared it off. Perfect meat. By the way, good job not salting it beforehand.
+
+[34:13] The recent blog post we had is that if you salt the meat beforehand, it's gonna taste cured, uh, especially on a long cook like that. It's not gonna taste like a fresh steak. So uh good job salting it afterwards and searing it off. Uh perfect meat. Good.
+
+[34:25] I'm glad. A couple of weeks later, I default defrosted the other hunk and tossed it into the souvi into the um uh immersion circulator into the or whatever he's using to cook at 130 degrees uh and cooked it for 36 hours. At 36 hours, he noticed an air pocket growing in the bag. He was worried there was some anaerobic nastiness happening, and sure enough, when I opened it up, it smelled like rancid zombie vomit. There's some Halloween for you.
+
+[34:48] Rancid zombie vomit. So, rancid zombie vomit. Zombie vomit zombie zombies eat only human brains, right? I don't know. Yeah, zom Jack, correct?
+
+[34:58] I'll have to do some fact checking on that first. Yeah, fact-check. I believe, well, maybe not exclusively, but their favorite thing to eat is Yeah, it seems like Google says they eat brains. Yeah, human brains. And then the reason they don't just eat other zombie brains, the reason they need human brains, is because the way you become a zombie is to have a zombie eat your brain.
+
+[35:14] Therefore, therefore, you don't have the brain to be eaten by the once you're a zombie, so they need to search out fresh humans for their brains. So see, this is why it works. Anyway. So Rancy's rancid zombie vomit would be uh like several day old human brains that have been digested by zombies is what we're talking about for a smell. So I eat bad.
+
+[35:34] Uh I dumped it and served leftover lasagna instead. That's a good call. Uh what uh question is where did I go wrong? Could I have killed guests had I served it? And what should I do differently next time?
+
+[35:44] Uh thanks, Marty. I don't think that uh look, obviously, you did the right thing. Anytime a bag uh blows up with air and you don't know why, you should throw it away. Uh because there's probably clearly bacteria growing in there that are c uh causing uh the bag to inflate. The fact that it smelled like rancid zombie vomit, right, and usually um it, and it does smell freaking awful because I've had it happen before.
+
+[36:10] Uh it's like um to me, it's not zombie vomit as much as it is kind of blue cheese mixed with zombie vomit, right? Kind of a blue cheese sauerkraut, socks, feet, zombie vomit mix, right? But it's um it's off putting. Let's put it that way. Uh certain, like uh, you know how some cheeses taste delicious if it's smell of death?
+
+[36:32] It's kind of like that, too. Anyway, uh, what's happening in there is it's not gonna kill anyone, most likely, but what that is uh is uh there are different lactic acid uh bacteria, lactobacilli, and other bacteria like that that are growing in that bag. And what happened is this you had a large piece of meat. Uh you might have had a uh portion of the interior of the meat that had gotten contaminated, like a knife or something got stuck into it, or it's just the stuff on the outside, and maybe the meat was resting against the bottom of the circulator, right? And you put something in frozen.
+
+[37:07] Or you you thawed it, and as you thaw it, let's say you thawed it before you put it in the circulator. Uh remember, freezing doesn't kill bacteria. It kills maybe a certain portion of them, but it's not uh a method to kill bacteria. So the bacteria are basically in suspended animation. It takes a long time to thaw out a piece of meat.
+
+[37:25] This is why they have you thaw meat in the refrigerator typically, even though it takes a whole hell of a long time, they don't want the meat to uh basically be growing bacteria while it's thawing out. The reason it takes a long time to thaw meat is because uh water is not nearly as good, like bound water inside of meat is not nearly as good a heat conductor as the ice. So once it starts thawing, it actually becomes kind of insulated relative to uh the part that's not thawed. And so it takes a lot longer to thaw something than it does to freeze it, which is why things take forever to thaw, and even though you've had that turkey in the fridge for you know three days, the inside of it's still frozen. You've noticed that, right, Nastasha?
+
+[38:02] Yeah. So uh one, you don't necessarily have to thaw it, you can thaw it in the circulator um at kind of low cooking temp in that in that area, right? And then you're killing bacteria right from the get go without growing some at the beginning. The other problem is if there's some bacteria in the middle of it and it takes hours for the uh meat to come up to temperature, and it can take hours and hours and hours, especially you're right at the line there. You're at 50, uh, like 130 is like 54 4.
+
+[38:33] If it's four degrees different, so if you have a big roast and it sits in the bottom of the pan and there's uh stuff underneath that's contaminated that hasn't been uh killed yet, and that part is even four degrees cooler because there's not water circulation underneath of it, you're gonna be growing bacteria in that, and then the gas will come up around, it'll form a bubble and it'll start floating, right? So I'd have to diagnose exactly where you went wrong. Um one, beware that at those close temperatures, you should what you should do is take the bag and probably simmer it like for like a minute just to kill everything that's on the surface layer, and then put it in, and you're not gonna have a problem. You're gonna want to make sure the bag is up off the bottom of your circulator tank so that there's not a place where you're like four degrees different. At four degrees different, you're growing evil bacteria in there, and you don't want that to happen.
+
+[39:19] Um another thing is making sure that you don't have any contamination on the inside, uh, making sure that your thaw times aren't too long. Uh, but you you you you definitely put yourself in a situation where a chunk of the meat was in the range probably between 40 and 50 Celsius, right? So below 100 and whatever it is, 20 and change, 20, you know, eight or six, seven, whatever it is, and change where bacteria are growing, and you grew lactic acid bacteria. You probably wouldn't have killed anyone, but I guarantee you the entire piece of meat was repulsive, so it's a good job to throw it away. Um right?
+
+[39:54] Mm-hmm. Yeah? Yeah. Alright. And uh, do you have anything else to say?
+
+[40:00] Um. No? You have nothing? No. Pubkiss?
+
+[40:04] All right. Well, uh, this has been the Halloween episode of Cooking Issues. We'll come back with all of our Halloween stories. Happy Halloween and happy trick-or-treating. Oh, you dead wrap.
+
+[40:25] Got me on this corner. And I don't know where I'm at. Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on HeritageRadio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store.
+
+[40:54] You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening. The following is a public service announcement from Food Karma. To kick off the New York City Meat Week in style, Meet with a Twist will bring together the best chefs and mixologists for a cocktail food pairing party on November 7th from 6 to 10 p.m. at City Winery.
+
+[41:19] Meet with a Twist features 10 cocktails paired with 10 chef selections highlighting local sustainably grown meats such as duck, lamb, chicken, pork, beef, bison, and ostrich. The party will launch a week's worth of events throughout the city that celebrate the slow food movement bringing sustainable meats to our tables. Again, that's November 7th from 6 to 10 p.m. at City Winery. Updates, tickets, and more information are available at MeatweekNYC.com.
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+[0:02] Broadcasting live from Roberta's in Bushwick, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you live every Tuesday from 12 to 1245 out of the back of Roberta's Pizzeria in Brooklyn, New York. Join today as always with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, but also special and unknown guest.
+
+[0:37] We didn't know he was going to be here. He was here for another radio show, which is prerecorded, which is why it's okay that we're going to steal him. But Alex Talbot, Alexander Talbot from Ideas and Food, the one and only is in the studio with us today. Hello, Alex. Hello, sir.
+
+[0:49] How are you? Doing well, doing well. So call in all of your questions. And if you're a chump sucker, if you don't call in and ask uh Alex your questions now, to uh 718 497 2128. That's 718 497 2128.
+
+[1:01] Nastash, how's your Halloween, by the way? Fine. Are you gonna ask people to to text us? She's by the way, folks, just so you know, Nastasha is typing on her computer and having a lot of people. I'm doing work for Dave, folks.
+
+[1:14] Yes, but it's during the radio show, Nastasha. Anyway. That's how busy you are. Are you gonna tell people to tweet if they're listening? So that we can keep track of how many listeners we actually have.
+
+[1:24] That's not gonna help, but like if I listened, I wouldn't even know how to tweet. It's not like I'm gonna set up Nastash is trying to figure out how many people. This is an ongoing thing. We're trying to figure out whether anyone's actually listening to this thing or not. Uh and uh, you know, we know a couple of you are because you're writing questions.
+
+[1:36] Thank you. Uh, but uh iTunes is making it impossible for us to um Or they can email me if they listen. If they listen. Yeah. Okay, you're gonna be swamped with all three emails.
+
+[1:47] Anyway, uh today's show is brought sponsored again by the Modernist Pantry, supplying innovative ingredients for the modern cook. Do you love to experiment with new cooking techniques and ingredients, but hate to overspend for pounds of supplies and only a few grams are needed per application? Modernist Pantry has a solution. They offer a wide range of modern ingredients and packages that make sense for the home cook or enthusiast, and most only cost around five bucks, saving you time, money, and storage space. Whether you're looking for hydrocolloids, pH buffers, or even meat glue, you'll find it at Modernist Pantry.
+
+[2:14] And if you need something that they don't carry, just ask. Chris Anderson is his team and his team will be happy to source it for you. With inexpensive shipping to any country in the world, and by the way, we uh asked last week about this, and someone from I believe New Zealand sent it and said it was like under ten bucks. It was like five or eight bucks or something to ship whatever it is they wanted to New Zealand. So we're like they got it in like seven days or something.
+
+[2:34] Yeah, so we're like, hmm, all right, nice. Mm-hmm. Nice. All right, so it's no, it's no BS, it's no horse hockey. They will ship it anywhere in the world at a uh at inexpensive uh cost.
+
+[2:42] Anyway, uh Modernist Pantry is your one-stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients. Modernist Pantry now carries iota kappa and lambda. Lambda carragen. What the heck do you use lambda carragina for? You ever use that, Alex?
+
+[2:52] Chocolate milk. Yep. I mean, like, do you find you need to stabilize uh chocolate milk often for yourself? Not really. We actually pass over it all the time.
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+[3:00] We uh just use a lot of chocolate. Yeah. And it's that's it. In other words, like from a cook's perspective, why would you want to use a lam lambda caragina? Just because you're cool.
+
+[3:10] So, folks, carragenin, uh, seaweed derivatives, and uh the deal is is that uh there's a bunch of different kinds. There's uh there's iota, kappa, and lambda are the three main different kinds of carrageenans, and they differ based on um I believe it's the sulfate bridges along the backbone, how they work. Uh Kappa caragina is the one that's closest to agar and its behavior, it's very brittle. Iota is very, very stretchy and elastic. And lambda is kind of non-gelling, uh, or we think of it as non-gelling, but it's used as a as an embodying agent in chocolate milk.
+
+[3:42] Uh no carrageenan mix is pure there because they're natural products. So, you know, kappa will have a bit of the other two and and vice versa. But things are primarily they they're sold as primarily iota, kappa, and lambda. Uh I know many chefs excuse me, chefs who use iota and kappa, but I don't know any chefs that use uh lambda, at least not that they've told me. Anyway, fans of cooking issues that place an order of $35 or more before next week's show will get a free package of iota carrageenin.
+
+[4:08] Simply use the promo code CI as in cooking issues 60 when placing your order online at modernistpantry.com. Visit modernistpantry.com today for all of your modernist cooking needs. I mean iota mainly puddings, right? I mean it is, yeah, I mean that's it. It's also the one of the only hydrocolloids that's uh self-healing.
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+[4:25] Oh, right, true. So uh there's basically when you break a uh hydrocolloid by shearing it, they it never again comes back together. It's sheer irreversible when you break the gelatin. In uh iota, they will actually the gel will will heat up. Now if you are if you use iota to do a hard like when I say a hard gel, one that doesn't kind of break easily like a pudding, it's kind of a weird texture.
+
+[4:46] It is what's that uh that stuff that you used to get on uh shoot. I used to buy it as a kid. Uh rubber cement? It's like rubber cells. But it's but softer.
+
+[4:55] But softer. But no, there's shoot. There was a candy of sorts. You know what it's kind of like is you know those stretchy hands that you buy and you slap them across the room, you like fling them across the room and they stretch out and stick to the wall. And then snap back and hit you in the face.
+
+[5:07] Yeah, yeah. It's kind of like that, but without the sticking and hitting you back in the face thing. But most people don't use iota in levels that produce that kind of behavior. They're using it in kind of pudding levels, and then you can you can put the pudding into another container like a ramicin or something like that, and then you know. Yeah, I mean it it it it benefits from that little bit of kappa to give it just a touch of structure so that you know when you cut your spoon through it, you can actually see it as opposed to just you know the blob which goes back on itself.
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+[5:39] Right. And the reason, by the way, that uh people use carrageenans in milk-based uh things is because there's a synergism between milk and carrageenin. So if you would normally to get you have to use depending on the actual one you use, but it's something on the order of one-fifth of the amount of carrageenin that you would have to use uh to thicken a milk-based system as you would to thicken a water-based system with the same carrageenin. So uh you can use very, very small amounts. Industrially, this is good because it means that you're using less product, which saves you money.
+
+[6:13] Uh if from a cooking perspective, the less of a thickening agent you have to use, the less chance you have, the less um opportunity there is for that ingredient to alter mar or mask the flavor that you're dealing with. Certainly uh I mean there's a couple other things we talk about a lot, but it it's the you want the you want to use the least amount of anything possible, be it salt or carrageenin or sugar, so to get the desired results. Uh you can also have the the calcium to uh because it it's iota is is calcium reactant whereas kappa is potassium. So you can if with if you don't have a lot of milk, just add some calcium. But you know what, you know what I never know, I never know it depends on who gives you the uh the the product, but I know like certain of the kappas are pre-formulated with the potassium salts in it.
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+[7:00] It all depends. A lot of TIC gum stuff is is basically idiot-proofed. Right. It's by the way, folks, this is why this is w I mean like I love what Martin Larish from Chimelus has done for the world by creating his hydrocolides recipe Index. And by the way, he's getting better about going back and and a lot of your recipes are in there.
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+[7:14] A lot of our yeah. Uh but the um the one thing he did was remove a lot of the brand names. And what I always tell people is that if you are going to specify a recipe, you should always specify the brand that you use. Because if you just say Kappa Caragine, and first of all, there could be anything natural like this, like could come in a wide variety of of chain lengths, for instance. There's wide variety of properties.
+
+[7:42] But also could or could not have uh the setting salts added to them already. I mean it's right. I mean, if you look at a lot of CP Celco stuff, they've got CP Celco different uh variation, but gel in. They've got JJ, which already has sodium citrate in it, which is a squestrant, which it allows it to be uh easier for for gelling and but whole other ball game. Right.
+
+[8:01] So always say the brand you're using. Anyway, we have a caller, caller, you're on the air. Dave. Howdy. This is Mike, I'm uh commercial brewer, and uh interested in possibly doing some molecular stuff with beer.
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+[8:14] And I'm wondering uh what you think. I'm thinking maybe like you know, doing a black and tan, but have one beer have maybe some some uh alginate in it, so when the black, you know, it'd be more like a lava lamp than uh a black uh traditional black and tan, or maybe uh making some little alginate balls with uh something sweet to go in, maybe a sour beer so they'd float around. What do you think about that? Uh you mean as a as a commercial thing? Uh yeah, just as a way to to serve beer, you know, in uh you know, just uh in a fun way, working the molecular kind of stuff into certain into beer.
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+[8:50] Do you think you could have one beer that had something in it that would, you know, do more like a lava lamp in a glass or uh I mean the way lava lamps work they um the way lava lamps work is is basically it's an oil and water phenomenon, right? So you t you're taking you taking two emissive uh like liquids, basically one's a solid, it's a wax really, and you're heating it and when it heats it floats up and then cools and goes down. That's why it looks that it looks so awesome. I mean the real question with a beer is how would you get the how would you get the two beers to be to not mix unless you had an envelope around them. So so then that comes to your second question is could you do something with alginate?
+
+[9:29] And the problem with alginate, there's a couple problems I have with alginate. One, I don't think it tastes good. It doesn't taste good. It makes things taste less than the original. Yes.
+
+[9:38] You might as well not use it. It's a flavor thief. It that that I'm gonna steal that for you. I'm gonna write it down and I it's now stolen. So there you go.
+
+[9:44] Still the other problem from a commercial standpoint, and people have made obvious obviously people make um balls of things. So the famous the famous ball commercial ball drink is orbits, right? Orbits was gel an based. Now the problem with orbits was the the the beads were solid. They weren't liquid.
+
+[10:03] It's very hard to do a liquid based thing in a commercial way that's gonna last a a long time. By the way we're in a construction zone if you hear that hammering in the ball. That is actually Dave building a new road. Yeah exactly so so um so but you're gonna have problems with color stability in in these situations. So most gel systems are somewhat porous and so over a fairly short period of time you're gonna get color bleaching out.
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+[10:28] Now the the guys who do this professionally with orbits took care of this by having uh the basically the the relative levels of that things are going to change the osmotic balance of the liquids very, very, very close to identical, so that they got very little color bleed over time. But you're gonna have huge problem in a black and tan kind of a situation keeping the tan and the black portions together. Although it's really kind of like brown and light brown, it's not really black and tan and brown. Kind of coffee. Yeah.
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+[10:55] So you could mean like you could look, it's obvious you could do here's something you could another problem is is if the center liquid is carbonated, right? You're gonna have problems with air pockets developing on the inside of your uh membrane uh shell. Right. Which uh you know I've I've done it with carbonated liquids, and you definitely get an air pocket. And some people or not an air pocket, a carbon dioxide pocket.
+
+[11:16] And some people use this like on purpose, they do this on purpose, but um but it's a problem from a from a commercial standpoint. So you'd have to probably move to a still-based inner liquid. And then I would do the reverse, I would do a reverse verification, and you can use something nicer, you could do pectin, which is like pretty nice texture. You would basically uh uh form your liquid, uh freeze it in a larger format, so you get a more lava lampy thing, and then you'd set it uh uh uh uh you'd set like an envelope of pectin around it. You could use alginate as a first test because it's a lot easier.
+
+[11:50] Gel N actually is our go-to for for that for for all encapsulation. All right, you have to use deionized water and like go crazy, otherwise you sequestrants. Well, you see, sequester the hell out of it. Yeah, so in uh we actually talk about it in our book. There's a good plug for our book, ideas and food.
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+[12:04] There you go, buy it. Um but we use uh roughly 0.5% low acyl gel in and we use 0.05% uh sodium hexametophosphate in in in a water bath. Boom, done. And then how's your water in your area though? It's fine, but we we've we've gone to uh Plano, Texas and done it, and uh when we did it without adding the little uh sodium hexametophosphate, we had a disaster.
+
+[12:25] Right. Because they're they've got crazy calcium water, but uh with the sequestron in there, and then we just drop everything into it and you get a beautiful skin. And once you get good with it, you can actually lower the amount of gel an in there to point three percent and really get a very self uh silky sexy uh skin.5 of gel an, low acyl gel in is equivalent to about 0.8.9% agon. Yes, but with the and also with the sequestron in there, it actually tenderizes. Softens a little bit.
+
+[12:51] It softens it, so it it's the uh a really unique gel uh as an exterior skin. So what I would do is if you have a vacuum machine, I would take your black, whatever you're gonna use is like your stout situation there, and I would decarbonate it in a vacuum machine. Then I would uh then I would um add some calcium to it, because I don't know what the calcium level in beer is, use gluconate, not uh not chloride because it's horrible. And uh then uh do what Alex suggests, which is get low acyl gel an uh make a solution of that with a sequestering sodium hexametophosphi uh phosphate aka shimp, which you can get probably at modernist pantry, although I haven't used them. Have you used them ever modernist pantry?
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+[13:32] I haven't though uh I think via Twitter we've been referenced to them and and shot them. They're right here in Brooklyn, right? I have no idea where they are. I think so. And if not, I'm I'm promoting the wrong people.
+
+[13:40] Anyway, so but the uh do that and then you might get an interesting effect, lava lamp like where the carbonation, if you use a higher carbonated liquid, like instead of what you would normally use, like an IPA or something like that, and it might float the ball up to the top. Yeah, and if you used actu uh cap no iota carrogenin, really low low amount for your encapsulation, the the product, it'll actually give you that lava like texture as well. Well, go check out the book because I'm sure this is in the book. Ideas and food, the book. Perfect.
+
+[14:05] All right. Thanks for calling calling. We have another caller, caller, you're on the air. Hi. Um, this question is for Dave and Alex, obviously.
+
+[14:13] Um, I was wondering what do you what do you guys think is the best way to cook a leg of lamb? Cook what I couldn't hear you. A leg of lamb? What is the best way to cook a leg of lamb, according to you guys? What kind of equipment do you have?
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+[14:28] Um, very basic. I'm not extremely experienced. Alright, then the best uh then clearly the best way if you don't have the equipment to do it properly is to bone it out, roll it flat, remove certain parts of the muscles that aren't going to cook properly, and then quickly grill it, wouldn't you say or no? I'd grill it, I give it a I'd give it a yogurt marinade too, just to get the flavor. Really tenderized it?
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+[14:48] Tenderize it and give it a quick grill, just break it into pieces. And and you can try and seam it out, but it sounds like that might be a a bit of a stretch, so just cut it into smaller pieces. Or get the butcher to seam it out for you. Like, in other words, like I you definitely want that thing to get flat. Leg of lamb, if you cook it whole, is gonna be tough and overcooked with any kind of traditional cooking technique.
+
+[15:07] I've never had one that was really done properly. And there are people who like raw blue lamb in the middle, but they're not that many because the texture isn't necessarily good, right? I I I'm not a blue lamb guy. I actually like it medium rare, even even medium, is it's it kind of silkens out a little bit more. Right, so but I would definitely get it as flat as possible and and and as Alex said, break it into into pieces and then and then cook it that way.
+
+[15:33] Unless do you have a need to serve it whole, or you have some sort of like primal cuts dinner that you're gonna be doing? No, no. I I've been served it whole before and it was okay. I've had a lot of people who have grilled it whole, but um, if that's not the best way to do it, then doesn't really bother me. Look at or slow roast it.
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+[15:50] Yeah, maybe look whole grilling gives you some things that you're not gonna get any other way. For instance, we all enjoy certain overcooked pieces of meat that are crunchy and kind of burnt and delicious on the edges of of things, right? It just it just renders uh, in my opinion, like those whole cut things, unless you're very good at it and they have a two-part flame and you're cooking it over a high and then you move it to lower or vice versa, however you believe, or slow roasting. Uh y it's very easy to get a large portion of the meat that's kind of dry and overcooked, especially the non-fatty areas. Fatty areas can take a lot more abuse because fat is delicious when it's high cooked.
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+[16:28] Um the other problem with with the with the leg, uh like is the leg is composed of a bunch of different muscles and they don't all operate, they don't all when I say operate, cook the same way. And so um this is my problem with you know, there's certain people who are very famous and whose product is good, I've had it, who are big big believers in what's called whole hog cookery when it comes to cooking pigs. I am not a believer in this. I in other words, uh like I've done certain tests to try and cook whole animals properly, but in general, unless you are willing to go through Herculean efforts to try and have all muscles cook uh when they're still attached to the animal, different muscles want to be cooked differently. That's just the way it works.
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+[17:05] Right, the whole hog, aren't they all it's all chopped up together at the end, isn't it? Yes. And that's how they cover up the fact that the loin doesn't taste good. So so wait, so it's all it's whole hog, but we're gonna put it all together. So it's it's it's really blended hog.
+
+[17:17] It's real yeah, it really is blended hog. It's not whole hog. It would be much better if they took it into pieces and cooked each piece the way they wanted to, then chopped it up and put it back together again. So whole hog's a farce. Uh, but not in a good not like a stuffing way.
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+[17:28] Not like in a stuffing way, but more as in like a false false uh pretense. Uh yeah, I just don't think it's I don't think it's a goal we should aspire to. I don't think it's I you know, and look, uh I love Ed Mitchell. Do you know what I mean? Like but my How can you not love Ed Mitchell?
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+[17:40] I love Ed Mitchell, but I just don't necessarily see why I should aspire to attempt to create something that's good by and it is good, but I just don't see why I would attempt to create something that's good that way by doing something that's against what the meat wants to do, which is the loin wants to be cooked for not a long time. And the and the and the you know, the the cuts that have a lot of connective tissue want to be cooked for a longer time. And then mix them together if you want, crisp up the skin, mix them together. So basically keep cook each part separately and then bring it together at the end. I'm a huge believer in cooking each piece of meat the way it wants to be cooked.
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+[18:12] Do you have a conversation with the meat first? Are you like a meat whisper? I do. I get up, I put my ear next to it. Are we helping all the way by with your lamb?
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+[18:20] Another collar. Anyway, hopefully this helps with your lamb. I think you're good. Thank you. All right, call her.
+
+[18:25] You're on the air. Oh, they dropped off. Oh, they dropped. We missed them. Maybe we may maybe we talk that's our job, Nastasha.
+
+[18:31] See, this is like classic Nastasha. Nastasha's like, you're answering this person's question. So the next person dropped off. There is no caller. I was saying go to break.
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+[18:39] Oh, go to break. See, Nastasha? Your your viciousness is incorrect. This is why we call her the hammer, folks, just because she is vicious. Anyway, uh calling all your questions too.
+
+[18:48] 718497-2128. 718497-2128. Sugar Power coming back. You know that I love you. I came up myself.
+
+[19:09] I love you when nobody else. Come in go. Come in, go. And I just did it thousand times. That's a whole other thing.
+
+[20:09] And welcome back to Cooking Issues, Nastasha. How's your Halloween? What were you? 70s person. Yeah, you were supposed to be a cop, weren't you?
+
+[20:16] Or a donut? Mark had to work. Yeah, her boyfriend had to work. That's too bad. So you were a 70s woman, but I thought you hated like it was I wasn't sexy at all.
+
+[20:25] Nastasha, Nastasha, if she was wearing the sexiest outfit in the world, would put a pair of uh long Johns with elephants on underneath it to de sexy. This is this is her MO, folks. Happy Halloween. Oh, by the way, I brought you some Sour Patch kids because if you ever want Nastasha to like you and you think she's gonna hate you, which odds are she will if she meets you. You said if I were a fish, if you were fishing for me.
+
+[20:45] Yeah, but Sour Patch, so I have some for her for tonight. What about what about you, Alex? How was your Halloween? It was good. It was my daughter's first real big uh Halloween.
+
+[20:52] Yeah, how old is she now? She's gonna be three in December. Nice, and what was she? She was a cupcake princess, of course. Really?
+
+[20:58] But you you don't like cupcakes, do you? I can eat a cupcake. Really? Yeah, I'll th I'll I'll throw I'll throw down the the banter against cupcakes, but uh long and short, is I can choke a cupcake down really quickly. Well, because it's small.
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+[21:09] It's small, it's edible. If it's if it's done right, it's good, but more often than a lot, cupcakes have a lot of tunneling at them. It it well uh have a lot of what? Tunneling. The uh they're they're they're just mixed improperly and so you they have air tunnels in that's not my problem.
+
+[21:20] My problem is the incorrect icing to volume ratio. Uh first of all, I like cake. I don't like cake. Cake is just delicious. Ah, see, I like icing.
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+[21:26] See, you'd get along with Aki. Aki likes cake. Or actually you wouldn't get along with her because she you guys would fight over the cake and I could just eat all the icing. Yeah, see uh what I like is like a glaze icing. Eh, that's weak.
+
+[21:39] Uh cupcakes. I d I you know what? You know, okay, we can all agree on this. Anyone that makes a miniature cupcake should be wiped off the face of the earth. Agreed.
+
+[21:47] Okay. Except you know what's kind of like a miniature cupcake, but are actually good, but only if they're super fresh as Madeleine's. But they're not iced. They're not iced. They're cake.
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+[21:57] They're cake. But they they're uh a size that's bad. They're a surface to volume ratio that's bad for a cakey thing. Sure, they stale quickly. Yeah, they're awful when they're old.
+
+[22:05] Yeah, I mean they're awful like 30 seconds out of the oven. Yeah, and why here's another question. Do I like black and white cookies only because I grew up eating them, or is it are they actually delicious? There's a few good ones out there, but there's there's a quest form. Aki has that same quest.
+
+[22:19] Because they're basically a semi-staled cake in a cookie form with icing on top, a glaze icing, I might add. And you know, I grew up, because I grew up around New York loving the hell out of them. And it's a better ratio, and if you think about it, it's actually taking the top off of a cupcake and inverting it and putting the glaze on the inside. Yeah, but it's a it's a good tasting icing, not a crap tasting icing. It's glaze.
+
+[22:39] Well, depends where you go. And mo and most actual black and white glazes are well. Look, if you hand me a black and white cookie that looks like it's got icing on the top that was knifed on and not poured and let to set, I will stab you in the eye with your icing knife, right or no? You will. Yeah, I mean it's not a black and white at that point.
+
+[22:57] No, it's something frosted. It's an abomination. It's not iced, it's frosted. Right. Okay.
+
+[23:03] It's fair. Alright. So we're gonna have to go to some of the uh oh, by the way, calling your questions. Two 7184972128. That's 7184972128.
+
+[23:11] I'm doing pretty well considering getting over a thing, right? Yeah. Anyway. Did you memorize that? I finally memorized it.
+
+[23:16] Wow. That's good, right? It's not on my it's not on my sheet like I normally used to have it. Okay. Uh three questions came in from Andrew.
+
+[23:23] One, how can we know umami exists? Do we have taste receptors committed uh to these umami specific amino acids? Yes. Yes. Yeah.
+
+[23:32] The research was done in uh the early 2000s, like 2000, 2001, 2002. We have taste receptors for umami. It's no longer a question, it's fat. And also it it's also exciting, yeah. I mean, you can you can trigger those umami receptors on the uh on your palate.
+
+[23:46] Yeah, and they've they've looked at it, you know, uh, you know, yeah, crap's real, real deal homie. Okay. Two, if you could design invent a machine without monetary constraint to aid in cookery or cocktail making to create a dish drink method wildly amazing, what would it be? A robot version of myself. No, I'm kidding.
+
+[24:03] No, uh, what would you do, Alex? Shoot. I'm not sure. Uh I'd need a lot more people, like me, a lot more people that you don't have to tell what you want. It's not that I'm particularly good or bad at anything.
+
+[24:16] It's say it's the hardest part when you're cooking anything is is conveying your intentions, your intent. Right? Not intentions, your intent. The hardest when you're talking to someone, you're like, do it like I want it to get done, and then it doesn't get done what you like the way you want it. So like a really good chef, what they can really do is get is besides cooking themselves, is they can get other people to cook things the way they want them done, right?
+
+[24:38] So it's very, very hard to to kind of tell someone what you want them to do. So like you need a translator. You you need we need to build a translator. Yeah, something that I could just walk up to somebody and they would know what it is I wanted them to do. Or just speak into a box and then it it tells other people so that it just you don't have to do it.
+
+[24:53] You just you speak into it and say, all right, I want X, Y, or Z, and everyone else finally understands it. Yeah, you know what's even rarer and more awesome is when you say something and someone comes back with something better than your intent. That happens more often, not in my world. But uh you have any we'll we'll keep that one in hold. We'll think about that for the rest of the show.
+
+[25:12] Any machines that we want that we that are just cost. I mean, there are things I mean, obviously, like I'd love there's uh I want a twin screw extr uh twin screw uh extruder, right? I don't own one because they're fantastically expensive, but it's a machine that already exists. Sure. You know, I want there's a bunch of things I I would like a supercritical CO2 extractor.
+
+[25:30] They're just fabulously expensive. I would like a spray drying column as tall as uh you know as uh you know a a barn, but taller even. And it's it's a little maybe a little hard to store. Yeah. Well, that's the thing, like no monetary constraint.
+
+[25:44] But if design invent a machine, I don't have any things that I want to invent that are I'm not doing as a result of monetary constraints, more time constraints than the fact that it's hard for me to and plus David Chang will uh shoot over here with uh needles and stick them in my eyes if I tell you what we're working on. That may happen. Yeah, it might happen anyway. Anyway, three, can a food saver adequately compress watermelon for dishes like Keller's melon, mango, steak, tartar? Are food savers a wash, or do they have good use?
+
+[26:10] No, they cannot, in my opinion, and Alex might be different, uh his opinion might be different from mine. I do not believe a food saver adequately uh has enough of a vacuum to do a good job at uh at crushing uh watermelon, uh the air sacks and watermelon. What do you think? Not in the least. I I mean what what we're doing is and I think that's the I think the it one of the big issues is is the term compression is is partially mis misguiding, right?
+
+[26:33] I mean we're we're not compressing per se, but we're removing air. Right. So if you don't remove the air, ain't nothing gonna happen. You need a you need a good, good vacuum. Now, the cheapest way to get a good vacuum, which because you I'm assuming you're not gonna go buy a couple thousand dollar vacuum machine, and although I want you to, I don't think you will.
+
+[26:50] I haven't because my wife would kill me if I did that. Uh and you haven't built it yet? Well, okay, not one with a sealer, but what I have done that you can do fairly cheaply is buy a refrigerate a refrigeration vacuum online for like a hundred bucks. You can get uh uh you know an oil seal rotary vein vacuum pump that's used to evacuate uh compressors for refrigeration. Since they need to make a whole boatload of these and people don't like think they're fancy, they don't cost very much.
+
+[27:16] You can get them for like a hundred bucks. Where? Uh eBay. Yeah, get like the good ones like Robinair is a good brand. Uh there's a couple of good brands out there.
+
+[27:24] Some cost more, there's some cheaper ones that are knockoffs. They can they can without breaking a sweat achieve uh below 10 millibar of vacuum. Which is not horrible at all. Yeah, great. I use one in my roto vap, for instance.
+
+[27:35] One I have a better one that can get down to like four millibar. But so the so and they're pretty fast, which is awesome. So then you uh basically you hook a hose, like a rubber hose, uh to and you get a piece of plexiglass at the at your local like Home Depot style place with a rubber seal, stick it on a round bain marie, don't stick it on a a square one because you will crush it. Uh and uh you have a vacuum compression system all in for like a hundred and fifty, hundred and fifty bucks in that range. Yeah.
+
+[28:03] Works. Do it. Um do they have a good use food savers? Sure. They're a good way to package food for low temperature cooking at home.
+
+[28:11] I prefer Ziplocks. Um they're uh relatively okay for things like coffee. Yeah. Right. I mean, we used a f you know, before we knew any better, and before we we we could achieve more, we I mean we used a food saver for a year when we were out in Colorado, you know, messing with this stuff or out in up in Maine.
+
+[28:28] We we used a food saver. That was that's what we could afford. Yeah, I mean, look, it does a decent job of packaging things, and the food saver, if you buy the roll bags, I mean like the one thing I always used it for was like very, very long striped bass because there's no um there's no maximum length on a food saver bag as long as it's less than a roll. Right. And so, you know, I would bag like you know 36, 40 inch stripers in the 10 inch wide bags.
+
+[28:49] You jam them in. If you tried to pull it out, the fins would rip the bags, but you know, you put them in and you could bag whole fish that way. You could do a school of fish, actually. Yeah, it's in a row. In a row.
+
+[28:59] In a row in a ring. Uh huh. Anyway, so they have a use. I like them. I mean, they're they they are it's you know, it's my first vacuum patch packaging uh system.
+
+[29:06] They're also really good at resealing a bag of chips. Yeah, I have not used it for that. Yeah. But I and it's actually interesting. You can use this the seal bar just for itself if you want to just start sealing things.
+
+[29:15] Yeah, which you should. I mean, I have a sealer now at home, just a sealer because it's faster. Okay. Yeah. Um I use a sealer all the time for potato chips.
+
+[29:23] Okay. Uh oh, and PS, congratulations on the book deal. Thank you very much. I didn't we didn't leak that by the way. That was leaked by the publisher.
+
+[29:30] The fact that I have a uh book deal. One on cocktails and one on God knows what. Okay. Uh another umami style question from Jason. Dave, traditionally, before uh combo is used in stocks, we are told to wipe it with a wet cloth.
+
+[29:42] Doing so removes a great deal of white powder found on the surface of the combu sheet, which I understand are glutamate crystals. Since combu is generally used for its high concentration of glutamates, why would I want to wipe the surface uh glutaminate crystals off or glu glutamate crystals off before using it? Seems counterproductive. Man, I agree. I don't wipe, I don't I don't wipe combo.
+
+[29:59] We have we have a collar? Um I agree, I don't wipe it. I'll take the collar and then we'll go back to it. Collar, you're on the air. Hey, how you doing?
+
+[30:06] Doing all right, how you doing? This is Amy in California. Howdy. Uh not last week, but the week before you posed the question about using the was it the nitrates and the nitrites for uh clean tapes. Uh for and right.
+
+[30:26] Yeah. Do you have you have experience in this? Uh no. I do, however, have uh a very noticeable sensitivity to nitrates. And if killing them that way would introduce that into the meat, it would mean that not only can I not have preserved meat, I wouldn't be able to have pork at all.
+
+[30:48] Huh. Well, let me see. It's uh it's it's a I hadn't thought of that. Uh it's an interesting question. So, Alex, I don't know, like uh so the the there's some research where there's some research where they basically, in order to kill f uh feral hogs in, I believe it was Australia, New Zealand, I have to go back and look at it, they would put um tablets of uh nitr nitrites and nitrates uh around the pigs would eat it.
+
+[31:11] They don't have the ability uh in general to uh uh reduce the the stuff back, and so they basically um they they lose their ability to convert oxy you know their hemoglobin back into oxygenated hemoglobin and they die. So uh but they do it in a way that doesn't make them uh hyper excited. They don't you know they don't go crazy. They don't they they don't feel like they're being killed. They just pass out.
+
+[31:33] Okay. Okay, so the question is, can this be used for uh a humane um killing method? Right? So and then now the question is is well, there are people, and I hadn't thought about this, so thanks so much for calling in. There are people who are uh sensitive to to this, uh sensitive to nitrites and can't have it in cured meats.
+
+[31:51] Uh and the question is is would it, if it's used as an anesthetic, would it also have an elevated um level in the meat? Uh I don't know. That's a very good question. That's an excellent question. Um, it's kind of like uh I mean the the the real question I'd have is what are the levels?
+
+[32:09] You know what I mean? So first of all, like what levels do you think you're sensitive to? Um I don't know, but more than one slice of ham. Right. And for the week following, I have difficulty moving my fingers and toes.
+
+[32:27] It's like I've rented arthritis a week. Is it similar to like what like is do you become like cyanonic? Do you go like does it like do you have the like do you go blue or no? Like I I have no idea. I haven't researched it all.
+
+[32:38] Actually, my I I get I get swelling in my extremities. So my hands and my feet get swollen and my joints hurt to move. Right. Well, I again I I don't know anything about this because I haven't researched it. Um but but the and I and I haven't found anything about it.
+
+[32:57] It's just experimental with me. I I had weird symptoms, and one of the things that I found out when I took it out of my diet was that you know, if you know I can't I can't have bacon for breakfast anymore. And it runs in my family. My mother had problems with it, my sister has problems with it. I think my brother's in denial.
+
+[33:18] Well, uh the the okay, so it it's it's interesting. I mean, I I'm definitely gonna look into it just because that's the kind of thing I I like to look into. But um the the the thing is, look, there's a certain amount of small amount of baseline uh nitrates in and nitrites in in things that we consume. That's why they can reduce like a billion pounds of celery down to a powder and use it to fall false cure bacon. Or it's real cure, falsely say that they haven't added nitrates to it.
+
+[33:43] So there's gotta be some small level that you're okay with and it's exceeded in whatever you're eating in form of ham. So the real question is is what is the increase in muscle muscle content of nitrate in a pig that's been slaughtered this way? I don't know. We'd have to check it out. Research.
+
+[33:58] Yeah, research. Research definitely needs to be done. Someone in the U.S. needs to think it's an interesting problem who has a livestock research. And wants to dive into this one.
+
+[34:07] And wants to dive into this one. But uh thanks for bringing that to my attention. We'll definitely look into it. Okay. Thanks very much.
+
+[34:12] Um I ask you one other favor? Sure. Um, with Thanksgiving coming up, what veggies would you recommend for low temperature civide? Oh, Alex, you're a good one. I'm trying to think how how many different things I could have all set to finish, just pull out and go.
+
+[34:33] You can have as many. I was like, have the potatoes in there, pull them out, mash them, and they're good. Yeah, well, you should pre-mash. You should cook a pot I would cook a potato basically traditionally, mash it, put it in a bag, and then reheat it. Smush it flat and reheat it.
+
+[34:50] Carrots are traditionally genius in a bag and good at uh Thanksgiving sweet potatoes. Brussels, I mean, everything is at Thanksgiving is overcooked anyway. So you I mean she's trying not to overcook it, Alex. But that's the point. But the point of Good Thanksgiving decides are that they're overcooked.
+
+[35:05] Aw, Jesus. I mean, come on, the br the Brussels sprout, they're I mean, they're they're they're caramelized, they're roasted, I mean, they're they're tender, they're just at overcooked. I mean, everything is controlled overcooked. Are you a fan of the a super overcooked broccoli that Steingarden likes, the hour and a half long cooked broccoli? I like tender broccoli, but I don't like brown broccoli.
+
+[35:23] All right. But anyway, I would do any of those, any of those are good. Remember, if you're gonna cook a vegetable in the bag and you're not adding a lot of liquid to the bag as a flavoring, or even if you're adding a liquid like oil instead of water, it takes a lot longer to cook something in the bag than it would in because there's not as much available water. So it's gonna take more on the order of what it would take to roast that vegetable in terms of time. And you also want, I mean, if you cook it at at you know lower than what, 85, it's not cooking.
+
+[35:50] Yeah, yeah, no. You could cook something at 70 for like four weeks and it's still gonna be crunchy. It changes its taste. Certainly, but it it that texture is still just gnawable. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[36:01] Definitely true. Uh we used to do that demo. It's fun. People get freaked out. You just leave it there all week.
+
+[36:07] Pull it out. All right. So back to the combu here. I've never wiped the combu off. I don't wipe the combo.
+
+[36:12] I which I mean it I I'm looking for that. I mean, that's why that's why we're using it. Right. Now it's somewhere in the back of my head, even though I reread my McGee and he said that it is actually that is what the crystals are on the surface. I have a little nagging thing in the back of my head that says that it's that current research says it's something else.
+
+[36:27] But even so, I just don't wipe the dang things off. All right. Second question. How uh from uh Andrew, uh, how often should water in a low temperature uh from Jason rather? How often should water in a low temperature cooker circulator be changed?
+
+[36:39] Well, that depends on how dirty it is. I mean, you're keeping it hopefully at a temperature where bacteria are continually being killed. Um but that said, I usually dump it out at the end of a service or at the end of a cook and then and then put in fresh. You you need to change the water. Okay.
+
+[36:54] If if you cook something in in the bag, there there is still aroma transfer. Yes, that's true. And and so unless you want to have you know but what kind of bag but look honestly, like I used to test bags based on their aroma transfer characteristics, and some are bad, but some are pretty some are pretty there are waters where you can have that's why people cook multiple things in the same water, do rethum in the same water. You think it's bad practice? I don't think it's a bad practice, but I I I mean if you I would change your water daily.
+
+[37:22] Especially uh in I mean if you're doing like one thing, then uh you're fine. But if if you mean if you're churning through a lot of stuff at restaurants. In a home situation, after I'm done cooking, I dump the water out. Right. You don't want to have standing water lying around.
+
+[37:35] Not so much. Yeah. It's not that much water anyway. No. So I mean sometimes it can be a pain in the butt if you know you're gonna cook the next day, I'm not changing the water because I'm gonna turn it on again the next one.
+
+[37:44] From from a bacterial safety standpoint, as long as your cooking temperatures are above 55 or so, you're not gonna hurt yourself. Right. It's just a question of whether or not it's gonna be nasty. That I that I think it's the nasty factor. You also don't want any flavors or aromas on the outside of your bag because it might drip water into something that you're gonna serve when you're debagging.
+
+[38:04] That is a good point. Yeah. So I would just change it. Uh you look, don't go changing in the middle of your procedure. Like that, no, no.
+
+[38:11] But you know, might as well just change it. Yeah. Anyway. Uh caller, you're on the air. Hey guys.
+
+[38:17] Uh this is Rolf calling from Philadelphia. Uh love the show. Thank you. Excellent. Uh question about as long as everybody's asking about umami today, and you'd already talked a little bit about combu.
+
+[38:29] What about wrapping and marinating things in combucking? Do you do you need how much moistening do you do before that? No. Uh can you do this after making dashi or at that point is it really spent? How long can you really leave it, you know, wrapped?
+
+[38:44] What's the what are some guidelines for protocols there? I've only used fresh uh kombu that's been lightly soaked to make it more pliable. I've never used kombu that I've made uh dashi with. Have you? No, we use the the put this we'll call it spent kambu uh for we're cutting it up into noodles and for salads and stuff like that.
+
+[39:04] You can marinate that. But like but for instance, okay, I'll give you our cur our basic technique is that you take and you uh you have to soak it a little bit to get it pliable, typically. We don't even we don't even soak. I mean, the more often than not we've got you know, let's say we're gonna do fish. It'll it'll kind of fit on there and then put the next layer and vacuum seal it and wraps around it.
+
+[39:22] Well you know, Nils used to do duck breast all the time. Look, here's how you know whether you got it right. You leave it overnight, by the way, it's long enough. But the like uh we when you I think when you peel off the combu, you should get little strings coming little mucus-y strings separating off between the surface of your product and the kombu. This means that you've done a good job.
+
+[39:43] I wouldn't I would not use combu that's already been um used in dashi. I think it's gonna be spent. And in the same sense, I wouldn't I wouldn't use Neils' duck breast kombu to make dashi. No, but that combu is delicious, sliced up and used as a salad, because we've done it. If your combu is good, some kombu you don't want to eat by itself because it's texture is no good.
+
+[40:04] The flavor is good, but the texture's no good. But we took the duck because we we actually he actually cooked actually uh in the bag with the combu on. Sounds amazing. Took it off, and then the combu was cooked already, and then we sliced it and used it as a salad, so it's good. I think it's a fantastic technique.
+
+[40:19] It's not just for fish anymore. You know, uh you know, I I've never done it on anything, it's not a protein. Uh we've done it on vegetables. How is it? It's delicious.
+
+[40:28] And then we flip that around too. I mean, we we think about uh Italian combu. What was that? Prosciutto. Uh so we we'll actually we'll actually thinly slice the prosciutto and then cure and and you know put it on fish, put it on vegetables, and let it infuse with the uh the the flavors as well.
+
+[40:44] But it doesn't make the strings though, does it? We have not gotten strings. No. No. But you do you get strings with the combu on the vegetables?
+
+[40:50] I haven't gotten strings on the vegetables. I've just done it for the flavor of the of the combo itself on the vegetables. Excellent, excellent question. I mean, have you have do you have any experience, caller, with uh the combu stuff, or are you just calling to ask about it? Because it is a great technique.
+
+[41:02] Well, yeah, it's it's uh something I had read about, and I've been making dashi uh quite a bit lately, and figured what the heck, I have all this stuff sitting around. May as well try it. You you may as well indeed. You might want to find the Japanese typically use different combos for wrapping uh than they do for making dashi, but in the small amount of experiments that I ran, I think if the stuff tastes good for dashi, it tastes good for uh it tastes good for wrapping. I don't know why I don't know what the reasons are for them using the different ones for different uh applications, but if it tastes good for dashi, it tastes good for uh combuping as well.
+
+[41:40] I would agree with that. Well so I'm just looking for mucusy strings. Uh on on skins of protein, that's what I have found. Uh I've only done it with fish and duck, though. But that's like then you know you get that that look when you peel it off and it just like right, Alex.
+
+[41:54] You know what I'm talking about? I haven't gotten the mucusy strings on our fish, but we've only done maybe six, eight hours or so on fish. Oh, yeah. Okay, so the the first time I ever saw it demonstrated was a guy that did Saba sushi, which is mackerel sushi. And he would basically form it up, put the combu over it and let it cure pressed overnight, and then he peeled it up, and you get the phew those like Do we know what the strings are?
+
+[42:14] I have no idea. Note to Sylph. Yeah, yeah. Yeah, good thing to research. But anyway, take take a look for it.
+
+[42:19] Also, you should um you should try to look for the incredibly delicious flavor that you'll have. There there is that. Yeah. Mm-hmm. Yeah.
+
+[42:26] Thanks for the call. That's good stuff. Sure. Thanks. Okay.
+
+[42:29] Hello, Dave and Nastasha and Alex, although Dan didn't know you would be here, so he didn't call you out. Hello from the West Coast. Uh I appreciate your show. Uh you guys have the best food pack podcast I found. Thank you.
+
+[42:39] Thank you so much. Um right now it's apple season in the San Francisco Bay Area, and I've been thinking about a dish I had at Moogritz in Spain s uh several years ago. This was a local uh cheese plate served with calcium fossilized apple. The apple is peeled with the stem left on and cooked in what we were told was calcium water. As a result, the inside of the apple was soft and scoopable and the outside had a skin a bit like a dried apple, and I thought it was amazing.
+
+[43:01] So how does this work? I was hoping that it might be within the range of a dedicated home cook. I found something called fossil powder and who when the guys who make fossil powder claim it's safier safer than calcium oxide out of Australia, but there wasn't any information out there about ratios or procedures. What do you think of this technique? This m that meal is the only time I've ever seen or heard about this being done.
+
+[43:19] Okay. Well, first of all, never use calcium oxide, uh, which is like dangerous stuff. You throw it in water and it heats up and uh does all sorts of nasty things. What you want is calcium hydroxide, which is uh where you take calcium oxide, someone else adds it to water, deals with the high temperature and the powder left over. Uh which is what Moogaritz uses.
+
+[43:40] Right, and we actually uh saw Antony present at Starchef's on that whole topic, and then uh Paul Librant from Corton extrapolated off of that using instead of uh calcium hydroxide, he actually used soaked sun chokes in a solution of calcium lactate. Did it work? It did work. Yeah. Uh and we wrote about it.
+
+[43:57] There's actually a whole piece on our website on it, and what it is is it's not so much the the calcium hydroxide, but you're you're getting the reaction between the calcium and the pectin in the vegetables or the fruits. Yeah. Uh you know, I've done I've done I had something on the blog about uh, you know, if you add baking soda, which is basic to if you add baking soda to water, uh your vegetables stay green, but they get mushy. If you add calcium hydroxide, which is basic, they will stay green, but they will also stay firm because there's calcium in them. Uh, you know, traditional use of calcium hydroxide to make vegetables.
+
+[44:31] I mean, it's been used for hundreds, if not thousands of years in places like Thailand, where uh you know calcium hydroxide in the form of uh Thai lime paste has been used to firm up the outsides of bananas. Uh it's used in pickling to firm up uh cucumbers. You're not gonna get hurt. You can't OD on it because calcium hydroxide is not very soluble in water. It's really, really bitter.
+
+[44:54] Horribly bitter. Yeah, but it's not that soluble. So typically here's what you do. Porous vegetables though, porous vegetables suck it in like there's no tomorrow, and you have problems. When you're using a uh a calcium solution, what they do commercially is they'll soak it for a while, they'll get the calcium interaction, then they'll soak it in pure water to get rid of the excess calcium.
+
+[45:14] Uh that's what they do. We we we played that game. I mean, like, look, you don't like calcium hydroxide? I'm not really making a uh smoothie with it tomorrow, no. What about tortillas, brother?
+
+[45:25] I I I I like the results. But the, I mean, in in in like we did Asian pears soaked in in calcium hydroxide for a number of hours, then rinsed it off and then roasted them. Unfortunately, had a bit of an inherent bitterness to them. Um then we we actually then switched back to calcium chloride. Uh chloride.
+
+[45:42] Chloride's better than hydroxide, but I I'm still going more towards what what Mr. Librant was doing, which was with lactate. Hey, listen, why don't we forget all this crazy calcium crap and just go buy some pectin methylester uh peck and pectin meth methyl esterase, novo shape. You can stick blueberries uh and raspberries into uh pectin methylesterase, aka novo shape, which is an enzyme, and uh boil the hell out of them and they won't and they won't break. You ever done that?
+
+[46:11] We have not. It works like a charm. I was looking for it yesterday because I have to do something with pears. I didn't want them breaking up. Anyway, it's totally safe uh to do it.
+
+[46:20] It's about look, you there calcium hydroxide supersaturates extremely quickly. So you're not gonna get more. I mean, the amount of calcium that it's used is gonna depend on how what the absorption rate of the of the product is. That's why the the limiting thing is actually not the amount of water and it's the amount of calcium hydroxide to product that you put in. And you also need to make sure you've got uh a fair amount of pectin in that product.
+
+[46:45] Otherwise it won't firm. It won't firm. Yeah, yeah. But that's a great technique. Uh I mean, I I'm saying this, I've never had it.
+
+[46:51] It it we had a blast with it. There's we did it with uh white sweet potatoes, and then we did it with orange sweet potatoes that we broke apart, soaked them, and then we uh we braised them in uh like a meat jus and then glazed them. And they had this regular shape to it, but soft on the outside, textured on the outside, or soft on the inside, textured on the outside. You ever you ever uh but I never had it moogeries? Never been.
+
+[47:10] Nah, I have not been. I'd love to go. Okay. Uh we're gonna have to rip through the rest of these questions because we're running late as usual. Hello, Dave and Nastasha.
+
+[47:17] Thanks for your advice on modernist style cheese sauce. I ended up using this is uh from Matthew. I ended up using a version of Miravold's mac and cheese. Uh it involves sodium citrate, which is a uh a melting salt and iota carrageen. It worked really well.
+
+[47:29] Good, I'm glad. Uh my question today is if you've ever tried these vegan cheeses that a guy named Dr. Cow makes in Williamsburg. I haven't, as a uh this writing, tried them, but people say they are super good, especially as cashew cream cheese. And I imagine Nastasha's making her vegan face as uh as I write this.
+
+[47:46] Yeah, she is making her vegan face. Uh I looked up, look, I like that. I I've had it. When I was on that raw food for a week, I had the cashew cheeses, not his, but somebody else's. They taste good.
+
+[47:56] They're not cheese. It's no well, I mean that's it. It it is it is an idea or is it an actuality? It's it's it's a it's a it's a it's a worthwhile food product. Okay.
+
+[48:05] It ain't cheese. It's not cheese. No, I I agree with you. I mean, you it it it's giving you a uh a frame of reference. Right.
+
+[48:10] Uh I'm gonna go more into this in a in a minute, but caller, you're on the air. Hi there. Um hi Alex and Dave. This is Brian calling from San Francisco. Hello.
+
+[48:18] Um question is about cook cookware and non-stick surfaces. Um what's safe, what's not safe? Um uh sometimes I smell some off-gassing when I eat it too hot. Wow, how hot were you heating it? What's your what's the deal and what should I know?
+
+[48:34] How hot were you heating it? Um I don't know. I had it on on the on the high flame for you know ten minutes or so. Oh, yeah, yeah. That probably a bad idea, genes were worn.
+
+[48:46] Yeah, yeah, yeah. The the the I don't know about the toxicity of the surface once it vaporizes. I think they assume that you're gonna do it eventually, so it's probably it's not like Viton, which uh, you know, the certain certain polymers degrade into very toxic things when they're burned. Faint plastic wrap. Really?
+
+[49:04] Polyethylene is very toxic when it burns? I don't know, it stinks. Yeah, probably stink. But like Vitans is dangerous as hell when it vaporizes. But Teflon, which is not used in pans, so don't worry.
+
+[49:14] Teflon, I don't know when it decomposes what whether it's actually dangerous. I mean, I wouldn't necessarily use the I mean the pan is toasted after that, right? I mean, I've seen them close to. I mean, but I've seen cooks rip on on those Teflon pans, and I know I know extreme heats are not supposed to be used for them. Because they eventually start breaking down the Teflon coating.
+
+[49:35] By the way, you'll have to just go back and tell me what the question was again, because all I had in my head was an image of a pan on the heat and it it combusts. Okay, are there safe nonstick coatings? If so, which one should I should I get? Um it it's it's a question of of safety. I've never I don't think it's a sa I don't personally feel it's a safety question.
+
+[49:55] There are people who feel what do you think? Do you feel it personally it's a safety question, Alex? I have heard it. I have not tested it, and so I feel uh probably not knowledgeable enough to answer appropriately. I think that that's accurate.
+
+[50:07] I mean, like I think my problem I'm looking for this way. I have several nonstick pans. I have never had a nonstick pan, no matter what they say that can actually stand up to years of abuse. Well, I mean, the the also think non stick is means you're you're probably cooking something gently. If I mean if if you're you know roasting a ribeye in your nonstick pan, you've probably chosen the wrong pan.
+
+[50:25] Because it doesn't have to get a font. Yeah, I mean it's you know you have to use the right tool for the right job. I mean, there's these hard anodized aluminum things that are supposed to be non stick. That's probably fairly safe, right? I don't touch those things, man.
+
+[50:37] Really? What? I've never used one. I don't like aluminum pans. And maybe it's just a preference, but you don't like aluminum pans?
+
+[50:42] Good heat conduction. I don't know, man. They may have good heat conducting. I you're you uh old school anti-aluminum? Yeah.
+
+[50:49] You still believe the Alzheimer's story? I don't believe the Alzheimer's story. Or I I think I think. Yeah. Well, you know, you people used to think that uh that uh aluminum pans could contribute to Alzheimer's because aluminum ions uh aluminum uh was found in the brain tissue of uh certain uh elevated amounts are found in the brain tissue of certain patients who have an autopsy with Alzheimer's, but I believe that that lake has been um disproven.
+
+[51:12] So why do you have a luminate pants? Uh more often than not we're using some sort of acid. Oh yeah. All right. Um so w whether it be a pan sauce or deglazing or something like that, and so anyway, I don't think it's a safe I mean look, maybe it's a safety issue.
+
+[51:25] I'm more worried about it being a functional issue is that once they're toasted, they're they're n not good anymore, and then you get like micro sticking and they're a pain in the butt. Yeah, and they're no good anymore. They're no good anymore. I mean look, and then like you know, they tell you not to wash them in the dishwasher, and then scan pan said that you could wash ours in the dishwasher. Guess what?
+
+[51:42] I did, and you know what? The pan got ruined. So you can't wash it in the dishwasher. Well, that's what they say. Yeah, they said you can't wash you they said ours are so tough that you can wash it in the dishwasher and use metal tools on it.
+
+[51:53] Well I'm like, okay, I'll take you at your word and I'll use it in a dishwasher and I'll use metal tools. Then got messed up. Like within like a year, year and a half, it got messed up. Then they came out later with a second uh version of scan pan stuff and they're like, Oh, this yeah, this one actually works. I haven't tested it yet.
+
+[52:07] I don't know. You ought to just take it in for a uh changeover. Yeah. I know, but I'm not like that. Like even think something has a guarantee, it's like, you know, I'm just so lazy.
+
+[52:14] I'm not gonna show up with something and say honor your guarantee. Yeah, but yeah, you'll go out and buy fifty-two different versions of it and test it. Yeah, I'm a joke. Anyway. Anyway, I hope that was helpful.
+
+[52:25] Thank you. Thank you. All right, so back on this uh cheese thing. Here's my problem. Look, look, the vegan cheese is basically what you do is you you you use uh nuts, you grind them up, you ferment them somehow using some version of like uh either what they call probiotics, which is another one of these crazy terms that I don't uh has marginal meaning.
+
+[52:43] And they and uh and rejuvelac, which is basically fermenting sprouted grain stuff. Uh and it ferments and acidifies and somehow coagulates. Although I looked tried to look up the mechanism of nut cheeses, and no one's written a scholarly article that I could find on it. Uh but that said, I looked up the SuperCow or whatever it is, Mr. Cow website, and one of the benefits they have in their plant is they have a tachyonized uh electrical panel.
+
+[53:09] And I had to go look up what tachyonized meant. What does tachyonized mean? Because there's a guy had me attack. Yeah, well, so tachyons are a hypothetical particle that uh move faster than the speed of light that's been posited in some versions of uh uh uh physics uh that is obviously never been observed. And this guy claims that he can by using these tachyons in a machine that tachyonizes material, that he can increase the positive energy in the things around you and him.
+
+[53:42] I read about this in Calvin and Hobbes. For real? No. Oh, anyways. So I am very uh uh, you know, tachyonized.
+
+[53:51] Jesus, tachyonized. But that said, uh there is a very interesting thing about faster-than-light particles happening right now at CERN, where they think they did uh uh detected a neutrino that was going faster than the speed of light, uh, and they're currently trying to reduplicate the experiment. Those guys are no joke uh stuff. It should be due in November. So it's a very exciting time to be thinking about faster-than-light particles.
+
+[54:13] All right, Matthew has another question. I periodically get in debates. Actually, we'll do this one, we'll we'll do we'll do the one comment and then we'll finish off with this guy. What and then we have this one here. That was Ooh, how do you open an oyster with LN?
+
+[54:23] Uh we got that, or do you have it? Yeah, you t I mean, I've tried it, but the problem is, and Miraville really recommends it, but the problem I've always had is that if you try to open an oyster, shuck an oyster by using liquid nitrogen, is that you get partial freezing of the thing and then it works well. We've done it. We we we do like twelve to fifteen seconds for oysters or clams, drop it in and then let it thaw, and they pop themselves and they're beautiful. They're unbelievable.
+
+[54:44] Yeah, but you're freezing the oyster. You don't have you ever done a side by side. Do it do a side by side with me. Do a hand shuck and then do an LN shuck. And like uh do a triangle test, like f like f five reps.
+
+[54:58] And I want I I look, I'm I want to know if the freezing does anything to the taste. Perfect. All right. When are we doing this? Uh whenever.
+
+[55:05] All right. We gotta do it. I mean, look, it works. It m it works great. Clam clams are off the hook.
+
+[55:09] I mean, they're the plumpest clams. And when one of the things is I noticed that when when you're shucking them this way, is there's no there's no breaking at all of any of the oyster or clam membranes. So you end up with a plumper, just a visually aesthetic. You have side by side, and I've shucked them and it's supposed to be. So we'll have to blindfold.
+
+[55:25] You have to blindfold. All right. Or unless unless unless visual is is part of the No, let's just do ta we'll do both. Okay. But first we should do taste, blindfold.
+
+[55:34] All right, so we'll do it. We'll do it. That's it. Uh there's no question that it actually works. It works, yeah, and it's it's 12 to 15 seconds in nitrogen, pull it out, let it rest in the refrigerator, and they'll pop themselves and then just use a spoon.
+
+[55:46] Or you can run it under lightland or warm water and they'll just speed up the process. Danielle Mullen writes in was uh hello, was reading about some reviews of ramen places in New York City and who's making the best bowl in the city, etc. I'm interested in starting to cook my own noodles and broth, and I was wondering if you had a favorite way for making the noodles. Fat or thin, do you cut them yourself, etc.? Do you use traditional consway or eggs?
+
+[56:06] I think if you're gonna make ramen, you have to use consway. Being the uh alkalizing uh agent that they use to make them A, yellow and B stretchy. We use baking soda and we use actually unbaked baking soda. But it's it'll mean does it go yellow? It gives it you get a slight tint, but you don't get that fill.
+
+[56:24] You get chew, and and it also makes them well uh easier not to overcook. Right. The here's the thing. You don't want like uh traditionally they're not cut, they're extruded, and uh look, Alex uh and Aki were fortunate enough to weasel uh an arco bellino amazing pasta extruder out of the company, uh which is like is offense for look if you like you have like 2,000 bucks jingling in your pocket and you want a pasta extruder. Find another 2600 bucks and then you can have one now that's two.
+
+[56:52] Yeah, it's gonna be 25 for the AEX 10, which is coming out, and that's that's including dyes, etc. It does just as good a job, it just doesn't have the auto-cut and doesn't have as many dyes, right? Doesn't have as many dyes and a little bit smaller, but it's the same guy, it's the same beast. It's awesome. This sucker is not that much bigger than a cuisinar, by the way, folks, and it really does a number on pasta.
+
+[57:10] Like, I was the first to think that a small pasta extruder would be a load of horse horse manure, and I was like, this is gonna suck. This thing is amazing. It's an amazing machine. Yeah. Uh anywho, you can hand cut them though, but they're very stretchy, is the is is the issue.
+
+[57:24] They're supposed to be stretchy. Uh I would use consway, uh, which you can get at any Asian uh market, and then you can tell if it's working, the flour will go yellow, and all of a sudden it'll get stretchy, which is characteristic of this. Here's the trick with ramen. Ramen, you like you know, you lightly cook it beforehand, you fry it. It partially dehydrated by frying.
+
+[57:43] So you have to fry ramen noodles. That's the real, not a secret. I mean, you can look it up, that's how you do it. But ramen noodles are cooked, fried uh as a dehydration process, and then I think further dehydrated and then rehydrated again. But that's characteristic of ramen.
+
+[57:57] I don't know whether the restaurants do that, but they should. I have not I've not heard that frying thing, so once again. Yeah, that's how they f you fry them. At least that's my memory. I didn't re I look this question came in right now, so this is coming from my memory.
+
+[58:07] Someone call me in and tell me I'm a moron, uh, which happens quite often. Okay, last up, uh I periodically get in debates with my girlfriend on the subject of using Fantastic Lysol or other such sprays to help me wash pots and pans. She firmly believes that I should not. I believe they help to sterilize and get crud off of things that if I thoroughly rinse the items, it's a safe practice. This assuming the stuff I am washing is non-porous.
+
+[58:30] Am I being a jackass or what? Huh. Well, uh, I looked up the MSDSs on uh Fantastic and uh and some of the Lysols. There's a bunch of Lysols out there. Um and but before I do this, I mean, look, you don't need a disinfectant for your pan because you're about to put it on a on a in on a flame again.
+
+[58:53] You know what I mean? Let it rip. Yeah, you yeah. Especially if it's that Teflon pan. Yeah.
+
+[58:58] But uh, but but uh you know what those things have in them is surfactants that help get rid of oil, right? Uh all of those household products are meant to volatilize and not leave residues on your surfaces. So you're probably going to be okay. If you're actually looking at a sanitizer, though, I would go with good old fashioned bleach. I like bleach.
+
+[59:22] I mean, bleach is great for a number of reasons. It's easy to purchase. Uh, you can use it in very dilute um look, you're really only wanting to use uh between uh a tablespoon and an ounce per gallon as a sanitizing solution. I mean, don't ever go over uh like half a cup per gallon for normal sanitizing because you're gonna have a lot of residual chlorine. You don't need it.
+
+[59:44] Like those lower amounts are gonna provide enough sanitizing to do it. Soak your stuff in that, and chlorine in those small amounts will volatilize as the thing dries and leave no residue at all. And then you're good. Then you're good to go. I mean, like chlorine's not good at getting the crap off of it.
+
+[1:00:00] You need to get the crap off beforehand. Which is elbow grease. Which is elbow. But before that, uh do that. Now, what is in Fantastic?
+
+[1:00:06] Okay. Uh, first of all, this is hilarious. I've never seen this in an MSDS. Uh they put this down color blue, odor fresh. Oh, that's that we can do that in an MSDS, huh?
+
+[1:00:17] Yeah, fresh, very fresh. And the other one I looked up there, the disinfectant fantastic was color blue, odor pleasant. I MSDS, by the way, is manufacture material safety data sheet. Yep. Okay.
+
+[1:00:31] So what's in Fantastic? Propylene glycol monobutyl ether, uh, ether. And that's a solvent and a coupling agent. It helps lock the grease and get it off, is what it is. Uh if you feed a whole boatload of that to rats, their liver will uh get cancer, but uh it doesn't happen to us so much.
+
+[1:00:47] It volatilizes fairly quickly, uh it evaporates, um, and we're not eating boatloads of it. The other main thing in it is alkyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride, aka benzyl alconium chloride. ADBAC is highly toxic to fish and uh aquatic invertebrates, but it's not gonna hurt us in small amounts, and uh, you know, don't drink it. I mean, that's the old common sense rule. Yeah.
+
+[1:01:12] Lysol could have a bunch of stuff in it, uh including um isoprobyl alcohol, potassium hydroxide, why the hell would it have potassium hydroxide in it? That I don't know. Weird, huh? Uh, and also more of the ADBAC and some other cool antiseptic properties. But here's what I found out about Lysol.
+
+[1:01:28] You ready for this? Go for it. You know what lysol was originally sold as? In the 20s? Deodorant.
+
+[1:01:33] Feminine hygiene product. I was close. You were supposed to douche with this stuff. Fabulous. Not really.
+
+[1:01:39] I could I could I could not believe it. So I was a Wikipedia reference, so I was like, I don't trust Wikipedia on this, right? So I went and I saw a whole bunch of advertisements. Uh, and they were the like it just goes to show how, as a culture, uh, we were just an offensive bunch of uh people back in the day to suggest that here's how awful the ads were. They would put ads in women's magazines, and I'll read you some on the way out.
+
+[1:02:07] Ready? Uh by the way, before I start reading the Lysol copy from the 40s, which uh hopefully, if you have any sort of heart or soul, are going to make you uh be upset at the Lysol Corporation. But uh thank you, uh Alex, for being with us today. We had we had a great time. Um good to be here.
+
+[1:02:23] Okay, from 1949, uh in a women's magazine. Uh a picture uh picture an advertisement, a woman beating against a door and not being able to make through the door. Too late to cry out in anguish. Be aware of the of one of the one intimate neglect that can engulf you in marital grief. Too late when love is gone for a wife to plead that no one warned her of danger, because a wise, considerate wife makes it her business to find out how to safeguard her daintiness in order to protect precious married love and happiness.
+
+[1:02:55] One of the soundest ways for a wife to keep married love in bloom is to achieve dainty allure by practicing effective feminine hygiene, such as regular vaginal douches with reliable Lysol. Cooking issues. Vicious Vicious vodka. Oh, you did that. Got me on this corner.
+
+[1:03:30] And I don't know where I'm at.
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+[0:00] You know when you're wrapping up a long day and that what's for dinner panic hits? Well, when you've got convenient everyday protein from Omaha Steaks waiting at home, that panic turns into your weeknight win. And now's the time to buy during Omaha Steaks Spring Savings Event. Save big on their exclusive lineup of mouthwatering steaks, gourmet burgers, air chilled chicken, pork, seafood, and more. All delivered right to your door.
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+[0:24] Plus, get an extra $35 off with promo code AUDIO when you shop OmahaStakes.com today. With over 100 years of unrivaled quality and variety, Omaha Stakes understands what you need to get dinner done. Plus, every bite is backed by their 100% guarantee. Omaha Stakes is your weeknight win. So get the world's best everyday protein during their spring savings event.
+
+[0:48] Go to OmahaStakes.com for an extra $35 off when you use promo code AUDIO at checkout. That's OmahaStakes.com. Promo code AUDIO. Terms apply. See site for details.
+
+[1:02] Broadcasting live from Roberta's in Bushwood, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. I'm Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live every Tuesday from about 12 to 1245 in the back of Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick Brooklyn on the Heritage Radio Network. Joined as always uh with uh my co-host Nastasha the Hammer Lopez.
+
+[1:39] Hello. Hi. On this fine Tuesday morning, how are you today? Fine. Good, good.
+
+[1:43] All right. Today's cooking issues, number 61, I might add. Well, by the way, today is a happy birthday to my mom issue. My mom's birthday today. Happy birthday.
+
+[1:53] Yeah, right. It's not like she listens to it. What's that name? Linda Dr. Linda J.
+
+[1:58] Adonisio. She runs the heart transplant program at uh Columbia University, the uh Piatric Heart Transplant Program. Yeah, she's badass. Anyway. Today's show is sponsored by Modernist Pantry.
+
+[2:11] This show should just be sponsored by them. Like all the time. Yeah. Anyway, alright. Today's show is sponsored by Modernist Pantry, supplying innovative ingredients for the modern cook.
+
+[2:20] Do you love to experiment with new cooking techniques and ingredients, but hate to overspend for pounds of supplies when only a few grams are needed per application? Modernist Pantry has a solution. They offer a wide range of modern ingredients and packages that make sense for the home cook or enthusiast, and most only cost around five bucks, saving you time, money, and storage space. Whether you're looking for hydrocolloids, pH buffers, or even meat glue, you'll find it at Modernist Pantry. And if you need something that they don't carry, just ask.
+
+[2:46] Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you. With inexpensive shipping to any country in the world, Modernist Pantry is your one-stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients. Modernist Pantry now carries three types of gel and gum, including Calco Gel F, low ASO Gel N, and Calco Gel LT100 high ASL gel. What's the other one? High Low.
+
+[3:05] That's it. High low and a mix. Farran uh sells something called uh gel an or gelanio or whatever he calls it in the Spanish stuff. And what it is, it's a mix of the high ASO gum and the low acel gel and gum. So for those of you that don't know, well, I'll finish that thing first, then we'll get into it.
+
+[3:19] Uh fans of cooking issues that place an order of $35 or more before next week's show. We'll get a free package of gel an. Simply use the promo code CI61 when placing your order online at ModernistPantry.com. Visit modernist pantry.com today for all of your modernist cooking needs. Okay.
+
+[3:37] So uh gel an, right, is interesting because it's uh it's one of the newer hydrocolloids. It's a product of uh microbial fermentation. And it's made by Kelko uh CP Kelko. Piper, our uh old intern Piper now is working for CP Coco because it's a family business. He moved out to California, correct?
+
+[3:55] Wow. Isn't that true? He was either about to or he just moved out to California. No, he took the job. Anyway, he's working for CP Calco.
+
+[4:01] So the cool thing about uh gel N is this one, Gel N can be used for certification because it requires calcium to set. So if you have very, very pure water or you use what's called a sequestrant, which binds up to calcium, you can do sterification. I don't really like sturification, so that's now what interests me. But what is cool about gel an is it has a very good mouthfeel, it has very good flavor release, and you use it in very small quantities to get a fairly firm gel, which means that you're not gonna mask uh flavors a lot. The other cool thing about gel an is that once you make the gel, you can boil it and it's not gonna go away.
+
+[4:34] So, really, really hot gels, people use uh gel an. Also, the cool thing is that the high ASOL gel an is very rubbery and stretchy and bouncy, and the low ASL gel an is very brittle. And by combining the two, you can get any kind of texture in between that you want. Gel An also makes very good fluid gels. Oh, we have a caller?
+
+[4:55] Oh, caller, you're on the air. Hi there. Um my name's John. I've called in uh once before. Uh I know you uh last couple weeks you've been talking about um hunters and how they should really get an immersion circulator to cook their cook their kills.
+
+[5:10] Um so I mentioned that to a hunter buddy of mine, and he's actually uh his dad actually got a deer last night. Nice. So I'm wondering if you have any specific recommendations as far as um what uh you know what preparation and stuff. Uh and it sounds like the most likely cut that he's gonna get out of this is uh you said the uh r rear, so it'd be like a ham, I guess, out of the hind quarter area. Right.
+
+[5:36] Is he is he is he splitting it with other people, you mean the the uh the Yeah, it's like he's splitting it with him and his dad, maybe. Ah, yeah. So he's getting the so his dad's taking the loins and all that, huh? Yes. I think the loin is probably the best part.
+
+[5:47] So he's getting a ham cut. How old is the deer? Is it very is it young? Uh don't know how old it is. It's a buck though, so they're worried it might be a little bit uh gamey.
+
+[5:57] Right. And that that's one of the reasons uh I asked, because cooking low temp isn't going to take any of the gaminess out out of the meat, right? So, like for instance, if you get like, you know, a very very young deer, like the liver is good, but it goes incredibly livery in an older deer. Uh but I don't let me see. So for meat that is gamey, tendency is when you cook it, the longer you cook it, the more you accentuate that kind of gaminess.
+
+[6:24] Right. Right. So then the other question is kind of uh, and how old the animal is is gonna determine roughly how tough the meat is, right? Right. So if you like gaminess.
+
+[6:35] Right now, in general, the deer is not gonna be very fatty. So even a young tender deer, if you overcook it, it's shot. You know what I'm saying? Because it's gonna dry out. So here are the basic parameters.
+
+[6:45] Typically, in a gamey animal, the longer you cook it, the uh more gamey it gets. Now, if you like that gamey taste, that's not necessarily a problem. All right. The more connective tissue that's in an animal, the longer you need to cook it to tenderize it at a given temperature. Right?
+
+[7:01] Right. And the less fat is in an animal, the drier it's gonna get the instant you overcook it. So these are the three things you have to play with. Now for uh low temp, like on a deer loin or something like that, I like low, like 55, 56 Celsius, right? Right.
+
+[7:14] And you don't need to cook it that long. Now the question is how long if you're going to use those cooking temperatures, how long do you need to cook uh the different muscles in the hind quarter to get them to be tender? It's probably going to be a while, in which case it's going to be gamey. I you know I would recommend um like this Well I know he does cut these things like steaks. Uh I mean he says he basically is cutting he said he's cutting steaks out of the ham area.
+
+[7:44] So I think he treats them much like he would something from the loin. Right. I mean I'd I had bag I'd bag them in butter. I wouldn't salt them because you might have to cook them for a long time and if you cook them for a long time you're going to lose some of the juiciness if they're pre-salted. I would bag them in butter without any uh or oil whatever but uh you know something that's not gonna affect the flavor in a negative way I would not add salt until uh the secondary process you can sear it beforehand if you want it bag it and then if you want to cook it like a steak he has to in his mind he has to come up with what he thinks the equivalent steak is right so uh I'll give you some examples like uh a skirt steak if you're only gonna cook it for like 30 minutes you want to cook a skirt steak at 57.
+
+[8:24] If you're gonna cook a skirt steak for four hours low temp right then you're gonna want to go down to 55, 56 Celsius because it's gonna tenderize over that and it's gonna taste better at those lower temperatures. Does make sense? Mm-hmm. Also you're not gonna want to cut it too thin or you're gonna ruin all of your good work when you do the search. See one of the ways that people do game meats a lot even in the hind quarter, right?
+
+[8:46] Uh, like for instance, I've had lion meat this way and bear meat this way. They'll cut very, very thin steaks, almost like uh you know, pork chops used to be, and then uh and then they'll just high heat pan them real quick. And it'll basically the fact that the meat is tough and overcooked is gonna be ameliorated by the fact that you have the nice taste from the searing and it's cut so thin that your teeth are gonna be able to make it through anyway, but that's not what we're looking for. Right? Right.
+
+[9:11] We're looking to actually cook the meat properly. So you're gonna want to cut a relatively thick steak. So if he's saying he's steak cutting it, you want to find out kind of what thickness he's going for. I would go on the thicker side, like you would for a regular, like a good beef steak, and then just run a test with a small cube and see how tender it gets if you cook it at let's say fifty-five for eight hours. Do you know what I'm saying?
+
+[9:35] And then just really okay. Yeah, just see like as a ballpark start. Just take a small cube of it without searing it, because I don't want to know anything about what happens. I want to know what happens to the tenderness and the flavor of the meat itself. Uh do that and see whether it goes.
+
+[9:48] If it's mushy, it means you cooked it too long. If it's not tender, it means you haven't cooked it long enough. If it's very gamey, try to up the temperature a degree and and chop the time down by a lot. And if it's uh, you know, if it's just not if it's just undercooked for your taste, then obviously uh, you know, raise the tap. And if it's uh similarly, if it's overcooked for your taste, lower it a little bit.
+
+[10:10] Don't go below about 54 uh 54.4 Celsius if you're gonna cook it for a long time just for safety reasons, uh, and you're not gonna want to go above fifty-seven. So it's like that's your whole range of cooking right there. Perfect. Okay, cool. We'll experiment with that then.
+
+[10:26] Um can you when you when you're done, uh you can ask another question. When you're done, will you please write or call in, tell us what happened? Sure, yeah. Maybe I'll take some pictures too. Nice.
+
+[10:34] Um just thinking about uh so I you know, I did uh um a dinner this weekend with some friends, and and um my wife just loves um, you know, uh steak tenderloin. So that's what I did, and that's you know, a crowd pleaser, it's you know, easy to do fifty-five, hour and hour and a half, and and you know, it's nice and tender, sear it off. The one time I have tried different cuts of steak, I think I was a New York strip. I basically use the same technique. And I know that um, you know, from your charts and stuff, uh you know, I think New York strip is considered a tender cut, so that's pretty much the same technique I applied, but it was really tough.
+
+[11:10] Um and I don't know if that was a function of just not a very good cut of meat, or do I need to cook a cut like that longer? Okay, so a strip, depending on uh well, you know, strip does have that piece of uh cartilage running underneath the fat line right up at the at the top, but you're not talking about that. You're talking about the whole, yeah, the whole hunk in general, I think was kind of just not very not very tender. What temperature did you use? I it w I it's been a while, but I think it was basically fifty-five.
+
+[11:36] Yeah. You know, what you medium rare. Fifty-five is a fine temperature for strip. It's great temperature for rib, for instance. It's a fine temperature for uh for for ri you know um uh ribeye.
+
+[11:49] Uh but the uh you might want to take the strip up to fifty-six or just cook it just cook it longer. I think uh, you know, a a strip in general, when we cook strips, I like to cook them at least two hours at fifty five um to soften them up, and actually I think they're kind of at their optimum at around four. Uh really, okay. At that range of four hours. They're not gonna go gamey on you, and you're not gonna break them down too much.
+
+[12:14] So I would say a fifty-five, which is a good number, I would cook it for about four hours, uh, no salt beforehand. Uh otherwise it's gonna lose some of its texture. And I would then uh drop the temperature of the circulator to 50 for about half hour or so uh just to let it uh between half hour and forty-five minutes to let it uh the temperature in the center of the steak come down to fifty, and then just sear the bejesus out of the outside. And why you just drop the temperature so you don't overcook it when you sear it? Bingo.
+
+[12:46] Okay. Yeah, that's the only reason. And you know, it if you have like uh I for instance, I did this uh just last night, is uh I I cooked a whole bunch of steaks on uh Sunday in a bag, unsalted, um rib steaks at 55, and then I had one uh left over because somebody cancelled on me. So I just left it in the bag, and then I uh I heated it up last night. I threw it uh uh cooked on Saturday rather.
+
+[13:14] I threw it in a uh in the circulator, but I put my retherm at 50, right? Re-therm it for 35 minutes and then sear it, right? So you're not gonna have any safety issues because you're only keeping it at 50 for a very short amount of time, and the rest of the time it was kept in the safe zone, and then you can flash it off. So if you if you don't want to worry about exactly you know dropping it at the right time and you're gonna cook it ahead of time, then you can just do your retherm at 50 and then steer it off, and you're not gonna have any problems. Right.
+
+[13:45] Great. Alrighty? Thanks for calling and let us know how the deer uh came out. We'll do keep up the good work. Super, thank you.
+
+[13:53] All right, so back to gel in. What? Yeah, well, let me finish the gel in before we go to break. Anyway. So if uh uh I had something to tell you about that too, about the about the steak.
+
+[14:04] Oh, you know what? My stepfather says I speak very, very quickly. Is that true? It's very true. I speak quick.
+
+[14:09] He says I speak uh more quickly on the radio than I actually do in the real life. Is that true? I fear if I open my mouth before I say something, you're gonna cut me off right before I say it. Uh past you speak. That's a confirmation.
+
+[14:19] Yeah. Anyway, whatever. What the who the hell wants to talk slow when they're on the radio? I mean, am I unintelligible? All right, right, all right.
+
+[14:28] Okay, okay. So gel an. So uh so gel the other cool thing J-an does is it makes a uh fluid gel. And a fluid gel is something where you make a gel and you shear it into very, very small particles. The particles tend to uh kind of adhere to each other when it's at rest and they form a gel.
+
+[14:44] Uh it what's acts like a gel, and then when you shear it, i.e. in your mouth or by pouring it or spooning it or anything like that, it reverts to the properties of a liquid, makes a fluid gel. Gel-in! Great stuff. Uh we like it a lot.
+
+[14:55] That's what we use for our ice cream that we uh I'm bleeding? Yeah. My nose is bleeding. Uh, but not through not through the nose hole, the bridge of the nose. In case you guys are getting grossed out that there's like blood shooting out of my nostrils while I'm talking, it's not true.
+
+[15:06] I scraped the bridge of my nose, is what Nastash is telling me. Anyway, now Nastash has an image of me blowing uh blood out of my uh nose holes. Anyway, nose holes. So uh gel-in, really good stuff. Uh we use it to make our hyper creamy torchable ice cream.
+
+[15:23] Anyway, with that, uh call in your questions to 718. What is it? Oh my god, I forgot. 74972128. That's right.
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+[15:30] 7184972128. We're gonna go to our first commercial break, cooking issues. Love that song, right? What was that noise? You don't like Stevie Wonder?
+
+[16:33] I got a glitter in my throat. Oh. I've got That's a new one. I've got glitter in my throat. Alright.
+
+[16:39] Welcome back to Cooking Issues. Hey Nastach, it was fun having uh Talbot on the show last week, right? Mm-hmm. He was fun guest. Mm-hmm.
+
+[16:45] Yeah. You guys enjoy the Talbot over there in the booth? Yeah? Thumbs up? Yeah, he's awesome.
+
+[16:50] Yeah, he's a good man. How was his other show that he recorded? He's good. He pulled a marathon and he was here all day. I know it.
+
+[16:55] He was just sitting out in Roberta's, like, you know, with his earphones in, being totally antisocial. I ran into him like, oh my god, how's Talbot? Come on the show. He may have slept here. I'm not even sure.
+
+[17:03] He did? In the morning or in the evening or both? After all the shows, you know. Yeah, just slept. Couldn't make it back to Philly.
+
+[17:07] Exactly. Nice. Nice. Okay. So calling your questions to 718497-2128.
+
+[17:13] That's 718497-2128. Gonna go to some rate uh writing questions, right? Is that what we call him? Writing questions? Yeah.
+
+[17:19] Email. Can you give me the glitter noise again? Um I'm just getting over something too, so I have the same laugh my grandpa used to, which is always like coughing. It's like start laughing and then coughing. So it reminds me of reminds me of being mean to people if because it makes me anyway.
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+[17:34] Anyway. So I'm trying who's this from anyway. Do we know who this is from? This question? Is this flavor.
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+[17:39] Also from Johnny? Oh, Blake. Alright. Blake Anderson writes in, I'm trying to make a chill to Zabayon, but the liquid separates out after an hour in the fridge. The recipe says to chill for four to six hours.
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+[17:49] I'm using four egg yolks, very fresh and very local. One quarter cup of sugar, one half to one cup of red wine. I don't usually use red wine, but anyway, Marcella. Oh, really? Mm-hmm.
+
+[18:00] Blake, we're gonna come back to this. Caller, you're on the air. Hello? Were you lying to me, Nastasha? Oh, hey, caller, you're on the air.
+
+[18:11] Jack said. We lost him, sorry. You lost him? Yeah. Weird.
+
+[18:15] Nice, Jack. Thanks, man. Thanks, bro. Okay. Uh so we're going back to Blake's uh Zabayon.
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+[18:20] Uh quarter cup sugar, half cup to one cup, red wine. He dropped the liquid ratio. That didn't fix the problem. Uh Blake, you think that's a man or a woman? So one man.
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+[18:29] Uh dropping a liquid ratio did not fix the problem. I'm beating a mixture to a foam on a double boiler and mixing until the mixture cools to below 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Would adding less thin help to better emulsify. Any advice to make a stable mixture? All right, Blake, I think I know your problem, and you're not gonna believe it.
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+[18:43] You ready for this? You're not gonna believe it. First of all, Zabayon, one of my favorite things. I love Zabayon. You like that stuff, Nastasha?
+
+[18:48] Yeah. Like over strawberries. It used to be I used to make this all the time. I would I, you know, I used to have like a bottle of marsala uh just lying around the house just for this occasion. When it was strawberry season, I'd cut up the strawberries, make a sabayon, pour that some bitch right over the strawberries and eat it.
+
+[19:02] That was dessert. It's a good dessert, yeah? Yes. Okay. Now, here's what you were doing wrong.
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+[19:06] I almost guarantee it, because I used to do this too. You're undercooking your Zabayon. So what you're doing is you're you're super worried. And by the way, here's the procedure, folks. You put your egg yolks, your liquid, your sugar in a bowl, you whisk the uh heck out of them, and you put it over a heat source, and you keep whipping until it becomes foamy and thickens, right?
+
+[19:25] Then it becomes a creamy sauce. Now, everyone when they're making a Zabayon petrified that they're gonna overcook the uh egg yolks and uh thereby make it taste grainy and like scrambled eggs. Now, you're probably, if you're being careful and you keep beating it, is not gonna happen. Here's the issue. A Zabayon is gonna start getting foamy and look like it's built up a texture just from the fact that you're so afraid that you're gonna curdle it that you're beating the crap out of it with a whisk.
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+[19:51] So you're forming a nice foamy mixture with your Zaboyon, but you're not cooking it enough. Then when you pull it off and put it in the fridge to cool down, over time that foam separates and you get a layer of liquid sitting at the bottom because it doesn't kind of keep self-emulsified the way that let's say a creme anglaise does when it's oh uh undercooked, right? Which is, you know, similar, but instead of using a wine, you're using uh milk, right? And usually not as high of an egg yolk uh ratio. So what you're doing here is you're making something that looks all foamy but it it's not cooked yet, and it's gonna separate.
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+[20:21] I've done this many times. I guarantee that's your problem. Do not be afraid. Make sure that your mix isn't just foamed up, but that the actual liquid is thick in your in your Zabayon, and I guarantee you this is gonna solve your problem, you'll be able to chill it down just fine. Uh here's another thing.
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+[20:39] Everyone gets all I saw some uh I was looking up on the internets and I saw some recommendations on uh cooking it, and they're like, don't let it get too hot, don't let it get too hot. And all of the recommendations that I saw on the internet about the temperature at which uh the egg yolks are gonna curdle in the Zabayon are all off and they're all low. Uh invariably, I don't know what the heck these guys are reading their temperatures with or how much of a carryover they're getting, but the information out there is just not right. Um, I, in fact, don't even make the thing. People are like, Don't let the don't let your pan touch the liquid in the double boiler, or everything's gonna go to hell in a handbasket.
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+[21:14] Uh also not true. It's a matter of just being careful. Now, the larger amount you're making, the more careful you have to be about regulating your heat source because you can't keep the thing moving as quickly with your hands. But for small normal quantities, a couple of egg yolks, uh, you know, you can do it. I do it in a in a bowl with a smooth bottom.
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+[21:32] You don't want something with a lot of edges on the bottom because you're not gonna be able to get your whisk into it effectively, and you might get some local curdling there. But I make the thing directly over a flame. I have like a bowl with like a loop in it that I hold the loop with a heat-proof thing, and I make it directly over a flame. I don't even use uh anything. If you're worried about cool cooling down, getting carryover, have a uh like a like a pan of hot of uh cold water next to it to stick it in and beat it a couple of times.
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+[21:56] As soon as it starts cooling down, uh it's not gonna curdle on you. You're gonna be fine. So I think your problem is just fear of curdling. Get over your fear of curdling and your Zabillon is gonna be delicious. That's my recommendation.
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+[22:07] If you uh are having like real issues, it's something that I don't understand. It is possible to stabilize it so much. I wouldn't use less than I'd use starch, but uh I wouldn't do it because it's gonna muddy the flavor. Zabillon is so pure and delicious and light and ethereal that uh it just shouldn't be messed with under any circumstances. What are your thoughts on this?
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+[22:25] It's good. Yeah, all right. Johnny Kirk writes in says, I have a question about preserving lemons through sous vide. In my experience, preservation through the uh of lemons, through the use of a chamber machine takes an equal amount of time as the traditional method of preservation. My uh true.
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+[22:41] My process uh using a multivax C200, which is just like multi-vax C200 for those of you that don't know what the hell that is, it's a standard medium-sized restaurant vacuum machine. Like standard. Yeah, standard. Okay, uh, is as follows. Place the container with the lemons, the salt, and the lemon juice in the vacuum machine, uh, and let it get down to about twenty millibar, which is fair to midland vacuum.
+
+[23:04] The guy's back on the phone. He's back on the phone. All right, caller. It's a new colour. New color?
+
+[23:08] We lost the old guy. I feel so bad now. Anyway. Caller, you are on the air. Hey guys.
+
+[23:13] Howdy. Uh question about methell solutions. Okay. Using them. I've I've been playing with them lately and uh have had what I would call absolutely no luck.
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+[23:28] Really, really stinky, nasty, chemically, even like fishy smells coming off of this stuff. Like, you know, one percent solutions. I tried to try to make some meringues. You know, you were talking about meringues a couple of weeks ago. Oh, hey, that's cool.
+
+[23:44] I'll do I'll try that. I tried to make uh sort of like a tuy, you know, sort of crispy. I wanted to make a uh tamarind crispy piece. And man, that stuff was so foul. I must be doing something horribly wrong.
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+[24:00] Okay. Help me. Let's start. Which methyl cell do you have? So I have tried uh both the F fifty and the E four M.
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+[24:09] Okay. I tried to Yep. E f the E series I I don't like the E series. I'm just gonna be honest. They don't I don't even know that they make the E series anymore.
+
+[24:20] Uh, because their factory blowed uh blew up uh number of years ago. Maybe they maybe they started making again. But the E series is typically used for making like the twils and the chips. Is that what you were doing? 'Cause they're film formers.
+
+[24:33] That's what I was trying to do. Yeah, I don't like them. Uh much. I know a lot of people that like them. Uh I went to a restaurant which shall remain nameless.
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+[24:41] It was Moto, and like half the dishes had on it uh like a tweel formed with uh methylcel, one of the E series. It's it's E4 what? E4C, E4M? E4M. Okay.
+
+[24:54] So that's also, I mean, the good news about E4M uh is that 4M, the the number, right, is uh 4, and then the M stands for thousand. So the viscosity of that one is like 4,000 times greater than uh what a one would be. So F50 versus F4M, you're looking at a factor of uh 240, like like 80, like 80 times thicker at a given uh thing. Okay. So you should be able to use a relatively minuscule amount of it to provide a thickening power, but the problem is that the E series is good at film forming, but it's not very good at gelling, and it's not very good at uh I mean I don't think it's a very good whipper.
+
+[25:41] Um it's mainly used for that film forming thing, but you need to have a certain amount of that in there to make the film forming thing. Anytime the methell uh percentage gets to be one, you're gonna start tasting the awful uh methyl cell stuff unless you're using some very, very, very strong flavors. So when when I'm using F50, F50 is the one that makes really good foams, it then makes a meringue. When you're using F50, if you have an extremely extremely strong flavor, like passion fruit, for instance, passion fruit or you know what some passion fruit variant um will obscure say that sounds nasty, right? Will obscure the methyl cell flavor up to about a percent or a little over.
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+[26:25] Uh that said, in general, if you ki in a whipped product in a m in a meringue I don't taste the methell uh when it's down at like zero point eight percent so eight grams per kilo uh but you start adding like a gr like one point two grams per kilo over a percent like that and you're definitely gonna get uh an off flavor from the methell that's like and so and that's one of the the problems with it. Now how much were you using with the F50 and what flavor were you using? That was the tamarind? Yep. And I I had started at just under a percent.
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+[27:04] I was going for 0.6 and then I I was paging through modernist cuisine and those guys use it often at you know one point two ish or so I upped it uh and I I tried that in tamarind I tried that in uh in a roasted cauliflower I was trying to put those two together and it just it just kept coming through. I also had it problems with it seeming like it was separating. Right. Which I assume is a dispersion problem. Yeah a lot of met a lot of methel uh ha if you have do you have a vita prep no I don't yeah so methylcel is kind of a pain to uh to disperse so one of the um unless you have like a you know very good uh blender so one way to to nicely disperse disperse methyl is to mix it with uh a quantity of corn syrup or sugar and then blend it in to keep the particles separated.
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+[28:00] Another way is to go uh hot cold, so put the methyl cell into something very hot because it won't dissolve in stuff that's very hot. And then like like blend it and then add like cold or chilled stuff to drop the temperature and then it'll hydrate. And then uh the last resort you'll notice in a lot of methyl cell recipes if you look at them, they'll basically tell you to make the mixture and then let it sit overnight. And uh a lot of hydration problems with methell can be um can be fixed by by letting it sit overnight. Now the difference in taste of methyl between I I I look I don't know whether this is true or not.
+
+[28:36] I know the thickening power of uh of these products is not linear. In other words adding doubling the amount doesn't double the thickness it's uh it's a lot more than that. And I have a feeling and I don't know why this would be the case but it's my feeling that taste wise with methyl it's the same thing. So 0.2 is going to taste like a lot more than point six but my feeling is point six isn't going to be enough to get a nice stable meringue foam out of it, right? So I would say try like eight point nine but not above.
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+[29:04] The other thing I'm gonna say is that is that it's a whipping agent in that it actually helps to stabilize uh um uh air you know foams but you're also gonna want uh some solids in there that uh provide a structure so in when we use fruit puree's it's basically pectin mixtures that are providing that structure to you so if you don't a lot of people add bulking agents like maltodextrin to their uh stuff to get them to whip up to a nice uh to have like to have structure left when uh you've dehydrated if that makes sense because there's not enough methyl cell there to provide the structure. So you what you're looking at is the methyl cell is basically a a whipping aid and also it's holding the structure until it can dehydrate. But you don't want methyl cell being the primary physical structure of the meringues that you're making, or I think you're gonna end up with those kind of a taste problems. Got it. Should that make sense?
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+[30:02] Several things to try, yep. Alrighty, and uh let us know let us know what happens. I just don't like those E those E15 or E4M films, uh films that much. It's I mean like some people do like them, so don't write in and say that I'm a jerk for saying it's just it's not my preference. I'm allowed, right?
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+[30:17] Absolutely. All right. Thanks for calling. What? I uh did the uh combu wrapped duck this weekend we talked about last week.
+
+[30:26] Was it delicious? Awesome. Good awesome, nice. Yep. I got that trick from I got that trick from Nils and it's delicious.
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+[30:33] Yeah, I'm gonna wrap everything. I'm gonna wrap you know brownies in combo from now on. I know it's good stuff. Yeah, great. All right.
+
+[30:41] All right, thank you. Okay. Is there another collar, Jack? Yes. Oh caller, you're on the air.
+
+[30:48] Hi. Just wanted to say thank you. You guys have been hitting it for 60 shows. Appreciate it. Oh, hey, thanks.
+
+[30:53] Thanks for calling in. Uh in the combu wrapped uh Ahhi tuna that I went and caught was amazing. Yeah. Perfect. How how long how long was it wrapped?
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+[31:03] Uh I wrapped it with some combu that was caught for just down the ocean from it. So yeah, it was pretty pretty dang amazing. Appreciate it. How long do you leave it? Overnight?
+
+[31:12] What's that? Do you left it over? Nice. Beautiful. And then we we just did sashimi with it.
+
+[31:19] But um my main question is um making hot sauce, and right now I'm using my my Vitamix blender, but I need to obviously move that forward a little bit. What what's the next thing I'm gonna look for to make like a like a sriracha style hot sauce? Huh. I don't have equipment. Oh, uh I don't have any recipes off the top of my head.
+
+[31:41] Well, what kind of problems are you have? I want equipment. I want to know what what homogenizer, etc. Oh me, you want it even finer than you can get it in a Vita prep? It's just I need to make more.
+
+[31:51] Oh, size. Well, they make like how much do you need to make? Like what are we talking about here? I'd like to do five gallons at a time. Wow.
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+[32:01] Five gallons at a time. Yes. I'm gonna go in business here. Yeah, there's okay, let me think. They're I mean, they make obviously large uh style uh things, but they're not gonna get it as fine as a uh a Vita prep does.
+
+[32:17] But they're I was looking at large rotor staters, but those are expensive. Oh, they're very expensive. You might want to look, there's there's there's basically something in between a blender and a food processor that I haven't seen much in um in America, but in Europe they have them a lot. I and I forget who makes who makes them, but they're basically like two uh food processor blades stacked up but in like a five-gallon drum, and they sit on the floor and they're priced for restaurants. Uh I don't know how fine they can go, but I had some chefs from Australia and Europe tell me that they're like the greatest thing since uh since sliced bread.
+
+[32:55] And what's cool is they tilt. So you put your s you you top load your stuff, hit go, and then um and then it it tilts it out. Now I'm not exactly sure um what level of you know particle breakdown because the the the thing you're how many microns we can get you. Right. Um yeah, because the I mean rotor staters are they're they're expensive and they're not good at breaking down large, large things because they have to fit into the gaps.
+
+[33:25] So you're gonna need to do some initial breakdown anyway. You know and if you want to go really badass, they have basically inline uh like I think they have inline inline rotor stator jobs where basically you you you pre-pulp your stuff and then you stick it through the rotor stator and just goes through and gets completely annihilated. But that's not that big to begin with, so uh I just need to break down those hard seeds. Yeah, and the pepper. Yeah, and I'm like uh you want to actually physically disintegrate seeds.
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+[33:56] I don't think that this thing is gonna I don't think that this that the the Robo Roboku like thing is gonna work on it. Um the other good thing is if you're actually gonna get a big piece of equipment, unless you're just gonna do a straight e b eBay buy, what you do is is you call them and you say, here's what I'm looking to do, who's got one? And then you go and you look at it and you see what you know what kind of it can do. Uh and you and once you make the next leap into like more expensive equipment, they're usually okay with that because they know that they're gonna get uh a customer uh out of you. Do you know what I'm saying?
+
+[34:32] Yeah, like I'd like to spend you know a thousand, maybe fifteen hundred bucks to get everything going, but oh yeah, no, it's gonna be more than that for that. Like another, you know, if you're making five gallons at a time, so I'm trying to think of like custom solutions. Even a gallon I might be able to live with, but right now the vita prep's just it's it's a lot of work. Well, they make a much bigger vita prep. Um they make one that's I think three times the capacity that I think does like like uh four liters or something like that.
+
+[34:59] And that one's in that range of like you know, fifteen hundred bucks or something like that. Um that's a big vital prep. Yeah, it's much bigger. I haven't I haven't used it, but one more qu quick question on the hot sauce thing is uh how do you measure garlicness? I mean we have scobile units for heat.
+
+[35:14] But uh how do we measure garlicness? Well, it's it's an interesting and a difficult question because garlic is not stable, like garlic chemistry is very, very uh Yeah, the elephant breaks down and all the other. And so I don't know how at what point it's considered stable, like at what like how many, you know, weeks or months it's considered stable, but you're also measuring the pungency is measured in in different ways. Uh it's been uh and I can't even keep them in my head, like the minute I read it, it goes out. But uh Eric Eric Block, I think, his book on garlic and other alliums.
+
+[35:55] Um I mean, it's just really a lot of complicated stuff to wade through. And so it's uh, you know, great thing about capsation is is that it is um you know, it's fairly stable, and so it's easy to characterize and Scoville's fairly easy for people to measure. Similarly with hops, you know, IBUs, international bitterness units are fairly easy to kind of get a hold on what's going on, and they make a lot of sense. Garlic, on the other hand, I don't know what the what the pungency rating of uh garlic is. It's probably measured as like a free percentage of like Allen and or whatever it is.
+
+[36:28] You know what I mean? Um but I don't I've never heard of anyone rating it that way in terms of uh trying to s to make a standard. Uh which is a pain because different kinds of garlic have different levels of like radically different levels of pungency, and so it's gonna be difficult to control that way. Right, right, right. You know, I mean?
+
+[36:48] Like Well, I appreciate I'll go ahead. Yeah, I have a bunch of hardneck garlic I just got from uh the farm that uh Thanksgiving farm that Cesare Casella works in, and it's it's baby twice as it's twice as you know powerful in terms of that awesome garlic flavor as like the normal crap I get out of the supermarket. But yeah, we picked up some from the Berkeley seed bank. It's uh I think it was uh Moroccan garlic or something weird like that. But it's holy crap, is this powerful.
+
+[37:13] I know it. And you know, it's too powerful to my wife who's not used to it. I love it. But um it's interesting. If uh let next time I speak to McGee, which is actually gonna be in two days, because I'm going up to the Harvard to give another uh Oh, he's gonna be there?
+
+[37:26] Yeah, Mickey's gonna be there. Yeah. I'll ask him about it because that's the kind of thing he's interested in too. And if I ask him about it, I'll I'll try to remember talking about on the show next time. Well, ask him about popping sorghum too.
+
+[37:37] Popping sorghum. Why it was were we talking? Oh, was I talking about it out here? Because I just had a conversation about this with somebody. Terrible inconsistency.
+
+[37:45] I love the stuff, but I can't get it consistent. I think it's just my distributors are different ages of sorghum. Right, different and different probably moisture contents. You know, you can equilibrate you can equilibrate grain, it takes a while, but you can equilibrate grain to a specific moisture content. I don't have the protocols in in the top of my head, but it's probably uh moisture contents your problem.
+
+[38:06] Ah, so I can I remoisturize it? Yeah, it just takes a while. It just takes a while. Like you carry it in the bag or something. Yeah, I don't know.
+
+[38:14] Like you look you look up on Google, like uh Google procedures for uh because it's called temper they temper grains out to particular uh moisture levels for industrial processes because you know, for instance, for puffing or extruding, if it's not exactly the same every time, like everything goes to hell. Right, right, right. Yeah, I noticed that one. Well, I can talk to you all day, but I really appreciate the answers. Thank you.
+
+[38:36] Call it call in if you have any more results. I will do. All right. Now, where was I? Preserved lemons?
+
+[38:42] Yep. All right. So preserved lemons, we're talking about Johnny Kirch preserved lemons, and basically he puts them in the uh vacuum machine, uh salt, lemon juice, lemons, uh, gets it down to about 20 millibar. I'm assuming he puts cuts into the lemons, because usually people put cuts into the lemons. Anywho, he does this about three times, uh, and then he uh bags them and seals them.
+
+[39:01] Oh, so he just puts them with juice and salt in the container, vax them without a bag, and then and then uh vax them down in a bag. Uh it seems to make sense. Decrease the oxygen level might speed the process of preservation. Also, if you could help me understand uh the point, some people freeze their lemons when they're preserving. What's the point of that?
+
+[39:17] I would appreciate it. Okay. So here's what's going on. Uh when you vac the the the reason you want to vacuum bag uh preserve things, whether it be kimchi, sauerkraut, preserved lemon, is that uh they like to be in oxygen free environments. Not that it speeds it, is that you can get all flavors if there is uh oxygen and the bacteria that are growing there want to be anaerobic anyway.
+
+[39:36] So uh vacuum bagging is a good way to not have to worry about weighting things down in jars and making sure they're covered with their own juices and things like that. So that like when you're making a pickles or or anything like that, there's always instructions to like load it down, cover it to make sure they're covered, and that's to exclude air. If you bag it in a vacuum machine, uh you get rid of that problem. Another great thing about a vacuum machine is uh the vacuum machine by doing kind of rapid infusion of any liquids that's there, can help get the salt and whatnot into the uh fleshy part of the fruit much faster, right? Uh and basically just kickstart those operations very quickly.
+
+[40:08] Now, the point of freezing a preserved lemon uh preparation, like uh Alex Talbot does, for instance, in his uh ideas and food cookbook, is uh you're breaking down that by repetitive freeze thawing, you're breaking down and tenderizing the the te uh texture of the uh of the product. It's gonna speed any sort of preservation if you are gonna do a longer keep to keep get have them ferment a little bit. Uh and it's also uh gonna change the flavor uh of the fruit a little bit. And we've done this with with our frozen and thawed lemons that we think I think they smell more like uh bergamot, like uh like Earl Grey, uh after they've been frozen and thawed. Um so that's what that's what that's all about.
+
+[40:47] But a traditional preserved lemon is a function of time because there are yeast and I believe it's uh like symbiotic yeast and like I think acetic acid bacteria. I think yeast makes alcohol, very salt tolerant, acid tolerant yeast makes small quantities of alcohol, which are then uh digested by bacteria, which I think make acetic acid. But uh this is coming off my memory. I didn't have time to research it this morning. I think that's what's going on.
+
+[41:11] And so um, you know, a preserved a traditional preserved lemon pickle is going to uh be a lot different from anything that you kind of shortchange or quick cut. Um should we take one more commercial break? No. We have to finish. Jack, do we have to finish or can we take one more commercial break?
+
+[41:27] Uh yeah, take another break. All right, we'll take another break. We'll come back, call your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. Many guys have come to you with a line that wasn't true, and new pass them by stem by though you're in the series.
+
+[42:09] And welcome back to Cooking Issues. Uh, you like that? I come off that really mellow song with a screaming intro. Anyway. Uh we need to have an announcer.
+
+[42:17] I guess you want to be the announcer? No, I I want to have Phil Bravo. Well, we have a friend Phil Bravo, not good for much, but probably would be a good announcer. Right? I mean, everyone's good for something.
+
+[42:29] Anyway. Phil Bravo. Anyway. So Scott Hansma uh writes in and he says, uh, I'd like to make a uh transglutaminase that's uh meat glue, turduck in breast, and then cook it sous-vide or low temp, actually. I wouldn't do it sous-vide, I'd do it low temp.
+
+[42:43] Uh but the temperature for duck is very different than for chicken and turkey. Uh two ideas I have were to do the whole thing confit style, which would probably be pretty awesome, but I was hoping for a roast type texture. Or I thought about pre-cooking the chicken and turkey piece and then gluing it to the raw duck. But will the TG glue to the cooked meat? It will, not as strong, but it will.
+
+[43:02] Uh, or could I sous vide the whole thing to duck temperature with the duck in the center and then roast it to the other parts to a higher temp, but that's gonna be hard to get precisely right. Any other ideas? What do you recommend besides not doing it? Scott Hansbaum. Okay, well, uh, you're in luck because this is one of the recipes that uh I actually make quite a bit.
+
+[43:21] And the you uh hit one of the secrets there. The secret is to arrange the meats in the order that they want to cook. That's the secret. So uh what you do is you take turkey ski, this is what I do anyway. Take a turkey skin, I lay the uh lay the turkey skin out, then I I slice uh thin and pound out turkey breast, which I then uh meat glue in a layer on the skin.
+
+[43:44] Uh, then I put uh a layer of chicken breast and then a layer of uh sausage force meat, then a layer of duck, and then a squab in the center. Nils and I used to do this at like every Sous-Vide class, so we've done it dozens of times. Uh and then you roll the whole thing into one giant tube, uh, and then you put it into a water bath at 64 degrees Celsius, which is what the turkey wants to cook to with a thermometer in the center. And when the squab makes it up to 56 Celsius, you pull the whole thing out, and every piece of meat all the way through is cooked exactly the way you want it. The turkey's cooked to about 64, the chicken's cooked to 63.
+
+[44:23] Uh, the sausage meat goes between about 63 and about 58. Uh the duck goes between about 58 and 57, and the squab goes to 56, and everything's good. You then chill it down a little bit and you deep fry the outside of it to crisp up the skin, and you're good to go. Nastash, you've had that, right? It's very good.
+
+[44:41] It's good, right? That is the way to do it. The other way to do it is to take then the leg meats and do a total comfy of the leg meats, right? And since those are going to a high temperature anyway, that one you can just roll in a plastic tube, confie it at like 82 Celsius for uh or 85 Celsius for you know a couple of hours to get it cooked, pull it out, and I would serve them side by side, and that would be straight up delicious. We've never done that, but that would mean I'm telling you right now, that would be delicious.
+
+[45:08] Now, some tricks. I would I would make a miniature roll first of the squab and the duck and then place it in and then uh roll it in sausage and then roll the larger roll because the whole trick is centered on uh on getting the squab in the exact center, right? But that's the way you do it. You arrange it in concentric circles and uh it's uh delicious, good business. Um see what we have here.
+
+[45:34] Uh Joseph writes in, Dave, I'm thinking of cooking pork chops with apple juice concentrate, and was wondering if you have any experience with this combination. I mean, I've cooked uh hams in apple cider before, that was good. I'm assuming cooking a chop in apple juice concentrate is is going to be good as well. You're gonna want to be careful if you're doing a high temperature, if you use anything concentrated with a lot of sugar, you're gonna get a lot of scorching problems. If you're doing a low temp, you're gonna want to use it concentrated so it doesn't taste poached.
+
+[45:58] You're gonna get probably some flavor transfer, but I'm not sure how much. And then when you, if you're gonna do a post-sear as opposed to a braise, you're gonna get in trouble with again with scorching. So anytime you're dealing with high sugar glazes, uh, unless you like burnt sugar taste, which some people do, which is why they put barbecue sauce on their meats before they grill them, because they like a burnt sugar taste. It's just something to be aware of. But apple and pork, I mean, you can't get more classic than apple and pork, can you?
+
+[46:22] No. Can't be can't possibly get more classic than that. Okay, uh Dave, we get this from Jason. Dave, I cure meats at home rather successfully, he might add. Uh, he often cures uh pork, beef, goat, and lamb.
+
+[46:34] A hunter at work has offered uh me his next deer, which I promptly thought about curing into deer prosciutto, uh salami, brasala, etc. etc. I have one concern. I thought wild deer often have parasites. Do you know if freezing will kill these parasites?
+
+[46:47] If so, what temperature and for how long? The same question applies if I want a low temp cook some deer steaks. What's the minimum time temp for whatever parasites deer have? So any low temperature uh cooking that's gonna kill bacteria is gonna kill parasites. So you're not gonna worry about parasites in a cooked thing as long as you've cooked them properly.
+
+[47:06] I try to do some initial research, and you know, deer can carry tapeworms and other parasites, but they typically won't jump to humans. You get a lot of bacterial contamination through shooting and things like that if the guts uh done are through poor slaughtering. Uh and so and there have been outbreaks of bacteria-related problems due to uh beef jerky, uh venison jerky. So in something that's not gonna be cooked or salted enough or properly cured to kill all bacteria, you're gonna want to uh you're gonna want to do a cook step like when you're doing venison jerky. But for freezing, if there are uh sort of any sort of worms or parasites that are there, freezing should kill them.
+
+[47:45] Freezing does not kill bacteria, which is why freezing is not a good bacterial kill for doing uh dry cured meats, but freezing is a good uh kill for trichinosis and for tapeworm cysts. Now, I don't think there have been any cases of tapeworm cysts, uh tapeworms developing from deer to people. You got deer to dogs and you've gotten dogs to people, but I don't know that you've gotten deer to people, but maybe. Uh in which case I've seen recommendations of a hard freeze, very you know, low, like zero or lower Fahrenheit for like uh, you know, like well over a day. That I couldn't find them anymore because Clemson used to have this stuff online and they changed their site and I couldn't get it anymore.
+
+[48:24] Uh but uh take a look. I mean, um it's something you worry a little bit about, but I wouldn't worry too much about. Uh anyway, okay. Uh last question of the day, I've got two minutes. John Blue writes in hello, pecan prolines were a traditional dessert of Mexican settling in Texas way back in the day, because that's all apparently uh was necessary was pecans, water, and sugar, and apparently they had uh sugar, which is weird, but they had sugar in the hepicons.
+
+[48:46] Uh replicating this with uh pleasant results has not been successful. From what I've uncovered, refined sugar was commonly used. I've tried that and brown sugar, demerar, etc. I've tried short cook times and long times. They either end up too watery and won't harden, or too grainy from the sugar.
+
+[49:01] Any suggestions on how to keep the sugar dissolved while thickening, or how to harden the mixture without adding ingredients? Also, any plans to do a quest for French Fry Supremacy Part Three. Thanks, John Blue. Well, I'm gonna address the French fries first. Uh I'm gonna, you know, we're going to be opening 98% chance we're going to be opening a uh bar concept in an existing place soon.
+
+[49:20] And in it will be uh the R Supreme French Fry, uh, which isn't exactly what's in the blog because I've increased the size of the French fries since we last did it, and it requires a couple different steps. Uh but there will be an opportunity for anyone to come taste our French fries soon. It's true or false, Nash. True. Okay.
+
+[49:37] Uh I'm not I don't know if I'm gonna write about it anytime soon just because I'm so damn busy. Anyway, prolines are interesting. It's a question of what kind of a texture you want. Some people's pralines are uh hard, the sugar is hard, and some people's prolines, the sugar texture is very s is fairly soft, almost akin to a maple sugar. And the difference between them is how crystallized the sugar is.
+
+[49:57] So I'm just gonna go into general because I don't know exactly how you you want them, right? If you want hard sugar that breaks, like peanut brittle, you don't want uh basically any crystallization hardly at all. You want it to form into hard candy. And for that you want to minimize stirring and you're gonna want to add the nuts late or basically pour this stuff over top the nuts, right? And then you're gonna get a minimum amount of crystals uh forming.
+
+[50:20] You're gonna want to do very little stirring of your sugar before the uh before everything dissolves because you don't want big sugar crystals that then all of a sudden go back into the pot and form large crystals to uh to get seeds, uh seed crystals, right? If you want something more fudgy, you cook it all, you get it totally clean, and then you do stir it as it's cooling, and by stirring as it's cooling, you initiate the formation of lots of small crystals that give a fudgy texture. So, i it all depends. You're gonna have to write it and tell me exactly what kind of praline you want to hit, what kind of a texture you want to hit. But if it's getting too grainy, add the nuts much, much later in your process, even at the end.
+
+[50:57] And if you want it fudgy, follow more fudge-like procedures of stirring, letting it cool somewhat, and then stirring it to generate small crystals. And if you want it to be fairly clear, except for I don't know if you're adding any cream or milk-based stuff to it, then you're gonna want to uh do a minimal amount of stirring, make sure all of your crystals are dissolved, and then manipulate it the smallest amount uh you can before you uh pour it out and let it set. Uh, but let us know exactly what you're looking at, John, and we'll try to uh troubleshoot a little more. This has been cooking issues. Fishers fish.
+
+[51:40] Oh, you didn't Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening.
+
+[52:13] The following it's a public service announcement from Food Karma. To kick off the New York City Meat Week in style, Meet with a Twist will bring together the best chefs and mixologists for a cocktail food pairing party on November 7th, from 6 to 10 PM at City Winery. Meet with a twist features 10 cocktails paired with 10 chef selections, highlighting local, sustainably grown meats such as duck, lamb, chicken, pork, beef, bison, and ostrich. The party will launch a week's worth of events throughout the city that celebrate the slow food movement, bringing sustainable meats to our tables. Again, that's November 7th from 6 to 10 p.m.
+
+[52:44] at City Winery. Updates, tickets, and more information are available at MeatWeekNYC.com.
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+[0:03] Broadcasting live from Roberta's in Bushwick, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. Bringing you pizza live from Robert's Indie Jesus. Oh, you did that. Got me on this corner.
+
+[0:34] And welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cookie Issues. I was on the air with that. That's awesome. Yeah, we got a little piece of that.
+
+[0:41] Alright, alright, so here's here's how it works, folks. My headphones weren't on, and usually when my headphones aren't on, no one can hear what I'm saying, so I can say whatever uh whatever I want. And there is a waiter here at Robert's. Who, I mean, doesn't wear the same clothing as Jesus, you know, uh, but basically looks like, you know, Indy Rock Indy Rock Jesus. Am I right about this?
+
+[1:04] Robert Plan Jesus. Yes. Yeah, yeah. Anyway. And welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[1:09] Okay. And and you can come down to Roberta's, which I highly recommend, and have a pizza served to you by Indie Jesus on any given Tuesday. Uh okay. So uh coming to you live from Roberta's Pizzeria uh on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from roughly 12 to roughly 1245. Can we say that?
+
+[1:29] Is that accurate? Yeah, I had a little running with the M train and then jogged over here. Uh my fault. I should have just left earlier. But I was at home researching all of my listeners' questions.
+
+[1:39] What do you listeners? What do we call them? Listeners? Listeners. Anyway, joined as usual in the studio by uh with uh Nastasha the Hammer Lopez.
+
+[1:46] How you doing? Rough. Rough? We were out. Rough.
+
+[1:49] Well, cooking issues had a late night last night. Uh we were doing the eater awards, and uh we made uh milk soup, right? It's a Colombian soup, changua. I think I talked about it on the air. I I made it in Colombia, and they wanted something with eggs and pears, and so we did that.
+
+[2:05] So it was like, you know, milk and chicken stock and fish sauce and uh little lime, poached egg, and uh some stuff, like uh vacuum-infused pears with um with uh, you know, some uh what's that stuff called? What my brain is on is on hold today. You know, the Spanish pepper, pimenton uh oil and uh cilantro oil and cilantro and vacuum-infused onions, you know, all that good stuff. Oh, and corn nuts, by the way. I'm bringing corn nuts back.
+
+[2:32] By the way, that's my job for the rest of my life is to make corn nuts come back because corn nuts are some delicious product. Anywho, so um basically, if you're ever gonna do one of these events, uh, here's what you should do. Everyone else did this, right? They made up a little sign about what they were making. They, you know, with it.
+
+[2:49] I swear to Christ, I shouldn't say that in the air. Like next next to us, right, was Red Farm. The the dim sum guy there made a miniature village out of dough. Different colors of dough. Man did not paint any of those little figures.
+
+[3:04] I'm talking like like absurdly detailed miniature people holding pandas with like flowers out of dough, all on a bed of of like pink peppercorns and like with like these weird flowers that look like tree bonsai things. The lady next to us had you know, like eight million year old candle drippings like Vincent Price House of Wax kind of business, spray painted gold. We had nothing. Ninda, nothing. And we show up, and not only do we have nothing, we don't even write down what we're serving.
+
+[3:36] So the entire time we had to just sit there and give the whole long shebang spiel of what the hell we were doing. By the end, we were just dancing in our booth going, milk soup, milk soup, get your milk soup, milk soup. Right? Pretty much. Anywho.
+
+[3:51] So I highly recommend making a sign before you go out to one of these events. Also, uh been a busy week. We were we were up at the Harvard uh with uh Harold McGee uh and John, his son, who's a TA for that class, uh doing the uh what were we doing, drinks? Mm-hmm. How do you think that went?
+
+[4:06] I think it went well. Yeah, I think it went well. I think they enjoyed it up there, the drinks. Although I wasn't allowed to serve any oh, check this. All right, look.
+
+[4:14] The Harvard undergrads, now I know that like, you know, you know, universities, I remember back that long ago, universities, they get all, you know, they get their privates all bunched up about uh underage drinkers, right? You know, uh, and uh so we weren't allowed to serve any liquor, even to students who were over 21, which I was fine with. But check this, it's like some sort of weird, like 70s beer commercial. I'm not allowed to taste what I'm working on. It's absurd, right?
+
+[4:41] Absurd. Absurd. Anyway, uh so uh enough of uh what we've been except for I'll tell you one more thing that's interesting. Uh Nastasha just went to see Fishbone. This is not a cooking related.
+
+[4:52] Oh, by the way, you should call in your questions. Two 718-497-2128. That's 718497-2128. Okay, so um uh Nastasha went to go see Fishbone, which was one of my my favorite bands growing up. Nastasha from Los Angeles never listened to Fishbone or the Chili Pepper.
+
+[5:11] She hates anything that's local, by the way. She's like an anti-local person. Like, if it was around when she was a kid, she hates it. You know what I mean? Like, you know, tacos, she hates them because she's from LA.
+
+[5:20] You know what I mean? Fishbone, she didn't listen to it. Why? Because she's from LA. Me, East Coast guy my whole life, grew up listening to kind of that West Coast uh ska funk punk kind of stuff.
+
+[5:31] Anyway, Fishbone Seminole Band. I'm happy to report to my listeners out there that Fishbone still rocks after all these years, right? Yeah. They were hardcore. Their horn playing was so tight back in the day that you could have put a anyway, whatever.
+
+[5:44] Um to the questions. All right. Hi, Dave and Nastasha. I've got a couple of sausage questions for you today. Some sausage recipes call for the addition of soy protein or milk powder to help with moisture retention during cooking.
+
+[5:58] I've got an excellent Bratwurst recipe. Bratz. Bratwurst. Bratwurst recipe right now that I always get good results and juicy results from. I'm wondering if I should try and tweak the recipe by adding some milk powder or soy protein.
+
+[6:10] Maybe it will be even better. You know, this is from Matthew, and he has a second part, but I don't think so. Um I don't think you need to uh no, no. What do you think? No.
+
+[6:19] I don't think you need to kind of enchepen it. I mean, look, you you if you're if your stuff is juicy now, right? Then I don't see the point of adding like a filler or extender. Milk pro milk protein, it's okay. Uh you know, if I don't know.
+
+[6:35] I just wouldn't do it. I wouldn't do it. Soy protein, I definitely wouldn't do. Taste it. Does it taste delicious?
+
+[6:40] Is it making your sausage more delicious, right? If your sausage is already juicy and you don't need any additional Oh my god, Indy Jesus is coming by the stuff coming by the station. If you don't need the additional binding power, uh don't use it. That's my feeling. What do you think, Nastasha?
+
+[6:56] He looks at his reflection. All right. For those of you, which is everyone who who uh doesn't know what we're talking about, like we basically, here in the radio station, we look through uh a window at whomever is eating in the kind of like faux outside enclosed, you know, backyard of uh of Roberta's pizzeria. So you know, on break, we will often make comments to ourselves about the guests and or the weight staff. True?
+
+[7:22] True? Okay. Uh okay, matt back to Matthew. When I cook my bratwurst, I usually gently poach them in beer, good call, before browning them on the grill. Also a good call.
+
+[7:30] An issue that comes up is they tend to swell and the meat ends up poking out of the ends of the casing. One suggestion I got was to let the sausages air dry a little after stuffing them. This would dry them out uh a little bit, and thus when they rehydrate during cooking, they will not swell as much. I'd like to hear your thoughts on this. I don't know that um I don't know that uh that the issue with uh sausage bursting is uh a rehydration of the meat issue.
+
+[7:53] I think it's basically a swelling, um, probably swell swelling of the air pockets that are inside of your uh of your bratwurst. Now, if you make the texture denser by like vacuuming the meat before you put it in, you probably get less swelling. Um I think what what you're doing when you when you're letting it dry out a little bit, lose some of its weight, is you're just uh providing a little extra space in the casing for expansion, because it's still gonna expand the same amount if the same amount of air is in there. At least that's my feeling. I don't know.
+
+[8:22] This is just off the cuff. So uh, or you could stuff them a little less tight and they're not gonna burst. Also, I would recommend probably poaching at a lower, I don't know. When you say gently poach, um, I don't know what you mean by gently. I would, when I do brats uh or any kind of sausage, I think I've mentioned this on the air, uh, you want to get an immersion circulator, uh, and you can put your beer directly in the immersion circulator, or you could put a small amount of beer in a bag uh with uh the brats and circum at um uh 140 degrees uh Fahrenheit, which is 60 Celsius.
+
+[8:54] That's the magic one you should all remember. I don't care if you can't do Celsius and Fahrenheit, you should just remember 60, 140. Just remember that. Anyway, um the other magic one I always remember for some reason is 57135. Anyway, so I would circum at uh 140 uh 60 Celsius for like you know, 40 minutes, something even longer.
+
+[9:13] You can go. This is actually going to okay. So look, when you're making a sausage, the whole idea of grinding up the meat is to take uh tougher other things and flavorful things, uh make them you know join together into kind of a more homogenous mixture, but also to tenderize by grinding, right? Uh and you add a lot of fat to keep the sausage uh moist even after it's cooked, because you know, sausage if it didn't have a lot of fat would dry out. With a circulator, you can tenderize the actual individual particles of meat by cooking longer, and you don't need you should keep the fat in because the fat's delicious, but you're not gonna need the fat just from a simply a juice standpoint, from a juiciness standpoint.
+
+[9:49] So uh it's like a double win. So if you get a circulator, I would cook your brats with a circulator. You could do them in beer and then uh and then cook them off on your on your grill. What do you think? Good, good.
+
+[9:59] All right, anyway. Um Keith Solomon from how do you pronounce that? When winetka winetka, Illinois, uh writes in and he says, per our request to please write in some questions. Uh, I'm one of those who listens every week via podcast. I have a question about taste.
+
+[10:15] Well, thank you for listening. Uh, why uh why does so much fish always have that frozen taste? I know that you can get good frozen frozen fish. What is the secret? Um and also Thanksgiving is coming up.
+
+[10:28] Why is so much uh deli turkey so awful? It can't be that hard to make turkey taste like turkey. Well, here's the here's the deal with deli turkey. It's just bad. You know what I mean?
+
+[10:38] It's like they uh they they're forced to kind of overcook the turkey um, you know, per per the regulations that they do, and so to make up for that, they have to like hit it with a bunch of stuff to keep the moisture levels high enough after they overcook it. And it's just, you know, it's just not turkey. And then they slice it preposterous. It's just not, it's just not turkey. It's not turkey.
+
+[11:00] What do you guys think? Anyone in anyone here think that stuff's turkey? No. No. And you know where you should get your turkey this year, right?
+
+[11:06] You should get it from Heritage Foods. Actually, you know what? Heritage Foods turkeys are delicious. Do we still have those or are they sold out, Jack? No, we've still got some.
+
+[11:14] Yeah. Patrick just got back from Kansas City. Well, is that like the turkey capital? Yeah, it's turkey. Turkey Capital.
+
+[11:20] Turkey Capital. Yeah, the turkeys here at Heritage, and you know, not to pump our own brand or nothing, but the turkeys we get here are uh are are pretty damn good. I mean, I didn't pay for mine last year. I stole it from Patrick actually when he wasn't looking, but it was a delicious turkey. Oh, also, speaking of pumping, you know who came to the event yesterday?
+
+[11:36] Tim Musick from JB Prince, Chef Superstore came to um our event and gave us a sauce funnel to use at the event. Sauce funnel, by the way, a sauce gun, is basically a funnel with with a little stick that sits in the bottom of it. These things should cost like a dollar fifty cents, but they cost like $150 for some reason. And so everyone always resists purchasing one because they're just so damned expensive. And if you're working at a school, they tend to get lost.
+
+[12:02] Um, however, they are like the world's greatest thing. I wish my hands was cons were constructed out of them because you can just dump unbelievable like accurate, fast portions of anything liquid out of these suckers. So we did, you know, our 400 uh portions of soup, and I didn't spill a drop until someone asked me a question, and I leaned over on the funnel and it actually opened it onto the table. Did you see that? No, you didn't catch that?
+
+[12:25] Thank God. Because she would not let me forget it. Anyway, sauce gun, uh, like the greatest thing in the whole in the whole damn world, and uh you can purchase it at the JB Prince. I'm gonna get back to my uh whose question is this. Keith's question after our first break.
+
+[12:41] This is a house that Jack built. Remember the south. This was the land that it works by hand. It was the dream of it, a bright man. There was a room that was filled with love.
+
+[12:57] It was a love that I was proud of. This is a life and a lot better plan. On the love of the same old love in the house that jackets, the house to justice, the member this house. Now the fence is that a hell down love. Yes, it was the gate that it walked out of.
+
+[13:20] This is the law that I decided. You know, I brought it on myself out. But it is funny that I didn't understand. And that was The House that Jack built by Aretha Franklin. An actual request from uh one of our listeners.
+
+[13:53] You can call in your request, we'll take them. We don't care. We like that song, and uh Jack especially likes that song because it's the house that he built. That's for Lee Calder. Yeah, you know, Aretha Franklin, afraid of flying in such a severe way that she has to drive a bus wherever she goes to go on tour.
+
+[14:07] Did you know this? Did you know this? Anyway. Today's episode number sixty-two, which by the way, sixty-two, you can now cook a low temperature uh pork belly and listen exclusively to uh cooking issues broadcast while you do it. I don't recommend doing that, but if you stayed up for 62, basically, you know, cooking issues straight, cooking your uh pork belly, low temp, you would have a nice pork belly.
+
+[14:35] Well, it's just that's how many hours of of BS that we've spewed over the air. It takes 62 hours to cook. Well, we don't have a full hour, but it's like rough. It depends. Look, it'll I'm just lying.
+
+[14:43] It depends on what temperature you do. But anyway, today's episode is sponsored again by our friends at Modernist Pantry, supplying innovative ingredients for the modern cooked. You love to experiment with new cooking techniques and ingredients, but hate to overspend for pounds of supplies when only a few grams are needed per application. I wish we could call these guys. You know, the school doesn't have any of their hydrocolloids left right now.
+
+[15:03] They have nothing, and I have to go to a Nate. We're doing look, right after this episode, we're going to do an event with uh Nathan Miravold at the FCI and Maxine Belay. And we could use some Modernist Pantry Love right now because they have no uh Kelco gel F, gel Anne left. They have no flavor-free guar. Anyway, it's pathetic.
+
+[15:19] Anyway, Modernist Pantry offers a wide range of modern ingredients and packages that make sense for the home cook or enthusiast, and most cost only around five bucks, saving you time, money, and storage space. Whether you're looking for hydrocolloids, pH buffers, or even meat glue. You'll find it at Modernist Pantry. And if you need something that they don't carry, just ask. Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you with inexpensive shipping to any country in the world.
+
+[15:42] Modernist Pantry is your one-stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients. Modernist Pantry now carries ingredients for curing, including two types of prague powder and pure sodium nitrate. Fans of cooking issues a place in order of thirty-five dollars or more before next week's show, we'll get a free package of Prague Powder number one. Simply use the promo code CI62. That's CI62 and placing your order online at modernist pantry.com.
+
+[15:59] Visit modernist pantry.com today for all of your modernist cooking needs. So when I by the way it's uh collar. Oh, this color? All right, when I when we're done with color, I gotta talk about prague powder. Collar, you're on the air.
+
+[16:15] Oh, great. Well, thanks for being late, I was too. Nice. All right. So uh yeah, lift all your shoes.
+
+[16:24] Got the number memorized even. Beautiful. Nice. So what do you what do you got for me? Oh, yeah.
+
+[16:32] I uh yeah, filled it in a jar, vaced it with uh a few tablespoons of water. Works great now. Except for a few days. A few days? Just took um nice.
+
+[16:41] So it's basically so the thing was like if they were too dry, couple like a couple tablespoons of water for like what size? Like a liter mason jar or something like that? Yeah, yeah. And then just let it equilibrate for a couple of days at regular ambient temperature. Is it whose phone?
+
+[16:54] That's your phone. It's beautiful. And and and so now now you pop entirely evenly all the way across? I still have a lot of widows. By the way, it worked really wonderfully.
+
+[17:06] Nice uh nice use of the actual technical term for unpopped kernels. Did you know uh many people do not know that an unpopped popcorn kernel, and now I guess also uh by analogy a sorghum uh kernel are called widows, which is an interesting fact. Yeah, yeah. You mentioned that one before, I think. Oh, really?
+
+[17:21] Oh, I don't know. Who knows? I can't remember what to say. So uh bringing back corn nuts. We went to a Peruvian restaurant in uh Sonoma.
+
+[17:30] Right. And they uh they deep fried Peruvian giant corn. Yeah. It was the size of a corn nut, but way lighter. Much bigger than a corn nut.
+
+[17:38] How to trust some of those? Well, the Peru yeah, Peruvians have like several different kind of uh fried uh corn. Like some of them have like a weird papery husk, which I actually kinda like, and some of them are in weird shapes and they're bigger, but like the Peruvians have forgotten more about corn than we'll ever know in terms of uh pop like like crunchy corn snacks. Do you know what I mean? Uh Peru, like you know, Peru is one of those places where uh, you know, I we I need to go.
+
+[18:04] Everyone when you s when you you know you go to South America, they're like, Yeah, you need to go to Peru. You need to go to Peru. That's where it's happened in Peru. But I've never been. So I'm looking uh looking forward someday.
+
+[18:13] The one thing that in Peruvian, I don't know whether I've mentioned it here that's crazy, is they have these uh it's not corn, they have these crazy freeze air freeze dried potatoes that they make up in the mountains that taste like uh mm unwashed goat fur. Is that accurate discussion? Unwashed goat fur. So I think I actually asked this on the air once. I'm looking for anyone out there who has a knowledge of how to actually make these uh f these like uh naturally freeze dried potatoes from Peru taste good, and I haven't had anyone tell me how to do it yet.
+
+[18:46] Do you remember what they're called? Um like chunta chunta something, chunta uh j ja I'm sure Jack will look it up. Anyway, but yeah. So my my main question, the reason I called, I have a boatload of nori. It's raw Nori.
+
+[19:05] What do I do with it? I want to make uh I my I was thought of making like a Nori cracker or something like this, but the stuff tastes uh it's got the texture of a wallet. Yeah, well it it's me, but it's already in sheets, you mean. It it's rolled into sheets. It's not no, no, no, it's raw and oar.
+
+[19:20] Like just taken out of the ocean and dried. Oh, yeah. Yeah. Well, you could I'd like to leave it raw if I could. Yeah.
+
+[19:28] Make some sort of snack food or something out of it. Well, you mean you could rehydrate it and then get it thinner, and then when it dries out, it will be less uh leather wallity. You probably just have too thick of a layer of it. You know what I mean? Well, it's one whatever, I guess a leaf of frown sick.
+
+[19:47] I uh rehydrated it and and uh put it in the dehydrator for a few couple a few times, just cycled it to try to make it weaker, and it's didn't really help a lot. It's still gonna try freezing it next. Still yeah. Yeah, freezing might break it down. I don't know.
+
+[20:01] I don't have any experience with it. Another thing, I mean, obviously you could um you could shop chop it and then and then uh put it into a mat and then dehydrate it and it'll it'll stick together. You know what I mean? Like I'm I'm pretty sure that's how they make the thin the thin sheets, right? The lava sheets is they get a bunch of it and then they they spread it out thin.
+
+[20:19] Hmm. I haven't I don't have any experience with this. I'm gonna have I'm gonna have to put my thinking cap on on this one. Yeah, I thought I'd try to maybe fermenting uh what else could I do? I was gonna grind it into flour, possibly and make crackers.
+
+[20:32] Yeah. Like a fleck crack or something like that. But uh any ideas you have would be. I'll tell you what I'll do sometime during this week. I'm gonna try to remember to look up some seaweed processing technology and I'll try to talk about it on the next week's show.
+
+[20:45] Wonderful. I appreciate it. Thank you. Alrighty, I'll talk to you soon. Alright, I have another caller, apparently.
+
+[20:49] Caller, you are on the air. Uh hey Dave and Nastasha, it's Brian. How are you doing? Doing well, doing well. What's up?
+
+[20:58] Um, so I saw that on the modernist cuisine blog that they posted uh EIY style, what they call uh vacuum concentrating system. And basically what it is is um a vacuum pump. Um the other two with a vacuum pump or what they call an aspirating nozzle that hooks up to uh a vacuum to a flask um that has uh one of those magnetic stirring bars in it, and basically it allows you to um do vacuum kind of reductions or concentrations of of of liquid. So I guess it's not a rotofap, but it's a kind of DIY has. And I'm wondering what you thought uh if you had a look at at that post and what you thought of um and what you thought of it.
+
+[21:46] Is there is there anything I can do to improve what they they have here? Will it work? Um what are your costs? All right, so here's the here's the here's the dealy. Um it works.
+
+[21:57] It's not it doesn't do um distillation in the sense that you it's very difficult to save the distillate because you don't have a cold trap. So the way an aspirator works is you you have a jet of liquid water typically that uh uh goes down and the actual speed of the jet going down sucks the air out, carries the air with it and and goes down. Much like uh you would you know, if you spray air, you can suck paint up into that and then spray it out, right? So it's that that that that's what's going on with an aspirator. Now the in chem labs aspirators are used as a very cheap uh vacuum source, and classically what what you would do is you would screw the aspirator into uh water faucet, you turn it on, and you just dump water down into the sink to produce your vacuum.
+
+[22:42] Okay. Now they people don't like to do that anymore because it wastes ginormous amounts of water, and it's considered, you know, not uh necessarily green to to do that anymore. So people have built aspirators with uh circulating pumps that they can circulate and they can keep the aspirators going without wasting a lot of water. Now, the downsides of uh of an aspirator as a pump is that they're not very uh quick pumps. It takes a long time to pump down to a vacuum.
+
+[23:07] Second thing is an aspirator pump is limited in the number of uh in the the depth of vacuum it can pull by uh the vapor pressure of water at the temperature of the water. So you like if you're using an aspirator, the trick is to get as cold a water as you can, for instance, ice water works great, uh, and then recirculate it to uh achieve a vacuum. Now, if you don't have a cold trap, you're not gonna, like I say, be able to recapture. So it's basically for reduction. And uh in order to get a good reduction and to stop a lot of bumping, you need to do uh a lot of stirring and agitation of your liquid, which is why they use a magnetic uh stir plate, hot plate, right?
+
+[23:40] Um so yeah, it totally works for that, and you know, the the the temperature of your liquid is going to be determined by uh not by the temperature of the hot plate, but by the uh ultimate pressure that your vacuum is able to uh maintain, right? And so you can kind of you can measure that if you want to. So this works, and and it's very important that you use an aspirator pump for this uh technology because it's one of the only types of vacuum pump that uh that can get contaminated by vapor, ethanol vapor or water vapor, without crapping out on you, right? And so that's why they use that kind of a pump for that, um, because uh they're actually not the cheapest kind of pump. There's a much cheaper vacuum pump you can get that does a much better vacuum, but it can't handle the contaminant, it can't handle the contaminants the way that uh way an aspirator pump can.
+
+[24:27] Uh and by contaminants, I mean all the stuff that I like to save in a rotovap. So it definitely, if you look, be an eBay ninja, get yourself a hot plate, they're not that expensive. Get an Erlenmeyer flask with a takeoff on it, also not that expensive. Um, you know, a cap and the aspirator, you can uh you can either buy them, they're not cheap because they and uh they don't come up that often uh with the circulator pump in it already. I mean you can get it, um, but um you can buy uh the actual individual aspirator units and hook up a pump yourself, and I recommend going to um any uh meth head uh like uh methamphetamine production uh website by you know by like these tweak tweet junkies.
+
+[25:07] And uh because they need a vacuum source to do some of their distillation work, and so you know they have uh kindly put plans out there where you can go basically to the Home Depot and build uh an aspirator pump for fairly fairly cheap, you know. Because remember, they need to be able to do this stuff without getting caught, you know, in like trailers and whatnot. So uh, you know, they they have that that pretty locked down. And what are their websites? Oh, I hesitate to actually mention the name of it, but you know, Google like you know, DIY meth lab uh or DIY aspirator.
+
+[25:39] Am I getting in trouble? I'm getting in trouble. I'm I'm tell I'm being told that I'm getting in trouble anyway. Nastasha's shaking her head and making the vegan face. But that is in fact where uh where I learned how to build my own aspirator pump back in the day.
+
+[25:52] And I'm assuming that the feds haven't figured out how to go on and kill all those websites yet, um, even though it has been like six years. But anyway, uh good luck experimenting with that and uh call back and tell us how it works. Okay, I'll uh I'll Google and see if I can get some from the meth head. Alrighty, thanks a lot. Okay, now uh key song, back to Keith's question, which I which I never freaking answered.
+
+[26:18] Okay, so we've we've we've established that the deli turkey is awful because they start with low-quality turkey, overcook it, and pump it up with a bunch of crap to keep it moist, right? Okay, so the other part of uh Matt of uh Keith's question was uh why does so much fish always have a frozen taste? And I know you can get good frozen fish, but what's the secret? All right, there's a couple problems. Here's the thing with fish, and with anything really uh that you freeze.
+
+[26:40] Uh home freezers don't actually freeze everything uh solid. You're only freezing a portion of the wall of the water that's in uh a food, right? And so when you're freezing in a freezer, ice crystals are actually forming on the outside of the cells and in a sense, in essence, dehydrating uh the actual cells in the muscles. And what that means is is that all of the stuff in the cells, proteins, liquids, enzymes, um, uh myoglobin, anything like that, and fats and whatever, whatever's there, is getting more concentrated. And as it's getting more concentrated, even though the temperature is lowing, lowering, certain reactions can take place very quickly.
+
+[27:17] And one of those reactions is rancidity. So what happens is fish typically contains a lot of uh polyunsaturated um fatty acids. Those are the types of fatty acids that are very prone to going rancid. Fish also have a lot of things in them, you know, like blood and whatnot, uh, that are pro that that basically help to catalyze uh rancidity uh reactions in their own fat. So um that thing, that rancid taste is I'm assuming what you're talking about, happens in the freezer just like it would out in uh not I mean I mean it happens slower, obviously, but it still happens even though the thing's frozen, and it's all because fish isn't actually frozen uh like solid down to a hundred percent uh solidity.
+
+[28:03] Okay? Now, there's a couple ways to solve this. Don't store your fish too long in a freezer, that's one, right? Two is to vacuum bag fish before you freeze it because in the absence of oxygen, uh it's gonna be very difficult for the fat to oxidize and go rancid, right? So you want to get rid of air.
+
+[28:19] You want to not store it in the freezer too long, uh if you can't get rid of the air, uh, but you still getting rid of the air is is the main thing. Uh and the the same thing happens with bacon, by the way, bacon goes rancid in the freezer. Um the other unless it's vac packed. Um the other thing is is in the really high quality fish, the sushi stuff, it's frozen solid, is uh they freeze it way down, they superfreeze it to uh I I forget what they call it, they probably call it the eutectic point or something like that, even though I don't even think that has meaning. Anyway, um they they super freeze it down to the point where literally all of the water is solid and the chemical reactions cease to take place at a reasonable rate.
+
+[28:58] And so uh that happens down around minus 70 C. So if you go to like some high-end sushi joints, or if you go to uh Del Posto has one, a bunch of people have these super freezers, and they store their meats in the superfrezers, and there's basically zero temperature cycling, everything is solid, there's no recrystallizing and decrystallizing and recrystallizing, and so the quality stays perfect, right? That's a good answer, right? Okay. Um Jack, should we go to one more break or should I take another question?
+
+[29:27] Yeah, we should. All right, we'll go to one more commercial break. Call your questions too. For this break, we have a uh certain song dedicated to a certain somebody from a certain vegan-faced co-host. All right.
+
+[29:38] So here's that. If I were your woman, and you were my maid. You'd have no other woman. You'd be weak as a land. If you had the strength to walk out that door.
+
+[30:13] My love would overrue my sense. And I call you back for more. If I were you. If I were you. And you were my maid.
+
+[30:32] So who's this? Wait, who is that for? Gladys Knight in the pitch. Yeah, but who is that? I thought it was a reetha.
+
+[30:37] Who requested it for Nastasha? No. No, no, no. This is a dedication from a certain co-host to a certain somebody else. Oh, all right, nice.
+
+[30:47] That's for that's for an episode of Issues. Some secret love going on. You know what you gotta play then? If it's a secret, you gotta pull out the Kenny Rogers, the uh the one where like daytime friends and nighttime lovers hoping no one else discovers. Yeah, it's good stuff, right?
+
+[31:01] Anyway. Uh okay. We have two unrelated questions from uh uh Ryan, right? From Ryan Santos Santos. Uh one, what's the best way to clean my circulator?
+
+[31:10] Answer, it depends on what kind of circulator you have. Uh but uh in general, um the new plastic ones are a little more difficult to clean out the insides of the old stainless steel ones are easy to kind of work with. It you we use you can use a combination of like a CLR, which is like clear uh lime rust remover, you can use uh like a light, like a degreaser, and you can actually circulate these things with with the product. So you circulate it with that, you can get the the uh tabs that are used to clean out combi ovens. Uh basically anything that's gonna eat grease.
+
+[31:41] Uh I mean, obviously, basic solutions uh eat grease very well, but I'm not exactly sure whether or not uh you're you can put um a very very basic solution onto the uh onto the circulators. I have to check it. But basically you run it with detergent uh and a degreaser, like uh, you know, like uh commercial degreaser, and and then you rinse it in water and uh and run it again in hot water and they should clean up. But it is a problem uh that needs to be addressed. I told Philip Preston on the new plastic one, I think he should install little shoulder screws so that you can very easily pop the back off and really clean in and out where the pump is, but not yet.
+
+[32:18] Hasn't done it yet. I'm sure he's gonna do it because I think it's a good idea anyway. Two, I experienced a weird reaction at a recent dinner. I served uh local baby persimmons with a green tea called hojicha, hojicha, hojita, hoji to uh some reaction happened that caused an extreme uh tannin uh tannin reaction and made my mouth super dry and astringent, unlike anything I've experienced. Do you have any idea what's happening?
+
+[32:39] Was it a reaction in the skins in the tea? The reaction didn't happen with water, soda, beer, etc. Well, this is interesting. I mean, well, I mean obviously look, you have tea. T has uh tea has tannins in it, right?
+
+[32:52] And persimmons have tannins in them. And the way uh tannins work is uh they bind to um proteins in uh in your mouth, proline-rich proteins, uh, and uh it those proteins lubricate your mouth. So when the those proteins bind to the tannins, now your mouth feels dry because it's not lubricated anymore, and that's astringency. Okay. Now, uh in persimmons, persimmons naturally have a lot of uh tannins in them, and what what you do, you know, normally is you uh blet, you know, like uh a persimmon, you let it really, really ripen.
+
+[33:24] The ones that have a lot of tannins, you let them ripen for a long time. The uh pectin starts to the cells start to break down, the pectin and the tannins, which are separated normally, get together, they complex. Once the tannin gets hooked up to the pectin, it no longer has a astringency, and bang, stuff's not astringent anymore. You take apples that are very highly tannic, which are known as spitters because you can't eat them, uh, but they're used in in making cider and whatnot. If you dry them out, when they're drying, the tissue starts to break down, tannins complex with the uh with other parts of the apple, precipitate uh into something that doesn't cause uh astringency, and boom.
+
+[33:57] So you are in a weird situation where you took two things that weren't very astringent on their own, and somehow the tannins uh in them have a higher now affinity to the uh proteins in your mouth than they did before. And I don't know what would what would cause that, whether, you know, it's uh I d I don't know. It's very interesting. It's another thing that uh you know I should uh bring up with uh McGee. Too bad this didn't come in last week.
+
+[34:20] I could have asked him when I spoke to him. Uh and by the way, I don't know if we mentioned it. I did ask Harold McGee about a separate question we had last week on garlic and whether there's any units of garlicness that uh and he said no, but we also have some inform uh interesting information, I'm not gonna have time to get to it today, from our good friend at UC Davis, Ariel Johnson, who's gonna who sent us a paper to read on that, and also has some very interesting stuff to report on limes. It's a good reason to tune in next week because there's going to be a lot of interesting uh lime work coming out. Um anyway, so I don't know exactly what's going on, but uh somehow the two things mixed together um have you know synergistically uh increased the ability of those tannins to bind with the with uh your uh the proteins in your saliva.
+
+[35:01] Interesting. I just said saliva, which is a word Nastasha hates. Anyway, uh hello, Nastashian Dave. I was listening to your podcast last week, and now I remember that there was a question about uh the white powder on combu. I did a research project last summer in Denmark uh with uh South Denmark University and Lars Williams, who's at NOMA, to see whether we could quantify a mommy in the lab.
+
+[35:14] We worked a bit on Scandinavian seaweeds. And I recall the white powder on Kanbu is Manitol. I might have read it in a book. I don't remember a search online where where there's confirmation. Um Manitol, uh look, I I I that's I kind of remembered that too, but I still couldn't find quickly the information on that.
+
+[35:35] Manitol, interesting, is a sugar, uh, a sugar that is uh discovered uh in manna. Yeah, you know, manna, manitol from manna. So interesting what goes around comes around. Anyway, uh uh and uh Manitol from Kambu. Uh but it's a sugar alcohol.
+
+[35:52] Uh anyway, but manitive combo is pretty harmless, and some websites say there's a sweetness to the combu, and therefore it shouldn't be wiped off. Okay, aside from that, aside from the combu, I have a question about French fries. This is from Larissa, by the way. Uh I am now working on a research project to develop an optimal recipe for French fries at Fundacio Alicia in Spain, which is you know like a school that teams up with Harvard to do the cooking uh to cooking thing. Uh long story short, I was an undergrad teaching assistant for Harvard Science Cooking course in 2010, which is how I learned about Alicia.
+
+[36:18] So after graduating with a physics degree, I came to Alicia for six-month internship. Okay, so for the project, I've been consulting a lot of specific papers and your another blog post on what's going on. We make french fries. Most of my findings have been similar to yours, uh, plus some interesting things. For example, when we freeze raw potatoes before frying, the fries are extremely hard and get harder with time.
+
+[36:34] We had some fries that got really hard with time, they were kind of gross. Anyway, um uh tests ongoing. Anyway, I was wondering whether you have any new findings since the last fries uh post in 2010, especially on using different potato varieties. Here in Spain, the two common types we get are Kennebex, which are white, and agrias, which are yellow. Agri's yellow color being more pleasing to the majority of people, and the Kennebecs come out of the uh uh fryer extremely blonde uh and don't turn yellow.
+
+[36:56] Okay, Kennebex, Nastasha and I were hanging out with a potato lunatic at a show once, and I was just you weren't there for that one? Anyway, so I talked to the potato lunatic, someone's literally staring in at the radio station going, What is these people? What are they doing? You see that? Anyway, and she she didn't like what she she uh she saw.
+
+[37:14] She made the vegan face and walked away. Uh so the um uh Kennebex uh are good, very good potato, but apparently they don't do well on storage, and so for storage they're not gonna necessarily work very very well. I haven't done the research on uh varieties the way I want. I mean, typically, look for a French fry, you're looking for high solids, low moisture, uh, you know, starchy uh potato. And you know, the good old-fashioned uh russet burbank uh that we use is pretty good for that, or any kind of similar kind of high starch, high solid, low moisture potato.
+
+[37:47] Uh the interesting thing about uh potatoes is that also the optimum potato isn't just a variety, it is a variety and how it was stored because potato goes through uh potato goes through a lot of changes during storage. In fact, older potatoes that have been stored properly, not ones that are all shriveled and nasty, but an older potato that has been stored properly is actually a uh better uh frying potatoes. So there are people who don't like the new crop potatoes when they come out and will continue to use the ones that have been stored for a whole year uh under cold storage because or not cold storage, but under optimum storage because that that those are the ones that they like that they fry up nice. So, anyway, also on my fry, my fries, I'm gonna re I'm gonna not repost it, but like uh, you know, we're we're opening up a bar concept here soon, and there's gonna be french fries on the menu. I'm just letting you know there's gonna be french fries on the menu.
+
+[38:37] And it's not gonna be the exact recipe that we have on the blog because that recipe was written for three eighths inch French fries. I now favor a half inch French fry. And uh the trick to a French fry is always about getting the moisture level exactly right on the inside of the French fry. Uh if you go if you dehydrate them too much, you get hollow fry. Uh, and if you don't do it enough, you get a soggy fry.
+
+[38:58] And at the same time, I uh you know I don't want the outside to be hard and leathery. I want it to be crisp, but I want it to bite nicely and not be like a I don't want it to be like a rock. If I want to eat a rock, you uh just serve you a rock. You know what I mean? Anyway, so uh, and so basically in my post, I didn't recommend if you're gonna use uh pectin X SPL, which is the enzyme that we use to uh break down the the uh pectin on the hemicellulose on the surface of the French uh fries so that you get uh very good crust formation.
+
+[39:26] Mirvold uh et al. Maxime and and Chris recommend uh using ultrasonic bath for similar purpose. Uh when you do that, I recommend not uh not drying after you do your initial uh blanch step. I recommend not doing too much air drying uh because that leads us to a phenomenon known as hollow fry, where you've gotten rid of so much moisture that the potato on the inside just it doesn't have any structure anymore and it goes hollow. Uh when you switch to a half inch fry, you do need to bring some of that drying back just to get to moisture level right.
+
+[39:58] So, like with anything else, it's just a matter of paying attention to your ingredients and figuring out what's going on. Anyway, I hope that's helpful. Uh Matthew writes in uh I've heard Dave say a couple of times not to salt things too far ahead of time or before a cooking uh long low cooking process. This will eliminate some juiciness. In my head, I remember reading something from McGee to the contrary that the general wisdom of not wanting to salt meat too far ahead as it would cause it to leak juice is actually bunk.
+
+[40:23] What's the deal? I like the word uh bunk. Oh uh he also follows up and uh says, How do you feel about salting meat that will be braced for a long time? For example, salting or brining some beef overnight before braising, so uh so the salt penetrates all the way through the meat. I guess this uh also applies to salty marinades.
+
+[40:38] Is the issue at hand that the salt will turn the texture of the meat mushy, or that you believe it will rob it of its juices, which I thought McGee uh debunked. Well, McGee's favorite McGee's like famous debunk is on searing, sealing in the juices, right? That's his super famous debunk, right? Um, but it's not that ju it's not juiciness. In fact, when you salt meat, the literal amount of water in it is uh gonna be higher because the the after cooking, because the proteins, even though you actually some moisture will come out, the meat uh itself will uh bind water uh better, which is what brining does, which is why when you brine chicken, it you know it you can overcook it a little bit and it still stays juicy.
+
+[41:19] Okay, so um salting can help juiciness that way, and it's not that it makes uh texture mushy, it just makes it firmer, more like a cured uh texture. And so when you're eating something like a steak, you don't want that firmness that you get from uh kind of curing with salt, and so you want to stay away from it. In braises, especially a traditional braise, where you're gonna cook the thing to death and you're using the gelatin, uh, the collagen breakdown of the gelatin to moisturize it. I don't think it's going to be an issue, and there you want the salt in there for flavor, so I think it's okay. It's when you're gonna serve something like a steak and you want to have the texture of a like a uh you know, a regular juicy steak and not have it be firm.
+
+[41:59] It's not that it's actually less juicy, it's just firmer. Does that make sense? Anyway, so uh I'm I am I am not in uh I'm in no way contradicting McGee. We are we are in agreement. Okay, so um all right, so there's a question coming in.
+
+[42:15] I gotta answer it because it's coming up on on Thanksgiving. We mentioned uh this is from uh Joe from Chicago. Uh I shudder to think of a day when you no longer release your weekly podcast. I'm constantly learning inspired. Thank you.
+
+[42:25] Thank you. Uh speaking of inspiration, I came away from last week's uh episode feeling compelled to make a modernist version of Turducken, uh, which is where you know you wrap the turkey and the duck and the chicken, and yeah, you go back and listen to last week if you want to know the specifics. Anyway, but have the following questions before I ruin a perfectly good turkey. What specific kind of meat glue would you recommend for this application? Uh you're gonna want to, Joe, you're gonna want to get uh transglutaminase at which is Activa RM.
+
+[42:49] RM is the one you sprinkle. If you want, you can get G S. G S is the one that you paint on in a paste. I'm uh kind of an RM junkie, but you know, GS will work fine. Don't get any other variety for this because you know you might run into problems.
+
+[43:01] So RM or GS. And you could probably get them from modernistpantry.com too. You mentioned gluing the turkey skin to the flattened turkey breasts. Would you recommend gluing any of the other layers together? Uh Joe, I glue all the layers together.
+
+[43:12] So what you're gonna do is you're gonna you're gonna put a sprinkling of glue. Every every time you uh put a layer of meat down, you're gonna sprinkle a little glue to get good adhesion um all the way through. Um and then what about stuffing as a layer or perhaps the core? I do use a sausage layer in the middle of the uh turduccin between the chicken and the duck. Um, and I do it, put it there because that's where uh you want like a thermal barrier.
+
+[43:36] So the duck doesn't want to be at 63, duck wants to be at uh like you know, 57, 58, you know, maxly 59, and then the turkey the chicken doesn't want to be anything below 63, so the sausage layer goes there because it can kind of take up that thermal difference. It'll be good in that whole range, and so that's why we put the stuffing there. You could also put it in the core, but the problem is it won't get cooked at that temperature. So you either have to pre-cook this the core then or you know, do something else. So I wouldn't put the stuffing at the core because the core is where the least cooked stuff is going to be.
+
+[44:07] Uh four, to retain the tube shape that is achieved primarily through meat glue and plastic the meat glue and plastic wrap, or would you recommend butcher's twine plastic wrap? Don't go with butcher's twine. If you've ever tried to meet glue stuff with Butcher's Twine, it's a bloody freaking mess. Don't do it. It's gonna everything, it's like just use the plastic wrap and roll it.
+
+[44:23] If you are against cooking in plastic wrap, then take the plastic wrap uh off before you cook it. By the way, Wiley was doing some plastic wrap in tubes at the uh at the Harvard, and he got heckled by a couple of students who was like, You're using plastic, you're killing the earth. Remember? Anyway. Uh and he was like, What?
+
+[44:38] I think you just ignored them. Uh five. You mentioned using a thermometer. Do you have any tips for using a probe thermometer with a ziploc without compromising the integrity of the bag? Is there an easy way to do it without pulling the bags out of the bath?
+
+[44:49] No. Uh I wouldn't put a ziploc through uh I mean, I wouldn't put a thermometer through a ziploc bag. They make semi-waterproof uh and heat-proof thermometers, Cooper Atkins does that. You can theoretically dishwash, you can stick them in the Ziploc bag. Um, but I've had bad luck.
+
+[45:04] I've had them always leak. So I wouldn't um I wouldn't recommend doing that. You look in a plastic wrap situation with a large thing like a Turduckin, I just shove the shove it probe through the through the plastic wrap, and you're gonna get a little bit of water leakage in, but over the size of like a whole kind of Turduccan thing, it's not gonna be uh it's not gonna be a big problem. Um okay. So uh those are my recommendations on that.
+
+[45:26] And to uh round it out, uh we have a call, I don't even know who this is from, actually, but someone sent us in. Steve. Oh, Steve. Hey, Steve. So Steve says uh the at water system's failure to address actual energy availability is well known, but people seem to assume it just scales uniformly, and that strikes me as a very flawed assumption, and sends us a link to an interesting paper uh which I can't actually get to, and the paper is known as uh processing food extensively by thermal and non thermal techniques.
+
+[45:53] Hmm. Uh anyway, so the Atwater system, for those of you that don't know, right? Atwater was the guy who uh his name was Wilbur Olin At uh Atwater, and he was uh alive, you know, in the in the you know he he was working roughly from after the Civil War up to the early part of the 1900s. And um he was the one that kind of figured out uh food energy and calories, right? So what he would do is he would uh eat a bunch of stuff and then uh kind of measure kind of uh what you know what he was that he that he ate.
+
+[46:25] He would burn it to kind of figure out how much energy it had, and then he would measure the like his poop and he would burn his poop and figure out how much stuff was left in his poop. He would try to figure out how much stuff he was peeing out, he tried to figure out how much he was breathing out in terms of figuring out like what like how you're actually utilizing the energy that's in food. And so the concept of the calorie as being a re like a reasonable thing was basically from you know stemming from his research and going on. And uh the the point is is in fact is that it's it uh kind of bunk, right? And so now we all have these calorie uh things uh that we see, and they try to they basically just take individual units, like protein has this much calories, fat has this many calories, carbohydrates have this many calories, and they lump them and then scale them.
+
+[47:07] And Steve, you're exactly right. Uh this it's completely incorrect. It's based on a whole bunch of like super incorrect uh assumptions. Um, you know, the people who are and the problem with it is is you know, as you say, that there no one has really given an alternative to try and figure out how it works. But my favorite is this.
+
+[47:28] Look, if you're eating a raw vegan diet, everybody knows that if you take a look at what's let what's excreted from your body that you don't digest it effectively, right? Uh and everybody knows that if you drink a gallon of corn oil, you're not gonna absorb that thing, you're gonna be spraying some corn oil out the other side, right? So uh clearly the combinations you eat, how you eat, and the quantities you eat and what you're eating is gonna make a huge difference. But the paper that he uh that he uh you know sent to us is very interesting because they did a bunch of testing on availability of uh energy from food cooking versus not cooking, and this is to go back to the raw vegan uh section we had before, and a lot more typically with meats, uh not just with starches, which is obvious, but with meats, uh cooking it makes a lot more of the energy apparently uh available, a lot more than just beating the hell out of it or blending it or anything like that. So, another argument for cooking your meat, cooking issues fishes got me on this corner and I don't know where I'm at.
+
+[48:53] Supposed to meet my baby between the minutes late. You got my head all twisted, and I guess can't get it straight.
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+[0:53] Go to Rackiton.com or get the app. That's R-A-K-U-T-E-N. Broadcasting live from Roberta's in Bushwick, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[1:23] This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live every Tuesday from the Heritage Radio Network at Roberta's Pizzeria in the back in the little container they have cut here for our radio station in the Bushwick. Joined as usual with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, although a sick Nastasha. Yes, right? Yes. Listen, while I while I talk about Nastasha, I'm gonna I'm gonna tell you to call all of your questions to 718497-2128.
+
+[1:47] That's 718497-2128. You gotta hurry, because we're only here to answer your Thanksgiving related cooking questions or otherwise for the next 45 minutes or say. So uh Nastash you're not feeling well, huh? No. You know it was even more depressing.
+
+[2:01] What? Getting on the subway and seeing everyone with their suitcases at Port Authority going home. Well, well, they were at Port Authority, so you can laugh at them for that reason. Port Authority is for those of you that haven't uh visited our fine city, Port Authority's a hellhole. I mean uh 100% unmitigated hunk of crap.
+
+[2:19] One job. One job. One job. Get people into the city and out of the city in an effective manner. So what what are some things you need?
+
+[2:27] Good transport back and forth, right? Good signage? Mm-hmm. Friendly staff. Yeah.
+
+[2:32] Any of those? No. No. Worse staff. Worse, unless you work there, in which case I love you.
+
+[2:38] Worse signage. Uh hard, you know, the building itself is split into two sections with a road running through it. So you're like, where's my bus? Oh, it's in the other building. How come there's no sign saying it's in the other freaking building?
+
+[2:50] Because this is Port Authority. What do you want? An easy way to get in and out of the city? What the hell's wrong with you? Anyway, Port Authority sucks.
+
+[2:57] The only thing that uh kind of rivals Port Authority for sucking has got to be Penn Station. Yeah. The other biggest hunk of crap in the entire city. And also the other place that's supposed to get people in and out of the city relatively easy. Again, for those of you that don't take trains in out of the city, either because you're rich enough to always have a car or whatever, I don't know why.
+
+[3:14] But uh for some reason, even at Grand Central, at Grand Central, I can tell you right now on a program exactly what track your train will be on in a month and a half. Okay. Uh at Penn Station, they like to wait until five minutes before the train's gonna leave. So that everyone with their luggage is smashing into each other down a tiny corridor to rush and beat each other up and like knock each other into the tracks to get to the train. Does this make any freaking sense?
+
+[3:42] Come on, people. Anyway, all right, enough of that. Okay. Uh did I already tell them to call in their questions? Yeah.
+
+[3:48] Anyway, so I think the reason Nastasha is sick is because Nastasha was in part, aside from all the other cooking issues and you know, new company related work that we're doing, she ran the uh wedding celebration for our good buddy Nils Norn and and Vicky. Uh, you know, chef Nils Norn, our buddy, had his uh wedding. Never thought he he never thought he would get married until he found Vicky, the right woman. And Nastasha forgets to tell me, it's a true story. Forgets to tell me, hey, Nils requested that you make some cocktails for the wedding, which I would gladly do.
+
+[4:18] I'll do anything for Nils. Uh doesn't tell me, makes them and was like, they've made them. Like the hell I made them. They were good. They were delicious, right?
+
+[4:29] But like I'm not gonna take the recipe. So's my recipe. If I make if I make Bobby Flay's recipe, I was like, hey, Bobby Flay made your chicken. Anyway, they were good. So, you know, to you goes the credit.
+
+[4:42] But had they sucked, to you would have gone the blame as well. Because that's the way she goes. All right. Matthew writes in, hi Dave and Nastasha. I'm looking forward to today's show.
+
+[4:51] Uh this Friday I'm catering a party, and the host has requested uh me to prepare a fillet of beef that's tenderloins for all the uh all you other people out there. I don't have access to a circulator, although there's a slight chance I could borrow one from some friends, and we'll have to cook the tenderloins from raw at the apartment where the party is. I'll probably cook one uh from medium rare to medium, which is already too high for my taste, by the way, uh, Matthew. Uh and another medium to well done and in parenthy writes, not my choice, obviously. Not anyone's choice.
+
+[5:19] What the hell? Just put a blindfold on the customer so they don't know how overcooked it is, and they'll enjoy it when it's cooked less. Anyway, i if you don't have the opportunity to poke their eyes out so they can't look at the color. I mean, uh, it's what you know, you're gonna have to so obviously if you do tenderloin well done, you're gonna have to sauce the sauce the bee Jesus out of it in order to have it be like even moderately edible, right or wrong. Right.
+
+[5:39] Anyway, uh, do you have any do you have any suggestions, guidelines, temperatures, or general advice for preparing preparing a beef filet with standard issue home kitchen equipment. I have about a three-hour window from when I arrive at the house until the meat will be served. Okay, look it. Uh if you really do have to cook one of these suckers until it's uh gray and unappetizing, you're gonna have to make a uh delicious sauce to go with it. Uh I suggest something a sauce with a lot of fat in it that's bound that's not gonna have the fat pull out, a cream-based sauce, perhaps, perhaps onions, cassis, and cream, some mixture thereof might be good with some reduced beef stock, right?
+
+[6:17] Sas, that sounds good, right? Anywho, uh so that's one thing. Another thing, if you if if you're gonna look if you're supposed to overcook it because your customers want it overcooked, you might as well go ballsy and do a beef wellington, because that's kind of ballsy, right? Where you take, you're gonna sear off the meat, then you're gonna uh take a mixture of pate and uh sauteed mushrooms and shallots and put it over the top of the tenderloin, wrap the sucker in puff pastry, and then cook it in a high oven. Guaranteed to overcook the tenderloin, but if they want it overcooked anyway, uh that's what I would recommend.
+
+[6:45] Now, tenderloin uh is interesting. It's a you know, it's a cut that a lot of chefs don't give um a lot of merit to because uh it doesn't have a lot of connective tissue, and people think of it as a fairly as far as beef goes, not having a lot of beef flavor. So chefs tend to make fun of the cut. Now, it can be delicious as a textural thing, and it does, I mean, come on, it does have some beef flavor, right? Yeah.
+
+[7:07] So uh and and sexist, it's usually it's like a lot of it, basically, there's a lot of sexism among news flash, a lot of sexism in this business. And uh, you know, it's seen as kind of a lady's cut, is kind of like it's the cosmo of steaks, basically. Uh so uh, but the trick to cooking one is one, not overcooking it. It because there's no connective tissue, it wants to cook at a very, very low temperature. So when I am using a circulator, I only cook it up to like 54.4 Celsius, which is very low, rare, uh, because it doesn't have any sort of fat really or connective tissue to protect it from overcooking.
+
+[7:41] Two, you don't want to cook it that long because you know even with a low temperature, even if you had a circulator, um, the meat would get um uh kind of mushy if you cooked it for uh a long time. So if you and I'm presuming, by the way, you are writing the the question that you want to keep it whole as a whole fillet and then cut serving. Otherwise, I would just cut it into steaks and cook the steaks, which is a lot easier to do uh well using home equipment. Now, I'm gonna go radical on you. First of all, if you have to do it at home equipment, I would put uh a crust on it, and then I would put it in the oven, in and out, in and out, in and out, in and out, in and out of the oven to try and uh get a more moderate heat on it so it doesn't uh overcook.
+
+[8:20] Uh, but that's a pain in the butt. And if you don't do it all the time, that's how David Kinch like now replicates because he does David Kinch from Manresa, amazing chef, uh he uh moved away from using circulators and instead mimics uh the effect of a circulator, which is a low average heat input, by moving the meat in and out, in and out, in and out uh of an oven, which at the same time has the high heat of the oven, which crisps crisps and browns the outside while he's getting the low have it average heat input. So he's doing it that way. You can do it that way. Here's something I suggest: go to the apartment.
+
+[8:51] Most people's hot water taps at an apartment are fairly hot. Measure the temperature of the hot water using uh an instant read thermodynamic. If the water is within a couple of degrees of 54, like if it's 53, all the way up to like 55, 56, then I would put the tenderloin in a Ziploc bag with a little bit of oil and turn the running water on. If the water's too hot, add a tiny bit of cold water and it'll stabilize. Get a steady but not severe stream of uh hot water.
+
+[9:23] This won't work in an apartment, by the way, uh in a house because you'll typically run out of hot water, but in an apartment, usually you won't. So you can run a steady stream of hot water over a Ziploc bag. And I've actually cooked food this way in a pinch. It's completely eco unfriendly, uh, but uh it will work. Bring it, you want to make sure that the thing cooks through in under you want to cook it in about 45 to 50 minutes, and a tenderloin will cook through.
+
+[9:47] Uh, it depends on how thick it is. It might take an hour and a half if it's really thick, uh, and then pull it out, cool it down a little bit and sear the outside of it. Is that helpful? Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[9:56] Anyway. So about 54 is where I shoot for for rare. I do not go above 56. Tenderloin has a very, very short window of uh yumminess. Okay.
+
+[10:05] Uh now, uh, our good friend uh Arielle from UC Davis. Is she a postdoc now at UC Davis? Or is she still a grad student? What is she? Is she postdoc?
+
+[10:13] I don't know. Anyway, our good buddy who used to be at NYU is friends with uh Kent Kirstenbaum, and um she gave us some very interesting information. She's uh running some tests on lime juice for us uh for herself, really, but you know, it also helps us because uh you know people who've heard me yap about lime juice a lot know that uh a lot of people prefer lime juice that's three or four hours old as opposed to very fresh lime juice in a cocktail. And so she's doing the preliminary studies on what's actually going on in the lime juice, and apparently the volatile, the level of volatiles decreases rapidly over that first three to four hour chunk, and other flavors are starting to come in. So that's it looks like there might be an actual sweet spot in the lime juice if you like a specific profile.
+
+[10:56] More to come. She's gonna work on it more in the new year, but that's pretty interesting, huh? Mm-hmm. Yeah. And uh the other thing is that she wrote in about uh pungency and garlic, which is something that I, you know, I apparently now got wrong, and apparently McGee also we both got it wrong.
+
+[11:12] There is a pungency scale for alliums, onions in in particular, but I'm sure it would also work with garlic, and it's called the pyruvate scale. So what happens is is when it when you convert uh alian or whatever it is to allicin, whichever way it goes, from the non-pungent to the pungent using the enzymes when you cut or crush garlic or onion, uh, that pungency that's created also creates uh a mod a molecule of pyruvate, which is easily measurable and doesn't degrade. So what happens is they uh as fast. So they make the uh they crush up onions and they use a relatively inexpensive piece of equipment, a uh spectrophotometer, as opposed to like doing uh um uh you know uh chromatography, a more expensive process. And they can measure directly the level of uh pyruvate that's there, and therefore uh have a measure of how pungent the uh product is.
+
+[12:01] So there is a measure of pungency. Uh that in from Ariel, and you can look it up. You it was even on Wikipedia, I should have looked at it. It's called pyruvate scale. Dumb.
+
+[12:10] I'm dumb. Uh anyway, she sent us a paper. Um, and you can you can just go look it up for those of you that have that sort of uh that sort of a capability to look up papers, pyruvate scale. Anyway, interesting, yeah? Mm-hmm.
+
+[12:22] Yeah. Um, all right. Now, Jason from the southwest of England writes in and says, I'm a dedicated podcast listener, but usually cannot listen live and call in because I am in England, although I'm a native New Yorker. So hopefully I can ask Dave a question via email. Well, here you are doing it.
+
+[12:38] Here it is happening. Okay. Uh I had an argument recently with some people, most notably my wife, about storing coffee. She told me it should not be stored cold. I keep my current bag of coffee in the fridge and any supplies in the freezer.
+
+[12:50] No one could explain to me why this was bad. And I assume that reducing the rate of oxidation in general spoilers by keeping the coffee cold has to be a major benefit given how fast uh coffee gets old and stale. My rationale also include the fact that the ground uh coffee is going to come up to temperature super fast given its low moisture content, high surface area, and the fact that it's being immersed in hundred degree water. What do you think? The science uh the science uh says store it cold, but people seem to be arguing against us for some reason.
+
+[13:18] Thanks. Jason, who adds uh in parents, stuck in Southwest England. Well, listen. Hey, if you're gonna be in Southwest England, Jason, now's the time. Shout out to Somerset and the cider folks over there.
+
+[13:30] You guys gotta be rolling an apple cider at this point. I mean, maybe it's not done yet, but that's one of the apple cider producing kingdoms, like centers of the universe right there. I mean, if I like like in fact, if I had the time, if I wasn't working on so much stuff, and if it wasn't Thanksgiving, I'd be getting on a plane right now and flying to the uh other side, and you know, sorry, Somerset, I'd be going to Kent to go to the uh the Brogdale collection and chewing down on some apples and having some delicious cider over there. So good time to be from the South, uh, I mean, good time of year, to be uh from the south of England. Remember?
+
+[14:02] Yeah. Yeah, it was a fun time. Good time. Yeah, fun time, fun time I have my own. Yeah.
+
+[14:06] I'm sick. Anyway, uh, that's my nostalgia invitation, by the way. Okay, so back to the question on coffee. Now, listen. I was not able, listen, I was not able to find any actual uh scholarly research on this.
+
+[14:20] But I will tell you uh the reasoning uh that I have heard over the years and uh it's also and you know not to choose sides with your wife but that you shouldn't store the coffee in the fridge and here's why uh it's not the cold uh it's not the co it's not the cold that's hurting it it's the fact that uh you get a lot of condensation as the temperature changes up and down up and down up and down so if you had uh if if you had coffee in a hermetically sealed bag that had no moisture or you know the same amount of moisture that the coffee had in it controlled atmosphere let's say CO2 purge nitrogen purge vacuum right uh and you pulled it uh in and out of the fridge there might actually be some damage from temperature cycling but the damage wouldn't be that great because you wouldn't be getting any condensation from the outside from moisture coming into the outside uh in a normal situation there's moisture and the condensation of that moisture on the surface of the beans as the temperature changes is what's causing the problem and that's especially going to happen if you're in and out in and out in and out if you are going to freeze uh the coffee freezing is viable but you have to make sure that there's no moisture in the package at all. So you want to get all the air out of the package if you have the ability to flush uh with some sort of gas like CO2 or whatnot if it's not fresh. Very fresh beans by the way when you roast a fresh bean if you were to you by the way, you should just roast you should roast your own beans, which is a load of fun. Just get some green beans, roast them. It's a lot of fun.
+
+[15:51] Uh uh I mean it's really it really is. And you can you don't have to get really some fancy equipment. You can start just with a pan and and and you know, spoon, you know, shake it around. Uh if you just invest, I think like twenty bucks in a whirly pop popcorn maker, they make great you can roast coffee very well in that. I know I'm gonna get some calls saying that I'm a jerk, but you don't even need a thermometer.
+
+[16:11] Uh you can do it based on sound and smell. Don't say don't tell anyone I said that, but you can do good coffee roasting just uh based on that, or you can move to an air popcorn popper, a number of ways to do roast coffee. But then you can do it. But if you roast your own coffee, you'll notice that um they gas a lot. If you were to take freshly roasted coffee that you just roasted and sealed it in a jar, uh w i i assuming the jar didn't blow up, I don't think it would make enough pressure to blow up the jar.
+
+[16:38] But when you open it, it will you get a blast of CO2 out because the CO2 is being evolved out of the beans as they age. Uh and so that's why they actually have one-way valves in these bags to stop the bags from puffing up so that the CO2 can get out. Umce the beans uh have gotten rid of all of their CO2 beans. Once the beans have gotten rid of the CO2, uh, then they start to oxidize much more rapidly and they and they stale. Um I don't know what I what got me in.
+
+[17:06] I don't know what I got into that. But my point is is that uh they want to be protected from oxygen. Oxygen is gonna be their enemy, moisture is gonna be their enemy. Um so I think that the also your fridge has lots of uh I mean, I don't know about your fridge. You might have the cleanest fridge in the world, but fridges tend to have a lot of um stink in them.
+
+[17:23] They have a little stank. Uh which is why like when a fridge, when the power goes out, you realize how stinky your fridge is because it's not cold anymore, which does you know it doesn't dampen down the volatiles and you can really smell it. So coffee, which is very porous, tends to pick up bad aromas. It tends to pick up moisture, which condenses on it as it goes in and out of the fridge, and so the consensus is don't do it. Yeah?
+
+[17:41] Good job. Yeah. Alright, Nastash is happy with my answer. I hope, Jason, that you are happy with my answer. What?
+
+[17:44] Nastasha thinks we should go to our first commercial break, so we'll do that. Calling all your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues. I've been drawn into your magnets all strap. Welcome back to Cooking Issues.
+
+[19:57] Call your questions to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. So the Nirvana folks, the I like the Nirvana, that was what I grew up with. So I'm at this wedding that Nastasha is running, right? This was not my fault.
+
+[20:10] Hey, look. So the DJ's playing all kind of easy, you know, not easy, but you know, like, you know, brick house. Like wedding kind of stuff, you know. Mighty my te. Anyway, and so like, you know, I'm dancing.
+
+[20:20] By well, by the way, I'm a kind of a lunatic dancer, and I was with Vicky, our former intern, who's all like an awesome Staten Island lunatic dancer. Awesome, amazing. And my wife, we're dancing, and they throw on uh, you know, they throw on um uh smells like Teen Spirit from Nirvana. And I'm like, wait, what, what? What?
+
+[20:39] At a wedding? I was like, look, if you're gonna do that, the only appropriate way to do that is to go complete mosh out headbang slam. So I'm like, alright. You asked for it. You played it.
+
+[20:50] And so I started doing the the headbang. Now it's not the same as when I had long hair back in 19 uh, you know, 90, 91. But uh you clear the dance floor. Uh clear the dance floor. I mean, everyone's like trying to do the little shoulder shake.
+
+[21:02] It's freaking nirvana. Anyways, uh, you know, thank god it wasn't 1991, or like some giant football jock would have started doing it and smashed into me and knocked me halfway across the this is my memory, by the way. Now this is what my life used to be like. Anywho, uh my neck is still sore. So it turns out that when you're 40 going on 41, if you haven't done the headbang in a while, you might want to stay away.
+
+[21:27] Today's show is sponsored by Modernist Pantry, supplying innovative ingredients for the modern cook. Do you love to experiment with new cooking techniques and ingredients, but hate to overspend for pounds of supplies, and only a few grams are needed per application? Modernist Pantry has a solution. They offer a wide range of modern ingredients and packages that make sense for the home cook or enthusiast, and most cost only around five bucks, saving you time, money, and storage space. Whether you're looking for hydrocolloids, pH buffers, or even meat glue, you'll find it at Modernist Pantry.
+
+[21:55] And if you need something that they don't carry, just ask. Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you. With inexpensive shipping to any country in the world, Modernist Pantry is your one-stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients. Fans of cooking issues that place an order of $25 or more before next week's show. We'll get a free sample of transglutaminase aka meat glue to experiment with over the holidays.
+
+[22:14] Simply use the promo code CI63. Placing your order online at modernistpantry.com. Visit modernistpantry.com today for all of your modernist cooking needs. Meat glue. We've talked about it.
+
+[22:27] I like it though. It's good stuff. It is good for the holiday season, the little meat glue. Um, those guys, they like us, those modernist pantry guys, huh? It's good.
+
+[22:35] We met them? No. Never met them in person, huh? Anyway. Uh, so what are you doing for the Thanksgiving?
+
+[22:41] I don't know yet. You don't know? Are you I I've I put my order in for the uh turkey. You put your orders in there. No, I didn't.
+
+[22:46] I do the Turkey Farmer. Do you guys remember his name, the turkey farmer? Larry Sorell. Larry Sorrell, the Heritage Meat Turkey Farmer, right? I guess like it's done done.
+
+[22:56] The turkeys are slaughtered. They're dead. So you can come in from where does he live? He lives in Pennsylvania. Where is he?
+
+[23:01] Uh Kansas. Kansas. Same thing. Kansas, Pennsylvania. Same thing.
+
+[22:59] Same thing. Anyway, so he's uh he's here at Roberta's eating, which is awesome because I'm about to go uh to the Heritage Meat Stand at Essex Street Market. By the way, you can now just any any Jocomo who happens to show up in the Lower East Side of New York can go purchase Heritage Meads at the Essex Street Market. Little known fact by people who didn't already know it. And uh uh and I'm gonna go pick up my turkey today and next week I'll report back of how delicious.
+
+[23:29] What are you doing? I don't know. You know what? You know what I'm thinking? I'm thinking I might look I I've become lazy in my old age.
+
+[23:35] As soon as you hit 40, you instantly become lazy. Sorry, all you 45 year olds, your lazy sons of guns. Anyway, uh I'm I think I'm just gonna bone the sucker out, roll it in. What are you doing for Thanksgiving? I meant that's what I'm telling you about the turkey cook.
+
+[23:45] I'm gonna bone it out. What else is there to do? Be thankful for my family? I'm kidding. Uh so I'm going to Mystic, which is where my uh in-laws live.
+
+[23:52] But uh, I'm gonna bone out the turkey uh and probably roll it and then uh and then cook it that way. I think that's the easiest way. I you know, I just don't have the time this year to do the uh, you know, the the aluminum skeleton and pumping the oil, although it is the best damn turkey I've ever made. Anyway, on to questions. Uh Matthew writes in uh about braise colors.
+
+[24:11] Thanks a lot for answering my questions last week. This week I'm working on a sandwich for my business based around red wine braised beef. I am braising Chuck on the stovetop in red wine and beef broth. After slowly simmering for a few hours, I pull the beef apart and reduce the brace to a glaze. Everything comes out pretty well except for the color ends up being grayish.
+
+[24:28] Ideally, I want to end up with something the color of red wine or Concord grape juice. Mmm, Concord Grape. Delicious, Nustacha's favorite. Any ideas or suggestions would be a great help. Thanks, Matthew.
+
+[24:37] Okay, look. Here's the issue. Let's just let's knock right off the bat. You're not using an aluminum, I mean, not aluminum. You're not using a reactive pan that's going to cause a color problem, right?
+
+[24:44] So typically like aluminum or copper or anything like that. I'm assuming that you're working in stainless or some other form of something that's not going to cause any sort of off coloring based on the metal. Bang, done. Uh I think anytime you're doing a long cook and you're reducing and you have a lot of uh stuff like beef brothers or browns, the colors are never going to be as punchy as you want. Uh if you say gray, usually I'm used to going kind of a brownish color.
+
+[25:11] Uh, and then that brown can go somewhat grayish if there's fat that ends up getting emulsified into the braise. So I'd make sure you try and skim the fat after before you before you reduce it down to a glaze, get the fat off of it. Um also you might the flavor is going to be different. Like the real depth of flavor, you're gonna want that uh that you know browned, you know, meat stock, but you might move to like a white veal stock, which you can reduce a lot more without getting the huge color impact from all the brown bits. Uh, you know, if you don't brown the meat as much, but again, all that stuff's what makes it delicious.
+
+[25:41] So I think it's gonna be hard to kind of punch the color. Now you can cheat, but it it really ruin, you know, change not ruins, it's delicious, changes the flavor by doping up the color with things that have very high colorant values, like uh jelly, like Concord grape jelly, but that's gonna add Concord or tomato paste or something of that nature. It's gonna punch uh punch the red up. Um I'm interested in hearing anyone else whether they have any suggestions on this. Uh I mean, I like a braised kind of a sauce, but they always do look kind of gloopy unless you just create the sauce from scratch instead of having it be part of the braise.
+
+[26:15] You know, like have the braise be the braise, save that sauce, continue to brazen it, and then just make a specific sauce that has a specific color profile, a cassis or whatever, to go with it. What do you think, Steph? Sounds good. She's like, I don't care, I'm sick. She's like, I don't give a crap, I'm sick.
+
+[26:28] Happy Thanksgiving. Okay. Colin writes in. You mentioned uh on last week's show that tannins and pectins combine in persimmons as they ripen to make them less astringent. Can I add pectin to something tannic like black walnut booze, for instance, to reduce the astringency?
+
+[26:42] I tried an LN2, that's liquid nitrogen for all you folks out there, freeze last year to dehydrate the tannins at your suggestion, but that did not have a strong effect. Sorry. Uh I'll try pectin, but if you ever tried something similar, thanks, Colin. Okay, look it. Look it.
+
+[26:57] What happens is um tannin will complex with uh pectin in fruit, right, in a bleding situation. Uh bleding. That's look it up. Anyway, uh or listen to last week's show. Uh but the um uh most effective way to do it, tannins like to bind with proteins a lot.
+
+[27:14] So if you really want to bind the hell out of tannins, you're gonna want to treat it with a protein-based wine finding agent. So, what are your choices? Uh already in your fridge, most likely egg white. So uh mix um and you can look up the proportions uh in uh you know in a wine finding on the internet, but it's usually egg white and salt. Uh I forget why the salt's there.
+
+[27:35] I think to I don't know, make the proteins act better. I don't know why it's there, frankly. Uh and water to make it easy to mix in. You stir it into your liquid, um, and then over the course of set of like a week or two, the egg white proteins will combine with the tannins into larger, um into larger complexes, and when they do that, they'll slowly sink to the bottom, and then you can rack the stuff off the top. So that's classic way to do it.
+
+[27:59] Uh even more hardcore than uh egg in terms of its ability to remove tannins, because egg's gonna remove tannins, but not uh necessarily that much. Gelatin. If you uh if you uh dissolve gelatin, mix the gelatin in the gelatin will complex with the tannin, and then over time settle out into the bottom, and you can rack it off. If you have a center fuse, you can do it uh e even easier. So it's typically these also milk proteins can do it.
+
+[28:23] If you it uh if you combine uh milk proteins, but the problem with milk proteins is uh I think in order to get them to settle out properly, you might have to have a fairly low pH, which I think you won't have in your walnut liqueur. So it's you know it's it's a question. Uh I'm also I think the gelatin will work at basically any pH, but typically these things are done at wine pHs. But I would use this sort of uh this sort of a technique. Or move to something like kitasan, which you can get at a um you know what, stick with a protein.
+
+[28:49] Tell tell me how it works. So one of those things uh should work. Does that make sense? Mm-hmm. Anyway, whatever.
+
+[28:54] Whatever. Anyway. Okay. Aaron from the north of England. It's an English show today.
+
+[28:59] By the way, our good friend Tony Canularo is engaged from Dark 6ix9ine Cobrook Road, engaged to be married. Happened a long time ago, but I don't think we've mentioned it on the air. Yeah, amazing. Congratulations. Yeah.
+
+[29:09] Nice. Anyway, good people. Uh okay. Uh Aaron writes in uh hello, Nastasha and Dave. Um still loving the show.
+
+[29:16] Thanks very much, very inspiring. I like that he's like assuming that we're gonna turn to crap. He's like, I'm still loving it. I was expecting it would be crap by now, but I'm still loving it. I think it's a lot of people are responding to are you listening?
+
+[29:27] Oh, yeah, right. It's one of these. You there? You there? Anyway.
+
+[29:33] Uh I would really like to improve how I present my food. I'm not looking for super fine dining level of presentation, but I would like to incorporate as much as possible that quality into the food I serve people at home. Uh, I'm in the north of England and haven't found any appropriate courses anywhere near me so far. Can you recommend any resources online or in print to help me learn? Uh all the best.
+
+[29:52] Thanks very much, Aaron. It's an interesting question, actually. Um it's a very interesting question. Uh and it's one I was thinking about this morning, and I don't have a I don't have a good answer, so I'm just gonna talk about it. We used to teach a plating course at the French culinary, but I don't Nils taught it because Nils is kind of a monster plater.
+
+[30:10] Uh but they you know they they don't teach it anymore. Plating at home is always uh it's difficult because usually you're the only person doing the plating and you have to get all the components together and and serve it out, so it can be uh a little more difficult. But if what you're interested in is just I typically at home will serve uh family style, and then the question is just making the individual dishes look nice. So you have to look at it from a like a range of a range of of ideas. One, are you just talking about what the food looks like in general, or are we really talking about plating?
+
+[30:41] If you're just talking about what the food looks like in general, then as you're making choices, you make choices not only based on taste, but based on how how something's gonna look in the end, right? So you'll choose things. They obviously taste is the primary thing you're gonna choose, but you'll think, well, that color is gonna go really nice with that. And instinctively you start making choices about how things like that are gonna look. Being that, oh man, that color would look really nice.
+
+[31:05] You know, what flavor would go really nice that has that color, and you could bring like a pop, you know, like a like really something nice and poppy to it color-wise, right? Uh uh, or I'm gonna use a different kind of a cooking technique because I don't want it to look overreduced or brown or something like this, right? So that's the first step. The second step then is is actually once you get the the colors and the and the look of the food to be what you want. Now, how do you present it?
+
+[31:29] And the the best way to do that is to just read, not uh I don't have any good uh I've read some, I'm not gonna even recommend it, but the ones I've I'm sure there's great ones. So I'm not insulting if it happens to be someone here that's written one, please tell us which one it is, I'll take a look at it. But some of the old plating technique books that I've read, I don't really first of all, they tend to be dated by the time they come out, and you know, they're kind of they're kind of I don't know, just they've never really been inspired by them, you know. What I would do is just go look at a bunch of chef cookbooks that put out restaurant meals and you get an idea for what's possible with plating. So if you're looking to do food at a particular in a particular style, then find the cookbook of a chef who's respected who does that.
+
+[32:11] Like if you want like kind of, hey, I'm a I'm a badass big meat jockey, go get the uh Piet de Couchon book and like you know, he'll show you how to stick a knife through a sandwich or something like that. You know what I mean? Or if you want to do something kind of really like high-end plating and fresh and new, go look at like 11 Madison's all plated out, you know, the new cookbook. But I would look at at cookbooks. But I'm gonna think more about this, and hopefully people will write in and tell me things that they like so that next week I can mention them on the show.
+
+[32:37] Do you have anything? No, no, I think that's a good idea, though. Yeah, but I'm I'm I'm interested in hearing from uh, you know, this week you can prove you're listening by writing in with uh ideas for blading technique, uh, like resources, right? You live in the middle of nowhere, yeah. Yeah, I mean other things like you can practice, like there's certain plating techniques you can learn, like you can learn to canal something, right?
+
+[32:57] Uh and just look online for YouTube videos on how to canel. Or you can learn how to drop uh, you know, oil onto a soup with a with a squeeze bottle. I mean, if you want to do some fancy plating techniques, learn to do good work with a spoon, like the brush, the schmear, learn to learn to drop things out of squeeze bottles, but that's kind of old school. Anyway, uh look it up. Nastasha is is trying to punch me in the face, telling me we have to take our second commercial break.
+
+[33:19] So we'll come right back, call your questions to 718-497-2128. 718497-2128. A fly just attacked me. Welcome back to Cooking Issues. So Nastasha, you're gonna you're gonna, even though you're sick, are you gonna go to the Thanksgiving Day parade this year?
+
+[34:35] No, no. I'm gonna watch them blow up the balloons tomorrow. I like that. I wish they would explode the balloons. I hate parades.
+
+[34:42] The only thing I like what? Have your kids gone? No. Hell no. No.
+
+[34:47] No. First of all, my son Booker, can you imagine him in that crowd of people waiting for a balloon to pass? Blown up around natural history. That's cool. Yeah?
+
+[34:58] Mm-hmm. Yeah, whatever. I've seen it, I've seen every parade. I hate parades. Hey, listen.
+
+[35:02] You know what I like? Bagpipes. You don't like bagpipes now? No, I do. It's just you would, you know.
+
+[35:08] I mean I would. I don't know. Bagpipes are amazing. It's sad. What's sad?
+
+[35:12] Sound is sad. It's not sad. It's stirring. Okay. Look.
+
+[35:18] If you get married, bagpipe. Oh my God. Yes. No, it's not only for funerals. I want all of Scotland to punch Nastasha in the face the next time you see her.
+
+[35:30] I'm kidding, don't do that. Not advocating any violence. But I'm saying yes, funerals, because it's stirring. You're also supposed to play bagpipes when you march into battle. And you play the big weddings.
+
+[35:44] Bagpipes are always appropriate. Anytime music is appropriate, the Great Highland bagpipes is appropriate. Okay. It's an amazing instrument. Anyway, I enjoy bagpipes.
+
+[35:55] What do you think every parade is a funeral? Why do they have them at parades? I I guarantee they don't have them here. What? Well, I don't care.
+
+[36:04] I don't like the Thanksgiving Day parade. The heck. Just marching bands. Yeah, marching bands. Bagpipes.
+
+[36:11] Yeah. Funeral. Can we just do the rest of the show with bagpipes in the background? Yeah, definitely. Definitely.
+
+[36:20] We have to put in the greatest rock and roll bagpipe of all time. That's not really a great look. Which is long way to the top. If you want to rock and roll, it's the greatest use of bagpipes in rock and roll. Am I right?
+
+[36:31] Yeah. Yes! Okay. Back on back on task. Back on task.
+
+[36:37] Back on cooking issues task. Alright, sorry. Anyway, uh, on record, I do not enjoy a parade except for the bagpipes. Okay. Uh Steve Santana writes in.
+
+[36:48] I was wondering if Dave could go over a few sous vide questions relating to duck breasts. Should the skin be scored before bagging or just before searing? Should the breast be bagged with butter, or better yet, rendered duck fat if I can find some, or were the fat already under the skin be enough? With the same results from uh the last to salt or not to salt post, apply to duck breast too. And should the duck breast be chilled after cooking, uh, and he's asking 40 minutes to 64 Celsius as the time and temperature for cooking before searing.
+
+[37:15] Okay, I'm just gonna go over this. First of all, don't cook the duck breast that high. I would not go uh standard uh, you know, like Long Island Peckin style duck uh breasts 57 degrees Celsius for 45 minutes is sufficient. Uh I wouldn't go above that. If you have a uh a tougher duck breast, sometimes you can go to 58.
+
+[37:37] I don't recommend cooking duck breasts longer than about an hour because it doesn't happen all the time, but they can start tasting livery and the color can start going gray if they're cooked for too long. So I would not recommend cooking the duck breast too long. Also, I don't bag the duck breast with anything other than the duck breast. Uh they they don't really need it because here's what you're gonna and I don't cut it or do anything beforehand because you're not really rendering out fat at those temperatures. If you're cooking to 50, 57, 58, you're not really rendering a lot of fat.
+
+[38:07] So uh what I would do is bag the duck breast, put it on a table, squash the skin side flat so that later on when you sear it, it will um it will be flat against your pan, it's gonna sear out properly. Now I know the the good folks at Modernist Cuisine, you know, young Miravold, Belay, they I think do a pre-sear, a cryo sear. Uh they freeze the duck's skin, then they s uh they poke it with holes, then they freeze it, then they then they bag it, then they cook it, then they refreeze it, then they sear it. I typically, I haven't done a side-by-side, so I don't know what's better. I typically don't sear my duck breast before because what I'm doing when I do my sous- vide cooking is uh technique I call uh low temperature or sous vide for insurance purposes.
+
+[38:44] I'm ensuring that the duck breast is cooked throughout to the temperature I want. And then I cool it and then I sear it off as though I was doing a traditional cook on it. The only difference is is that now all I'm focusing on is crispy, delicious skin. So I'm not worried about cooking the duck breast because it's already cooked. So uh all I'm worried about then is rendering the fat and crisping the skin out.
+
+[39:11] Uh and so that's a and it's a whole there's a whole range of techniques like that that I call low temp, you might call it sous-vide, although you're wrong, it's low temp unless it's in a vacuum bag, which this is, uh, for insurance. I do that with roasts, I'll do it with poultry, I'll do it with a lot of things. And it it and what it lets you do is get a lot of traditional taste and texture, uh, but at the same time ensure that uh you have the meat cooked properly and that you're only focusing on one problem at a time, getting the skin right, instead of trying to get the skin right and the meat right at the same time. Okay? Now, uh as uh regards uh scoring it, uh Nils, and I have to agree with him here because I did a side-by-side, detests scoring uh the skin on a duck because when you score it, uh where you score it, you tend to overcook the meat because the steam when you're rendering goes up and overcooks the meat at that point.
+
+[40:01] Uh there's a f there's there's fly mageddon, by the way, going on outside. It's always something funny. There's something crazy always going on outside at Roberta's Pizzeria. Today is Fly Mageddon. They're like running around with smashing uh flies with uh with papers.
+
+[40:15] What? What was it last week? I don't remember. Oh, and last week it was Indie Jesus. Well, that's every week at Roberta's Pizzeria.
+
+[40:21] Uh so, anyways, so uh where was I? So uh I would use here's a technique that modernist cuisine does, which everyone can do, and I think is awesome. Go to your local pet supply store and purchase a dog combing brush, the one with all the little spikes in it, and instead of scoring the uh skin on the duck breast, whack it a few times with the dog with the stainless steel dog comb, and that way uh you can render out a lot of the fat without overcooking the uh meat. It's a great technique. I've tried it.
+
+[40:50] Uh I think it's awesome. Do not salt the duck before you cook it, salt the duck, maybe right before you sear it, and that's the that's the way to go. What do you think? Good. I'm gonna make a shout out to the guys who listen at Blue Hill at Stone Barnes.
+
+[41:04] All right, make a shout out. Hi. Well, that's quite a shout-out, Nastasha. You really know how to shout out. Be like, to the guys who listen at Blue Hill Stone Barns, keep it farming.
+
+[41:14] That's a shout-out. Anyway, okay. Uh Tim Hayes from Eugene, Oregon writes in uh regard I'll just read it. Hi, Tim from Eugene, Oregon here. Ready to tell you how great the podcast is and ask you a question.
+
+[41:28] I usually stay on the savory side when cooking, but lately I've been seduced by the sweet recipes from Christina Tozi's Mama Fuku milk bar book. Specifically the incredible cookie recipe she has so kindly shared with the world. My favorite cookie of hers is a corn is the corn cookie. I enjoy the corn cookie quite a lot. Do you like the corn cookie?
+
+[41:44] You don't like corn and cookies. You're a low quality person, Nustacha. Although I love you, but you're a low-quality human being. Okay. Wow.
+
+[41:50] Yeah. Right? I mean, you know what I'm saying. I'm so immune to it. What is you say to me?
+
+[41:57] What are you talking about? Like low quality when you call me that. I I it's like a it's like a nice love thing. Yeah. When other people hear you say it, they're like, whoa.
+
+[42:06] Yeah. Well, you know, it's with love folks. I don't want anyone, I don't want anyone to be like, whoa, you just called her a low-quality human being. One day we'll be low-quality human beings. Exactly, Jack.
+
+[42:18] Well, it depends. Uh, do you hate corn and peanuts? No. Do you hate biscuits? No.
+
+[42:24] Alright. Alright. Um, okay, sorry. Specifically the incredible cookie recipe she's so kindly shared with the world. My question relates to the epic hard-bodied 10-minute creaming of butter and sugar that the rest of her cookie recipes require.
+
+[42:37] Uh, and by the way, what what we're talking about here is Tozy recommends um uh a very long creaming process, 10 minutes where the sugar and the butter are creamed together uh and then the eggs are whipped in. And the uh basic idea is is to generate as much uh by the way, if you heard that thap ten seconds ago, it was part of Fly Mageddon going on in Robertus. Uh so the cream the prolonged creaming step uh whips a lot of air into the cookie and provides the uh structure that she likes in her cookie, and so she's very and we work in the milk bar commissary. I can say they cream the hell out of that stuff. Anyway, so uh my question relates to the epic hard body ten minute creaming of butter and sugar that her recipes require.
+
+[43:16] I see the reasons for this step uh to aerate the mix, but her peanut butter cookie recipe got me thinking. She mentions that you only need to cream this recipe for about three minutes because of the emulsifying properties of the peanut butter. Sure enough, uh the mix fluffs up much quicker. So a two-part question. What about peanut butter makes it such a great emulsifier?
+
+[43:34] And would it be possible to use emulsifying agents to quicken the creaming in other cookie recipes? Now I guarantee that the way that uh C Tozy figured this out was she noticed that her peanut butter stuff was uh cream, you know, was getting the amount of air beaten into it much more quickly than other things. Then the question is, is it really the emulsifiers in it that are doing it? And I did some initial research. Uh and it it it's hard to find.
+
+[44:01] Apparently, look, like protein, there is protein in peanuts, and that protein can probably act as somewhat as an emulsifying agent. Then the second question is well, perhaps there's what the was wrong with you, Nastasha. This guy's hitting the flies, but he's got this cigarette in the other hand. What does that have to do with anything? Stasi, she's crazy, she's crazy from big.
+
+[44:21] Anyway, so uh I looked up uh peanut butters, uh, industrial peanut butters. I looked up GIF and I looked up Skippy. Okay. Now, everybody knows, some people know, I should say, if you grind your own peanut butter or you buy natural peanut butter, the uh peanut oil separates from the peanut solids and has to be whisked back in, right? Peanut butter is basically you know, solids kind of emulsified into a it into peanut oil.
+
+[44:46] So GIF does that, good old GIF. GIF does that by adding monoandiglycerides, which is a straight up emulsifier. So if you use GIF, you are added, you are adding an emulsifier into your cookie mix, and that will help incorporate air, right? But uh if you look at Skippy's label, Skippy doesn't put monoandiglycerides in their regular peanut butter. Instead, they substitute a certain amount of peanut oil for a hydrogenated fat.
+
+[45:15] And that hydrogenated fat, which is solid instead of uh liquid at room temperature, prevents the separation of skippy peanut butter. Okay? So there's two basic ways that they can stop the separation of peanut butter emulsifiers or with uh adding uh a hydrogenated fat. My prediction look towards more people adding uh emulsifiers because less and less people are going to want to add hydrogenated fat because of the bad wrap hydrogenated fat gets. This guy is freaking serious about killing flies, by the way.
+
+[45:43] That's it. It's crazy. It's like it's like seriously, it's like it's like, you know, war crimes against flies. He's like going crazy over here. Anyway.
+
+[45:44] Uh but that led me to think. Actually, I think what's going on is that the peanut butter itself is acting as a whipping agent, right? So when you're creaming sugar and uh butter, uh the sugar, the particles in the sugar before they dissolve and melt are acting as uh basically they're carving holes in the butter as you as you're whipping, and they act as a whipping and aerating agent. And I think the tiny particles in peanut butter are also acting as a whipping agent, which is why you can actually whip peanut butter if you add a little liquid to it, you can whip it up on its own. So I think it's probably not the emulsifiers that are doing it, but the fact that a peanut butter itself is acting as a whipping agent.
+
+[46:32] I could use a peanut butter cookie right about now. Maybe I'll go to milk bar and steal a peanut butter cookie. Are we going there? We're going to milk bar because I have work work to do, but I'm gonna I'm gonna steal a peanut butter cookie. So if anyone there is uh you know, beyond notice, I'm gonna steal a peanut butter cookie from you.
+
+[46:46] Anyway, uh, I hope all of you have a fantastic Thanksgiving and a delicious, delicious, delicious turkey on your turkey day. Cooking issues.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] This episode is brought to you by Intuit QuickBooks Bill Pay. You didn't start a business to spend your Sundays chasing invoices and manual data entry. But as you grow, accounts payable starts to feel like a full-time job you never applied for. Bills pile up, approvals get lost in email, and your vendors are constantly asking, where's my check? It's distracting.
+
+[0:18] It's stressful, and it's keeping you from the work that actually moves the needle. Intuit QuickBooks Bill Pay is the exit ramp. QuickBooks Bill Pay automates the busy work that eats your calendar by bringing every bill, every vendor, and every payment into one organized dashboard. Stop chasing details and start seeing the big picture. Know exactly what's due, who needs to sign off, and how it impacts your cash flow before the money leaves your bank.
+
+[0:39] Vendors can even manage their own details, so you stay in control of how and when you pay. Grow with confidence and put your AP on autopilot in QuickBooks. Learn more at QuickBooks.com slash Billpay. Again, that's QuickBooks.com slash Billpay. Terms apply.
+
+[0:53] Money movement services are provided by Intuit Payments Inc., licensed as a money transmitter by the New York State Department of Financial Services. Broadcasting live from Robert is in Bushwick, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. I'm Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you live every Tuesday on the Heritage Radio Network in the back of Roberta's Pizza Willia in Bushwick, Brooklyn, from approximately 12 to 1245.
+
+[1:37] Here today as usual. Oh, let me show you the number first. Yeah. Alright. Calling all of your questions to 718497-2128.
+
+[1:43] That's 718497-2128. We'll take any kind of question. Anything you got, whatever you got, we'll take it. Anyway. Here in the studio, uh, joined as usual, uh with uh Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, who uh uh joined me for my second my Sunday Thanksgiving, right?
+
+[2:00] Mm-hmm where we cooked uh Patrick's uh heritage Wacalote. That for those of you that don't speak that that means bobble turkey, right? So we cooked up a heritage turkey eggs delicious, right? What's the name of the farmer again? Reese don't know.
+
+[2:15] Sorry, I'm slow here. Frank Reese. Frank Reese, yeah. So it was uh it was a delicious turkey. I think I didn't cook the um the uh dark meat long enough.
+
+[2:24] So here's what I did, folks. Uh so I have to admit, I was going up to Mystic Connecticut where my in-laws live, and uh they'd already bought a turkey by the time I told them I had a turkey. So I was like, you know what? Crap on it. I'm gonna let them cook the turkey, do whatever they want.
+
+[2:38] It was good, by the way. They didn't horribly overcook it. They brined it, thankfully, which uh, even though I love my man Harold McGee, you know I love my man Harold McGee. He says not to brine the turkey because it makes the drippings too salty. I disagree.
+
+[2:49] I disagree. Because I'd rather not have my breast meat be horribly mangled and overcooked. Right? Yes? Anyway, bubble.
+
+[2:56] Uh you know what? Also, uh, like traditional oven roasting, it does make a delicious crispy skin, which is hard to emulate using the other techniques. I mean, my exoskeleton technique, I was able to get a crispy skin, but you know, I'm kind of a stickler for such things. But traditional oven and skin is delicious, yeah? Yeah.
+
+[3:11] It's it's Los Bestos. This morning on the subway on 44th Street, there was a funeral for a police officer. How is this? Do you know what they were playing? What?
+
+[3:21] Bagpipes. Oh, uh, all right. So this fallen police officer has nothing at all to do with crispy turkey skin. Has more to do with uh the bagpipes that we were talking about at the end of last week's program, which uh, by the way, I never said we're not played at funerals. Nastasha's opinion is that they're exclusively played at funerals because the next time she saw them play was at a funeral, it reinforces in her completely illogical mind that that means that they're only played at funerals.
+
+[3:49] Go to Scotland. I count the score, Nastasha One, Dave Zero. Wait a second, wait a second, wait a second. Wait a second. You tell me.
+
+[3:56] You know what else people do the day that they go to a funeral? They pee. Does that mean they only pee for funerals? Listen, you guys gotta learn your logic. This is stuff I'm trained in.
+
+[4:05] Listen, Dave, go to some weddings in the city. Find the find the bagpipes. Look, police officers and firefighters, when they when they are are killed or passed away and they have a function, yes, they have bagpipes at those funerals. And because you are completely uncultured and don't understand the ways of Scotland, right? You assume that that's the only time that it happens.
+
+[4:27] That's all I'm saying. Okay. Look, don't get me started. You know, I took bagpipe lessons. You know what?
+
+[4:34] I like how she messes around with bagpipes. I took bagpipe lessons. I owned a set of bagpipes. I no longer uh, you know, I I didn't really progress because what like you start with a thing called a chanter, and you learn to play on on the chanter, which is you know soft and reasonable, and then you move up to your first set of real pipes. And when I moved up to my first set of real pipes, they weren't a very good set of pipes.
+
+[4:54] Uh you can, you know, they were a cheap set of pipes, so they didn't sound they wouldn't have sounded good even if I was good, which I wasn't. As soon as I start squeezing on the bag and those drones start wailing out, Jen's like, nope, you're done. Jen's my wife. Anyway, uh I hope she hasn't missed this because she'll get mad at me for telling that story. She always she always gets mad at me because she thinks I tell stories that make her seem like an ogre, but really it's just I'm unreasonable and she's a reasonable person.
+
+[5:16] Mm-hmm. Really is how it works, anyway. So don't talk crap about bagpipes. I'm warning you. I will go off.
+
+[5:22] Anyway, uh you know, look, if one of one of you wants to call in and talk crap about the bagpipes, go ahead. Let's see where that, let's see where that gets you. Anyway. Where was I? Delicious turkey skin.
+
+[5:34] So, anyway, so uh when I got back on Sunday and I was having the second Thanksgiving, uh, I had two problems. Once we had a lot a bunch of vegetarians over, so we had to make a vegetarian stuffing. And of course, like i i in my mom's style stuffing, that the prime component is uh sage uh sausage. So we had to substitute that up. But I thought it was a passable substitution, right?
+
+[5:52] I have to admit it was a passable substitution. Nastasha ate it, and she's not she's not even folks making her vegan face. Of course, it wasn't vegan because it was full of eggs and all sorts of other great stuff. Butter. Uh anyway, I thought it was pretty good.
+
+[6:03] But I didn't cook the turkey in uh Thanksgiving fashion, meaning I didn't uh feel a need to cook it whole. So I broke it into uh dark meat, light meat, cooked them at two different temperatures in a Ziploc bag and butter, pulled them out when they were still hot, let the skin dry off so that I could crisp up, threw them in the oven to crisp off the skin after they cooled down. My oven was acting up on me and went I had it set at 600 Fahrenheit and it went down to 400 without me noticing because somehow uh one of the controls had gotten switched off, so I was kind of irritated. And I then had to pull out a blowtorch to to crisp it before I threw it back in for the final crisping. I don't like blowtorch crisping because it tends not to dry out the skin and make it crackly the right way.
+
+[6:39] It just browns it up a little bit, which I find irritating, and also at least torch taste. So I shot the torch through a uh um a Nichrome wire screen to act as uh kind of a flame arrester and also a stink arrester from arresting the stink that comes out of propane when you shoot it onto uh uh turkey skin. But it was pretty good, I thought. I could have taken the uh the dark meat about a degree higher or something like that. I think.
+
+[7:02] I think I could have done it about a degree higher. But the breast meat was delicious. Uh duck meat, I mean the uh dark meat tasted good, it's just what, you know, whatever. What do you eat on Thanksgiving proper, Nastasha? Some overcooked turkey at some friend of a friend's house.
+
+[7:13] Wow, friend of a friend overcooked turkey. Is there anything worse than an overcooked turkey? This is why people think that turkey is bad, because they eat only overcooked turkey. And turkey, everyone's like, man, I just eat it because it's traditional. No, no.
+
+[7:25] Turkey is delicious if you don't overcook it. Turkey is delicious, delicious thing. Okay, today's show is sponsored by Modernist Pantry, supplying innovative ingredients for the modern cook. Do you love to experiment with new cooking techniques and ingredients, but hate to overspend for pounds of supplies when only a few grams are needed per application? Modernist Pantry has a solution.
+
+[7:45] They offer a wide range of modern ingredients and packages that make sense for the home cook or enthusiast. So who's an enthusiast that's not a home cook, by the way? See, after you read this a bunch, you start thinking about it. When you're just reading it, you're not thinking, but then when you read it a bunch of times, you're like, home cook or enthusiast? Like they're at home, but they're not enthusiastic and they're using it anyway.
+
+[8:02] Anyway, whatever. And most only cost around five bucks, saving you time, money, and storage space. Whether you're looking for hydrocolloids, pH buffers, or even meat glue, you'll find it at Modernist Pantry. And if you need something that they don't carry, just ask. Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you with inexpensive shipping to any country in the world.
+
+[8:21] By the way, we verified that, as we said before. New Zealand, I think, right? Modernist Pantry is your one-stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients. Modernist Pantry carries ensorbit tapioca maltodextrin, which allows you to transform fat-based products like olive oil or peanut butter into a powder. Or a paste, actually.
+
+[8:37] I mean peanut butter is already a paste, but you can turn olive oil into a paste. This powder retains the flavor of the original product and dissolves when placed on your tongue, delivering it to your taste buds. Fans of cooking issues at place an order of $35 or more before next week's show. We'll get a free package of enzorbit to experiment with over the holidays. Holidays, I guess.
+
+[8:54] Yeah, we got some more holidays. Simply use the promo code CI64 when placing your order online at Modernistpantry.com. Visit modernistpantry.com today for all of your modernist cooking needs. Tapioca Maltodextrin, uh, and Zorbit brand tapioca maltodextrin is an interesting thing. So basically, there's uh like a whole, you know, years of cooks who just say, eh, need some tapioca maltodextrin.
+
+[9:15] And yeah, you know, tapio. I'm like, what are you gonna do with it? And they're like, I'm gonna make the powder. I'm like, don't ask for tapioca maltodextrin. You need ensorbit from National Starch, which is very specific tapioca maltodextrin, which is dextr tapioca maltodextrin is you take tapioca starch and you break it down into smaller pieces, eventually you get down to a place where the starch m uh starch molecules are broken down to something called maltodextrins.
+
+[9:36] Enzorbit is derived from tapioca, but is have very its main purpose in life is not this the turning oils into powders, but it's a a bulking agent. It's extremely light. Like uh, you know, the the a pound of enzorbit is bigger than uh, you know, a pillowcase. It's huge, right? It's really lightweight stuff.
+
+[9:54] So it's a bulking agent. That's what it really does. And starches are interesting because they're a helix, right? A native starch molecule for it's been cooked out as a helix, and the outside of the helix is water-loving, and the inside of the helix, so it'll, you know, you know, water is fine with it. And the inside is uh oil-loving, right?
+
+[10:12] Water hating. And so what happens is you mix um enzorbit with a fat or an oil. That oil gets complexed inside the starch, right, inside the helix, but because it's not glomming on the outside, it retains a lot of its bulk density and it turns out to be a powder. Then as soon as you uh apply water in the form of your mouth, or if you try to make a powder out of something with water in it, which doesn't work, ding ding-ding-ding, right? It immediately dissolves and turns back into almost nothing.
+
+[10:41] So you take a very small amount of maltodextrin, which is relatively tasteless, and you make a powder out of an oil, and then it dissolves into the undermouth. That's how it works. But please don't uh try to make a powder out of an oil by just saying tapioca maltodextrin, because odds are it won't work. There's many, many, many, many tapioca maltodextrins in the world, and most of them won't do that, right? Mm-hmm.
+
+[11:04] Yeah. I don't care. That's what she's saying or so. I really I just I just don't care. Uh at least that that's what I'm reading out of this guest.
+
+[11:14] All right. Now, because I'm stupid, uh I didn't have my um I didn't have my thing open. So I'm gonna have to flail around here for a minute while I search for Oh, there it is. Wait, while I search for my questions for the day. And you know, I wouldn't have to search for my questions for the day, people, if you were to call in some questions, right?
+
+[11:32] Mm-hmm. Just saying. Okay. Uh that's awesome. Oh man That's awesome.
+
+[11:37] Okay. So, starting out. There's a caller. Oh, there's a caller? Hey, caller, you're on the air.
+
+[11:44] Oh, great, thank you. Um I have a quick question about getting kind of like a crust on a sour uh beer match. Okay. So I want it to have like a herb crust or some kind of other crust after it's finished cooking. How should I try to do that?
+
+[12:00] Okay. So there's a couple things. Um are you are you gonna use actual uh sous vide in a vacuum bag or are you gonna use low temp like in a Ziploc or something like that? Um I was gonna souvia in a vacuum bag. Okay.
+
+[12:11] Uh you m I mean you you're gonna have to um do it like a test or see what you feel. If if you actually uh put the herb crust on beforehand, you're gonna get uh quite a bit of the penetration of the herb flavor into the meat uh from the procedure itself, right? So the the the question you're gonna have to ask yourself is um you know, uh d do you want that much herb into the surface of the meat? And if you do, fine. Put it on beforehand.
+
+[12:38] If you don't, don't. Okay. The second thing is how long are you gonna cook it? Um uh in the bag. Yeah.
+
+[12:46] Um, probably about three hours at like fifty-six, fifty-seven. Are you gonna serve it? Yeah. Uh yeah, fifty-six, yeah. Are you gonna serve it the same day?
+
+[12:57] Um, yeah. Okay. So what I would do is is uh as soon as you pull the meat out of the circulator, right? I would cut the bag open, put the thing on a rack, and start the outside to dry off a little bit. You know what I mean?
+
+[13:13] Uh and let let it let it dry off a little bit and maybe even pat tall it pat it, and maybe even take a hairdryer, dry off the outside to to get some of the uh like the tacky moisture off the outside, then rebrush with oil or whatever you got, right? Uh and and then uh yeah, me like I would deep fry it. That's me. Because nothing's like, I'm gonna tell you, I I can't tell you. I have done bunches of racks of uh lamb, goat, whatever, and uh you throw that sucker in the deep fryer after it comes out of the bag if you let it dry off properly, and it's it's good business because it just puts an instant crust all the way around everything.
+
+[13:48] There's no kind of there's no problems with it at all. Do you know what I mean? It's just yeah, it's a good technique. So if you can deep fry it, deep fry it. Uh um, I don't have a deep fryer, but I I do have range or I probably have an induction burner that I could use to how many how many portions you make in?
+
+[14:05] Uh eighty. Ooh, yeah. You're gonna have a problem up because the problem is if you're doing eighty portions, um, you're going to um if you're doing eighty portions, you're gonna have an issue with um the oil getting really crappy if it's on a range 'cause it's just gonna keep going up and down and up and down and up and down. Do you know what I mean? Yeah.
+
+[14:25] Uh I mean I could set up like two or three hotel pans. Yeah. I mean uh I i is it a good oven or like a really hot oven? Probably yeah, I I can probably get pretty good broiler if I I'm in a broiler. I mean in in that case I might use a different thing from what I just said.
+
+[14:43] I might leave them in the bag, let 'em cool down, uh, pull 'em out, dry them really thoroughly, then maybe like hair dry them, put them on racks, uh like over the top of a roaster, uh, and then just throw them into a s like let them basically cool down, way down. You know what I mean? Throw them into a screaming oven. But I I don't like I don't you know if the problem is if they're too down in a pan or if they're like sitting in a butt with a bunch of potatoes, you get a bunch of blonde spots around where they are. So I you know put on a rack to keep it up so that the air can get all around them in a screaming hot oven.
+
+[15:16] And then uh all you're doing is looking for a nice crust formation on it. And then you can pull it and you won't have radically overcooked the inside and some of your people might like it even more because it's gonna have more of a traditional texture on the outside. It's gonna have more of that like overcooked zone. So I you know, in general I call that technique sous vide for insurance, and by that I mean you've you've insured that the center of the meat is cooked properly and then you just focused on crust formation, and as soon as the thing is brown on the outside and crusty p you pull it and the inside's gonna be good. Great.
+
+[15:48] Um have a can I pre-sear it before I put it in the bag? I will. I mean, I almost always do. I don't know uh 'cause I think it's gonna speed up crust formation afterwards. Um but you know, I've run some tests.
+
+[15:59] Uh we run tests every time I teach a sous-view class, and typically the crust formation is marginally better in the one that's seared before and after, but I mean don't salt it beforehand before you cook it. You know what I mean? Um because that you know uh that's gonna um make it kind of cured. I think uh the searing beforehand, um I like it, but I mean it's a matter of personal personal taste. I I haven't done I know that it does speed the browning on the second sear, but I don't know by how much.
+
+[16:33] Do you know what I mean? Yep. Um speaking of salting, I was thinking about maybe trying to phosphate brine with it. Would that be a horrible idea? Or uh I mean the thing is is is it's gonna f you it'll hold more water that way, but you you're gonna go sous vide, so you're not gonna overcook it.
+
+[16:51] You have no reason to inject more water into it. Okay, and it's gonna firm up the meat as well as it's gonna firm it as well as uh increase water. So since you're going through the trouble of sous-viding it, I wouldn't uh I wouldn't phosphate it up. Okay. Great.
+
+[17:07] Well that was really helpful. Hey, uh good luck. Let's know how it goes. All right, thank you. All right, back.
+
+[17:13] Okay. Uh Teddy uh Teddy DeVico writes in, and his uh his blog spot dot blog is teen teen chef Teddy. But he's been writing it for a couple years. I wonder whether he's still a teenager. Yeah.
+
+[17:23] He has to change his uh he has to change his blog then. Anyway. Uh hey Dave and Nastasha, don't ask Satasha, she doesn't care about your problems, Teddy. Just me. Just kidding.
+
+[17:33] You know, you're not. Well, you're saying you don't care about his problems? Is that what you're saying? Okay, all right. I need help making sweet potato fries.
+
+[17:40] No matter what I do, blanch fry fry or just fry fry, the fries get too much color before they get crispy. I know this happens because of sweet potatoes, high sugar and moisture content, but I cannot figure out how to get around this predicament. Maybe a soak in acidulated uh solution uh first, then roast, then fry fry technique would work. What are your thoughts then for the help? Well, it's a true story, uh Teddy.
+
+[18:02] It's uh sweet potato fries, uh they get too much color to them, right? So there are a number of things that are done uh because basically because of uh thing called reducing reducing sugars in there that even more than the regular sugar which causes browning, the reducing sugars in it cause browning. Um, you know, which is i.e. not sucrose, but the you know, invert in it. Uh so uh there's been a couple of studies based on trying to get the sugar, total sugar content of the uh at least of the surface of the potatoes down somewhat.
+
+[18:32] And uh there's a study that was done where potatoes were soaked uh by themselves, you know, just in water versus in uh salt versus in um in uh my brain uh ascorbic acid, which is I think what you're thinking about to stop the browning from taking place, enzymatic browning from taking Whoa, something just flew into my mouth. Ouch. Um, right? Uh versus citric acid versus uh acetic acid vinegar. Interestingly, uh the most sugar was leached out of the um potatoes by soaking them in a dilute.
+
+[19:08] Excuse me. That bug really did me wrong, and that flew right in my mouth by uh soaking in um dilute vinegar. Um, right? So here's what I would do. Then a second way to get the sugars out is by blanching.
+
+[19:20] So I would soak these suckers, these potatoes is what I mean, in uh a vinegar solution after they've been cut for uh uh you know, weak vinegar solution for a couple of hours. I would throw salt in too, but just because salt is delicious. Uh and it also helps with uh with uh color problems in French fries, but I don't know why or how. Then um I would pull them out of that. Then uh actually, you know what, you might not want to put the salt because it might reduce the amount of sugars that are pulled out.
+
+[19:46] Yeah, interesting question. Don't know, I'll have to look at it. Uh then I would blanch them in water, uh, and that's gonna leach out even more sugar. Uh, and then uh I would go through the um two-step frying process. One at a lower temperature to do your cook through and to form the crust, pull it out, let it cool down.
+
+[20:05] Bugs in my throat, and then after that I would uh do the final fry to crisp it up. But you do have a tough road to hoe. I was looking this up, actually, and uh there's an interesting problem where someone was making potato chips and they did something completely counterintuitive. Uh they were trying to minimize uh oil uh into the potato chip, which is a horrible idea because oil is delicious in a potato chip, necessary and delicious. But they check this out.
+
+[20:33] They took the potato after they they had uh blanched it and dried it, you know, uh just dried it like in a on an oven or dehydrator, and they threw it into a sugar solution, sugar solution, like strong, like 23% sugar by weight, and uh two sec for two seconds, and then immediately they let it drain for three seconds and immediately fried it. And they said that it was good. They said that it actually uh they said it absorbed less oil, which I don't know why I'm interested in that. But uh the fact that it didn't brown appreciably or didn't scorch in the fryer when they were making potato chips is very interesting to me. The other way, by the way, and I doubt you have access to this because very few people do, to uh decrease the color is to decrease the frying temperature of the oil.
+
+[21:15] Uh, but the only way to do that is to what? He's 15, Teddy. Was or is, and he's a Taurus. What does that mean? I don't know.
+
+[21:25] When is Taurus? April. It's like me and your wife. Oh. Well, my wife, I think, changed because they changed all the zodiacs.
+
+[21:34] I did not change, I'm still Aries. Anyway, Aries. So, um. Okay. So uh, as I was saying before, I was interrupted by this astrological uh thing.
+
+[21:44] The uh for Teddy. Alright, alright. Um, so uh vacuum frying is the other way to go. So you can reduce the uh temperature at which the o at which you can set the oil by reducing the pressure, thereby allowing water to boil up. Because water boiling out of uh of your product is what stops the oil from penetrating, right?
+
+[22:02] And and and things don't get crispy until the water is left, right? So you can uh reduce the temperature at which that happens by putting everything under a vacuum. Problem with that is is you need some hardcore equipment, and the other problem with it is is that what typically what happens is is you fry the thing under a vacuum, you then uh let the air back in, and whammo, all the oil is injected into the porous section of the fries, and so you get really greasy, soggy fries. So this happens with potato chips, although it's not as big a deal in potato chips, but it happens in French fries all the time, and you're worried about French fries, which is why vacuum frying can be difficult, other than the fact that it's very hard to do. Like the morons that do vacuum I excuse me, I didn't mean that.
+
+[22:42] The what's the word for moron that's friendly? Ninkam poop. Ninckam poop. The nincam poops that make kind of the uh consumer level vacuum frying situation didn't put a coal trap in between the fryer and the vacuum pump. So there's no possible way on God's earth that it can actually work as a vacuum fryer because it can't possibly recondense the liquid that it that it spews off.
+
+[23:03] Uh so the only way around that is to either use a cold trap or to use an aspirator pump that uh can reduce the pressure uh even when there's water vapor coming out of it all the time. Problem with an aspirator pump is is that if you make a lot of water vapor like you would when you're frying, think of the steam that comes out of a fryer. You're uh you're you're gonna you're gonna it's gonna start sucking wind and it's gonna get up to atmospheric pretty quickly. Anyway, but here's here's my question, Nastasha. And this is to you since you're the only one that's uh here, even if you know, only in body.
+
+[23:32] Uh the uh uh why don't they do this? Why don't they uh towards the end of the frying time ramp the temperature up and at the same time release the vacuum slowly so that there's always water boiling out of it until they reach atmospheric. Then they should be able to get most of the benefit of vacuum frying. Most of the frying will take place at a lower temperature, right? But uh uh, you know, at the end, when they're pulling it out of the oil, it's an atmospheric.
+
+[24:01] And so it's not gonna get that injection. What do you think? Yeah. Sounds good, right? But I would n no one in the literature has tried uh something like that.
+
+[24:07] I wonder whether there's a technical problem that makes it impossible. Uh anyway, apparently Nastasha's just slapped her watch, uh, which means that we are going to our first commercial break. Call your questions to 718-497-2128. 718-497-2128 cooking issues. I can think of younger days.
+
+[25:07] Everything a man could want to do I couldn't ever see more told how about the side can you a broken heart? How can you stop the rain? Oh, Al Green, welcome back to Cooking Issues. So the reason we played uh that song from Al Green is one of the questions I got anonymous was, Dave, what is a cure for a broken heart? And I thought that uh the Reverend Al Green, although he provides actually no solutions.
+
+[26:11] If you actually listen to the song, he provides no solutions. But they were taught maybe they didn't finish the sentence and it's like a broken or heart. He's like, how well how can you mend a broken heart? And the related question, how can a loser ever win? Mm-hmm.
+
+[26:24] Right. These are kind of related questions that Al Green asked. Maybe they were asking how to put together a broken heart of an animal that they were. Well, that's what I'm gonna have to I'm gonna have to assume. Look, I'm not an expert in mending broken hearts, but I am an expert in cooking hearts.
+
+[26:40] So I think I'll I'll shift it to the related question of Dave, how do you cook how do you cook hearts? Or why do you cook hearts? What do you mean weak? First of all, the heart is an extremely underappreciated uh culinary. I had amazing heart at my aelino.
+
+[26:53] Did you have it that day? No. What kind of heart? Pig heart. Yeah, pig heart is good.
+
+[26:58] With peppers and onions. Peppa peppers and onions. Peppers. Peppers. Sausage and pep and hearts.
+
+[27:05] Anyway, uh so uh it was good? So good. How do they make it every single day? I don't know. Was it was it was it uh all moist or was there some crunchy?
+
+[27:15] No, all moist. Almost, yeah. So that's a you know good way to cook heart. Hearts are delicious because they're uh and and for all you freaks who don't like fat, uh you're probably not listening to my show. But if you are, uh, you know, uh very, very lean and very kind of like it's got that really that kind of bloody taste, but without being kind of so bloody the way that like sometimes I like blood sausage, but some people don't like it because of the extreme bloody bloody flavor of it.
+
+[27:37] You know what I'm talking about? My you know what my personal favorite heart is? Chicken hearts. I love 'em. Chicken hearts.
+
+[27:42] You know, they're so delicious and yet like chicken hearted means like crappy. Like why would you why would you I mean they're so delicious? Chicken hearts. You like chicken hearts? I don't know if I've had it.
+
+[27:53] Oh my god. Duck heart's delicious, right? So good. Yeah, chicken heart is like slightly smaller than a duck heart, uh, which means uh I don't know, that they're slightly smaller, you can eat more of them. I look, I I love duck hearts, but I grew up eating chicken hearts.
+
+[28:09] Uh, and my favorite way is to is to see, you know, a giant skewer full of chicken hearts, god knows how you know. You know, think if you if I can get a skewer of chicken hearts, that means there's that many fools out there not eating the hearts of their chicken that they're eating all of those breasts and legs and not eating the heart. Um anyway, I just like it simply like roasted and then uh, you know, with like some chimicherry sauce or something. Stuff's just so good, chicken hearts. Anyway, uh you know what I we haven't done a lot of experiment with low temp hearts.
+
+[28:39] I mean, I've done it a couple times at home, but not enough to report. Mm-hmm. Hearts. Anyway, can't mend them, can cook them. Uh you know, but whoever's out there with a broken heart, time heals all wounds, mainly because you die at the end.
+
+[28:52] So you know, in other words, like that's what makes it tautologically true. Tautologically. Yeah, it's like it's like uh it's always true. It can't it can't be any other because uh we all have a finite existence, so it's always over at some point. Oh, heavy, heavy subjects here.
+
+[29:08] Wait, can you just comment on indie Jesus today? I I'm not what the show is not the indie Jesus show. We're talking about the uh the waiter here who is still looking like Jesus, came up and someone must have told him. I know he's not a listener, someone told him that we did it because he gave Nastasha the stink eye, but most people give Nastasha the stink eye because she throws off the I hate you vibe. He g he gives most people the stink eye.
+
+[29:29] Oh, really? Really? It's not us. So how the heck is he Jesus like if he throws a stink eye? Jesus doesn't throw a stink eye.
+
+[29:36] He needs to work on that. It ruins the look. Yeah. Anyway. Okay.
+
+[29:41] Uh uh follow up from Aaron. Hi, Nastasha and Dave. Uh we called in last week. Uh when I said I was still loving the show, I didn't mean to say I thought the show would turn to crap. I was just saying.
+
+[29:51] Um you answered a question of mine before with Harold McGee at that time. Uh I was blown away that I was able to get expert advice so easily, mainly from McGee, I assume, if he means it's expert advice. Uh and uh so anyway, so uh the question that was asked last week, uh I think last week or week before was on plating. And by the way, thanks for nothing for all you people giving advices to it, you know, for for plating, because we got zero responses on that, right? Anyway, uh the local library his local library is uh pretty well stocked with cookbooks, so you can get ideas there.
+
+[30:19] And he liked the response regarding uh thinking about the visual aspect slightly earlier during the preparation of the food. Uh I think the first time I think of the visual aspect is uh I put food on the plate. So it definitely should shift to earlier. I will definitely look at learning specific techniques such as canelling, and uh ultimately uh Aaron hopes uh that the standard way to get really good at plating is to turn out hundreds of plates of food under the guidance of a chef who has the expertise. Yeah, but it requires you work in a professional kitchen to do that, which is kind of a pain in the pain in the patoot.
+
+[30:45] Mm-hmm. Right? I can say Patoon on this, right? Yeah, anyway. Uh thanks for the follow-up, Aaron.
+
+[30:51] Uh okay, here's one for you. Howdy Dave and Nastasha, my 11-year-old daughter Sarabeth loves your podcast. I didn't realize we were a family show. I like that. Now we have to watch what we say.
+
+[31:01] Well, mean you. You're the only one that's dropped curses on this station. You talked about vaginal uh listen to yourself. Yeah. Listen to yourself.
+
+[31:08] First of all, I was talking about Lysol, which was an historical reference, and not anything to do with anything, and you just pulled it out apropos of nothing. Uh Jack, you know, can go over the thing, but I believe Nastasha's the only one that's ever cursed on this program. I've I've cursed. Oh, all right. Well.
+
+[31:23] I haven't, which is strange. Chris Young has too. He cursed? Really? Yes.
+
+[31:29] Oh, you potty mouth people. My 11-year old granddaughter uh granddaughter, my 11-year old daughter Sarah Beth loves your podcast. She wants to be a chef and go to culinary school someday. We listen to you all on the way to swim practice and back. Nice swim practice.
+
+[31:41] I wish I knew how to swim. You know how to swim. No, I I don't. Then the more I try to swim, it's like it's like uh you'd think, because I'm not exactly the leanest guy in the world, you'd think that I would float like uh easily, but the more I try and tread water, I I somehow corkscrew myself into the water. And actually, the more I try to tread, the faster I sink.
+
+[32:04] I mean, if you throw me overboard, I you know, I can I won't die right away. But uh, you know, I wouldn't call myself a swimmer. Anyway, my wife makes fun of me about it constantly. Uh, anyhow, uh Sarah Beth is doing her science fair pro now. You swallowed the bug.
+
+[32:20] No, I'm just sick. Thanks. Thanks for coughing on me with the sickness. Uh she's doing her science fair project called Make Mine Medium Rare, Heat Conduction and Steak. It's all about determining cooking time for beef steaks to get to medium rare, uh, medium and well done for various thicknesses of steaks.
+
+[32:35] Now, listen, you put numbers here, which are the normal numbers for uh rareness, i.e., medium rare is 145 degrees, medium 155, and well done, 170. Let me just say right off the bat, these numbers are like crazy wrong, crazy high. For me, medium rare is not a 145. Wait. I can't do my I can't do my math in my head anymore.
+
+[33:01] It's crazy. 57 is 135. So for me, medium rare is more like uh 135 Fahrenheit in that range. Uh and all of the temperatures that people register are typically above it, and I don't know why. But if you served me a hundred and forty five degree steak, medium rare, I'd be like, nah, not so much medium, right?
+
+[33:20] Okay. Uh, we are trying to find out what uh the relationship is between thickness of stakes and the cooking time to hit those temperatures, all other things held constant. We will be using three bonus cuts of meat one inch, one point five inches, and two inches thick. The bibliography uh reference for the experiment is from Harold McGee's The Curious Cook, pages 33 through 34. Excellent book, out of print, unfortunately.
+
+[33:41] I keep telling him to bring it back or give you know, put it on the web or some other kind of crud. Uh so here's our question. Uh, we are trying to decide the best way to cook the steaks to keep the only variable in the experiment the thickness of the steaks. There are two suggested ways to cook the meat boiling them in water or cooking them in a 300 degree oven. Which would be the best method to uh to use to control the temperature that the meat is cooked in to keep exactly the same for all three cuts of meat.
+
+[34:03] We don't have sous vide equipment or anything. We do have a gas range, convection electric oven, and pots to boil in, and a sixth grade science fair budget. Thank you for the great podcast. Okay. So sixth grade.
+
+[34:13] So here's here, okay. Here's the issue. A couple issues. Let's go into it. One, um, the relationship between thickness and to really get the relationship between thickness and how long it's going to take to get to a particular temperature when you're cooking at a particular temperature, uh, involves uh doing some differential equations, which is, you know, hey, look you, you know, when I was growing up, that was well beyond what they taught a sixth grader.
+
+[34:38] Who knows what they teach a sixth grader nowadays? Anyway, you need to know some differential equations for that to actually calculate it. Um, and then it's done uh basically comp you know you know on a computer that just does the iterations of and does it and find solutions for it. Um but roughly and and the shape of the meat that you use radically changes uh the amount of time it takes to uh for something to get up to temperature. So most things are modeled as either one of three things or something in between.
+
+[35:08] And those three things are flat slab, which is like a steak, right? Or uh cylinder, which is like when uh when you make like a roulade, or a sphere, which you know does a sphere, right? Now, uh, luckily for you, right? Uh, if well, I should say luckily for you, I don't know if you have an iPad. If you have an iPad or an iPod, right?
+
+[35:30] Uh, there's someone that wrote a uh there's someone who wrote an application uh called Su Vash. Now it's five bucks. All right. And I have you know, this is how much I love the listeners here. I spent my own five bucks and I bought the application to look at it, right?
+
+[35:46] And Nastasha, you know that like getting five dollars out of me is like squeezing water out of a rock. You know what I mean? And even Moses had trouble with that. You know, Moses, right? Moses the Moses, right?
+
+[35:57] The first time God's like, strike the rock, and and he's because the Israelites are thirsty, right? Should I do this in like uh Jersey, Jersey Bible? Well, in a minute. So he so he strikes the rock, and then later on, got like like you know, years and years, years, years later, the Israelites are thirsty again, they've been wandering around for 40 years, blah blah blah. God's like, hey Moses, go to the rock, talk to the rock, and water's gonna come out of the rock.
+
+[36:20] So Moses walks up, he's like, last time I had to hit the freaking rock to get the water out. I had to hit it to get the water out. I'm gonna hit it again. Hits the rock. God's like, oh, oh, hitting the rock.
+
+[36:36] I said, talk to the rock. And so uh, you know, Moses is like, hey, you know, well, I thought, you know, if I'm gonna talk to it, I might as well punch it, hit it with a stick. It's gonna be better. It's like, hey, Moses, don't think. I said talk to the rock, and that's the reason he didn't get uh to lead the uh Israelites into the promised land.
+
+[36:53] How messed up is that? I like how he covered Jesus and Moses on the show. Hey, hey, hey, we're equal opportunity, old and new testament. We'll bring it. That's from Dave Arnold's Jersey Bible.
+
+[37:03] Uh so the uh uh stupid. Okay, so um, but you can download uh for five bucks, you can download uh the Sue V dash, and what it does is it actually plots on a graph. Uh you put the type of meat you're using, and the reason the type of meat that you use is important is because different fat level different meats have basically different uh uh specific heats, how how like how hard it is to heat them up to a different temperature, and also probably different uh rates of thermal conduction through them based on fat and all these other things. So you want to um you want you know to enter the meat, right? Then you can enter the shape of it, uh, which is uh, you know, usually like some form of a flat slab or a a s or a cylinder or a sphere.
+
+[37:49] Uh and uh and then and the other cool thing is this program can customize all this stuff. So there's there's a there's a a coefficient that's basically a shape coefficient that that changes the equations based on uh what the shape of the thing is, and uh a pure flat plane is uh is uh the coefficient is zero for a you know pure cylinder, infinitely long cylinder, coefficient one, and for a sphere, coefficient is two. Uh but uh in reality, right, the equations really only modeled for these kind of pure things, but in reality what they do is they're like, well, an egg is not quite as you know, it's not quite a sphere, it's more like you know, a cylind sphere. And so they're like, instead of it being a two, right, it's got a coefficient of one point eight. But the cool thing about this program is it allows you to dork with uh if you go to the expert level, you can dork around with the coefficients, and you can see how changing that coefficient changes the rate at which things heat.
+
+[38:44] But not to spoil it for you or anything, but the um if you double the size of a flat slabs we're talking now, infinite flat slabs, big steak. Uh if you double the thickness, the amount of time it takes to get it to temperature will be roughly four times greater. Every time you double it, it goes up by a factor of four because it goes by the square. I think they're asking how they should cook it. I'm gonna get to that.
+
+[39:06] I'm being thorough. Um geez. So uh here's the other here's the other bad news about it, though, is that uh in terms of the way the meat looks, and and when I say that, the way that the myoglobe and the proteins in it are going to get denatured, uh, which is what provides a lot of the color in the meat, it the way it gets uh denatured is radically dependent on how long it takes to cook the product. So what I would run a couple of different tests. Ovens aren't so good because um the size of the piece of meat in it, uh not just the thickness, but the size on how much moisture is coming off is going to affect the temperature, uh, how quick the surface can dry out because you're in a dry oven.
+
+[39:45] I mean, it's just the oven's kind of inaccurate. Boiling is unfortunately so kind of hardcore. I mean, you can do it, right? I would recommend getting this application to dork around with the different um the different factors to kind of look at them. Um but then I would I would go boiling water.
+
+[40:02] Uh, you know, if you want to try some lower temp stuff just as a test, you can do what I've said before, which is you can run uh uh hot water out of your tap, which is you know, depends on your tap, might be hot enough to cook a steak. Not up, you're probably not gonna be up to well done. But um you can do the other thing you can do is get a cooler and uh do some uh tests that way. But the only way to do a real scientific experiment where everything is kept constant is to have something in a rolling boil. And uh you know, uh if you're gonna use boiling water, that is a rolling boil.
+
+[40:36] And what that means is is you're not gonna want to uh put a big piece of meat in because if you put a big piece of meat in, you're going to um if you put a big piece of meat in, you're going to uh drop the temperature of the water locally to the meat. The other problem you're gonna have is you're gonna want to try to keep the meat so that it's uh even thickness all the way around, which is gonna be difficult for you because uh it's just gonna be difficult because the meat's gonna be moving around in the water. So and but it's gonna be extremely hard for you to do anything else, like bolt it between two plates with with you know thumb screws so you can get the thickness exactly the way you want. I mean, you could do that. I've done it.
+
+[41:13] It's dumb. I've done it, you know what I mean? But it is a pain in the butt. Uh you're you're gonna want to try to keep the thickness as accurate as possible because it is gonna make a big uh a big difference. So or if they're in the New York, New Jersey, Connecticut area, they can borrow my circulator.
+
+[41:28] I hear that. Yeah, that's a good offer. Uh but here's the other things you're gonna have to deal with is the how you're gonna measure the temperature on the inside, or you're just gonna do it by visual inspection, right? Um visual inspection, meh, meh, meh. You know what I mean?
+
+[41:42] Uh but on the other hand, temperature, meh, meh. You know what I mean? There's it's not so bueno. You know what I mean? Now, uh assuming that you're gonna be into this stuff, you can get uh digital thermometers now pretty cheap.
+
+[41:55] But an easy way to do it is to get like a multimeter that has a uh thermocoupled thing, and then you can get very fine thermocouples. They're down to like I think you can get like a thermocouple for like sixty bucks, and you can get a multimeter that'll read it on Amazon for like uh or even just a thermometer for another like 30 or 40. Uh so I mean that's a hundred bucks. I don't know whether you want to go that far, but your average instant read thermometer it has a bunch of problems. It's too big.
+
+[42:18] It uh it's not very fast and also it has a high enough thermal mass in itself to drop the temperature that you're reading. So it can be problematic. Um I being helpful at all you're like not really you're not really helping her at all in our project. I gave her the name of the program to look at nostas yeah all right all right all right well listen uh if you have more questions uh come back there's nothing I love better than a science fair I used to like I don't know whether you you could probably guess this I had some butt kicking science fair stuff my dad's uh double E electrical engineer and he used to help me out on my science fair projects and one time he helped me calculate um uh like a bunch of a mirror array to get them all focused on the same point and he was showing me how parabolas work and all that and so we built a big mirror array that focused a hundred mirrors I found this mirror shop that uh gave me stuff that for almost nothing I was like but they don't need to be high quality I'm a little kid and I don't have any money. So like take these mirrors they're almost free.
+
+[43:18] And uh and I glued the mirrors like uh and then we were like you know lighting stuff on fire. So some other kid was coming with like with their little hot with their little parabolic reflect reflector hot dog oven and I walk in with like you know a four foot by four foot array of uh a hundred mirrors uh like four by four inch mirrors uh and with instantly light paper on fire stuff was awesome anyway I love a science fair so if you have any uh questions please write back and we'll address them. Yes? Sort of yeah sort of what is it that you want me to say that I didn't say? Nothing.
+
+[43:46] Just write back and let us know how deep it is. Yeah, jeez. Yeah. And look, uh, I'm not endorsing the program. In fact, it has some issues.
+
+[43:54] Like, for instance the the program CV dash, when you look at it, like if I change it from chicken to beef, it changes all my other settings. I was like, listen, I put the other settings where I want them. Why would you change it? Just because I changed it from chicken to beef. Come on.
+
+[44:08] Soogie dash. All right. Another good place to look for that. If you can do the differential equations uh for her, or like I say, if she's incredibly precocious, Douglas Baldwin has a uh an explanation of how the equations work on his website about Sue V. Okay.
+
+[44:24] Hey Dave. Nice. This is Ryan Santos. What's the best way to cook a goose sous vide? Uh looking to cook the legs to a comfy like Dunnness.
+
+[44:31] Imagine two different times and tents, but not sure what those are. Uh okay. So, yeah, with the with the goose, I break it apart. I'd uh, you know what you could do actually. I don't know if this would work or not, but I wonder whether you could roast the goose so that it looks awesome and then just not serve the legs.
+
+[44:47] Cut the legs off and then confide them separately. I don't know. I would cook goose like I cook a duck, which means uh 57 uh degrees is my go-to. And if it's a little tough, not for for no the breasts I'm talking, once you remove the breasts, cook them at 57 for no longer than an hour. Uh and you know, if if they're a little tough, you can do like 58.
+
+[45:11] Let them cool down, uh, hit with the dog brush a la uh modernist cuisine and then sear off the goose to render out some of the uh the fat, make it crispy and delicious. I would confide the legs uh in uh vacuum, I would salt them overnight uh and err salt and herb them overnight. Uh, you know, get rid of the excess salt, uh, throw them in a bag with their own fat, you know, just with what they are, uh, and cook it at regular simmering temperatures, like 85 and for a couple of hours, you know, until the bone feels free in the uh in the thing, and you'll know it's done. Let them cool down in their own fat. When they're ready to go, pull them out, crisp them up, delicious.
+
+[45:49] Yeah? All right, let's go to our second commercial break. I'm so in love with you. Whatever you want to do. So brand to spend my life with you.
+
+[46:44] Okay. Since we've been together. Love me. Be the one you come on to welcome back to cooking issues. Uh my schedule is totally thrown off today because uh we don't have a clock in the studio.
+
+[47:16] Nice. Anyway. Todd W Oh, let me get the second question uh from uh uh second question from Ryan. Secondly, I want to replicate Wiley, that's why they do frame my brother-in-law's around uh aerated foie gras recipe. I have a food saver and a vacuum box thing, but no chamber vac.
+
+[47:29] I'm curious if I aerate the foie base in a whipper and then in a vacuum box, if that would help get the aeration going. I've had success doing this with ice cream base to aerate the ice cream. Just wanted a second opinion before attempting this with expensive foie. Now I don't have uh his recipe in my head for the aerated foie, but I believe he uses foie fat. And uh you could probably use a substitute for foie fat like duck fat or something harder than that.
+
+[47:51] I forget what it was. I w you know, next time I ask him, I'll I'll uh I see him, I'll ask him, but they didn't test out all those recipes with like boatloads of foie because it would be really expensive. They tested with an alternate cheaper fat. Uh and I forget what it is. Uh I don't think it was butter because it doesn't behave the same way.
+
+[48:07] I think it was uh I think it was duck fat or maybe a mixture of duck fat and butter. But anyway, um the aeration that they get at WD or did, you know, um back when they had this on the menu uh with uh ice cream was like the stuff was so aerated that it was like ancient food cake. So if you can do that, you could probably aerate the foie. Um I would run a test with a cheaper fat just to see whether it bubbles up. You know what I mean?
+
+[48:29] Like do something with do it with duck fat or do it with uh butter to see if it aerates. It won't set uh the same way, but just see if it see if it aerates. Uh let me know. And next time I speak to Wiley, I will ask him what they use as foie substitute when they're testing out recipes so that they don't break the bank. Okay.
+
+[48:47] Uh Todd Bryant writes in. Hey there, I'm traveling abroad to Israel and Turkey. I'd like to go to Turkey. And Israel, but I'd like to go to Turkey. I've done a lot of studies on Turkish uh food stuff and I've had some Turkish interest.
+
+[48:58] Anyway, do you have any tips on how to bring back yummy and rare foodstuffs, meats, cured meats, cheeses, fresh or dried fruits, spices or liquids in my luggage without them being confiscated by the Cretans at Customs. Thanks, folks, Brian. Nastasha, you're a sneak. What do you think? I I don't know.
+
+[49:15] I mean, just stuff it in the bag and don't say anything. Well, that's a helpful freaking tip. I mean, what's he what what do you mean? Well, okay, look. Obviously, vacuum bag anything so the dogs can't sniff it.
+
+[49:28] Yeah. Right? Uh, look unassuming. Yes. It you know, it you know, if you if you're if they're racist, it helps to be uh, you know, like look like me, boring white guy.
+
+[49:41] You know what I mean? That's helpful. Um, sad to say, but true. Um, I don't know, you know, I've brought some evil stuff back in. I haven't done it recently.
+
+[49:53] My sister-in-law brought an entire prosciutto back in her backpack. You know, but I think the dogs are much more hardcore now, and I don't know what the penalties are. Steingarten has an interesting thing about this. He just says what he has, he declares it, and usually they're just too like whatever to look at it. They just look at him and he pretends.
+
+[50:09] Another thing you could do, like with cheeses, is you can just say, hey, they're aged more than 60 days. Oh, yeah. I brought a cat on a plane that was one month old, and I told them it was eight months. And they were like, okay. Yeah.
+
+[50:21] You gotta know the rules and get around it. Look, no one's gonna look if you're going to Turkey, get celeb dun derma. It's not done term, that's the ice cream, but get celebrated the orchid powder. And you know, I don't know, it's not drugs. So you like tell them that it's not, you know, whatever.
+
+[50:34] I never get stopped. Almost never. On once in Germany, and I got hardcore hosed. But uh other than that, I almost never get stopped. Man, I want people write in, see what they think about this.
+
+[50:44] Now listen. Don't bring anything then that actually could cause an echo epidemic. Like, don't bring citrus fruit from someplace to the United States to California, and then you know, totally shaft a billion dollar industry because I don't want to give advice to help that happen. That makes sense. Does that make sense?
+
+[50:59] Anyway. Okay. Uh now, let me see what we got here. Okay. We got a c uh question in from Andrew, uh, who says, uh see, we should post a poll on the blog asking who listens to our show on a specific date, and we can even put options for live listening and potcast, and then that way we can figure out what's going on.
+
+[51:21] What do you think? Yeah, that's a good idea. We'll look into it. But anyway, the main reason he's emailing is that his pressure cooker is broken and it sucks, and so he's looking to buy a new one. I've read on your various posts on pressure cookers and modernist cuisine's chapter on them, and I'm still not totally sure what the best option is.
+
+[51:36] Uh, I know you like Coon Recon, which I do, uh, but modernist cuisine got me worried about the spring indicator becoming inaccurate over time. And there's also the matter of choice between a model with the large thing on top or the little pin. The all American, the all-American pressure canners what we're talking about. Looks good, but he's unsure whether the sterilizer or the normal pressure cooker is the better option. The sterilizer concerns me because the tube from the valve going into it and how long it is, and the manufacturer says it's not to be used as a pressure cooker.
+
+[52:00] What's up, Sus? I'm in the middle of the collar. There's a color. Alright, let me finish reading this and I'll go to the collar. On the other hand, if I was to go to the all-American pressure cooker, how practical and safe is weighing down the weight valvey thing?
+
+[52:09] What I want out of this is the best possible option for both canning and pressure cooking, and cost matters uh in so much as I want only have to buy one thing and what size should I get. Okay, qua I'm gonna answer that in one second. Caller, you're on the air. Hi, David Nastasha, it's Ken Angbert from Situit, Massachusetts. Hey, how you doing?
+
+[52:25] Long time no speak. Long time no speak. How are you? All right. Uh, two things.
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+[52:29] One, I came back from France a couple of weeks ago and uh brought back some foie gras and truffles and had relatively little difficulty, but a friend of mine who brought back more or less the same thing, but also brought back a sausage. Uh the dogs were all over the uh sausage and then the customs people opened up everything and if I looked into it a little bit and it turns out that there's no uniformity. It's uh very much discretion at the airport so rules in one place will have no bearing on anywhere else. And you're coming into Logan? Uh I was coming it well actually it turned out we were both coming into Logan although they were moving on.
+
+[53:05] Right. Is Logan still pretty hardcore? Uh well I I had to uh assure them that everything was cooked and sealed as if it were in a can and they were skeptical but they let me through but I looked into it around the country. It's uh not uniform at all. Right and I you know I've had an issue actually the only time I've gotten hammered was with a sausage so it's interesting.
+
+[53:24] I mean maybe and I'm assuming the sausage wasn't vacuum packed down so it had probably more residual smell to it. No, it was it was uh from an open air market that you couldn't pass by. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah. So I mean uh obviously minimize stuff that the dogs can smell and know how to talk a good game and be prepared to lose everything, right?
+
+[53:43] Well uh yes and also you need to declare everything. If you if you if they catch you uh you're in trouble. You mean yeah if they yes right so say you're bringing some foodstuffs back but just pretend that it's all legit and then if they catch you with it being illegit you could just say you didn't that this is a misinterpretation, is that what you're saying? Yes, the Steingarden approach sounds right to me. Yeah.
+
+[54:04] Very good. Uh I I have another question though. Alright. Uh it a fairly simple one I think, which is um I you know I I cooked a turkey for Thanksgiving and according to various charts, it should have been in the neighborhood of five hours, and it was done in about two and a quarter. And other people have the same uh same result.
+
+[54:25] And what's going on is is it that the steam from the uh um from the stock underneath is steaming it and just cooking it much much faster? Well, what was the cooking technique? Uh uh roasting um I roasted it like 325. Um, but I poured, you know, uh a couple of quarts of stock into the roasting pan at the bottom. Right.
+
+[54:51] I do that as well to stop from scorching. I don't know if that's going to accelerate it or not. Uh when they the the numbers for how fast it's going to be done was based on open cavity bird. Yeah. Huh.
+
+[55:03] It was it was a nine 19-pound bird, and uh it should have been by charts about five hours or so. But it's all every year it's the same thing. I I don't want to uh I don't I don't I want to time it properly. I wind up using some chart and it's always done two or three hours early. Well those charts are always horrible.
+
+[55:22] They're horrible. They're based on like bad, they're based on you know bad stuff. We should get like one of these guys like Doug Baldwin or something to actually figure it out based on like circumferential measurement of the turkey's breast and then approximate the gap, you know, the internal uh void. Right. Um I wonder whether the stock's gonna make an appreciable difference.
+
+[55:43] I don't know, but I will look into it. Okay. Alrighty? Good enough. Thanks.
+
+[55:47] Take care. Hey, thanks for calling in. All right. Quickly back to Andrew's pressure cooker problem. Uh look, the American pressure canner, uh, I love them, and they're the only way to go for big, big things, and they go up to higher pressures than other things.
+
+[56:00] They can make it up to like a you know 22 PSI, which I don't really think is necessary. But I think they're a pain in the butt because you have to seal a bunch of uh hand knobs all the time to make sure that they're not leaking. They're made out of all aluminum, which means that you have to take care of them when you wash them with detergents, and some people don't like to cook acidic stuff in aluminum or you know, basic stuff in aluminum. Um, so they need protection. Uh they tend to take up more space in the kitchen.
+
+[56:21] Uh I like it because it's very accurate and I can run experiments with it, but for normal cooking, I don't use it. Um the um I would use the I Coon Recon is great. I don't really care. I mean, like the spring, I don't know if it actually loses accuracy over time or not, but the spring is almost free. You can buy a bunch of springs if you're worried about it and replace it.
+
+[56:43] I have the one that has the spring right in the center that goes up and down, and I've used it for you know f you know six years or something like that, and I've never had a problem with it, other than I broke the handle off of it and uh I shattered the plate on the top. Uh and so it's kind of weird looking, but the thing still cooks like a demon. Uh you know, I had to replace the gasket once. Uh I would stay away from uh you know the the models that um vent because I think it uh kind of reduces uh the taste profile. I'll get the biggest one that you can.
+
+[57:12] Another thing is like some people will sell you two pots and then one lid, which you can go back and forth. But I mean I like the Coon Recon. I mean, they don't they don't pay me or anything, but I like them a lot. Uh and I haven't had a problem with them kind of going uh going south on you. I mean I just haven't.
+
+[57:28] Uh there was I I read uh some uh QC problems, quality control problems with Coon Recon for a little while, but I think they have that thing, they have that thing fixed. So I would go for it if you have the money. I've never needed anything else. In fact, when I have to work at work, I bring my home pressure cooker in rather than using the crappy ones that they have there. Just saying.
+
+[57:46] Not saying that they're crappy, the ones that they have at the FCI, I'm just saying that they're crap. Okay. By the way, my son thinks crap is a curse. Yeah, it is when you're young. Whatever.
+
+[57:57] Okay. But not for an 11-year old, we're okay. Yeah. Okay. Okay.
+
+[57:59] Uh, and we'll round out on this. By the way, he has the best sign off for us ever, which is keep on keep being awesome. You like that? So nice. Anyway.
+
+[58:11] Okay. So, my other questions uh are more about your personal views on subjects, so if you need to sacrifice them for someone else's more tangible questions, that's cool. Well, I won't. I'm gonna end with them instead. I was wondering what your views are on the waste involved with sous vide or low temperature cooking.
+
+[58:24] I often feel guilty about throwing out Ziplocks after only using them for a few hours, and I'm slightly horrified at the thought of what a restaurant that employs the method must go through. A bit hippie ish, but I can't help it. Alright. Uh it is it's look kind of an issue, but on the other hand, I mean you can reuse the Ziplocks. Nobody does, because it's a huge hell mess to uh clean them out and they're all goopy, and if you're gonna save them for a long time, it's a nightmare.
+
+[58:47] I'd have to do a a calculation based on total final usage of materials uh and resources in terms of like the less amount of energy it takes to cook using that way versus an oven, the less you have to evacuate your kitchen because you're using low temperature instead of using uh something that uses it burns up a lot of gas. I'd also have to figure out how much plastic wrap I'd have to use to wrap the stuff afterwards if I wasn't using Tupperwares or something that seals itself. So there's all sorts of things, uh, but it is uh uh something that um I should probably think about more than I do. What do you think, Stuz? Yes.
+
+[59:19] Yeah, she's like, I don't care, you're too late, I'm not gonna give you anything than one-word answers. Only one-word answers for you at this point. Anyway, my other question is what we're gonna end on. My other question is about your views on using MSG in cooking. Many chefs know and actively say that MSG hasn't been found to have any negative effects, yet they will still go out of their way to include MSG-rich foods in their dishes rather than go for the pure stuff.
+
+[59:41] Now I know that in some cases these foods give complimentary flavors, but there are other cases, like Hester Blumenthal using seaweed and a shepherd's pie, where the ingredient is purely for its umami boost. Okay. Alright. It's very interesting question. Look it.
+
+[59:57] I don't use MSG. I just never got in the habit of it. But I do use a lot of MSG stuff, and uh I am one of those people that happens to know because I've read all of the studies and don't use crazy post hoc ergopropter hockey theological stuff. This is a separate question. If you had read the question or even listened to it while I was speaking, you would see it's a separate question.
+
+[1:00:19] The question is, uh, why do chefs not use it even though they know it's safe? And I think there's a couple of reasons. I think mainly it goes to perception. I think uh, you know, when you're a chef and you're cooking something, you have to not only cook to what you think is right, but you have to cook to what your customers think is right, or you're gonna alienate a lot of people. And the high-end people, right?
+
+[1:00:42] Uh there's a whole group of kind of farm to table, like, you know, as you said, hippie-ish people who won't consume MSG on principle, right? And so then to put that in your dish cuts off an entire group of people from uh from using it, right? For from enjoying your food, and it injects a level of controversy into your menu that you might not want to inject in. You know, it's just, you know, unless you unless you're like Dave Chang, who's like, you tell me foie gras bad, so every menu on the every menu item is gonna have foie gras. Shut up.
+
+[1:01:16] Like he does, he can do does stuff like that. He'll make points. But you know, unless your point is to make a point about it, you don't want to alienate someone for something that you can do in some other way. Especially if you haven't grown up using it as a spice, you get around it in other ways. In other words, like there's things that like uh there's things that you believe in that you don't do yourself, or there's things that you're not willing to go to.
+
+[1:02:09] I don't know. Your point, I think, is that maybe they feel a little dirty using it. Even though they say it's okay, that they feel a little dirty doing it. And maybe you're right. It's an interesting question.
+
+[1:02:20] I have to think about it, and you know what I'm gonna do? Gonna go buy myself a package of MSG cooking issues.
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+[0:03] Broadcasting live from Robert is in Bushwood, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live every Tuesday from around 12 to 1245 from the back of Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn, on the Heritage Radio Network. Hey Jack, our uh our engineer Jack in the booth as always.
+
+[0:40] My headphones appear to be not working. Ah. Thank you. Joined as usual in the station with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, Cooking Issues Hammer and uh usual uh resident meaning. What?
+
+[0:55] The collar our collar called back. Hello, caller. You are on the air. Hi, Dave. Just a quick question about pecans specifically.
+
+[1:03] Um since it's a time of year where you can get uh whole unshelled pecans, I like to get a bunch of you know pecans and other bulk nuts and cracking myself. And bulk nuts. It's either the pecan itself or that reddish stuff. Inside like the pith, sort of right. Something just it's bitter and mouth dry and and just kind of not acidic, but it's really dries out my mouth.
+
+[1:29] What's up with that? Alright, so the skin of nuts like that, and pecans is one, the one I think that's been more studied uh is uh walnuts. The skin, the kind of the silvery this the uh reddish, brownish skin around it, has a lot of uh tannins in it that are gonna dry out your uh mouth and can be bitter. Uh and the same it goes true for a lot of nuts, which is why, for instance, uh when you use hazelnuts, you often uh heat them briefly and then rub the skins off. So you could I mean pecans are kind of a pain.
+
+[1:59] I don't really see a lot of recipes where you're supposed to uh take the skin off of a pecan. Um have you ever seen that in a recipe? I've never seen that in a recipe. No. No.
+
+[2:10] Uh me neither. But the strange thing about uh this phenomenon is that, and I know more about walnuts with this, is that different cultivars of uh walnut will have radically different uh astringency uh and bitterness associated with that skin layer. So every you know it all depends on exactly who you're getting it from, um uh, etc. etc. You could try uh to a hot roast and rub between towels.
+
+[2:37] Any percentage of that skin that you get off of there is going to um decrease that perception. The downside is is that it's not gonna look like a pecan anymore for for you know for what people are are used to doing. If you notice this specifically in a in a person that you're buying bulk from? No, I just usually get um, you know, diamond, diamond or whoever, just in a bulk bag. And when I do the pecans, uh I really notice the bitterness.
+
+[3:05] I don't really notice it so much for the other nuts, oddly enough. Yeah, do you uh not even for walnuts, huh? No well, I mean a little, but pecans like sometimes they just really zing me or whatever. Well, you know, uh a lot like so uh, you know, we used to make a lot, and hopefully we will again, uh pecan oil and pecan butter in uh in the centrifuge, and the bottom layer of that has all of that stuff that you're talking about. The uh uh, you know, because uh this the skin layer settles to the bottom when you're centrifuging it.
+
+[3:37] Uh and so you know that that's one way to to to get rid of it. Do you live in the south? Yeah. I mean, uh what I would do is uh search out a you know, a really like the I looked online once because we were looking into selling nut oils at school a couple years back, and I found a couple of very I can't remember their names, unfortunately, off the top of my head, but a couple of super high uh quality producers, uh, you know, that will give you fresh this year's crop right when they get it, uh, and just I'm sure loads higher than whatever the commercial stuff is. And strangely the prices weren't that bad.
+
+[4:13] You know what I mean? Very cool. Yeah, you might want to look into that, and then the the folks that I spoke to on the phone, uh, were you know, and this is the good thing about dealing with real people, is they actually grew the darn thing. So if you tell them your uh concerns, they can they they could probably steer you the right way. So does age affect it also?
+
+[4:32] Well, uh age, I I don't know about age and um astringency. I mean, obviously nuts as they age get rancid, uh and you know, they they tend to not be as good. I mean, um and that's why you know it's always best to vacuum pack uh you know in cans so you don't crush them too much, but it's always best uh best to vacuum pack um things that are high in oil content. So a lot of nuts when they're commercially uh produced are vacuum packed for that reason, or or nitrogen flushed or any one of a number of things you can do to remove the oxygen so that you don't have uh oxidation problems. So nuts are definitely unstable.
+
+[5:09] I mean, I'm sure you've had um you know, you've had some nuts sitting out for a while and you try to get the they turn stale, obviously, and then you try to uh get the crispness back by uh roasting them for a minute, letting them cool down, and the taste just isn't the same. Uh it's just they've either like gone stale permanently or gone rancid because they have such a high oil content, you know. Yeah very cool do you think this is anything like when you get a funky batch of pine nuts you know you get that pine nut mouth condition oh you know I haven't I haven't researched what that is I think that's probably something uh like very specific and I don't know that might be and I don't know anything about it so I I you know I I hesitate to speculate but uh for instance I'm told that it's a fungal uh problem like a bad pistachio and that those are actually extremely toxic because of high levels of aflatoxin uh that are uh pleasant and anyone that's ever bitten into a bad pistachio knows that it's like one of the most horrible things that could possibly happen to you. So definitely don't eat that. No don't eat that.
+
+[6:11] In fact uh we we used to make a pistachio uh oil and butter uh and what we we you know at the school we would get these uh three pound uh tins of nuts right from a reputable uh person and so uh one time I had an intern make a batch of pistachio butter with it and they just threw the tin into the uh into our grinder and then into our centrifuge and the stuff tasted awful uh then I then uh from then on I said hey look you have to throw all of the pistachios onto a sheet uh big sheet tray and you have to look at them all and we took out all the ones that had yellowed you know with age that weren't green anymore all the ones that look shriveled and the stuff tasted great so you know I know with pistachios they're extremely fragile uh you know and and most suppliers you know if you're buying uh bulk shelled nuts they don't they're not giving you the they're not giving you necessarily a hundred percent of the best, even if they're a reputable manufacturer. It only takes a couple bad nuts to really ruin things. Yeah. Anyway, good luck with that and let us know how it works out for you. Alright, thanks a lot, Dave.
+
+[7:16] Keep bringing the awesome. Thanks. Alrighty, so let me see. Uh I am I'm late as usual, and uh we are being held to our time today because there's a live show coming on the Heritage Radio Network. Uh and so I'm gonna read the promo after the first break.
+
+[7:32] I'm just gonna start going into questions. Okay, Andy writes in, hey Nastasha and Dave, I recently acquired a massive 21-pound free-ranged aged country ham from Nancy Newsome at uh her name's that Nancy Mahaffey actually. From Nancy uh Mahaffey at Colonel Newsome's ham. And uh there's a bunch of cursing about how delicious it is. Holy effing sugar honey iced tea delicious, which it is.
+
+[7:53] I actually happen to like that ham a lot. Had incredible marbling. Uh I want to figure out a way to get the best yield from the ham while eating it over a few months. Uh start into the less meaty side of the ham. Uh less meaty side would be the you know, the they call it the forward top side, I think.
+
+[8:06] Uh serrano style, i.e., uh long the length. But I'm thinking about boning it out and bonding it back together, prosciutto style, and then slicing it across the face of the ham. I practice deboning on a smaller home cured ham, so I think I've got good butchering method, but how does the home cook press and bind it back together? I assume some form of meat glue. Any recommendations for uh which style to use, uh, etc.
+
+[8:26] etc. The bone will leave a big hole. How do I ensure that I can uh press the uh the hole completely shut? Uh as a side note, um this ham is much thicker than either the serrano or the prosciutto, but I can't think of a way that would affect the preparation. Uh first of all, a couple notes.
+
+[8:40] Uh for those of you that don't have uh don't eat American country hams. Uh Colonel Newsom's hams out of uh Kentucky is one of the my favorite producers. They've been producing for a long, long time. Their recipe is several hundred years old. Uh Nancy Mahaffey is the current proprietor and cure master of that place.
+
+[8:56] Uh they have a distinction that they uh only cure one time a year at the traditional time in the winter, uh, and and then the hams are aged however old they are. She sometimes has hams that are over a year old, but in general, you can judge the age of the ham based on how long after the winter it is right now. So the hams that she has left over now are a year old. If you can get them, they're good. Uh another thing is that she has been working with uh Heritage Foods, our parent peoples, uh, to get some high very high quality um uh ham in that has a lot of marbling.
+
+[9:27] So she's been doing that. I think Benton's has been doing that, Benton's hams and uh Edwards hams. And I've had I haven't had Nan I've had a little bit of Nancy's, it was good. I had a lot of uh Edwards one, which was uh excellent. Uh and they're all good because I've said for many years that uh American ham masters, we you know they have the ability to cure, they have the know-how, they're they're you know, they're they're masters at it.
+
+[9:47] Uh but what what has been lacking is the quality of the raw material. And so these people have been joining up with uh folks like Patrick Martins and trying to kind of rectify that and be able to produce a ham that has uh the same kind of quality uh in the meat as the highest end uh European style hams. And and I have to say they are uh they are some incredibly uh delicious things. Um where you say as a side note that that this ham is much thicker than either the serrano or the prosciutto, it really does affect the preparation, has a lot to do with the way American hams are hung. American hams typically were designed, uh even the you know the country cured ones to be uh eaten in slices and then uh briefly cooked or cooked and then sliced.
+
+[10:26] Uh and so they want them to be a little wetter than you would on your average European ham. They're hung uh in the opposite direction from a normal uh European ham, and they're not squished flat. And so they have the cushion, that big part of the meat, the cushion area, is uh a lot thicker than it would be in um in a European ham. And what that means is is that you're gonna have uh a wetter center typically on that, and so it's gonna be more difficult to get a perfect slice out of an American-style ham that way than it would be to get out of a European ham. And you're also, because of the way American hams are hung uh and and aged, you're gonna get more of a variation in salt level and uh density uh and water uh level between the outside of the meat, especially towards the uh face, towards where it was cut off of the animal where there's no skin, and the center of the cushion where it's gonna be the softest.
+
+[11:14] So it does affect preparation. Um it's not better, it's not worse, but it it does affect it. Now, on to your real uh question here, which is uh how do I uh well, you already have a boning technique. The best way is to go uh F Dick Cutlery makes a uh what looks like a long gouge that you can use, uh like a tunnel boning thing that you can get in, and that's what uh a lot of the people use uh to get the bones out uh effectively. I have to say that boning a prosciutto and a country ham is the only time in my life I've ever broken a knife, at least that I've ever broken it when it wasn't breaking it on purpose.
+
+[11:46] So it, you know, they are difficult to bone depending on how uh old they are, right? Younger one, like seven, eight month-old, not gonna be a problem, but year uh year and a half, it can become uh uh kind of a nightmare to bone out and keep in one piece. Assuming you have a good technique to bone out the take the bone out, you're gonna have a hole in the center. And even the professionals here, when they bone it, are not going to uh take be able to squish that hole flat. And the reason is uh it takes an immense amount of pressure uh to do that.
+
+[12:13] So in uh prosciutto de Parma, what they'll do is they'll they'll age it bone in, like like God wants you to. They'll remove the bone and then they'll put it into a ham mold. And the ham mold has uh uh a water cooling because otherwise the ham would heat up too much and it would affect the uh flavor of the ham. And they put it under immense pressure inside of a metal mold that's you know very well cooled in order to compress it into that ham shape, exclude any oxygen or anything else from the inside of that uh gap. Uh, I don't think you're gonna be able to do that.
+
+[12:47] Uh I just don't think it's possible. Another problem with with enclosing that hole is you could be sealing uh something and you might want to let it dry out a little more in there, especially on an American ham that can be a little wetter on the inside uh than uh European ham. You're also gonna want to make sure you cut off any kind of bad areas or taint around that. Now, if you wanted to try, I mean I mean I encourage you to try and tell me what happens. Yes, you could sprinkle some meat glue in that thing, put it uh between uh two plates on a hydraulic press and uh and press it flat.
+
+[13:17] I don't know what kind of results you're gonna have. It's not typically something you you would do. And I just might make this suggestion is that because American hams weren't necessarily cured in order to slice in one whole piece, I would remove the section below the bone, and then you just have the section above the bone that you can slice as its own. It's gonna have a little like kind of semicircle mark in it, but that's okay. And then the bottom piece, which is a lot tougher anyway, uh, is going to uh you know, maybe be served as a separate uh separate preparation.
+
+[13:45] Anyway, my thoughts. What do you think, Stas? Uh that sounds good. Do you want to take a break? It's 24.
+
+[13:51] I don't know. Do I want to take a break? You just want to go all the way through? I'll take one more and then I'll do a break. Uh okay.
+
+[13:57] Uh I don't I don't I don't have the person's name, it's unfortunate, but it's another faithful faithful listener from iTunes uh and also a big fan of Heritage Radio in general. Big shout out to Heritage Radio. Uh I have three brining questions. Is there a rule of uh thumb for the brine to uh brine strength to soak time? I'm looking for a general brine I can customize to accommodate the amount of time I have to brine.
+
+[14:14] Some days I can do an overnight, some days I want to do an hour soak. Does the addition of herbs or other flavors in a brine come through in the end product? I see many recipes for complex brines with multiple flavor additions. Is this just showing off? And is there a brine concentration that could reduce the risk of salmonella or other bugs?
+
+[14:31] I refrigerate and cook properly, but I'm curious. Thanks. Okay. Uh I am embarrassed to say this is a subject that uh I should have researched long, long ago, uh, but uh have not. Here's the issue with uh brine strength and soak time.
+
+[14:47] There's a couple things that a brine is doing. Salt, specific take salt first. Salt is flavoring uh your meat, right? That's one thing it's doing, and also uh salt soaking through into the meat is altering the protein structure so that it can uh hold on to more water when it's cooked and thereby provide more uh more insurance against overcooking. Now, I've definitely uh overbrine things, but I you know I I haven't done the research.
+
+[15:11] And what I'm saying is is that I'm going to have to do more research before I can thoroughly answer this question. It's one of the few things that even though I've been doing it a lot, and I'm supposed to be a technical related cook who pays attention to this sort of nonsense. Uh I have literally always done this by uh making a brine, dipping my finger in it, and tasting it. And uh I always make my brines pretty much the same, which is uh make them until they're salty as the ocean and for chicken or poultry, I then add sugar until I can just barely taste the sweetness and then go. I don't find that other flavors uh do too much to it uh except for they flavor the outside quite effectively.
+
+[15:47] In vacuum bag situations, you can get some permeation in, but uh not a lot. But um I promise Nastasha's writing this down now uh for me to do uh some research. Maybe I'll go look in the modernist cuisine and see what they have to say about it and uh get back to you on that next week. Right, Nastashi, making a note? Sure.
+
+[15:59] She's pretend typing. By the way, folks, that's Nastasha's pretend typing, right? So uh I'll tell you when she's actually doing what I'm asking so that I can properly answer you sometime, but uh that wasn't it. Okay. So with that, uh let me go to our first commercial break.
+
+[16:18] Call your questions to 718 uh 4972128. 7184972128. I've been holding out alone. I've been sleeping all alone. I've been holding on the phone.
+
+[16:46] I've been sleeping all alone. I won't miss you. Welcome back to Cooking Issues. By the way, Jack, uh, I don't know if we're gonna get to it, but you had a shout-out for uh good uh good interim music. You like that?
+
+[17:15] Anyway, we'll get to it in a minute. Okay. Hello, Nastasha. My name is Jamie, and my research on rotovaps, that's rotary evaporators for all of you not hip to the fact, have led me time and time again to the cooking issues blog, which I have not updated in a long time, and I apologize more on that later. I am looking into using a rotovap for distilling produce from our 72-acre farm.
+
+[17:35] I had a few questions that I was wondering if Dave may answer. Currently, we're looking into buying a larger roto vap for a line of spirits we intended to still in the near future. Depending on yield, we were looking into producing everything from start to finish without rectifying any existing base spirits, i.e., buying neutral spirits uh made off site and infusing them with uh stuff and then redistilling them on the roto vap. I understand uh the equipment will distill alcohol out of a solvent while maintaining the flavors to the truest form, which is true, that's the case. I just want to know how much can we rely on the roto vap to get a low wine mash?
+
+[18:05] A low wine is a low alcohol uh product or the first distillation run off of a normal thing uh to an 80-proof finished liquor. I'm assuming uh so 80 proof 40% finished liquor. Uh has Dave uh ever heard of distilling one's own base spirit through the roto vap. I've read that Dave personally buys low-end vodka, sometimes high end, uh, to pay the taxes uh and not run into any legal issues. With that aside, could it be done from the mass straight to the roto vap, um running it through again and again?
+
+[18:33] Uh thanks, Jamie Oakes from Jamie at Tamworth Garden.com. Tamworth Garden, I'd love a garden full of Tamworth pigs, wouldn't you? Good. Uh okay. So uh here here's the deal.
+
+[18:44] First of all, um, even though I do buy uh pre made spirits and redistill them uh and therefore pay the taxes on it, it is still illegal. So it's still not legal for me to do it. Uh you know, uh the reason it's uh illegal is because of tax bases, uh ta tax purposes, right? That's the reason that uh distillation is illegal. And uh our legal system hasn't figured out a way in most areas to kind of get around that, although things hopefully are changing soon and have been changing in certain places.
+
+[19:12] That said, the laws specifically are written to prevent someone with a 72 acre farm from taking all of their produce on site, converting it into liquor and selling it without paying taxes. So if you're gonna be doing it, um either just don't, you know, tell anyone that you're doing it uh or get uh permit to do it. Because other otherwise, like that's exactly the kind of thing that uh that those those guys are are looking at. Now I have done uh you know distillation uh with uh wine before. I've never distilled anything below about uh the with whose starting alcohol content was uh below about 12%.
+
+[19:52] So the the lowest alcohol content thing that I've really ever I mean other than water, right? Other than just water-based stuff, um, is about 12%. And I was uh easily able to get uh brandies well above uh 40 uh percent on one pass period. Bang. And it's because um uh the way the rota vap works, uh, you know, when everything's under uh vacuum, you can get um I you know it's been a long time since I've researched the curves, but you can get uh it there's a certain uh inherent like theoretical reflux rate on the inside, so it doesn't work the same way as with normal distillation with plates, and plus the vacuum shifts everything around in terms of what boils off first, etc.
+
+[20:33] etc. But uh I have taken well let's take port, which I do all the time, like 18 to 20, put that in, and I'll get uh I'll get a 100-proof brandy off, no sweat. No sweat. So um 100 proof, sorry. Uh yeah, 100 proof.
+
+[20:50] So uh so yes, that's definitely feasible. Your speeds are gonna be quite low because unlike a normal still, you're gonna need to provide uh if you want to keep the temperatures extremely low to not affect the flavors of your fruits, you're going to have to use uh a cooling power other than tap water. If you're using a cooling power other than tap water, you are going to have to um you're gonna have to chill it, and that's going to be really expensive to chill all that stuff down. Alternatively, you can keep your temperatures somewhat higher, right? And then when your temperatures are higher, then you can use regular tap water or you know, lime water, whatever process, you know, processed water, stream water, whatever you have, to chill your roto vap down uh and keep your margins uh high enough on your uh uh the temperature between the the water bath and the uh and the cooling water uh large enough to be able to do a good job.
+
+[21:40] But you have to test to see whether or not the stuff is gonna uh taste the way you want it. Before you invest in a 20 and 30 30 liter rotary evaporator, I highly, highly recommend you uh invest in a small rotary evaporator because the process scales up quite well from a small rotoVap to a big rotoVap. So, you know, invest a couple of grand in a small rotoVap or go find someone that has one that you can use so you can see whether you like the procedure before you invest in something as big as a large rotary evaporator, right? Because there's a lot of uh it takes a while to get to learn it. Another problem about doing uh base wines, like you're saying, is that most rotary evaporators don't have a way to separate heads from tails, and you're gonna have a uh big big problem on this.
+
+[22:26] So, what you're gonna have to do, I mean, I designed a pump for my rotary evaporator that allows me to taste the distillate as it works, as it pr as it's produced. So I can do easy cuts between heads and tails when I'm doing a distillation, right? It makes my life a lot easier, but it's not something that's standardly available. If you need to do that, what you're gonna need to do is over the course of your distillation run on the first pilot run, you're gonna have to figure out for X number of uh mil you know milliliters or liters of stuff that I put into the uh distillation flask, I gotta throw away the first X amount. And you're gonna do that by opening your system every, you know, every you know, chunk of time and tasting it to see whether you've gotten rid of the heads, and then uh at the same time you're gonna have to start tasting to see when the tails come in.
+
+[23:09] And then hopefully that recipe scales from small to large. In my experience, it has scaled percentage-wise. Uh as long as your temperatures are the same, your uh, you know, your the the product that you're putting in is the same, and the vacuum levels that you use are the same. But these are all things that are gonna have to be tweaked out. Uh so I wish you the best of luck.
+
+[23:26] And if you have any more questions, please write them in because everybody knows I love a rotovap. Uh did I read the promo yet? No. Today's show is sponsored by Modernist Pantry, supplying innovative ingredients for the modern cook. Do you love to experiment with new cooking techniques and ingredients, but hate to overspend for pounds of supplies when only a few grams are needed per application?
+
+[23:44] Modernist Pantry has a solution. They offer a wide range of modern ingredients and packages that make sense for the home cooking enthusiast. And most cost only around five bucks, saving you time, money, and storage space. Whether you're looking for hydrocolloids, pH buffers, or even meat glue, you'll find it at Modernist Pantry. And if you need something that they don't carry, just ask.
+
+[24:02] Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you with inexpensive shipping to any country in the world. Modernist Pantry is your one-stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients. Fans of cooking issues that place an order of fifty dollars or more, fifty, it's gone up, huh? Yeah. Huh.
+
+[24:15] Uh, fans of cooking issues that place an order of fifty dollars or more before next week's show, we'll get a free home size package of any ingredient of your choice. That's pretty cool. Any ingredient. Nice. Simply use the promo code CI65 when placing your order online at ModernistPantry.com and indicate in the comment box what ingredient you would like.
+
+[24:34] Visit modernist pantry.com today for all of your modernist pantry cooking needs. Fifty bucks though, huh? I guess in exchange they get to get any anyone that they want. Yeah. Okay.
+
+[24:44] Uh all right. By the way, Nastasha, have you ever heard of Wolfman Jack? Yeah. Oh, good. I was gonna I was thinking on the way over, like, you know, like uh radio people I used to listen to when I was a kid, and whether you'd heard of them.
+
+[24:59] If you hadn't heard of them, I was gonna be incredibly depressed, like you're a three-year-old and I'm nine million years old. You know, uh uh, I'm gonna go to questions because otherwise I'm gonna run out of time. I was gonna tell a story about uh about my cherry allergy and my hoping that by getting my tonsils out I could fix it and how all my hopes were dashed and I'm incredibly depressed about it. Anyway, uh Jason Molinari writes in uh uh two questions. Recently, some new studies have shown that many or most plastic leak leech estrogenic chemicals which have been shown to be harmful to fetal and young mammals messing with development.
+
+[25:31] This is of particular concern to me given that I have a 2.5-year-old girl, uh I should probably say two and a half. Yeah, two and a half year old girl, and we often eat souvited food. I understand the uh research seems to be incomplete, but you may have access to other articles or studies which I do not. Should I be freaking out, or is this another item blown out of proportion? Uh and then uh there's a link to the relevant study, and uh you'll have to uh you'll have to excuse me for one minute while I call up said relevant study.
+
+[25:59] Uh but the relevant study is uh Oh no, please tell me it didn't close it. Okay. That's a good word to start with anything, right? If you're writing if you're writing anything, a book, magazine article, anything, start it with the word estrogenic. Most plastic products released estrogenic chemicals, a potential health problem that can be solved.
+
+[26:20] Uh, and this is uh fairly recent article, I think, from July of 2011. And uh look, this article was new to me. I read it this morning, and I read uh some other uh articles uh uh on this subject. But the point is basically that there's a whole class of chemicals called endocrine disruptors that mess with your hormones and can do things like cause uh early puberty in girls or can uh have kind of delayed sexual development in in boys. It just messes you up all around, kind of.
+
+[26:51] Uh and so as a result of this, many people have stayed away from, for instance, baby bottles containing the ingredient what's that? Anyway, containing the ingredient uh BPA uh bisphenol A. Um so this is something that's been uh kind of bubbling under the surface. People have been worried about certain plastics, but uh the theory has been that the plastics that don't contain uh known endocrine disruptors are okay. So what this study did was uh they took a whole boatload of different plastics and uh and basically they sent the researchers over the course of four years out to various supermarkets and food chains, purchased both empty and full plastic containers, uh, and then subjected them to a bunch of tests to try to see whether they could leach crap out of these things, including microwave heating, including uh soaking it in alcohol, including soaking it in salt, uh things like that, different various heating regimes.
+
+[27:49] And uh unfortunately, and then what they would do is they take the whatever they uh did, you know, whatever whatever the liquid was they used to leach, and they would apply it to see whether or not it bound uh to have an assay to see they have an assay for uh endocrine you know for estrogen um uh you know estrogen uh estrogenic products. And they said, Is there a reaction on this assay that we can see that it there are uh um active components in here that could be endocrine disruptors? Okay. Uh the bad news, I'll give you the bad news. The bad news is according to this study, uh many things that you would think are safe, including baby bottles that are labeled BPA free, in fact can leach crap out.
+
+[28:26] And even plastics that are free of plasticizers, for instance, polyethylene, can have additives added to the plastics that um make them release some form of uh endo, you know, like estrogenically active uh compound into foods under certain conditions. So that's the bad news. Uh this is very uh new research, so I really don't know what to make of it. I looked up uh some of the other relevant uh articles on it and uh you know there's there's just not really uh enough known part of the problem is is that the there's no kind of known no known minimum level at which kind of uh where this stuff is okay and you know and the research is still being done. The good news was I couldn't look over the charts thoroughly and like really digest them, but it looks like things like plastic wrap had fairly low levels compared to other things um of having um uh things leaching out of them.
+
+[29:23] PETG bottles that were uh free of BPA tended to leach uh stuff um because the actual monomer itself is uh is uh it has some activity, some endocrine disruption activity, and if it's not fully if it degrades over time, that can that can leach out uh apparently according to the article. Uh and so I I don't know, I just don't know. Uh it's kind of uh it's an interesting subject, and I hope to look uh into it um more. Um I was a little upset to find that things that I knew were free of these sorts of uh um uh endocrine disruptors in terms of what the actual makeup of the plastics were when tested uh had some activity in them. I that I don't know that this stuff's been retested.
+
+[30:07] I gotta look into it. Anyway. Two, and on a lighter note, can you give me any ideas for some pan sauces that might go with low temperature fish, meat, and poultry? Since it's not cooked in a pan except for a super quick sear, there usually isn't any deglazable fond in the pan. And let's face it, a low temperature fillet of cod can be pretty boring, even if flavorings are used in the bag.
+
+[30:24] Okay, a couple things you do. One, uh take the bones or whatever else and make a stock. If you're doing chicken or doing fish, uh, you know, well, fish you're not gonna brown it, but you know, chicken, you can bump brown out the bones, make a stock, reduce it, and make a sauce that way. In fish, typically what cooks are gonna do is they're gonna add something that's very high in umami to uh a finished sauce. That's why a lot of times when these fish came out, you'd see a lot of things with miso sauces, with soy-based sauces, sauces that had a lot of those brown notes and those kind of uh brown characteristics that you would want that you don't get in those high uh high temperature things.
+
+[30:59] But it's true that uh a plain low temperature fillet of cod can be pretty boring, unless it's so low temperature that you haven't killed the worms and the worms are still moving around on the inside of a cod. Nastasha, did you know that cod has all sorts of worms in it? Are you ever gonna eat cod again? You know, whenever students, the first time they butcher cod at the at the school or wherever, the first time you butcher cod and you see the little worms coming out of it, you're like, oh my gosh, but you know what? You've been eating cod your whole life.
+
+[31:24] We cooked the worms out. Anyways. Speaking of cook the worms out, that reminds me of uh bleach the rabies out, which is uh uh Kent Kirstenbaum, our friend uh at uh uh NYU, Professor at NYU. His favorite thing that I ever said was bleach the rabies out when I have a new centrifuge. And he was just on Sid the Science Kid.
+
+[31:43] I don't know what that is. Uh well it's well if you have next time you have a little kid, Sid the Science Kid is like you know, a show on the TV that little kids watch. Anyway, cool that Kent's on Sid the Science Kid. Okay. Uh I hope that was a good answer.
+
+[31:56] Is that a good answer? Yeah. Yeah. From uh Jason Mulinari. Okay.
+
+[32:00] Um we have a question in from Matt. How do you think you pronounce that? Hasa? Has? Haas.
+
+[32:07] Okay. Uh love the show. Use iTunes to listen. In regards to braising jus color, this is by the way, a response where we said, Does anyone else have a good way to get the uh sauce color? Remember?
+
+[32:18] Mm-hmm. Yeah. So this is this is a response uh from Matt. He also has a response for uh good plating ideas, I think. Uh okay, and then a question.
+
+[32:26] Okay. So uh in regards to brazing uh color, uh brazing sauce color. I learned a technique from uh Paul Bartellato, who learned it from uh Joy Robouchon uh on refreshing sauces. The technique is good not only for color but flavor as well. But for every service, bring the sauce to a boil uh and in a separate pot for a red wine sauce, reduce a half bottle of wine along with aromatics and roasted shanks of meat scraps or shank or scraps of meat.
+
+[32:49] I'm I don't know, what shanks of meat scraps. When the wine is very close to being reduced, crank both pots and slowly incorporate the base into the uh into the reduction. Do this two ounces at a time, and when you're done, the sauce will be very ruby and have all the flavors reinforced. The color will last for around five hours. We did this every service with all of our sauces.
+
+[33:06] Good tip. Good tip. On the topic of fancy presentation for the home cooking. This is a really good tip, by the way. Uh I hadn't thought of it because we're stupid.
+
+[33:13] That's why. Uh uh, YouTube, some baller chef demos to see how they plate. Uh FrenchChef.tv has some demos as well, uh, as well as the Alinea/slash next videos. That's a really good idea. So stupid.
+
+[33:26] Everyone on YouTube now has like famous people doing plating work. Why am I such an idiot? And why didn't you suggest that to me? God, we're useless. Anyway, thanks, Matt.
+
+[33:37] Those are two excellent, a good tip and a really good idea. Anyway, finally, I have a question. Is there a specific formula for savory ice creams and sorbet? I have formulas for sweet versions where the solid sugars and liquids are balanced. Adapted from Sebastian Canon, who's from the French pastry school or competitor in uh in what's it called?
+
+[33:54] Chicago. Uh also seen on Michael Lisconis' blog. Ran into Michael Scottis the other day at Sambar, by the way. Oh yeah? Yeah.
+
+[34:01] It was? Yeah. Well, and he told me it's his birthday. What I said, happy birthday. He's like, oh, I saw Michael Scott's there.
+
+[34:06] It's his birthday. You know going into the see uh what's going on, you're gonna say hello you're not gonna say happy birthday. Nice. So I didn't say happy birthday to the guy. Yeah.
+
+[34:12] Him and his wife Heathers, the uh GM at uh Aldea, George Mendes' restaurant. Anyways, now I feel like a jackass for not saying uh happy birthday. But uh I was commenting his last you know, it's pastry chef Armageddon right now. Uh Johnny Azini from Jean Georges is leaving JG and Michael Asconis is leaving uh La Bernadette. And I was like, when's your last day?
+
+[34:33] He's like, he's like December 30th. I'm like, what are you assissing? You can't go all the way to the 31st to finish all years. He's like, Le Bernard Dan's closed on New Year's. I was like, oh.
+
+[34:41] Oh. Anyway, uh, good guy, Michael Scott. Okay. Uh all the sorbets and ice cream using this formulation are great. The only thing I've changed is maybe adding um non-fat uh milk protein, aka dry milk, to certain sorbetes, although that's gonna make them more milky, which is gonna make them more like uh like a sherbet, right?
+
+[34:59] Anyway. Uh, do most people substitute isomalt for sucrose or just make a yummy base and hit it with uh liquid nitrogen? Okay. Uh you can't just hit a base with liquid nitrogen and uh get a uh really good uh result. You can get a sore because the sugar is there as a texturizing agent, right?
+
+[35:18] You need that sugar there to get uh a proper texture. Otherwise, even with liquid nitrogen, it's gonna be hard, it's not gonna feel right in the mouth. I wouldn't substitute uh I mean isom you can substitute isomalt. Uh some people claim that it gives you the runs if you eat too much, but that's never happened to me. And I've eaten a bunch once just to the reason is you just don't digest it as much.
+
+[35:37] That's why they say that. Uh I would move to uh but isomalt, I'm gonna have to remember I'm making this up. Uh it's something like 50, 30 to 50% as sweet as sucrose, so it is substantially less sweet, but uh glucose syrup is even less sweet than um than isomalt. Uh and I don't know whether it gives you the poops or not. I don't think it gives you the poops, the glucose syrup.
+
+[36:00] So I would go with glucose syrup, which is what you can use, or very low DE corn, you know, corn base or syrup, you know, everyone says corn syrup's, you know. Look, it's it first of all, if high fructose corn corn syrup is what's causing uh the entire world to fall apart, you know, whether it is or whether it isn't. Not all corn syrups are high fructose corn syrup, let's just say that right now. Anyway, so a low DE, in other words, non sweet corn syrup would be the way I would go as opposed to using um isomalt. Uh although I have used isomalt uh as well, and it works.
+
+[36:31] You just need something that has the water binding properties of uh although my isomalt now. Anyway, of uh and the texturizing properties of sugar, otherwise the texture's not gonna be right. Uh anyway, uh I'll try to find some recipes or or if you if you're having problems uh working out a formulation, just give us another holler and I'll uh call one of my buddies and figure out the exact numbers. Okay. Question in from uh Ellie.
+
+[36:55] It's this is a you know, we remember we had a problem pronouncing pronunciation guy now. Ellie, like Eddie but with an L. Okay. Uh I am now on my second immersion circulator unit from eBay in the last three years. I'm thinking I should have spent the money on a new one from Polyscience instead.
+
+[37:12] Yeah, you know what? I think I said this a million times. I used to I used to buy circulators constantly off of eBay and then spend all my time keeping them running. And the first time I got a new excuse me, a something wrong with my face. A new poly science, I was like, wow, this is what it's like to not be a D-bag.
+
+[37:28] Anyway, uh it was what? Right, right? No. Anyway, Nastasha's tapping her watch, meaning I have to hurry. Um, yeah, she probably should have.
+
+[37:35] Anyway, the one that uh the one that's now the one I have now is a very nice looking digital lauda with barely any cosmetic damage, and it holds the temperature perfectly. For all intents and purposes, it looks barely used. I've had it for maybe two months now, and it used to work almost silently, uh, just humming along. Now it seems to be developing a slight grading noise. Nothing very noisy or terribly annoying, but I remember you mentioning that some immersion circulators develop that noise after long-term use.
+
+[37:59] The problem is I do not remember if you said it was something that could be fixed with some WD-40, or is a problem that will get worse and worse until the machine is unusable in a month or two. Any help is much appreciated. Okay. First of all, I don't know which louda you have. I used to buy Lauda's all the time.
+
+[38:11] They looked awesome and they looked barely used, and they all died. They all died on me. Um what died on them was the triac. And the ones that I'd use, uh, most of them. I had somewhere the motor went, uh, where the inside the triac would burn out so it wasn't wouldn't heat anymore, it would still run.
+
+[38:27] The kind of noise you're getting depends. You have to make a decision. Uh uh and uh the new loud is probably that doesn't happen to, uh, or newer. Um you have to figure out whether it's a bearing noise, which it sounds like like it's a bearing noise, hard to describe. Or whether it sounds like the shaft is rubbing on something.
+
+[38:43] If the shaft is rubbing on something try to bend the bottom a little bit so that the shaft no longer touches any metal parts and that should stop it and then you're good to go for a long time. If it's the bearing making the noise then you're kind of in a world of hurt eventually. I have kept them running for months and months and months by spraying with WD forty but remember WD40 ain't food grade. So you don't want to do it uh too much and it's very easy to test. Hit the bearing with a little WD 40 and if the squeaking and scraping goes away then it's your bearing.
+
+[39:12] If not then the shaft is touching on something. Hold on what jack tones? Take the collar oh we have a caller? Caller, you are on the air. Hey Dave and Nastasha this is uh Sarah Beth Stad.
+
+[39:22] Hey how are you doing nice good we answer did we answer the question or no? Did it work? Uh you did you sure did we ended up uh so we ended up putting the meat in a uh boiling water. So now we joke we're gonna go uh boil up some steaks for some friends. So yeah yeah so um we got three different cuts of steak from the same eye.
+
+[39:46] Uh so it was pretty con hopefully the marbling would stay consistent. And then we put it in a double boiler. So that way the meat didn't hit the bottom of the pan. Right. And then got got a uh got a probe uh just one of the instant read thermometers that only registered at the tip and then we put that horizontally into the meat and um numbers were almost dead on with the with the four times and we haven't we haven't attempted the uh the equations yet but uh we downloaded the app and all that stuff, so we're playing around with that right now.
+
+[40:17] And and your your numbers, your numbers uh jibed with the application's numbers roughly or no, no, with that with that um roughly four times, you know, the the the inch was just about uh roughly you know equal to you know, when you add in the the inch to the inch and a half to the two inches, it was like a pretty straight straight line with the times. Really? Um yeah, yeah. Wow, it shouldn't it shouldn't be straight though, it shouldn't be linear. Yeah, well that's what it that's what it graphed out as.
+
+[40:47] That's why we're gonna we're gonna break out that app and play with that a little bit and see, you know, because it cause it um you know that's what it showed, but like you were saying, it shouldn't be linear. No, it should not be linear. No. Every every double every doubling of thickness should be a factor of four. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[41:03] So that's why we're gonna break out the thing and see if you know maybe something was wrong in our experiment or or just run the math on it and double check it. Uh that's that's an expensive cut to boil, huh? Oh, you're telling me. If you're not gonna eat it, get like eye of round or something like that, 'cause it's got very low uh fat content in it and it's a lot cheaper. Tastes bad when when it's cooked long time because it goes livery and it doesn't have any fat, so it's not my favorite cut to eat, but uh if you're gonna be boiling it, I mean d how did it taste after you boiled it?
+
+[41:36] Uh well, yeah, I could have used it for my shoes. It was pretty pretty tough. Pretty tough. You know, but what I did just for grins, I put it in a hot pan and I you know, we we seared it with some olive oil and garlic and all that, try to dress it up a little bit. But yeah, once you boil it, once you boil it, suckers boiled.
+
+[41:53] Uh one last question. How um what was the uh like uh okay, let's say thickness is the Z dimension, how large was the X and Y? Oh, as far as uh the size of it, yeah. Um they were fairly consistent, so the if we we we took the steak and we cut it in half, so it was like two two pieces for each size. And they were about four inches by four inches.
+
+[42:20] Okay, so it was a it was circumference, but it was like a slab. Right, but a a lot bigger, a lot bigger uh X and Y than Z. Yes. Okay, good. Yeah.
+
+[42:31] Yeah. So approxim approximating a slab. Good, good, good. Exactly. Yeah.
+
+[42:36] Well, you know, uh I'm surprised it came out uh as a linear uh relationship. I'm gonna you're gonna have to like fill me in. You have to do do some tests with that app, see what it re tells you to happen. That's what we're gonna do. And the other problem was, you know, we only had like what, two pieces for each thickness, so we didn't have a lot of data points to graph either.
+
+[42:59] Right. So may I recommend in the future a cheaper cut? Yes. Duly noted. Yeah.
+
+[43:08] Yeah, but my daughter loves your podcast. We were we were listening to it on uh on the way to uh school this morning. Oh wow. So yeah, yeah. And and don't worry, I pre-screen most of them for the for the cursing.
+
+[43:20] So we try not well, you know, we really we try not to do it now, especially because you know we now uh label as a family show. You know, surprisingly in the real life, I'm the one you have to worry about, but on the air, Nastasha's the one you have to worry about, isn't that strange? Uh-huh. And me. I'm not saying any I'm not saying anything.
+
+[43:35] Anybody that's called the hammer, I'm I'm just gonna be quiet. All righty. Well uh well listen, thanks so much for calling. Do you have a uh a separate separate question or no? No, no, I was just calling to let you guys know that we we we heard it and we uh we did the thing.
+
+[43:49] So uh we'll play around with that app and uh let you know what happened. Cool. Thanks so much. Yeah. All right.
+
+[43:54] Alright, have a good one. All right. Uh one question we had uh that I'm gonna actually know I know I'm gonna postpone until the next one from Howard is with the holiday season winding up. I was wondering and the reason is going to become apparent. Uh I was uh wondering if you had any suggestions for kitchen gadget equipments uh and gifts with the holiday season.
+
+[44:11] If you could include some things from a variety of price ranges, that would be great. And I figured this would be a good thing for us to actually discuss on next week's show and to give anyone who's listening an opportunity to write in with what they think a good idea would be. What do you think? That's a good idea. Smart?
+
+[44:25] I mean, I have my ideas, which but you know, I can uh you know, I'm I could do more. Uh another thing, just a quick in uh Kevin writes in, says, Hope all is well. Just want to drop a quick line and let you know that carbonating vodka with a soda stream system works quite well. Uh and he's attached pictures. Uh and I I didn't get a chance to look at the pictures yet, but he's said I use the same tubing I use for an aquarium pump I have connected to my uh D uh do it yourself immersion circulator.
+
+[44:48] Um and he recommends using a soda stream to vent out trapped air before pressurizing for the first time to get the pressures high. This is a technique I've advocated for a while if you have a soda stream of putting an extender tube on the end of it so that you can actually carbonate with a smaller amount of liquor uh and actually have the tube sit below the level. Uh because if you don't do that, you're not gonna get good carbonation. If you if you if you fill it up high enough, your uh you're good. The problem is it's gonna overflow when it foams because vodka wants to foam a little bit after it carbonates.
+
+[45:14] But I will say this also, uh, Kevin. Keep tuned. We're gonna have uh and I'll talk more about it, but I have some new carbonation stuff coming out that's gonna uh it's gonna blow everyone's mind, right? Yeah. Gonna blow everyone's mind.
+
+[45:27] How much time do I have left? What? Yes. All right. So listen, I have some questions in.
+
+[45:32] For instance, uh, I have another question in uh from Ellie about alginate. I'm gonna get to that one next time. Uh Colin wrote in with some uh typical Collin kind of stuff, and we'll get to that uh next time. And Kangber wrote in actually after you got to speak to us. And by the way, I was giving us uh Jack, he's the one that says that he no longer fast forwards because he enjoys your choice of segue music so much.
+
+[45:54] That was an awesome email. Thanks, man. Yeah, yeah. So uh Jack says thank you. And uh I'm gonna get more to what you wrote about, other than that, next week because today we're out of time and this has been cooking issues.
+
+[46:16] Oh, you didn't when you've got Omaha Steaks convenient everyday protein waiting at home, that what's for dinner panic turns into your weeknight win. And now's the time to buy during the Omaha Steaks Spring Savings event. Save big on their exclusive lineup of mouthwatering steaks, gourmet burgers, air-chilled chicken, pork, seafood, and more. Go to OmahaStakes.com for an extra thirty-five dollars off when you use promo code AUDIO at checkout. That's OmahaStakes.com.
+
+[46:47] Promo code A-U-D-I-O. Terms apply, see site for details.
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+[0:03] Broadcasting live from Robertas in Bushwood, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live every Tuesday from about 12 to 1245 on the Heritage Radio Network. In the back of Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn.
+
+[0:37] Joined as usual in the studio with uh Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. How are you doing? I'm fine. And we got Jack and Carlos in the engineering booth. Hey fellas.
+
+[0:44] How's it going? Going well. Uh last week was the second kind of anniversary/slash holiday party of the Heritage Radio Network. Uh when good time was had by all, correct, Jack? Yeah, it was awesome.
+
+[0:54] Sorry for cursing in front of your kids. Uh well uh he's uh they're used to it. Yeah, well uh they are not, first of all. First of all, they're not, and second of all, uh we did the earmuff, so I did a very effective earmuff so much daddy, what are you doing? What are you doing?
+
+[1:09] Anyway, uh okay. Uh call in all of your questions to 718 497-2128. That's 718497-2128. Is that right? That's that's right.
+
+[1:19] Oh, nice. You got it. All right, so we have some questions to get to from by the way. This week is uh the last pre-Christmas show, correct, Nastasha? Yes.
+
+[1:29] So next week you have to ask all of your Christmas cooking related questions because that would be our last opportunity to answer them, yeah. We could do it next week, no? I'm doing a show next week. We'll have to ask the questions. Oh yeah.
+
+[1:44] Yeah, yeah. Oh, last uh night I was on the uh Anthony Bourdain uh the no reservation show, which I wasn't able to watch because I don't have cable. Nastasha was able to watch it and said that I didn't come off like an idiot, which means they must have heavily edited me. No, it was just good. It was compared to the rest of the show, you were the best part.
+
+[2:01] Wow, why don't you insult the rest of the show there? Uh who was on it? Uh how's Christopher Walken? He was on it, right? I only watched until 45.
+
+[2:10] So you missed the you missed the walking. I think I might have, yeah. You love Christopher Walken. Everybody loves Christopher Walken. How could you miss the walking?
+
+[2:17] Anyway. Maybe some ti I was tired. My 28 or 29-year-old body can't handle staying up till 11 anymore. Tired. Nice.
+
+[2:29] Okay. So, uh let's get to some of last week's questions while we're at it. Uh Ellie last week had two questions. I was only able to answer one of them. This one comes in on spherification, aka the tiny balls.
+
+[2:40] I use sodium alginate baths for spherifications once in a while. I do that based on a recipe from the Alinea book mostly. So typically uh mix the food to be spherified with calcium lactate. Uh this is a reverse spherification. Uh we'll go into that in a minute.
+
+[2:54] Uh this works great and I get no bad taste. Uh, but I always wonder why I can't use uh straight up calcium that I get from the grocery store instead of calcium lactate or calcium lactate gluconate. Uh I made yogurt spheres once and they worked great with no additional calcium, uh anything since the yogurt was already high uh without any additional calcium or anything because the yogurt was already high in calcium. Is plain calcium not soluble in a food liquid uh in its pure form, maybe what is the deal? All right, the deal is there's a couple of deals.
+
+[3:21] One, for those of you that don't know what we're talking about, sodium alginate is a seaweed uh derivative, a hydrocolloid, that uh as soon as you get a solution of it and it touches uh calcium, uh, it forms an irreversible gel. The downside is, there's two downsides. One is that uh there's three, it doesn't taste very good because it locks in flavor. Uh two, the texture is not particularly pleasant uh on its own. Uh and the third problem is is that if you were to take a flavor, let's say, and mix it with alginate and drop into calcium, it turns solid uh you know very quickly.
+
+[3:54] And once it's solid, it has basically no flavor to it at all. Uh so I mean, no good, no good flavor anyway. Uh so uh what Ellie's doing is called reverse verification, where you put the calcium into your flavor and you drop it into alginate and it just forms a thin membrane around the outside. Now, uh calcium is not extraordinarily soluble in water. Um foods that naturally have a lot of calcium in them can be used uh for uh reverse sperification.
+
+[4:22] So, for instance, uh olives uh typically already, I don't know whether they have natural calcium, but they usually add calcium uh to the uh uh brine that they're in to keep them crisp, uh, and that's enough to do reverse sperification. So uh calciums are basically in there's a uh a grade of bad taste to uh to solubility basically. So the most soluble form of calcium is the worst tasting, and that's calcium chloride. It tastes horrible. You would never use reverse serification for that.
+
+[4:51] Calcium lactate, uh slightly better. Calcium lactate gluconate, slightly better yet. I don't know what the form of calcium is that you can get in the supermarket grocery, but most forms of calcium, calcium carbonate is uh very insoluble, and you're not gonna get uh very good uh results. But fruit juices that are doped with calcium, I think are typically uh doped with uh calcium lactate gluconate, and so those would probably uh work. So the the other thing that you need to bear in mind is that the more available, the more calcium that's available in the system, uh the stronger the gel setting is.
+
+[5:25] So if you need a very strong gel, uh you need a very hard, fast form of calcium, and that's when you bust out the lactate or God forbid uh the chloride. If you want a softer gel, uh you can use a less available form of calcium or less calcium total. So I think you'll notice that the less calcium you have there, or the less available the calcium is to the alginate, the softer the gel will be. Uh and that has to do with the fact that um uh basically the strength of the gel uh is kind of dictated as it's forming. So it it just leaving it longer in a calcium bath will cause more gel to form, but won't make it a lot, lot stronger.
+
+[6:01] Anyway, what do you think, Stas? Yeah, good job. All right. Uh okay, now got some interesting question in on uh ducks. Ducks.
+
+[6:09] Yeah. Uh Jacob uh Cessna, you think you pronounce it Cessna? Not spelled like the airplane, the Cessna, uh the 172 being kind of the hallmark uh private aircraft, the Cessna 172. Anyway, but not spelled that way, spelled Cessna. Uh says, good morning, guys.
+
+[6:24] A longtime listener, a first-time writer. I have a crap ton of questions. By the way, Jacob, I changed your actual wording, which wasn't crap ton, but remember, this is now a family show, so we can't uh k can't curse anymore. Jack. Uh okay.
+
+[6:38] I have a crap ton of questions, but we will start with a few easy ones. I do a good amount of hunting uh and just hit a big on ducks the other weekend. I have breasts from a bunch of spoonies, that's a spoonbill duck, by the way, and have a few teal that I have plucked and vacuum sealed and are waiting for me in the fridge. I already ate some of the spoonies. I butterfly the breast soap and then rolled them in some house made guanchali um from Avedano's in San Francisco and quickly seared them in a hot cast iron skillet.
+
+[7:00] Guanchali, for those of you not in the know, is cured pig jowl. And it's one of the maybe the most delicious things you can put on a pizza. What do you think? Mm-hmm. It's some delicious stuff.
+
+[7:08] Nastash, I could have just said uh some any kind of crazy thing, and Nastasha would have just said, uh-huh. She's like, No, I actually don't like guanchali, but we don't know. You don't like guanchali? Oh my god! Oh Jesus.
+
+[7:14] Damn. Oh my god. Okay. Uh in San Francisco and quickly seared them in a hot cast iron skillet. My girlfriend and I had that with some duck liver mousse she made, and it was awesome.
+
+[7:30] The mousse was on bread and not on the duck breast, uh, which probably a good plan. Uh I recently returned from some training at Quantico. Ooh, Quantico, huh? Oh can training. Nice.
+
+[7:38] Marines, Quantico's Marines, right? Uh so I am uh getting caught up on your old shows, and I heard you talk about upland game and waterfowl. Any tips on cooking the few breasts I have left and the two teals. Okay. Uh now.
+
+[7:53] Uh here's the deal. So the the a regular duck breast, right, wants to cook anywhere between 57 Celsius, which is about 135, and 58 Celsius, depending on how tough the duck breast is. You don't want to over you don't want to cook uh one of these things too long. Even on a regular uh farm raised duck, uh, after a long cooking time, the breasts are gonna start losing their texture and they're gonna taste uh livery and gamey. My assumption is if you're doing uh wild duck that that's gonna happen a lot, lot faster.
+
+[8:24] But I would try the breasts sous vide at 57. I would try them for uh I would try one just to see what it's like. Uh at about 57 or 57 and a half for about an hour, cool it down and then sear it off and see kind of what result you get. If it's too tough, you could try going longer, uh like two hours, but you're starting gonna start probably getting a livery uh gamey taste in it. But I'm really curious as to what kind of uh results you get out of it.
+
+[8:50] Now, another thing to be uh aware of, and I'm sure you know this as a hunter, is that the taste of the animal is wildly dependent on what the duck has been eating. And this has been known uh for centuries. So I did some some research for you. Uh first I looked in my After the Hunt book, which is John Folse's book on uh hunting in uh in uh Louisiana, uh, and he had only one recipe for uh for spoonbill, but it was so like kind of doped up with stuff that I doubt you could taste what the spoon bill spoon bill uh actually tasted like. But he made an interesting point.
+
+[9:21] Canvasbacks are well known as one of the kind of best tasting ducks that you can get. But he says what they probably don't taste as good as they used to because they used to graze a lot on wild celery and uh basically all of that, all of that is gone. But that led me to more research. I was like, well, what do spoon bills, aka shovelers, uh shovel, you know, shovel-nosed ducks uh eat? Because what they do is is they stick their their big old uh you know, beak beak, what is it called?
+
+[9:44] The uh mount with the thing that ducks have. They stuck their big old bill into the mud and scoop crap up. So there was a study done in um 1922, uh notes on the food habitats of the shoveler or spoonbill duck uh by uh Will W. L. McCaddy.
+
+[10:01] And basically what's interesting about the spoonbill is that it not only eats a lot of uh vegetable matter, but a lot of uh animal matter out of the mud in the inside, especially kind of small crustaceans, and so my guess is that it's apt to have somewhat of a fishy taste. And so the thing is, is that can that be made a positive thing, or is that inherently uh a negative thing? Uh Edward T. Martin in 19 uh 18 in uh Hunter and uh Trader Trapper, the magazine, uh makes a note that uh you can remove the skin of these ducks, and a lot of the uh kind of fishy taste, because it's gonna be concentrated in the fat, is gonna be concentrated in the skin. And so if you're having a problem with fishy take taste in a in a spoon bill, uh perhaps you can remove the skin and get rid of that.
+
+[10:42] That would be horrible because the skin is obviously uh one of the reasons why God invented uh the duck. He also, if you re go in and read uh Edward uh T. Martin's uh piece on ducks in the 1918 edition of Hunter Tra uh Trader Trapper on Google. Uh, there's a very interesting discussion of rice birds, uh, Carolina rice birds, which are one of my uh fascinations because it's the bobble link, which is a still extant bird, uh, that used to gorge themselves on rice uh as they flew south uh through the Carolinas, and they were such a pest that uh people will go out and shoot them in droves, but they were incredibly delicious and could be eaten whole, similar to the French Ortalon. And um I'll just read you one quick passage.
+
+[11:20] I remember this is uh Edward T. Martin writing in 1918. I well remember how the Carolina rice fields were protected from the ravages of the rice birds by an army of plantation hands. They weren't slaves anymore, unfortunately. Well, I mean, fortunately, Drake Price.
+
+[11:33] Wow. Jesus, you know what I mean? What I mean is is fortunately they weren't sleeves slaves anymore, but they were still unfortunately held down in the plantation system. There's an excellent book called uh Black Rice, uh by uh what's her first name? Beth uh what's her name?
+
+[11:47] Something carny. Uh and it's an amazing book on the evolution of the uh rice plantation in South Carolina, specifically how the rice that was originally raised there was an African uh type of rice, glabarima rice, and the actual technology for uh raising that rice was introduced to the plantation owners by the first charter generation of slaves that were brought over to South Carolina, uh, and then how they got co-opted and ended up so they started out with kind of a better situation than many of the other slaves on the in the East Coast of and then got progressively worse because the conditions were so awful. After slavery was abolished, the rice plantations continued to exist, but the conditions were still horribly awful, and um the only reason that it went away was because it turned out that mechanization couldn't be applied to the Carolina rice fields. Anyway, crazy story. Okay.
+
+[12:35] Uh you guys know what I mean. Nastasha giving me the wow on that. I can't believe you're a bad person. You're a low-quality human being. Anyway, I well remember how the Carolina rice fields were protected from the ravages of the rice birds by an army of plantation hands armed with muskets and stationed along the levees.
+
+[12:48] The birds, so fat they could barely fly, were given no rest. It was one constant bombardment. I have uh been in some skirmishes where the firing was no heavier. I guess he was in the war. Uh very few of the birds were k uh, very few of the birds killed were picked up.
+
+[13:00] The object was to save the rice. But those that found their way to market were esteemed as a great delicacy for the table. They were far ahead of any other game I ever ate, not even accepting woodcock. Okay. Uh okay.
+
+[13:12] And then um, so that's kind of answered that question. Jacob writes on and says, uh something to think about, because when I get the funds, I'm gonna uh uh cooking CV. I'm going to be emailing you a lot of questions. I've been talking to the guys at 4505 Meets in San Francisco and the guys have fatty calf in Napa. I'm learning to make my own salumi, and because I like to hunt, I have decided to turn a small in-laws quarter in my backyard into a meat retreat.
+
+[13:33] I'm only 25 and don't have in-laws, and if I did, I wouldn't want them in my backyard like a bunch of vagrant vagrants. Jacob, let me tell you something. Once you have kids, if you should have the kids someday, uh, you're gonna want the in-laws to come over to take care of the kids, believe me. So you're gonna have to uh convert that back from a meat retreat into an in-lock cabin once you once you have the uh the little ones. So my plan is to put a small U.S.
+
+[13:52] cooler game locker in along uh along with uh areas to hold my meat slicer and butchering tables. I really want a buffalo chopper, and who doesn't? Uh the big question is what to use as a fermentation curing chamber. I was looking in U.S. cooler mixed floral coolers which allow you to control temperature and humidity.
+
+[14:06] But would they work? Just something to think about. Well, I don't know. I I was trying to look at a little bit of it. They're mainly meant for flowers, high humidity, and cool.
+
+[14:13] Uh if you want to control it more, you can also, it's very easy to build a uh simple uh humidity temperature controller for like two, three hundred bucks, so you could control uh however you want. I could go into that if anyone's interested later. I don't really have time, unfortunately, today, but it's you if you Google humidistat andor humidity control for a couple hundred bucks, you can do it. Uh and also Jacob Rudson, based on our recommendation, he got the book of garlic and aliens for his girlfriend. She's a science and food nut and has her degree in mechanical engineering.
+
+[14:38] Meky, love Mekie, Mekie and Touble E, my two favorite e's, and owns her own small bakery. She thought it was pretty freaking awesome. Thanks for the help. Sincerely, Jacob. Uh should we take our first commercial break?
+
+[14:47] Yeah. Alright, go to our first commercial break. Cooking issues. Them young girls, they do get weird. Wearing that same old shaggy dress.
+
+[15:22] But when she gets weary, try a little tendonet. You know she's waiting. Yes. And test all painting. That's your nephew, nepha, never nephe's there waiting.
+
+[15:59] And without them. Trua. A little tenderness. A little tenderness, yeah. Alright, so hey, welcome back to cooking issues.
+
+[16:15] Dave Marlon. Calling your questions to uh what is it? 7184972128. That's 7184972128. Today's show is sponsored by Modernist Pantry, supplying innovative ingredients for the modern cook.
+
+[16:25] Do you love to experiment with new cooking techniques and ingredients, but hate to overspend for pounds of supplies when only a few grams are needed per application? Modernist Pantry has a solution. They offer a wide range of modern ingredients and packages that make sense for the home cooking enthusiast, and most cost only around five bucks. Thanks stocking stuffer. Saving you time, money, and storage space.
+
+[16:44] Whether you're looking for hydrocolloids, pH buffers, or even meat glue. Why even meat glue? It's like meat glue is weirder than the rest of it. Yeah, well, it sounds weird. Oh, okay.
+
+[16:52] Uh, you'll find it at Modernist Pantry. And if you need something that they don't carry, just ask. Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you. With inexpensive shipping to any country in the world, Modernist Pantry is your one stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients. Modernist Pantry values your feedback and encourage it.
+
+[17:07] They have now decided to add product reviews to their website. Any customer who visits a site to post a review before next week's show will get a free ten dollar gift certificate. Good towards the person of anything purchase of anything in the store. Let Chris and Company know what you love or what you'd improve about their products or service and help other customers by sharing your experience. Visit modernistpantry.com for all of your modernist cooking needs.
+
+[17:30] Yeah. Right? That's my new sound effect. Do you like that? Paper crunching on the mic sounds awesome.
+
+[17:35] Yeah, it does. It really does. Uh, okay. Gavin Norcal writes in on rotisseries and frying. Hey Nastasha, love the show.
+
+[17:41] You and Dave are great. Thanks for doing it every week. You are welcome. I had a suggestion for a cooking equipment gift for the holidays, as Dave requested at the end of the last week's show. A good quality deep fryer for the home probably can be had at a reasonable price, gently used from Craigslist or eBay.
+
+[17:56] I think it's under uh an underappreciated home appliance. Folks just need to take the plunge, haha, and use them, and I'm sure Dave can offer lots of suggestions for home use beyond French fries, right? Well, did you pick a question that I like? Okay, look. For the past twelve years or so, 10, 12 years, I've had uh in my home a professional deep fryer.
+
+[18:21] When I say professional, it requires 35 pounds of oil to fill it up and uh requires 90,000 BTUs of gas. Now, this sucker can take that 35 pounds of oil, which is a little more than five gallons, and heat it up to frying temperatures in about five minutes flat. Now, there is so much, and I got it for fifty bucks by the way. A Mexican restaurant went out of business uh down at what the time was the World Trade Center, uh, and I bought it there and professional deep fryers now almost always have stainless steel kettles on the inside because they're easier to clean. I found an old black steel one, and because nobody wanted it, and because there was a tiny leak in the bottom of the kettle that I had to braise shut, uh, I got it for 50 bucks.
+
+[19:02] And I wheeled it home in a snowstorm uh and hooked it up, and it's maybe the greatest thing uh I own. I love it. Uh here's the deal people have a misconception about frying. Uh when you have a large deep fryer like that, the oil lasts a lot longer, the food tastes a lot better, uh, and it's a lot it's a lot better. It's not like a small fryer is a smaller version of a real fryer.
+
+[19:26] A real restaurant fryer, um, especially a gas-fired one, uh tube fryer has uh what's called a cold zone. So what happens is first of all, the tubes are very large, and you have a very large uh flow, a very large surface area to heat. So you're not locally overheating the oil anywhere. It also starts nice uh uh convection currents of oil so that it really heats up very, very quickly and very evenly, has amazing recovery. The other thing is is that there's a large area below the tubes where all of the little particles from your food that come off settle.
+
+[19:56] Now, in a normal fryer at home, that stuff just sits at the bottom, scorches, burns, and ruins your oil. In a in a commercial fryer, they sink beneath the tubes into a much colder area of oil so that they don't burn and they don't ruin the rest of your oil. They just settle to the bottom. Then at the end of the night, you open it, you drain your oil, you filter it out, you pour it back in, and you're good to go. So your oil lasts a lot longer.
+
+[20:17] Also, there's nothing on I and by the way, a fry every damn thing in that thing. I fry uh rack of lamb, rack of goat, prime rib, steak, french fries, onion rings, fried chicken, uh basically anything that you want to eat can be fried. The best way to test your oil when you're frying uh to see whether she's still good or not. And yes, it's a woman, Nastasha. I know uh is to take a piece of neutral bread, fry the bread, and then eat the bread, because it soaks up the oil and the bread's very neutral, so it's very easy to test whether you're uh whether it's gone bad.
+
+[20:47] I've never done on eBay or Craigslist, although I'm sure you can. Uh if you live near a major city, you unfortunately have restaurants closing down all the time, uh, and you can get it at auction pretty pretty cheap. I mean, uh you I used to get all my stuff on auction um back before I had kids, and my wife still let me bring made major pieces of kitchen equipment home uh before I lived in a tiny apartment. But anywho, uh okay. And uh uh Gabe writes in while I have you, here's a question uh for the next podcast.
+
+[21:13] How about rotisserie turkey? I know Thanksgiving is behind us, but I was looking for an awesome roasting technique and thought rotisserie would be perfect if you would get the right setup. Does Dave know of any good spit setup uh outdoor wood oven with a side uh heat source like a wood fired oven? And what are the physics of having that pulsive heat that you get from rotisserie? And is it so good on chicken because it's continually being basted as it turns?
+
+[21:33] Okay, I don't know of a good uh rotisserie motor uh normal normally. Uh I built one once a long time ago to do a pig, but all rotisserie motors that I've seen, uh inexpensive ones anyway, are horrible. They suck. Uh and the reason is is the gearing isn't very good. So if you have a bad rotisserie, uh what happens is is you almost never have the meat on a rotisserie perfectly centered.
+
+[21:55] So the rotisserie slows down as it as it's lifting the heavier side of the of the meat over the top. Then it's it usually stops for a second, falls as it goes through the heavier part until the gear catches again and then goes a little faster on the down. So you basically don't have even heating all the way around. It's awful. I don't know why anyone's uh no one's invested in like a simple precision like worm gear drive that can't be overdriven.
+
+[22:20] Uh I used one once with a bow dean, which is an awesome little motor. Uh, and that thing, that sucker was dead on. Like I could have, I could have swung uh, you know, I could have swung a piece of meat entirely on one side and it would have spun evenly. Okay. So that said, I don't know of a good setup.
+
+[22:35] Uh it's all about um it's all about securing the meat and making sure that it doesn't flop around and and that the wingtips or or whatever don't fly off and get burnt. And you we gotta be careful when you're tying it that your string doesn't catch on fire and come off and the wings get burnt. That said, rotisserie is a fan fantastic technique, not because of the pulsive heat, but because you're applying a high average, a high, sorry, instantaneous heat on the one side, right? Uh, which is uh making a good skin or a good crust on whatever you're cooking, but a low average heat because you don't enclose it. You know, that's why you don't want to enclose a rotisserie.
+
+[23:08] And enclosed rotisserie is basically an oven with a broiler on one side. Rotisserie is really uh very akin to low temperature cooking in that you're keeping the average heat input very low, so you're not in cooking the meat. Uh the base, the self-basting helps, I guess, somewhat because it gets a little uh oil on the outside, but I don't know the actual science of the of the basting and what that does. I probably should, I should research it. But uh that said, the trick of a rotisserie is uh trying to get the heat input uh low enough that it doesn't over do too much overcooking of the outside of the meat, but high enough such that it cooks in a reasonable amount of time.
+
+[23:41] Uh and so that's that's the trick. But I don't know of a good wood fire to be great. Uh it's just a question of finding a good rotisserie motor, and I think that's one of the things we might build someday. Okay. Okay.
+
+[23:51] What do you mean? He's not paying attention. I am. Okay. Uh Jason Mulinari writes in about deep fried chicken and also wasabi.
+
+[24:00] Jason, I'm gonna apologize in advance. I don't know the answer to the wasabi question, but we will uh put it out to our readers. Keep up the good work with the podcast and Nastasha, keep hammering. Like that? Keep hammering.
+
+[24:10] A couple of questions. I'm trying to figure out how I can low temp cook chicken prior to deep frying and maintain the same deliciousness. Hopefully, you can get more deliciousness. Essentially, uh cook for insurance as you call it. Uh what that means is is you cook it the uh chicken beforehand, low temp, and then you fry it, and then when you're frying it, you just have to worry about the crust.
+
+[24:26] You don't have to worry about cooking the chicken all the way through. And that's really, really good technique when you want to cook chicken at the same time as French fries, and you don't want to have two separate oil temperatures. Okay. Uh the problem is the crust doesn't come out uh the same uh with um low temp cooking versus regular straight frying. I imagine because I've denatured some of the proteins in the skin and broken down some of the connective tissue.
+
+[24:47] Have you experimented with a precooked fried chicken? Any advice to get the best possible crust slash crunch on it? The main problem seems to be loss of adhesion between the crust and the chicken almost becoming a shell. Okay. Okay, I have the answer for you.
+
+[25:01] I believe, and tell me if I'm wrong, write in and tell me if I'm wrong. But a lot of people have had this problem. The main problem with adhesion of crust on a chicken is because uh the skin is wet. And when you're cooking something in a uh in low temp, you tend to get a soggy kind of uh uh outside of the skin because it's inside of a bag. What you need to do is as soon as you remove the chicken from the circulator, you need to cut it open while it's still blazing hot, put it on a rack and let the skin flash off and form a pellicle on the outside.
+
+[25:34] Okay? Uh, this is why after you brine a chicken before you fry it, you typically put it on a rack and let it dry. I mean, I know Carlos here doesn't do that. Uh Carlo, he doesn't uh Carlo just takes it straight from the brine and puts it in the butt, you know. His recipe, I haven't I haven't tested with it yet, but it goes against all all things I've ever known about fried chicken, but it's delicious, so I'll have to look into it anyway.
+
+[25:55] Uh so you want to form a pellicle, and that's gonna increase the adhesion, a dry thing. Then you're gonna want to go, I do a flour, then I do my uh liquid uh dip, which is uh a buttermilk, egg, baking powder, baking soda, salt, pepper, and then back into the flour. I'm just telling you the steps I use because if you're using a different kind of a breading technique, perhaps it won't work the same way, but it's all about drying the chicken off, and the best way is remove it from the bag when hot, let it dry on a rack, then bread it, then fry it. And uh, you should get the same kind of quality. And second question: why does wasabi taste so much stronger when paired with shellfish?
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+[26:29] Uh it seems that when the same quantity of wasabi is put on uh ebby or a fish, Ebbie, you know, being a sweet shrimp, um the ebbie blows my sinuses up. I don't know. Do you have that experience, uh Nastasha, that it's stronger on uh shellfish? No, I no, I haven't tasted no. I don't know.
+
+[26:45] In other words, like, so on a s on the on the shrimp, he's getting more of a hit than he is on the fish. I don't know. I don't know either. Well, someone's gonna someone better write in or something like that. I did some preliminary searches on it, but that's a tough one to search for in the scientific literature.
+
+[27:01] Really is. Uh that's another one. I I tried to put a call into McGee, but he's on a deadline, so he he he couldn't come in. So then maybe next, maybe next time, maybe maybe for Christmas we can get McGee. You want to get try and get McKee on McGee on our Christmas episode?
+
+[27:12] Sure. Okay. Joe from Chicago writes in about tongue tacos and flan. Hello. I recently tried to impress my girlfriend by making a pumpkin flan in a low-temp water bath and completely failed.
+
+[27:24] Oh, that sucks. My approach was fairly simple. I basically applied Douglas Baldwin's approach to creme brulee to the flam flan custard mixture. Uh Douglas's technique, and Doug Doug Baldwin wrote um a sous vide primer that's on the web, and he wrote a book, and he was working on some of the uh differential equations with Nathan Mirvold for uh cooking times, uh which uh you know our uh our team of uh experimenters might be interested in that you know that are working on that uh science project. Okay.
+
+[27:49] Douglas's technique basically involves blending the various ingredients, pouring into a bag and cooking for 15 minutes at 180 degrees Fahrenheit. He actually cooks uh yeah, I guess a little higher. Agitate the bag, cook it for another 15 minutes, and then distribute it to a service vessel. I went with a pie pan that I applied uh caramel crust to the bottom. Uh so he's doing a flan, so he's gonna invert it.
+
+[28:08] Uh what I had left was a slightly more viscous mixture with some grain to it that did not improve at all after sitting, because Douglas lets his stuff uh sit in a service vessel for in like a ramekin for like four hours to eight hours to supposedly set up. Uh it did not improve after sitting in the fridge. The result was delicious, but not even close to a flan texture. It sort of collapsed into a pile of porridge when I flipped it on the plate. Do you have any temp uh tips for making low temp flan?
+
+[28:31] This technique is way more appealing to me than the traditional oven water bath approach. Okay. So Douglas Baldwin, what he does is he puts all the ingredients for he basically takes a creme anglaise mixture, by the way, and not like a standard uh like uh like a pot de creme or a or a or a custard mix for like a flan, right? And then he uh blends it and then he puts it into a bag, cooks it, uh, and then agitates it in a ziploc bag and then pours it in hope to set. This is never, first of all, uh he cooks it for 30 minutes.
+
+[29:01] Now on his I he you can YouTube Douglas Baldwin and go look at his YouTube and go all the way through it. But he basically he cooks his his custard, his what he calls a custard anywhere between 175 and 180 degrees five degrees Fahrenheit, which is anywhere from a little under 80 degrees Celsius to about 85 degrees Celsius. And he cooks it for a half of an hour. Now I've done many, many, many creme anglaise, which is a very similar mixture in bags in the in the circulator over time. I think half hour is too long.
+
+[29:28] Uh the longer you cook it, it does start getting thicker, so we'll get thicker, but also the egg taste comes out a lot more. So it ends up tasting a lot more like cooked eggs the longer uh you cook it. We try to keep our time between about 15 and um and 20 minutes at you know, in in a bag, at and we always do uh 82 degrees Celsius, uh, which is about 181 degrees uh Fahrenheit. I think 185 degrees Fahrenheit, which is 85 degrees Celsius, is too high. I think it's it's too high.
+
+[29:58] Uh and I think that the other number he gives, 175, which is 80 degrees Celsius, isn't going to set uh in the proper amount uh of time. So I would definitely uh do that. He also does his uh stuff in Ziplocks, and a Ziploc will work at those high temperatures, as he says, uh, but they're very fragile at those temperatures, so you have to be careful. The other problem is that if you do a side-by-side taste test of a uh creme en glaze made in a ziploc versus a creme en glaze made in a vacuum bag, the one in the vacuum bag tastes a lot better, and I think it's because the air that's trapped into the mixture when you're blending it, you're not getting any of that out, and it adds a kind of eggy sulfury taste to it that you don't get if you do it in a full-on vacuum bag. Uh as one of the uh the readers of his uh YouTube thing said, perhaps that when you're taking the bag out to agitate it so it doesn't form any curds uh halfway through the cook, you could crack the bag a little bit and get rid of some of the excess air, and maybe that'll fix some of the problem.
+
+[30:50] Uh, you know, because Douglas says when it happens that that it's mainly water vapor, and there is it is mainly water vapor caused from the increase of heat, but there's also some residual air from when he put it in the blender. Um okay. The other thing is is that aside from the fact that I would do that a creme and glaze in a vacuum bag and not in a ziploc, if you can help it, um a creme brulee uh to me is not done with a stirred kind of custard that way, it's done with a set custard. So I typically use a pot de creme recipe uh which is cooked in in a C vap oven, so it's not agitated at all. In fact, it's it's completely stationary.
+
+[31:25] Uh and the same holds true for a flan. A flan, unlike a creme brulee, which can be eaten out of the uh out of the pot, right? Uh, and I do mine, like I said, in a CVAP. I'll pour the uh the mixture, the custard mixture, into a ramic in, put it in a C vap oven, which is basically a steam uh low temperature steam oven, and I'll cook it at the same temperature that I would in a water bath, but without stirring, and it sets up into a nice creme brulee, I brulee it, it's great. For a flan, you need to add more texture because you have to unmold it.
+
+[31:53] So, first of all, you can't follow his recipe and use egg yolks. You have to use whole eggs so that you get that extra protein in there to have it set so you can uh upend it. Now, I've never done this, so I have no idea whether this would work. But you might be able to uh take a ramekin, uh put or or your pie pan won't work because it's gonna explode in the vacuum. But you could probably put it in a ramekin, uh I guess you do it in a ziploc too, and then put a lid on it and then ziplock it shut underwater and then weight it down so that you're in a water bath, but still in a ramekin.
+
+[32:25] The whole trick is to heat it at an accurate temperature without stirring it. But you're gonna have to go longer if it's not stirred and you're not getting convection with the bag with it moving around, you're gonna have to cook it a lot longer. So uh we typically do around uh you know 80, 82, 80, so between like he does, between 181 and 185 in a steam oven for about 45 minutes in a ramekin, and you should get a good result, and then you should be able to turn it off. So uh did that answer that question? Yeah.
+
+[32:53] Okay, second question. I made uh tacos de lengua, that's tongue, for the same meal. Uh thankfully my girlfriend is as adventurous as I am, and followed Kenji Alt's approach. Uh Kenji sou vives his uh tacos tongue for tacos. He suggests 24 to 48 hours at 170 Fahrenheit, which is 76.6 uh Celsius.
+
+[33:12] So I split the difference and cook my tongue for 36 hours. The results were entirely too mushy for me, but my girlfriend claimed to enjoy it a lot. What are your suggestions if I'm aiming for a texture that has more bite to it? I was thinking about trying 24 hours at 170. Thanks.
+
+[33:25] Joe from Chicago. Even that is too long for me. Look, when you're cooking up at 76.6 degrees, you're basically doing standard braise temperature. So the advantage you're getting from the bag is only a uh having to use less liquid so you can have a more intense tongue fli uh taste and also probably a slightly higher yield. Uh but and you know, you don't have to make as much too as you would in a traditional brace, so you could do a small amount in a bag.
+
+[33:48] So that's all great. But at those temperatures, uh, I wouldn't think you'd have to cook it longer than so if it's if a traditional braise was going to be like four hours, five hours, I would do only do it a couple hours more, like six, seven, eight, nine. You know what I mean? Like not that long. Uh that when you cook something for a long time, it tends to break all the texture down and it can get kind of mushy, as you say.
+
+[34:09] And some people like it that way. I don't. I I I like a little more texture to it. So I would try a radically shorter amount of time, like 12 or 10, uh, and see see how that is. And if it's not, you know, great, then you can uh I would put like a tester in a bag and then have your main bag and then pull one after 10 hours to see whether you like it.
+
+[34:28] And if you like it, go with that. If it's already too mushy, you have to go less. But I think you'll probably be okay with like eight to ten hours at those temperatures. But give me a shot, see what you think. Okay.
+
+[34:37] On the brine subject, I'm unfortunately going to push that brine subject off until next week again because I'm gonna try to get a hold of uh McGee because I also want to have the argument with McGee on the air about whether a brining a turkey causes you to have too much uh salt in the pan drippings and therefore not being able to use the gravy. And I was thinking about it in the shower this morning uh while I was washing my hair because I wash my hair every day, which apparently women and and men who care about their appearance do not. Is that true? Jack. Um, I wash my hair every day.
+
+[35:09] See, that's what I'm saying. I think are you not supposed to? Uh that's what I'm saying. Apparently not. I was told that, like, I guess we're like r regular dudes who wash our hair every day.
+
+[35:18] Because like we grew up washing our hair every day. That's what you do. Exactly. Like you go in the shower and the shampoo is there. And you use it on your hair.
+
+[35:25] Yes. To make your hair clean. Yes. Yeah. Well, women don't do that.
+
+[35:29] Were you aware of that, Jack? No. Yeah, yeah, women don't do that. What the hell, Jack? Yeah, anyway.
+
+[35:35] Now Nastasha gets to bust out the how they lose. Yeah. Don't you ask your ex when you had girlfriends if they wash their hair. I don't know. Anyway, anyway, it's an interesting fact for those of you that don't already know this.
+
+[35:47] But there, like in New York, because New York is where New Yorkers, there's a whole subset of uh men who also apparently care uh that their that their hair has a nice sh shine to it. Supposedly, I guess a non-greased shine, although I don't know how that works. So they do not wash their hair every day. How the hell are they getting into that? Oh, I was washing my hair, I was thinking about it, and I think what happens is uh McGee is expecting you to use a broth uh for your to reinforce the drippings to make your gravy or to do something.
+
+[36:17] I always make a stock and use the stock as the basis of the gravy and reinforce it with the pan drippings. The stock doesn't have any salt in it, and so therefore I'm not getting excess too much salt in my gravy. Does that make sense? Mm-hmm. Anyway, I want to have this argument with them on the air, and so we'll push off the uh the uh what's it called until until then.
+
+[36:34] Okay, uh Ken also, uh Ken Ingber wrote in, and uh he says, I want to remind you about the cooking issue I raised uh a few months ago regarding the lack of research on oxalate content of food. Uh oxalosis and kidney stones is the problem uh most recently faced for Thanksgiving, uh, because potatoes have a lot of it. Sweet potatoes are worse, cooked carrots and cooked celery are are poisonous to people with this problem, although raw celery seems to be okay for no apparent reason. Uh cranberry sauce is okay, but almonds are disastrous, and the list goes on and on. Uh I'm I more or less made two different meals, one that was low in ox uh oxalates and one that was normal.
+
+[37:07] As I uh said previously, oxalosis seems to be a rare disease, but there are plenty of people who have had kidney stones, i.e. my mom, uh, or are candidates for them, and the docs often say doctors often suggest a low oxalate diet. Uh I'm telling you, if you want to follow a low oxalate diet, good luck. The research and guidance are almost non-existent. Much of what is out there on the internet is from unreliable, pseudo-holistic or nutraceutical sorts of people.
+
+[37:27] Well, charts I have found from hospitals, foundations, and other sites that appear to be reputable, are inconsistent and would love to know more and how to accumulate reliable information. So I did a search again, and I went to the oxalosis and hyperoxaluria foundation, the OHF, and looked at their list of foods, and sure enough, Ken, it is a weird list of foods. And um, I think the problem is is there's not intensive research. First of all, like uh the the oxalate content of a food i is dependent in plant foods, is radically dependent upon kind of where it's grown, how it's grown, the conditions it's grown. Uh and so same with carrots, the calcium content, therefore the oxalate and all that concentration of the inside of a carrot is widely varied depending on where it comes from and how it's grown, the age of maturity, the variety, etc.
+
+[38:06] etc. And so uh because people haven't been doing the research, no one has done the research to try and figure out how to grow something with a predictable amount of oxalate in it. At least I haven't found anything so far. And so when it becomes a big enough deal, perhaps people will uh try to figure out a way, maybe not to reduce it and everything, but at least to make it consistent so that you're gonna know ahead of time what you're gonna go on. For instance, a random one you might not think of.
+
+[38:31] You think of oxalic acid when you think of rhubarbs, so you'd naturally stay away from it. But almonds, which have a very high oxalate content, you wouldn't think about it. So it's very, very weird. Secondly, he writes in uh to keep uh Dave Abreast or some buzz in the consumer coffee circles, uh, there is a new Breville 900 XL espresso maker that just became available in the U.S. The buzz is that because Breville is a major appliance maker, and by the way, Breville is pushing freaking hard.
+
+[38:53] They uh they they are they gave a bunch of stuff to the French Culinary Institute. They were at uh South Beach Food and Wine Festival last year, Nastasha, remember that? They uh they uh were working with Christina Tozzi from Milk Bar. Uh they're pushing hard with all of their appliances. Maybe, yeah, or give us some free crap at least, something anyway.
+
+[39:13] Um so they're pushing hard. I haven't used a lot of their appliances, although I will say that their their uh stand mixer that's trying to compete with KitchenAid comes with the scraper paddle blade, which is nice. You know, you don't have to buy an extra one, which I thought was nice, but I haven't I haven't used it yet. Anyway, the buzz is that because Brevel's a major appliance maker and can manufacture much more cheaply. Breville's $1,200 machine uh probably competes with uh regular commercial machines twice the price.
+
+[39:36] Dual stainless steel boiler boilers, variable pre-infusion, manual and automatic brew settings, a nice porta filter, really aimed at the budding barista types, um, and uh it seems like it has adequate steam pressure. There's not a full review on Coffee Geek yet, but you know, what do you think? I I looked at a uh I looked at a uh what's it called uh YouTube on it, and it seems okay. You don't really want stainless steel for your boiler. Most people want brass because, well, I guess here's the thing: all the old, all the old uh issues people had with espresso machines are really based on what that espresso machine was meant to do and and how it was designed.
+
+[40:09] Old espresso machines are designed uh to throw away a huge amount of heat and therefore become stable by taking in a bunch of uh energy and then throwing a bunch of it away, and that's how they gain stability. Uh now that everything's controlled uh with microprocessors, that's not the same reason you don't need that anymore. So you probably don't need a big brass boiler, stainless steel boiler is probably great and very sanitary and all that. It also has a heated uh um head, which means that separately heated head, which means it I mean it could be good. I'd love to try uh a couple shots with it.
+
+[40:38] Maybe if Breville was one of our sponsors, they could give us one of those machines and we could test it out. What do you think, Jack? Yeah, let's do it. Sound like it sounded like a good thing? Yes.
+
+[40:45] All right. Uh now we're gonna do have to wrap up in two minutes because we have a one o'clock show. Uh two minutes. Two minutes. All right, so we'll leave with this.
+
+[40:53] Listen, call in your questions next week uh for for Christmas related stuff and for your last minute uh Christmas shopping. I appreciated the Friar uh comment. That was a good one. Uh Colin wrote in with some uh typical Colin uh lunacy, and we'll I guess we'll end on that. Uh Colin says, uh dearest David, Nastasha, and Jack.
+
+[41:12] Uh and Carlos, you know, you've got to call Carlos. Really, Carlos? Wow, he didn't say that, he just called you out, but I'm saying I'm at here's how I suggest getting a rough number of listeners. I agree that an online poll is a good way to collect data. Something simple like, did you listen to cooking issues episode 66?
+
+[41:26] Well, did you? Well, did you? Uh do you regularly listen to cooking issues? Of course, people wouldn't answer that. And then uh, and then here's the weird one.
+
+[41:33] What do you think of the uh hyper advanced civilizations of the future will think when they unearth recordings of this direct that Dave Arnold spews into the universe? Wow. Wow, harsh. Uh okay. Uh okay, here's the thing.
+
+[41:46] He also thinks that what we should do is I should sketch a picture of Nastasha's vegan face, sign it, and then offer it as a prize to a random poll taker. We should sketch a picture of the face she just made after hearing that. Yeah. Yeah. He said, and he says, granted, that prize has a bias towards regular listeners who listeners who know what a vegan face is.
+
+[42:03] I think even if you don't know, you would gotta know that a vegan face can't be a good thing, right? No offense to vegans out there. Am I right? Well, vegans would think it's a nice face. Yeah.
+
+[42:13] There are probably some nice vegan faces out there. But not Nastasha's vegan face. No. Alright. Vegan face cooking issues.
+
+[42:34] Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up to date news and information. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:03] Broadcasting live from Roberta's in Bushwick, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live every Tuesday from 12 to 1245. Today I'm actually not in Robertas uh in Brooklyn and Bushwick uh as I normally am because for the first time in my life, my bike failed me in a time of need.
+
+[0:44] And my tire uh went completely flat in an unreparable way, right as I was off uh off to the studio. So I'm joining you live from my living room on a phone. Uh also not with me today, strangely, is Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, because even though this is our holiday edition, uh she decided to hightail it out to her actual holiday. She's in California with her family right now. So the only person, I don't know if Carlo is there, uh Carlos is there rather, but Jack, our intrepid engineer, is chilling live in Bushwick and on the radio show.
+
+[1:18] Howdy, Jack. Hey, we're both here. Yeah. Oh, hey, howdy. So listen, who's our sponsor today?
+
+[1:24] Uh it's it's Modernist Cuisine, but uh I'll I'll have to read that copy, I think. Yeah, and you want to do it after the first break? Yeah, I'll do it after the first break. Modernist Pantry, sorry. All right, all right.
+
+[1:34] Well, you know, Modernist Cuisine, the great book, and we'll talk about that later. Modernist Pantry, the place where you can buy the ingredients you read about in the book. You know what I'm saying? Anyway. Okay, so uh calling all your questions to 7184972128.
+
+[1:47] That's 718497 2128. We'll see whether we can juggle me being on the phone and you calling in on the phone. That'll be fun. Okay. Uh Matthew writes in with a granita question.
+
+[1:58] Hey, David Nastash, I was wondering if you had any advice on making a granita at home without any special equipment, i.e. an ice cream or sobe ice cream machine or sorbet maker. I've read a few recipes online which call for putting the fruit and syrup mix in a pan and stirring it periodically as it freezes. Is there any way to improve on this technique without forking out $4,000 for a paco jet? The specific granita I'm trying to make is blood orange.
+
+[2:19] Thanks, Matthew. Alright, well look. The deal with uh a granita, right, is that it's supposed to have a grainy kind of a texture. Granita, right? So uh it's not so much of an issue that uh its texture kind of kind of is is not good.
+
+[2:37] I mean, I look I'm not a giant huge fan of I have to admit, of the granita. Uh I much prefer like a smoother thing like uh uh a sorbet. Um so let's pretend like you want to make a sorbet for a minute. Then I would get uh something, if you don't want to spend a lot of money, I would get something like a champion juicer, freeze everything rock, rock, rock, rock hard, and then put it through a champion juicer with a brine plate attached to it, and uh and you can even do that with um, you know, like frozen fruits and whatnot, and you can get out, put sugar in, and you can get out uh passable sorbet. And I guess if you if you if you decrease the sugar content, it's gonna be icier, and it's gonna have an icier texture and it'll taste more like a granita.
+
+[3:15] The the periodic freezing technique that they uh you're using is basically the idea is you're trying to break up and fluff the crystals as they're forming. Harold McGee is uh very popular of sorry, Harold McGee is uh very interested in this uh thing called um uh needle ice cream, pin needle ice cream, which is an old, old, old French thing. It's an actual ice cream, uh with you know with milk and and whatnot in it, uh cream, fat and all that, but it is supposed to have very long uh crystals in it. And so you stir it very, very periodically and try to maintain these kind of large crystals. So slow uh slow freezing with periodic stirring is going to give large granito like crystals uh and you know basically making with an ice cream machine or blending a solid thing like a Paco jet you're never gonna get a Paco jet texture but you don't want it you want a granita texture.
+
+[4:03] So try uh yeah try either a champion juicer or hell even try take uh the cubes blend them and then put them back in the fridge and harden them up a little bit and uh see how that works. Let me know let me know what what goes on. I should study granitas more but it's just not my uh it's not my cup of tea although Paco jets are amazing. I love them. Anyway, okay.
+
+[4:22] Um Rolf writes in uh dear Miss Hammer fortunately she's not here she can't even listen she's on a plane right now from uh I think she's she transferred so check this out. She's decided, right, that um she's the cheapest holiday person in the in the world. So she's flying out now with like eight eighteen connections, right? So she it's basically it's taking her like three days and four nights to get from New York to LA because of the number of connections she chose to get because she's so cheap. But even worse than that, she's flying back on and she's Christian and she's flying back on Christmas day.
+
+[4:56] On Christmas Day. She's yeah right? Wow. And it's because did I already mention this last thing it's because she's so cheap. Right she says it's because w it's what I pay her.
+
+[5:05] But really it's because she's so cheap, right, that uh that she w wouldn't do it any other role. And I was like, but you're gonna make your dad drive you after Christmas dinner to the airport. It's kinda crazy, right? Anyway, whatever. I I won't talk too much about it because she's not here to defend herself.
+
+[5:22] Not that she ever does, but there you go. Okay. So uh Dave recently asked for ideas for cooking related holiday gifts. Perhaps he has recommended favorites for a good value thermocouple thermometer. Actually Ralph, I uh I don't.
+
+[5:37] I'm not super I've never had a thermometer where I said, wow, I love that. You know what I mean? It's it's uh I've had plenty of them break. Um I've used uh multimeter based uh thermometers which are very cheap. Uh I've used you know all those things.
+
+[5:56] I've never been I've never been super super happy. I mean thermocouple if you buy a a dedicated thermocouple thermometer they're typically they used to be expensive. They're getting cheaper and cheaper. I mean the X Tech stuff it seems pretty cheap uh and it's okay. A lot of the stuff I've had uh you know break it really depends on on what you need and what kind of a a cost uh you're looking for I mean the good thing about thermocouple thermometers as opposed to the other types they're not actually extraordinarily accurate you have to calibrate them out of the box but what's nice about them is that you can get loads of different probes.
+
+[6:27] You know the ones that that we use uh to penetrate the bag for sous v stuff the hypodermic probes can get pricey you know they're they start at about uh eighty sixty to eighty dollars and usually run up over over about a hundred but the good news with one of with a thermocouple is that you can go on McMaster McBaster dot com and just order thermocouple wire and make your own thermocouples. In fact I have a post on the blog from like three years ago on uh making your own thermocouples. It's really cheap and I I do that a lot when I have to test a lot of a lot of different things. If you need a computer uh data acquisition. That stuff has gotten really cheap.
+
+[7:03] I have a uh uh you know, a DAQ digital, whatever it is, acquisition, blah, blah, blah, uh, from um measurement computing. It costs 150 bucks and puts eight channels of thermocouples into my computer. Pretty cool. Anyway, uh, another one, a good quality immersion blender. I'm not really happy with any immersion blender, to be honest.
+
+[7:22] I don't have uh I don't own one of the the band mixes, although people seem to think they're nice. You know, as many of you who have ever met me known, uh one of the things I'm going to be building with the new company that I'm starting uh with Dave Chang, which is Bub, by the way, official now. All the documents have been signed. It's an official company now, it exists. Yay.
+
+[7:41] Uh that uh is one of the things I'm gonna be tackling because there's a lot to be done out there in the uh immersion blender world. Pressure cooker, I go with Coon Recon. They also buy pressure cooker. I know they're expensive, uh, but I've used in many different kinds in many different price ranges, and I just like the Coon Recons. And uh they've linked to the blog a couple times, but they've never given me a damn thing.
+
+[8:05] Can you believe that, Jack? Can you believe that? Never give me a damn thing. The number of times I pumped out for them. Anyway, uh I would use them, and the reason is is because they're non-venting.
+
+[8:13] Uh the pans themselves are fairly high quality. I've owned mine and it's been through continuous uh abuse for uh you know years and years and years. I broke off the handle, but it still works like a like a champ. Um, I don't like the ones that vent because I think that they reduce the quality of uh flavors of things like stocks, although they're fine for some applications. I've used the giant American pressure canners and I just put one, uh gave it to the guys at Sandbar to use to make a large, large, large quantities of pressure cooked eggs.
+
+[8:45] Um, but not so good for home use because it's just so dang big. Uh I like the electric of the electric one. I mean, I like the Queznot one that I have. The exception is that you can't use it out of the box because you have to modify it because the temperature is not high enough. For some reason, they decided to set the temperature below the standard 15 PSI for a pressure cooker and so I had to go in and modify it.
+
+[8:59] Again, notes on the blob. Don't I can't really recommend that you do it because of course it's not safe and all that. But anyway, you can see how I did it on the blob. For a cream whipper infusion thing, I mean ISI, look, I know they're expensive and I have actually done work for them so you know ev you know everything uh above board here but I've also used crappy the last time I was in Columbia, the country I uh I did a demo and they got me some off brand like whipper to use and this thing just wouldn't seal right. It was a complete nightmare.
+
+[9:39] So I think it's probably worth the extra money for uh the ISI on that just because I wouldn't think it would be worth the extra money and then when I've used crappy ones, they've leaked on me. Um vacuum sealer, I mean I like the mini pack, the small one. If you have the $1500 to spend, I go ahead and get the mini pack because it's got the nicest chamber size of any vacuum uh machine in its class. But still that's like you're forking out between $1500 and two two grand for it. Um but you know mm there you have it.
+
+[10:08] Um and digital scale is the last one. It's a tough one on a digital scale because everything depends on what you want or need. Uh you know so the question is if you're going to do hydrocholoride work, you should be able to measure something down to the tenth gram because occasionally that's going to come up. Right? But then on the other hand if you do a lot of work with meats you're gonna want something that can weigh many kilos.
+
+[10:30] Now, I have an old scale uh from you know that I brought off of eBay that was you know kind of like a it's a weird scale. It does 12 kilograms by the tenth gram, and plus it's a county scale. I think it's sick, but the problem with a similar capabilities today, you'd have to spend thousands of dollars on something that had multiple balance ranges so you could do small amounts and large amounts. Um so what I would do instead is just get a good quality wash down scale. There's some waterproof scales uh from A and D.
+
+[11:00] I haven't used them, so I don't know whether they're any good, but that's a really nice feature. You can throw it in the dishwasher, they claim, and then get a uh get a large one for things like meats and a small one. Uh things that bother me about scales is when they turn off. I like a scale that plugs in and stays on forever. This way, if you're measuring stuff uh into uh container and you walk away uh and you come back, uh you still have your measurement, which is great if you forgot something, or if you're called away for a minute, or if something catches on fire on the stove and you have to walk away and look at it, you come back, you don't want to have to re-weigh the thing that was partially weighed in there.
+
+[11:34] So I hate a scale that turns off. Anyway, uh just my not specific brand recommendation, but just what I would look for. All right. So uh a couple of weeks ago, you know, there's an ongoing uh tech, is it high school project? It's high school, right?
+
+[11:50] The high school project on uh temperatures? I think I think it was a high school project, yeah. Yeah, high school, anyway. So uh I uh mentioned this uh program, the Sue Vosh, which is basically an iPhone iPad application that allows you to uh uh check what temperature um you know something's gonna be, depending on its on what it is, on the temperature of your water bath, etc. etc.
+
+[12:10] Anyway, the guys wrote back uh they heard that I mentioned it, and so they said this. Uh thanks for your mention on the show a couple of weeks ago. We're always looking for suggestions on how to make our application even better, and I think your suggestion about not changing temperature settings when the food is changed is a good one. It's actually something we've gone back and forth on. So basically the the problem is that there's all these parameters, and if you change one, like, hey, instead of changing it, like maybe I didn't want to cook chicken, but I want to keep the water bath the same.
+
+[12:36] I want to cook fish or something like that. Not that you'd ever change from chicken to fish, me, whatever, but it just changes all the things. Anyway, uh some users like you want to do a lot of exploring and toggle all kinds of settings one by one. Others want to pick uh chicken, fish or whatever, and have the app giving them a reasonable starting point for temperature, blah, blah, blah. Like you, I personally tend to be the tinkering type, but a lot of our users have told us that they they wanted to start with uh normal settings.
+
+[12:58] But that doesn't stop us from trying to figure out how to please everyone. Uh I think we may do an up uh upcoming update that has auto temperature selection on food disabled if you've gone into the advanced and allow any temperature mode. Anyway, they thank us for spending the five dollars, which you really should, because I am a cheap, cheap bastard. To get me to spend five dollars is a very difficult thing to do. Uh and they give a PS, uh I put together a blog post and a video on the fast cook method for eggs in a circulator.
+
+[13:22] And uh if you go to CV.com and look at it, they want to know what I think about it. Well, I'll tell you what I think. So what we're talking about here, for those of you that don't know what the hell I'm talking about, is uh an immersion circulator, which most of you know, is a is a device that keeps water at a very accurate temperature. And the reason you want to do there's a couple of reasons you want to do that. But one reason is you can achieve um textures uh or temperatures all the way through uh a piece of food, and uh and uh that allows you to achieve textures that you couldn't otherwise achieve.
+
+[13:50] For instance, on eggs, right? The difference between a 62 degrees Celsius egg, right, which is runny, that's a poached egg, right, with a very kind of custardy soft white and a runny uh yolk. The difference uh between that and a fully set egg yolk, but it's still very creamy, is only two degrees, sixty-four degrees Celsius. So the window is very, very small, right? And in a large uh chicken egg, right, uh I tend to cook them for one hour, right?
+
+[14:18] So at one hour, I know that the inside of the very inside of the yolk has gotten up to the basically up to the temperature of the bath, and I can pull the egg out and I'm done, right? And that's a typical thing. But a lot of people, there's two things that are going on. One, some people don't want to wait around for uh the eggs to cook for an hour because they're impatient weasels. I don't know why.
+
+[14:39] Anyway, uh and the other thing is perhaps you want a firmer egg white than given with those uh 62 degree eggs, for instance, or 63 degree eggs, which is where most people are cooking. Well, I did a bunch of charts like six, six, seven years ago, something like that, uh, that showed what happened if you used a small temperature delta. So for instance, um take uh set your bath at 65 degrees Celsius, right? And then put your egg in, and put like we put like 10 eggs in. And we pulled them every couple of minutes and looked at them and found that you could in fact get a uh uh an egg white that was like a 65 degree egg, which was our favorite at the time, right, and a yolk that was very similar to a 63 by timing things very exactly.
+
+[15:30] These guys have uh gone ramp that up even further and use like a 70 Celsius or 77 Celsius, I forget, uh water bath, and they're cooking the egg for only 18 minutes, and the the idea is to get a kind of runny textured yolk. All right, here are my issues with it with the technique. One timing now is very, very important. So if you have a particular water bath and you're only putting in like four eggs for you and your spouse, let's say, then uh it's gonna work fine because you're gonna do it the same way every time, right? So even though there's carryover heat and the temperature of the egg yolk is gonna go up a little bit, and the outside of the egg yolk is cooked a little bit more than you'd want, uh, and the inner side, you know, a little under whatever, right?
+
+[16:13] That's all gonna be fine because you can do it the same way every time. The problem from a restaurant point of view is if you're doing a hundred eggs, it's very, very hard to make sure that all the variables are the same every single time. Because a circulator, right, going at a thousand watts is never going to be powerful enough to come back up to temperature right away if you drop a huge uh batch of eggs into it, right? So this is a technique that's mainly meant for smaller batch cooking. Now, on the super flip side, it's become very popular in high-end restaurant circles to go with uh uh boiling water, right?
+
+[16:49] Because they want a traditional overcooked rubbery white on the outside and uh creamy center. And so what these guys are doing is they're basically saying, hey, look, there's one temperature that I know I can maintain hardcore. Screaming boil. And they can put it in and they time it very exactly, and then you can do more batches because it's fairly easy to maintain a super high consistent temperature because you're just slamming the heat into the water and boiling it as hard as you can. Uh so anyway, these are two different ideas, but uh, those are my thoughts.
+
+[17:24] So with that, Jack, why don't we go to the first commercial break? Calling your questions to 718497, 2128, that's 7184972128 cooking your shoes. Santa Claus. Go straight to the ghetto. Hit job your randy.
+
+[17:42] Go straight to the ghetto. Santa Claus. Go straight to the ghetto. Feel every stock in you find. The kids are going to love you so.
+
+[18:04] Leave a tour for Johnny. Leave a dog for Mary. Leave something for the baton it. And don't forget about Garry. Go straight to the ghetto.
+
+[18:25] Santa Claus. Go straight to the ghetto. Tell him James Brown sent you. Wow. Wow, Jack.
+
+[18:37] Good call on the James Brown. I have a James Brown Christmas album. Yeah, it's awesome. Have you have you heard the entire James Brown Christmas album? I think there might be several.
+
+[18:46] I have one. And at the end of the song, he starts screaming, it's called something like, you know, Merry Christmas, Christmas time. At the end of it, he's screaming about how he he loves all the sands because they brought his record and they saw a show. And saw his show. Wow.
+
+[19:10] So remember sitting, like I have it in the Christmas rotation, and you know, uh, and we're sitting around, and yeah, it's like, you know, Bing Flo being all this stuff, and all of a sudden James Brown just comes on and starts screaming about Merry Christmas, Christmas time. You know, it's awesome. Good good business. Oh, yeah. I didn't think anyone else listened to the James Brown Christmas.
+
+[19:28] Cheers to the James Brown Christmas. Uh oh, sorry, you gotta read the uh promo, yeah. Oh, I actually keep going. Alright, I'll keep going. Anytime you want, just browse in and get the promo.
+
+[19:38] Okay, make it up. What are they giving away this week? Not sure. Not sure. Alright, we'll we'll handle it later.
+
+[19:44] Okay. So Aaron writes in with more suggestions on uh vacuum machines cheap because everybody look everybody knows. Everybody wants a inexpensive vacuum machine. Everybody wonders why. Like chamber vacuum machines cost eight zillion dollars.
+
+[20:00] I'll tell you why. One, they don't make that that many of them. That's one. Two, there's a lot of stainless steel in them because they're stainless steel uh restaurant grade. And three, all the good ones have very expensive vacuum pumps in them, right?
+
+[20:14] And the company that makes uh the majority of vacuum pumps for commercial vacuum machines, a company called Busch out of Germany, and the pumps are just really, really, really solid. And a good chunk of the money you're spending is actually for the pump. And you know, if you buy a crap you're they're they're very good in that they can withstand a lot of contamination in the uh in the oil because of the uh vapor that you're boiling, the uh liquid that you're boiling off of your uh product as you're vacuuming it, etcetera, etc. without breaking, and they're just really like, you know, they're the tanka trucks of assuming Tonka's still good, I have no idea, maybe Tonka's crap now. But they're the tanka trucks of uh, you know, vacuum pumps for that kind of a uh an application, and they just cost a lot of money.
+
+[20:59] Right? And so everyone's going around looking for for cheaper alternatives. I've used refrigeration vacuum pumps, and they're okay, they eventually fail. Um, but uh you know, everyone wants super cheap. Well, we all know, much as I actually have met them, they seem like nice people, people that make the food saver.
+
+[21:14] We all know that the vacuum is kind of weak. Well, there's uh another contender out there, uh Ziploc, you know, from uh SC Johnson SC Johnson Wax, I believe is the corporation. They make a little vacuum sealer, and Aaron writes in and says, Is the dang thing any good? I went on the Amazon and it's it's available now for like six bucks. You can buy it for like six bucks.
+
+[21:37] Uh I don't know. I don't know whether it's any good. I've never tried it. It's never going to be a good enough vacuum to uh to to use for uh you know, doing uh vacuum infusion, things like that, which is what I mainly am wine the vacuum for. I mean I'm sure it's really, really good for bagging a muffin without crushing it, so you can throw it in a freezer in an individual Ziploc uh and not get uh weird freezer burn around.
+
+[22:02] I mean, right now I do that with a straw. For anything else, I just use Ziploc bags and uh dip them in water as I back and I get uh very good results with no leaking. So I mean, tell me how it works, Aaron, when you get it, or if anyone else has extensive experience with the Ziploc vacuum, uh write in and and tell us. Hey Dave. What did you say?
+
+[22:23] Did you know today's show is sponsored by Modernist Pantry, supplying innovative ingredients for the modern cook. Do you love to experiment with new cooking techniques and ingredients but hate to overspend for pounds of supplies when only a few grams are needed per application? Modernist Pantry has the solution. They offer a wide range of modern ingredients and packages that make sense for the home cook and enthusiast, and most cost only around five bucks, saving you time, money, and storage space. Whether you're looking for hydrocolloids, pH buffers, or even meat glue, you'll find it at Modernist Pantry.
+
+[22:53] And if you need something that they don't carry, just ask. Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you. With inexpensive shipping to any country in the world, Modernist Pantry is your one-stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients. Modernist Pantry values your feedback, and to encourage it, they've now added product reviews to their website. Any customer who visits the site to post a review before next week's show will get a free ten dollar gift certificate.
+
+[23:15] Good toward the purchase of anything in the store. Let Chris and company know what you love or what you'd improve about their products or service and help other customers by sharing your experiences. Visit modernist pantry.com today for all your modernist cooking needs. Do they ever come by the station ever? No.
+
+[23:33] Anyone ever meet them? We should hang out with them sometime. Where where the hell are they located anyway? That's a great question. Alrighty.
+
+[23:43] So it's still time to call in your holiday related questions too. 7184972128. That's 7184972128. Pedro writes in about fish. Hey Dave and Nastasha, first.
+
+[23:53] I'm a big fan of the show and the show's soundtrack. That that's all Jack nowadays, by the way, Pedro. I rarely make any requests. Nastash can't be bothered. She's texting on the phone the whole time, so it's pretty much all Jack.
+
+[24:02] Am I right? That's true. Yeah, yeah. Yeah. If any of you uh ever want the pleasure, you should really come on a t any Tuesday and watch Nastasha's vegan face while she is uh texting away and uh giving me dirty looks, and you can be served pizza by Indie Jesus, who's actually changed his garb.
+
+[24:20] He's more wild west, Jesus the last time I saw him. Have you seen him today, Jack? You're not there anymore. Uh okay. So, uh Pedro has a quick fish.
+
+[24:31] Sometimes when I buy it, we have a caller. That's extremely free. What happened? We have a caller. Oh, we have a caller?
+
+[24:37] Alright, we'll cut back to Pedro. I'll get back to you one minute. Caller, you're on the air. Hey, how's it going, Dave? It's Brian.
+
+[24:43] Hey, Brian. Hey, um, wanted to let you know I got back from my trip and I got through customs um just fine. I got my spices, I got some uh some dried meats from from my trip. Um so thanks for the thanks for uh the the tips or or you didn't really have any seat characters. You said just go for it and see what happens.
+
+[25:05] And nothing happened to you at all? No, there was a little there was I I I I went through Newark and there was a little dog, one little dog that was sniffing sniffing around, but uh but the dog didn't didn't sniff my stuff, or at least I didn't see the dog sniff my my my stuff and I just went right through. No problem. Are you uh was the meat vacuum packed? It was vacuum packed.
+
+[25:28] I think that I think that's the key. Yeah, I have bad luck with little dogs. I'm more of a big dog guy. Me yeah, well, me me too, but in this case I I I got I got lucky. So uh little dogs.
+
+[25:40] So what what do you what do you speak back if you don't mind telling me? Um I got I got some of those um omani or looming what they're called. The uh the some of those dried limes. Um I got some um some some dried hissop, uh you know, wild hitsop and uh some some wild sage. And um I got got some uh what what looks like the um the besturma and um uh also some uh some other dried sausages.
+
+[26:08] Nice. Well I'm glad I'm glad you made that. Did you write it on your declaration form? I I didn't. So that's all of my smuggling friends, I believe so I forget who was on the show when we were talking about it, but uh they all basically write it on the form.
+
+[26:26] This way if they're caught, they can say, Well, I wrote it on the forum, I just didn't, you know, blah blah blah. So you d really did luck out on that one. Yeah, I I I did. So maybe maybe you know, next time I'll I'll write on the declaration for him. I I did bring some cheeses back from Quebec that were were vacuum sealed uh the last time, but um you know, coming from Canada, they don't they don't they don't care in check quite as much as I I think from some other countries.
+
+[26:50] No, apparently going to Canada the customs can be brutal. This is very weird. I I don't know, look, my son who's uh nine, I apologize for bringing this up, but no, the actually not the nine year old, the uh six year old. He uh he's gotten into comic books. And did you know that there was a guy arrested for uh having a Japanese uh manga uh cartoon comic book and he's uh from America and he's facing a year in prison because they deemed the comic book to be uh child pornography.
+
+[27:19] Strange, huh? Wow. Yeah, there's an American dude chilling in a Canadian jail right now because of a comic book. Because of a Japanese comic book. Yeah, because of a Japanese comic book.
+
+[27:30] Yeah, right. So he got he got dinged with child pornography possession. Apparently Canadians hate look, it's not my style either, but apparently the Canadians hate write uh uh that style of comic book. At least the customs officials do. I mean the Canadians themselves, maybe they love it.
+
+[27:46] I don't know. Anyway, thought I'd mention that. Weird weird fact. All right. Wow.
+
+[27:51] But yeah, no comics for me. Um but while I'm here, two I got I got two questions. One is why don't you guys give a little little West Coast Love and uh play some Tower of Power occasionally. Jack, can you do that for us? Oh sorry, yes.
+
+[28:07] Definitely. Love Tower of Power. I saw them with uh Ray Charles like fifteen years ago. Really? Wow.
+
+[28:15] What a what a what an opportunity. Yeah. Good business. That sounds cool. Um but I got a I got a cooking question here for you.
+
+[28:22] Um so it's um it's citrus season and I want to make some of my own marmalades with um the great uh great fruits we we have out here. Um you got any tips? Marmalade, yeah. We got great citrus at the time of year right now. Well, I mean the real question is how much of the bitterness of the peel do you want in, right?
+
+[28:46] I mean that's the main thing. I mean, so what I would I would do is I would separate the flesh out from the from the uh rind, right? And then treat them separately. And then um, you know, you could do the you could do the hey, if you were real if you look, it depends. Some people they actually like the the albedo, the light part to be in there a little bit, uh and some people like uh more of that bitterness or less of that bitterness.
+
+[29:07] But if you want it to be if you wanted to make the world's most baller marmalade, like seriously straight up baller marmalade, what I would do is uh peel the uh peel them, right, uh carefully, uh like score and peel them off, then soak the uh peels in a solution of pectin X SPL and water, which you get can you can buy that apparently now at modernistpantry.com. I've never tried that, I have my own supply. But anyway, uh you soak them in like four grams per liter of that stuff, and um then you take a tooth a toothbrush or uh or a scrubby and you just wipe all the albedo off. Gone. Then you can sliver the peels and they're perfect.
+
+[29:45] Right? But they can be long. So normally you can only get thin slicing of perfect peel that way. But you can get kind of like l like larger strips. You can make them whatever is gonna taste good in the marmalade.
+
+[29:55] Uh and then, you know, cook, you can then you can blanch them if you want, if they're too bitter for you, but they probably won't be uh bitter, that is, and then um you can um make your the marmalade uh base separately and then fold in the uh peel afterwards. That's kind of bubble, right? That sounds pretty good. But the question would be, you know, when you use the enzymes, doesn't it take away some of the pectin, which gives makes the marmalade thick. Right.
+
+[30:20] Yeah, well the question is So I'm gonna have to add pectin back in separately, you know, from the you know, like from the box. Yes, you could do that. Um I thought about how much pectin you'd be removing, but you're gonna boil the you're gonna boil the citrus down, and the question is, is there enough in just the regular pulp without the albedo to do it for you? I would bet there is, but if not, you can always build it with a little bit of pectin. I mean, that's where they get it from.
+
+[30:50] You know what I mean? Like they get it from the citrus peel. Either that or from apple. So like most of the commercially available pectin we get's either citrus or apple. I mean, but if you want it, I mean like it's worth getting the extra.
+
+[31:00] I mean, I wouldn't feel bad because no one's gonna know how you did it. You know what I mean? It's gonna be sweet. Okay. Sounds like uh I gotta get my hands on some some uh pectanex here.
+
+[31:12] Yeah, yeah. Uh it's a good start, and plus, you know, then you can use it for the French fry recipes, use it for clarification. I know that most of the clarification stuff that I have uh requires a centrifuge, but I'm working on a new technique. I read a paper on a technique called electroflotation and just flotation in general, where they basically make a little electrolysis setup and they throw it in the bottom of a uh of a a vat of of stuff that's not clarified, and then you turn on the electricity and it makes tiny hydrogen bubbles, and the tiny hydrogen bubbles float up, and as they float up they carry the stuff all of the uh impurities with it so you could uh dope it with SPL and then you can clarify liquids with uh with hydrogen bubbles but I haven't tested it yet. I've built a rig but it's I've been so damn busy I haven't tested it yet.
+
+[31:59] Wow that sounds cool. And that'll be a home setup I can do? Yeah so I'm thinking that I don't know whether I could commercialize that to the new business especially because the people who wrote the paper might already have a patent down on it. I don't know. But it's definitely the kind of thing where you could probably build it for pretty cheap.
+
+[32:15] If it works you could probably build it for pretty cheap. I mean the trick with electroflotation is tiny tiny tiny bubbles. So for instance um I was wondering could you just take an aquarium pump and do it? But the problem is the bubbles in an aquarium pump, even with those little centered stones is just too the bubbles are too large. So the question is how to make tiny tiny bubbles and that's why um electrolysis is good because they use very thin wires.
+
+[32:40] They basically they use a uh the the one that they used in the paper that I read was carbon like a graphite carbon not graphite carbon uh rods and uh a stainless steel top and the stainless steel I was just there it's producing the hydrogen and they use very very fine wires and those very very fine wires made a very fine bubble size and so it didn't really disturb. You don't want turbulence, you just want lots of little bubbles rising. But with the aquarium pump can't you just put on a uh a fit or filter well it's po it's possible. I mean the thing is, in the in one of those, what's happening is it's the bubble the bubble generation is happening from the holes, right? And in in the in the mesh, the bubble generation is happening from the wires itself.
+
+[33:27] So uh the the problem is is could you could you get holes in uh in a porous medium that uh aren't gonna cause bubbles that coalesce right away. Do you know what I'm saying? Whereas with wires, very fine wires can be spaced far enough apart to prevent immediate coalescence of the bubbles. I think that's the issue. Right.
+
+[33:56] I think you want like a constant just upflow of gentle tiny, tiny bubbles for this thing to work. And if you look up on the web, you can look up uh uh you know, if you have access to the the scientific stuff, elect electro flotation is the technique. Okay, electroflication. All right. And uh could I keep um I'm still looking for things that people can do if they don't have a setter fusion.
+
+[34:21] Yeah, that's an expensive item. Yeah, and it's I don't have space. What? I don't have the space. Yeah, exactly.
+
+[34:30] So so this one I'm trying to build one in one of those uh you know, you go to Solo Tab and you buy one of those things that's meant to to uh uh store pasta. I'm trying to build it in one of those, see whether it works. Very narrow kind of contain round container. Yeah, narrow, tall, right? And uh and just you drop it in the bottom and you spell you know, I like it's gonna take a bunch of tests.
+
+[34:53] Like that's that's the kind of thing that if I still had the intern program running at the FCI, I would just have someone do it. But since I'm you know not there every day, I don't have that program running anymore, so I don't have anyone that can do any testing when I'm not there. You know what I mean? So it's just I haven't had time. Oh, is is the school selling Pecan X anymore?
+
+[35:11] Is uh Yeah, I believe uh Erve Molivare, uh M A L I V E R T. Uh so it'll be H Mollyver at French Culinary dot com. And he he still has it, yeah. I just saw it there yesterday. Oh, great.
+
+[35:25] All right. Thanks, Dave. Happy hollow. Hey. Happy holidays, thanks for calling in.
+
+[35:29] Uh, Jack, should we go to our second commercial break? Uh yeah, let's do that. All right, call them all your questions too. 718497, 2128. That's 718497 2128.
+
+[35:46] Five long years, we have been together. Your love and understanding has brought us to stormy weather. I must admit, girl, I haven't always been good. But you stuck by me, just like you said you would. Hey, I know that enough is enough.
+
+[36:11] But you shouldn't be talking about turning loose might be right to see. The wrong decision will spawn hardly. Don't change horses in the middle of a stream. Get it up, get up. That would be an extremely bad call to change your horse in the middle of a stream.
+
+[36:44] Extremely bad call. At least, you know, if you're actually fording a stream. Of course, if the horse was sinking and drowning you, right? Like if the horse was literally dying and sucking you down to the bottom of the river instead of swimming, then maybe a good idea to change the horse in the middle of the stream. Maybe the only choice.
+
+[37:01] Yeah, so I mean I think like they like that phrase like, you know, don't change, Barbara Mint should be uh, unless uh that change is going to prevent you from dying. Of course. Yeah. If if the horse is actually worse than no horse at all, then changing horse is pretty good idea. You know?
+
+[37:17] It's one of those things. Anyway. Uh but you know, I mean, I understand. You don't get rid of an a marginally okay horse. Like if there's like a stellar horse next to you swimming, and you're like, Man, that horse is a badass, and mine is only, you know, kind of okay, then yeah, stay on the okay horse.
+
+[37:31] Do you know what I'm saying? Yeah, absolutely. And whenever I think of this, I always I don't know, I uh I shouldn't I'm not gonna get into politics. Anyway, won't get into politics on the show. Not okay, do it.
+
+[37:39] Okay. So uh back to Pedro and his fish question. Uh by the by the way, uh so we're gonna have one more song going on, right? You're gonna get us one really awesome holiday song for the for the outro check. That was Tower of Power for the last caller.
+
+[37:52] Yeah, yeah, but you're gonna for the last on the way out, are we gonna play like some hardcore Christmas stuff or what? Oh yeah, definitely. Okay, cool. All right. Anyway, Pedro and his fish.
+
+[38:03] Okay. Sometimes when I buy fish, the flesh is extremely soft and the tissue looks like it's falling apart. I know it's not because the fish is old. I know how to judge freshness pretty well. And I'll buy my fish from a small fisherman's club that only sells that day's catch.
+
+[38:17] Also, this seems to happen much more frequently with Atlantic mackerel and bluefish. Do you know why this happens and how to avoid it? I know the fish are caught using nets and not blood out, so could this be related to rigor mortis? Well, Pedro, I bet it is, because I mean, uh we've had this discussion before, but everyone who grew up in the northeast and like hung around with people that fish know that back in the day, uh people didn't like bluefish so much because it didn't keep and it kind of went south fast and the fishes became musk mushy and whatnot. And it's because blues, I don't really know that much about mackerel, but blues are vicious, you know, fighting strong fish.
+
+[38:53] Like when blues are running, uh when blues are running right uh close to the shore, you know, bathers have gotten like bites taken out of their legs. Because blues are vicious. That's why when you're fishing for blues, you use like a steel, uh, you know, a steel leader on it, and it and and people like fishing for blues because they have such good fight. So for their size. So I would bet that they go into a really, really hard rigor, and that that hard rigor is ripping apart the uh, you know, some of the structure of the muscle muscle and it's getting uh mushy.
+
+[39:25] Uh and I know we had a um a listener, and for some reason his name just went straight out of my head, but we had a listener who ran some preliminary tests on bluefish by doing uh ikijime, where the uh we do the spinal cord destruction and you bleed them out properly, and so that the fish were in a side by side. Now he only did one or two samples, but the side by side, the bluefish was significantly better, uh i.e. firmer, uh, when it was killed using uh the Japanese techniques that, you know, uh uh fall under the under the heading of Ikijime, fish killing techniques. Um and that's because, as we said many times, on fish that swim extremely strongly, they go into a hard rigor. If you take a needle and shove it through their spinal cord, uh it stops the messages from going from the spinal cord to the muscles, and therefore it preserves ATP, which is the energy the muscles used to contract, and therefore it delays rigor, and then delayed rigor is a softer rigor.
+
+[40:19] Anyway, so I would bet that that is what's going on. Uh I don't know much about the mackerel, uh, other than I like to eat mackerel. I don't really know much about them from a fishing and swimming perspective. So I I do know that they suffer some of the same problems of uh that all oily fishes uh suffer in terms of uh enzymatic activity. They can be mushy if they're cooked at low temperature because the enzymes in them uh not only the muscles themselves get broken, but the enzymes in the fish keep working uh quite actively uh while it's being cooked at lower temperatures and so they can turn mushy.
+
+[40:55] And I know certain species of mackerel have that problem uh very much. So, anyway, so I don't know whether that's also playing into uh part of it. It's never really listed in the uh those enzymes aren't really listed in uh the bluefish because it's only been recently that people have appreciated the delicious, delicious bluefish. I love bluefish. Uh I think more people are liking blue fish.
+
+[41:15] Jack, do you feel more people are liking bluefish now? Uh yeah, I hear more about it lately. Yeah. It's good stuff. I mean, you either like it or you don't.
+
+[41:23] I like it. Uh anyway, okay. So our buddy Christoph from Polyscience, the people that brought you the immersion circulator, calls in about butternut squash or rodent. Uh hello, Nastasha. I hope all is well.
+
+[41:33] I'm glad you've caught up uh uh with the last few radio shows on iTunes. I have a question I can't find a good answer for. Maybe Dave knows more about it. I've observed that when I cut butternut squash, my skin feels like it is dried out. It's quite aggressive, and I'm not sure if it is actual dehydration or something else.
+
+[41:48] I'm also not clear about the liquid pearls that collect on the butternut squash surface uh after a few minutes. It says see attached picture, but I don't have it. Sorry, Christoph, I don't have the picture. Uh, how does it happen that it collects in pearls like that? Is that liquid responsible for this dehydration?
+
+[42:02] I wonder if this liquid is used in any products like cosmetics. Have a great holiday season. Okay. So I went on my scientific uh web search engines that I steal and uh typed uh butternut squash and then a host of other things. And I couldn't find anything specific, except uh there are certain people that get what's called a uh uh protein contact dermatitis uh from many things, uh one of them being butternut squash.
+
+[42:29] So it is known that there are certain people that have uh skin sensitivity to uh butternut squash. I was doing more research, and butternut squash are part of a larger group, including cucumbers and all other squash and melons and stuff called uh cucribits. And um, they have uh can have lots of crazy things, uh flowing saps and whatnot flowing through the phloem, which is in the stems, but also I think uh to some extent they can have stuff flowing through uh the the fruits themselves, and I believe they would concentrate somewhat towards the skin side of it. Now, uh I was able to find some strange sugar compound components that are in pumpkins and and other uh strange kind of defense stuff, but nothing definitive. I would guess that if your hand is drying out like that, like the same way it does, for instance, if you're shelling a lot of shrimp, that you're getting some sort of uh either protein or a hydrocoloid that is uh basically not dissolving away on your hand and drying fairly quickly into a foam.
+
+[43:34] That's what I'm guessing. But I would love to hear if anyone knows anything more about it. Uh I wasn't able to do it reading the first you know, 10 to 15 papers where I typed in, you know, uh sap and or latex and or uh hydrochyloid or dermatitis and butternut squash and or cucurbit. But it's an interesting thing. Fine, it's a known fact.
+
+[43:56] I mean, I found uh an e-gullet uh, you know, link with someone, and if someone on the e-gold thing said, well, it's just starch, not starch, starch isn't gonna do that to you. But um anyway, it's interesting question. It's gotta be some wacky hydrochyloid or hydrochaloid protein mixture uh that's coming out of there. So anyway. We'll look into it more.
+
+[44:16] Uh you know, that's one of those things where uh I'm gonna have an answer for you in a year and a half because I'm gonna meet someday I will meet the butternut squash scientist and I will ask them what the hell the deal is and they'll tell me. Anyway. Uh Gabriel writes in, I hope this is the correct email address. It is. Um this question relates to an absurd the absurd price of sauce funnels.
+
+[44:36] Uh it's actually not a thing I want. Uh well, because he says he doesn't cook at that level. But Gabriel, once you own one of these, and by the way, a soft funnel that we're talking about, sauce funnel sauce gun, is basically a funnel, preferably metal, that has a little stick in the center of it that you lift up and stuff comes out of it. And it's one of those things that, yeah, you don't need it, but man, are those things a joy. They're just a they're a complete joy.
+
+[44:59] But they're absurdly priced. Absurdly priced. Uh so anyway, so this relates to the absurd price of sauce funnels. Um, so I wondered whether there wasn't a less expensive place to get a sauce funnel than JB Prince. Now listen, before we go any further, I know the uh the funnels at JB Prints are expensive, but JB Prince is selling a an expensive brand of those funnels because they only carry kind of the top quality stuff.
+
+[45:23] Here's the deal with JB Prince. And yes, it's true, I know them all, I like them, and they've given me some stuff before. But uh their stuff isn't cheap, but I I don't think that they they're charging they're charg they're not getting rich off of it. They're just carrying high quality brands. Right?
+
+[45:40] Stuff that you can't normally get in bulk from places, and so the price the prices are uh a little bit higher. But it's not like they're it's not like they're uh you know making money hand over fist with huge margins. They're just not. Okay, anyway. Um, well there is an easier uh sorry, there is a uh uh one that he saw on what uh on uh QVC that was much cheaper, right?
+
+[46:05] Uh and I looked on Amazon and there was a sauce funnel on Amazon that was about half the price of the one that you get at JB Prince. However, the one review I saw on it uh was basically that this sucker doesn't work and then go get the expensive one, which is from uh Matfer. Uh and so, you know, he's wondering how hard could it possibly be to build one of these things with a metal funnel, uh a screen, it actually doesn't need a screen, and some sort of device to control the aperture. Uh I'll tell you what, I wouldn't want to build it for 150 bucks. Could I build it?
+
+[46:36] Yes. I could go the problem metal funnels themselves are expensive, especially when they go down to the thing. So yes, I own a welder and a plasma cutter and a drill press and all that stuff. So I could go make one, but I definitely wouldn't want to for a hundred hundred and fifty bucks. But uh something um uh he writes in Gabriel writes it's interesting is if you search for results like sauce gun DIY plans, you come upon DIY weapons of the Libyan rebels.
+
+[47:02] And if you looked it up on the Atlantic uh monthly website, they have a link to all of these pictures of these like literally like dudes in workshops building weaponry to uh to take back the country from Gaddafi. It's pretty interesting, pretty interesting website. Anyway, go check it off. Okay. Uh Monica writes in on milkshakes.
+
+[47:24] Uh first of all, I love cooking issues. Keep up the good work, thank you. Uh anyway, I've never written to you before, but I thought you might find this recipe interesting in quotation marks. I literally laughed out loud when I realized uh that these people are actually making a buffalo chicken milkshake. Although it sounds totally gross, I'm thinking the idea of savory milkshakes might be worth checking out, like a frozen bloody merry or something.
+
+[47:42] Uh I saw this recipe on BuzzFeed, but I can't find the link to the article now. But here's a link to the video of them making it. Um thought you and other readers might enjoy it. Uh thanks and take care, Monica. Okay.
+
+[47:54] So what this is is uh, and I haven't seen this episode, even though I love Thurry Rock, is that Liz Lemon from 30 Rock is uh passing some sort of a fast food establishment. And the sign says, ba you know, it's back, the Buffalo Chicken Milkshake. And so this guy, which he calls himself a super fan, is on this video on Vimeo, I think, or no, YouTube, and uh he's uh sitting with one of the writers from 30 Rock and he's making her a buffalo chicken milkshake. Now, if you haven't seen the video, here's what he does. He takes milk and cream, right, and then uh see milk cream, uh blue cheese, blends it, adds uh tomato sauce and buffalo uh sauce, buffalo chicken wing sauce, and Worcestershire sauce, right?
+
+[48:40] And then puts it in the pan, and much like the granito we were talking about earlier, puts it in the freezer and stirs it occasionally uh until it turns into an icy creamy thing, and then uh blends it in a blender uh and then uh serves it as a milkshake and it garnishes it with a uh chicken strip and celery. Okay, now let's just leave aside whether or not this thing's gonna like whether or not this is a good idea. Let's leave that aside. Jack, what's your call? Good idea or bad idea about it, yeah.
+
+[49:07] Yeah, agreed. Yeah. So anyway, so let's leave this aside. This is a here are the errors that are made from a cooking perspective in this video. Uh first of all, you can tell that the texture of this thing is not going to be right.
+
+[49:21] It's not an ice cream texture. And the reason why, and it's not gonna be a milkshake texture either, it looks greeny and gloppy. And the reason why is because there's no sugar in it, right? Now, if you want to go savory, right, you still need something to take the place of sugar. Otherwise, the texture is never going to be milkshake.
+
+[49:39] It's gonna be greeny and gloppy, like it is in the video, you can see it. So, what this person needs to do is get a hold of some glucose syrup, right? Which ha it has a lot of the properties of sugar in terms of texture modifying for ice creams, but does not have the sweetness, right? So this is the first straight-up error that uh is being made in this, is that there's no sugar to modify uh the textures. Now, if I wanted to do it and I didn't have a home uh ice cream machine, which I don't, right, I would uh whip it with a whipping agent, uh then set it in the free uh freezer, then blend it uh with the military stuff you can get it.
+
+[50:15] But you'd have to have something like glucose syrup. There's a second huge error that uh he makes, and this is the one that really is gonna uh um shows he's not paying attention to the labels on his ingredients, and that is he says that his uh thing, because it it had remembered it has Worcestershire sauce in it. He says that his milkshake is still vegetarian until he puts the chicken strip in. Now, I don't want to go like any of you guys who are vegetarians out there, uh Worcestershire sauce is not vegetarian because the p one of the prime ingredients in Worcestershire sauce is anyone, anyone, and chovies, right? In fact, I just did a clarified uh uh clean you know, centrif centrifically clarified uh Worcestershire sauce like two weeks ago, and all of the anchovy settles out at the bottom and it basically tastes like straight fish paste, the stuff at the bottom that settles out in the clarified Worcestershire sauce.
+
+[51:08] So Worcestershire sauce is definitely not vegetarian. Now, you can buy crappy fake Worcestershire sauce, right, which I do not recommend at all. And fake Worcestershire can be vegetarian because it doesn't have anchovies in it. But if you use honest to God Worcestershire sauce, which they were using on the video, it is no longer vegetarian. So take that for whatever it is, right?
+
+[51:30] Right. Anyway. Okay. Matthew writes in on cheese. Hey Nastasha, uh, as I've written in before, I'm working with melted cheese sauce, uses sodium citrate and aorta carrageenin along with cheese, water, and beer.
+
+[51:41] Sodium citrate is what's called a melting salt, by the way, and it helps uh maintain a smooth curve when something's melted so it doesn't get grainy. Okay. Uh I got the recipe from Nathan Miraville via the internet. Uh his recipe is for use on mac and cheese. I'm using the cheese sauce as a topping for a sandwich.
+
+[51:57] I melt the cheese and hold it in a steam table. It works quite well, though it does tend to thicken over time. I fix this by adding liquid and then adjusting the seasoning. My question is in reference to the aortic carrageenan in this recipe. Uh in the Miraval recipe, he melts the cheese with uh the chemicals, sets it in a block, and then partially freezes it to make it easier to grade, and subsequently melt it into the cooked macaroni and cooking water.
+
+[52:17] I'm unsure if the role of caragin is simply to make the cheese more stable for freezing uh and keeping the shape of the block, or if it is to do with the mouthfeel or texture of the melted sauce. Uh as I'm not very familiar with either either uh ingredient in this recipe, I was hoping you could shed some light on on the properties on why they're there and perhaps the purpose of using carrageenin. Well, uh thanks, Matthew. So rather than uh having my own speculation, which I have, uh I wrote Chris Young an email last night. Uh Chris Young is uh, you know, one of the authors of the book and worked on this recipe.
+
+[52:46] Uh and so uh here's you know what might as well get the answer from the guy, right? Anyway, so he wrote back and he said the short answer is that melting salts uh act to stabilize molten cheese emotions by uh cheating calcium uh so is cheating or does he mean qating? Uh calcium solubilizing and dispersing the proteins, hydrating, it's probably an iPhone problem. Uh solubilizing and dispersing the proteins, hydrating and swelling the proteins and emulsifying the fat. Uh you can use only melting sauce, but older cheeses tend to have brittle texture.
+
+[53:16] This is because aging breaks proteins down to shorter chains to have less interaction with each other and thus less elastic elasticity in the slice. Adding iota carrageening gives back some of the elasticity and moisture holding ability uh when restructuring a fairy mature cheese. If you want to skip the iota, just blend in younger, milder cheeses. Uh stirred uh curd cheese with three to month, three to six months of age is a good choice. So uh it's basically there so that you can use more intensely flavored, more mature cheeses, and still have some elasticity.
+
+[53:46] So if you're using a young cheese, uh Chris Young, our friend, who's done a show, uh says you can leave it out. Okay. Uh Chris writes in uh lactic acid uh with a lact another lactic acid and a cheese question. Uh beer, dave, and hammer. Um okay, are there any tips that you might throw at us for using malic, ascorbic citric, and lactic acid in the kitchen?
+
+[54:09] And I I don't know where he's uh uh you know he is it I wonder whether Chris is a man or a woman. What do you think? Chris with a K, Jack, man or woman. Ooh, with a K. That's a wild card.
+
+[54:18] I'm not sure. Yeah. Yeah, that's a tough one. I'll say I'll say guy, though. Yeah?
+
+[54:24] You're going with Chris Christopherson? Yeah. Carlos is going with woman, though. Yeah? So we've got a 50-50 split.
+
+[54:31] Anyway. Okay. Um, we generally cook vegan uh kinds of food. So a nostalgia on an airplane somewhere is making her vegan face. Uh but not that raw uh I shouldn't say it on air, sugar honey iced tea.
+
+[54:44] Not that raw sugar honey iced tea. And I promise we stay away from sprouts. Good, because sprouts, as we all know, it tastes like poison. Uh but um Chris is interested in making cheese uh with with nut milks and convinced that lactic acid is the key flavor component that's missing. Yeah, sure she uh he or she knows it's just one go easy on me.
+
+[55:02] Uh mostly interested in doing this from the perspective of trying to figure out what makes some of the distinctive flavors other than spec uh specific bacteria, etc. Okay. So uh it's true that uh lactic acid is one of the characteristic uh flavors in many, many cheeses, um, and you and and cured meats for that matter, um, and pickles, uh, and sauerkraut uh and kimchi. And you can buy lactic acid and you can spike things with it to make it taste more like that. Uh and I've done this many times.
+
+[55:31] But as you note, it's only one of the many flavor components that's uh present. So a lot of it is protein breakdown, and uh and and a lot of the for instance, if you ever had a cheese that's so sharp that it like it pops the the taste buds, like I like I have this like harbor reaction to uh certain cheeses that I happen to love, so I eat it anyway, where my taste buds literally pop out, and you can see them, they look like little mushrooms that are exploding on my tongue. And um, and those are because of fat breakdown products. So you have uh, you know, lipid breakdown products, you have protein breakdown products, uh, and you have other like bacterially uh produced things like lactic acid. So it's just a total smorgasbord conglomeration of different uh flavors.
+
+[56:16] And you can buy, uh, for instance, if you put fats in, you can buy enzymes that will enhance uh the lipid breakdown in nuts uh and cause those certain things to those flavors to happen. I don't know whether they're gonna taste good or not, but that's definitely something you you can you can do. But if you experiment with this, uh, you know, please tell us. A scorbic, for the other one, that's lactic. For a scorbic, I mean I use that whenever I'm juicing.
+
+[56:42] Like whenever I'm juicing something, uh I got a score big sitting around because that's the one that stops things from turning, uh, you know, stops things from oxidizing, because that's like you know, uh vitamin C, it's an antioxidant. Uh malic, I use uh a mixture of malloc and citric, two parts citric to one part malloc, as my go-to uh acidity corrector because that mixture, two parts uh citric and one part malloc, is basically the main acids in lime juice, and since lime juice is what God put on the earth to correct acidity with, uh, if you don't want to use lime juice because it's not going to keep or it's going to be heated a lot, something like that, a slight pinch of those two acids in that ratio will uh will bring about uh the desired the desired acidity. So I always have those things on hand and and I I use them all the time. Okay. Alright, Dave, we've got to wrap it up.
+
+[57:29] Alright, I'm almost done with this in my last question. Okay. We good? Do you have five minutes or two minutes? Yep.
+
+[57:34] Okay. Uh also an unrelated question. Would you be willing, or have you ever posted pictures of your home kitchen somewhere? I know you must have a somewhat small kitchen, and I'm interested in your use of space. We are in uh Los Angeles in a smallish condo, and space is always an issue.
+
+[57:48] Uh the kitchen's taking over uh the living room. And I wonder if you how you saw some of these issues that we run into, and I'm sure you are more creative about this than we are. I don't know about that. Our solutions often just involve a lot of swearing, but perhaps yours do as well. Well, well, Chris, swearing always works.
+
+[58:02] I find that if you curse at something enough and sometimes punch and hit it, as long as it's an object, not a person, that you can usually get it to do what you want. But I, in fact, if you go on uh on the Google and you search uh New York magazine, uh Dave Arnold Kitchen, there is a picture of my kitchen. Um it's bigger than it's bigger than it should be. My apartment is 800 square feet, my kitchen is 200 of that, but it is pretty compact. I have a six-foot sink with like sliding boards and all that.
+
+[58:31] But there's a there's a rundown of it there. I'd be happy to talk about it in excruciating detail uh maybe the next time around when we have more time. But on the way out, I do want to say this. Uh happy holiday to uh everyone out there. We're gonna see you.
+
+[58:46] We'll be back uh next Tuesday, I think, as scheduled, right? Unless Harris Radio is not going to be working next week. Are they Jack? Are we on for next week? We're not, we're off next week.
+
+[58:54] So we'll see you guys. And the week after that is what? 2012, yeah. No, it'll be uh January 2nd or 3rd, I think. All right.
+
+[59:04] Well, listen, I'm gonna see all you guys in the new year, and before I go, I want to say that I can officially announce now that uh we're gonna be starting a bar concept in the back of Sombar, uh, and it's probably the official date is gonna be sometime in mid-January. It's gonna be called Booker and Dax at Sombar, and it's going to be using all of the techniques that we've been jabbering about for years. We're gonna use the red hot poker, I'm gonna use uh some new carbonation equipment I'm building. We're gonna center fuzz there. I'm gonna be doing legal rotary evaporation using liquid nitrogen so that we can do water-based distillations, it tastes good.
+
+[59:43] We're gonna pull out all of those stops and we're gonna get it going in the back. Uh in uh it's gonna be in night times in the back of Sarmbar. That's awesome. And look for it, Booker and Ducks at Sandbar. Happy holidays, cooking issues.
+
+[1:00:11] Merry Christmas baby. Now I'm living in paradise. Well, I'm feeling my fat. Got good music on my radio.
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+[0:03] Broadcasting live from Roberta's in Bushwick, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. The following program has been brought to you by Kane Vineyard and Winery. Kane Vineyard and Winery supports Heritage Radio and the growing movement to change how Americans eat and how we think about our planet. For more information, visit www.cane5.com.
+
+[0:43] Hello, happy new year and welcome to Cooking Issues. I'm Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live every Tuesday from the Heritage Radio Network in the back of Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn. Joined as usual in the studio with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. How are you doing? Good.
+
+[0:56] How are you? Doing all right. Uh how was your uh Christmas there? I can hear you crinkling up your bag, by the way. Fine.
+
+[1:01] Yeah, yes. How was yours? Uh good. Good. I was in uh up at my uh at uh my mom's house there in uh in Westchester, just north of the city.
+
+[1:11] Gave my uh my kids the crazy train set that uh you know was my dad's and given to me. Then I gave it to my kids. They seem to enjoy it, you know. Oh gauge the whole deal, Christmas tree, blah, blah, blah. Uh nice.
+
+[1:23] Yeah, nice, right? Mm-hmm. Yeah. You anything special? Anything?
+
+[1:26] Nothing special. Nothing? Wow. Wow, that's a depressing. No, it was fine.
+
+[1:31] Nothing special. Nothing I want to get into. Wow. All right. Well, anyway, calling your questions to 718 497-2128.
+
+[1:37] That's 718497-2128. All right, let's get oh, by the way. I'm not sure if we're gonna have a show next week because I will be in Sweden in uh and on Tuesday. I don't know exactly where I'm gonna be, so we'll have to figure that out. But uh, I would love to do a live call in from Sweden where it's dark all the time.
+
+[1:56] And uh, you know, uh I'm the only idiot. Actually, I'm not the only idiot, like a huge uh host, absolute vodka is sending me over, and uh basically uh a huge host of like some of the best known and uh nicest people actually in the bar business are going over there, Dale de Graff, Audrey Saunders, Jimmy and blah blah, etc. etcetera, etc. And for some reason I got put on that list, like they accidentally emailed it to me, and then when I replied yes, they they were like, Oh crap. And then they had you know they they couldn't rescind their offer.
+
+[2:20] Anyway, my wife bought me the uh the butt-kicking uh Canada goose uh like giant South Pole style parka to go with it, which is awesome because uh I get to stay warm and apparently a goose dies, which is good. Everyone knows Canadian geese. Well, they don't actually make that a Canadian geese, but is there any bird on Earth less pleasant than the than the Canadian goose? I really like them. What what?
+
+[2:41] Wait, you don't like biscuits, but you like Canadian geese? What is it? They're really pretty, I think. Pretty they poop if you've never lived on the east coast. No, no, I've stepped in their poop, but I think they're really pretty.
+
+[2:50] Have you ever been close to one? There's a phone call. There okay, I'm gonna take the phone call, but they're the Canadian geese are the meanest, meanest creatures in the world. They're so mean. So mean.
+
+[3:01] Anyway, caller, you're on the air. Hello. Oh, I guess we lost him. Oh man, so quick. So quick.
+
+[3:10] What happened? I don't know. I think it might be Matthew with stage fright. Anyway, hopefully they'll they'll call back. Anyway, we do have a question in uh from Matthew saying, I hope your uh 2012 is going well and uh no Mayan apocalypses have occurred yet, but there's still hope for the Mayan apocalypse.
+
+[3:24] I'll tell you something. Let's say the Mayan apocalypse does happen, right? That's kind of good news. It means that there is sort of something else out there, right? I mean, if if you were an agnostic or an atheist and the Mayan apocalypse comes true, well, that's proof that there's something out there.
+
+[3:37] That's good news, right? Gotta put a positive spin on things, Nastashi, even an apocalypse. No? But then you're not gonna know if it existed when as soon as you go. No, but that's the point.
+
+[3:47] If there if there is, it means there's a something higher. There's something out there. There's something. No one will relish in that fact, I mean. No, except me.
+
+[3:54] Anyway. Matthew has two questions in. The first one, Matthew's going to Colombia. I'm going to spend a week in Cartagena this January. I wanted to ask you about food recommendations.
+
+[4:04] I'm a huge f a huge fruit fan, like you are. Well, it says like you two are, but really I forced Nastasha to do it. She hates fruit. I'm kidding. She actually does like fruit, right?
+
+[4:12] Something she likes. She gotta like something. Anyway. If you have any specifics on fruit to try, that would be cool. Otherwise, if you have any specific dishes, seafood or ingredients maybe worth bringing home to look out for in Colombia, please let me know.
+
+[4:23] I'm not sure if you've been to Cartagena specifically, but if you have, do you know of any restaurants, fish kiosks or dive bars worth trying? Well, uh, I was only in Cartagena uh for one day, uh, and the only real restaurant I ate in was uh a friend of mine, Danielle Castaño, uh, who also does a razor shiny knife here in Brooklyn. Uh he has I don't know if he was even doing that anymore because he's got like eight billion restaurants in Colombia, but his restaurant in Columbia in uh Cartagena is called uh Vera or Vera. Uh it's in the uh Hotel Chirasi, and it's like really cool. It's all white, it's got a waterfall on the inside.
+
+[4:53] It's kind of indoor outdoor, which is kind of the coolest thing about uh Cartagena, but that's really the only place I ate and I can I can recommend it. I recommend going there. Uh I didn't go to we went to like one or two bot dive bars, but we almost got the crap eaten out of us by the locals, and so we ended up leaving. I don't remember the names of them. It was very late anyway.
+
+[5:07] Okay. Uh on fruit. Now I know I've mentioned these before uh on the on the air, but you you have to have when you're down there, Lulo. Lulo is and they make a drink out of Lulo. Lulo has an amazing, you blend it into a juice, and when you shake it into a drink, it makes a nice kind of creamy head.
+
+[5:22] So you gotta have a Lulo, which is very uh aesthetic. Uh Uchuva, which are basically like uh gooseberries, but they're really good and it's and they're they're almost free. It's like they come on the table uh when you you know when you come mango stines, you get great mango stems there, and they're not from there, but they're delicious. Uh guanabana is maybe my favorite fruit in like the world. You can get really great ones there.
+
+[5:42] Granite, they have many different kind of passion fruit variants. Uh Grenadilla is probably the most favorite one down there. Um, delicious, and cuba, which is another kind of a banana-shaped passion fruit, but smaller, also delicious. You want to try tomate de arbol, which is kind of bitter at the skin, but very interesting, uh, etc. etc.
+
+[5:59] etc. Another one, pataya, which is their dragon fruit, which is actually delicious as opposed to the dragon fruits we get here, which are, in my opinion, without use. Yeah? Okay. Yeah.
+
+[6:08] Yeah. Nastash's like, I don't care. I don't care. Okay. Two.
+
+[6:11] Low temperature, you know, it's it's nice to come back after you know a break. It's a new year, new everything, and it's good to know that some things don't change, like Nastasha not giving a crap about what I'm talking about. I am. No, I was thinking about how your kids yesterday asked me, are dragons related to dragon fruit? And I was like, Yeah, they're obsessed with this kind of relation, like word relation.
+
+[6:30] You're like, well, the words are really good. Yeah. Yeah. But the fruits themselves are not. Seeing how dragon fruit is real.
+
+[6:37] Dragon fruit's real. Dragons not so much. Okay. Uh Matthew's second question on low temperature duck breasts. I recently became the proud father of a poly science sous vide professional circulator.
+
+[6:46] Congratulations. Uh Christmas present, maybe? Maybe. Maybe. Uh I tried out a Muscovy duck breast at eight uh 58 degrees uh Celsius, which is like 136 or 137 uh Fahrenheit, for about an hour, sorry, 156, 157, 157, somewhere in there.
+
+[7:04] Uh for about an hour uh and a half. It came out tasty but a bit chewy. With such a lean cut uh without a huge amount of connective tissue, would cooking for a longer time yield a more tender result. I was also wondering when you do do duck breasts in a circulator, do you render the fat before or after the bath? Thanks, Matthew.
+
+[7:19] Okay, I always render my duck breasts after I cook them. Some people do a sear before and after. With duck breasts, I'm really just trying to cook the breast through, and then afterwards I sear it traditionally, basically in a pan to get that nice crisp duck breast. The modernist cuisine uh folks, they do a sear both before and after, and they use you know what they call cryo searing, which is like kind of a dry ice bag that they put the duck breast on to freeze that portion solid so you don't overcook the meat. Um I basically just put the duck breast in a bag, squish it very flat against the table, the skin side, so that it renders nicely after it's cooked, because if you just put it in the bag all willy-nilly, the skin will be bent and it won't render properly against the pan, okay, because the st because cooked meat is stiffer.
+
+[8:00] Uh then I try to cook it for the shortest possible amount of time, like 45 minutes. The problem, um cooking it longer will break down some more stuff, but it actually, to my to my taste, tends to make it more mushy, not necessarily more tender, just more mushy. And certain duck breasts, and I can't remember whether Muscovy does it, get a little bit um livery also if they're if they cook for a very long period of time. You could try. Some people I know do cook duck breasts for a long time and they seem to like it.
+
+[8:27] I don't. I like the duck breast cooked at like um 50 uh at like 57 actually Celsius is where I cook it, but it'll probably be a little tough in that range, or 58 if it's a tough breast for about 45 minutes to an hour. Try cooking one longer. I don't have too much experience with the muscovy breasts. I do most of my tests on the pecking duck uh breast.
+
+[8:48] Um, but I don't know. Again, I I hate to say don't do it uh because some people really like duck breasts when it's cooked longer and it will break it down further. Don't go any higher on on temperature. Usually if a duck breast is tough at fifty seven, I say go to 58 Celsius uh because that's going to take away a little of the squashiness the same way that if you have a skirt steak, you take it up one degree, it'll get rid of a little of the squash. So you could try to go to 59, but that seems way too high to me.
+
+[9:11] Maybe dial back to 57. I I wish I could give a better recommendation here because just what you're writing in to me is not my normal uh experience for what happens with duck breasts. Anyway, sorry about that. Uh two, Kurt writes in from Washington, DC. Uh, why is whole wheat pasta so terrible?
+
+[9:28] Do you agree, Nastasha? Yeah. You hate it, right? Yeah. Well, first of all, Nastasha, uh a hater of many things.
+
+[9:34] One of the things I think she hates most is kind of poorly done pasta. But she is a pasta lunatic, so much so that even I, who love pasta and used to make pasta uh basically three or four times a week, cook pasta quite often. She assumes that I dislike pasta because I don't appear to like it as much as she does, right? Yes. And you often tell me we're not the same person.
+
+[9:54] Yeah, we're not the same person, that's true. Uh and so you uh but you also hate the whole wheat pasta. So do I. Yeah, Jack, you hate as well? Yeah.
+
+[10:02] And what are your reasons for the hatred? I don't know. It's the texture and exactly the texture. I actually don't mind the the actual flavor of it so much uh if it's done properly, as long as it hasn't gone rancid. Uh but uh yeah, the texture is no good.
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+[10:17] You Nastasha? Yeah. Uh there's a uh rice pasta out there, which is dreadful. If you try that one, oh dreadful, just awful. I mean, look, rice noodles are great when it's supposed to be a rice noodle in an Asian dish, but if you're trying to pretend that it's Italian pasta, it's just horrible, right?
+
+[10:31] Yeah. Uh and there's a corn pasta, also, uh, Jack, you wouldn't approve from a texture standpoint, but I actually kind of enjoy it. If you don't think about it as pasta. If you think about it as like the cor a corn noodle, it's uh actually kind of good. Anyway, uh what Kurt writes in is uh why is whole wheat pasta so terrible?
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+[10:47] This is a serious question. I love pasta, as does apparently uh Nastasha and Jack. But my wife and mother regularly try to convince me that I should be eating Ronzoni Healthy Harvest, Berea Plus, is it pronounced Borilla or Borilla? Borilla. Barilla?
+
+[11:01] Like gorilla? Borilla Plus or some other healthier product, healthier in quotes. And by the way, I agree, like health. I hate you know what people think that like you need to be like if you eat whole wheat, you're suddenly healthier. Like we're not the most over uh we're we have so much uh an over soup superabundance of nutrition uh in our diets.
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+[11:19] Anyway, okay. Uh I like the fact that healthier is in quotes, even though my wife uh always smacks me in the face when I put quotes around something and you know, if I put quotes anyway, whatever. Uh these products are terrible. Partially it's that the product itself tastes awful, and part of it is that it mocks me by reminding me of actual delicious pasta. The process of eating it is like chomping on raw field corn while staring at a stack of fresh corn tortillas.
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+[11:43] It is entirely unsatisfying. When I've had to cook with the stuff, I simply tried to hide it, preparing dishes with strong flavors like Asian peanut sauces. But can the product itself be made better? And Nastasha hates peanut sauces, by the way, hates them anyway. Uh is there a good way to make improved pasta?
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+[11:58] That is, are there pastas with lower glycemic indexes or more protein that are culinarily worthwhile? Well, no. Uh I mean the issue is is that uh wheat, the reason why wheat is so awesome is because wheat is awesome. And it it's the gluten in wheat that gives it that kind of that awesome texture that we associate with uh with pasta. And when you add the bran uh from you know, and all the other stuff that goes into a whole wheat uh pasta, then uh those things tend to um what's the word I'm looking for?
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+[12:29] Not interrupt, but uh interfere with the gluten matrix and make the texture not as good. In addition, they have fat in them, uh which tends to go rancid, so if it's stored for a long period of time, you're gonna get rancidity uh in them. So there's all uh a bunch of associated problems with going whole wheat on pasta. Now, if you were gonna make your own whole wheat pasta, you could get a whole wheat fairly soft flour that is very, very finely ground, that doesn't taste like sawdust, for instance, uh chipati flour or something like this, that is quite good in something like a biscuit, make sure it's extraordinarily fresh. Then I would dope it with uh vital wheat gluten to try and add more gluten to it, try and get some more snap.
+
+[13:10] And then I would uh add uh consway, which is a little bit of an alkaline uh uh powder, or you could even uh add some baking soda to increase the alkalinity. Uh baking soda is not really strong enough. You want to add something like sodium carbonate, not sodium bicarbonate, or just get consuate at your Asian grocery. This will strengthen the uh the gluten network even fur fur uh further and give it a snap. It will give it a little bit of an alkaline taste, but that's kind of nice in certain applications.
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+[13:35] Maybe it could be nice in the Italian thing. And maybe that would be enough to get some of the snap back. What do you think, Nastasha? Sure. Anyway, give it a shot, give us a ring.
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+[13:42] Uh caller, you're on the air. Hey Dave, how are you doing? Howdy. This is Matthew, actually, you just answered a couple of my questions before. Nice.
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+[13:51] Were you the caller on the line that we it got dropped by mistake? Yeah, I got disconnected. Oh, alright, good. So at least we didn't lose you permanently. What's all right.
+
+[13:58] Happy New Year, by the way. What's up? Happy New Year to you. Actually, I got a uh a small pork shouldered rose that I want to throw in my circulator right now. I just uh browned it I was about to throw it in.
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+[14:12] Um I've done beef short ribs before at like forty eight hours for um at about fifty eight feet and I I loved them. They came out great. I haven't found much information on uh pork shoulder. All right. There's good news and b good news and bad news on the pork shoulder.
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+[14:31] Anytime you're cook doing a low temperature cook on something that contains multiple muscles in it and pork shoulder is a prime example certain muscles are going to be perfect at the end of the cook time and other muscles aren't. So the muscles in the pork shoulder that have more connective tissue in them are going to be really good when they're cooked in a very similar way to a short rib. So uh like a um you know like 48 hours at like uh or you could do like probably 36 hours at like 60 degrees something in there in that range which is 140 somewhere in that range for a pork shoulder is going to be good. And and all of the muscles that contain connective tissue are going to be good right there. Do you know what I mean?
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+[15:13] Yeah this uh I I took a look at the rose it's pretty small and it all looks like well marbled like pretty much you know it's it's small it's about uh five inches across I think maybe a little smaller and uh they all look good they all look like the right right muscles so uh yeah too much short rib. Yeah but a little higher people don't like to see their people don't like to see their pork too pinked out on them and unless unless you cure it with an instacure beforehand so in which case they don't notice because they can't tell. Uh but you um yeah I would go uh like up in the sixty degree range, like between sixty and sixty's still gonna be quite pink, so you're gonna put a nice sear on it. If you're not, you can go all the way up to sixty two. I wouldn't go above sixty two right?
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+[15:56] It depends on your customer i or your family or whatever. If you if if it's just for me, actually, but uh it tastes good at 60, but it's it's still kind of it's gonna be kind of soft and it's gonna be pink. So if that's a problem for you visually, then go higher all the way up to 62. Or you could like I say, you could put a hard sear on it. You'll notice if there are some muscles that didn't have a lot of connective tissue in it, they will appear at uh at this point to be a little bit fibery.
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+[16:21] They'll be tender and they won't be dry, but they they'll be a little fibried. So when you when you do it, just you know, t look keep a lookout for that just in case you notice it. All right. Uh another question on the same subject. If I was breaking down a you know, whole pork shoulder and I I I I wanted to cook it, you know, in in the circulator.
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+[16:39] How would I, you know, I just look for the muscles that appear to have more um connective tissue or marbling kind of, or is that yeah. So like I'll give you one that I can visualize in my head, so therefore I can tell you is uh on a uh on pork belly. If you get the whole pork belly, almost all of it is good, but there's that one muscle that runs in the opposite direction from the most in the pork belly that looks like a little oval on the top of the pork. That muscle, if you look at that, it doesn't have any sort of connective tissue on the inside, and then that muscle itself on its own is fairly tender. That one doesn't respond to low temperature cooking for a long time very well, to give you an example.
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+[17:17] All right. Thank you very much, babe. Thank you. All right, right in, tell us how it works. All right, bye.
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+[17:24] Have a good day. All right. All right, we're gonna go to our first commercial break. Come back, call your questions to 718497-2128. That's 718497-2128 cooking issues ready or not you might come you can hide gonna find you and keep you happy of not give a co you can hide gonna love you and make you love me oh baby hey baby because I gotta like where you go my heart's gonna blow baby hey baby you can't hide forever ready or not and welcome back to Cooking Issues Jack what song was that the Delphonics nice nice ready or not nice and we have a caller caller you are on the air Hey how's it going?
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+[18:36] It's Brian Hey what's up How you doing? Um listen I'm going to New York I'm I'm coming later in the week and I wanted to uh see what you and Nastasha thought about um restaurants to visit some some uh stores I should be going to to uh pick up some um some fun fun stuff all right so uh what kind of okay well tell you where I shop and Nastasha'll tell you tell you where she shops if you like Italian food do you like Italian food? Of course okay you go to Di Polo's but budget DiPalos is like the Italian market it's on uh Grand Street and Mott uh but budget some time because it's gonna take forever. If you're lucky you'll get one of the family members like Louie or Sal or Marie or or Renee, who's actually not a family member but is awesome, and it's kind of one of the gems of New York City. Uh I've been going, I don't know, mm well over a decade.
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+[19:26] Well, well well over a decade. Uh but that's uh that's a great place. Uh if you want kitchen equipment, you're gonna go check out JB Prince, which is like it's in like 31st to 32nd Street, uh, just on the east side. It's on the 11th floor. It's like a jewelry box of like crazy awesome equipment.
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+[19:41] You're gonna want to check out. Um you're gonna want to check out for cookbooks, Kitchen Arts and Letters, which is way uptown uh in the 90s. It's the best cookbook store I've ever been in. And um the people who run it know uh so much about cookbooks that you will be embarrassed if you don't actually buy from them if you sneak off and buy it on Amazon instead because they're worth supporting. Um what do you think for what do you think, Nastasha, for restaurants?
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+[20:07] Um main ones that you always mention. Well, you mentioned some. You know, you always talk about Dell Post on WD 50 and uh and and milk bar, but uh you know, everybody knows those. But how about some that that that are a little off the radar? Hmm.
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+[20:26] I'm gonna have to have Nastasha think about she's gonna think about that for a minute and have an actual response instead of just saying, Why don't you talk about it? Which I could say myself. I don't need to ask you to ask me to talk about it anyway. Um while while she's thinking about that, uh what when are you coming? What dates?
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+[20:41] Um I'm uh I'm coming tomorrow and I'm there for a week and a half. Oh, yeah, yeah. Just gonna miss when theoretically, I'm not allowed to announce anything, but theoretically, when our bar is gonna open. Yeah. Oh, I'm gonna miss it.
+
+[20:54] Yeah, just just barely. But the uh bars, obviously, you're gonna want to go to the PDT, Death and Co., uh, Pegu Club, Little Branch. Milk and Honey is kind of hard to get into sometimes. You got any restaurants there, Nastasha? You're the one that always recommends restaurants for people.
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+[21:10] I know. No, I know. We go to some really terrible restaurants. Well, good. So tell me the good ones.
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+[21:15] What about lunch at Teresa's? Ooh, Therese's really good. And you know about Roberta's obviously, otherwise you wouldn't be calling in. Roberta's you gotta stop there. Gotta go out to push what.
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+[21:22] Yeah. Oh, and if you want to taste some if you want to taste, and this is off the radar. Uh you I look okay, right, pumping heritage meats, but if you want to taste some delicious American country hams, the Essex Street Market shop for Heritage Meats has uh a probably the best supply other than a Sambar of American country hams to try of of people that are using Heritage Meats, but are also great producers like Benton's and uh and uh Nancy uh Mahaffey at Colonel Newsom's and uh and um S. Wallace Edwards who's a sponsor of the network, blah blah blah blah blah. Um what else, Sazie?
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+[21:57] All right, she's gonna think about this crap. All right. And then hydrocolloids. Where we're uh, you know, any any good place to fix something like that up? Nah, I buy online.
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+[22:05] I just buy online. Like go go to any one of the online suppliers, like Modernist Pantry or uh, you know, Terra Spice or any of that. Amazon now is linked up with some of these guys. You can get it really quickly. I've never walked into a store and bought bought stuff here um in terms of uh hydrocolloids.
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+[22:20] You know, and we don't even have in New York City really great homebrew shops. There's a small homebrew shop at the Whole Foods, but nothing you know, nothing really to write home about. Any other specialty markets? I mean Oh, there's a weird why don't why don't you send me an email and then I'll send you an email back. Or or we'll try and think about it and we'll and we'll spout it off on the next on the next program or something like that.
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+[22:38] Well, you should be too late for you. Anyway, we've given you some good recommendations. All right, all right, thanks. Happy to hear you. Oh, we have another caller?
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+[22:47] Caller, you're on the air. Hey Dave, this is Joshua Stokes. How are you doing? I'm doing alright. What's up?
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+[22:52] Um, I have to in the next few days and make a foie gras terrine, and I wanted to do it low temperature if I could. Could you give me some pointers on either making a terrine or a torsion? What's going to go in? Is it terrine basically 100% foie gras with flavoring, or are you adding other stuff to it? Just the foie gras.
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+[23:11] Yeah. Now, uh I okay, I have to be honest, I don't cook because it's really expensive and it's not normally my it's not one of the things I normally cook. If you go on, so I I'd be basically be telling you from a long time ago memory what to do. But there's a there's various different ways of doing the uh terrene in terms of the time and temperature. Typically what you would do is you would pack it either in a terrine mold inside of a bag, or you could pack it just alone inside of a bag.
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+[23:40] Um there's a it depends on how you want it, whether you want it basically me quiet, like partially cooked, or whether you want it kind of all the way cooked through. Most people I think now tend to go on the low side of cooked. And um, it's one of the few things that is still cooked at what they say is a delta temperature where the water bath temperature is slightly. You're uh you're doing this sous- vide, right? Um my memory just zapped out.
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+[24:03] You're doing this sous vide. I mean, I would say low temperature. I don't have an actual vacuum machine. All right, so you can do it in a vacuum uh in a ziploc bag, no problem. They um most people put a slight delta delta T on it just because you don't want it to cook for a very, very long time because the longer it cooks, even at the lower temperatures, the more kind of uh fat leakage you're gonna get out of it.
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+[24:22] Do you know what I'm saying? So they they tend to go uh they try to try to do it a little a little bit more more quickly. Um go on cookingissues.com, go to the Sous vide, Sous vide Low Temperature Primer, and in that, in the pretty Pictures charts, there is a section um on I believe there's a temperature there for foie gras terrine. If not, uh they're they're cooked low, like in the low to mid 50s Celsius, usually cooked at something like 60 degrees Celsius to something like 54, 55 in that range. For a higher temp cook, you could go up to like 57, but I wouldn't go higher than that.
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+[24:59] I wish I could remember off the top of my head, but those numbers are in the primer in the pretty pictures charts. Uh especially redact redacted from Bruno Gusseau, Georges Pralu, and Juan Roca's recipes on foie gras terrine. Okay, great. Thank you very much. All right, no problem.
+
+[25:16] Good luck. And sorry I didn't have it right off the top of my head. Oh, no problem. Thanks. All right.
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+[25:20] I should cook more foie gras, right? Yeah. I really just I just don't cook it very often. Weird. Um okay.
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+[25:28] Oops. Getting a picture. We're getting a picture in. Nastash will have to explain to me what it is in a minute. Hold on a second.
+
+[25:34] So uh got a question in from uh Andrew from Andrew uh said about teeth brushing. This morning I was brushing my teeth as I habitually do every morning, we hope. Uh when I brush my teeth, I also brush my tongue as to remove the horrible morning breath germs and whatnot. I took pause this morning and thought, uh, does this abrasive action hurt my tongue and therefore my taste buds and palate? This may be pure paranoia, but as a budding professional cook, I'm doing my best to taste everything, develop a palate and not swallow some lie, uh making a joke on me swallowing live, burning half of my tongue.
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+[26:05] By the way, uh uh that's Andrew from MPLS. What's MPLS? I don't know. Anyway, um, I did burn off uh a huge chunk of my taste buds with uh lye, but they grew back, thank goodness. So uh it's a curious question.
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+[26:19] So not just brushing your teeth, but they sell tongue scrapers to scrape kind of your tongue off. And yeah, and uh first of all, I looked up is this is tongue scraping and teeth brushing actually effective? You know, tongue brushing effective. And uh I looked in a um an article called the impact of different tongue cleaning methods on bacterial load of the tongue from 2008. And yes, uh not once, but habitual uh cleaning of the tongue via scraping, and I would assume also by brushing, does reduce bacterial load on the tongue.
+
+[26:47] Okay, and therefore, you know, helps with halitosis and whatnot. Um but I read in another book, The Toxicology of the Eye, Ear, and Other Special Senses by Andrew Wallace Hayes, that yes, in fact, taste buds do get abraded, right, and taste cells do get damaged by abrasion. However, uh it only takes about 10 days. The average the average lifespan of a taste receptor cell is about ten days. They're getting turned over all the time.
+
+[27:12] So if you abrade some, right, and you ruin some, they're just gonna grow back. So it's not like you're gonna get any sort of permanent long-term loss from scraping or or from brushing, and you have to think uh about this is that if you have some sort of stank taste in your mouth, right, that's gonna affect your palate as much as as you know, wiping away a few taste buds. Wouldn't you think so, Nastasha? Now it is true that you should not brush your teeth any time close to when you're going to be tasting or cooking. In fact, um there is a whole body of research out there on how to neutralize the effect uh the effect of brushing teeth in tasting panels, because it's a huge problem in the industry where they're doing tasting panels uh and taking notes for for food manufacturers, for coffee, etc.
+
+[27:58] etc. People who brush their teeth and then try to taste sync because toothbrush teeth brushing and toothpaste wipes out your palate for a good length of time. So there's a whole I didn't get a chance to go reread all that, but there's a huge research body on that. So you should not brush your teeth uh with toothpaste anytime near when you're going to be eating uh eating professionally. And if if you do, you should be uh chewing on a bunch of carrots and drinking a bunch of stuff to wash away the uh toothbrush taste.
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+[28:24] Yeah? Yeah. Yeah. Okay. Uh Ryan Santos writes in Hey Dave and Nastasha, happy new year.
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+[28:30] I recently acquired some locally raised pheasants. Having no experience with them, I was hoping to get some suggestions on how to prepare them, whole roasted, sous vide, whichever. They're all two to three pounds. That's small. Uh and cooking recommendations seem to vary widely from 15 to 20 minutes to 1.5 hours.
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+[28:46] Help. Okay, here's the problem with pheasants. Pheasants are delicious, but they're very easy to overcook. The legs are tough, and the breast, if it overcooks, is is useless. That said, pheasant delicious, right?
+
+[28:55] Uh now, there's two basic ways you can do this. I would never cook for uh one and a half hours. That's just too dang long. If you want to do a roast pheasant, just a super high temperature to crisp up the outside to get some nice flavor without overcooking it. I've done that.
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+[29:08] I've I've grilled uh pheasant over like raging wood fires. Basically, the outside was burnt, the inside was raw, and it was still delicious, you know, back in the day. If you want to do it low temp, which is I think gonna be the best way to get kind of a high end result out of it. What I would do is I would cut off the breasts, right? Then cut off the legs, cook the legs separately.
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+[29:26] You could do a braise of the legs or whatever, because they're gonna be tough anyway. Uh take the uh bones, make a stock with it, take the breasts, cook them at around 57 degrees Celsius for and they're very thin, so I would cook them only for like 20 minutes. Uh yeah, let them cool down, right? And then quick sear, like not like rendering duck fat, but like quick sear very high to crisp up the skin on the outside, serve them and you're done. That's what I think you should do.
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+[29:53] What do you think? Okay. Maybe 58. What do you think? Yes.
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+[29:56] Nastasha doesn't really care. Okay. So uh should we go to our second break or no? Uh no. No?
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+[30:01] Okay, good. Sebastian writes in, hey David Nastasha. By the way, in case you have a question, call in to 724972128. That's a one eight four nine seven two one two eight. Uh hey David Nastasha.
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+[30:12] I love that you guys have put together such an amazing radio show amazing radio show. Thank you very much. Uh I'm a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and love that I have a resource for learning about advanced and cutting edge cooking techniques. Here are my questions. I've been making root beer from scratch using the recipe from America's Test Kitchen.
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+[30:27] You can find the recipe at WW Americans Test Test Fitchin Key blah blah blah blah blah blah. You look for online, America's Test Kitchen uh root beer recipe. Uh the root beer is quite delicious and amazing. It's carbonated with yeast and has a great depth of flavor. The only thing I'd like to improve is the head.
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+[30:43] It has a small head when it's first poured and then dies off very quickly. Is there something I can do to make it have more of a Guinness type long lasting head that would be nice and foamy? Perhaps adding some liquid lessithin would do the job. Or would I add uh or what would uh or when would I, or what would I add to it? And do I have ec any recommendations for percentages to try, or is there anything else to get this effect?
+
+[31:02] Thanks, Sebastian from Napa Valley. Alright, Sebastian, I wouldn't go with uh lessithin for this. Uh less thin knives wouldn't go for it for this. What I would use, what the pros use for beer stabilization is uh I mean you can use gumerabic, by the way, as a bodying aid uh aid, and that's fairly you know, friendly. Uh also fairly expensive.
+
+[31:22] Uh and that can be used to stabilize the the head a little bit, although I I I don't have any experience with it. The really the thing for stabilizing uh the head of beer and whatnot. They have newer ones that are cheaper, but it's propylene glycol alginate, P G A. Uh and uh you can buy it from a homebrew shop under the name Heading Powder, or professionally one of the brand names of it's stable foam. And uh what PGA is uh it's a modified uh alginate, just like seaweed gel, like you'd get now.
+
+[31:52] PGA is one of the two or three hydrocolloids that are used by people that aren't all natural, doesn't occur in nature, and it's also fairly expensive, but uh unlike alginate, it is very good uh with in acidic environments, it's extremely stable, uh it's it's just a good stuff. And you use it in very, very low quantities, like somewhere in the range of like 80 parts per million or something like that. Very low quantities. Uh usually you'd make a water solution with it and then add a little bit of that water solution to your to your product before you uh do this the final fermentation with the yeast. Okay.
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+[32:26] Um this is what you add to to beer basically for uh a super super stable stable foam. Uh so I I would I would do that. Uh if you have a problem with using something that's not 100% natural like PGA, there are other things under the under the they're basically beer foam stabilizers that you can add, but I don't know what they're made out of. I assume it's like some sort of like busted up pectin or some sort of crazy thing that's uh you know, maybe a little bit cheaper than PGA or maybe uh a little bit more natural, you know, that than PGA, but that's that's what I would go for. Um the other thing is that uh the the head in in beer is related to the um is related to the kind of surface active principle of the of the liquid itself, which is why different liquids with the same amount of uh CO2 in them can have different kinds of heads in them, and why beers which have like uh a lot of uh especially those thick ones that have stuff left over from the uh from the barley and whatnot have a bigger head uh you know gaining potential.
+
+[33:25] So you could there are probably other ingredients you could add to your root beer that would increase the head. I don't happen to know off the top of my head what they are. I just know this you know, the whiz bang, add the PGA and go. Uh but I would definitely research that. There's been a lot of research done in the beer head uh point.
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+[33:40] Yeah? Good job. Yeah. Okay. Uh now, uh Andrew Switzer writes in with something that uh Nastasha, I don't know whether you checked it out, but you try yeah, so uh this is about Nastasha's famous but uh as yet unphotographed vegan face.
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+[33:56] And uh Andrew writes in and says that you should go to YouTube and type in uh sh sugar honey iced tea that a vegan would say. That's my way of saying that curse word on a family. Remember a family show now. I wonder how that project worked out, by the way. Anyway.
+
+[34:09] They said it worked out well. They called back in, I remember again? No, but I mean after that they were still working on it. We're talking about the low temp souvine thing. Anyway, uh, so yeah, crap that a vegan we'll say crap that a vegan would say, although it's not crap, it's another word that starts with S.
+
+[34:21] Uh, but you can look at that, but that guy doesn't have a vegan face. Like that's his normal face. Yeah. Well, he's a vegan. He is a vegan and he has a face.
+
+[34:31] Right. Yeah, but he's not making the face of a vegan. That's the face of a vegan, not Nastasha's vegan face. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[34:38] By the way, speaking of not vegan, my older son, you know, uh Booker says, Daddy, I like candy. Candy's my favorite. Dax, my younger one goes, I like meat. You like that? Yes.
+
+[34:49] That's good stuff. They like bagels too. Why are you trying to get me started on the air? Nastasha, by the way, so yesterday, uh any of you who have kids know that you take a kid out to lunch. You take the kid out to lunch, they don't eat, you're spending a lot of money, and they're like, first of all, if they're not eating, what are they doing?
+
+[35:05] They're shoving their finger up their nose, they're sneezing on the person next to them without covering their mouth, they're doing all sorts of horrible things. Uh, because of course that's the way it works, and they're not eating, so you're spending money and they're not eating, and what happens? You get angry, right? Mm-hmm. Yeah, right.
+
+[35:14] So then uh Nastasha, like I had a problem, a piece of equipment broke. I was like, Nastasha, can you help me out? And can you uh you know watch the kids for a second? Yes, and so then she goes and and uh takes them out and buys them bagel, which sounds like a really good thing, except for basically it was a way as an end around for them to not eat the lunch that we bought them, right? Right.
+
+[35:39] And then Nastasha's like, uh, whatever. I don't even why am I even getting into this? This is crazy. All right, uh let's go to our second commercial break. Call in your questions too, 718-497-2128.
+
+[35:48] That's 718497-2128. I had a dying for every time I dreamed about you. Dreamed about you. I'll tell you. Yes, I'm really broken.
+
+[36:25] And uh should I do me back to love me? Are you gonna make your problem? You said that you have me. And now you're acting so straight. You say that you need me.
+
+[37:02] And welcome back to cooking issues. What was that one, Jack? Uh more Delphonics. Nice, beautiful. Uh, calling your questions too.
+
+[37:08] 718497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. By the way, uh, in case you were wondering, if I shouldn't do this, this is ridiculous. I'm gonna get I'm gonna get sued for this. Nastasha wants me to do this.
+
+[37:20] By the way, I am basically just Nastasha's puppet for this. But you're promoting his who he is. Yeah, but does he want promotion? Yes. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[37:29] Alright, so those of you, those of you who've listened to the show uh, you know, a lot, uh, you might know that there is a a character here at Roberta's uh a waiter that we call Indy Jesus. And uh we found out his name so that you can go look at his Facebook profile and you can see, you know, kind of what we're talking about. Because, you know, you know, very rarely we're here in a box. You don't know what we're talking about. Nasta Nastasha, I can't read his name aloud because I can't read your writing.
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+[38:00] Dante is his first name. Damien is his middle and Dolly. Dolly is his last name. Alright, so you know you should friend, be a fan, be a fan. Be a fan.
+
+[38:10] We want you to be a fan. This is I say we set up a date between Nastasia and him. Yep. Look, this is a fly. This is not a hate throwdown.
+
+[38:17] This is a this is a this is a love thing. This is a love thing. This is a love thing. Okay. Okay.
+
+[38:25] Mark Younger writes in. Hi, Dave and Nastasha. I've been listening to the podcast since late last spring, and it finally caught up. I noticed that Dave frequently gives low temperature cooking times, but then he never states at what temperature the food is when it is placed in the circulator. Well, for longer times, it just probably does not make any difference.
+
+[38:40] There are occasions when he talks about cooking uh some items, e.g., fish, for relatively short periods of time. So is there a general assumption that everything is coming straight from a refrigerator and therefore with a temper in the high 30s, or is there some other assumed starting temperature? Thanks, Mark Younger. Okay. This is an excellent question, actually, because we really haven't addressed this uh issue.
+
+[38:59] And the temperature at which the uh product starts does have an effect, obviously, on how long something takes to cook through. Now, most of the work that I do, uh, I'm assuming that something's getting pulled straight from the fridge just because I don't have time to have stuff sitting around for you know forever. Uh and so most of my work is straight from the fridge with a with I know there's some exceptions, but I can't think of them off the top of my head. Uh most of my stuff comes straight from the fridge. That said, if you have a different temperature, there are programs like Sous V Dash that we talked about before on the uh on the program that will allow you to put the starting temperature of the of the product in so that you can figure out how long it takes.
+
+[39:39] The other thing is that I typically um something like a thin piece of fish, it's true that you don't want to cook it for too long. You don't want to cook it for you know more than 20 minutes or so, but that's enough time typically to make it up to temperature, whether or not the product if it's thin, very thin, uh whether the product starts at you know 38 or 48 uh you know Fahrenheit, because it's just you know, you have much more time than is needed. So I I usually try to build into my cooking technique uh enough time to make up for any sort of variance there is based on the initial temperature of the meat. Obviously, it's a big deal if you're trying to do a delta temperature or if you're working with razor thin margins. For instance, if you're doing fish that is cooked a la minute and you're using a delta T, let's say you're cooking a fish at s in a 60 degree water bath, but you only want the inside to make it up to like 55, 56 uh Celsius now or on Celsius, apologize going back and forth.
+
+[40:39] But uh then obviously the initial starting temperature is going to make a big difference. Um because in that case, you're you know counting on the seconds being right when you're cooking. And so for that, it's absolutely vital the temperature be the same every time. I don't think it's so vital if you've built in like a good 10 to 15% overage on the amount of time you're cooking, which is typically I'm at least at that number. But it's still it's an excellent question and something that be uh should be addressed.
+
+[41:05] I think fridge temperature is the easiest temperature because it's usually within uh you know two, three degrees, and so uh it's a good thing to start from. Yeah, and and again, as long as you can repeat it, then it doesn't really matter, right? You if if you did everything and it always started at the same temperature, then it wouldn't matter, it would just work the same, you just correct recipes, but fridge is easy to maintain, and that's what I use. Yeah? Mm-hmm.
+
+[41:27] Okay. Uh Harlan writes in uh hi Dave and Nastasha. I just ran across this great article in Smithsonian on potatoes. Have you seen it? Uh I had not seen it.
+
+[41:36] Go to Smithsonian Um Smithsonian Mag.com, how the potato changed the world. Uh, and then Harlan writes in there must be amazing kick-ass French fry possibilities in the thousands of varieties of potatoes they've got in Peru. Well, uh there are some amazing books on potatoes out. Uh, the article, by the way, is cool. You should read the article.
+
+[41:56] But there's some amazing books uh by about potatoes. I have one by the Brooklyn Botanic Brooklyn Botanical Garden has a whole series of books, by the way, one of which is like Tubers of the World, which is pretty cool, pretty kick butt little little book. Uh but uh here's uh some stuff that I thought was interesting from that article that I will share with you. Uh this is a quote from the article. Wild potatoes are laced with solanine and tomatine, toxic compounds believed to defend the plants against attacks from dangerous uh organisms like fungi, bacteria, and human beings.
+
+[42:23] Cooking often breaks down such chemical defenses, but not solanine and uh tomatine. This is why, by the way, when a potato turns green, uh that's chlorophyll, but it also indicates that other things are happening, including an increased solanine level, which is why you shouldn't eat potatoes that are green, or if you do, you should peel the hell out of them, which we've actually talked about on the show before. Um, here's the cool thing. In the mountains uh um of uh in the mountains, these animals I can't even pronounce, uh lick clay before eating poisonous plants. The toxins adsorb to the fine clay partial particles in the animal's stomach, passing through the digestive system without affecting it.
+
+[42:58] Mimicking this process, mountain peoples apparently learned to dunk wild potatoes in a gravy made of clay and water. How cool is that? Cool. Eventually they bred less toxic potatoes, though some of the old poisonous varieties remain favored for their resistance to frost, and clay dust is still sold in Peruvian and Bolivian markets to accompany them. So, first of all, there's this famous recipe uh from Mugaritz, right, uh, about dipping uh clay in ka sorry, dipping potatoes in kaolin, which is clay, right?
+
+[43:26] Uh and kaolin also great adsorber. It's uses the wine finding agent. Uh and so I don't even know if they know this. I don't even know if uh, you know, Andoni and the all those guys know this, but uh apparently this is a traditional uh thing to dip potatoes in clay or in some sort of kaolin thing. I thought that was pretty cool.
+
+[43:44] Uh pretty cool thing. Uh another thing that they mentioned in the article are chunio blanco, which chunio we've met I've mentioned this before, I think, on the air, but this is kind of inca freeze-dried potato, and basically they they these potatoes are like frozen and then thrown in a well and then frozen and and thawed again and they they dry out like really like old school like you know pre-technological freeze-drying technology. And uh Nastash and I made them thinking this is gonna be the most awesome thing in the world, and they smelled like uh like a like a goat's bedding. Right? Uh that's put a nice way to put it.
+
+[44:19] Like, and tasted like a goat's bedding. Uh and so, you know, I have a standing thing, and I'll repeat it now. Here's a standing offer. Uh I will give I don't know, Jack, can I do this? I will give a heritage meat of some type.
+
+[44:33] Can I do this? Yeah, yeah. Yeah. Uh Jack will pick out a nice heritage meat of some type, and I will give it to anyone that can phone or write in a decent way to prepare chunyo blanco potatoes that doesn't taste like uh like I just licked a live goat. I like that.
+
+[44:50] Yeah. What meat would go well with those potatoes? Goat. Goat. Well, I don't know if we have goat.
+
+[44:55] Oh yeah, but oh yeah, we can give away whatever you think, Jack. I mean, I'm sure, you know, I just want someone to write in with a good recipe. Uh the last interesting thing I'll mention from this article, extremely, extremely interesting, and it relates to uh goat poop, not really goats, but poop, is uh so apparently there's these islands that uh off of Peru, the uh Chincha Islands, that uh for you know, millennia were coated in bird poop, bird guano, right? And there started uh when they realized that uh guano had in it uh nitrogen and was useful for a fertilizer in the 1840s, there began a rush for mining and or collecting guano, shipping it uh over to Europe to use as a fertilizer, right? So literally people would go fill a boat up with poo and then take the poo across the ocean and sell the poo.
+
+[45:45] Right? Anyway, not you know, it's not it's no bat guano, it was bird guano, but anyway, you know, guano, guano's guano. Okay. Uh well, it turns out that the current research is that uh and I can't pronounce it, Phyto Thora Infestons, right, which is uh potato blight, right, was brought to Europe on a poop boat. A boat made out of poop?
+
+[46:10] Well, a boat full of poop. Yeah. So they were filled with poop, and one of those poop boats brought over the potato blight. So potato comes from Peru. Uh, and then also this blight, uh, apparently the native stock is is resistant, comes over, and that's what caused the potato famine.
+
+[46:27] Poop boats. Anyway, uh, happy new year from the poop boat. This is cooking issues. Uh oh, sorry, I have one more comment from uh somebody emailed in. Tell the live my mic is screwed up.
+
+[46:41] Tell the live caller about corn for knives. Oh, yeah. Oh, oh yeah, duh! Duh. That's Brian.
+
+[46:48] Out to Brian. Okay, going out to Brian. Go to Coran Knives. I can't believe I overlooked this. I've actually bought some Christmas presents there uh for my for my mom.
+
+[46:57] Uh here's my recommendation. Corin Knives sells like Japanese uh kitchen stuff, but they're known for their Japanese knives. It's the best Japanese knife place I've ever seen. Uh, here's the only issue with it. Bring money.
+
+[47:12] Bring lots of money. Because you can't go to Corinne without spending a lot of money because it's just so amazing. Cooking issues. Vicious Vicious vodka. Oh, you dead.
+
+[47:28] Got me on this corner. And I don't know where I'm at. Supposed to meet my baby. You got my head all twisted. And I guess can't get it straight.
+
+[47:51] Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. Thanks for listening. Now when my baby sees me, she's gonna bust my head right in. Oh you dirty rat.
+
+[48:34] Got me on this corner, and I don't
\ No newline at end of file
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+[0:00] This podcast is sponsored by Talkspace. Last year I went through many different life changes. I needed to take a pause and examine how I was feeling in the inside to better show up for the ones who need me to be my best version of myself. When you're navigating life's changes, Talkspace can help. Talkspace is the number one rated online therapy, bringing you professional support from licensed therapists and psychiatry providers that you can access anytime, anywhere.
+
+[0:27] Living a busy life, navigating a long distance relationship, becoming a first step father. Talkspace made all of those journeys possible. I could speak with my therapist in the office. I could speak of my therapist in the comfort of my home. I was never alone.
+
+[0:41] Talkspace works with most major insurers, and most insured members have a zero dollar copay. No insurance, no problem. Now get $80 off your first month with promo code Space80 when you go to Talkspace.com. Match with a licensed therapist today at Talkspace.com. Save $80 with code Space80 at Talkspace.com.
+
+[1:03] Broadcasting live from Roberta's in Bushwick, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you every Tuesday live on the Heritage Radio Network from Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn from 12 to approximately 1245. Uh calling all of your cooking-related questions to 718-497-2128.
+
+[1:38] That's 718497-2128. Joined as usual in the studio with Nastasha The Hammer Lopez. How are you doing? I'm good. Yeah?
+
+[1:46] Mm-hmm. Good. Uh well, we haven't been here for a couple of weeks. Have a lot to talk about. A lot has happened in the in the uh last couple of weeks.
+
+[1:54] Uh well, the most important one being, uh, and I guess we'll talk about this more towards the end of the show, but we opened the bar. We're dax at Som is now open for business. And you can come to 13th Street and 2nd Avenue, where uh we've put our uh whatever it is, foot where our mouth is, money where our mouth is, whatever. Yeah. We're trying all of the techniques that for years I've been saying you can use in a bar or a restaurant.
+
+[2:20] And we're actually doing it and seeing whether it's working so far, I think it seems to be going pretty well. Yeah. Yeah? Yeah. You enjoy the drinks?
+
+[2:25] You've been there as a customer a couple times. Yes, they're delicious. Yeah? All right. Anyway, we'll talk more about that later.
+
+[2:30] Uh and that's the reason we didn't have the show last week. I apologize. We're gonna try to do the show last week on Tuesday, but it was our first day of friends and family. And uh let's just put it this way uh getting everything ready was uh what we say, a poop show? Is that the family way to say it?
+
+[2:44] Yeah. Poop show? Yeah. Yeah, poop show. Uh even though it was our friends and family who are very forgiving folks, it was still you know, it's still quite a poop show.
+
+[2:53] We've ironed it all out. Come, come, come to the bar. Um But the weekend before that, a week before that rather, uh, I was in Sweden, which I'd never been before. Very nice uh in Sweden. I was uh brought there uh by the absolute people.
+
+[3:05] The the the absolute vodka was like, do you want an all expenses paid trip to Sweden and then get to go to an ice hotel? And what are you gonna say to that? But yes. Right? So anyway, so I went and I found out something interesting that I didn't know.
+
+[3:17] Our friend uh the uh bartender slash uh writer in New York Times, Toby Chicken. Uh did you know he and he basically invented slash popularized the cosmo, the cosmopolitan? I did not know that. Uh I learned that, of course, you know, a a proper Cosmo, if there's such a thing as a proper Cosmo, a uh it's actually an okay drink, right? It's just you don't like Nastasha's giving her vegan face because she doesn't drink vodka drinks, so it's basically Nastasha's vodka slash vegan face.
+
+[3:42] It's actually, look, everyone has the gripe against vodka. It's fairly neutral in a mixed drink of vodka, so it's just a question of like, you know, anyway whatever, I'm not gonna get into it. A Cosmo tastes fine. Uh, but in order to make a proper Cosmo, you need uh absolute citron, which is why Absolute was talking about it, because the popularity of the Cosmo was coincided with the launch of Absolute Citron here in the US. But but the point of the story is is that you would never peg Toby for the Cosmo guy.
+
+[4:09] And by the way, I know there's a lot of argument as to who invented the Cosmo, like there's these people out in San Francisco that say they do it. I don't really care. Absolute vodka basically says it is Toby. So if they say it's Toby, I'm gonna go with that. In fact, Dale de Groff, another one of our friends who was at the thing at the time, did not dispute.
+
+[4:23] He actually probably made it more popular because he was serving them to Madonna and Madonna drinking them in public, I think that's was a major spur to its popularity. Oh, it was Sex in the City. I believe Madonna came before Sex in the City. This is the problem with you being a two-year-old. Sex and City was much later.
+
+[4:39] In other words, it's already a popular drink. They sex in the City chose it as their iconic drink because it was already a popular drink among the inset in New York City of models and types like that. Hmm. Two-year-old. She's not actually two, by the way.
+
+[4:54] Uh so anyways, you would not expect this guy to be the Cosmo guy because he's kind of a tall professorial dude who speaks uh, you know, in very measured tones and wears tweed jackets. Would you expect that from the Cosmo guy? No. Anyway. Uh last thing I'll say about Sweden uh is that I got to ride a dog sled.
+
+[5:12] I saw. Dog sledding's pretty awesome. Dog sledding. Do you know that they they don't stop to poop or pee? They just pee and poop whether like they basically shoot it out while they're running.
+
+[5:21] And then they also they don't stop to drink, so they just eat snow while they're going. Wow. And that there's no rains. It's not like Yukon Cornelius. There's no kind of whip or anything like that.
+
+[5:30] You just basically tell the dogs go left, right? And they all run. Anyway, dog setting. On to the cooking questions. I don't know how uh Joseph, I apologize.
+
+[5:40] I'm gonna brutalize your last name because it contains an umlaut in a position I'm not used to. But Joseph uh Peter, what do you think? Peter? I don't know. P-E-T-H-O-UMA peter?
+
+[5:50] Anyway. Writes in about meatballs. Dave, I'm planning to make meatballs this week and I'm trying something new. The meatballs will be around 3.5 centimeters in diameter. That's like an inch and a half for us in uh in inch land, right?
+
+[6:01] Something like that. Cooked sous- vide, but not really sous-vide, because he says there's not going to be a vacuum seal so as not to destroy the texture. So, Joseph, you're not really cooking sous- vide, you're cooking low temperature, right? Sous-vide, it has to kind of be under a vacuum. And remember, I make that distinction specifically because the health department gets uh in, you know, gets all hot and bothered when you use vacuum here in the city, uh, but not for uh low temperature.
+
+[6:23] So I try to keep the term sous- vide under vacuum, separate from low temperature, which is temperature controlled cooking, or some people call it exact cooking, or there's a bunch of different terms people use. Anyway, uh I'm gonna cook them uh low temperature at 56 degrees Celsius, which is a good temperature for uh meatballs. If there's a high pork content, people might freak out. It's it's not gonna be a health issue, but it's just a question of what people want. 56 is gonna basically be a rare, you know, medium rare kind of uh a meatball.
+
+[6:49] So if you want it to be medium rare, it will taste great. It's just a question of visually whether you want it to look that way or not. Uh okay. Um I cook them for about 30 minutes. I would cook them actually longer if you want to tenderize uh the meat at those uh temperatures.
+
+[7:02] Uh see, when you're grinding it, you're tenderizing it, but in fact, you can tenderize the grounds even further. So we when when I do a hamburger, I'll cook it for several hours at uh 55 or 56 uh to really tenderize and cook the meat. Anyway, uh for 30 minutes, and afterwards the meatballs will be deep fried to finish them off at uh 350 degrees Fahrenheit for about two minutes. He's just like I am. He fries in Fahrenheit and uh fries in Fahrenheit and cooks in Celsius.
+
+[7:27] Crazy, just like me. Crazy. Anyway, uh go higher anyway. 350 is a little low, go like 365, and you don't need a full two minutes, although you can. Um I think this should give good results, and was wondering what you think.
+
+[7:37] Okay. Uh well when I cook meatballs, this is the technique I use, but you have to fry them before you cook them uh in the in the ziploc bags. And the reason why is otherwise they'll stick to each other. What you want to do is get oil fairly hot and you want to flash fry for like 30 seconds the meatballs, pull them out. Do not let them sit on a tray that will just break under their own weights at that point because you've heated the outside.
+
+[7:59] So you want to put them directly into a bag. I usually put them into a bag with butter, but you probably could cook them directly in your meatball sauce if you want. Uh and uh that's the way you cook them uh to stop them from breaking apart. Once they're cooked, they won't be as fragile. You could pull them out, uh flash fry them.
+
+[8:15] I I obviously would bag them in something like butter and not in the sauce if you're gonna do the flash fry afterwards, because you can't fry the sauce, it would be a nightmare. Another uh point, uh 56 is gonna be a little low for some of your customers. You might want to go a little bit higher, like 57, which is normally where I go. Uh and another point uh that I make other than saying cooking longer than the 30 minutes that you're cooking, is uh if you mix uh salt in and you almost always mix salt in with your meatball mix when you're when you're mixing it. Um, um it's the the the longer they stay when they're cooked, kind of the firmer they're gonna get, and the less you're gonna have that kind of a low temperature effect.
+
+[8:55] But on the other hand, the saltier and more delicious the meatballs will taste. So you have to kind of uh trade off how much salt and how much mixing, but you never want to make your meatball mix, you want to make your meatball mix right away fry it. Uh make your meatballs right away fry it and then put it in the bag, and that's gonna kind of give you your best results. And the more salt and the more kneading you do to your meatballs, the more they're gonna get firmly packed, like a like a like a sausage or like a puck, and the less they'll be like a hamburger. So it depends on how you want your meatballs.
+
+[9:23] Some people like their meatballs very loose, in which case you're gonna want to add m more uh more wet, more filler, less salt, less kneading, or firmer, in which case more salt, more more kneading, uh, and longer keep times. Does that make sense? Yep. Okay. Uh on to the next question.
+
+[9:41] Uh Naveen, our good friend Naveen from uh from Harvard, who was uh the TA, het T, I think, right? Yeah. Head TA in the uh Harvard's food science course, uh friend of ours and a uh vegetarian that Nastasha uh ruthlessly berates him for for no apparent reason. Apparent reason. What apparent reason?
+
+[10:01] He is the food TA. He's a food T, so what? Why can't he be a vegetarian? How's he able to taste all of the wonderful things that those awesome chefs who go up there do? Well, first of all, it's not about that.
+
+[10:14] It's about teaching like science and and cooking. And and you're there, there's not like they're making a lot of food for people to taste. Still science and cooking, and you only eat vegetables. I mean, I don't I don't see I don't I don't get you. All right.
+
+[10:27] I don't get you. You don't eat half half the things in the world you eat but you don't like. Yeah, I eat. Whatever. Anyway.
+
+[10:32] Uh Naveen writes in, it was great to see you at Harvard last year. Did we did a couple of lectures last year at Harvard? Several of the students told me how much they enjoyed your demos during the science and cooking class. Must have been somebody else. My demos were a poop show, right?
+
+[10:43] Big show. Anyway. There is a group of them who are inspired to do more research into cooking-related science projects as part of a spring class that they're doing. So I was wondering if you had any ideas for them, which could be free uh RD, RD for you. Well, this is actually a complicated question.
+
+[10:58] I'd have to think of what would be kind of appropriate for an undergrad to experiment with the kind of level of cooking that level of cooking equipment that they have there at Harvard. I mean, there's a ton of research that I would love to do that involves lab equipment that we don't own, but not cooking. And uh, you know, some of the similar uh stuff that uh, you know, Ariel, our friend Arielle's doing over in uh at UC Davis with um checking how food reacts and doing qualitative tests on food. For instance, she's working on what happens to lime juice as it's stored over time. There's a whole bunch of tests like that that I like running.
+
+[11:32] Um I don't know. I'm gonna Naveen, I'm gonna have to give that some thought. And also, if anyone out there has any interesting projects, maybe email them in to us, right? Mm-hmm. But uh Naveen, I'm gonna give you more thought on that.
+
+[11:42] I'm gonna come back to you next week with some uh good ideas. By the way, speaking of RD, uh one of my former interns, Liz Button, who has um a restaurant in uh in North Carolina, came into the bar last night for research. You like that? That's nice research, huh? Going to drink?
+
+[11:57] Yeah. That's some good research. I like to get that research job. Anyway, uh, okay. We have a question in, uh actually without a name, so I'm sorry, I don't know who you are.
+
+[12:07] But uh says, hello, Nastasha, Dave, Jack, and Carlos. Jack actually not here today. Not here. Lazy. Just kidding.
+
+[12:17] Just kidding. Uh one. My wife and I are gonna be in New York City for the week of March 6th for our honeymoon. Wait, so are you already married or are you gonna be married? Did you take a delayed honeymoon?
+
+[12:28] Probably delayed. Everyone does delay too. Really? Why? They don't have the money, they don't have the time.
+
+[12:29] Wait, so they want to get married on particular date, but they don't have the money and or time. You think it's more money or more time usually? Time. Time? They don't want to schedule the wet the wedding for when they have time.
+
+[12:43] Right. Okay. I'm just trying to understand this. Because you gotta remember, uh, when I had my honeymoon, I was like three years old. I was twenty-four, and I had nothing but I had no money, but it's not like I was gonna make money in the next couple of months after that.
+
+[12:55] And I did you go? And I had time. Went to Italy. Italy. Uh anyway, uh it was like 17 years ago.
+
+[13:02] Anyway, uh we're going to hit Roberta's for lunch on Tuesday. Roberta's honeymoon. Anyway. Uh asked for Indy Jesus. Oh yes!
+
+[13:12] You have to get served by Indy Jesus. He's stoking the fire, right? Actually, he's stoking the fire, but he's like indie motorcycle Jesus now. He's got like the Greek fisherman's hat that like you know, motorcycle dudes from the 50s and 60s used to wear, you know? You know what I'm talking about?
+
+[13:25] Looks he looks he's in rare form today, Indy Jesus. And he just Indy Jesus decided before he came to work today what the temperature was gonna be outside, because he's got like a sheerling jacket on. He gets outside, it's like a million degrees in New York today because of global warming. He's still wearing the warm jacket just because of the look. Anyway, love that, love that.
+
+[13:42] Anyways, please get served by Indie Jesus. And uh yes, you can actually watch us tape our show if that interests you. If you're here between 12 and 1245, if you sit in the outside area, you can watch us tape the show. Uh okay. Uh and he imagines uh our secret operation will be up and running by then.
+
+[13:59] Yes, it's the bar the secret operation is the bar, and it already is up and running, so we can talk about it. Anyone can call in any questions about the bar right now they want to at 718-497-2128. Uh and we're planning on hitting a couple of the Momofuku properties while we're in town anyway. Uh that means our project. Hopefully, the milk bar cookbook inspired uh my actual and next first question.
+
+[14:20] What is the deal with glucose syrup? What I understand is that is it a mix it is a mix of water, glucose, maltose, and other longer chain maltodextrins. Sounds like the ratio of those determines the sweetness and the viscosity and the total solids content, which are all important to uh prevent uh fermentation. Um I guess fermentation you means of the syrup. I've got recipes calling for DE40 and DE20 glucose syrup, but at the store I can just buy normal corn syrup uh or more expensive clear corn syrup, which seems to have vanilla flavoring at it.
+
+[14:51] Uh uh any idea what the likely dextrose equivalent of these things in the supermarket is. Uh I already have a big bag of dextrose and was meaning to buy a bunch of endsorbit anyway. Can I just mix up some homemade glucose syrups from powder dextrose, maltose, and malso dextrins? Are there standard ratios for the different DEs? I think that it is more community to stock powders and sticky syrups, but does anybody actually do that?
+
+[15:12] Okay, here's the here's the problem. There's a lot of terminology, uh a lot of terminology issues. Um it's gonna be very difficult for you to make glucose syrup from powder just because the bricks uh level of a uh well, it it's really silly to call it bricks, but the solids content of of those uh glucose syrups is upwards of 80%. They're extremely stiff, extreme you know, so you you you're not gonna be able to make one of them without applying heat, probably. Uh you're not just gonna be able to dissolve it and and make it.
+
+[15:40] You're gonna have to heat it and then um take it to a certain temperature. The answer for which temperature, which I'd have no idea. Uh you're m you're better off they last basically forever. So you're better off buying uh a pail of it from like modernist pantry if they sell it. I don't know if they sell it.
+
+[15:57] They say they'll stock any dang thing. So, you know, you should go get it. So and for those of us that don't know what we're we're talking about, glucose syrups are a very unfortunately named thing. Glucose is uh obviously a simple sugar and it is sweet, right? So sucrose is made up of glucose and fructose together.
+
+[16:17] It's a uh you know a disaccharide and and and that's what it is. Um glucose starch, by the way, is made up of a repeating long, long repeating chain of glucose units. When you break down starch, you break it down into like starch, maltodextrins, and dextrins, which are you know longer, like shorter uh numbers of glucose units glued together, right? All the way down to maltose, which is a sweet sugar, which is two glucoses, right? So sucrose is a glute, glucose and a fructose, maltose is two glucoses, and then you break it all the way down to glucose.
+
+[16:52] Uh now glucose uh unfortunately is known by glucose and dextrose. I don't know why they can't just have one name, but they have two, right? And the dextrose equivalent of a glucose syrup is the percentage of sugars in not that are glucose, because that would be or dextrose, that would be too damned easy, right? It's it's the percentage of the uh things in it that are uh what's called a reducing sugar. Glucose is a reducing uh sugar uh because uh I guess because of the aldehyde unit on the end of the of the thing.
+
+[17:24] But anyway, so it's all very complicated. And and different um different sugars, different things with different DEs, right? Because they have different sugars in them. Uh certain words, something can have uh uh contribute to the dextrose equivalent, but not contribute to the sweetness, right? So nothing makes any damn sense.
+
+[17:43] There's no direct relationship between sweetness and dextrose equivalent or or anything. Dextrose equivalent, typically though, I mean not typically, always, the lower the dextrose equivalent, the less sweet the product is. Okay. And also, uh the lower the dextrose equivalent, basically, the less broken down it is. So the higher the dextrose equivalent, the more it's been broken down to glucose, and typically the sweeter uh it is.
+
+[18:05] Okay. Now, uh the reason I think it's silly that they call it glucose syrup is because uh it's not very sweet at all. You know, I mean it's it's hardly sweet at all. I use it all the time in things like ice creams. I use DE twenty glucose syrup when I want to take an ice cream and I want to uh get the texture right, but I don't want to uh have it sweet because it's really not sweet at all, a DE20, uh, compared to uh normal sugar or you know, a a very sweet corn syrup.
+
+[18:37] Uh so I'm not being very helpful. I wouldn't use ensorbit. Uh ensorbit is a particular kind of malto, and so the reason it's the composition of those things is basically they take starch and they break it down into various soluble things like maltodextrin, maltose, dextrins, and and glucose. Uh uh ensorbit is gonna be an expensive way to try and uh make it. You you could instead of trying to make a syrup, try to get the recipe by adding straight powders, but it's gonna be really complicated.
+
+[19:02] I wasn't able to find anyone that does that. Uh, but I can look more and see whether I can come up with anything uh for uh uh next time. Does this make any sense what I'm saying? We have to go to a break. All right, one second.
+
+[19:13] One second. And uh the last comment is the show is great, guys. Thank you very much, appreciate it. And Jack is doing an amazing job with the music. We'll see how Carlos does today.
+
+[19:23] But how about bringing back doing it to death and bad bad whiskey for one more show sometime? We'll think on it. Thanks so much. It's a rocky little regular one my job you to play. You know, messing this is lasting out the two box full of views.
+
+[20:03] I've got a rocking pneumonia. I need a shot of rhythm of loss. I think I call it on the ladder, sitting down by the rhythm reviews. Rockin' in two by two. Well, if you feel it maggots, you get your lover and reel and rocket.
+
+[20:26] Roll it over and move over. Just travel around the real. And welcome back to Cooking Issues. Calling your questions to 718497-2128. That's 718-497-2128.
+
+[20:43] The uh the Beatles version of uh of that song, huh? What do you mean that's George? You said it was the Beatles. Yeah, yeah, I know, but it's George singing it. Okay.
+
+[20:53] Yeah. Uh so uh obviously I like the Chuck Berry version better. Nastasha probably likes the Beatles version better because she's a beetlehead. What do you think? Beatles, Italy, that's all I think about.
+
+[21:03] That's true. Uh my question is: how do you get a rocking pneumonia? Like, in what sense is pneumonia rocking? Like you like, you try to breathe, you can't because your lungs are full of fluid. Like, what's what's so rocking about an pneumonia?
+
+[21:14] I think the least rockin' disease. No, I got a rockin' pneumonia. I need a shot of rhythm and blues. From rock music, he would prefer rhythm and blues. But rock and roll comes from rhythm and blue, it doesn't make any sense.
+
+[21:27] Okay. Makes no damn sense. And like nothing is less lung clogged than rock and roll. Think of a think of a more saying his lungs are clogged with rock and roll. And be rock and roll is non-clogging.
+
+[21:39] It's a non-clogging situation. For him it is. Yeah, whatever. Not ever. Anyway.
+
+[21:44] And it's and the Beatles are saying that their lungs are clogged with rock? Give me a break. Just give me give me a big big give me a big bad break on that. I do not hate the Beatles. He Dave thinks the Beach Boys are far superior to the Beatles.
+
+[21:58] I did not say that. What I said is well-known fact that at the time there was kind of like a rivalry of who could be more of a badass. And when uh Pet Sounds came out, everyone was like, oh my god, Pet Sounds, like the most important blah blah album, blah blah blah. And then Sgt. Pepper came out, and then Beach Boys were like, no.
+
+[22:16] Yes. Basically, that's the that's the rock and roll history in a nutshell on cooking issues. Today's show is sponsored by Modernist Pantry, supplying innovative ingredients for the modern cook. Do you love to experiment with new cooking techniques and ingredients, but hate to overspend for pounds of supplies and only a few grams are needed per application? Modernist Pantry has a solution.
+
+[22:34] They offer a wide range of modern ingredients and packages that make sense for the home cook and enthusiast. I have a question. Isn't the home cooking enthusiast the same person? No. Who's an enthusiast that's not a home cook?
+
+[22:46] Home cook or enthusiast. Because some women who work at or who cook at home aren't enthusiastic about having to cook for their family. If they're not enthusiastic, are they calling Modernist Pantry to get some crazy ingredients? No. Alright.
+
+[22:59] And most only cost around five bucks, saving you time, money, and storage space, which is a big deal here in New York City. Whether you're looking for hydrocolloids, pH buffers, or even meat glue, you'll find it at Modernist Pantry. And if you need something that they don't carry, just ask. Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you with inexpensive shipping to any country in the world, verified by us. Modernist Pantry is your one stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients.
+
+[23:22] Modernist Pantry now carries the complete line of texturus products by Ferron Adria. Fans of cooking issues at place in order of $25 or more before next week's show. We'll get a free texturous ingredient to experiment with. Simply use the promo code cooking issue. Oh, sorry, CI69 when placing your order online at ModernistPantry.com.
+
+[23:40] Visit modernistpantry.com today for all of your modernist cooking needs. Alright. Now listen, I love Ferron. All props to Ferron. Love Ferron.
+
+[23:48] All props. But my problem with the texturus line of ingredients is that they don't say on them exactly what they are. So it's hard to sub other things out for it, and it's hard to develop recipes other than the recipes they've printed. So for instance, Ferrand's gel an, it's just called, I don't know if it's called, like gel in or something like that. It's a mixture of two different gel ans.
+
+[24:08] I mean, I happen to know what it is. It's like 25% of the uh of the stretchy high ACEL stuff and 75% of the low ACEL, non stretchy stuff. But I mean it that's my one issue. I wish that they would just tell you exactly what's in it, exactly what's in it. Because people would buy it anyway.
+
+[24:24] You know what I mean? It's not like they'd have to worry. It's not like people would go. You know what I mean? But they he should just tell you exactly what's in it because it's only going to foster better research by cooks.
+
+[24:35] That's my only gripe. Would you agree or disagree? Yes, I agree. She hasn't really she hasn't listened to what I'm saying. She just gonna she just agreed.
+
+[24:40] Yeah. Yeah, but we're doing a show right now. We're doing a show. Anyway. Um I had another uh question about modernist pantry, but I forget.
+
+[24:51] Anyway, they seem like good people. Uh what? Good people. Good peeps. Good people.
+
+[24:56] Okay. Uh yes, I'm an idiot. Okay. Okay. Matthew writes in, hey y'all, pork shoulder I called in about last week.
+
+[25:07] Of course that's three weeks ago now. Came out insanely good. I'm glad. I went for 58 degrees Celsius for about 34 hours. I brined it in a basic salt and sugar brine for twelve hours before cooking.
+
+[25:17] Seared it in a cast iron grill. Griddle sear it seared it in a cast in a cast iron grill? On a cast iron grill, probably. Right? A or a grilled pan, maybe.
+
+[25:25] I'm not sure. Uh, and circulated it with uh olive oil, a bit of reduce vermouth and aromatics. My girlfriend said it was the best meat she ever tasted. Well. I'm not Nastasha, you are you are a messed up individual and this show is not gonna go that way.
+
+[25:38] So I'm just gonna skip on past that. My girlfriend said she was the best meat she ever tasted, uh, so that was good. One thing that surprised me was that the meat was not as pink as I expected it would be at that temperature. It had slight rosiness to it, but not in medium rare appearances I anticipated. Uh that didn't really matter as it was incredibly juicy and tender in a good way.
+
+[25:56] Okay. Uh two things. One, when you cook something at uh at fifty-eight for only a little bit of time, like an hour, uh it's gonna be very uh it's gonna be very pink. When you cook for a long time at fifty eight, it's gonna be rosy, but you're gonna lose uh some of that pinkness. That loss is also gonna be enhanced by the brining.
+
+[26:14] I think the brining uh is gonna firm it and also give you that color change a little more towards the other side. So if you wanted to stay rosier, I would not brine it, but then you won't have the same flavor, right? Or not cook it as long, but then you won't have the same texture. So I just don't think you're gonna get uh that color. Also, Bruno Gusot, I mean I can't even know where this came from because this is pulling out like information he gave me like you know, eight years ago or something like that.
+
+[26:39] But uh says that if you were to store that package uh in very low, low temperature for a long, long time, the rosiness would come back. Weird, right? Mm-hmm. Anyway, uh he told me that a long time ago. Of course, I've never run the test because I don't store uh unfrozen meats for a long, long time, which is not my uh not my thing.
+
+[26:57] My question today, however, this is going back to what Matthew was saying, is about pork shanks. I'm gonna be cooking about 30 pork shanks for an upcoming event I'm doing. I'm leaning towards circulating them. I'm hoping if I max out my bath size, which is purportedly 30 liters for the sous vide professional, I can do them all in one batch. I plan to brine them overnight, sear them, and then circulate them similarly to the pork shoulder for 34 hours or so, but at a higher temperature, maybe 65.
+
+[27:23] Do you think this is a good time and temperature strategy? My goal is for them to be super tender and delicious, but not necessarily falling apart like a traditional braise. The second part of this question is on deep frying them post braise. The location of the event does not have great ventilation. I'd like to deep fry the shanks as far ahead of the guests arriving as possible so that if I smoke the place out, uh it happens when people aren't around.
+
+[27:43] After frying, I plan on letting them cool on racks and then heat them up in a cider agro dolce glaze. Ooh, more time. Uh glaze just before serving. Do you think they can hold next page? Well, for a couple of hours after deep frying and before serving.
+
+[27:57] Obviously, they won't be as crispy, but my only alternative would be to use the crappy broiler in the household type oven present at the event to post sear them at service time. Uh okay. And he says he would have called in this question, but uh hopefully, as I answer this question, he's eating Lulo in Cartagena, which is good. Lulo is the amazing fruit that they eat in Colombia that makes great drinks. Anyway, I hope the Lulo is delicious.
+
+[28:19] Uh I'm sure it is. You know, I can now find frozen Lulo in New York. I bought some. It was okay. It wasn't.
+
+[28:24] I bought my local supermarket, had like a package of frozen Lulo that I guess got shipped by mistake from Columbia. I don't know. But it wasn't as good as the fresh. I mean, it would probably make an okay drink, but it wasn't great. Anyway, so uh, first of all, 65 Celsius is I think too high.
+
+[28:38] I think you're gonna want to do 62 or 63 Celsius. 65 is a little bit over, and it's the point where you're gonna get a lot of contraction and you're gonna get uh a lot more moisture loss from um the muscle. I would do six, I think 30 34 hours might be okay. You might want to go like a little bit longer, and I would do it at like uh 62, maybe 62 in that range. That's gonna give you a nice not pink, really uh nice texture uh if you cook it for 34 to 48, okay?
+
+[29:10] Uh but 65 seems a little high to me. Um and it won't fall apart. These things will never, though they'll get mushy, but they won't break apart like a traditional braise. And the reason why is because the collagen, even though it gets soft and it turns to gelatin, doesn't melt out of the structure, so it doesn't literally fall apart because it hasn't lost its structure. The structure's just gotten soft.
+
+[29:30] Okay. Uh as regards frying them post braise, what I would do, you can you can pull them out of the bag. I would pull them out of the bag, give them a quick fry before the people come to develop a little bit of a crust on the outside, and then I would uh throw them into a uh I would throw them directly into the sauce in Ziploc bags and keep them warm in your circulator. That's what I would do. Uh because you yeah, you're gonna lose the crust, but it's gonna soak up the sauce.
+
+[29:57] I wouldn't keep them on racks because look, it's not the crust that's most important on something like a braise, it's the kind of sauce and the integration. So I would let it integrate with the sauce. I would just put the crust to give you a little bit of variation between the outside and the inside. Um anyway, that's that's my that's my opinion. The other thing is is if you're going to uh cook it this way and you want it to taste the most like tender meat and not like a traditional braise, I would do the low temperature on the stuff without a sauce at all.
+
+[30:26] And without salting it, although if you're gonna brine it, it's gonna be brine, it's gonna have salt in it. But if you want it to taste the most like f like fresh, like fresh pork, but only a shank and cooked, then I wouldn't salt it at all, and I would just add the salt and everything else went right before you fry it, and then bag it with the sauce and the sauce will soak in. That's up to you. But if you are gonna cook it with a sauce in the bag, then you're gonna have to hyper hyper reduce that sauce. Or otherwise when the meat gives up its juices, it's gonna taste poached, which is I don't think what you're looking for.
+
+[30:56] Another thing I'd be very careful of is if you're gonna max out your bags, uh your your if you're gonna max out the size of your circulator, right? You're gonna have a problem because w you could possibly have a problem because all of the meat is touching each other and in the center, it's gonna take a long time for the uh meat to get up to cooking temperature, right? So if it's sitting there for and it takes a good five, six, seven hours for the center of the of the packages of meat, because there's no circulation there, to come up to temperature, you could have a problem with uh lacto uh lactic acid bacteria growing in that bag. Probably won't kill you, right? But it's gonna smell terrible, and you're gonna get puffed up bags.
+
+[31:36] And this is what happens all the time when people uh pack their circulators too tight and they're cooking at a low temperature uh for a long period of time. So what's the remedy? Uh there are several remedies. One, don't pack it too tight. Uh the second one is to uh take a pan of uh a pot of simmering water and put the bags in for like into the simmering water for like 35 45 seconds, right?
+
+[32:04] Uh when the meat is still cold, and uh and you're killing the bacteria on the outside without doing too much overcooking, and then put them in the circulator bath, and then you've killed all the bacteria on the outside, and you're not gonna have a problem, right? Make sense? Mm-hmm. Anyway, uh so those are my uh those are my comments. Uh what do you think?
+
+[32:22] Do you think I need to say anything else about that? No, I don't think so. No? Should we go to our second commercial break? Okay.
+
+[32:26] Let's go to our second commercial break. Cooking issues! This is a house that's jackbilly. Remember the south. This was the land that it works by hand.
+
+[32:40] It was the dream of it a bright man. There was a room that was filled with love. It was a love that I was proud of. This is a lot of bad plan on the love of flame old and the house that jackets. The house to justify.
+
+[32:55] Remember the cells. Now won't affect that hell now, love. Yes, it will tell. Yes, it is in the house, it ain't no longer. This is the love that happens battle.
+
+[33:21] The use of it. You know, I brought it on myself and over that. But it's that I did not understand. And welcome back to Cooking Issues. Call your questions to 718-497-2128.
+
+[33:42] 718-497-2128. And the house that Jack built signifying that Jack is back in the studio, people. What's up? Howdy, how you doing? So I take back my laziness comments.
+
+[33:51] Awesome. Oh wow, really? I missed all that. I was, you know, when you're not here, I rough you up. That's how it works.
+
+[33:57] Oh man. Even though I wasn't here last week, so like You should hear what we say when you're not here. Oh, on the radio. Oh man. Oh, we're gonna have one of our listeners is gonna come in on on uh in the week of March 6th on a Tuesday, and hopefully gonna be served by Indy Jesus.
+
+[34:13] We have to check his schedule. Right? Anyway. Uh Ken Ingber, long uh long time listener, Ken Ingber, writes in and uh says that uh he's asked me several questions about the uh new uh coffee machine, the Breville 900XL, which I say I've never tried. He bought one and and he likes it.
+
+[34:30] So maybe we'll get to try it someday. I don't know. You know, Dave Chang and uh and uh Christina Tozie from Milk Bar, Breville loves those guys. Like, if you walk into Milk Bar, uh Commissary, right? Uh it is basically it's like a Breville factory.
+
+[34:46] There's like so many Breville things there. But uh again, I have no I have no comments, but uh Ken seems to enjoy his he's writing in this is a long term. Someday I will try one and I will give my review on here of the new. But I think I think they're going to stop by the bar this week. Brevel people.
+
+[35:02] Yes. And we'll give you one. Well, look, the the gig with the Breville thing is that uh it was apparently designed by a uh like a barista, like an award-winning barista to be good for what they want. Again, but you know, my problem is is that and it's the same problem we we lost that sponsor that time is because if I don't know whether a product's good or bad, I won't say whether it's good or bad. No, you'll just say that's probably bad.
+
+[35:24] That's not true. But look, those guys, I'm I'm not gonna mention any names, but those guys who stopped being our sponsor after I started wise cracking made marketing claims that did not make sense to me. Right? I mean, I mean, you know, I I do have my limits, Nastasha. Anyway, uh okay.
+
+[35:42] Have an interesting question in uh from uh Julie Madras of what how do you think you pronounce that town in Wisconsin? Beloit? Mm-hmm. Beloit? It's not Belois.
+
+[35:54] Hopefully not. Hopefully, hopefully it's not pronounced like the actual French is pronounced. Really? Yeah, I guess not, right? Beloit!
+
+[36:03] Anyway, uh Julie Madris writes in I have been looking forever for a website that could show me all of the fish that are skin fish. Uh now pay attention, skin fish. My mother has allergies to shellfish and scale fish, and we find it very hard to get straight answers from the grocery stores, seeing how half of them are not uh what's it, half of them are not manned like it used to be in the meat department. So in other words, there's no one there to tell you what's going on. So I thought it would be right, uh I thought it'll be uh right to you with your knowledge about food to see if I can enlist your help.
+
+[36:32] We try very hard not to give her something wrong, and she just loves fish. All right. This is an interesting uh question. So uh off the top of my head, before I did any research, right? It seems to me that it's actually not the scales.
+
+[36:47] I'm gonna let's ignore the shellfish, because shellfish you know what to stay away from. So the question is scale fish versus skinfish. Now, m nine I've my right off the top of my head, for me it says 99%. It's not the actual scales, right, that is the problem. It's just that scale fish are the problem, which means that all fish that uh in that same group are the ones that cause the problem.
+
+[37:09] And sure enough, that's the case. Uh most fish allergies, right? Fin fish allergies, are uh alert uh allergies to certain uh proteins, parvalbumin, certain parvalbumins that are in in the f in fish, uh, and they cause a um uh an allergy because your body develop or some people's body develop a specific antibodies to them and they have allergic reactions, okay? Now, here's how the world uh works. Uh basically you gotta look at the evolutionary chain.
+
+[37:40] So you go keep going back in the evolutionary chain uh to the point where the first fish developed those proteins that they're uh that your mom's allergic to, and then any of the fish that branch off from that, she's probably allergic to, right? So it turns out that uh what she's most likely allergic to is teleost fish, right? And teleost fish are uh fish with what's called ray scales, uh, and so they're they're they're scales, normal, normal scales. So all you need to do to find out whether or not uh you should stay away from it, most likely, is to look and see whether it is a teleost fish. Now, what's a non-teleost fish?
+
+[38:20] Eels, lamp rays, sharks, right? Like any cartilaginous fish, right? Typically, not gonna probably be probably be a problem. Uh anything that's not uh part of that group. Now, there's also most likely a bunch of teleost fish that are okay.
+
+[38:37] I just don't happen to know what they are. And for the research backup on this, I found it uh an article that's called uh Quantitative Eliza for determination of fish in foods by uh Christian Fest and Christian Plassen, 2007, uh, where they were trying to figure out uh ways to measure with an Eliza test uh to look for these uh allergens that are in food. And um basically what they say is that the uh allergic reactions are strongest for taxonomically closely related species, right? Uh, due to the major uh allergen in fish, which is parvalbumin, and that accounts for over 95% of all uh allergens, uh fish allergy. Uh uh it's basically 95% of the allergies uh related to fin fish are because of this uh protein, right?
+
+[39:29] And so parvalbumins are found in great amounts in the white muscles of lower vertebrates uh and lesser and higher vertebrates. Um anyway, so that is uh that so just look up and see what kind of uh fish you're dealing with, and you shouldn't have a problem, right? Nastasha's like that makes no goddamn sense. No, no, no, no, no, no. So Nastasha, I'm gonna have to look up from your email for a minute because we're gonna talk about the bar now on the way up.
+
+[39:58] He's upsetting you. Why is he upsetting you? Why is he upsetting you? Why Ken is our Ken is our good friend? He says, it looks like Rebel's giving you your own 900 XL.
+
+[40:08] Right. And I was like, yes, but I didn't want to say that they're giving it to us 100% because it's not for certain. And then you said, Dave is right, stop reading your email. And I was like, Well then don't email me in the middle of the show. Wow.
+
+[40:20] Wow, you see, now, Ken, you now you know what I have to deal with on a daily basis. It was right on Ken's side. Oh, squarely on Ken's side. Look, a listener, look, a listener is just like in a restaurant is your customer. They're always right.
+
+[40:37] Right? Am I wrong about this? Anyway. Jack's not answering. J Jack's not sure.
+
+[40:43] We have a lot of different listeners on this network. Anyway, I'm coming down quir squarely on uh on uh Ken's side on this one. Anywho. So let's talk about the bar for a minute. All right?
+
+[40:55] Mm-hmm. So what what do you want to say about the bar? Nothing. It's a great space. There's usually a wait, so make sure you get there early.
+
+[41:03] Or call or uh can we call in advance? Can you call in this show up and put your name in the water? Our bar manager is Tristan Willie, who is at uh you know, Death and Co's uh sister bar, Morie Margot, and also at PDT. Uh and he's having a uh a great time, I think. We have um we're we're we're pulling out we haven't pulled out all the stops yet.
+
+[41:23] We still have some stops left to pull, you know, i if you were using organ terms. We still have some stops left to pull. But uh right now we have um four carbonated things on the menu and uh I think we do a pretty good job of carbonating. I don't have I'm not I haven't put on my new carbonation system yet. First of all, I'm building a new one that's gonna be like it's gonna be really good.
+
+[41:46] Let me just put it this way it's gonna be really good. I was gonna say, it's the Cadillac of Carbonation Systems, but that makes me look bad because it's better than it's like the Maybach. It's the Maybach of co uh was that good? Is that what they're called? That really expensive car?
+
+[41:58] Anyway, a really good carbonation system putting in. For now, though, we're using um old school bottle carbonation, uh, the same as everyone uses with the carbonator caps, the liquid bread carbonator caps, just because that's the best system uh that I've used so far. Uh the system that I've built, my first generation system that I built is maybe 80 to 90% as good as that, uh, but has the advantage of being a la minute. But until I'm a hundred percent as good as the bottle or better, I'm not gonna use it. Does that make sense?
+
+[42:26] Um we have a uh finally a legally uh a legally roto vaped uh product on our menu. We have the uh horseradish which goes into our lady of the night, which is a really I think it's a good cocktail, um, which also has it's basically a clarified bloody merry, but just you know, everything's clarified. The Worcestershire's clarified, the tomatoes clarified, the sriracha is clarified, and then we use the horseradish distillate. So we have rotovap, we have the uh centrifuge, we're figuring out how bar prep works to have all of those things prepped for a bar. It's kind of halfway between a kid's prep and a bar prep.
+
+[42:59] But it's pretty interesting, and I think we've ironed out um most of the kinks as far as service goes. So uh I welcome any questions on kind of flow at the bar or how it's working or what we're doing. And we're liquid nitrogen chilling almost every dang glass, right? That's the bartender seem to enjoy that, right? People seem to enjoy it.
+
+[43:16] Oh, and we have the red hot poker on the menu. I've never had a red-hot poker. The red hot poker, for those of you that don't know what I'm talking about, is basically a it's a poker that is red hot. It's a uh a stick that I build that uh heats up to about 1500 Fahrenheit, and you plunge it into a drink and the drink catches on fire. And I've used them at the SCI before, but they've never been on this long this often before.
+
+[43:37] So uh we're really putting them through their paces and seeing how to make them make them work. I streamlined it. They now cost less than a hundred dollars for me to make a piece, and so hopefully uh we can uh the bartenders don't seem to mind it, right? No. No, not anymore.
+
+[43:51] No one's gotten burnt. Mm-mm. Anyway, uh it's a lot of fun. So come in, have some red hot poker drinks, have some uh have some liquid nitrogen chilled glasses but most of all at Booker and Dax at a new bar we're just trying to make delicious cocktails we use a lot of tech but really the tech doesn't matter it's all about delicious cocktails on a final note now that I have that thing uh started up and I have a all of a lot of a little about a lot of other things in motion I'm gonna try to get the the blog back up and running again. Nastasha's giving me my whatever face she has two faces the vegan face slash vodka face is a face of kind of disgust like she just stepped on a roach whereas uh whereas this other lake is a look is a look of eh whatever you know whatever right that's the blog starting look but I gotta figure a better name for it anyway uh it's good to be back sorry about the two week wait uh be back next week sure thing cooking issues uh thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network you can find all of our archived programs on heritageradio network dot com as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows you can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching heritage radio networks in the iTunes store you can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up to date news and information thanks for listening you got my head all twisted and I guess can't get it straight
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+[0:03] Broadcasting live from Roberta's in Bushwood, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live. On time. On time and live from the Heritage Radio Network here in the back of Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn.
+
+[0:35] Joined as usual with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez in the engineering room. We have Jack and Carlos with us today. Hello. Hello. Call in all your questions to 7184972128.
+
+[0:44] Is that right? Yeah. 7184972128. Uh cooking questions. Any kind of questions, really.
+
+[0:49] We'll take anything you got. Is that true, Nastash? That's true. We take them all. Okay.
+
+[0:53] So, uh anything good happening? No. We only have 45 minutes, so you should get through. You see, but that they the custom the customers don't care about that. Okay.
+
+[1:01] Yeah. Uh you can like save that for the break. So the uh so and i there actually we're gonna we're gonna there there are some there are some listener comments on Nastasha later, which we'll get into. Um yeah, it should be fun. So uh this is the second week of uh the Booker and Dax bar that uh we opened, Booker and Dax at some.
+
+[1:19] How do you think it's going there, Nastasha? Oh wonderful. Well, from a drink standpoint. Great. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
+
+[1:25] It's a it's it's it's different. Actually, uh, you know, starting something, it's uh it's a lot of fun. Anyway. Hello, Dave and Nastasha from Matthew. I'm a longtime listener and a first-time emailer.
+
+[1:35] I was recently gifted uh with a um okay now here's it's a knife, right? We're talking about a knife here. I've never actually pronounced the brand out out loud. It's very well regarded knife. It's it's spelled Glestain, but I believe it's pronounced Glyston.
+
+[1:49] G-L-E-U-S-T-A-N-S-T-A-I-N. Anyway, uh I was recently gifted uh with a Glyson uh Gyoto, which is a Japanese uh it's a basically a Japanese chef's knife, like look looks like a Western style knife, but it's Japanese. So uh a um Glyston uh uh Gyoto knife, it's sharpened on one side, more on that later, and it's left-handed, uh, which means they paid a lot more for it because to get a left, first of all, like culturally in Japan, you know, there's no such thing as left-handed. It's like what's wrong with you? You like use your right hand.
+
+[2:18] You know what I mean? So like the left-handed one, and and Japanese knives typically are handed because they're not uh sharpened uh with uh symmetrical bevel the way uh Western knives are. But again, more on that later. Uh my question is how do I properly steal this? And uh how do I properly uh how do I properly sharpen it on a stone?
+
+[2:34] Uh any other general techniques, tips for using a sharpening stone would be great too, as I am new to self-sharpening uh and having nicer knives. Thank you, Matthew. Okay, look. Uh okay. Traditional Japanese knives, and first of all, if you want to we're we'll talk more about corn later, but anyone who comes into uh New York needs to stop by Corin K K-O-R-I-N, their knife uh place because it's fantastic.
+
+[3:02] And you can see firsthand uh a bunch of different styles of knives and really get a feel for kind of what the differences are. It's a fantastic place. Uh so it's it's in uh down near where the trade center used to be. Uh and so if you um a Japanese traditional knife is sharpened, literally sharpened basically on one side only, almost like a western chisel. Uh these knives are typically heavier and thicker on the spine, uh, and they have like a very uh very very they're very, very sharp because with the one angle, that one angle is not uh very big.
+
+[3:35] And so you have you have a very, very sharp but fairly fragile uh blade. I highly, I highly recommend those things. They're extremely easy to learn to sharpen because you basically all you have you have a very large bevel that you can see very easily. You sharpen that until a burr is raised raised up, right? Which means that you've taken all the way across.
+
+[3:54] You can feel it. You draw your thumb uh across the opposite side from the side you were sharpening. Uh, you draw it uh down over the edge, and you can feel a burr, a little curl being raised up around it, and you know, uh you don't want to do it too much because you're you know curling over the edge, but you feel a light burr, and you know that you've sharpened all the way down. So when you're sharpening a knife like this, or any knife really, you feel all the way, and you'll see a chef do this when they're when they're working, they'll take their thumb and they'll prick it over the blade all the way down. And what they're ensuring is that they're a burr has been raised all the way along the edge of that blade, and that you haven't sharpened too much in one place and too little in another.
+
+[4:28] And then the key to the the one I'm talking about, the Japanese style, or anything is basically recreating exactly the bevel that was put on there when they uh sharpened the knife. Now, the beauty of a traditional Japanese knife is you get that one bevel, which is fairly easy to see, and then you just turn the blade over and it's almost flat on that. In fact, the back side of the blade is concave. So you just put the you just lift the back spine ever so slightly off your stone and swipe it a couple of times to take the burr off, and you have a fantastically sharp knife, right? I love uh Japanese style knives.
+
+[5:00] I went to Corin. Unfortunately, their prices have gone um up because the yen is uh I guess doing well against the dollar. So a knife that I bought like you know, three, four years ago for around a hundred dollars is now like a hundred and eighty dollars or something like that. But um if you are going to use a knife every day in a work environment, uh the good old-fashioned carbon uh i.e. they will stain, they are not stainless.
+
+[5:22] Japanese traditional knives are fantastic to work with uh because you know that after that shift of working, you're just gonna uh you know take care of your knives and before or after sharpen them uh and it takes very little time to sharpen them, bring them back into edge, and they just they're fantastically fun to cut with and they're awesome. Uh unless someone borrows your uh Japanese vegetable knife and hacks a bone with it and uh shatters the blade, which is what happened to me. I want I didn't find who it was because they literally went into my knife kit at the school, took it out of my knife kit when I wasn't there, uh hacked it up, put it away wet, and I got a rusted broken knife, and it's incredibly depressing. But anyway, so they're extremely easy to sharpen, and I highly recommend them. Now, on the exact opposite end of the scale, is a traditional Western knife.
+
+[6:06] A traditional western knife is sharpened with an identical bevel on both sides. So no matter what the angle of the cutting edge is, right, which is determined by how you hold the blade against the stone as you're sharpening, no matter what it is, it's the same on both sides of the blade. Which means a Western knife, there's no such thing as a right-handed knife or a left-handed knife because it's symmetrical around it around its cutting axis. These are also fairly easy to sharpen because all you have to do is get that angle right. Okay.
+
+[6:35] Uh now, uh you have your Western, you have your Japanese. Now, the Japanese uh knife manufacturers invented a new style uh while ago. I don't know exactly when. It's basically a hybrid, it's a Japanese Western knife. And Japanese Western knives are insane in that they are not sharpened symmetrically necessarily.
+
+[6:55] The other thing is that there is no uh manufacture, there's no like uh cross-manufacture standard for what the asymmetrical bevel is. Uh and so you have to actually look at your knife. And what you typically do, if you're not uh good at seeing what the edge is, uh, you just take a uh a sharpie and you mark on the edge of the blade with a sharpie so you can see where the bevel is on both sides, and then you take your knife gently against a very, very fine stone, and you you try to get the angle right and you look at the sharpie and you see whether or not you've worn away the sharpie uh flat across the bevel of the knife. And if you have, you've gotten the same angle that the manufacturer made. Now, uh typical uh the also like the way that they specify uh angles is insane.
+
+[7:37] So when you talk about a bevel, you'll hear people say things like 7030 or 90 10. And what that means, and by the way, your knife probably isn't sharpened on one side only, it's probably like an like somewhere between a 90-10 and a 70-30. And what that means is is that 70% of the bevel on the knife is on one side versus the other, right? So if it was a zero and a hundred, then it would be a hundred percent flat blade, which basically none of those Western style Japanese knives are. Uh and then uh, you know, if 10% of the bevel is on one side and 90% on the other, it's a it's a 90-10, and you get the picture.
+
+[8:12] But but what that doesn't tell you is what the entire angle of the of the edge is, right? So if you were to sharpen a Western style knife and you were to have so that the bevel would be equal, that's what we call 50-50, right? Then you would say, okay, what's my total uh edge angle? And an older knife with kind of these, you know, uh less modern steel, the bigger the angle, right, the less fragile your blade is, but the duller it is. And so uh newer steels you can get a total angle all the way down to like 17 degrees.
+
+[8:46] Some people go down to like 15 degrees, it's cra and I my knives won't handle that. But like older style knives, I'm typically having it like 30 degrees, which is very wide for a modern standard. Not as uh easier to they don't break, but uh you know, not not nearly as sharp. So you have to specify what the total angle is on the on the blade and then whether or not that bevel is skewed uh one one way or the other. Personally, I find Japanese Western knives a pain in the butt to sharpen.
+
+[9:11] I don't like sharpening them. I've never been good at sharpening them. I'm very good at sharpening Western knives. Well, not very good. I'm good enough at sharpening western knives, and I'm I'm pretty you know uh proficient with Japanese uh knives, but I find the Japanese Westerns difficult.
+
+[9:24] Now, the advantage theoretically of the asymmetric grinding is uh that it cuts differently, and so it's designed to cut for a left-handed person or a right-handed person, and bear in mind that in in Japan, when you're cutting that way, you're making very uh specific slices. And so if you were cutting with your right hand, the slice is always gonna fall off on the right side. And so the bevel is designed to facilitate that kind of that kind of cutting. Uh your particular knife, uh, the Glysen knives are well known for what's called a grantin edge as well, which is a scallopy uh scallopy divots that are taken out of the blade. Those things have nothing to do with sharpness that uh reduces um stickiness.
+
+[9:59] Supposedly, and I've never used one, but uh, you know, I have a lot of friends that swear by it. Uh basically those little dimples prevent your food from sticking to the blade. Anyway, um as for sharpening, it's oh by the way, uh, if some of these knives can be re-ground to be 50-50 if you want to sharpen them like a traditional knife. Hold on a sec. Was it a collar or something like that?
+
+[10:18] Are you just pulling on me because I'm something's wrong with my sleeves? She thought my shirt was polyester, so she stopped me in the middle of the thing. It's not, it's cut. Anyway. Uh so uh so anyway, so you can re-grind if you if it turns out that you can't get used to sharpening an asymmetric bevel, you can have these knives re-ground.
+
+[10:36] Some knives take to that better than others, and there's professionals that'll do it for you. When you're in New York next, go to Corinne and or buy their knife sharpening video, it's insane. They're in they're insane. Uh now here's another thing. Don't believe the hype you hear on the internet about different kind of grits and different, you know, it's it's insane.
+
+[10:54] First of all, there's no uh international standard for what grits are. So people who are buying Japanese water stones have fantastically high grits, think that they're and a higher grit means a finer particle. They think that their uh sharpening stones are whooping butt on all of the American uh stones that we have. The fact of the matter is is that the Japanese grit definition is wildly different and not even applicable to American grit definitions. So you it's not a one-to-one correspondence.
+
+[11:19] So if you have a 3,000, uh if you have a 3,000 uh Japanese grit water stone, it uh is not mean that it's three times as sharp as an American stone rated at 1,000. All right. So just bear that in mind. Here's another thing. Japanese water stones are a pain in the butt.
+
+[11:33] Any real stone needs to be dressed a bunch to keep it flat. Uh they need to be watered or oiled when you're using them. I find them uh to be uh a pain in the butt. I don't I don't use them. I use DMT diamond stones, which uh and I use their duo sharp uh 10-inch bench uh hone, which is big.
+
+[11:50] You want a big, big stone to sharpen on because it means that you can get more of a swipe without having to lift your blade and reposition it, which means you can be more accurate and everything's faster, everything's more pleasant. The DMT stones are awesome because they're small, they're light, and they store uh for their size, and they store very easily. They last forever and they never need to be flattened again. Uh some people don't like it because they're purists, but uh everyone I've handed it to, including uh Nils, was like, you know, who's like, ah man, that that no one wants that. And he used it, he bought one.
+
+[12:21] Right. So you want to get the if you get it though, you want to get the fine and the extra fine, which is the green dot and the red dot, and you flip it over and you start on the coarser, which is the fine, and then you finish uh with a light, light couple of strokes on the on the extra fine side. Those things will last forever. It takes a little bit of a break in before they get as fine as they're gonna get because there's some errant particles of diamond that are bonded on the surface, and once those get knocked off, uh it's very consistent, very good. I I like it a lot, but you know, your Japanese uh knife buddies will will think that you're a Philistine, but crap on them because your knives are gonna be incredibly sharp.
+
+[12:56] Uh what do you think, Staz? It's a good job. Good. All right. Now, uh is there anything else I want to talk about in that or is that good?
+
+[13:04] Good. All right. All right. Go to Corin. I wish the prices hadn't gone up so much.
+
+[13:09] It's crazy. Uh two. Hi, Dave and Nastasha. Uh, first of all, a hardy Mazlotov on your new venture, which is the the bar. I hope to check it out next time I'm in town.
+
+[13:18] It's a bummer that I just missed the opening. Thank you so much for your advice on how to make a recent New York trip uh culinarily satisfying. By the way, this is from Brian who called us earlier. Um unfortunately, I didn't have as much time as I wished, but highlights included the crude and gelato at Edley. Have you had crude idly?
+
+[13:33] No. Really? Uh I can't I can't stand the lines at Ely. It's crazy. It's like a madhouse.
+
+[13:39] It's like I feel like uh like a like it's a madhouse. Yeah. They must make more money than God, those guys. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[13:43] Uh the great uh not that God makes money, he doesn't need money. Or she. Yeah. Uh the great spices at uh La Boîte Epice, uh coming in from the freezing cold to a deliciously warm noodles at Toto Raman, which I haven't been to yet. You've been there?
+
+[13:56] Yeah, it's in my neighborhood. Was it good? Mm-hmm. Yeah, enjoyed. Good.
+
+[13:59] Uh and uh the corn cookie from Milk Bar. Our buddies at Milk Bar. The corn cookie is in fact my favorite cookie there. Uh and a visit to JB Prince. In JB Prince, Chef Superstore.
+
+[14:10] I love that place. Uh which needed a tour guide to explain to me what all the cool crap was that was in there. It didn't say crap, it said something else, but I can't say it on the show. Uh today my question is about dry aging various dry aging various meats and fish. I've heard of dry edged beef, of course, but uh this post, which is referenced from uh Chuck Eats, you know, well known blog, uh, about a meal at San Francisco's uh Saison restaurant references aging fish and poultry.
+
+[14:33] I'm especially interested in aging fish. How can I do it safely? Can I age fill laser steaks or just the whole fish? The article referenced a seven day aging for fish killed via via Ikajime, more on that later, as well as an 80-day smoked tuna belly that had been aged and smoked periodically. It also mentions aging pigeons for 21 days, 43 days, 50 days, and 73 days.
+
+[14:52] It also mentions that they were aged with their viscera intact for a while first before dry aging, and what does that do? It also mentions that one of the pigeons had been salted to encourage fermentation. How can I guarantee that it won't spoil? I read in the latest Lucky Peach that McGee recommends dry aging take place in a dedicated fridge with the meat hung and using primal cuts. But how can I do this method at home with poultry and fish?
+
+[15:12] Okay. Uh thanks so much, Brian. Uh you ever watch Shogun when you were a kid? No. Funny.
+
+[15:18] So, you know, Western style uh, you know, w western style game birds typically are killed and then hung until what they're called high. And what that means is until they stink and they're about to fall apart. Uh and uh one of the uh funny scenes when you're like you know, a ten year old watching Shogun on the on the on the TV show is the Western guy, I guess Portuguese guy shows up, puts a pigeon up, hangs it, and uh the villagers think that uh this is spoiled, and so someone like basically, you know, literally takes it down and then uh commits sepaku for for the act of ruining the guest pigeon. And when I was young, I was like, man, that's crazy. And I'm sure that's just some sort of like weird, like uh it's gotta be some sort of weird racist thing.
+
+[16:00] Because no one's gonna commit seppiku over a pigeon. I just don't think it's gonna happen. I just don't buy it. Do you buy that? No.
+
+[16:06] I mean, some sort of punishment maybe for ruining the guy's pigeon, but sepiku? Really? Anyway. 70s racism, there's nothing better. Okay.
+
+[16:15] Um, but uh as far uh ikajime, so ikajime on fish, the technique with ikijime is you take a uh and large tuna, they always do it on because it's very expensive fish. I've said this a million times before, so I apologize. You can just glaze over for a minute while I talk about it. Is you destroy the brain uh and then you do a uh technique called uh shinkanuki, which means uh no spine, and you shove a needle uh down the spine of the fish, destroy the spinal cord. Uh what you're doing when you destroy the spinal cord is stopping any messages, electrical messages from getting to the muscles.
+
+[16:47] And what that's doing is preserving the ATP, the energy in the muscles. And what that's doing is allowing the muscles to go into rigor later and softer. The faster you deplete the ATP in a muscle, the faster and the harder it goes into rigor mortis. Fish flesh, in particular, because it's so delicate compared to meat fleshes, tends to rip itself apart uh during rigor if the rigor is too hard, and when it comes out of rigor, you're gonna get more weeping, more loss of the of uh juices, more gaping in the flesh, and just an overall not as good texture. The flavor's also affected.
+
+[17:19] I don't really know why uh from a from a scientific point of view, why the flavor would be affected, but in side by side taste tests, it is. So that's what the Ikajime is. Now, very widely held misconception that fish is uh better uh fresh. Uh fish is best when fish is best, not when it's necessarily the freshest. So when I go into a market and I see a bunch of you know fish and they're so psyched that they just got the fish off the boat, but the fish is in hard, hard rigor because of the way it was killed and died, and you can see it's curled up and in a hard, hard rigor.
+
+[17:44] I'm like, that fish is not the best it's gonna be. Sure, it's the freshest maybe, but uh the texture isn't necessarily the best it's gonna be. And if for any of you that ever cooked a fish that's in rigor mortise, uh it's quite hard and doesn't have the kind of tenderness that we expect with it with a fish. So almost all fish, like especially larger fishes, take a long time to come out of rigor. So things like salmon, things like tuna, you would never eat them hyper hyper fresh because they have to go into rigor and come out again and soften up and be excellent.
+
+[18:18] With Ikajima, I've run tests on smaller Ikajime, and they are clearly better the second day after they're killed, uh, and good the third day after they're killed. Larger fish like tuna, it's typical to go many days and salmon many days to get the optimal, optimal texture on it. Now, the bad news is with fish is that the minute you reach that optimal taste and texture, it goes rapidly downhill. So you have to know kind of exactly where to serve it. So the real high-end sushi joints uh know exactly how old each piece of fish is, and they're not serving you the freshest fish, they're serving you the fish that's at its peak of flavor.
+
+[18:51] And for each species of fish and for each way that it's killed, the time that it's best to eat it is different. And that is part of the great art and mist mystique and mystical power of the uh sushi chef is to know that kind of thing. Um as regards the longer age stuff, like a tuna belly, these are typically cured products that aren't going to go uh spoil, and they can last as long as you'd like, and there you're fighting against how dry is it gonna be and how much is the taste changing, and most of the taste changing is some of it's gonna be due to protein breakdown, obviously, but also fat breakdown, especially in something like tuna. Now, the reason that McGee recommends uh pull cuts or primal cuts is because A, they're gonna lose moisture faster, and for dry aging something like beef, you don't want it to get dried out like a jerky. You want the moisture to stay inside, you're gonna lose some, and that's gonna increase and concentrate the flavors, but you don't want to lose a lot.
+
+[19:39] And also most of the spoilage and funkiness is gonna be on the outside. So the larger the piece of meat, uh the bigger the bigger it's gonna be after you trim off whatever's on the outside, the less loss you're gonna get. And also remember, the inside of meat is sterile. There's not a lot of bacteria in there, and so it's not going to spoil. The outside's gonna get a little dry, therefore the bacteria aren't gonna grow too much on the outside of the of the thing.
+
+[20:02] It's not like a swamp, you know what I mean. You don't want to keep it too too humid. Uh, and then uh, and then after that, you can just age it, and you can age it for a long, long, long, long, long, long, long time. Now, on birds, if you keep the viscera, now I have uh shot a pheasant, and uh the the viscera got punctured by a baby. I didn't really know what the hell I was doing, you know, not B, whatever they call it, shot from a shotgun.
+
+[20:26] And uh we we hung that thing up for three days, and man, did the inside of that thing stink. I almost vomited when I gutted that thing and and plucked the feathers because the stench was just unfreaking real. Now it still tasted good because I soaked it in a salt solution afterwards, scrubbed out the inside, and it was okay. And I cut away the parts where the uh visceral juices had hit the meat where the uh gun had uh gone in. I looked at that uh Chuck Eats uh uh blog post, and all of those birds were smothered basically, so there was no chance for the viscera to leak into the cavity and cause a lot of awful bacterial spoilage.
+
+[21:01] The inside of the bird is sterile, except for the stuff that's on the inside of the alimentary canal, which is full of bacteria. So I don't know exactly why leave it in uh for a couple of days. Maybe it increases the funk, does a little bit of something, then cut it open. I would bet they probably, even though you say some of them are unsalted, I would bet they salt it a little bit to dry out the outside of the meat. And then the inside that hasn't been cut is relatively sterile and can be especially if there's air coming around it, getting around it, is not gonna really spoil, it's just gonna get funkier and funkier and funkier.
+
+[21:32] Uh that make any dang sense. Yeah. All right. So listen, we're gonna go to our first commercial break and we'll come back with more cooking issues. Soy el cantante.
+
+[22:13] Lo mejor del repertorio. Jack, what was that? Hector Laveau. Nice. And welcome back to Cookie.
+
+[22:52] What'd you say? Oh, the song was El Cantante. That just means the song, right? The singer. The singer.
+
+[22:57] Yeah. The singer. Alright. The singer sings the song. Yeah.
+
+[23:00] Is this a Barry Manalo reference or is this prior to Barry Manilow? I think it's prior. If we have another break, are you gonna do the I write I uh sing the song write the song, Trevor? Yeah, sure. All right.
+
+[23:09] Call in all your questions to 7184972128. That's 7184972128. Did I say that right? Anyway. Today's show is brought to you by Modernist Pantry, supplying innovative ingredients for the modern cook.
+
+[23:21] They're back. They like us. For a while they were like, eh man, not so much as cooking issues. I don't think so. Anyway.
+
+[23:25] Uh do you love to experiment with new cooking techniques and ingredients, but hate to overspend for pounds of supplies when only a few grams are needed per application? Modernist Pantry has a solution. They offer a wide range of modern ingredients and packages that make sense for the home cook and enthusiast. Again, whatever. And most cost only around five bucks, saving you time, money, and storage space.
+
+[23:45] Whether you're looking for hydrocolloids, pH buffers, or even meat glue, you'll find it at Modernist Pantry. And if you need something that they don't carry, just ask. Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you. With inexpensive shipping to any country in the world, Modernist Pantry is your one-stop shop for innovative cooking techniques. Modernist Pantry is once again offering free samples of meat glue, meat glue, meat glue.
+
+[24:06] The fans of cooking issues that place an order of $25 or more before next week's show. Simply use the promo code CI70. It's the 70th cooking issue show. Yeah. Dang.
+
+[24:15] When placing your order online at ModernistPantry.com. Visit modernistpantry.com today for all of your modernist cooking needs. Hey, Nastashi, we should call them. We're actually running low on SPL and I don't want to buy a whole 25-liter. Yeah.
+
+[24:26] Yeah. SPL, the magic enzyme. We use that dang thing in everything. Do you know that? Literally, our bar.
+
+[24:33] If you were to suddenly take away Pectin X SPL from us, like all like all of our recipes would would change. I'd have to change all of our recipes. It's true. It's in every damn thing. It's true.
+
+[24:43] It's like some, it's it's not a season, but like, you know, it's like we use it like it's salt. It's everything. Everywhere. Everything is SPL. Ultra SPL.
+
+[24:44] Ultra Ultra SPL. Okay. Uh go to a question here. Dear Nastasha and Dave. This is from Kevin in North Carolina.
+
+[24:59] I like North Carolina. I haven't been a long time. No, you don't. I do like North Carolina. What do you know about North Carolina?
+
+[25:04] I don't like I think you're No, okay. What she's referring to is Nastasha's parents live in uh outside of Los Angeles. Okay, folks. I think you told us. Well, I don't know.
+
+[25:14] But you you make a crack that I don't like North Carolina. Now I have to talk about and they say, okay, look, we don't want we want to escape the humidity. Not that I knew that was a problem in LA because I don't go to LA, but they're like, I want to escape the humidity. And so where do they get where do they buy a house? The outer banks of North Carolina, right?
+
+[25:30] Not even North Carolina properly. The outer banks of North Carolina. And I've only been there a couple times, but it's the most humid place on earth. The giant biting green flies need to learn to swim through the atmosphere because it's so humid. I looked up online as a joke, and one of the people lived down there said, I was walking down the street the other day, and I what do you what do you say?
+
+[25:49] I saw a squirrel chasing. A squirrel chasing a bass into a tree because it's so dang humid over there. And only only a relative of Nastasha would move to the outer banks of North Carolina to escape the humidity. So I love North Carolina, especially uh the eastern side of North Carolina and their barbecue, which is one of the finest uh American traditional products we have to offer. Thank you so much, Nastasha, for trying to make it seem like I don't like North Carolina.
+
+[26:19] Anyway, I recently made venison sausage, and at the time I did not have much pork fat to add to the lean venison. Only about 1.5 pounds per 10 pounds of final product. And as you know, Kevin, that's not enough. The sausage is okay, but would be better with more fat. Yes, it would.
+
+[26:35] I now have a plethora of high quality pork fat, having recently broken down half of an Osabah cross from a quality farm. The sausage was stuffed into collagen casings, smoking, uh smoked and frozen. What do you think about thawing, remixing the sausage uh with more fat and restuffing into casing? Would the texture suffer? Would you re-smoke it?
+
+[26:52] Uh love the show. Keep up the good work, Kevin. Okay. First of all, for those of you that uh aren't down with uh, you know, kind of your pig terminology, uh, an Osabah cross is a cross, usually with a Durak, which is a relatively like good tasting, fatty but commercial pig, with an Osabah pig. Osabah pigs come from uh Osaba Island, well, originally from Osaba Island off the coast of Georgia, where the theory is is that a herd of uh pigs was dropped off there by conquistador style folks, I guess in the 1500s, and uh just left there, and there was no uh in breed, there was no breeding, no selective breeding, then there was no uh influx of new genes, and so they developed their own race based on this kind of Iberian hog that it put there, but they became dwarfs.
+
+[27:35] So it's these tiny and apparently mean son of a bitch uh pigs that have the most incredibly large uh fat cap around the meat that I've ever seen because they they are designed to put on fat like lunatics because they the season, I guess that the feed there is so scarce, and that's why they became dwarfs. There's not a lot of feed there on the island, and so they're incredibly efficient at converting uh um food to fat uh and they're small. So they're very interesting. I first had an Awesaba ham, probably I don't know, like 2004, 2003 or something like that, uh, when they were first coming out. Uh and they're quite interesting, and the Osabah cross is kind of a good uh mix because they're a little bit bigger and um they're they're nice anyway.
+
+[28:19] Uh now on to your question. I'm I would be hesitant about thawing and re-mixing it uh and then restuffing it into a casing from a texture standpoint. I mean, you could try it. First of all, I mean if you have the venison, if you had a circulator, even with that low amount of fat, you could cook it at a low, low temp, uh, and you wouldn't dry it out, even though there's not a sufficient amount of fat there, and then you could split it and like drizzle some fat over it to get that kind of fatty, uncuous taste in. Uh, I mean, I I hesitate when you mix a sausage, obviously everyone knows this.
+
+[28:52] You put in the salt and the uh basically you you create the primary bind and it glues together. I don't know if you've already smoked it, like how cooked through it is with your smoke. Once it's cooked through, it's not gonna bind the same way again. So you could probably maybe add some of that product back into a back in other words. Let's say you were to add like a like a use half of that, grind it up and add it into a fresh sausage mix so you could get the bind proper again with the fat, maybe that would work.
+
+[29:19] But I don't think the texture is gonna be the same. And then if you add more, you could re-smoke it, but then you're gonna be double smoking a portion of it, so you'd have to work around it. I mean, I'm not saying it can't be done. I just don't know if it can be done. Um I don't know.
+
+[29:32] Hey, that's not very helpful, but what are you gonna do? What are you gonna do? It's all I know. Kevin, next time I'll try to be better. Right?
+
+[29:39] Anyway, so much. There's only so much I can do. There's only so much I know. Okay. Hi, Dave, Nastasha, Jack, and Indy Jesus.
+
+[29:48] Wow. Carlos gets no love though, huh? Carlos, you get love from me, brother. There you go. Thank you.
+
+[29:53] So uh but Indie Jesus is in rare form today. He's wearing he's wearing the Jesus Christ Superstar bandana, which I appreciate. It's one of my favorite looks of his. Someday he's gonna come in here with a knife and cut all of our heads off. You know that?
+
+[30:07] Yeah. Not mine, I like him. I like him too. Wait, what? So do I.
+
+[30:11] So do I. What the hell are you talking about? First of all, Nastasha's the one that brings on this uh anyway, whatever. You know, this is like a typical Nastasia trick. This is if any of you guys ever end up working with Nastasha for whatever reason, just know that what she'll do is uh goad you into saying something when nobody's listening and then skewer you for it as though you're a bad human being.
+
+[30:30] That's like classic nostalgia trick. Anyway, uh I have a question that I think has uh got to be right up your alley. I've heard a lot of discussion lately about the huge of use of large spheres of ice in drinks. Some people have told me that uh that uh wait, some people told me things that demonstrate nothing other than that they couldn't pass high school physics. Boom.
+
+[30:48] Uh one person gave up and admitted he just thinks they look cool. Um now I'm intrigued enough to want to know more. So, Dave, as the uh modern modernist mixologist, you are I'm sure uh you you you are I'm sure uh as a modernist mixologist, you are. I'm sure you can save me a ton of time and experimentation. Please clear the air and let the world know what people are trying to achieve with spheres.
+
+[31:08] Is it faster cooling, slower cooling, less water in the drink for the same amount of cooling or something else? And does using spheres instead of other shapes actually accomplish the goal? Okay, thanks, D. Okay, listen. I have a very particular thing.
+
+[31:23] The spheres to me are simply a presentation aid. Nobody is shaking with uh spheres, right? They're they're straight up uh presentation. Uh now, and the way that you make those spheres, by the way, uh well, there's a couple ways. People hand hack the spheres, and those are the rough kind of ones, and then they'll polish them out, uh, you know, polish them out with something warm so that they look a little more spherical uh and then there's the aluminum block melted spheres where someone uh you where you buy a big block of aluminum with a sphere shape in it and the aluminum quickly melts the ice into a sphere so either of those two ways uh are are are possible and what they do is they look cool in the glass right now as regards to cooling the cooling power of ice is not dependent on the shape but the cooling rate is in the sense that um the more surface area you have of ice in contact with the liquid the faster the liquid is going to cool and the faster it's going to dilute there's no such thing as something that cools without diluting or dilutes without cooling when it comes to ice every bit of cooling that a block of ice does in a drink is done by melting and diluting and every bit of diluting that a block of ice does in a drink is uh done by chilling the drink down or by losing to the atmosphere but over the short you know short point it's basically all involved in the drink so a a large uh block of ice spherical or square or whatever right uh will typically because it has uh most of its volume on the inside and less surface area for the amount of ice will chill slower will not be as cold and will be less diluted in your drink if you were to put finely shaved ice in it would have an immense surface area it would chill very quickly but be very diluted, right?
+
+[33:16] And there's no other way around that. You can't, you can't you can't get around that. For a given volume of ice, a sphere is gonna have, I believe, less surface area than a I'd have to do the math. But I believe a sphere will have less surface area than a square for a given volume of ice, and therefore will have uh probably less chilling power and therefore probably less dilution. But the real fact of the matter is is that usually those spheres are quite wet when they're put in, and so there's a lot of dilution anyway.
+
+[33:44] And I would say those effects are minimal. I would say that it is strictly a presentation tool. Now, uh I don't know anyone that shakes a drink with spherical ice, because that would be crazy. But uh, you know, there is a possibility that the texture of a uh shaken drink can be affected by the size and configuration of the ice in the shaker. Uh but that's an entirely different different kind of kind of uh a question.
+
+[34:08] So I don't know whether I've cleared have I cleared the air on that? Yeah. It's pretty clear. Yeah. Made any sense at all?
+
+[34:13] All right. Okay. Uh we have a comment in from Adam Walker in Bowmanville, Ontario. Uh Thanks for taking the time to answer my glucose syrup question last week. I've done some reading, and it is way more complicated than just having enough dextrose to make it sweet and maltodextrin to make it viscous.
+
+[34:32] Even just having a mix of multodextras seems important for having a proper mix of multixtrin seems important for inhibiting crystallization in some applications. Maybe I could adapt some recipes, but it's not going to be identical. I'll just ask modernist pantry to stock it. I'd rather buy from somebody that supports the show. Yeah.
+
+[34:48] Yeah. Uh I did find a great book on the topic uh called The Handbook of Starch Hydrolysis Products and Their Derivatives, 1995. And you can look at a preview on it in Google Books, and in fact, it is a pretty good book. I was reading some of it this morning, which is part of the reason that I came in. I almost was late again because I was reading the handbook of starch hydrolysis products.
+
+[35:08] Uh but uh Adam found a couple things that you uh readers might listeners might find interesting. Uh one, glucose cereals were invented because Britain got uh got their sugar supply cut off during the Napoleonic Wars. Uh yeah, I mean like it's it's interesting. That they they started producing it because of that pretty cool. A lot of uh cool uh food things were because of wars, you know, like canning, like Napoleon needed to feed his armies, and so Appair, who was working on canning the first really accurate, a good canning method was uh basically a result of the Napoleonic Wars as well.
+
+[35:36] So there you have it. Uh and two, uh he says cyclodextrins sound cool. Uh cyclodextrins, by the way, are uh chains of glucose that are formed into a ring, uh, and they have some cool, cool properties. They are uh grass, which means generally regarded as safe by the government, and have been used to hold on to flavor and industrial food. Wikipedia tells me they are an ingredient in phibreze.
+
+[35:57] I love Febreze. Like when you have a stink, like when you have stinky gym clothes, like and they get all packed in it, it's like I I've I like I used to soak all that crap in Febreze. Febreze. My wife hates the smell of Febreze, some Febreze, but I just like the word. Anyway, um uh Wikipedia tells me their ingredient in Febreze that traps the stink.
+
+[36:15] That's a good traps the stink. Uh, has anybody found good culinary uses for cyclodextrins other than uh infrees, which you're not using in culinary things? Oh, and to answer the question we were talking about before, uh on their honeymoon, they got married in October but didn't want to plan the honeymoon on top of planning the wedding. Is that what you said? You said it was you said it could be money.
+
+[36:32] You said it was one of those two. Whatever. You just change you'll change your story. Whatever it is, just change your story. You know what I'm saying?
+
+[36:39] And then she'll say, I have an uncanny feeling. And uh congratulations on opening the bars. Now on cyclodextrins, the interesting thing about cyclodextrin is the inside of the cyclodextrin, it's not hydrophobic, but it's less hydrophilic than the outside. But the cyclodextrin itself is gonna keep its structure and be very soluble in water. So it's used to complex somewhat hydrophobic ingredients uh into water, and that's why it's used as a carrier in uh flavors in in in industrial applications.
+
+[37:04] I haven't heard of anyone using it in food, so we'll see. Would we have time to take a break? Yeah. Alright, we're gonna go to another break, come back with cooking your shoes. My dream last night was about Alibaba with the forty feet.
+
+[37:31] Tom, Tom about her son. He was there with me. I rode through a valley with a princess by my side. The Duke and the Duchess was there to meet to me with a smile. Alice was staring wander, staring far away.
+
+[37:54] The tree blind mass was there with me to tell the teddy bear to me. The teddy bear came smiling here. With a big smile. The little baby has lost the sheep. So that song was actually emailed in from a listener.
+
+[38:13] Oh wow. Just now? Uh a few days ago, I think. Yeah. Yeah, from Andy Melka.
+
+[38:18] That song is John Holt. It's called Alibaba. I like that. I like Alibaba. My son, my younger son, Dax, is obsessed with uh Alibaba due to the uh 30s or 40s Popeye cartoon where Bruto Bluto or Brutus, whatever he was at that time, plays Alibaba.
+
+[38:34] Remember that? Loves that stuff. Maybe we can get that song. It's called I'm a Terrible Guy. We'll get that for next week.
+
+[38:39] Got it. Good. It's good business. Uh so, by the way, I forgot to mention this when I was talking about Saison, the restaurant that uh the Chuck Eats post with the aging and all that. Uh, because I've never been there.
+
+[38:51] You know, I haven't been to San Francisco in a while. I was talking to Daniel Patterson. Daniel Patterson came into the bar last night. We were talking about the state of eating in San Francisco, and he says that the state of eating, and now remember, by and large, most people on earth think that it wasn't broken to begin with because people love eating in San Francisco, right? But then you have uh kind of like the school of thought, which Dave Chang famously was almost banned from the city for saying that the whole dang city is just uh uh, you know, a uh a really nice fig on a plate, basically.
+
+[39:18] They just cut off he doesn't talk like this. They just cut up a thing and put it on a plate. That's not how Dave Chang talks. But the attitude is right, right? Anyway, so um so anywho, so uh Patterson was telling me who his restaurant Quaz, like one of my favorite restaurants in San Francisco.
+
+[39:34] I love his cooking, it's great stuff. Uh and it's funny if you ask him, if you anyway, he's he's a he's an interesting guy. He writes sometimes for the New York Times. Uh and uh friend of the show. I was gonna ask him to get on the show this morning, but his flight out was at seven in the morning, so he didn't he said next time he's in the city, he'll come do the show.
+
+[39:51] Uh he says the state of eating is uh is getting better and better every day. Anyway, Cezanne is the restaurant uh that had all that uh you know the crazy aged pigeons and all that. But here is the uh when I was looking it up on the internet, I had, and I hate Yelp. By the way, I made the mistake of looking at our Yelp reviews, and I wanted to I want like here's the thing. I I'm over it now.
+
+[40:12] I'm I'm not never gonna look at it again. Really? I mean, it's just you know, Yelp is is crazy because but by the way, I learned a lot from the Yelp reviews to try and like, you know, I did fix some stuff based on what I saw in the Yelp reviews. So, so you know, that's there. But the review's there forever.
+
+[40:28] That it just the whole thing is is it's crazy. It drives you crazy. It's nutty. Anyway, I I can't deal with it. But I looked on uh some sort of Yelp equivalent or Google and I saw for Saison, the restaurant, the very best restaurant review I've ever seen in my life.
+
+[40:42] You ready for it? It was it was two sentences. Very romantic, pricey, but will get you laid. I was like, man, that's everything you need to know. Everything you need to know about a restaurant.
+
+[40:58] Right? Awesome. Anyway. Uh yeah. So uh for those uh who this is the first time you you're listening, uh uh longtime listener Ken Ingber is having an ongoing feud with uh Nastasha Lopez on her use of uh the internet and various texting and technological things while we're trying to do a radio show.
+
+[41:22] Now, uh I will have all everyone who cares about this know that she in fact was not doing that today. No. She was paying attention today. Yes. Yes.
+
+[41:30] Yeah, nice. Anyway, so Ken, this is to Nest this is from Ken to Nastasha. Sorry I upset you. Although on balance, I think you will have to agree that it made for some funny radio. I was delighted that you appreciate the irony of my complaining about your reading my email on air.
+
+[41:43] Uh while I was actually like you multitasking while listening. I appreciate that Dave took my side, but Jack really made an excellent point. If the vast majority of listeners yesterday were me, then you're promptly responding to my email instead of paying attention to the show would turn out to be exactly the customer service Dave Dave says all of your listeners deserve. So boom, crap on me, huh? Yeah.
+
+[42:02] Crap on me. What do you think, Jack? Crap on me? Crap on me. Uh yeah.
+
+[42:10] Anyway. More from Ken Ingbert, because King Ken Ingwer has decided that we're gonna try this Breville coffee maker. And they're coming tonight. And they're coming tonight to the bar to uh test it out and we'll see, we'll see how the thing is. I'm excited.
+
+[42:22] And as as I've said before on the show, Breville, huge fans of uh of the Dave Chang. They love Dave Chang, so hopefully they'll uh then love me as well, right? Mm-hmm. Yes? Yes?
+
+[42:32] Okay. Uh now, last thing up, uh talk about the blog for a second. Yes, I realize I haven't done it uh since October. I also realize I haven't written uh the my serious seeds column. I owe that from just before Halloween.
+
+[42:45] Serious Eats column. Not serious, Jesus Christ. Eater. Eater eater column. Nastasha's giving me the the uh the D bag face now.
+
+[42:52] Nastasha has a couple faces. She has the vegan face, what was the other one? I don't remember. And the D-bag face. She's giving me the D-bag face.
+
+[42:59] Anyway, uh I have I owe Craiggy on Maine some answers, and they're it's a great restaurant in Boston, and they're good people, so I'm gonna answer that. Uh but I've decided what my coming out of semi-retirement post is gonna be. What? I'm gonna do a post on uh technique we are working on at the bar called uh nitro muddling, and it's a cool technique, and so here it goes. So uh everybody who uses liquid nitrogen knows that you can put an herb in a blender with liquid nitrogen, blend it to a fine powder, and get these amazing kind of fresh powdered herbs, right?
+
+[43:31] Uh, but uh we're now doing that in the bar, and here's what we do we take a regular uh, you know, uh regular shaking tin for uh you know cocktail tin, and we put uh nine Thai basil leaves into it, pour the liquid nitrogen on top. They get crunchy really quick at Lee. And then we uh you know pour off the extra liquid nitrogen, muddle it just like it was regular mint. I have to work on that a little bit because the noise of muddling frozen stainless steel is insane. Maybe we should try it in glass.
+
+[43:59] Maybe it'll work in glass without cracking. We'll find out. Uh you muddle it, then you add the spirit, and it's very important, unlike normal bartending practices to add the spirit first. And the reason is because uh the alcohol and the spirit will prevent the thawing herbs from getting that swampy browned out taste because it inhibits the enzymes that are in them. And uh those things get that taste relatively quickly because they're so finely broken up, right?
+
+[44:22] So you pour the uh the um the spirit in, you know, while it's still frozen, swirl it, thaw it out. We add uh so we're doing Thai basil rum, rum rum rum, and then we're doing well, we're using a white rum, Florida Cagna, actually. And then uh we add simple syrup, lime, swirl it around, shake it like a normal cocktail, put it through a uh fine mesh strainer, and only the green particles of the Thai basil that are crushed fine enough to make it through finely, enough to make it through that uh that strainer, get into your drink, and you have a bright green, incredibly fresh Thai basil daiquiri. Nitro muddling cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[45:17] You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening. You got my head all twisted, and I guess can't get it straight.
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+[0:03] Broadcasting live from Roberta's in Bushwick, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from roughly 12 to 1245 every Tuesday in the back of Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn on the Heritage Radio Network. Calling all of your questions to 718497-2128.
+
+[0:40] That's 718497-2128. Jack, I hear we already have a caller. Is this true? Yes. Caller, you are on the air.
+
+[0:58] Alright, before you start, uh for those of you who don't know what we're talking about, spherification is the technique where you make uh little balls out of things using uh hydrocolloid. The most famous one is uh sodium alginate. Uh the problem with that is that the balls turn solid over time and they're unpleasant if they're solid because the alginate steals all the flavor. So there's a technique called reverse verification where you basically form just a thin layer of uh alginate gel around a liquid and it stays liquid in the center forever, but it's a more difficult technique. All right, so shoot, what's the problem?
+
+[1:30] Okay, well, I guess uh first of all, uh it's working with the distilled water for the for the bath. Um, I guess my uh sodium citrate, maybe is what seemed to be settling out of it. Um I didn't notice it until after I had blended it and was trying to pour it into the bath. I didn't think there was enough left in the bottom. I went ahead and proceeded with it anyway.
+
+[1:52] Uh so it may have been a uh a weak uh sodium bath, I guess using both the sodium alginate and sodium citrate in the in the bath. Um how sensitive is that to um uh right so again so people don't know what we're talking about. In your when you're doing a reverse purification, your flavor has a calcium source in it, and the bath that you drop that flavor into has alginate and then usually something to stabilize the alginate in it. And uh that alginate then forms an instant kind of envelope around your flavor. Now, before we go any further, sodium citrate should not settle out.
+
+[2:32] Are you you're using you said distilled water? Uh correct, distilled water and uh and a stick blender. Right. So the sodium citrate shouldn't uh come out of it and you shouldn't have a problem with the alginate in the bath. Um the uh I mean I I don't use really citr citrate does is sodium citrate acts in two ways.
+
+[2:52] It's a it's a pH buffer, right? Because uh the alginate doesn't want the pH to go too low. If it does, it'll start gelling and turning goopy and ropey on you. And it's a l it acts somewhat as a sequestrant, which means it it it binds uh excess calcium in there, but a lot of that sequestering activity is really due to more of its buffering capacity. If you want a really good sequestrant, you want to move to sodium uh hexametaphosphate shrimp, which is available, I believe, uh through uh our one of our sponsors, uh Modern Pantry.
+
+[3:23] But what kind of failure are you getting out of it? Are you getting is it is the is the bath turning ropey and nasty on you? Or what what what's the failure mode? It it was uh the the bath was pretty uh it was pretty thick but clear. Right.
+
+[3:38] Okay. And what is the failure mode? What what's what's exactly is happening? Um I I guess when uh when I'm dropping the the base into it um I'm actually getting different results. I tried with three different things in the same bath.
+
+[3:54] I was using a a rum uh using calcium lactate and a little bit of Xanthem gum and it was dropping into it almost immediately dispersing. On the surface? Using uh very near the surface, yeah. Right, okay. Okay, next.
+
+[4:11] I'm wondering whether your problem is you're not getting I'm wondering whether your problem is you're not getting a good drop out of it. Okay one of the problems with reverse spherification is you need to have a fairly thin alginate base in order to get the stuff to drop in properly and if it if it if it's if the if it's too viscous right you'll just get like a pancake effect on the surface where it'll maybe it'll hollow out a little bit but you'll it'll just spread wide and then it'll form like kind of wisps of gel within it. Was it gelling it just was dispersing? No it was it was gelling and and the when you when you're describing wisps of gel that's almost exactly what the what the rum base was doing. Right.
+
+[4:47] I think your main problem there is you maybe need to go thicker on the on the rum or add some heft to the because also remember alcohol is fairly light compared to uh so you add some heft to it I mean with either sugar or glucose syrup or something like that to add some heft so that it wants to go down add some viscosity to it like even over and above the Xanthan gum another problem with Xanthan did you do did you get all of the air out of the rum before you dropped it in or was it still cloudy? Um it was the rum was just a little bit cloudy. I let it sit for for several hours, but it was still uh a little bit cloudy. Do you have access to a vacuum machine? Uh no, I don't.
+
+[5:26] Right. So you're only really way to do it is to wait for it to kind of settle out. But if you don't want to add xanthan, you could add b other b you you you're gonna need to add some xanthan, but you could add some other bodying agents like glucose syrup or like uh corn syrup, something to give it some extra density so it wants to sit, and you're gonna need to make sure that the stuff you're dropping in doesn't have air bubbles because the air bubbles are just gonna sit on the surface and prevent a good drop from forming. What percentage algorithm and what brand are you using? Um I I don't know what the brand was.
+
+[5:56] It came from one of your sponsors when you mentioned a moment ago. Right. Um and I'm I was using uh what is it uh two and a half grams to uh to five hundred grams of water. Uh two to five is four to one. So so point four percent?
+
+[6:16] Yeah, sounds four grams in a liter. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Sounds right. Yeah, that's low. Yeah, yeah, right.
+
+[6:25] That's really low. I mean in other words, um, so uh I mean i it everything depends on the alginate. And I've never used modernist pantry's alginate, so I don't know kind of uh what what's going on with it, but you know, um alginates come in a variety of viscosities from a low viscosity algorithm to a high viscosity algorithm. The one I use, I use a medium and a high viscosity algorithm from FMC biopolymer, is the one that I typically use when I'm doing this. And with those, you want to with for the high viscosity one, I usually want to be around eight grams in a liter in order to get like a good gel to form.
+
+[7:00] And uh the other one maybe even uh you could go a little lower with the high viscosity one, like you know, seven grams uh per liter. Uh but yeah, like down at point four, it's gonna be hard to form a quick thing, and that might also be causing your dispersal problems. Uh if you and by the way, alginate, especially if you have all the stuff in the bath, you can heat it to get rid of the bubbles. And in fact, when you heat it, you're going to be uh decreasing its viscosity. So if you're having viscosity issues, you can do reverse verification into hot alginate bath.
+
+[7:31] It's not gonna hurt anything. You don't want it to be so hot that it's gonna boil the alcohol out of your rum, right? But assuming that that's not a problem, uh, you can go that way. Let me give you another thing you can do, depending on what size of balls you want to make. You can d you can if you have a sil pat, you can just take and this way you don't need to thicken it at all.
+
+[7:49] You can just take drops of uh and put drops onto a silpat and then uh let them freeze up. If they're small enough drops, that you know they'll pancake out, but you'll still be able to get a good uh good drop on it. And then just put those drops in one by one, they'll thaw almost instantly, especially if you're using a hot alginate bath, and that'll let you get it underneath. But I I would try to get your alginate bath higher than uh four grams per liter. I would get it up to like uh uh you want it as low as you can, obviously, but you you might want to try like seven, eight grams per liter.
+
+[8:19] Uh try it hot, make sure you get all the air out of it and try to put a little more body into the um into your into your uh rum. How how much calcium lactate per liter were you adding? You were using calcium lactate or calcium lactate gluconate? Uh I was using calcium lactate. Okay.
+
+[8:36] How much? And I was at I was at 30 grams per liter. Thirty? Correct. Uh uh says three percent.
+
+[8:45] That's that's high. Is that what they is that what they told you on the website to add? Uh correct. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[8:51] Could you taste it? I mean, that's enough calcium, in other words. That should work. I mean Yeah, I could I I I could taste it a little bit. Right.
+
+[8:59] Uh in general, I mean, that's high. You could get the calcium lactate gluconate. It's gonna make a softer gel. But the first thing I would do is get it gelling properly. Once it's gelling properly, then start dialing the calcium back.
+
+[9:13] And so what I would do then is I would make your rum mixture first, right? And then I would hold some back with no calcium in it at all, right? And then and then take your one uh and add the calcium to it, and then as an experiment, just keep adding the uncalcium stuff back to it until it doesn't gel right anymore. And then you'll you'll get a feeling for exactly how much calcium is going to be required in that application. Okay.
+
+[9:40] That sounds sounds like a good idea. That's what it'll do. Another problem with reverse furification is that if the two if the balls um touch each other underneath the alginate bath, they'll glue each other, they'll glue themselves together because of uh that in other words the alginate will start bonding and then they'll be hard to break apart. So you want to make sure when you take them out to to very quickly put them into uh basically like a pure water solution to get them separated and to rinse the extra alginate off, and then to store them in a back basic the best thing to do is to have enough of your uh flavor base left to store the balls in the flavor base. If you store the balls in the flavor base, which has some calcium in it, they'll last forever or until they spoil, right?
+
+[10:21] Uh if you store them in water, then uh all of the very quickly all of the flavor and color will be leached out of them. Uh and it's somewhere in between is to store it in a sh basically a sugar and alcohol solution of the same relative sweetness and same relative alcohol level as your balls, and that that's kind of the intermediate. So when I the the thing that I use reverse furification for most is uh maple syrup balls that I put inside of pancakes, and when I do that, I basically store them in the maple syrup. You know what I'm saying? Yeah, yeah.
+
+[10:51] Yeah, good, good. All right. So give that a shot. Yeah, thank you. Thank you so much.
+
+[10:58] Awesome show. Listen to you guys all the time, having for a while. Thanks so much. We appreciate it. Yep.
+
+[11:03] All right. So how you doing, Nastasha? Good. How are you? All right.
+
+[11:07] All right. What's up? Nothing, just looking at cues. Oh, we got cues? What's going on?
+
+[11:11] Yeah, I think it's fine. All right. All right. So uh anything new happening in the world of uh cooking issues slash Nastasha Lopez the past uh week? No, Dave.
+
+[11:20] Nothing? Nothing. Actually, we've been working, we've been with you like 24 seconds. Yeah, we've been at the bar, like basically nothing new can happen except we've been at the bar, right? Mm-hmm.
+
+[11:29] I mean, that's basically the only new things that that happen. I tried yesterday, uh so we've had some calls from a show that wants wants us on, maybe in California, and we've been doing some crazy tests for that. So we've been yesterday I had to make a hurricane. Familiar with the hurricane? It's a it's like you know, nowadays a god awful rum drink.
+
+[11:48] It was invented by a guy, Pat O'Brien, apparently in New Orleans, who was given a whole bunch of rum. Uh right after prohibition, he opened up and basically he couldn't buy the good liquors from the distributor unless he also took rum, which at the time nobody really wanted. And so he had to find something to do with all of that rum, and so he mixed like a couple kinds of rum and passion fruit uh syrup and pomegranate syrup uh and you know, some other stuff. And there there's the hurricane. It was served in giant glasses, basically to get you effed up, which is how it works now in New Orleans anyway, but the quality is just even lower than than back then.
+
+[12:22] Then New Orleans, you know, is like the home of the crappy fake daiquiri shop. In fact, last time I was in New Orleans for Tales of the Cocktail, uh, they one of the uh bartenders who was working at a dinner that I was at, I forget who it was, and uh she had um ordered a daiquiri machine to come, and the fella who showed up to tweak out the daiquiri machine uh had no idea what an actual daiquiri was, and we s made and served him an actual dacquari. He's like, No, no, that's not it, that's not a dacquari. Like a daiquiri is basically Kool-Aid and like rum in one of these frozen machines. Horrible, horrible, horrible stuff.
+
+[12:55] The current hurricane is made with a powdered mix that might as well be Kool-Aid, uh, but just doesn't taste quite as good as Kool-Aid does, if that if that's humanly possible. Uh so it's just uh just a horrible, horrible thing. Anyway, so we tried to make uh uh what we thought was a good hurricane. Uh so I basically uh took uh pomegranate, smacked out the seeds, uh muddled them because I didn't want to blend them to get the bitterness in from the little pips on the seeds, added them to passion fruit pre-ray, hit it with SPL, uh, and spun it out in a centrifuge and got an amazing bright red, awesome flavored kind of passion fruit slash uh pomegranate syrup that you know is tart enough to use in place of lime juice in a daiquiri style recipe. Made it, actually tasted quite good.
+
+[13:40] Problem was that the show wanted me to do something carbonated, so I carbonated it and it tasted awful, right? Pretty much? You agree? Mm hmm. Yeah.
+
+[13:48] I don't really like most carbonated rum drinks except for like dark and stormies and things like that, because of the ginger really helps it out. But like I I think I said this before on the show, like carbonated rum often ends up tasting like Cisco, if you remember Cisco, which was a carbonated twenty percent alcohol beverage from the from the 80s or 90s. It was just dreadful, dreadful, dreadful stuff. But uh then, uh, at the behest of some of the the bartenders sitting, I think Tristan and Nick at uh Booker over Booker and Dax Our Bar uh was like, let's make a ginnicane. And we made a ginicane, we made like a gin hurricane, and that was delicious.
+
+[14:20] Delicious, delicious. Anyway, so that's the kind of crap we're working on nowadays. Okay. So uh go call in more questions, by the way. 27184972128.
+
+[14:29] That's 7184972128. We have a comment in on last week's show from Paul, uh, who in uh it's about the remember we had someone who wanted to know how to tell whether if their mom was allergic to a particular kind of fish because their mom was allergic to fish scales. And we had uh, or no, sorry, not fish scales, two, uh fish with scales. And we had a discussion that basically the scale is just a marker of where the fish is in the evolutionary chain, and so they need to stay away from that uh particular a whole group of fish. Uh Paul uh enjoyed our explanation of it, but had an interesting way to very simply find out whether or not it's got scales.
+
+[15:04] And that is is it kosher? Paul says, check the internet to see if a particular fish is kosher, i.e. if it's permission permissible under Jewish dietary laws. There are always tons of QA's on the internet about what is and isn't kosher. Kosher fish must have scales as well as fins.
+
+[15:19] Please note that the inverse is not necessarily true. It could have scales, but not be kosher, but this might definitely be an easy first test for her. Kosher equals definitely has scales, so your mom definitely can't have it. And not kosher uh equals might not have scales. So in other words, if it is kosher, your mom can't have it.
+
+[15:37] But just because it's not kosher doesn't mean your mom can't have it. Make sense? Mm-hmm. Very good. Thanks, Paul.
+
+[15:41] That's a good idea. Uh and then, you know, beyond that, go and look up uh where it is in the evolutionary chain uh and see, you know, where it where it fits. Is it a you know Teleost, etc., etc.? Okay. Uh two from Matthew.
+
+[15:56] And this question goes out to the uh good people in the engineering room, Jack and Carlos. Uh, I'm a big fan of your show and spend plenty of time listening to the archives. It always helps my dishwashing/slash house cleaning time go down a little smoother. Can you believe someone's actually doing work while they're listening? It's crazy.
+
+[16:11] Right? Yeah, it's nice. I like that. Uh anyway. Why, Jack, do you cut off the last five minutes or so from any of the shows on the archives?
+
+[16:20] It's important that we hear every last word that Nastasha and I have to say. Thanks, Matthew. Well, I don't know if it's important to hear every last word we have to say, but uh, but uh Jack, not to put you on the spot yet, or is Jack back there or Carlos? What's the explanation for that? What's going on?
+
+[16:33] They're stunned. Wait, Jack's coming. We'll look into it. Uh be there, but Matthew, we'll take care of it. Okay, so listen, with that, let's go to our first commercial break.
+
+[16:45] Calling all of your questions to 718497-2128. That's 718497-2128 cooking issues. You can rely on the old man's money. You can rely on the old man's money. It's a bitch, girl, but it's gone too far.
+
+[17:01] Cause you know it don't matter anyway. Send money, money won't get you too far, get you too far. Go to know, but don't you know? That is wrong. To take what is given you.
+
+[17:25] So far go on your own. But you could get alone. You can try to miss wrong, but you'll never be strong. Right, you're a rich, girl. And you're going to fall.
+
+[17:41] You can rely on the old man't matter anyway. You can rely on the old money. I take full responsibility for show cutouts. Sorry. Sorry, guys.
+
+[17:53] No problem. But I'll tell you something. I hate it when when she lets it go too far because she knows it doesn't freaking matter because she can rely on the old man's money. It's so disappointing, isn't it? So disappointing.
+
+[18:05] You know, you should stand on your own. Don't rely on the old man's money. Anyway. Apparently we have a caller. Caller, you are on the air.
+
+[18:14] Hi. Uh I have a question. I I have uh I'm looking to do the uh low times or cookies. And I have uh from beer rowing, I have my uh my hot weather tank is controlled by a PID. Right.
+
+[18:26] And I was wondering if there was any issues with using such a large volume of water because it would probably be about ten gallons. Uh well, how many watts is your heater? Uh I've got a I I've actually had two. I've got one the 5500 watt and one's a 4500 watt, and then I've got a pump that I can use to circulate back into it. All right, yeah.
+
+[18:47] Alright, with that kind of wattage, uh so I mean I'm gonna do a quick calculation here. A thousand watts, about twenty-eight liters, assume it's fairly linear and yeah, you should be fine. As long as your pump gets good uh movement through it, and as long as your PID is stabilizing within like a couple of tenths of a degree up or down, uh, which is it? Is it stabilizing properly? Yeah, yeah.
+
+[19:11] Yeah, then you shouldn't have any problem. Uh, you know, just you just want to make sure that you don't have any huge dead spots in the circulation, and that when you put your packages in that they um that they that you know that there's a lot of that there's water circulating around them. As long as you have water circulating on all sides, you should be okay. Uh i i the other thing I'd be c cautious of on certain items if you're gonna do eggs is if you're circulating that much water, you don't want it to be too too violent, or the stuff's gonna get knocked about in there. Uh or or you could have a situation where if you don't have the stuff properly contained, uh the the circulation is just gonna push it all to one corner of the bath, all of your bags will pile up, and then the the bags in the center are gonna take a long time to come up to temperature, which could be problematic in certain recipes.
+
+[19:57] Does that make sense? Yeah, yeah. Yeah. But your your wattage should be more than enough. Um I've never had the uh pleasure of fooling around with a circulator uh that's uh five kilowatts, but sounds like it should be a lot of fun.
+
+[20:11] What are you cooking? You know, uh I'm just kind of glad to do everything. Uh probably you know, I I I have chicken, so probably a lot of eggs. Probably what? You I'm having a little bit of a bad connection.
+
+[20:21] What'd she say? Egg? What do you say, rather? Eggs? Yeah, probably a lot of eggs, yeah.
+
+[20:25] A lot of eggs for a lot of chicken for the most part. All right, so if you're uh if you yeah, so again, just make sure that the eggs don't get knocked around uh too much. And the other issue obviously is you're using quite a lot of power. Uh you you know, um so if you had the uh if you have the PID controller and whatnot, you might want to make a secondary bath that's smaller, like you know, two kilowatts and like twenty-eight liters or something like that, which would be is twice what was normally be used in twenty-eight liters to get up to temperature really, really fast. But just you don't want to be in a situation where you're pulling out those big guns all the time.
+
+[21:00] Do you know what I mean? Yeah. Yeah. And and I assume you're running that guy off two twenty. So if you're gonna run that guy what if you run that thing off of one twenty instead, right, uh you'll get uh about a quarter of the power, so that'll get it down to normal range.
+
+[21:17] So if you just make an alternate plug situation and run it off of one twenty instead of two twenty, assuming the amperage works out okay, uh, you should then ha be able to use it as a lower wattage uh item. It might be a problem with your pump, you might need to get a secondary pump, but you shouldn't need to get a second heater element. Okay. Does that make sense? Yeah, that that that that helps a lot.
+
+[21:37] Um now if I was looking at uh if you have me very interested in this rotary evaporator and I have money to burn. Ha good nice. That's a good problem. How how do you how do you clean them? I mean, I obviously have to buy you, so how would I I don't know where it'll been.
+
+[21:53] How do you how do you clean the glassware? Well, that's a good question. So uh I mean th there's two kinds of problems when you buy laboratory gear, and the one problem is uh kind of inorganic poisons, like straight up old school poisons, uh and also organic based poisons, and the other are kind of biohazards. So most likely you're not gonna have a biohazard in your rotov app, although it's po it's entirely possible. I'm pretty sure that the original one I bought off of eBay had carbon tetrachloride in it, which is nasty stuff.
+
+[22:25] Uh so I just um I w I bought uh you know a a basically a glass cleaner. I think uh think of the brand was Alcanox, and I just cleaned the ever loving hell out of it. Uh if you have access, uh I also in case there was a biological agent in it, I also bleached the hell out of it. You know what I mean? Basically soaked in bleach, ultrasonic cleaners, huge bunch of changes of water, bunch of bunch of bunch of changes of water, and detergents that'll attack both polar and nonpolar things, because the odds are there's a bunch of nonpolar stuff there too, which might be, you know, vile, vile stuff.
+
+[22:59] Um so you know, just do that again and again. Also note that if you're buying a standard roto vap with a condenser, re regular coil condenser, that one's going to be harder to clean because it's impossible to physically attack all the nooks and crannies on that. You can't get your fist into it. Whereas if you're getting what the heck was that? It sounds like someone just died on a roof.
+
+[23:19] Um if you if you get a cold finger condenser, you can disassemble it basically and get your hands into it and totally clean it out. And if you're really lucky, you can get a cold finger condenser that also has a coiled insert sleeve, and then you get the best of all worlds. You can use it as a cold finger condenser, you can use it as a regular coil condenser, and you can clean it. But it's very difficult to clean out the inside of the condenser, and it just takes a lot of time and flushes of detergent in water. Um could maybe like a per carbonate cleaner.
+
+[23:50] Like I have uh powdered brewery wash. Yeah. 50 pounds of it. Would that would that work for that? I mean, I'd look and see what whether or not uh what they say on that is uh how it works on um you know, uh chemical deposits that aren't uh, you know, like basically you you know, you'll be able to get rid of most of the polar stuff using normal detergents and most of the nonpolar stuff, frankly.
+
+[24:11] But I would just uh I haven't looked at it in a long time because it's been a couple of been like five years since I bought a rotovap on eBay. Uh and so I would just look up, for instance, like what the procedures are for cleaning out, like pick a couple of vicious nonpolar solvents like carbon tetrachloride, and just find out what the kind of uh what the kind of decontamination procedure is for it. But yeah, you know, uh maybe the brewery one would work. I mean, I uh like I say, I bought Alcanox just because that's what they use in labs. It's not that expensive, but I'm sure you you can get a hold of it, you know what I mean?
+
+[24:42] Yeah. But I would specifically look up, I would choose a couple of nasty solvents, uh, polar and and and non polar, and just check out the basic decontamination procedures for them. Okay. Um, and that cold finger condenser you're talking about. Is that like a Libig convention for uh for a still?
+
+[25:00] No, no, the cold the cold finger one is just a basically it's a cone shaped sleeve inside inside of the round condenser, and uh you fill it with uh in the lab, you would typically use dry ice uh acetone. I use either dry ice ethanol or um or liquid nitrogen. Uh I actually almost always use liquid nitrogen because it's actually easier for me to get than dry ice for storage reasons. Um but um the problem with a cold finger condenser if you're not using something super cold like dry ice and ethanol dry sacetone, is uh it has a very low surface area uh compared to a um because it's not indented like like you know, some of the condensers you're dealing with. So uh so it's got a fairly low surface area compared to a coil condenser.
+
+[25:48] I see. Yeah. Okay. Alright, is that helpful? It's very helpful.
+
+[25:53] Thank you. All right, and uh, you know, write us back and tell us uh what happened with your big mega circulator. We'll do. All right, thanks a lot. Thank you.
+
+[26:03] All right, today's show is sponsored by Modernist Pantry supplying innovative ingredients for the modern cook. Do you love to experiment with new cooking techniques and ingredients? But hate, hate, hate to overspend for pounds of supplies with only a few grams are needed per application. Modernist Pantry has a solution. They offer a wide range of modern ingredients and packages that make sense for the home cook and enthusiast, and most cost only around five bucks.
+
+[26:24] Saving you time, money, and storage space. I'm gonna edit it myself to have either enthusiasts or whatever. Whether you're looking for hydrocolloids, pH buffers, or even meat glue, you'll find it at Modernist Pantry. And if you need something that they don't carry, just ask. Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you with inexpensive shipping to any country in the world.
+
+[26:41] Modernist Pantry is your one-stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients. Modernist Pantry carries several types of modified starches for thickening, including Ultratex 3, Ultratex 8, and Ultrasperse 3. Fans of cooking issues at place an order of $25 or more before next week's show will get a free package of Ultratex 3 to play with. Simply use the promo code CI71 when placing your order online at ModernistPantry.com. Visit modernistpantry.com today for all of your modernist cooking needs.
+
+[27:08] Alright, listen. Listen. For some reason, a lot of chefs started using uh Ultratex um, you know, years ago. And what what Ultratex is, is it's a great product made by National Starch, and it's it's a part of a group of things that are basically they're pre-cooked starch. They're they're prehydrated, pre-cooked.
+
+[27:27] So you don't need to heat those starches, Ultratex, for instance, to get them to have their thickening capacity like you would with a normal starch, right? So that's great. That's fantastical. Uh the problem with Ultra Texas is because it's been uh prehydrated, pre-cooked, if you add it to liquids and you don't have like a high shear mixture, mixer, or you can't shear it in quite a bit, or you don't mix it into butter like in a bermini or any one of those things, mix it with sugar, anything, corn syrup, whatever, it tends to uh to glob up to turn into kind of globules, uh, you know, pearl up the same way as if you added starch to uh hot gravy. It works exactly the same as if you add starch to hot gravy.
+
+[28:06] So you need to really uh hit it with a blender or something like that to get it to disperse properly. And that's because uh when you add starch to gravy, typically what you'll do is you'll add starch to a cold liquid first, form a slurry, right? So that all the little starch particles get separated, and then you add it to a liquid, and then uh everything's kosher. You heat it up and it's good and it hydrates and all that stuff. Ultra spurse, right?
+
+[28:29] Not tex, ultra spurse is a uh an agglomerated uh pre-cooked, you know, prehydrated starch. And what that is is it looks like little kind of uh it looks kind of grainy when you look at it, instead of being a fine powder, it looks kind of grainy, and it's designed to not gl not kind of stick together into balls, and you can stir that one into things to thicken it up, and you don't need a lot of high shear mixing. Now, the reason that industrially ultra spurse isn't used as much as ultra texts is ultra spurse is uh a lot more expensive than ultra texts but in most home and like high-end chef kind of things, the cost uh isn't that much greater and is not that much of a of a concern because you're not using that much of it. And so I would always recommend, if you can, to go with ultra spurse instead of ultra texts all from a good folks at National Starch. All right.
+
+[29:24] That make any damn sense? Okay. So Chris, maybe next week give away the ultra spurse, the ultra spurse. What about commercial break? Already?
+
+[29:32] It's been 15 minutes. Really? Mm-hmm. All right, we'll go to our second commercial break. Calling all your questions to 718497-2128, 718497-2128 cooking issues.
+
+[29:49] Well I want, you to go back to hot to handle. Like a flame, the birds are candle. The candle feels the flame. What I got full stock. A full screen with a scatter.
+
+[30:05] And you pull them all together. And I can display. Oh yeah, well by you. Well, well, well, you make a my dreams of true. On a night ball, we become a screamer.
+
+[30:41] Oh yeah. Oh yeah. Hollow Notes Fest today, huh? Is that Nastasha or is that Carlos? That's Carlos Carlos.
+
+[30:48] Good call on Hollands Fest. You know, Nastasha and I have kind of like a running thing that we like. Dave completely bastardizes Holland Oaks. Yeah, well I'll rock out to it, but they they like, you know, so like if you've seen what's that show, like The Wedding Singer, where the guy sings with all the curses. I tend to sing songs with like many, many curses interspersed in them.
+
+[31:05] And so like what we feel is like, you know, uh you know how when you go to a concert, there's that guy who stands in the background screaming the song. Right? Yeah. So like we imagine that I'm like that guy screaming, but instead of giving like the rock and roll fingers, like you know, like the rock and roll fingers, I've just got my I'm just like flipping them the bird. But I'm in like the front row screaming along, like jamming out like to rich girl giving giving like hollow notes to the bird, and they're like, what the hell is this guy doing?
+
+[31:31] What's wrong with this guy? You see how long it takes before I get ejected from the concert? You know, those guys in the front row don't play. They pay so much for those tickets, especially on a reunion tour. They're not playing around with some joker, like flipping off the the the band and screaming curses.
+
+[31:46] Freaking rich girl. Anyway, okay. By the way, I know that was a scary sound we heard before, but it seems like Indy Jesus is okay. Oh man. That's good business.
+
+[32:00] We have checked the building. Andy Jesus is okay. Okay. That's good stuff. Jesus Christ Superstar is coming out at the end of next month on Broadway again, Dave.
+
+[32:07] Yeah, but look, okay, look. Jesus Christ Superstar, uh, aside from the fact that, you know, you kind of, as much as I love uh Andrew Lloyd Weber, and it's an Andrew Lloyd Weber thing, right? As much as I love him, I have to from a more kind of rational standpoint hate it. Well, because like, you know, I mean, all the people who are seriously into musicals are like, oh my god, Andrew Lloyd Webber, right? Even but I like that stuff.
+
+[32:28] You do. I do, I love that stuff. Jesus Christ Superstar, especially, but the problem is is that in my head, I have, you know, the original kind of voice of Judas is in my head. And if I go and hear somebody else, and the original guy is dead, by the way, so it's not like they're gonna bring that guy back. Uh and uh, you know, if I hear somebody else playing Judas, I'll just be like, oh my god, what is that?
+
+[32:50] It's the same way that you know that they redid uh Heat Miser, Snow Miser. Or Charlie Brown's voice. They redid Charlie Brown's voice? Horrible, horrible, horrible, awful, horrible. Uh, you know, it's like some things, you know, whatever.
+
+[33:04] Anyway. You're gonna make me go see it, aren't you? You should take your sons. Well, what what the heck do they want to see Jesus Christ Superstar for? They don't like it's me.
+
+[33:11] I like musicals. My son Booker would be so bored. He would be the screaming the entire time, when's it over? When's it over? And like they'd be saying, you know, what's the buzz?
+
+[33:21] And he'd be asking me when the buzz is gonna be over. I think I can't, you know, I can't. I can't. Anyway. Uh, question from Okay, I can't see who the question's from.
+
+[33:31] Oh, from Derek. Uh, hi again. I want to make my own sherry vinegar. Is it possible to take a red wine vinegar mother and put it in sherry and wind up with sherry vinegar? Are there any other methods?
+
+[33:40] Thanks for your help and insight and keep being awesome, Derek. We will try. We will try to start being awesome. Anyway. Uh okay, so here's the trick.
+
+[33:48] Uh when you're making um the answer is yes. It it's gonna work. Uh, but uh when you're making vinegar uh from wine, you're typically using a lower uh alcohol wine, right? So sherry, which you know is fortified, is uh is coming in at a much higher ABV than what it than is good for uh the vinegar. So you're gonna want to dilute to uh and I looked at a couple different sources, but between kind of seven and nine percent alcohol, and nine percent is pretty high.
+
+[34:17] Like you you might want to start down lower at like seven percent uh alcohol, okay? Uh so uh so you're gonna basically figure out what the alcohol content of your sherry is and then dilute it down with uh with whatever, but get the alcohol percentage down. If the alcohol is too high, you'll inhibit the acetobacter, and that's gonna be uh it's gonna be a problem, okay? Uh another thing that uh I've read, I don't know whether it's true or not, but is that if a wine is very highly sulfured, has a lot of sulfur dioxide in it, uh that can also be a problem uh for um for the acetobacter, but uh other than that, it it should basically be uh no problem. Now uh I looked up uh Sun Sunset magazine has uh a big how-to on this, including the vinegar things and remember, I don't know whether Sunset's any good anymore, but back in the day in the early 70s, Sunset magazine, which is from California, had like some kind of butt-kicking books on like how to get a really butt-kicking garden, how to make bon's eyes, how to bake bread.
+
+[35:17] I mean, Sunset Magazine. Desert E. It's California, not California. I mean, I don't know, Arizona, do they read it in Arizona? It was like, yeah, like You're from LA.
+
+[35:29] I'm sure you had Sunset Magazine coming out of your ears in the morning. No, I think it's more of like a desert Arizona, New Mexico, California. Hey, look, you know why it's called Sunset? Right. Because the sun sets on the freaking West Coast, right?
+
+[35:40] It's a West Coast thing, Southern West Coast. Right? But anyway, the books used to kick butt. That's all I'm saying. Is that Sunset Books?
+
+[35:47] You wouldn't think it. It seems like very consumer, but their books I used to enjoy them as I was growing up. I haven't read them in a long time. But if you if you look it up, uh, and you know who they asked as their consultant for it? Paula Wolfert.
+
+[35:58] Yeah, who Nastasha and I met when she was writing a like some sort of a clay pot cookbook. Is that true or false? Yeah, she had just finished it. Her house was freaking full of clay pots. I'm talking like she had a greater volume of clay pots than I have an air volume in my apartment, because her house is quite large compared to my apartment.
+
+[36:17] Anyway, um Paula recommends that you start small. In other words, if you get your mother, you add a little bit of the wine to start with. You gotta make sure that air can get to it because forming um forming acetic acid, it's an aerobic activity. There's air. So in fact, when you're doing a fast procedure, uh so the the the old school way is uh I don't know whether it's called the Orleans or the Oleon, because I've never heard anyone pronounce it, but that's the old school way of making vinegar where basically you take a cask, you drill holes in it, put a screen over it so bugs can't get in, you let air get in.
+
+[36:48] And it's the air that allows the acetic uh acid, uh the acetobacter, the acetic acid bacteria, to grow, uh, and therefore turn your uh turn your wine or turn whatever your cider into vinegar. If there's no air, they won't grow. If after they're done, you continue to allow air in, then the acetic acid will be lost, it'll oxidize and go out. So you have to strike a balance there. If you want to make it quickly, then what you have to do is increase the surface area that the bacteria can grow on.
+
+[37:16] And so you can do things like mix wood chips in with the with the uh with the vinegar with the base or whatever, and then have the mother on top. You don't want to swamp out the mother because you have to get the population of bacteria relatively high. So, what most people do to maintain their mother is remove like three-quarters of your vinegar and then put without disturbing it, put uh you know the rest back in in terms of fresh liquid, and then you can keep it going. Eventually, your vinegar mother will probably fall to the bottom. Uh you scoop it out.
+
+[37:42] Hopefully, a new one will form because you'll have a colony in there. Uh, we spoke about vinegar mother, what it is a while ago, but it's mainly cellulose, bacterial cellulose. So it floats on top, and eventually maybe it will fall to the bottom. Um another thing, and uh, you know, I'm not an expert by any means in in vinegar, but um after you make it, you're probably gonna want to age it to kind of mellow it out a little bit. Some people age it just on its own, some people age it in wooden barrels, uh which are getting increasingly difficult to get.
+
+[38:09] The small wooden barrels are getting increasingly difficult to get. When you are aging it, uh people tend to pasteurize it to stop further bacterial change, for instance, that might turn the vinegar uh, you know, to actually consume some of the acid in the vinegar and ruin it. Uh so you can either exclude air or pasteurize it, or exclude air and pasteurize it and age it to get a variety of different flavors. How's that? Good.
+
+[38:30] Make sense? Semi-sense? Partial sense. Okay. Uh from Matthew.
+
+[38:35] Hi, Nastasha and Dave. I hope you're doing well, and a big congratulations on the opening of Booker and Dax. Thank you. I think it's a pretty good bar. I mean, like, you know, we're still working.
+
+[38:44] It's gonna get better and better every day. But I think I'm I think I'm proud of what we're doing. What about you? Yeah, yeah. Yeah, I'm proud of what we're doing.
+
+[38:51] Okay. I was recently given, which doesn't mean that we're nowhere near where we want to be, but I'm proud of what we're doing. Anyway, uh, I was recently given a Cuisinart ice cream machine, the kind where you pre-freeze the canister. I have made some excellent ice cream and with the help of some pastry chef friends, have learned to add some tweaks to my recipes that keep the ice cream from losing its smooth texture in the freezer and stay a little bit more stable at room temperature. And the two things uh that uh Matthew's adding are glucose syrup and gelatin.
+
+[39:18] Uh is there a simple formula for replacing sugar with glucose that could be applied to any ice cream recipe. My primary goal is to give ice cream a better texture post-freezer storage. Thanks, Matthew. Uh okay. So the simple there's no there's no simple anything.
+
+[39:37] You know what I mean? Uh, which is which is, you know, always always the problem. And uh I forgot to look up before I came in what the um what the solids uh ratio, what the solids content of glucose syrup is, but I think it hovers around 80%. I think it's in there. And you have to figure out what the DE, the dextrose equivalent of the glucose syrup is to figure out how how sweet it is.
+
+[39:59] But the book that I recommend, and most of it's online on Google Books, is called Glucose Syrups Technology and Applications. And there's a section on ice creams in there uh that talks about it. But basically what the glucose syrup, the glucose syrup is a c accomplishing uh a couple of things. It has a certain amount of sweetness to it, right? Uh not a lot, but a certain amount.
+
+[40:21] It depresses the freezing point of the uh of the ice cream base somewhat, right? But also it uh drastically increases the viscosity of the ice cream base. And what that's doing is it's gonna give you a kind of a denser, better mouthfeel and also prevent uh inhibit crystallization. The gelatin will also help with uh crystallization, but uh, you know, and anything you add, any hydrocolloid you add is going to uh help. Anything that increases the viscosity is gonna help prevent crystallization from happening uh once it's in your freezer afterwards.
+
+[40:54] So uh basically what you wanna do when you swap it out, let's assume that you don't want to um let's assume that you don't want to change the sweetness of your of your recipe. Uh so you have to look at what the relative sweetness of the glucose syrup is versus sugar. So your relative sweetness of uh of a of like a 42 DE glucose syrup is half, it's half as sweet as sugar. We're using low DE glucoserus when I usually do it, like a 28, and 28 is like 0.4 of the relative sweetness of it, and that's on a dry dry weight basis, right? But the freezing depression, uh so let's take glucose uh 28 DE glucose syrup.
+
+[41:37] It's a little under half the sweetness of uh of sucrose, right? But it has uh only half of the freezing point depression. So you need to add twice the like uh once you take into account the water that's in it, you're gonna you're gonna remove, let's say, uh you know, 200 grams of sugar, you're gonna have to add 400 grams of solids from glucose 28 DE to have the same sweetness, but you'll have a lot more solids, so it'll be a lot denser. Uh so this table is available on the Google Books, and you can get a sense of the relative freezing point depression and the relative sweetness for various different uh different sweeteners. So, so let's say you didn't want to add like that.
+
+[42:21] If you want to reduce the sweetness of something, right, but not really reduce uh the you know, not really change the freezing point depression or change the actual visc viscosity of it much, you could add glucose syrup, and then you could depress the freezing point further by adding small amounts of alcohol. And there's ratios in this table in this book that you can look at to really kind of get a better idea of what you're doing. But what you whenever you're swapping out sugar, you're removing body, you're changing the freezing point depression, and you're changing the sweetness. And all of those things need to be accounted for uh in an ice cream to balance out. So you you know, if you don't want to change anyone drastically uh or or there's gonna be problems.
+
+[43:00] Just uh what's cool about this book, the glucose syrup technology and applications in the ice cream section is that rather than go into really kind of technical uh explanations of trying to calculate things, they say, hey, look, uh calculate everything relative to sucrose. So the sweetness relative to sucrose, table sugar, and the freezing point depression relative to sucrose, and then just get into your head that ice cream should have a s uh like a a sucrose relative uh sweetness and relative freezing point depression, because sucrose we're taking it as one as unity, of 13 to 18. So something with uh with a soup with with basically 13, so 13% sugar in it is going to be hard, right? And uns not that sweet. And something with 18% is going to be relatively softer because it's gonna be have more of freezing point depression and relatively sweeter, right?
+
+[43:52] And so by by calculating the relative freezing point depression and relative sweetness to sucrose, you can play around with recipes fairly easily and try to get uh something that works for you. Does that make sense? Mm-hmm. Okay. Uh I I am being told.
+
+[44:07] Do I have any more questions or have I answered them all? I've answered all the online questions. I'm being told that I am out of time. So this has been Cooking Issues. Thank you.
+
+[44:17] And come again next week. Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up to date news and information.
+
+[44:56] Thanks for listening. You got my head all twisted. And I just can't get it straight.
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+[0:03] Broadcasting live from Roberta's in Bushwick, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. Hello, and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you live from Roberta's Pizzeria every Tuesday at an undetermined time. Supposed to be 12.
+
+[0:32] Happy Valentine's Day, people. This is the Valentine's Day uh issue of uh Cooking Issues. Call in all your questions live too. 7184972128. That's 718497-2128 here again with uh Nastasha the Hammer Lopez and uh the engineering crew near the room.
+
+[0:47] How are you doing, Stas? Good. So the reason I'm late today, today literally most of the time my fault. Most of the time, my fault. Check this one out.
+
+[0:53] I'm on I'm on the uh subway because I still haven't fixed my bike yet, mainly because I'm lazy. And uh I run, run, because I see see the train coming, right? The uh the uh J train, M train, whatever it is. I run like a lunatic, run, so I'm like I have a huge headache now, like almost like I'm gonna like get an aneurysm or something like that. Jump into the car, door shuts, and then promptly sits on the platform for 20 minutes.
+
+[1:18] They finally come on, open the door, and they say, Hey, uh, yeah, there's some lunatic. This is Valentine's Day in New York for you people. There's some lunatic walking across the tracks on the Williamsburg Bridge, like stumbling back and forth, apparently, I don't know, some star-crossed idiot. Like walking back and forth across the tracks on the Williamsburg Bridge. So there's no train traffic on the Williamsburg Bridge.
+
+[1:40] And they don't open the doors to let us out. They trap us like sardines in a box. Thank God my son wasn't there because that's his worst nightmare on earth. So I had to run out and get a taxi so that I could talk to you fine folks today. Anyhow, happy Valentine's Day.
+
+[1:53] Stas, what are you gonna do for Valentine's Day? I'm babysitting your kids. Yeah, because I have to go work at Booker and Dax, the bar. And first of all, it's only till 10, and Nastasha's night doesn't even begin until 11. I should be getting the pity party because my wife is away on Thanksgiving.
+
+[2:13] I won't even I mean it's Thanksgiving. On Valentine's Day, I won't even see my wife on Valentine's Day. I don't get a pity party for that. And check this out, people. Today, Valentine's Day is the 20th anniversary of me starting to go out with my wife.
+
+[2:27] Twenty I started my first day with my wife was on Valentine's Day 20 years ago today. And uh and I'm not even gonna see her today. All right. There you go. See, I believe I deserved a pity party for that one.
+
+[2:41] But uh yeah, I used to hate Valentine's Day. I hated Valentine's Day so much. Like my the first 20 years of my life, Valentine's Day, worst day in the world. But uh, you know, ever since then, ever since I started going out with my wife, it's been good day. Except today when she's not here.
+
+[2:55] Rah. Anyway. Okay. Oh, by the way, I realized I don't remember whether it was last week or the week before uh someone asked a question on uh Japanese Western style knives. Uh, because they they had a I forget which which brand it was, um uh I don't know, I forget.
+
+[3:09] But uh Japanese Western knives which are sharpened uh differentially on the two sides, like 3070 and whatnot. And the question they actually asked me, I realized this morning as I was showering, I was like, they actually asked me how do you use a steel with with a knife like that? And I realized I didn't actually answer that question. I didn't I talked a million for a million years about sharpening and different knife styles and everything, but never about how to actually uh use a steel. You can't.
+
+[3:31] Don't use a steel on a knife like that because it's almost impossible for you to accurately steal it uh with the two different uh edge angles. What I would recommend though is something that back when I used to have sharp knives in my house, and that means before I had a babysitter who would use my knives, uh, I don't know, I don't know what the hell she does with them, juggle. I don't know what the hell she does. But they're I can't keep them sharp anymore, so I stopped trying. So my knives are now.
+
+[3:54] I went from having like very, very sharp knives to having very, very dull knives. Um there's a cute kid, by the way, looking in the window of our radio station, pulling her hat on, staring at Nastasha. I think in horror. I think she's staring at Nastash Nastasha in horror. Anyway, um so what I recommend uh to keep knives like that super sharp is it is the same thing that barbers use for uh you know generations for razors, which is get yourself a leather belt, like a leather strop, wide one, hang it up uh somewhere in your kitchen, and uh strop your knife, and that really helps to bring uh like a light bit of an edge back.
+
+[4:28] You can either strop just with an oiled leather uh band, which is what I did, or use a super, super, super mild abrasive. But the reason it's okay is because you're going in the opposite direction than you would do when you're stealing, and so you're not gonna dull down uh your knife. And it helps to knock a little bit of the like minor burrs that happen as you're cutting. So I would go invest in a strop. I love it.
+
+[4:49] And plus, strops look badass when you're stropping a knife, it looks kind of badass. You ever stropped a knife, Ted? No. No? You don't like strops?
+
+[4:56] I wasn't really listening. Good, good. Well, it's good to see you're doing your job here as always. Okay. Uh hi, hi Dave and Nastasha.
+
+[5:04] A quick sausage question. I found some information on the cooking issues blog about cooking sausages directly in a liquid uh in a liquid with a circulator. One thing the blog didn't mention is how long it takes to get an average size sausage to temperature in a 60 degrees Celsius bath. Additionally, what is the maximum amount of time the sausages should be held at this temperature before the quality goes south? Thanks, Matthew.
+
+[5:24] Okay. Well, that's an interesting question. Uh, I should think that the that the interior of the sausage, I mean, any reasonable size sausage, it's going to be done probably in 40, 45 minutes, something like that. If you think about it relative to an egg. If you actually want to measure it, you can use uh one of the programs like Sous V dashboard that you can is available on uh on your iTunes or whatnot.
+
+[5:46] Uh and and you could check exactly, but within 45 minutes or so, uh the average size thick you know sausage should be done. Uh now I would hold it for longer than that because the the deal is is typically you have some tougher cuts of meat in a sausage and you're tenderizing it via um via grinding. That's one of the reasons why you grind it, right? Well, if you hold it longer and longer, the meat gets more and more tender. So depending on what cuts of meat are in it, uh, you could hold it for quite a long time at those temperatures, quite a long time.
+
+[6:15] Now, I've never held a sausage longer than oh six hours or so. But uh they were good at the end of uh six hours. The trick, remember, when you're when you're cooking sausage in a liquid like that, is to uh have the liquid be so flavorful that you're not leaching uh flavor out constantly over time. I would not cook them for any longer than necessary in an excess of flavorless liquid. Or you could put them in a Ziploc bag with a small amount of oil and cook them forever or bait not forever, but you know, for a long time, hours.
+
+[6:47] Uh, and they're just gonna probably get better, probably not get worse, depending on what kind of kind of cut of meat uh that you put into it. Um anyway, does that help? Mm-hmm. Anyway, it's a good technique. I do that technique all the time.
+
+[6:58] Everyone's like, I I think I told us on I said this on the show before, but I bought some really cruddy, not cruddy, but like you know, cheap, cheap sausage and peep and cooked it that way, 60 degrees, 60 or 62, depends. It's gonna be a little pink at the center at 60, which some people freak out about, so you might want to do 62, depending on what kind of meat is in the sausage. And depending on whether the sausage is already cured. If the sausage is cure a cured kind of sausage, if there's any sort of nitrites in it, it's gonna be pink anyway, and then you can cook it to whatever temperature you want, in which case I would do 60. If not, uh, you might want to do 62.
+
+[7:26] Depends on on uh how people feel. Uh, but uh anyway, I bought this cheap chorizo, and there were people like this is the most delicious sausage in the whole world. I was like, it's a circulator, it's not me. Anyway, uh I had something else with that, but I forget what it is. Oh, yeah.
+
+[7:42] Anyway, uh my my brain's a little fried because uh I'm saying, like, we we here at Cooking Issues haven't been burning uh the candle at both ends recently. We've just been taking the candle, throwing it in the oven and melting that sucker down. You know what I mean? It's like years ago, it's hilarious. Like uh, you know, I heard Drew Drew Neprunt, you know, the famous restaurant tour, he was giving a talk somewhere, I forget where I was, I was attending the talk, and he said this.
+
+[8:08] He said, uh, people always ask me, how do you balance, you know, like a family life and a restaurant life? And he said, you don't. Ha. And you were like, I can do it. Well, you know, yeah, whatever.
+
+[8:25] Anyway, funny. Okay. So uh here's the thing. Like, uh working at the bar until all hours of night, right? And then putting your kids on the bus in the morning, is not comp not like that, no, no work.
+
+[8:43] No work, right? So my brain therefore, it's not working. So if I'm a little frazzled today, folks, it's just because I'm stupid. Okay. Uh, dear Dave and Nastasha.
+
+[8:52] Uh a friend of mine recently found out she has celiac disease and therefore cannot have any more gluten. Uh I was attempting to create for her some of the homemade goodness that the rest of us get to enjoy, uh i.e. uh gluten, delicious, delicious gluten. But when looking on the internet, I found many conflicting suggestions for the use of Xanthan and Gwar gum, as well as suggested non-wheat flour blends tapioca, potato, millet, etc., without rhyme or reason as to the ratios used. Do you have any experience or advice for working with gluten free breads, pizzas, or pastas?
+
+[9:21] What changes in properties can I expect from different brands of flour? Uh what is uh working in xanthan gum that is intended to replace the gluten structure? Thanks for any help. Alex from Florida. All right, well, first of all, uh I don't have any actual experience uh cooking gluten free because I haven't had any uh I haven't had any need really to do it, you know, for my own family, and uh I cook occasionally, I'll cook some gluten free stuff if I have someone specifically coming over to my house, but I've never done a thorough, thorough researching of it.
+
+[9:51] Um, but I do have some advice. The the reason look, the the here's the reason it it it it's tough to, and that there's so many recipes out there is that wheat flour, right, is fantastic stuff. And uh there's and all of the recipes that you know we've been developing since time immemorial are based on the properties of wheat flour. Uh so you know, one of the flow pop properties of wheat flour is its flavor, right? Which we have all come to appreciate.
+
+[10:23] Uh, and the other one, uh the other other ones are its gluten, which provides structure. Uh there's a bunch of properties. And the issue with making a uh a replacement for wheat flour is that no one grain flour or no one flour uh has all of the properties of uh of wheat. So if you're trying to actually mimic a wheat flour product in terms of its texture, right, you're gonna have to use it uh a blend of uh of flowers, right? So that said, and I'll get to the the guar and the xanth in a second.
+
+[10:54] That said, uh, you know, a lot of people base the initial uh part of their recipe on rice flour, right? Because it's fairly bland, fairly neutral, right? And you know, it's not that expensive, it's easy to obtain, right? But if you use it uh exclusively, then it tends to make kind of dense leaden uh gritty things. So they add other uh you know starches and flours to it, like tapioca, for instance, uh, which is going to add some stretch because it's really kind of weird, gluey stuff, uh add some lightness, or potato, which uh helps absorb uh which helps keep things moist and also make things lighter.
+
+[11:35] So it's a balancing act between choosing uh those different um those different things. Now, when you go to add things like bean flours, which some people do, uh, that's gonna also add its own kind of holding capabilities, ability to hold bubbles and trap bubbles, which is what one of the great things about wheat flour is its ability, and this is what the gluten helps here is the ability to hold bubbles and form a nice structure when things are baking. Um so each flour has its different thing, but if you're gonna add bean flour, the problem is if it's a very uh light flavored thing, you start tasting the bean flour in it and it's and it's kind of gross. So if you need something sturdier and the flavor can be covered up, then you can use things like that. And if they can't, you have to use something more neutral.
+
+[12:15] In addition, uh a way to hold bubbles is to make things thicker. So people add starches that help thickening. So they're adding things like arrowroot starch, even though it's quite expensive, right? Uh a good thing I saw on the uh on the interwebs about this is uh from uh and and this what I like about it is just her opinion on on what the different flowers do. You go to gluten free mommy, and she has a list of all the different base flours and kind of what her uh opinion on kind of what they what they contribute or don't attribu uh contribute to particular uh mixes, including sorghum flour, white flour, uh white rice flour, and etc.
+
+[12:51] etc. etc. I mean the one problem I have with all these websites actually is that they look if you have an issue, like you can't have gluten, then focus on that. But everyone also throws in a bunch of nutritional mumbo jumbo about what's good for you and what's not good for you. I hate that.
+
+[13:05] I hate thinking, and my kids even do this. I hate it so much. Is my kids are like, is this good for you? Is that good for you? I'm like, it's all either good or not good for you, depending on the balance of things you eat in your diet.
+
+[13:16] There's no there are very few things that are bad for you. And there are very few things that are good for you. You know what I mean? Like if you ate only carrots, you would turn orange. You know, I told my kid that, and then he won't eat carrots, freaked out about carrots.
+
+[13:30] He thinks he's gonna turn orange. I'm like, no, no, you have to eat like many, many sacks of carrots. But the point is, variety is the spice of life, my friends. And you want to eat a lot of different things. Do you know what I'm saying?
+
+[13:40] Anyway, all right. So uh another issue on that. Now, so that that's just the different ratios of flour and what the rhyme or reason is is you want to get a balance that mimics the texture of wheat flour without having an uh uh an overly assertive taste. Usually the tastes are beanie, they call them beanie or kind of like you know, weird kind of like dusty, like you know, like like chickpea flour or like uh what's the black eye pea flour, things like that. Okay.
+
+[14:08] Now, as for Xanthan gum and guar gum, uh Xanthan gum is used to replace the protein because like protein, Xanthan gum can form a gel and really hold a light gel, right? And really hold air bubbles well. So it's used directly as a gluten replacer. Guar gum is cheaper than Xanthan gum, right? And the guar gum that you typically buy in the store has an awful, awful kind of beanie taste.
+
+[14:37] So I hate using it in things like ice cream. There's really nice, nice guar gum called flavor-free guar from TIC gums that is very neutral in taste. Uh, but guar isn't really as good a replacer for gluten as Xanthan, because Xanthan has the ability to form a loose gel structure that holds bubbles during the baking process, whereas guar is simply a thickener. So I wouldn't replace uh like I wouldn't say that guar on its own is going to do your job for you. But guarantection with Xanthan, guar can be used to replace some of the Xanthan and make the Xanthan a little bit cheaper.
+
+[15:15] Uh now uh another thing you can use if you're not like multiply going to make your life difficult is eggs. The protein in eggs is fantastic uh and and easy easy to use. And so that the protein in egg, egg white, and you know, I guess also an egg yolk, can help replace some of the gluten because it holds structure as well. Uh so you know, eggs, xanthan, uh guar, I mean, whatever. The then I came across a website that's actually pretty interesting, and apparently it's won a bunch of awards.
+
+[15:49] Uh, gluten-free girl and the uh chef. And here's something that they said that's uh very interesting. Uh by the way, I have some issues with the site. For instance, the I don't know whether it's the uh gluten-free girl or the chef who's who's writing this, uh, because I don't know that much about the website, but you know, they stopped using Xanthan and Guar. They use a lot, they the recipe I soften and they use a lot of eggs because it's their opinion that they're that they're having a negative reaction to the Xanthan and to the guar.
+
+[16:15] It could be that they're having a negative reaction to the guar. Guar is uh, you know, you don't really digest guar. And so if you eat eight boatloads of guar, it's like you know, it's like eating uh uh a serving of coal and blow, you know what I mean? And you're gonna, you know, you're gonna have some fiber issues. You know, it's like eating a whole boatload of fiber.
+
+[16:33] It's gonna give you some swelling and some poop. Anyway, but you know what I mean? It's like so that that that can be uh an issue. The good thing about Xanthan is I doubt anyone's actually having a reaction to the Xanthan because you're using it in much smaller quantities than you would use the guar. So it has less stuff that can go in there and cause you to bloat and swell and poo and all that kind of stuff, all that good kind of stuff.
+
+[16:54] Anyway, gluten-free girl and the chef, they don't use uh gum replacements like that, they don't use guaranthan, but they do use eggs. But they brought up an interesting point which I hadn't uh thought about, which is uh, I mean, I always bake with grams. Always 100% of the time. I bake in grams. That's not true, sometimes ounces, but by weight.
+
+[17:13] Uh and by weight is obviously everyone knows it's the best way to bake. And everyone in the world thinks that we Americans are small children in the kitchen because we use these dumb cup measurements to measure things out. And in general, we can get away with it because we're measuring the same thing over and over and over again, and even though we're plus or minus about 10% with our measurements, our recipes still work. I say we should switch away from uh using cups, not because of the accuracy, although that's great, but because it's really messy to measure with cups, and it's much easier to measure and to change recipes when you're using a scale. I mean, a scale is just the best thing to have.
+
+[17:48] Anyways, uh, it turns out that these different flours that you're substituting in when you're making your uh your gluten-free flour mix have radically different densities from AP uh wheat flour. And so if you switch to going by weight, your substitutions are gonna be much much easier. And so that is what I think a good recommendation from the gluten-free girl and the chef. Anyway, let's go to our first commercial break and come back with cooking issues. I like this.
+
+[19:31] And welcome back to Cooking Issues. Jack, what was that? That was uh the Pixies from Carlos. That was some weird stuff, Carlos. Yeah, man, that's what I was saying.
+
+[19:39] That's some weird, weird business. I mean, I know we're some weird people, but that's some weird, weird business. Uh calling order questions to 7184972128. That's 7184972128. Pixies.
+
+[19:49] That's that's what? That's Bjork? No, no. Bjork was the sugar cubes. Sugar cubes.
+
+[19:54] Man, you know what? And that was my era. Like, I should like this should be on the tip of my tongue, but that just wasn't my scene. You know what I mean? Yeah.
+
+[19:59] I was more fishbone chili peppers kind of a guy. Yeah, anywho. Uh, okay. The only reason I say that is because that's also weird. You know what I mean?
+
+[20:08] Bjork. All right. Uh, oh, uh, I forgot to mention the gluten-free girl and the chef. Those guys also use uh flax seed or chia seeds. You ever cook with that crap, Stas?
+
+[20:18] You blend it with a liquid and it turns to like a mucilaginous goop. So they also use that as a uh as a uh a structure replacer. But my point is this. If you're using a mucilaginous goop as a structure replacer, just use Xanthan. Xanthan's a great mucilaginous goop, and you don't have to go grind up flax seeds to do it.
+
+[20:38] My opinion. My opinion. Just me. Just me. Okay.
+
+[20:41] Uh oh, wait, I had something else. Oh, yeah. So when you're dealing with the gluten-free stuff, also, remember what you're using it for. A cookie doesn't need a lot of gluten. A cake doesn't need a lot of gluten.
+
+[20:50] So there you're just trying to mimic the texture of uh the texture of a wheat flour uh stuff, not necessarily the super. When you really need the hardcore gluten, is in a bread. In a cake, you want it to be fairly light. And this is another point that the gluten-free uh girl and the chef bring up, which is good, is that remember batters recipes a lot of times will tell you not to overmix, not to develop the gluten, and when you're dealing gluten-free, you don't have to worry about that kind of stuff. Uh so in a cookie or a cake, you can just focus on the taste and the texture of the kind of starch balance, the flour itself, uh, with just uh enough structure from the protein to give it some structure.
+
+[21:24] And you don't have to worry about it holding air in the way of a uh a bread would. So uh that's another reason why there's no one-to-one substitution because you're trying to do different wheat things with wheat flour depending on on what you're doing. Okay. Now, uh oh, by the way, we got uh something in from uh Elliot Papineau uh about uh stropping. Bob Kramer has a strop kit, uh so you can go online, look up Bob Kramer and purchase a strop kit.
+
+[21:49] Strops are really badass, I have to say. You look like you look like you're gonna like a like uh like Sweeney Todd Demon Barber of Fleet Street, like you're gonna go slit someone's throat as soon as you start stropping. Like if you were dropping a knife behind your kitchen counter, somebody like, yeah, I'm not gonna mess with that dude. That dude's dropping a knife behind the counter. Equally, it doesn't have to be a a guy, woman.
+
+[22:07] You know, when I say dude, it's kind of a gender-neutral dude. Is there any sort of gender-neutral? All of your appliances are women. What are you talking about? Not all my appliances are women.
+
+[22:16] Take her, make sure she's when you're talking about the centrifuge, the rotovap. You're crazy, you're a crazy lady. Okay. Uh Elliot also has a second point, which is that if you need to find uh the edge of your 70-30 knife, you just lay it flat on a stone and raise it until you feel the edge, that's good. Or I don't know if I mentioned this using a sharpie on the edge, you can feel you can look and see whether you're being accurate to do it when you want to test your edge.
+
+[22:41] Anyway, okay. He also writes in with a question, uh, Elliot does, and says, Whenever you get on the air, can you talk about the different sources of glutamate? I've been experimenting with uh various uh uh free glutamate uh containing products such as tomatoes, mushrooms, kambu, katsuabushi. And what's the best way to pair foods containing free glutamates? Well, uh that's good point and interesting.
+
+[23:02] I always uh find it hilarious when someone eats something that contains eight boatloads of uh of uh you know free uh you know glutamate there, and then they say that they have a reaction to uh MSG. Nastasha. Yeah. I'm talking about you. I know.
+
+[23:16] Anyway, uh so I mean the best thing to do is like so the classic think about it this way the classic pairing, classic, classic, classic pairing, obviously, is kambu, which is uh has a high source of uh free glutamates and katsu bushi, which has uh high high IMP. Those two things go together uh and basically synergistically react to make like megammy, mega umami, which is why kambu uh, which is why the c like combu and katsuobushi are so good together. And Nastasha hates, by the way, kambu broth. I do. But you like it once you add katsuabushi and turn it into miso sauce.
+
+[23:50] Yes. You just don't like the CV broth on its own. Yes. Anyway, so it's good to have cavity fillings. What?
+
+[23:55] It tastes like cavity fillings. Uh well, I wouldn't know. My teeth are fine. I don't have any cavities. I've never had a cavity, and I've never heard anyone describe it like that, so I'm sure you're being crazy like usual.
+
+[24:05] Cavity fillings. Why would kambu to stock taste like cavity filling? What do they make cavity fillings out of? I don't know. Aluminum?
+
+[24:12] No. You tell me if you aluminum? Aluminum. I think so. No, they used to be made out of a mercury amalgam, but they're not anymore.
+
+[24:22] It's aluminum, no. No! Why would you put aluminum in your mouth? Crazy, crazy person. It's nuts.
+
+[24:29] You know, people, seriously. People, people. Seriously. Okay. Uh so how do we get on there anyway?
+
+[24:36] Oh, yeah. So uh when you're when you're pairing things together, I mean, obviously, uh, you know, it's good to add uh I mean, I just throw a bunch of those things. I have to cook a lot of vegetarian stuff uh because uh a couple members of my family are vegetarian and they come over. So a lot of my sauces that I used to umami up by throwing in anchovies, uh, because anchovies are delicious in everything. You could throw anchovies into just about anything.
+
+[24:59] And I'm not talking about the white ones that you know everyone like, you know, they they love like the bookarones and stuff like that, which are great, they're great, fine, whatever. But like, you know, good old-fashioned salt cured anchovies uh in the can uh are like you know, one of God's great ingredients, and they make almost anything taste better. Everyone says they don't like them, and no one has ever said they don't like them when it's mixed into a pizza sauce, pizza sauce good with anchovy, yeah. Stash is nodding her head, but now salad dressing, good with an anchovy in it. Any of that stuff.
+
+[25:24] You want to you want to umelate something, bang, hit it in, you're done. Anyway, umamelate you heard it here first, cooking issues, umamalite. Uh but the uh uh the point is so like you know, you have to you have to add other high umami stuff. Now, you can go and work on things like tomatoes, and yes, I use boatloads of uh tomato paste when I'm when I'm because it's like super concentrated tomato. Obviously, you use lots of mushrooms to get that meaty stuff up, parmesan, these are you know, all obvious, and you end up, you know, you end up doping stuff back with a whole boatload of soy, right?
+
+[25:57] The problem with me is is that trying to get meaty and uh high umami flavors by uh just adding high umami ingredients like that, specifically soy and whatnot, really let lend lets makes everything kind of taste the same. It it kind of it makes all of the food have a similarity to it that you don't get uh from just, for instance, adding salt. So like uh I think I talked about this like you know, I don't know, a year ago or something like that. You know, a lot of companies are trying to lower the sodium content of their foods, and the only way they can this is the world's worst term and it shows how people think, but uh increase the palatability of the things that they make uh when they reduce the sodium. Isn't that gross there?
+
+[26:40] We're trying to reduce the sodium but increase but keep the palatability, just gross, right? It's like not like we're gonna make some delicious stuff. It's like you know, we're gonna we're gonna we're gonna make it more palatable. Anyway, so they they dope it with um with a non-sodium form of uh glutamate so that they can keep the quote unquote sodium level low. Uh and they do it using that like also quote unquote natural sources, which means that they'll take like eight eight tons of seaweed and turn it into a powder.
+
+[27:06] Might as well just use MSG. Anyway, uh problem is when you dope foods with specifically with like lots of free glutamates like that, they tend to then all taste like dashi to me, right? Mm-hmm. You've had that also happen too, right? I was tasting somebody's pasta.
+
+[27:21] I think I mentioned this. I was tasting someone's pasta and it was it was a fettuccine alfredo, right? And which is what I strangely what I call my wife sometimes, because it's like Jennifer, Jennifer, Fred, Freddie, Freddie, any whatever. Anyway, like all almost everything I say in in private when I'm not on the air is some stupid, stupid combination of crazy, dumb, random inferences. You know what I mean?
+
+[27:45] Anyway, uh so Fettuccine Alfredo, I was like, this tastes good, but Federcini Alfredo is not supposed to taste like Dashi. Am I wrong? Am I wrong? Right? Anyway.
+
+[27:54] Anyways. Uh so that's my feeling, Elliot, uh uh on that. Should we do one more commercial? Before I go on the more commercial break, I'll have to say this. My favorite Valentine's quote of all time.
+
+[28:04] Last year I was in the Rite Aid outside of my house, which is a pharmacy for all you people that don't know what a right aid is. Nastasha hates them because she only shops at TVS. She literally went better music. Okay, okay. She literally last last week Nastasha had a root canal, right?
+
+[28:17] So I hope she was high on Vikodin when she made this choice. She went to a she went out of her way to go to a CVS, even though they had a two hour wait for the medicine. If she could have got it in the 10 minutes at the right age, she would two hours like out of her way, two hours wait for his medicine because she likes to hold music better. No. Yes.
+
+[28:35] The store music. The store music. Whatever. Yes. Whatever.
+
+[28:39] That's hold. You're on hold. Really? I know. I know.
+
+[28:44] Crazy, right? You know, put on your iPod, listen to whatever music you want, and don't wait two hours for your Vicodin, your antibiotics. That's my point. Anyways, I'm in the right A like a year ago, and they had the Easter decorations out right around now. And someone let a lady walks in, she goes, Easter, it ain't even Valentine's Over yet.
+
+[29:03] Anyway, commercial break. My name is Cupid Valentino. The Martin Bay Cupid. I just want to say one thing. Happy Valentine's Day.
+
+[29:23] I don't think that hurt, man. I just want to say happy Valentine's Day. Can y'all do that? Now, when arrows don't penetrate. Let's see.
+
+[29:41] Huh? Yeah. Yeah. Now look at here. He straight for your heart.
+
+[29:48] Now you won't miss you. Well, that's alright. Y'all won't believe in me anyway, but all this talk about Santa Claus will rule supreme. Every day in the Ford game. You got it.
+
+[30:22] When a cute hit knocks at your door. You can't ignore me. There's no need to rhyme. So happy Valentine's Day. Hey.
+
+[30:36] You can't, you cannot ignore the cube. And by the way, I just looked out the window, and Indy Jesus looks like he's having a fine Valentine's Day. Oh yeah. Yeah, he's a smile on Indy Jesus' face. You know what it takes to get Jesus to smile?
+
+[30:48] You know? Anyway, today's show is sponsored by the Modernist Pantry, supplying innovative ingredients for the modern cook. Do you love to experiment with new cooking techniques and ingredients? But hate, hate, hate to overspend for pounds of supplies when only a few grams are needed per application. Modernist Pantry has a solution.
+
+[31:02] They offer a wide range of modern ingredients and packages that make sense for the home cook and enthusiast. And most cost only around five bucks, saving you time, money, and storage space. Whether you're looking for hydrocolloids, pH buffers, or even meat glue, you'll find it at Modernist Pantry. And if you need something that they don't carry, just ask. Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you.
+
+[31:20] With inexpensive shipping to any country in the world, Modernist Pantry is your one-stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients. Modernist Pantry carries sequestrants, including sodium citrate and sodium hexametophosphate. These ingredients act as a preservative and also mop up straight calcium ions, which is helpful when working with hydrocholorides and gel in the presence of calcium. AKA, sodium alternate, and calcogella. Okay, which is Jel Ann.
+
+[31:42] Uh, fans of cooking issues that place an order of $25 or more before next week's show, we'll get a free pack uh free package of sodium hexametaphosphate to play with. Simply use the promo code CI72 and placing your order online at modernistpantry.com. Visit modernistpantry.com today for all of your modernist cooking needs. Hey and Chris Anderson, good for you for doing the sodium hexametaphosphate and not the sodium citrate. Sodium hexametaphosphate is the baller sequestering.
+
+[32:04] Sodium citrate is more of a buffer. Sodium hexametaphosphate or shimp as they call it. That stuff's the balls. It's good stuff. Oh, also, Colin, longtime writer in Colin, writes, because you know I always gripe about what's the difference between a home cook and an enthusiast.
+
+[32:18] What are we talking about? So Colin writes in regarding enthusiasts. You don't need to cook anything to play with hydrocolloids. Science nerds love that stuff, but some can't actually feed themselves. Thus I believe the distinction, Colin.
+
+[32:32] Other topics, uh, my wedding anniversary, which I'm not my wedding anniversary. No, no, no, no. That was my note to you. I thought Colin knew my anniversary something. I was crazy.
+
+[32:40] It's like, how's Colin gonna know that? It's not my wedding anniversary. I got married in June. It's my anniversary of going out. Nastasha, you know what?
+
+[32:45] Like, listen, Nastacha, when you put this stuff on there, put it our comments in a different color. Just so you know how this show runs. Like your comments when you write them are in black, and my comments that I make to jog my memory when I'm yapping on the radio, I write in blue, so I can tell what's us and what's you. And the headline of your question I write in red. Not that anyone gives a rat's patoot.
+
+[33:06] Okay. Uh now. What? I can't say patoot. You thought Colin knew.
+
+[33:12] I thought Colin was like other topics. It's random. Okay. Okay. So we have a question in from uh Marvin uh Woodhouse saying, uh, loves the show and been listening from Ireland and now Germany since day one.
+
+[33:24] From Ireland to Germany. It's pretty cool. I wonder what I wonder what uh I wonder what the they do. Yeah, what do they do that they're moving from Ireland to Germany? I wonder, curious.
+
+[33:32] Anyway. Question one. I'm in the process of moving to Germany, and most apartments here do not come with kitchens. Just a bare room with tiles and connections. So I'll be starting from square one.
+
+[33:41] What's the must-have list of stuff in it uh if you were starting from a bare room? Nothing, not even extraction. That's a hood for you and I in America. Uh the kitchen will be about 20 square meters. So Nastasha, look up what 20 square meters is in square feet so my brain can wrap my head around it.
+
+[33:55] Okay. First of all, I know there's plenty of people here in New York City that wish their apartment came with no kitchen because it's just wasted space. How many people do you know that use their oven as a bookcase? I do, which is crazy. First of all, uh just a separate note.
+
+[34:08] Anyone out there, never store crap in your oven, right? It just means that you have a mental imbalance or a problem. Yeah. Don't ever store stuff in your oven. It's just it's just not right because it implies you're not going to use it.
+
+[34:21] If you're gonna cook, don't store anything in your oven. My two cents. So what's 20 square meters? Coming. Oh, thanks, Google.
+
+[34:28] Thanks, ATT with the slow Google. All right. First thing is first, as you mentioned, extraction. It's my feeling that a hunt light like the the biggest it's eventually gonna be seen as a health issue, right? For people who cook a lot.
+
+[34:41] 215.2 square. Oh, that's good. 215, that's about the size of my kitchen. That's a good space. It's a good size space.
+
+[34:47] Uh I mean it's small by suburban standards, but you know, my kitchen's pretty comfortable at 200 square feet, right? Yeah. I can have eight people cooking in my kitchen. But it's very well designed. Anyway, if I do say so myself.
+
+[34:58] Uh, but uh extraction a hood is the most important thing. Everyone here is underdesigned in terms of uh their hoods. Home hoods suck. Uh they're the worst. They're useless.
+
+[35:09] Not useless, but they're they're of limited usefulness. I would invest in a really good fan uh vent that this is illegal in the US. I don't know whether it is in Germany. Vent it straight out the window with a straight pipe, straight out the window. Uh I purchased a large blower and it the hood itself doesn't need to be expensive.
+
+[35:29] It's just a piece of metal. It's the fan that you need uh uh good fan. And bigger fans rotate at slower speeds and therefore are not as annoying as little fans that rotate at high speeds. So I would say if you're gonna spend uh you know your nickels, first of all, go with good uh a good hood. Secondly, if you're in Germany, I haven't checked it recently, but I assume it's similar to France in that the gas prices are relatively high relative to electric compared to the US.
+
+[35:54] Get an induction uh get induction. If you're gonna be in this apartment a long time, then go ahead and get something that's built in. Otherwise, you can get really nice induction hobs that you can take with you when you go. In particular, some manufacturers now make front back uh induction units so that you can uh mimic an actual traditional uh range by stacking induction units next to each other and having front back on induction. So I would uh you know I would definitely go that way.
+
+[36:22] If you want to go more permanent, you can get uh an induction uh, you know, a regular induction over range, but the over range the over things don't necessarily work that well. But I'll go separate. Uh get a good convection oven with uh with um a good convection oven would be nice. Uh electric there as well. Uh I'm assuming that you're again I'm assuming that electricity is gonna be the best for you there in terms of uh cost.
+
+[36:46] So uh again, I really don't have any idea what you're gonna. I'll tell you what I have in mind, which is about the same spot. I have I have a large uh oven that could take a full sheet pan. If you're gonna cook, you wanted that. It's not necessary, but full sheet pan is again baller I have six burners you're probably not gonna have that if you don't have extraction especially if you're gonna go induction I also have a salamander which you're probably not gonna put in your place but I love it uh and a deep fry next to it I find that that combination which I don't expect you to emulate is I can cook I can bang out uh like a small restaurant's worth of food in my kitchen without breaking a sweat because it is the setup that you would have in a small restaurant kitchen basically I have a fryer a salamander six burners and a and a full sheet pan uh oven obviously for me it's important to have an espresso machine uh but you know whatever since you're building this yourself you can do some cool stuff the coolest thing that you could possibly do is uh put foot pedals on your sink every every sink uh in the in the world in a kitchen or bathroom should have foot pedals installed so that when your hands are disgusting you don't have to touch the faucet so I have uh I have hot and cold foot pedals uh on my on my floor and my wife who didn't think it was uh so important or such a good idea she was like really really now is like yes really you need that everyone who's used them loves it and since you're installing from scratch uh get get the foot pedals don't skimp on your sink size sink size you're never gonna need too you know sink size is important right don't you hate a tiny sink what do you think yeah I hate tiny sinks tiny sinks tiny sinks is there anything else for you that's good good recognition oh no my patch that's the hey Patrick Martins founder of Heritage Foods coming into the studio hey everybody yeah there he is oh he's got some really nice orange corduroys that I now covet you covet I covet Patrick Martin's orange corduroy pants.
+
+[38:31] Okay. 18 miles, baby. What? What happened eighteen miles. Of what?
+
+[38:35] In two days I ran. Oh, Patrick ran 18 miles in in two days. I don't know that it's not good for your knees. That's you know, that's bad for your knees. You know.
+
+[38:43] Anyway. Okay, question two from Marvin. Uh I have a badass poly science lab circular uh circulator, model uh eight eight one two. By the way, I couldn't find eight eight one two. But the unit is so big that it's difficult to fit food round in the small bath that's designed to fit.
+
+[38:56] I've removed it from the lab bath, but there's no mounting bracket. Do you have any experience of mounting these things to or over a sink? I haven't actually mounted one of those to a sink, but uh you might want to look at this as an alternative. Uh though uh some of those units, the a the uh and I couldn't find your exact one, but I have one that looks similar to it, have two screws in the back of it uh on the bath itself that allow you to circulate in and out of that same bath. So you could literally just put uh hoses and circulate into a sink and put the whole circulator into a cabinet next to it.
+
+[39:30] And I've done that many times. That's how I chilled my rota vap, for instance. Uh you just have to make sure you get the water levels uh relatively the same so that you don't overflow your circulator bath. But uh I would do that, or else you could just uh make a second uh I mean if you could weld, obviously you could do it, but you could easily mount one by just having someone cut out a stainless steel bracket with the same hole mounting pattern as the one that was in the bath and then cantilever it over your sink. I would make it with wing nuts so that you could take it off uh very quickly without taking up too much space.
+
+[40:00] But yes, it's definitely possible. But look into just using the bath as uh as a holding bin so that you can circulate stuff in and out. Question three. I'm throwing a cocktail party next month. Uh to Marcus leaving Ireland.
+
+[40:11] Can you have a caller? Oh wait, I have a caller, caller, you're on the air. Hey, Dave. Uh, uh this is Todd Bryant. Got a quick question for you.
+
+[40:20] Go ahead. Um on following up on your knife uh discussion a couple weeks ago. Uh how often do you use a steel on your knives? Uh well, back in the day on my German uh on my German knives, I would use them pretty much uh, you know, before and after, pretty much all the time. Or when my strop was hanging, I would I would strop them before and after.
+
+[40:43] I mean, it all depends on what kind of uh what kind of knife. So my German ones, I I used to sharpen uh I you know, just not a quick one, you know, I wouldn't like go through the whole sharpening process, but I'd touch up the blades on the stone probably once a week. And uh and then you know, I would strop and or steal every use. My Japanese knives, you touch them up every time you use them, basically, afterwards, you know. Uh and you know, the the the real traditional Japanese ones.
+
+[41:10] And the Japanese Western ones, I never had much of a knack sharpening them. I got I so I ended up I ended up not using them as much because I was not so good at sharpening them. Okay. All right. So just touch my before and after then.
+
+[41:21] Uh yeah, I would know. Well, then how do you know when it's time to do a full sharpening? Or you just do that automatically once a week? Yeah, I would just do it automatically, or if they start dulling out or someone picks up your knife and uses it for something inappropriate, you know, it's like you you know, you know when your knife is getting dull. You know when you can't bring it back, and the tomato you start having to push into it and you split the tomato, you know what I mean?
+
+[41:43] Yeah, yeah. Yeah. So it's just, you know, you could do it by that. I find it easier if you just choose a time to do it. It depends on how much you cook.
+
+[41:50] You know what I mean? But uh if you just choose a time to do it, uh then your knives are always gonna be in fantastic shape, and you're not gonna get creep and start using uh uh a dull knife when it could be sharp. So back when I could have sharp knives in my house, I would just have a routine, and you know, every Sunday before I started cooking family dinner, I would just go through my knives and sharpen it. I used an edge pro, which was easy to set up because I could just keep most of my knives at a similar edge angle and I can rip through them pretty quickly. An edge pro is not a good uh sharpening system to sharpen one knife.
+
+[42:20] It's good to sharpen your whole set of knives. You know what I mean? Because you have to set it up and all that stuff. Yeah. Okay, great.
+
+[42:27] Well, that's what you answered my question. Thank you very much. Thank you. Uh all right, so uh question three, and I gotta answer this one. Uh again from Marvin.
+
+[42:35] I'm throwing cocktail party next month to Marcus leaving Ireland. Can you suggest some interesting cocktails and canope combos? Or as I call them canaps. I have an uh ISI but no proper carbonation rig. I also have agar gelatin.
+
+[42:46] I also need some non-alcoholic cocktails that are not lame as there will be some pregnant ladies in attendance. Okay, well I hit the non-alcoholic stuff. I say make coriander the coriander syrup. Mm-hmm. Right.
+
+[42:55] So if you make coriander syrup, just take make a simple syrup, crush up coriander, put it in there, add a little bit of uh like a hot pepper, preferably red, like Thai, red, or serrano or something like that. Um that syrup makes a fantastic soda, and you can carbonate in an ISI, it's just gonna cost you more. And the way you carbonate in an ISI is by uh sh shaking, adding some water, shaking the syrup with uh with water, and then putting one CO2 cartridge in, shaking a little bit, venting that entire one off. You've cleared out all of the uh air in there in that now. Now put a second charger on, shake it, and you'll get a good uh second CO2 charger in your ISI.
+
+[43:32] Uh vent very very let sit for a couple of minutes after you shake it, let it vent very slowly, and you can get a decent soda, and that's good. That syrup is also really good as a cocktail for uh old fashions, it makes a great old fashioned uh makes a good tequila old fashioned, good mezcal old fashioned. Uh, we've been using that uh in everything. That if you do make an old fashioned using coriander syrup, it's called a cliff old fashioned because uh you know, Cliff or you know, uh ex-intern Cliff uh came up with the idea of making a uh what's it called an old fashioned with that syrup uh you have any Nastasha's gonna think of good uh canaps while I answer your last question and not you have uh next month I have a week to think we have a week to think of your Knaps can I pay so I'll come back to it and also I will next week suggest some things that you might be able to use with your one kilogram of NZORBIT that's in your kitchen listen Marvin if you have one kilogram of NZOBI in your kitchen that's almost going to take up your entire 200 square foot space because one kilogram of end zorbit is a giant giant amount of NZOBIT and Zorbit for all that you don't know is the is the stuff that you make power uh oils into powders with but I'll come back with you on that Marvin next week and we'll do it and that has been this week for cooking issues thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on HeritageRadio Network dot com as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows.
+
+[44:59] You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes you can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up to date news and information. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:03] Broadcasting live from Roberta's in Bushwick, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, the host of Cooking Issues coming to you live actually 15 minutes early today, right? Usually we start 15 minutes late.
+
+[0:30] Today we're starting 15 minutes early. Uh, whatever. Whatever. 10 minutes early is like eight years early as far as we're concerned here. Anyway, coming to you semi live from Robertus Pizzeria in Bushwick Brooklyn on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from roughly 12 to roughly 1245.
+
+[0:46] Uh today actually we had to shift it a little bit earlier because I have to go do an interview on uh that's public radio, right? Yeah. Yeah, it's just the splendid table. And some Nincom Poop thought that it would be a great idea for me to uh skip my own radio show to go do somebody else's, which makes no sense, right? So should you happen to be listening early or uh or you know in the next 10 minutes or so, call in your questions to 718497-2128, then 718497-2128.
+
+[1:18] Uh, might as well actually go through the uh who's sponsoring us today, right? Now uh today's it Well, it's sponsored by the Modernist Pantry again, which is what you know we're used to having sponsored by, but we don't have a new promo, so I'll just read the old one. Ready? Today's show is sponsored by Modernist Pantry, supplying innovative ingredients for the modern cook. Do you love to experiment with new cooking techniques and ingredients?
+
+[1:36] But hate, hate, hate to overspend for pounds of supplies when only a few grams are needed per application. Modernist Pantry has a solution. They offer a wide range of modern ingredients and packages that make sense for the home cook and enthusiast. And most cost only around five bucks, saving you time, money, and storage space. Whether you're looking for hydrocolloids, pH buffers, or even meat glue.
+
+[1:55] You'll find it at Modernist Pantry. And if you need something that they don't carry, just ask. Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you. With inexpensive shipping to any country in the world. Modernist Pantry is your one stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients.
+
+[2:07] Modernist Pantry carries sequestrants, including sodium citrate and sodium hexametophosphate. These ingredients act as a shimp. I call that stuff shimp. These ingredients act as a preservative and also mop up straight calcium ions, which is helpful with working at hydrocolloids that gel in the presence of calcium, like sodium alginate or uh gel an. Uh fans of cooking issues that place an order of $25 or more before next week's show, we'll get a free package of sodium hexametaphosphate to play with.
+
+[2:32] Simply use the promo code CI72 when placing your order online at modernistpantry.com. Visit modernistpantry.com today for all of your modernist cooking needs. Right? Mm-hmm. Yes.
+
+[2:44] Oh, by the way, Jack, uh, we have a uh request from uh Marvin Woodhouse, the the gentleman that's moving from Ireland to Germany, more on more on him later. Uh he uh requests Fool's Gold by the uh Stone Rose Stone Roses. Can we uh accommodate him for our break? Oh, yes we can. Wow.
+
+[3:03] I like the Obama reference. Yes, we can. All right. Uh in from uh Marty, just a quick question. I was making a quick red sauce by browning my meat, and because I was too lazy to chop, I buzzed the canned tomatoes, raw vegetables, and seasoning in a blender before adding it to the pot.
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+[3:18] Seemed to work. So, in a long braise, is there any purpose for sweating the vegetables when you're not looking for caramelization? That's an interesting question. Mm-hmm. Right?
+
+[3:28] Well, I don't know. Uh I would assume that even if you're not browning, let's say let's take onions. Let's just take onions. First of all, I like to get a little color on some of my vegetables when I'm working with them when I'm sweating them out. What about you, Stas?
+
+[3:41] Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Uh now typically, you know, in a Frenchy French recipe, though, they're specifically not looking for color because they want to maintain, you know, the color of the sauce that they're making, even though all those classic French sauces end up a gloppy brown anyway, right?
+
+[3:55] I mean, let's face it. Right? Anyway, so uh they they're sweating them out to not get color. However, even below the um take an onion, even before real color is formed, there are flavor uh changes that take place in terms of sweetness. I don't know if those same kind of flavor transformations are gonna take place in the same way if you just blend them and then cook them.
+
+[4:16] Certainly in a long braise, the the liquid will be there enough to soften the vegetables to cook them. But the question is, is there any significant flavor change by pre-sweating and then adding? I don't know. Uh I would bet that uh it'd probably be minor if it exists at all, except for perhaps onion sweetness, but it's an interesting question. That's the kind of thing you should really just do uh side by side trial, you know.
+
+[4:39] Take one, blend it beforehand, cook it, take the other, sweat it, then blend it, and then uh bring them both up to the same temperature and serve it, make sure the dilution's right. Sounds like an interesting experiment, right, Stas? Yeah. So uh follow that under, hey, I have no idea. Okay.
+
+[4:52] Hi, Anastasia, Dave, Jack, and Carlos from Mark Younger. I was taking a truffles class at a local kitchen supply store, by the way, chocolate truffles, not the stuff that's growing underground, even though it this is the you know good season for crap that's growing underground. Actually, it's I guess it's a little late, right? Valentine's Day is the end? Yeah.
+
+[5:08] Anyway, you're like, yeah, I'm not paying attention to the phone. No, Jack's texting me. So helping you out. Yeah, sure. Yeah.
+
+[5:13] Anyway. Uh I was taking a uh Troubles class at local kitchen supply store and ended up getting into a discussion with the chef about how one might use an immersion circulator to make dealing with chocolate easier. It is pretty clear that it would be a great way to hold tempered chocolate as long as you were careful in getting all the water off the bags before you use the chocolate. The question we couldn't figure out is whether you could use the immersion circulator with its precise control of temperature to temperature temper the chocolate in the first place. This would presumably require melting the chocolate at the desired temp, then lowering the temp to get the level you traditionally aim for by either seating or uh tabling the chocolate, and then raising the temperature back up to get proper crystal formation.
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+[5:47] Are you aware of whether this works or whether there's another way to temper chocolate in the immersion circulator? Uh Mark, okay. That's an interesting question. Uh I have been told a billion times that it works. Uh I've never actually done it, but uh we'll go into a very quick discussion of tempering chocolate for those out there who aren't hip to chocolate tempering.
+
+[6:06] So uh the cocoa butter and chocolate is uh goes into a number of different crystal forms, right? Only one of which is the desirable beta crystal that provides a snap and uh looks shiny and awesome and tastes awesome, right? Uh uh it f it basically is in direct distinction with beta prime forms, which are softer, melt at a lower temperature, don't have a snap, and it's just in general crap, right? So you really want a good for most applications, although not for truffles, for truffles is fine. You know what I mean?
+
+[6:39] Who cares in a truffle? It's a ganache. Ganache. Anyway, so um uh what you want to do when you temper chocolate, now the beta prime crystals, right, they will swamp out if you're cooling chocolate that's melted, right? Like the beta prime crystals will swamp out the good beta crystals and you'll end up with untempered chocolate.
+
+[6:57] This is why if you just heat chocolate uh up and then let it cool back down again, you get an untempered sloppy mess, right? Uh so the good news is that well, here's how you do it. So you heat up the chocolate and you melt all the crystals out. Then you cool it down and uh into the high 80s somewhere, and in that range, in the 80s somewhere, uh crystals start forming. Mostly the crappy ones, the uh the you know beta primes, right, and also the uh betas.
+
+[7:23] Then you heat the mixture up slowly again into a range where all the beta prime crystals melt, but the uh sorry, yeah, the beta prime crystals melt, but the beta crystals are still good. And then you hold it there for a while, and then when you chill it again, those beta crystals act as the seeds and you get tempered chocolate. Bang, bang, right? And since it's all about very accurate temperature control, this is possible. You can do this uh with an immersion circulator.
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+[7:48] And you certainly could melt all of the chocolate up to a high temperature, drop it all, wait for it to get viscous and you see it start seeding it, and then bring it up uh very accurately with it with an immersion circulator. However, you should be able to do uh an even simpler technique, which is throw the entire uh block of probably graded pre-tempered chocolate, right? If you start with a tempered chocolate, uh in a bag, vacuum it down, and throw it in a circulator at like 92, 90, 91, 92, in a place that will uh melt the undesirable crystals but leave all your seed crystals intact. And I think that will work. I don't know if you need to take it above the total melting point of the chocolate before it'll become viscous enough to work.
+
+[8:32] Um I don't think so, because I've heard that I've heard you can do that, although I've never tried it. Either technique would work. It would just be a much simpler if you could just throw it in at the working temperature and go from there, right, Stuff? Yeah. I don't know.
+
+[8:43] Give it a try. I've heard it works. I've never done it. You ever done it? No.
+
+[8:47] No. You could ask Brooks or someone. Anyway. Uh uh Carlos, by the way, here's one, here's one for you. Hi, Nastasha, Dave, Jack, and the other guy.
+
+[8:56] Wow. Wow. The other guy. Even Indy Jesus has a name. Yeah, yeah, right.
+
+[8:59] Even Indy Jesus gets called out by name. Carlos becomes the other guy. You know, that reminds me, uh, I think I'm I don't know if I've mentioned this on the air, but the very first uh season of Gilligan's Island in the song, it's you know, Gilligan, the skipper too, the millionaire and his wife, the movie star, and the rest. That's what they say. They're like, the movie star and the rest here on Gil Wait, really?
+
+[9:28] Like, just it takes just as much energy to say Professor and Mary Ann as it does to say and the rest. And I think, you know, and because Mary Ann was obviously the hot one, right? And the and the professor was really cool. Everyone liked the professor, right? So in subsequent seasons, it was you know, the movie star, Professor and Mary Ann, I mean, which sounds even better than and the rest.
+
+[9:48] And the rest? Really? Come on now. And you know, Mary Ann's the one that ended up writing like the Gilligan's Island cookbooks, and I think keeps track of all the reunion stuff of all the people that are still alive. How do you know that?
+
+[10:01] What do you mean how do I know that? How does how do you not know that? Give first of all, Gilligan's Island, you know, a cultural milestone in American uh TV history. And uh, you know, Carlos, the other guy. Anyway.
+
+[10:13] He has a name. Now you're pulling out the Jim Croce references. That's actually the only reason why it's the only reason why. But so for for those of you that don't know, Jim Croce, the whatever, however you classify his singing, you know, died in a plane crash, I guess in the 70s. Nastasha and I have this ongoing kind of Jim Croce inside joke thing.
+
+[10:33] Yeah, love hate thing. Because like Jim Croce, when he's singing something, he's like, he never gets to the damn point. Like he'll call someone on the telephone, an operator who doesn't give a rat's ass about what he's talking about, and he'll sit there and chew this operator's ear off for like three or four minutes about this like lady he's trying to call, and then he's like, you know what? Forget about it and keep the dime. Like she gives a crap about the dime.
+
+[10:52] She's working for the phone company. Or this other one, he's like calling up this girl at like, you know, three in the freaking morning, saying, you know, I know it's kind of late. You know, then there's I hope I didn't wake you. What the hell? It's late.
+
+[11:03] And you're like this long ass story about how you has had to say that you love her in a song. Can't you do that at a reasonable damned hour? Makes no damn sense. Croaty. Well, we love him.
+
+[11:13] We love him anyway. We love crochet. Anyway, so the uh got a name references to a croochy song, long way of getting around it. Anyway, uh so Matthew says, I've been playing around with making mozzarella at home using some commercial cheese curds. It comes out really nice.
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+[11:26] I just cut the curds into little pieces, let them come up to room temperature, heat up some lightly salted water between 180 and 190 degrees Fahrenheit, pour it over the curds, powder them a little, then pull out a ball of the cheese. After that, I usually plunge the ball into a bath of lightly salted cold water and help it set a little. The cheese is good, but I want it to be better. My goal is a softer, fresh mozzarella cheese as opposed to something harder, squeakier, or stringy. Do you have any strategies or suggestions for making better mozzarella without upgrading the quality of my curds?
+
+[11:55] Uh thanks, Matthew. Well, that's a very interesting question. Uh mozzarella is one of the, you know, it's one of those strange things in life that the simpler a product is, it often the easier it is for us to find uh major differences with kind of minor things in technique, right? So bread is a classic example, yeast, salt, water, uh, flour, and yet look at the variances in bread, right? Or coffee is an is another example.
+
+[12:22] And in general, the more complicated something is, the easier it is to cover up flaws and techniques or ingredients because there's just a mishmash of crap going on, right? So mozzarella is one of these things that's supposed to taste of the fresh milk. And so you have uh all of the factors involved before the cheese curd is made. Or you know, there's there's the quality of the milk, right? Then there is uh I was reading a bunch of studies this morning on the effect of different starter cultures uh on the uh texture and taste of mozzarella cheese and apparently they have a huge impact.
+
+[12:50] But the the key thing with mozzarella curd is the pH, the acidity level has to be right when it's made or it won't have the proper texture. Okay? So you you have to start with good curds. That said, the commercial curds are what everyone uh and and and by the way the the way it works is it is it the acidity is is necessary to get the stringiness right because it the the pH is is drastically affecting how the cheese curds are going to interact when they're melted out and and uh pulled uh to make a pasta filata style cheese dough. And the same same pH is the reason why you add wine to a fondue, Nastasha's favorite thing because she loves the Swiss uh because it kind of increase uh it basically you know alters the way that the that the casein's uh is going to interact with itself.
+
+[13:33] Anyways so um so all of that stuff is uh very vital that said once you say okay look I'm gonna I'm gonna have this commercial made curd there's a huge variance in um how the final mozzarella is going to taste based on the um based on uh your practices afterwards and so all everything is uh makes a difference including how you slice the curd because that's going to change how fast the heat from the hot water goes in the temperature of the water you use, whether there's any salt in the water, and finally the forming technique and how much you stretch it and pull it, right? So presumably um i and and just so show this, you know, if you I don't know if you live near New York, but you go to New York, you can go to any one of five or ten different mozzarella joints and you know New York, New Jersey, Connecticut major metropolitan area. You go to like five different fresh mozzarella joints, they're all getting their mozzarella curds from polio, uh, and yet their cheese styles are radically different. So some people do a lot of stretching right and pulling uh and that and think about what's happening. If you look at mozzarella under a uh microscope, scanning electron microscope, uh what you'll see is kind of these pulled layers and think of it the same way that you think of bread dough, these pulled layers in between the pulled layers you'll find uh trapped water, uh trapped whey uh and and and fat glaues.
+
+[14:51] So um if Nastasha hates that word globule she does she's making her globule face which is very similar to her vegan face. So um that stretching is going to align and create that structure squeeze out the water and make kind of thin sheets. So when you're making something like a biratta that needs to hold its outside shape they probably do a lot of a stretching to make it kind of or some people will even stretch it once, re melt it and stretch it again. Or some people prefer a softer curve with less uh softer mozzarella with less structure that has more weeping and more large open pores I tend to like the less structured more weepy kind of mozzarella what about you stuff yeah I mean that's what I prefer and so I would recommend probably less uh less kneading but what I really recommend you do is find a mozzarella joint that you like go there and watch what they do as opposed to what you do uh and see kind of what the difference is uh you know at the at the school at the French Culinary Institute they teach mozzarella making to all of the students and it's all universally horrible, right? I mean, no offense to the students, but the first time you make mozzarella, it's not going to be that good.
+
+[15:52] In fact, I've only made it a couple of times, and I stopped because my wife was like, You suck at this. We should just go, you know, to someone we like like DiPalos, who knows how to make mozzarella and buy it. And in fact, I said this before, like the po like uh like I'm not gonna get a debate over who makes the the good or best mozzarella, but uh I like the guys at DePaul's, I go to them all the time. When they uh when their cheesemaker who was hired by the current, you know, generation's father retired, they changed their cheese style to be more in line. So their cheese their mozzarella changed radically because they changed their uh their mold their forming technique from the one that their father and his cheesemaker had favored, which was a a less porous, less weepy mozzarella to uh, you know, to one that is kind of softer.
+
+[16:38] Um so it's entirely in in your control. Uh I would go observe someone with the real hands because it's a real art and practice to making a mozzarella, yeah? Yeah? No? Yeah.
+
+[16:47] All right. Let's go to our first commercial break. Calling your questions to 718497-21289 uh 784972128 cooking it's use. Hello, welcome back to Cooking Issues. Calling your questions.
+
+[18:09] We should be live now for normal people who are calling in. 27184972128. That's 7184972128. In case you just tuned in, this show is again brought to you by the Monist Pantry. Go back and listen to it.
+
+[18:19] It's the same promo as before. So uh Marvin uh Woodhouse uh called in. I gotta go get I was looking at his link that he sent me on his uh public transportation because I found turns out that I guess in the last couple of weeks I've been railing on New York's public transportation system, and I really shouldn't, because I love it. I use it all the time. I mean I'm appreciative of New York City's subway system, which is as far as I know, the only 24 hour subway system in the world.
+
+[18:46] So we don't have any like, you know, crazy night buses in our city that you have to like get scraped onto a bus with like all of the people who can barely hold themselves, you know, hold themselves upright or have already turned into a shivering mass of jelly. And uh, you know, so I'm really appreciative of our subway system. Oh, basically on that, before I go on. Uh, you know, uh, as some of you might know, uh, we recently opened a bar booker in Dax, and uh now uh I'm in the habit of quite often walking home at three and four in the morning stone sober, which is not something that I'm used to. And man, the pizza, the people on the streets of New York are are messed up looking at four in the morning.
+
+[19:24] Right? Yeah. It's but it's like uh you ever been to England back in the day, like when all the pubs were like closed at 11 and people it's like basically like at 11 o'clock, people stumbling around England. So 11 o'clock in England looks like you know two or three here. I think it's changed.
+
+[19:38] I don't know. Anyway, so uh he was uh Marvin was showing us uh his uh he moved to Wurpital Germany and it was showing us uh his public transportation, which is some crazy ass monorail called the Schwebybon. You like that name? Yeah, Shwebi Bon. Anyway, uh so uh well more on him later.
+
+[19:59] Let's go uh go back to our regular questions. Hello, Nastasha and Dave. Uh Tom Fisher writes in from Lansdown PA. I have a three-liter centrifuge arriving in about a week, and I'll need to bleach out the rabies. Any tips for making sure everything is safe before I use it.
+
+[20:13] Also, uh, what would you recommend is the first thing I spin? I think I'm making some fruit juices. How is a centrifuge with strawberries? Well, uh let's start backwards. Centerfuge strawberries are fantastic.
+
+[20:25] Uh, I recommend uh getting a hold of some Pectin X Ultra SPL. None of this stuff really centrifuges well without uh the addition of some uh enzyme to if you really want it clear. I mean you can centrifuge out and get uh a puck and a supernatant uh but it's it's not your yield is gonna be poor and it's not gonna be clear unless you uh unless you add the SPL. If you add the SPL, uh you can just literally blend strawberries in a blender, add a couple of grams of pectin X ultra SPL enzyme uh to the strawberry in the blender, hold the back of your hand against the blender until it warms up to a little bit above body temperature, let it sit for about 10 minutes. The enzyme is gonna break down a lot of the pectin and make it a lot more uh you know less viscous, so that when you spin it, uh you're gonna get a very good uh separation between you know of the of the of the solids from the liquids.
+
+[21:14] And your yield should be very high on the order of 70% or so. Uh one of the things you have to worry about when you're centrifuging is that when you blend something like strawberries, there's uh a lot of air that's whipped into it, and strangely that air uh doesn't necessarily pop when you spin it. Some of those air bubbles can actually withstand the G forces involved in centrifuging. So uh if you have access to a vacuum machine, it's a good idea to quickly at a very low temperature, obviously, because it's in a vacuum, do a quick uh de-aeration or boil out of the air in the strawberry in your vacuum machine before you centrifuge it. If not, it's not going to be too big of a problem.
+
+[21:53] Just spin it for 10 or 15 minutes, uh put it through a coffee filter or through a piece of muslin or something like that uh to catch anything that goes through. And we do strawberries all the time and and and we love it. Now, back on safety and bleaching out the rabies. There's two questions as to safety. There is uh there are well three really.
+
+[22:12] There's there's um poison that might be in it, right? You have to worry about. Then there are uh you know biohazards that might be in it, like uh uh infectious agents, right? And then although uh probably not poison, it's probably mainly gonna be biological agents that are gonna cause you problems. And uh third is um mechanical damage that could lead to unsafe operation in the centrifuge, right?
+
+[22:34] So you have to take care of all three. So uh the aluminum swinging buckets in your three liter centrifuge need to be uh first soaked in a bleach solution, right? And then uh eye pressure cook them, right? When you're pressure cooking, if you want to actually sterilize, what you need to do is make sure there's no air at all in the system because uh it can uh it can cause problems with uh sterilization. So you want to submerse the buckets in uh your pressure cooker and pressure cook them for like 20 minutes at second ring, and you should have killed anything that ails it.
+
+[23:09] You can then, if you'd like, re-bleach uh them and then let them air dry. You don't want to use any detergents really. You scrub them with you know with something, but you don't want to use any harsh detergents because they can uh affect the aluminum, the integrity of the aluminum. And you do not the one thing you always want to make sure is that you do not affect the integrity of the aluminum buckets. The other thing you wanna be careful of is you wanna inspect your buckets, your aluminum buckets for damage.
+
+[23:33] If your buckets are damaged, uh then they're probably unsafe. If you want to inspect your rotor, make sure that there's no cracks or problems with the rotor. Uh if there are, then it's unsafe. So you gotta ensure that all of that is is is okay. You wanna make sure that you balance your uh buckets properly, get a trip balance that can balance the two buckets against each other and and make sure you keep everything balanced at all times.
+
+[23:57] Make sure everything spins freely. The inside of your the entire centrifuge should be completely wiped down with a uh concentrated bleach sanitizing solution. You should then pour bleach sanitizing solution in the drain hole of your centrifuge and let it come out. Uh and then do this several times. And that's how that's the technique that I use to bleach the rabies out of these things and and to get them safe to go.
+
+[24:21] Um the strawberry technique I told you uh works with any non-acidic fruit, right? Uh even things that are mildly acidic, that's that will work with. If you need to clarify, like we do at the bar, lime juice, uh, you're gonna need to move to a different set of uh a different battery of uh clarification techniques. Uh no three-liter centrifuge that you get is going to be adequate to clarify lime juice on its own. That requires about 48,000 G's.
+
+[24:50] You could do it at 27,000, but it's n doesn't taste good. But you're not going to achieve that in a standard three-liter centrifuge. So what you're gonna need to use is a combination of the enzyme I mentioned, pectanex XPL, and wine finding agents. We use Kesel Sol, which is a sp suspended silica gel, uh suspended silicosol, rather, and uh chitosan, which is uh from shrimp sales. It's a hydrocolloid.
+
+[25:11] And our procedure very quickly is gonna be definitely boring to people who don't know who don't have this crap. But I'll give it to you anyway. Here it is, real quick. It's add two grams per liter of uh of uh pectinx ultra SPL and two grams per liter of Kesel Sol, suspended silicosol, uh to the to your lime juice, stir it, let it sit 20 minutes, add two grams of chitosan, stir, uh let's sit 20 minutes, add two more grams of Kesel Sol, stir it, and then spin it out, and you should get 100% clear lime juice. And the reason we add it so many times is you're playing a game with charges where you're adding uh uh charge to something, causing particles to flock together, then adding a different charge, causing those particles to flock together, and so on and so on.
+
+[25:52] But anyway, uh good luck with your centrifuge. I'm sure you will enjoy it, right? Are we doing another crucial break or no? No. No?
+
+[25:58] We're ripping on through. Uh man, I wonder whether we actually rip through everything. We can uh just talk about other stuff, did we? No, Marvin. Oh, yeah.
+
+[26:07] Well he didn't he was he said specifically, Marvin from Schwaby Bond, uh the Shwabi Bond, which he rides to work every day, which is the only cool thing in New York you can ride like that is the uh is the tram to uh to ro uh what is it called? Roosevelt's island, right? And uh and the reason that's cool is because you can imagine Rucker Hauer and uh and Sylvester Stallone shooting at themselves uh like they did in Cobra, which is an awesome bad movie, right? Everyone likes Rucker Howard, right? You gotta like Rucker Hauer and Sylvester Stallone together, right?
+
+[26:35] No? Yeah. She's nodding her head, not making her vegan face. She's uh doing well. But here's a I specifically was told not to read this whole uh dang uh thing, but I will read this one section.
+
+[26:46] Uh we asked why he was moving to Germany from uh Belfast, and he said, by the way, I'm moving to Germany from Belfast Islands, I have a new job in Germany. It will also be cool to experience a new food culture and for my kids to learn a new language, the beer kicks ass too. That's fair. And here's the interesting part as far as cooking issues is concerned. I'm a formulation scientist.
+
+[27:04] This means I developed the recipes and manufacturing process for new pharmaceutical projects, prodights. Please tap my knowledge for any queries on spray drying, tablet compaction, or the use of cyclodextrins, as I would be pleased to help. Uh well, that's stuff that we're very interested in, right? Yeah. I'm specifically interested in tablet compaction.
+
+[27:24] Like I I've been looking for a while for a good way to uh make uh our own uh mints and whatnot uh in in a kind of a quick fashion. Now there's people on the internet, I think I've mentioned this on this show, uh, who sell basically a little twisty thing that's almost like a pipe with a twist doodle in it, and you could t uh tighten down on that sucker and make like individual uh you know tablets. But you know, if you know of anything, Marvin, that I can get on eBay to bang out tablets that doesn't cost an arm or leg or isn't the size of a small Volkswagen beetle, uh I'd be uh I'd be certainly happy. And also, if you ever know anyone getting rid of a pilot-sized spray drying unit, I would love one. You know who has one?
+
+[28:04] Nathan Miravold, of course. Nathan Mirabold. Hmm. Mirabold. Uh okay.
+
+[28:09] Uh now one other thing, a question it's not on uh, and by the way, we we have to we're ending this show. The reason we I already mentioned the reason why we're gonna so we don't have to mention it again. But we'll mention this show on that show. We'll mention this show on that show? You'll mention I will.
+
+[28:24] Now I tell you what, let's go to one quick commercial break, because we have another like ten minutes before we have to go. So let's go to commercial break, Jack. Maybe we have maybe we have some Jim Croce. I don't know. Do you think you got some Jim Croce?
+
+[28:33] Anyway, you still have uh one last chance to call your questions to 7184972128. That's 7184972128 cooking issues. Little Southside of Chicago is the better's auto town. And if you go down there, you better just be well name or Leroy Brown. Now, Leroy, more in trouble.
+
+[29:05] You see, he's stand about six foot four. All of downtown leaders call the treetop over all the manfires call him so he's bear. Better than old game car. We know they're on the junk yard. Now Leroy, he or gambler, and he like his bouncing cards.
+
+[29:34] He did like his fancy clothes. Something else he liked to do is to uh shine his diamond ring under everybody's nose. You know, do you were aware of that fact? You know, and you know, for those of you that don't know this song, Leroy Brown at the end of the song. Well, the reason he he looks like a jigsaw puzzle with a couple of pieces gone is actually what happens to him at the end of the song.
+
+[29:51] And the reason is he uh Leroy Brown learned a lesson about messing with the wife of a jealous man. It just goes to show you shouldn't mess with anyone's uh, you know, spouse anyway. That's right. Yeah, right? Wow, Jack.
+
+[30:02] Yes. Quick. Yeah. Nice. Nice.
+
+[29:59] All right. So this is actually not uh a writing question, but uh someone from Milk Bar, you know, one of our sister companies, right, uh came and said that at Milk Bar, uh, you know, which is Tozy's Christina Toze's company, which is like infinite infinitely expanding. There's like they they have what, they have one in Brooklyn and like three in Manhattan, right? Right? Anyway, uh said that they had been getting some uh locally produced milk that had not been uh homogenized, right?
+
+[30:37] And the issue they were having with it was uh when they were making cappuccinos, they said the milk is delicious, right? But the non-homogenized milk wasn't foaming properly when they're making cappuccinos. And what did I think? And I said, quite honestly, I don't know. I had no idea.
+
+[30:53] Uh so I looked it up, and in fact it's true that homogenizing increases the ability of cappuccinos to foam. Now, she she had also said to me something strange. She said we tried to heat it, right? Because someone said that if you heat the milk, it's gonna increase its ability to foam. And that went exactly counter to everything that I had learned uh about forming uh milk foams when you're steaming them, which is that you can't really steam milk twice because you've denatured the proteins, right?
+
+[31:23] So then I went to try and research this thing, and it turns out the entire field is completely confused, and it was hard for me to get a straight answer. I was expecting to be able to go to the scientific literature and get a straight answer within like a half hour. But like 45 minutes later reading, I still didn't feel like I had a straight answer. So it's an interesting problem. Here's so UC Davis uh on their milk site, which UC Davis, I usually, you know, I love UC Davis for anything kind of food science related.
+
+[31:49] Uh although dairy, you go to Guelph, you know, the UGW for their website. But basically they say that uh heating uh milk, uh pasteurizing milk, uh homogene everyone says homogenizing makes milk foam better, but they don't really propose a mechanism for why or how. But everyone in the world says that homogenizing milk makes it foam better. So they should go ahead and get a homogenized milk, or we you know what, we can loan them our um our homogenizers, see whether that helps. I mean, it doesn't produce as good a homogenization as ultra, you know, high pressure homogenization, but they could try it.
+
+[32:20] Anyway, I hadn't thought about that loaning them that sucker. Anyways. I was? Yeah, you were like, should we really? Mm-hmm.
+
+[32:27] Huh. For what? It's like you had a premonition. Oh no, that's no, you're talking about my rotor stator homogenizer. I'm talking about the ultrasound one that totally dents your uh hearing and blah do you do use that still bother you, that ultrasonic homogenizer?
+
+[32:39] Remember, it's like it's that like it's like uh everyone like falls on the ground writhing in pain except for me because of the years of uh blasting my ears out with headphones. Anyways, so um homogenization, right? But heating is an interesting question. So when you heat uh milk, like you tend not to denature the uh casein proteins with normal pasteurization, but you do uh denature the whey proteins. Oh, uh I hear I have a call, so I'll get back to this, uh finish up with it.
+
+[33:04] Caller, you're on the air. Right. Uh you know, I heard you last week and you and you were talking about uh you had a deep fryer in your kitchen. And I guess I'd uh I'd never thought about putting a uh a commercial deep fryer in a residential kitchen because uh you know, I I've just been using a Dutch oven because from my understanding, all the uh the uh home use deep fryers suck. Uh so I was wondering if you can you can talk a little bit about the the logistics of using uh because I I thought some of those ran on like uh two twenty if you had to run two twenty in your kitchen or you know all right do you have gas uh I don't you don't have gas come on now uh you don't have gas okay do you live uh in do you do you live in an apartment or in a house?
+
+[33:54] I I live in a house and I have actually wired two twenty before um and there there's two twenty going to the stove but I I don't think it's you know right you should be able then to get an electric fryer. Um certain electric fryers are better than other electric fryers. I mean the here's the key the key to uh why uh I forget what I was saying about it but the key to a commercial fryer why it's so much better there's there's it's a number of things. It's not just the power although the power is huge. One they have a much larger volume of oil in them so you have a a very um you have a good surface to volume ratio, right?
+
+[34:35] So you're not you know it's it's good that way. But the key and the reason why even small commercial tabletop fryers suck is because they don't have a cold zone in them. So if you look at a uh a real a good fryer what you'll notice is the heating element isn't on the bottom of the of the kettle right it's nowhere near it. And in a commercial tube fryer uh you know like a a gas tube fryer the tube is there, you're really only frying in the upper level of the oil, and below it's a big area of unheated stuff. And that area is crucial to the uh to the functioning of the fryer.
+
+[35:13] Because when you're working with a Dutch oven, right, and a Dutch oven, by the way, assuming you have like good power in your stove, is going to be better than a crappy little fryer, which they're just underpowered. You know what I mean? Like there's just no way about around it. They're underpowered, and so the recovery time is very low. And when the recovery time is very low, it takes a uh they typically over ramp, they overheat the oil, and then they go back down low, and so your oil degrades extremely quickly and your products uh you know absorb too much oil and it's never very good.
+
+[35:42] So you're right in assuming that a larger quantity of oil in a Dutch oven over a high powered uh range is going to be better than most home fryers. That's 100% true. Now, in a commercial fryer though, with where you have a cold zone underneath the heating, uh when a when uh stuff comes off of your food, which it inevitably will, right, it sinks to the bottom into a relatively cold zone. So it doesn't scorch, right? And it doesn't impart a nasty burnt flavor to your oil.
+
+[36:10] When you're heating in a home fryer or in a Dutch oven, you'll notice the bottom of your oil has a bunch of brown and black particles, and that over a course of a couple of hours of frying, you'll start tasting burnt and and rancid nasty flavors in your oil, right? Yeah. Yeah. That never happens in a commercial fryer. So a commercial fryer, first of all, never overheats the oil because the heating element typically has a very large surface area, especially in a gas fryer, but also in a well constructed electric fryer.
+
+[36:38] Uh and it has a core a huge amount of power, so it can heat up uh very quickly, but without locally overheating, like you do if you burn the bottom of the pan. And and and two, it has this cold zone. Uh so all in all, you can get so yes, you're using my my fryer holds like six gallons uh of oil, but five and a half uh six gallons of oil, but I can use that five and a half, six gallons of oil for like five uh big fry nights in which I'm frying everything, and every piece of food that comes out of it tastes delicious and isn't oily. Do you know what I mean? And the way I always test I keep my fryer covered when not in use, you know, you strain out the oil, right, to get rid of the particles because they can increase rancidity.
+
+[37:22] And then you put the oil uh back in, you cover it so that you're not getting a lot of oxidation. Uh you know, mine also is covered with a wooden block so it's not getting any light in or anything like that, and it stays great. And you I always uh the day before I know I'm gonna have another fry night, I'll uh put a piece of bread into it. And bread's very good because it soaks up a lot of oil, but is it self-neutral, and you'll be able to taste any sort of rancidity or any sort of uh fat breakdown, whether the oil is going bad on that piece of bread and know whether you need to uh change it out. Uh if you are frying uh you want to fry actually quite a bit each time with something like French fries or potato chips so that absorb a lot of oil, and the reason is is then you can just keep replenishing the uh fat in the fryer, and if you replenish the oil quickly enough, you don't need to throw away the oil.
+
+[38:09] That's a that's the that's how continuous frying works. When they're making potato chips industrially, potato chips are like 50% oil. Uh you know, so they they're soaking up enough oil that the oil never goes bad. You know what I mean? Yeah.
+
+[38:21] Yeah. The other thing is get good ventilation in your house. Do you have the ability to put a decent hood in over your fryer? Hand me that hand. Uh yeah, I can.
+
+[38:29] Yeah. Here's what I did. Uh my current situation, I have an actual residential, uh, an actual residential hour uh sorry, uh commercial hood. Back in the day before I uh had that, I went to Home Depot, I bought two of the crappy little hoods and I bolted them together, like uh I bolted back to back and put them directly over the fryer, and I just sunk it down to very close to the level of the fryer so that uh even though the extraction is crappy, there was nowhere for it to go, and so I was able to get all of the stuff out. And that worked great, except for I eventually melted out a part of the uh of the hood just because it was so close to the fryer.
+
+[39:07] But you can make up for a good hood by putting two crappy hoods together and bolting it low down to the fryer. The disadvantage there is you have a weird ass hood in your space. The other disadvantage is that uh they're loud, those small home hoods are loud. Another thing you can do is put it outside on your porch, like a covered porch, and then just scoot it over away from the porch to fry, but then you're can only do it in fair weather, you know what I mean? Yeah.
+
+[39:32] Is that is this helpful at all? Yeah, yeah, very much. Thank you. All right. Cool.
+
+[39:37] Thanks, thanks for uh thanks for calling in. And uh Nastash is now telling me that I'm now late because I gotta go to the splendid table uh interview. But I'll finish up real quick with the milk. So uh uh it turns out I'm gonna have to do more research because uh it is true that all of the milk that we use. Mark Prince, who wrote like kind of the uh on Coffee Geek wrote the primer that everyone uses for uh doing um uh you know latte art style uh foaming, microfoam and milk.
+
+[40:06] Basically, uh his point has always been that when you heat milk, you denature whey proteins, and when they're denatured, they don't foam as well. Although UC Davis says that when you denature some of the whey proteins, it actually foams better. Huh. So who's right? I don't know.
+
+[40:19] And the other thing that's true, think about it, uh, Mark Principhiles, of which I'm one, right? Uh, when you uh use milk, you are always using, almost always, unless you aren't, using pasteurized milk. And the crap foams just fine. So I'm gonna have to do more research. Please, anyone call in with some questions or comments regarding that.
+
+[40:37] And hopefully I hear more about tablet compaction for next week's show. Thank you, and come back next week for cooking a shows. Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store.
+
+[41:06] You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up to date news and information. You got it all twisted. And the guests can't get it straight.
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+[0:03] Broadcasting live from Robertas in Bushwick, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network dot coming. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live on the Heritage Radio Network in the back more of uh Roberta's Pizzeria and Book brought to you uh today again, I assume by the Modernist Pantry. Is that correct?
+
+[0:36] That is correct. Uh we'll be reading their printers broke, so I'll be reading it, I guess. Oh yeah? Nice. You're gonna read it with with feeling with gusto.
+
+[0:43] I'll do my best. Yeah? But you do have a caller, I'll find one. All right. So uh anyone else who's waiting, call in two seven one eight four nine seven two one two eight.
+
+[0:50] That's seven one eight four nine seven two one two eight caller, you're on the air. Hi. Hello. Howdy. Sorry, um uh I'm I'm Tammy, I'm calling from Sydney, Australia.
+
+[1:01] Wow. I'm a bit safe right now. Cool. Hello. Um, I did have a couple of questions.
+
+[1:06] One about meat glue. Um, one about infusing truffle flavor, and one about MacGyvering Assouvede. Very good. You're not affiliated with the Today Tonight show, are you? No, no, unfortunately.
+
+[1:21] Um they're the ones in Australia. They're the ones in Australia who had the anti-meat glue thing. You remember that? Did you see that? Um, sorry?
+
+[1:28] Did you see in Australia Today Tonight Show is there they were the the people that had the anti-meat glue telecast. Did you see that back when it aired about a year ago? Weirdly enough, I saw it on your blog rather than on TV. Strange. Um, but what I was watching though was your um science and cooking lecture with Harvard.
+
+[1:47] Um very enjoyable. I now clarify all my liquid using A Gago. Um but uh what I did notice that you said when you were talking about your mokume ghana um fish was that there was a small amount of ammonia produced when you were using meat glue. Correct. And I was wondering about, you know, you said on the primer in your blog that um this dissipates before you eat it.
+
+[2:14] Now, does it dissipate like through cooking? Is it, you know, if you're dealing with raw foods, especially fish, is it really good to, you know, backpack it, take out the backpack and then wait it, or like is there any particular thing going on, or how does that work? That's an excellent question. So for those of you that don't know what we're talking about, meat glue is an enzyme that we use to bond different proteins together. Uh when it's doing that bonding, uh, a small amount of ammonia is produced in the reaction.
+
+[2:45] Uh and in fact, you can use the reaction as a gauge for how strong your meat glue is by dipping something like raw chicken into the meat glue and smelling it and making sure that you have that aroma, the reaction is taking place. Uh Mokumegane is uh a Japanese uh metalworking technique where uh different layers are laminated together and then sanded flat and have a wood grain kind of appearance. So a number of years ago I did a recipe with fish, different colored fish, they're layered together uh and then uh cut on a slicer so you get a wood grain effect with the fish where the very thin layers are glued together. Uh and that uh that recipe I put some salt and sugar so it's cured, but it's not cooked. And so when I originally did that recipe, I did notice uh the the aroma kind of of the meat glue because it was a very thick block.
+
+[3:31] I had overused the meat glue, and uh and so it was noticeable. And that thing had been in a vacpack all the way up until the time it was sliced. So to remedy that I used much less meat glue, uh this, you know, the subsequent times that I I made that recipe. And I also vaced it to compress it, but then cut it out of the vac pack and let it uh let it sit and all of the uh ammonia dissipate. Ammonia very volatile, right?
+
+[3:57] So it's going to dissipate. Uh you know, in fact there's uh baking powders that are based on ammonia that are used uh specifically for cookies. Uh and yeah and they they bake out over time. But if you put them in something that's super thick, right, or you don't cook it enough they taste horrible because the ammonia is still there. So ammonia is volatile we'll leave especially in a cooked item it's not a problem uh ever really but in the in the fish um I noticed you know that it was a problem.
+
+[4:22] Additionally I I've run tests where if you add a boatload of meat glue to something that's cooked in a bag that's never taken out of the bag that some people can detect something even on a on a long cooked uh braise. But it takes a boatload of uh of meat glue to do that. Cool. Um and then thank you very much. Um and the second question was I heard that truffles are really good in dessert and I really wanted to use the flavor of truffles in chocolate truffles like a joke.
+
+[4:56] Um so I was wondering what the best way maybe to infuse because I know truffles infuse really well into butter but then to make the ganache it's just chocolate and cream, right? So I'm not quite sure what the best way to go around that. You can use butter in a in a ganache instead. I mean I've done plenty of butter ganaches. You just had to find a butter-based uh or you you could infuse directly into the cream if you want to use cream, but I do pl plenty of uh butter-based work.
+
+[5:23] I mean, it uh the textures are gonna uh change so much, but I mean I've I've done plenty of butter, butter, and chocolate um ganaches you can infuse into, or you could fuse directly into the cream. A good way to infuse something like a truffle where it's expensive and you don't want to lose a lot of aroma is to infuse it in a vacuum bag. So that you yeah, right? Just put it in a vacuum bag, suck it, and then basically everything stays contained in there, and you're not gonna be volatilizing a lot of the uh aroma of the truffle. Cool.
+
+[5:53] I didn't think about that. Yeah. If you have access to a vacuum machine. If not, you could use if you if you have access to a vacuum machine. If you don't, you could uh, you know, use a ziploc or something like that.
+
+[6:03] Okay. Um and my third question was about McGubburing a sous-vide machine. So there were discussions I had one really late, really one night, um, with my friends about how expensive so vede machines are and so on and so forth. Um and somebody suggested using uh modifying a deep fryer with a dowel setting and a really high quality tropical fish tank water pump. Right.
+
+[6:31] Uh would you recommend or dish or you know, not recommended, or you know, how how well do you think that would work? Um well fortunately there are tons of people out there that are selling um kits right now for doing basically what you really need is a temperature control. I mean, the the the pump, yes, you can use an aquarium pump. There's any one of a number of pumps you can get in the sub uh $20 range that will um circulate, right? The problem with a deep fryer, a couple problems with a deep fryer.
+
+[7:02] They well it depends. Like I don't know what kind of deep fryers you're you're looking at, but most of the deep fryers that they sell here don't have exposed elements. And if they don't have an exposed element, you're not gonna get very good heat transfer, so you're gonna get a lot uh it's gonna be hard to get uh you know nice steady um steady temperature. Do you know what I mean? You might get some porpoising or it's gonna take a long time to get up and be accurate.
+
+[7:23] Uh if you have something with an exposed element, great, it'll work fine. The problem I have with uh deep fryers or any contained vessel like that is you're really limited in the size of um size of of you know what you can cook. So you know what what you basically need is uh is uh a PID temperature controller. These can now be had for on the order of thirty dollars US, right? Um you're gonna need some sort of uh uh solid state or regular relay.
+
+[7:51] Again, you these now can be got got for like seven bucks. A um uh like a type K thermocouple for temperature measurement, uh waterproof one, that's another seven. So now you're at like uh fourteen, thirty thirty-five, uh a pump for um you know another twenty, now you're at fifty-five, and then um you're gonna need uh the heating element. Now a heating element you could really use anything. There's lots of really cheap immersion heating elements out there.
+
+[8:19] The trick is just not to electrocute yourself. Um I did a project once just for giggles where I, you know, walked up a bunch of stuff that I gotten on eBay and I bought a bunch of uh uh immersion coffee heaters, the really cheap, like you know, three dollar ones you get at uh you know at the local dollar store. And uh it worked. You know, you you want to try to get at least up to about a thousand watts of heating, which is what the you know standard commercial ones do. But um but you know, I stuck my hand into the uh into the water and 'cause there's a lot of leakage current out of those things because they weren't very well constructed.
+
+[8:54] Do you know what I mean? I mean, no one's expecting you to stick yeah, right. No one's expecting you to stick your hand into your cup of coffee. And so they don't care so much that there's a little bit of leakage coming out of the heater, right? But you care very deeply whether you get electrocuted when you're putting your hand into uh a water bath to pull out a uh a piece of food.
+
+[9:12] So that's that's something to look at. But you know, there are tons of I don't know in Australia, but I know here in the US we have a bunch of suppliers, and there's a uh you know, I know that there's suppliers in Australia because I've been thwarted by trying to buy something and found out it was an Australian website. So I know that there's people out there that um that are selling this kind of stuff. So you should be able to get everything all told working for under a hundred dollars. Now, um the other problem then is like trying to get a nice enclosure, and that's where a lot of the DIY projects that are out there are really kind of cool because they find like you know, you know, like with DIY stuff, there was uh there was a rage, I guess it's still a rage, to put everything into an Altoids tin, right?
+
+[9:53] Like projects that could fit in an Altoids tin. So the miracle Yeah, right? So the miracle is finding the cool box to put everything into, and I forget what it was. There's some acrylic box out there that is readily available that works really well with a bunch of off the shelf parts to make a circulator, but I can't remember what that box was. Um but you know, thank God for the internet.
+
+[10:16] Thank you so much, by the way. Hey, yes, I shall go and uh try that. And if uh I got electrocuted, um you'll know about it. All right, super. Thanks for calling in all the way from Australia.
+
+[10:27] So you have three calls. Yeah. Yeah. All right. Thanks very much.
+
+[10:31] Oh, wait, wait, we have another caller? Three who have been waiting. All right, caller. You are on the air. Hey Dave, how are you doing?
+
+[10:37] How are you doing? Pretty pretty pretty good. I'm actually now that you got a call from Australia, I'm calling from Moscow, believe it or not. Wow, this is awesome. This is great.
+
+[10:44] Moscow, welcome. And uh hey, great. Uh actually native New Yorker living in Moscow. And I have a question for you. Um I'm redoing my kitchen, and it's uh basically a a simple equipment question.
+
+[10:55] What do you get? What can I what can I what should I get in terms of uh of a gas burner so I can you know have some um you know enough BTUs to cook in a walk, for example. Or, you know, and of course the last question, and and I'm sure it's be your favorite is the espresso. I need an espresso machine, and what should I get? What's the water like in Moscow?
+
+[11:13] Um it's pretty bad. I use I'm gonna probably be using bottled water. Okay. So I mean uh one of the great joys of having a decent water supply is that you can get a plumbed espresso machine, which is I love instead of having to like constantly dump water in the back. I'm assuming you could probably filter or you know, the the problem then with also with with certain filtering techniques like reverse osmosis on espresso machines, you really don't want RO water for your espresso because it's too pure.
+
+[11:39] You know, it doesn't have enough minerality in it. So if you're working from bottled, you can retrofit a commercial machine to use uh bottled. I don't really know what's available in uh Russia in terms of uh equipment. But I'm uh what what level of espresso machine are you looking at? Yeah, I'm I'm willing to I'm willing to pay for a little bit here, but I I can definitely not do don't have the space to do like a whole pump setup.
+
+[12:01] Right. I mean, um there are lots of uh I mean so the the prosumer units Hello, you still there? Yeah, the prosumer units that are out there. Um I haven't had a lot of experience with them. I have experience with the smallest commercial uh units, which are like the single group guys, and they're fairly compact.
+
+[12:21] I don't know if you have the the space for them, but uh I mean they're good. I only have uh I only have mine's from the you know the 80s or 90s, 90s I guess because I know I don't have the money for a new one. Uh there having had a dual group espresso machine, the single groups aren't as temperature stable. I don't have a lot of experience with the newer uh like for instance one Ken Ken Ingber, our uh listener who's trying to get me to get the Brevo one I ha I don't have experience with that guy yet. I don't know how how good it is.
+
+[12:50] But you you know the things you're gonna be looking for are temperature stability. I mean you might want to go if you're if you're into like tricking stuff out I don't know whether it's still considered pulling a good shot but there are a lot of people have modified Sylvia's in a very small package ranchillios. I'm sure it's been superseded. But uh the espresso geek community uh they've m you know done a lot of modifications on on home machines to get them to pull a really good shot. It's just a little more fidgety than having a pro machine.
+
+[13:14] You know what I mean? Yeah no I mean I I I would do one of those single shot pro machines, you know like a restaurant uh style I might go for that but then I would need a pump, wouldn't I? Well a lot of the they have a lot smaller pumps. The the company that makes most of the pumps for the machines uh you know here is a company called Procon. And the reason the pumps are so big is because uh it's the same size pump uh it can handle literally gallons per minute even though you only need to put out like 60 milliliters over the course of 25 seconds or less really 30 mil you know what I mean?
+
+[13:45] So um so they they throw away a lot of their output and that's one of the ways that they regulate pressure. Procon knows that the pumps are oversized and so they built a much smaller uh pump unit. I don't know whether any of those have made it into the newer uh machines yet because the the big pumps are literally just way overkill in terms of size. They's just unneeded. Yeah the the other style of pump that's used is uh is a a vibrating uh pump.
+
+[14:10] Most of those are made by a company in Europe called Ulka. And uh those basically it's a little solenoid, crack, chak, chak, check, check, chuck, check, and you can hear them, the vibrating pumps, and they just go back and forth. The problem with those is that it's it's thought that their pressure isn't as even as the larger rotary procon pumps, and so some people have a gripe about whether or not it's possible to get the same shot quality with those. I don't have a lot of experience with them. I don't know that the argument that people make that they can't pull as good a shot is good or not, but those pumps are radically smaller.
+
+[14:39] And if if you have a problem with the shot of that, what you can do if they don't already do it, is put something called an accumulator on the back side of the pump, which is basically just a chamber of air. You could probably modify a soda bottle or something to do it, and uh and it'll just even out any sort of vibration by by having like an uh an air, you know, an air cushion there. Uh, right, it makes sense. Yeah. Um so you could go, you could go that way.
+
+[15:01] As far as do you have a Chinatown in Moscow? I've never been to Moscow. No, no, they do not have a Chinatown in Moscow. That's that's one of the things. I mean, I could probably get, you know, if I if I can get something installed, that would be good.
+
+[15:11] I mean, I I do go home quite a bit, so I can always pop down to Chinatown in the city. Yeah, I mean, because it's very simple and very cheap here to get a walk burner. You know what I mean? Like uh a ring, uh basically just a ring of fire that you hook up to uh a gas supply, and then all you'd need is uh an adapter to go to whatever the um common gas plumbing is that you have uh in Russia uh and you'd you'd be good to go. But those like are so cheap.
+
+[15:38] Now you could, I mean, I've never done it. I've never set up a uh a straight up walk burner, but I see them all the time on the streets here in Chinatown. They're just so cheap compared to trying to build that thing yourself. Because you'd have to bend the you bend the black pipe into a circle, drill all the holes, tap them, put all the nozzles in, and then get your gas, uh, you know, your gas supply screwed in. It seems like a big hassle, especially if you're gonna be home anytime soon, probably easier to get it that way.
+
+[16:03] And an adapter can't be that hard to to come by. When you're in the States, if you know what kind of piping they have in Russia, I don't. You could get you could get something McMaster car here probably sells an adapter, a metric pipe to uh to uh you know, a standard uh US pipe ta uh taper probably not that hard to to get stateside and then bring it back again. That'd be the way to go, I think. I mean i I mean if I if I was gonna go for something slightly more commercial like you know they had these you know the five the five burner you know gas uh gas tops right now where you can have the walk thing in the middle.
+
+[16:34] Is there anybody to maybe just buy one of those and try to jack up the BTUs or is it just you know is that just for show? Um well I I haven't I I have to play with one. I mean the the thing about a walk is it uses a preposterously high uh you know um uh number of BTUs per hour it just dumps energy into the walk and that that's how it works. So a lot of the limitations in a particular burner uh have to do with how much gas is actually being supplied to it like how much gas can you supply to it and then can you combust it efficiently so you probably have to um I mean you you might be able to mess around with it like uh drill the orifice out bigger to get a bigger gas supply but then you'd need to figure out a way to get enough air to it and make sure that it's combusting uh efficiently otherwise you're just throwing gas away. You need actual more heat in there.
+
+[17:21] So if you were going you know you know what I'm saying? So you um I mean anything's possible to do I mean I'd have you you use regular natural gas there in Russia, right? Yeah, yeah. It's it's it's pretty it's pretty basic. Yeah.
+
+[17:33] I mean, um you know you can always up the up the b burner side. I mean the good news is I guess you don't need it to throttle down very low because you don't care about low heat outputs with a walk, so you can just have it the thing scream. Uh yeah, I mean if you increase the um the I mean if you increase the orifice, but you just gotta make sure that you have enough ability to to combust it. If you put too much gas through the small uh through uh smaller burners, you know you'll just see the flame jumping out, but you'll see you'll have a big unburned area before it goes out, and you're just basically pumping gas into the air. Do you know what I mean?
+
+[18:06] Right. No, that won't be good for the kids. No, but what you can do is uh if you if you can see if you can look up the size of a regular walk burner, you can get one of these things so it's all nice and finished. Rip out the old burner and throw a new one in. Do you know what I'm saying?
+
+[18:20] That has the real kind of you know, the fortitude that we you need. And this kind of stuff I've done all the time. Or I've added a couple of extra twenty thousand BTU, like I added a couple extra twenty thousand BTU burners in my salamander underneath so that I could have over and under fired uh salamander one time for a project I was working on. So you can always add more burners with extra knobs on it, and those things will combust great. You know what I'm saying?
+
+[18:42] So like if you have a space that you could drill in and add more heat, as long as you can get it kind of in a basic ring shape, you'd probably be good to go. Yeah, that seems that seems the way to go. Then it won't, you know, it won't be sitting out on the side or something like that taking up space. Bingo. So what uh uh in in terms of other equipment, if you were had you had your go-to equipment and you were gonna you know get something new, I'm happy to go esoteric, but you know, what would you do?
+
+[19:05] Oh, I mean, I mean you need a uh vacuum machine, circulator. I'd love to have uh if you're if you have a like a like infinite amount of gas supply, I mean I've always wanted to have a tandoor in my house, be awesome. You know what I mean? No, no, I I got that at the country house. I was thinking I was I was gonna put it in the ground there.
+
+[19:21] Yeah. Out of the old dacha. That's a that's a great thing for out there, putting it in the ground. Yeah, I mean, uh things uh I mean uh uh I have a Paco Jet variant. I mean I wish I had a real Paco Jet.
+
+[19:32] Uh you know, vacuum machine obviously is awesome. Circulator. You need it. Circulation type of the thing to go for if I was gonna go. Yeah, really good blender.
+
+[19:39] Like a Vitaprep, you know, next time you're in the States, bring one back. Do you know what I mean? Yeah, uh yeah, and and here uh here's a good question. Um, you know, in terms of buying because it's buying equipment is these things are just outrageously expensive here. If I was to buy things, you know, in the city, is there a place to go that you know that that does you know that does two twenty?
+
+[19:56] I need two twenty. Uh I don't, you know, and also poly science will direct drop ship you to the states at 220 unit, and then you could bring it in as a carry uh back, you know, uh without having to worry about it. But I don't know of anyone that does direct direct to the customer sell of 220. I mean, you could deal with the JB Prince or something like that, and they could probably special order it from you, but PolyScience would uh on a circulator would probably do that and Vitaprep. I mean, the thing that's killing you is the taxes and the importing.
+
+[20:31] You know what I mean? It's not the item itself. The Vitaprep knows how to make a 220 Vitapep. You know what I mean? Uh because I spoke to them about it.
+
+[20:38] And um, you know, same with poly science. I mean, that their stuff is you know, it's pretty simple uh for them. It doesn't cost them more to make a two twenty unit. Yeah, but by it's by its stateside, it shouldn't be that much of a price penalty here, maybe only like ten percent instead of two hundred or a hundred percent. Hey Dave, we got a few more callers on the line.
+
+[21:01] Oh, all right. That's cool. All right, David, thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Can't wait to try the bar.
+
+[21:06] Alright, thanks so much. Right, bye. Hey, caller, you're on the air. Hello? Hello.
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+[21:13] All right, yeah, babe. I have finally acquired a circulator after putting that off for half a forever. And I'm getting ready to drop a leg of lamb in it, or at least Hello? Oops. Hello?
+
+[21:27] Phone is doing very weird things. That's alright. I still got you. Okay. So first and simplest question.
+
+[21:34] If I'm doing a cashmere type leg of lamb in the circulator, can I put yogurt on it before it goes in the bag? Or is the does that go wrong in some impressive way? All right. So you can um I have done kind of buttermilk. I haven't done yogurt in the bag.
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+[21:50] I've done buttermilk. I mean, you're gonna get some um it's already curdled, so you know, how's it gonna curdle some more, right? I mean, but you might it might break, the sauce might break. Uh, but you know, the the main thing that you're gonna want to so when you're adding yogurt to something, and I have much more experience not with uh lamb but with chicken, like if you're gonna do like a uh chicken tikka, for instance. Um you know the the yogurt is but the acidity is basically there to uh tenderize.
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+[22:18] And so you're looking at kind of uh a tenderizing effect that they have. And I I some people love the texture of um and let's go back to buttermilk because I have the most experience with it. Buttermilk uh poaching in a bag. The problem with it is, especially on a very, very long cooking time, is that uh the meat can tend to uh mushiness, especially because you're not gonna overcook it when you're using a water bath. Does this make sense?
+
+[22:46] Yes. Yeah. So you're gonna want to guard against uh mushiness in the meat on long cook times with with uh with acids in the bag. That said, you can have really, really spectacular, very soft uh meat results that some people really really like. It's just it's a question of whether for you personally it tends to get to the mushy side.
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+[23:09] All right, and and the uh you have do you have any guidelines on like at what point it's likely to really start going soft? Um 24 hours, 48 hours. Yeah, 24 look on a leg of lamb, uh okay. So I mean the the inherent problem with a leg of lamb is that the leg has so many different muscles that all want to be treated differently. This is why leg of lamb is very difficult um piece of meat to have it all come together um at the same time.
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+[23:36] If you cook uh a leg of lamb for uh 24 hours, there will be some muscles in the leg of lamb that are delicious, the ones that have more collagen in them, right? And then uh and more connective tissue in general. Uh and then there are other muscles, ones that in the leg of lamb that are good with a very quick grill, let's say, those ones are going to taste uh fibry if they're cooked for 24 hours. That said, sauce can make up uh for a lot. You know what I mean?
+
+[24:07] And so it it's it's a question of of what you're gonna try and and shoot for. I mean, look look, in the end, your result is probably gonna be better than uh what most people can attain anyway. But what you should start doing when you get the circulating you start playing with it like you're doing is really focusing on kind of the um minutia of what the textual differences are when you cook a piece of uh meat that long. If you have the time, which you know, I don't know whether anyone does. I mean not now, but ever later, get like a the same piece of meat, put it in five bags, and then cook it for cook eat you know, cook each one, drop one in that you know, put one in, then you know, eight hours later put another in.
+
+[24:46] And so you can get a feeling for what a couple of hours here or there can do when you're cooking a piece of meat over over a long period of time. And it's really worth the experiment to do it. Do you know what I mean? It is. Yeah.
+
+[25:00] On a related question, um very closely related, some portion of the chicken that I get in the Costco multi packs. Right. Turns out to be absolute rubber. A particular particular piece of the chicken? Yes.
+
+[25:17] I mean like you know I don't know if you're a cocktail shopper or not, but you know they they sell six still um six vacu pouches of of raw chicken breasts and out of a each vacuum pouch has two breasts so you're buying twelve breasts in one you know in in one package. Right. And like on some random basis some number of those are like seven times tougher than others. That's bizarre. And uh presumably they're all being cooked in a similar fashion and you you repeated this enough such that it's not just uh like you know one got cooked uh improperly or something like that.
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+[26:00] You I I've had this problem at least five or ten times. That's very odd. Is it substantially different size the one that's tougher? Uh they may be bigger. I mean it's it's one of those um it's it it's tricky to tell because I usually split them widthwise so um like when I'm grilling them hot that I can get the inside and the outside done at the same time.
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+[26:23] Let me ask you this does it taste better? Well, the texture is so funky you almost don't get to the taste if that makes any sense. Yeah. And you bite it and it's just wrong. Really yeah, because you know, older birds are radically, radically tougher, but I doubt they would sift some older birds in with the regular younger because it doesn't make economic sense for them to do so.
+
+[26:43] But older birds typically will taste much more like chicken. You know, like I went, um, you know, if you go abroad to a place that slaughters their chickens much older, they're all much tougher, and so they can be hard for us to eat because we're used to a tender chicken, and yet the flavor of chicken in them is is greater. You know what I'm saying? Mm-hmm. And and and that's why a lot of old French recipes work lousy with American chickens.
+
+[27:03] Right, exactly. And and you know, why our soups are so bland, you know what I mean, compared to like because you get a real stewing hen, you know, then you get a lot of flavor out of one of those things, but you know, they're kind of tough as nails to chew on. Uh, but I wonder whether it could be an age thing. Um I mean, it's possible that it's uh I mean, ca Costco, I'm sure Costco is like, you know, getting regular factory farm uh chickens and that they're not gonna be there's not a lot of variance, you know. This is the basic I mean it's foster farmed chicken.
+
+[27:31] Right, right. And you know, there's probably not a lot of variance in in age or or and I wonder whether it could be uh like a pH thing, like a slaughter pH thing. I haven't done enough uh research on tenderness in chicken versus uh slaughter stress, for instance, um to to know uh kind of what happens. I mean, there's a lot of research obviously on slaughter stress and uh excessively soft, drippy meat for pork, right? But um but uh I don't really know of anything on chicken.
+
+[28:00] That's interesting. I'm gonna hopefully maybe someone's listening that has had this experience and has done some research. Uh I would be very curious if anybody has an opinion, because I mean it's it's it it's you know, if you put you think you need six breasts for however many people you're feeding, and then four of them come out just two of them come out really funky, it really just sort of scrambles your plan. Weird. Yeah, hopefully someone will uh call or write in with uh an explanation because I'm curious.
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+[28:25] We don't have a Costco here in New York, so I don't I can't go test it myself. That's that's actually terrible because other than this little problem, they're they're really nice. Um and then uh one more question back to the lamb. Um I got a little package of TPA of uh TPA from um of meat glue from uh your friends at uh uh your sponsors uh that I haven't even opened yet. Right.
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+[28:53] When I do this leg of lamb, can I TPA it back into its um shape after I sear it? So could I see open it up, sear it, and then bow it up with TPA? Sear it sear the inside with meat glue? Yeah. Uh with transcutaminase.
+
+[29:10] Uh sear the inside. It's interesting. You you can, you're not gonna get as strong of a bond, right? And the meat isn't going to, unless you put like a lot of force on it with plastic wrap or a vacuum machine, it's gonna be hard to get it to conform properly. Does that make sense?
+
+[29:27] But it does. It can be done. Uh you know, cooked meat will glue, just not as strongly. All right. So I can I can I can roll it back up and actually uh get it to at least sort of stay.
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+[29:39] Yeah, and remember to uh uh tightly seal the meat glue and put it back in the freezer to store it after it's open. Okay, and so I did not notice what it didn't freeze it, though. That's very helpful. All right. All right, thank you very much.
+
+[29:53] Uh, thank you very much. Thanks for calling in. You welcome back. All right, caller, you are on the air. Hey Dave, it's Mike from Denver, Colorado.
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+[29:59] Hey, doing all right. How you doing? Good. Well, uh, my question is it's kind of twofold. We make a lot of half-hazard pickles at home.
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+[30:11] Kind of like throw cabbage in, sprinkle salt, cabbage salt. Right? And uh you know, I'm curious if there's a bulletproof because some of these we stick in the back of the fridge and you know, you figure them out a month later, you taste them, they're a little funky, you know, but you know, who knows whether it's actually safe. You know is there a I've heard of a five percent salt solution. It's generally safe.
+
+[30:35] Uh you know, and beyond that, you know, if you do a kimchi or something like that, will it actually keep indefinitely? Uh you keep it for a year in there. Oh, that's a good question. I mean, uh indefinitely is a long time. I mean, the the these things tend to um reach a peak and then can be kept for a long time afterwards without them becoming unsafe.
+
+[30:59] The question is, do they taste as good to you? Do you know what I mean? So so basically, you know, what you're trying to do is get the salt level, and I don't have it at the at the tip of my tongue because I always just kind of go and look it up when the when the time comes. Is it's you know fairly easy to calculate roughly the um the salt level uh that you need based on for instance the weight of cabbage that you have, right? And then uh pack the stuff together as long as it stays submerged, right, so that you're not exposed to a uh a lot of air, uh, and the salt level is high enough, and then when the lacto uh lactic acid bacteria start growing in there, you're going to have enough uh it's the combination of the acidity and the salt that prevents nasty crap from growing in there uh over time.
+
+[31:43] And it'll stay basically, yeah you could keep it a year. Uh you know the question is is it going to taste as good after that uh year is up. Now I like to rather than having to submerge things, I'll do a lot of vac pack, not to do a quick pickle but a vac pack to do something like a kimchi. Uh then you can see the bags inflate with carbon dioxide. It's great.
+
+[32:01] And then you know you don't have to worry about air getting to them ever because they're in a sealed bag. But that's not necessarily uh viable for home, which is why they people tell you to weight the stuff down uh or you know put a plastic bag with water on top in it to wait wait weight the guy down. Um but uh you know and another thing you could do to if if you're having problems with funkiness, I mean th a lot of the issues it sounds like you're using a wa you know wild uh you know whatever happens to be around your kitchen is what you're inoculating the um the product with you were well I like a I like a funky pickle. That's how I kinda why I'm curious about it, you know funky pickle I like that. But if you in other words but if you want something like that's consistent then you can just save some of your pickling liquid from your old batch, right?
+
+[32:46] And then after you mix in the salt and stuff slop in. I mean so like I have a brand of sauerkraut that I like, right? And so a lot of times I'll cheat because I know I like that brand of sauerkraut and when I'm working on something I'll save that sauerkraut juice and I'll dump that in along with the salt to my cabbage to kick start the uh you know the particular uh cultures that those guys use I happen to like it. So if you get a result that you happen to like then you can back slop it into your next batch and you're guaranteed to get that same kind of a uh a funkiness assuming that you don't get a contamination it's a robust enough starter culture so you can get it going. But in other words that same thing that that they do with with the sourdough you could do with a pickle in terms of starter culture like that.
+
+[33:27] Oh okay. And are you putting in uh salt via the raw weight of the cabbage and not the water? Uh yeah I mean like you know a lot of the old recipes that you don't even add water to them. You know, they just kind of will will liquid out over the course of the first you know day or so and then uh and then you can press them. Or yeah I mean you you want that when you're calculating salt levels uh for uh to prevent microbial spoilage right um you you're you're calculating on the final weight of total product and then what percentage salt is that right not the percentage of the brine uh because you know imagine if you had even the most concentrated brine that you could possibly do in the 30s percent right and then you were to put that you know teaspoon of that into a ton of cabbage you haven't added any salt right so it's always best to calculate uh salt on weight of total product water plus cabbage and that way you know exactly where you are and you're never going to go over and you're never going to go under you know I like my you know I like salty stuff so the stuff that I do is probably always pretty safe and you can get a feeling if it becomes acidic also remember the acidity is helping you and you're gonna have to have a lower salt requirement if your acidity level is high enough.
+
+[34:42] You know it's it's a it's a it's a multiple thing. If there's no acidity you need a much higher salt concentration. Do you know what I'm saying? Right. Yeah.
+
+[34:51] Is there a is there a good reference for that I'm sure I'm sure there is I don't like again I don't have it off the off the tip of my tongue, but uh, you know, I like any one of the agricultural extensions in the in the universities, they put out uh a lot of good pickling advice and s and they'll usually give you both a salt level concentration and a pH uh concentration uh you that you can deal with. Uh I don't have like a website I can send it to right away, but you know the it's it's out there, and usually the ag extension guys are very conservative, so you don't have to worry about it. They're not pushing the envelope of what's safe because otherwise they'd be in big, big trouble. And so their information is usually reliable. Cool.
+
+[35:33] I'll look into it. All right, thanks so much. All right, thanks a lot. All righty. So should we take a uh break or do we have another caller?
+
+[35:40] Uh no, but that's we're almost at the end here. And I have to read this because today's show has been brought to you by the Modernist Pantry supplying innovative ingredients for the modern cook. Do you love to experiment with new cooking techniques and ingredients, but hate to overspend for pounds of supplies when only a few grams are needed per application? Modernist Pantry has the solution. They offer a wide range of modern ingredients and packages that make sense for the home cook and enthusiast, and most only cost around five bucks, saving you time, money, and storage space.
+
+[36:08] Whether you're looking for hydrocolloids, pH buffers, or even meat glue, you'll find it at Modernist Pantry. And if you need something they don't carry, just ask. Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you with inexpensive shipping to any country in the world. Modernist Pantry is your one-stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients. Modernist Pantry carries unflavored popping candy, aka pop rocks.
+
+[36:27] Pop rocks. Fans of cooking issues that place an order of $25 or more before next week's show, we'll get a free package of these exploding delights to play with. Simply use the promo code CI74 when placing your order online at ModernistPantry.com. Pop rocks. Hey, so uh can I can I have a couple minutes, Jack, or are we uh we're rushing out of here?
+
+[36:47] We've got like five minutes, maybe. Alright, cool. So uh met one of the guys who was on the initial development team of Pop Rocks at one of the classes I taught, and uh, you know, Mikey didn't explode, that didn't happen. But uh the way pop rocks are made is that uh uh uh CO2 is put under very high pressure in the molten sugar. The sugar sets, uh, then they release the pressure, it explodes into little pop rocks thing, and inside of those uh frozen those uh sugar granules are residual high pressure CO2, and that's what gives Pop Rocks its uh its thingamajig.
+
+[37:14] And although Mikey didn't explode, he did say that they put a whole load of pop rocks into a truck that developed a leak in transport, and it did kind of blow the side out of the truck. Don't know if it's true, but that's what he said. All right. So let me rip through the email question so that no one can say that I didn't pay attention to my email uh people. Um Elliot Papineau, who we uh spoke about uh his knife work, uh knife sharpening the other day, ordered a walk-in horse strop, followed our recommendations and bought a strop, see whether it's nice.
+
+[37:40] His strop, Nastasha, made out of horsebutt. Horsebutt. Horsebutt. Uh also got a uh a shout out from um Dan Main in the UK, who works for uh DoveBid, which is a company that uh I've always seen, but I've never ordered. Makes me more nervous to order off of like a real auction site than it does to order off of eBay.
+
+[38:00] But he sent us some links to uh a tablet press, which I desperately want a tablet press. If anyone wants to lend us a tablet press, uh he can do it. But uh check out DoveBid for all of your uh for all of your biopharma needs, uh, which again we have them, which I don't really understand why we all have so many, but we do. Uh also Tom Fisher and Lansdown Pierre said uh he really uh loves what we're doing, and he realized last week when we were answering our questions that he loves what we're doing, and that the amount of knowledge we squeeze into a 45 minute show is incredible. Well, thank you.
+
+[38:28] Thank you very much. Uh and he's basically says uh he was going in the way back machine to last year when Nastasha was against her best judgment trying to make a pie crust with Crisco, and I said that lard is the only fat to use in such situations. Can lard be used in place of vegetable shortening in any recipe calling for vegetable shortening? Are there certain dishes where vegetable shortening is needed? And is it a one-to-one substitution by weight?
+
+[38:50] The difference in uh vegetable shortening and lard is that um lard is typically a lot softer than vegetable shortening. So it's more difficult to work, and you're gonna be in certain situations where you need the hardness of a crisco, uh, otherwise your product becomes completely unworkable. That's why I tend to work very cold when I work with lard. Also, if you're using natural lard uh that's rendered out, it has like a liquid and a solid portion, it's much harder to use, but tastes much better than uh hydrogenated lard. Hydrogenated lard, the one you buy armor in the store, armor brand hydrogenated lard, is uh still more plastic than Crisco, more s softer rather than Crisco, but uh much harder than real honest to God lard.
+
+[39:32] But yes, uh one-to-one substitution uh is is best. And lard in biscuits is fantastic. Uh lard in uh I've never tried lard in in uh in a cookie instead of butter, because I use butter in a cookie. But anyway, yes, you can use lard. And referring back to my question last week about extracting fruit juice with a centrifuge, I noticed most brew supply companies sell peptic enzyme pectic enzymes.
+
+[39:52] Wikipedia seems to be saying that it's uh used for the same person as pect uh same purposes as Pectinx Ultra SPL, breaking down pectin when making fruit juices. Can this be used in place of or to complement ultra SPL or am I barking up the wrong tree? Well, there's similar enzymes, but all the different uh pectinase enzymes that you can buy have different kinds of activities. Um and so even nolozymes, the people who make pectinex ultra SPL uh have a range of different ones that have different kinds of properties and different kinds of activities. We use Ultra SPL because that's kind of like the most kind of shotgun one they have.
+
+[40:25] It doesn't just take out uh pectin, it takes out hemicellulose and a bunch of other stuff. So any of these enzyme concoctions are kind of multiple uh enzyme brews that have various effects. Uh and I use that one because it's it works over a wide range of pH on a wide range of substrates. Uh you might be able to find one at a home brew that it works really well. I'm not uh I'm not sure.
+
+[40:48] Uh you know, you're not barking up the wrong tree. It's just, you know, we have a lot of experience with Pectanex Ultra SPL, and so I tend to go to that one, and it's not that expensive for us to use because we buy it in bulk. Make sense? Mm-hmm. Makes sense.
+
+[41:00] All right. Uh last in from Alvin uh Alvin uh J. Uh Schultz in Houston, uh, who apparently was on uh Top Chef uh something. I saw him, I looked him up. It was on Top Chef something.
+
+[41:11] Anyway, uh thanks for all the info you share with me via cooking issues. Also, congrats on Booker and Dax. I sent a bartender friend of mine in there this week and he was blown away. I hope to stop by during the uh international chef conference this year myself. Please do.
+
+[41:21] I have some questions about shopping for my first rotor vap. Because of my limited funding, I'm stuck with hunting through eBay ads. Anything I should be aware of in eBay auctions for rotov apps. How do I properly clean one that may have been used in a lab? Do rotovaps generate leak over time via worn seals, etc.
+
+[41:35] And what is the cost to restore one that may have such problems? I know Dave likes the cold finger style condenser. Does he just run those with a dry ice alcohol mix? Uh I also have uh liquid nitrogen in my home kitchen, 30 liter. Nice, huh?
+
+[41:47] Liquid nitrogen in home kitchen? Nice. Uh would it be better to use that for condensing? How long will a cold finger fill with lit uh nitrogen before it uh last before it boils off? And lastly, I see many auctions like this and substitute in some uh you know, kind of off brand rotary evaporator.
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+[42:01] For a rotovap uh under a thousand bucks on eBay. What's the catch with this seemingly Asian manufactured rotary evaporator? Thanks for your help. Uh also I've ordered from your sponsors at modernistpantry.com, and they're great, extremely fast shipping and nice usable packaging. Just wish they'd give a bigger discount for buying by the pound.
+
+[42:16] All right. Well, I'd stay away from that crappy uh, you know, uh roto vap that's really cheap uh because I've used even name brand rotor vaps that aren't the good ones in the past, and they're leaky and they stink. And if you have a leaky rotor vap, it's gonna be very hard to get a good flavor in it. And yes, they do tend to leak over time in their seals. New rotary seals, it costs about 50 bucks to buy.
+
+[42:39] You just want to get everything clean and make sure that the thing doesn't leak. If the glassware is etched so that it can't form a good seal, like it's scraped too much and etched, you're gonna have a problem. But most of those problems with leaks can be fixed. But a leaky roto vap is the first reason why you're gonna lose flavor in a rotovap. I do favor a cold finger condenser, but liquid nitrogen get eat gets eaten at a ferocious rate in a it's so a man every liter that you distill is gonna take probably seven, eight liters of liquid nitrogen in a cold finger condenser.
+
+[43:07] So you're gonna be tearing through that 30-liter doer. That said, that's a really good way to do it. Dry ice is gonna last you a lot longer. I don't use dry ice because it's hard for me to get dry ice in New York City. I have to take a cab and go to a place and then pick it up and then come back, blah, blah, blah, because I don't own a car, etc.
+
+[43:23] etc. So if you're in Houston, you own a car uh and you have access, I would use dry ice in a cold finger because it's gonna last a lot longer. Uh and I would you can get one on eBay. That's how I got my first one. And um you can fix most leaks.
+
+[43:38] You want to make sure that nothing nasty went through it. You're gonna want to clean it with a vi with like you know, Alcanox or some really hardcore glass detergent, bleach the hell out of it, even though it's probably more of a uh just a poison in it than a bio biohazard. It's probably gonna be more of a poison issue. But just clean the ever loving hell out of that son of a gun because I don't want you to be sucking in a bunch of carbon tetrachloride or crazy poison stuff. Poison cooking issues.
+
+[44:05] Oh you dead rat. Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information.
+
+[44:32] Thanks for listening. Got me.
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+[0:00] This podcast is sponsored by Talkspace. Last year I went through many different life changes. I needed to take a pause and examine how I was feeling in the inside to better show up for the ones who need me to be my best version of myself. When you're navigating life's changes, Talkspace can help. Talkspace is the number one rated online therapy, bringing you professional support from licensed therapists and psychiatry providers that you can access anytime, anywhere.
+
+[0:27] Living a busy life, navigating a long distance relationship, becoming a first step father. Talkspace made all of those journeys possible. I could speak with my therapist in the office. I could speak of my therapist in the comfort of my home. I was never alone.
+
+[0:41] Talkspace works with most major insurers, and most insured members have a zero dollar copay. No insurance, no problem. Now get $80 off your first month with promo code Space80 when you go to Talkspace.com. Match with a licensed therapist today at Talkspace.com. Save $80 with code Space80 at Talkspace.com.
+
+[1:02] Broadcasting live from Robert is in Bushwick, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you live every Tuesday from the back of Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn on the Heritage Radio Network, answering all of your cooking related questions, technical or not. Call your questions in to 718497-2128.
+
+[1:38] That's 718497-2128. As usual, joined in the studio here with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. How are you? I didn't. Nice.
+
+[1:45] That's really nice. Nice. Nice. That's just because she beat you here. Yeah.
+
+[1:50] I was like, Mark, we do have time to shave the back of your neck. Oh, that's what's happening. Now you all know something about Mark Ladner, like that. No, don't say. Alright, now, uh also, uh, howdy jack and the rest.
+
+[2:04] You like that? We got a quote like that last week. But I want everyone to know that uh was it two days ago on Sunday, Nastasha, the hammer, had dinner with none other than Dr. Ruth. Right?
+
+[2:19] I found out that she is an excellent sniper. You mean like sh like eBay sniping or killing people? Killing people. Yeah? Yeah.
+
+[2:26] So it's like all about the good sex, and if the sex isn't good, take you out from long range without you knowing. Wait, what? Yeah. Wait, wait, wait. Wait, wait.
+
+[2:33] You gotta talk more about this. First of all, she's 90 years old, folks, right? Yeah. And then her parents were uh, you know, died in the concentration camp. She was taken to an orphanage in Switzerland, and then for some reason she learned how to be a sniper.
+
+[2:47] After the war or during the war? During the war. Wow. Yeah. So like that little smile means that she will she will shoot you straight between the damned eyes.
+
+[2:56] Yeah. Wow. Yeah. I had no is this not is this commonly known, Dr. Ruth information?
+
+[3:02] No, I don't know how it came up. Well, with Nastasha in the house, you know, murder and sniping is gonna come up eventually. That's crazy stuff. Yeah. Wow.
+
+[3:13] That's impressive. That that certainly overshadows what I did this weekend. I went to the Sean Casey Animal Shelter in Brooklyn because we were looking to get a pet. Oh wow. Finally.
+
+[3:22] Well, Booker wanted a cat, of course, but we can't have cats because uh, you know, my sister-in-law is uh deadly allergic to them. And uh Jen doesn't want a dog. Oh, so you're getting an iguana. No, but the snakes, I mean, what are you gonna do with the snake? I was like, hey kids, you gotta feed the snake whole defrosted mice.
+
+[3:38] You have to purchase packages of like uh frozen whole mice. Wow that are they're frozen in kind of a uh suppository shape so that the snakes can just swallow those suckers without choking. You thaw them out, you thaw out this dead mouse, you throw it in the cage. I thought you were supposed to give him a live one. Uh well I mean I guess you could, but it's probably safer for the snake and kind of less traumatic for the kids if you throw in a frozen anyway, whatever.
+
+[4:02] I want a bird now. Not the things I want a bird. You know they have 20 pound turtles there? 20 pounds tortoise. Yeah, if they won't they won't give you the tortoise.
+
+[4:10] The tortoise they don't want to encourage people to own tortoises. Oh. This is a rescue only. Anyway. Uh okay.
+
+[4:18] Uh questions coming in. Uh hi, thanks for the brilliant show. Well, I don't know about that, but uh, thank you for enjoying it. Uh it's informative and hilarious and the absolute high point of my week. I've recently become chef of a medium-sized fine dining restaurant in Bergen.
+
+[4:30] Uh and I can't pronounce it with soot and salt, but but this isn't Bergen County, New Jersey. This is Bergen, Norway. Cool. Yeah, yeah, very cool. Nothing wrong with Bergen County.
+
+[4:40] Well. Stasi's got her jersey face on now. Actually, I'm gonna go to Jersey next weekend, rock and mineral show. The young one wants to go to a rock and mineral show in Jersey. Cool.
+
+[4:48] Did you know that New Jersey is one of the mineral capitals of the world? Yeah, I went there as a kid too. It's awesome. Yeah, right? It's cool, right?
+
+[4:54] Yeah, that's really cool. Yeah, see? See? Minerals. Okay.
+
+[4:57] Uh, where was I? Oh, yes. Uh somehow I got uh somehow I got drawn off track. Can you believe that, Nastasha? Uh and my so did my iPad.
+
+[5:06] Okay. We normally cook our fish wrapped in cling film. That's plastic wrap for all you guys out there. Uh, in the rationale combi oven with a fairly high delta T. Uh, meaning, if you don't know what we're talking about, it means that he's trying to cook it to uh a particular temperature, uh, let's say in the uh in the like 50 or somewhere Celsius in the middle or below, and then uh using a much higher temperature, like 60 or something Celsius, uh to cook it in, uh, which is actually a standard way of cooking, but in low temperature we talk about delta T's, we're talking about very specific uh differences in temperature between the cooking medium and uh what we're cooking.
+
+[5:39] Anyway, uh okay, with a fairly high delta T, usually 65 degrees centigrade for a core temperature of 39 to 42, which is I don't know what that is, but it's something like a hundred and see 42 is something like a hundred and three or something like that. It's the Fahrenheit. It's very low, very low. This is on the very, very low scale of uh cooking. In fact, most a lot of people wouldn't call it cooking, we call it warming.
+
+[6:03] There's like a lot of debate and contention about whether or not this is uh I mean I like it, but like this hyper low temperature fish anyway, let me get finished with with the question. Uh this yields a delicious fish in about five to seven minutes, but also a grossly overcooked and ugly exterior. Uh and what I'm assuming is happening is the outside is overcooked because 65 degrees is uh is high. And uh secondly, uh when you're cooking uh low temp in these temperature ranges, right, where you're not getting any seared uh or any sort of browning on the outside, you get uh white proteins that come out of uh basically solution or are drawn out and coagulate and look like little specks of almost egg white on the surface of the fish, and they look gross. Anyway, um okay.
+
+[6:42] So last night during service, we tried steaming the fish, but not really steaming, steaming is a misnomer. He had it in the combi oven with 100% humidity at 45 degrees centigrade to a core temperature of 42 centigrade, and it was awesome, stunning. The taste was almost raw, and the texture was almost flaky and completely transparent. It took uh we we cooked it almost 45 minutes. So my problem is, is this safe?
+
+[7:04] I always say to my customers that all the fish and seafood we serve are unpasteurized and/or raw, but is the additional 45 minutes in the danger zone okay? We use very fresh fish, usually in rigor. We dry salt it uh for 20 minutes beforehand. Uh and thanks, and please say hi to the guys out in Blue Hill Stone Barnes. So hello, Blue Hill Stone Barnes from uh Eric in Bergen, Norway.
+
+[7:24] Um okay. So my feel uh also he sent a follow-up email and he said 45 minutes was not the time needed to get the fish to the core temperature. It was an experiment to see if we could drop the fish in the combi as soon as we got the order in from a customer, but presumably it's a tasting plate, so it comes in early, uh, right? And if it would still be good after that amount of time. I now think it would be better to drop the fish when we have sent all the amounts to the to the table.
+
+[7:44] That would probably bring the cooking time down to 20 or 30 minutes. Uh we have a vacuum machine, uh vacuum packer, circulators, and so that's an option instead of putting heating in the combi oven, is heat transfer much quicker in a vacuum bag than in a combi. We feel cooking fish in a bag is good, but the look and texture suffers ever so slightly uh because their machine is small and they use an analog pressure meter, etc. etc. So they can never be very accurate with how much vacuum.
+
+[8:06] Uh it was also additional work. Okay, look. Let's knock these out in reverse order. One, I don't feel you have a need to vacuum the fish in a vacuum bag uh unless you are uh I mean most of us don't have a combi oven, right? And so vacing fish in a bag is the only way, or ziplocking a fish in a bag really is the only way we can uh do low temperature work with fish, right?
+
+[8:29] If you have a combi oven or if you have a uh uh man, the word just went right out of my head. If you have a combi oven or if you have a CVAP, you can do low temperature without it, and in many ways uh it's superior because uh a bag does a couple things. One, it tends to deform the portion slightly, right? Unless you're very good at vacuuming it or you put a lot of oil into it. Uh and two, if you suck a vacuum on fish uh and cook under a vacuum, I find that the texture is affected.
+
+[8:55] One of the things we do in the low temperature sous-vide class uh that I teach is um we serve a variety of the same fish in a sir at a variety of different vacuum levels cooked, and everyone, everyone can tell the difference in the higher vac fish. And also no one really likes usually the the super higher vac fish and also even some of the medium vac ones are weird. Ziplocks are usually pretty damn good because they don't have any sort of vacuum effect, but they allow you to cook low temperature and go on cooking issues, which yes, yes, I know I haven't written for in a long time. Uh and uh you you'll see step-by-step instructions on how to put uh fish in a Ziploc bag. Um But it is more work.
+
+[9:31] The other advantage of vacuum is you can infuse flavors uh if you do it, but you're not gonna hold these fish for a long time. Uh secondly, uh if you're telling people this stuff is raw and unpasteurized, uh, yeah, that's good. That's a good first step. I would not cook these things at that temperature for 45 minutes because you're incubating uh bacteria at that temperature. Um I think your 20 minute window is a lot uh safer, a lot, lot safer.
+
+[9:57] Um also 45 minutes, it might not be a problem with ling. I don't have a lot of experience with ling. Uh um, but uh some of your fatty fattier fishes uh will have enzymes in them that continue to break the fish down over time, and so a 45 minute fish will get mushy, even if uh it doesn't get uh microbially spoiled, it will get mushy. Uh I don't know specifically that when you when you put back when you put a piece of fish into the danger zone, uh the bacteria doesn't start growing immediately. There's a uh a lag time before the bacteria start growing, and then it goes into a log rate where it's growing uh at you know ferocious rates.
+
+[10:32] But the problem is I don't know exactly how long it's gonna take to get into the log rate uh of cooking, but your zone is right in the log area of growth where it's gonna grow at a ferocious rate. Then you have the problem if it goes out and you don't know how fast it was uh it was being served. I would feel completely comfortable with a fish that you tell people uh is basically raw, uncooked, unpasteurized, etc. Uh, with a 20 minute, with a 10 to 20 minute cook time and out if they were going to eat it right away and you never had the opportunity of trying to re-chill it again and serve it if anything happened. That I'd feel comfortable with 45 minutes, I'd start to feel a little bit um uncomfortable.
+
+[11:06] I mean, you know, again, you're probably not gonna do anything, but who knows. Also, certain fish can develop at these low temperatures uh histamines. Um I don't know which ones they are, but this is what Bruno Gusot tells me. I've never done the research because I kind of was looking at him cross-eyed when he was telling me because I he just hates this texture of fish. I mean, the real problem is is that also is that at these super low temperatures people, if you've never had these things, right?
+
+[11:26] Like this super super low temperature fish that we're talking about was one of the reasons why a lot of chefs in America, like Wiley Dufrein, my brother-in-law got into sous vide and low temperature in the first place is to get these hyper low textures of fish. They look amazing. They look like like almost like uh like candy, like jelly, like s like sometimes like it's almost like a like a vacuum-infused watermelon, like f like if it's like something like a like a salmon. So they look amazing. Like uh and the texture is uh we usually describe as kind of fudgy and dense.
+
+[11:56] Uh there's a particular temperature window right around there where the intense fishiness of raw fish goes away and yet it doesn't have the texture of cooked fish, and it's awesome. I really like it. A good fifty percent of the customers here in in New York don't like that texture. And so a lot of people have kind of moved away um from that kind of cooking here in the States. But yet uh it is a virtuoso thing to do.
+
+[12:17] Uh did I actually did I answer the question? I can't even remember. I did. And we just got an email from Matthew Leaf that says, Hey Nastasia, the way I remember it is that Dr. Ruth became a sniper for Israel after the war.
+
+[12:29] Oh, after the war of the war. Nice. I'm still trying to imagine this like what I've always known as kind of a sweet older woman sniping people. Yes. You know?
+
+[12:38] Like a little gun to the head sniping issue thing. Anyway, hmm. Uh all right, so you want to go to a first commercial break and come back? Sure. All right, let's go to our first commercial break.
+
+[12:46] Call your questions. 27184972128, that's 7184972128 cooking issues. That is Fay Lakuti Zombie. Zombie. Are you gonna like are you gonna like put that in with like cranberry zombie, like like opposite zombie?
+
+[14:07] Zombie opposites. No. So you know, speaking of zombie, my son is obsessed with this game, Zombie Highway. Have you played that game? Sounds awesome, though.
+
+[14:13] Yeah. Yeah. He was he was uh yeah, anyway, I won't get into it. Okay. Today's show is sponsored by Modernist Pantry, supplying innovative ingredients for the modern cook.
+
+[14:21] Do you love to experiment with new cooking techniques and ingredients, but hate to overspend for pounds of supplies when only a few grams are needed per application. Do you hate that, Nastasha? I do. Yeah. Modernist Pantry has a solution.
+
+[14:30] They offer a wide range of modern ingredients and packages that make sense for the home cook and enthusiast, and most cost only around five bucks, saving you time, money, and storage space. Whether you're looking for hydrocolloids, pH buffers, or even meat glue. You'll find it at Modernist Pantry. And if you need something that they don't carry, just ask. Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you.
+
+[14:49] With inexpensive shipping to any country in the world, Modernist Pantry is your one stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients. Modernist Pantry carries propylene glycolginate. PGA for short, which is derived from brown algae. Well, it's basically derived from alginate from anyway. Uh from brown algae and can be used to stabilize emulsions and thicken liquids.
+
+[15:06] It is particularly useful in creating what the heck are you opening over there? It's like it's like the sound effects thing. She like holds her zipper pocket right next to the uh microphone and goes it's crazy. Anyway, uh, where was I? Uh stabilize emulsions and thicken liquids.
+
+[15:20] It is particularly useful in creating a clean and creamy mouthfeel in beverages. Fans that's a gross thing to say, right? Nastash is giving her clean and creamy look. Uh fans of cooking issues that place an order of $25 or more before next week's show. We'll get a free package of PGA to play with.
+
+[15:36] Simply use the promo code CI75 when placing your order online at modernistpantry.com. Visit modernist pantry.com today for all of your modernist cooking needs. Alright. So PGA is one of the only uh PGA is one of the only uh ingredients that we use, along with methyl cell, methyl cellulose, that uh is not uh natural that we personally, I mean, use. And uh it's derived from um alginate and it's used as a thickener and especially in beverages.
+
+[16:06] It's been phased out recently because of label declaration problems because people want to say all natural and it's not. And the second reason is it's expensive. But it is a fantastic and unlike alginate, it does not have a problem with acidity. Color, you're on the air. Hey Dave, this is Mark Colling from Toronto, Canada.
+
+[16:24] How you doing? Great. I'm a big fan of your show. We listen to it all the time, and uh two good friends of mine are on their honeymoon, they're at your show right now, so big ups to Ann and Adam. Wait, what I do have a question for you.
+
+[16:34] What do they look like? Um they're you know, average height. Um Adam's got a bit of a pot belly. Wow. I wonder whether I wonder whether they're eating.
+
+[16:45] He's got a full head of hair. Yeah, okay. They're waving. Yeah. We're waving too much.
+
+[16:49] Oh, that's awesome. Uh you know what? You know what? I have a question. Is Indie Jesus here, Jack?
+
+[16:52] Can we get Indie Jesus to serve them? I haven't seen him. I he might have today off. It's awful. He's mysteriously missing.
+
+[16:59] Oh my gosh. All right. We'll look for him. All right. So your question.
+
+[17:03] My question is, um, so I'm interested in trying to do some freeze drying at home in my freezer. Ooh. And I built a couple sous-vide machines, so I understand about the the temperature controllers. I'm wondering if I can use a pressure controller to sort of put a pressure vessel in my freezer with whatever food I want to freeze dry, and then sort of decrease the pressure as the temperature goes down, trying to follow the you know, the triple point line of the the water phase. Okay, so you your your main um problem.
+
+[17:27] I mean, first of all, uh do you have access to uh liquid nitrogen and or dry ice? Uh dry ice. Okay. Uh yeah, you're gonna need to I mean i in general in a freeze dryer, they're gonna they'll actually sometimes heat heat the sample, right? I mean, what w what you're gonna need to do is uh get first do you have a really good vacuum source?
+
+[17:50] Uh yeah, I've got a pretty good vacuum pump. Yeah. Like a commercial, I can get a commercial vacuum pump. Like what but in other words, I I haven't looked it up recently, but you know, it's it's basically the the vacuum pumps that I use are commercial refrigeration vacuum pumps, and they only get down to about I'd say four, you know, three or four millibar in that range. And you're gonna need to get substantially better, you're gonna need to get better than that to get a really good result out of it.
+
+[18:17] Uh you need to get quite low, and you're gonna have to ensure that your cold trap, right, that can um you know the w so basically what you know for those of you who don't know, freeze drying, what you do is you freeze something typically, then you place it uh in a vessel, you suck a vacuum on it, and in and in between that and the vacuum you put a cold trap and the the liquids that are frozen solids, so say solids frozen in the thing, sublimate, turn to a gas, migrate to the cold trap where they're frozen in the cold trap, and you maintain a vacuum until uh the majority of the liquid that's in the product, or what would be a liquid in the product has sublimated and migrated over to the cold trap. That's the theory of operation uh of it. But typically you need to get a fairly cold um uh cold trap, so dry ice is fine. Uh anything I think below about minus sixty Celsius, I think is okay. Uh, but colder is typically better.
+
+[19:09] But you're gonna need to keep it cold the whole time. I would tr if you can, I mean if you can, I would uh use your vacuum pump to also vacuum insulate the cold trap on the outside. It's gonna stop your uh heat loss and prolong the life of your uh coolant of your uh dry ice. Um the other thing is uh yeah, the temperature control and I guess a freezer would work. But your main problem is gonna be getting the vacuum right and making sure your cold trap stays cold.
+
+[19:38] I've never had luck, let's put it that way. And the uh I tried it in the rotovap, basically using the roto vap as a kind of a a cheap uh way to freeze dry with my refrigeration vacuum pump, but again, that only got down, even I tweaked it all the way out and only got it got down to maybe like two, three millibar, and it's still I did not get any luck. But I encourage you to try and tell me what happens. Okay, we'll do. I'll keep experimenting and post something on the blog if uh anything works.
+
+[20:03] Please do. Please do. Thanks, thanks for thanks for calling it. My pleasure. All right.
+
+[20:08] Okay. Um wait, we have a follow-up. I just oh wait, wait, so we have a question in the other order, there you go. Other order, here we go. Uh from uh Aaron Call.
+
+[20:18] Hey cooking issue, Steam, great show. I started listening a couple months ago. I'm getting caught up with all the back shows. I recently decided to do a DIY, that's do it yourself, circulator, and just got it finished last weekend. I started uh with the Seattle Food Geek and Oh My Puddin plans, which I don't I don't know those particular ones, but I'm sure they're well-known plans on the on the internets.
+
+[20:35] But then made a few changes. Uh what I think are improvements. So that leads to my question. First, uh the fish tank pump I started with died around 55 degrees Celsius. I am now using a $15 high temperature pump that only moves one liter per minute, roughly 16 gallons per hour.
+
+[20:49] Using several probes, it seems to be acceptable in a small bath with one bag. Do you think this is enough movement or can you recommend a faster high temperature pump that won't break the bank? Okay, that I do not think that's enough. Uh that's look, any minor circulation is gonna be enough for one bag in a pot because you just need to get the thing moving. The problem is if you put the heater into a bigger unit and then you have a lot of bags in it, you're gonna have an you're gonna have issues with uh dead spots.
+
+[21:14] So uh a high pump, uh high you know, a higher flow pump is gonna be uh better typically. The one the last time I did one, I used a pump that was recommended uh on the brewer's forums. I forget what it is, but it wasn't that expensive for uh recirculated uh mash pumps, uh rims method, uh, and uh those pumps uh handle water quite well, and I believe can go up into the mid-60s or better uh Celsius. So you might want to check out the brewers' forums for uh recirculated mash pump setups, and they all have cheap ones. I just can't remember off the top of my head.
+
+[21:48] It's also readily available, the pump I remember from sources like Granger or eBay. Okay, second. Uh blah blah blah blah blah blah blah. Second, about safety. I know this is a topic you've addressed before, but I wonder if you could quickly run through some safety tips.
+
+[22:02] I'm using Ziploc bags. Under what circumstances and how critical is getting every last bit of air out. This is tough with ground meat. Is there an absolute minimum temperature to which you'd cook grocery store beef, chicken, whole or ground? Can I add anything to the bag to adjust pH or oxygen to help?
+
+[22:16] Anything else? Thanks, uh, Aaron Call. Okay, look. Uh and I'll I'll hit the follow-up when I w when I wrote in. Um okay.
+
+[22:23] Uh I'll do the follow-up afterwards. So the deal is is with safety, you don't need to get all of the air out of the bag. Uh you know, the the reason to get all you're not trying to do preservation for a long time, you're trying to cook, right? So getting the air out isn't as big a deal. That said, you can get some oxidation if there's an excess amount of air, especially on something like a uh creme en glaze.
+
+[22:43] When you're cooking a cremon glaze, you want to get the air out because I've noticed you get more of kind of an eggy sulfury taste if you don't. That's why, even though I cook a lot of meats in Ziploc bags at home, I really do prefer vacuuming for something like a creme en glaze when you're cooking it. Uh, ground meat, you don't want to get all the air out. If you did, it would be, you know, like a puck, it would be like a sausage. You wouldn't want that.
+
+[22:59] So you want to keep keep, you know, you want to keep it not not dense and crushed down. Um so the minimum temperature I would cook, uh depends what you mean by minimum. The minimum temperature that I typically recommend for people to cook at is about 54.4 Celsius, uh, because that's the minimum temperature for beef on the uh on the food, you know, the FSIS USDA website. So that's the lowest temperature that I usually recommend. There are people that recommend lower.
+
+[23:28] I typically will cook at fifty-five like steak. I will typically, and even ground meat if you cook it long enough, you have to cook it long enough because you put a lot of bacteria into the inside of the meat when you grind it, but uh 55 uh for steak and usually for uh for a hamburger I'll do like fifty six uh if I want like a rarish, medium rarish kind of thing. Cook it through. Then if you want it to maintain rare all the way through, drop the temperature to 50 degrees Celsius for uh uh about 30 minutes to to cool it, cool it down, then sear the hell out of it to get a crust on it. If you want the burger to have more of a standard taste, then don't chill it before you cook it, and you'll be fine.
+
+[24:04] But that's uh typically uh what I do. Uh and as the follow-up, I took copious uh copious notes and decent photos through the process of making the circulator. You mentioned you have a close relationship to the poly science guys, so I don't know whether you'd be interested, but I'm happy to write it up and send it to you to use as a blog post, another resource, or even just for your amusement or a critique. It's surely no thing of beauty, but I think an improvement of the other plans that already exist on the internet with greater detail in the construction steps. Let me know if it's worth my time to draft and I'll send it your way.
+
+[24:29] Why don't you send some of the photos to Stas? She'll look at it. She's a rough critic. You're the roughest critic in the world. She she hates ninety percent of the stuff I do.
+
+[24:37] And she hangs out on the weekend with snipers. Right? Okay. Paul writes in with a comment on last week's show where I forget who it was, called in and said he had problems with his chickens being tough. Every like fifth chicken breast was being tough from the Costco.
+
+[24:51] And he says, virtually all broilers, uh, nine all nine billion of them that are slaughtered in the US, nine billion. Jesus. Wow. Uh in the US are slaughtered at essentially the same age, 40 to 45 days. So tough chicken is likely not an age effect.
+
+[25:04] I I agree. But the question is, what is the effect, Dan? Has anyone else noticed the one in five tough breast problem at Costco? Have you noticed that? No.
+
+[25:13] And then we'll there is a Costco in the Bronx in Harlem. Really? Mm-hmm. How do you notice? I passed it.
+
+[25:19] How do you on the train? If you go on the Metro North, you can see Target and Costco. The funny thing is it's actually easier for me to fly to Europe than it is for me to go to uh you know, above. Yeah, it's crazy. For those of you that don't know New York, like we think we're hot snots here, but I mean, I don't mean that in a bad way.
+
+[25:38] I mean, but I mean, yeah, you know what I'm talking about. And but the the thing is is that we're so provincial, we hardly ever leave within like 10 blocks or 20 blocks of where we live. We're like, oh my god, uptown. I have to go uptown. You know, coming out to Brooklyn here, basically I feel like I'm uh I'm uh an adventurer, an explorer because I live in Manhattan.
+
+[25:56] And people in Brooklyn, I guess sometimes feel the same way. They're like, oh man, I gotta go into the city, I gotta go to Manhattan, Jesus. Anyway, weird. What do you think, Jack? Yeah, that's exactly how I feel when I have to go to the city.
+
+[26:06] Yeah, see? But notice they call the city. Yeah, booya! Okay. Uh and a question from Paul.
+
+[26:13] Over the last month, Dave has mentioned two preferred knife sharpening tools, Duo Sharp and Edge Pro. Can you comment on the need to have both? Or is one preferred and which one? The um okay. So the Edge Pro is a sharpening system, and it's one of the uh sharpening systems that's based on fixing the angle between the knife blade and the uh sharpening tool.
+
+[26:32] So basically you have on the edge pro, you hold the knife by the handle with the blade facing towards you, and there's a stick on it that you rub back and forth over the surface of the knife, and that stick's maintained at a at a very you know precise angle. So you can get both sides of the knife, and you don't have to think, you don't have to look, and you can sharpen a billion knives in like 13 seconds once you set it up. It takes like five, six minutes to set it up. Once you set it up, you can sharpen all your knives very quickly to the same edge angle. It's extremely repeatable.
+
+[26:59] So if you want to know if you know you want a particular edge angle on something, you can just rip them all through, right? Now, uh it's not very effective uh if you only need to do one or two knives, or if you need to constantly change your angles, or if all of your knives are at different edge angles, because then uh you know you're having to reset it each time and and all this other stuff. I do like it for multiple multiple things, and it gets things unbelievably sharp, okay? And it has a wide range of grits on it, and you can replace the grits, and this you know the things stay true and they don't gouge out. The um the duo sharp is basically just a hand, a large the one that I use is a large hand diamond whetstone, right?
+
+[27:37] And what I you know it requires you to have a uh it you you know, like a traditionally sharpening your knives, it requires you to use your senses, your hands, your eyes, and your you know your your finger when you're when you're you know feeling for the burr edge to determine whether you've gotten the angle correct on the sharpening and uh you know when you're done, etc. etc. They have a grit on both sides. What I like about the duo sharp is it's extremely thin, it's fairly light, and it will never warp, and you'll never gouge it out because it's uh diamonds. So, like a lot of the Japanese water stones have problems where they get gouged and they have to be retrewed over time.
+
+[28:11] That said, like I like I say, most like high-end chefs, they still adhere to their uh, you know, their Japanese water stones, and they would probably scoff at you know, my duo sharp uh that I have around. But when I use it, my knives are freaking sharp, and I get people who are like, all right, that's freaking sharp. And uh Nils, who is a water stone man for many years, uh tried mine when I was away once and was like, alright, I'm getting one of these suckers because you know what? It's easy to fit in my bag. I don't have to freaking soak it in water.
+
+[28:40] It doesn't make a mess all over my knives the way that the uh water stones do. Uh, and I don't have to retrew it ever. Done done done done and done. Right? Hey, look, if you don't like it, call up and blame me and tell me I'm a jerkwad.
+
+[28:53] But make sure you get the really, really uh the the green and red one. Don't get one of the coarser ones. It's not gonna be it's not gonna be happy for you. Okay. So uh I have a uh should we do one more quick commercial break there, Jack?
+
+[29:06] What do you think? Yes. Commercial break, cooking issues, don't bring that shit to me. Don't bring bullshit to Africa. Don't bring that shit to me.
+
+[29:47] Don't bring Dashi and Brucey to Africa. That's exactly what he was saying. This is a Japanese food hater from Africa. Yeah, man. What was that?
+
+[29:56] Fighting words. Well, I had to just, you know, it was a quick commercial break call by you, so I did just click on something. But what the heck was that? That was Sean Cootie. I'm guessing Fela Kuti's son.
+
+[30:05] And the whole premise of this is I do not want to see a Japanese store in Africa. And furthermore, furthermore, I do not want to see any sort of crappy Japanese African fusion cuisine with your Dashi based stuff in my in my in in my food, basically. Yeah. That's crazy, crazy stuff. Crazy stuff?
+
+[30:39] Stas, you would like that. Stas does not like combo. You like Dashi, though. Yeah. As long as it's got the katsu Bushi in it.
+
+[30:45] Yeah. But don't bring Bushi to that guy. Don't do it. Don't do it. Don't do it.
+
+[30:51] He's not pleased with it. Okay. Wow. I I can't even think about anything else. My whole life's outlook is like changed.
+
+[30:57] I did not realize there was such a katsu Bushi hating crowd out there. Uh with uh, you know, um yeah, weird. Okay. Uh hey Nastasha. Uh just you.
+
+[31:08] I love what you and Dave. Oh, I love what you and Dave do. Uh, but mostly you, Nastashi. They know I read. They know you read?
+
+[31:14] Yeah. The emails. Oh, I see. I mean, she can also read. She has that capability.
+
+[31:18] Anyway, uh, I have two questions. Okay, listen, I'm gonna answer the first question, or really I'm gonna post postpone because I really don't know the answer to the first question. And the second one, I'm gonna do your question along with someone else's question because it's one of those rare instances where I've gotten very similar questions in the same week. Okay. One.
+
+[31:33] Where does the term eighty six come from? So those of you that don't know what we're talking about, uh, usually there's a there's a number of things. You could say someone is eighty six, which means they're no longer welcome, right? In a restaurant or a place, or you could say an item is 86, and that means we're out of it and and stop serving it, right? So, you know, when last night when we ran out of the peach, uh, by the way, listen to this.
+
+[31:54] At the bar, Booker and Dax, we have a peach dish on the menu, a peach drink. I don't want to hear about it about how it's not peach season. Let me tell you something. It's never freaking peach season in New York, right? I mean, like, we grow peaches here.
+
+[32:04] Remember when we had those really good ones? Were they from New York? No. They were from the remember they were we bought them in Harlem, but they were trucked up from like uh down south somewhere, like like Maryland or some crap, and he's known for that, right? New York is not like look, I have the book Peaches in New York, so I'm fully aware of the history of peach growing in New York State, okay?
+
+[32:22] Uh, but it it's uh, you know, look, we just it's not our finest point. But the fact of the matter is, right, that uh peaches when they are in season don't last very long. And so you have a boatload of peaches lying around. So the question is you can either make uh traditional peach brandy with it, which is delicious, right? Uh, or you can make uh peach jam, or you can make canned peaches, which Nastasha happens to find incredibly delicious.
+
+[32:46] Do you not? You like a canned peach. They're my favorite thing. Yeah. In fact, Nastasha likes a canned peach, not as a substitute for a fresh peach, but rather as its own thing.
+
+[32:58] Correct? Right. So Nastasha said, Hey, look, you know, it's uh it's winter time out. Why don't we make canned peaches a drink and put it on the menu? So we made canned peach juice, right?
+
+[33:10] And then uh Karen Jarman, one of our bartenders, made a delicious tequila mezcal umaboshi vinegar canned peach drink. Which, you know, it's clarified in the center of your snows. But people are like, oh my god, it's not seasonal. It totally is seasonal. It's absolutely seasonal.
+
+[33:25] Peaches are always in season. Well, no, canned peaches are not in season in the height of summer. You should be saving them for other times. Okay. Well, they're always in season for me.
+
+[33:29] Yes. Anyway, my point is it's okay to use it as long as you use it for the right reasons. That made that up. Oh, that reminds me. But I know I'm not gonna have time, but I have to go through it anyway.
+
+[33:43] As I was walking here to the to the radio show, I looked on the street and there was an empty, kind of crushed box uh box of hot pockets on the street. Hot pockets. You familiar with hot pockets? Yeah. Now, my kids, I don't know what the hell it is.
+
+[33:55] My kids look like go to the store, they look in the thing, and they they want the freaking hot pockets. And the thing is that the only television they ever watch is streamed through Netflix or Hulu. So they've never seen the commercial where they're like, Hot pockets. Now I I know that like hot pockets is like a, you know, that that tune, like, I almost want to buy it, you know, and the word hot pocket, like has that awesome like alliteration, hot pocket. You know what I mean?
+
+[34:20] It's like, and if they hired like Snoop Dogg to just get on the air and go like hot pockets, hot pockets, hot pockets, I would buy it. Like, if you just said it like five times in a row, I would do nothing but buy hot pockets. You know what I mean? But how the hell do my kids know this? What kind of evil marketing genius do they have that can make a kid look at a box of freaking hot pockets and say, Daddy, buy me those damn things.
+
+[34:42] What was the sound effect? I like that. What was that? Actually, uh, for those who don't know the Hot Pockets song. Oh, do it.
+
+[34:47] Do it. When you want a hot meal without a big deal, what are you gonna pick? Hot pockets! What are you gonna pick? Hot pockets!
+
+[35:00] Hot pockets filled with delicious pepperoni pizza, chicken and cheddar ham and cheese. In a crispy pocket. When it later, not in your own. It's not crispy, usually. Hot pockets!
+
+[35:13] You know what I'm gonna do? I'm gonna go out and buy me some hot pockets. Oh, don't do that. But the thing is, how have my kids know that? They've never seen that.
+
+[35:19] I mean, that commercial is a sale, Jack. Come on now. It's pretty good. It's pretty damn good. Anyway, hot pockets.
+
+[35:24] Okay. Maybe we need to make a modernist pantry commercial like that. Oh man. Alright. So the second.
+
+[35:32] Oh, oh, so uh 86. I don't know how the hell we got it is. Okay, so 86. Uh anyway, the point is that when you're 86 something, uh, it's gone, or you have to get rid of the person, etc. etc.
+
+[35:42] Now, uh it's like many terms uh of this nature, uh, there's no accepted um there's no accepted uh derivation of it. The etymologies are kind of all BS and they're all based on like uh very tenuous uh reasoning. Uh some people say that, you know, Delmonico's the restaurant uh had an item number 86 that was uh always out. Uh some people have said that it comes from a streetcar where the 86th Street was the last stop. Some people have said it comes from uh, you know, the crew on a on a ship that only had eighty-five, and so the eighty-sixth person wasn't there, etc.
+
+[36:16] etc. Supposedly there was a law about alcohol service that was um, you know, Article 86 that no one's ever seen the article or printed it, uh, etc. There's no there's a table that only had 85 seats and 86, etc. blah blah blah blah blah. Anyway, uh these all seem to be pretty much to be uh horse hockey.
+
+[36:34] The other good one is uh Chumley's, which is a famous speakeasy in New York, it was spake easy, is number eighty six on its street, and so they would throw people out and they'd see the eighty six sign. Go to Snopes.com for you know, basically a good rundown of all this, but all this stuff seems kind of uh nonsense. This uh the Snopes writer, I believe it's a woman, I forget who it is. Uh I couldn't copy it because they have an anti-the like copyright. They won't let me right-click and paste.
+
+[36:57] But uh her main thesis is probably it's a rhyming slang, eighty-six for NYX. You know what I mean? Nix it, nix something, nix it eighty-six. Anyway, uh but there's also a whole host of I didn't have a chance to find my copy, but uh Darcy O'Neal's uh uh fix the pumps uh has a lot of old soda slang jargon in it, and that you know, and also probably old diner slang, and uh that's one of those old terms, so he might go into the etymology and he's good with that kind of a thing. The book Fix the Pumps, by the way, is an old slang term for check out the woman with the large breasts, basically fix the pumps.
+
+[37:31] That's what the slang is for. Uh uh anyway, so uh what do you think? Is that that answer that question? Basically, I don't think there is an answer. Uh the second question is quite interesting.
+
+[37:42] Is uh two, when it comes to soaking livers, may it be monkfish, duck, chicken, or even beef. What's the what difference does it make to soak it in water, carbonated water, or milk? What works best? Uh the carbonated water actually, uh, and this is from Philippe, the carbonated water I'd never heard of. Uh, but it's interesting.
+
+[37:59] I did notice in the 1890s, there was reference if a bird was gamey or if parts of things were gamey to uh wipe it with soda water. But my presumption with they say soda water isn't carbonated water, but water with baking soda in it. Or uh, you know, uh and so you know, or cooking soda in it. And uh uh that seems to me to make more sense because then they say to pack it with charcoal to get rid of the bad odors, right? Because you're gonna cook that damn thing, you're not gonna throw it away back in the 1890s Boston Cooking School book.
+
+[38:30] Um so I'm wondering whether that carbonated water is actually a modern thing that has some sort of scientific merit, or whether it's a misread of soda water from uh a much older technique of deodorizing a uh you know, a gamey bird. Uh the other thing, whether it's going to be water or milk and what works best, I'm going to combine in with uh a question we have on sweetbreads uh from uh Adam Lazarick. I was hoping you could give your opinion on soaking sweetbreads, livers, and other awful, mainly touching on using milk or not. If milk, what's exactly why exactly is it used, and are there other alternatives? Is there a time maybe you could touch on your preferred cooking technique for cooking sweetbreads, i.e.
+
+[39:08] in corte bouillon, sous vide or not, to press or not, peel before or after, and so on. I've always soaked in milk, poached and then pressed, but never really questioned why to press and soak in milk. Okay, so I'm gonna handle those two things at once. Here's the deal. Uh most of the cooking techniques for awful involve getting it's a horrible word, right?
+
+[39:28] They're they they now but even like all of the alternatives they use for awful are also awful, like variety meats. Variety. Sounds terrible, right? Anyway. Uh a lot of these techniques are made to either get rid of residual blood in them uh because there's uh you know, they're usually typically they're not um they're not muscle, and so a lot of times you want to get rid of the blood, like in sweetbreads, so that the color is good.
+
+[39:51] So soaking helps with that. Or to get rid of the off flavors that develop because um these things spoil relatively quickly compared to muscle meats and tend to have a higher bacterial contamination at the beginning, right? And they also uh tend to have a lot of fat that tends to break down more than the fat in uh regular whole muscle cuts. And so you have uh, you know, fat oxidation, you have microbial spoilage, uh, and you have a lot of other things that cause these things to kind of be stinky and to need a little uh special tender loving care before they're cooked. And that's a lot of times what the soak is doing.
+
+[40:23] Also, if you're gonna poach something, uh, you know, they'll typically say put it in cold and bring it up when you're poaching it, and that's also to draw stuff out. McGee mentions this that that you know you start cold and bring it up so that you can um so that basically you're drawing soluble proteins out, and then once they're drawn out, cold, then they coagulate on the surface, and you can skim off that uh undesirable scum that floats on the top of the uh of the blanching pot when you're doing uh poaching of uh offal and sweetbreads and things like this. Now, milk is very interesting because a lot of these uh a lot of these cuts can uh develop uh off flavors due to fat breakdown, rancidity, and um basically just you know the breakdown, free fatty acids, things like this. And they have a lot of lipid-based um uh off flavors in them. If you soak in milk, milk is going to be better.
+
+[41:12] This is by the way, just off the top of my head, but I believe it to be true. Uh but this is not based in like scientific research, but this is what I'm telling you. And someone can come back and tell me I'm a jerk or an idiot, which I'm sure they will. Uh uh like milk is good because it's water, but it has uh uh fat in it. So I'm thinking skim milk probably wouldn't be as good for this, right?
+
+[41:30] And it would suck out the um it would suck out some of the fat-based off flavors, right? Better than water alone would. That's my guess. What do you think about that guess, Nastasha? That's a good guess.
+
+[41:41] Yeah, good guess, good guess. Anyway, so the soaking is good is is to draw out uh things that are soluble, that are not bound, uh that can be taken off. Uh salt is going to flavor it, it's also going to um probably help it out texturally. Uh if you use salt water, uh salted milk might be a good alternative. Uh, and I think that's what's going on.
+
+[42:01] And then you you never keep the milk, you discard it because it apparently is sucking up all the evil, all the evil humor, right? Uh and so that is my guess for that. Uh as for um But I want are there any other like partially fatty things that you could use like that? I mean, I bet you could make a soaking thing that wasn't milk if you were allergic to milk. You could like emulsify some fat into something with an emulsifier and then add it to it.
+
+[42:24] You think that that might work. Like take a Lloyd 310S, use that to make like a uh an olive oil water emulsion, or use an ultrasonic homogenizer to make a milk out of like uh, you know, you could do it. I mean you could make a non-milk-based alternative if the question is that you can't use milk. Uh I tend to do, and I don't know why, but I tend to do the the old school uh with sweetbreads. I um I will I will soak them in salt water, poach them in milk, press them, and then fry them.
+
+[42:52] Uh but I don't know why. I like a crispy sweetbread, by the way. I don't do sous vide or any of that stuff on it. Uh I should. I have the instructions for it, uh or the temperatures for it on the blog in the in the cooking charge, but typically I do it the old school way because I like a crunchy sweetbread, right?
+
+[43:08] And not a mushy one. Do you like a mushy sweet bread or crunchy? Crunchy. Crunchy, yeah. Uh and uh I press it so it stays together.
+
+[43:14] I put salt water in the soak so that it tastes good and uh and draws out the extra uh blood and whatnot, and I use milk because I don't know why. I just do it. You know what I mean? Uh right? I mean, there's no no better.
+
+[43:27] Oh, by the way, if you like uh sweetbreads, but you uh don't like uh uh bovine spongiform and cephalopathy, aka mad cow, or if you're worried about it, I don't know if people are still worried about that nowadays. Or if you're worried about any sort of uh T S E trans uh transfer uh miscible, transmissible spongiform and cephalopathy, which is degenerative uh drain disorder uh brain disorder uh related to you, yup squatch fell, very similar, 100% fatal, uh takes a long time. Anyway, uh, if you're worried about that, uh you can make something of very passable fake sweet bread using uh chicken skins. You just roll up uh you you you sprinkle chicken skins with salt and meat glue, roll them into a roulade, let them set, poach them off, cut them into pinwheels, and deep fry them, and they are very similar to sweetbreads, and delicious, I might add. Very delicious.
+
+[44:12] Dave, I hate to do this, but it's time. Oh man, I can't get the one last one. We gotta get the next caller on the line for the next show. Oh man. Alright, listen, Lee Calman.
+
+[44:21] I have your question on hearts, on how to cook hearts, and I will tell them I will tell you my answers on it next week. And it involves an article called Studies on the Development of Tenderized Chicken Gizzard and Goat Heart Pickles. Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store.
+
+[44:57] You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening. And I just can't get it straight. Vicious Vishes
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+[0:03] Broadcasting live from Roberta's in Bushwood, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from Roberta's Pizzeria on the Heritage Radio Network in Bushwood, Brooklyn, every Tuesday from approximately 12 to 1245. Today, Jack, we are coming exactly 12.
+
+[0:36] 12 on the dot. Which does not happen. No. Unfortunately, we are not joined in the studio today with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. She is taking my place at the Bukey Trade Show in Florida, Orlando.
+
+[0:49] Orlando, Orlando. Yeah. So she's uh she's down there uh roto vaping um scotch in uh in a rotary evaporator, and then taking the leftover oak and uh making ice cream with it. And I'm assuming taking the uh the you know the clear scotch, the uh we call it you know gray dog, the one that's been uh ta had the oak taken out of it in the road of app, I'm sure she's just drinking that to drown her sorrows. Right?
+
+[1:16] I mean she's not a hey, no offense to Florida. She's not an Orlando fan. Let me just put it that way. She's not happy to be taking my place in Orlando. But eventually today in the audience, uh in the uh studio rather, we're gonna have Tony Connigliaro.
+
+[1:31] And since nobody can pronounce his name, which I I think means rabbit keeper in Italian, uh, they just call him Tony C. But Tony C, it uh runs, you know, one of my absolute most favorite bars in the whole world, uh 69 Colebrook Row, uh, in London. Fantastic bar. He has uh a you know a laboratory as well where he does a lot of really high uh you know cutting edge work uh in cocktails and was uh one of the cocktail bars where I first experienced uh you know the fact that you could use very high end uh very high end stuff in a very comfortable wonderful atmosphere and so Tony should be here in a minute but he uh is as many guests have been uh trapped somewhere in Brooklyn and does not know how to get to Robertus that happens man it does it does he left like he was in Brooklyn in Williamsburg headed here started like half hour ago and has not yet made it amazing anyway uh calling all your questions to 7184972128 that's 718 497 2128. It's kind of sad not having Nastasha here right yeah yeah I can do my best I can you know make some faces and stuff.
+
+[2:40] I know but I can hardly even see your face yet somebody needs to sit across from you at that table and make faces. Right preferably someone like Nastasha who has like a a peculiar knack for getting me angry. Right. Yeah yeah all right anyway while we're waiting for questions to come in uh we have a question from oh this is last week's question that we didn't get to from uh Lee Calman and by the way my kids ran my battery dry on my iPad so I'm actually doing this uh this show via my iPhone and uh case you didn't know I'm getting a little old so it's hard for me to read these tiny tiny letters. Anyway, hey guys love the show got my hands on three fresh lamb hearts well since this question is from last week I doubt the lamb hearts are fresh anymore.
+
+[3:18] You know what I mean Jack? Uh I trimmed the first one in the medallions and simply grilled it with salt and pepper. It was delicious. The second I also trimmed in medallions and cooked at low temperature for 56 Celsius at 56 Celsius rather for three hours and also had uh it was delicious, but it had a very similar texture to the first attempt. Wondering how I might get it a bit more tender on the third heart, perhaps another hour or two of cooking.
+
+[3:41] Or since it's relatively lean cut, is there nothing really to break down? What would you do? Well, Lee, uh, I love heart. I haven't done a lot of work with uh low temperature cooking on heart, uh, but you know, the way that you did it first, which is you know, really grilled quickly with like a char on the outside where it remains chewy on the inside, is to me my favorite on almost any kind of heart, you know, like chicken hearts. There's nothing, there's nothing quite like a grilled uh chicken heart.
+
+[4:06] Like if I could grow chickens that just had hearts and skin, that I would do that. I mean, I love chicken meat, but chicken hearts and chicken skins are are incredible. But I think you kind of hit the nail on the head. It's relatively not only is it relatively lean, but uh I believe, and I did some research into it, I believe most of the uh that you know, muscle, heart muscle isn't necessarily connective tissue like it would be in something like a gizzard or something like that, which gets very soft with prolonged cooking. Uh heart is mainly just really strong muscle.
+
+[4:34] And so I don't know that it's going to break down the same way uh as um you know a cut with a lot of collagen and it would with prolonged cooking. I'm not saying it won't. I mean, you know, you could try a couple of days and see because it actually you you it would work if you cooked it for a long, long time it worked. You know, because you can tell even with very uh lean cuts, uh they get tender if they're cooked for a long time, but it's not really a pleasing tenderness, it's more of a mushiness. So I don't know if you're gonna be able to get um I don't know if you're gonna be able to get exactly what you're looking at uh with that, but I did find an article called uh Studies on Development of Tenderized Chicken Gizzard and Goat Heart Pickles.
+
+[5:14] Uh this is uh in 2009. It's uh A.K. Mighty is the uh is the author. It's an awesome name, Mighty. Uh anyway, uh they're studying uh traditional Indian uh heart uh and gizzard pickles, and uh they did something very smart.
+
+[5:29] They they sliced it relatively thin, they jacarded the meat somewhat to get penetration, and then they brined it in a meat tenderizer. They were using a variety of natural tenderizers. Um for instance, ginger uh apparently has some tenderizing agents and enzyme in it tenderizing. They're also using the late, not figs themselves, but the latex from a papaya uh from fig uh plant uh or tree, and uh uh a weird uh bitter gourd extract that you can't get here in uh in the US to try it out. And uh they had very good luck uh tenderizing it that way.
+
+[6:02] So you you could try you could try that. Uh and then I read some other uh articles online, although I haven't done it using uh baking soda actually as a tenderizer. Presumably the lye, the alkaline nature breaks down the protein structure somewhat and causes it to bind less strongly to each other and makes it uh more tender. Uh but that uh but now I want to try these pickled, these pickled goat hearts. Wouldn't you wouldn't you just chow down on a on a jar of pickled goat hearts, Jack?
+
+[6:28] I would, yeah. I mean, I'd never considered that before. Why don't you get uh get Patrick to order us up some goat hearts? I I mean I have the procedure right here. I mean it's it's pretty dang simple.
+
+[6:38] They they give you the whole thing. I think October was goat season for him, but I don't know if he's getting more. Yeah, but it's a goat heart season. I mean, these are right. Well, if he if he pickled them, we should be able to have them, you know, all year all year long.
+
+[6:49] That's right. Uh also uh another way to tenderize meat that you might not want to do is uh ionizing radiation at high sterilizing doses of uh uh high high high sterilizing and radiating doses caused changes in meat proteins, resulted in increased tenderness, and God knows what else. Uh actually I shouldn't say that's stupid. But like uh for many years, people um were against the irradiation of uh fruits, vegetables, and meats because they saw thought that somehow the the the food was gonna glow in the dark, and so there's a whole group of people that are anti-irradiated foods. To me, the only real argument against uh irradiating foods is if the if the actual uh irradiation source is unsafe to the workers, unsafe to the environment, which I don't know if they are or not.
+
+[7:32] Uh, and B, does the crap taste good or not? You know? And um So that's how they did that glow in the dark sushi. No, no, no. That's like that I I don't really know.
+
+[7:41] I researched that once for a very short amount of time. That's like a bioluminescent protein. I mean the one that like you see Farran eating the popsicle and his tongue is glowing. Yeah, that's a bioluminescent protein. When you when you irradiate food, I mean there's not I mean, all the studies that I've read, and they're all old because they were trying to use basically the byproducts of all sorts of awful tests and things that they were doing.
+
+[8:00] But um, you know, but basically there's no uh residual radiation uh left in the food. But one of the issues is you'll get uh textural degradation of the food uh uh over time as it's irradiated. It's the same problem that some people have with uh very, very high pressure, high hydrostatic pressure uh sterilization, things like oysters. Uh they say that there's textural changes, and it usually means that you've breaking broken the stuff down somewhat, so this can either be seen as a positive or a negative. I mean, one person's tenderness is another person's mushiness.
+
+[8:30] Me personally, uh I like meat, I like to taste the muscle, uh, the fiber structure. I like it to be tender, but I like the structure to be intact. When that structure starts getting broken down, such as something that is naturally kind of chewy becomes tender. To me, uh to me, that's mush. If all you're doing is breaking down collagen and the collagen breaks down, but the muscle fibers are still intact, that's tender to me.
+
+[8:53] Um so it to me it's uh it's a fine line. Anyway, we've got a caller. Oh, caller, you are on the air. Uh big fan of the show and what you guys are doing. I have uh a science question and a recipe question for you.
+
+[8:58] Go ahead. Uh his science question is uh so my father is diabetic and tries to treat exclusively with diet. Uh so it's foregone dessert, but uh was thinking of trying to do uh meringues for him, and uh you've talked a lot about how the importance of sugar, not just as a sweetener, but as a a structural uh component. And I was curious if you have thoughts on uh meringues with uh without sugar and just the sugar alcohols. I know erythritol has gotten a lot of press.
+
+[9:35] Um if you have thoughts on that dimension. Uh well, that's interesting. I haven't specifically done it. I mean, I uh the the one we always keep around is isomalt. And uh I'm trying to think if I've ever made a meringue with ice.
+
+[9:47] Oh, guarantee you a meringue with isomolt would work. It just won't be as sweet. Do you know what I mean? So you'd have to um uh I I I don't have a lot of experience uh doing one-to-one sugar replacements, i.e. trying to keep stuff sweet.
+
+[9:59] Do you know what I'm saying? Um I have much more experience trying to get the textural properties of sugar without the sweetness. So I'll use things like glucose um uh syrups and uh or if I want something harder that's gonna have a lot more of a gelling property, I'll use uh isomalt. So uh which is the one you mentioned, I forget. Uh erythritol.
+
+[10:21] And does it have similar sweetness properties to uh sugar? It's a sugar alcohol that uh the body doesn't break down and it doesn't have a lot of the nasty uh gut properties that a lot of other sugar alcohols have. Uh yeah, for those of you that don't know what we're talking about, sugar alcohols are generally undigestible, and so they add to what you would consider your bulk fiber content, so they can cause uh what's the nice word, flatulence and and runniness and whatnot. Uh is that is that a polite way of putting it, you think? I I think that was delicate, yes.
+
+[10:54] Yeah. So uh so if it has similar sweetness properties, I mean the great thing about isomol, aside from uh the fact that it's not sweet, which is I like, is that it's uh it doesn't pull a lot of moisture out of the air, and so it uh maintains its structure for a long time. Um and I don't know the properties of the other sugar alcohols, but it I mean look, I know isomalt works, so I'm sure the other sugar alcohols, assuming that they don't pull too much water out of the air and turn to a soupy mess, would work as well. Do you know what I mean? Oh, great.
+
+[11:22] Okay, I'll start experimenting. Can you do me a favor and send send us a note and tell us how it worked out for you? I I certainly will. So a a a recipe question, if if you don't mind. Uh so I'm among the Legion throngs that have decided to hack together our own immersion circulators, and it's been really fun to play with.
+
+[11:38] Uh I had fun trying to do head-to-head recipe comparisons where you start with very similar base ingredients just to show off the effects to skeptical friends. Uh chicken worked well, did a buttermilk marinated chicken and uh either a high heat roast or a slow cook with a flash fry. And it was a lot of fun to sort of compare and contrast the different effects, how the marinade took, etc. I was curious if you have uh other suggestions of uh you know recipes or ingredients where you can do uh a really nice comparison that's scientific. You start with the same ingredients uh and show off the power of uh slow cooking.
+
+[12:16] Strictly speaking, slow cook versus normal cook? Uh slow cook versus normal cook, or just the fun that you can do with uh low temp food. I mean, the cheapest and easiest thing to do, and it's not, I mean, it depends, it's impressive if you haven't done it before for someone, obviously is eggs. You know, showing showing someone an egg at 63 versus 62 versus 64, people are like, oh, I get it. That's pretty awesome.
+
+[12:40] Um steaks are uh are are a good one to show kind of equal done equal doneness uh all the way through. Obviously, here's one that's interesting. It's not better or worse, but like a very like a slow cook uh on a short rib, some people prefer most you know m like if you tell someone that it's um if you tell someone that it's the same thing as a braid short rib, then then generally they like the bray short rib better. If you just tell them here's like a really cool cut of meat, in general people really like the long cook things like short ribs because they have an intense meaty flavor and they cut they cut tender like a steak. So uh a short rib that's cooked for 24 hours at let's say fifty s uh at like fifty-seven to sixty C is gonna have the texture of a skirt steak, which is pretty amazing for people.
+
+[13:23] Do you know what I mean? Or cooked for 24 to 36 hours is going to have more of a tender steak texture. People kind of like that as a comparison. And it's interesting to compare that side by side with the traditional braise because they're totally different. Not better, not worse, different.
+
+[13:37] Um, but give give those uh give those uh a shot. All right. Thanks so much and keep it up. Thank you. Tony C, Tony the Rabbit Man, Tony Canoyaro is in the studio.
+
+[13:52] Hello. How you doing? Good. How are you? Had trouble getting here, huh?
+
+[13:56] Uh yeah. Yeah. Uh all right, so I described you uh a little bit uh to the audience as uh I don't know what I said. I said uh fantastic bartender, drinks factory lab, uh sixty nine Colebrook Row. What's the name of the hotel bar again?
+
+[14:09] Uh Zessa Townhouse. Yeah, yeah. Apparently also awesome. Bastard. Yeah, you've been saying it yet, have you?
+
+[14:15] Yeah. Yeah. So uh so anyway, so uh we actually had a question in uh for you know you and I to talk about cocktails, and then uh after that I think we'll go to a commercial break and bang out some stuff. Hold on a second. Nastasha, who's not here today because she's in Florida, uh, tweeted it out yesterday, so we got in a good question for you.
+
+[14:34] Uh okay. Uh this is from uh Kevin for us. Uh hope you and Dave are doing well. Uh I've really been enjoying the last few shows. I just saw you have Tony C on today, so I had some cocktail questions to send your way.
+
+[14:48] What are your thoughts on the binary interactions of taste combinations? I've read a few papers that essentially say that sodium in both uh sodium chloride and uh MSG suppress bitterness, sugar and acid uh and cancel and wait uh suppress bitterness and sugar and acid cancel each other out, etc. Do you have any methodical approaches to adding small amounts of flavors to find the perfect balance, or do you have a standard ratio you apply? How do you know how much salt to add to a cocktail? Huh?
+
+[15:14] That's the perfect question for you, Tony. Yeah. Let me just bounce that around in my head for a few seconds. Um I think at the end of the day, you can read papers and you can you can look at lots of sheep. It's how it works in your mouth.
+
+[15:32] And you've got to keep trying and trying. I mean, when we're kind of making cocktails and we're we're kind of working on stuff, you know, we it's almost like uh uh an artist has a blank canvas. Until you've kind of put something on that canvas, then you don't know what else is gonna happen on there. Uh so we kind of uh guesstimate sometimes off some of the you know kind of literature we read, and then kind of work it up and down until we get the perfect formula. That kind of can involve like making uh a drink or uh you know uh a mix um you know up to 30, 40 times until we've got that exact kind of resonance that we want in our mouths uh and that we think will work once we give it to a larger larger audience.
+
+[16:14] Um so I think a lot of these kind of papers just use them as vague guidelines. I don't think you can ever ever say that will work universally until you've actually kind of tried how it reacts with all the other ingredients. Right. I mean, I'm sure you have like a go-to starting point. For those of you that don't know Tony, like if you walk into his, I don't know if they he still does this, but if you walk in when they're actually doing testing, uh they'll have uh various and Tony is uh as I mean, I'm putting words in his mouth, he's right here, he can talk for himself, but uh big proponent of um subthreshold uh uh you know modifiers like salt and other other flavors like that that you wouldn't necessarily be able to pick out.
+
+[16:53] In fact, he doesn't want you to pick them out, but they're there to kind of round and punch flavors up and down. And I remember one time I visited his bar and they were working with I forget what the particular ingredient was, but they were uh the eventual cocktail is gonna have a fairly small amount, and so they were trying to figure out what their mix was gonna be, uh, you know, that was gonna I guess you I don't know whether you work out of bitter's bottles or what, but they were using a micropipetter to basically make a bunch of iterations with very small differences in particular components that would then and they're not gonna pull out a micropipeta at the bar, but that it's to help them figure out what their uh base is going to be to work with when they're actually behind the bar. So is that's something you still do at the end of the thing? Yeah, I mean, I think that that experiment there was um something that ended up in uh the dry martini that we did, which was to make a dry martini drier. Uh and rather than it kind of being a flavor, it was an effect which which was using kind of um uh condensed tannins that we got from grapes so we kind of macerated them then rotovated off so they were very very concentrated and you could have like you know ten uh microns per litre of vermouth sorry uh per litres of vermouth that would have an effect even when you put it in a drink uh and we use micropipetus for that uh and you know we kind of started fairly high but I mean we started around fifty and even adding fifty microns to uh a bottle of vermouth and then making a martini with it dried you know pucking your mouth up so much that it didn't work.
+
+[18:24] So we kind of, you know i i again it's it's trying and then seeing where these things would go. Because you know sometimes these papers are kind of you know uh uh use pre-made chemicals and whatever else that you buy from laboratories. Uh the difference with that and I suppose kind of what we do we're kind of a bit more fast and loose in as far as we're making these ingredients ourselves. So you know we can't test the amount of kind of tannins in something by ourselves so the register is basically in our mouths, which I think it always should be anyway. I mean that's the most important instrument.
+
+[18:59] Yeah it's it's the most accurate anyway. Yeah and it's it's what we're mixing for. We're mixing for the mouth not for the HPLC machine. Yeah exactly you know um well the mouth and the nose I guess and the eyes. But we're mixing for the human being.
+
+[19:11] For the human being. Yeah. Uh clever instrument that one clever instrument that one. Exactly. Yeah, pretty good.
+
+[19:17] Sometimes it works. Sometimes, yeah, exactly. Uh but uh, you know, I know at the bar, uh one thing we we tend to add, uh I mean, look, obviously we have uh go-to ratios of acids. We all have our own favorite uh basic sour ratio in our head that we can move up or down on depending on what the mood, you know, what mood strikes us or what the you know the additions we have to it are. And I also I personally have a basic uh salt.
+
+[19:42] You know, at the bar we we have a uh our standard salt solution is uh 20 grams of salt in a hundred milliliters of water, dissolve it, put it into standard kind of American, not you know, not Imperial drops, but uh standard American eyedroppers. And uh and you know, uh depending on the drink, uh, you know, most citrus drinks get a drop or two, depending on uh how much we want. Like for me, uh daiquiri is a one-drop drink usually, and uh most of our tequila drinks are two drop drinks, uh, because people like a little bit more of an edge on their tequila drinks. So I mean I think there's you know, once you start incorporating something like salt into your um into your the routine of bartending, um, you're going to find kind of go-to uh go-to ratios that you like. And then Tony takes it another step further because you know, every time I've worked with him, he really enjoys uh fine-tuning.
+
+[20:39] Yeah. You know what I mean? Yeah, that's definitely something we do, just because it's it's the you know, being able to replicate these things over and over again uh that I think is important because there's nothing worse, I suppose, than going to a cocktail bar and having you know uh the same drink that you really love, but it comes out in different variations each time. So we try and narrow that band down as much as possible by using some of the micropropettes and equipment like that. Uh just because it makes it you know super accurate and using kind of super accurate scales and and things like that.
+
+[21:08] Yeah. And it you know, Tony, by the way, for those of you that don't haven't had a chance to go to uh sixty nine Colbert Row, uh is he's the master of busting all this equipment out behind the scenes, but when you show up at the bar, it's like you know, a tranny band and a honky tonk piano. And so there's like there is no um at least the you know three times or what that I've been to London and hung out basically exclusively at 69 Colebook Row, uh is uh you know, you you wouldn't um know from being there that you're dealing with someone who is taking such precise care of their drinks until you taste the cocktails, which are fantastic. And so it was one of the first places where I really saw in practice that you can have uh you know a real palace of cot of to the cocktail, but in a completely friendly atmosphere, which is you know something that hasn't really been replicated too often. I think that was you know, it was always a consideration and always something that we wanted to do because I think um the minute you kind of have the bartenders talking about um you know the science of it, it can be pretty boring.
+
+[22:19] You know, it's you know the atmosphere needs to be conducive to you know, I want to talk to you, let's have a conversation, or you know, there's there's the distraction, you kind of go there to get distracted. You know, if there's yeah, there's obviously people that want to know more, and that's you know, that's open as well. But our focus is to run a bar that is enjoyable and is fun and has you know uh is about hosting, it's about bartending, it's not about kind of geeking out. Right. I mean, a booker and dax, which is, you know, the bar that you know I'm running now, um with Tristan.
+
+[22:52] Uh the you know, I think we really fell into that trap early on, even though I knew I didn't want to fall into that trap. A lot of the tech, you know, the techniques were so new to the crew that they were just excited about it. I think there was a little there was quite a bit at the beginning, too much talk maybe to the customers about it, and we really kind of I think uh trying to ratchet that back because it's really just about the drink. But what you do as well is a lot of fun. I mean kind of watching you last night in the excellent bar that you um was the you know it's fun to watch you kind of do the thing because that th that's a point of interest.
+
+[23:25] I think you know, some of the things we do aren't that interesting, like micropipettes aren't interesting to watch. But watching you watching you kind of carbonate stuff and and you know, use the liquid nitrogen and uh and all of those things is a visual exciting thing to actually to watch. I think that brings a whole heap of stuff to to you know uh the to the table. Yeah, I mean it it's it's an interesting question. I just want to make sure you know you want to make sure that that nothing that you're using is a gimmick and that it doesn't become which I thought I don't think we do.
+
+[23:54] Like so for instance, you know, at Booker and Dax we're very uh we're very low on garnish. You know what I mean? Kind of at this point specifically. It's not that I can't make a bunch of crazy garnishes. It's just you know Pringles last night, wasn't it?
+
+[24:07] Oh my god, that's great garnish. Uh I hope that makes it in the bodega week our Pringle our Pringle garnish. And of course, you know, Brits don't know what a Pringle is, so we had to go through a long explanation of what a Pringle is to Tony. Pringles. You know, Pringles are kind of a miracle.
+
+[24:21] Pringles uh was like one of the biggest R and D development budgets on a food product of all time. And it took like twenty years to pay back and Pringles finally started making money like twenty years after they did it because of the amazing like investment in potato chip molds that they made for the Pringles and the can development and all that. Crazy, crazy stuff. All right. Alright, so another cocktail question from Kevin.
+
+[24:43] Yeah, indoor. Let's take a quick break first. Oh, quick break. Oh, alright. We're going to quick workle break.
+
+[24:47] Call up with 7184972128. Cooking issues. Speak pimping, baby. Speak pimping spinach. G G you know why talk them from love em leave 'em.
+
+[25:16] Cause I don't need them. Take them on the hook. Keep them looking good, but I don't feed them. First time they bust, I'm breezing. Talk about what's the reasons.
+
+[25:24] I'm a pimp in every sense of the word. Till I need it till I need to be the gustin' is B beep and I'm picking them up, then I'll play with the truck. Many chicks wanna put chicken fists and come. Divorce them and split his bucks. Just because you got good.
+
+[25:39] I'ma break bread, so you can be living it up. Hit off. I'll be forever macking. I got no passion. I got no patience.
+
+[25:52] And I hate waiting. And then that's right. Check them out now. Check them out now. We do it.
+
+[26:12] We be Costco size pimping up in NYC, baby. I wonder what Jay-Z thinks of Dashi. I'm sure he doesn't want Dashi. Doesn't want Dashi or Bushy. That was like the best sound.
+
+[26:22] We might have to play that thing again. Love that stuff. Uh okay. Today's show is sponsored by Modernist Pantries, uh, supplying innovative ingredients for the modern cook. Do you love to experiment with new cooking techniques and ingredients, but hate to overspend for pounds of supplies where only a few grams are needed per application?
+
+[26:37] Modernist Pantry has a solution. They offer a wide range of modern ingredients and packages that make sense for the home cook and enthusiast. And most cost only around five bucks, saving you time, money, and storage space. Whether you're looking for hydrocolloids, pH buffers, or even meat glue. You'll find it at Modernist Pantry.
+
+[26:51] And if you need something that they don't carry, just ask. Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you with inexpensive shipping to any country in the world. Modernist Pantry is your one-stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients. Modernist Pantry carries Pure Coat B790, a modified cornstarch that can be used to create films, glasses, and fruit leathers. Glasses.
+
+[27:09] Glasses. Not that kind of glass, Tony. Fans of cooking issues that place an order of $25 or more before next week's show. We'll get a free package of Pure Coat to play with. Simply use the promo code CI76 when placing your order order online at modernistpantry.com.
+
+[27:24] Visit modernistpantry.com today for all of your modernist cooking needs. I've never used cr um, I've used uh crisp coat, but I've never used pure coat. Crisp coat is like a batter uh coating. These things like these film formers they use for things when you're frying, they form a film so that grease theoretically can't penetrate, and they also help with batter adhesion. Uh and you, you know, things like this you usually use in like uh so like in flour, you use like a 10% by weight to fry things.
+
+[27:50] Uh but I haven't used it in a long time because my frat coating is good enough. I don't need any crisp coat or pew coating. I'm just kidding. I'm just kidding. It's all good stuff.
+
+[27:58] Uh especially if you're gonna do something like um oh like uh tenpura stuff. But this stuff sounds like it's not actually used for for that. It's used more to do uh to cast like like glasses and fruits and sheets of uh starch. I'm sure it's great stuff. I just don't have that much experience with it.
+
+[28:15] Okay. Second cocktail question is on gel-an ice cubes. Um I'm trying to find it. Okay. I know that you've made gel-in ice cubes before.
+
+[28:25] I'm intrigued by the concept of a non-melting ice cube, especially if it could be uh better heat retention than a standard ice. Plus, it'd be cool to have an edible cocktail within a cocktail. My question is have you had any success getting the gel and to stay clear when frozen? Maybe a different hydrocoloric combination would work. No, it won't it will not stay clear.
+
+[28:41] It just won't stay clear. I've not tried that actually. Yeah, it won't stay clear. I've worked with uh medicellularized before. Yeah.
+
+[28:47] We might like absinthe ice cubes and put them on the spoon and then lit them and then they melt melted. After they cool. Yeah. Yeah. But and they clear when they're when they melt, but they're when they're solid, they're white.
+
+[29:00] Yeah. Especially with Hapsinth. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[29:03] Uh I mean, gentlemen, here's the thing. When you use uh any sort of uh hydro for like to lock in water that's frozen for cooling, you're never gonna get quite the cooling power. I mean you'll get theoretically the cooling power, but what happens is when you're chilling with ice, the outside layer of the ice melts. That water instantly goes into your cocktail, chills and dilutes. When you've locked the water into a hydrocolloid, uh you have an uh uh believe it or not, water is a better insulator than ice.
+
+[29:31] So you inhibit the chilling effect of the ice that's on the inside of the cube as it goes. So it will keep a drink cool, but it's never going to be as effective as ice. Ice is a damn effective chilling agent. Uh what I did do uh recently, because they were quite small. I have to go on Ellen, the Ellen uh have to.
+
+[29:51] I'm going to Ell, I'm going to be on Ellen de Generous uh later this week for her St. Paddy's Day cocktail. And uh they didn't want any of the drinks that we actually had on our menu. I don't think. I guess I don't know, not a fan.
+
+[29:59] I don't know. But uh they uh so there's all these uh kind of uh I'm doing a bunch of wacky stuff. So if you watch it's not stuff that you would actually see at the bar. But one of the things I'm doing is uh breaking apart raspberries with liquid nitrogen and then using the raspberry beads the as basically uh ice cube BBs to shake a drink to chill a drink that's already been diluted and it chills it down, and then you know you get the raspberries and you drink it with a straw and you suck them up like you know, in the like you know, in your mouth, it's like that pretty much. So stuff like that.
+
+[30:34] So you can shake with uh frozen fruit. Um one of my favorite techniques is that what with limes as well? I don't know, probably little lime pips. Yeah, grapefruit works. Uh huh.
+
+[30:43] I haven't tried lime because the lime, the vesicles are so small. Uh I mean, you know, one of my favorite uh it is not gonna give you a cocktail within a cocktail, but one of my favorite things to do, especially at home if you don't have a lot of gear, is uh to f is when you're using non uh non concentrated mixers like grapefruit juice or apple juice, freeze them solid like ice cubes and then shake them uh instead of with ice because they break into a slush because you know, juice doesn't freeze as hard. Yeah. So they break into a slush in the tins and then uh and it gets really freaking cold and your dilution's always right because you just shake it till the whole son of a bitch turns to a slush. You know what I mean?
+
+[31:19] Numbing. Yep. Uh okay. So let me see. I'm I gotta now I gotta try and split between just like Tony and I having uh uh a conversation and uh and some of these questions because you guys have a uh a lot of questions in.
+
+[31:33] Uh let me go uh to uh let me see. Oh, here's a here's a here's a here's a good one. Okay. Uh Stephen Garrett from Wellington, New Zealand. You ever been to New Zealand?
+
+[31:44] I've not yet. I'd love to go. Yeah? Yeah. Because you're a Xena Warrior Princess fan?
+
+[31:44] Uh Lord of the Rings, I think. Lord of the Rings? See, I'm uh like Lord of the Rings, like I never really I saw like one or two of them, but you know, I like you know, Xena like hit me right at the right time, like you know, Xena. Uh there's a question that uh you missed last week about hearts and cooking. I'd love to hear a little about tartar of heart.
+
+[32:05] You ever had heart tartare? I've never actually had it. No, I've not either. But I'm sure it's good. I mean, one of the problems with Oregon meats is they have to be really fresh because the way that they're processed and cut out, they tend to spoil quickly because they're exposed to more bacteria than whole muscle cuts, right?
+
+[32:17] I mean, that's just a kind of a fact of life. Hearts probably are okay because they are a big whole muscle cut. You just wash off the outside or whatever, trim it. Uh I've never actually had uh um heart tartar, but I did look up uh basically most of the recipes I found online trace back to a friend of mine, Chris Constantino, who is known for his cooking of uh, you know, awful meaning uh awful, not awful, you know, awful. There you go.
+
+[32:40] Uh and he has a beef heart uh tartar Pudonesca style. That means uh torn-up hearts in the style of whores. Right? Yeah, that's kind of that translation. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[32:51] It's not far off. Yeah, horse style heart heart chop. Anyway, uh kind of see where you're getting with it. Yeah, yeah, anyway. So uh yeah, he has a recipe.
+
+[33:00] It's very easy uh to find and it looks interesting, but I've not had it. I'm sure it's good, kind of chewy. I mean, are you a meat tartar kind of a guy, Tony? Uh I can be. Although I've not had that, but I've kind of partial to tartar.
+
+[33:13] Yeah, right? A little acid, a little you know, he has some interesting stuff. And so I just look up uh, you know, look up his uh thing. Also, following up on the soda stream, the carbonate alcohol, soda stream. I don't know if they have that in UK soda stream.
+
+[33:24] Yeah, you do, yeah. It's the home carbonator. Uh I you know, I've recommended for a while adding an extra tube to it so that the tube can dip down low enough so that you can get it into alcohol and carbonate it without getting foam over, basically. Uh so following up on the soda stream to carbonate alcohol, it works. Uh extending the tube to the bottom of the bottle, but it uses a lot of gas.
+
+[33:40] Uh to make wine sparkle, you have to carbonate, vent, carbonate, vent, and carbonate and let it sit pressurize for a good few minutes, and it has to be almost ice cold. Everything you've said is true. But that's the only damned way to carbonate something properly. Yeah. Is uh you know, if you come to the bar and you see us carbonate, we're we'll carbonate four or five three you know, between three and five times on any of our drinks, um, just to get rid of all of the little nucleation sites that are in it so that we get a nice stable bubble and we have it more than ice cold.
+
+[34:09] In fact, one of the big things I have to beat out of uh the bartender's heads is to put uh the our carbonated drinks on ice, because ice is only at zero, right? And our carbonated drinks are at like minus eight. So, you know, when they when they're putting it uh when they're putting it on uh on ice, they're warming it. You know, so it's like I'm like, don't do don't do that. Do you add water to the uh mix pre carbonate it with with the alcohol?
+
+[34:34] Because a lot of the I've tasted alcohol that's been made sparkling and the flavor is very, very old. Yeah, so we like I I once did uh bottle bottle strength carbonation, and if you're gonna carbonate something at bottle strength, it has to be absurdly cold, like minus eighteen C. You know. Um otherwise the perception of alcohol is just crazy. If you get it down to a temperature where like let's say you're gonna do let's just use straight gin.
+
+[35:01] Yeah. Right. If you're gonna get it down to a temperature where it's like syrupy in the freezer, then and and you carbonate it, it's quite enjoyable. But as it starts to warm up even a little bit, it's to me kind of unpleasant. And then if you add anything like a sugar or an acid to it for flavor, it it just goes way out of balance.
+
+[35:19] And I think the main uh problem that people do when they uh when they're carbonating liquor is uh they serve it at two high proof. So, you know, if you're if you're um serving uh you know, a stirred cocktail is gonna be probably somewhere in the area of like 17, 18%, and a a shaking cocktail. I have to go do the math again, but a shaking cocktail is gonna be somewhere down closer to like fourteen, fifteen percent. But like a a carbonated cocktail should really be all the way down at like twelve. You know, it's a yeah.
+
+[35:51] Yeah, you know, so if you look at the proportions of uh classic cocktails, they're about that. We used uh uh if you see that machine, the alkalizer that measures all the kind of uh bricks, but also the kind of ABV. So we were shaking you have one? Well, we borrowed one. It was very expensive, but we borrowed one of a uh a company.
+
+[36:06] What's it called and Tom Pow alkalizer? Is it awesome? It's it really is awesome. Cause you you can check all the um uh you know the bricks percentage but also the ABVs. Uh and we were talking to Harold about the the the perfect parameters of where flavor will hit and where you taste the best.
+
+[36:25] Uh and it was between f uh uh I think between 14 and 19. So within those kind of you know parameters you've got like a uh you know the most enhanced um amount of flavor in a cutter. When you carbonate that punches stuff up, which is why you have to drop the I always drop the alcohol level in a carbonated drink. Yeah. But I mean with the Tom Collins, you'd add slightly more sugar, but that kind of floats the flavor a little bit more anyway, so I mean it it's it's interesting problem, but most of the time, and I also remember when I first started carbonating, I would basically I would just shake a drink and then carbonate it.
+
+[37:03] And those are too alcoholic and end up tasting too syrupy and they fatigue your palate quite quickly. Whereas uh and they just taste a little bit off like the acid balance goes off a little bit, and you just add some like lighten it a little bit with water, you know, not a boatload, but you lighten it a little bit with water and the whole thing just becomes more pleasant as long as you keep the bubble level at you know the same. Are you guessing with um with uh come dark side are you using other gases too? Uh I have the ability to do a nitrous CO2 mix. Yeah.
+
+[37:39] Uh and when I make uh water, I use nitrous CO2 because I want to soften the bubbles a little bit. I want to have the same liveliness, but I want to soften the bubbles and nitrous is gonna soften it. Adds a little bit of sweetness and some creaminess, but really it just softens up that bubble. Um the CO2 can actually make things more acidic. Uh and it kind of registers as that.
+
+[38:01] Yeah, it it well I mean you know that like the the studies show that eventually it is your sour uh taste receptors that are responding to what an enzyme is doing to the CO2 or w the way a CO2 affects a particular enzyme pathway on your tongue. So it is related to acidity and it does actually produce acid, mean you know, carbonic acid, you know what I mean? Um but I think the f what carbonating a drink does um is really complicated. You know, um I find that uh if you taste a drink flat that you want carbonated in, it should taste a little too weak and a little low in acid, and also I like it a little low in sugar because something that tastes balanced as a sipping drink, like it just it gets like syrupy and almost soda like for me. And I don't want like a soda-like flavor in my cocktail.
+
+[39:00] You know what I mean? I suppose people see um because there were loads of tests over this. I think it was Bernard Lahouse from Food Pairing did loads of tests for on the aroma on top of cocktails that have been carbonated, and the results are so so varied and all over the place just because you know what you're adding to um the um mixes a hell of a lot of aroma because that CO2 is carrying and almost stripping the flavor into aroma and then taking it to the top of the drink. So you you've got a whole other kind of spectrum to look at, uh, rather than just flavor. I mean, because if you taste it in Manhattan, there is some aroma, but there's not as much.
+
+[39:38] Um so that kind of whole aroma spectrum kind of makes that it's a drill outside, isn't it? Uh it's a jackhammer, I believe, yeah. Um welcome to Roberta's. Well, uh we'll we'll kind of change your perception of the drink as well, and that can vary quite a lot. Yeah, and yeah, Manhattan is one that you're doing your entire perception is changed, and I think for the worse, I detest carbonated Manhattans.
+
+[40:03] I don't like them at all. I think they're hideous. In fact, I use that as the demo of when carbonation goes bad. The other thing is I think it's it's you can make very excellent carbonated rum drinks, but I think it's also very easy to go wrong with a carbonated rum drink. You know, they can taste, uh, they go from being a delicious drink to almost fake tasting.
+
+[40:24] There are great carbonated rum drinks. I've had other people's good carbonated rum drinks. I've made carbonated rum drinks that I also like, but it's like it's a difficult thing, I think, to do. You have to be spot on with your mix, I think, to carbonate uh a rum drink properly. Gin carbonates like nobody's business.
+
+[40:38] Like almost any gin drink can be made carbonated and it tastes delicious. Uh or can be made to taste uh uh delicious. Um it's difficult. Like it's difficult to do a carbonated tea beverage because the tannins get blown out. You know what I mean?
+
+[40:52] Like they they are or amped up is what I mean. You know what I mean? Yeah. And so it can be it can be uh difficult. All right.
+
+[40:58] Jack, should we go to one more commercial break? 7184972128 cooking issues! But you heard about me. Don't be I am here to set you free. Don't let a stranger say your stories.
+
+[41:43] I got a place already for you. Don't be uh You can leave your beer behind. Can't you tell I'm in your corner? Don't you know I'm good for you, you'd be too much together. There is nothing we can do.
+
+[42:22] Oh no. Chicken. Welcome back to Cooking Issues here with Tony Camilliaro. Does everyone in England pronounce your name wrong? Is that why you always go by Tony C?
+
+[42:44] Yes. I'm sure I'm pronouncing it wrong, but I'm close enough, right? But you are close enough, yeah. I've had some horrendous uh versions. I mean it's quite funny whenever the post comes in.
+
+[42:52] I think we've collected about 400 different spellings so far of my name. Yeah. Just at the bar, yeah. So what's your f what's your favorite what's your favorite mispronunciation? Well, there was one with W's and Z in, which I you know is How the hell do you get that?
+
+[43:04] I have no idea. It's just one of those kind of mistakes. I mean the one you must most get all the time is Canigliaro. Mm-hmm. Cause that's like a baseball player that actually went by that here in the US.
+
+[43:14] Yeah, for the uh Boston Red Sox. Yeah, yeah, yeah. And he was Cunigliaro, not Corneliaro. Yeah. Right.
+
+[43:20] Yeah. Well anyway, so he goes by Tony C. Of course, you know, in England you are dealing with a country where they they, you know, they say spagball when they're talking about sp what is spagball anyway, that's spigar bolonese? Uh yeah, spigali bolognese. Yeah.
+
+[43:34] Spag. La bolognaise, yeah. Spag ball. Tony, by the way, uh true to his uh Italian name is uh what are you half Sicilian? Half Sicilian, yeah, my father's from Sicily.
+
+[43:45] You speak normal Italian or Sicilian or both? Uh I speak normal Italian. Uh Sicilian's like a complete different language that we didn't really learn. Uh it's kind of only spoken by Sicilian Sicilians. Yeah.
+
+[43:55] Yeah. I mean the the old word filters through, I think, but it's not as a as a whole. I don't know. Yeah. Were you were your uh family actually rabbit keepers back in the day?
+
+[44:05] I have no idea, but I do know that that name comes from one village. Uh and most kind of, you know, people that have that name, you know, have a line of heritage going back to a little village called Carini outside of Palermo in Sicily. Nice. Never been to Sicily. Someday.
+
+[44:22] Oh, it's lovely. Someday I'll get to go. And by the way, I'm gonna I'm gonna go ahead and apologize in advance to anyone whose questions I do not get to today. Uh, because uh, you know, Tony's not here every day. In fact, he's never been here before.
+
+[44:34] And so uh I'm gonna have a conversation with him somewhat. But if you have any questions for Tony, you still have a little bit of time to call in your questions to 718 497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. All right. Uh quick one.
+
+[44:47] Uh just a recommendation someone has in. Tom Fisher from Lansdown PA, long time uh listener. Uh I'm looking to get a chamber vacuum sealer in the next month, and I've narrowed things down to the Vacmaster VP112 or the VP 215. I favor the VP 215 for the faster vacuum times, oil-based pump in choir operation, but it's huge, heavy, and $300 more. Is there any benefit to the home cook in getting the more expensive unit?
+
+[45:09] But look, both of these units are kind of in the uh sub $1000 chamber vacuum machine range. Um I have had nothing but bad luck with um any vacuum machine that doesn't have an oil based pump, the vacuum pump is just not strong enough. Now, that said, is it gonna seal a stake? Yeah, you know what I mean? It will.
+
+[45:30] Uh if you're out there to do uh like, you know, some of the hardcore uh like flash infusions, um, you know, if you're looking to do that kind of work with it, um you need a damn good vacuum in here. Yeah, oil based. Yeah, and so uh the one that that advertised itself as an oil based pump, uh I mean, but the problem with that unit, I looked it up, is that it's like s just in the middle. I mean, you can get a real good one from Mini Pack for like fifteen hundred with a real Bush vacuum pump in it. And this one's in the eight hundred dollar range.
+
+[46:04] I know the one I just recommended is twice the price, but I have this problem. I have a uh strange genetic disorder that once I get over a certain price, I'm like, God damn it, I need the real one. You know what I mean? It's like if it was like two hundred bucks, then I would just go ahead and get the one that was almost as good. But as soon as it's like eight hundred bucks, I'm like, oh hell, I need the real one.
+
+[46:25] You know what I mean? You know what I mean, Tony, right? I know exactly what you mean. Yeah, yeah. And so um But then, you know, sometimes you do pay for for yeah, uh matter of fact machines we've got for over the years is is phenomenal, and it was only until we discovered multivac uh and we spent a bit of money on it that it's actually lost and we we put it through its paces and we you know we we we we don't just use it for the with the C V bags, we're sucking stuff out and uh and blah blah blah.
+
+[46:49] And some of the others just get cloaked up and just boo bruised battered and and destroyed because of that. But the multivac you clean out, then you can start all over again. Yeah, I mean uh you know, so the main commercial br uh brands that are available here in the US, like the multivac, the mini pack, the uh Koch, all of these, they all use uh this German vacuum pump called a Bush pump. And the vast majority of the price of the vacuum machine is determined by the cost of that pump. Bush pumps are just expensive, but they have some serious cojones on them.
+
+[47:20] And they, like Tony said, you know, you run those suckers and they go, and then they get uh gummed up because you're gonna vacuum water into them, not directly, but in the form of vapor, it's gonna contaminate it. And you just run those suckers and clean them out, and then they're good as new again. So you know, I don't know if the lesser vacuum pump, even if it's an oil-based pump, I mean, when it's brand new, it'll get down to the same vacuum levels as the bush, but the bush is like the time X of uh of uh you know vacuum pumps. That sucker just takes a lick and it keeps on ticking. There's a reason why all of the big companies use it.
+
+[47:57] And there's no way that a sub-1,000 chamber vacuum machine is gonna have a bush pump in it, right? And so what they're doing is and the rest of it, I mean, programming is great, nice seal bars, it's all fantastic, it's all great. Uh but uh what you're paying for with the more money is the awesome vacuum pump. Um, you know, the the rest of it, you know, isn't you know I'm sure it won't crush under its own vacuum. You know what I mean?
+
+[48:20] But uh so I would definitely go for it for occasional use. I would get the oil-based one. Uh you're gonna be, I think, less than satisfied with one that's not uh not oil-based. You could, if you're like me, rip the vacuum pump out of the other one and install a real oil-based pump as a separate thing, but now you're talking about spending extra money, time, and more space on your counter. Have you used a gastrovac?
+
+[48:42] Yeah. What do you think? Uh okay. I'm not a not a fan of the Gastrovac because theoretically it's meant to do kind of vacuum um vacuum frying, so it's built around a vacuum fryer, but uh its vacuum pump is weak. You know what I mean?
+
+[48:59] Compared now, you can hook the gastrovac up to the vacuum pump in a multi-vac, set the programming to be right, and you'd be damn good. The other thing is that um the Gastrovac, by the way, is uh is a modified pressure cooker with an acrylic lid and it goes to a vacuum pump and it lowers the pressure on the inside. So you could do infusions in oil or frying stuff like that. But the vacuum pump is just not that good. And that vacuum pump has no way to exhaust the water very well that you're sucking into it, so it gets bogged down very quickly.
+
+[49:26] Needs a cold trap. So, you know, I for Wiley once I did a test where I ran a coal I ran a uh a line, I I bypassed their vacuum, went directly into my vacuum pump, because I I use oil-based refrigerator vacuum pumps that's just like walk around vacuum pumps. Uh, you know, the ones that refrigeration technique technicians use uh because they're pretty cheap and you can fill the oil really quickly, they're easy to get to. Uh, and uh and used a liquid nitrogen coal trap, and then I got it to work, but as comes from the factory, I don't s I don't and and even when using it as infusion, I don't see why you wouldn't just use your vacuum machine. I mean, what do you do you have a good use for it?
+
+[50:02] Yeah, I mean we found that that we just just even with no heat, just kind of infusing the cook almost cold infusing the the the uh the cordials and stuff like that. But why not just use your chamber vac? Just because it's bigger, I think that's the only reason. Yeah. Because you can do like kind of two two to you know two to four liters in there rather than kind of having to keep putting things in and out and kind of closing it.
+
+[50:23] Well you know what, you know what I uh what what you should do I did once is just uh take and build a uh like a Lexan uh a Lexan lid for like a giant stock pot, and then you could just go ape ape shit, hook it up to a vacuum machine, and uh just go. Okay. Yeah. I did that once for for Wiley, like way back in the day before anyone had anything, and I've done it occasionally for myself when I'm like uh I use the Gastrovac pod action uh pot when I'm doing uh plaster casting. Because I'll I'll use it to de-aerate uh plaster, but you can probably go for that and buy like the large um basically de-aerators for model casting people because plaster shops use them and plastics shops use them to de-aerate resins and plaster before they pour them into molds, and they have some big pots.
+
+[51:11] And since your food's not gonna be directly in it, it's gonna be inside of another container in there. Yeah, who cares? You know, like what it's made out of. I think they're made out of probably like you know, plastic and aluminum or something like that. But I mean who who cares?
+
+[51:23] You know what I mean? The food's not gonna touch it, and then just make sure you got a good enough vacuum pump on it. Alright. Oh, our our pizza is showing up. Awesome.
+
+[51:33] So, uh, we got another we have you know, we have a we have uh some fans in Bergen, Norway, which I enjoy. Wow. Yeah, Norway. Out of Norway. Yeah.
+
+[51:41] I have uh have I Jack, have I already told my one Swedish joke on the air? Uh I don't think so. No? No, maybe I just want to hear it again though. Oh, you want to hear it again?
+
+[51:49] I only have one Swedish joke, and I use it to taunt Nils, my you know, longtime co-worker and and good friend, who's now back with Marcus Samuelson running all of his uh restaurant stuff. So uh, and only Swedes and Norwegians will get this one. Uh hey Tony, what's uh what's a Swede? It's uh a root vegetable. No, no, that's only in England.
+
+[52:10] What what's what's okay? What's a Swedish person? What's a Swedish person? You don't know? A Norwegian without the oil money.
+
+[52:19] Boom! Yeah. Studio audience like that one. Yeah, Norwegians love that one. Anyway, okay.
+
+[52:27] Hopefully, I haven't already told that one too many times on the radio. But you know, if if you have a if you have a like a Sweden Norway joke, you gotta pull it out every once in a while. I have no pony in that race, so it's like I can say whatever I want. Okay. Uh anyway, Arnie Skog from old uh from uh uh Arny Skog Olsen from Bergen Norway writes in and says, big fan of the radio show.
+
+[52:44] Uh highlight of his week and keep up the good work, you know. I hope you have a better week than having this be the highlight. Um I'm ac I'm actually your second listener from Bergen Norway. However, I'm writing you from Brooklyn as I'm here for a few days. I might even go to see you at Roberta's this Tuesday.
+
+[52:59] I don't know if he's in the audience, uh, because I don't know what he looks like. Uh audience. I I don't know if he's eating pizza out in the back, is what I mean. Is Indy Jesus on today, by the way? I don't think so.
+
+[53:08] He may He switched off Tuesdays. I saw him here the other day on a Sunday. Yeah. Anyway, okay. Uh anyway.
+
+[53:15] Uh New York City is great. I went with a colleague of mine. We're art critics to Booker and Dax, our bar. Uh I'm sorry I missed you. Uh we loved it, especially the gin and juice.
+
+[53:24] Gin and juice is a good drink. Uh really good drink. I like that drink. Uh, we went back a couple days later to have awesome whole pork button oysters at Momafuku Sam bar next door. Awesome.
+
+[53:33] A couple questions. We're gonna get calcium hydroxide like pickling lime in New York City. For some reason it's impossible to get uh in Norway. eBay works, but shipping is really expensive, and I'm here now. So by the way, I made rye tortillas, which is I have a recipe for on my blog, using sodium carbonate made by heating sodium bicarbonate, which worked, but the carbonate had no uh not such agreeable flavor to my palate.
+
+[53:54] Still awesome. Thanks for the Nyx Damal post on your blog from way back in the day. Yes, uh go to to get that stuff, go to Calustian's uh 123rd Street and Lex between 28th and 29th Street. Fantastic place for all your general weird spice news. Good place, right?
+
+[54:08] They have it, or at least they should have it. If they don't have it, it goes under a bunch of different names. Slaked lime, uh calcium hydroxide pickling lime. If you want to get the Thai version of lime paste in red or white, go to Bangkok Grocery on 104 Moscow. Moscow is in uh kind of Little Italy Chinatown area, uh over by where the five points district used to be, but call them ahead because sometimes they're out.
+
+[54:30] If you want actual cow from Mexico, go to El Tepeek Grocery on Lexington Avenue and like 103rd Street, and while you're there, stop by Kitchen Arts and Letter, the greatest cookbook store in the United States. Um anyway, yeah. Uh also uh an interesting question in same same same caller. On uh, you know, Lutfisk, have you ever had it? Lutfisk.
+
+[54:52] Lutfisk, it's the fish, it's the fish that it's like you take stockfish, uh, which is you know the one that's air-dried without the salt, and then you soak it in lye, and or you rehydrate it a little bit, then you soak it in lye, then you wash the lye out, and it turns all gelatinous and funky. No had that. It's kind of like a well-known thing that everyone who's not from there doesn't like. It's kind of like a slippery I haven't actually had it, but uh uh Harold McGee, uh our mutual friend Harold McGee, who's now in China, uh uh uh, you know, introduced me to a recipe for lye curing eggs really quickly. And so Nils and I did a uh a fake loot fisk where the egg was loot fisk flavored and the fish was just kind of cured regular fish.
+
+[55:31] It was good. Uh I liked it. Anyway, uh so this is for a weird uh dish, wondering whether you could do it. Long introduction to this, that he calls Lute, which means like lie, right? So Lütfisk is like lye fish.
+
+[55:44] And I can't pronounce the second part of it, but Lute Pinic jot. I don't know. Uh so this uh idea was proposed by a friend of mine. So uh he goes on to describe Lutfisk, a very old traditional Norwegian dish made from dry cod with lye. Uh but there's this other dish that is really famous there called Pin Pinic Yot, which I can't pronounce, which is the whole side of lamb, salted and dried, uh sometimes smoked, cut along the ribs to make sticks of meat, rehydrated for 24 hours to take the salt out, and then steamed until the salt uh till the meat falls off the bone.
+
+[56:18] This guy really likes it. So what he's wondering is, uh, and his Italian friend came up with this idea is can you make that stick meat with a lye solution, same way that you do loot fisk. Uh and basically he's wondering what happens to the fat. Will it turn to soap? Will it saponify with the calcium uh hydroxide or with lye or with other uh alkaline?
+
+[56:38] Uh and uh yes, I think it will. Yes. But the question is like how how long how long? I mean, I've tested it with chicken and like a little bit of chicken, and I've boiled chicken with uh calcium hydroxide and it tastes good in small amounts. But if you it look, apparently I did some research, and in Finland, uh if you if you overcure uh the Luthfisk uh there, they have a word for it called uh soap fish because you saponify the fats.
+
+[57:04] And if you think about it, the cod that you're using or whatever, ling or whatever you're using in Norway to make your Luthfisk is a very lean fish. And so there's very little fat to saponify in that fish. And so you typically don't do it on really kind of oily, oily fish. Uh so I would be wary. Uh I would use very lean cuts of uh meat, and uh I would not necessarily soak it in as high a solution or for as long, but you will get the tenderizing effect.
+
+[57:32] Look, alkaline tenderization is something that's used in China, for instance, with uh al alkaline solutions in meat to get really soft kind of meat textures in beef that's kind of cut thin, marinated uh in like a baking soda solution or lye solution, not lye, but uh alkaline solution, and then cooked. And they the you know, the the basic principle is that uh that the the uh the alkaline solution weakens the protein bonds and so therefore makes it um uh softer. Right. Uh and so it'd be interesting to try. A little bit of saponification is uh good and like lends some of the characteristic flavor to things like tortillas, but a lot of saponification equals soap.
+
+[58:09] And so uh it wouldn't necessarily be uh good. But anyway, uh Arnie, I I hope you try it. I hope you stop by Roberta's. Uh they wanted some recommendations, or someone else actually wanted some recommendations of places to eat. But uh Jack, do we have another show coming on the air?
+
+[58:27] We gotta wrap it up right now. Oh, all right. Listen, Tony, thanks for coming in. Pleasure. Uh anyone who's anyone who's in London, if you don't go to one of Tony C's bars, uh, you are a fool.
+
+[58:40] Cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information.
+
+[59:10] Thanks for listening. You got my head all twisted. And I just can't get it straight. Oh, you dare to do that.
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+[0:03] Broadcasting live from Roberta's in Bushwick, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live on the Heritage Radio Network in the back of Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn, from approximately 12 to 1245 every Tuesday. Joined again in the studio with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez.
+
+[0:35] How are you doing, Nastasha? Yeah. Strong. Yeah, so last week, uh, while I was here chilling with uh Tony Kinayaro in the in the studio, Nastasha was pretending to be me in Orlando, Florida, with the Bukey people, makers of our favorite rotovap. How'd that go?
+
+[0:53] Good. I get all the cool trips to Orlando. Dave goes to Sweden and Berlin. I know you're just the lucky one, aren't I? Lucky one.
+
+[0:59] Yeah, well, I told you you're supposed to uh get a free trip to uh Switzerland. For those of you that don't know, Nastasha is a uh a Switzerland lover. Italian Swiss lover. That they're German Swiss. It does not interest me.
+
+[1:10] So are you now insulting Bukey, who like may give us the I'm not, they love me. Alright. Call me all the Equations 2, 718497-2128. That's 718 497-2128. And Nastasha writes here that today is the Indy Jesus.
+
+[1:26] It's not Indie Jesus. I know Indy. Well, we haven't seen him in a while, but there's another one. No, no, he he he's here. He just doesn't work on Tuesdays.
+
+[1:31] I saw him on Sunday. This is like Indie Apostle. Right here, he's like a fail sh uh pale, pale shadow of the real Indie Jesus. That's a real nice dude. Oh yeah.
+
+[1:41] No, we're not saying he's bad. I'm not saying he's a bad human being. I'm saying he's a pale shadow of Indy Jesus and his Jesusness. That's all. That's all I'm saying.
+
+[1:49] Uh another note before we move on to more germane issues. Uh today, Nastasha tells me is the first day of spring. Uh, which is interesting that she cares about that because for those of you that are ever gonna meet Nastasha, never say to her that the weather is nice out. Never. It's not that she hates bad weather like I do.
+
+[1:59] I actually hate bad we uh good weather rather. I hate the sun, I hate everything about it. I'd be a cave uh dwelling uh troglown diet if I could. But uh Nastasha likes uh nice weather, but hates people in nice weather. Yeah.
+
+[2:17] True? I hate when they're happy. Yeah. You want to explain that for the folks? No, I just don't, I just don't like how people associate weather with their happiness, their level of happiness and productivity.
+
+[2:29] That's really deep. She's like, that person said it was nice out so that they're gonna have a go have a good time outside. Yeah. Those bastards. She hates that, right?
+
+[2:38] Yeah. What if they're hipsters? This is the worst combination of the thing. Worse, like a fair weather, happy hipster is like Nastasha Kryptonite. Okay.
+
+[2:48] This is from Elliot Papanow. I made corned beef sausage over the weekend. The idea came from Rob Levitt at the Butcher and Larder in Chicago, a place I've never been. I haven't been to Chicago in a couple years, though. I used to go to the NRA show, you know, the National Restaurant Association, not the rifle show.
+
+[3:01] Uh but uh, you know, budgets being what they are, I haven't been in a while. Anyway, uh the corned beef sausages were outstanding. Corned beef, potato, carrot, cabbage, cooked, ground, and stuffed. Um I did it the same way you would do a boudon noir. Uh served it with some sauerkraut, which is delicious, and mustard on a rye uh sausage roll.
+
+[3:17] Uh I think the dish would also work. It presented like Dave Chang's hot brown. Uh I had to go look up Dave's hot brown hot brown, as you may or may not know, is a very famous uh Kentucky dish from the Brown Hotel in Louisville based on kind of like a Welsh rare bit kind of thing, which I I used to love Welsh rare bit, which is just toast with like a cheese sauce over the top. You ever like you ever have that? Mm-mm.
+
+[3:37] Has nothing to do with rabbit, it's not Welsh Rabbit, Welsh rare bit. It's basically a toast with cheese sauce. It's good stuff, but it's like it's got like some white wine in the cheese sauce, so it's a little like van dude. You like it actually. Sounds good.
+
+[3:44] Yeah. Anyway, uh, so this is a take on that, but of course, because it's Kentucky, they throw a bunch of meat in it, so it's got like turkey and uh and bacon and whatnot. So Dave Chang turns out. I hadn't seen it before, it was in Lucky Peach. I go did uh I looked at the video on the web and it had uh our boy Nick Wong in it.
+
+[4:03] But the funny thing is Nick Wong was, you know, one of our great uh interns uh back at the FCI, worked at uh at uh Sambar, Momofuku Sam bar for many years. Fantastic guy. I think he's he th the video was shot after Nick left. I think he was just there to pretend to be Dave Chang to see if there were anyone would notice because he used to walk around Sambar with a hat pulled over his head and rush up on people as though he were Dave Chang to freak people out. Anyway, so what Dave did was to lighten it up by rolling it in a tube in saran, uh, like you know, like our meat glue tubes, like like or Mills' meat glue tubes more accurately.
+
+[4:37] But it was turkey with uh, I forget it was in the there's another layer, oh, country ham, which is delicious. Uh, and then uh he put uh gel-an set uh like a Mornay sauce in the middle of it. Uh fried it up, served it with a delicious looking broth. Anyway, interesting. So yes, you probably could do it that way, Elliot.
+
+[4:52] Anyway, second. Uh I sent Dave a question about smoking tomatoes in the past. I vaguely remember that. You remember that? Not really.
+
+[4:59] Remember I said you had to dry them out first? Anyway. Uh, and just read in the Wall Street Journal about the fatty cues, smoked tomato bloody merry. Have you tasted it or tried to make your own at BDX? I have not.
+
+[5:10] Uh in fact, we haven't done any sort of smoked anything uh at uh the bar. And the main reason is because I have a bunch of friends who are very well known for doing smoky uh drinks. I mean, we use smoke in the form of uh mezcal or uh certain scotches that have a smoky note, but we haven't actively smoked anything because if I smoked uh a syrup, uh Evan uh Freeman would come up to me and be like, smoking syrup now, what are you making smoke coke next? Right? Which uh, you know, I don't want to hear from because Evan likes to rib me anyway, right?
+
+[5:46] So I don't want to give him anything extra rib me on. And then uh if I did something with meat like bacon, uh Don Lee and also Evan Freeman would come up and be like, Really, Dave? Really? Really? Smoky bacon?
+
+[5:58] Anyway, so uh I'm sure it's delicious. I haven't tasted it, I would love to taste it, but it's not something I can put on the bar menu without having a bunch of my friends come down on me like a ton of bricks. What do you think, Stuff? Yeah, that's true. Yeah.
+
+[6:09] Okay. This in from Andrew. Uh I was hoping you could talk about the possibility of using just Pectonex Ultra SPL for enzymatic peeling. Uh Pectinex Ultra SPL is the magical enzyme that we use that you can get from modernistpantry.com. Anyway, it uh it eats any kind of pectin and hemicellulose.
+
+[6:28] I use it for French fries, I use it for enzymatic peeling, which we're about to talk about in a minute. I use it to clarify all of our juices. Anyway, I believe rec uh uh I believe I recall uh reading or hearing that a thousand grams of water, aka a liter, uh a thousand grams of water, uh, and three grams of pectinx uh solution um water mixed with three grams of pectinex was sufficient if a 12 hour refrigerated soak is used basically to peel fruit enzymatically to get rid of the membranes. Alright? I peeled my citrus and vacuum sealed it using a chamber sealer uh in a thousand grams, put three uh thousand grams of water, three grams pectanex, and let it soak for twelve hours.
+
+[7:02] When I came back, most of the pith was a gooey texture, easily washed away. Unfortunately, the membrane between the segments was still intact and needed to be carefully removed. The exposed portion of the membrane was mostly dissolved. In the future, if just using pectanex, I will need to s uh will I need to separate each segment or is there another time saving method? I bagged a mixture of Caracera oranges, uh, Rio Star grapefruit, blood tangerine, key shoe mandarin, and mini oletangelo.
+
+[7:26] All had similar results, but some are more easily peeled. Uh thanks to the great show, and I'll be in New York this summer and plan on hitting up Booker and Dex. Okay. Uh yes, Pectenex Ultra SPL is all you need. Uh but and you actually don't even need a vacuum sealer for this guy.
+
+[7:38] Uh your main mistake, and you don't even need to soak it that long, and it doesn't need to be in the fridge. In fact, it's gonna act longer, act faster if you just uh keep it out. We usually keep ours uh, you know, at in in warm room temperatures so the enzyme uh acts faster. Um that's just what we do. Um now I mean you can use a vacuum to get it into the pith faster, but you do need to separate out the segments.
+
+[8:00] Even with a vacuum, if you put a whole peeled uh citrus in a bag, uh it's not gonna penetrate into the inner membranes. It's just not. Uh and then by the time you broke them apart, it just never seems to work as well. So, what you want to do, it might eat through one membrane. You want to break them into as small segments as you can without breaking the actual segments apart, or without actually cutting into uh the vesicle.
+
+[8:22] So grapefruits are fairly easy. The hard ones are things like pomelo, uh, and those you just kind of split it in half and then in quarters, and there's so much pith in a pomelo that a lot of times you can eat between it as long as you break it into smaller pieces and let it soak uh, you know, for a while. I wouldn't, again, I wouldn't do it at refrigeration temperature because I think that's just going to uh just slow things down. Uh, another thing, you want to keep the peels, uh, try to keep them as whole as possible, put them in the bag with it, and it'll eat the white albedo away from the peel and you get these amazing uh peels. There's um I thought we used ice water, wasn't it?
+
+[8:56] I bagged it when I used a vacuum machine. I bag it with ice water so that I can get a good vacuum seal on it. And then I would remember to throw it into a hot water bath, warm water bath to heat it back up, melt out the ice and get the enzyme cooking. I didn't want to make it that complicated, but that's actually the way that's actually the way I do it when I do it. You can go on uh cooking issues.com, which is still up, even though I haven't written on it in a long time.
+
+[9:16] And there's a whole article there I did on enzymatic peeling with uh all of my procedures. I don't use three grams per liter, I think I use four. I use four now, maybe I use three back when I wrote it, but we typically use four now. You can never know exactly how good the enzymatic activity is of your batch depending on how old it is. And four always seems to work, and it's not gonna add any off flavors, and it's not particularly more expensive when you're using it in restaurant quantity, right?
+
+[9:38] Mm-hmm. If you're gonna do the peels, sometimes a toothbrush is helpful to scrape away all the uh melted albedo. That's a gross word, right? Mm-hmm. Yeah.
+
+[9:49] All right. Anyway, you wanna go to our first marsh break? Okay. Yeah. Our first commercial break, call your questions to 718497-2128.
+
+[9:55] That's 718497-2128 cooking issues. Come on, I give it a day, give it a Well excuse me, take a few minutes to mellow out. Big Daddy Cain is on the mic, and I'ma tell about a minimum limp of wild strength and power. So listen to the man of the hour. Flow and go to a slow tempo, and you know, sing whole swing low then yo, the show will go on.
+
+[10:21] So before, transforming the stage. I got the septic car, but I'm not elevated like a cartoon. I'm a real shooting lyrics like a hard pool. Across the crowd, the listeners, the spectators, so let's groove with the smooth bobarator. Sounds so smooth.
+
+[10:55] The B-I-G-D-A-D-D-Y-K-A-N-E. I'm good plenty. Serve a many and in it. Competition, wishing for an expedition. I'm straight up displaying.
+
+[11:04] Hello and welcome back to Cooking Issues. Alright. Now uh last week, because I had uh Tony here, I didn't make it to all of the questions from last week. So Nastasha Wrightly says I should go over last week's questions before I go over this week's questions. So from Joel Gargano.
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+[11:18] Hello guys. I'm in a really weird and interesting corporate kitchen, cafeteria, really, here in New Haven. New Haven. I lived in New Haven for many years. I was at Yale and I lived there for two years afterwards.
+
+[11:26] Nice town. I actually like New Haven. Anyway, uh feeding lunch to the company's employees. I wonder what company it is. Hmm.
+
+[11:31] Anyway. Uh being a trained chef and working in a fine uh working in fine dining as a cook for the past ten years. I took the opportunity to not only run my own kitchen, but experiment as much as possible and throw some cool shiznit out to the staff. I'm a bread baker, second generation, charcuterie, not DI we ups uh DIY obsessive and really into modernist technique. For example, I'm doing all my deli meats brine and then sous videos uh sous videes, both salami and fresh sausages, and they're all coming out killer doing charcuterie in an office building.
+
+[11:56] Weird. They all come through the buffet line pulling house made bread and freshly cooked and or cured meats and put them onto plastic cafeteria trays, walk to their high school appropriate lunch table and discuss marketing strategies. It's pretty hilarious. Thought I'd share that with you guys. The movement is all over the place.
+
+[12:09] That's nice, right? Good people are using I like that stuff. The question. I'm currently attempting to create some vegan desserts for select crew of the company using hydrocolloids. I developed a super good chocolate mousse, appropriate for an ISI, that's the whipped cream makers, using VersaWhip, which is uh either soy protein or uh uh milk protein, depending on uh what it is, whey or soy protein, and Ultra Tex eight, which is a pre-cooked scar starch.
+
+[12:31] Total success. Soy whipped cream, however, is totally failing. I need some help. What type of hydrocolloid should I use for this? Xanthan and LBG, which is locust bean gum, turn it into snot.
+
+[12:40] So Xanthan is known to do that. Xanthan is the snotty gum if you use it in too high a quantity. And I tried to use uh versa whip minus a xanthan gum and LBG, but got it a runny mess. I'm assuming that the chocolate works so well because it stabilizes the mixture while the soy milk does not. Uh if the fat content of this is the fat if the fat content of soy milk is messing with me, should I try gelatin?
+
+[12:59] Well, you shouldn't try gelatin if you want it to be vegan gel, that's for sure. Although not if you're gonna tell anyone, right? Right. Yeah. Uh if you want to try something that's like gelatin that might whip into it, uh they make a um uh carrageenin is uh agar, people use agar, but I wouldn't.
+
+[13:14] People typically use carrageenin uh for things like this, and in particular they use a specialist carragenin for whipping. If you're gonna make marshmallows called genutine. And genutine is made by the CP Kelco Corporation, and it's specifically a carrageen that's meant to be a gelatin replacer for applications like marshmallows, aka things that need to be whipped and hold their texture well. Now, uh I think I looked up, there's a uh, I think what it is is it's a lack of fat, is the problem, is why it's not it might whip up, but it's not uh holding its its whipping. I looked up a uh like an in-can, like a ready whip situation, uh soy whip topping that's available, I think, mainly in the UK, called Soyatu.
+
+[13:53] And luckily, their ingredient list was on the web, so I read it. It's organic soy milk, uh, organic coconut oil, organic fat uh fractionated palm curl oil, organic sugar beet syrup, maltodextrin, tartaric acid, carragainin, sea salt, uh, and vanilla extract. Okay, so let's break this down one by one. Soy milk is the main thing that you want to make out of. It's what you want to whip up, right?
+
+[14:14] They've added coconut oil and palm kernel oil, probably to get something that's fairly solid. I think you're gonna want a fairly solid fat, like a coconut uh style thing, like coconut fat mixed with a little coconut milk, maybe something that's gonna give it some body that is a uh a fat that is fairly solid at refrigerator temperatures because it's gonna give you more body. Um okay. And then um they're adding uh maltodextrin, and I wal sugar for for sugarness, obviously. They're adding maltodextrin, what that's doing is adding some extra mass, some body to the uh soy milk and giving it extra kind of whipping properties.
+
+[14:47] Tartaric acid is probably there uh just for flavor. Uh and carrageenin is there as the uh caragina is there as the gelling agent, which is gonna be a whipping uh a whipping agent, and it's going to be uh also something that's gonna provide some structure after it's been whipped. Uh I would guess they add a little bit of something called iota carrageenin in whipped because carragean is their blend, because it will reform a gel after it stands still. Vanilla's just for flavor, and they add nitrous oxide to whip it. So I would do that.
+
+[15:14] I would add fat, first of all, is gonna get you a higher whipping uh quality on it. I would have it be cold as hell, same way you would with whipped cream. Uh I would add uh some maltodextrin, and I would use some carragainin, preferably uh genutine, uh, in the mix with it. Uh and you should be able to get a good you should be able to get a good result. Yeah?
+
+[15:31] Yes. Yes. Okay. Uh, and by the way, I thought you think this is funny as that when I was researching it. Uh, one of the first people to come out with vegan marshmallows were using a vegan gelatin replacer from this uh company called Eames.
+
+[15:44] And it turns out that these v uh these guys, it was kosher gelatin, right? And it was advertised that it was vegan. Turns out the whole thing was made out of regular gelatin. And they were just selling it to all these vegans and these kosher guys, and it literally, like, what happened is like this uh woman who was making vegan marshmallows, she like quit her job in finance or law or something like that and became a vegan marshmallow maker. She called up the guy and was like, hey, are these mar uh is this uh gelatin?
+
+[16:09] Is this totally vegan? And he's like, Yeah, this vegan, what's vegan? You know what I mean? So the company ended up going out of business, and uh yada yada, blah blah. Did you see Ellen had a how to be a vegan on her website?
+
+[16:21] I did not. Yeah. I was on Ellen last week for St. Patty's Day, and uh she turns out to she's a vegan. She's a nice lady, though.
+
+[16:29] She seems very nice. Well, I I didn't mean it like that. Only you mean things like that. She's a nice lady, though. No, I just look look, people want it.
+
+[16:36] It had nothing, they're unrelated, they're unrelated statements. Like people always want to know is the person a nice person. Oh, Jesus, you know, Anastasia, she's just like you're a crazy person. But you know what's funny? I show up at the show and the producers, very nice, were said, uh, you know, Ellen, I was making alcoholic drinks, duh, for St.
+
+[16:52] Patrick's Day, you know, because I'm you know I'm at a bar, and uh they were like, you know, Ellen is not gonna be able to drink drink the alcohol because she's shooting two shows. She shoots two shows on a Thursday. And I was like, crap. And then so I had to go in, I was trying to make all these non-alcoholic versions that looked like and tasted similar to the ones. The mint, I did a mint drink, it's impossible to do it non-alcoholic because the mint turns brown.
+
+[17:12] Anyway, um, so she shows up and she's like, What are you talking about? I'll drink it. I was like, Yeah, Ellen! Yeah! And then she slams some Jameson.
+
+[17:21] What? Yeah, she's pounding Jameson, like, I'm kidding, she didn't. She didn't, she just took a sip. My kids, you know, who never don't know Ellen, I was like, it's Dory from Nemo. They were like, crap, you met Dory?
+
+[17:31] That's freaking awesome. Uh anyway, this uh question in this is uh this is a long one from uh Ollie uh, do you think it's collette or collet? I don't know, collette. You know, collette, call it, collette. Anyway.
+
+[17:43] First of all, I'd like to say how much I've enjoyed listening to your show over the past few months. I say months because I only discovered the show recently and spent most of my commute to and from work catching up with every single podcast. Well appreciate it, Ollie. Appreciate it. It's really refreshing to hear a cooking show from people who understand the practical application of science in cooking and who are not afraid of using ingredients and methods with other which others might deem foolish or which might foolishly dismiss, or both, maybe.
+
+[18:03] I do have lots of questions I like to ask, but I thought I'd keep things brief. Sorry for not calling you up to us. Do the time differences in the UK, the show overlap with when I'm on my way home, make from work making things difficult. I was wondering what your thoughts were on seasoning meat. Taking steak and as an example, I tend to uh season roughly an hour in advance, generously sprinkle the salt, uh sprinkle the salt, and occasionally adding a small amount of minced mixed uh minced garlic with the salt.
+
+[18:25] After an hour, I'll wipe off the excess moisture before cooking using the sear flip every 20, 30 seconds method. That's the McGee special, where you flip it a bunch of times to get a more even heat, and it's a good way to approximate uh it's a good way actually to approximate kind of either a rotisserie or a low temp cook uh using a regular thing because the the heat meat never overheats all the way through. It's a basically a very high instantaneous heat input, but a low average heat input. Good technique. Anyway, this method seems to work very well, but it does raise some questions.
+
+[18:50] Uh first, you have of course covered on your blog about how if you are cooking a steak C V'd, you should not salt the meat pre-sear unless you're serving it immediately. If you're only salting it afterwards, would does not result in an inferior flavor due to the salt only being on the surface and not seasoning through the meat. I guess I'm looking for further tests between salt cook serve and salt chill salt serve. Second, is the seasoning well in advanced method only really useful for less tender cuts or cuts that have not been dry aged for any serious length of time, which will contain more moisture, or should it always be used? I did notice that when Heston Blumenthal has covered steaks in two separate cooking shows, he's never really talked about seasoning as if he ha as if it had much importance, which I found odd.
+
+[19:26] But maybe I'm thinking it's more of an issue than it really is. Now, okay, now look. Here's the deal. If I'm going to serve a steak right away, and by right away I mean within a couple of hours, I always season the meat beforehand because yes, I do think it probably makes uh a better tasting steak. However, that it's not just seasoning and uh retaining of moisture, the textural difference and the color difference of a steak that's been salted a long time in advance, let's say three hours, four hours in advance, is not it's just not nearly as good to me as a steak uh than it would be if you didn't salt it beforehand.
+
+[19:58] And so um you know, the any advantage, which is relatively minor of salting the meat, I mean it's there, I agree, but relatively minor compared to the textual breakdown of the meat uh from over salting beforehand, uh I just don't think it's worth it. So I'm t I tend not to salt meat beforehand. Now, when I'm serving a steak, I almost always will slice, I first of all I salt the bee Jesus off the out of the steak, uh outside of the steak right before I sear it. Like you know, you know how in like uh a home cooked when they sear uh well, nothing when you know, when most people sear a steak, doesn't matter where they're working, they they put a small amount of salt on the outside. Uh look, when you're searing steak people, put an absurd amount of salt on the outside before you sear it because most of it's gonna come off anyway.
+
+[20:38] You know what I mean? So sear the heck out of it. Uh and then uh I find that the advantages of pre-salting way beforehand aren't nearly as great. Also, I tend to cut my steaks before I serve them and serve them in pieces so I can also salt the uh the cut face if I need to. It's not uh a situation, for instance, like bread, where if you don't salt it beforehand, you your bread is gonna be awful like the Tuscan spray, although Nastasha claims to like Tuscan bread, even though everyone in the world knows it tastes awful, you know, right?
+
+[21:07] Right. You like it, right? Yes. Why? I just like it.
+
+[21:10] Why? Maybe it's memory oriented. Do you is it the sallow, disgusting crust, or is it the lack of flavor in the crumb that you like best? Both. Anyway.
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+[21:20] Um, so the the thing is, is uh it's not the same as that. It's also not the same as when you're cooking something in a braise and you under salt it and then you don't get the seasoning all the way through and something that's long cooked like a pot roast or something like that. Because in a situation like that, you're relying on the seasoning penetrating the meat for the flavor of the dish. Anyway, uh that's just my uh that's just my two my two cents. That makes sense to us.
+
+[21:44] Yeah. Uh my other question is regards to New York City. I know someone calls some time ago about places to visit, and I did note down some of them, but I think you mentioned you would email a list of suggestions to them personally for bars restaurants. We're gonna be heading over what? True.
+
+[21:56] Yes. We're gonna be heading over for a week on the first leg of my two-week tour of gluttony. The following week, we're on uh we're on a Grant Akitz uh pilgrimage to Chicago for next slash Alinea slash aviary place. Uh we've never been. Uh I've been to you know, a Linny, of course.
+
+[22:08] Uh, we have a pretty tight schedule, but I thought I would ask for some feedback on what I've got down so far during my first week of April. Uh gonna go to Kaijutsu. Nastash, you're supposed to make your vegan face, but you've been, right? Kaijutsu no. That's the Japanese temple food place, the one that's or the it's um vegan or supposed to be really, really good.
+
+[22:25] WD50, gotta go to WD50, my brother-in-law Wiley, his joint, Mamafuku Sam, and Noodle Bar, and then if you're there, go to BDX. Uh per se. That's Tony's favorite place. She mentioned it last night. Roberta's.
+
+[22:36] Yeah, Tuesday. Although listen, if you want to see N D G's, this turns out Sunday at lunchtime. Sunday is appropriate to see Indy's I haven't even thought of that. That's crazy. Uh, and 11 Madison Park.
+
+[22:46] Uh, I think we could squeeze one more nice meal, and I'm basically left with going for one of the nice uh sushi places like Yesuda, Massa's way out of uh uh league budget wise. No, no, go to Bar Massa. It's it's it's the same and it's amazing, and you aren't losing anything. Yeah? Yes.
+
+[22:58] Now see, here is good information from the start. The rare piece of good. It's the only thing I've ever said. Oh, no, for N is Bash. No, but it is true.
+
+[23:07] Barmasa, same thing, less money. Amazing. Yeah? Yes. Alright, was that on your list that you had in your email list?
+
+[23:14] Probably. Uh, and Blue Hill at Stone Barnes. Um, as another place he's looking to go. Anyway, so what we're gonna do uh is at the end of the show, if there's time, Nastasha's gonna read out her email list. My phone is not recognizing the word restaurant in any I've never typed restaurant.
+
+[23:29] iPhones iPhones. Yeah, well, maybe next week we can start the show with Nustachia's reading off a list of stuff. Yeah. And don't forget to come to Booker Index Bar uh from Ali Collette, all the way from London, England. And so let's go to our second commercial break.
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+[23:42] Call of your questions to 718497-2128. That's 718497-2128. Cooking issues. The devil's devil has a couple food. My culture's cruel, cause this word is misconstrued.
+
+[24:33] Small countries exempt from food, cause leaders have different views. You choose. What mean the world to me is being free. Live and let live and just let it be. Let it be.
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+[24:42] Love, peace, and harmony. One universal family, one God, one aim and one destiny. Imagine life without a choice at all. Given a vote, without a vote. And welcome back to Cooking and Shoes.
+
+[24:53] Call your questions to 718497-2128. 7184972128. Coming out a question from last week. I can't remember whether I answered it, so I'll answer it again if I did last week. Stephen Garrett wrote in with two questions.
+
+[25:04] I think I only answered one. The second one comes off the tale of Rulman, that's uh, you know, Ruleman from Soul of a Chef, and who writes all of uh Thomas Kell not writes all of them, whatever Thomas Keller books, uh and also Shirkutery, uh Pulson Ruman. Anyway, uh leaving his stock on the stove, the heat not on for days uh on end, and heating it up to the boil as he needs it, and subsequently, Harold McGee, our buddy Harold McGee, still in China, I think. Uh what? Cool.
+
+[25:27] Yeah. Uh calling him out for unsafe food practice. So so basically Rulman wrote this article or this blog post where he's like, hey, listen, our great grandpappies didn't have uh you know a refrigerator to put the stock in, so we would just leave it out, and then the next day we would boil it again before we used it, kill all the nasty stuff, and then that's it. Go, come on. I'm not dead yet.
+
+[25:44] Come on, Grandpappy. Well, he is dead, but you know, anyway, not from that. And then McGee was like, so I think the Times asked McGee to comment on this. And uh McGee was like, Well, I mean, of course the odds are that nothing bad is gonna happen, but there are things that can happen, especially if it's not brought up properly, etc. etc.
+
+[26:03] And that and that basically it's not considered a uh a hundred percent safe practice to do so, and since most of us own a refrigerator, why wouldn't we put it in the refrigerator? And the other thing is is you're gonna get quality degradation as the thing sits out over time uh at room temperature, so why wouldn't you just refrigerate it? That's the point. Uh so uh so then he's like, okay, so if Ruleman was kind of mistaken about that, and I'm not getting it, that's what McGee said about Rulman, although I tend to agree. Uh so when the rules takes talks about meat and saying uh when it's cured, it's cured and nothing bad is gonna happen to it.
+
+[26:34] I.e. you don't have to worry about meat that's being left out uh if it's cured. Uh is should I take that with a grain of salt, or is salt stopping all the bad stuff uh that is in it? Uh question in from Stephen Garrett, Wellington, New Zealand. Well, well, you know, I read the post uh Ruhlman was talking about.
+
+[26:49] He was talking about, I think it was uh it was last week I was looking it up, but it was duck prosciutto, I think, or some sort of uh, you know, hanging meat that he just wiped with uh you know a mixture of nitrites and salt and hung it up. Uh and you know, certain sometimes mold uh can develop on it depending on the uh moisture content of it and the relative, you know, the the temperature and the humidity and the atmosphere, etc. And the question is, is is it true uh what ruhlman says that nothing bad is going to grow on that meat, so you don't really need to worry about it. Well, mostly yes. Mostly that's true.
+
+[27:20] Uh although uh I mean I would take it with a, you know, I would take it with a little bit of a grain of salt. Uh I mean, there are bad things that can happen to meat that has been cured. Uh the cured meat itself probably isn't bad, but for instance, you could contaminate cured meat and then it could have really nasty stuff on it that doesn't die right away, right? So, yes, uh, you know, and also it depends on whether you've used enough salt. So, you know, if you haven't used enough salt, then you haven't cured uh you haven't killed all the bad stuff.
+
+[27:48] So uh just the fact that you have cured it and that it looks cured isn't necessarily mean that it's always gonna be okay in all circumstances. However, for the most part, if you properly cure something and follow the instructions, then yes, nothing bad is gonna happen. But let's not forget that in ground meats, especially, if you don't get the proper pH and you don't use the proper salt amount, you don't have the proper amount of nitrates, that you could do yourself some serious damage. Let's not forget that the word botulism comes from the Latin word for sausage. Okay?
+
+[28:17] Uh yeah. Although that doesn't really happen anymore because people, you know, they cure things properly. Anyway. Okay. Now uh now I'm gonna find uh another question.
+
+[28:28] Okay. Uh Derek uh Bodkin wrote in with a question saying, uh Dave and Co. That would be you and Dak and the rest. Um is it possible to substitute eastern red cedar berries for juniper berries? Thanks for your help and insight and keep being awesome.
+
+[28:43] Okay. So uh here in the US, a lot of us don't have uh the uh you know, the standard juniper that we use in flavoring, which is juniper, I guess communis, I think is what it's called, juniperis communis, something like that. I don't have the Latin in front of me. Um that's the one that's used for flavoring, but a lot of us have around uh the eastern red cedar, which is I'm gonna make it up now, juniperis, and then like Virginia Virginianica or something like that. Sounds like Virginia, whatever.
+
+[29:07] Anyway, common uh, you know, it's a common juniper that's around here a lot. It's also used a lot as an ornamental. It turns out that uh the red cedar, the berries are edible, in fact, uh, and have been used uh since prehistoric times by uh Native American tribes living in America uh as uh b both the the leaves, the berries, and the bark uh have been used in various uh decoctions and teas um uh for various various you know ailments that you might have. So, yes, i they can be used. The wood apparently is also quite nice.
+
+[29:38] Uh but the downside is that it doesn't have the same powerful aromatic quality that uh the traditional juniper is, so it's not gonna well, it's not gonna be as baller necessarily of a of a juniper flavor. That said, uh uh, you know, if you taste it and you like it, then maybe you can use it in a way that's different from a uh you know the juniper that we're used to. You might uh again, I'm a big believer in um you know, it might not be as good as juniper at being juniper, but it might be very good at being what it is, the eastern red cedar. Do you know what I'm saying, Saz? Mm-hmm.
+
+[30:13] Anyway, so give it a try. It's not gonna poison you. However, uh I've read some sources that say it's mildly toxic, but again, it's been used for a long time. It was in my uh herbal book. Uh it was in a bun, it's in a bunch of the references I've read.
+
+[30:27] Um I wouldn't eat a whole boatload of them, and there are juniper species out there that are toxic uh to a greater or lesser degree. So make sure you have your identification right. Uh don't eat boatloads of it, and uh maybe try to find an application where it tastes um as good or better than the regular juniper for what you're trying to use it for. There's a great article in 2000, I think, it's somewhere somewhere between 2006 and 2009 in the New York Times in the gardening section. You can find it on the internet uh about uh juniper and which junipers to use uh and and so on and so forth.
+
+[31:02] Right? You like that? Mm-hmm. Okay. Now, uh Philippe uh let's see get his first name.
+
+[31:09] I don't know. Well, I'm gonna get his last name. Anyway, Philippe writes in uh a question about uh knives. Uh he's been contemplating picking up a Michelle uh Brass, which is the famous uh French chef from uh where's he from, Albrach or something like that. Uh Michel Brass uh shun knife for years now.
+
+[31:26] I've read many reviews and they're split half in half. I'm worried about the platinum oxide coating on the uh blade. It's titanium oxide, actually, I believe. It's not platinum, I think it's titanium oxide. Titanium oxide coating on the blade.
+
+[31:37] Do you have one and does it scratch easily? Thanks so much. Okay. Titanium uh titani okay, first of all, Shun, aka Kershaw has a bunch of uh lines of knives out that are uh associated with celebrities of one type or another. So they have Alton Brown knives, have a funky angle because Alton Brown is tall, and he can't cut properly with a regular knife because the angle is bad.
+
+[32:00] So he says, I can't use the Alton Brown knives, but I'm not that tall. Maybe Mark has Mark tried those? No. Mark's tall man. He's never tried one of those knives.
+
+[32:07] He should try one. So I'd be interested to know whether or not a tall person, whether it's actually helpful for them. That's an interesting fact for me. I could probably get him one. Anyway.
+
+[32:14] Uh Ken Onion, a famous knife designer, also made one, uh, a knife for those guys. It's completely non-traditional chef's knife. It has a very curved belly, so you uh you rock it as you cut it, and it's got like a kind of a strange ergonomic handle on it. Chef Andre Soltner, uh, international old school badass, enjoys that knife. He actually uses it.
+
+[32:33] Um, and then they did a line with uh Michelle Brass. Michelle Brass, his knife, Michelle Brass is all about aesthetics, and so the knife is really pretty, right? So it's kind of a matte kind of like uh like gun metal gray color, and it's got a titanium oxide coating on it. Titanium, the metal is not very hard. It's tough as hell, and it doesn't ever it it basically it won't rust, uh, but it's not that hard.
+
+[32:57] Titanium oxide, on the other hand, I believe is quite hard. It's used as a coating for drills for high speed drills uh and things of that nature. So I'm pretty sure that it's kind of a baller coating to put on the outside, right? The knife itself has two different grades of stainless steel, a softer stainless steel on the outside for toughness, and a harder stainless steel uh in the center for the edge. Um so it should be okay.
+
+[33:21] I mean, I don't know if it's worth the huge price tag. I don't think it's gonna cut appreciably better than the less expensive uh Kershaw slash uh Shun knives because I don't think the blade chemistry itself is any different. It might be balanced better, it might be made better, it definitely looks better than those other ones, but I don't know if it's actually going to cut better. The um the other interesting thing about it is that it's uh unlike a lot of Japanese Western knives, I read on their website actually, I went on the website, it's sharpened with a 50-50 uh bevel, meaning it's sharpened the same way on either side, like a traditional French or German knife, which means it should be fairly easy for someone who's used to European knives to sharpen it. Um it sharpened uh fifteen degrees on each side, so it's not it's fairly it's a fairly sharp, fairly sharp blade.
+
+[34:07] Uh I've read some reports on the internet saying that they are well very well balanced blades and that they handle quite well. Um I'm gonna go on a little bit of a rant. A lot of people worry about uh the sharpness of their knives, and they buy the most uh you know the the best steel, the best this, the best that, ceramic knives, all this other stuff. Um, you know, in the words of Jeffrey Steingarden, which I think I've quoted here uh several times, you know, knives are like uh puppies. They're always good when they're new.
+
+[34:35] It's only later that the problems come out. And I think the main thing about a knife is how easy is it to sharpen, how fast is it for you to sharpen, and how well can you re-sharpen it? And I know I've talked about sharpening here uh a bunch, but I'll say something I don't think I've said before, which is I would prefer steel that isn't quite as badass that sharpens really well and just sharpen the dang thing more often, right? Uh a lesser quality reed softer steel that you sharpen right before you use it is going to uh do a much better job in general than the super hard, high quality powdered, centered steel that you buy uh and then have in sharpened in four months. I mean, that's just truth.
+
+[35:16] What do you think? Don't talk to Nastasha. She takes people's knives and beats them about about their head. She's she's a strange lady nostashum. Yes or no?
+
+[35:25] What? True. I don't know what you're talking about. Oh, yeah? Okay.
+
+[35:29] We'll talk about it later. Okay. Uh thanks for answering. Thanks for answering my liver question a few weeks back. You're welcome.
+
+[35:36] Uh and then one more question. Uh my chef asked me to turn some already old blanched cauliflower into a puree. I was hesitant. So I pumped the florets into a small pot and covered with half and half and then with a paper lid. I slowly simmered the cauliflower until it's tender, but the weird side effect was that a lot of the cauliflower turned brown as if it were caramelized.
+
+[35:54] Or, you know, my art. Uh uh, it no, it didn't taste good uh even in the first place. Uh do you know what happened? Uh that's interesting. First of all, I I did some bunch of research this morning on cauliflower.
+
+[36:05] It looks like we'll have to wrap up with this, but I did a bunch of research on cauliflower. And did you know that in the biz uh they don't call cauliflower florets florets, they call it curd? Weird. I guess because it looks like you know, like cheese curd, I guess. Weird, right?
+
+[36:19] Cauliflower, by the way, your kids' favorite. Oh my god, my kids, I swear to God, you know what? I love cauliflower. And I was like, there's no one on earth that doesn't, unless you're vegan, that doesn't like uh cauliflower drenched in a cheese sauce, right? I mean, it's just it's just good stuff, right?
+
+[36:35] And so, and you know, my kids for a long time, have I already talked about this? My kids for a long time uh wouldn't uh eat green vegetables really of any of any sort. Uh well by a long time I mean still. They don't like green vegetables. Uh it's one of these demented things that's put in their head by the by I don't know, by other kids.
+
+[36:51] It's one of these like weird things that's perpetuated generation after generation. I loved green vegetables growing up. Anyway, that's me. Uh so I was like, okay, I'm gonna go get cauliflower. It's not green.
+
+[37:01] I'm gonna drench it in cheese sauce. Everyone freaking loves cheese sauce. And uh it was the worst dinner I've ever had in my in my life. The worst experience of the d the cauliflower is delicious. It was the worst experience of a meal I have ever had in my entire life.
+
+[37:15] The screaming, the moaning, the pleading, the crying. Uh and and ever since that, all that day, all I've ever had to uh say is threaten my kids with cauliflower for dinner and they're quiet. Call them the sardines thing. Well, my kid, well, Booker loves sardines. They they like some weird stuff.
+
+[37:37] It's like, look, it's all it's all mental. It does no when you fill the sardine can. Oh, I filled a sardine can, gave it to my son Booker, who loves uh sardines, and I filled it with cauliflower, and he opened it up, he's like, ah like I had had like I don't know, some sort of like uh I don't know, toxic, toxic, something like that. Anywho, so uh turns out that cauliflower, like all other uh, you know, you know, kind of brassica style things like cabbages, like uh broccoli, like um Brussels sprouts, uh contain a lot of sulfur containing compounds. And so when you uh you know, and sulfur, the chemistry of these sulfur compounds in food is extremely complicated.
+
+[38:16] And as you cook these things for a long time, uh various things happen. They get stinky, right? Then they get old, then you have lipid oxidation, and then it turns out sometimes I guess they can change colors. Uh I couldn't find, I didn't have time to run it down, and since McGee is still in China, I guarantee you McGee knows right off the top of his head exactly what's going on. But since he's in China, I can't call him to get that information out of his head.
+
+[38:39] Um but uh you know, uh some of the stuff that's in it, I was thinking about there's uh there's a couple articles like the non-enzymatic browning of cauliflower in storage. And uh uh what one of the culprits might be these kind of uh polyphenols that are in it that can react with iron. I'm wondering if you had any sort of uh if you're using a steel pot, it's possible that maybe the steel in the pot had something to do with it. Um in which case, if if it is something like that, like non-enzymatic browning that's happening or some sort of weird mired reaction, maybe in conjunction with the uh half and half that you used. A little ascorbic acid might make it better.
+
+[39:15] Uh but there's all sorts of very complicated uh sulfur breakdown components uh in cauliflower that can change over time, get stinkier over time. It's a known uh it's a known fact. You might want to look for reference uh to some articles like the volatile constituents from Romanesco cauliflower, uh the uh gluco uh glucosinolate and free sugar content in cauliflower, and the non-enzymatic browning of cauliflower on storage. But uh, haven't found a you know a hundred percent uh you know ironclad reason why it would happen. Uh the more I read, the more complicated cauliflower turns out.
+
+[39:51] Just don't serve it to my kids. All right, and before we leave, today's show is sponsored by Modernist Pantry, supplying innovative ingredients for the modern cook. Do you love to experiment with new cooking techniques and ingredients, but hate to overspend for pounds of supplies when only a few grams are needed per application? Modernist Pantry has a solution. They offer a wide range of modernist uh modern ingredients in packages that make sense for the home cook and enthusiast, and most cost only around five bucks, saving you time, money, and storage space.
+
+[40:17] Whether you're looking for hydrocolloids, pH buffers, or even meat glue, you'll find it at Modernist Pantry. And if you need something that they don't carry, just ask. Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you with inexpensive shipping to any country in the world. Modernist Pantry is your one-stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients. Modernist Pantry carries crisp coat UC, a modified starch that can be used in batters and breading to give fried foods an extra crispy crust.
+
+[40:40] I like that word extra crispy crust. Fans of cooking issues at place in order of $25 or more before next week's show will get a free package of crisp coat to play with simply use the promo code CI77 when placing your order online at ModernistPantry.com. Visit modernistpantry dot com for all of your cooking needs of the modernist nature. And that's been Cooking Issues come back next week's fish all you did got me on this corner. You can find all of our don't know where I'm at work.
+
+[41:25] You can find all of my baby cleaning in a slate you got my head all twisted and I guess can't get it straight fishes fish is but good
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+[0:00] You're listening to the Heritage Radio Network broadcasting live to the cosmos from the backyard at Roberta's in Bushwick, Brooklyn. Oh, you dead. Got me on this corner. And I don't know where I'm at. Supposed to meet my baby.
+
+[0:38] 20 minutes late. You got my head all twisted. And the guest can't get it straight. Vicious, fishes, but hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you live from Roberta's Pizzeria on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from roughly 12 to roughly 1245.
+
+[1:06] Gonna be joined today in the studio with uh Maxime Belay, co-author of uh Modernist Cuisine uh Cookbook. Also, oh here he is, he's coming through right now. I see him. Uh so I'll wait to introduce him. We're also here with uh Dave Hey Dana, what's your last name?
+
+[1:18] Goodyear. Goodyear from the New Yorker. She's just hanging out, but she's welcome to chime in anytime she wants. Yeah, put on a pair of headphones. This one's for you.
+
+[1:26] Right? And as usual, we're joined with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, who's sitting typing on her computer getting stuff done for the cooking issues machine. Am I right? That's true. Yeah.
+
+[1:36] Berlin. Berlin. Yeah. So uh hey Maxine. Here, uh pull up a seat.
+
+[1:42] Here's your microphone and uh your headphones. So uh Maxime. I'm doing well. Doing well. Uh Maxine, you were a graduate of what?
+
+[1:49] Of ICE? Originally, our Arch Nemesis, the FCI is at the same time. Is that true or indeed ISA? Yeah. Very brief since it's ice.
+
+[1:56] Yeah, that's our Arch Nemesis. But then move to uh what anyone who was hanging around uh in New York in I guess the late nineties, early two thousands, Jack's Oyster Bar, right? Fantastic place. Didn't you work there? I did, I did.
+
+[2:08] I I actually went to uh Jack's Luxurious Bar as a stagiaire fr directly from ICE. The chef left uh about two weeks later. And Jack Lamb, crazy as he is, gave me the head chef job. So it was it was quite a transition for a young chef. But a great I mean uh uh you know w I went I think once, but it moved across the street, right?
+
+[2:26] I went when it I went when it was on its original side of the street, and I think once when it was across the street. Yeah, I was I was there when it was still the um the little carriage house and then it moved to uh the old Makimona space. What was that on fifth fifth street? It's on fifth street. Yeah.
+
+[2:38] Anyway, fabulous place, great pedigree. Went moved from there to the fat duck, you know, the uh Heston Blumenthal's famous joint, right? Indeed. Uh and you were on the restaurant side or the development side and the development side. I began uh on the restaurant side and then they quickly moved me to the development side.
+
+[2:53] That was my you know my my calling all the the research and the and the you know great dishes that that Heston would would uh push us to create. So and then we're ta was tapped by uh Nathan Miravold to to uh you know you know be a part of the modernist cuisine dream team. And so, you know, the three authors on the book, of course, Nathan, who's been on the show before, Nathan Miravold, Chris Young, good friend of ours, been on the show before, and Maxime for the first time on the show. Well, welcome. It's so nice to be here.
+
+[3:21] Thanks for having me. And uh Dana, who again may or may not chime in, I don't know. Welcome to, is writing an article on strange meats. True or false. True.
+
+[3:31] True. All right, very good. Nice. So listen, call all of your questions in to uh seven one eight four nine seven two one two eight. That's seven one eight four nine seven two one two eight.
+
+[3:40] So how are you doing? Maxine was at our bar the other day. I loved it. Oh my god, you you were right. The the basil cocktail that you it's delicious.
+
+[3:48] It's so fragrant. Thanks. I appreciate it. It's a technique we do at the Booker Index, uh, which basically we just lost by the way, best new bar timeout in New York to a maison premiere, but it's good to lose to such a great bar. Maison premiere.
+
+[4:00] Anyway, uh technique where we smash the Thai basil with uh liquid nitrogen. And what what what happens is when it's frozen that that that deeply in liquid nitrogen, there's no sort of uh enzymatic degradation of the uh herb at all. And we can shatter it into super super fine particles even just using a hand muddler, then add uh liquor directly that prevents uh the enzymes because the enzymes can't really work and pack with liquor. You get that beautiful extraction. Yeah, it's like the liquor sucks it straight out, and then uh lime juice, the ascorbic acid further prevents breakdown by enzymes, and then shake it like a normal daiquiri from there on out.
+
+[4:34] But I like it. And the color is beautiful, but the but the the just the aroma is just yeah spectacular. So before I get into questions, it's uh and I hate to do this to you because everyone always asks every you know, this is the question I have to ask you, and if I don't ask you, someone will get upset at me. By all means. Well, uh so uh what's what's next on your plate?
+
+[4:52] Well, uh right now we're really it's been the book tour. It's been an incredible journey, you know, just sharing, teaching um, you know, every different technique and and and all the aesthetics that we that we went into creating modernist cuisine, uh, we're able to share on so many levels. It's just so much information. And we're uh by having this book tour, we're able to sort of unravel it and and and look at the different uh aspects that went into to its making. Uh but going forward, we've had many propositions and we're not totally clear exactly what what the the next phase is.
+
+[5:28] We m we we have a a little project in the in the works that uh will come out soon that's good the kind of exciting uh but that's just that's I'm gonna give you a teaser on that one then maybe you know at AV they make you send giant NDAs and where uh I uh intellectual ventures so I I I I am bound by all right all right well just you know dropping it there that there is something coming we just don't know what it is thanks for making me curious now and not giving me anything maybe maybe maybe off air my full intention. Yeah well you know uh by the way in case you have randomly tuned to this podcast and don't know what modernist cuisine is uh it is probably uh the single kind of greatest cookbook publishing phenomenon mmm of all times probably I would have to say of all times well that's very flattering. Yeah next to me like a pe look like for instance right Apicius is the only book on Roman cookery. It's not that it's a great book but it's the only book. Right now we have a huge uh a huge output of cookbooks and food related books and yet nothing that has ever been kinda uh attempted much less successfully produced on this scale.
+
+[6:38] It's amazing. I mean uh uh anyway the astounding book uh thank you uh you know the and the thing is is that even though I guess the go the going Amazon price is what about four fifty now five yeah it's it's you know it's yeah yeah yeah about four hundred yeah so it's not not an inexpensive book but uh as Nathan uh is fond of pointing out a lot of paper in that book. A lot of paper and very good investment per you know the amount of information you're getting. I mean if you if you if you think about it in its five volumes, you break it down, it's uh and the amount of work that went into it. I think it's you know, a as a sh as a young chef, as a as a as a passionate foodie, whatever you want to call you know yourself, it's I think it's a very good investment for your your your future creative uh culinary adventures.
+
+[7:23] But it's less than half the price per book of the of the El Bully books, for instance. Yes, if you're gonna compare exactly if you want to compare something. Yeah, and uh what's uh what's funny about to speak on such venal terms about it, but uh you know, everyone's wondering, well, you know, Nate Nathan, who has an unbelievable amount of money, an absurd amount of money, really, when you think about it. He's a ri rich man. He's very well he's done very well for himself and he's worked hard for it.
+
+[7:48] Yeah, yeah, yeah. He's got a lot of meaning, you know, multi-billionaire. But absolutely uh everyone was like, well, you know, this is kind of uh this is kind of uh one of the criticisms you hear is that it it's just because he has a lot of money, he's never gonna make the money back. But in fact, the book is good enough it's making the money back. It's actually become becoming on the edge of profitable.
+
+[8:07] And that that was never the intention. But you know, the f I mean we thought we would sell two thousand copies, maybe, and now we're almost at thirty thousand copies. And at that price point, yeah, we're we're we're recuperating the you know the investment that was made, and that's that's amazing. I mean the fact that it's actually going to be a profitable book, I think is the greatest sign of I mean look, success I mean, success in terms of kind of the impact that it's gonna make in the world. The fact that something can be at that cost can have that much money dumped into its production, yeah, right?
+
+[8:38] Yeah, which Nathan will never divulge what the actual number is, but we know it's a lot because I mean at minimum, you ha at mi bare minimum, you had at least fifteen, you know, very, very qualified people working full time for how many years plus then a lot more. Three and a half, you had a full team. And and then and then a lot more than the fifteen for a big chunk of that time. For for the f the final year push when we really had to get everything together, it was almost forty, you know, including all the ghostwriters and the the copy editors, and it was it was a pretty you know, massive team of of uh experts in you know in what they did. Yeah.
+
+[9:11] And so the yeah, and so f for for something of that magnitude to be able to break even just I think goes to show uh kind of how ripe the time was for this information, the need for the book, and also uh, you know, it's just I think it's an interesting measure. So one that's often not talked about actually in the when people talk about the book, they don't talk about that aspect of it. Absolutely. No, and I'm glad you bring that up, because it it was it was the i in terms of timing and and people being you know open to what this means, you know, that that that that merging of of of art and science, which is a beautiful thing. Um and it's something that that you know a lot of of uh classic traditionalists, you know, want wanting to reject and at the same time uh when you embrace it you realize that that each each really enhances the other and it's it's it's such a clean, beautiful relationship that it's yeah, it it was prime for that and people are responding that way.
+
+[10:06] And so that's that's a testament to the progress we've made with with with looking at the different roles of food. And and something else I think I I th I might have commented on this show about it uh before. I'm not sure. I can't remember. Uh if you haven't seen the book at all, one of the interesting things about it is um and this is something I hadn't expected before I was able to see it, is kind of how personal it is.
+
+[10:27] It's not uh in other words, it's not uh it's not the encyclopedia Britannica. It's not it's not a cold textbook. No, no, but by by no means. Yeah, I mean there's a lot of personal feelings, personal uh I mean it's it's some humor. There's the I mean there's there's a yeah, a lot of personal aspects.
+
+[10:43] Yeah, I mean it's uh great book. Anyway, so we have a we have a question on the book. Someone who uh read actually from uh Zymergy, the uh blog, I guess. Yeah, uh had a question regarding uh the Spetzel recipe in the book. And I'll read it uh even though it's addressed to me.
+
+[10:58] Yes. I'll read it to you since you're gonna know a lot more about it than I do. Uh I've attempted uh the modern squeezing sour cream spitzel uh recipe twice now with less than desirable results. So you're gonna troubleshoot this for the trouble. Let's fix this one.
+
+[11:10] All right. The issues are that they will not uh form into a shape. The first time I attempted them, they basically dissolved into the ice water. The second time I received a new batch of uh Activa YG, uh by the way, that's meat meat glue, but it's actually like a protein bonder. YG is the one that's made for dairy and protein stuff.
+
+[11:26] Uh made the recipe and split the batch in two. I then used a qu uh before we go on, why don't you describe the recipe first so that people know what we're talking about? Yeah, so this is actually a recipe inspired by uh by Alexanaki from uh Ideas and Food. And uh we really uh as part of our um uh beef uh uh cheek uh goulash, we wanted to have a a modernist uh special component. And uh and so that that was the basis for creating the recipe.
+
+[11:55] And it's it's a combination of I think it's cream cheese. I have to I have to look at the recipe in front of me to t to be fully aware of the information. But basically it's it's a dairy-based sp uh spetzel where uh we've we're using the the the bo binding properties of Activa YG. We also use uh an additional um uh element of protein. Uh the uh we use alb uh there's albumin in there.
+
+[12:18] And uh what you create is these very fluffy little dumplings that uh um uh after being set with that enzymatic process, then are uh nicely toasted in brown butter and uh served as a garnish for this for this you know very uncuous uh 72 hour beef cheeky all right and so the the proteins in it uh egg egg proteins I guess egg white proteins and also uh the the the dairy proteins the dairy proteins are being bound together with an enzyme transcontamination meat glue set and then uh poached and then toasted or yeah well well they're actually they're never actually poached they what you do we what we do is we uh sieve them after they've uh once once the enzymatic process is begun we sieve them into um through the a spetzla maker into uh ice water and you get these nice little dumpling shapes uh okay and then you and then you give them a final fry to to really make given that that textual contrast so the first time that red made them it dissolved into the ice water the second time uh received a new batch of the activa yg made them and split the batch in two used one quarter of the batch as directed with the same results let the other half set in the fridge for 24 hours thinking that it needed time to set up that was also not the answer. By the way uh protein gel made with activa once set if it's broken it's broken it's not a lot of it's a good one. You're breaking a gel. Absolutely because that won't work. No.
+
+[13:41] Uh the last uh quarter of the batch went into the freezer another failure. I can attest that I'm following the recipe to the letter but cannot seem to get this one down. I'm not sure if you know the formulation or not but anything that you could add would be helpful. Uh gelatin water, sour cream ricotta, whey protein isolate why there's gelatin too there is gelatin yeah yeah we went to give a give a maximum amounts of of protein capacity. How come you don't do a you know um how come you oh the the cold water then sets the gelatin and then the gelatin's cross linked by the YG so I would bet that they're not I would bet that you're not they're not waiting long enough for the gelatin to to get syrupy.
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+[14:13] That's right. That's a good that's a very good point. I mean doing that over an ice water bath until it gets that that syrupy consistency uh and then and then setting it directly into the ice water is is one of the tricks. Yeah I mean I know a lot of people like w for me like uh one of the great meat glue applications involving gelatin is my brother-in-law Wiley Dufrein's uh veg noodles and like quinoa chips absolutely and a lot of people have trouble duplicating that recipe and I think ninety nine percent of the time it's because they're not getting the the gelatin uh the hydration and the and the yeah yeah I mean one of the sad one not sad well one of the interesting things about a lot of these uh a lot of these techniques is they really do require as sometimes it is helpful to see people do it. Absolutely because there's a lot of like uh the hand in it.
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+[15:06] I know that you know like um Wiley also used to do very kind of a well known in in WD50 a well known recipe where he would uh take uh c carrot and cardamom uh I think it was carrot no I did carry carrot whatever carrot and then he would freeze it uh and dip it in a mixture of uh uh capricarakeen and locust bean gum to make his egg yolk. Do they make the yolk with the with the egg uh with the the egg white yeah the egg white was a coconut coconut like a fluid yeah yeah very famous uh WD fifty dish uh which we have in the book really yeah oh cool yeah uh but the the truth is it's actually a very difficult recipe. If you've never done it before, it takes a lot of practice to get those egg yolks to work properly. And when you're first doing it, uh, you'll get like one in eight will work. You know what I mean?
+
+[15:58] Absolutely. And then by the time you know you've been doing service every day for uh a month, you lose one in twenty. Do you know what I mean? But but there was always like the one cook in the kitchen who their job was to do all sixty of those every day, get them plated, get them away, and you know, they had the magic touch, but it really comes from practice. So a lot of these things take some practice.
+
+[16:18] Exactly. It's a huge amount of practice. Yeah. And and feel and you know, y exactly. So listen, call in your questions to 7184972128.
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+[16:27] That's 7184972128. We're gonna go to commercial break, be right back with Maxime Belay. Cooking issues. All right, so MG's nice. Coming back with cooking issues, Maxime Belet, caller, you are on the air.
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+[17:23] Uh yeah, hi Dave, thanks. Um I don't know how relevant my question is to your um modernist show today, but um I'm charged with making some dairy-free mashed potatoes for this weekend. Ooh. And um I've seen some recipes online that basically call up for like chicken broth or some milk substitute like soy milk or almond milk to uh stimulate the creaminess like that that dairy would to mash potatoes. And I was wondering if you had any um alternative suggestions.
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+[17:53] How how long do you have from now? How I'm sorry, how long do I have? Yeah, how long do you have to get the recipe together from today? Um I mean I'm making them Friday night. What do you think, Maxima?
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+[18:04] I would go for like an emulsion. I would do like uh with veg vegetable, I mean, if you really want the creaminess, you have to have some veg like yeah, vegetable oil base and uh I don't I'm not sure what starch you would use. I mean, uh you know if you were gonna do I mean you can almost get like uh a mixture of gum arabic and xanthan, like the tickled oil that we use. And you could do uh like an like an oil like a very heavy oil water emulsion. That'll hold as it dilutes and or as it's mixed with a solid, and you could get some of that you'll get some of that creaminess.
+
+[18:34] Then you could just choose a delicious oil. I wonder if you could do a slurry of the um like uh the the potato flakes, uh hydrate them just a little bit so and then blend in the uh the like a vegetable oil and make that your your your fat base. So I'm just I'm a little worried that if you don't pre emulsify it that it might break. It could, but this but the with the amount uh it depends on the ratio. If you're doing like the robuchon or like the very like very high percent, yeah.
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+[19:00] But if you want the the uncuousness, I mean, you know, even fifteen, twenty percent fat, I think the amount of starch that you already have in the potato uh will act as uh as a pretty good emulsifier for for a vegetable oil base. Have you tried just a vegetable oil base yet? I I really haven't even played around with it that much. I've just kind of started looking into it right now. Alright, well, first I would go bonehead simple, like we said, and just you know, make mashed potatoes and beat uh some uh you know, put o oil into it.
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+[19:26] I mean gently. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Oh yeah, obviously. Put it through like a I mean like yeah, yeah, don't turn it to glue. No, please, no true, no chewing mashed potatoes.
+
+[19:34] Yeah, yeah. And then after that, uh my next step would be to move into uh uh my next step would be to move into something like um like a tickle or like a xanthan gum arabic mix. That's a great thing. See, what about like uh does it have to be dairy free and uh completely like what about eggs? Combined with like an egg yolk and then when the egg is.
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+[19:54] No, eggs are eggs are fine. Basically for Passover and the last second, you like a snowball not a style where you just get that richness. Um, just no dairy basically. I think you know, yeah, you could go like old school, like you almost using the egg yolk like super thick, but like egg yolk instead of the gum arabic and Xanthan, just to uh multifier, yeah. So you're basically making a mayonnaise and folding it in.
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+[20:18] I mean it's uh it's it's exactly that. Yeah, I think if you're allowed to use egg, but just make sure you don't get the temperature too high. Exactly. You know, do you have access to a circulator? Wait, yeah, wait till the um potatoes cool off a little bit.
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+[20:28] A little bit. Yeah, but do you do you have a circulator or no? No, no. I'm pretty much working. I live in Brooklyn and this time, I don't even have a kitchen.
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+[20:35] I just kinda like it. But but if you're if you just get a seven seven, eight dollar digital thermometer, you check the the temperature of your potatoes right when you when you know before you want to serve them, and you fold that in to give it that, you know, just that that with that uh folding um you know technique. Uh I think that would be great. Yeah, but just do it at the last minute. Exactly.
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+[20:54] If you have a circulator, you can cheat and spread it out in the ziploc and go, but yeah, but just wait till the last minute. Yeah. Last minute. And if you just do potatoes, season them up, you know, keep them you know, starchy, whatever they are, and warm fold that in at the very end. Yeah, and use a ricers or or or or potato mills to have your your your potato base, and then at the last second you you you fold it in with the right ratio.
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+[21:13] And that's something where you just keep on adding in just to get the right mouthfeel, and you you just have to keep on tasting for that. Um another cool thing that we love to do for to increase the potato flavor as well. If you're using oil, that's a great medium for that. You can take the skins from the potatoes, uh the potato peels, obviously that you you you've uh uh taken away from the phone. Exactly.
+
+[21:32] And fry them in the oil uh beforehand that you're going to use for your mayonnaise. So they have it, they have a beautiful deep nutty flavor. And then strain that, cool that down, make your mayonnaise like that, and then you'd have a really intensely flavored uh and creamy mashed potato. Cool. That sounds that sounds great.
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+[21:48] What what kind of frying on that? Like like deep frying or just kind of like a few. Just in a pan, you know, and you do you have your skins in there and you you wait until they get sort of you know crisped and and and golden. You don't want to burn them, you don't want to get any bitter flavors, but just until you extract them. Exactly.
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+[22:05] You're just extracting the the some of those really beautiful flavors. Awesome. Thanks, guys. Good good luck. Let us know how it works out.
+
+[22:12] Absolutely. Do we still yeah, I will. Thank you so much. Thank you. Hey, do we still have another caller?
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+[22:16] All right, caller, you are on the air. Yeah, hello. Hi. Oh, you got an echo. Yeah.
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+[22:22] Okay, sorry. Hold on one second. Uh is that any better? No, we'll deal with it. Um, uh so uh I'm a current student at FCI actually.
+
+[22:34] And I had a question kind of related to something I'm trying to do for my menu project. Okay. Uh and so um two two questions. I need both to create food and uh large sheets, and also I'm I'm asking about uh edible threads, if you know of anything. Uh large sheets of what?
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+[22:53] And yeah, what was the Yeah, okay. So um, for example, I mean one of the things I'm trying to use is uh yuba which is easy enough to get into a large sheet but I was also thinking about using transglutamase uh to bind thin sheets thin slices of meat into large sheets. Yes, sure. I guess are you familiar with uh shibori? No shibori is a Japanese uh resist dyeing technique like a a very badass form of tie-dye basically oh yeah yeah yeah okay uh and so the idea is to is it silk screening or is it is it sil silk screening or is it so cleaning I'm not sure uh no no oh I guess so my idea is um taking uh foods and binding them using these resist techniques we actually weave thread into the fabric and then pull it tight and bunch it in different designs and then you dye it and where the fabric is pulled tight it resists the dyeing.
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+[23:53] Right. So the idea is to bind food and then it would then resist different cooking methods through the different courses. Either by taking like a sheet of sashimi, uh binding it very carefully and bunching it and then soaking it in a like ceviche bait so that it the bound portions resist the acid they aren't exposed to the acid and so some of it comes out as sort of a ceviche uh cure and then some of it comes out so is the sashimi for example. Okay. I mean looking for an edible thread that is fine enough to do that sort of work uh with something as delicate as fish but that is still edible.
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+[24:32] How strong? How strong? Like scallion scallion comes to mind as the classic thread. Sure, sure sure sure. You know what I mean?
+
+[24:39] Like uh like long pieces that are then you know lightly blanched. I mean that's the classic you know thing like that that that works. I mean I'm sure there's others. Uh yeah. I mean I mean you can you could do starch based ones.
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+[24:53] I mean that would be it consists of making uh a starch paper based on uh like maybe a a really good uh prehydrated tapioca starch uh you make a leather maybe a little a little bit of oil so that the the it breaks down in your mouth uh more easily and I think I think that might be but then it might hydrate a tough time when it's in in contact with the with the water yeah yeah it might you are okay so you need something waterproof, right? Which means that you're you're dealing with I mean th that right there is a problem. So now you're you're basically down to long long scale p plant fibers. Do you absolutely make that strong enough? Oh absolutely yeah we've done with with pasta we've done it where if you do v if you if you cut them just fine enough you could do a very uh uh a uh fresh pasta enriched with with about depending on the flour you're using five to seven percent uh vital weak gluten and bobs red is a really good brand and you could get uh you could get a very uh uh uh s sort of you know uh plat uh elastic um thread that would be you know very workable but also break down as you chew very easily.
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+[26:04] Can you hit it with RM to make it even tougher or no that we we've done that for the for buckwheat because there was you had the protein content but we didn't have enough stu uh uh uh of uh um of the the the the starch uh right so yeah exactly yeah, the bottom would be very work very well with the meat course too. Have you guys heard of uh um uh collagen thread? Oh yeah. Yeah. It doesn't break down so nicely though.
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+[26:30] In the mouth feels not so nice. Yeah. I mean, obviously, like well, think about it this way. I mean, collagen on the outsides doesn't break down as nicely as like intestine, for instance. Uh would be cool.
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+[26:44] That'd be cool. That would work. Yeah. Yeah. You know?
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+[26:48] Honeycomb tripe is an amazing, yeah. Yeah, or or like long, like carefully cut pieces of uh sausage casing. Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah. Yeah.
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+[26:58] And as as for gluing sheets, it's no problem. That's no problem. Yeah, that's stuff's meant to do it. Here's my one recommend recommendation. The only time I've ever had uh meat glue provide an off flavor in a dish that I've done was when I glued a um I I glued many, many layers of different colored fish together and then vacuum them together.
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+[27:17] Well no, but yeah, but so so I the first time I did it, I over meat glued it and I vacuumed it and I let it cure in the vacuum bag. And then I had I perceived a flavor that and and I but so the second time I did it I used a much sm less amount of meat glue, vacuumed it, and then before like right after I crushed it into shape, yeah, I cut the bag open, and then it could air out in the fridge while it was setting and then let that flavor come off. Yeah. But you especially with fish, um when I am butchering, before you put the sheets together, would you cut them across like you're doing for sashimi or along the grain to kind of provide stability? Uh uh any like thin, beautiful sheet of fish is gonna be absurdly uh delicate, no matter how you do it.
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+[28:02] Uh unless you're literally cutting um unless you're literally cutting in a big piece and then preserving the sinew along the cut, which is possible. Like I've you know, we've done tuna sinew is delicious, you know uh but you're gonna be tough getting big pieces that stuff you could you could you could hit somebody in the face with it won't break but yeah I guess if you if you were to if you were to like partially cure the meat um then you might have yeah I mean if if you give it not cure I would actually do a brine but if you were to do like um three and a half salts percentage you know to to water uh two percent sugar brine uh you might be able to get a a little bit more uh uh elasticity and and um I think structure uh to the fish. Yeah I mean the best way to slice unless you're gonna do some sort of special slicing is to parf par freeze it don't freeze it all the way. Just get it par freeze throw it on uh like a very high quality meat slicer and go directly in between sheets of wax paper and then keep them almost frozen until you're about to use them because once those things stall out good night. It's yeah and was the transglutamase still work while it's frozen or would you apply frozen if it thaws and it activates no needs to thaw needs a thaw in order for the what you what what you do is is because so when we when we you know when I was doing it I would take the the you know fairly stiff but not fully frozen sheets I would layer them uh and then as soon as the salt and the sugar from the cure hits them they melt out and then you have a a block but then you don't lift them again.
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+[29:28] That's it. You know what I mean? They're done. Yeah. You know excellent thank you very much and if you want to see a uh a video I have a video on cooking issues uh on the blog I think or link to from a Starchef's video I did where I did Mokumegane which is the Japanese metal working kind of uh you know technique and you can see the kind of in practice, like thin sheets of fish glued together.
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+[29:51] It's not what you want to do, but it might give you some uh visual pointers on how to handle the products. Yeah. Yeah, excellent. Thank you very much. Um I'm really curious to see how your your uh you know this all comes together.
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+[30:03] This is uh send us some photos. I will definitely uh send you guys some photos. I have a friend who does a lot of food photography who's very interested, also who wants to document it. So I will definitely send you guys something. Awesome.
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+[30:16] Yeah, excellent. Thank you very much for talking with me today. Thank you. So do we we have any more callers or should we take some email stuff? Let's do some emails, I think.
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+[30:26] All right, do some emails. Yeah, I heard there was someone, but I heard that which means we lost them. Uh okay. Uh let's see, we want I'm probably, you know, it's nice that we're getting some calls, which means I probably won't get to all of the email questions. Anything that I miss this week, I will try to get uh next week.
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+[30:41] Uh Michael writes in about nutmeg. Here's a question. I recently ordered a set of food great essential oils from uh Aftelier, which is Mandy Aftel. Do you work with her over there? She's like, we haven't worked with any works with Daniel Patterson for a while, and then that's uh Yeah, and she's good buddies with uh Harold McGee.
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+[30:56] Yeah, and so she has she's a basically a perfumer uh out of uh San Francisco or thereabouts Bay Area, and she does a lot of interesting uh stuff. And she actually has a line in William Snowman now that just launched, but I haven't seen it because I haven't been in William Snowman like how long. I still go. You know what I mean? I'm forbidden to buy kitchen equipment people, by the way.
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+[31:11] Like literally, if I brought another anything. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Right. I mean, anyway. Uh so recently ordered uh ordered a set of food great essential oils from uh Aftelier.
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+[31:21] Uh fun stuff, especially for those of us that don't have a rotovap. Well, the rotor vap doesn't make essential oils, just be clear on this. Rotovap does distillation, but not the steam distillation that is what happens when you're making essential oils. It's kind of a different piece of equipment. I don't do the steam distillation because I don't have a rig for it.
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+[31:36] Anyway, you guys have the ball or rotovap, the huge one. You know what? Come hang out. Let's play. You know what?
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+[31:41] The thing is, is like I say like a any anything I ever negative I I would ever say about these guys is strictly due to jealousy. Just straight up jealousy. All right. Oh god. Uh okay so uh one of the items in my set is nutmeg essential oil.
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+[31:53] I seem to remember from reading Soul on Ice, which is I guess Eldritch Cleaver's book, uh, that nutmeg was a popular prison hallucinogen with horrible side effects. So now I'm a little scared to use this stuff. Is there a chance that the hallucinogen is concentrated or conversely a reason to believe it was left behind uh left behind other other words not in the oil uh to make sure it's completely safe. Okay. Look uh the the compound there's a several possible psychoactive compounds in nutmeg uh one of them is uh moristocin is the kind of famous one uh parsley seed oil has a lot of it and if you go to Arrowid which is like the place where kind of uh mm thinking druggies go to put down their kind of mental thoughts on this is where I go.
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+[32:32] Uh most of those people aren't using nutmeg uh they're using uh parsley seed oil which has a high concentration of this in various cap capsules. Listen, uh that compound uh maristosin is uh is aromatic and it's actually characteristic of nutmeg so uh there is no way that you uh making a dish that you enjoy the taste of uh are going to uh get poisoned. The levels would be ridiculous. Yeah. Yeah people who people who typically to get hallucinatory effect out of it uh people will do things like grate a whole nutmeg or two and then uh kind of like somehow choke it down and it's described as the most vile thing that they've ever done in their lives and then like three you know hours later they start feeling some sort of uh psychoactive effects.
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+[33:21] This is not something that you would accidentally do. Uh you know, I mean, could you take that oil, uh pack it into gel caps, uh pound it and do yourself harm? Yeah. Yeah. Yeah.
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+[33:29] I mean, one of the problems with uh nutmeg is that uh so it's you know, psychoactive uh substances are kind of the you know, the the thing with them is is there there are certain psychoactive substances that uh that the danger level is fairly close to the psychoactive level, and I think nutmeg is closer than many in that kind of spectrum, which is kind of where the bad kind of uh you know rep comes from, because you know, if you eat uh one graded nutmeg, you're you know, you won't die, but if you eat like three, like there might be renal failure or something like that. So it's like and and you know, an order of uh a three is not a safety level that most druggies would be happy with, you know, between activity and death. Like it's not a happy number, like an order of magnitude is a more friendly kind of a number. Um but anyways don't worry about it. Like what I'm saying is don't worry about it.
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+[34:26] A little grading here and there. Delicious. Also, apparently, uh and again from Arrowid, uh the stuff degrades over time, similar to Thujone, which we're gonna talk about in a minute with Absinthe. And uh, in other words, so if you use nutmeg that's old, it's lost some of its principle. So, you know, even if you somehow are able to you know choke down, you know, that uh jar of McCormick ground nutmeg that's in your uh grocery uh store.
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+[34:51] It's mostly gone. Yeah, it's mostly gone. And you probably not that I not that I recommend it. So uh don't uh don't worry. Don't worry, right?
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+[34:59] Absolutely. Don't worry. No. Uh well, you might as well do this on a on a uh similar one. We have in from uh Tom Fisher and Lance Down PA, longtime uh listener.
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+[35:07] Uh first of all, he has a centrifuge questions. Let's knock that out first, right? Okay, cool. Okay, before we get to the food zone. Uh got my centrifuge.
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+[35:14] Good. I'm glad to hear it. That's one of all of our favorite pieces of equipment. Yeah, centrifuge. My baby.
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+[35:14] Yeah, you're on the cutting edge, by the way. Like in 15 years, many more high quality restaurants are gonna have centrifuges, and people won't think that that you're a freak show when you suggest that they go get one. It's it's coming to homes too. This is the next uh cuisine arts uh, you know. Really?
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+[35:33] They're gonna make one? I think so. I think they were very curious about it yesterday. So let's see. Really?
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+[35:39] Oh, but by the way, before we get to this question, uh yesterday was the ISCP uh I didn't go because I had a bunch of events I had to do, but uh they the I thank you. The uh the award ceremony, and last year uh Modernist Cuisine was about to come out, and I co-hosted with Chris Young, you know, with the one of the other authors, and uh we were I was telling him joking that next year if you don't win every damned book award, uh you know, it's gonna be uh a travesty. And uh in fact you guys won three. We won three. Including one that they made up for you.
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+[36:08] Right? Like profound what was it? Was it? It was uh oh god, it was like just inve invent like a future invention or you know, it's it was they were very gracious, and we were very very honored to receive these awards. Bad bad year to write a different book.
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+[36:23] Uh anyway, okay. Uh in the cooking world that is, okay. So uh especially a professional book and or one that purports to have amazing photographs, because you're just gonna get swamped. Anyway, okay. So got a centrifuge and spun me some strawberries, uh, but I have an issue.
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+[36:37] I tossed the strawberries in the blender, added two grams uh per le per no, two grams of uh pectonex ultra spl, which is a pectinx enzyme, uh for 500 grams of strawberry. That's you know, more dose than you need. You could probably do one in that amount, but two's not gonna hurt you. You just don't want to put so much pectanex in that it uh that you start it has a slightly fermented aroma, but that's fine. Don't worry about it.
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+[36:57] Uh blended until slightly warm, good practice. Rested ten minutes, good practice, ten to twenty, good practice. Uh, if you do something that's going to break down like bananas, you don't want to rest it any longer than ten because it'll start to get kind of brown uh flavors. Uh and spun for ten minutes. I would you don't say what speed.
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+[37:13] I'm assuming you have a centrifuge that'll do about four thousand times the force of gravity. Ten minutes is on the edge, ten to fifteen is better at those speeds, just because uh it will clarify almost instantly, but the puck solidity is gonna get a lot higher when you go faster. Okay, got a very solid puck and crystal clear juice. Glad to hear it. But on top was a layer of what appeared to be the same material as the puck, but floating on top like a vinegar mother, scooping it out, clouded the juice, but spinning for five minutes more, clear it up nicely.
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+[37:37] Is this result of air bubbles trapped in the mix? Yes. Yeah. If you have a vacuum machine, vacuum that sucker out, break it before I get the air out, no problem. No problem.
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+[37:45] Right? Absolutely. All right. I mean, this is something that you know Maxime and I do every day. And uh glad to hear glad it running all day.
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+[37:52] Yeah. Ours actually is acting up. I have to get a new motor. Okay. Yeah, it's nice.
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+[37:58] Yeah, yeah, yeah. Uh if you're using a centrifuge that only goes up to about 4,000 uh G's, the buckets really aren't it's not like a hazard to life and limb, but your motors will have to be replaced eventually. It's about a $900 problem in the one we have. Anyway. Uh now the second question, the different question.
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+[38:13] Uh absinthe. Years ago when absinthe first be first became legal legal to sell in the US, I bought a bottle. Uh and the maker seemed very energetic about saying it was free of contaminants like Thujone from the wormwood. It's not a contaminant, it's an ingredient. Contaminant.
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+[38:26] People are so crazy. All right. Uh it seemed all right. Yeah, right. Anyway, uh it seemed uh all right, but nothing to write home about.
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+[38:33] More recently, a friend got a bottle and was telling me about it, saying it was made from the original illegal formula. I said I'd like to try uh I said I'd try the Thujone free version years ago and laughed and said thujone free absinthe is like alcohol free rum. Thujone is what makes it special. So what's the real deal? Uh thanks for doing the show every week.
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+[38:44] Okay. So look, Thujone is uh another purported uh hallucinogenic uh uh you know psychoactive uh compound that is found in wormwood, which is one of the it's the characteristic herb from uh other than the anise taste. Right. Yeah, uh from um absinthe. Uh, you know, and all of the later ones like, you know, not later, but different ones like Preneau, not the regul the regular one, or or Ricard or Pastis or any one of these southern French, like I'm a I'm a small man in Marseille drinking stuff.
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+[39:21] Not small, but old. I don't mean small physically, but it's delicious. Yeah, it's good. But it's especially good in the summer in Marseille when you're sitting out, you know what I mean? Marseille is a great town, by the way.
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+[39:30] Yeah. Yeah. Marseille, fantastic town. I really like it. Anyway, uh point is that uh uh Thujon in uh there's a lot of research out there.
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+[39:39] The one that you should go uh look at again, you can get to it via uh Arrowid vaults, but uh there's a bunch of papers out there um where they studied old pre ban uh absinthe bottles and found that modern absinthe has roughly similar levels to uh older absinthe, that the longer that uh and that's not really high enough to get you cranked up on Thujone by itself unless you drank so much that the ethanol is gonna have you stumbling and falling over. So is there some sort of synergism between like the smaller amount of Thujone that's actually in absinthe and you know, who knows? Who can tell? But like most of the studies that have been done, quantitative studies out there, point to the fact that uh really what's happening is you're getting drunk. Uh and uh I mean and horribly drunk, especially if you're trying to see uh how much absinthe it takes you to have a thhujone effect, you're going to be plastered.
+
+[40:33] Plus there's the placebo effect, right? Uh the other the other thing is is that wormwood, uh thujone quantity in wormwood, and this has also been checked, goes down radically as it's stored on drying. So if you have your own wormwood uh or other Artemis species sitting around and you um and you then uh like take it right away and make absinthe, you're gonna have much higher thujone levels than if you take a commercially prepared one that you get in an herb shop that's been dried and sitting around for a year uh and you're gonna get a much uh lower quality of thujone but e uh uh quantity, but even so uh the numbers seem to indicate that you're not gonna get crunked on the uh on the thujone, that you're gonna get shellacked by the ethanol. Now, uh uh uh uh thujone is uh it's is it oregano or sage oil? It's one of those two.
+
+[41:17] Go look it up on the internets uh and it's super high in thujone. I'm not telling you to go take this. Right. But if you need to know what thhujone uh uh goes like, go get a proper dose uh response related, you know, uh relationship off of the internet's uh any one of these uh you know herbal drug sites has many, many users who have uh put this stuff in. Make sure that you don't listen to anyone that doesn't tell you um like relative quantities in different oils and also uh body weight phenomena, things like this, because you want to get your doses uh right.
+
+[41:48] And I've never I've never tried it. But you know what? I've tried other things that uh people like supposed have supposed psychoactive effects, like for instance, you know, uh when I was in Columbia we were doing coca leaf infusions with coca leaf tea. And yeah, and uh I've never done cocaine, so I don't know what what that's like. I I didn't feel anything different, but I had people who had a lot more than I did report that uh it kept them up at night, for instance.
+
+[42:10] So there was but uh but a lot of this extra energy. Right, but a lot of this could just be mental. Do you know what I mean? Absolutely. If you tell someone you're having coca leaf infusion.
+
+[42:18] There's an excitement, there's a there's uh there's a psychological reaction, which is yeah. Yeah, yeah. Anyway. Uh okay, let's take one more commercial break. Did we have time to take one more commercial break?
+
+[42:29] All right, let's take one more commercial break. Call your questions to 718497-2128. 718497-2128 cooking issues. She's a good old pal. She looks like water fellow and I and deep river blue.
+
+[43:31] Ain't no one gonna cry from me and fish overlap. Deep river blue. And welcome back to cooking Issues. By the way, I'm not uh Angela Gabotz, one of my favorite interns of all time, uh, wrote in from Nebraska, but I'm not gonna have time to get your uh question this time. I'm gonna get you next time, Angela.
+
+[43:55] All right, on to the last question of the day. And I really want to talk w about this with Maxime because it's something I I think that he's probably interested in. Steve Crendell uh writes in, uh you know, have you seen the paper, this interesting paper on uh food pairing hypothesis uh and it's called uh Flavor Network and the Principles of Food Pairing by uh uh young uh young Yill on et al. Okay. And it was a paper uh last year by you know by a peop bunch of people in a in a um out of a bunch of different uh institutions.
+
+[44:25] Uh anyway, so what I I haven't had chance really to have uh Maxime look at the paper. So we're not gonna talk specifically about uh the paper, more about just the general uh the general concept of it. Um but the basic concept of food pairing uh has been uh popular over the last uh I don't know, what do you think? The decade or so? At least, yeah, ten, fifteen years.
+
+[44:48] I mean, really, and it's something that uh, you know, at the fat duck you're exposed to a lot. Yeah, but the basic premise is is that you can get uh and it's controversial and Maxime and I, we've never discussed it together, so we m we might violently disagree, which would be awesome way to end the show. Uh but the uh the the basic principle is that you can learn something about food pairing, so get interesting food pairing ideas by looking at the actual chemical similarities between different food items. Right. And so uh what what happens is is there's large databases of uh what flavor components are in various different ingredients, and then those are analyzed and uh the fat duck was famous for which ones?
+
+[45:29] The w the white chocolate and caviar both had uh a very similar uh uh volatile components and it was very interesting. Was it good? I actually never had it. I knew the idea. Then I had uh uh co uh uh uh uh cocoa and roasted cauliflower, also both shared uh a compound, and that was a it was a beautiful marriage and makes no sense in you know in in sort of a traditional context.
+
+[45:51] But when you taste it together, you realize that there is there is definitely value to uh approaching it that way. I don't think is as it's as consistent and as secure of uh an approach that that people will will will presume when they're when they're really getting into this approach. The study, which you should read, is actually quite interesting. What they've done is they've taken uh a bunch of recipe databases uh and then they've analyzed uh the recipe databases to see whether when you scan across many thousands of recipes, uh is there more often than not shared ingredient the shared ingredient flavor components or not. A pattern right.
+
+[46:29] And in the Western uh corpus, there was, and it was correlated that more than the statistically random amount of recipe shared flavor components. Right. And in their East Asian uh data analysis, uh fewer than the statistically uh number of shared ones with and and but what it boiled down to the really interesting thing is is that basically what it is is that 75% of the recipes they pulled in Western cuisine shared a very small number of flavor uh a small number of ingredients, and those ingredients shared a lot of things, like butter, milk, like like a lot of this is very simple uh yeah. Right, and the six most common uh you know, Asian ingredients didn't share a lot of characteristics, and so because those things basically weighted everything out, and all of the other recipes, if you remove the most common uh you know, six to ten ingredients out of uh out of our out of our tool kits, then it's basically statistically random in terms of that, which is interesting. Here's you know, my personal feeling about it is that anything that gives you an idea that's gonna make you uh that's gonna g give you a good flavor then fine do it whether it's like throwing dice uh using a uh you know a a dowsing rod whatever in the hell it is if it gives you a good idea it's good uh but that you know nothing in the world there's no no chemical analysis is going to replace your memory your taste palette you you what you've done before like you might get an idea and then try it and then know how to tweak it but there's just there is no there is no substitute for having tasted a lot and having cooked a lot.
+
+[47:59] Absolutely absolutely and to to sort of you know it's interesting the the the um I guess the the parallel between Western cuisine and and and eastern cuisine and and how we're we're noticing the the the these correlations um what I think is really interesting about Eastern cuisine in this sense is that you know taking away the the sort of uh chemical uh balance of of a few few uh ingredients um is is the balance of flavor and and what I love about Eastern cuisine is that you you know you now we're talking about uh flavor I mean uh uh the the the tastes uh uh salty bitter sweet acid um and uh and and and and and paying less attention to this you know this sort of you know sort of artificial combination of things that that may have uh uh a synergy or not uh right uh and so if if if when you build a sense uh uh when you build your palate uh the balance of of flavors is you know b through practice becomes a very inherent part of your of your you know culinary experience and a lot of these things may be more confusing or or misleading. Right, but I think I think what happened what happens is is is with anything else. Look, the people who are using these kinds of ideas uh right, or you know, in modern schisine using new pieces of new pieces of equipment, new techniques, whatever. These are usually in general a very highly creative set of people and they're looking for inspiration. Like, and I've said this many times, like the the the fundamental thing that Farran gave us was the desire to look outside of the normal uh kitchen for our inspiration.
+
+[49:36] You know what I mean? And yeah, and that that's the thing. It's not foams or whatever. It's this it's this it's this intense curiosity and this uh uh you know love of learning. And so as cooks do this, they you know they're looking for very you know di you know di different and disparate sources of uh of inspiration.
+
+[49:54] And is is this idea of uh different chemic different chemical uh shared things could that be a source of inspiration? Of course. Sure, of course. Sure. Of course.
+
+[50:01] But someone who doesn't have the palate to back it up, doesn't have the experience to back it up, it will be confusing, as you say. And it can be a disaster. A horrible disaster. Horrible. Yes.
+
+[50:10] So why don't we end this show on horrible disaster? Thank you, Maxim. Thank you, Donna. See you next week on cooking issues. All right.
+
+[50:32] Oh, you're dead. Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network and the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information.
+
+[50:58] Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] You're listening to the Heritage Radio Network broadcasting live to the cosmos from the backyard at Roberta's in Bushwick, Brooklyn. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from approximately 12 to 1245 every Tuesday on the Heritage Radio Network. In the back of Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn. Nastasha the Hammer Lopez not here today, but we are currently joined in the studio with uh Brooks Headley, the master pastry chef of Del Posto Restaurant.
+
+[0:40] And uh some of you uh might not know, a uh longtime hardcore musician, true? Uh yeah. Yeah it's uh it's a very uh checkered past, so well I mean and present. You still play occasionally, right? Yeah, yeah, yeah, of course.
+
+[0:54] I mean you like you know, Austin the whole nine. What's your current band? Uh or bandzah. Uh it's it's it's called Crash. Crash?
+
+[1:02] Yeah. You've had names that were a little more less safe for work, haven't you in the past or no? No, I mean they're all pretty safe, so yeah. It's just words. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[1:09] And what do you what do you uh just words, I like that. And uh what do you uh what are you playing in the band? Uh I've always played drums. It's the only thing I know how to do. I did people that can play multiple instruments piss me off.
+
+[1:19] So I like that. I like you know what pisses me off is people who uh do like more than one thing at a time. It's like what the hell, you know. It's like uh I mean I I was never uh I was never much of a hardcore guy. Are you hardcore or just like what do you think?
+
+[1:33] Will you classify yourself as hardcore? Uh I don't know. I mean uh just hate classification like every band member ever? No, uh it's uh I I I don't know. I I don't even know anymore.
+
+[1:40] So uh people you play with, what are they categorized as? Um I don't think they know either. So uh yeah, so uh people who play multiple instruments, especially in in uh in any genre of music where kind of like how good you are depends on how much physical energy you throw into the performance, right? Which I don't know about your music. That's the way I was if you do more than one thing, it's like you're just not spending enough energy doing the one thing that you're doing.
+
+[2:03] You're just not you're not paying enough attention, right? Yeah, I mean, yeah, to a certain yeah. I I I go with that. So Ariel Johnson, our favorite PhD candidate at University of California Davis. In what depart here, uh Ariel grav a mic over here.
+
+[2:19] Okay. Uh I don't really know what department she's in. Uh yeah, she's gonna climb over me, folks, so you're gonna hear a pause. Oh, she's going back at me. Strong, strong.
+
+[2:27] Uh I really don't know what department she's in, but uh she deals as we we deal with her mainly in the in the area of uh flavor and uh studies of flavor. And uh her speciality on her piece of equipment is a uh very nice uh uh gas chromatograph that can do uh small volumes for food. Describe this crap. Okay, so um my home department is viticulture and analogy, but I do all kinds of flavor chemistry. Um but the GC that we have lets us uh separate complex mixtures of aromas and combine any amount that we want and then analyze their smell.
+
+[3:03] That's a gas chromatograph for all you fools out there. Oh sorry. Uh and uh and so basically uh what uh correct me when I'm wrong, but this what this piece of equipment does, and it's something that we all want, none of us own, uh what this basically does you take a sample uh and uh it's a s slowly kind of uh I guess the word is eluded or drawn through a long column. Yeah. Uh and the uh rate at which things are are drawn through is uh characteristic for each uh compound.
+
+[3:28] So you you will you will separate it based on how fast it goes through this column. True or false? True. Definitely true. Right.
+
+[3:35] Yeah, so you start with a complex mixture and each component interacts differently with the column and then it loses it in nice order. Right. And then how do how does it how do you check then? This is for people out there. How do you then check how much of that compound uh is there as it goes through?
+
+[3:50] Well, we have a detector called a mass spectrometer. Yeah. That uh that shows the amount of each compound as a peak and the area under the peak is related to concentration. All right. So now all you folks who don't already know this, which most of our listeners probably do, but if you don't, when you're watching the CSI Miami and they say uh do they still have that show?
+
+[4:09] Uh I don't have a TV. I don't know. Anyway, uh so anyway, so uh uh when they do that, they're like, ah G C mass spec. That's what they're talking about. Gas chromatograph, and then through a mass spectrometer.
+
+[4:20] But uh the cool thing about Ariel's one is that you can uh true or false, you can bottle the crap and sniff it yourself when you're done, right? Yeah, we uh we use liquid CO2 to condense everything down and remix it and then smell it. Man, man, man, meh, man. Liquid CO2. CO2 for uh liquid CO2 for all of you guys out there is like one of the world's uh great solvents, and it's also uh relatively uh nice and uh clean, simple and friendly to use in a in a lab, assuming you have the equipment.
+
+[4:46] Yes? Yes. Yeah. Also does very little to uh degrade it's it's fairly neutral and that doesn't degrade most of the things you're working with, right? Mm-hmm.
+
+[4:55] Okay. I mean I don't know whether I mean I'm sure most of the solvents they use don't degrade things, otherwise they wouldn't use them. That's true. Yeah, okay. Uh all right, so call in all of your questions, either about uh uh flavor chemistry or about world's greatest pastries, or about any random uh bull crap you choose to 7184972128, that's 7184972128.
+
+[5:17] And uh while we're at it last week, we made the horrible mistake of not talking about our sponsors, Modernist pantry. Have any of you guys used the Modernist pantry before? I've seen the website. Seen the website? But you know, you've already you've had your suppliers for years, so you probably like you know, have you ever used it?
+
+[5:28] I never have. I have an order I keep meaning to buy from them. Yeah. No, maybe maybe now's the time. I I haven't either, uh I'm ashamed to say, but I have sent uh many people to them and uh have heard only good things.
+
+[5:45] Uh so here is this week's uh what do you call it? Plug? Plug? Plug? Sure.
+
+[5:50] Okay. Okay. Today's show is sponsored by Modernist Pantry, supplying innovative ingredients for the modern cook. Do you love to experiment with new cooking techniques and ingredients but hate to overspend for pounds of supplies when only a few grams are needed per application? Modernist Pantry has a solution.
+
+[6:04] They offer a wide range of modern ingredients and packages that make sense for the home cook and enthusiast. And most cost only around five bucks. Saving you time, money, and storage space. Presumably they just size whatever it is they're using to a five dollar size, right? I mean, you know, it's like you could say that crack only costs five bucks, but then they keep making the size of the crack vial smaller and smaller.
+
+[6:25] True. Uh I'll take that. Like with Coca-Cola moving to a 20-ounce bottle. What? Well, they used to only have small bottles and then they moved to 20 ounce, but charge the same price.
+
+[6:35] Wait. Wait, wait, so wait, sweet. So they but you're talking about like the liter went down to a 20, because I always bought 20s to pound like a 20 is a nice, I'm gonna pound this right now size. Yeah, in like a vending machine. Oh, in a vending machine.
+
+[6:47] Yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah, okay. I haven't purchased Coca-Cola from vending machine in a long time. My wife will not let me purchase uh soda for the children, even though uh I grew up I I only drank carbonated beverages growing up, except for a very short kind of crystal light phase that I went through where I only drank crystal light. And and for those of you out there Crystal Light is actually a huge influence on me, so really?
+
+[7:08] Yeah, yeah. For real? You also grew up drinking the crystal light or just later. I always hated it and I thought it tasted terrible, but hugely influential in how I look at food for sure. Really?
+
+[7:18] Yeah, yeah. And now is true true or false, you only use aspartame in all of your recipes. That's it. That's it, completely. Only aspartame.
+
+[7:24] Uh we're lying, by the way. That that was a joke for all of you who are very concrete thinkers out there. That is not the case. Uh wait with the the problem is is if you drink uh diet sodas and or diet lemonade mixes or whatever, they have horrible new fake mocktails, by the way, crystal. I haven't tried them, but the idea is horrible.
+
+[7:42] They have a powder that they label mojito, which is that's an impossibility to have a mojito powder. That sounds gross. Yeah, it's horrible. Especially, you know, I'm sure they don't use aspartame anymore. I detest stevia, by the way.
+
+[7:53] Anyone out there who tries to call me up and say that your stevia is better than anyone else's, the freaking plant tastes bad. I've tasted it like directly, like grown, I've walked up to the plant, ta pick the leaf off and be like, yes, that awful metallic, bitter, crappy aftertaste is inherent to the product. And not mean unless and what I freaking love about this is that there are companies who sit there working around how to mask the incredibly awful taste. Yeah. Anyway, it's it's it's pretty gross.
+
+[8:21] Yeah, so uh for those of you that are like, well, why don't you just drink the regular wind? It's because uh those of us uh uh who drink predominantly diet liquids don't like to drink flat water for our hydration. We don't enjoy the flat water. We are throwbacks, some sort of Lamarckian genetic throwback to the days when water was poisonous, and none of us like to drink that. And so uh the issue is is if you were to drink regular soda uh or regular lemonade as your sole source of uh hydration, that would be absurd.
+
+[8:52] Like who wants to drink a jug of maple syrup every day? Very few of us, right? So, where diet soda drinkers are coming from is we inure ourselves to the horrible aftertaste and eventually you learn to like it, right? If you haven't done it in a long time, you know it's hard sometimes to go back. But you you kind of get over that taste hump, and uh then all of a sudden uh it doesn't bother you anymore, and we pound we pound liter after liter of this crap every day.
+
+[9:14] Now, that is why when you are shopping for somebody's party uh and you are a regular soda drinker, you make the uh the horrible error of purchasing equal amounts of diet soda and regular soda. When anybody knows if even two diet soda drinkers show up to your party, they will pound every amount of diet soda that you have provided. You all know this to be true. Uh anyway, my recommendation to you is instead of getting on these crappy, like you know, mojito powder. First of all, there first if if you're gonna put alcohol into it, just make it a real drink.
+
+[9:43] Otherwise, you're a bad person. But uh I don't I didn't mean that strongly, maybe, but kind of close, right? Yeah, you should you should stand by that. Yeah, all right, okay. Uh but uh my my big suggestion is learn to like seltzer.
+
+[9:55] When I was a kid, uh I always drank soda, so I was bubbles all the way back, like all the way back, bubbles, bubbles, bubbles, my whole life, bubbles. I started on TAB in the 70s, all right? Bubbles. But uh, but uh I didn't like seltzer for a long time, and then when I was going to uh the college, I realized that um that it was gonna be cheaper for me to drink uh seltzer water. And I'm really I'm a cheap, cheap, cheap, cheap man.
+
+[10:19] And so at that time a cheap, cheap, cheap boy. And so what I did was I uh uh I trained myself over the course of a couple of weeks to uh like the seltzer, and then much like diet soda flavors in general, aspartame at the time, uh you learn to love it, and now uh I'll never go back. I'm uh I'm a seltzer man forever. Back to the Modernist pantry. Uh this all came from the the five bucks thing.
+
+[10:43] So I that's where I was. Okay, whether you are looking for hydrocolloids, pH buffers, or even meat glue, you'll find it at Modernist Pantry. And if you need something that they don't carry, just ask. Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you with inexpensive shipping to any country in the world. Modernist Pantry is your one-stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients.
+
+[10:59] Modernist Pantry carries three types of spray-dried vinegar powder white, malt, and balsamic. By the way, if you use vinegar powder, you gotta realize acetic acid is volatile, right? It's one of the few uh acids that we use in cooking that is extremely volatile. A lot of organic acids are volatile. But uh, and and this gives a lot of characteristic flavor uh, you know, aromas and flavors to uh certain uh alcoholic beverages, distilled beverages.
+
+[11:21] But the majority of acids that we deal with on a daily basis in the kitchen citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, uh non-volatile. Uh acetic acid is. So if you get sprayed dried vinegar powder, it has the flavor, like a taste of a vinegar, but they've almost no acidity. And so uh when you're adding a vinegar powder or something to make it acidic, you will have to cheat it with uh another acid. So uh typical cheetah acid would be citric acid because it's the most neutral of the dry powdered acids that uh that you can um buy.
+
+[11:52] Uh and people are used to associating uh the kind of lemony acid hit uh of citric acid with culinary acid in general. And so uh apparently there are cheetah acids out there that are specifically meant to give the acidic kick to things like potato chips. I don't have source I had a guy who slipped me his card once, he's like, I make them call me, but Nastasha, I don't know whether she ever called the guy. Uh so I don't have the source for them yet, and I can't tell you what they are. So if you buy it, I would also suggest buying from them um some citric acid uh powder.
+
+[12:24] The one gripe I have with the commercial citric acid powders is the granule size is relatively large. It's somewhere in between uh U.S. granulated sugar and and uh and a and a U.S. super fine sugar. So it's a little bit too granular for me for the c compared to the spray-dried powders, which are very, very powdery because of the method in which they're made.
+
+[12:42] So there's no ideal solution yet. Maybe buy some citric acid, pulse it in a spice grinder for a little while to try and get it a little more powdered so that it integrates better with the uh vinegar powder. Anyway, okay. We carry three types of spray-dried vinegar powders white, malt and balsamic. Fans of cooking issues, it place an order of $25 or more before next week's show.
+
+[12:59] We'll get a free package of malt vinegar powder. Good choice, malt vinegar powder, good stuff. Uh which is perfect for making modernist fish and chips. Do they use that in the fish and chips recipe in the modernist cuisine? Anyone?
+
+[13:09] Anyone? Not sure. Should have had that crap on last week when Maxine was here. Simply use the promo code CI80 when placing your order online at modernistpantry.com. Visit modernist pantry.com today for all of your modernist cooking needs.
+
+[13:22] Okay. So uh by the way, you know, I have no idea whether these guys are pissed off or not that I constantly like stop in the middle of their promos and like make comments and whatnot. I mean, I think that's why they keep coming back. I think they like it. Really?
+
+[13:35] Yeah, who knows? Uh all right. So uh hey Brooks, I I don't know you haven't uh because by the way, folks. If you don't know me, I'm a jerk, and I haven't uh given Brooks any of the information that we're gonna talk about before the show. So he has no idea what the hell's going on.
+
+[13:48] I I I plan to be completely sandbagged here. So that's how that's how it goes. So we're gonna start though, uh, with the reason Ariel, we I hadn't planned on uh uh having her on the show today, but she wrote in a comment based on the kind of flavor pairings uh question we had last week and the paper on flavor pairings. By the way, I'm gonna buy that book by that Somaye who's very interested in this. Oh, the taste buds and molecules.
+
+[14:11] Yeah. Yeah. I mean I I don't I have no judgment on it because I have not read it yet. I refuse to make uh comments on things I haven't read yet, either pro or negative. The reviews are mixed on Amazon, but mainly about the graphics presentation of it, which some people really like and some people really hate.
+
+[14:26] But uh I'm gonna check it. But so for those of you that don't know what uh what in the hell we're talking about, flavor pairing is this concept, I think largely bunk, uh, and by bunk I mean crap, that uh you should be able to pick out uh the different flavors that you use uh based on their underlying chemical composition. Uh in other words, if if uh parrot meat shares a specific uh flavor compound with uh donkey poo that you might want to put the parrot and the donkey poo together in a dish. I obviously I don't really mean but whatever. Don't kill parrots.
+
+[15:05] Uh but um But eat donkey poo. Well, that's up to you. I mean you're not hurting it. In other words, like no one's gonna get angry at you for it. True.
+
+[15:13] Yeah, yeah. Yeah. Uh and you know, my family's had parrots, please. I don't know no comments on how I'm anti-parent. I'm pro pared.
+
+[15:18] I want to get a parrot action. My wife doesn't like birds. But I want a bird because my kids want a pet, but we have no room for a dog. My we can't have cats because we're allergic to the cats, and that my sister-laws is allergic to the cats, but I want a pet that they that will give a crap about people, and parrots are like the other pet that cares about people, even though they're weird about it, like they're weird about it because they're birds, but anyway, whatever anyway. So we're talking about this concept.
+
+[15:38] There's this uh paper that came out recently that actually what they did is they did a mass database uh data mining study of recipes. Uh, and then uh those recipes, they looked to see whether or not they shared uh chemical The hammer just walked in. Nastasha. Uh they compared those recipes to see whether or not there was any actual uh w whether it's true that recipes that we tend to make over the course of decades, years, centuries, actually share more flavor components than would be if you just chose recipes at random, which is the horrible idea that Air Vetis actually espouses that we should make sauces on uh uh randomly based on a computer, have them generated, and then see whether or not they taste good, which seems to me to be uh the monkey typing Shakespeare way of making food, which is uh preposterous and horrible. Uh so uh Brooks, you familiar with this taste pairing hypothesis crap?
+
+[16:27] Um not not entirely not so far, I mean I know I presented it in a rather biased jaundice light. Does it sound like a good idea, or would you prefer to base flavor combinations on the years you've spent tasting and and cooking? Yeah, I mean I mean it's like uh it's all it's repetition, you know. Yeah. Like repetition of of making things or tasting things.
+
+[16:50] Um like you kind of like build your palate, I guess. Yeah, that's the way I think about it. So area that just seems just like normal. So yeah, and of course, like you know, now like it's very rare that I'm in the position of being like the old Kajer son of a bitch who's like modern stuff. You know what I mean?
+
+[17:08] But like it seems to me that uh look in the end, anything that helps you make better food, good idea. Like I don't care what your inspiration is. If your inspiration is, you know, looking at constellations and somehow looking at constellations and you have some sort of matrix that then like gets your creative juices flowing and your food ends up tasting good, bueno. But you know what I mean? The cr the crystal light logo.
+
+[17:27] Yeah, sure. Like sure, Brooks. Yeah, that that splash. Brooks, the splash on the crystal light logo, apparently Brooks is now telling me true or false, that's the inspiration for all of your cooking. Not all of it, but a lot a lot of the fruit based things for sure.
+
+[17:38] What about the celery sorbet? Your amazing celery sorbet? Um no, I don't think that had anything to do with the crystal crystal light logo. So please, please. For those of you that don't know, by the way, before I I'm gonna get Arielle on this in a second, uh uh about the um what she thinks about it.
+
+[17:52] And I want her to give me her unvarnished opinion, pro or pop pro or negative, because nothing I like better than a good a good uh argument. But uh Brooks, and we've said this a million times on the show, uh, you know, but whenever you try and say that he's doing innovative work, uh he'll say he's not. But the fact of the matter is makes uh delicious uh desserts that you aren't expecting. So for me, that's uh that's innovation right there. What do you think?
+
+[18:15] Nastache, what do you think? You have to s you have to speak up, you're not by a microphone. Yeah, okay. Uh so Ariel, what do you what are what are your thoughts on uh what are your thoughts on this flavor pairing stuff? On flavor pairing or on this paper?
+
+[18:26] Uh uh first give me flavor pairing, nutshell, and then this paper in you know another another separate nutshell. Well, I would imagine that um shared compounds and shared volatiles may play some role in a novel flavor pairing, whether or not someone eating it likes it or not, but it's not gonna be a deterministic uh guarantee that a pairing will work. And it might have to do more with the non shared compounds and how those go together when you make a a pairing out of out of things. So what you're saying is that it may or may not have any relevance at all. Yes.
+
+[18:58] Uh do you find it an interest like is it interesting to you that uh as a as a as a starting point or as a framework in which to work? Do you think have you seen any dishes that have come out of it that would otherwise not have uh come into the world that you think are gonna be here for a long time because they're so freaking awesome? Well, I don't know that I could comment on uh longevity, but I have had some interesting like uh orange and beetroot type things that Heston Blumenthal made and that makes sense to me. Well, it makes sense to you, but would it make sense to to anybody? In other words, orange and beets don't sound like they're so they're not so far off.
+
+[19:36] I mean, like they make they make sense to me from a cook's perspective, right? Yeah, no, that doesn't sound weird, though. Yeah. Like liver and jasmine sounds weird. So then well, yeah.
+
+[19:46] Like that sounds weird. I've never had that one. Yeah, but I mean that's one of the classics. Yeah, yeah. I have had the the white chocolate and caviar before.
+
+[19:53] Yeah, yeah. Maxine was talking about that lesson. How is that? Yeah, I just tasted it. It was um it depends on the proportion between white chocolate and caviar, but it can be kind of cool.
+
+[20:01] Also, caviar is such a wide-ranging flavor. That's true. And white chocolate is evil. Yeah, it's true. Also true.
+
+[20:09] Thank God we have Brooks here, man. That's awesome. Okay, so uh what? Wait a minute, we're not done talking about this paper yet. Then we'll take a break.
+
+[20:16] All right. So uh and by the way, while we're taking a break, you better call in your freaking questions to 7184972128, 7184972128. Okay. Now about the paper. Well by the way, can I?
+
+[20:26] Yeah, t describe the paper very quickly too. Okay, so what the the paper did, they took a gigantic set of recipes online, I think from all recipes and some Korean site. But oh yeah, they did a Korean site to see whether or not Western perception of Korean food was the same as Korean perception of Korean food, right? So they took this gigantic online recipe database and uh took each recipe and looked at the ingredients in each, and then from some handbook of essential oils and a couple of other things determined what compounds were in each ingredient. Which is a horseshit technique, right?
+
+[20:53] Well, considering that the uh aroma character of any given compound is dependent on concentration and they didn't look at concentration, I'm not sure how relatable to flavor their data set actually is. Wildly dependent, right? Oh, extremely. I'm told I'm what I meant to say was horse poop. Uh yeah, so in other words, uh you you'll know off the tip of your tongue, but like certain things can go from being like pleasantly grassy to vomit, like depending on concentration, right?
+
+[21:16] Yeah, ethyl butyrate is a good example of that. Uh that at a nice medium concentration smells like green apple. Um as you increase the concentration, it starts smelling like rotten apples and then finally like feet or really, really stinky cheese. Wasn't that the name of your last band? Ethel butyrate.
+
+[21:30] Come on, man. Like ethyl ethyl merman butyrate. That's your next band. Ethel mermin butyrate. Uh you know, Brooks sometimes will have like nano bands that like, you know, are only there.
+
+[21:40] Maybe one of them could be ethylum and butyrate. Like a pop-up. Yeah, it's a microband. Microband. A nano band.
+
+[21:44] Yeah, nanoband. Uh okay. Uh so uh was that the only gripe you had about the paper? I think the site was it all recipes? I think it was all recipes.
+
+[21:51] I think it was all recipes. And uh the take. Every recipe on that's is one of Brooks's by the way. Every single one. Okay, so I won't hate on it too much.
+
+[21:58] Um I don't know uh actually what recipes went into their data set and they didn't give a list, but if you look at the uh primary ingredients for what they call North American recipes, it's all butter, eggs, wheat, sugar, and cream, which suggests to me that uh the recipes they use to represent North American cuisine are desserts. And there's so much more to North American cuisine than just desserts. I mean desserts. Although it is what we are be it's just what we're best at as opposed to what other people are good at. But I don't think all of North American flavor pairing in a uh cultural context could be described just by cake recipes on all recipes.
+
+[22:31] Right. The other problem is is that uh the cook cooked aroma of those is vastly different from the I mean, no one thinks that if you were to gather the ingredients for a pie, they do not the smell of a cooked pie make. That is true. Um in fact th the the the compounds aren't even there yet. They're all in precursor form.
+
+[22:49] Um the s but what's interesting about it is that the the findings of the study are basically if you remove a certain subset of things like these very basic ingredients from either Asian cuisine or uh you know, West what they call Western whom who the hell knows because we don't have the recipes, um turns out that uh they don't share any more than would be statistically r randomly uh associated. You know, once you take out the top six ingredients or something. So, but you you say you you you would be loath to take these this study on to accept either a positive or negative finding because you think the methodology is poor. Yeah, I think large data-driven uh studies like this are valuable and interesting, but they're only as good as the data sets that they use, and I think that their data set and their approach are flawed to make the uh too flawed to make the broad conclusions that they do. Yeah, pretty pictures though.
+
+[23:42] Did I mention that? Oh, yeah, cool. Cool. And I think that's the problem because uh the study is getting a lot of traction. Yeah.
+
+[23:48] And so people are paying a lot of attention to it, but it's one of my many gripes in the world is that is that someone makes a study, puts a big splashy like uh, you know, statement in the abstract or conclusion, and then it gets a lot of traction because no one goes back and reads the damn study. Exactly. All right. And with that, calling your questions to 7184972128. That's 7184972128.
+
+[24:08] Take a break. Cooking issues. That had to have been Nastasha, the Downton Abbey cooking issues down Abbey edition. That's the most used break song of two thousand twelve on this stage. People love this.
+
+[25:22] Really? Yeah. Do they think that we're gonna come back with British accents and be kind of like lords and ladies? I always hope that. I want to be the servant.
+
+[25:29] I want to be your accent. I want to be I'm not gonna do the accent. We'll get Karen in here, the bartender to do it. I'm gonna come back as Mr. Bates.
+
+[25:41] Hi, this is Drilling. I I guess I just had a uh a question on whether you think of the uh the problems with this uh what's it called? The flavor uh flavor pairing. Whether that's uh whether it's flavor pairing. Or is it based on the fact that you you don't think that that's a an interesting way of finding new new flavor compounds at all?
+
+[26:07] Huh. I'll give you my perspective really quickly. Uh I'm not gonna talk about the study, I'll let Ariel do that. My feeling is that it's gonna be both I look here's here's my thing. I think um I uh fr I think it's scientifically flawed.
+
+[26:21] In other words, look, I don't think that there's any reason a priori to believe that because two ingredients share chemical compounds that they go well together, right? Uh but that said, if it is i it it's not an invalid source of inspiration for somebody if you find it interesting and inspirational and if you get good ideas from it. Any more than reading a book can give you ideas for a dish, or you know, being out in a in a field in the middle of spring and like thinking about things can give you inspiration. So I I don't there's no such thing as an invalid source of inspiration. It's just I I think that th there's no reason for me to believe that uh that that things should go together just because they share compounds.
+
+[27:07] That's my gripe. Now on the study, what do you think of it? Well, I think uh if we can go back to flavor pairing really quickly. The takeaway from that is that um there are a huge number of fascinating and interactive perceptual things that are going on between chemistry and flavor when we mix ingredients together, we just have no idea how they work yet. So so what are your what are your thoughts?
+
+[27:29] Do you think we're full of uh full of crap, or do you agree, disagree? What's your what's your take? Me? Yeah. Well, I mean, I I I think that a lot of the things you would get would be uh, you know, you've got you've got your base flavors in different cuisines, right?
+
+[27:45] And so if you were to look, if you were just take a bunch of, in this case, Korean recipes or you know, Thai recipes or anything like that, right? You're you're gonna get all these compounds that are most commonly coming up in those in those recipes, you know. So so whether that's that's the space spices or uh base urb, you know, or herbs and spices that are used a lot in those in those cuisines, they're gonna keep coming up. So I think what you would get then is just a repetitive kind of pairing that, oh you know, uh I I can't even think, you know, just you know, an Indian cuisine, you know, uh curries, you know, all the all the spices that go into there, right? Well that they're in practically everything.
+
+[28:27] So every every you know, you keep going through these uh dishes and that's what you're gonna get. So I don't I don't really see how you would get new things because I I I guess it would only come together when you're crossing cuisines and then it was like some random ingredient from one cuisine and another random ingredient in the other cuisine and they share flavor compounds, and so then you would just assume that they could be swapped out with each other. And then I think it would be I I just I I don't I don't know. I kinda see what you're saying. I mean but I I I kind of disagree that you can't get new flavors by going into look the the genius of kind of uh American cuisine, right?
+
+[29:05] We started with kind of the now much maligned kind of fusion stuff, right? Which everyone now is oh fusion, uh well, you know, that's an old gripe. Maybe people are pro-fusion again, but you know, back when I was a kid f like fusion was the passe thing, no one wanted to be labeled with the fusion label. But what we are at d at base here in the US and uh certainly uh abroad in the mo in the modernists kind of thinking if you take that as an actual movement, which you know, we can have a debate, is uh we steal things, right? So we steal things from uh industry, we steal things from uh we steal things from anything.
+
+[29:38] And so we steal things from other cultures. And so I think that the best way to steal something is to use their flavor components straight up for a while to kind of get a feel for it, and then you can take bits and pieces because you know how they work together. And so you can get r you know, really kind of new and different flavors without doing straight fusion, right? You know, flavor of India with French technique, or what would be more interesting uh the other way around, Indian technique with French ingredients. But uh the what do you what do you what do you what do you guys think about this as uh as a mode of innovation?
+
+[30:13] In other words, I don't I don't I don't I don't think it's a ness this flavor pairing thing isn't obviously is not necessary for innovation. I mean it could be interesting. It could be interesting to kind of trip your mind into new new things, but again, anything could do that. You know what I mean? I don't know.
+
+[30:27] What do you anyone, Brooks? I mean, as a as like a a base uh a form of inspiration or whatever, then sure, that's that's cool. But I mean, like, you know, when it comes down to it, it's just like tasting and and putting the things together and and doing it over and over and over and over and over and over and over again until you have something that that that kind of works, you know. So I mean, I mean, I mean, I I mean, certainly uh chemistry is not as ripe a f uh a place for inspiration as the crystal light splash. But uh you want to talk about that for a second?
+
+[31:05] The splash again? Yeah. Okay. What do you like about it? I'm hoping that we can have a small commercial break and that we can get the I believe in crystal light song for our.
+
+[31:12] It just looks so refreshing that that you that that's what you want to uh sort of aspire to. I believe that you know that's the thing, is like uh not all food is meant to be refreshing, but I really like refreshing things. Like I really like I was you know, refreshing is always good. No one's like, oh my God. I went and I had a uh, you know, I had this dessert, I had this sorbet, and it was refreshing.
+
+[31:37] Oh you know what I mean? No one's ever no one's ever anti-refreshing. No one ever wants to, you know, I want the I want the heavy mental beatdown. Like for my that's what you know, I guess you know, ponderous. Who wants a ponderous meal?
+
+[31:44] Refreshing. I think I've got the ad if you want it. Yeah, all right. Let's go to a tiny micro commercial break where we're gonna do some crystal light. I believe it's be as fun as can be.
+
+[32:03] I believe in life in sugar free. I believe in crystal light goes on the linen. Crystal light drink mix is sweetened with 100% nutri-sweet, so there's no sugar, no saccharine, and no saccharine aftertaste. All these natural flavors taste so terrific. It's hard to believe there's only four calories a glass.
+
+[32:26] Oh yeah! Refreshing crystal light, only four calories per serving. No, yeah, I mean, like, what's not to love about that? It's it's not even it's everything about that is refreshing and exciting and the guitar line and the drums. It's it's it's just plain awesome.
+
+[32:42] Yeah, and and the word nutra-sweet's cool too. Yeah, yeah. Because it gives you nutrients without giving you calories, and it's sweet. That's awesome. Awesome.
+
+[32:50] No wonder I drank buckets of that stuff growing up. Man. Alright. I got a question that hopefully Brooks will enjoy from last week. Angela, our one of our favorite interns from Nebraska, land of endless possibilities, wants to make fluffy butterscotch.
+
+[33:04] Can she do it? She's using it to build a cake, uh, but she doesn't just want to do butterscotch buttercream. What's up? Why tap me? Oh, well, we're doing a show right now.
+
+[33:14] Uh, okay. So uh, okay, so Brooks, you're gonna be good at this. So the butterscotch, for those of you that don't know what the hell we're talking about, is butterscotch. And basically, you know, it's like brown sugar cooked with butter, uh, and then usually some cream is added in and it's uh turned into a sauce, right? Yes, right, salt, right?
+
+[33:31] Super important. Yes, thank you. So the question is without just using that as a basis for a buttercream, if you want to make it fluffy, what would you do? Would you make a mousse out of it? For a cake?
+
+[33:40] But you don't want to um yeah, I mean you could easily take take uh like say like make a butterscot sauce and and you know g whip egg whites into it uh to make it sort of light and moussey or whatever. Um but you need to add gelatin though so the egg whites don't break down after it sets, right? Yeah, yeah, yeah. So that's like I'm I'm not that's I I wouldn't do that. So um what would you do?
+
+[34:03] Um if I wanted like a butterscotch flavor. But fluff, yeah. But fluffy. But fluffy, but not like a butter, not like a buttercream. Um honestly, I would uh I think like really perfect butterscotch sauce made with the best possible butter and uh dark brown sugar and salt and um like I would just use that and use that as a garnishing agent rather than try to make it something different because perfect butterscotch sauce is just perfect and it doesn't need to be fluffy.
+
+[34:39] So all right, so ba basically, Brooks, you're avoiding the question. Let's say you wanted that son of a gun to be fluffy. I mean in other words, like could you take something like that and make a fondant and then beat it? Uh or would the fat interfere? Uh I I mean I think like yeah, there's there's ways that it could be done.
+
+[35:00] I just like my uh for something like that, my brain doesn't really work that way. So I mean i obviously you could make something with the texture of a chocolate mousse, just you know, treat it like a chocolate mousse, lower the liquid base a little bit because you already have the little bit more liquid in the butterscotch, but it should work. So that's egg whites, like you said, gel it and fold it together and set. Can you spread a moose and have it not break? Yeah, yeah, sure.
+
+[35:26] Yeah. But you wouldn't do it. I wouldn't know, not personally. I'm actually trying I'm actually trying to eliminate all of the use of gelatin, period, and any in all of my. Because of the vegetarian thing?
+
+[35:36] No, no, no. Just uh I think it's um it's a crutch that people use too much. Um just not for any real reason other than just to say I I did it. So right. So in other words, like here's another source of inspiration, kind of self-limitation.
+
+[35:50] A lot of really good dishes come out of self-limitation. Whole cuisines are based on self-limitation. And so when you've already achieved a certain level, the question is how do you branch out or get some new stuff, give yourself a limit, and then uh see what happens. Is this is this why you did or just for the hell of it? Um I yeah, I just I just I don't know.
+
+[36:05] I think gelatin's kind of creepy. And um like pig hooves? No, no, I I'm totally into pig hooves. It's just the like it's just the the gel I just think it's used a lot, overly so, and uh um yeah, that's all. Yeah, all right.
+
+[36:20] Uh Nastasha, well, do you remember the recipe for the inside of Getz caramel creams, which are like God's candy? Yeah, no, I don't remember it off the top of my head. That stuff's good. You like a caramel cream? Of course.
+
+[36:30] Absolutely. For those of you that don't live uh in the United States of America, or I think are they West Coast or are they only East Coast? I like I mean they're a Pennsylvania Dutch style of thing. Gets is a Pennsylvania company. It's pronounced it it's written like GERTS, G-O-E- Like T Z.
+
+[36:45] It's pronounced Getz. And uh what it is, it's caramel with the little bullseye of that kind of like whipped fat crap in the middle, which is delicious. Brooks, you're gonna yeah, it's kind of dry. Yeah. And like uh yeah, it's like it's like it's like somewhere between like Oreo filling and something else where it's just like dry, almost like it crumbles in your mouth.
+
+[37:05] Yeah, that would be good with a butterscotch flavor, right? Yeah, sure. I don't know how to make that stuff. I think it's powdered sugar and we tried. Well, you tried.
+
+[37:15] We were trying to make a coconut base one. We wanted like a coconut caramel cream. What we were trying to do something else with it. That is delicious. Carrot cream is delicious candy.
+
+[37:24] I saw someone at Economy Candy, which is like the one of the local big candy shops here in the in in uh New York. By the way, speaking of Oreos, Brooks makes a delicious freaking Oreo. Delicious Oreo. So much better than Nabisco's Oreo. Makes him wish that he had made the Oreo instead.
+
+[37:38] Anyway, uh guy was like, what candy should I take back? Uh, you know, to England, because he was English. He's like, uh you know that's it really says America. I was like, hey, take the caramel creams, they're delicious. Okay.
+
+[37:50] Uh so anyways, maybe we've milked this. Brooks is not gonna Angela Brooks will not tell you how to do it. Uh that's just that's all there is to it. He's not gonna tell you. Sorry.
+
+[37:58] Uh okay. So, oh my god, I had to put a password on my iPad, so when it when it goes down, it because my my kids were invading my iPad. So now it takes me an extra ten seconds to come up. Okay. I had a question in from and I I can't seem to to get to it.
+
+[38:14] Uh okay, Jack, someone's having problems with the Heritage Radio Live feed. We fix that crap. Is it right now? No, no, before. Oh, yeah, that's working.
+
+[38:22] Yeah, all right. Very good. Okay, dear Dave and Co., Josh in Somerset uh UK says, I have to keep buying new cooking probes. The one with the cable uh to a device so that I can put it in the oven, because either the probe and or the device keep breaking. Can you please suggest a reliable make?
+
+[38:37] Something with good reaction speed, good range, up to 200 C? That's 400 Fahrenheit for you, Fahrenheit folk. And if possible, but not essential, a probe that's mildly resistant to water, so cleaning is made easier. No. They all suck.
+
+[38:44] I've broken many of them. I've broken tailors, I've broken polders, I've broken every single one of them I've ever used. They've all crapped out. I've used them to try and do a roast inside of a pot. The steam gets inside of that crimp around the probe on the cable and they break and they die on me.
+
+[39:06] Has anyone in this room had a good experience with one of those Sunsa guns? No. They suck. Yeah. So do you so what do you recommend then?
+
+[39:12] Well, either just keep buying a crap uh ton of them, which is not a good solution, or uh I would suggest getting uh an industrial uh thermocouple. Uh they're they're ruggedized, the the the actual cases are ruggedized. You can get like basically they look like multimeters with like a rubberized outside, and they're pretty much impervious to whatever ails you. And then you get relatively cheap uh thermocouple probes that attach into them. You want to make sure thermocouple probes come in a wide variety of uh cable configurations, right?
+
+[39:42] And also head configurations. So you find um obviously the fatter the thinner they are, the better their response time, but the more fragile they are, and also the uh the more expensive they are typically. Uh you want to avoid for oven use anything that has a complicated head or the micro, like the ones that are used in C V, the hypodermics, because the heads of those things aren't rated for high temperatures and they'll burn out. Like they the epoxies they use to uh put everything together on the inside of those heads, not meant to withstand the oven. That said, you get a good fiberglass cable insulated thermocouple probe, and it's good to 900 Celsius sometimes.
+
+[40:17] So some of these like are uh 900 Fahrenheit or nine Celsius. I can't remember. Probably whatever. Uh but like but you can get cables that'll withstand basically uh kilns. And I've had thermocouple cables in my oven that have been in there for years, and my oven routinely gets up to 850 Fahrenheit.
+
+[40:29] Uh tops out. I've my oven tops out at like 875 at this point Fahrenheit or a little better. And I have embedded thermocouple probes that don't break, and I have uh air temperature probes that don't break, and and I use industrial thermocouple. And the good news is if you find a good source, the McMaster Car is a fast source, but an expensive source. Uh you can get them for uh, you know, like like 15, 20 bucks.
+
+[40:59] Uh, you can get uh waterproof ones, just pay attention to the cable. You can make your own thermocouples, which I do. They're typically not waterproof, but they usually last for the application that you're doing. If you make your own probes by twisting the wires together, it's on the order of a dollar per. You know what I mean?
+
+[41:13] For the because you just buy lengths of the cable and make it as long as you want uh and get the get the connectors. So that that's what I recommend. But I've never had it. The ones that they're using ovens are typically uh RTD, they're resistance, uh, you know, resistance temperature things. They break, they just they just don't they break.
+
+[41:29] They break all the god dang time. They just don't seem to last. Yeah, yeah. All right, very quickly. Uh Tony uh Tony Harrian from the mixing bar in Brazil writes in.
+
+[41:39] Uh this is last week it didn't make it in. Uh last December we started investing a little more in our uh cooking lab. We've been working with a conventional distillation uh of our own booze. I'm glad you can do that. I can't do that here in the US of A, they'll throw me in the jail.
+
+[41:50] Uh or they won't throw me in jail, they'll just take away the liquor license. It's not even my liquor license, it's Sam's liquor license, so then everyone will hate me anyway. Not that they don't already hate me. Uh okay. Uh but now we have a rotovap, uh, sockslit, socks that's an interesting extraction technique, which I don't have time to talk to you about right now.
+
+[42:05] Maybe some other time I like sockside extraction. It's kind of old. People, I think, don't do it in the labs so much anymore. Yeah, we're moving away from that generally. Sometimes for pesticides, but delicious pesticides, I think you mean.
+
+[42:14] The advantage of a soxide extraction is that it allows you to reuse your solvent a bunch of times so you get fresh solvent into the pro thing you're extracting from uh on a consistent basis, so you can get much higher uh extraction rates uh for a given amount of solvent. So you can make really punchy things in socksolids. Theoretically, that's the advantage of the socks. What do you use instead now? Oh, we use something called solid phase microextraction, me, me, me, me, me.
+
+[42:37] Uh okay. We'll stick with soxide in the kitchen. Uh okay. Uh one thing we don't have yet is a vac a chamber vacuum machine. So we adapted glass jars with fast connections to make syrups and speed up infusions.
+
+[42:47] You can see a few pictures on our Facebook page. Uh we tested our jars very well, but warned people about potential dangers. We mostly use it for the barns, but working okay, uh, plus it costs nothing. We use either valves or hot pliers to melt the tubing, which they have like fat they have fat basically those those push to connect fittings that you can get in the plumbing store, the push to connect to get the tubing in, which actually are vacuum rated. I mean, I've read the vacuum ratings on those are all right.
+
+[43:08] Uh they use it with an oil-based vacuum pump and a cold trap chilled by ice or dry ice when we have it. What are my thoughts on this setup? My thoughts on the setup. I use it, I saw their setup, it's basically mason jars, not even they're pickle jars, right? They're very cheap to buy.
+
+[43:21] Be very, very, very cautious uh using this in front of people who aren't wearing safety glasses. Standard uh pickle jar. Uh first of all, the vacuum that's created uh when you're canning in one of those jars is much less than the vacuum uh that you create when you're putting an oil based vacuum pump. The oil based vacuum pumps that I use, which are refrigeration pumps, they're not even that expensive, routinely get down to five millibars or less, absolute pressure. Right?
+
+[43:45] So you're talking basically a full vacuum, 15 PSI. If you are using a uh pickle jar like that, which is molded, there's seams in it, and there's lots of places where there's additional stress involved in it, you could uh be setting yourself up for a violent, uh sudden violent implosion. Uh so what I would recommend is putting a um, and the the problem with an implosion, even though it goes in, is that uh the pieces can pass each other. In other words, just because it's imploding doesn't mean that it's going to hit its counterpart on the other side. So glass goes everywhere, and by everywhere I mean in your eye, in your face, uh, you know, in stuff like this, in your ice well, even worse.
+
+[44:21] Uh, and uh so uh you you're gonna want to wrap electrical tape around it to stop like the pieces from flying too far, and or get a mesh. The old lab trick I was told by old rotoVap heads uh for people before before they purchased uh plastic coated glassware for everything, was to uh wrap um wrap everything in electrical tape basically, uh so that the pieces don't go too far. The other uh thing I would recommend move to uh move to a polycarb uh polycarb uh vessels. They have uh pressure-rated polycarb things like for instance pasta click keepers that will withstand that kind of vacuum level. Uh it doesn't cost that much more, and those when they shatter, polycarb has a much better uh shatter mode than glass does because it it will crack uh but it will not uh splinter into a bunch of pieces.
+
+[45:08] This is why when you're when you're making um potato guns and other sort of high pressure air guns with piping, PVC is actually not a great choice because P the fracture, the fracture um mode of PVC is into splintering kind of things, whereas certain other plastics, I believe like ABS or or polycarb, when they fracture have better kind of a fracture mode. Uh so uh that's just my thoughts. The other question you have was when working with a rotoVap, do you guys tend to puree the products before distillation? Yes. Uh although Tony Kunayaro, our good buddy in uh in the England, does not.
+
+[45:43] Uh I got in the habit of blending stuff into a pulp and sometimes straining it to get a better extraction. It seems like the puree plus straining method gives a smoother distillation towards the end of a run compared to just a puree. Okay. What do you think about pureeing versus puring pieces or chunks or straining out? Thanks very much.
+
+[45:59] Here are my thoughts. Well the reason you probably like the strained puree better is taste the stuff that you've strained out. If the stuff you strained out doesn't have as good of a flavor as the stuff that went through your chinois or whatever you're passing, that's the cause of the difference in the in the in the in in the flavors. I mean like the the the way I always figure how a roto vap, I sniff it and I see what's going to come through. I don't think the the straining itself shouldn't make it any more or less smooth.
+
+[46:23] I would recommend putting things through a very light vacuum cycle before you rotovap to get rid of uh uh a foam over problems. You might be also having problems your straining might be getting rid of some of the air bubbles that came through when you're pureeing by getting rid of those air bubbles when you're pureeing uh you're causing uh l you're getting less violent foam up on the beginning less violent foam up as you start is going to give uh fewer kind of uh uh mic microparticles of crap that are coming over along with your distillate as it's running so there's a study recently on uh amino acids in unaged uh in unaged distillates clearly amino acids should not be in an unaged distillate it's contamination of some sort because you amino acids they they don't uh they don't distill right they're non volatile uh and so uh one of the explanations is microparticles are things carried over in violent distillations uh and so by reducing the violent distillations by uh getting rid of some of the entrained air at the beginning, perhaps you are actually making a smoother distillation. But simpler way for that would just be to vacuum it. So my two things are if you're actually getting a smoother distillation, it's because A, you're getting rid of air, which is going to help you at the beginning of your distillation run. B, you are uh taking out products that don't have as nice an aroma as the other stuff.
+
+[47:37] Yeah? Yeah, anyone? We've got uh an email question for Brooks from a Paul. All right, you want to read it for me, Jack? I will, yeah.
+
+[47:45] Says I've seen statements Brooks has made on the creation of vegan desserts for guests. Can he comment on these desserts and keep the hammer from making her vegan face? Are these items on the menu, or would one need to call ahead to let the kitchen know that vegans are coming? Who sent that question by the way? That is a Paul.
+
+[48:03] Paul. Paul. Um No, we have a uh we have a seven course vegan tasting menu that's uh always there every day. On the menu though? It's um if someone asks, we have it.
+
+[48:17] You bring the menu with tongs? Uh no, we have it. It's just our it's just our way of uh being uh like proactive. Like we if someone comes in and they have that particular dietary restriction, then we absolutely have them covered. So when you're working it's a hospitality thing.
+
+[48:36] When you're working on something like that, do you kind of have to make it like a catch-all, like also hypoallergenic and all that other stuff or no? Um yeah, well actually uh I think we make it so it is it can be like gluten-free too, because often those two go together. But it can it's it's we have we have the capabilities to do any sort of like um almost any like dietary thing just because I said, it's a hospitality thing. If somebody comes in um you know to uh to our restaurant, like it's our job to make sure that they leave completely psyched. So that's great.
+
+[49:11] That's great. And uh di tell me a little bit about making it. Like, do you like working on that problem? It seems like it's an interesting problem. Yeah, no, it's it's it's it's fun because uh it's one of those that's like giving yourself limitation things because especially with dessert, so much of it is based on eggs and cream and butter and you know, stuff like that.
+
+[49:33] So to make stuff like that, but then have it still taste good and still be something that could be served at a you know at a four-star restaurant. That's uh that's a big challenge and it's a really fun thing too. So hey Nastasha, let's go to Del Posto and get the the the vegan. Yeah, let's do it. You want to do it?
+
+[49:50] Yeah, let's do it. Let's do it soon. Yeah, I'm gonna do that. Alright, so listen. I don't know if I'm gonna get to do it before next week, but Nastash and I are gonna go to uh the Del Posto restaurant.
+
+[49:59] Uh, you know, one of our favorite Italian joints. And uh we're gonna get the seven course such a jerk. Uh uh, we're gonna get the uh seven course uh vegan tasting menu. Uh super thanks to Brooks and uh Ariel for coming in. And I want I want here's what I want you guys to think about over the over the next week.
+
+[50:18] Uh because I want to talk about it next week. I don't really know what I think. There's a cohort study out. Cohort means they just choose a bunch of random people, not random, they're like a group, and then they have questionnaires and they data mine it. I hate most data mining studies in general.
+
+[50:29] Ariel. Oh, yeah. They suck, right? Data snooping, it's like not. So there was a huge uh one that came out recently called Red Meat Consumption and Mortality.
+
+[50:38] Came out in March on March 16th. It's one of the it's a big data mining uh studies basically saying that if you eat meat, you're more likely to die. Which we all die. But in other words, they mean faster. Uh so uh I haven't had time to go over the data set, but I'd like uh all of you uh actual science folk uh in our listening audience to uh think about this study, the pros, cons, whether you guys believe it or whether you think it's a load of horse hockey and just bad bad data or good data.
+
+[51:04] Anyway, I'm gonna leave you with that. Thanks again for Brooks. Thanks for real cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows.
+
+[51:25] You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up to date news and information. Thanks for listening. You got my head all twisted.
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+[0:00] Hey, what's up? This is John Norris, and you're listening to the Heritage Radio Network. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live in the back of Roberta's Pizzeria on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from actually we're starting on time today, 12. Yeah.
+
+[0:22] Yeah. To about 1245. Actually, next week might be a problem. Go into Germany next week. Last time I was in Germany, we did cooking issues live from uh a street corner in Germany.
+
+[0:32] You wanna you want to see whether we can do uh the live German cooking issues again? Yeah, more off the wall than a street corner. Well, I mean like look, honestly, if I'm gonna do it, I probably have to do it in the hotel with Skype. Otherwise, I mean like we were just lucky that my phone didn't get cut out or I didn't get beat over the head by some sort of angry uh you know ex East German. Uh last time I did it, but uh we love the the angry ex East Germans, by the way, so no offense.
+
+[0:57] Calling all of your cooking questions to 7184972128, that's 718497 2128. So Stas, uh last week on the show we had uh our friend Ariel from UC Davis and Brooks Headley, the the the pastry chef that more people need to know about from Del Posto restaurant. Uh he got a call or a question in uh asking about the seven course vegan tasting menu that they do at Del Posto. Mistaha made her vegan face, which by the way, uh now I I I can relate to you all. She would not let me take a picture of it.
+
+[1:27] Literally, like I I pulled up the camera maybe eight, ten times. I caught her once as she was exiting the vegan face, but uh I couldn't get the full vegan face on camera because she refused to let me uh get it. But if you've ever seen uh uh either the Sopranos or uh Steven Van Zant on his new show uh Lewis Hammer, his angry his angry gangster face scowl, like the the kind of bulldog frown, that's pretty much that's pretty much the vegan face right there. So you can just pretty popular, I see even on iTunes, one of the reviews was referencing the vegan face. Really?
+
+[1:59] It's blowing up. Really? And I suspect maybe Nastasia can't even make the real vegan face anymore. No, I can. Well you can see anything.
+
+[2:11] It's when she doesn't mean to do it. That's when she did it. So like you could see her true reaction to the vegan lunch. It's like I don't need to actually ask her. I just look over and see, you know, is is Steven Van Zandt sitting next to me?
+
+[2:21] Or is Nastasha sitting next to me? And you know, that's basically how uh how you do it. So uh by the way, I'm I'm gonna get probably in big I'm about to get in big trouble with uh our good friends over at Del Posto, Mark Ladner and Brooks, because here's what they said. They actually enjoy making the V. They said, first of all, don't publicize the uh the the vegan thing.
+
+[2:41] Thank God our cadre of listeners is loyal, but you know, we're not there, you know. Well, whatever. We don't have enough visitors to blow up blow up Del Posto, right? Right or wrong. So I'm not gonna get in trouble.
+
+[2:53] Well well, we'll see, you'll find out. So here's what they said. Um any good cook likes a uh likes a challenge and likes a set of constraints uh in in which they can work and try to get new ideas to try and push their skills, push their talents, right? And this this could be anything, like so when we did the uh museum uh event last year, uh also at Del Posto, uh, you know, we pushed the bartenders and the cooks into areas they wouldn't normally uh work by giving them a set of constraints. You're gonna work with you know, this set of ingredients or this time, you know, this time, or like you know, Nils, we gave fad diets, etc., etc.
+
+[3:32] And and uh without exception, every single cook and bartender who worked at that event took uh the challenge in the exact way that we wanted to and use it as an opportunity to do something uh creative and interesting. Wiley, in fact, put the dish that he did there, the bone marrow. He put that on his New Year's menus. Uh Brooks did his uh artichoke thing, I think, for a while. So uh it it it's uh it's a great thing for any cook to do, uh maybe not all the time, but you know, uh on occasion to take a challenge, uh take a set of constraints.
+
+[4:00] And cooking something vegan is just at a set of constraints. And so the guys at Del Posto uh really liked uh they really they really like cooking this kind of thing, and it actually is on the menu all the time. They have a customer they said who comes in quite often, and whenever that customer comes in, they revamp the vegan menu for them so it's not the same every time it comes in. This time, unfortunately, also macrobiotic, which listen uh you know I find it very difficult to not offend uh offend people, but uh not eating nightshades is crazy. No tomatoes, you're gonna go vegan.
+
+[4:31] Now you're all of a sudden you're not gonna have tomatoes, potatoes, or eggplants. I mean, please. You can do without the eggplant, you said. Well, you said, and I agreed. You said and I agreed.
+
+[4:41] I said, Do you like Baba Ganoush? And you said no. I said, Do you like do you like anything with that kind of no? She said no. Doesn't like bacon barda.
+
+[4:48] Uh she likes eggplant parmesan, but mostly for the fry, the mozzarella, and the uh anyway. Uh one thing I'll have to say is that is that they should have shifted into liquor earlier. Oh, yes. I I emailed uh what's his name and told him that. What's his name?
+
+[5:01] It's a nice shout out. Jeff Porter. There you go. See? See how much nicer it's it is to use somebody's name instead of I was like Mark.
+
+[5:11] Okay. So anyway, I'm here to report. Uh oh, uh so they said don't popularize it because even though they like cooking it, uh, and this is a challenge to uh vegans uh out there, or anyone with uh like that there's wine glasses right here in a stash. Oh, hello. Uh they to to with dietary things out there.
+
+[5:29] You have a uh reputation among chefs as being difficult human beings with which to work. And uh so the the their issue isn't that they don't like cooking the menu, their issue is that in general, to gener to generalize, the customers who order it can be problematic because they tend to not be people that are interested in food primarily. They're just there to get some you know, to to have a meal, and they have these restrictions in which they're working, but the food isn't the primary focus, and cooks prefer to cook for people who like food. Fair? Right.
+
+[6:03] And that's why they told us not to publicize it. Am I saying that without getting anyone in too much trouble? Yeah, you didn't use the exact language of what they called those people. Now now they're those people. What the vegan, so you say it then.
+
+[6:16] No, no, no. I'm not gonna say what they say. They did not insult vegan people. Anyways, my point is it was very good. Unfortunately, it was also macrobiotic, which to me, I mean, someone please call and tell me why macrobiotic stuff is not a bunch of hoo-ha.
+
+[6:28] Anyone, anyone call in. I know there's a lot of people out there who love microbiota. I had two shots of green of green stuff. I do not drink actually, we make a very good drink green drink at the bar. Yeah.
+
+[6:39] Not macrobiotic because you can't have distilled distilled liquor. Uh but uh yeah, those kind of like wheat grassy, like you know, uh one one of the drinks, no offense to Jeff there, because I think he was they bought it and they did it on purpose just to shaft me. Tasted like I had latched my mouth onto the uh exit chute of a lawnmower and was riding around the grass uh, you know, with a lawnmower attached to my mouth. But the meal itself uh was very, very good. What do you think?
+
+[7:05] It was good for what it was. So, what the hell is that? I would not go there and get it. Like people who want that get what they want. Get get a great meal, right?
+
+[7:15] Well, I thought I mean I thought it was a really good meal. Nastasha, first of all, is prejudice in this sense. When she goes to an Italian restaurant, if she doesn't leave with her gut busting open, she's like, it's not Italian. Italian food's supposed to be haughty, it's supposed to be a hearty food. You know what I mean?
+
+[7:30] And my point is that's not necessarily the case. It's it's sad. But so my point is that you you have a preconceived notion of what Italian should be and of what Del Posto should be. So you can't divorce yourself from that notion and just look at the food at which as it was presented. Sure.
+
+[7:50] What about you know, uh I thought that the flavors were very, very well balanced. There was nothing that I thought was lacking. There's a a lot of use of uh Hayumami um and like pro protein based things that weren't meat, like uh nutritional yeast, which was quite good. Um obviously a lot of mushrooms uh brought into it, a lot of uh very, you know, uh reduced root vegetables, things like that, things to and I thought everything was was delicious, I thought the textures were good, I thought it was well balanced. The one thing I don't didn't like were the uh raw snap peas on it because even though everyone everyone finds them delicious, except for me because of the raw, the raw starch taste, I do not like uh pea shoots either.
+
+[8:29] And I might be the only person on earth who does not like pea shoots. And uh because I don't like that raw, I don't like that raw taste. Well, part of the problem with me doing that raw diet last year. Yeah, I don't like it. You know what I mean?
+
+[8:41] Uh uh anyways, so I thought they did an amazing job. I liked it. Oh, yeah, we had an orange wine that was, I guess, uh, you know, which we'll we'll research more. I didn't research it uh a lot. And uh Nastash at that point was was dying for a drink.
+
+[8:55] Speaking of that speak speaking of dying for a drink, we have uh a wine here. You're gonna have to ask uh translate this. What's uh land of what's uh Chietti? Don't know. Thought you spoke Italian.
+
+[9:06] Now you forgot Italian too. I don't know, we can look it up. Oh my god. Anyway, it's called Passetti and it's pecorino. Now, pecorino, for all of you out there, obviously means goat.
+
+[9:16] So is this wine, Jack? Is this wine literally passed through a goat before it's put in a bottle? I can't confirm or deny that. Yeah? You can't, but I'm excited to try this.
+
+[9:26] It's from the barter house, though. Remember those guys? Uh I was about to say, these are from our good friends at the barter house. And uh I said this before. It's a province in Italy.
+
+[9:34] Really? There you go. Land of that province. Yeah, Chietti is a province. For uh for people who've been listening to the show forever, they're the same people who brought you booze.
+
+[9:42] Boozer! Yeah, so they're also bringing you wine passed through a goat. This is a uh a white wine. What's the what's the grape? Is there a grape called goat?
+
+[9:50] What the heck is this? And looking at it. So here's the deal. So the Barter House, for those of you that uh they haven't sponsored our show in a while, mainly because uh Modernist Pantry has been sponsoring our show for a long time. But we like the folks at the Barter House, and what they are is uh uh kind of a a s like a a specialty importer that imports wines, kind of unusual and interesting wine.
+
+[10:08] So they're not gonna carry a lot of the wines that you know that we're familiar with. Uh but uh one of the uh one of the good ways to see whether or not you should try a new wine in the store, and it's not just a barter house, find uh uh uh you know an importer, someone who brings in wines uh that uh you like, and in general, these people choose wines that they like that are interesting. So if you don't know the producer, you don't know the grape, you don't know the style, sometimes looking at the back and seeing who's bringing it in is a good indication of whether or not it'd be something interesting to try. And it's uh uh I think it's something that we don't do enough in wine stores. People don't think about the importers or the houses that choose wines that are the curate you know, the other selections that they're gonna bring over.
+
+[10:44] But I think it's a good way to try a new wine. So we're gonna uh Nastash and I, because it's so hot, we're gonna have this uh white wine that's been passed through a goat. Uh Passetti doesn't actually mean doesn't mean past pa Passato means past, right? So what does Passetti mean? This is their last name.
+
+[10:59] Oh, that's the name of the people? It's a m uh for a husband and wife team, Franco and Mima. Mima Passetti. So they so well hand me my glass so we can try this stuff, and we should get to some actual cooking issues here in a minute. Otherwise, this is gonna be a show just based on uh nonsense and drivel.
+
+[11:14] Let's try it. No offense to nonsense and drivel. Wait, what do you what do you think, Stas? It's really sweet, huh? It's not actually sweet, it's just not like hyper dry and crisp.
+
+[11:25] It's fine. Fine. What do you think, Dave? And what would you pair it with, Stas? I would pair it with uh with actually with peccarino cheese.
+
+[11:33] Uh you're such a low what? Whatever. That that brings me to another thing. Before we get into real stuff, you know, we've been there's been a lot of play recently, uh, on of recently like uh uh it on our show and nowhere else. On um on um the taste pairing hypothesis and this hypothesis where uh you know things that have similar molecules, not necessarily similar.
+
+[11:52] Nastasha apparently believes if you name something after a goat, it should go well with goat cheese. It's it's stuck in my head. But yeah, I think it would go well, don't you? Um I think almost everything goes well with peccarito. I like pepperato.
+
+[12:03] I don't know, like you know, it's one of those things that has enough acidity to it that uh it could go well with uh spicy or like an Asian thing. It's not gonna get totally cut down, it's not the structure of it isn't like a red that's gonna get obliterated. So I could I could see it with that. Asian thing. What the hell is that?
+
+[12:20] What the hell is that under your breath Asian thing? We go back to the biggest thing. Like a spicy thing. I'm thinking about it because we were at uh Pac Pac uh That was a New York Pac Pac Brooklyn. Yeah.
+
+[12:30] So now we become a review show where we're reviewing restaurants that we've been to over the past year. Well we only we only went to two in one day. It's like we don't do anything together. We don't go out to restaurants. Thank God.
+
+[12:40] Thank God. But uh uh my wife and I were at the table next to uh Nastasha Mark Ladner from Del Posto, Brooks, and her friend from Juilliard, Pat Patrick Posey. Uh and uh so uh this was this is Andy Rickers uh not Rick Tur, the comedian, Andy Ricker, the uh famous uh Portland, formerly Portland, now Portland and New York based uh chef who uh does Thai kind of uh in a different way than I've ever had it in New York and because I've never been to Thailand, so I can't call it authentic, but extremely delicious, extremely great uh food. And I I'd only ever had uh Pacpock Wing, which is his takeout joint in uh the Lower East Side, and his food at events. So it's the first time I got to go to a basically a full-scale restaurant uh of his, and I was uh frankly blown away.
+
+[13:29] I thought it was great. And um what do you think, Stas? Yeah, it was amazing. I hate Thai food. Well, okay, when Nastasha says she hates Thai food.
+
+[13:36] Those of you that have ever listened to this show knows that uh they know that Nastasha's crazy, basically. Uh here's what she doesn't like about here's what she says she doesn't like Thai food, here's what she means. I don't like lemongrass and I don't like coconut milk, right? And peanuts. I don't know, so what?
+
+[13:51] So there wasn't a lot of that in this food at all. Right. Anyway, but uh that's not my point. My point is is that Nastasha's crazy. And that this restaurant was great.
+
+[13:59] For instance, the thing that uh like uh the thing that blew me away is that he served an extremely spicy uh beef dish, I forget the name of it. Uh, you know, kind of ground uh meat, and next to it was just a plate of herbs, hoebs, uh, that were, and these herbs, they look like you know, a plate of herbs. And I uh I was starting to taste them, and they were unlike any herbs you'd ever tasted. Like when he came over, I I basically I had the waiter call him over because and Mark 2 was like uh you look. If you're in the business that I'm in or the market, you're not no one's supposed to be able to in New York City hand you a plate of herbs and have the first four things you taste off of be unlike anything that you've ever had and completely foreign to you, such that you have no idea what the hell's going on.
+
+[14:41] That just doesn't happen. Do you know what I mean? Like one or two new ingredients, whatever, uh or new ingredient, but something that's just totally foreign to you like that is crazy, right? Didn't you agree with that, Sas? And uh, like this one had the kind of tartness of a sorrel, but like a completely different taste.
+
+[14:56] I want to use that in a drink. He get like Andy gets it some guy in Florida, some basically I guess who smuggled seeds from Thailand to Florida and is growing these uh kind of insane Thai herbs in Florida and then shipping them up uh to uh Andy, and he he guess he gets them on consignment from this guy. I'm gonna try to get some for the bar for Booker and Dax. Uh but it's just uh just cra crazy stuff, good stuff. I recommend going.
+
+[15:20] Uh okay, enough with the restaurant reviews else, right? Oh, one more piece of news from Booker and Dax Land, and then I guess we should go to uh yeah, Booker and Dax. Well, it won't be ready for about a month, but we now have Booker and Dax, the company, not the bar, has its own space in the lower east side. So look out for us coming in uh doing some cool stuff in the lower side, correct? Yeah.
+
+[15:40] Yeah, yeah. It's a small space. Doesn't matter. Doesn't matter. It's a storefront, which is awesome.
+
+[15:44] It's our own space. So those are you you can stop by, like wave vegetables and at Nastasha in the window, and she can make her face for you in about a month. And with that, call your questions to 718-497 2128. That's 718-497-2128 cooking issues. And welcome back to Cognities.
+
+[16:53] By the way, today's show is gonna be brought to you by the Barter House. Yeah. Jack just told me. Oh, I didn't wouldn't pay attention. The Stoch's like, I don't know, I was playing Tetris.
+
+[17:02] Anyway, uh before I go on to some real issues, I want to talk about um the this uh book, Taste buds and molecules, about the flavor pairing hypothesis. So I've been basically saying for a while that I think that this flavor pairing hypothesis is bunk, whereby you know you take uh, you know foods that share specific flavor compounds, and therefore you can decide that they actually go well together. And it's uh it's a you know it's a technique that's gotten a lot of play recently, and so I kind of thought I'd go buy, and I you know, I I bought it. Uh a book called uh Taste buds and molecules, written by Francois uh Chatier, and I think it's how he pronounces his name. I don't know.
+
+[17:38] He's Cabacla. Uh, but he's done a lot of work in France, and uh he is like a true master sommelier. Like nobody argues the man knows his wine. And uh sometime in the early to mid uh 2000s, he um started working on this working on the idea of uh flavor pairing, looking up what components were in a wine, the aromatics of wine. And a lot of that stuff is readily actually available because a lot of studies have been done uh on it due to wine quality issues, and so a lot of uh food studies have been done on it.
+
+[18:09] Uh and also uh what uh when those same molecules appear in foods and has built a structure of uh tastings and and basically food pairings based on uh what you know what he calls his his res his research into those into those things. And the result uh is this book, Taste buds and molecules, which also has like a lot of crazy kind of graphical elements. And so uh I bought it thinking that I was going to uh hate it, right? Uh and there are many things about it that uh that I uh disagree with, but I have to say that he uh I mean he clearly uh you know understands and he clearly you know from everything I've read about him, I've never had dinner with him or anything, but has a very good palate, right? So this isn't in other words, it's not something where someone is just saying, hey, look it.
+
+[19:00] Uh here's a bunch of stuff that I saw on a piece of paper, and therefore they're gonna go well together, even though I haven't developed a palate. He's coming at it from the direction that I think is a good one, namely uh he had spent years and years developing his palate, right? His nose, his palate, his senses, and then after those years, uh then used uh these kind of pieces of research as a further tool to uh f to get inspiration in areas he hadn't already looked. Basically to to ha uh something to help the light bulb or the chime in his head say, Yes, these two things would go well together, and to give him kind of the confidence to put two things together that wouldn't ordin ordinarily be put together. And so, uh to that extent, you know, yes, I think it could be used as a as a valid uh valid thing, and I actually ended up liking um like liking like what he was saying more than I thought I would.
+
+[19:55] But uh uh on the flip side, I mean, and I think this is part of kind of like the, you know, because the book was published in French first, that that kind of writing. It's a little more kind of florid and it kind of takes things a lot a lot further than I would like and kind of makes much more sweeping comments about uh, you know, what he's doing and w the the the concepts behind it uh than I would I would like. And so, you know, when I'm working on the cocktail book, I gotta guard against that too, not making these kind of sweeping statements. My problem is when any of these things become sort of dogmatic or almost become a a religion, the way you know what I mean, the way that people kind of treat the uh new concepts. But uh interesting book.
+
+[20:33] Um so there's there's that. It's my last word on on uh on the flavor pairing uh hypothesis uh for today. Now, on to some uh questions we come in. Hello from Osaka, Japan. We're going to Japan soon.
+
+[20:46] Nastasha and I going to Tokyo to work in the park Hyatt. We're gonna be working there for four days, right? Plus a fifth press day. Yeah. And I'm hoping to get the like I want the most butt kicking Japanese stuff.
+
+[20:59] I don't want any stuff that I can get here in the States. I mean, I do. I want to see like how much better all the stuff that they say is better there. I want to get all that when I'm there, but I want some stuff that you cannot get here. I mean, you know what I mean?
+
+[21:12] Mm-hmm. You with me on this? They're taking you, they're taking us to the market. And there's a big fruit market next to it. I'm gonna go bonkers.
+
+[21:21] And they're with their credit card? Yeah, yeah. Oh man, I'm a dangerous person with someone else's credit card. That's as soon as you arrived. We're going straight there.
+
+[21:30] So I better sleep on. I can't sleep on planes. I'll have to drink like eight loads of espresso, just make like an hour trip to the bathroom and then uh and then we'll go off into it, right? Okay. Hello from Osaka, Japan.
+
+[21:41] I have two questions. I'm interested in buying a refractometer to use in the field as well as in the kitchen. Some things I would like to be able to do are measure the salinity of a brine to know when it has reached equilibrium, measure the sugar content of produce in the field to know when to harvest, measure the sugar quantity of produce to determine which provider has the best product. Can one refractometer be used to measure salinity as well as bricks? Do you have any recommendation for refractometers?
+
+[22:02] Are electronic bricks meters better than optical refractometers? Okay. Uh here's the thing. I've used both uh uh electric ones. We have uh one manufactured by the Hannah Corporation, uh, as well as manual ones.
+
+[22:17] The for the field, I mean the thing is you don't want to be caught out in the field with one and have it break. I mean, the the the the optical ones are fairly bulletproof. I mean, Nastasha did break one of mine. She like shattered the uh the I don't know how the heck she did it. She broke it.
+
+[22:32] No one else has ever broken. She broke the little flip down screen that goes on. Uh the handheld ones, the ones that are not um electronic, are uh a lot cheaper. They're like thirty, thirty-two bucks to get the ones on eBay. They work fine.
+
+[22:46] You need light, you know what I mean? And you need to be able to see through the product somewhat to be able to do it uh, you know, to use them properly. Uh those ones, I've never seen one that'll do both salinity and uh bricks. However, well, you know, you can get um just uh a bricks one and which measures sugar content, and uh get one that is for salinity, and they're fairly small and they're fairly cheap. So you can get two of them, right, for much less than the cost of one good electronic one.
+
+[23:18] I really like the electronic one for just speed of use and not having, especially in the bar to worry about light. You do have to with the electronic ones hold your hand sometimes over the measurement uh device so that you don't get errant light problems. If there's too much ambient light, uh you can't uh work with it. The electronic ones are better for just crushing up some juice, even if it has particles and throwing on because they're not as thrown off by that and they're easier to read. You can read something in an electronic one that there's a really cute kid looking in through our window, by the way.
+
+[23:47] She's pressing her nose against it and we're waving to the window. Uh there's a uh she's wearing some sort of purple flowery thing. Yeah, very cute. Anyway, uh the uh so the electronic ones are better at measuring things that you couldn't necessarily because in a handheld one, you have to be able to flap the glass down. Uh the the the plastic piece that goes over the reading prism.
+
+[24:06] You have to be able to flap it down and get good contact before you can get a good reading. And you don't need to do that with the uh with the with the handheld uh electronic ones. Uh I do think that the handle electronic ones might break a little easier. The Hannah ones that I have are only calibrated for bricks, right? You could, you could and mine is what I like about mine is that especially if you're going to be using something for a long time in a lot of different fields, and you might be measuring juice one day uh or sh or fruit one day and syrups the next, is that mine, my electronic one goes from zero bricks to eighty five percent bricks, which is really nice.
+
+[24:40] And there are handheld uh optical ones that have a very wide range, but the problem is is that those wide range ones, it's hard to get a very accurate reading because the scale is the same length no matter what you do. And so then you have the issue of not being able to uh to to discern fine differences in bricks. Now there are also triple scale manual uh refractometers. I've never used one, uh, and those apparently you can get the accuracy you want in in several different scale ranges, but uh they tend to be more expensive. So instead of like $32, you're talking about $100, $150, and you can get a decent uh uh electric one, electronic one on eBay for not eBay on uh Amazon or whatnot for you know around that price.
+
+[25:25] What do we pay? Two sixty two sixty for a zero to eighty-five. Now, there is a company I don't have theirs, unfortunately, called uh I believe Spare is the company, but you can look it up that has um different uh different ranges in the same refractometer, and they will actually program three custom ranges into your refractometer for you so you could get a zero to eighty-five bricks uh refractometer, and at the same time get a salinity meter, and all it's basically doing is changing the calibration within the unit so that you can measure using the same instrument. Another thing you could do is use your bricks refractometer and then carefully make uh uh things of the proper salinity, right? Measure what the bricks is on it, and then you can hit that number every time, even though you're using a brick scale.
+
+[26:12] So you can correct bricks to salinity. Uh and it's hard sometimes to find the published papers for that on the internet, but you can also do that. Um the last thing I would caution about refractometers in general is that you you know you're going to have a uh a lot of people make mistakes on refractometers and they think that you can measure uh bricks and other things in mixed medium. Remember, all that the all that the refractometer is measuring is uh how what the difference in uh refraction is as light is passed through uh a liquid. So what happens is different liquids have different refractive indexes, they bend light a different amount.
+
+[26:47] And refractometer is measuring uh typically how much uh your liquid bends light relative to water. And so um they can only what bricks is measuring is dissolved sugar, but it anything that changes, any solute, anything that's dissolved in it is going to change it. So if you have alcohol, which changes uh the angle of refraction, right? If all you have is alcohol, then you can use a refractometer to measure how much alcohol is in the water. If all you have is alcohol and water.
+
+[27:14] If all you have is sugar in water, then you can measure how much uh the sugar, how much sugar there is in the water using a refractometer. If all you have is salt and water, same. If you have salt and sugar, you cannot, because there's no way to figure out what the what uh each component is doing to the refractive index independently unless you can measure one of the variables. Same thing with ethanol and sugar, which is why you can't use a refractometer to measure uh something like Quantro, uh, because it's got both sugar and alcohol in it. So uh there are uh you know limitations to what uh a refractometer can do for you because it's only measuring one quantity, how much uh uh light is bent as it travels uh through uh your medium.
+
+[27:58] So uh I mean I hope that helps. But if you know, if I could go back, because the spare one's only like an extra fifty dollars, but it wasn't on Amazon, I would get the multi-range uh electronic bricks unit that does zero to eighty-five. They have a wide scale one. I'm I think it's spare, but you know, whatever. Uh SPER, I think.
+
+[28:13] I'm not sure. Uh uh, I would get there one that that does the full range from zero to eighty-five. That's gonna do 99% of any of the sugar work you want. And and they will also do a custom scale. So if you wanted to do I don't know what you're doing for a living, but let's say you're a distiller or something and you also need to measure or a wine fermenter and you also need to measure glycol.
+
+[28:31] You could have a glycol scale in there so that you can make your glycol solutions, which you would use for anti-free when you're using like chilling. If you have a chiller and you need to do glycol, you could put a glycol scale in and a salinity scale. So you could choose any three scales. If it was me, I would have bricks, salinity, and uh ethanol percentage uh for distilled spirits. I would have those three on it, and then you'd have one refractometer and you'd be good forever.
+
+[28:52] But you might want to back it up with uh a manual one. The manual one, most people get a zero to thirty-two bricks if you're doing fruit, uh, and uh much higher fractomer, much higher bricks level if you're doing um anything like sugars or or syrups. Because remember, simple syrup, one-to-one simple syrup is running about 50 bricks, right? So you can't measure it on a standard zero to 32 bricks uh uh refractometer. Bricks is basically just percentage of the solution that is sucrose, right?
+
+[29:19] Uh and if you're doing uh two to one simple syrup, you're up at 66 bricks, and so it you can get uh you know the zero to thirty-two is of limited use in a bar, right? Right, Saz? Yeah, that's why you bought the zero to eighty-five for us. Yes. And we're quite happy with it, yes?
+
+[29:32] Yes. Yeah. Another piece of equipment we have at the bar, we're very happy with now is we bought uh best $65. That's not true. What the fuck?
+
+[29:39] I'm just lying. It's a good $65. Not the best $65 I've ever spent. The best $65 I ever spent was on my wife's wedding ring. Boom!
+
+[29:46] Kidding. Uh he's not lying. Yeah, I'm a cheap bastard. Uh but uh, yeah, no, it's a good sixty-five dollars. Uh, I bought a zero to five milliliter um basically micropipette, and it's just it's super accurate.
+
+[30:02] So we use it to dose all of uh our uh like our our wine finding agents, Kesel Salt, and Kito San. And also uh when we're making small batches of things to correct things for salinity and whatnot, we can add small amounts that we can then reproduce when we scale it up. So I really like the micropipette uh and we stole that idea from our friend Tony Connigliaro, not the famous dead baseball player from uh you you know the story of Tony Cunliaro? Very famous Tony C, they call him because also Americans. Oh in in America, it's Canigliaro, by the way.
+
+[30:32] So Tony, the baseball player was Tony Canigliaro, not Tony Connigliaro, the bartender, right? But he was like one of the like slated to be one of the best baseball players of all time, was in fact very good, played for the uh for the Bosox, and got he crowded the plate all the time and got hit in the head with a beaner and like almost like I think I put him in a comb. He's in the hospital for a long time, never the same. Never the same. By the way, what Nastasha is actually doing, the the work she's doing is looking up pictures of the chauffeur from Downton Abbey on uh I'm look- I looked over to see like what kind of thing she's looking up about the event I'm doing in Germany that we're gonna talk about after the next break.
+
+[31:08] And she's looking up, she's looking up the chauffeur, kind of like the the least sympathetic character on Downton Abbey. Because not the least sympathetic, but I mean no, no, no, it's not what it's it's what the stars look like out of costume. That's true. But you've already seen that. I know, but I was crazy.
+
+[31:24] This is what I deal with people on a daily basis. All right. The second question from Osaka from John is are there antioxidants that are fat soluble as well as temperature stable up to temperatures around 180 degrees Celsius? Failing that, what is the best practice when storing fats to keep them in their best condition? Two applications I'm interested in are we using very expensive tempura oil and keeping schmaltz without oxidizing.
+
+[31:44] Any thoughts? Schmaltz, I love schmaltz. Chicken fat is delicious. I've never been to one of the old school restaurants in New York that has schmaltz on the table, like one of the old closure restaurants. Because you can't have butter on the table.
+
+[31:55] Because you can't serve butter in a steakhouse. You can have schmaltz. I have I freaking love chicken fat. Um so what could you what can you do? Well, uh I I meant to I forgot that this question had been asked when I saw it last night, so I didn't look up the specific things that are added.
+
+[32:09] But typically uh if you buy uh commercial fry oil, they have uh an antioxidant um in them, uh some sort of like vitamin E tocopheral based thing that's fat soluble that prevents oxidation in the oil. Uh and that is very helpful and stable up to frying temperatures. Uh I'll I'll try to look it up during the break, or Nastasha can try to look it up now instead of looking up uh Downton Abbey's before and after pictures. Uh but the um uh and and that's why I say commercial fry oil is uh much, much better than any of the stuff that we buy in the supermarket, uh, because it lasts just a boatload longer and tastes a lot cleaner. They also in commercial fry oils do something that you can't do in a home oil uh, which is they they uh specifically and temporal oil might be like this, they specifically tailor the fatty acid uh um mix in it to have uh only those fatty acids that are fairly temperature stable and oxidation uh resistant.
+
+[33:04] That said, obviously the things that cause oil to break down uh most are if you get a salt in the oil, which is you know sometimes you know unavoidable, uh allowing uh burnt particles to stay in the bottom of the oil while you're cooking, if you don't have a commercial fryer with a cold zone at the bottom, which tempura doesn't work that way, by the way, which is crazy. Uh but whatever. Uh or um if you um so those are those are the main things. You also like it's best to use, and this again goes against the way I've seen most tempura done, but you really want uh a very low surface area to uh volume ratio on uh on your um on the oil because then you have less uh air contact. You want uh as little foaming as possible, so not a lot of like uh a lot of high water stuff dripping in.
+
+[33:48] Anything that basically is gonna promote a large large amount of oxygen getting into the oil. Also, clearly you don't want any uh reactive metals like iron touching um the stuff because that's gonna that's gonna mess with you. Uh and you want to, as soon as it cools down enough, filter it. And you could you could uh you know, vacuum, you guys you could vacuum pack it or like put it in bottles and then like suck the air out of it to prevent any any sort of oxidation from taking place. Uh but those are the kinds of things uh that I would do.
+
+[34:19] Uh the the worst thing though, I see breakdown on oil, especially when it's done in a home fryer is temperature cycling. And there's just very little you can do to prevent temperature cycling, except for you know the commercial fryers are really what's going to stop you from doing a lot of temperature cycling. Other than that, you could get an induction unit that keeps the oil at a relatively even temperature that has like basically a temperature controller in it that's you know keeping the oil tolerances fairly tight, and then not overloading the oil so that you don't have to get the um you don't have to have as much of a temperature drop, so you don't need as high of a thermal input to do the instant recovery, and that's gonna cause you to have less thermal cycling on your oil, and that's gonna increase the uh the lifetime uh significantly. In a home frying situation, it's crap floating to the bottom, burning and destroying the oil, salt, but most importantly, temperature cycling that is really killing your oil at a ferocious rate. Uh and those are the things I would do.
+
+[35:11] I don't know about are you looking up the uh the vitamin E, the tocofurol based stuff? Or are we still on down adding? No, no, I was doing the Germany stuff. Alright, well, okay. So why don't we do this?
+
+[35:20] We'll take a commercial break and we'll see whether Nastasha can find that stuff on the internet's cooking issues. Am I back? Yeah. Alright. So uh it turns out that uh I wasn't able to look it up over the commercial break, but we'll try to find some specific thing that you can go buy in a store to drop into your oil to add as uh an antioxidant.
+
+[36:41] So Nastasha, what's this event that I'm doing in uh in El Germany next week? It's called Academia Del Ron, and it's uh the Havana Club event. And you will be there from you arrive Monday morning and you leave Thursday. Well, I don't I don't know that people need to know my schedule. What am I talking about there?
+
+[36:59] We're talking about yeast in alcohol. Yeah. So here here's the deal. So they asked me to do uh they asked me to do this uh event on uh rum and I said fine, but they they like I you know I feel like I spend a lot of time trying to become like well versed in in several things, but the effect of yeast on rum, like I can think of at least five other people that I know personally who know more about this than I do, right? Yeah.
+
+[37:27] But yet that's what they wanted me to talk about. See, people make the mistake of uh and I'm not saying anything against it, but people make the mistake of thinking that I'm a scientist. I'm not. I'm like a gearhead cook that can read science papers, right? So like I don't feel like I'm the guy to sit there and talk to you about uh like any sort of actual research that I've done or anything because it's just not the case.
+
+[37:48] So over the past week and a half I read, I don't know, several hundred pages on the effects of yeast on different uh uh uh different you know on fermentation products, and I've learned a boatload about it, but I still am not an expert in the field on this. So what we what I had to do was I just basically took a bunch of molasses. I couldn't get the molasses I like, which is Crosby's molasses, which is a They never got back to me. Those bastards that email that you were like they never got back? Crosby's molasses, for any of you who have ever been in the uh in the in Northeast New England or Maine, Crosby's molasses is the one molasses that I've had that you're like, my god is that delicious molasses.
+
+[38:25] Like I would pour that. You know how like you ever listen to Louie Jordan? You ever listen to Louis Jordan? Mm-hmm. Louis Jordan, you know the song Is You Is Is You Ain't My Baby or Caldonia or Beware any of those?
+
+[38:33] That's Louie Jordan. Like big in the forties, you know, kind of uh kind of cocktail, kind of like, you know, like, you know, whatever. Like uh anyway, like uh uh musician. Uh you know, musician, anyway. Beans and cornbread, you know that song?
+
+[38:44] Beans and cornbread, you know that? Anyway, Louis Jordan. So uh Louie Jordan, what the hell was I talking about Louis Jordan for? What were we talking about? Fermentation.
+
+[38:55] Yeah, but how the hell do I get on Louis Jordan? Molasses. Molasses. So he's like uh in the beans and cornbread song, it goes goes together like hotcakes and molasses, and you're like hotcakes and molasses. Who the hell would put molasses on pancakes?
+
+[39:07] And then you and then once you've had Crosby's molasses, you realize why. But those dumb bastards from Crosby's, they're up in Canada. And by the way, I love you Canadians, but you're a lazy group of people, just kidding. Kidding! He's not.
+
+[39:21] Just kidding. Anyway, uh, but they won't distribute outside of uh New England. We had to mail her, so I couldn't. So we wrote them a nice well, you wrote them a nice email from me in response to how great their molasses are. Yeah, sell it down here.
+
+[39:33] No response back. Crosby's molasses is so delicious. Like when you next time you're in Maine or wherever, over there, up up there in New England Way, get some Crosby's molasses and tell me you don't think that's the most delicious molasses that you've ever had. I mean, I don't know, maybe in the Caribbean, they maybe they have some delicious molasses. I don't know.
+
+[39:50] But as far as in the continental US, it's the most delicious molasses I've ever had. Anyway, so we didn't use that. We used some sort of like molasses, and we're distilling our own I distill I fermented using two separate yeasts. Now, when you're when you're actually doing rum and you're using wild yeast fermentation, there's it's not just uh saccharomyces uh cervace, which is the normal beer, you know, brewer's yeast, of which there's a bazillion strains, each of which have different uh produce different flavors. Uh but there's like uh uh I forget the names of them, like schiz schizo, you know, schizosacros sacramises cervesi.
+
+[40:21] There's like uh there's uh there's a whole bunch of different yeast strains, like five or six uh not strains, uh you know, actual genus species, uh, and then a zillion strains all of which produce different flavors it turns out most of the flavoral difference in a fermentation a lot of the fur a flavoral difference is due to um the yeast right so think about it this way Nastasha if you've ever had have you ever had wine grapes yeah like to eat yeah yeah yeah wine grapes don't taste like wine right it's very difficult to like if you taste like uh pinot noir grapes you're not like oh I get it you know what I mean that all of the like the the most of the flavors that are in there in Pinot Noir are there as precursors right that that you can't taste then the fermentation and the different yeasts that are used bring out the real character so a lot of the flavor is due to the due to the uh the yeast it's just I don't happen to be an expert in that but that's what I'm gonna be talking about in the I think people ask you to talk about these things because you're able to understand it and explain it in an interesting and exciting way. Well that's very charitable. So the that's your special thing for the week. Yeah so uh that's that's that's the one nice thing Nastash is gonna say to me all week so anyway so over the course of the week we're gonna have to uh go out and illegally distill the uh the molasses fermentation we have by the way molass fermented molasses tastes horrible though this black strap molasses stuff tasted horrible tasted like iron I was told by uh our friend Chris who's opening a new beer bar in New York called proletariat proletariat well Nastasha gave the the proletariat face she hates the vegans and the people about your MTV uh your MTV Belvedere drink did you guys talk more about that yesterday? No.
+
+[42:02] Do you tell me about it? The Red Bull that you're gonna make. Oh, Nastasha signed us up to do a jersey jersey shore. For those of you that don't have the don't have like uh haven't been outside. There's a show called Jersey Shore, which I actually haven't seen, but I saw the thing on YouTube where the guy punched the lady out.
+
+[42:18] That's Snooky, right? Yeah. Anyways, I haven't seen the show. Have you seen the show? Small.
+
+[42:22] You have I actually watched an episode. This is serious. Like last week I watched an episode for the first time. It's good. It's a funny show.
+
+[42:30] Yeah? It's a funny show. I'm pro. Well, one of our favorite lawyers is from the Jersey Shore. Yes.
+
+[42:34] Vadim. Good guy. Yeah, good guy. Anyway, um, so um Nastasha signed us up to do an MTV party with uh uh Evan Freeman. Uh and uh it's gonna be a Jersey Shore party, and so Nastasha wants us to do a high-end vodka Red Bull.
+
+[42:49] Yeah. Yeah. So we're working on it, but I don't know what Red Bull, I don't I don't really know much about Red Bull. No, we need a look, we need a we need to look it up. Yeah.
+
+[42:58] Yeah, yeah, we'll we'll take that stuff up. Anyway. Uh oh, by the way, uh we got some shout out from uh John who asked the two questions on Osaka says, uh loves the show, thank you. With so much, and this is uh in general about the world. Here we go.
+
+[43:09] Uh with so much knowledge, this is John talking. With so much knowledge being spread around, I don't think there's uh ever been a more exciting time to be a cook. In Japan, it was commonly accepted that the price you pay to become a cook is your youth. That's kind of nicely said. Uh in five years, I've been able to learn what would normally take ten, and on top of that, I know the why behind the how, which seems to be a very uncommon thing in Japan.
+
+[43:30] Whoa, boom. I'm gonna have to have some talks about that when we're in Japan, huh? Uh how uh behind the how uh seem to be very uncommon in Japan. So here is a thank you for you guys and everyone else sharing what they know. And it's true.
+
+[43:41] The week would not have what's going on today without the increase in um kind of sharing of information that's been made possible by you know the it's not it's it it is the internet, like obviously it's obviously it's the internet, internet, but um I think it's other things. I think that um and I have had some conversations with some European chefs, uh, especially in America, but also among uh Spanish, just an ex like this extreme desire to share what people know and to be generous with ideas that it it is in the cook community. You know what I mean? Yeah. Do you agree?
+
+[44:16] Yeah. But for instance, uh Tim Raua, the Michelin starred chef in uh in uh the Germany, which is where I'll be next. Hey, he's in Berlin. Maybe I should see him when I'm in Berlin. Anyway, he uh he um he said in Germany the chefs don't like they don't like hang out and give each other ideas.
+
+[44:32] Weird, huh? Too bad. Too bad, too bad. Okay. Hey, Dave, Nastasha, and Jack.
+
+[44:37] Jack, you got the shout-out on this one. Uh this is uh uh you know something know who it's from, Nastash, you gotta look this up. Oh, from Tony Harrion from Mixing Bar in Brazil. Uh I read a post on Alcademics, our good friend uh Camper English, the uh blogger. Uh I read this post on Alcademics about the production of Quantro, because he visited the Quantro distillery that says, uh when they add water to reduce Quantro to proof, the essential oils in the peel, because it's Quantro's orange peel uh distillation along with neutral grain spirit, cause the liquor to loosh to get cloudy, like when you add water to absinthe.
+
+[45:05] They centrifuge the quantum to make it clear again, which I did not know. Uh the same happens, and this is uh now it's it's uh Tony talking. The same happens when we rotovap citrus peels and other spices and dilute it to proof. Other than the centrifuge, what can be done to separate the compounds that fall out of solution when you dilute liquids with high concentrations of essential oils? Can you think of any other way to stabilize or avoid the precipitation or loosh without the centrifuge?
+
+[45:29] Uh and then how good does your centrifuge need to be to achieve loose separation in G's or RPM? Uh lastly, to make liquors in this fashion, do you recommend adding water to reduce the proof and then adding the sugar, or use a weak sugar syrup or both at once, with or without the centrifuge as a step? Love the show, keep up keep up the great work. Cheers, Tony Harry, and from Mixing Bar in Brazil, which when I go to Brazil, we got well, we gotta find someone who will pay to get us to Brazil. And then after we do that, we'll visit them.
+
+[45:55] Yeah? Yeah. Okay. One, by the way, uh, this is anyone who wants to get the cooking issues crew down to uh Brazil, keep this in mind. I don't know what it costs for a plane ticket down there, but uh poly science circulators are twice the cost uh in Brazil as they are here.
+
+[46:12] So, what we can do, if you want a circulator, right? If you can find some company to pay for us, we can buy the circulators here, bring them down uh as personal equipment for the events, and then do a swap down there. Just saying. And you might need help carrying them, so you know I'm here. Yeah, yeah, just saying.
+
+[46:28] Just saying, just an idea for all you people in Brazil. If you're trying to get around the tax problem of getting a circulator into the country, and you know a company that wants to ship a bunch of tech knuckleheads down there to talk to them. About a thousand dollars a person to get down there. Which about the break even. Yeah.
+
+[46:43] You break even. You're fast. Yes. Well, uh, with that, when it comes to getting a Nastasha trip to Brazil, blinding speeding. Blinding!
+
+[46:50] Ask her about tocoferol. What? What's that? Crickets are in the background. Jesus.
+
+[46:55] All right. Uh here's my feeling, Tony. Um, I have this happen a lot. Uh, with uh, I mean, we do it we do a uh distillate because Thai basil is like my one of my favorite beverage uh flavors. So we do one that's Thai basil, orange, cucumber, and uh and a little bit of cilantro, and that thing looses out and goes white like very quickly.
+
+[47:15] I think it's uh not so much the orange peel now, because we don't add a lot. I think it's uh probably the uh anethal, which is the same thing that's causing loosing and a pastise because there's a good bit of that in Thai basil, you know, that licorice flavor. Uh by the way, in that ta taste buds and molecules book, like one of the interesting things is that there's a uh I think it's Estragol is a compound that that shared that's in fennel. Uh actually one of those compounds is in apple to a certain amount. Maybe it's this is the thing that the book actually gave me some interesting concepts.
+
+[47:44] Harold McGee and I, years ago when we went to uh Geneva, he Harold McGee's gonna be in town later this week. Harold McGee. Uh we're gonna eat Surstrawing with Nils, gotta set that up. Um on my wife's birthday, though. It might be problematic.
+
+[47:55] Uh the um so we had some apples that grew on the tree that had a huge fennel note to them, and then the fennel dissipated very quickly, but probably due probably to that volatile molecules. Anyway, so like that book actually brought up some interesting stuff in my head, brought back some taste memories I had, so anyway, kudos to that, whatever. Uh uh I when you dilute them to proof, they're gonna loosh out. Um I've had ones that I I've done that to and then let sit for several months, and they uh they basically they separate over time as well. Uh my feeling is I don't know it uh here's the thing.
+
+[48:30] Whenever I've tasted these uh these these things straight out of the centrifuge, I mean sorry, straight out of the roto vap. I love the flavor of them fresh so much that I wouldn't wanna kind of I wouldn't want to change them, and I don't mind the I don't mind the the looshing, I don't mind the pastise effect. I kinda like it. It's kind of a signature of that you made this product and that it has so much like of these essential oils in it that they can't be held in solution when the proof goes um up. Instead of diluting to proof, I would I almost always keep my, unless I'm gonna serve it straight, like an Aka Vit, uh I almost always, and that I I've had Akavitz that go go white on me because we get so much uh so much essential oil in them from the rotovap.
+
+[49:15] I almost always keep them at rotovat proof, which for us is between um a buck and a buck twenty, so about sixty percent. And we keep it there uh until we're about to use it and then let it loosh out, and uh it it's more stable on the flavor. If you don't want to do that, I don't know how I don't think it would take that many G's, but I think it would take quite a long time because the particles when you're loosing are very, very small. Uh and so you have to wait for them to kind of coalesce aggregate and become larger before you can get them to settle out. So I think probably centrifuging and time um are needed.
+
+[49:50] Another hard part about throwing in the centrifuge is that you remember these are these are oils and they float to the top. And so you um that's my guess, it would float to the top. Uh and so when you spin them, you be in this position of siphoning them off the top or getting the stuff out of the bottom, which may or may not be a difficulty because they're not going to go solid if you freeze it the same way that I can do with nut oils or coconut oil. Uh so anyway, so uh those are those are my those are my thoughts uh on that. Okay.
+
+[50:20] Uh last question in, because apparently we have to wrap it up because you know, Jack's got other things to do. Other shows. Other shows. Okay. Uh five.
+
+[50:29] Five fifth questions, apparently today. Although, why do you number them? Because I don't ever do them in order anyway. Like, why put numbers on them? What do you want instead?
+
+[50:35] I don't know. I don't know. Anyway, this does people don't care. I don't know why I asked. Okay, Andrew writes in and says, uh, what is your I have actually two things.
+
+[50:43] Uh what is your recipe for pressure cooked mustard caviar? I cannot seem to find one online by you yourself. Thanks, Andrew. Here's my recipe. Uh pressure cooked um mustard seeds are awesome.
+
+[50:53] They pop like caviar, they're delicious. Even Nastasha likes them, and she hates everything I cook. Uh it's not true. You don't know, I'm just messing with her because I can. Okay.
+
+[50:59] First thing with the mustard seed, I use the yellow mustard seeds. I blanch them uh quickly in a couple of uh like two two times or three times in boiling water for a couple seconds apiece to get rid, it does get rid of some of the pungency, so much so that um you can almost get away with not pressure cooking, but it's not the same thing. We've done the test, right? Um, but it gets rid of some of the dirty, musty taste that I don't really like in a mustard seed. Um we blanch horseradish as well beforehand to get rid of some of that earthy uh taste.
+
+[51:31] Then you pressure cook them afterwards in straight vinegar. I use distilled vinegar. I pressure cook them for between 15 and 20 minutes at second ring in excess vinegar. They're gonna soak up a lot of vinegar, so you don't want to go light on the vinegar. Then you drain them, and while they're hot, you stir in.
+
+[51:50] Uh I use white, you can use whatever you want, but I use white granulated sugar to taste. The sugar will dissolve in with the vinegar that's still on the outside of the mustard seed. Don't want to add the vinegar beforehand, it's going to become a goopy mess. Uh add the vinegar after it's cooked and drinked while it's still warm, hot, but preferably, and uh, and just keep tasting it. Then you pack it in its residual juice.
+
+[52:11] You can see if you save a little bit of vinegar, you can add a little bit in a quart container, and it lasts for a long time. So that's that recipe. And we have one other suggestion in before I leave because I'd be remiss. We had a question last week regarding uh thermocouple probes, and uh our good listener, Elliot Papineau, uh called in a response and said, I use a dual probe alarm meter from WW dot thermoor uh thermoworks.com. Uh and it's a cool dupe dual probe uh thermocouple thermometer.
+
+[52:38] Uh, and they have some cool looking probes. The probes aren't cheap, but the thermometer is, so there you have it. Elliot likes it. Tell us whether you like it too. See you next week, hopefully, from Germany, Cooking Issues.
+
+[52:57] Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening.
+
+[53:21] You got my head all twisted.
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+[0:02] Broadcasting live from Roberta's in Bushwick Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live in the back of Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick Brooklyn on the Heritage Radio Network. Joining the studio as always. Nastasha the Hammer Lopez.
+
+[0:34] How are you doing, Sas? Fine, how are you? Alright, Nastasha's trying to contact someone to set up one of our eight billion events. How many events do we have this day? Too many.
+
+[0:41] How many do we have today? Only one today. Yeah, but Bobby Flay's gonna be at the bar at six filming. I know, but not we're not, we won't be there. But you should be there, and our starts at six.
+
+[0:53] But no one knows what we're talking about. Nastasha's like, and my f and my brother Phil, he was no, no one knows who we're talking about. Mr. Tam is the contractor at the new Booker in DAX space. I mean, nice to speak on the air.
+
+[1:04] You know, I can't wait 15 minutes to tell me off the air. It's okay. Fifty. Fifteen. We go on break every 15 minutes.
+
+[1:10] No brains. Also joined with Jack, Intrepid Jack. How you doing, brother? I'm good. Good.
+
+[1:16] Calling all your questions live to 718497-2128. That's 718497-2128. Uh missed you guys last week because uh I was in Germany and we couldn't get the scheduling going uh with the you know, because I was actually I think teaching something or doing some sort of judging during the actual radio program. Uh but had a good time in Germany, didn't get to have any really good solid real German German food because I didn't have time to go out to any kind of good restaurants, which is not good. I went out to good restaurants.
+
+[1:44] I didn't go out to like a hardcore German German restaurant. I love German food. Stuz, you like the German food? I love German food. Yeah.
+
+[1:50] Oh, you know why? Why? Right. Because it's hearty. Yes.
+
+[1:53] You you love some hearty, hearty food. Um did uh was interesting. The contest I was judging was for a Havana Club, which uh you know is a rum. There is a Havana Club rum here in the United States, but it's not the actual Havana Club. The actual Havana Club is made in Havana and therefore we can't get it in the United States, which is kind of an irritant.
+
+[2:10] But you know, they gotta straighten that crap out soon how long can we hold a grudge against those guys? Don't know. I mean it's been like it's been like what like uh see 40, 50, like 50 50 years almost 50? 50 freaking years we've been holding a grudge against these guys. I mean I don't really care about the cigars one way or the other but it would be nice to get the rum in.
+
+[2:29] You know you can take planes there apparently now quite much more easily than you did before. You don't you don't need to like pretend it used to be to take a plane from Cuba there was like like two planes a day or something like that and you had to pretend that you were a journalist or some sort of crazy nonsense but apparently now it's okay. Spent a good deal of time when I was in Germany with uh Ryan I'm not gonna pronounce his last name right he's the he's another C last name from London so I can pronounce Connellaro for some reason I can do that. But Ryan's last name from the Worship Street whistling shop used to work with Tony actually Tony C at 69 ready Cheta Cheteya Wardana. Whoa it's hardcore even he says he can't pronounce his name properly and check this out he's doing some interesting stuff like he's uh you might know uh some of the uh bar stuff he's doing because he has like a balloon that he has a uh like a lemon I think essence sprayed on he then like lights a string the balloon flies up in the air and explodes over your head like as he serves you the drink interesting stuff he's uh aging uh aging drinks with uh radioactivity he's like handing them to uh you know people who are I guess doing radiation experiments either for food or for medicine and you know nuking the hell out of stuff to see whether he can accelerate age.
+
+[3:34] Interesting stuff uh I look forward next time in London to uh go to the to the bar. Uh anyways, so what was I talking about? I'm just talking about Ryan. Is that right? Ryan.
+
+[3:43] Oh, anyways, check this out. Dude's from Dude's family. I mean, he's you know, he's British, right? Dude's family from Sri Lanka hates spice. Wow.
+
+[3:51] Says he is like a complete pariah at family gatherings. Like black pepper is too spicy for him. It's messed up, huh? Yes. Messed up.
+
+[3:58] Anyway, we were talking roto vap because he's got roto vaps coming out of his ears as most people uh tech people in London do. We are we gonna get that new roto vap? We might get a new rotov. That's just who I was emailing. Really?
+
+[4:09] Mm-hmm. Nice. I don't know. Anyway. Let's rotovap in Japan.
+
+[4:12] Oh, we're gonna rotovap stuff in Japan. Nastash and I are going to Japan in uh how long? Like three weeks? Yeah. Anyways, we're gonna roto vap stuff there.
+
+[4:19] Mm-hmm. Oh man, it's gonna be a freaking nightmare. Alright, we'll see how it works. Okay. Uh first in from uh Bjorn in Sweden in Umea, I guess is how you pronounce the name, right?
+
+[4:29] Umeaw, because the A with the little dot over the top is aw. Aww, which means river, I think, in Swedish. Question on wild game. Hi, David. My name is Bjorn and I am a chef in the north of Sweden.
+
+[4:38] I have a problem when I brine wild game, especially reindeer and lagapus, which is what they call grouse, lagapus. Good one. Uh I normally do a solution between four and ten percent with normal salt, sodium chloride, but when I cook the meat in low temp, I get a gray line around the meat. Uh maybe two or three millimeters, depending on the time and the percent of the solution. It seems that the line gets more present on darker meat, especially when you cook low temperature.
+
+[5:00] With normal frying and cooking, it's harder to see. If I use nitrates to get a pink line, uh I get a pink line, and I don't want to do that. I've done some testing using ascorbic acid and citric acid with no result. What can I do? Best regards, bjorn.
+
+[5:13] Okay, now list. This is actually uh uh a big a big problem in general. One of the reasons that we don't recommend uh salting, pre-salting on a lot of low temperature meats, or brining for that matter, is it changes the texture of the meat as it's cooked over a long a long period of time. Uh but um color also can be uh quite quite affected. In fact, the color of meat is due in large part to the state of uh myoglobin, which is one of the proteins uh you know i in the meat uh as it's as it's cooking.
+
+[5:46] So there's three, you know, there's many actually, but there's you know the some of the main kinds of myoglobin that uh we deal with are uh deoxymyoglobin, which is what something looks like inside of a vacuum bag. That's myoglobin with kind of no oxygen bound to it. There's um oxymyoglobin, which is the bright red pink red color you get from what what we associate with kind of fresh meat. And then there's met myoglobin, which is basically a reduced form of it's like you know, it's a different iron oxide that uh it gives it kind of the brown brown color. Now, salting, right, affects several of these things.
+
+[6:20] First of all, the when you cook meat low temperature, when you cook meat in a vacuum bag, first of all, you're cooking with uh you're reducing the oxygen uh component so much that you get uh a lot more deoxymyoglobin uh than you would under normal circumstances, and that takes a long time to denature. It actually denatures slower uh uh under heat than either oxymyoglobin or met myoglobin does. So that's why in low temperature meats, uh also the the slower you heat it, the the less the my any kind of myoglobin denatures. So that's why in low temperature cooking, and especially in high vacuum vacuum bag cooking, you can get kind of very kind of pink results even at higher temperatures because you're not gonna and also when you cut the meat, it's gonna cherry up and get this balloon because you're not gonna get uh denature as much of the myoglobin as you would otherwise. Now, salting does two things.
+
+[7:09] It increases the rate of uh met myoglobin, which is brown kind of production, right? And it also uh increases the rate at which myoglobin is denatured and takes on a cooked look. So and it like by a lot, by more than double. Uh and it and that effect is more pronounced at lower temperature cooking than it is at higher temperature cooking. So the study to look at here uh is um it's fine, is the effect of muscle type salt and pH on cooked meat hemoprotein formation in lamb and beef, which came out in 1999.
+
+[7:43] Uh and so it's just it's right there, you can read it, it's the adding salt rapidly increases the rate at which myoglobin is going to get denatured. That effect is going to be magnified at low temperatures, and so having the salt in there is going to give you more of a cooked color and give you a line, a color line in that meat that there's really kind of no way around. Uh but one of the good news is is that you might not need to brine your meat as much or at all, really, uh if you're doing low temperature cooking, because you don't need to protect the meat against overcooking. Now, you if you're doing it for flavor, that's one thing, but you know, you know, not gonna not gonna affect it. Another problem is let's say you were gonna marinate for flavor, use a brine like an acid, the lower the pH, also uh the uh faster the the uh hemoglobin is going to um faster the hemoglobin the uh sorry the myoglobin is going to denature.
+
+[8:34] So you can't win by putting an acid in, you can't uh win necessarily by putting uh an antioxidant in like you did. It's just one of the things. If there's salt there and you're low temperature cooking, you're probably gonna see a line to the extent that salt is soaked into the meat. Um so that's that's all there is to it. Uh, they did in that study, which you should look at, they also tested to see whether adding fat changed the rate, maybe to help you out.
+
+[8:57] It did not. They also added uh polyphosphates, soy proteins, uh casein, and none of these things had any effect on the rate of myoglobin uh denatriation, which is I believe what's causing the uh the problem. Uh so that's uh that's that what do you think? Good awesome also salt can increase the rate of lipid oxidation not can will increase the rate of lipid oxidation in meats. Anywho, caller you're on the air.
+
+[9:19] Hey Dave Nastasha and the rest. How are you guys doing? Doing all right what's up? Hey um before I ask my question I want to say I uh thanks for the nick stabilization uh thing on your blog I made uh corned beef tacos for St. Patrick's Day with uh rye tortillas it was awesome.
+
+[9:37] Oh I love the rye tortillas with corn beef that's sweet. That's a great idea. They were good. They were awesome. What I uh grinding it of course is the problem.
+
+[9:46] I tried you know a mortar and pastel and it didn't work. What I ended up doing was uh just putting all the rye berries in a blender with enough water to make a puree out of it and then I added just enough of that uh masseca uh to to thicken it back up again but still had tons of rye flavor and the the texture was so great. Even fried you know for crunchy tacos had just a great great chew to it. I think that's a great idea adding the Masaka back because really the only reason that you need the hardcore grinding um you know implements like uh the corona which doesn't even work that well or like you know the the um the really you know the big professional jobs is because to grind it at home in a processor or blender you really need to add more water than you can to make a tortilla but adding the Mosaica back is a genius way to to get around that. And I think, you know, w well with well within the the bounds of uh of mean m mean like Mosica, like as much as I griped about it in the in the article, it's not a it's it it's a it's not a horrible product.
+
+[10:44] It's just and it sounds like it's a gr man, it sounds like a great plan. I'm glad that worked. I might do that from now on, make my life easy. I hate using that corona grinder. Yeah.
+
+[10:53] Hey, how'd your rum uh talk uh? Oh, rum talk went well. I uh you know, I was uh I didn't talk about it. When I was in Germany, uh I was supposed to be talking about and was talking about the effect of yeast on distillation because everyone who does home brewing kind of knows that yeast really affect like what yeast you use affects the flavor of the beer that comes out, but a lot of people don't think about it when it applies to uh distilled beverages. So what I did was I took the same crappy whole food molasses, it wasn't crappy, whatever.
+
+[11:20] I don't mean to insult it, although it was crappy, and then um took three identical batches, pasteurized them all, and pitched uh two different yeasts into it, and then did it in at two different temperatures to show the effects that the yeast is. And the yeast is I mean, the maj the a huge majority of the flavors that are produced in a lot of distilled beverages, the esters, uh the fusel oils, all these all the congeners that we think about, with the exception of just pure molasses aroma or can aroma, come from the yeast. Uh and so I think it was really kind of an eye-opener to some people to see, you know, kind of how how important particular yeast strain is and which is why people are kind of proud of it. But have you ever d visited a distillery? When you visit distilleries, they never talk about their yeast.
+
+[12:00] They they go right past they maybe they let you taste the fermentation, they show it to you, but they don't make a big deal out of it. The way they make a big deal about their stills or the way they make a big deal about the raw materials that go in, and it's really kind of a vital thing. So the the talk went well, in other words. Yeah. I used to be a uh head to ciller at a rum distillery, and we did a lot of experimenting with uh we were doing like fermenting with German Hefeweizen yeast and uh, you know, uh British uh fruity British ale yeast at high temperatures to try to get different characters, and they were just wildly different uh not only just the flavors but the distillates themselves were just you know one would be just full of acetone and the next one would have virtually none.
+
+[12:39] So it's really interesting. Huh would are you allowed to say who you used to distill with uh a rum distillery in New Orleans called uh celebration distillation. You make New Orleans rum and uh yeah we even tried we we found this dry yeast that's uh isolated off of Guatemalan sugar cane and it was you know to make the rum agricole and it was it's just so phenolic and plasticky that no matter how tight of a cut we did it it was just really too much. But it was uh it's fun experimenting with all that. Yeah I mean the tough part I guess is like you know I was talking to the Havana Club guys and you know they um you know they make a big deal about getting the their own yeast off the off the cane that comes out of the field then but then they need to be consistent and that's the big pain in the butt.
+
+[13:24] That's why you can't go totally wild on this stuff and why no one you know none of the big players can go totally wild because if they go totally wild there's no way they're gonna get a consistent product out of it. So then they're put in the position of kind of propagating a particular yeast strain over the course of years which then becomes you know difficult I guess. I mean I don't they they don't talk about that aspect of it. They make a big deal about their yeast coming from you know their area being kind of endogenous to their area but they don't uh or indigenous to their area but they don't um you know they don't talk much about how it's you know kind of kept as a culture over time or kind of how many strains of yeast there are in it, you know? Yeah.
+
+[14:02] So um my question is I'm uh I'm looking to start a small craft soda business and um I've got a lot of good recipes already uh like a a ginger habanero soda and a cucumber Thai basil soda. And my question is w uh you know with a lot of the like the cucumber and watermelon, I mean it tastes awesome and the color's beautiful, but a if it sits overnight all the particulate matter settles out. Right. So what what do I need to a to add? Do I is it like guargum or something like that.
+
+[14:34] What is there anything 'cause I want I want this to be as, you know natural as possible. Is there anything that's not gonna scare people off to see it on the uh the label of uh so you want to keep the stuff suspended. Yeah. Well I mean you could add I mean I mean uh the problem is is that anything that's gonna keep it suspended is gonna also I mean you're obviously you're going for kind of low levels of carbonation otherwise you're gonna get massive foam out anyway with the particulate matter that's in there. But there's uh you know y y you probably don't want to move to something like a PGA pectin.
+
+[15:08] I mean certain pectins would do the job suspending that's what I I spend most of my time obliterating pectin to try and desuspend everything that's in it. You know what I mean? So depending on the particle size that you have, I mean if it's stuff that'll pass through a coffee filter for instance, it can easily be suspended with pectin. Now the next you know thing down is you could susp I mean I I wouldn't want to go in a soda because I don't like what happens to the body of it, but uh you know I mean y we are you suspending big things or small things? Like big pieces of herbs or like just it just I'll juice a cucumber and strain it out through a fine strainer and uh you know pull mix maybe a like a uh a a Thai basil tea in with it.
+
+[15:49] And uh but it's all you know it's it's the particles are are big enough, I guess, where or small enough where they'll go through a fine mesh strainer. Right. And and it it'll h it'll be in solution for a day, but you know, i if I'm serving this in draft, you know, it's all gonna settle to the bottom of the keg. Oh, so you're not you're not bottling you're not bottling it, you're just putting it in a keg. Just yeah, I'm gonna just do corny cornelius kegs and you know, sell it as a kind of an alternative to craft beer for people who are, you know, trying to uh you know, sober up at the end of the night, or just people who like you know, interesting sodas, but you know right.
+
+[16:27] I mean, one thing to do is you treat it, I mean, obviously, you know, you're a distiller and a brewer to treat it like a beer and rack it, but do you like the flavor of it better before with the particles in it? Do you like the look and flavor of the particles or sh or you want to try and think of a way to get rid of the flavor of the particles? I mean you could just go a wine finding route, rack it, and then get that's all of that stuff out of there and be left with a clear clear soda, in which case you could up the uh volumes of CO2 that you pump into it as well and get more of a bite out of it from a CO2 standpoint. You know, the the flip route is to try and stabilize it, and I would guess if you want a really good label declaration with something like that, this is just a straight up guess because I hadn't haven't thought about it, is uh some form of pectin. Um, you know, similar to mean like th think about all the crud that's sitting in grapefruit juice and that stuff is totally stable.
+
+[17:13] Do you know what I mean? And it's basically because of pectin. Um you know, and other suspended kind of plant uh, you know, matter in there, like hemicellulose infection. So I would bet you could get some sort of stabilization that way. Um I haven't researched particularly what product, but like you know who would what you would talk to on that is uh the guys at CP Kelco.
+
+[17:32] CP Kelco, they make all of the um you know, th they're like the pectin people. Um and so th you know, and they're fairly helpful. So they they would probably have some sort of product that you could use. If you want to go like a straight hydro route, I mean the good thing about pectin, fantastic label declaration. You could just say what it comes from, like citrus citrus peel or apple pumice or whatever in the hell.
+
+[17:53] You know what I mean? Right, right. But um then the other people who I would talk to on stability and CP Celco also handles some of the the other stability stuff. I mean, FMC biopolymer, they handle a lot of the beer stuff, but I don't think you want to go, like I said, PGA, like propylene glycolalgenate, all that stuff, kind of head stabilizers for beer and things like that. Right.
+
+[18:11] No, I don't want that. I don't think you want to do that. And I don't think you want to add so much body because it's gonna be a real huge problem on foam out to do something like a gum arabic xanthan mix, which is what we use as our main emulsifier. Now, gum arabic is a good emulsifier and might hold stuff in. I don't know though.
+
+[18:26] It's not really th a thickener, you know what I mean? But that was used to uh uh stabilize soda emulsions, but I don't know that it's going to stabilize stuff from sinking. It's more of an emulsifier in case you had fats and oils in it. You know what I'm saying? Uh then TIC gums, uh you know, they're pretty good and they spend a lot of time thinking about label declarations, and they might have a a good way to go.
+
+[18:49] You know, Scott Riefler's their guy out on the west coast, and I don't know, I don't remember who is here on the East Coast, but they have a lot of proprietary blends, which are you know might have be a monetary issue for you if you're a huge producer, but you know, if you're not a huge producer, then the cost is gonna be negligible based on the fact that you're juicing fresh cucumbers. You know what I mean? So um so I would hit up CP Celco, see whether they have a pectin product for you. I would hit up uh TIC gums and see whether they have a straight up stabilization, and then as a last resort, I would go to FMC biopolymer. Alright, I don'll look into this.
+
+[19:20] Any uh I remember before in a previous uh show you had talked about uh like coriander and green tie chili soda or something of any other interesting flavors you could uh throw my way? Oh, I don't know. Well really expensive ones, but that one's good. In fact, we're using that one tonight. We're making a drink, we're doing a Lucky Rice event tonight, uh and we're doing we're making an old fashioned with that coriander syrup.
+
+[19:41] Uh you know, in general, for for us at Booker and Dax, we like to stock one or two syrups around that are dual purpose. So I can we can use the coriander for an old fashioned, and then I can also make a soda out of it. You know what I mean? Um we always have, you know, I always have a clarified lime juice sitting around, so we can always make a lime soda if we needed to. Um, you know, obviously, but the you know, the stuff that that Nastash and I have done in the past before we had a bar, uh has been extraordinarily expensive stuff like straight strawberry juice and raspberry juice you know, turn into a soda.
+
+[20:12] Delicious. Remember that one says? Strawbunkle soda? Yeah, that's stuff is amazing. Fantastically expensive though.
+
+[20:18] I don't know what you'd have to charge someone to serve that as a soda. You know what I mean? Sure. I mean, I'd have to charge like mixed drink prices or more even. And then people will be like, I'm paying 14 bucks for friggin' soda.
+
+[20:28] I'm like, well, I there's two pints of blueberries in it. What do you want out of me? You know what I mean? Yeah, I'm looking to do kind of like similar prices to a pint of beer, you know, 350, four bucks for a pint of you know, craft soda. So you want to stick with stronger flavors that you don't have to put as much in and and then have the majority of what goes in be water.
+
+[20:47] Exactly. Exactly. All right, thank uh uh do you have time for one one question? Um, quick one and then we've got to go to a break. Okay, um I was wondering about uh paratese and digestive.
+
+[20:59] Um, do you think that it really works? Is alcohol good for does it impu impede digestion and uh or does it stimulate digestion, or is is basically alcohol bad for digestion? And if you have any favorite apparatus and digestive. Huh. I never thought of that.
+
+[21:18] Whether it actually does anything, because I discount all health claims in general for everything at all times. So uh I've never actually thought about it, but I'm sure someone has done the study of uh kind of rate of digestion and alcohol consumption both before and after. Uh what do you like to have before uh before a meal? Do you like you like it? You don't really do that kind of stuff, right?
+
+[21:38] No. I mean, I like compari. Yeah, that's true. I like a compari beforehand. And afterwards, I you know, I don't I don't go for like the like uh upset stomach pound some Fournette afterwards or like you know the late night Fournette shot that all the bartenders go for.
+
+[21:52] But uh I don't know. I haven't thought about it. I'm gonna think about that one though and come back. In fact, if you send a question to Nastasha for next week's radio show, I'll try to remember to do some actual research on alcohol and digestion. Alrighty.
+
+[22:08] Yep. Let's do it. Oh the shop. Bump bump bump bump, baby. Bump bump bump.
+
+[22:29] Well bounce off. That's all right. Bubba Babotsi! Oh, hell yeah, Jack. That was a good call.
+
+[22:58] Oh, thanks. What album is that? Uh I'll check it out in a minute. I'm not sure what album it's from. Bootsy's rubber band.
+
+[23:05] Oh, hell yes. Yeah. Love Bootsy. You know, Bootsy's still playing. Still out there with the with the uh star colored uh base and the star-shaped glasses.
+
+[23:13] Amazing dude. Stretching out in Bootsy's rubber band. That's what's the album, yeah. I'll tell you something. If you don't like Bootsy Collins, you just have some severe problems with you.
+
+[23:21] Like your butt's broken, your funk motor is busted. You need to turn that son of a bitch on and go out and listen to some Bootsy. Anyway, today's show is brought to you by Chris. Who's it brought to you? Tell it.
+
+[23:33] Today's show is brought to you by Modernist Pantry. You're back. We love you. We missed you. We missed you, Modernist Pantry.
+
+[23:38] Supplying innovative ingredients for the modern cook. Do you love to experiment with new cooking techniques and ingredients, but hate to overspend for pounds of supplies when only a few grams are needed per application? Modernist Pantry has a solution. They offer a wide range of modern ingredients and packages that make sense for the home cook and enthusiast, and most cost only around five bucks, saving you time, money, and storage space. Whether you're looking for hydrocolloids, pH buffers, or even meat glue, you'll find it at Modernist Pantry.
+
+[24:03] And if you need something that they don't carry, just ask. Chris Anderson and his team will be happy to source it for you. With inexpensive shipping to any country in the world. Maybe. Hey, listen.
+
+[24:14] Here's a challenge. All you suckers out there, go try to come from a country that he will not ship to. There's gotta be something. Cuba. Zimbabwe.
+
+[24:22] Uh uh, we'll talk about that later. Okay, uh, if we have time, we'll talk about our Zimba our possible Zimbabwe trip later. Anyway, oh whatever. Anyway, we'll talk about it. Okay.
+
+[24:30] Uh, with inexpensive shipping to any country in the world, Mondo's Pantry is your one-stop shop for innovative cooking ingredients. Modernist Pantry carries VersaWhip 600k, a modified soy protein, which is a great replacement for egg whites and gelatin in whipped applications like meringue, mousse, and other hot or cold foams. Fans of cooking issues that place an order of $25 or more before next week's show, we'll get a free package of VersaWhip to play with. Simply use the promo code CI81 when placing your order online at modernistpantry.com. Visit modernistpantry.com today for all of your modernist cooking needs.
+
+[25:02] So there are several VersaWhips out there. And as they said, VersaWhip is uh is a uh it's either a soy protein or actually a uh a milk protein, whey protein. There's two different ones, a soy one and a hue one. And um they they function slightly different. I guess uh, you know, Chris is selling the um uh the soy one.
+
+[25:19] Uh if you're using VersaWhip for the first time, uh the other good whipping agent that a lot of us use is Methylcel F, like Frank 50 is a good whipping agent. It's different. Proteins uh are whipping agents because they're large, uh charged, and they're large and charged. Anyway, uh and so they uh they're they're good at uh aeration thing, whipping agents. Uh and well, actually, foam stabilizers.
+
+[25:40] You that's actually it's not really a whipping agent, they're foam stabilizer. I guess I could be a whipping agent, but you might want to add some solid sauce to increase whipping when you're going. Another thing about Versawhip, VersawWhip can be weird. In other words, like when you're whipping an egg white, it it kind of lifts up kind of like slow and steady. Versawhip, you can whip it for a while.
+
+[25:57] Nothing, nothing, nothing, nothing, nothing, nothing. Bang, you have a foam. So if you buy it, just be aware that that is uh it might happen and don't give up right away when uh you're whipping stuff, right? Yes. Yeah, okay.
+
+[26:09] Steven writes in from Moscow uh with remember he was moving to Moscow? Yeah. And uh uh with water for coffee. That sounds like a book. This water for chocolate.
+
+[26:18] Uh yeah. But water makes much more sense for coffee than for chocolate. Right? Anyway. Uh hello all, all love listening to the show.
+
+[26:26] Listening for a long time. Wanted to follow up on equipment issues. I called in a few weeks back. I live in Moscow, and the water is absolutely horrible. That's too bad.
+
+[26:33] Too bad. I usually get bottered. Our water here is good. That's mean. That's mean that's mean.
+
+[26:38] Anyway, that's mean. Anyway, I usually get botter bottled mineral water shipped in, but I want to go for an under the sink filter. The local bottled water is not too bad and has an okay taste. Uh as everything's not filtered out of it. Um the big coffee head that I am, I need to have something to play with, uh, water wise, filter wise.
+
+[26:55] So see that filters seem to clean out most of the crud. The filters that he that he finds that seem to uh uh clean out most of the crud tend to be reverse osmosis filters. Uh but at least from what I hear, the water tastes really bad out of an reverse reverse osmosis, aka an RO machine, uh, because it filters out almost everything. But is an RO machine really the only way to go? Will the basic multi uh filter system work for me?
+
+[27:16] Any specific processes that you would recommend, brands, etc. Okay. Uh keep up the good work and let us know when you're heading to Moscow. Stasi was almost gonna go to Moscow like two years ago. Yeah.
+
+[27:25] What the hell happened? The storm. Oh no, no, no. It was Iceland, the volcano erupted, right? Yeah, and the na yeah, yeah, yeah.
+
+[27:32] Yeah, yeah, and then no one would fly over that thing. Yeah. And so she's like, meh, meh. It's typical, right? You were like, you were like resigned yourself to it.
+
+[27:39] Yeah. You're like, that's it. Because you know, as uh those of you that know, Nastash is the curious mix. Half well, not really half Russian, like like quarter quarter Russian, quarter Ukrainian, but we call it Russian, no offense, Ukraine, and uh half Mexican. So she's you know, trying to see whether she can go to Russia and also deny that half of her existence.
+
+[27:57] I'm just messing with just messing with her. Anyways. Um the problem with reverse osmosis is that it takes out almost everything in it, and coffee needs to have some miner mineralization in order for it to taste good. So the there's a couple different things you could do. You could go uh RO and then use uh actually mineralize it afterwards.
+
+[28:16] And uh I didn't have a chance to look up there's some companies that will sell kind of um kits that where you can kind of remineralize the water. That said, I don't know what's in the water in Moscow that makes it taste bad. At my house, uh, you know, even in New York we have a decent water supply. Uh the a particular pipe that mine comes through occasionally is chlorinated. And so I filter all of my water for coffee and I use a multi-stage filter.
+
+[28:41] You want to go uh a big filter first. Uh, you know, when I say big, I mean, you know, uh somewhat porous, and it's gonna capture most of the stuff that will clog the later filter. And they have filters that uh, you know, so they'll have filters that'll take down almost everything down to uh cysts and and tiny little things, but that'll also remove almost all of the flavor out of it as long as the water is safe to go. The issue with those filters is is that when you add multiple system uh filters in a in a house system, you are decreasing the pressure coming through it by a lot. And so you uh want to make sure that you get enough pressure through it.
+
+[29:14] You want to make sure you change your filters. I use the GE home water stuff. I don't know whether it's sufficient for what's going on in Moscow. Um or you could have an alternate problem is that the water is not not just bad tasting, right? Uh or you know, it has problems, but is also too mineralized, in which case you need to demineralize it and then remineralize it somewhat.
+
+[29:34] But I totally agree with you, reverse osmosis system is not uh the way to go. I'll I I'll you know send us back some more parameters about what actually your problem with the water is over there, and I'll take a look and see whether or anyone else who has uh some experience with some real hard water places and coffee, maybe can write us in and tell us what they use. Yeah? Yeah. Okay.
+
+[29:51] Uh Tom Fisher writes in about gum syrup. Hello, Dave, Anastasia, Jack, and Carlos. Carlos is not with us anymore, brother. Carlos doesn't like us anymore. Jack, what do you go to do?
+
+[30:01] He's around. He is working at a hotel. I think he's uh delivering meals as a room service or something like that. Specifically because he hated us at the radio show. Not like I think specifically because he hated Nastasia.
+
+[30:13] Wow. Hardcore. You should see the faces that Nastasha shoots off at the people here. It's crazy. One too many vegan faces, I think.
+
+[30:19] Yeah, you know, we have people here, like they're eating their pizza, Nastasha gives them a look out the window, they just push the pizza to the side, they can't eat anymore, they leave. It's crazy. Anyway, uh Tom Fisher writes in. Recently I've uh g uh been given a book of cocktail recipes, and glancing through it, one ingredient kept jumping out at me. It's an old book, I guess.
+
+[30:35] Uh gum syrup. Uh confused, I looked up several classic recipes, drinks that normally have sugar or sure uh sugar syrup added, but in this book, all these drinks call for gum syrup. I have the ingredients on hand, so I don't necessarily mind making the syrup, but is there any need to do so? Does the gum Arabic really make a difference? Also, in searching for a recipe for gum syrup, I've found half a dozen different versions.
+
+[30:55] What do you recommend? Thanks and hoping you're having fun in Germany. Tom Fisher. Okay. Uh for those of you that don't know what we're talking about, gum syrup, is uh gum syrup is where you instead of just making a regular simple syrup, uh, which is just sugar and water, you add a boatload of gum Arabic to it, right?
+
+[31:13] Now I would I would add as much as you kind of can, right, within the realm of portability. The interesting thing about gum arabic is uh other than the fact that it comes from tree sap uh is, or if it comes from tree, it comes out of a tree. Uh, and the fact that uh, you know, for a while there was problems with it because it was coming from an area in Sudan, and maybe you were supporting terrorism and/or genocide by buying it. I think that's been fixed now. I'm not sure.
+
+[31:34] Anyway, uh I shouldn't say stuff like that, just like you're kind of like off the cuff as though like because it's it sounds horrible. But I think they might have fixed those problems. Anyways, gum Arabic um is really cool because unlike most uh hydrocolloids, which are long chains, right? Uh uh gum arabic is very highly branched in a similar way to a millipectin is very highly branched, and so it's a very kind of large weight uh hydrocolloid polymer, but is also uh you know not too thick, even in kind of very heavy solutions. It also has a protein in it that acts as a an emulsifier, which is why it was used for a long, long time, or still is used, although it's expensive, to stabilize soda syrups uh that have some oil in them because uh it also has the really cool capacity that it holds its emulsi uh emulsifying capabilities even when it's diluted radically and quickly, which is why it's great for things like soda syrups.
+
+[32:26] Uh it also adds body, which is why it's in these drinks. So it's an emulsifier, which means it's gonna in a shaken drink, it's gonna make the bubbles hold longer and it's gonna it's gonna get a better texture on it. Um and that's basically why it's there. Um I'd say it's worth it. I've never experimented exclusively with straight gum syrup, uh, but we use a mixture of gum arabic and xanthan called ticaloid 210s for all of our emulsified fat drinks, like cold buttered rum, uh in all of our house made orjaz that we have.
+
+[32:55] We have like a walnut orja, we have a pistachio orjah, we have a toasted almond orjah that we do at Booker and Dax, and we use this Ticoloid 210. We also have, we never put it on the menu, but we do it for one-offs. We have basically what we call tick syrup uh or tick simple. And it is a mixture of gum arabic and xanthan, uh, and it's basically like a modern day gum syrup. And when you shake it uh into a daiquiri, let's say, you get kind of a it's a different mouthfeel.
+
+[33:21] So half the people really love it. Half the people prefer regular simple syrup in it, and so it's hard to say it's not better or worse. I think it's creamy and it kind of gets a better head, more foamy. I kind of like it. Do you like the tick simple or do you like the regular better?
+
+[33:34] Do you remember? I don't remember. You don't remember? Like, but it splits along lines. Uh so I would definitely recommend making some uh and trying.
+
+[33:40] And we should do some regular good old-fashioned gum syrup. But if you're gonna do it, freaking do it right. Add a boatload of gum Arabic, right? I mean, like, don't sissy around with it. It's expensive though.
+
+[33:50] Maybe one reason not to. Anyway, hope that helps. Uh okay. Uh should we take another one more and then we take a commercial break? We can have time for commercial break.
+
+[33:57] I'm gonna rip this stuff through. I'm gonna rip through this. Teddy DeVico wrote in about the foie gras ban in California. I'm curious to hear your opinions on the upcoming foie gras ban in California. The way I see it is that animal rights activists uh are just choosing a battle they can win so they gain momentum to tackle the real criminals like Purdue, Tyson, etc.
+
+[34:14] I enjoy foie gras and personally think banning all foie gras in California is ludicrous. However, some foie gras producers do treat their ducks and geese horribly. But then again, the same goes for chicken, pork, beef, etc. The government should send out inspectors to approve of farms before they uh before they are allowed to sell their products. And also they should check up on the farms on at least a yearly basis to make sure the animals are treated humanely.
+
+[34:35] Teddy DeVico. Um, I you know I don't really know. Here's the problem, right? And I'm gonna like everyone's gonna jump down my throat now, I'm gonna be an outcast in in the in the chef world. I'm like I like foie gras fine, but I could really live without it.
+
+[34:50] I mean, like, you know what I mean? Like I like most of my friends, uh, you know, like if you you know take like take away their foie gras like taking uh you know, taking the guns away from an NRA member. Like they freak out. You know what I mean? Um But I don't think it's reasonable for me to decide like what I think is right or wrong just based on whether or not I really personally care about it that much.
+
+[35:11] Do you know what I'm saying? I mean, I do like a hot, hot foie gras, you know like nice I like I I like it. I like it fine. It's not my favorite freaking thing on earth. What about you, Stas?
+
+[35:19] Yeah I agree. Yeah. Uh and thanks for taking the bullet with me. I like that. See Stas, you know, Stas for all the crap we give Stas, she is loyal, right?
+
+[35:27] That is true. Yeah. Did you try the foie gras donut last night? I didn't no I didn't. Was it good?
+
+[35:32] I don't know. Someone said it was they thought it was going to be like a cream like foie gras and cream inside, but it was just straight foie gras. Really? Really good? They did not like it.
+
+[35:43] Yeah it doesn't sound good. I did not try it. I did not try it. I don't I do not know. Anyway I heard someone else who tried it they said that they liked it though and their foie gras was more like a moose on the inside.
+
+[35:52] Anyway we're not here to talk about it. Well anyway foie gras. So um I I really don't know where I stand on this. You know I believe that we should you know I I eat meat obviously I think we should move towards uh humane methods of production in in all in all forms uh uh of farming you know to the great greatest extent possible the the question is uh I I think the the real there's there's there's two things right there's there's one is that you know I I don't like anyone being forbidden to um do something or serve something that they want to serve in their restaurant but there needs to be a limit I mean obviously you're not allowed to like you know murder people and serve them in restaurants right so there there's obviously a limit on what chefs should be allowed to do uh in a restaurant um you know and then but there's the question of whether or not foie gras is basically just the poster child for what's perceived as cruelty, because you know, for those if there's anyone out there that doesn't know how foie gras produced, basically uh uh animals eat uh you force feed animals a whole boatload of stuff, their livers uh inflate uh and then uh and become delicious, uh and and it's called gavage. And that's really what people are griping about is gavage.
+
+[36:59] Uh you know, there's arguments that come in on a bunch of different sizes, because then you have people coming in saying, Well, you're you're you're shafting my cultural heritage. In fact, you know, gavage is not a recent thing. Like the ancient Romans practiced gavage on uh various different animals um to kind of fatten them up and increase their liver. So it's it's a very old practice, which doesn't make it right. Uh and uh, you know, people enjoy the product which doesn't make it right.
+
+[37:25] The real question is is is this practice um bad or not? I really haven't done the research on it to find out whether or not I actually think it is torture or cruelty. I'm sure that there are places where it's done in a completely horrible, inhumane manner. And I'm uh the but the question is is that necessarily the case? And from people I've spoken to, albeit unbiased people, um sorry, albeit biased people, um, there are ways to produce foie gras where it is not uh a torture for the animals.
+
+[37:56] And then, you know, there's the possibly, but you know, uh what do I know about it? You know, uh apocryphal stories of you know, in certain places, well-treated uh geese and ducks actually coming up to the person who's gonna perform the gavage. So in other words, they're they're not uh they're not afraid of it. I uh I I like then there's the problem of like, yeah, you're taking care of like, you know, the this one really high priced product, but on the other hand, uh, you know, you're allowing the horrible farming practices to take place. You don't even call it farming, like horrible factory meat processes to take place uh and not really bothering with those people because you're targeting someone that you can easily target because you are making people feel guilty for going out and spending a lot of money on a product that you're then associating with torture, the same way it worked on fur, right?
+
+[38:40] Uh you know, so again, I don't really know where I stand. I know Dave Chang uh trusts his foie gras producers, I think we get from Hudson Valley at uh at Mamafuku, and and you know, and has visited their farm, uh, has seen how they treat the animals. And for all the crap that Dave gets for being like all pro meat, like he is also pro-responsible farming. Uh and so, you know, I know he vouches for uh that, or at least he told I think he said he vouches for that. Um, Thomas Keller signed on saying, you know, he vouches for some of the producers out out uh that he deals with as being uh humane.
+
+[39:14] So I think if we can do it in a humane fashion, then I don't think it's necessarily inhumane just because their livers are diseased, unquote. That doesn't make sense, right? Does that make sense to you, Nastasha? Anyway. If my mom overfeeds my cat, can we eat the cat's liver?
+
+[39:30] My mom overfeeds my cat. Uh just in case you missed that, Nastasha just advocated uh eating pet cats. Just saying. That's what I heard too. Yeah.
+
+[39:40] Just just that's just what I'm saying. Anyway. Um, I've got to rip through some Jack. Do I have a little bit of time or no? Oh, yeah, you got like five more.
+
+[39:50] Okay. So let me uh let me rip through some let me rip through some questions. Um Greg writes in uh with a few questions. One, uh when you do low temperature cooking low temper sausage, low temperature oil, which we're gonna do for the uh Museum of Food and Drink, we're gonna do beer brats or something similar at low temperatures, come eat them. Uh, do you pierce the casings to let the oils into the casing or is this unnecessary?
+
+[40:08] Do not do that. You want to keep the oils that were in the thing in the thing to begin with. Uh water based things like beer will actually go through the membrane of the casing and like you know, suck flavors out and put flavors in. But you're trying to get as little flavor uh leech in or out as possible when you're using oil in like a Ziploc bag, so don't pierce it. And then you're just gonna lose juices.
+
+[40:28] Like, you know, when you take a properly cooked sausage and you poke it, it's like juice sprays out of it, and that's what you kind of want. You don't you want to keep that stuff in there? Uh so no. Uh two. I've been playing around with sous vide chicken breasts recently and really love how they come out.
+
+[40:39] I've been following Jason Lachin's recommendations at 56 Celsius for two and a half to three hours. That's low for me. Of course, the chicken looks anemic right out of the bag, so I've been trying to come up with a way to make fried chicken using a cheapo deep fryer. Alternatively, I could use a very hot pot of high smoke point oil, most likely peanut. Can you give me some recommendations about batters or coatings that would help here?
+
+[40:57] I think it's too low. You know, when you're gonna fry it, you're gonna bring the stuff up. Um anyway, oh, I'm looking for something that would adhere nicely, but be a decent vehicle for herbs and spices and would fry up quickly without significant heat soak into the meat. Listen, what you want to do is make sure you pull the stuff out when you're cooking it, let it hot, let it flash off for a second to get uh uh, you know, get a little bit of a pellicle on the outside, then straight flour, right? Or you could salt it, but straight flour, and then put all of the flavor into like a liquid.
+
+[41:25] I use buttermilk uh egg and uh I use I use basically buttermilk, egg, baking soda, baking powder, and you can put all the flavor you want in there and then back into flour and fry it. That's what I do. Now I got yelled at uh, you know, by some southern guys uh at the last thing because they use an entirely different technique. But that using low temperature cooking adheres like a bastard and you can get flavors into it. So that's what I do, and that's what I would recommend.
+
+[41:48] Uh also I'm the habanero pepper taming guy from way back, other than Steingarden, Jeffrey Steingrad, and our good buddy. Haven't spoken to him in a while though, right? Anyway, uh it's good to labor over peppers techniques. I haven't found a decent way to reduce capsation load in uh habanero peppers, which are extremely hot. Not as hot as Nagajalokia or whatever they're pronounced, ghost peppers, but they taste a whole hell of a lot better.
+
+[42:05] Anyway, I still have a few more experiments to try, but recently I got access to a centrifuge, and this technique struck me. Could you emulsify the trimmed pepper flesh with some um uh oleophilic that means fat-loving uh medium centrifuged the whole mess and extract the supposedly capsation minimized goodness from the bottom? My thought is the capsation uh is an oleomer, so if I can uh get it to stick to something, can I filter or separate? I guess I didn't mean fat. Anyway, I should be in good shape.
+
+[42:29] Any thoughts during the process? What about uh oleophiles? As a first cut, I was thinking about just using olive oil, but there's also casein or other things out there that might work. Thanks, take care, Greg. I don't think that's gonna work, Greg, because you might be able to well, I mean, there's no doubt you could probably get a a capsation enriched section of it, right?
+
+[42:45] But you're not gonna get all you're not gonna get all all of it out, or even probably enough to make a huge dent. Uh I did some preliminary research last week when this question came in. I didn't find anything. I'm gonna keep looking to see whether there's anyone that's done any research on centrifically uh accept separated capsation at lower uh at lower speeds. But I have very I have I am not holding out high hopes, but I'll look into it, right?
+
+[43:09] I could tell because you can hear the clacks. If I ask her to write an email, you hear the claggity clack, then you know she's doing it. Uh-huh, yeah, sure. Not anything about this. All right.
+
+[43:18] What's this? There's some cats that called in. Wow. That's hardcore. That's hardcore.
+
+[43:25] Uh, we're not gonna we're not gonna get to we're not gonna get to all the questions too. No, I don't think so. Okay, listen, it's because we had a week without the show. Okay, so let me let me do this, and then hopefully I can get it one more. But uh um uh Michael Nakin wrote in, uh long time resin our buddy, right?
+
+[43:40] Uh Herbivoraceous, uh, and comment on last two weeks ago on the show. So he said, Um, so I couldn't possibly listen to the discussion of the vegan menu at Del Posto without writing in. The idea that this is talking about what you know, you know, Mark and those guys said about cooking the vegan menus. Uh the idea that vegetarians mostly don't really love food and are just difficult diners who mainly want some sort of uh health food sustenance is how can I say this for the radio, complete and utter crap. I've been a lacto ovo vegetarian for 23 years, and I'm pretty much never think about anything besides food and how to maximize the pleasure of my next meal.
+
+[44:15] But I'm fully engaged with food. I listen to your show. I've read Modernist Cuisine from cover to cover and have started at a few restaurants. My first book uh cookbook is coming out this week, uh, and it's called uh Herbivoracious A Flavor Revolution with 150 vibrant and visual original vegetarian recipes. In fact, publication date is today.
+
+[44:32] I looked it up on Amazon. Should be interesting. Uh congratulations and uh good luck with the book. Uh anyway, uh and I think if you take a look at it, you'll agree that there's no aspect of self-sacrifice involved. For me, being a vegetarian is just a completely personal thing.
+
+[44:46] I'm not wired to want to eat animals, and I don't think I'm alone. There are many of us who don't eat animals but love food. I'd love to see more high-end restaurants take that seriously, not simply throw some pasta in a Burblanc our way and hope we don't care. Thanks, Michael. Now, first of all, in defense of Del Posto, clearly that's not what they were doing, right?
+
+[45:03] You know what I mean? Also, I think um look here's the thing, right? I mean this is a tough problem. I mean, like obviously you love, you know, Michael, you love food, and and there's whole cultures, whole civilizations that are based on uh especially lacto ovo vegetarianism. I think the the chef's gripe is probably more against uh vegans, I would say, right?
+
+[45:29] Yeah. Yeah. No? I I mean, I I don't know. But even so, like, there's there's no such thing as like personality.
+
+[45:37] Well, there's the thing. You're just it's like it's like it's like racism, basically. Yes. You're basically a r a racist. I have something to say.
+
+[45:44] Okay. Last night we were coming back from dinner. Mark and I were coming back from dinner, just a small dinner of like miso soup, uh salad, and fried chicken. And we have leftover fried chicken, and we're walking on like 58th and 9th or something. Sounds like a classic Nastasha story right here.
+
+[46:00] Okay. And there's a homeless person on cardboard, wrapped in like a very nasty blanket. This poor guy, right? And he's asking everyone who passes for change. And I say, I have some food in this bag.
+
+[46:15] And he said, What is it? And I said, It's fried chicken. And he said, I don't eat chicken because it depends on where it's been raised. Okay. See, you have no respect for human dignity.
+
+[46:26] Nastasha has no respect for human dignity. I'm saying, look at how, you know, lots of people are very discerning. It doesn't matter what. It's not discerning. The guy has a moral because the guy doesn't have a home, he can't have morals on whether or not he's chicken.
+
+[46:39] But yes. No, I'm saying good for him. So are you saying good for him? Yeah. Good for him.
+
+[46:44] Good for him. All right, so you're not. I know, I'm not. You're not saying anything bad about this guy. No, not at all.
+
+[46:49] Alright, well, I misjudge you then. Thank you. All right. Uh the the the the point is that um you know I g the the the the issue is is that a lot of chefs uh w here's the deal. Sh chefs don't like f pick what they perceive as pickiness in any form, right?
+
+[47:07] And so the the issue is is if they perceive um what's going on as just being pickiness, it's not that they don't mind the work. Chefs love work and they love problems. You know what I mean? They like to they they they like uh a challenge, they like this. They they intent don't like picky people in general, as a generalization.
+
+[47:25] And what they do is is that people they don't necessarily, and here's the real crux, respect the decisions other people make based on their diet, right? Say it's accurate, Nastasha. And so um they perceive that as being uh they perceive certain dietary choices, not in a hundred percent of the cases, but they perceive the people who make them as making uh decisions that are either a picky, b whiny or c antisocial in some cases. Right. Right?
+
+[47:55] I think they spent a lot of time they work with food, they make choices, they make recipes based on their love of food. And when there's a picky eater, and then it creates a whole new But Michael's clearly not a picky eater. That's what I'm saying. But here's the the problem was when it comes to generalization, you know what I mean? So I mean, and and it it it's disingenuous to basically give you know Michael a pass because he's lacto-ovo vegetarian.
+
+[48:19] I'm guarantee you there's vegans out there who love food. You know what I mean? Um it's a lot harder, I think. You know, anytime you limit your palate, it's more of a challenge, it becomes more difficult, and then it becomes harder for people who don't cook that way to produce a product on the quality of the quality level that they want to produce. See in other words, another problem that chefs have is that they want to produce the best quality stuff that they can produce for you, and if they don't sit around all day thinking about the best way to make a vegan meal, then it's hard for them to produce their what they think is their best showing, right?
+
+[48:51] That's uh uh when they're doing vegan. If you add on to that a per this is I mean, sorry to say it, but this is like innate, right? Like an innate distrust of any sort of thing that they see as picky, then you're like, you know, you're adding in insult to injury. But I think uh I mean as I don't know how the hell this is coming off the outside outside uh worldly horrible, probably horribly, but I mean the fact of the matter is uh that you know you're you're right. I mean we should judge every a chef should judge every customer they come in on their own merits, and there's plenty of meat eaters who are some picky some bitches who you know who chefs don't like dealing with.
+
+[49:30] I don't like salt, I don't like you know what I mean. There are people who legitimately can't have too much salt because they're hypertensive, but then there's people who say that they don't like it. People it it's it's like okay, like I'm allergic to stuff. I like I'll die if I eat like a large quantity of uh raw cherries, and the only reason I'm allergic to it is because I'm being punished for making fun of people's allergies for years. Do you know what I'm saying?
+
+[49:50] But chefs do that all the time. Yeah. You know what I'm saying? Uh but I think, you know, uh, you know, part of the if you read, if you go to uh the Amazon and you and you look at uh Michael's cookbook, Michael Mackenzie's new cookbook, uh, and you read the copy for it, which I did today, basically he's saying, you know, this is food that you'll be happy to cook for your meat-eating friends because it's basically just delicious. I love that.
+
+[50:10] I support that. Uh and it's very similar, actually. Pat Brown, who's uh professor at Stanford, who's was working on the he's a vegetarian, is working to try and make meat analogs. He's like, he's like, uh, you know, and he's doing it actually because he does want to proselytize. He wants people to stop eating meat, he wants meat to stop being produced, he wants people to stop uh farming meat.
+
+[50:27] Uh he's friends with uh Harold McGee spoke to me. Anyways, so his point is you we will you will never decrease the amount of meat that is consumed in this country by the average person unless you make a product that a meat eater wants to eat more than the meat they're eating now. And that's it. Right? Yeah.
+
+[50:43] All right, listen, I got a couple questions I didn't get to. We'll get you next week. Cooking issues fish
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+[0:00] Today's program was brought to you by Fairway Market. Check out Fairway Market.com for more information. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you live from the back of Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn, on the Heritage Radio Network, every Tuesday from roughly 12 to roughly 1245. Calling all of your questions to 718 497-2128.
+
+[0:31] That's 718-497-2128. Is that right, Jack? Did I get it right again? Uh yeah, that's right. Man, I have this thing right all the time.
+
+[0:38] I know it's like it's like uh once I forgot once I remember it, I never forget. Yeah. I'll wake up when I'm 90 and just start screaming that number out to people. Don't change that thing, because I know I'll never remember it again. Never, never change that.
+
+[0:49] Um I am not joined right now in the studio by Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, but Jack and I don't know where she is. She should be here, so she probably got caught on that L train. Damn L train. So we're gonna have to play that uh shootsey groove L train song to make fun of the L L train later again uh in one of our one of our favorite uh songs, right? So, uh what's going on here?
+
+[1:12] We have a oh is this a new question in? Yeah. Okay. Uh so while I'm waiting for Nastasha to come in, uh so I can shoot the poop with her. We'll go into some of the questions I missed from last time.
+
+[1:22] Uh Jonathan Rogers, actually his name is Jonathan Woodruff Rogers the Third. I did not know that. He uh is one of our former interns, actually, nice guy, uh at the FCI. Uh writes in a question about equipment. Hey Dave and Nastasha.
+
+[1:35] Uh nice bumping into you the other afternoon. I'm following up regarding at the bar, by the way. Um uh that's Booker and Dax, our bar. Go visit. Uh I'm just following up regarding some questions I have uh uh in my new gig.
+
+[1:46] I'm catering lunches for a few tech startup companies Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, uh, through the company City Grit. Since it's only three days a week uh plus prep, I have some free time to experiment with some food, which is good. Very few uh people who are cooking for a living actually have the time to do a lot of experimentation, which is why uh you know my job uh director of culinary technology at the French culinary, especially when I was there full time was so great for that because I didn't have a service to worry about. So that's yeah and that's why Farran shuts down his place for uh you know or you know for a half the year or whatever it is so that he has time to they have time to do experimental work. Um anyway um okay also the companies allow me to pretty much cook whatever I want uh with a six item menu that changes weekly I have roughly $7,000 to spend and was wondering what you recommend I get some information on brands andor recommendation uh recommend locations to purchase the products things I'm interested in having in my life are a deli slicer a dehydrator a meat grinder a chamber vacuum sealer a fryer a smoker or any other cool gadgets within the price range they're getting a combi oven and I currently have a circulator thinking about getting another one.
+
+[2:50] Any information or advice will help thanks again. Looking forward to stopping by and letting you know how it's going. Thanks again JW. Okay. Now $7,000 is gonna get eaten up pretty quickly.
+
+[3:02] I love a delis first of all I'll just get another circulator. That's another like $800 right there. Just get another one this way you have two and you can keep one running while you use the other one for service or you can have you know you're never gonna regret having two circulators around. Now something like a smoker I would go cheap on the smoker. The smoker nobody really likes it but the smoker that everyone gets is only like a couple like a $150.
+
+[3:26] It's like the uh I forget that there's like a little chief or a big chief or something like that. It's basically just like a quilted metal box, you know, that little fine quilt pattern, metal box with like a with a heater in the bottom. And uh the guys over at Somme have modified it by drilling a a hole in the side and putting a smoke generator with a little heater in on the side to cool the smoke down. But, you know, that's basically all there is to it. In a restaurant situation, or even in this catering situation in New York City where you don't have the space for a big dedicated smoker, these things are light, they can be moved around very easily.
+
+[4:00] And again, nobody loves them, but you know, Wiley uses it at WD50. Um they use it at Sombar. A bunch of people use this because it's cheap and it's easy to stow away when you're not using it. So that's why I'd recommend for the caterer there. Uh dehydrator, get the Excalibur.
+
+[4:16] There's no question that you should get the X caliber dehydrator, and dehydrator is a great thing to have. Uh Excalibur is the reason you want to get the Excalibur one. I've used some of the round ones that where the stuff goes through and all this other nonsense, and I've used uh I've used some various ones. Unless you can have a lot of money to or to custom build one, the Excalibur is great because it gets a lot of racks in it, and the racks are square, which means that they you can lay things out in a way that makes sense. Those round ones with a hole in the middle, what the hell are you gonna lay out in that?
+
+[4:44] It doesn't make sense. Plus, the dehydrator, it's easy to use flat sheets and dehydrate liquids to make leathers or or sheets or or papers. It's also easy to dry things on the perforated racks. It's just, you know, it's also the dehydrator is really good, the X caliber because it's very even throughout. So the top rack is gonna dry just as e evenly as the bottom rack.
+
+[5:04] You can use it for fermentation experiments. I mean, you know, I have one. Uh I've always, you know, have one. We have one at Somme, we have one at the FCI. You know, that's the one that everyone who anyone who buys a different dehydrator for a restaurant regrets it.
+
+[5:19] So uh go for the Excalibur. Uh, which I guess, you know, I guess that I'm I don't really usually recommend brands like that, but there you go. I actually paid for mine straight up on Amazon. Anyway, they're not that much. Uh for the deli slicer.
+
+[5:29] Now I've been very spoiled in my life. I don't have one right now, but uh the Hobart model 3000 is a thick slicer. I did a video for them and they gave one to me, but I left it to school. I don't know why. I should have taken that thing with me because I love that dang thing so much.
+
+[5:48] But it's it's like, you know, it props up like a car so you can clean underneath it. The blade pops out so you can throw it in the dishwasher. Uh it slices like a freaking dream. Uh, but and it slices really, really well. In fact, prior to the Hobart Model 3000, the slicer that uh always recommended people get was the Berserba SE12.
+
+[6:08] Uh slicer, meat slicer, by the way, just on meat slicer basics. Uh the average meat slicer that uh we get here in the United States is a gravity slicer, meaning they're on that angle, and you see them, if you see them at deli, they're on an angle, and you're supposed to use gravity to uh basically force the product into the blade and then slice as you go, right? And it has that little handle that you push down. Rookie mistake, i i if your slicer is not very good or your slicer is not very sharp, you have to apply a good bit of pressure on uh the item to get it to slice properly as it goes through. Uh this is a horrible practice and causes the bottom of your meat or whatever you're slicing to kind of wedge out as it's getting cut.
+
+[6:48] It's got like healing out at the bottom, and it's uh you know, it's a sign that you're that A, you're not Slicer's not great, B, it's not that sharp. Uh, and C you're pushing too hard. A properly s uh sharpened slicer should not you shouldn't have to push on it at all. Uh and part of that is having very good sharp blades. And prior to the Hobart Model 3000, the slicer that I always recommended was the Berserba SE12 because it had a really good blade and pretty solid um a pretty solid uh carriage mechanism.
+
+[7:18] Uh is but you know nowadays I recommend the Hobart, but you're gonna be able to get the Bazerba a lot cheaper than you're gonna be able to get the Hobart 3000 and the Bazerba is a great machine. It just doesn't clean uh quite as easily. The uh you might be able to get the berserba used I haven't priced one in a long time but it's gonna be a lot cheaper than the than the 3000. The 3000 though is primo. In Europe they actually use something called a vertical slicer.
+
+[7:41] And a vertical slicer is great because instead of using gravity to force the product into the blade, the the product just sits like it normally would and the carriage literally moves and feeds the uh stuff in slice by slice. And these make perfect slices again and again and actually the first slicers that were made by uh you know Burkle Van Burkel back in you know when he invented the meat slicer were vertical slicers and in Europe they continue to be popular and they make fantastic slice quality. But for some reason or other we tend not to use them in uh in the US. I don't know if you wrote down uh vacuum machine but if you I can't remember if yeah vacuum sealer if you're gonna get a vacuum sealer I mean uh go for one you can get a good price on if you're gonna get a smaller one I like the mini packs because they have a bigger chamber size. Just look at the chamber size.
+
+[8:32] I mean uh all of the hooha programming and stuff I don't know that you're gonna use it that much in your application but get one with a big chamber size. The mini pack and the smaller units especially have a good chamber size and their price uh seems to be okay. For catering I would stay away from any of like the really cheap ones because they're gonna break when you least want them to break. Get one with a with a with a the actual good German or equivalent to the German, which is um the name's out of my head. Oh my gosh.
+
+[8:55] I I speak about it all the time. The name of the pump uh starts with a B. Anyway, uh the um the pump in that is what's serious, and you gotta make sure you get the good hardcore German uh vacuum pump, oil based pump in that, otherwise you're gonna be asking for problems. Um get those. Uh make sure you have a vita prep or two.
+
+[9:16] Um and that's really you know, all the really other super high tech stuff. I mean, it's kind of like gilding the lily. You know what I mean? Mean like all the other stuff. I mean, that the the core stuff I just told you is the basis of almost everything that we use, with the exception of liquid nitrogen.
+
+[9:31] Get yourself a liquid nitrogen doer. Did I mention that? Get a liquid nitrogen doer. You're not gonna regret having liquid nitrogen. All right.
+
+[9:40] Stuck in grandma. Here we get over the microphone so people can hear you. So apparently, as we uh well, don't push my microphone away. You could climb over, go under anything other than pushing the microphone away from me while you're talking. She does not know where her body is in space, by the way.
+
+[9:54] Like the stasha has no idea where her body is within the space around her. So I'm not gonna blame her. Like I don't think she literally did that on purpose. Same way that she doesn't understand where doors are when she slams them in your face, which is a constant thing that Nastasha. Yeah, you slam.
+
+[10:09] You walk through doors and then like look like you're gonna hold them open for people and then slam them on their faces or on bicycles and stuff because you don't really pay attention to people or the world around you as you're walking. Wow. Well, I was stuck in the Grand Street station, and no one could find Phil Bravo this morning. So I was no one knows who Phil Bravo is. No one knows who Phil Bravo is.
+
+[10:26] You've talked about him before. Oh, who's Phil Bravo? He's a friend of mine, and he didn't go to work today. So and he he was last scene with me. Wow, well, that's so did you kill him?
+
+[10:37] No. No, I he was actually he was with Tristan all night. Uh Phil Bravo is very cheap, man, so I'm sure he followed wherever the uh liquor was cheapest. By the way, for those of you not hanging out in New York right now, it's James Beard kind of week, and everyone's going out crazy partying except for me. I was home uh asleep with my family last night.
+
+[10:53] I was home by midnight. Yeah? So Phil went out with Tristan until it got. I heard Harold McGee was partying like a rock star last night with Daniel Patterson and Chris Constantino. Three of our good friends uh out there uh hanging out, having fun.
+
+[11:05] Oh, speaking of James Beard, congratulations to uh Tozy, Christian Tozy, yeah. Our our good buddy went won that PDT. Uh, you know, great bar, won uh best bar. Who else won? Do you remember Daniel Hum won?
+
+[11:18] Yeah. I'm sorry for all of our friends who were up for awards that did not win, but congratulations out to those people who did. Mm-hmm. Yeah. Right?
+
+[11:25] Mm-hmm. Okay. Uh so great how long were you sitting at the Grand Street station? It was stopped for like 15 minutes. I was gonna be right on time, and it was we were stopped there with the doors open, and I was like, could I walk from here?
+
+[11:37] But then you know that minute when you're like, what if we go right now? I I do know that minute. Yeah, I know that minute. It's like, but you always get burnt by that minute. There's nothing worse than sitting in mass transit, not being able to control your destiny, thinking at any minute this sucker might move again.
+
+[11:54] And you with the door with the door was open and every second every second you got to decide whether yeah, every minute that and then it was one of those electronic things. So they just said train traffic, ahead. I was in the Grand Central the other day on Sunday, going to the Bronx Zoo, which by the way is not an eating zoo. You don't get to eat any of the animals that are at the Bronx Zoo. My kids were joking about that as we were there.
+
+[12:13] Anyways, the uh when you're the trains were not running out of Grand Central, the whole thing was shut down. It was incredibly calm. No one was flipping out, no one was anything. I've never seen Grand Central that calm. Metro North train?
+
+[12:23] Metro North trains, all of them shut down for like two and a half hours. Whoa. The only person not calm was my son liquor. Freaking out. Okay.
+
+[12:30] Uh question, another question from last week. Don writes it about soda. You may remember that I met you at the BAR, that's Beverage Alcohol Resource School in September at the Astor Center. Uh I'm in the planning phase to open a bar, and sodas slash carbonation has me uh at a conundrum. I don't want soda guns.
+
+[12:46] I wouldn't mind bottles, but that's a very high cost and a storage problem. I love the look and ease of ISI soda bottles, but the cost of chargers is stratipheric. I like the work you've done with carbonation systems using the compressor and plastic bottles, but how practical are they in a working bar? It seems to make a huge sticky mess pretty quick. What is Booker and Dax doing for carbonated beverages?
+
+[13:03] On a related note, I tried to carbonate a Nagroni using the ISI soda bottle, and I just got a glass of foam. What can I do to prevent that? Love the show, Don. Okay, carbonation in a nutshell. The only thing that's really currently available on the market right now that does really good carbonation, my level of carbonation, what I think is an acceptable level of carbonation, is um is using soda bottles with the uh carbonator cap manufactured by the Liquid Bread Corporation coming out of a five or twenty pound CO2 tank.
+
+[13:33] You need to pre-chill it much colder than refrigerator temperatures, right? Like until it's almost frozen. And then you need to uh you need to carbonate it three times before service. Uh a one liter bottle is what I recommend. A one liter bottle will hold roughly five pours of drink, and so you do a bunch beforehand and they and they get going.
+
+[13:55] The reason that you're foaming is several fold. One, you probably don't have enough water in it, right? The first mistake people are making when they're doing uh drinks is to um is to not add enough water to the carbonated drink. They they treat it like you'll make a drink by shaking, which isn't actually shaking, might make a drink cold enough to carbonate. In fact, shaking will make a drink that's kind of barely cold enough to carbonate.
+
+[14:19] The problem is shaking a drink will make a drink that's too alcoholic to be really successful over the long term as a carbonated drink. What do I mean by this? If you take a drink, a strike uh like Negroni, first of all, instead of stirring the Negroni, if you're gonna carbonate it, you must shake it. Because stirred Negroni, A, is nowhere near cold enough to carbonate properly. You're gonna foam all over the place.
+
+[14:38] And B, it's nowhere near diluted enough to carbonate properly. So the first thing you're gonna have to do when you when you make a Negroni carbonated is to shake it. Then you're gonna uh it's still gonna be too alcoholic and it will taste good for the first sips, but the problem is is that you can't have like three, two or three of those because it's gonna get not just because it's gonna mess you up, but because it's going to be uh somewhat cloying over time. If you just take that Negroni that you made that way, and just as the test, uh, and you know, I was talking to Tobichini about this, and he was saying the same thing. It's like add a little bit of soda water to that and see how much more kind of delicious and refreshing it is, just lightening it a little bit.
+
+[15:14] If you are gonna make uh a carbonated drink, I'll tell you what our ratios are at the bar. Our ratios for a drink for a five-ounce uh pour, uh, our ratios are 1.75 ounces of strong, that's of straight liquor, and 3.25 ounces of uh of water or a week, like including like simple syrup and juice and all that. And everyone's like, oh my god, that's so equal. Listen, it's not. I've done tests again and again and again and again and again and again and again, and those ratios are the ratios that make, in my opinion, a good drink.
+
+[15:51] If you have more alcohol than that, you need to get it ridiculously cold to carbonate it properly, and you're really gonna put people on the floor, right? I mean, I've done straight uh you know, 40% liquor carbonated stuff before, but they have to be basically minus uh minus 18 Celsius to work properly. Uh they don't balance well, and you can't have that very many of them, and they hit people like a ton of bricks. You're much better using the ratios that uh I just told you, getting it cold till it's almost frozen and and and doing it. The way we do it at the bar is I have a very special refrigerator, uh the Randall FX, right?
+
+[16:29] Uh, and what it can maintain very, very accurate temperatures. So I set that thing to be 23 Fahrenheit, 22, 23 Fahrenheit, which is what I think is the good place between 20 and 23 Fahrenheit, which is where I think that carbonated drinks should be. Uh, I think it's like twenty-three is what we said it at. And then I let them chill in there until they're chilled, a couple hours. Uh, and then before service, I carbonate them and they stay in there and I keep refluffing it after I do every one.
+
+[16:55] The the ISI chargers is gonna cost you too much, it's not gonna work out. Uh most people's carbonated drinks, I think are only very lightly carbonated compared to what kind of I want, and one of the reasons it is because they foam too much. It's because their drinks aren't cold enough, or they're putting it through a keg system, which causes a lot of foaming. Alcohol in general foams a lot, uh, and so you're kind of you know barking up a hard tree. Plus, you need to carbonate alcohol more than you carbonate water for the same sensation of carbonation.
+
+[17:24] So not only does alcohol foam more, but um it also needs to be carbonated higher, so you get double the foam, and so everything seems very, very foamy. Your solutions are reduce the alcohol proportion slightly and uh chill it much more than you're chilling it now. But to me, bottles are the way to go in a bar until we finish our system and get it done right, right? Right. Which I'm working on right now.
+
+[17:45] I just ordered I built one that works, and I'm building another one that works, which hopefully we're gonna take to Japan with us. Mm-hmm. You want to bring that to Japan? Because we need another thing that can break when we go somewhere, right? Yeah.
+
+[17:54] Right? Yeah. Nothing's better than stuff that breaks. You like breaking stuff? Yes.
+
+[17:58] It's awesome. Awesome. Okay. Uh that answered that show that question, right? Alright, why don't we take our first commercial break and uh come back with some more questions?
+
+[18:07] No hour rock the hot party at the drop of a hat. Yeah, I need a bite now with the Luna back. A lot of people maybe told you that they hear me rock the mind. Maybe staring at the radio, staying up all night. Today's program was brought to you by Fairway Markets.
+
+[18:21] Whether you are cooking for one or for a craft. Fairway market literally has everything you need for a fantastic meal. But if you don't feel like cooking, no worries. They cater. Check out Fairway Market.com for more information.
+
+[18:34] And be sure to check the new blog on our plate for weekly specials, health tips, and recipes. It's the joy. That's a baseline right there, huh? Oh, yeah, but it says that's your homage to MCA, huh? Yeah.
+
+[18:58] You know, I didn't even know. It sucks. I didn't even know that he died until a couple days afterwards. But that's the end of an era, right? Yeah, indeed.
+
+[19:06] Uh, and uh an interesting tidbit there is a Tibetan doctor advised him to go vegan in uh the last month or so. Yeah. So who so okay? What's the meaning of that? I'm just putting that out there.
+
+[19:20] I know. Well, you know, they were saying when Steve Jobs passed that uh he was he was vegan stubbornly, and and then it may have not been the best idea. Really? But look, it it turns out that uh turns out that we all die eventually. Like this is one of those things that happens.
+
+[19:34] Like regardless of whether you eat vegan or not, turns out you're gonna die. Uh it's one of the hard things to kind of like kind of get a handle on, but it's true. Uh and uh uh one of the things that bothers me is uh any sort of health claim related to uh diet. While it's true that I think I could construct pretty unhealthy diets out of any sort of uh uh food taste or food thing, like I could construct an incredibly unhealthy vegan diet. I could construct a healthy vegan diet.
+
+[20:05] I could construct an incredibly unhealthy meat-based diet, I could construct a healthy one. I mean, in other words, it's like it's uh you know, the idea that you could I mean, first of all, when you're really sick, uh I know I would be grasping at anything to try and make myself uh be better, but my semi-healthy self telling myself now in the future is uh first of all, when you're sick, it's already too too dang late. I I'd like to hear someone not too dang late. I mean, obviously if you have a long-term chronic thing, you change your habits, you get better, right? I mean uh I just I I'm very uh I don't like in general the notion of people selling dietary cures to be able to do that.
+
+[20:45] Yeah, that was my point kind of too. Yeah. I mean, I'd I would love to hear someone call in and tell me that I'm the world's biggest jerk off for saying that, but in general, uh my philosophy, not backed by science, but my philosophy is that uh the healthiest diet is to eat a wide variety of uh interesting foods in moderation that make you happy and sated. Mm-hmm. Yeah?
+
+[21:10] Yeah. Now, if you're happy and sated, uh eating vegan because you don't want to take in animal products, then you should eat vegan, right? Yeah. You know? Um speaking of which, go on the uh Amazon and look up uh Michael uh Natkin's book.
+
+[21:26] I'm curious to see how how it's how it's doing. Hopefully doing quite well. We'll give you a follow-up on the thing. Uh we talked about his book last week and uh his uh kind of slap across our face for um talking about uh people's dietary choices. Okay.
+
+[21:40] Uh long time listener Ken Ing Ken Ingber writes in uh two things. One, he wrote uh an article about a coffee trip that he took to um you know New York. Uh we read it. We couldn't read it online, uh, you know, on the air because it, you know, it was long, right? Uh, but apparently he's gonna get it published in Coffee Geek, maybe, which is nice.
+
+[21:58] Yeah. Right? But uh just to give you a preview in case it comes out on there, he had enough shots of espresso during a day to to basically turn him into a Christmas chihuahua. Just like, you know, shaking, caffeinated. I'm sure he did.
+
+[22:11] I mean I didn't see him afterwards, but I'm assuming I know if I had that much caffeine in me, it would be uh a nightmare. And I'm a very caffeinated fellow. Okay. Uh Ken Right in. I'm making a French dinner this week, and of course it's two weekends ago, so we missed it.
+
+[22:24] I'm making a French dinner this weekend. I wanted to end with good humor. Good humor is a pun in this case. Uh, in particular, my dessert will be a creamsicle brulee, uh, creme boulet with blood orange foam. I aspire to get my guests weeping a la alinea over their childhood memories of a good humor creamsicle, but I will settle for an appreciative groan.
+
+[22:39] So, how do I make uh foam with juice? I combine the juice with li liquid less than and put it in my espresso milk frother. I got no foam and lecithin did not mix with the juice, but instead stuck to the spring coil frothing device and it's next to impossible to clean. Liquid lecithin is nasty. Nat lessanthan in general is pretty nasty.
+
+[22:55] I only I very rarely use lethicin, by the way. Have you ever seen me use it? No. No, I don't use it. I imagine Modernist Pantry has some magic powder, but the dinner is Saturday, so I do have a lot of time.
+
+[23:04] I have agar agar in the house, but don't think that's suitable. Can I just use a little egg white and live the guests use uh ask if I'm using raw eggs? Uh uh follow up to that. Cancel my request on the foam unless you find it interesting. Uh I was unsuccessful using the lecithin uh despite multiple assurances on the internet.
+
+[23:21] I'm throwing it away, I'm throwing it away as it is not pleasant to work with. It is as pleasant as roofing tar. Uh I used egg white and gelatin, uh, the foamer, hot and cold in immersion blender, and had some success with gelatin, uh, but it was a lot of fuss and uh didn't do it because it was a pain in the butt. Okay. Uh I assume something like VersaWhip would work.
+
+[23:37] As I said, I did not have time to order from Modernist Pantry oh well. Well, Ken, you know Modernist Pantry has quick shipping to anyone in the world. In fact, someone else wrote in, we'll get to it later, basically saying that it was quick, but um VersaWhip, you're quite white, right? Versaw whip is uh what you should probably use for that. Uh and uh Ebon Freeman, our friend Ebon Freeman, uh had a blood and sand recipe with an orange foam on top that was in fact made with uh versa whip.
+
+[24:02] And uh his recipe is 200 grams of orange juice and 2.5 grams of versa whip. Uh he doesn't say what kind of versa whip because that's like Ebon, he just won't tell you what kind. You know what I mean? Thanks, Ebon. Anyway, uh 2.5 grams of VersaWhip, which is a lot of Vers Whip.
+
+[24:18] It's like a you know, it's a lot, right? Uh it's over a percent. In general, I try to add gums in in the percent or less range, but in this case I don't think it matters because it's gonna be whipped up. And a half gram of Xanthan gum. And the Xanthan is there to provide body to it and to hold once it whips up.
+
+[24:33] The VersaWhip's a whipping agent, but the VersaWhip's not gonna hold the foam, right? The Xanthan is there to hold the foam uh uh after the Versawhip whips it up. Okay? And then using a immersion blender with a whisk attachment to whip it into a foam and laid it all on top. Another thing you can do that's incredibly simple and doesn't require ordering anything online and creates a very dense orangey, orangey foam.
+
+[24:56] It's you're gonna want to uh acid it acidify it a little bit. So orange plus a little bit of uh of lemon to make it uh you know more like a sour orange, right? Set that into an agar gel, pretty stiff, like 0.8 to 1% agar gel. Blend it in a blender, now you have a fluid gel. If you mix that with straight cream in a whipper in an ISI whipper, uh when you squirt it out, you get a dense, dense foam, and the agar fluid gel uh stops the cream from breaking, and you actually can have the a really dense creamsicle like fluid gel, and we've done that many times, and that's my favorite kind of citrus foam because it has that awesome mouthfeel of whipped cream, which you can't beat.
+
+[25:39] You can't beat the mouthfeel of whipped cream, right? Mm-hmm. In fact, it's even denser than whipped cream. It's like dense and creamy, but also orangey and acidic without breaking. And that'll hold for a while.
+
+[25:49] So next time you do it, or if anyone wants to do it, like I think that's a good uh that's a good way to do it, right? Yes. Yes, Nash is like, yeah, I don't really care. I don't care. No, so this his book, Michael Natkin's book, got 10 five-star reviews.
+
+[26:03] Wow. It's beautiful. Yeah, it is beautiful. So maybe we should buy it. How much is it?
+
+[26:07] 1629. 1629 Prime on Amazon. You know what? I'll I'll make sure we book him for one of the other shows where we do more uh, you know, authors of books and stuff like that. And he used to be a an engineer on the dinosaurs in Jurassic Park.
+
+[26:20] What? Whoa. What do you mean? Where is it? He was a software engineer making dinosaurs for Jurassic Park.
+
+[26:28] That's Baller. Yeah. You know, my wife was saying, should we let the kids watch the Jurassic Park or is it too damn scary? I think it's the guy gets eaten. Yeah, that's the postman from Seinfeld gets eaten.
+
+[26:39] Right. I was pretty young when I saw it, and it was pretty awesome though. Well, how young is young? I think I must have been like s I'll have to look it up. I'll actually go look up the release date.
+
+[26:48] Yeah. Yeah, anyway, so uh everyone should go out and buy his book. We're gonna buy a copy of the book, and uh Jack's gonna try to get him booked onto a show. Yeah, and let's have him build it down. I was seven years old, sorry.
+
+[26:59] I was seven. Seven? Man, I was like eighty-five when that movie came out. Okay. Uh Chip writes in regarding circulators.
+
+[27:06] Uh he misses the hammer and Dave and Jack, but does not miss Carlos. Wow. Really? Yeah. Hardcore.
+
+[27:14] Man, I like a guy who respects the loyalty. Miss the hammer, like Mr. or Mrs. Oh, maybe Miss the Hammer and Dave. Yeah.
+
+[27:23] And Jack, but not Carlos. He does say but not Carlos, but he's messed up. He's not saying hello. Or he's not missing. Anyway, anyway.
+
+[27:29] Alright, regardless. Uh he says, I know you're not the biggest proponent of DIY thermal circulators, but my wife won't let me drop a G on one yet. So I had to do my best. I'm familiar with this problem, Chip. Uh I made the version on Seattle Food Geek a while back, but quickly found that the pump being submerged was the slash a problem.
+
+[27:46] Well, I was cooking potatoes, uh I guess it went south on him when we was cooking potatoes for the modernist cuisine yuckey recipe. So I wanted to move it out of the water. Finding a pump that would A handle the heat and B would be self priming was a bit of a challenge. But if there is a need, it is sold on eBay. So I found one there.
+
+[28:02] That's that's fact. There's almost every dang thing on eBay. Almost, almost every dang thing on eBay. I used an uh an SSR, which is a solid state relay for all you folks out there. By the way, in case you're the person who listens to our show doesn't know what a circulator is.
+
+[28:14] Uh it's uh a device that uh keeps water usually or any other liquid, but with a DIY, definitely only use water and try to keep it clean. Uh uh at a very precise temperature, which is invaluable for doing kind of modern low temperature cooking, which is you know, I I I use it all the time. They're about 800 bucks now uh at the uh at JB Prince or at the William Sonoma. Um and so a lot of people have been making their own. Uh by the way, uh I am not against DIY uh circulators.
+
+[28:46] In fact, I applaud anyone that wants to build something themselves. It's just usually you end up with something where you've spent a lot of hours building it and it's not quite as functional. I think there's so many people working on the DIY circulators that I'm pretty sure they're pretty good by now. But he's quite right. The main problem is the the pump.
+
+[29:04] Uh let me go on to keep on going. Uh I also uh this is chip again. I also had the uh the case for it, laser cut on Pinocco.com. Pinocco.com is pretty cool. You just send them like the pictures and they can laser cut stuff and they ship it back to you.
+
+[29:17] Uh so it took a little more, so it looks a little more like a retail product. I still need to address some of the visual issues with it, but what is it works for now? I like what is Victoria says that. Uh our our our uh our former enter works with us a lot. Anyway, uh anyway, I thought I'd share.
+
+[29:30] Thanks for the great show. Modernist Pantry does have fast chipping. Thanks, Chip. I looked at uh at Chip's Circulator. I don't know if it's available online.
+
+[29:36] Damn thing does look pretty good. Uh, one thing I'm gonna say: if you're gonna build a circulator, the main parts are a controller. Controllers can now be had for $30 or less uh in that range on eBay and at Auburn Instruments. Uh some people buy controllers with relays in them. I don't recommend using a regular relay because it's another failure point that I don't enjoy having.
+
+[29:56] I don't enjoy failure points. Uh I use a solid state relay, which he uses. They're not that expensive. They can be had for very cheap at this point. Um, and a an immersion heater, which you can basically crib from almost anything.
+
+[30:08] A you know, a hot water heater, whatever. I don't know what these guys are using, DIY. A temperature sensor, again, only a several dollar problem now. And then the case, that's the hard part, and the pump. Pumps break a lot.
+
+[30:20] And real circulators basically uh have a long shaft, and they just sit there spinning a stainless steel blade to do the pumping, and it ends up being good over the long term. I've had most of my plastic uh in and out pumps like the one you're using here fail over time, but uh, you know, good luck with it. It looks like a good job. Looks like you did a good job, right? Yeah.
+
+[30:39] Yep. You want to take one more commercial break? Let's take another commercial break. Call your questions. 27184972128.
+
+[30:44] That's 784972128! Hey! Hey ladies in the place of calling out to you! I never was a city kid, true. Talk pushman on the foolery!
+
+[31:13] Women on TV with the heavy tough rulery. We're throwing out just like critics. And I'm always not looking for the female cut. I'm ready! I'm feeling on time, you might feel it.
+
+[31:32] Then I can crack some back up on ceiling. Such is sucked to me the waste that I'm doing. I'm talking to the girl, telling her I'm well going. She's talking to the crib, crib it to the city. I'm telling her every line that you know that I never did.
+
+[31:44] Ladies! Nice one, Jack. Nice one. Uh Nastasha, for those of you that don't know, likes to just kind of like make weird judgments about things. Decided.
+
+[32:02] Parrots are like this too, by the way. Just decide does not like uh my shirt. Right? Uh and the reason is I'm wearing one of my favorite shirts, which is a hunting shirt. It's Blaze Orange.
+
+[32:14] And her opinion is that it makes me look like a uh prison uh work gang. Who the reason prisoners wear orange is the same reason hunters wear orange is to be seen easily. The hunters do it so they don't get shot, and the prisoners do it so that they can get shot if they try to escape. See, slightly different. But uh, none of that has anything to do with my shirt, which uh I'm not neither hunting nor hopefully going to prison today.
+
+[32:39] So uh I don't really understand uh Nastash's problem with it. Anyway. Derek Bodkin writes in uh about uh a popcorn machine. Dave and Co. recently I learned about Chinese popcorn in uh Parenz.
+
+[32:53] Uh not Prince, quotes. Why I say Prince, I'm a quotes. Uh apparently a method where colonels are seal kernels are sealed in a container and superheated, then allowed to explosively decompress, popping them all at once. Here is a link. And you look on like look for explosively awesome on the internet's uh and boing boing and whatnot.
+
+[33:11] In your humble opinions, is it possible to hack together a setup to do this in a home kitchen? Thanks for your help and insight and keep being awesome, Derek Botkin. Okay. You have asked a question uh that I actually do know something about because I actually have tried to do this at home before many, many, many years ago. Like uh before I had kids, so it's more than 10 years ago, probably 12 years ago, 13 years ago.
+
+[33:33] Um so I have been interested in a long time for uh in a piece of equipment called a puffing gun. Now, when uh when they were inventing breakfast cereals uh at the beginning of the 20th century, and end of the 19th, beginning of the 20th century, and you know, in that range uh was when all of the really butt-kicking breakfast cereal concepts were invented, except one. Except one. So uh flakes were invented back then, and the way they were made is with a giant oversized basically pasta machine where you like you temper out uh actual whole kernels and you feed them through these incredibly, they're cooled and they're incredibly massive uh and sturdy roll rollers, and it just boop smashes them into flakes, and the flakes shoot out onto uh onto a mat, and that's it, they're done. That was invented back then.
+
+[34:23] The shredder to make shredded wheat was invented back then, and that's basically the same concept, but the roller has ridges in it, so it extrudes them into shredded wheat shapes, right? Um also uh at that time was invented the puffing gun. And the puffing gun, right, is an amazing piece of equipment where what you do is so corn you can pop normally. There's really no need to do this with popcorn because corn, you can pop, you know what I mean? But you can't pop wheat, uh, and you can't pop rice the same way.
+
+[34:55] You can puff it by frying, but you can't puff it the same way popcorn does. And the reason is is that the uh the outside, the skin of the popcorn, is so uh it seals in the water so well that when you're uh heating it in oil, water pressure can build up on the inside of the kernel in the endosperm to the point where it explosively decompresses and you get popcorn, right? That's what's happening. When you do wheat, it's very hard to do regular wheat because uh the moisture leaks out of the uh out of the outside, right? Because it's not as uh hard, the outside's not as like no leak proof.
+
+[35:31] And so it won't pop explosively the same way that uh popcorn will. So the solution to this, right? Same with rice, the solution to this is to heat these uh these items under a lot of pressure. What's a lot of pressure? Uh like 175 psi in that range because they're trying to get it up to the same temperatures that you would get when you're frying popcorn, like 360, three in that range, 350 Fahrenheit, 360 Fahrenheit, around there, right?
+
+[35:59] And so you start with uh grain that has the proper amount of moisture in it, which I forget what that is, I can go look it up. It's something like 10% or something in that range, right? You then seal it, you heat it under a massive amount of pressure, and what that means is is that the water inside is uh hot, right? And it's also under pressure so it won't boil. Then you release the pressure very suddenly, and all of a sudden all that water expands all at once and it pops.
+
+[36:27] It doesn't need the outside of the grain to hold the moisture in the way that you would uh with regular popcorn. Uh so the unit that you pointed to on the video that the guy is using on the street corner, I would not walk anywhere near that sucker. That sucker was so freaking ghetto, that thing could blow up at any second. I happen to know that when he's puffing that stuff, it's under at least 150 PSI, probably higher, right? So you don't want to and basically what you do is is he literally has uh a like a like a like what looks like a homemade boiler that he's spinning, and that's good because you need to you know get the heat evenly transferred throughout it, right?
+
+[37:06] So it's spinning over a fire that he has stoked with coal and with like what looks like a modified hairdryer, right? And and what looks like a freaking vice grip holding the whole damn thing together, right? He looked like happy. He looked happy because he's not dead. Every second that he works and he's not dead, he's happy.
+
+[37:25] Then he sticks it into uh you know this what looks like a long windsock, which was incredibly dirty by the way. I don't know that I'd but I mean it was incredibly dirty. Uh and then puts a stick in, pulls the pin, bam, the thing blows up. Now maybe this thing is actually manufactured by somebody to some sort of specifications, but the idea of heating something over an open fire with no protection that looks homemade to 170 PSI, 150, 170 PSI, and then explosively decompressing it time after time outside, it uh freaks me out. Put it that way.
+
+[38:00] So, how did I attempt to do this? I bought uh some pipes that were rated to 150 uh PSI or higher. Actually, I got like an 80, 80 um schedule 80, which was rate rated higher than 150 PSI, uh made out of steel. I uh put them all together uh with uh heater, water heater on the inside, which was one of the weak points, and an overpressure valve so that it wouldn't go above the pressure that I wanted to, and a thermometer, all done with pipes, whether regular pipes. Uh filled it with uh corn, which is my first test because I was trying to I was I was working on a on a um on doing a nuclear explosion uh out of candy and popcorn, and so I was trying to actually do a puffing gun thing for that.
+
+[38:41] Uh and uh the problem was is that the piping system that I had didn't seal properly and so I was getting venting and steam out. I did get it up to like 120 psi before I and I literally like like I said, I used vice grips with like a with a pull string to pull it, and uh I what I successfully did was spray burning hot popcorn kernels all over my all over my house. I didn't actually I popped maybe four or five of them, but I didn't get it to be done the way uh the way you'd want. And I think my main problem was is I tried to have a little bit of water medium in there to heat it. I tried heating it internally instead of having an external fire with rotation, which is the way that it's always done, is external heat and agitation.
+
+[39:24] Uh and the piping system, it was just hard to get it to seal very well, that thick pipe, because it was like two-inch pipe. It was hard to get it to seal accurately at those high, high temperatures because uh the I used Teflon tape, but it I don't know, it just didn't work. So uh I'm gonna build one eventually because for the Museum of Food and Drink cereal exhibition, we're gonna have uh a cereal exhibit in the Museum of Food and Drink, which we're working on now. We have our first we have our well, we have a new full-time uh employee at the Museum of Food and Drink, even though he's not getting paid. So he's not an employee, I guess, because he's not getting paid.
+
+[39:55] But Peter Kim, formerly one of our lawyers uh at uh Devil Boysm and Big Plympton. Uh big Plumpton. Anyway, so like they uh uh he quit being a lawyer. He believes in the museum project so much he quit being a lawyer and he is now working in the museum full time, which we're very, very excited about. Uh so the museum will have one.
+
+[40:14] There are small commercial machines that that are not quite so uh wonky in Korea that actually make puffed rice cakes, alimine newt. And I forget the name of them, but it's something like like bing like bing bjing the noise of the actual thing working is what it is in Korean, but I don't know what the noise is, so I can't tell you what it is. But you could go look that up. Uh the third and uh and uh the third kind of uh machine, by the way, for cereal, uh and it it was the one that was not invented early on in the game is the twin screw extruder, which basically was a piece of equipment that was invented for the plastics industry, and that's how they make Captain Crunch uh and all things like that. They basically have a screw under enormous pressure that takes in grains uh or whatever, under enormous pressure, and then it heats up the pressure and the and the actual screw mechanism of putting it through the thing heats it up so that when it comes out of a dye at the end, much like a pasta dye, like a pasta extruder, but it's under such heat and pressure that when it comes out the end, it whoop puffs up into Captain Crunch or Kicks or whatever, and that's how they make all of those cereals.
+
+[41:22] And so we're gonna have one of those at the exhibit too, because that's pretty badass, right? It is. Yeah, I've always wanted one of those. I went to uh I went to visit Cornell years ago and they let me look at theirs. They have small pilot ones.
+
+[41:34] Shouldn't we get one? Yeah, we should. Right? Let's get Peter on that. Let's get Peter on that son of a gun.
+
+[41:38] Right? But we want a big one, like that's the thing. Like, if we got anyone out there who has used cereal equipment, I called up the Pure Manufacturing Corporation, by the way, is the corporation that used to make all the old puffing guns. They no longer use uh those puffing guns um in commercially in the US. They've moved to a system called a continuous puffer.
+
+[41:55] That's a batch puffing thing. Uh and you know, but they've moved to continuous puffers, and so all the old ones get sent back refurbed, and now most of them are are used in factories in Mexico. So I wasn't able to locate someone with an old uh puffing gun that wanted to donate it to the museum. So if anyone out there uh can get their hands on an old Puritan manufacturing uh corporation puffing gun, the museum would love. And we are now 501c3, right?
+
+[42:21] We're still pending. We're still pending. We're still pending, but believe me, we're gonna get that 501c3. So you'll be able to write off that Puritan puffing gun when you donate it to the museum, and the little kids are gonna be so happy when we're exploding cereal in front of their parents. Imagine that.
+
+[42:34] Like 10, 9, 8, well, all the way down to one. Boom! And like cereal spraying everywhere, goggles and bowls, and we're gonna have like better than the um what was that store in Times Square, your kids liked? Oh, which one? Uh Pop-Tart.
+
+[42:47] Oh, the Pop-Tart Pop-Up? The Pop-Tart pop-up. They weren't making Pop Tarts. Here's the thing. No, they weren't making it.
+
+[42:53] Yeah, no, they had these machines that you could make pick your own pack and it would do it, but it's not like I mean, and they charged a lot. Charged a lot. All right. Finally, uh in from uh Elliot Papanot writes in, uh, longtime listener. Uh Dave, Nastasha, and Jack.
+
+[43:11] What book, and he I got this over Twitter too, actually. Cool. I'm on the Twitter now, by the way. You know, if people keep addressing me in these questions, I'm gonna have to try to answer one of them. Well, you mean try, Jack, don't try.
+
+[43:20] What do you mean, don't try? What the hell's that? Thanks. Nastash is so rough. By the way, by the way, by the way, before I get into this question, uh, I'm gonna run, you know, a minute late, like I always do, or three or four.
+
+[43:32] But like uh, so I say to Nesta Nastasha, like she she says that she never answers questions here when I ask her because I don't give her the time to answer. I think okay. What do you mean? Is that what you n is that not what you say to me? I I just remember what David Chang's explanation.
+
+[43:53] We'll get into that in a second. Okay. We'll get into that in a second. My point is we're on the radio. It's not like Nastasha wants me to ask her a question and then pause for like 35, 40 seconds and wait for an answer.
+
+[43:59] And I'm like, you know, we're on the radio. It's not like at the dinner table where like, you know, they can see the thoughtful pause. You know? You know what I'm saying? So she she says I don't give uh enough uh time.
+
+[44:15] And she's referring to another time when Dave Chang was laughing at me. Nastasha, this is Nastasha's favorite comment of all times. It is. Is it basically uh and he's talking about like a uh uh a demo I was doing with McGee where I will ask a question, then answer it, ask a question, then answer it without letting the other person. Well he's like, Harold, what color is the sky today?
+
+[44:34] And Harold's like Well I and David's like, it's blue, it's blue. I'm not first of all, I'm not like that. I'm not like that. No, I guess. I'm not uh whatever.
+
+[44:43] We can have more more discussions about this later. But the final question in what book do you recommend about Alliums? I just ordered Having Your Ramps and Eating Them Too by Glenn Facmeyer Jr. Hopefully it does not suck. Now, first of all, I think Facmire is an amazing name.
+
+[44:59] Do you love that name? I like it. Facmeyer. 'Cause it sounds like you're mired in facts. Like like you don't even like facts, but like you're stuck in 'like quicksand, you can't get out.
+
+[45:08] You know what I mean? Mm-hmm. I like that. But you want to talk about how much you have we already talked about how much you hate ramps on the on the on the show? Yeah, we have.
+
+[45:14] We have. Yeah? I think they're good. I don't like people's like of them. See, this is classic Nastasha here.
+
+[45:20] The actual product is good, but the people the fact that people like them is no good, and therefore she does not like them or does not want to see them. Same is true with weather. Uh she doesn't like good weather. What? You feel the same about weather.
+
+[45:34] No, no, I'm a little bit. No, I but I still like the you do not like weather, good weather, because other people like it. Because they get overly happy about it. Like with ramps. Overly happy.
+
+[45:47] Crazy. Okay. I feel you on the ramps thing. Thank you, Jack. Well, of course, you work in Rampland.
+
+[45:53] We're here at Roberta's. Like Roberta's is like, you know, happy feely, forage, growths. Yeah. Okay. Hopefully, Senor Fackmeyer's book on ramps does not suck.
+
+[46:06] Uh, with ramp season ending and green garlic and scape season beginning. Can you talk about some things uh to do with alliums, nitro muddling maybe? Uh, and uh by the way, he also has a separate question which I'll answer, which is what are some good books on uh alliums? I'm also having uh do you understand what this is? Is that a hoe?
+
+[46:24] It's like a oh, he's also having a really nice hoe made by red pig uh is that what do you call that? A hoe? Some sort of garden implement there made by uh red pig tools for my mom for Mother's Day. Hopefully your mom doesn't. Of course your mom doesn't listen to the show, but it looks like a very nice thing.
+
+[46:37] I'm sure she'll be very happy. Have you ever considered using Twitter or Facebook for questions for the show? Well, I did get from you this question, so I am gonna answer uh both parts of it. On I don't own any books on onions exclusively. I own two books on garlic that address onions somewhat, uh, and I'll talk about uh both of them.
+
+[46:55] The one I've spoken about on this show before, which is um uh it's called uh Garlic and Other Alliums by uh Eric Block, and it is kind of it's supposed to be a compendium of lore and science and all this, but it's it has some of the lore and a lot of the history and a lot of the bibliography on garlic. Uh but the science is fairly in-depth, and it serves really kind of as a review from time immemorial of the science behind the chemistry of alliums, which is quite complex, and some stuff on on like its cookery and its use, but it's strongest on the science and on taxonomy and things like that for garlic and other alliums, onions and whatnot. Uh it's dense, right? Uh the other book I have is called The Complete Book of Garlic, A Guide for Gardeners, Growers and Serious Cooks by Ted Jordan Meredith. And that book is uh fantastic and you had mentioned on the Twitter that uh you were interested in books that talked about cultivation.
+
+[47:55] And that book is a nice book to read. It depressed me because I don't have the ability to grow garlic. I don't have the ability to grow anything uh where I live because I don't get light. I can't even have a window box because I don't really get light in my apartment. Nastasha has a plot of land.
+
+[48:06] I do. Where's that second? 48th Street. It's in a community garden. They gave me another plot because they were so impressed with my plot.
+
+[48:13] Yeah, or no one else wanted it. I guess I w we'll choose to think that it's because you did such a good job. They told me I did a really good job. But you had that Latvian lady tell you that your job sucked. That was when it was all seedlings.
+
+[48:24] Now it's all out and it looks beautiful. Better than the people next door? Oh yeah. Yeah? Mm-hmm.
+
+[48:29] Nastasha, by the way, has a feeling that she's great at all the things like this. But I I tend to think that she probably has a good garden. I do, I do. I do. I'll bring a picture.
+
+[48:37] Yeah? Yeah. Maybe you'll post it on our post on the Twitter account. Okay. Uh okay.
+
+[48:43] So uh the the the point is is that this book is depressing for me because I can't grow garlic, but it doesn't even have recipes, which I love. What it is is it's a book about garlic varieties and uh some history and some lore and uh how they're used in a culinary sense, what makes a great culinary garlic and uh and all the different varieties and planners' notes and how to grow them and where they respond best, uh, with lots of great pictures, uh, but without recipes and clearly written by someone who cooks with them all the time and knows how to cook. Uh and these kind of books are rare. Usually you either have books that are basically recipe books that have something about the actual product, right? Like garlic in this case, or you have books that are exclusively about garlic with that aren't written from the perspective of a cook.
+
+[49:32] This is you know fairly rare in this kind of field, in that it's a book written for uh uh people who are gardeners, but who garden with garlic not because they're interested in garlic as a theoretical thing, but because they're interested in garlic the cooking item. Uh and it's a good book for that. It's great. If you are planning on growing garlic, uh go ahead and get it. Uh one of the best discussions of it is uh he has it goes to a very good discussion in that book about um about why you would plant different kinds of garlic, and it's because different kinds of garlic are good as the season progresses, very much similar to kind of what I say about apples, that apples uh there's an apple for every time and for every place.
+
+[50:12] So, you know, he goes through uh what I thought is a very great discussion of kind of the usefulness of having different varieties and also of kind of the challenges of growing garlic and the fact that garlic uh over the first couple of years that you planted in your in your garden is going to climatize to your garden. It's just really I think it's an interesting book. Uh I would I would go with that. I don't have a good uh onion onion book for you now. Garlic start as a seed?
+
+[50:34] You plant the you put you plant the the one of the yeah, you plant the clove. Yeah. Yeah. Uh anywho, um and it talks something about using he hasn't used the bulbills that much, but it talks about using scapes and all those other things and what he uses. But it's not a recipe book, thank God.
+
+[50:51] Um as for uses, I mean, other than the ones that we always I don't have any new onion uses. I mean, other than the ones we always always harp on, which is pressure cooking onions, uh, which you know Nils used to make ice cream with. Uh, I like pressure, I like uh doing like dual onion soup, like pressure cooked massive amounts of pressure cooked onions into a beef stock or veg, I guess, and then uh, and then sauteing onions regularly and adding them for like mega onion soups. I like that. Straight up pressure cooked onion soup is a little light on onion flavor, right?
+
+[51:25] Um because but it's incredibly sweet. Um I mean, garlic, the same thing. Most of my tricks are pressure cooking, like pressure cooking massive amounts of garlic to make sauces for pizzas uh that are like half garlic. I mean, I I do that, you know, pretty much all the time. I make a lot of sauces that way.
+
+[51:42] Do we have any other good onion tricks? No? Ice cream you said? I already said that. Anything?
+
+[51:48] No? No? Go get yourself some Chinese chives. They're fantastic to cook with, wilted, sauteed with uh bacon. They're delicious.
+
+[51:56] Um anyway. So uh that is that. That is cooking issues, and come back next week. Uh thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on heritage radio network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows.
+
+[52:19] You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up to date news and information. Thanks for listening. You got my head all twisted. And I guess can't get it straight.
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+[0:02] Broadcasting live from Roberta's in Bushwood, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. I'm Will Harris, and today's program has been brought to you by White Oak Pastures. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from Roberta's Pizzeria on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from roughly 12 to roughly 1245.
+
+[0:39] Was joined in the studio by Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, but when I opened up my bag, I found that my quart containers of coriander syrup for tonight's event for the Museum of Food and Drinks spilled all over the inside of my bag. And as everyone knows, I love sticky bags and losing all of my product, don't you, Jack? Yes. Yeah, it's good stuff. Yeah!
+
+[0:57] Huge fan. Yeah, huge. Luckily, uh, as is normal, I overmade what I needed, and so I'm pretty sure I'll have enough uh for the event. But we'll see. Uh, we'll give you uh a rundown next week on how the event went, but I am doing beers and brats.
+
+[1:13] So I'm gonna do in uh in a in a circulator, immersion circulator, I'm gonna hold some bratwurst that uh was made by uh Pat Lafrida uh at uh about 140, which is uh 60 degrees Celsius in beer. I'm just gonna let it sit there for a long time. Then uh as soon as I get there, but to the French culinary, which is where our event's gonna be today. Good old FCI French Culinary Institute. Uh, I'm gonna see what the hottest thing I have in the world is to finish the brats off, and we're just gonna stick them in regular, I think like Martin's potato rolls, right?
+
+[1:38] That sounds good, right? Yeah, I'm gonna try to make it to the event. Yeah, it'd be awesome. And then and then, right? So here's what I figure, right?
+
+[1:45] I need something that's easy because I need to roll in to be able to do the event, and that's easy. I need something that's delicious, and I need something that's gonna anchor you because we're having a whole bunch of really good bartenders there making drinks. The event's sponsored by uh William Grant, which is, you know, they do uh Hendrix and whatnot. Uh Booker and Dax, Tristan from Booker and Dax is coming and we're gonna make a uh we're gonna make a it's sort of like a coriander mule kind of a situation, like coriander uh with a little bit of red pepper and lime juice and uh vodka, and we're gonna carbonate that son of a gun, put some mint in it, and I think people are just gonna crush the hell out of it. Yeah, sounds like a crushable drink.
+
+[2:21] Oh, yeah. Jason Lattrell is going a little nut baggy. You ready for this one? Jason is uh Jason Latrell, a good friend of ours. He's doing, I swear to Christ, Welch's grape soda and Hendrix Gin.
+
+[2:31] Wow. Right? Yeah. Really? Well, look, I don't know whether he's just saying that to like mess with Nastasha or whether he's hit.
+
+[2:39] I mean, he might look first of all, Nastasha, who I I I actually, you know, for those of you, I don't really like to give her crap unless she's here. It's no fun if she's not here. Yeah, that's true. Yeah, but she had uh especially when she's off fixing my mistakes, apparently because my uh core containers weren't sealed properly. But um uh I uh you know, she had never heard of Welch's grape soda before.
+
+[3:00] No. Yeah. Is that an East Coast thing? I didn't think so. I mean I've I grew up with knowing Welch's grape soda.
+
+[3:07] Right. Yeah. But I mean I'm from New York, so I'm from New York too. Biggie Smalls calls out Welch's grape soda. Yeah, exactly.
+
+[3:13] You know, grape soda. What the hell? But grape soda and Hendrix? Look, man, I look, I think, you know, I trust my man Latrell. Latrell's a good man.
+
+[3:21] So I'm sure that uh it's gonna be some delicious, but all I have going through my head is kind of biggie biggie smalls, you know. Uh yeah, anyway. Uh yeah. Okay. So, oh, but speaking of core containers, I discovered something interesting about core containers.
+
+[3:36] I've been using them for a bazillion years, and I recommend everyone go out and have eight boatloads of quart containers in their house because it's the way to store your leftovers in your in your fridge. They stack, you can bring they're awesome. They they have only like one or two downsides. One is they get very brittle when they're frozen. Uh and this the second is that if you if basically if you don't dry them out well, they pick up smells.
+
+[4:01] So you have to smell core containers and make sure they haven't, you know, and let them dry open and stuff like that. I always yell at people for this. But uh I've my wife doesn't let me uh nuke. Nuke means microwave uh stuff in it to reheat it because she's worried about plastics leaching out. And I try to say that, you know, I don't know, but one thing I have always noticed when you nuke with the lid on is that the lid deforms and explodes.
+
+[4:21] You notice that, Jack? You ever done that? I I have seen that before. Yeah, the lid deforms and explodes, but the uh container is fine, right? And one of the reasons I've always thought it was really fine to microwave and a polypropylene uh well, the core container, which are made of polypropylene, is that the melting point of polypropylene a lot higher than a lot of the other things we deal with, like for instance polyethylene, plastic wrap.
+
+[4:43] So you can actually pressure cook uh polypropylene cork container, and it won't uh it you can't bend bend it still, it's still holding its its structure. So yeah, so I'm like, man, yeah, yeah, that's okay, right? Turns out the cork container is made of polypropylene, but the lid is made, and I just noticed this today when I was looking at the lids, the lid is made of low uh low density polyethylene. Polyethylene, lower melting temperature. Weird.
+
+[5:09] Why wouldn't they make it all the same? I don't know. It's weird, right? Yeah, that's weird. Although you know what it's kind of good, maybe they want the lid to blow up before the cork container deforms.
+
+[5:18] I don't know. Honestly, I don't know. But the the lid on it was uh polyethylene, and so that would explain why it deforms and blows off the top of the thing before anything happens to the uh to the container. So there you have that, and I literally discovered that this morning. So there you have it.
+
+[5:35] There you have it. Um, uh on to the question. Oh, call in your questions to 7184972128. That's 7184972128. And by the way, Jack, you know, I was thinking about this.
+
+[5:46] I know you think I should stick like me a basically only technical, but you know, I know how to cook other things besides low temperature and like crazy stuff. You know, if you have any questions on things like, you know, I make a mean pancake. Yeah, mean pancakes. I mean I make good pancakes. I can fry any damn thing.
+
+[6:01] Anything. I'll put the word out there. Yeah, I mean, like, so you don't, you know, you don't feel obliged to like you know, wait until you have like the one technical question a year that you have. If you have any question based on uh cooking, uh, you know, and if I don't know, we'll have a fun discussion about it, right? I mean, if you happen to stump me off something that I have no idea, then what the hell?
+
+[6:20] Fine. That's fun too, right? So call in your questions to 7184972128. That's 7184972128. I have a really quick question.
+
+[6:26] What's that? What did you think of the uh Blanca tasting menu? Uh Carlo. Well, am I allowed to talk about it now? Oh, maybe not.
+
+[6:34] I don't know. I was there on Saturday. Yeah, all right. So listen, maybe put a call in. Yeah.
+
+[6:39] Put a call in, find out if I'm allowed to talk about it or not. Okay. And then if if I'm allowed to talk about it, then I'll talk about it. Okay. All right.
+
+[6:46] I went to the WD 50 uh kind of uh new menu tasting. Oh, yeah. Yeah, it's great. I bet. Yeah, all this stuff was delicious.
+
+[6:52] It was delicious. Um the interesting thing about it is is it the menus in entirely new, but for those of you uh who have never been before or wondering what it's like, it's still very clearly WD50 food. Like you would not walk in there and think that I'm in a different restaurant. You know what I mean? It's still very clearly what you expect from WD50, just entirely new.
+
+[7:13] Yeah. Nastasha's back. Were we able to save most of the stuff? Yeah. Yeah?
+
+[7:18] Is my bag totally ruined? Uh we're gonna have to clean it after. Awesome. Nothing I love. You know what?
+
+[7:23] I made here's what I hate. I made the bag myself. Like I bought the fabric, super high, you know, high end fabric. I sewed it myself. Everything designed, cut, sewed, and now it's full of simple syrup, which is like my worst nightmare on earth.
+
+[7:36] It's the equivalent of Nastasha being coated in leaves with uh leaf skin disease on them or something like that, which is kind of that's your worst nightmare, right? To be thrown into a bed of leaves with uh with those weird like fungal growths coming out of them. Yes. Yeah, it's her worst nightmare. Okay.
+
+[7:51] Uh on to a real we actually have interesting, like uh interesting synergy of questions today. Hello, Dave and the cooking issues crew. This is Darren from Sous vide Dash, and now the polyzyne sous vide toolkit, which we'll talk about later. Here's a question on which is a program for your iPad that allows you to uh determine cooking times for uh sous vide work and stuff like that, right? We'll talk about it later.
+
+[8:12] Uh uh with a completely different topic, the culinary application of static mixtures. I wonder if you have ever had any experience with static mixers. Uh I have. By the way, before we get on to it, so what a static mixer is uh a static mixer is basically a tube. And then inside of the tube are uh kind of imagine like uh like it's hard to explain on the radio.
+
+[8:33] Like they're like twisted plates that go crisscross to each other that basically when you're pumping uh a liquid through the tube, the twists twist it and mix it, and then it hits another tube in a different direction and it twists it and mix it in the other direction, kind of like folding again and again and again and again, but it's going through a tube, so there's no moving parts, right? So the the basic benefit of a static mixer are that you get very, very even mixing, right? Uh you can, you know, get extremely thorough mixing if you choose the right thing. And there are zero moving parts, and you don't incorporate air into the mixture when you're when you're pumping it in, right? So these are the main, these are the main kinds of uh advantages.
+
+[9:13] I mean, the disadvantage is you have to pipe everything through a little tube, right? I mean, that's the that's the that's the only downside, really. Okay. Uh I wonder if you ever had any experience with static mixers. I've read about them being used in the production of mayonnaise and ketchup at an industrial scale.
+
+[9:26] I've also seen very small ones that are used to attach to a double uh plunger dispenser for mixing epoxy. That got me thinking, could I adapt this technique using a small manual dispenser and a static mixer to create culinary emulsions? I did a little digging around and found a reference indicating that for stable mayonnaise, the oil droplet size should be between two and eight micrometers, aka small. Small. Okay.
+
+[9:48] Uh and but that's like super stable, like shelf stable forever. That's like, you know, helmins. Anyway, uh I also found a paper indicating that small static mixers tend to produce droplets two orders of magnitude larger than that, which was a little discouraging. So my question is do you have any experience trying to emulsify with a small static mixer? Uh there are all kinds of culinary emulsions that would be cool to make a la minute or even table side with a quick pull of a trigger.
+
+[10:11] I wonder how much uh the larger droplet size will affect texture and stability for something like mayonnaise and other interesting emulsions. I'm inclined to purchase some samples and do some experiments, but I figured if anyone has done it so far, it would be you. Any experience, suggestions, tips, tricks, or feedback? Thanks, Dee. Okay.
+
+[10:26] Um, and they gave a shout out because he was with uh P Press. That's Philip Preston, for those of you not in the know from PolyScience. He was hanging out with Philip Preston and our boy Hervé Molivare, we're gonna see today from the French Culinary Institute. Chef Hervé, the the now Muay Thai judo skiing race car driving lunatic French chef over at the French Culinary Institute. Anywho, here are my theories on static mixing.
+
+[10:48] Uh the my main experience with static mixing has not been, in fact, all of my experience with static mixing has not been in the culinary field, but has in fact been mixing epoxies and urethanes. Uh that said, they are freaking amazing at that. Uh, you know, I was like, you know, how good and I buy the you know the the in real ones, you know, they're the ones that I buy are like um oh I don't know, about ten to twelve inches long, and they're meant to dispense uh uh you know between two and four hundred milliliters of a urethane casting resin. And for those of you that ever mixed uh, you know, casting resins, you know that air bubbles are a nightmare and you have to vacuum this stuff out uh to get rid of the air bubbles, and it becomes very problematic if you want a nice bubble-free casting. Uh with these things, and I really had my doubts, it's just freaking genius.
+
+[11:35] It's just it's it's and also when you're mixing, you have to sit there and you wonder whether you're mixing all around and stuff like this. And it's just awesome. You know, just no air, no nothing, perfect. Um okay, one second, I'll finish on this. So, like the thing with the static mixer, okay, but listen.
+
+[11:50] Oh, wait, what wait, hold on a moment. Howdy? Uh, you call I'll take the caller and then I'll go back to static mixing. Caller, you're on the air. Hello.
+
+[11:57] I think you get the hole. Hello? Hi, how you doing? Oh, I'm on I'm on Skype, so it might be a little crappy. Nice, I like crappy.
+
+[12:06] Okay, uh, I have a question about uh rice-based Mexican Orchata. Oh, okay. Nice. Uh I I I thought I was gonna email it, sorry. I wrote it down.
+
+[12:16] I'm gonna be kind of regurgitated. Uh so most green gill recipes have you blend uh uncooked rice with water and let it eat like overnight or something. Right. But it it just doesn't taste very ricey. Uh uh the flip side, I've read some recipes where they have you cook the rice to some extent, not like all the way, like the inside will still be kind of hard and a little bit crunchy, and you blend this and and strain that.
+
+[12:45] But when you do that, it's super super viscous and and not really drinkably thin. But it it tastes delicious and ricey like rice pudding. So I guess what I want is like a a drinkably thin rice pudding. But are are are there's a ricey taste and viscosity in extric inextricably linked, or is there some way to separate them? Hmm.
+
+[13:07] And the the what what what pre what like what things do you do prior to the uh to soaking it with the with the with the uncooked one? Uh I guess I'll usually I I guess I'll usually rinse it. But you don't grind it. Uh I I grind it in the water in a blender. Right.
+
+[13:28] Let me think. This is an uh it's an interesting, it's a good one. I haven't thought about this. I have thought recently about another rice problem, but I'm thinking about this particular rice problem. I mean, it's the thing with viscosity, right, is you're getting starch bleeding into the uh into the water, and then uh that when you're cooking it, what a cooked starch bleeding is a thickener.
+
+[13:48] Do you know what I mean? And so it's gonna thicken it. You could probably thin that starch with I mean the high tech version of me says I will just add a uh an enzyme to break down the starch and I'll thin that sucker down right away. It'll also make it sweeter. Um, but uh but there's gotta be a real solution, right?
+
+[14:07] When I say real, I mean traditional solution. I mean, I have a bunch of enzymes literally that I could drop in there and thin it out in like in no time flat, you know. Uh and then it would keep that that ricey flavor. Have you had ones in Latin America made with raw rice that have enough of a ricey taste for you? Uh I I haven't actually been to Latin America.
+
+[14:28] I I moved to Los Angeles uh uh two years ago for grad school, and I've had some pretty good ones there, but they're made with they're made with uncooked? I'm I'm not sure what the the ones I'm I I've had have been made with. I have a feeling a lot of them are made with mixes. Yeah. Oh, mixes, right.
+
+[14:48] You could also, yeah, you could use rice flour too. Do you know what I mean? Uh I thought about that, but I haven't tried it yet. Yeah. Or pre-grind the rice and put it in.
+
+[14:57] I mean, I've I've been working a lot now. Um, so uh how sweet are these things? When you buy the mix, do they add a lot of sugar? Is there how sweet is it? They they tend to be they tend to be quite sweet, I would say.
+
+[15:10] Yeah. Well, there's a a question later on in the show get to uh that has to do with stuff you should bring back from China. And Harold McGee just got back uh from China, and uh one of the things that he brought back, not a physical thing, but an idea, is these uh these combination kind of yeast rice, uh these yeast uh slash mold uh balls. And what's cool about them is that uh the mold in them actually sacrifies the rice, i.e. takes the rice starch and converts it to sugar to make it sweet, and then yeast will start fermentation and turn that uh turn that sugar into alcohol.
+
+[15:47] But if you if you only do it for a couple of days, right, the mold basically makes what it's it's like a delicious, sweet uh rice drink that is super ricey and super awesome. It's almost like an unfermented rice beer, like a wart. Now I'm wondering whether or not traditionally uh and but that's done with cooked, but it's still thin, but it's done with cooked rice. I wonder whether you could do something like that uh if there's some sort of something it's actually sacrifying the starch or breaking it apart. I just don't know.
+
+[16:15] I have to think about it. But you might want to look into those things. You could buy them at any store in like any Chinatown near in a big city and they're called yeast balls. And when you add those to cooked rice, it takes a couple of days but like all of a sudden the rice breaks and you have a thin clear liquid that's delicious. Not orchata so like I'm it's not it's off the s off the subject but it's another oh no that's that sounds really cool.
+
+[16:39] I'm happy to have heard about that as well. Yeah so I mean go check that out and like look into you know or the familiar Japanese version uh you know you take the Koji starter that they have and you add it to rice it'll sacrifice and if you don't let it go I've never tested the Japanese version. I've only tested the the Chinese one and and it's made with a different mold. I can tell you from firsthand experience with the Chinese one it's really freaking delicious and ricey. And so you know you the you might want to play around play around with that one.
+
+[17:09] You know you store it you know at roughly like ninety five in like a bread proof or in your oven with just a pile it on if you have that. I used my dehydrator when I did the test but it's really good stuff. Uh but I'm I'm interested in trying to think about your problem but I'm gonna have to I'm gonna have to think about it kind of in more detail. Hopefully someone out there has had some experience with this and they can write us an email answer so that next week I can come back with someone who's had some practical experience with this. You know what I mean?
+
+[17:33] Yeah, yeah. That would be great. Alright cool. Thank you very, very much. One one one one yes or no questions before you go.
+
+[17:42] I'm in I'm in Tokyo for uh for two months, and I know you're coming here somewhat imminently. Is the event you're doing here something open to the public? Nastasha, is it? No. Really?
+
+[17:54] Oh. Uh that's too bad. All right. That's too bad. But thank you very much anyway.
+
+[17:59] All right, thank you so much. Bye. Okay, back to static mixers, my favorite static mixers. So uh on the static mixer, I forget exactly where I left off, but they like uh when you're mixing uh plastic with it, it's amazing how thorough the mix is. So one of the problems when you're doing any sort of mixture uh is the fact that if you're using a blender or a hand blender specifically, is that there's pockets of it that aren't blended the same amount as everything else, and you don't have thorough blending all the way through.
+
+[18:25] It's just you know the nature of the beast. Now, that's not so much of a problem if you have something big like a Vitaprep, but there you go. So uh a static mixer would be good in an application where what you want is very, very even mixing uh in a very short amount of time. You don't want the things to stay together very long, and you don't want to have to mix a large amount of product, right? The only parts that get mixed are the parts that's going through the little bit of tube.
+
+[18:47] So if you had two things that couldn't come together until the last minute and you didn't want to waste them all by blending, and you didn't want to waste enough each time by having to have enough to blend, static mixer would be fantastic. From an emulsion standpoint, the problem is that uh it's not that high shear a uh a thing. So emulsions are made in a number of ways, but basically, for any given system, the s the the larger the amount of energy you put into shearing to shearing the the the thing together, the smaller the droplet size. And static mixers, to the best of my knowledge, just aren't that good at high shear. So it's gonna be difficult to get super small emulsion size, uh well, droplet size in them, unless you hit it with a lot of emulsifiers.
+
+[19:31] In which case, what you're doing is reducing the amount of energy it takes to create an emulsion. So if you have something that wants to emulsify fairly easily, right, uh, and something that you needed to have it made all of minute, like for instance, I don't know, I couldn't think of one off the top of my head, but something that's fairly um fairly fragile, right? That doesn't want to stay together a long time, or uh or something you don't want to mix because it might oxidize if you put it in a blender, then a static mixer might work uh quite well with you. But I don't think it's gonna get down to super super small uh particle size. I just don't think that's what it's what it's good at.
+
+[20:01] Anyways, let's take a break and uh we'll come back with more cooking issues. Straight up, honey, really I'm asking. Most of these niggas think they be macin, but they be acting. Who they attracting with that line? What's your name?
+
+[20:16] What's your sign? Soon as he buy that wine, I just creep up from behind. And ask you what your interests are. Who you be with, things that make you smile, what numbers to dial? You're gonna be here for a while, I'm gonna call my crew.
+
+[20:27] You go call your crew. We can rendezvous at the bar around two. Plans to leave, though the keys, the little Cs, pull the truck up front and roll up the next book. So we can see on the way to the telly, go fill my belly. A T-bone steak, cheese, eggs, and we'll just grade.
+
+[20:42] Call the thing for a few. Cause in our few, we gon' do what we came to do. Ain't that right, boom? Forget the telly, we just go to the crib and watch a movie in the jackousy smoke L's while you're doing it. White Oak Pastures is a hundred and forty-six-year-old multi-generational family farm that works in cooperation with nature to produce artisans, meat that is safe, healthy, nutritious, and good to eat.
+
+[21:09] Well, I tell that fail, we ensure that our production practices are economically practical, ecologically sustainable, and that the animals are always humanely treated. We never falter in our determination to conduct our business in an honorable manner. For more information, visit Whiteoak Pastures.com. Wow. From the sound of him, it sounds like he really loves having Biggie Smalls be the background music for his uh Yeah, not so sure about that.
+
+[21:40] I had to fit the Welches in there though. Oh, you had to get the Welch's grapevine. I totally, totally agree. Totally agree. Okay.
+
+[21:46] Uh by the way, Nastasha, I was walking here like uh in the pouring rain, right? And uh with unknown stuff stuff leaking all over the inside of my bag, and the guy a guy walks past me in the baseball hat practicing his rap on the freaking sidewalk. Like, what the hell is that? Like, what the hell's going on? Listen, if you live in New York, it's like a long-standing rule.
+
+[22:05] If you want to learn bagpipes, right, you have to literally, no matter how crappy you are, you have to go out into a park or a subway station and just play the bagpipes. Because that's that's all you have open to you. You cannot play bagpipes in your house. It's just not reasonable. You know what I mean?
+
+[22:19] Uh and so that's why, you know, you can hear some crappy bagpipes now and again in a park because what else are you gonna do? There's no no choice, right? No choice, no problem. That's uh Karen Smith says. But uh rap you can kind of do in your house.
+
+[22:31] So if you suck, why are you walking around the street like with your crappy rap? You know what I mean? What does he expect? I'm gonna I'm gonna like walk by him and I'm some sort of like produce some rap producer. He's gonna walk next to a rap producer being like, Wow, that's the that's the exact pseudo-tough male voice that I've been looking for for years.
+
+[22:46] You know what I mean? Weak. I don't know. His hat was nice though. He had a nice baseball hat.
+
+[22:50] Okay, anyway. Uh hopefully, hopefully, well, he there's no way, but imagine if he was a listener and he came and he beat the crap out of me the next time I walked past him on the avenue on the way to River's. I love your rapper. I love you. I love it.
+
+[22:59] I was just kidding. Okay. Uh hi, Dave, Nastasha, and Jack. I'm running from the UK, a longtime listener, but it's been a while since I wrote in. I have a question about ultrasonic homogenizers.
+
+[23:08] More on the multiplication today. It's a really interesting uh week. Uh I'm another vegetarian chef like uh like Michael Nakin, uh we're who of whom we're a fan, and greatly looking forward to his book being available in the UK. I'm currently working on this and work on that, Michael. Uh I'm currently working on my own modern vegetarian book, which should be out this summer.
+
+[23:23] But I don't really want to weigh in on the whole recent vegetarian vegan debate beyond saying I happen to be a lacto ova vegetarian, but see myself as a chef first and foremost. Uh that define me defines me much more than my choice not to eat meat. And I work within that niche or constraint, strive to be my best create uh best creative and learn like all passionate young chefs. Sounds good to me. I recently got a hold of a poly science sonic prep, uh, for which I just have a couple of weeks on loan.
+
+[23:46] It's an amazing piece of equipment. Emulsions in an instant with no added emulsifier, uh infusions, flavor extractions, all fantastic. It's a pretty awe-inspiring bit of kit. Uh kit, by the way, is like, you know, cool stuff for those of you who've never been to the UK. However, I've noticed uh using it to infuse flavors into oil.
+
+[24:01] I did this with a few herbs and other things, but each time into olive oil, that whilst I would get an herb flavor coming through great and very quickly, the infused oil in some cases took on a mild metallic, almost burnt flavor. I have a decent understanding of the cavitation process by which the sonic prep works, and I can't see why this would cause such an effect. And none of the tests I've done so far that I run the machine long enough for the oil to become heated above just being mildly warm. Uh just running around three minutes each time and not on full power, or even at a constant cycle for all of them. Also, I didn't notice this problem when infusing alcohol or working with a water base.
+
+[24:30] Any ideas of what could be causing this effect or how to counteract, avoid it. Uh I hope I might overcome it with some informed trial and error, and there's tons of other stuff I want to try while I have it. But since it's on loan, any advice would be great. And if there's anything else you suggest, I should try it with too. That would be great.
+
+[24:43] All the best, Eddie Shepard. And he said cheers because he's from England. Yeah. Okay. So here's the dealy.
+
+[24:44] I think your main problem is olive oil. Have you tried it with another oil? Olive oil classically. Like so, listen, when you're making a mayonnaise, we all know that if you make a mayonnaise with uh certain kinds of olive oil, all of a sudden it can go bitter and messed up, right? Same way if you put olive oil in a blender and you over blend olive oil in a blender, like sometimes you're okay and sometimes it's messed up.
+
+[25:10] Now, the cafe and I forget what it is. I had a you know a long discussion with Harold McGee about you know what this actually might uh what might be causing this, and and uh I don't remember whether he was sure or not, but it's just a kind of a well-known fact that this can happen with olive oil. So first thing I would do is don't do it with olive oil, do it something else. Uh something that's more neutral or something that doesn't have that kind of ability to go uh bitter uh on you. Uh the other thing I've noticed is that you know, uh first of all, for those of you don't know, an ultrasonic homogenizer is basically an ultrasonic transducer, but on roids that can put out a lot of power and uh it vibrates ultrasonically, meaning faster than you can hear it.
+
+[25:47] Ha ha ha, we'll talk about that in a second. But uh the violent uh going back and forth actually causes uh little like cavitation, little vacuum bubbles to form that then collapse with a lot of force and do things like rupture cells, make very fine emulsions, etc. etc. Um I've had one for like I don't know, seven years, something like that, that was given to me on loan, but I never gave it back from Branson's ultrasonic, and it's the same style that everyone's using nowadays. It's 400 watts, which is you know, pretty baller.
+
+[26:18] Um I never had the enclosure, and I've never done too much experimentation with it because it makes people run from the room screaming. You know what I mean? Like Nastash, you've had you've been in the room when it comes on, right? I think so. Yeah, I mean it like the the the I don't know, it's like yes, it's theoretically ultrasonic, but l people like put their hands to their ears and run around.
+
+[26:37] The enclosure apparently does a lot to stop that. But one of the first things that I noticed when I was using it is that you could do this thing uh that you know Nathan Miraville and Chris Young and Maxime have kind of popularized is the idea of kind of created milks or constructed milks where you have a very you have an emulsion with a very low uh oil amount in it and you you know similar to milk on the order of like four or five percent fat and you emulsify that in and it and it gets really good uh results. Uh and it's it's fantastic at that. My issue with it I haven't really experimented enough with it to say whether what the awesome results with it are because the results that I were able to get, I wasn't able to uh it it wasn't the exclusive way I could get them. So it's like the milks, it's very, very good at without adding the emulsifiers.
+
+[27:23] But on the other hand, when I had to go say to someone, hey look, you're a chef, and uh would you would I rather have you spend four thousand dollars? I don't know what it costs now, but that's what it costs at the time. Would I rather have you spend four thousand dollars on this piece of ultrasonic uh homogenization stuff, or would I say spend four dollars on an emulsifier and make it in the vita prep that you already have? So and that basic fundamental thing that I haven't found anything that I can't do another way with it yet, plus the fact that running it, the one I have is a hardship on everyone around me, and there's no way I could do it during service, has um has kind of stopped me from investigating it to the level that uh I probably should. But I know that I investigated using it with avocados to try and get avocado oil when I was doing avocado in a centrifuge, and it ruined the flavor of the avocado, but I think that's because of oxidation uh of the actual avocado.
+
+[28:18] You know what I mean? And then we tried ascorbic acid, but it didn't didn't really help. So I think everything depends on the actual oil that you're using. I don't really have a lot of experience using it for infusions, although I'm sure it's uh great the same way that um you know, any any sort of like something that helps disrupt things at a small level is good at getting two things to go together. I will say this ultrasonic homogenization uh requires uh to to be really good, requires a certain amount of pre-emulsification, right?
+
+[28:44] So before you hit it with the ultrasonic homogenizer, put it in a blender and blend it up. Ultras ultrasonics aren't good at taking apart large particles like pieces of like peeps pieces of pepper grinds and stuff like this. It's just good at taking something that's already started forming and making it much, much, much finer. So for the best results, blend first and then hit it with the ultrasonic homogenizer to really do it well. Also, be careful with it because uh the demo I used to run with it about how dangerous it can be, just stick it into a into a bar towel on a table and light the bar towel on fire from the power of the uh ultrasonic homogenizer.
+
+[29:16] Anyways, uh hope that's helpful. Uh okay. Hello, my name is Juventino Magana, living in Las Vegas. My wife is in China and coming home in a week. Uh wanted for her to bring me something that I can't find here and need help on telling what to bring.
+
+[29:29] Uh please help. I'm a chef by the way. Send for my iPad. Wow, it's a hard question. I wish I'd asked McGee stuff that he smuggled back.
+
+[29:35] I no longer kind of advocate smuggling stuff back that you can't get in the US, but I mean, um I mean I would try to see if you can get some of the really interesting uh rice wines from China uh over here because McGee was saying he had some amazing ones over there that don't taste like any ones that he's had here. Uh when I when my wife was in China years ago, I had her smuggle me back uh Chinese hams, like amazing Chinese hams uh that were unlike any um like ones that tasted like blue cheese. It was made it was amazing. But I mean I can't really I can't really recommend to you that you smuggle back something that you know you could get in uh in big trouble for. Um shoot.
+
+[30:15] I don't know. I have to think about that. Let me think see if I have to come up with anything by the end of the show. Uh uh, I'll put it in. But that's it's an excellent question.
+
+[30:21] We you know what? Someone should start a website called crap I should try to bring back. And then just like with a with like a with a country list, and like here's stuff that doesn't get sent out, like you know, when you go to Turkey, crap I should bring back celep, you know what I mean? And like and then like whether or not you're actually smuggling and you get thrown in prison, or whether or not US customs would would stop you, you know what I mean? Like Hamony Barico or something like that.
+
+[30:43] So like a list kind of of of how illicit it is, or whether it's just not imported and like why it's awesome, country to country for travelers, like cooking travelers, right? I mean, we won't do it, but that would be a good site, right? I mean, I would use it, I won't make it. Someone make that website and then get back to us so we can we can plug it. Okay.
+
+[31:01] Uh hi Nastasha and Dave and Jack. I hope you guys are rocking. Been cooking a lot and running into a lot of observations. Uh anyway, bone marrow. If I take it out of the out of the bone and soak it, it is white as a pearl within two days.
+
+[31:12] Uh, I leave it in the bone, I soak it for a week, changing water regularly, and there's still so much blood in there. What the heck? Alright, I just to freak Nastasha out. I printed a picture of like a ball of bone marrow, and I'm showing it to her right now, and she's making her uh her putrid face because uh it's it's a really it doesn't look like bone marrow like we cook. It's like it's like really.
+
+[31:32] Yeah, even Jack is even Jacking's Jack's giving his like wow face. Uh but I think what's happening is is that if you leave it in the bone, remember the outside of the bone is a lot less porous, it's a lot denser than the inside of the bone, which is where a lot of the hollow stuff is. And um bone marrow, uh, you know, I I didn't have time to look at like an electron uh microscopy of it. But my feeling is is that uh most of the chunks of bone marrow are longer than they are bigger round, and that um if it takes two days to soak in uh you know, soak from the out from like the cylinder side of it out, right? Then it's gonna take then in those same two days or three days, whatever, it's only gonna soak that far into the ends.
+
+[32:11] So unless you're cutting the pieces basically as the of bone, basically as thin as uh the diameter of the cylinder of marrow that you're working with, that it's not going to uh soak out at a at a very quick rate at all. Not to mention which there's more red crap in the bone besides the marrow that still has to bleed out as well. So there's more product in there, and you're stopping uh the slowing rather drastically the rate of diffusion of that stuff out. So I'm pretty sure that's just what's going on, right? That's my guess.
+
+[32:42] Uh but I'm willing to have someone call and say, actually, you're an idiot, and here's this phenomena that's actually causing it. But I'm pretty sure that's what's going on. Also, if you're familiar with Francisco Magoya's post on the Alicia pastry cream, then do you know what kind of ratio of starch to use? I tried this technique and cannot uh and could really feel the starch on my teeth, uh, big frustration. So, what you're talking about is this post where to make uh pastry cream, instead of like the the normal uh well I looked at the post, so straight from the post uh that you know referring to uh regular recipe for pastry cream.
+
+[33:14] Place ninety-five percent of the milk in a saucep with half the sugar in another bowl, mix the remaining milk with the cornstarch, stir it well, add the egg yolks and the remaining sugar, stir until homogenous, and it must be lump free. Bring the liquid to a boil, temper the egg yolk uh slurry, and then return it to the heat and bring to the first boil while stirring constantly. So basically, for those of you who don't know, pastry cream, basically like an englaze mix, like a you know a custard with starch in it. The starch stabilize it, you go to a higher mix. So that's the that's the classic way.
+
+[33:37] Put your ingredients together with the egg yolk, the slurry, temper it so it doesn't curdle instantly, pour it into the hot mixture, stir constantly, bring it up to the boil. The starch is actually protecting it uh when you're boiling, right? So Wiley makes his uh Hollandaise with regular egg yolks, and he just dumps so much starch into them that uh they won't curdle even when they're fried. So uh the starch really is what's protecting you protecting you there. So the Alicia procedure is a lot easier because what they do is is you just mix uh the sugar uh with the milk uh and then you boil it, and then you have the co cornstarch and the uh egg yolk, and you mix those, and when the water brings to a boil, you just uh like kind of whisk the other stuff in uh and then it just kind of sets.
+
+[34:22] And the problem is, I I think maybe the problem you're having is is that uh the deal is if you don't make the right amount of that, what you're using is the residual heat from the milk to both uh cook the egg yolk, cook the egg yolk out without curdling it, and that's what the extra the starch is there to prevent the egg yolk from curdling and cooking. And B, you have to functionalize the starch. So uh the starch has to hydrate, swell, and and cook before the t uh temperature of of your product drops too low. So my guess is perhaps you are um perhaps what's going on is you're doing too small a batch compared to what he says. He says he makes at least uh you know more than a liter.
+
+[35:04] Uh perhaps your batch size is too small and it gets too cold uh too quickly, and the starch doesn't cook out, and so you're gonna have a raw grainy starch taste. I mean, that's that's a guess, right? Um it should be possible, by the way, to just use an instantized agglomerized starch, for instance, uh ultra spurse, uh, you know, one of the ultra spurse lines from National Starch. And then you really don't have to worry at all. As long as it's hot enough to pasteurize out the egg yolk and thicken it a little bit, then you don't have to worry about it uh doing the starch in time.
+
+[35:33] So maybe try try that. Yeah? Yeah. Yeah. But if anyone has any questions, uh let them uh write in and again tell me that I'm an idiot.
+
+[35:41] Uh okay. So uh that was from uh Philippe Lamont. P Press, our good friend Philip Preston from Polyscience writes in uh and he says it's been a while since we've connected. I hope this email finds you well. It does.
+
+[35:52] Uh this week, Philip has launched an iPad iPhone Sous vide application that uh he's very excited about. Uh and he says, we believe this application will be of tremendous help to chefs in determining the correct cooking time for various thicknesses of protein. Based on research done by Nathan, that's Nathan Miravold, Chris Young, uh, who's been on the show, uh, Doug Baldwin and others, uh, we can calculate the thermal conductivity of various proteins in various shapes and sizes. Uh to determine the accurate cooking time, he uses the thermal uh diffus uh diffusivity of food, thermal conductivity of the food, the shape coefficient, uh, which basically it's like a fudge factor. They're like, you know, it's like, I don't know, is it a certain sphere?
+
+[36:28] Is it a cylinder, something in between? Eh, anyway. Uh uh, etc. etc. And they use the differential equations and they actually calculate it.
+
+[36:35] Once you've entered these uh pieces of data, they calculate the time to cook pasteurized to the surface or pasteurized to the core and show the log reduction of pathogens. We've collaborated with uh the guys from Sous vide Dash, which I know you've mentioned on your cooking issues radio show, and they had a question earlier in the thing. I think you'll see the improvements for user friendliness and streamlining that we did, uh, and you can download it on the thing. I checked it out. Uh it's true.
+
+[36:55] It uh the interesting thing is it's it's clearly derived from the Sous Vash guys that they they workflow, but it adds things like it actually shows you the curves of how the bacteria are being killed, and it saves your it's it's it's very user-friendly actually. It's really uh it's good. I don't know how much it costs. Uh do you not we'll figure out how much it costs? I don't know how much it costs.
+
+[37:15] But uh it uh it seems to work well. Here's my here's my uh uh issue with with it. First of all, it has something like called an an ice an ice bath thing. Uh and it's basically the only thing they allow you to do is to figure out your chilling time. If you're a chef and you're worried about how long is it gonna take to chill my item, um, you know, the the problem with it is is that when we advocate it, Bruno Gusseau from Cuisine Solutions advocates uh and we now advocate a two-step, two or three-step chilling process.
+
+[37:41] When you take something out of low temperature, the idea is you don't want to chill the food right away. If you chill it right away, you prevent the proteins from when they're still uh have the ability to, when they're warm, from reabsorbing juices that have been expelled out during the cooking process. And so Bruno Gusot and we recommend a uh a process where you take it out of the out of the water bath cooking bath and you leave it on the counter for 10 to 15 minutes, depending on thickness, uh, and then put it into tap water to slowly cool it down for 10 to 15 minutes, and then an ice bath until it's cool. So it'll be nice if you have like a multiple regime chilling thing in there for chefs if they really want to figure out uh how fast they're getting the core temperature down with their chilling regime. Now, uh the other thing, and by the way, if you want to chill something quickly in an ice bath, and this is something I don't think people talk about, a really good way to chill quickly in an ice bath, small amounts, is to keep your immersion circulator uh in an ice bath.
+
+[38:33] Set the temperature below zero Celsius, below 32 Fahrenheit, and use it to circulate your ice bath because uh you're going to tremendously increase your cooling rate by circulating your ice bath. And this is something I think no one ever talks about. I've never seen anyone write about it. But it's another way to use the circulation in your circulator to help you to chill things very much, much, much more rapidly because there's very little movement inside an ice bath. And if you ever put your hand into an ice bath with a lot of product in it, you'll notice that there's a big warm spots right next to where the uh where the product is.
+
+[39:03] It can it can make a big big difference. The other thing I'd really love to see in an application like this that they don't have is uh how to apply it to the finishing of uh of your of your meat products. So, for instance, I have uh when when I'm finishing a product, you like I've I'll fry it or I'll put it on a grill or I'll put it in a pan for a couple of minutes, and you get a big temperature spike in the center out of that. And so, what you have to do before you finish it, if you don't want to overcook your meat, is you have to chill it a bit before you uh do a cook off. Conversely, I might want to know how long it's gonna take me to fry through a piece of chicken in a deep fryer without using low temperature at all.
+
+[39:42] And the same equations that they're using for low temperature cooking are applicable to these higher temperature cooking techniques. So, what I would like to see is it also have something in there be like, okay, I'm gonna deep fry uh a piece of chicken. How long is it gonna take to get my core temperature up? Or uh I'm going to uh put on a grill or in a deep fryer uh the steak that I just finished in sous vide. How much of a rise am I gonna get in the core?
+
+[40:05] Because this is a place that a lot of people ruin their products, and you've already done the math right to get the answer for what's going to happen to the temperature on the inside. So just add those, uh add those separate things, and uh I think you'd have a super duper winner. Um Jack, do I have time for one more or no? Yeah. Alright, cool.
+
+[40:23] Uh that was from our good friend Philip Preston, Apoly Science. Hello, Dave and Nastasha. I have a question about carbonation. This is from Jonathan Hunter. I know you said last week that it's difficult to do carbonation from a keg, but I'm wondering if it is all possible.
+
+[40:35] We are putting new beer lines in our space, and I have four lines open. I was thinking about doing two lines for a spritzer-like beverage, a French 75 or an Americano, and one line for an NA and one line for carbonated water. We have a glycol system and we're running the lines about 20 feet. We can keep the cooler about 34 degrees during service. I was wondering if there's just no way to make this work or if we could piece something together that would be possible.
+
+[40:56] Maybe if we carbonated the corny kegs ahead of time at 23 degrees and then let them sit with a tank connected before we put them on the lines, it might work. Any help with this would be great. The question I have is if there be any way to attach a valve from a CO2 tank. Another question is whether or there's a way to attach a CO2 tank directly to an ISI shaker. This would save us some money over buying cartridges.
+
+[41:14] Thanks so much. The show is really helpful. Jonathan Hunter. Okay, I'm going to take them in reverse real quick. You can absolutely connect a CO2 tank to uh an ISI.
+
+[41:23] I've done it before. All you have to do is uh get someone to machine the threads out uh to um to screw onto where you put the cartridge, right? And then go directly to a tank. I've done it before. Uh it's not that difficult, but you do need some machining skills.
+
+[41:40] Alternately, you could probably uh you could probably figure out a way to get a rig it by like molding with plastic or epoxy, but I don't know whether or not it's gonna hold uh gas and then it's gonna be more more permanent, right? Uh but eminently, eminently doable. Uh I'm sure someone out there has a DIY do it. Someone sells something to do that already, but they charge a preposterous amount of money and they expect you to buy nitrous tanks from them as well. Um ridiculous amount of money.
+
+[42:05] The other thing you could do is you could theoretically go through the dispense nozzle on it with CO2 if you wanted to do that, and that might be an easier thing for you to machine or to jerry rig, for instance. You could just screw you could just jam a piece of tube over the uh over the dispensing nozzle, right, and then take a hose clamp and tighten it down until it fits, and it might work. No guarantees on that, Nastasha, right? No guarantee. So if the thing sprays off and starts, you know, like flying around the room like a like a like a snake, then you know, don't blame me.
+
+[42:34] Uh but the good thing about that then is you could just put the you could just squeeze it and put the um the you know, squeeze it and let the gas in. The bad thing is you'd have to unscrew that that connector to vent it, unless you put like a uh a ball valve on the hose that let you vent and put change between doing gas and not. But it's it's all eminently doable, even with no machining uh technology, you could do it. Okay. Uh regarding the keg, uh look, 34 is kind of, I mean, that you're gonna need to go with a low alcohol drink.
+
+[43:05] Uh you're also gonna need because the lower the alcohol, the less foaming you're gonna have, and also the warmer it can be without getting excessive foam out, and the better carbonation you can get at those lower levels, right? So typically when we have our carbonated drinks, we're running them at uh at like 23, uh, which is where you say carbonating it at that and then letting it come up to temperature is not gonna reduce your foaming problems. That's the that's the issue on it. Now, plenty of people serve carbonated drinks out of kegs. The question is is what level of carbonation are you gonna get?
+
+[43:32] The you know if you the best result I've seen out of kegs are when you get a cold plate and you run the drink, and a cold plate sits in the bottom of an ice well, and you run the drink through two segments, two whole channels of a cold plate. So in into the cold plate, and when instead of going out of the cold plate to a gun, back into a cold plate, and then back out again, and using uh uh there's a valve called um a Becker valve, scan squeeze valve that you can get from a place called Mark Powers in Guntersville, Alabama. And it's a specially made valve for carbonated things, and it's about an order of magnitude better than uh a gun. And because it's got a big compensator in the back of it that really allows you to dispense uh between a high pressure and a low pressure without losing a lot of bubbles, and it's just the only way to do it. That's the way I do all my carbonated beverages uh and have since you know since I don't know, for like ten, ten, twelve, twelve years.
+
+[44:24] That's what I've been doing using that kind of a valve system on carbonated beverages, uh you know, at home just with seltzer. So you can do that, but you you need to make sure that the carbonation level is it's not going to be as high as it would be if you could keep the temperature lower. It's possible to salt out an ice bath and have the temperature go lower and or use glycol and get it lower even like you like you say, you can't get it lower than, but then you have to worry about freezing the stuff out inside of the coal plate, which can be a little bit of a hassle. So uh the long story is yes, it's possible. The short story is and the short story is that it whether or not it's feasible depends on what level of carbonation you want and how much you're willing to tolerate foaming.
+
+[45:03] I hope that's helpful. Come back next week for a cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store.
+
+[45:33] You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening. You got my head all twisted.
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+[0:03] Broadcasting live from Roberta's in Bushwick, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. This is Sam Edwards, proud sponsor of Heritage Radio Network, SurreyFarms.com. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live every Tuesday in the back of Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn on the Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[0:38] Joined today with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, who's gonna leave directly from here to go to Seattle for the modernist cuisine dinner. Portland, what are you doing in Portland? Stump Town. Even though I don't appreciate good coffee. Well, she has she says she agrees because what she wants you, the listener, to feel, is that somehow, like I only pick on her.
+
+[1:12] Instead, what actually happens, I'll just give you a uh here's the thing. So uh for a living, Nastash and I try to tell people what they should be eating, you know, not what they should be eating in a in a way you should eat this, but trying to help people make better decisions, to make things better, to do a better job making food, using technology or otherwise, whether it's with cooking issues, whether it's at Booker and Dax, whether it's at the Museum of Food and Drink, we spend all of our time trying to increase the quality and not the snobbery, but the quality of uh what people can produce and do produce and do consume, right? So, like n s what Nastash will do is not once or twice, or three or four or twenty or thirty or a hundred and twenty times, but more. Poke me with things that she knows will bother me. For instance, that her favorite coffee happens to be from one of those quilted like boxes on the side of the street with wheels.
+
+[2:03] You guys know what I'm talking about? Also joined in the studio with uh our intrepid engineer and the guy who keeps the entire Heritage Radio running, Jack Insley over there. Hello. Yeah. Yeah, you know what I'm talking about?
+
+[2:12] Those quilted those quilted, like they got like stale stale bagels and coffee in 'em. So Nastasha, uh uh her point is that she likes to say that this is her favorite coffee because and the first thirty or forty times I didn't let it irritate me. And then because it's not like I can say, hey, look, Nastasha, you enjoy that coffee, right? It's not that you don't enjoy it because somehow you enjoy going down to the cesspool that is your street and and buying a coffee from this guy, and somehow that's an enjoyable human interaction that doesn't involve hipsters. Because folks, Nastasha hates hipsters and good yeah, hates them.
+
+[2:49] And good coffee and hipsters in this city, they go together. Do they not, Jack? Most cities. Yeah. Yes.
+
+[2:54] Yes. Okay, fair. Fair. Okay. Uh she hates going to uh Starbucks because she hates corporations and and the people who work in them.
+
+[3:04] Jack, you can agree with that. Oh, absolutely. Yeah, yeah. But she so she hates that. And and she hates the the general alternative, which are hipsters, right?
+
+[3:13] Because you're not it's hard to get unless they're an owner, like a fifty-year-old non-hipster, to sit around and make you a coffee all day. Jack, am I correct about this? You're spot on. Yeah. Good coffee's good coffee though.
+
+[3:24] That's what I'm saying. And and and and and there's no snobbery to enjoying good coffee. It's just it's it's a right it's a ri it's a ritual. Like literally, there are peasants somewhere, most likely, picking the coffee cherries that they then processed or shipped all the way around the world to make a cup of coffee for you. Respect it.
+
+[3:40] That's all I'm saying. Respect. Respect the coffee. You have a caller. Oh, okay, call caller, you're on the air.
+
+[3:46] Uh hey there, Dave. Uh I wanted to ask about uh pressure cooking. Ah good. Uh I am in the enthusiast category, not uh it's uh home chef, and have been listening to your show for a while. Um long enough that I memorized the phone number, which is a little scary to me.
+
+[4:02] Wow, cool. Yeah, because I forgot to mention it. Good. Yeah. Uh and uh uh So the I can't really afford this the sous vide equipment, the low the low temperature right now, but I did get a pressure cooker and because I've heard you mention it a bunch of times, and I was curious about some recipes.
+
+[4:20] I hadn't really heard you talk too much about like what's pressure cook is really good for. I really I got it in the mail, then I was like, Well, what do I do with this? Okay, do you what kind of pressure cooker do you have? It's just a s it's a six quart, and I c I can't remember the brand. Does it vent or does it not vent?
+
+[4:36] Like in other words, when it's when it's running, do does it constantly put steam out or not? I haven't even tried it yet. Okay. So they the the pressure cookers in general, they uh all pressure cookers that you that you buy. It's gas or it's electric.
+
+[4:51] It's uh it's g it's stove. Okay. Stove top yeah. So all stovetop um units basically uh can either generate five Psi of pressure or fifteen, right? And so they it's fifteen.
+
+[5:02] Yeah, yeah, no, but you could do uh in other words, they they're usually settable to do either. But you Oh, I see, okay, great. Right, but m most of the recipes that I do are based on fifteen. Uh the the main difference is is that certain pressure cookers have a uh pressure regulating mechanism in them that uh regulates pressure without venting steam. So they use a spring and you actually can see like uh um a spring traveling up without any steam coming out of the units, notably kun recon has ones like that then other um pressure cookers um they let you know they're at pressure and they regulate their pressure by uh emitting steam and so you have to have steam emitting from it a little bit not a lot uh in order to judge whether you've reached the proper pressure or not okay so one of the great things to do with pressure cookers is uh stocks stocks and and soups um what you need to realize when you're doing that when you're making soups in in general in a pressure cooker is that pressure cooking drastically mutes the flavor of things like onions it gets rid of a lot of their pungency but it also amplifies their sweetness so I like a lot of that sweetness from onions so I like I quadruple my onion base in a recipe right uh but things like carrots they stay sweet but they don't get more or less sweet or celery so if you just take the classic miropoi there okay.
+
+[6:23] But what what what happens is you get extremely fast removal of gelatin and flavor from the meats. So you can do a pressure cook stock in 15 minutes. Right? And then you you you let it come down and then you can do you could put a second set of bones into a second stock. I could do a triple stock which is extremely indulgent uh I grant you but in in a in about an hour.
+
+[6:48] The trick is if your pressure cooker is the kind of pressure cooker that releases steam uh I found that there's a flavor degradation in in the stock versus regular regular production. It's still faster, it's still good. But a pressure cooker that does not really release steam makes a pr a stock that, in my estimation, and the people that have tasted it is darker, meatier, and tastes better and has better flavor than regular cooked stock and and is also faster. Whereas if you have one that releases steam, then the flavor is not quite as good as regularly produced stock. Still good, but not quite as good as regularly produced stock, but it still is quicker.
+
+[7:29] One way around this is something that I I learned actually from Mirvold and Young and Maxime from Modernist Cuisine is they actually do smaller stocks inside of mason jars in the pressure cooker. So when you're doing that, there's a there's a couple of advantages if you're doing a soup or something with meat in it that way. One, it's sterilized if you cook it long enough. You have to know what you're doing, right? So it's shelf stable at that point.
+
+[7:54] Uh but you know, unless you read up on it, be careful. Okay. Uh second, uh there is no choice, there's no way that volatiles can uh leave, and so even with a uh pressure cooker that vents, you can get all the benefits of an undone pressure cooker. And the third one is you can do extremely small volumes. So if you have um something um like uh squab and you don't have that many bones or some sort of game bird or anything like that where you don't have a lot of the product to begin with, you can still make a very concentrated flavorful stock because if you put it into a mason jar, and you can get different sizes of mason jars all the way up to a liter and a half if you wanted to, uh then uh you can make those things very concentrated in small quantities.
+
+[8:34] So that's a that's a good thing to do. Um another uh great thing with pressure cookers is uh pressure cooking uh eggs. You let them you let them uh hard boil for a couple of minutes with the lid off, then uh just so that they're set so that they don't rupture. Then you you bring them up from cold. Then you close the pressure cooker, allow it to come up to 15 psi, cook it for between 45 minutes, an hour and 10 minutes, let it come down naturally.
+
+[8:58] If you let if you vent it, uh it the eggs could explode. And then when they're cool, you'll open them, you'll see that they're brown uh and they'll have the out the whites will have a kind of nutty toastiness, and the yolks will have an aroma of kind of a giblet gravy kind of kind of chicken livery uh aroma, which I find uh quite awesome. And that's due to the myard reactions in it. Um pressure cooking mustard seeds in vinegar. You have to blanch them once or twice to get rid of the dirty taste.
+
+[9:26] Uh then after you pressure cooked them in vinegar, then drain them and toss them in sugar, makes an amazing garnish. Uh horseradish grated, again, blanched to get rid of the dirty flavor, pressure cooked. Uh you can make horseradish purees that taste of horseradish but aren't very pungent. Um I actually use the pressure cooker all the time. And this is something I don't normally do.
+
+[9:45] I would never do this to serve someone in a uh in a restaurant situation because I would just do a long cooked braise. But um pork shoulder, just hacked up with a bunch of uh, you know, you just get like you know your three or four favorite ground dried chilies and uh you know pork shoulder and even a little even, you know, I always have the I always I always use chicken stock because I always have chicken stock in my freezer, but any kind of stock in there, uh, and just very minimal amounts of liquid. The trick with pressure cooking is a minimal amount of uh liquid in there because you're not gonna boil a lot of it off. Uh but they're they're fantastic for you know for all of these things. And then you can get into kind of crazier situations like uh trying to do pressure cooked caramels, um but they they require uh a little bit of tweaking.
+
+[10:32] But yeah, pressure cooker, you're gonna have and not only that, I don't know where you live, but summertime's coming on, and nothing beats uh pressure cooking. You know, sub summertime pressure cooking is awesome because you can you could tear off uh a lot of ingredients in it without releasing a lot of heat into your kitchen because once they're at pressure they have they're very very efficient once they're pressure because remember you have to throttle it way down once they're cooking so I think you're gonna I think you're gonna enjoy it. Cool thanks. Hey thank you. I have one one quick comment for Jack.
+
+[11:01] Oh Jack here you go Jack. Oh all right. What's up with the reverb button? At the end of the show the reverb button always goes off over the credits. Wow it it makes me very happy that somebody noticed that thanks that's just that's just to keep me entertained back here.
+
+[11:17] Yeah. Thanks man. Nice nice. Speaking of thank you very much. I was listening by the way uh quite correct call your questions to 7184972128.
+
+[11:26] That's 7184972128. Alright so back to Nastasha and her coffee. The main point of that was the main point was that is that she'll say something like I don't like that kind of coffee and to you the listener when and I I on purpose knew she was going to do something like this so I didn't go crazy. But to when I go completely bonkers when she says something like that, it's because it's as though she's opening a wound that hasn't even healed yet that she's been stabbing me with the same knife for like two and a half, three months in this that particular one years. So she's her her one of her little joys in life is to set up these situations where she can make me look like a tyrant in public uh through this c kind of careful application of minor irritants over long periods of time.
+
+[12:13] It's not that calculated it's really not. I mean that just comes naturally to you? Yes. Wow. Anyway, hopefully I'll come back with an appreciation for coffee.
+
+[12:21] Is is are you gonna are you gonna see Dwayne? Or hipsters. Yeah, or hipsters. Right. Right.
+
+[12:26] You know, Portland, Portland, many great things have come from Portland. Andy Andy Ricker. I'm gonna see him out. Jack, you gonna see him out there? Jack, you been to that restaurant yet?
+
+[12:33] Pac Pac? No. What the hell's wrong with you? I don't know. Jesus.
+
+[12:37] It's in your hipster part of town, Joe. Wow. Damn. Also, speaking of Reaver Button, I listened to a little bit of the show to check how the iTunes worked. I sound like I'm on Coke most of the time.
+
+[12:47] I'm trying to speak slower today. I uh look I'm telling you guys, I'm not on like the my drug of choice is alcohol. Uh consumed hopefully responsibly on most occasions. Uh what? That's what my drug?
+
+[13:01] My drug is rage. Rage. Yeah, rage. Anyway. Uh so I'm trying to speak a little bit more slowly today.
+
+[13:07] Uh if you guys have any opinions on whether I should speak uh at this pa pace or at my normal pace, give me a call. But I can't help it. Like I'm trying right now. I'm deliberately slowing myself down so I don't sound like I'm I wanna know if people like the personal anecdotes that you that you tal uh say, tell like what? I don't know, just some of your stories I enjoy.
+
+[13:25] I tell you. Like when it's all scientific and food. I mean I told people I told people, you know, boring show. Call call in about waffles, anything. Yeah, we'll talk about anything.
+
+[13:35] Yeah, yeah, yeah. Uh no question is too stupid. That should be the new tagline for the show. No question too stupid, no host. No host too smart, no question too stupid.
+
+[13:44] Yes, yes. Alright, there we go. Uh Dave and Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, which was abbreviated here to N T H L Chang. What? Did you get that right away?
+
+[13:54] I didn't. You didn't? Yeah, well, you don't yeah, whatever. Okay. Greetings from New Hampshire.
+
+[13:59] Chris Anderson at the Monitor's Pantry pointed me to your show, and I've been enjoying the podcast. With Memorial Day around the corner. Oh my god, it is around the corner. Nastasha's going directly, by the way, from Portland to Mirvold in Seattle to Japan. And I'm making her fly to all those locations with three.
+
+[14:14] Count them three red hot pokers. Oh, that's fine. Oh, I have a stop in Philadelphia. See? What the hell's wrong with you?
+
+[14:20] Hey, listen, Nastasha, here's the thing. You would I'm I'm sorry, I'm gonna get to your question in in what in one second. Uh uh here's the thing. Uh Nastash and I are the two cheapest people on earth. We are so freaking cheap that even though we're out on the L train, Nastasha's like, how many transfers do I gotta get to take a subway with all my stuff to the to the airport to LaGuardia so I can I'm like, listen, Nastasha, listen.
+
+[14:43] We have a company now. Booker, I want everyone to listen to this. Booker and Dax will pay for you to take a car service to LaGuardia, the airport. Oh wow. That's funny.
+
+[14:58] I was looking for the applause and I found that. Yeah, which is even better. Yeah, but yeah, it would be it would be hard to um it would be hard to kind of understand the deeply ingrained cheapness that Nastasha and I have in general. We're some cheap people. Yeah.
+
+[15:13] Anyway, uh okay, so with Memorial Day around the corner, can you summarize some specific time, temperature, and prep recommendations for low temperature for insurance and other low temperature cookout dishes? Off the top of my head are sausage and beer, uh hamburger, fried chicken, strip steak, ribeye, and others. I have a polycyon circulator and will likely cook, chill, re-therm, and finish on the grill slash fryer, etc. How do you guesstimate minimum return time for a mixed pot of proteins? Is the maximum hold time four hours minus the cook time?
+
+[15:44] Uh and there's another question, but this that which I'm gonna get in one second. In fact, I might do it later because it's gonna take me a million years to answer that one. And Nastasha doesn't want to hear about any science, apparently. But they these questions are from Rob Trapas. And by the way, thank you for telling me how to pronounce your name because there's no way I would have gotten it off the spelling.
+
+[15:59] What would your guess have been? I know, I don't know, but I knew you were gonna appreciate that, and I I did too. Yeah, I yeah, we appreciate that kind of thing. We appreciate it. Unless your name's Smith, in which case I know how to pronounce that already.
+
+[16:10] Okay. Uh so on retherm time, by the way, uh the don't worry. Everything on how long you can hold uh a meat depends on the temperature of the bath. If the bath temperature is extremely low, so if I'm doing so first of all, your first question was cooking for insurance. For those of you that don't know what that is, it's what you do is you use low temperature cooking, which is uh using a water bath or a combi oven or uh CVAP is using a very, very accurate temperature to cook the meat all the way through.
+
+[16:40] Now the meat at this point is not finished. In general, when I do cooking for insurance, low temperature for insurance, I don't do any kind of pretreatments to it at all. All I'm doing is assuring that the center of the meat is cooked exactly where I want it to be, and then I cool it. Okay. And so for chicken breast, it would be 63 degrees Celsius.
+
+[17:01] Uh for chicken leg, it would be 65, 66 degrees Celsius. Uh for uh rib steak, it would be 55 degrees Celsius. Uh and the you know the list goes on and on. For sausage, it would be uh I usually do 60 or 140 degrees. It's a little pink in the center, but I like it that way.
+
+[17:20] Did you like the brats we had? Yeah, I love them. That was 60 degrees. But Pat Lafrida donated to the uh museum of food and drink event we had last week. Uh thank you for people that have uh been to our fundraisers in the past.
+
+[17:29] And Pat LaFrida made up a bunch of delicious brats. We circulated them in Brooklyn, uh Brooklyn Brewery, gave us a bunch of beer, graciously gave us beer to circulate the brats in, and we circulated the brats at uh 140 degrees uh Fahrenheit, 60 degrees Celsius, and then grilled them off. Man, were those good. They're really good. Man, on Martin's potato rolls.
+
+[17:51] What was the name of the mustard we got? That's a good mustard, too. Look it up. That was delicious mustard. Anyway, delicious.
+
+[17:57] Um so what you do is you cook it all the way through, and then when you're finishing them, uh and a lot of times we don't re-therm when you're doing for insurance. We don't re-therm using uh or reheat using low temperature, we just do traditional cooking methods. So if you're doing a prime rib, here's my recommendation for a prime rib. Cook an entire prime rib to 55 degrees all the way through. Now it's medium rare, rare, medium rare in the center.
+
+[18:19] It's good, right? Whole thing's good. Now let it cool down, wrap it, let it cool down, put it into a very hot oven, and just wait for the crust to develop. What you want is that nice crispy crust on the outside, and with a prime rib, actually, you want a little bit of overcooked stuff on the outside. Otherwise, the prime rib doesn't look appetizing when you cut through it because it's all one color of meat.
+
+[18:39] But you're all you need to focus on is delicious crust because the inside is already cooked to where you want it, right? And so that's the essence of cooking for insurance. Duck breast, 57 degrees uh Celsius, about 135 uh Fahrenheit. You want to cook it for 45 minutes, make sure you flatten the breast uh so that the skin will render later, let it cool down, and then all you need to focus on is searing off the skin. And that scare sear searing off the skin will reheat the meat enough to serve it, but it's not gonna overcook it because you're just focused on the skin, so your pan heat can be a little bit higher than it normally would, right?
+
+[19:12] So uh, and basically anything can be can be done that way. Hamburgers, I do it 55 to 57, depending on uh the how squeamish the people are who are eating it. Uh then on a hamburger, uh a hamburger sometimes you could even let cool all the way down. You gotta be a little careful to not let oxygen in the bag, otherwise there's gonna be a problem with uh rancidity when it reheats, especially if it sits overnight, which you don't want to do. Uh and then you know, you you can let it cool down and then deep fry it, and they're great.
+
+[19:41] Uh rib steak, uh, if you're gonna serve it um right away, I would drop the temperature to 50 degrees Celsius, but the not if you're gonna serve it in the health department, kind of but I do that at home. But don't let it sit very long at 50. I will only let it sit a couple of hours at 50 C because there you you're at the borderline where bacteria are gonna start coming back to life. They won't, but you know, you don't want to be in that situation uh too long. But if you're holding something like a sausage above the temperature at which bacteria are dying, and the temperature keeps getting revised down and down, uh, but a sausage you can hold easily at 140 or even uh lower.
+
+[20:15] Uh, you're gonna be killing bacteria, and you can hold it for infinity, basically. You know, the texture will start going down, but you can hold it uh for infinity. Um, how's that sound? Is that good? Good.
+
+[20:26] All right. Uh I'm gonna come back to your other question after uh the commercial break and answer it a little bit later on cheeses. Come back, cooking issues. She'll only come out at night. Nothing is new.
+
+[21:23] I'm seeing the hair before. Watching the wedding. We should sit with you, but our eyes are on the door. What you think you get it for free? The woman is wild.
+
+[21:45] She can't stand by the bird and die you walk. If you're in it for love, you ain't gonna get this. The following program was sponsored by S. Wallace Edwards and Sons. Summertime is not the only time when barbecue is welcome.
+
+[22:02] At S. Wallace Edwards and Sons, Sam Edwards has been working his magic on ribs, briskets, hip-cooked pulled pork, and much much more. Add a few of their sides, and the party is complete. Entertaining has never been so easy. To order, go to Virginia Traditions.com.
+
+[22:21] The Reaver busting it out. Yeah, man. Call any questions. Oh, we have a caller right now, but let me just say this before. Before we take the collar on, I like myself some Sam Edwards ham.
+
+[22:30] Sam Edwards though does not enjoy the potty mouth. Oh. Does not curse around Sam Edwards. It's true. He's a traditional man.
+
+[22:37] Caller, you're on the air. Well, you know, I hear Nasasha's coming to Portland. So uh I don't actually have a question. I do have one about the uh the pressure cooking stock and account tools cool. Um but I do have a suggestion, uh, which is if you only go to one brewery in Portland, it would be go to the Cascade Brewing Barrel House, which is fantastic, and all they have is sour beer.
+
+[23:01] And it's constantly changing and it's probably the uh the best place. Like in general? Yeah. No, no, like seriously, in in general, I you have so many to choose from. It's the one place.
+
+[23:18] You just keep going back. It changes all the time. There's uh it's like seriously the best place in general. The cheese bar is good too. Awesome.
+
+[23:27] I'll take it outside cascade cascade brewing? Cascade brewing it's a barrel house. It's on it's on Belmont. It's it's just constantly changing sour beer and it's uh it's it's a fantastic value as well. Yeah and they they specialize in sour in sour beers like uh like uh Rodenbach style or or what?
+
+[23:47] Uh well they have they have some Rodenbach style but they'll do they'll do everything from uh from sour wheat beers uh to and and then and then they'll barrel age them and then they'll serve some of them alive from the barrel. Um and uh they'll add I mean the most random fruits and nuts that I haven't uh trying to remember there's one that's like a I can't even pronounce the nut that they put in there. Um but it was it was fantastic. Nastasha likes it actually uh if she's gonna have a beer it's hard to get her to have it frankly which I don't want to bring up right now but but she likes beer with acidity. I do.
+
+[24:25] So she this might may be the place for her and I hope to hear back from her on uh how much she enjoyed it. Yeah, thank you so much. Yeah. Uh about the the stock in the in the can though when you're when you're canning what does uh if you if you add any aromatics or uh or uh you know when you add vegetables to it does that or are you talking about just making it with uh with the bones because wouldn't would those break down or something if you left them in a can for a while? Uh if you let them a long time probably.
+
+[24:54] I mean uh they th you know the the ones they were doing they were doing almost like um I mean think about confis are are done in jars all the time and they're delicious and there's there's bones in them. Um so once it stops cooking you're not gonna get a uh that much more extraction. I mean in other words I don't think you're gonna be ripping the calcium out of it if that's what you mean. Um depend 'cause it it's not gonna be acidic. Do you know what I'm saying?
+
+[25:14] Um and in things like confit that are often jugged or or or can process, um they're fine for for a long period of time. But i I think in modern cuisine they were making just smaller versions of stocks. Uh I I haven't seen that section in a long time so you're stretching my uh my memory banks and when I did get to look at it I I have to this make a confession I don't own it yet so I've only gotten to look at it when I have like pawed through it at the events I've gone to you know what I mean? So it's so and I I mean I know all those guys and I've t I talk to those guys all the time and and and I've read ch you know chunks of it but literally sitting at a library. You know not uh I will own it.
+
+[25:59] It's I'm not I I'm it's worth the money. You know what I mean? But I just don't own it yet. Because imagine if I told my wife, hey honey I spent five hundred dollars on a book what? You know what I mean?
+
+[26:08] Booker and Daxon loan a copy. We'll keep it at the uh what's it called uh so yeah so uh that answer your question? Yeah, yeah, I think it does. Cool. I have a question for the caller actually.
+
+[26:19] Twitter Twitter wants to know if that brewery uses spontaneous fermentation. You know, I believe they have their own cultures now. So they they're it's actually uh in the barrels now. And so when they when they put the beer into the barrel, um, it picks up all the uh lacto bacillus and uh botanamyces and uh whatever else is in there. And so they've got uh they've got different barrels, and then they'll blend some of them together towards the end.
+
+[26:48] And but I'm not sure if that originally came from spontaneous fermentation, if if the cultures are in the barrel. But I I think they are because they have their own um they get like all their all their fruit from around here and they just they just let it go. They they're really, really, really good. Cool. Thanks.
+
+[27:07] Thank you. We also have another caller, guys. All right, caller, you're on the air. Uh hi, David Dandy from Chicago. Hey.
+
+[27:15] Hey, how you guys doing today? All right. Good, good. Hey, I had a meal at Charlie Trotter's last Thursday at the kitchen table. That was incredible.
+
+[27:22] Oh, when when are they closing that down? When are they closing down? Hey, I'm having trouble hearing you. I I think I might need to call back. Uh well, well, what you you talked talk all right.
+
+[27:31] You call back in a sec. I want to hear about the dinner of Charlie. Give a call right back. I will, thanks. Michael.
+
+[27:36] So while he's waiting to call back, Michael Nackin from Herbaboracious uh wrote in and uh thanked us for mentioning the book. We've read the book. I enjoyed the book, and by the way, it gives a well-deserved shout out, he does to iceberg lettuce, which is delicious. I like iceberg lettuce. Who doesn't like iceberg lettuce?
+
+[27:53] It's some crunchy, cool, refreshing stuff. Jack, are you with me? I'm on board. Nastasha even is on board. We're all three of us are on board for for iceberg lettuce and and for Michael Natkin from Urbavaracious.
+
+[28:04] Uh he wrote back if you would like to be on one of our shows, let him know what you think would be a good fit. You cook them on this show if you wanted to. Yeah. We could have a talk. Maybe I don't know if you want to.
+
+[28:13] You could if you if that's what you wanted to do. He just was in New York and didn't stop by the Booker and Dex because he went to uh Aterra, which uh he gave an amazing uh review to the uh have you been there? No. With Mark? This seems like the kind of place you would go.
+
+[28:26] Apparently amazing new place uh platform New York magazine gave it four stars. Uh I haven't been cup because I haven't been but uh he says says very very good things about caller's back by the way all right caller you are on the air hey Dave this is Andy again. Yeah is that better? Can you hear me? Yeah yeah I can hear you what's going on.
+
+[28:45] Good good so Charlie Trotter when are they closing down? They're closed end of August. I think August 31st or something like that. Alright so you're one of the last people to ever eat there. I I think I was and in fact the group that I went with we loved it so much we're gonna try to go again on the very last day that they're open.
+
+[29:01] It was just you know it was it was incredible. I mean being in the kitchen and actually seeing everybody cook and uh you know serving us right there it was just uh really an experience of a lifetime and a couple of my dining companions actually got were able to get up and help help some of the chefs like prepare our prepare some of the dishes near the end. So was it as clean as it is famously purported to be it was pretty clean. Yeah we we ended up staying there until like 1 30 a.m or something like that and they were scrubbing the heck out of that thing by the time they were done. Yeah I was pretty impressed with the cleanliness.
+
+[29:31] Charlie's uh he's he's uh he's kind of got a coarse mouth which is pretty fun he's it seems like he's having fun in the last few months that he's open. So wait so you're saying the floor is clean but his mouth is not that's exactly right yes yeah but that's the important thing you know yeah, exactly. Well, he famously said once that uh you could almost review a restaurant just by looking at its floor in the kitchen. Interesting you know, I think I've heard that now that you say that. Yeah.
+
+[29:55] Yeah, it's kind of one of his better known uh statements. Yeah. Well, I I I like it. You know, I like eating in clean establishments, and that was one of the cleaner ones I've well, I mean, I've never been in a real you know, rarely been in a real restaurant kitchen before, so this was uh but I was I was impressed nonetheless. Nice.
+
+[30:11] Yeah, so they did kind of this like uh this uh beet terrene. And I was wondering what do you think they use? Do they use anything to bind it together or uh how you know I imagine it would be cooked at a fairly high temp, or would you cook the beets beforehand and then just put them in the terrine and let them chill and set, or what do you think? Well, is it served hot or cold? Uh cold.
+
+[30:29] Yeah, so they could bind it with almost anything then. So it's served cold, um uh I mean the classically obviously you could you would bind something like a gelatin. If you wanted to stay um if you want to stay vegetarian, I would use a combination of um if you want it that gelatin like feel, that awesome mouthfeel of gelatin, I would use uh a mixture of kappa carragenin and locust bean gum. The kappa carragenin by itself is brittle and the locust bean gum when you add it to it, um softens it. So it's like jay uh so it's like gelatin, but it still can re melt, so you can use it.
+
+[31:01] If you wanted to heat it, I mean you could use agar. The problem with agar is uh it's not a hundred percent clear, so it's not gonna look as shiny. Do you know what I'm saying? Uh as as as Kappa plus the special LBG that CP Coco serves will use. Uh you could also use uh something called gelan gum.
+
+[31:19] Gelan is not gonna be as flexible if you use the clear one, it's gonna be a little more brittle, but then you could deep fry it. Cool. Yeah, that oh wow, deep fry it. Yeah, that would be incredible. Yeah.
+
+[31:29] Uh the problem with gel-an, if you're gonna use gel-an, is that you have to um you m you have to heat the beets before you pour it on, or you're gonna get some pre-gelling problem. Do you know what I mean? Okay. Uh agar is gonna be a little simpler to work with, but but uh kappa carrageenan LBG, which is uh uh I think Modernist has a has a version of that uh somewhere. Uh that mixture is a really good or just straight up gelatin.
+
+[31:51] Gelatin is great as as long as your kitchen's not going to be too hot and you're gonna serve it cold. Yeah, and I'm not too worried about you know keeping it veggie or vegan. So I think gelatin would probably be the way to go. But yeah, it was really nice. Real golden beet, just gorgeous.
+
+[32:04] So another quick question. I I called in last summer about a ham I was curing in my attic, and unfortunately I went up there a couple of a couple of weeks ago and I've got bugs. Uh I hate that. No. Beetles or mites?
+
+[32:18] I what what was the first one? Beetles. I think they're mites. Uh they well, they're little uh they look to be little grubby type things. Um, you know, they leave kind of a sawdust looking what I assume is some sort of feces, you know, around where they're where they're chewing.
+
+[32:34] Basically, there was a little bit of a taint in up near the bone. Uh there's a little bit of extra skin removed and a little too much exposure. I don't think I got it faulted quite well enough when I first uh, you know, when I first cured it. And so there's always been a little bit of a taint up there, but until a few weeks ago, you know, no sign of any other type of contamination. So you think there's yeah, what do I do?
+
+[32:53] Am I am I just screwed? I mean, or or do you think there's some is there a way I can, you know, cut the rest of it around the bugs, or what do you think? Okay, so you're in Chicago, yeah? I am, yeah. So you're pr probably pretty much like New York.
+
+[33:06] I mean, they have other things like skippers down south that cause problems, but in our kind of uh latitudes, the two main enemies of ham are different varieties of boring beetle and mites. So uh the boring beetle, you'll see holes in the meat just above the fat line. Uh did you see those? Are there holes in the meat? I I couldn't really tell.
+
+[33:29] Like the plate the butcher job wasn't wasn't very good. You know, they they uh there it was clear that the pig was hung from this leg, so there's like a little bit of split, you know, in the tendon by the uh what do you call it? The uh um Gambrel? Right gamble holes, basically. Yeah.
+
+[33:45] Uh so I I haven't had the chance to really inspect it that closely to see where it is. But it's not on the face. It's all up by the uh up by the the bone. I'm hanging it uh, you know, hock hock up. All right, well, I haven't noticed.
+
+[33:57] I mean the well the good news is is that the taint can be cut away and the rest of the ham is is okay. And that uh, you know, I I I've I've had a lot of beetle damage before on hams I've been had hanging, but they were always on the face, but for for those of you that don't know what we're talking about, the face is the portion of meat that the bone projects out of that was attached to the pig. And I usually see beetle damage right at the fat line uh on the face side, right? Not on the not through the skin, because the skin's a lot harder to attack than the face. So the boring beetle damage that I've had has been on the face side.
+
+[34:32] So it's probably not that. If you're not seeing individual bugs, but just kind of dust on the ground, that's probably mites, and those mites that like the dust is actually mites and not feces, it's actually mites. The good news there, brush off the mites and you're and you're good to go. The bad news, the bad news, once you have mites in your attic, you have mites in your freaking attic, and like even if you wait for a year and hang another ham, you're gonna get mites on that ham. So yeah.
+
+[35:01] So like there are things you can treat your your uh attic with that uh I forget what I forget the name of them because I've never I've never tried to do it. I also now have mites in my house, so when I hang hams, I get mites. It's not gonna hurt it. You can brush them off. It's not a problem.
+
+[35:14] Cool. Uh well I think I think I did see some actual little grubby larva looking things, so it's probably not the mice. Oh, but that was probably on the taint section. Oh yeah, good point. Right, right, right.
+
+[35:24] So maybe it's just uh you know, flies or something like that. Right. That could be flies, any kind of fly, like blow fly or anything like that. You know, things like that, like because they'll eat um that section, whereas they won't eat the really cured part. I mean, cut yeah, cut yourself a good section around that that tainted portion.
+
+[35:40] And to be honest, there's not that much meat up there anyway. You're not losing that much. What you're losing is a couple good soups. That's it. Yep.
+
+[35:47] You know what I mean? And the rest of your ham should be fine. Yeah, you can give that up and the rest of your ham should be fine. Yeah, and you know, frankly, it's it's been a good experiment, but you know, for the quality of ham you can get from you know, Finchville and Newsom and stuff like that, not that expensive and pretty freaking incredible. So uh this might be my last stab at it, but at least I can salvage this one.
+
+[36:05] Yeah, so but you know what? Like it's rewarding and there is a learning curve to it. Um, you know, you might want to check out uh Dr. Norman Marriott, uh formerly a m he's emeritus at uh I think of Virginia Tech, has a uh pretty good PDF available online. Uh yeah.
+
+[36:22] Uh with saying that. Yeah, with troubleshooting on uh on on ham curing if you want to give it again. I unfortunately don't have a place that I can hang one, so I haven't I haven't done, but as soon as I get a house out in the middle of nowhere to, you know, take my kids to when I'm not in New York City, I'll be hanging up some pork, believe it or not. Let me believe it. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[36:40] I think I I'm looking at a cur curing chamber too. Uh you know, the cured meats blog, Jason Molinari, I think he's written in a couple of times. He's got uh, you know, some good, good DIY curing chamber tips. So I think that uh hopefully that'll help. Uh I I'd like to try some other type of uh salumi and things like that as well.
+
+[36:56] So it is the age of the DIY, thank God it's an exciting time to be alive. Heck yeah. Heck yeah. Cool. Thanks so much.
+
+[37:04] Thank you. Uh Jack, can we do one more commercial break? Uh sure. Call your questions. What is it?
+
+[37:10] 71849728. 7184972128. Cooking and use. Stealing from the mouse of technology. But I can feed all the power little swimming cups already over.
+
+[37:51] Who's from Seattle? Yeah. What you don't know is that my cousins are from Seattle and we're always doing like the weird Eddie Vetter stuff when we're cooking. By the way, I pre-apologize to everyone for not getting to all I'm not gonna be able to get to all the questions today. Right, Stas?
+
+[38:09] Well, let's do them for Japan. Oh, we're gonna try and do cooking issues from Japan? Can we do that, Jack? Yeah, let's do it. Cooking issues from Tokyo.
+
+[38:18] What? Yeah, we're gonna be in the in the uh in the prep kitchen. Yeah, it's awesome. Okay. Uh Dear Nastasha, Dave, and Jack.
+
+[38:25] Uh love the show. Appreciate how accessible you make it for us to not in the industry full time. I've learned a lot and had a chance to use much of what you talk about. Thank you. Uh this is from Alan Freeman Friedman, by the way.
+
+[38:34] Uh, and he expects us all to be killed by uh by vegan terrorists, but you first, Nastasha. Just saying. I'm curious whether current microwave technology is at all interesting. I have a chance to get a very cheap new microwave with continuous amplitude control rather than traditional pulse width full on, full-off cycling. But it wouldn't be worth the hassle of swapping out and disposing of the old one if there's nothing really new and interesting I can do with it.
+
+[38:56] I've never really used a microwave for anything other than leftovers and melting chocolate, but perhaps there are fun techniques that you could share. Thanks, Alan. And then a little note to Ben A is as much fun as playing with old microwaves was as a rather reckless young geek. I may be more averse to self-immolation these days. Alan.
+
+[39:12] Okay, true story. Having done it several times, please don't chop up your microwave oven. There are dangerous voltages in there. If you defeat the safety interlocks, you can uh nuke your eyeballs with uh microwaves and then they turn white like a cooked egg, never to unwite. Uh yeah.
+
+[39:28] So please don't mess with your excuse me. Please don't mess with your microwaves. Uh that said, I've done it several times. Uh but the the the trick here, for those of you who don't know what the hell we're talking about, when you put a microwave, a standard microwave on half power. Have you noticed this, Nastasha?
+
+[39:45] Do you have a microwave? No. Have you ever had a microwave? You notice how it goes and the light dims a little bit? That's because it doesn't actually change the power level.
+
+[39:57] It just turns the magnetron off and on for a specific amount of time. And it actually takes a little bit of time. The magnetron, by the way, is the thing that's generating the microwaves. That's what it's called. It's called the Magnetron.
+
+[40:08] And it takes a while for the magnetron to heat up and start generating the, you know, to actually start producing appreciable amounts of microwave. So they time the uh the duty cycle, not the duty cycle, the uh the the full cycle, how long that cycle is of to uh take advantage of the fact that the magnetron has a little bit of uh time lag between when you apply power and when the microwaves come out. So uh 80% power, it's on 80% of the time and then off 20. Uh 100% power, it's on 100% of the time. And the theory with microwaves is that that's okay because you're hitting it with full power and then turning it off, and the food gets to cool off and it all averages out.
+
+[40:46] Continuous uh control basic uh is something that allows you to um actually change the amount of power that the microwave is putting out on a continuous basis. I've always wanted one to do very controlled, delicate work on defrosting and things like that, but I've never used one. So I can't say whether or not it's actually any better. The one time I tried to build one, I was trying to do microwave dehydration in a vacuum. Uh and so the idea is is that you use a microwave uh to boil the inside of so microwaves penetrate food, and so you're actually boiling the liquids out on the inside of a product.
+
+[41:24] Um that is advantageous if you're trying to dry it in the presence of a vacuum to instead of freeze-drying, if you don't have it, to do things like uh dehydrated grapes without them having shrunk like raisins because the pro positive pressure of the water boiling out uh keeps them in the proper shape as they're going. The issue is I had a I had a lot of issues, but I wanted to control the power so that it didn't overheat. But my temperature control, my I had a thermocouple in there, and it was arcing like a bastard because as soon as you apply microwaves in a vacuum, a partial vacuum, you get huge plasma balls rolling around and lighting everything on fire on the inside of the microwave. I then was trying to do uh power control on it of my own kind of accord. It was a complete nightmare, horrible.
+
+[42:09] I don't recommend doing it. That said, I've always been interested in actual continuous controlled uh microwaves, but I don't know uh I don't really know. I mean, and what we mean uh all of my microwave tricks are like really crappy things to do to somebody else's microwave at a party at this point, which I can't really I don't really want to talk about on the air. Because there's plenty of websites that'll teach you how to do it, right, Stuzz? Yeah.
+
+[42:28] Yeah. Yeah, yeah. Okay. Um take another question. Uh hey, uh Dave, Nastasha and Jack went to the NRA show recently and scored a deal for a poly science professional circulator frackage for about 50% off.
+
+[42:41] By the way, good tip. If you're going to uh trade shows, the last day of the trade show, people don't want to carry that crap home. So what you can do is make a deal with them, preferably early in the trade show to buy their units before they go home. This way they don't have to take them home, and you can get usually dealer price or sometimes even slightly below dealer price uh at at trade shows. Good little tip.
+
+[43:02] Uh I do not have a vacuum sealer, food stair food saver style, nor chamber. I will receive the circulator soon. I had a couple of questions. Can you leave proteins in the cryovac packaging to cook sous vide? Um perhaps you just give up the ability to pre-sear season and marinate.
+
+[43:16] Okay, the problem with that, uh a lot of um cryovac uh bags that are shipped aren't shipped, they're not cook chill bags, and so you they're not gonna they're not gonna melt in the in at the temperatures you're using in a circulator, but they're not necessarily rated for heating, and so I can't guarantee that there's no sort of plastic, I can't guarantee the plastic safety at temperature. That said, I've done it many times. Um what's the problem with air in the bag while cooking a sous vide or low temp? There's the there's two problems with air. One is that it can cause uh uh an issue where it doesn't heat as quickly and so in shorter cooked things it can um it can lead to spots that aren't cooked as well in very very long cooked things in the middle of the air stops the heat penetration you can get growth of lactobacillus in the place where there was an air pocket uh if it doesn't heat quickly enough and then you can get all flavors the main problem is if there's air in the bag and then you store it for a long time there's oxygen in the bag and you can develop rancidity in the uh in the fat um and that's bad right bad um but in the short term it's not a problem at all uh and finally if I use low temp zip ziplock approach which you can see on cookingissues.com I give uh step by step with pictures uh what limitations safety etc are there with regards to length of time in the bath or temperature used as the bagging is uh not quite a vacuum there are no limitations on time I've done limit I've only cooked up to three days in one but there's no limitations.
+
+[44:52] I wouldn't do anything that's cooked higher than about 70 degrees C. Uh but that's in other words not vegetables. Almost anything else I would cook in a Ziploc bag and it's a great technique. I do that all the time. Thanks I love the show I'm looking forward to checking out Booker and Dax next time in New York City.
+
+[45:07] Nastasha here it is please pick on Dave more on the air so it does not seem so one sided. Drop by the bar and then you'll see it. Wow. Wow what see what you picking on me live? You have to come early I'm mainly at the bar I'm mainly at the bar uh early what I mean we so many other interesting questions uh that I didn't get a chance uh to do today.
+
+[45:27] We have one we're not gonna get any questions this week because of Memorial Day so we can get him. So Colin has a question on pressure cooking marmalades. Marty wants to know about meat analogs uh I you know I still still didn't get to Rob's question on emulsifying sauce uh salts with uh processed cheese and the uh studies that I was looking at where they're making ketchup flavored processed cheese, and we could talk about our ketchup chocolate that we did back in the day. So many, many interesting things that we didn't get to on the air today. I promise to get to them all, hopefully live from Tokyo next week.
+
+[45:58] Cooking issues.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's episode of Cooking Issues has been brought to you by the International Culinary Center. For more information, visit International Culinary Center dot com. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. Roberta's Pizza Will in Bushwick, Brooklyn. Well, we're back from Tokyo, right?
+
+[0:26] Yeah. Do you have a good time with him? No, because you're not speaking to the microphone here. You had a good time? Yes, did you?
+
+[0:32] That fantastic time. Crazy. In fact, uh, the only problem is we have so many questions to get to that I don't know if I'm gonna have time to talk about today. We have a one o'clock here. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[0:40] Well, some other time. Since we have two weeks, we were gone for two weeks. It turned out it was impossible for Nastash and I to schedule doing the cooking issue show with our work schedule over there in the Japan because we were working bar basically until right before the uh show, and so we couldn't really prep out for it, right? Yeah. Anyway, calling your questions to 7184972128.
+
+[0:58] That's 7184972128. All right, so let's wait, is that right? Yeah. Silver remember. I don't even I didn't even listen to it.
+
+[1:05] I just like you just turn on the speech and it just like sprays out of your face and you don't you have no idea. Okay. Well, actually, you should since we don't have time to talk to Tokyo, they should go to the blog. Oh, hey, I restarted the blog again, right? I got uh the first post I did was an apology for not putting a post up.
+
+[1:21] And the second was when Nastash and I went to Jiro's uh sushi along with Mark Ladner. A lot of money. Yeah. Yeah, Jiro loves money. Jiro Dreams of the Money.
+
+[1:30] My favorite part was if the old man or the old man can watch me eat my uh melon, I think sweaty. Well, you know, look, uh for those of you who don't know, this is uh Jiro Dreams of Sushi is the uh is the the movie that's out now. And it's this 86 year old dude. He's eighty-two years old, he got three Michelin stars. Basically, all he does, he wakes up very early, goes to Sakiji Market, you know, fish market in Tokyo, gets the fish, shows up, and his, you know, must be 60s son, right?
+
+[1:58] Yeah. Who must be, he's dreaming of his dad dying so that he could take over the family business. Uh so these guys, along with like a couple other apprentices, are sitting there, and this 86 year old dude is pumping out the sushi every day. But when you show up, it's like 300, 350 dollars a pop, and it's one course every minute for about 19 minutes, and then you they move you to another seat and you eat your melon. And Nastasha and Mark were like like all like bent out of shape like pretzels, worried about like hurrying out.
+
+[2:27] He's like, they want us to leave, they want us to leave. I could give a wrap's ass, whether they want me to leave or not. You know, you know what I mean? It's like if look, if you invite me into your place and I'm spending 350 dollars, it's like, you know, you don't have a right to kick me out in like uh, you know, within 30 minutes. You know.
+
+[2:42] I understand you. Yeah, he's anxiety. He's not a hooker, he's not like you're done, you're out. You know what I mean? The melon, the melon is uh not that I would, you know, know about that.
+
+[2:50] No, yeah. No. Imagine yeah, anyway, whatever. Uh but the quality of sushi was amazing. Go see uh the write up on CookingIssues.com versus this, which is cooking issues the radio show.
+
+[3:01] Yeah. Yeah. Okay. Uh Daniel Seattle writes, hey Nastasha and Dave. Uh love the show.
+
+[3:07] I'm a music teacher and food nerd who loves listening to uh restaurant shop talk. My wife and I throw big dinner parties for twelve to twenty people in our small apartment. Uh, what are the current best practices for making coffee for a whole bunch of people? Usually our guests have at least one small cup each, and usually more, so I shoot for at least uh six to eight ounces per person. Normally you do French press or a pour over or an aero press, but those don't scale up well, even if we do a few batches and transfer them to Thermal carafts, what do you think, Daniel from Seattle?
+
+[3:33] Well, uh, if you're willing to do a pour over uh technique, I think what one thing you could do is switch to a much larger format when you're doing your your pour over. So uh with any of these things, you you're you're it you're into a couple problems. Like fresh coffee is always better than coffee that's uh not fresh, duh. But there's a couple of reasons. One is that the temperature of the coffee uh goes down, like that's the obvious one.
+
+[3:56] And two, um, the aroma of the coffee disperses, and actually the stuff in the coffee itself, the flavors of the coffee, uh, tend to physically change with time after they're brewed. Now, um so some of that can be mitigated by a proper carafe handling. So if you want to use one of your small-scale methods and put it in a craft and have good results, the first trick is to um add a boatload of boiling water to your carafe first. Let it sit for a couple of minutes, cover it, dump it out, add another layer of boiling water, uh, you know, another thing of boiling water to it. Now leave that boiling water in, and now your carafe is very, very hot.
+
+[4:33] Otherwise, even though your carafe is thermally insulated, you're wasting a lot of the heat energy of the coffee just warming up the glass walls of the caraft before you add any stuff to it. Makes sense, right, Sas? Right. Same is true when you're adding liquid nitrogen to a caraft. You you end up losing a lot of the initial batch of liquid nitrogen that you add because you need to chill down the caraft to to a low temperature.
+
+[4:53] So the first thing I would suggest is preheating your craft. Okay. Now, uh the second choice you have is to scale up your mode of production. The problem with most uh scale-ups is that you radically change the actual parameters of your of your brewing. By that I mean either the brew time or the brew water temperature.
+
+[5:13] And either one of those things can really drastically uh influence the flavor uh result in your coffee. So it's very hard to do in a French press unless you were to custom create some sort of a French press operation in a big pot. But I've noticed that whenever you're doing things uh in a large scale, it can still be difficult because the physical time to press something down is going to be different. The physical time to drain something off in a large situation is going to be different. So here's what I recommend.
+
+[5:38] If you're gonna if you're willing to do pour over technique, uh go online and purchase the large, large coffee filters that are meant to go with industrial uh for industrial size like bonomatic coffee machines that make 20 cups at a time. They're much, much larger, a lot more surface area than a standard one. Put it into a colander. Put your grounds into that with a bed depth that's roughly similar to what you would have in a normal pour over coffee situation. Put uh that colander over a larger pot that you can put into a Bain Marie of of hot water and then heat your water for the coffee and pour it all over at once so that your brew time is roughly similar to what your normal pour over uh drip time would be.
+
+[6:19] And that should create and then pour it directly into a thermal uh craft and serve out. And that's probably as close as I think I can get you just off the top of my head, having never done it myself. What do you think? It's good. Good.
+
+[6:30] Yeah. All right. Uh my my iPad, my my stuff is so long-winded that my iPad turns off in between and I have to do it. I think there's a way you can keep it on. There's a way I can keep it on?
+
+[6:39] That Mustacha, you want that for next week? Okay. Which reminds me, I just want to tell listeners that we now have iPhone and iPad compatibility for the live stream, so you guys can uh tune in live on the go. Oh hell. Hell yeah.
+
+[6:52] Yeah. All right. Uh Jonas from Switzerland writes in uh about meat. Hello, Nastasha and Dave. I'm a chef who's been working with the Sous vide technique for some time.
+
+[7:01] In 2011, we tasted various uh foods in Sou vide water baths and published the results we liked in an iPhone app called Sous vide degree Celsius. How the hell do you search for the degree symbol? Crazy. I don't know how you do that. Yeah, I don't know.
+
+[7:11] I have no idea. Anyway, uh recently I've been asked to present low temperature cooking and a science behind it at culinary schools. One of the most stunning examples when presenting it, uh presenting the sous vide method is of course low temperature cooking for long periods of time, as in uh spare ribs or beef shins, veal neck, etc. One question that has often come up, I don't know how to answer, is up to what temperature or for how long do uh collagenase enzymes remain active uh when cooking sous-vide? Uh okay, and then he brings up two articles.
+
+[7:37] One is studying the effects of uh heat on meat proteins by Tornberg, 2005, which says at temperatures between 53 and 63 degrees, the collagen denaturation occurs, uh followed by collagen fiber shrinkage. And then on 497, it quotes an article from 1970 that shows that collagenase, which would be an enzyme, by the way, ACE's enzyme always, and collagenase would be an enzyme that breaks down collagen, could remain active in the meat at cooking temperatures below 60 degrees, whereas uh faster heating um up to 70 or 80 Celsius, they were inactivated. But then uh to contradistinct to that, it says in the abstract for uh effect of prolonged heat treatment from 48 to 63 on toughness and cooking loss of pork, which is a recent article, uh, the residual activity of cat hespin, which is actually a different enzyme, by the way, uh in uh low temperature, long time treated pork was mainly affected by temperature, showing the highest activity between 58 and 63 degrees Celsius. So, what's up with that? How can we uh go for that?
+
+[8:32] Uh you know, how can we go and how long does it have an effect? Is it 60 degrees, 63 degrees? Can you help me sussing this crap out? Best witches from Switzerland Jonas. Okay, first of all, uh for those of you that couldn't follow a damn word I was just saying.
+
+[8:44] The argument here, the question is: in low temperature cooking, is the majority like there there are enzymes that are still working in low temperature cooking, and those enzymes break down various proteins in uh in the meat, okay? And the two main protein fractions we're looking to break down are connective tissue fractions, which is mainly collagen, uh, and uh muscle uh protein uh portions like actin myosin, the actual contraction portions of muscles. Now, collagenase is an enzyme that is present, uh it causes awesome stuff that Nastasha likes to look up on the internet like gas gangrene. It's the thought of like a gangrenous lesion and uh is sending Nastasha into queasy results now. Now look, uh yes, these enzymes uh keep working, and enzymes, especially protein breakdown enzymes have a huge uh impact on the texture of fish uh that's cooked low temperature, and it's why fish can go pasty and mushy.
+
+[9:39] And for a long time it's been theorized that um these enzymes are also a lot of what's going on in tenderizing low temperature cooked meat. I just don't believe it. I just don't think so. I think it has some effect, right? But I think it's not the majority uh of effect.
+
+[9:54] Furthermore, there's two main categories of enzymes you're looking at here. Collagenase enzymes, like I say, break down collagen, but in the recent literature, they're very, very uh they're they're not very often mentioned at all. The others are different, they're cat hespins, which break down the um break down the muscle proteins, and those are in uh they're contained with normally in intact muscle inside the lysosomes, can be released on cooking, and there's recent studies on that that they are released and they may maintain some activity, and so they can uh they can probably act towards muscle protein um um you know tenderness, but it's probably not the majority of the effect. The majority of the effect in low temperature cooking is probably just a thermal uh degradation of collagen over long periods of time at elevated temperatures. Uh that that is my feeling.
+
+[10:41] Also, these articles are, you know, there are a lot of them that are done are review articles, and so you it's like you're comparing apples and oranges when you're comparing temperatures because they're denaturing proteins in different environments, uh, you know, purified or not purified in different muscles and the presence of different fat, they're measuring different temperatures, i.e. the temperature they're cooking to versus internal temperatures. And so it it's really impossible. You're comparing uh apples and oranges, and and I read them and um they didn't make uh too much uh in other words, I wasn't putting too much of a of a weight in it. Is that makes sense, Nastash?
+
+[11:13] Uh okay, but when I was researching this stuff, I I did look up a new there's a new enzyme out that it's called uh colla uh collagenolytic protease MCPO1 that comes from a deep sea bacteria that can break down proteins at low temperatures, like in the fridge. So that might be something new to look at because that's a very recent uh that's a recent thing. That's uh uh you know in 2012, I think. The other thing is is that uh the muscles that these guys choose to do their tests on, and this is the problem with all meat tech all meat texture uh things, they always choose muscles that freaking suck. Like the two articles that you uh put in, they use um a lot of them uh uh semi-tendinosis muscle, which is like eye of round.
+
+[11:55] Sucks. It's a crappy muscle. And the reason they choose that crappy muscle is because it doesn't have a lot of variation in the muscles, so it's easy to run tests on, but it's not an accurate representation of what's going to happen when you're actually cooking meat that you would rather eat. Okay. Uh now, uh another thing, uh oh, by the way that college collagenase enzyme uh enzyme thing you that you cited, and it was cited a couple times.
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+[12:18] Uh, it was done in 1970. It's really old research, and then uh I read some more recent research that said, you know, well, I don't know that that's still, you know, that's not, I don't think it's really a current research. But I found this awesome website that you should all go to right now www.beefresearch.org, beefresearch.org, beef research.org. And look for a ranking of beef muscles for tenderness. It's from the University of Nebraska.
+
+[12:42] And it's an awesome PDF, basically, where they they tell you in very fine detail what the problems are with running studies on tenderness and what tenderness means and the difference in tenderness when it's measured by a machine versus when it's measured by a person, and it ranks uh the different muscles, which is awesome. And then they have a supplementary website, which is freaking fantastic called bovine.unl.edu. Now, if you go to that uh PDF I told you, they mistakenly put a www in front of uh bovine.unl, and then you you can't get to the page. Forget the www. No www, it does bovine.unl.edu.
+
+[13:21] And they have a three-dimensional cow with the muscles on it and the meat and the skeleton, and and and you can click any one and get any one particular muscle and spin it around in 3D and like go in and out. And they have videos of a butcher breaking down every single cut that they have in that thing. So it's a fantastic resource. I can't believe I haven't seen it until now. I hope that all of anyone who's listening here is well finished listening to us.
+
+[13:46] And then after we're done talking, go uh and and check check that out. And first of all, Nebraska, they know their meat. Am I right? Nebraska meat? Mean, come on, Nebraska.
+
+[13:55] Possibilities? Endless. That's the state model. Oh, yeah. Did you know that?
+
+[13:58] No. Yeah. Shout out to Angela Gabots, our uh our Nebraska uh intern of all times, all times. Okay. Uh question three from Paul uh about invertase from uh it's an enzyme heavy show.
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+[14:10] Enzyme heavy show. And remember, ACE means enzyme, people's peoples. All right, hello, Nastasha and Dave. What? No jack?
+
+[14:16] No jack? Anyway. I would like to ask about invertase. I only really know of it being used in those terrible cherry cordial bonbonds, but I'd like to know if it could be used in interesting ways in other applications or if there's a similar product that can similarly break down a less or non-sweet sugar to be used in a more savory application. P.S.
+
+[14:34] huge fan, thank you. Great info that I'll be using one day after I finish my upcoming training with Daniel Balud. Well, good job working with Daniel Balud, badass, well, you know, one of those, you know, major, major badasses, Daniel Balud. Okay. Uh from Paul.
+
+[14:47] Okay. Here's the thing. Invertase for all of you that don't uh know what's going on, invertase is an enzyme that breaks down sucrose, which is uh a disaccharide, right? It's got a fructose uh and a uh uh glucose, right? And and basically the invertase breaks that down into glucose and fructose.
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+[15:06] Now, uh invertase uh in invert sugar, uh, which you can buy as trimoline or things like that, are very useful in uh confectionery because it can minimize or prevent crystallization or affect you know uh minimize the crystal size, uh increase the moisture holding capability of uh of a product. So it's it's good, it's good stuff, it's useful. Now, uh the way this is used in bonbons, the terrible cherry bonbons that you're that you know you refer to, is you make a fondant. Now, fondants are uh crystallized, they look like solids, but what they really are is a network of sugar crystals with a sugar syrup in between those crystals, right? And when you add the invertase to that and then coat that uh fondant in uh chocolate, let's say.
+
+[15:49] Uh what happens over time is uh the sugar the sugar is broken down into invertase, it loses its crystal structure and reverts to a semi-liquid syrup, right? So what you're using is the fact that um is that you you have this syrup that's being bound with sucrose crystals, you break down the sucrose, and then you have this liquid y center. All right. Now, uh the invertase is used for for other things, and so uh I looked up that, I looked up the website for those guys, and it says it's used uh you can make invert with it, which is better than acid uh, you know, acid-catalyzed uh inversion, which is what you normally do when you're making cooking sugar because it's more controlled, etc. etc.
+
+[16:25] Sugar, if you make if you invert sugar that way, it's less apt to turn brown when cooking as opposed to acid-catalyzed inversion. Uh it's also used uh in fruit juices and jams uh to increase sweetness and increase resistance to crystallization and things like that. Okay. Uh but you can't really, I think it really only works on glucose and sucrose. I don't know of any other enzymes that would do that.
+
+[16:46] If you wanted a slowly liquefying center, uh what I would recommend is uh using an enzyme that breaks down pectin uh or breaks down any hydrocolloid at a relatively slow rate. So I would get a uh uh pectin that sets relatively quickly. Stir in some uh SPL to it, uh set it and get it cold fast so that pectinase doesn't break it down too quickly, then you could enrobe that pectin thing in something, and then the pectin would dissolve over time and you get a liquid or something like that where you broke down a hydrocolloid structure instead of a sugar structure. Does that make sense to us? You could also probably do that with something that breaks down a starch the same way that uh undercooked uh like uh undercooked like custard things can liquefy over time if the starch gets broken down.
+
+[17:28] Anyway, those are my thoughts. Eh? Take it with take it, take it or dump. Okay. Uh anyway, let's take our first commercial break and come back.
+
+[17:35] Call your questions too, 718497-2128. That's 7184972128, the cooking issue. If you want to be a great chef, you can't learn everything from within the walls of a classroom. That's why the French Culinary Institute has evolved into the International Culinary Center. When you come here, you don't just learn basic culinary skills.
+
+[18:05] You come to understand and to feel the whole culinary world. You have to network. You have to observe the true meaning of world class performance. You have to intern at some of the world's great restaurants. At the International Culinary Center's campuses in New York, California, and Italy, we will expose you to the whole of the culinary world, one that is evolving daily at a very high speed.
+
+[18:26] The International Culinary Center offers a wide range of courses, including culinary, pastry, and bread baking to Italian wine management, culinary technology, and food writing. For more information, visit International Culinary Center.com. Jack, was that you? That was me. Give me some whole culinary world again.
+
+[18:45] Give me some Oh man. My radio voice. I love that. That's low. That's good.
+
+[18:52] That's good business. Guys, real quick before you go on. Uh so we were at Bonaroo covering the event this weekend, and the gastropod truck dude said hello. Oh, Jeremiah Bullfrogs? Yeah, I go up to him, I'm like, hey, can we interview you for Heritage Radio?
+
+[19:03] And he's like, Oh my god, you're the voice. It's cooking issues. You're the producer. Nice. Yeah.
+
+[19:09] Listen every week. Really? Are we on the air right now? Yeah, we're on the air right now. Yeah, this is how we do.
+
+[19:13] We talk on the air. That's how the radio works. Uh yeah, we're a big fan of the Jeremiah Bullfrog. We did an event with him maybe a year ago. Almost exactly a year ago.
+
+[19:22] Uh in uh in Miami. And uh I love like the crew that comes to uh frequent the uh his uh gastro gastropod truck turns out to be like a really great crew of customers. We really had a great time at their event. I like loved the crowd in Miami. I thought they were really they're really fun anyway.
+
+[19:39] Uh so you interviewed him, what do you use it for? Uh we did a piece on Bonaroo that will be up on the website today. Is Bonaroo the thing with the people, the young people who they meet each other and and the ladies like I'm gonna rock your world? No, it's the guys who threw Googamoga. It's the big music festival in Tennessee.
+
+[19:53] We have a call coming in though, so what's the one I'm talking about? Batteroo? The one where people get high? No, the one on the wall on the on the on the like the one sheets on uh on the street, and it's like I like to I like to mess with chickens. Yeah, I know that's bad to be a good thing.
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+[20:09] Badaroo something. Anyway, caller, you're on the air. Hello. Hi, I'm Chris from the uh UK. Hey, how you doing?
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+[20:17] Good thanks. Yeah, doing all right. All right. Good. Uh I have a question on egg free custards and egg free meringues as in Ilflaton.
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+[20:26] Right. How would you best go around it? Hmm. Well, uh uh okay, so for a meringue like texture, you're gonna want to use uh you basically you just need something that's gonna be a whipping agent, it's gonna hold, right? So you so you can use um a protein that acts in a similar way to egg whites, and so for that I I would use something like a VersaWhip, and you can get either one that's soy based or one that's uh casein based.
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+[20:53] I mean way based, rather, not casein, way-based. So uh and you know, those ones they they whip that when you're getting one of those things, the the issue is is that they sometimes take a long time to whip up and they don't cook off the same way. So they're not gonna hold their structure when they're done the way that uh a meringue will. But for uh like a very quick serve something, like if you just want that texture, uh, it'll work. Um a custard uh or on a meringue that's gonna hold.
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+[21:21] I mean, that the the the issue is if you're wanting to go egg-free, presumably it's to go vegan. So I can't recommend something like a gelatin or some other set. You could it's not the vegan that's the problem, it's an egg allergy. Ah, okay. Well, I mean, you could then set if you were going to whip something with a Versa whip, you can then set it with gelatin so that it holds after it chills down, and then you could have something that holds up over time.
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+[21:43] Or you could use an alternative if you did want to go vegan, you could use an alternative hydrocolloid that would hold the meringue over time, and then what you're just doing is using the VersaWhip as a uh whipping aid, uh you know, as a as a you know, foaming agent. So you then you would you would have a meringue to hold over time. If you wanted to do something that was going to be heat uh stable, like if you were gonna cook off a meringue in a in a in an oven, then you'd have to probably go a little more uh hardcore because you'd need a hydrocolloid that could withstand um uh heat. And so for then you you might be able to move to something like an agar, uh, but you'd have to make sure that it whips up before it cools down. Or if you're or if you want really heat stable, because agar will melt, you'd have to go with a gel an, but you'd have a real problem.
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+[22:26] I've tried doing it, whipping up gel-ans, um whipping up gel-an uh gels, uh you know, so that they're stable before they set. Another alternative to whipping to setting a gel uh in a foam is to use a slow setting um sodium alginate uh foam. I don't like to do it, I've done it. The problem is is that I don't think sodium alginate tastes very good, right? So, what you would do is you would use a whipping agent and uh sodium alginate, and then you'd whip it into a foam, and then you'd add a little calcium at the last second, and then it it would, you know, uh it would set into a foamed gel.
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+[22:59] You know what I mean? And and that and that one, uh I've done it. Uh you have to be careful to not be able to taste the alginate, right? Uh the other for the custard, um I I'd have to do uh I'd have to do some research. I've never thought of uh of eggless custards.
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+[23:18] I mean, the way that I would the you know, off the top of my head, right, you can without egg set things into custard like textures using something like iota carrageenin, especially in the presence of milk, very small amounts of iota caraginin will produce uh kind of a custardy texture. The problem is iota is a little elastic, so you want to have it just set, and so you would use iota and maybe a little bit of kappa carragaenin to make it into uh have a little more of a break to it as opposed to iota, which is gonna be a little more rubbery. But I've had, you know, Wiley's done uh both pectin-based sets and um iota slash kappa caragenin mix based sets of custards that I've thought were uh very very good, you know, almost like a panicata texture. You know what I'm saying? Uh and yeah, and th those can be totally achieved with uh various uh hydrocholores, but I would stick with something kind of simple like carrageen is relatively simple to work with.
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+[24:10] And um mixtures of i the great thing about iota is also that uh it'll reset uh after it after it breaks a little bit, but uh a mixture of mainly iota at a very low concentration and um and a little bit of kappa will give you a nice uh custardy uh texture. Not you know, you you'd have to adjust the firmness a little bit, you know what I mean? But you could get there. And those are all available, I would assume, from the uh the modernist pantry folk. Probably I I I don't know.
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+[24:36] And then if you needed some thickening of it, right? If if if it didn't feel thick enough with whatever ingredients you were adding, I would thicken it with a s I wouldn't try to thicken it with the you know where it's like inc increase the creaminess of it with uh the iota and the kappa, then you would move to more of a thickening agent, something like an LBG or locust bean, or just a traditional something make it thicker, like add more of something that's uncuous to it. You know, you don't need to go to hydrocholid route on that. But that's that's the way I'd uh approach it. Okay, thank you.
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+[25:03] All right, have uh and uh let us know how it works. Thank you. We'll do. All right, thanks a lot. All right.
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+[25:08] So uh Paul K uh wrote in on meat cooking whole mussels. Hi, Dave. I was at an event a while ago where I saw a steak, I think an entre coat being prepared on a barbecue, by which I think he means grill. I think he means grill, like as far as our our terms. Anyway, uh in a way I'd never seen before.
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+[25:23] Rather than cutting the steaks and then cooking them, an entire cylinder of beef was uh barbecued, rested out, and only then cut. It seems it was incredibly efficient, as the result was very beautiful. Every steak had a perfect gradient from crusty on the lateral edge uh to a disc that was essentially raw in the center. Normally you only see the sort of gradient once you cut into the steak. One, is this technique well known and if so does it have a name?
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+[25:42] Two, what cuts of beef would you recommend for this techniques? And three, do you have any tips on how to make this work well? When cooking four kilograms of beef at a time, I can imagine that cock-ups can be expensive. Cock ups is a good way to say mess ups. I like that because it's kind of almost dirty, but not.
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+[25:56] Uh I guess that it'll be critical to start with beef at room temperature. Thanks, Paul. Okay. Uh now when you're when you're uh dealing with I mean it's uh I mean essentially what they're doing is roasting the meat on a grill. Right?
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+[26:07] It's basically roast meat. Think about like prime rib. Prime rib is delicious that way. So basically, what you're not basically, what you're doing here is using the grill to to instead uh roast something. And I I think the the most um similar idea would be like a rotisserie where you pull off something that's rare.
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+[26:26] You know, I mean before before it's cooked all the way through, because then it would just be done manually. I would assume that these people who are using the grill were constantly turning the meat, and it's fundamentally different from a long when most people say barbecue, what they're referring to is long, long, long-term cooking, where the meat's took cooked totally all the way through right on a grill versus just straight grilling where the meat can be pulled off at any dunness, including rare in the middle, and you're just getting a nice crust on the outside. When you're doing it, you could use something that would one would normally barbecue with, right? I.e. a lower temperature, but just do it less long, in which case you're treating it more like a roast.
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+[27:03] But you'd need to get the temperature high enough to get a crusty uh finish on the outside. Does that make sense, Nastasha? But I'm I'm not exactly sure what you mean. So you write back in, tell me more about it, kind of exactly kind of what's going on and where it falls in the continuum between grilling and barbecuing, or whether or not I have the right idea about uh what you're what you're referring to. Because I'm not exactly sure what you're referring to, so I don't want to you know go the wrong way, right, Stas?
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+[27:26] Yes. She's like, I don't really care, whatever. Uh okay. Uh Aaron Lawton writes in from Portland, Maine on chili oil and botulism. All inclusive greetings.
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+[27:35] I like that. Doesn't want to, you know, doesn't want to make any statements on who may or may not be here. Just the all-inclusive greetings. Everyone but Jack it says, actually. Anyway.
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+[27:45] Uh it doesn't really. Uh I listen to your show every week via iTunes and appreciate the distraction it serves. Uh distraction. It's good. Uh I have long stewed over questions about chili oil.
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+[27:54] My wife underwent a heart transplant a couple of years ago, and food safety is a preeminent concern in our cooking. Hey, my mom runs the heart transplant program, pediatric heart transplant program at uh Columbia Presbyterian. My mom, you know, hardcore badass, she's the cardiologist there. So uh, you know, uh heart transplant uh patients close to my close to my well- I wasn't even thinking about that. That's dumb.
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+[28:16] Anyway, uh uh, you know, anyway. I think it's something I think about. Um food, which recently uh frequently calls for chili oil. I would like to make the oil myself due to my cheapness. Something we also share.
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+[28:30] Cheapness. Cheapness. Uh all of us here are really cheap bastards, right, Stuy? Yeah. Yeah, really cheap, really cheap.
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+[28:36] She'll walk to the airport rather than take a car, even if I'm paying for it. Uh however, I've been overcome with fears of botulism. We are both in our twenties and have years of cooking eating ahead of us. Can you allay my fears of contamination and provide advice on botulum-free chili oils? Uh the chili oil I tried came from Land of Plenty by Fuchsia Dunlap.
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+[28:54] By the way, Fuchsia Dunlap, good friend Harold McGee was showing around China. Apparently, Fuchsia Dunlap, badass. That's what I hear. Although I don't own her book. Uh which only used heated peanut oil and dried pepper flakes with optional ginger.
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+[29:05] Uh Barbara Tropp also has a recipe which adds orange zest and garlic, uh, Chinese black beans and sesame oil. Uh okay. So look, the danger here is with the garlic. Uh the the problem with with botulism in oil is this. Uh if you add something like a fresh herb or garlic, and garlic grows in the ground and frequently has uh contam botulism contamination in it.
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+[29:25] Uh when you're cooking the uh even if you cook the garlic off in the oil, enough water remains in the garlic to um uh allow botulism to grow in it, right? And uh when you have uh botulism in uh oil, uh in there's no off taste, there's there's no nothing. So what happens is even if you heat the garlic, um, you let it cool, you store it not in the fridge, and the botulism spores, because you've killed all the vegetative bacteria, the bacteria that are actively operating, the spores regerminate and create botulism toxin, which then it's very bad. Very bad, bad. Uh so how do you get around this?
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+[29:59] If you don't use the garlic, you're fine, right? Also, if you remove the garlic from the oil and there's only completely dried items in the oil when you're done, like dried pepper flakes, as long as you haven't reconstituted them with water, uh, then you should be okay. But if it makes you nervous, store in the fridge every uh, you know, store in the fridge, and if it gets more than a couple weeks old, you can reheat the oil to 80 degrees Celsius for 10 to 15 minutes or 20 minutes for a meat product. And botulism toxin is heat labile, uh i.e. it's it's destroyed by heat.
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+[30:36] So if you heat uh the oil uh enough times, right, or high enough, you can actually destroy the botulism toxin that is already present. So the rules are uh store in the fridge. Uh if you store for a long time, um you can reheat. If you if when in doubt, throw it out. Uh also if you use only dry products, uh you're in a much better uh position.
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+[31:00] And thirdly, if you add some acid to the ingredients that you're uh cooking that have water in them, the acid, citric acid, if you don't use ascorbic because ascorbic will get destroyed by the heat as well. Uh use citric acid if it's acidic enough, the product won't support uh the growth of botulism. So low water, uh low uh you know, high heats, all these things will help protect. Does that make sense to us? Yes.
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+[31:22] Okay. All right. Caller, you are on the air. Hi guys, Ben from Minnesota here. How are you doing?
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+[31:28] Thanks for taking my call. Uh question about bagels and pretzels and um the Y solution that I might be dipping them in. Okay. Um I know you had kind of a nasty experience with lye and want to avoid that myself. I I would avoid it.
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+[31:46] I would avoid that experience. I would yeah. I was reading a paper, it looks like a lab experien uh experiment assignment possibly from Ohio State pretzel study, it's called. If you look that up, you might find it on the net. Uh and they're using a two percent, which I assume is just is that 100% household lie if I buy that at the hardware store, is that what I'm using?
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+[32:11] Okay, uh uh uh we'll get it we'll we'll get into the hardware store. It is I mean look, if you go to the hardware store, 99% of uh the stuff that you buy, unless you're buying something that's packaged as lye. Uh it's packaged as 100% household lie. There's no other ingredients listed, but I'm you know, I'm wondering if there's a you know food grade lie that's made and where I would even get that. There is a food grade lie that's made.
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+[32:38] You can get it at professional baker supplies. Um okay, now that that being said, I have used the hardware store stuff. But I I I can't recommend it because uh uh I I believe it's possible for it to have a heavy metal contamination and stuff like that. So I I I don't recommend using it. I recommend getting the food grade stuff from the um uh you know, from a uh a professional baker supply.
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+[33:04] Really don't use um like some people have asked me, can I just go use drain cleaner? No. Uh first of all, there's like all kinds of weird stuff added to drain cleaner. Um just you know, stay away from it, like aluminum flakes and all sorts of nasty weird stuff. Um so you know, look, if you want to run a couple of experiments with lye, then you know, if you get the 100% lye, I wouldn't you I would I I can't recommend that you use it.
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+[33:28] I would recommend you get the food grade stuff, but as an experiment to see what happens, it works. Um do you have kids in the house? I do. That's why it's uh high in the garage, tied up real tight, you know. Yeah, but you know, uh when I uh, you know, for those of you I don't know, I was doing a lot of experiments with uh lye and uh different bases, especially with in things like pretzels, but also for nyxtamalization and for the hardening of uh you know a lot of experiments.
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+[33:56] Right. Well that was another route I could go. I've got uh some Mexican markets around. Is that something that would be sold there and as what, you know? Well they they have cal they have calcium uh yeah, they they have uh cal, which is, you know, um which is calcium hydroxide, but it's just not the it's not the same and it has a different taste.
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+[34:11] Uh you you could use it. Anything basic is gonna you know, or you could go the route that uh McGee does where he cooks baking soda uh to convert it to you know the more basic uh form um and and and then use that. Lye is great for it. I mean I have to say, lye works great. Um and for those of you that you know pay we if you have a bagel, actually you can just boil, it doesn't need the extra browning.
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+[34:35] It'll taste more like a pretzel if you add the lye. So most I mean some some b bagel recipes I've seen have some baking soda in the boiling water and some don't. Um but you know, unless you need the extra browning and that little uh taste that um that you get from the the basicity, uh then um you know you you don't need it. But the main water. Yeah, but the main flavor that you're getting in a pretzel from the boil out, first of all, you get that dark brown pretzel note, because when you increase the uh the alkalinity of the of the surface, you increase the rate at which the myard reactions happen.
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+[35:08] You get that characteristic brown pretzel color. But also the characteristic flavor of a pretzel is uh having to do with that basic, that basic outside that so when you crunch into a pretzel, if you in your mind think uh kind of it I I don't want to hesitate to even say this because it makes it sound bad, but soapiness, you know what I mean? It's like but it's that flavor of uh basicness that is um what makes a pretzel great. Uh and so that in the addition in addition to never adding fat to people who add uh you know, if you add fat to your pretzel, I have a problem with you in your pretzels. You know me, so like for instance, rolled gold.
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+[35:45] Yeah, to the dough itself. I mean it's no it's an abomination. It turns into a cracker, it's horrible. You know what I mean? Uh it's it's really makes me angry.
+
+[35:52] And I could if you hand me a pretzel, uh, and certain manufacturers who make so my first rule is pretzels are twisted. They have to be twisted. If it's not twisted, it's not a pretzel. I call them pretzelloids or like you know, non-pretz, but pretzel style things, right? But they're not freaking pretzels because uh for me, one of the great joys of pretzels is the textural difference between the different parts that bake differently uh because of the shape and break apart in your mouth differently because of the shape.
+
+[36:16] All right, boom. So that's it. That's it. Pretzel is pretzel shaped. Uh secondly, uh it and I I'm talking mainly about hard pretzels now.
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+[36:24] I don't have that much experience with this with soft pretzels. I'm I'm talking hard pretzels. Hard pretzels, if if you add any oil to the uh recipe at all in the in the dough, it takes on a cracker texture, it's not a pretzel anymore. It's like a crack, it's like a cracker sole or something. It's not right.
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+[36:40] You know, at Bachman, the company, they make a pretzel that you would looks like a real hard pretzel, but is in fact uh got a crackery texture because they you know they I guess they took a hint from rolled gold, you know, or something like that, who adds an abomination like amount of oil to their thing. Best pretzel that I've ever had in my whole life is Martin Bru Martin's brother's uh pretzels by far the best pretzels that you can get them over the mail order they're made by Mennonites they literally sit around singing hymns all day and making pretzels but they're the I mean not but but but you know probably because of the fact that they it's a religio religious meditation thing for them they make fantastic pretzels you ever had those things I have not no I uh the kind I was thinking of making are more like the you know like the ballpark big software chewy yeah yeah large big chunks of salt in the top you know yeah though I mean those are you know those are those are those are a valid product I'm not saying anything against uh a so a good soft pretzel I love a good soft pretzel especially with mustard I gotta have mustard on mine no mustard no no soft pretzel for me no that's good too yeah I agree yeah so uh so yeah so uh for that also remember when you're going to the baking supply you can also get the pretzel salt which is very nice because it's uh it yeah because you can't get that at the regular store. No, but the same place it's gonna have the lie will probably also have the pretzel salt. Okay. All right thanks uh one quick one about blending mixed drinks I was uh I'm not a cocktail guy at all but I was making margaritas the other night they blended up just fine then I made a crystal light version for my kids with no alcohol obviously and it turned into like a slush ball in water.
+
+[38:10] Is the alcohol doing something to keep the ice and the water together that you can't get without just blend it wrong. Hmm I don't uh I I don't know. Um I mean alcohol is gonna melt the uh the ice in a different way and it's gonna make it blend kind of uh faster. But I mean, obviously, you know, people make uh people make slushies all the time that are non-alcoholic in the 711. Right.
+
+[38:37] Yeah. Smoothies work fine. Yeah. Maybe a fluke. Yeah, maybe a fluke.
+
+[38:42] I don't know. Maybe I don't know. I doubt there's anything in the crystal light. Crystal light is actually has very little body, and maybe that's the problem. Maybe if it had more sugar in it, you might have more problem with a sugar free because you're not modifying the uh I maybe that's it.
+
+[38:54] Maybe try it with uh something that's got a I could try it just with the regular uh lime juice and sugar up this time without be the fact that the crystal light has no sugar in it, and it could be that the crystal light has something in it to mimic sugar. Um sometimes it in in um things that contain uh whatever crystal light contains now, it used to be aspartame. Um because there's no bodying effect from um aspartame and it's used in such small quantities, they often to sodas would add bodying agents to add back some of the feeling like there had been sugar there. And I don't know, maybe that has something to do with it too. I don't know.
+
+[39:29] But yeah, but give it a shot with uh real honest to God sugar. I will. Alright, cool. All right, thanks. Love you, Phil.
+
+[39:35] Bye. Uh Jack, let's take one more quickie commercial break, come back, and finish out cookie dishes. In case you're wondering what's up with the weird meditation music, it's called Alone in Kyoto by Air. Oh nice. Well we're done with all that music.
+
+[40:29] Thank God I was not alone in Kyoto. I was hanging with my with my family. Had a fantastic time checking out all the temples. I highly recommend them. Okay.
+
+[40:36] Uh Tom Fisher writes in. Howdy, Dave, Nastasha. Nastasha. Who am I? An idiot?
+
+[40:41] Nastasha and Jack. Uh about finally. What? Said hi to me. Yeah.
+
+[40:46] Yeah. First first call, I think. Yeah. ISI about the ISI, which is the EC or ISI, the whipped cream uh makers. Is this the one?
+
+[40:53] Yeah. Okay. Uh I'm looking at ISI whippers and just grabbed a gourmet whip on eBay, but the head is filthy and needs new seals, etc. It looks like the gourmet whip and the thermo whip share the same head, while the cream whip profit has a different head. Is there any real difference among the models insofar as cooking applications are concerned?
+
+[41:10] Thanks for keeping it awesome, Tom Fisher. Okay, listen. Little secret. I have a bunch of different models, all different types, and all the heads are completely interchangeable. They look different, but they all fit.
+
+[41:19] They all have the same exact screw thread from the head onto the uh onto the um what do you call it? Canister. Mm-hmm. Yeah. So they all work.
+
+[41:27] And they all have the same exact through screw thread, uh, with one exception, and it's not one of the ones you mentioned, of screwing uh the cartridge, the thing that screws the cartridge in to make it go. They're all the they're all the freaking same. Now what can be different is the screw-ons, I think for the uh for the uh whatever the tip is called. I think that those might be different, but as far as interchanging canisters and they're all same, all same. Right?
+
+[41:50] Uh-huh. Same. Uh and I don't know if there's any real difference. I mean the thermo whip obviously is different because it keeps things warmer hot because it's uh uh col cold rather because it's insulated, but other than that, not much anyway. So it's all good.
+
+[42:01] Mix and match, but don't tell the good folks at ISI that I told you so. Matthew Leaf at Landhouse writes in. Hey Nastasha and Dave. Hope everything's going well with all your projects. Wednesday this week, I'm serving some snacks at a charity gala for 500 people.
+
+[42:12] The dish I'm serving is short rib sliders with cheddar cheese sauce. The cheddar cheese is a whiz I made using sodium citrate and Iota carrageen and based on Mirvold's mac and cheese salad. I'm thinking for large production like this, it would be cool to have the cheese sauce and squeeze bottles for service. And my idea is to keep the squeeze bottles in a steam table water bath set up. Do you think this would be hot enough to keep the cheese liquefied?
+
+[42:30] Would it be better to put the bottles directly into the water section of the steam table or to set up a hotel pan with water above the steam section? I was hoping to get your advice on this as I don't know if I'll have a chance to test it out prior to the event. Okay, yeah, it works. I've done it. Uh what the one problem you're gonna have is uh when I when I do uh water water table setups, I use an immersion circulator, which is very accurate at its temperature holding, and then I have a top and I custom cut holes into the top to fit whatever I'm gonna have my inserts be.
+
+[42:55] And I've done cheese sauce many, many times. What you're gonna want to make sure is that uh wherever you're putting your bottles, you have like some sort of a cage so that the bottles don't fly around in there. They'll automatically find their own level of cheese sauce and they'll float in the top of the thing, but you have to contain them so that they don't just fly around the bath and turn upside down and then leak water into the top of your cheese spout. Does that make sense? Mm-hmm.
+
+[43:16] You don't want water in your cheese spout. Gross. What does it doesn't even have meaning? I like that. You're like, it does sound really gross though, doesn't it?
+
+[43:24] Yeah, yeah. Uh Michael Natkin, good friend Michael Natkin. Listener, rather. We never met him. We never actually met him in the real life.
+
+[43:32] No, not yet. No, but he's like a blog friend. Or, you know, whatever, whatever you call it. From Herbivoracious, writes in about smoking. Hey David Nastasha, no Jack.
+
+[43:39] No love for you, Jack. Even though you called him to get him on a show. Yikes. Nah, crazy. Uh I've got a question for you about stovetox too stove top smoking.
+
+[43:47] I generally just jury reach something with wood chips in a pot. I don't mind beating up. Usually hiskory hickory or mesquite. I know for modernist cuisine not to soak the chips, uh, because the temperature. The modernist cuisine says the lower temperature is actually not conducive for better smoke flavor, etc.
+
+[44:00] I'll let it rip over high heat until there's quite heavy smoke, then put a steamer basket in there with a single single layer of whatever I want to smoke, onions, tofus, mushrooms, etc., and go for 10 minutes or so. I found there's a nice smoky flavor, but also a bit of sourness that I don't love as much. It is fine, amazing actually, in dishes like uh the Frijolis charo charos, which you can see on their aberration's website. But the sourness is less appreciated in other contexts. Can you give me any clues as what's causing it and how to minimize it, thanks, Michael?
+
+[44:26] Okay. There's a couple of things that can happen when you break down wood, uh, there's uh basically acetic acid and other things that are uh created called pyroliginous acids, but I don't know if that's what what you're talking about. If you look at uh a good website to a good website, a good article to look at is contribution of phenolic compounds to smoke flavor by MAGA in 1992. Uh and this, you know, it's awesome because it's one of those, you know, it's it's still done on a typewriter, so the fonts and courier, even on the web, it's like the crappy old courier font that you got in technical documents, which Nastash is too young to have looked at. Not that she looks at the technical technical documents now, she doesn't give a crap about it.
+
+[44:59] So, it turns out that uh the stuff that's formed at really low temperatures, right, is acrid and bitter, right? Which is why they tell you not to soak the chips. Uh the stuff formed in the middle zone, uh up to about 750 degrees uh C is kind of the heart of the smoking flavor. And things that are formed above that temperature are uh with higher boiling points, phenolic things with higher boiling points, can taste uh acidic. So here I'll read I'll read from that article.
+
+[45:25] Um uh phenol compound volatility is also a factor relative to smoke flavor contribution. The low uh boiling phenolic portion obtained from distillation of smoke was found to have primarily contained phenol creosols and guacols described as hot and bitter taste. The fraction distilled at 92 to 132 C contained isousinols and syringeols. Those are the ones formed in the middle when much hotter, but they're formed uh in that middle range. Had a pure characteristic smoke flavor, and the high boiling stuff had an acid chemical sensory property.
+
+[45:52] Now, how do I recommend getting rid of first of all? Also, what's formed there's a lot of different things. There's the temperature of your of your the smoke makes a huge difference with the smok at which it's formed. Also, the amount of oxygen in the in this in the uh in the atmosphere where the smoke has a huge uh um impact on the flavor. Also, the moisture in your food, everything makes a difference.
+
+[46:11] The temperature of the food, everything makes a difference. But I I have a feeling this might help you. If you put uh two steamer baskets, a deep one and a tall one. In the bottom one, put a layer of ice, and then your food in a top one, uh it's gonna make a colder smoke, and I think you might get some of those um higher uh boiling compounds to condense onto the ice, those acid things, those acid sour taste things, and you might get a cleaner uh tasting product. That's how we used to do salmon.
+
+[46:37] Uh Nils used to do it that way. We were smoking large amounts of things. We would have a tray with ice, and then on top of that, another perf tray with our food, and we would put that over large hotel pans with burning wood in them. And those things never uh came out with any of those kind of off-flavors. So I would give that uh a shot, and uh barring that, maybe the temperature is a little bit too high, turn the temperature down a little bit.
+
+[46:57] Don't let it rip so hard on the on the smoke. You want to hit more of a middle zone. Make sense, Saz? Yeah. Sound good?
+
+[47:03] But please let us know how that works. We got any more time here, Jack? Or we oh shafted. Yeah, that's about it. All right, listen, Elliot Papineau wrote in uh he doesn't boil his pretzels.
+
+[47:12] Go boil your pretzels, boil your pretzels, do it side by side on boiled pretzels with uh um, you know, with some sort of basic thing versus not. Uh yeah, because I've done that test uh many, many times, and it makes a big difference. We still didn't get to Rob Trepas's cheese question. We did answer a bunch of his questions, but the thing is I need a lot of time to talk about the cheese because I've been thinking a lot about uh cheese and cheese analogs. In fact, Chris Anderson from Modernist Cuisine uh is gonna modernist pantry is gonna try to get uh me the rennet casing, which is what you use to make completely cheeseless, cheese-based, um, cheese-based things.
+
+[47:44] Uh, and we had a you know a qu a I'm gonna answer one real quick. No, Dave. I can't you can't. I can't. I gotta go do the egg whites next week and the uh and the and the meat analogs.
+
+[47:54] Anyway, this has been Cooking Issues. We're back. We'll see you next week. Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows.
+
+[48:12] You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:02] Broadcasting live from Roberta's in Bushwick, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. Today's show is brought to you by Hearst Ranch grass fed beef. Available on the internet at HurstRanch.com. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:29] This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from a Bertus Burz that we are in Bubba Ba Bubba Bushwick on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from roughly 12 to roughly 1245. Nastasha the Hammer Lopez not with us today. Not with us. She is uh flying home as we speak. Her plane is being battered about in the turbulence over the Atlantic Ocean.
+
+[0:46] She took her little sister to Switzerland over the weekend. Hmm, Switzerland, huh? You like that, Jack? Nice. Nice, nice.
+
+[0:54] Anyway, call any questions, uh, cooking, non tech tech, anything, really any question. We'll take any question, right, Jack? To uh 718 497 2128. That's 718 497 2128. Now, uh, we don't have anyone yet, Red.
+
+[1:07] We had somebody call in uh when you weren't here, but hopefully he'll call us back in a few minutes. Because I said in the Twitter I said 1205. Because I knew I was late. Wow. I made it at 12.05.
+
+[1:16] I was here at 1205. Here, you know, okay, that's late. It's unacceptable. I realize that. However, I'm slightly proud of myself.
+
+[1:23] I made a a Dave Arnold fat lazy out of shape world record for biking from my apartment in the lower east side to uh Bushwick. 15 minutes flat. Yeah. Seems like the studio is impressed. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[1:39] Almost died. Uh didn't almost kill anyone, though. That's my main thing. It's like, you know, me, my safety, not as important as not endangering the safety of pedestrians around me. Okay, uh, so I have a bunch of questions from last week.
+
+[1:49] I have some Twitter questions coming in. You can uh unfortunately, since Nastasha's here, uh I can't really check the Twitter during the show, but uh we're at cooking issues. That's how you tweet us or whatever the hell you call it, uh whatever you kids call it. At Heritage Radio, and we can get it. Heritage underscore radio.
+
+[2:04] Does that work? Does that happen? That works, that happens. Nice. Okay.
+
+[2:08] Okay, so from a couple weeks ago, uh Rob Trapaz uh wrote in about processed cheese. Uh I want to make a cheese sauce using melting salts, which we'll talk about in a minute. Uh if I'm out of breath, it's because I'm out of shape, by the way. If you hear like a it's me trying to catch my breath. Anyway, I see in Modernist Cuisine uh they use whey protein concentrate.
+
+[2:26] Uh now, for those of you that don't know, Modernist Cuisine, we've talked about it. We've had uh all three authors, right, on the show? All three? Yes, we have. Uh not in studio, but we've had them all.
+
+[2:38] Two of them in studio. Two of them in studio, right? Nathan hasn't been in the studio yet. He should sometime. Yeah, next time he's in New York, let's uh twist his uh his arm, get him in.
+
+[2:45] Anyway. Um, you know, whatever. Most ambitious, uh biggest cookbook undertaking all time, I'd have to say. Probably all time. It kind of uh rivals back when uh, you know, the Pope used to, you know, uh have someone make the cistine chapel, and just didn't matter how much it costs or how much time it took, that kind of thing, only with a cookbook.
+
+[3:04] Anyway, uh so uh he has uh the the recipe they're talking about, there's a uh a cheese sauce. I think there's several cheese sauces in the modernist cuisine where they are basically using the techniques of processed cheese making to make better tasting higher-end things. Anyway, uh so Rob writes in, I have sodium citrate and whey protein isolate. My understanding is that the whey protein concentrate has uh the lactate sugars and the isolate has the sugars removed. What function does the concentrate have in this recipe?
+
+[3:32] And can I substitute, uh, isolate or simply leave it out? Uh other recipes call for Joha S D SDS2 sodium phosphate. What is it? What does it do? Where do you get it, etc., etc.?
+
+[3:41] Okay, look. I did a lot of research on processed cheese over the past couple weeks. It's a subject I haven't researched in a while, but uh I find it extremely interesting. Um Wiley Dufrein, by the way, my brother-in-law, chef of WD-50, loves himself some American cheese. Were you aware of that?
+
+[3:57] Did you know that? Loves American cheese and eggs. And he's not afraid to admit it. I'm not uh like letting the cat out of the bag like uh like I do with Nastasha, he will freely admit it. Um, take a sip of water, hold on.
+
+[4:07] And breathing. Breath. Okay. The way you make a processed cheese is you take cheeses and you add what's called a melting salt to them. And the melting salt is uh also called an emulsifying salt.
+
+[4:20] And unlike a normal emulsifier, which has one part of a molecule that loves fat and another part of a molecule of the molecule that loves water, and thereby makes it easier for water and fat to live together. That's what an emulsifier does, or air and water, or air and fat, etc. etc. Anyway, uh it's not really like that. What it is is uh it's uh sodium citrate is one, polyphosphates are another, and what they do is they actually make it easier for the they unbind the casein.
+
+[4:49] So there's casein, which is the protein in uh in milk solids, uh, that causes cheese to bind together to coagulate. Uh and it basically resolubilizes the casein and allows the casein to become an emulsifier. So these emulsifying salts, these melting salts, uh, modify the casein and make it easier for it to be runny and spreadable and meltable, all that great stuff. Now, you might be surprised to note that uh older cheeses, the ones that you typically would assume don't melt very well, uh, actually need the least amount of emulsifying salts in them because uh their proteins are most broken down. It's actually young cheeses, the ones that you think would melt very easily, that in fact are very difficult to make a very smooth melted processed cheese out of.
+
+[5:37] Uh, and that's why uh to go back, uh Jack, are you familiar with fondue? What's that? Are you familiar with fondue? I am. Do you know what the cheese of choice for fondue is?
+
+[5:47] I don't. A Gruyere. Is it? Yeah. Why?
+
+[5:50] Well, grier is an aged cheese, right? So even though it's very high fat, and high fat cheeses uh melt very easily, also uh it's very aged, and so the proteins are break it up broken down more than they would be in a very young cheese. And hence, even though it's an aged cheese, it melts extremely well and makes a fondue. Do you know what else uh you add to fondue, Jack? No.
+
+[6:09] White wine. You know why? I don't. Ah, because it's uh the tartrate in uh from tartaric acid in wine that provides the natural emulsifying salt to make fondue super creamy and delicious. That's why.
+
+[6:24] Wow, I can sit here all day and say I don't know to most things you say. Well, you know, um well we'll do a different show where it's all stuff it stumps me. Yeah, exactly. Uh anyway, but the um but what's funny is is that actually the Swiss were the first people to have a patent on processed cheese, and one of the uh one of the ideas of why is because they or were used to using wine in their famous melted cheese fondue, and so they came up with processed cheese first. Something that's typically blamed on Americans, but in fact is a Swiss invention.
+
+[6:56] So uh whey, you can add whey to processed cheese in a number of different ways for different reasons. Uh depending on how much you add, it can have different effects. Whey is typically used as a water binder, and so it could probably hold water in when you're melting uh your cheese down. Um it's unclear to me because I don't have the recipe in front of me, and I know I don't own the Modernus Cuisine Cookbook yet, so I couldn't look it up. Um but uh it's probably there as a water binder and also to affect the meltability.
+
+[7:25] Uh little bits added of whey protein tend to uh increase the meltability of a cheese, and more additions tend to decrease the meltability of the cheese and also decrease the flavor because whey protein uh fairly neutral in uh taste. Now, as for that SDS said uh Joha stuff, that is just a different kind of emulsifying salt. Uh the one you're using, sodium citrate, was the first one that was used. Uh it tends to not be so great uh for um long-term usage, and it doesn't promote meltability as some of the phosphate salts do, but it's good to have around because it modifies uh the pH. So sodium citrate is gonna make things uh it's a buffer, but I think we'll make things slightly more acidic, whereas some of the phosphate salts are slightly more basic.
+
+[8:08] And the pH of the cheese when you're done is uh fairly important to the texture. Usually you want to be uh right around five, five point one, my memory serves me, uh, on the pH of melted cheese to get them right. Um I'm super interested uh in processed cheese. I saw an article where someone was making uh something that had the flavor of ketchup, but the meltability of cheese using a product I've tried to use once but had no success with called rennet casein. Uh basically completely constructed cheese analog with a different uh flavor.
+
+[8:38] Um Modernus Pantry is trying to get it, and when Chris Anderson gets it, uh I'll get it and uh play around with it. But it reminds me of an experiment I did years ago uh trying to make ketchup chocolate, which is texture of chocolate, flavor of ketchup. Um anyway, so with that, why don't we take a commercial break? I'll catch my breath and call your questions to 718497 2128. That's 718497 2128 cooking issues.
+
+[10:07] Pasture raised on a hundred and fifty thousand acres in central California. Sustainably produced, humane. And welcome back to cooking issues. So uh Jack, we're gonna do a giveaway today, true or false? True.
+
+[10:41] Okay. So our good friends at the Heritage Meat Shop, which is at the Essex Street Market in New York City on Essex and Delancey, are offering a free pork shop to uh the first listener that answers the trivia question you pose to them. Okay, here's the trivia question. So the last question I'm gonna answer from a reader uh is from Carrie Camill, and uh Carrie writes in asking about egg substitutes and cocktail in cocktails, and the first person who can call in with the name of a Colombian fruit that produces a frothy head on the top of a cocktail similar to an egg white without adding any sort of uh egg or other protein based stuff wins the pork chop. Well they can they can either call in, they can info at email well they can email us at info at heritage radio network.org.
+
+[11:32] They can tweet us at heritage underscore radio or call into the show. So lots of options. Yeah, come to New York. Or if you're you know, here's what you can do also. If you happen to live somewhere else, we'll hold it for you.
+
+[11:48] They're not gonna go out of business and not gonna go anywhere, and next time in New York, come get the pork chop. All right. Right? True or false. Uh probably, yeah.
+
+[11:55] Yeah, sure. Pork shops will be around. Yeah, they'll be around. Everyone people aren't gonna all of a sudden stop liking pork chops. I don't think so.
+
+[12:02] No, it's not gonna happen. Um, okay. So what that means, Carrie, if you're listening, is that your question is going to be last. But uh we do have callers on the line. All right, caller, you're on the air.
+
+[12:14] Hello. Hi. Hi, um I'm calling from Hearth Australia. Oh, nice. Um, I was just wondering.
+
+[12:23] Um I do at work I do uh sousheed lamb rum. And probably one out of ten come out really mushy after I uh reheat them. Uh so I cook them at sixty for an hour and forty, um and then chill and then reheat at fifty-four. And um after the vin it's been in the bath for about fifteen minutes, about one in ten come come out really mushy. I was wondering if you could uh help me troubleshoot that.
+
+[12:49] That's really odd. All the same muscle, the same exact muscle. Yeah, so it's all it's all the rump and it's just uh cleaned and um just been marinated in like olive oil, thyme, garlic, rosemary for a couple of days and then we roll it into a cylinder and then um yeah, cook it and then chill it and then reheat. And yeah, probably one in ten come out just like mushy as hell, like as if it's been cooked at like seventy-eight and you want to flake it but it's still like pink as. Huh.
+
+[13:16] Wait, well it's it's so when I think of mushy normally, uh in low temperature meats um that haven't been overcooked, right? I typically think of kind of a fibery pasty kind of a feel, uh similar to Yeah, so if you like it and for those of you that haven't done a lot of low temperature work, it's difficult to describe because you haven't overcooked it and the juice is still there, but it just turns to a massive fibers in your mouth when you chew it. Uh and yeah, that's it. Yeah, and if you know if and if any of you want to replicate this uh at home, buy a uh filet mignon uh piece, uh tenderloin and cook it at fifty-four four for like five hours, and then even though it's still rare, it's horrible. Uh and it's because it's gone mushy and typically and you s what's the maximum time it's spent in the in the bath?
+
+[14:03] Uh hour and forty. Yeah. Uh how big around is the roll? Uh probably one and a half inches. Okay.
+
+[14:12] So I would cook it at at what temperature? 60. Six sixty? Uh so one forty for all your Fahrenheit heads. Um so here's what I would say.
+
+[14:23] Um if you're dealing with uh meats that don't have a lot of connective tissue in them, typically um cooking any longer than the point of doneness is going to uh reduce the reduce the the the amount you're gonna like the texture of the meat. So that's why on a duck breast, for instance, I only cook a duck breast for 45 minutes because um if you cook it for longer, it may not adversely affect the texture, but sometimes it gets some of that mushiness that you have. Um if I'm doing fillet, I tend not to cook fillet low temp, but if I'm gonna do fillet low temp, um I'll cook it for like 45 minutes, even though it doesn't pasteurize it technically. Uh although some of the new programs out like the Sous Vash and the one that PolyScience had worked on, they'll write programs for surface pasteurization if you're not worried about the inside. But since you're since you've actually rolled it, you kind of do need to get all the way to the inside uh of it and kill it.
+
+[15:21] Is that why you're doing that length of time? Although you shouldn't need to cook it that long at that high to uh pasteurize it. Well uh Yeah, we're doing uh uh loin at 62 for uh an hour and twenty. So we just because we lowered the temperature when we changed to rump, we upped the time just a little bit as well. Still the thickness is still the same, so we just wanted to up it just because we'll it was in that for longer at lower?
+
+[15:44] Right. I I I would um I I I would try to decrease the time. It might be the time doing it. Um did you notice that the mushier ones had less uh kind of connective tissue or less inherent structure in them than the ones that weren't mushy? Was there any visual difference between them?
+
+[16:02] Not really. They were all pretty identical in um I mean like even the size it like didn't really matter like how thick or thin they were because obviously they're not all identical. Um even the you know, the small line, the bigger ones still had the same outcome didn't really didn't really matter on that. Right. I mean it could also I mean it's possible that the different cuts of meat have different pHs and that could be affecting it as well.
+
+[16:23] Like uh I know there's certain you know, certain uh pork cuts here we have called P S E pale soft and exudative, um and yep and uh we also have dark cutting meat on the other end of the spectrum, other end of the pH spectrum, and so it could be that you're having slight differences there that are affecting the water binding ability of the meat and that that could be affecting the texture, but I would see if cutting your time down something that's um something that's uh an inch and a half across should not take uh more than uh an hour max. So see if you cut down to an hour whether or not your problem goes away, and if not, we're gonna have to look at something like the actual differences between the individual cuts of meat. Right. You know? 'Cause it could be that you're just right on the edge.
+
+[17:06] Yeah, no worries. Yeah. But but plea I would please um you know, if you if you can't I don't know if like how much it costs to call, but if you can't uh call back, please just let me know what happens one way or the other because it helps me when I have to suggest things to people in the future. Just let us know uh whether or not that helped out. Also, is it true that in uh in the south of Australia people bike on the sidewalk everywhere?
+
+[17:27] Say what? Is it true that people in Australia bike on the sidewalks? I was told this by someone on the Twitter 'cause I was uh some sometimes, mostly on the road though. Yeah, that makes sense. On the road.
+
+[17:37] I was in Japan and people were biking on the sidewalk constantly. I was in constant danger of getting mowed down by people on the sidewalk. I'm glad to see that in Australia, most people ride on the roads. Roads. Roads and roads.
+
+[17:47] Yeah, I I watched the uh the today tonight that you have um been ranting about as well. It's pretty horrible. Oh yeah. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[17:55] That thing's that's that show is that show is terrible. Is that thing still on the air? Coming from Australia. Is that still is that still on the air? They still have that show?
+
+[18:04] Yeah, it's it's the worst. I need to make it to Australia sometime. Not to rant about that, but to have some of the uh grape produce. I'm especially interested. I know it's not Australian, but I'm interested in the uh New Zealand's the Porn Orange.
+
+[18:16] You know the New Zealand grapefruit, the Purman orange? A fantastic it's a fantastic piece of citrus. The try to get a hold of it. I think they grow it in Australia as well, but uh I think the problem with it is it has to be really, really fresh, which is maybe why it's not shipped out here. Um I know Australia is huge, so just because you know it's from New Zealand doesn't mean it's close to you, but um you're not gonna have the import problems that we do.
+
+[18:37] So you should try to get a hold of it. Fantastic citrus, uh both to eat and for use in cocktails. I've only had it once or twice, but delicious. All right, I'll look it up. Thanks very much.
+
+[18:47] Uh thank you very much for your help. And bye-bye. We uh we have another caller. Uh and um we also, before we get to that caller, we have a um a William McGee asking if the fruit is narangilla. Ooh, no um, that I believe that's a passion fruit.
+
+[19:07] Um let me look it up. No, it's not the one I was thinking of. Okay. Let me let me look it up. It's not the one I was thinking of.
+
+[19:13] I might have to give it to him if I I'm gonna look it up during that one up during the uh next uh commercial break, and then we'll see whether or not uh that's the it's not the one I had in mind. But it may be work. All right, maybe we'll see. So we have another caller on the line. Caller, you're on the air.
+
+[19:28] Hey, this is Johnny Clark from Memphis, Tennessee. Hey Dave, how you doing? I'm right, how you doing? I'm doing pretty good. I have a suckling pig, uh 20 to 30 pounds that I've cut uh down the back and taking the sides off with the belly attached.
+
+[19:45] And I had some questions about cooking it soothing versus uh conventional um time and temperature wise. And I wanted uh, of course, uh nice crispy skin. Oh yeah. If you have any um any advice for me, that would be great. All right, here you go.
+
+[20:04] So, first of all, uh you have a uh you have a good problem how to cook a delicious product, right? Um by the way, uh Memphis, one of those towns I have not been to. Can you freaking believe that? Oh my god. I know it's ridiculous ridiculous.
+
+[20:19] It's one of the great, it's one of the great, obviously one of the great uh barbecue towns uh in the country uh and great for so many other things. Music, it's just it's uh it's a complete travesty that I haven't made it there yet. But um I will someday make it there. Uh now here's the issue with a suckling pig as opposed to uh uh a larger pig like a full size hog. I'm gonna go I'm gonna go out here and uh hopefully I don't uh anger anyone, but um in general for hogs, uh for whole hogs doesn't apply to suckling pigs.
+
+[20:49] I I don't think it's necessarily possible to do the best job cooking the thing whole. Here's why. Not every muscle in a hog wants to cook the uh same way. Do you know what I mean? So uh so uh and I don't know I don't know why his name popped out of my head, but the famous whole hog guy, uh uh Mitchell, uh Ed Mitchell, right?
+
+[21:08] Ed Ed Mitchell. Um, he likes to cook the the whole hog. When he does it, what he'll do is he'll like machete the whole hog up after he's done, get little bits of crunchy skin. Uh and the fact that certain pieces of muscle are kind of pasty and overcooked, specifically the muscles without connective tissue like the loin, it doesn't matter so much because that's covered up by the sauce and it's massed by the fact that there's all kinds of cuts in there that are good after they've been cooked for for a long period of time. Um but that said, a suckling pig's a little bit different because uh it doesn't require as long a cooking time as a whole hog does because nothing in a suckling pig takes as long to break down as something in a whole hog.
+
+[21:50] So it's possible, I think, to get uh something that's pretty delicious all the way through without having to break it down. And also there's more fat and stuff, even in the areas that are kind of low connective tissue in a younger, in a younger it's kind of distributed better. Does that make sense or no? Yeah, but what I've done is I've cut uh the uh front legs off and then cut down the loin and left the loin in the belly attached, and I was gonna roll it up. So it's just one muscle, the loins that we're talking about wrapped up and uh BRT style.
+
+[22:25] Right. Well, but the bellies, the belly's attached to the loin. No. Okay, good. So they'll cook the loin at like I would do I would do uh low temp like sous vide.
+
+[22:35] I would cook that loin for uh I'd go low. It depends on your on your on your um on your your guests slash customers or whatever, but I tend to go uh you there are people out there cooking uh pork as low as uh fifty seven, but that's rare, pink, real pink looking, and um you're gonna have some people that'll balk. You know what I mean? I you know I was thinking 50 gates, something like that. Anyway, yeah, yeah.
+
+[23:02] So but if you take it up to 60, it's still pretty juicy, and as long as you don't cook it too long. Um very very few uh fewer people will balk at uh at 60. Do you know what I'm saying? Um and it's still good. You might want to run a test.
+
+[23:18] I tend to do a lot of my pork at 60 just because it's actually still slightly pink, but what happens is when you do the finishing cook on it, especially if you pull it from hot and do the finishing on the outside, uh it tends to just be a little bit rosy in the very center, and people are okay with that typically. Um but yeah, they'll be okay with it. Yeah, and so uh uh m the pieces that have the skin on I tend to let cool off quite a bit um without unbagging it or taking it out of the fat or whatever I'm cooking it in, uh so that I can get a really long crisping time on the skin because I like to get the skin super super crispy and uh and crunchy, and I like to take a little bit of time doing it because I uh the especially with a torch, unless you have a really good torch, and by that I mean one that doesn't have any uh uncombusted gas hitting it. Um there's so much fat on the skin of a piece of uh pork that it can pick up some of that torch taste, and it's also difficult to not get scorch marks on it with a torch. If you have to use a torch to touch up pieces of the skin afterwards, it's gonna ruin your chinois.
+
+[24:23] But I recommend firing it or or if you have a piece of stainless steel mesh, fire your torch at the stainless steel piece of mesh and use that almost as a as a heating grill because uh um that like this the red hot mesh will combust the rest of the the nasty gas taste that you um would ordinarily get out of a propane torch. Alternatively, if you have a butane torch and a source of gas in it that doesn't have uh a lot of those uh you know those uh the the Mercaptins that they add to it to make it smell terrible so that you know if you have a leak, like some of the tobacco brands don't have a lot of taste to them, and then you don't have to worry about it so much. But I really prefer uh deep frying and or like uh shallow uh oil pan fry rendering of the skin just because it does a really good job and uh penetrates uh all the way through. If you need to render out some of the fat, I would do some of um although I don't think you will. I would do uh modernist cuisine's trick that they do with the duck breast, which is they buy a new dog brush, the kind with the bristles, and they hit it with the bristles to kind of uh allow the fat to render out.
+
+[25:27] But what I've done is I've taken some of the skin and I I submitted it for six hours at uh one forty. Right. And then I was going to uh scrape the fat and put it in dehydrator. Okay. And uh fry it.
+
+[25:46] Is that a good idea? Uh I yeah, uh at 140, I'm trying to think, um, so you want it to puff like a chicharron or you want it to still have a lot of bite to it? Uh I want it to crunch. Yeah. Chicharron.
+
+[26:00] Right. So typically when I do like pork rinds, um I'll uh I won't I don't low temp them. I I cook the hell out of them actually. Like uh because the what you're doing, if you want it to fully puff, like a like a chicharone style, like like pork rinds, like in the package at the store. Uh oh yeah.
+
+[26:19] Yeah, yeah. The the trick there is you need to render all of the collagen into gelatin, all of it. Uh and and I typically do that by boiling it in salted water for like boiling it in very salted water for like mmm sixty minutes, seventy minutes, something like that. Until it's it's uh shot and completely shot. And then uh I drain it and let it cool because one uh it'll burn the heck out of your hands, and two, um it's very, very fragile until it cools down.
+
+[26:48] When it cools down, the gelatin's gonna start to set up a little bit. Then I s once and then I put it in the fridge flat when it's cold, then it's got more structure to it. Then I scrape it, dehydrate it, and fry it, and it puffs up huge. And if you want it to not puff up quite as much, you don't scrape it as much. I'd be really interested to know what the texture difference is between uh cooking at 140 and cooking it the way I normally do, which is you know, at boiling.
+
+[27:15] Um I'd be very interested to know what the textural difference is because my feeling is you're gonna get you're not gonna have rendered out all the the collagen and so it's gonna hold together a little better. What happens in a pork rind is you dehydrate it just till it turns kind of flexy plastic like a shrinky dank from when I was a kid. How long to dehydrate? It totally dep depends on the on the dehydrator, but I I really honestly just do it by by eye, and it should it should feel it it goes from being a piece of skin to all of a sudden looking like a piece of plastic. And I would just keep like test frying little pieces, and once you see it one time, you'll know what's right.
+
+[27:54] And uh the the best way, honestly, it depends on how humid it is, but uh you know where you are, but um what I'll do is it's it's humid, yeah. I I I usually do I usually dehydrate it about uh eighty percent of the way um and then pull it out and let it sit overnight. Uh and sometimes it'll take itself all the rest of the way. It's very it's very hard to get it rehydrated if you've over dehydrated it. Um so that you really want to guard against over dehydrating because um tempering it back to the proper moisture content is just it's a bear.
+
+[28:29] You know what I'm saying? Yeah, yeah. Yeah. So I would just keep looking at it. Caliber uh dehydrator on the 12 tray or something like that.
+
+[28:37] Oh yeah. Um so if that helps about what do you temperature I started at 135. I started I'm sorry. Yeah, I usually start it at 135. I'll let it go for uh I'll get let it go for a you know a couple of hours, I'll look at it.
+
+[28:54] And then what you could do overnight if you have it is just turn it down to its lowest setting uh and then let it ride. It shouldn't over dehydrate overnight on the lowest possible setting, which is I believe 95 on the X caliber. But it's better you can always pulse dehydrate to get more of the stuff out, and once it's partially dehydrated, it's not gonna spoil on you. So you don't need to worry about spoilage. Do you know what I'm saying?
+
+[29:19] But uh parceling uh just what do you say? What's partial partially dehydrated? What do you mean? Oh, so in other words, like uh if you if you if you don't dehydrate it enough, what's gonna happen is you're you're when you fry a test piece, it's going to have like a little uh like a kernel on the inside that's not gonna puff up. Okay.
+
+[29:39] When you if you over dehydrate it, it'll burn and just not puff up as much because there's not enough water to expand it anymore. So uh you know what what I usually do is is I don't let it dehydrate. If I'm gonna go to bed, I don't let it dehydrate when I'm not there because I don't want it to over dehydrate. But as long as you've started the dehydration process, you've reduced the water content of it enough that you're not going to get microbial spoilage in it overnight. So you don't need to worry about it.
+
+[30:05] And then, you know, the next day, if it if you know it hasn't kind of tempered out and become even all the way through, if you fry a piece in the morning, then you can just dehydrate it for another hour or so, and usually that's enough to to get it in the right in the right state. The real thing, like I say, is just to guard against over dehydrating. Okay. I appreciate you. Hey, hey, tell us how it works out.
+
+[30:26] I will. Thanks, Dave. Have a good day. You too. Hey, Dave.
+
+[30:30] Yes. So William McGee followed up and said maybe the correct name is Lulo. Lulo! Ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding. I have to also give a shout out to Andy Melka, who who also answered Lulo.
+
+[30:42] Can we give two pork chops away? If Andy Andy's not in New York, but if he comes, yes. We we will give the two pork chops away. There you go. Two winners on the pork shop.
+
+[30:50] So I can now go back and uh answer uh Carrie Campbell's question before the end of the show because we have two correct answers. Let's take a very quick break before that. Alright, quick break, come back uh 7184972128. That's 7184972128. The following is a message from the Heritage Meat Shop.
+
+[31:28] Are you tired of just hearing buzzwords? Do you want to actually take part in the food revolution? Then come on down to the Heritage Meat Shop. Located in New York's historic Essex Street Market. On the corner of Essex and Delancey.
+
+[31:39] We have rare breed pork, beef, poultry, lamb, and goat. Not to mention charcuterie that'll make you squeal. All raised right by the right people, so you know they'll taste right. Try the meat that over a hundred New York chefs ache for. Come to the Heritage Meat Shop and pick up some revolution today.
+
+[31:56] For more information, visit Heritagemeatshop.com. And welcome back to Cooking Issues. Okay. Uh so actually, before I go into Kerry Campbell's question, uh at something apropos of the of the pork, uh, we had a Twitter question in that uh from Ryan Rogers saying, uh, does removing uh the membrane from ribs prior to smoking uh or souvy, should you remove the membrane either before or after? What we're talking about is on the bone side of ribs, there's a uh kind of a membrane.
+
+[32:26] You know what I'm talking about, Jack? That membrane that the kind of like you can see yeah. Hey, Ryan Rogers, I went to college with. The same one? Fairly certain.
+
+[32:33] Wow, cool. Is he a good guy? I believe he's a chef in Kentucky now. Nice, nice. Well, do you like that membrane?
+
+[32:39] I actually happen to like it. Yeah, I don't mind it. Yeah. Well, I'm weird, I'm a bad person because it would like the both of us, we're bad people. Uh because all the people who know what the the what they're talking about, they tend to say to remove it for textural reasons, uh, because most people don't like it.
+
+[32:52] Uh I would remove it beforehand. Um I haven't had that much experience with leaving it on, but uh, versus not, I've never done the side by side, but everyone who removes it say they remove it to get better penetration of rubs and or spice. So I'm assuming that if you're going to add smoke, uh that it's better to take it off earlier because you're gonna get better penetration through it than if you uh didn't in terms of flavors and things like that. Fairly easy to strip off, strips off the same way that the membrane strips off of a skirt steak. So I would say remove it uh beforehand uh beforehand.
+
+[33:23] The other question was um uh should you do, I'm assuming you mean low temperature. Should I do uh Boston butt uh boneless or bone in low temperature? I would say take the bone out. It's just here's why. As much as everyone I know loves gnawing things off of the bone, um, the bone is really helpful as a protectant when you're cooking normally, but I don't think it's going to give you any benefit when you're doing low temperature because the whole point of low temperature is you're not going to overcook the meat anyway.
+
+[33:51] And in terms of presentation and sliceability, you're going to want to get that thing out of there so you can roll it. Uh it's also going to take less long to cook. You're going to get more accurate temperatures in the center. Um if you are vacuum bagging it, you're not going to pull any of the weird blood things out of the bone. If you pull the bone out, uh gives you a chance to trim some of the cartilage things away.
+
+[34:09] So I would definitely take the bone out. Uh that's just that's just my feeling. Um, let's take some cocktail questions. Uh we'll do we'll do Carrie's first because she's uh here uh is you think carry is man or woman? Carrie Camel.
+
+[34:23] I don't know. I think just Campbell. Carrie Camel? I was called Carrie. Camel?
+
+[34:27] Car no, Carrie. First name Carrie. First name Carrie. Carrie. Carrie.
+
+[34:32] Anyway. Um question for the podcast. I'm looking for a substitute for egg white to use in a pisco sour type drink. RGM will not allow egg whites behind the bar, but I am looking for something to give a drink a similar mouthfeel in foam. Gum syrup, maybe.
+
+[34:44] Uh, can I make syrup with egg white powder? Uh thanks. P.S.D. Mind sharing your recipe for the coriander syrup. Here's the recipe for the coriander syrup that we use at the bar.
+
+[34:52] Take uh 150 grams of uh fresh coriander seed, put it into a liter of water, blend it in a blender, and um uh one kilo of uh white sugar, uh bring it to the boil, toss in a bunch of crushed red pepper, stir and keep tasting it. Uh you know, turn the heat off. Uh stir and keep tasting it until the spice picks up to the level you want. You need a bit of spiciness in the back end of that thing to uh have it uh work correctly when we use it similar to like a ginger ale, then put it uh I would put a fine course chinois, like a coarse strainer, inside of a fine chinois and dump it through that. Uh the course chinois will catch most of this stuff, and the fine chinois will catch the rest, and it allows you to strain it one time, let it cool, and you're good to go.
+
+[35:38] Okay. Um so anyway, uh what can you use? Well, it you can make a drink uh to do an apisco a pisco style drink, might be really interesting with Lulo. Lulo is a South American, I I think of it as a Colombian fruit, and they use uh the juice of it constantly, and it makes an amazing uh kind of creamy head on the top, foamy head on it, just from the hydrocolloids that are naturally in the Lulo. So you could look for fruits that naturally want to foam up when you're doing a sour-style drink.
+
+[36:07] Lulo is also acidic, so it would it also it's kind of a cool green color. Um green or yellow depending. But you can uh it's really uh it's really interesting, so you could do something like that. If you wanted to use po I mean powdered egg white, unfortunately doesn't taste uh so good. Um I've done side-by-sides with uh pasteurized egg white, uh powdered egg white, uh my you know, my pasteurized egg white and um and regular egg white with Kenta Goto from Pegu Club years ago.
+
+[36:35] And the fresh egg white was better. Uh if your GM would let you use pasteurized egg whites uh in the box, they're they're not as good, but they're not I mean, whatever. I don't even know if they're gonna GM's gonna let you use that. Um you can pasteurize your own egg whites in an immersion circulator, or uh you can use gum syrup and it's gonna add some of the body to it. Um what I would do is make a call-up TIC gums, and they have a bunch of uh kind of really high quality foaming agents that you can use that they uh and if you call TIC gums and tell them what your problem is, um they have a product for you.
+
+[37:10] The one that we use that I've used for making kind of creamy heads on things is called Ticoloid 310 or 210S, and it's basically gum arabic with a little bit of xanthan gum in it. And if you want to increase the the foamy head nature of it even more, you uh you could dope it with a little more xanthan. You just don't want to add too much xanthan because it can add kind of a snotty, slippery mouthfeel to it. The commercial fake egg white foamer, uh looked up one of the ingredients uh for it, and um it's got an emulsifier, polysorbate 80. This is Fees Fee Brothers, uh potassium sorbate and some sodium benzoate.
+
+[37:46] Uh, but it lists its main ingredient as propylene glycol, which is an antifreeze. Uh it's hard, it's it's it's used, it's food grade, but it's you know it's not like fantastical. I I don't love it. But I think they probably meant is propylene glycol alginate, which is uh which is uh kind of a modified uh alginate um that is used as a as a beer head agent in beer, uh and it's it's not natural, but it's it's neutral and uh it is a f a foaming agent to increase the stability in the head of beer, so if you shake it, it's gonna uh stabilize the bubbles that are formed. And you could use something like that, but uh it's kind of horrible.
+
+[38:23] I would just get to pure propylene glycol alginate that doesn't have any kind of weird flavorings or anything in it, but it's gonna if in used in large amounts, it's gonna probably have a slippery kind of a feel to it. I don't know that you're going to uh enjoy that so much. Does that make sense, Jack? Sorry, yes, it does. I was away from the mic there.
+
+[38:40] Alright, that's okay. Don't worry about that. Okay. Um now uh have another cocktail question in from Hayden Lambert. Uh on how do I remove the color from homemade tonic water?
+
+[38:44] It has to be super low tech. Well, when I make tonic water, uh, it doesn't have any color because I don't use the bark uh, you know, the what I forget that I always get the name of the tree wrong. It's like Kinchona or something like that. Uh but I don't use the bark of the tree. Uh I use uh quinine sulfate uh USP, which I get from a uh a chemical house, um, which is what you know what the big folks use to make tonic water uh industrially, quinine sulfate.
+
+[39:15] Um it's a lot easier to dose, but it is expensive, and if you want to make it from bark, you gotta make it from bark, and it's gonna be um yeah, it's gonna be kind of colored and probably cloudy. Now, uh you're not gonna get rid of the color through any normal uh filtration technique like um coffee filter or whatnot, but you should definitely put it all through a coffee filter so that when you carbonate it, you're not gonna have a lot of crud floating around, which is gonna stop your ability to carbonate well. If you want to remove color, the only thing I know that strips color out that's really low tech is charcoal filter, but it's it's gonna have to have malt like activated charcoal like a Brita, but it's gonna take a long time and be aware that the uh activated charcoal won't just be stripping color, it'll also be stripping flavor. So I don't know uh what the affinity of uh activated charcoal is to uh quinine or to the other flavors that are in there. So um it's unclear to me what what will happen, but I know there are some people out there who actually filter their bitters through Brita's uh to kind of clear them up a little bit, but I mean it it's gonna have a radical effect on flavor.
+
+[40:19] In fact, there was a there was a company a number of years ago, and their main uh their main that well, their their only product was uh it was some take on uh on Grey Goose but I forget what it was was it was a charcoal filter so that you could go buy the like the world's cheapest crappiest vodka and filter it through this thing like like four five six times and turn it into an actually not unpleasant neutral vodka and it had a picture of a guy with a fur hat on like wasted out of his mind. You ever seen this Jack? Oh I haven't uh and so someone gave it to to me at the French culinary years ago and uh it was like an ex-alum and he you know he said uh hey you know uh can you know would you ever like I was like no I can't I can't advocate taking cheap vodka pouring it through a filter and and then drinking it so that like frat kids can uh get crunked up for cheap. I mean that's just not what I do for a living, you know I'm not against it. But you know but it's not like kind of it's not my shtick.
+
+[41:17] Do you know what I'm saying? But that said we used it all the time to take cheap liquor and kind of uh kill it so that we could use it in tests at the school without having to spend out for expensive uh vodka when we were doing infusion work. So it definitely does strip flavors out and we used to put uh bourbon through it to see what would happen and it strips not all of the color but some of the color and in fact it's filtration that strips the color out of aged rums when they turn them back to white again. Really? Yeah.
+
+[41:43] Yeah. What do they taste like the bourbons and rums? They just uh they just kills them a little bit you know what I mean it just deadens them up you know uh I mean I was never I mean in vodka like taking away that that hospital swab uh nose is a is a good thing but in most other situations um you know, it's not necessarily not necessarily the best. Uh okay. Uh Marty with Eagle Rock writes in.
+
+[42:06] Uh this isn't to elicit Nastasha's vegan face. Don't worry about it, she's in airplane now anyway. Uh I've recently made the decision to keep vegetarian at home, and I'm trying to create a mix that will serve as a base for things like patties and meatballs. I like the flavor and moisture level of the garbanzo, lentil, onion, crimini, dried porcini, roast eggplant, pearl barley mix. Jesus, that's quite a mix.
+
+[42:25] It's a mouthful. That's a mouthful. I can't believe I got that out in one breath. It's only because I did it later in the show when I've caught my breath. Yeah.
+
+[42:31] Uh but it lacks the elastic resistance of denatured meat. I thought soy flour might help, but nope. I would also like to come up with a vegan meatball that doesn't dissolve in marinara. Any thoughts, Marty and Eagle Rock. Okay, here's what I would do.
+
+[42:43] Um in order to get like an elastic situation, you're gonna need a gel that's gonna bind together. I know you tried soy protein uh you know, powder, but what you might not have tried is getting proteins. For instance, if you want to go vegan, you can't use casein, but you could use soy. Uh you know, you could go to something, you know, like a tempeh or one of those things that everyone uses or texturized vegetable protein, but you might be able to get some soy and then add some transglutaminase to it. And um transglutaminase works on soy protein to firm up things like tofu, and so you might be able to get bonding between soy protein in a patty.
+
+[43:22] And uh you so if you want to go vegan, you have to get uh a transglutaminase that doesn't have any casein added to it or gelatin. And so you're gonna have to use uh transglutaminase activa, uh which is made via Ginamoto T I. The TI is the enzyme only with maltodextrin and doesn't have any casein and doesn't have any um uh gelatin. It's it's vegan product. Uh and that one, if you mix it in a slurry with uh with uh soy protein, um sh the soy protein, once it's solubilized, should bond to itself over the course of about four hours.
+
+[43:58] So you would set you would make the patties, you would uh set them in the fridge for four to four hours overnight is even better, and they should firm up a lot more and then not break apart when you cook them. Right? That seems like a good idea to me. Seems like it would work. Uh and you know, then you don't have to use any sort of awful uh, you know, fake meat crap, which you know, most of those things are horrible.
+
+[44:21] Um Jack, how much more time do I have? I hate to do this to you, but it's time. Oh man. I didn't get to answer all the questions. A recurring theme on the show, I'd say.
+
+[44:32] All right, listen. E.T. from Reed College. Name something interesting about Reed College. Oh man, I don't know.
+
+[44:37] You you ready for this? Yeah. Yeah, it's important. I heard someone Portland. They have the world's only nuclear reactor run entirely by undergraduates.
+
+[44:47] Oh my god. Wow. Yeah, it's like simultaneously, I'm like, oh my god, I wish I went there. That's awesome. And then I'm like, holy crap, they have a nuclear reactor run by undergraduates.
+
+[45:00] I know it's crazy, right? I mean, like, you know, Portland, like the more you learn about Portland, the cooler it is, except for they don't people only bike, they don't walk. This is what I like about New York City. It's a walking city. I can see people.
+
+[45:09] I bike, but I also like to walk around. Anyway, E.T. answered from uh an alumna alumnus of Reed, answered the question we had weeks ago on Orchada. Uh next week I'll read E.T.'s answer. Uh we'll talk about eels and tobacco and Seiji Yamamoto and how he uses a compressed air gun to do ikajime on eels, probably after my Ikajima post goes up uh next week on the blog.
+
+[45:32] Uh, a couple other questions I didn't get to. Well you we didn't get to you, but you we haven't forgotten, you will get 'em next week. This has been cooking Issues. Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows.
+
+[45:57] You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store. You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:02] Broadcasting live from Roberta's in Bushwick, Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.com. Today's show has been brought to you by our good friends at TechServe. Visit TechServe.com for more information. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:27] This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live in the back of Roberta's Pizzeria on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday, roughly 12 to 1245. Joined again this week by Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. Nice. Copyright issues. We're moving towards using uh Yeah, we have no issues.
+
+[0:50] We just decided to do this. Well, I you know I just want everyone to know that Jack is working on uh the some of the music you're listening to while you're waiting for me to show up. Right? Is that true? You're writing the music?
+
+[1:00] Oh yeah, that's always been mine, yeah. Yeah, nice. Shout out to Jack. Thanks. Uh but uh I also I brought you know, Jack told me to bring in some of my college bands.
+
+[1:09] We might hear some of that later, some of my college band stuff since there's no copyright issues with that. And uh Jack, I know they're not a sponsor, but can we listen to the Hearst Ranch grass fed beef song later on? You might have to wait until they sponsor, but oh come on, really? They'll be back soon. We've got a TechServe commercial for you today.
+
+[1:24] Really? But Hearst Ranch grass fed beef is like the best song. It's my fa I like sing that jam as I'm walking around the streets. I'll tell Brian that Brian Kenny. It's good stuff, right?
+
+[1:35] Yeah, it's awesome. You should have seen the face Nastasia made when she uh when I told her we'd be playing your band today. Oh, is it was it worse than vegan or similar to uh on par. On par with vegan face? No.
+
+[1:44] Yeah. Uh so uh another thing, uh, last week when I started the show, I was so out of breath that uh you could literally hear me gasping for air during the first segment. This time I'm a little more rested because uh I almost died on the bike ride over, which is part of the reason I was a little later than uh even normally. Uh for those of you that uh well, everyone who listens to the show knows that Nastasha hates hipsters more than almost anything else on earth besides good weather. And um, but you you might not know that Nastash and I both ride fixed gear bicycles.
+
+[2:13] Now, for those of you that uh you know are gonna cry foul that all that we're actually secret hipsters, we both ride folding fixed gear bicycles, which are about the least hip bicycles on earth. But uh today when I was demon pedaling down the uh down slope on the uh on the Williamsburg Bridge, I threw my chain. And uh for those of you a fixed gear bicycle, throwing a chain is uh is uh can be really dangerous because it can lock your back wheel and send you flying off onto the onto the thing. Anyway, luckily I didn't die and I didn't make it here uh on time. So uh well, no, I mean late, but you know, not dead.
+
+[2:47] I made it not dead. Yeah. Right? Good. Anyway, call your questions to 7184972128.
+
+[2:52] That's 718497 2128. I want to start with I had two separate comments uh in the questions today uh about a new circulator that's on Kickstarter called uh what's it called there styles? Namico? Yeah. Namico?
+
+[3:06] Yeah. Did you know who made Namico? Uh Weep. Why didn't you mention this to me? Why you knew this and you never mentioned it to me?
+
+[3:12] You knew he was making the circulator? I read it this morning. Anyway, so I went on the I go on the thing and someone's like, hey, look at this circulator. And I and I look at it, and it's like one of the creators is is BAM. First of all, we pop.
+
+[3:25] If you're out there, we pop. Uh we pop, we pop slash bam soupypot, uh, is is one of our former interns, worked with us at the FCI. We love Weepop. Weepop's good business. So uh Weepop, whose name is Weepop, which is the greatest name on all time of all times, decides that he needs a nickname and goes by BAM, which is not even partially as cool as Weepop.
+
+[3:47] True or false. Right. Yeah. Anyway, so uh Wee Pop is out there making a circulator, and two separate people, two separate non-Weepop people, have uh written to see what I think about it. And you go, it's look Namico, you can look for it on Kickstarter.
+
+[4:00] He they need an extra, I think $40,000 in the next how many? Like 14 days or something like that. Yeah. Anyway, they need another uh of like $50,000. They got $160,000 or so out of $200,000 that they need uh to get their Kickstarter money.
+
+[4:15] Uh but he's designed this uh this immersion circulator that looks a little bit like a shower head, it looks kind of like a wee pop design, right? Uh it's got one knob. Uh what is it do you can you find out what the price is supposed to be? Okay. Yeah, find out what the price is supposed to be.
+
+[4:28] Uh my one comment on it uh as opposed to the ones that I use. Uh it's you know, it's a little bit less powerful, it's 750 watts instead of a thousand, but it's made for uh home people, and good luck to good luck to Weepop, right? Yeah, yeah. Good luck. I mean, I love myself some weepop, you know.
+
+[4:44] Uh I wish that instead of coming out with a circulator, he would make some of the food products I want him to make, like weepop sickles, we pop corn. You know, it right? I mean, wouldn't that be great? You wouldn't want that? I like that he's doing this.
+
+[4:55] Oh yeah, he well, can't he do both? Can't he have weepop corn? It's pretty amazing that he came up with this so quickly. Well, he just rapid products does it doesn't, I don't think they it's not in production yet. Still.
+
+[5:05] Yeah, it's like a it's like a ra rapid, it's a you know he has I think rapid prototyping work on it. And we pop, aside from going to school for culinary, uh went to school uh as an industrial designer, currently living in Bangkok, and I thought doing tr like training, like stock trading. Yeah. Last time we spoke to him, he was doing stock training. Weepop.
+
+[5:24] Man of man of many pops, weepop. Love weepop. Okay. Uh so that's all I'm gonna say about Namiko right now, right? That's both questions I answered.
+
+[5:31] Mm-hmm. Yeah, okay. Uh okay. I suppose this is really a food issue rather than a cooking issue. Uh but I was curious to hear your opinion on the prospective large soda ban in New York.
+
+[5:42] Uh it seems Dave is a bit of a bubble addict, and while I know this might be more of a political issue, I figure it couldn't hurt to ask Pat. Uh well listen, Pat, uh and anyone else out there, you are welcome to ask us uh food and wheat uh issues as opposed to cooking issues, and uh we have no problem uh making pronouncements or uh getting political, right? Mm-hmm. I think it's uh oh, and by the way, what we're talking about here is uh Bloomberg has proposed a ban on selling sodas, sugarful sodas, uh larger than sixteen ounces. So in New York City, uh 20 ounce soda bottles would be illegal or to sell, uh sugarful ones, you could buy sugarless ones.
+
+[6:24] Uh and uh like big gulp well, heck no, big gulps I think are are still legal. But there's some sort of weird thing, like certain venues can sell it, like convenience anyway, there's there's all these kind of weird things. But restaurants wouldn't be able to sell sodas larger than uh sixteen ounce. And the the theory behind it is that uh i i you know their feeling is is that sodas are empty calories, a term which I detest. I detest the word empty calorie almost as much as I detest the word junk food.
+
+[6:49] Uh and uh because I think it's stupid, there's no there's no foods that are inherently evil. There are bad habits, right? There's no such thing as food that's inherently evil unless you add literal poison to it. Or somehow you're destroying the earth actively by eating it, you know, like on purpose. Like, you know, I don't know, or like, you know, that you're told that eating this piece of food will cause someone else to suffer in another country on purpose.
+
+[7:12] I mean, like there's no literally very few literally junk bad foods, just bad habits. Anyway, so rather than trying to change people's habits, right, rather than through education and habit changing, uh they want to stop New York City uh residents from consuming calories in the form of soda by literally limiting what can be sold. Think it's dumb. Uh what do you think, Nasasha? Have you thought about it at all?
+
+[7:38] No. What do you think? Wait, to be clear though, it's this is sugar sodas, not just carbonation, right? Yeah, but they're not gonna in other words I can go correct. I mean it's not anti-carbonation.
+
+[7:49] It's it's basically trying to make a stab against the rise in diabetes here here and across the country. What about noncarbonated sugary drinks? Uh I I'm not sure. I know that juices are exempt which are extremely high in calories. I know that like you know your 8,000 quart milk uh beverage from Starbucks is exempt.
+
+[8:12] You know, that has like 5000 pumps of syrup in it and you know has a billion and a half calories that that they call a coffee but isn't it actually a jug of milk. Like that one is is exempt. And people are fat and people do have diabetes, you know what I mean? On the other hand, uh I think this is an incredibly poor way about uh you know of tr of trying to fix it. It's it's it's on the order of, you know, I I don't know, i i it you know how they say you people are just treating symptoms rather than causes?
+
+[8:51] There're just treating uh like a simple symptom rather than rather than uh you know any sort of the of the root root causes. The problem is is that uh people's dietary habits in general are bad. And I think the reason why our dietary habits in general are bad is because we have this demented idea about food anyway, that there's these things such things as good foods, you know, or like like junk food uh versus like food that's really good for you, and then people all of you know, people feel that, well, I'm not eating healthy anyway, so I'm gonna go completely ape shit, and then they drink like eighty-five quarts of uh of soda and go and go horrible instead of just having everyone try to meet in the middle, a sensible diet. You know, like you don't try to try to be some you know ascetic vegan monk who only eats like you know half of a vegetable once every three days and consider that healthy, which I don't find that healthy, right? Or versus someone who pounds 85 Big Macs a day.
+
+[9:46] I don't consider that healthy either. You know what I mean? Like neither of those is healthy. Healthy is meeting in the middle, and I think uh, you know, the way to get us to start thinking that way isn't to put a ban on something, i.e. to make it more when you put a ban on something like that, you're basically making it more enticing to people.
+
+[10:01] You're saying, oh, you can't have this, it's forbidden, so it must be good and fun and awesome. You know what I mean? I think the way to do it is to change the education, uh change the way we think about food in general, stop thinking about uh the you know what you know foods as being inherently healthy and unhealthealthy, think of habits as being healthy or unhealthy. That's my my feeling on it. I think this is an incredibly uh poor way to go about legislating health.
+
+[10:26] I think we shouldn't be legislating dietary habits. I think it's not the government's business in general to be le legislating my dietary habits. Um that's just my feeling. You have any thoughts now that you've heard me spew about it? I agree with you.
+
+[10:38] What do you think, Jack? Uh I think it's I think any effort is better than no effort, but I don't think it's gonna go through anyway, so it doesn't really matter. Yeah, it doesn't really matter. But in other words, like I mean, like an effort would be to try and help somebody this like it's also the there's these undercurrents, it's like really they're not aiming they're not aiming this legislation at you know the all the the thin uh rich uh um people who go to the gym eight times a day who live in the wealthier parts of New York. Let's be honest about it.
+
+[11:09] That's not who they're facing at, right? Instead, they're trying yet another social legislation against uh poorer people uh who you know don't have that much money uh and they're basically assuming that these people the only way we can help them is through legislation, because clearly, you know, we're we're not reaching them any other way. I d I in in general I detest any sort of social legislation uh directed at particular socioeconomic groups because it smacks to me of all the stuff that when we hear about it when it was legislated in the 1800s and the 1900s, we're like, damn that was racist and crappy. Do you know what I'm saying? And now we look at it now, it's like, well, we're just trying to help them be more healthy, right?
+
+[11:50] In fifty years, won't we not look back at it and say, damn, another, you know, another basic uh racist uh you know socioeconomic put down? You don't think so? But at least it got the conversation started, did it not? What? We're all talking about soda and portion size now.
+
+[12:05] Well we're but you know the th but look, portion size has been addressed by people like Marion Nessel for uh a long time. The question isn't I mean, portion sizes have definitely gone up. The question is, why does the average uh lower middle class uh person in another country who still has the means to buy an absurd amount of soda if they wanted to, right? Why is it that those people aren't buying huge sodas? Why is it that those people aren't getting fat?
+
+[12:29] And why is it that our people are, right? And it's it's a mental issue. It has you know it like it's like, oh, the portion sizes got bigger as though it was an elephant that suddenly started growing when in fact people are ordering the larger portion sizes. Do you know what I'm saying? It's like the So to try and to try and staunch the tide by saying, Well, no, it's it's the soda that's it's it's the soda that's to blame.
+
+[12:51] It's not the soda that's to blame. It's the fact that we're ordering larger sodas to blame. Burger King clearly is making money by selling larger sodas, and McDonald's clear is clearly making money by selling larger sodas, right? Which means that uh the the way that we purchase things is demented. No?
+
+[13:07] Well, one one last thing. I had to go to Long Island to see some friends, and it was really late, and the only thing open was Burger King. I hadn't had it in a long time, right? So I I pick a value meal and they say, Do you want a medium or large? So I'm like, you know, the medium.
+
+[13:19] And that medium drink was enormous. I couldn't even imagine what the large would be. Large is large. Right. You know what I mean though?
+
+[13:25] Like to to sell a you could swim in the large. Yeah, to sell a 32-ounce medium drink is just kind of ridiculous. They should at least regulate that. Well, I don't mean look, you don't have to drink the whole damn. Do you really feel only I I'm the only person I know who feels obliged to finish everything I order, right?
+
+[13:41] I mean, you're not obliged to pound, and first of all, unless you're with Nastasha, that 32 ounce cup has about 22 ounces of ice in it. You know what I mean? That's very true. Do you order your drinks without ice? Nice.
+
+[13:52] She says it's because she doesn't like the feeling of ice against her teeth. It's really because she's a psycho and wants every nickel's worth. I know her. She's cheap, just like I am. I really don't like ice in it.
+
+[14:00] But you're using a freaking straw on it anyway. What does it matter if there's ice in it? There's a collar. Okay, call listen, by the way, come beat me down on this, please. Please be beep beat the hell out of me on this.
+
+[14:08] Call her, you're on the air. Hi, uh, yeah, uh, this is uh James Ray. Uh uh love the show. Uh listen to it every week. Um the uh I have a question.
+
+[14:18] I have a vacuum reduction rig that I set up. Um I thought it would be less fussy or persnickety than a uh rotovap system. Probably is rotovaps are pretty persuasive. Um it's uh I mean basically I had to add a twenty gallon water reservoir to it to keep the water cool. Um whenever I get, you know, whenever I try to do something that's a little jammy, whenever it gets to a point where it could kind of get where I want it, it starts bumping, even though I've got the pellet in there that's spinning.
+
+[14:53] Um so do you have any advice that I could use in kind of reining this in? Is there a kind of a best practice that I'm missing out on here? All right, here's here's the here's the deal. One, uh the the the things that you've noted are known known actual things that some of them are gonna be very hard to get around. Um it takes if you if you just look at the numbers, right?
+
+[15:16] Of the the heat of fusion, which is uh what what it takes uh for you to um when you're melting ice, right? When you're melting ice for cooling, you get the heat of fusion per gram back. The heat of v heat of vaporization is a much higher number. Uh so to recondense uh water that you've boiled off, it takes uh an intensely larger amount of energy than it does to melt the ice. I think it's on the order, it's on the order of six times.
+
+[15:42] I forget the exact numbers, but it takes about six kilos of ice, uh, assuming per like perfect efficiency to uh condense one liter of water. Well, actually I've been able to I've got kind of something like a wart filler in there and I've got it hooked up to another uh pump that is pumping water through my uh my aspirator. So I've got and I've got a high end I've got the really kick uh a butt aspirator. Right. Um so it but it's but it's still kind of annoying like the whole thing, like I said, very fussy.
+
+[16:17] Like I mean I get uh every once in a while I get what I want out of it, but I kind of have to sit there and fiddle with it. Um how much how much ice do you have stirrer on it that I got before that was digital which was a huge mistake. Um but yeah so I yeah. Well you're you're chilling your aspirator water though, right? Yeah, exactly.
+
+[16:38] Yeah, I mean like 'cause I I set up a rig like that with a bunch of aspirators and a flowjet pump, which I might have talked about at one point like, you know, early on in the shit that I got I stole off of a um a meth lab website. You know, so it's not kind of as nice as the built together aspirators, but it kind of functions the same thing. And I tore through ice in that thing with the pumps, pour through it. Um bumping, um remember you're gonna like the the magnetic stir rod will beat down bubbles after they happen, but the bumping is happening because there aren't any bubbles in it. And all and you superheat it and then all of a sudden a large bubble forms and creates a bump.
+
+[17:15] So it's it'll it'll stop frothing like the the the spinning thing will s uh stop frothing on your initial boil out, or it'll help. But it won't help with bumping. What you need to do to help with bumping is to install a very, very fine and you're gonna as you get more and more of syrup, you're gonna need this a very, very, very, very fine tube down into the product with a needle valve and let the minutest amount of air in to initiate bubbles in the product as you're making it. And it's the tiniest, tiniest bleed of air. Uh and uh it'll raise your temperature a little bit because you won't be able to suck as good of a vacuum as you would otherwise.
+
+[17:57] Uh and but it's gonna radically it'll strip some flavor out of it, but you've already really reduced it quite a bit anyway, so a lot of the volatiles are gone. But it's the only way to really prevent uh massive amounts of bumping. In fact, when you're doing um hardcore reductions with of things like port wine, uh Madeira in a roto vap uh or orange juice or apple juice or whatever, when you get down to the last stage in a roto vap, you're constantly needing to bleed small uh like hits of air into the system to get it to boil again properly instead of like the instead of the distillation dying out and then and then bumping. So you don't even need to continuously let air in. If you just have like a little thing you can go and let a small amount of air in and it'll initiate some violent but non-bumping boiling uh after that happens, and then once it settles down again, give it a small punch of air again, you'll initiate violent but non-bumping boiling, and that's really the only effective way to get that last little bit of water out.
+
+[18:58] Cool. Okay, thanks a lot. Hey, no problem. Uh tell us how it works. All right, I will.
+
+[19:03] Cool, thanks. Um, well, I guess I spewed enough about the uh uh about the this the soda ban uh whatnot. We could talk more about it later. I look I encourage anyone to call and beat our faces in for this. But uh, you know, do it, do it.
+
+[19:18] Anyway, let's go to break. Hey Seltzer, been in my fridge so long. Seems that partial pressures made you taste all wrong. Hey, seltzer. Think I'll add a lemon.
+
+[20:24] Make you taste much better. Why don't you ID that track for us, dude? That is uh that is that is seltzer. Uh track that uh one of my college bands, Bluto did. I'm playing uh bass.
+
+[20:35] That was nineteen ninety, I think, nineteen ninety or nineteen ninety-one. So way back in the day when uh, you know, I was playing bass on a daily thing. But the concept of this is that you had a bottle of seltzer in your fridge, and you you drank portion of it, and then you let it sit there and it turned to crap, and and then you it tastes horrible like semi-flat seltzer tastes horrible, and you think you're gonna make it taste better by adding lemon. It's like who am I fooling? Who am I fooling?
+
+[21:02] This is horrible stuff. Hey, seltzer. Hey, seltzer. So clear and so cool. Now you taste worse than water.
+
+[21:09] Anyway, that's how the that's how the song goes. We could play that more eventually, right? Not today, but all the time. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[21:15] It's, you know, it contains no curses, unlike some of my other songs. Uh anywho. So uh we're gonna actually Nastash, we're gonna have to have another break later so we can play our TechServe song. Give me some TechSurf song, Jack. Just say Texur Song.
+
+[21:26] Tech Surf song. Yeah, tech. Is that yours or someone else? Not a song. It's actually a commercial me and Joe did.
+
+[21:31] It's uh it's great. Yeah, it's awesome. You'll see. I'm looking forward to it. Uh hi all, longtime listener, love the show.
+
+[21:38] Uh experimenting with making my own sausages and would now like to know how much fat to add uh to a mixture and what type. First, I do not know how much fat is in the cut of meat I'm working with. I currently use beef chuck, uh, but would like uh a way of testing any piece of meat. And second, how much fat should there be? I realize it's a taste issue, but uh how much would you use?
+
+[21:56] And lastly, for religious reasons, I won't use pork. What type of fat is best to use to increase the total fat content? Thanks a lot, Justin in Israel. All right. Well, uh, it is a matter of taste, but there's a lot more fat in sausage than you think.
+
+[22:10] You want anywhere between uh I think 30% fat total content to one third fat total content, and sometimes even uh more, right? But that's the range you want to hit, about one third fat. But you hit the nail on the head, uh Justin, when you said it's very difficult to know how much uh fat is in um a product. Now, I consulted my uh the professional charcuterie series by uh Marcel Cottensaw et al. Which is this lunatic old French series with like these three lunatic old French dudes with the tall like rooster chicken head hats on, like on the front, like you know, surrounded by plates and plates of meat with that weird half French smile.
+
+[22:51] You know what I'm talking about? That Frenchy half smile thing? Anyway, uh, and uh, you know, i They mainly are using uh pork, obviously, but uh they kind of reinforce what what I was saying, which is you want about one-third uh fat in the mixture. Now, when you're making sausages, the important thing is the fat should be uh hard, relatively hard, because you don't want it to render into nothingness as the sausage is cooking. That's why when you are using pork, if you're gonna supplement the fat that you're using, you typically supplement with um back fat, because back fat is hard, it grinds nicely, it doesn't have like a lot of sinews, and you can get it in kind of big chunks.
+
+[23:31] So that's kind of the sinequan non of sausage fats. In beef, um, I would probably for added beef fat, I would probably use um you know the like like the cap of fat that's trimmed off of the outside of uh a rib, standing rib, you know I'm talking about. Like I would use something like that that's pretty hard, uh, that's gonna withstand kind of uh you know chopping and cooking, and that also tastes good. Uh some people I I think use kind of suet, which is the kidney fat, but it's kind of weird and dry, and it renders actually quite well, so I wouldn't use something like that. I think I would stick to the type of fat that you would find uh on on the cap of let's say a rib roast or something similar.
+
+[24:10] Um, uh I looked up uh I found on the on the interwebs uh that uh pork shoulders are approximately uh 75 to 25, and I think chuck roast, uh which is I think what you said you were using, I can't remember, roughly similar. So I would supplement with a little bit of fat. If you're using like a really fatty kind of chuck, I would substitute a little fat. But the classic, you know, Mid East fat to use, uh, especially in uh you know, kind of Muslim applications, would be lamb. And in fact, they raise in the Middle East, which I would love to have access to, have never tasted it, special fatty lambs that have fat that is used to make delicious sausages and cured meats.
+
+[24:51] In fact, they have a fatty lamb with a fatty lamb tail, where they cure just this extremely fat tail and eat it almost like you would eat, I think like a lardo, but I've never had it. So I I can't really uh say anything about it. But I I would definitely um I would subs I would add some fat to what you're using. Let me see what you what you said you were using again. Yeah, chuck.
+
+[25:10] So if you're getting really fatty chuck that's untrimmed, I mean I don't really know of a test to test how much fat is in the meat proper. I mean, I guess it's theoretic theoretically you could weigh it and then do a volume situation, figure out the density. But the best thing to do is just look on the interwebs and try and find what the fat content of that cut is. It's really also going to depend on the specific marbling content of the meat. Uh so it's difficult.
+
+[25:33] If anyone has a test, or I'm gonna I'll try and look maybe during the week if I have time to figure out a good test and talk about uh next time. But I would substitute in a good hard fat. If you have a nice fatty piece of chuck, I would assume it's about 25% fat, and you're gonna want to add more to get it up to that one third number, right? Uh or use lamb or duck fat, I think works uh as well. I've made sausages with duck fat because duck fat can be pretty hard sometimes if you get the the good part.
+
+[25:57] What do you think, Stuff? It's a good answer. Alright, Justin, good luck with that, and give us a give us a holler back. Uh okay. Mike writes in greetings from Taiwan.
+
+[26:07] Love the show. Whenever I download a new episode, it's like an old friend coming to visit. Thanks for all your hard work. That's nice, right? Uh here's my question.
+
+[26:14] I am a spice freak. I have traveled a bit through Malaysia and Sri Lanka, lucky. Uh, and always head to the spice markets to see what's available. The quality and variety are incredible. I inevitably fill half of my suitcase with spices, and then I'm left wondering how to best keep them in my Taiwanese apartment.
+
+[26:28] Should I keep them chilled in the freezer or refrigerator, or will condensation affect the spices much like it does coffee? I already know that buying whole and grinding to order will help maintain quality and increase the longevity of product, but would welcome any other advice. Okay, look. Like everything else in the world, everything depends. Things like leaves.
+
+[26:48] Spices that are leaves, fresh leaves, right? You can freeze them, but the problem is is that when you freeze them and thaw them, they're usually damaged by the thaw procedure, and then enzymes in leaves break them and turn brown. This is why uh like tender leaf herbs are very not very good when they're frozen. So those typically, even though they're not the same as fresh, are gonna be best kind of lightly dried. Once they're lightly dried, the enzymes aren't gonna work anymore.
+
+[27:15] Then you can freeze them. Any case, uh the problem with coffee, coffee is very like a dry, dry good that's gonna be ruined, especially due to the kind of the brewing process and what goes on by water and condensation. So you definitely don't want to have coffee go in and out of the freezer because condensation will form. If you are gonna do this on an extended basis, purchase a vacuum machine, and even a home vacuum machine is gonna be good for this kind of thing. Vacuum the products down so there's not a lot of external moisture in it or oxygen, and then when you freeze it, you're gonna have less damage uh due to freeze sauce cycles in your freezer.
+
+[27:47] The main problem with uh keeping things in the freezer in terms of quality is freeze thaw, freeze thaw, freeze stuff, freeze thaw, right? Uh and so I would say that long-term storage, I mean, I have to buy a lot of my leaf spices like curry leaf and things like that, frozen here in New York because that's the only way they come in. Or key for lime leaves. Uh I buy them frozen because that's the only way I can get them. Uh, and you too can store your your products that way.
+
+[28:11] If you need to, I would recommend vacuum packing and getting all of the um air out. Even if you're going to store them on a shelf. Vacuum packing once, even though that vacuum pack is going to get rid of a little bit of the aroma, is going to be a good long-term storage uh procedure because you're not going to have uh any spices that might be damaged by oxidation or anything like that, uh, which is going to keep them more intact. Fridge is generally not. Meh, yeah, fridge.
+
+[28:34] Meh. What do you think, stuff? Yeah, bridge. Because like stuff can grow in the fridge. If there's if there's water in it, I wouldn't store it in the fridge.
+
+[28:40] If there's not what, I mean, you know, it's like meh, you know? Yeah. No? Anyway. I hope that helps, Mike.
+
+[28:46] Let us know, uh, let us know what you got there. And you know, and I generally don't like the home uh uh vacuum machines, but I think for that kind of a thing, it's it's probably adequate. This is my feeling. Uh someone call me and tell me I'm an idiot. Uh you know, I usually am, right?
+
+[29:00] Uh Michael Natkin from Herbavora's uh wrote in and said, uh I've got a question for you guys about making cultured butter. At uhterra in New York City, Matt Lightner served a washed rind cheese cultured butter. I figured out how to make it at home. It's easy enough. I take one pint, 467 grams of good organic cream, 25 grams of a rind from a funky cheese.
+
+[29:21] I used Calgary Creamery Red Hawk. Fancy, expensive. Uh mix, let's stand room temp till it thickens and the cream tastes funky. Took about a level uh 14 hours for me. Refrigerate overnight.
+
+[29:32] Uh you actually, and it's important to refrigerate overnight. Uh when you're churning cultured butter, if it's warm, it just it's just a freaking nightmare getting making butter out of it, uh, just so you guys know. Churn, drain, knead, rinse, voila. Ah, I would not I would not rinse it. I don't know why you're uh I love the taste of the whey in uh you know the buttermilk that's in uh butter.
+
+[29:51] So like when I'm making my butter, I usually under, I usually under knead it, and I usually don't rinse it at all. I'll knead it in the thing and then squeeze out just enough to keep it, and I love the taste of it. It will not keep as long. Uh and it's not good for cooking at that point because it's not good for cooking because it's got more water content in it, but as a something you're gonna spread on bread, I love it with a little bit of the extra buttermilk left in. So I wouldn't over knead it and I wouldn't rinse it.
+
+[30:17] This is my feeling. But that's not his question. His question is, how do I know this is safe? I'm eating it and it tastes great and it seems fine to me, but I'm a little leery about serving it to other folks since I don't really have the knowledge to say that leaving the cream out for 14 hours is okay. Of course, people do it with making creme fresh as well, but is it safe?
+
+[30:33] Uh P.S. I took uh Dave's advice on hitting up Corinne, our knife friends, you know, Salari San for a carbon steel knife and the DMT two-sided diamond sharpening stone. Took a chance on the 70-30 bevel, and I'm not finding it too hard to sharpen accurately, though greed is more challenging than a traditional Western or a traditional Japanese knife. I'm loving both the knife and the stone, and it's easier to have a razor sharp edge every day with this setup. Well, thanks.
+
+[30:54] That's very nice. Um okay, so the wash rind cheeses uh typically the ones I looked up uh use a bacteria called brevi bacterium linens. Uh so if that's gonna culture it, if that's gonna be what's culturing the uh the buttermilk, right? Typically that's not what you would have uh to culture cream. You would use a lactobacillus would be in there to culture cream.
+
+[31:14] Uh hopefully you're also getting a lactobacillus in there. I looked up uh, you know, I looked up the kind of the characteristics of wash wine cheese rind cheeses and the Brevi Bacterium linens is typically has a lower acid, i.e. a higher pH than normally cheeses would uh of that of that type uh without that bacteria. So you're talking about a higher pH uh situation. In cultured buttermilk, or in cultured uh cream rather, that you're gonna turn into butter, uh, the safety val the safety of it um is is because of the acidity that's being caused by the uh lactic acid bacteria as it cultures.
+
+[31:50] Um I looked up some studies in general, and uh what you want uh to make sure that nothing is gonna be bad is that uh you want the pH to go low lower than four point six uh within uh about six hours, which is the limit for uh toxins from um uh staff stuff to start growing in it. Um I wasn't able to find whether or not uh the Bravi Bacterium Linens has its own sort of way of killing uh things like staph or listeria or or or uh E. coli or things things of this nature. I mean I wouldn't freak out over it. You know what I mean?
+
+[32:27] Like I wouldn't flip my lid over it. I'm I'm I'm gonna try to McGee is re Harold McGee has researched all this stuff. I need to talk to him anyway to see whether or not we're gonna go taste mangoes again this year. Uh but I'm gonna try to remember to hit him up on that because it's it's very uh it's very interesting uh question. Uh anyway, so apparently I don't I don't know that much about it.
+
+[32:46] Right? Sorry about that. Uh okay. Uh Paul Peterson writes in and uh says, Do I have any thoughts on patented cuts of meat? And he's talking patented cuts of meat, and he's talking about the Vegas strip steak.
+
+[33:00] So why don't we take a break and we'll come back and talk about the Vegas strip steak. 7184972128. That's 7184972128. Man, I need a new computer. I guess I'm gonna have to go to the Apple store.
+
+[33:12] What? Don't go to the Apple store, go to TechServe. What's TechServe? I thought Apple Store was the only choice. No, you're crazy.
+
+[33:19] TechServe is so much better than the Apple store. They're New York's original and still the best Apple computer, iPod, and iPhone store and repair shop. Plus, the store is really cool. You gotta go check it out. They're located at 119 West 23rd Street.
+
+[33:32] Well, that settles it. I'm I'm headed to TechServe. TechServe is a proud sponsor of Heritage Radio Network.org. For more information, visit TechServe.com. That's T E K S E R V E dot com.
+
+[33:43] What? Go to TechServe. I love that. Give me some what? What?
+
+[33:49] There you go. There you go. Nice. Nice. Strong.
+
+[33:52] Strong. Okay. Uh we're remiss. Uh acephalopod on Twitter asked this about eight million times and is getting irritated with us for recommendations in Tokyo. Now listen.
+
+[34:03] Uh the sad truth is that Nastasha and I didn't get to eat out as much. Who you really want to talk to is Mark Ladner because he spent every day eating out. Now, those of you that read the blog, um by the way, there'll be a new blog post up as soon as this is over. I'm just waiting for the YouTube video to load up on Ikajime. And I know I said I wasn't gonna write super long posts anymore, but it's a long freaking post on Ikajime.
+
+[34:24] I just couldn't freaking help myself. Anyway, I couldn't help it. So it's coming up as soon as uh maybe during lunch I can get it up. Anyway, uh so those of you that read the blog know that uh that Nastasha and Mark Ladner and I went to Jiro's uh sushi and it was good, but I wouldn't spend 350 on it. What about you, Stas?
+
+[34:40] Yeah. Yeah. Mark, on the other hand, the next day went to Sushi Sawada and said it was the best sushi he's ever had in his whole freaking life. True or false. It's because I wasn't there.
+
+[34:48] Well, there's that. That means uh so yes, so it was even better because you weren't there, but he said that regardless of the company that it was the best sushi he'd ever had, right? Right. Right. Um what did you think of the sushi place at the at the Sakiki Market, the Iwashi place?
+
+[35:02] I thought it was good. I thought it was really good. It's a good place, also fairly well known. That you could see that on our blog actually, and there's a couple comments on the on the cooking issues uh saying where that restaurant is. This is sad, and Mark agreed with me too, and normally I like it's hard.
+
+[35:15] I don't want to recommend because they're our friends and everything, but the the Japanese, traditional Japanese restaurant, the Park Hyatt, I thought was pretty good. I ate there twice. Yeah. I thought it was really good. And Mark Ladner from Del Posto loved it, right?
+
+[35:26] And and you don't normally think of like, you know, Park Hyatt having like a really good, especially Japanese, and it was really good. I thought it was really good, what's the name of it? Koko way or something like that? Uh no, I don't remember. Look it up.
+
+[35:37] We'll see if we can look it up in time. Um, you know, I highly recommend going to Sakiji in general uh and just like try checking out all the stalls around it and uh just getting little bites bites to eat, buying fruit if you have the money, if you have the freaking money to buy fruit at Sakiji. Um what else did we eat while we were there that was really I mean go go to go to the chef's district street if you're a cook. Right. What else?
+
+[36:02] Anything? Oh, we went to Muranta San's Kaiseki restaurant, the Tokyo version of it, and I spoke to Dave Chang about it. He's like, ah, crap on the Tokyo version, he doesn't give a crap about Tokyo, you have to go to the one in Kyoto. But the presentation was great in the one in in Tokyo, but you know, I don't know. Anyway, those are my thoughts.
+
+[36:17] Sorry I'm so late in giving you that information. Okay. Uh Nastasha Dave and Jack, I have an odd question. While I was calibrating my circulator, I instinctively changed it to Celsius. Then I thought about it more.
+
+[36:28] Generally, recipes are metric because they're easier to scale, better to control, and more accurate, right? But from zero to a hundred uh degrees C, right, to the tenth, because most circulators are accurate to the tenth, there would be one thousand gradations. And from 32.0 degrees Fahrenheit to 212 degrees Fahrenheit, there would be 1800 gradations, meaning a higher degree of accuracy. I switched it regardless because most of the info out there is in Celsius slash metric, but for some reason, it seems that Imperial measurement might be better in this instance. Am I crazy?
+
+[36:58] Is it so little of a difference? It is easier to keep it metric because everything else is in the kitchen. By the way, uh the homemade circulator I have is running great. Thanks for the great podcast. And then you cut off who wrote it.
+
+[37:07] I don't have who wrote it. Anyway, we'll get it. Uh so here's the thing. No, you are not crazy. The Fahrenheit, and I've said this a long time, is a uh like it's uh it's a finer gradation.
+
+[37:18] This is why when I'm talking about the temperature outside, I always talk in Fahrenheit because you know, like, oh, it's 20 degrees out, it's it's great. What? It doesn't make any sense. Like Celsius degrees don't make any sense to me for the climate. Like I like a climate where like, you know, like zero is really, really, really, really cold, and like a hundred is really, really hot, and a hundred and twenty is really, really hot, and minus twenty is really, really, really, really cold, but all those things happen.
+
+[37:45] That's like a wide range. For climate, I use Fahrenheit. For deep frying, I use Fahrenheit. For baking, I use Fahrenheit, right? Because 375, it's beaten into my head like like nobody's business.
+
+[37:56] You know what I mean? But for sous-view work, I use Celsius. So I myself am of two minds. The Celsius scaling in temperature doesn't make a difference. And there's no reason why freezing is better thought of as zero versus thirty-two.
+
+[38:11] And there's no reason that boiling is better being thought of uh as a hundred versus two hundred and twelve. There's simply no reason. There's no better or worse with the scales, and uh there are more gradations without using tenths uh when you're talking about degrees in Fahrenheit. So uh, you know, it's really, you know, it's it's your choice, and I use them both. That there unlike uh decimal systems for scaling, there is no advantage to a Celsius, there's no inherent advantage to a Celsius degree, except in keeping it consistent, and if you're doing conversions back and forth using uh formula, for instance, if you're doing like ideal gas law computations or things like this, it's helpful to use Celsius because it scales to Kelvin, and then Kelvin can be used in ideal gas laws and stuff.
+
+[38:54] But if you're not doing that kind of stuff, it really doesn't make uh uh uh you know an iota of difference, right? That's chip. Hey Chip, that's my thoughts. Um before we leave, because Jack's gonna make us leave uh very soon, uh, giving a shout out because a listener wrote in uh Sarah Valentine from Brooklyn, but not from Bushwick. So probably not maybe not a hipster, right?
+
+[39:20] Hopefully. Anyway, she wrote in saying that uh wow, nuts. Well, there's also the Williamsburg Hipster. What's worse, a Bushwick hipster or a Williamsburg hipster? Williamsburg.
+
+[39:29] Whoa! Where do you live, Jack? Uh whatever. Okay. Uh so um Sarah Valentine writes in, friends with our uh, you know, our longtime listener buddy Ken Ingber.
+
+[39:43] And uh Ken has gotten her and her husband into sous vide cooking. They bought the uh and low temperature cooking, bought the under pressure, except maybe someday they'll buy weepop soupy pots uh uh circulator. But uh here we go. Said wants us to give a shout out, and this is our first actual shout-out like this, right? A shout-out for Ken Ingber's birthday on July 2nd uh before our next show.
+
+[40:08] So this is Ken Ken Ingber's birthday shout out from Cooking Issues. See you next week. Thanks for listening to this program on the Heritage Radio Network. You can find all of our archived programs on Heritage Radio Network.com, as well as a schedule of upcoming live shows. You can also podcast all of our programs on iTunes by searching Heritage Radio Network in the iTunes Store.
+
+[40:42] You can find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter for up-to-date news and information. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program was brought to you by our friends at the International Culinary Center. For more information, visit www.nternationalculinary center dot com. Broadcasting live from Bushwick, Brooklyn, you're listening to Heritage Radio Network.org. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold.
+
+[0:26] You're a host of Cooking Issues coming to you live at Reverse Pizzeria every Tuesday from roughly 12 to roughly 1245 on the Heritage Radio Network.org, Jack.org. Oh man. Yeah. Joined as always with uh Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, keeping the cooking issues machine running. Jack.
+
+[0:43] And of course, today we have a special guest, special guest producer, Aaron Marks, who bid for this uh guest producing spot uh at uh the last museum of food and drink uh fundraiser that we had. Right? Right? Uh now uh you know Aaron's actually working on an interesting uh food-related project right now, which I'm gonna let him talk about in a second. But remember, call in your questions to 718497-2128, that's 7184972128.
+
+[1:10] Now, Aaron, aside from bidding on this uh great thing and being with us today, was uh uh a long time ago, not that long, I guess, a member of my favorite Great Satan, which is uh the Gold Goldman Sachs, which I've always had actually a soft spot for strange, because I love history of finance is a great thing. He's not doing that anymore. Uh he is in fact working on a project called Deconstructing Dinner. You want to talk about that? Yeah.
+
+[1:33] And maybe about the Great Satan, because I love those things. Well we'll leave we'll leave my past out of it. Uh it's not it doesn't really sit well with a lot of people, but uh I have turned my passions towards uh towards my my my hobbies uh really, which is food uh and restaurants. So we are produced a documentary called Deconstructing Dinner on the Farm to Table movement, um, really to educate people on on the origins of food. Um really kind of the twist here is is that we we focus on individual staple ingredients.
+
+[1:59] Uh we've been filming with a couple really excellent chefs, Michael Anthony last week, Heather Carlucci in New York. We did the pilot with Michael Statlander on pork up in Toronto. He has a beautiful farm up there. And uh to supplement all the these great mini-series, uh we we have uh some webisodes and and a lot of extra bonus material that that linked these award-winning chefs in. So we're we're really excited for it.
+
+[2:21] We uh we're in the process of fundraising at the moment. Uh we need uh about sixty thousand dollars by July 20th. Uh you can check us out on the Kickstarter campaign. Uh we just we just passed a hundred backers online. Um so we're doing well.
+
+[2:33] Uh it's deconstructing dinner on Kickstarter. And you uh you've already filmed one of the last time I spoke with you is what you were working on eight or nine episodes. Yeah, we've we've uh we're focused on six at the moment. Um we have uh each of them is gonna be uh garlic or wheat or eggs. We we just did uh uh a shot on honey uh in a farm outside of New York.
+
+[2:52] Um and uh March 2013, spring 2013 is when we we hope we have a finished product. Right, and you're uh is he the is Declan the uh the director or the producer both? Uh, Declan Adriscal is uh Declan Adriscal and John Steim are the two two folks that I'm partnering with on this. Uh Declan is the filmmaker behind this. Uh he won a James Beard Award uh last year for his documentary called called Milk War, uh which was about raw milk.
+
+[3:17] Uh very fascinating story. And uh John Steinman is is kind of the I I guess I refer to him as the Mark Bittman of Canada. Uh he he he he's so well versed in in the the the farm to table movement uh and he he uh he does a lot of speech he goes around speaking about it. Um so he he actually had a radio show by the same name, Deconstructing Dinner, uh, and this is the reincarnation onto the screen. Nice.
+
+[3:39] So go to Kickstarter and go look at deconstructing dinner on Kickstarter. Exactly. That or just go to Deconstructing dinner.com. Right. All right, nice.
+
+[3:44] All right, very good. All right, so uh and uh Aaron also brought me I was been re we were talking last time we were talking about uh Michael Lewis, the uh the financial writer, and uh he I he just brought me a copy of the big short to read. I actually read his later book, Boomerang, which if you if any of you guys aren't interested in uh kind of financial history, I'm not interested in finances at all. I really could give a rat's behind about my own finances. I've never otherwise we I guess we'd be rich, right?
+
+[4:10] But anyway, uh but uh I don't really care about it, but I love I love myself some financial history, and I've sadly have been um you know lacking in recent financial history until uh Maria Gordon Shelley, our publisher for you know uh for my cocktail book and coming up, gave me a Michael Lewis book, and uh now Aaron you know brought me the other one. So hopefully I'm gonna be up to date uh with our current financial woes and the amusing history behind it uh very soon. Right? Yeah, well Michael Lewis is a great writer. Yeah.
+
+[4:36] Anyway, okay. Now on to questions. By the way, uh this one in from Pete actually gave a call out to Indie Jesus, but I'd like our our readers to know uh listeners to know that I have not seen Indy Jesus in a long time. Jack, have you seen Indy Jesus? I see.
+
+[4:49] I mean, I don't think he's working this shift anymore, but I have to say, really nice guy. Yeah, but is does he not work the shift because of his hatred for us? I mean, I guess it's possible, but I I I would guess not. No? No, no.
+
+[4:59] I mean, Jesus probably shouldn't have any hatred in him. There are plenty of other interesting characters around though. We just need to coin a name for somebody. All right. Well, for those of you that you know have never heard Indy Jesus is a waiter here who is uh looks like Jesus in in kind of indie rock clothes, and I I miss him.
+
+[5:15] I miss seeing Indy Jesus during the during the broadcast. I think he made our broadcast better just by his presence. It's true. Yeah. We had didn't we have a Manson Jesus for a while.
+
+[5:24] There are plenty of Manson Jesus'. Oh, that was at a coffee event. That was a different Manson Jesus was at a different event. Sorry. Okay.
+
+[5:31] Okay, love the podcast. I've been blitzing through your back catalog quickly as I just discovered it recently. Keep up the great work and thank you. Thank you. Question.
+
+[5:37] I recently purchased a combi steam oven. I wanted a small oven for day-to-day stuff, and I love to bake bread, and there's nothing that compares the steam for making that amazing crust. The oven does a great job with things like soft-boiled eggs in large quantities and steam fist, etc. And it has very precise temperature controls, which got me thinking I could use this bad boy for low-temp cooking in sous vide. And I would love to get your thoughts.
+
+[5:56] Pete, okay. Um okay, look. I don't know you you gotta write in and tell me what brand of combi oven you have. Uh uh the smaller ones, there used to be one made by Electrolux that kind of fit on a counter that was uh maybe microwave size or a little bit bigger. And uh of course Gaganao makes one that's fantastically expensive if you can afford Gaganau uh appliances in your home.
+
+[6:16] God bless. Um but um Combi Steve Oven, for those of you that don't know, is an oven that uses a combination of steam technology and convection technology, and recently have been used in restaurants to do uh low temperature cooking because they have very accurate temperature controls. And the reason they have accurate temperature controls is because they need accuracy to be able to uh be able to achieve the results that they want to achieve without any sort of human intervention. And the byproduct is that we get to use it for very accurate low temperature work, typically by setting uh the temperature of the oven below uh the boiling point, well below, uh, you know, down to like you know, uh 55 Celsius thereabouts, and 100% humidity, which gives good thermal uh transfer. Now uh commercial combi ovens are in the on average, the higher end ones, rationale being one and um uh electrolux being another, and uh there's you know several others, um, on average they are fairly accurate, but at any given second their temperature can fluctuate quite a bit, and it's because they inject steam into the cavity which shoots the temperature up, uh then the temperature goes down, they shoot more steam, it goes up, up, up, up, up.
+
+[7:24] So the answer is for very thin items, it does not work very well for low temperature cooking because those thin items can't handle the short-term over temp that you go through as the temperature porpoises back and forth. Uh thicker items can withstand that. Uh so the temperature of you know, modernist cuisine, um, Chris Young who's on the show and Nathan Miravold uh said the same thing in Maxime Belay when they were here, all you know, talked about this uh very interesting data that they had, which was they actually measured the temperature of combi ovens using many kind of high accuracy um uh temperature probes and showed that there was uh when I say wide, I'm talking like tens of degrees variation uh from second to second based on the internal temperature of the cavity. Now, how can you uh test this? Set your oven to a hundred percent steam, set the temperature to some temperature well below boiling, uh, and then test it with something simple like an egg.
+
+[8:16] If you stick an egg in there uh and after an hour the uh at sixty-two Celsius, and after an hour the yolk is still runny, but the it cracks out of the egg and has kind of a the the white has a very kind of, you know, uh custardy texture, I think, then that's a good sixty-two egg. You're pretty much good. Uh if you then set it to sixty three, go for an hour, and it's got a very creamy yolk, but it's all one texture, very creamy like a sauce almost, uh, then you've produced an accurate sixty-three degree egg. If you go to sixty-four degrees uh and your yolk is just set, just set, but still very, very soft, you have a very accurate sixty-four degree egg on a large egg. And these are extremely simple and extremely accurate and reliable temperature tests for um your combi to see whether or not you are getting the actual temperatures that you think you are getting.
+
+[9:07] If those three numbers come out right, then you're good. You know what I mean? And in fact, if your oven is repeatably wrong, right, you you can dial up or down a degree or two and figure out what your thing is actually set to. So if if if what I tell you is a 60 uh three degree egg actually happens at 65, well your oven's about two degrees hot uh in terms of the way that it it works, as long as the the humidity is a hundred percent. Ervate's made a a huge error uh you know those th those who know me know I'm no fan of Airvete's you know this is a well known fact I'm no fan of him or his his writing or his demagoguery.
+
+[9:43] But he believes that a 65 degrees Celsius uh egg is still runny uh and he did all of his tests in an oven and the reason his um the reason his numbers are completely wrong is because they weren't done in a hundred percent humidity environment and uh they were actually steam moisture was evaporating out of the egg during the process thereby lowering the temperature of uh the inside of the egg through evaporative cooling and because there was evaporative cooling the inside of the egg was roughly three degrees uh or so lower than the actual oven temperature was even though he was fairly accurately controlling his oven temperature. Just goes to show it happened when you don't really think about what you're doing, Airvay. Anyway, uh enough b bashing on uh Erve that that answers that question yeah? Yes. Yeah?
+
+[10:28] Yeah? Okay. And it presupposes that all eggs are the same. Yeah. Uh well, all large chicken eggs act I mean I'm talking this isn't just um this isn't like one or two eggs I've cooked over like for the past you know seven years I've been cooking a bazillion eggs uh as part of a teaching um you know it's part of teaching over the years.
+
+[10:49] And uh in the restaurant at the French culinary and at home. And I can pretty much tell whether or not equipment is right by how a large chicken egg is cooked in terms of time. Uh you know, other eggs might be slightly different, but the major ones, for instance, like some people have reported like slightly different temperatures on things like duck. I don't have any experience on ostrich eggs or things like that, although I have friends that do. Uh but they're pretty accurate, reliable measures of um of temperature.
+
+[11:19] You know, at least that's been that's been my experience. And they're incredibly cheap. And they're much easier to implement uh than trying to rig actual accurate um thermometers in your in your oven. I mean it's possible to rig an accurate thermometer, but you have to get a good rig. And uh, you know, on top of that, you have to mean it you can just go to a supermarket and buy a bunch of eggs.
+
+[11:42] Set the sucker at 63. Well what I would really set it at 63 Celsius, right? And then see whether the egg is set or whether it's runny or whether it's creamy. If it's creamy, you're dead on, right? If it's runny, then your oven is low.
+
+[11:54] And if it's set, then your oven is high, assuming you have a hundred percent humidity in that oven. That's another assumption that you gotta make. And then later on, if you want to get accurate thermocouples, you can test it and see what's going on, blah, blah, blah. But the reason I chose an egg is an egg is fairly thick. It takes uh a good um it takes a good hour for the very center of an egg to get uh within a half a degree or so of the temperature of uh in a water bath, that is.
+
+[12:19] So if you have a 10 minute fluctuation in temperature in your oven, an egg should be thick enough that most of that temperature fluctuation is taken up by the egg white and not by the egg yolk. And so you shouldn't get any over or under temp effects in the yolk after an hour of cooking because it should have evened out by then. That's why egg good choice, cutlet not so much. You know what I mean? Yeah.
+
+[12:40] Anyway, okay. Uh what'd you say, Jack? You say something? No, I didn't. Yeah?
+
+[12:46] Should we go to our first commercial break? Yeah. Commercial break. Come back. Cooking issues.
+
+[12:51] If you want to be a great chef, you can't learn everything from within the walls of a classroom. That's why the French Culinary Institute has evolved into the International Culinary Center. When you come here, you don't just learn basic culinary skills. You come to understand and to feel the whole culinary world. You have to network.
+
+[13:08] You have to observe the true meaning of world-class performance. You have to intern at some of the world's great restaurants. At the International Culinary Center's campuses in New York, California, and Italy, we will expose you to the whole of the culinary world, one that is evolving daily at a very high speed. The International Culinary Center offers a wide range of courses, including culinary, pastry, and bread baking to Italian wine management, culinary technology, and food writing. For more information, visit International Culinary Center.com.
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+[13:54] Why? Why? Welcome back to Picking Your Shoes. You're listening to Propeller by Bluetooth. Wow.
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+[14:16] You're pulling out all the old, all the old Bluetooth songs from the college days. Oh yeah. That like that song, I can remember playing that song wearing a uh flight helmet with a blast shield down with my fingers like spraying blood out of the base and the lead singer smashing me on the head with a microphone and that was a the nineties, the early nineties. Good times. Good times.
+
+[14:38] Anyway, uh we should we should probably see whether or not listeners mind being uh assaulted with uh my old college band. Because we could just move to you know, Jack's music. Anyway. Uh second question in. I'm fermenting two types of vinegar in my basement now.
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+[14:52] The first is a beer barley malt syrup vanilla vinegar, and the other is a bourbon buckwheat honey caraway seed vinegar. I'm using the method from ideasandfood.com with the live culture vinegar as a starter that is added to the alcohol mixture. The beer version was complete after three weeks, and the bourbon is already on week five. How long should I wait for the bourbon version before I start over? I'm thinking the alcohol content was too high for fermentation.
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+[15:14] Any thoughts, Elliot Papanell? Okay. Uh I looked for uh, you know, our good friend's Ide Ideas and Food, Alex Nacke. Uh I looked on their website for their vinegar method and wasn't able to find any explicit instructions on their website proper, but they did publish a uh an article on it in Popular Science. When they I are they still writing for Popular Science?
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+[15:34] Anyone know? I don't know. Uh but anyway, I looked at their popular science article um on it and in fact found a um a maple syrup uh a maple syrup um what's the word I'm looking for? Maple syrup rum vinegar base that they they made their vinegar out of. And so I'm assuming, Elliot, that you're basing it on on that technique.
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+[15:55] Uh here's what I'm thinking. There's a couple of things that can go wrong in uh vinegar. So vinegar, for those of you that uh have no idea how vinegar is made, you take a uh fairly low concentration of alcohol product uh and then acetobacter uh acetobacter acts on the alcohol and converts the ethanol to vinegar. Now, uh in the Ideas and Food uh recipe, they use 950 grams of maple syrup, which is a lot of freaking maple syrup, because it's eight they use 950 grams of maple syrup, 800 grams of what they call a live vinegar, which is a vinegar that is currently has active acetobacter in it, right? Um so assuming you're already making vinegar, you have some vinegar sitting around that's still live, so it has active acetobacter in it.
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+[16:40] Uh 300 grams of dark rum and 200 grams of water. If you calculate this all out, uh uh and I calculated it based on the assumption that the maple syrup was about eighty uh bricks, meaning eighty percent sugar and about twenty percent water, uh, you're gonna end up with a an alcohol, uh a water vinegar slash ethanol mix that's roughly uh 11% uh uh alcohol, I think. I gotta go look at my calculations again. I did it on Excel this morning, but I think it's roughly 11% alcohol, which is a good number, maybe even lower, maybe it's like eight, I forget, but it's a good number for acetobacter to work on. I was a little concerned uh with this that the because the bricks of this mixture is like 30%.
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+[17:22] It's very high bricks. Uh that bricks meaning bri bricks is the percent uh of uh of the weight of your product that is sugar. That's what bricks means. Uh and uh if you do the calculations, I think this mixture that that Ideas and Food has uh ends up about 30 bricks. There's good news and there's bad news with that, I mean, high bricks things usually tend to inhibit the uh action of bacteria because they really mess with um what's called osmoregulation, the ability uh for the cells to keep uh water, uh their water balance uh proper.
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+[17:50] But balsamic vinegar uh is uh made with musts that are even higher bricks than this. So clearly acetobacter can uh work in these environments. You are probably, and this is a good thing if you want to keep the sugar in it, if you want it to stay very sugary, uh the high sugar level and the massive acidity from the pre-made vinegar is almost surely inhibiting the uh inhibiting any further yeast activity. Uh basically, as soon as uh as soon as the uh acidity gets higher than about a percent or so, especially in it with a lot of the yeast is gonna have a tough uh time anyway with uh 30% bricks, really tough time. Uh and uh you know you need you'd need special yeasts anyway that were very sugar tolerant to be able to go up that high.
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+[18:35] And um and then within combination with that, with the fact that they're already using vinegar or yeast is not going to be a problem in this mixture. Uh so it should work. So your problems are probably you went too high in the alcohol and the acetobacter can't uh work, in which case dilute it some more and throw some fresh uh vinegar mother in. You can order, you know, uh acetobacter cultures and uh off of the internets. Uh two, you could have, although it doesn't sound like your ingredients in there like you have any preservatives that are gonna cause a problem, like uh or like chlorine can be a problem sometimes, or or whether you have uh sulfites because you're not adding a sulfited wine to it, so that's probably not a problem.
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+[19:07] You could have a problem with not enough oxygen contact if your vessel's not proper or if it's sealed too hard, or if you because acetobacter needs oxygen to live. So uh any one of these things can be a problem. Uh if you want to read more about vinegar, the book, like the book, is Vinegars of the World by uh Lisa, uh edited by Lisa Solieri and uh Paolo uh Giudici uh from uh 2009. Fantastical book, and they have uh sections on almost any kind of vinegar that you could um you could want. But you should uh take take a look at that one.
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+[19:38] Right? That makes sense? Yeah. Or you started with some dead dead vinegar too. That's the other thing, right?
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+[19:43] I would just look. If you don't already have a lot of vinegar lying around, just buy some freaking culture. Don't worry about trying to like go buy apple cider vinegar from a natural health food store and hope that it works. I've had this problem when uh culturing buttermilk, trying to make uh cultured butter, and you buy certain strains of certain things, even if they're not pasteurized, and it turns out that they're bacteriologically dead because they've been around a long time and the bacteria haven't survived enough for things to happen. So, uh I mean eventually you can you know do things based on wild cultures or just luck and hope and prayer, but you know, at the outset, if you want to make sure your results are good and your recipe is good, just start with a purchase culture.
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+[20:18] It's not that hard to get a hold of and it's fairly easy. That's my uh suggestion. Okay. Uh Tristan in Virginia writes in, hey everyone. I'm tenderizing pork shoulder in my home pressure cooker, and many uh and many recommendations I've seen online recommend the natural release method of pressure instead of quick releasing, citing a few manufacturers' websites and mainly Lorna Sass, an author of a pressure cooking cookbook.
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+[20:38] Sass strongly recommends natural release for meat, especially beef, claiming the fibers will be more tender. Why would a slower ramp down in pressure affect the meat fibers and why would beef behave more differently from pork or any other meat, assuming a similar leanness and connective tissue? Thanks from Tristan. Pressure cooking and uh natural release. Okay, so for those of you that don't know what the hell I'm talking about, uh pressure cookers, uh you seal your object in a in a pressure cooker, you heat it.
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+[21:03] Uh by by sealing it, you allow a pressure to build up that increases your temperature at which things cook. Things cook faster. They also cook differently. So an egg white, an egg, whole egg cooked in a pressure cooker turns brown because at the elevated temperatures in a pressure cooker, roughly 259 degrees Fahrenheit for 15 PSI over pressure at boiling, uh assuming straight water that is, uh egg whites will turn brown in an hour due to my hard reactions at the slightly elevated temperatures uh inside of a pressure cooker. Things like garlic, uh you destroy their pungency.
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+[21:33] We've we've talked about this before. I love pressure cookers, I love me some pressure cookers. But I also almost always recommend a natural release. And what that means is when you have a pressure cooker at 15 psi and you turn off the heat, it's going to keep on cooking for a while. That's just simply uh all there is to it.
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+[21:47] This is one of the good things about a pressure cooker, by the way, is that they take very once you get them hot, it takes a very, very low input of energy to keep them cooking because they're sealed, they don't throw a lot of heat on from the atmosphere. So in the summertime, even though you don't necessarily want to eat a lot of braises and stews in the summertime, it's an extremely efficient way to not heat up your house and do cooking, right? It also uses a very low amount of energy for the amount of uh cooking you can do in it. So it's it's great all around. But uh now you're stuck with a pot and it's gonna keep cooking.
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+[22:18] So there's usually there's some way to open the pot to the atmosphere and steam rockets out of it, right? That's the quick release, and even quicker sometimes release is to plunge the pot into cold water, which you know instantly lowers the pressure, sometimes even faster than releasing the steam. Uh or you just let it sit and let the pressure come down naturally as it cools, the pressure will come down. As soon as it gets below 212 degrees on the inside, there will be no more pressure on the vessel, and you can open it up with no problem. Now, uh I think you are absolutely correct, uh, Tristan, in that uh I don't think it makes a damn bit of difference whether it's beef, pork, chicken, fish, or whatever.
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+[22:54] I think you should almost always use natural release on anything that's delicate at all. Because what happens is um when you are when you release the pressure very suddenly, the water on the inside and outside and everywhere tends to violently boil. And what it does is rip things apart. And so the easiest thing to see it on is uh uh like if you pressure cook an egg and you open it very, very quickly, uh by opening stink you'll you you can blow the egg up. You know what I mean?
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+[23:21] Not violently, like microwave blowing up is violent, but you'll crack the eggs open. Uh if you've ever pressure cooked a can of evaporated uh sweetened condensed milk rather to make uh dulce de leche, you'll know that unless you let the can heat uh cool down quite a bit, when you open it, it'll squirt product everywhere because all of a sudden the pressure is is released. Beans tend to explode it if they're if they're released too suddenly. And the texture of meats can be very uh highly affected by uh violent sudden release. So I unless you know that your product is like really rough and tough and can handle the abuse of interior boiling, or unless you actually want to shred something apart by interior boiling, I almost always recommend uh natural release on a pressure cooker instead of allowing it to to to vent to the atmosphere.
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+[24:06] Sometimes it doesn't matter, but often uh often it does. You do any pressure cooking, Aaron? I don't do much cooking at all, actually. I uh I grew up in New York, so it's my kitchen was about the size of most people's closets. Yeah, yeah, that's true.
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+[24:17] You know what cooking in New York, a lot of people have problems cooking in New York. Uh there's size and also ventilation is a big issue. Everyone's apartment in New York is horribly ventilated for cooking. So any time you actually do try and cook, you uh you end up uh making the entire and then everyone's like, Oh, it smells of food. Yeah, but oil caked all over your ceiling is never pleasant.
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+[24:35] We have uh uh a call in from the studio if it's okay. This is Patrick Martins, by the way, who's uh he's like a uh what's up. I'm born and raised in New York City, and I've lived in some you know apartments, very, very small kitchens. I will say this it forces one to become better uh at very minimal ingredients, like for instance, cook or you know, uh techniques like cooking perfectly medium rare, you know, because you don't really have the luxury of space to be brazing and have like a Julia Child kitchen with stuff all over the place, but you do know how not to overcook a chicken because it's you alone with that thing and a pot of vegetables, you know. But I think brazing is fairly space efficient though, no?
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+[25:13] Like one pot braising? Um no, no, well, I don't know. You know what I mean? It's just like all these recipes. Everyone comes to the heritage meet shop, hey, give me a Boston butt because I want to do a 19-hour breeze, and I'm gonna make seven reduction sauces, you know, and me growing up in the city in a little, you know, stove pot.
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+[25:29] You know, I'm just like, let me just heat some meat perfectly and dip it in mustard, you know, something like that. Just simple, not trying to get too gastronomic about it. All right. All right. Yeah.
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+[25:42] What do you think about that, Nastasha? Uh I agree. I especially don't want to be in my apartment with no air conditioning for 18 hours braising something. You know, that's uh didn't I just tell you guys to buy a freaking pressure cooker if you're gonna brace? Did I not just get through telling you guys to buy a pressure cooker so that you're not heating up your apartment when you're doing a brace?
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+[25:59] Did anyone not hear me say that? We heard you. I heard you. Yeah, or the fact that in general you don't want braises in the freaking summertime. We heard you.
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+[26:06] Yeah. But you know what, you know what your New York City tiny apartment's not good at? Grilling a freaking steak. True. Yeah.
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+[26:13] I rely on my foreman every now and then. Oh, the foreman, you know, I never had one of those. A genius. Like George Foreman has nothing to do with cooking, right? At all.
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+[26:22] Nothing. They're like, hey, you're a good boxer, you have a bunch of children all named George. Why don't you be the rep for this product? He does have uh a talent in shaking and bacon though. Is that what he used to say when he was fighting?
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+[26:29] Are you actually referring to shaking baking and shit? Shaking and bacon. He did call him uh he did refer to himself as doing that once. But David Nelson of MPR, uh Lost and Found Sound, did a story on George Foreman Grill saying that it basically allowed uh homeless people to have a kitchen. I mean, if they just could get access to an outlet, they could basically prepare meals like people in their home.
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+[26:52] So it was a very kind of democrat uh, you know, project, more than people give it credit for. Wait, wait, wait. Homeless people could feel like they had home. Oh, homeless people who have the money for a George Foreman grill and an electric socket. Have you seen that movie about the mole people?
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+[27:07] Finding an electric socket. The mole people used to have the people used to live in what's called the Freedom Oh you could wait. Patrick, you can't leave after dropping that thing on. No. But I mean the vast majority of people that have no home also have no access to electric power.
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+[27:43] I mean that's true, that's true. But I mean you can get access. Damn it, if someone was like, get me access to an electrical outlet, I would do it. I would still figure it out somehow, even if I'm like going into the Middle Eastern restaurant around the corner and just borrowing his electricity for ten minutes. But I mean it did allow them to have a carry around portable kitchen.
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+[28:01] I mean, not a full kitchen, of course, but they could heat meat and grill like, you know. This has to be one of the craziest conversations we've ever had on the cooking issues radio show. You know, I'll tell you this though. When I lived in a dorm room and didn't have yeah, uh when I lived in a dorm room and didn't have uh a kitchen, I went to the thrift shop and bought a Westinghouse turkey oven from the 50s and used it to bake bread. I mean that was kind of my first oven away from home was this kind of thrift store oven.
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+[28:25] So dorm rooms mean. Yeah, uh guy cooked everything in a hot pot back then. Yeah, it's kinda like being homeless with the world's greatest support network around you, is what you're saying? With like everyone like just catering to every need that you have and not forcing you to have any responsibility other than that, completely like the real world. No offense to you college students out there.
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+[28:44] Anyway, uh I loved college. Nastasha's the only person who didn't like college. True? True. True.
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+[28:51] Yeah. All right. This is a this is a crazy day. Okay. Uh hello, Jack and Nastasha and Dave as well.
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+[28:57] Uh hope you guys are doing well with all the heat out there. My question has to do with sugar substitutes. I grew up being afraid of NutraSweet, sweet and low, aka saccharin, and other sugar substitutes, thinking that they cause cancer and lead to birth defects. I know that NutraSweet is banned in other countries, which is not to slightly look other can't countries ban lots of other weird things, by the way. Like what another country does, or our country for that matter, uh you know, isn't really a measure necessarily of whether something is safe or not, is a measure of whether or not there's enough of a public outcry based sometimes in fact and sometimes not.
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+[29:26] Uh anyway, uh banned in other countries. Uh my wife likes to drink diet soda, and I cringe when she does. Uh this just so you guys know. Uh for me I drink almost exclusively seltzer now, but for many, many years I only drank diet soda. That was what I drank.
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+[29:40] Uh because I grew up drinking it. That was my liquid of choice. And uh before I even finish this question, I will tell anyone out here who's gonna work for the who's buying things for their grill or barbecue or party for 4th of July tomorrow. If you are a regular soda drinker, you are going to purchase the incorrect amount of diet soda. Okay?
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+[29:58] This is you are going to get the wrong amount. Here's the here's how it works. When you are purchasing soda for a party, realize that someone who drinks a sugarful soda, let's just say Coke, right? Uh uh the average soda drinker will have maybe one glass of that coke, right? So a two-liter bottle will serve a good number of people for Coca-Cola, right?
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+[30:19] The average diet coke drinker will finish the entire freaking two-liter bottle themselves because they're gonna sit there and pound Diet Coke like the f like like nobody's freaking business. So I guarantee you that unless you yourself are a diet soda drinker, you underbuy your diet soda. Anyone here anyone here, what do you think? Agree, disagree? Well, I'll be drinking beer tomorrow.
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+[30:38] Yeah, well I'm saying so much about soda drinkers. What? Like we say you say that you don't care about your guests? Most guests drink. I think they're just gonna drink soda tomorrow.
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+[30:49] Oh my god. People, you people, you you know, people. Anyway, I'm just telling you, if you're gonna get a non-alcoholic drink, you're you're you're you should have at least no less than one to one on diet to regular soda. No less. And in fact, you should probably have for whatever your non-alcoholic basis, if you're gonna do soda, you should have two two-thirds diet and one third regular.
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+[31:11] That's in general, you know, whatever. Anyway, if I'm coming, just get seltzer. You need some non alcoholic stuff. I mean, beer is relatively low in alcohol, so you can pound that all day. But if you're sitting there pounding wine after wine after wine after wine after one, you need some non alcoholic product.
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+[31:24] I mean, as we all know, water is wretched. Uh just kidding. I just happen to not drink water. I drink I drink seltzer only. Okay, sorry, back to the question.
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+[31:32] Uh my wife likes to drink diet soda and I cringe when she does. Is that rational or just paranoid? What re what research uh and studies have been done around the safety of sugar substitutes, which are safe and which are not? What is the process of their production? Lastly, I've heard about isomalt and manitol, sugars that are used for culinary purposes and not for diet sodas necessarily.
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+[31:51] What is the deal with those in terms of safety? And aside aside from that, uh what is their culinary value in the kitchen? Finally, I was in New York briefly and went down to uh the bar, that's Booker and Dax, our bar. The drinks are awesome, but there were no pretzels. Please put some on the menu.
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+[32:05] Maybe we should have some pretzels on the menu. Yeah. Martin Brothers? Sounds good. Martin Martin pretzels, because they're the best.
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+[32:10] Uh thanks so much for keeping the airwaves delicious. Brian in San Francisco. Okay. First of all, isomalt and manitol are used uh because uh well isomalt is used uh a lot in confectionary with uh kind of higher end uh what's it like technological cooking because it doesn't absorb moisture as much, doesn't turn as brown as much uh when you're cooking it into a caramel, it's nice and hard. So you use it a lot in um in blown sugar work or in confectioner, or if you look at like what Ferran and those guys do making those and Jose Andres and making those uh those like isomalt packages with the with the uh olive oil in them.
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+[32:47] So they're they're they're great for that. And they're slightly less uh there's less sweet than sugar. So they have a lot of the structural properties of sugar without uh all the sweetness. Manitole is a little you know a little bit different. I don't really use that one in the kitchen.
+
+[32:59] Um but let's go back to what I think is the important part of the question here is is are uh what what what are called non nutritive sweeteners, are they dangerous or not? And uh the the short answer is is all the research points to them not being dangerous. Every actual bit of current scientific research points to non nutritive sweeteners being absolutely uh fine from a uh health perspective. Now, um, you know, uh, and you know, you can look at, and I I can't even believe that I'm uh quoting these guys because I don't, you know, it's not my normal thing. And and again, I'm not usually a health guy, I'm not the guy to ask health questions of.
+
+[33:37] But if you read the the recent paper, for instance, in 2012, the position of the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics, which, you know, again, for any of you who've ever listened to me uh go on a rant and rave about this, you know that uh I have uh big problems with the entire um uh n nutritionist kind of um outlook on things because it keeps changing. All all the data, all the ideas, like what's good, what's bad, keep changing every every year, what changes. Salt's good, salt's bad, this is good, this is bad. So I tend to I tend to regard every every piece of information as horse hockey uh except for the one that I always go back to, which is eat uh eat a moderate amount of a wide variety of things. I mean, I'm overweight right now, and it's because I eat too much freaking food.
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+[34:18] It's because I eat an absurd amount of freaking food. My total caloric consumption is way higher than it should be. And that's that's the God's truth. It doesn't matter which kind of calorie I'm consuming, I'm consuming too much of it. Okay, that said.
+
+[34:30] Uh the position of the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics uh does and you should look at this. Cindy uh Fitch uh PhD and Catherine Kime PhD were the uh the main authors on it, and it's they do an exhaustive review of all of the studies. Uh aspartame, which is nutrition. Uh a lot of people used to worry about aspartame because it has the warning on it, phenol ketinor uh about phenyl ketinuria, which is a basically it's a genetic disorder. If you have it, you know you have it.
+
+[34:57] You were tested at birth. And yes, uh, you know, your brain can be damaged because you don't um you don't metabolize uh phenolalanine, which is an amino acid also present in proteins, uh, you don't metabolize it properly. And when nutrition is broken down in the body, it creates an excess of phenylalanine in the system, and so you should be aware of it. For all the rest of us, uh that's fine. Uh and uh there've never been uh any study, uh or there's no current study anyway that shows that there's been any sort of um problem with it.
+
+[35:28] Uh and the average consumption, even for people who pound diet soda all day, according to this article, is uh below um your your, you know, your recommended maximum uh daily intake that have any issues. Saccharin uh was uh banned because there was uh some uh bladder cancer studies in rats in I think the 70s, late 70s or 80s. And the uh the the problem was is that uh they were feeding these rats an absurd amount of uh saccharin, and it turns out that uh that all of the actual studies done uh and this is the major studies done um with people uh over time measuring their incidence of uh bladder cancer or other cancers with sacchar intake have shown that uh in fact it's not uh in fact it's not true. Uh and and um and uh basically the government uh realizes this, but they're not going back like anyway. The the point is that there's no current studies that anyone can uh point to.
+
+[36:19] Uh there's no studies that haven't been debunked that show that saccharin causes uh any any sort of uh problem. Uh sucralose um uh sucralose again, uh in other words, like all of the ones that are being used, even cyclomates, which were the first one to be banned because of cancer studies. Current research seems to show that cyclates uh don't actually cause uh any any sort of cancer. Sucralose, I'll just give you a gross fact about it. You don't break it down so you pee and poop it out.
+
+[36:44] So theoretically, if you eat a lot of sucrose, your pee and poop will be sweet if you were to try it. Uh I I wouldn't go ahead and try it, but I'm just saying uh like that's that's uh the case. Um so the long story short, uh every single piece of evidence I was able to find that was not put out by a crank or a quack goes to show that uh non-nutrient sweeteners are uh fine to use. Uh whether you think that they're gross from a mental perspective and therefore should not be used because they're an abomination, because what you should do is uh eat products that are made with care and that taste good and that non-nutrient sweeteners taste bad and not like real sugar and therefore uh are an abomination, I think that's a valid point. Uh you know, uh also uh another I tried to look at a bunch of studies that uh looked into whether or not um there the you know one of the arguments back in the day was that if you ate uh sugar substitutes, your body would have an increased uh desire for other foods, and therefore you would actually eat more because you weren't getting the sugar from the taste of sweet and they would increase your consumption of other solids and then you wouldn't regulate properly.
+
+[37:50] Apparently, all that's horse hockey too. I don't found any current studies that show that that's the case. Uh and then after I researched this, I looked at another uh interesting uh article. Uh did you know that with uh and because this comes goes back to uh what happened what was it last week, Jack, with the question on Bloomberg sugar ban? Last week?
+
+[38:10] Yeah. Uh did you know that over the past uh three years the consumption of sugar per capita in the United States has gone down? Really? Yeah, it's gone down. You know why?
+
+[38:21] Because we're drinking less freaking soda because it's gotten such bad press. So everyone is talking about, everyone's talking about all of these uh these problems. But if you actually look at the data, right, the actual current data, the data since people have been starting to scream about uh sugar being the the the evil that that you know that and in fact, like there's a the the the the the studies show that our sugar content like since that time in the past four, five, six years, has started to go down. And at the very most conservative estimates that it's leveled off. Our general caloric intake way freaking high, right?
+
+[38:57] Our general caloric intake has gone up, but uh our sugar consumption has gone down or at least stabilized. And some of these numbers I I you know I only had a couple of hours to research it so it's hard for me to make any actual pronouncements but if you go and look online, like one of the one of the articles to look at uh is called uh where is it uh Consumption of added sugars is decreasing in the United States by J.A. Welsh and AJ Sharma. Uh and they're using their data comes from the nutrition and health science uh sorry their uh data comes from the National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey. Uh so go look at that and uh you know it's just it just goes to show that these problems are much more complicated than banning sugar or or b or trying to ban sodas to to try and get rid of uh sugar consumption that sugar is uh not some sort of horrible uh poison uh you know one of the big um one of the big people out there who's anti-sugar is a doctor in California named Robert uh Lustig and he's been writing a lot of articles getting a lot of play uh and I I don't have the the time I haven't had the time to to look at his uh articles thoroughly enough to debunk what he writes in them but he writes articles with titles like fructose metabolic hedonic and societal parallels with ethanol, because basically the man thinks that sugar is a poison and a drug with uh, you know, so did KRS one, by the way, uh uh with kind of parallels to ethanol and is on an anti-sugar cake.
+
+[40:27] Interestingly, you know, this same group of doctors actually goes to show how our dietary information was so bad in the in the 70s and 80s, decrying uh fat as the enemy, and that those low fat diets actually uh caused a lot of problems, uh including obesity and and whatnot, and then fail to recognize that their own insistence on sugar as being the ultimate enemy in all of these things is similarly just rotten data from a particular uh slice in time that I'm sure uh later on uh is gonna be shown that well, they were wrong for a different reason. I think again it goes back to uh and you know, I need to spend more time going to the ins and outs of uh all of the research that they cite, but um it goes back to the point that what you really want to do is eat a uh wide variety of uh foods in moderation. Yeah? Yeah? Yeah.
+
+[41:23] Oh, another thing. Tomorrow at Roberta's Pizzeria on the fourth of July, uh Kobayashi is going to be doing a hot dog eating contest sponsored, I guess by Roberta and Crift Dogs. Yeah, and I'm gonna be interviewing him. Yeah? Yeah, I mean, if all goes well.
+
+[41:37] What do you mean if all goes well? What can not go well? The man knows how to eat a hot dog. Who knows? He may just have his hands full, but they said if they can wrangle him in here for a minute, you know, I'm gonna keep the AC on.
+
+[41:46] I'll have some cold drinks, you know. The man's not gonna freaking drink anything before the cut. That's a good point. Uh but I don't think he speaks English, so it should be a fun interview. That's the best.
+
+[41:54] Do you have a translator? I think so. I hope so. Well, listen, is there any if do you you don't know if you have a translator? Hey, is there well, should I put a call out for anyone that speaks Japanese who wants to come translate for me?
+
+[42:05] I mean, he will. It's just that they said it's gonna be crazy and they hope he can come in here, and at the very least, they're promising a drop. So we'll get Kobayashi trying to say, you know, heritage radio network.org. That's gonna be awesome. It will be pretty awesome.
+
+[42:17] The man single-handedly kind of made like competitive eating like kind of a thing, right? Yeah. Yeah, absolutely. I mean, you know the whole story about him, right? Like he was banned from the contest because he wouldn't sign with the major league eating union or whatever.
+
+[42:32] You know, they have like the organization of all the eaters they're represented for competitions, and he did not want to sign with them. He wanted his own representation, so he could not compete in the Nathan's hot dog eating contest because he was not in that union. So he showed up anyway with a shirt that said free Kobe, and he kind of crashed the stage, and then the police had to kick him out, and it was this whole thing. So that's why he'll be here. Kobe beef or Kobe Bryant?
+
+[42:54] No, free Kobayashi. Oh, Kobayashi. Right. You know, he just shortened it. So anyway, so he'll be here competing against the Nathan's hot dog eating people remotely via video.
+
+[43:04] I mean, didn't the guy invent the the Duncan smash? I think he did, yeah. Yeah. First of all, it's all kind of it's I mean, from an actual from my my perspective as a food person, I mean, the whole thing is kind of gross, like massive consumption. I'm I'm kind of fascinated by it, but it's also gross, right?
+
+[43:17] I mean, I think hot dogs are gross, period. Really? So yeah, I don't really like one. They taste good though. That's the problem with them.
+
+[43:22] They taste good. Also, did you know that if you make hot dogs, if you use the proper spices, no matter what meat you make it out of, you know what it tastes like? No. Hot dog. I've made one out of like all out of duck, all hand done, emulsify, blah, blah, blah, uh, you know, all this thing, trammed everything.
+
+[43:35] Tastes like a hot dog. What's hot dog spice? What is that? I forget what the mix is, but I like anyway, but but that's not my point. Here's what I'm gonna talk about with the with the with the with the eating, right?
+
+[43:45] Back to uh another one of my non-scientific just you know, diet trap. But this is my soapbox, so I get to say what I want. Uh calorie is in fact uh not uh a calorie because your body is not uh a hundred percent uh efficient, right? So if Kobayashi, who I believe his current record for this hot dog, I don't know how many minutes it is or whatever, but it's 69 hot dogs, right? That's his current record for whatever the the official professional hot dog eating round is is 69 hot dogs, which is a absurd.
+
+[44:11] But uh that's 270 calories a pop according to the internet's 69 hot dogs is uh 18,630 calories in what is it, two minutes, Jack? I don't know. I can look it up. Yeah, something like that. Uh okay.
+
+[44:24] So uh if you believe that a calorie is a calorie, right, and that they all add up, that would mean that uh he would gain from that alone in terms of actual body fat five point uh three pounds, right? You that doesn't happen though. You well, you know what gains five point three pounds? His toilet gains five point three pounds because your body simply cannot process all of that all of that food in one schlag. It just can't it can't be none.
+
+[44:48] Similarly, if you were to drink a gallon of oil, do you think that you would gain uh eight point nine pounds, which is the actual at thirty five hundred uh calories per pound is the number that's bandied about. Do you think you would gain eight point nine pounds, or do you think you would just run to the toilet and poop it all out? What do you think, Aaron? I I I hope he pulls the trigger after the contest. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[45:10] But I imagine it goes right through your system. Right. One in in maybe even out the same way it came in. Wow, you think you think you throw it up? You know, that's true.
+
+[45:18] I've never seen someone do the gallon of milk contest uh thing without without throwing it up. I we had a with a competitive eater on one of the shows, uh Tim Jan is oh, I forget what his name was, but he called it a reversal of fortune. And he said if anybody says the word vomit or puke in front of a competitive eater, it's like get out of the room. You're you can't do that. You can't even say the word.
+
+[45:36] You mean like when they're just sitting talking? Yeah, or like getting ready for a competition more, you know. But like after the comp like. Or especially after the comp, yeah, you know. But what I'm saying is like like, you know, in general casual conversation, are you allowed to say puke?
+
+[45:44] Uh that's a good question. What about boot? Also a good we should get we should get him back and on the show. Yeah, let's do it. Let's let's try to do that.
+
+[45:57] All right, so uh all right, so uh I think we answered most of the question. Do you have any closing uh comments here, uh Aaron, other than go to Kickstarter and go to deconstructing dinner and give some freaking money? Yeah, check check out deconstructing dinner.com. Uh we we we really need the help of of all all the listeners and and anyone who's uh and and like us on Facebook too, uh, from the site. Send it to all your friends.
+
+[46:17] Anyone who's passionate about food, I think will will really like this project. All right. Well, thank you for uh being our guest producer today. Thanks to everyone. This has been cooking issues.
+
+[46:32] Thanks for listening to this program on heritage radio network.org. You can find all of our programs archived on our website or by searching iTunes for Heritage Radio Network. You can find us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization.
+
+[46:57] To donate and become a member, visit our website. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by the International Culinary Center. Offering courses that range from classic French techniques in culinary, pastry, and bread baking to Italian studies to management. From culinary technology to food writing, from cake making to wine tasting. For more information, visit International Culinary Center.com. Broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn.
+
+[0:21] You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.org. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you live every Tuesday from roughly 12 to roughly 1245 on the Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting out of the back of Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn. Joined uh as usual with uh Nustacha Hammer Lopez. How you doing?
+
+[0:50] Good, how are you? And the whole crew in the in the engineering rooms give a shout out. Yeah, we're here. Yeah. Okay.
+
+[0:55] You were right on time today. I know it. You know an up at twelve. Maybe I'm just getting faster on the bike. It's awesome.
+
+[1:01] Yeah? Maybe I'm just I I'm I feel like I'm getting less in shape, so I doubt that's the case. Maybe I actually left on time today. It's possible. Nah, I doubt it.
+
+[1:09] Probably not. Uh so anyway, uh the cooking issues crew, uh Nastasha and I, along with uh Tristan Willie from our Bar Booker and Dax were on the Jimmy Fallon show yesterday. Uh for the second time, right? Yeah, second time. It was a lot of fun.
+
+[1:23] They put a picture of my kids, Booker and Dax, up with the uh with their bartender's mustaches on, thanks to Nastasha who emailed them the picture. But uh they were a great crew, right? They were a great crew. They were. I made a uh chocolate drink for uh Quest Love as well, which was a lot of fun.
+
+[1:38] Anyway. Uh enough about us. Okay. Uh William writes in, I hate peeding potato uh potatoes. Uh I actually like peeling potatoes.
+
+[1:47] It's weird. It's like you know how like in every book about like a f like a famous chef novel. Well, no, it's like for instance, okay, so like you ever read uh Ruleman's book, Soul of a Chef? No. Right?
+
+[1:57] No? I have it. Anyway, you have it you just haven't read it? It's not that long. I mean you could read it.
+
+[2:01] I'm not interested. I don't want to understand the soul of a chef. Oh, because I was like, oh, okay, Mark, I'll get a soul of a chef. And then I was like, nah. So it was enough like What?
+
+[2:11] I I wanted to try to understand and commiserate with the chef. Having being dating a chef. I just haven't gotten around to reading it. No, it's a choose not to read it. You choose not to read it.
+
+[2:26] What's that about? Nothing, I'm joking. What is that? Some people will know. Did you really read it?
+
+[2:30] No. What is that? What is fifty shades? What the hell am I behind everything? What the hell?
+
+[2:34] I'm like eighty years old. I don't know. I don't know what's going on. I I don't know what any of the people are reading these days. I know nothing except about food technology these days, I guess.
+
+[2:41] I guess pathetic. Anyways, uh so you bought it was enough to buy it to be like, hey Mark, look, I own this book. Aren't I nice? Yeah. But I but I don't want to read, I'm not interested.
+
+[2:51] Nah. Anyways. Uh so in that book, like they make a lot of hey over Thomas Keller liking to w wash dishes, as though it shows a sign that he's interested in all aspects of what goes on in the restaurant and the search for perfection, not just uh, you know, the the finished cooking preparation, but everything from cooking dishes and scrubbing pots and all the way up. Really, I think he's just a psycho and likes to likes to scrub pots. It's like I I like I like juicing li limes and lemons, and I don't mind peeling potatoes.
+
+[3:17] Do you know what I mean? It's just it's like a zen thing for me. It's not like because I care about the little things, which is also true. It's just I don't mind doing that freaking job. Mm-hmm.
+
+[3:25] Cooks are weird. Anyway. Um back to the question. Uh I hate peeling potatoes. Is there an alternative shortcut to peeling potatoes other than uh the blanch for fifteen minutes, dunk in ice water and rub the skin off?
+
+[3:37] I tried this technique with large russets, but it was quite messy and a pain in the pitukas, uh and feel that using a peeler would have been easier. Uh thanks, William. Uh well, William, you know, uh I've never actually uh used that technique for peeling potatoes. I peel all my potatoes with a uh Y-peeler. Um I mean I just I mean I can rip through uh I can rip through I've only really ever had to do like twenty pounds at a time, though.
+
+[4:02] So I don't know if you're doing like a whole bunch. I would bet anything under 10 pounds or even fifteen pounds, you're gonna be much faster, I think, just busting out with uh a Y peeler. The only advantage I think of the blanch is if you're not gonna soak them in water uh right away after you peel them. I peel them and directly throw them into uh water. Uh the blanching will probably kill the enzymes right at the surface of the potato and uh therefore um stop the potato from discoloring.
+
+[4:30] So if you weren't gonna throw it into water right away after you peel it, um then maybe that blanch would would help you on that. But I I would just use a Y-peeler. If you're doing more than like 20, 30 pounds of these at a time, uh and you have space in your kitchen, they do sell um for not that much money. Uh Nils used to use them in Sweden actually, because the restaurants he used to work with in Sweden, it's like basically all they served were potatoes and herring and salmon. That was it.
+
+[4:55] Potato staring. I'm just kidding, but that's not really though. Uh and so they had these uh abrasive peelers, and the way an abrasive peeler works, it's a drum uh and it's got sandpaper on the inside uh on the bottom of of the drum in a wavy shape, and the drum spins and you pour water into it, and the potatoes literally tumble around and uh and produce like a potato peel sludge, and the longer you run it, the more crap that you uh get off of it. And that's how um like large larger restaurants that do a lot of potatoes sometimes get those, uh I think they're more common in Europe. And that's how um potatoes are peeled in um big uh potato factories abrasively.
+
+[5:33] And and then they'll also a lot of times use a high uh uh a high pressure water jet to spray on the potatoes as well because that'll blast out any of the dark areas that are uh on a potato. See here's the other thing, right? If you're gonna blanch and then rub the rub this stuff off, you're still gonna need some sort of a knife or a peeler to get rid of all the black spots that are on the insides uh of the potatoes. And you know, that's why this is another thing. People who don't peel their potatoes beforehand, I mean, the problem with not peeling your potatoes beforehand is that there are plenty of potatoes that look sound after you wash them.
+
+[6:05] You know, you scrub them and you wash them. Uh but um after you peel them, you notice the black spot underneath. So if you're not peeling your potatoes before you know you make french fries and stuff, and then you have to pick through all the french fries and worry about all the black spots, right? No? Anyway, uh my my two cents.
+
+[6:21] But sorry I couldn't I didn't really help there. I think a lot of it, a lot of times when people are uh their peelings uh not as fast as they otherwise could be using a regular peeler, it's just because they're using a traditional straight peeler instead of uh the Y-shaped peeler. In fact, the the the my favorite, you know, is and I you know I I feel like I'm shilling for these guys because I also talk about their pressure cooker. I've never received a single thing from the Coon Recon Corporation, but they're relatively inexpensive uh and colorful Y peelers uh work great. They cost like four bucks, and they're so much faster than the metal, kind of more professional style Y peelers whose blade geometry I don't think is correct, or uh any of the other expensive ones, the cheap plastic one.
+
+[7:04] And they come in a bunch of different colors, which is nice because you'd be like, yo, mine's the green one. It's the green one. You know what I mean? Mm-hmm. Yeah.
+
+[7:11] Uh I'd stay away from the serrated edge uh peelers. They're theoretically for soft, peeling soft uh for uh things where um I don't know, but I've never had any damn luck with them. Nastasha likes them for some reason. She likes the way they look. You like the serrated peeler look.
+
+[7:26] I do. But not in there's no sort of functionality that you care about, right? No. No. Hold on.
+
+[7:33] Got a tweet in about the Fallon show. Oh, yeah, what'd they say? Most amazing thing about the Fallon appearance is cooking issues didn't drop the F-bomb once. Oh, someone must know me. Someone someone tweeted in.
+
+[7:44] What's his name, did? Who? Uh Joseph Gordon Levitt. He he dropped the F-bomb? Yes.
+
+[7:50] I couldn't watch. I was working. There was nothing to do. Like nothing for you to do. You're sitting around in the in the fish room.
+
+[7:57] I'll talk to you after. Nothing to do. Tristan and I were sitting there prepping this stuff out during the during the. Well, I said I'll talk to you after. Yeah, and you wouldn't know because where were you not?
+
+[8:10] With me working with Tristan. Okay, we'll talk about it after. Yeah, right. So it makes heritage radio better than Fallon. We'll let you drop F-bombs.
+
+[8:18] I know, but I actually I don't. I know, we appreciate that. Well, that's where you had that. We had that write-in once, and they said their kids listen. Yeah.
+
+[8:25] By the way, that's classic Nastasha, for those of you that don't uh know her, is to talk about something. She was not even with me during the the entire thing. She was working on email on the computer in the in they have these weird little rooms, and they all have weird names. We were in the fish room, right? And it had like all sorts of weird cereal boxes uh on the sidewall.
+
+[8:45] But that's where that's where Nastasha was chilling most of the time. Right? Right. Right. Uh okay.
+
+[8:53] Um, and also from William. I've been catching up on older podcasts. Uh, and in one you mentioned about not having the resources to buy certain things to test out for the listeners. Why not putting up a donation link on the site? I'm sure many of us are happy to donate.
+
+[9:05] After all, you're giving us a wealth of uh info. William McGee. That's a good idea. It is. Right?
+
+[9:09] Yeah. Nastash, look into that. Listeners can donate to Heritage Radio on our homepage. Yeah. But will that will that buy us cooking equipment to test out for our readers?
+
+[9:18] Um. Check with Aaron on that. That's funny. Okay. Uh Joe writes in Amazon.com is advertising Mirval's modernist Well, Miravold et al.
+
+[9:30] Mirvold et al. Uh Modernist Cuisine at home to be released on October 8th. So what's the story? Is this just an edited version of the original or will there be new content? Can those of us that have the original safely give this a pass?
+
+[9:43] Thanks, Joe. Listen, uh, I've got to be honest, uh I didn't have time to get in touch with um any of those guys. So I don't know. I haven't read uh any of the pre-press on that. Like, you know, uh our heads have pretty much been in a hole because we got a lot of projects we're working on, so the outside world hasn't really been penetrating much.
+
+[10:01] Um I don't know that they've I think it's probably a redux of stuff that's in the larger book. Uh might have been represented somewhat uh or changed, but I don't think those guys have had the time to to do anything. Let me put it this way. Uh if that crew is going to do uh a totally fresh thing, they're gonna put as much energy into it as they put into anything else they do, and I don't think they've had the time to do that. So it's probably going to be pulled uh from the other one.
+
+[10:31] But I'm gonna, you know, if anyone else knows or wants to write in, uh I'm I'm anxious to hear because I don't know. Um passing along this question. Uh in my most recent article about the benefits of anesthetizing fish, lobsters, and crabs for enhanced flavors, I was wondering if uh if I've ever tried doing the same with bivalves, and if so, whether it's made any difference in the flavor. Thanks, Craig. Uh okay, so we're talking about the uh recent uh two weeks old now, uh cooking issues post on um using anesthesia, specifically clove oil on lobsters and crabs.
+
+[11:08] Um and the the theory is is that if you anestheti them before you kill them, uh they taste better, which is true. We've done that test many, many times. Uh and they they taste cleaner, sweeter, they're awesome. And plus, if you should feel bad about throwing uh a live crustacean into a pot of uh boiling water, this will uh allay uh your nervousness somewhat because uh they don't they don't twitch, they don't move at all, they don't they they just sink to the bottom of the pot and there's no sort of reaction from them at all. Uh so anyway, so I wrote about the technique of how to do that using clove oil that you get at um at Whole Foods.
+
+[11:44] Um anyway, so uh plus you know, or the benefits of just shoving a knife uh through them and taking out all of their ganglion and then and then and then boiling them. Problem with that being that you lose some of the juices on the inside of the lobster and so you uh lose some of its taste. Anyway, question is can you do that on bivalves? I don't know. Uh I've never I've never tried to anesthetize a bivalve.
+
+[12:05] Bivalve meaning uh I would guess specifically clams and uh and mussels or you know, perhaps something like a whelk or uh or something else. Like, oh that's not a bivalve, that's a univalve, right? Uh anyway, um the um so if we're talking about mussels and clams uh and and oysters. Um here's the problem. Clove oil water that you anesthetize things uh in has uh an aroma of clothes.
+
+[12:32] Uh and this is why when you're using clove oil, you have to be especially careful to not get it on your hands because it becomes impossible to find out whether anything's then contaminated because whenever you bring your hands to your nose to see what's going on, you smell clothes. Uh when you're dealing with lobsters that are then going to get boiled, or you're dealing with fish that are gonna get uh you know sc scrubbed and gutted, you don't the clove oil flavor doesn't come through because it's been diluted twice, right? But like it's not really enough of it is not on the fish or the lobster uh or in the thing so that you can detect it. But in a uh bivalve where you have the act where it like part of its juices are the fluids in which it is sitting, then uh I'm pretty sure you're gonna detect the uh the aroma of clove. And so I don't think you'd be able to do a valid taste test between uh anesthetizing a lobster, I mean a um uh uh uh an oyster versus not.
+
+[13:26] Um it's an interesting question though. I've tried using uh gases to gas them open uh without much luck. You know, Mirvold and Chris Young and those guys use a a quick freeze with liquid nitrogen to uh shuck their uh oysters uh quickly to you know kill them, kill them quickly. Uh I don't know how fast high hydrostatic pressure is, which is also used on oysters. I've never actually tasted one of those oysters.
+
+[13:52] It's uh killed and pasteurized with high hydrostatic pressure. Uh so I don't can't tell you whether they taste good or they taste bad. But there's a lot of other effects other than not cutting open a living creature in in that in that scenario. What I have done with uh and it's totally separate, it has nothing to do with anesthesia, is uh I've put oysters, this is years and years and years ago, I would make flavored seawater uh using uh we would use for clams we once used uh chicken stock with bacon in it uh for oysters we used to use carrot juice and uh cardamom and we would I would add uh aquarium salt back to it to get it to be just like the ocean and then I would have the uh oysters and or clams uh drink the fluid right they would basically I would put them in this I would aerate it I would you know keep it at the at the temperature that the clams and the oysters would want to feed at they would feed and then when you shucked the oyster it would be bright orange like so you'd have an oyster there in the shell you'd shuck it and it would be bright orange and it would taste like carrots and cardamom and that that was a nifty trick. I haven't done that in a long time.
+
+[14:54] I've ever done that for you nostashers that before that was before you were working with us but uh and it's been a a long long time since I've done it but it's a fun it's a fun little trick. Uh anyway so that's for whatever it's worth there Craig. Anyway you want to take a break? Sure. Let's take a break come back to cooking issues If you want to be a great chef, you can't learn everything from within the walls of a classroom.
+
+[16:24] That's why the French Culinary Institute has evolved into the International Culinary Center. When you come here, you don't just learn basic culinary skills. You come to understand and to feel the whole culinary world. You have to network. You have to observe the true meaning of world-class performance.
+
+[16:40] You have to intern at some of the world's great restaurants. At the International Culinary Center's campuses in New York, California, and Italy, we will expose you to the whole of the culinary world, one that is evolving daily at a very high speed. The International Culinary Center offers a wide range of courses, including culinary, pastry, and bread baking to Italian wine management, culinary technology, and food writing. For more information, visit International Culinary Center.com. The International Culinary Center.
+
+[17:11] Right? Mm-hmm. Yeah. Anyway, uh back at cooking issues. Call in your questions to 718-497-2128.
+
+[17:18] That's 718497-2128. This one into uh Nastasha, myself. Well, real quick, Andy Melka says, why the Y-peeler? Feel like I'm gonna peel my hand somehow. Love traditional straight peeler.
+
+[17:30] Well, I don't recommend peeling your hand. That would be a mistake. It's all about hey, look, here's the thing, right? Watch someone who's adept at a Y-peeler. It's a different kind of uh a skill, right?
+
+[17:42] From using it. So, uh but I I know what you're for those of you that don't know what we're talking about, this peeler looks like a Y. That's why they call it a Y-peeler. Duh. And uh if you're not used to using it, you what you feel like you're gonna get is like let's say you're holding a potato, you're holding a potato in the palm of your hand, and your thumb and your index are like on it, right?
+
+[17:59] And you're peeling down, and then you're using your thumb and index to rotate the potato as the as the Y-peeler is going slap slap slap slap shap. And you do, if you're not used to it, get the feeling that you're gonna nick your thumb somehow. But uh I haven't. Do you know what I mean? It's just like I guess getting getting used to it.
+
+[18:16] But it's it's just I mean, look at anyone who's really good with a Y-peeler, and they're just much, much faster with it. Uh I guess just because of the the stroke. Now, um what you don't get is that same feeling. So with a regular straight peeler, you're keeping the straight peeler kind of in between the your four fingers in kind of like uh in a I don't know, what would you call that kind of a palm I'm making? Uh like the like kung fu iron fist, yeah.
+
+[18:43] No, black power's a fist. Yeah. Yeah. What the hell? Uh but like uh like kind of like a kung fu like like s like palm slap thing, and you're using your thumb and you can pull the the straight peeler towards you with a curl of your of your wrist, it's kind of like a snapping motion, but still not as fast as uh as a really uh adept person with a Y-peeler.
+
+[19:03] Another thing, and I gotta call it one second. Uh in a but with a with a Y-peeler, like let's say you're doing carrots, you put the carrot flat on a uh baking sheet, and then you just you just the the Y-peeler is like slap, slap, slap, slap, slap, slap, slap, slap, stop, stop stop stop as you're rotating the carrot underneath you, and the peels just go flying everywhere. It's it's amazing. Try the why. Anyway, Kohler, you're on the air.
+
+[19:23] Hi, how are you? Doing well. How are you? Good. Your show's great so far.
+
+[19:28] I'm really enjoying it. Oh, thanks. Um, I have a really silly question. Now, I always try to like whip my own whipped cream, and I don't know if it's because I'm buying ultra pasteurized or I'm not whipping it at the right speed, but it's literally about two steps away from becoming butter. Maybe you know what I'm doing wrong.
+
+[19:46] Yeah, I think you're probably just whipping too long. So usually when you're when you're whipping your own um cream, right, uh you uh it's not gonna be as hard or as stiff as the stuff that you know that is commercial out of a out of a can, or you know what I mean? Uh those guys. Yeah, because those guys add a lot of uh stabilizer. So I would start with like a really cold cream, get the highest fat content cream you can get.
+
+[20:13] I've never done a lot of tests on ultra pasteurized versus not, but I can tell you that uh at the school they they use uh a non-ultra pasteurized, a regular pasteurized cream, which is hard to get in supermarket. And it just it's totally it tastes better. I I mean it tastes better. And the cream we get is also a very high fat content cream, so it all it also whips up um quite nicely. If um I mean if you want to cheat and you want it a little bit stiff uh stiffer, you could add uh stabilizers.
+
+[20:41] I mean, and then and if you look at the label on uh on whipped cream, especially the ones that are trying to reduce the fat content, they use light cream, and they stabilize the hell out of those things. Oh, okay. Yeah, and that'll get it a little bit better. If you whip it even a little bit too much, what happens is is um so cream is a uh is an oil in water emulsion. The continuous phase is uh it's water.
+
+[21:05] And then uh if you over whip it, right, and then when you whip it, the f the fat uh is you know basically you're forming um like a foam and the and the fat's at the at the layer. Uh with air. If you over whip it, the fat starts to kind of um agglomerate together and the emulsion starts to uh invert. And if you go too long, obviously you get butter, but the first thing you get is the is that kind of grainy feel and starts watering down a little bit, the texture loses, and you start getting a buttery taste to the whipped cream, which is not what you want. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[21:36] I I tried to make a peanut butter pie, so I was like, oh, this should be super duper easy. I'll just do it this way. And it still came out like really good, but it was like super thick and like not that aerated, and I'm like, ah crap, what do I keep doing wrong? So Right. You could fortify like so you look at traditional mousse recipes and they got whipp their whipped cream and they're fortified with uh like a a gelatin mix afterwards, they're folded together.
+
+[21:56] And that'll keep something like that pretty stiff. Um you know, another uh uh let's see, over whipping, what else could be. I mean that that's that's the that's the main thing, and you know, obviously something that people I mean, I'm sure you know this already, but just to tell people when you're whipping cream, don't forget to add salt to it because it really pops the flavor. Yeah. A little bit, not a lot.
+
+[22:14] You don't want it salty, but it just really rounds out the the flavor, makes it makes it a lot better. Oh wow, I never knew that. Well, thanks so much for your help. Hey, no problem. Hope it helps.
+
+[22:23] Yeah, thank you. Have a good one. You too. Um was I what was I took I was like ranting about something before potato. Oh, the wide peeler.
+
+[22:32] Anyway, yeah, I hit that. Okay, so by the way, Jack, this one's for you and for anyone out there listening wants to download the podcast. Uh-huh. Uh this is to everyone, including Indy Jesus. This is from Kevin, but remember Indy Jesus is no longer with us.
+
+[22:42] He doesn't work our shift anymore. Mainly. But he will rise again. Jesus is all you guys, and you're gonna get me in some big trouble. Oh man.
+
+[22:50] No, it's Indie Jesus hates Nastasha. That's the problem. Yeah, that I mean that that's my best guess. Yeah, yeah. Anyway.
+
+[22:56] Uh first off, it's from Kevin. First off, enjoy the show and want to share a tip for anyone who is on the Android and doesn't have an iPhone. You can download uh Heritage Radio's RSS feed for the show into the Google Listen app and it will automatically download and sync all the episodes over the air. That's right. I did not know that.
+
+[23:13] They're just MP3s. Yeah, I did I did not know this. Uh it used to be a huge pain to download the episodes one by one and copy them over USB, so I hope this helps some folks. Uh number two, uh, this is from Kevin Still. I have the opportunity to give talks on food science for Australia's National Science Week in Melbourne in August.
+
+[23:29] Although they pronounce it like Melbourne, right? Or know how do they pronounce it? Don't know. It's I can't do it. I can't do the Australian version of Melbourne the way they pronounce it.
+
+[23:36] So I'm gonna say it like an American Melbourne. Anyway, uh I'd like to tailor the message to the ingredients and cooking equipment available uh down there, i.e. in Melbourne. Uh do you have any experience working in Australia? And would you mind plugging my request to your Australian listeners?
+
+[23:51] The best contact would be Kevin at ScienceFair.org. Uh fair as in food. F-A-R-E. Keep up the inspirational work. Kevin, I do not have any uh experience in Australia.
+
+[24:01] I've never been to Australia. If there's anyone out there that wants to fly cooking issues down to Australia for any reason, we'll do it, right? Right. Uh but uh I'm sure, you know, if anyone from the Breville Corporation is listening, they can hook you up with some equipment, right? I mean, like a Breville like owns uh like like Australia's cooking implement universe, don't they?
+
+[24:20] Breville. They also they love Mama Fuku. They love like you know, our partners Dave Chang, they love uh Christina Tozi. Christina Tozi's, I think her her shop is basically constructed out of brevel brevel pieces of equipment instead of bricks because they have uh so much brevel equipment. True or false?
+
+[24:37] Yes. Not I mean, not honestly. I mean, it's like, you know, it's an example. I'm exaggerating. Anyway, uh Dave, Nastasha, and Jack.
+
+[24:43] By the way, it it's it's I always pronounce pronounce your name properly because I always mispronounce it. Nastasia. Yeah, I say Nastasha. One syllable less. Yeah, it's one syllable less because I'm a lazy, lazy son of a bitch.
+
+[24:56] Alright. Tom Fisher writes in Dave, Nastasia, and Jack. Hope you had a great 4th of July. I've run into a snag. I've been making clarified fruit juices using your instructions for some time and recently started using them to make flavored ice cream.
+
+[25:12] The juices were not strong enough on their own, so I froze them and re-melted them, drawing off the concentrated juice. This worked well, but I got very inconsistent results as I have no way to determine the concentration of the juice. I remember you were mentioning a bricks refractometer to measure the concentration of sugar in solution. Will this work for my application as well? Many thanks, Tom Fisher.
+
+[25:30] Hell yes. Yes. That's the easiest question I've ever had to answer. Yes. Now, uh here's what you gotta do.
+
+[25:37] You gotta figure out uh so you want the sugar content of the uh ice cream probably to be on the same order of concentration as a uh sorbet. And I can't remember off the top of my head what a proper bricks concentration for a sorbet is, but it's on the order of uh I think 20, 20% sugar or something like that, like like 17, 20, something I can't remember. Uh so what you're gonna want to do is uh figure out what percentage of your recipe is uh is is juice, right? And then it figure out any other added sugar that you're going to add to it, and then you can calculate on a weight basis of your ice cream mix what the bricks because all bricks means is is percentage by weight uh that of a solution that is sugar. Okay?
+
+[26:21] So uh, you know, let's say your your mixture was going to be one quarter fruit juice, uh, and it was going to be the only sugar that's in the in the recipe. Well, then you'd need a very high bricks, right? Because if you were looking for 20% uh of the thing to be uh sugar and you wanted to add you know only a quarter of it being juice, almost all of it would have to be sugar. So but that said, you it's all doable, right? But what you need is uh uh you need a a bricks refractometer.
+
+[26:50] Um most of the ones that people buy uh are zero to thirty-two bricks, so they can only do from zero, well, zero to thirty-two percent sugar in a solution. And that's fine for fruit juice and fine for survey, but not fine if you're gonna need to use something as concentrated as a simple syrup, let's say, typical simple syrup, somewhere between 50 bricks, normal, or which simple syrup is gonna be at like 66 bricks. So um I use I use an elect an electronic one that's uh you know a lot more expensive because I need to be very, very quick for the bar. But you can get a bricks refractometer that's zero to eighty-five percent bricks, which will take care of a lot of what you're gonna do. Uh for about uh 40, 50 dollars.
+
+[27:29] If you want, you can buy two of the cheaper ones, one for the higher range and one for the lower range. The disadvantage of getting a single bricks refractometer that's an extremely wide range, like zero to eighty-five, is it's just not very accurate because it's hard to look into the refractometer and read the scale. But uh, you know, the they're they're not complicated to use, they're easy to take care of. I've only ever had one person break one. Me.
+
+[27:54] Uh but uh but yeah, go ahead and get them. And I've that's another one of those things. Uh, you know, if you ever need one, the needs are gonna come up for it again and again. No one's ever said, Man, I wish I didn't have that refractometer. You know what I mean?
+
+[28:08] Okay. Uh okay. Uh have some uh Twitter questions then I'm gonna take care of real quick uh before we go to our other commercial break. At cooking issues, have you ever run tests on centrifuges to clarify high density items like bean puree? If so, would it be efficient?
+
+[28:25] Okay. Uh well, yeah, no. We've done a lot of work uh obviously with nut oils where we're trying to get the um not obviously, I mean only if you know me and have for years is it obvious, but we do a lot of work with uh nut oils, where uh we blend nuts, uh and we've done we've done a bunch, right? Walnuts, pistachios, uh hazelnuts, uh Brazil nuts, uh macadamia nuts, bunch of nuts, uh pecans, peanuts, uh which aren't nuts. And uh blend them and then uh spin them in a centrifuge to extract the oil.
+
+[28:58] And it's I wouldn't call it efficient, but it it is uh it is delicious. Um I have spun um tomato paste, and it's not efficient at all, but that tiny bit of uh of juice that you get at the top of the tomato paste after you spin it is delicious. You tasted that right, Saz? That was good. You would like that.
+
+[29:20] It's incredibly inefficient, though. Uh well, and here's for more inefficiency, uh uh Tony Caneliaro, our buddy uh at 69 Colbert Grow, who I'm gonna see uh this week, I guess he's gonna be in New York before Tails, although I don't know when. Uh he uh I'm weird tails of the cocktail, by the way, next week. I'm probably gonna have to do that show from New Orleans. I gotta find out when my plane lands.
+
+[29:40] Uh he literally sticks whole olives in a centrifuge. Talk about talk about paste and spins them and gets uh a ridiculously small amount of ridiculously delicious product. I've never done bean puree. Your success is gonna be based on two factors. One, how tightly bound is the water to the puree, and two, how much physical water is in the puree versus solids.
+
+[30:02] Because a centrifuge at 4,000 times the force of gravity is only going to have a certain amount of separating capability. So I guess the answer, and it's not very helpful, is it depends. Not very helpful, huh? No. You could also try to use something that breaks the puree down.
+
+[30:17] If the puree is basically based on pectin, you can use a uh uh an enzyme to break down the pectin and increase your yield. It'll be at the expense probably of the texture of the paste that's left over because you would want to be able to use both. Yeah? Okay. Uh at cooking issues, heritage radio, where to eat in Chicago.
+
+[30:34] Coming from Dublin, Ireland, first time in Chi Town. Where's interesting cheers? Well, unfortunately, I haven't been in a couple of years uh to Chicago, so I don't know uh what's hit and happened anymore. Um I mean, obviously for the kind of work uh that we do, you're gonna want to go to uh a linea, but you gotta book up uh kind of well in advance, right? Uh and uh I the problem is is that a lot of the places that I really want to go in Chicago I haven't gone yet.
+
+[31:01] Like I haven't gone to uh aviary, and I'm just not I'm not plugged in in Chicago anymore, unfortunately. Um it's been years, and I'm loath to recommend places that I haven't been yet. Right, Stas? Right. Is that fair?
+
+[31:15] Right. Fair? But I would like uh readers to uh or or answer back on the Twitter. Answer me back on the at at cooking issues uh on the Twitter uh and get some uh recommendations uh for eating in uh Chicago. Uh okay.
+
+[31:32] Uh hey, Jack, you want to take one more commercial break? Uh yeah, give me one second. Alright. 718497-2128. That's 718-497-2128.
+
+[31:40] Cooking issues.org. And welcome back. By the way, crazy guitar, right? Oh yeah. That's Tim Power going crazy.
+
+[32:56] Man, he was a nutty guitarist. Any any comments about the music from listeners on your end? No, nobody'll nobody. Look, it's like it's like a freak show's college band from 1991. They're like, okay, we'll put up with it.
+
+[33:07] I'm pretty sure that's what's going on. Maybe. Yeah, I'm pretty sure. Um, although, again, like one of the best parts about being uh in the Fallon show is getting to listen to the uh roots play. Those guys are awesome.
+
+[33:18] Mm-hmm. Did you get to hang out with Quest Love at all? I mean, look, those guys are busy. I mean, the way the way it works is um, you know, we I wanted to I wanted to do something with him. It's it's gonna be up, I guess, on their blog on on Thursday.
+
+[33:29] Uh but he likes uh chocolate drinks, and this is his quote, not mine, so I don't want to hear anything. He also like he's accused of all by all of his buddies of liking his words not mine, bitch drinks. Uh and so, you know, he likes he liked uh last time chocolate flavors and he liked uh kind of drinks that tasted lighter. So I wanted to make a drink uh I want to make a drink for you know for him that it was also about the album that came out a year or two ago he did with Booker T called uh uh The Road from Memphis because obviously the bar's name is Booker and Dax, my son's Booker and you know Booker T and Quest Love and Chocolate and Beverage. So I made one and uh we did a little he did he and I did a little segment that's going to be on uh Fallon's uh blog uh or is it MBC's or Fallon's uh Fallon's blog uh sometime later this week so yeah I got to hang out a little bit nice I think he he liked the drink he drank the whole he drank it I met him at Milk Bar once he was buying a lot of cookies.
+
+[34:27] Really? Yeah. Yeah was he seemed he's a nice guy. Yeah really nice guy. Yeah.
+
+[34:31] Yeah. Impressive fro in the real life. Very more impressive even in real life than it is on the uh on the television. Uh anyway uh got a a question in really interesting one actually I'm just trying to find it on my uh on my machine here from Mike. Uh I've been reading a lot of Chinese cookbooks uh and uh which is a a good plan.
+
+[34:55] I wonder which Chinese cookbooks uh you like I I I've got to get the fuchsia Dunlop books. I don't have those uh yet uh but uh always a good plan reading Chinese cookbooks. Uh some talk about the importance of seasoning walks. The general method is to heat up oil and/or lard and uh some sort of allium. Traditionally uh garlic chives, but a combination of scallion and ginger is also recommended.
+
+[35:16] They say that the heating process opens the pores of the metal, uh, the aromatics permeate the metal, and the whole process helps create a nonstick surface. Could you please talk a bit about seasoning a pan? Is it crap or is this something I should be doing? And if so, do you have a better method? Thanks, Mike.
+
+[35:32] Excellent question. Uh so uh the last time I spent a lot of uh time researching um seasoning and in general is uh when I did a post years ago on cast iron uh pans in in general cast iron pans. Uh and seasoning is not uh crap. Seasoning is actually important. And there's a slight debate in the community uh about what exactly is going on when you're seasoning a pan.
+
+[36:03] Uh I think pretty much for me the the accepted reason uh seasoning a pan is that you are creating uh well, you you put a thin layer of oil and then or you know, fat, and when you heat it, the fat is breaking down and polymerizing and forming a basically a uh polymerized oil film uh on top of the pan, it's binding with the pan, and it's that surface that is uh nonstick. Okay? And also you know, black. You know you have it there because it's black or it's brown. And it's the same sort of uh reaction that happens uh in oil paint, when oil paints uh are dry, right?
+
+[36:44] Those they they use in oil paints they use specifically something called a drying oil because it polymerizes and forms uh this kind of solid network. If you've ever seen uh vegetable oil that's spilled on a surface or been allowed to stay on a surface for a long time and it forms that yellow gunk, right? Stash, you know what I'm talking about, that yellow gunk. Uh that is partially polymerized uh oil. Uh and so uh th that's what's going on.
+
+[37:10] Uh and it works. Now there's uh there's a um uh another group that thinks it's a different kind of oxidized uh iron that's the same, but it's uh what's it called? Uh magnet magnetite or whatever it is, that is the uh another form of iron oxide that's not rust, that's protective uh and is a similar one that they use when you're blueing guns, uh blued, you know, blued steel for bluing guns, similar sort of thing. I don't think that's the case. Um I think it's a polymerized oil.
+
+[37:36] Now, in a pen, when you're seasoning, a couple of things uh are important. Uh first is that you want to I uh a lot of people debate whether or not a particular kind of oil is more or less important. I don't really think it's that big of a deal. What you want to make sure of is that you don't put a thin, a thick, thick, thick, gloppy layer of oil on it when you're seasoning it. And the reason is that uh if you do, uh it's gonna form thicker layers and those layers will partially polymerize, but they're never going to be as tough uh or as uniform uh as uh lots of thin layers built up.
+
+[38:12] And uh if you um if you and you'll see this, if you let a thin layer thick there, when you when you start when you start scraping it down with a spatula, you'll uh you'll it'll dig into it and and pieces of the seasoning will flake up and that's not considered good. So that's why there's a lot of rubbing with paper towels. That's why when you're seasoning a pot in the oven, they turn them upside down so that any oil that is free that's not been wiped around enough drips off of the uh pan before it gets too polymerized and forms kind of little crappy spots. All right. So, I mean, the classic technique is uh multiple coatings of oil in an oven that is hotter than frying temperature.
+
+[38:55] So like 450, I usually use something like that. Or like if you're seasoning a griddle, I can s I'll season it directly. I can even season pans on a flame as long as you don't heat them up too much, because uh, you know, you'll you can burn the seasoning off of a pan if you if you put it at like 650 in a self-clean cycle in an oven, you can burn the seasoning off of a pan. Uh although I don't know the exact temperature. Now, the the interesting thing about the uh the onion the the onions, the alliums, when you're seasoning a wok.
+
+[39:24] And I looked into this. And before I get into the seasoning of the alum with uh with the wok, I let me say this. Uh I don't have a lot of experience because I uh another thing I was interested in walks when the question came in is is you know what's the difference is there a difference in cooking in cooking capabilities or style or feel between a traditional hand hammered wok, which is made by taking a sheet of steel and hammering it into a wok shape, uh, or uh a spun wok, where basically they take the the the disc and uh press it between uh two uh you know wooden chucks and s and spin it fast and then use a stick to push the wok down into a wok shape. Or a stamped walk, which is basically just you know a big hydraulic press, boom, stamps out the stamps out the wok. And uh I don't know if there's a difference, and I wasn't able to find any sort of difference uh online.
+
+[40:16] Now there is a possibility, and you mentioned in your question, uh porosity. Uh and and i I think it is uh no one has I don't remember uh because it's been a long time since I researched, but I I don't think that that I don't know what the difference is in porosity between uh different things. But I will say this. The surface of the pan does make a difference in uh how something works when it cooks. And let's go back to regular cast iron pans which I have a lot more experience with.
+
+[40:41] Modern cast iron cookware that is produced is basically straight from the cast. So if you look at the surface of a cast iron pan, it's got a little bit of a I don't know hard to say. Like you know what I'm talking about a little rough sandpapery look to it. And uh I don't like that, right? Uh that's always got that little bit of a of a of a rough feel.
+
+[41:04] Some people think that's going to actually enhance the uh non-stickness because it it decreases the actual area of contact of the food with the pan, which therefore less area to stick. That's why certain nonstick pants have those little dimples in the bottom. I think it's a horrible idea. The pans I like were sanded to relie to show a bare metal uh surface at the bottom of something that they called polishing but you could literally just take like a sander or a grinder to get that kind of sandpaper that sandpaper feel finish off the bottom of it. And those things take seasoning like a mother and they come out like a black piece of glass.
+
+[41:42] They're so slick and and my cast iron that is you know at least 50 years old that was made that way is the is the cast iron in my place that is the best in terms of uh non non stickness. Um it's just it's great. Um and another thing, by the way, back to walks. Uh, when you're looking at a walk, some people are worried about using a metal spatula with their cast iron. Don't be worried about it.
+
+[42:06] In fact, with a walk, you're always using a cast iron. It actually helps to to knock little bit. If you have a good seasoning on it, using something metal will help to knock little bits that were st that will stick off and build up on your and your product. So don't worry about that. Uh but the interesting part of your question, it's something I hadn't thought about, was the reaction of the chives or garlic chives with the pan.
+
+[42:27] And I don't think that it's horse hockey. I think that there's something to it. But I woke because I watched a couple videos of people seasoning walks online. Here's a couple of things. First, uh uh first of all, most people don't cook with uh cut with carbon knives anymore, with knives that other words that will stain, that aren't stainless.
+
+[42:45] I have a couple in my house because I happen to like them. Everyone who has a carbon steel knife, one that you know will rust, will tell you that when you're cutting uh an onion, uh that onion will taste bad, especially if there's uh if it's not properly seasoned. Wait, you know what? I got a quick call, I'll take the call in, and then I'll go back to onions and knives and walk season because it's it's it's uh super interesting, at least to me, hopefully to somebody else. Caller, you're on the air.
+
+[43:12] Hey Je uh hey uh Dave, it's Brian uh here in San Francisco. How are you? Doing well, yourself? Good, good. Um I wanted to thank you for answering my question about sugars uh a couple weeks ago.
+
+[43:22] And so now I'm I'm no longer paranoid about NutraSweet and uh all the uh the artificial sugars. Good. And you're and your your wife's okay with it, every everyone's good? She hasn't dropped dead yet. No, good, good, good.
+
+[43:34] I had some neutral sweet last night and I'm not dead. What? I had some neutral sweet just last night and I haven't died yet. Well maybe you should uh maybe it'll take another couple days. We'll see.
+
+[43:44] Well, to be to be honest though, though, but back on that, that's not actually like the fact that we haven't died yet isn't necessarily uh a good argument because there are things, I'm not saying neutral street's one of them, because I don't think it is. There are things that take twenty years to kill you, like asbestos. Anyway, uh go ahead. Right, or mad cow. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
+
+[43:59] There you go. Um, so my question has to do with the uh uh I was reading the Modernist cuisine, and they recommended um putting a slab of like quarter or quarter inch or three quarter inch um aluminum into your oven as a hack for pizzas. And I know you have some experience with um um hacking your oven, but uh I I don't want to completely destroy and dis um dismember mine. So I'm wondering what you think about that as a as uh a better um technique than um than a pizza stone. Hmm.
+
+[44:38] So wait, they they're telling you to put they're telling you to put the pizza directly onto the aluminum? Exactly. Huh. Well, I've never tried it. I mean uh the here's the the basic theory of operation.
+
+[44:50] Um have you ever fill okay, so if you have an oven that doesn't have a lot a lot of power in it, and you fill that oven with stones, not just like a sm like one pizza stone, but a lot, you'll notice that it it takes a long, long, long, long time for your oven to heat up because it it you have to put a lot uh it's taking a lot of power to heat up those stones. Do you know what I'm saying? So I once had an oven that I've yeah, like a long time. I had an oven I completely lined the inside almost like it was a masonry oven, and hours it would take for it to heat up. Uh and um so maybe they're thinking that's not a a good tack to take w with your oven.
+
+[45:29] Aluminum, how thick were they saying? They were saying three quarters inch, but then I was reading E. Golid's and Nathan said oh, you could go down to a quarter inch. Well, I don't know about here aluminum just because it's light. Right.
+
+[45:42] Aluminum well, the here here's a couple of things. So the what you want to do with the crust, I'm assuming that their theory of operation is that they want to put a big and instantaneous heat wallop into the bottom of the crust, right? Exactly. Now, aluminum is the a super fast conductor, one of the best. You know, it's like right up there with copper.
+
+[46:03] Not as good as copper, but right up there in terms of heat. And uh the issue with it is is that it doesn't store it it it it transmits heat very quickly, but it doesn't store heat very well because it uh it just doesn't it's lighter, right? So it's doesn't have as much mass, and uh you know, and it doesn't take that much energy to heat up a block of aluminum. So the advantage is your oven will heat it very quickly compared to other things. It will heat very evenly, right?
+
+[46:36] And whatever heat energy is in it will be delivered to your pizza very quickly, and uh it also won't cool down that much uh because the oven can supply heat to it uh fairly quickly as well. So unlike a uh a pizza stone, if you're gonna make a bunch of pizzas with a pizza stone, you'll notice that it it starts lagging after a couple of pizzas because you've exhausted the heat that is at the surface of the stone, and it's taking a long time for it to kind of replenish that heat because the stone doesn't heat up very quickly, whereas aluminum heats extremely quickly. Because you know, those guys are good at that, I'm sure those guys did the calculation of how much heat is really necessary to deliver to your pizza on an instantaneous basis to get that good crust, that good boost on the crust. And that's why they're getting whatever thickness of aluminum it is that they're getting is so that there's enough energy in that ingot to zap your crust fast. Is that makes yeah that that that makes sense.
+
+[47:39] Does it make a difference the kind of metal? Yeah. Well c mean really expensive. You know what I mean? Yeah, obviously if fly with copper then you you know.
+
+[47:48] Yeah, and heavy. Uh and heavy. Stainless? No, awful. No, with stainless steel work?
+
+[47:55] Yeah, awful. No, terrible. Yeah, stainless is terrible. So like I like uh when I was testing uh um like before I was making my own red hot pokers for drinks, I would have uh uh slugs of different metals that I was using to heat over a flame and then and then uh and then heat drinks with and stainless was just awful. It's a slow conductor uh of it's a very slow conductor of heat compared even to uh iron.
+
+[48:21] Very slow. Uh yeah it's just it has the advantage of being non-reactive. Uh is is all it's got. It's expensive, it's heavy and it's slow. Uh you know which is why your good pots um are a th you know uh have a big chunk of aluminum in the bottom of them and uh you know or copper uh and then like a a layer of stainless that your food actually touches it's probably quite thin.
+
+[48:47] Do you know what I mean? Yeah stainless terrible you think this would be good for bread in addition to uh in in in addition to pizza or it would be too hot for bread. Uh no I mean no it's I think it it would probably it would probably work. It would depend on what temperature. I mean, obviously you're not cranking your oven as high on um you're not cranking your oven as high for bread as you are for a pizza.
+
+[49:09] Uh I it's been many years since I've done very thorough research on um bread baking and crust interactions, so I'd have to figure out whether you're actually getting any sort of benefit from the masonry surface other than the delivery of heat. But uh I don't see why it wouldn't I don't see why it wouldn't wouldn't work. I don't see why it wouldn't work. But if you can afford the thicker one, I would get the thicker one. You know what I mean?
+
+[49:37] Yeah. Uh if you look online, uh go to McMaster dot com. It's not cheap, but they uh it's easy to uh obtain aluminum from them and you can uh figure out there's a there's a uh you know, most of this stuff goes by weight, but then sometimes there's a price uh break where if you start getting it thicker, all of a sudden the price jumps more than just the weight jump. And so you can kind of see where that sweet spot is. I looked it up a while ago and I think it's somewhere around half inch that starts getting expensive to get bigger slabs, uh, at least n normally.
+
+[50:09] Or if you know if you if you live if you have a car and you live uh, you know, outside of the major city, you could probably just go to aluminum supply uh and get it. But McMaster Car, they're everywhere. You could at least get an idea of prices. They're about thirty percent more than they should be at McMaster Car, but it'll give you an idea. Okay, great.
+
+[50:27] Thanks. Um uh do you think I should season it? Aluminum? No, no, aluminum, no. No.
+
+[50:34] Okay. Yeah. It forms its own oxide and it's not n you're not gonna be able to do anything good with it. Okay, great. Thanks so much.
+
+[50:40] Hey, no problem. You two. All right. Jack says we have one more minute. Oh, one more minute!
+
+[50:45] All right, so when you take a carbon steel knife and cut through an onion, uh you'll see that it picks up a flavor, right? The onion picks up a flavor and the onion tastes uh the onion tastes bad. Uh and I did some more research, and old timers used to rub onions on their knives to develop a patina on the knife. And I looked on the web and people are now uh for um kind of environmentally friendly corrosion inhibitors making garlic extracts that they rub on knives as corrosion uh inhibitors on knives. So there is, and it's it's basically these sulfur compounds that are in uh that are in onions, in alliums in scallions that are uh interacting with iron, right, to inhibit corrosion in uh on an on a knife, but they also take up the bad flavors into the onions themselves.
+
+[51:33] This is apparently th the theory of operation in the stainless steel anti-uh onion smell on your hand thing. But I don't know if those work because those are stainless. It'd probably be better off using carbon steel blocks instead of stainless steel blocks to get rid of the onion flavor. So there is an interaction between onions and iron. Uh the other thing is that if you look at people on the web seasoning with the chives, it's basically a way uh to scrape around and also move oil around so that the oil is not sitting in one place.
+
+[52:00] So the the chives are the these like chives, the long chives or garlic chives, are one uh kind of uh interacting with the metal, taking metal away from it. I don't think it's adding a good flavor to the pan. I think it's removing bad flavors from the pan, right? And and absorbing those bad flavors onto the onion, absorbing uh, you know, any sort of uh free iron that's on the on the surface of it. Now the other thing is is that instead of uh onions, which don't act this way, the scallion things, because they're like paper when they wilt, they're almost like a scrubby pad that you're using along with the metal spatula to move the oil around so that you're not getting any caked-on pieces of oil anywhere.
+
+[52:37] So uh the theory is they're um interacting with the metal to remove stuff that you don't want that's on there, and they're pushing the oil around in uh in a nice way such that you have a nice even coating all the way around the pan. My bet this is a good way to season it. Now, why scallions and not something like garlic? Uh I don't know, I haven't used that much garlic chives with this sort of thing. I mean I've used them, but not that much.
+
+[52:59] If you were to use this with garlic, it would make a scorched awful flavor, which would probably mess with you and mess with your pan, but but chives don't have an awful flavor once they get charred. And so you can continue to use those chives all the way up until the char point, which is where around where you're gonna want to be to get accurate seasoning of the pan to get it nice and black. And there you have it, cooking it juice! Thanks for listening to this program on heritageradio network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes Store by searching Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[53:40] You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritageradio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
+
+[53:59] Get it straight.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by White Oak Pastures, a five generation Georgia based beef and poultry farm determined to conduct business in an honorable manner. For more information, visit Whiteoak Pastures.com. Broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.org. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:28] This is Dave Arnold. You're a host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from Tales of the Cocktail in New Orleans, Louisiana. Nastasha, as always, is back in Bushwick, Bushwick, Brooklyn, or Bertha's Pizzeria, with Jack and Joe and the rest of the Heritage Radio gang. How you doing, guys? Good.
+
+[0:43] Good. Nastasia was just telling me how much she likes Brooklyn. Yeah. No, I wasn't. Really?
+
+[0:48] Were you actually saying that? Or is it more anti-hipster uh Mitrial? That was a lie. That was a lie. I said they're having their block party, and I said I wish I liked Brooklyn so that I could come.
+
+[0:58] Well, let's uh let's push their block party. When's the block party? It's on Saturday. You know what? We'll play the block party commercial on one of the breaks.
+
+[1:06] It's it's uh it's a trip. Yeah. Yeah. All right. Block party.
+
+[1:10] If you like going to Brooklyn and you like block parties, two things I actually detest, because I you're being outside in the daytime in like large groups of people. Like I detest when they shut down no offense to people who love it, but I detest like street fairs in New York when they shut down whole avenues, and then you like walk up and down and it's all the people. You hate that too, Nastasha, right? Yeah, I hate it. My friends love it.
+
+[1:30] I hate it too. Yeah, but it's it sucks. I mean, who needs it? I mean, I can go to a regular store and buy a pair of socks. Isn't that what they sell there?
+
+[1:38] Yeah, but the corn the corn I must is pretty good. Like the corn and butter and chili sauce. All the rapes. Yeah. Yeah, a rape of a fine product, bad name.
+
+[1:48] Yeah, okay. I I'll hand it to you on that, but uh Yeah. The shirts and the sets anywhere bad. Yeah, but uh all the all the people and then like I always need to we always need to move equipment whenever there's one of those things, and then you hit them and then the traffic is insane and all this other. Why doesn't anyone just set up a shop to sell Arapas and corn a real freaking shop and then you would know, hey, I want like a giant thing of corn dipped in butter with some spice sprayed at that thing and I could just go to the shop and get that thing is they have to pay rent at a shop, the you know.
+
+[2:20] The street fairly there's plenty of things that you have to pay rent for that people go and shop for and purchase. Why not corn? Yeah. How much how much is how much is one of those years of corn at the at the thing? It's a dollar?
+
+[2:32] Yeah, come on. I mean that doesn't cost them almost nothing, I'm sure. I guess the problem is that it's seasonal because you're only getting corn in the summer and then what do you what do you dip in butter for the rest of the year? I don't know. You know what I mean?
+
+[2:43] Like they don't want to move to like a c frozen ear of corn situation. Those things are always disappointing. The frozen ear of corn, you ever had that? No. You buy the frozen ear of corn in the supermarket and then you try and cook it and you hope it's gonna be as good as corn is w you know in like uh July, August, but it isn't.
+
+[2:58] No. No, it don't start. If you haven't started already, don't start now. How's New Orleans? I mean, I literally just you know, got here, checked into the hotel and then uh, you know, d started doing the research uh for the show.
+
+[3:10] But it's you know, like you'd expect hot as hell. Mm-hmm. Humid. Humid. And the cocktail people have already descended.
+
+[3:16] So for those of you that don't know, every year, right around now, uh there's Tales of the Cocktail, which for the cocktail industry is the biggest kind of it's the biggest event of the year. You know, alm like a a huge uh chunk of the kind of whatever you want to call them, cocktail intel intelligente, whatever the hell you want to call 'em, from all over the country, in fact the world, fly in here uh to learn from each other and I guess drink a lot. And uh they have it in New Orleans in the middle of the summer because no one else wants to be here, and only the cocktail people are dumb enough to come to New York in the mi uh come to New Orleans rather in the middle of the summer when it's a billion degrees and a hundred percent humidity. But uh the the advantage is hotels are cheap right now. Hotels are cheap here.
+
+[3:59] It's like a hundred bucks a night to stay in New Orleans right now. Nastasha, not a big fan. Not a big fan. Not a big fan. Okay.
+
+[4:08] Uh now, two oh, by the way, calling your questions live to 7184972128. That's 7184972128. I believe we still have an open line to take a caller in, even though I am using one to call in from my hotel room. Uh for yeah. First question from Fred.
+
+[4:23] Hey, Dave, uh Nastasha, uh, Jack, Indie Jesus, and all the rest, which by the way, just say Joe, you don't see all the rest. This is like this is like one of those situations, uh this is one of those situations like with the with the with the skipper and Mary Ann with the with the with the Gilligan's Island. Where all they had to do was say one last person, and instead they just say the rest. It's Joe. But but they might be on like back podcasts and they haven't caught up yet, you know?
+
+[4:46] So Yeah, yeah. Alright, anyway. And remember, Indy Jesus is no longer part of our the old podcast. They might be catching up. Right, right.
+
+[4:55] But it's for so you know, Indy Jesus, because he hates Nastasha, has quit the shift that's on Tuesdays. So we m we might have to switch our radio show day to match up uh Indie Jesus. Sunday, no. Sunday night uh, Jesus works on Sunday though. No.
+
+[5:11] Uh-huh. Anyway, okay. Uh Fred writes in, I recently picked up a turkey roaster. It's a Hamilton Beach model 32503. Is it possible to beep frying one of those things?
+
+[5:21] How good is the temperature control? Thanks, Fred. Okay. So what we're talking about are these uh ovens that uh you well, kind of uh ovens. They look like giant crock pots.
+
+[5:29] Um this one uh I looked it up, it's 18 quart, which is I think one of the standard sizes. This particular model discontinued. Uh but they have a pan that you can pull out and wash out. You throw the turkey on top of a rack into the pan and you roast your turkey, and it theoretically it's faster. Also, it frees up your oven so that you can on Thanksgiving time use your oven for all the rest of the nonsense that you need your oven for and cook your turkey in this uh in this kind of basically this in quotes oven.
+
+[5:56] Uh it's kind of like you know, like a Dutch, it's like cooking it in a in a Dutch oven with its own its own heat source. Um and I think I mentioned on the show once or twice that I had one of those that I bought at a thrift shop from the you know, it was from the 60s or something like that, and I bought it in a thrift shop in college, and I used to bake bread in it. And I loved it. It was great. Uh smelled horrible because there was something wrong with the insides of it, but it still worked great, and it made great bread.
+
+[6:18] Um well, grape bread for for that. Great bread for a dorm room, let's put it that way. I mean, I don't, you know, it's not great bread compared to what our listeners think of as grape bread. Anyway, will it work as a deep fryer? It clearly gets hot enough to work as a deep fryer, and I looked up the wattage on uh uh on a on a representative one.
+
+[6:35] I couldn't find the exact one to find the wattage, but the wattage is somewhere in the area of 1400 watts. Uh and uh you know, you I doubt you're gonna find a uh fryer that plugs into a normal socket that's much higher than that, like maybe it would go up to 1500 watts, uh maybe a little bit higher. But uh none of the electric plug-in fryers really have uh as many watts as I would want them to have. Uh to because the key for uh frying is of course uh fast uh recovery. Now uh now the way that these things work is they're the pan uh that you put in the into it with the with the turkey in it rests on the plate that's actually doing the heating.
+
+[7:14] So you're gonna have some issue about uh some heat loss in between the plate and the and and the pan. But I'm mostly worried about stuff falling to the bottom and scorching on the bottom as the heater clicks uh off and on. I don't think the heating control is going to be very accurate at all. Uh but I don't think it's that necessary to have super accurate um heat uh for deep frying. But uh I think uh your main problem is gonna be uh scorching of particles on the bottom, because uh a fryer that's really, really good at its job isn't gonna be heating uh the electrical element's not gonna be the very bottom of the unit.
+
+[7:48] The element will be floating somewhat above the surface of the oil uh such that particles can fall underneath it and not scorch on the thing that's actually being heated. It's a better way to fry, especially doesn't matter so much if you're doing something like donuts because donuts don't throw off a lot of little particles. But if you're doing something like chicken in a batter and the batter is gonna fall off, those little bits of flour get burnt and are gonna get nasty against the bottom of the pan. That said, it should work. I do not think anyone will actually recommend that you do it because I'm sure the insurance on a fryer is a lot more and you want to make sure you don't uh have it overflow and uh ignite and or burn you or scorch you or anything like that.
+
+[8:26] So I'm not gonna make any claims to the uh uh safety of it, but I mean it should be able to do an okay job. Now here's the other problem. Uh 1400 watts is gonna be enough power for a small, small fryer to get up really hot really fast. But 1400 watts distributed over something the size of an 18 quart uh roasting oven is not gonna be that much power. And and in the end, so even though it's fairly powerful for what would be a home fryer, it's a lot bigger than what a home fryer would be, and so I think it's gonna be sucking wind when you throw stuff in it.
+
+[8:59] So if you were to heat it up to temperature and only throw a couple little things in, you might be able to get good results. But I would bet that if you really loaded it down with like, you know, like you know, a whole fried chicken or something like that, that the temperature would drop drastically and that you'd have some problems. But that's uh just my guess. If you um if you it is powerful enough for you and you just don't think the temperature control is good enough, you could buy a simple PID uh, you know, PID temperature controller and uh and a thermocouple and bypass the thermostat entirely. Just plug it.
+
+[9:29] Although you don't want PID, you gotta switch it, turn it off of PID, which is going to be a very accurate temperature control. And for deep frying, you want on off. But most good PID controllers that you buy, you can turn them into on off controllers, right? Uh so a PID controller, like it's just gonna slowly get up to the temperature and not overshoot. You don't care if you overshoot a little bit, you just want it to get up there fast.
+
+[9:50] So as soon as the temperature of the oil drops, you want it to go on full blast. But then you can have an external control that can be very accurate and uh well as accurate as an uh on off or bang bang uh thermostat can be. Uh and that wouldn't add that much to the cost, but you might have uh a power problem. What do you think, Stuzz? Is that a good answer?
+
+[10:07] Good answer. All right. Um Colin, dearest y'all, could you revive uh this question? Are pressure cooked jams a good idea? So I had to go back, uh, I think it was in May and found uh Colin's question on pressure cooked jams.
+
+[10:23] A few weeks ago, um I bought a whole boatload of uh cumquats uh and made marmalade, and then they wanted he wanted to know could marmal jam in jam in general be prepared in a pressure cooker to prevent the loss of volatile flavors, because he realized that the smell that he was uh that was coming off of the pot was uh smell that was being lost, right? That's the theory, right? Uh and so basically he says, what I understand is happening is that the boiling temperature of the uh marmalade or jam solution increases as water is being boiled off, and that stopping at a particular temperature in a pressure cook uh sorry, stopping at a particular temperature when you're cooking a jam is equivalent to stopping at a particular uh hydration level or amount of water or you know, or the or the solids level that's in it. Uh, and that we add extra water to a jam recipe because the pectin needs time uh to cook and break out, um, and and there there you have it. Um so the question is, could he seal the mixture in a pressure cooker and cook the jam without losing uh water or volatiles and get an equivalent texture with improved flavor?
+
+[11:28] The boiling temperature will increase at the increase increased pressure, but do you think that will affect the pectin uh uh slash pro you know properties of the jam overall? I suppose there could be more thermal breakdown of flavor in a pressure cooker uh despite the decreased loss of volatiles, what are my thoughts? Okay. Well, if you're gonna do it this first of all, uh here's the here's the issue. If you knew uh I I have to do some research and maybe during the commercial break, I can look it up because I I forgot to look it up.
+
+[11:55] But you need what you need to know is the actual solids level of the uh jam that you're that you're shooting for. If the solids level, uh the bricks is reasonable, like in the on the order of sixty percent or or or or thereabouts, uh 70% even, then you could uh probably just add the ingredients to a jar in a pressure cooker, uh seal it so that even if you had a non uh uh a venting pressure cooker, which I don't like using, I like using non venting pressure cookers in general because they uh I think they do a better job with flavor, but if you're sealing in a canning jar, it doesn't make much difference. Uh and and pressure cook it uh at that higher temperature. You could conceivably get uh a product that will work. But you have to know beforehand what the solid level of the fruit pulp is, and uh then therefore calculate how much sugar to add to it, and you'd have to get it fairly accurate.
+
+[12:58] Uh that is all doable, and if uh I don't know, maybe if uh Jack or Joe has the time to research while we're talking the uh bricks level, B R I X level of uh jam or jelly, uh you we could do a ballpark estimate of whether or not it's feasible to just add all the ingredients, sugar, fruit, etc. into a jar and uh pressure cook it. But uh it I mean it might be possible. I don't know. It would be difficult because uh you'd have to make sure you got it right every time.
+
+[13:25] Does that make sense? Yeah, you have a caller. Oh, caller, you are on the air. Hey Dave, hey Jack, hey Stas, how's it going? Good.
+
+[13:34] This is Matt from this is Matt from Chicago. Howdy. Hi, I had a question about uh low temperature cooking of skirt steak. Um I tried it uh sous vide with a recipe I found on the web and it was as tough as had I cooked it for you know over a flame for hours. And I wonder if you had any ideas on how to uh get better results.
+
+[13:55] Give me the recipe that you used. You know, I don't remember. That's the problem. I think it was the one on the poly science uh website. How how long did you cook it?
+
+[14:08] Jeez, it seems like maybe two hours. Yeah. And uh so h here's here's the thing. So if you're cooking a skirt steak, uh I I like to do skirt steak uh low temp, but what temperature you cook the skirt steak to is entirely dependent upon how long you cook it, right? So if you're only gonna cook the skirt steak for a couple of hours, you're gonna need to go fairly high, like uh uh uh fifty seven Celsius, let's say, which is a good number, fifty-seven Celsius.
+
+[14:39] If you're gonna do it for like an hour or forty five minutes or an hour and a half like that. Then you have to cool it down and then sear it. Because the skirt steak is so thin that if you um if you were to try to sear it directly out of the circulator, just overcook and you might as well not have done low temp at all. Okay. Okay.
+
+[14:57] I think I I think I did actually I think I did sear it afterwards immediately. So Yeah. I mean you have to sear it afterwards really, or the texture's not gonna be very, very good. You know, but you know the uh go ahead. Yeah, the other way to do it is to cook it down near where you'd cook a ribeye, so like fifty-five, uh, for a long time, like uh nine nine, ten hours.
+
+[15:21] Uh or you know, e and then let it let it cool down again and then uh just take it and hard, hard sear it and that will actually warm up the inside and overcook the outside a little bit, but that's gonna give a really, really high quality tender skirt steak. Um if you're it you the alternative, right, is to sear it beforehand like it's a normal skirt steak and then just quickly throw it into into uh into like a uh a bag and uh let it let it come up to temp in in a circulator. The problem is your crust isn't gonna be that great afterwards. Yeah and it's really a good candidate but it it isn't a good candidate for the double sear I I take it. Or is it well you can't you you can I've done a double sear uh on it and what the advantage of the double sear is that um the second time you sear it it's gonna color and crust up really quickly.
+
+[16:16] Um but you know then you you might might run the problem that you you know something goes wrong and you and you um uh and you you know dry it out a little bit I if I would definitely not on skirt steak pre-sear it before you low temp it. Um because it's gonna cure through fairly quickly with the salt. I would definitely I mean pepper is fine or whatever or whatever marinade you want but I would not uh I would not salt it um until right before the second sear. Okay that's interesting. I I actually use um lime juice in my marinade and it just makes it absolutely delicious.
+
+[16:50] And and I usually just do it the standard you know just sear it in a real hot pan after it's marinated a while and don't even bother with low temp but I figured I'd try it. I've got a I've got a rig in my basement for for low temp cook here for Soused and I figured I'd try it because you know I'm trying everything sous vide now that I got the rig. Uh and some things have turned out really good but the skirt steak is one thing that did not and I was just curious if you had any thoughts so I appreciate it. Do this and you're gonna you're gonna love this. This is what this is the way that I actually cook skirt steak.
+
+[17:21] Right. I would do it the I would not sear it beforehand. Uh I would do your do your your marinade or whatever else you want to do, put it in the bag, cook it uh if you don't have the time, fifty seven for, like I say, like an hour or so, or like fifty-five for longer, like six, seven whatever hours, it's gonna get more tender. Let it cool down, and then you can even have it in the fridge, pull it out and do your hard sear on it just like you were cooking it normally, and what you'll just have is you can focus on that crust and you just have a much more tender skirt steak on the inside than you would with a normal cooking technique. Okay, I'll give that a shot then.
+
+[17:56] Alrighty, let us know how it worked. All right, thanks a lot, guys. We'll talk to you later. You have another call, Dave. What?
+
+[18:04] You have another call. Okay, Cowler, you're on the air. Hi, yeah, afternoon. How are you? I'm doing all right.
+
+[18:11] All right. So um I'm a bit of a home brewer and um I've been doing a little bit of shopping on modern at the modernist pantry, and um I've been I've been referred to you uh to a solution for a problem that I've been having. Um I've been working on making cream liqueur. Um and uh I've purchased some sodium caseinate um from the modernist pantry, and I I was initially under the impression that that might help me to combine my dairy with my alcohol that I've been producing. And it it's stable for a little while, but I'll let it sit out at room temperature for about six hours, and I put it next to a very small amount of already store-bought cream liqueur, and the store-bought cream liqueur remains stable.
+
+[18:59] However, um mine it it doesn't split uh per se the um the the dairy molecules from the water molecules. Um it just separates into layers as as a thicker um uh uh homogenized cream on the top and a more watery, less viscous liquid on the bottom. Um I'm I'm doing further research and I'm I'm finding out that uh glycerol uh monas glycer glycerol monosterate might help me out GSM um but I was wondering if you had any advice as far as to how I would implement the GSM if I were to obtain some and if I'm maybe using the uh the sodium caseinate incorrectly okay well I had I uh I mean I have a lot of uh experience with emulsified alcoholic beverages but not making cream liquors uh as such uh what what you're using actual cream well I'm start I I I did one batch with a little with a splash of cream and then I did another batch with a splash of milk um I also tried use making my own uh uh condensed cream and using condensed like uh you know with I I think I used malt malt powder a little bit of sugar and milk and a little bit of vanilla and I made like a condensed condensed milk and used tried to use that I thought maybe the sugar would be a decent buffer to help bind the dairy to this to the liquor um I don't know if maybe my alcohol content is something that might be affecting it. I'm at about 22% alcohol content. So I'm not sure if you're but you're you're um you're you're yeah so you're not curdling at all you're just getting phase separation.
+
+[20:52] Yes. Yeah. Um I mean I'm guessing that I mean I don't I I've never researched like uh like Bailey's or anything like that, uh to see like what the fat content of Bailey's is. But if you're getting a phase separation, it just sounds like you need uh an emulsifier in there. Um you know, uh and you know what you're mentioning is uh you know isn't is an emulsifier.
+
+[21:17] The one that I I typically use in uh in the drinks at Booker and Dax is probably won't work for your application uh or it might is a mixture and this is not what the cream liqueur people use at all, but is a mixture of it's gum arabic which acts as a an emulsifier and Xanthan which acts as a stabilizer. Now you probably want to go to kind of a more of a hardcore uh uh emulsifier. When you get when you when you when the phase sep when you get the phase separation, if you just rock it back and forth, does it go back together or no? It uh I actually it does to an extent, but I think it's more of like the temperature that it's been sitting at for a while because all the ingredients I'm I'm mixing them sort of like the dairies just from the fridge. You know, I haven't gone I haven't been able to sit down and test it from letting the dairy sit out at room temperature.
+
+[22:12] I I also found that heat became a factor in uh the initial combination. Uh it was important that the that the dairy was warm in order to get the emulsification to work initially. Um and then once it cools down and it sits and it settles at room temperature for a while it eventually separates. Um and I can get it to come back together but then once I let it sit for about another half hour after, you know, uh spinning it back together, it'll separate again. I'll tell you what I'm gonna do.
+
+[22:43] I like uh this is an interesting thing. I should know I should know this uh just because of you know what I do for a living. So what I what I'm gonna do is uh I I'm gonna figure out what they do in the industry to make cream liqueurs and whether or not the what the fat level, if any, is of those things, and kind of figure out how they do it. Uh and then I'll come back pro probably not next week, because next week I don't know if I'm gonna be able to have the the radio show because I'm gonna be in the air on the way to um California, I think. But the week after that, I'm gonna come back and and answer that question, I'll give you a much more definitive answer, okay?
+
+[23:15] Okay. Um and uh if uh if by chance are you you are in the city right now, all right? I'm I'm in New Orleans, at Tails of the Cocktail. Oh you Oh, okay. I was under the impression that you were in in Manhattan or in New York City.
+
+[23:28] Um all right. Um well would uh would you would you be able to also I mean uh I know that you say you're gonna be going back on the air with these answers, but would there be any way you might be able to contact me directly? Uh it's possible. Give uh when you when you go off, give uh give Jack uh your info or maybe we could uh tweet it out or something like that. Alrighty.
+
+[23:48] All right. Uh thank you very much for your time. Uh do you um la lastly, do you would you think that the if I were to purchase some Glosseral Monastery, do you think that that might be a decent avenue to approach? I just don't I don't I don't wanna I don't want to rest say yes or no off the top of my head without uh really doing the research on it. All right.
+
+[24:09] Thank you very much for your time. Hi cool. Um, right before we take the break, right before we take the break, uh uh Joel uh Gargano writes in, who by the way is from New Haven, which is where the anyway, so Jack wanted to know does anyone want the Bluetooth, the the the music from my college days? And we got the first person in says that they like that. I wrote in a few months back about soy whipped cream.
+
+[24:34] Your advice helped, and I made some adjustment. It turns out that soft tofu coconut milk and some stabilizers uh works great right out of the siphon, the uh whipped cream siphon, but more importantly, I want more Bluetooth. This crap is heavy. Do we have a do we have a link to any of this anywhere? So, Jack, we have someone that wants the Bluetooth.
+
+[24:50] Wow. There it is. Right. So when you retire. Yeah.
+
+[24:55] Unfortunately, Joel, no Bluetooth today because it's only on my iPhone and uh we don't have it actually copied over onto the Heritage Radio um uh computers, so we're gonna have to go because enough of the cheesy jazz, no offense, I like jazz. Plus, he also wants pictures of me getting my face smashed in on stage, which I I don't think actually exist uh unf unfortunately. But uh, you know, he wants like stage diving picks and stuff like that. And then he he his suggestion is that we start a band where uh you know I guess he's gonna come in and start start a band with us where we write about my art reactions and agar agar clarification, and he wants to call it my art and the reactors. He's gonna let me have bass solos in every song, but he only wants to do it if we can get Indy Jesus to be the front man.
+
+[25:37] What do you think, Jack? We'll have to see. That's gonna be tough. He's in high demand. Yeah, Indy I'm sure every every band in Bushwick wants Indy Jesus as the front man.
+
+[25:46] Why wouldn't they? Yeah, right? I mean, even Nastasha would go to see Indy Jesus as a front man, and she hates hipster bands. Loves bands. Nastasha, by the way, like her one of her great lifetime skills is to be able to get into any any concert for free with uh and go backstage without having to perform any sort of awful acts.
+
+[26:05] I retired that. Retired, but it's like it's a you know it's a great skill. It's like I can shotgun a beer very well, also a retired skill of mine. I don't go around shotgunning beers anymore. Jimmy Fallon show.
+
+[26:16] It wasn't retired. It hasn't been retired. I didn't shotgun a beer at the Jimmy Fallon show. You won you asked if you could. Remember?
+
+[26:22] I was joking. Joking. Plus, they only have by the way, for those of you who don't know, we're on the Jimmy Fallon show, and one of their sponsors is Bud Light Platinum, which is basically Bud Light where they add some extra booze to it. It's like straight up, they add extra booze and they put it in like a a blue bottle that looks like kind of like a Saratoga water or a tiny bottle. But you can't shotgun out of a bottle, Sci.
+
+[26:44] It's a show that you know about. Yeah, yes. A a a joke. A joke. Although I am quite good at it.
+
+[26:55] I'm retired. Anyway, uh okay, so why don't we go to our first commercial break? Come back with more cooking issues. Oh my god, I don't seem that far away at all. Where'd you go?
+
+[27:30] Love you back at the LMO. Got a real real real way to go. Sister, hold on the day. Why don't passes is a hundred and forty six year old multi-generational family farm that works in cooperation with nature to produce artisan meat that is safe, healthy, nutritious, and good to eat. Without fail, we ensure that our production practices are economically practical, ecologically sustainable, and that the animals are always humanely treated.
+
+[28:32] We never falter in our determination to conduct our business in an honorable manner. For more information, visit WhiteOakastures.com. You're currently listening to Brothers NYC. Real long way to go. And we're coming back.
+
+[28:59] Yeah. Well, I I guess he's not the he's not the front man, but he's the lead guitar. That's his band. Is his is his twin also in the band? Yeah.
+
+[29:05] That's why they're called Brothers. Oh, yeah. See, it's hard for me to hear over the telephone. I can't hear anything. So we got we got Weepop Soupy Pot slash BAM on the phone?
+
+[29:13] Yes. Hi, Dave Intack. Hi. This is Weep. Weebop.
+
+[29:19] What's up? How's how's everything going? Going well. So for those of you that don't know what's going on, uh We Pop Soupy Pop, aka for the rest of the world, Bam. Uh just got his Kickstarter uh fully funded, and they are making a uh relatively low cost, simple to use at home, immersion circulator.
+
+[29:39] Uh and uh what's the cost of this sucker? Uh it is three fifty-nine. Three fifty-nine. All right, three fifty-nine. And uh, you know, I don't know, go on the K I don't know how how do you buy one of these suckers.
+
+[29:51] So right right now, Kickstarter campaigns closed. Uh so you just go to shop.namiku.com to pre-order one. Now what what's your ETA for actual uh units? ETA for um by Christmas. And I'm just gonna give Yeah, we we have a lot of demands we're gonna give priority to um the Kickstarter people.
+
+[30:12] But um we're we're still working that out. It should be the same batch. All right. So uh uh I hear that you have uh something to discuss over the cooking issues airwave regarding this. Oh silence.
+
+[30:30] Sorry, sorry, I guess. Yeah, silence cut off. So I guess not. No, I didn't I didn't hear you. Oh.
+
+[30:37] Uh you you had you you told me you wanted to speak about Ziploc bags. Oh no, um so yeah, we have we have a lot of emails uh coming in, you know, people being concerned with Ziploc bags. And you know, I I feel like a lot of people still have uh issues with cooking in plastic. So what what we've been doing? Specifically zip zip ziplocks though, as opposed to uh you know you're not getting any calls in uh with questions about cooking in uh sous vide cooked chill bags, right?
+
+[31:10] You have people calling with questions on on the um the wisdom of using ziploc bags uh for cooking low temp, right? Right. Yeah. Uh and well here's here's m here's my my thought. And the reason I guess is because uh on your Kickstarter uh campaign video there is a uh a picture of someone putting food in a Ziploc to um to do the the cooking with uh with your device.
+
+[31:38] What's your device called again? Uh the Namiku. Nami coo. N O M-I-K-U. NAMI coo.
+
+[31:46] Yeah, NAMICU. So um feeling on Ziploc bags. Uh I think I might have told the story once, but I you know I can tell it again. Uh I was doing the Martha Stewart show uh and then they they decided to just have like a bunch of like tech fools on. So uh you know Nathan was on via Mirvold was on via you know uh he wasn't actually on they they showed you know she did a tour Martha Stewart did a tour of his uh his lab there and they had uh Grant Akus was on and uh and I was on and uh so I was talking to Grant backstage Grant Aiket's of course from a Linia I was talking backstage that he was getting um a lot of flack from S.
+
+[32:23] A Johnson Wax a family company which is I believe the people that make the Ziploc bag uh and uh basically they yelled at him because he had a video on the web where he was using a Ziploc to do um to do his low temperature cooking. And uh and I I think it's really strange that they have a problem with it or that anyone has a problem with it because the Ziploc bags are rated for reheating uh in a nuke right I mean it says right on it that you can reheat uh stuff in them in a nuke. The issue is um like a Ziploc bag and I I could be wrong but I'm not is made out of uh polyethylene and uh uh you know and food food food grade obviously polyethylene and uh it's the same stuff that um uh most plastic wrap is made out of polyethylene and uh what it can't do is get anywhere near the boiling because boiling point of water, 100 C because it the it gets very very soft there and that's very close to the melting point. However, it works fine uh in the 50s and I never really take it above the low sixties ever because I I don't have a need to Celsius that is. But in that range uh they are perfectly fine and I d I can't understand any argument uh uh against using Ziploc bags uh for cooking low temp at those temperatures so long as you aren't assuming that you're preserving something for any length of time because you haven't put a vacuum seal on it, so long as you're not heating it uh above uh any other uh you know uh you know uh above in the sixties somewhere I can't see any argument whereby cooking in any form of plastic would be okay and not in a Ziploc under those uh circumstances.
+
+[34:19] Um do you know what I'm saying? Yeah yeah so like um the food food savers and a lot of you know side sealers that are on the market they're they're using the same kind of material and somehow somehow those are being like promoted or used with uh you know like the Google Supreme or whatever. Right well I just cook chill bags like even cooked chill I mean polyethylene is a good choice and I'm having a little trouble hearing you but polyethylene is a good choice for um for food applications just because it it doesn't have to have plasticizers in it uh and it doesn't react with food uh very much. Usually those bags that were rated to higher temperatures will have multiple multiple plastic layers uh and so that they keep their uh integrity at at at higher temperatures. Uh but again again like most of this is completely moot because we're keeping our temperatures very much lower than is ever going to be a problem uh when we're using low temperature cooking.
+
+[35:21] So I just I literally except for the fact that Johnson S. C. Johnson Wax doesn't I believe it's S. C. Johnson Wax does not want to uh have any sort of liability from saying you can cook in their bags as opposed to you know reheating in a very specific way because they don't want to assume that liability they just say you can't do it and then that that them saying you can't do it is just getting promulgated on the uh on on the on the on the web and and by people.
+
+[35:47] I mean I don't really understand any other sort of argument. I would love to hear from somebody what that argument is, but I haven't heard uh I haven't heard any good reasons. Yeah. Um th thanks for the mention last time on uh heritage radio. So our Namiku is actually 750 watts.
+
+[36:13] And uh some people have been saying oh that you know that's too low, whatever. But then I think I think for the purpose of um maintaining perfect temperatures I think seven hundred and fifty watts is way more than enough. What do you think? Well that was the one question I had when I talked about it uh on the air was uh I mean like what was the reason you went seven fifty instead of the full thousand that uh most of the other companies are using well that's just the uh uh the type of heaters that we're using and um for for the size that we're able to get it down to um we we've matched it up with seven hundred fifty watts. We've had some uh one thousand watts prototype however but um it doesn't it doesn't make it doesn't make much of a difference like how fast like you can you can heat the water.
+
+[37:00] Well what size bath were you testing on the relatively the same uh just just the re regular um I think the twelve twelve liter like fence yeah I mean the the ones where like the you know the the the the thousand watt uh circulators start crapping out uh any time you go above a normal full size lexan uh and then they start they start sucking wind. Um so I mean I I think it what just what you're doing by any by you know any sort of power limitation what you're doing is you're you're m um you're you're just uh capping the upper size of the water bath that you can reliably heat with it. Um you're also capping the recovery rate of it when you drop a large uh food load into it. So the for instance you know you you simply can't maintain easily any temperature it also depends on the temperatures you're trying to get to. It's a lot easier to get uh you know a water bath up to fifty five Celsius let's say than it is to get a water bath up to eighty five Celsius let's say because you're there's a lot more losses to the atmosphere because you the water wants to go off uh a lot more as vapor at those temperatures and so you're having to put a lot more energy in you're getting you know you know it's proportionally uh a higher temperature relative to ambient and so you have to drive it harder because you have higher heat losses out of your out of your uh your vessel so um a normal thousand watt circulator in a in a large lexan that's you know uh higher than the one that I normally recommend, I can't really get it to go above about fifty-five, and I can't ha it doesn't really drive an accurate temperature at those levels.
+
+[38:53] Uh you know, when you drop big loads into them, and so I only recommend using giant bass like that with a circulator for reheat where the temperature isn't as accurate, uh the temperature uh the need for accuracy isn't as high. So i you know, if you were cooking a smaller uh in a smaller vessel, like a half lexan, let's say, then I'm sure 750 watts is fine. But uh my question would be is is like how would a 750 perform in a full size lexan versus a thousand watt? I don't know. I've never I've never done it.
+
+[39:26] You know what I mean? So I can't tell you. Um I mean, but th those are just my concerns. I would bet for the for ninety percent of the people, if you were gonna work at home, very few people at home need to drive anything bigger than a half lexan. Right.
+
+[39:41] And and that and that's correct. That's why that's why we've designed the Namiku to um work with you know pots of any size from uh three quarts and up. So we we actually uh that was the the size that we had in mind and um seven hundred and fifty watts is more than adequate for those purposes. You know, anything anything bigger than um than the the lex band, then you know you're going uh a little bit overboard. Well for for for a house, yeah.
+
+[40:09] I mean you know you by the way, we pop w uh it you know you're in Bangkok now, right? Uh no, I actually I'm in San Francisco. I think uh and you're coming here soon. Yeah, yeah, I am. But I might not be able to do that.
+
+[40:22] So uh we we've We because Weepop is a product designer, but also went to the French Culinary Institute and and worked with us. So he knows that we can over st very easily overstuff a full size Lexan, but this isn't designed for that, it's designed for people at home, right? Right. So when are you gonna get one for uh for us to play with? Uh as soon as possible.
+
+[40:45] Uh we're about we're about to go into um production in China. I leave uh I leave San Francisco on August first and uh we'll we'll be in China for a long time until um we'll we'll supervise everything until delivery, basically. All right, well well listen, congratulations on the new product, and I might just miss you. I think I fly out when you fly when you fly back. When you get back in the country, uh you know, come and come and say howdy.
+
+[41:10] We love we love ourselves some weepop. We will. Yeah. But yeah, for for anyone out there who's never been to a Booker and Dyke Staves bar um in New York City, you need to go. Because not only not only that um the cocktails are amazing, if you take your dates there, it's gonna feel the deal.
+
+[41:29] Uh uh. Hey, check this out. We for those of you that don't know, Weepop was our very first caller ever into the radio show. Ever. Is that true?
+
+[41:37] And yeah, We Pop, very first caller of all times. And uh from Bangkok, by the way, and uh and you know, uh for those of you that go to the bar, we have uh uh Thai basil drink on the menu, but I don't know why they call it Thai basil, because you know we're actually gonna make a holy basil uh drink uh coming up soon, because we have a a regular Italian glove style basil drink that we really like, but we don't want to put two basil drinks on the menu? Because that's weird. But if we put three basilics on, and it turns out Nastasha grows a boatload of holy basil in in her backyard. What about that, We Pop?
+
+[42:10] That that sounds great. Yeah. We're just gonna call the drink Holy Basil. Holy Basil. That's what we're gonna call the drink.
+
+[42:17] What do you think? Sounds good, right? I don't know what's in it yet. We gotta get the basil and play around with it, but it's gonna be there. Don't worry about it.
+
+[42:22] We're gonna have like we're gonna have three basil drinks. We're gonna go basil crazy for the uh for the midsummer push. All basil all the time. Anyway. Alright, we pop, listen.
+
+[42:36] Have a good time in China building your product. We can't wait. Congratulations on the new venture. Alright, thank you so much. Bye.
+
+[42:42] Alrighty. Alright, so let's take one more quick break and come back with a little more cooking issues. It's from Bushwick Block Party on Saturday, July 28th, from noon to midnight. Saturday! Saturday!
+
+[43:00] Saturday! Savano! Sabano! Sabano! Saturday, July 28th!
+
+[43:04] It's a party in the street! Yes, I in la calle! La musica! Soft spa! Cookies!
+
+[43:11] Silicone sister! No use natural child! Tournament! MC Todd Experience featuring Bill Breezy, Sam Weiss, and Boston's best hip hop group, Gray Sky Appeal. Gang sign Wild Jack!
+
+[43:26] No! Solo performances by Team the Scott Ricard! Andrew WK! In the Roberta's Garden! Exclusive Tiki Disco!
+
+[43:36] DJ! Ali Escobar! Night Show! Sussman! Ryan Slack!
+
+[43:45] Death Killer! Still came back. Served by Smash! We drink just the bikini contest! Falls!
+
+[43:53] Komida! Momo Cafe Arma Heritage Foods Let's Arancini Brothers Imperial Woodpecker Snowball. Deserved by KDP. He robins! Sponsored by Spanish Vitamin One!
+
+[44:11] Want Con Food! Fans! Martin Greenfield Globier! Momo Susie Shack! Roberto!
+
+[44:18] Death Killers of Bushwick! Green Fitness! Heritage Radio Network Dot! Bang Drag! Dr.
+
+[44:27] Bobby Buka, Dermatology! Jelly Gen Young! Pizza from 12 to 2 while supplies last minute to one margarita pizza per person. Acoustic performances from Dear Old Pells and free advice. No shark can be harmed in making this block party.
+
+[44:39] Possible performance from Joe Bishop. Oh, Bishop. Somehow some weird thing happened with the phone guys was going, sorry, Dokes out there. Must have been that block party commercial. Hey, we've only got a few minutes left, Dave.
+
+[44:50] We got a one o'clock, so. Alright, cool. So uh I only have one last question, so I'll take it right now. Uh Brian writes in Hi guys, gals. I saw on Starshef that you guys use grade C maple syrup at the bar.
+
+[45:02] What does it taste like? I want the smokiest, earthiest, funkiest mushroomy syrup that there is. When I googled around buying some, I saw that it's only for commercial applications. I also saw that they may have changed the rating system so that grade C is now grade B. Also the Canadian rating system is different.
+
+[45:19] What's the and where can I get it? Thanks again, Brian. All right, Brian. Uh, what I did was I called up the maple syrup uh producer and said, Hey, listen, can I have some grade C uh maple syrup? I know you have it.
+
+[45:35] And he said, All right, don't tell anyone, uh, because I guess he didn't have a label for it or whatever. A poured it into a quart, you know, container, uh, you know, a quart uh maple syrup container, just slap two B's on it, which was the code for C grade, and uh, and and I bought it at the at the regular price. Now, uh, those of you that didn't hear anything before that we say the C-grade maple syrup is basically uh maple syrup when it starts its rhyme at the beginning of the season is the lightest and kind of least uh has the least conjunctor, the least kind of flavor in it, and then as the season progresses, it gets more and more conjuncts and gets darker and has uh kind of more and more different different flavors. I like the grade C but it can be a little weird. It doesn't necessarily play nice uh with other ingredients the way uh that B does.
+
+[46:28] I mean, I've I I use B in cooking at home, I use B on pancakes, uh, I use B in drinks, and I think every bartender I know uses B in drinks. Uh C was a little rough on some of the drinks that we tried it out. I like it. It's really intense, but it can almost go metallic in certain uh in certain applications. But it's definitely something you should try to uh have around.
+
+[46:54] And uh hopefully that helps. This has been cooking issues. Oh, you got me on the screen. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[47:33] You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage Underscore Radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritageradio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
\ No newline at end of file
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Whole Foods Market, a dynamic leader in the quality food business, a mission-driven company that aims to set the standards of excellence for food retailers. For more information, visit Whole Foods Market.com. Broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.org. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:29] This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from Roberta's Pizzeria on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from roughly 12 to 1245. Joined in the theater. Theater, huh? Theater. Theater box.
+
+[0:42] In the in the containerized box. In the uh back of a bird's pizzeria with uh Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. How are you doing, Nastasha? Good, how are you? And Jack and Joe in the engineering room.
+
+[0:52] How are you doing, guys? Hey. Uh okay, first of all, a a thank you. A thank you. Uh uh, I'm gonna Michael, I'm gonna call you Mike.
+
+[1:01] I'm gonna butcher your last name. Does anyone here know how to pronounce I'm terrible at pronouncing? So I was gonna call you Michael. I don't want to destroy your last name. Okay, here's I'm gonna try it anyway.
+
+[1:11] Sizuski. Sizuski? What do you think? Let's hope so. Stas, right?
+
+[1:16] Especially because so nice. Sent me us a copy of uh Fuchsia Dunlop's book, A Land of Plenty, A Treasury of Authentic Sichuan Cuisine. A book, by the way, which I do not own, even though I've been meaning to get some Fuchsia Dunlop books because uh she was recommended to us by uh our good friend Harold McGee. Because she uh showed him around uh various places in China when he was there. Anyway, he writes, uh, thank you for answering my questions on seasoning pans.
+
+[1:42] Enjoy the Dunlop. It is a great book about my favorite type of Chinese food. Thanks for all the effort you put into the podcast, Mike. Very nice. Nice.
+
+[1:48] Very nice. Thank you. Alright. Now, uh, a Twitter question I missed from last week from uh Barry uh Moncasey. I hope.
+
+[1:58] Again, with me with the pronunciation, I should just never pronounce the name. Hey, listen, when you're writing something in, uh, even if your name is Smith, assume I don't know how to pronounce it and just put a little pronunciation guide next to it. Am I right or wrong? Because I'm a moron. True?
+
+[2:09] True. Uh anyway. Uh the question was uh tweeted in clearly over clearly overcooking a shrimp boil. Uh everything's abbreviated because it's Twitter. Uh uh shrimp, sausage, corn, potato, onion, uh, garlic, and zetteran's spice.
+
+[2:25] Uh question was perfect sous vide uh recipe or timing. Okay. Uh I'm interpreting this question to mean that whenever you cook shrimps, the shrimp boil, you're overcooking the hell out of the shrimp, uh, which is definitely the case, probably. I mean, definitely the case. Um I'm assuming that you're not overcooking by too much uh your sausage, uh, your corn, uh, your onion or potato.
+
+[2:47] Uh, and you're definitely not overcooking your Zataran spices, my guess. But uh I am not a huge fan of uh low temperature shellfish unless they are post-finished. Now, usually, let's say I was gonna cook a lobster or a shrimp. Anytime you're gonna cook a shellfish, you don't want to cook it for too long. Because if you cook it for too long, even at a very low temperature, uh the enzymes in it keep working, especially at a low temperature, actually.
+
+[3:12] The enzymes keep working and they turn mushy. In some cases, they can almost turn to a paste. And it's the most revolting paste that you've ever put in your mouth. In fact, you feel like you have to spit it out. Now, it doesn't always happen, and I can't I haven't figured out yet why sometimes shrimp has this enzyme in it that does that to it, and sometimes it doesn't.
+
+[3:31] Maybe someone out there knows why it's uh a variable situation. However, I actually prefer uh when things uh shellfish are cooked, not overcooked necessarily, but cooked at a higher temperature and have that slight springiness to them, but don't uh but you know aren't over aren't totally overdone. Uh lobster, the way you would cook a lobster, let's say, so I assume shrimp is somewhat similar, uh low temperature, is usually you would put it into a bath of uh butter uh at roughly uh 60 degrees Celsius for roughly this is after you've taken the tail meat out. Uh you put it on a skewer and you put it in there roughly 10 minutes. So that's what you're looking at for low temperature.
+
+[4:12] But the texture of it is always very, very soft. And uh I actually like a little more bite to my um lobster than that. Now, on shrimp, what I typically do uh whenever I'm doing uh kind of boiled things with shrimps is I'll uh rip off the shells and and heads uh and I will roast roast them to get some flavor and then infuse them into the soup base separately, pull them and discard them separately, like you know, basically grill cook the shrimp uh at a high temperature until it's just done, and then at the very end, as I'm putting the soup out, I will fold it back in. That way I get the maximum flavor from the shells and whatnot into the although a lot of the really thin shell shrimp we get, there's not as much flavor in the shells as you'd like, but you get the flavor from that in your into your uh into your soup base, and you don't uh viciously overcook the shrimp. On the sausage, I usually recommend cooking my sausage at 60 degrees Celsius, and you can cook that in a bag and then post chop it up and fold it in later.
+
+[5:16] You're not gonna get then any flavor of that sausage into the stock, so you might want to reinforce the stock with uh some other flavors if you're gonna do it that way. But the best way usually to handle it, because none of those ingredients cook properly at the same temperature, the potato is gonna need to be at least above 85 Celsius for a pretty uh you know long length of time to for it to cook out properly. Or not really 85, whatever, whatever. Yes, about that. Uh, an onion definitely above 85 Celsius for a good length of time to cook.
+
+[5:42] And so none of these things want to cook at the same temperature. So typically I cook them individually, add the flavor to the stock in layers and recombine at the end. And I do that all the time with any sort of uh so if you like when you're making like uh oh my god, the name's gone out of my head. The uh the soup that uh is from uh the soup that like bully-based uh spicy bully based with sausage with garlic bread in it from San Francisco. Anyone, anyone, anyone?
+
+[6:06] No. Oh my god, sounds like almost like the Italian word for onion, Cupino. Uh yeah, so uh when I make Capino, I I cook everything separately, you know, and make a stock basically from the bones and the drippings from the juice after I steam out, I'll steam out like all of the um you know mussels and shellfish and whatnot, save the steaming juices, uh make a stock with the fish bones, cook the stuff, and then recombine it all at the end. And that's always been the best way I get the maximum flavor and nothing's overcooked. What do you think?
+
+[6:33] That's good. Good. All right. Hey Dave and group and group, group, uh from Matt. I recently have made two dishes in my pressure cooker.
+
+[6:42] One was a chicken stock based on Hessen Blumenthal's recipe. Hessen Blumenthal recommends uh finely chopping up the chicken pieces and then either deep frying, I think, or roasting. I haven't actually read it, but this is my is my impression of it. Uh, and then pressure cooking that uh for I think quite a long time. Um of course he doesn't mention it in the book, but I looked at the pictures of it and he recommends using a coon recon pressure cooker, which it visually he recommends it, uh i.e.
+
+[7:08] that's what he uses, uh, because it's non-venting. Uh, if you go back on the cooking issues blog back to you know 2009 or whatever, you know, I wrote a bunch of posts or one, two posts on why I think that's very important that your pressure cooker not be venting out when you're making stocks, because the stocks from a pressure cooker that allows steam to escape tend to not taste as good, in uh in my opinion. Uh okay. Uh one was a chicken stock based on Heston Blumenthal's recipe, and the other was octopus based on her web recipe. In both cases, when I removed the lid, the smell was less than appetizing.
+
+[7:38] I don't know if I would call it a sulfur smell, but in uh but in that family, in the sulfur family. My wife had thought the chicken had gone bad, but it smelled fine when I put it into the pot. I thought it was maybe uh sulfur from the onions or garlic, but then I did it with the octopus and got the same result. For the octopus, I used water, salt, paprika, and pressure cooked for 45 minutes. Uh I know there was no onion, and I don't think I used garlic.
+
+[8:00] Also, I've done tons of meat with onion and garlic in the past and never had any problems. Any thoughts on what's causing the odor? Okay, it's definitely not the onion. In fact, uh onions are almost completely deodorized by pressure cooking and um and looking behind it, by the way, with these kinds of things, authors in the past, uh notably Julia Child in uh Mastering the Art of French Cooking, has uh notes on the pressure cooker that says she doesn't like certain things in the pressure cooker, pressure cooked stock is one of them because she says that it has a pressure cooked taste. Uh going back and you know reviewing what she's doing, I don't think what she's talking about is what you're talking about.
+
+[8:35] I think for her, like part of the problem is is that uh as anyone who cooks a lot in the pressure cooker knows, especially stocks, you need to double and triple the onions in the recipe because they're just not going to come through uh as much, or add some at the end after it's been uncapped. She also probably didn't take into account the fact that there's very little to no reduction on the inside of a pressure cooker, so she has all of her stocks uncapped and then simmered afterwards open for another hour or so to get the flavor where she thinks they should be for uh for a normal stock. So I'm not discounting Julie Child because of course Julie Child, you know, no one ever discounts anything Julia Child says that's be crazy. That's like you know culinary suicide to discount Julie Child. But uh I'm gonna have to say that I'm not sure that her uh opinion is necessarily well taken on pressure cookers.
+
+[9:20] Now I've never had what you're describing uh happen in a chicken stock. My question is did the did all of the giblets go in? Maybe you're getting an effect with the liver cooking for a long time in the pressure cooker. I don't know. Uh it's that's never happened to me.
+
+[9:34] I've never gotten an off flavor from a chicken stock. I will say that I do not cook chicken stock as long in the pressure cooker as many other people do. At home I actually only cook it for about 25 minutes at 15 PSI or both rings but uh at the school when I was running uh the tests we were doing it 45 minutes. I know people are cooking it a lot longer. And I think uh going back to your octopus that the main problem on your octopus might be the length of time you're cooking.
+
+[10:03] Most of the recipes that I've seen uh have the octopus only cooking for uh twenty to thirty minutes. I think if you overcook it too long you might be creating some flavors in there that otherwise wouldn't be there. Uh uh otherwise I can't explain uh what's what's going on there. But it's definitely not the um it's not the onion it's not onion or garlic. If anyone out there has an experience with this and knows what we're talking about and is and has experienced this kind of off flavor I'd really appreciate you writing or tweeting in and saying what's going on because um I'd love to solve this problem.
+
+[10:36] Uh sorry, Matt that I don't have anything more dis uh definitive to say, but uh there it is. Okay. Um Jack, you want to go to our first commercial break? Uh yes. All right, here we go.
+
+[10:46] Call back with cooking issues. With Ocode How. You betcha and how I'm pow. We're fooling around all over this town. I'm pow.
+
+[11:06] I'm pow with shooting dice, cause it's a vice. Our late each night. And that's not right. So I'm pow with Wahina's two. Believe me, it's true.
+
+[11:22] At Whole Foods Market, we believe in healthy snacking, eating our veggies, and supporting local. Check out Brad's Raw Chips, a local producer that created irresistible chips after their namesake's successful weight loss with a raw lifestyle. Their chips are gluten-free, nutrient-packed, and so good that you'll think you're indulging. For more information, visit Brad's Rawchips.com. So the music is the song is called I'm Pow from a band called Plexophonic, who uh mailed us their CD after hearing me talk about original music on cooking issues.
+
+[12:05] So we got the CD mailed to us in the office with a nice note that he's a longtime listener, and that's his band. Nice. Plexifhonic? Yeah, pretty good, right? Yeah, I like that.
+
+[12:14] We'll play some other stuff from that. Yeah. Plexophonic. Plexiphonic. Right?
+
+[12:18] I got that. Yeah. I got a Twitter question in also, by the way. What do you got? We've got uh from Danny Combs.
+
+[12:25] I think I pronounced that right. Um trying to make an extremely thick simple syrup, glucose syrup thick for his bartender, and it keeps crystallizing. Any suggestions? Yeah, it's very, very difficult to make simple syrups with sugar that are as thick as glucose syrup. In fact, um for several reasons.
+
+[12:44] One, uh the glucose uh inherently doesn't form crystals as much as sucrose does, right? So right off there, you know, you're off the bat, you've got issues. Secondly, uh there are uh other things in there, dextrins and maltextrins in glucose uh syrup that are adding to the um uh thickness of it, but uh aren't going to form crystals. So you're kind of shafted two ways there. Uh glucose syrup, uh if my memory serves me, is uh a guy of bricks in the area of about 80%, meaning glucose syrup is about 80% solid, which is hard freaking core.
+
+[13:21] Uh you know, I typically when you make a rich simple syrup, when you make a two to one simple syrup, you're talking about a bricks of about sixty-six, right? Uh regular one-to-one simple syrup is a bricks duh of fifty if you do it by weight, which is how we do it. Uh, even at a mere 66 bricks, right, which is a two to one simple syrup, it can start forming some crystals eventually in it. Uh you might be able to push that up a little higher, 70 or so, but you're not going to get much higher than that using sucrose. Uh you could use uh an invert, like a tremoline, which will have roughly similar sweetening properties to it and get the sugar content that high, but not with uh, you know, regular Domino's uh sugar that you have uh on well, I'm not pumping the Domino's brand, but you know what I mean, regular beet or cane sucrose that you have sitting on the shelf.
+
+[14:14] Uh you could attempt to invert it yourself by long cooking, but in general, then you're gonna have problems with uh turning brown and all this. So i I think you're kind of in for a world of hurt trying to get that. You could artificially thicken it with um thickeners, but then it's going to have that artificial thickener. And so the question is why do you want it to be that thick? If you just want it to be much sweeter without adding water, I think you're gonna be SOL.
+
+[14:39] Uh another alternative, I mean, the glucose syrup isn't very sweet. Uh you know, uh none of those things are really. I mean, uh they're really, really thick. I'd have to know why you wanted it thick to recommend a way to do it. But you're not gonna get a regular 100% sucrose syrup that thick without it crystallizing out.
+
+[14:57] Just will not happen, uh, in my opinion. Someone call me in and tell me that uh I'm wrong. Oh, speaking of calling in, call your questions to 718497-2128. That's 718497-2128. Is that right?
+
+[15:09] Yeah. Okay. Uh all right. So uh going back to our questions. Uh hey, Dave, Nastasha, Jack and Joe.
+
+[15:20] Curious, uh, from behind Wall Street Journal's uh paywall, which I guess I mean they illegally sent it to me. Well, or they paid for it, so it's not easy. They're just asking me a question. I'm not calling this person out. It's from Steve.
+
+[15:29] Uh he says, a professor is trying to use distiller's grain as a healthy food additive, although I don't know how healthy it is. My understanding is most of it's mostly fiber remnants from grains. I'm against ethanol from grain, but if it's created, it may be good to find a variety of uses, or perhaps it's a fooled fool's errand. Also, uh, and this is the this is the opinion of Steve, and not necessarily the opinion of anyone here. Uh Arthur Daniel uh ADM is uh the devil incarnate.
+
+[15:55] What do you think about that, Jack? You hate that. You hate the ADM, right? What's that? Archer Daniel Mid Midlands or however you pronounce it.
+
+[16:01] You hate are you pro again? They're the devil incarnate, according to Steve. I have no comment. I have no comment because I don't want anyone knocking on my door and putting a bullet in my head. Uh I'm kidding.
+
+[16:11] They don't do that. They don't they don't I don't think. I don't know. Anyway. Uh thanks for your great program, by the way.
+
+[16:16] I can never listen live, so the podcast come in handy. Okay, so from the article, basically the the story is that when you're distilling uh anything from anything, you have uh left over after the fermentation and boiling process, you have whatever you had left. So if it's grain, it's grain. If it's spent uh grape, you know, whatever it's spent if you're doing brandy, it's it's that. So uh uh you there's all this stuff left over.
+
+[16:42] Uh now what are you gonna do with it? You don't want to just throw it away because that's a waste. You paid for the grain or whatever, and so now you have to do something with the leftovers, otherwise you're you're a moron from an economic standpoint. Now I've actually tasted uh directly wet distiller's grain uh spent from uh the production of makers uh mark bourbon, and I thought it was pretty good actually, because it's got a weird little kind of a a funky flavor to it, but uh that's not what what it doesn't get served to people. Typically, what happens is is it gets sent to livestock for the livestock to uh to gr to grow on uh because it's cheap.
+
+[17:18] Uh it's basically a byproduct, and if you feed it to something to make meat out of it, then win win. Okay. But in this article on Wall Street Journal, this uh guy, a Mr. Uh Krishnan, uh his whole idea is he wants to send he wants to use these things in human food products. Uh but what he's doing is basically what everyone does when they have a cheap food product is they try to make it as bland and tasteless as possible so they can jack it into foods without you noticing.
+
+[17:45] Uh in other words, here's what he says. Uh literally, this is a quote from him. If I can make it bland, then I can do lots of tricks, he says. He then tests uh how much regular flour, this is directly from the article. He tests how much regular flour he can replace.
+
+[17:59] If I put too much in there, he says, it'll be a brick. Uh and cookies, uh, don't go beyond seven percent. Chocolate chips come in handy too. I can hide anything if I have enough chocolate, he says. Uh, and that just goes to show you I mean, anyone who knows me knows what I'm gonna say right away based on what he says, which is if you're adding something because you want to save a nickel and jack food with it, then I think you're you're doing some bad stuff to food, right?
+
+[18:26] Now, theoretically you can make some argument that it's not basically it's it's it there's a lot, there's protein. There's a lot of protein in spent grains and a lot of fiber. So if you're having problems with the pooper and you need a lot of extra fiber in there, or if you're the one American uh who can afford to buy cookies that are jacked with uh uh you know, dispen uh spent distiller's grain and also has a protein deficiency, right? Because I doubt that the that the loads and loads of hungry, which there are many hungry people in the United States, people tend to forget this, a lot of hungry children in the in the United States especially, which is horribly sad. Uh I don't think those are the people who are gonna be able to afford to go get uh, you know, cookies that are jacked up with uh with spent grain.
+
+[19:08] Do you think, Stuzz? No. Yeah. So uh that could be wrong. Uh and also like it seems kind of gr even if it was that, it seems kind of gross to be like, hey, look, I'm gonna make these cheap cookies for these kids that don't have nothing to eat, and so what I'm gonna do is jack it with stuff that nobody wants.
+
+[19:22] Does that seem right or wrong? Seems wrong. Uh I mean, just from a mental note, it seems wrong. Uh anyway, so right there I'm saying uh this is not something that I'm hyper interested in. Um the I mean, as as a feed for cattle, uh, it seems like it it's fine.
+
+[19:38] Uh I was doing some research on it, and uh there's basically they either dry it out uh and use it that way because it keeps a lot longer, or if you live very close to where a distillery is, you can feed them the wet product. Uh and it's fed typically uh in in areas of like 10 to 20 percent of the total uh ration based on dry matter. This is according to uh KS grains and their DDGSF, which is uh dry distiller grain uh fact sheet. Uh and it basically they say that at those levels it doesn't make the meat taste like crap, i.e. they can't tell the difference, uh, and it can be uh economical.
+
+[20:15] Um and so basically how much of it's used is directly tied to whatever the current price of corn is. So as corn prices go up, uh the uh use of this stuff is gonna go up as well because it's we're gonna make it anyway. Now uh heh, the other thing that's useful for in feeding cattle is to prevent uh or to help prevent uh acidosis, which is a system uh where you you're not supposed cows aren't supposed to eat bay basically hugely carbohydrate rich uh diets all the time. And if they do, it can throw off their uh their rumen and basically eat eat away the lining of their rumen with the pH of their system gets messed up and uh and then uh well it's terrible. You can't cure you're they're done.
+
+[20:53] It's nightmare. So anyway, so feeding them this, which is lower in carbohydrate can help reduce that apparently. Now uh one thing I will say uh and and uh you know uh about this, and again, like what this guy is doing in this article is is is basically totally removing all of the uh aroma and flavor, which I actually think is quite interesting. If if you were gonna do something with spent grain, spent distiller's grain, what you should do is taste it and say, hey, this has a flavor, this has an aroma. What the hell would this taste good in?
+
+[21:23] I mean, that's what you should be doing. Of course, then you'll never soak up the eight billion pounds of the stuff or whatever it is that we make from uh fermenting ethanol. And I'm sure that most of the stuff that's made isn't made at the same quality as maker's mark, and so tastes like like behind. You know what I mean? And so if you're dealing with stuff that's poorly made, then uh there's not much use for it.
+
+[21:42] You know what I mean? Like uh I mean I'm sure I could find good uses for makersmark's grain or any one of the other distillers who we like uh their their grain. Uh but these guys have to totally de aromatize it with a bunch of different procedures. Now, uh going back it whenever I want to know what animal what feed stocks do to animals, traditional feedstocks do to animals, I turned to uh William Ewat, who was writing in the mid-1800s uh and wrote one of my favorite books of all time, and you can get it on the Google books, uh, and it's called the hog. And in other editions, it's called the pig.
+
+[22:16] I'm using the hog, the 1865 edition. If you go through it, he lists all of the feedstocks that were available to feed pigs at the time, and any time you had a bunch of less crap left over, one of the things you would do to it is feed it to pigs to make meat out of it. And uh what he says is, and certain things obviously are are delicious, acorns and whatnot, uh, but he says uh the refuse, this is from the 1865 edition, the refuse wash and grains and other residue of breweries and distilleries may also be given to swine with advantage and seem to induce an intensity to lay on uh to to induce a tendency to lay on flesh, but you must not do it in too large a quantities or unmixed uh without uh other more substantial food, as although they gain flesh rapidly, when fed uh on this alone, the meat is not firm. So you ought in the eighteen hundreds, and you know, you take it with a grain of salt, uh, but you what apparently was well known back in the day that if you fattened too much on these spent grains, that yes they fattened up, but the meat didn't taste as good as it otherwise would. So uh so there there you have it.
+
+[23:22] There you have it. Um should I take one more question before we go to a break, or do you want me to uh go to another break? Uh yeah, we got some tweets too, whenever you're ready. All right, give me a tweet, and then we'll go to break. I'll give you a tweet.
+
+[23:32] Once I zested this is from Andrew Switzer. Once I zested some lemon limes and oranges, I forgot about them for two weeks and cut them to find them extremely sweet. I have not been able to replicate this. Any idea what happened? The lime specifically tasted pure sweet with no acidity.
+
+[23:47] Wait, now the lime itself or the zest? Wait, he zested the lime. He doesn't know what happened. Huh. And it was I I'm I am baffled.
+
+[24:02] I I I am baffled because citric acid, uh, you know, so let's take the lemons. Okay, lemons, the main acidity in them is citric acid. Uh it should not uh it should not go away. It should not volatilize, neither should it be broken down. Uh the same goes in limes, which is a combination of malic acid and citric acid and succinic acid, uh not in that order.
+
+[24:28] Uh and those should not break down. Uh it's well known that acidity decreases in apples on storage, but I haven't read anything about uh increasing the availability of air to the inside of fruit on a lemon or a lime, causing the acidity to go down. Now, if you happen to be in an area that's growing, there are lemons and limes that are sweet, but I'm assuming that if you had picked it off of a tree of unknown provenance that you would have said something like, I picked this lime and lemon off of a tree of unknown provenance, in which case you might have gotten one of the rare and I think insipids. And Stash, you didn't like those, right? The sweet limes and sweet lemons?
+
+[25:04] No, no. They're kind of weak, right? Because they didn't have as much power as like an orange has. You know what I mean? Flavor wise.
+
+[25:10] Which is weird because like here they're my favorite citrus fruits, and all of a sudden you take away the acid and they're uh so I'm extremely curious. I'm gonna have to do some research on that and see whether or not I can figure anything out. But no, I have no explanation for it. All right, well, we have one more quick question. It's not really a question.
+
+[25:26] So this is from Landon Young, gonna be in New York City in a few weeks. Restaurant suggestions near LaGuardia. And then with the hashtag awaiting second coming of Indy Jesus. Uh aren't we all? Aren't we all?
+
+[25:40] Really. Aren't we all? Uh wow, near LaGuardia. Yeah, I know, right? Yeah.
+
+[25:45] Well, what is that near? What's the now I uh I have to be honest. Now there's there's there's uh there's two kinds of people. There's people who actually explore what what we Manhattan people call somewhat pejoratively the outer burrows. And then there are other people.
+
+[26:00] Uh I don't I mean like I basically, and this is gonna sound really it's it's just because my son does not like getting on subway trains in the weekend, but I do not uh which is strange considering that he is obsessed with subways. But I very, very rarely, with the exception of Roberta's Pizzeria, get to eat in the outer burrows very often. So I don't really know much around. What do you got? Jackson Diner in Jackson Heights.
+
+[26:23] It's uh Is that close to LaGuardia? Yeah, it's relatively close. So says my map here. Well, that entire neighborhood is is world renowned for having in interesting uh uh ethnic foods of uh you know and that that Jackson Diner has been famous for many, many, many years. Uh I just didn't know it was close to LaGuardia.
+
+[26:41] Seems like it. Yeah. That whole neighborhood, if you just search that that neighborhood on uh Jackson, uh there's a zillion blog posts on that whole neighborhood and every everything uh everything going on in it, and uh and that the one that Jack just mentioned, particularly famous, but Google around in there. Nastash, you ever eat out there? No.
+
+[27:00] Th the some of the restaurants in LaGuardia are pretty good. Come on. Seriously. Which one? Come on.
+
+[27:07] Um, I don't remember the name, but it was it was really good. She's like, that was the best blueberry muffin that'd been wrapped two weeks ago I ever had in my whole life. Is it Sabaros? Shut up, Jack. All right, and with that, we will go to our second commercial break.
+
+[27:25] I wish that I were twins. You grip big baby kins. So I could love you twice as much as I do. I'd have four loving arms to embrace you. Four eyes to idolise you each time I face this one's I Wish We Were Twins by Plexophonic.
+
+[27:44] What couldn't four lips do? When fault is you say that I'm yours, dad. I wish that I were twins. You great big baby kins. So I could love you twice as much as I do.
+
+[28:05] This is Brandon Hoy, co owner of Roberta's, and you're listening to Heritage Radio Network.org. Donate, donate, donate, donate. It's for a good cause, man. Heritage Radio. Super awesome dudes.
+
+[28:17] Snacky tunes. And that other show where dudes get drunk. I love Nicole Taylor. Hot Grease. Dave Arnold, Cooking Issues.
+
+[28:25] Farm Report. Patrick, Patrick, Patrick, Patrick. Patrick Morton. Listen to the radio because it's better than the TV, because it doesn't have pictures to distract you. Learn about food.
+
+[28:35] Donate at Heritage Radio Network dot or I like that. What why don't we get the Sunday, Sunday, Sunday monster truck effects? Sunday, Sunday, Sunday. I can do that. You might get a surprise next week.
+
+[28:50] Alright. I love I mean, like if there look, I never actually is that true? Have I ever been to a monster truck rally? I don't feel like I need to because I saw the commercials growing up so much when I was a kid that like, you know, that's that's all I needed. Everything I needed was there, and the and you know, and the and the and the seeing the truck like crush the other truck on the advertisement was I didn't feel like I needed to see it in the real life.
+
+[29:09] Have you ever been to a monster truck rally? Any of you guys ever been to a monster truck rally? I have, yeah, when I was a kid in Long Island Out East. Was it awesome? I I mean I was a small kid.
+
+[29:17] I remember it feeling awesome. Yeah. Yeah. It may have not been awesome though. I think maybe the reason was I saw like a televised monster truck rally once, and there was two monster trucks, and the idea for those of you that have never left your house is that monster trucks they they have giant, giant wheels, and they roll over other cars and crush those other cars.
+
+[29:35] And so they basically they they they try to race each other over a bunch of cars that they crush to the finish line. And uh and they also do things like pull each other and things like that. But uh, I've watched on TV, super excited, and uh neither truck actually finished the race because both of them either one flipped over and the other wheel fell off. Like they none of them made it over. So it was kind of like a want worm.
+
+[29:56] Maybe that's what uh soured me to the whole thing. Even cooler yet, when I was a kid, we I I saw a demolition derby, they called it, which essentially. Oh man, I've always wanted to go to a demolition derby. So cool. We should, you know, that would be a fundraiser.
+
+[30:09] What if Roberta's we all got a bunch of cars for like a hundred and fifty dollars, filled the sides with concrete, and had a like a heritage radio, Harris Radio Demolition Derby. I have a ninety six Nissan Censure I'm willing to donate for that event. Yeah? I mean, I'm uh that would like that's like a lifelong dream to be in a demolition derby. Oh man.
+
+[30:27] It's so baller. We we have a collar, by the way. Oh, all right, caller, you're on the air. Hi, Dave. Uh this is Marv Woodhouse calling from Wuppethal in Germany.
+
+[30:36] So uh I'm quite stoked to actually get through to the show. Uh I had a question. Uh I have a two-year-old and four-year-old uh child who are getting increasingly fussy about food. What do you feed your kids? Oh, oh my God.
+
+[30:50] You know what? This is like this is i i it's like it's it's like your kids learn whatever they can to punish you, right? And it it's like, you know, if you eat everything and try to serve them everything, then they will go the exact opposite direction. I end up having to I have a we have a a couple I have a couple of problems with it. One is that my cooking time with during the week is limited to roughly 15 to 20 minutes a night.
+
+[31:15] And so I have the added problem of it has to be quick. Uh I also have the the issue of like like the the the pitched battles that uh you know that you get into over food, but you know, like you know, you you do something you think they're gonna think is delicious, like cauliflower because it's not green, because for some reason, as soon as kids start hanging out with other kids, everyone gets together and has some sort of pow wow about how green vegetables are disgusting. So you're like, okay, I'll get you this cauliflower and I'll dump cheese sauce over it, which is universally and inherently delicious, and then yet you get this pitched screaming battle, which is impossible to to understand. So my c all my kids want to eat is steak, hot dogs, and hamburgers. And so you have to filter that through, and which is weird because before my older son Booker was uh when he was, you know, three and four and below, would eat anything like fistfuls of capers, olives.
+
+[32:09] Uh you know, I I I end up having them to sneak sneak things and then they end up liking it. Like for some reason they've they've developed uh a like for uh squid, you know. Uh yeah, uh initially you have to like fudge it with them a little bit. I'm I'm very, very much against lying to adults about what's in food and we'll get to that later. But uh with your kids, I think it's kind of an obligation to lie to them and then shame them later into uh you know, in in into eating.
+
+[32:35] Otherwise they're just, you know, all they want is you know, kasukai gummy candies and uh and uh hot dogs. Yeah, we have a problem uh I mean, like you talk about steak, hot dogs and hamburgers. We have a problem that uh my kids don't really go for protein, so they would eat pasta, particularly Nockey, like five days a week. Uh if they were allowed. Uh Nokia and pesto.
+
+[32:56] Uh so can you can you think of anything that's kind of uh like just not just white carbohydrate? Because especially in Germany, they they they would uh like to eat pasta and bread. Yeah all the time. You got them hooked on the spetzel yet? Or you don't want to you don't want to get 'em hooked on another white carbohydrate.
+
+[33:15] Uh yeah, uh man. Well in Germany, you're in the so you they you can't get 'em to do you guys eat meat or no? Yeah, we yeah, we do. But but the kids don't really uh I mean they're they're digging sort of salami and stuff, but they they're not really big on like you you give them chicken and they'll kind of poke at it. What about forced?
+
+[33:35] Do they like forced or no? Uh yeah, but uh it's quite different. We we come over from Ireland and it's quite different, so that they're they're not really going for the texture of the verse because it's a lot firmer than we'd have been used to over over in uh over in the UK. Right. Uh they're different, but both delicious.
+
+[33:53] Uh because I was gonna say, like, you know, what I would typically do, like I I I I get their vegetables into my kids also eat pasta, so I usually get the vegetables into that via purees and sauces. Uh we try and watch the the the verse and the salami because like we don't want to be just feeding them salt all the time as well. That's fair. That's fair. Uh yeah, that's uh that's an interesting it's interesting problem.
+
+[34:18] Um kids are so like here's here what we do, honestly, and uh so my kids now are seven and ten, and the the deal is is uh our current mode, and I can't say whether it's any better or any worse, is we cook whatever we want for ourselves. If they eat it, they eat it. If they don't, they don't, and which is we have a no complaining rule anymore, which doesn't appear to work. But it's just we s we decide to kind of give up on what they want with the exception of two, three days a week. We'll we have like hassle-free meals and I'll make whatever it is that they that they want, assuming it's reasonable.
+
+[34:51] Uh and then the rest of the time, like i it is what it is. I try not to do anything that's gonna be overtly gonna uh uh irritate them and make them angry because that's just pushing things too far. But uh, you know, and then eventually you find like the weird stuff that like for like for like even though my older son you can't get him to eat any vegetables at all, for some reason sauerkraut, he'll pound sauerkraut like the end of the world is coming. So uh you know, fine. Here's some sauerkraut.
+
+[35:14] And he loves canned sardines, good, so do I. Here have some canned sardines. But it's only through just like uh treating them like they're gonna eat everything and and just serving them everything that they're gonna do. I haven't had as much luck, unfortunately, hiding things in other things as I would uh unless it's like you know, something that they know what it is, a squid, and they won't eat it until they've eaten it, and then you're like, you like squid, and they're like, Okay, I like squid. But they you know, that but yeah, I wish I could be more helpful.
+
+[35:42] I read something about a a pasta sauce with broccoli. Oh yeah, that's easy. If they won't eat broccoli, yeah. So uh you know, basically you just take a chicken stock, which is another meat thing there, um, and then uh you can thicken it with a roux, but it's not necessary. Uh and uh chop up uh brocc whole broccoli, including stems, chop the stems finer because uh and I also peel off the very outside that's tough on the bottom because unless you have a very good blender, it won't puree well.
+
+[36:09] Just throw all those things into the chicken stock, uh blitz them to to blend them up. Uh I usually throw in uh some chunks into the in the blender if you're blend my blender's pretty good. If it's not, you have to pre grade it of uh you know, you know, your favorite grating cheese, and uh I crack a couple of egg yolks into it to thicken it while it's hot, uh, and then toss that into uh into I usually use a thinner pasta with that because it's a really kind of creamy sauce, so I like pastas with that that are creamy, like uh Angel's hair or something like that. And then we probably try pasta. Like they reject that.
+
+[36:41] Oh well, it also will work with a shell or something like that or whatever. Although that would also work with gnocchi, but I you know I feel bad that your kids are making you make gnocchi every day. Oh no, no, this is the packet stuff, but it's not too bad. So I mean, like the fastest way to make the gnocchi is the one where you you know it's not uh traditional or authentic, but you make it a little bit looser than you normally would, put it in a pastry bag, and squeeze the pastry bag over the boiling water and cut it with a knife as it goes into the boiling water. And then you can have uh and then you know, there were there you can increase at least the potato ratio higher than you or you could you you could do whatever you want.
+
+[37:14] I mean, that was a r recipe I got in the eighties from Jacques Papin, who's that's the way he used to do it, and it's kind of no fail and much less messy way of making gnocchi than if you wanted to try and do it rather than uh uh you know, rolling on boards and all this. What do they teach you guys to do, Staz? You never uh did that with uh Chesare? No. No.
+
+[37:33] He did one with um ricotta. I'm sure that's good. Yeah, potato. I'm sure that's good. But yeah, but that's a good way to hide some chicken stock and some broccoli in their in their pasta.
+
+[37:41] And my kids actually. You can buy it in vacuum packs, uh, and and it's just brilliant because it like takes literally one and a half minutes to cook and it's ready. Oh, that's all yeah, no sweat. Uh I also tend to blend a lot of anchovies into uh sauces, and that's a way to get anchovy in there and and everyone uh it's a well known fact that everyone likes anchovies and no one thinks they do. So uh, you know, that's another good thing.
+
+[38:07] Uh that works that's not gonna work in a broccoli sauce as much because you'll notice it more, but in tomato sauces, nothing pops a tomato sauce like some anchovies. That's the one time I'm allowed to lie to my wife about what I'm putting in our food, because sh she she will not eat it if she knows anchovies are in there. Right, but they're delicious. Right, right. Like like is there any better pizza sauce than like uh like uh reduced tomatoes uh blended with anchovies in it?
+
+[38:31] No. No. It's pe pizza sauce with anchovies in it is freaking delicious. It's delicious. And yet nobody thinks they like it.
+
+[38:38] And yet it has never once been rejected when I've served it to someone. Ever. Ever. Hey, that's awesome. Oh, and by the way, you you I don't know.
+
+[38:47] Uh I sent you a message on Twitter. You you can shotgun a bottle. Yeah, that was you. How do you how so how do you shotgun the bottom? How do you get the air in?
+
+[38:54] You stick a straw in the top. And it's just as fast. It's just as fast as a can? I put a big hole in the side of a can with a key. If you put a drinking straw in the top of the bottle and then just put your mouth around the top of the bottle with the drinking straw in, it lets the air in.
+
+[39:09] Alright, well, I I I just said to someone else that I'm retired. I haven't shotgunned one in a long time. I misspent yeast. Alright, so we'll we'll we'll uh we'll we'll I guess we'll have to try it. We'll have to try it and see what happens.
+
+[39:23] Alrighty. Well, thanks for the tip. That's awesome. Okay. You got another.
+
+[39:29] Oh, uh caller, you're on the air. Hey David's up. Brian, how are you? Hey, doing all doing all right. Your cell's cutting in and out.
+
+[39:36] I'm trying to hear you. Tell tell what's going on. Okay. No. Medium.
+
+[39:42] Yeah, a little better. Okay. Um question. I tried making my own homemade fish sauce and it turned out completely putrid. First of all, so w what did I do wrong?
+
+[39:53] Um, and second, is it even worth it to even try making? Okay. I just buy it store like Red Boat, which is the high quality one. Yeah. Uh I've had other people's homemade fish sauces that were delicious.
+
+[40:06] The person that I would look at, although I don't know if she's published anything recently, is Sally Granger, who is making her own Roman style fish sauce uh garums. Uh and I had her homemade fish sauce, and it was some of the best fish sauce I've ever had in in my life. Uh it is going to go through a putrid phase. I mean, it's going to be did it not c did it not clarify out. Did you not have the stuff sink to the bottom and the liquid come up?
+
+[40:30] I mean it was I I pretty much threw up when I opened up. Yeah, yeah. Well, how long how long into the process was that? It was three months. Oh, yeah, so you waited long enough.
+
+[40:42] It should have been okay. Uh but did you not add enough salt? I I that maybe that's the issue. I mean uh but but you know, it isn't garum different than fish sauce in that harum is just kind of strained uh but but there's not a fermentation to it. No, that's uh the the stuff that they sell, the anchovy stuff that they sell now, uh, and I don't know why the name just went out of my head, the Italian product that starts with a C.
+
+[41:09] I don't know what the heck's wrong with me here. Yeah, colotura, there you go. Uh that stuff is not like uh original garm. Original Garum is very much like fish sauce. There were many, many different types depending on how much fish was in it and what type of fish and what part of the fish.
+
+[41:25] So uh and and that changed uh depending on what era in uh Roman culture you're in. Uh Sally Granger, who uh did uh I think one of the best uh kind of a peaceish translations along with her husband as a scholar of this, is was working a couple of years ago, and probably done now, her PhD on Roman fish sauce, and she's the one who's uh one I tasted, and uh she had made one uh all from guts, the guts of uh fish, which is what the one of the highest levels of garment was during a pecious time. Uh and uh it was fantastic. And no, it is f it is fermented, uh definitely that way. Uh, my guess is is that if it was extremely putrid smelling on the order of like a Surstroming, which is the Swedish putrid fish, uh, that you just didn't have enough salt because that in fact is how Sir Stroming is made.
+
+[42:12] You under salt the fish and then let it ferment. So I'm gonna go ahead and guess that you uh just didn't have enough salt in the mix. Okay. Uh that that that that may have been that may have been it. Uh and I it's important to use the the gut that had the whole fish, or should I use only gut?
+
+[42:32] Uh well, all of them make uh all of them make will make a fish sauce. It just depends on I mean, I think the the enzymes in the gut uh help to uh get it going. The enzymes and bacteria in the gut help to get it going. So, you know, I wouldn't uh remove them, uh, but uh, you know, I think I either will work and have been used, every part has been used at various times in in history, all getting a different product. I mean, I think the like I said, at that one period, the highest end garland garum was just from the guts, but typically the high end garum was produced uh the literature from whole, very, very fresh whole mackerel that have been unbled so that the blood is still in them.
+
+[43:13] And uh and so then, you know, they break down quite nicely with uh the addition of enough salt into delicious fish sauce. And I know it works because I've tasted it. And and and where can I find it in about about tally? Does she have a book? Let's tell you.
+
+[43:28] Well, she uh you could look up her uh, you know, the uh uh the apecious is whatever it's called, De Ray Coconaria or whatever it is. Uh she's uh was the the person on one of the more recent ones of that, and she's out of England, but I don't know what university she's doing her PhD in, but her name is uh Granger, I believe spelled with an I G R A, I believe it's G R A I and G E R Sally Granger. And she's uh she is probably w or is one of the world's great uh authorities on that subject. Okay, I'll lift her. Cool.
+
+[43:58] How you thoughts. Oh that stuff's amazing. It is, it's incredibly delicious. Uh go buy it now. Don't wait.
+
+[44:06] Find if if you know where you can buy it, buy it now. It's delicious. Uh it's different from the other Jap famous Japanese fish saucy, uh, which comes from uh Ishikawa, which is also delicious, and tastes uh remarkably like the Roman uh guts only garum because it's made from the guts of fish. So uh both of those you should run out and buy right now. Okay, I'm gonna try it again.
+
+[44:30] Let's see how it goes. All right, very good. Thanks. All right. Um this in uh hi, Dave, uh, Nastasha, Jack, and Joe.
+
+[44:39] A longtime reader of your blog and listener to the show. Uh the call number's now steering into my brain, but I can't call in when you're on and never recalled you giving oh my gosh, my phone, giving the um email over the air. So Nastasha, what email should they use? Do you want to set up a whole separate email just for rarely? No, okay, so give me the email.
+
+[44:55] Info at heritage radio network dot org. And send the questions to that and you'll forward it to Nastasha. Yep. All right. Uh so uh a second I gotta find out where I was.
+
+[45:07] Uh so there you go. That's a good way to get into the uh to the radio code. I have a follow-up from Andrew Switzer on the uh lemons. He says the fruit was store-bought and in the following tests to replicate the fluke, the zested skin molded. Huh.
+
+[45:21] Yeah. Yeah. Hmm. I don't know. Someone's someone's gotta have something on that.
+
+[45:24] We'll see. Uh okay. My second question, somebody's reading my iPad is acting up. My second question is um regarding homemade vegan cheese and meltability. Before Nastasha starts doing her vegan face, I must say that I'm a proud omnivore, but I buy meat from a local farm, have uh no qualms about the idea of animal captivity or slaughter if they're both done humanely, and have on a dare even eaten a hamburger while watching Pita videos.
+
+[45:44] That is kind of rough because I'm sure those videos are nasty. I'm sure they're nasty. However, I've been experimenting with vegetarian and vegan meat and cheese analogs for two reasons. One, because even though they can be bought uh entirely upon the uh they can be uh well sorry because even though they can uh they brought it on entirely on themselves, I feel bad for opening up a package of Boca burgers and teasy cheese for non-meat eating guests during barbecues. I by the way concur with that I hate buying having to buy store uh packaged crap for people when they come to my house because it's like hey you know what I cared about these other people enough to cook stuff for them but you because you have a dietary restriction you you get crap.
+
+[46:26] I I'm with you on that. And all and two, I like the challenge also a good reason. I feel like I've gotten soy and gluten based meat analogs down as uh as well as I or perhaps anyone possibly can, but I'm still having issues with making meltable animal pre animal product free cheese. I've tried a few recipes for betum and the best one so far was a nut butter flavored uh nut butter flavored with nutritional yeast and set with agar. It did technically melt but needless to say not to my liking.
+
+[46:52] I also read the labels of some of the more melty cheese analogs to find that many brands of soy cheese have casein in them so perhaps I might never get the meltability I'm looking for. I was wondering if you had anything to say on the issue other than just give them real cheese and tell them it's vegan before you launch into a 10 minute rent. Well I I would never do that. I do not believe in uh lying to uh Nastasha's different Nastasha will lie. Yeah yeah uh I do not believe in lying to people about what's what's in their food because uh not because I think it's gonna hurt someone really, but just because it's just not in me to do it.
+
+[47:23] I can't like then sit down with them and watch them eat something knowing that I've lied to them. It's just it's not in me to do it. Uh here's the problem with uh with it like that casein is kind of a miracle, and it's what it's the protein that forms the gel for cheese, and it's what makes cheese melt like cheese, and it's very difficult to uh replicate. So when they're replicating it, what they're typically replicating it with now is they're using uh, and if you look at all of the meltable cheese analogs, they usually have you can use high amyloe starch. High amylo starch will eventually uh melt out, and high amylo starch uh as opposed to normal starch uh has uh uh forms a kind of a rubbery gel when it sets, which is similar to a cheese.
+
+[48:05] So that's in a lot of cheese analogs. But you need to have uh basically you need to have a structure for the cheese, something that will melt on emulsifier and oil in there to make it uh oily like cheese, and none of those things can break once it's once it's heated up. Now, uh one of the new things, and if you look at a lot of the higher end ones, uh they contain a lot of pea, sweet pea products, because pea, first of all, pea starch is fairly high in amylose, and secondly, pea proteins have the ability to form a gel that is thermally reversible, i.e. will melt out. So it they also make some they're working on gelatin replacers, I think, with made out of pea proteins.
+
+[48:41] But uh both of the galaxy foods and dia uh foods, which were two fairly highly rated uh cheese analogs that didn't have any sort of casein in them, both contained a whole bunch of pea flour, uh or or pea products, pea protein pea flour, and they will set up to to form a gel. They also had uh oil in them and emulsifier, so you're gonna need to add those. Uh these are incredibly complicated, and and if you're gonna use mod uh like pre-gelatinized starches, these are incredibly complicated, and this is a huge dark art amongst people who do it. And many patents are filed on it. You can read the patents, but it's extremely difficult to get a really good product this way, which is why people are paid lots and lots of money to try to get it right.
+
+[49:25] If you want to see an interesting review, go to vegan baking.net and look at they have a bunch of these different cheese analogs and how well they melt. Uh and and you know, you can go look at the ingredients, which is basic basically what I did. Here's a way you can make a somewhat acceptable cheese analog that's kind of brain dead. Just take and make something that tastes cheesy to you, right? Using whatever you want, whatever flavors you want.
+
+[49:49] Set it with uh um my brain is so fried today with low acyl gel-an gum, okay, uh, and set it f at a fairly high uh thickness, like a half a percent, I think. I'd have to look at it number but and then blend it. And then you have the texture of uh it's uh well, that's what's called a fluid gel, okay? And that fluid gel is gonna be heat stable. So you can kind of make that fluid gel, the texture of kind of cheese that's melted.
+
+[50:16] It's not gonna be actually like cheese because it won't be gooey, but it will actually melt out, right? To a liquid to a sauce. This is how Wiley uh at a lower percentage does uh Wiley Dufrain does his uh mayonnaise and his uh his fried mayonnaise and his fried hollandaise. Then after you do that, you heat the mixture again and you add uh you're gonna add kappa caragina and locust bean gum as a mix, uh hydrate that, then set it into a block, slice it, it'll melt at roughly 120 degrees, uh hundred and twenty, hundred and thirty degrees Fahrenheit, and should be like cheese. It won't have the stretchiness of uh cheese.
+
+[50:53] Uh and I think Jack is shutting me down. So if I missed any questions, we got one more. We got one more. What do we got? It's uh a few pounds of skirt steak somebody bought.
+
+[51:03] Smelled fine, looked good, but when they cooked it, there was an overwhelming odor of blue cheese, which got more potent when they took a bite. It was not dry aged. Any idea? Yeah. How long did they cook it?
+
+[51:15] Uh I don't have that. Okay. Uh here's what happened. Uh you cooked it, it was low temperature cooked or no? No.
+
+[51:22] How does it read it again real quick? I bought a pew a few pounds of skirt steak, smelled fine, looked good, but when I cooked it, there was an overwhelming odor of blue cheese, which got more potent when I took a bite. What's going on? Well, is not tried. That's that's the classic, that's the classic problem of uh low temp cooking, not getting the temperature up fast enough, and you're having lactic acid bacteria that are growing before the meat uh can cook.
+
+[51:45] That typically happens in bags when the bags are uh sandwiched close together in a low temperature bath, and it takes more than about uh two, three hours for the meat to get up to temperature where lactic acid bacteria are going to uh grow. Uh and so that is the that's the only explanation I can think of, because it's never gonna happen cooking on a pan. Uh that that's a bacterial phenomenon, and it's never gonna happen cooking on a pan, as far as I know. Oh, by the way, real quick, on the cream liqueur, I said I would look it up, and I did. Uh that stuff that uh uh the person was calling in last week was asking about.
+
+[52:21] Um's telling me I don't have enough time to actually go through it. So next week uh I will talk about cream liqueurs, and yes, propylene glycol monosterate is used in them to help stability. So you can go out and buy it. I'll talk more about it next week on cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org.
+
+[52:47] You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritageradio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today.
+
+[53:11] Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] This podcast is sponsored by Talkspace. Last year I went through many different life changes. I needed to take a pause and examine how I was feeling in the inside to better show up for the ones who need me to be my best version of myself. When you're navigating life's changes, Talkspace can help. Talkspace is the number one rated online therapy, bringing you professional support from licensed therapists and psychiatry providers that you can access anytime, anywhere.
+
+[0:27] Living a busy life, navigating a long-distance relationship, becoming a first step father. Talkspace made all of those journeys possible. I could speak with my therapist in the office. I could speak of my therapist in the comfort of my home. I was never alone.
+
+[0:41] Talkspace works with most major insurers, and most insured members have a zero dollar copay. No insurance, no problem. Now get $80 off your first month with promo code Space80 when you go to Talkspace.com. Match with a licensed therapist today at Talkspace.com. Save $80 with code Space80 at Talkspace.com.
+
+[1:00] Today's program has been brought to you by the International Culinary Center. Offering courses that range from classic French techniques and culinary pastry and bread baking to Italian studies to management, from culinary technology to food writing, from cake making to wine tasting. For more information, visit international culinarycenter.com. Broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.org.
+
+[1:33] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live every Tuesday from the back of Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn at roughly 12. Here in the studio today with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez and Jack and Joe in the engineering booth. How are you doing, everyone? Good.
+
+[1:49] You were here early today. I was here damn early. I've decided that I'm gonna come to the studio and uh do some of my research here. See, typically the reason I'm late is I'm researching whatever the questions are up until the last possible minute, at which point I get on my bike and come here and you know, I'm sweating profusely. And and remember the one time I came and I couldn't breathe.
+
+[2:09] I literally had to go to an early break because I couldn't I could not breathe. Yeah. Uh, you know, plus uh I have to bike, you know, next to a concrete uh manufacturing plant, which you know I always inhale. It takes me a good fifteen minutes to get all the concrete dust out of my lungs. So I thought to myself, being, you know, like why not actually do some of the research here at the freaking studio, right?
+
+[2:30] Yeah. Doesn't that make mean like it's unusual for me to do something that makes sense? But you know, there you have it. So I start the research and I'm like, oh. I'll leave at uh ten instead of you know eleven twenty.
+
+[2:45] On that note we have a caller. Oh, caller, you are on the air. Hi, Dave, it's Brady. Hey Brady, how you do this is my cousin Brady, folks. My cousin Brady.
+
+[2:53] How you doing? I've got a uh important question for you. All right, what do you got? The cocktail related. Ooh, good.
+
+[2:59] So a cousin of mine um is she has this thing where she goes to uh like a dinner party every month or so with four other couples, and everybody's responsible for bringing in some sort of appetizer, and then they rank them by the end of the night, and someone is the winner, someone's the runner up, etc. Um and they've come in fifth out of five couples for the past couple of events, and their daughter's beginning to um I think think of them as losers, if you will. So the new one coming up is an adult beverage based on uh sort of Mexican themed. The the food is gonna be fajitas, and everyone brings in a beverage and they want to come in first. Um their daughter's like, we can't have a fifth place finish again.
+
+[3:37] Now, is it is the daughter gonna be consum consuming the adult beverage? No. She will be home with a babysitter. All right. Now, have they enjoyed all of the things they brought before and uh it they thought they were good or did they acknowledge that they lost or did they feel like they were robbed?
+
+[3:53] Because if they felt like they were robbed, my suggestion is get new friends. No, see, like the the last time I went, actually, um I was in Boston, I went with them and they were fifth. I mean, they're what they brought was still good, and all the food is actually really good, but they were fifth. They just are not taking it up a level where I mean the the other couples are taking it really seriously and they're sort of doing this in their spare time right before they go. Right, right.
+
+[4:14] Right. And the the other thing is this does not need to be tequila based. But it is uh Mexican themed. Yep. Yeah.
+
+[4:21] Well, I mean, uh okay, so uh so these other people are thinking a lot. Are these people uh are they kind of food snobs? Yes, but yes. Okay. So uh if people are not food snobs, I think it's a very bad idea to make them uh feel bad to guilt them into giving you points.
+
+[4:38] However, i if someone is a food snob, then the best way to win is to pummel them with evidence such that they feel that they are the smallest human beings on earth uh with their lack of knowledge. In which case I would suggest making something with an extremely rare mezcal. I'll go get an extremely rare mezcal, uh like a what's that one we carry now at the bar? It's like something Dalmas. Like it's like super tiny, right?
+
+[5:03] So it's not even that it's uh more expensive than some of the other stuff you can get that's better known, like Del Magwe and all this other stuff, Del Magid, rather. It's just that it's harder to find and so be like, you don't know about this? What what? You know what I mean? And then like right then mix with there.
+
+[5:16] But if you're gonna go uh um Mexican, I mean I would suggest maybe going w with with a mezcal. The there's a qu there's always a question of do you want to try to go over the top or do you just want to go uh really, really just like spot on? I mean, do these people live in New York? No, they live in Boston. Uh are you gonna be up there or no?
+
+[5:36] No, I'm not gonna be. They're live in Westboro, so that's sort of the western suburb of Boston. All right. Uh canned peach juice and mezcal. So it's kind of Mexican themed, but doesn't taste it's not just a margarita.
+
+[5:56] Uh-huh. And you know that I mean I think that's probably gonna be different from from anything that uh that's at at that place. They could probably go buy clarified peach juice and do something similar. I'd have to go get the specs in in in my head. I can give them to you later, but do you think something like that might might win?
+
+[6:11] I mean, uh I I have a feeling that if everyone's gonna do adult everyone's doing adult beverages, that's w just what they have. No, everyone's doing adult beverages and I I mean I'm not for sure that everyone's going to do tequila, but if it's Mexican themed, I can't see that you know, out of the five couples that four of them are are gonna think outside the box and do you know something that's gin-based but still Mexican and theme. Yeah. I mean, I don't even I'm not sure. I mean, like you could go super like our friend uh Evan Clem once did a uh you know uh corn-based beverage uh as his Mexican themed beverage.
+
+[6:40] Uh I mean there are kinds of things you can do. The question is how challenging do you want to get? Do you want to just go kind of like uh food like food knowledge geeky? Do you want to get like you want to you definitely don't want to go with tequila, you want to go with one of the other agave based uh beverages just to to you know kind of be an outlier like maybe like uh Sotol or or like a really interesting mezcal. Yeah.
+
+[7:01] Um, I think uh like, you know, what's in order is like a trip to uh my well and uh you know here in New York and just like look at the their cocktail list and then b basically steal some of their ideas. And that's the that's the the best way to do it. Now the the other question is is is is winning going to be strictly based on on flavor or are is it gonna have to be some sort of a strange garnish to pull out a win or at least like a second place? The only the criteria for winning is your favorite. You vote for your favorite out of the five.
+
+[7:30] Okay and you're not allowed to vote for your own, of course, so you vote on the other four. Right. Uh and uh do people tell stories? Um yes. Yeah.
+
+[7:38] So you gotta beef up on the story. Like half of this stuff is the story. I can I can uh I mean uh if you serve people things and you have a really good story beforehand, then you know that makes the stuff actually taste better because you have this big story. So I would choose s uh like some sort of a rare, although not necessarily expensive, but m you know, more difficult to source or strange uh uh spirit. I would then choose um uh like an herb or a fruit that is not kind of normal and then everything else can kind of even out.
+
+[8:09] Like you can just use lime juice if you want to as your uh as your acidity. I would probably do uh I mean, I think it's interesting to do stir drinks. W I wouldn't necessarily go for a shaking drink like uh like a margarita just because uh that's kind of what you're expecting. I would maybe go for a stir drink, which uh you could probably pull off a little more of the sophistication and that adds a little more to the monocle in the eye food snob kind of a vibe that I think you need to win these sorts of things. Uh and probably get some sort of a uh spot on garnish.
+
+[8:40] I mean, you know, at Booker and Dax we kind of we kind of don't typically do the the garnish thing just because we don't want to be labeled as like the you know the people who you know do all the fancy tech garnishes. Although in this case that seems like it'd probably be a good idea. Yeah, yeah. Yeah. Is it being helpful at all or is this too general?
+
+[8:55] No, this is helpful, but she also she sort of made a point of saying that she does not have liquid nitrogen. You know what I mean? So like they they can do stuff but um I think if it gets too difficult they're just gonna not you know they have two kids so if you're gonna do a stirred cocktail the best way to do it to get the temperature almost exactly right is uh especially if you're gonna use a fruit juice. So let's say they're gonna use a fruit juice in it. You can't use a fruit juice and a spirit and then stir it and then have the temperature right.
+
+[9:23] Okay. If you store the whole thing in the freezer then the temperature won't be right because it's going to be too cold. What they should do is just go buy uh some two inch ice cube cube uh freezing thing so that they can get like nice fairly nice I mean not like you know not super clear grade you know the style that we use that we pay a lot of money for but you know fairly nice ice cubes get like double old fashioned figure out whatever garnish their glasses figure out whatever kind of garnish they're gonna use freeze the ice cubes get the liquor base freeze that and then keep the fruit juice or whatever in you know plus whatever water they need in the fridge then when they mix the freezer uh they mix the freezer booze with the uh fridge um juice it'll add up to the exact right temperature in the glass at least usually does and so they can get something that's in perfect condition without a lot of stirring and mess and worrying about it and they all they have to do at home is you know but to practice is choose the booze, keep it in the freezer and whatever fruit juices are going to balance it with in the fridge, do their mix testing and then and then go. But a stir drink is going to be easier because it doesn't require a lot of texture. They can pre-figure out the um the the balance they need in terms of uh uh dilution, it can all be kind of pre-done mixed, and then just as long as you have access to that other person's freezer, bang, and then a nice two inch ice cube and then you know a a good either twist or some sort of fancy fruit as a garnish, and it shouldn't take too much longer.
+
+[10:48] It's gonna take more because they're gonna have to think in advance uh of what they're gonna do, but it shouldn't actually take many hours of work. Okay. Um I might say peach juice, if you can get clarified peach juice, even if you can't, it doesn't have to be clarified, it's just you know how that's how we roll, we clarify most things. But like something like peach and mezcal go very, very well together because it's reminiscent of smoky, kind of like a grilled smoky peach, which every which everybody likes. So like peach uh lime juice, some sort of like smoky mezcal, uh maybe even then balance with a little bit of uh tequila because mezcal can sometimes be a little overpowering in a drink like that, uh stirred with some sort of nice garnish in a in a double old fashion.
+
+[11:26] It's not a lot of work, but it's uh it's good. You're probably gonna have to add a little bit of water just because otherwise it's gonna be too intense, just like straight peach and booze and lime, too intense. And you might have to add some sugar to it, like a couple bar spoons of uh like demerara syrup to give it more brown sugar notes, which brings it more on the grilled peach. And that's just if you're gonna do peach, you could do a different fruit. But it is summertime.
+
+[11:47] Right. Um okay, so just and the final thing, you keep saying maybe throw a garnish in there, like what? What would be a good garnish? Everyone likes like some sort of like fresh piece of uh fruit. I mean, they can't vacuum infuse them, assuming they don't have uh vacuum.
+
+[12:01] I don't think so. No, but they could like you know, they could marinate some fruit in a different kind of a booze for a couple of days and then put it on a skewer and that always looks festive and tastes good. But it should taste good. Garnish is shouldn't just be I mean, I'm not an umbrella sort of I mean okay, I am. I really like an umbrella and I like a a cocktail monkey, I have to say it.
+
+[12:18] Nastasha, do you enjoy the cocktail monkey? Yes. Yeah, everyone really everyone we say that we don't enjoy it, but we all we love it. We do. Everyone does.
+
+[12:24] The little flamingo, I mean, who doesn't like that? You know? Uh so you know, there's that. Oh man, here's another one. If you really want to, if you want to go Looney Tunes, you can go buy some and and you know, but if you want to go on the kitsch side of Delicious, then uh go buy some fresh juice coconuts.
+
+[12:40] They're still available right now, and then serve everyone uh, you know, hack the top off, drain the stuff out, throw the coconuts in the freezer, those become the glasses, and then you can make a drink. Uh you i you normally I do rum with the coconut water stuff because it's but you could definitely balance out a mezcal or tequila drink with coconut water and uh and then serve it in in that thing of coconut, which is if you want to go on the kitch side, is cool. As long as you're like, oh, we know it's kitsch, but you know, the monocle pop the monocle out of your eye and then you say you know you know what I mean? Yeah. Um okay.
+
+[13:14] That's good. I wrote all this down, Dave. So that's very helpful. I'm gonna pass it along and um fingers crossed that she wins. All right, thanks, Brady.
+
+[13:20] Let us know how it goes. Thanks. Alrighty. Uh okay. Now uh I have some questions in from last week.
+
+[13:25] I'm gonna oh by the way, call in your questions to 7184972128. That's 7184972128. Okay. Uh question from last week uh that I didn't answer from Brian. I don't think I didn't answer the birch syrup question, did I?
+
+[13:36] No. Okay. Uh I've heard that birch syrup is uh also wonderful and different from maples maple syrup. What do you know about it? It is true uh that maples are not the only trees that are tapped for their sap uh to produce syrups.
+
+[13:50] Birch is as well. Um I have had birch syrup only once, and it was uh uh many years ago. I would say like six years ago when I first kind of learned about it. And I don't really I can't really say that I've tasted it because the sample that I got of birch syrup was in my opinion flawed. It tasted like it had kind of gone, it had a sour taste to it that I wasn't expecting, and it tasted like it had been burnt a bit when it was being reduced.
+
+[14:17] And so I'm gonna go ahead and say that I haven't actually had uh um birch syrup at its um at what I assume is going to be its best. I will say this about birch syrup. The production is incredibly small. Uh I you know, we should go get some more, see what it's like now, because I I love anything anything like that. You know, Stas, we should get some some birch syrup.
+
+[14:37] Uh birch sap has a much lower sugar content than maple sap does. And so you have to acquire more of it and boil it down more. But uh I'm anxious to hear anyone else's experience on birch sap. I mean, maybe it's supposed to have a little bit of a sour note to it. Maybe it's supposed to taste a little bit burnt, but my impression of it was that my sample was flawed.
+
+[14:58] And I handed it to a bunch of chefs. I gave some to Nils, uh, I gave some to a bunch of people. I said, Do you think that this is what this is supposed to be like, or do you think this is flawed? And everyone said this is flawed. So I don't I don't I can't say I know what it what it tastes like, but I also uh am intrigued and uh I love any sort of new new I'm a new ingredient freak, so you know if uh if you can if we can use birch syrup, then hey, let's do it, let's get it, right?
+
+[15:24] Yeah, sorry, couldn't be more help. Uh okay. Now we had another question uh that I didn't get to on um cream cream liqueurs, and I said uh I would deal with it this week. So here I am. So I looked up uh on the interwebs a uh some recipes, some industrial recipes for making uh cream liqueurs and what's what's in them.
+
+[15:48] And typically it does you don't you're not required to have uh an emulsifier in the cream liqueur, although it it can help. But they are typically in the range of twelve to sixteen percent milk fat, fifteen to 20% sugar, two two two and a half to three and a half percent sodium caseinate, that's milk protein, uh, nonfat milk solids, uh one to three and a half percent, and fourteen percent booze balance of forty-six to fifty percent uh water. Now, what does this mean? What is this what does this mean? It means they're fairly high in fat uh and they are clearly have in it milk solids and casein, and the casein is acting as the emulsifier there to keep everything together, which is a protein.
+
+[16:31] Notice the booze content, by that I mean ethanol, is low. So it's in the range of 14%. So uh I think that once you add more alcohol, the alcohol is going to start to destabilize the emulsion. So it, you know, the caller that called in before, I think he was having phase separation problems, if my memory serves me right, uh, not curdling, not breaking, but phase separation. And so to me that means that you the emulsion is destabilized.
+
+[16:57] Uh and that might be because the alcohol content is too high. Uh the other thing that you um might want to do, which is what he says, add an emulsifier. And uh by adding an emulsifier to it, you're going to reduce the amount of creaming, i.e., separate phase separation uh that you have. Uh and you're gonna want to go look at a book, and it's gonna be the next uh book that I try and get on the highly technical stuff called Food Emulsifiers and Their Applications by uh Gerard Hasenhuthoe, Hasenhutur, I think is how you pronounce the person's name. Uh and it really talks about the different kinds of emulsifiers and why you would use one versus the other.
+
+[17:32] And when you're when you're using something in a uh in a cream liqueur, you want to use what's called an alpha tending emulsifier, uh, and it's just a technical term, alpha tending uh emulsifier, and those types of emulsifiers tend to form films. They're film-forming emulsifiers that form at the interface between a liquid uh and and an oil or I should say a water-based liquid and an oil-based uh liquid or air or whatever. And so those film-forming ones are better at stabilizing things in cream emulsions, and one of those alpha tending uh film-forming emulsifiers is propylene glycol monosterate or PGMS. We have a caller caller here on the air. Hey Dave, it's Michael Matkin.
+
+[18:12] Hey, how you doing? I'm doing great. How are you? Doing doing well. I like like the cookbook.
+
+[18:16] How's the cookbook doing? It's doing really good. You know, we sold out the first printing, so that's exciting. Awesome. Congratulations.
+
+[18:22] Jack, can we get the applause applause meter on that? He's slow on the applause. There you go. Don't I'm blushing over here. Yeah.
+
+[18:32] So what's up? So uh I'm working on the equipment list for my first restaurant. It's gonna be a sort of a small lunchtime place. And I wanted to get your advice on whether I should go Paco Jet versus another kind of ice cream machine. Okay.
+
+[18:45] Uh okay. So you familiar with uh Pure Food here in Manhattan? No. Okay, pure uh it's called pure food and wine, right? That's uh Sarma Melingas' restaurant.
+
+[18:55] And uh she is the only person I have ever seen who does all of her ice creams in Paco Jet. Um, all of them. And uh and she had a an ice cream shop attached to the restaurant called I forget what the ice cream shop's called, like Lucky Duck or something like that, or one Lucky Duck. And she did uh like a lot of ice cream service just out of a Paco jet. So it is feasible, even in someone that's pushing a lot of ice cream to do it.
+
+[19:19] But how how much ice cream do you plan on serving? Um not a ton. It's not like it's gonna be an ice cream restaurant, but I want the flexibility that, you know, if I'm doing a dish to have an ice cream component on it. You know, I would imagine it would be smaller scoops. You know, it's not like I would be serving Sundays, at least not very often.
+
+[19:29] Right, right. So I mean, Paco Jet is fantastic at having lots of flavors available uh in smaller quantities. So you could kind of you you it's feasible to have like a flavor base that is there, and then you know, even if you only use a scoop a night, it's okay because you can only process the amount you need and keep the rest kind of and and you can reprocess it again and get it back into perfect temper. Unlike normal ice cream where you make the batch and then from there on out the it's turning to crap, you know, uh as you look at it, it's it's losing its its you know stuff. It's crystal, you know, decrystallizing, recrystalizing, blah, blah, blah, losing its texture.
+
+[20:13] Paco Jet is fantastic at uh at you know the perfect texture, you know, you know, because you just reprocess it if you need to. Right. How long does it take to spin one scoop? Uh not long. I mean, if you're spinning the entire uh Paco Jet uh container, uh that probably takes I don't know, two minutes or something like that, all told.
+
+[20:33] No, but three, maybe three. Uh it's loud. Uh, you know, so you wouldn't necessarily want to have it in front of a uh a customer, but it doesn't take a long time. And processing just you know one or two things doesn't doesn't take very long at all. The the one trick is you have to some people pre-spin some just because uh it's i sometimes it gets a little soft when it, you know, right after it's spun and they like to firm it up a little more.
+
+[20:55] The big problem with the Paco Jet is the freezer temperature that you have it at is critical to the making sure that if it's too cold if it's too cold, the product comes out kind of powdery. If it's too warm, the product comes out uh soupy. So it uh it's a lot about um temperature maintenance uh in inside the freezer, and especially during a busy service, going in and out, making sure you can maintain the temperature stability, and I think that's why a lot of people will process a couple of scoops and then you know keep those scoops in a dipping well or whatever. Uh but you know, I've done it uh out of a freezer. You know, everyone kind of gets that thing to work in their own sort of way.
+
+[21:32] The one uh some of the problems with Paco Jets are that uh if they break, they might have gotten better, but years ago, which is the last time that you know I had to use one a bunch at the school, uh if one breaks, they don't necessarily get you a loner instantly, and then you're without a Paco Jet. And so, you know, I've had to help people out. If you have a friend that has one, they can loan you one when yours is down, or if you can afford to have a second one lying around, uh, you know, then it's kind of okay. But you know, they break more, they used to break more often than, for instance, the Carpeganis do. Now, Carpiani, you know, uh, you know, the LB100 is going to take up a lot more space in your kitchen, which I don't know whether that's at a premium.
+
+[22:12] It's gonna cost like twelve grand. Do you know what I mean? That they're fan they're fantastic. But if you don't need the volume on uh you know on the on the Carpaganis, then you know, I would say you know, Paco Jet is viable. Just you know, just be aware of the of the issues.
+
+[22:28] Make sure that you that whoever you buy it from, uh you know, I haven't had to buy one in a long time, but make sure that whoever you buy it from is gonna help you get the parts quickly. It's not like all the parts are kind of proprietary on the inside, like all the belts and cogwheels are not labeled with any sort of normal labeling, so you can't just go to an industrial website and buy the parts for it, which is irritating. But um they're great. The texture is great. They're fantastic.
+
+[22:53] The other the other issue that's expensive is the stainless steel containers are expensive, and people in your kitchen are gonna tend to not realize that they're not Bain, Marie's, and sift them around, which can be uh also problematic. Uh the guys at Pure Food uh and wine used to freeze their stuff in quart containers and then jam those into the uh stainless steel buckets for spinning, and it works great. The one problem is is that if you jam it in crooked uh and it's loose and the blade as it comes down hits it cock eyed, you can shatter the blade. Uh so you know it's it's a question of what you know what risks are you willing to take. It won't ruin the Paco Jet, but it could, you know, could cause that that kind of a problem.
+
+[23:37] You're shoving it down in there in the plastic, or you're taking out of the plastic tub and shoving that block of ice down into the stainless. Yeah, the ladder. You pop it out of the uh you pop it out of the core container and jam it into the into the stainless, but it's not an exact fit. You have to really jam it down and make sure it's not at an angle. The b the the blade really doesn't want to all of a sudden hit something thicker than its you know incremental slicing.
+
+[24:00] Yeah, I got it. I got it. Okay. Very cool. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[24:03] But anyway, but yeah, I love Paco Jet. They're great. I mean, they really are great. For for all that I'm you know, complain about the fact that they cost a lot uh and you know that they're they're still fantastic pieces of equipment. Cool.
+
+[24:15] Well, thanks for the advice. That helps a lot. All right, thank you. Thanks for calling. Yeah.
+
+[24:19] Don't be a stranger. All right, bye-bye. Um all right, hey Jack, you want to go to our first commercial break? Yes, sir. Coming right back with cooking issues.
+
+[24:34] This is up from the south from the Buddha spending. The International Culinary Center is a proud sponsor of the Heritage Radio Network.org. The ICC with locations in New York and California provide cutting edge education to future chefs, restaurateurs, and wine professionals. We're proud to claim Dan Barber, Bobby Clay, and David Chang among our honored alumni. This is Dorothy Cann Hamilton from Chef Story.
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+[25:38] Check out our ICC website at international culinarycenter.com. Hey Jack, what's the music that you put there with Dorothy? Oh yeah, some dreamy music. Yeah, there's some dreamy music. It's like uh ad music.
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+[25:54] Hey, what's up? No Wiley? No Wiley? No, no love for Wiley. I don't know.
+
+[25:58] Maybe that's on the second commercial. The deans, too. All those deans. Yeah, yeah, we got some good deans over at the end. They've been uh they've been promoting you a lot, actually.
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+[26:13] Nice. I appreciate it. Promotion's good, right, Sas? I don't care. I don't care.
+
+[26:19] Don't talk to me. I'm emailing people. All right. I had somebody real quick, I had a cooking issues listener ask if uh if Nastasia is is actually this is real. They're like, is she actually like rolling her eyes in the studio sometimes?
+
+[26:31] Because it sounds like it. Yeah, it sounds like it's a little bit more than a little bit. How do you hear that? You know? It's it's the pause, and then I think the sardonic reply.
+
+[26:39] I think that's what it is. I I confirm that it does indeed happen. Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah. Right now, Nastash is buying some shoes on Zappos.
+
+[26:47] Okay, I'm paying paying lots of bills. What kind of bills? Debt. Awesome. Okay.
+
+[26:55] She didn't have the debt at 10 a.m. this morning. The debt came in at noon. Just so you know. Just so you know.
+
+[27:00] Debt wasn't there at 10. That's only there at noon. Okay. Uh this question in from uh Jean, I assume it's Jean and not Jean. Uh Jean Doe, which is an awesome name, dough, right?
+
+[27:12] Doe? Like dough, not like dough like doure me, like dough likes dough nut. Which is delicious. And not well, not like do not d you shouldn't spell dough not do and u t. That's uh that's horrible.
+
+[27:22] It's an abomination. It's dough like like dough that you work with. Anyway, uh one uh posted this to uh to me and to ideas and food. Wanna poach using ocean water. Any thoughts on uh dilution or other considerations?
+
+[27:34] I wouldn't dilute it, right? It's just uh I would filter the heck out of it. You know what I mean? And make sure that you don't get it from like the swampy tidal pool thing, which is what I already responded to this on the on the Twitter, but um just saying I don't think you need to dilute it, but be aware that uh seawater is a lot more bitter than salt water because there are many other salts in seawater other than uh other than you know, sodium chloride, table salt. And to kind of get an idea of what that does for flavor, you can pick up uh nigari, which is uh you know the Japanese uh salt that they use to set tofu.
+
+[28:08] You can also set tofu, by the way, in seawater. It's possible to set tofu in seawater, that's an old school way of doing it. Uh, but if you taste nigari, which are all the salts left over after most of the sodium chloride is removed, that bitterness is what you get out of seawater. So just be aware that that flavor is there. But people have been using microfiltered seawater for you know, you know, a long, long time.
+
+[28:28] It was especially popular ingredient in kind of high-tech Spanish cooking, um, and probably still is for all I know. Okay. Uh we got anonymous in. Please ask Dave Arnold if venison from a deer addled with Lyme disease is still edible. Yuck.
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+[28:44] From Anonymous. What are your thoughts, Sasha? Before I before I tell you the answer, what do you think? Uh, you know the answers probably it's fine. Just because you know me and my answer to everything is fine?
+
+[28:54] Yeah? Yeah. Yeah. All right. Well, you happen to be right.
+
+[28:57] I mean, I don't think the reasoning is good on your part, but the you happen to be correct. I went on the uh CDC, which is the Center for Disease Controls website, and uh kind of looked up to see what what the theory is. And uh Lyme disease is uh a disease that actually you know it can be easy to treat if you catch it early. If you don't catch it early, it can be really horrible and can cause central nervous system problems that can be persistent um almost indefinitely. It can it can be really bad.
+
+[29:23] Uh and they you know it's named after the town in Connecticut nearby here, uh Lyme, where I guess it was first uh noticed, and you get it from deer ticks, most you know, most from deer ticks. Uh and it has a life cycle that goes from deer tick to rodent to deer, but you know, around in this big circle, and you get it, the tick bites you, the spirochete is injected uh into you, and then you get the Lyme disease. Sometimes you get a bullseye rash, sometimes you don't, and you get muscular, uh, you know, m muscular pains and headaches, blur, all the nasty stuff, and you treat it with uh with antibiotics, but you gotta catch it early. Okay. There's no evidence, this is from the CDC directly.
+
+[29:59] There's no evidence that Lyme disease is transmitted from person to person, so you can't get it from uh infected from touching, kissing, or having sex with a person who has Lyme disease. So what this means is that bodily fluid contact is not what's going to cause uh the Lyme disease. And similarly, uh although uh Lyme disease during pregnancy can cause problems, um a lot of problems, such as infec infection of the placenta and whatnot, uh if the baby makes it baby baby's okay. And uh and although there have been no uh cases of Lyme disease linked to blood transfusion, they still don't recommend that you give blood if you know you you have Lyme disease. So, what this means, uh what all this means is that you're not gonna get it from eating uh venison or squirrel meat.
+
+[30:41] And they say, for instance, that you're not gonna get Lyme disease from eating venison or squirrel meat, but in keeping with general food safety principles, meat should always be cooked thoroughly. And here's the here's the key. The key is uh note hunting and dressing deer or squirrels may bring you into close contact with infected ticks. So if you are hunting uh deer that are been addled with Lyme disease, then you are in uh much greater contact with the with the you know the environment where you're gonna get a tick. So you do deer uh do tick checks, uh be careful, put um you know repellents on you to keep ticks from jumping on you, you know, like soak your clothes and whatever that is, pyrethrine or whatever it is that stops the ticks from getting there.
+
+[31:21] But that's the main thing. Now, the interesting thing with deer disease that no one knows what the what the final thing is gonna be on isn't Lyme disease, it's chronic wasting disease, which you get from elk and I guess other deer, but not here on the East Coast, you get it in uh kind of the north middle of uh of the country. And this is a uh a spongiform and cephalopathy, uh, you know, a TSC, a transf a transmissible uh spongiform and cephalopathy, uh similar to Jakobs Kreutschveld or Mad Cow, and uh causing um neurological disease in elk and deer, not thought to be transmissible to humans. However, wise word on the street is that you never know when uh the TSE, which is a pre it's a they're prion related uh so like this weird little protein, prion related diseases, when they're going to be able to change a little bit and make the jump from one animal, uh for instance cows, mad cow disease, to human beings. So we don't know.
+
+[32:16] Like uh we don't know whether there's ever going to be a sheep-based uh scrapie that can come over to uh to us. We don't know if there's going to be a chronic wasting disease that can jump and come to us. And the fun part about uh you know transmissible uh transmissible uh spongiform and cephalopathies is they have something like 10, 15 year incubation period. So the thing that kills you you could have eaten 10, 15 years ago. Awesome, right?
+
+[32:39] Is that super happy times? Super happy times. And so because of that, I make a general rule of not eating um not eating uh brain matter or um uh nerve tissue uh unless like someone really offers it to me and I'm like and I feel like I'm gonna be extremely rude not eating it because being uh impolite is is uh much uh worse than dying in 15 years. Not really, but it's kind of what happens. So uh I tend to stay away from that stuff, and I know a lot of other people that do too, just because we don't know how that stuff's gonna suss out yet.
+
+[33:10] Um okay. Uh hello, Dave, Nastasha, Jack, and Joe. Finally, every so we're getting called out in the right in the right stuff. Uh Dave, you mentioned in several shows, including the last one, that you like making chicken stock at home in the pressure cooker. You've alluded to several changes to regular recipes that are required to get a good result, such as doubling or tripping, tripling the amount of onion, using less water, etc.
+
+[33:33] Could you spell out specifically a typical recipe that you will use that you would use? Also, I make a cocktail that uses a Leucuma puree. However, it's very difficult to find here in the Bay Area, and I cannot always get it. Do you know of any reasonable substitutes I could try? I've bought Leukuma powder, but I haven't had much luck.
+
+[33:50] It doesn't taste the same and imparts a gritty texture to the drink. Thanks, love the show, Michael in Oakland, California. Okay, I'm gonna handle this in reverse. I don't yet have a good substitute for uh Leucima uh puree. Uh I haven't used it really uh that much.
+
+[34:07] I've had it kind of preserved, but I've never had um the fresh stuff. I've had similar related fruits from South America and Colombia, but I'm gonna have to do more research on it. In fact, I'm going to Colombia in at the end of August, and I'm in Leucama's Peruvian. And it's like one of these Peruvian superfruit jobbies that they're doing a good job uh marketing. Uh so when I go, I'm specifically gonna do some research.
+
+[34:32] I'm gonna try to get the fresh stuff that's closely related as I can to it, even though it's not I won't be in Peru, I'll be in Colombia, and then the other substitutes, and then once I have more experience using the real deal fresh stuff, then I will be able to make a good uh substitution for it. Powders, yeah, they're you know, they're they're you know, yeah, uh the typically things like that might uh impart a gritty texture to a to a drink. Uh and the real question is are you adding the Leucuma for what purpose? For creaminess, for taste, for what? Uh so I'm gonna do more research, and then uh if you want to send an email back like at the beginning of next month, right when I get back from Colombia, I'll have an answer for you, and also please email why, you know, what it is you want, what it is you want to mimic about the Leukuma, everything or just the flavor or just the texture, right?
+
+[35:14] And then we can kind of uh work from there. Okay? Now, back to the stock. Um when I make so it's it I don't actually have a specific recipe. I feel like I'm like I'm really doing you wrong, Michael, but I don't have like a specific recipe uh that I use.
+
+[35:35] I just know that uh I kind of I always do uh stocks really by eye, which is dumb. But um when I do it at home, I'll typically uh I'll typically won't even roast off my bones. I'll I'll brown the bones in uh in a pan. So let's do chicken. Like I'll take chicken, uh, a lot of backs and you know the ac the excess meat from that.
+
+[35:56] Usually when I fry chickens, I have a lot of bones and backs and stuff left over. I have all the bones, in fact, because I make boneless fried chicken. I'll chop them up uh fairly fine and then I'll um I'll cook them actually in the pressure cooker in batches just so I don't have to go roast. When I'm cooking uh, you know, in a professional kitchen, I'll roast. Uh and I'll you know, I'll also like uh roast off uh the vegetables as well, uh, and then put them in.
+
+[36:21] I do typically add probably twice as much onion when I'm doing pressure cooker as when I'm doing a traditional stock. You don't need to, just be aware that the onion flavor will be different and will be a little bit muted. You can add a little bit of fresh onion afterwards and do like a 10-15 minute simmer of freshly sweated, not fresh, fresh onions, but freshly sweated onions to to bolster bolster that back up. Don't alter your celery uh or your carrot uh amount or it'll come out kind of too carrot and too celery. Um I jam the bones down in as hard as I can, and then I add water basically just to cover the bones and no more.
+
+[36:55] And I think you know, one of the issues, it'll everything depends on what you're gonna use it for. If you you know, uh uh from years of having the stock that they make at the at the French Culinary Institute, now the ICC, in my opinion, all of that stock was uh it's too too watery. So, like normal professional procedure is to add excess water and then um you know boil it for you know, simmer it for a very, very long time. Uh and uh in the end, you always end up having to reduce that stock before you use it because uh the flavor profile is just not high enough. Now, from an economic standpoint, it does make sense to use excess, well, I don't know, accepting the cost of gas to boil the stuff down.
+
+[37:35] It makes some economic sense to um use excess water because it means that the flavor, the liquids that are left in the stuff after you drain it, have less of the um less of the flavor and protein in them than they would if you diluted it, and then you can boil it back down. My feeling, which kind of goes back to reading, you know, Peterson's book so many times, is that the super long boiling times and reduction, constant reduction, while intensifying flavors can tend to dull the flavor. So I prefer to make a much more flavorful initial stock, even though I might lose some of that flavor in uh in the fact that there still is liquid clinging to the bones and whatnot when they come out. So uh when I'm doing it at home, I try to go for the most flavorful one because cost isn't necessarily an issue. I'm not serving a lot of people.
+
+[38:20] I'm just trying to effectively use a whole bunch of chicken backs that I have in carcasses. So I'll actually do a uh uh a triple stock. I'll do I'll do veg uh and then I'll roast off a whole bunch of bones and I'll put pack them in, fill just over the top with water, hit it once, and then uh drain that one and put it with a fresh uh thing of bones and do it again. I don't do uh remillage at home just because I don't do remillage at home, but uh, you know, if you want to do a Remy stock with it, you all you also could. Um anyway, sorry I don't have a specific obviously I don't salt the stuff because I don't know what I'm gonna use it for later.
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+[38:55] Uh if you're making a broth or soup, you know, do whatever you do whatever you want. Uh I do typically add uh the peppercorns beforehand uh and bay just because I'm used to it, even though Jeffrey Steingarden tells me that I'm an idiot for doing so because all that's happening there is imparting bitterness from the pepper and not the aroma, which uh is very fleeting and goes away. Uh but I like that bitterness, so I'm gonna do it anyway, even though Jeffrey tells me I shouldn't. What do you think? I haven't spoken to Jeffrey in a long time, have we?
+
+[39:20] Yeah, I know. Say hello to my man Jeffrey. So sorry I could not be more accurate. Uh I looked up Miss Vicky's uh pressure cooker stock. She actually tends to be more Miss Vicky writes pressure cooker things.
+
+[39:30] Uh actually, you know, I snuck around, you know, the Amazon, I did the look inside on Amazon because I don't actually own her book, and it didn't give me the one key page in American Amazon. So I went to Amazon UK and they gave me that one page. So, like, you know, if at first you don't succeed on the Amazon look inside, try a different country, try a different country again. Thank God I didn't have to go to like Amazon.checoslovakia or whatever, because I I wouldn't be able to read the I'd have to go through translation, which is an irritation. Uh anyway, um but yeah, she cooks her pressure cooker stock for like half an hour on chicken, which I think is reasonable, but not on beef.
+
+[40:04] Um the you know, uh whereas Heston, I think Blumenthal cooks for like an hour. When we were running our tests at the French culinary, I think we cooked an hour or longer for our pressure cooker stocks. Really, you're gonna get, especially if you chop up the the bones pretty fine, you're gonna get the vast majority of extraction in a half an hour at 15 PSI. And so I think that's probably good enough. Half hour, forty-five minutes.
+
+[40:26] Then let it come down naturally. The coming down naturally is the key on the recipe there, so that you're not boiling all the stuff out of the uh of the bones and causing all sorts of uh emulsification problems, which we're gonna deal with in a second. Because the next question, should we take a break real quick? We don't have much time. Uh yeah, there's like five minutes, so I mean maybe let's just power through it.
+
+[40:45] Power through? I think that's probably a good idea. Power, okay, power it is. Power. Uh okay.
+
+[40:50] So uh which leads to our next question. Uh yo, what up with you guys? Can't get enough of y'all anyway. Thank you very much, by the way, for not being able to get enough of us. I can certainly get enough of us, right, Sas?
+
+[40:58] Stas has enough of me uh all the time. Oh, wait, we have another Twitter. Okay. Uh Dave, I was wondering when your book is supposed to be put on the market. Well, uh, I have to finish writing it first.
+
+[41:09] Uh the fact that I have not written it is uh putting me in deep hot water with uh my uh publisher. But uh, you know, be you know sure that uh it's like like my top priority now is finishing this book. And but after I write it, it's still gonna be about a year before it comes under the market. So unfortunately, no time too soon. Um second question, more food related.
+
+[41:31] Been having a little trouble with stocks lately. I always blanch or roast my bones and uh skim skim skim, pass through a chinois and and cloth, like you know, a cheesecloth. Uh after reducing by half or more and chilling, I still notice there being too much suspended particulate, what's going on? Also, this refers to beef and chicken stock, not pork. Thank you very much, uh Philippe.
+
+[41:50] Okay. Uh look, there's an interesting article b uh on clarity and whatnot, uh, that I don't have time necessarily to go through in detail, but you can get the abstract for it online and take a look at it. And it's called The Effects of Cooking Temperatures on the Physiochemical Properties and Consumer Acceptance of Chicken Stock by Mark Krasnow, which came out in uh 200 and uh eleven. And they b they basically do cold start simmered at 85 Celsius for a long time. It's cold water start, a hot water start at 85, cold water start cooked at 99 Celsius, and uh hot water start cooked at um 99 uh Celsius, and they run through uh you know questions of whether which is clear, which is cloudy, which has higher protein, which has higher uh taste acceptance.
+
+[42:38] And I will just read um maybe their final results. Overall, the results of the study show that there is a clear physiochemical difference between stocks cooked at 85 Celsius, i.e. a simmer, and 99, which is right at the boil. The starting temperature of the water, however, did not greatly affect these properties. The assertion, however, that protein extraction is greater in cold started stocks was partially supported by the results of this study.
+
+[43:00] For the stocks cooked at 99 uh C, uh the one that was hot started had more dissolved protein than the one that was at 85. The 85 had more dissolved protein than the hot started at 85. Okay, so uh so so there you go. But you can go go read uh their paper on it because it's too complicated to suss out, you know, uh to suss out instantly. Um they did mention by the way that uh blanching beforehand was something they didn't treat as part of their study, but it's it's in there in the discussion, so you should definitely uh read about it.
+
+[43:32] But I'll give you my my my points, my points on it. Okay. Um so what you did is you said you uh blanch orose your bones first and then uh skim skim skim. Now the skimming is supposed to get the scum off the top that otherwise gets emulsified into the sauce. By the way, you do this initial thing where you skim off the initial stuff and then you want to boil the hell out of it for certain Chinese stocks because uh they actually want to emulsify the fat.
+
+[43:56] So they're using protein to emulsify the fat into your into your uh stock. And that's basic that's the idea for call like cream stocks or milk stocks. I happen not to like them too much, but I haven't had that much experience with them. But I'm just maybe just because I'm not used to them. I mean, I'm sure they're great in there when they're used properly, but I haven't had enough experience with it.
+
+[44:14] So uh so you want to do the opposite of that for a normal stock, which is to you want to bring it up to the boil uh and then skim the stuff that floats off to the top because that's gonna contain uh proteins that are gonna, if they get churned in, will help to emulsify the fat into your stock, which is gonna make it cloudy. Alright. So you so one thing I want to make sure you're not doing is that you're not um you're not um uh they're you're not boiling it too hard, right? The second thing is you say you pass it through a chinois and cloth, and then after reducing by half or more and chilling, there's too much suspended particulate. Here's what you need to do.
+
+[44:49] You need to uh pass it through a uh chinois and a cloth carefully, like ladle it. Don't upset it or stir it around too much, like pour it gently and whatnot. Then chill it first before you reduce it. If you reduce before you chill it, you're not gonna get all of the uh fat and stuff off the top. You're supposed to chill it.
+
+[45:08] There'll be a lay it'll separate into layers, you separate it and then scoop out the gelee, and then reduce the gelee. So maybe maybe uh that's the problem you're having. So the one problem you might be having boiling a little bit too hard, it sounds like you're skimming it enough, so that's probably not the issue. Um and the other thing is make sure you chill it thoroughly before you uh do any reduction. Um and if those aren't the problems, uh there could be other things like the type of uh I mean that maybe you're including bits of the chicken like uh certain gibblets can apparently cause cause cloudy stocks or whatnot.
+
+[45:43] But call you know, email us back and tell us what the issues are. Okay. Uh we're about to have to go but I just want to uh go one we have one last uh what is this Twitter or email coming in. Hey Dave uh Nastasha and Jack. First off just want to say the Changwa demo at SF Chefs last week was a great time.
+
+[45:58] I didn't make it to the cocktail demonstration at the tent, but I'm sure it was awesome. Thank you. I'm a big fan of iced coffee, usually cold brewed and sparkling water, but when I combine the two it isn't a good result. Any tips on how to make a sparkling iced coffee? I'm particularly looking at ways to improve the mouthfeel.
+
+[46:13] Also is there a way to make a cocktail version thanks Tim. Okay, very good question Tim. We'll take this as our last question today. There are certain uh coffee bars, for instance Blue Bottle in San Francisco, that serve you uh carbonated water with your uh with your espresso shots. And it's kind of interesting.
+
+[46:30] It's a different uh mouthfeel also Columba here in the U in uh New York you can get some carbonated water with your uh with your espresso shop but Nastasha you wouldn't like the carbonated water I think they serve San Benedetto which is not your favorite because you call it uh agua di boca. 'Cause it doesn't have a high enough carbonation level for you. Because Nastasha like me likes a very bubbly bubble, right? You don't like like a you don't like like a like a petillon, like a minor bubble. You like a major bubble.
+
+[46:53] Yeah, yeah, true, true. Uh and in that uh I am uh wholeheartedly agree. So this is one situation where I'm not gonna rant against Nastasha's food choices because we just one savor it. Okay. Um now the problem is is that i you get some very unusual results when you add um the bubbliness which has that sharp biting and people perceive as acidic, although I don't perceive it that way.
+
+[47:18] Uh I mean, you know the the science says that I do, but I don't feel about it that way. When that's mixed with coffee can be kind of strange. If you want to taste the only commercially carbonated coffee thing that I know of, there's a soda called Manhattan Special uh coffee soda, which I don't know whether it's only regional or not. Uh have you had that, Jack? I don't think it's in there right now.
+
+[47:39] No. Or Joe, have you had that? No. I have actually. Do you what do you think about it?
+
+[47:43] I think it's pretty awesome. Yeah? It's a local specialty though. Right, exactly. It's hard.
+
+[47:47] It's actually pretty hard to find, too. Yeah, and it well, it's new, it's not made in Manhattan. It's made on Manhattan Avenue in Brooklyn. Right. Yeah.
+
+[47:53] Manhattan Avenue special. Yeah, the factory is pretty close to here, actually, right? Yeah, yeah. But so what you should do is try to get a hold of that and then taste that to see kind of what the commercial uh version of it um is. But yeah, it is it is a unique, it is a unique uh kind of a flavor.
+
+[48:09] My only problem with Manhattan Special is that it's kind of too sweet. You know, what do you think, Joe? Too sweet? Or do you like it that way? Oh, I'm into it.
+
+[48:17] You're into it? So go get a hold a hold of that. One issue when you're making a cocktail and you want to carbonate it, uh or any sort of carbonated coffee beverage is uh coffee, especially espresso, which is what I deal with, um, has some uh foaming properties to it. And so uh it can foam like a like a weasel when you want to carbonate it. So when you uncap a carbonated uh coffee drink, especially espresso, which has a lot of suspended solids in it, you're gonna you're gonna get some serious foaming problem.
+
+[48:44] If you are a milk and coffee person and you want to carbonate it, the milk can have problems because you can get curdling reactions with certain milk-based things, especially as the alcohol level goes up. But uh you're even more gonna have an extreme, extreme foaming uh problem. And so uh you're gonna have to make a very small amount of it and then let it uh foam off in order in order to get it to uh to work properly. I'm gonna have to think more. I also is if anyone has a good carbonated coffee thing, uh please uh write in.
+
+[49:10] I'm interested because I haven't done enough experimenting with carbonation uh and coffee, but I definitely have experimented with it. When I make coffee drinks and I want them super foamy and creamy and cocktails, I don't use CO2, I use nitrous oxide, which makes a nice creamy beverage. And you can I've made many coffee cocktails with nitrous oxide, although they do foam, and that gives you uh the super creaminess that you get out of a fresh cup of coffee, but in a cold situation. So I would try nitrous instead of CO2 unless you really want the prickly texture of CO2, in which case um experiment away. Cooking issues.org.
+
+[50:00] You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritageradio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today.
+
+[50:24] Thanks for listening. Oh, you dare to do that.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by White Oak Pastures, a five-generation Georgia-based beef and poultry farm determined to conduct business in an honorable manner. For more information, visit WhiteoakPastures.com. Broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn, you're listening to Heritage Radio Network.org. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from Roberta's Pizzeria on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from 12 to 1245.
+
+[0:34] Joined in the studio with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. And of course, Jack and Joe in the engineering booth. How are you guys doing? Doing alright? Yeah, microphones aren't working over there, but they're doing good.
+
+[0:44] How are you doing, Stas? Yeah, Nastasha is trying to find someone who's willing to move uh the crap out of our uh studio area in Brooklyn in the back of Milk Bar Commissary. To our new space on 54 Eldridge Street, which until Eater actually showed up, they did not believe that we were not trying to open another bar there. Yeah. And when they showed up, we're like, here's one desk, here's another desk.
+
+[1:08] Look, a third desk. And they're like, oh, so it's not gonna be it. We're like, no. No. No.
+
+[1:14] It's our it's you know, it's Booker and Dax Equipment Company. It's our test our test place. But anyway, turns out that movers here in New York, unlike when you move it yourself, which is what Nastasha and I had to do last time, uh, make you put everything in a box. It's it's equipment. How the hell do you put a big piece of equipment in a box?
+
+[1:31] Am I supposed to just go get giant like washing machine boxes to put everything in? They said or shrink wrap it. So we use that like or shrink wrap it? Yeah. What is shrink wrapping doing?
+
+[1:39] I think you cover it in plastic and how's that helpful other than I get to destroy the earth a little more. They don't want to scratch the trucks with the equipment, the insides of the trucks. They don't want to scratch the inside of a moving truck. Right. They yeah.
+
+[1:51] With stuff that they're moving. Mm-hmm. This is it. This is happening in the real life? Mm-hmm.
+
+[1:56] This is what's really happening. Yes. Okay then. Hey, our mic works and we're doing well. Yeah?
+
+[2:02] Nice. Yeah. Good. Strong. Good.
+
+[1:59] I was a little worried about you. I was pretty sure that there was still air in the booth though, and that you were breathing. Hey, do you know about our fundraising party? Can I shamelessly plug that right now? Yeah, you are.
+
+[2:14] You must say uh plug away. Yeah, you're you're uh you're doing drinks. I am. Yeah. El Buho Mescal.
+
+[2:21] And uh we've got Absolute. We've got a whole bunch of stuff. September 9th at Roberta's from 5 to 8 p.m. It's our first fundraiser. How much are tickets?
+
+[2:31] 150. And and uh where do they purchase said tickets? That is Heritage Radio Network.eventbrite.com. Yeah. Nice.
+
+[2:39] And we'll take some of our techniques and put your money where your mouth is with our beverage, right? We've got Grammarcy Tavern and El Posto. I think Brooks is doing desserts and um You wrangled Brooks into doing it? We wrangled Bro, yeah, Brooks will be there. Nice.
+
+[2:52] Yep. Back 40 West, China Pacifico, uh Inside Park, St. Bart's, uh inside Inside Park at St. Bart's. Bunch of other chefs.
+
+[3:00] It'll be really cool. Nice, nice. And it's here at at the at the Robert's Pizzeria? Yep. In the backyard.
+
+[3:05] Yeah, so if you've never made the trek out to Brooklyn, now's your chance. Now's your chance to cross that river. You can meet us. And maybe Indie Jesus may be working in the event. I'm just putting that out there.
+
+[3:15] I don't know. Oh, we now you have to make it happen, Jack. I might have to make that happen. Yeah, you know, I'll see what strings I can pull. It's not an easy get.
+
+[3:23] Yeah, Nastasha, you're you're gonna come to the gig, right? Yes. Yeah, so you can come see Nastasha and like I think everyone should wear their best hipster outfit to come and visit Nastasha at the And you can get pictures with me and Indy Jesus. If Indy Jesus actually shows up. Right.
+
+[3:38] Well, he's works on Sundays. That's what we it's he's anti anti-Jesus. He's moving on a Sunday, but. No, look, you gotta get your your your your Bible straight. First of all.
+
+[3:43] That's supposed to work, but like one of the things that if you read the if you read the um kind of uh you know the apocryphal gospels, like one of the things Jesus used to get in trouble for all the time was healing people on the Sabbath. Well, no, that those gospels never made it into into Jersey speak. But uh yeah, so he used to do things like you know, cure people on the Sabbath, and that's one of the things he got in trouble for. You know, curing people at work. Work.
+
+[4:12] You think that stuff just happens curing people? Work. Anyway, okay. Um catch some stuff from before that I missed from a couple weeks ago. Barry Munkasey wrote in, because I don't think I got this.
+
+[4:23] Uh question on Twitter. Clearly, I am overcooking or people are overcooking shrimp in a shrimp boil. I didn't talk about this, did I Sas? I don't think so. Uh shrimp, sausage, corn, onion, potato, garlic, and Zataran spice.
+
+[4:34] Uh perfect sous vide timing recipe. Did I talk about this? I don't remember. I don't know. I don't remember whether I talked about it or not, but I think you might have.
+
+[4:40] Did I? Really? I feel like it might have. Well, don't cook shrimp sous-vide. Just cook all the parts separately, perfectly, and then recombine them at the end.
+
+[4:47] Yeah, yeah, you're right. I did. I talked about shrimp shelves. Delicious, delicious shrimp shells. That's right.
+
+[4:52] Yeah, okay. Alright. Alright, Barry, I got you covered. But I know this I did not mention. Pavlov at Pav1 Love or Pav Oneov uh on the Twitter sent in a picture to us of uh how he cooked 25,000 lobsters in a five-day period at a festival in Maine, using something that looked like a steam c giant kind of steam cleaner, huge pieces of equipment.
+
+[5:16] And his exact quote is, I felt bad until I ate them. Hopefully he did not eat all 25,000. The most I've ever eaten in one day is 10. Uh and uh that was the same day I found out I was allergic to cherries. So they thought it was lobsters for a long time that I was allergic to until cherry season came around the next year and sent me to the hospital again.
+
+[5:34] Crazy, right? Nutty. Anyways, uh, so I had something else to say about that. Oh, yeah, when I was a kid, check this out. For any of you that um, I don't know, clean aircraft equipment for a living.
+
+[5:44] There used to be in Oshkosh, every year in Oshkosh, Wisconsin, there's what's called a fly-in, where all the kind of experimental aircraft lunatics from all over everywhere, and also the old war bird uh nutties and everything show up and they fly in, and Oshkosh Airport is for that couple of days the busiest airport in the world. And you go there, and uh my dad used to fly seaplanes uh a lot. So we used to go to the seaplane party, which was a little off the way because he had to have a lake, and those guys had a giant like bro beer brats in 55 gallon drums and corn that they would cook in the steam cleaners that they would use to steam clean parts, like giant steam cleaned corn. That's what I used to eat as a kid. Maybe that's part of what influenced me to get to use dumb equipment to uh cook with.
+
+[6:26] Maybe. What do you think? Yeah, possible, right? Okay. Now, on to current questions.
+
+[6:32] Uh hi, Dave, Nastasha, and Jack. Shout out to Indie Jesus. And I'm gonna have to add the shout out to Joe. Remember, guys, give the shout-out to Joe. He he is a singer in a he's the front man of some sort of like hardcore punk band, true or false.
+
+[6:46] True. I've w why have we not heard any of the music on the on the radio program? Um maybe one of these days. So if you don't give him a shout-out, he is going he he is going to come find you. Pretty much, right?
+
+[6:59] I'm I'm extr I'm extremely scary person as well. Yeah, yeah. I mean, you probably don't know him unless you're here in the studio with us. I mean, you might know him separately, but in other words, yeah, odds are you don't, and he's a he's a scary man. He'll come find you.
+
+[7:11] I'm just telling you. Just telling you you should give him a shout-out. That's all. Okay. So Eddie Shepard writes in, I have a quick question, and also below a free uh well, free from me, not for you.
+
+[7:19] Anyway, kidding. Uh a link to the copy of my ebook. Um okay, as a longtime listener and having uh asked the odd question on the show before, I was hoping it was okay to ask a question slightly away from the tech side of things and more on aesthetics and subjectivity. Uh, I wonder to what extent uh you thought about the presentation of food affected the experience of eating it, whether it is something you see as critical to a dish, and if there are any examples or anecdotes you have relating to food either looking horrible and tasting amazing, or vice versa, beautifully presented but let down in flavor. I personally think that the setting you're in and the aesthetics of a dish can potentially have a big psychological influence on your enjoyment of the food, but also the flavors first and foremost.
+
+[7:55] If I can make a delicious dish look nice, then great, I will. But if altering it look uh compromises flavor, I wouldn't. I wondered what your thoughts might be, and also if there's anything you might favor stylistically in food uh presentation. Okay. Uh that's a great question.
+
+[8:10] Uh I think there is a very famous uh Spanish chef, uh very famous m mercurial Spanish chef, actually, that uh Nils and I were doing I think it was Nils and I. Might have been even before Nils was at No, I think Nils was there. Anyway, it's this huge event uh we had at the French Culinary Institute years and years ago, and uh all the big wigs were coming, like Ferran and and uh one Roca and all these guys. This is n none of those guys. Another very famous mercurial Spanish chef.
+
+[8:38] And uh not that Juan Roca is actually not, he's like a totally mellow guy. He didn't yell at anyone the entire time. The man the man's a complete uh he's he's very um he's a he's a gentleman, Juan Roca. Uh someday I'll get to go to his restaurant. Um anywho.
+
+[8:51] And Jordy, too, the brother, pastry chef. Very nice people. Anyway, um the So this guy uh is well known for kind of like hyper presentation with you know like lots of tweezers and whatnot. Um, you know, tiny, like you know, early on uh adopter of the the like the micro mini micro micro micro green tininess, right? And um he literally said during his demonstration, and it's stuck in my head forever, that uh it is not only important for the food to look good, it must taste good also.
+
+[9:25] And this stuck in my brain, and I've not been able to pry it free because it's exactly backwards. It's exactly backwards. It is important, like it's not only important that the food tastes good, it's important that it looks good too. That is a true statement, right? But um I kind of the my problem with food that's for presentation only is I think it leads to especially we're in an era right now where um you know a lot of food work is done on the internet, it's done in books, it's done on television programs, and it's done in demonstrations.
+
+[10:03] And so uh there's a lot of work that's done that um where you can tell that it was done for the look and not necessarily for the for the um for the taste. Like I call it, you know, cooking for demonstration. It's like you specifically make it so that it looks good in photos or in books or in uh in demos. And I mean I'm not saying you should shy away from the presence, but that's why like in a demo, I l I think it's important to give tastes out so that people actually know that you know what you're focused on is cooking and the flavor. Now, I think that you know, look, if you're cooking at home, it's it's one thing, it it has to look appetizing.
+
+[10:43] I don't really do a lot of plated work at home, except for I I used to on special occasions, but I don't really do it at home. At home, it's it's more about you know something that looks appetizing, but you know, in in a home style. But when you're doing a demo or a dish or a cocktail, I think it's a very important to have to have it look enticing and appetizing, or in a cocktail scenario, that have the pres the presentation of making it be something that um wets the person's appetite for what you're making uh and that looks good or looks compelling. And um there are dishes that obviously the your enjoyment of them is incredibly augmented by how they look. Things can be enchanting, captivating, uh, just in their look, and then um that makes it makes an already good tasting thing taste better.
+
+[11:28] Uh but you know nothing is worse than something that they've obviously spent a billion years making it look great and there's no flavor to it, or or the flavors uh clash and they don't work. I mean you've had that happen, Stas, right? Yes. Do you enjoy that? No.
+
+[11:42] She's not paying any attention. Okay. I got this guy to move our stuff, I think. Oh, well, okay. All right, so Nastasha's not paying attention to what I'm saying during the radio show, but did in fact find a place a guy that's gonna move our stuff, so kudos there.
+
+[11:53] Uh now there's another side to it, which i is also true, and you allude to in in in your question, and that is that I have things that we have made that are freaking delicious, like delicious, great, and yet I won't ever serve them. Why? Because they're hideously ugly. You know, like a drink that looks like a murky brown mass and not like brown in a good sort of whiskey way, like just nasty. And so, yes, there are there are situations where you know looks trump how good something tastes just because I s I won't be able to get it past someone's lips.
+
+[12:28] Same way, like I can make you a piece of chicken that looks like it's still bloody, cooked through all the way, no one will eat it. Why? Because it's visually repellent to them. And so I think both uh both are important, but I think you know, you're gonna steer yourself right if you focus on flavor first, and then uh after that, like, you know, like how can this presentation be um best achieved, right? I mean that that's my feeling.
+
+[12:53] Now, the second thing we have in from Eddie is Eddie just has a new book available, I believe, exclusively on the iPad through your uh through your iTunes, and it's called uh Modernist, uh what's it called? Modernist Vegetarian, right? Modernist vegetarian. Let me look at the exact title of the book because I downloaded it. Um Modernist Vegetarian, right, by Eddie Shepherd.
+
+[13:11] And uh, so it's it's yeah, I read it. I read yeah, I didn't read it fully because I only got it this morning, but I I looked through all the recipes, and uh a lot a lot of uh a lot of interesting recipes, some that you can use without a lot of heavy-duty equipment, some that require a lot of heavy duty equipment. Um, but you know, very well, very well clean photographed, a lot of interesting stuff. And I think you know, one of the first times I've seen someone exclusively try to do a modern a modern take on uh strictly vegetarian. So good.
+
+[13:40] Kudos. Everyone, you know, should go check it out. You can get a free sample on the iTunes, uh sent to your iPad, and then decide whether you want to pay the paltry meager price of I think it's like $6.99. So it's not a giant, it's not a giant investment. Um thing he uses quite a bit, actually, that I haven't used, I'm ashamed to say it, we haven't experimented with it, is uh the per Purecoat B790, which is um, you know, it's something from National Starch and uh can be used to make like films and leathers and glasses and stuff.
+
+[14:08] And we haven't really played with that, I don't think too much, uh, Styles. Maybe I should you know I hate it when someone brings something uh out like this, and then I'm like, man, I haven't I shouldn't have used that more. Man, there it is. So we'll we'll try to get some practicing with the pure code B790. And uh we appreciate that uh you gave me a uh a shout out on uh a couple of techniques in the book.
+
+[14:27] Uh one thing is on your methyl cellulose, I'd like to know are you using F50? It looks like you're using F50. Remember to always call out the brands of the methyl cell that you are using. All right. Uh this is a shout out to uh Michael in Oakland.
+
+[14:41] I still have your Leucuma Pure problem on my mind, but I'm gonna wait to answer until I get back from the Columbia because I'm gonna mess with uh Lukey Lucima Variants while I'm down there and figure out really good solutions for you. And with that, let's go to our first commercial break. Call your questions to 7184972128. That's 7184972128. So I could love you twice as much as I do.
+
+[15:04] I'd have 11 arms to embrace you. For us to idolize you each time. You're listening to I Wish I Were Twins by Plexophonic. What couldn't full lips do? When four is here, you say that I'm yours.
+
+[15:21] I wish that I were twins. You great big baby kins. So I could love you. Wide Oak Pastures is a hundred and forty-six-year-old multi-generational family farm that works in cooperation with nature to produce artisan beats that is safe, healthy, nutritious, and good to eat. Well, I feel we ensure that our production practices are economically practical, ecologically sustainable, and that the animals are always humanely treated.
+
+[15:52] We never falter in our determination to conduct our business in an honorable manner. For more information, visit Wideopastures.com. I wish that I would twins. You get big baby kins. So I could love you twice as much as I do.
+
+[16:11] I'd have four loving arms to embrace you. For eyes to idolize you each time I face you with two hot five And uh welcome back to Cooking Issues. Okay. Uh Matt writes in, hey Dave and Stas. Uh I recently bought a centrifuge on the eBay.
+
+[16:31] And I was wondering if you guys had any suggestions or resources for cool things I can do with it. There are a few ideas in modernist cuisine, but I want to take it further. Also, do I need to buy special bottles for the rotor or will a uh basic mason jar, etc. do the trick? I see there are centrifuge bottles for sale around the web, but they are expensive, and I hate to lay down that kind of cash if I can go cheaper.
+
+[16:49] Any thoughts? Matt. Okay, do not put a mason jar in there. Do not put a mason jar into your centrifuge. A couple of things I need to know uh before uh before I go on.
+
+[16:59] Congratulations, first of all, on uh the centrifuge purchase. Um you know I I use a centrifuge every day, uh, and we do mainly juice clarification with it. You're gonna need to go out and buy uh the enzyme Pectanex Ultra SPL, which is available at ModernistPantry.com. Even though, like, are they they what's the story? They they're no more love for us, huh?
+
+[17:23] Anyways. Anyway, you can buy Pectanex Ultra SPL at modernistpantry.com, and you're gonna need that with your centrifuge um to do a lot of the clarification work, assuming that you have a lower speed centrifuge. Remember, the guys at Modernist Cuisine have a centrifuge that can easily do like 48,000 times the force of gravity. Most likely yours doesn't do that. If it does do that, you definitely shouldn't think about putting a mason jar anywhere near it.
+
+[17:44] Second thing is the centrifuge, you need to make sure that the rotor and buckets are in good shape, that they're not dented or messed up. Thirdly, you need to clean the hell out of that centrifuge. You need to bleach the hell out of that centrifuge, and you need to take the rotor and pressure cook it to get rid of any sort of biological craziness that might be going on and then bleach the hell out of it again. I think that large amounts of bleach soaking will kill almost everything. I need to I need better information on how to properly sanitize something against prions, for instance.
+
+[18:17] But you if you don't know what was in the centrifuge, you have real problems. Second of all, I don't know what kind like again, what kind of centrifuge you have, but um the the bottles that go into centrifuge rotors are uh they're tough for a reason. They're gonna go undergo a lot of stress. I spin directly in my buckets, right? Although I'm the only guy that does it.
+
+[18:38] Everyone else is like, really? You spend directly in the buckets? I'm like, yes, I spin directly in the buckets. Um never let detergent touch your buckets. You know what I mean?
+
+[18:46] Because the detergent can uh negatively affect the aluminum uh buckets. Uh I have purchased the expensive centrifuge bottles and I have found plastic uh bottles that work in centrifuge rotors, but they tend to fail somewhat. So it you like uh back at the FCI, I had a super speed centrifuge that I could do like 22,000 times the force of gravity in safely, and we used to use uh ketchup squeeze in uh in that thing. And the ketchup squeeze, they worked okay, right, Stas. But every once in a while they would collapse and then they would collapse.
+
+[19:19] And then guess what? They've collapsed. Um, so it you know it's a matter of be careful. Go on to cookingIssues.com, look at the centrifuge section specifically related to safety. You need to be safe with a centrifuge.
+
+[19:33] You need to balance the centrifuge before you spin it, and don't put anything in there that can break and fly apart. And uh, because there's a couple of things, right? There's not just like the broken glass and your centrifuge. If you break something in the centrifuge and then you go unbalanced, then your centrifuge becomes unbalanced, which then becomes a secondary danger. So you have to really make sure that everything is okay and in tip top shape.
+
+[19:54] On the notion of centrifuge, though, so here's the thing. I think I mentioned this on the radio show a couple times is that when I whenever I go do uh demos, they're they're always like, yo, come to a tech demo. And I'm like, okay, what can you get me? Can you get me a centrifuge? And they're always like, no.
+
+[20:11] Unless it's Japan. Unless it's Japan. They park high at Tokyo, baller. Even Nastasha, by the way, Nastasia does not like basically thinks that everyone is like a useless moron. Pretty much.
+
+[20:24] Right? Yes. Yeah. I mean, that's fair to say. Yeah.
+
+[20:28] So for her, especially people that help us out in demos. No offense to those of you that have helped us out in demos. But like, uh, but like the Japanese guys at the Park Hyatt, it was the only time I've ever heard her say, man, these guys are on top of things. They're good people. They're good people.
+
+[20:46] They're good people. And like for Nastasha, like that means you walk on water. That's like, that's it. Yeah. You know what I mean?
+
+[20:53] You're like, you know, that's it. Okay. So uh so centrifuge is tough to get. Now, here's the reason why centrifuge is tough to get. They're big, they're expensive, and they're not yet uh in uh a lot of kitchens, so not a lot of kitchen people have access to them.
+
+[21:07] Now, centrifuge I use at the Booker Index and at the lab and at the school, they're all basically the same unit. The one that Wiley has, same style unit. Um most people are using you know, crat Chad uh and uh Christy, Tad Solomon, Christy Pope, same same kind. It's three liters bench top, does four thousand times the force of gravity, right? And that's what I've always called the sweet spot in centrifuges.
+
+[21:31] Uh now that is unreasonable uh for uh most people at home because it's too large, it's too expensive, and you're not gonna use it that much, right? That's clearly in kind of the divorce/slash breakup with your significant other for bringing it into the house kind of range of things to do is to bring a centrifuge like that into the house. Even I do not have one of those suckers in my house, and I have pushed very far with weird crap in my house before. There is a centrifuge I just purchased to take with me to Columbia that I'm gonna run some tests on this week and see whether or not it's okay. It's available Amazon Prime for under 200 bucks.
+
+[22:06] And it it only does, I think 1300 times the force of gravity, but I've done some initial experiments with Pectine X Ultra SPL and other clarifying aids, and I think I can get it to work at that uh level. Not as well and not as fast as the one that I have at Booker Index, but pretty good. Also, uh the cool thing, I mean the centrifuge is very small, so it really does a small amount uh per spin. It does a hundred and twenty uh milliliters per spin, which is a little a little over four ounces. And this is useless for a bar because please, four ounces, come on.
+
+[22:39] But uh for testing at home and for making a couple of drinks for you know you and your family, uh this could be a viable thing to at least let you play with centrifugation and and what you can do with it. And so I I'll be testing this week the hundred and eighty dollar um, you know, you know, 120 milliliter centrifuge. It weighs 10 pounds and is less than a foot on each side, so could be good, right? I'll let you guys know next week whether it works or not. I hope it does because otherwise I'm out 200 bucks.
+
+[23:12] Uh but didn't that be cool? Oh, yeah. See, Nastasha's really good with this stuff. This is why I have her around. Be like, just send it back if you don't like it.
+
+[23:20] Yeah. Um, but uh, but this way we can always have one of those things when we go do demos. Yeah? How much does it weigh? 10 pounds.
+
+[23:29] So it's nothing compared to the crap we carry around. Mm-hmm. I'll carry the if you can scrap it to my back, I'll carry the world. Okay. Uh okay.
+
+[23:39] Uh Rob uh Trapaz writes in about uh a couple things. Carpano uh and antica formula vermouth, which is one of our favorites. Anyway, uh we use it, uh we use the hell out of it at the bar even though it's uh absurdly expensive. Not absurdly expensive, but it's not cheap. Right?
+
+[23:54] Right. Okay. Uh I recently discovered uh Carpano Antica Formula Vermouth, and I've been enjoying uh Manhattan's with it like never before. My problem is that by the ounce, it takes a long time to go through a bottle. You should drink more, Rob.
+
+[24:06] That's the problem. I'm kidding. I'm not I'm not advocating that. Okay. Um the bottle is kept in my refrigerator with a vacuum stopper, but uh it takes on an oxidized flavor towards the end of the bottle and takes up a lot of room.
+
+[24:19] How would you recommend I rebottle it? I have a bottle capper for glass bottles and a CO2 tank available. Should other lower proof uh liquors like Lilae, Cookie Americano, Dubanay, or Aperall be stored in similar quantities or under refrigeration? Uh and then there's a separate question. Let me deal with this one first.
+
+[24:36] Okay. This is an excellent question. Uh Vermouth definitely does oxidize. And uh this is a problem we come across in the bar all the time. I wouldn't use.
+
+[24:44] Here's the problem with CO2. If you purge out with CO2, you're apt to get like a light tingling in eventually in the bottle. What we use in the bar, we make a bottle of Manhattan. When we do a bottle of Manhattan, we dilute the vermouth in in the whiskey, and it ends up being a lower proof when we're done than the vermouth was on its own, I think. Or it's about about the same.
+
+[25:10] But the upshot is that it oxidizes even more in uh in a pre-diluted Manhattan than it does in its own bottle, and so we have to have a way to keep them from oxidizing. So all of our low-proof things like vermouth in the bottle, anything like that, not only do we store it uh very cold, actually a little bit below freezing, but not below its own freezing point, is we'll drop a little bit of liquid nitrogen into the bottle open. Uh the liquid nitrogen will then rest the cap on top, and you'll see a bunch of vapor coming out of the top of the bottle that's purging out the air, and then as soon as it uh stops uh actively uh pushing nitrogen out, we cap it, right? Um there are other commercial systems based on nitrogen that you can buy that are fairly cheap, like wine saver um things, and that you can use to purge out the headspace. If you've purged a head space out of your uh drink and cap it, you're good to go.
+
+[26:08] Here's the problem. Uh nitrogen, I mean we use it in liquid nitrogen form, so it's sitting on top of the drink and getting all the air out. Nitrogen itself is actually slightly um nitrogen is slightly uh lighter than air. So it's gonna float out of the bottle, and so you can't actually just dump liquid nitrogen into it and then uh wait a long time and then cap it. But you can buy on the internet, you can just look it up.
+
+[26:29] Uh you can uh buy uh argon based system. So if you look at roughly the the molecular mass, average molecular mass of air, it's about 28.97, right? Uh so oxygen heavier than air, you need to per purge it out heavier than the average air, nitrogen slightly lighter, carbon dioxide heavier, so you could actually roll carbon dioxide in there slowly and purge out the air, which is how I make uh carbonated cocktails. But again, and that'll work. I'm just worried that you might have a little residual kind of uh Pringly thing.
+
+[27:02] Although try it, it might work, you know, like just like like snuff some carbon dioxide in there a couple of times to purge out the headspace and then cap it. I mean, that would technically work. But argon is a real money maker rocking in at 39 uh 39.9 um as a molecular weight. So it's it's heavier enough, not quite as heavy as carbon dioxide, but much heavier than air. You can buy fairly cheap little argon cartridges and purging units uh on the internets on the Amazon, and you can use that to purge out uh all of your bottles.
+
+[27:33] If you want to just do it the way that you said you're doing it, I mean that you have with carbon dioxide, you don't want to purchase anything extra. I'd be interested to know uh how that works. But we I don't do it to Aperol, by the way. Aperol is the one thing on that list that I don't really worry about. I also don't worry that much about my Dubonet, but maybe I should.
+
+[27:49] Uh we definitely worry about Cokey Americano, we definitely worry about our Lilae, and we definitely definitely definitely worry about our carpano, especially after it's been mixed with um with with the booze and diluted. I'll say this. Uh we have run tests uh for a couple of weeks with uh diluted uh vermouth in bottles that have been LN purged, and I would like I say recommend Argon or perhaps CO2, and then capped with no oxygen in them, and they are dead stable. Uh at least under refrigeration, they're dead stable, so you can handle it and and it's okay. Um especially you said you had a bottle capper, right?
+
+[28:29] Yeah, you got a bottle capper for glass bottles, boom, you're done. Uh I have to remember in my head whether Carpano will accept a bottle cap, whether the Carpano bottle accepts a bottle cap. Champagne bottles accept a bottle cap, but the carpano bottle might not accept the bottle cap. Okay, listen, I'm gonna go to my second commercial break and then come back with Rob's second question. 718497, 2128, cooking issues.
+
+[28:55] Every night you'll hear croon of a Russian. Just a plaintiff little tune when baby starts to cry. Rockabye, my baby. Somewhere there may be a land that's free for you and me and a Russian lullaby. You're listening to Russian lullaby by Plexophonic.
+
+[29:54] Every night you'll hear crown of a rush. Just a plaintiff, the little tune when baby starts to cry. Rock goodbye. And welcome back to cooking issues. We have a caller.
+
+[30:15] Caller, you're on the air. Uh hi Dave. Uh this is Martin Woodhouse calling from Germany. Uh I had a couple of uh equipment questions, just uh equipment recommendations I was looking for. So the first one uh was for uh what we would call in the UK a barbecue, but I think you would call in the US a grill.
+
+[30:35] Correct. Yeah, don't don't tell uh don't tell a Southern American that uh a barbecue is a cooking instrument, because then you have to like listen to them for half an hour about grilling versus barbecue. You don't want to do it. Yeah, so a charcoal grill basically. So we I I had a Weber before, uh and and then and it was it was okay.
+
+[30:54] I had it a long time, but uh I'm getting some I need to get a new one basically, because I I moved countries and and left the old one behind. So uh have have you is there anything particularly that's any good or or are they all much of a much north? That's a good question. Uh you know, on grills, uh for instance, Jeffrey Steingarden hates Webbers. Hates them.
+
+[31:15] Uh because uh you can't adjust the uh coal height effectively in them. You know what I mean? I mean what Weber what Webbers are good at with that kettle shape is kind of allowing a pile of coals to radiate out uh kind of either side. They're also relatively inexpensive, which is I think why a lot of people um use them. And you know, for me, I mean like the the problems with grills, uh you know, I prefer like a nice heavy grate that can that can really absorb a lot of energy and then and then give it back, but a lot of it's about versatility I always want the biggest grill I can possibly get but the flip side of having a giant grill is that you know you basically need to fire the whole thing or or you lose lose a lot of heat a lot of the grilling I tend to do a lot of super high heat grilling like very fast especially like finishing off sous vide and stuff like that you know so at any rate like larger grills give you more versatility because if you're going to do a high low situation or have the coals on one side and cook in the other you have more space to do it with but the problem is is they tend to consume a lot of charcoal.
+
+[32:20] So if you're only going to be like how many people are you cooking for uh no more than sort of I mean eight at the absolute max but usually more like but sometimes down to two. Right. Yeah I mean two uh I mean like but that's a huge difference right like cooking grilling for eight and grilling for two is a is a is a giant giant difference. Um you know I've never used any of the smaller like theoretically more fuel cons uh conserving uh grills like uh for instance the the egg that a lot of people seem to like uh yeah I saw those on Aki and Alex's blog right do they like 'em yeah but uh but they're really expensive. Yeah I mean how's a coal cost in in uh like hardwood charcoal how is that expensive in Germany or no?
+
+[33:07] No not really but like I think the the the eggs can be up to like five six hundred euros. That's quite expensive for a grill. Yeah. I mean, I I inje like, you know, I've grilled on um a grill is really a lot about how how you handle it. I I would go for one with a big with a nice like I like cast I like the cast iron grates.
+
+[33:27] They're not necessary, but I like them a lot better than those thin wire craps. Um and I usually go for a larger size just because it gives me more flexibility, just be willing to suck up a lot of extra charcoal because you're gonna go through a lot more charcoal than you ordinarily would. I have never used a grate that has like uh uh I mean a a grill that has a really nice system for adjusting the height of the grill surface, but Bobby Flay told me once that he had one that did that, and Steingarden once told me that he had one that that did that. Um, which would obviously be useful because it would allow you to get different different heats without having to lift the thing and shuffle the coals around, which as everyone knows is a messy pain in the butt. And I know it's sort of a a dirty concept for food snobs, but like gas is Yeah, you know what?
+
+[34:13] Like I like uh so I've used gas assists in uh look, here's the other thing, right? I mean, like everybody knows that co coal is great, but sometimes you just want to fire the sucker up and run, right? Yeah, because it's dirty and it takes time to heat up and stuff, so yeah, I mean f you you've used chimney starters before though, right? Pardon? You've used a chimney starter before, right?
+
+[34:34] For coal. Yeah. Yeah. Uh but it's it's just it if if it was gas, I'd use it more often, I think. Right, right.
+
+[34:40] I mean, uh I've I used to have a unit a long time ago that I could go either way with, and I don't know whether I was legally allowed to go either way or whether I literally just threw an extra grate over top of the burners and went went crazy. I think it might be the latter. So that I could do I I'm a big fan of flexibility, and so you know, if you're gonna use the grill more often, especially in the summertime, if you have a gas thing on it and you fire it up. I mean, the one issue with most gas burners is that they just don't have the uh the oomph that you need, right? Yeah.
+
+[35:11] And so, you know, and if you, you know, and as I as I do believe kind of the modernist cuisine mantra on uh what's going on, which is that the flavor of grilling isn't really from the coal itself, but from fat dripping on said coal, uh vaporizing and coming up, then if you have enough power in your burners, then you can do something like chuck lava rocks onto it and then use those lava rocks to get that kind of uh feeling of the of the stuff hitting it and going down. I think that most people's gripe with the gas uh grills is that just they're just not hot enough to get that kind of a uh of a thing to to happen. Do you know what I mean? Yeah. Um But no, I don't think I don't think you're a bad person for wanting a gas grill.
+
+[35:55] You know what I mean? I I I prefer charcoal, but gas is just you know, it it just it's just more convenient. And then the second equipment recommendation is is my wife broke my immersion blender, which isn't too bad because it was crappy. Uh but she's she's she she said she'd buy me as kind of a combo compensation and birthday present, uh uh pretty much whichever one I want. Uh what would you go for?
+
+[36:21] Uh seeing as I don't think you've you and Dave Chank have built your new one yet. No, I haven't. Um I look I only have uh I mean not crappy ones, but I don't have really the the good ones. I don't have a good one either. Uh you try the BAMX or I was about to say the Ban the Bamex seems to be the one that it's the only one I've heard people say that they everyone loves having an immersion blender, but I've never had anyone say that they actually liked the one that they have.
+
+[36:50] The exception is the BAMEX. Um the downside of the BAMEX is that it um it obviously the the the shaft doesn't pop off of the BAMEX to clean is kind of the one the one downside it has. The upside uh for my uh just vi never having used it is that it's got a lot more clearance around the bell for um for fluids to go in and out, and one of the main problems well the first main problem with with immersion blenders is splashing in improperly sized cups with not enough liquid. The second main problem with them is cavitation around the bell in thicker products. For instance, you know, I use immersion blenders to do pancake batter, you know, stabby, but I do, you know what I mean?
+
+[37:34] Uh and um uh and you get a lot of cavitation issues with the standard stamped steel bells that are on most um kind of consumer grade immersion blenders, and the and the BAMX four-prong open kind of blade guard, I think is not gonna have as much cavitation problem as those. And so if I had to go out and spend my 99 bucks on one, I'd probably get that. Not having not having tested it, I might take the jump and get it. Is that I mean also like you know, like some of the other ones, like I happen to have a KitchenAid now, and I don't hate it, but I don't love it. It came with a bunch of other attachments, which I don't even know where they are.
+
+[38:10] I've never used them. Yeah, you know, they're they're more expensive over here, so like the the price difference between a BAMEX and the Kitchen Aid, there really isn't gonna be one when you buy it here, so really, yeah. And that little chopper that they sell to me is fundamentally useless. Uh the the whisk is fundamentally useless. Have you ever seen someone use one of those?
+
+[38:30] Nothing looks more ridiculous than using that whisk on the end of an immersion blender. It's crazy. Yeah, it's yeah, whatever. It's it makes no sense. And eventually, the the um eventually that the connection starts going wonky where it clicks in, and so now mine makes awful grinding noises when I when I when I'm using it.
+
+[38:48] So all said, I do like being able it makes makes me allow allow me to be a lot lazier to just pop off the end of the stick and put it into water. So I'm not gonna lie to you and say that that is not a benefit, but I might go with the BAMX uh the next time around. RoboCoo makes an incredibly expensive commercial one where the actual bell pops off to clean, which seems like it would be nice. But uh I believe BAMX also has the feature that you can remove the blade. Is that true?
+
+[39:16] I think so, yeah. Yeah, that seems like it's gonna be a bad idea because it seems like uh something's gonna break there, but the biggest downfall, even with the removable stem uh immersion blenders, is trying to clean underneath that blade, which is a huge hassle. And so the ability to remove that blade, uh, assuming that it it's not a failure point for the mechanism, which obviously it has a possibility of being, it would be a huge boon to cleaning. I detest cleaning out the uh bottom of the blades of uh of immersion blenders. And I had one equipment recommendation for you.
+
+[39:49] Uh you you mentioned tablets and and that's what I do for a living. So if you're looking for a small scale tablet press, the the the thing you want is called Arriva R I V A mini press. Write that down, Stas. You got that? Mm-hmm.
+
+[40:04] R I V A mini press? Uh you'll uh probably they're quite expensive. They're about ten grand, 20 grand new. But if you can pick one up from a pharmaceutical company, uh sort of from an auction. Right.
+
+[40:18] Uh you you probably get one for way less than that because there's pharmaceutical companies going out of business left, right, and center. So uh and if you get one, it will probably be pretty clean. Uh because they they have to have log books and stuff for when you're using them to produce products. So I wouldn't worry too much in terms of uh too much in terms of contamination, as long as you can kind of get it all visibly clean, uh and then and then wipe, you know, clean it with uh uh some some solvent, uh something like uh isopropile alcohol or or something like that, uh you'll probably not be too bad to go. And how big is it?
+
+[40:56] Dishwasher size, small enough? Uh it's probably about the size of uh uh I'm trying to think of uh something about the right size. Uh uh probably the size of uh floor standing Apple Mac. Ah, nice. That's that's totally doable.
+
+[41:18] So it's it's a it's a bench top unit. It's a single station press, but it's it's a really really nice piece of kit. There Reaver is an Argentinian company, but they're they're one of the standard sort of research and development tablet presses. So like it's it's not really really fast or anything, but you you it's it's because you only need the one punch, it's it's pretty versatile in terms of you don't have to buy s stacks and stacks of the the tooling for it. You only need one set.
+
+[41:48] Nice. I appreciate that. Hey, you weren't uh you you didn't call in with the question about trying to get your kids to eat things, did you? Yeah, I did. Okay, listen, you this is a lucky day that you called in.
+
+[41:58] We have someone who has responded, a very long email. I think uh we're gonna get Jack to read the response, correct? Well, we I might have to substitute. I I mean I can't really feel Jack's shoes, but I have I have the email here. Alright, so Joe, the front what's the name of your band, Joe?
+
+[42:14] Oh, it's called Big Ups. Alright, so he's a front man. I'm sure you can do a good read job. Joe's gonna read the response to your question on how to get your kids to eat stuff from Geek Goddess. Go Joe.
+
+[42:25] Dear Dave and Nastasha the Hammer. I have all kinds of food issues myself, and I was thinking of that family in Germany whose kids have lost their minds and will only eat pasta. Has said father tried sherimi? You know that delightful crab like seafood product that serious chefs loves a hate? Well, my brother, master of picky eaters, I of course would eat anything anyway.
+
+[42:49] Uh my mother or my brother was getting desperate and found the stuff and brought it home. He got to it before she even had a chance to feed it to him, and because I won't eat anything day. So have you tried the Surimi? Will your kids eat the Surimi? What's Surimi?
+
+[43:09] So it's that crab it's that imitation. It's it's what? Imitation crab product. Okay, how'd you spell it? Uh S-U-R-I-M-I.
+
+[43:19] And it really it's the stuff that they put in fake California rolls and whatnot. I mean it is Oh, like crab stick type shit. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah. Oh, sorry.
+
+[43:27] That's alright. That's alright. I agree. Look, it is a st it it is like a crazy, like processed food stuff. And then and it's like, you know, uh, they evaluate various fish products for their ability to be pressed into surimi because it's all about you bleach out any sort of natural flavor it has and then you turn them into kind of uniform sticklets.
+
+[43:45] Uh but uh d would your kids uh would your kids like that maybe? That was that was her first. They might not dig the texture. Yeah. Uh but we can we can try it.
+
+[43:55] We can try it. She also she also suggested string cheese. String cheese. Spring cheese, which string cheese we already do. Yeah, but and then insulted the quality of pizza that you're able to obtain in Germany.
+
+[43:59] I believe she insulted the quality of pizza. Is that true, Joe? Uh yes, that she definitely did. Yeah, in fact, she's condolences. Yes, condolences to you for your like what was the next one?
+
+[44:13] Um then there's uh a quinoa pasta. Oh, yeah. But she said that your kids might not like the quinoa because of the uh the the taste of the quinoa. That's kind of a bit worthy for our family. Yeah.
+
+[44:23] There's a coin she also recommends corn-based pasta, right? Um I'm just kind of scanning through here. Yeah. Well, she says that there's uh that it does contain corn, yeah. Or something I would try.
+
+[44:36] Yeah. Yeah. Kiddings corn. I've had corn-based pasta. It is not pasta, but it tastes okay, actually.
+
+[44:41] Okay. It's like it like rice pasta is horrible. Uh corn pasta is like I say, it's not pasta, but it's uh it's it's okay. But yeah, you're trying to get away from the the kind of boiled starch in general, right? Yeah.
+
+[44:54] Like not just you don't want to just switch the boiled starch, right? In which case I could just, you know, make you make soba or something like that, which I've been working. I'm working on the soap. I don't know if I mentioned that on the air, but I've been working on the soba problem. Uh but uh yeah, hopefully you're trying to switch to it.
+
+[45:06] She had another another kind of a loony lunier thing towards the end, didn't she? Uh uh yes. Um wait well There's something about kangaroo on here. Oh yeah, she's been cooking kangaroo meat. Maybe maybe your maybe your kids can eat some Joey.
+
+[45:22] She she's like, I don't know. This is an incredible email, by the way. It is several pages. I think we should just put that email. We're gonna put that can we put that email, Joe, up just as a response on the Heritage Radio site as a response?
+
+[45:34] Uh yeah, I can't I have to check with the higher ups, but I don't see why not. It's it's long, and anyway, you can read her entire response. You can read her entire response there. I'm not sure if your kids are having trouble eating other things, I'm not sure kangaroo is gonna be the best. I think that's the answer.
+
+[45:50] I mean, hey kids, remember that cute animal that you like? Here it is. Eat it. You know what I mean? I don't know.
+
+[45:56] Like even my kids who will eat almost nothing but will try weird stuff and don't mind like dead animals, I think they might pause with a kangaroo. Yeah, I think I we we we haven't really got to the link between furry things and what's on the plate yet. Yeah, that's a tough one. That's a tough one. Well, I tend to reinforce it.
+
+[46:16] I tend to reinforce it with my kids. I'm like, hey, eat your hamburger, a cow died for that. And they're like, and then but then it comes and bites me on the butt because they're like, Daddy, did a cow die for my hamburger? Yes, a cow died for your hamburger. Like, did it does a cat does any animal have to die for the pasta?
+
+[46:29] No, no animal has to die for the pasta. So yeah, you have to keep on going on. So once you make a statement like that, you have to live with it for the rest of your life. You know what I mean? Or at least for the first, you know, five years, whatever.
+
+[46:39] Anyway. So we're gonna try and post this on the web, and uh, we hope that helps, and thanks for the tablet press uh info. All right. Alrighty. I got one more that I'm gonna handle Rob's second question before on my way out.
+
+[46:51] He says, uh, also, how do you make shelf stable maraschino style or bourbon cherries? All the recipes I call uh for uh refrigerated storage for a period of weeks, and I want to keep them in uh at cellar temperatures for up to a year. Rob Traz. Okay. First of all, uh Toby Chicchini, the bartender, like uh better known as the bartender who kind of you know made the Cosmo to drink.
+
+[47:16] Um also writes for the New York Times, nice gent. He uh has been making uh cherries for uh many, many a year, and his recommendations are that you uh first of all, you need a high proof uh liquor. If you want it to last a long time, you gotta use a high-proof liquor. But second of all, it's the type of cherry you use. He tried various different types of cherry.
+
+[47:35] He happens to have uh, I think morellos, I'm not sure, some type of sour cherry in in his uh in his garden, and those are the ones that he uses, or he sources. Uh he says he's tried to do his cherries with uh sweet cherries and that they're insipid, useless um things. I will tell you this. Uh back before I was allergic to cherries when I could test these things, I had a cherry once that was uh 50 or 60 years old that had been stored in um like almost straight, like super high proof uh alcohol that um my stepfather's grandfather kept in the basement uh in in Connecticut, and they were put up uh in the in the 20s, and I was eating them in the in the 90s, uh uh 80s or 90s, and they were still good that number of years later, and the secret I think is the high proof ethanol. Now, if you want to use a little bit of technology to make sure that you're gonna be okay, uh this his secret was not don't remove the uh I mean whatever, it's like old Italian wives' tale, but don't remove the stem.
+
+[48:36] If you remove the stem, it goes mushy, it turns to crap, you gotta leave the stem in. That's the secret. That's what they used to say. Not with that accent, though, because they're from Boston, but I can't do a Boston accent. Anyways, uh, but you might want to try, if you uh do want to remove the stem or whatever, you might uh and the issue with it is I don't know how long you need to soak it because um it's very hard to get um things to permeate the uh cell walls, I mean the uh skin of things like cherries, but you might try a soak in novo-shaped pectin methyl esterase and a little bit of calcium.
+
+[49:08] Um that enzyme along with calcium will firm up the fruit immensely, and I've used that enzyme to uh make, for instance, uh raspberries that you could boil without them breaking. Uh so it really does firm up cell walls quite a bit. Um, and it's not readily available, but uh, you know, it is available. It's called Novo Shape is the brand name uh from um novozymes, and it's a pectin methyl esterase. Uh now, so I don't know how long it would take to soak through a cherry.
+
+[49:39] We're gonna run some tests ourselves at the bar, hopefully, if we can get around to it. Um, but it definitely works on other things. Then high proof ethanol, and you might want to dope a tiny bit of calcium into that high-proof ethanol if you can. It's not gonna be very soluble because calcium will help help also crosslink the pectin and keep those suckers uh nice and uh you know not have them break down and turn to mush. Good luck with it!
+
+[50:02] Cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritageradionetwork.org.
+
+[50:34] Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by the International Culinary Center. Offering courses that range from classic French techniques in culinary, pastry, and bread baking to Italian studies to management. From culinary technology to food writing. From cake making to wine tasting. For more information, visit international culinary center dot com.
+
+[0:18] Broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.org. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live every Tuesday from roughly 12. Roughly 12, 1245, here on the Heritage Radio Network in the back of Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn.
+
+[0:46] Joined with Joe and Jack in the engineering room, Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, as always sitting next to me. How you doing, guys? Good. Good? Yeah.
+
+[0:53] Yeah? Everyone good? Uh good. So uh I'm glad I got to do today's show because right after we have our weekly Roberta's lunch, with which Nastash and I always enjoy, thanks to the radio station. They give us the free lunch.
+
+[1:05] That's what we work for here, people, by the way. In case you were wondering what the reward for the show is, it's the free lunch. Uh but uh after that I'm going to the airport and going to Colombia, my favorite South American country. Of course it's the only South American country I've gone to, but it is uh Panama. Uh Central.
+
+[1:21] Well, yeah, the Panamanians think Panama is is South America, whereas because it's part of the skinny, skinny, skinny part, which I consider to be Central America, I call it Central American, but that kind of pisses them off because they consider themselves South American. I was like, if it's not Central America, then why do we you know what why is the canal there? Because it's the skinny part. In fact, it's the skinniest part. The skinniest part.
+
+[1:41] Right or wrong. Right. Yeah? Yeah. Anyway.
+
+[1:44] So uh Panama being my favorite Central American country I've ever visited. And uh Columbia being my favorite South America. But I actually, not just the only, I do actually like Columbia quite a bit. Going to Bogota, and the great news is I'm gonna look up your Lukama stuff, by the way, even though they don't have it there, they have a close relatives that can play with. And I get to visit a coffee plantation in uh Armenia, which is in you know the heart of Colombian coffee growing uh thing.
+
+[2:09] So I'm gonna hopefully, if they're if it's there right now, pick some coffee, do some fun stuff, and report back next week with uh news of uh coffee. Yeah? Mm-hmm. Yeah? Yeah, yeah.
+
+[2:18] Okay. Call in your questions to 7184972128. That's 7184972128. Got some questions from last week that I didn't do. Uh this one in from uh Senor Trepa's.
+
+[2:29] Uh I answered his question last week about uh Carpano uh Vermouth, but don't believe I answered his question about cherries. Uh uh I'm interested in making shelf stable marasino or bourbon style or maraschino or bourbon style cherries. All the recipes I found call refrigerated storage for a period of weeks. I want to keep them at cellar temperatures for up to a year. Okay, well look.
+
+[2:49] So m uh the actual uh things that you buy in the store as uh maraschino cherries, uh what they do with those things is they they bleach the color and flavor out of them and make them stable in a solution of uh kind of like sulfur dioxide, which is a bleacher and a preservative and uh and an antifungal, I think. And uh calcium chloride. Calcium chloride is what gives marashino cherries that hardness, right? Because what what the calcium is doing, calcium chloride is actually horrible because it tastes bad, but calcium chloride uh what it does is it the calcium helps to cross-link the um pectin inside of the cherry and cause the the flesh of the cherry to not break down uh over time. Right?
+
+[3:27] So that's why the calcium is there. Then they put it in uh food coloring and syrup over a length of time to reinfuse it with sugar, because it doesn't really have any much sugar f left or flavor or anything like that. Uh and that's not the that's not the way to do it. That that's horse that's horse hockey. Uh Toby Cicchini, the bartender, famous for the Cosmo, I think I did mention him last week in regard to cherries, but I gave a very abbreviated cherry.
+
+[3:48] If I talked about cherries at all, it was super abbreviated and I I apologize. Uh so he he makes his own, but I don't have his recipe. I wasn't able to get in touch with him and get his recipe. But uh you want to look up uh the person to look up on this on the internets is uh Darcy O'Neill from uh The Art of the Drink, who also did Fix the Pumps, the incredibly uh influential book on uh kind of rebringing back stuff from the soda fountain days, from the soda jerk days. Uh and so, okay, so I'm gonna compile all of all of these things.
+
+[4:15] First of all, uh some of the patents online and Marchino cherries in the store are made with sweet cherries. Old style real cherry uh like like cocktail cherries are uh brandied sour cherries and to this that's what I'm told. And Toby tells me that he's tested sweet cherries and sour cherries, i.e., or sour and or bitter cherries like you know, um, you know, Morellos and all those things. And says that the sweet ones are horrible and insipid and the sour ones are the ones you want. And that's actually borne out if you get the Italian uh preserved cherries.
+
+[4:44] They're the smaller kind, like you know, the the ones that we get in the blue ceramic jar whose name escapes me. But they're a smaller and uh the you know, not the not the sweet style. Now, uh the if you want a a good free guide to old cherry varieties, i.e. cherry varieties prior to about 1920, uh look up cherries of New York. Uh you can get a PDF version online for free.
+
+[5:06] It's like from the teens or twenties, and it's got full colored pictures of all the cherry varieties that were grown in New York at that time, which is also a wide range of all the charity varieties that that existed. Not not all of them by by a long shot, but ones that are available here in New York, uh from the Geneva Agricultural Experiment Station. And I ha I have actually have the whole collection in hard hard copy. Now listen, here's what I'm gonna say. I'm violently allergic to cherries.
+
+[5:26] I can't eat them. Haven't been able to eat them since I was thirty or thirty-one. So uh so bear that in mind. Uh don't like, you know, like anything here I can't actually test it for you because it'll kill me. Okay.
+
+[5:36] Now, the trick uh with there's there's two tricks. One, you want to keep the cherries firm, and two, you want to gr you know gradually preserve the cherries so that they don't rot. So uh typically there's two things we add to cherries to preserve them sugar to increase the sugar content so that we're storing them high sugar so that they don't go bad. And two, uh we're adding an acid, which is an antifungal in the thing that is basically a preserved antibacterial antifungal thing in the syrup. And three, uh you're going to add uh sugar, alcohol, whatever, I forget one, two, three, four, five, whatever.
+
+[6:07] Uh like sugar, alcohol, um sugar, alcohol, acid, and calcium, you're gonna add to this. But you have to do it carefully because you have to preserve the osmotic balance of the cherry so that they don't shrivel and or rupture. I'm gonna come back and give you what the answers to that is, but I have a collar on the air. Caller, you're on the air. Hey Dave, uh big fan.
+
+[6:29] I got a question for you today about uh shellfish protein. So uh trying to make uh todd, uh sort of fish paste, a little bit of egg, some curry, fried delicious Thai street food. Uh and was thinking of trying it with um shrimp paste, in fact have was thinking of frying it around some sugar cane. Problem is when you grind up shrimp shrimp paste tossed on a little egg, it falls apart when you throw it in the L. And uh was curious, you know, uh realized, oh maybe that's why crab cakes are much harder to keep together than burgers, but I was hoping you could shed a little light on what's going on and if there's a relatively simple fix.
+
+[7:04] Huh. Well, uh I wouldn't have expected that. Um, but I mean, obviously, the easiest fix, I mean, aside from actually figuring out what's going on in the recipe formulation, is just to add a little bit of transglutaminase to it, uh like Activa RM, and it would bind it, you know, lickety split. Is there enough salt in there for the proteins to bind together? Yeah, yeah.
+
+[7:28] Uh there's uh the uh I add a pinch of salt to everything, uh haven't didn't add uh crazy amount, um, but uh shrimp has some natural salt in it, does it not? Yeah, should. And and you process it long enough for it to get a good what looked like a good bind in the mix before you fried it. Yeah. That's very odd.
+
+[7:48] But I know for a fact that shrimp with a little bit of transglutaminase added to it, if uh, you know, if you'd have to poach it probably first in a little uh in a little water stock to set the outside, but they won't break ever. Never. They will not break. Um I mean that's what Wiley, you know, does to f to make his uh shrimp noodles. And those things I've fried them and they fry fine.
+
+[8:10] So I'm assuming that egg also containing protein wouldn't interfere with the bind with the uh with the uh I'm just so surprised. Although when you think about it, like I always when I'm doing things, I would never do straight shrimp, like in my sausages and poaching mixtures for like fish canals. It's always fish, scallops, and shrimp. So I'm what so maybe there is something strange about about shrimp. Uh but I mean, do you have access?
+
+[8:36] I mean, you can from Monarch Pantry you can buy a fairly small amount of transglutaminase, and it's fairly easy to use. Just sprinkle a little bit in. Don't go I wouldn't the maximum you can add is one percent by weight, but it p you don't need nearly one percent by weight just to just to keep it together. In fact, that might make it too firm. All right.
+
+[8:53] I will uh I'll try it, but uh so there's I'm curious though, you know, what why do crab cakes fall apart more easily than uh than a burger or something like that? Is there something about seafood proteins that uh make them bind less than uh than meat? Yeah, well, crab cakes, remember, a crab cake is being formed from uh meat, at least when I make them, that's already been cooked once. So there's not uh like a a lot of the proteins already coagulated in it, and so the and especially kind of the lump style crab meat that you're using the bigger bigger chunks aren't gonna want to bind together. So, you know, in an in a native in a native un uh uncooked protein, it's uh hasn't been coagulated yet.
+
+[9:31] Um, you know, there's a lot of soluble, you know, liquid-bound proteins. You add salt, more of those things come out, and they've kind of form a gluey, sticky matrix, and then when the heat sets uh you know sets them, it sets into kind of a solid matrix, like a sausage, that's how it works. But whereas like something like crab meat, you know, it's already been set, so you can't you can't do it. I don't know. Yeah.
+
+[9:52] I mean again, you can take cr uh crab meat and bind it with transglutaminase and get it to stick together, or you could add some uncooked protein like fish protein to it to help bind it if you don't want to add other extenders. But the crab meat itself is never gonna bind together as well just because it's cooked. Okay. Thanks for trying out and let you know. Cool, thanks.
+
+[10:11] All right, so back to the cherries for a second. So here's what you want to do. Uh if you go to Darcy O'Neill's website, uh The Art of the Drink, which I first of all highly recommend that you do, you should go to his website, I don't know, buy his you know, acid phosphate soda, support the man, except you know, he's uh doing very good work for all of us in in the world of cocktail and technologies. Uh and he's an actual scientist. I don't know if he still does science for a living or whether he just does cocktail stuff for a living.
+
+[10:33] Anyways, uh what you want to do is figure out about how much sugar in uh is in your cherry. And I don't really I don't know that I trust his numbers a hundred percent because I've read other numbers, but he's basically saying that the bricks equivalent bricks, which is weight of sugar in uh in water for a cherry, is somewhere on the on the order of five or six to sixteen uh bricks. I've heard as much up to like uh, you know, up to twenty, twenty-two, twenty-two uh bricks percent sugar on uh on one of the sweeter cherries. So you're gonna want to start with uh sugar syrup, only slightly more sugary than that. So one-to-one simple syrup is gonna be too much to start with.
+
+[11:11] Start lower and work your way up. Add acid. And Darcy says that malic and citric are the two components that are mainly the acids in there, so you're gonna want to add probably more malic than citric, although that's also what kind of limes taste like. So you're gonna want to add malic and citric acid. You're gonna want to add uh sugar, right?
+
+[11:28] And then you gradually increase the sugar content of the syrup. Uh now he says to make sure there's enough syrup in there such that the sugar content doesn't decrease too much because of the water that goes in, but I would say go a little bit stronger, add it a little bit as you go, get a strong syrup, and then after it's preserved in syrup, start doping in alcohol, like super high-proof ethanol, until it gets to where you want it, and then you should be good uh for a year. But please go read uh Darcy O'Neill's uh posts on uh preserved cherries. Now, we have a caller. Oh, uh also uh anyway, caller, you're on the air.
+
+[12:01] Hey Dave, uh I just made uh about 20 pounds of homemade sausage. Nice. And yeah, and I cooked it the way I usually cook sausage, and it'll uh I did like a link of each batch I made. I did like four different ones, and they all turned out really mealy. And uh I did a little research and it says it's just from the the fat breaking from d taking it making it too hot.
+
+[12:25] Right. And I'm wondering why why, you know, I I can do it a little lower temp next time, but I'm wondering why normal sausages don't uh break like that because the way the way I normally cook it is is you know I'll I'll brown it on one side in a pan and then flip it and put a little water in the pan and cover it and then after about ten minutes I take it off and let the and then cook it until it's kind of brown a little more. Yeah no what they're talking about with high temperature isn't on the cook side. They're talking about high temperature on the make side. Oh okay.
+
+[12:56] So like typically uh I mean uh what kind of sausage was it again? Well I g I I did uh some uh some Thai chicken with some ch I ground up chicken thighs and a little uh fat back in there and then put Thai chilies and Thai basil. I did a turkey with uh dried cherries, a lot of stuff all out of the charcuterie book. Right. So yeah, but so not emulsified though regular like so regular sausage mixers, not not like made into a battery emulsified right?
+
+[13:26] I mean fat right okay. Yeah I think um are you parti are you par freezing the the the the meat and the fat before you grind it? Um I try to um I don't have a great grinder though and so it was kind of just making more of a paste than actual stuff. But half of the half of the sausages I made I just bought from our local butcher shop. They had they make their own sausages and they sold me a pre-ground blend of you know pork bell or pork shoulder and pork fat to you know like thirty five percent fat.
+
+[13:59] And they just sold it to me pre-ground. So I wouldn't think that that would break as well. Huh. And that that one's the one that went mealy, the one that they did pre ground for you? All of them did.
+
+[14:10] The ones I ground myself and the ones that they had pre-ground. I mean, that that's l look look the cooking technique that you talk about the is you know, the old school one, pre pre poach and then and then brown off, right? That's what you said you do. That's what that's what I typically do when I if I don't have a circulator. I mean, that's good technique.
+
+[14:26] So that's not that's not doing it. So it's gotta be I mean, typically when you're looking at sausage manufacturer, there's uh you know, the m the main things are do you have a high enough fat content, which you do, you asked you got it, right? Do you have a high enough salt content to get a good bind going? 'Cause that'll also mean it won't bind together well if you don't have a high enough salt content because the salt is what's allowing the proteins to uh kind of come out and form that that bind in in a sausage mix, right? So was it bound right?
+
+[14:53] If it's not bound right, it's gonna be more like you know, compressed hamburger meat, right? Three, was the temperature of the of the fat and and whatnot cold enough when it was ground so you're not getting weird smearing effects and then you'll get a lot of you know, if the fat tissue is disrupted and and melted instead of you know, ground cleanly, then you'll bleed the fat out and you'll be left with dry and and mealiness. So the the temperature of the of the meat is important and uh you know, proper trim is important when you grind it. And thirdly, the temperature is vitally important in emulsified sausages because you're making an emulsion and the emulsion will break if it gets too hot. And really those uh those are the main factors that I always I mean, not that I'm a huge expert in it, but those are the main factors that I always look for in troubleshooting a sausage problem to see what's gone wrong.
+
+[15:41] But from what you've told me, I can't really figure out what you know I can't really figure out which one of those kind of like main precepts of sausage making were violated, especially 'cause you say you've done it before without problem, right? Yeah, and I mean that's I I you know, when I cook regular commercial sausage, they never break. The way I cook them. So I was wondering if they added something to it and uh you know, to keep it from doing that, or if it's just uh messed up somehow this time. I mean, you can add things to sausage to keep them from breaking, but you you shouldn't have to.
+
+[16:12] Do you know what I mean? So like anything that you add to a commercial sausage, uh anything that's added to to things to stabilize them are there to i just in case somebody happens to abuse them, like kerrageenin or things like that. But they're they shouldn't ever be necessary to uh to to produce a good a good sausage. I mean the only things necessary are high fat content, proper temperature regulation during manufacture, and proper uh salt content. And and of course proper fat type.
+
+[16:41] If you add a fat that's been rendered, that's gonna be horrible. If the fat's already been rendered once, you know, it's never gonna come back to its native form and then the fat won't hold in properly, all the fat'll bleed out and it's gonna be a huge nightmare. You know? I mean like you you you weren't using pr like you were using you said fat back. Yeah, if I got fat back from the local butcher shop and chopped it up and put it in the freezer.
+
+[17:02] But I was using a new uh I mean it's actually a vintage uh grinder I got from my dad. It's uh uh it's at the rival sausage grinder. But it it seemed like it was really maybe grinding it too much where the the fat wasn't making coming out in little chunks more than when it was coming out in almost a paste. So I'm thinking I might have ground the fat too much. Yeah, if the fat was p like came out like a I mean it's again, like it's hard to know, like if it comes out as a paste and you're breaking it up uh too much, then perhaps uh you know, you would need to treat it then more like an emulsified sausage.
+
+[17:37] If that breaks and those that weeps out, right? Then uh you're you know, it's not going to so you know any time you have fat, fat isn't you know, obviously fat's not just fat. Fat is mixture of fat and connected tissue and and uh and a and a bunch of other things. And so when it's native, it'll hold itself kind of in in in place properly, and when it's been melted out, then it's never gonna hold itself right, which is why you want to make which is why they don't want the fat to get smeared when they're grinding when you're grinding for sausage. But but maybe the blade isn't sharp on the on the uh on the grinder, you might sharpen the bri blade and look at it, just making sure you're getting good good contact.
+
+[18:16] It should it should grind clearly and shouldn't come out l warm at all or like a paste. You know what I mean? Yeah, I think that's the problem. It it's something from back in the 70s and uh you know it probably hasn't been sharpened for thirty years. Uh I mean those should work.
+
+[18:31] Like the old pork style or rival, they're all the same with the they look like they they look like the kitchenade, but the barrel it looks like it's been ex pulled out in Photoshop, right? One of those guys? Yeah, yeah, yeah. And they're like, you know, they're like uh uh like shin shiny tin plate cast iron, those guys. They they should work.
+
+[18:49] Um you you know, it's just maybe the blade wasn't sharp. Uh you you should also put the grinder in the freezer as well, so the grinder's cold. Uh but it sounds like maybe that's what w what what happened is that you maybe uh you know, the something went wrong with the fat back and uh it just didn't gr it didn't grind right, paste it out and then uh and then leaked on you when you cooked it. So there's no salvaging it. I took some, you know, some leftover and made burger type, you know, an uncaste and fried 'em up, and those seem to taste all right.
+
+[19:23] Yeah, I'm sure they slip out of the casing. Yeah. Yeah, you could do that. Or, you know, I mean the real problem is is that if you had super accurate temperature control, you might be able to cook 'em at like a straight, like a 140 and then like let do a quick sear off on the outside without melting it out too much. But I know I don't know.
+
+[19:42] I'd have to see because I don't really know. At those temperatures, you know, some of the pig fat will remain semi, not super liquid. It'll all liquefy, but not like super liquid, and you might get it to not kind of run everywhere and go crazy. But uh yeah, but I think maybe breaking it up might be breaking it up and and making patties out of it might be the way to go. Alright, thanks for the help, boy.
+
+[20:05] Hey, thanks. And uh let me know next time you try it whether uh fixing that solved it. All right, cool. All right, cool. Take it easy.
+
+[20:11] You too. All right, so listen, Jack, why don't we go to our or Joe? I don't know who's there right now. Why don't we go to our first commercial break with cooking issues? The International Culinary Center is a proud sponsor of the Heritage Radio Network.org.
+
+[21:37] The ICC with locations in New York and California provide cutting edge education to future chefs, restaurateurs, and wine professionals. We're proud to claim Dan Barber, Bobby Clay, and David Chang among our honored alumni. This is Dorothy Cann Hamilton from Chef's Story. Check out our ICC website at International Culinary Center.com. Hello.
+
+[22:01] And so that uh the band, uh, Jack tells me that is fellow radio show host Damon Bolti's band called Brothers, because Damon Bolti has a twin brother who apparently is also in the band. Although be funny is if he had a band called Brothers and his twin brother wasn't in the band. That that'd be more funny, I think. I think maybe he should do that. They should have some sort of rift.
+
+[22:21] But you should go definitely go check them out and see them if you're really into seeing nine feet tall, uh, skinny uh bartenders um uh play music, right? Yeah. He is kind of really tall, man. He's like as tall as Tristan. Yeah.
+
+[22:35] He's a tall man. How tall would you say uh Damon is? He's taller than me. I mean, he's gotta be a good six three. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[22:42] How does he does he fit into the chairs here in the studio? He does. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah.
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+[22:46] He's never been on my show. He should be. I've never been on his show. You know why? He hates me.
+
+[22:51] I know, I know he doesn't hate me at all. I'm just kidding. He's a good man. I would love that. Yeah, we'll do that.
+
+[23:02] And uh back to Damon for a second. Do you know he makes an excellent old fashioned? Were you aware of that fact? Uh well, I I assumed as much, but excellent, excellent old stuff. Uh they're they're very delicious.
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+[23:14] He made uh what was the old fashioned he made first at the museum event? I don't remember. But it was damn good. Yeah. It was like he was like, I'm gonna he's like he doesn't talk like this.
+
+[23:21] He's like, I'm gonna do something really simple. Someone's gonna make an old fashioned, it's gonna be delicious crap on you guys. He doesn't talk at all like that. He's not like that. But listen, speaking of old fashions and cocktails and food, you need to come to Heritage Radio Network dot org's members only party, September 9th, between five and eight PM at Roberta's Roberta's Roberta's Pizza, 261 Moore Street in Brooklyn, New York.
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+[23:43] There will be food from Grad Mercy Tavern. Back 40 West, Del Posto, Momo Sushi, Inside Park, Parish Hall, Heritage Foods USA, catered by Robertas, see the table, Saxobe Cheesemongers and the Heritage Meat Stop, Cocktails by none another than me, Dave Arnold, Elbuco Mezcal, Galeano, Absolute Vodka Plimotin, and Pierre Jouet Champagne. Beer by Great Brewers dot com, Greenport Harbor Brewing, and Cain Vineyard and Winery. Uh but wait, before we get there, uh if you enter Cooking Issues HRN at the checkout, we'll give you twenty-five dollars off. Holy crap!
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+[24:25] Twenty-five dollars off! Yeah, and then and there's gonna be plenty of food and drink here, right? Oh yeah. I mean like a lot, right? Do you get the VIP?
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+[24:31] You get a little private tour of uh the chocolate factory in the neighborhood. There'll be some special cocktails that won't be available at the party just for the VIP. Um and a whole bunch of other surprises. So And by that what we mean is special means Nastasha won't scowl at you when she gives it to you. That's right.
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+[24:45] She'll smile at you. Yeah, yeah. And then you can have both experiences. You can come during the VIP section and get the smile, and then come back during the regular section and get scaled at, so you can get the double. That's the only thing.
+
+[24:57] I'm not sure. That's not confirmed. Not confirmed, but possible. Possible. And there'll be raffle tickets there for twenty five dollars.
+
+[25:04] Uh the VIP I think I mentioned is two hundred fifty dollars. Now listen, listen. I don't know whether you notice whether you listen, but I I I believe that every time we say we say heritage radio.org. And what that means is is that we are a non profit here at Heritage Radio, which means we need some money to keep this uh going. We need to make sure that we have people in the engineering booth making this stuff happen.
+
+[25:23] This stuff ain't free, people. Jack, am I right about this? It's not free. I wish it was free. It's not free.
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+[25:28] And you know, we have, you know, sponsors, but listen, the sponsors we take are sponsors that we believe in that the and you know, this it's not we're not a commercial we're not a commercial thing here where anyone can come and just you know, plunk down money. It's just not the way it operates. This is like the we operate more like uh PBS. We take kind of good people's money when they want to give it to us, and then we rely on you guys for the rest. Is this true or is this false?
+
+[25:51] You're nailing it. Yeah. Okay, so listen, please sign up, come to the party. Uh I'll try to get Nastasha to even smile at the non VIPs, but you know, no no uh no guarantees. You know, if somebody buys a ticket now, Joe might be able to get lunch today.
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+[26:08] Oh man. I'm just kidding. Joe gets lunch. Yeah, but it's gonna be a good lunch if he gets a ticket now. Now, yeah, otherwise you like you feed him out of what?
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+[26:18] The scrap spins here at uh at Roberta's like when people leave a slice of pizza, like that's what you guys get? Yeah, exactly. Scraps. Snacky tunes, scraps, that's what we eat. Yeah, you gonna help these guys or what, people?
+
+[26:29] Please. All right. Uh speaking of, uh, Joel writes in, uh, Joel Gargano writes in with a big shout out to Joe and big ups. Effing awesome is what he said. He he is actually interested in starting uh another band with you uh and uh doing the old mosh pit.
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+[26:48] The old bringing bringing mosh pits back. Do they still Joe? Do they still have mosh pits nowadays? Yes, they do. We have some mosh pits.
+
+[26:54] But I think you're supposed to be in this band too, Dave. Oh, really? I think he wants he wants you in it too. Oh, all right. I mean, do they still do our mosh pits like like what level of mosh pit are they now?
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+[27:03] Do they do the are the frat boys still there actually trying to knock people over, or is it more like it used to be? Well, it depends on uh, you know, where you're where you're performing. But you know, sometimes you get some people that are just you know gonna kick the crap out of me and uh I get kind of scared. Yeah, but there's kick the crap out of, yeah, there's there's kick the crap out of and then there's kick the crap out of. You know what I mean?
+
+[27:22] Right, there's like the fun get the crap kicked out of you. Yeah, like if you take a if you take like a Doc Martin to the face because someone's flying over your head, like that's all in good fun as far as I'm gonna do it. But if there's like some guy who's just like uh, you know, red in the face and steam coming out of his ears, he just looks at you and just stares you down, and he's you know, this guy's just coming after you. Yeah, D-bags, they ruin it for everyone. Exactly.
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+[27:41] And then I guess go hide in the bathroom. Yeah, that's what's weak. That's weak sauce. Listen, do they still do uh crowd surfing in the mosh pits these days? Oh, definitely.
+
+[27:48] That's good to see some things haven't changed. I know, exactly. Yeah. All right. Uh so now another question in from uh from Joel.
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+[27:55] Uh what's the best way to get coffee flavor into beer? We want to use a local roaster's beans and not buy a pre-made extract. My brother just began operations as a brewer here in Connecticut, Thimble Island Brewing. Uh I'd like to try their product. Maybe someone could send us some Thimble Island brewing product, right?
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+[28:09] Try it. Try it. It's only in Connecticut, very close to us. And we were doing a number of tests to see the best way to infuse coffee into a stout and hold off the overly biddic bitter slash acidic flavors. I'm thinking cold extraction is best suited.
+
+[28:14] You're correct. I went through the infusion post on the cooking issues blog and got some good ideas, yet nothing has proven to be tasty on its own. Here's what I did for testing before I attempt to get the coffee flavor into beer. Made an extract in room temperature water at uh 100 uh to one I can't really understand uh this thing, but 250 grams of uh coarse ground coffee, medium roast, um, and did like three minute, one minute infusions in the ISI whipper with uh charges and then uh blah blah blah blah blah. Uh anyway, your numbers here are way too uh not long.
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+[28:56] Way too not long. What's the right word for that? Way too short. Short is the word I'm looking for. Uh Nastasha actually helped me with that.
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+[29:02] She gave me this look, and I was like, oh yeah, short. Uh but uh when people are doing cold brew in the ISI, they're doing it usually for a much, much longer period of time. When I do it, I do it for two minutes, three minutes because I'm using alcohol and not water, right? So you could actually do a straight infusion into alcohol, or you could take much longer and infuse it into water. Uh and you had this question right here like, should I change the liquid medium?
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+[29:27] Yes. Um we toss the whole beans into the fermenter and hope for the best? No. I would not do that. If uh what I would do is look, your beers, I don't know what your beers are coming in at, but if they let's say they're coming in at like five, five, six percent alcohol, somewhere in there, seven percent, eight, whatever.
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+[29:43] Uh I'm usually extracting into twenty percent alcohol, uh sorry, forty percent alcohol. So my infusions with coffee are very strong and they happen very quickly, even at room temperature under an ISI infusion uh regime. I know people that have done cold infusion of coffee into uh water and liquor in huge five in huge by my standards, five gallon uh containers like corny kegs, uh, but they're letting it sit a lot longer. With your low alcohol percentage, you are gonna have to go uh a lot longer. Now I mean you give it a shot, but my problem with the if you make super concentrated extracts is they tend to go they tend to go bitter.
+
+[30:20] If you're allowed to use an alcohol-based extract, then you could do an alcohol-based coffee extract and dope it in afterwards, right? Just use ISI with um with high proof. And that's gonna be because if you're actually gonna do this in a commercial fashion, you're gonna have a difficult time uh, you know, infusing the entire amount of each batch of coffee that you make. Now, um you also say I grabbed a Starbucks via packet, which is their like supposedly high grade version of uh of uh you know freeze-dried coffee. I've never tried it, and poured some into a Guinness, it tasted pretty good.
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+[30:52] Is that a better route? I know Wiley uses that stuff in sauces and whatnot. Uh I don't know whether he does or not, actually. I haven't talked to him about that's interesting. Uh if so, how can I make it myself?
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+[31:00] That stuff's just freeze-dried uh coffee. Then you ask lastly, what about this guy? And you know, obviously the readers can't we have viewers can't, whatever they are, can't uh see it, but it filter the beer uh beer through a bunch of beans before kegging or bottling, and you post a link to the Randall. So, what a Randall is, is it is a Randall in beer in beer parlance, is um uh almost a modified uh water filter that was developed by the dogfish head brewery uh people to do post infusion. They were they developed it for hops, and what you're doing is running the beer out of the keg through a container full of hops that infuses on its way out to the tap.
+
+[31:38] Now, the issue with it, and people have done a lot of coffee in it to add coffee flavors to it. You have to use whole beans with something like that because ground beans are going to cause wicked foaming, wicked, wicked foaming. So you have to use whole beans in that. And I don't know how much beer you can filter through it and get the same taste, how long it needs to sit, etc. etc.
+
+[31:58] So I haven't run any tests with it, but there's plenty of people doing it. There's lots of links out there on how to build a Randall with uh parts that you know you can buy in a regular hardware store along with things you could buy at a homebrew shop. And what they all amount to is modifying water filters so that you can uh run the uh run the beer through the water filter on the way out to the tap. Now, the dogfish head guys realize that foaming is a big problem because duh foaming is going to be a big problem when you do that. And so their new version, which is on their website, and you can see it, and they tell you the parts you need to build it, but they don't think they build it for you, is has the initial infusion chamber and then a secondary chamber with ice surrounding it to keep the temperature down.
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+[32:39] That's an anti anti-foam chamber. Uh so that's an interesting thing. Go look at Randall, and it's named after Randall the enamel Randall the the enamel eating whatever, blah, blah, blah, because the first thing had so much hops in it when they put it through it that they said it ate the enamel off of your teeth, and those guys at Dogfish Head have to come up with crazy names for everything. They just can't help themselves. They can't help it.
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+[32:58] Uh so go look that up and uh try making some extracts with higherproof ethanol or doing it a lot longer with water, or you could do that a lot longer with water in five-gallon batches, like hours or maybe you know, hours and hours or maybe overnight. Uh, or do traditional grind and then like uh Kyoto style cold uh cold brewing. Anyways, let's take one more commercial break and we'll come back with cooking issues broke her heart today. She's out there crying. Broke my own heart today.
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+[34:23] Hello, this is Mark Ladner from Del Posto, and you're listening to Heritage Radio Here. Yeah, yeah! Yeah, Mark Ladner calling it out. What do you think there, stuff? Did you know that he uh he wasn't even listening?
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+[34:34] Yeah, yeah, yeah. He did a uh he did a shout-out for uh Hello, this is Mark Latiner from Del Posto, and you're listening to Heritage Radio Network. Thanks, Mark Ladner. That's by the way, like that's like if you ever ask Nastasha a question like her, like the only honest answer she can ever give you. I wasn't listening.
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+[34:55] I wasn't listening. Yeah, right. Alright, so a question from before we missed from Andrew Marcus on gummy candies. Uh hey, uh gang. I've recently been trying to make gummy candies at home, but running into some issues, so I thought I'd just defer to you before spending more money on other ingredients, it might just lead to more dead ends.
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+[35:13] Ideally, I'd rather not use gelatin for my veggie friends and potentially not have to cook it so much to preserve the delicate flavors. Nothing specific yet, in other words, on the delicacy of the flavors, just a preference. After reading around, it looks like the only way to achieve the first half, i.e., vegetarian, is with cornstarch uh or pectin, with which both seem to require tons of sugar and require lots of heat. But maybe I'm way off. I was working with gel an, low acyl and high acyl gel an previously, but haven't been able to get anything nearly chewy enough with good elasticity and sheer.
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+[35:41] Do you have any advice? Usage rates for those hydrocolloids would be awesome too. Oh, if I can make it even more complicated, is there any way to add alcohol to the recipe or with that increase the liquid portion too much and make the gel too loose? Thanks for any help you can give Andrew Marcus. Okay.
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+[35:55] Uh you're not gonna have any actual alcoholic candy that's gummy because by the time you get the solids level high enough, you're you're gonna not gonna have much alcohol left in it at all. You can make things that are hard like rocks, really jelly, gel, gel, gelled, uh, that have bless you, thank you. That have uh fairly high alcohol. The limit with most hydrocolloids in higher concentrations to get good gel strength is about 20% alcohol in the finite finished thing. I've done with some hydrocolloids higher, like I've done fluid gel agar fluid gels at like 25, 28%, then have gotten them to work, alcohol, uh, especially if the alcohol you have to add the alcohol later with agar because alcohol can't be boiled at agar setting temp uh, you know, agar um uh temperatures to well, brain is gone today.
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+[36:40] The temperatures that you require to get the agar functional. Hydrate, there we go. Uh you um the alcohol will boil off before those temperatures happen. So most things that are so but you can do like an uh fluid gel that's pretty high in alcohol using agar uh or any one any one of those things, and you can set gels with them with a high enough if you add a high enough alcohol, not too high in alcohol. My brain is so fried today, crazy.
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+[37:02] Anyways, so but you're not gonna get something that's a gummy candy that has actual appreciable amounts of alcohol in it, although it can have the flavor, the base flavor of an alcohol just by adding it and boiling off all of the water and alcohol in it. Okay. So that's that part of the question. Also, low acyl and high acyl gelan uh mixes, you're not gonna be able to get uh the look, you can get very good gelatin replacement with high acyl and low acyl gel-an in the ratios that are normal for gelatin, but in the super high ratio that's in a gummy candy of gelatin in there, it's not gonna have the same texture there that gelatin will. So I don't think you're gonna be barking up the right tree with that.
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+[37:40] I've looked into other hydrocolloid replacers uh to do gelatin replacement, and the one most people use seems to be agar. Agar also, I mean, having done high high percentage alcohol, uh sorry, high percentage agar uh gummies before, uh there's not gonna get the right amount, they're not gonna get the right texture with that. You might be able to, I haven't looked it up, uh I wasn't able to to check it out, but there are kappa carrageen and locust bean gum mixes, and you can actually use agar and locust bean gum, but it's not quite the same. But uh and go to CP Kelco and look up their gelatin replacers or call them CP Kelco, and they might have a kappa carrageenin slash locust bean gum, and the cap is providing the gelling, and the locust bean gum is getting it to act more like uh more like gelat and make it softer. They might have a mix that can be used in a high at a high enough ratio to allow it to do uh gummy candies, but I c I don't know.
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+[38:34] And I doubt it's ever gonna have the stretch and pull of a gummy bear. I mean, you might get something similar. Now, the real awesome one is, as you say, pectin, but you do have to cook the the the bee crap out of pectin to get it to work. What you could do is cook the bulk of it and overcook it slightly and then add super concentrated fresh flavors back. And uh Nastasha and I did that years ago with uh we rotovapped uh strawberry, fresh strawberry juice, down to uh like a si high high brick syrup, overcooked pectin and sugar, and then mixed it in.
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+[39:08] We never achieved hard thing, we achieved like a toffee, but it was the most delicious toffee I've ever had in my life. I can't I wish I had that right now. It was so delicious. It was just really hard for us to calculate exactly what the bricks was because what you're doing when you're boiling is taking it to a certain temperature, but what you're really shooting for is a certain liquid content. And pectin requires high acidity and a high uh solids content, and that's why you have to cook it.
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+[39:31] You don't want to cook it um, you can't cook it quickly because if you cook it quickly, you're gonna scorch the fruit at the bottom, which is the problem why everything has to be done slowly and more mellowly. But uh, you know, maybe you could get away with adding a little bit, you know, after the fact, after it's been cooked up to temperature, as long as you get the the ratios right. So sorry I couldn't be super helpful, but uh but there you there you have it. Okay. Uh and I'm gonna have to rock through these or Jack's gonna pull my microphone out because it's just the kind of guy he is.
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+[39:57] Remember, we don't have enough money to keep my microphone plugged in. I'm just kidding. They have another show coming on, is actually what the story is. Okay, have a question in from uh is this from Paul. Uh in one of the cooking issues radio uh episodes, Dave mentioned that he uses a particular sharping stone.
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+[40:15] It's proving impossible to find the name by going back through all the episodes. Would it be possible to email me the name? I think it was three initials or an acronym or three additionals. Well, better than that, here it is in the real life. DMT.
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+[40:25] Uh I used Duo Sharp DMT uh Diamond uh whetstones. Uh when you're buying a whetstone, uh, none of the real hardcore knife people use this, and they're gonna say I'm a bad human being for using it, but when I actually sharpen everyone's like, meh, it's pretty freaking sharp. It's pretty freaky sharp. You want to get the largest stone you can possibly uh get because uh that's gonna make sharpening large stones easy. The one I have a lot of the one of the reasons why a lot of knife aficionados hate it is because it's got an interrupted pattern in it, and uh and that makes for easier clearing and less kind of gumming up of the abrasive as you're working, but like real, real hardcore people don't like it.
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+[41:00] I like it fine. What I like about this one is it stays flat forever, it's very thin, it's not very heavy, it's unbreakable, unwarpable, and doesn't need to be uh dressed. So I get the two inch the 10 inch uh duo sharp, I buy it in um I buy it in fine, uh the one I get is fine slash extra fine, uh, which is 25 micron grit on the fine side and nine micron grit on the other. I think I've also said before, and if you're a freaking psycho and you like super high uh like soup polishing stuff out, uh DMT now makes uh an eight-inch stone, unfortunately not a ten, that is like a straight diamond with no interrupted holes that has a um a super extra fine three micron uh grit, which is like insanely small. That's as small as most of the high end Japanese stuff, and that'll take it to uh a polish.
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+[41:49] But uh as I've said many times before, Japanese grids and American grits don't correlate with each other, the Japanese grit numbers being higher for the equivalent thing than an American grit number. And secondly, uh an actual grit number isn't necessarily gonna im uh indicate everything, it indicates a certain particle size, but not a spread and distribution of particle sizes, nor how they are bound to the substrate. So there's a lot to be known. And what I really recommend you all do, if you're interested in abrasives, is go to the Unified Abrasives Manufacturer Association, UAMA.org, and go to their uh section called Abrasive Grains 101. And they have a great little web thing in the jig on kind of what is actually going on, like what the grains look like, what the different materials are, why you would use different materials and what that means.
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+[42:36] But if you just want the simple answer, go get a T a DMT 10-inch uh duo sharp uh greenslash red. Yeah? Yeah, okay. And we got one last uh thingamajiggy in from Chris who says uh and he just calls you out, he just says, Hey Nastashi, he doesn't give a crap about the rest of us. Does not care.
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+[42:53] Anyway. Yeah, right. Uh Rumen and Pulsan just released their latest on Salumi, and in fact, uh I just got it. I just got the new Salumi book. Is it actually out yet or not?
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+[43:03] Do you know? Yeah, anyway, I have it. I have it, you know, because I got it, I got it. Anyway, uh Roman and Poston just released their latest on Salumi and go into some fair detail on whole pig butchery, curing, etc. Where it comes up a little short is on specifics for curing chambers.
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+[43:18] How much airflow do you need, mechanisms for controlling humidity, minimum practical sizes, etc. Do you guys have a good reference for someone trying to set up a small slash trial and development scale chamber? I want to uh give some Copa and Lard a shot, Lardo, I guess, before committing to a larger setup for the shop. So is it going to have to live in an apartment until I can convince the boss that it's ready for prime time? Also, in what may be a long shot, the website for National Center for Home Food Preservation publication seems to have been shut down.
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+[43:45] Any chance you or Dave has a copy of their cured meats.pdf referenced to the November 15th, 2011 radio show, I think, or know a place to grab it. Uh okay, so I went on the national uh I went on the National Center for Home Curing and Food Uh Preservation, and I didn't go get to go back to listen to what I said, but most of their publications are back up, so I don't know if you had a temporary problem, whether it was temporarily broken and now it's back. But if it's still down, I'll look for the specific one that you you need to find. Some of them are organized in a wonky way, like you have to click next, next, next to get through it, and you can't download it easily, but it seems to be there. Now, back to uh Roman Pulson.
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+[44:19] One of the great things I saw about it is uh they they actually very early in the book said something that uh it I need people need to say more often. They said, uh, when you're making salumi in America, do not try to make Italian salumi in America. Make American salumi. And I think that's a great, great thing. So for instance, Sam Edwards, our our good friend and one of the benefactors of the Heritage Radio, uh, he sells his hams as Suriano, trying to piggyback on Serrano style hams, which I think is a mistake.
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+[44:50] And I've told him this to his face. This is not nothing he doesn't like already know that I think is a mistake, because I think American hams are amazing, delicious, and they're their own product. They shouldn't be compared to Spanish hams, they shouldn't be compared to Italian hams, they're American products. And the same goes with if you're making Salumi here, don't try to make an Italian product. Make what make an American, I mean you can use Italian techniques, but you should be shooting.
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+[45:14] If you're trying to shoot to make somebody else's product, then all you're ever going to be is a runner-up to their product. If you try to make your own product, uh then you get to be the best at that, and you can focus on what makes it better, what makes it worse, which isn't to say you don't respect and love the procedures, techniques, and flavors that someone uses in a place like Italy. But I'll tell you what uh Fong told us from what's the Imperial Tea Court, right? Is the name of his place, Stas? We went out and visited.
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+[45:38] He's growing tea in California now, and I asked him, I was like, What do you want the tea to taste like? He said was probably the most profound thing he could say about this. He says, I want it to taste like California wants tea to taste. In other words, he wants to make tea that tastes like what tea should taste like when it's grown to the best of its abilities in California. Anyway, so I thought it was a good point that uh Roman and Polson brought up in that.
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+[46:00] Uh, but then let's go on to your actual question. If you want to see what real badass curing technology is like, before I get into your actual answer, see how long it takes me to get into an actual answer? It's ridiculous. Nastasha's shaking her head and giving me her I hate you face. Okay.
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+[46:12] Uh the Italian company, Travelini, which is you know spelled Travag Lini, Travagini, right? Uh are the world's greatest curing, drying, aging, uh, and like ham and salumi production equipment machine people in the world. They are the best, bar none. They are amazing. In fact, they are the company I always point at when I say that technology can be used for good in the production of food rather than just for making it cheaper, because these guys have developed curing rooms and aging rooms that are specifically designed to mimic what goes on.
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+[46:45] They originally built it around what goes on in Parma, like in a Parma ham. So they they get humidity, uh, they get temperature, they cycle the humidity and the temperature inside the place to uh mimic the day in, day the day night, day in and out uh changes and seasonal changes in the ham to try because that's what's what's driving the aging in a long-cured process like ham is not just the humidity and the temperature, but the shift in humidity and temperature from both season to season and through day and night. Uh okay. So look at their stuff if you want to see some real badassery. Okay, now, you're true, you're exactly correct.
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+[47:20] In the book, I looked, and they all do have a rat you know rather um that's a paltry kind of amount of information on how to make a curing thing. Remember this. The smaller a curing chamber is the less it's the less stable it's going to be over time. People really and they do mention this a lot which is probably why they don't really go into it too much. People love their curing rooms.
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+[47:40] Going back to Sam Edwards who I talked about before he has a number of curing uh houses for his hams and he says he can know which one you could blindfold him bring him into one and he'll know which one it is based on smell because curing houses develop their own set of microflora and fauna I guess over time and those are going to influence the flavor of each one of the products. So it's incredibly important. So you're not going to get probably a stability of flavor in a small thing because it's too easy to push a small item one way or the other same way it's hard to get a small fish tank to stay uh in good shape forever because if it goes a little bit off it goes way off whereas larger fish tanks can be more self-corrective because they're larger systems. That said um if you want to if you want to basically just hey say hey look you don't want you said airflow. I don't have a lot of data right now on airflow but you you need uh uh you don't want too much airflow because it's gonna uh cause case hardening on the outside drying off but you know some might be there but he the for the best deal in control of a small setup and by that I mean you're gonna convert a fridge to an aging chamber or you're gonna convert you know I don't know some sort of like a small box that I I could not believe what a cheap deal it is and they're gonna be back in stock they say in sept in September on September 20th.
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+[48:53] Go to Aubur Instruments. I've used one of their things it's fine it's okay they're the cheapest people in the world Aubur instruments and check this out for ninety-seven bucks they have a plug and play temperature and humidity controller that already has the sensor on it. So what you do is you just plug in a humidifier or a dehumidifier and a heating element into it and they handle up to 10 amps and put it in and just dial in what you want it to be right so there's two ways you can do this if you know that your chamber is always going to have too low of a humidity then you could attach a humidifier to it and jack the humidity into it. If you know that the humidity is always going to be too uh it's going to be sorry that's gonna be too humid then you can add a dehumidifier to it. So uh another way you could do it for instance you can set the humidity of a chamber by doing something like a like if you go to Google saturated salt solution uh RH standing for relative humidity so sodium uh NACL so you know sodium chloride table salt saturated solution if you have a saturated solution that's sitting in your chamber the chamber is going to equilibrate to 75% humidity so if you want lower than that then you could put a dehumidifier on that sucker and you know that you're always going to need to dehumidify it slightly to get it down to sixty or seventy percent humidity when you're when you're going if you know if look if if the other way to do it is if you know that you're always in a relatively non-humid environment you could put a fan which moves a little bit of air out of it to keep the humidity down and then put a humidifier attached to it that makes it humid as it goes but but so that's a that's the way I I would go about doing it and it's cheap and it should work.
+
+[50:24] We'll see you when you get back when I get back from Columbia cooking issues thanks for listening to this program on heritageradio network dot org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritageradio network dot org. Heritage Radio network is a nonprofit organization.
+
+[50:58] To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Whole Foods Market, a dynamic leader in the quality food business, a mission-driven company that aims to set the standards of excellence for food retailers. For more information, visit Whole Foods Market.com. Broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.org. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:28] This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live on Tuesday, about five, ten minutes late in the back of Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn. Calling your questions live too. 7184972128. That's 718497-2128. Joining the studio as usual with uh Nastasha, the hammer Lopez, Joe and Jack in the in the booth.
+
+[0:47] How are you guys doing? Great. Yeah, you doing well, Nastasha. I just became members of Heritage Radio Network, so we're we're pretty happy with you. Who, Booker and Dax LLC or Cooking Issues the show?
+
+[0:57] Yeah, you guys, Nastasia and Oh, as humans? Nice. Well, congratulations to us, and thank you, Nastasha, for signing us up for that. Yeah? Each?
+
+[1:08] Each. Yeah? Nice. All right. Worth it.
+
+[1:10] Worth it. Worth every penny. Uh by the way, I'm it looks like I'm horribly out of shape. Today on the Williamsburg Bridge. No sympathy.
+
+[1:17] Today on the Williamsburg Bridge. No sympathy. This guy. I didn't ask for sympathy. You know, I like how see Nastasha f again, this is another thing about Nastasha.
+
+[1:26] Those of you who don't know. You left at 1155. For those of you that don't know what's going on. I didn't say I'm late as a result of being out of shape. I said I'm horribly out of shape.
+
+[1:35] Nastasha creates conversations in her head and assumes that they've already taken place and then makes conclusions based on those conversations that she thinks has already taken place. Like for instance, me saying, I'm late because I'm out of shape instead of leaving early. I'm just merely stating the fact that I'm out of late. Now continue with my story that has nothing to do with me being late, has to do with me being out of shape, Nastasha. Uh the um This guy passes me at the beginning of the Williamsburg Bridge, and he's on the straightaway, so I figure I'll catch up to him because I very rarely get passed because I bike uh not because I'm in shape or because I'm athletic, neither of which is the case, but I get extremely angry when I ride the bicycle, and as Nastasha knows anger increases my phys physical abilities.
+
+[2:12] Not in a hulk-like sense, but just you know, anger, right, Saz? Right. Yeah. Anyways, guy beat me by 30 seconds at the top of the bridge. I could not believe it.
+
+[2:19] I'm gonna have to go into some sort of training regimen. Uh the reason I'm late, actually, is because I didn't follow my own advice, because I'm a moron, to come here and do my research from Roberta's instead of doing it from home. That's the reason I'm late, uh, Nastasha, for your information. Uh anyways, let's go to some questions because I have a reduced amount of time. On the Leukama, which I promised I'd answer.
+
+[2:39] Uh the question was, uh, can you use Leukuma powder? Uh is there a substitute for Leukuma? Leukama is this uh fruit that I think some people think is a superfruit or something. I don't know. It comes from uh Peru.
+
+[2:50] And I said that I thought I'd use something similar to it in Colombia, and then I'll come back once I'm back from Colombia, which I am now, got back on Monday. Uh would uh, you know, maybe you could use instead, or that I try to use some of its properties to figure out a substitution. Turns out uh I was completely incorrect and memorying my memory was completely wrong. When I researched my memory when I got back, because I didn't see anything similar to it. What I remembered is is that Nastasha, you'll have to tune in for this and tune out of your uh uh Z Zappo's uh uh session there.
+
+[3:18] The uh it's not uh it wasn't anything in Columbia I had that was similar to Lucima, it's Canistelle. Remember Canistelle? Yes, the egg flu fruit that we had in the uh fruit and spice park? Uh and based on that, there is a taste component to it that's important, but it seems to me it's mostly the texture of it that's important. Uh because it it was the texture of that egg custard fruit, uh canistel, C-A-N, uh I can't spell it loud, but canistel, that was so kind of amazing.
+
+[3:44] And uh there is a producer of canistel that ships when it's in season, which is I think December through March or May or something like that. Uh and uh they're in Florida, and if you go on localharvest.org and look up fresh gardens, they will ship fresh canistel anywhere in um in the US. I don't think you're gonna get a powder that's going to mimic those same things. I mean, you could use a hydrocolloid mix to do it, but the thing about the thing about the canistel, and I guess a leukoma which I've never used fresh, is it's just extremely dense and custardy on its own, which is probably a combination of high fiber content, low water content, and uh probably a number of strange polysaccharides that contribute to its to its consistency. So you could try to get that texture just by jacking polysaccharides in it.
+
+[4:32] For instance, locust bean gum or well, locust bean gum is good for that, because guar is expensive now. If you're gonna use guar, you have to use the flavor free guar from TIC gums, uh, or some form of thickener. The issue when you thicken something is you some people say that you uh perceive an increased gumminess, which is true. The higher the concentration you use, the more a kind of gummy something is, but sometimes that can be pleasurable. It's just basically managing the expectations of what the texture is gonna be and messing around with it to get the texture right.
+
+[5:01] The other issue when you add hydrocolloids is um once you add them in enough of a concentration to truly thicken thicken thicken something, you're masking flavor. And the only way to uh reduce that masking effect is to increase the flavor profile of what you're what you're using. But um I'll try to look into it more. It's an interesting problem. I wasn't able to I wasn't able to get an answer for you, so I I apologize.
+
+[5:26] Right, styles I'm useless men. Yes. But you you enjoyed the uh the egg custard stuff, right? Yeah. Canistel, delicious.
+
+[5:32] And by the way, uh if you believe the uh the wiki folks, uh canistel actually tastes better than the leukum, I just they don't happen to grow the Lucum being the canistel in, I guess, Peru where it's popular, where Lucum is pro popular. How about that? So the stuff we had was actually superior. Anyway, okay. Next uh question uh from oh, we had a response actually to our vegetarian gummy question uh from uh Andrew.
+
+[5:57] He says, Hey guys, I just thought I might be able to help with the question about vegetarian gummies. On the subject of alcohol, because of you know the person who wrote in wanted to know if they could make an alcohol gummy. Uh on the subject of alcohol, I've made an I've made an alcohol-centered gummy for a product development project in a confectionary school. But the thing is you need a two-shot mogul. And for those of you who don't know what a mogul is, because that's not going to make sense to anyone.
+
+[6:17] Moghul uh is uh I think it's a brand name of uh NIDI NEDI or whatever the hell they're pronounced, is uh uh of confectionery machines that uh do starch molding. So it's a it's a whole confectionary line that produces starch molds and then does uh depositing of candies into starch molds. And they're called uh moguls. You can look up um I di mini-mogul if you want to look up the uh the uh thing. NIDI starch depot depositing.
+
+[6:43] Look up minim or there are other other lines, and they use them for depositing marshmallows, fondance, and uh, you know, jellies, all that kind of stuff. Uh anyways, so uh wait, where was it where where was I? Oh yes. Uh but the thing is you need a two-shot mogul and you need to make sure that both your outer gummy and your inner alcohol mixture have close to the same specific gravity, so it's not really possible at home. Which I figured, right?
+
+[7:05] Figured. Okay. Uh for vegetarian gummies with a really too chewy texture, however, I would try messing around with either starch, which we've talked about, or uh gum arabic. Uh agar is way too short, meaning I guess brittle to replicate a gelatin gummy, and I personally don't like the cooling effect that comes with high uh levels of agar. That said, pectin is my favorite for gels, has such a great flavor release and texture.
+
+[7:26] Thanks for everything you do, Andrew. Ah, and the one that you is really easy for you to do at home, it's not starch, it doesn't require a lot of cooking, and I hadn't thought of, is the one he mentions, which is uh gum Arabic. Gum Arabic is expensive, but what's interesting about gum Arabic is it's has an extremely high solubility. Uh so you but yet means you have to use a preposterously high amount of gum Arabic. But that said, you have uh minimal uh taste impact with gum Arabic uh on on your flavors.
+
+[7:55] Uh so this is an excellent suggestion, but I believe, and I I haven't had time because I just read this this morning to research uh Arabic-based can't gum Arabic-based candies, but I'm pretty sure you're gonna have to deposit it liquid into uh starch mixture and then let it dry for a uh fairly long period uh in a relatively controlled environment. Uh I mentioned, I believe, starch molding once in the past, and there is online available an 18, I think nineties or nineteen tens or twenties uh handbook produced in England on confectionery. It's like the complete confectioner or something like that, and it has an entire section on uh starch molding and how to accomplish it with techniques that don't require sophisticated equipment, i.e., you can do it at home. It's not state of the art because it's from over a hundred years ago, but it's doable at home and it goes through the ins and outs of molding and starch, and it's available free on Google Books. Uh so that's something maybe you should look into.
+
+[8:49] Another question. Should we take a break or should we take a good question? No, go on. Okay, another question. Uh James writes in with uh several things.
+
+[8:56] Uh once uh thanking us for circulation uh circulator info. Uh dear uh Jack, Joe, Nastash, and Dave. Uh, been really enjoying the show down here in Australia and have a few questions about freezing, shelf life and tentacles. After learning about re-thermalizing, which is what we call reheating so that the government doesn't get mad that we didn't reheat it to an incredibly high temperature, destroying all the flavor and texture, whatnot. After learning about re-thermalizing on your show using a thermal circulator, has become an everyday part of our cooking that has greatly increased the yumminess in our house.
+
+[9:22] It's now routine to make quantities of both stock and prepared meals, such as curry soups and other ingredients for more elaborate dishes, including wild mushrooms, confit and octopus. They are prepared and then chilled using good food handling practices, including ice baths and flat pans for chilling, uh fat p excuse me, flat pans for chilling, then held at two degrees C overnight and packed in server-sized portions using a chamber, vacuum sealer, flattened and frozen in layers no greater than thirty millimeters. Uh by the way, this is a kind of I love hearing that we've ever said anything that actually makes people's foods better, right? I mean that's that to me is uh that's the best. I love that.
+
+[9:55] Like that's that's a success. That's you know, but and before we had uh, you know, a bar or any kind of place when uh we could actually serve things to people to directly make them uh hopefully make them happy. But the only kind of uh satisfaction we got out of stuff was that people said that the information we gave them help. So I like that. Anyway, uh the freezer is set to negative nineteen C, which is roughly minus four Fahrenheit for you guys uh here in uh Fahrenheit land.
+
+[10:20] And using the turbo button, which we don't have, which I assume is a fan speeding thing to increase air circulation on the inside of your freezer, which is a good idea. I wish all freezers had kind of an increased circulation uh technique on the inside of the freezer to handle large loads like that when they couldn't, is rated to handle nineteen kilograms of freezing per twenty four hours. Uh, it is a frost-free model made by Mela uh Liebher, which we get Mila, but we don't get the fridges over here, do we? I don't think so. It's a I associate that more with uh Europe, yeah.
+
+[10:49] Um that seems to be designed to minimize the freeze thaw cycle by sealing the drawers and dehumidifying. Uh my question is, how long can I keep this frozen stuff? The online guide, say one month for stock, three for prepared meals and fish. Yet the snap frozen wild-caught shrimp I have purchased, have a shelf life of 18 plus months. What's the deal?
+
+[11:10] Ah, excellent question. What's the deal? Here's the deal. Um the freezing uh shelf life, uh the the frozen shelf life of products, and this is a dirty secret that no one tells you. When you are uh looking at the shelf life of a refrigerated product, most people think what you're talking about is how long can it stay in the refrigerator and still be safe, right?
+
+[11:33] Because bacteria can still grow, molds can grow in the fridge. And so in the fridge, shelf life is a safety concern. However, when someone is rating the shelf life of a product, they're actually rating two separate things. They're rating one, is it going to be safe to consume? And two, is it going to taste good?
+
+[11:50] Right? So there are plenty of things that exceed their shelf life in the fridge or in the freezer, but are still safe. Now, in the fridge, it actually is dual situation. Safety and uh safety and palatability. In the freezer, it's ex it's almost exclusively, shelf life is almost exclusively based on is it going to taste good or cook well once it gets out?
+
+[12:14] And the culprits uh in a freezer are one, freeze-thaw over time, right? So they have to assume a general uh, you know, a certain kind of level of quality of your of your fridge. Freezer, rather. So most freezers thermally cycle quite a bit and go up and down, up and down. In any home freezer, not a hundred percent of the water in a product is frozen unless you're talking about pure water ice.
+
+[12:37] Because not all of it is frozen, any time the temperature goes up and down, some more of the concentrated, basically everything that's in your meat, like salt, proteins, all those things are in a very concentrated solution. They uh water increases and decreases, and when every time it does, smaller ice crystals inside of your product tend to grow because the smallest ice crystals typically are going to melt all the way first, and then when they re when they refreeze, they'll freeze back onto the larger crystals. So ice crystal size increases over time in your freezer, and as a result, those larger ice crystals penetrate cell walls and whatnot and cause for more drip loss, which means when you thaw it, more of the inside juices of your product are going to drip out, rendering your product more crappy. So the longer period of time it spends in a freezer that's opened and closed a lot and goes through a lot of uh freeze thaw cycles, the crappier your product is. And so that's a major influence on shelf life.
+
+[13:27] Another uh problem with shelf life is it things that are exposed to uh actual atmosphere on the inside of your fridge, whether inside of a package or uh or not, tend to um what happens is they grow crystals on the outside and the and the surface of the meat become uh dehydrated due to sublimation and then recrystallization, etc. It's called uh freeze um freezer burn. And so this is a uh a situation that deteriorates over time, right? And so this is another reason why certain things have a specific shelf life. You minimize this by reducing any opportunity for your pro the product's surface to not be covered.
+
+[14:01] So if you're vacuum bagging, this reduces a lot of that. Or even if you're bagging something and you remove most of the air such that all the surface is in contact with uh something that's gonna prevent sublimation of of water, you're preventing that. The third thing is that because you're actually in a concentrated solution and not totally frozen, right, uh certain oxidative changes and other changes, enzymatic changes, whatnot, can take place in a freezer. Rincidity of fats is one that's uh very well known. Fats can become more rancid in the freezer if they're stored.
+
+[14:28] Uh and you're reducing that by vacuuming at a high level of vacuum. So you want to, you know, a high, high level of vacuum when you're doing this. And that's going to retard those kinds of things, thereby increasing uh the shelf life on the inside of a freezer. So the steps that you're taking, right, should ensure that you have a very long shelf life, right? The one thing you should note is that freezing is not a prevention, if freezing doesn't kill bacteria necessarily, so the safety of a product when you go when it goes into the freezer isn't any better than it is when it comes out.
+
+[14:58] The freezer just arrests uh kind of any sort of bacterial degradation during its freeze time. Uh if you actually want to preserve things for dang near infinity, you need a freezer that actually does freeze all the way down to the point where everything in the product is frozen, and for that you need a super deep freeze, like our friends Mark Ladner has over there at the Del Posto that keeps things at like minus 79 uh I think Fahrenheit or Celsius, I forget which, which uh in French is dang cold, and most people can't do at home. And in there, there's no uh liquid water left in the substance at all. And so, in essence, it's in uh suspended animation. Okay.
+
+[15:32] Next, I'm a big fan of the sous vide octopus tentacles as they are tender, but don't have the honeyish taste that seems to come out when cooked conventionally for a long time in stews. Um my question is uh sorry, uh cooking stews. After much experimentation and ruling out suppliers, uh I got octopus from Victorian and West Australian sources. I've worked out that timings uh in the both Under Pressure book and the Modernist Cuisine book result in an overcooked papy mess that falls to bits or delaminates, for want of a uh want of a better word. Prior to sealing, the legs are blanched for 45 seconds in a big pot of water and sealed to a medium vacuum.
+
+[16:06] The size of the octopus doesn't seem to influence the time that much of cooking, but the common about uh common across any cooking time is that the legs seem to lose a lot of fluid that sets and sets in much the same way as a gelatin, and they never seem to look like the pictures. Not that I'm complaining, they still taste good, and the octoo makes a great addition to sauces and to and makes a mean ramen. Doing some tests, I've worked out that the timing needs to be reduced one point uh one to one point five hours, about twenty-five to thirty percent of the recommended cooking times. By the way, uh under pressure, I consulted it, and uh their recommended octopus uh cooking is 77 degrees Celsius for five hours. Um but size seems to make little uh these can be big critters where I come from with uh four tentacles weighing in at over 1.8 kilograms, which is like uh almost five pounds for us uh Americans here.
+
+[16:52] But size seems to make little difference. I think this is a result of the practice of tenderizing that occurs down here using a freeze thaw cycle or a small cement mixer. Uh but I'm interested to get your take on it, Chains Jeers. Jeers James. Uh I like that.
+
+[17:05] Jeers. From Chains. That's gonna be my that's gonna be my that's gonna be my uh sign off on letters Jeers. See if anyone gets it. Anyway, uh so Nastashi, remember when we cooked that giant octopus?
+
+[17:16] Were you there that day? Yeah, so True World Foods, which is a Japanese supplier, and uh which, you know, Yuji uh Haraguchi, who now is working here at Robertas and has his own ramen shop. Yuji! Go Yuji anyway. Yuji used to be our supplier from True World, and uh he once got us a giant octopus tentacle.
+
+[17:32] Remember that sucker? That thing was big. Uh and here's the and we cooked it. And before I go on, because I'm gonna forget to mention it. The interesting thing that no one talks about with octopus cookery, uh, and that Nils and I used to think about quite a bit and only had a couple times to experiment with, is that, and McGee talked about, we talked about a lot in the McGee, Harold McGee classes, who I'm gonna see next week at Harvard, by the way.
+
+[17:52] Next week uh cooking issues is gonna be in Harvard. I can see if I can. I gotta see if we can do the show from Harvard, though. You know what I'm saying? Anyway, because we're doing the Harvard uh lecture again next week.
+
+[18:03] Uh okay, octopus, by the way, I'm sorry, I have so many, so many diversions that no one knows what I started talking about, but this you have to excuse me. That's how my brain works. So octopus are like the smartest things, uh, like the one of the smartest things in the in the ocean. They only live for like two, like some are even shorter, but like the big ones, like two, three years. And then after they uh either the males after they do their business, you know what I mean, with the women, right?
+
+[18:28] They uh go senile and just start wandering around on the floor and let themselves get uh of the ocean and start letting themselves get eaten by anything that goes around. They go, it's called senility, it's senescence. So this is literally what happens. The males do that, right? And then they're like, and they wander around the floor and just get eaten and taken apart and stuff like that.
+
+[18:45] The female octopus, whatever, they don't give a crap anymore. It's like literally like they just wander around on the floor of the ocean drunk and crazy and then get eaten. The female octopus holds itself up, like doesn't eat anymore, and sits there with its funnel, just uh airy, like you know, blowing uh uh water over the surface of its eggs to prevent uh kind of parasites from attaching and to protect them in case the the uh poop hits the fan down there. Then as soon as the eggs hatch, she wanders off and dies and starves or whatever, and it's done. Yeah.
+
+[19:14] So anyway, so there's these weird things that are uh that are incredibly smart, like kind of amazing, they have amazing skin, amazing abilities, like cephalopods in general, of which octopus is my favorite. Uh although probably not to eat, probably squid is my favorite to eat, cephalopod. I think it goes like this. I think it goes squid, then octopus, cuttlefish being dead last in my in my cephalopod ranking of eating. Anyway, they're like incredibly smart, and if they live for even like, you know, twice or three times as long, it's it's my feeling that we would have octopus butlers on like uh in like aquariums on motors, like following us around, like doing our work for us because they would have evolved to that much higher level of thinking.
+
+[19:55] And if they lived an order of magnitude longer, like 30 years, I have no question that they would have evolved to the point where they'd be out here just kicking our behinds left and right, and that we'd be in little cages and they'd be marveling at how well we could unscrew a jar with our tentacles. Really? I.e. fingers. Yeah, man.
+
+[20:09] They're really amazing creatures, but delicious. Anyway, something you might not know is that the different tentacles of an octopus taste different, right? Uh so they have dominant tentacles and non-dominant tentacles. So that's an interesting thing. Especially because we usually eat octopus like hacked up in a salad.
+
+[20:24] There's no way to know. And also, the texture of the tentacle is radically different depending on where in the tentacle you get it. So we did a comparative tasting of this giant octopus tentacle from the base of the tentacle all the way to the tip. And it's been many years since we did it. Uh, but I believe the sweet spot was somewhere uh like towards the first third of the of the tentacle.
+
+[20:43] I not the thin part. You didn't like the thin part, right? That's the more rubbery part. That's the more rubbery part. Uh and by rubbery I mean like the same texture as the small part of the lobster claw.
+
+[20:52] You know the small part of the lobster claw has that weird texture? Yeah. So the uh I believe the tip of the tentacle has that kind of a texture more, which makes sense if you think about it. Uh, but you don't want the very base either. I think it was uh the big like right around the first third.
+
+[21:05] And you could do that in this tentacle because it was like three feet long. It was crazy. Uh and so uh the way we did it similar to the way you did. We did Japanese style where it's slowly dipped tentacle point first so that curls into itself, then put in a bag and vacuumed. And it does indeed release a lot of goo.
+
+[21:19] And this is the difference between oven cooking something or or or pot cooking something and doing it in a bag, because the one thing that people always uh stop don't think about or rarely think about when they're cooking in a vacuum bag, is there's no reduction inside that bag at all. And so what that means is all the juices that are exuded from the meat itself end up in the bag. Uh that said, so you're not going to get that concentration, which is where that honeyness is coming from that you get if it's kind of reducing in its own goo over time in an oven. Uh that said that octagoo is delicious, but I don't think there's any way that you uh can get around uh get around that. As for the other problem you had, which is uh the shorter cooking time.
+
+[21:58] I haven't done a comparative study. I know about freestyling, which talking about before is basically ice crystals rupturing the uh flesh so that when it thaws out it it's gonna drip, but then also be more tender. Uh that works, uh and so does uh the technique we call beating the hell out of, which is also practiced by some people, but I myself have never run a comparative study of a non-frozen versus a fresh octopus, and I've never run a comparative study of a beaten the hell out of versus not the beaten hell out of uh of an octopus. So I can't really speak to whether or not your octopus is different from our octopus, and by that I mean whether your octopus is different from Nathan Miravold's octopus and uh Thomas Keller's octopus, which are the two uh sources that you cited. Um that said, some people like their octopus to be a papy mess, which I I don't.
+
+[22:40] I I like a little more tooth in uh in the octopus. Uh Nastasha, what do you like? A mushy mess or more tooth? Tooth. Tooth.
+
+[22:47] Yeah. So it could just also be a matter of taste because one person's mush is another person's uh tender. And so I think that's a nice way of saying, right? So I I don't know, it's really all a matter of matter of taste. I didn't time it when we did it.
+
+[22:58] We literally did it by pulling the bag out of the water and squeezing it. We also, I believe, did it at a much higher temperature. I don't think when we do our tests, we did our tests at 77. Um, I think we did it a good bit higher, like 85. So I can't really speak to it, but we did not cook for five hours.
+
+[23:14] There's no way on God's earth we cooked that thing for five hours. We just kept pulling it out of the bag and squeezing it. In our opinion, the amount of time did make a difference uh based on size. And the reason I say this is because the tips of the tentacles were differently done from the base of the tentacles. So the size did make uh a significant difference, in our opinion, but that also could be that the different parts of the muscle were different.
+
+[23:34] So we didn't test, we didn't basically we're schmucks, we're schmucks. What we should have done is is taken the octopus tentacle and sectioned it all the way down in an exactly uh you know same sized uh strip all the way down and tasted it along the length. But you can't do that either because uh octopus muscle, uh the way it's structured, uh it it's a uh it's what do they call it? A hydrostat, hydraulic hydrostat, something like that. There's a word for the way octopus muscles work, and it's the same way that our tongue works.
+
+[24:02] Our tongues are articulated such that we can move them in any direction even though there's no bones. And so there's a particular muscular arrangement in an octopus, same as an elephant's trunk, that allows that to happen. And so uh taking an internal portion of it's not gonna be the same as taking the external portion. So you can't win. Turns out, as usual, Nastasha, you can't win.
+
+[24:18] Wait, you never wrote a post on that, did you? No, of course I never wrote the post on that. I just have the information in my head. I didn't never write the post. We have the pictures, it was Piper who did it.
+
+[24:25] Uh and as an uh shout out to someone who's gonna buy the Bammox, clean the Bam. This is also from James. Uh, cleaning the Bammox is really easy. Run it in hot soapy water, then clean water and wipe down the housing. The blades grip really well, and I've used the units that are 25 years old, they're still going strong.
+
+[24:39] Make sure you get a 240 watt for home use, badass power, bamics from James. Uh, it's not our commercialized James. I was just reading it with my commercial voice. Yeah. With that, let's take our first break.
+
+[24:44] Cooking issues. So you don't shot the devil with your rock and roll on knows that coaching music is gonna say your soul. Rebel bosses groove in the rhythm and blow that sale. It's gonna get you side in the air. And those things that took you will.
+
+[25:21] So God's fearing man of team to what advances. The rock game open to escape. It's a telling you. Today's program has been brought to you by Whole Foods Market. Did you know that pollinators are needed for more than two-thirds of the world's crop species?
+
+[25:44] Most of these pollinators are bees. However, North America's bee population has been steadily declining since the 1990s. Whether you live in the country or the city, you can show your commitment by hosting the hive in your backyard or even on a rooftop. The beekeeping movement is growing, so you're sure to find swarms of folks who can help you find your way. Learn more about the ways you can help be the solution at WholeFoodsmarket.com slash share the buzz.
+
+[26:16] You'll see them stones in hell by the village as well. Really, Jack, really, Jack, be the solution. That's not like happy. I thought it was kind of nice. So what music are we listening to?
+
+[26:30] It's uh more of Damon's band, brothers. Damon Bolti! Are we gonna get a shout out to the sh to the uh to the thing next week or not? Are you gonna give a shout-out to it? Come to the Heritage Radio!
+
+[26:41] And what is the annual fundraising party? It's right here. Our first annual fundraiser. First annual members only fundraising party at Roberta's Pizzeria on Sunday, September the what, eighth? You gotta give me the cotton, oh yeah.
+
+[26:54] September. I don't have in front of you. Look, if I'm gonna if I'm gonna scream like monster truck things, you have to have it in front of you. It's hard to put the monster truck voice on and add lib at the same time. Is it sold out?
+
+[27:04] Some additions. Yeah? We have sellers at Jasper Hill gonna bring cheese. Good Gript type from Dap Tone Records is gonna be DJing Funk and Soul with special guests. And get this, Brian Kenny, the guy you know from the Hearst Ranch commercial playing songs.
+
+[27:18] No way. Well, I I now there's something I have to say. If he's not gonna play it, we're not doing it. That's it. I think he'll do it.
+
+[27:27] Okay. Alright, because I was about to walk out. Like I Nastash and I have decided that uh our New Year's resolution last year, and it's a little late, so we'll have to do it again for this year, is to be complete divas at all times, right? Yes. You don't have the yellow Skittles.
+
+[27:39] I'm out! There is Perie Jouay, so that means I'm gonna be here. Nice. Did I mention what a badass uh pastry cook commit is? Yeah, he is.
+
+[28:03] Yeah. That's Brooks Hedley! How's this for a menu item description? Sidewalk greens and toast. Sidewalk greens.
+
+[28:13] Sidewalk greens. Uh, let me tell you, you can collect lots of sidewalk greens on the lower east side. I just don't happen to pick them. I'm a little nervous about the exhaust fumes from the in uh in my uh lamb's quarters. I'm assuming these were not from the lower east side.
+
+[28:25] I'm assuming it's lamb's bushwick. I hope not. I'm assuming it's lambs quarters. Those things grow all over the city. Like there's lamb's quarters all over the city that you can just pick and use.
+
+[28:34] Like personally, I guess. No, no, it's like Oric, it's like it's like a salad green, it's good. It does not, it's not like that source. It's good. But I mean, again, I've only collected it not next to uh where I've seen homeless people poop.
+
+[28:47] What? That's true. I'm not saying there's homeless poop in this dish, people. You should still pay the money and come to the members only party. Jack's horrified now.
+
+[28:54] All of a sudden Jack stops talking about it. I'm out. Hey, look, homeless people's poop washes off the same as horse and dog poop does, so don't worry about it. So it's heritage radio network.eventbrite.com. How much are the tickets?
+
+[29:07] They're 150, but you're a cooking issues listener, so you can use the code cooking issues for a $50 discount. Oh, snap. Has anyone used our code yet? I'll have to check that out. Yeah, uh uh are you gonna charge more if you come to the door?
+
+[29:20] No. VIP is two fifty. And you're at the VIP. And for that, Nastasha will smile at you while she has the glass of Pierre Jouay in her hand. My my one of my favorite things about Nastasha, and this is true favorite thing, is that this she is she is a sucker for champagne.
+
+[29:37] Loves as do I, by the way. I love champagne. Love it. And uh and Nastasha loves champagne so much that even if we're trying to serve a cocktail, instead of drinking our cocktail to like to sell the cocktail that we're making, she's like, crap, but no, I want champagne. I want me some champagne.
+
+[29:51] Well, if you put strawberry in it, you're a strawberry. Is that what we're gonna do? I think so. Yeah, that's what we're doing. When well, it's not gonna be strawberry, it's gonna be a different fruit that's in season.
+
+[30:00] But something like that. Something like that. Okay. Uh buy the dang tickets. Support this show by buying the tickets with our code so that people know that this is a PBS thing here, right?
+
+[30:11] This is our PBS pitch so that they know that you know you care about if you care about quality programming, like cooking issues radio, show your support by becoming a member of Heritage Radio Today. Right? Is that sound more like what they would say? PBS voice. Yeah, thank you.
+
+[30:25] Uh okay, another question from Co F Miles about Coon Recon pressure cookers. I'm a long time listener to your cooking issues radio show, albeit offline, and seriously, time delay via the podcast. The question may be more for David, uh, because Nastasha doesn't care. I'm just messing. But I've been experimenting with an eight-quart coon recon pressure cooker.
+
+[30:45] I would now like to start making healthy quantities of stock. Uh uh, that means big. I'm looking for a cooker between 28 and 30 quarts. To date, I've uh been able to find only aluminum cookers in that size. Since my stove is induction, I need stainless steel cookers or one with a stainless steel bottom plate.
+
+[30:59] Do you guys know where I might look? Thanks in advance, coF Miles. No. There is, as far as I know, no easily uh purchaseable pressure cooker uh that is uh that large, other than the ones made by uh American like American Pressure Cooker, American, it's Wisconsin Foundry, and they make the large ones. And Nastasha, we have one with the screw down things that look a little bit.
+
+[31:23] What? This question? It was no, yeah. Yeah, I did care. That's fair, fair.
+
+[31:29] I'm gonna take that as a smack. By the way, what you're hearing now is Nastasha's, I get beaten on by Dave on the radio show. Again, if you guys heard even one twelfth of what she says to me off air, you would have no sympathy. I'm just saying that because that's her ploy. It's her ploy.
+
+[31:44] I looked it up this morning because I was like, this guy thinks I won't know the answer. So he's asking David. Oh, you see, it's it's it's actually because you see, you never know what she's gonna take personally. You're getting better insight into the Lopez mind here, by the way, folks, which I appreciate. Uh but there is a simple solution for you.
+
+[32:04] Um the simple solution is they say uh you can buy this, it's preposterously overpriced, but you can look online for the Max Burton uh eight-inch induction interface disc. And it's just a slug of stainless steel with a handle on it that you put in between the induction burner and your uh stainless steel, uh your aluminum in um pressure cooker, and with that, you can then there also do uh ceramics, glass, you can heat anything because the induction burner is instead of heating your pot directly, is heating a steel slug in between your pot and the thing. It's not as efficient or as fast as um as a normal uh you know induction in a pot, right? Because you're not heating the pot directly, but it is m still fairly efficient, and I haven't tested it myself, but it should be fairly fast, not as fast, but fairly fast. Won't be on on obviously on ceramics because it takes a long time for the heat to travel through a ceramic no matter how it's applied.
+
+[32:57] But they charge like a hundred bucks for it, which is an outrage. You can just buy a like a steel plate like eight by eight or like twelve by twelve, but you really want to fit the size of your pot. You can just buy a steel plate online. Doesn't have to be stainless, even stainless is nicer and it won't rust. But uh anything like that, a slug uh to put in there.
+
+[33:13] But look at so you can get the basic like look of how it looks. Max Burton 8-inch induction interface disc with heat-proof handle, and that's your solution. If you're worried about putting um stuff inside of aluminum because you think that there's a taste issue, although I cook in aluminum quite often, you know, barring certain, you know, highly whatever. Anyway, uh, you can put a bain marie on the inside of it, a large bain marie on the inside of one of those pressure cookers and still make a large quantity of stock, or you can cook directly in the aluminum. One last thing.
+
+[33:40] If you have a lot of space, money, and power, you can buy a used autoclave, which is a medical piece of equipment uh that functions ha as a pressure cooker, and you can actually use an autoclave as an extremely large pressure cooker, but unless you uh you know, you have c have to keep it in your garage or something like that. But that's what they use. They use Frankie, the instrument uh the uh uh equipment company sells uh autoclaves that are repurposed for kitchens. Uh and also I think I forget who makes them here, uh Market Forage pressure cookers that are basically like autoclaves that are meant for kitchens, but they're not often used outside of industrial institutional cooking here, and in Europe they're used like Nils used to use them in Sweden on large amounts of uh potatoes. Okay.
+
+[34:20] Uh hi, Dave, uh Nastash Joe and Jack. This is coming in from uh Arny Skaug in Norway. Um listening to your podcast yesterday and a few tips for the guy who asked about shrimp cakes and sausages. I'm Norwegian. Uh in Norway, uh fish cakes are traditional popular way of processing fish, commonly made from cod, haddock, and pollock.
+
+[34:39] Homemade fish cakes invariably use egg, flour, and potato starch as a binder. It is said that not using a binder renders them short, that is grainy. Commercially made fish cakes use different binders like tapioca and contain only from 40 to 60 percent fish. However, I've been experimenting on using a different approach, wanting to use as much fits as possible for flavor, and I've been using a method adopted from research I've done on sausage making. I read somewhere, I think, in an article by Lynn Knipe, associate professor of Ohio State, uh, that uh in the meat department that regulating the pH value of meat of meat is a good way of obtaining uh good primary bind and sausage.
+
+[35:09] I lost the article on the computer crash and can't find it again, so this is from memory. The article says that a relatively high pH in meat helps solubleze myosin and meats. It also says poor slaughtering practices can result in meats with a low pH value due to improper chilling. Uh and also for animals that freaked out when they die, the pH can drop quick because they have not enough glycogen in them. Anyway, this promotes the breakdown of glycogen in the muscles.
+
+[35:28] However, a higher pH also increases the water holding capacity of proteins. Um, uh I've used this experiment to uh I've used this information to uh experiment regulating pH in sausage meat, and I usually incorporate sodium carbonate in the salt about one to two percent uh by weight of salt. I wonder whether he's actually means sodium carbonate or whether he means bicarbon, not sure. Uh but go look up Harold McGee on sodium carbonate versus bicarbon. He's basically raising the pH of the meat.
+
+[35:51] This greatly improves the binding capacity of the sausage, sometimes too much, and the sausage becomes rubbery. In those cases, I add vinegar to the sausage meat and mix well, which loosens the texture again. Back to shellfish protein, I've used the same technique with fish cakes uh with good results and believe it'll be worth trying. It's interesting. Um I've also experienced uh experienced that the freshness of the fish is important, but I don't know if this is because of pH.
+
+[36:10] What you're talking about there, and he agrees with me on the grinding and stuffing and says you use a sausage stuffer, but they're expensive because the auger in a meat grinder heats up the meat again. You can buy inexpensive sausage stuffers in this country if you go to like Harbor Freight or Northern Tools or Grizzly and buy sausage stuffers that are intended for hunters. They're not as well built as the normal kitchen ones, but they'll work. You can buy a five-pound sausage stuffer for under with a hand crank for under uh a hundred bucks, I think. Um, so the article he's talking about, which you should read, is by Lynn L Y N N Knipe, K N I P E Meat Export Research Center of Iowa State University, which is why we had problems, and it's called use of phosphates in sausage.
+
+[36:45] Read it. Uh it says a lot about phosphates, which increases the water holding capacity and also helps fat emulsification by uh altering the ionic balance in that. So go ahead and read it. Uh Arnie will be in New York in February and March of next year. Are there any classes he can take?
+
+[36:57] I'm gonna have Nastasha look into that and we'll talk about it next because I don't know when my classes are. They tell me like a day before and I just show up and cook them kindly. Uh William writes in about milk. Howdy all. I love making custard based ice cream.
+
+[37:09] I understand that tempering the egg yolks is a normal procedure, especially for food safety. Are there other benefits to tempering the yolks? Why not use pasteurized eggs? Sous pasteurized or Davidson's brand pasteurizing and skip the tempering altogether. Also, I live next door to a dairy farm that offers raw milk and cream.
+
+[37:23] My country living folks tell me that I should still paste the raw milk, so I never bothered going there. I've never had raw milk. Does it really taste much better? Okay, first of all, on the custard ice cream. There is a difference between un uh like ones that haven't been cooked out and ones that have.
+
+[37:36] If you look at it, a creme on glaze base is thicker than if you just blended the ingredients together. So I've never tasted side by side, same recipe, cooked uh normally versus not cooked, okay? But like cooked actually to an on glaze, up to like 82 to 15 minutes in a uh Celsius for 15 minutes in a circulator. However, um I'm assuming that you're gonna get a faster meltdown in the one that hasn't been cooked out just because there's a higher uh viscosity in the one that has been cooked. That said, Sam Mason, who's like an ice cream genius, like you know, like like an ice cream savant almost.
+
+[38:07] He's crazy ice cream delicious, doesn't like the taste of cooked eggs in his custards and doesn't cook therefore the custards. And I just started experimenting with low temperature, uh basically pasteurizing my uh ice creams at like 60 degrees Celsius or 62 degrees Celsius, which is what I did when I was in Columbia last. And they're great. So, you know, I don't think that there's uh uh in other words, you can make and Sam makes some of the most delicious ice cream that I've ever had in my life, uh, and that stuff uh he doesn't he doesn't cook it out. So I think it's m mainly a safety issue.
+
+[38:38] Uh and when I cook for myself, generally, I just take the salmonella risk and eat it without pasteurizing. But I've been having to cook for pregnant people recently, so I pasteurize the stuff out now at like 60. Um, on raw milk, does it taste better or does it taste worse? I am going to defer to uh Ann Mendelson, who wrote a book on milk. Uh and her argument on raw milk uh versus not raw milk is in I think incredibly well put, and she basically says that most people who talk about raw milk versus uh pasteurized milk come at it from some crazy perspective other than taste.
+
+[39:09] And she is a taste person. She says she's had that most pasteurized milk uh that you get, it's also homogenized pasteurized milk, by the way, uh, is bad in the supermarkets compared to what the best milk can be. However, just having it be raw uh doesn't make it better. The best milk she's had have been raw milks, but they've been from you know very small like producers who take a lot of care, have the right kind of cows, have the right kind of feed and X, Y, and Z. So her main point, which is the best point, and and it you so rarely read food writing where people come at it from what I think is the correct point of view, which is uh it's not it's this you know she's not starting from a preconceived notion of what's best.
+
+[39:50] She's saying, hey, taste is the notion that I'm shooting for, what makes it taste better. So she's had horrible raw milk and she's had fantastic raw milk. And so uh go read her discussion of it in her book on milk uh and see see what you think. Chris Young, uh, you know, from Modernist Cuisine, you know, interestingly points out that it taste is a matter of taste. In Africa, right, everyone likes the taste of what we think is ridiculously overcooked milk.
+
+[40:12] And if you tried to give them milk that taste as close to coming out of the cow as possible, they would think it's awful because they prefer the taste of cooked milk. So taste is taste. Uh while I was doing this, I looked up a website called uh RealMilkfacts.com, which is a shill out for a uh law firm called uh Marlar Clark, and this is a law firm that deals in food poisoning. So they're big on they make they make money based on suing people as a result of uh food poisoning. Uh that's that's how they do it.
+
+[40:37] So wait, but uh they they have some uh interesting things, and from them I got to the CDC. The CDC uh is on a uh uh basically a crusade now to stop people from wanting to ask for raw milk because they see that there's a huge surge in popularity in raw milk uh now among kind of health crunchies and then taste advocates. And so they have a big thing. So look up uh uh real raw milkfacts.com and they point to these two cases of kids. I would never serve raw milk, by the way, to like a young kid, because if they get an E.
+
+[41:08] coli breakout problem with a young kid, there's lots of things you wouldn't serve to a young kid other than just raw milk because of the possibility of uh of a breakdown. Um I'm not gonna have enough time to fully go through classes are the only one they have online, and it's hard to find, is um CV intensive September 28th, 29th of this month. I don't think they're doing hydrochloroids anymore. But if enough people No, no, no. We're supposed to teach one called Cooking Issues, but like we never never uh Well, maybe you should take that over and do it at this base.
+
+[41:38] Yeah, I don't know. Anyway, uh I I think I'm gonna have to go more into this uh pasteurization, not pasteurization and and and health and not next week, but I would like to point you to a a website before we go that I just when I was researching this stuff came across and uh they uh NHS, which is the National Health Services of Uh Britain, which by the way I grew up uh completely frightened of because my you know my parents uh uh well, you know, I grew up with my dad's an injured, and my mom's a doctor, and my stepfather's a doctor, so I grew up in kind of a doctory kind of a household. And I I I'm not gonna have a time to go into this, but basically, so they you know, when I was a kid, they were like, you know you think that the healthcare in Britain is great but if you're over the age of 65 and you need dialysis they let you die this was back in the like 80s so I don't that's probably not the case anymore and whatever yeah I'm gonna get some calls on this crap. But um an interesting website that's put out by the NHS is called um how to read health news oh it's called Choices behind the headlines and one of the articles in it is how to read the health news by Alicia White. And we need a website like this in this country where it's basically uh they go and they debunk all of the health related claims that are made in the news so like a big news story hits like uh you know gastric bypass surgery surges in the UK and then they'll go and they'll be like no it's not actually surged because we're a nation of like you know millions and millions of people and you know it increased from like a thousand to three thousand so yeah it's like three three hundred percent more but that's still like a drop in the bucket stuff like that.
+
+[43:09] And they they actually break down studies and why they're crap and then also say how the news media is misinterpreting scientific studies and not doing their research. So anyone involved in healthcare and health and uh research should in the US should check out how they're doing it in Britain and we'll talk more about that. Hopefully we'll get a comment on it and it's called uh behind the headlines on the NHS uh website at NHS I think dot UK look up how to read health news by Dr. Alicia White uh and and that maybe we'll talk more about it next week if I'm back next week we might have to skip a week depends on whether we have time when I'm at Harvard. Are we teaching on Tuesday?
+
+[43:46] I don't think so. Midnight. Tuesday night? So then maybe we can do the show live from Harvard with Harold McGee cooking Issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org.
+
+[44:09] You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today.
+
+[44:33] Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by the International Culinary Center. Offering courses that range from classic French techniques in culinary, pastry, and bread baking to Italian studies to management. From culinary technology to food writing, from cake making to wine tasting. For more information, visit International Culinary Center.com. Broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn.
+
+[0:21] You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.org. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Aron, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live every Tuesday from roughly 12 to roughly 1245 at the Heritage Radio Network in the back of Roberta's Pizzeria in Buschwick, Brooklyn. Jack decided not to show up today because uh well, we had the fundraiser over the weekend and now he's just too big for us, right, Joe? Yeah, he's doing presidential things right now, I'm guessing.
+
+[0:58] Yeah, he's just, you know, he's like smoking, you know, tobacco rolled in hundred dollar bills and all kinds of crazy stuff over there in the Heritage Radio uh headquarters. But thankfully Joe is with us, and as always, Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. How are you doing? Good. Yeah.
+
+[1:11] Apologize that we were not able to do the live uh cooking issues uh with uh Harold McGee over at the Harvard because we just couldn't do it. We had to we let I mean that's all there was to it. We couldn't do it. We were prepping out. The class started as the show would have been ending, and that would have been uh that would have been a big poop show had we done that, right?
+
+[1:30] Mm-hmm. True. True. True. Uh so speaking of McGee, uh Harold McGee and I will be in London, and we're gonna go to the Prague Dale in Fanisham, where Nastasha and I went like a year and a half ago, maybe.
+
+[1:43] Yeah. It was two years ago? Two years ago. Two years ago. And uh it is well, okay, look, okay, look.
+
+[1:50] All right, fine. Geneva, New York, uh, is where all of our, when I say R, I mean the good old US of A, where all of our uh apples are stored. And the way you store an apple is by planting trees, right? So they don't just like literally store I mean, they also store seeds in liquid nitrogen like sperm banks, but uh a lot of people don't really believe in that because they think that the seeds might mutate over time, etc. blah blah blah.
+
+[2:13] People like to own the freaking trees, right? Then also, if you have the trees, you can see how they respond to various things. And the the reason that our tax money goes to it isn't because people uh the people who decide the tax money stuff think that you know we should have wide variety of delicious apples. They're more worried that some crazy apple disease is gonna come through and kill every apple except that one crazy variety that they saved, right? At least that's the original genesis, the reason there's money behind this project.
+
+[2:39] And so all of our apples are in Geneva. And uh Geneva, New York has the greatest collection of apples in anywhere in the world. But but the Brogdale in Favisham in Kent, England, an hour outside of London, is uh where they have the largest culinary apple collection. So the way they get around this is is there's a crazy guy, Phil Force Line, who used to go to Kazakhstan, which is where apples come from, and he would gather all kind of wild apples. I don't know how the hell he smuggled the seeds back into the US or went there when some crazy quarantine situation or whatever, uh because they have huge genetic diversity of uh different apple varieties, as well as other fruits actually, in this thing called the Tian Shen Fruit Forest, which stretches from China to Kazakhstan, uh and it's a huge, kind of apparently incredibly beautiful, awesome place, and one of the places on earth actually that I really want to go.
+
+[3:26] Anyway, uh so he went there and just collected a bajillion different kinds of wild uh you know, malice apple species, and planted them in at Cornell up in Geneva, and it's uh it just so that obliterated the Brogdale's collection in terms of sheer numbers. But Brogdale has the culinary apple collection to beat in the world. However, however, I'm extremely partial to the flavor of apples as grown in upstate New York. So we've been to the apple collection, but when we went to the Brogdale Apple collection, Nastasha and I, I was sidelined by the fact that they also have an incredibly awesome collection of pears. And actually, you know what we missed last time is uh there should still be a couple plums on the trees.
+
+[4:06] But see, here's what's but it's nut season, so they're gonna have all the nuts. In fact, we're gonna miss the nut festival. I mean, it'll be the nut festival with Harold and I there, but we're gonna miss the official nut festival by uh a couple of days. But the here's what's amazing about the Brogdale and why anyone that lives anywhere near London and uh doesn't or hasn't been to the Brogdale a bunch of times, honestly should be incredibly ashamed of themselves. They should just be, you know, you should be I I don't know, you should wear a hair shirt and a dunce cap and go into the corner uh and just you know beat yourself with sticks uh out of out of you know anguish that you've missed this huge portion of your life so close to this amazing resource and you haven't gone yet.
+
+[4:49] Would you say it's accurate? They could join you, can't they? I don't know, I don't know exactly what time I'm gonna be. Literally, say so McGee and I well for first of all. So the Brogdale, unlike us, where our pears are in Corvallis, uh, Oregon, and our berries are in Corvallis, Oregon, and we have uh our apples in Geneva, New York, and our our collections of germplasm are spread all all over the uh all over the country.
+
+[5:13] Uh the the English basically, can only grow stuff in Kent. Uh come on, no no offense. But you can take offense if you want. But anyway, so their entire collection of stuff is at this one place. So it's kind of one-stop shopping for everything, small fruits, and you know, the English, they know gooseberries like the nobody else.
+
+[5:29] They have like the gooseberry collection, but not the time of year. Anyway, uh apples, pears, nuts, plums, cherries, Kentish cherries. Anyways, so my point is is that uh I'm going to Temperate Fruit Paradise on uh on Friday. Uh like my plan my plane lands. McGee and I, we he's coming from California, I'm coming from New York.
+
+[5:50] We're meeting at Heathrow and taking a uh train directly to Favisham. We're gonna I'm gonna throw away all I'm not even gonna wear clothes. I'm just gonna dress myself in fruit and then take that fruit because we're going to our good buddy Tony Canillaro and Rhea's wedding. Congratulations to them. Uh, you know, one of my favorite bartenders in the whole.
+
+[6:07] Yeah? Yep. Yep. Okay. Calling your questions live to 7184972128.
+
+[6:12] That's 7184972128. Joe, who's bringing the show to us today? Um, it would be the International Culinary Center. The International Culinary Center. I'm doing actually a demo with them uh tomorrow.
+
+[6:22] You coming to that thing or no? I'm gonna go there today to talk to them, but I mean I don't think our viewers care about the demo for Pepsi Pepsi Pepsi Co, right? Pepsi. Anyway, okay, questions. Uh hey Dave, Nastasha, Jack, and Joe.
+
+[6:37] Although Jack doesn't care about your question, Ron, because he's not here to listen to it. I'm just kidding. I'm just messing with Jen. Uh several shows back, we pop, we pops, you know, we pop soup, our intern, and the one of the current founders and designers, I'm assuming, of uh the uh Namako emergent circulator. Uh several shows back, Weep called to talk to you about the Namaku.
+
+[6:58] Uh Namaku and Namko. Co co, right? Coo. Coo? Yeah.
+
+[7:02] Coo. Okay. The emergent circulator designed for use in the home kitchen. Needless to say, I was extremely excited at the prospect of having an affordable low temp cooking solution out in the market. Recently, I was on the poly science website and found out that they now offer also offer a home version called the Creative Series.
+
+[7:16] And it's called like Yeah, it's all like Sous vide, and there's a Sous V creative and the Sous V Professional, and then there's the old metal one, so it's kind of confusing. But go on the website and you look at it. I think it's live on the website. I haven't seen one in real life. Anyway, hold on.
+
+[7:27] So the Namakoo will be a hundred and forty dollars cheaper than the uh Su V creative from Polyscience. Uh the heater in the Namaku is gonna have less wattage, 750 versus uh 1100. Although I really think Phillips is uh a thousand watts. The heater itself is a thousand. I don't think it's eleven hundred, but anyway, whatever.
+
+[7:41] Uh but the pump is uh more powerful uh in the Namakoo, ten liters uh per minute versus six liters per minute. The Namako claims it can actually get water to a hundred degrees C while the creative goes to ninety nine degrees C. I mean that's a meaningless stat though. I mean I wouldn't even pay attention to that. That's a meaningless stat.
+
+[7:56] You know what I'm saying? Mm-hmm. Like, you know, that's you know don't worry about that. Uh you're not gonna want to put these into anything other than water anyway. So the old metal ones with stainless steel.
+
+[8:05] Uh huh, let me finish your question first before I go crazy. Okay. Uh the rest of the specs, as far as I can tell, are about the same. Not sure if you had a chance to play with either, uh perhaps a Namakoo prototype, but I'm hoping you can give us your honest opinion on which one you would get. I'm not planning on getting one until the holidays, so the fact that the Namakoo isn't actually out yet will not affect my purchasing decision.
+
+[8:23] Also, I'm currently a student at the ICC, and I hear you'll be teaching a few classes this month. Is that true? I'm in level six, uh, which is the last level. It's the level that the students cook in the restaurant. So at the school, there's there's six levels.
+
+[8:35] The last two levels uh cook in the restaurant. So the you know, the first two you're kind of learning stuff, the third one more learning stuff. Uh fourth one, you're doing family meal for the whole school, and the five and six you're in the restaurant. Okay. Uh if you're around, I'll be sure to say hi.
+
+[8:48] I'll be the giddy Chinese guy with the sweaty palms. Thanks. Love the show, Ron Fan. So Ron, obviously not a if you have sweaty palms, not a good chocolate worker. Shouldn't work with chocolate.
+
+[8:57] Don't go into pastry, my friend. I mean, I guess you could, but I mean if you have sweaty pomps, it's gonna be difficult working with chocolate and pastry, correct? Yeah. I mean, there are certain people who are it's a known thing. Certain people have warmer palms and they have a very difficult time with things like chocolates.
+
+[9:09] Just a known fact. Anyway. Um, before I even get into this, uh look, We Pop is a friend of mine. I love myself, We Pop, and Philip Preston is a friend of mine, and I've known him for many, many years. Uh, and he's been very supportive.
+
+[9:24] So it's very hard for me to come. I you know, I can't I almost can't come down with any sort of recommendation uh on one versus uh the other because it's just it would be crazy for me. You know what I'm saying? What do you think, Styles? I mean, that's kind of like you know, Philip Preston has been gonna get one in December.
+
+[9:40] He's should be a good one. Which the Philip, the new one? The Namako? In December? Yes.
+
+[9:46] All right, I haven't touched uh I haven't touched the uh the new creative series yet, but I uh sent a note over to Philip and I was like, Philip, what should I know about the creative system uh as opposed to the other one? And his response was is that the this new one, the 499 one, is designed to have uh uh good control, very good temperature control, just like the uh the other one. Uh um have it be quiet, right? So I guess it's quieter for a home kind of situation, so the pump's not as loud, also not as uh not as you know fast, right? Uh less it's uh less demanding use, right?
+
+[10:18] Because it's not meant to run all day every day like ours do, which isn't to say you can't do a 72 hour cook, but you know, the the way these things are treated in professional kitchens is crazy. They're running twenty like almost twenty four seven sometimes. Uh you know, all the time. Uh so the current one's not designed to run all day, every day. It's got a lower cost, uh, you know, 499.
+
+[10:37] So I don't really know actually what the Namaku is coming in at. Is it really $170 dollars cheaper? Is it really $320? I don't know. I don't know.
+
+[10:44] I mean, it's hard to say. Also you never know if it's going to be sold at William Sonoma. What William Sonoma let there's a retail price and then William Sonoma is going to give you a deal or something like that. So it's very hard to say what the price is going to be. The the new poly science is going to have the same safety system as the old one did plus a float uh which I never was a big fan of float uh the float things.
+
+[11:04] People like so the float is basically in there so in case your water runs low the float drops and turns off the circulator. I've never been a giant fan of floats because it just seems like it's another thing that can fail as opposed to having uh the strap on there's a there's a strap on. There's a there's a strap on uh um thermometer, you know a temperature sensor on the heating element itself such that it goes over temp it will shut the equipment off. So I guess Philip uh I guess enough people wanted a float plus that safety system but so he put it in. Um and uh it's gonna it has a smaller pump than the than the $800 one so it's gonna have a reduced capacity.
+
+[11:39] On the note of capacity by the way capacity is one of those things that you can't really ever listen to what anybody says unless they're extremely specific about what they mean by capacity. So your capacity is gonna be limited by the wattage there's two things that limit your capacity one is your ability to circulate water. Uh that is rarely the limit uh except for in very large tanks or in viscous fluids like uh oils which I wouldn't necessarily be circulating with these guys anyway. So the the the pump output is not usually the limit on your capacity. Usually the limit on your capacity is the wattage.
+
+[12:19] Uh and that said, also when you're judging capacity, the question is not how many liters of liquid, it's how many liters of liquid plus plus plus product at what temperature in a vessel with what kind of insulation. So there's there's so many uh there's so many variables, but the the physics are what the physics are, and you can figure out uh how much uh wattage, roughly wattage you need with some back of the envelope calculations. So for me, the main the main thing is when I was talking to Weepop, the the new circulator, uh the Namakoo is uh, you know, it has a smaller capacity and it's designed to have a smaller capacity at 750 watts. And their feeling is is that's enough wattage to get away with most of the things that you're gonna want to do in your house, but they opted to have a more powerful pump. Whereas Philip was like, I don't care about the pump, uh, but I want to keep the same wattage.
+
+[13:10] Because I don't actually know why uh why the Namakoo, why they took the wattage down to 750. Weepop told me once, but I can't remember what what his explanation was because not I mean it could have been uh fitting it into the package because it's a very thin stick package. The Namaku also is very small, right? Yeah. And we haven't played with it yet.
+
+[13:26] I mean, small is good because small means it takes up less space in your bath. Anytime you can take up less space in your bath, it's probably a good thing. Um just because that space you can't be cooking products in. Um so that might be an advantage for the Namaku, but really I hesitate to make any recommendations until I play with them, uh play with both of them. Uh I will say this, uh, it is an extremely exciting time uh to uh be a cook because now almost anyone, you know, look, it's still expensive, you know, even if it's $350.
+
+[13:57] It's not like I'm gonna go out, you know, you're not like you're gonna go out and buy like buy them like their potato chips or pretzels. But it's it's in the realm of things that many, many people buy. I think it's a huge there's a huge price difference between eight hundred bucks and uh four hundred bucks or three hundred and fifty bucks, right? Mm-hmm. Yeah, it's big difference difference.
+
+[14:14] I mean Nastasha might actually consider purchasing one instead of other uh uh yes. I said you might consider actually purchasing one. Yes, yeah, we'll leave it at that. We'll leave it, we'll just we'll just leave it right there. Um that's pretty much I mean that's all there is to say about that, yeah?
+
+[14:35] Yeah. All right. When we get it, we will tell. When we get it, when we get it, we will tell the pros and cons of each. Uh one if you know me, uh my one of the main problems is is uh I'm gonna find it difficult to lie.
+
+[14:49] So, right? I mean, like that's unf you know, it's I I I mean I can lie about many things, but not about recommending equipment. It's just a weird thing. And uh, oh, and I know I'm not teaching a class this week as far as I know I'm doing you're doing CV next week. Souve it intensive?
+
+[15:04] Last week of September. Is that next week? No, two weeks from now. Oh, so I will be in uh I will be doing it my c is the class full? I don't know.
+
+[15:12] I don't know if you want to come here spout off some crazy stuff. It's not actually, it's actually the best course that we've ever taught. I mean, like not the best, but it's good course for people who want to learn low temperature and sous vide. I'm uh I'll put it this way. I'm proud of what we do in the course because we can we can do things that are very difficult for you to do in either a home or a restaurant kitchen just for time and space reasons.
+
+[15:32] Anyway, so I guess we're teaching that in a couple weeks, last week of September. So that's when I'll be in there, Ron. I'll be in tomorrow, but I'll be dealing with the Pepsi people. Okay, should we take a first one? Signing books, yeah.
+
+[15:41] Signing books? What books? Anyway. Coming right back with cooking issues the morning by James. The International Culinary Center is a proud sponsor of the Heritage Radio Network.org.
+
+[17:16] The ICC with locations in New York and California provide cutting edge education to future chefs, restaurateurs, and wine professionals. We're proud to claim Dan Barber, Bobby Clay, and David Chang among our honored alumni. This is Dorothy Cann Hamilton from Chef's Story. Check out our ICC website at International Culinary Center dot com. And welcome back.
+
+[17:42] Okay, we have a question in from Paul who says, uh, for ethical dietary reasons, I've been baking croissant with margarine. They turn out very nice, but I'm wondering if I can get something closer to authentic if I adjust the fat in the uh quote in quotes, because it's not butter, butter block. The two main problems uh I think I face is that one, as far as I can tell, it's impossible to get unsalted margarine. And two, I'm guessing margarine I I am guessing margarine has a higher water content compared to butter. Uh secondary issues could include uh altered melting point, issues with saturated fat or trans fat content, etc.
+
+[18:18] I'm wondering if it might be possible to approximate something closer to unsalted butter in water content and reduce salt levels by making a mixture of margarine and vegetable shortening, or pro or possibly trying to match the water content by evaporating moisture from margarine, but likely increasing the salt levels on a per volume level. If it matters, the dough is relatively wet, uh moderately enriched with a small amount of fat and some sugar, given a very quick mix with low gluten development, but then spends 12 plus hours in the fridge for a rise and a developed gluten and flavor. Any thoughts, thanks, Paul. Okay. So um yeah, here's the thing.
+
+[18:50] First of all, you know, you have to be making sure anyway that you're using a margarine that has uh um that if you if you if you don't want the butter, I'm assuming you don't want any I'm assuming you want vegan, right? That's the assumption. Right. And so uh, you know, there are I'm and I'm therefore I'm sure you're aware of the fact that many margarines contain um milk, um actual milk in the f for flavor in it, milk products in it for flavor. Uh some are artificially butter flavored, and I'm sure you can get just a plastic fat without the flavoring, but blow.
+
+[19:23] Uh right or wrong. Right. Yeah. Uh okay, so here's the thing. Uh I did some preliminary poking around.
+
+[19:29] It's been a long time since I've researched uh margarine because I do eat dairy, and so I'm a margarine, I'm a I'm a I'm a hater. Right? I'm a hater. Uh but the the the key thing, uh I don't know. So uh margarines, I guess, can can have different uh different water levels in it.
+
+[19:49] But the the key thing about a margarine, so butter is what butter is, right? It's uh but it's butter fat, right? From cream. Uh and the recipes that we have are written around the properties of butter. So butter is actually less than ideal for certain things.
+
+[20:07] For instance, if you're gonna do uh if you're gonna do uh puff paste and you keep you have to keep the dough temperatures relatively proper, otherwise the butter gets too hard relative to the dough, right? Because butter isn't necessarily the best uh actual physical form for everything you're gonna do. So when when you make a margarine, you get to choose a lot of the exact properties that make it important for so there's there's table margarines, right? And those are meant to spread uh mostly like butter. And with the the main characteristic that you're looking at, other than like the nowadays they're much better at it, like margarine used to taste really just Christ awful because they couldn't deodorize it properly, and they're just tasted of awfulness.
+
+[20:45] Because the way you make the margarine is you press like any old crud, I mean unless it's specified, but you press any old crud uh and you extract oil from um you extract oil from things like seeds and soybeans, whatever, usually with some crazy solvent, uh, you know, some sort of like light petroleum fraction, which you then get rid of. You're then left with uh oil plus gum and sludge and oil breakdown products, which are uh like one of the things they can do uh with um so if there's too many free fatty acids in there they add uh lye to it and that and that turns it into soap and then they wash the soap away so there's and by the way none of this I'm against I'm not saying I'm against that I'm definitely pro you know that kind of a technique so then they uh they wash away all the impurities and then they de usually deodorize it and when they're gonna make margarine they sometimes do the deodorant deodorant step at the end. So then you're left with these raw inputs that have various different fatty acid profiles and then they hydrogenate them to different levels and different amounts and different ways to obtain um different uh properties of fat. And the most important property of fat other than the taste of it is and and how it crystallizes, how a particular fat crystallizes because that really uh affects its properties quite severely but the the you know the other really important thing is called the uh SFI which is the uh what does it actually stand for? Jeez solid fractions index I think or solids anyway.
+
+[22:09] So what it is is it's it's a a chart and you can see it and it's how much of a given fat is liquid at any given temperature because because the fats are not one unitary uh type of uh thing they don't have a definite melting point right that's why butter gets softer as it gets warmer it doesn't just instantly melt it gets soft it goes from hard to soft to uh melted because there's a range of different uh uh you know compounds in there that have different melting points and so the there's the where that curve the melting curve is and then there's the slope of that curve determines uh over what temperatures fat is is plastic, is is workable. So the good news about margarines uh is that they can choose that exact profile for baking. And the profile they choose for baking is different depending on the application that you're going to use. So they make ones called baker's margarine that are specifically designed to not be too hard so they don't rip through uh layers of your of your product, but also not to melt at all until you are uh baking with them. So uh, you know, and and there's different ones depending on exactly how the dough is supposed to work.
+
+[23:26] So, you know, in the in the very industrial scale, they'll have a different one for a puff pastry than they will for a Danish or for croissant because they work slightly differently. Uh so a lot depends on you the the idea being not to tear the dough when you're when you're rolling it out uh and and what you're looking for. But the most important thing with those margarines is that they not melt out into the dough and cause adhesion of the layers to themselves before they're baked out. Like that's the key thing. So there's that in conjunction with the not ripping.
+
+[23:52] Um water content, I wasn't able to find the app mean so oh, so I looked this morning, trying to find anyone that sold uh these varieties of uh margarines to the public. Like I looked on Amazon for Baker's margarine, and I couldn't find it. I could I Chet Baker, the musician, had a song called Margarine. I was able to find that. You can download that for 99 cents.
+
+[24:16] But I wasn't able to find less than 50 pounds of baker's margarine and no one that kind of sold uh to you know, just to you know normally to us. So if anyone out there knows a source of baker's margarine, um I I'd appreciate it. And so uh if you want me, and they're technically highly superior products. They just, you know, they also add a lot of other stuff like you know like oils and whatnot. Uh I mean, sorry, like uh butter, fake butter flavor and whatnot.
+
+[24:41] Uh now, as for your question, I wasn't able to find the optimum water content uh for uh the margarine. But uh and and there there's a there's a question as to what the optimum water content is in a dough like this, because after all, it's the water vaporizing uh, you know, and and in the thing as it melts that is causing the expansion to break the different flaky sections of the dough apart. Uh in addition to you know, in Croissant, obviously it's also leavened. So uh yes, and I know I've known for years that people want and they love the the low water uh European butters, for instance, like in the supermarket, you can buy plough or this kind of thing. But I never have actually done the test of how important the water content is.
+
+[25:27] I'm loath to suggest adding although you know what? Crisco makes some flaky freaking stuff. Although when I'm making pie crust with uh Crisco, it's a different kind of flaky and there is a lot of fat melting in because I'm not a believer in hyper cold uh everything when you're making pie crust. I follow the kind of Jeffree Steingarden through Marion Cunningham uh pie crust recipe of hand rubbing and not worrying about the temperature too much. And no one complains about my pie crust, but you do get some bleed out of the fat into the into the fat uh into the flour in that.
+
+[25:57] And so and I use lard for that, which you could act, you know, which is actually more when I use lard, it's actually colder because lard's much more difficult to work with than uh shortening is. But when I use Crisco shortening, uh it you know, it it works. So you know what? It might work if you really want to lower the water content, beat some crisco into the margarine, like roll it in, like, you know, whip it and then flatten it and make it into a block. It could work.
+
+[26:18] But I mean uh most margarines, I think, are rocking in around the twenty percent water range in that area, seventeen to 20, and most butters are also in that same range. So I d you know, I doubt you're gonna have uh I doubt, I doubt, I mean, I doubt you that the water is an issue, but maybe it is. Uh what I would recommend is not obviously melting the margarine uh to try and get the water out of it because then you're breaking the emulsion, right? Right, fair. Mm-hmm.
+
+[26:45] Okay. Uh what do you think? Is that a valid answer? Yes. Did I give anything of use?
+
+[26:49] I sometimes I can't tell whether I've said any freaking thing useful at all. I just can't tell. Uh okay. Uh Michael from Oakland writes in again, and now like making and now I feel bad. He's like, hey guys, welcome back from uh Columbia.
+
+[27:02] Following up on the Lucama question from a few weeks ago. Again, I make a cocktail with Lucama, was looking for an easier to locate substitute, something I could find in a local market, specialty market, or Latin market. You asked me to tell you whether I was concerned with taste or feel or something else. It's the taste I care about. Thanks for looking into this.
+
+[27:16] And so I don't have a decent. I don't have a does anyone out there, please help us out. Help us out. Get us a good source of Leucoma andor Lucama substitute. Because the closest thing I have is canistel.
+
+[27:30] Because I never actually worked with Leucima directly. I work with canistel. Delicious, right? That's good product. Yeah.
+
+[27:37] Uh so I've never uh had to source it. So someone help me out. Uh help us out. Help us out with that. Let's go to our second commercial break cooking issues.
+
+[28:00] This one's called the paper jam. Erotic. But erotic. But erotic. But erotic but erotic but erotic but erotic erotic erotic got Stitcher?
+
+[29:18] Heritage Radio Network is on it, so get it. Stitcher is an award-winning provider of news and talk radio for your mobile phone. Stitcher Smart Radio, the smarter way to listen to radio. Are we back? We're back with cooking issues.
+
+[29:32] Um Joe, do you remember did we answer the question about raw milk safety last week? Or two weeks ago? Oh man, check that out. I'm gonna I'm gonna answer another question in the meantime. Uh greetings, Nastasha Jave, that's me.
+
+[29:46] Uh, Jack and Joe. Uh, from Kevin Scott in San Jose. By the way, San Jose visited San Jose where our other the sister school is for the ICC. And you it is almost impossible to find anything to freaking eat in San Jose after midnight. You know what I'm saying?
+
+[30:03] You ever mean do you ever go hang out in San Jose? No, you're a you're a Southern California. But my college was near there. It's in Stanford. How close is that to San Jose?
+
+[30:11] Pretty close. Closer than San Francisco. Really? Yeah. But no, I never ate there.
+
+[30:15] Yeah. Anyway, apparently, like somewhere there's like the late night taco stands that are supposed to be good, but no no one could point us out. They're like, man, yeah. So, you know, I was starving one night in San Jose. So, Kevin, if you can hook us up with the next time I'm in San Jose where I should get good food after midnight, I would appreciate it.
+
+[30:34] Because the sit there's like eight billion people in San Jose, right? It's like a giant freaking city. It's huge. Huge. Huge.
+
+[30:40] Okay. So there's gotta be good late night eats since it's not possible for there not to be. Anyway, uh Kevin writes, I'm thinking about buying a new three-liter uh tabletop centrifuge for random mad science food hackery. What should I be looking for? Refrigerated or not?
+
+[30:55] Any manufacturers to avoid? Swinging bucket or fixed rotor. I'd like to be able to try out things like making nut and vegetable butters, tomato water, and clarifying stocks and juices. Our tabletop model is going to have enough oomph to handle this range of things. And while I'm asking questions, have you ever experimented with meat stock clarification in a centrifuge?
+
+[31:12] I can imagine being able to get a beautifully clear stock, but is there flavor loss? I don't know if you uh I don't uh if you don't know, I can do that experiment myself once I've acquired my centrifuge. Okay. What should you be looking for? Refrigeration is nice.
+
+[31:25] Um I I mean I love having refrigerator on my centrifuge, but that said, and there are some products that it's very it's very helpful to have, but it it adds a l it obviously that you need more power and it's a lot more space and the unit is a lot heavier. Uh so if you know if you don't need the refrigeration, if you don't want it, um you can get a much more compact system without refrigeration. So and there are ways to get around the refrigeration. For instance, uh putting your buckets in the freezer before you load them so that they're cold, um the x XY XYZ. The your product does heat up quite a bit uh in a centrifuge as it's spinning, and it's because of the incredible friction um that's just generated by the by the you know this thing spinning around in the air.
+
+[32:16] It gets quite warm. So we're talking the product that goes in pretty close to room temperature can come out at body temperature, really at the end of like a 15 minute spin or something like that. So if you have a product that you um where the temperature is critical, for instance, butter or spinning cream uh in into this kind of butter mass, which is something that Wiley does at the WD-50 or has done, um, then uh refrigeration is probably a good idea. Another thing is because of the immense friction, uh centrifuge can chill very, very rapidly. So one of the advantages that I think of having a refrigerated unit is um you know, we'll do juices when we're doing juices.
+
+[32:54] I usually blend uh you know whatever fruit it is in a vita prep along with the enzyme until it's slightly above water water uh the body temperature. That means the enzyme works almost instantaneously and we can spin right away. I don't have to wait for the enzyme to break down stuff at lower refrige temperatures. Now, if you have a refrigerated centrifuge, um it chills that product as it's spinning extremely rapidly down to refrigerator temperatures just because there's such good uh heat transfer because of the immense amount of uh of uh airflow that you're getting across the uh buckets when you're when you're spinning. So refrigeration, if you can afford it in terms of space and in terms of money, then um I would get it.
+
+[33:37] I mean, that's that's that. Um whether or not any manufacturers to avoid, I really only have experience uh with uh Sorval, larger Sorval units, and with uh what was that Japanese one? Do you remember the name of that? That thing was awesome. No, I don't know.
+
+[33:53] That thing was amazing. I love that thing. I know that thing was awesome. Uh or uh and the the one in Japan, which I can't even remember, was a Japanese manufacturer, and I don't think it's shipped here to the US. But the awesome thing about that, other than the fact that it was awesome, it was very compact, right?
+
+[34:08] It had a plexi top, and there's some American there's some manufacturers here that are uh I forget who like CentriVap, I kind of forget who makes those, but uh there's a couple manufacturers with plexi tops, and they're kind of fun because you can get a uh uh a strobe tack and shoot on the thing and then you know see the product as it's clarifying. It's not really necessary, but it is fun. But the awesome thing about that Japanese one was that the it the buckets, the aluminum buckets had stainless steel thin inserts that went into it that you could just use over and over, and they're just really nice unit. And really quiet, smooth. Anyway, so I'm most of my experience has been with Juans.
+
+[34:44] Uh and the Juan is nice, is a nice unit, but it's they're older because the company's out of business. It was bought by Thermo, which makes still makes a lot of centrifuges, and then uh and then the company was retired, the brand name was retired. Uh Wiley uses a headache. Uh he seems to enjoy that. And uh I think Tony uh Corneliaro in uh England also uses a head itch and he likes it.
+
+[35:07] Uh I think Hedich is out of Germany. Uh but you know, all these guys, uh here's what I would I would say. Uh I wouldn't avoid a manufacturer uh in a in a new centrifuge. I would avoid certain types. So um I don't think you need uh as I look here here's the other thing.
+
+[35:25] So the question is fixed rotor versus uh swinging bucket. Fixed rotor is going to be better for uh things like pea butter uh and and whatnot just because of the way layers are formed in a fixed uh angle rotor. Uh however, uh you know, most of the fixed angle rotors, you first of all you can put a fixed angle rotor into a three-liter bench top thing, but you're not gonna get three liters out of it. You're gonna get a much smaller yield. And to buy a unit that can do three liters that's fixed rotor is gonna be a much, much larger unit, and you're talking a lot more money.
+
+[36:01] For bang for buck and most uh useful all around, uh go with the swinging bucket rotors because that's the clarification machine. It works fine on uh nut butters. Uh we've d how you know how many how many you know things of nut butter have we done in uh in a like countless? Countless. Too many.
+
+[36:20] Too many. Uh nut milks, uh things of that nature. Uh I've never actually done the pea butter recipe, but I think that that uh when Maxime Billet came to the school, he did it in our centrifuge and it seemed to work fine. Um but the fixed angle rotors are good for certain they're good they're good for certain things. Uh and I do do some fixed angle work.
+
+[36:38] Again, like m all of my recipes that I work with are built around that centrifuge and around its capabilities. So I spend most of my time thinking of recipes uh that uh that fit within those parameters. So there's many things I'm sure that you can do that you know you can't. Now on stock, um I've never clarified uh stock in uh in regular stock in a centrifuge, and I'm assuming that to do it you're gonna require a lot of G's unless you do things like break down the gelatin in it or add other fining agents to it. And then I'm assuming you'll be able to do it.
+
+[37:13] But your question is is that you're not sure if there's gonna be flavor loss. There is always flavor loss in a clarification step. Let me be clear on this. There is always, always a flavor loss in a clarification step. The centrifuge by far is the least uh impactive uh technique to clarify that I've ever used.
+
+[37:34] So um, you know, agar clarification strips out certain things, and uh centrifuge strips out certain things, but things like agar and gel and clarification strip out a lot more, egg whites strip out a lot more. Uh and how you clarify also uh determines how much is is uh stripped out. So I mean, even within the something like the centrifuge is is what I mean to say. So for I'll give you the for instance. Uh we do gin and juice is one of the recipes we do at the bar, and uh we clarify I used to clarify grapefruit juice using freeze thaw with agar.
+
+[38:06] So you you know you you use two grams per liter of grapefruit juice, you set a light agar gel, you freeze it for you know tart overnight, and then you let it thaw into big pants. And so, you know, we used to do you know uh leaders and liters and liters. Like remember that time we did like for for the MOMA? We did a party for like 1500 or more people at the MoMA, and we it was just like gallons and gallons. We filled all we took every hotel pan in the school and filled it with frozen grapefruit juice.
+
+[38:32] And max ans, remember that? Yeah, we speak some right. Yeah, and your yield is lower, but the grapefruit juice you get from that technique, uh, freeze thaw is extremely clean and sweet because uh a lot of the the the bitterness of the grapefruit is stripped out, which is I guess Noring. And it's stripped out uh in the agar clarification process. So when you use when you make gin and juice using agar clarification, freeze thaw or quick, you do not need to add any simple syrup at all to the recipe.
+
+[39:03] Okay. When you do uh centrifugal clarification on grapefruit juice, where we use an enzyme to break down the pectin, and then uh some very light fining agents, kiesel salt, and chitosan, which are designed for wine clarification, uh, more of that inherent bitterness remains. Some of it's still stripped, it doesn't taste like fresh grapefruit, you know, like like you know, whole grapefruit juice, but it uh much more remains such that I do have to add a small amount of simple syrup to that recipe to get it to work. Uh and so, yes, there is a stripping of flavor. Sometimes that stripping of flavor is good.
+
+[39:35] For instance, I wouldn't want the full bitterness of grapefruit juice in my gin and juice because I think it would be overpowering with the gin and with the carbonation because we carbonate it all. So uh there's always uh flavors that are removed. Sometimes it's a good thing, sometimes it's a bad thing. Um with the stock, you know, uh whenever I clarify stock, I usually I'm doing a bunch, and so I do regular freeze thaw clarification on stock, just water it down so there's not too much gelatin in there. But you like I say, you could use a fining agent in in uh in conjunction with uh an enzyme called Coralase, which breaks down uh Coralase breaks down uh gelatin.
+
+[40:10] The problem with uh you and we've done tests of breaking down the gelatin using just uh meat, meat, you know, protease stuffs, basically, you know, papayene and other things that you can get as meat tenderizers. Uh the problem being that when proteins are broken down into very small fragments, uh, some of those fragments can turn bitter and unpleasant, the small polypeptides. And coralase is an enzyme that's designed specifically to break down gelatin into flavorless uh polypeptides. So it breaks them down in such a way that they don't cause bitter and off-flavors. And that stuff is freaking amazing.
+
+[40:43] Unfortunately, like you take jellied stock, hardcore jellied stock, you add a couple of drops of coralase, and the thing melts out. Just melts, it just melts, even if it's cold, boop, gone. And then you can reduce stock. We've done ridiculous things like take a gallon of stock and taking it down to you know, like just like uh almost until it's solid and it doesn't set when it cools off. So we use that for like these incredibly intense kind of beef uh stock uh things.
+
+[41:09] It's amazing. But anyway, I would get a hold of Coral Ace, except for I have not been able to. So if Chris uh you know if Chris at Monitors Pantry can get his hands on some coralase enzyme, I would buy the hell out of that. We met him. Yeah, we did.
+
+[41:21] We met him uh what was it again? Sunday, Saturday. Oh, yeah, we did the Heritage Radio. Have we talked about that yet? Sort of.
+
+[41:26] Sort of here, you think about what to say about that because I think I got one more question I got to hit before we before we get kicked out of here. Uh, and here it is. Confused in Houston. Co. Confused in Houston Miles writes in uh dear uh Nastasha, Dave, Jack, and Joe.
+
+[41:40] I've been researching hydrocolloids. You know? I've been researching hydrocolloids and in particular methylcellulose. Since there are a bunch of different kinds of this stuff, how can one tell which is right for a particular purpose? For example, if I wanted to make a hot melting jelly, which type of methyl cellulose would I use?
+
+[42:01] And what about for stabilizing a foam? Thanks in advance. Okay. This is a great this is a great thing, and uh uh uh a great question. And a lot a lot of this goes back to uh some original problems I had with uh recipes uh printed online uh and also with uh Faron's Texturas line.
+
+[42:21] Now the products in Texturas they're all they're all good products, they're all high quality products, you know. Uh but the problem is is that they don't necessarily tell you what's in them. So for instance, in Ferron's methyl, uh in Ferran's uh gel an it's just called gel an. It it's not just gel an, it's a mixture of two different kinds of gel an, high acyl gel N and low acyl gel an. That's I guess some sort of compromise that you can use to make fluid gels, but also uh has a somewhat gelatin characteristic when it's used as a gel in its own right.
+
+[42:50] Uh and I'm pretty sure uh it's been a billion years since I've used his gel an, but I think it's basically uh 25% of the uh high acyl gel an, which is the stretchy weird one, and 75% of the low acyl, which is the brittle clear, you know, one that's good for fluid gels. So on methyl cell, uh, I used to know it one time and I've forgotten what is the what they're actually using in that. Now uh there are many different producers of methylcellulose. Methylcellulose is uh one of the few unnatural hydrocolloids that we use, and by that I mean the methylcellulose does not occur in nature, it's a it's a derived product from uh cellulose, uh, you know, from like you know, manufacture of cotton and things like this. And um, so they're not naturally occurring, but they're not that doesn't make them evil, it just means they don't occur in nature.
+
+[43:39] Um but there are a zillion different kinds. There's straight methyl cellulose, there's hydroxyprobe methylcellulose, there's there's a there's a bunch of different ones. Uh the ones that, and there are several manufacturers of it, the ones that I use and have used are manufactured by DAO. And DAO, DAO's brand name is Methocell, right? Yeah, M-E-T-H-O, I can't spell that out.
+
+[44:02] S-E-S-C-E-L, Methocell. And they those are the ones that most chefs write their recipes around. Dow Methocell. The good thing about Dow is that Dow has online, or at least used to, and if they don't, I can email or put on my thing, uh, a bunch of uh uh technical documents on exactly what they all do. Uh so any recipe that you get, you should try to convert it into the type of methyl cell that you want.
+
+[44:29] The interesting property that you allude to with uh methell that it has is that it's one of the very few things that as it's heated becomes a gel. Gels as it's heated and melts as it's cooled. This has led to a lot of people, including Wiley and Ideas in Food, and you know, Nicholas Curti would have if he hadn't died before he figured out what methell was, try and make things like hot ice cream, things that uh things that uh are solid when they're hot, and then you put it in your mouth and it melts. Kind of an inverse thing of ice cream. The problem is I think it's a fundamentally flawed idea making hot ice cream because like I can go into it later.
+
+[45:01] I don't have time to go into why I think hot ice cream is a fundamentally flawed idea. But uh, so it's very interesting product because of this way that it sets as it's heated, and it's because it becomes less soluble as it's heated, drops partially out of solution and forms a gel. Uh now, there's wide variety of uh ones in the methyl cell line, and not all of them form good gels, but they're arranged in the order of how they gel. So the mo the hardest gelling one, but it actually you know squeezes out a lot of water, is uh the S G series. And those are stands for super gelling, and those hard gelling ones also gel at the lowest temperature.
+
+[45:36] The next series up, and it's very, very, you know, you know, not that hot, like a like 120 Fahrenheit or something like that, starts gelling. I forget the actual numbers. Uh the next is the A series. So those are the two ones that are mainly used for gels in things like noodles that set when you squeeze them into broths and all those things. That's what those things, those things excel at that kind of um application.
+
+[45:57] And they're used for that. The uh other series, uh I I don't really use the K series that much, but it's a higher thing. The series other series that I use, the E series was discontinued. The E series is good at film forming, and so people are making crackers and biscuits out of them. Although I don't particularly like Methell E series.
+
+[46:13] Uh, but the one that uh I use the most is the F series, and that's the one that you use for meringues and for whipping. So that's the one that's a good whipping agent. Okay. So the SG and the A series are the ones that you use for gelling, and the F series is the one that you use for uh like those meringues that you dehydrate and and they stay nicely. The other thing to worry about on methacel, Dow bran methell, is the uh number that is after it.
+
+[46:38] So there's F50, for instance, is the one that you want to use for uh whipping things. The F50 is, and all of the numbers after a methyl cell are uh a measure of the viscosity of the product as it's made. So 50 is it's in almost in arbitrary units, but it's a certain concentration of methyl cell, has 50 times the viscosity of water at a certain concentration, blah blah blah. Okay. So there's F50, uh, but there's for instance, you can get one like SG 16M, right?
+
+[47:07] And here's what's freaking confusing, and I'll leave you guys with this because they're gonna kick us off the sh off the air in a second. But here's what's confusing they use a sun combination of Arabic and Roman freaking numerals, right? So SG 16M, right, is actually uh an SG super gel with a viscosity of sixteen thousand because the M stands for thousand in uh in Roman numerals. They also have some C ones uh that are like seven hundred, and so it's very confusing unless you just remember you gotta choose the series you want, and then after you choose the series you want, you gotta choose uh the viscosity that you want it to be. And the viscosity is gonna determine also how hard the gel is gonna be at the end, because it's probably a longer uh they're probably longer you know units, so they're probably a harder gel, and also the viscosity of the stuff as you're as you're working.
+
+[47:53] I hope that helps! Cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio.
+
+[48:20] You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening. Get it straight.
+
+[48:36] Vicious Vicious Fat. Oh, you dare
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Fairway Market, like no other market, a New York City institution that sells the best local, national, and international artisan foods for prices that can't be beat. For more information, visit fairway market.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. I'll see you in my dreams.
+
+[0:39] Jack, is that our new is that us now? No, that's not. That's plexiponic. But you know, we uh at Heritage Radio here, we're going all original, all licensed music. So the cooking issues theme is no longer so okay, so like no longer as of now.
+
+[0:55] No longer as of now. So basically okay, so for those of you that don't know how this works, right? Uh as with all other things in life, theoretically, if you use uh on the air in some sort of a program a song, you are supposed to pay for it. Right? You're supposed to pay what is it, BMI or Ass Cap, whatever it is, right?
+
+[1:12] Right, Jack? And we decided we didn't want to do that because we're nonprofit. We got we got no cash. Yeah. All right.
+
+[1:21] So now that I know that we're on the air. Hello, and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Aron, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live. A little bit late today. From the back of Roberta's uh even later than normal, actually.
+
+[1:30] Yeah. From the back of Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn here in the studio with Nastog Lopez and Jack Inslee, our intrepid engineer. And uh what what is your title over there at the radio? Grand Vizier. Uh that's a cool title.
+
+[1:43] Executive producer. Executive producer. Do you know what by the way? Everyone wants to know what Nastash's title is with the organization, and by the way, no one even knows what the organization means. No one knows what company we're talking about.
+
+[1:55] Uh or what what the hell we're talking about. Cooking issues not really a business, right, Saz? Right. Right. So it's hard to have a title there, but you have one.
+
+[1:59] She has the same title across anything she works for. And basically, uh, you can treat her however you want so long as her title is air parent. Yeah, well, uh, you know, I don't really know what like uh I said when she said this is what she wanted her title to be, and that was you know her only condition for working, really, strangely enough. I was like, uh I said, well, uh like air apparent to what? She's like, nah, that doesn't matter.
+
+[2:28] Doesn't matter. Right, Stuzz? Yeah, true, true story. Okay, calling your questions live to 718497-2128. That's 7184972128.
+
+[2:38] So anyway, just got back from London. Merry old, merry old England action, right? Uh, where uh I was with Harold McGee. We were at uh we were at the kind of the bar this year's, you know, I guess last year or the year, two years ago, whatever it was, the bar wedding of the of the century was uh was Audrey Saunders of of Pegu and Robert Hess of you know he writes about uh you know bars and you know bar kind of master writer thinker. Uh Cocktail Boy, I think is his uh blog, right?
+
+[3:07] That's the name of his blog. I don't know. Anyways, so that was the the wedding of the uh the bar wedding of the century. This year's well, the the the American Bar Wedding of the Century, and this one is uh you know, Rhea, formerly of Pernault Ricard and good friend, and uh Tony Connollyaro of 69 Colebrook Row and Zetter Townhouse in uh in the London there. Some of my favorite bars in the in the world.
+
+[3:25] So we went over, I should say we. I went over, and Harold McGee also went over, and Nastasha was like, no crap on that. And uh invited. Okay, I don't know. I don't know, I don't know.
+
+[3:34] What do I know? Anyway, uh went over to London for the wedding, uh, but the wedding wasn't in London, it was in the Cotswolds, which was beautiful. But uh, in order to write off the entire trip, uh Harold McGee, yeah, you know what he could do. Harold McGee and I went to the Brogdale collection again in Kent Favisham, which is, uh, for those of you that don't know, where uh the United Kingdom stores all of its fruit. Now, did I mention this on the last show that I was gonna go there?
+
+[3:59] Yeah. Did I talk about it in general? Uh just a quick quick refresher. Quick refresher. So when you're storing fruit, you store it in the form of a tree, right?
+
+[4:06] And so you go there and they actually have all the trees. Now, if you go to the United States' fruit repositories, which run by the good old uh it's a kind of a governmental plus university effort, right? So our apples are run uh in you know in conjunction between Cornell University and United States government, and uh pears and small fruits are in Corvallis, where I'm we're gonna go to are you going to that, Stas or no? No, Tristan is. Oh, to Portland Cocktail Week.
+
+[4:28] I hope to go to Corvalis, which is where the other ones are stored. So here's what I've learned about uh American fruit collections. They really don't care. They don't care. Like no one goes there to visit it, right?
+
+[4:38] And you can go in there and go absolutely nutty ape crap uh on the trees and eat as much fruit as you want with almost no supervision. This is what I found. Um whereas in the Brogdale, which is in Kent, it's not the case. They they they don't let you just go go crazy. Now, Nastash and I, was it two years ago?
+
+[4:58] We went and we went like we went nutty box in the in the orchards and we were able to eat whatever we want, and no one gave us any sort of guff because there was literally nobody there. This year it was pretty hardcore, and we had to sneak around and we got kicked out of the orchards like three times. Oh my god. Yeah. Here's another thing, sad to say for all of you English folk out there.
+
+[5:17] Uh, this is like, and I asked some fruit growers there. This is the worst season for taste for uh uh British apples and and whatnot in in many, many, many years because they had not enough sunlight and more than usual uh less than average sun, more than more than usual rain. And the apples just stars were not they just weren't bueno. I tasted a bunch this listen, I love the Brogdales, no offense to the Brogdale, but the apples just were no love, right? And I had apples, I tasted apples that I knew exactly what they tasted like, American apples, plus English apples that I knew what they tasted like.
+
+[5:51] So coxes, I tasted a cocks, empires, all these other things. None of them good. I also learned something else. The English prefer their fruit a little more sour than we do. Sour.
+
+[6:01] There was a speaking of sour, there was like I there's no way she she doesn't know anything, so she's not listening, but there's this woman on the tour with us, right? Because I had to take this tour to get out there, so we had to sit around. All these people, they care about stuff that Harold and I really just don't care about. Like the value of the trees as trees. Harold and I look look, this is an apple tree.
+
+[6:20] This is a pear tree. Its value lies in the fruit, in the fruit, the fruit. And then they're all like, the whole cultural blah blah blah blah blah blah. Like Nastasha hates this kind of talk. Some people care about that.
+
+[6:32] But why would you care about that? It's the fruit. In other words, if an apple tree looked like a cup of water and yet it made delicious apples, wouldn't you be like, apples? No. She's talking about the value of the tree that produces the fruit that's so delicious, right?
+
+[6:47] No, she didn't care about the deliciousness. First of all, the lady had no taste. I sir I I picked an apple off of a tree that was so horribly underripe it tasted like you were sucking on raw starch. And uh, because apples before they're ripe, they taste very starchy. Uh, and they're usually very acidic and they have very little roundness.
+
+[7:04] So this was ba this tasted of starch and malic acid and nothing else. And it was overly hard and you know, like kind of teeth breaking as you chew into it. She loved it. She's like, this would be fantastic with the fine cheese. And I was like, I was like, this lady has to be an anomaly.
+
+[7:18] And then I asked around, they're like, no, man. No, man. Crazy depressing. Anyway, call her. You're on the air.
+
+[7:25] Hey, Dave, this is Johnny from Memphis again. How you doing? Doing all right. How you doing? Doing good.
+
+[7:31] Thanks for the uh info on the suckling pig a few weeks ago. It turned out good. It did, it turned out well? Turned out good. I'm happy.
+
+[7:40] I got another question for you. All right. I know that you don't need to uh see salt uh like a pork butt or brine a pork butt before you souveed it. Right. And if I was gonna uh like open it up like a book and put uh herbs like porchata style and then roll it up and sous vate it, I wouldn't need to brine it, right?
+
+[8:05] Okay, so there's there's two ways to think about it. You don't need to so brining does two things, three things really. It it uh it alters the protein so that they're less apt to get overcooked, right? And that's the reason why a lot of people do it when they're doing traditional cooking, right? It also um, and that you don't need to do for sous vide, it's not necessary.
+
+[8:28] Two, they do it to flavor the meat, right? And so for the flavor, you know, that's still necessary if that's the flavor you want. But three, it also tends to firm up the meat a little bit and make it taste less like fresh meat, and that's okay in like a chicken, not okay in a piece of steak, and then it's up to you in a piece of pork whether that's okay or not. You know what I mean? Yeah, what quality of pork.
+
+[8:59] If I have been trouble uh making like a roulage style um that uh put some transglutaminase on it. Yep. And I know it likes gelatin. And if I make the roulade, souve it, and then want to crisp the outside. Um maybe I should use water and like uh pesto spread instead of oil.
+
+[9:27] Is that making it come apart the oil you think? Uh okay, so I mean, any time that there is uh oil in between I mean here here's the thing. Some oil, I wouldn't go water-based, it's just gonna leak everywhere. I think the oil's not gonna be too much of a problem. As long as there is some meat to meat contact, it's not gonna be a problem.
+
+[9:46] You what which transglutaminates are you using? Uh either one, I'm adding gelatin if I'm using the RM, uh the couple of sheets. Um I use a GS, whichever. Yeah, you shouldn't need to. I mean, the RM has the casein as a binder.
+
+[10:05] You shouldn't need to to um to add it. Um if you were if you if it wasn't sticking, I guess you could add some, or the, you know, uh, I mean, I would I would keep it if you if you want to brine it beforehand, I would you could just let it brine itself basic, salt it, you know what I mean? Then add the transglutaminase as a powder. I wouldn't wouldn't go crazy on it. And uh then the question, was it gonna is it gonna what's gonna happen if you put pusto on it?
+
+[10:30] You need meat to meat contact. Do you know what I mean? You need the meat to meet contact. You could make a j you could make a gelatin, uh you could make a gelatin water herb slurry, and that sucker would glue up. You know what I'm saying?
+
+[10:47] Uh put up dissolve the transglutaminase into that and put it in the cryo bag, get the air out. Uh I would make the slurry with the gelatin. Uh let it, you know, cool down till it's not set, but you know, like maybe starting to get thick. Whisk the transglutaminase into it, and then spread it on the thing and roll quick. Okay.
+
+[11:11] That's what I would do. All right. I'll pretty sure it's just all right. Let us know uh let us know how it goes. I will.
+
+[11:19] All right. All right, thanks a lot. Bye. So, Stas, I didn't come across as too harsh on the on the on the Brits. It was just a bad year for them, right?
+
+[11:26] No, you were wonderful too. Yeah, yeah. Anyway, okay. I like how the Stas just lies, so I get off her back. You were wonderful.
+
+[11:34] You want to hear it. No, I don't want to hear it. I want to know exactly what happened. Anyways. Uh okay, got a question in from Philip Lamont.
+
+[11:43] Hello, Nastasha and Dave. Uh, just saw your lecture at Harvard and loved it. Nice, thank you. Which but they only published the one that we did together, right? I think the one I did for the students was actually stronger because it was just about it was focused more on the students, so it was about the science and and what was going on, you know.
+
+[12:00] Um Phillips question. I have a small question about chlorophyll. I've been making an herb mayonnaise lately, and I can't get it to stay green longer than one night. Uh I make an herb puree by blanching the herbs in salted water and icing uh to keep them cold. I blend those herbs in an ice blender with just enough cold oil.
+
+[12:19] After blending, I add lemon juice or ascorbic acid. Uh then I add this to mayo via a RoboCoupe, uh, which the uh subsequent mayo is made in. It is nice green, but not for long. M I just screwed? Hmm.
+
+[12:31] It's an interesting question. I've never uh I've never I haven't done enough tests with it to know 100%, but uh just kind of off the top of my head, and I went back and looked at some of the books that I uh that I uh uh you know that I love uh to see what their recommendations were. Now, you specifically want an herb mayonnaise, i.e. you want the flavor of the herb in it and not just an a green uh mayonnaise, right? So what's most likely happening is uh, you know, as most people know, there is a um there are uh there's an enzyme in in in herbs and many plants called uh I forget what they're called, like polyphenol oxidases, I think is what they're called.
+
+[13:10] Uh and they uh when you break herbs or leaves or anything like that, apples, uh you release those enzymes that are otherwise locked up such that they can interact with uh the rest of the uh the juices from the cell, right? Some of those uh things are are phenols that get um altered by the enzyme and then can kind of stick together and form colored particles, right? Uh and so that that's what's happening. Now, you you're there's a couple of things that inhibit those enzymes. One are antioxidants, so ascorbic acid, so that's that's good.
+
+[13:46] And two is heat. So uh if you heat an herb, blanch it as you're doing in salted and blanching in salted water, by the way, is a good idea because it means you're gonna leak less of the color uh and stuff out out of the herb. So blanching in salted water, very good. Uh uh putting it into uh cold water to stop uh heating, which was actually break down the chlorophyll, which is a separate problem of browning. That's what happens when you overcook the vegetables, right?
+
+[14:12] And then having ascorbic acid. These are all the things that um that I I would do. Uh so but let's take a look uh specifically at what you say here. You you blanch the stuff in salted water and then ice it, and then blend those uh in an ice blender with uh cold oil. I don't think you really need to worry about the coldness of the oil, and you don't need to worry about icing the blender.
+
+[14:33] Okay. Uh you're blending it with the oil there, I guess, to get the water oil stuff right so that when you add it to the mayonnaise, it's not going to break the emulsion. And that seems fine, I guess. Um lemon juice or ascorbic acid that you that you add afterwards, also fine. Um then add to the mayo via a RoboCoup.
+
+[14:53] Here's what I would say. I wouldn't bother with the uh with the cold necessarily making it cold or icing the blender. Make sure you squeeze out the herbs after you blanch them to get rid of uh any any of the stuff that's in them. I would take out stems, um I would take out the stems, but I would also maybe use a different a different method. So you should go read, you should find, buy, go to bookfinder.com and get the out-of-print book uh from Harold McGee, The Curious Cook, which I keep telling him he has to bring back into uh circulation.
+
+[15:23] And he goes through an entire section in that book about um keeping things green and all the various different interesting ways he's trying to keep pesto and things, which is a similar problem, green. Uh so I I definitely recommend um I definitely recommend reading that. But uh here's how I would probably do it. Uh if I was gonna use your technique, I would blanch in uh water, uh, then I would in this cold, you know, in the in the in the salted water, very salted water, uh pull it out, sh shock it, squeeze it to get all of the stuff out, then directly blend that without uh added oil with ascorbic acid right away. Boom.
+
+[15:59] Then uh after you do that, I would add, if you wanted to, I would just start beating that into uh mayonnaise and then adding more oil as necessary to get the consistency back. I mean that that's that's what I would do. But I also I think one of your problems is is that you are uh adding the solids, and it might be the solids in there that are causing the problem. Because when I looked at one of my favorite all-time uh cookbooks, which is James Peterson's Sauces, which is a very you know, an early 90s classic, it's 1991 it came out, and it's one of my treasured books. And you know, one of the sad things about um cookbooks and cooking, you know, cook cookbook and and thinking about books is there's lots of books, especially from that era before cooking was wildly popular among uh a bunch of people that have just fallen by the wayside and aren't read enough.
+
+[16:53] So, you know, uh some of Bill Neal's old Southern cookbooks are s are some of those books that aren't read enough these days. And you know, James Peterson obviously is still famous, but I don't hear as many people talking about his sauces book, which I think is a classic uh as you know as much as they used to. Now, when you do read the book, by the way, and I recommend you go get in the book, uh, uh you do see some of the the some of the that time in it. So at that time, reduced cream sauces were extremely popular, and so there's a lot of reduced cream sauces in that book that you wouldn't necessarily see on a menu these days. But you just gotta, you know, you whenever you read a uh a really good book like that, you have to filter it through uh the lens of the time in which in which it was written.
+
+[17:35] Anyway, so I looked at what uh he had to say uh about it, and you know, he calls it uh by its French name uh sauce vert, green mayonnaise and the way he makes it is to actually make a chlorophyll juice I'll just read you uh what he says uh sauce vert green mayonnaise this mayonnaise tastes the same as basic unflavored mayonnaise because of the way he makes it uh only the color is different uh stir one half of a teaspoon three grams of chlorophyll into one cup of mayonnaise uh and to extract the chlorophyll from spinach leaves see uh chapter 15 uh butter sauces and chlorophyll butter and whatnot don't worry I have that for you so I can read you that as well uh if I can get my iPad to stop uh rotating on me uh which I did test I test that I test it's why I want it to stay where I want it okay um okay um okay uh then uh so that's what that's what he says you add the chlorophyll and I'll talk about that in a second he says mayonnaise can also be colored directly with the juice from spinach watercress or parsley now here's the technique that's going to be important to you because I think this is how you should do it. Uh blanch the greens in a large pot of rapidly boiling salted water. Quickly rinse the greens in cold water pat dry and finally grind in a blender or food processor. Place the puree greens in the middle of the kitchen towel and here's where he's doing something different from you and tightly wring the juice out into a bowl. This juice can then be used for coloring the mayonnaise.
+
+[18:56] The puree can be combined directly with the mayonnaise and the sauce strained. So and this think about this this is the way that we make parsley oil right even if you weren't to follow his directions in blanching you can you can blanch in quotes um you can blanch herbs directly in oil right so you could take your oil you could heat the oil uh with the herbs in it enough to kill the enzymes that are in the oil without ever putting it in the water. Then blend it and then strain out the particles. And that's how we make things like parsley oil and herb oil. So I would do that instead.
+
+[19:29] I think it's the solids that you're dealing with, and you could also get rid of the water blanching step. The only issue here is you're gonna have to sprinkle a little extra ascorbic acid into the mayonnaise as it's being made, which should dissolve into the water phase and have it be fine. But I think that is the key there is that you're getting rid of the solids and using the juice from it, right? And the thing he's not saying is that you can blanch the uh uh the herbs directly in oil so long as you're careful. You don't want them to br uh to brown.
+
+[19:55] You want the temperature to stay uh below right around or below the uh the boiling point of water. And you can see the bubbles coming up from the herbs, and you know when to kind of like mellow it out to stop it from getting too uh browned. Uh so for completeness sake, uh his recipe for chlorophyll butter, uh chlorophyll butter. This butter is good to have on hand for coloring uh hot sauces green. Uh plain chlorophyll can be used for cold sauces.
+
+[20:20] Uh first prepare one ounce of chlorophyll. To do this, grind one pound or 500 grams of raw spinach leaves with one half to one cup of water in a blender or food processor. Pour the green paste in the center of a clean kitchen towel and twist it to extract the green liquid. Gently heat the green liquid in a saucepan until it coagulates. Strain the liquid through a strainer, line with a wet towel.
+
+[20:38] So you gotta do that quickly before it turns brown. And then gently scrape the chlorophyll away from the inside of the towel with a spoon or a metal spatula. Chlorophyll can be uh stored in the refrigerator covered with a thin coating of oil. Right? So there you go.
+
+[20:50] And to prepare chlorophyll butter, work the chlorophyll with four times its volume of butter. So uh I don't know whether any of this is helpful, but hopefully some of it is helpful. And let us go to our first commercial break. There are music. There's a communication.
+
+[21:14] It's not HeritageRadio Network.org. Today's program has been brought to you by Fairway Market, like no other market, a New York City institution that sells the best local, national, and international artisan foods for prices that can't be beat. For more information, visit Fairway Market.com. Hi, I'm Steve Jenkins from Fairway Markets. I've devoted my idiot career to the old ways, the old recipes, the old tools, the old geography of where serious foods come from for centuries.
+
+[22:01] And I've strived to make these wonderful things available to New Yorkers for 37 years, so it's a feta complet for us to support Heritage Radio Network. And I hope you will too, and I hope you'll keep tuning in. For more information, please visit Fairway Market.com. Like what you hear so far? Support the network and become a member.
+
+[22:22] Membership helps us bring you the best food radio in the world and gives you access to thousands of dollars in discounts at the sustainably minded businesses that support us. To become a member, visit Heritage Radio Network.org today. Sounds like Booker. Have you ever met Steve Jenkins? No, he yelled at me once from a uh above the, you know, in the fairway, they have like a right by the cheese thing, there's like an upper counter where like they can look down and see what's happening in the cheese land.
+
+[22:58] Yeah, he yelled at me from that once. Oh, what were you doing? I don't remember. I just remember being yelled at. Oh man.
+
+[23:03] Is he pleasant to deal with here at the radio show? That's great. I love Steve. I mean, I love it, I love what he has done for the cheese world. Yeah.
+
+[23:09] I thank goodness many days for his 88 career. He he he was one of the people who uh, you know, for those of you who don't know Steve Jenkins, or for those of you that think that somehow everyone in America has always cared about cheese, well, you're wrong. Uh, you know, uh a long time ago, there were a couple of shops in New York where you could get uh you know cheeses. So, you know, you think they're you know it's Zabars for a long time. But Fairway uh I think really uh was one of the leaders in uh in the in the uh 90s and ear early, early nineties at least, in really kind of raising uh cheese consciousness among a large group of people.
+
+[23:50] Wouldn't you say so, Jack? Yeah, absolutely. I mean, yeah, so I I feel that we uh we owe Steve Jenkins as a cheese eating culture uh a lot. You know, and then you know, I mean obviously we have a lot of cheese gurus now. Do you know what I mean?
+
+[24:03] But I think I think we owe him I think we owe him a lot. We all always credit Steve too, all the people that go on uh Ansax will be show and talk about cheese. You know, he was one of the inspirations. Yeah, yeah. So gotta love him.
+
+[24:13] Thank God for idiots. Okay. Uh we have a follow-up from Rob Trapas, who by the way, I I now can just pronounce his name because he's had written in enough. I don't need the help anymore. It's tripos.
+
+[24:26] Uh we uh we had a discussion on the radio program about uh rebottling vermouth, and here's his follow-up. Dave et al. Thanks for your help and insight on my quest to rebuttal my apparatus and vermouths. He was having a problem with them oxidizing. Uh I found that fever treever Tree Tonic and ginger ale are bottled in 200 milliliter glass bottles that accept regular uh caps, i.e.
+
+[24:44] crown court caps that you can get at any homebrew shop and you could buy the bottler for very little. I mean the uh the capper for very little. Uh excepting regular caps, and then some champagne splits also take uh standard bottle caps. I thought they all did. No?
+
+[24:58] I thought they all did. Yeah, look. It's not an actual champagne slip if it uh uh uh bottle if it doesn't take the cap. So I don't know what your any non-screw top uh thing should accept it. Uh okay.
+
+[25:08] The reason why is because that's how they store it normally before they cork it when they're doing their racking stuff. Anyways, okay, okay. So after uh and it's convenient that you can pack a fifth into four small bottles. So after a few gin and tonics, horses' necks and French 75s. You know, that's what they used to call uh some of the people in my stepfather's family.
+
+[25:26] They all had dumb names for people, like mean ones, mean nicknames they use behind their back, and horse's neck was one. Uh why for Gerard's uh uh great grandma. Well, out of no idea why. I have no idea why. Why they call they I can't some of them are unrepeatable on the air.
+
+[25:41] Some of some of the in fact, the vast majority of the Adenizio family nicknames are unrepeatable on the on the air. Uh although they are hilarious. Okay. A um uh I collected enough bottles to rebottle my collection. A local wine shop and canned wine uh preserver gas, Argonne, which remember is the good one to use, that I used to purge the headspace.
+
+[26:01] I experimented our different dispensing techniques to get an effective blanket using a bottle filled with water and a match. Well uh the reason well, you'll see why. Uh one drawback to canned gas is that the pressure is high at first and then dissipates as you use it. I found that seven quick sprays towards the south side of the bottle, did the trick, and I checked my blanket by putting a lit match in the opening just below the crown. If the match went out immediately, I reasoned there was no oxygen.
+
+[26:23] I then used the same technique on the fortified fortified wines. When I noticed a different pressure flow out of the can, I checked the water uh blank. The attached poor quality cell phone shows the results. Happily I can now keep six small fresh bottles in my refrigerator along with my syrups and acid ingester without upsetting the family too much. I also attached a PDF, which is from a wine thing, you guys can look it up, uh, with some more information on inert gas.
+
+[26:47] Yep, what do you think? Uh he also uh remember I recommended pick uh picking up a copy of Fix the Pump by uh Darcy O'Neal. Remember that? Yeah, he did that and he likes it, so there you have it. Nice.
+
+[26:58] Yeah, bueno. Can I ask a really quick question? Sure. This is for me. Um if I don't refrigerate Vermouth, how long am I gonna be good for?
+
+[27:06] It's not the refrigeration that's the problem. Refrigeration slows the changes that are due to oxidation, right? So if you uh like w if you were to actually effectively remove all of the oxygen from uh where the stuff is, then its shelf life shouldn't be compromised over regular vermouth, but uh storing regular vermouth in the fridge is gonna prolong its its life after it's been opened if you don't remove the oxygen. Okay. Yeah.
+
+[27:34] Got it. Yeah. But I definitely recommend doing it, andor buying with most people, if they're not like at the very minimum, just buy small bottles of vermouth. I mean, the real problem is is that it's usually only the brands that aren't my favorite brands that come in the small bottles. So no one makes small bottles of carpano.
+
+[27:51] They only come in in you know, larger things. No one makes small bottles of dolin, no one makes small bottles of coke or all these other things that you know we like to use. And so it's a problem. If you're a fan of something like Martini and Rossi, then those do come in smaller bottles and the cost isn't so high, so you can use it in relatively short order. You know what I mean?
+
+[28:13] This is another dumb question, but a barrows are not wine, right? Uh well, I mean, they uh now you have to look up Nastasha, look up the technical definition of Amara while he's looking at it and we'll get back to it. I mean, they can be a wine base, right? They can have a wine base and then fortify with herbs and extra liquor to get the proof up. But Astasha's gonna look up this is the first time ever.
+
+[28:34] Nastash's gonna look up what? This is the first time I mean useful. Well, that's true. I mean, in general in life. Yeah.
+
+[28:41] You you probably didn't hear what she said because she wasn't uh her face wasn't in the microphone, but she was right here. Uh-huh. Uh-huh. All right. We'll get we'll get that, we'll get that technical stuff for you, Jack, in just a second.
+
+[28:50] We have a now, these questions I'm just I'm just reading, so I haven't I haven't had time to look at them beforehand. They're they're coming off of uh off of I don't know, Jack's printer somehow made them. Hello, gang. This is from Mike. Uh I have a practical question concerning chili peppers.
+
+[29:04] I frequently handle them when cooking, and by the time I'm finished with prep work, my hands often feel like they're burning. Presumably it has something to do with capsation, uh, which is the you know the heating part, the hot principle in uh hot peppers. Sometimes I'm smart enough to wear latex gloves, but this isn't always possible. Plus at home you don't like to wear latex gloves anyway, do you? Do you like to wear latex gloves?
+
+[29:21] Well, Nastasha likes to wear latex gloves when she's cooking. That's some weird stuff I don't want to get into. No. No. I'm making it up.
+
+[29:27] Uh do you know of any treatment which neutralizes this burning sensation? Uh sorry for such a uh housewife topic. Hey, don't be insulting the housewives, by the way. Uh but my hands really, really hurt right now. Much appreciated, and please uh keep up the great work, Mike.
+
+[29:41] Well, I don't know. Do you know of any if you like uh presumably you have some small nicks and cuts somewhere in your hand, right? So what would see I don't think rubbing it with oil would help because capsation is oil soluble, so it would go into in go you go into that. I mean, you could try it as kind of a a primary thing, but then your hands are gonna be slippery and you're gonna slice the heck out of your hands. I would just uh look, if you only handle as you're cutting, if you're careful to only handle the waxy outer cuticle section of the of the pepper, then you're not gonna become in contact with the with the with the seeds too much.
+
+[30:15] And probably if after you slice it, you give it a real quick, quick rinse in in uh in uh water to get the stuff off, it might help a little bit. But I don't really know. I've never been asked to have this problem fixed. Uh so listen, anyone out there, please give us your thoughts on uh if you have problems cutting uh cutting you know red hot pep hot chili peppers, and you know of a solution other than latex gloves, call us in, right? Yeah, and we'll do it next week.
+
+[30:45] All right, next one, which also has something to do with uh capsation, is uh from Rory Mearns. And Rory writes Hi Dave from the Land Down Under, aka New Zealand. Love the show. I listen to the podcast on my walk home from work. I have a quick that's a long walk.
+
+[31:00] Well, where does he live? I'm saying I don't know, but I'm saying it's a long walk. If you listen to the podcast on the it's a long, long walk. Uh I have a question regarding the coloring of uh of a capsecum-based sauce I'm working on that contains uh cap, you know, capsecum peppers, red peppers, presumably red, uh uh, although it doesn't necessarily need to be vinegar, sugar, salt, and a little ginger and garlic, no other additives. The sauce is bottled and capped while hot, and it's a stunning red color.
+
+[31:25] It retains this color well overall, but after a while there's some darkening seen near the tops of the bottles. What is causing this? I assume it is some sort of oxidation. But more importantly, what options do I have to prevent it from happening? Uh oh shoot, you know what?
+
+[31:39] When I was talking about the herbs, here's what I forgot to mention. McGee in his curious cookbook on the thing says that even if you um even if you destroy the enzymes, the polyphenol oxidases in the uh in the herbs by blanching, uh after you make uh uh pesto with them, they will still eventually go brown. And the reason is is that the oxidation of those uh phenols and then their uh eventual agglomeration into brown colored things will happen even if the enzyme is uh destroyed uh you know not nearly as much but will happen at a at a much reduced rate it all depends on the actual uh uh reactivity of those uh phenolic compounds because the phenolic compounds aren't destroyed it's the enzyme that's destroyed another interesting thing if you add a fresh enzyme like any fresh herb at all to the stuff that you've blanched uh the enzymes are there and they'll go and they'll work and they'll do their dirty brown work so that might be another thing to look at uh on the herb thing is the fact that you you know maybe there's some fresh herb getting into it afterwards or maybe you just get some browning anyway maybe you need to blanch it a little bit longer to really make sure you kill all the enzyme because enzymes aren't deactivated right away anyway uh so back to uh Rory's question I assume it's some sort of oxidation but more importantly what options do I have to prevent it from happening okay looking at your uh at your list you have uh capsecum uh peppers uh vinegar which is an acid acid should present uh prevent somewhat browning because if there are any enzymes in it that are if if it's an enzymatic reaction the vinegar the acidity is going to inhibit that. Sugar, salt, and a little ginger or garlic. Okay.
+
+[33:19] But here's the issue. You don't have in there uh so oxidation is going to take place over a long period of time, regardless of whether or not there are enzymes present, as I just said. What you might want to do is add a little bit of an antioxidant. So vitamin C, ascorbic acid is one that you might try. Sodium metabisulfate.
+
+[33:44] Another one you might try, although I don't recommend it. I don't like it because the metabisulfates to me, they have like kind of a sulfur y note, like an aroma that I I think is um unpleasant. I mean, clearly it's you're you're bottling it hot, so it's not uh not a probably not an enzyme thing. Uh and it's interesting that the discoloration is seen near the top. So it's either a drying effect, which it can't be because it's sealed, or it's oxidation, which is happening at the place where the oxygen is present, aka the top.
+
+[34:11] So I would say if you adding an antioxidant is a is a way to go, or if you can, going back to the last question about vermouths, put a uh an inert gas blanket on the top of it, that might also help you. So inert gas blanket on the top, um, and or an antioxidant. I would, you know, if it was me, I would do both. I don't know what kind of time length you're talking about to browning, so I don't know uh kind of how much you you know can can get rid of. But those are uh those are my suggestions.
+
+[34:41] What do you think? Good. Good. Um, if you have time for another quick question, uh, what would your three must-try food joints be in New York while on a budget? Can be street food vendor, takeaway joint, reasonably priced restaurant, etc.
+
+[34:55] etc. Thanks for keeping up the good work. So what what do you think? Robert is for lunch, let's say. Yeah?
+
+[35:01] Yeah. Come to Robert's for lunch. How much does uh how much does Pac Pac cost? Uh I don't know. No idea.
+
+[35:09] I don't know. Yeah. Um Jack, you got any good budget joints? I'm thinking now. I guess you could you could do Robert's on a budget.
+
+[35:17] Pac Pac, I'll look up the price. I don't know. I mean like Pacpock's a great restaurant. That's uh Andy Ricker's restaurant. And uh I don't think the prices were that high, right?
+
+[35:26] I don't think so. Who else's budget? Who's b uh Nastasha's Nastasha's thinking? Right? Yeah.
+
+[35:35] All right. Jack, are we are we are we about to get the plug pulled or should we uh we don't have time for another five minutes. I got another five minutes, but not not time to see what do I have any Twitter questions, Toss? No. All right.
+
+[35:44] So we can just uh blither I can just blither for five minutes. Oh, we didn't talk about the music. Yeah, we did not. Alright, I I kind of shunned it. Here's the deal.
+
+[35:54] So we're not allowed to use uh Vicious Vicious Vodka by Amos Milburn anymore. Which I enjoy. We can make our own song called Fish is Fish's vodka. And then you know be, you know, be all set. But uh that that's probably not gonna happen.
+
+[36:10] But here here's here's the thing. So so what Jack wants to do is to have some sort of a contest for kind of a user user, a listener to say that they you know have a song they think should be the uh the what's it called? Theme song. Theme song for the cooking issue show. And then I think you well, I know I just bought uh a bass, a new bass.
+
+[36:28] I haven't played bass in many, many years, but I just bought an acoustic electric bass, and I thought, you know, Jack and I could come up with some sort of crazy theme song. And he says maybe we should have the listener theme song versus our theme song of win, especially if we do fishes. Yeah, and then people can vote. They can vote. Especially if they choose our theme song and we give them some free heritage heritage meat.
+
+[36:52] That's right. But now you're discouraging people from entering in the entering into the thing. Well, I think uh we'll probably get a little bit more. All the people who enter the contest and give us a real submission will get some some work jobs from the Heritage Meat Shop if they happen to be in New York. What are the requirements?
+
+[37:08] Yeah, what are the requirements, Jack? For the song, yeah. Yeah. Shouldn't be uh it doesn't need to be longer than say a minute and a half. And uh should be clean for the radio.
+
+[37:17] Right. Right. Uh instrumental, right? Well well, you know what? Not necessarily.
+
+[37:24] No, I'm I'm gonna keep it pretty open-ended. Yeah, like why would it why would it be instrumental? Like, like, for instance, like I would be proud to have the Hearst Ranch grass fed beef. Oh, man. You know.
+
+[37:33] We should get him on right. Right? He should probably come up with your theme song. Well, I don't know. Uh yeah.
+
+[37:45] Yeah. I mean, like, I like the problem is that like I'm just a fan of that uh particular uh that particular song. So, you know, you know, Hirschwag Grandfed Beef. So anyway, send us your music. Info at heritage radio network.org.
+
+[37:59] Come up with a theme song. Does it have to be in a certain format? MP3 is best. Yeah, yeah. Alrighty then.
+
+[38:06] Uh so I guess uh, you know, you're gonna give you ten more seconds to call in. If not, have a good week, and we'll be back next week with cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio.
+
+[38:37] You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network dot org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:01] Looking for a fun night out? K1 Speed puts you behind the wheel for an adrenaline filled time you and your friends will never forget. Off the track, the fun keeps rolling with arcade games, great food, and drinks. They even have private party rooms for your birthday parties and corporate outings. Race hard, laugh harder, and claim your spot on the podium.
+
+[0:24] K1 speed. More than racing, it's an experience. Today's program has been brought to you by Hearst Ranch, the nation's largest single source supplier of free range, all natural, grass-fed, and grass-finished beef. For more information, visit Hearstranch.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn.
+
+[0:47] If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. That's a little mellow for us, don't you think? Yeah, it is, huh? It's like a little mellow. It's like how am I supposed to go from that to Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[1:08] This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live every Tuesday from 12 to 1245 at Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn on the Heritage Radio Network, joined as usual with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez in the studio and Jack and Joe in the engineering booth. How you guys doing? You know, I think the mellow theme actually got you more amped up. Well, I had to be. Yeah, that worked out well.
+
+[1:29] Yeah. I'm telling you, man, I have the the bass. I haven't practiced enough. Well here's what I realized. Like if you don't play bass for like 10, 12 years or so, uh, you lose your chops.
+
+[1:38] You know what I'm saying? Like my my hands tire out soon. I'm what they I'm what they call a a uh a sissy. Um but yeah, I'm still thinking about uh writing uh writing the you know a cooking issues based theme. Or I could just do like a night court style stupid bass intro thing.
+
+[1:54] We could try that. Yeah, for those of you that remember Night Court. Even do like some sign public, like Joe just said, yeah. That would be cool. Yeah, I I mean I could do that stuff all day long.
+
+[1:59] If you guys got the mic, I got the bass. Let's do it next week. All right, I'll bring in the bass. By the way, speaking of next week, on uh starting on this Sunday is the Star Chef's International Chef Conference, does. Are you are you happy that you're gonna be out of the country during that?
+
+[2:20] That means you're not gonna have to help during the uh yeah. So one thing we have to do is serve a cocktail though. No, no, I'm doing a uh I'm also doing a workshop. See you wouldn't know it because it doesn't say it anywhere on the website that I'm doing a workshop, but uh there is a slot. I'm doing a workshop on Monday from I think uh something in the afternoon sometime, like uh two to four or something like that.
+
+[2:41] Uh at the International Chefs Congress, and whatever, they had a slot, so they're like, hey Dave, will you be our sloppy third? Some guy cancel. Will you do it? I'm like, yeah, sure. What the hell, I'll do it.
+
+[2:50] I'll do it. I'll do it. So it's supposed to be tech and cocktails. I'm gonna bust out probably the centrifuge. I might bring the crappy little centrifuge just for you guys to play with.
+
+[2:57] Although it stars, it's not firing up. I uh I took it apart. So in in all fairness to the piece of equipment. I took it apart, but it's not getting electrical signal anymore. Is your yours at home still working?
+
+[3:06] Circulator? No, no, no, no, no. The uh the uh centrifuge. Pay attention, pay attention. Catch up.
+
+[3:10] Oh, uh he took it to Del Posto. So it's still working? Yeah. Alright, I'm gonna have to borrow that sucker. Um or fix fix mine.
+
+[3:18] But I'm gonna bring the full size centrifuge. I'm gonna do a lot of work with uh what I've been working on for the past couple of weeks for the new bar menu is tannin removal. Tannin removal. I'll just leave it there. I won't spoil it before the demo, or before I can write it, but just put that in your head.
+
+[3:34] Tannin removal. And also, some interesting bodying effects with uh whey protein. So head on down to the International Chefs Congress to see Dave Arnold, me from Booker and Dax, our bar doing a what in the hell they call this? Like a mixing workshop or something. I know, right?
+
+[3:52] Pathetic. Well, you're not doing it for me, you're sitting around. So every time I I have a birthday, right? Which is too many, too many, too many times that Nastasha and I have shared birthdays together. I'm like, we still work together?
+
+[4:03] What the hell? Like it's like we just increment the year and we're like, I'm 41 freaking years old, and I'm still carrying my own equipment to demos. You know, when you're like 20 and uh forget 20, when you're like 19 and you're in a band and you're like someday our band's gonna be awesome, and someone's gonna move my big bass rig for me from place to place. I'm gonna have like, you know, roadies. No, never happens.
+
+[4:26] Never happens. The day that someone actually picks up a piece of equipment for me, I will drop dead from shock. So I hope it never happens. Anyway. Japanese, the Japanese.
+
+[4:35] What? The Japanese. Oh, that's true, man. That was crazy. And then we almost died from shock.
+
+[4:39] Yeah. Right? We showed up, all the equipment was moved around. Yeah. Like the equipment we asked for was there, and we we almost passed out.
+
+[4:46] Remember that? Crazy. Don't do that to me. Don't, don't, don't all of a sudden change things like that. It's no good.
+
+[4:51] Okay. Uh last week we had a question in on oh, I didn't say the uh number. 718 497-2128. That's 718-497-2128 to call in live to the studio. 718 being a Brooklyn number, this being the land of hipsters.
+
+[5:04] Okay, uh last week I had a uh Twitter question come in and I didn't get a chance to uh answer it. I apologize. From Landon Young, ordered a Berkshire hog head and belly, bacon, cold or hot smoke, and head favorite use. Okay, look. The bacon, uh look, I I don't I've only made it like once or twice many, many, many, many years ago, and I don't do a lot of smoking.
+
+[5:23] In fact, there's another smoking question here. Um, but I will say what what I from what I do know, uh, I, you know, the recipes uh ask for a warm smoke, not a cold smoke. In other words, like bacon is supposed to be somewhat cooked, up in anywhere between 130, which is on the low side, but really more like 145, uh 150 is typical, like 140 I would do probably for it after it's been cured in a mixture of salt uh and nitrates and spices and possibly sugar and maple syrup and what else. Um, you know, you could do dry or wet, it doesn't matter, but they're almost invariably cooked during the uh smoking process. That said, that said, and it all depends.
+
+[6:01] If you're gonna fry it, I mean who the heck cares how much, you know, not not who the heck cares, but like it's not super uh critical on what temperature you're gonna cook it up to so long as you bring it up to the final cooking temperature. Now, if you salt the bejesus out of it and dry it, then you don't need to cook it at all, right? Um so it a lot is dependent upon what kind of cure you're gonna use uh and how you're gonna use the finished product. That said, the my favorite, not bacon, but pork belly I've ever had was Wiley, my brother-in-law Wiley Dufrein's original WD-50 opening menu uh long cooked pork belly, and he cured it. Uh he cured it in a mix with nitrites, actually, uh and salt for a long period of time, and he cooked it at an extremely low temperature in a circulator.
+
+[6:45] He didn't smoke it, right? So he just took it out uh of the cure, pressed it really flat so it was nice and dense, and then uh crisped up the skin side and sliced it thin, served it. Or not even thin, it was in chunks, but the most delicious pork belly I've ever had. But if you were going to do a uh something like that instead of a bacon, then what I would do is I would do the cooking procedure as Wiley did. Then I would uh dry it off at a very low temperature so you're not cooking it, uh, and then cold smoke it.
+
+[7:14] That stuff was delicious. Oh my god, was that stuff delicious? Okay. Uh and then as for the head, favorite use. Uh now, okay, look.
+
+[7:21] So if you want to go Italian on this, you should definitely cut the gel. I'm assuming the head comes with the jowl, right? And Nastasha, I know that you hate almost everything in the world that's delicious, but you like guanciali, right? Mm-hmm. Really?
+
+[7:31] You're not just saying that so I don't yell at you? I don't like it as much as Pinchale. I would, I don't put it in uh carbonara. Okay, uh listen, I'm not gonna, I can't I can't have this discussion with you, Nastasha. But guanchali, which is the cu which is the cured uh jowl of the pig, is in my mind one of the more delicious things in the world.
+
+[7:51] It's my it it perhaps ranks in the top one of my pizza toppings. You know, aside from you know, whatever cheese and sauce, blah blah blah. But like in terms of meat-based topping for a pizza, my absolute favorite. Have you not had the guancialian egg pizza here? I have not had that.
+
+[8:06] Guess what's gonna happen today? Guancialian egg pizza! At Robert's come to Robertas and have our delicious pizzas. Right? Right.
+
+[8:13] Uh anyway, uh so guanchali is delicious. So if there is uh if the jowl is left on the uh pig head, I would definitely take that off and cure that separately. I uh I you know I like a saw like a lot of people who are doing these artisanal guancholis, like cure the hell out of them, and they really salt the ever-loving crap out of them, uh, and they become a lot drier. I actually prefer a more modern, wetter, what? Nastasha's like uh shocked because she's reading something about uh uh drug-resistant gonorrhea on in a magazine.
+
+[8:39] But okay, so once you cut the jowl off, then uh and I've never made it, but one of my favorite things to eat made from pork head is uh is uh testa, you know, uh head cheese, uh the Italian-style head cheese. There's a decent recipe for it on page 187 of the new Salumi book by uh Poulson and Ruleman. You like Testa styles? She's not paying attention. I'm reading your tweets.
+
+[9:00] Uh no, uh yeah, I do. Yeah, okay, fine, fine. Good, good. Nice enough. She actually is trying to find out if any of you guys are tweeting in questions.
+
+[9:07] So I'm gonna give her a pass on this one for not paying attention. It's good, it's good. Anyway, uh, but if you the one thing I have done a lot with pork heads and I like, and I know it's not traditional at all, is making a scrapple with them. Scrapple, scrapple, for those of you that don't eat scrapple, smack yourself in the face. Unless you're a vegetarian, if you don't eat cra uh scrapple, I almost called it scrapple, which is a lot of people.
+
+[9:27] Smack yourself because scrapple is incredibly delicious. Now, what is scrapple? Scrapple is basically polenta plus. If you just sold scrapple as polenta plus, then everyone would order this, right? So when you're butchering a hog or whatever, whatever you got, right?
+
+[9:42] Hog, uh traditionally the scrapple will be made from kind of the the the uh metzels, you know, metals up of the butcher's soup of whatever's being boiled uh and done, along with uh all the entrails called the pluck, and it would have a lot of liver. And so the liver thing is what kind of I think what gave it a bad uh wrap among certain people, but modern scrapples don't have to be made with liver, don't have to have that livery taste. You just cook the heck out of the head, right? Get a nice strong gelatinum, the keys has to be a gelatinous stock. Pull the head out, pick the meat, chop it up, throw in the cornmeal, cook it like a polenta, at the last second, throw the meat back into it, form it into blocks, let that sucker set, cut that sucker, fry it, and pour maple syrup over it.
+
+[10:19] Could anything possibly be more delicious than this? I don't know. I don't know. I like scrapple hits like a cord in my taste memory uh because even my grandma actually, my non-Pennsylvania Dutch grandma used to make it for me, but you know, I have a lot of like Pennsylvania in my family going way back, although I never lived there. Uh so scrapple is uh fantastic, and there's many regional variants of scrapple.
+
+[10:40] If you want to read an incredibly informative but deathly boring book, the authoritative book on Scrapple is William Voice Weaver's book titled Scrapple. Uh another way, what's it? So Scrapple, you do you like Scrapp? You know, you're not even paying attention, but you don't like Scrapple. I don't think I've ever had it.
+
+[10:54] Do you like polenta? Mm-hmm. Yeah. Another thing, I don't know whether I've discussed this uh on the air before, but another food that has a bad rap, like scrapple, is freaking haggis. Haggis.
+
+[11:03] Have I discussed this? Anyone remember me discussing haggis? Hagis freaking delicious. If you were to just sell haggis as oatmeal plus, right, which is basically what it is. It's like oatmeal and meat stuff stuff stuffed into a sheep c uh sheep's uh what's that thing called?
+
+[11:17] Stomach and cooked. That is delicious. That is delicious. Haggis, neeps, and tatties. Look, there's meat, sure.
+
+[11:24] There's meat in haggis that some people are screamish about, but you eat that crap every day if you eat any sort of processed meat. And whatever. I'm just saying scrapple, haggis, come back, brothers, because you are some delicious meat products. Uh should we take a commercial break? Sure.
+
+[11:38] All right. Coming back in a second with some more cooking issues.org. Pasture raised on 150,000 acres in Central California. Hell yeah. Free range.
+
+[12:47] Sustainably produce. Humane. Hurst transgrass-fed beef. The authentic flavor of the American West. Oh, yeah.
+
+[13:02] The authentic flavor of the American West. Hurst ranch. Grass-fed beef. Right? Love that song.
+
+[13:09] It never gets old. Love that song. Love it. That's the only reason we did the uh the fundraiser here was because we knew that we would get the live performance of the Hearst French grass-fed beef song. That's all that's all I wanted.
+
+[13:18] Okay. Uh, this in uh we have a lot of actually smoking and preservation questions today, Stas. Uh, this one in, I'm gonna do one that I can't answer. Should I do the one I can't answer now, or just do it at the end and say, well, sorry, I can't answer it. Bye.
+
+[13:29] But I'm not gonna do that. I'm gonna suck it up and say I can't answer it. Uh John from Osaka writes in and says, if you know the temperature of a food, uh well, sorry, if you know the temperature of food will be stored at, and that food's water content, uh, in the literature, water content is abbreviated A with a little W, by the way, meaning water activity. Uh, is there a way to calculate how much salt you need to add to that food to preserve it indefinitely? I want to make a variety of salted foods that can be stored indefinitely in the refrigerator and around five degrees Celsius.
+
+[13:56] I found a few lists of water contents of common foods, but I was unable to find information about what saltage percent uh what salt percentage is necessary to prevent microbial growth. Thanks, thanks to John and Osaka. No. How messed up is that? No, there's not.
+
+[14:08] First of all, salt does a bunch of different things. Uh, huge quantities of salt uh actually stop uh almost everything from growing, right? Which is why mummies work. Uh you know, they're completely well, they're not just salted, they're dehydrated, right? They're actually not salt, it's natron, etc.
+
+[14:24] My point is is that salt is usually used uh uh in conjunction with dehydration for preservation in foods like uh ham, for instance. Now, salt also has some other properties uh in that it inhibits many pathogenic bacteria, but not certain you know reasonable amounts of salt, but not things like lactic acid bacteria. So you add salt to things like cabbage to produce sauerkraut uh or kimchi because they will select for uh lactic acid bacteria to grow. The lactic acid bacteria increase the acidity, decrease the pH. And it's actually the combination of the salt plus the acidity that prevents uh things from spoiling.
+
+[15:06] So, and we're gonna talk about this again when we talk about sriracha in a minute, but it's uh or siracha, sorry. Uh, but the the issue is is it's very hard. Um, like water water activity and salt are one combination. And so if you have a particular system, like a meat system, then you can know a certain quantity of salt plus a certain water activity that are good. Uh, but it's hard to know because the question is is you might be safe with a lower salt content if, for instance, there's acid present.
+
+[15:36] So it's very difficult to answer, and I looked around for any sort of general guidelines uh that were applicable to all circumstances, i.e., meats, vegetables, fruits, and I couldn't find anything that I'm willing to quote. Uh, and so I don't have an answer, although this, you know, I I'm interested if anyone uh writes or tweets in or calls in with uh a source for information like that. I'm I'm happy to take it. Uh should I take a non-preservation-related question, Frison? Alright, I'll do a non-preservation-related question.
+
+[16:08] Uh question from Justin. Uh for an upcoming party with friends, uh, we are all bringing special cocktails. I like special cocktails. You? I do.
+
+[16:15] Yeah. Although, what do you actually prefer? Champagne. Champagne, correct. Uh, I've decided I want to make a vodka coffee and would really appreciate your input on it.
+
+[16:23] The goal is a full strength cocktail with a strong, rich coffee flavor and full caffeine content as well. So you want to pick them up. You know, that's the uh the espresso martini, and I don't for some reason his name just pops straight out of my head. One of the most famous bartenders in London from like, you know, for a long time. His name literally just popped out of my head.
+
+[16:41] But uh he invented the espresso martini, and the quote that he says is that a model came in and she asked for something that would pick her up and F her up. Wow. And so he invented the espresso martini. It's a good quote, yeah? Okay.
+
+[16:55] Uh and I'm seeing that's what you want here. Okay, so uh my chosen technique is a mid-grade vodka, filtered through a charcoal filter. You gotta get the right kind of uh filter, obviously, to do the right kind of uh flavor stripping. Uh cold brew coffee with a very good uh dark chocolatey coffee and in the refrigerator overnight. Filter back into the bottle, mix in vanilla, uh simple syrup to flavor.
+
+[17:16] Is there anything I can do to take this up a notch? Well, yeah. Okay, so look. So you're doing cold brew. Um, assuming you're doing the um kind of concentrated um oh, what's the name of it?
+
+[17:27] The one where you basically just stir up the grounds, let them sit in contact with the grounds for a long time, and then filter, right? As opposed to the Kyoto style uh that produces a c a coffee concentrate. So here's the thing: cold brew. Uh cold brew is becoming extremely popular right now. I don't really do much of it because I I prefer I drink a boatload of coffee, but almost exclusively in the form of espresso.
+
+[17:49] I'm trying to branch out, but I'm branching out first into uh hot hot coffees, right? Drip drip style and press style, you know. Anyway. So uh, but uh I do a lot of work with nitrous infusion and coffee. And I what I would do to kick it up is to try to do the coffee extraction directly into the liquor.
+
+[18:07] It makes an obscenely coffee uh flavored thing. See if you like it better and will allow you to have more wiggle room in terms of the other ingredients you add because it's gonna put you on your behind, uh, as they say with the espresso market in more ways than one. So with anything, the the flavors that are extracted uh in in any sort of brewing situation are dependent upon what you're trying to extract. So in coffee, there are acidic flavors, there are um there are bitter flavors, there's caffeine, there's there's a whole range of different flavors, and they're all extracted uh differently under different regimes, i.e., different pressures, different temperatures, different times, right? So uh espresso uh is brewed under extremely high pressure in very short amounts of time, uh you know, you know, through a particular kind of ground and it favors the kind of extraction you get from espresso.
+
+[18:59] Colder one, colder uh they say, although I haven't done a lot of experimenting, like a long-term cold cold drip coffee tends to produce a less acidic uh coffee, extracts less of the or maybe changes the uh doesn't alter the coffee to make those more acidic things. I don't really know. But if you were to just mix coffee grounds into liquor, you get a certain extraction. The longer you let that that liquor sit, the more of the bitter components are extracted, and the less of the varietal note you get of the coffee, and more of the just the backbiting bitter. If you pressurize that liquor with nitrous oxide in a whip in an ISI whipper, and you can look up uh rapid infusion on the cooking issues website to check it out.
+
+[19:36] Um, but like two minutes, you get an extremely like you put the an espresso-related ground in the in the in the liquor, pressurize it with nitrous oxide. The nitrous oxide forces the liquor into the coffee grounds, you vent it, it boils out violently. You get a very dark, very rich and non-bitter uh coffee that you can do like that, and you could have the whole thing done in under three minutes. And we make a lot of drinks with that as a base, and it's extremely coffee and extremely punchy. You might like it worse than cold brew, you like might like it better than cold brew.
+
+[20:05] It is a form of cold brew in that there's no heat added to it. Um too long an extraction with that technique produces extremely bitter, bitter notes. You can also change the extraction into straight water by doing a nitrous oxide uh infusion of uh water into coffee at cold temperatures and test the difference between that kind of extraction and your standard cold brew technique. With any of these things, there's no better, there's no worse, there's just what you like better. I happen to like a two-minute infusion of coffee at I forget what it is, I think it's roughly 32 grams uh uh ground coffee per liter of uh per liter of uh liquor uh for two minutes with two ISI chargers in a one-liter container, um, shaken for about a minute and a half, uh allowed to sit for two minutes, vented violently and strained.
+
+[20:49] That's my favorite. But uh your favorite may vary. I find that that's non-bitter, but if you do two and a half to three minutes, you get uh more of a bitter uh bitter note. Uh so I would do that. Here's another thing.
+
+[20:58] If you really want to take up your coffee experience a uh notch. If you are a fan of the creamy mouthfeel of a hot espresso, you can re-mimic some of that by uh carbonating not with CO2, which Manhattan Special Soda aside, I'm not it's very hard to get a good brew that way. Uh nitrous. If you actually, once you chill the cocktail, you carbonate it with nitrous and spray it out of a foamer. It's not the necessarily the foam, but the creamy aeration you get from the nitrous bubbles and the slight sweetness that comes from it, uh, mimics the body that you get in a hot in a hot style espresso, but in a cold drink.
+
+[21:32] And uh I tend to do that with uh a good number of coffee drinks that I do that don't contain milk. Uh although I could do it in milky coffee drinks too. Why don't I? Is it because I'm stupid? I know why.
+
+[21:41] It's because it costs a lot of money to do in a commercial situation to keep pumping those cartridges out. We should do one. What the hell? I mean, just for ourselves. Do you like that coffee drink, Stuck?
+
+[21:50] Yeah, it's good, right? We make a drink called the Shakerado that's that that coffee liquor I just told you with uh um so two ounces of of that liquor. And this one's it's m it's mellow. It's a lot a lot mellower because there's there's milk and cream in it. So it's two ounces of that, I think a half ounce of simple syrup, one to one, and uh an ounce of cream and an ounce of uh milk shaken and it gets a good frothy head, and you pour that into a glass.
+
+[22:13] But we could do that probably with a cartridge and just spray that sucker out and just go go loony bins with it. I'll try it. Maybe I'll try it today or tomorrow or whatever. They have two things. Yeah.
+
+[22:22] Is that the guy? Uh from Espresso Martini. Oh, yeah, that is him. Yeah. And all right on the line.
+
+[22:28] Oh. Caller, you're on the air. Hi. Yeah, my name's Jeff. I'm calling from Los Angeles.
+
+[22:33] Um, I had a question about uh cocooey nuts or candle nuts in Indonesian food. Right. I know I understand that they're uh poisonous, and I guess I wondered what what's the temperature you're supposed to cook them to, or can you kind of pre-cook them so that way they're not poisonous? 'Cause I won't want to keep them around the house, but I'm worried about my young nephew and dogs and cats and stuff eating them and dying. Uh wait, wait, but you you want to eat them yourselves or you just want to find out how to oh you want to keep them as solids around but you want to neutralize them.
+
+[23:05] Right. Okay. I researched this uh I researched this a couple of months ago, and the only thing that stuck in my head was I really wanted one because you can burn them straight up apparently. Have you ever burned one? I haven't actually burned them before, but that's why they call them candle nuts, apparently, is because they make you can they're they're oily enough you can use them in like candles.
+
+[23:24] Right. Yeah, I mean that's what I read, and I've always wanted to like wouldn't that be awesome, like you know, instead of a regular candle on the table just burning that sucker. Um That'd be kind of cool. Yeah, uh but I see I seem to remember there there being some I I I can't remember off the top of my head what the toxic principles in it are, and therefore since I can't remember what the toxic principles in it are, I can't think of a good way to remove them. Um I seem to remember there being some procedures for it.
+
+[23:48] Are they they are they consumed locally or are they just burned? They're they're consumed. They're actually part of uh Indonesian cuisine. I guess they're a thickener for uh a lot of curries, Indonesian curries and things like that. And do they do more than just cook do they cook them in a bunch of soaks of water?
+
+[24:03] I I guess you kind of crush them up and put them inside of the curry and they create some type of thickening. Um I I I haven't kept them around the house or use them yet, just because I'm I'm concerned because I have m you know, small kids and and dogs, so I'm worried. Right. I was given some poisonous nuts by a friend of mine and from Singapore once, and I forget the name of them. They weren't candle nuts.
+
+[24:24] And those ones you had to uh I think you had to cook them in like three boils of water first and then use them for whatever you're gonna use them. But you know, there's a lot of nuts that aren't poisonous, acorns, for instance, that uh are extraordinarily bitter. And so uh you would extract the bitter components by boiling them a bunch of times in water, throwing that water away, and then and then crushing and grinding it. But I'd have to I'd have to look up and seeing whether or not there's some there's some poisonous things that are that are destroyed by fermentation, and there are some poisonous things that are destroyed by uh just being heat labile, and there are some poisonous things that are destroyed by leaching. My guess with these guys is that it's by leaching.
+
+[25:07] You're hoping it's by leaching, because then you can just boil it a bunch of times, throw the water away and be good. But I'm gonna have to research it because I don't know off the top of my head. Okay. Or I was I was also wondering, I have a circulator if I can just cook it at a certain temperature for X amount of time, I'll just pasteurize it and kill it off that way. Okay, so like certain things like water chestnuts are have actual parasites in them and need to be cooked.
+
+[25:29] You know, you can kill that way, but i it it's all a question of whether or not the whatever the toxic principle in them is uh is heat stable. If it's not heat stable, if it's heat labile, then yes, you can just cook it away, and then it's a question of knowing a time temperature. And if you're if you're lucky enough that the that the temperature uh to destroy the toxin is low enough to not destroy the structure of the nut, then you can have something that looks like a raw, undorked with nut that um you know is i is is okay, but the odds of that are fairly low, I would guess. I would guess you have to leach the stuff out. If you're never gonna if you're never gonna eat them, you could probably lease them out with something that won't ruin them.
+
+[26:12] But I have to I have to research it. Stas, can you put that down as like something for me to look? I'm gonna I'm gonna look into candle nut uh preparation and I'll I'll try to get to it next week. Does that sound good? Sounds good.
+
+[26:22] Thank you. All right, thank you. Uh okay. So I already answered the the coffee question, yeah? Yeah.
+
+[26:28] I did, right? I finished that? Okay, good. Uh because I never know. I can never remember whether or not I got like sucked off topic or whether I answered it.
+
+[26:35] Is that I mean, I guess that's that makes sense because of me, because that's how I work. Okay. You guys know next week is episode 100, right? What? Oh my god, we gotta blow this out.
+
+[26:45] What are we gonna do, Jack? Wait, I lied the week after next week. Oh that's just even more uh advanced notice for you. We gotta do something. Yeah?
+
+[26:54] Yeah? All right, we'll figure it out. Okay. From Jonathan. What is the best way to smoke a whole chicken?
+
+[27:01] I have a pretty good uh kitchen and includes a low temperature smoker as well as a hot smoker, and both have good temperature control. I also have a circulator and a CVAP. Yeah, that's pretty good. Uh so uh anyway, for the for the two people that listen to this show that don't know what a circulator is, God bless you for listening to my ramblings without knowing what a circulator is. But uh uh circulator is a piece of equipment that can hold a temperature very accurately.
+
+[27:27] Actually, uh there's kind of the like the wars between my buddies, right? Philip Preston now has the $500 circulator. What's the uh Nomiko going for? Uh Weepop circulator. $100?
+
+[27:36] No, it's like $350 or $400. Anyway, so it's the War of the Inexpensive Circulators, and while this may not be a good thing for circulator manufacturers, it is gonna be a great thing for the world at large. Because I predict that with the circulator dropping below 500, there's going to be an explosion of circulators on the market. What do you think? Yeah, I think so.
+
+[27:53] Yeah, she doesn't give care. She doesn't care. You like using the circulator, right? I haven't used it in a while, man. Really?
+
+[27:58] Why? Because you have brain damage or you don't cook anymore. Because she goes out with Mark Ladner from freaking Del Posto and just has him do the goddamn cooking. I didn't mean to curse. Wow, that was a curse.
+
+[28:08] It was a curse. Well, it depends on who you're talking to. Depends on who you're talking to. Jack, is that a curse on this radio show? We'll have to ask the concerned apparent who wrote in that one time.
+
+[28:16] Ooh. Oh no, but he was happy. He just didn't want to, he just said he pre-listened to it. Oh, right. Screened the shows.
+
+[28:22] He didn't hate us for it. I've cursed more than you. That's true. That is true. It's a family program.
+
+[28:27] Okay. So, Jonathan, yes, you do have a uh pretty well uh pointed kitchen there. Okay. Here's the issue with the smoked chicken. Uh so the question is most people I looked up on the internets uh to see what the kind of standard answer for the smoked chicken uh thing is, and it seems to me that everyone cooks the heck out of a chicken.
+
+[28:46] They overcook the hell out of it. They like it with the with the crap cooked out of it. So most people on the internets are smoking it uh at a temperature between 250 degrees and 300 degrees Fahrenheit inside of the smoking chamber for a long period of time. So it's the equivalent of of uh of like you know, slow cook uh on any sort of uh uh barbecue they just with smoke. Um in general, they brine the the ever loving whatever out of these birds because when you're gonna viciously overcook the birds because they're they're all cooked up to an internal temperature of like 170, which is like 165, 170, which is above 70 degrees Celsius, which is ouch, that's high.
+
+[29:23] It's high temperature, like 63, 64, 65, even 67 Celsius. So high. So high hurts my feelings to think about it. The leg meat might actually be okay at that temperature because there's enough connective tissue to break down and be good, but the breast meat is going to be dry. It will be dry.
+
+[29:38] There will be dry breast meat. Um so they brine uh the heck out of it with salt. The salt ameliorates uh the uh the protein, like lets up allow the protein to hold on to more water even when it's viciously overcooked. Um, and then then smoke it, and they love the smoke flavor so much from the long smoking that they probably tolerate the fact. They all say that it's juicy, and I'm sure there's fat present, which makes it look juicy, especially in the fatter parts of the chicken.
+
+[29:59] But I guarantee you that that breast meat is not juicy at those temperatures. It just isn't, unless you've really jacked it with phosphates and salt and all sorts of stuff, which I doubt you do. Here are the important things to take into consideration. One, if you want uh smoke to develop on the surface of the chicken, you want a real smoky flavor, you're really gonna have to uh dry the skin off, let it dry off before you hit the serious smoke with it. And the same thing, by the way, goes with the bacon, as we said before.
+
+[30:27] I probably didn't say it before, but obviously you want the surface to be dry, so it helps to uh let the thing, even before you hit heavy smoke on it to um to get dry. But you know this since you already have a smoker that can do low temperatures as well as high temperatures. Um the other thing is is that um you know it it depends on what you want out of a smoked chicken. So if you want to smoke chicken uh to be pink, right, to have take take on that pink color, then you're gonna need to make sure that you have uh an actual wood or a lot of gas fire. You're gonna you're gonna need a lot of like what they call NOX, i.e.
+
+[31:01] either uh NO gas or NO2 gas, right? NO2 gas, somewhat water soluble, permeates into the um into the chicken, reacts with whatever um you know myoglobin is present and forms a stable pink cured color, right? Which is the I think the best associated uh uh explanation of why uh smoke ring happens in things. So for a smokery for pinkness, you're gonna want uh low low temperatures so that you're not uh denaturing the myoglobin very quickly, right? Because the way myoglobin, even though there's not much in chicken, it's present, the the way myoglobin denatures is the slower it denatures, the more resistant it is to changing its color and uh turning into you know the gray color of totally cooked cooked myoglobe, gray and brown.
+
+[31:43] So uh that's why, for instance, that when you do low temperature cooking in a circulator, uh the meat around the bone, if it's not cooked quickly, uh gets insulated and never really gets cooked uh to uh what people are thinking is a done color. I call that kind of persistent pinking, but it's a slightly different pink when you get uh cured meats, and so you should be fine. People should like it. Although people do throw away pink smoked chickens and turkeys if they don't know any better. Anyway, uh that's that's neither here nor there.
+
+[32:11] Um so uh this is what these guys are doing. If I were you, I would cook this sucker through to I would you want to do a whole chicken, you said, right? Shoot, whole chicken. See if if you were allowed to if you if you're gonna do it whole, then I would brine it because the breast meat's still gonna need protection. Uh even if you cook it, uh let's say we're gonna C vap it up to an internal temperature of uh 66 Celsius, let's say 66 Celsius.
+
+[32:37] The bones will still be uh still be pink there. Now you gotta remember, like if I don't want any pinking around the bones, I completely bone it and leave it whole a la my totally boned out uh crazy aluminum, you know, Thanksgiving turkey. Are we gonna do that again this year, Stuz? Yeah, we can. You wanna?
+
+[32:52] You want to do two? You can have one? What are you doing? Who knows? You don't know what you're doing for Thanksgiving?
+
+[32:58] Oh, okay. Let me give this finished. So then what this is, what I would do then is uh I would I would cook it all the way through, pull it out hot, let it flash off so it dries off, and then you can do a cold smoke, but you will not get a pink ring with that because once you cook the meat, it won't pink up from the uh smoke ring. If you want to go more traditional and you want it more evenly cooked, uh, I would spatchcock it, i.e., cut the thing open and splay it open, although that's not really a uh a whole bird, but that's the way that I do uh larger animals like turkeys. If I'm gonna grill them and I don't have accurate temperature control, of course you do.
+
+[33:27] Okay, caller. You're on the air. Hi, Dave. It's Derek from uh Montreal. Hey.
+
+[33:29] And uh I have a question about oysters. Am I ready? Uh you uh a few weeks ago you mentioned just off the cuff that you would once uh steeped oysters in aquarium salts and water so that they would pick up flavors that you were infusing and not water. Correct. And uh I want to know uh I picked up the salt, and I just want to know what the uh the best approach was to get the a successful result.
+
+[33:58] All right, so okay, so so here's here's the here's the thing. So first thing you have to figure out is how uh briny you like uh your oysters, right? What kind of salt level you want in your oysters? I like fairly salty uh oysters, like so for instance, like ducks berries out of Massachusetts and things like that. I really enjoy that.
+
+[34:18] Uh you might like a slightly less saline one, and so you're gonna have to figure out how much salt you're gonna want to add per uh gallon of liquid. It's usually it's been a while since I've done it, but I believe it's 0.29 or 0.27 pounds of salt per gallon of uh liquid. I'm sorry I remember it for all you metric heads. I'm sorry I remember it in Imperial Units, but that's you know what it is. Um and that relates to the that relates to the average salinity of ocean water, which is what aquarium salt is kind of calibrated to.
+
+[34:49] Okay. So you you're gonna want to end up at something like that. Now the question is what flavors do you want to do? And how fine a uh so what you don't want to do is include anything in the liquid that's going to kill the oysters, i.e., either clog its gills, so large particles, I forget what the exact number is, but it's somewhere on the order of uh particles larger than I think like 10, 12, 14 microns, particles larger larger than that tend to clog up the gills of oysters and kill them. Okay.
+
+[35:14] So you so you don't want uh large particles like that. So you want everything filtered. I use a rotor stator homogenizer that can blend things down to well below that. A vita prep, just for your, you know, just for mental information, can only really get down to about a 20 micron size. So not enough to prevent um prevent gill clogging in this.
+
+[35:37] So you want to make sure that everything is filtered. So juices are good, uh things like that. Uh you also can't be uh acidic, right? So pH water, I mean you gotta get the pH balance of the water has to be uh accurate. So you can't use a lot of uh acids or that will also wipe them out.
+
+[35:55] Uh I have had people say that they've had luck with things that are otherwise irritants like smoke. And we have done bacon in clams, but I haven't done it in oysters because when I was doing a lot of my initial experiments, I want to stay away from things that were known irritants. I know for instance that cardamom uh works. So I'll tell you the recipe that we used to use was we would juice a boatload of carrots. Uh I would then take uh cardamom uh and we would hit it with the uh blender.
+
+[36:20] We make this carrot cardamom liquid, uh, strain it, uh hit it with a rotor stator to make sure all the particles are small. Then we would add uh sea salt uh basically to taste, but roughly see seawater quantity. Now the trick is to get oysters to feed, they can't be too cold. So in the at fridge temperature, it's not uh co it's not it's too cold, the oysters won't feed. Uh so you want to leave it.
+
+[36:42] Yeah, you want to leave them out uh for a little bit to let the let the oysters start feeding. You want to be completely undisturbed. If they hear rapping or tapping, then uh they won't open up and feed. And when we got good at it, we were getting something like 70, uh, 75% of the oysters would uh would open up and eat. Now here's the other thing.
+
+[37:01] They won't die uh you want to make sure it's well oxygenated, right? So blending right beforehand is good because it increases the oxygen level in the uh in the liquid. Okay. So you don't you don't want it to be you want it to be cold, not too warm because that's gonna drive off oxygen, but not too cold so that they feed. The other trick is you don't want to let them s uh go too long because an oyster physiologist once told me that uh there are things that can grow inside of an oyster that are not toxic to it, so won't kill it, but will can be toxic to you.
+
+[37:27] So I try to keep my infute my oyster eating period in um within the safety zone of food. So I keep my I usually try to keep my feeding period down to about two and a half hours, uh somewhere in that range, two and a half, three hours, keep them in that in that danger zone. They're alive still, so I don't consider a real danger zone. Then I ice them down immediately and then shuck them to order. Okay, okay.
+
+[37:50] That's that sounds great. Because I tried leaving them um in uh in the fridge overnight in in pure carrot juice just to see. And uh and they didn't really feed. Um I was kind of disappointed because they didn't there wasn't like visible carrot juice, you know, replacing their their natural juices inside. It was, you know, I could taste them, they're a bit saltier.
+
+[38:12] But uh that was in a cold, cold, cold fridge. So, if you're gonna never opened up. Right, too cold. In fact, that's why they do so well in the fridges, they clam up, they don't open and they're and they're and they're they're good. So you're talking like say I take my I have some beet juice uh sitting waiting for me at work.
+
+[38:26] I'm probably gonna get do another test this afternoon. So I'm gonna have that beet juice at almost room temperature, basically. I wouldn't go too high. Yeah, I mean like fifties, sixties are good. You don't want to go too high, or you know, uh, or you could be growing things like vibrio and all all these other things, but yeah, like fifty, fifty-five, sixty.
+
+[38:44] Like in Celsius, uh, what what is that? Uh oh. Like say like like a fridge, we keep our fridges at about four. So say you're talking like twelve degrees? Yeah, like in that range.
+
+[38:57] I wouldn't worry about it if it gets up, but like yeah, somewhere between twelve and eighteen, somewhere in there. Okay, okay, that's cool. And then and she's talking about two hours at that temperature. Yeah, yeah, two hours. Once they're at that temperature, like two hours, two, two and a half, and then ice them right down.
+
+[39:12] Yeah, perfect. Okay, I'm gonna try that this afternoon. All right, let us slip. Can I hit you with one more? Yeah, sure.
+
+[39:18] Um completely unrelated. I make uh a pine nut butter, or well, I've actually lots of different nut butters. At the moment, it's uh pecan, is what I'm doing. And uh it always breaks in the uh in the robo, and then I bring it back together and multify it by hand after. You have any uh tips, pointers for for smoothness?
+
+[39:36] What do you mean it what do you mean it breaks? What what's the what are the what are the ingredients? Are you adding extra oil to it? Uh I'm adding uh a little bit of uh caramel for sweetness, and uh I usually have to add a few drops of oil just to get it to to spin around in the uh in the robo coupe. Um is is my uh weapon of choice.
+
+[39:56] Do you have a champion juicer? I mean the natural oils come out of the nuts besides any oil that I add, but I find I can re-emulsify that with a whisk and some water by hand after. Yeah, do you have a champion juicer? Uh I have a juicer, I'm not sure what mark it is. Uh I mean, is it the kind that has the masticating, like a tube and the stuff comes out?
+
+[40:14] Because that's great for nut butters. That's what we use to do our pre-grind on nut butters, and then if we want them finer, we put them in a RoboCouper Vitaprep, and then after that, we put them into a wet grinder if we want them really, really, really fine. But ours didn't used to break, did they, Stuz? No. No?
+
+[40:30] I mean, uh, we have a nice juicer, but I don't know if I want to break it if uh that's like what what roasted nuts are gonna do to it. Oh, no, no, no, no, no. No, no, no, no, not break the, although I did break one once, but I was doing many, many, many, many, many nuts. Uh of course we were overheating the RoboCoos a lot. We were doing a lot of work.
+
+[40:47] We were making for like big events, we would make like big batches of nut butters uh and nut oils, actually. But uh we did have to add for some nuts, depending if they had low oil content. But I don't uh I don't know why they're breaking on you. I mean, you could add some, yeah, you could add an emulsifier, uh uh uh a water, you know, a an oil-loving emulsifier, for instance, less than or something like that, would probably buy it together. But I don't know what the emulsifier of choice is and things like peanut butter.
+
+[41:13] I have to look it up. We don't we never added any liquid at all to it, except for the small amounts of liquid in the form of simple syrup, right, Stas? Yeah, yeah, yeah. Well, that's kind of what I'm doing. And I I even boil my simple syrup like till it's almost caramel stage, because I figured less humidity is probably a good thing, right?
+
+[41:30] Uh yeah. You know, uh and you know when you process hard, you should you could probably add like a super finer powder, it'll eventually probably break down. I mean, that's quite the wet grinder we used was for. You could probably get away with it with no added, and then you notice it gets really hot when the robo runs a long time. You flash off a good amount of the water.
+
+[41:47] You know what I mean? Like if you run it long enough for it to get hot. Uh, but we never had a break. I'm trying to think. I'll I'll I'll I'm gonna I'm gonna put that on the list of things to try and try and look into.
+
+[42:00] Okay, all right, great. Well, I look forward to uh trying those oysters this afternoon. All right, uh let's know let's know how it works. Tweet tweet your results on in. Uh we'll do.
+
+[42:09] All right, cool. Uh got a question from Daniel in Illinois. Hi, Nastasha and Dave. I want to make Leela's Thai style sriracha sauce from She Simmers.com, which is like, you know, one of the good, you know, Thai uh Thai Thai slash American, Thai Merican blogs. Anyway, uh and give it uh as gifts this Christmas.
+
+[42:25] I'm wondering if it is possible to can small amounts of this stuff so that it will last longer before opening. Is there a way to figure out if and how this can be safely done? I'm assuming uh I would have to get some pH trips and probably increase the amount of vinegar and or sugar in the recipe. I do have a pressure cooker if that helps. Uh and a related question what are some of your favorite food items to make and give away?
+
+[42:44] Last year we did caramels, candied orange peel, and check's mix. This year I'm planning on roasting coffee uh and trying to do the hot sauce. Any other ideas? Roasting coffee is tough. Uh this is from Daniel in Illinois.
+
+[42:54] Uh roasting coffee is tough because uh it doesn't last very long. So if you're gonna roast it and bring it to someone's house that day, that that's good. But obviously, even like vacuum, it's not quite the same. I mean, you could vacuum pack, I guess, whatever. But anyway, roasted coffee is difficult, although fun to do.
+
+[43:06] I used to uh, you know, uh it's been a number of years since I roasted, but I used to only uh roast my own, and I love it. Of course you can get really interesting coffees from places like Sweet Maria's on the net and all that stuff. Uh I was uh I used to be uh uh uh an air popcorn uh roaster guy, uh, and then I had the the ones that were made for the purpose, and I burnt out three of them, and then I went to Whirly Pop. Anyway, enough in coffee roasting. I like to give away cookies.
+
+[43:27] What about you, Stas? Christmas? Yeah. Yeah. I like cookies.
+
+[43:31] Nastasha and I tried to give away uh like, you know, whatever that was, a thousand, two thousand cookies or whatever to uh the troops uh a number of years ago, and man, you would not believe how hard it is to give cookies to to troops. Uh but uh you know, leave that for a different life to talk about that. Uh so uh on the stuff. So I looked uh at her uh recipe, and by the way, she's also a linguistics expert, so it's uh uh not just in Thai apparently, but also in classics. So it's uh it's not uh sriracha, as most of us say, but siracha, siriracha, sorry.
+
+[44:00] It's one of our favorites, although I also found out that the one most of us use, which I call the actual name of it's uh Hui Fang's uh sriracha sauce, siracha sauce, uh is the one we call the the the nicely the rooster or actually the kitchen we call it the hot cock sauce is the one with the it's in the bottle with the rooster on the front and bright red because the bottle's clear. Apparently that's not the Thai style. The actually the one that she calls out, uh the two brand shark, I don't know, and panic, which is the one I don't know if I'm pronouncing it right, but that's the one that I got from my local Thai guy who said this is what we actually use the Panich, and that's the delicious, but not the same as the rooster brand one. So uh her recipe is more like the panic, which is delicious if you can get it. So her recipe is 24 ounces of uh red uh jalapenos or serranos.
+
+[44:42] Uh she says do not substitute any other type of pepper. Eight ounces of peeled garlic cloves, four ounces of white vinegar, twelve ounces water, sixteen ounces sugar, and uh six tablespoons of salt. Uh so and you know, you follow her recipe, but that's the basic thing. I don't think that that recipe on its own is probably a hundred percent safe. What you need to do is get a pH meter and check to make sure it has a pH of 4.5 or below.
+
+[45:03] Do not use your pressure cooker. Um, we'll get into that one second. So uh you need a pH of 4.5 or below to ensure that it's what's called a uh an acidified food, i.e. not a low acid food. Uh so just check that.
+
+[45:17] I don't count, I mean there is quite a bit of salt, that's quite a bit of salt uh in there, but I don't know that it's enough to uh to preserve it. I would go to the National Center for uh home proof food preservation and and look at their look at their things. Here's what they had to say. So I would I would take it below 4.5 and then do what's called the boiling water, where you actually cover the uh products in boiling water inside the cans and and and boil them out. Unfortunately, Jack's gonna cut me off.
+
+[45:43] I don't have enough time to fully explain uh um all all of the stuff, but I think you're right. Just get that get the thing below. And interestingly, the reason that they don't recommend small pressure cookers for canning is because all of the recipes that are written by the USDA and all the ones that have been tested by the agricultural extensions require the long heat-up time and the long cooling time of the larger canning things to get their recipes right. And they don't want to give you a recommendation. They could, but they don't want to give you a recommendation for how long to cook something in a smaller uh in a smaller thing.
+
+[46:16] Some people say, although I don't think this is the reason, that also the smaller ones they don't trust uh the accuracy of the pressure readings because the gauge doesn't go up high enough, but I think that's kind of a load of horse manure. The other thing is you need to uh make sure that if you are going to use the pressure cooker against their recommendations, that you open the lid and let it vent steam for a good 10 minutes before you allow the pressure to build up. That's gonna vent out all the air and get the uh pressure uh pressure uh working up. Um if you were to get it uh there's a it's not the same sauce, but I read a really interesting thing about uh someone who uh was using uh fermented uh pepper sauces. And you know what?
+
+[46:52] There's a lot to talk about with uh fermentation and canning, and uh maybe we should talk about that next time, huh? Sure. Because could because we're running out of time. Um get get all right. So I'll get back to it.
+
+[47:02] Uh I have a question question in uh that I'm really interested in that got tweeted in from Andrew about highly saturated fats. But since I'm probably gonna go on a 10-minute rant about highly saturated fats, uh I should probably leave that till next time. Same with uh the Harvard Lecture and Agar Agar Aggar Recipes. I'll get to you guys next week. I promise cooking Issues.
+
+[47:53] Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage Underscore Radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization.
+
+[48:17] To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening. Like what you hear so far? Support the network and become a member. Membership helps us bring you the best food radio in the world and gives you access to thousands of dollars in discounts at the sustainably minded businesses that support us.
+
+[48:45] To become a member, visit Heritage Radio Network.org today.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by the International Culinary Center. Offering courses that range from classic French techniques in culinary, pastry, and bread baking to Italian studies to management. From culinary technology to food writing, from cake making to wine tasting. For more information, visit international culinary center dot com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn.
+
+[0:23] If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Oh you dirty red. Got me on this corner. And I don't know where I'm at. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:48] This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you live every Tuesday from Roberta's Pizzeria on the Harriet Radio Network from roughly 12 to roughly 1245. And hey guys, you guys did a cover of uh Amos Milburn Victor Vicious Vodka? I didn't do a cover. Plexophonic did. No crap, really?
+
+[1:04] Plexiponic. Well, yeah, for those of you that follow this sort of thing, uh, you know, I'm a lover of the old kind of cocktail jazz phenomenon. Amos Milburn wrote a lot of good songs about uh drinking liquor, you know, a subject of which I'm fond. Uh, but we're no longer allowed to use his and it's not f for a long time a lot of our uh listeners thought it was fish is fish's vodka. In fact, not the case.
+
+[1:25] It's Vicious, Vicious Vodka. Oh, you dirty rat. But because we do not pay BMI ass cap uh fees, we can't use the original, but so that that covers awesome. I'm loving that. Yeah, it was a surprise in my inbox.
+
+[1:38] So is that uh so now we're cool? We can go back to uh I think we can I think we can use that. I mean, unless anybody wants to send in something else and one up that track. I don't know how you would, but I'm not sure. No, I mean that's it, that's perfect, beautiful.
+
+[1:48] Uh unfortunately today, not joined in the studio with uh Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. Her plane should be somewhere over Boston right now. She's flying back from Oktoberfest. Uh she was in Munich, and believe it or not, uh possibly the only human being in Munich right now who doesn't like beer. That crazy.
+
+[2:07] Like, why would you go to Oktoberfest? You don't like beer? She doesn't like any beer. I told her no. I was like, I was I said, Nastasha, look, you know, they're not gonna serve you champagne at Oktoberfest.
+
+[2:16] It's not gonna happen. You know what I mean? But luckily, we have uh Jack and Joe in the uh studio with us as usual. And today, uh crew from CNN who's uh shooting this, so we'll see we'll see what happens with that. By the way, you know what this means, Jack?
+
+[2:32] There was actually an opportunity to record on video for all time, Nastasha's vegan face. There was maybe that's why she's not here. You think so? You think she changed her flight or somehow somehow caused a delay on the on the airline so that she would not have to have her vegan face uh videoed? Maybe Joe can make a vegan face.
+
+[2:50] You think that well, Joe, do you have me? Joe, you don't uh you don't strike me as uh kind of hardcore as Nastasha is on the dislike of the vegan. No, I'm I I accept all people's dietary uh preferences. I'm not uh I'm not hater. Oh, isn't isn't that nice?
+
+[3:05] Isn't that nice? All right, listen, call your questions live to 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. Uh, but let's get to some of the uh questions on uh the email. Okay.
+
+[3:16] Uh Kevin Scott wrote in and he enjoyed our uh suggestions on centrifuges. He says, Thank you very much for answering my questions about centrifuges a couple of shows back. Based on your advice, I've ordered a headache Rotanta 460R, which should be delivered in October. I'm pretty stoked and we'll post a bunch of stuff on my blogs as soon as I start experimenting and cooking with this new gear. Well, uh, Kevin, you decided to buy a pretty sweet little machine.
+
+[3:37] That's the same machine that uh I think that's the exact model perhaps that Wiley uses. Oh no, you have the R, the refrigerated. So you won upped Wiley Dufresne. Uh I think that also might be the one that uh Tony Canoyaro uses at uh 69 Colebrook Row. Good friend of ours, good friend of uh the program.
+
+[3:53] Uh so good call. I mean, expensive, a lot more expensive than my you know, buck you know, buck ninety nine centrifuges uh or uh not really. I've I have uh I've spent myself personally at least two hundred dollars on a centrifuge once, but that's about as high as I can go. Um anyway, good luck with it. I'm sure you'll love it.
+
+[4:11] It's a great machine. Uh got another question from Ed uh who wants to know about ice cream. What up, guys? Love the show. Kudos on having a uh well, there's a curse here.
+
+[4:22] Kick butt, kick butt radio show. Uh, and not ex not just because it's about cooking related stuff. Wanted to write in requesting some advice on stepping up to a large capacity ice cream freezer. I've been using the Lelo Musso 4080 for four years plus, and I can't recommend it enough for home ice cream enthusiasts. By the way, the uh the Lelo is that if the one that you've seen, it's kind of higher end.
+
+[4:42] It's uh around 600 bucks, I think. It's usually stainless steel, fits on a countertop, has its own refrigeration unit. My only gripe, obviously, with it is its batch times are around 30 minutes. Although I bet you could trick it out by really getting a cold base and not freezing quite as much. Batch time of 30 minutes, not really ideal.
+
+[4:58] You really want a batch time, you know, below about uh below 20, definitely. You know, remember the faster it freezes, the smaller the crystal size, smaller the crystal size, smoother the ice cream. Anyway, everyone apparently who has the Lello loves it. So you're not alone in your love of uh lellowness. In fact, I went and read uh a whole bunch of user review sites, and I couldn't find anyone who said anything negative about it.
+
+[5:17] Well, in the price range, it's clearly the best. Exception being good old fashioned uh rock salt and ice uh ice cream making, which is a pain in the butt, but makes some fantastic ice cream. That's that's how I do it at home when I'm not going all tech up on it. Anyway, um regarding the Lello. Uh thing takes a beating, freezes small batches quickly, and isn't too tough to clean up besides uh and besides the non-removable bowl, which is the bad part.
+
+[5:41] Anyway, uh I've been looking at used Carpagani freezers in the 40 to 50 quart batch range. Anything to watch out for when I'm buying it used and how old is too old. What the hell? You went from uh like you're going from a Lello machine to a 40 quart batch machine. Okay, so here's what I'm uh gathering.
+
+[6:00] You're opening a professional ice cream business. Now, the problem that okay, used equipment is great, except if you need to rely on it for your business. So, you know, if you're gonna get a 40 quart machine, you probably need that thing to run all of the time. Now, you might be able to find a company that bought one. Carpagani's a great brand, so I'm not, you know, don't worry about that.
+
+[6:24] But uh you you you have to make sure that the one that you're buying is I would not buy one that's really, really old because unless you have someone who's gonna refurbish that thing. If you have a professional or a Carpagani uh, you know, service person who will stand behind the machine and refurbish it, then and you know, of course, assuming it uses, you know, the normal, you know, modern refrigeration or it can be swapped to normal modern refrigeration gases, um, you know, it it could it's fine because you have someone who's gonna stand behind it and the parts are relatively available. But you have to make sure and check with other people who have the machine that the particular one that you're looking at isn't a dog, right? So, for instance, even the most loved ice cream, small ice cream machine that I've ever, you know, uh had pastry cooks talk about, which was the is a Carpegani Coldalite like Lab 100, that one has uh you know a critical expensive part that keeps breaking, the plastic uh faceplate where the draw the ice cream draw comes out of. And when that thing breaks, it's a lot of money to fix it.
+
+[7:24] Uh and you know, in a restaurant, you can stop it from breaking, but in the school, ours used to break all the time because students were brutal on it, because it's not the students, they don't care, and we're not allowed to yell yell at them, you know, uh too loudly when they do things that are rough to the machine. But uh that said, all of the parts for most of those Carpegani things are available, but it's good to ask other people who've used a particular machine to find out what parts fail, how much those parts cost to replace, and then uh making sure you can get it serviced. If all of those things seem fine, then a used machine can be a great deal. Uh and I poked around, and there are some people around who sell uh refurbished units that they'll stand behind. But uh if you need to rely on something for your business, I wouldn't uh go buy uh some because yes, you're gonna save a lot a lot of money.
+
+[8:11] The question is, can you afford to be wrong? So anytime you buy something on eBay, I mean I've gotten bitten in the butt before too. I try, you know, I I try to buy something that costs 10 grand new, and I'll buy it for you know a couple hundred bucks, and I'm hoping I can fix it. And sometimes I can, right? In fact, almost all the time I can, but sometimes you can't.
+
+[8:30] Uh, you know, you know, the biggest burn I ever got was I wanted a really beautiful inline refractometer, and the company straight up said they wouldn't support it anymore. So, you know, I would definitely not buy anything used if the company doesn't support anymore that has specialized parts, for instance, electronics boards. Because then if those things go bad, you need to buy a whole nother unit to swap out the parts in it, and can be it can be difficult. Um that said, you can get uh a great great deal. So uh it's all up to you.
+
+[8:57] It's very it's very hard to make a recommendation on this. Anyway, uh another question. Also, I've been starting to wrap my head around and experiment with hydrocolloids in my recipes. Uh lowering my egg content and adding lambda carragaen and locust bean gum. Can I disperse my hydrocolloids in a regular blender?
+
+[9:12] Any other particular hydrocolloids that you would recommend? Uh, one tip of advice I can give fried chicken flavored ice cream may get you punched in the face by one of your friends. You one of your friends literally punched you in the face when you made them the fried chicken ice cream? What did you tell them what they punched you in the face? Jack, that seems extreme, right?
+
+[9:30] Fried chicken ice cream seems extreme. Well, I mean, but that doesn't seem punchworthy. Right? No. I mean, you know, you know, I mean, like what food thing would cause you to punch somebody in the face?
+
+[9:43] That would have to be much more rancid than that. Yeah, I mean, I I mean I can I can think of one, okay, say, for instance, check this out. This was this this is punchworthy, right? So you take a rotary evaporator, which is of course the vacuum uh still that I use to do my distillation, and you can um literally deodorize without sterilizing, by the way, you can deodorize the most foul, rank, disgusting, putrid thing you could think of. Just totally rip all the aroma off of it, right?
+
+[10:12] Then turn that to turn whatever it is, your choice into an ice cream, right? And then you serve them the ice cream, and they won't know that it's some vile, rancid, putrid thing, and then you give them the distilled essence of vile. Now that you should get punched in the face for. Right? I mean that, you know, punch me.
+
+[10:31] Because, because you know, I I should probably be thrown in jail for that. That's awful. You know what I mean? Fried chicken ice cream, maybe the guy doesn't like it, but you know what, you gotta watch out. Your friends are your friends are too violent.
+
+[10:42] Your friends, too violent. Uh, anyway, um, on the carrageenins. Now, uh, carrageenins are a class of seaweed-based hydrocolloids, polysaccharides, and uh they have they're used quite often in ice cream because uh they react with milk, they have a synergistic reaction with milk. And what that means is you can use a very small amount of carrageenins to um enhance your ice cream. Now, there's three basic styles of carrageenin out there.
+
+[11:09] There's kappa carrageenin, which is brittle, uh, and you wouldn't you wouldn't want to use kappa carrageenin because you're not looking for something brittle. It's more that's more sets like more like an agar gel. In fact, it's very, very closely related to agar, although it's heating uh you know, just you know, properties are different. Iota carrageenin is a great one. Well, you might mean what am I saying?
+
+[11:29] Of course they use kappa carrageen. They use caparin all the time. You wouldn't want to use a lot of it. You're not trying to gel it hard. Uh iota caragenin is interesting because uh it will reform a gel after it's set and been sheared.
+
+[11:40] It's also very, very soft. So a mixture of kappa and iota are great for things like uh fake tofu set flavors or puddings, right? Great. Uh lambda is the third one, it doesn't actually gel, but it provides a creamy kind of mouthfeel. So if you're want to just increase increase or make more creamy the mouthfeel of the melted product, lambda is gonna be fine.
+
+[12:03] It'll also make it a little thicker, which will probably slow the meltdown characteristics of the ice cream. Typically, you include some other carrageenans in it, like uh iota or kappa, and in fact, carrageenins are standardized based on the application. So you could probably find a blend of carrageenins from a manufacturer, CP Kelco is the one that I usually deal with because they have a very wide range of it that's specifically blended for a certain set of ice cream properties. Now, uh carragenins in ice cream are typically there to modify the crystal properties to stop it from recrystallizing and have the crystals get big over time and to make it smoother and to prevent uh meltdown. The secondary thing that you add to it, like locust bean gum or guar gum, is usually there to prevent within the gel structure of the carrageenin to prevent the water or the whey from the water from leaching back out and uh ruining the texture of the ice cream.
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+[12:54] It's called whey off, you know, with a with a not way like you know Uno Botella whey, way like W like whey protein and milk. Anyway, um so that's why they usually use two gum systems. They used to use guar a lot, but as I've said on the show many times, guar is now extremely expensive because the fracking industry wants so much guar. So fracking is uh, you know, where you inject high pressure liquid into rocks to shatter them so that you can get more stuff out like petroleum. And guar has this cool property that it reacts with borax, right?
+
+[13:24] Uh and when you react it with borax, it forms a gel, but the gel is pH dependent. Now you can't use this for food because you're not allowed to use borax and food anymore, even though it used to be used for things like caviar and whatnot. Anyway, uh, so it makes this gel. Here's why you want to do this, right? So when you're fracking, this has nothing to do with food, don't worry about it.
+
+[13:41] When you're fracking, what you want to do is put something like uh silica sand, which is called the propine, and that's going to keep the when you when you bust open a crack in the rock when you frack it, you need to keep that frack fracking crack open so that when the liquids come up, right, you can get them out. So you have to pump into the high pressure fracking uh fluid this uh like like grains of sand almost or silicates, but you need to carry them, and so you need something that's thick. And so they use guar that's been interacted with borax so that it will uh be a thick gel that they can pump it under high pressures. They then change the pH when they're done, and the guar melts away to a liquid. That's why they use so much guar when they're when they're fracking around.
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+[14:20] Do you know that one, Jack? I had no idea. There you go. And uh Jack, of course, and apparently the network in general, anti-fracking. Yeah, we can have that discussion later, but anti-fracking.
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+[14:30] Well, you know. Say for the most part, you know. Well, you have a like a giant no-frack sticker on the window as you walk in, so I'm assuming you're, you know, anti-fracking. Most of uh most of the network is anti-fracking. You do we actually have a pro-fracking comp.
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+[14:42] I mean, I'm anti-fracking. I don't even know anything about the environmental issues, but I want my guar to be cheaper. So that's your piece. Yeah, I'm uh I'm the I'm the ice cream loving uh anti-fracker. You should leave that charge.
+
+[14:54] Well, because you know guar, uh guar and locus bean gum are extremely closely related. But guar has the cool property that when it's mixed with locust, uh when it's mixed with um uh gel-an gum, low acyl gel an gum, which is the one I use, forms an ice cream that both can be lit on fire, which is awesome. Uh, but also uh not not because it's combustible, not big, but because you know it it uh it it's a fluid gel, so it won't melt down. It's it's great brûle label ice cream. And and you know, I know gel and every chef does uh an ice cream that you can brute with uh Kelko gel F.
+
+[15:26] But the cool thing about the guar is when you add guar, it also gets a stretchy snappy kind of a characteristic, which is characteristic of Selepton Derma, the Turkish uh orchid ice cream, which you know, four or five years ago everyone was trying to duplicate. Anyways, uh so there you go, guar. But really cheap guar, uh really tastes terrible. It's beanie, it tastes like uh kind of like uh black-eyed pea flour, which I love black-eyed peas, but not the flour. Anyway, uh okay.
+
+[15:50] Uh so yeah, I would try other things like try locust bean gum, try doing a fluid gel, try adding a little bit of gel in. Small amounts of gel-an will really, really, really increase uh the holding time, i.e. decrease the meltdown of your ice cream, and it makes them absurdly smooth. Just look up Calco Gel Flo ACL gel an uh uh fluid gels, how to make a fluid gel with it. They're ridiculous, ridiculously smooth, the smoothest ice creams I've ever made.
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+[16:16] The problem is add too many stabilizers and you decrease the flavor release. So a lot of people think gelato, for instance, is this all natural lovey dovey, no blah blah blah stuff. In fact, it's the most highly stabilized stuff in the world, which is why it has that texture, and which is why they have to add so much freaking flavor to gelato, because otherwise uh the flavor would be masked. Okay. What do you think, Jack?
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+[16:37] Is that a good answer? Yeah, definitely. Let's take a break. Oh, okay. Going to our first commercial break.
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+[16:41] Call your questions to 7184972128 cooking issues. So I could love you twice as much as I do. I wish I were twins. For us to idolize you each time I face you with two hearts twice as true. What couldn't full lips do when four is you say that I'm yours, da-da-da.
+
+[17:07] I wish that I would twins. You grip big baby kins, so I could love you twice as much as I do. I wish that I would twins you good big baby kin. So I could love you twice as much as I do. I'd have four loving arms to embrace you.
+
+[18:01] The International Culinary Center is a proud sponsor of the Heritage Radio Network.org. The ICC with locations in New York and California provide cutting edge education to future chefs, restaurateurs, and wine professionals. We're proud to claim Dan Barber, Bobby Clay, and David Chang among our honored alumni. This is Dorothy Cann Hamilton from Chef's Story. Check out our ICC website at International Culinary Center.com.
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+[18:30] Is that you guys with the music? Yeah, you know. Is that like ham what is that? Like some sort of hammer dulcimer thing? What is that?
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+[18:35] Dramatic flourishes. We didn't make it. That was a friend of mine. Really? Or is in Kansas City?
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+[18:39] Yeah. I'm just not used to hearing Dorothy talk with the with the kind of you know inspirational stuff behind her. Like that. Crazy. Nice.
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+[18:47] Alright. So uh it you had a Twitter question coming in? We do have a Twitter question. So this one's coming from C Schneider, it seems. I don't know how to pronounce that.
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+[18:55] Prime Rib cooked in circulator. Suggested time temperature. If cooked chills, should I reheat from room temp or tight from fridge? Alright, so here's the thing. Uh here's the issue.
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+[19:06] The question is, how are you gonna serve this thing? I think I probably have mentioned this on air. I mentioned it in every sous vide low temp class that I ever do. Uh the last thing on earth, you want to do is cook an entire prime rib low temp and then just do a flash sear on the outside and carve it and serve it because you have one huge field of pink meat all all the way across. I'm sure I've mentioned this before on the air.
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+[19:28] I ruined uh Christmas once at uh at my mom's house by doing that. I mean it ruined I mean in my family though, if you ruin the prime rib, you ruin Christmas. And it was perfectly cooked all the way across, but nobody wants a perfect field of uh one texture of meat all the way across. So it you can do the whole prime rib low temp if you're going to slice it into steaks and then uh and then sear them off because you have crust on each side, and then it's beautiful. And in fact, that's the way I cook rib steaks.
+
+[19:58] So for ribsteaks, I mean, and I think I've given it before, but for just a rib steak, what I would do is uh optionally sear it beforehand, uh put it in a Ziploc bag with uh a little bit of melted butter, circulate it at fifty either 55 Celsius or 55.2 Celsius for you know a couple of hours, drop the temperature to 50 Celsius for a half hour to 40 minutes, right? Don't hold it too long because I can't recommend as a safe, you know, holding temperature 50. Uh pull it out of the bag and put it onto something hotter, hotter than you know, hot the hottest thing you can find. Typically the hottest thing you can find in a house, unless you have a really butt-kicking grill or a deep fryer or a smoking hot cast iron pan, typically the hottest thing you have is not hot enough. So I'm talking hot, really hot to put a fast sear without overcooking it.
+
+[20:46] And the reason you drop the temperature down to 50 is so that you can get that good sear. So that's a steak. Now, let's assume you're talking about a roast. What you should really do is use a technique I call uh low temperature for insurance. And what I mean by insurance is cooking insurance.
+
+[21:01] So uh you might want to put an initial sear on the outside of the meat just to kill bacteria and start flavor development. Um circulate it. You could do it in a Ziploc bag, you could circulate oil if you have one of the old school uh fryers, and do the entire rib, the rip the rib roast to 55, 55, 2. And probe test it or use one of the programs like Sous vide toolbox that you can get on the internet to figure out how long it's going to take to get it up to temperature and give it a little bit longer than that so it's cooked all the way through. Now the entire rib is cooked all the way through.
+
+[21:34] Okay? That's why I call it now you don't have to worry anymore about the inside of the rib. Because when you're cooking a rib in a traditional way, you have two different problems you're working with. You're working with getting a good crust on the outside, and you're working with making sure that the inside is cooked, but not overcooked. So it's two separate problems.
+
+[21:54] So by doing the initial cook step, the low temperature step, you have gotten rid of that first problem. You know the inside of the meat is cooked. Now all you need to do is worry about the crust. Take it out of the bag. You can refrigerate it all the way down if you want to and cook it on a later day.
+
+[22:08] Just make sure it stays sealed in whatever you want. You don't want a lot of oxygen touching the already cooked uh fat and meat. Okay. Now you could also just drop the temperature uh or by pulling the roast out and letting it sit for an hour or so before you do your final roast off in the in the oven or you know, any one of these things. But once you let it cool down somewhat, now crank your oven so it's screaming hot and just put the roast in, and now all you're worried about is developing a delicious brown, crunchy crust with a little bit of the overcooked stuff on the outside that we all actually love.
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+[22:44] You know, as much as I talk about low temperature cooking and getting all the cooking stuff right, the best part of a hammer or a roast is that like kind of overcooked, crackling fat stuff around the outside. Let's let's be honest. Uh, as long as there's a whole bunch of juicy, delicious stuff on the inside as well. And so you know, that technique is low temperature for an insurance where you've ensure that you've cooked the inside properly, but then uh make sure that you get a nice delicious crust on the outside is the technique that uh I'd use. Did that answer the question, Jack?
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+[23:13] I think I answered the question. I think more than enough, yeah. Yeah? Definitely. All right.
+
+[23:17] Uh got a question in from uh Andrew. I'm gonna I'm gonna mispronounce your name, Andrew. Andrew Janjigjan. Janjijan. Janjajan?
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+[23:27] That's not it. Really? Well, you come here and look at it at the next break. You tell me I got it right. And Andrew, you write in, tell me how to pronounce.
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+[23:33] You know what? You know who you know who one of my favorites is writes in all the time? Rob Trepas. You know why? Because he knows I can't pronounce anything properly, and he put Trepas pronunciation, so now I see his name and I just think Traypa's.
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+[23:45] See? Nice. See? Just me or TreyPaz sounds like something that could be delicious. Well, it does because it sounds like it does.
+
+[23:53] But it reminds me of creepies. Remember creepas? They're those like uh really kind of like like really saturated color, oily crayon suckers. Oh but imagine if they were delicious and edible, that would be Trepas. Right?
+
+[24:07] Yeah. Yeah. Crepas to Trapas. Anyway, uh, so Andrew, we'll just call him Andrew. His Twitter handle is at wordloaf, which I can pronounce.
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+[24:16] Uh has a question for us that I was supposed to get to last week. Why are highly saturated fats better for frying slash crispness? Is it just better stability slash smoke point or something more? Thanks. Okay, I love this question.
+
+[24:29] I love it because I don't think you can say that there's any one fat that is the best fat for frying. There's okay, so look. High okay, so saturated fats are fats that uh that where all of the carbons and the fatty acid are uh fully saturated fats, or ones where all of the carbons are joined by single bonds. An unsaturated fatty acid is one where there's double bonds in the carbons. And you know, a monounsaturated means one double bond, and polyunsaturated means multiple double bonds.
+
+[24:59] Now it's the saturated fats, right, are the more plastic more plastic, i.e. solid fats, because the the more saturated something is, uh the higher the melting point, right? For a given length of fatty acid, right? Because fatty acid chains are measured by how many carbons long they are, and then after that, by how many bond double bonds they have in it, and then after that by where in the chain the double bonds are. Okay.
+
+[25:23] So it is true uh that uh the saturated ones have a higher melting point, and they're the solid fats. And the double bonds in unsaturated fats are much more reactive to oxygen, and it's oxidative breakdown that causes rancidity uh and all sorts of other you know issues that make oil taste bad. So, you know, in a world where you're going to abuse your fat, right, theoretically, saturated fats are going to last longer. It doesn't always work out that way, though, right? What I really want, what I really focus on when I'm choosing a fat is not the smoke point really, although it's important to have it, you know, be the smoke point to be high enough that it's going to break down.
+
+[26:05] It's not even how long the fat is going to last, although again, crucially important from an economic standpoint and making sure you can at least make it through tonight's uh frying. The crucial thing you need to first decide is what am I frying and how am I eating it? Let me give you an example. Uh donuts, when they're hot, always taste good, right? I mean, I've said this many times on the show.
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+[26:27] Uh, like any any fool monkey can make a hot donut that tastes good, right? Also, yeast-raised donuts are much easier to make taste good than a cake donut. And the reason is that it has to do with oil absorption. So a cake donut absorbs much more oil from the fryer than uh yeast uh raised donut does. And so the quality of the oil makes a big difference.
+
+[26:53] Now, hot donuts, like most hot fried things, as long as the oil is of good quality, right, uh, are delicious. Let's be honest. Frying is God's cooking technique, okay? But um as they cool, right? If you fry in a liquid fat with a donut, it's gonna taste greasy.
+
+[27:12] And as you eat it, you'll get that greasy feeling on your mouth. What you want in a cold donut is for the oil to solidify for it to be a fat. So when you're frying donuts, you use solid fats, right? Now, when you're frying a potato chip, you need a liquid fat because what you don't want is the waxy feeling of a solid fat when you crunch on a potato chip. So, no matter how stable a solid fat is, if you're frying a potato chip, which is meant to be eaten cold, you use a liquid fat, right?
+
+[27:45] So, whether a fat is better or worse depends on the application. I'll give you an example of how hardcore this is. I don't know whether I've ever spoken about this on the air before. If I you know, if I have just to turn down, you know, whatever, just stop listening. But listen, uh if you remember wow, which is OLESCRA that you know came out, I don't know, about 20 years ago or something like that.
+
+[28:04] Um it was being licensed by the Frito Lake Corporation, and they were putting it into potato chips. Now, a Lestra is a fat that you can't digest, right? It's modified fat that you can't digest. And they can literally turn any any fat uh into OLESTRA. They could modify it such that you can no longer digest it.
+
+[28:21] Now, if you use l uh a liquid-based olestra, right? So it's so it's uh unsaturated, it's you know, it's a liquid at room temperature or liquid at body temperature, actually, more importantly. And here's where it's gonna get gross. I'm sorry, people, but if you eat a lot of olestra that is liquid at body temperature, to put it politely, it runs straight through you and you can't stop it. Hopefully you understand what I'm talking about so I don't have to get more graphic with you.
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+[28:48] Uh so the solution, right, and because of that, OLEST got a really bad name and nobody wanted to eat it, and the product ended up dying, right? Uh, but the solution to that was they used a uh uh fat that had a very high solid fat index, SFI, which is how you rate fats, solid fat index or solid fat content. They had one that raised a very high SFI at body temperature. Now, the downside of that is that the potato chips that you made with it were extremely waxy, so that when you ate them, they had a waxy mouthfeel. It was such a problem that they built special impingement ovens that would blow air down on the potato chips as they were coming out of the line, and that would blow the surface coating of Olestra off of the top of the potato chip so it wouldn't have a waxy mouthfeel.
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+[29:35] So everyone who complained about the Olestra chips that they could taste the Olestra, it's not that you could taste the Olestra, it's that you don't like potato chips cooked in a solid fat. Okay? So uh so anyway, so that's that. And I've complained on the air many times uh about cooking oils uh and the fact that um what you buy in the supermarket is is basically just a refined, bleached, deodorized fat. And that that's basically that's as that's how they, you know, that's how it's termed in the biz refined, bleached, deodorized fat.
+
+[30:06] Uh and they're not that tweaked out. So if you buy a liquid like that in the supermarket, they tend to be poor, you know, fairly bad frying oils because they're not that protected against oxidation. Uh and they're just they they break down fair fairly quickly, no matter what the source is on those liquid fats. The fats that I use to fry in are super tweaked out. So a lot of them are lightly hydrogenated, which means that they only take the double bonds out of the uh most reactive uh species.
+
+[30:37] So as you're hydrogenating something, you can actually uh hydrogenate only the most reactive species and therefore increase the oxidative stability of the rest of the oil. They also have uh all sorts of uh uh you know awesome stuff like antioxidants added to them, and consequently, commercial fry oil isn't like two times better. It's like ten times better from a stability perspective than the crap that you're buying in the supermarket. Another thing that people don't think about the freshest, and this has nothing to do with the question, but I just want to say it. The freshest uh oil isn't the best oil.
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+[31:08] You've all noticed that there's a sweet spot in frying. And the reason is is as you're frying something, uh a layer of steam forms around your food, and and there's a water, uh there's a and also your food has a lot of water in it. And oil and water, as you all know, don't like to mix, and so you actually don't get that good a heat conduction with extremely fresh oil into food. Once the oil starts breaking down a little bit, then the oil can uh it forms its own emulsifiers and can really stick, really get in there and provide a lot more heat to the food. So oil that's been used a little bit, and you know, old school cooks know this, is actually a much better, more effective frying medium, faster transferring heat energy to your food than brand new oil.
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+[31:53] And so real hardcore commercial people know exactly where that sweet spot is, and they adjust the systems, let's say in a potato chip line, so that the potato chips absorb, which absorb a lot of oil, something like 50% of the weight is you know, oil. As they go through the fryer, they're absorbing just the right amount of oil so that they're adding fresh oil all the time and never have to drain it, and the oil is always staying in the sweet spot. How awesome is that. Uh anyway, let's take one more commercial break. Call your questions to 7184972128.
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+[32:23] That's 7184972128. Every night listening to Russian Bible. Just a plaintiff little tune when baby starts to cry. Rock goodbye. My baby.
+
+[32:50] Somewhere that maybe a land that's free for you and me and a Russian lullaby. Like what you hear so far? Support the network and become a member. Membership helps us bring you the best food radio in the world and gives you access to thousands of dollars in discounts at the sustainably minded businesses that support us. To become a member, visit heritage radio network.org today.
+
+[33:19] And welcome back to Cooking Issues. We have a caller, caller, you're on the air. Excellent. I was calling with a question about iced coffee. Okay.
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+[33:36] And just brewing coffee and then putting it over ice afterwards. Oh, yes. Oh, yes. Oh, yeah. I mean, look, I have to say, like, I'm not uh I haven't done a lot of personal experimenting with uh cold brew techniques, but uh I do know from um you know a lot I brewing kinetics are really complicated and interesting.
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+[34:00] And so a couple of things happen. When you're extracting at a higher temperature, you shift uh the the different proportions of different things that you're leaching out of the coffee. Okay. So the hotter uh and and if you think about espresso, let's just take espresso. It's only think about espresso because that's something I know a lot about.
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+[34:21] The even minor temperature shifts in something like espresso can radically change uh how the espresso tastes. So we you know, anyone who makes a lot of espresso knows that if your temperature is too cold, you get a sour shot because of what's getting extracted out of it. If it's too hot, you get a bitter uh taste, what's extracted out. Um the temperature, then the temperature also radically changes how things are infused in in general, like percolation rates. Everything is changed by temperature.
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+[34:50] Um, yeah, so you're definitely extracting different ratios of things when you're doing it hot versus cold. Also, uh the what you do extract from coffee isn't uh uh stable. So when it's extracted at higher temperatures, the coffee will go through different uh kind of uh, I don't know how you'd put it, like auto hydrolysis or whatever, of the of the of the flavor components, and it will change differently from one that had never been heated. That's what I suspect. And based on discussions I've had with you, you know, coffee experts like Andrea Ily and stuff like that.
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+[35:23] This is his words, not mine. So uh, and there are plenty of people who love the cold brew coffee and plenty of people that don't, you know. Uh and you know, when I make an iced coffee, I make iced coffee with I don't drink it first of all. My wife drinks it every day. I like espresso, that's what I drink.
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+[35:40] I'm trying to try to get into loving uh other types of coffee, but but I'm I'm uh I'm you know I'm weird, I'm a weird guy. So uh but I love espresso, but when I make iced coffee, I make it from espresso. And that's to my wife's taste. But and there's no right or wrong here, but they definitely are different. Okay, thanks a lot.
+
+[35:56] Hey, no problem. Um, got a question from last week I should address. Uh Benjamin Petrazic writes in uh dear cooking issues. In your Harvard lecture, you say that the home chef should get comfortable with agar agar. Any starter recipes, either for uh dish or for a drink.
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+[36:15] Okay, so if you're using agar is another seaweed powder, I love it because you can get it in any grocery store. Buy the powdered agar, don't buy the uh flake stuff. The flake stuff's not as predictable. Uh and just don't don't buy it. Buy the powder stuff.
+
+[36:27] Uh it's just as natural, it's not any more, you know, more or less natural. Get the powdered agar. Also get yourself a decent scale, one that can do tenths of a gram because you're gonna some of the agar recipes you're gonna be using uh were are gonna go down that low. So um agar starts gelling in about the 0.2% range. So that's uh two grams per kilo, and you use agar all the way up to about uh you know 0.8 or 0.9, all the way sometimes up to 1% by weight.
+
+[36:57] So that's the range you're gonna use. Uh agar, you want to disperse agar, and remember, whenever you're using a hydrocolloid or anything, you know, that that has that has that is a large molecule, you want to disperse it, i.e. get them all separated so that they don't glom together before you try to hydrate it. So agar you put into cold liquid, you disperse it with a whisk or whatever, then you heat it up, you heat it up to the boil, and when it boils, simmer it for a couple of minutes, and then you can let the temperature drop. Now the the main things you can do with it are you can set a gel, and it's a cool gel because uh it can be reheated all the way up to about 70, 75 Celsius before it starts to break down again.
+
+[37:34] So that's pretty awesome. Two, you can blend uh uh agar gels, and I would use about a 0.8, you know, eight eight grams in a liter, eight grams in a kilo, point eight percent fluid gel. You set the gel and you blend it in a blender and it forms a puree. So you could take any liquid you want and form a puree that you can plate out into, you know, that looks awesome. It looks like mashed potato on the plate, but when you eat it, it goes to a sauce, which is fantastic.
+
+[37:58] That same fluid gel, you can make an orange juice fluid gel or uh a lemon juice even fluid gel, and then use that to reinforce a whipped cream, which is awesome. Or uh if you use a very small amount with something like lime juice or lemon juice, like 0.2 to you know, two grams in a kilo. Uh that one when you set that gel, you can use for clarification. So you take your juice, you set it, you can actually boil the agar in water and temper in the juice if you don't want to heat the juice, as long as the numbers balance out right. Set it, break it with a risk uh whisk, put it into uh like a uh cloth napkin that you tie with string, throw it in a salad spinner, hit the salad spinner a bunch.
+
+[38:38] That's like you know, poor man's centerfuge, and you'll get clear, clarified liquid out. So that's just a couple of the things you can do with agar. You can drop, you can make little agar balls like you would alginate balls, but they're solid by dropping them into cold oil, which is a technique I don't know, pioneered by I guess Sam Mason, eight bajillion years ago. But uh agar is just fantastic. It works with almost everything.
+
+[38:57] Agar has weird interactions with gelatin and stocks, so be careful of that. And agar can have weird interactions with things like cassis because of the high tannin levels in it. But uh agar is just fantastic. And if you have any more specific questions on recipes, uh give me a holler. One more tweet before the show wraps up.
+
+[39:15] Um looking for a ratio for fluid gel and cream to disperse out of ISI. Oh, all right. Well, that follows up on that. So um what you want is it really depends. So if you do just a straight fluid gel, uh agar fluid gel or or a gel and fluid gel, and you're doing about, let's say, a 0.8% fluid gel, i.e.
+
+[39:36] 0.8% agar by weight, uh, or eight grams in a kilo. Uh a straight fluid gel is gonna kind of look like weird alien slime when it comes out of an ISI. And whenever you're putting uh a fluid gel in the ISI, don't forget to put your finger over the tip and s and flick your hand down like you are trying to get the last bit of shampoo out of a bottle because the fluid gel is gonna be a gel until you put force on it, and then you can shoot it down to the bottom of the bottle and dispense it. So uh I so then I like to add it like about 50% cream usually uh or thereabouts. It depends on the punchiness of the flavor you want, but you just get an incredibly dense, uh dense uh fluid gel out of it.
+
+[40:15] Um okay, so you're telling me, Jack, that I'm running out of time. So here here's what I'm gonna say. I had a question in also on fry oil on disposal, and this Japanese uh fry oil disposal thing called katamero tempuru. And I mean you know, tempuru, I guess meaning from frying like temper. But anyway, I know nothing about it.
+
+[40:34] The question was from uh Mark Barter, and so what I'm gonna do, Mark, is look that sucker up and then report back to you next week. Uh I also got a question, two questions in from Joel Gargano uh about which vacuum machine uh he's gonna buy. And he narrowed it down to two, the Henkelman and the Samic. I'm gonna talk to him about also about cutting boards next week, uh, because I have a lot to say about vacuum machines and how to pick a good vacuum machine, and also a lot to say about cutting boards, because as usual I have too much to say about this stuff, and that's why Jack tells me I run out of time. But I got a tweet in that I just have to answer this week, Jack, if you'll let me on the way out.
+
+[41:10] Hi, Dave, Nastasha, Jack, and Joe. I love apples, cherries, and peaches. Who doesn't? But ever since I was a kid, these fruits ca fruits cause my mouth and throat to itch. I figured out that I suffer from oral allergy syndrome, which is an allergy to certain proteins and fruit, particularly in the skin.
+
+[41:25] Peeling the fruit solves the problem, as does cooking the fruit to denature the proteins. I love eating these fruits fresh, and peeling things like cherries is a huge pain. Do you have any suggestions on how to denature these proteins without actually cooking the fruit? Thanks for any advice. Huge fan of the show, Greg.
+
+[41:41] Greg, I feel you. I feel you. When I was thirty thirty or thirty-one, I suddenly developed an allergy to cherries that causes my throat to close uh when I eat them in large quantities and and and and causes itchiness. Certain apples also cause this to be. Thankfully, it hasn't happened with peaches yet.
+
+[41:59] Um First of all, I don't know if you know this, but uh different apple varieties have different widely different levels of the allergens in them that cause your throat to itch. So certain apples you might be okay with and others you don't, and there's a scientific paper that was never written, you know, right Susan Brown up at Cornell, who's doing the research, they know which varieties are more allergenic than the others, but I haven't been able to find public uh you know research on it, publicly available research on it anywhere. Uh but uh fresh cherries, which I can no longer eat, I think are kind of you know, uh possibly the greatest fruit in the world. I love them. Uh and I can't eat them, and to me, cooked cherries are not even cherries, it's something else.
+
+[42:41] It's like cherry pie filling or something. There's nothing like a fresh cherry, and I can't have them anymore. Um yeah, I I do not know any way, but anyone, anyone out there who has any solution to this problem, some sort of anything that can bind to these proteins so that Greg can have the stone fruits and I can have my cherries again. Let us know. Cooking issues.
+
+[43:11] Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritageradio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization.
+
+[43:35] To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening. Oh you dred.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by S. Wallace Edwards and Sons, third generation Cure Masters producing the country's best dry cured and aged hams, bacon, and sausage. For more information, visit SurreyFarms.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more.
+
+[0:43] Hello, and welcome to Cooking Issues 100th episode, live on the Heritage Radio Network. Patrick Martin's found in the network, happy anniversary, Dave and Nastasia. Michael Harlan to Rakel, Food Scene Heritage Radio Network.org. Mr. Jonathan Sawyer, the Greenhouse Tavern, Cleveland, Ohio.
+
+[1:09] Happy anniversary. We got uh we got Joe and Jack in the booth and Nastasia the Hammer Lopez here! As well as Aaron from the Heritage Radio Network's development team. Oh, thank you. Thank you.
+
+[1:19] Thank you very much. Happy anniversary. We're so proud of you. You're our number one rated show with Oslin to read all these amazing comments from people all around the world being like you are their inspiration, and we're honored to have you in our humble little shipping container, Dave in Niscalcia. It is in fact a shipping container's like shut up and pour the proseco.
+
+[1:38] It's not usually this late in the day when I happen to have a ship. You made me wait till noon. What's wrong with you? Right? Were you drinking all day at Oktoberfest when you were there?
+
+[1:49] Yes. Yeah, she actually, you were thank you. You were at Oktoberfest last week during the show, right? Or flying back. You were encountering turbulence over Nova Scotia as we were having our uh our show, right?
+
+[1:59] Ultimate Aryan couple going back to Germany. I'm not Aryan. What the hell? She's like half Mexican, half Ukrainian. How do you get Aryan out of that?
+
+[2:09] Wow. I'm gonna take my beautiful eyes. Thank you. Cheers. Cheers.
+
+[2:16] Cheers. Uh uh. Sobering note today. Uh there was a woman over the weekend, 18-year-old uh in England, who was served liquid nitrogen at a bar in a glass. Uh I think that's what happened.
+
+[2:29] There, you know, it's not totally in yet. Uh, and she lost uh a good portion of her sum stomach. It was taken out at the hospital because she either consumed actual liquid nitrogen or something that was so hyper frozen with liquid nitrogen uh that it caused uh irreparable damage to the lining of her stomach. Now, um I've I've been getting a lot of uh tweet action on this, and a lot of people ask me about it. And uh the fact of the matter is is it is exactly akin to a cook taking a uh chicken McNugget out of a deep fryer with a ladle and serving the chicken McNugget with the ladle full of uh deep fry oil.
+
+[3:06] Uh clearly not a good thing. It's a horrible tragedy that this has happened, but it's completely irresponsible practice and has nothing at all to do with liquid nitrogen. I've used liquid nitrogen daily for years. Uh, you know, and and dealt with um customers. We've had, you know, both at the French culinary and at Booker Index.
+
+[3:28] Everyone knows we never ever, ever, ever serve actual liquid cryogens to people, and we never serve uh foods or drinks that are so chilled that they could cause uh frostbite or any sort of damage on uh on consumption. And it's actually not that difficult. If you're if you're a practitioner, it's not that difficult to um judge whether something has gotten that cold or not. For instance, if your cocktail has become a rock solid, this sucker is too cold to deal with and may cause damage. If you see liquid nitrogen floating around on the surface of your cocktail, there are issues and you should not serve it.
+
+[4:08] It is it it would be clear to any uh you know well-trained novice practitioner of uh uh you know liquid nitrogen use, uh, what to do and what not to do. And it's horrible that this has happened, uh, but we hear all sorts of crazy things. I've someone sent me a BBC uh report saying that technology has no place uh in bars and in kitchens. Buddies, the knife is a piece of technology or was back in the day. The blender is a piece of technology or was back in the day.
+
+[4:37] Deep fryers are dangerous. The trick is knowing what you're doing and uh you know, you know, having some common sense and respect for the safety of your customers. You know, liquid nitrogen can be used for a bunch of gimmick BS in the bar, or it can be used hopefully as we use it, which is to good effect to get the best freshest infusions, for instance, by doing liquid nitrogen muddling at the bar or by chilling glasses, where it's clearly technically the most superior way to do it and has nothing to do with uh gimmicry. So that's my little Happy Anniversary And then a related question. Got a tweet in from Ian Benz who saw the uh demonstration we did at the Star Chef's ICC.
+
+[5:17] And uh he's like, how well, how do you get this liquid nitrogen? First of all, I would go ahead and read the safety uh the safety information. It's on Cooking Issues blog. It's formatted weirdly now. We're working on it, I know, uh, but the information is still there.
+
+[5:29] Uh secondly, you get it from a welding supply shop. The cheapest way to get it is in units of 160, 180, or 240 liters in large doers. Those doers cost two thousand dollars. Uh I've purchased them used for a thousand, but uh you can also rent one for thirty-five dollars a month, and we end up paying in those large quantities roughly uh 70 cents a liter once everything's said and done, delivered. Uh it's much, much, much, much, much, much, much, much, much, much, much, much cheaper than buying smaller quantities like 35 or 40 or 50 liters at a time, where they really rake you over the coals for the uh for the uh you know fact of giving you a smaller amount.
+
+[6:05] So any welding supply shop, you give them a $2,000 deposit, they drop off a doer, do your safety thing. Don't buy the dumb hose that they want to sell send you uh or sell you to get the liquid nitrogen off. Uh just make something out of copper. I have all of the parts on the cooking issues website. All right, that's the positive note about liquid nitrogen for us.
+
+[6:22] Very nice. Anyway, it is um one of a kind in all the world. It's an honor to have you. We'll we'll leave you to be brilliant, but happy anniversary. Thank you so much.
+
+[6:32] Cheers. Cheers. Are you did you give Jack and Joe some prosecco or did you totally chef that? No. Holy crap.
+
+[6:41] Holy crap. That's bad, right? Terrible. Terrible. Call in your questions live to 718497-2128.
+
+[6:49] That's 718497-2128. Uh uh, those of you will notice that the um we did not have our wonderful cover of Vicious Vicious Vodka today, and that is because it turns out the law sucks. Is that right, Jack? I would agree with that. The law does suck.
+
+[7:05] Yeah, uh, because I love that cover. You know, we're just we're we're playing it super safe right now. We're gonna look into our uh publishing rights here and get our T's crossed and I's got it. Did I mention that Amos Milburn is dead? I don't know that any does anyone I mean, like the rights are from when like when when can we just use that stuff legit?
+
+[7:22] That's just from the 40s. Is it possible that it was run out and that no one re-upped it? 100 years. Um check in with the lawyer. Oh my gracious.
+
+[7:30] I just want my vicious vodka cover. I don't even want the original anymore. I want the cover now. All right. All right.
+
+[7:38] Okay. Question from last week I did not answer from Joel Gargano regarding vacuum machines and cutting boards. Yo, Joel from New Haven again. Hey, New Haven, sweet, right? Nastasha's sister's up in New Haven now at the Yale.
+
+[7:48] Hey, you know, Yale got like nuked in in the uh recent uh US News crap on them, crap on US News and we'll put crap on them people. Unless you work for them out there, in which case I love you. Okay. Uh looking into some new equipment. Need a workhorse of a vacuum sealer for my kitchen.
+
+[8:02] I've narrowed it down to the Henkelman Boxer 52, which is a tabletop uh model made by Henkleman. Or the Samic SV 410S. Uh double steel bar uh in a vacuum machines plus, but not necessary. Both these units have it, but I would like a large chamber to perform aeration techniques, uh, like aeration of chocolate, uh uh to fit like fitting a fish tub would be good in it. Um I also like the idea of the Vac Norm external kit on the Samic to seal up hotel pants of food rather than bagging it.
+
+[8:29] I hold things over a few days normally in bags and it would save a cost for sure. What do you think? I'll take your opinion on Best Bang for my bucks under six grand uh in terms of size and durability. Feel free to give me what you'd buy. Uh lastly, uh any kind of non wood cutting boards.
+
+[8:44] I'm sick of the standard cheapy plastic guys. And Jack, play more Bluetooth. Bluetooth. Look at that. Bluetooth.
+
+[8:51] Bluetooth. All right. Well, if you bring the bass next week, maybe we can just play some some live Bluetooth lines. Some live Bluetooth bass lines? Well, we were gonna do the putting katonka ding stuff, right?
+
+[9:00] We need that too. Yeah. Anyway, um okay, listen, here's the thing. For those of you that don't know what the hell just happened in terms of the question, let me explain it to you. We're talking about chamber vacuum machines, the things that let you do sous vide in a uh kitchen.
+
+[9:10] They're relatively expensive. Uh the real ones uh start at around two grand and go up to uh like six. Um when you're sealing something in in a professional kitchen uh and you're doing a lot of packages, what's very important is your ability to uh not spend all of your time at the vacuum machine. Someone who has a large sous- vide program tends to have a bottleneck, a production bottleneck at the vacuum machine. Why?
+
+[9:35] Because you have to put a bag in and you're running a cycle, and the cycle takes longer than you'd think. And you usually want to bag things portion by portion if you're gonna serve them portion by portion, which means you have to run a bunch of cycles. And so you're sitting there for sometimes uh a a long, long time. Nastash, how long were we bagging that time that we did those cookies for the troops? Oh it was like a it was like an eight-hour shift of bagging alone, right?
+
+[9:58] And so what you want to make sure is to spend the extra couple hundred bucks to get two different seal bars in the machine uh because it's going to chop your bagging time in half when you're doing uh large things. So when companies usually say when they say dual seal, what they what they mean actually isn't that there are two seal bars, they mean that there's two seals on the seal bar itself, which is also important because you don't want the bags to leak. I recommend getting uh seal bars, two seal bars, each one with a double seal, and have uh one wide normal seal and the other be a sever seal that's gonna cut off the flappy parts of the bag because I detest having those flappy bag parts all over everything. Don't you hate that, Stas? Yes.
+
+[10:40] She hates it. Well, she hates bags in general, and she hates anything flappy. She hates flappy things, hates uh, like for instance, uh, you know, uh weird fungal growth on leaves, any sort of flappy, leafy thing she hates. Yeah? Yeah, true.
+
+[10:53] Okay, so uh so that's what I look for first. Secondly, I'd look for uh chamber size, uh as you state. Um you have to just go look at it. I don't have personal experience with the uh Henkelman. The Samic I looked at, and uh this is no offense to Samic people if you're listening, they are uh wildly overpriced.
+
+[11:11] Samic is wildly overpriced. In fact, I asked their rep, I said, hey, Samic rep, I don't remember his name. He was a European dude. I was like, how's come your machine is so much more expensive than the comparable machine from somebody else? And it wasn't like uh, you know, this one will cook your breakfast for you or something like that.
+
+[11:29] I didn't really understand why the Samic cost so much more at that time. I don't know if it still costs more or whether they bought their prices in line with uh Mini Pack and uh Multivac. So the you know, the ones that the three companies that I have the most experience with are Kotch, which is the one you buy if you want to buy an American product, Kotch, uh, and they're they're fine. I don't like the old Kotch manual ones very much. I use that one uh at Sambar, because that's what they have.
+
+[11:53] Um Multivac, which was the market leader and probably still is in the US, and they for a long time had kind of the best programming out there, and they had such a huge chunk of the market that they didn't do a lot of work to try and maintain chef uh like love from chefs. They didn't really care about it that much. And in fact, their smaller machines have a subpar chamber size. That said, their programming is pretty good and they're pretty robo. Minipack has worked a lot on their programming recently.
+
+[12:22] Uh in fact, uh that they have a lot of good programming in the new one. The problem is that sometimes it's a little too complicated. Like you remember that machine. We're like, what the hell? How do you make it go?
+
+[12:30] Right? But I think that they're they've worked on that. And MiniPack has has very, very good chamber size for what they do. Now, the thing that you asked about the um the VAC norms, right? First of all, in everywhere but the US, what we call a hotel pan, in Europe they call a gastronorm pan, right?
+
+[12:48] So I don't know why. We call them hotel pants, they call them gastronorm pants. Now, a regular US hotel pan, if you were to suck a vacuum on it, believe me, I've tried this. If you suck a vacuum on it, it will crush. Crush.
+
+[13:01] And so it's useless uh to use uh for vacuum sealing. So Samic has made or had made for them a, if you look at it, it looks like a little ziggurat. It's a hotel pan with like steps in it, and the wall of the stainless is much thicker than a standard hotel pan. And they also make like a like a like a Lexan lid for it with a seal on it so that you can suck a vacuum on the hotel pan itself, on this vac norm, this heavy-duty uh hotel pan. And these systems are great.
+
+[13:27] Here's the secret. Uh the system itself has nothing to do with SEMIC, right? So you can buy, and I've I've asked Cambro, I've asked all the people who make uh these things every year when I'm at the trade shows. Uh you go, no one knows who I am, doesn't matter. So I go to the trade show and I'm like, hey, listen, have you why don't you make uh uh why don't you make a hotel pan here in the US that can uh have a vacuum applied to it?
+
+[13:52] And they they always look at me like I'm some sort of an idiot, like I'm a moron, you know? Well, well, let me, yes, okay, Nastasha, correct, right? Fair, but I happen to be right on this one. And uh no one knows what why uh it hasn't it hasn't been done. Um but you can just buy the VAC norms, which are absurdly expensive also from Samic, the lid and the hose, and stick it over almost any other vacuum machine uh company's stuff, so long as you can get to the hole where the air uh comes in and out of the vacuum chamber.
+
+[14:23] So in a in a in a mini pack, that hole is exposed, which sucks most of the time because uh it means it you like when air comes back in, it can blow stuff all over the inside of the chamber, but it can be useful for something like this. So don't think that just because you want a VAC norm that you have to go with Samic's machine, right? Uh I encourage you to go uh two places that have these, look at them, play with them. Henkelman, is that the one that Miravold recommends? I don't remember.
+
+[14:50] He recommended a German brand that starts with an H and I can't remember it, German or Austrian or someone who speaks German. You know what I mean? And I think it was Henkelman and he loved it uh because of the programming, but I don't have any personal experience on it. I hope this is a reasonable response. Now, on cutting boards.
+
+[15:06] Uh when you say that you're sick of the standard cheapy plastic guys, if you're referring to the very hard polyethylene guys that come in different uh color, I hate those. I hate cutting on them, I hate looking at them, I hate touching them, I hate the way that they spin around on my on my surfaces, even if I put down the wet paper towel. By the way, everyone's worried about slipping of their boards. Just put the wet paper towel down. Does everyone not know that trick?
+
+[15:27] Like a little wet towel, put it on the on your counter, not so wet, so it's a slip and slide. You put the board on top of the board stays. Duh. Anyway, I mean not duh. Well, if you whatever.
+
+[15:36] I'm just saying do that. Uh it's terrible. Why did I say it that? Why'd I say dust? Because I'm drinking proseco at 12, right?
+
+[15:41] Okay. Uh a little hyped up today. Sorry, folks. Okay. Now, the uh there's there's there's two basic uh uh higher end, but made of plastic.
+
+[15:50] Because you specified you didn't want a non-wood cutting board. I actually love wood. I love wood, and uh usually I scrub them down with uh salt at the end of the night, and I you know I'm not worried about it. There's those studies that show that uh you know that you're not gonna get sick from using wood. But if you can't, because you're in a pro kitchen, use wood.
+
+[16:07] Uh here are the two ones that I've come across. The one that everyone seems to use that I know is a product called Sandy Tuff, made by Technor Apex. Um they won't say what it is, they'll just say it's rubber. But they won't I I looked for about 45 minutes to try and find the composition of the rubber, like what kind of rubber it is, but I could not find it anywhere. And the boards themselves are hideously ugly and crazily heavy.
+
+[16:34] Uh but they um they work they work quite well. I don't feel that they hurt my knives at all. They do discolor, they can be sanded, which is nice. Uh so you could take a belt sand or two and sand them down when they go. But the thicker ones of those get really, really, really, really heavy.
+
+[16:49] They also, if you overheat them, will warp. And if you put them on accidentally on a burner, you'll get scorch marks where you put them on a burner, but most boards are like that. The other alternative is a material called uh high soft, which is polyvinyl uh acetate PVA. Uh, PVA is the same stuff that you make. Elmer's glue is made out of, and you can buy boards uh like this, and some uh it's a Japanese use them called High Soft.
+
+[17:13] You can get them at Corin and places like that. Uh they are very expensive. They aren't as heavy as I think. I mean, I've never had them side by side, but my memory, because remember we had that when we did all the Ikijime tests on the fish, we the Corinne lent us that giant cutting board for Star Chefs. Do you remember that?
+
+[17:29] Anyway, uh my memory of that giant cutting board is that it didn't uh it didn't weigh as much as the Sandy Tuff boards. Um but they are some pricey business. They're very nice, and they felt soft on the uh on the knives, uh, and they also supposedly have it, they have a nice texture, they're non-slip, and they uh they feel good. They felt good to cut on them. So I like it.
+
+[17:48] And a lot of the sushi the sushi folks uh use that. So I hope that helps. John from Chicago, you're on the air. Hey, hey Dave. Thanks for taking my call.
+
+[18:02] Um I had a couple questions for you. When you uh when you're cooking low temperature for insurance and cooling it down, I guess I I just don't know that much about um what's what's okay to do um in terms of cooling stuff down and then just searing the exterior in terms of uh from a safety standpoint. From a safety standpoint, okay. Well, m again, everything depends on on what you're doing. If you now for those of you that uh don't know, when we're saying low temperature uh for insurance, we're just cooking the product all the way through to the minimum temperature and then afterwards doing an actual full-on uh cook step on it to get a nice uh exterior, and they cooking this way for insurance tends to produce things that taste more uh like their classical counterparts, but have a lot of the benefits of uh low temperature cooking.
+
+[18:49] Okay. So it everything depends and also depends on how much of uh of a kind of a nice uh c crust and cooking difference on the crust you want. Does that make sense? So I mean if you cook a roast all the way through so that it's pasteurized, if you're let's if you're gonna cook that long to pasteurize the whole thing, then you could chill it down and then uh you could chill it all the way down to fridge temp and then it's it's you know, it's done. So you can let it come up to uh you know, ro room temp before you do your finished sear and then throw it in a hot oven and you'll be fine.
+
+[19:23] Do you know what I mean? But a lot depends on what you're gonna do. Most of the time we don't do a full cool down on a large item. Most of the time we do a um a partial cool down. Uh or you know, like you could soak it for a while at a lower temperature.
+
+[19:39] So for instance, uh Dave Chang with with his uh chicken, he he keeps his chicken at fifty-eight degrees and then does a traditional cook for fried, and does a traditional cook-off in the fryer from fifty-eight and and finds that he can get the nice uh crust without overcooking it if he's holding it at that at that temperature. So a lot depends on exactly what you're doing, but from a safety standpoint, a lot a lot depends on whether the product has been pasteurized or not. Is that make sense? Yeah, so so if I was doing uh uh a duck breast, let's say for um at 57 for 45 minutes. Right.
+
+[20:17] I I should be cooling it down at to some extent so that I can so that I can cook and crisp up the skin, right? Yeah, I duck. So that's a good specific duck breast fifty-seven for 45 minutes is actually enough to pasteurize. I mean, okay, look. Uh I feel totally comfortable with duck breast at 57 for 45 minutes because duck breasts are fairly thin, they come to temperature pretty quickly.
+
+[20:38] Uh there's no food code on on earth that allows you because they consider duck to be poultry, and so you they normally want you to hit the higher poultry numbers, which doesn't really make a lot of sense, but you know, th that is what it is. But from an actual safety standpoint, w I think you're fine. What I do usually is uh I do fifty fifty-seven forty-five, and then I put them in the in the fridge, let them cool down, and then when it's time to sear them off, I just do a higher heat than I, you know, uh uh well, I just focus the heat directly on the skin and don't worry about the center of it. And and they come out they come out great. That's a classic use of low temperature for insurance.
+
+[21:14] So I I mean I would just chill them down in the fridge and you could hold them, you know, as you would any other cooked product. And then follow up uh because I I never imagined getting stuff like uh a sous vide setup. What do you think is the next big thing for a home kitchen or what would be like the uh the invention down the road that you really look forward to? Oh, uh well, oh by the way, to go back, uh please someone, because I don't have it in front of me, double check before you say it's a hundred percent safe on pasteurization, what the thermal death curves are of uh salmonella with uh because that's what they're gonna that's what they're gonna knock you for. Uh both you I would look at all the bacteria of interest uh like how they fare over 45 minutes.
+
+[21:54] You might need to stretch it to an hour or an hour and ten minutes, depending on uh how thick your duck breast is and how long you think the internals take to get up to temperature. Just a safety note to look at it. I have it on the blog somewhere, you just have to go find it. I don't have it in my head. Okay.
+
+[22:05] The next the next big thing um I would say uh I mean, I I want it to be the centrifuge. Uh there's n there's none out there yet uh that is fantastic for uh most people at home. I'm working on it. You know what I mean? I think look, it took us ten years for the first circulator under 500 bucks to hit the market.
+
+[22:25] And now we're there. You know, now we have circulators for 350. And once you hit the 350 mark, once you're below 500, you've now jumped into a whole new planet of uh what's possible. Um yeah. My my vote would be for uh a small, small ultra customizable curing chamber that you can use for cheeses and for you know curing sausage.
+
+[22:48] That's a good idea. The the issue with it is remember with a curing chamber, you you're gonna want to develop some sort of stability over time with the uh I mean the smaller the thing, the the the more they're moved by individual batches, you know what I mean? And the less you get the effect of uh kind of the stable uh micro, you know, microflora and fauna of of uh of a of a steady big curing room. But it would be a good idea. And you know, it could easily be made.
+
+[23:13] People sell kits now, actually. If you go to Auburn Instruments, you can go to them. I've never purchased one from them, but they b they sell kits where you can control the humidity and the temperature, so you could turn any refrigerator or whatever into a curing chamber. But yeah, maybe the one that's marketed more directly, less less DIY and more marketed directly. Okay, and then uh final thing and then I'll hang up.
+
+[23:33] Uh um if you're looking to increase the flavor of a braise or a stew, what are some good tips to keep in mind? Low temp or regular. Oh, well, I uh do your initial brown properly, get a lot of extra. I you know, I usually start with a really, really flavorful stock. Uh uh, you know, as my base boil, like do some pre-reduction on that.
+
+[23:55] Um, you know, the stock with with uh with the wine, basically, you know, a bourguignon sauce uh you know thing, and then you use the right vegetable mix and pre-brown your meat before you go. That's that's that's typically what we do. Any typical other ingredient add-ons that that can kind of give you a boost? Well, I mean, if you're if money is no object, you can make the stock with something really crazy fatty and gelatinous like like like uh oxtail. But you know, that's if you have that's if you have money to light on fire.
+
+[24:24] Okay. I'll I'll look at some money, thanks. All right, cool. Thanks a lot. Break time.
+
+[24:31] Oh, break time. Cooking issues, I'll be like the product. Heritage Radio Rick. Wake up, wake up. What would you do with that be?
+
+[25:25] Like what you hear so far? Support the network and become a member. Membership helps us bring you the best food radio in the world and gives you access to thousands of dollars in discounts at the sustainably minded businesses that support us. To become a member, visit Heritage Radio Network.org today. Edwards Surreano hams are aged to perfection for no less than 400 days and hickory smoked to achieve a deep mahogany color.
+
+[26:04] The Edwards name is well known for its world-class aged and cured meats. Their exclusive curing and aging recipe produces a unique flavor profile that enhances the quality characteristics of Berkshire Pork. Optimum amounts of pure white fat marbling contribute to a flavor that's a delicate, perfect balance between sweet and salty. For more information, visit www.surifarms.com. I don't know that I'd characterize uh S.
+
+[26:30] Wallace Edwards hams as sweet. No. No, they're delicious. What do you mean by sweet? They're not sugary sweet.
+
+[26:36] No. I mean. They're not too salty, though. No, they're not. Well, too salty.
+
+[26:42] Here's the thing, right? When people are eating American country hams, what they do in old school, the American way of eating country hams years ago, and it's forever, it's because we've we've inherited our ham eating culture from the from the Brits, right? Is that you take your cured hams and you cook them afterwards, right? And when you cook an American uh country ham, you turn it into a salt lick. So everyone's idea of uh American hams being too salty comes from this fact that they're horribly overcooked.
+
+[27:09] And as soon as you overcook it, it's it it really is horribly, horribly salty. The other problem is Americans think that ham should come in thick, thick slices. And this is not because we're used to eating city hams, and city hams you can eat in big thick slices because they're pumped full of water and they're big and they're spongy, right? Whereas American country ham was never intended to be eaten this way. It was intended to be eaten in in thin pieces, small things as a seasoning over a long period of time.
+
+[27:36] Hence the old joke. What's the definition of eternity? A couple in a Virginia ham, because they can eat that thing forever, right? And it's a good way to preserve meat and have it go. So people who think that American ham is too salty just aren't eating it right.
+
+[27:49] You don't agree with me, Jack? I I do agree with you, yeah. I I've had the uh Suriano thinly sliced and then kind of chunks of it, and it doesn't even thin. Thin. Thin.
+
+[28:00] And you know, and uh it is saltier than uh the you know European counterparts that we're used to, like Prosciutta di Parma and things like this. Uh but uh American ham is its own thing. It is what it is, which is why, and I'll say it uh again, even though I probably said it ten times on this show, uh Sam Edwards from S. Wallace Edwards, even though I like him and I love his ham, his you know, the wigwam and the one that they do for with heritage meats that Berkshire wanted to do is delicious. I wish he wouldn't call it Suriano.
+
+[28:27] I wish he wouldn't reference a European ham at all because his family has been curing for hundreds of years in uh you know in in that area of Virginia, and it's a product unique to itself and shouldn't be compared to anything else. It's a delicious product. I love it, you know. I hate the fact that it's compared to a European product. Jax has nothing to say about this because it's a sponsor now.
+
+[28:47] Look, it's like whatever. I like you know, I I I I like I like the product, it's a good product. If I I'm gonna throw in my two cents and don't get the country ham at Waffle House. Okay, that's fair. You know, the the thing that people don't realize about country ham is that uh for many, many years it was seen as a commodity product.
+
+[29:04] And so country ham producers over the decades after World War II uh made a cheaper and cheaper product because it was seen that cost was the driver, and they kept on losing their market to city hams, and people are eating more and more of these spongy city hams. And so country hams are really dying out, and to try and stay ahead, people would try to you know make it cheaper and cheaper, make it cost less and less, push the cure time shorter, and uh uh you know, a few people stayed around and made kept on making the product the old way, and we're really keeping an uh you know a national uh a national food cultural tradition alive, an important one, I think. And that's why years ago, uh, you know, actually when I f we first started first started the you know museum of food and drink, one of the first things I focused on was American country ham and how we're eating it wrong, and how a modern way to consume it is to eat it the same way we eat prosciutto, which you're seeing now a lot of places like uh Ike Sambar, who has a uh you know a ham program now, but years ago, people weren't doing this with American country ham. And I think that's what's the the the new way of eating it, and these ham producers I think now realize, you know, it's the the Nancy Mahaffey's from Colonel Newsom, the the Sam Edwards from S. Wallace Edwards are realizing that it's the kind of this new consumption mode is is uh you know good good news for for uh country hams uh all over the country.
+
+[30:21] I don't know, whatever. Country ham, love it. Okay. Brian writes in from San Francisco about fruit in Hawaii. Hello, cooking issues posse.
+
+[30:29] I'm going to Hawaii over Thanksgiving and want to taste some yummy tropical fruit. Is there a Brogdale equivalent in Hawaii, i.e. a tasting farm? If not, which fruit should I be seeking out and where? Uh mostly being kawaii.
+
+[30:40] Now listen, Brian, I sorry to say I have never been to Hawaii in my my whole life, uh, although my wife was born there. It's one of the places I want to go. You ever been there, Stas? No. No?
+
+[30:50] Be nice though, right? I mean you can take a vacation. Nah. Anyway, but like it's I I like I hate uh I've said this many times. I hate tropical paradise, except for the fruit, right?
+
+[31:00] And so like I'd love to go to Hawaii and and try the fruit, but uh unfortunately I don't have any real recommendations because I haven't been there. What I would do is I would go to the uh Hawaii Hawaii Tropical Fruit Growers website and uh try to get in contact with them and see if there's anyone that they know. There's a really good website that I've used, well, not good from a design standpoint, not that we can talk because our thing is c always broken, but she has like uh he or she. I don't know why I said she, I don't really know who it is, but they have like this weird space thing in their website, like you know how like websites have like that weird spacing with the stars and the Milky Way behind it, so it makes it hard to read and all the writings in big bold yellow stuff. You know what I'm talking about, Styles?
+
+[31:36] And then like rainbow writing and like weird pictures and stuff. Well, this website's like that, but aside from that, great information, great varieties of fruit, and also v awesome, awesome links. Some of the best links on tropical fruits that you can get on the internet. And it's www.fruitlovers.com. And they have nursery and they sell fruit.
+
+[31:54] Uh unfortunately they're closed uh from October till December 15th, so you're out of luck for Thanksgiving visiting those guys. But uh try to contact some of these people and find out where to go. I'm sorry that I don't have any kind of a better information. Nastash's like, yeah, you're useless, pretty much. Right?
+
+[32:11] Yeah. Right. Uh Tony Heron writes in from the mixing bar team in Brazil. Uh hello, Jack, Joe, Nastasha, and Dave. Congratulations on the hundredth show.
+
+[32:20] Wow, what a great journey. Thank you. Uh have to is that is that stay that's obligatory, Jack? I knew 100 meters, by the way, too. Well, we'll try to unfortunately later on in the show we have uh something that's a hundred degrees Celsius, and so you uh we better you know keep track of when it's a hundred degrees and when it's a hundredth show, or it doesn't matter.
+
+[32:39] Well, we'll see, we'll see what happens. Uh thank you very much for all the hints, great ideas, inspiration, and good laughs. Keep up the outstanding work. Well, thank you very much. I've got a cook uh a few questions about Pectanex, which is an enzyme that breaks down pectins.
+
+[32:49] We use Pectanex Ultra SPL from Novozymes. Uh, I've got a few questions about Pectanex for Dave. Uh not too long ago I got some Pectanex from Modernist Pantry, who used to be a sponsor of our show, modernistpantry.com. Uh, but haven't had much time to play with it. We've tried enzymatic peeling as described on the cooking issues blog, but the results weren't great.
+
+[33:06] The stuff didn't peel right, and limes oxidized very quickly. I can't ruh recall the concentration for us right now, but we sealed the fruit with quite a few cuts in the skin uh and uh put the solution inside a jar under vacuum. The jar was put in a water bath at 40 degrees Celsius to activate the enzyme for quite a long time. Nothing remarkably really happened before the end of several hours, but by then the flavor of the fruit was gone. We did lemons, limes, tangerines, and cumquats.
+
+[33:29] What other cool tricks do you recommend uh for us to try with uh SPL that don't require centrifuge? Okay. Um limes aren't I've never had any good luck with limes. Uh what what you want to do, I want to see what you said here. I wouldn't make uh cuts in the skin.
+
+[33:45] Look, unless the unless the actual enzyme is in direct contact with the white part, with the albedo of the uh fruit, you're not gonna get uh very good results. So when we're working with it, if you want the peel, we peel the fruit in in you know, kind of nicely cut peels, and then bag those in a vacuum, bag them in a vacuum with uh with the enzyme, right? Then after that's done, the white will be kind of gelatinous and disgusting, the stasha won't touch it. And then we take a toothbrush and we run it with the toothbrush under running water, and all of the albedo can be kind of wiped away, right? So that's what you do with the peels.
+
+[34:19] Lime peel does not work very well. I'm just telling you right now. Oranges work well, pomelo works well, uh, grapefruit works well, uh, lemons work okay, right? Now for the fruit itself, uh, the best possible thing to do is to break is to pull the the actual fruit after it's peeled into at least halves and possibly quarters and then bag it so that the actual enzyme can get to the membrane in between uh in between the fruits. And that's when you can get the really good um you know destruction from the enzyme.
+
+[34:49] It's very difficult for the enzyme to pierce into the center of the fruit. It just does not work that way. You have to kind of break it apart. Other tricks to do with SPL, I know you're doing a bar, but if you want to do French fries, I use SPL for all of our French fry needs, right? Um, but I can't think of you can also do clarify.
+
+[35:07] Okay. Let's say you're doing agar clarification, and your agar clarification isn't working very well, right? Because you're using a puree. You're in Brazil, you're getting amazing pureees. So you don't have a centrifuge, fine.
+
+[35:18] But agar clarification, very difficult for you to do on very thick items, things like uh sour sap, aka guanabana. So what you want to do is treat the puree with SPL, right? Let the SPL sit for a long time. It's gonna liquefy the puree and make it a lot uh more liquidy by breaking down the pectin, and then your yield when you're doing agar clarification is gonna go way up. So even if you're doing standard agar clarification because you don't have a centrifuge, um, you can use the SPL to help benefit uh your clarification uh results overall.
+
+[35:51] Okay. Uh also Tales of the Cocktail, we spoke about trying to rotovat the leftover liquid from peeling. Did you ever give that a try? No. You know what?
+
+[35:58] There's so many things we need to try, and we just don't have time. You ever notice that, Stas? Yeah. How days just run away from us? How like you know, you have a day and then like you wake up and then the day is gone.
+
+[36:06] It's crazy, right? Okay. So no, I'm sorry, I haven't tried it. Uh Red from Zymergy, right, same with the problem on lamb. Hey Dave, this is the second time I've done lamb shanks with sous vide at 62 degrees Celsius for around 48 hours with uh half a percent salt added to each shank.
+
+[36:21] The first time they came out, fantastic, with no issues. Well, this uh well, this is only the second time for the Shanks. I've been doing sous vide for almost three years and have never encountered what happened to these ones. I was in Whole Foods, they were selling Icelandic lamb. Who did you know they made lamb in Iceland?
+
+[36:34] No. New Zealand, yeah. Iceland? But it's green there. Yeah, it's right, it's reversed.
+
+[36:40] It's green, but I mean, yeah, I just never knew that Iceland was a big land place. I you know, I know them from financial collapse, from Bjork, from you know, from uh, you know, power from uh what's the what's it, geothermal power, all that? Lamb, I did not know. Makes sense though, right? Yeah, okay.
+
+[36:55] Uh I bought six shanks, salted them, chilled them, and vacuumed them. I put them in a bath within the half an hour, all the bags began to bloat and float, which I'm gonna use that from now on. Red, I'm using bloat and float. That's my new term for that. Bloat and float.
+
+[37:08] You like that? Bloat and float? That tell you that like I'm never gonna do this. I was talking to Jeremiah Bullfrog, one of our chef friends from Miami, and what we need to do is start a website where it's kind of like uh I don't know, like Craigslist or something, but it's just lists of good band names that we're never gonna use, and then when people use them, they just check it off, and then you know it's used already. You know?
+
+[37:29] So it's just like a huge list of band names, or you you know, they could use it for whatever, but mostly it's band names, and then like we're like, oh, bloat and float. We just add it to the list, and then someone's like bloat and float, thanks, and they check it off. You know what I mean? It's a great idea. Yeah.
+
+[37:42] Jeremiah's awesome too. He was just here in New York. Yeah, he's a good man. So one of you guys gonna make that website? I'm never gonna do it.
+
+[37:48] Uh put it on the list. Yeah, but bloat and float. All right. Uh okay. Bags began to bloat and float.
+
+[37:53] So not knowing what happened, I took them out of the bath and placed them um in an ice bath and chilled them down for about an hour and put them in new bags. These two began to bloat and float, so I placed a screen on them and weighted them down in the bath. The only thing I can come up with is that the shanks were off-gassing or something. They were not sitting around in the meat case, they came right out of a sealed box and appeared to be as fresh as possible with no off aroma. You never know those Icelandic people.
+
+[38:14] You never know what they've added to it. Just kidding. Uh I'm as I'm typing this email, they're uh they're still in the bath, so I cannot comment on the outcome. I just turned them and the bags are not as bloated as before. So I'm still wondering what's happened.
+
+[38:24] By the time your show airs, the shank will be done, and I will follow up with an additional email to comment on their taste. Which has already happened. Uh I appreciate your passing. Oh, wait, wait. The lamb shanks came out fine.
+
+[38:35] For the most part, all the shanks came out of the bath uh indicating that they were still under uh vacuum. I have still never encountered this type of initial bloating in the bag, so any assistance would be uh be appreciated. Red. Okay. What's interesting about this problem is that your bloat happened in the first 45 minutes.
+
+[38:51] Usually uh bad bloat, i.e. bacterial bloat, happens after several hours. And the reason for bacterial bloat is if you put a bunch of bags together and you haven't uh you know pasteurized the outside of those bags first, there's bacteria in it, and because the bags are jammed together, it can take hours for the surface temperature in those bags that are clustered too tightly to get up to temperatures where they're killing bacteria. And you get lactic acid bacteria usually growing in those bags, and they inflate and they puff up, and when you cut them open, they smell awful like blue cheese mixed with sauerkraut, mixed with death, they're horrible, right? You smell those, right, Stas?
+
+[39:26] Yeah, horrible. Uh which is why typically, if you don't know why a bag is bloated, you probably shouldn't eat it. Now, if a bag bloats immediately, i.e., well immediately, within 45 minutes or so of putting it in, you're dealing with most probably not a bacterial problem. You're most probably dealing with uh thermal expansion and release of air. Now, where is this most likely coming from?
+
+[39:48] Think about it. It's two places it can come from. One, the bones in your lamb in your lamb shank are hollow and contain air. If you want to bag something with bones like lamb shanks, you're gonna want to suck a serious vacuum on it. So if your product wasn't that cold when it went into the vacuum uh chamber and you weren't able to suck a hardcore vacuum for a long time on that bone, there's gonna be trapped air inside of that bone, and then when you vacuum it, uh, that I mean when you vacuum it, the air is gonna be still there, and when you heat it, the air is gonna expand out of the bone and puff up your bag.
+
+[40:23] Which happens all the time when you uh when you do things uh with bones and bags, which is why when you have a bone in the bag and you want to do cooking, you have to suck a serious, serious vacuum on it. Uh a lot ex a lot longer than you would in a normal kind of vacuum ceiling uh scenario. The so that's you know, keep it cold and suck a good vacuum on it. The problem is if you're gonna do that on something like a chicken bone, the uh the red crud on the inside of the bone gets sucked out and goes along the meat and it never you know turns unred, and so you get this unappetizing, basically inedible from those people because visually they can't get past it. Red mark called persistent pinking around the outside of the meat.
+
+[40:59] Uh okay. So the other problem is is perhaps you had veg in with your lamb shanks, right? And the veg wasn't fully cooked. Not only there's two things. One, vegetables aren't gonna cook at 62 degrees Celsius, even if you left them in there for weeks, so carrots are gonna stay crunchy for the entire time.
+
+[41:14] But uncooked vegetables have a lot of air in them, and if you don't suck a long vacuum on it, that trapped air inside of those uncooked vegetables will also come out when you're cooking and cause the bag to bloat. My guess is 90%, I'm 90% certain that that is the reason this has happened. What do you think? Good answer, good answer. All right, should we take one more break?
+
+[41:32] No. No? Keep going? You have like five minutes. What?
+
+[41:36] You have a call at one. Oh my god. Okay. The people on air do not give a rat's behind about what calls I have at one. I don't care about.
+
+[41:43] All right. Fine. All right. Tom Fisher writes in uh regarding rib fat. Recently I tried poly science's recipe for low temperature ribs, and while the flavor was amazing, my guests were a little freaked out by the unrendered fat.
+
+[41:54] Is there any way to do a combination of high and low temperature cooking to get the best of both worlds? I was looking uh at picking up a CVAP. CVAP is uh we'll explain in a minute. A CVAP for my kitchen, and I noticed that Winston sells both cook and hold ovens and hold and serve drawers. Both are described as having the same theory of operation.
+
+[42:10] What's really the difference between the two? Thanks for all the great information, Tom Fisher. Now CVAP is a holding oven almost like an Alto Sham, but it has a Bane Marie in the bottom. And the Bain Marie heats water to a very accurate temperature. And so the whole notion of a CVAP is that they can control the difference in temperature between the water bath and the air temperature, and therefore set the humidity inside of the oven.
+
+[42:32] And so by properly setting it, you can keep all, you know, any kind of food you want at uh exactly the right condition. It was invented for holding uh fried chicken. For it was invented by uh Winston from Winston Industries for Colonel Sanders from Kentucky Fried Chicken. And so you can keep crunchy things in it by setting the humidity level right. You can keep uh, you know, you can keep moist things in it.
+
+[42:52] In low temperature cooking, we typically set it to 100% humidity and they're fairly accurate, which is why we do it. The difference between the cook and hold and uh the uh whatever the other one is called is that the cook and hold ones versus the hold and serve ones uh have more power. And so they're meant to um bring the temperature of a food item up, cook it and let it go. Whereas the hold and serve ones have less power and they're not designed to do the actual cooking. Now, with low temperature cooking, they're adequate, right?
+
+[43:24] If you're actually gonna try to, you know, mimic some of the effects of a combi oven by doing roasting, then you need the extra power from a cook and hold. Hope that helps. I don't know what the cost difference is, because I've never had to never had to research the cost difference in it. Okay. Uh Michael Sanders writes in from England about boiling baths.
+
+[43:42] Uh good afternoon, Nastasha, Dave, Jack, and Joe. First of all, I'd like to say thank you for doing the show every week. Thank you. Well, thanks for listening. I'm a longtime listener of the podcast.
+
+[43:50] I'm in London, so work commute prevents me from listening live. Uh and I regularly revisit the old episodes and eagerly look forward to a new show each week. The enjoyment factor aside, the show has improved the quality of the food I cook at home and has introduced me to some great working practices, products, and techniques. That's nice. That's very gratifying.
+
+[44:05] That's my favorite thing to hear. Thank you. Uh the reason for my email is to ask a question regarding a recent eBay purchase. I've acquired a grant SBB6 boiling bath for no reason other than it was going to uh for a bargain price of 30 pounds. 50 dollars.
+
+[44:18] Can you believe that 30 pounds is fifty bucks? I was in England the other, like very recently, and you know, everything is the same price tag there, but it's in pounds. It's crazy. It's crazy. It's like, you know, man, but it used to be worse.
+
+[44:30] Tony C. Tony Kingliar from 69 Cobra Grove, Conliaro. He used to come here and our money was like Monopoly money. He would like laugh in my face and like light money in front of me because you know, our money was so worthless compared to their uh British money. Anyway, it has nothing to do with it.
+
+[44:44] Okay. Uh I thought there might be a culinary application for which the Grant boiling bath is useful. I was hoping that it may be useful in its current working state, or that I may be able to recalibrate the unit to a lower fixed temperature, perhaps to use it as a water bath for the preparation of vegetables, freeing up a separate circulator for the preparation of the protein at a lower temperature. How do you rate my chances of being able to hack the unit to do this reliably? If this is unlikely to produce a successful outcome, can you think of a use for a water bath at a fixed hundred degree C temperature?
+
+[45:12] Secondly, what would you recommend is good practice for cleaning of lab equipment purchased from eBay? This unit is new, but all the same, I would like to clean it just in case. Plus, I'm currently bidding on a number of other units from laboratory sales, and I'm unsure what use they may have had in their previous lives. I know that you have covered cleaning on previous shows, but was hoping that a 30-second recap may be possible. Keep up the good work.
+
+[45:32] My girlfriend and I are coming uh are looking forward to visiting Booker and Dax bar next year where we are in New York for a food and drink tour time to coincide with the first New York Formula One race. Thanks, Michael Sanders. Okay. Great question. Great question.
+
+[45:46] So I looked up your boiling bath, and uh unfortunately the boiling bath doesn't work on a thermostat because it's literally boiling. So the knob on the front of your uh of your boiling bath just all it does is it modifies how much power is being introduced. So the way you're supposed to use this thing is you fill it up with water, you turn it on, you crank it, and then when it starts boiling, you turn it down until you're just maintaining a boil so you're not using extra uh energy. Cool thing about your unit is that it has a little uh hose that you can attach to it to add water to it without having to uh go do you know anything else, and it has a drain. So these are two very very useful things.
+
+[46:22] So it's six liters. So it would make a good probably you could probably uh you know make a jury-rigged uh pasta cooker out of it because it's boiling and it's got a drain, so you could probably use that drain to get the starch off the top of the of the pasta thing and keep it going. It would also be great for vegetables, even at a hundred degrees C because you're not gonna have a lot of things touching uh the bag that could cause it to break. So it'd probably be good for uh sous vegetables at that temperature. If you want to treat it as a water bath, the problem is if you're gonna do a lot of low temperature work with it, it at only six liters, it doesn't have that large a capacity.
+
+[46:55] And so you're gonna have some uh issues with it if you're trying to do large amounts of cooking in it. That said, if six liters is big enough, and you really want to turn it into a second circulator. All you need to do is buy uh any one of the uh PID rice cooker conversions that use a thermocouple, and you plug, you know, instead of plugging this sucker into the wall, plug it into the PID rice cooker converter, put the uh th, you know, the temperature probe in, and now you have a thermostatically controlled water bath. Just bypass the controls on it entirely. Um, you know, the only issue there is that these water baths that you have are unstirred, and so if you want the actual, you know, total even temperature from top to bottom, you'll have to throw an aquarium pump or a bubbler in there that's pushing some air in to move the water around.
+
+[47:39] None of it's complicated, it's all easily done. It's just a question of how much you want to do. I would love to have a you know something that could boil that's not on a fire if I'm doing vegetables because I don't really see a lot of difference in cooking a vegetable at 85 C or at 100 C. The uh, you know, the the main difference is it's difficult on a stove to do vegetables at uh a hundred and always make sure that there's no flame because you know I'm working this, there's no flame that's gonna touch the side of my bag, right? And to always make sure that you're gonna have the right level of water in there.
+
+[48:10] So if you have this cool water input that makes it sure that your level is always right and there's no flame touching the uh sides where the bag is, it could be very useful for doing things like veg. Um what do you think, Stas? Yeah, you are done. No, we're not done. It's 48 after, Stas.
+
+[48:24] Crazy head. Well, we're supposed to go to 45, so what? So buttons. I'm not even done with this question yet. I will be hey, for the record, for everyone on the air, I have a telephone call at one o'clock that Nastasha is concerned with because it's possible that I'm gonna be on air with her idol, Hoda, and she wants a good 10 minutes of me having mellow time to think about what I'm gonna say to Hoda's producer.
+
+[48:47] Goodbye to CNN, you have to say goodbye to Jack. They don't have to leave during the what am I gonna say the call for the entire the for like the next hour and a half? Anyway, so I'm gonna finish this question. Uh so about cleaning equipment, you want to make sure it depends on what the equipment is going to be used for. Anything that might have touched a biological agent, like a centrifuge, you want to make sure that you treat it with a very hardcore bleach.
+
+[49:10] Uh, and then after you hardcore bleach it, really hardcore bleach it, I try to pressure cook the stuff to sterilize it, and then I treat it with bleach again. Equipment that's going to have inorganic chemicals touching it, like rotovaps, things like this that might be a problem. You want to uh add uh, you know, we bought some hardcore glass cleaner called what was that stuff called? Sus Alcanex? Alc Alcanox?
+
+[49:31] Alcanox uh cleaner that you know strips a bunch of stuff off and just you're gonna have to rinse it like a million times to get the stuff off. You just really want to make sure you get everything off because there can be some really, really, really, really nasty business. Things that can't be there's certain things that like can't really be fixed that well, things that might absorb different uh different chemicals like rubbers and stuff. Sometimes with those, you're better off totally replacing them. Um that said, uh, you know, I always err on the side of of overcleaning and making sure that everything is eaten or melted off.
+
+[50:03] If you have metal, you can do alternate, you can bleach, and then don't do this to aluminum, but if you can do bleach and then you could do oven cleaner because oven cleaner is gonna eat any pro you know protonace stuff that's uh caught on it. So I just recommend uh going uh really hardcore on that. Okay. Uh and one last question in on the on the Twitter from uh what was it from from Clefs. Uh at cooking issues, does adding oxidized oil to non-oxidized oil cause the non-oxidized oil to oxidize faster than it would alone?
+
+[50:33] Or is it linear? Now, uh you know, I had never really stupidly I'd never really thought about this problem before. Um, but uh, you know, it makes sense that that what you're saying is is right. However, I know, and I said on the last week's show, which is maybe what prompted this, that the way that you do this professionally and in continuous frying is to achieve a certain level of oxidation and keep it constant by constantly adding fresh oil to it, and you reach kind of a steady state where the oil stays the same. Things like potatoes uh absorb the exact amount of oil that they need and everything goes in a steady state.
+
+[51:07] But uh, I don't know. Here's what you know. I know that what affects uh oxidation rate in oil is the presence of oxygen and the presence of metallic ions, which is why you don't salt things, for instance, before you put them in oil, typically, because it's going to increase the rate at which your oil breaks down. It's not really important if you're not going to use the oil for a long time or if you're pan-frying, but in deep frying, it can be uh quite important. But I recommend that you read uh Egan Press.
+
+[51:30] Uh go online, you can get a downloadable PDF of their uh edible fats and oils book. It's very short, it's very good. Uh, and uh I go back and read it, uh read it quite a bit. And uh here's a quick paragraph from them uh on flavor and order uh uh flavor and odor. Organoleptic evaluation of oils is an empirical test, and there's no substitute for an experienced analyst.
+
+[51:51] That experienced analyst is going to be you, and the way that I test my oils constantly to see whether or not they're any good is I get bread, regular white bread, totally neutral white bread. Why? Because it's porous and it soaks up oil. Heat the oil up uh and then put the bread in and fry off the bread a little bit. Don't need to fry it long, you don't want it to brown or anything like that.
+
+[52:08] Pull it out and taste that bread. If that bread tastes good, if that bread tastes neutral, then you're good to go. And if it doesn't, that oil is no good. And that's literally the test that I run whenever I'm wondering whether my oil is on the edge or not. And it's really very, very uh sensitive.
+
+[52:23] You know, your palate is very sensitive, and it's what you should follow. If you want a more scientific explanation, go to this, uh go to this paper. It's available free on the web. It's called Mechanism and Factors for Edible Oil Oxidation by Eunic Coey and David B. Min.
+
+[52:39] Eunuch Coe is a rough name to have. That's this week in cooking Issues. Come back next week, our hundredth episode. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[53:16] You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
+
+[53:36] Heritage Radio Network is now on Stitcher. Listen to us on your iPhone, Android phone, Kindle Fire, and other devices with Stitcher. Stitcher is smart radio for your phone. Find it in your app store or at Stitcher.com. Stitcher Smart Radio, the smarter way to listen to radio.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Whole Foods Market, a dynamic leader in the quality food business, a mission-driven company that aims to set the standards of excellence for food retailers. For more information, visit Whole Foods Market.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Hello.
+
+[0:49] We on? Yeah. Wow. We didn't have any song. Uh Joe, what's up?
+
+[0:54] Uh trying out a new song, and uh maybe that one won't work. I think it's fine. It's just, you know, I didn't I thought that was part of the whole, you know, we're Heritage Radio Network. That's the thing. It's like you need a break between the Heritage Radio Network and the Cooking Issues.
+
+[1:06] Am I right? Yes. Am I right? Sure. Let's start this fresh people.
+
+[1:10] Hello, and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Hondur, host of Cooking Issues, coming to you live every Tuesday from 12 to 1245 on the Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting in a container in the back of uh what is it? Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn. Live as always with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez and uh with Joe in the engineering booth. No Jack today, huh?
+
+[1:29] No, Jack's feeling real sick. Yeah, what kind of sick? I'm not exactly sure. It's uh some sort of flu type. Uh-huh.
+
+[1:38] Is it is it the kind of flu you can track from drinking all night? Well I'm just kidding. Jack is a very responsible man. Uh at least about that, so I'm sure that's not it. Anyway, call your questions live to 7184972128.
+
+[1:52] That's 718497-2128. Uh, I thought actually uh Nastasha was gonna be late because she had to run around like a nincompoop today because we have an event uh we have an event later this afternoon. What is the event we're doing anyway? It's for the American new product stuff, Martha Stewart. American new product stuff.
+
+[2:10] What's what's that? New products that Martha Stewart likes. That are happen to be American? Yeah. And uh we're we're helping out, or are we one of those products that she likes?
+
+[2:19] I'm just kidding. I'm just joking. I'm just joking. Apparently, we're supposed to dress in uh caterers' uniforms, is that correct? All black.
+
+[2:26] All black? So all the only requirements all black. Mm-hmm. So sequins that are all black. That's fine.
+
+[2:31] So if anyone out there knows a source in Manhattan, Lower Manhattan, preferably, for you know, not too svelt uh male sequined unitards. Please tweet them in so that I can go purchase my sequined unitard. Uh, you know, Booker and Dax became recently uh obsessed with the word unitard. Uh and for that, they were way ahead of me. I didn't become obsessed with unitards and the word unitard until possibly college.
+
+[2:57] Right? When I was when I first started in bands, one of my dreams was to have we were in a band called Jurassic Yellow Plastic, was to have a yellow sequined unitard and a velvet uh a velvet coat with lapels that uh were uh about uh you know a foot and a half taller than my head that went up. I was big on Bootsy Collins and that kind of thing. Anyways, on to today's question. So Nastasha, I realized that last week uh I started answering a question, and as is normal for someone like me, it totally went completely off base and never actually answered their question.
+
+[3:28] So uh I apologize to Tom Fisher. Uh Tom Fisher asked, uh recent this is not recently anymore, because it's two weeks, two weeks, whatever. I recently tried Polyscien's recipe for low temperature ribs, and while the flavor was amazing, my guests were a little freaked out by the unrendered fat. Is there any way to do a combination of high and low temperature cooking to get the best of both worlds? Now I answered a second question that he had, which was about C VASP, but I never answered this.
+
+[3:50] It's kind of an important question when it comes to low temperature cooking. The answer is no. You cannot get the best of uh well, you can't get the best of both worlds in that way. Low temperature cooking uh never renders the fat or the collagen out of uh the out of the meats. And so there's positives and negatives to this.
+
+[4:09] One, the meats don't get as much gelatin and all sorts of broken down uh you know collagen, which is gelatin, uh, throughout the throughout the piece of meat in a low temperature cooked uh item because the stuff it it turns tender but it stays in place. And so if you have a portion of something that you're in a traditional braise might get a little moistened by that by that that render stuff coming out, it's not gonna happen in a low temperature. On the other hand, uh the the benefit of uh it not rendering out, well, the other benefit of it not rendering out is as your guests found out, they can be a little bit freaked out by what they think are big chunks of fat, some of which are big chunks of fat, but also big uh chunks of soft but unrendered connective tissue. But the benefits are that uh unlike a regular traditional braise, you can take most and only with short ribs, if there's a lot of bones, there's you know, it's much harder, but you can do a lot of fabrication work on low temperature cooked stuff. So you can get very uh, you know, nicely sliced pieces of low temperature cooked things like ribs that are very tender that you can never do if you were doing a traditional uh cooking technique because they would just shred into into pieces, right?
+
+[5:17] So uh so the answer is no. Uh but you you know, you can't kind of get the best of both worlds because if you rendered that out, you'd be cooking it to such an extent that you might have just done low temperature. Uh I mean you might as well just done traditional cooking from the beginning. There's no reason to do the low temperature step. So I what I would say is that use each technique for its own um for its own best purpose.
+
+[5:36] So low temperature ribs, great for doing uh small portions that are um sliced very nicely and sauced and served as part of plated dish components, right? But if you want rendered out, you know, stick to your ribs, ribs, like you know, you know, grandma style, yeah, which I love, uh, then you know, go go traditional, right? Nastasha actually usually I think prefers the traditional one on that, right? Yes. Although I don't think they're I I really honestly, and I've said this a billion times, and I'll probably say it, you know, forever, there's no better or worse.
+
+[6:06] It's not better or worse. It's you know, can you achieve the result that you want to achieve? So, anyway, Tom, sorry about that. Another thing I think I don't think I mentioned uh last week uh that we had a question about cutting boards, and I talked about cutting boards. I'm just curious out there if anyone out there has tried these weird multi-layer cutting boards that are coming out of Asia now, where it's it's like literally just stacked sheets of thin cutting boards that are semi-laminated into one thick board, and then when the top gets dirty, instead of cleaning it, you shove a knife into it and peel the entire top layer of the board off.
+
+[6:37] You ever seen this, Nastasha? No, it's cool. It's cool, but it's weird. It makes a really you would hate it, you know why? It makes a something wrong with you noise when the when the uh when layers are separating, it's like Nastasha hates that because it makes her think of some sort of disease peeling off.
+
+[6:51] I mean, I've made that kind of noise in the kitchen before, not peeling a disease off. Right? Not not for that reason, but uh but and you hate that kind of noise, right? I hate your breathing, so. See, now that's classic Nastasha.
+
+[7:07] Now, for those of you out there who say uh Nastasia, she give it to me, like I give it to her. See, that's the only time on the air she's ever actually said something like she would normally say to me in uh you know in in the real world, just so you guys get a get a picture of of uh what's going on. Okay, very nice. Uh okay. Uh Alvin Schultz uh tweeted in with a couple different questions.
+
+[7:27] One was have we ever tried the technique of cryoshocking? So cryo shucking is uh is uh something that was uh pioneered or I should say uh advocated by I mean I don't know who actually came up with it, uh shucking oysters by um putting the oyster into liquid nitrogen for a brief period of time that kills slashes messes up the musculature of the oyster such that when they uh when they warm up a little bit so they're not frozen, you can get a knife in there and you don't have to worry about popping the belly, and you don't have to worry about getting little bits of shell into your oyster. Cryo shucking. Now I have to admit, uh, you know, Chris uh Chris Young and uh you know Nathan and Maxime and those guys, by the way, you know, none of that team together anymore. The whole team split up, the whole original modernist, like all three of those guys, they're all gone their own separate ways at this point.
+
+[8:14] And the end of that era, beginning of a new era. Uh so the uh cryoshucking, uh, I've never had much luck with it. They are big advocates of it. I've spoken to Nathan about it, and I've spoken to Chris Young about it. I forget exactly how many seconds you put it in.
+
+[8:28] The idea is not to freeze the oyster all the way through, just to uh shock the beejesus out of it so that and I guess kill it, but so that it you know you can um so that it relaxes enough for you to get your knife in without having to put too much force in it. Because when you're putting the force in it that you get the um that you get the problems of of chipping shell and all that. Now, uh Nils and I tried it years and years ago, uh years and years ago, and we know we just never had much luck with it. We always maybe we overfroze it, I don't know, but we never we never really we never really were too uh jazzed about it but you know Chris is enough of an advocate of it that I think it bears me trying it again at some point that the idea is to freeze it just long enough uh to uh get it to relax after it thaws but not enough to alter the texture by freezing it you also want to make sure that you put them cupside down when they're thawing so you don't lose any of the awesome precious juices uh when you cry a shuck. But shucking oysters is a huge problem so anything that makes it uh work out better is probably uh uh a good thing to do should I share the Nick Wang story even though I'm probably not supposed to Dave Chang doesn't listen.
+
+[9:31] Okay. Right? So Dave Chang Dave Chang is a huge uh huge on on oyster shucking. In fact we saw him not that long ago in an oyster shucking contest at Somme where like all of the Momo cooks were racing each other to see who could shuck oysters fastest. And so Dave Chang hates there's two things there's there's there's three things he hates about oyster shucking.
+
+[9:52] One if you're slow and puny he hates that right he hates if you pop a belly that's uh akin to if to him you might as well just punch him in the face as pop an oyster belly like he like that that would make him punch you in the face. So we're going back to last week's like what would cause a fo a food stuff that would cause your friend to punch you in the face if you shucked an oyster in front of Dave Chang and popped the belly. And the other one is if you served a customer an oyster with bits of broken shell in it. That would also like that's like you know infinite tirades from Dave Chang. So there was an extern years ago uh that Nick Wong saw do this uh actually be he was so frightened that he saw this he Nick stopped him so it didn't go out to the customers as far as I know so don't I don't want anyone to think that it went out to the customer.
+
+[10:32] Saw the dude rinse an oyster under the water to make sure there was no shell in it. Can you imagine that? Even I might lose my cool on that. I mean, it takes a lot for me to lose my my cool at anyone other than Nastasha. Like people will think I get worked up, but like honestly, like to actually lose my cool at someone I don't know, that takes a lot, right?
+
+[10:51] Yeah. You ever see me lose my cool on someone I don't know? I don't think so. No, right? No.
+
+[10:56] Anyway, cryosucking. Uh the other question uh Alvin had was uh he's having problems with this rotavap. Rhodovap is a rotary evaporator. It's used for low temperature uh well, it's it's it's a distillation rig that you use in laboratories, and it's got a couple of benefits. One, it does things at low temperature because it's under a vacuum, and when you put things under a vacuum, you can boil at lower temperatures, which means that you don't have any heat damage to very fragile flavors like herbs.
+
+[11:19] The other thing is uh the other two things is is it's very gentle, uh very gentle, not just from a heat standpoint, but just gentle in terms of it doesn't have any a lot of bumping and boiling, so it's it's nice that way. And uh two, three, it happens under a vacuum. And since it's under a vacuum, there's no oxidative effects when you're doing it. So it's it's very good for a number of things like that. Uh but if you're going to do legal evaporation, even illegal evaporation, I advocate using a cold finger because you want the maximum difference between your condenser and your boiler to get the maximum recovery of flavor volatiles from things like herbs and whatnot.
+
+[11:55] Because remember, we're not doing primary distillation with the rotary evaporator. We're not trying to get rid of impurities like you would with uh a column still. So we're trying to get maximum capture of our stuff back in a rotary evaporator, typically. So we want really cold things. So I use liquid nitrogen uh, but uh because I have a lot of it uh in in a thing called a cold finger condenser.
+
+[12:12] But Alvin's using uh, he says he's using dry ice and acetone, and he says that uh the condenser's getting saturated. First of all, I do not recommend using dry ice acetone in food applications because uh I don't want acetone anywhere near uh the stuff I'm working with. And also, you're gonna get a high like a kite if you have a whole boatload of acetone sitting around and it warms up and starts volatilizing. I don't I don't really like using acetone in the kitchen, so I wouldn't do that. I would use uh dry ice alcohol.
+
+[12:41] You can use denatured alcohol as long as you're sure it doesn't get anywhere near your food, or you could pick up some like Everclear 195 or something like that, and that stuff's fine. I would use that instead of uh acetone. The other thing is is that uh the dry I mean dry ice that's this is a classic lab way to do it, dry ice and alcohol. But for some reason, and a stash you backed me up on this. Whenever we do uh events where we try the dry ice in the condenser, it never seems to be as smooth or work as nicely as when we do the liquid nitrogen in the condenser.
+
+[13:09] For for some reason, I don't I I'm not sure why, but we always get a lot more boiling and it's just it's always a lot messier and things seem to get stuck more. And for some reason, I mean dry ice is extremely powerful, and uh I tend also to dry for some reason when we do the dry ice alcohol, it tends to gunk up uh my vacuum lines more because when you're getting when you oversaturate in something that's cold like that, you start getting uh vapor, moisture vapor, or or distillate vapor in your vacuum line or near the point where the vacuum line attaches to the condenser, it can clog up. Once it clogs up, your thing you gets uh saturated out, you can't get a vacuum level in there anymore. And the only way to fix it is to is to quickly put a blast of air through your vacuum line to clear it out by using the differential and pressure. But when you do that, then uh you know you you have all sorts of problems.
+
+[13:57] So once that happens, it's very hard to get your distillation really right back on track. And uh so I find that typically one way to stop that from happening is to always start your distillation before you chill your uh before you chill your thing down. Get the get your get a a little bit of a vacuum so that's not a great uh you know heat conductor. Get a little bit of a vacuum going in your condenser before you add the dry ice and the alcohol. Don't put dry ice and alcohol in the condenser and then start your distillation run.
+
+[14:26] Uh, but it's very difficult, and I really think that liquid nitrogen, even though it's not as powerful as dry ice, uh, and so therefore it would cost more in the long and and you have to keep refilling it. I just find that it's a lot easier for me to for me to work with. I've we we haven't had as good a luck with dry ice. Anyway, I hope that helps. Uh should we go to our first commercial break?
+
+[14:44] Sure. We're coming back from our first commercial break in a moment. Cooking issues! Today's program has been brought to you by Whole Foods Market. Are you a local?
+
+[15:21] Our Northeast Regional Forager for Whole Foods Market sure is. She spends her time traveling around the New York City metro area sourcing the best new or interesting artisanal and handcrafted local products for our purchasing teams at the local store level. Part of our commitment to our local suppliers includes assisting them with the process of getting their products sold at our stores. Whether it's suggesting packaging designs, pricing, or distribution methods, she's helping some of the areas's best new products reach savvy shoppers at Whole Foods Market stores. Today, New York.
+
+[15:51] Tomorrow, the world. For more information, visit Whole Foodsmarket.com. Wow, Joe. I like that. I like that in the back of that.
+
+[16:13] It's very I don't know that it's Whole Foods sounding, but it's like, you know, right? What do you think? I don't know if that's exactly Whole Foods, but uh Yeah, definitely threw me for a loop. Yeah. That's that is that uh is that is that Jack's work?
+
+[16:27] No, that's not Jack. That's uh actually uh Rachel Wharton's boyfriend is in this band, and he does the theme song for her for her show, too. So nice, nice cool, right? All right, well, welcome back to cooking issues, calling your questions live to 7184972128. That's 724972128.
+
+[16:43] Tom wrote in and said, Hi, Dave, and all this not Nastasha now, you're the all too. She's like, I don't care. I don't care. I'm reading my tweets. Actually, you know what?
+
+[16:51] She's not because Nastasha hates all sorts of social media. She detests it. She detests social things in general, actually. But especially media related to being social, right? It's true.
+
+[17:02] Yeah. She also likes ordering shoes online, but hates it when other people do it. I died ordering shoes. Oh, yeah? Yeah.
+
+[17:09] Hold on. You're right. She's ordering jackets. She's literally she's sitting here, she always says that she's doing work. She's sitting here.
+
+[17:16] I never said she's sitting, she's sitting here ordering jack. Is that what you're doing? Like with See, here's the thing. Nastasha all day has her face in the computer. She's like, you don't know what I do, you don't know what I do.
+
+[17:25] The first time I ever went and actually took a load of a computer, she's ordering jackets. And not just any kind of jacket, like like early 90s beige barn jackets. No, it's like J. Cruz style. So what the hell does that have to do with anything we're doing right now on cooking issues?
+
+[17:40] Nothing. Nothing at all. I'm listening to you, though. Uh-huh. What was my last question about?
+
+[17:46] Oh! You just Harold McGee me. Hey, yeah, do you like this? Well. Okay, good.
+
+[17:52] Nastasha has this thing that she says I ask questions and then don't wait for the answer. Well, we don't have all day. It is a 45-minute program. Poor Harold. Crazy.
+
+[18:00] Nastash is a crazy person. By the way, for those of you that don't know, Nastasha, crazy person. Tom writes in. I've recently started making sourdough bread and some other fermented goods. My wife loves the new food, but can't stand the vinegar flies.
+
+[18:12] I put up with them until recently when they started attacking food mid-prep. Traps do trap flies, especially the ones I baited with water and soap to break the surface tension. Pear slices and sprouted, then roasted barley. But I don't want to cook for flies. That is a lot of work.
+
+[18:27] Sprouted and roasted barley? First of all, I hate sprouts. Yeah, we did sprouts and that's a test sprouts. Everyone out there, I know that a lot of you like sprouts. I don't like them.
+
+[18:34] I don't even like sprouts that everyone likes. I said this many times before. Please don't serve me a pea shoot. I know you like it. I know everyone else likes it.
+
+[18:41] I do not like it. Anyway, uh, I mean, I like to sprout barley, you know, uh to not to sprout it, but to germinate it. I mean, that's like the basis of many of the foods uh I mean foods, drinks that I like in the world are based on the notion of sprouting barley. But uh yeah, uh, you know, but don't uh I should say germinating it. Anyway, because you know, when you're doing malt, you don't want the uh the acro spire to come all the way out of the uh out of the barley because then it's eaten up too much of the too much of the carbo is used, and you don't have enough left over to make your delicious, delicious beer or your delicious, delicious whiskey.
+
+[19:13] So don't do that. Anyway, um I don't want to cook for flies, and it seems like the trap attracts and then kills extra flies, leaving roughly the same amount to be a nuisance. When I put the ferments in the fridge, the flies abate rapidly. So there isn't some other problem in the background. What do you do?
+
+[19:29] What can I do? What do professionals do? I can't imagine flies would be tolerated in a good restaurant or factory. Thanks, Tom. P.S.
+
+[19:37] Uh Dave, did you take any philosophy classes from Michael Delaroca at Yale? He is my dissertation director. If you did take his class, would you give him a shout on an air, uh, shout out on air? Well, I'm happy to give him a shout-out, but no, uh, I don't think he joined the uh faculty at Yale before I graduated. I graduated in ninety-three and I looked him up on the internet and uh his dissertation was in I think 91.
+
+[20:00] So I don't think he was on the faculty uh at Yale when I was there. And actually, I don't know, I haven't looked at their faculty recently to see whether any of the old guard from uh back in those days was uh is still, you know, there. I'm sure some of a lot of them are still alive. I had a bunch of young young people teaching us, but um I don't know if they're still there. But I'm gonna give a shout out to anyone doing their uh philosophy dissertation at Yale.
+
+[20:22] Shout out. I love that. Man, like you know, again, whatever. I mean, uh I looked them up uh uh uh uh, you know, Professor uh Della Roca is does a field that uh I didn't do so much in kind of early modern philosophy stuff. I was more I I I did two s two very different sides of the coin.
+
+[20:39] I spent most of my time worried about Plato and uh Nietzsche. I ended up writing a whole boatload of my papers on Nietzsche. Nietzsche is designed for like an 18 to 21 year old angst ridden philosophy student at an Ivy League institution. Like the writing is just like I I need to go back and read it, see whether I still like it. It'll be interesting whether 41 year old me has gets the same kind of feelings from reading Nietzsche Nietzsche as well.
+
+[21:03] No, crap on my essays. What the hell did I know? I was 20. But I mean, I don't know, the actual work. Go back and read Nietzsche.
+
+[21:09] Have you ever gone back, Nastasha, and read some of the old stuff that you read in college to see whether it's still like whether you have any feeling about it at all? I mean, the the the the what I'm worried about is I go back and I read it and I just feel nothing. Wouldn't that be weird to have spent like all that time and then go back and feel nothing? Of course, yeah, it served its purpose. Whatever.
+
+[21:27] Here is a story. So vinegar flies are similar to what are a named f uh fruit flies or drain flies. They're all different variants of the uh Drosphila like melangaster, you know, the famous melanchaster, the ones that they uh did all the genetics experiments on? Uh fruit flies. They're the same thing, and I hate them.
+
+[21:44] I detest them. I would why I'm sure that they serve a great ecological purpose, but I would wipe them off the face of the earth. I I I I absolutely detest them. And they're the bane of bars' existence, because uh, you know, so actually, just this uh apropos of nothing, but if if you own a bar and you watch someone come in and do a health inspection of your bar, what they do is they go and they grab your bottles of booze, they swirl them and put a flashlight in the bottom of them, and they're looking for dead fruit flies on the inside of your uh bottles. Now the health inspector that we had didn't have the brains to realize that we're not gonna have that problem because we don't have speed pores on our bottles, so there's no way for flies to get into our bottles.
+
+[22:25] Also, we were saying we weren't sure if it's actually technically illegal to do an infusion of fruit flies. If you raised food grade fruit flies, could you do a fruit fly infusion and have a bottle that was totally full of fruit flies? Like a hundred percent just fruit flies and grain alcohol as an infusion. Aside from the fact that infusions might be technically illegal, would there be a further b uh a further ill illegality as a result of the fruit flies themselves? It it's unclear to me.
+
+[22:50] We're not gonna do it, please. I've just I'm k half well I'm I'm a hundred percent kidding, but uh just wondering about whether it's the fruit flies themselves that are inherently some sort of the health hazard, right? Right. I mean the health hazard from a fruit fly is that it it might land on something that's incredibly gross and then land on your stuff. I want to make I told you I want to make little t-shirts for flies that say my last landing pad was poop.
+
+[23:09] You know what I mean? You want to make a t shirt before a flies. Yeah or somehow like you know maybe a little video where a fly is saying you know because a fly is like yeah it could right yeah my last landing pad was poop. I mean that's the problem with flies. Not fruit flies but flies.
+
+[23:24] Anyway so off the off the topic. I would look up the Ohio State University extension fact sheet uh entomology on vinegar, pumice or small fruit flies, uh drosphila multiple different species. That's the the you know the genus is uh dress fila. Okay. Here's the issue.
+
+[23:39] They live anywhere there is stuff they can feed on. So the obvious one that we think of is uh fermenting uh products, fermenting fruit they're attracted um to that kind of a thing. Liquids, also garbage, also mops that you have out that are uh mops that are that are wet dish rags that are wet, uh sponges that are wet, uh any garbage uh that you know is is lying around. Now the life cycle of them is you know between seven and and fourteen days so it takes a while and they it takes a while for them to grow. So most likely you have a source somewhere uh that is uh sitting around for long enough for it for these flies to uh grow.
+
+[24:21] Now do you want to know what the most likely culprit I think is for something like this is if you if you're not keeping a wet mop around and you're not keeping fruit out, right? And you're not having these kinds of problems. Drains. It's your drains that are the most likely place where these uh where these things uh are are are coming from. Or they're coming from outside.
+
+[24:40] Most screen mesh, most window screen mesh is not big enough. I mean, sorry it's not small enough to stop these flies from coming in. So uh all of the uh you know the uh the sites, you know, the technical sites on it, you need what's called a 16 mesh or finer, which is finer than most uh screen mesh to exclude uh these flies from coming into your uh kitchen. Also, they can enter through uh they they are attracted to light at night. So if you leave a light on and you have a screen open, they're attracted into the kitchen, and they'll then find a mop, a rag, uh uh, or any place like this to uh to go.
+
+[25:16] Now, the drains are a problem because you can get a biofilm, which is like a layer of slimy gunk that inhabits the inside of the drains all the way down into where the trap is in the drain. And normal washing uh even with hot water isn't enough to kill and or wipe these things out because the contact time is not long enough. And so what you need to do if you want to see whether this is where they're coming from is uh and this is uh you know, I read this on several of the technical sites, is you want to put tape over a portion of the drain, leaving enough like so air can get in and out and then overnight, and then come in the next day and see whether or not there's any flies stuck to the underside of the tape, which would be indicative that the flies are exiting from the drain pipe in order to lay their eggs and do and do their nasty, nasty work. So um so how do you get it out of the drains? You can uh you you can ru like every couple of months you can remove your drain uh your your the actual cover on the drain, take a scrub brush and bleach and scrub that stuff out, then pour uh a bio uh, you know, an enzymatic bio cleaner that will that will eat away at the uh coating that's on the inside of the drain pipe, and then flush multiple times with boiling water or uh and and then you know periodically pour boiling water down your drains to make sure that you're uh getting rid of it um so that's that's one way to do it also covering up uh you know covering up any source where they might go in that's wet not keeping any of that stuff in your in your kitchen remember they're attract attracted to light and to moisture uh now here's another good one you can use uh insecticides like pyrethrines to kill these suckers but you don't necessarily want to have those things uh laying around something you might not uh be aware of but that uh I I like quite a bit is uh a product called gentrol now gentrol is uh uh uh something called an insect growth regulator the actual active ingredient in gentrol and you can buy this at a lot of stores you can buy it I think on the Amazon uh is uh hydroprene and hydroprene and you you can look it up um just look up hydroprene if you look up gentrol you'll get a bunch of like things trying to sell it to you if you look up hydroprene H Y D R O P R E N E you'll get uh websites that talk about the actual product itself uh what it is is it is a hormone analog so insects use uh different hormones to try and s you know try and uh signal within their bodies that they need to move to the next level of uh either growth a different instar if they're in a in a nymph phase or uh or to lay eggs any so all parts of their reproductive and growth cycles are regulated by hormones the same way we are fortunately for us uh mammals and insects have different hormones and so we can use uh a hormone uh and it's not the actual hormone that's in the insects, but it's an it's analogous to it it.
+
+[28:04] It affects the same systems that the real hormones do. And we can essentially provide uh birth control to insects. So you and the the cool thing about this hydroprene is gentrol is it's totally food safe. Uh and it's not a human or mammalian hormone at all. So you can spray it on surfaces that are typically difficult to totally eradicate all water from porous wood surfaces, um, things like that, things that can trap uh trap and hold moisture and are great breeding places for these these wretched flies.
+
+[28:35] You can spray gentrol on them, you know, uh a couple of times. It lasts for a good long while in there, and it will provide continuous birth control for flies such that they will not be able to reproduce. Okay? So uh, you know, we we use this, and and by the way, it works on uh almost all uh insects. Uh go to read if you want to read a uh scholarly paper on it, go read Hydroprene Mode of Action, Current Status in Stored Product, Pest Management, Insect Insect Resistance, and Future Prospects by uh SM Mohandas.
+
+[29:08] That's available, it's in the magazine Crop Protection 2006, and it's available for free on the USDA.gov uh website. Uh and it goes through what it does uh and all of the uh studies of it. Um and it's it's good stuff, it's gentrol. It also wipes out cockroaches and it also wipes out moths. So, you know, uh, and I think it also might work on flower beetles and things like that.
+
+[29:30] So if you're having some sort of hard to crack infestation that's probably due to some thing somewhere in your kitchen you can't find that these suckers are attracted to, uh spray this on it, they'll go back to where they came from, wherever they lay eggs, and those eggs will not be fertile. So it's uh it's good stuff. Hope that what do you think? Good? Good job.
+
+[29:47] Do you like the gentral, right? Did you ever use it? Did you take some, you don't do you have any problems at your house? Really? Even though you live in Hell's Kitchen?
+
+[29:54] Hell's Kitchen's like, you know, it's like the older of a building you live in, or the more people in it, the harder it is to kind of eradicate these things. We once had uh uh, you know, I've I've had it work wonders on cockroaches at Gentral. I mean, I like it, and uh you know it's nice to find something because I have two kids in my house, so I don't want to spray a lot of poisonous stuff around, you know. Uh I mean I used to have no pets, now we have the two hamsters. Did I ever say on air that the one hamster escaped?
+
+[30:19] My kids had the hamster, the hamster escaped, but another hamster and the other hamster showed up like a week and a half later, like the prodigal hamster. He was totally emaciated and messed up and like you know, like like you know, on a forced march kind of a situation. My wife saw him and was like, ah, because she thought it was some sort of crazy road. She's like, Oh my god, Rhino, you've come back, and gets rhino, and and like we had two cages, a mini storage cage, right? For the uh and the big one, then the new hamster Sulu had the ran the run of of both hamster cages, right?
+
+[30:48] And then all of a sudden Rhino comes back, and Sulu gets shoved in the small cage and rhino gets his big cage back because the hamsters can't live together because they might, you know, rip each other to shreds. And we were all like, holy crap, and we're like, wow, it's just like the prodigal son from the Bible. He can leave, he can do what he wants. Hey Dad, how's the c house come? You're so much nicer to the one that did all this other crap.
+
+[31:10] He's like, I always had you as a son, but this son I had lost and now I have him again. What? Kind of message is that? Crazy. You're following it.
+
+[31:21] Look, here's the thing. I well, here's the thing. Here's the thing. Uh now look, i i for those of you that that aren't parents or have never been or are young or whatever, okay. When you read the prodigal son in you know section of the Bible, you're like, that is some load of bull.
+
+[31:35] What the hell is that? You know what I mean? You're like, this is horse crap. But then once you become a parent, you understand it. Really?
+
+[31:41] Why? Because it's true. You think you've lost something and nothing's worse than the loss. And then when it comes back, it's like, ho you know what I mean? You know what I'm saying?
+
+[31:51] It doesn't mean you give them the bigger cake. Go kill the fatted carrot. The prodigal hamster is back. Hey, dude. I think you have a caller.
+
+[32:00] Oh, yeah. Caller, you're on the air. I come choose the crew. It's Brian and Susanko. Oh, hey, Brian, how you doing?
+
+[32:09] Good. Okay, my question is, I'm looking for your tips to make the best pancakes and waffles. Ooh. What are your pri what are your criteria for for a good pancake and waffle? Because the answer depends.
+
+[32:24] Okay, so not soggy, uh yeah, got a little little crunch on the outside. It's got some f um some fluffiness to it. Uh and I'm also interested in in in maybe going the savory route also. So both both for breakfast and uh and um and for for dinner. So for dinner, most people on their pancake style things will Korean with yeah with kimchi or something like that.
+
+[32:54] Right. I mean they'll th like so most people want a different texture on a dinner pancake than they want. They want usually more crepe like on on a dinner style thing. And the the secret to crepe like things is to let the batter rest a long time, not only because of hydration issues, but uh to make sure all the air is out because it's very hard to get a good spread on a crepe if there's any air left over in the batter. Okay.
+
+[33:18] But crape like means thin. Thin, right. Now, but if you want to do standard pancakes and waffles, if you do, if you research old recipes on pancakes and waffles, you'll find that the major difference between them, in fact, in some ways, the only difference you need to pay attention to between them, is that a waffle recipe is going to contain a significant amount of oil or oil-like thing like butter, okay? And the reason is is you need something to uh you need something to reduce the uh sticking to the sides of the of the waffle iron. So if you try to do a lower fat version of a waffle, you'll s you'll find that uh it just sticks like a like like nobody's business.
+
+[34:04] Modern day waffle irons have a Teflon coating on the inside of them and are much better at releasing and so don't require as much fat in them as the old school recipes. And so you'll see a lot of more modern recipes really tone the fat level down because the fat level can be quite high. We're talking uh, you know, like over well over half of a cup of uh half a cup, well like two sticks of butter worth, yeah, well over a cup, right? Anyway, in uh in like a four and a half cup flour recipe. So you're um a significant amount of I find though that I like it better with that high amount of uh fat in it.
+
+[34:38] Now, I used to try various different things in my pancakes and waffles. So I use the same long story short, I use the same recipe because I'd rather have the more fat in my pancake recipe than the less fat in the waffle. It makes it easier to remember. So I use the same batter for both pancakes and for waffles. So uh the recipe I also what I do is I I hydrate a certain portion of the flour in uh my liquids before I before I start working.
+
+[35:03] I use buttermilk because I like the results I get. So the recipe that I actually use at home, it's not really measured, so I'll have to give it to you. Is I use uh a quart of uh buttermilk, right? The regular cultured like buttermilk, which isn't actually buttermilk, but that's what everyone calls buttermilk. I use a quart of that, five uh whole uh uh I use extra large eggs, I don't know why, but I always have five extra large eggs.
+
+[35:27] Um I then add uh a portion of the flour. I usually add like a cup and a half. My wife, and I actually like the taste of it, so I the uh if I'm gonna use a non-traditional flour at this point, I add it then. And I use a lot of times use a mixture of oats and/or buckwheat flour and/or cornmeal and/or you know, some little bit, but don't you can't use too much wheat charm, some of that, some or whole wheat, all different kinds or uh or uh chipati flour at this point. I I add it now, right?
+
+[35:56] At at this early stage, along with uh vanilla, which I usually use vanilla at that point, and if I'm gonna use it rum and also sugar to taste to make it uh a little bit sweeter. And that's what I would omit for a savory recipe, okay? Uh blend that thing together and allow the hydration to start. There's so much uh there's so much um there's so much moisture in that that you're not gonna develop any gluten. Don't worry about and I hit it with a stick blender to get it really well blended at that point.
+
+[36:24] You don't need to worry about gluten development at this point. I melt uh I also salt, sorry, I add some salt to it. I then melt What about the chemical leaveners? Uh yeah, I add that later. So then I add, so I let that hydrate for a little while.
+
+[36:37] Then I melt uh two sticks of butter, which is I guess a cup, or mixture of oil depending on what you're doing, if you don't want the butter. Uh I I mix I blitz that in, then I add a portion of the remaining flour, and then it sounds like a lot, but four and a half teaspoons of baking s uh powder. And uh I used to only use four. Uh and I used to also make a thinner recipe with the flour I added, but I decided I like my pancakes thicker, and so I add a slightly more baking uh powder. I take it up to four and a half, and I add a little more flour to make a stiffer.
+
+[37:10] If you want it thinner and you want the pancakes a little thinner and not quite as fluffed out, more less cakey, then take it down to four teaspoons and um don't uh add as much flour at the end. So four and a half teaspoons baking powder and two teaspoons soda to counteract the acidity from the buttermilk and to co uh do extra leavening. Then I stir in enough uh flour to get the consistency, the texture I want, and I cook it. I cook them on a large uh crepe maker actually, because I have a crepe maker from France. Uh and uh what I usually do is I'll hit it with a little bit of a high initial heat to start the crust going, 'cause it's also there's a big wallop of uh of a heat load on your pan because there's all that moisture sticking to it.
+
+[37:50] And then I'll reduce the heat down, wait for the bubbles when they break. I can see that I've cooked enough through my pancake for a good flip time, flip and and cook out. That's how I that's my standard pancake. And I use the same recipe for waffles. I tend not to try any of the more comp I I've done them many times, but I don't do a lot of the more complicated stuff like separately whip the egg whites and uh and then fold them in because I find that it reduces the structure on the inside of the waffle or pancake to the extent that it's not what I'm looking for anymore.
+
+[38:17] Does that make sense? That makes sense. What about things or what is what you know, if I want to do banana nut or add some fruit fruit or something in there? And then all and then also what about yeasted? What it w what if I want to go with with with yeasted and and um put put some yeast into the overnight thing?
+
+[38:33] Right. There's two kinds of yeasted. There's people that add yeast just for flavor, but then are doing standard rises on it. And uh, you know, that you can do whenever you want. The overnight ones, they they taste great.
+
+[38:43] They're they're um they tend uh they they have a a very unique flavor. I actually really like them, but um not everyone's uh a fan of that kind of uh a yeasted flavor, but I think they're great. I also used to uh I used to use uh you know, it's well so sourdough that's not right for bread baking, i.e. it's too far gone, it's very sour. But I used to keep that stuff around, not and then I would I would try to reconstitute it into a real bread starter to do bread, but I would use that starter as uh as just an addition to sourdough uh pancakes, where then it's functioning a lot more like the buttermilk.
+
+[39:20] That's also delicious. But remember, like those kind of preferments are gonna change the structure of the flour a little bit so the the pancakes won't have quite the same texture as a non-fermented pancake will. Not better, not worse, different. You know what I mean? So they'll have a little bit of that glossier inner crumb structure that you're gonna get from a sourdough than you would from a normal normal kind of a a pancake thing.
+
+[39:41] As regards fruits because it's more gluten development? Uh or I think because it breaks I think because it breaks things down, the the acidity is uh is uh messing with the with the structure, I think the same way that it's actually weakening it. Uh, but uh uh you know, I would think. I haven't done the research on it. I mean it's uh that's just off off the top of my head.
+
+[39:59] On fruits though, uh I tend not to mix fruits into the batter unless they are completely dry. I don't want them to bleed out, and also it's harder to dose them in. So I always add them to the uh I put the pancake down, I'll then add the fruit in the correct correct dosage and pattern to the pancake. And then because I'm extremely anal, I will take a spoon and paint a thin layer of batter over the over each piece of fruit before I flip it. That's how I do it.
+
+[40:25] Uh I used to do this also uh with uh I used to use frozen blueberries all the time in my uh in waffles. Uh let me tell you this, it works great, except for expect to buy a new waffle iron every couple of months because the blueberry burns onto the surface of the Teflon, and it is uh they are never the same again. And so eventually your your waffle iron is gonna start sticking, and you could sit there with uh with like a wooden chopstick and try to scrape that stuff off as much as you want to, but those waffle irons never come back to the same condition after you've stopped, you know, after you've started putting fruit into them. Now, maybe worth it to you, and I thought it was worth it for a while, but you know, the last time I I had my waffles start sticking uncontrollably, I was like, I'm just not doing this anymore. I haven't even replaced my waffle iron.
+
+[41:12] My sons are like, Dad, can you buy a waffle iron again? I'm like, Yeah, yeah, I'll get around to it to buying a good waffle iron. My last one was one of the uh flip guys, the ones that emulated the professional style, the flip ones. The flip ones are actually designed to have a much uh more watery dough, and they're designed to to cook a lot faster and to have a lot more of an empty inside. That's why they flip, right?
+
+[41:31] You flip it so that you can get the equal uh strike structure on your side. But even so, I used a standard recipe in them and they they work great. I love the the flip guys because they're so much faster. I mean, no one's designed the perfect waffle iron yet. What you really want is a waffle iron that that you know plugs into a 220 source and can make four real-size waffles at once because unless you're feeding only yourself, let's face it, who cooks waffles for themselves?
+
+[41:54] It's a huge pain in the butt to crank out enough waffles for everyone and then have everyone eat at the same time. Don't you agree on this? Agree. There's always gonna be some that are gonna be more crisp than others. Yeah.
+
+[42:06] Yeah, I know I hate that. May I, you know, but the problem is people don't have the power uh, you know, in their house to typically do it. I once invested in a bunch of old cast iron waffle irons, the ones that make the really thin, weird little waffles. That's what I have. Yeah, but in they always stuck a little bit.
+
+[42:22] They were never as release friendly as the other ones, but they did allow me, because I have six burners, I could crank out a whole bunch of them. Do you like the little cast iron guys? Uh it's I I like it. It's it's pretty well this one's pretty well greased. Right.
+
+[42:36] Um yeah I I find that it it has i it trans once it heats up and it's cranking it's it's it's going pretty well. I like it. Yeah nice. Well maybe I'll give it a uh a try again. It's certainly the only way to get out a bunch of waffles at once is to fire up a bunch of burners with a bunch of cast iron.
+
+[42:52] Well let's let me ask you more about the savory one because I got I had a recipe for a kimchi pancake that um it it the it was um half potato starch half all purpose flour. Right. Um and it seemed to crisp up pretty pretty nicely but it's a very different kind of deal because it's got a lot of a lot of kimchi in there and and a f and a fair amount of veg. Right. So um uh you know do you do you have any thoughts on that on uh on that for the savory application well what what did you not like about the texture of it?
+
+[43:29] No I I I actually like it. I don't know if if uh you know if I can take um if I can do that that uh that one to one with the the potato starch and and uh um and the all purpose flour and do use it for other kinds of um other kinds of things. I mean, probably it's it's interesting. I've never done that high of a ratio. I used to all of my cookies uh I used to bake with a like a uh uh a five to one AP to cornstarch base to soften them.
+
+[43:59] You know, I mean I mean probably they're adding the cornstarch there to soften the pancake up a little bit so that the actual structure of it's not too glutinous, it's not too tough. Uh which would I guess help if you were going to do a lot of um whipping or beating. But again, I'm also using a lot of low gluten stuff in my current pancakes, so I never have a tough problem with them getting tough. I'm using a lot of things like oats and and stuff like that. At fairly high usages.
+
+[44:24] So you could probab um you know uh usage rates that is, so you could uh on a flour basis. So I'm sure you could uh I'm sure you could use it for whatever you want. If you like the texture of that, I like I say I I've done that much of of non-glutinous flowers, but I've never used that much corn starch. It should hydrate relatively quickly. You know.
+
+[44:44] Oh, potato. Um the texture is closer to like uh like uh a lotka, like a potato pancake. Huh. Um than a more than a kind of uh sweet pancake, like a breakfast pancake. Right.
+
+[44:56] Potato starch is weird. I would expect it to be dense and very moist. Uh well the the inside is is is that way, but the outside crisps up very nicely. Yeah. It's interesting.
+
+[45:09] I'll have to do some uh do where what was the source of the recipe? There was uh it's from the New York Times website. Actually it's uh uh based on a rest uh some restaurant in in in Manhattan, I think. Huh. Well, I'll try to send you the link?
+
+[45:25] Yeah, yeah, send us the link on the shawcia and pass it on. Cool, thanks a lot. Okay, thank you. Bye. Derek writes in with a question.
+
+[45:34] Uh hi, I've listened to many shows over the last couple of years and I've heard a great deal of advice on cooking low temperature, especially beef and chicken. I don't recall much advice for lamb though. So as I have a two-pound lamb shoulder roast in my possession, I'd like to ask for some pointers. My plan is to cook it at 60 degrees. AKA 140 Fahrenheit, which by the way, people, I've said this a million times.
+
+[45:53] Remember that one. Always that like if you remember no other Celsius to Fahrenheit conversion, remember 60 to 140. In my circulator, chill, re-therm, and finish in a 450 degree or 500 degree oven for service. I like my lamb medium. It's 60 one.
+
+[46:06] I like my lamb medium at 60 degrees Celsius and appropriate temperature. Uh uh it's what I'm uh it's what I aim for when I'm oven baking or oven roasting, but I wonder if you have a di different recommendation for long cooking in a circulator. Uh two, I'm planning on cooking it for six to eight hours, and I want to balance between breaking down connective tissue and not making it too mutton-y. Is this long enough? Next, at what temperature should I re-therm it to get it warm without overcooking it during the final oven browning?
+
+[46:32] Um 130, for instance. Is that a good uh is that a good thing? Uh in other words, the internal temperature to re-therm it to. Um thanks, Derek. Okay.
+
+[46:44] First of all, to me, sixty like I looked up uh online. To me, sixty seems uh a little bit high. Uh look at some mean a little bit high for cooking for that long. The longer you cook it, the kind of lower you can get the temperature down. And I mean if unless it's strictly speaking a color issue gonna go up.
+
+[47:00] Sixty is not too high. I would try to I mean I would do it at fifty seven or fifty-eight, but sixty is probably gonna be fine. You try it, it's not gonna it's not it's not gonna be horrible. If you really want it more on the on the well not well, but on the medium side, sixty might be a a good number. I don't think that um I don't think that six to eight hours is gonna be enough.
+
+[47:21] You're probably gonna want to go longer, like twelve to twenty four, uh at sixty. But uh, you know, your problem is is that you uh it depends on how tender you want it, right? So the longer lamb usually doesn't need to take as much cooking as uh other things because lamb it's lamb, so it's it's younger. So the connective tissue is easier to break down than it is in uh in an older animal. Um so it typically doesn't take as long a time as you would with uh with an older animal, but um it's still probably gonna take longer than six to eight hours.
+
+[47:52] You'll get some tenderizing effect at 60 for six to eight hours, definitely, but it's gonna be the difference of taking something, let's go back to steak land, it's gonna be the difference of taking something from skirt steak texture to rib steak texture. Okay, not the difference of taking something from uh, you know, an undone braise to a done braise. So you know, it might be tender enough for you, but the comp like if it's going to be if you're gonna do something at 60, so you're gonna do it at that high a temperature, I think you needed to get it really, really tender in order for like that level of doneness to be pleasant, in which case you're gonna need to go longer, like like eight nick twelve to twenty-four. I would probably cook it long uh as high as twenty-four. I think that the muttony flavor that's gonna come out is gonna come out by eight hours anyway, if you're having a piece that's gonna get one of those gamey muttony flavors.
+
+[48:41] So I don't think that the extra twelve hours is gonna accentuate that cooking that much anyway. Usually when a meat protein is gonna start throwing off a gamey, livery, muttony uh taste, it's happening in the first four or five, six hours. So by the time you get to eight or nine, I think that flavor's already developed. Not that it won't uh intensify uh over time. Now, if you're gonna chill this guy all the way down, I think that uh, you know, I still think that it's only two pounds.
+
+[49:13] So I would do it in a very high temp oven to brown up the outside and don't worry about how warm it's gonna get in the middle. It it you could throw it into uh you could re-therm it 130, what's that in Fahrenheit? Could someone do that? I mean, in Celsius. Could someone do the conversions like Celsius to Fahrenheit for me?
+
+[49:31] 130. Yeah. What is that? 54? Yeah, 54 for a 60.
+
+[49:41] I mean, I would do it even lower. I would re-therm it at like 52. I would bring it up uh at like uh 52, uh up to temperature for like half hour, maybe something like this. Depends on how thick you are. Go to Sous vide or whatnot and find out how long it's gonna take to get up to those temperatures, up to like 50 in that range, and then sear it off uh from there, or even slightly before it gets up to that when the center is like in the 40s or the center's in like the you know, like in the mid-40s.
+
+[50:10] You'll get a good roast on the outside and you're not gonna overcook it. Um that's what I would that's what I would recommend. What do you think? Or you can just pull it, you can just drop the temperature of the circulator for the last hour if you don't want to chill it down, drop the temperature of the circulator for the last hour, throw ice cubes, drop the temperature of the circulator to 50, pull it directly from the circulator and throw it into the and throw it into a hot oven, and you should be alright. Okay.
+
+[50:33] Uh one last uh question from Rob Traz. I think it's one last. I think I only have one last. Uh hello, when I cook low temperature or sous vide at home, I typically serve all that I make or chill sealed bags to re-therm them for a separate meal. Typically, I follow the 72-hour rule for uh five degrees Celsius, 41 degrees Fahrenheit storage, as per the FDA time and TEP standards for sous vide in my domestic refrigerator or freeze for longer storage.
+
+[50:57] If I follow the storage, uh the FDA storage guidelines, then sear or retherm the food, can I safely hold the leftovers for the next uh day or two under refrigeration? Uh do the FDA sous vide standards, uh pages one through 186 in Modernist Cuisine only or no volume one, page 186, I guess, for modernist cuisine, only pertaining to the time spent in the anaerobic environment, i.e. until the bag is opened, do these restrictions go away if I use Ziplocks instead of vacuum bags? I have some duck confie sous vide at 180 for eight hours, children stored in the freezer for a month, and I would like to use it to make Rietes. What kind of storage and serving window would be appropriate.
+
+[51:34] Thanks again for all your help, Rob Trapas. Well uh that is a that that is a really uh really good question. So it If you're storing it for a month, right, you're gonna want to have your storage as per the storage things all the way down at 38 Fahrenheit. However, with uh confie you're going to cook it, right? So what they're worried about on that probably is a botulism uh problem.
+
+[52:00] Uh and you know if you're gonna reheat it enough um I think you're going to be alright. You're gonna cook it, you're gonna recook it and make Riyettes with it. What kind of storage and serving window would be appropriate. If you pull something out of a bag and you consider safe it should be alright to to redo it normally. There's two issues going on and you rightly point them out here is one is you're worried about uh you know anaerobic things uh going wrong in your bag i.e botulism or mic or facultative bacteria microaerobic stuff like listeria going on.
+
+[52:32] You're gonna wipe out the listeria. So you're worried about things that are spore forming, like if you do a good job cooking, so if you're actually cooking it properly. Uh so you're worried more about things like uh botulism and um you you're still I'm not uh I you know what Rob? Like for some reason my brain is totally fried. I'm trying to parse through everything that you're that you're saying.
+
+[52:51] And I when it comes to safety, I want to make a hundred percent reliable judgment as to what I'm doing. So I'm gonna go ahead and reread your question, because I when I read it, I thought I could answer, because usually I can answer most safety things off the top of my head. But I want to make sure I give you exactly the right r uh advice on the order of what you're doing, things and where they're gonna go. So I'm gonna hold off on finishing your question for uh for next time. And on my way out, we have a question from Mike Cheshevsky.
+
+[53:15] Says, oh, by the way, he says PS because I know they're gonna cut us off before I'm done. He says, You guys need to have a TV show. From your from your lips to uh the I don't know, some producers' ears. The problem is very few people want to actually do a show the way that uh you know that we would want to do a show, which is I like to just go I just like to go crazy on particular subjects for a long period of time, and most people they don't they don't like that so much, right? Right.
+
+[53:39] Right. It turns out turns out they don't like it so much. Uh anyway, my question concerns dairy products and heat. I sometimes add dairy to hot dishes. For instance, I might finish a curry with a bit of yogurt or add sour cream to a paprika, which I haven't had one in a long time.
+
+[53:52] They're delicious. Anyway, uh sometimes the dairy curdles and looks gross. It does look gross, you're correct. I think it has something to do with the whey proteins denaturing and binding to the K pros uh casein uh proteins. Uh well, that I'm not sure about that.
+
+[54:05] But anyway, could you explain exactly what is going on and any possible solutions? One trick I found which sometimes works is tempering the dairy with a bit of the hot liquid and then incorporating it back into the main pot. Thanks, Mike. Okay. Um what's happening is is that the the you know, you in something like a sour cream, the stuff is partially uh coagulated and broken together, but it's still okay.
+
+[54:25] You stir it in, it's acidified, so it's right at the place where it's going to break and curdle and look awesome. It's very, very touchy. And this is why all the recipes recommend to you that you uh you know don't heat uh sauce after you add the sour cream to it. You're very gentle when you heat it. And the reason they're asking you to temper the stuff in is because if you put the uh sour cream directly into the hot uh uh sauce, especially if it contains acidic things like tomatoes that are adding to the acidity of it, right?
+
+[54:51] Uh it will tend to break right away. Whereas if you are if you're stirring the the the dairy product and adding hot liquid into it, it's much more gradual change, and so you're not gonna cause uh kind of the instant break where where it's gonna happen. The um the the recommendation so that's why that recommendation is there, right? Uh the the breaking is enhanced by heating, which is why the recommendation is also there to not heat up those things. The other one that works is to add a stabilizer.
+
+[55:20] So if you're adding a stabilizer, and a lot of uh, you know, people put either starches or flour in, uh, and the flour uh prevents the uh prevents the the the agglomeration of the uh of the casein and so it prevents that curdling and that you know that's doing that. On the other hand, that's gonna muddy the flavor somewhat of it by by masking it with the with the thing. My uh my uh the person who's now what's Piper's what's Piper's job with this? Uh product engineer, I think it is. Yeah.
+
+[55:50] He uses uh pectins actually, a particular kind of pectin. I'll try and get it for the next show to do acidified dairy products that don't curdle. And he made a really acidified dairy product for us uh yesterday it was kind of was kind of what do you think about that? Oh, you wasn't there. Oh, you didn't taste it.
+
+[56:04] Uh anyway, so so you you can do that. Uh uh again, my brain totally bad. I didn't didn't read precisely what you had said. I don't think it is the whey proteins binding to the casein uh proteins, although I will research it for uh for the next time, as well as answer a question about Pectanex that came in that I didn't get a chance to answer until next week. Cooking issues.org.
+
+[56:44] You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage Underscore Radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by the International Culinary Center. Offering courses that range from classic French techniques in culinary, pastry, and bread baking to Italian studies to management, from culinary technology to food writing, from cake making to wine tasting. For more information, visit internationalculinary center.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radion Network.org for thousands more.
+
+[0:40] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live on the Heritage Radio Network in the back of what is it? Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn. Joined as always with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. We got uh Jack and Joe in the engineering booth.
+
+[0:55] Thank you. Thanks. It's good to be back. Uh I actually was uh late this morning, not for my normal reasons, but thanks to Hurricane Sandy. My building still no longer has heat or hot water, and so uh we pretty much boil a giant pot of water on the on the stove all day every day.
+
+[1:12] Uh so I forgot to turn off the stove, and I had to bike all the way back home and uh turn the stove off to prevent uh my house from burning down. But call all of your questions in to 718497-2128. That's 718497-2128. Now, the first week we were gone because I was in Portland. Uh, doing a cocktail demo, and I had to uh set up actually during our show.
+
+[1:34] Uh and last week, as those of you in this area will know or in the US will know, we had a uh little bit of a hurricane here in New York City. Uh shut down uh all of lower Manhattan for about three, four days, and uh destroyed a lot of people's houses in Staten Island and uh uh, you know, out on the shore in Queens and the Rockaways, and so we've been spending the better part of the week kind of dealing with that. But anyway, back to business. We have a lot of questions uh already uh emailed in because we've been gone for two weeks so I'll just start getting to them uh by the way uh any news uh from you Nastash anything good nothing no stash and I did the today show uh two two days after three days out there three days after the hurricane right yeah and so uh like they thankfully they put me up in a hotel along with my family which uh saved us from better part of ha half of the problems because Nastash was like well he I didn't have we didn't have self service in the lower Manhattan. People don't people don't understand it's not really that it's not really the power loss it's a huge problem.
+
+[2:34] Uh it's it's lost we lost you know all all service. Now luckily obviously we're all safe so we have very little to complain about compared to most people but um the the the thing people don't get about New York City is that we have in New York City a large population of elderly people who are able to live alone because there are a lot of services in New York that you wouldn't ordinarily get if you were living very spread apart in a suburb let's say we have a lot of people who are kind of right on the verge of being able to live alone who are elderly have some sort of disability but then you shut down everything including power and uh water and some people are living you know on very high up floors and they have to now walk or get things it's just that it was a nightmare for those people. And that's you know those are the kind of people you don't necessarily think about if you don't live in a city, right? Right. Anyway terrible so I the guy I buy my cheese from was saying he went and visited uh some of my cheese uh you know his mother-in-law, the day after the hurricane, he was visiting his store that was shut down, and she's probably I don't know, 80, in her apartment alone, crying her eyes out in the dark by herself because she ha couldn't call anyone, because a lot of us don't have landlines anymore, and just had no idea what was going on, had no news, had no one.
+
+[3:48] She was afraid to go outside. Crazy. Anyway, enough of that. Joseph, and then we we never got his pronunciation uh name is uh the pronunciation of his name. Joseph Petto wrote in about uh Cambodian food.
+
+[4:00] I'm interested in expanding my knowledge of Cambodian foods and was wondering if there's a cookbookslash resources you can recommend uh to help with my adventure. Thanks. Um well, unfortunately, Joseph, I only have myself personally one cookbook that deals specifically with um Cambodian food, and it's actually as a kind of it it the book is mainly about Vietnamese cooking. I wasn't able to dig it out, so I I can't uh give give you the name of it right now. But it looks like one of those crappy 80s cookbooks that you used to get back in Borders in the bargain shelf.
+
+[4:31] In fact, I purchased it in the bargain shelf at Borders in the early 2000s, and it's one of those books that looks like that. It's on Vietnamese and Cambodian food, and surprisingly, it is a very good book. And uh they uh I found on Amazon that they reissued the Cambodian portion of it. Uh and I can't see what they what they call it, but it it's it's um anyway, you I think it's the food and cooking of Cambodia, over 60 authentic classic recipes from undiscovered cuisine. Uh, and and it's part of that you should just get the one that's Vietnamese and Cambodian.
+
+[5:03] And uh I asked, you know, the person who had Nastasha's job before Nastasha uh was Vietnamese, is Vietnamese, she's still alive, and uh her name is uh uh Mindy uh Nguyen, and she looked at the at the Vietnamese section and said, Yeah, the Vietnamese section looks good. And uh, and then someone else said on the on the reviews in Amazon said the Cambodian section looked good. Another one out of print that I would like to get if I could get a hold of it, but it's out of print, is called the Elephant Walk Cookbook. Uh there's one that looks very short, and I don't know how in-depth it is, but you can fund some humanitarian aid in Cambodia by buying uh a book called Cambodian Cooking and Humanitarian Project in collaboration with Act for Cambodia. Um anyway.
+
+[5:41] Hope that helps. Um again, it's something that I don't know as much about as I should. We don't really have that many uh Cambodian restaurants here, do we? No. Vietnamese.
+
+[5:50] Yeah. It's pretty huge. Uh isn't that one by the FCI Cambodian? Which one? N.
+
+[5:59] No, something within N. I don't remember. Nils used to go there a lot. No, that's Malaysian. Yonya?
+
+[6:03] No, no, no, yeah. Malaysian. That's like the Malaysian joint that uh a lot of chefs used to go to. My son, actually, Booker and Dax, who hate almost everything, love Yonya. They love it.
+
+[6:15] The bread, probably, right? Crispy Squid. Oh. Crispy Squid and uh their chicken soup noodle soup. Oh, I have a caller, caller, you're on the air.
+
+[6:24] Hi, David Natasia and Jack. This is Eric from Oakland. And a couple uh pressure cooker questions. Shoot. Um first uh I'm looking into buying one.
+
+[6:35] Uh, and I do mostly cooking around the house uh for two to maybe upwards uh eight to ten people. Right. Uh what size pressure cooker should I be looking at? Well, uh excluding the huge ones made by like uh the American Foundry, like the pressure canner style ones, just get the largest one you can get. I forget what the leader rating is, but I prefer.
+
+[6:57] I have the really tall Coon Recon, not the really fat wide one, but the tall Coon Recon. And uh I like the handle or the the long handle or the two small handles on the side. I you well it used to have a long handle, but it fell so many times on the floor that the handles have all broken off. And so now I have to put the lid on with a uh you know by holding it with pot holders and everything like that. But yeah, it used to have a long handle on it.
+
+[7:20] Alright, so that's probably the 12 quart variety then, huh? Probably. I mean the good thing about the tall one is that it it the the pot surface isn't that wide. I mean so you can you're not gonna use it as a fry pan obviously but the pot surface is not that wide so you don't get a lot of scorching on it. And also because of that you can have smaller volumes in it and still pressure cook uh fairly effectively as opposed to the ones that are really wide which sometimes when you're getting it up to heat you could get some scorching around the center part if your burners aren't big enough.
+
+[7:49] You know what I mean? Mm-hmm. Yeah. Um question I had was you were talking a lot about uh cooking down garlic and onions uh to sort of concentrate and maybe take the bite out of them. Uh do you put liquid in with them so that you can bring the thing up to pressure and what's the procedure for doing that?
+
+[8:09] Yes, you put liquid in. I used to use uh for garlic and onions I I depending on what you're gonna do I a lot of times I use milk. I don't know why it's just a habit and it works nicely and uh I don't know whether there's any functionality to it but it curds up uh but usually I end up pureeing it anyway and so it it ends up being good. So for some reason I've always used milk. But uh how far do you fill it up?
+
+[8:30] Do you cover the uh the onions and the garlic? No no no you just need enough to you bring it to a boil while you're stirring it so that you don't uh scorch the milk, close it, bring it up to fr pressure very quickly and then lower it so the milk doesn't scorch. Or you could use broth or s or or you could use water even, but or you could put the you could put the allium, whatever garlic onion in a bowl, uh like over a trivet inside of it and just have it not touch the water at all. All those will work. Okay.
+
+[8:59] So and then you but remember it's not gonna have uh necessarily the same flavor that you're used to because you're taking all all of the pungency pretty much away. But the good news is you can. Yeah, you can eat a ridiculous amount of garlic that way without it uh you know destroying your your pores. Now, for those of you out there who might be like uh health obsessed with garlic, I th th I think that if you believe that garlic has some sort of amazing health-giving principle, that you're probably obliterating that by doing this, but you know, I don't care about that sort of thing. Do you have time for uh one more question about fluid gels?
+
+[9:37] Sure, quickie. All right. Um trying to make a brandy fluid gel for uh Thanksgiving dessert. Um and real quick, it's uh my test batch was three and a milliliters of brandy, two point four grams of auger, point two grams of salt, point four grams of nutmeg, ninety grams of sugar, uh bring to a simmer, cook off the brandy, ice bath to let set, uh and then blend. Right.
+
+[10:04] Um and after uh about a day, two days in the fridge, uh the gel started really loosening up. And I was wondering if there would have anything I'd do about that. Uh I'm amazed that it's set because you didn't uh I mean I would it formed a really nice fluid gel at the beginning or no. Yeah, yeah, it was pretty pretty thick and had a good texture and I could uh squeeze it out of a bottle and get a nice little collop. Huh, you mu you must have really boiled off a lot of the alcohol then.
+
+[10:31] Yeah, I did uh I boiled it until uh and then I lit the pan on fire and boiled it till the fire went away. Ah, yeah, okay, good. Because um two things, agar won't set in that high of a proof of alcohol, and two, uh needs a higher boiling point than you can get just out of when you bring a brandy to the boil to hydrate properly. So yeah, so getting rid of the alcohol was a good thing. How much acid was in it, you said?
+
+[10:56] Uh there was no acid in it. And it's separated on it, it just separated? It wouldn't come back together when you started. It's not really separating, it's just loosening up. It's not as is like thick of a gel.
+
+[11:07] It's more of like a a sauce now. Huh. Well, uh I haven't had that happen. My guess is that the you know, the way you're forming a fluid gel is you're breaking the particles into very tiny, tiny bits that have some affinity for themselves, but are uh are floating around in a f in a fluid so that when you when you move through them they uh you're you're they they shear apart quite easily and then regain their affinity for themselves when they're standing still. So my guess is that they uh that you more water was squeezed out of the uh the gel particles, and so the individual gel particles are becoming denser and the water phase is increasing.
+
+[11:42] And you might therefore be able to bring it back by adding a little bit of something that's gonna absorb some of the water, like Xanthan. But I don't know uh that that that's the case. That is my guess as to what's going on. What percentage of gel was it? Well, assuming uh brandy is the same density as water, which it's not, uh I went I shot for point eight percent.
+
+[12:06] Yeah. So uh uh right around point eight, it's nice, but uh but like small increases in water around that point are gonna uh decrease the viscosity a good chunk. Uh and so you that's that might be what what's happening is you the balance um the the water might be centeracing more out of the gel and just decreasing the liquid balance. I mean increasing the liquid and the balance slightly. That's my guess.
+
+[12:31] Okay. Should I try upping uh the a little bit? Not the same gun doesn't work. Uh you mean if you're going to make it again, I would just make it day of. And that way you don't have to worry about it.
+
+[12:42] Um because if you up it, you could always up it and then keep a little bit of the liquid around and then dilute it to the proper consistency at the moment that you're gonna serve it, if that makes sense. Okay. Yeah, I was trying to make Thanksgiving Day a little bit easier and as much beforehand as possible. So yeah, you can set it a little thicker, like fairly fairly thick, as long as your blender can take it, and then just keep a little bit of the liquid around and then just kind of stir in a little liquid to get the uh get the balance where you want it. Alright.
+
+[13:13] All right. Okay, thanks, Dave. All right, good luck. Good luck. Let us know how it goes.
+
+[13:17] I will. Cheers. Hi. Okay. Uh Brian Zerbius wrote in about circulators.
+
+[13:23] And uh says, first of all, I love the show and uh make my cooks listen to it during prep. I feel sorry for them, but thank you for making them uh listen to it. Uh two questions. First, what do you think about the current surge uh in popularity of street foods, mainly food trucks? Instead of the sappy weepy stuff.
+
+[13:39] Uh yeah, and you uh you can't force bartenders to do anything, is what I've learned. Uh uh, what do you think about the current surge in popularity of street foods, mainly food trucks? And second, do you think it's practical to use sous vide on a food truck? As a chef looking to open a truck in the next year here in Indianapolis, uh, I want to plan slash prep cook most of my proteins sous vide in an attempt to create an awesome dish and to I assume you mean decrease my production times without losing any quality from my guests, uh Alan Sternberg. Well, hell yes, it's good in a food truck.
+
+[14:06] I like food trucks actually. I mean, here in New York, I don't really get to eat eat at them uh very very often. I don't know. Do you ever eat in the food trucks? Not really.
+
+[14:14] When I was in Portland, I ate in some, they're not really food trucks, they're more like kind of food kiosks kinda. But I think they're great. And you know, I've had uh Chef Jeremiah Bullfrog's uh gastro pub stuff down in the Florida in the Miami. I think they're I think they're good. I think it's I think it's awesome because uh, you know, they allow they allow uh like the the thing that's good about them is it's not just like schlock artists, jerkwads who are who are opening them, you know, it's like people who want to do a very finely focused item at an inexpensive price.
+
+[14:41] A lot of people I know who are doing it are focusing on quality. And so anytime you're gonna bring quality and speed to a uh a lot of people at a reasonable price, hell yes, bonus, right, says? Yeah. Anyway, uh sous vide in a truck uh or low temperature in general truck is a fantastic idea uh as long you know as long as you uh can get the the the bottlenecks going and get a circulator that you can run it in a truck or a CVAP or something to do your re therm. Or like like do you can do if you plan your menu item properly, you can go from zero to finished in a normal procedure straight out of a refrigerator.
+
+[15:18] I'll give you an example. So I know I always talk about steak because I like cooking steak, but here's steak. So um uh I worked on a steak where I did uh I did it was a very thin rib steak, like fairly thin. I forget the exact thing. It's on the on the about three-quarters of an inch.
+
+[15:34] I had it exactly calculated. But anyway, so what you what you do is is you fully cook the thing through to 55 degrees uh 552 Celsius in a circulator, cook it long enough to get the tenurization effects you want from me. It was about two hours uh in in a bag in zippies, actually, so I didn't have to deal with uh you know board of health stuff, then uh chill it all the way down in in a fridge. Uh right, you know, don't throw it directly in ice water, let it sit out to reabsorb some of this moisture for a second, then throw it in the in a fridge, get it down in an ice bike, get it down. Store it in the fridge at refrigeration temperature, right?
+
+[15:59] Now here's the trick. It's coming out cold, but it's thin, right? So what you do is you drop the steak in a deep fryer. Just drop the steak directly in a freaking deep fryer, right out of right out of the right out of the fridge into the deep fryer, two minutes on the button. Uh it was all calculated based on thickness.
+
+[16:20] Anyway, two minutes on the button, pull it out. Now you've overcooked the outside, so unlike normal sous vide finishing, you need to rest this steak now. So it's two minutes in the fryer, two minutes rest on the plate, slice and out. Bang. And those steaks were perfect all the time.
+
+[16:34] Now they had a little more of a cooked region on the outside than you would have in a normal uh sous vide or low temperature steak, but they were just warm on the in the middle, then they were perfectly cooked throughout, and literally four minutes total and only two minutes of cook time from fridge to plate uh without having to have the steak sitting around in a circulator without even having to have a circulator at service time at all. So if you get your portions uh done that way, then you can you're all of a sudden you're like master blaster genius. So, like fried chicken, get your chicken pieces such that they just get warm in the center in let's say a two-minute fry time, so you have to calculate what that is. Pre-cook all of your white meat to 64, let's say, be on the safe side, although I like 63. Cook all of your leg meat to uh 66, although 65 is what I like to do, but 66 is good.
+
+[17:28] Uh, and then have the slices so that they'll they'll warm through. Then you can uh you know dry them out, batter them, chill them down, and now you can you can fry them from cold uh you know, and then bang, bang, bang, bang, bang, without having to ha hold warm. So in a truck, I would definitely do that rather than having to have a lot of warm holding. I would try to do mostly things that you can finish you know in whatever your finishing uh operation is. I mean, for me it would always be frying because I love frying.
+
+[17:56] Uh, but um like that. That gets rid of an extra step for the truck, which is going to make it a lot easier. Or if you want to do really high-end stuff, you could always hold things in a circulator, but it's uh it's it's great for that. Anyway, right? Yes.
+
+[18:08] Dave and Nastasha, this is in from uh from Andrew, and his last name is Janjigian, Janjigian, and I'll get to the pronunciation of it later because I butchered his name uh prior. Uh I've been looking for, and and I apologize by the way, that uh both of the things that you're about to mention, the auction's already ended because we've been gone for two weeks. But hey, whoo! What do you gonna do? Uh I've been looking for a cheapish circulator on the eBay and I found a couple of items.
+
+[18:31] But you know the eBay started by a guy who wanted to help his wife sell Pez uh Pez dispensers? Pez. Pez. Do you like Pez? Uh-huh.
+
+[18:39] I I think they are gross and I love them. Like I can't, like, I can't eat just one. I have to eat like the whole dang package of the Pez. But they're not actually good. They remind me of the aspirin, the bears, the kids' children's St.
+
+[18:50] Joe's Joseph's rather. Anyway, sorry, sorry, sorry. Uh, on the eBay and found a couple of items, both being sold by Global Machinery. I don't really know that. He said, not sure if you're familiar, but they're selling a lot of interesting equipment.
+
+[19:02] I love the name though. Global Machinery. I wish we had a name. That's an awesome name. Global machinery.
+
+[19:08] Local machinery? Yeah. Local? No. Global.
+
+[19:11] Global. Global. Anyway, okay. The first is a poly science heating recirculator Model 210. Uh, and you know, and the question is do I have any.
+
+[19:20] I think now that that's an old uh poly science uh like kind of heater circulator with an in tube and an out tube. And I've used one similar similar to that. And the second one that you linked to was a blue magic whirl water bath. Nastasha, I don't think likes the word whirl. I think it reminds her of something something gross like a leaf fungus, whirl, right?
+
+[19:39] Does now? Yeah anyway. Uh it seems like the first would work for low temperature cooking with the addition of tubing and a container. Not sure about the second one. Second one, by the way, for those of you that can't look at it on the web like we can here, actually, like I did before.
+
+[19:52] Uh one is uh a head that you stick into a bath and then have tubes that you send outside, or you can shunt them the in to the out uh so that you don't go to an external with tubing and just put it in a bath. Uh so it's it's an older version of a kind of a current model circulator, but that's meant to go into a bath and then uh you know heat an external source, but you don't need to use it that way. And the second is a contained water bath that has a drain that it's basically looks like a big kind of uh Bainbury soup warmer thing. It's itself contained just with a proport, you know, a PID controller in it. Um anyway, it seems like the first would work for low temperature cooking with the addition of tubing.
+
+[20:29] Not sure about the second. Are you familiar and do you think either is worth buying? P.S. I love the show and it helped keep me sane this summer while I hike the Pacific Crest Trail from Mexico to Canada. Thanks, Brian Zerbies.
+
+[20:39] Can you believe uh uh can wait I this one's not from Andrew, by the way. This is from Brian Zerbies. I got my questions mixed up. But anyway, I'll get to Andrew in a second. But can you believe that this guy hiked from Mexico to Canada?
+
+[20:51] That's some crazy hiking. Yeah. That's nutty bags. I mean, I'll always want to do the Appalachian Trail. Someday I'll do the Appalachian Trail.
+
+[20:57] Once my kids are in uh the college, I told my wife, hey, we're gonna hike the Appalachian Trail. She's like, Yeah, shut up, whatever. Yeah, yeah. Because she doesn't have to think about it because you got like another 10 years to worry about it. You know what I mean?
+
+[21:07] Would you like to hike the Appalachian Trail sometime? No. No, you don't like hiking? No, I do. I just wouldn't want to do it in the US.
+
+[21:12] Too many heat too many funk fungi along the way. Why would you want to want to do it in the US? I'd want to go somewhere abroad. Why? Why can't you hike here and hike there?
+
+[21:20] You're not what? I'm not patriotic like you. You're not patriot. It's a freaking election day. I voted already, by the way.
+
+[21:28] I know. Did you vote? Yes, I did, but yeah. So it has nothing to do with patriot. No, I know.
+
+[21:32] I don't give a rat but you. You really like to you really like to explore America? I don't. That's that's all. This is what I deal with on a daily folks people.
+
+[21:41] First of all, I don't care. Like I happen to love America quite a bit. All right. But even if you even if you didn't love America the way I love America, like uh we have some beautiful freaking scenery here, and the Appalachian Trail is not about putting on your durndal and going to Oktoberfest. It's about natural freaking beauty.
+
+[22:05] Yeah, freaking. Then fly to where is the people seriously. Tennessee. It's it's it runs through New York. It runs from Maine to Georgia.
+
+[22:14] So you would do the whole thing. Yeah, I want to do the whole damn thing. Wow. Anyway. Takes a couple of months.
+
+[22:20] And everyone always they start down south and then they quit, like they which I probably do too. People are like, crap on this, and then they they quit. Where? Uh well, it depends on how far how far you go. I mean, it's a long, long, and it's tough.
+
+[22:31] It's like through the mountains, and you can't carry a lot because otherwise you're carrying a lot and you can't. And so people like all the a lot of times they'll they'll bring too much on the Appalachian Trail and they'll have to throw it away or shed it halfway through. You can mail stuff to yourself halfway along so that you could pick it up at these weird little zones along there to get food and I don't know. Apparently you smell really bad. But hey, that's no news to us here in New York.
+
+[22:54] We're not gonna let some showered for like a week. Oh! Anyway, uh, well, those of us don't have hot water. Anyway, uh, you know, we're sponging ourselves off. So uh anyway, so back to the circulators.
+
+[23:04] Here's the problem with the old, I don't know how we get to the Appalachian Trail from circulators. Oh, yeah, yeah, he hiked. He hiked, he hiked. Okay, listen. Uh the problem with old circulators is this.
+
+[23:13] Uh often they are on their last legs. They've been used in a lab for a long, long time, uh, and they've been packed away. And the newer circulators are a lot better, not in terms of their temperature control, but in terms of the bearings that are in the motors. So the motor lifetime in an old circulator is not nearly what the motor life is like in a new circulator or a new circulating water bath. Now, add to that the fact that the older one has also been used for a long time, and also sometimes questionable items, right?
+
+[23:43] The second problem is the electronics in the older circulators can also go bad after a long time. It's because they've been exposed to uh moist environment for for uh a long, long time. So most of the time in an old circulator, what's gonna go bad is either the bearings or the uh electronics. Um and they're all fixable, most of them, uh, but it's a crab shoot. Now, if you get one that happens to work or is in good shape, then God bless, they work.
+
+[24:10] You know what I mean? But uh, especially nowadays, like look the ones you sell were selling for about a hundred bucks, and you you have like maybe uh 20 to 30% chance that it's gonna be no good, so you toss that money down the drain. Within a couple of months, the average circulator is gonna be between 350 and 500 for something that's guaranteed to work. You know what I mean? So I would probably go that route in st instead, unless you like to take crapshoots.
+
+[24:35] And I'm with you, I do, I do like to take crapshoots. Anywho, now on to Andrew uh John Johnjiggins, John Janjigian, Janjigian. Okay, I'm gonna get to it made. On fry oil, two Nastasha and Dave. Thanks for covering my fat saturation and frying question a few weeks back.
+
+[24:52] I was a bit behind on listening to the podcast and just heard this segment the other day. I had a follow-up question. If continuous batch frying operations use a blend of fresh and partially oxidized fats, can a home cook do the same thing, save the previous batch of oil and blend it with fresh the next time around. Also, I forgive you for butchering my name on the air. You are right, I should have provided pronunciation assistance.
+
+[25:11] It is a hard G as in pig. Otherwise, you had it right. Uh by the way, I like that someone's like, G is in pig, not G is not G is in something else. Like he's like pig. Well, you're right about saturated.
+
+[25:21] Right? That's good. Saturated fat's pig. Anyway, finally, I seem to recall uh Dave saying he was a sample of uh the uh William S. Burroughs, a fan of William S.
+
+[25:30] Burroughs, which reminds me of one of my favorite old food-related WSB quotes. I hate sprouts. They put them on everything they serve. Eating sprouts is like going down on a robot. Damn.
+
+[25:40] Damn, I'm hearing some damn from the engineering room over there. Damn. Cheers, Andrew. John Jiggian. Well, I mean, it's a robot.
+
+[25:48] You could do anything you want to a robot, right? You can't have an X-rated robot, can you? I mean, it's a robot. Uh I I don't think I have ever mentioned that. I mean, like I I, like almost everyone, have read uh some burrows, ex like naked lunch freaked me the heck out because I read it as a teenager.
+
+[26:04] Probably, oh my god. You read that stuff, Stuff? Oh no. You've never read Burroughs? I don't think so.
+
+[26:09] Jack and Joe, you're Burroughs readers, right? What the hell's wrong with you people? You know, great American look. Look, first of all, anyone who's a connoisseur of the crazy has to like a little bit of the burrows. Burroughs, when he was like, you know, 75 or 80 was something, his last boyfriend was like, I don't know, it's crazy.
+
+[26:29] He's crazy. Go research some burrows. He's a nut job. Anyway, whether you like him or whether you hate him, that is one of the great sprout quotes, and I believe entirely accurate. Now, back to your frying question.
+
+[26:41] Usually when you're frying at home, if you're actually deep frying, the first couple of things you fry, uh, especially if you've overheated it, which is normally what happens in home frying, you've ruined the oil enough to have it be a good frying situation. Um that said, uh, you can uh save a portion of your oil and blend it back. But fry the fry oil uh really kind of tempers itself out pretty quickly. Uh but yeah, I don't see why you can't, you know, you don't want to, you don't want to, you don't want to add so much back that it degrades before you're finished frying. So the here's the answer.
+
+[27:14] If usually at the end of frying the stuff's tasting bad and the stuff's smelling bad, and you smell that kind of fishy, broken down fat uh aroma in your kitchen, which by the way, that smell makes me want to puke. You like that smell stuff? It makes you want to puke, right? Yeah, if you're smelling that at the end of your frying, then you can't afford to have it go off any faster. If at the end of uh your frying sessions, the oil smells entirely neutral and awesome, and when you throw a bread uh crouton into it and eat it, it still tastes uh clean.
+
+[27:46] Then, yeah, you could save some of that and add it back. It's not gonna be a problem. So it depends on how abusive you are to your oil. That makes sense, though? Uh-huh.
+
+[27:53] Anyway, going down on a robot. Michael Nakin writes in. Hey, Dave, Nastasha et al. I was pondering uh our friend Michael Nakin, right? Uh, who I don't think I I don't think I've ever met him personally.
+
+[28:05] Have you ever met him personally? Didn't no. I thought he came to the bar. Did he? I don't know.
+
+[28:10] No, I don't think not when I was there. Uh I was pondering why refrigeration always breaks down while stoves and ovens are much more reliable. I'll tell you why. I think it's a freaking racket. You notice how your home fridge never breaks down?
+
+[28:23] Hey, Jack and Joe, is your home fridge ever broken? Yeah, right? Stas, is your home fridge ever broken? My parents, yeah. Your parents, but how old was that fridge?
+
+[28:34] Who knows? Yeah, right. I mean, like, you know, it's the first fridge ever made. You know? What about you?
+
+[28:38] Have you ever had a fridge? No. My home fridges have never broken. For a four-year period, I had a commercial fridge in my house and it broke four times. Commercial refrigeration sucks.
+
+[28:49] Here's a little known fact. Commercial refrigeration sucks. And uh, you know, by and large, I mean, I you know, I like the good folks at uh, you know, Randell. But and I think it's a racket. Here's what commercial refrigeration people will tell you.
+
+[29:02] They'll say, they'll say, look, a home fridge, you don't have to open and close it all the time. You open and close the commercial fridges, and they they they go through a lot more abuse, and that's why they break. No, it's because they build them like crap. It's they vibrate. You ever notice how loud commercial refrigeration is compared to a normal refrigerator?
+
+[29:18] It's because they just don't put the stuff together as well. They don't insulate it as well, and they don't solder it as well. There's no reason why a compressor should rattle itself apart, develop a leak, throw out its uh refrigerant and have to be recharged every couple of years, like you do in commercial refrigeration. No reason. Anyway, enough of a rant on commercial refrigeration.
+
+[29:36] Well, uh well, a lot of people have had their home stoves break, and your gas, regular old gas stove is a freaking demon. The only thing that breaks in commercial gas stoves is the little bezoval valve in the oven. Or if you have an electric one, they break all the time. Whatever. Anyway.
+
+[29:51] Uh, yeah, so stoves uh reliable, especially gas ones. And that's one of the reasons, by the way, that Americans are so resi aside from the fact that our natural gas is so freaking cheap, and that um and that the feedback loop for a for a cook looking at a gas flame is one of the great uh kind of visual feedback loops of all time, right up there with the with the two switches and a paddle and a vita prep. Uh one of the reasons that we favor gas over uh electricity and especially induction is even though it's horribly inefficient, is because uh they never break gas uh gas ranges, never break. Anyway, rarely break. Um okay.
+
+[30:29] Uh anyway, Michael's pondering why refrigeration breaks down, and he says, obviously it's primarily because of compressors, which are a lot more complicated than just piping gas somewhere and burning the crap out of it, like a stove does. Which goes back to the idea of entropy. I'm no physicist, but I believe when you're adding heat to a system, you're increasing the entropy and therefore doing what the universe wants to do while taking uh heat out of something reduces entropy, so you're fighting an uphill battle. Well, actually, I mean heat and entropy uh uh are are are separate, right? So entropy is a measure of kind of uh the disorderness or the number of states that something can take on.
+
+[31:01] Well, you know, heat is uh, you know, a form of energy that you are a adding or removing. So changes in entropy and heat often go hand in hand. I mean, obviously you can have isentropic, i.e. same same entropy things, same heat things, and you can have something where heat doesn't go in and out, but entropy. Anyway, so in other words, they are separate.
+
+[31:18] They're the two main things that you're dealing with when you're dealing with kind of thermodynamic changes, but they're not they're not the same. Anyway, uh anyhow, uh back to Michael. Anyhow, all this amusing got me thinking about whether you could chill food by using an endothermic reaction, i.e., one that uh one that gets gets colder, one that uh absorbs energy. The opposite of burning fuel to produce an exothermic reaction, rather than by compressing and expanding a gas. I found one patent on the topic, and it was about using uh salts, uh potassium uh I think it was potassium chloride or something like that.
+
+[31:44] Uh I found one patent uh uh interestingly assigned to the Coca-Cola company, and apparently motorhome refrigerators work on an endothermic reaction involving uh ammonia as well. Uh who knew? So my questions are do you know of any other commercial systems that use endothermic reactions for refrigeration? And do you think there are any potential for having them uh potential for them to make more reliable restaurant refrigeration or any other ideas for solving that problem? Thanks, Michael Natkin.
+
+[32:11] Okay, so listen, here's the deal. So an endothermic, there's there's the the two things that you point to are two different kinds of reactions. So in an in a normal uh like endothermic reactions take place because um so normally most reactions that take place spontaneously are exothermic, they give off heat. In order for something endothermic to take place naturally without having to add anything to it, the entropy increase needs to be so great that it basically wants to wants to happen anyway. So certain salts when they dissolve, certain things when they dissolve, um, they absorb heat and make things colder, right, because it's so favored for them to dissolve in that situation that it actually it actually overrides the fact that they need to absorb uh heat energy from the outside.
+
+[32:54] So that's how those salts work. And that that patent that you uh did was Coca-Cola was trying to figure out a way to make a soda machine in space because compressor situations, normal compressor uh based refrigeration don't work uh properly in a zero gravity situation. So they were trying to figure out a way that they could add uh salts that um have an endothermic reaction when they dissolve and create a refrigeration system that way. It's not so efficient to use as a continuous refrigeration system on Earth because it's harder to regenerate the salt, and after you dissolve it, then you gotta remove the liquid again from it using heat to boil it down and then redo it. And so it's not so efficient a way to do it here on Earth, but you can use it for individual cold packs.
+
+[33:33] And they sell cold packs that work that way where you have an endothermic chemical reaction, and then once that chemical reaction is over, then sometimes you can regenerate it and sometimes you can't. But it's not necessarily so good for long-term situations. The R V thing is an extremely interesting type of refrigeration. All the refrigeration that we use, you compress a uh a liquid, condense it down, and then spray it out, and as it expands, right, that change in pressure uh it it creates the cold, right? So that that's where where it comes from.
+
+[34:04] Uh that you know, you acquires heat, absorbs from the outside, boom, right? Uh so it's expansion, it's two pressures. RV refrigerators work uh in a single pressure system. And what's awesome about that is it doesn't require any moving parts. So the way they work is you heat up uh a mixture of ammonia and water, because ammonia wants to dissolve in water, right?
+
+[34:23] Very badly. So uh you heat that up and you boil the ammonia in the whole system's under one, but large, but under one pressure. The ammonia boils off. As it boils off, the water is stripped away from it. It goes up physically up, like you know, gravity-wise, up, because it's now a gas, goes into a condenser where the uh ammonia under pressure under the same pressure, the whole system's under one pressure, that's the key, uh, turns back to a liquid in the condenser and then drifts back into a zone also the same pressure that has uh primarily hydrogen gas.
+
+[34:53] And uh what and strangely, very counterintuitively actually, what happens when the ammonia goes from being a liquid in a pure ammonia environment to being added to a gas is gaseous hydrogen environment is it evaporates. And the reason it evaporates is it wants is it there's a very low, what's called partial pressure of ammonia in that hydrogen region, and so the ammonia needs to evaporate to kind of ameliorate that lack of partial pressure that it has, and that uh requires a lot of energy, which it absorbs from uh the inside of the RV fridge. Then that uh now heavier thing trickles down where it meets the water again and is absorbed into the water and goes and boils and the whole thing keeps going like a big cycle uh and all you're doing is adding heat in the with the heater and removing it using room temperature uh air in the condenser section. So it's a very interesting system. You can run, in fact, if you have a camp uh that only has propane, you run your fridge and your uh blah blah.
+
+[35:52] What's the what's the word blah blah I'm looking for? Your stove and your refrigerator off of the one propane thing. So you can use it. I don't know why they don't use them in uh in large systems in restaurants. Maybe maybe they're I mean they should see they should be reliable.
+
+[36:05] I don't know why. It's an interesting question, Michael. Something we should look at, right? Something maybe to look at anyway. Okay, uh Mike uh Matthew writes in about sausages.
+
+[36:14] Hey Dave, Nastasha, Nastasia, and crew. I had a couple of questions on circulating sausage. This coming Sunday, which is over, unfortunately. Sorry, Matthew. Uh I'm throwing a party where I'll be serving about a hundred sausages.
+
+[36:25] I want to circulate the sausages ahead of time to eliminate as much day of prep uh day of day of prep cooking as possible, and then reheat them and sear them on a grill. Do you feel that the quality of the sausages will deteriorate if they are cooked 24 to 48 hours ahead of time? My plan is to circulate them for about an hour in a 65 degree bath. I chose 65 since they are chicken sausages, and I think that's a safe temp for them. That's true.
+
+[36:45] Any other suggestions on circulating sausages? Any good ideas on a liquid to use in the bag with a chicken and chorizo sausage. I'm pretty curious about uh how best to hold the circulated sausages and how long they can be held without deteriorating quality. Thanks for any help on this. Uh also uh now then listen, right back because your event might have been uh canceled because it was in Williamsburg, and so it might be in the future now.
+
+[37:07] It was supposed to be on 1028, right? That was right when the hurricane was hitting, right? Okay, so uh the company Landhouse is throwing a grand opening bash at the Woods Bar in Williamsburg where they've started serving food on a permanent basis. Uh the menu uh on the day is going to increase include Heritage Pork from Heritage Foods. And the party was supposed to be 2 to 6 uh PM uh on 1028 at the woods on South 4th Street between White and Kent, Williamsburg.
+
+[37:30] Maybe it's gonna maybe it was postponed, in which case, you know, please put a plug in. I'm sure Heritage Radio will tweet it out. Will you not, Jack? You will, you'll tweet it out. He will.
+
+[37:36] He's not on the thing, but he'll tweet it out. Uh okay. The thing you have to worry about with sausages being cooked ahead of time is to get all the oxygen out of the bag. You can use a liquid, uh, but uh, you know, uh that a regular like a water based liquid, but I would stick with a fat chorizo fat would be a really good choice, actually, because you don't really need that much, especially if you're putting it in zippies to cook off. The problem with sausages held for a long time is that uh with any sausage is the development of rancidity, aka what's known as warmed over flavors.
+
+[38:04] And what happens is is that it's uh auto oxidation and and the the further things that are that are taken out, uh that the further uh chemical breakdown of fats uh when they're exposed to uh oxygen. And the weird thing about warmed over flavor is it happens in animal meats because it's the actual cell membrane fats, the phospholipid things that break down uh because you when you cook something and then hold it afterwards, you release iron from hemoglobin uh and other iron containing things. That iron now becomes available to help catalyze auto oxidation, just like in a deep fryer of the fatty ashy tissues. So, but it requires oxygen. So I'd get rid of oxygen.
+
+[38:39] Uh I would add uh an antioxidant. Rosemary is a great antioxidant, but Nastasha can't add it because she's exposed to too much rosemary during the time she was working with Chesaree Casella, our good friend, uh, but lover of rosemary. Vitamin E. Uh you could add any other sort of fat-based antioxidant. Um, and there's a couple uh things you can look at on the also if you pre-sear the sausages a little bit to give a mired reaction or throw mired stuff, that might have an antioxidant effect that will uh decrease warmed over flavor.
+
+[39:08] Um and other also not storing for too long is gonna reduce the amount of what's called warmed over flavor. But just do a search on warmed over flavor or WOF. Specifically, the mechanism responsible for warmed over flavor and cooked meat in 1983. Uh also you could wick it, Wikipedia if you want it. Also, the 2005 uh article, comparison of natural rosemary extract and BHA BHT for relative antioxidant uh effectiveness in pork sausage and the antioxidant mired reaction uh products for uh application in sausage by Lingert and Lungren in 2007.
+
+[39:40] Take a look at that. Uh and then we're ripping through this stuff. Uh dear uh Daniel Price writes, Dear Nastasha, Jack, uh Dave, and Joe, hi again from the West Coast. I wanted to thank you all again for the show, and I have a couple of cocktail questions. First, this weekend I made a big batch of uh clarified Bartlett pear juice using the agar agar method.
+
+[39:58] For fun, I tried uh treating my puree with pectanex ultra SPL and steeping at 45 degrees Celsius for 20 minutes to increase the yield. It was hard to tell if it worked. Is there some visual clue when using Pectanex? Regardless, the agar method worked and the juice was great, and I was able to combine it with champagne and pear brandy for a crystal for crystal clear pear bellinis, but I have a lot of juice left. Can I freeze clarified juices without significant problems?
+
+[40:20] Yes, you can freeze them without significant problems if that juice was stable to begin with. So uh normal, you know, like lime juice is not stable, so you can't freeze it and hope to preserve it, but pear juice is relatively stable, and so you can freeze it and preserve it. Uh you might want to let it sit longer. You should be able to tell. It should self-clarify a little bit, unless it's a thick puree, in which case you won't see it, but you're definitely going to increase your yield by adding pectanex beforehand, uh, sometimes dramatically.
+
+[40:45] Second, I was wondering what do you think about the efficacy of digestifs? Do they really aid the digestion, or is that just marketing? If yes, do you think the flavorings matter, or is it just the alcohol content? I've always thought it was kind of BS, but you know, I I'm gonna look into that more. I I didn't have a chance this morning to look in because they there's a bunch of articles about serving herbs to chickens and rabbits, is seeing whether it increases their growth weight uh when you're feeding them in farms, and so like that might be an indication whether they actually work in humans.
+
+[41:10] So more on that, more on that later. Um I'm gonna get to I'm gonna get through these. I'm gonna get through these. Dave. Well, how long how Jack, how much longer do I have?
+
+[41:22] Jack or Joe. A couple of okay, Joshua, you have a beer question. I'm gonna get back to you on that beer next week. Uh, but okay, now Nastasha, with the email that came through, I'm gonna pronounce your name incorrectly. Uh I remember you from the class because he's like he's he's anyway, interesting stories.
+
+[41:43] Anyway, co miles, but co miles, but like he said he had. He's the one who wanted to go out with you after that. But he gave the pronunciation. Yeah. But I can't see the pronunciation on my.
+
+[41:55] Anyway, yeah. First, please tell Dave I had a boatload of fun in a sous vide low temp course at the uh International Culinary Center. It was great. Thanks so much. Second, I would like to get Dave's recommendations for one, the best high-end home extrusion pasta maker, and two, the best high-end home ice cream maker.
+
+[42:07] Hope you're doing well. I continue to look forward to your weekly show. By the way, congratulations on passing the 100 show mark. Thanks in advance. Uh okay.
+
+[42:13] Here are the two machines I would look at for uh for pasta. The Arco Bellino, the one that uh ideas and food uh gets they pump that all the time because they were given one for free, by the way. I still let everyone know they were given one for free. Oh, it's a fantastic machine. I used that one at Starchefs a couple of years ago, and it is awesome.
+
+[42:31] I think it's around three grand, two and a half, three grand, something like that. It's amazing. Um the guys at JB Prince don't carry that one, they carry a different one that they call Dolly, which I haven't used, but I've seen it. And uh Tim Musig, my friend at JB Prince, assures me that that one also works in a similar way to the Arcabolino. On home ice cream, most people use that $350 uh kind of uh um musso machine, like the Lelo ice musso machine.
+
+[42:55] But I can't really recommend it because the batch times are too long on it, and that's in the $300 range. Now, if you jump up, you have to jump, now you're jumping, way up, to like the several thousand dollar range. Paco jets are awesome. It's not a traditional ice cream machine, but they are awesome. Now, the one that I always wanted to get was not has not been available in the US for a long time, but they still make and you can get in European websites is uh the Pronto 4, which is made by Carpeggiani.
+
+[43:20] Carpegani machines are amazing. The Pronto 4 is a small vertical uh batch machine that I believe does one quart. Uh, and they're by all accounts, I've never used one. Awesome. And then when I was researching that to make sure that they still make it, they make a new thing, Carpeg Johnny makes that I've never used before, but please check this one out and look on the web.
+
+[43:39] It's got a batch time of they say five minutes, and it uses a small canister like a Paco Jet, but the canister has a freezing uh mechanism in it. Now it's only got 300 watts of I think three or four hundred watts of freezing, but it does small batches at a time, and they claim five minute batch times and only two or three minutes in between batches. It's called the freeze and go, and it's meant to be an extremely small unit. It's the size of kind of a relatively large drip coffee maker. And so if I have more time to research it, had time to use one, I definitely would uh take a look at the Carpagani freeze and go.
+
+[44:12] Alright, here's the last one gonna be able to get to today because uh I'm gonna get ripped off the air. I have a couple questions I'm gonna miss. I'll get you next week, I promise, even though some of them are already too late. Greg writes in about sauces. Hiya, Nastasha, not Dave, and not Jack, but maybe Indie Jesus.
+
+[44:28] Wow. I like that. Wow. Well, yeah, yeah. That means you have to answer it.
+
+[44:32] I'll read it, you answer it. First, I hope you uh you folks and all your friends and family in New York City and New Jersey are recovering from Sandy. I guess I need to get out more because uh you were all on my mind a lot during the storm. Well, thank you. Sadly, because of travel, I'm often weeks behind on the show, but I listen to each and every episode like it's church for a dying sinner.
+
+[44:48] Maybe Indie Jesus will save me with his hipster blessings. Uh a fellow from New Zealand named Rory wrote in with a question about brown uh the brown band at the top of a blended pepper sauce. Rory thought this might be due to oxidation, and I think this saved uh Dave on a red herring. Based on the recipe of the sauce, vinegar, pepper, garlic, ginger, and salt, and this is important with no other additives. I think we're seeing simple stratification here.
+
+[45:10] I think Rory's seeing capsation rising to the top of the bottle. To prevent this, I'd add a little Xanthan gum or lessithin to the mix to keep things emulsified. This leaves to a question. Uh for a three to six months room temperature shelf life, which is better in the long term, xanthan or lessithin. Let's assume we've already dealt with oxidation and ascorbic acid.
+
+[45:28] My bet is on less it then because it works on a molecular level, whereas Xanthan works more on a mechanical level. What do you think? You guys rock, take care, Greg. Alright. Um well, I mean, they're different.
+
+[45:40] One is a stabilizer, so I would definitely have Xanthan's gonna stop things because it's gonna form a weak gel over time. That's how salad dressings are stabilized, and the other one's an emulsifier, which actually makes it easier for things to stay together. I don't know that I would choose less it then as an emulsifier. I'd probably choose a different emulsifier. But I typically, like when we're doing long-term health sauces, we'll use a combination of an emulsifier and a stabilizer.
+
+[46:00] So Xanthan plus an emulsifier. So if you like Zet uh lesson, use that. I would use both. In other words, it's not uh one or the other. And I think they're gonna rip me off the air, but listen, Ben!
+
+[46:10] Ben Dweck, if you're gonna buy your rice cooker now, he wanted to know whether he has an old Zoji Rushi uh and he wants to know whether he should get that or whether there's a better one. Zoji Rushi for my money make the best rice cookers on the market. I own one, have used one, NeuroFuzzy, the big one for years, induction, and it rocks. I don't know whether the pressure cooking thing is a gimmick. I don't know about the alpha versus ba uh beta starch.
+
+[46:31] I'll try to do more research on it, but pressure cooking is gonna make brown rice softer and cook it faster, and everyone knows waiting for brown rice is a pain in the butt. Cooking is huge. Thanks for listening to this program on heritage radio network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio.
+
+[47:14] You can email us questions at any time at info at heritageradio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by the International Culinary Center. Offering courses that range from classic French techniques in culinary, pastry, and bread baking to Italian studies to management. From culinary technology to food writing, from cake making to wine tasting. For more information, visit International Culinary Center.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwood Brooklyn.
+
+[0:23] If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Many people in our food community have been seriously impacted by Superstorm Sandy, and our hearts go out to them. At HRN, we've been covering these stories since the storm hit. To learn more, visit our website at www.heritage radio network.org. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:55] This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you live in the back of Robert's Pizzeria on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from roughly 12 to roughly 1245. Joined as usual in the studio with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, Jack and Joe in the engineering room, and today we have a special guest, Piper from Booker and Dax Research Lab downtown. Hey Pipes, how you doing? Good? Yeah, it's called a microphone.
+
+[1:17] You gotta talk into it. Uh so I have another person I can brutalize on air, right? It's good business, no? It's good. Anyway, calling all your questions to 7184972128.
+
+[1:26] That's 718497-2128. Uh all right, so let's get to some of the email questions that we uh we have already. Uh we oh no, again with the not getting the right uh thing on my iPad. Okay. Uh this is from Paul K.
+
+[1:40] Hi all. Thanks for your work on the great show, and thanks for answering all my past questions. My latest question is about baking. In general, I'm happy with the results of my once per month attempt at baking bread. However, I'm always a little disappointed by the small or perhaps non-existent oven spring that I get.
+
+[1:54] I haven't had any real life training. My only knowledge is from books, but my impression from those books is that oven spring is to be expected and should be noticeable. Although my bread does rise nicely before putting it in the oven, i.e. I guess when he's proofing, uh, as I say, I'm always a little disappointed with the amount it springs during those first few minutes of baking. Perhaps I simply shouldn't expect to see anything dramatic.
+
+[2:16] Any help would be most appreciated, all the best. Paul. Okay. Uh all right. Here's a the the problem it first of all, I am by no means a uh uh a bread expert.
+
+[2:28] There are people who all they do all day, all night is uh think about uh bread. And so you know you always hesitate when there's people like that out there to make any kind of statement at all. But that said, I feel confident that I don't know enough information right now to answer um your question. So, what we need for a real troubleshooting of uh of your bread recipe. First of all, what style of bread are you making?
+
+[2:49] Like what what are you looking to get? Like, do you want a dense crumb structure, a very open cut crumb structure, what kind of crust? Crumb structure is a gross word, huh? Yeah. Nastasha just made her crumb structure face, which is very similar to vegan face, like slight difference, only I can tell.
+
+[3:04] Uh but the it's so there's that, right? And then uh in general, uh I need to know kind of what hydration level you're using, so like what what kind of uh you know what's what style of flour, first of all, what you're how much water you're adding to the flour, and then how you're raising it and forming it uh and proofing it and whatnot. In general, um, oven spring is uh generated first of all, most of the stuff that I that I read on the on the on the inner line, what do you call it? Internet. On the internet about uh about oven spring.
+
+[3:36] A lot of it is kind of BS. Uh specifically, I don't think that uh some people say this because you're increasing the the rate of yeast reaction at the last minute as the bread is baking, uh, and that's what's doing it. I think that's almost almost probably certainly not the case because the oven spring happens very, very quickly, and probably not enough time for yeast to start reacting and all of a sudden producing uh CO2 in overdrive. I think what what's going on uh is you need a high initial heat, uh high initial burst of heat in the oven to rapidly expand the gases in the cell of the dough structure and then set the dough structure before the dough structure breaks. Uh and so what what you're looking at to get a good oven spring is one, there has to be a good gluten network in there that's going to allow it to hold the gas as it expands.
+
+[4:21] Uh it's gonna have to be uh kind of formed properly, and it's gonna have to have enough air bubbles in it already that can expand. Right? So it's formation of the of the you know right number of and you know amount size of air bubbles, getting them kind of big enough, but keeping the structure of the dough intact so that it can raise up and uh and spring, getting up very high heat both from the bottom and from the uh top, so with a baking stone at the bottom with a very initial uh high preheat, and then with steam injection or some form of steam to get a rapid uh rapid heat transfer into the loaf on the on the and uh forget I'm not even talking about the actual development of what the crust is like, which is not a thing that steam can do, but I'm just saying rapid heat into the into the dough. A third thing is uh proper slashing pattern in the dough uh will allow uh heat to get in and allow it to expand more, uh like physically allow it to r uh expand more. So there's the slashing patterns that you make on it.
+
+[5:17] There's uh proper formation of the dough, proper proofing of it, like like uh, and making sure that the dough has the proper structure to get it to to work properly. But very difficult to uh figure out exactly which one of those problems you have. Most likely your oven's not tricked out enough for it. I mean, I don't know. I don't know what kind of what kind of oven that you're using.
+
+[5:36] There's an interesting book that uh I haven't read before, but that uh gets very high recommendations, and I want to read it called Bread Science, the Chemistry and Craft of Breadmaking, which uh came out fairly recently. And there's uh a bunch of chunks on the uh you know on the internet that you can read of that on their on their website. Uh and then I would look at um, you know, a fresh loaf and those other kind of like large kind of uh conglomeration of uh bloggers who get together and talk about this stuff. I mean, it i if you're if you're just baking occasionally, sometimes it can be difficult to wade through all the information uh that they they provide, and of course, a lot of it's red herrings because everyone, you know, like all of us are just experimenting all the time. But anyway, I hope that helps.
+
+[6:14] That doesn't seem like it made any sense at all. Yes. No? Yeah. Uh all right.
+
+[6:19] Hello and good morning team cooking issues. I like that team cooking issues, not cooking issues team, team cooking issues. You appreciate that? Okay. Can you describe the pros and cons of open and closed baths for low temperature cooking?
+
+[6:29] A friend is tempted to purchase a sous-vide supreme rather than poly science immersion circulator for home use because the salesperson suggested that an open bath will cause the temperature to fluctuate and cause a loss of control. The guy was a schmuck. Thank you, Matthew in Chicago. Well, I don't know the man that you're discussing uh personally. I didn't see him, but based on the one statement we have of his, which is that an open uh bath circulator is gonna have uh large temperature fluctuations, yes, he is a schmuck.
+
+[6:59] So if the rest of his thinking is in line with the thinking he he uh gave you right there, then yes, uh a schmuck call is in order. The dip the main difference between the sous-vive supreme and the uh and and a real immersion circulator isn't necessarily whether it's covered or not, because it's very easy to cover a uh you know a bath when you when you use an immersion circulator. Uh the main difference is in the circulation itself. Now, to go back for a second, in case, I don't know, in case like someone scrapped you down to a chair and uh this your torture is to listen to this radio show and you haven't listened to it before, what we're talking about are pieces of equipment that allow you to do low temperature cooking. Cooking at very precise temperatures that are very close to the actual temperature you want to cook to.
+
+[7:39] All right, so that's low temperature cooking. And the main piece of equipment that most of us use to do that is the immersion circulator. And what that does is it keeps water at a very, very, or anything really, uh any liquid, at a very accurate temperature and allows you to do all these new effects that you have for low temperature cooking. Now, there's uh you notice the word immersion circulator. So there's circulation of water, and the circulation is what allows you to get uh very um even temperatures over the entire bath, you know, with to within like a couple tenths of a degree.
+
+[8:06] Now, if you don't cover that circulating bath, uh what's gonna happen is you will get evaporation off of the surface of the uh of the of the bath, right? And so you'll be losing a lot of heat. And if you didn't have adequate circulation, you will get a temperature stratification in the bath, right? I mean, no, no duh, obviously, you'll get temperature stratification. But um adequate circulation is gonna prevent any real stratification of temperature uh once you get any reasonable depth below the bottom of the above below the surface of the water.
+
+[8:38] Now, if you have an unstirred bath, right, uh the sir the situation is horrible. What happens if you do not cover an unstirred bath, you will get constant evaporation uh off of the surface, and you will get uh, in essence, over time a temperature gradient established as uh wal as water evaporates off of the top of the bath, and by evaporating cools it because it's evaporative cooling, and so you'll get a uh you'll get a temperature gradient set up that probably is fairly static over a long cook once it settles out, I would guess. Um assuming that humidity of your room remains constant. Now, uh aside from the fact uh what I just said that you must at all times cover a uh non-circulating bath uh and that you don't need to necessarily cover a circulating bath to uh to get an accurate temperature, it is always good practice to cover a circulating bath. Always good practice because uh you lose so much energy through the top of the um to the top of the bath uh you know as things evaporate that A, uh sometimes in larger bath situations your circulator might not have enough power to get it up to the temperature that you want because they only typically have between 750 and a thousand watts of heating power.
+
+[9:50] Uh two, you are going to take a lot longer to come up to temperature than you otherwise would. And three, you're going to be evaporating off uh stuff like uh like a mother. And and so even over relatively short cooking times, you're gonna lose water. Over long cooking times, like overnight, you could potentially boil uh or not boil, but evaporate all the water out of your bath and your product can be ruined. And fourth, in a in a circulated bath, if you've done a bad job and not put a uh uh a rack or some sort of weight uh on top of your food such that it's like definitively sunk under the surface of the liquid, uh, you know, if you cover it, even if a little bit pokes up, you'll still get a fairly close temperature as long as the thing's totally sealed and covered up to what you want.
+
+[10:32] It's just not as effective a heat transfer mechanism. So always a good idea to cover a bath, the only exception being if you're uh have a reheat bath at a relatively low temperature during service and you're going in and out of it all the time. But uh under other circumstances, I always, always, always recommend uh covering the bath. Yeah? Yeah.
+
+[10:52] Yeah. How are you doing, Nastasha? Yeah? Anything anything good happening? Nope.
+
+[10:56] We got some uh good news on the on the Booker and Dax front. Tristan Willie, uh, you know, the opening uh or you know, the guy who opened it with us, you know, the manager of Booker Dax, one best bartender in the country, according to Eater. You've been asking. Wow. You guys are quick on the uh quick on the on the clap a ton there, right?
+
+[11:14] So that was good news, right? Yeah, that's great, man. It's good business. Love myself some Tristan Williams. A little too tall for my taste, but other than that, good man, right?
+
+[11:23] Yeah, yeah. Uh okay. Uh we have a question in from uh Matt Mincer on brines. Hello, cooking issues, folks. I've got a question or three about brines.
+
+[11:33] When I barbecue pork or chicken, I make a brine with a heavy dose of my dry rub in it. The theory being that the water is being drawn into the meat uh and will carry some of that flavor uh from the spice with it. But I was listening to one of your podcasts where Harold McGee said that the flavor molecules from spices are probably too large to penetrate the cells of the meat. The question I uh I have is am I wasting my time and my spices by adding them to the brine? Has anybody studied which flavor molecules will penetrate the meat, if any?
+
+[11:58] And finally, how much brining is too much? It seems at some point the osmosis would reach equilibrium and anything more would give diminishing returns. Uh, I'm sure it depends on the cut of meat, but is there any rule of thumb? Thanks, Matt. And a PS I wrote in a few weeks ago about using mason jars in my centrifuge, and for the record, they work about 75% of the time.
+
+[12:16] The other twenty five, not so much. I'm assuming what that means is like awful things happened, right? And when you assume Piper that what he means is awful things have happened. Yes. Yeah.
+
+[12:25] Yeah, that's my guess. So uh yeah, it's Piper's first time on the radio. He, you know, he's not so much with the with the radio thing. He's he's a he's from Vermont. They don't have radios there yet.
+
+[12:36] Right? Is that true, Piper? Very true. Yeah. So here's the deal.
+
+[12:41] I think uh you're pretty much right and uh Harold's pretty much right in that most brines don't really penetrate the meat uh to a very large distance and so you're probably wasting a good bit of your spices. However, like brining something uh we're getting some sort of feedback action. You get in the hearing that Jack? Some sort of feedback action it's Piper's phone. It's Piper's phone?
+
+[13:02] Nice. Uh Vermont. So the uh the the the thing is is that um I think you could probably get pretty much the same uh reaction by doing your brine and then rubbing your spices on after it comes out of the brine. I mean that that's what I would do. Salt obviously gets carried into the meat um because it's an extremely small molecule.
+
+[13:24] You know I don't really know what the penetration effects of something like sugar is nitrates penetrate in obviously otherwise curing wouldn't work but larger molecules tend I think not to make it into into the meat. I think that's uh that's accurate fact acids tend to do certain work but they tend not to penetrate far which is why you get kind of a different texture on the surface of a meat or any place where there's a cleft in the meat where things can get into it you can get effect from acids and intermuscular connections and stuff but you're not going to get uh an effect from uh something like that in the dead center of a piece of meat in any reasonable amount uh amount of time uh I think you're right. I think that you know there is a diminishing uh diminishing return time, but that diminishing return time is going to depend uh almost primarily on the thickness of the piece of meat you use and the brine strength that you use. Uh so there's no real no real rule of thumb on brining the same way there would be on, let's say kind of curing, where everything's been written down uh by uh you know the the USDA and the various curing authorities on it. I mean Piper, you know any rule of thumb?
+
+[14:27] Any you disagree with anything I've said? No. No? Yeah, nice, nice. I need some of your pipe.
+
+[14:33] You need to like you do disagree with me. Are you gonna be like Nastasha where you don't disagree with me on air and then later you're gonna tell me I'm a douche? No, he'll tell me. He'll tell you that I'm a douche? Yeah.
+
+[14:42] And then you'll tell me and I'll yell at you. Is that is that how this is gonna work? Change of command. Oh jeez. Oh, jeez.
+
+[14:49] Alright, listen. Hey Jack, let's go to our first commercial break. Come back with more cooking issues. You're listening to Kill Me in the Summertime by Dead Stars on the Heritage Radio Network. Nothing left to hide.
+
+[15:20] Let this what they say. Sun erases again everything I move in for a need to in the summer time. The International Culinary Center is a proud sponsor of the Heritage Radio Network.org. The ICC with locations in New York and California provide cutting edge education to future chefs, restaurateurs, and wine professionals. We're proud to claim Dan Barber, Bobby Clay, and David Chang among our honored alumni.
+
+[16:57] This is Dorothy Can Hamilton from Chef's Story. Check out our ICC website at international culinarycenter.com. Did you guys steal that music from like uh the Hayden Planetariums like universe movie that they play right when you show up? It sounds like it. Maybe like Wizard of Oz on the loop or something too, I'm not sure.
+
+[17:17] Yes, it's crazy. I think that's what it is, though. It's like you know, you go and they're like, They're billions of stars, and it's like wheely deedly deeply. Can you can you play me a little bit of that wheedly deeply music? I want some of that some of that like universe.
+
+[17:27] You know what I'm saying? Like the spinning stars and stuff. Maybe we can like fade that in with uh fish is fish is vodka. Uh don't mess don't mess with the fish is fish song. Alright, I don't know.
+
+[17:35] Don't be messing don't be messing with the fish is fish song. Uh the uh the you know the Oh, by the way, we have we we haven't talked about that, right? You want to talk about the song that got sent in, the Fish is Fishes vodka? Yes, it's uh you know, uh because we couldn't play vicious, vicious vodka. We have a we have a sound-alike song, and so does the title.
+
+[17:52] And it was composed by uh someone on Twitter, Jack. Do you remember the name of the person? Jack doesn't remember. You guys are bad people. Yeah, we but no credit.
+
+[18:02] But uh next. Yes, yes. Uh we'll get we'll we'll get to we'll get we'll get we'll do another commercial break, come back with a full thank you. Anyway, uh so we got one in from at Clef's cooking issues. Any ideas on time and temperature for cooking cod sperm sacks low temp.
+
+[18:19] You gotta love a question like that. Cod sperm sacks at low temp. Any way to prevent coagulation of dairy. Also, second question, any way to prevent coagulation of dairy in a high acid system. So here's uh the thing.
+
+[18:30] Cod sperm, I would never say cod sperm when you're actually gonna serve it to someone. I mean, the term that we would use in food circles would be milt, like uncle milty, uh milt, cod milt. Uh I have not myself cooked cod milk. I've seen it many times. I think I've had it.
+
+[18:44] You've had the cod milk, right, Saz? Did you enjoy the cod milk? Yeah. Yeah. You had it, you had it where it uh Japanese style?
+
+[18:50] That yeah. And then with you at um what's that place in San Francisco? Where? Your friend. Which friend?
+
+[18:58] He does a lot of um over. Chris Cosantino? Yeah. We had milk there? Mm-hmm.
+
+[19:02] Uh, all right. So I guess yeah. Anyway, it's got like a texture similar to uh like a brains or something like that. But I have no idea how to cook it, uh how to cook at low temp. I mean, it's got such a delicate structure that I would worry about vacuuming it.
+
+[19:15] I would guess that it coagulates somewhere in the range of where uh an egg white would coagulate, so you'd probably want to cook it at like I don't know, 62, something like that Celsius. But I don't know. Because it you're supposed to steam it or fry it or something like that. It's supposed to be a delicate kind of puffy, uh puffy texture. What do you think, Pipes?
+
+[19:34] You think that's a good uh what did you do? You ever cooked the cod milk? No. I actually wasn't listening. No, it's like what the what the hell?
+
+[19:42] Well, well, Piper, it's because Piper's not uh trying to buy shoes on Zappos. Like somebody else we know Facebook who shall remain he's not on Facebook. He just clicked up. He's not on Facebook, Nestal. He's looking up oil prolimerization for me.
+
+[19:56] Anyway. So no, I do not have uh a good uh time or temperature on it, but I would assume uh it would be somewhere in that range, like 62. I don't never cooked uh I've never really done even low temp on my favorite kind of uh, you know, fish fish gonad part, which is uh roe. I've never done any really low temperature cooking on that, although I should, because I love shad row. Shad row is one of my favorite things to cook.
+
+[20:18] Uh you don't like the shadow, dude. Why do you not like the shadow? Something about isn't it gr like really grainy? Well, if you well, if you overcook it, it's grainy. Yeah, I had it when it was really grainy.
+
+[20:28] Who cooked it for? You're gonna you're gonna call it. No, I'm not gonna call. No? No.
+
+[20:32] All right, anyway. Uh but the second one, it just so happens uh at Cliffs that we have here Piper who uh his family is involved with uh uh CP Kelco, right? We have the man to tell you how to prevent uh the coagulation of high acid dairy systems. Piper with uh with some pectin, give me some pectin stabilization knowledge. Drop it on me.
+
+[20:55] Uh let's see. Um protein protection uh through what pectin Piper. What do you want by it? I'm still not listening. Alright, look.
+
+[21:06] The question was, Piper. Snap back. Okay. Finally. The question was uh how to do high acid dairy systems without coagulation.
+
+[21:13] And the answer I gave it to you just described which pectins is you like pectin to preserve high acid dairy systems. Pectin and uh CMC. That's carbo carboxy methyl cellulose for all of you who don't know what the hell CMC is and think it's a a a brand of truck. So he's using carboxymeth corite, is that true? Right?
+
+[21:35] Karboski muscle cellulose and where who b who makes that stuff? Actually CP Calco makes it. Yeah. Alright, can you buy that from Modernist Pantry? Uh I think you can.
+
+[21:44] From a Piper puts CMC in every freaking thing. Like he first of all, he's he's uh his body doesn't do so well with the gluten. So he he you know, use it for film forming and gluten-free bread. And also uh viscosity without having to deal with yield point like Xanthan. Yeah, yield point for those of you that have no idea what the hell we're talking about.
+
+[22:03] Yield point. So if you take Xanthan gum, it acts a little bit like a fluid gel. You sit it on a surface, you tilt it, and it acts like a gel until you put a certain amount of shear on it, at which point it automatically thins and turns to a liquid. That's called a yield point. So something with a yield point acts like that as opposed to something that is merely thick but will flow under all circumstances.
+
+[22:22] So two easy real-world examples uh that don't involve hydrocolloids that you can think of are like maple syrup, no matter how cold it is, it just flows but slowly. It doesn't have a yield point. Whereas uh ketchup, right? Ketchup does not flow until stuff uh until uh shear is applied to it and has a yield point and then it breaks. So that's that's what a yield point is.
+
+[22:45] So Piper's looking to uh strengthen something in a system without having a yield point, and he's using uh CMC and pectin, but you use a specific uh pectin, don't you? Uh there are a couple different types of pectin you can use. I like um let's see. Uh beta pectin, which is from beets. Right.
+
+[23:05] And what's the beta, what's the beta refer to for those of you that are out there in the in the pectin land? Yeah, kind of. I don't even know that. You know what? Like Piper worked at CP Kilco's like what were you, the research?
+
+[23:16] What are we? In the research labs? Yeah. Like busting stuff out? Yeah.
+
+[23:20] And so Piper will put pectin in just about any damn thing, and and CMC in just about any damn thing. So give him just give him a recipe, since you're not gonna tell them, just give them a freaking recipe. It's complicated. All right. Uh uh high concentration solution of beta pectin, like um like maybe five percent uh is mixed with you know uh the solution you want to acidify, and then it's continually mixed for like an hour or so, and then you slowly add your acid.
+
+[23:54] Um it depends. I mean, there's so many specifics. So you're saying it's incredibly difficult. It's incredibly without an accurate pH meter. I mean, you're gonna you're gonna just try and pour juice and like lemon juice into it?
+
+[24:05] Yeah. What's what's he trying to make? Well, I'm assuming he wants to do like you know, calpico water or something like that, or like some sort of like acidified dairy beverage. I'm assuming that's what he's trying to do. I would say make one high concentration solution of beta pectin or an HM pectin, and uh, and then add it in increments of like one percent total weight with uh with the dairy, and then slowly acidify, and you'll see that the flocculation point is going to it's gonna decrease pH wise.
+
+[24:41] All right. So Cles, there you have it. I wouldn't uh that's not so much a recipe you can take to the bank, but uh Piper will work on it, he'll get it out to you. By the way, I was looking up while Piper was talking, I was looking up Aaron's last name who who made the song. His last name is Robertson.
+
+[24:55] So Aaron Robertson, thank you for the fish is fish uh is vodka song. Uh really. Whoa. Wow. Abrupt end on the clap, guys.
+
+[25:07] Jesus. Killing me. Okay. Now, uh another interesting thing was brought up a couple weeks ago I didn't answer was uh a an oil polymerization technique uh that's made in Japan, another thing from Japan, called katameru tempuru, which I guess tempuru means like something like kind of like tempura, right? Tempura tempuru, I don't know how to speak Japanese.
+
+[25:24] Anyway, Karuna tempuru is a powder that you uh and I saw the video of it on on the on the internet. Amazing that what they want to do is you ever have like a liquid fat and you want to dispose of it and throw it in your trash, you can't because it's a liquid. So what you do is you add this powder to it and it instantly polymerizes, turns to a solid, which you then scrape out of the pan and you can throw in your regular waste trash. Now, um that's crazy. They I don't know how the hell it works.
+
+[25:51] It says it's some sort of algal thing, some sort of algal seaweed uh like nonsense. But I was like, nowhere was I able to find what's actually in it, what is actually doing it. And it's clearly some sort of I mean it's probably clearly, not clearly, I guess, some sort of polymerization where the oil is being uh linked. I doubt they're they're like instantly hydrogenating it because I don't know of any way to do that, because it's not a system where they're adding heat. They're literally just adding a powder to the oil and it's turning to a solid, which is nutty.
+
+[26:22] I don't know how the hell it works. Someone out there, please, if you know what this reaction is uh and what's causing it. Because remember, there's ways to do it in like that I found that are very, very non-food grade. But the question is how do you do it in a in a in a food grade way such that you're not doing something crazy to your pen? Like, are they somehow some sort of instance of ponification reaction where they're turning into a soap?
+
+[26:41] I have no idea. Someone please tell me. The only way I know how to solidify a fat like that, hardcore solidify it, is to add large amounts, like upwards of 10% by weight of mono and diglycerides. When that like so you could take a liquid fat, add 10% uh mono and diglycerides to it, uh, and you know, heat it a little bit, and then when it cools, it will thicken and turn to a pay, you know, a solid, and you can scrape it out. Um, and that's that's the only way that I, you know, that I've done it uh, you know, in the kitchen before, but I don't I don't really I don't know.
+
+[27:12] Anyway, so we're looking that up. Uh and we'll take a second break and we'll come right back with cooking issues. You're listening to weaving by Dead Stars on Heritage Radio Network.org. Have we lost our control? I don't know what I should do.
+
+[27:56] Waiting up when you know, I hope that we get this. Like what you hear so far? Support the network and become a member. Membership helps us bring you the best food radio in the world and gives you access to thousands of dollars in discounts at the sustainably minded businesses that support us. To become a member, visit Heritage Radio Network.org today.
+
+[28:47] And we're back. Okay, back on the bread. I was thinking about this for a second. Uh I read an interesting uh a couple of interesting articles. They don't actually relate to the question about oven spring, but uh I thought they were kind of interesting.
+
+[28:56] One is that uh these nut jobs are trying to figure out a way to uh determine how their bread is going to react uh to baking, and instead of doing the obvious thing for us, which would be to bake it, uh they uh put it in a vacuum chamber. And these guys uh by putting in a vacuum chamber, they expand all the air cells that are uh the air bubbles that are already in the dough, and they claim that at any point in the bread making process after the initial uh kind of mixing and the air air incorporation has happened, that they can get good correlations to the final bake volume just by putting the sucker in a vacuum and seeing how high it can uh it can raise up. There's another interesting picture on vacuum mixing in the in the bread science book that I told you about that's available in the checklist online, where she reproduces a picture of a bread that was mixed under a vacuum. It had the craziest pore structure. It was considered a bad pore structure, but I thought very interesting.
+
+[29:53] Like now I'm spending all morning thinking about uh like you know various uh, you know, ways to put vacuums on on bread. But the other really interesting thing is uh is an article I read about the temperatures at which the uh temperatures at which the the bread and this relates back to oven spring is setting and so the the point is is that the protein structure in a good bread uh in a in a good well-made dough the protein structure is going to hold the gas bubble integrity up to a point of about 60 degrees Celsius where a crappy bread dough is going to hold its structure up to a point of about 50 degrees Celsius. And so and the the key difference there is that that's right around the temperature that the starch gelatinization is taking place. So the protein is really only there to hold the structure of the bread uh while you're waiting for the starch to gelatinize and set. And that's why and you know and I think we've discussed about it a couple times uh in the past you know when you're working on a gluten-free bread like a lot like a lot of the problem is just getting it to react properly to the initial bakeout.
+
+[31:02] So it's the initial bakeout uh uh of it that's hard because you're getting the proteins they have to hold there until the interior of the bread uh gets up to you know 50 or or 60. And that's you know that's why when we're doing experiments we'll experiment with you know uh things that have weird kind of pre-gelling characteristics like like you'll add something to hold structure like a xanthan or like a CMC and then you'll add something to uh actually gel in that mid-range temperature where there's other things are going to start to fail like a uh methyl cellulose uh or some other sort of heat gelling uh uh property. Because the idea is is that it's not that the protein is important, I don't think it's important, but it's not you know majorly important to the final texture of the bread. I think the major, the major impact from the final temperature on the bread is going to be the starches and how they gelatinize. However, the major impact to the formation of that final structure is going to be how the protein works.
+
+[31:56] And so that's the really dig diggity dig that you get when you're trying to formulate a uh a bread without protein, wouldn't without without gluten proteins. Wouldn't you say that's yeah. Yeah. Now now Piper's learned to do the nostalgia and just say just say yes. Okay.
+
+[32:12] Uh Joshua wrote in last week, we didn't get to get to it, um, on beer. I hope this uh is still the correct email, and it is, even though we didn't answer it last week. Obviously, Nastasha got the email. Um a few questions. I'm an all-grain brewer, because I didn't answer this last week, did I, Sas?
+
+[32:26] Uh I'm an all-grain brewer and I have access to grains, hops, good brewing equipment, uh, wort, exact, etc. Which I like for some reason I don't know. They wort, I call it wort, but I was told that brewers call it wort. Okay. No, you don't care, you don't do a crap.
+
+[32:38] Okay. Uh are there some interesting things I can do with these base ingredients beyond beer or uh or the equipment used for it beyond low temperature cooking. Um that's interesting. I know I I love uh I've been trying to use mashing techniques and uh use the the amylase that so you what when you're when you're doing mashing, when you're doing an all-grain mash, what what you're you're using barley, uh you malt typically malted barley. When you're malting the barley, you're uh just uh allowing a little bit of the uh grain to grow, you're allowing it to germinate a little bit, and then you're stopping that uh while the enzymes are in there that will convert the starch uh in the barley, eventually convert the starch into sugars so that the growing embryo can um can use them.
+
+[33:22] You kill that such that the enzymes haven't been destroyed, but that the embryo isn't using all of that stuff, it isn't wasting any of the starch because you want to convert all that starch using the enzymes to sugar. So uh I've been uh not with much success, but trying to experiment using um using the enzymes in that to add other starches to do cooking related uh things. So uh to break down um potatoes, for instance, or break down even further sweet potatoes using a mixture of uh amylases from from grains. But I haven't had any sort of luck uh, you know, that I haven't had any sort of luck that makes me want to think that uh that's what I want to do for the next you know you know ten years. I'm having much more luck with um not with grain-based uh ferments doing interesting things, but uh Harold McGee has been turning me on to some really interesting uh rice-based fermentations, not Japanese, not koji-based, but you know, other weird uh symbiotic uh like mixtures of bacteria and uh fungal and uh yeast elements.
+
+[34:24] And uh I forget the name of it is, but these have these weird little they're called yeast balls that are from China that McGee kind of turned me on to that make this amazing fermented uh rice gruel that tastes unlike anything uh ever. So I've had more luck using that in culinary uh in culinary applications, but I haven't really had done much with beer. Now, malt is delicious, and malt, I think, uh, especially even the even the dried stuff that you can uh buy or the extract is an underused ingredient from a culinary standpoint. It's delicious. Uh, you know, malted mashed potatoes, you know, not malt like you know, baker's malt or like malt, like you make milkshakes with, but like large amounts of you know, uh brewer's malt, but uh malt powder, um, you know, DME dry malt extract, which you don't use because you're all grain, um, is a awesome uh addition, uh flavoring addition to to to many things that I use.
+
+[35:13] Two. I have a fair bit of beer. What are some interesting things I can do to play with beer for sweet or savory applications? I've been thinking about foams with methacyl F50 and I've used it in cheese preparations with sodium citrate. Um look, Methacel F50 beer applications are kind of one of the classic applications uh of Methell F50.
+
+[35:30] I mean, I think one of the first the in fact the first application I saw, Methell F50 is a hydrocolloid derived from cellulose uh that has very good whipping properties. And it's used uh mainly by chefs to make very dense, like kind of shaving creamy uh consistency foams because it makes a very fine celled foam as opposed to something almost uh akin to an egg white, uh as opposed to kind of the light airy foams that are produced by uh things like um uh by things like less than um you know VersaWhip is another foaming agent, but I I tend to think that Methacel F50 makes kind of a finer, kind of more egg-whitey uh foam than Versawhip usually does, although VersaWhip is also good for certain applications. Anyway, uh Methacel F50 also does something VersawWhip can't do, which is if you make a uh if you make a m like a like a whipped egg white texture thing with methylcel F50, a foam, you can pipe it uh onto a uh tray, throw it in a dehydrate or at 135 Fahrenheit for a couple of hours, then turn it down to hold it, and it'll make a crunchy, like uh crunchy meringue uh crispy thing with no protein in it. That's amazing. Now, the first application I saw of it was methacyl F50 was in fact beer, it was Sam Mason, uh who I don't know when his ice cream company is starting up again.
+
+[36:41] You know, did anyone know? Anyone, anyone? Uh it's gonna be delicious, I'm sure. Anyway, uh, was he was doing uh back at WD50 when he was a pastry chef at WD50, was making uh Guinness foam with Methylcel F50. And as I remember, I tasted it and my feelings was it will it was delicious.
+
+[36:57] Um obviously cooking with beer, uh is good. I've been using it a lot in in cocktail preparations, of course, that's nothing new. So I guess I don't have anything really new. I like this cheese application with sodium citrate, so I'm assuming you're making like processed cheese with beer. You think that would I mean or you'd have to add some sort of case you'd have to add some sort of like uh uh casein, extra casein to it.
+
+[37:17] You buy I did some work with um a product called rennet casein, and rennet casein is uh is casein that's been produced f from the process uh like where you actually rented it, and then you break it down, powder it, and you can reuse that to make cheese analogs. Uh and so I've done some initial experiments with uh rennet casein, but I'm sure that as long as you get the pH right with the with the beer that you can make a pretty interesting kind of beer cheese. In other words, it I I would be most interested in something not that had the flavor of cheese, but had the meltability of cheese, but tasted like beer. And I think that would be eminently possible with uh beer, rennet casein, and the right emulsifying salts. So I wouldn't just use citrate, you'd use a uh Dave, you have a call.
+
+[38:00] And let's keep it to one question. It's not a personal stuff. Wait, you're telling me it's not a personal friend call, the lady who's buying shoes on the internet. All right, caller, you're on the air. And caller, you have one.
+
+[38:13] Hi, uh Dave and Nastasha and friends. Uh this is Brian in San Francisco. Excuse me, I have a cold. Um but uh two questions. First is um lecithin.
+
+[38:25] Uh what's I I found in my natural food store the soy lecithin, which looks kind of like bee pollen. It's uh kind of crumbles. Right. And then but I've seen some recipes that want liquids, so what's the difference? Yeah, and I guess the first they call soy left lecithin.
+
+[38:42] Yeah, almost all the lecithin that you buy in uh in is from soy, and it's not that that's the only lecithin that's out there, it's just a byproduct of manufacturing all the other soy products. They have soy lecithin. I've never used liquid lecithithin. Do you ever use liquid piper? Yeah.
+
+[38:59] Did you like it? I mean it's like I hate the granules. Well, the granules are better. Look, granules are obviously the worst. The powder is pretty good.
+
+[39:06] You can buy a powdered one, and uh the the problem with the granules is first of all, I think they they tend to accentuate the off flavor that you can get from lecithin if you use it too much, and also they're hard to get what'd you say? You still there? They they they they're hard to get into the uh they're hard to get into solution sometimes, the granules, and uh the whereas the powder is like you know, easier. But the liquid, I mean, assuming if you can buy the liquid, if you can tolerate having uh extra extra, you know, liquid, I'm sure it's not sure it's oil based, right? Uh but if you could have it uh, you know, because lecithin would rather be in oil than in water.
+
+[39:42] You whenever you're talking about an emulsifier, you have to look at what's called the the hydrophobic uh lipo lip uh the hydrophilic lipophilic balance where you're looking at is it an oil loving emulsifier, is it a water loving emulsifier? And the big mistake most people make with uh lecithin is although it's kind of somewhere near the middle, it's not extreme on either side, lecithin is an oil loving uh emulsifier. So if it's coming as a liquid, it's almost certainly coming in an oil based uh liquid. Now I if I've never used liquid lecithin, but I would guess it's a lot easier to use because the the the pain in the butt about lecithin is gonna make it sure it's uh in the liquid properly. Right?
+
+[40:18] Wouldn't you agree? Yes. Yeah. I don't know. We I think we lost a caller because that we have some sort of like weird feedback loop going on here.
+
+[40:25] But back to cheese for one second. Uh the book that you guys want to get, and I think I've mentioned it on the on the uh show here before is Processed Cheese and Analogs by Adnan Tamimi. And uh that's gonna have all the recipes you need, and you can you can look at a good bunch of it on Google Books and see uh see what's going on. Finally, on the way out, we have a question. Well, okay, one more thing on cheese.
+
+[40:47] Uh, can sodium hexametophosphate be used as a replacement for sodium citrates and recipes as well as for sequestering calcium? If yes, is there a standard scaling amount for the amount used? I'm thinking specifically about a modernist mac and cheese recipe. Sodium hexametophosphate is not a single thing, it's a group of polyphosphate salts, uh, and it's a monster uh at sequestering calcium. Uh it's not a straight replacement for sodium citrate because they they have kind of different functions uh in a mac and cheese.
+
+[41:14] They they they function uh they function differently. Usually when you're making a cheese based uh thing, you need to add uh not just one uh emulsifying salt, but two or three. You're you and uh the function you need depends a lot on the pH of your system. So certain of the salts uh are more basic than others, and so you need to add them to get your pH in in the right level, and also they tend to have different textures depending on which one you use. And unfortunately, it's not a straightforward thing, it's kind of a little bit of a dark art, and so it requires a lot of experimentation.
+
+[41:47] A lot of it is still just people like testing recipes and keeping logbooks of what they do, but uh sodium hexametaphosphate and sodium citrate together, uh you should be able to get a lot of things under your belt having those two uh ingredients on hand when you're doing cheeses. Finally, can I explain my home seltzer system? Yes, here's what you do to make the if if you have the money and the time and uh and but now, but you don't want to spend money or time later. What you do is you get an under-the-counter ice machine, and then you drill a hole in the side of the undercounter ice machine. This is not this is what I kind of have at home.
+
+[42:14] What I have at home is a slightly more ghetto version of this. But you you take an ice machine, you drill holes in it, right? You buy a cold plate. Go to uh go to Mark Powers, they're in Guntersville, Alabama, cheapest. Get a cold plate, two circuits.
+
+[42:30] One circuit of a cold plate is not enough to get your seltzer cold enough for what you want to do here, right? So, what a cold plate is is it's a big stainless steel coil that's embedded in an aluminum block, and you keep that underneath uh ice, right? Now, one chain of a cold chain is not going to drop the temperature enough. So, what you do is you put the in you oh oh I forgot. You have to buy a carbonator.
+
+[42:49] A carbonator is a giant tank that holds water at room temperature with a pump, the same kind of pump, it's a rotary vein pump made by ProCon usually, and it's the same pump that you use in an espresso machine, and that's hooked up to your water supply. So you get you put your water supply straight out of your sink in through a filter. You put that uh goes through a filter, once it goes through the filter, it gets hooked onto the pump on your carbonator, right? You then get a 20-pound CO2 tank, you want to run it about 95, 96, 98 PSI, somewhere in there, into the tank. Now, your water mains are don't have enough pressure to inject water into a system that has that high of uh that high of a pressure.
+
+[43:25] So the pro-con pump overcomes that pressure and shoots the water, sprays it into the uh tank. That spraying makes such a fine surface area that the water is instantly carbonated. Now, uh you need to have it at 98 to uh 90 90 to 100 psi because you're doing it at room temperature, so that's under extreme pressure. It comes out of that, goes through two circuits of your cold plate, right? Two circuits of it, and it's underneath your ice machine.
+
+[43:49] So now you have constant ice supply and you have constant cold seltzer. When it comes out, the next biggest mistake people make is they use a crappy picnic tap like you would use for beer. They're worthless, useless. You need to get what's called a Becker squeeze valve. You can also get Becker, B-E-K, B E C B E C K E R.
+
+[44:07] Becker makes the best seltzer valves, no question, because it has a giant compensator in the back of it that allows you to make the transition from the high pressure region uh where the seltzer is to the low pressure atmospheric region, and they're and they're just they're they're free, it's freaking awesome. That's the system. So that's the system I have at 54 Eldritch. At home, the problem was I couldn't fit an undercounter ice machine uh in where I wanted to put it because uh it would have required too much uh ventilation problem. I just couldn't do it.
+
+[44:33] Plus, with all the tubes coming down from my espresso machine, because my espresso and my seltzer rig are together right where all my filtered water crap is. So I have to go through the awful, well, it's not awful. I built an insulated uh box like out of wood and uh spray foam and blue and blue foam uh with a condensation pump, right? You need a condensation pump with a condensation pump, and so now uh my freezer, which is across the aisle in my kitchen, I pull the ice out of it every day from the ice maker, dump it into my insulated box into the cold plate, and then that's how I get my cold seltzer. Uh and so that's my cold seltzer rig at home.
+
+[45:08] It's awesome. The one with the automatic ice machine is even better. Now that I have a seven-year-old that I can boss around, he actually does the ice, so it's just like having a manual ice machine, you know, a regular ice machine for me. But that's how I recommend doing it. It's the balls.
+
+[45:19] I never run out of seltzer. Cooking issues. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage Underscore Radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org.
+
+[45:58] Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by 360 Cookware, American made green manufactured cookware using vapor technology. For more information, visit 360cookware.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit HeritageRadio Network.org for thousands more. Cooking issues.
+
+[1:02] Alright! Tuesday, Tuesday, Tuesday, live at Cooking Issues on the Heritage Radio Network in the back of Roberta's Pizza Ryan Bushwick, Brooklyn! Calling all your questions live to 718497-2128. That's 718497 2128. Hey Jack, what do you think about that intro?
+
+[1:20] Sorry, it really got you jazzed up, huh? Yeah, yeah, yeah. We gotta what's awesome is how different the two songs are. We gotta like swap them back and forth. Well, see, I'm thinking the first one, the kind of interpolation, we can use that on the break.
+
+[1:30] It's kind of a jazzier, calmer break song. Think so? Yes. Yeah, I think so. Do you think I blasted out the view meter over there?
+
+[1:37] Am I okay with the intro? You did. We went red. Went red. That's my next band.
+
+[1:43] That was Joel Gargano, right? Yes, it was. Yeah, alright. I probably mispronounced his name, like I mispronounced everyone's name. If I didn't have my own name, I'd mispronounce my name, right, Stas?
+
+[1:50] You have two first names. I do have two first names, although I tend to forget it since my last name's been my last name since as long as I can remember. Joined as usual with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, but also today her sister, the Mini Hammer. She she's who uh just recently started attending uh the Yale University, my old alma mater. She didn't take a mic, she said, I don't know, she's like takes so it's a it's a sister thing.
+
+[2:11] They're both sitting here on computers, crazy, crazy. And Jack and Joe in the engineering room. Hey. How do you do? Call your questions live to 7184972128.
+
+[2:19] That's 718497 2128. It is the Thanksgiving edition of uh Cooking Issues. And uh Stas, what are you doing for the Thanksgiving? Uh bunch of people coming over. Yeah, I don't think how many.
+
+[2:29] I don't know, six, seven. And uh what kind of wine are they gonna bring? No, that those people aren't coming. That's Saturday. That's the second time.
+
+[2:36] All right, so who's coming for who's coming for the for the real Thanksgiving? A bunch of people that don't have families. Okay, here's the thing. If you want to get invited to uh Nastasha's uh apartment for the Thanksgiving or for any event, just uh guarantee that you will A be late uh and B, uh if you were going to bring something, make sure that you get Nastasha to buy all the ingredients and you cook it by messing up her kitchen, and or bring any one point five liter five dollar bottle of wine. Right?
+
+[2:59] Isn't that what it what it takes to qualify to be one of your friends? They've started bringing water. No way. Like I don't think Poland Spring? They're like, I don't feel like drinking tonight, so I brought water, and then they drink.
+
+[3:12] Who cares what they feel like doing? Yeah, exactly. I want to drink. People, people. I assume that anyone listening to this program uh is a cook or likes to cook anyway, and has some sense of what it means to be a a a proper host.
+
+[3:26] Like for me, uh the worst thing that could ever happen to me, much worse than like uh accidentally like having the building uh fall down and me being naked in front of a bunch of people. Which is horrible, but like like much worse than that, or or worse even than I don't know, I can't I'm trying to imagine something worse. Uh but like running out of food at a dinner party. I would rather die than run out of food. I mean it's like the worst thing.
+
+[3:46] You know what I mean? I was raised at like then that just means that you're low quality as a person. You know what I mean? It's not that they ate too much, it's that you're puny and weak. Right?
+
+[3:54] Uh so, anyways, and as a guest, showing up empty-handed, the only thing worse than showing up empty-handed would be showing up with a bottle of water. Right. Like, if you don't want to drink, and you're going to someone's house, if you're not a drinker, fine, bring a dessert. Bring a cake. Yeah.
+
+[4:10] Cheese. Cheese. Yeah, if you're gluten intolerant, bring cheese. If you're lactose intolerant, bring a cake. If you're both, I have to think harder.
+
+[4:16] You know what I mean? But but bring something for Christ's sakes. Bring a gift. Bring jewelry, bring bring a book, bring anything. Show up empty-handed, show up with water.
+
+[4:23] Just say I don't want to come. If you don't want to go to the person's house, right? If it's too much of an investment to spend, you know, 15, 20 bucks a wall uh bottle, you know, on a bottle of good wine, then just don't go. Just say no. Oh, I enjoy your company, but I want to just bring some water.
+
+[4:39] Hey, crap on you. Then stay and clean the whole god dang thing. People. Where do people come from? I don't know.
+
+[4:46] What the hell is wrong with people? Happy Thanksgiving. Uh okay. We got this question in from uh Alex in Florida about bitters. Uh dear Jack, Dave and Nastasha 2.
+
+[4:56] Uh I've been uh curious recently about making my own bitters. At the bar, do you use a traditional Angostura slash Paisho's, or do you have a recipe of your own? I want something that would make a brandy old fashioned really pop and maybe another interesting flavor while I'm concocting. What's the ideal proof to start with? And how long do you age for ideal flavor extraction?
+
+[5:13] Extraction, and would an ISI whipper be able to speed up the process or just throw the flavors off balance? Thanks and help for your show, Alex from Florida. Alright, well, look, uh, no, we do not make our own uh bitters uh at at the bar. Uh we use Angostures and Paisho's just a little note to you. I detest Pesho's bitters.
+
+[5:29] I think they taste like cough syrup. I will tolerate them in traditional drinks like Sazerac, but uh I just I'm not I'm not a fan. In fact, uh at the bar, we didn't serve it to customers because it's uh it's uh illegal, but I prefer to use actual Robotussin uh to mix with uh so we were doing like we were doing Sazerak Sesurp uh drinks that we were calling uh we call we call them RoboSack, actually was the thing. And then when we flamed it with the red hot poker uh in an homage to the Simpsons, we were calling it uh the flaming Mozarak. But uh anyways, uh so not a huge Pesho's fan.
+
+[6:02] Uh but if you want to make your own bitters, first of all, I uh I recommend that to get a ballpark of what you're doing, go out and purchase uh bitters, a spirited history of a classic cure all with cocktails, recipes, uh, and formulas uh by Brad Thomas Parsons. Um go ahead and read that. That's the book on uh bitters. Uh he actually comes to the bar, he's a nice guy. Uh good book.
+
+[6:22] And uh, you know, don't I I couldn't look at my copy because I have it at the bar for our bartenders to use as a reference. I couldn't look at my copy this morning, but uh go take a look at that one. Most of his recipes uh are a little bit low on proof. Uh Angostura, when it's finished, uh starts at 45. Uh I mean, is it 45 uh percent alcohol by volume if that gives you kind of a uh a ballpark?
+
+[6:42] Um the higher alcohol you anything that you do when you're making a bitters is gonna change it. It's not gonna make it necessarily better or worse, but it's gonna change it. So um Brad usually does a two-part extraction, right? Where he'll do an initial extraction into pure ethanol uh and then not pure, sorry, sorry, into like liquor, like a hundred, hundred, hundred and 100-101 some of the some medium-proof bourbon or spirit. Then he will take the solids out of it, then re-steep those solids in water uh at a high temperature boiling.
+
+[7:12] So if he'll do a room temperature uh uh infusion into liquor for a week, two weeks, a couple days, whatever it depends on the product. Then take the solids out, boil them with water, reduce that, add that back to the alcohols to do a two-part infusion. If you do ISI, it's gonna change it. Some people on the internet use very high proof alcohol and extract for less amount of time, and none of these things is gonna make anything better or worse. If you're using an ISI bottle, which is a technique I developed a little while ago for infusing very rapidly, that's going to change the infusion.
+
+[7:40] What it's going to do is uh anytime you do a rapid infusion technique at low temperature like ISI or any form of pressure, it's gonna typically extract volatile notes more than it's gonna extract the deeper, baser, uh more bitter notes. So if you're gonna do a coffee infusion with ISI rapidly, it's gonna extract more of the coffee aroma and less of the inherent bitterness. Uh very long-term extractions in high proof ethanol are gonna extract a lot of the stuff, including all of the bitters. So it all depends on how you want to extract it, which flavors you want uh to pull out. You know, if you extract at a lower proof, the flavor balance will be different if you extract for the same amount of length uh time at a higher proof or longer, uh shorter at a higher proof.
+
+[8:16] So the short answer is there's no answer. Uh one thing I will say is a lot of people where they really mess up is they change the amount of liquor uh to that they use to the product, or they use low quality or impotent uh product. So if you're gonna sourcing a really crappy uh gentian uh, for example, or really crappy or old spice, you're never gonna get the same amount of flavor, even if you ramp up the quantity, uh than you would if you did uh if you got a higher quality product or a fresher product. Similarly, if you were to just say, listen, I want to do it faster, so I'm gonna add twice as much gention, let's say, to something. Uh or if you're at doing, I don't know, gin or something, or a root or something.
+
+[8:54] If you're gonna add twice as much, right? Uh that doesn't make it twice as strong or the same amount of strength in half the time, it changes the flavor. But again, it doesn't make it any better or any worse. But as a ballpark for a more traditional bitters kind of a flavor, go look at uh go look at that book, uh bitters, and then if you want to try something that's uh maybe less on the deep notes but has a lot of more of the aromatic notes, and you want to do something quickly, try doing the ISI infusion. When you're starting, do individual infusions of the flavors to see how they mix so that you can mix them, then see whether or not if you combine them at the same time, you get the same extraction, a similar extraction.
+
+[9:28] Because you probably won't. Adding different spices is going to change the overall concentration relative to the uh liquid and the alcohol present, might change the flavors of the way they melt. It's a very complicated uh kind of a thing, and so you have to practice. But once, but make sure when you're doing it that you keep extremely accurate, copious records of exactly what you did so that you can reproduce it. The worst thing in the world is to come up with something that's delicious and then you can't reproduce it.
+
+[9:49] I hate that. Hate it. Absolutely hate it. Um I had one more note, but I forget what it is. I don't know.
+
+[9:54] Couldn't have been I mean, it probably was extremely important. It was probably the most important thing that I was gonna say. Like the rest of it's just fluff compared to the one thing I was about to say, but it's it's gone. It's out of my head. It's it's it's history.
+
+[10:04] Sorry about that. Anyway, uh okay. Um moving on. Red writes in cooking low temperature pork shakes have been giving me some issues. I've done them twice now with the same results.
+
+[10:16] Funk, not funk in a good way. See, funk, like a long, long time ago, funk just meant kind of like smelly, like behind smelly, smelly stuff like funk. That's a nasty funk. And then funk became kind of a good thing, kind of like James Brown funk, and now I think funk is bad to be back to being a bad thing. At least when it's cooking, funk is bad, right?
+
+[10:32] You pro funk or anti funk? Anti? Anti, yeah, okay. Uh funk. Uh the first time, although there's a town in Nebraska called funk.
+
+[10:39] Did you know that? Funk, Nebraska. There's a university, the university of Funk. Can you imagine? Yeah, I mean, like, I don't understand why everyone in the world, if I had known about it when I was applying to school, I was saying crap on Yale, I'd be going to the University of Funk.
+
+[10:51] But anyway, uh the first time uh my funky, my funky funky shanks were cooked with an Asian style marinade. No dip at 85 degrees, uh, no dip at 85 degrees Celsius, meaning dipping them first at 85 degrees Celsius to kill the bacteria on the outside. So there's no dip, and they went into a water bath at 60 degrees Celsius for approximately 48 hours. The second time was with no marinade and a three-minute dip at 85 degrees Celsius into a bath at 60 degrees Celsius for about 48 hours. All the pork shanks were cooked with uh the full skin on.
+
+[11:21] Uh note interesting though, uh change red changed two different variables, right? Changed the marinade and the dip. So we don't what we don't have is we don't have marinade plus dip, whether or not that equals funk, right? Okay. Anyway, uh all the pork shanks, and we also, I don't know for, for instance, whether or not both had the exact same kind of funk, because there's there's various kinds of funk.
+
+[11:42] There's kind of bacterial funk, which usually gives kind of a cheesy, almost sauerkrauty or blue cheese or definite off note that's usually caused by uh lactobacillus that are growing in your bag, either due to uh not heating it up fast enough, having some contamination. Well, that's what it's due to having some contamination, not heating it up fast enough to kill them before they can produce their nasty aromas. Uh but secondly, certain meats can have a certain kind of funk. So for instance, dry age meats have a certain kind of funk. And also, if you've ever made, if any of you ever out there have ever made a pure pork stock, Stas, you ever made a pure pork stock, like without a lot of browning flavors in it, without a lot of everything.
+
+[12:15] If you just like cooks like straight like pork with like no skimming of the stock beforehand, all the bones, sometimes you get like that weird kind of I don't know how to describe it, porky aroma. Anyone in the studio know what the heck I'm talking about? Yeah, I've had enough pork. Yeah, but you know what I'm talking about? Like that pork uncovered by any sort of Mayard flavor and also kind of without any flashing off of the volatiles and kind of nowhere moving, can have this kind of like porky, skinny, kind of like you know when you when you make a very strong gelatin solution, you get some of that kind of like weird that aroma.
+
+[12:45] So I don't know whether that's what you're describing as funk, in which case that one that's a separate issue. But we're gonna assume on bacteria is what we're dealing with. Anyway, all the pork shanks were cooked with the full skin on. My question is what is causing the funk? I would have thought that the 85 degrees C, uh, which is very high in Fahrenheit, land-free Fahrenheit folk, uh, dip for three minutes would have taken care of any surface issues.
+
+[13:03] Do I need to skin them? And is the temperature just too low? Uh, I've also cooked some at 85 degrees Celsius for 12 hours with no issues except being overcooked for my taste. Think of trying 75 degrees C for approximately 12 hours the next time. I've had great success with lamb shanks at 62 degrees for 48 hours.
+
+[13:19] So I'd appreciate any insights you might have on this. Uh P.S., my wife and I will be taking uh trek trekking off to the European Union a week after Thanksgiving, and we'll be in New York on the 28th and 29th before we leave. Our plans are to stop by and have lunch at Sombar and then at Booker and Dax for uh lunch and cocktails. We also have reservations for WD-50 that evening. Red.
+
+[13:38] Listen, Red. Um Booker and Dax does not open till six. Does not open till six. I'm sure Wiley will let you come get a cocktail at Booker and Dax at six before you go off to WD-50, or after you go to WD-50, uh come by Booker and Dax and have some cocktails. Uh, but we don't open uh the bar until six.
+
+[13:59] I will also say this, not to like shortchange your ability to come to my bar and have drinks, but WD-50 also has an extremely interesting bar program, and I really am a big fan of their cocktails. And it is my feeling that in general, restaurants don't get enough play for their uh bar programs. For some reason, uh cocktail writers tend to overlook restaurants when they uh look at their cocktails, when they look at interesting cocktails, they tend to focus solely on standalone bars. And uh it's stupid, it's dumb because restaurants uh have uh what's interesting about restaurants is they typically have a large uh back of house system, and often in really good restaurants, chefs and bartenders will uh talk to each other and communicate, and uh the bartender will have access to some interesting ingredients from the back of the house that they wouldn't ordinarily have at a normal bar. So check out the uh cocktails when you're at the WD-50.
+
+[14:47] Okay, back to your funky question. Um I don't know, uh it'll be interesting to see if you did the marinade because as you'll see later if I get to it, uh uh some marinades have uh antibacterial effects. I'm assuming that's what's causing it is not just kind of the natural inherent porkiness that that you're talking about. I'm assuming what's causing it is a bacteria, and the only explanation I could have is that your bags got crowded, and that even with the C with the high C dip, you may be it's a high C, you know what I mean? High high temperature dip, uh, that there were parts of the bag that got bacterially contaminated, whether it was from getting stabbed with a knife, whether it was from bags being packed closely together, or if you had multiple portions with sauce in them inside of a single bag, and then that part couldn't be penetrated by the by the hot water when you were doing your dip.
+
+[15:29] Um, one of those things must be the cause, because that's the only time I've ever had uh funkiness happen. And at 60 degrees Celsius, you should not have any sort of uh funkiness. Now, definitely 75 degrees C, if there's a bacterial problem, the penetration is going to be fast enough to kill anything and stop the uh stop it from going going south on you. But I would think that 60 degrees Celsius is also hot enough to have that happen, unless they were really tightly packed. In which case I would really make sure that your packs are very, very far separated in your bath to make sure that you're getting adequate uh circulation around it, because usually it's lack of circulation in the bath that's the problem, or a very large uh large, large thing that's the problem.
+
+[16:06] On this, by the way, I have to say a little bit how I'm gonna cook my uh my turkey this year. How are you cooking your turkey styles? I don't know yet. It's like your what does your mom do? Just throws it in an oven at like one degree.
+
+[16:16] What's your what's the technique from your at your house? She wakes up at six and puts the turkey in for eight hours. Yeah? Turkey jerky? How is it?
+
+[16:24] How's your mom's turkey? How's the turkey nutty? Don't worry, she's not gonna listen. How is it? It's alright.
+
+[16:28] It's alright. That's the that's the thing, alright? Yeah? Yeah. You slather that sucker in gravy if it happens, right?
+
+[16:36] Right? Is that what goes on? Jack, Jack and Joe, how about you guys still over there? What what are your turkeys like? Uh my mom's process is pretty similar to Nastasia's.
+
+[16:45] Yeah? So good for sandwiches, but not so good on day one. Yeah. Lots of gravy is necessary. Yeah?
+
+[16:51] Yeah. Alright, well, listen. Normally, for the past several years, I think what are three years we've been doing this, Doz. I've been doing my like uh bionic turkey, where you completely bone a turkey inside out. Uh then you make a like an aluminum uh hollow uh uh pseudoskeleton, and then you pump hot oil and butter through the pseudoskeleton after you've brined it, that you puff the turkey up with uh an artificial uh aluminum foil kind of carcass, and then you pump hot butter through it to cook it from the inside out and then finish it in butter and then do a flash fry on the outside to crisp up the skin.
+
+[17:21] And if I do say so myself, it's a delicious, uh delicious turkey. It's a good it's a delicious bird. Hey, oh but uh so here's the thing though. Like uh my stepfather, uh, although the only things he likes are wine and fishing and cigars, and I guess third, like my family. Uh the uh like the or fourth, whatever it is.
+
+[17:42] I think we're I think we make it to fourth. Like there. And the dogs are maybe just below or just above us or below me. Anyway, uh, so he hates anything that's uh a big uh a big mishigash. You know what I mean?
+
+[17:53] He's like or a big Gembota, as he says. So uh, you know, I fried my first turkey at my mom's house, and like a little oil spilled on the lawn and killed a patch of grass, which no one has walked on in 22 years. And yet I heard about it. Dave, you destroyed the lawn. Oh, he went to his bedroom and fell asleep.
+
+[18:10] I ruined it all of Thanksgiving. All of it, totally ruined. And then next year, my mom's like, hey Dave, or two years because I alternate with my in-laws, right? And they hey Dave, fry the turkey again. But didn't tell Gerard, my stepfather.
+
+[18:20] I was like, have you told Gerard that we're gonna fry the turkey again? She's like, Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. No problem, no problem. So she doesn't talk like that. She's uh she's a world-renowned doctor.
+
+[18:26] Anyway, uh so we um we uh I bring it. Gerard doesn't know we're gonna fry the turkey, also a world-renowned doctor, doesn't know we're gonna fry the uh the turkey again, immediately, even before we start cooking, goes upstairs and falls asleep. I didn't want to kill the grass, so I did it on the flagstone, and I got oil on the flagstone, and so he went out and it was one of those sub-freezing Thanksgivings, you know, back before global warming. And he starts uh and he starts hosing down the deck, which starts freezing over to try and get the thing off. So it did two Thanksgiving's ruined.
+
+[18:54] So I am not bringing the robo turkey. Last year I brought the robo turkey, I cooked it at my house and brought a pre-cooked robo turkey to the to the house. But you know what? This one I'm just gonna say crap on it. I'm not gonna do it.
+
+[19:06] But here's my technique that I'm gonna try to do that you guys can maybe do for the fast turkey. Ready for this? Ready for this? It's a variant on what I used to do back in the old days. The way I would cook a turkey is I would bone the whole turkey out, completely bone it, like you would a chicken.
+
+[19:20] You can look at Jackie, Jackie Peeps, that's French for Jacques Popin. Jackie Peeps has a recipe for it in chicken. So I would roll the whole um, you know, bone it, stuff it with uh stuffing, tie it back together as a roll, and cook it really quickly. It cooks very, very quickly, right? Now remember, you don't want to start store stuffing in a turkey because you can get all sorts of bacterial contamination that then isn't destroyed by heat, and you know, you can make your family sick, all this, blah, blah, blah.
+
+[19:41] Go look it up if you don't believe me. Anyway, it's a bad idea. But here's what I'm gonna do this year. Uh I don't want to break the turkey. In other words, I'm not going to, I'm not gonna bone it by cutting down the skin on the back and totally unfolding it like I normally would.
+
+[19:51] I'm gonna inside out, I haven't told my mom this yet. I'm gonna inside out boning it, bone it like I would for a robo turkey, right? Now here's the ball or move. I'm gonna, my mom's stuffing is great. I don't even care what you think.
+
+[20:01] Your mom, you think your mom's stuffing is good? Crap on your mom's stuffing. My mom and my good stuff. Everyone likes their own mom's stuffing. You like your mom's stuffing styles?
+
+[20:07] Yeah. Yeah. No matter what, no matter how overcooked your normal bird is, everyone loves their their parents' stuffing, right? Jack Joe? Yes.
+
+[20:14] Yes. Okay. So I'm gonna take my mom's stuffing. I'm not even gonna touch it. I'm gonna let her make it.
+
+[20:18] I'm not gonna sit there and be like, hey, ma, I have more sage. But by the way, parents don't use sage, they use poultry seasoning because they grew up in like the 50s and 60s, so they use that stuff just called poultry seasoning. Anyway, so uh we're gonna make the stuffing mix. I'm gonna heat that sucker up in the oven until it's done, mix it with a little bit of gravy. Done, right?
+
+[20:34] Hot, hot like hell. Now remember, I cook a lot, so my hand's completely impervious to heat. I was teaching at the French culinary the other day, and I was had someone infusing something in a bottle in a stove, and I was like, take it out of the, take it out of the pan, and then I can't, it's too hot. So I just reach over, picked it up, and held it for a couple minutes while I was talking to prove that they was a chump. Anyway, so like uh it's just because I have no feeling.
+
+[20:54] It's really a stupid trick. Because you have no feeling in your hand. Anyway, so it Nastasia says I have no feelings in general. She says I'm a monster. And not in a good way.
+
+[21:01] Not like when I say someone's a monster, it means they're good at something. Like when she says it's a monster, she means like they should be relegated to a pit with wailing and gnashing of teeth if you read the Bible. Uh so um, anywho, uh, so I'm gonna take this hot stuffing and I'm gonna I'm gonna take my inside out burnt bird, and instead of using aluminum foil, I'm gonna shove like boiling hot stuffing into the bird so it starts cooking from the inside out, so the stuffing's already above the cook temp. So the stuffing's actually gonna act like a heater and then throw it into a hot oven. And that turkey's gonna be done lickety freaking split, and it's also gonna be brine beforehand, so it's not gonna be able to cook.
+
+[21:33] So that's gonna be my turkey this year. What do you think? Good. Take pictures. Uh take pictures.
+
+[21:36] You know I won't. I'll try. I'll try. But anyway, so that's what I'm gonna do uh for for this year's bird. Oh, by the way, guys, Nastasha, did you Okay?
+
+[21:44] So we had the CNN in for a while before the uh about before the hurricane. Uh and they're doing a a half in a half-hour uh thing. Expose Expose. Wow. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[21:56] Yeah, hopefully, no, don't worry, folks. There's no exposing of of me, thank Christ. And so anyway, so like the uh uh it's it's a show called The Next List, The Next List. What am I so someday I'll be the now list, but like anyway, but like we're the next list. And uh yeah, so anyway, so it's gonna be on uh on the what's it called?
+
+[22:14] CNN. CNN on Sun, no, but on Sunday at 2 p.m. Yeah, Eastern Standard Time. Well, it's when the show is aired. What do you want out of me?
+
+[22:21] So apparently they're airing promos, but please watch it and tell and somehow I don't know what it did. Please watch it. Email, let us know what you think. Yeah, email let us know let us know what you think. Uh I'm super happy.
+
+[22:31] Uh I'm excited that uh they decided to do the uh see what Jack looks like. Yeah, oh Jack's on it? Nastasha managed somehow to be sick or cooking a chicken every time that they were like uh by the way, the little quotes mark in my thing. Are you on camera? No.
+
+[22:45] Because literally, like you think Nastacha's face is buried in her computer normally. She like took and built like a cardboard. Do you know what dogs wear when they when they're when they bite themselves and you put the cone on their head to stop them from biting themselves? You guys know what I'm talking about? She like put one of those around her head and then like taped that to her computer monitor so that no one would ask her any questions.
+
+[23:03] I think even though they were with us for hours and hours and hours, like not once did Nastasha peep on the dang thing, just so she could uh maintain the uh the fiction amongst people that like somehow I'm always yelling at her and she never gives back Sass. Does Nastasha not give back Sass? Oh, yeah, okay. Oh at least she has her sister in mortal mortal terror, not saying anything. Okay.
+
+[23:25] Joel uh Gargano wrote in uh who you know from the famous uh song you just heard before. He says, I know I write in often, I know, but this is for good reason. This is regarding the song. A while back, Dave asked people to create an intro song for the show. Uh this is my original song that I allow you to play without threatening you with legal action.
+
+[23:39] I recorded it all in my basement next to the furnace. Punks. Enjoy. It's a hardcore punk version that is certainly a hoot. Hope to hear it next week or soon.
+
+[23:47] It's only forty seconds. The ending is a good lead in for Dave's calling your questions to cooking issues. Uh and that's why how I used it. I thought I used it uh well. I will say though, no, you should have said 71849.
+
+[23:56] Yeah, Mr. Gargano did not remember the number. No, but Dave was supposed to say it. I did say it afterwards, but you didn't say it in front of you. I thought it would be better to get the monster truck rally voice in.
+
+[24:06] I don't know. You think I was wrong? Should I should I not give Monster Truck? No, I think you should have done Monster Truck phone number. Monster Truck 718, 497 21, 28.
+
+[24:14] That's 718 497, 21, 28. Like that? Yeah. All right. Uh if this wins some sort of contest, the grand prize must be a personal phone call from Harold McGee, reading verses of my choice from on food and cooking.
+
+[24:27] Preferably the section on my yard reactions. That one gets me all jazzed up. I'm not kidding. But I'm gonna tell Harold that. I I wish I'd heard that before, because I just spoke to him a couple days ago.
+
+[24:35] He's gonna be in town, but not for a Tuesday. Someday we'll get a bad thing. I'm gonna send it to Harold and see whether he'll agree to the case. Harold can call us anytime and we'll record that for him. And he can yeah, but he wants a personal phone.
+
+[24:47] We gotta get them both on the phone reading sections on MyRad reaction from on. I want I want to hear some tweets in on my tweet if you guys want to hear Harold McGee call in and just do an oral reading of sections of On Food and Cooking regarding Myrod reactions as a favor to Joel. I vote yes. I do too. I vote no.
+
+[25:05] Uh Francois writes in regarding the ongoing question of what the hell is in Katamaro Tempura, which is the stuff that they make in uh Japan to solidify your fry oil, and he writes in, gives sends us a picture of it that says, Look at the label, the same as your beloved Ziploc bag. And it's true, Francois, that uh uh the Katamaro Tempu, the or uh tempura, the oil hardening crap from Japan, which supposedly is in quotes seaweed, whatever the hell that means. I I could build like a weapon of mass destruction out of seaweed if you broke it apart enough and did it well. Anyway, whatever, that's not my point. My point is that it is made by SC Johnson Wax, a family company.
+
+[25:40] But, Francois, unfortunately, if you go to SC J Johnson Wax, a family company, and you look up their list of ingredients, they only give you ingredients for their American stuff, and then they send you for any other ingredients to the Japanese website, which is guess what, not in English. And then I tried to do Google Translate, and nowhere could I find any information regarding the ingredient list on Katamara tempura. So it is still a mystery. If anyone's listening in Japan, please purchase a box of this or look at the ingredients and tell me exactly what the hell's in it. Get someone from the SC Johnsonwax.jp corporation to tell you what the hell this is so we can figure out what kind of reaction it is.
+
+[26:15] Should we take a break? Yeah, but uh Coffee Mike just wrote us in and says the best turkey he ever made was in three parts. Break down the bird, made stock from the carcass, braise the legs in stock, and then roast the breast on top of the legs. Alright, listen, coffee Mike, before we go to a break, there are a couple things I think that are correct. First of all, there's what's the best tasting bird, and then there is the necessity, as an American, to present a full freaking bird at the table.
+
+[26:39] Sometimes I've even had like people break it apart, cook a bird for taste, and then cook a bird for looks, which I think is kind of weird because it's a waste of bird. But one thing I will say is boning out the turkey, which I'm gonna do, does give you the opportunity to make a delicious stock to add to gravy beforehand. So coffee Mike, good call, and I got a question answer for you after the break! Like what you hear so far? Support the network and become a member.
+
+[27:11] Membership helps us bring you the best food radio in the world and gives you access to thousands of dollars in discounts at the sustainably minded businesses that support us. To become a member, visit Heritage Radio Network.org today.org. Americraft is an American company. And like Heritage Radio Network, they provide the best. Their 360 cookware is made of the highest quality ingredients, like United States Steel.
+
+[28:17] It is made in the greenest cookware manufacturing plant in the world. Americraft makes great cookware and is focused on improvement. 360 Cookware is their exclusive line. It's a contemporary line of cookware and bakeware intended to let you, the Heritage Radio Network listeners, have a unique cooking experience. Its vapor seal allows food to be cooked in its natural juices, preserving all of the vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients without added water, oils, or fats.
+
+[28:43] 360 Cookware invites you to learn more about how this process works on their website.com. And we're back. Hey Jack. Today's program. Jesus.
+
+[28:57] Sorry, guys. Well, today's brought to me by what? What's the second one? We're gonna talk about it. No, we'll just keep going, right?
+
+[29:02] We're gonna talk about the wine? Yeah. Well, the wine was just a that's just a leftover gift. Leftover gift? Yeah.
+
+[29:08] A bonus sponsor gift. Is that our sponsor gift? Is what Passetti Pecorino? What is peccarina? How does Pecorino?
+
+[29:15] The goat grape, the goats specifically like this grape. They used to feed the sheep and goats on the grape. For real? Yeah, before they started making wine with it. And then they fertilize it, so.
+
+[29:24] Have you visited this region? Yeah, I have. Nice. Well, it's an enjoyable wine. Who makes this thing?
+
+[29:37] This is a barter house wine. Oh, I thought they dropped out of sponsoring. They're still friends. Oh, listen. Okay.
+
+[29:44] Chuck S. writes in. Okay, we're gonna talk about Jersey in a minute. In a minute? I'm gonna get a question.
+
+[29:48] Because I don't want to run, I don't want to actually miss the clip. I want to try to get through all my questions for once. Alright. Chuck S writes in. Uh oh, uh sorry, so loud.
+
+[29:55] Uh, I'm looking at buying a pressure cooker. From listening to your show, it seems like Coon Recon is a good brand to get, although they have never given us a damn thing. Right? They're Swiss, right? Yeah, they're Swiss.
+
+[30:05] They don't give anything away. It's like the Paco Jet people. They don't give anything. They take, they don't give. Nastasha loves the Swiss.
+
+[30:12] What? Yes. Yeah, she loves the Swiss. Anyway, uh it seems like Coon Recon is a good brand to get. I'd like to know a bit about the trade-offs with the various sizes they make.
+
+[30:20] It seems like you can get a pressure cooker with anywhere from a five-liter to an eight-liter capacity for similar amounts of money. I'm interested in using the pressure cooker to make stocks, beans, etc. Normally I cook for two to poor people. Two to four to poor people. Two to four people.
+
+[30:33] For instance, are there issues with buying the one uh one of the larger pressure cookers and using it to cook small batches of food? Similarly, do you have to cook uh leave a lot of headspace when using the pressure cooker so that the smaller, e.g. five-liter cookers, are effectively too small to make any practical amount of stock. Thanks a lot, and I really enjoy listening to the show. Okay, look.
+
+[30:50] I'll tell first of all, I'll tell you the one I own. I own uh they have two different main three main lines. The two main ones, they have things called pressure cookers, and the pressure cookers have handles on them typically. So do the fry pans. Uh, and then they have ones that they call stock pots.
+
+[31:07] And the stock pots don't have uh kind of pant handles, long handles that you can hold. They have the little like like dumbo ear handles like a pot has. Is that make sense, Daz? You know what I'm talking about? Okay.
+
+[31:17] So what I own is the um seven quart or a seven liter or whatever it is, uh pressure cooker with the long handle. And I've had it for a long time, probably 12 years or something like that. And I've beaten it doesn't have any handles on it anymore. I've broken them all off. There's there's nothing left on it.
+
+[31:34] I've lost the vapor lid. It's all it's all history. Um, and I use it uh constantly. And uh that's the one that I would recommend uh you get for uh any size, uh any size, unless you're cooking extremely large amounts, that's what I'd get. If you're cooking beans, beans tend to have a lot of uh uh uh things that trap air and gas.
+
+[31:54] That's what makes you toot when you have the beans, is the fact that they have compounds in them that you don't break down that can trap gas, hence the gas. Anyway, uh so uh toot. So, like um it so therefore you want a taller pressure cooker to allow that stuff when you're doing a release. If you do a release, I typically don't like fast release on a pressure cooker. I let natural release happen.
+
+[32:16] But if you're gonna do a fast release, you're gonna want a taller head on it. Anyways, uh the seven uh the seven liter or seven quart, I guess it's seven liter. The seven-liter uh pressure cooker that I have has uh a bottom of uh eight point seven five inches, which is nice for my stove top so it doesn't scorch, it doesn't have a lot of hot spots, and it's got a really high quality bottom. All right. Now I'm gonna run through all the sizes so that I'll give you an idea because the prices are fairly similar.
+
+[32:41] You want to get one that is gonna function all around for you best. I know you normally cook for two to four, but if you're ever gonna do six to eight or you're gonna make a large quantity of stock to freeze, you're gonna want uh higher quantity, all right? The 3.5 quart has a smaller bottom, eight inches, it's too small. I don't know why the hell you would ever buy that. Because frankly, it doesn't take that long.
+
+[32:59] What I usually do when I'm working is I'll get the pressure cooker up to temperature with the lid off, and that way I can keep stirring it while the lid is off before I can get it up to boiling, uh, and that prevents it from scorching. I know some people like just throw the ingredients in, cap the lid, and let it come up. I think that's a mistake that's gonna cause uh scorching because you're not moving the stuff around once the lid is on. If that's your style, if for some reason like that's your level of personal laziness, then maybe you need to get a smaller one so that it builds up a pressure head faster, right? But if you're not gonna do that, then once it's boiling, it builds up ahead of steam fairly quickly.
+
+[33:31] So it's not that much longer to build up pressure in a large pressure cooker within reason than it is in a small pressure cooker. Now, if you all of a sudden get a pressure cooker that's so large that your stove has trouble getting all of that material up to temperature fast enough, then pressure cookers that are too large are a huge problem. And I have an American pressure canner that's huge. How big is that when we have stas? It's huge.
+
+[33:52] Yeah, it's huge. I can fit your sister in that thing. And that thing takes a long time to get up to temperature, right? So that is obviously a problem. But something like a seven-liter uh, or you know, it does not take a long time to get up to temperature, especially because it has a very uh thick aluminum sandwich in the bottom of the base that conducts very well.
+
+[34:09] So it's uh it's a good, it's that's a good all-around size. That's what I get. So 3.5 quart, forget about it. The five uh liter, six-liter, uh the five-liter uh pressure cooker, the six-liter stock pot, the seven-liter uh pressure cooker, and the eight-liter family stock pot all have the same eight point seven five uh inch bottom. They're just taller.
+
+[34:30] And I like the taller ones because if you're actually gonna do stock, I like taller, thinner things. The only disadvantage being that it's hard to brown a lot of things at one time. And if you want to do single layer braises, it's not as good, although I don't really think that's that big of a deal, right? So with that one, I'd probably still go with the one I have, this seven-liter uh pressure cooker. Maybe the eight-liter stock pot, because I have cooked sometimes things that are too large for mine.
+
+[34:52] Anywho, um now you go to wider to 9.5 inches on the bottom, and they make a fry pan or uh and a brazer. Uh, I would go for the the brazer of those two, then because you're not gonna need the fry pan handle for that, and the brazer's a little bit taller. And if you like to do traditional braises, it's a little bit wider, so you could get your asebuco going and you can brown it. When I'm browning in mine with the smaller uh bottom, I have to do it in batches. I have to brown all my meat in batches, which is a little bit of a pain in the butt.
+
+[35:18] Right? Also, you're not gonna be able to serve a braise out of it that way, and your braids is gonna get all jumbled up, right? So if you want to do a lot of braising traditional style, you're gonna want to get one of the braising pans and 9.5 inches across. But you could get um one of the 11-inch across guys, like they make an eight-quart called stock, which is I don't know why the hell they call it a stock pot. Because it's short like a brazer, but it holds eight quarts.
+
+[35:40] And that might be a good all-around thing if you're not worried about a hot spot because it's a little bit bigger than most of your burners are gonna be able to handle, but it handles a full eight quartz, so it's it's or eight quarts or eight liters. It's the same size as mine, in terms of it's or a little bigger than the one I have, but it's a lot wider if you tend to do braises. Anyway, and what they didn't used to make that I wish I had now is Coon Recon makes a 12-quart stock pot. That's baller with an 11-inch bottom. That's sick.
+
+[36:03] Anyway, uh, they have a new type called uh a top model. I don't know what the hell that is. I've never used it. It looks like it's still non-venting, but I can't recommend it. Is that enough?
+
+[36:10] You think I got it? That's good. That's good. All right, I hope that helps. Okay.
+
+[36:14] Mike Trem. What was I gonna talk about now? Jersey or jersey in a minute. Jersey in a minute. Let me get my questions done.
+
+[36:19] Mike Tremolet writes in about pausing. Uh and this is all Twitter. It's mashed together from Twitter, so you have to apologize that it's all Twitter mash. Uh techniques for par cooking food and finishing together. Roast turkey, starchy pureees, roast vegetables, steamed vegetables.
+
+[36:32] Uh would like to do mashed potatoes, roast cauliflower, etc. ahead of time and finish it while the turkey rests. But how to do this without losing quality? Soggy roast veg, dry mashed potatoes. Lots of books, lots of books tell me how to cook food.
+
+[36:43] None of them tell me when to pause cooking and how to restart. That's an excellent question, right? Yes. Here's what I would say. Mashed potatoes, what you're gonna want to do.
+
+[36:51] Cook the mashed potatoes ahead of time. Uh add enough cream or butter. By the way, a lot of chefs they don't like adding cream because it adds uh water to it instead of using butter. But I actually prefer the flavor of cream in my mashed potatoes to butter. I don't know why.
+
+[37:02] It's does you a cream or a butter person? Butter. Butter. Anyway, whatever. Wiley agrees with you.
+
+[37:06] I agree with me, but that's whatever. But take your mashed potatoes, uh, and don't, you know, just make sure you do something pleasant. Like use a food mill or a ricer. At home, ricer is the easiest way to do it. You can go to any kitchen shop and get yourself a ricer and you just smash the potatoes through a ricer and it comes out like then it's beautiful.
+
+[37:22] You don't need to do a lot of post things, and you're not going to get gloopy, nasty mashed potatoes. So rice it, mix it carefully with whatever you're going to add, butter, cream, whatever. And then pack them into Ziploc bags, going back to Francois, my beloved Ziploc bags. Pack them into Ziploc bags, exclude the air, and make sure they are thin on the order of like uh less than half an inch. I would say like three eighths, something like that.
+
+[37:42] Like smash them flat, do them in a couple bags. Then do whatever with them. I don't care what you do with them. It doesn't matter to me. It's your mashed potato, right?
+
+[37:49] Then about 20, 30 minutes before, just uh heat up some water. You don't even need to be that accurate. Just get a pot of water friggin' hot, right? And uh pull it off the stove so you don't blast it out. Then throw throw the bags in to heat up.
+
+[38:02] Because you've made them thin, they'll heat up very quickly and you can serve them out. Roast vegetables are a little more difficult because it's about an interior exterior difference of uh things. I would par cook like anglaise, like I would par cook them so that they're actually done in a s in a kind of a steam situation, and then I would hit them very high in an oven for a couple of minutes to finish off if you want that kind of roast butter, but it's not the same. What I'd really, it's not the same, so I don't even know why I'm telling you that, because it's not the same. If you do a sous-vide, if you do a low temperature cook uh in a bag of vegetables, you won't have any added water to them, and you'll get some of that roast flavor because you're not losing any volatiles and stuff.
+
+[38:39] But it's really hard to get roast vegetables to come back to be exactly the same, right? I need more time to think about that rather than just Twitter at it, because I haven't I haven't successfully done that. I usually build around a non-roast. Or what you do is is I just throw the I throw the roast vegetables in with the turkey for the last little bit, pull it out, let the roast vegetables finish while the turkey is coming. The main problem is uh finishing the mashed potatoes and getting those to finish, right?
+
+[39:01] Yes. I I'm I wish I had a better answer for your roast veg, but you know, I only have so many answers in life, I guess. I guess I'm a low quality person. What do you think? That's not true.
+
+[39:09] Yeah, well, I try. I do my best. Oh, thanks, Jack. Anyway. Uh okay.
+
+[39:13] Now listen, I gave a sort of a half uh what's what's the what word I can use? By the way, I told my son Dax that jackass is not a curse because it's an animal, but he won't believe me. Every time I say the word jackass, he's like, ooh, I'm like, Jackass is an animal. I was like, it's rude to call a person a jackass because no one wants to be likened to a jackass. Right.
+
+[39:32] But jackass is not a curse. How do you explain to him that jackass is not a curse? Whereas using it to refer to your behind is a curse. It's very complicated for a seven-year-old. Yeah.
+
+[39:42] Right? Yeah. Anyway, uh what the hell brought me to that? You said you didn't want to answer this half. Half, yeah, half jackassed.
+
+[39:48] Okay. So, and how what does half ass mean anyway? How do you use half of your behind for something? Where does that come from? Okay.
+
+[39:56] All right, Rob Trapause, uh, and I kind of gave a semi-answer to it. He wrote in saying I didn't hear your answer, which is very polite way of saying you gave a crappy answer. Uh the question was when I cook low temperature sous-vide at home, I typically serve all that I make, uh, I typically serve all that I make, or chill sealed bags to rethirm them for a separate meal. Typically, I follow the 72 hour rule uh at five degrees, 41 degrees Fahrenheit storage, FDA time and temp standards for sous-vide in my domestic refrigerator or freeze for longer storage. If I follow the storage FDA storage guidelines, then sear re thermic.
+
+[40:25] Can I safely hold the leftovers for the next day or two under refrigeration? Do this FDA sous vide standards only pertain, and if you look on page 186 of Modernist Cuisine, Volume 1, I like that we now quote it like it's the Bible, 1-186 modernist cuisine. Only pertain to time spent uh in the anaerobic environment, i.e. until the bag is opened. Do these restrictions go away if I use ziplocks instead of vacuum bags?
+
+[40:46] Uh okay, so let me specifically just talk about that rather than the because I'm sure you already made your ducriettes, so I'm gonna answer that specifically. Listen, when you're doing um low temperature work in a bag, the FDA uh guidelines are built around um pasteurization times for bacteria, active bacteria. Uh and beyond pasteurization times for uh active bacteria, the storage is then assuming that you have destroyed the story, the storage guidelines are assuming that you've destroyed an adequate amount of the uh vegetative bacteria that's present, right? So you've destroyed uh the listeria, you destroyed the Acharia coli if you pasteurize it properly. What you're not able to destroy uh in in uh regular cookings are the bacteria that form spores.
+
+[41:30] So these bacteria are basically uh uh bot botulism, uh clostridium botulinum, uh perfringens, clostridium perfyngens, and I swear to God, be serious. Be serious. You believe that? That's the one that's on rice that forms spores that if you leave rice at room temperature, you can get really sick. Yo, be serious.
+
+[41:48] I love that. It's like the best name for it, it's the best name for it for a uh for a pathogen of all time. Anyway, uh so they're worried about spore forming things like this, because you're not destroying those spores. So a lot of the the holding time is worried about spore germination. Now, if you're holding food raw, it's different.
+
+[42:04] Now you're worried about bacterial growth about stuff that's already present. But assuming you've done a pasteurization step, the question is spores. Now, most of those, uh, you know, the the or the two that are most common in meats anyway, uh, are uh anaerobic. Meaning um as soon as you expose those things to air and reheat them again, uh, you have prevented um you've prevented those bacteria from uh growing because they require a lack of oxygen to grow. And so what you're doing is uh taking away that and presumably you've killed the vast, vast, vast majority.
+
+[42:39] You've done a D-level, meaning 10 to the sixth uh reduction, six log reduction of the other pathogens that are present in there. So the other, like you know, the ones that might have been there that uh are aerobic. So the point being that yes, I would assume that you are okay to reheat store for a normal period of time in your fridge and then go again. However, as modernist cuisine uh points out, or as we call it, the new food bible, um uh, you know, do not take my word as legal advice on how to properly preserve your health and safety and welfare, right? Does that make sense?
+
+[43:12] Now, on the way out, before before I go on the way out, because you know I always leave before I forget, we wish before you close out. Yeah, the term half ass, I've I've got it for you. Give it to me. Evolved from half ads. And ads is an axe-like tool with a curved blade that's shaped wood.
+
+[43:26] If you were wealthy, you paid top dollar for a new fireplace, the mantle would be shaped using the ads in the front as well as the back side, which is not visible. But if you weren't that rich and you saved money, you only had the front visible portion shaped. Cheaper job being called a half ads job. Wow. That is crazy.
+
+[43:41] And by the way, I don't just call that uh cheap, I call that smart because you could have spent some time doing something else rather than finishing the back. Although I have to say, when I disassemble things and someone is taking the care to do something on the inside that no one's ever going to see, I give a little secret baller. You know what I mean? Don't you? Anyway, I like that, Jack.
+
+[44:00] See, we gotta get that more out of that I like that. That's that's that's awesome. I appreciate that. Okay. So uh Nastasha and Piper of last week's just not talking to us fame, right?
+
+[44:09] Uh uh I love Piper. Piper's good business. Poor Piper. I love Piper. Piper's great.
+
+[44:14] Anyway, we went down to David Michael Flavor House in New Jersey and uh saw because you know we're working. Well, yeah, Philadelphia, which is kind of like, you know, okay, yeah, okay, it's Philadelphia, it's Pennsylvania. Anyway, a lot of people who work there live in Jersey. Yeah. Anyways.
+
+[44:28] So uh we're working on some sodas at Booker and Dax Equipment Company. So we went down there to test out some flavors and whatnot, and an amazing place, right? Really cool. I have never been in a flavor house before to see how kind of it's done professionally, and it is bananas. I hope everyone someday gets a chance to visit a flavor house.
+
+[44:44] It is an eye-opening thing. Let me tell you one thing that's gonna make you sit before Happy Thanksgiving, first of all. I wish you all good turkey, except for Michael Natkin, who I wish good whatever you're making. Michael, tell us what you're making. I'm interested.
+
+[44:55] I want to know what like the most festive vegetarian Thanksgiving dishes are. Like, like what's the giant baller vegetarian Thanksgiving turkey, not a substitute, because I know Michael, that you're not substituting. I know you don't fall into that trap of making some cruddy thing that acts like a turkey that's not. I want to know something that takes the place of a turkey in a vegetarian Thanksgiving that just kicks some serious behind. So if you hear this before Thanksgiving, please let me know on the Twitter what it is that you do.
+
+[45:23] But anyway, happy Thanksgiving, one and all. And what were we talking about? Flavorhouse. No, but but after that, I was gonna say and I'm gonna tell you about this really cool thing at the Flavor House. Oh my god, you're okay.
+
+[45:34] Listen to this. So, David Michaels is the largest behind McCormick's producer of vanilla in the world. And they have like eight bazillion different vanillas, and when I went and talked to the vanilla exp one one of their many vanilla experts there, uh they have like I met in like in like a period of like an hour and a half to three, four hours, whatever, I met like a good three or four percent of all of the flavor flavorists on on you know in the United States, because they have like a bunch of them there, it's only three or four hundred. It's a really weird, dark art of like craziness. Anyways, so uh like we met like their vanilla guru, and uh and you know, I thought I knew something about vanilla.
+
+[46:10] I mean, I've read a book or two on it, and I was like, I don't know anything about vanilla. You know what I mean, right? You're gonna say it was like amazing. Anywho, so we went we visited uh their vanilla processing place. So listen to this.
+
+[46:22] So they take all of this vanilla and they have barrels of vanilla, and back there there was a crisis in uh Madagascar, when in 2004 or something like that, they said. And uh it got up so expensive that like the drum of uh vanilla that we looked at in 2004 would have been worth like 50 grand to the one bucket, and they have bucket after bucket after bucket, don't break in, they have weapons anyway. So listen. So we're looking at this bucket of chummed vanilla because they chum it all up before they do their uh that means chop, uh and they before they put it in the alcohol, do the extraction. And then after they do the extraction, which is all proprietary, hoo-ha-hoo-ha, they put it in a centrifuge, and what's left is spent vanilla, and we tasted it, and it tastes not like vanilla, it tastes vaguely brown, almost like an olive tapanade, right?
+
+[47:04] Almost like a black olive topony. It was crazy. I was very surprised. Get this. Then are you allowed to say this?
+
+[47:11] Yeah. Anyway, so then check this. So if you buy the vanilla ice cream that has the little dots in it, and you're like, eyo, it's got dots, he's got the real vanilla. So listen, you buy it with the dots. Here's what they do.
+
+[47:22] They take inherently flavorless, flavorless, actual vanilla seeds, the little seeds, and then they take that and they mix it back into the extract that they just made to make it look real. But they're actually theoretically, they're not adding that much, so don't worry about it. But they're accident they're actually dumbing down the flavor a little bit to give you the aesthetic appearance that that somehow it's real when in fact it was already real and they added some extra BS to it to make it look more real. Cooking issues.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[48:08] You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by S. Wallace Edwardson Sons, a third generation Cure Masters producing the country's best dry cured and aged hams, bacon, and sausage. For more information, visit SurreyFarms.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more.
+
+[0:58] Cooking issues! Call it live at 718-497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. It's Dave Arnold with Cooking Issues coming to you live every Tuesday on the back of our burden's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn, here with Nastasha the Hammer, Lopez, and Jack and Joe in the engineering booth. How you guys doing today?
+
+[1:16] Hey. All on two hours sleep. Can you believe that? Two hours sleep. Yeah.
+
+[1:21] Well, that's why we needed a theme song like this one. Yeah, Jack is well, I like the fact that we have uh it's so stupid. Like I go into the crazy mode and then here I am back in normal normal mode. Nor anyway. But we have like uh we have two songs, which is awesome.
+
+[1:33] So we have the break song, and then we have the the the crazy, you know, get me going with no sleep song. We'll take more. Yeah. As listeners, we'll take more. Yeah?
+
+[1:42] I'm s um by the way, Joel, I'm I'm trying to get McGee to call in and and read the Myard stuff, but you know it for Christmas. It's er uh that's gonna be his Christmas present. If I can convince McGee to do that. Who? Joel.
+
+[1:55] Oh, well, whatever. I mean, like, you know, I can give someone a Christmas present regardless of whether they celebrate. It's not like it's not like I'm smacking them in the face. Like a gift is a gift. If someone wants to give, hey, look, anyone out there wants to give me a gift from some other religion, I am glad to accept it.
+
+[2:09] See? Me too. Yeah, right? Mm-hmm. What about you guys?
+
+[2:12] Uh it depends. He's like, no Zoarestrian gifts. Right? Well, what what what gift would you not accept, Jack? Is that Jack or Joe who wouldn't accept?
+
+[2:22] That was me, Jack. And I I don't know. I mean, are there like Scientology holidays? Oh. Yeah.
+
+[2:28] I think I think not. I think not, too. Like, I don't know. Maybe there's Scientology gifts. Uh well, there's there's always one Scientology gift.
+
+[2:37] Dianetics. Okay. Um we have a question in. Uh by the way, seriously, you can call any questions live to 7184972128. That's 784972128.
+
+[2:48] Oh, this weekend we had the the CNN thing went on. I cannot believe that Nastasha managed to not be on that entire half hour program. They never asked me. Uh they didn't ask Piper either, and yet he's on. You know why?
+
+[3:00] Because he didn't hide away from the camera. I did not hide. I was in clear view. Well, that's actually not true. You s rescheduled your flight back to the country to miss the cooking issues episode when they went through a lot of hoops.
+
+[3:13] You're like, yeah, have them come that day. Everything's fine. Oh yeah, I'm not gonna be here. They came the second time though. Yeah, but they'd already done most of the shooting.
+
+[3:21] Look, just people like people, she does not want to be on the camera. She's a crazy person. She's a crazy person. But not just for that reason. Many reasons.
+
+[3:28] Please call in and convince her that next time she should not hide from uh the cameras. But I thought it was good. It was fun. I like it's an expose. Speaking of expose, uh I was very happy with the program.
+
+[3:40] I enjoyed it. Um, which is unusual. I detest watching myself in any any form. But the um so CNN did a blog, and the blog post that they decided to do was on uh good liquid nitrogen. So they did like, I don't know, they put the liquid nitrogen, and then the internet trolls came out of their freaking caves and were typing all sorts of nonsense about liquid nitrogen.
+
+[4:04] So l first of all, it was all about that awful case we talked about you know a couple of weeks ago a month ago now, maybe, right? Where the this like you know, incredibly unfortunate, this 18-year-old uh woman in uh England was served uh liquid nitrogen to drink, which is a horrible and and unconscionable thing for a bartender to do, and she lost her stomach. And it's horrible. Uh completely awful, but also uh would never happen with anyone who's using uh liquid nitrogen properly. But you get all these like freaks on the internet who have no idea what they're talking about, and they just are slamming uh slamming me for using liquid nitrogen, saying things that are patently untrue about liquid nitrogen.
+
+[4:49] Like, for instance, this one person, and this I commented once to set some stuff straight, and then Nasasha was like, Don't comment again, just leave it alone, leave it alone, leave it alone. But here it's my radio show, I get to do what I want. So they this one person says, uh, whose by the way, their actual name is yeah, right. No, I think that's their handle. Oh, I know, I'm kidding.
+
+[5:06] Because any anonymous jerk sitting alone in their underwear can make comments on the internet like they're like they know what's going on. But anyways, so what happened is they they say, well, you know, there's always the possibility for human error, so there's there's no reason to do it. Which is, I mean, the possibility for human error using liquid nitrogen if you use it properly in terms of a of a customer getting hurt that way, like a horrible thing that happened in England, is roughly on the order of saying that if a chef was chopping onions in uh plain view of a customer, that they might trip and throw the knife through the customer's head. And and that if that happened, then uh you know, we should ban the use of knives in kitchens. It's simply ridiculous.
+
+[5:47] Like I cannot state in stronger terms how awful it is what happened in England and how thoroughly, thoroughly punished the person is who did that, and how freaking horrible it is that they that they did that. And and I also cannot emphasize in stronger terms that that is not a reason to ban the use of liquid nitrogen, and that people writing it on the internet simply don't know what they're talking about. And I kept on getting the gimmick crap. The guys, the guys who are against liquid nitrogen, by and large, are throwbacks, it seems, from their writing to like a very old school of thought where it they just think everything's a party trick. They don't, they're not bothering to pay attention.
+
+[6:25] Forget what I'm doing with it, or you know, anyone at the bar, anyone that knows me or is associated with me. If you look around, there are many uh many uses of liquid nitrogen that are they're not uh gimmicks, right? I'm sure there are uses of liquid nitrogen that are gimmicks in the same way that if you go to a benihana, no offense to the Benihana people, but if you go to Benihana, their knife use is a gimmick. Do you know what I'm saying? So, yes, a knife can be used as a gimmick, and liquid nitrogen can be used as a gimmick, and a knife can be used to you know cook, and liquid nitrogen can be used.
+
+[6:55] Uh well, it won't cook because it's cold, but you know what I'm saying, right? Is that enough? Elliot Pappanow tweets, please also ban fire. It's very dangerous. You know, he's right.
+
+[7:05] It is extremely dangerous. I've been burnt several times this year alone. You know, uh, but uh anyway, so that goes into uh uh we have a question um oh I don't have the person oh from Paul uh at American Meltdown. He says, I graduated from FCI back in 07. We didn't get to interact much.
+
+[7:23] I was in the last class of the old four phase uh culinary tech uh paradigm and there was no culinary technology stuff. Uh I had a question about well, we I was there, but I didn't wasn't teaching the the regular blah blah blahs, I guess yet. Anyways. Uh no, I did. Anyway, whatever.
+
+[7:37] Uh I had a question about liquid nitrogen. I own and operate the American Meltdown Food Truck in North Carolina. Uh we serve uh gourmet melts and grilled cheeses. I like grilled cheese. You like grilled cheese sauce?
+
+[7:47] You love, right? That's one of the few things Nastasha actually I can I can legitimately say Nastasha loves herself with grilled cheese. Do you like anything? First time I've heard her say the word love on the show, I think. I know it.
+
+[7:55] I know it. Is it because your mom didn't make grilled cheese that we have? Yeah, she did. Yeah? Do you enjoy things on your grilled cheese or do you like what kind of cheese do you like?
+
+[8:07] Uh cheddar. Well, that's the other love you have, Swiss. What was it? What was the second one? Cheddar.
+
+[8:11] Ch cheddar. It doesn't melt very well. You don't care? Don't care. All right.
+
+[8:16] What do you think about American cheese? No. Don't like it. Don't like it? Don't like it.
+
+[8:21] Uh you're patriotic, David. I'm not. Not patriot. I have nothing to do with patriotism. Do you know where American cheese was invented?
+
+[8:26] In England. Oh. Oh, in Switzerland, maybe. It's it was in Europe, anyway. It was not here.
+
+[8:31] It was invented, actually. No, it was invented by the Swiss. It's been the Swiss Nastasha. You know why? As a fondue.
+
+[8:36] Look it up right now. Because the book, the book which I downloaded somewhere on my computer is Processed Cheese Analogs, but I believe processed cheese was invented by the Swiss, which makes sense because of their love of freaking fondue. But look it up. Anyway, uh back to the question. I had a question about liquid nitrogen.
+
+[8:51] Blah blah blah. Uh I wanted to bring on some liquid nitrogen uh for a play on frozen grilled cheese. I don't know how you would freeze a grilled cheese, though. But anyway, we'll liquid nitrogen. I don't know.
+
+[9:00] I mean, like, but in other words, if you freeze the grilled cheese, it's frozen grilled cheese. I don't understand. But anyway, uh, I've had some difficulty with equipment. I found the place to buy the liquid nitrogen, and the guys will let me carry it off in a styrofoam box. As far as dispensing it, do I need a tank?
+
+[9:12] Uh, where would I get a tank to hold L in? I saw uh some one-liter ones at McQueenLabs.com. In my head, I have a tank with a hose, and I would put something like olive oil into a bowl and then squirt in the liquid nitrogen, and it would get the popcorn like frozen shapes, which is similar to the Dan, you know, Danny Garcia, the famous uh Spanish chef, used to make uh frozen uh olive oil in various ways. But he he actually did it exactly uh in the reverse, right? So he's it or would I pour some ladle some liquid nitrogen into a bowl and then pour the olive oil in?
+
+[9:38] That is what typically you would do. So in fact, I saw Danny Garcia once do the olive oil demo in a styrofoam box. And um when he's doing his stuff when he's when you're freezing olive oil, the trick is is that it breaks up into little uh pieces, uh like almost like couscous. So he, if you sit in the LN long enough, it makes this guy couscous like thing. If you want like kind of foamier, denser things, he used to emulsify different amounts of water in to get different textures.
+
+[10:02] The more water you add, the more it hurts your face, though, because the water hurts a lot when you put it in uh cold frozen like that, whereas the uh olive oil by itself doesn't have as high of a specific heat, so it can't uh actually uh damage you as badly. But anyway, he would put uh olive oil in an ISI canister, shake it up and then foam it into the liquid nitrogen, and the aeration would also make it less damaging on the tongue, provide interesting texture and get those popcorn like things. So that's how Danny Garcia used to do it. And in fact, I did that demo once because we had a whole bunch of liquid nitrogen and people wanted to see it. I'm like, alright, I'm now gonna pretend I'm Nanny Garcia because I hate doing other people's demos.
+
+[10:37] So I literally was like, I'm I am Danny Garcia, but not. Anyway, and so I did like because I had seen him do his demos, so I did uh you know, I did a lot a lot of those. I mean, not as well as he did. I'm not trying to say I was but anyway, I uh I did that. So um okay.
+
+[10:50] Uh so you don't if you're putting it in a styrofoam box, there's not much point in putting it into something. I mean styrofoam box is not so good. You gotta be careful when you have a styrofoam box because uh they can crack, and if they crack, they dump liquid nitrogen everywhere. So you want to make sure that if you do use a styro, it's like like something sturdy like a fish tub, and that you have it in a cardboard with uh duct tape around it so that it doesn't break. Um you can pour it into coffee carafts is the easiest way, uh, because you're not gonna be that uh, you know, you're not gonna be that efficient in storing it this way anyway.
+
+[11:19] Eventually you're gonna want to go get like a 35 uh liter dew or or something like that. Um you you ask, do I need a tank? Will the LN just evaporate quicker without one? Yes, that's the case. It'll just evaporate quicker.
+
+[11:32] And you know, the problem with styrofoam boxes, they also have a fairly large surface area, so unless you keep it capped all the time, you're gonna lose a lot. And when you pull the thing off, you're gonna lose a lot. But if you're getting a cheap price on it, it's an okay way to start out. Just be careful that it can't slosh around because things can slosh out of those containers and then get liquid nitrogen all over everywhere. And if you're not being cautious, especially if you're in a food truck, never let it get in a situation where the liquid nitrogen is above the head of a customer and you're serving down to them with liquid nitrogen because then you could get liquid nitrogen and you could pour it like you know, potentially into their eyes or in inside of a piece of their clothing where it could get trapped and cause uh severe burns.
+
+[12:08] You also want to make sure you don't have large amounts of liquid nitrogen inside of your truck unless your truck is completely ventilated to the outside so that you have no possibility of um what's the word I'm looking for? Asphyxiation. Asphyxiation. Nastasha's like, I don't know. Oh, and it was the British, not Swiss for American cheese.
+
+[12:24] It was British British for processed cheese in general. Look up processed cheese and melting salts in general. That's not American cheese okay well clearly at least American cheese was invented by the Brits but processed cheese in general I believe is invented by the Swiss keep looking so I've got 1911 by Walter Gerber in Switzerland that's wait wait wait that's that's that's processed cheese James L Kraft is the first who applied for a patent for the method in 1916 and then craft was the first to commercial commercially slice them keep them you know sell them sliced in 1950. So in the US in the US in the US in the US yeah yeah yeah uh the Swiss so Nastasha your precious yeah well what do you think American cheese is hello it's processed cheese made with cheddar duh hey by the way just so you know I've said this before on the show but this is what I do with my kids. I give them a prize anyone the first person who calls in I'll send you two dollars if you get this so what is going to be more likely to produce a better emulsified uh uh uh processed cheese product an aged cheese or a non-aged cheese first caller in gets two bucks I don't know how how am I gonna get two bucks paypal PayPal we'll PayPal you two bucks okay um now uh back on the thing uh we are in closed space being inside the truck but there are two huge ventilation hoods a service window and a large back door that can swing open uh I feel that has enough airflow but I could be wrong thanks for your time and response listen uh it could be enough airflow just make sure that there's no possibility that one of your workers is in there and it gets sealed like for instance when you're driving and if you're driving and they have a like a big tub of liquid nitrogen and you get hit it could dump over and then the entire styrocooler of liquid nitrogen is on the floor of your truck and it's sealed, and then you're shafted because you might have gotten knocked out and you can't open the window or something like that.
+
+[14:05] So the it any time you have liquid nitrogen in a vehicle like that, it has to be away from you, secure, and all the windows have to be open, right? That's what that's the rule. That's the rule we Nastasha's like, I don't want to talk to you about it. Well on the show, what are you talking about? There's no one else I can talk to.
+
+[14:14] Please. Okay. Um Tony Tony Harrian writes in from the mixing bar in Brazil. Hey, Dave, Nastasha, Jack, and Joel. Uh Joe.
+
+[14:28] I don't know why I said Joel. Crazy. Because I'm gonna talk about Joel later. Yeah. Uh salute from Brazil once again.
+
+[14:33] This Tuesday I've been invited to speak to a group of bartenders, media and industry people, uh, about the use of salt in drinks in Sao Paulo. They uh I want to go to Sao Paulo. I don't like Portuguese. The language or the people? Yeah.
+
+[14:44] But uh, do you don't like like European Portuguese or Brazilian Portuguese? But see, I like Brazilian Portuguese, but actual Portuguese makes no sense to me. It sounds like Russian. Is that why you like it? It sounds all crazy to me.
+
+[14:55] Like like Portuguese from Portugal sounds all crazy to me. And like Brazilian Portuguese sounds like Portuguese to me. Anyway. Uh, okay. Uh the project is called Mentes Brijantes, Brilhantes, brilliant minds, and is produced by the Brazilian cocktail site, Mixology News, to promote the uh promote the exchange of ideas within our cocktail scene.
+
+[15:14] My presentation is pretty much all set up, but it'll be awesome to include any hint or pointer from the cooking issues team. Uh, I know from the episode you did with Tony Canal that you use uh or Tony C, as they say, Tony C. Do you know that in America when you pronounce the ball players, the dead famous uh Boston Red Sox ballplay's name, that they literally even like I was talking to my 93-year-old uh my stepfather's father, my stepgrandfather, whatever, you know, who's Italian, Adonisio, right? From Boston, and it sealed anyway. So he he even says canigliaro.
+
+[15:44] Canigliaro. That's what the Bostonites called him anyway. Whatever. Simon's gonna start calling uh Tony Tony Canigliaro. What do you think?
+
+[15:50] I like it. You like that? Mm-hmm. Tony Canigliaro. Anyway, that you use salt in a few drinks at Booker and Dax.
+
+[15:55] In fact, we use them in most drinks in Booker and Dax. Anything that has um any form of fruit in it, really, coffee, chocolate, anything like that has uh uh salt in it. Sub threshold, sub threshold. Uh, but would love to hear more of your experiences with it. I'm going to use the drink uh the search for delicious to exemplify how salt can help bitterness in drinks.
+
+[16:13] Participants will get a glass containing uh china, put a mes, uh, and orange bitters, and we'll gradually add lemon juice and salt tincture. The salt tincture is gonna be at 100 mils of uh water and 15 grams of salt, which is roughly what we do, right? Uh to see how it changes over time, um, tasting the drink at each step. Uh I know it's a bold cocktail, uh, but it's pretty impressive. How a few drops of salt and ass, it can really change this drink.
+
+[16:35] The workshop is based on the article I wrote for Mixology News a while ago. Of course, it's in Portuguese, so it's useless to me because and I I hate Google Translator. I'm sorry. Sorry, Tony, I can't stand the Google Translate. Do you like Google Translate?
+
+[16:44] It's awful. It's always wrong. Always wrong. Um any pointers, ideas about the use of salt in drinks and its effects. Appreciate it.
+
+[16:51] Uh, I'm sure to mention a lot about you guys in the seminar. Cheers, Tony. Okay, so first of all, um, I was not aware of this word, but here's my favorite new title in the world. Maybe this is what you should become instead of uh error apparent. Maybe you should be chemosensory psychophysicists.
+
+[17:07] I think that's a real It's real. Yeah, I know, but uh people earn that. You think? Yes. You think that's like an earned title?
+
+[17:15] You can't just like it's like it's like everyone says, I'm an architect. Did you go to architecture school? Did you pass the test? You know what I mean? It's like so you think it's like that?
+
+[17:21] You have to actually pass a test? I do to be a chemosensory psychophysicist. It's got the word psycho in it. Yeah. Well, you can stick with that.
+
+[17:29] Psychophysicists. Like, what if it's just psychophysicist and not chemosensory psychophysicists? Can you be that? Sure. Okay.
+
+[17:35] Uh anyway, so like very, very clearly, the uh people who are the top of their game on this are uh P. A. Breslin and uh G.K. Beauchamp. And they're they work for Monell out of Philadelphia, and they've written all of the good articles on salt and bitterness.
+
+[17:50] And some of the good ones you might want to look at, but a lot of their like classic work was done in the late 90s. And so you might want to look up salt enhances flavor by suppressing bitterness. And uh another good one is salt taste, which is a chapter in a book. That one came out in uh 2008, and that's uh a good it's good because it's a um it's what's it called? It's a it's a a review, a review section.
+
+[18:16] Anyway, so the interesting thing is, and uh by the way, while I was researching this to get some more uh information, I learned some uh extremely interesting things. So everybody knows that um I guess everybody doesn't know this. Uh uh if you present something that smells sweet with with something, that uh it makes everything taste uh sweeter. So, like in other words, if I give you banana aroma and sugar, it tastes sweeter than if I just gave you banana aroma alone. Does that make sense?
+
+[18:45] And if I add uh certain things, but if if I ask you to evaluate and then things have different synergies. So typically if you add salt, salt masks bitterness. So it like if you add salt to it, bitterness level is reduced. Typically, if you but what's crazy is if I ask you to rate it there's very recent scholarship that that when you just have someone rate a single thing like sweetness, they could all make sense. But that if you actually say, for instance, in sweet, if you're gonna do a sour and salt together, if you ask someone to rate the wow, someone just tossed a pizza on someone's chest, it was awesome.
+
+[19:18] Sweet. You see that? Yeah. It's like we we watched the the kind of like dining room here, and there was a there was a pizza chest toss. Anyway.
+
+[19:24] Grease on cashmere. Yeah, grease on cashmere. That's a good band. Anyone out there, you're welcome. Grease on cashmere.
+
+[19:30] That sounds like a lot of like remember that band Lubricated Goat? No. Yeah. Someone look up whether see see see whose album was circus peanut. I think it might have been lubricated goat.
+
+[19:44] Um great bad names, family show. Okay. So uh back to what I was saying. So but if you actually tell someone, okay, now rate salt and and and sour separately, they can. They can rate it.
+
+[19:56] But anyway, in general, salt is extremely complicated. So the way so the way the way it affects your taste. So the way it affects your taste is uh is very dependent on concentration. So when you add salt, for instance, like some people add salt to coffee, when you're adding salt to things uh uh in low concentrations, you s so okay, look I get so I get so like all over myself. My head's going at like a million miles a minute that I can't I gotta slow down, slow down, slow down the head.
+
+[20:22] Okay. If you take uh bitter and a bitter component and let's say a sweet component and you have them together, the in a drink, the bitter component and the sweet component will mutually suppress each other. Does that make sense? Right? So it'll taste both less sweet and less bitter.
+
+[20:42] But if you add salt to that, right, even fairly small amounts of salt to that mixture, what ends up happening is uh the salt suppresses the bitterness, but also undoes the uh undoes the suppression that the bitterness did to the sweetness. So it tastes even sweeter. So it tastes like the bitterness is going down and the sweetness is going up. Even though actually what's happening is you're unmasking the the you're unmasking the bitters no longer masking of the sweetness. And this is like really super interesting work that like Beauchamp and Breslin did uh out of Monell.
+
+[21:19] And like everyone should, everyone should kind of kind of read that. But just in um in very kind of uh round terms, in the article salt enhances the flavor by suppressing bitterness. Uh he says our data shows that in addition to adding desired saltiness to food, salt potentiate flavor through the selective suppression of bitterness and perhaps other undesirable flavors, and the release from suppression of palatable flavors such as sweetness. The desire for NACL and other salts and foods as diverse as often bitter vegetables, oily foods, and meats may be due in part to their ability to suppress unpleasant flavors. This may explain why it is difficult to make low sodium foods acceptable.
+
+[21:57] That's a quote from that article. Another interesting thing that uh Beauchamp in his uh in his what's it what's that thing called? A review article. Uh gives a really interesting example that you can smack your friends across the face with subhold uh subthreshold salt, right? And I've said this a million times on the air, but I've never said it so succinctly, and that's why these are the smart guys.
+
+[22:15] Uh this is in salt taste. So Nastasha, does bread taste like the average loaf of bread? Does it taste salty? No. No, it doesn't, right?
+
+[22:24] So I would call that subthreshold salt, right? Uh and so but when you get Tuscan bread, it what? Tastes good. It sucks. Everyone knows it sucks.
+
+[22:35] You're just being ornery. Suskin bread has no salt and it sucks. And so that shows you kind of the incredible rounding effect that salt can have on something, even though it's below uh threshold. And that in fact is the exactly thing what Beauchamp says. Uh he says, I think it's a he, I don't know, maybe woman.
+
+[22:51] She, he, I don't know. Um that consider again bread and bread products. The salt in these make up the single largest source of sodium consumed in the U.S. diet. I did not know that.
+
+[23:01] Uh I did not know that. Yet we typically do not perceive bread as salty. Bread without salt tastes insipid or bad, like Tuscan bread does. Uh that's emphasis is mine. Uh when salt is added, the flavors enhanced without making the bread taste salty.
+
+[23:14] Thus, salt when added to food must have functions other than adding saltiness, and then goes on to explain uh what they are. Wow. Wow. What? Those guys are necessary to make it.
+
+[23:25] They can't see. You gotta say what's going on if you're gonna make a couple. Well, first of all, it's raining cats and dogs here. It's like the day you'd never need sunglasses in in Bushwick, and uh two of the three of the group are wearing sunglasses. Yeah, and like, you know, major, like, you know, leaning back, and then you know, I had to actually use this interesting, I had to use the women's bathroom today before the show.
+
+[23:48] Uh, and by the way, the Robert's people apparently love women a lot more than they love men because your bathroom is you've been to the men's bathroom? Yeah, men's bathroom, hellhole. But not just because it's filthy, because men are filthy, just it's like laid out like I don't care. I don't care. I don't care.
+
+[24:03] So your you know, your legs are smashing into this thing. I don't care. You know? So the so the door's gonna clock you in the head. If you know, who cares?
+
+[24:10] You're a dude. You know what I mean? The women's like, you know, you could turn around, you know, you can wash your hands, the spigot's not like, you know, like half a millimeter off of the what? What? But anyway, so the reason I went into the women's bathroom, I was given specific okay because apparently uh uh a couple had gone in there and they were finishing up last night's festivities.
+
+[24:31] Whoa. Yeah. Yeah. So it's not it's not that they're like that in the morning, it's still nighttime for them. Uh we'll see when Indy Jesus isn't around all hell breaks.
+
+[24:41] Ha ha ha ha! Boom. Oh, that's a good one. No, geez, that's good. That's good business.
+
+[24:50] All right. And two, uh, just to break it down the line for you. For example, this is a quote again from uh from these guys. For for example, subthreshold salt levels increase perceived sweetness and decrease perceived acidity. Whereas subthreshold sugar concentrations make a food taste less salty than it actually is.
+
+[25:06] And in very weak concentrations, salt might actually enhance the flavor of acids because it's not linear. It changes whether it's subthraled, super threshold, and how much. So the answer is there is no answer. You like that? I like that.
+
+[25:18] Nastasha loves uh there is no answer. Oh, you want to go to our first commercial break? Let's do it. Is that for me? Yeah.
+
+[25:26] Cooking issues. Like what you hear so far? Support the network and become a member. Membership helps us bring you the best food radio in the world and gives you access to thousands of dollars in discounts at the sustainably minded businesses that support us. To become a member, visit Heritage Radio Network.org today.
+
+[26:32] Today's program has been brought to you by S. Wallace Edwards and Sons. Edward's Suriano hams are aged to perfection for no less than 400 days, and hickory smoked to achieve a deep mahogany color. The Edwards name is well known for its world-class aged and cured meats. Their exclusive hearing and aging recipe produces a unique flavor profile that enhances the quality characteristics of Berkshire pork.
+
+[26:57] Optimum amounts of pure white fat marbling contribute to a flavor that's a delicate, perfect balance between sweet and salty. For more information, visit www.suryfarms.com. Ooh, reverb. Uh we have a caller, yeah. Yeah, caller, you're on.
+
+[27:15] Caller on the air. Yeah, hey, Dave. Mark Jensen here down in Lexington, Kentucky. Nice. Hey, man, I've been listening to you guys, Nastasia, Jack, Joe.
+
+[27:25] It's been a dream to let uh get all this information over the radio. It's fantastic. Thanks for listening. Thanks for listening. What do you got for us?
+
+[27:32] All right, this is apropos, because I'm also a food truck owner, and this also can kind of uh has something to do with Portuguese cooking. So here we go. I'm doing a Macau style pork chop bun tomorrow for a gig. And of course that has some kind of Portuguese influence and Chinese influence. But my big question is, I'm gonna coat this in a starch and then deep fry it after I marinate the pork chop bun after Marinate the Pork Chop.
+
+[27:59] On starches, what do you think lends to a more crispy crust if I'm just really powder coating it? I'm not gonna do a batter. Yeah, I mean you know, it's uh everyone has their own feeling. First of all, you're gonna you said you're gonna souve it and then like bring it they're gonna be thin enough that you're just gonna fry from cold after they're after their uh low temp. Is that what you said you were gonna do?
+
+[28:21] Exactly. Okay. Exactly. Um I mean, I think there's a couple of things you're gonna look. Everyone has their own view about uh kind of what's going on.
+
+[28:28] But the issue with any kind of skim coat is that you're you're you're unless it's dry, it's hard to get like a real crunchy surface on it unless you know I I need to do more research on it. I've I learned here at Roberta's they do uh uh chicken that's a variant of a kind of a well-known restaurant that was closed at the time but is open again called Pies and Thighs, and they literally take it out of their brine, throw it into flour, and then fry it. So apparently, like everything I learned, because when I learned it was you know, you'd make a pellicle, uh, you know, you dry it real real so to get adhesion, and then you do uh flour liquid flour fry, which is not what you're looking to do. But these guys go directly into the the starch from wet. Were you gonna go into the starch from wet or no?
+
+[29:14] Uh I was thinking about patting it dry at least. Yeah. Right. All right. Uh but but not a multiple coat.
+
+[29:19] I'm keeping it thin. Uh and I was leaning toward uh a corn flour, uh keeping it in the kind of Chinese tradition, but uh that corn exactly is is old world, but right. I mean, you know, I've done I've done uh rice starch batters and they're they're you know they have that a certain flavor, and in fact some people even if would put uh you know, but you you can't in your application, but they they put some uh uh you know cowl in there, some some basic stuff in there to to alter it or or baking soda even. But you know, Nils uh Norrin always used to use uh water chestnut uh flour. And he swore by water chestnut flour.
+
+[29:58] Uh now not chestnut flour. The the storeroom used to make that mistake all the time. Water chestnut flour. And it was it was good, but that was what he always used to swear by. Uh, you know, and I don't know which one of the countries over there that he was working in where he picked it up.
+
+[30:12] I don't know whether he picked that up in China, I don't know if he picked it up in Singapore, I don't know where he picked it up. But that was that was his go-to for when we when we used to do the whole uh fish, the whole striped bass, and he wanted and we would pull it out, we would only let it you know dry off for a second. He would always dust it in um water chestnut flour. And I have to admit, it was better in my rem in my memory than when we just used you know plain uh wheat flour or any of the other kind of uh normal normal starches. You might want to look at a modified starch like crisp coat uh or something like that, and it's not gonna be too expensive in the um in the quantities that you're using, probably, at least you know, unless you're gonna do it forever.
+
+[30:50] I think you can get that stuff from modernist pantry. Uh, but you know, that stuff it you know, when it's designed to form a kind of a moisture barrier so that it uh you know crisp coat, hence its name crisp coat, but it could be added also to other starches, so you don't need to use exclusively that. In fact, in industrial usage, they use it only at around I think around 10% usage ratio versus other starch, but it definitely is built to increase uh uh adhesion and crispness in the uh in the in the coating. So you might want to look into something like that. Interesting.
+
+[31:18] Do you think that uh crisp coat is something that is put into say wandra? Wondra, uh, you know, I've also never done a lot of testing with frying with wonder wondra is is just like uh it's it's uh agglomerated so that it dissolves uh you know uh easily uh and there are some people who swear by wandra coatings in their in their frying, but uh I used it only once or twice in tests, and I you know my feeling was that it had a weird taste but it could have been something else I I really didn't give it enough of a test to to say that I love it or or I don't and for some reason I never got in the habit of keeping Wondra around for gravies because I you know I just feel like it's not necessarily and by the way I'm not a like an it needs to be necessary kind of a guy it's just I just never bothered it never bothered becoming a part of my my pantry but there are people who swear by it have you ever tried have you ever tried it or do you like it? Hello I'm still here me no I'm not a wonder guy either uh it's just that's something that's down here in the south more uh and I was wondering since you meant mentioned crisp coat that maybe that was part of its uh profile yeah no no it's it's just uh I mean like in other words like what they do to certain starches if you look up the natural national starch which is a starch company that I like to go to a lot uh they you know they have a lot of agglomerated starch products for instance like i wondra is the is the starch equivalent of ultra spurse versus ultra text so you know it's prehydrated um the all well those are prehydrated ultra spurts and ultra text I don't really know how wondra's done but the one's agglomerated so that it dissolves easily and doesn't clump up and the other one's a pain in the butt. Mm-hmm gotcha. Well I may check into that water chestnut flour and we've got some good Asian markets here and I might be able to source that.
+
+[33:09] Yeah and I'm I'm I'm just doing it off the top of my head so you should uh when you do some research on it let us know what happened. Send us a tweet or something. Excellent. I shall, man. Thank you, everybody.
+
+[33:18] I appreciate it. Alrighty, good luck. Why is my iPad shut down? It's crazy. I hate that.
+
+[33:24] Okay. Oh, by the way, we got a question we have uh Jack, we're okay over there we got another caller we got another caller. Caller, you're on the air. Uh, yeah, Dave. Uh, a couple questions about pressure cooker stock and then one about sweet potato fries, if I'm not taking up too much time.
+
+[33:37] Now it's ghost, do it. Um, okay, so when I make pressure cooker stock, which you got me started on and I'm having outstanding results with. Okay, if if I just don't open the lid on a coon recone do it during after the last extraction, however many I'm doing, is it sealed enough to just be canned and like room temperature stable for a day or two? All right, that is an excellent question. Uh excellent, excellent question.
+
+[34:07] And um okay, so if you were to if you were to uh when you bring it up to pressure, like just do a couple of ch ch vent to get all the extra air out, and you've done it a couple of times, I I would say I would I would be okay with it. I've not not done the studies because if you look at actual pressure canning, um, they're very, very clear that you need to purge the entire thing from with air and then uh have it be full steam before you start your timing on it for being canned. But I think the reason they're doing that is because they're they're cooking it for a bare minimum amount of time and they don't want air trapped in next to the food particle, which is going to slow heat transmission and therefore gonna slow the rate of cooking. I think that if you're doing a stock for long enough that it's probably not an issue, and at the outside and all the air and everything that's in that head space are uh are going to get fully um you know fully you know pressure cooked. Um now i if you're gonna reheat the stock, remember the stock is not uh like it's not really cannibal straight I mean i it is I mean if you if you if you do it long enough if you follow the procedures it should be long story short I don't know whether I can feasibly recommend it to you but I do it.
+
+[35:25] So it's it's not FDA approved but should probably work. Yeah, yeah I mean I actually do that 'cause like a lot of times you know what'll happen is and and you know the like Harold McGee and Ruleman got into like a little bit of a thing about ruhlman saying he just leaves regular stocks out on and then just reheats them which is what everyone used to do in the old days. You know, they'd keep a soup going for a whole week. And I did that during the blackout here uh when we had Hurricane Sandy but um but you know that the uh me you know many times I will have the pressure cooker going and I don't want to you know it's late at n it's late at night I want to go to bed. I've made dinner and now I'm making a stock out with the bones that I had left over from the prep out at dinner and I'll leave it overnight and then put it in the fridge in the morning and I don't really feel bad about it.
+
+[36:08] Uh yeah because I I'm uh well hey I want to do exactly what you just described and also on Thanksgiving I mean you know I'm just running out of space for everything and if I could just run the last pressure cooker with the turkey stock and set it in the garage and forget about it until I need it again I mean that's that's just very helpful. Yeah I would not leave it forever. It's I wouldn't consider it 100% yeah I'm talking twenty four forty eight hours max just enough to get you know get it done and out of the way if I'm getting ready for a a a big family deal. Yeah and I'd say reheat it too. Oh oh yeah well uh reheating is pretty much the same with anything I would do with it would be going in something hot.
+
+[36:43] Like I I make grape gravy with a fairly dark uh butter and flour boo and you know that when the stock hits that gravy, it's uh when the stock hits that root it's about three hundred and fifty degrees or something ridiculous. Right, right, right. A and and and and and then you boil it from there. So I mean so so so reheating is definitively part of the program. Yeah, I mean I mean most things that are gonna develop would be heat labile anyway if you're gonna you're gonna reheat them.
+
+[37:09] I mean again, like I just feel very hesitant to say it's okay on the air and yet I do do it. Okay, well that's that's sometimes maybe it's as good as you get. Yeah, yeah. And well you got a second question you said? Uh second second stock question.
+
+[37:23] I've been run doing some double and even one triple extraction, which just came out fantastic. Um based on the method you described a month a month or two ago where you you know, just keep pulling, you know, you you run the pressure cooker, uh let the pressure come down, take one batch of bones out, put the next batch of bones in and run it again without ever cooling it off. Right. Um how many times can you do that before something weird happens? Jeez, I know I don't know.
+
+[37:50] I've never done more than three. Um but I figure there's gotta be a a diminishing marginal return. I think, you know, it's been years since I it's been years since I've done side by sides on that, uh or like or kept a little back and tasted it, but I bet you that you're not getting much after about about th two or three. Three uh three three on chicken bones, probably three. Uh but mean it really makes a fantastic stock, doesn't it?
+
+[38:14] I mean that triple stock is crazy. I made I did a triple extraction um on some beef bones for food here a while back and it was just amazing. Yeah, I mean that's r that it's like you know, people no one makes it anymore because you know, if you were actually gonna do it it's it's cr if A it's would be expensive in a restaurant setting, and B, it would take forever if you were doing it in in kind of a standard way, but you can do it so quick and just the depth of flavor on that stuff's nuts, right? Oh, it's I mean it's just it's just unbelievable. And also it's ad advantageous for me that the stronger I can make it, I can make soup and dilute and dilute it back out a little bit so it it it improves my storage efficiency since my freezer is permanently stuffed.
+
+[38:52] Yeah, right. I mean, I got that technique from uh James uh Peterson. Uh I forget which one of you know, he was, you know, one of my favorite cookbook writers back in the in the day. I guess he's still writing, but uh, you know, I think that's where I that's where I picked that one up like a long time ago. The the not from the pressure cooker, but just the idea of a triple stock in general, uh as opposed to as opposed to doing a lot of reductions, because he was one of the early people that I can remember saying that uh you know, he preferred uh, you know, th three like more heavy duty uh bone to water ratios rather than uh rather than you know making a weak stock and reducing it, which is what most people do, and I think it's not as good.
+
+[39:31] And you know, and he kind of railed against that uh, you know, a long time ago, and and I I kind of took that to heart. I think most people use too much water in their stocks, period. Well, when you well, when you're trying to make a living selling it, it's just a different scenario. I mean, I I don't really care whether my batch of stock costs twelve dollars or fourteen, but I mean if if you're in business, that can be if it's been making money and losing it. I think it's exactly right.
+
+[39:53] I think it's and but the funny thing is when people at people at home who can afford to do it that way, like they're emulating the restaurant practice, not necessarily best practice, you know. Well, it's just it it that's just because it's just the most common idea out there, but you've you certainly helped me out on it a bunch. Oh, well, thanks very much. Um and then completely different question. Um I absolutely love sweet potato fries.
+
+[40:19] My wife doesn't like the texture I get, and that they're just a little too limp. This is there some little magic powder from Modernist pantry that would at least help that problem. You know, I've never uh I've never had the luck on the surface of the sweet potato. Uh, you're talking about the surface or the interior? I've never had luck on the surface.
+
+[40:38] I've gotten the interior nice, but I've never had the luck on the surface. Well, I would I I I would try anything that even might get my wife to eat them because they're about a hundred times better for you than regular French fries in terms of vitamins, if not calories. Well, I you know, the you you could go the only way I've ever done it where I thought it was like really good, I cheated and I battered them. Okay. You know what I mean?
+
+[41:00] And then if you do like a like a light batter on them, you can get them crunchy as all get out and then have the sweet potato on the inside. So you don't so you're doing like egg white and cornstarch? Uh I know I didn't do I did uh I you know, I last time I did it, I did it in weight, like everyone's gonna hate me now. I did it in two thick of battery. Usually I only do one kind of batter, so and I'm not a fan of like really like kind of light stuff most of the time.
+
+[41:24] So I do what I do for fried chicken, which is like a flour-based, like, you know, pretty hardcore, crunchy uh flour and buttermilk. Yeah, yeah. Yeah. Uh but, you know, I'm not saying you should do that. I'm just saying that, you know, that's that's what I do.
+
+[41:38] But some sort of whatever your favorite crispy coating is. I'm not a fan. I'm again I'm gonna get I'm gonna get nuked on this. I'm not a fan of tempura batters. I think that I've had what is supposed to be very good tempura that other people say was good, and to me, it's not as I understand that everyone loves it.
+
+[41:54] It's just not what I love. Do you know what I mean? Uh yeah, I mean you know, sometimes you just like something or don't. That's right. I mean, I I prefer a harder, uh harder uh texture, and I think tempura also goes off too quickly, especially on something high moisture like a sweet potato fry.
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+[42:09] Listen, one of the problems with sweet potato fries is is i i it's virtually impossible with that high sugar content to get that crunchy kind of coating because you're not lacquering it. Like when people make sweet French fries that are like like shatter on the outside, sometimes they're sweet and they but they're almost like lacquered from the outside. But it's it's so hard because of the way moisture absorption goes into the crust to get that crust to stay normal on just a sweet potato fry. I would love to hear somebody else's technique of doing it, but I bet you could do it with just uh you know a fairly good uh starch dusting, like maybe Chris Coat or something like that without going full batter. All right, Scott uh Chris Coat, it's called.
+
+[42:43] Yeah, crisp coat. You could give that a try. I mean, hopefully someone will tweet me into the uh my Twitter account and say what they do to make their uh sweet potato fries crunchy. But I'm not looking a lot of people out there who like sweet potato fries, they like them even though they're not crunchy, but it sounds like your you know your wife wants them crunchy, right? Well, yeah, yeah, she's just she's just very specific about texture of a lot of things, and sweet potato fries just don't work for her.
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+[43:07] Yeah, yeah. At least I haven't I'm having trouble making one that works for her. Yeah, I'm sure you'll get it. I mean, like just meaning like, yeah, I mean, I I like 'em, but uh you know, I fry them hard just the same way that I do deep fried okra, which is pretty hard crust. So, you know, but you have to like that sort of thing.
+
+[43:21] Oh, I mean, I I dislike fried food, unfortunately. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Well, you know, fried fried frying is a good way of cooking. That's the way it should be. Oh.
+
+[43:29] But anyway. Uh but yeah, those are those are my three for the day. All right, well, listen, tweet us in and uh let us know how it worked out, alrighty? Thank you very much. All right, thanks.
+
+[43:38] Uh Ken uh Kenningberg wrote in uh basically calling us uh calling not not you because cut me, Wussy said, Hi Nastasha Dave, enjoyed the Thanksgiving show. Uh Dave is cutting corny's corners with his turkey, it seems to me. If uh mom and stepdad are docs, then Dave has access to equipment. My suggestion boning the turkey laparoscopically. Uh like like I hate like uh they don't let me my mom wouldn't even give me a prescription for quinine to make drinks, so I have to pay like retail price for my quinine sulfate.
+
+[44:05] So, you know, it's they don't they don't steal stuff. They're too honest, these guys. Anyway, uh I was in New York City and planned to have a drink at Booker and Dax uh and be an audience at one of your show, but instead found myself holed up in Park Slope for the duration of Hurricane Sandy. Another time. Happy Thanksgiving, Kang Ingber.
+
+[44:18] Uh so by the way, the turkey was delicious, delicious. Did I talk about this already? Have we already had a show since Thanksgiving? Turkey was really good. Uh it was, I think the best no-tech turkey I've ever done.
+
+[44:30] But and and anyone can do it. So, like to recap what I did, uh took the turkey, it was a 23-pound turkey. I inside out boned it. So I ripped all of the uh I ripped all the bones out from inside without cutting the skin in any way. Uh then uh I had my mom make oh, and then I brined it.
+
+[44:46] Now, one of the advantages of boning it before you brine it is that you can fold the turkey up into a small little package and put it even a 23-pound per uh turkey in a fairly small amount of brine. So I put that in a brine uh for a couple of hours, you know. My typical brine, which is uh no measurement, it's make it taste salty like the ocean, and then add enough sugar until you can just barely taste the sweetness. Uh uh my mom started making the stuffing. She put the stuffing into the oven, covered so it wouldn't lose its moisture.
+
+[45:12] We pull uh pulled the turkey out after a little bit, let it dry, form a pellicle on the skin so that it was nice and tacky, you know, got the inside all rinsed out. And remember, when I inside out boned it, what I took out all of the internal bones and I took out the thigh bone on both sides. I left the the last arm bone in and I left the wing joint or last leg bone in, rather, uh, the drumstick bone, and I left the wing bones in for a little bit of structure. Uh, then I took the stuffing out uh when it was like scalding hot, like you know, of the full oven temperature, and then jammed the first thing I jammed was I jammed it into the thigh so it started cooking the thighs, right? Uh and now we're cooking from the inside out, and then jammed it in, made it look like a turkey again.
+
+[45:54] Uh, and now the advantage of the hot stuffing is I'm not gonna poison anyone, and it's gonna speed the cooking and it's gonna cook the parts that I boned out, like the thigh very quickly in the same fashion that it would the other breast meat because it's getting hot stuff in contact where you wouldn't normally get it right away. Threw the whole thing into a 450-degree oven, I think, or 400 or something, for like an hour and a half, two hours. Well, uh butter and salt on the thing. Thing was good turkey. Good turkey.
+
+[46:17] Anyway, so Ken, even though I was cutting uh corners, uh, it was uh good turkey. Uh and I think I might do it again that way. It's so much easier than the than the aluminum uh than the aluminum skeleton. Although Nastasha likes to see me. And more traditional.
+
+[46:33] Yeah, well, kinda, yeah, I guess it is more traditional. I guess anything's more traditional than what I was doing. And you all the stuffing has that awesome flavor from being in the turkey. And well, all inside out boning also has the advantage, which everyone should take advantage of, of now you have all the bones, which while it's while it's uh what's the word I'm looking for? Brining and cooking, you can make a turkey stock right away.
+
+[46:53] So then you can get your gravy base done, and then you can take and deglaze the uh pan that the turkey comes in. Remember, like everyone, I hate I hate it when I see a turkey in a roasting pan and the sides of the pan are coming up over the side of the turkey, and I know that the underside of that turkey is that like nasty blonde, like flabby blah. You know what I'm talking about, Stas? Yes. Do you hate that?
+
+[47:16] I do. I lift lift your turkey up, people. Lift up, be proud of your turkey. Lift it above the the rim of the pan. Anyway, uh, and so we got the gravy, and the gravy was done, good, bueno, bueno.
+
+[47:27] So it's uh it's all around uh a good uh a good a good thing. It's all good. Um so uh um on pressure cookers again. Uh Tom Fisher wrote in and said, Hope you enjoyed your Thanksgivings. I'm looking into getting a Coon Recon pressure cooker and was surprised at the number of sizes available and the small difference in price.
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+[47:42] Uh is there any reason not to just buy the eight and a half quart stock pop but instead go with the smaller units. We went over that last week. Uh, you know, a similar thing. I don't I don't think it was Tom, though. Uh no, just get the eight and a half quart.
+
+[47:52] It's good. Uh see how you like that, Stas for a short freaking answer. You like that? You're still going on though. What do you mean?
+
+[47:59] What do you mean? Yeah, of course I'm still talking. What? Go to the next question. Okay.
+
+[48:04] Uh okay, Marty from Eagle Rock writes in, Dave et al. First, I think Katamaro Tempuro, which is like an ongoing thing we're talking about, the thing that solidifies oil uh in Japan. Uh Ketamara Temputo is uh I don't know how you actually pronounce it. Is derived from castor oil. I think that's how you pronounce it though, because it's like temputo or like tempura.
+
+[48:20] Anyway, uh at least that's what the ingredients page from S. C. Johnson's translates to. Uh and then there's the Thai Castor Oil Group whose primary product is cooking oil solidifier. The internet does not lie.
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+[48:30] Um I've been looking up uh castor oil and I'm trying to figure out what the heck is in this stuff. Uh and I got another person saying castor oil in on my Twitter account. Uh I think it was uh Clef's. Uh anyway, so the um the thing is I still can't figure out what the hell it is. So if you take castor oil, uh it's like semi food gray, but tastes bad.
+
+[48:51] It comes from the castor plant, which if you don't process it right can poison you with ricin, which is like a toxin anyway. But the uh if you hydrogenate it, it becomes a uh car um castor wax, and castor wax has a very high melting point, and I think that it you can use it's a castor wax that's a solidifier for the oil because you do it in hot and then when it sets, it sets solid. It's used to harden um uh underarm deodorant yeah so it's like hard like a like a carnual wax but I can't really figure out what's going on but anyway uh Marty's uh second question is are there any well is first question second comment are there any consumer level reusable products out there for low temperature cooking whenever I cook stuff I always end up with a pile of plastic freezer bags I'd love to experiment more but my inner hippie keeps chastising me so I don't you know this is really an issue there are some bags out there um and you can reuse them but it's just so gross that no one does it you know what I mean it's just it's just nasty uh I you know I'd like to say that there's some sort of like you know paper like on papyotte thing that you could do uh but I just don't know that it's the case and like they the bags just tend to degrade over time. I haven't used any of the thicker uh there there are a couple people out there who are making very thick bags that are the equivalent of uh you remember those Nastash remember those pencil cases you get when you're a kid those like yeah they're made that were made out of vinyl these aren't made out of vinyl because that's gross but I I haven't had had time to really really look into them but it's it's really something I'd like to put out to anyone who's listening to the show to think about maybe some alternative like that that doesn't require a constant source of new bags. I mean obviously there is cooking in in broth and cooking in stock low temperature by using uh the the actual circulator to circulate the products there's cooking in jars but it's just not it's not the same you could notice there's lots of things you can do but it's just not the exact same thing.
+
+[50:39] Like you can pack a jar 100% full with product screw it down and throw it into a bath and it'll work but it's not the same, it's just not the same as doing it in in a bag. You know what I mean? I I don't know of a good solution, but I would love to hear uh anyone's uh good solution. By the way, uh castor bean oil, hydrogenate castor oil not only used a solidify, but another castor uh oil product. Zinc uh ricinulate is the is this is the anti stink in uh antiperspirants.
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+[51:08] Oh I don't know why it absorbs uh it absorbs the stink, but apparently apparently it does. Um, are we gonna get kicked off the air so now? Oh my god, and I have so many questions. I have not gotten to. Uh Charlie Chang, I know I have some questions on Twitter.
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+[51:23] I'm gonna have to get those next time, I guess. Uh Joel, uh, did we did not get a text back from McGee, right? Uh let me check. See if we got a text back from Harold. If we got a text back from Harold, then uh we'll run an extra 30 seconds or something.
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+[51:36] Do we get one? Anyway. Um I also have a question that I'd like to spend more time on from Stan Below, so we'll get that next time, or maybe get it on uh the Twitter uh all about uh different kind of gelling compounds and and uh interested in making vegetarian gummy bears using gel and there actually is a brand new patent on that. We'll have to get into that next time. Uh one thing I will shout out, I was you know, I'm constantly amazed at the amazing information that's available on the FAO's website, which is the Food and Agricultural Organization of the UN.
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+[52:07] And they have so many crazy publications out there on like how to grow shrimp in Thailand. Like this is crazy. You can go on there and I I just I spent probably I don't know, stupidly, probably spent two and a half hours last night when I should have been sleeping reading like the FAO's documents on seaweed production. It's not even that it's like super scintillating, you know, it's not like anyone else here would like be like, oh boom, it's awesome. But I like I can't help free information like that.
+
+[52:33] You know what I mean? I know, dude. Isn't that weird? Anyway, uh, so we did not get it in, right? Nope, no answer.
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+[52:40] Yeah, no answer from the McGee. All right, he's sleeping. I know. The poor guy's sleeping, he's in uh, what's it called? He's in uh the California.
+
+[52:47] Uh so uh Joel wrote in and said, uh just listen to the podcast. You made my uh effing holiday. Thanks for playing my song. Ever since I picked up a copy of On Food and Cooking nine years ago, I become obsessed with the reasoning for everything I do in the kitchen. As a cook, I would uh tick off my chefs because I'd explain why their white chocolate uh ganache wasn't working, or how starch types differ in short grain rice and uh works better in pudding because they don't retrograde like long-grain rice does.
+
+[53:11] Well, like, you know, most long grain, obviously tie black sticky is uh is uh anyway, whatever. Uh now running a kitchen myself, I make sure that all my cooks question everything they do. I teach methods, not recipes. I promote discovery, not uh uh conservative French technique, although I do like that stuff. I mean, when I went to Danielle a bunch of years ago and they presented me with like the whole fish and crust, even though it's overcooked, I was like, I love it.
+
+[53:31] I just uh because I love I mean it's you know it felt like you know, felt like old school anyway. Uh we listened to the podcast during prep. Crew gets into it. Uh we have one caller. HRN is seriously awesome, cooking issues awesome.
+
+[53:41] Keep it up, Joel. Thank you, Joel. Uh we got a caller, caller, you're on the air. Dave Arnold. What's up?
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+[53:47] This is Jeremiah Bullfrog, how are you, sir? Um, I'm doing awesome. How you how's Miami? Good, man. Nice.
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+[53:53] Hot hot and sunny, like we like it. I've got a burning question for you. All right, what's up? Um trying to uh emulsify powdered spices into brine. Right.
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+[54:08] Is there a trick to uh getting it keeping it from separating? Uh okay. Like how thick is the brine allowed to be? I mean, the thing is I don't know that it's gonna. I mean, you could do like the typical th thing.
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+[54:22] I mean, emulsif, you're not really emulsifying the spice, you're you're actually stabilizing it. So like the classic thing would be to hit it with some Xanthan, but then it's gonna be kind of snotty. You know what I mean? Right. Think like if we're doing pickled cauliflower.
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+[54:29] Right. Like half sour style in like a five percent brine. Oh, brine, not like brine, brine like serving brine. I got you. Uh yeah.
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+[54:44] So I mean you could do a like a gel like a light gel-an fluid gel, depending on the salt level. The problem with brine's is the salt level is so high, like I've had no luck making fluid gels with kimchi liquid because it's just it's just too it's just too strong. You know what I mean? They so it might not be able to do like gel and whereas xanthan would work in something like that, which is why they do it in uh in salad dressing, but like really freaking light amount of xanthan. I've done a bunch of tests with just very, very, very light amount of xanthan.
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+[55:14] Uh, you know, like less than a quarter of a percent or add a quarter, you know, one quarter, one percent or less, less. Right. So break out the uh break out the drug dealer scale and and just keep it real light? Yeah, and let it hydrate for a good like twenty, thirty minutes before you uh make uh add or de you know, add anything more to it so that you make sure it's in you wanna get there's a there's a point at which you can stop it from settling for let's say like thirty minutes. You know what I mean?
+
+[55:42] So which is more than enough for service. You know, are you doing it for a shelf or for service? Um, I mean we're gonna put it up as a preserve and then you know, seven to ten days pull it out and use it. Right. So but then like just like a couple of quick like back and forth and it'll it'll come back.
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+[55:57] Do you know what I mean? Right. You think I should hit it in the um in the vita prep? Yeah, you should definitely hit it in the vitaprep, and you should do it if i uh are they la are they lactic fermented things or are they um Yeah, super super lactic. Oh, you see, you might have problems because uh like some lactic acid bacteria can ferment xanthan, but I don't know.
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+[56:14] Uh you might have to add it afterwards, like to the brine. I might have to think about it. I've never tried to stabilize a uh like a pickle brine. Uh I mean salad dressings I've done all day every day, and the brine because I don't have to think about it. But I would try it like a low I would try a low amount of xanthan.
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+[56:37] I would pull the brine out, uh, add the xanthan to it, and then add the brine back and stir it rather than doing it beforehand because once it's really fermented out, it's not going to keep fermenting because they've you know that they've done their best and the acidity is already low, so it's not going to get a lot more you know sour, especially if it's already gone. And so then uh I think the Xanthan will be okay at that point. Whereas if you do it earlier, you you might run into I don't know if those bacteria eat Xanthan, but I know some do. Right. Um also on the same token, we're doing um we're doing pressed juices, and I was wondering what are like some commercial tricks to keep the juice from you know separating when we bottle it up.
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+[57:15] Uh oh, you because you want it to be you want it to stay whole again, like those guys usually add some form of pectin. So uh, you know, to to things like that to stabilize it. Um you can add other things, but I think they usually use some form of pectin to stabilize it. Like they add like a functionalized pectin. I I don't have the pectin stuff in my head.
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+[57:34] Piper does. Shoot me a like shoot uh shoot it to the to the cooking issues Twitter and I'll force Piper to write down what it is that you're supposed to use. Cool. And then do you think like um ultra s ultrasonic homogenizer would be cool for that too? I don't know, man.
+
+[57:48] Because the thing about it is is that, like, yeah, that'll that'll make things last longer, but break by breaking down the particles, but they they're not so good at breaking down like certain solid sizes, so it depends on what's floating in there. Like I've like I've had good luck doing emulsions with that, like making milks with it, uh, like you know, like duck fat into duck stock and making like a milky duck thing, but I haven't had uh a lot of luck just like making a juice finer. Do you know what I mean? But I mean your results may vary. Like everything else, like when you're experimenting with a zillion things, like you if you have like early success with one thing, or if you really love something, then you keep working at it till you get it right, and if you don't, you just don't follow down that line.
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+[58:25] So, like I never got into like, you know, hitting seawater with my ultrasonic homogenizer to see what happened, you know what I mean, or or anything like that. Right. And I remain unconvinced. Do you have one? No, I don't, but um, you know, give me a reason to go get one and well next next time you're in the city, stop by to uh stop by and uh I'll let you uh use mine, see what you think about it.
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+[58:45] Awesome. Thank you, Dave Arnold. All right, brother. Um, on the way out, I got one more thing on the way out. Don't you want me to don't you want me to read from uh Britt Adams?
+
+[58:54] I would, but it's so good. Jack, do I got like two minutes? Do I got two minutes? Do it, do it, do it. Do it, dude.
+
+[58:58] Okay. Uh listen, Brett, like I'm gonna answer your question uh next week on spices and uh you know why you uh you dry roast spices because it requires a longer answer. But I'm gonna read the other thing you said about how like sometimes uh this makes us happy. This is feedback that I like. I had both a question for the radio show uh and a quick story to recount that all of you, specifically Dave may appreciate.
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+[59:19] Regarding the latter, I first became aware of Dave and cooking issues a few years ago when I was searching online for further information on a tortilla making that wasn't fully covered in a Diana Kennedy cookbook, who's a great cookbook writer. Uh uh, I stumbled on Dave's blog uh post on nickstamalization, learned a ton, and have been a regular listener ever since. Thank you. And I've had a few delicious cocktails of Booker and Dax last time I was in New York. One particular part of the post that stood out to me was how the process of nickstamalization releases bound niacin in mature corn.
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+[59:44] Uh, which is why when Europeans took it but didn't take over the Nixomalization, they got Pilagra. Uh anyway. Um, okay. I later recounted this to my roommate who is both a nurse and an avid home cook. L uh this last summer, um, this roommate spent three months at a refugee camp in South Sudan volunteering for Doctors Without Borders.
+
+[1:00:01] One day he was eating lunch with the man in the charge of the food rations for the camp of fifty thousand plus people, and the rations guy brought up that they were likely going to have to switch the rations from sorghum, which you know I've never experimented with a lot. Anyway, to May's. Uh my roommate, remembering what I had told him, asked if he had heard of nixtimalization, specifically about its ability to r uh release digestible niacin, which, as I'm sure you can guess, is a big deal in a refugee camp. The director had never heard of it but was intrigued, went away to do some research, and later told my roommate that they had been uh begun learning to nixtimalize the corn for the rations. My roommate left shortly thereafter, so I have no idea if the full switch to maze was made, but I think it's pretty cool that your research in a kitchen in New York, uh, through somewhat random events could possibly have a very significant uh positive impact on the other side of the world.
+
+[1:00:43] Thought you'd like to hear that. I do like to hear that, uh, Brett, but in fact, uh it's your uh it's your paying attention to it. Uh I paid attention to it when someone else said it, and you paid attention to it when I said it, so it's it's you paying attention to it and remembering it, and that's how all good things are learned and all good things are transmitted by people paying attention, tucking away information and tastes in their head, and making the world a better place. Cooking issues. I'll see you in the special shout out to Plexophonic, whose submitted theme song is not able to be used for legal reasons.
+
+[1:01:21] This is I'll see you in My Dreams by Plexiphonic. You've been listening to Cooking Issues. Still I feel the thrill of your job. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[1:01:40] You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's episode has been brought to you by Robert's, located at 261 Moore Street in beautiful Bushwick, Brooklyn. For more information, visit www.rebertispizza.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Cooking issues!
+
+[1:00] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you live every Tuesday from 12 to 1245 on the Heritage Radio Network in the back of Roberta's Pizza Willia in Bushwick, Brooklyn. Calling your questions live to 7184972128. That's 7184972128. Joined as usual with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez.
+
+[1:18] Uh and uh we're jackless today, right, Joe? He's in Puerto Rico. Jackson, Puerto Rico? What's he doing in Puerto Rico? Vacation.
+
+[1:24] Hanging out with his dad. Really? Yeah, right? Yeah? What we like just like me, do they have like family there?
+
+[1:29] Are they just hanging in Puerto Rico? Um, apparently Jack took the week off and then his dad's like, just come to Puerto Rico with me. Sounds a little fishy. Yeah. Sounds like yeah, you know.
+
+[1:38] Well anyway, I hope they bring back some good rum. I like Puerto Rican rum. You like Puerto Rican rum, Joe? You like Puerto Rican rum? Oh definitely.
+
+[1:44] Yeah. Nastasha doesn't care because she's not listening, but uh I'm actually trying to help Joe out, so Snippiness hear this hear the snippiness people. This is what I deal with on a on a regular basis. Like constant undercurrents of uh snippiness. Constant undercurrents of snippiness.
+
+[1:58] Do you like Puerto Rican rum? Yes. Yeah? Okay. Can you name a Puerto Rican rum?
+
+[2:03] No. Okay. Ronabuelo. Okay. Uh no, wait, no.
+
+[2:06] Uh wait, it's Ronabuelo. Is that the Puerto Rican one? Now I gotta look it up. Now I've gotten all confused. By the way, a horrifying news.
+
+[2:13] I was researching today, champagne consumption down worldwide 5% this year so far. Can you believe that? That is crazy. I mean, like I figure Nastasha and I have made up for at least that 5% drop, just us, just us alone. I mean, the champagne, I mean, not that the champagne industry needs a push.
+
+[2:29] Do you know the French drink half of the champagne in the world? Is that I'm told? Wow. I mean, I mean, it's from there. I mean, it's makes sense.
+
+[2:34] I bet you we drink well over half the world, you know, Zinfandel stuff. Yeah. You know? And I'm not just talking like white, I'm talking real Zinfandel. I bet you we drink well, well over half.
+
+[2:43] You go there, the French should have no idea what you're talking about when you mention Zimfidel. At least they used to. I haven't been to France in a number of years. But anyway, my point is is that champagne is one of the few drinks. This is my push for champagne.
+
+[2:52] Uh this show's not brought to you by champagne, is it, Joe? Who's bringing this show to us today? That would be Roberta's Pizza. Roberta's Pizzeria is bringing us the show today? They sure are.
+
+[3:02] And Roberta's served champagne, do they not? Yeah, I believe so. I think we got a bottle of Prosecco for the 100th episode, right? Alright, so yes. No.
+
+[3:10] Yeah, we might have. I look, I like Prosecco fine, but I love champagne. I love champagne, right? Any sort of sparkling wine. Uh, this is the kind of the one of the very few things that Nastasha and I can uh agree on is uh love of sparkling wines.
+
+[3:22] But uh maybe this show is part in part brought to you by champagne since they sell Roberta's pizzeria and champagne. Go drink it. It's one of the few drinks that is uh kind of always uh always apropos, right? Right. You know, graduation, what do you want?
+
+[3:35] Champagne. Like around dinner time? Champagne. What about after dinner? Champagne.
+
+[3:39] At a brunch? Champagne. Hmm. Cock cocktail thing after work? At your bar, champagne.
+
+[3:45] Any bar really, right? Yeah. Champagne. It's not a crack against uh you know our cocktails, it's just you'd rather just have have have the champagne. Uh a sad occasion you need cheering up.
+
+[3:54] Champagne. Yeah. So very few uh situations where champagne is not. See, people make a mistake and they only drink it around the New Year's time, as though you need to be celebrating something to drink champagne. And that's just not the case.
+
+[4:06] Champagne is always delicious. There are very few things I don't like. I like look, I will not have champagne with my bagels and locks. It's disgusting. I do not like champagne with uh cured cured meats.
+
+[4:17] In fact, uh I love them both quite dearly. They're two of the things that are closest to my heart. But I all you need is a little bite of bread in between, and you're okay. So you uh well, what happens is someone serves me a glass of champagne and a platter of cured meats. Typically, what I will do is I will take a couple sips of the champagne.
+
+[4:33] I will then have a bite of bread, I will then eat the entirety of the platter of cured meats in, you know, depending on the size. I can I can eat upwards of uh a quarter of a pound of prosciutto every two minutes. In that range, right? Finish it, have a couple of bites of bread, and then go back to the champagne. I think that's the way you should do it.
+
+[4:52] But uh, this is not only champagne. Uh I also really enjoy a good kava. Do you like kava? Uh huh. I like kava kava is actually my when I buy, I buy kava because it's actually inexpensive.
+
+[5:01] But if somebody else is buying, I drink champagne. Yes. Actually, I owe Nustacha bottle of champagne. No, just good wine, I think. Well, the champagne's good.
+
+[5:09] You don't like champagne, you want a red wine instead? No. No, champagne would be good. Well, what was it? Because uh you didn't know this.
+
+[5:15] You thought the singer of Cat in the in the cradle was Cat Stevens. And it's not, it's some other guy. Yeah. Anyway, okay. Who was it?
+
+[5:22] I can't remember. Somebody look it up. Okay. Uh uh Josh uh Whitlam writes in from Somerset. By the way, Somerset land of apple cider and cheddar.
+
+[5:31] Do you know that? Land of Apple Cider and Cheddar? Anyway. Uh it's kind of like where uh where all that comes from. Anyway, uh he writes in, it's the first comment we've gotten from the UK on liquid on the liquid nitrogen, the unfortunate thing happened with liquid nitrogen with uh uh the teenager who lost her stomach.
+
+[5:45] Anyway, uh maybe something more to discuss on the next show. I know Dave is uh talked about it on the last one. Crazy what one does uh we say, uh what does one do to stop uh party or group of people who clearly know nothing about uh the stuff they are trying to ban? Uh just talking about the uh liquid nitrogen attempted ban on liquid nitrogen. Um people are talking about putting a ban on something that resulted in a horrific accident once.
+
+[6:04] If they're so worried about it, then they should surely take the initial uh the surely best initial steps would be to install a certification system that qualifies the staff to use LN just like food safety, etcetera. The fault is clearly with the bar uh uh and a lack of incorrect training uh about LN, and I'm sure if they uh they know it and that we do everything to prevent it, a repeat of that accident in the future. Why isn't there a ban on cigarettes? The dangers are clearly spelled out to us that we still make our own choice about whether to smoke it or not. Rant over, love the show, Josh Whitlam Somerset UK.
+
+[6:28] Okay, well the what Josh, I agree with you i in in the vast majority of it, except for this one thing. And the big issue here, and this is the reason why uh this this incident in uh in the UK where this uh teenager lost her stomach after consuming liquid nitrogen, which is ridiculous. No one should ever serve liquid nitrogen to someone, but the the the difference between that and the incident that happened in Germany uh several years ago where a cook brought home liquid nitrogen and blew themselves to pieces, uh, you know, blew blew his hands off and and damaged his leg and was put in a coma and so is that uh in this case the uh accident happened to a customer, and the customer wasn't assuming, wasn't necessarily assuming any extra risks, unlike uh unlike cigarettes. Now, um, as far as the actual practitioners are concerned, assuming that they know all the risks, then I think you're absolutely right in your in your point. But the the issue is it is true, you should you should always take the utmost care to ensure that your customers are not exposed to any extra risks that they don't know about, right?
+
+[7:26] I mean, and so that's that's always the argument of why you need to put a label on the bottom of your menu that you're consuming something that's raw or undercooked. It's only if they don't have an expectation of uh uh of of otherness. So when you go to a sushi restaurant, right, it's assumed you're eating raw fish and that you realize that there's certain inherent dangers, or that if you order a steak rare that there are certain inherent dangers, although not much. Uh but anyway, and so the the question is here is it is the customer taking on a risk of which they uh aren't aware. But in the large part I agree with you.
+
+[7:56] Okay. Uh and Kang Ingber, longtime listener, friend of the show, uh wrote in and said he enjoyed uh the CNN broadcast. Thank you. I think they're gonna re-air that guy uh that re-air that broadcast uh sometime uh right before right before the Christmas. Right before the Christmas, said I was serious and fun in the right proportion.
+
+[8:13] I usually have it exactly exactly opposite. I'm usually ridiculous and serious in the exact opposite proportion of what's uh of what's uh reasonable. Okay. Uh number three, Ryan Santos wrote in and said an industry friend of mine just got an ultra low freezer. It currently runs around minus 118 degrees Fahrenheit.
+
+[8:31] I've never had something like this at my disposal. I'm curious if there are any cool techniques or applications with it. Thanks, Ryan. Okay, uh, I did a little uh conversion there, and minus 118 degrees Fahrenheit is roughly uh negative 83 Celsius. Now, what you're looking at here is you're in the range of an ultra-low freezer or a super freezer.
+
+[8:51] And um, here's the big here's the big deal. Now, the the these freezers, which are used in labs, but also in the storage of meats, uh store something at at what I've heard in the industry called below the eutectic point or below the glass transition uh temperature of the foods that are involved. Uh now let me explain what that means. So, first of all, you have to get in in your mind there's two there's two separate things that happen when something is freezing, right? One are two separate things you have to worry about.
+
+[9:17] One is the storage temperature at which you're keeping an item, right? And the other is the rate at which something freezes. Now, these ultra-low uh temperature freezers don't necessarily freeze things that much faster than uh you could freeze it using uh a regular freezer, right? For fast freezing, you need a blast freezer or a fluid bed freezer or a merging directly in a cryogenic liquid like liquid nitrogen or something of this nature. Right now, now the re the reason that's important is is that if you freeze something slowly, right, as you're freezing, large ice crystals grow.
+
+[9:52] Large ice crystals themselves can be damaging. So you have very uh small number of ice crystal nucleation sites, and they form relatively small number of relatively large ice crystals. More importantly, those ice crystals are being formed uh by water leaving, typically, leaving the cell matrix of the food that you're freezing, dehydrating the cells just like you were dehydrating them, and forming crystals in between the cell bat in between the cells of the meat. So you're increasing the amount of moisture that's it's in between the cells, you're dehydrating the cells, concentrating uh bad things that can go on, and causing large crystals that can puncture the cell membrane, which all means that when it thaws, it will leak out, uh it will leak out its fluids and you'll have drip loss and the normal things that you associate with damage due to slow freezing. If you freeze extremely rapidly, one you get small ice crystals, you get a bunch of ice crystals, and if you freeze quickly enough, you can get ice crystals on the insides of the cells.
+
+[10:48] And so you don't have as much uh dehydration of the cells, and the structure of the meat or or produce remains intact. And so that's what fast freezing can do for you. Now, here's the other thing. A lot of times people quote the freezing temperature of a food. Food doesn't in fact have a one single freezing temperature.
+
+[11:08] What happens is as you start approaching the initial freezing point of a food, water will start to pure water, will start to crystallize in the thing. At a certain point, uh you're gonna reach uh a situation where let's say you have let's let's make this very simple. Let's just say we have salt and water. All right, so it's not food anymore, it's salt and water. If you have just salt, sodium uh chloride, and water, what happens is as you chill it, uh their ice crystals will start to form, and as ice crystals form, what you're left with is more concentrated salt water solution.
+
+[11:38] That concentrated salt water solution has a lower freezing point. So the temperature goes down a little more, and then you have an even more concentrated, and it goes down and down and down until you reach the point where salt can no longer become more concentrated in the liquid. You've reached what's called the eutectic point. It's a point at which uh the that temperature is the lowest that that system can get and still have them remain together. At which point you freeze out solid water and uh sodium chloride crystals, right?
+
+[12:05] So it's frozen out solid. That's the eutectic point. In real food, there are a bunch of little eutectic points where things freeze out, right? Once you get below and any point during that freezing curve, there's still some liquid water in there, right? And what that means is that as temperature fluctuates in a freezer, that liquid water will melt and recrystallize as the temperature fluctuates, and so ice crystals will tend to grow over time and make your food crappier over time.
+
+[12:29] So there's quality loss there. Additionally, that water that's in there is super concentrated with regard to enzymes, acids, salts, and all those things that can carry on chemical reactions. So even though the temperature is a lot lower, so the chemical reaction rates are a lot slower, the concentrations are increased a huge amount, and so awful reactions can take place in your freezer. Once you get below the eutectic point of the last thing that's gonna freeze out, there's still actually what's called bound unfreezeable water. And that unfreezeable water is the unfreezable water that's next to things like hydrocolloids or next to things like protein.
+
+[13:08] And uh the reaction between the uh water molecules that are right at the surface of those things and those molecules themselves prevent the water from actually becoming a part of the crystal ice lattice that's around them, and so you have unfrozen water even below the last eutectic point, right? So the next thing you hit there is called the glass phase. And when you hit the glass phase, which is that low temperature there, everything stops moving around, basically. I mean it moves, it bounces from a thermal standpoint, like the molecules are moving around. But the water molecules stop moving physically and stop undergoing chemical reactions.
+
+[13:40] For all intents and purposes, at that point, the product is stable. Enzymatic reactions are stopped. Oxidation reactions are stopped. All the reactions in it that are uh related to food quality stop. Ice crystal growth and uh uh and remelting and changing stop.
+
+[13:56] So once you freeze something fast and accurately using a different technique other than that low temperature freezer, you put it in that low temperature freezer, and it stays good almost indefinitely. Like it basically doesn't move in quality. And Mark Ladner at Del Posto has one, he freaking loves it. He loves it. He originally got it, I think, because uh they were buying super frozen tuna.
+
+[14:15] It's called super frozen. They were buying super frozen tuna, and that stuff stayed like super primo uh in there. I mean, like no oxidation, no nothing. It was just beautiful, beautiful stuff. Uh, and so he used it for that, but he's also used it for uh to store really, really fragile, I think things like mushrooms, I think things like truffles in a much better state than they could be uh stored any other way.
+
+[14:36] So it's an awesome find. Uh and it's one of those things that I wish uh I had. Uh Harold's on the phone. Okay, so listen, Joel, we have calling in for you to read an excerpt on the Myard reactions from his most important book on food and cooking, live from California, Harold McGee. Hey Dave.
+
+[15:00] Hey, how are you? Hi, Harold. So uh so this was a specific request. The person, uh Joel, who wrote uh one of our theme songs that we use here on the show as a thank you for writing the theme song, wanted you to come on air live and read a section from on food and cooking. The Myard reactions on Myard Reactions, yes.
+
+[15:19] So you uh you prepared to do this? I am I have a question though, because uh that paragraph does refer to the previous paragraph on caramelization. Should I just allude caramelization or should I start there? Hmm. Hmm.
+
+[15:36] The more the better. Yeah, the more the better, I think. I think just go for it. This is by the way, the first reading we've ever had on so you know give it some feeling, Harold. This is like our first reading ever.
+
+[15:46] I'm very excited. Well, you know, it's a first for me, too, so I'm I'm a little nervous. I'm not sure I'm gonna do this. I'll I'll give it a shot. All right, beautiful.
+
+[15:56] All right. Caramelization. The simplest browning reaction is the caramelization of sugar, and it's not simple at all. When we heat plain table sugar, essentially just molecules of sucrose, it first melts into a thick syrup, then slowly changes color, becoming light yellow and progressively deepening to a dark brown. At the same time, its flavor, initially sweet and odorless, develops acidity, some bitterness, and a rich aroma.
+
+[16:29] The chemical reactions involved in this transformation are many, and they result in the formation of hundreds of different reaction products, among them sapporganic acids, sweet and bitter derivatives, many fragrant volatile molecules, and brown colored polymers. It's a remarkable change and a fortunate one to the pleasures of many candies and other sweets. Even more fortunate and complex are the reactions responsible for the cook and flavor of bread crusts, chocolate, coffee beans, dark beers, and roasted meat. All foods that are not primarily sugar. These are the Maillard reactions after Louis Camille Maillard, a phonemic who discovered and described them around 1910.
+
+[17:22] The sequence begins with the reaction of a carbomolecule and an amino acid. An unstable intermediate structure is formed, and this then undergoes further changes, producing hundreds of different byproducts. Again, a brown coloration and full intense flavor result. MIARD reactions are more complex and meaty than caramelized flavors because the involvement of the amino acids adds nitrogen and sulfur atoms to the mix of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen and produces new families of molecules and new aromatic dimensions. Hell yeah.
+
+[18:04] Yeah. Yeah. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.
+
+[18:11] Nice. How are you doing over there, Hurl? I hear you're coming to the Museum of Food and Drink Fundraiser. Yes, yeah. I'm gonna fly out to the East Coast this coming weekend and we'll be sticking around for about 10 days.
+
+[18:25] So yeah, really glad about that timing. Actually, it's not a fundraiser, I'm being correct. It's it's just a thank you for people that already signed up for membership, but or who have been involved in the past. We're excited. So wait, can you what do you have a second?
+
+[18:36] You want to talk about this recent stuff on uh on cooking uh sugar crystals? Or do you have a second or no? Uh I've got a couple of minutes, yeah. Yeah. So actually the the passage I just read about caramelization uh has been somewhat superseded.
+
+[18:54] Uh because in that paragraph I say, you know, when when you make caramel, what you do is you heat uh sucrose crystals, which are solid until they melt, and then uh the melted sugars uh start to undergo these other reactions which turn them brown and um develop other flavors and so on. And that's that's still basically true. But uh very interestingly, uh I think it was 2010 that these first results came out. A carbohydrate chemist at Hawaii was trying to figure out why it is that nobody's agree on the uh precise melting point of sucrose, which is crazy. You know, table sugar is such ordinary, familiar stuff.
+
+[19:38] It's used in so many different things. It's a solid, it's pure, and so it should have a very well-defined melting point. And yet, when you look in the literature, there are dozens of different melting points, and they're kind of in a range, but uh, you know, not precise. And she wanted to know why it is that the uh melting point of sugar was so hard to measure. What she discovered was that technically speaking, sugar doesn't have a melting point, which is amazing.
+
+[20:09] That is that um if you heat sugar and you melt it, and you've then uh uh let it solidify again and then try to melt it again, the melting point that you get uh the second time around is lower. Uh that is, it takes less heat to melt the sugar after it's been melted once, and so on and so on. So the more often you melt it, the lower the the melting temperature becomes, unlike, for example, water, where you know the melting point is 32 degrees Fahrenheit and it doesn't change. And so what she discovered was that uh every time you heat sucrose, and that includes keeping it at room temperature, it's actually degenerating, it's actually degrading. So the sucrose molecules are slowly breaking apart into first its constituent parts, which are one molecule of glucose and one molecule of fructose, and then those sugars uh break down into other things.
+
+[21:09] And what she discovered is that process is happening at a significant rate, even at room temperature. And certainly if you heat it up to enough to melt it, you're accelerating that, and that means that what you end up with is a block of table sugar that in fact is uh no longer pure and yet's progressively less pure the more often you do it. And so I looked at that and I thought that's really interesting. I wonder if I could uh caramelize sugar, solid sugar, just by keeping it at a you know moderately for hours. And so I put some sugar crystals in the oven at about uh I don't know two two twenty something like that uh which is way below the the melting point of sucrose took them out after they were in there for overnight and sure enough they turned brown they're solid but they'd caramelized now why did but you also had an effect where the inside liquefied do we ever figure out why that happened why it changed why it was differently affected on the inside of the crystal than the outside I I don't have the the equipment to uh you know to determine why exactly but I have theories and my theory is that um so these are the big sugar crystals that you can buy you know in in Chinese groceries uh they're you know like uh half inch long and and quarter inch thick like and um I don't know exactly how they're they're manufactured but I'm I figure it has to do with you know the kind of thing that they do when when you make ice cubes, uh they the crystallization happens, the solidification happens kind of from the outside in, and you end up with at the core of the crystal, uh just as you do with uh with an ice cube, a lot of stuff, you know, dissolved gases and and impurities of various kinds.
+
+[23:03] I guess is that there's this little pocket of impurities at the center of the sugar crystal. They uh hasten the breakdown of sucrose molecules. And so the the caramelization begins there and proceeds uh furthest there. And so it's true that I've I've got some pictures on my website of um sugar crystals of that size that uh are liquid on the inside. They're solid on the outside still, but they've got liquid caramel on the inside and you crack them open and the caramel leaks out.
+
+[23:37] Wait so you think those big crystals are are formed not from a single nucleation site out. You don't actually think they're single crystals you think they're formed like ice cubes and multiple nucleation sites uh that's my guess. But like I say I don't I don't know what the manufacturing process is exactly. So yeah I don't know. You have time for you have time for you I don't know.
+
+[24:01] I have no idea I've tried to grow crystals on strings, you know, for my kids and I've never gotten a crystal even approaching what you can buy in a store like that, not even approaching it. And I I'm not talking like I'm not talking like uh like uh I waited a day or a week. I'm talking like three weeks. You know what I mean? Like like long waits.
+
+[24:21] And um but that said I didn't put it under in into for instance like a heated atmosphere with force evaporation. You know what I mean? I just had it out on the on the counter, and presumably at some point the solution, I mean it'll eventually evaporate, I guess, 100%. But I mean, I I did not have any luck growing big crystals. And I I tried a bunch of different things too.
+
+[24:43] I tried Hello, you c you're cutting for a second. Are you there? Uh yeah. Yeah, yeah. You tried to.
+
+[24:51] Yeah, yeah. We lost you at uh you tried, and then you were about to say what you were trying. Ah, okay, yeah. So it it seems to be part of the problem is the viscosity of the sugar solution. It takes so long for molecules of sucrose to get onto the surface.
+
+[25:05] So I tried things like uh, you know, adding uh ethanol alcohol to the to the liquid to thin it. The solubility of sugar and and ethanol is not that great, and I thought that would that would be pretty good, but it didn't work. I had lots of different things, and I have no idea they might make those big beautiful crystals. Yeah, yeah, well that's something for us to look up, I guess, for for next time. Yeah.
+
+[25:30] Yeah. You have uh you have 30 seconds because uh someone wrote in with a question that I actually you mean you're an expert in most of these questions, but uh specifically on this one. Do you have a second or no? Sure. All right.
+
+[25:41] Uh this was uh from Brett Adams saying, uh on the theme of Mexican food, I have a question about dry roasting chilies, which also applies to whole spices. Most recipes begin by roasting dried chilies, hydrating them, then blending them into a sauce. The dry roasting is supposed to help bring out their flavor. My two-part question is what is it about dry heat that makes the ingredient more delicious? And B, if I'm going to be cooking the chili later when it's in the sauce, won't the flavor boosting aspect of heat happen then, or is there something particular about dry roasting the individual ingredient first that doesn't occur when it's part of the sauce?
+
+[26:11] The only thing I would guess is that the higher possible temperatures in a non-wet situation. I mean, I know that you've studied this. Yeah, that's exactly it. Uh the the uh various com the chili or whatever spice it is you're using are in a spice concentrated, and so you apply heat to that immediately gets way above the boiling point, and you start to get caramelization reactions, browning reactions. The aroma compounds react with each other uh because you're at such a high temperature.
+
+[26:47] If you uh if you hydrate them and essentially steam them or mill them or anything like that, then you get a completely different set of reactions, and they're they're not as extensive because the temperature is much lower. Right. But it's one of these other things where people it's like it's seem they're not it's not a better or worse. It's a it's a it's a different situation. I mean, like I know that if you take coriander and you dry roast it, you lose uh some of the citrusy things that can be nice.
+
+[27:12] I mean, so in other words, I I tend to use like a combination. I know when I'm making liquors, I'll tend to use a combination of uh untoasted and toasted spices when I'm doing it just to accentuate the different kind of components, right? I mean, it's not a not a better or worse phenomenon, just a different thing, right? Yeah, yeah. And same is true in in Indian cooking, for example.
+
+[27:32] You use some spices, uh you you you use uh a certain amount of the different spices, but you use portions of them at stages in the cooking, and then often the very last step is to fry some spices very quickly at the very very end and then pour them on the top. Right. Or whatever it is, fizzles away and you end up with uh all these different layers of fragrance. All right, well, as always, Harold, thank you so much for calling in. A pleasure to have you in the show.
+
+[28:01] We're gonna take our first commercial break. We'll be right back with Cooking Issue. You're listening to Andy's Biscuits by Pamela Royal on the Heritage Radio Network.org. Like what you hear so far? Support the network and become a member.
+
+[28:44] Membership helps us bring you the best food radio in the world and gives you access to thousands of dollars in discounts at the sustainably minded businesses that support us. To become a member, visit Heritage Radio Network.org today. My name is Brandon Boyd, co-owner of Roberta's a super duper awesome place. Robert is a very, very, very, very proud sponsor of the Heritage Radio Network. We're also super awesome.
+
+[30:06] Thank you, Heritage. And welcome back to Cooking Issues. Alan Sternberg wrote in. That was fun though, right? With McGee?
+
+[30:14] Yeah. That's fun. Unprecedented. I think he's never been on the show before. Oh, I'm precedent having him read aloud.
+
+[30:19] Yeah. Yeah. Next time we'll get him, we'll get him a landline so he doesn't cut in there. Like that was uh, but that was awesome. I I've never heard him actually read aloud from the uh on food and cooking.
+
+[30:27] No. He's like, the thing is you gotta know Harold people. Like Harold, Harold is always a measured man. Right? True or false.
+
+[30:34] Like I Well, not always. Well, I mean, you know, well, when it comes to food, he is. Yes. Like, in other words, like, Harold is one of those few people, and this is why I love him so much, is that uh Harold will never talk out of his nether parts. You know what I mean?
+
+[30:50] Like, he always thinks about I've heard I've heard people ask Harold some crazy nutbag questions. And he's never, he's never like cra like he's never like, what the hell are you talking about? Which is not what he sounds like, obviously, you just heard him. But like he's never like that. You know what I mean?
+
+[31:07] He's like, he's saying, I love that guy, he's so measured. Anyway, gladly he's glad he's coming to the uh the museum event. Okay, Alan Sternberg writes in on Kimiek, which is spelled Q I M I Q. Dumb, right? Q I M I Q.
+
+[31:18] I think it was invented by an Austrian. Teamic. And Carbonation. Uh I've recently been introduced to the product Kimique. Their corporate chef demoed it at the culinary school where I work, but sadly I couldn't attend.
+
+[31:29] I now have several containers of it to play with and wondered your thoughts on the product. The blackberry Merlot Sorbet we made with it set beautifully and held shape at room temperature for damn near forty-five minutes, even while the texture softened. By the way, my son thinks damn's a curse. I'm like, meh, you can't say it, but it's not really a curse. What's your thoughts, Des?
+
+[31:46] I agree. I guess I think when you get to maybe be a junior in high school, you could say it. Yeah? Yeah. Especially dam on its own without the without the without the without the cut.
+
+[31:55] Yeah, like it seems to me it's like, you know, you know, it's right up there with root and tutin in terms of strength. Uh anyway. Second. Uh I've also been interested in carbonating a sphere or sauce. The ideal end product would be a plated element that wouldn't release the bubbles until it's in the mouth.
+
+[32:12] Any tips would be useful. Okay, Alan, let's take the second one first, since I'm much more of an expert on uh carbonation. So the issue with carbonation is um if you're gonna put it into a liquid sauce, the carbonation uh is gonna is gonna leave. That's all there is to it. So if you spherify it, what you what ends up happening when you spherify a s uh um a sauce that's carbonated, is that you develop a CO2 pocket on the inside of the sphere.
+
+[32:36] Now eventually, right, you'll reach an equilibrium uh at whatever the uh equilibrium v vapor pressure of the stuff is on the inside. So if you could create uh a sphere like alginate in a reverse sphere spherified situation or something that uh actually was strong enough to hold up to it, right? Then you could do it, but you'd probably be talking somewhere in the range of 35 PSI. And I don't know whether or not an alginate envelope or a pectin envelope, pectin wouldn't do it, but like whether one of those uh or a gel-an envelope could withstand that kind of a pressure. Now, if you did it right, maybe you could, in which case you could just uh set you know a a coating of uh alginate or gel an around the outside of uh a spherified thing.
+
+[33:17] You'd get an air pocket in it, but the air pocket would equilibrate, I mean, the uh not an air pocket, a CO2 pocket. It would stay there, and then it would stay carbonated for a little while. I mean, it's gas permeable, so you'd lose it eventually, but it would stay for a little while. Uh and obviously it would be fine if you then stored that for a while in a carbonated container that was pressurized, then you could store it indefinitely until you're ready to serve it, right? As long as you can pour it out of the bottle.
+
+[33:42] That wouldn't be a problem. Uh but that is gonna happen. If you really want to lock the stuff in there, you're gonna have to go the route of heavy gelatin. So if you set a carbonated product with heavy, like heavy carbonation, I'm talking heavy, like 80 psi, right as the stuff's going to uh set, which is around room temperature, then you can get uh a prickly feeling in the gel that you've formed. It's not a sauce, but the problem is it's more of a piercing, like needle-like carbonation, less I'm poking nostalgia, I'm saying that so that that can have the effect in my head of the piercing needle-like uh carbonation.
+
+[34:17] But um, it doesn't feel the same as a soda. It feels more like pop rocks. You know how pop rocks has that kind of piercing feel to it? Has more of that piercing pop rock feel. Um you can't freeze stuff that's carbonate.
+
+[34:29] If you freeze a bottle that's carbonated and the bottle doesn't explode, when it unfreezes, it will be carbonated again, but the freezing itself will force the CO2 out, and the CO2 will only be present in the unfrozen section, although at a very concentrated rate, because as I said, when you lower the actually, I guess I haven't said this, when you lower the temperature, you increase the solubility of the CO2. Anyway, back to Kimique. I've never used chemik. I assume it's uh pronounced chimique. Uh, and it comes from, I went on their website, chemic is a word creation.
+
+[34:56] Like if you have to do that much explaining about your product with the name, then the name is dumb. Yes. Kimique. What does it mean? Kimique.
+
+[35:03] It's a word creation stemming from the words quick and milk, demonstrating how quick and easy the product is to use. But uh what it really is is they take this is how they make it. I looked up H A M A Food Service is the company that has the patents. And whenever you find out what a product is, you really want to know what the hell's going on. You find the patent literature on it.
+
+[35:21] So if you go to H A M A Hama, I guess food service, go to their patent. They have a patent on the technique they're using. Here's what they're doing. Because on the on their website, they say stuff like, we're coding each and every milk cell with gelatin. What does that even mean?
+
+[35:36] Milk cell. What does that mean? Is that meaning? They mean my cells? Do they mean casing my cells?
+
+[35:40] What do they mean? It has no meaning. No meaning. This is the problem when you have like someone translating from their non native language into the whatever, anyway. It looks like an interesting product.
+
+[35:48] But on their patent, here's what's actually happening. They're taking skim milk and they're putting skim milk through a very uh specific temperature uh regimen, adding a very specific grain size and bloom strength of gelatin to it, holding it at a uh a very specific temperature until it uh swells the way they want it, they hydrate it by bringing the temperature up, holding it at a s for a certain length of time, and then introducing a specific amount of light cream to it, 15% cream, right? They then uh homogenize it and pasteurize it so it fills in like parmelot containers so they can stay at room temperature for a year, shelf stable. That's what it is, right? So, what's happening here, and if you want to know why that makes a difference, uh you want to go.
+
+[36:33] This is the most I love it when I find people like this. Dr. Bernard Cole's home page. Uh, here's what Dr. Bernard Cole has to say about himself.
+
+[36:41] He's from some South Africa. I have a doctorate in food science from the University of Pretoria. I am a retired, I'm retired from full-time employment after spending 30 years in gelatin. I am willing to assist anyone who could benefit from my many fields of experience in gelatin. And this is his website, and his website is just a list of like interesting and cool facts about gelatin.
+
+[37:02] He's in South Africa somewhere. But it's like inside gelatin somewhere. Yeah, he's like totally set in gelatin. He's like, he's like, you want to know about gelatin from pigs? Got you.
+
+[37:10] You want to know about gelatin from cows? Got you. Got you. Gelatin. I do it.
+
+[37:14] Anyway, so he's like, he's like sitting there, he's like, I don't know what he is, 70 something. I don't know. He's sitting there, he's like, I'm retired. You got gelatin problems, I got answers. He's like, you know, whatever you want to know about gelatin, he's got.
+
+[37:24] But anyway, he has a page on what uh gelatin does in dairy situations and in general, right? So so what what gelatin is doing is uh and this is why it leads to all the cool stuff that Kami can theoretically do, although I've never used it, right? Gelatin uh is a great uh foam uh former, foaming agent, which is why it's used in marshmallows, okay? And it can emulsify it uh it helps in in emulsifying things, right? Um it also is really good at stabilizing things like ice creams, which is why in your sorbet, uh although you did it in a sor in a sorbet, but it does works in ice creams uh as well.
+
+[37:57] Of course, it wasn't ice cream because you used Kemique, which is milk-based, so boop. Uh so boop. Uh right. Also, uh it uh it protects uh uh dairy-based systems from curdling when acids are added. So you can add lemon juice and white wine directly to Kamique or vice versa, and you don't get curdling.
+
+[38:15] And it's because uh, you know, if you read uh further on into uh Dr. Cole's uh webpage, it's because um the gelatin interacts with the casein micells and prevents them from uh aggregating and coalescing, breaking and falling out. So so it it does that. Um it has a lot of cool things that uh it also helps to make uh oil soluble things more soluble in dairy systems, right? And this this is basically explanation, and and he links to a bunch of uh uh research papers on it, but at leads to uh the main things that Kimi claims that they can do.
+
+[38:44] They're acid, alcohol, and bake stable without breaking. So I actually I'd like to get a hold of some so we can make some cream liqueurs, even though I don't really like them. I have people asking me constantly about the cream liquor. In fact, we've answered two or three questions on cream cream liqueurs here on the on the stuff. So maybe we can make some Baileys that won't form the what's that?
+
+[39:06] What's it called when you mix roses, lime juice, and baileys in your mouth, and it's disgusting. It has a name. Is that the cement mixer? I don't know. I think it might be the cement mixer.
+
+[39:13] Disgusting, disgusting. You know, no one over the age of uh 21 plus 15 minutes should ever consume one in their life. Like you're allowed to consume it in the first 15 minutes of your bar binge on your 21st birthday if you're here in the US, but at no other time. Um they say that it it reduces butter fat because it's got a higher viscosity. Another thing Dr.
+
+[39:32] Cole pointed out is that the viscosity of cream increases greatly with added gelatin, and so uh it can make it seem like there's more fat in it. I don't really believe in replacing fat with things like gelatin because I just believe in adding the freaking fat. But that's me. I hate whatever, anyway, okay. Uh it can replace flour, starch, or roux partially uh because of that.
+
+[39:52] I mean, so it's got a lot of a lot of cool, a lot of cool stuff. Uh it stays free sauce stable, uh going through sous vide. So a lot of cool stuff, but I I have not used it, but I thoroughly enjoyed reading Dr. Cole's website on gelatin and related products. All right.
+
+[40:07] Uh and see, very quickly. Uh Steven Silva wrote in I think I'm not sure whether we talked about this last week or not, Stas. We might have. I feel like we might have that man's writing with a dull pencil. Who's writing?
+
+[40:18] There's a man outside writing notes in a notebook with a dull pencil, and it's bothering Nastasha because presumably she's thinking about the noise that it's making as it's going across the door. He's reading a book on Rauschenberger. Are you a Rauschenberg fan? I don't know much about it. And Rick Bayliss is here.
+
+[40:32] I'm this is not Rick Bayless we're talking about, it's another guy. This guy looks for all the world like imagine the guy from Mad Men who's not Don Draper grew a beard. It looks like not a live strong sweatshirt. Yeah, if you can imagine what's that guy's name? Do you know the guy's name from Mad Men?
+
+[40:45] The the his partner, the older guy that was sleeping around with the lady in the thing. It's that guy plus a beard with a Rauschenberg book and a hat and a live strong sweater. Right? So now you you picture what I'm a dull pencil. And an NFL pencil.
+
+[40:58] Yeah, and I'm watching Rick Bayless eat his lunch, which is always nice. I love the Rick Bayless. You like the Rick Bayless? I've never met him. Never met.
+
+[41:03] He's a good man. Good man. Okay. Uh Stephen Silva wrote in on lactic acid and meats. Could you please review the concept and prevention of lactic acid buildup when cooking meats at low temperature?
+
+[41:11] We sear any meats that we cook over three hours to prevent it, and it is 99% uh prevent uh percent effective in eliminating this issue. Just wondering if you have any updated thoughts on this. Uh by lactic acid, uh I'm assuming you mean uh lactobacillus growth, uh bacterial growth. And I think the fact that you're preventing it means that you're probably following uh the steps that you're saying. You're pre-searing the meats and you're not crowding them in the bath.
+
+[41:31] I think that uh a vast majority of the people who are having problems with uh blow off and lactic acid and nasty flavors in the bags are crowding their baths too much. In other words, they're trying to put too many things in the bath. Uh that's what I think is happening. Uh that's that is my guess. Uh okay.
+
+[41:47] Uh we have ooh, we have uh Joe, what's the question here? I'm looking at these two pictures of two vita vita preps. You gonna give me the question? L Joe? Yeah, I'm here.
+
+[41:57] Uh so it's basically let me let me pull it up. But the question is uh which would be a better uh Christmas gift of these of these two uh the Vitapep versus the Vitamix 750. What's better for home use? And uh this is Jacob, and he's looking for something that will blend kale into soups or drinks without leaving a whole lot of chunks. All right.
+
+[42:20] Uh well here's my here but first off, I think they will both they will both work. For a long time, the uh the top end uh Vitamix was exactly the same as the Vitapep, the exception being in terms of its motor and its capabilities. The nameplate was different, and the main difference between them was the warranty. So you know, the Vitapep, if you used a Vita if you used a Vitamix in a commercial setting, uh your your warranty was void, right? Uh so the Vitamix had a much longer warranty for home use, right, and cost less.
+
+[42:53] The Vitapep had a much shorter warranty, but c and cost more, but was uh certified for use in a commercial kitchen. And that was the main difference. They since you changed them. So if you look on the web at a classic Vitapep versus uh the Vitamix 750, you'll notice that there's a different uh pitcher, blender pitcher style. Uh the older style, they by the way, here's what's really messed up.
+
+[43:14] Unless you're working with a bar boss or one of the really large pitchers, both those pitcher styles will work on either base. So you can swap them out. The new Vitamix 750 base pitcher is designed to be wider than the old one and shorter. And the advantage of that is it fits underneath a counter. If you have like uh if you have uh cabinets over your counter, you can fit it underneath, okay?
+
+[43:36] Uh and uh whereas the old Vitapep, one of the big pains in the butt about the Vitapep in the house is it does not fit under counters. It hits it right at the blender top, right? Uh the other problem I have with the old Vitapep containers is is that if you don't have the plunger in them, they don't form a very good uh vortex 100% of the time at the base of the pitcher unit because they uh it's too choked up, it's a little too narrow. The newer pitcher style that they use, which again I say you can use the same pitcher on either unit, is wider at the base and so allows for more kind of uh mixing. There's not as much of a choke up point, more similar to a blend tech blender.
+
+[44:15] Now, here's the downside of the new size pitcher. The new size pitcher holds the same amount as the old one. The old one is better at blending small amounts of ingredients because it's got a smaller base. So the old one, your minimum blend amount was in the area of 200, 250 milliliters, whereas the new one's gonna take more stuff, more product in your blender pitcher to uh adequately blend so that the blades are adequately engaged with your product. If you're only blending larger quantities, that's not going to make a big difference.
+
+[44:42] If you're blending smaller quantities, that could make a difference. I would suggest in general investing in the small size pitcher to go with it in case you're gonna do a lot of work with hydrocolloids and situations where you're gonna be blending 200, 300, 400, 500 milliliters of product at a time. So I would what if if it was my life, right? What I would want is I would want the new style pitcher and a small pitcher. Now, to the units themselves, I do not like the knobs and switches on the Vitamix 750 as opposed to the old school Vitapep.
+
+[45:14] The old school Vitapep uh like switches, this little flap switches, feel awesome to me. The newer ones are a little thicker, and they maybe think they feel a little more robo, but as Tristan said about my favorite jigger, they feel a little more play school because the switches are a little bit bigger. And also the knob on the uh on the Vitamix on the home one is a round knob, and it doesn't have the the paddle interface, like the the old knob has a flat thing on it that you can spin. And um in my mind, no one has ever equaled the awesomeness of using the interface controls of the Vitapep. Uh but uh so sorry that I couldn't be more helpful on uh on that because there's pros and cons for each of them, and I'm sorry.
+
+[45:57] Uh uh go uh my apologies again go out uh to uh stand below. We will I promise on eight stacks of bibles, I will answer your questions next time. Cooking issues.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio.
+
+[46:34] You can email us questions at any time at info at heritageradio network.org. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by TechServe, New York's original and still the best Apple computer, iPod, and iPhone store and repair shop. For more information, visit TechServe.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Cooking issues!
+
+[1:00] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live in the back of Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwig, Brooklyn, joined as usual with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. How you doing, Nasha? Good. And we got Joe in the engineering room.
+
+[1:11] Still no Jack. Did he die? Or is he just in Puerto Rico? Still in Puerto Rico, but it's like, was he planning on being there this long? Or is he dead?
+
+[1:17] Or has he just decided to move there? I think he's actually he's back from Puerto Rico. Just hates us. Uh you're gonna have to talk with talk with him about that. So, uh so actually, you know, today, uh, Nastasha is like my per this is my perfect kind of weather.
+
+[1:32] It's freaking awesome. This is New York, late fall, at its best, uniformly overcast. There's not one ray of sun touching my disgusting white body, burning me to death. Like my nemesis and evil nemes is the sun and today is the most fertile day of the year, actually. What does that mean, fertile?
+
+[1:49] Most people uh have sex and get pregnant today. Really? Wow. Well, unrelated to me being so happy about the studio is a great day. It is a great day.
+
+[1:59] So apparently it's a great day for a lot of people. A lot of people getting busy, getting lucky today. Uh but also, Nastasha, what I and I think maybe this is part of it, uh, although not historically, who knows? Is it it's it's exactly the right temperature. If it was like three degrees colder, you could see your breath outside.
+
+[2:15] And if it was three degrees warmer, the crazies would come out. Yeah. You know what I mean? Like there are no crazies on the street. And not to mention, for those of you that are gonna visit uh Roberta's uh pizzeria and hate hipsters as much as Nastasha does.
+
+[2:27] There's a secret back way to Roberta's. You don't come with like it from the Williamsburg direction or from the L train direction, which is like hipster train. You come from the J Chain direction down from Flushing Avenue, and you pass not one hipster in the entire walk. Either that or hipsters are like crazy people, and they just don't come out when it gets a little bit nippy. Is it because it's doesn't take that much energy to be crazy, and usually crazies just outside being crazy, and so they get cold because like we're when we're outside, we're moving around.
+
+[2:59] You'd have to shoot me to get me to just stand outside and do nothing. You know what I mean? Yeah. I don't know. Interesting phenomenon, the crazies.
+
+[3:05] The craziest in the temperature. Anyway, beautiful fall day. Uh calling your questions live to 7184972128. That's 7184972128. We're gonna answer uh Stan Below's question from uh a million years ago that we keep on forgetting to answer.
+
+[3:17] And here we go. Uh enjoy the show on podcast only, as I'm in France. A great way to gain knowledge on cooking, good fun to listen to, and uh funky in a good way, choice of music. Although now, you know, we have the user submissive uh submitted music, and so we have two different styles, which I which I thoroughly enjoy. You like that stuff, Restos?
+
+[3:32] It's good business. Um, I would appreciate your answering uh a question. Uh I'd like to create a small appetizer, maybe two bites. The idea is to take two medium prawns and flash cook them so they stay juicy and remove the shell and pair them with two contrasting textures. I'd like to pair one prawn with an ultra-light, very brittle meringue, in quotes, and the other one with a very chewy uh gummy bear, also in quotes.
+
+[3:53] Uh for the meringue, one egg white whip to which we add lemon juice or another flavorful water, uh water fl based flavor, I'm assuming, uh, until very light, then stabilize with sugar or another hydrocolloid. Of course, the hydrocolic can be pre-mixed in the flavored water first. Then put it in the oven to dry up. I could not find any indications on stabilizing egg whites in your hydrocolide primer. Any suggestions for that?
+
+[4:12] Sugar could work, but not sure of the resulting taste with prawns or a savory dish. Okay. So let's go into that before we go into the gummy bear. So, yeah, yeah, sugar makes uh the egg white denser and gives it structure for for when it's uh drying up. But as you say, sugar is sweet, so you don't want to add uh uh a lot of sugar.
+
+[4:30] You could use a different, especially if you're gonna do uh like uh you know a cooked meringue where you cook the sugar beforehand and beat it in, cook so that it's already stays cooked and then you dry it out. Uh you could use a less sweet sugar like uh isomalt, uh, but it will still be somewhat sweet. There are other, you know, completely non-sweet things that have the uh properties of sugar you could add, or you could do what I would do, which is go in an entirely different direction, and use methylcellulose. If you use methylcellulose F like Frank, F50, right? You can take whatever flavor uh base you want.
+
+[5:05] If it doesn't have any uh sort of substance to it, you're gonna need to add some uh bulking agent, like a maltodextrin or something uh that is going to provide some structure to it. So, you know, like i if there's no protein in it, if there's no pectin, if there's no anything, you're gonna need some structure. Then you add methylcel F50, anywhere between about uh 0.75 uh and uh up to, but don't go over 1% of methylcel F uh F like Frank 50. And you uh add it uh in a blender uh um while it's mixing high speed so it doesn't clump up, and then if you want, if it doesn't work, you go you know if you're worried about it not working, you can let it sit and hydrate for a while. Might not work in a milk base, you might not want to do in milk base, but then you just whip it in a kitchen aid with a with a with a uh balloon whisk.
+
+[5:50] It'll it'll whip up like egg whites, and you can pipe it into any shape you want, and then you can uh dehydrate it in a dehydrator or in a low oven, and um and they're crisp, uh they're great. Uh they you can make anything with any flavor. You could go dead savory, you could go sweet, uh, and it doesn't have any of the residual protein stuff that's left, so it's very, very light and airy. The less methellulose you use, the larger the bubbles will be, and the more airy it will be. But I tend to like in the area of about 0.9% or nine grams per uh liter of your product.
+
+[6:23] Now, listen, here's the important thing. Methylcellulose has uh trouble uh in that if you leave a methyl cellulose meringue out for a long time, it's gonna absorb moisture and lose its crunch. So you're gonna want to keep it either in a if you're gonna use a dehydrator, and I'm I apologize, this is the one thing I know in Fahrenheit because my dehydrator only works in Fahrenheit. You want to dehydrate at around uh 135 to 100 135 degrees Fahrenheit, uh, but you're gonna want to store it at like 112, 110, 120 in uh 20 lower, much lower than 135, because if you store it at that high temperature, if you cook for a long time, I'm talking like a day or two, uh, to hold it, it's going to start tasting cooked. Now, it you need to keep it in a dehydrator when you're getting ready for service because it's gonna absorb moisture, or you can package it along with a desiccant, which is a silica gel that a lot of pastry people get, and you just package it in a container with the desiccant.
+
+[7:18] The desiccant will remove all the moisture and keep it crunchy. But that's what I would do if I was wanted a meringue that was totally stable because it doesn't require very much thinking or very much tweaking, and it it works all the time, and I like it. Uh, okay, now for the gummy bear, I wanted to uh grind some uh grind some sage up fine along with tarragon or other herb, add ground star anise or something like that, and just a bit of water with high acyl gel-in and/or iota carrageenin. Now remember, well, I'll finish. Once gel, the gum would be cut in a few one by one by one centimeter cubes to be eaten whole with the prawn.
+
+[7:50] Any advice on how to use the herb so that the gummy bear uh really packs a punch of flavor. Which hydrocolide should I use? Any problems with flavor release, temperature, or acidity to think about. Okay, so here's here's the deal. So uh high there's two kinds of gel an uh for those of you that don't and gel an is one of these gelling agents, newer age gelling agents.
+
+[8:07] It's a micro, it's natural, but it's you know derived uh from microbial fermentation. There's high acyl gel an and low acyl gel in. Low acyl gel an is brittle like agar, and it uh and it well it's brittle. There you have it. Uh uh high acyl gel an is very elastic.
+
+[8:23] I do not enjoy uh straight up high acyl gel an preparations because they're extremely rubbery. They don't really uh imitate um, they don't really imitate gummy bears. Uh oh, and the other one you mentioned, iota caragenin, also, so iota carrageenin, kappa carragen, two most common carrageenans people use kappa brittle, like agar. In fact, it's very closely related to agar and iota, which is elastic and stretchy. Also, I mean iota, typically, when you're using it, you're using it in low concentrations for things like puddings because it allows you to uh shear it and then have it reset up into a gel.
+
+[8:58] That's a kind of its unique property, along with uh reacting uh very nicely with milk. But neither of those two things alone are gonna impart a real uh gummy bear texture. Why not just use gelatin? Gelatin is amazing, has great flavor release. Uh, and you know, there's a lot of recipes out there for you know how to do a high gelatin preparations for real gummy bear.
+
+[9:17] Because remember, the hallmark of a gummy, you like gummy bears, right, Sus? Uh-huh. A real Hallmark, a gum, uh they should be hard, right? They're hard. What do you mean?
+
+[9:24] They're physically, you have to bite into them. They don't just break apart like a marshmallow. You don't like marshmallows. Is it you that doesn't like marshmallows? Or just doesn't care about that.
+
+[9:32] I don't like. You like jet puffed? Yeah. Storebout marshmallows. What is it you don't like about the hand-made marshmallows again?
+
+[9:36] I forget. Is it the idea or is there something about the texture? The sound of the scissors cutting it. What if it was cut in a different room? You think about the scissors, and then you're like, I can't enjoy this because I know that at some point it was cut with a scissor.
+
+[9:47] Wow. All right. All right. Not gonna, I'm just gonna let that one stay. Um so uh the properties of a gummy bear that you're trying to get at with a gummy are uh that they are uh cohesive, elastic, and hard.
+
+[10:02] Okay. Uh and if you look on pat there's a patent out right now of someone using a mixture of gel-an and carrageenin, but not uh, I believe they're using low acel, the brittle one. So the gel an is there to provide the hardness, and you can use gel and a fairly low proportions. This is only if you want to do a vegetarian gummy. Otherwise, I would just use gelatin.
+
+[10:19] Uh you know, gel an is going to provide the hardness, and the iota is gonna provide, or they don't use iota, they use a mixture of iota and um and I believe new, which is a you know there's a billion different, not a billion, like eight, different carrageenins, but the you know, new is one of the ones that we don't really use much. But they in the patent literature, and you can look at it, it. It is the inventors are Andrew J. Grizzella and Neil Argo Morrison on a gelatin-free gummy confection comprising the combination of gel and gum and new carrageenin and/or a new iota carrageenan blend. So uh the gel-in is there for the hardness and the iota is there for the elastic uh elasticity and the cohesiveness, and the recipe is actually there in the patent, so you can go look at it, which is a uh a good thing to do.
+
+[10:58] But I recommend just using gelatin, unless you don't want a gummy bear. Now you're in France, a lot of people like you know the pectin texture, in which case just go high pectin. Nothing like in terms of very good flavor release and high concentrations, gelatin and pectin are the way to go. Gel an is good, but in high concentrations can get kind of weird. Um, and uh I've never done a super high concentration of like a high is a low azile mix to try and imitate gelatin.
+
+[11:22] But anyone out there with some advice, eh, we'll take it, right? We'll take it. Okay. Uh so I apologize for not answering that question for so long, right? Right.
+
+[11:31] Actually, uh Stan had a really interesting idea that we've never done about uh roto vaps. Stan was saying uh so different uh different flavors, right, have different kind of uh solubilities in different mediums like alcohol or oil or blah blah blah, right? So typically when we rotovap something, we rotovap the entire product to try and get as much flavor out of it as humanly possible, right? Mm-hmm. Yeah.
+
+[11:51] So what but what he's saying is why not have you ever tried uh, for instance, doing an oil extraction uh of uh of something or an alcohol extraction versus a water extraction, and then rotovap those extractions without the product in it to try and separate different aspects of the flavor. Nope. Good idea though. You could try it, right? Uh okay.
+
+[12:11] Uh Mike writes in about lemongrass. Happy holidays to everyone in cooking issues. Oh, that's right. Is next week our last one before the holidays? Really?
+
+[12:18] Mm-hmm. So next week is hol and by the way, for me, holiday means Christmas. So next week is the Christmas edition of Cooking Issues. Call in all of your, you know, Christmas-related or holiday or are we gonna do one between Christmas and New Year's? I know because I think New Year's falls on the day of the next one after Christmas.
+
+[12:37] Oh, it's on Tuesday? So next week, your last chance for two weeks, right? Is Christmas on a Tuesday? Yeah, uh, yeah. Something like that?
+
+[12:44] Yeah. I just don't know anything. I can't believe the freaking year's over. I know. My God.
+
+[12:49] By the way, we're doing our uh holiday thing for the they the there's a holiday, what do you call them? Like an ice cream social but without ice cream today for the Booker and Dax the Equipment Company and Booker and Dax the bar are gonna meet to ice skate in uh at the Bryan Park. Should be fun, right? Mm-hmm. Nastash's like, no, it's not gonna be fun.
+
+[13:07] But you like ice skating. I do. I just don't like I just don't like it. Joe doesn't like getting together with people. Those people, oh, how I hate people.
+
+[13:17] I'm just not gonna. You've been pestering me about having a company Christmas party. No, I'm actually getting that like a Christmas party where you drink. Oh I'm sure the bartenders are gonna show up. They will bring liquor.
+
+[13:27] I highly doubt it. They'll already be wasted and start skipping. I told Tristan to bring some hot drinks. I think it's alcohol, uh, it's uh illegal. Oh, okay.
+
+[13:36] Well, yes. Yes, it's technically illegal. Okay, sorry. But we're doing Mike with his lemongrass. Hello, have you happy holidays, which is how we got into this nonsense.
+
+[13:43] Happy holidays to everyone at cooking issues. I hate mincing lemongrass by hand, and who doesn't? Nastasha hates lemongrass. Guess why? Guess why, people?
+
+[13:50] You can't because you're not here with me. Because it grew in her backyard, and it goes back to her hatred of everything from her childhood. Well, why do you hate that? Yeah, I I used to like like play with it and smell it, and like it's now I feel nauseated when I think about it. Nastasha, what I love about her is that she properly uses nauseated instead of you get very angry.
+
+[14:11] I do get angry about that one. But the but like, but it's true or false? You hate you like everyone else. You know what I used to play with 'cause we didn't have that stuff. Because I lived you know in the East Coast here.
+
+[14:24] What? Joycey? Yeah, you know, you know sewage. Kinda onion grass. I used to rip up onion grass and smell the onion grass constantly all the time.
+
+[14:33] But I still love myself some onions. Anyway, whatever. Uh Mike hates mixing mincing lemongrass by hand. A few cookbooks recommend against using a food processor given that the blades create friction uh and therefore heat and that this damages the flavor of the lemongrass. Any thoughts on this given that lemongrass is gonna be heated at a later point?
+
+[14:52] Should this even matter to me, thanks, Mike. I do not think that should matter to you, Mike. I think that's a lord of a load of horse hockey. I I uh look, I'm willing to I'm willing to have my butt handed to me on this one, but uh I don't think it's a problem. I think like the reason I wouldn't use it is that food processor isn't that good at breaking up lemongrass properly and I detest the long uh uh like d uh I'm sure Nastasha hates this even more than I do, is the long fibrey craps from an in inappropriately processed lemongrass, right?
+
+[15:21] Yeah. So I mean like if you mince it by hand across you know, acrossways, you're guaranteed to not have any long fibers, which is good. Um so I mean I think it's less about the friction or the heat, especially if you're gonna heat it later and 'cause there's not that much heat in a typical food processor. Now you can get a good bit of heat in a vita prep or something like that. But I think it's more about the uh about the length of the fibers and you don't want any long, nasty fibers.
+
+[15:44] But I detest the texture of um kind of cellulosic f and you know, lignified fibers in my food. You know, unless I'm chewing on sugar cane and then I chew on it for some reason 'cause I have a mental problem until my gums bleed. You ever do that? Yeah. Yeah, it's terrible, right?
+
+[15:59] It's horrible. Which is why instead of using sugar cane in a drink, consider saving the cores from pineapples and vacuum infusing some sugar into the core of a pineapple and using that instead of the typical sugar cane garnish. I need to get our sugar cane press back out to use it the pu though, they'll never do it at the bar. But that'd be awesome. I do like sugar cane drinks.
+
+[16:20] Mm-hmm. Like fresh sugar cane juice? Mm-hmm. What's so I forget the word for it in uh Portuguese. But I love that stuff.
+
+[16:25] Well, they look for it eventually. Eventually, we'll do it someday. Someday. Anyway. So uh there you go, Mike.
+
+[16:31] And with that, uh Joe, should we take our first commercial break? Coming right back at you with more cooking issues. Man, Joe, your computer is so slow, I can't even use this thing. Yeah, I should probably get a new one. Do you have any suggestions?
+
+[17:47] Oh, totally, man. You should go to TechServe. Okay, what's so good about TechServe? Well, they've got this awesome new insider program that's free when you get a new Mac with Apple Care. So you should buy your computer there because you get 50% off data transfer, free loaner computers, front-of-the-line repair privileges, an annual Mac tune-up service, backup consultation and setup, seminars, and much more.
+
+[18:08] Okay, yeah, where's TechSurf? It's at uh 119 West 23rd Street in New York City. They're New York's premier authorized Apple reseller and service provider. And you should totally check out TechServe.com for more information. Alright, that settles it.
+
+[18:20] I'm headed to TechSurf. Man, your computer just got called out. Your computer's busted. Your computer's a flying sack. Yeah, can you believe that was all improved?
+
+[18:32] And Joe has not made it over to TechServe yet, so his computer still is a steaming pile of uh of uh horsehop of uh you know poop. True. Are you you're allowed to say poop on the air, right? I think that there's no regulations against poop. Yeah.
+
+[18:46] I mean, even if we were on the real air, I think I could say poop. Anyway, uh Matt writes in about lemon juice. Here's a word I'm not gonna use on the uh on the air on the air. Uh listen, Matt, I'm gonna editorialize a little bit. Uh come up with a good word schmutz.
+
+[19:00] How about schmutz? Matt used a much, much worse, in fact, I think one of the worst words in the English language when you think about it. Right? Dave had to explain this word to me three years ago. Yeah.
+
+[19:12] Rhymes rhymes with Greg. And egg. I'm not gonna go into it. Anyway, uh Schmutz. Uh I just got done center fusing some lemon and lime juice.
+
+[19:22] I started with fresh juice, uh, juice treated with pectanex. I let it sit for a few hours and make a loose gel with agar. Uh then I broke the gel up and spun it at 4,000 RPM, uh, which I'm assuming if you use a similar centrifuge to mine is also roughly 4,000 uh G's. Uh the lime turned out perfect, but the lemon had a scum. There you go, scum's good one.
+
+[19:40] Floating on the surface. Though I was able to remove it with the coffee filter. See below. Uh the same thing happened with peach juice a few months back. From what I can see, it appears to be some kind of oil or grease.
+
+[19:49] The question is, what is that scum? And is there a way to avoid it? Thanks, Matt. Uh well, it depends. There's a couple things that can be floating on the top of the centerfuff.
+
+[19:56] First of all, uh I would recommend you change your um your the way that you do lemon and lime juice. You should lemon and lime juice, I would not sit with an agar. Uh Nastasha's least fond memories uh are trying to spin agar gels in uh the centrifuge. Are these your least fond? Never want to do it.
+
+[20:14] What do you hate more than that? What's the worst? That or you did like grapefruit. How many tons of grapefruit? I don't know, for that for the Oh my god, it was horrible.
+
+[20:20] But no, but what was your least favorite? Is that your least favorite task? Yeah. Yeah. Really?
+
+[20:25] Of all? Uh let me think about it while you attend. Alright. Okay. So um, so anyway, that's not the way to do it.
+
+[20:31] Go uh buy Kiesel Sol, which is suspended silica uh salt from the um from the what's it called? Homebrew shop and chita san. Uh CH kitasan, uh, also from a homebrew shop. These are wine finding agents, right? Then you add two for every liter of lime juice or lemon juice, add two um two milliliters of the SPL, and also two milliliters be accurate of the Kiesel Sol.
+
+[20:56] Stir it, let it sit 15 minutes, add two milliliters of chitosan, stir, also be accurate, 15 minutes. Then uh two more milliliters cut uh Kiesel Salt again. Stir it up, spin it, you'll be good every time. That's just the that's the way to do uh lemon juice or lime juice. Uh that's what we do at the bar, and it never fails.
+
+[21:16] Uh okay, now to your other problem stuff floating on top. There are two things that can be going on. Sometimes you spin something that has some fat in it, uh, in which case it floats up to the top. Sometimes you s uh have some fat contaminating your buckets if you spin directly in the buckets as I do, in which case it floats on top. More often than not, what's floating on the top looks like fat but isn't, is a floated layer of stuff, and it could be broken up cell stuff, which is phospholize, but I doubt it.
+
+[21:44] I doubt it. It could be some fat. I doubt anyway. Air. So what happens is when you blend something, or when you stir it or whisk it, you get air bubbles.
+
+[21:52] And believe it or not, even under the force of 4,000 times the force of gravity, air bubbles don't necessarily pop. And so you have a layer of stuff floating at the top of uh of a lot of things after they spin, even if they don't have fat in them. And the way to get around that is to do a quick vacuum cycle to de-aerate the product before you spin it. And if you do that, uh pretty much you'll get crystal clear stuff on the top from the from the get-go. Certain things um are more apt to throw a thing on the top than others.
+
+[22:22] Tomatoes typically will have a layer floating on the top. Uh, if you vacuum them, they won't. Um certain things you can't get around it, like coconuts have a lot of fat in them. And so if you blend those and don't get the air out, you get a mat, a thick mat floating on the top, which actually tastes good. Tastes good.
+
+[22:37] Uh but anyway, so that is my uh that is my theory, and um that's that's what's going on. That's how to avoid it. Uh remember that where are we spinning that time that was crazy? Oh no, also when you're gonna put stuff in a roto vap, if you don't want it to boil over after you blend it, you you you put it in a vacuum machine, chamber vacuum machine, you dearate it. That's just you know, standard procedure, but a lot of people don't do it, and then when they run the rotovap for the first time, it sprays all over the inside of the machine.
+
+[23:01] Do you remember that time we had to deerate all of that uh was it the habanero that almost killed us when we were de-arated or was the horseradish? I think it was a horseradish. Oh my god, that sucked. Lots of horrible times. Every day with Dave is a horrible day.
+
+[23:16] Uh right? No. Pretty well, no, just most. Back then, when we did everything ourselves. We were in the school and we were working out of a trash room.
+
+[23:27] I mean like a hundred by a hundred square foot. And it was like a billion, it was a billion degree. Now, people, Nastasia Nastasia hates uh me for a number of reasons, but one that she detests more than any other is the fact that I am an insensate brute, and that my body doesn't care what kind of temperature it's put in. Whether you you could freeze me out, you could burn me, you could light my hands on fire. It just doesn't seem to bother me that much.
+
+[23:52] Uh and for some reason, uh this uh is in uh Nastash's playbook uh the hallmark of a poor uh a poor person, a low quality individual, uh as we like to say. Uh and uh I can I can't help it, things don't bother me. But that trash room averaged uh like a hundred and fifteen degrees because we were in the same room as the refrigeration units. I'm talking like all year, 115 degrees in that son of a gun. And here's the thing about me like I don't mind any temperature if I'm working, but if I'm sitting in a trash room sweating into a keyboard, I want to kill everybody.
+
+[24:29] Everybody, right? Yeah. I mean, I could be outside in that weather working if I was working, if I was doing something, or cooking in a million degree weather, I don't care. You know what I mean? Like, you know, uh uh those were legitimate temperature readings, like 115.
+
+[24:43] Remember that? Oh, yeah. No, remember we like the when we got those new thermometers, we were like, come on. And then we like recalibrated them and we're like, no, it's really like it's 115 degrees in here. And let me tell you something.
+
+[24:56] It wasn't like 115 Arizona style, which is still piss hot. Because I've been to Arizona where they're like, hey, you know, 100 degrees is legitimately not that hot in Arizona. It really isn't. You can go outside in 100 degree weather and it's fine. You know what I mean?
+
+[25:09] Because it's so freaking dry. Because it's not the heat, it's the humidity. But listen, at 115 degrees, people, it is hot. Now in New York, it's 115 sweet humid degrees inside of that trash box. Man, that sucked.
+
+[25:24] Remember that? We're sitting there spinning agar gels, and I'm like, oh my god. Anyway, good times. Good times. And that was back, remember when but my favorite part about it was I remember there's someone who wrote an internet uh article back when we were still doing the blog.
+
+[25:38] We're gonna get that fixed again, right? Jerry, the Christmas break, yeah. Yeah, Christmas break. We can get that fixed again. Back when we were going full bore on the blog, uh, which we hope to again someday.
+
+[25:47] I'm gonna get Piper to write for it, I think. Yeah. Yeah. Anyway, uh, when we were doing that, I had a guy say, Well, I don't have all of like the awesome resources that Dave has. And Nastasha and I read this, and we burst out, we burst out laughing, right?
+
+[26:02] We were laughing for like 20 minutes straight, 115 degree hot box with stuff. Everything is taped together with duct tape. Listen, I'm happy with I'm happy with everything we I'm I'm totally happy. So this is not like, oh, poor little you know what I mean? But well, like the fact of the matter is is that everything we own is held together with duct tape.
+
+[26:18] Alright? The phone was duct taped to the wall. The phone was duct taped to the wall. That's my goal. My New Year's resolution, peoples, is to not be the guy whose box is duct taped together when he shows up to the party.
+
+[26:31] You get a new box. Chip writes in about Calustians. Nastasha, Dave, Jack, and Joe. Well, crap on Jack because he doesn't like us anymore. He's not showing up to the sh just kidding.
+
+[26:41] I love Jack. Everyone loves Jack, right? Mm-hmm. Even though he insulted Joe's computer and I take Unbridge. Have you been to Calustian's recently?
+
+[26:49] Uh Calustians, by the way, for those of you that don't uh haven't been to New York, uh Calustian's is kind of a well-known and amazing kind of spice and ingredient shop. Um I guess it started out as having a lot of uh you know Indian and that kind of you know subcontinent style ingredients, um, and but now has just ingredients from everywhere all over the world. And chefs regularly make pilgrimages to Calustians to kind of just browse the aisles and see uh kind of what exists or what's something they haven't used before. And you can buy them in fairly small uh packages. A similar store for those of you it's on the it's in the 20s uh on Lexington Avenue here in in Manhattan.
+
+[27:27] There's uh another store uh called Dual Specialty Shop, which is dumb a name for no offense if anyone no one's ever listening. But the dual specialty shop is a really dumb name. It's over on First Avenue, I think, over downtown in the East Village, and they have um they're not as big, but they have a lot of interesting ingredients as well. So people go there uh searching for ingredients for bitters, for cooking, whatnot. Anyway, so that's what Calustian's is, um, and you know, great, great place.
+
+[27:52] Uh I went in for some spices and notice they have a large selection of modern ingredients. Uh, they are not listed in the website, so you have to actually go there to verify. Sorry. By the way, Calustian's website, one of the world's worst websites. It's a horrible website.
+
+[28:05] Horrible. No offense. Crap. It's crap. Horrible.
+
+[28:09] It's impossible to search for things on their website. Anyway, um, uh anyway, just a few that I remember them having are Kappa and Iota Carragain and Ultra Crisps, Ultra Crisp from National Starch Corporation. National Starch. I wish anyone would have a name as good as National Starch. National Starch.
+
+[28:25] Um Maltodextrum. Now, but the question is what kind? See, one of the problems with Calusteans is when they're bagging stuff like that, they don't necessarily write the provenance of the material on it. So you don't know exactly what it is. That's one of the issues.
+
+[28:37] Anyway. But there were probably two shelving units full of these ingredients. So it is nice if you're in a pinch. Most were in the one ounce or two-ounce bags. So good good tip.
+
+[28:47] I did know that, but I haven't mentioned it on air as a place you can walk in and get stuff. So it's good, good. I don't think dual specialty has those kind of ingredients, so you're gonna go to Calustians for that kind of thing. I also wanted to send you a picture of the turkey I did this year. I saw it.
+
+[29:00] You can't see it because you're listening on the radio, but it's a nice looking turkey. Mm-hmm. Right? Good to me. Anyway.
+
+[29:05] Uh in the smoker for about 2.5 hours. Wet her I like to mispronounce herb and call it herb. How does McGee say it? McGee? Yeah.
+
+[29:14] I think he says Herb. You think? Mm-hmm. Like Herb the guy. Whenever I say herb, I think herb like a like her Herbie.
+
+[29:22] By the way, Nastash and I sit. This is what we actually do for a living. We don't work on anything. We sit around and watch the YouTube of Hermie the Elf getting his butt handed to him by the lead elf over and over. Both the original version and the full metal uh jacket version.
+
+[29:36] Uh both of them. Uh it's an all-time look, rank and bass, it's crazy with all the weird, like pagan weirdness that goes on in the butt uh they gotta love those shows. Anyway, back to back to this. Uh uh, with uh in a smoker for about 2.5 hours, a wet herb rub under the skin. Uh there were only four of us, so it went with the traditional cooking method as well.
+
+[29:55] Thanks for the great podcast. Chip. Thank you, and thank you for your picture of your turkey. Right? Mm-hmm.
+
+[29:59] Turkeys. Okay. Uh we have some questions in from the Twitter. Ellenasa writes in three bone prime rib for Christmas, cooked off sous vide. And the question is off the bone?
+
+[30:10] Okay, off the bone? 55 C? Finish in a 550 oven for about 15, 20 minutes. Those are all questions. So here's the answer.
+
+[30:18] And uh that's actually like a compact uh Twitter question. Good. Compact Twitter question. Here's the thing. Uh if you're gonna do it typically, if you're gonna actually cook one, what you'll do is you'll uh cut it off the bone, sear around, and then some this is what some people do, then retie it back to the bone and cook it using the bone as a uh as a you know kind of an insulator protectant.
+
+[30:39] You don't need to do that if you're gonna do it sous vide. I I don't uh whether or not you pull the bone off is up to you, right? But typically, um you I I okay now here's where I'm gonna go against everything I've ever said. Just for easiness sake, I would bag the sucker and cook it to 55 uh 55 C. 55's a good number.
+
+[30:58] 55 C, 551, 552. Do nothing to it beforehand. Then this is where I'm gonna sound crazy. Just like bag it in a zippy with some oil, uh, cook it off to 55, let it cool down uh, you know, for quite a quite a while, actually, and then throw it into your super hot oven for longer than 15 to 20 minutes. I would do it until you get a nice, nice, super crisp crust.
+
+[31:20] You like prime rib rice does? Yeah. Stas, uh, what's your favorite part about prime rib? Um, it smells like home. Oh, okay.
+
+[31:27] Well, weird. Uh I was gonna say the crunchy outside parts that are overcooked along with the inside that's rare. So you don't want to skimp on producing those crunchy burnt fat things on the outside. So I would say do a 55, let it cool down for a minute, and then a little bit longer in the oven at the super high temperature. When I did my turkey this year, I had it in there for uh like an hour and a half in a pretty hot oven because I I but I had cooked it all the way through.
+
+[31:50] So I wouldn't be afraid of overcooking the outside in a traditional way because we love that stuff. The one the worst prime rib I ever did was when I cooked it sous vide all the way through and didn't finish enough on the outside and it was too uniform in the middle. It was a horrible nightmare. You see the way to call? Yes.
+
+[32:06] Caller, you're on the air. Hi, my name's Peter Bellastray. Um I live in Wisconsin, Milwaukee. I help run my family restaurant. And I just graduated from CIA about a year ago.
+
+[32:21] And I'm looking to go back to school for food science and wondering if you could make me like top five schools or just general advice on that. So, like we when you say food science, do you mean ac actual food science like a PhD, or do you mean just kind of new techniques for use in restaurant? I think combination of both. Yeah, I mean, here's the thing. Most of the actual food science uh places are focused on more in industrial uh industrial applications.
+
+[32:52] And it's changing a little bit now, but the the the issue is is that there's very little money in worrying about problems that are only geared towards restaurants. In other words, to fund real scientific research. That's changing a little bit. I would look at the kind of research chefs association if you're interested in uh food science programs. I mean, uh I I don't know who's currently uh the best.
+
+[33:14] I mean, especially out where you are, I don't know what's currently the best. I mean, over here, I mean, obviously Rutgers has a good program in food science because it's near where a lot of the flavor houses are. Um, you know, there's um there's also uh um Cornell has an interesting food science program uh you know you might you might want to look at, but I don't really know who's the best feeder for that kind of stuff. I mean, obviously if you want to do wine or analogy, Davis, you know what I bet I I don't know kind of what the kind of programs that they have. The other thing is is that um, you know, if you do some work in that, like maybe get a master's, that's you you could then get a job being uh a a chef or doing research work at a at a flavor house.
+
+[33:53] We've just met, you know, uh a bunch of them and they're kind of an an interesting crew. Now from uh from a food from a food tech for restaurant stuff, I mean, obviously, you know, we we teach at the at the FCI, we teach uh low temperature sous vide work that's geared at chefs that's like two days in and out. It's not a food science class by any stretch. It's like uh low temperature sous vide. Chris Young is uh from Modernist Cuisine is starting up his program at uh Johnston Wales.
+
+[34:18] Um but and you know, Chris Chris Loss, who's at uh CIA is still doing some is doing some work with that too, but I don't know what kind of classes they offer. But it's all a question of what you're trying to do with it. Do you know what I mean? I don't know how much a food science uh program is gonna help in a restaurant unless you're just a lover of knowledge, in which case go for it. You know what I mean?
+
+[34:36] I mean, that's that's what gets me up in the morning is just l liking knowledge. So yeah, I mean, and that's kind of one of the reasons I want to go back. It's like I want to continue learning that, you know, and with everything I learned from school, now being able to go quiet to my my family restaurant. I just I kind of want to continue that. I'm only 23 and I feel like I wouldn't really like going to school here isn't better in my mind.
+
+[35:00] I I still want to travel and like see things and learn things, so that's that's a part of it is walk. Right. I mean, if if you get, you know, another thing you can do if you're interested in just like the the the restaurant side of it, you know, and this is what a lot of people I know do they go they work for someone in the US that they can get you know stodge basically for someone who is doing this kind of work right and then uh you know so you know Wiley or you know uh Grant or uh you know Paul Librant someone you know what I mean and then uh after a while of staging there they then get the recommendations to go work at like Noma or in Spain and then you know they make the the you know they'll they'll spend some while so that's you know Fabulous who's you know uh works with us for a long time that's what he you know he worked with us for a while then worked uh with Johnny Azzini uh back when he was a John George for a long time and then you know spent a long time staging at Noma and other places and traveled the world and has picked up um you know if you're if you're young and if you can you know if you can do it if you can live that lifestyle is a good way to to see what is current right now in kitchen. But you have to be willing to put your time in in each one of the kitchens for that. Do you know what I mean?
+
+[36:16] Yeah yeah definitely but it sounds like you're and I mean I guess that's kind of a fact I've been I mean I knew already but I think I've been kind of making to myself that it isn't um but thank you this is very helpful. And by the way that last depidation you're showing is very smart. Like if you if you even think that you don't want to do that then don't send yourself down that road. Do you know what I'm saying? Because if you send yourself down that road and you and it starts you start feeling like you know, this wasn't the right move.
+
+[36:49] They it's a it's a long road to be halfway down and find out that it wasn't the road you wanted to be on. Do you know what I'm saying? Right. Whereas you know, if you're gonna go take a program in a school like food science, you're learning all the time and it's not the same it's not the same sort I don't think you'll feel the same sort of sense of crap if it's not the road you want to go down. Do you know what I mean?
+
+[37:12] Right, right. Yeah. And I guess I guess that's what I still need to decide. Right, cool. Well, uh well, good luck and I hope everything works out for you.
+
+[37:21] All right, thank you very much. No problem. Um, so uh at at Clef's, I don't know at Clef's name because at Clef's name is written in um Japanese characters that I don't understand on his on his or her I don't know Twitter feed. Uh but you know, uh one of our Twitter buddies. Um can melatonin be used as an antioxidant in food.
+
+[37:46] Does it have any advantages? So melatonin uh is you know uh a hormone that I guess is made in the in the pineal gland, and uh it you know, it's regulates uh sleep patterns and a bunch of other things. It's a powerful also antioxidant. Uh and it's sold as a dietary supplement here in the US, um, but it's not there's a strange rule in the US, and uh and here it is. It's that if I s I like the rules for selling you something that you put into your body as a dietary supplement are a lot less stringent than the rules uh governing uh what you put into food.
+
+[38:23] And it like everything is everything is completely back buttword on this kind of stuff. For instance, also like it's like the same thing where uh well, not the same, but the irritating the way regulations work, you know, usually and isousionol, which is clove oil, uh is considered safe to eat, but is not approved to use as a fish anesthetic. That's the dumbest thing in the world. So when we use it, we have to say that's a spice. Dumb.
+
+[38:48] Anyway, but uh the other side, and actually can be crazy, is that things that aren't on the G RAS, i.e. generally regarded as safe, which is the main list of things, can be used as dietary supplements. So you can buy melatonin as a uh dietary supplement. And you could grind it up and add it to a beverage, but uh there was uh uh uh an energy drink manufacturer who was making a relaxation blah blah blah that added doped it with melatonin, not just things that contained melatonin, but doped it with melatonin, and they got a warning letter uh saying that you know, um you you shouldn't do that. It was uh the company was innovative beverage, uh and they were had these relaxation drinks that had melatonin, and it's not approved as a food additive.
+
+[39:30] That that said, I mean, I don't see why technically it wouldn't work. I don't know what the stuff tastes like. Have you ever taken a no mean no? I've never taken it. I mean, the other thing is i you know, one one thing to do, and I uh I don't have time to I didn't have time to do it before now, but like you could just buy some melatonin, grind it up, and add it to some stuff that usually turns nasty, like apple juice, and see whether or not it keeps the apple juice uh from you know turning.
+
+[39:56] But be aware that even though melatonin is passed fairly quickly in the by the liver, uh according to what I read, it's like a one pass through the liver and it's out. Uh you might make people sleepy. Sleepy time, right? Because it's supposed to be the relaxation thing. So if you want people, you know, passing out at your restaurant table, you know, anyway.
+
+[40:14] So that's my that's my thing. But I but I do not I do not know, and I and I cannot uh what's the word? Uh advocate. Uh okay. So uh a couple things that uh I'm uh working on now.
+
+[40:27] Uh I sent out a Twitter question, uh, where can we get pig bladders? Because Piper saw uh Chef at Danielle use pig bladder. Pig bladder, uh, and this I started thinking about it again because we got a question, I don't know, about a month ago or a couple weeks ago about um not using plastic bags for sous vide work. And so I was interested because there's an old kind of natural en papillot technique where you use a pig bladder to um to to hold things in while you cook them. And so I was wondering whether or not you could use a pig bladder to do some kind of rudimentary low temp work.
+
+[41:01] Um, the I mean the problem obviously is that pig bladders uh unlike plastic bags are semi-permeable, i.e., things can travel in and in and out of it. In fact, the whole notion of a semi-permeable membrane was discovered with uh pig bladders by a guy named uh uh you know Jean-Antoine Noyet, who's a physicist in this in the 1700s, and uh he you know he was the person who noticed um that uh pig bladders slowly pass things in and out, and there was other experiments afterwards that showed that certain uh things can migrate across pig bladder. So the question is if you were gonna cook for long short periods of time, I think you could probably cook in a pig bladder without too much uh flavor crossing back and forth or too much loss or too much kind of uh the fact that it's poaching, because the numbers that I read um were that the the transfer rate across pig bladder membranes is fairly slow. You could also probably coat the pig bladder in something that would reduce the permeability even more, like zane or something like that, but then it wouldn't, you know, then that's kind of a pain in the butt. But um I found a couple sources for pig bladders on the internets, uh, thanks to uh the folks on Twitter.
+
+[42:10] We have two different sources of it that uh sent in. So we're gonna get ourselves some pig bladders, probably not before new year, and we're gonna do some low temperature uh pay bladder work. How's that sound? Sounds good. Sounds good.
+
+[42:20] And uh lastly, I'll leave with this. Uh we're we uh I'm gonna do some more lobster experiments. So for those of you that follow my lobster and the stash is like, oh crap, more lobster. But the last time I did lobster uh experiments, Stas, we uh I did I did it at my house, you didn't have to deal with it. Yeah.
+
+[42:35] Yeah, no, I know I'm not. Do you even like lobster? Yeah, it's okay. What's your favorite crustacean? Um I don't know.
+
+[42:43] You don't like crab, right? No. God damn it. Oh, ooh, didn't mean to curse. Crab is delicious.
+
+[42:50] Oh, oysters. Oysters, oysters, oysters that's not a crustacean. Oh. That's a mollusk. You like oysters more than clams?
+
+[42:57] Squid. Squid, also a mollusk. Hmm. Then none. Okay, no shrimp.
+
+[43:04] No crab. No. Lobster. No. If I have to a lobster roll.
+
+[43:09] Oh, Jesus. Okay, so uh, so anyway, so uh uh key uh keep you guys posted. Soft shell crab. It's good. Soft shell crab is delicious.
+
+[43:17] I don't know if I've mentioned this on soft shell crab, but uh I love me some soft shell crab. Do you ever prepare them? No. Do you know my favorite fact? I've told you this a million times.
+
+[43:25] My favorite fact about sockshell crabs? Because when you cut their eyes off, you have to cut their eyes off with along with their brain. They bread themselves. So you cut their eyes off, you pull up the little tab in the back, you rip the gills out, you put it down, you throw it in the breading, and they bread themselves. That is consideration.
+
+[43:42] That is a considerate food stuff. Yeah? Well, anyway, we'll uh we'll fill you in on my lobster test next time. Cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org.
+
+[44:04] You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage Underscore Radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at Heritage Radio Network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today.
+
+[44:29] Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Fairway Market, like no other market, a New York City institution that sells the best local, national, and international artisan foods for prices that can't be beat. For more information, visit Fairway Market.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Cooking issues!
+
+[1:05] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from the back of Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwig Brooklyn on Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday, except for next Tuesday and the Tuesday after that because this is our Christmas and New Year's episode. Uh here as usual with uh Nastasha Hammer Lopez, joined in the studio with uh at least temporarily Aaron from Heritage Radio. Jack and Joe. How you guys doing?
+
+[1:26] We're great. Yeah? Yeah. Yeah, Jack, how was the how was the Puerto Rico? That was awesome.
+
+[1:30] Yeah, what do you do besides drinking and and eating? What do you eat? Uh what did I eat? I ate a lot of uh chicken and rice, obviously. But I went to Viecas, which was which was amazing.
+
+[1:41] What is that? It's an island off the eastern coast of Puerto Rico, which was it's mostly a wildlife refuge, and it was protected by the government up until 2003, and then it became open to tourists, so still not too many people have caught on. It's pretty remote and incredible. Is that the one where the other half of it's a shooting range? Uh Navy testing grounds, sort of.
+
+[2:00] Yeah. Bomb, yeah. So we've saved the wildlife on half of the island and then bombed them into oblivion on the other half? There was a hilarious sign that said no swimming in this area. Live explosives.
+
+[2:10] Nice. It's like okay. Well, you know, we used to have that over here for those of you that haven't visited our coast when I was a kid. It used to be uh they were still finding World War II munitions off the coast of Sandy uh what is it, Sandy Hook in uh New Jersey. Any uh New Jersey that's out there?
+
+[2:23] Know what I'm talking about? Yeah, there used to be all sorts of explosive stuff left over from World War II just sitting in the middle of the uh in the middle of the bay there uh because I guess they would drop them off the shifts when they were loading them. Nice. You know, quickly I had a I had a question. I almost called into cooking issues.
+
+[2:36] All the red wine I was served in Puerto Rico, right? Right. Was all served chilled. Like well, how chilled? Like pretty chill like white wine chilled.
+
+[2:45] Really? Yeah, and and it was across the board, everywhere we went. Was it hot was it hot as hell? No, not really. No.
+
+[2:51] Well, you know, the French typically serve uh red wine much colder than we like we have a habit in the U.S., you know, except at the like, you know, even at even at the higher levels of dining here in the U.S., we have a habit of serving our red wines a lot warmer than they would in, let's say, France or another other parts of Europe. And you know, certain red wines like the first couple times I went over there were actually very it was kind of difficult for me to get it uh accustomed to. Like for instance, over there, you know, Gigandas, they serve much, much colder in uh France than we would have here, so much so that I got an argument. Don't get an argument with a French waiter. It's not it's not gonna help you out any.
+
+[3:24] But um But yeah, I mean I wonder whether or not it's particular. I mean, you know, have you had like the red wine in France and thought it was too cold? Or no, yeah, I have had red wine in France, and it was not like this. So this is just like a Puerto Rican thing. I think.
+
+[3:36] Was it overly tannic? Uh no. No, not necessarily. Was it enjoyable? It wasn't bad.
+
+[3:41] I just I I like my red's room temp. Yeah, I mean, I like it, you know. I like it on the coast. My wife likes it a little colder than I do, the red wine. Like, you know, she'll she'll pull a pull a Cesare and drop an ice cube in to kind of like you know, if it's at 'cause my house gets really freaking hot because I have the old uh, you know, the old radiator heaters that uh that make it like a million degrees in inside your house in the winter time, so you have to open the window.
+
+[4:02] You know what I'm talking about? Yes. Yeah, anyway. Sorry, we got a caller. Oh, got a caller?
+
+[4:07] All right, caller, you're on the air. Okay, hello, Dave. This is Nell from the Brooklyn Pharmacy. How are you? I'm doing all right.
+
+[4:14] Oh, good. I have a question for you. Shoot. Okay, I'm trying to make red velvet whoopee pies without using a ton of nasty red food coloring. And I've purchased online beet powder, which is a beautiful sort of vermilion fuchsia color.
+
+[4:34] But I'm trying to figure out how to boost the color in my in the my little whoopee pie cakes. I have what I read online was that um part of the reason they started calling them red velvet is because it was a chemical reaction between cocoa powder and an acid. So we have cocoa powder, and we're using natural rather than Dutch process. Um, and buttermilk. Hmm.
+
+[5:03] Well, I mean the yeah, the color of the Dutch process is actually because of the alkaline nature, right? The super dark thing is uh is uh a result of the alkali processing in in the dut in the Dutch process stuff. Yeah, yeah, so red I've never thought about it. The the beet powder doesn't add a flavor to it. No.
+
+[5:21] And how much chocolate how much chocolate do you have in it? Uh it ha like a cocoa, yeah. Yeah, it's a substantial amount, enough that you can taste it, but it's not it's not like a devil's food. It's not overwhelmingly chocolatey, but you can taste that there's cocoa in there, which I like. So I'm I kind of don't want to ease off the cocoa powder either.
+
+[5:41] And what's the liquid in it? Is it is buttermilk? Buttermilk, yeah. Right. And but there's soda in it, correct?
+
+[5:48] Yes. Uh and baking powder. Two two to one baking powder to soda. Right. I mean the recipe.
+
+[5:55] Typically for every cup of buttermilk or so, you're gonna have about a teaspoon of soda and then probably twice that of powder. Is that true or no? No, in this instance, it's a half teaspoon of soda and a teaspoon of powder. Per cup of buttermilk? Yes.
+
+[6:10] Yeah. Well, okay. Well, so here's what I mean, obviously the the soda is neutralizing the buttermilk. I mean, that's what that's what the whole soda buttermilk reaction is, right? But okay, right.
+
+[6:21] Right. So but beets, I'm assuming that beets, the more alkaline they go, I think beet beet coloring is an anthocyanin, like most of those other pigments like that. So the more acidic they are, the redder they are, right? This is why, you know, in uh in a in a pickled beet, they're so bright, bright red, right? Yeah.
+
+[6:39] Yeah. And then the more alkaline it's gonna go, the the more purple and more blue it's gonna shade. Now you're always because of the brown countershading of the powder, cocoa powder, you're always gonna stay on the redder side rather than the more blue and purple side. But I mean, I'm wondering whether or not you're shading it. I wonder whether or not you're shading it more towards the um more towards the alkaline, but that ratio that shouldn't do it too much because typically you're adding a lot more soda than that.
+
+[7:08] Me t uh typical ratio in like a pancake batter would be like a teaspoon of soda per per uh per cup of butternil. Right. So, you know, and that that you know, I've usually, although I've never done the experiments, taking that as a fairly, you know, like you know, one-to-one kind of swap. Now, um, you know, on the other hand, it's like you know, if you have a lot of residual acid left over from the buttermilk, it can taste weird, you know. You're you're unused to actually drinking buttermilk uh uh straight, but I'm wondering whether any residual acid wouldn't I don't have to think about it.
+
+[7:39] Like it be you've tried adding some extra acid to it to see whether or not just it whether it shades up or down or no. No, but I I was thinking the next thing I might do is is add a touch of vinegar. Just a little tiny bit, like not enough to flavor it, but perhaps enough to boost the acidity a tiny bit. Right. I mean vinegar i obviously is uh is um what's the word I'm looking for?
+
+[8:02] It's volatile. So you know some of that's gonna uh volatilize off during the during the the the bake. Of course, I don't know, you know, I don't know, you know, when the when the business is done. I mean, like typically anthocyanins, when you mess with them, you can shift their color even after they've been uh uh messed with quite quite substantially. Also, I am not sure.
+
+[8:20] I mean, obviously beets retain their color when they're cooked. So yeah. So we just want to like you just want to keep it on the on the acid acidic side. I've never actually made the red velvet uh per like actual instructions. It takes a boatload of color, they put a a whole boatload of red in that.
+
+[8:35] Oh, it takes so much. It's really yeah. Yeah. It does. Yeah, I mean I was well, that was how I re read something online.
+
+[8:43] That was how they it came about. Is it was a means by which they could show um extracts from food coloring. Right. Right. So you were meant to, you know, I think the original recipe, you can find this online somewhere.
+
+[8:56] You were meant to dump an entire bottle of red food coloring into the tape to make it red. That's great. That's great salesmanship right there. That's you know. Uh yeah.
+
+[9:05] You know, it's like you know, when you enter contest, it's all about you know how many boxes of rice crispies can you dump into a recipe, you win, you know. If your recipe requires thirteen boxes of rice crispies, then you've won. Um But if I was if I was gonna do this, uh I would A, I would test, I would make uh regular vanilla cakes flavored with beet powder, not even vanilla, just like white cakes, flavored with uh or or uh with the addition of the beet powder. I would probably do three different ratios and then uh you know, for for flavor to see where you are, then take the the highest one that you could do without a major flavor impact, uh, and then I would push the acid uh over three. So I would bake probably a total of six cake uh cakes in a in a white cake recipe.
+
+[9:47] Like small, like you don't have to bake a whole batch, you know what I mean? Like in fact, you could make one batter and then you know, do you know three at a time and do a small test. And then uh and then uh uh uh on the basis of those results, you know, try try to do one that's a that you think is gonna be way too little, one that you think is gonna be way too much, and one that you think is somewhere in the middle, and then usually within a couple of iterations of recipes like that, you can hone in on exactly where the magic uh number is, which is a technique that we use when we're testing out low temperature cooking recipes the same way. We you know, we try to make sure that oh that one's too weak, and oh that one's too strong. Once you once you establish the the boundaries, then you can hone in very, very, very quickly.
+
+[10:27] It's just like that old game of uh uh what's that game called, Nastash, where you have to guess a number and you have to guess you guess higher and then lower. Is there a name for it? I don't know. Anyway, but no, it's it's like a yeah, a county fair game where you count, you know, you can't guess the number of beans in the jar. Right, right.
+
+[10:40] Or but you but you're you you know you try you want to go in the in the least number of steps. So you want to make sure that you that you go too high, too low, then you cut that in the middle and find out where that is, and then you you keep you keep going. And and it usually you can get very accurate uh you know results on one or two variables within about three or four tests. Do you know what I mean? Okay.
+
+[11:00] Assuming they're normal variables and it's not like some strange hydrocolid interaction. Um but I'd be curious. Tweet at cooking issues and tell let us know uh what happened, because I'm I'm curious about the results of the of the beat test. Okay, all right. All right, thank you.
+
+[11:14] Well, thank you so much. I appreciate it. Have a good one. You two, good luck. I think the game's called Guess the Number.
+
+[11:22] Oh, you know, Jack Jack always likes you know, is the the the backhand the backhand slap. He's just mad at me about the cold wine. Coal wine. Okay. Did you you didn't have any good pork over there?
+
+[11:32] Don't they don't all yeah, of course. Do they do the zinc cook pork there, or is that a Jamaican thing? I think that's a Jamaican thing. But they're like these beachside shack things, and we had a bunch of crispy pork skins. What do you what do you call it?
+
+[11:43] Why am I forgetting? Chicharone? Yeah, thank you. Chicharron. Well, how do they do it there?
+
+[11:46] Do they do it hyper crispy or fatty, fatty crispy? Pretty fatty crispy. Yeah, I like that. I like them all. I like there's no there's no real kind of kind of any sort of crispity, crunchity pork skin product that I find objectionable.
+
+[11:58] I kind of unless they're you know poorly done. Uh but there is delicious. All right. Well, welcome back, Jack. Thanks.
+
+[12:03] What are you doing for uh what are you doing for the holidays here? I'll be sticking around here, not too much. Yeah, what about you, Nastasha? Uh I'm going home for three days. To home home is not.
+
+[12:12] See, that's the thing. Like at what point in your life are is home New York? Yeah, I know. To the place that I grew up. Ah, yes.
+
+[12:19] Yes. All right. Okay. Uh we have some questions in. Uh this was actually to Nastasha.
+
+[12:25] Christine doesn't care what we think by what I think. But anyway, she says, uh, how's it going? Uh this is uh an email I guess sent to actually to Aaron, right? Yeah. I'm hoping to get some advice from Dave as a Christmas present for my husband because uh apparently I'm an influence on him, which is, you know, I'm sorry.
+
+[12:39] I'm sorry, Christine. Uh anyway, uh Ryan has my 27-year-old husband, has been a musician and teacher for the past ten years. But food has always been a big part of his life, and he's recently realized that it's a passion he wants to pursue. He's been tearing through days podcasts, learning and experimenting with local and regional cuisine. We live in Singapore and volunteering at soup kitchens to try out his chops.
+
+[12:58] I've really always wanted to go to Singapore. Yeah. Singapore here has like amazing. Really? Mm-hmm.
+
+[13:04] I mean, Singapore uh apparently has like, you know, obviously has like great uh you know street food. Like apparently it's amazing. And apparently very, you know, easy to visit so long as you don't uh spit gum on the street, in which case you're gonna get whipped with a uh with a you know whip dipped in horse urine. Anyway, uh he has endless resources, but the biggest question on his mind right now is whether or not to go to culinary school. We might be heading to Sydney in six months, and the most respectable, uh most reputable school he's found there is Lacordum Blue.
+
+[13:30] And I don't know anything, by the way, about uh Lacordum Blue in uh in Australia, right? So I don't even know whether it's run by the same people or whether it's licensed out or anything like that. Just you know, word, I don't know. Although we have some Australian uh we know, I don't know if we still do. We had some Australian listeners.
+
+[13:46] Maybe they can tweet into cooking issues and see you know see what they what they think about that school and and how it is. Anyway, uh while he's still trying to find his niche, he really enjoys using molecular gastronomy techniques and is partial to comfort diner t uh type food. Now listen, uh Christine, you know, I don't know, you probably don't, but yeah, like for all you out there, you know I dislike the word molecular gastronomy in intensely. Just like I know what you mean, though. I know what you mean.
+
+[14:08] I know what you mean when you say molecular. She's just like, answer my freaking question. I'm not into this stuff. Stop at the assay. Yeah, she's like, I don't really care.
+
+[14:14] My husband wants to know, I don't really care. Right? Yes. This is the equivalent of like my wife asking this question. Yeah, my presence.
+
+[14:23] Oh, geez, Sas. Stas loves to give it to me, I tell you what. Anyway. Uh wait, okay. Okay.
+
+[14:29] The biggest question is whether or not to go to culinary school. Okay, let's let's let's just handle that right now. So uh your husband is a uh a musician and a teacher. Now, uh here I don't again, I don't know how it works in uh in Australia, but here in uh here in the US, there's a you know, obviously I you know taught at a culinary school for many years, uh specifically technology at the French Culinary Institute, now the International Uh Culinary Center. Uh, and many of my good friends uh and relatives and you know business partners like Dave Chang and and Wiley Dufrein actually went to that school.
+
+[15:05] Uh and uh it's an argument that I get into uh constantly with chefs about whether or not you should go to culinary school. Now there's a huge generation of chefs here that say, no, you shouldn't go to culinary school because it costs a lot of money and you can just go work your ass off instead, right? And that that's the argument. And so, you know, and to which I always reply to them, yo, name someone in your generation, and by your generation I mean between 35 and 45, right? Name someone in that generation that's you know made a uh a huge name for themselves here in the U.S.
+
+[15:43] who didn't go to culinary school. And the f the fact of the matter is that almost all of them did. Right? Almost all of them in that generation did. Uh now, uh just take that, take that that where it is.
+
+[15:55] So there's a huge group of chefs who have gone anti-culinary school mainly because of the giant price tag associated with it. So they assume that the price tag is just too high. And here's the truth. Like if you expect to go pay a huge amount of money and somehow make that back as a line cook, then you know, I don't know that that necessarily is money well spent unless your parents are gonna pay for a vocation that you're gonna have for the rest of your life. Right?
+
+[16:21] Would you say it's fair styles? The other issue I think that a lot of chefs here have uh in the US who are, you know, uh at the top top level, uh, you know, I'm not gonna name any names in this, but you know, you've spoken to a bunch of them, is that a lot of people coming out of culinary school now are going into it because of the c popularity that food has in the media these days. And so there's an expectation uh among uh this is not me talking, because this isn't it's not me talking, but you know, that there's an expectation uh among the younger generation or even among career changers who are going to culinary school that they're gonna go to culinary school, they're gonna come out, all of a sudden they're gonna be doing interesting work in a kitchen, and they're you know, or they'll get a TV show, or they'll get a this or they'll get a that, uh, when really most of the time it is a crazy, grueling, brutal job that, you know, uh nine times out of ten is it isn't glamorous. In fact, the glamour of it comes from, you know, just getting uh brutalized day in, day out with large amounts of work for very small remuneration. So uh that's the kind of argument I think that uh that you know, a certain group of chefs will make against cooking schools.
+
+[17:35] Uh but however I don't think they see the other side of it, which is there are a whole group of people, for instance, who might not necessarily want to be a line cook, want to be exposed to a professional cooking school for another reason. Maybe they want to own a restaurant without having to go through all this stuff and they have the money to start a restaurant, right? It's a valid reason to go to cooking school. Maybe uh my sister-in-law Miley, who now runs the Food Network magazine, uh, you know, decided to go to cooking school so that she could be a better um food journalist. And it certainly has, you know, served her in good stead.
+
+[18:08] She's had you know been nothing but, you know, going up since the moment she went, she was going up beforehand because she's an incredibly driven and talented person. But in other words, but the the school served her in good stead. So you just have to really analyze why it is you want to go to cooking school and what you hope to get out of it and go in there with your eyes wide open of what exactly you're paying for. Uh and I think that's the you know, that's the the the key to it. We think fair?
+
+[18:32] Mm-hmm. Yeah. Uh okay. Uh kind of a long-winded answer. But uh it's a qua it's an important question.
+
+[18:37] Mm-hmm. I mean, obviously my livelihood was based on cooking schools. And so when you go we like w if you take my course, for instance, on low temperature and sous-view cooking at at the cooking school, you know, I think that was worth it. I think that what I don't forget what we charged for it or what the school charged for it. I mean, it wasn't cheap, it was expensive, but we gave you a lot of value for it.
+
+[18:55] I mean, the other thing is, you know, uh the reason cooking school is so expensive isn't really that people are getting uh I mean th that I know of, people aren't getting astoundingly rich off of the cooking school per c it's that there's was a lot of bodies that have to be hired to to, you know, uh produce a lot of food that isn't necessarily getting sold at, you know, market rate. And you know, we gotta buy a whole boatload of chickens, and we gotta buy a whole boatload of you know, it's just uh it costs a lot to run it. It's not that uh cooking schools typically, with the exception of something like CIA, which is actually a dot EDU, are typically uh for profit, but that doesn't mean that they are rapacious, right? Mm-hmm. Okay.
+
+[19:33] Uh other questions uh include uh is there such a thing as too old to become a chef? Uh hey, let's hold real quick. We have a caller. Okay, caller, you're on the air. Hey, this is Josh.
+
+[19:46] Uh, there's actually two of us here. We're calling to settle a dispute. Maybe you can help us. Uh oh, okay. Um, so at your suggestion, we're now using the DMT sharpening stone.
+
+[19:56] Okay. I feel like it does okay for me. My buddy has a what's it, a glazed thing? Yeah. Right.
+
+[20:04] He feels like it gets sharp, but it doesn't stay sharp with this stone. What is there any beef to that? Or would you cause that? So, okay, so for the for those of you that uh don't know what the hell we're talking about, um the DMT is a diamond uh sharpening stone, and I use it uh you're using the interrupted uh red green. I'm sorry?
+
+[20:27] You're using the the two-sided red green with the interrupted pattern? Yes. Yeah. Okay, so we're talking about a f a fine slash extra fine, which doesn't really have much meaning, but you can go look up the equivalent micron values of the abrasives on it. Sharpening stone.
+
+[20:41] Uh and what I like about this particular stone is that it's extremely lightweight, it stays flat forever, doesn't need to be true, and it's just it in my mind, extremely easy to have and use. Uh so it's not not something that you have to like worry about and soak or like that's not really heavy in your kit. Uh doesn't you know, so it's very low maintenance, and I think does a good job. The question we have here is it someone is sharpening with it and s thinks that they can get the stuff sharper, doesn't necessarily stay sharp. The only way to really tell is the question is what were they sharpening on before?
+
+[21:14] Were they using like a Japanese, like a very, very fine grit Japanese water stone? What were you using? That's what we were using before. And my theory is that it gives like the illusion of sharpness by microcarating it more than actually owning the edge, much like a razor steel. Right.
+
+[21:32] So I mean this is the the big the big argument in sharpening is what do you what are you trying to trying to accomplish? Right. So for most rough and ready kitchen work, what you really are doing is not taking it to a super hyper fine polished grit. And there it are it's very sharp, but there are some kind of uh micro imperfections in the uh in the blade that help when you're cutting things like tomatoes. And so um, you know, there and so in fact you can have something that is uh that cuts very well, even that's not done uh sharp, you know, sharpened to uh the same grit, let's say, as you know, it's not a polished grit.
+
+[22:16] Is this making sense? Uh so however, the hyper polished ones, I have my doubts that most people with their hand are accurate enough to do uh to get an edge that is super, except for on like a traditional Japanese knife where it's fairly easy to get the the angle exactly right, but you know, are good enough to get a hyper polished edge that's so true along it that is also at the right angle that it's not gonna get rolled if you take it to a a hyper hyper polished edge. I don't know, it's an interesting it's an interesting fact. We like, you know, someone someone would have to settle it with a microscope and just look at it. I mean, I I I became several, you know, years ago, especially as people started ruining my knives by picking them up and using them for brutal tasks, that uh I was fine uh only going to the level of grit that you have on the uh on the on the you know the finest part of that DMT uh DMZ or whatever it is the diamond stone right because um it's easier for me just to do two three swipes at the beginning of a prep session than it is for me to worry about the the hyper polish.
+
+[23:22] Now I used to go I used to use an edge pro I don't know if you know that system uh uh edge pro you can go down to extremely fine highly polished grits and have with very very accurate edge angles. Do you ever use that system? It's like a guide, right? That you can use Yeah it's a guide on a rod and you set the angle extremely precisely uh and then you just go through all of your knives that are at that at those edge ratios and you can take it down to you know what it that you take it down to base basically to almost like to below toothpaste. You can go up to mirror polish on that thing very quickly.
+
+[23:58] And I used to use that except for I found that I just wasn't sharpening my knives as much because I had to bust the equipment out and do it and yes you know you'd have those crazy hair splitting stuff and I also I used to do I used to leather strop everything as well after I was done because I was also using a straight razor at the time and you know and so it's just something that was part of part of my repertoire but I found that it was just it was too much for me to keep going all the time doing it and then I moved to the diamond stone and found that my average sharpness was increasing just because my maintenance sharpening was so fast. Does that make sense or no? What is the leather strapping do exactly? Is that removing metal as well? I think so.
+
+[24:38] I think I think what it's actually doing uh more, and I've never really uh had anyone, you know, I just it was something I started doing because you know, some old timer told me to do it. Uh I think what it's actually doing is, you know, what if you were to look at the edge, um, it would be fine kind of breaks in it. And I think remember when you're stropping, you're stropping the opposite direction that you would normally sharpen. You're s you're strapping, you're you're scraping the blade, uh, you're scraping the edge. You know, uh you you know what I'm saying, it's the opposite direction.
+
+[25:07] And I think what you're doing is aligning it better. I think what it's really doing is is aligning it, uh similar but in a more gentle fashion than a steel would, even though you're in a steel, you're going in the forward direction, and a strop you're going in the backward direction. I never used to compound my strop. Like it compounded once and then like over the years I just kept on using it without adding more compound to it. And it really made a huge difference.
+
+[25:30] Because you know, the the test that I, you know, I always do the same test is I take a uh a relatively flimsy sheet of paper, hold it, and see whether I can just put my knife through the piece of paper and have the paper fall into two pieces. Because it's an easy way to find nicks in your blade. You know, even like micro nicks, you know, you you you would you would take it, but that cutting that paper also can, you know, misalign your edge a little bit. So then what I would do is I would do my sharpening, cut the paper and then strop it right afterwards, and then I was good to go. That's what I used to used to do.
+
+[25:58] So I always just had a leather leather, you know, a veg tan leather strop hanging uh uh, you know, next to my next to my salamander and just beforehand. So can I can I reiterate the question? Or just phrase it differently? Yeah. Does the tool you're would the tool you're using to sharpen your knife.
+
+[26:16] Change how your knife held an edge? Uh yes, I think that's true. I think that's true, but I think it depend I think in other words, I think it can be true. I don't think it's necessarily true. But I think it it can be true.
+
+[26:31] I don't know what I what I don't know is whether or not an edge that's taken to a lower grit that has, you know, what what is commonly called in the in the in the you know sharpening world micro serrations. I don't know whether those edges are any more or less long lasting than an actual polished edge. I think it is true that you can probably shoot for a polished edge versus a micro serrated edge. Does that make sense? Sure.
+
+[26:54] So I'm kind of taking an in between I'm taking an in between I'm taking an in-between uh uh position there. But you know there's I I agree with what you're saying. So I think that if if you could have a diamond diamond sharpening surface that was as the same amount of grit as a stone a a super fine one and you actually got a fur on it and then shave that fur off it would be the same. Right. Well what I'm saying with this with this the one that we're using it seems like it's really sharp because it's really micro serrated well it And then the micro serrations are easily like eliminated and you're left with like not that sharp of a actual edge.
+
+[27:39] By the way it is actually really it is a it is a fine grit not as fine as the finest water stone. However they they do make an even finer one that I don't have it's just more expensive and doesn't come in a dual in a dual grit um dual grit scenario. I mean just to throw an extra thing out to throw it into it there's a there's an old book that came out I think in the 90s that is mainly out outdated in terms of the the theory behind it. But it's called the Razor's edge book of sharpening, and it was by uh uh a person who is a consultant to the meat cutting industry, and his his gimmick used to be he would shave himself he would sharpen a double bit axe and then shave with it. Uh and so he held he holds the Guinness record for shaving himself uh in record time with a double bit axe.
+
+[28:22] He's probably the only idiot that's ever sharpened his face with a double, you know, raised you know, shaved his face with double bit axe, but there you go. Uh and his theory of sharpening is actually if you want long lived edges, and I think people still advocate this, although not as much, is you uh you you do two different angles. Your final sharpening is at a less steep angle. And I don't even know whether people still practice this. I still do it kind of intuitively that you really want two different uh edges.
+
+[28:49] The one is the hyper the hyper thin uh edge, you know, that you know is down, you know, it used to be like you know, very kind of wide, you know, like you know, 30 or so, but everyone's gone down to like 17 and you know below now and uh on but and then you'd put a slightly more shallow uh one in it that's a lot tougher. Uh you know, and those that sharpening technique was written for the kind of lower quality steels that were at that point still the highest end of knife that most people had in the nineties. So the newer steels probably can take uh an actual finer edge all the way along without shattering and pitting. But, you know, I don't know, take that for what it is. Like th his point was that a longer you're gonna get a much longer lasting ver a sharper edge if your very last sharpening is uh at you know a more uh oblique oblique angle, but a very small oblique angle right at the cutting edge.
+
+[29:42] Is that makes sense or no? Totally makes sense to me. Yeah. Yep. But you know, you might want to take a look.
+
+[29:47] I I again I haven't read that book in in a decade or more. Uh, but you know, at the time it was, you know, a revelation to me, but it my feeling is probably it's outdated at this point. Okay. Thank you a lot. Thank you very much.
+
+[29:59] All right, thank you. Have a good uh okay, so uh questions. Uh again from uh Christine. How about a quick break? Oh, all right, uh come back, we'll come back with cooking issues This is Fish Is Fish Is Vodka by the Meat Ballers on Heritage Radio Network.org.
+
+[30:37] Hi, I'm Steve Jenkins from Fairway Markets. We support Heritage Radio Network because all you folks listening are so genuine, so dedicated to serious food, so much a part of what this country needs to strive to become. People like you are few and far between, and it's obvious to us at Fairway that we've got to stick together. Our desire is that the word gets out about Heritage Radio Network in its support for serious food. Foodstuffs that offer memorability and and timelessness, authenticity and and rarefied quality.
+
+[31:10] This country grew too fast to have established any degree of a heritage. Europe had centuries to develop one. America has not. Heritage Radio Network serves to hasten the evolution of a society that often appears coarse and uninterested. For more information, please visit Fairway Market.com.
+
+[31:32] And welcome back to Cooking Issues. Okay, more questions for Christine. Is there such a thing as too old to become a chef? Well, no. Uh not.
+
+[31:40] Uh, you know, I know uh someone uh no. No, but there this take this. There are a lot of chefs out there who are prejudiced against people who are uh starting uh later in their career. And just be aware of uh the fact that there is a lot of prejudice out there in the community because um, you know, there are there's um a lot of chefs want to be able to beat on the people who are in their kitchens in terms of uh time and labor, and their feeling is that you know, people who are getting a later start aren't gonna stand there on their feet for 12 hours uh, you know, and and uh take the heat of the kitchen and you know, take all of that stuff. They're not gonna put up with it as well as you know, as a really young person.
+
+[32:25] But I think that in general, that's a a bad it's a bad thing to do. It's a bad it's a bad thing to assume about someone. You should take everyone on their own personal merits. You know, my my grandpa who, you know, he was kind of a jerk, but you know, when he was 65, he would go out into the lawn and you know, wrap a cloth around his head, you know, rip giant rocks out of the ground and then do a backflip. He could have kicked the snot out of any 18-year-old uh prep cook coming you know through most kitchens and he would have done it all day uh just to make you look bad, because that's the kind of guy he was.
+
+[32:59] So I think, you know, there's no such thing as too old. There are there are people who as they the majority of people as they get older aren't gonna have the stamina, but it's not the age, it's just it's just that's the way most people are. What do you think? Fair styles? Uh two, if there's only one kitchen gadget you can have, what would it be and why?
+
+[33:17] Well, I'd get an immersion circulator. Uh, you know, bang. I would get an immersion circulator because that's gonna just change the way you cook and it's gonna allow you to do things that you couldn't otherwise do. If you already have an immersion circulator and for some reason you don't own a uh vita prep blender, I would go buy that. Uh if for you know, and those are the two main things uh, you know, that I have at home that most people don't have.
+
+[33:41] If you're rich, I'd get a Paco Jet. I'd love that thing, or a vacuum sealer. Uh, but even if you're not rich, I would go out and get uh a Vitapep or uh an immersion circulator. You know, you know do you have a Vitaprep yes, S? No.
+
+[33:53] You want one though, right? Everyone wants a Vitaprep. You know what? If the people the only people who don't want vita preps are people who don't have one. They're like, why do I need that?
+
+[34:00] Because then as soon as you have one, you're like, oh. Anyway. Uh, you know, and if you have a lot of space, get liquid nitrogen. It's not really a gadget. Uh, but you know, safety, safety with liquid nitrogen.
+
+[34:10] And three, uh, what are your thoughts on turduckin? Turducing is where you know you stuff uh, you know, a bird inside of a bird, typically a turkey, then a uh uh chicken, then a duck. What are your thoughts on turduckin? Is there a secret to getting to cook more evenly? Yes.
+
+[34:23] First of all, do not arrange the meats in the way that is standard. It's a bad arrangement of meats. The way that they do it typically is they put sausage in between all the layers of meat and then just overcook the entire thing. Just overcook the hell out of it, uh, and then assume that the grease from the sausage is gonna keep everything tasting good, but with the uh, you know, and and juicy. What you want to do is go turkey, then chicken, then duck.
+
+[34:48] Uh, and you want to cook it with an immersion circulator, meat glue it together, debone it, meat glue it together, and and cook it at roughly uh 64, 65 until the center of it, Celsius, until the center of it's about 57 where the duck is. Uh you could put a sausage layer in between the chicken layer and the duck layer, uh, and that sausage layer will take up the temperature difference between what you want the chicken to be and what you want the duck to be. And you should be able to get 65 on the turkey, 64 on the chicken, uh between uh 64, 63, and um and like 58 uh on the on the sausage and then 57 on the 57, 58 on the duck. Uh pull it out, fry it off, and you should be good to go. Just make sure that you dry off the skin so that the skin gets all nice and crispity.
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+[35:33] Crispity. Uh and uh that's it, right? Good? Okay. Uh uh Eric uh who writes in.
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+[35:39] Uh he's uh who pineapple, which is an awesome uh uh what's that called? Twitter handle. Who pineapple? Who? Who pineapple?
+
+[35:46] You pineapple. Okay. Uh hi Dave. Looking to make the fries from your blog. And by the way, I know the blog is broken.
+
+[35:52] It is not my fault. We're trying to get control of it, and I've been told that the person who's gonna work on it, swearing on a stack of Bibles, they're gonna get that sucker fixed over the uh New Year's uh thing of a blap, right? Yeah, true? Mm-hmm. Okay.
+
+[36:05] Uh so I know it. Anyway, uh looking to make the fries from your blog. I recall 14 minutes uh cooking in a in a in a blanch and then two fryings. Uh what's the temp on the fry? Okay, so uh my current fries are uh not the ones I did on the blog.
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+[36:19] I still use the enzyme. I do half inch fries now because I like the half inch fry better. Um so I cook it for a little bit longer. I cook it until I can't stand it anymore. Uh first I do well, first you soak it in the enzyme.
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+[36:31] I actually, you know, at home I don't have the enzyme as much, so I've been doing it the normal way and they've been good. Here's the issue. The temperature at which you fry depends on how much you overcook uh the the them to begin with. The less you overcook them, and especially if you're not soaking them in enzymes beforehand, you want to do your initial fry at a lower temperature and fry it for longer. Why?
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+[36:51] To get more moisture out of the uh out of the initial uh out of the potato. So what you would do is you would take the fries, uh, you would blanch them in uh in in water, right? And then you dry them off with uh a fan uh or in a convection oven to get the surface moisture off. Now, if you're doing a 3/8 uh inch or smaller fry, then the the drying step doesn't need to be force-dried. You can just let it flash off some steam, especially if you've done the enzyme soak.
+
+[37:19] If you haven't done an enzyme soak, right, you need to get more water out of there to get the to get the crunchiness on it. What you're gonna want to do is make sure that you dry them off, let them cool down under forced air so that the moisture leaves. With a half inch fry, even with an enzyme soak, you're gonna want to blast some of that moisture off. Now, depending on how overcooked the fry is, you're gonna want to adjust your first fry temperature. Now at home, because I don't have the time to do the full procedure necessarily because I never know I'm making French fries until it's too late.
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+[37:48] I'll omit the enzyme step, and I will just turn my fryer initial fry temperature down to like uh, you know, 300, 270 uh uh 315 Fahrenheit, right? Uh and then what you do is uh the initial fry, it's not a time on the initial fry, you're waiting for a crust to form. You don't want it to go dark, right? You want them to stay blonde. Uh, you know, they can take a little bit of color, but not a lot, but you want to lift the basket out and keep tapping them.
+
+[38:17] And as soon as they form a nice hard crust, that's when you pull the fries out of the first fry, right? And the longer you can go, the more moisture you're you're getting rid of, and the crunchier you're gonna get on the second time of the fry. You just want to don't do it too much. In other words, don't get too rid of too much moisture, you could go all the way to what we call a hollow fry, which I don't like, but you know, you probably won't do it on a half-inch fry. Uh then immediately after you pull them out, the crust will get ruined by the moisture from the potato leaving and they'll go soggy, and then you crisp them up on a second fry at roughly 360 degrees Fahrenheit.
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+[38:47] Uh till they are crunch it, crunch it, crunchy and brown, right? Yes. Yes. You know what? Nastasha does not like French fries.
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+[38:55] Oh, yours are good though. Oh, thank you. Yeah. Oh, that's very sweet. Are you s is this part?
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+[39:00] Are you starting a news? That's here. So we have a New Year's resolution, people. And the New Year's resolution is Nastasha's not going to purposely say things to piss me off, and I'm going to try to yell and scream less. Wait, which one doesn't sound cool?
+
+[39:14] Both. No, I both find the food. You only get an hour of it a week. That's true. I mean, like, yeah.
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+[39:20] You know. You know, I was I was I was six feet four before I started working with Nastasha, and the anger is compressed me into five foot ten homunculus. Anyway, okay. Homunculous. Okay, uh Gene Doe writes in.
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+[39:33] Uh at cooking issues, can you carbonate solidified fruit juice gelatin? Yes. Uh when you're doing it, the way to do it is to uh put it into a the way I do it is I put the gelatin into a uh soda bottle, right? I use a ver I use a high percentage gelatin because the reason is otherwise it's gonna get torn apart, right? And then you wait until it gets syrupy, right, but not set.
+
+[39:55] And then you shake it at a very high pressure. So you're talking like uh 75 PSI or something like that. The bottle is like real dicey, right? So you shake it at those temperatures, uh at those pressures, and you get a very high carbonation level, 75, you know, something like that PSI. Then you chill it in ice water until it sets at that high pressure, and then you cut the bottle open with a serrated knife.
+
+[40:19] Be careful, uh, you know, you to vent it first, and then uh, but you don't actually, you know, you anyway, cut it with scissors or serrated knife, and then you can get the gelatin out, but as soon as you break the gelatin, it it explodes itself from the internal pressure. But yeah, I used to make a champagne gele like that. But the you know, but sometimes it can be really prickly. The the carbonation at those pressure levels trapped on the inside of the stuff can be very, very prickly. Uh but anyway, uh, yes, you can do it.
+
+[40:45] Uh Ryan Santos writes in at cooking issues, looking for sous vide temperature and time for wild venison leg. Uh, looking not for a pulled meat result, but more steak-like. Well, have I done wild leg before? I've not done wild leg before. The question is, is uh, you know, how much connective tissue there is in it and uh how easy it's going to be to render out.
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+[41:05] And the other issue on the particular piece of meat is whether or not it's going to go kind of livery, uh, gamey. I know I would I would say go low, you know, if you want it to be more more steak-like, go low, and because the longer you cook something, the lower uh, you know, the the the lower the temperature uh that you need to go, obviously. So I would say you could probably be somewhere in the 56, you know, 55, 56, assuming it works, let's say, like uh assuming its toughness level is somewhere near like a short rib and not like a lamb leg, uh, which is a lot more tender, I would assume. Then you could do something like 50, 56 uh Celsius for, you know, like a day. Uh, you know, we did yak, but not the leg.
+
+[41:48] We did it for a day at 56, and it was good, but it was gamey because uh, you know, the it took on a kind of a gamey, uh uh a gamey note. But I don't have any experience with long cooking on the on the on the leg, but it was not going to get any tougher at those temperatures, it's gonna break down. Some meats that are that are wild stay tough even when you do long cooking. Like I was really surprised at the lion meat, even though we didn't overcook it, but yeah, I don't don't get me started. Don't get me started.
+
+[42:12] Anyway, but they they they get us lion meat and uh it stayed tough even over long cooking. Bear was but we weren't cooking the leg. So I I apologize that if anyone out there hunters, and I've said everyone who hunts should get themselves an immersion circulator right now, uh before hunting season is over, so that they can just do something other than chili with all of the meat that they get that they otherwise turn into tough uh you know or sausage, that they can actually get some steak cuts out of these things. And I you know, I wish that there was, and there probably is, it's just I'm not connected to it. I wish there was some sort of hunter's blog for uh, you know, low temperature cooking, you know, or some sort of site where hunters You know, we have a hunting show that's gonna debut uh in the new year right before cooking issues.
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+[42:55] Really? I have to make that plug, yeah. Wild game domain at 11 on Tuesdays. Do they own a circulator? Potentially.
+
+[43:01] He's a chef, uh he's a culinary instructor at ice as well. Well, yeah? So yeah, I don't know. He he's been doing some venison recipes. I'm just saying, maybe we can ask him next time.
+
+[43:10] Yeah, or maybe you know, if he doesn't already oh, see, he probably already knows about low temp cooking then, if he's an instructor at ice, uh our enemy school, just kidding. Uh, but the um uh I should say rival enemies strong. Uh but the uh yeah, I'd love I'd love to know. All right, good. So we'll we'll talk to him.
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+[43:26] We'll talk to him uh in the new year. Okay. Uh Ellenasser writes in uh what is the minimum percent alcohol that'll allow me to keep a bottle of whatever in the cabinet versus the fridge? Example, uh uh phalarinum or or violette, things like that. You know, that's a very interesting question.
+
+[43:44] Um you know, spoilage of certain certain, and I'm working on this a lot actually right now with uh sodas that we're working on. So even things that are fairly high sugar level uh and even things that are fairly acidic, like a philarinum, uh, you know, can spoil on you because there are yeasts out there. Now I'm talking dangerous spoilage, but there are yeasts out there that can survive in fairly acidic environments, that can survive in um in even in in in high CO2 environments like soda, and can survive uh you know, kind of all of those things, and can survive, you know, somewhat mild alcohol. Now nothing is gonna grow above with the with the exception of very few, very few things are gonna grow above uh, you know, 18, 20% alcohol. So if you're doping it up to 18, 20% alcohol, you're you're pretty much, I think you're gonna be safe.
+
+[44:37] You know, 20 uh 20 and above, you're good to go. But if you want to have it very low alcohol, you don't want to go high like that. I would, and uh people might get bent out of shape here because everyone's anti-prise preservative, right? But like one tenth of one percent of like benzoit, you know, uh will um prevent yeast from growing. So if you're not against that uh small amount of benzoid preservative, it can do wonders for stopping uh yeast spoilage, which is what you're gonna be looking at uh on on excuse me, on something like that.
+
+[45:12] Uh so that's it. Otherwise, just dope it up to like 20 and you're good. I th I assume. You know, if I'm wrong, someone will say, You're wrong, and they'll they'll text me and say I'm incorrect, and then I'll correct myself, but I'm pretty sure that's right. Uh uh Mike uh I assuming you pronounce it payez, right?
+
+[45:28] P-A-P-A-E-Z, paez, pay us? Sure. Yeah. Paz. Paz.
+
+[45:33] Anyway. Uh have you ever had success experimenting with monoglyceride flakes? Uh and with the with the pound hashtag uh hydrocolloid help? Nice. Uh well, it depends on what you mean by success.
+
+[45:46] Uh mono and diglycerides are uh so you when you take a fat, right? Fatty a fat is a triglyceride, right? So it's a th it's three fatty acids that are attached to uh you know the glycerin backbone there, right? And so it's triglyceride, right? You break off one of those and you get a diglyceride.
+
+[46:03] You break off two of them, you only have one fatty acid on it, and you have a uh monoglyceride. What's interesting about them is is they go from being completely non polar, being a lipid, to being a you know, somewhat polar. So they are emulsifiers. They are ampiphilic. They love both water and they love um and they love oil.
+
+[46:22] Mono and diglycerides are uh are they as emulsifiers go, all emulsifiers are either more oil like or more water like. And when you buy mono and diglycerides, they come as a flake format, uh, they are more oil like. So uh you what you do is is you dissolve them, usually with a little bit of heat, into the oil, and then you emulsify your your water base in. So they're good for uh water, uh water in oil emulsions, right? So that you know that's what I mainly use them for.
+
+[46:53] So I've made hydrocolloid beads by uh putting mono and diglycerides into uh into oils and then emulsifying uh water dro what flavored water droplets into it. So I've used that. Very high levels of mono and diglycerides can be used in um to thicken oils, but I think it's gross. Like you know, you're talking about like 10% mono diglycerides, and it's gross, don't do it. I mean, you can do it, but I wouldn't do it.
+
+[47:19] Uh they're also uh obviously used a lot in uh baking applications. But I don't, you know, I I haven't come up with something yet where in other words, it's not part of our normal pantry. I don't reach for it the same way that I would reach for gel and gum or for agar or for uh meat glue or for um you know Pectanex Ultra SPL, like stuff that uh stuff that I use every single day. But that's just because you know I probably haven't spent the time. I'm sure that if I spent the time with it, that I'd think it's you know the greatest thing since sliced bread.
+
+[47:51] Uh Matt uh Gardner calls uh wrote in and says, hey Dave, what polycyence circulator is best for pop-ups? Uh Creative Series or Chef Series. Maximum 20 guests have a uh $1,000 a drop. Thanks. Uh so okay, so there are three different polycycience circulators that I'm aware of that are out there right now, and I can never remember which isn't the creative is the new one that's 400 bucks, right?
+
+[48:15] Or 450, whatever it is. Then there's the Sous vide uh professional, which is the $800 plastic one, and then there's the other one that is the $900 or $1,000 old school metal one. Now, here's the issue. Uh if you're doing a pop-up, you might want to have two circulators going, right? In which case, for a thousand bucks, you could buy two of the new creative one.
+
+[48:40] Now, neither one of them is going to circulate as large a volume. They're as powerful from a heat standpoint, but they're not as uh they're you know, they their pump is not as powerful. So you you know, you're not necessarily gonna get as large a bath moving as you would with the other one. They're also not uh guaranteed for commercial work. So if they break and they were used commercially, their warranty will not be valid.
+
+[49:01] However, even though you're only cooking for 20 people, you might find that you're gonna do uh in a pop-up scenario two different recipes. It might require two different temperatures, or you might want to run two different baths, in which case, it could be useful to have two circulators running. In which case, the only way to do that for a thousand dollars, uh, you know, with the poly science one is to go with the um with the new creative series. Uh that said, um, you know, both the, you know, I I haven't used the new creative one, so I can't really, really talk about it. But you know, Philip Preston told me that the main difference is the pump is not as strong and it's not warrantied for commercial use.
+
+[49:37] Yeah? Okay. Um Dave, I hate to do it. We've got an international call on the next show. Uh all right.
+
+[49:44] Two how many minutes? Two minutes? Like a minute. Yeah. All right.
+
+[49:48] Uh Elliot Padmot wrote in cooking issues. Didn't hear it before I want to make a cocktail for Christmas theme. Yule log. Any ideas? I'm thinking juniper smoke.
+
+[49:56] It's gonna take longer, Elliot. I'm gonna tweet you out a multiple tweet for uh for your Yule log cocktail, Stasha. I'm sure we'll think about you like Yule log stuff, right? Uh-huh. And you like Christmas.
+
+[50:06] We'll work on that. And uh King Amber wrote in uh super quick quick legal lesson on the name uh Kimique, which I made fun of before. Uh David suggested it was a terrible name. Not so. First is an adorable palindrome.
+
+[50:17] I don't really like palindromes, but okay. And they did a little something with the second cue to make it symmetrical, so it's visually recognizable, but more importantly, in the trademark area. The clients and marketing folks typically want a descriptive name and the lawyers want a non-descriptive name. Uh, and so basically he's saying it's a strong mark because it's both descriptive and non-descriptive. All right, fair, Ken.
+
+[50:35] Fair, fair. Anyway, listen, to everyone out there, I want to wish them whatever you celebrate, happy that, good cooking, and cooking issues. Bye. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[51:03] You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network dot org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by the International Culinary Center. Offering courses that range from classic French techniques in culinary, pastry, and bread baking to Italian studies to management. From culinary technology to food writing, from cake making to wine tasting. For more information, visit International Culinary Center.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn.
+
+[0:24] If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Cooking issues! Hello, happy new year! Welcome to Cooking Issues! We're back with Nastasha Lopez here sitting next to me on the computer as always.
+
+[1:14] We don't have any uh Jack today because he's still recovering from the New Year's festivities. He's sick. Well, what do you think made him sick? He has a cold. Oh, I see.
+
+[1:22] Thank goodness we have Joe in the studio. How you doing, Joe? I'm doing great. How are you guys? Doing well.
+
+[1:26] How was your new year? It was wonderful in uh warm sunny Los Angeles, California. Los Angeles? Are you in Los Angeles? No, I was just out visiting.
+
+[1:35] V visiting like friends or what? Yep, my girlfriend lives out there or is from there. That's where Nestot. Nastasha Hill's from near uh Los Angeles. Makes me think it's full of bad people.
+
+[1:46] I'm just messing with you. Call your questions live to 718497-2128. That's 718497-2128. Nastasha, what do you do for the new year? I was here.
+
+[1:56] Nothing, yeah. Nothing special. Well, we were avoiding each other. We didn't see each other over the entire entire thing. I was just hanging out with my family and then went to the uh Booker Index.
+
+[2:04] I wasn't avoiding you. I didn't know. I know you were avoiding me. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah.
+
+[2:09] Anyway, we have uh we have some questions. Uh Michael Knacken writes in Happy New Year, Michael. Uh it's uh he's our would you say he's our favorite vegetarian cookbook writer? Yeah at this point. I I bought his cookbooks for two friends for Christmas.
+
+[2:21] Yeah? Mm-hmm. Nice. With your own with your own catch. With my own money.
+
+[2:25] Nice. I like that a lot. I like that. She she used the Booker Index card. No, I didn't.
+
+[2:30] I swear. Alright, alright, alright. Uh Michael writes in Chris Young, Chris Young of Modernist Cuisine Fame, who's now teaching uh, I guess, uh, at a rival of ours, like uh Johnston Wales, I think in Rhode Island. I think he's doing it, uh not wherever it is, yeah. Rhode Island on the campus anyway.
+
+[2:44] Chris Young, friend of ours, like him a lot, was telling some entertaining stories about fluffing. And Michael wants to know, can we say that on the air? I think we can, if we don't describe where f the word fluffing comes from, we can say it. Right, Joe? Yeah, just uh yeah.
+
+[2:58] Uh walk at the thin line. Yeah, well, well, okay, so I think fluffing, like it's such a good word. It needs to just be redefined as just keeping people pumped for their job. Let's put it that way. Yeah, exactly.
+
+[3:10] Right. Great. All right, a fluffer is someone who keeps the more important person pumped and primed, let's say. Let's say say pumped in prime. Okay.
+
+[3:17] Uh anyway, so uh about fluffing uh with uh uh me and Tony the Tiger in Miami. Uh can we hear Day's version of the events? Uh yeah, sure. Uh so what happened was is that uh a number of years ago, um we were asked, uh Chris Chris and I were asked to literally fluff for food network talent at some event at South Beach. It's the only Did I go twice or did I go once to South Beach?
+
+[3:39] I think once. Once, yeah. I I don't really, whatever, I'm not gonna say anything about it. But anyway, the point is that Kellogg's the people like who make you know who make good products like uh the Kellogg's Frosted Flakes and other and other well-known cereal brands, they have they they rent this amphitheater thing inside of this place called uh the parrot jungle. I think that's the name of it, Parrot Jungle in Miami.
+
+[4:00] Like right uh right there, like near the causeway. And uh the place is nutty, like the place is full of of like crazy parrots and crazy trees, and all sorts of like you know, like they have a they have a um a cockatoo there that literally used to they have a picture of the cockatoo sitting on Winston Churchill's shoulder, and this some some gun cockatoo is still alive because apparently as long as they don't get sick, these things they just don't die. They live to be like a hundred, these freaking things. Anyway, so there's parrots everywhere. And Kellogg uh is like renting the place out for this South Beach Food and Wine Festival thing.
+
+[4:31] And Chris and I are there because they have some sort of science-friendly kids thing. I don't even really know, but what it really was an excuse for was to get like Jada and uh you know, the Ace of Cakes, Sky and Guy Fieri and uh, you know, all these people up there. And so literally Chris and I would stand there and take science questions from the local Miami crowd and their kids, just like cooking issues, just like this, but it was all questions that I hate. Like, you know, all like nutrition-based stuff. Anyway, we fielded the questions, and everyone no one could wait for us to get the hell off the stage so that Giada or or Guy Fieri could get on stage or Tony even Tony the Tiger was a much bigger hit than and than we were.
+
+[5:18] I mean, frankly, I mean I think we did a good job, but you know, they weren't there to see, you know, Chris Young and and myself uh you know answer their questions about uh uh you know differ different kinds of sugars. But uh my my memory is is that this the the one question that the person was excited to ask, this little girl was like, eh, I raised her hand, I guess, and she says, uh, can you give this necklace to Jada? And she made this like pasta necklace, and I was like, oh my god. And I I hope to God that Giada was good about it and like took it and wore it. I was like, well, I was like, kid, I don't know Jada.
+
+[5:48] Like if I went up and like tripped her and she fell over, she wouldn't know who to call the cops and blame. She has no idea who the hell I am. I didn't say hell. I didn't say any of this. But I was like, but I will try to see, I'll put this necklace right here where her workstation is, and hopefully she will put it on.
+
+[6:01] But I don't even know what happened because as soon as it was time for the real people to come on stage, they like you know, brought out the cane, like swiped us off the stage, and that was it, gone. Right? Nastasha, but let me tell you how how how ghetto this was. Nastasha was flown out there to quote unquote assist in this project, and she didn't even show up to the event. True or false.
+
+[6:22] I wasn't flown out, and I paid my own way in my hotel. No, you your own hotel. Yeah, I think that's a good idea. Because because you wouldn't work with it to get the hotel, your flight was paid, excuse me. I can look through my go through and look.
+
+[6:35] Your flight was paid. Uh you could have had a paid hotel, but you can't Nasta here's Nastasha. Nastasha, even when we're going on business, so cheap, she's like, Can I just stay in your hotel? No. I'm a grown man.
+
+[6:44] We didn't have a business card. This is like whatever here in Northern. But the the the really good reason to go, and the reason why it was an extremely worthwhile trip was A, I got to see the the uh the uh cockatoo that was on uh Winston Churchill's shoulder, but B, it was the first time I went to the uh Miami uh fruit and spice park, which is I think one of the greatest places on earth, and I've talked about it on the air a bunch, and it's uh a place everyone should go. And we went with Chris, and I think he was pretty impressed by as well. Yeah.
+
+[7:07] Yeah. Okay. Uh Grant from Indianapolis writes in about pork belly and espuma. Okay, uh I'll I'm gonna go, I'll go Looney on the word espuma in a minute. But uh hey uh Dave Nastashia and gang.
+
+[7:14] I'm working on a new dish and have a couple of questions I would love to have you weigh in on. First, I want to do a pine infused espuma. Uh I want pine flavor to come through so it's recognizable but not overpowering. My question is on method. I'm wondering if I could I should simmer the pine in uh my liquid on the stove, throw it in a bag in my sous vive supreme, or use a pressure, uh use pressure in an ISI whipper.
+
+[7:36] What do you think? All right. Um, Grant, first thing, here's what I think. I hate the word espuma. Okay, okay, I'll tell you why.
+
+[7:44] I I posted about this, you can't read it right now because the blog is still down. We're working on it, people. I don't want to hear it, I'm working on it. Uh actually, I'm not working on it. Uh a friend of ours named Paul's working on it.
+
+[7:53] But um espuma is I I believe it's just kind of like the Spanish word for foam, right? I mean, do you sp you don't speak Spanish anymore? Nastasha forgot all of her Spanish because she had an Italian boyfriend once. I don't want to talk about it. And uh but the point is is that is that in English, a spuma to me sounds like something you hawked up and spat out.
+
+[8:12] Right? Nastash, you with me on this? Yes, it's it's disgusting. Yeah, yeah. So for me, I'm gonna say that if you're doing it, like I would just call it a foam.
+
+[8:20] I would just call it a foam. I mean, if you have to say the word espuma, say the word espuma. But I just I'm I'm I'm anti the word espuma on an English language menu. If the entire menu's in Spanish, then go ahead and write espuma, right? Right.
+
+[8:33] Right. But it'll be like it would be like writing, I'm gonna have poached oofs. You don't write that. You know what I mean? You write I have poached eggs, right?
+
+[8:40] Yes. Right. And by the way, I like like I hope you're not getting bent over me going on this diatribe. I just happen to not like the word. That's all, right?
+
+[8:47] It's a gross word. It's gross. I mean, look, no effect. I'm not saying like Grant, we're pro you, just anti-the word is pluma, right? Okay.
+
+[8:53] Uh on pine. The interesting thing about pine is is that I I love pine. Uh my favorite way to work with pine is actually to uh distill it. Uh we we, you know, several many years actually, we've taken Christmas trees, purchased Christmas trees, ripped the Christmas trees apart and then distilled them. Remember last year's stuff?
+
+[9:11] Yeah, we did a party for uh MTV, MTV music, and uh we did we did pine pine gin and tonics where we were doing uh Douglas furs and we were buying Douglas furs and stripping them down and and um and distilling them in the rotive app, and that's delicious. So the two things you want to make sure when you do it is one, you don't oversteep if you're using something like alcohol, which it sounds like you're not, but if you're using alcohol, there's a real danger that you're gonna get kind of that detergent-y um pine sally kind of uh uh thing out of it because you extract so so much of the resin. It probably won't be as big of a deal if you do it in water. I would do traditional uh, for instance, like a spruce tea or fir or pine tea is typically done either with the new buds if you can get them, it's not the time of year, or uh with the needles uh brewed for a fairly long time in hot water because it won't extract uh as much of the resin, but you'll get a uh a nice brew out of it. B I like I say, I've done it almost exclusively in alcohol, I've never really done any water-based uh pine stuff.
+
+[10:06] You want to be careful to choose, well, aside from choosing ones that don't have weird pesticides on it, you want to be careful to choose a pine that's not too redolent of uh bathroom cleaner. And I have the same problem with lavender. A lot of times when you're working with lavender in a drink, and I warn people because a lot of people want to work with lavender and they want to work with pine. Me, I'm I have a huge soft spot for pine. I remember Sam Mason used to work with pine a lot at WD-50 back when he was there.
+
+[10:28] Uh you know, I've worked with pine a lot, Nils works with pine a lot. We we all love it, but there's a good chunk of people out there that even when you do a really, really good job with it, are going to have um bat bathroom memories or cleaner memories. And and and like I say, the same thing is true with um with lavender. And so you have to be very careful to try it out on a bunch of people to see whether or not they're gonna have the same response. It's very difficult as a cook to know what everyone's reaction is gonna be to something just because you love it.
+
+[11:03] I've I've learned this the hard way, believe me, many, many times. The same thing happened is true uh you know a number of years ago with super low temperature fish that you know uh a lot of people were playing around with like a lot of the chefs really loved it, but there's a good chunk of customers that even when it was done really, really well, they just didn't like it. And so just be aware when you're using a polarizing flavor that you are using a polarizing flavor and try to try to take it such that it's on the non-detergenty side. That's all. That's what I'm gonna say.
+
+[11:29] Uh that said, distillation is sick. Also, on dosing, dosing is extremely important. So even if you have one that you really like the aroma of, and you don't think it's gonna go too pine salt, too detergent. Like we've done, I've done, we've done Fraser's, we've done Doug Fur's, we've done, I think we've done balsam. Uh, you know, I've never had a really good source of spruce myself.
+
+[11:47] And I used to chew on the needles all the time growing up because I've I loved it. Um but you want to um you want to test it all the time as you're making it to make sure that you're not gonna go extract too much stuff and go over bitter, over piney, over resin on it. There's a very, very fine line, you want to be careful. And the same thing's true. Remember when we did this distillation styles, we had a very, very strong distillate.
+
+[12:07] We had to water it quite a bit to get it to work exactly the way the way we want it to. But that said, it's a very good flavor. Okay. That's good? Yes.
+
+[12:14] Okay. Uh, second, this is uh from Grant Still. I'm doing a low temperature pork belly. Unfortunately, I don't have a circulator, just a Sous-Vide Supreme, so I'll have to do smaller pieces of the belly at a time. My first thought is to do a brine rinse, uh, cook sous vide uh low uh and then sear it.
+
+[12:30] But I benefit from doing a pre-sear before cooking low temp, or am I best off leaving it till the end. My goal is to have a nice crispy layer of skin on top. Also, since I'm planning on cooking the belly a day ahead, would it be best to reheat it in the bag the day of service and do my sear right before it goes out to the table. Okay. On the pork belly, like I would cook it way more than a day if you're gonna go low.
+
+[12:50] I mean, Wiley used to do his, I think for 72 hours, and I still remember that dish. That was on I think his opening menu, his his uh he was uh Wiley's at WD50 when he opened was I think the first time I'd had the the low temperature long cooked pork belly, and um that was actually one of the revelations for uh low temperature cooking for me was how much I I like that. And he he brined I think he his took up forever to do. He brined it, I think with uh some n nitrites in it if my memory is right, for uh three days or two or a day. But one between one and three days he would brine it, uh wet brine, I believe, and then he would uh vacuum package it, d let it dry a little bit, then he would vacuum package it, and I think here's the key to why his thing was so good.
+
+[13:31] Uh he wouldn't pre-sear, he would press it. And he pressed it for a long time and let it cool down to get the skin nice and flat, I think, and to get all the meat together. Then he would cook it for like 72 hours at a pretty low temperature. I don't know what he did, probably sixty or something like that. Uh and then or sixty-two, somewhere in there.
+
+[13:50] And then uh he pulled it out, and then he would crisp it like a duck breast. And so I think he would. This is what I would have done. This is my memory of it. Uh he he he he you know and he would crisp it uh on the skin side and I think just like let the heat carry carry it over.
+
+[14:05] Uh I've done it a bunch, I've never done uh all the I've never taken all the care that Wiley did to do it. We've done much more kind of off the cuff long cooked ones, because we weren't doing it for restaurant service, but the key in this thing is crisping the skin. And what you're if you pre-sear it, my fear is that you're not going to have a very flat piece of skin, and it's gonna be hard for you to get a really good sear on it. So when you when you have a piece of meat and you don't do the pressing, especially on pork, and you really need that sear to get it crunchy. If you have a lot of undulations in the skin when it's against the pan and it's and it's rendering out, you'll get these blonde spots on the bottom that aren't crunchy and they're just not as satisfying as the rest of it where it's like all hyper crunchy and delicious.
+
+[14:42] Yeah? Yes. Yeah. Okay. Uh we got a we got a uh a write-in from our one of our earliest cooking issues readers back when the blog was working, Schinderhannis.
+
+[14:54] And uh and Schinderhannis, very good to hear from you. Happy New Year. This is your loyal uh loyal follower, uh Shinderhannis. It seems that the world has to accept the fact that you don't have the time and resources on hand to keep the world's best food blog cooking issues alive and well fed on new entries. But now your blog is completely unavailable.
+
+[15:10] I used it as an important online resource and I'm missing it badly. Are you planning to publish it as an online blog archive? Please do so. That would be great news. Otherwise, I'll promise to buy any book you're working on.
+
+[15:20] Uh and then he says as a third alternative, he'll uh leave in a huff and turn to Campbell's soup for the rest of his useless life. Wow. Schinderhannis. And he ends it, yeah, he's he's a good man. We he ends it in uh Freundlichrusa, which is I guess you know, best regards, friendly greetings uh off Deutsche.
+
+[15:35] Uh Dr. Johannes Kerbering. Okay, well, Shinderhannis, I I've said this a million times, but like honestly, people need to know out there, like we're literally waiting for people to flip the right switches. It seems preposterous, but we don't have control of the blog yet, and we're working on it in a hardcore way. Not really.
+
+[15:53] I'm not working on it at all. But we have other people who are theoretically working on it. Is that true? Yeah. So do we have like a We have a Paul working on it.
+
+[15:58] Paul doesn't have a date. Paul's still figuring it out. Oh my, you know, it's like it's like if we just went into selling Cialis, none of this would have happened. We could have just split it with whoever hacked us wherever they are, you know what I mean? And just like, you know, kept on running, but you know, it's it wasn't to be we're going to get the information.
+
+[16:15] I I can promise this, the information will be back online. Uh I have hopes that you're right, I don't have time to do what I was doing back then. Uh maybe we can find some people. The the real problem is is that it's hard to find people who want to write things uh kind of the way that I want them written. But this kind of ties into another question uh not a question, a comment.
+
+[16:37] Steve Crandall wrote in and he said he he he's giving us a point out to another blogger uh and his name is Greg Blonder, the blogger. I don't know him. Do you know him? No. No.
+
+[16:46] Greg Blonder is a friend and colleague, a physicist who's playing with food a bit. You may enjoy some of his online articles. And I read these articles on diffusion uh and brining and it's some of the best writing on brining that I've ever seen on the internet. And uh you want to g you guys everyone who listened to this I think would enjoy it. Uh www dot genuine ideas dot com.
+
+[17:08] Uh and so uh he does lots of really awesome things. Like he's testing brining and he uh it he in order to test nitrite um nitrite penetration into uh into meats during uh during like brining with uh curing salts he bought uh nitrite um he went to an aquarium shop and bought a nitrite test paper for aquariums to test the nitrite level because uh of like what fish make nitrites when they're in there. And he was using it as blonder paper and testing the diffusion of nitrates into uh into meats, which was I thought like that is a freaking fantastic idea. And then he was using some sort of uh some sort of salt assay to literally paint the surface of meats after different uh brining things to see how far salt had penetrated in, which I thought was fascinating. And then uh something years ago that uh you know I tried to do uh unsuccessfully was to use uh dyes to try and look at br b brine penetration.
+
+[18:02] And that's when I bought a bunch of FNDC blue one, which if you put into gel caps and give people they will uh they won't know it necessarily, but they'll poop green. I'm not recommending you do that. I didn't do that, but I know that it works, but I didn't do it, right? Right. But uh Nastasha opened up the bottle of FNDC blue.
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+[18:18] I was like, I told her, I was like, I it came in the mail. I was like, Nastasha, do not open this, do not touch this. And just so you know, her nature, it's not in her nature to not fool around with stuff and like put fingernail marks and everything and everything and like mangle and mutilate. I knew she'd mess with this one because when I came back, her face was entirely blue. Entirely blue.
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+[18:36] Remember that? Yeah. And I was like, I didn't touch it. I hear I didn't touch it. I was like, and I showed her the mirror, she's like, oh, anyway, so uh but the problem with FNDC blue is that FNDC blue is uh rather large compared to things like salt, and so it and it also it it's not you know it doesn't work the same way.
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+[18:52] But uh this guy that I don't know, but probably like to meet, Greg, is um showed a really interesting result, which was that if you brine with acid, it actually uh kind of forces the meat fibers apart and then allows larger things like the blue dye to penetrate further into the surface of the meat, but not very far. Fascinating stuff. And then even more fascinating on this uh on the subject of brining, and this is something that I hadn't heard before. Uh this was new to me and opened up a whole world is that you know you get X amount of brine penetration, salt penetration over time during a brine, but then the actual cooking process pushes the brine further into the meat, and he shows it with these tests that are relatively conclusive and like really cool images. So uh Steve, thanks for pointing that out.
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+[19:37] And uh break. Well, I'll start. These Steve, thanks for pointing that out, and uh, and uh, I'm sure I'm gonna go read a whole bunch of other people go uh read that stuff too. So, with that, we're gonna take a birth commercial break. The International Culinary Center is a proud sponsor of the Heritage Radio Network dot org.
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+[21:04] The ICC with locations in New York and California provide cutting-edge education to future chefs, restaurateurs, and wine professionals. We're proud to claim Dan Barber, Bobby Clay, and David Chang among our honored alumni. This is Dorothy Can Hamilton from Chef's Story. Check out our ICC website at International Culinary Center.com. Every Wednesday at noon, Dorothy Can Hamilton, founder and CEO of the International Culinary Center, interviews the top chefs in the world on Chef Story.
+
+[21:36] Here from chefs like Christina Tosy. I'm gonna be the best pastry cook this restaurant's ever seen. Francis Malman. Cooking with fire is it's very feminine, it's very fragile, and Jacques Pepin. That one invited to welcome the White House for John Kennedy.
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+[21:51] Learn how the greats become great. Every Wednesday at 12 p.m. on Chef Story at Heritage Radio Network.org. Hello, and welcome back to Cooking Issues. We have a caller.
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+[22:03] Caller, you're on the air. Hi David, this is Johnny Cart from Memphis, Tennessee. How are you doing? Doing alright yourself? I'm doing good.
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+[22:12] I had a question about uh uh cookery and surveyed the yolks. Okay. Uh rigged up some PVC pipe. You know, of course cleaned it out real good, and put some acetate um, you know, inside of there. Right.
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+[22:33] And put saran wrap around the bottom. Um put egg yolks in there. And I thought I had secured it. Um with the other side with saran wrap all around. Right.
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+[22:50] And I cooked it at what is it uh uh sixty four degrees for about an hour right and it came out running right so though here's the thing the c a couple things the one of the weird things about egg yolks is that uh they don't cook at the same temperature when you crack them out as they do when um as they do when you um um cook them in the shell and I don't really know why uh I've tried to like wonder whether or not it's like there's a the the slight the basic nature of uh egg white I don't really understand why you'd think that being surrounded by the egg white would actually raise the temperature at which it coagulates because the base there is uh is going to weaken the protein but uh for some reason egg yolks um are they they set at a different temperature outside of the um outside of the the shell uh the other thing is is that if you add salt or sugar then you drastically change the temperature at which the egg yolks uh set now I've never done a full set of experiments to figure out but like before I would um go through all the trouble that you're doing I would I would just like uh take some egg yolks almost uh in ramekins at different temperatures and see at what temperature you can get them to set uh fully outside of the shell but I'll tell you it is different it might also be different a whole egg yolk out of the shell in other words a separated egg yolk that's not broken versus one that's been mixed with a fork. I don't know whether or not it's gonna be different or not because I I never run the full set of tests. This is one of the original years ago things that Wiley was asking uh Harold McGee when we were doing the original Harold McGee class at the French culinary. And I never really said I never really got a satisfactory answer for what was going on. I just know that the temperature is different.
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+[24:44] The other thing I'll add is that uh I wouldn't uh I wouldn't trust uh the PVC even with the cleaning you know at this point nobody really knows uh what the plasticizers do uh to us or to people that we're serving but you know everyone knows the PVC does have plasticizer in it and then no matter how well you wash it it will leach out over time especially into fatty things like like an egg yolk. So if you're getting direct con I mean I know you have acetate in there and so there's probably not a lot of direct contact but you know I I at this point try to shy away from PVC when um when I can. Even though you know what though for tests you know it there's nothing beats it 'cause it's so cheap and so easy to work with. You know what I mean? Um but I would definitely say you're gonna want to jack the temperature higher did you add salt or sugar to it?
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+[25:32] I did not I did one I did about three tests. I did add salt to the second one. I didn't add salt to the uh first one what what would be the I guess the best conduct is it conduction to the PVC pipe? Well it's in other words like stops it's not that it's not that the PVC I mean the PVC is a bad conductor that's true right but it's not that the it's not that the PVC was a bad conductor I think it literally is that you need to jack the temperature higher. Uh I would try I'm trying to remember what Wiley used to do.
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+[26:12] Wiley used to do um he would make uh egg tubes in uh in um vac bags. He would make tubes out of vacuum bags and then seal them off and cook the egg yolks that way. And I'm gonna wanna say he had to put it as high as seventy Celsius to get it to work exactly the way he wanted to. So I think you're gonna need to it's uh although P V C is a bad conductor, I think you're gonna want to go higher, like up almost up to about seventy degrees C and then if that sets too hard for you, then you might want to pull it back. But I believe that in his old um I forget which dish it was where you had the egg tubes like that, but uh I think that they were done up at seventy when they were done out of things.
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+[26:51] I don't know. Um okay so yeah how how would he go about setting them in a in a uh bag where it's circular. Yeah well he they were I think what he would doing was he was uh like uh putting them in a in like he he was sealing the bag almost like flavor ice pops and then like you know injecting them full and then cutting off the ends where they were pillow shaped. But I mean like there's a bunch of things you could do. You could get test tubes.
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+[27:20] The question is how would you get them out of the out of the other sides. Uh you know, if you I think the technique that you're using as a test w would be fine. I mean you might want to move to like uh like an acetate line stainless steel pipe or something like that. You know what I'm saying? Something that's a little more that is a better conductor and also it's definitely food grade.
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+[27:38] So if you go to like McMastercar dot com you could I don't know what size you're using, but I'm guessing you're probably using like half inch or three quarter P V C something like that. Uh and if you yeah and if you're if you're doing that you can get something with the same internal diameter made out of like three oh four stainless that's you know uh seamless on the inside, smooth bore and thin and you can buy like a one foot length of it. You can cut it with a hacksaw into two six inch lengths. And you know, you can probably get that for in the range of fifteen bucks or something, something on that order, especially uh you know, and it's gonna be completely non-reactive and if you line that with acetate you should be able to pull it out fine, you know? And then uh you know and then if you don't have to make too many of them and then and the good thing about those things is you you can use them an infinite number of times they're a hundred percent food grade and you know they won't break and you you know you'll have them forever.
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+[28:25] What was the website you said? Oh McMaster.com which is McMaster Car. And it's one of the they charge a little more than other people do like a lot more like 30% more but the great thing is they have something like four or five warehouses all over the country and so they're never more than uh one day uh you know usually I mean at least you know most places I've been they're never more than one ground day away so if you order by six PM whatever your local time is then it usually it shows up UPS ground the next day. I'm also I'm also getting some air in there because they're floating um I don't know whether I need to come straight out of the fridge or or freeze them and then put them in the car in the PVC or the um you know the correct uh vessel right well if you if you have if you freeze them they'll be almost solid. If you freeze and thaw an egg the uh egg yolk they'll be almost solid the problem is you'll get a little bit of greening on them the color's never quite right after you freeze the egg yolk at on on the membrane on the outside and if you mix it that'll probably be uh ameliorated somewhat but if you're using something like a stainless steel tube uh you what's f you should if you have your vacuum machine this is always a fun experiment to run put uh put a bottle in there with a cap on it real loose so that if you if you if the caps on it, it's uh it you know the stuff will spill out of it, and then put uh put liquid into the bag with the bottle, and when the air comes back in, all the liquid will be shot into the bottle, which is it's a hilarious experiment to watch because literally the liquid liquid's forced in.
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+[30:03] So if you were to if you were to put stainless steel tubes with a little bit of extra egg yolk into uh into a uh vacuum bag, then the egg yolks will shoot themselves into the tube. Okay. So you're cutting out of me a little bit. I can go back and listen to what you said. But uh, so it won't float.
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+[30:26] What's the best uh thing to do to not float? Oh well, uh Hervé at the French culinary, his technique whenever he was doing a hand wrap of something that wasn't in a vacuum machine is he would just take a couple of stainless steel like uh butter knives or spoons and do a couple of wraps of cellophane with the uh with the butter knives or spoons and those suckers will sink right to the bottom. Alright. Um other advice you can give me on this or anything else? No, I think that should work.
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+[30:57] Like uh try it up at 70, and if it's too hard for you, start scaling back. But I would do your next test at 70 degrees Celsius. Uh, and I would, like I say, vac bag it and you go back and listen to it. Hopefully you can hear if you vac bag it, you the vacuum machine should push the eggs literally into the tube for you. Uh you know, and uh and that should that should work, that should work for you.
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+[31:16] But shoot shoot us uh uh Twitter at uh shoot us a tweet rather at uh at cooking issues if you're having more problems and we'll uh we'll give you some pointers. Alrighty. Okay. Thanks, Dave. All right, good luck.
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+[31:26] All right, you too. Uh okay. So uh we had a question in from uh Barry Munkasey. Uh happy New Year's cooking issues team. I bought an immersion circulator about six months ago, but I have not uh but I have not done a multiple hourslash days recipe.
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+[31:42] The circulator came with a free camware professional container, but no top. I'm concerned about excessive heat loss and evaporation when it is unattended for a significant number of hours. Which would be better? Polypropylene balls, like the ping pong balls, uh or the custom cut lid that the website sells or something else. Uh I'll hit this one first.
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+[32:00] So uh I use uh at home, I have the lid that's cut uh and that thing works great. If you don't have it, you should just wrap saran uh over, you know, uh plastic wrap over the top of it. Anything to prevent uh evaporation. And when I'm doing a long cook, you know, like long, long cook, I'll even wrap around the gap in my pre-cut uh top with saran to it and you get almost zero evaporation then. You can run a three-day cook without ever having to add water.
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+[32:29] I would keep checking it, obviously, because duh, right? But um, you know, but it's not a problem. And I've never used the ping pong balls. I've never seen anyone use the ping pong balls in the real life. I've heard of people buying the ping pong balls, and I've spoken to people who used to use the ping pong balls and no longer use the ping pong balls, but uh I've never known anyone who actually uses them.
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+[32:51] The ping pong balls are really good for uh electroplating businesses, right? Whereas or anyone who has a lot of a highly volatile chemical and you need to go in and out of the bath a lot, and so they prevent evaporation. When you're doing a long cook, you're not going in and out of the bath a lot. So the easiest thing to do is to just cover the whole thing with saran wrap or with it with a tight fitting lid, right? The only time you really need to be able to have those things is like I say, in when you're service going in and out.
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+[33:18] And during service, you don't need to necessarily have such a good uh lid on it, right? Because usually your reheat temperatures aren't as important as your cooking temperatures. So if you get like a like one degree cooler at the top, it's not such a big deal. And you can just go in with tongs and pull the stuff out and not have to worry about these ping pong balls getting all over your kitchen, going to your dishwasher, getting lost, you know, I don't know, your dog swallowing it or whatever. You know what I mean?
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+[33:42] So I don't know anyone who bought the ping pong balls and loved them enough to keep uh working with them. You can buy, I don't know how much they charge. I've never purchased in my life a pre-cut lid. You know, I always buy a lid and I use a hacksaw. Uh I think that they've changed it back in the day when they used to pre-cut the lids, they would cut the lid in the center of the thing, which is a waste of space in your cambro.
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+[34:03] So I would always cut the lid on the on in the corner. Here's another tip for you. If you buy an extra lid, and this is gonna be uh, you know, I don't know whether you're using this at home or or whatever, but if you're if you what I used to do, still do around New Year's or Christmas, whenever I have a big party, I would take my my lid and I would saw with a hacksaw uh holes to fit round bane marie's in it, and then I would uh drill holes so that I could uh put a spring and pull them down, and I would put stainless steel bane maries. So I would literally have parties where I had sliders staying hot in the circulator that I could reach in through a little, you know, gap I'd cut in the lid, and then I would have like queso dip in one and chocolate fondue in the other, all running out of the same circulator, all kept hot. So you know, you know, have cambro lid and some ingenuity and a saw, and you can get a whole bunch done.
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+[34:50] Uh okay, second, my department. I don't know what department, you didn't say what department. Department in what? I don't know, like what? We'll say it's purchasing.
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+[34:58] I have no idea, right? Anyway. Uh second, my department annually has a why is it always like purchasing as a department you think about? Because they do they get to do the cool stuff, right? They get to buy all the stuff, yeah.
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+[35:06] Purchasing. Yeah. Yeah. Purchasing. Okay.
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+[35:09] Uh, second, my department annually has a soup contest for the governed uh coveted golden ladle. I have made chicken gumbo, shrimp bisque, matzo ball soup. I love matzo ball soup. Do you like matzo ball soup? I've never had it.
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+[35:20] Never? Never. Do you know that that uh that's crazy? We should like someone out there has to invite uh Nastasha along with her Mutra friends and maybe Mark over for like matzo ball soup, right? Yeah.
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+[35:32] Yeah, yeah. Because I think you would like it a lot. What's not to like? Do you like you've had you had matzo balls, but only only the mutant sweet one I made. Yeah.
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+[35:40] I made a mutant sweet matzo ball because I was working on a matzo ball. I was working on a matzaball uh uh drink. It didn't work. We didn't end up using it, but it was all based on uh it was all based on this uh we use this kind of like nice uh Japanese whiskey called Yamazaki. And so the joke was we were gonna make a drink called Yamakazaki that was Yamazaki with a sweet maple syrup malt matza ball in it.
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+[36:03] And I made uh the matzo balls were actually quite good. I'd never had a kind of sweet matzo ball before. Uh but they they were good, but the drink was just awful. Did you have that one? Yeah.
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+[36:13] It's terrible, right? Who are we doing that for? We're just we're seeing if we can do it. Really? Mm-hmm.
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+[36:20] Anyway, it didn't work. We didn't so for those of you out there like uh know that we were unsuccessful in our matzo ball uh cocktail. But you might be more successful, but anyway, uh uh be that as it uh matzo ball soup, corn chowder. I like corn chowder. Do you like a corn chowder?
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+[36:36] I like a corn chowder, corn chowder, good part, amongst others, and I finished second so many times that they felt bad for me two years ago, and they gave me the golden spork as a consolation prize. What's the name of that person from all my children? Suzanne Lucci? Susan Lucci. Susan Lucci.
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+[36:50] So he's like the Susan Lucci of of soup in the purchasing department. Uh this year, uh, with what I thought was a delicious Asian chicken and corn soup, I finished completely out of the running, and so now have even lost a golden spork. I have eight months to tinker and experiment to come up with this year's winning entry and would like to take a modernist cuisine approach. Could you provide me with a syllabus for success? Uh and finally I hope that one of your new year's resolutions is that you will uh that you accomplish will be fixing and updating the blog, Barry McCasey.
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+[37:19] Okay. Here's the thing. I think your problem is is if the first thing first thing you should do is never enter contests. I've learned this because it's only heartbreak. Barry, it's only heartbreak.
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+[37:31] Uh the other thing is that if you look at it, right, you had discouraged him. I'm not discouraging him. I'm just saying I don't enter contests. I don't like them. I don't enjoy them.
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+[37:39] Except for eating contests, which I always win. But the the uh but here's the thing, right? So let's let's look at this. So the Asian chicken and corn soup, I don't know your audience. Like you have to know your audience, right?
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+[37:51] So, you know, you can have the best tasting, most nuanced thing in the world, and if you show up and your audience wants, you know, you you should you show up with I'll I'll give you an example. I did an event once and uh with Nils, and uh Nils and I had spent like a a lot of time making fresh clarified, uh really good apple juice. I think we were using, I think we were using Ashmeat's kernel, which is uh my favorite apple, and um fennel, and we had you know clarified these things uh and then balanced it with gin and uh we had a little clarified uh you know lime juice in it, we carbonated it, we'd done all this work, and uh and it was frankly, it was a good drink. You know what I mean? Uh you know, one of our best, I think, that we did.
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+[38:36] And we went to an event and it was uh it was a Chardonnay crowd. You know what I mean? And so we showed up. It's like it's like bringing uh you know, you bring in the wrong tool to the job, you know what I mean? So like here we are, and and you know what that is?
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+[38:49] Depressing. And that's actually the event that caused me to learn that what you the most important thing to do is to know your audience and to create a slam dunk for that audience. That said, you also have to make it interesting for yourself. So otherwise you're not gonna be you're not gonna be interested. You know, if you're just cranking out, you know, if what they want is Chef Boy RD, it's still not going to be interesting if you're just cranking open cans of Chef Boy RD and pouring it into a into a bucket, which reminds me of my Uncle Ralph.
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+[39:16] What am I? I asked my my uncle Ralph asked said something to me once, and I was like, Well, you know, I don't know why. He goes, he goes, What do I look like? Chef Boy R D. I was like, kind of Uncle Ralph.
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+[39:25] You look kind of like freaking Chef Boy RD. He doesn't really, because if Chef Boy RG was D was from Jersey, my Uncle Ralph would look like Chef Boy R D. I love Uncle Ralph. Anyway, so uh uh and he talks kind of like that. I love Uncle Ralph.
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+[39:37] Anyways, uh so know your audience. Secondly, the question is what are you gonna do, uh modernist? I think now Nastasha doesn't like these because she doesn't like a lot of the flavors that we did when we did it, but the concept is sound. And I think uh nut milks are make a very, very good base for a soup. So you can take a traditional soup that is really good and switch it out for a uh like a nut a nut milk base, so a pistachio milk, a cashew milk, or a uh, you know, an almond milk, any one of these kind of like and and and you don't have to have uh really expensive equipment to do it.
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+[40:11] I do it in a centrifuge because I have one, but you can um you can just blend it, you know, in in a blender with hot, you know, super hot water and then strain it through uh you know muslin to get the milk out of that makes a really good base, but it sounds like you know, if they didn't like the Asian thing, I mean yeah, I don't know what they want, you know what I mean? Um, you know, you can use uh you know, make your own stocks, obviously, with like you know, uh with a pressure cooker as long as you have a non-venting one. I would look up um everything in modernist cuisine on on stock making um on soups, but really like you need to get back with me on what style of soup you think is going to be the one that they're gonna go for because that's the first choice. You know, then make making it making it kick butt is the next thing. There's no sort of all like catch-all like b best soup idea.
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+[40:56] It's more like you know, what's your goal? And then we can brainstorm towards getting there, right? Yep. Okay. Uh okay.
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+[41:04] Jeff on uh baking steel and Indian cookbooks. First time caller, longtime listener, love the show. You've made the process of cooking and learning about food extremely enjoyable and exposed me to people, equipment, and techniques I would likely never otherwise have known. That's nice. She actually had a smile.
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+[41:22] It was her I'm going to kill everyone's smile, but it was still a smile. You know, that I call that that's uh that's improvement. That's your new you know, by the way, our New Year's resolution. I think uh, you know, Jack was here uh and he did not like it was to uh yell at each other less. I think we've so far it's been like a day, but no, it's been a week.
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+[41:37] Yeah? Yeah. Yeah? Yeah. What do you think?
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+[41:39] Good job, guys. Yeah, yeah, nice. Uh okay. You've inspired you've been he's like, Jack's like, why the hell would you not want to yell at each other? Yeah that's all the fun.
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+[41:48] Yeah, for 45 minutes. Yeah, yeah. You've inspired me to do a lot more cooking at home and more importantly, to really love it. That's really nice. I like that.
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+[41:54] A couple of questions. I just obtained a baking steel and love the results I'm getting with the modernist cuisine at home Neapolitan pizza dough recipe. What procedure and or recipe do you recommend for sauce on a standard Neapolitan pie? And two, do you have a quick Indian cookbook recommendation? I'm looking for something reliable but extremely basic.
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+[42:12] I'd like to read about ingredients uh technique and have some solid recipes for the basics you see in almost every Indian restaurant. Uh okay. Let me hit uh and then there's a third question I'm also gonna hit, but uh let me hit the Indian one first. I actually only own uh one Indian cookbook, and uh I bought it when I was in my early twenties, right after I graduated from college. Uh and it's called and it's really it's old, it's from the 80s.
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+[42:36] It's called uh uh by Yamuna Devi. It's called The Art of Uh Indian Vegetarian Cooking. And at the time it was this huge encyclopedic uh book, which is why I bought it. Uh and it's not gonna be it's not like simple by any means, but uh, and so I was like, wow, and I read it and it made a huge impression on me. Uh you know, but I thought maybe it's gonna be really, really dated.
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+[42:58] So I went to Amazon.com and I looked up uh and I looked it up and it was been it's been re-released and it still gets really good ratings. So in other words, people it's not as dated as I thought. I didn't have time to go back and reread it. But it focuses mainly on uh Indian vegetarian. Now, over the past ten years or so, I find that I very rarely buy um, I very rarely buy cookbooks on whole genres like that unless I already know nothing about them and I'm just trying to get a flavor for it, right?
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+[43:28] So in general, I would buy cookbooks that are on very specific regions or by a specific author that I want to uh work with. When I'm researching ingredients, uh like black salt, for instance, which is a really interesting uh Indian ingredient, or when I'm researching acetate, a hing or any of these things, I tend to r do a lot of internet research and not buy books, or if I buy books, they're technical books or um, you know, technical papers or historical papers. So I don't have very current knowledge. That said, obviously Matter Jaffery is very well known uh cookbook writer, uh, and I think she has some uh shorter books that might be good places to start, but I'd love someone to tweet in what their recommendations are uh on this on this subject. Um anyway, so I'm sorry I couldn't be more more of help with that, but just to give you an idea of how how I work usually, it's uh I'll I won't buy unless I know a writer is someone I really want to read, or unless it's entirely new to me, I tend not to buy that kind of cookbook.
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+[44:23] Also, but anyway, whatever. Uh on the baking steel, I know I've never used uh I spoke to Chris when they they were uh going into some sort of uh manufacturing when Monero's cuisine was going into some sort of manufacturing deal. I think it was with Chris. I think Chris was still with him at the time. With some guy in uh in uh New England who's making the steels for them.
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+[44:39] But the theory is that instead of using a baking stone, uh, what you can do is use this steel, and the steel has this same sort of heat wallop into your uh pizza dough that you and more at lower temperature and faster heating than a stone, and so use a steel instead of a stone. Uh I've never used it, so I don't really know about it. And as I like I'm all I'm all about not answering your questions today. I apologize. Uh apologize, Jeff.
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+[45:03] But the uh the uh I don't you do standard Neapolitan at home. My oven goes up between uh 840 and like 875, 880 Fahrenheit. Uh and I have two independent st independently heated stones, one in the bottom of my oven and one in the top of my oven plus gas. So when I'm making a pizza, I'll typically do a fairly I don't do as high hydration dough as like Jeffrey Steingarden recommends. I spoke to Jeffrey like what, two weeks ago, a few weeks ago, we saw him.
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+[45:34] And uh and I asked Jeffrey at that time, I was like, Jeffrey, do you still stand by your very high hydration pizza dough recipe for his his style of pizza? And he does. So if you go back, and you know, all of Jeffrey's stuff, even if you disagree with even if you disagree with him, uh, his writing is great. So go back and read his like high hydration dough. But I typically don't do a high hydrate super high hydration dough for my pizzas.
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+[45:56] I'm typically like, I don't know, 65% hydration, i.e. 65 uh 65 uh grams of water per 100 grams of flour in that ratio and a fairly high salt load, like uh like uh two 2% or something like that. Uh salt, I do very low yeast and I let it rise for a long time. So my typical thing is is that the evening before I'm gonna make pizza, I'll uh blend uh the you know, I'll do initially like a hundred percent hydration to get everything hydrated and then maybe let it sit for a little while with a very small amount of yeast. So if I'm making like four kilos of dough, I'll use one yeast packet, something like that.
+
+[46:33] Uh and then uh and then I'll I'll put the rest of the flour in with the salt, and then I'll break them into individual dough things, put them in quart containers, uh, you know, like a quarter full, and then and then let them sit for a couple of minutes to start and then throw them in my fridge and retard them overnight, pull them out like two, three hours, three hours before I'm gonna use them, and that's my typical dough, and it works pretty well. For sauce, I don't do anything that is uh traditional at all. I usually do uh I cook tomato paste and then uh blend in uh garlic and sometimes caper, and if I don't have vegetarians over anchovies uh and olive oil, and that's my usual uh style saucepase for red, or I'll pressure cook a whole bunch of garlic and uh blend it with uh uh in milk and then blend it along with the curd from the milk, olive oil, and basil. Um I usually put some onions in that too. Uh blend that for my for my green.
+
+[47:23] Uh I have a bunch of different ones, but I don't have any traditional kind of sauce. But the the one key thing is just don't add too much sauce. You know, small amount of sauce goes. You want a small amount of a very flavorful sauce so you don't waterlog your dough. I think that's the that's the key, and as high heat as you possibly can.
+
+[47:37] And that and someone's gonna be like, that guy knows nothing about pizzas. But I do make a whole boatload of pizzas. And the people seem to eat them. They seem to eat them. Just don't load it down.
+
+[47:45] The trick is not to load it down. Focus on the bread and don't load down. Focus on the quality of the crust and don't load it down with too much sauce. What do you think? Yeah.
+
+[47:53] Oh, if you're gonna use uh fresh, uh super fresh mozzarella, I get sp I I go to when I get it, I get from DiPalos and I ask them for the the it's still fresh, but uh fairly dense. It has a lot of the water squeezed out, so it doesn't make too much uh water. Be very careful with adding too much high water mozzarella to uh a cheese uh to a pizza because it can really water water log it out. So I mean people who use it, I think they use it sparingly, right? And they're doing it very quickly in an oven.
+
+[48:18] Whatever, but just be careful. Uh I mean not gonna hurt anyone. Okay, third, I'd like to start experimenting with adding salt to cocktails. If I keep salt solutions in a small dropper bottle, is there any downside to keeping those for a long period of time? Is there any degradation or food safety issue?
+
+[48:31] Also, what concentrations do you recommend starting with for cocktails? And can you recommend a specific drink where adding a bit of salt has a profound effect? We use 200 grams of salt per liter of water. Uh so uh, and that solution ain't nothing happening to it. We store it on the bar unrefrigerated for infinity, and there's no problem.
+
+[48:47] And we usually add one or two drops of that uh per cocktail, and um and that's about it. We add that that. Okay. No, that's it. What?
+
+[48:58] Alright, Daniel from Illinois. I will go into depth in my fried chicken technique next time. And if I have time, I'll tell you guys how I do my new lobster technique, which I think is really good. Uh, till next time, happy new year. Cooking Issues.
+
+[49:20] Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization.
+
+[49:44] To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by the International Culinary Center. Offering courses that range from classic French techniques in culinary, pastry, and bread baking to Italian studies to management. From culinary technology to food writing, from cake making to wine tasting. For more information, visit International Culinary Center.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn.
+
+[0:23] If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Cooking issues! Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. Coming back at you live, and Jack is back today. Hey.
+
+[1:12] How you doing? Happy New Year, Jack. You too, man. Hey, I've got a standing offer out to the guy who made that theme song. Uh, you're welcome to come re-record it here anytime.
+
+[1:20] Really? Hang out? Yeah. Maybe during the show? Yeah, we just need a better recording of that song.
+
+[1:25] I mean, you're the audio guy. What's wrong with it? I don't know. A little garagey. It's it's great though.
+
+[1:30] What the hell? What the hell? I like it. Whatever. Anyway, alright, well, happy new year anyway.
+
+[1:35] Also. Uh Joe in the studio and as usual, Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. What's up? Nothing. Oh, you know.
+
+[1:44] Live Tuesday radio show. So I'm gonna make it announcement. This is this is for Nastasha out there, people, because I also have a question to one of our listeners. Alright, go first. Go first, go.
+
+[1:53] My mom sent me a text and said, I would really like it if you knew Billy Joel. So if he's listening. If Nastasha helped me out. If Billy Joel is listening, that's a safe bet that this is not gonna happen. That's like more like if anyone listening has ever seen Billy Joel.
+
+[2:10] I've actually seen him live. I saw him live in this. Did you talk to him? He was not talking to anyone. He was at a food event like a number of years ago, and he was with uh, you know, Katie Lee, and she was the she was the person in charge.
+
+[2:21] He was just kind of standing in the background looking kind of irritated. But you know, not as irritated as when he pushed that piano off the stage. What was that? Russia? Really?
+
+[2:29] Wasn't that Russia? Are you guys out Billy Joel fans? There was that time he drove a car into a house, though. I love that. You're ruining my chances by bringing up.
+
+[2:35] No, that's all good. Okay, well, like sorry, Billy, we love you. Come on, man. I mean, like, I grew up, like Glass Houses was like one of the most uh influential albums of my uh of my youth. And I'm from Long Island, so there's that.
+
+[2:48] You practically are Billy Joel. That's right. Oh man. So anyway, so uh so okay, Nastasha, that was good sharing. Good sharing.
+
+[2:58] So uh this is one so uh um Nastasha never believes that we're gonna actually do anything ever unless we force ourselves to have uh deadline. So here it is. We're forcing ourselves to have uh a deadline. My deadline is that in one month's time, uh Booker and Dax Equipment Corporation will be filming uh uh our first Kickstarter for our first project. And we'll have it out in a month and a half.
+
+[3:20] Now listen, I'm not saying that you listeners should uh contribute to the Kickstarter when it comes out. Contribute to the Kickstarter. But uh I am saying you should tell everyone about it because we need to get uh this sucker funded. We're gonna start with a very simple to make uh for us, easy um piece of small equipment that anyone can buy that's not gonna be outrageously expensive, and we're hopefully gonna use uh that Kickstarter money to build that and also to fund uh our ability to hire someone, help us get some of our more complicated stuff out there. Think rotovab.
+
+[3:52] But no, we're not doing the roto vap on the first one. That's extremely complicated, but I'm just saying, like that's what we're that's what we're looking to do. So uh our deadline, our deadline now, and you can call us on it and call us bad people like you haven't already, uh, if we don't make it in a month and a half, right? Yes. And what is a month and a half from now?
+
+[4:07] It's like it would be March first. March first? No, April. March, April. Yeah, March 1st.
+
+[4:12] Well yeah, man. Okay, March 1st. So my birthday month. Woohoo! Right?
+
+[4:17] Anyway, okay. Uh so you think it's gonna work? You think we're gonna if we have a deadline, I think it'll work. Yes. So you have a deadline.
+
+[4:23] Wow. If n you know, listen, let me tell you something. If uh if Nastasha is not overtly pessimistic, it means that uh it means that we're probably in a We always have open-ended deadlines. Always. Always.
+
+[4:36] Because you don't believe in them. In what? Deadlines. I know I know I do. I believe in uh certain deadlines are hard deadlines.
+
+[4:42] Like when I was in the art when I was in the art community like a billion and a half years ago, it's like, hey, look, uh a show is going up, and if the show isn't up, you're shafted. You know what I mean? Dinner is a good deadline. That's why I like cooking. Hey, you know what?
+
+[4:55] It's time for dinner. We have to have food on the table. Good deadline, right? These like I I like BS deadlines don't work for me because if I know something's BS, a BS deadline is someone saying X, Y, or Z has to happen when I know full well that not only will it not happen, this is what happened. Everyone makes fake deadlines in the in the world, right?
+
+[5:15] And it's like it here's the thing. So, so what? So people are like, I need X, Y, and Z by X, Y date, and you're like, okay, and if you don't have it, then what? And there is no then what? That's the problem.
+
+[5:26] There is no then what. You know? And that's the problem with most BS deadlines. And that ruins me sometimes, but sometimes it helps me because people have a tendency to make decisions and pull the triggers on things before they have all the data in hand. So I'd always rather uh, you know, get more data.
+
+[5:41] But that's that's why uh that's why probably I don't have a lot of money. Yes. Hey, speaking of deadlines, yeah, we've got great news for you. What's that? Starting next week, Greenhorn Radio will be moving to 4 p.m., which means cooking issues can go until one.
+
+[5:56] Oh yeah! We're gonna have a full hour of cooking issues for you people. That's right. Yeah. Happy New Year.
+
+[6:03] Happy New Year to all the people who have to listen to us. I don't know why I guess no one has to. No one's like, I hope no one's strapped down in a chair and forced to listen to us. By the way, how's the uh new hunting show going before us? Oh, it's awesome.
+
+[6:13] Yeah? Yeah, you gotta meet him. Next week he's doing a show on the second amendment. So it'll be pretty intense. Yeah?
+
+[6:19] Yeah. Well, you know, I'd like to talk to him at some point about uh low temperature cooking and hunting. Yeah, he talks a bit about uh cooking venison and all that stuff. So maybe we could do a double header one week. Yeah, all right, stick around.
+
+[6:31] Okay, listen, I'm gonna have to rip through this because I don't have an hour yet. Daniel from last week, I didn't get to you in Illinois. My fried chicken recipe. Dave has talked about making fried chicken using low temperature for insurance to cook the chicken through before breading and frying. Can you go into more detail about this method?
+
+[6:45] I've also heard him mention boneless fried chicken. Tell me more. All right, first of all, if you want my actual recipe, uh almost my recipe, almost exactly my recipe, uh, go to uh Food and Wine, uh, June 2003, and it's published on uh on the webs. Uh my Dave Arnold, that's my name. Uh, my buttermilk fried chicken recipe, and you can get the the recipe.
+
+[7:08] The only they make a couple of things, like in in that recipe, I don't think they tell you to completely bone out the uh chicken. Because but I you know I do that because my wife doesn't like to eat uh chicken off the bone. She hates it when I talk about that because she she thinks I'm making her sound puny, but I don't really care. It's not that I'm making her sound puny, she doesn't like to eat chicken off the bone, so why would I serve it to her that way? She's the most important customer I have.
+
+[7:28] If she doesn't like it that way, why would I make it that way? So uh what I do is I buy whole chickens, I uh cut off the breasts. Currently, now that I have small First, actually you cut off the leg and thigh in one piece uh on both sides. Then I separate the uh thigh from the uh drumstick at the knuckle with a knife, take the thigh, uh drag the thigh along the two sides of the bone, expose the bone, put the point of the knife underneath the bone, free it from both sides, uh, then cut off that little piece of like knuckle cartilage that sits on the thing. That's the thigh.
+
+[8:00] I then take the uh leg bone, take kitchen the drumstick, take kitchen shears, hold the fat part of the drumstick towards my face, put the shears into the into the knuckle area against the bone, and go snip, snip, snip, like four or five snips around the bone in a circular fashion. That cuts off a lot of the sinews. Then I take the shears, bam, and I cut off the uh the little nubbin at the end that you hold on to when you normally eat, and I reach into the other side, twist and pull out the bone along with some of the sinew and very little meat. The only trick there is making sure you don't uh flick bone fat fragments into the uh ball into the little leg ball when it's done. And the awesome thing about those is they fry up like little spheres, and you can eat straight through them.
+
+[8:40] You get no reddening of the meat around the bone because there ain't no bone. And you get a lot more because I hate looking at drumsticks. People are like, I love the drumstick, and then they pick up the drumstick and they only eat two or three bites off the meat because they don't want to gnaw on the bone. Nastasha. She's not even listening.
+
+[8:55] She's not even called. It's true though. It's true, right? Aren't you one of those people who like takes two or three bites off the drumstick, loves the drumstick meat but only takes two or three bites off of it? Yeah, sure.
+
+[9:06] Whatever. She's not a little bit of a big thing. I'm not gonna do that. Yeah, all right, right. Whatever.
+
+[9:09] Whatever, whatever. So then, so you have the boneless thigh and the boneless, uh, blah blah. And because I learned listening to Jackie Peeps, that's the Jacques Popin for all you folk out there. Uh, then I just like take out the uh wishbone really quickly with two slices and a yank, although Nils doesn't do that when he does it. I cut off the breast on both sides, leaving the um leaving the tender intact.
+
+[9:27] I don't bother. I used to take the sinew out. I don't bother anymore. I really don't. You know, that little sinew that runs along the tender, but some people still take it out, whatever.
+
+[9:34] And now that I have little kids, the breast is kind of too large, so I separate it in half because they some, you know, one likes the breast, the other one likes the dark meat. Dark meat's the best. Uh okay. So now you have the parts of the chicken boneless. Uh I used to do then a full marinade and milk with salt and sugar uh for four hours and then uh dry off on a rack and then uh fry at a fairly low temperature so that it cooks all the way through.
+
+[9:59] Now, instead of the brine procedure, uh I take the thighs, I find that they're too flat if they're uh let left flat, so I I fold them back into a full thigh shape so that they're a little meatier, uh, and tie them with one thing of uh string because I don't I don't take the time at home to meat glue it. You could meat glue it if you were doing it for a restaurant presentation. And then uh put them into ziplocks, uh ziploc bags with a small amount of salted sugared milk. Uh and then I cook them. I cook higher than I would like if a high-end people usually like their chick, super high-end people usually like their chicken a little bit lower temperature.
+
+[10:34] Most people like it a little bit higher, so if I was gonna cook for like some fancy low-temperature jockey, I would cook the thigh, the the wing, the thigh, and the uh drumstick meat to 65. At home, I honestly, that's Celsius. At home, I actually do 66 or 665 for about uh 45 minutes uh to an hour. I then drop the temperature down, I leave those guys in, I drop the temperature down to about 64 or 64 and a half. Uh you can do 63 or 64 on the on the dot, but again, I'll take it a little bit higher because like a lot of people like it, just that little bit more done.
+
+[11:13] Anyway, uh then I throw the breast the white meat in uh in zippies uh for another hour, pull it out of the bag, drain the milk, don't lose the milk, don't throw it away. That milk is awesome, like even though it's salty, if you combine that with another stock, it can make a good base for a sauce as long as the sauce doesn't have uh stock uh salt in it, right? So I save all those juices that come out of the zippy, and then I put the hot pieces of meat out on racks to let them flash off their extra moisture. That's the key to frying stuff out when you're gonna do low temp. Now the things are cooked uh all the way through, right?
+
+[11:46] Then I do uh flour, then a buttermilk egg uh along with baking soda, baking powder, and some spices. Uh salt you put the spices in the freaking buttermilk, not in the flour, because A, it's impossible to dose in the flour, and B, you're gonna throw a lot more of that flour away. Anyway, so uh flour into the buttermilk thing, uh back into the flour, and then fry at the higher temperature that you would normally use for french fries, potato chips, whatever else you're making that we wouldn't do potato chips that way, but anyway, French fries, onion rings, whatever else you're making that day. And that's what I do. And while that stuff is cooking off in the low temperature, I take the backs uh and uh all the other parts, hack them up into small pieces, sear them off, and then make a uh pressure cooked uh chicken stock.
+
+[12:27] So I usually, when I do fried chicken, I end up with a milk a salty milk stock that I can use uh in certain soup preparations, a regular stock, and then a boatload of fried chicken. Yeah? Yes. Okay. Uh Billy Rose writes in and says, oh, by the way, if you have questions, uh call in your questions to 7184972128.
+
+[12:46] That's 7184972128. All right, Billy Rose uh sent in a Twitter a little bit late for last week's show, but here we got it today. I said I'd get to it. Uh cooking issues, love the show. Uh the hammer is my hero.
+
+[12:56] She should be your hero. Yeah. Uh is this Billy Joel writing in? No, Billy Billy Rose, but uh close enough. Wow.
+
+[13:04] Nice. All right, strong. Uh the hammer is uh is my hero. Uh you meaning me. Uh you are a bubbles enthusiast.
+
+[13:10] Can you speak to the health benefits slash detriments of drinking them all the time? Uh I do drink them all the time. Uh and there are some people who I guess are concerned about people drinking only bubbles all the time. However, the good news is uh that I have not found any research to show that uh bubbly water hurts you. Uh in fact, uh there's a lot of studies that show that it can be that bubbly water, uh if it's a mineral water, can be somewhat beneficial.
+
+[13:35] I don't really believe those studies one way or the other. I don't believe and Nastasha's giving her giving her like someone just passed me a vegan dish head shake of of disdain, right? Right. Yeah. Uh but there is a st uh a couple of studies out there are interesting.
+
+[13:48] The one thing is to say it's let's separate for for a minute the stuff that's in a soda from uh carbonation. All right. So clearly, if if I I mean I'm pro, I'm not anti-soda, we've had this discussion about soda bands before. You shouldn't consume a boatload of uh of sugary soda. It should not be your primary form of hydration.
+
+[14:11] And I think the issue is when it becomes your primary form of hydration, right? Uh so the butt I drink mainly seltzer, which is, you know, and and a soda would be a treat. In fact, I tend to only drink well, whatever, I'm not gonna get into it. But the the issue, the only real health uh thing other than the whole discussion of sugar in a carbonated beverage is people who consume colas, whether they be sugared or not. Cola is uh one of the is is one of the things that's flavored with phosphoric acid.
+
+[14:38] And uh phosphoric acid is is characteristic, in fact, of colas, and it's that dry mineral uh acidity that you find in colas and all you like cola, right, Sas? Yeah. But you don't like phosphoric acid in most other things. Right. Yeah.
+
+[14:51] Um fair. Yeah. See, I didn't even go crazy on it. I think that's fair. Uh but if you make a cola without phosphoric acid, it doesn't taste like cola.
+
+[14:59] You're like, what is this BS cola rip both? Because it doesn't have that phosphoric acid mineral hit that you would normally get. Um phosphoric acid, I don't know whether the current data is is good or bad, but there's a lot of research that shows out there that uh women in particular who consume large quantities of phosphoric acid in the form of cola can have problems uh with uh bone density because there's a link between calcium depletion or at least uh absorption of calcium in the diet, and therefore uh you know, because you know that if you don't take in enough calcium that that your body removes calcium from your bones. Did you know that? And like for instance, if you're pregnant, if you don't take enough calcium, your baby wins and your body will remove calcium from your body and deposit it into the new baby's body.
+
+[15:41] Wow. Yeah, anyway. Uh so phosphoric acid can uh at least some of the research indicates that that they can have an effect. So, you know, you want to be sure that you have enough calcium if you're consuming boatloads of um phosphoric acid and you're a woman. And there are studies uh in 1994 that came out that showed that even I think girls can uh like when I say girls mean young girls, can get uh a higher incidence of fractures if they consume a lot of cola.
+
+[15:59] Um however, there was a carbonated soft drink uh test uh to see whether there's any risk of esophageal uh cancer, specifically adenocarcinoma. Came out in 2006 out of Sweden, and uh it was called uh carbonated soft drinks and risk of esophageal adenocarcinoma, a population-based control study. Uh, and it found no link. Uh in fact, it found a non-statistically significant uh decrease in the in uh esophageal cancer in the people who drank a lot of uh soda, uh a lot of carbonated drinks, but I'm not gonna report it because it's not statistically significant, right? Boom.
+
+[16:36] What do you think? Good? Good. And I'll tell you what, here's some health benefits. That stuff is delicious.
+
+[16:40] So I drink a lot of it. You have to force flat water down my throat. I love me some bubbly water. I think bubbly water is the most refreshing thing that has ever been created. And I drink a whole boatload of it, and I feel a lot better as a person.
+
+[16:53] So that's a good health effect. Yeah. Yeah. She's like, Yeah. You drink bubbly water.
+
+[16:57] Oh, yeah. We have seltzer on tap at the lab, I have seltzer on tap at home. You know, I I have my I don't know, it's a good product. Like uh, what's it called? The soda stream.
+
+[17:05] Although I don't use a soda stream. I think it's done a lot for bringing carbonated beverages to people's houses in a nice kind of easily deliverable package. They're everywhere now. I saw one in Best Buy. Yeah, they're everywhere.
+
+[17:14] That's crazy. You know, you go to people's houses now, and like you know, you hear the farting sound coming out of the kitchen, and you know they have the soda stream and they bust out the you know the farting sound? Mm-hmm. And uh and you're like, you know what? It's like I have my issues with it, like I don't think it's technically perfect, but it makes a good so sparkly water.
+
+[17:31] You know what the downside is? Most people don't filter the water that they put in the soda stream, so they put flawed, crappy chlorinated water into their soda stream, and it comes out flawed, crappy, chlorinated uh uh uh bubbly water. Anyway, whatever. Uh oh, interesting. Another should we take a break or should we keep going?
+
+[17:48] Let's take a break. All right, take a break, coming back with cooking issues! You're listening to Beyond Thunderdome by Diesel Boy on cooking issues on Heritage Radio Network.org. Today's program has been brought to you by the International Culinary Center, offering courses that range from classic French techniques and culinary pastry and bread baking to Italian studies to management, from culinary technology to food writing, from cake making to wine tasting. For more information, visit international culinarycenter.com.
+
+[18:52] Every Tuesday at 12 p.m. You can call food scientist Dave Arnold and ask any question you want. John from Chicago, you're on the air. Hey, hey, hey. Without glutamic acid, you die.
+
+[19:08] It is a matter of taste, but there's a lot more fat in sausage than you think. Get ahead of the curve. Tune into cooking issues every Tuesday at 12 p.m. on Heritage Radio Network.org. Holy crap, I sound like a nut.
+
+[19:21] Yes. I mean it doesn't make any sense to play that on your show, but that's we're running that on other shows, and I wanted to show it to you. Oh my god, it sounds like a lunatic. You are a lunatically. Here's the other thing, though.
+
+[19:31] Not really a food scientist. Have no degree in food scientists. What about no hammer? No hammer? No hammer?
+
+[19:41] For me to find a succinct clip of you on this show speaking from like more than a second would take a long time. No, she's this mistake. Right. Okay, that's how I'll end it. Nope.
+
+[19:51] This is a good time to address this, though. So no food scientists, what would you go with? I don't know. Well, you know. Like my my thoughts on myself aren't aren't publishable on the air.
+
+[20:00] I see. But uh I don't know. What uh Nastash will think of something. That's isn't that what you're isn't that part of your job? Figure out what we're called.
+
+[20:06] Um this is coming from the woman that hasn't thought of a title for herself in three years. Okay. That's her title in the uh in the uh in the Booker Dax Cooker cooking issues kind of pantheon. Air apparent. To what we don't know.
+
+[20:20] Listen, on the second commercial break, we've got to have one now because I gotta hear my fish is fish. I can't go a week without hearing my fish is fish. Right or wrong. Right or wrong. Alright.
+
+[20:29] Right. The answer to that is right. Right. Okay. Uh oh, I'm I met him in the bar.
+
+[20:34] Next next fellow. Uh Kyriako uhmoglue. I'm gonna pronounce that wrong. Someone write in and tell me how to pronounce that. Okay.
+
+[20:41] Um very interesting. Uh was talking to me uh about something on the Twitter. Um okay, so he can't consume grapefruit juice, right? Uh, because uh he has uh a problem with uh uh cytochrome uh P four fifty three A four, uh a K AKA C Y P three A four, which is an enzyme uh that is inhibited by grapefruit juice. And if uh that ha that's what that's the primary reason why grapefruit juice uh you can't take it if, for instance, you have uh are taking statins or certain other drugs.
+
+[21:17] Because this whole uh battery of enzymes, right, the um cytochrome P uh 450 series of enzymes uh does a lot to remove or to modify or to get rid of or to break down uh drugs that are taken into the system, right? A lot of them. And uh, like I say, grapefruit juice can affect it. And so that's why a lot of times if you're on certain medications, you can't have grapefruit juice. Uh interestingly, it's uh been uh the the compound in grapefruit juice um is uh bergamotin, along with some other things that are similar to bergamotin.
+
+[21:49] Bergamotin is the uh character one of the characteristic oils in bergamot, and we all know that bergamot's the main flavor in Grapefruit? Earl gray tea. Earl gray tea. Bergamot, the fruit is the main flavor in Earl Gray tea. It's what distinguishes Earl gray tea it's a flavored tea flavored with bergamot, peels.
+
+[22:08] Um so uh the question I always had, and I I'm not sure if it was ever addressed or not, is should you also abstain from Earl gray tea if you can't have grapefruit? Interesting question. I don't know if anyone knows the answer to it. Um however, I've also wondered whether or not uh clarification, specifically the clarification techniques that we use, whether or not they remove um whether or not they remove uh the bergamotin. I've never you know put it through a sample to test it to see whether it has, but um apparently um Kyriaco was able to uh uh to have this product you can't normally have, which would lead me to believe that we have removed whatever active principle it is, it shafts it, which means we probably have removed the bergamotin.
+
+[22:49] So that's uh seems to me to be an interesting uh finding. I don't have any uh equipment to uh further delve into it, but you know the the only issue is you could never use it as a technique to um you can never use it as a technique to make uh grapefruit juice that it drinks like regular grapefruit juice but is um free of the bergamoton because it doesn't taste this the clarified grapefruit juice doesn't taste the same as regular grapefruit juice. Now, you might be able to simulate it by taking, for instance, the pulp that comes out of great uh orange juice when they make pulp like pulpless uh orange juice and adding that pulp to a clarified grapefruit juice. I don't know. Interesting.
+
+[23:26] But anyway, uh I was super duper interested by that, so thanks for sharing that with me. Um Joseph W writes in uh on the Twitter at cooking issues, we'll listen to your show, and you mentioned duck milk, an emulsion of duck stock and fat. Seems cool, but what use would it be for? And you know what, Joseph? I just don't know.
+
+[23:45] I never thought of a good use for it. That's why I don't do it all the time. No, but you know what? Like to honestly, though, like you could make very thin uh soups, soups that have like a lot of mouthfeel without with very little fat. Like that's what it's good for.
+
+[23:57] The same way that milk adds a great mouthfeel and doesn't have a lot of fat, you could do the same thing with a duck milk, emulsify something in, make a uh a soup or a sauce that has really good mouthfeel without a lot of fat. But I, you know, I I it's the my homogenizer that I have is so horrible sounding that I very rarely uh do I uh dork with it, you know? Yeah. Um yeah, at this point I'm old enough, it doesn't bother me hardly at all, but seriously, I'm around enough people who are younger than me that they just run around. And I never had the little box shield that they sell now uh that you can put around it to um to make it a little more tolerable in the kitchen.
+
+[24:33] Okay. Uh Jonathan Hunter writes in. Uh hey David Nastasha, I have a question about how to get my smoker to get a little bit hotter. It is heated by electric elements at a max uh max temperature that I'm able to get in the box is around 210 degrees Fahrenheit. I have an external smoke chamber that doesn't give off much heat.
+
+[24:49] I use a Johnson control to regulate the temperature, but the elements inside are only able to push out so much heat. Um I'm trying to get the temperature up to about 250 Fahrenheit. The box is well insulated, so adding insulation won't help much. I'm thinking that some other kind of heat source is my solution. Just wondering if you have suggestions of how I can make this work.
+
+[25:06] Uh thanks, Jonathan Hunter. Okay, well, first thing you gotta do is you gotta look at the wattage of your uh heat element. Right. So I I'm assuming when you're the way you're talking about it, that you the way your setup works is you have an insulated box, maybe a fridge, I'm guessing, and then uh in the bottom of it you have a traditional smoker style hot plate setup, and then on the outside of it you have a smoke generator, and the smoke generator is generating its smoke, and then you have a thermocouple on the inside of the of the insulated box, the fridge unit that's attached to your uh hot plate, right? So in a system like this, assuming I have it right, what's going on is the smoke generator is generating smoke, and the smoke generator is relatively cool.
+
+[25:47] So you're ignoring it as a heating device, and you're doing all of your control via the hot plate that's on the inside of your uh insulated box slash fridge unit. Okay. If I'm not right, then my advice that I'm about to give you is not going to be accurate. Uh if I am right, right, then just get a bigger heating element, right? Just buy a bigger hot plate or add in um uh add parallel, not in series, add parallel another heating element to the control loop, assuming that the relays that are used to switch it off and on with your controller can handle the extra amperage that's going through it.
+
+[26:20] Also, like if you want to be strictly speaking, like pleasant about it, I would add a um I would add a plate over the top of the heating element so you're not getting any crazy radiant heat coming off of it to you know from the elements to kind of affect the the thing. You could add on the inside a very small fan to move the heat around, but I don't like adding, I don't want to add anything because it's gonna mess up probably the dampening and other things inside of your smoker. But if you need to, you can go something like that. But I'm not sure if I have your setup uh exactly right. But whatever, right?
+
+[26:53] Right. Okay. Uh Jesper writes in about tomato clarity. Hey Dave and Nastasha, my name is Jesper, and since I'm living in Sweden, it is more convenient to have my questions asked by email instead of calling into your show. Well, alright, fair.
+
+[27:08] Uh that said, my question is related to an application where I use a centrifuge but cannot fully achieve the result I'm looking for. Uh the background, the goal. I want to make a transparent tomato. Alright. We have a lot of people asking about tomatoes recently in the centerfuge, right?
+
+[27:23] Yeah, strange. Uh, my approach is to use fresh tomatoes that are first peeled. I've used canned whole peeled tomatoes uh with the juice uh remove, but that not to give the desired result, but this is of course related to the type of tomato, it's ripeness, etc. Also, you know, uh they add calcium to that, which strengthens the uh pectin and it's gonna make it harder for you to spin out. That's why they put calcium chloride into it, and that's why um that's why canned tomatoes are always firm no matter what, and why if you self-can a tomato and you don't add calcium chloride or some other form of pectin strengthening thing to it, uh they turn to mush.
+
+[27:54] Just you know, for your info. Two, puree the tomatoes in a vita prep. Good call. Uh I'm glad to see someone in Sweden's using vita preps because you know that a lot of people in the Europe they don't have the Vitaprep. They use uh they use a thermal mix.
+
+[28:06] Okay. Three, filter puree through a sieve. Unnecessary with a centrifuge. Do you want to keep I would keep all that puree in? In fact, sometimes I find that having extra solids can uh help uh kind of compact everything down into into a solid puck.
+
+[28:21] So I wouldn't put it through, and you're gonna really reduce your um your your yield that way. Four, remove the air uh from the blending of the filtered tomato puree by using a vacuum chamber. Uh here I wonder if this could be one issue since this method gives a much stronger color of the tomato puree, which in turns counteracts the desired transparency. No, it doesn't give the puree any more color, it just removes the lack of color that the air introduces, right? You're when you like no, yes, no, you you should de-aerate.
+
+[28:48] The reason why, if you don't de-aerate when you're centrifuging tomatoes, you'll get floaty air things on the top that are really going to cloud your stuff up. Already you've made one thing that you're missing. Like you say in the end, should I use Pectanex Ultra SPL? Yes. Like right before while you're pureeing the tomatoes in a Vitapep, you should be adding Pectanex Ultra SPL enzyme, which is available, I believe, even in Sweden because they have shopping to all parts of the world for reasonable amounts.
+
+[29:13] Isn't that what they used to say? What was the copy back in the day when modernist cuisine when you guys used to be friends with them and they used to sponsor the show? Uh anyway, they have moderate, moderate, modest shipping, cheap shipping to uh many parts of the world. Get some Pectanex Ultra SPL from them. Um blend it in the blender until it is warm.
+
+[29:30] You're never gonna get uh I mean, you have a higher G uh centrifuge than I do, but you're gonna get a much better, much better yield and a much uh more clear product by using Pectanex Ultra SPL to break down the pectin. Okay, back to where you were. Centerfuge for two hours at 5,250 uh G's, the highest setting of my centrifuge. You don't need to go anywhere near that long if you have a uh if you add the Pectanex Ultra SPL. You only need to go for like 15 minutes, and that's like, you know, that that's that's about it.
+
+[30:00] You can go a little bit longer, it might increase your yield marginally. That's all you need to do. Uh six, uh you jellify it with uh kapac carrageenin, um, because it's transparent, and then put it in a mold that gives the uh shape of the tomato. The result is okay, a yellowish color, but far from perfect. So I'm wondering if you give me some help to achieve full transparency of the tomato sphere.
+
+[30:20] Okay, now look at it's always gonna be a little bit yellow because uh transparency and colorlessness, right? You gotta always separate those things in your head. Centrifugation is never gonna spin the color out of something unless the color is only contained in the solids and not in the solution. So center like the actual color molecules in solution are never gonna come out. You're never gonna get it to be colorless, right?
+
+[30:48] Uh so there's always going to be a yellow, uh yellow color in the uh in this in the supernatant, in the in the juice, right? But it should be crystal clear, right? So you gotta figure out whether or not, and if you follow the instructions with Pectin X and you spin it for a long time and you de-aerate, your tomato juice will be crystal clear. If you let it sit for a day and a half, uh it will probably throw off a little more flock, and then you could spin it again, and it will be even more crystal clear. However, it will still be yellow, but you should be able to read a newspaper through it.
+
+[31:22] Uh, and that's what I mean by clarity. The only way to get it actually transparent, like when I'm sorry, see you and I make the mistake. The only way to get it clear with no color would be to do a distillation technique, but it's much more complicated, and you need to re add back the acids and the sugars. I've done it, uh, but it's a pain in the butt, it never tastes the same as the actual uh blah blah ha, you know, the actual tomato stuff. Yeah?
+
+[31:44] Alright. Let's should we take our second commercial break and come back and bang out uh like two more questions? Sure. Sick it break! And once again, this is Fish Is Fish is vodka by the meatballers on Heritage Radio Network.org.
+
+[32:36] Oh yeah. Right? That's like a totally different feel. That's our oh yeah. This has been a sloppily engineered show.
+
+[32:44] I'll just go ahead and say that. Oh, we see. Never, never misses an opportunity to agree with someone when they're putting themselves down. That's right. She's never missed one.
+
+[32:58] Ever. I did play the applause for you too. I know, as I said, I did. And there she's downhill from there. And there, and there she like, she like gets on the bus.
+
+[33:04] She's like the only person, she develops a catapult to throw you under the bus she's driving. Yeah. It's rough. Uh yeah, rough, really rough. Okay.
+
+[33:14] Uh Dave Kleiman writes in who has the Twitter handle. I am a fractal. Which I guess, you know, well, maybe not technically. Anyway, I'm a fractal. I I love fractals.
+
+[33:23] You know, I I grew up uh uh being like a fractal lover as soon as I learned about them. In fact, I almost got a job working for a summer in uh Mandelbras lab back when he was alive. Uh and I was a kid. But I like like I I didn't know Fortran or any of that stuff, and I didn't re whatever, anyway, whatever. Fortran.
+
+[33:40] My dad still writes programs in Fortran, if you can believe it. For all of you who know what the hell I'm talking about. Woo Fortran. Cooking issues. What about all those other cool things you can do with Pectin X Ultra SPL, which we just talked about, like French fries and peeling fruit.
+
+[33:53] First of all, uh all of the information on that stuff will be back up on the. I know I've said this a billion times, but the guy who now is in is going to take over, making the blog, reappear in the blogosphere is coming to the lab tomorrow to speak to us, and hopefully we can straighten all this crap out pretty soon, right? Mm-hmm. Mm-hmm. Because you know what?
+
+[34:13] I'm sick of hearing about it. You know what I mean? I need to get it fixed. It's my fault. So I deserve all of the uh approbrium that's been heaped upon me, but still.
+
+[34:21] Um so SPL, uh, like anything else, SPL is uh it's a great tool. Now I use it every day uh for clarification and a centrifuge. And by far and away, that's the most um that's the the most use that I get out of it. However, even if you're not going to clarify something and you don't have a centrifuge, SPL is still really useful. For instance, let's say you're not going to clarify something, but you have a puree, and that puree is too thick for you to use in the application.
+
+[34:53] It's just making your products too thick. Well, you know why that fruit puree or that vegetable puree is too thick? It's the pectin. It's the pectin. So what you do is you add SPL to it, you uh incubate it at 40, and it'll break down the pectin and it will thin out your product considerably and allow you to use that product in more applications.
+
+[35:14] So uh I've done that from time to time. I've also even clarifying in places that don't have centrifuges. I've hit stuff with Pectinex before I uh set it with agar to do an agar clarification because my yield will be much higher if I use Pectinx beforehand. Pectinex also dissolves uh the white parts of citrus fruits, the albedo. And so you can make these amazingly beautiful, like you know, you don't i i it's not um like a complete miracle.
+
+[35:43] People think that you know you just dip something in this pectinex uh enzyme and all of a sudden you have mandarin orange slices. No, it's a little more work than that, right? It's a little more work. However, you can make supremes of citrus fruits. It doesn't really work on lime so well for some reason, but anyway, you can make supremes of citrus fruits that are gorgeous.
+
+[36:00] Now, you can make pretty good supremes of fruits anyway, but they have cuts uh in them, and the cuts kind of mar it when it's on a plate and it's supposed to look like like really you know, back in the day you would have liked a kind of a cut supreme because it would have been seen as kind of like the artistry of the cutting, but nowadays, like I think people are more keyed up on seeing like a perfect piece of fruit that looks almost like it grew that way, and so not cutting across any of the little vesicle things on the inside is really kind of baller. But the most baller one is uh you can get suprems of things like pomelos that have so much pith in them, they're very difficult to work with. Now, the trick about it is you have to take the peel off and then break the fruit in half and then typically into quarters to get all the pectinx into those areas uh where the white is. Otherwise, it's just gonna dissolve the stuff on the outside and not penetrate very far. Uh so you have to be careful with that.
+
+[36:48] If you're taking uh things like grapefruit peels and orange peels, you can add the pectinx uh to them, soak them, and then toothbrush off all of the white, all of the albedo, and you get these super thin, super gorgeous uh peels that you can then candy or use for other things. We used to do that quite a bit. Uh pectin's also the structure on the outside of things like uh potatoes. And so when you're trying to do disrupt this surface of it without disrupting the entire thing, we do a soak of it and it produces a much better crust on things like French fries. Um, we learned that you know years ago.
+
+[37:19] Uh I read a uh technical paper on it, and then we developed our French fry recipe uh based on using pectinx. Uh, you know, modernist cuisine disrupts the surface using ultrasounds, we disrupt it using pectinx, but it's it's good for that. I've heard other people have um other uses for pectinx, but any time that there is pectin and you want to make that pectin go away, pectinex is a good thing to use. Um, uh we had a message in from uh Anjali. I will not re read the message over the air, uh, but uh we'll give you a holler maybe next time we're in the Bay Area if uh if we have time.
+
+[37:56] Uh and uh say howdy to uh your boyfriend, and I apologize to you specifically that he made you spend your vacation together uh completing uh the back catalog of our uh podcast. And and you're right. Yikes. Ouch. I had someone else like send that and saying that they spent sp you know, had their vacation, they had a car trip and they like they listened to a bunch of these.
+
+[38:19] I was like, my God. Sounds like a stressful vacation. I know it, right? Yeah. And I believe my response to uh that gentleman on the Twitter was my wife like doesn't my well but you know what the good thing about it is?
+
+[38:29] Uh if you listen enough, you could probably tune it out. But it took my wife maybe three years to be able to completely tune me out. I mean, completely tune me out. Is that the mission of the show to train people to tune you out? Maybe.
+
+[38:41] Maybe that's maybe that's what we're doing here. Right? Right? 110 episodes. This is a lot of Dave Arnold.
+
+[38:47] Yeah. It's it's a quite a lot, uh, quite a lot of uh of uh Dave Marlon. Um okay. Uh did I talk about my my lobster technique in in or did I say I was gonna talk about it, never talked about it. You never talked about it.
+
+[38:58] Oh, I never talked about it. Very good. All right. So uh since I don't have a blog right now, what did it just go silent? Weird.
+
+[39:04] Anyway, uh since I don't have a blog right now, I'm gonna and uh for those of you that don't know it, I spend a lot of time worrying about uh anesthetizing fish and crustaceans uh prior to dispatching them uh and like and figuring out exact techniques to um kill fish and uh and other things like crustaceans to make them taste uh best. And the the short answer is is that the least amount of suffering or whatever that means, the least amount of stressful the stressful stimuli before uh you know slaughter. And so we won't go into whether or not it's actual pain or suck, because I'm like that's not the that's a very interesting argument, but it's not what we're talking about here. Okay. Uh the less stress from a physical standpoint that they go through uh prior to slaughter, the the better they taste.
+
+[39:48] And that's been true also with lobsters. Now that the it's a kind of a bit of a pain in the butt to um anesthetize lobsters. Not that hard. You can get all the stuff for the Whole Foods, use clove oil, anesthetize, and we've done it many, many times. We've done lots of side by side taste tests.
+
+[40:03] But the interesting test that Nils and I ran back in the day was uh, what about the old thing about shoving a knife through the lobster and cutting it in half at the head? And a lot of people shy away from this just because they're squeamish. That's not really a good reason to shy away from something because you're squeamish. You know, like in other words, it's kind of like, you know, you catch a mouse in a glue trap and then you just throw it away alive because you don't you'd rather do that than to see it squashed in a trap, right? But you're actually better if you just squash it in the trap and kill it right at the get go.
+
+[40:34] That's actually more humane, even though it's more difficult for you to deal with than throwing away the live mouse in the glue trap, which is not a good thing to do, right? Who feels that that's more difficult? What? Like the dead mouse in the trap. Anytime you see the blood or whatever.
+
+[40:49] Oh, but imagine the suffering in the trash on the glue trap alive. I had to throw out a rat somewhere, I won't mention where, and there were a bunch of maggots underneath it. That was really rough. But it was dead though, right? Yeah, it was dead.
+
+[41:03] Like let's say you use glue traps, right? It's far it's far more humane. It was under my chair. What? We'll use like I can't mention right found it.
+
+[41:10] Well, it's it's under your chair still. He couldn't deal with it, so it's still there. Uh that's why it smells so fruity in here. Uh no, but uh if you can't if let's say you use glue traps, which I'm not advocating, if you use glue traps, like uh let's more accurately, more people would throw it away than drown the drown the mouse. Or break step on it and break this back.
+
+[41:28] Right. Both of which are more humane. Anyways, that's not what I'm talking about. So that well it is, kind of. So like the knife, even though you feel worse shoving the knife through the lobster's head, is a quick way to dispatch it.
+
+[41:39] The trick with a lobster is lobster have ganglia running, uh, running all like different it's not a central nervous system the same way we have a central nervous system. So you can't just shove a knife through, like you shove a knife through our brain and we're pretty much done. But the lobster, you have to like bisect a bunch of ganglion that go uh around the esophagus up through the top and around, right? Uh all along. Uh so anyway, but you do that, and it turns out that they taste very clean, very akin to uh the ones that we've anesthetized, but they've lost a lot of their flavor because when you kill a lobster that way, it leaks uh its internal fluids, which are called hemolith, and that has flavor, and so you're losing the flavor.
+
+[42:14] Uh a while ago, uh one of my last blog posts, I said, well, what if we wrap the what if we wrap the lobster up so that it doesn't lose its uh stuff as you cook it? It's vital juices as you cook it, and the results were inconclusive. Here's what I did uh recently, the last time I did a lobster test, and it was entirely successful, and this is the way now I advocate cooking uh lobsters. Get a Pyrex baking dish or anything that's you know non-absorptive. Uh stick a small wooden block underneath the uh lobster's uh head area, put the lobster down on the wooden block.
+
+[42:46] The wooden block is so that your knife doesn't get ruined. Shove an uh put the knife uh on the back of the carapace, uh, you know, which is the you know body part, uh, you know, you know, behind and rear of the eyes, and shove the knife through and completely bisect the front of the animal. If you completely bisect the front of the animal, the hemolith is going to spill into the pyrex, right? So you're preserving all of those juices in the pyrex, right? Then what I do is you carefully take the knife, you run it around the tail, you remove the tail, you take a knife, you s you cut up the cartilage things on the underneath, you remove the tail in one piece, cut up the tail shell, throw it in a pot.
+
+[43:20] Then you um then you cut, take off the claws, I leave the knuckle meat inside of uh inside of the knuckle things by separate them and let all of the juices that are come out as you do this go into the pyrex. Take the claws, I uh cut around the claws to expose the meat, but leave them in the claws because they're very delicate. Right? There's a picture on my Twitter account you can go look at. So now you have exposed claw meat, knuckle meat.
+
+[43:43] Uh I I take all the small legs and cut them up in small pieces, throw them in the pot with the chopped up pieces of tail shells. I then take the body uh and I chop I remove the gills from it, and then I chop it into small pieces and I throw it in the pot with butter. I then take the take the whole thing, I bring it up in temperature, and I get the butter cooked out of it for about 15 minutes. You don't want to cook too long, you want to start pulling out calcium, all that stuff, 15 minutes in the butter, uh, and then throw in uh the juices from the Pyrex, reduce it down a little bit, uh, and then put strain that sucker so there's not shell pieces, right, into a Vitaprep, blend it in the Vitapep to like emulsify a little bit, and bag the meat from the lobster in a ziploc with that stuff in the butter, and I throw that into simmering water. Uh, you don't want to boil it, you gotta you gotta turn the pot off because Ziplocks can't take boiling water.
+
+[44:35] But as long as you're not in there that long and you never actually boil it, and the then then the pots are turned off so it can't boil afterward, it's fine, and that's a really good temperature for lobster. Let it cook for like depends on how you like it. I my we like it a little more done than most people, so we cook it like maybe 10 minutes that way. Uh eight, eight, ten, ten minutes. And then pull it out, and then this the sauce is still delicious in there, and it has a pure, clean, briny taste of the ocean.
+
+[45:02] It is delicious. That's the way I now cook lobster and cooking issues. Dave. Thanks for listening to this program on heritage radio network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[45:29] You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritageradio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by the International Culinary Center. Offering courses that range from classic French techniques in culinary, pastry, and bread baking to Italian studies to management. From culinary technology to food writing, from cake making to wine tasting. For more information, visit International Culinary Center dot com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn.
+
+[0:23] If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Cooking issues! Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Aron, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live every Tuesday from twelve to twelve forty five. Actually, are we uh we we might be able to go to one today.
+
+[1:14] Yeah. Hello! Oh Extended Edition Cooking Issues here, live with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez and Jack and Joe in the engineering room. Hi guys. What's up?
+
+[1:24] Hi. Uh yeah, uh so uh I had something I I I actually headbanged my headphones off during the uh during the intro there. Maybe we should tighten up our headphones, huh? Yeah. Well, speaking of Joel, I kinda wanted to read this email he sent me.
+
+[1:36] He's uh he's thrilled we're playing the song. He wants to take us off maybe on that offer and do a live recording. Then he says he's got all these other tracks he wants to give us, including a Harold McGee tribute song and other stuff he's written about pigs. He says, I've been writing songs for a long time now. My wife hates them.
+
+[1:54] Let's hope you like it. I want to hear the Harold McGee. I I wanna d can we just like get a copy of the Harold McGee? How fast can we get a copy of the Harold McGee tribute song? Like right now, you can get a little bit more than a little bit.
+
+[2:04] Like right now, Joel, if you're listening. We need that right now. Joel, if you're out there, let me see you dance. For those of you that listened to the Princess Black album back in the day. So uh anyway, so and also apparently we had like uh some sort of a fire a firebrand uh performance going on on the show prior to this because the mic was totally loose.
+
+[2:24] Like the mic had been like blasted off of its like gimbals here and was like, you know, practically lying on the floor in the studio. It was the gun show. Yeah, apparently a you know, a a rattling time had uh at least by the microphone. Is it is this the microphone they use, this one? Uh yeah, one of them.
+
+[2:41] Yeah, yeah. That thing was that thing was all its hinges. Anyway. Uh so anything uh good going on, Sas? No, not really.
+
+[2:49] No? Really literally, nothing good is happening. Nothing good has happened. Well, uh, you know, wow, that makes that makes what we do sound very interesting. Uh a Christmas was a long time ago.
+
+[3:00] You're referring to the Mamufuku holiday party. Yeah, but I found I were talking. I found out how where the invitation was. Well, uh, you know how whenever they send you your fake paycheck that doesn't ha that says uh this is not a paycheck. I don't get that anymore.
+
+[3:12] You because you have someone else throw it away for you. No, really, I don't get it. They're gonna want it. Do you want it sent to you? What it was on.
+
+[3:20] Okay, well, it wasn't there. Because you don't get it. They literally have to they have to print it like by law. It's printed. Like, so someone throws it away for you because you probably said, keep it the hell away from me.
+
+[3:29] No, it's like that's where the holiday party invite was on the pay stuff. So you in fact were invited. I like uh well, Piper didn't want to see you. Piper saw you all day, he didn't want to see you at night. No, no, Piper was asking me where is it?
+
+[3:46] Yeah, whatever. I did not go because I was sick as a dog last night. I was like, I got all of a sudden. You ever have like an instant sore throat? Like a move.
+
+[3:54] I'm on like heavy meds now. I'm on a super heavy meds. Wow. Anyways. Speaking of uh heavy meds, uh we're on track for our Kickstarter.
+
+[4:04] I can't tell you people what it is yet, but I was testing out the the thing that we're using at uh the pizza party I had, because every every year of my kids' birthday, I have pizza party at my house where the kids make the pizza, and I was using it. It's not a pizza oven, don't you? But uh I was using it. We cranked out these freaking kids. We cranked out twenty freaking pizzas in in like in like two hours, and they ate every last one.
+
+[4:29] And it we only we didn't have that many people. I don't know where where the heck all that pizza went. It's crazy. Yeah. Also made uh some fake Twinkies.
+
+[4:36] Some fake twinkies. So like uh, you know how the Twinkie's uh hostess is out of business, right? Right. Right? And you know how it yeah, not only is she shopping for Zappos folks, she's playing the music from the website.
+
+[4:48] First of all, it was serious radio was on before. Trader awesome, listening to a competitor, yeah. Terrible. First of all, anyone out there who designs a website and puts music on it, have your head examined. Do not serious radio.
+
+[5:02] Whatever. Okay. Unless you are serious radio or Pandora or Heritage Radio Network. They have to click for artists to come on. We don't just, you know, auto-play things.
+
+[5:12] It's because we're not bad people. Exactly. We don't like we don't invade your home. It's but because you happen to come to our website, you know, perhaps an error, we hope not. We don't invade your home.
+
+[5:22] Anyway, so Twink host is out of business. I bought a box uh uh before Christmas, before holidays for my kids of Twinkies because they'd never had one, and I grew up with Twinkies. I was like, Oh, kids had Twinkies. My wife was like, What the hell are you doing buying my kids Twinkies? And so anyway, they loved it, and all of a sudden, because it's not available anymore, it became their became their favorite dessert on earth.
+
+[5:41] By Christmas time, they were up to $25 for a box of 10. I think the MSRP on that sucker was like $4.50 or something like that. So I bought two for Christmas, but then I decided I'm gonna buy the you can buy pans that make Twinkies, they're Twinkie shaped pans. Everyone on the line on the internet, they make the fake Twinkies by uh molding uh aluminum foil around spice bottles and then using that. But I was like, you know, if my kids want uh if my you know if my kids want Twinkies, I'll invest the money in the pants.
+
+[6:09] So I got the pants and I followed Todd Wilbur. You know Todd Wilbur, you're familiar with Todd Wilbur? Todd Wilbur, he has like a since I think the 90s or something, 80s, 90s, has had a bunch of books called like Top Secret Recipe. And a top secret recipe, it's like you know, he figures out like what's the real oibes and spices in he's not he's not from around here, he doesn't sound like that. He's from like New Mexico or some crap, but he's like, What are the herbs and spices in like Kentucky Fried Chicken and stuff like that?
+
+[6:34] So he posts, in fact, he has a recipe I haven't tested it for Heinz ketchup, fake like Heinz ketchup and you know, whatever it's buy go by Heinz, Heinz is delicious ketchup product. Anyway, uh uh, unless you don't like Heinz, but I think Heinz is a fine ketchup product. Is that your favorite ketchup, says? I really don't care. Are you a freak?
+
+[6:52] Are you a freak? I really don't know. How do you work in the cooking business and not care about the ketchup taste different? I don't care. I don't care.
+
+[6:58] You don't care? I really don't know. So I could serve you poop in a bottle and say it's ketchup, and as long as it says ketchup on the bottle, you don't care. I don't know. Whatever's on the table.
+
+[7:06] I don't care. Like, I really don't care about that kind of stuff. What the hell is wrong with you? How could you not care about it? It's ketchup.
+
+[7:12] It's not. It's not. They taste different. That's like, hey, look, it's a few. You know what you know, you know what?
+
+[7:17] You know what? You know what? You know what, Stas? I'll tell you what. I'll tell you what.
+
+[7:19] I owe Stas, I still owe her a bottle of good wine for a bet I've lost. I'm just gonna get her anything. Because what does it matter? It's wine. No, it's not a wine.
+
+[7:26] It's wine. What does it matter? It's wine. Doesn't matter. It doesn't matter what kind of grapes went into it.
+
+[7:31] Doesn't matter how it was made. On-air ketchup tasting. They're different. They're different. Hunt's ketchup and Heinz ketchup don't taste the same.
+
+[7:41] I like Sir Kensington's. Wow. They're friends of the network. No, honestly, I don't know. I I I mean, usually you get Heinz, right?
+
+[7:48] I mean, I know when I taste something that's not Heinz, and I'm usually kind of disappointed. Yeah, because Hunt's ketchup, no offense to the Hunts Corporation. They make fine canned tomato products, but Hunt's doesn't taste like Heinz does. It doesn't. I don't care.
+
+[8:03] The hell is that? You're supposed to care about every aspect of the what of the world. Maybe we can do a new show at one o'clock called I Don't Care with Nastasia. Well, it's just everything. Where Nastasha tackles the world because she doesn't care.
+
+[8:20] Man, god dang. So, anyways, uh making uh the twinkies, but the problem was that the the issue is is that is that the uh the kids don't want a good sponge cake filled with you know uh some sort of cream filling that dad can come up with. They want freaking twinkies. So I'm not trying to, yeah, it wasn't trying to work on that, so I had to use his fake recipe, which is boxed pound cake and whipped egg whites for the and it pretty is pretty dang close to a Twinkie, actually. You know, my it like Booker was like, real Twinkies, Dad, are slightly better.
+
+[8:54] They're slightly better. Well, I was like, that's perfect. You don't want it to be actually be better than the Twinkie, you want it to be just slightly less good so it tastes like you're actually shooting for the Twinkie. Anywho, but the filling was so freaking thick that I followed the recipe. The filling is marshmallow fluff, Crisco.
+
+[9:09] Trans fat free Crisco. A little bit of powder, sugar, and salt with a little bit of water in it. And I I guess the water level wasn't over whatever. I don't know. It was so freaking thick that it the both pastry bags that I used exploded.
+
+[9:21] The hostess brand, Twinkie like bags, no wonder they went out of business. The bags exploded and sprayed filling all over the table. It's freaking nightmare. Next next time I do it, I'm gonna make a a thinner, a thinner Twinkie mix. But now that I own two pans, I guess I'm gonna have to make Twinkie.
+
+[9:39] You know why? Yeah, I know, but it yeah. I mean, it's like anything. It's like it's like anything that's taken you don't care about Twinkies. I do care about Twinkies.
+
+[9:47] What the hell? You don't care about what do you care about? Tell me something you care about. I mean, I do name a thing you care about. Well, I never would have if my kids weren't now obsessed with it.
+
+[10:00] And they're obsessed with it because they can't have it. Mm-hmm. You know, it's the same thing that everyone cares about X, Y, or Z. As soon as it's gone or as soon as somebody's dead, they they care about it a lot more. That's true.
+
+[10:11] So, same with Twinkies, especially because my kids now, like they love any kind of dessert. So they they they get the Twinkies and then they they're like, oh my god, I love it, and I can't have it. I need it. You know what I mean? I don't personally care about Twinkies that much, except for I care about uh, you know, my kids.
+
+[10:28] Yes. And they care about the Twinkies. So you still have not named something you care about. So, further proof that Nastasha's next show that she's gonna do on her own is just like anything, anything in the world. Man, I don't really care.
+
+[10:41] Man, I don't really care. Uh our good friend, uh our good friend Vidyot Um wrote in saying he uh had a cookbook recommendation because we were talking about Indian cookbooks, but he took a very interesting tack. Instead of recommending a book about Indian cooking, he recommended a book that is printed by an Indian person in India about vegetarian cooking, but it's not strictly speaking an Indian cookbook. It's kind of interesting. He says, um, uh I'm behind on the schedule podcast, but regarding Indian cookbooks, the unique book of vegetarian uh cooking by Saraj Joshi is an impressive book.
+
+[11:15] And I don't know if it and then he added later, I don't know if it's published in the US, but her son's a friend, and the book is good. He uh she also did an all-spinach book called Palak Preparations. I like that pallock preparations. Anyway, no uh no uh Sam, it's not available in the US, but uh I did I did look it up. You can't get it in the U.S.
+
+[11:32] But an interesting, an interesting take. A non-Indian food necessarily food. It has like Mexican food, Chinese food, and Indian food anyway. But anyway, I said I would read it on the air, and there you have it. Uh at Clef's write in, what is a good way to keep uh tarot, uh potatoes and other starchy foods firm after cooking, or maybe just firm the surfaces.
+
+[11:49] Well, I mean, the classic way to keep things firm, and this goes back to uh the f the first instance I read about this uh was uh Jeffrey Steingarden in I think it was in his original book, uh The Man Who Ate Everything, which I think I totally said on the air I always keep confusing with the man who mistook his wife for his hat. So, like I all the titles of the Jeffrey. It's not well, it's not by him, it's by Oliver Sachs, but like somehow I always confuse the two titles and sounds like the man who mistook everything for his hat or ate everything with his hat. Anyway, I always get confused, but the man who ate everything, which was probably when I read it, one of the most, and you know, it still is, in other words, but you know, uh when I read it especially, was kind of one of the most important food books um uh that I ever read. Really.
+
+[12:29] I mean, really, you know, fantastic book. Uh you know, it's a compilation of all his of his article, his articles from Vogue, not all of them, but many of them, uh, in which he says that you should care about everything and you should try everything. Uh, and he's told you that personally himself. Anyways, so he has a section on uh on potatoes, mashed potatoes in particular, and I think also French fries and whatnot, but mainly mashed potatoes, and it was an extremely influential article on keeping them f uh firm and together by heating the preheating them uh at a temperature to activate the um pectin methylesterase enzymes that are in the potato uh and thereby provide uh structure to it later on in the cook process. Bang.
+
+[13:10] Okay. So uh so the that it's a long way of saying pectin methylesterase. So here's what's going on. In in I mean the problem with starch is that starch swells, it's gonna burst and leak out, right? But you can uh harden it somewhat and protect it somewhat um by uh by strengthening the the pectin that's holding the whole thing together, because even though there's a whole boatload of starch in a potato, it still has a lot of pectin there holding holding things together.
+
+[13:35] Now, pectin uh naturally uh what happens is uh you it what it's it cross-links with calcium to get to get stronger, right? So you need calcium present. So this is why, like, you know, uh we use uh calcium to firm up vegetables or calcium chloride is used to firm up tomatoes, right? So when if you if you're if you're making canned tomatoes, you add calcium chloride, even though calcium chloride tastes terrible, you add it, and that small amount of calcium allows the uh pectin to cross-link. When it cross links, it gets firmer and then doesn't break down when it's cooked.
+
+[14:12] However, you have to use um the not all the pectin uh has uh has the ability to cross-link that way. You've got to demethylate it, right? So you gotta use a pectin methylesterase, which is an enzyme, which makes the pectin more readily cross-linked by the calcium. So it's a two-part process. You need to activate the enzymes that are in the potato already, usually by heating, up uh, I think it's like somewhere near 60 Celsius or something like this.
+
+[14:37] Uh, and then uh maybe a little higher, 60, 65 Celsius, and you need to have calcium present. Now there's some calcium present there already, but you can use the enzyme, pectin methylestrates, which you can purchase from novozymes. I don't know if modernist uh pantry stocks it yet, but you can buy that and then add some calcium to it, or you can just use calcium and the natural enzymes that are in there uh to crosslink it. Yeah, good job. Yeah.
+
+[14:59] Uh I don't care. Okay. Uh Andrew Campbell writes in uh Robbie Burns night is fast approaching. Any tips on a more modern preparation of haggis or of cooking organs sous vide. Have we done haggis on this show?
+
+[15:14] I don't think so. Haggis. I have two cans. We should eat it soon. Do we you haven't eaten one yet?
+
+[15:20] Your sister had it when she was into Scotland though, right? Yeah. Yeah. And she loved it, right? I have a Scotch flavored haggis.
+
+[15:26] Did she like the haggis? She liked it a lot. Yeah, you know why? Because Haggis is uh delicious. Haggis, let me just say this.
+
+[15:33] Cooking issues, the show is going on record as saying that haggis is freaking delicious product. Yeah. And uh and you you don't actually you don't have very long left. I think uh Bobby Burns' day is what, the twenty fifth or something like that? So anyway.
+
+[15:49] That is not you know, you know, Bobby Burns, the famous poet from Scotland who wrote such Diddy's as old Langzyne. Oh. Yeah. Anyway, so like uh they celebrate his, I guess his birthday, uh, every year uh in Scotland, and you have Haggis and you drink scotch and you and you and you he has a poem about haggis that you're supposed to read before you eat the haggis. So for those of you that are haggis deficient in your knowledge, uh I'll give you the here's here's how they gross you out with it with haggis, right?
+
+[16:16] This is what they say. It's like the heart and the lungs and all of the goopy crappy stuff inside of a sheep and it's stuffed into a sheep's stomach and cooked and then you eat it, right? That doesn't sound so appetizing. No. Speak for yourself.
+
+[16:30] Right. But to a lot of people it doesn't sound appetizable. In reality, what it is is it's one of any number of dishes that's produced with uh the pluck. So when you when you're with the pluck is all the stuff in the center of an animal. So typically that would uh constitute hearts, lungs, liver, uh, kidney, all that stuff.
+
+[16:48] All of the the awful meat that's there. Well, not awful with an A with an O. And um and another famous uh dish like that i in the US is Scrapple, right? Uh a dish that I also think that everyone needs to eat uh uh much more often, assuming that they they eat meat. Now all of these awful dishes are meant to use the pluck in a way that uh you know, you use it, just use it.
+
+[17:13] But they what they do is you make the stock with it, and then you use the stock to cook a uh grain. So in the case of haggis, it's oatmeal mixed up with these with these cooked pieces of meat and the stock that it comes from, stuffed inside of the sheep's uh stomach, which is the lining like a pudding case, right? And then uh cooked, you know, more so the whole thing slices out like a big like oatmeal, like uh oatmeal meatloaf mushroom. It's freaking great. It's great.
+
+[17:39] Whereas, like, you know, scrapple is all of like the pig's parts, uh like the hard slums and all that well not not anymore but uh yeah liver chopped up and then m made a stock and then you take and chop up the pieces and you put it into cornmeal right which is like you know just a better version of polenta and then when you fry it it get the the gelatin from the stock melts this is a scrapple and it gets all gooey and delicious and and and you know it's great it's fantastic stuff. Now the trick is people are grossed out by some of these meats. And so uh first of all you can't serve lungs in the U.S. at all. So lungs is traditional part of Scott you ever had lungs?
+
+[18:15] No. They're good but they're spongy. Like I have to be honest they're spongy. So like a typical Italian dish that my uh fat uh stepfather uh used to love when he was growing up because his dad was a butcher and he would bring home the hearts and the lungs uh even though he wasn't allowed because he wasn't allowed to sell the lungs because he would slaughter his own sheep was a mixture of hearts and lungs like the from around the Naples version that was thinking of tomato sauce. And uh so he used to love it because the chewy parts of the heart and the and the spongy parts of the lung anyway cooking together but you can't have lung here in the US.
+
+[18:43] But the trick to making this thing modern is if someone doesn't necessarily see back then you you you're making it because uh you wanted to use all those meats if you don't necessarily want for instance the stronger taste of liver in your in your scrapple or in your haggis you can just omit it if you want to. You know what I mean? It's not going to be the same it's not going to be traditional. But this idea of a very flavorful stock made from gelatinous and uh you know flavorful like meat that you cook in a stock grind up and then mix with uh a grain like oatmeal and then cook in in a in a like a pudding way or a loaf is freaking valid even if you were to use high grade stuff. So we made a high grade haggis at the FCI a number of years ago where we used um meat that you would actually normally just uh eat and cooked it along with uh some offal that we could put in uh and do it.
+
+[19:38] Um so that you know so there you have it. Now in terms of cooking in general low temperature uh with with oh and if you want to know about scrapple you can buy William Moyce Weaver's book Country Scrapple which is tedious but exhaustive and like thoroughly researched on scrapple and its importance in uh America and then tracing it back to uh you know um tracing it back to uh Germany, Europe and all of its roots over there. Anyway, okay it's a Pennsylvania Dutch thing Dutch meaning Deutsch, not Dutch meaning Dutch from Holland. Anyway. So uh so the the trick with uh in general with modern uh cooking there is there you I so modern when I was saying modern I meant modern from a taste perspective.
+
+[20:18] If you want to go modern in terms of cooking low temperature sous vide you have to remember that you still have to cook the thing at a high enough temperature to cook the oatmeal out. So you're probably not going to do an extremely low temperature cook uh same with same with uh scrapple for polenta you you know you still need to cook out the polenta so you need to go to a higher temperature than you normally would but you could do it in a bag if you wanted to to keep all the flavors and the issue is is that a lot of times with uh awful and with um variet variety meats if you're using variety meats uh a lot of the old style preparation of these meats is to try to get rid of some of the inherent uh aromas let's say that they have or flavors and so you'll have recipes where things are soaked in milk beforehand to draw out uh stuff or they're uh parboiled first to draw things out and if you don't do those sorts of things I mean remember that low sous vide if you put something in a vacuum bag tends to concentrate aromas over time. So if the something has an aroma that you're trying to get rid of or a taste that you're trying to get rid of you don't want to put it in a bag right away because it's just going to seal the stuff in. The second thing the reason you'd want to do low temperature sous vide on one of these things is because you want to uh make it more tender than you otherwise would you have to look at how tenderness really works when you're doing uh low temperature cooking. So uh let's say you're going to cook a regular piece of muscle meat that has a lot of collagen right and you don't want to uh cook it to a high temperature because you want to not overcook the muscle that's within it to uh you know over medium rare or medium let's say so you do low temperature for a long time and long long time breaks down things like skin uh things like connective tissue uh it and this is why this is a good technique for things like pork tails that have a lot of uh a lot of collagen a lot that can break down into gelatin over long cooking right but and and it keeps them whole because it doesn't melt them out it just it just converts them to uh gelatin in their own place without actually melting it out the way you would in a traditional braise.
+
+[22:16] Uh so it's fantastic for things like that. Meats like uh heart are not tough because they have a lot of collagen. They're tough because the muscle fibers are extremely strong. So cooking it low temperature isn't going to soften it the same way it would soften let's say a short rib. What's going to happen with uh with heart is you're actually going to break the muscle fibers down by extreme long cooking but that's a different kind of tenderness.
+
+[22:43] Now back when Stas used to pay attention to the the Sous vide class that we would I sat through that like five times. Well, more like once and the rest typed your way through it. But the uh but one of the classic things I want people to taste when they're tasting low temperature cooked meats is the difference between tender and mushy because they often get confused. And um when I cook a piece of steak for too long, for instance, to me, it's no longer tender. When the muscle fibers themselves start breaking down, it becomes mushy.
+
+[23:15] And you've tasted that, right, Stas? Yes. Yeah. Do you care about that? No, of course.
+
+[23:20] All right. Well, well, so she's not mushy. So she's not talking about that on the show. But the uh, but the so the point is is that you can tenderize something like a heart, but I think a lot of the tender is tenderizing you have to be careful that it doesn't edge over into the mushy zone. Uh also certain things like liver, if they're cooked for a long time in a bag, accentuate the livery flavor.
+
+[23:40] And in fact, uh cuts of meat like Eye of Round that uh you know when they're cooked for a long time also tend to become livery. So I wouldn't cook something that's livery for a very long time in a bag because if you do, you're going to uh you're going to accentuate that that livery note. Anyway, uh hope that's helpful. That seems helpful at all. Yes.
+
+[24:00] Yeah. What time is it? I can't even see the clock. 1225. So should we go to our first commercial break?
+
+[24:03] Yes. We're going to our first commercial break. Call in the 7184972128 cooking issues. Today's theme song for cooking issues is by Joel Gargano. The break song is Fish Is Fish Is Vodka by the Meat Ballers.
+
+[24:26] You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.org. The International Culinary Center is a proud sponsor of the Heritage Radio Network.org. The ICC with locations in New York and California provide cutting edge education to future chefs, restaurateurs, and wine professionals. We're proud to claim Dan Barber, Bobby Flay, and David Chang among our honored alumni. This is Dorothy Cann Hamilton from Chef's Story.
+
+[25:18] Check out our ICC website at International Culinary Center.com. Oh yeah! Back with cooking issues. What's up, guys? Nothing like coming back with Dorothy.
+
+[25:30] Yeah, coming back with Dorothy. Oh yeah. Oh yeah. Yeah. Shout out Dorothy.
+
+[25:35] Speaking about coming back, the blog's back on the air. What I don't even believe that. Is that true? It is. We don't get a clay don't get a clap for that.
+
+[25:45] Yeah, man. We didn't believe it. Although I just got tweeted out this way. So what happened is is that our good friend Paul Adams decided to take uh who you know writes for uh popular science. Uh decided to and he you know he tasted Surstroming with us.
+
+[26:02] Remember that? Mm-hmm. What oh my god, so well so Surstroming is this uh is this like horribly uh what's it's like horribly stinky. Uh even I had issues with it. Uh it's incredibly stinky fish that is not salted enough to totally kill everything, and then ferments inside it's from Sweden.
+
+[26:24] Ferments inside the can, and so like a bulging can is actually the sign of a good Surstraming. And uh you like keep it in this can for a year and uh you open it and um pungent, pungent. You were there for that, right? Yeah, yeah. Did you eat it?
+
+[26:40] Yeah. Did you like it? It's it's intensely freaking salty, and the smell is beyond what you would think is possible in something that you would put in your mouth. It's like it's it is like I've never seen flies attracted to something so fast. Remember that?
+
+[26:58] There was like no there was no flies anywhere, and all of a sudden, like we were swarming, we were like beating the flies away. And only I I ate it a couple of times. I you know, got it down, we had like the rye bread and we had Akavite and all this other stuff. But uh only Harold McGee, who was like, doesn't have the vomit note that the last one I had. Remember that?
+
+[27:18] Doesn't have the vomit note. That was what his complaint it was his complaint. Yes. That it didn't have the vomit note from the first time or the f other two times he had had it. The only other guy who was pounding Sir Stromming was Paul Adams.
+
+[27:30] So much so that he was like, You're not gonna throw that can away, are you? Also it doesn't talk like that. He's like, You're not gonna throw that can away. He's like, I'm gonna take that back to the office, took it in a cab with him. I am sure that this cabbie, like if this cabbie had been armed, Paul would have had a problem.
+
+[27:47] You know what I mean? Because this was the stinkiest thing that ever happened. Anyways, so uh our good buddy Paul. He uh got the cooking issues back uh back online. We finally got the passwords, we have control, but I unfortunately, Nastash, I don't know if you heard this this morning, but someone said that we are reinfected already.
+
+[28:04] What? And it's like, you know, you try and do something. Do you guys use WordPress? No. Yeah, I don't know.
+
+[28:10] I don't know. I don't know. But so so for those that tweeted that to us, we're getting that worked on, and we're going to uh we're uh Paul said he might actually write some stuff for the cooking issues. We're gonna become a viable blog again, people. That's it.
+
+[28:23] Tell me where you see it is infected. I didn't see it was infected, someone else did. You have to go to my Twitter account. She's like, I can't be bothered. I can't be bothered.
+
+[28:32] Uh I just have one thing for Joel Gargano. If he's gonna do a Harold McGee kind of tribute band that uh maybe he might want to call it Vomit Note. Whoa. You know? I don't know that Harold would.
+
+[28:44] I don't know. I don't know. I mean Well, yeah, I guess. Yeah, you never I mean I don't know it's hard to say. It's just such a cool band name.
+
+[28:50] Vomit Note. Vomit Note. Is that like uh is that like the Brown Note? Yeah. That note that you hit and you don't know whether you've you've been able to hold it in.
+
+[29:00] It's a good one. Anyway, uh that's why I played, that's why I learned to play bass, by the way, is because uh, you know, the notes, like a really good bass cab when you're playing uh live and you're in your amps really good and your bass cab's really good, like you really have to squeeze tight to make sure that you've maintained control because your body is vibrating so so much. And that is the that's the that's what's so awesome about playing the bass. No one with me on this? Okay.
+
+[29:24] Um what do you mean? You went to rock concerts all the time. You don't know what I'm talking about. I don't even watch the drummer. I only watch the drummer.
+
+[29:32] By the way, Nastasha, obsessed with uh There's a Feeling coming in the air tonight by Phil Collins. No, everyone go online, Google the video when he's live, and he sings the entire song walking on stage, and you're worried he's not gonna make it to the drum set before that important part. But he does. I guarantee I'm not worried about it. Finally, we found something that I'm not worried about that you are worried about.
+
+[29:54] Phil Collins making it to the drum set. Alright. Josh Krieger writes in on heating elements and cast iron. Nastash and Dave, two questions for you. What kind of heating element is used in the poly science immersion circulators?
+
+[30:07] Are they PTC heaters or something else? Well, for those of you not in the heating know a PTC heater is a positive temperature coefficient heater. And uh what a positive temperature coefficient heater is is it's um a heating element they're usually like chips. They're like you know little chips. And uh and they're they're arrayed.
+
+[30:24] You put a bunch of them in you heat them. But they the hotter they get the higher their resistance goes but it's not in a linear fashion. So over a normal kind of heat range where you might want to control a heater, uh it has a relatively low resistance. And then as soon as it heats up beyond a certain predetermined point that they uh that they determine by what they dope it with. I think they're usually made with um barium titanate and then they have a little doping crap in it to change the temperature at which the resistance really changed but you hit a certain temperature and all of a sudden bam the resistance goes way up which throttles the power down.
+
+[30:56] So they're called self-limiting because they can't burn themselves out. And that's an advantage. So by the way, no poly science does not use them. Poly science uses standard resistance uh heaters uh with stainless steel sheaths so they use a uh you know a a bendable tubular immersion heater with a stainless steel sheath in them and the way you could tell that they use it actually I don't know I haven't opened up his new one I haven't opened up the I haven't opened up the what's the new one called the inexpensive one? I don't remember the name of it.
+
+[31:25] Sue V Creative I think creative. I haven't opened up the Sous V Creative but none of the older ones uh use a PTC heater. The advantages of uh the advantage of a PTC heater is it doesn't require a secondary um uh uh it doesn't require secondary safety. So if you look at one of the old poly science circulators, or even I guess you know the the professional, which is you know the one we have, it there's a little uh what looks like a sauce a stainless steel sausage strapped to the heating element. And that is uh uh a safety thing, such that if the e the tank runs dry, or if anything like that happens, uh and the temperature of the heating element shoots up, then um the it shuts the system off, right?
+
+[32:08] So and the advantage, you know, that's standard way of doing it. The advantage of the PTC is it doesn't require that, and also if it goes over temp, it doesn't actually shut the s it doesn't shut the system down, it just throttles the power down uh to a point where it's not gonna harm anything. So that's the the theoretical advantage of the uh of them. They're they're super advantageous in situations where you know that you're not going to be able to stop crud from building up between your heating element and the temperature measurement that's gonna use it, right? Because then if inefficiencies can mean that your heating element can get so hot that they can burn themselves out.
+
+[32:43] Not really the case in an immersion circulator, but anyway, uh PTCs um have only recently been starting to, I think, really being used quite a lot in in new applications. So I don't know if Philip will use them eventually, but he's not using them right now as far as I know. Yeah? Yep. Whoa!
+
+[32:59] Whoa. Wow. Reverbed colour, you're on the air. Yeah, listen, uh David, how are you doing? Um this is massive a couple times before, but I have a two-part question about combu today.
+
+[33:15] Okay. Um is combu fat soluble, i.e., if put combo in oil, will it enhance the flavor of whatever I cook in the oil? Hmm. Okay, so the we're talking about combu, which is uh seaweed giant kelp that uh you know most famously used for making dashi in uh Japanese cuisine, also used for curing things like fish, uh where you wrap uh and also as Nils used to do, duck, where he'd wrap the duck in combu, let it sit, and you develop kind of a cured layer on the outside. Uh okay, so I mean obviously the salty stuff is not really oil soluble, right?
+
+[33:52] But I don't know. I don't know about the other flavors. Uh we've never to my best of my knowledge, we've never done an oil-based uh combu. I know that the skin of the duck, which has quite a lot of fat, picked up a lot of really good flavor from the combo, though. So I I I know that's the case.
+
+[34:09] Uh but you know, it's hard for me to say whether or not it's the water uh part of the skin that's picking up the combu or whether it was the oil part. It's a really fascinating question. Uh I you know, you tend to think mainly about um you know uh amino acids, uh you know, and you know glutamic acids in particular and other things getting liberated from combu by the um uh you know, by the cooking process in Dashi. And of course, you know it has all the polysaccharides in it 'cause it's a seaweed and that's what's providing the structure. But I've never thought about the uh never thought about oil.
+
+[34:42] Uh please give it a shot and send us a tweet and tell us what happens, uh, because uh you know it sound sounds interesting. I'd I'd like to hear what happened. All right. Uh let's be honest with you uh where the question comes from. I was watching uh the recent season of Top Chef, and in one of the episodes he had a fryer and he actually had combu in the fryer.
+
+[34:59] So I've been thinking about it for a couple of weeks now, about is it fat soluble? Would it really work? I don't know. I haven't tried it, but I did do a lot of research online, so I figured I'd call I'd call the person that might be the answer. Wait, so he was using it not to make a crispy fried combu but to flavor the oil?
+
+[35:16] Yeah. And and on the on research online did they say it worked or no? No, I couldn't find anything that said that combo was fat soluble or um glutaminic I'm gonna say it wrong, but whatever the acid or the amino acids were fat soluble. So here's what I here here's what I would do. I mean, although you know cross is a blood brain bear whatever.
+
+[35:38] But like here's what I here's what I uh or it doesn't no. I always get my brain confused. No, one does the other one doesn't. No it doesn't. Yeah it's uh it's not anyway.
+
+[35:45] So the uh what I would do is um I would just run a side by side uh test where you know uh and then serve it to someone to see if they can tell the difference. Even better yet, do it do a triangle test where you serve them three, two of them are the same and one is different and have them try and figure out which one's which and why fair enough it sounds great. I will just cool the second yeah yeah the second part of the question is I just recently read the article that was written by the food lab on Sirius Eats about um brining uh chicken and turkey and talks about how using a protein br uh brine like chicken stock doesn't flavor the meat per se because the particles in the chicken stock are too big to get into the protein even though the protein expands. Right. Um I question is if you were to put combu in the brine do you think that the glutaminic acid or the amino acids will get inside of the protein or is it does for sure?
+
+[36:44] Huh I don't know. I mean like a combu definitely flavors the surface of the meat and causes a curing because it has salt. There are the there are s very small water soluble molecules in combu that will do some penetration. I don't know, uh I mean, so you know, uh individual amino acids are not large, but I don't know what their diffusion characteristic through the surface of uh of a meat is. Others, you know, me like because salt is really small.
+
+[37:11] Do you know what I mean? Right, because the salt is well the salt helps open up the protein strands. Uh right. Well, it changes like it's it shifts it shifts the conformation of the protein, right? And uh uh so but the the I don't know.
+
+[37:28] I was gonna say I don't it's another thing I uh I don't know. My my my guess is that that you're not getting too much effect past the surface unless you inject it. Or or if you have you know holes in it, you know, but like this is why you usually if you're gonna in like with a broth or something, you inject you inject it in. I mean salts, small molecules, things diffuse through, but uh so I guess that means I'm in agreement with the uh with the serious seeds post, then, right? Okay, yes.
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+[37:56] Uh so well, I'm working with your first. Cutting out understanding. Yep. I said uh I said I'm working with an old friend of yours here in Chicago. Oh, yeah?
+
+[38:07] Yeah, with Musa. Oh, yeah? How's he doing? Yep. He's doing great.
+
+[38:11] You're really good. Nice. All right. Well, say howdy for me. I I will for sure.
+
+[38:16] I will for sure. And uh he's uh teaching me a lot of great stuff. I'm learning everything I ever needed to know about hydrocolloids and so that's that's pretty much it. So uh great radio station or radio shells, thank you very much, and I'll keep listening. Oh, thank you.
+
+[38:32] Awesome. Thanks. Jack putting the reverb even on me. Like that? Yeah, yeah, yeah.
+
+[38:36] On the thing, thank you. You, you, you, you, you. All right. So uh Josh Krieger's second question in was I have a 14-inch cast iron skillet. I'm thinking about flipping it upside down and using it as a baking steel for pizza.
+
+[38:44] Is there a temperature where the seasoning on the skillet would start to degrade? I.e., can I use it at 550 degrees Fahrenheit without issues? Okay, before I get into that, so the pizza steel is this thing that uh, you know, the modernist cuisine uh guys uh were saying that they use a very thick piece of steel that they heat up and that develop uh delivers a wallop of heat to uh pizzas uh you know, they say in a more effective way than something like a stone uh wood, and is easier to load the heat into than a stone, right? Now my question is I don't know if a cast iron pan is enough has enough stored energy to do what uh what uh Josh wants here. But that's not the question, so I'm not gonna get into that question because that wasn't the question.
+
+[39:31] Uh now uh 550 Fahrenheit, you're getting you're getting very close. So let's go back to what a cast iron the cast iron seasoning is. So cast iron seasoning, uh seasoning a cast iron pan, you're you're doing a uh a coup a couple of things. And by the way, uh last night when I saw this question, I went and uh you know, did a re re research because occasionally people like change their, you know, write new things about you know what's going on, so I was just checking up. Uh and I found actually a really old uh thread on the garden web that written by this kind of like it's interesting dude from Louisiana, Dan A.
+
+[40:07] B. Uh Z9LA for Louisiana on the garden web and not Louisiana, not LA for Los Angeles, LA for Louisiana. Anyway, and he's like a retired chemist, and he has strangely on this garden web thing from like 2007, possibly the best explanation of what's going on in a in uh pancuring that I've read. Uh anyway, so in a pan in a pancury situation, you're taking uh an oil or fat, you're putting a thin layer on your pan, and then heating it till it's past the smoke point, it starts to turn black, break down. So he he says that there's two things that are going on.
+
+[40:42] One, you're polymerizing the oil, right, by breaking it, breaking it down at uh at wherever it has like a double bond, breaking it down and it's forming a polymer. The polymer is hard, right? But also breaking uh fat down in general uh into its smaller parts and leaving carbon residues. And uh, you know, I looked it up and carbon residues of oils is one of the things people measure, especially in the petroleum industry, because they need to know how much soot is going to be left over when oils are burned or when they're degraded, right? So he says you want that carbon because it the carbon is adding to uh the kind of the non-stick uh principle.
+
+[41:16] So it's a combination of polymerization of oil and the carbon that's put down. But if you heat it too high, you're gonna break down that those uh those polymers that you put on it. And the problem is that the temperature at which that happens is gonna depend partly on what oil was there to begin with, uh, along with a lot of other factors. I will say this. Um I have burnt the seasoning off of pans in my oven.
+
+[41:42] Now my oven gets hotter. Remember, I told you before I do pizza in my oven. My oven gets up to like 850, 875 degrees, and it will easily burn the seasoning off of a cast iron pan. Uh the um self-cleaning on an oven which runs a little bit hotter, a little over 900 Fahrenheit, is gonna burn the seasoning off of a cast iron pan. Uh just vaporize it.
+
+[42:05] Uh I've had pans on my stove overheat and lost uh some seasoning on them when I'm going super, super, super high heat on these little cast iron skillets that I have. So uh I you know, if you were saying 500, I'd say you're okay. If you were saying 650, I'd say not okay. I have a bunch of pan uh stone bowls that get seasoned uh with uh oil, um, you know, the hot stone bowls for Korean food, and I get them up to about 615, 620 all the time, and that wipes out the seasoning on the bottom. So uh, you know, it's it's tough to say.
+
+[42:43] Like if you can guarantee you're 550, you're probably gonna be okay, but if you go much higher than that, it's gonna be a problem, you know? But uh check out uh check out Dan A B Z9LA on the garden web so you can uh uh you check it out. Another interesting thing is that um uh there's another blog out there, I forg I forget her name is Cheryl Cantor, I forget the name of her blog, but she has an interesting post on cast iron where she actually because the whole the whole point of uh, you know, you're familiar with drying oil like linseed oil for painting. Yeah. So it's like she's like, why not, since what you're trying to do is form a polymer, why not use the oil that's actually good at that, even at room temperature, which is flaxseed oil, linseed oil.
+
+[43:21] And so she seasons now all of her pants with uh flaxseed oil, and she says she gets really good results because there's a lot of people on the internet that really care about what they what oil they use. And Dan, I'm gonna say it again because I can't. Dan A B Z9LA. You should do it in the army code so people know what they're you know. What Alpha Bravo Zeta.
+
+[43:40] But I don't know whether he was ever in the army or not. I know he's in Louisiana. People are writing it down, they're not writing down like C instead of Z. Here's why I've never met this guy, Dan, but here's why I like his posts. Because he it's like he just says something, and then like later on you find out that like he's only started dipping his finger in the kind of crap that he knows.
+
+[43:58] Cause he's like, he's like, I don't know. Because at one point someone asked him a question. He's like, I don't know. I got another good 1015 pots I got a season tomorrow, so I'll test. I'm like, Dan, what the hell is this guy do?
+
+[44:07] Like he's a retired chemist, and he's like, well, when here's what I do. Here's what I do when I'm re-seasoning my 30 gallon cast iron hog cooker. I'm like, what the hell? You know what I mean? So anyway, so my man, my man Dan, Dan, whatever it is.
+
+[44:23] Dan A B Z 9 in LA. Anyway, like to meet that guy someday. Uh okay. Uh, oh, and uh Josh Thanks us. He says, thanks as always, the show is fantastic.
+
+[44:34] Continues to improve the way I cook and the quality of food I produce, which I appreciate. Um Justin Thrasher writes in on barrel-aged uh cocktails in the Cornelius Keg. Hey, what time is it, Jack? 46. Ooh, let's take one more commercial break.
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+[44:46] Come back. Cooking issues! All right. Every Wednesday at noon, Dorothy Ken Hamilton, founder and CEO of the International Culinary Center, interviews the top chefs in the world on Chef's Story. Here from chefs like Christina Tosi.
+
+[45:40] I'm gonna be the best pastry cook this restaurant's ever seen. Francis Malman, who with flyers it's very feminine, it's very fragile, and Jacques Pepin. That was invited to welcome the White House or uh John Kennedy. Learn how the greats become great. Every Wednesday at 12 p.m.
+
+[45:56] on Chef Story at Heritage Radio Network.org. It wasn't that John Kennedy, it was actually a different kid. John Kennedy's from Jersey. Yeah, it was John Kennedy from Jersey. He was working at the White House at the time.
+
+[46:08] No, no, yeah, no. I love I love my man Jacques Popin. He's done some, he's done some cool things. You know, he was like, I think he was Mitterrand's uh was it Mitterron Chef? Was he chef for Mitterrand, I think, for a while.
+
+[46:18] And like uh he's got an amazing story. You read his uh read his uh autobiography I have. He was one he's one of the reasons that I'm cooking today, in fact. Really? Oh yeah, hell yeah.
+
+[46:27] Jacques Papin, back in the day. I used to watch his show on PBS, and uh when like when I was young, uh, you know, I bought one of the one of the early cookbooks I bought was his kind of mid eighties two part book on uh on on cooking. It was all in color. It was re it was like expensive. I got it as a remainder because it was so far ahead of what Americans wanted to see.
+
+[46:48] He teaches you how to skin a baby lamb in this book. And so it's his two part series. I think it's called uh the the I forget what it's called. Anyway, but it's not not the large black and white one, which is a fantastic bargain, but two part by knop uh color series that uh Jacques Papin did. Anyway.
+
+[47:07] Sweet. Well, episode one of Chef's Story too. Cool interview with him. Yeah. Yeah, it's really interesting.
+
+[47:12] Yeah, yeah, good man. Uh okay. Justin Thrasher writes in. Uh hey Dave, love the show. Listen weekly, and I'm contemplating trying to get cocktails to force carbonate them later on.
+
+[47:22] Ultimately, I would be able to like to barrel age cocktails in a small two point five gallon Cornelius keg. Cornelius kegs are the uh kegs that are used for soda manufacture back in the day. It's called pre-mix, where you'd mix the soda water and the syrup together in a keg, carbonate the whole thing, and force it out. They look kind of like tall, skinny beer kegs. And the system went out of favor, but uh homebrewers have been using those kegs for years because they're fantastic for small five-gallon uh uh brew sizes for home brewers.
+
+[47:51] Um they also make a smaller 2.5 gallon cornelius keg, however, they're a lot more expensive than the five gallon. That's just for those of you that don't know what a Cornelius keg is. Okay. Ultimately, I would be able to like to barrel age cocktails in a small 2.5 gallon corneas keg and then later carbonate them to serve. Can you possibly add any of your expertise?
+
+[48:08] Nope. No, I'm just kidding. That's what Stas always wants me to say. Nope. Uh so here's the deal.
+
+[48:15] Um barrel aging is uh there's a couple of things going on. So in barrel aging, it typically means it's in a barrel, meaning there's wood. So if you're gonna add chips to this thing, because you're gonna age, because you're gonna you have to add chips, you have to pull the chips out before you're gonna carbonate. If by aging you just mean letting it mellow, so Tony C. Tony Corneliaro, or Canigliaro, as the baseball fans here in the US say, uh, you know, for many years he's aged cocktails in the bottle.
+
+[48:41] And the aging in the bottle is not the same thing as aging it in uh a barrel. He's doing it like the small amount, the the marrying of the spirits, uh, the reduction of the proof, although he doesn't dilute it beforehand, but the reduction of the proof because of things like added vermouth, plus the little bit of oxygen that's in the bottle and remixing it causes it to age over time in the bottle. Okay. Now, more recently, um people have been barrel aging, and in that case, you have the oxygen effects, the marrying effects, and the effects of wood. But for that you need wood, but they're two semi-related but different kinds of things.
+
+[49:13] So if you're gonna do it in a cornea keg, you're gonna have to add uh wood chips because corny kegs are stainless steel. Another thing is is you're gonna have to, like I say, remove the wood, but also you're not gonna want to age something in a Cornelius keg like that uh at when it's diluted. So you're gonna have to do it full strength, and then you have to dilute it before you carbonate it. You have to dilute it before you carbonate it. Another thing about carbonating in a cornelius keg and forcing it out with force carbonation is you're gonna need to get that sucker cold.
+
+[49:38] I like look th I like things that are very bubbly. If you want a very light bubble in it, then you don't need to get it as cold. Then ice water cold is good enough. But for the stuff that we carbonate at the bar, we're carbonating down at like 22, 23 Fahrenheit. I like minus what is that, eight, nine, ten Celsius.
+
+[49:54] Uh also you're gonna need to buy a cold plate uh because in order to get something out of the keg, cocktails foam a lot. You need to mellow it out. To mellow it out, you're gonna need to put the cocktail through a cold plate to allow it to go along a bunch of uh two like smooth tubing beforehand, and you're gonna need to get what's called a Becker squeeze valve, B-E-C-K-E-R squeeze valve. You can get it from um oh my gosh, I can't believe it. Mark Powers uh in uh Guntersville, Alabama.
+
+[50:18] They have it, and those valves have a compensator in the back and allow you to do it, and that's the only way everyone I know uh does it uses those valves. I've used those valves for many, many, many years, and the valve is gonna make a big difference. You're also still gonna get a lot of foaming. You're just gonna get a lot of foaming, right? You mean it's just gonna happen.
+
+[50:34] Okay. Matt Wilson writes in. I'm looking to buy a centrifuge. I'm searching eBay. I found a Hermley CK380.
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+[50:41] Uh, and he gets a link. Is this a good candidate for home use? I'm close by and can go pick it up. It doesn't come with a rotor, and I'm not sure how much of an issue that is. Matt Wilson, Matt, that is a huge issue.
+
+[50:51] I would not, even though it's only like 150 bucks, I mean, unless you know you can buy a rotor from someone, I mean, without the rotor, the centrifuge might as well just be a big doorstop. You know what I mean? So, unless you know you can get the rotor and the buckets for that sucker, I would stay away from it. If you can get the buckets and rotor, look, let's say you can buy another one. The centrifuge looks fine for specs.
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+[51:12] I mean, it's got a little small, it doesn't have that large a bucket. So I think it does one liter at a time. But let's say you found another ZK. This is what I would do. Let's say you found another ZK 380 on the internets and it has a good rotor, but maybe it's a little beat up and you're worried about the brushes not being good or whatever.
+
+[51:26] Buy this sucker for spare parts. For $150 is a spare parts machine. If you already have a good rotor and buckets, that's a good deal. But uh trying to find rotors and buckets uh is like needles and haystacks and buying them new. This is a very old machine.
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+[51:40] I looked at the manual online, it's old. Like I would stay away from it. I would always go try to get one that had a good working rotor and buckets, and the rotors and buckets have to be good, not dinged, not like viciously old, not mutilated, and you're still taking a risk by using a used rotor because you don't know what the other person did. You don't know whether they used the bucket to, I don't know, like pry their car door open. You don't know what the hell they used it for.
+
+[52:03] You know what I mean? Yeah, okay. Uh Joseph W writes in uh at cooking issues. I work at a restaurant in Atlanta. We have a Paco Jet.
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+[52:10] What are some good Paco Jet uses other than ice cream in Sorbet? Thanks. Uh that's mainly what we used it for when I, you know, when I used to have access to one at the French culinary, we almost always made ice cream with it uh because it was so good at it. Um, but you know, it well so the there's a new set of blades you can buy uh called the coop set that allows you to do a lot of work with it uh without freezing first. So you can do farces like you know, mousses and meat farces and grinding things with a Paco jet without first freezing everything.
+
+[52:41] Uh because one of the downsides of everything is that you have to freeze everything. So it comes with a whipping disc, although I don't know why you'd want to whip cream in a Paco jet because it makes no sense. But what it does do is the whipping disc, you can throw fresh fruit in with the cream and the sugar, and it'll whip the fruit directly into the cream without having to do a pre like a puree or something like that. So I guess that's theoretically an advantage. But typically what you would do on the savory side is like let's say you wanted to store a bunch of stuff like herb, and you wanted to uh put like a concentrate or an herb or a puree of that herb into something like a soup.
+
+[53:12] Um in a Paco Jet, what's awesome is you pack it into a Paco Jet container and you just use the portion that you want, you do it, and then you stir, it's frozen, so it stays good forever, frozen solid like a block. And then you just you know, you spin in the Paco jet whatever part you need and you add that part to whatever you're working on, soup, sauces, and it melts right in, right? Uh certain other things when you're doing farces or or or mousses rather, if they have enough structure, you can freeze them and then scoop them if they have enough structure to hold after they thaw out and s and serve them as is or if or if they're cold. But a lot of things they're what they're doing is when they're making mousses with a Paco Jet, they're using the Paco Jet to make a very, very fine texture. Because you gotta remember, Paco Jet, the texture on a Paco jet is smaller than the texture you can get out of a vitape.
+
+[53:56] The texture out of a vitape is not quite smooth enough for your tongue to uh not uh register it. The particles are over 20 micrometers in size. Whereas, uh just slightly, uh uh, I think at maximum efficiency for a vita prep. Whereas in a Paco jet, you're getting ice crystals that are crystals, shavings that are small enough for your tongue not to register them as individual grains, i.e., smaller than 20 micrometers, uh, you know, more on the order of ice cream crystals. And so you can make pureees of things that are extremely smooth by freezing them, spinning them in the Paco Jet, and then uh using that pure, thawing it, and then when they're making a mousse, they don't make the mousse directly in the Paco Jet.
+
+[54:34] Uh what they typically do is they'll freeze it like whatever, what like on Paco Jet's website, they use broccoli. I don't know why they do that, but whatever. Then they cook the broccoli, they put it in the Paco Jet, they freeze it solid, they spin it down, and then they make a mousse out of that with whipped cream and gelatin like a standard mousse. But uh, I don't know. Does that help at all?
+
+[54:50] Okay. Uh and last, on the way out, because I have uh looks like four minutes. There's uh I don't know, in the in in in I've been at you know how the people reference you well, you don't know because you hate social media, but they reference you in a Twitter thing. Yeah. Anyway, so I've been referencing this in this uh in this line of stuff about uh um Cooks Illustrated and uh and pressure cookers.
+
+[55:09] They're going on their radio show on Valentine's Day. Yeah? Yeah. All right. So anyway, so they rated cook they rated pressure cookers, and they didn't rate the Coon Recon one, which I like a lot so highly, and they rated the Fagor one uh uh, you know, f highly, it's like one one of their favorites.
+
+[55:26] And there's all this like twittering around uh on like well, what's good and what's bad and what's not. Um here here's my two, here's my two cents. Because we talked about pressure cookers uh uh recently. Go read Cooks Illustrated uh now has their ratings online. And this is one of those situations where I think their ratings are pretty off based.
+
+[55:46] Uh, you know, go look at uh Hip Pressure Cooker, uh, you know, the blog that blog. Go look at uh Miss Vicky's pressure cooker. But the the people at Cooks Illustrated dinged the Coon Recon one because they said that it was hard for them to adjust the temperature on it. Whereas for me, it's like Coon Recon, and they also, they said, for letting me read the Cooks Illustrated uh the the um what to call it reviews on this, they said that the Coon Recon evaporated the most water uh of all like many of the pressure cookers they took they took. And it's exactly the opposite of the truth.
+
+[56:14] The reason I like Coon Recon is twofold. One, it's extremely easy at all times to see exactly what the pressure is inside of the Coon Recon, because there's a spring that indicates exactly what the pressure is inside of the Kun Recon thing. The reason I don't like the Fagor model is because it does not indicate its pressure unless it's venting out uh uh material. And people get this confused all the time. Here's what's going on.
+
+[56:41] In a pressure cooker, there are two things happening in something like a phagor pressure cooker. There's an indicator that the unit is under pressure at all, and that's a little yellow dot that pops up. As soon as that yell little yellow dot pops up, you know that the unit is under some amount of pressure. However, you don't know what that pressure is. You just know it's under some amount of pressure, right?
+
+[57:01] Then you keep the thing going and you don't know what's going on because nothing happens until steam starts coming out of the vent, right? So the the Fagor one is a venting pressure cooker, which I don't like. I don't like it because it affects the flavor of things like stocks, at least it has in the tests that I've run with it. Now, the only way to keep it at pressure then is to make sure that you're keeping that little steam going all the time, which I don't I don't like. I've never liked it.
+
+[57:23] Another thing I don't like is because there's always steam going through that valve when you're working it, that and the valve is a mechanism that turns. That valve gets clogged very easily and gets burnt out very easily. Of the five Fagor pressure cookers that we had at the French Culinary Institute for the five years that I was working with Phagor pressure cookers there, we burnt out every one that we had. The mechanisms got burnt out because they got clogged and they wouldn't hold anymore because they're hard to clean for the students that are working with them, or they would melt out because someone had flames licking over the side and the pressure mechanism, which is very close to the side of the pin and the phagor, would get ruined, right? That's never happened to me in a Coon Recon.
+
+[57:58] I've had the handles broken off of my Coon recon. I've had the little plate on the top, the diverter plate get ripped off and thrown away, but the sucker still holds pressure and doesn't clog, and the valve is extremely easy to clean. Also, Coon Recon doesn't need the vent at all. If you venting in a coon recon, it means you put it over pressure and the safety is released where where the spring goes up and releases steam out of the same spring valve. So uh, you know, both those criticisms of the Kun Recon.
+
+[58:27] Coon Recon's also fairly easy for me to uh adjust. So go online, look it up. Coon Recon, still my favorite pressure cooker. Cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org.
+
+[58:48] You can find all of our archives programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today.
+
+[59:12] Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program was brought to you by Catskill Provisions. Located in a small corner of Northwest Catskill Mountains. They specialize in creating raw, all natural handmade food products. For more information, visit Catskillprovisions.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwright Brooklyn.
+
+[0:18] If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Cooking issues. Cooking issues! Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues, coming to you live but late in the back of Roberta's Pizzeria on Tuesday in Ba Bushwick, baby. Tramming a little bit.
+
+[1:13] Yeah, chairing a little uh Bootsy. Bub Bushwick, baby. Yeah. So what happened today? Why am I late?
+
+[1:20] Yeah. It was like my normal, like it's normal. Okay, it was not because it was not because of uh last night's Booker and Dax one year anniversary party, which was crazy. Crazy party. We had uh we uh Booker and Dax, which is the bar, you know, that I have uh attached to Sambar, you know, the uh uh the Momofuku restaurant of great repute.
+
+[1:44] And uh anyway, uh, we had our one year, uh, one year we've been open one year, so we cleared away uh like all of the chairs. We had a pinata full of airline bottles of Saint Germain and Haribo. That was crazy I I beat it with our baseball bat. We have a baseball bat at uh Booker and Dax there that everyone who works at or has worked at Booker and Dax at any point signs the baseball bat in Sharpie. And it is uh, you know, it's it's up there as kind of a customer relations tool, but also uh also for pinatas, which you know, my dream is to have uh regular piñata service at the bar.
+
+[2:19] We can't do it now because we don't have an area where we can just just devote it to pinatas. You know what I mean? Wow. You you'd probably be the first. I mean, imagine if you could go.
+
+[2:29] This is my dream. You go and see, you know, is it look if you do it at your bar or restaurant, all you gotta do is say, you know, just give a little give a little props back because here's here's everyone would want to go to their on their birthday and and beat a pinata while they're drinking that's full of like cool things, not like necessarily the crap that you got when you're a kid, although the odd Hot Wheels car would not be bad in an adult pinata as well, you know. Uh, but uh, you know, kind of like adult candies, doesn't have to be full of airline bottles of booze. It was provided by a booze company, and that's why you know ours was full of airline bottles of uh plastic airline bottles, by the way. Total we're we're safety conscious folk.
+
+[3:09] But anyway, uh that's not the reason uh I was late. I was trying to find some information. I couldn't find my copy of Lowry's Meat Science, and by the time I finally found it, I missed the subway that I normally get. That's the actual reason. Nice.
+
+[3:21] Yeah. But anyways, uh unfortunately, today not joined in the studio with uh the hammer. She is uh she has some non cooking issues that she has to take care of today, so she won't be joining us. And so, you know, Jack and Joe, thank thank God, are here with us today, but you know, I don't yell at them because they don't uh irritate me on a consistent basis. They don't they don't spend like like their their entire waking moment figuring out new ways to uh get me bent out of shape.
+
+[3:50] Joe's been working on it. Yeah? Yeah, he's been he's been doing some research. Do some research, like uh do has he developed some sort of crazy you know food aversions, or does he believe in some sort of uh nutritional BS hype that's just gonna get me all spooled up and and and blasted out or no? I'm shopping for shoes right now.
+
+[4:09] Oh man, are they like are they cool shoes anyway? Really cool. Wait till wait till next week. I'm gonna have some new kicks. Alright, cool.
+
+[4:16] Well, if you if you really want to tick me off, like you know, buy 'em, wear them once and return them. That's the that's the st that's the star's jam right there. Although she hey, I think she's grown out of it. Look, we all have the things that we do, you know, when we're growing up, and sometimes it takes some of us longer to grow out of those habits than other people. You know what I mean?
+
+[4:32] That's all. That's all I'm saying. Call it your questions live to 7184972128. That's 7184972128. Follow-up from uh one of our questions before.
+
+[4:41] We were talking, I think a week or two ago on um seasoning cast iron pads, a subject that comes up uh quite often, and I had mentioned that I'd read a blog by uh my her name just went straight out of my brain. That's all right. Uh because you could go look it up on the last show. But uh she recommended using linseed oil, uh aka flaxseed oil, uh a food grade version of it, of course, uh, because it's obviously uh from a painter's perspective, the drying oil par excellence, so it's going to polymerize much faster and uh uh, you know, I guess at lower temperatures, although I'm not uh I don't I don't have the numbers in front of me. Uh it's gonna make a nice coating in your in your pan.
+
+[5:16] Uh now, according to Dan, whatever it is, 76 LA, blah blah blah. I don't know whether it also has good carbon residue content, right? Which is not just adding to the polymerization, but is going to create the nonstick stuff. I'm not gonna get into that again. All I'm going to say is our good buddy, uh Michael Natkin uh from Herbavoracious, uh wrote uh wrote in uh with his two cents saying that he has tested that with uh with uh flaxseed oil, and he says that it's complete baller, awesome, super hard, awesome coating in his pants.
+
+[5:46] So, you know, we trust him, so take his advice. I have not I have not tested it. I want to start calling him, I wonder whether he'd be offended if I called him Captain Vegetable. Anyone remember that it was a little known Sesame Street character called Captain Vegetable. You guys remember this guy?
+
+[5:59] I do not. Captain Vegetable, like he's like Sesame Street went through this phase where they're trying to get, I guess, kids to eat their vegetables, and so they had this this vegetable guy who's like, it is our Captain Vegetable, but he's like ne he never became popular, like all the other like weird little Sesame Street craps, like the like the two dudes with the clock, yep, yep, yep, yep, yep. Remember those guys? Yeah, I got those guys. I thought they turned Cookie Monster into like the Veggie Monster, though.
+
+[6:21] Is that true? Oh God. Someone find out whether this is the case and get back to me. That's like uh that's a deal breaker right there. Yeah, that's a veggie monster?
+
+[6:31] That's the worst. The veggie- you know what? Hell no. No. You know what I mean?
+
+[6:38] God, no. Veggie monster. Unacceptable. This is not right. Uh Don Rollins writes in.
+
+[6:43] Hello at cooking issues. I'm going to start uh working in a bar that uses thin half moon ice. What can I do to keep the ice from over diluting my drinks? Alright, well, here's the deal. Uh the half moon ice, uh, I mean, it depends on the machine.
+
+[6:58] I'm assuming if you're using a commercial machine that uh well here here's the issue. A couple issues. So uh ice and dilution is related to uh a number number of factors. If you're shaking, the main problem from the half moon ice is going to be uh shards that are broken off in the uh in your shaker. Uh and those shards that are broken off actually aren't gonna uh dil over dilute your product right away, but when you strain them through your uh regular hawthorn strainer, which is the one with the spring going around it, uh those crystals make it through and those things will melt quite quickly and then they'll produce it uh uh in your glass, right?
+
+[7:34] Because normally when you're shaking a drink, you don't serve it with with ice, so the dilution is fixed from the moment it's poured out of the shaker, except for these crystals that are gonna melt out. And so the solution around that is to um is to just dump um is to just you know uh put it when you're pouring it, pour it through a double tea strainer, and that's gonna get rid of those crystals of ice. It will hurt somewhat the foamy head that you can get out of a shaking drink, but you know, there you have it. Uh also uh when you're stirring, right? When you're stirring a drink, uh it doesn't really matter what kind of ice you're using, except for things look nicer or don't look nicer, as long as you realize that the smaller the cubes and the faster you stir, the faster you're gonna dilute.
+
+[8:19] So all you have to do is adjust your uh your your times, your stirring times, uh according to the type of ice that you're using. So you can do a stirred, I mean it's if you use very, very fine ice when you're stirring, the chilling is so rapid that it's difficult to get a consistent stir out of it. But with any normal size ice, it's possible to uh get a nice consistent stir. If it's uh it's probably wet ice, in which case you should probably make it a practice to um when you put when you pack ice into something you're gonna stir with, put a strainer top over and shake the excess water out of it, snap the excess water into the sink before you do your stir. This can help uh alleviate some of the excess uh water of dilution you have on the outside, if that's a problem for your drinks.
+
+[9:03] Or just assume that you're gonna use the relatively similar amount of ice every time, and therefore the water load from the uh water on the outside of the ice is going to be the same every time you do it. It's all about consistency. With a stir drink, it's all about consistency. So as long as you can make it repeatable, you can make it good. Uh with the shake-in drinks, I really feel that a large cube is going to produce a better result.
+
+[9:25] Actually, what you really want to do is a large cube with a small cube, a couple small cubes in there. Uh, and I think we've talked about it, so I'm not gonna you know go into it again unless somebody writes it and says, please go into it again. Uh but uh you know what you can do is usually in a bar or a restaurant, there is some freezer space, and uh depending on how many shaken cocktails you make a night, it could be economical from a space standpoint, definitely from a resource standpoint, because it does cost very little to freeze ice cubes if you have the time and space. Is uh go get uh the ice cube molds, the two inch by two inch ice cube molds, get the ones from Cocktail Kingdom, which are made from uh, I believe they're made from a polyurethane, not from a silicone uh tests that I've not verified myself, but that were done by Evan Freeman, uh, you know, uh famous bartender years ago, where that certain silicone molds can impart a taste to the water uh that the ice cubes, uh that when you freeze ice cubes, it can impart a taste to them. I've never done this test myself, but this is what he says.
+
+[10:22] Uh and so that is a feasible way to generate cubes for shaking. However, when it comes to beautiful presentation ice, my friend, you are S O L. Then you'll have to do some uh either like buy ice to have it brought in, which is expensive, which is what we do, or uh start a freezing campaign with uh igloo coolers and whatnot. We could talk more about that uh if if someone's interesting. But if you're just interested in over diluting, it's it it's not going to be much of a problem.
+
+[10:45] Just make sure that you strain your shaking drinks through a tea strainer. Caller. Caller? Oh, reverb! Caller, you're on the air.
+
+[10:54] Hey Dave. My name's Nick. I'm calling from Seoul Korea. Oh, hey, Nick, that's awesome. Uh my question is about cold smoking bacon.
+
+[11:03] I've been cold smoking bacon in this large old file cabinet with uh smoke daddy attached to the side of it. Smoke that it generates and uh pumps smoke into the cabinet chamber and hence cold smoking the meat, I suppose. Uh it's been working pretty good, actually. I've been able to produce fairly good bacon with it. What concerns me though is that uh even with cold smoking, the wood still combusts.
+
+[11:26] Right. Incinerated, sending all sorts of undesirable nasty elements into the air and ultimately in onto my bacon, I suppose. So I was wondering if there's a way to prevent or drastically reduce that. Yeah, here's the the problem is is that uh the smoke flavors that you know that we all love are due to the pyrolysis of the meat, which is taking place at uh elevated temperatures, right? And so I mean there are definitely you know, if you go way over on temperature, then you can you produce more of those nasty things, then you get more also more of those burnt acrid uh, you know, those burnt acrid kind of flavors that that none of us like.
+
+[12:10] So you definitely want to control temperature, but I mean, the unfortunate truth is is that uh there are you know what are you know deemed to be carcinogenic and unhealthful components that are generated purely as as a result while the same things that we like are being produced. Now you you can filter the smoke, right? Which is I guess how they do when they're making liquid smoke, they can um they can they they recondense the smoke back to a liquid and then they can fractionate that into uh its different parts, and then um then they can separate out some of the things that are carcinogenic. But the um but it's you know very would be very difficult for you in in the way you're doing it. However, you know, you I don't know, I haven't done my my research uh you know re recently.
+
+[13:05] I probably I probably should as what the current feeling is of the actual level of risk or whether anyone's done uh risk uh you know risk increased studies based on smoke in meats and consumption. I don't know if those studies have been done yet because I haven't uh I haven't read them. My feeling is is that in the near future, and by that I mean like the next 10 or 20 years, that uh you know, air quality is becoming a lot more important. Not just food club, but air quality in kitchens is becoming more important. And uh, you know, the the research that came out you know several years ago on um the deleterious effects uh of uh wok oil smoke in uh in women in China in particular and uh increased cancer rates because of it, I think like more of those kind of studies about uh kind of airborne things in your kitchen are are going to become i important.
+
+[13:57] So I mean I would definitely invest in some good ventilation in any rate, but it's gonna be difficult to eliminate, I think, all that stuff entirely. Does that makes sense or no? Uh it does. Uh I've looked at uh vaporizers. I don't know if that's a step in the right direction or yeah.
+
+[14:12] I mean the problem is if the vaporizers are not, I mean, the whole point of the vaporizer is to try and is they're distilling they're they're they're releasing things without the burning, right? So I mean, right, they're built for they're built for liberating THC from marijuana to be blunt. Uh but the you know, I don't I've I obviously have I put wood chips in them before. I have one, uh, but I I you know, but I haven't used it. It's it's it's in years, it's packed away in my in my storage closet.
+
+[14:43] I get one out. I can get one out and test it. You want me to test it? I just don't think it's gonna generate I don't think it's gonna generate the the temperatures needed to make the smoke because I mean the whole point of the vaporizer is to have a controlled heat so that you're not getting that kind of combustion. And the flavor, the actual flavor components that we're making in wood are due to a high temperature pyrolysis uh you know, you know, reaction where that is taking place like in you know, not at like 400 F, but like at 400 C, you know, 400 Celsius, which is like what's a lot higher.
+
+[15:17] Uh I could try to dredge up at some point uh some literature on um the difference in uh the relative things that are being you know released from uh from wood smoke at different temperatures. But the issue is I think that you I think that they're inherently linked that you're making the stuff that you don't want while you're making the stuff that you do want, that you get, you know, that they come kind of hand in hand. Um but and I don't know of any good way to uh filter it except I wonder whether you could draw the smoke through water and get rid of some of something. I don't know. I'd have I have to do some uh research.
+
+[15:50] It might be it might be possible, but I think you're not gonna you're not gonna be able to generate the flavor you want without generating the unwanted stuff that you know that you don't want. That's my feeling. I could be wrong. I'd like to get some other input on it. I have to do some more research.
+
+[16:04] Alrighty. Alrighty. Well, listen, uh shoot me back on Twitter with anything you find. And I'll and if I if I if I can find anything interesting, I'll talk about it on the next show. All right, thanks.
+
+[16:13] Thank you for calling in from South Korea. You want to take our first break? We have another caller. Oh, we have another caller? All right, caller, you're on the air.
+
+[16:20] Hi, Dave. This is uh Nick from Denver. How's it going? Going all right. How's Denver doing?
+
+[16:25] Good, good. Nice. Um so I had a question about um it was uh Nasin Mirvald's new book. Um it was Modernist Cuisine for Home. Right.
+
+[16:34] Um, and I was going to do his short ribs recipe and um he commented on uh using zip top bags for uh I think a long period of time with low temperature cooking. And he mentioned that for um safety and reliability issues, he recommended only using um a vacuum sealed bag. And I was just wondering if you could comment on that. Mostly for the safety issue. Well, why did he say it was unsafe?
+
+[17:00] Do you remember? I don't have the book. Uh so he he just mentioned that it was unsafe, and then he uh on his uh on his recipe page and then he referenced another page in the book, but it didn't really go into any more detail on what on why it would be unsafe. What temperature are you cooking? Um it was going to be 60 degrees Celsius for about two days.
+
+[17:22] Yeah. So it's an it's an interesting point. Uh I've heard other people say that there is some sort of a safety issue with it. Now, here's here's something I know for a fact. Uh Grant Aikitz, maybe four years ago, posted a video online using Ziploc bags uh and got uh an angry call from S.
+
+[17:44] C. Johnson Wax, a family company, and saying that they're not uh they're not set up to be used for that uh XYZYZ because they haven't tested it, right? And so I don't know where this the safety issue on zippies came in uh regards to cooking because they're rated for reheating. They're made from polyethylene without plasticizers. Uh so and they're rated to be in constant contact with your food at normal ambient temperatures f indefinitely.
+
+[18:20] Uh and they're rated for reheating the food. I don't know of any published data saying that there is anything that's leaching in or out of polyethylene ziploc bags. And by the way, if you smell a Ziploc bag as opposed to smelling polyethylene film, polyethylene film uh has to have uh the thin stuff like saran, it's not saran, but you know what I mean, the the plastic wrap. Uh they have solvents in them to help them uh get them into those thin sheets and roll them out quickly, and those have an odor almost always, uh, whereas uh zippies do not. Uh so you know I always consider them relatively neutral.
+
+[19:00] I don't really understand where the safety issue comes in so long as your temperatures are down like 60 and and 50, where uh as far as I can tell, polyethylene is fine in those service ranges for continuous duty, right? Now, uh I could be wrong on this because I haven't looked up the studies right now, but this is my feeling. Here's the issue on uh on polyethylene. Is it is polyethylene, unless you have one that has a special vapor barrier in it, like a multi multi-layer uh film technology in it, uh polyethylene not such a great vapor layer. Yeah, that's why I use the by the way, the um the ones that are rated for freezer, because they're supposedly a better vapor barrier.
+
+[19:46] But you can get oxygen migration through a Ziploc bag because they're not as depending on which one you use, because they're not as um they're not as gas impermeable. So there could be perhaps a quality issue over time. Also, remember there is residual oxygen inside of a Ziploc bag more so than in a vacuum. But you also have to remember that when I'm vacuuming down uh a lot of products, I mean, re red meat's not so much, but like on other things, I'm not sucking a hard vacuum anyway, because I think it's deleterious to the meat quality. So I I don't really I uh look i there is an issue where uh you know someone could take a Ziploc bag and put the temperature too high and then you get melting, right?
+
+[20:25] At 60, I don't really see that that's a problem. Also, uh there could be an issue with residual oxygen in the bag. However, over a two-day cook period at 140 degrees uh Fahrenheit, 60 Celsius, ain't nothing growing in that thing. Do you know what I mean? You know, perhaps it might be deleterious on on uh on its capability to be stored for a long period of time, but if you're not using it for extremely lengthy lengthy storage, right, I don't see that it's that uh big big of a deal.
+
+[20:53] You might get uh you know perhaps you know slightly more oxidation in there than you would otherwise, but again, not a safety issue. So I don't I don't really understand where this comes from, and I've heard other people talk about it, unless it's like and Nathan is not the kind of guy who uh so so there are many books, and I I won't I won't name them in particular uh and authors and people in general who they're there are when they write they say things that are untrue uh and they know it's untrue if you go and you call them on it, they say it because, well, it's too complicated to explain what's really going on to the average cook, right? And uh and I don't want them to make a mistake and do something that's dangerous, so I'll just tell them it's unsafe to do something even though it's not true. And I've had this conversation with authors, with chefs and with teachers. And I think that's a cra I think that's a crap way of working.
+
+[21:43] You know what I mean? I think it's just uh I think it's doing a complete disservice. Nathan's not that kind of a guy. So for all I know, he has a reference somewhere about it being unsafe, but I'd lo I'd love to see it because I consider uh low temperature, and by that I mean kind of sixty even up to sixty-three and below in a zippy to be fine practice. I only do it on short-term cooks, but I don't uh and he I know is fine with it on short term cooking in the range of several hours.
+
+[22:11] But I don't know uh I don't know what study he's referencing to say that it's gonna be bad for longer periods. It's a long-winded answer, I'm sorry, but it's kind of an important subject. Yeah. Then I feel like I didn't answer your question at all, but it's pretty helpful. It's pretty helpful.
+
+[22:25] All right. All right. Well, look it try to find it and twit uh you know, tweet on in to the cooking issue, see if you can find his reference for that or uh where he references it from, uh, because uh this is a discussion I'd love to have uh either with him or anyone else uh on it because it's something that I'd like to get to the bottom of because the Ziploc bag is a fantastic tool for all of those people who can afford a circulator, especially at the lower price point now, or who make your own, but don't have the several thousand dollars it takes to make a vacuum machine. And zippies are still the best way to cook uh things like um uh fish that you don't really want to vacuum, or poultry that you don't really want to vacuum. Uh, or if you don't have time to chill down your meat after your initial sear and you want to do zippies to cook a steak, me, zippy, you know, zippies are great.
+
+[23:09] I love them. Uh, even though the SC Johnson Wax family company does not want me to use them for this purpose, uh, I find them incredibly useful. So I I'd really like to know if I'm doing a bad thing. Sound good? All right.
+
+[23:21] Uh all right, thank you, brother. Thanks for calling in. Uh, and let's go to our first commercial break. Uh Fish is Fish Is Vodka. You're listening to Cooking Issues on Heritage Radio Network.org.
+
+[24:48] Cat Skill Provisions has Valentine's Day literally in the bag with their seal the deal gift bag. Start with chocolate honey truffles and then move on to breakfast and bed with their traceable organic pancake mix and New York State maple syrup. Sure to satisfy any ardent local. Check out the Cat Skill Provisions Seal the Deal package at www.catskillprovisions.com. What do you think of that?
+
+[25:14] Seal the deal Valentine's Day package. Seal the deal. You know, that is a that is an admirable name. Seal the deal. Yeah.
+
+[25:21] You know what I mean? And it's like even just buying it implies that you know you're gonna seal the deal, right? So it's like if you have any, if you're wondering, are you gonna seal the deal? You get to seal the deal package, you're like, deal is sealed. Right?
+
+[25:35] I mean, that's it, deal is sealed. You know, uh like I will not name any names, but uh, you know, again, I have uh uh a bar, and one of the functions of a bar uh is to take two people who are looking to find uh other people to do other things with and to meet them to kind of grease the social wheels as they say and then let them go off, right? This is one of the functions of a bar. And uh, you know, I was playing some hardcore seal the deal music last night. I was busting out uh, you know, ignition.
+
+[26:06] I was yeah. I mean, like I I was doing we did we did about a two hour um kind of like uh dan like dancy dancy kind of like rap anthem set like you know, California love and all that kind of stuff. And then, you know, afterwards I broke into like a couple I went ignition and then a couple other songs like that, and then Barry White at the end of the night went after we did the last call into Marvin Gaye, and I'm not gonna I'm not gonna call you out. You know who you are. We're not sealing the deal.
+
+[26:37] Why do I go to work? Why do I get up? Why do I eat breakfast and work and breathe air if I cannot help you seal the deal? You know what I'm saying? Yeah.
+
+[26:46] Man, Barry White into Marvin Gay is like that's like level five seal the deal. I know it. And you know what? You know what the problem was? The individual who I'm talking to, maybe you should have gotten the Catskill provisions sealed in the situation.
+
+[26:59] Because then, as we say here at Cooking Issues, it's pre-sealed. Right? You know what may not seal the deal? I I love we've got we got an audition video in from Joel Gargano. I wish I wish I could play this.
+
+[27:13] I mean, it's radio, obviously. We can't see the video, but we've got Joel just standing here with a guitar, kind of looking at the camera, and he's playing an acoustic version of the cooking issues theme song. So let's let's give that a quick run before we move on. Alright, let's do it. One second here.
+
+[27:28] What's Joel's group again? Uh I don't think he has a name for it. Cooking Issues intro. Go. We're all social creas.
+
+[27:50] We've got some questions. Jackie Joe 2. They're all here now. So let's say help us. What do you think, man?
+
+[28:07] I think I think we've got like an American Idol show we can put together now. Definitely. And and and thank you for finally giving Joe, in the song. You know why? You know why, fellow frontman, fellow front men, frontmen always give each other props.
+
+[28:14] Am I right, Joe? It's it's hard work, man. It is. It's hard work being the front man. Right.
+
+[28:25] I mean, because you have to be you have to be on all the time. I mean, you do get you get all the benefits as well, but you always have to, you know, pretend that you're like, you know, all juiced up, right? Yeah. There's there's lots of uh, you know, just pretending you're pretending that you're actually excited when you're not. Yeah.
+
+[28:39] Like you're ready to rock, but you're actually really ready to go to bed. Look, I tell people this all the time. And it's the same with cooking, doing demos, like being here. It's like it, you know, the the average person, like they're there to see you perform. They don't care whether you've had a bad day.
+
+[28:53] What is that what does that matter to them? They don't they don't give a rat's behind whether or not, you know, you know, your foot just fell off or you know, you you know, your your puppy fell in your meat grinder. That's not important to them. What's important to them, they came to see a show. You agreed to provide a show.
+
+[29:07] Uh, they came to see the show. So you gotta get amped up. That's all there is. That's why, you know, even as much as I love why I'm not gonna get into discussion of you know Axl Rose and the old Guns N' Roses shows. I'm just not gonna get into it.
+
+[29:17] I'm just not gonna get into it right now. But uh, right? You'll you're not that you're not the kind of like Joe. You're not the kind of like hat over your head, stare at the floor kind of a front man, are you? No, no, not at all.
+
+[29:26] Yeah, good. Good. I mean uh uh look. It's a show. Yeah, there's a certain place for that.
+
+[29:31] There's a certain kind of music where everyone's like, hey, let's let's all let's all you know, let's go see someone who doesn't care whether I'm alive or dead. Yeah, let's let's just be sad and in a room together. Yeah, no. Yeah, let's not do that. Yeah, that was never me.
+
+[29:43] Like well, I mean you obviously that's not how I like to work. Obviously. Uh anyway, okay. So what's the story? Joel's gonna come in and and serenade uh the Joel's gonna come in in March.
+
+[29:54] Yeah, he's gonna do the song live. We're gonna record it here, and he he said he really wants to do some commercials like the TechServe one because he feels it may be a life-changing experience. So I'm I'm not gonna deny him that opportunity. Hey, hey man, it's it's it's not it's not my money. Talk to the TechServe people.
+
+[30:08] I'm for it. That's right. Right? Right? All right.
+
+[30:12] So uh howdy everyone. Would why would you choose one method of applying Activa RM over another? By the way, Activa RM is the brand name for uh Ginamoto, the MSG people's meat glue, transglutaminase, the enzyme, the miracle enzyme that's used to glue or weld bond uh meat together. Uh uh and so i i it's transglutaminase uh by a Ginamoto is a company Activa is the uh is the brand name for all their transglutaminases and RM is the one that's most commonly used. And it's a mixture of enzyme, uh casein, which milk protein, and um and uh maltodextrin, okay?
+
+[30:52] And you can either sprinkle it onto things or you can make it into a paste and paint it on. Okay. Uh which is a slurry. It's called the slurry technique. Just so you guys know, in case you don't know.
+
+[31:01] Uh is a slurry better for some app and you can buy it from modernist pantry.com, even though they're not sponsored anymore. Okay. Uh is a slurry better for some applications, uh, and a sprinkling better for others. Have you done any tests with commercial? Okay, that's one first question.
+
+[31:15] Uh look, Nils, who uh you know, I I I got my first meat glue from Nils, uh Norrin and from Wiley, because they were the two first people in New York to use it. And I think Wiley might use slurries sometimes, but Nils always hated the slurries because he didn't want to put a lot of liquid into the meats that he was uh gluing. So he always did uh sprinkle. Uh there's sometimes a slurry is okay, but uh, you know, ninety nine point nine percent of the actual gluing of meats together that I do, I do uh with uh a sprinkle technique. Um you know, the the the paste thing is you know fast.
+
+[31:50] I guess it's easy to dose out, but I just never uh big uh proponent of it uh so much. Okay. And then second, have you done any tests with commercial grade beef cooked sous vide? I was reading up on beef grading recently and never knew uh commercial grade beef is basically beef from older uh animals that are marble that are that are marbled like prime beef. Not technically, but like in other words, primer choice, I think uh it uh any of those are commercial.
+
+[32:16] Um couldn't a great deal of money be saved and deeper flavor realized by cooking commercial beef sous vide until tender. If so, where would a consumer find the lower grades of beef? Okay, this is a very interesting question. Uh I have never actually run the test. I don't have any um personal experience cooking uh older meats.
+
+[32:35] But the way meat grading works is uh meat grading is bizarre because it's based uh solely on the goal, the sole goal of beef grading is tenderness. That's it. Uh they don't care flavor or anything like that, except for they also grade much higher for fat, right? So the the way it works is if you look at the beef grading charts and um you see that there on the there's uh an age range and then a fat marbling range, and you have to be in certain things. So older cuts of meat, older animals uh have in general uh tougher meat, and you know, 100% they will have tougher meat.
+
+[33:12] The same animals' meat will get tougher as it ages, right? Uh and so at a certain point, uh after I think, you know, 24 months or whatever, it it's no longer really labeled as either prime or choice. And but it can be extremely highly marbled, in which case uh it is sold as commercial, right? So standard is what's lower marble. I believe standard beef is lower marbled than choice, right?
+
+[33:40] But young, right? Whereas commercial can be very highly marbled. In fact, I think it has to be more highly marbled in order, otherwise it would be canner beef or whatnot, but is from an older animal. And it's going to be tougher, and so people don't, but I don't know a good source of getting it. I will say this.
+
+[34:03] By going to uh Spain and having going to a restaurant whose whose specialty is old, old meat, like seven-year-old meat. And they said the flavor of it was fantastic. Now, as you point out, low temperature cooking might be a good way to tenderize these cuts of meats that are older. Here are the caveats and what I think. In general, what I think you're going to want to do is get a uh a well-finished, highly marbled older piece of meat and then dry age it.
+
+[34:32] You know, these older cuts of meat, I think you're going to want to dry age them to increase the tenderness because uh my feeling is if you try to tenderize the meat just by doing low temperature cooking, that uh you might have a tendency over time, because remember, when a meat gets older, uh not the it's not just the collagen changing and and the muscles changing, the enzyme uh components are changing, the um you know the darkness of it, the flavor of it. Uh and so I have a feeling that the older the meat is, the more it might get a kind of livery or gamey taste as it's cooked for long periods in a bag. So I might say that a dry aging of it might be a better way to do it. Get like a primal and then dry age it and then do, you know, one of your normal low temperature cooking. Because I, you know, again, I find that low temperature cooking to tenderize tough meats that aren't tough because of collagen, but are tough because the muscle fibers themselves have toughened up.
+
+[35:24] Uh tends to produce mushy meat when it's cooked for a long time. I really no one ever gets into discussions with me about mushy versus tender, but I think it's something that really wants to be uh talked about. Just a note if you're going to buy muscle meat that's from animals over 30 uh months of age in the United States, uh, you need to make sure that uh that all of the spinal material and any nerve material has been removed because that's uh you know, precautions that are taken for BSE, bovine, spongiform, encephalopathy, acquis Kreutzfeld, new variant, the deadly disease known as Mad Cow. Okay. Um that makes sense, guys?
+
+[36:01] Or no. Yeah, they don't care. They're like that. Now they're being like Nastasha, like ah, they don't care. They don't care.
+
+[36:06] Okay. Uh Anna from Budapest writes in, dear Nastasha, Dave, and Jack. Joe, you got shaft on this one again. Uh, I mean, Joe, yeah, I said Joe, right? Uh, I've been listening to your show for over a year now, and in the meantime, I'm trying to listen to old episodes as well.
+
+[36:19] I still have 14 left, so I'm hesitant whether my question has already been mentioned, but I'll give it a go. Hey, if you only have 14 episodes left, I mean we've had like a hundred episodes, 100 and change episodes, right? I mean, we can we can we can double up on a question, but you I don't think uh you've answered this one yet. In October, we were lucky enough to get an invitation to an Uruguayan wedding. Uh, and during a two-week uh Buenos Aires Uruguay trip, we had a great time.
+
+[36:39] My fiance had been obsessed with dulce de leche. By the way, I love to call it Dolce Dolce and uh dulce sorry, dulce de leche and piss off all my all all my Spanish friends. But some I won't do that though. Dulce de leche. Uh before uh I got hooked as well, uh while I was there.
+
+[36:55] We had a chance to stay with locals who actually make their own dulce de leche from scratch, and they told us the recipe, but for some reason it does not work for us. We don't get the right consistency. And ours is runny instead of thick and creamy. I was wondering if you could tell me what we were doing wrong or if we were missing something or have a uh have a recipe, if I have a recipe that really works. Uh our recipe is two liters of milk, uh two liters of water, one kilo of sugar, one teaspoon of soda.
+
+[37:16] We're told to heat the milk, the water, and sugar together. Once the liquid boils, we should put the soda in it and let it simmer for two hours, stirring once in a while. I use whole milk from the farmer's market. The second time I even added some golden syrups uh because I thought the sugar uh might help the consistency, but there's no difference. In fact, the one with the sugar syrup got runnier.
+
+[37:32] We tried cooking for four and a half hours and only two hours to see if it thickens, uh, but it didn't. The liquid turns dark, I guess because of caramelization, but doesn't get thick. Uh should we put butter in at some point? If yes, when should we cover the pan with a lid? Should we stir it or let it simmer?
+
+[37:45] What does the soda do, etc., etc.? Alright, look. Uh I don't know what the water is in there for. I once uh, you know, my typical way of making uh the making the dulce de leche is to use the uh sweetened condensed milk uh uh and put it in a uh in a pressure cooker for between at 15 psi between 45 minutes and an hour. I know that's cheating.
+
+[38:07] The first time I ever saw someone make the real stuff, and of course they called it a requipe, but uh you know, was in uh Colombia, up in the in the mountains over there in Colombia. They uh this like little old lady you made it by just pouring milk in a pan. I was like, oh, whoa, you can do that. Here's here's what's going on with it. Now, if you look at Indian sweets, uh they have boiled uh milk salads, but they're not as brown as the dulce de leche because they're not adding that uh baking soda.
+
+[38:33] Now, I uh I've heard some people say the baking soda is not necessary. However, I think it is. What the baking soda is doing is it's not really caramelization that you're looking at. You're actually doing uh Mayard reactions to it with the high heat, right? And that's accelerated by adding uh the baking soda, which is uh alkaline.
+
+[38:50] So the alkaline stuff is there to help the browning along as it cookings. The thickening of the dulce de leche is strictly due to the concentration of milk solids. And as the milk solids get more concentrated in the presence of the uh the alkaline baking soda, it's gonna get browner and browner and thicker and thicker. To give you an idea, standard a standard practice would be to take I don't I see I think your main problem you need on you need the lid off, by the way, because you need to evaporate water. I think your main problem right there is the uh water.
+
+[39:21] I don't know why the water is in the recipe at all. I mean, typical thing would be to take uh for every liter of uh of milk to take with add sugar baking soda, take it down to about uh 250 mils. And I think that's gonna be uh your main uh problem. Do it on a volume basis, not on a time basis. What's uh what's up, Jack?
+
+[39:40] Oh, wow, you you saw you saw me get animated, huh? I didn't even need to say anything. I have a question for for cooking issues, actually. All right. So we we we spoke with Harold McGee on Friday.
+
+[39:51] We're doing this this series of recordings, and he was one of our featured guys kind of telling his life story. Which, by the way, really interesting, he's uh he's got Indian heritage. I didn't know that. But um he he sort of spoke about avant-garde cuisine and modern cuisine as two separate things. I was wondering how you see those as different.
+
+[40:11] Well, Harold, you know, uh you know, Harold and I have been having this discussion for a long time before uh, you know, uh Mirvold and Chris and you know Maxime and that whole crew proposed modernist cuisine as the title of their book. And uh, you know, the title of that book was proposed specifically because um specifically because you know no one wanted to use the term molecular gastronomy because everyone hates it. You know, everyone who does that kind of work hates it, pretty much in the in the US. And so prior to that, you know, uh you know, m MG and I a lot of times, you know, he would say avant-garde or kind of cutting edge or new or or or whatnot. But uh, you know, avant-garde is always, you know, it was good because it always just means new, and it doesn't imply technology.
+
+[41:01] I mean the important thing is that uh you know, a lot of what's going on isn't technology related. Do you know what I mean? A lot of what's going on in terms of kind of new creativity in food isn't necessarily uh technology. You know, Daniel Patterson doesn't use a whole crap load of technology necessarily or even hydrocolloids anymore, but you would definitely consider his cooking to be part of the avant-garde cooking. Do you know what I mean?
+
+[41:25] Yeah. So I think you know, a lot of it has to do with uh the the focus. I think modernist was, you know, uh, you know, that crews stab at a word that they thought they could get to stick that that that they you know, but my feeling is like every word that describes this is loaded. Avant garde is loaded term, modernist is a loaded t term. You know what I mean?
+
+[41:47] So they're all they're all loaded. Uh in I prefer any of them to molecular. Fair enough, yeah. Yeah. We I I definitely struck that term from from my vocabulary.
+
+[41:56] Yeah, you know what? It's like, yeah, we get it. You know, molecular is easy for people to to wrap their head around, and you know, some people made some uh you know were able to write a bunch of articles, and some chefs got some extra customers because of it, but it's just weak term. Kind of like mixology, right? Mixology, I always hated mixology.
+
+[42:14] Uh turns out that has a longer history, and so I'm getting less and less. I mean, uh I can count on zero fingers the number of times I've referred to myself as a mixologist, but I don't get as angry about the word. I I that that's one of those words that I don't use, but I let it just flow over my head like like water. You know what I mean? Yeah.
+
+[42:34] Kind of like food scientist. Yeah, that one, another one. Like it's like, you know, it uh it would be nice if I was actually a scientist, but I'm not, you know, I'm kind of uh a cook. So uh, but I can read science. I'm not afraid of science.
+
+[42:48] Science doesn't intimidate me, but just not being intimidated by science doesn't make you a scientist. You know what I mean? Fair point. Yeah. Uh we've got time for like one more.
+
+[42:57] Oh man. Well, you know how many shows do I have before Valentine's Day? Uh one next week would be before two, two more. All right. Listen, so Ben from San Francisco, I'm gonna get your question next week on Valentine's because I'm not gonna suggest anything it takes more than a week for you to do, right?
+
+[43:15] Uh so he had a question on he wants to do like a blowout meal for uh Valentine's Day, and I have a lot of suggestions as someone who's cooked many Valentine's uh meals for my wife. You know, we've been together over 20 years. I haven't been married over 20 years, we've been together over 20 years. So I know a lot about cooking for Valentine's at different stages in your life. I've got a Valentine's Day idea.
+
+[43:35] Yeah. Seal the deal. Cat Skill Provisions. Boom! Boom!
+
+[43:39] Uh okay, so we'll handle that one uh next week. Um man, we can tell these questions. I want to devote more time to them. Uh Tim Timothy wrote in about uh some calcium. I have to I'll I'll do this quick.
+
+[43:54] I'll do this quick. Timothy, I hope this is still a place to email questions. It is, otherwise I wouldn't have it. Uh I bought some calcium citrate after reading a New York Times article in the magazine about pre-sliced apples, and was curious if you or Dave had any experience with it or any recommendations for uses beyond the obvious prevention of fruit surface oxidation. Uh and secondly, Dave's spoken on air a few times about the effects of increased acidity in sourdough, slackness, slightly translucent, glossy crumb, etc.
+
+[44:19] And was curious if I can balance that acidity by adding some calcium carbonate. Would this totally poison the bacteria and yeast living in my dough? Or would I get a product with some sourdough flavor and a texture more like bread made with regular yeast? Alright, I'm gonna knock these out bing bang. Um the the apple the article uh referenced in the New York Times magazine was about companies that slice up apples and then dip them in something called nature seal uh that causes the sliced apples to both not turn brown and not turn mushy uh while they sit in your grocery uh case, you know, for like a billion and a half years.
+
+[44:51] But uh actually the calcium is there, not the two main ingredients in nature seal uh are an antioxidant, and it's the antioxidant in it that is preventing the surface oxidation by preventing polyphenol oxidase, which is an enzyme from uh breaking things uh from breaking down um uh you know chemicals in the or agglomerate of them, I guess, in uh in the apple and making it turn brown, right? So that's an antioxidant. The second main active component in uh in the I think it's called nature seal or fresh seal or something like that, is uh the calcium, calcium uh citrate. And calcium citrate is uh is a calcium uh that doesn't have a nasty kind of flavor, it's mildly soluble, but the calcium is primarily there to uh actually craw to uh help stiffen crosslink the pectin. So the calcium is there as a pectin strengthener.
+
+[45:44] So what's going on, they soak it and the surface of the apple gets strong so that it doesn't get mushy even though it's been cut. So it's not there to prevent oxidation. The calcium is there in that case to prevent uh things from getting mushy. And you can use calcium treatment uh in uh and it's better if you also use it with uh some pectin methylesterase enzyme, aka novo shape. Again, I don't know if anyone carries it yet, to uh harden the outside of things that you want to stay crisp on the outside, even if they're cooked.
+
+[46:10] And so you can look at things like uh uh mugaritz's ossified uh uh vegetables, or I, you know, you can add a pinch of calcium to boiling water along with baking soda to counteract the two effects, uh so you can get bright green, like really cooked through uh vegetables that aren't uh total mush bags. Anyway, uh this your second uh hit can you add calcium carbonate to dough? Yeah, calcium carbonate is added to dough as a pH as a dough improver, and it will affect pH because calcium carbonate will react with acid uh whether it's lactic or acetic to form um either uh you know a calcium uh acetate or uh a lactate uh and and reduce the acidity. It won't poison it. However, the the whole the whole point of uh the sourdough is that the it depends on when you're gonna add it.
+
+[46:54] Sourdough starter, you don't want the the pH to be too low for it to be too acidic because it's gonna it's gonna exhaust your uh your bacteria and your yeast, they won't be growing well and they won't be a healthy culture. So you want to maintain the pH uh at the proper level, not just for the flavor of it, but for the health of the actual starter itself. That said, yes, calcium carbonate can be used uh for you know moderate adjustments in uh dough pH. Alright, now on the way out, because I have 13 seconds. Eddie Shepherd writes in from the UK, and uh, I'm gonna let everyone ponder and say what they think on it.
+
+[47:26] Quick question, because I was musing on this myself today. It's not a tech question, but I hope it's okay. Of course it is. So I uh myself, this is Eddie writing, uh, did a philosophy degree before I uh became a chef, and I know Dave studied philosophy, as did Wiley. Uh, I think also maybe Chang, too.
+
+[47:40] Then this week I just met two other chefs that share this background, which I had previously thought was a pretty obscure route to have taken to end up as a chef. So I wondered what, if anything, you thought it might be that connects these two disciplines, or why you think they both seem to appeal to some of us. Of course, there may be no connection, and it's just coincidence a few of us share a philosophy background, but I'd be interested to hear your thoughts all the best, Eddie Shepherd. Eddie, this is an interesting point. What's with the philosophy majors in the cooking?
+
+[48:06] I don't know. I want everyone to think about that if you care. Maybe tweet in some stuff, email us for next week, and we'll have a discussion when Estas back on Cooking Issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[48:38] You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program was brought to you by the Brooklyn Kitchen, a mom and pop operation since 2006. They provide the tools that shape our food culture. Visit them at 100 Frost Street in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, or visit the Brooklyn Kitchen.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radion Network.org for thousands more.
+
+[1:01] Cooking issues! Hello, and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cookie Kitchen is coming after you live on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from 12 to roughly 1 in the back of Robertus Pizza in Bushwick, Brooklyn Here again today with Nastasha Hammer Lopez. Welcome back. Thank you.
+
+[1:20] And and as usual, Jack and uh Joe over in the engineering room. Howdy. Uh by the way, Nastasha, someone uh I said on the tweet out for today's uh program that you were gonna be back. And uh I said, you know, the hammer's gonna be back, and someone's like, is that your nickname? I'm like, no, that's Nastasha's nickname.
+
+[1:37] And uh he's like, Well, what's her Twitter handle? And I was like, Oh, ooh, ooh, no, no, no, no, no, no Twitter handle. I was like, uh you know why well Nastasha only believes in anti-social media. So I told him that Nastasha refuses to have a Twitter handle until they invent antisocial media, and then someone else chimed in and's like, it it already is freaking antisocial media. I was like, hey, hey, point taken.
+
+[2:02] Point taken. So yeah, so apparently, like people are so mean and rough on Twitter, you might actually enjoy it. Like if you had a Twitter handle that had nothing to do with work, so you didn't have to be nice if you could just sit there and be incredibly vicious to people, but people didn't know maybe who you were. You would love that. Yeah.
+
+[2:17] You can do that. Look, it doesn't the Nastasha will invest any amount of time to be vicious that is is needed to be invested. She's always typing on the computer anyway. Why not have it be like uh why not have it be towards Twitter? Oh, Nastasia, you know what Joe did last week while you're gone?
+
+[2:33] He shopped for shoes during the show. Thanks for holding the torch, Joe. Boom! Yeah, no one actually knows what Nastasha is doing on that computer. It's vicious.
+
+[2:43] It's crazy. She's not anyway. Uh welcome back. Thanks. Yeah, how you doing?
+
+[2:47] What would your twit like I'm sure the hammer's already taken, so you couldn't even have that Twitter handle if you wanted. I think it'd have to be a like a secret name so I can call out people. Like me. Yeah. Like you wouldn't tell me.
+
+[2:58] Yeah. You would write in and be like, this guy doesn't know anything. He's an idiot. He's a moron. Right?
+
+[3:04] Uh-huh. Yeah, pretty much. Okay. Uh calling your questions to 718497, 2128, that's 718497-2128. We have one more show before the Valentine's Day, correct?
+
+[3:14] I don't know. Uh yeah. Are you big on Valentine's Day? You know I am. You know I love the Oh I love I mean, I don't really look, and now look, I have two kids, an 11-year-old and uh and an eight-year-old.
+
+[3:24] So I'm more worried about their Valentine's Day at this point, which, you know, when I at that age for me. Growing up Valentine's Day. Get the all ready, Jack. I don't know. I won.
+
+[3:35] Like, oh look, like you get ready to play DJ Collet, all I do is win because I freaking won. Wow. But the point of the matter is, like, in order to become like the all-time champion, like my wife is awesome. Super psyched. You know what I mean?
+
+[3:44] And we started going out on Valentine's Day. So Valentine's Day, almost tw 21 years ago, this Valentine's Day, uh, my wife and I, our relationship can go to the bar and have a drink. Because we've been going out. We will have been together 21 years at that point. But um But yeah, I mean, Valentine's Day always sucked for me.
+
+[4:05] I always hated it growing up. I'm sure my kids will be the same way. Actually, Dax. I bet Dax will have good Valentine's Days. Yeah.
+
+[4:11] It doesn't really matter until like what? I don't know, 14, 13. No, you know what, dude? You're in the thing. I mean, even before then, even like 11, you know, 11, 12, you have to buy the carnations.
+
+[4:22] Is this just in the East Coast, or do we all is everyone in the world have this? Where like you buy carnations and you write stuff on it and the money goes to the school, like to the to the school body, and they go around on Valentine's Day and they hand out the carnations. Might just be. It's just East Coast? Maybe, yeah.
+
+[4:36] Jack, you did that stuff? No. I never did that. Joe? No?
+
+[4:41] No one? Anyway. Horrible. Horrible. And I always they they always, if you never, if no one bought you one, if your friends didn't buy you one, and you would buy different colors, like red was I love you, and green was I don't know.
+
+[4:52] I don't know what the hell green was. Anyway, it's like because who the hell they're fake, these carnations. They just dip the they dip the stems in in coloring and it colors up the carnation. Ridiculous. And you know, it's these crappy carnations that give carnations, which by the way, are a fine flower.
+
+[5:05] It took my it took me about 12 years or 13 years to convince my wife that the carnation was a legitimately good flower. Because she's like, they suck because she's only used to shitty carn. Ooh. Crappy carnations. Crappy carnations.
+
+[5:20] Sorry, folks. Anyway, we've got a collar. Wow. Whoa. Alright, anyway.
+
+[5:26] I I got the Secret Admira one, which means no one bought me one. Now you can play the off. Okay, caller, you're on the air. Hi, that's Johnny Clark from Memphis. Hey Sunday.
+
+[5:35] How are you doing? Doing all right? I'm doing good. I got picked up some stainless steel uh tubing yesterday. Oh yeah.
+
+[5:43] Okay. Yeah yeah, about four and a half feet of it and had it cut into one inch sections and uh leveled it off and everything. And I was trying to figure out the best way to keep the I was making like a savory cheesecake and I wanted to uh cook it in the circulator. Right. And I was trying to figure out the best way to keep it in there because it started pouring out and you know, when the vacuum was pulling, it's pouring out.
+
+[6:11] Yeah, it'll pour out when the So you're bagging how many tubes per? Uh one tube per uh large bug. All right, here's here's the awesome thing. Did you let the vacuum cycle complete? Uh no, I didn't.
+
+[6:28] It's it seemed like it was gonna come up out of the bag. Yeah, yeah, here's here's yeah, here's this is awesome. Now there I mean, oh look, the one problem with course is a cheesecake has some air in it, but assuming you have a fully dense product, let the vacuum cycle complete. Here's what happens when you vacuum something uh it with a with a tube like that. First of all, you gotta make sure that you have enough liquid to fully fill the tube.
+
+[6:48] Because if you don't, the bag will go in and puncture itself on the tube. But if you have enough liquid to fill the tube, all of the liquid will be smashed back into it's a miracle. Well, how liquidy is this? Is it semi solid or or what? Well, it it's cheesecake, but it's uh made with uh like a seventy-five percent moscarome.
+
+[7:10] Uh and it it's pretty much like uh screwone consistency. Right in the end. Right. So here's what's awesome. Like uh like when you suck a vacuum on a straight liquid, I've never tried it with something that's a paste consistency, everything's gonna boil out of your container, and then as soon as the vacuum comes back in, the force of the vacuum will smash it back into the tube.
+
+[7:35] Okay. So it would it'll do that with a dent uh liquid as well, like uh the cheesecake you think? As long as it can move. I mean, you might not get a hundred percent back, but you'll definitely get like ninety-five. I mean, I used to that used to be one of my favorite things to do, uh, because we would vacuum I would vacuum pack uh liquids in in in uh bottles, you know, like doing that.
+
+[7:56] I would like I would pour all the liquid into the bag and then like have the cap on very loose and then put it all in a bag and then suck a vacuum and then the vacuum would shoot all of the liquid inside the bottle. Uh yeah. You know, that's my I used to do that, that's fun. I mean, the you your point is well taken on something that's thick, I mean it eventually will work the way back in there because otherwise there's gonna be a lot of excess force on it because there's gonna be now the the the question is is will the product get forced back into the tube uh prior to the bag feeling enough force on the uh in the um i in the cavity on the inside of the tube prior to that shattering, right? I mean that's the real question.
+
+[8:33] But another thing you could do is I mean, uh do you do you need the vacuum to get the air out? Or are you having problems with air in it without the vacuum? I was trying no, I w uh it does fine in a conventional oven, but I was trying to uh I wanted to try the sous lead cheesecake because I wanted it I wanted the uh the consistency to be like you know uh no air whatsoever, no pocket, no nothing like that. Sure. Well then uh yeah, okay.
+
+[9:03] So if you're looking to compl make it much denser, it then definitely vacuum's the way to go, and just do it and see whether or not it all gets forced back into the tube. I think you have a very good shot of it all being forced back into the tube. You might have to clip the two ends because they're gonna be a little concave or convex, depending on whether you slightly overstuffed or slightly understuffed the tube. But I would definitely go that way. If you're not worried about the density issue, if you're just trying using it as a temperature control issue, well, then I would uh, you know, if you had access to a C vap, obviously I would just cook it in a C vap or a combi oven.
+
+[9:35] But if not, I would try wrapping the tube after it's stuffed with uh saran with plastic wrap, doing a uh you know, a couple of layers of it, uh, and that should be watertight enough for you to potion it that way. But if you're looking to actually remove all the air and dedensify it, I would say that vacuum is the way to go, and it'll all get shoved back in. In fact excuse me, in fact, the reason that it's puffing out is not just because the water lake the water and liquids inside are turning to a vapor, although that's causing it. But any air pockets that you're having in there need to push open and push the product out of the way to get out of the tube. You know what I'm saying?
+
+[10:10] Yeah, so you think I should put in like a a four-inch hotel pan and and run it through a couple of cycles? Oh, you can do that, and that'll get rid of a lot of the air too. But I I have a a strong feeling. I would say I am more than fifty percent positive that if you just stick the tubes with the mixture in the vac bag and su and make sure it's packed in good, and you suck a full vacuum on it, that it will all boil out, but it'll go back in the tube. I'd give you a well, maybe I'll give you 50% odds on that working for you.
+
+[10:39] And if not, I would just put the mixture in the hotel pan, like you say, blast it a couple times in the vacuum to get the air out, then do a dense pack into the tube, and then wrap her in plastic and uh put and do it in the either uh either low temp or do it in the um uh you could do it in an oven if you're uh having good luck in an oven. So you think even though it's uh open at both ends. Oh yeah. Yeah, yeah. As long as there's as long as there's enough I mean it tr try I mean like the the the issue is is is it is it gonna move fast enough to get back into the tube?
+
+[11:11] That's the real real question. But I mean you can try it with water, you'll see if you if you put just enough water to exactly fill that tube and just throw it into the bag with the tube and vacuum it, all of the water will end up in the tube, all of it. But it's uh you know, but uh it's a question when it's so thick whether or not it's gonna move well enough. But I like I say, that's why I'm giving you like fifty I'm not giving you a hundred percent odds, I'm giving you like fifty percent. Yeah.
+
+[11:35] I understand. And what do you suggest uh the one seventy nine Fahrenheit or something like that? Oh, uh cheesecakes, I don't know. I usually do things like that. I can't do the Fahrenheit conversions.
+
+[11:47] I usually do them up in like the I usually do them in like the low eighties, somewhere in there, like the low eighties in Celsius, probably. Uh somewhere up there. Uh yeah. I mean, usually I think I'd have to go back and look at my numbers, been a long time. But anyway, tell us tell us how it works.
+
+[12:01] Sure just say uh a Twitter or whatnot and tell tell me how it works. All right, thanks, Dave. All right, thank you. You too. Um by the way, on Twitter, you know what?
+
+[12:10] If you ever want to insult uh Nastasha, she sees all of my emails, but not my Twitter. Just saying. That's true. Yeah. Just kidding.
+
+[12:19] Patrick Martin's also not on Twitter. I think you guys are the only two. He's not on Twitter? No. Or Facebook or anything.
+
+[12:27] Wow. He's you know, I don't know. Two or two exclusive. Wow. Wow.
+
+[12:32] All righty. Okay. Will Freeman writes in at Rebelcat at Heritage Radio and Dave Arnold. Could you please discuss sparkling water served with espresso? Theory and practice.
+
+[12:40] Word to Nastasha, Jack, and the crew. Again, that's a an and the rest reference from the first Gilligan's Island. Uh remember that? Anyway, I won't go into it again. So uh carbonated water with seltzer.
+
+[12:50] Uh I enjoy it. You don't you know sorry, carbonated water with uh with espresso. I I enjoy it. You don't drink espresso, right, Sas. Any of you guys over there espresso?
+
+[12:59] I've been to it. Yeah, you like the carbonated? I actually have never had the carbonated, but I like espresso. Okay, so when you get it when you order an espresso in a lot of nicer joints, uh they will give you uh a glas a water back, right? A glass of water uh with it, and then a lot of the uh places that I like, like in San Francisco, for instance, like Blue Bottle and other places, they'll give you a carbonated water back.
+
+[13:21] And uh it seems kind of strange. At first you wouldn't think that carbonated water would necessarily go well with coffee. I mean, there's very few carbonated coffee drinks. Manhattan uh special soda being the one obvious um you know that that that's the only really carbonated coffee thing I can think of. So it's not necessarily uh, and by the way, Manhattan doesn't refer to our Manhattan Nastash, it refers to Manhattan Avenue here in Brooklyn.
+
+[13:42] So it's like you know, it's actually a Brooklyn product, so you can't drink it. Uh yeah, and we I we saw the factory. Yeah, yeah. Anyway, so uh I I don't know. I mean, like I I I like it, and I put it this way.
+
+[13:54] What is it there for? Espresso's gone in like 13 seconds, especially like a modern American espresso. You're drinking it in like 13 seconds because of the incredibly short shots that they're pulling these days. It used to be that a double was, you know, like an ounce and three quarters or so, or an ounce and a half, and now like a double is you know, almost not even coating the bottom of your cup at some of these places. I think it's gone a little far uh in in that respect in in some ways, but you have a strong tasting thing and you need something to clear your mouth out at the end.
+
+[14:24] So in general, what I do is I drink the espresso uh and then uh I pound the water, and regular water doesn't clean your mouth out or make you feel refreshed the way sparkling water does. I mean, straight up, right? So I don't think I don't know if there's any theory other than I'm sure the people who started doing it were offering a sparkling mineral water as a as a thing, and that just happened to be the water of their of their of their preference. But uh I didn't find anything uh on the kind of history of it. All I'm saying is I enjoy it.
+
+[14:54] So I'm assuming that you enjoy it as well at Rebelcat. Anyway, uh Ben writes it. Oh, caller, you're on the air. Hello. Howdy.
+
+[15:04] Hi, hi. I'm uh I'm Steven Benson. I'm a big fan of your show. Oh, thank you. Uh I had a quick question about juicers.
+
+[15:11] Okay, good. What's the question? I I need a a juicer that can also juice greens effectively and extract as much as possible out of the green. Uh and I I was looking for one in a in a reasonable price range. Uh and if if that's if that's not possible, then uh is there any way to modify a cheaper juicer to be able to do that?
+
+[15:29] When you say greens, you mean like kale? Yes. Okay. Uh all right, okay, good. So i i what do you have now?
+
+[15:39] Oh, I I don't have one yet. I'm looking I'm in the market. Okay. So the now there's all sorts of juicers that I myself don't uh don't own and haven't even uh tested. My main experience it with juice style juicers are with the smaller uh set the smaller like weird baskets and trifugal guys, and I've never had much uh luck with them.
+
+[16:01] I don't really never been so happy with them. The majority of my experience is with a champion juicer. Champion juicer is a is a masticating juicer, and so you know it's what it does is it's got a a a long nose and it's got little teeth on that long nose, and you shove stuff down and it just grinds it up with the and then the juice uh spits out of the bottom through a mesh screen and then the chaff comes out the front, right? And it the champion can juice just about anything. Uh with the exception it can't do sugar cane.
+
+[16:34] Uh I don't re I don't think it's very good at wheat grass, right? Uh but it does apples, it'll do kale, it'll do all those things, ginger, anything, carrots, uh loves carrots, it loves to do carrots. Now uh the the one gripe people have with the champ and the champion is relatively reasonably priced, right? It's like I think we paid what, like two hundred for it or something like that. And it's uh and it's a monster workhorse, right?
+
+[16:58] You c you can beat the heck out of it all day long and and nothing it's not gonna die. I have I think I said on the show, if not, I've said elsewhere that I ha I had one once that I ran so long and so hard juicing apples that uh the surface of the case was boiling water and the uh and I I actually I actually melted the electronics on the inside of it, the uh safety circuit, but it's still juiced. I mean that's kind of how sturdy these suckers are. Oh wow. But the one gripe that people have about the champion is that it can heat up your products.
+
+[17:32] Okay. And so with greens and certain other things, uh that can be uh a problem. By the way, when you're juicing something, if you juice something that has a tendency to turn brown after it's been uh cut up, what you want to do is put ascorbic acid, vitamin C actually into the pan that you're juicing into, and that's gonna uh that's gonna really um retard the browning that happens, for instance, apples or anything else. But the kale stuff is no problem. But if you need something that's more gentle, right, and for things like greens, you can get uh there there's a juicer called the green star juicer that's be that's it's it runs with two gears, and the two gears crush the product as it's going through, and that produces the juice, and that juice is at a much lower temperature, and so people like it.
+
+[18:15] It's a little more expensive than a champion. I don't have any personal experience with it, but Sam Mason, uh, you know, when he was opening Taylor had a a champion and a juice uh green star, and he said he really liked the green star, but he said the yield was a lot lower. So I don't know how important the yield is, because that's another thing to look at whenever you're looking at a juicer is how much you're leaving behind. Okay, I'm a I'm a chemist. The yield is actually pretty important to me.
+
+[18:37] Right, okay. Um and uh I was also I was also curious, so since I'm gonna be making savory juices sometimes as well, instead of using ascorbic, can I use some type of vinegar or citric acid or something like that instead to make sure the browning doesn't occur? Okay, well, it depends. So so if you're screwed to retard browning, right? So you're you're a chemist, so like, but we'll for everyone we'll s one, you lower the the browning is caused by uh an end enzymes that are present in the juice, right?
+
+[19:05] Uh I believe they're polyphenol oxidases that are that are uh agglomerating um things together into things that turn brown that look brown and then anyway, that make things take oxidized. So and other oxidation reactions are happening. In fact, I think the browning is only the only one of the things that's going on for the oxidation reaction. So, but they're mainly enzymatically caused, which means you can retard a lot of that browning by simply lowering the pH to the point where those enzymes are no longer active, right? That's one mode.
+
+[19:33] Or two, add something that is actively an antioxidant like ascorbic acid, right? So the other acids are only going to act insofar as they're going to lower the pH, whereas they're not as effective as actual antioxidants as you would have in something like ascorbic acid. Now, if you didn't want the ascorbic acid taste, right? But although ascorbic acid is very light on taste, you could move to something like uh a sodium metabisulfite, uh, or something like that as an antioxidant. And a lot of people use that, but the problem is that if you overdose on uh on one of the sulfite things, you start to taste that vaguely sulfurous note, but you won't taste it in smaller quantities.
+
+[20:14] Okay. All right, thank you very much. I really appreciate it. Man, thank you. Let us know how it goes.
+
+[20:19] Alrighty. Uh wait, stuff. Should we go to our first commercial break? We're going to our first commercial break. Cooking issues.
+
+[20:25] We'll be right back. A true mom and pop operation since two thousand six, the Brooklyn Kitchen provides the tools that shape our food culture. They stock a curated variety of pots, pans, knives, small appliances, and other kitchen essentials. Their grocery department works closely with local farms and food artisans to bring you the tastiest fresh produce, dairy, and pantry items. Their teaching kitchens allow them to offer a wide breadth of cooking classes, from knife skills to pick butchering, from cooking for couples to pickling and canning, from home brewing to pie making.
+
+[22:26] Something new is always happening at the Brooklyn Kitchen. Visit them at one hundred frost street in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, or visit the Brooklyn Kitchen.com. You guys put some scary music to that. Yeah, right. I feel like I'm gonna get butchered.
+
+[22:40] That's the point. It's not a scary place. Yeah, I was asking Nastasia before the show if she'd ever been to Brooklyn Kitchen, but then I forgot she's never really been to Brooklyn outside of Roberta's, so Oh, yeah, no, she makes a beeline directly for the subway when she gets out of here, like slapping the hipsters off her like mosquitoes as she's running. Tell the joke, dude. Which one?
+
+[22:58] Your joke, it's your joke. You tell it. Yeah, you'll say it better. No, you see it's Nastasia, you how much does a hipster weigh? How much?
+
+[23:07] An Instagram. Oh. Wow. Thank goodness she's measuring in grains. There we go.
+
+[23:19] All right. Clef's writes in at cooking issues. What starch have you found to be the least cloudy when using as a thickener for hot sauces? Uh, or do you have any non-starch ideas? Okay, well, it's an interesting question.
+
+[23:31] Uh, you want something that's hot soluble, uh, so you know, heat it up and uh to coat the back of a spoon with thick uh coat the coat the back of the spoon, as they say, a napel, as they say in the trade. Uh or maybe a little bit thicker. So uh if you're interested in starch clarity and the theory behind starch clarity, you can look up a 1989 article called Starch Paste Clarity by S.A.S. Craig. It's available on the internet uh and you can look it up.
+
+[23:53] But in general, if you're looking for uh a regular starch, you know, not uh modified, if you want a modified uh uh not even a modified, but a very highly tuned starch. You can go to National Starch Corporation and they have any number of starches that are already that are they made specifically for things like clarity. In fact, they have gel, they have starches, they have the word clarity and purity in their name that are intended to be very highly clear. But if you're looking to get uh kind of a more normal, just like a grocery store situation with starch, uh the way the reason starches um are c when when starch becomes clear typically means that the starch is swelling rapidly and the starch granules break gr uh rapidly and the starch goes completely into solution rapidly, and that makes for maximum clarity, right? So the starches that have that are ones like potato starch or uh tapioca starch, root-based uh uh and tuber-based starches.
+
+[24:44] These starches tend to swell extremely rapidly. The granules rupture rapidly, at which point it becomes very clear. Uh so you know, those those are going to have higher clarity, things like potato starch. Um, also starch that's higher, like other types of starch, like waxy cornstarch, not cornstarch, but waxy cornstarch, which is high in a millipectin, uh, tends to be uh more clear because a millipectin uh tends to be uh more clear and it's easier to paste out and also retrograde less. Now, any starch you have is gonna have the issue that when it cools down, it's gonna thicken significantly.
+
+[25:22] I think less so probably for potato starch, but I haven't I didn't have a chance to uh look it up. If you want to move just to a hydrocolloid for thickening with clarity, then obviously you can add a little bit of xanthan at the end of your cooking procedure, and it will stay uh it will add its thickening capability whether it's hot or it's cold. The problem with xanthan is if you add too much xanthan, uh your product's gonna get snotty. It looks really like snot and very jiggly. So you want to add low percent energies.
+
+[25:48] You never want to add really more than about uh to a sauce more than about a quarter of a percent up to about a third of a percent. If you go over that, uh you're gonna start noticing some xanthan characteristics to it. You can go up to half a percent sometimes, but I wouldn't. You know what I mean? And you know, we hate the xanthany look and things, right?
+
+[26:04] That kind of jiggly, that jiggly look. Uh in a sauce, it's gonna be eaten uh as a lot of sauce. In certain applications, it's okay to have that texture because you're not having a large quantity of it there where you can see the motion on the surface. It's mainly the motion on the surface. I mean, there's some snotty texture to the actual mouthfeel, but mostly it's the way it looks that is so horrible, right?
+
+[26:25] Yeah. Yeah. Um, but you might want to move to something like not a regular locust bean gum, but a uh, you know, a purified locust bean gum. They're hot soluble, they need to be heated up, but they can be very uh good. Clear locust bean gum.
+
+[26:40] And you can buy that from, I'm sure Monarch's Pantry carries it, or if not, you know, it's CP Celco makes some. A bunch of people make clear locust bean gums, but they're uh highly refined, they're good thickeners. Also, purified guar is uh very clear, and so you can get a good purified guar gum. Guar is cold or hot, so you can add it and then uh you know use it as you go, uh, and maybe those will be useful for you. We gotta make sure that you don't get just regular cruddy guar because regular cordi guar tastes bad and regular coretti guar also is not clear because it hasn't been purified to have only the hydrocaloid, the active uh polysaccharides in it.
+
+[27:18] Uh I believe what are they? Glucomanids, whatever. I can't remember. But anyway, so you uh get a hold of those. Of course, we all know the price of guar has gone up due to fracking.
+
+[27:26] Thanks, fracking. Thanks a lot. Thanks, you know. You know, I I've I I heard there's an environmental problem with it too. I haven't heard I haven't heard that.
+
+[27:36] Anyway. Then again, I only listen to cooking issues. Yeah, exactly. There you go. Uh so anyway, so uh take a look at that.
+
+[27:41] Hopefully uh that will uh work out for you. Yeah? Mm-hmm. Okay. Uh we have a question in from Zoe at 69 Colebrook Row, our friend Tony Caneliara's place, and the drink factory, and they they hope we're doing well, are we?
+
+[27:54] Yeah. Yeah? Good. Uh we're looking to do some work with calcium oxide, and I'm wondering if you had any advice. Also, this may sound a bit strange, but knowing it beg it can be quite an aggressive chemical, is there a food-safe version of it, or is it a case of just being careful?
+
+[28:07] Uh, as always, any information is greatly appreciated. Um, okay. Calcium oxide, I've not heard so calcium oxide is C-A-O, right? Quick lime. Uh, and the main use of calcium oxide that I know of in food is actually to make self-heating cans.
+
+[28:27] Because you add any time uh calcium oxide is added to water, it's going to have uh a very, very strong reaction where it absorbs the water and turns into calcium hydroxide. Uh and that reaction liberates a boatload of heat. So if you go to the Wikipedia, uh this is what they quoted, so you know I can't verify it because it's Wikipedia. You know, I can you know Nastasha could go in there and enter that, you know, whatever she wants, right? In fact, she's doing it right now.
+
+[28:55] Uh uh I think that's actually what she's doing all the time. When she's doing this, she's actually just loading in like updating Wikipedia like really like random facts. She's like uh, you know, she's like Elliot Gould. Elliot Gould's Wikipedia? You have written on Elliot Gould's Wikipedia page?
+
+[29:11] Awesome. Awesome. I love myself. Elliot Gould. We were talking about him like over Christmas.
+
+[29:17] Oh man, I love my man. I love myself some Elliot Gould. What happened to Elliot Gould? I don't know. I love smell myself smelly Gould.
+
+[29:23] Anyways, uh, so you know, don't trust anything on Elliot Gould's Wikipedia page from now on, because you know Nastashia just put her fingers in there and like all of a sudden, you know, Elliot Gould's gonna be friends with Elton John, all sorts of terrible things are gonna happen. Anyway, uh according to them, one liter of water will combine with uh 3.1 kilograms of uh calcium oxide to uh give uh calcium hydroxide and 3.4 megajoules of energy. To put that into perspective, that is an entire kilowatt hour, or the same amount of energy it takes to run a thousand watt thing for an hour, or in calories, 846,000 calories, and it can deliver it at a fairly high heat. So that's a very high heat interaction. So I don't know of any use for calcium oxide itself in food, but calcium hydroxide uh is extremely uh interesting.
+
+[30:14] So calcium hydroxide, which you can get um as form of pickling lime, uh you can get it in uh Mexican places as uh as uh cal, which is you know what was used for nixtimalization. Uh it's also available membrane just erased, but it's also available on a couple other names. But you know, that stuff's great, and it's uh oh uh Thai red lime paste and Thai lime paste, you can get it. It has uh you know it's calcium hydroxide base. And it that's really interesting.
+
+[30:41] It has a faint cementy taste on its own, it's not very soluble, but it it's also used uh to do things um uh like nystamalization, which uh it changes the taste of things, and anything that requires something that's either as basic or that has calcium is one of the reactions. So we uh we use it a lot. It's also used in uh sugar production uh because they uh for a number of reasons, and this is interesting. This is I did not know. I knew that they have to keep sugar on the relatively basic side when they're processing it to prevent it from inverting, right?
+
+[31:09] Because it if if if sugar is even a little bit acidic, if sucrose, table sugar is even a little bit acidic as it's being processed, it will invert into uh glucose and fructose separately, which is a problem for sugar manufacturers because then it won't crystallize out and they don't sell fructose and glucose, they sell sucrose, they sell table sugar. So everything is kept uh on the neutral or slightly basic side. But when you're doing when they're doing beet sugar, they go through a process, and I learned this this morning of not carbonation, one of my favorite things on the earth, but carbon nutation. And what they do there is they put uh they put calcium hydroxide into the mix with uh into the into the juice and then they shoot uh CO2 carbon dioxide into that and what happens is the carbon dioxide reacts with the uh calcium hydroxide to form calcium carbonate and calcium carbonate isn't soluble so it what it does is it forms particles of calcium carbonate and as it forms those particles it traps other things in it and so it can be used as a clarifying aid so anyone out there I wonder whether there's a way to do an inexpensive uh you know centrifuge free uh clarif quick fairly quick clarification using calcium hydroxide maybe interesting someone check it out someone tells me what's going on anyway uh so uh there you have it right yeah okay uh milk cult wrote in can you guys cover real buttermilk the byproduct of butter production and acidified buttermilk and impacts on hydrocolloids well um okay uh so here's the thing so when I use we whenever you go buy buttermilk in a store you're buying what's called cultured buttermilk and it's not really buttermilk it's just a low-fat milk that they treat with a culture that's I guess you know similar to what would be uh in a culture in real cultured cream right now uh so what you're getting there is the actual milk the casein is there uh you know everything is there in the normal proportions as would be for low-fat milk only it's been cultured with uh bacteria so it's tart it's acidic uh and it's thicker right uh in buttermilk, what you do is you take cream and you make butter with it, and the stuff that's left over is buttermilk. That's what real buttermilk is.
+
+[33:25] And what it's mainly composed of is the whey proteins. The because you know the casein is what's glu the the the milk solids go with the oil when you're making butter, but you you know you have some you have casein, some casein, I guess the casein comes out too. But some of it's trapped as milk solids in the thing. But may all the whey proteins are basically in in there. Uh I guess some casein, some fat, uh, some little bit of fat that's left over, uh, and a lot of like great uh uh emulsifiers and and lactose and water.
+
+[33:56] Um if you use sweet cream to make it, uh, in other words, just like right from as the way you buy it from the grocery store, then uh that cream it will not be tart, it will not be acidic. So most of the recipes that you're using buttermilk for in uh you know pancakes and whatnot, you what you're really using them for is the acidity. You're counting on the acidity from them. And that's why you add baking soda to those recipes, because the baking soda is interacting with the acidity in the buttermilk to leaven your products, like let's say pancakes. Uh you know, they also sent tend to make it more tender crumb, things like biscuits, not that Nastasha would know because she hates biscuits.
+
+[34:30] Uh very similarly, sourdough starter is mainly used in pancakes, not for its leavening capability, and that's why you can use an old nasty sourdough starter for pancakes. You're using a sourdough starter there for its acidity to re- and that's why a lot of those buttermilk pan uh sorry, sourdough pancakes will have soda in them, baking soda in them, because they're actually doing an acid-base reaction and not uh leavening uh in a traditional way, or they're augmenting the traditional leavening with an acid-base reaction. However, when I make buttermilk, I typically take my cream. I will buy buttermilk, and you have to make sure that the buttermilk that you're using is uh has active cultures. And so the one I get from Whole Foods is usually very active.
+
+[35:11] Uh the I've had bad luck sometimes with the one I get at my local supermarket, uh, of the a culture not being active enough. And then you take your cream, and to like your quart of cream, you can add uh, you know, like a half a cup or so of buttermilk, and then you I let it sit out in the kitchen overnight, and then my cream is cultured, and then I get real buttermilk from, and that's the way you would make cultured butter. You let it sit however long you want for the culture to develop for the cream to ripen, and then you make uh your butter with it. That buttermilk is acidic, and that buttermilk, so that buttermilk has the like the best of all the world. It has like the interesting, awesome taste of buttermilk, it has the emulsifying properties uh of you know that are in a uh in traditional old school buttermilk, and it also has uh which I guess mainly come from probably the whey proteins, I'm not sure.
+
+[35:59] And it also has uh the acidity. So, what do you think? Good. Good. Okay.
+
+[36:05] Um I guess it's time for our second commercial break already. Sure. Yeah, second commercial break, cooking issues. Like what you hear so far? Support the network and become a member.
+
+[36:43] Membership helps us bring you the best food radio in the world and gives you access to thousands of dollars in discounts at the sustainably minded businesses that support us. To become a member, visit Heritage Radio Network.org today. And welcome back to Cooking Issues. Anna from Hungary wrote in. Thank you for covering my questions last week and clearing up my dulce de leche recipes and processes.
+
+[37:24] I made Dulce de Leche without the water this past weekend and stirred almost constantly, and it did work. Previously, I thought the water was there to prevent the milk or sugar from burning while they interact, and the water is just slowing the process. I read more on the MyRad reaction. I learned a lot. Anyways, I want to say thank you for giving me a heads up, and now we're ready for flavors and perfecting the recipe.
+
+[37:41] Well, thanks. I'd love to hear feedback that something actually worked, right? Alright. Feels good. Uh okay.
+
+[37:47] Uh in from Nick in Seoul, Korea. Uh, and he's writing to you, Nostash, because he doesn't really care what I say. Sorry we missed you this week. Uh, I'm Nick from Seoul Korea. I called about cold smoking bacon.
+
+[37:57] I just want to follow up my inquiry. Dave says I'm not going to get the desired effect, uh, which by the way is to reduce the emissions and deposit of harmful substances while preserving the good smoky flavor of bacon. Because the good smoky aroma that we love is released uh at the combustion temperatures along with the various possible carcinogens and other nasty stuff. Well, that is unless I make made or major modifications to my setup. What if you go low and slow?
+
+[38:19] Wood's essential oils and aroma compounds uh are uh also released at lower temperatures, say 200 to 300 Celsius, no? Wouldn't keeping it under the combustion temperature of two or three hundred Celsius for longer duration, more or less produce the desired effect. And also, do you have any experience smoking with herbs, grains, flowers, and polls, or any mixture of them? Are there any things I should be made aware of before giving it a whirl? Looking forward to hearing from you.
+
+[38:41] Best regards, Nick. Okay, so we have to separate what's going on here. Wood's essential oils and aromas do go out at lower temperatures. But you've got to remember these are compounds that are already in the wood themselves. So things like the aroma of cedar or the aroma of sandalwood or any of those aromas or pine.
+
+[39:01] Those those things are in the wood uh and relatively easy to volatilize. In fact, they're there, you can smell them, right? So they're clearly they're fairly easy to volatilize. The other things in them, uh, like you know, the phenolic uh things, like uh the one that you always think of as being associated with smoky flavor is guyacal. Uh and uh that is not in the wood to begin with.
+
+[39:27] It needs to be produced, and it's produced uh by the pyrolysis of lignin at high temperatures. Now, is there a way maybe to uh produce it really long in snow? I don't know. I haven't wasn't able to find anything in the literature to to make to figure out like what those flavors uh to produce those flavors at a lower temperature. In addition, remember that the temperature at which the uh smoke is produced, even in that in the higher temperature range, which is where we're talking about, uh the actual flavors that you're produced, the actual reactions that take place are dependent on that temperature.
+
+[40:04] So the flavor of a particular smoke is gonna depend on the temperature at which it's created as well. So it's not like even all high temperatures are created equal, but I don't know of a way that you can get traditional smoke flavors at lower temperature. Now, like I say, getting the volatiles out of it and making those kind of flavors, I think it would be a very uh, you know, be easy to do at those lower temperatures, but not the traditional smoky flavor. If someone tell someone call back and or write me and tell me of a way to do it, uh, but I I don't know of any way. Okay.
+
+[40:29] Uh hello cooking issues team from Matthew. Uh I hope everything is good with you guys in 2013. I decided to add some Xanthan gum and soy lecithin to my vinaigrette recipe to help it stay emulsified. Uh now, Xanthan is of course uh the you know one of the magic hydrocolloids that's uh comes from uh bacteria, and it's awesome because you can use it in very small quantities, so it doesn't mask flavor. It can go into almost any recipe, whether it's acidic or not acidic.
+
+[40:58] It can go, it can be heated, it can be cold, uh, it it is it suspends things like pepper because it has what's called a yield point, so it forms a uh a weak gel unless it's being uh agitated. So it's amazing stuff. Uh problem before we said it used too much of it and things get snotty, but it's really kind of uh amazing, amazing stuff. Uh soy lecithin, of course, is lecithin, which is a phospholipid that's derived from uh soybean uh uh processing. Um lecithin is in a lot of recipes anytime we use egg yolk as an emulsifier, we're also using lecithin, but remember lecithin from an egg yolk is not the same thing as lessithin from soy.
+
+[41:35] Very related though. Anyway, uh that was just a the before we get to the full thing, so you know. Okay. The first recipe I used for a reference was here on HDTP, modernistcooking made easy.com. Uh and they made a uh maple vinaigrette recipe.
+
+[41:51] It called for 0.6 0.6% lecithin and 0.2% xanthan. I made a vinaigrette that was about 840 grams, uh, and then added five grams of lecithin and one point seven grams of xanthan and spun the whole thing in a vita prep. Vitaprep's always a good call, by the way. Love the vitaprep. Uh alas, it broke almost immediately and shortly after, completely separated.
+
+[42:12] After this, I consulted uh Martin Larish's Chymosis Texturous Hydrocolloid Cookbook, and its recipe called for 0.2% lecithin and 0.1 to 0.4% Xanthan. Again, I started with 840 grams of vinaigrette and then added 1.7 grams of lecithin and 0.85 grams of xanthan. Also a complete failure. I'm not really sure where I went wrong. Maybe my inferior mass skills contributed.
+
+[42:38] In both cases, I completely ignored the recipes and used my own vinaigrette recipe and just added the hydrocolloids in the proportion specified. Could this be the issue? I assume that with the additives and the ratios uh the with the additives, the ratios of the other components weren't as important. Any other suggestions or ideas on using lesson, lecithin, xanthan, or other stuff to keep dressings nicely emulsified? Thanks.
+
+[42:58] Okay. We tend to use um uh when I'm thickening salad dressings, I typically use something called uh a ticoloid uh you know 310 or or or 210 or 201 or 301. I think they're all very similar. They're mixtures of gum arabic and xanthan because I have a lot of them around because I use them in in drinks. But so they're they're using a gum arabic slash xanthan system to thicken and stabilize, and those things last forever, forever, and both of them are very good at different uh at different acid levels.
+
+[43:27] So here's a way I there's a couple of things that can be going wrong there. First of all, I looked at the recipes, and both recipes uh state their percentages in a way that is normal for cooks to state them, but not really um accurate. Uh hydrocolloids, the th the the thickening power of a hydrocolloid is based strictly on uh how much it's interacting with the water in a system. So I looked at the maple vinaigrette uh recipe. It was 45 grams of balsamic vinegar, 15 grams of lemon juice, and 20 grams of maple syrup, and 90 grams of olive oil.
+
+[43:59] So when they were doing the recipe calculations for that, they added all of those numbers up to get the percentages. However, uh the xanthan gum isn't interacting with the 90 grams of oil, so it shouldn't factor into your percentages, right? It's just not it shouldn't. Uh also the uh balsamic vinegar is mostly water, so that's okay. The lemon juice is mostly water, so that's okay.
+
+[44:21] And the 20 grams of maple syrup, though, is only one-third water, so that's like seven grams. So if you look at it, uh this recipe uh they says that one gram of lecithin is 0.6%. It's actually using 1.4% of lecithin on a water basis. Now, lecithin you can't really count as a water basis alone because uh it's interacting with the oil because it's an emulsifier. So, like there, the the water, the total uh amount and the water oil part is is important.
+
+[44:48] I don't really know how to work it out from an accurate standpoint, but anyway. But back on the xanthan gum, uh he says he's using 0.2% xanthan gum, but on a water base, he's really using 0.45% xanthan gum. Okay. So one one problem is is that when you're looking at it, you should look at the amount of water in your recipe for your xanthan, and in fact, he's adding 0.45. I went and analyzed uh Martin Larsch's recipe, and he's using um I have it here somewhere.
+
+[45:17] Um yeah, he's using uh actually m much more Xanthan uh than he would because he's not counting the oil on the xanthan either. So uh you could up your xanthan or make sure your percentages are in line with uh what they want for the liquid. Another problem you might be having is maybe your lecithin's no good, and your lecithin is are you using powdered lecithin or are you using the one that's in granules? The granules might not be dissolving properly. The good way to figure out whether it's the lecithin that's the problem is you can figure on a general basis that egg yolks are roughly 10% lecithin.
+
+[45:49] So if your recipe works just by adding 10 times uh the amount of egg yolk as you added uh lecithin, right? So in your case, let's say you were using the one gram of lecithin. If you were adding 10 grams of egg yolks, it should have roughly that same amount of lecithin, but it's not going to be a problem hydrating. So that one, if you added the egg yolk and it worked, then bang, it's probably your lecithin's not going in there properly. Could be you weren't hydrating the xanthan properly.
+
+[46:16] Remember, you're doing in a very acidic environment here uh if you're using some of these recipes. So just take a look at it. Um another uh so I would look at your hydration, even though you're using a vital prep and make sure everything's getting hydrated. Um I don't know about lecithin's um performance in extremely acidic environments. I don't know how acidic your environment is, but look at the actual water content of what's going on.
+
+[46:36] Test it with egg yolk to see whether that's the problem. Uh up the xanthan slightly uh because uh the other way the percentages are being calculated is uh is a little bit uh wonky, or switch to something like Ticaloid 310, which I know works in these situations because I've done it all the time. No, one more thing is that you might want to whisk the lecithin into the into the oil if you can. And if you have a water uh that's in there that isn't very acidic, if you're using something that's not very acidic, I would put the hydrocolloids as much into a non-acidic thing as possible before you start, they'll hydrate faster and easier. Uh yeah?
+
+[47:09] What do you think? Good. Good? All right. Uh okay, let me see, find another good question.
+
+[47:16] Uh oh, we had a question in from Ben. Uh actually, we probably only have time for like one or two more questions anyway, right? Yeah. So uh we have a question in from Ben uh from San Francisco. He says, Hello, Dave, Hammer, and Jack.
+
+[47:32] And I'm gonna put Joe in there. Yeah, really. Come on. I know he's shout out to Joe when you submit questions. No, seriously.
+
+[47:39] Seriously, people. Where's the love? I know it. I know it. You know what?
+
+[47:43] Although I'm sure you get the love as the front man in the band, right? So like all I want on Valentine's Day is to be recognized. Next week is our Valentine's show. Right, but you know 12th. That's not two weeks from now.
+
+[47:56] Yeah, but uh the the Valentine's Day is on the 14th, right? Yeah. Yeah. So before. Yeah, but like but Ben wants like advice now.
+
+[48:03] He's got a plan in advance. He's not gonna make it. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Right. I know.
+
+[48:08] Just let you know. So yeah, next week we'll, you know, we'll have the Valentine's Day, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah. I thought you never answered this last week. No, I didn't get to it because we had callers. You would know if you whatever.
+
+[48:19] Whatever. I'm not even gonna get into it. I'm not even gonna get into it. Don't make me. Oh, and everyone else who's heard is is here?
+
+[48:28] Oh, yeah, okay. So Ben writes in from San Francisco. Uh big fan of the show and the blog, so much so that I finished the entire cooking issues backlog while I'm winter vacation with my girlfriend on Jolly. And I remember uh she wrote in and said that, and we apologize to her on air for that, for her having to listen to it. Uh perhaps you recall her email.
+
+[48:46] Uh I do feel guilty about making her listen to it, but it was worth it. Uh to make up for being such a horrible guy, I want to cook her uh a unique and outstanding Valentine's dinner. Alright, I like this kind of question, right? Uh we can go off on this one. I have a great pressure cooker, the Fistler brand, which I haven't used that one actually yet.
+
+[49:02] Well, it wasn't, I I don't have it. Uh, but I hear it's okay. I hear it's good. Uh, an emer uh you like it a lot, so maybe it's great. I have no idea.
+
+[49:08] I haven't used it. Uh an immersion circulator, which is a uh he has a crazy old poly science uh 7312. We have that. That's the one that's on our circulator chiller that we used uh in the that we use with the roto vap or we're using with the rotor vap. A Vitamix, good call.
+
+[49:22] Strong call on the Vitamix. I love it when someone has a Vitamix at home because that just makes everything easier. Uh and most regular equipment. Uh, what would you make for your wife on Valentine's Day if you really owed her this time? Wow, it's mostly something else other than just the cooking issues.
+
+[49:34] I mean, I hope I'm not that much punishment. I am kind of a little bit. Talk to my talk to my family. Uh, if you really owed her this time something epic or unusual that a reasonably sophisticated amateur cook could make. Uh, thanks for everything.
+
+[49:47] Your future Kickstarter supporter, uh, Ben. Okay. Uh, this is an excellent question, but okay, so I have a I have some good perspective. I've been doing uh Valentine's uh day uh, you know, meals for my wife for a long time. Uh and I don't tend to go out on Valentine's Day.
+
+[50:05] Uh I always, always, especially before I was doing this uh professionally, uh, I was um I was cooking her meals, right? Uh here's the here's the issue, and here's what you have to look out for. When you're cooking a meal uh at home, there for Valentine's Day, you're cooking it for just the two of you, I hope. Right? And so uh the main problem is to organize your meal such that you actually get to sit down with her during the meal because it's it's gonna be irritating for her if you're not sitting down uh at the meal with her, right?
+
+[50:41] So that that used to be one of my main problems is I would have all this prep work done, but then there'd be a long lag in between the dishes as they as they rolled out. And also, you know, I would be standing up doing a lot of prep. So the dinners would go very long. This is why I would suggest to you that you get uh that you do a lot of the stuff in the circulator and do as much post finishing as possible. Uh you know, I would like you to write and tell me kind of like what she likes to eat, and then I could give you some more recommendations for for right beforehand.
+
+[51:14] But also, I used to like to do like probably like four or five courses on the Valentine's Day, get your desserts done beforehand, right? Uh and you know, this it's unfortunately it's cold out, so you could do some sort of like hot cold. I used to do a lot of things that lit on fire because mean that's what I do. I light stuff on fire. But try to go, I mean, I used I used to go nuts.
+
+[51:34] I would do I would always do a fish, a poultry, a meat, a dessert, and an appetizer, some four court uh and finish with cheese. Definitely get a couple of bottles of wine and vacuvan. Don't force yourself to drink only one wine throughout the entire thing and start out with champagne, get a clamshell thing to open it. But I would definitely do uh I would I would definitely do most of my work in the circulator if at all possible so that you can sit with her during uh the time that you're eating and light something on fire at the end. Does that make sense?
+
+[52:03] What do you think, S. What do you like to have for the you don't care about Valentine's? I don't care. What do you well what what would what would you like? I really don't care.
+
+[52:11] She's like, make it hardy pasta. Just make it a hearty pasta. Haughty. Haughty pasta. Oh, here's one for you.
+
+[52:18] Try uh so you know, if you like quail, and I like quail, the pr the problem is also when you're doing this, another problem you're doing, if you don't do lots of plated dishes all the time because you're cooking at home, and why would you do that? The the problem is is that you plan a me, and I've done this several times, is you plan a long meal for the Valentine's Day, and then you don't uh you you you make her so full that she can't finish the last couple of things. And in fact, the main issue with all of the small plates uh situations that you have in restaurants is it's extremely difficult to get the portion sizes right when you're doing multiple courses. Because a little bit too little and you're hungry at the end. Now you can just solve that by making some sort of mega filling dessert, right?
+
+[53:02] Or a little bit too much and they can't finish the stuff as it goes through. Then you're gonna get depressed because you've been working all this time and she's gonna feel bad that she's not finishing what you're making. Either that or she's gonna stuff herself, which would then make you know the both of you, you know, feel like you're stuffed. You don't like feeling stuffed at the end of it when you're w on a on a occasion like that, right, Stuzz? No, there's no loving for later, right?
+
+[53:23] I I I was hoping you would say that so I would not have to. Thank you. Appreciate that. Finally, Nastasha comes through for me in a pinch. Bang!
+
+[53:30] Hey, guess what, cooking issues listener? I'm single. So for Valentine's Day, you know, shoot us a line. I'm the only one here without a date. Really?
+
+[53:39] Yeah, man. Come on, really? Jack has no date. No date. Really?
+
+[53:43] Yep. All right, listen. Uh anyone in the New York area. Whoa. Wow.
+
+[53:50] We don't know that. Wow. I would be happy if we had women listeners. I think we do. Wow.
+
+[53:56] Anyway, back to Ben's problem. Ben. Ben. Well, Jack has a problem of a date. I'm working on okay, we have two separate problems here.
+
+[54:04] I have Ben's problem of what he's gonna make on Jolly for Valentine's Day, and hopefully I'm a uh I'm giving him advice without giving him specific advice. Uh and then we have the problem that Jack needs a date. These are two separate uh interviews. Then we have a third problem that there are no female listeners of the show, apparently. You know, by the way, apparently Booker's new catchphrase.
+
+[54:21] He says apparently every other word is apparently out of his mouth now. But uh uh okay, so these all need to be addressed. But right now, uh I'll say some of the things that um I mean, look, get an extremely, extremely, extremely high quality steak, uh, and then uh do a low temperature steak, do 50 like small piece, right? Cut it, pre-cut it so it's nice, uh, do it at 55, uh, do it like up uh at 55, drop it to 50, then do a finish uh poiv style with like a cassis sauce, uh, and then you can finish it with whatever else you want as a steak course. That's a freaking knockout.
+
+[54:56] It's not gonna take you any time at all. Uh make a good uh beef, uh like a beef tasting sauce beforehand because you're not gonna have a pan foam to make the uh to make the cassis uh sauce for the uh poiv thing, but that's like it's a knockout. Also, uh for the poultry side, if you you might not want to go all low temp because then it's gonna be a little bit too much, but you know, a low temp duck breast sliced with like a side salad, uh where you just finish it in the pan after it's cooked, because you could take it almost from cold in a pan to crisp up the skin 57 degrees on the duck breast uh for about 40 minutes, 45 minutes. Uh make sure you smash the duck down so it's nice and flat on the uh the skin before you put it in the in the bag to cook it in the circulator. Also, a knockout and a good poultry thing to lead into the meats, especially if you keep your portions smaller.
+
+[55:44] Uh I would get the world's best cheese. I like to have cheese uh at the end before dessert. I like to have a cheese course. I just do with a glass of port uh and you can do that, or you can do it beforehand if you really need to. But to me, really good cheese makes a meal.
+
+[56:00] Another, like if you want to go weird on the uh on the on the poultry side, get uh the small quails, the small ones. You can buy them deboned already, or you can inside out bone them. And this is one of my favorite things I used to do was I would low temp, I didn't have actually circulators at the time, so I had to do it old school. I would poach eggs uh like a s like a chump sucker. And then you would uh you would shimmy the egg into the boneless quail, which is really kind of weirdly gross.
+
+[56:27] Wait till you do it, you'll see. And then I mean you don't want to deep fry on the Valentine's Day, but like Flash Cook or Deep Fry the quail, so it's crispy on the outside, but then when you cut into it, the egg yolk is still runny and it and it the quail sauces itself. And that's a really interesting, fun thing. Like a quail with a with a runny egg on the inside that holds a shape, and you cut it and it self-sauces itself. Make sure you serve that on some sort of like thin but like well-made kind of brochetta thing so that you can eat it uh all together.
+
+[56:55] I mean, I've done that a couple times on Valentine's Day, uh, but the steak's always a winner. And I'm trying to think of what what else uh what else I would do. But anyway, take those pieces of advice, send me back uh a tweet, a line, tell me what you're looking for exactly on uh what she likes to eat. Uh, and uh we need a day for Jack, right? We need some women listeners and a day for Jack.
+
+[57:15] Hey, women listeners, prove that you're there and call in and give Jack some love. And then next week on the questions, I want to shout out to Joe, cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on heritageradio.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio.
+
+[57:40] You can email us questions at any time at info at heritageradionetwork.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's episode of Cooking Issues has been brought to you by Amber App, a revolutionary iPod point of sale system that can be used at a restaurant, bar, coffee shop, or food truck. Visit their website at Amberapp.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Cooking issues!
+
+[1:02] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Marlon, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live every Tuesday in Bushwick, Brooklyn at Roberta's Pizzeria on the Heritage Radio Network. How you doing? How you guys doing? Good.
+
+[1:13] You're right on time. It's like 12 on the dot. You like that? How about that? Yeah, man.
+
+[1:17] What do you know? What do you know? So listen, big news. Nastasha has joined the social media scene. No, I don't believe it though.
+
+[1:28] Believe it. No way. Yeah. Yeah. So anyone that can hear this, I want you to go out and I want you to follow Nastasha on the Twitter.
+
+[1:38] Yes. Wow. It's hammer bdx. No underscore because that would prevent that's like a barrier between the hammer and you. So there's no underscore.
+
+[1:48] Yeah. Right? Yeah. Do you have has anyone followed you yet? No.
+
+[1:51] Really? Just at hammer? That can't be. And no, at hammer bdx. Oh, BDX.
+
+[1:55] Oh, P DX. Okay. Capital B D X. I don't know if that matters in the. So BDX is what uh we shorthand call Booker and DAX the bar.
+
+[2:07] Right. So that's so BDX is like Booker and DAX. And the the equipment, the equipment company on 54 Eldridge, we call BDX EQ. So anyway, so that's it. That's it, folks.
+
+[2:18] So please follow me. I'll answer you, but I won't provoke. Not only are you on social media, you're asking people to interact with you. Well, if she's gonna do it, she's gonna do it. If you met it all the way, yeah.
+
+[2:28] Have you met her? Yeah. Have you met Nastasha? It's like once she's gonna do it, she's like, she's like, no, no, no, I don't want to do it. No, people who do it, no, that's bad.
+
+[2:35] Well, she's gonna do it, she's gonna do it. But listen, like, I want her to be like the vicious one. Like, I answer nicely, but if you Twitter her, it's gonna be the vicious. So if you friend me or whatever you call it, I'll be vicious. Right.
+
+[2:47] Yeah. Right. So expect it. Except for the fact that I think also you will be able to tweet in radio questions to Nastasha. What's one of the reasons she decided to do it?
+
+[2:56] Was you were getting all them and then yeah. Blah blah blah blah blah. In some other non-cooking, oh, by the way, calling your questions live, too. 7184972128, that's 7184972128. But uh in some non cooking related news, uh well Nastasha was non cooking related news, but uh you will not know this unless you know us personally, but we are kind of cognizes of uh of uh tabloid headlines, and you know, we flatter ourselves that we could someday be good tabloid headline writers, but I saw uh in the subway today.
+
+[3:27] Oh my god, the best it's the best. It's like it's right up there with it's one of the great headlines. You've never told that one. Just sit telling. Which one?
+
+[3:34] The one. That's real. Which one? The one that you love the best. Oh, my my favorite all-time tabloid headline, and like, you know, there should be awards for this because it's like such a genius art, was uh when Lorre right after 9-11 when we first palmed uh Afghanistan, and the headline was Kabulzai, Kabulzai.
+
+[3:51] And you know that there's just some dude or dudette or whatever sitting in a hole somewhere that they throw raw meat at, and they're like, We just bombed Afghanistan cabozai! And they're like, oh my god. You know what I mean? But so like, you know, like at three in the morning or whatever, someone wakes the headline writer and they're like, listen, listen, the Pope's advocating. The Pope's advocating.
+
+[4:10] Says he's too tired to, you know, mentally tired. Too pooped to pope. Boom! I was like, oh my god. You know what?
+
+[4:18] It's like I almost just like quit my job right then and was like, you know what? I need to study at the feet of this person who can come up with a headline that's so genius. Daily news or or post? I don't even know. It's one of those, it was probably in one of the real papers.
+
+[4:35] But it was it was in one of the ones that they hand you at the subway, so I don't know who who does that. Oh, like the Metro, yeah. I was like, you know what? It's like it's like hilarious and like not offensive, but you know that the person meant it is a f oh genius. You love that too pooped to pope.
+
+[4:51] Genius. I've got bad news though. Nastasia, your Twitter account doesn't work. What the what hammer BDS look at it right now? Hammer BDX?
+
+[4:59] Yes, I'm looking at it right now. Why can't we get it? Elliot just wrote in too. He said he can't can't get you. Exactly.
+
+[5:04] Do you have to activate it? You know what? We're gonna get uh figure it out. Jack and Joe, Jack and Joe know how to do the social media thing. I'm gonna pass you my computer, Jack.
+
+[5:15] And so we'll get you know, so another banner thing. Nastasha won't be typing if stopping for shoes during the show. This is like this isn't people, this is an incredible show. Anyway. Okay.
+
+[5:25] Deer cooking issues, peeps. What are your thoughts on glassware shape affecting the taste experience? If a diner sips the same wine or spirit out of two very differently shaped glasses, does it taste difference? If so, is there any science to why? Keep bringing the awesome from uh John Riper.
+
+[5:46] And it's uh because you know it's spelled R-I-P-E-R, so there's a question, and as everyone knows, I'm horrible at pronouncing names. So uh he hopefully added in parentheses, uh pronounced like the adjective a riper apple beats an unripe one. And you are so right, John, about the ripe brow. Before I answer your question, let me Nastash is putting her uh her dumb her dumbass face on, which is the face that you see when she's talking uh sitting next to me. Anyway, uh a which is a little different from the vegan face because it's like some liking in it, just you know, ah my uh anyway.
+
+[6:16] So here's the problem uh with with apples that are aren't aren't ripe. Uh so have I said it, I've said this before probably on the show a million times, but in just in case uh I want everyone to go to their local farmers' markets. Too late now, don't worry about it. But like next season when it comes around uh for apples, uh I'm a huge uh encourager of new of uh using old apple varieties, getting farmers to bring old apple varieties into the market. The problem with a lot of old apple varieties is they lose their crunchiness very quickly.
+
+[6:45] They're in fact not intended to be crunchy. And one of the things I hate most about Americans and the way we eat apples is that we refuse to uh eat apples that aren't in like just like hard like rocks. We think that there's only mealy and bad or hyper crunchy, and so we tend to go after apples like Granny Smith, even though it's an Australian apple, that are extremely uh crunchy. Mistake, because not all apples are supposed to be crunchy. But the problem is a lot of the older varieties, especially the dessert or the early season varieties, uh, are uh crumbly, which is the way you want a good apple of that type to be.
+
+[7:18] And in order to have it be crunchy instead of crumbly, because consumers we're too stupid to try and bend our heads around what that apple wants to be instead of what we think every apple should be, that uh the growers pick them when they're incredibly underripe. And when you pick an incredibly underripe apple, it is just monotonically acidic. And there are some people out there who will like that uh thing because what they really want to do is suck on a warhead. But if you want the flavor of an apple, you want to let it ripen, even though those ripe apples aren't gonna last very long, uh, the old ones that were especially the early ripeners. Anyway, so yes, a riper apple is better, John.
+
+[7:55] Now to your question. Um that's an aside. Yeah. Anyway. Oh, my Twitter account works.
+
+[8:01] Ooh, Twitter bugging! Okay, I'm gonna I'm gonna follow you at the end of the show. Um, so to your question, so so the Riedel, uh, and it's it's it's Riedel, actually, it's not Redel. I refuse to call it, but it's it's Riedel. I spoke to Maximilian Riedel once, it's Rietel Glassware.
+
+[8:16] Um really? Yeah, Riedel. Uh so uh even though everyone says Redel, right? Everyone. Well, if you took some joymin, you'd know it's Redal.
+
+[8:24] Anyway, so the uh uh, you know, they've made an incredible business off of the shape of the glass being incredibly important to the way uh you experience particular drinks. Um I in fact went to a uh seminar, I can't remember who's who there's the the older Riedel and the younger one. I've met both of them, uh, but the older one gives and one of them's Maximilian, I forget what the other one is, but I was with the younger one, and he we we were in a uh we were shooting something for a friend of mine who's doing a pilot. This is like 15 years ago or something, and uh he takes two of his expensive ones and he goes, ting and he knocks them together. You know what he said?
+
+[9:01] This is the sound of money. That's what he said. He literally said that to me. This is the sound of money. And and the younger one's kind of an Australian playboy skills uh skis around in the Alps and stuff.
+
+[9:12] You'd like him. She loves the Alps. Anyway, so the uh so one thing she likes, she hates biscuits but loves the Alps. Who figured you know, go figure? Anyway, so um so you know, Riedel uh goes around, gives his seminars and makes a huge uh you know thing about how the glass uh shape uh is extremely important and does these incredibly compelling seminars where you'll be uh you'll be there and there'll be uh nine glasses, so like uh no more.
+
+[9:39] Three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three. That's what is that? Uh 27? Yeah, anyway, and so you'll you'll so you'll sit there and he'll do a grid. So he'll have uh the same spirit uh going across, right, with three different glasses, and then uh the same glass going down.
+
+[9:59] So you'll taste three different spirits in their correct glasses and in two wrong glasses in a grid. Not being very clear, but it makes sense if you think about it a little bit. And then he'll describe how only the particular glass shows off that particular uh spirit uh properly. And it is quite a compelling uh presentation. Uh however, I will say this.
+
+[10:18] Uh uh he himself is a great salesperson, and he guides you through the the tasting. So it's not uh triangle testing where you're testing to see which one. I mean, you can tell the difference, there's no doubt. At least it's when you know, I've never done it in an unguided way, but when he did it in the guided way, you definitely tell the difference. There is some um uh BSRy we'll say, some kind of bull BS around it, where you know, the the Riedles are still talking about the um the tongue, and they should show a picture of the tongue and they bring out the widely discredited incorrect view that you taste only uh certain things in certain areas.
+
+[10:56] You know, the old when you're growing up, they show you that map of the tongue, and in fact they still show that freaking map. The kids brought it home. And did you know for those of you out there that you're not allowed to t tell your kids that your parents are wrong? Your wife starts punching you under the table if you start just saying that your teachers are crazy and wrong and what they're teaching you in school is incorrect. Because apparently you're not supposed to do that.
+
+[11:15] I think that's fine. Well, it has to be if what they're teaching is incorrect, you know, uh like the nutrition that they teach kids is insane. It's insane. And I get in so much trouble because I'm like, well, your teacher is not a bad person, but they're just in wrong. You know what I mean?
+
+[11:27] But uh, whatever. And then uh whatever going back. So that the tongue thing is uh incorrect. In other words, the old map of where you taste salty and sweet and all that's uh incorrect. And Riedel used, although you do have different densities of receptors uh you know over your tongue, and your tongue does differ.
+
+[11:43] It is, it does have a map, but it's not the way it worked, uh, you know, like we were taught when we were kids. So Riedel uh makes a big thing about the shape of the glass directing, especially the shape of the lip directing certain things towards certain parts of your tongue. And I think that in in general is horse hockey. Now it is true that things taste different uh to you depending on where they're delivered in your mouth, and the shape of the glass does make a difference. I think the majority of the difference in the glassware is the bowl, the actual uh size of the bowl uh versus how much is poured in it.
+
+[12:15] That makes a huge difference because that determines the airspace to uh liquid volume ratio, which is extremely important. Uh also the shape of the bowl and how it holds and or concentrates and or dissipates the uh um aroma molecules, I think is vitally important to the way that we uh enjoy wine uh or any any liquid. So I think it's you know, for instance, I'll give you a for instance. So in um when we do the red hot poker drinks at the bar, um we we hit them with the red hot poker, and if you stick any of those red hot poker drinks into a normal glass and put your nose anywhere near it, the alcohol vapor is so concentrated that it's literally unpleasant. You can't bring it to your nose uh to drink because uh you just can't.
+
+[13:01] You know what I mean? It's just the alcohol vapor just blows your head off. So we always put those into coffee cups and you know, not tall wall mugs, but wide coffee cups because it dissipates more of that alcohol vapor uh as you bring it to your nose. Uh similarly, a very small glass that you can't even stick your nose into is going to de-emphasize aromas and things that have strong aromas. For instance, you know, those little tiny tasting glasses, versus the ones that are like have those giant bowls, and then like the your nose just fits into the rim of it, and then you're you know, you're sticking your hot box in your nose with the wine.
+
+[13:34] So you're you know, it's it's uh I mean that it can make a huge difference. Um and obviously there is science behind it, but I don't, you know, I wouldn't go so far as to say that that there is one particular glass shape for each particular wine, is true, although I have to say, uh, from personal experience, uh the guy's spiel is compelling when done in person. Yeah? Uh-huh. Yeah.
+
+[13:55] She's like, yeah, whatever, Google, whatever. Don't care. Okay. Um you gotta announce have people call in for Jack. Oh, yeah, this is the Valentine's Day.
+
+[14:03] Hey, by the way, cleared up the Twitter issue. You're not at Hammer BDX. That's your display name. You are still at Booker Index bar. No, no, no, don't worry, I changed that.
+
+[14:12] Nope. She messed it up. Look again. Just now? Yeah.
+
+[14:16] Wait, like right now? Oh my goodness. I'm learning. Wow. Well, let's not learn on other people's time, shall we?
+
+[14:23] Okay. We're not talking about Jack. Oh yeah. So Jack uh still dateless for the Valentine's Day. Very disappointed.
+
+[14:29] Maybe Nastasha's right. Do we have any? I mean, look, Jack, I looked the picture I tweeted out of Jack, not necessarily. He's he's the one that's not the stuffed uh boarhead. Yeah.
+
+[14:38] In that picture I tweeted out. But he's looking for the Valentine. And this is the Valentine's Day. Fingers crossed, caller, you're on the air. Hold on screen.
+
+[14:49] They hung up when they knew patch it to be hold on. All right. Thank you. Hey, how you doing? Hello?
+
+[14:56] Hi. Hi, this is uh Judah from Maryland. How are you doing? I love your show. Oh thanks.
+
+[15:00] Um I have uh I have a question regarding uh gelatin and bloom strength. Okay. Uh so I I keep codes for myself, and um like so many other things, there aren't very many uh kosher products on the market uh in certain areas, and gelatin is one of them. There is one company that produces uh powder gelatin, which they say is similar to Knox brand. Right.
+
+[15:22] But uh it doesn't have anything re uh you know indicating the bloom strength on the package. And I've tried to get in touch with them, and I've tried to call, email, whatever, no response. I was wondering if there was any way to you know, uh short of getting some fancy uh lab equipment to determine that myself. Um whether or not it's I know you mentioned uh in one of the past issues, like an over-under test, the numbers game, I think it was with the beep powder. Um if I did that comparing that to the Knox gelatin, what what characteristics should I look for?
+
+[15:56] Yeah, well the bloom, you know, the bloom strength is um uh you know it's not like blue I you're stretching my memory a little bit. It's been a while since I looked at the technical thing, but it's basically how uh I believe the bloom test is a penetration test based on a certain percentage of gelatin after the gelatin has been aged for a certain length of time on a certain test block, I think. Um I I believe that's what it is, but I have to go back and look it up. Or Nastasha, you can look up the definition of bloom strength while we're talking. Ooh, computer useful.
+
+[16:26] So um what I would do though from uh from your standpoint of what actually makes it useful is uh I would by the way, Nox gelatin is extremely high bloom strength compared to a lot of uh Nox is a pretty strong gelatin. It's like 220 or something, right? Yeah, it's pretty high. It's like in the gold, it's in the gold or platinum range if you are dealing with leaf. You know what I mean?
+
+[16:46] It's okay. Um so and this is another thing, by the way, that I encourage everyone to pay attention. So like when I write a recipe, I write a recipe for Knox because I'm I'm you know, I'm depending on that bloom strength. Uh and my guess is that the bloom strength is pretty much uh you know directly related to the um chain length of the uh gelatin uh things. I'll I'll read you what the Wikipedia says.
+
+[17:09] Uh bloom test is a measure of the strength of a gelatin, uh originally developed by a guy named Bloom, that I knew. The weight in grams needed by a probe to deflect a cer uh the surface of the gel four millimeters without breaking it. So it's also a uh a measure of its uh uh yeah of its you know inability uh ability to take resilience. Correct. Good, thank you.
+
+[17:28] Um so what I would simply do is, you know, these things are fairly easy to tell by uh what was the concentration it said to test it at? Uh at a kid. Oh. Yeah. Uh for the product.
+
+[17:40] No, it's six point six. When they're doing bloom tests, they do it at six point six, which is very high. Um six point six percent. So what I would do is I would just make uh I would just make the two j uh gel side by side and then just test them. You'll be able to tell with your finger.
+
+[17:52] You don't need a you know, a four or six millimeter probe or whatever it is. If you just take the two um and make them side by side, you'll be able to see uh exactly what's happening. I have my doubts that the kosher gelatin's gonna be anywhere near as strong as the Nox. Um because I mean i do they say what it's made out of? They don't uh from bovine skins.
+
+[18:12] Okay, so it is a well, okay, so good. It's not one of the kosher fish gelatins. No, it's not a fish gelatine. Yeah, the fish gelatins are horrible. Everyone knows they're horrible.
+
+[18:19] They're not as strong. They have a low melting point. They're just they're bad. I mean they're not bad, but you know, they're not bad. They're not bad.
+
+[18:24] That's sort of not what I say it. But like they're not a good replacement for Nox. Um but yeah, so if it's made by cow, you actually it has a good shot if they d you know, depending on how it's it's all depends on how they extract it and at what point in the extraction you get your stuff. Like I think the first stuff that comes off is the higher chain li uh or is it yeah. I think anyway, so like the the the stuff that's you know easier, I think to extract is the higher chain like it's been a long time since I've looked it up.
+
+[18:46] So it's in too possible. Just make the two side by side and push on 'em and you'll see what's going on. I mean, if you're gonna use it for a more technical recipe, like if you're gonna use it for gelatin clarification, for instance, then um, you know, I would uh then it's gonna be a little more important exactly what it is, but i i if it feels fairly similar to the Nox in reasonable concentrations, then I think it's probably gonna act pretty much like the Nox, especially if it's a cow based gelatin, uh and not a you know, not some sort of a fish based gelatin. Right. And let's say let's say I do the test and it is pretty far off from my uh perception of it.
+
+[19:20] Um there would be really no other good way of determining what it's comparable to. No, I mean y you know, you're short of getting short of getting um, you know, a bunch of different uh gelatins together that you like the the leaf strength, right? Right. And then you can figure out excuse me. Sorry, you can figure out where it is in relation to the other standard leaf strengths, you know, the silver or the gold or the you know the um but you know if the the the person you literally spoke to a person and they said that it was comparable to Nox and Bloom strength.
+
+[19:49] No, it says it on the package actually, but I can't I can't get through to a human being. Yeah, you know, you I would be careful there was a big thing with uh, you know, vegetarian uh marshmallows back in the day. Someone was using a supposed vegetarian gelatin that was also kosher, and the uh the people who were making it were just liars. They were just liars. Yeah, yeah, they just lied on the package, straight up lied.
+
+[20:13] And and then uh and you uh you can actually it's an interesting Google uh search to dig down into is to is the case of these uh all these people who were really excited that they could all of a sudden make these really spot on vegetarian marshmallows using this supposed kosher vegetarian gelatin replacer when in fact they were just using jello. Um but I'm not saying these people are liars. I don't even know who you're talking about. I'm not calling them liars. Yeah, yeah, but uh yeah, yeah.
+
+[20:39] Nastash is looking at me like you're calling these people liars. I'm like, I'm not, I'm not. Uh but uh I would uh you know it has look, if if it's if it's from cows, it has a good shot of being a high quality uh there I mean high bloom strength uh gelatin. So I would just make them and hope that they are the same. And if not, you can always um you know, make like you were saying over under, uh, you know, make a make a like a two percent uh uh two percent um knocks, right?
+
+[21:03] And then make like a two percent, a three percent, and a uh a four percent of uh the unknown one and then see where it falls, right? And then if it's in between, and just from a you'll you can tell just by you know seeing how far it bends for breaks, pushing through it, seeing how much force it takes to push through, and then you could probably hone it down to within a couple of tenths of a percent of how to adjust the recipes. Okay. Make sense? Yeah, and then what I would do as a final thing is I would take it down after you think you know what the answer is in a firmer gel, I would take it down until just the point where it doesn't gel, like a very, very light aspic, because that's gonna be where the numbers are more critical, and if you can if you can make it mimic that on a light, light uh gel aspect kind of situation, you'll be able to do it pretty much at all the ranges.
+
+[21:52] Okay. Alrighty? All right, great. Thank you so much. Thanks.
+
+[21:55] Good luck with it. Okay. So wait, did I answer I answered the what I answered the glass question? Yeah? Yeah.
+
+[22:01] Okay. Oh, wrong password. Oh my gosh, we're just breaking up today. Okay. Uh question in from Zach in Pittsburgh.
+
+[22:07] How you ins doing? I like you ins. You don't like you and's? What is you're ins? UN's or yen?
+
+[22:12] It's like you, you ones, you, you, you plurals. Okay. Like use. Like we would say use here. Pay use.
+
+[22:19] Uh although here in like the Jersey, in the Jersey, New York situation, you can just be one person. Uh but that's a that's a complete anomaly. It shouldn't be. What are you doing? You know what I mean?
+
+[22:32] But it's it should be you're meaning like you plural. You know what I mean? Like y'all. Like that's our y'all. Like the people in the south are like, we have y'all.
+
+[22:38] What do you have? You, hey. You guys, what the hell? Anyway. Uh I've recently this is Zach talking now.
+
+[22:45] I've recently improved the quality of the cheese I keep around the house, which has been a very pleasurable experience. My only problem is as the prices good cheese go for in Pittsburgh, and everywhere, by the way, Zach, although you can get some decent cheese prices in uh in New York for certain things. Uh, you know, I'm always uh um what's the word? Shy or not shy, I beware of uh cheap, uh inexpensive cheese, because usually it means that it was stored uh crappily, and then the people who are gonna sell it for a lot of money didn't want to buy it, and the bargain basement people decide that they could push a higher end cheese that isn't necessarily in peak condition, so they get it at a bargain basement rate and sell it out. And you know, I'd rather not even I'd rather not even buy that cheese unless it's delicious, but you know, usually a lot of that stuff's really busted up, it's not that you know what I'm talking about, Sus?
+
+[23:33] Oh, yeah, I know. Yeah. So in other words, beware cheap, beware, you know, inexpensive is one thing, but beware like you know, cut rate cheese emporiums. I had a friend who brought uh cheese recently to a dinner party that had a big red sales sticker on it. You know who that friend is.
+
+[23:48] Yes, yes. Nastasha, Nastasha's uh has the neg the negative uh house guest Olympics, like so nor like the house guest Olympics are where you keep a track of your house guests as they come and you see you like, oh, they bought a nice bottle of wine, they're good. Let's have these people back, or you know, oh they brought a cake, oh nice, you know. They brought you know, bupkis. Special Olympics of the case.
+
+[24:08] Yeah, she has the reverse Olympics, like to see who can bring the crappiest thing to her house. If you're invited to Nastasha's house and you really want to make an impression, bring the crappiest thing you can find. You'll be invited back all the time. Yeah, Boons, Boone's Farms, you know. I'd bring Pillsbury biscuits.
+
+[24:26] Hey, you know what? You you you would like, you know, that's like the nicest thing anyone's ever brought her in her house. I don't like biscuits. Oh, because you hate biscuits. Boom!
+
+[24:36] Got her. Uh see, you know what? I wasn't even thinking because uh even though I know that she doesn't in my head knows she doesn't like biscuits, my heart can't believe that I work with someone who doesn't like biscuits. It's like, you know, whatever. Uh okay, so uh wait, where was I?
+
+[24:50] You want to take a quick break? Sure. Wait, wait, answer the question or no? Well, did I even say the question yet? I didn't say the question.
+
+[24:55] All right, we'll take a break, we'll come back. Cooking issues. I'll see you in my dreams. You are listening to Plexophonic. I'll see you in my dreams on cooking issues on Heritage Radio Network.org.
+
+[25:14] Still, I feel the thrill of your charms. Lips that once were mine. Tender as that shine. They will let my way tonight. I'll see you in my dreams.
+
+[25:50] Did Jack test? Yeah. Alright, Jack has tested Nastasha's new email and it works. I mean, new uh Twitter. Twitter it works, yeah.
+
+[25:57] Where we last oh, by the way, were we gonna get still gonna get our fish as fish later? Oh yeah. Okay, okay. Always gotta get it. So where we last left off, Zach was buying cheese in um where was he in Pittsburgh?
+
+[26:08] Yeah. Zach was buying cheese in Pittsburgh and he was having some problems because the uh cheese is expensive. So let's get back to his question because I wasn't able to finish it because as usual, I spun off into some crazy BS. Okay. Uh Zach's only problem is at the prices good cheese go for in Pittsburgh, I want to use every gram of the good stuff.
+
+[26:25] Is using the rinds to make stock viable. I've seen it described online, but have my doubts as to how well it would work. The cheese uh seems uh to be so non-porous that I'm not going to get much out of it. I do most of my stock making the old fashioned way. I know you like using the pressure cooker method.
+
+[26:41] Would there be much difference in results using a pressure cooker for cheese stock versus the traditional stock pot? Thanks for the great show, Zach in Pittsburgh. Um yeah, it works. It works great. I mean, uh, you know, uh Wiley for a long time has been making uh Parmesan rind uh parmigiano.
+
+[26:56] You're like Parmesan, what are you an idiot? That's what the stash is saying. Look, she's giving me the idiot look. Yeah, yeah, yeah, of course. So uh no, but like the rinds of hard cheeses make uh fantastic um stocks, assuming that, you know, obviously if you put something that's been like waxed, then I wouldn't do it because um well you could skim the wax off the top, I guess.
+
+[27:15] Or, you know, I wouldn't do it with something that's extremely uh you know it works well with um rubbed hard rind cheeses. And um they it's not that they m melt out, but you remember it it was originally like a porous uh an agglomeration of the uh solids, the milk solids, and stuff comes out, you leak fat out, you leak flavor out, so you do get a really good uh uh amount of flavor out out of the rinds. Stay away from rinds that are disgusting. So when you eat a parmigiano rind, the rind is hard to get flavor out of when you chew on it because it's so freaking hard and dry and dense. But it is not literally disgusting.
+
+[27:53] You know what I mean? Whereas uh certain rinds are literally gross. Like, you know, I wouldn't I can eat a little bit of it, but the outside of a cloth-bound cheddar isn't a rind that I would sit there and make a stock out of because it's you know musty and mighty uh, you know, and uh I'm fine with mites. In fact, you know, there's a cheese I've really been wanting to try from I think the north of Italy on the on the border in Austria and in Austria that's all mites. They make a qu a quark-like thing, like put it in tubes and stick it in drawers and let uh cheese mites eat it until it's mites all the way through, and you break it, and it's just a big brown mighty mass.
+
+[28:28] They're alive. Well, kind of, some of them are. Mighty mass. Well, there's this famous Italian cheese with the maggots, the maggot cheese. Where the flies lay the eggs and then they make the maggots in it and you break the cheese open and it's all wriggling.
+
+[28:41] And you know, it's not so common anymore. I don't even know if it's still legal in Italy, but it was very common back in the day. And uh, you know, and they would break them open, and some cheeses would have them and some wouldn't, but it was considered a good thing, and people would mop up the maggots with the uh with the with the bread. Wow. Yeah, yeah, real deal.
+
+[28:57] Um, so yes, uh, yes, and it works without a uh without a pressure cooker. Although I would highly recommend moving to pressure cooked stocks in general, uh based on flavor and time. If you get a non-venting one, everyone knows my feelings about pressure cookers and that you should use a non-venting um uh pot to do your um to do your although interesting. I was thinking about this before. I wonder whether or not a venting pot like the Fagors that you know I'm not a huge fan of.
+
+[29:23] I wonder whether they're actually better for things like mustard seeds and sulfur things where we're flashing stuff off, or whether they're better for remember uh way back in the day when I pressure were you that was this when we pressure cooked the durian? I wasn't there for that. You were there? So we were pressure cooking durian and um it was uh it was pretty cool. Uh I we made a mistake and I had the durian in the bottom.
+
+[29:42] I usually put a uh the I usually put things like that in a bowl and put water underneath so that I'm pressure cooking it, but I'm not worried about scorching. And I don't know, we put the durian directly into the pressure cooker and it was a venting kind of pressure cooker, and we cooked it for an indeterminate length of time, and I opened it, and what we had was this kind of durian candy like like stuff at the bottom that it caramelized and it had no it was complete even for a 100% westerner with no like like of the durian smell, stuff was great, and I've never been able to mimic it. But you know, my a lot of my post uh tests on durian have been with the Coon Recon, which doesn't vent. I wonder whether durian requires a venting pressure cooker. Interesting problem.
+
+[30:19] I have no idea. Um, so what do you think? You think we answered that one? Yeah. I'm looking at the maggate's.
+
+[30:24] Uh of course she's well, I'm trying to figure she got her hand over her mouth because she doesn't want me to describe her faith. I can't tell you whether or not uh Dan Rabinowitz writes in. First, I love the show, it's one of the few that uh both assumes a working. I'm gonna interrupt Dan Rabinowitz, thanks for becoming a member. Oh, that's it.
+
+[30:45] Sorry, you can't go on. Thank you, Dan. Okay. Uh uh first love the show. It's one of the few that both assumes a working knowledge of cooking and modern methods, but it still dumps it down enough for me, an attorney by day to understand.
+
+[30:55] Uh I find it the perfect compliment to modernist cuisine. Well, thank you. Nice. So double thanks. Uh I've heard your terrific method of infusing alcohols with ISI whippers, and I was wondering if it was necessary to use as a base something high in alcohol content, or couldn't I use wine and make a vermouth using the ISI whipper infusion method?
+
+[31:12] I've been making vermouth using the recipe on www.wine mag.com. Uh and that's a wine enthusiast from April 2008, uh, which requires infusion, uh, which I've done sous-vide in 45 minutes, uh, and then after the infusion, the addition of sherry to fortify and stabilize, right? Could I infuse the herbs and botanicals via ISI and then add sherry and then voila vermouth. Uh I am kosher and there's no good or even drinkable kosher vermouth, so this could be a godsend pun intended. Much appreciated, uh Dan.
+
+[31:41] Okay. First of all, if you're gonna yes, you can do ISI infusion with uh water alone. It does work. It takes a lot longer and the higher the alcohol content the faster the infusions are. Um I would add the sherry before uh but I I looked at the recipe uh very quickly and I could try to look at it again or Nastasha can look it up.
+
+[32:01] Uh I think there's heating involved in that in that recipe right while you look up that go into the email and look up the recipe if there's heating involved in that recipe uh then obviously you're gonna add the higher stuff to fortify it later. If not, you know I don't see any reason why you can't add uh the sherry earlier and boost up the alcohol content. Um that might help. Also one one thing I'm you know I I really want to say about it it'll work. It won't be the same.
+
+[32:24] It could be better, it could be worse, it will be different. So you know every aspect uh and this is the something I come back to uh again and again with new new techniques um in the kitchen is sometimes sometimes techniques completely replace other techniques. Like the only clarification method that I use at the bar now is centrifuge because I don't see any reason to use any other clarification technique. But when it comes to something like um in unless our centrifuge is broken in which case I would use one of the other techniques. But with infusion all the flavors are uh are dependent upon exactly how they're produced.
+
+[33:04] So the temperature at which something's infused, the alcohol level at which something's infused, the concentration of the thing you're infusing, um the length of time, the pressure oh every single one of the in fact, also whether something's infused on its own or with other things is also uh dependent, whether the the size of the particle is extremely important, um, you know, whether you've sucked a uh aside from the actual pressure, the whether you've sucked a vacuum and therefore gotten better contact by removing the air so that you got better contact between what you're infusing and the and the and the product. Um all of these things have uh an impact on the flavor. And it doesn't necessarily make things um better or worse, just different. So, you know, if you're using a vermouth recipe that has you know wormwood in it, let's say, which the recipe did have, then um ISI is going to is going to be faster and for uh the same length of time it will um disfavor the bitter components in wormwood, right? And it'll preferentially pull out uh other elements.
+
+[34:08] So when you know the the way we when I use ISI I like to go back to one of the ones the things that I do a lot in them, things like coffee, things like chocolate, and um the advantage of them in those uh instances is that uh it tends to extract less of the bitter components that you would get out by doing a longer term extraction, which favor uh extracting everything in, including all the bitters, and uh and instead tend to favor the extraction of some of the higher notes and you know some of the uh the things that pull out faster. And so I like you know, I like it for that. ISI is also obviously good for doing things that are fresh and will not infuse well if you need to let them sit around for a long time. So it's not uh better or worse, different, right? What do you think?
+
+[34:55] Was that a heated recipe? The salsify? No, the the the homemade vermouth uh with that one, no, I'm on the other one. Yeah, so go go check it out. But yes, you could do it in ISI whipper.
+
+[35:06] I would just let it sit a lot longer. You can also do oils in the ISI whipper. We've done we've done oils in it. Anyway, so yes, it will work. And I would try it for uh I mean I would try it for much longer than we do with hard liquor.
+
+[35:20] I would try it for tens of minutes, maybe even up to an hour and see see what happens, see what kind of infusion you need. Yeah, it's heated. So uh that's why they add the sherry later. So you wouldn't even need to add the sherry later if you're never going to heat it. You could add the sherry at the beginning, that would also accelerate your uh your infusion.
+
+[35:34] It still will be different. But it could be delicious. I would let it sit longer, like like maybe the length of time you're doing the sous vide one, like 45 minutes. See what happens. If that's too strong, dial it back.
+
+[35:44] Do you know what I mean? But remember, whenever you're doing ISI infusion, um, and you can go back on Cooking Issues blog because it's open again. Uh the uh look up the technique. When you're doing it, remember that it takes a good 10-15 minutes after you've uh unscrewed it and let it flashed off for the flavor to stabilize. Okay?
+
+[35:59] Okay. Um question in from who we can oh actually, no. Yep, we have a question in from Tony Harry, and I know we do. I'm looking for it. Okay.
+
+[36:09] Hope you are all well. I have a couple questions about distillation in a rota vap uh for Dave. Uh, do you still vouch for the use of a peristaltic pump on the condenser side? Is it really worth it? And what is your take on distilling several botanicals together or or versus separately in a rotovap?
+
+[36:24] It's quite hard sometimes to distinguish uh if they create diminishing effects on each other, uh, as described in the following quote from a magazine article, or if it is just harder to identify the specific flavors when you do uh distillation of multiple things together. And this is a quote uh from uh Difford's guide, uh class magazine or a class magazine has quoted on Difford's guide um with someone who's doing his own distillation in in the London. Um and the quote is there is a this is in quote, negative activated carbon effect from distilling botanicals separately. When botanicals are distilled together, as in traditional gin distillation, the presence of just one single absorbing element will affect the entire gin as it will absorb flavors from its neighboring botanicals. Well that that quote is somewhat uh um what's the thing?
+
+[37:10] It's a bit muddled in terms of like understanding it on its own. So what they're I've never heard of, by the way, a negative activated carbon effect before in my life. Uh so I don't know exactly, I mean, I uh what I think is is that the fellow that was making the gins in London, like that's something that he and and like you know his crew talk about a lot, so it probably makes more sense. They're probably referring, I don't know why it's negative activated carbon in a situation where they're probably talking about the effect that activated carbon has of absorbing flavors and somehow relating the effect. What they're really saying is is that uh multiple things distilled together uh they can affect uh the amount of flavor released by the other ones, and so we want to do it uh separately.
+
+[37:48] So then the the question is, and this is from Tony, which do I prefer? To distill each individual ingredient separately and blend it uh and blend them together, which is how this fellow makes his gin, or distill it all together in the flask and do one single run. Uh I think there's advantages to both techniques, flesh flexibility versus speed, just to begin, but it's not always easy to reproduce the result of one method using the other. Keep up the great work, cheers, Tony Harrion. Okay.
+
+[38:11] Uh so my feelings are this uh they are entirely different. Uh there is no doubt in my mind that um flavors taste different when they are distilled together and they can uh affect each other. What I think it I don't think about it uh in the in the way that um you know they're thinking about, by the way, in case people don't know what the hell we're talking about, a rotovap is just a still that runs at uh at a lower temperature because the entire thing's put under a vacuum. And it has a couple of advantages uh over a normal still in that we can get extremely high recapture rate of the flavors that go into it. So it's very good, very, very good at doing uh redistillations of botanicals uh because we can do them at very low temperatures, especially fresh botanicals that you couldn't otherwise do that are very heat sensitive.
+
+[39:01] Uh and so that's that's what we're talking about. Um here's the deal. Uh I always recommend the first time you distill a botanical to distill it by itself in pure vodka. I don't recommend you do it in water, and I don't recommend you do it in uh in super high proof ethanol. I recommend you do it in vodka.
+
+[39:20] And when you at 40 proof, uh uh 40%, 80 proof. And so then when you distill that down, right, that that is gonna and taste it. That is gonna give you an idea of what that sucker does on its own, right? Then you can do some blending, but I would also encourage you to try a mixed recipe because I find that sometimes it is much better to do a mixed recipe. That the that the flavor you get from distilling things together is better than any mix I can make of things on their own.
+
+[39:53] However, there is no easier way to try to reach a target than to make all the botanicals separately and then blend them together to taste. And I think that that is a very good way. And also, by the way, if you're doing bitters uh or even things like vermouth, a good way to figure out what's going on is to do them separately to figure out what's going on and then mix them together and see whether you get a good result. However, uh, then I would also try to do after you've done that, then do a mixed uh version and see whether you like the blended one or whether you think you're gonna like the mixed one better. And so that's what I said.
+
+[40:28] What do you think? Dean. Good. Oh, and on the peristaltic pump, what the hell that means is uh roto vaps the way they work, one of the downsides of a rotovap is that the distillate stays in a vessel uh uh called a receiver and uh over the course of the distillation and and that causes two problems. One, you can't taste it, so you don't know what the hell's going on.
+
+[40:47] You don't know what it tastes like as it's going. And any r regular distiller knows you want to taste uh the stuff to see kind of when you should cut the distillation and then also to taste how the distillation's going during the run. Uh and if you needed to cut the heads which is the beginning part which we don't typically do in a rotovap because we're not doing we're not distilling uh fermentable fermented things we're distilling you know spirits usually um so uh you know it's good to taste right so that's the one thing and so well you know I developed a thing for the rotovap that you plug on and it uses something called a peristaltic pump which is uh you know it's it just it's a it's like a squeegee that squeegies the stuff out peristaltic pumps are great because they don't contaminate your product and they can work on on a vacuum system. So uh install a peristaltic pump that constantly pumps the distillate out of the vacuum system without you losing a vacuum uh and lets you taste exactly what the distillate tastes like at any particular point in the distillation. Here this is the key part the distillation tastes different at every single point in the distillation because the boiling point of the product is different as as it as it distills and therefore what you're distilling off is different.
+
+[41:49] So it's I think it's vitally important to be able to taste the distillate as it's being produced to figure out what's going on. And in fact certain uh distillates are better if you remove certain portions of them and so you can do that only if you have a peristaltic pump attached to gauge accurately what's going on. The other situation, if you have an old rotovap that's at all leaky, uh the the product sitting in that receiver is constantly losing flavor over the course of the distillation because you're you're you're losing, you're getting some air stripping through the through the system because your roto vap is leaky. In a perfectly sealed roto vap, assuming you knew exactly when to do your cuts, you would not need to have the peristaltic pump. But I find that in the real life, when it's a little bit leaky, you get a lot of flavor stripping out of that thing.
+
+[42:34] And so the peristaltic pump is extremely helpful. The problem with the peristaltic pump is that uh your tubing needs to be in top shape, and you can't use the tubing recommended by the manufacturers because it's not strong enough to stand up to the vacuum levels that we're doing in the rotovap. And so uh it you know it degrades very, very quickly, and once the tubing degrades, you actually get vacuum loss through the tube, and then it's just a big it's just a big jumbota. You know what I'm saying? Anyway, so that's that's that.
+
+[42:58] So should we go to our second commercial break? Uh I think you should keep going all the way through. Keep going. Wait, just keep wait, I gotta hear my fish's fish. All right, second commercial break.
+
+[43:23] Heritage Radio Network.org. We'd like to send a special thank you to our latest business member, Amber Point of Sale. At Amber Point of Sale, their mission is to help food service business owners take control of their restaurants, bars, or cafes. Amber is an easy-to-use point of sale system that allows you to take orders tableside, process credit cards, run reports, and manage inventory all through Apple's iPad and without spending tens of thousands of dollars on a system too complicated to use. To learn more, head to Amberapp.com.
+
+[44:26] That's A M B U R A P P dot com. Or give them a call at 888-770-2205 to discuss what Amber can do for you. To learn more about becoming a business member, email us. Info at heritageradio network.org. And welcome back.
+
+[44:43] Uh Dan writes in. Just finished listening to last week's cooking issue show and had a comment. Hope you can pass along. The show dealt with calcium oxide, and they didn't know what it'll be used for in cooking. Uh in uh Andoni uh Adoree's recent cookbook, Moogaritz, he uses calcium oxide for at least three recipes where the calcium oxide is mixed with water and then a vegetable.
+
+[45:00] From what I understand, after soaking, the vegetable skin is left intact, but the uh entire inside is a puree, so you get a solid with almost a liquid inside. And you can see an example uh called false uh fossilized salsify uh uh on the website. Uh but a better one is uh beet that is soaked in calcium oxide and then turns the color, uh turns uh the color and wrinkles like a prune or a pumpkin, and this hard outside but a puree inside. I too is wondering if I could buy any calcium oxide and use it or uh uh or if it has to be food grade. Thanks again, Dan.
+
+[45:26] Okay, listen, once again, uh that has got to be a mistranslation because uh it's calcium hydroxide. You know, the f the fossilized vegetable thing, you know, uh it's something you know we've done uh b before a calcium calcium oxide. Look, I could be 100% wrong here, in which case please write in again. But uh calcium oxide added to water will immediately react with the water and form calcium hydroxide and a large amount of heat. So uh my guess is is that you know we're dealing with, unless you read it in Spanish, that we're dealing either with a mistranslation or I don't know why he is using the oxide, which is literally going to just sit there and convert into calcium hydroxide when it's added to water uh and the and liberate heat.
+
+[46:12] Um that recipe should work with calcium hydroxide, which is cowl or or cow uh, you know, uh or any one of those other things, uh pickling lime or anything. I didn't get a chance to actually look at the at the website to take a look or look at the recipe, but uh all of those uh stiffening things are not the result of the uh base nature of the calcium oxide, but due to the calcium itself, the calcium it first of all lowering the um the calcium um strengthens the pectin, right? So what happens is the calcium goes in there uh and encourages the uh crosslinking of the pectins that are in the outside, and because it's not vacuum infused in it only works on the things that are outside, and so the pectins don't break down uh even over long periods of cooking. Uh in something like uh when you're doing nixdamal, the the basicity is also useful in dissolving the seed coat uh on the outside, but uh I don't know what effect the basicity has on um on something like uh on something like uh, I don't know, my brain is totally fried, but the basicity has on the effect of something like uh like a vegetable. Except for this.
+
+[47:22] I know that uh when you add baking soda to uh broccoli, we did this test it. Do we ever put this on cooking issues? I can't remember. If you add baking soda to broccoli water, the stuff stays green forever because it's not acidic, and so the chlorophyll doesn't get uh changed in form and stays bright green. The problem is it gets mushy because um in basic conditions the pectin breaks down much more rapidly.
+
+[47:43] Right? Yeah, yeah. However, if you use cow, right, the calcium prevents the basic nature uh from uh the from turning it mushy and it stays uh stays hard. So, you know, my my feeling is is that if you used calcium oxide as your uh as your calcium source, that it would just turn to calcium hydroxide anyway. But please, someone who's better in chemistry, call back and tell me what's going on.
+
+[48:06] Anyway, uh what do you think? Enough, enough, nothing? Okay. Um okay. Marty writes in uh could you please ask Dave what his experiences have been like fermenting rice?
+
+[48:15] I made a giant pot of glutinous rice, pitched a couple of Chinese yeast balls in with it, and put the whole mess into a fermentation pot for three weeks before straining out the liquid. The results taste like cloudy shwaty balls. If you remember that, remember that? Shuddy balls. Uh I love that, like uh I love though that you actually have a mental whatever, I'm not gonna talk about it.
+
+[48:32] I'm thinking I didn't let it ferment long enough. Any tips thank Marty. Marty, I'm thinking you fermented it too long. So what we're talking about here is these uh these balls you can get in uh did McGee ever write about them? I don't know.
+
+[48:44] Harold McGee taught us about them is that you can go into almost any uh you know ch large Chinese grocery store in uh in Chinatown and you get these little yeast balls and they look like little white, almost like malted balls, you know what I mean? And then uh and they're a mixture of uh uh you know bacteria, I think, and yeast, similar to kind of koji, but different, you know, similar to the Japanese koji kind of thing, but different. And you cook a glutinous rice, and then you crumple up the ball and you mix it with water and you put it into the glutinous rice, uh, and it breaks it down, it breaks into a liquid, so you can make something you know, this kind of liquid uh drink, uh Chinese style liquid rice drink, or and the rice hus left over can be fried. And McGee was doing a lot of work on it, and I think he might have written about it for for either for something or other, because he had done a lot of work with it, and Dan Felder at Mamafuku's lab has worked with it a bunch because they're doing a lot of work with different kinds of koji. Um, but those things ferment relatively quickly.
+
+[49:38] Like when I was doing it, I've only done it like three times. Uh I I let it only go for like four days. Do you know what I'm saying? So I think that your your cloudy shweddy balls uh is mainly due to uh letting it go too long. Now I wasn't getting super high yields out of it, so maybe you're trying to let it go longer because after it broke and went liquid, you didn't get enough of a yield out of the situation.
+
+[50:00] I know Dan Felder has been doing some interesting work where he's break pre-breaking the rice grain to try and increase the yield for stuff like that. But uh I don't I don't know enough about his actual techniques because you know we're we we don't actually work together, right? Uh but I I think your problem there is you're just going too long. It's I think I I I used mine like a day or two after it broke, and I did my D I did my stuff in uh my dehydrator. I put it in a big bowl in my dehydrator covered, so I wasn't actually dehydrating it, but so that I could keep the temperatures high.
+
+[50:30] Because my temperatures, I think I was running it at like 120, a little under 120, maybe like one, like maybe like a hundred, a hundred degrees Fahrenheit, a hundred and ten, hundred, something like that, uh covered with uh with plastic wrap, and it it only ran like for like four days or something like that before I used it. So don't go as long, Marty. And taste it as you go. Taste it as you did. Did you forget about it, Marty.
+
+[50:52] I think what happened is Marty made it and he let it sit there and he forgot about it. And then he came back, you know, several weeks later and tell so because like it did because what I would do whenever I do anything like this is you gotta make a large enough batch so that you can taste a little bit as it goes, so you know what's happening to it along the way. And I think you'll find that earlier in in the process it's gonna be um a little bit better. Right? Okay.
+
+[51:15] Um uh Kevin uh Liu writes in and uh we you know uh Twitter What are you doing? Nastasha literally smashed her head into the microphone. Yeah, it was the headphone. Yeah, sure it was the headphone. Anyway.
+
+[51:28] Uh so yeah, we we talked to Kevin a lot on uh on the Twitter, and uh he writes in that uh he's been working on a cocktail book, it's 90% done, uh, and uh sent us a copy, so we're gonna read it and then I will make some comments next week on the on the book after we get a chance to read it, right? Yep. Yeah. Uh you know, I myself am also it's on the cocktails in science. Uh and uh so I you know, I look forward to look forward to reading it.
+
+[51:53] I am also, of course, writing a book on a similar subject. Uh of course, mine is is six months overdue, and I'm a bad person, and I'm getting threatening letters from my publisher. True or false. So eight months overdue. What did I say?
+
+[52:06] Six. It was due in June, yeah? Yeah. Yeah, yeah. Thanks.
+
+[52:10] Thanks for the moral support. Stas just a font of moral support. Um anyway. So uh Ken what? What the heck?
+
+[52:20] Your head has been on your neck your whole life. How do you not know where it is? This is the best segment of the show yet. Seriously, people, I think, you know. Okay.
+
+[52:30] So I'll leave you with this. Ken Igber, longtime listener, friend of ours, friend of the show. Uh, is he a member? Is Ken a member? Uh not yet, but Ken if you should be.
+
+[52:39] He came to the Museum of Food and Drink uh uh event that we did uh a couple years ago. By the way, little little more expensive than the members. Yeah, that's right. Membership is only sixty bucks, Ken. HeritageRadio Network dot org backslash donate.
+
+[52:51] Wow. I have to. Yeah, to plug the plug. Okay. Uh speaking of the museum, uh before before we go out, uh good news on the museum we're we're we're looking at some different spaces for spaces.
+
+[53:01] So look for more stuff happening in the museum. A lot of people are like, what's going on with the museum? What's going on with the museum is uh and this is a museum of food and drink for people that this is the first time you've ever heard what's going on. Uh we're working on a museum of food and drink that we hope to open up in New York City uh in the next couple of years. If we're gonna start small as a gallery space, and we have a lot of really, really good, good people um behind us in the food community.
+
+[53:22] And uh there's an RFP uh request for proposals for spaces in the Lower East Side right near where I live. Uh and so we're trying to work on on that. And if we can't get that, we're trying to find some other spaces. So anyone that wants to come help out, we have people working on the museum full time. We have a team of three people working on it full time.
+
+[53:38] Anyone wants to uh you know, volunteer to help help them out or give any advice on that stuff, you know, please uh tweet us on in and I'll send you on over to the Museum of Food and Drink people. Or tweet me. All right, tweet Nastasha, please, please follow her. Otherwise I'm gonna have to hear the mopingness of no one following Nastasha. Oh my god.
+
+[53:57] All right, anyway. So long time listener and uh supporter of the museum, Ken Ken Ken Ingber, uh uh wrote in about the question we had on uh philosophy. Remember, oh, before I do that, do I have I do have time to that we had a a call in real quick. Uh not a call in, but uh uh someone who tweeted in uh late. I'll do their question real quick because I'm I'm gonna be fast.
+
+[54:14] Elliot writes in uh Dave, Nastasha, and crew. I'm thinking about making bread with a portion of the flour replaced by dehydrated vegetable powder. I would juice the vegetables, reserve the liquid to hydrate the dough, then dehydrate the pulp and grind to a fine powder for use in uh as a dry ingredient additive in the bread. Any suggestion on what to do, uh what to add to the dry ingredients for gluten development? Thanks for the help, Elliot.
+
+[54:36] Okay, so I'm assuming that you're dealing with a regular gluten bread, uh, and then uh so that this is not a difficult problem. And I used to do this all the time. Just go buy vital wheat gluten uh in the store, and then uh you know, the whatever percentage powder you're adding, just add enough vital wheat gluten to equal the proportion of bread flour, and you should get not a hundred, it's not gonna be a hundred percent similar because the product that you're adding isn't flour, but you should be able to get some of the strength involved. So let's say you were gonna add 20% of the weight of uh, you know, of the flour um as this vegetable powder, right? Then you what you're talking about is uh 20% of the weight of the flour, you figure you're like, you know, 14% protein or something like that, 12%, you know, whatever, 12%, 14% protein.
+
+[55:21] So you should add uh whatever 12, 14% of that, 20% you should add as vital wheat gluten, right? And it's not gonna be 100% the same because you're adding like a pectin slurry and stuff like that. The other the other way to do it is uh not go through that trouble is here's what you're doing, here's what you say you're gonna do. You say you're gonna juice the vegetables, right? And then you're gonna hydrate the dough with the liquid from the vegetables and then add the pulp.
+
+[55:45] It seems to me that if you just figure out, go on the internets and figure out the moisture content of the vegetables to begin with, then you could calculate how much liquid is in the vegetables. Oh, I see what you're you're worried that you're worried that there's not gonna be enough. I see, you're worried that it's gonna be hard to hydrate. Uh, my my head is thinking, well, you're worried that's it that it's gonna be difficult to hydrate unless you actually separate it out versus just adding the puree to the bread. That's my guess, right?
+
+[56:08] Right? Anyone else with me? Anyway, so if you think that's otherwise, you can just add the puree and add gluten to make up for it, but I see what you're saying. You want to get the juice, hydrate the dough properly, then add the paste back. Whatever.
+
+[56:18] Try it that way, but just add some vital weak gluten, it shouldn't be a problem. Okay, back to Ken. So uh a while ago we had a question on um on why is it that there's so many uh chefs who you know have philosophy degrees. And you know, I speculated maybe it's because uh, you know, uh chefs like useless degrees. I don't know, right?
+
+[56:39] I have a philosophy degree, um, you know, whatever, Wiley, I think Chang maybe even we said there's a whole bunch of people that have Chang's religion? Hilarious. Anyway, uh so Ken Ken had some uh Ken had some uh thoughts and I will share them with you on the way out. Uh Ken writes, I am not a chef, so let's be clear my answer is not from a chef's perspective. I am merely a home cook with an interest in the modernist approach and a degree in philosophy.
+
+[57:03] Uh although Ken, I guess putting it to good use, unlike unlike you know, me. Um I think the connection is that uh we philosophy majors are particularly interested in the essence of things. Julia Child first brought my generation the Platonic ideal of both French cooking and fine cooking. The long-standing movement back to ingredients and back to authentic styles of cooking relate to the essence of food. And I believe modernist cooking and its progeny start with the notion of the essence of food.
+
+[57:28] The works of chefs like Wiley are charming in both senses of that word because both chef and customer begin with an understanding of the essence of the food and launch from there. The food challenges both chef and customer as to what is the essence of food, the nature of food, and the platonic ideal of food. Maybe even God help me, the epistemology of food. Ken Ingber, cooking issues. Hey, what's up?
+
+[57:58] Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network dot org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization.
+
+[58:22] To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] The following program has been brought to you by Rolling Press, a family-run, eco-friendly printing company. For more information, visit Rolling Press.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Cooking is the questions to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:57] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming live in the back of uh Roberta's Peter here in Bushwig Brooklyn on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from roughly twelve, now to roughly one, right, Jack? Yeah, exactly. We're rough over here. We're rough, we're rough.
+
+[1:10] Uh well, you know, when you're in a uh, you know, in an old container in the back of a pizzeria, you're you know, you're a little rough. Right? Right? Yeah. Okay.
+
+[1:18] Joined as usual with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez and with uh a special guest who uh Jack, you want to explain the uh the contest here? Yes, John Sisson, I hope I pronounced the last name right. Uh he won an auction at just food to spend a day with me here at Heritage Radio Network. So he's sitting in for cooking issues. Yeah, nice, nice.
+
+[1:36] And uh John uh uh was a chef uh retired how long ago? Oh uh fifteen years ago now. Yeah, and uh where were you uh where were we shoving in for our I was at the old town bar on eighteenth street uh for about ten years. Nice, nice. How are you enjoying your day so far?
+
+[1:52] It's been great. Heard two or three shows and uh really enjoying it and uh loving the back of Robert is here. Yeah, yeah, it's nice. I mean, it's interesting seeing the people eating their well, I guess they're just now eating their lunch. You'll see some some weird folks.
+
+[2:05] I've had we have people doing their hair while looking at us, right? Like it's a one-way mirror. Very strange. Very odd stuff, odd business. Uh Dave, before we start the show, I have two big shout-outs.
+
+[2:15] John Riper, uh listener, and he submitted a few questions, made a very nice donation to Heritage Radio Network. So thank you, John. And today, Yeah Malka, and I hope I said that correctly, became a member of Heritage Radio Network.org as well. So cooking issues fans showing their support. Beautiful.
+
+[2:32] We have a question from both of them, and it is uh Yehuda from Silver Spring, Maryland. Give some give some love for Silver Spring. You ever been to Silver Spring, Maryland? My car broke down there once. Joe has.
+
+[2:43] Yeah, Joe, nice. Uh yeah, Joe as usual. And uh Nastasha, this is your first full week of having a Twitter account, so what do you think? Uh I like it. Yeah?
+
+[2:50] In fact, you're looking at it right now, or just texting Zappos. Is that the first time she said I like it on the program? Uh it might be. It might be. Uh speaking of, we have some uh we have some Nastasha related questions uh today.
+
+[3:02] Justin Bray went into uh into the Twitter and said, How did Nastasha get the nickname the Hammer? Well what what do you think? You gave it to me. Yeah, but what but I mean, like what's your interpretation? Um because I'm tough on people.
+
+[3:16] Why don't you tell them why you eat it? I don't know, because uh well, you know the the whole point is that look we we have this thing where I'm supposed to be nice to people other than her. And she is supposed to be mean to people. And see, this is the way most, you know, kind of business teams work, right? Where you have the one person who's always kind of you know friendly, right?
+
+[3:34] So they never appear to be the the jackass, right? And then you have the other one, the hammer, who basically is like, no, you all that stuff he said that you could have or that he was gonna do, he's not gonna do that, and you can't have it. She's supposed to do that, but it turns out, people, that she's actually only mean to me. That's so not true. Well, you're actually you're mean to other people.
+
+[3:52] Every time I try to be mean to people, you are not happy about it. And you're like, what are you doing? That's not that's not okay. Right. And and also she has all the subtlety, the fine subtlety of a hammer.
+
+[4:05] But no, but no, but also, you know, hammer, boom, strength. Yes. Right? Yes. Yeah, right.
+
+[4:10] What was the other one? Uh oh, the other one uh was uh I'm trying to find oh yes, from John Powers Kirk, uh must be to you, although you erased it and said, Can you tell Dave that you're smarter than him, but uh then with an emoticon afterwards, that kind of like also I would believe him, except he used the wrong your. See, I was gonna see, that's why she's the hammer. I was gonna leave that out. I was leaving that out of the equation.
+
+[4:37] Well, how do I take that seriously? Uh and well, and how do you use the name the hammer unless you bring it up? It's strong, Nastasha. I look Nastasha can do it. She can do what she likes.
+
+[4:47] She can do what she likes. Uh, but you know what? Like, uh that is the that is the occasional show of strength that makes me appreciate the uh the Lopez uh a little bit. Okay, call your questions to 7184972128. That's 7184972128.
+
+[5:02] Let's go to the question we already have questions we already have from John Riper, new uh donor and member. Thank you. And uh as uh we said, I guess a couple of weeks ago, apples are better when picked riper, right? Wasn't that how it how it worked? Okay.
+
+[5:15] Deer cooking issues peeps. I often hear chefs say that roasting meat on the bone gives it more flavor. Is that true? Or is it the same kind of perceived wisdom uh as searing the meat to seal in the juices is when we're in and for those of you that oh my god, Indy Jesus is back on Tuesdays. Yes, I know, I know.
+
+[5:34] You know, I wish that everyone who could hear our voices could see the glory. The glory that is Indy Jesus. Listen to this back to the table. And we're not allowed to play uh other people's music anymore, but I need a little bit of what's the buzz, tell me what's happening going on. For your little Andrew Lloyd Weber action, maybe just for us to listen to during the break so that I can have some indie Jesus.
+
+[5:54] We'll credit them or whatever we need to do for the Yeah, I'm sorry, John, of that for the for the tangent here, but now I got into Indy Jesus on my mind. Okay. Uh so as we all know, uh searing the uh you know, searing the meat uh to seal in the juices is uh an old an old thing that uh chefs and cooks say that dates back to uh Justice von Liebig and it was uh this is one of Harold McGee's great uh kind of personal hangs his hat on this fact is that he was the first to call uh what's the what's the plate way of saying BS? Just horse hockey or whatever, yeah. The first to call crap on that.
+
+[6:28] Crap on searing. Uh and uh in fact, searing is just uh something that is uh makes incredibly delicious crust uh on a meat and has nothing to do with sealing in the juices, right? Okay. I mean, searing, still obviously good practice, just doesn't happen to seal in the juices. So back to the question.
+
+[6:43] Uh just so you know the background for John's question. Okay, uh I can see how the bones could affect the shape uh of a roast and influence heat transfer into the flesh, but I'm missing how a bone generates uh much flavor even to adjoining meat, let alone how a bone affects the flavor of roasted meat that's further away. Uh John, I think you're you're you're dead right here. I think uh what the bone is, is the bone is a a moderating, it's a moderating element uh from a heat transfer uh for standpoint. Uh also, I mean, I guess you can make an argument that the more you hack into a piece of meat to get rid of the bone, the more you spread it out and the less it's a whole piece of meat.
+
+[7:19] Uh but uh yeah, I I think it's mainly it's it's in terms of actually adding flavor, other than the fact that I love Louis Prima's song, The Closer to the Bone, the Sweeter is the Meat. The last slice of Virginia Ham is the best that you can eat. Uh, you know, aside from that, I don't think there's much to it from an actual uh flavor standpoint. And uh assuming equal cooking, uh, if you took a cube of meat that was far away from the bone or close to the bone, other than the inherent uh uh muscular differences between them, uh I don't think there'd be much difference in flavor. What do you think?
+
+[7:49] I agree. Yeah, see? Yeah, I mean it's a it's uh it's yeah, it's it's I mean, like, is that one of the things you still believe, Nastasha, in your in your kind of like, you know, panoply of uh the meat closer to the bone? Oh, you don't think about it, you don't get it. I don't care.
+
+[8:02] He's like, what does it have to do with Zappos? Nothing. Has nothing to do with Zappos, so I don't care. Uh by the way, the other uh thing I had back on you being smarter uh uh the smart one of the two, which I'm not denying, by the way, but my feeling I just get a secret feeling that John Powers Kirk is in fact just another biscuit hater like you. It's another hater of biscuits.
+
+[8:21] Um, I actually like questions like that. I mean, and I would love someone to call in and tell me I'm an idiot, moron, that in fact the bone really affects the flavor, but I don't think so. What? It's not gonna happen. Wait, oh, we're getting a picture of Indy Jesus and she's gonna tweet.
+
+[8:34] She's not gonna get a good one, though. It looks like the Messiah is delivering pizza. Look at that. Okay, well, tweet it out. I would just like to go on record and say Dante is a really great guy.
+
+[8:44] Before I do this, Jim. Wait a second. There's no denying that he's a uh uh I mean, like, would Indie Jesus make him a bad person? No, no, just in case listeners think we're po you know, that's what I'm trying to put it up there. Craig eye.
+
+[8:56] All right. I mean, I don't know the man other than that. I wish he would deliver me pizza. Oh, he might! He's working our station.
+
+[9:02] Oh, this is awesome. Okay. Uh Tom writes in. Hi, Joe, Joe, you get the call out first. Jack, Nastasha, and Dave, my family wants more bread than my wife and I can bake, and so she's wanting a bread machine.
+
+[9:13] But these are bulky and expensive for a grad student in a small apartment. I'd have trouble justifying the purchase if the machine only makes bread. Are there other uses for bread machines like low temperature baking, curing, sous vide, etc.? Alternately, uh, could I use some other device to bake bread? Uh and if it turns out you're a fan of bread machines, what's your favorite?
+
+[9:30] Thanks, Tom. Tom, I am not uh a fan of bread machines. Uh my grandpa had one, and and it was kind of sweet. He always used to bring over these like strange square loaves of bread with the bottom ripped out where the little mixing thing was in the bottom of the bread machine. Uh I I never was such a fan of my grandpa's loaves, and so I never developed a deep abiding love for uh bread machines.
+
+[9:53] I will say this. When I was an undergraduate, one of the ways I wooed my wife was I went to the uh thrift store and I bought you can't buy them that the old don't buy the old ones if you have a family because you know all of the insulation is made out of asbestos and the cords are made out of asbestos, and I'm sure they're fire hazards. But uh they used to sell these old things called uh turkey ovens because the idea was on Thanksgiving that you had uh very little oven space and you need to cook a bunch, so you would cook your turkey in this separate oven. And it amounts to a cross between a crock pot and an oven, and it looks like a giant Dutch oven with a plug coming out of it. Uh and turns out they get hot enough and they can make a passable uh loaf of bread.
+
+[10:31] You have to uh uh cut a special plate to fit into the bottom so you can pull it out in and out easily. But you can even uh put like a quarry tile into one if you knock the edges off the quarry tile and fit in. And they get hot enough to make a decent loaf of bread, and they're small, somewhat portable, cheap. Uh they can they can still be had at thrift shops if you want to dare the old uh plugs or rip the old plug off and put a new one on. And that's how I used to bake bread.
+
+[10:53] I was an idiot, moron, and I didn't go get a stone. I used to uh rip the backs off of notebooks, the cardboard backs off of notebooks, and bake my bread on noses my sheets. And yes, the bottom had a slight cardboardy taste, but I was 18. I was eighteen. Anyway, uh you're a fan of bread machines, uh, John there.
+
+[11:09] You ever use one? Um mostly for the dough only. Oh, because it's a good mixer of the dough? Use it for the mix and dough. And uh actually I'm a big fan of the uh no need recipe.
+
+[11:19] Oh, yeah, the uh Leahy No Need recipe. Yeah, and that's uh great with uh the steam that's generated in in a cast iron pot. Yeah, I mean, I think uh a lot of us nowadays uh a lot of us nowadays are are shifting towards the super long like whether or not you're a firm uh advocate, and we're talking about uh Leahy's uh book, uh what's it called? Bread My Way, uh and uh and also Bittman, who wrote a bunch of articles in the Times about it, and he kind of you know, and Stasha worked for him for like 25 seconds. Thirty seconds?
+
+[11:48] How long was it? I think a month. Oh, yeah. Anyway, so uh, you know, uh fabulous bread maker. I mean, I mean I've if anyone lived in New York prior to when Leahy opened Sullivan Street Bakery, like you know that when his bakery hit, we were all like, wow, that's good bread, right?
+
+[12:03] Right. We're all like, wow, that was good bread. It still is good bread. Uh but uh it's kind of a miracle in uh in kind of uh bread. I think it you know was a harbinger of a lot to come in the way of not that there wasn't good bread here in New York, there was good bread in here in New York, but I mean I think his style of bread uh was kind of new and we really in here and we I think everyone really appreciated it.
+
+[12:21] And his book uh made a lot of ways, and but I think in one of the reasons it becomes so popular is that in addition to his no-need uh kind of m uh recipe, which is seen as a low work and therefore American friendly way to do things, uh we're all all of us uh going to much longer, longer, longer rise times in our um in our in our bread baking uh when we have the time to do it. And so I think that most of us now, especially build into our our regimens if we're gonna bake, whether it's pizza or whether it's bread, uh, you know, we're more apt to plan uh a day or two in advance, and so we could do some of these longer. It's not that they take more physical time in the kitchen, it just takes more actual clock time for these things to happen. And so I see a big shift, and I think that's one of the reasons that's become popular. But I never thought of having one just to need the dough.
+
+[13:07] It's an interesting idea. Because you don't have to like mess with it like you do with it, because the kitchen aid makes a horrible mess when I'm quick and easy. Yeah. And hour and a half, you have dough, and then you can bake it off. Yeah, in your turkey roaster.
+
+[13:21] In your turkey roaster, some um you know, I bet you could probably get bread machines in the thrift store on the eBay too. Sure. Probably, right? I'm uh I'm a as anyone who's ever heard me before knows I'm a huge fan of the buying stuff cheap on eBay and then uh you know fixing it all with duct tape. Although Nastasha, our new year's resolution, no more duct tape.
+
+[13:37] Well no more ghetto. Yeah, no more, yeah, yeah, right. I mean, like we don't want to be the people whose box is is is stuck together with duct tape. We want a new box. Right?
+
+[13:45] Fair? Yes. Yeah, fair. Uh speaking of which, Nastasha, you know, we need to convince uh some company to let us test out a vacuum machine so we can shoot the cocktail book. Okay.
+
+[13:54] Anyone out there runs a vacuum mini? I happen to like the mini pack. We never got we were supposed to shoot a thing for minipack, and we never did it, right? I can follow up with that. Yeah, all right, all right.
+
+[14:00] Mini pack. Mini pack makes a good vacuum machine. You know, well, this is the all the vacuum machines work, it's just whether or not you like the people, like the programming and like the features. The mini pack, what I like about, and we're gonna talk about vacuum machines in a minute. What I like about the mini-pack, and I'm not saying that they should ship me one, but what I like about it is it has the it has a really good chamber size uh for the actual footprint of the vacuum, um, which to me is important because and to a lot of our listeners important because uh you know what you end up getting limited by in a vacuum machine is the chamber size of the of the vacuum.
+
+[14:29] Um, okay. Uh you think I answered Tom's question? Yes. Okay. I don't think they're uh accurate enough to do low temperature cooking, by the way, to go back to your other question, and they're not also meant for I think complete although they can take a merge.
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+[14:42] I'm sure the gasket in the bottom, they're probably built like a blender in that way. They could take a full thing of water. I you know, and look, theoretically, you could probably take a bread machine, uh PID control it with a with an external thing, like rip out the plug, put the heating element. I mean, because I've done that too, um you know the Wyatt steam table bass that uh you know we all use like the big electrics that it just click on and off, on and off. I modified one of those to do low temperature cooking once with a with a thermometer and a PID.
+
+[15:08] And you could do that with a bread machine, and you could probably even rip out the m you know, motor or slow it down somehow so that it could just stir uh and then put a grate over it so that you could throw bags into it, and you could theoretically hack the thing into a into a low temperature cooker. The problem is is that the I mean if you look at the loaf size, it's kind of like tall and loaf-shaped or round and loaf-shaped, I think. I think my grandpa's was square, but I think they're round most of them, right? Now, or they're square-shaped, the the vessel that they bake in. They're square, either a vertical square or the horizontal square like the traditional loaf, but uh the mixing doesn't work nearly as well.
+
+[15:42] No, I would go vertical if I was gonna get it. So would I yeah. But uh but the but the point being that uh it's not of a large volume for low temperature cooking, and so I think you'd have trouble, not from a power standpoint probably, but from a from a f um uh cooking area standpoint, uh converting it to a low temperature cooking machine. Anyway, okay, okay, okay. Uh now, here here's a here's a long one.
+
+[16:02] And I c this is uh from um uh Mark Krasnow writes in, who's moving from New Zealand to uh to Hyde Park, I guess I guess. Or not whether he's moving, he's gonna start teaching at the CIA's new culinary science program in Hyde Park. And we're friends with some of the folks that by the way, I don't know whether we did we announce this last week that I'm a actually like the the French culinary or the International Culinary Center and and we have parted ways. I don't think you did. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[16:27] So uh just so everybody knows, uh my you know, long term tenure at uh, you know, w what what when I was hired was the French Culinary Institute. Like we're now no longer working together anymore, but we're all still very friendly. Right? Mm-hmm. Yeah.
+
+[16:41] Anyway. So uh I am no longer the c uh director of culinary technology. But uh uh very proud of what we did there. We did a lot of excellent stuff and we wish them all the best. Okay.
+
+[16:53] Anyway, uh so if CIA wants to hire no, I'm just kidding, I'm just messing around. Uh I don't know, I don't have time. Uh well no I'm not time. Anyway. Uh so Mark Krasnow, I currently teach uh viticulture at the Eastern Institute of Technology in Napier, New Zealand.
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+[17:06] I wonder where that is. I wonder where Napier is. Do you know? No. No, no, I've I'm very bad with my New Zealand geography.
+
+[17:11] But uh love seeing a warrior princess. Okay. Uh I currently teach viticulture at the Eastern Institute of Technology in Napier, New Zealand, but we'll be heading to the States in May to start teaching uh the CIA's new culinary science program in Hyde Park. I very much enjoy your show and I love the fact that you folks know your science. Thank you.
+
+[17:25] Uh a colleague of mine, Chef Mark Caves, has told me that he noticed the meats fully vacuumed for sous-vide cooking seemed more tender to him than those with less vacuum during sealing. We recently conducted an experiment to test this hypothesis using the gluteus medius muscle uh dissected from whole top sirloins. Triplicate sample uh samples were sealed at three different levels in an audio in an Audion vac uh VMS 53 sealer, and I which I I don't have any uh experience with that. But they were they were done at uh a medium vacuum and full vacuum at the lightest vacuum they could do. Now I'm not allowed to talk about any of the specifics of the paper because it's in review, so I won't do that.
+
+[18:00] I'll just talk about the other parts of it, which are uh important to me. Anyway, um of the pieces of information we needed uh to write up and publish the paper was the actual pressure uh experienced by the food at different sealing levels. I contacted the manufacturer, but they could give me no numbers as to the actual vacuum uh that would be affected by a pump uh strength because it was affected by the pump strength, age, uh size of stuff to be sealed, leaks, etc. What they did tell me was that the number on the dial does not correspond to the percent vacuum, but is rather the number of seconds that the pump runs. Therefore, I had to check the pressures on the dial of the machine in our kitchens during sealing.
+
+[18:35] What I found was surprising, at least to me. Full vacuum pressure, uh the dial set all the way, occurred at about 30 seconds, regardless of the setting uh on the dial, suggesting that the pump uh has only one speed and that full vacuum would actually be achieved uh at numero 30 on the 1299 setting, which is totally misleading in my opinion. Okay, first of all, let's let's just let me hit that before I go on, because it's a long type thing, and I want people to keep track of what's going on here. Older style vacuum machines, and we're talking about chamber sealing vacuum machines that we use to seal foods in bags, typically for uh for uh low temperature cooking, or if you go into a supermarket and you're buying meats that are cryo bagged or whatever, all right? Vacuum sealing.
+
+[19:13] Older style vacuum pumps uh have a uh timer in them, and they run their pumps for a certain length of time. After that length of time, uh they uh seal the bag, let the air come back in, and it's done. Newer style uh vacuum, and for those ones, literally it's just a timer on it, and so you're just setting it for a length of time. Uh newer style vacuum machines have in them uh vacuum sensors that are actually sensing the level of vacuum that's being stored. They are still, however, not accurate as to what is being experienced by the food in the bag.
+
+[19:45] They are accurate about what the vacuum level happens to be right where the sensor is. Now, how can those be different, right? Like they seems like vacuum should be the same everywhere. And on an instantaneous basis, that's true. However, uh many of our foods have trapped air on the inside of them.
+
+[20:03] Leafy greens have lots of air on the inside of them. Anything with bones, there's lots of air on the inside of a bone. Uh and so many of our foods have trapped air. And you know, one of the biggest uh demos that we used to do for uh low temp sous vide at the at the French culinary in our in our in our classes, and I think we've done it at the Harvard lecture, is you throw a marshmallow into a vacuum machine and the marshmallow expands. And everyone's like, oh, that's cool, the marshmallow expands because the air on the inside's expanding and and it can't get out.
+
+[20:29] What's interesting about the marshmallow experiment isn't that they get big, it's that they start shrinking again about uh 10 to 15 seconds after you start sucking the vacuum. And what that tells you is is that the air inside the marshmallow is slowly leaking out. And and what that means is that the eventual pressure that your food will, partial pressure of oxygen in an atmosphere that your food will feel on the inside of the bag is dependent on how much of the trapped air that you get out of that food, and that is not measurable by a gauge on the inside of your vacuum machine. Now, in your experiment where you're using presumably whole muscle cuts without uh a lot of slices in them that are not all jammed together in a bunch of different pieces and there's no bones in it, right? Then you can start making assumptions like whatever the gauge is telling you is fairly accurate.
+
+[21:18] But here's another point, right? So the gauges in a typical vacuum machine uh that have analog gauges are horribly inaccurate and horribly inaccurate. And especially when you get into the range of interest, which is where you evacuated over 90 to 90 and change percent of the air that's available in there. Those gauges are because there's much less for them to measure than there is for them to measure at full pressure. So they're horribly inaccurate in those in those ranges.
+
+[21:46] And so it's difficult, not impossible, but difficult to gauge with an analog gauge exactly what's going on with the machine with one of these machines. Now you could put a fairly accurate digital gauge in there and measure it, but again, it's not necessarily going to be indicative of what a customer or a user is going to experience on the piece of meat when they're doing it. Uh another thing is that I don't like that some machines measure in percent vacuum. Percent vacuum is a horribly imprecise uh term, even in the imprecise world of measuring the vacuum on the inside of a vacuum machine, because the closer you get to a hundred percent vacuum, right, the more widely variant uh the actual numbers that they're measuring are in terms of millibar. So it's it's difficult uh to measure that way.
+
+[22:31] Uh so instead, I like uh ones that measure in millibar. Here's another thing that true that a lot of companies won't tell you unless you ask them. Some companies that have gauges on the inside of their vacuum machine will actually measure the pressure up to a certain level and then just throw on a timer. They're like, so you know, the old mini packs work that way. They'll actually measure the vacuum level up to about ninety uh ninety-eight percent.
+
+[22:52] And then after it's at ninety-eight percent vacuum, it just starts counting off a timer. And you know how I know this? Because I defeated the machine, stuck my finger against the vacuum thing, let it go up to 98%, released my uh thumb so that air was streaming through the machine at atmospheric pressure, and watch the numbers keep taking on up to 99.9% vacuum. This is how I test these kinds of things because back then I had more time than good sense on my hands. Uh so anyway, so that's how it works.
+
+[23:18] Okay. Uh so back to back to your question, or back to your uh what you discovered. It says we found large and statistically significant differences in the century sensory parameters between the medium and high vacuum levels when compared with the minimal vac uh minimal vacuum levels, but very few differences between the medium and high vacuum samples experience the same pressure. Um this suggests that more time at full vacuum has diminishing returns as far as improvement of sensory properties in a relatively non-porous food like muscle foods. Um and and then you're I have a lot of comments on that, but I'm gonna wait for a second.
+
+[23:51] Your question after that is is this mode of action typical of vacuum sealers, or do most actually have settings that correspond to the actual pressure in the ceiling chamber? Uh I'm suspecting that my vacuum machine is rather old and not exactly top of the line, and that newer ones might be more adjustable. Uh I figured you guys being experts on the equipment side of things might be able to help me out with this question. I think it would be very interesting to redo this study with uh an actual measured half vacuum around 50 uh 500 KPA. Although I only think in millibars, which is millibars like 1065, 1065 millibars is atmospheric normal, like standard atmospheric pressure, and zero is full vacuum.
+
+[24:25] So anyone that wants to discuss in a way that I understand has to go in millibars or my brain just goes, you know there's only so much I can keep track of, people. Okay. Uh back to your other statement. I uh I actually believe exactly the opposite of what uh your paper um uh what you what you're suggesting. In other words, I think that the higher vacuums actually decrease the quality of uh the foods.
+
+[24:44] Okay. And what you're saying is extremely interesting because and I and you know it we haven't done it in a controlled way, the way you have, but we've done it uh in over many iterations of the sous vide low temperature uh class that we've taught. And what's very interesting is is that it is that the likes and dislikes, because you're talking in your thing, tenderness and juiciness, which are terms that are so loaded that I hate I hate using them. And and the actual whether you like it or not splits kind of down the line, where some people really like the low temperature, uh low vacuum uh pack samples. In fact, Ziplocks I think are the ideal for those people.
+
+[25:30] I'm in those people. And then uh you have the camp that seems to like the higher vacuum one, and uh whole muscle red meat cuts are the least affected by the vacuum level in terms of uh sensory perception. Uh chicken and fish, like salmon are the ones that are kind of uh affected the most. Here is the deal. When you and this is why tenderness and and uh and juiciness aren't necessarily good indicators.
+
+[25:58] When you chew into something that's cooked at a uh that's bagged and cooked at a high vacuum level, it explodes with uh juice in your mouth, and then in my feeling turns to mush because it almost has a fibery characteristic that you don't necessarily get at the lower vacuum levels. So in the people that like that, it's that's perceived as being juicy because you get this explosion of juice, and is tender because it's soft. For me, it is lack of structure. And and when the more you chew, the the first three bites, first three chews rather, are extremely filled with juice, but the last three chews are kind of dry and pulpy. So to me, I like the quality better at much lower vacuum levels.
+
+[26:42] So it's it's difficult to equate like statistic like actual statistically measurable things like how much juice is expressed, or how much uh force it takes to drive a you know uh a probe through a piece of meat. Much harder to do uh uh much easier to do that than to actually say, well, which one's better and which one's worse. What do you think says? Good job. Okay.
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+[27:03] Uh and with that, let's go to our first commercial break, cooking issues. This is Fish's Fish is vodka by the meatballers. Rolling Press is a family-run commercial offset print house that brings together environmentally friendly methods, ethical practices, and personalized service. Founded in 1998 by Eugene Lee and his father, Cam Lee. Rolling Press represents the harmony of traditional craftsmanship and green technology.
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+[28:29] Rolling press prints using soy and vegetable inks. Uses a variety of certified and recycled papers, and they incorporate a chemical-free production process. For more information, visit rolling press.com. And welcome back. Calling your questions to 7184972128.
+
+[28:45] That's 7184972128. What do you like better? The crazy or the or the mellow? You like the mellow? Yeah.
+
+[28:50] Yeah? All right. Uh this is from Yehudo just became a member. Thanks, Yehuda. Uh, in Silver Spring, Maryland.
+
+[28:59] I don't like that applause in Red Jack because they're they're really tentative about starting it up. I agree. So you can get one where like people are right into it, right? Or like the one clap starts. Like like the like the like the one like the the sarcastic one.
+
+[29:18] That one? Yeah. Yeah. Or just get like there, baby. Get the old bronze.
+
+[29:23] You know, the old bronx, like the give him a raspberry, like wah wah. Yeah. Anyway, no. Switch it up, Jack. Nastasha, like, you know what?
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+[29:32] She's trying to live up now. Now that someone asks why she's called the hammer, she's trying to live up. She's dishing out. Always been so nice to me, and now now I know. By the way, Jack, did you get the date for Valentine's Day or what?
+
+[29:42] I went dateless on Valentine's Day. Oh man. Do you have a pity party machine in there? Like a little sound effect board for that? No.
+
+[29:51] Aww. That was you. Nice. Alright, beautiful. Uh yeah, so what'd you guys do for the Valentine's Day?
+
+[29:56] I hope Ben cooked a uh a good uh dinner for Anjali there. I don't know whether I gave him good advice or not. I haven't heard back yet, which means I probably didn't, and now he's a hater. Right? Right?
+
+[30:09] What did you do, Dave? I went to Del Posto, Nastasia. Where so I know that you weren't with your date on Valentine's Day because he was serving me dinner. Excellent dinner at Del Posto. Uh uh, as usual.
+
+[30:23] Uh anytime Dave can dread it ruin my happiness, he does. Oh yeah, because Mark was gonna be home with you that day. No, he was supposed to be home earlier. It is true. Oh, you know, this is such a loto horse hockey.
+
+[30:35] That's true. This is so crazy. Oh, yeah, yeah. Oh, from him that says Dave is still here. I'm not gonna be back by 11.
+
+[30:41] It wasn't Anthony Wiener two tables over from me. It wasn't Anthony Wiener, two tables over from me. That was the reason that they had a big scroll, and it wasn't. It was a guy that he knows and sees every week sitting at a table, you know, who's like a known that I like his food, like he has to worry about me and stay at the restaurant. That was his excuse.
+
+[30:57] Please. Oh, well, fair, fair. You know, I'll take that hit. I'll take that hit from Mark. Tell him about Brooks' cookies.
+
+[31:03] Oh, yeah. So Brooks, uh, you know, look, Brooks, uh, who also signed on in Norton, congratulations, he got a book deal. I'm sure he will actually deliver his book on time. Oh, and this they give him to give him Brooks the Brooks, one of my favorite ones. Yeah, he would actually, being uh, you know, a punk rock musician.
+
+[31:17] But you know, I I really appreciate his pastries. So here's what he did. So Del Posto, you know, uh what do they got? They got like eight million stars in New York Times or something like that. And uh uh so you know you're eating in a relatively formal environment, right?
+
+[31:31] It's probably the most formal Italian uh Italian-based restaurant in the city, is that true? Or like Maria, to you know. There was a as formal? Mm-hmm. Yeah.
+
+[31:39] Okay. Anyway, formal. And so Brooks comes out and it's it's my anniversary, like I said, of going out with uh of uh dating my wife. Uh you know, our relationship is 21 years old now and can drink. Uh and uh so he comes out and literally like takes these cookies, it puts all these like beautiful plated things on the table, and then throws cookies at the like explodes cookies at the table, such that I'm almost positive that some cookie shards hit Anthony Wiener in the head.
+
+[32:06] Actually, that's not true. He was like three tables over. I was like, Anthony Wiener. Anyway, uh so uh yeah, so shattered these cookies and kind of broke the formal, which I kind of liked. You've had that presentation, right?
+
+[32:16] No, I haven't, I've just heard about it. And people like it. Because they're not expecting it. First of all, Del Posto, like Del Posto, the guy can't use a crumb scraper. The guy comes out with like uh a napkin folded up between two spoons, which means it takes him 18 freaking years to scrape the crumbs off of your table.
+
+[32:33] You know what I'm talking about. Like Jen dropped a little spot of wine and they brought out the extra tablecloth that covered the one spot of wine. I hate when that happens. I yeah, here's the thing. For all the like, I understand that's part of the formal code, but you're probably making my wife feel worse that you had to bring out a bib for the table than the little spot of wine.
+
+[32:50] Yeah, yeah. If you spilled it, then cover it. But you know, whatever. But whatever, I like it. But my wife was like, Man, I'm messy.
+
+[32:56] I'm like, yeah, you are, because normally I'm the extremely messy one, let's be honest. Anyway, so like there's all this formality, and then Brooks comes out and explodes cookies on the table, and you're like, What? And then you eat the cookies. His stuff's good. Yeah.
+
+[33:07] Oh, yeah, great for him. I'll like all props. Props, props, okay. Uh Dave and the uh Dave uh and crew, because it dis you know didn't want to get in trouble with the with the no joe, so instead of just say you know saying it all out, just said and crew. Hey, crew.
+
+[33:20] How are you doing? Anyway, this is Yahuda. Uh, I'm currently transitioning between careers. I've been working as a high school teacher for the past seven years, and I'm now uh back in school for something totally different. While I was still teaching, a friend and I separ uh separately yet simultaneously began teaching ourselves how to be better cooks, mostly via a process of experimenting with recipes and techniques that seem beyond our skill set while also focusing on fundamentals of culinary knowledge.
+
+[33:42] Joined by a mutual love for cooking, especially uh for others. I guess cooking for others, that means nothing. Who likes cooking for themselves, really? Do you like cooking for yourself, Don? I do, actually.
+
+[33:50] Really? I'm thrifty and uh it saves a lot of money. Oh, that's true. But I mean, like, you know, whenever my wife's on vacation, I just make poached eggs. Like if my kids aren't around, like if I'm alone, it's just like poached eggs.
+
+[34:01] And not even like, you know, maybe it's because my wife doesn't like poached eggs, but I like I'll sit and like put poached eggs. Weird. Post eggs toast is toast on sauerkraut, always. So you just eat poached eggs, toast and sauerkraut. That's it.
+
+[34:13] And weird. I don't know. I'm a weirdo, I'll forget about it. Okay. Okay.
+
+[34:16] Uh, especially for others. Uh, we started a small catering outfit. We have done in-home multi-course dinners as a hobby/slash side business, interpreting dishes from the books uh from books like uh the French Laundry, which by the way, that you know, people forget how like uh revolutionary the French laundry cookbook was back when it came out, the original French laundry cookbook, like in in English for America, yeah, the giant one. Yeah. Uh uh in English for uh people at home, like there were very f i in American English anyway, very few books prior to that that were literally uh what was going on in the recipes of uh, you know, at that time, probably the top kitchen in the entire uh country and not at all dumbed down.
+
+[34:58] Like you had to get the anchovies, you had to bone the anchovies, you had to soak the anchovies in milk. Then you had to, you know, rub the anchovies, you know what I mean? It's like every and it was uh all the steps. And so I think people tend to forget uh you know how kind of how groundbreaking that was. Anyway.
+
+[35:13] Alinea, uh, also excellent, interesting book, uh, published book, you know, Grant almost, I guess, self-publishing that or get or doing it himself and then getting it published. Right. I mean, I think he did a lot of not in the way that uh Mirabol did anyway, whatever. Monas Cuisine, everyone knows greatest cookbook achievement of all times. Uh, and others for kosher uh dinners uh who would otherwise uh diners who would never otherwise get the chance to try the kinds of foods found in those books in those restaurants.
+
+[35:38] We are still learning, isn't everyone, hopefully, and that's that's so true. If the the day you stop learning, hopefully you don't stop learning until you die. And hopefully you die only a long time from now. Okay. Uh, and love your show.
+
+[35:49] Both of us had questions answered last week. I'm now working during the day managing the kitchen of a different business while attending college at night, which brings me to my current list of questions. Neither of us has the time or money to attend culinary school. Well, I can to an extent teach myself to cook better by the very act of cooking more, making mistakes, and trying again. I know that I can never effectively run a busy restaurant kitchen.
+
+[36:10] Is that organization and efficiency taught mostly in school or on the job? What would you recommend I do to build these skills on my own? Well, it's very well, you can learn to cook on your own, uh, but it's very difficult to build the actual skills of working in a restaurant when you say on your own, literally on your own. Uh I mean, working in a restaurant can build those skills, or going to culinary can build those skills. I mean, I think one one of the one of the reasons to go to culinary school, and you know, uh Dave Chang, uh, you know, my my part my business partner is uh, you know, he's he's anti anti-evything now.
+
+[36:48] Dave Chang is mainly anti-the idea that a whole young generation of cooks goes to cooking school and uh I'm paraphrasing him now, but they go to cooking school and then they think that uh all of a sudden they're gonna become a celebrity chef and get rich and then not have to work the hours on the line. And that's not true. And somehow people think that cooking is uh is somehow glamorous when in fact it's it's grueling. Uh uh back me up on this, John. Certainly is.
+
+[37:13] Yeah. Uh so and this might be interesting for you as well as a professional to you know weigh in on this. Um but I think school can serve a function for someone who is a career changer who just wants who has the money, right, and just wants to jump in, and your goal isn't to be a line cook for five years and then do XY and G. Your goal is to be an owner sooner rather than later, and to never spend all that time on the line. Maybe going to cooking school is a is a good bet for you.
+
+[37:43] Or as a parent buying uh, you know, a younger kid a career. I see it as it can be a valuable uh val valuable thing that way. Uh now they a lot of the chefs that um I'm friends with who spend a lot of time saying that you don't need to go to culinary school. The interesting thing about them is that to a person they've all gone to culinary school. Uh in in the generation I'm talking about now, which is you know, uh 25 let's say 25 to 42, that age range.
+
+[38:10] Like most of these people who are really successful actually have gone to culinary school. I think in the generation just above them, you have a lot of success stories that haven't, who just came up through normal kind of an apprenticeship uh situation. Uh but really in that age range, most of the high flyers that I know of uh did go to culinary school. Um but uh you know that said, every cook on earth respects someone who just shows up in a kitchen and says, I will do whatever, I will work as hard as I can, all I want to do is work. I know nothing, you know everything.
+
+[38:41] Let me learn your way. If you do that, walk into a kitchen, very few people will turn you away. Some people might say, I don't have room for you now, but if you use those exact words, they'll say, I have a slot coming up in X amount of months. Uh especially if you come recommended from someone, like you can find someone that you will will vouch for you that you're a hard worker and you just show up, but you have to be willing to eat crap. I mean, really, not literally, but you know, figuratively, you know, you you have right, John?
+
+[39:08] I mean, this is how this works. Yeah. Long hours on your feet and uh takes endurance. Yeah, and you know, yeah, you know, those Brussels sprouts, after the first couple of cases, it's not fun anymore. Right?
+
+[39:22] And you still have to do them, right? I mean, and uh so anyway, so yes, you you know you can learn uh you can learn to be one of the world's greatest cooks uh, you know, on your own through reading, uh, and you know, but in terms of working in a in a restaurant, I think culinary school or actual working in a restaurant is uh, you know, kind of kind of necessary. It's a different skill. Cooking and and running a kitchen and a crew aren't necessarily the same skill. They're intertwined, but they're not the same skill.
+
+[39:52] I mean, I know plenty of people who are great cooks. Like, I don't want to run a kitchen, I can't run a kitchen. Do you know what I mean? I mean, I'm I'm I think I'm a good cook. Uh I don't think I'm uh necessarily be great at running a kitchen.
+
+[40:01] You know what I mean? Uh okay. Uh second question for you or any chefs who might be listening or in fact sitting sitting with us right now. Uh have you or would you think what I said before makes sense? Okay.
+
+[40:12] Uh have you or anyone you know ever worked in a kitchen that wasn't up to your own personal standards but felt stuck there due to a lack of better uh options? As an example, I work somewhere that advertised fresh fish and pasta, but sold four-day old fish and cooked their pasta in lukewarm water. How does one put up with that kind of frustration and is it a common occurrence? Yeah, people are bad. Cooks are bad.
+
+[40:34] Most most people are bad at what they do. The better you get at whatever you do in life, whatever you do in life, I don't care what it is, whether you're scientist, writer, jockey, whatever. Like it turns out that most people, no matter what they choose to do at a profession, are bad at it because they don't care. It's just because they don't care. And so there's a lot of people who are very bad, uh very bad cooks and they they do very bad things to the food or just not as good at things to the food.
+
+[41:01] So I don't know how to deal with that frustration. If the person, if you're learning something valuable, then learn what's valuable and don't get poisoned by the other bad things that are going on, be my suggestion. If it's so bad that you feel that you that you can't in good conscience uh serve the food that you're working on to people you have to leave. What do you think, John? I agree with that.
+
+[41:21] Yeah. I mean, it's tough, right? I mean, a lot of bad cooking goes on, a lot of things that you disagree with. You gotta be true to yourself and your own standards. And if the restaurant doesn't meet it, it's time to move on.
+
+[41:32] Right. If you're no longer proud of what you're working on, you have to go. You know what I mean? So, I mean, there's a fine line, and I think what I'm reading into what you're saying is is that you maybe you made a commitment to uh a place or uh to a person or to yourself that you were gonna hold on to a job for a particular length of time. Uh and that's also important.
+
+[41:51] It's important to hold to those commitments uh in in in life and to people that you're working with so that you can prove that you can have stick tutorness and not be flighty. So it can be a difficult decision to make. So uh it's not something to to quit a job isn't necessarily to be taken lightly. Uh especially in the in this business, someone who flits around a lot is not seen as being reliable necessary uh, you know, if they know your complete work history and if you're moving around. If you have a different job every every you know every month, people are going to well, why can't why don't why don't you want to stay in one place?
+
+[42:20] What's going on here? You know what I mean? The exception being some of the very, very high end restaurants that nowadays it's popular for people to go around to the very high end restaurants and collect stodges in them so that they can say that they've worked in them. And that's a separate thing and I think everyone knows and kind of respects what's going on there. But if you're not holding down uh um the same job for more than a month in a row, people are going to start asking you why.
+
+[42:40] Uh and so you have to weigh in your heart whether or not uh the commitment you made either to that restaurant or to yourself is uh you know weigh it against the fact that you're not proud of what you're putting out there. Uh and if you're not proud of what you're putting out there figure out a way to get out of it as fast and as cleanly as possible I think. But you should always be proud of what you're working on or you know because all you have is your output. You know all you have is is what you do and and trying to do the best job that you can do at all times. That's all you have.
+
+[43:10] What else is there? Okay. Finally, and thanks for letting me take up so much of your time is there any good way to keep leftover fried chicken crispy assuming fried temperatures are all spot on and as much oil as possible is removed post-fry. Would silica packs uh work to absorb excess moisture or does the coating become soggy not due to moisture in the air but from oil seeping out of the meat back into the crust uh and thanks uh for being a great resource and for your time okay uh it's not the oil it's uh moisture uh so there's a number of things first of all the question is when you say keeping fried chicken I'm assuming that you don't mean putting fried chicken in the fridge and then taking the fried chicken out later. I'm assuming hot holding fried chicken after frying for service in a catering environment.
+
+[43:53] That's what I'm that's what I'm taking it, because there is no way that I know of to uh short of under frying and then re-frying for service a cold thing, and it's still never a hundred percent. You know what I'm saying? Uh I'm I'm gonna assume that you don't mean a reheat off of something it's done, right? So that's a separate question, and we could talk about that later if you write back, and that's what you're interested in. Hot holding fried chicken, uh, your enemy isn't oil.
+
+[44:18] I mean, initially your enemy is oil, but the the way the oil uh uptake works in in frying is this. Uh you fry something, uh, and the oil is primarily on the outside, although there is some seepage into the crust, uh, even initially, and that seepage is related to a number of things. The temperature of your frying, the temperature of the batter when it went in, uh, how porous the batter is, and what the batter is made of, and whether you have any barriers in there like methyl cell, but no one hardly ever does, or crisp coat or some other starch that anyway, there's a number of factors. But uh most of the oil that's absorbed by the product is actually absorbed when you pull it out. And what happens is is that uh as you're frying, you're seeing boiling water, and the boiling water is rushing out, forming the steam and the violent bubbling that you see in frying, which is why a high temperature is important, so that you're constantly having boiling happen during the thing.
+
+[45:03] Uh that boiling out of water forms uh voids, steam and air pockets in your crust and in the surface of your food, right? And as uh the food cools down, oil is absorbed into those voids. As the steam uh vapor uh contracts, turns back to moisture, and there's these voids, the oil is absorbed in. So your opportunity to get oil off the surface of the food is only during the portion where the food is coming right out of the oil and when it's hot, which is why good fry practice is to pull the baskets out of the fryer, let them drip just so you don't spray oil everywhere, and then give it those violent couple of clack, clack, clack, or not violent, you don't want to hurt the product, but whatever the product can withstand, you give it some some some pan. I'm doing that saute motion, you know, that like twit that flip flipping motion, not flipping, it's hard for me to describe, but you you shake the basket a bit and you tilt the basket up on its corner so that all the grease comes out and all drips off the thing in the basket.
+
+[46:00] Yeah, you know, get it sometimes you can get it in the air, it depends on how fragile the product is, and get that oil off right away because as soon as it starts cooling down, you've lost your opportunity. So uh that's where oil absorption works in. But crust sogginess isn't due greasiness is due to having excess grease in the in the battery and as it cools, you'll notice the greasiness becomes more apparent, right? It's not that they're right there that the crust is changing, it's that greasiness becomes more apparent as it cools. Especially when things get actually cold and you've used a hydrogenated fat, a solid fat, you'll get greasy mouthfeel in what you're in what you're eating.
+
+[46:36] This is necessary for foods like donuts. So a hot donut fried in regular oil is gonna taste good because all hot donuts taste good. All hot fried things taste good. Even bad hot fried things taste okay when they're hot. But as it cools, uh a donut fried in liquid fat will taste greasy, whereas a donut fried in hydrogenated fat will taste like a donut, because it's supposed to be a little solid like that.
+
+[46:57] Whereas a potato chip fried in a solid fat will taste like kind of slick waxy uh in a bad way if you if you fry it in uh and it cools down, right? Which is why they had problems with OLESTRE because in order to get olestra to not run through your system and out onto your underwear without any intervention, they had to use hydrogenated olestra on potato chips. This is a wow, by the way, for those of you that don't remember OLEST. And when they did that, they altered the mouthfeel of the potato chips. That was the reason people could taste the difference in Olestra potato chips, not because olestra itself had a bad taste.
+
+[47:29] So back to your problem. So when something cools down or is held for a long time, oil can become a problem that way. Also, it's easier to detect flawed oil when the stuff starts cooling down a little bit or when it's been sitting around. The best test for flawed oil, and that when you're frying, is to always keep a cube of bread near where you're working and periodically fry a piece of plain white, like airy, non-crusty bread, flavorless bread in the oil. Why?
+
+[47:57] Because the bread's going to cool off fast, you can eat it fast, bread's going to absorb a boatload of oil, and you will be tasting primarily the state of your oil at any given time. So you you should always, like when you're using a fryer or anything, and you have any questions, uh dipping your finger and tasting the oil if it's cold is fine, but it a really good test is frying a piece of bread in it. Okay, now, uh so the real enemy to a crust on hot on hot holding is moisture migration from the food into the crust. Especially if you're packing things closely together. Uh you're gonna basically re-steam the crust, the crust is gonna lose its crispiness, and that's where you're gonna get a lot of your losses.
+
+[48:34] If you want to get around that, especially in a catering environment, I recommend you move to a piece of technology called a CVAP oven. Uh, even though all of my friends at CVAP have since moved on to other things because uh Winston, the owner of the company, who's the guy who was friends with Colonel Sanders and invented the pressure fryer uh and invented the hot holder for Kentucky fried chicken. Literally, this is a piece of equipment, the CVAP oven and the CVAP holding oven that was invented for your problem to keep fried chicken crispy. Uh what it does is it has a Bane Marie in the bottom of it that supplies a certain amount of moisture, and then it has a heating element in the cavity. And by adjusting the temperature differential between the heating element in the cavity and the Bane Marie, they can adjust the humidity of the oven and they can uh what they say is they adjust the I'm making quote marks with my fingers, the crispiness level of the food.
+
+[49:23] Uh and uh although it sounds hokey and to reading his documents online, it does sound hokey. Crap works. I've seen it many times. I've seen them hold Kentucky fried chicken in it for hours on end without uh bringing the inside horribly overcooked and um without losing the surface of it. I've seen them hold uh crispy fried tortilla chips in it just as a demo uh to prove that they could do it.
+
+[49:43] So uh CVAP oven is your way to go on that. Uh I don't know if their patents have run out, uh otherwise I would think of a way to hack one on my own, but they're relatively inexpensive compared to something like a combi oven. Anyway, uh I hope that's helpful, and uh they're gonna kick me off here. But on the way out, I want to say that uh the guys that by the way, you you uh UC USC, right? Use the Mary of Southern California, they're the ones that you always make wisecracks about.
+
+[50:05] Well, someone there and at UCLA, they're developing a pill, uh, and you can look this up online that you can take it, uh, and it's a really new, interesting uh combination of nanotechnology and enzymes where they're packaging multiple enzymes in like a little nanoparticle that you swallow, and it wipes out the alcohol. So it's literally a buzzkill pill. So you can go out drinking, and then before you get in your car, you can pop this buzzkill pill, and it just it's like having like five livers. Anyway, I'm uh I can't wait. It's gonna make it awesome.
+
+[50:36] Cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on heritage radio network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage Underscore Radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritageradio network.org.
+
+[51:06] Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by the International Culinary Center. Offering courses that range from classic French techniques in culinary, pastry, and bread baking to Italian studies to management. From culinary technology to food writing, from cake making to wine tasting. For more information, visit International Culinary Center.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn.
+
+[0:23] If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Cooking issues! Cooking issues! Hello, and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold your host of Cookie Issues coming to you live on the Heritage Radio Network in the back of Roberta's Peter here in Bushwick Brooklyn.
+
+[1:15] How are you doing, Nastasha? Great. Yeah, doing well. Jack and Joe over there. I actually punched myself in the head during the intro.
+
+[1:22] Yes, I'm a little stunned. Wow. Yeah. I was just gonna say, after two cups of coffee, that intro song is even crazier. Oh, you only you're only a two-cup in the morning, man?
+
+[1:30] I'm only two, yeah. Jesus And you call yourself a New York. See, that's what's laid-back life here in uh in Brooklyn only requires two cups of coffee. You know, Nastasha and I, you know, being residents of the island of Manhattan, we require three. Uh uh.
+
+[1:45] So uh by by the way, speaking of uh of Joel, is uh is he coming in next week or what? Yeah, man, uh he is. It's gonna be a blast. So next week we're gonna have live performance of the cooking issues song. Is that true or false?
+
+[1:58] That is true. You know, why don't I re why don't I read the email he sent us? Alright, do that. Let's see. So greetings, Joe and everyone else.
+
+[2:08] I would like to formally commit to appear live on your program entitled Issues with Cooking on Tuesday, March 5th as a guest musician. My assistant will submit my rider to you soon. It includes a variety of single malt scotches and dried figs. As a plus, you'll be graced with the presence of my wife. I think her and Nastasia will get along nicely due to their joint hatred of most things in existence and obsession with shopping for shoes online.
+
+[2:30] Oh yeah! And much like Nastasia's admitted during last week's episode, my wife also dislikes my thrashabout ways of the long running musical introduction, cooking intro, cooking issues intro, and she would much prefer if I either shut up or play something nice. I look forward to seeing the inside walls of your famous shipping container. Good day to you and enjoy the meats of Heritage Breed. Nice.
+
+[2:50] Nice exciting, huh? Yes. Speaking of the meats of Heritage Breeds, we also have uh we have a lot of non cooking related stuff they have beginning this time, huh? Yeah, yeah. Uh we have a contest, contest contest.
+
+[3:01] Become a household member of Heritage Radio Network for $120 to get a free t shirt and the chance to have lunch with Dave and the Cooking Issues team. Visit Heritage Radio Network dot org and click donate. Contest ends March 1st. Is that true? That is true.
+
+[3:16] Yeah. That's Friday. That's all true. So it's not a long time. No, this is like a a last minute rush to to close out February.
+
+[3:24] Hell, you know, I might I might I might enter the contest to get a chance to eat lunch with myself. It's a pretty good spot to be in. Yeah, and I was like, I would be there. Oh, but speaking of which, we have uh is this your cookbook here, uh Jack? The Foothills Cuisine of Blackberry Farm?
+
+[3:39] Uh it's not mine, but it's the stations. Because there's a there's a hint on the cover, which is it's almost ramp season, people. It's almost ramp season. Everyone knows Nastashia loves ramps. I hate them.
+
+[3:50] You know why she hates ramps? It's not because they're not delicious, because they are. It's just because everyone else likes them. That's why she hates them. It's true.
+
+[3:58] Yeah. Nice. All right. A little bit I like to have a little bit of Anastasia lore in each uh in each episode. You know what I mean?
+
+[4:06] Lore. Lore. Lore. Okay. Uh calling questions to 7184972128.
+
+[4:11] That's 7184972128. Have this question in from Mark Barter about wondra flower. Big hi to Nastasha, Jack, Joe, and Dave. 116 episodes and still going strong. That's true.
+
+[4:22] Well, kind of. Uh okay, Dave. Uh, you managed to shed some light on the enigmatic oil solidifying Katamaro Tenpuro. Not enough light. I mean, I wish I could actually get the product here in the United States of America.
+
+[4:33] Anyway, now I've got a new mystery for you. Can you enlighten the dear listeners uh on the secrets of Wondra? Uh, you know, but okay, well, I'll read the whole question. I'll try to uh maybe I should try to not have tangents while I'm while the thing's going on. You think so?
+
+[4:45] I don't know. I can't. I just can't, I can't. Too uh I can't do it. Anyway.
+
+[4:48] Uh I understand why Wonder is great for making gravies, but why is it supposed to be so good as a fry coating or for making pie pastry? If it's described as a pre-gelatinized or instant wheat flour, does that mean that it is simply a retrograded starch? Or is it the very opposite a prograded starch? I like pro, not pro-grade, but like pro professionally graded. Anyway, uh because it is a mechanically modified starch rather than a chemically modified starch, could I realistically make my own wondra by taking a low protein cake flour and hydrating, uh heating it, uh to which temp uh to what temperature, uh, Shirley, you have a uh, you know, he's basically saying I have a uh visal I can never pronounce it, visco amilligraph, and I don't have one.
+
+[5:24] Anyway, uh uh drying it after you cook it and pulverizing it, uh is diastatic malt flour critical component. And finally, I haven't been able to find a retail equivalent to wondra here in Australia. Should I look instead for an Asian African Middle Eastern equivalent? Until next time, Mark Butter. Okay.
+
+[5:40] So for those of you that uh aren't hip to the wondra, uh what wondra is is a it's a wheat flour, so you gluten folks can't can't mean anti-gluten folks can't use it like Piper. Uh that's so weird. Anyway, uh what it is is it's it's two things. It's pre-gelatinized, meaning it's already been cooked, right? But it hasn't just been milled down to a powder.
+
+[6:03] So you can't just use a pre-milled uh uh powder, it's also agglomerated, right? So the two key things about wondra is that it is pre-gelatinized and agglomerated. Now I want you to keep that in your head because we have a caller and I'm gonna take the college question and then come back to Wondra. Collar, you're on the air. Hey, I've got a question about country hams.
+
+[6:23] Oh, I love questions about country hams. Excellent. So I know you're a big fan of country hams uncooked. Yep. And I was lucky enough to be in Louville a week or two ago and picked up a ham at Finchville Farms on my way back.
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+[6:39] Uh first of all, great place. Uh visited uh them uh great, great place, good ham. I'm hoping. Yeah. It's hanging in my basement and with just two people in the house, a big ham is gonna last a long time.
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+[6:53] Yes. So there's a lot of stuff I want to do with it. I want to cook some of it, I want to make broth with some of it, I want to eat some of it raw. My question is, how do I go about taking this large ham and using the different pieces, making different pieces and using them for different things? Right.
+
+[7:12] Okay. So with a with a country ham, and by by the way, uh, even though a Kentucky ham is a Kentucky ham, they're extensions of the culture from Virginia ham. And in fact, a lot of the people who uh whose families um are very old ham curers in places like Kentucky and Tennessee are actually direct uh transplants from um from Virginia. So the the culture of Virginia ham uh stretches uh across and is you know country hams as as we know them which means that this current phrase I'm about to give to you applies to Kentucky hams as well as to Virginia hams. But the old joke goes that uh the definition of forever is two people and a country ham because it lasts so long and you can use it for such a long time that it almost never never goes away.
+
+[7:56] I haven't found that to be the case because uh because I eat so much of it whenever I have one in the house. The first thing you want to make sure is um that you're keeping it properly so uh in the old days um Morris Berger who's uh from Burgers uh smokehouse in Missouri uh you know what they used to do back in but in the days before refrigeration was they would cut uh slices of the uh of the ham out and then wipe lard over the cut surfaces so they wouldn't lose too much moisture uh and they would hang them from thin um from thin like wires in their in their uh in their shed uh to stop uh vermin from being able to get down the uh like a thick rope to get it so that's how they used to do it in the old days um but I mean typically what people do when they have a country ham nowadays is they'll cut the um they'll cut the cushion which is the so if you look at a country ham, right? If you look at the face, the face of it's the the the part that was actually attached to the pig that's not skin. That part is typically very, very dry. Uh and so, unlike a prosciutto uh, which is designed to have a fairly even um salt and dryness level throughout the entire thing of the meat.
+
+[9:03] In American country ham, typically the face is going to be very dry. On the reverse side of the face, you'll have the cushion, and the cushion is the kind of thick muscly part. And because of the way country hams are hung in the U.S., uh they tend to be a lot um thicker and therefore a lot less dry uh than uh the rest. So, what a lot of people will do is remove the cushion, right, uh off of the off of the ham and then slice that one separately for more of your presentation pieces you're eating, uh you're eating it uh as a crude o situation, uh, and then you will take the um the face section and use it for uh stocks and whatnot. I tend to do very, very little uh cooking of it because I mean it just gets so s it gets so tough and salty when you cook it, but it's amazing, like sliced and put over over eggs, you know, and then just letting a little bit of heat hit it, or as a substitute for things on pizza thrown in at the end of the of the cook time, usually on the pizza to just sizzle it up a little bit.
+
+[10:03] Um I what I used to do, I had a meat slicer, so what I would do is I would bone the thing out whole and then just slice it and enjoy all the all the different portions. But at home, it's very difficult to bone out uh a country ham. So but the way to do it is to take it and to locate where the kind of uh the the joint is in there, right? Saw through that with a hacksaw, if you have a meatsaw, that's good. Saw through it with the hacksaw.
+
+[10:27] The back side of it has some meat that can be sliced once you get that little uh piece out, but there's less and less meat as you get towards the edge of that bone. I would trim off uh some of the very outside fat. You want to keep the majority of the fat there, but the skin itself sometimes can have a little bit of a funky flavor, and sometimes you can have little areas of taint and uncured stuff running down the bone sections of it. So you want to remove any parts that you don't like, and then um the parts in the tail you can use for trim, they can be added to ground hamburger meat, anything like that, or stocks and soups. The face also, because it's so dry, stock soups, or like grated sometimes if you really dry it out, and then the cushion for your more uh you know fancy applications.
+
+[11:05] Once you saw through the ham at that joint, then you can um then you can either cut the cushion off whole or take a knife and and debone it. It just takes a while. And be careful not to the only time I've ever broken a knife in my entire life of cooking is on an American country ham. Okay, you you so you don't uh you say you don't uh cook them, but they recommend if you're going to soaking it. Yeah, that's true.
+
+[11:32] I mean, it's just if you're gonna cook it, the salt level is too high. So you need to get some of the salt out of it and equalize the salt content, especially in the face. So, you know, my grand what my grandma used to do in Virginia was uh she would throw it in a in a pot of water, let it get all you know, they she would soak it in a couple of changes of water, almost like you would do like uh bacalau, you know, or or or baccala, depending on where you're from. Uh, it's not necessary if you're going to if if you're not going to cook it. If like the issue with the cooking also is the the recommendations on an American country ham because of USDA guidelines.
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+[12:07] Here's what's perverse. American country hams are a ready-to-eat product. You do not need to cook them. Uh, however, in terms of safety. Uh however, like our traditions come from uh um England on this, and in England, hams are traditionally uh cooked, even though our hams are more akin to the hams that you would get in in terms of you know, in terms of Spain and and uh parts of France and Italy, uh in terms of their actual dryness and their uh their usefulness in that way.
+
+[12:33] And so we tend to cook them even though they don't need to be cooked, and in the old days, the way you would cook them is you might soak it for a little while in water, and then you'd stick it in a giant lard can with water, bring the temperature up, and then just let it ride overnight. You wouldn't be and so the actual inside of the ham wouldn't be cooked to that high of a temperature because it doesn't actually need cooking. They're just softening it and cooking it a little bit. You see what I'm saying? So the recommendations that are on the uh packages for country ham, because they're based on USDA cooking of meats are absurdly high.
+
+[13:02] It is not possible to make a country ham that tastes good following the recommendations that are on the package. Uh the other problem is is that we're used to eating ham in general sliced extremely thickly, and you don't want a piece of country ham sliced that thick. So if you are going to cook a ham, and it and cooked hams are good on things like biscuits or fried and put on eggs, you want to slice it extremely, extremely thinly. And and and country ham is not meant to be you know your main source of calories at a meal. Country ham is meant to almost be a seasoning, it's a seasoning meat.
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+[13:31] Do you see what I'm saying? Yep. Good. All right, good. Well, thanks so much for calling in, and I always love any sort of country ham questions.
+
+[13:38] Thanks for your answer. Thank you. We have another caller, caller, you're on the air. Hey, we are here. Nice.
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+[13:44] What's up? So uh hi, we're we're Tom and Tonek in Chicago. Uh thanks for taking the call. Um so we have a whole pig head split lengthwise that we want to serve whole. And I have two questions.
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+[13:54] First of all, we want to do it in the circulator. I want to know the best way to uh have a whole pig's head in the circulator. And second of all, I want to smoke half of it, and I want to know how the smoker and the circulator play together. Okay, so how big is the pig's head? Um, it's like an adult pig head.
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+[14:11] Wow, so so big. Can you can't do you have a vacuum machine capable of uh bagging it? I have access to one. Okay. Yeah, so I mean, uh the two schools of of thought about this.
+
+[14:22] If you want it to taste if you bag it and cook it in a circulator, the meat's gonna hold together nicer, which is going to make it easier to do uh like a whole a whole prep. The problem is when you cook it in a circulator that way and you pull it out, uh usually the skin is gonna get a little bit damaged, and so you're gonna have assuming you're gonna crisp up one or both sides of it and have the the skin side be crispy, right? Or no? Yeah, yeah. That is our plan.
+
+[14:49] Yeah, so the the the issue on a lot of things like pig skin is it gets extremely delicate during the cook process. And so what you're gonna be doing is a two-part cook, right? Where you're gonna be uh cooking and gelatinizing the skin and the meat in a low temp cook, and then you're gonna be doing a crisp off process. And you just have to be careful that you don't damage the surface of the skin in the in the in the process. I mean, it's why you might want to think of doing uh instead of a circulator, if you have access to a combi, you might want to think about doing a combi.
+
+[15:18] Uh or but you know, circulator will work fine. You just have to be careful, careful with the skin. As long as you can bag it, you should be alright. The vacuum level is not gonna hurt uh meat like in in a p in a in a pig head. I've never done a pig, I've never done a head with the bones in it, so I'm not sure you're gonna draw some of the stuff out of the of the bones, uh, and I don't know how much void space there is, i.e.
+
+[15:39] how much bag problems you're gonna have around things like the teeth, which means you're gonna have to put oil into it to take up any spaces that are in the teeth section. Is this making sense or no? This is making perfect sense. Yeah. Uh the only other thing that you have to think about now is whether you want it to be more of a traditional low temp cook or whether you want it to taste more poached, a la what you would get in a head cheese, right?
+
+[16:01] And so if you want it to taste more poached, then you're gonna have to put some stock in with it instead of oil. It's a this is a totally uh a question if you do it that way, it won't hold together as well as if you do it in uh oil, which is essentially what I would think of as a as a dry cooking technique, even though it's in a bag underwater, right? I feel like the poached head cheese thing is the opposite of what I'm going for here. Okay, so then no liquid in the bag, just oil, and then you'll get more of a dry cook thing. I would unbag the pig's head when it's when it's hot.
+
+[16:30] Uh and uh although remember when it's hot, the skin's most delicate, right? Because when you take a pig skin and you cook it, it's extremely delicate because it renders out the gelatin. Then when it gets cold, then it's it's it's fine again. You can work with it because the gelatin resets. So if you the reason to unbag it hot is to flash off some of the liquid off off the surface of it so that it's gonna be able to pick up a smoke better, right?
+
+[16:52] But if if you're gonna have a long time between when you're gonna cook it and and uh and when you're gonna finish it, then you could cool the whole thing down gently, unbag it, uh, and then I would I would like kind of bring it up to temp blow the excess moisture off the surface if you can, in like a in like a low convection uh, you know, with the door open so that the moisture leaves the the the skin section, and then you're gonna need to do either a roast off or the after you blow the moisture off of it, uh put it in the in your smoker, smoke it up. It should take a smoke fine after after it's been cooked, so long as it's not wet on the surface. Okay, so in general, this is like one of my big questions listening to you for years is so if I'm gonna do it, if I'm gonna do a cut of meat in the circulator and in the smoker, I want to circulate first, dry it off, and then put it in the smoker. Huh. I mean, that's just the way I would approach it, but now that you say it, I see no reason why you can't smoke it and then throw it into the bag.
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+[17:44] I mean, it seems like it would work either way. I mean, uh the the issue is I mean, I presumably you have a cold smoker, right? Yep. Yeah, I mean the only advantage I can see of smoking it afterwards is you have no uh there's no safety issues involved because you've already done the cook the kill step. Um and if you were gonna smoke it hot, then I mean it depends on how long you're gonna smoke it.
+
+[18:06] If you're gonna smoke it only for a little while, pick up a little bit of flavor, you're not gonna get like a huge cook through on it, it's not gonna be a problem. But you know, on the other hand, if you're looking for the opposite of a poached flavor, you're gonna want to evacuate some of that moisture off of the surface of the meat anyway, in which case I think it might be advantageous to do the the drying after it's been a little bit of drying after it's been cooked along with a smoke process. You know what I mean? And then and so you're gonna smoke it then crisp it? Oh, we lost him.
+
+[18:34] No, you didn't. We're still here. Oh, okay. You're gonna smoke it and then crisp it or no? Yeah, I think that's the plan.
+
+[18:39] Yeah, I mean, uh you look, you could do it either way, and I'm also assuming that you're gonna do a pig's head at a relatively elevated temperature compared to normal low temperature cooking. Uh yeah. Yeah. Well, now how high would you do a pig set at? Well, it depends.
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+[18:53] I mean, so like for instance, uh, it depends on how traditional you want it to taste. Do you know what I'm saying? So if you want it to taste more like uh like a confie, uh, I would do it at traditional confit temperature. When I do duck, for instance, uh, I do duck legs at traditional temperatures just in a bag so that I won't require an uh a lot of extra fat and it won't overcook and it won't dry out. Um so you know, I do duck legs all the way up at, you know, eighty, eighty-two in that range.
+
+[19:20] You know what I mean? Like uh a traditional range, simmering ranges. Uh whereas if you want it to taste uh a lot if you want an entirely different result, then you're gonna go in the much lower range in the mid-sixties, let's say, but it's gonna be a different result from what people would normally expect from a pig's head. And it's gonna take a long time for the skin to totally render to gelatin at those uh low, low temperatures. Do you know what I'm saying?
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+[19:44] I know exactly what you're saying. That's really helpful. Thank you. Hey, no problem. Thank you.
+
+[19:47] Hey, it uh send us a Twitter or give a call and tell us how it worked out. I will try to do that. Thank you very much. Well, thank you. Oh, we have another colour.
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+[19:54] You know what I eat before I take a call? You know what we used to eat all the time? Uh splits lamb's head. Like roasted in the oven. Good stuff.
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+[20:00] Yeah. Capuzzle. Anyway, caller, you're on the air. Hey, Daniel from uh Austin, Texas. I recently bought a uh rotovap, uh Beauti, I think R110.
+
+[20:11] Yep. And uh I got a dry vacuum uh that's coming via eBay, but I don't have a controller, and uh I want to kind of keep my costs down and I don't know. I recently got modernist cuisine, but they don't really give any guidance as where to get a vacuum controller or what to look for. I I know I want something digital, but I really just don't know where to start. Okay, so the vacuum controller that you're I mean the vacuum pump you're getting is it is an Edwards BOC dry vac or just like a a Welsh dry vac?
+
+[20:36] Is it piston? What what kind of pump is it? It's a piston. Okay. So uh how good are you at electronics?
+
+[20:44] Uh I'm I'm okay at it. Um I mean I I have a BS in chemistry. I took some electronics courses. I kind of mess around with stuff. All right, because they the oh yeah, there's there's some good news and some bad news here.
+
+[20:56] So by by the way, for people we're talking about is a rotary evaporator is a vacuum distillation uh, you know, uh piece of equipment. It's used in chemistry labs uh and increasingly in kitchens, and the premise is is that by uh doing your distillation at uh under a vacuum you can reduce the temperature and also reduce any possibility of oxidation of the product. So it allows you to do very gentle uh distillations with very clean flavors of things like herbs. Okay. Uh now the the good news is well, is this for a restaurant or for your for home?
+
+[21:27] It's for home. Okay. So the good news is is that you can allow it to be a little bit fidgety, right, if you're doing it at home, especially at the get-go. Uh bad news is vacuum controller, so you you we can get this done. That's not a problem.
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+[21:42] The bad news is actual built vacuum controllers are ridiculously expensive. That's from my experience, yeah, I'm looking them on a UBS. Yeah, they're they're crazy. The the piston pump that you're getting is what, like the Welch, like the Wobble trip? Wait a second.
+
+[21:57] I uh it's uh I'm gonna have it in front of me. It's a Pfeiffer vacuum MVP uh dry pump. Uh and I don't really know much more about it since it hasn't come in the mail yet, frankly. Right, okay. So here is it the the easiest, cheapest way to get started is so so any leak in a vacuum system in a rotary evaporator that happens prior to uh leaving the condenser unit is completely detrimental to flavor, kills your flavor.
+
+[22:23] But uh a bleed in the vacuum system in between the condenser and the vacuum pump is a fine way to regulate your vacuum pressure at the get-go. And for years, before I had a vacuum controller, I just used a needle valve, like a very small, you know, eighth-inch NPT, which is national pipe taper, uh needle valve that I put onto a uh T off of my vacuum line, and I just had my vacuum pump going great guns the entire time, and I would bleed a small amount of air into the system to regulate the pressure, right? And so as a first approximation, the first test, right, then that'll get you off the ground running and figuring out distillation and your rotor vap and all of that stuff for you know under 20 bucks, right? Now the next level above and you should be constantly searching vacuum controllers on eBay, right? Yeah.
+
+[23:12] That's what I've been doing. The next level above that is you can get yourself a uh vacuum gauge. And if you get a vacuum gauge, uh then you can at least tell where your a digital vacuum gauge, you can at least tell where your system is sitting at any one point in time. Okay. The next level above that is you could build your own controller, uh, you know, use the if you go to Aubur instruments, they have a lot of the parts to do this for reading vacuum, and they can be tweaked out in um because that was that was something I was wondering about.
+
+[23:42] Is it just uh gonna be a gauge plus a feedback loop essentially? Yeah. Well, there's there's a couple different ways to do this, right? If you need to if you're gonna buy, so you have a dry pump, which means it doesn't have any oil. If you have an oil-based pump, the the control logic is a little more difficult because you have to worry about switching an oil-based pump off and on, because if you switch an oil-based pump off and on without uh you know, just keep doing it, you have possibility of backstreaming oil into your system.
+
+[24:06] But because you have a dry pump, that's not an issue. So you you can put a uh you can just put a valve, like you know, like a solenoid valve there that's rated for vacuum, uh, and then uh, you know, a um uh a vacuum sensor and just put it on a loop and just ha have it go. The problem is is that the really expensive nice vacuum pumps uh and controllers, they have uh the the motors are controlled like pulse by pulse, they're pulse controlled. And so they can actually slow the motor down towards the end of the vacuum cycle rather than just you know going on and off with a set number of millibars of hysteresis, right? Um you know, so that's you know, so that's what the nicer vacuum control gets gets you.
+
+[24:49] The really nice vacuum control bases it on uh the um the really that no one has because it's only in the bigger systems is you here's the secret is that you want to know what the vacuum level is because it's telling you what the actual boiling point is. The the boiling point of your water the the sorry, the set point of your water bath and a roto vap really has only a marginal amount to do with what the temperature of your product is. In the same way that when you put uh a flame underneath a pot of water, the flame doesn't have a direct uh impact, the flame temperature doesn't have a direct impact on what the water temperature is because it's not going to go above a hundred, right? Celsius. So uh your water bath temperature is not an adequate uh indicator.
+
+[25:27] Uh the only thing that's adequate is the vapor temperature, right? And so you could develop a control. I would put a vacuum gauge on it, but if you really want to be uh you know, kind of you know ahead of the curve for most people, is I would uh put a uh thermocouple gauge in your in your uh condenser and measure the the measure when the temperature knee happens between the condensing and non-condensing condensing section and run your vacuum that way. Oh, so that instead of looking at the vapor line on the condenser, have something that detects it automatically and turn and slows the vacuum down to reduce the vapor line? Is that so when you yeah, so so I would definitely start with a needle valve to get a handle on the how uh distillation works, and then uh but if you if you know if if you're used to rotor vaps at all, when you put your hand again your back of the your hand against the condenser and you go up and down the condenser, you can feel where it goes from warm to cold, right?
+
+[26:19] And that's where you're and and you can visually see it on as a condensation line. But you could just measure the temperature between uh the the vapor above the condensation line and below it, and you'll see a sharp break. And so if you just control the vacuum to put that break exactly where you want it on the condenser, you can keep it at saturation for all day long, and you don't really care what the vacuum pressure is, so long as it's not wildly high or wildly low. So I would also have a gauge so that you know where you are. Yeah, that's genius.
+
+[26:45] Uh does the thermocouple have to be it can be outside the condenser, I would assume. Uh maybe the condenser without breaking it is what I'm worried about. Yeah. I mean, try try it, because it's very simple to try it that way. So try it external to it and see whether you can get an accurate enough result, and if not, then try to figure out a way to put it on the inside.
+
+[27:05] Okay. Is it is it worth buying a vacuum controller then? Do you think? Do you think I should vamp up with these solutions? I mean, look, I love having a vacuum controller, but it's also made me lazy so that I haven't built it the way I want it, which is temperature control the way I'm telling you.
+
+[27:20] So yeah. Oh, one last thing. Uh, if you don't have plastic coated glass, uh then I would recommend always wearing safety goggles on that thing because it can be uh it could be an eye hazard if it implodes or wrapping it in electrical tape. Okay. I I had one other question.
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+[27:38] I'm having some problems with the bath that they sent me. Uh it occurred to me that I could just use my sous vide as the water bath. Do you think there's gonna be any problem with that? It's not a problem, it's just messier. You know what I mean?
+
+[27:48] Like it's just like using uh a regular uh a regular circulator. I mean, I've done it in a pinch, it's just really messy, and the circulator head doesn't really fit nicely with with the thing. So the water bath ends up being a convenient way to do it. You know what I'm saying? Uh because it's built for it.
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+[28:03] But if you're having problems with the water bath, there's nothing to stop you from starting by using a circulator. I have done it. Okay. All right. Well, that was very helpful.
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+[28:11] I appreciate it. All right, let's know how it works. Alright, and let's go to our first commercial break. The International Culinary Center is a proud sponsor of the Heritage Radio Network.org. The ICC with locations in New York and California, provide cutting edge education to future chefs, restaurateurs, and wine professionals.
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+[29:09] We're proud to claim Dan Barber, Bobby Flay, and David Chang among our honored alumni. This is Dorothy Cann Hamilton from Chef's Story. Check out our ICC website at International Culinary Center.com. ICC, a supporter of the show, but no longer of me. Boom!
+
+[29:26] What up, Dark? Boom! Boom. Okay, so listen, I have not forgotten you. I have not forgotten you, um, Mark.
+
+[29:34] We're talking about wonder wondra flower. Okay, so uh if you go back to the uh beginning section of the show, so wondra uh is two main things. It is both pre-gelatinized, meaning it's been cooked, and and then wondra is cooked in a moist environment because trying to cook out a flour uh in a non-uh moist environment doesn't work the same way. It doesn't do the same stuff. So it's cooked in a moist environment to gelatinize or functionalize whatever you want to call it.
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+[29:59] Uh gelatinize the starch. And then it is milled and then agglomerated. And what agglomeration is it means that if you look at Wondra, you can see it. It looks porous. It looks like I'm trying to think of what it looks like.
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+[30:12] It looks like it looks like little like mini pumice stone tiny rocks. And what are the benefits of agglomeration? Okay. Well, so the benefits of uh pre-gelatinizing is it will go it will go into solution in a cold liquid, right? So because it goes into solution in a cold liquid, uh, it doesn't require uh a lot of heat and moisture together to become functional, which is why in low moisture things like uh pie crusts or like in cakes, it um it can functionalize very quickly.
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+[30:47] In fact, if you look at if you look at a pie crust uh uh under uh a scanning electron microscope, most of the starch granules haven't actually been cooked out, they're mostly still intact because there's not enough moisture in that recipe to uh get them to do their thighing. So you can um, which is good because you actually don't want a lot of structure, but sometimes you want to like you know, sometimes you I don't and I haven't used wondra in it, but the theory being that because you're adding a pre-gelatinized uh thing, you'll get some extra uh starch functionality out of it. And I guess it's also low protein, so I guess that's helpful. I don't know. Uh in that.
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+[31:18] In a cake, I read about its use in in uh in in cakes, and the idea there is that you don't need to do a lot of mixing to get the starch to perform its functional equivalency, so you don't have to overbeat the the dough because the stuff's already pre-hydrated, right? Uh obviously, it's you know the main uh use that everyone uses it for is uh making gravies without lumps. And the reason it makes gravy without lumps and also can be added cold, right? Uh, is the agglomeration. And it in normal particles, fine particles have a couple of problems with them.
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+[31:49] They're dusty, right? There's a lot of dust involved, and that's one of the early reasons that people wanted to use the wonder was to have stuff around that wasn't dusty. Two, uh, when you agglomerate the particles together, uh, it's very easy for water to infiltrate the particles and break off uh small, small pieces of this uh flour and then hydrate. Uh and that is not possible if you just add uh flour and fine particles because those particles tend to clump uh as they're trying to uh go into solution, and as they clump, they form a layer of gummy crap around them, and that layer of gummy crap actually prevents the stuff on the inside from getting wet at all, and because it doesn't get wet, it doesn't dissolve. So the agglomeration helps with dissolution, right?
+
+[32:30] And the pre-gelatination pre-gelatinized thing means it's already cooked out, so it will thicken stuff when it's cold. That's awesome. But also, uh normally when you use flour, you have to what's called cook it out to get rid of that raw flour taste, and there is no raw flour taste in wondra because it's already been cooked. All right. So that's what's going on with the wonder.
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+[32:48] The question is how are you gonna do that uh at home? You can't really make wondra at home. You can't. But there are a couple things you can do uh that you can buy outside of the US of A. One thing is national starch, national starch makes uh a product called ultra spurse uh three, and it's a pre-gelatinized waxy maize starch, right, that is agglomerated.
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+[33:09] So uh you see if you like, and there's a big thing, like a lot of uh I've talked about on the show a couple of times. Some chefs used to recommend Ultra-tex, but I always recommend using Ultra spurse because Ultra-tex is a pre-gelatinized starch uh that is not agglomerated, and so it can form lumps, and ultra spurse is a uh pre-gelatinized starch that um is agglomerated and so will not clump up on you. The only reason to use uh to not use spurse is spurse is a little more expensive than tech's, but for most home cooks that's not really an issue. And the other good news is Ultra Spurse is available on modernistpantry.com and they will ship all over the world, and I don't mind saying that even though they're no longer a supporter of our ship. No, I like them.
+
+[33:50] Yeah. All right. Yeah, good people. Uh so yeah, so they will ship that all over the world. Now, uh if you don't want to um do that for some reason, right?
+
+[33:59] You're gonna have a tough time making your own pre uh gelatinized agglomerated starch. But instead of agglomerating, if you don't mind cooking the product out, and you're gonna use it in something like gravy, uh, you can separate flour particles using some old school methods. And the one that I'm gonna tell you now is Bermani. Bermani is where you take butter, uh, which will not uh you know, it does not solubilize the flour, right? And you mold butter and flour together into little balls, and then you can stir those balls into your gravy, and because you separated the flour particles with fat, they no longer stick together, and as the butter melts, it releases small flour particles into your solution and it tends not to lump up as much.
+
+[34:39] So there you go. Either buy Ultra Spurse 3, which is uh a very good uh substitute for things like thickening and can be used in baking applications, or go to uh something like a bermani if you just want a quick way to thicken a gravy and you can't get your wonder. What do you think, Stas? Good job. Good.
+
+[34:55] Oh, thank you. Okay. Uh Ben from San Francisco writes in uh this is about his uh Thanksgiving uh thing of the jig. Uh Hello Heritage Radio. Valentine's Day, no?
+
+[35:06] Yeah, Valentine's Day. What'd I say? Thanksgiving. Oh, geez. My brain fried.
+
+[35:10] Okay. Hey Joe and the rest. You like that one too? Wow, look at Joe. Yeah.
+
+[35:15] So much love today. I know it, right? It's Ben from San Francisco again. Dave, my apologies for not reporting back on the Valentine's dinner I made for Anjali. Your advice was excellent.
+
+[35:23] Oh, thank you. Anjali has forgiven me for listening to your podcast during our vacation. Well, I'm glad. I'm glad. This is what Ben said he did on the Valentine's Day, not on Thanksgiving correction.
+
+[35:32] I ended up cooking a rack of lamb at 55C for two hours, uh bringing it down to 50 C before deep frying. I salted after unbagging from Sous vide as you and others have suggested, and I got better results than normal. Deep fried lamb fat is a bit funky, but with a side of a ratatouille and harissa yogurt sauce, everything came out really well. I also did biscuits. Biscuit stars.
+
+[35:52] I also did biscuits with apricot preserves. Mmm, biscuits, and thinly sliced smoked pork jowl. Sorry about the biscuits and stuff. Finally, I had to do uh finally I tried to do a jackfruit custard sous vide at 83C, but it didn't set up in the fridge. Turned it into a jackfruit jackfruit creme en glaze.
+
+[36:09] Nice save, Ben. Uh uh poured it over lemon vanilla cake, and no one was the wiser. Just a quick note. Jackfruit is awesome. Tastes like juicy fruit gum and looks like a face hugger pod from aliens.
+
+[36:19] Yeah, yeah, dude. And there's two kinds, there's a several main kinds of jackfruit. Remember, Styles when we cut the jackfruit off the trees in Florida, and no one told us that like you're supposed to like cut it and then let it sit on the ground for a while. And I got the latex all over my shirt and I ruined the shirt and I ruined my knife, and I was screaming and cursing because I couldn't get the latex from the jackfruit off of my knife, and it was a huge nightmare. Uh we have uh I guess what's his name?
+
+[36:41] Campbell, Richard Campbell, and Norris Leedsma is their name. We have their book on jackfruit back in my in my library on jackfruit. Uh jackfruit, if you've never had it, is delicious. Uh I don't like the I mean the canned version's whatever, okay, but really good first introduction to jackfruit for you people. Go to an Asian market and get the jackfruit chips, not the crappy ones, but the nice ones that are all puffy and delicious.
+
+[37:02] And they uh do have a juicy fruit note. They're awesome. Anyway, so uh Ben's question is my question. I'm planning to barbecue pork shoulder and brisket. I understand that to avoid the stall caused by evaporative cooling.
+
+[37:12] I need to wrap the meat with foil when it stops rising in temp at roughly 155 Fahrenheit. Uh barbecue joints don't seem to ever wrap their meat uh, though. What if anything am I losing when I wrap the meat? Are all these famous Southern barbecue joints just doing it wrong? Thanks again, Ben.
+
+[37:27] Okay. Uh well, let me put it. The the the proof of the pudding of the Southern barbecue joints is, as they say, in the eating. And having eaten in kind of in Texas style uh barbecue with actually Chris Young from Modernist Cuisine, while in fact discussing uh the stall that you're referring to during to evaporative cooling, right? Uh we we learned one thing.
+
+[37:47] And we learned that that meat is delicious, it's delicious. You can't argue with delicious. You know what I'm saying? Like, so the barbecue joints are not doing it uh wrong. Uh similarly in North Carolina, uh uh, you know, the meats that they're making there are delicious, and so it's not that they're doing it wrong.
+
+[38:04] Uh in modernist cuisine, they're advocates of stopping the stall by wrapping because they're advocates of doing sous vide cooking in general. However, I do not find that sous vide cooking is better or worse. It is different. If you like uh so the meats done in a traditional way are gonna be drier in general and gonna have a different outside uh surface texture than you would if you did it sous vide. It'll also have a different internal texture because they're gonna go to a much higher temperature than they normally would sous vide, and the meat tends to actually have a different structure.
+
+[38:35] Uh so to me, it's not a matter of better, it's not a matter of worse, it's just a matter of uh different and what you prefer. Yeah? Yes. Yes. Caller, you're on the air.
+
+[38:44] Hi, it's Brian in San Francisco. How are you guys? Doing well. How you doing? I'm doing swell, thanks.
+
+[38:50] Um it is citrus season over here, and so I am making gonna try and try my hand at lemon curd and orange curd and grapefruit curd. Um I have seen some recipes which you know use the traditional eggs, and some add agar to them, and I've seen some that add gelatin to them. And I'm wondering, do I need all those extras and and uh what do they do, or could I do it with just uh eggs or egg yolk? What do you think? And best technique.
+
+[39:22] Huh. Well, uh you know, um let me see. I haven't made one in in a long time. Presumably you're adding the gelatin, uh I mean the the I you don't need to add gelatin, right? Or agar.
+
+[39:34] Or agar. No. Me, look, the reason to add agar is so that you um don't have to use gelatin, right? And agar has the agar has a second benefit uh over gelatin in other than just it's vegetarian. Uh it has uh the benefit that if you're going to have this thing sitting around in a hot climate, right, then uh agar won't melt out on you.
+
+[39:58] Agar is not as good uh uh a texture for things like this because it breaks in more of a brittle way, which isn't necessarily which isn't curdie. Do you know what I mean? So if you were gonna do a curd that was going to be uh you know stirred and then spread, then I would say agar is a very poor choice. But it would it would do so, or you know, you could make a fluid gel for that matter out of it, and then you wouldn't set it with however much egg yolk you want. Um so I mean the agar I've never I've never done, but seems seems like it it would it would work.
+
+[40:27] I don't I don't think they're necessary. There's a more like insurance, right? Wouldn't you think so? Hello? Yeah, like just it just just in just in case.
+
+[40:37] Like for instance, the one from Modernist Cuisine doesn't use anything but egg yolk. Right. That seems to me to make sense. That sucker will work. Okay.
+
+[40:46] Uh so you think skip the skip the gelatin, skip the agar, just go with the egg yolk. I mean modernist cuisine, like the great thing about modernist cuisine, uh and I haven't looked at their custard section uh in in a million years because uh, you know, I I haven't actually shelled out the money for the book yet, so I only looked at it when I'm hanging out with uh Chris or with another. Oh, at home, yeah. And so like they have like these parametric things. They've done a lot of tests on the number of egg yolks required and the temperature required to set various various things.
+
+[41:12] Uh and so I think their their research on things like that in particular is probably extremely reliable. Okay, one question is, you know, most of these recipes are for lemon curd, um, but if I want to go with other kinds of citrus, well that and I do choose to go with agar when or or gelatin, will any of the acidity be uh be an issue? No, the acidity level for something like agar, uh I mean I've done plenty of uh sets of things like l lemony things with agar and uh similarly I've never things with agar that have a problem are things like cassis, things with high tannin levels, or things that are extremely acidic, but you're not likely to eat something that is so acid that the agar is not gonna set as a result. So I think you're gonna be um you're gonna be okay. Um, you know, the only issue is is that you might add less sugar to something that's not as tart, and so then your texture is gonna get changed by the fact that your sugar ratio has changed.
+
+[42:10] Does that make sense? So if you're gonna do it from a different citrus, I mean I think the main thing is gonna be your acid sugar balance has to come in, and then your sugar level has to be the same uh or the texture won't be the same. Uh so the sugar level impacts the agar? Sure. No, the sugar sugar level well, sugar level will impact uh agar because you're impacting how much water there is available to the agar to set, but sugar level will also affect uh egg yolk proteins if you're setting it that way.
+
+[42:36] So I don't know whether the w whether the modernist cuisine has that meaning a specific sugar ratio for the egg yolk that they talk about, but I know that different sugar ratios affect the setting uh temperature and the finish uh strength of um egg protein gels. Yeah, they say here uh when they scale it, it's 30% yolks, 75% sugar. Right. Sounds about right. Yeah.
+
+[42:59] Yeah. So you want to stay in similar ranges. Okay, wonderful. Thank you so much. Um I think I'll try it uh the old-fashioned way first.
+
+[43:08] Nice. Well, tweet us out and tell us what happened. Okay, great. Thanks. Have a good day.
+
+[43:13] All right, thanks. Uh oh, by the way, Ben also at the end said, P.S. still waiting for the Kickstarter project to be announced. Listen, here's what's going on, Ben, and anyone else who cares. Uh a Kickstarter project.
+
+[43:23] The reason we can't talk about it is our lawyer, our patent lawyer, is not allowing us to say a darn thing about what we're doing until he files the patent. But it's supposed to be filed this week, so if all goes well, I should be able to say what it is next week, right? Right. That looks really good. Uh Nastasha now talking about something you can't see.
+
+[43:40] That's typical Nastasha style. Somebody is eating some sort of what looks like a low temperature cooked piece of beef uh out in i i in in the audience. Okay. Uh I'm gonna have to blast through this. Colin Arneson writes in about ice cream.
+
+[43:52] Uh Nastasha Jack and Joe, due to health reasons, my mother cannot have dairy. This wouldn't be that much of a problem for her if it weren't for ice cream. She's been buying tofu ice cream for a while, but is getting tired of it, partly because it only comes in one flavor. Oh, there used to be a whole bunch of different flavors of uh tofu ice cream. You ever had that stuff?
+
+[44:07] Nastasha's like, why would I do that? I eat dairy. Okay. Uh uh partly because it only comes in one flavor. Any ideas for creating a dairy-free ice cream base?
+
+[44:15] I've heard of people subbing out coconut milk for dairy milk, but she doesn't care for coconut that much. And I'd be worried about the texture since coconut milk has less fat, 4.25%, compared to most ice cream bases, 10 to 20%. I've been thinking about making a fake milk with emulsified oil and water. Any input? What oil should I use?
+
+[44:31] Need to have uh similar fatty acid makeup to milk fat. I don't have any emulsifiers or hydrocolloids at the moment, but I'm planning on getting some stuff from Modernist Pantry anyway. Although also I have no vita prep, though I do have a blender, so that's out of the question for the time being. Thanks, uh, Colin Arneson. Okay, look, one thing.
+
+[44:47] Uh okay, so I I know that your mom doesn't like coconut, but I'm just gonna talk about coconut for a minute anyway. First of all, uh the numbers on the coconut milk that you have for the coconut milk that I use are are not the same. Coconut the coconut milk, I and this morning I took a uh uh can of coconut milk, Goya coconut milk, out of the back of my uh out of my pantry and looked at it. Um and the stuff that I have is running at like 16% fat. So the coconut milk that I have runs between like 15 and 17 in that range percent fat.
+
+[45:17] And so it is actually useful for uh doing um ice creams. What I typically do when I'm doing ice creams is mixture of coconut uh milk and coconut cream or cream of coconut, aka Coco Lopez, no relation to Nastasha. Uh and then uh, but I know your m I know your mom doesn't like it. But anyway, so let's break down an ice cream. Let's break down an ice cream uh recipe real quick.
+
+[45:39] Alright. So my rest my ice cream recipe is 500 mils of uh cream uh uh with roughly 36% fat, 36.6, uh 10 egg yolks, uh also at roughly like 26% fat, uh, and 500 mils of milk at like you know uh three and a half or f you know four percent fat, 170 grams of sugar. And what that recipe makes out to by weight is uh 18%, 18.5% fat by weight, and about 12.5% sugar by weight. Alright. So what you need to do when you want to come up with a recipe is just balance out uh those numbers.
+
+[46:11] Now, the reason why everyone uses coconut milk and coconut fats for uh ice cream recipes is because coconut milk and coconut the fat from coconuts has a very similar melting profile to butter fat. So it's a solid when it's cold and it melts by the time it's at body temperature. And that profile is very good for ice creams, right? And that's why they do it. You might want to consider looking at a little article uh done by um uh the American Palmoil dot com.
+
+[46:42] They have an article on uh using palm palm oil uh and uh you know, not not the liquid stuff, but the the more solid stuff. And you could go get that uh article or just get palm oil uh that and just use that maybe in emulsified and the other advantage with using it in uh it's already in coconut cream or creamed coconut is uh that it's already uh done for you. Uh in fact, if you buy Coco Lopez, it's got all kinds of stabilizers in it already. Uh so that you can I just like saying Coco Lopez. Uh but you can uh buy all kinds of stabilizers.
+
+[47:13] So just out of you know for your for your information. Coconut cream, which is the Asian stuff that not a lot of people buy here, is 26% fat with no sugar on average. I looked at some labels on the internet. Egg yolks are 26% fat. Cream of coconut, which is Coca Lopez, is 13% fat and also 56 bricks, meaning very high in sugar.
+
+[47:29] Coconut milk is 15 to 17% fat. So something that and what I did is I just entered all the stuff into an Excel spreadsheet and then came up with some numbers. So if you did uh if you did uh 11 egg yolks, 280 grams of coconut cream, the Coca Lopez, uh, and 730 uh you know grams of um coconut milk, you'd come out with very similar numbers to regular ice cream in terms of fat and sugar. But if you don't want to use coconut, you could try using um I mean it's hard. I mean, coconut milk is really good.
+
+[48:02] I've used peanut butter in ice creams as a partial substitution for some of it. But remember, when you move away from using any sort of dairy, you're also gonna have to not just replace the fat, you're gonna have to replace the dairy proteins because they're also functional. So you're gonna have to move to something like a soy protein or soap protein isolate or something that's uh high in protein that can provide some of the effect of the non-fat milk solids. Um sorry I couldn't be more help on that, but uh, I'll try to think of some formulations, have someone else uh send some stuff back. Um the other advantage of using coconut milk and coconut cream is that you don't have to use a blender because the stuff's already been made into a nice uh texture for you.
+
+[48:35] But I gotta think of some non coconut because I make coconut stuff all the time uh actually for ice cream at home because I have some people who don't want to eat the dairy sometimes. So I always have in my freezer some base that's made from uh coconut milk and coconut cream. And it doesn't really taste coconut y if you put a whole boatload of chocolate into it. Uh I found. Uh okay.
+
+[48:54] So listen, I'm gonna get kicked off the air in a second. But uh Alvin Schultz, you got a question about savory pop rocks. Uh I don't have time to talk about it this this week, but you can buy savory pop rocks, uh just blank pop rocks online. I believe at Chef Rubber. We'll look it up for next time.
+
+[49:08] Uh Jason Mulnari wrote in about cooked meats. He says you always mention your oven gets up to 800 degrees plus. What residential oven does that? Or did you hack it? I hacked it.
+
+[49:17] I put uh I I put two separate extra heating elements into my oven uh that are controlled with an external PID controller uh and embedded in a refractory cement. So I uh I hacked like everything else, I hacked it. Um residential oven does that except for on the self-crean clean. Some people out there have hacked their self-clean cycle, but I'm not gonna recommend you do that because I don't want you to burn your house down, but it's definitely hacked, and it wasn't a residential oven to begin with, it was uh it was a uh garland with a and it's it was it's a gas electric hybrid that I've uh tweaked out to do pizza. Okay, uh also Joseph W.
+
+[49:48] wrote in Dear Jack, Joe, uh, and the rest, Nastasha, question about broth. Uh thinking ramen in particular, would it be possible to make a broth with unrendered lard instead of or in place of some of the bones, then cooling the broth and removing the fat layer. In this scenario, all I care about is flavor. Don't care about the clarity or any other issues. Thank you.
+
+[50:04] Okay, if you like the flavor of lard, you can include it. I do not think you're gonna get enough uh enough collagen out of just the lard without the skin uh to have the effect you want in the broth to get the mouthfeel right, right? So if you happen to like the flavor of just like rendered lard, then you can put it in there. I'll tell you this though, having done like pork skin cook-offs for doing uh chicharones, the smell of just pork skins cooking alone in water is not pleasant. Right?
+
+[50:32] Yeah. Or beaver skin. Or be no beaver skin, much less pleasant. Although I kind of like it. It's very woodsy.
+
+[50:37] But anyway, so just be careful of that. If you include skins, then you're gonna have enough uh stuff in there, but you're not gonna get any meaty flavor from it. You're just gonna get that fat lard and skin flavor. Yeah, that gelatin flavor. Okay.
+
+[50:47] Uh Philip Watson, uh dinner party menu crisis, making reverse verified mint jewel at the start, but what apt to follow? Some form of pig, help. Do uh pork belly, do pork belly, do cook it low temp, press it after it's done. Uh let the air dry a little bit, slow render the skin till it's crispy, cut it in low slices, make some sort of nice sauce, cut into cubes. Everyone likes that.
+
+[51:06] Uh all right. So they're gonna kick me, they're really gonna kick me off the air in two seconds. But listen, I read this article in the New York Times magazine called The Extraordinary Science of Addictive Drunk Food by Michael Moss. I was extremely disappointed at the way the article presented things. Uh, and we're gonna have to talk more about it in general.
+
+[51:21] It's this guy won a Pulitzer Prize, but this is not, I don't think, Pulitzer Prize winning uh uh work that's being done here. Um I think it's very one-sided, very biased, uh, and also miss misrepresents a lot of the actual science that's going on and cherry picks the science about what's going on with uh with uh salt and with sugar and with fat. Uh I think misrepresents uh kind of um not necessarily the cause of why we're having so many health issues here, but definitely provides a no solutions and b puts all the blame on marketing strategies of companies instead of on the larger issues that are going on. And I'm gonna talk more about it hopefully next time. I'd like to get some comments in from people.
+
+[52:04] I also hope that the Museum of Food and Drink, uh, and we haven't talked about it before, details to follow. I want to do a show uh where at you know, with the museum, where we're moderating, and I want to get hardcore real scientists and food policy experts on the air in real reason debate, not one sided junk that's all either from an industry perspective or all either from an anti industry perspective. I'm sick of the way this stuff is portrayed in the media. I'm sick of the way this stuff is portrayed uh in general, and what we need is something like hardball, uh the you know, a political hardball. We need like Chris Matthews, we need something like that for what's going on in the in the food uh in food.
+
+[52:46] And it doesn't exist yet. Hopefully, we can do something uh like that here on this network. Details to follow. Cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network dot org.
+
+[53:10] You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org.
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+[0:00] The following program has been brought to you by Rolling Press, a family-run, eco-friendly printing company. For more information, visit rolling press dot com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit heritage radio network.org for thousands more. Go.
+
+[0:39] We're also Kilkrias Cooks at Hearts. We've got some questions, but don't know where to start. Dave Nastatsia Jack and Joe 2. They're all here now to listen and help us through. So get your cook check issues.
+
+[1:33] This is a call on Shay with your cooking issues. Every Tuesday. Coming to you in the back of uh Roberta's PT in Bushwick Brooklyn. Hey Joel, thanks for coming by. How are you doing?
+
+[2:05] Thanks for having me. Yeah, no problem. Here, pull that mic over there. And you're all we're also joined uh with uh America. Hello.
+
+[2:11] Hi. She hasn't had a mic yet, she will in a second. It's pointed uh where Joel's mouth used to be pointed. Uh and as usual, joined with uh Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, Joe and Jack in the engineering booth. No Joe.
+
+[2:22] No Joe! Joe's on tour, man. On tour? South by Southwest, yeah. He's uh big ups.
+
+[2:27] On the road with the big ups. Yeah, yeah, doing his front man routine. Rockstar life. Where's he gonna tour? Where's he gonna go?
+
+[2:33] Uh he'll be in Austin doing a few shows down there. And I think uh a few shows on the way to Austin. Like something like eight shows in 15 days. What's the big venue nowadays between here and Austin? Oh man, I don't know.
+
+[2:44] You're asking the wrong guy. No? Yeah, I have no idea. Anyway, good luck to Joe. Go out and see Joe.
+
+[2:50] That was great, Joel. Yeah, that was great. Thank you so much. Thanks for coming in. Uh and this was the long-awaited live performance of the Cooking Issues theme here on the uh on the on the air.
+
+[3:01] So uh in case you weren't paying attention to the theme song, calling your questions live too, 7184972128. That's 7184972128. Got a lot of crap to go through. Oh, by the way, where are you guys where are you guys hailing from if people don't already know? Uh New Haven, Connecticut is where I work.
+
+[3:14] We're from Clinton, though, so the southern uh shoreline of Connecticut. Yeah, uh back when I was there, there was an awesome song by uh Connecticut band called Gravel Pit called Going Back to Southern Connecticut. I don't know if you remember that song. No. Yeah, from the early 90s back when I was uh up in up in New Haven Way.
+
+[3:28] What are you guys doing in New Haven? So I'm a corporate chef, so um I have a uh corporate cafeteria that I run. Uh but I have most of my uh experience is in fine dining, so I sort of take that and move it to serve people lunch of this company that I work for called Higher One. Uh they seem to really like it. Um I got a decent budget to work with, great people, great staff.
+
+[3:47] Uh and I just take a big interest in sort of the modernist movement and uh doing everything in-house. So I run a full bread program there. I run a charcuterie program, um, and we serve this to people on blue plastic trays, and it's kind of funny. Nice. Yeah, nice, nice.
+
+[4:02] I haven't been up to New Haven in a while. Nastasha's sister up there at the Yale at this very moment. Uh all right, let's get cracking. We got a lot of crap. Oh, before I before I we're announcing what the Kickstarter is today, we haven't we haven't filmed it yet, but as of uh last week, I guess Friday, right?
+
+[4:16] We have our patent pending. Is that true, Stas? It was Friday. That's true. So I have my first patent pending, and so now I can tell you guys what it is we're working on.
+
+[4:23] Here's what it is. So uh anyone who's listening to me knows that uh I have issues with the use of torches in the kitchen. Because when you what happens is I I always find that they make what what I call a torch taste, and that you can tell uh the flavor of something if it's been torched. The other problem with torches is that um they tend to burn one spot if you're not very careful, so you have to back way back on them. It's very difficult to control because you have a very hot uh kind of point heat source that's blasting very fast.
+
+[4:52] You can also move stuff around. The torch, the torch gases are moving so fast. Now, for years, years, uh we've all thought that what was going on was an improperly mixed flame, right? Or incomplete combustion of the uh propane or butane. And so there's a lot of arguments back and forth on well, it's the it's the gas, right?
+
+[5:12] It's so that's why some people are like, well, butane tastes better than propane, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah. Or that somehow, if you can complete the combustion of what I in fact, what I used to think it was was they put um stink it stink of fence, I don't know what they're called. Odorants, there you go, into gases so that you could tell if there's a gas leak. Typically, uh uh sulfur containing things, mercaptins that you can smell in very small concentrations. So I always thought it was some sort of residue of that that hadn't been fully combusted.
+
+[5:37] Anyways, uh turns out uh none of that's the case. Uh we sent some uh we sent some products, including the new thing that we're making over to uh Ariel at UC Davis, our good friend, who did some GC mass spec work on meats cooked in a pan, meats cooked with a regular torch, and meats cooked with our new attachment. Right. Now, what our new attachment does is it arrests the flame, right, allows for complete combustion, but also spreads it out and turns it into uh mainly radiant energy. So, what it is is uh it's a cone that fits over your uh torch and has two screens on it, and those two screens convert the majority of the heat of the torch into radiant energy and stops it from being a direct hardcore blasting flame onto your thing, and also spreads it out evenly so that you have a three-inch circle of glowing red, like right it's stuzz, it's like crazy glowing red.
+
+[6:31] And the other thing about it with the because the screen is such a light thermal mass, unlike other radiant things like salamanders that take a long time to heat up, this suckers at full blast in like a couple of seconds. Not everyone says, Oh man, salamander instant on bull crap. You light up a salamander, it's it's many minutes until it's raging at full speed. Yeah, you can start cooking with it pretty quickly, but this sucker, instant on. Anyways, so she did a test of uh pan cooking, torch cooking, and the uh the new attachment that we're making, and it turns out that uh what's happening with the propane isn't uncombusted fuel, it's that the super high heat, high intensity, direct flame on the torch is creating new combustion flavors on the meat that are undesirable and taste fuely.
+
+[7:17] Uh and we have the data, and when we do the Kickstarter, you know, in uh in like a we'll probably do the Kickstarter in what, like a month or something, Stas? Yeah, yeah. Something like that. Yeah. Uh anyway, so you like we'll show the diagram she did, the taste diagram, and there's kind of a good half and a bad half.
+
+[7:32] Our half is oh it doesn't taste the same as pan, but we haven't done tests versus grilling, which is what we think it's more like, or like straight broiling. But we're on the good half of the of the taste uh thing, and the torch cooking by itself is on the bad half due to these other uh newly created uh um cooking byproducts. Anywho, so we have one problem left with this uh attachment, and it'll fit on um we're we're making it right now to fit on the three most common torches that you have in kitchens. But the one problem we have, we don't have a name for it yet. Right, Stas?
+
+[8:04] Yeah. We sort of we've thrown around many, many. Yeah, but no one likes no like we don't like. We all like different names. Yeah, well Nastasha likes some of the options here.
+
+[8:11] Okay, well, Nastasha likes, which is absurd because it's too freaking long for a name, the all searing eye, because it looks like that's not my that goes to Piper. Piper came up with the name. No, he didn't. Oh really? No.
+
+[8:21] No, he didn't. You just like it best. Yeah, he came up with the name, and I mean, yeah, he did. I came up with that. Okay.
+
+[8:27] Anyway, no, I mean, like, I'm I'm glad to give Piper his his ups. You know I love myself some Piper, but it's an absurd name for the for the product because it's too long. Hey, can someone go get the all searing eye? No, it's not gonna happen in the kitchen, it won't happen. So then I was like, hey, because I love sawzalls, because who doesn't love a salzol?
+
+[8:42] Anyone out there that doesn't love a salzol can come and have a discussion with me privately. But sawzalls are amazing. And what do they saw? Do they saw some things? Everything, saws all.
+
+[8:50] So I was like, well, what about Sears all? Searzol, but and everyone's like, it sounds like Sears Roebuck. I don't want to buy it because it sounds like Sears Robux. So I got some some some blowback on that. Uh you can't use anything with the word dragon in it because there's already a torch company that uses the word dragon.
+
+[9:04] It's got to be something, it's got to be something, I don't know, that's easy to trademark. We lot I liked uh we like some version of Sally, like Sally, but like Piper, this is Piper's Sally Hander, but it's another silly name. That was Mark's. That was Mark's. I know.
+
+[9:19] It sounds sounds not family friendly, right? Yeah, you're gonna get a Sally Hander. Sally Hander, right. Here's why I like Sally though. I like Sally, I liked Sally, what did I like?
+
+[9:27] I like Sally Mattock, but no one likes that because Dax likes Sally Mattock. But I the reason people don't like people don't like the silly names. Why I like Sally is it sounds friendly, and it sounds like something you might say, Sally instead of Sally Mander, some version of Sally. But in uh in a what's it called? When I'm bowing to pressure from Nastasha, we're gonna probably put the letters A-S-E for all steering eye after this.
+
+[9:47] Yeah. Because we're patenting the whole text. It's just so funny. We're pat oh yeah, and we should base our letter. No, I mean it's great.
+
+[9:53] Alright, alright. So, anyways, so uh uh the so we'll probably put the letters A S E afterwards because this is the all steering eye version, and we might have a tabletop version that's not. So here's the here's the cooking issues contest uh of the next week because we need to get this thing straightened out. We're working on it, so we might not use any suggestions. However, if we get a suggestion in that we use, you will get a free version of whatever the hell this thing is called that we're trying to help us to name uh without having to uh invest money in the Kickstarter, right?
+
+[10:19] Fair? And can in in due consideration for the use of name and our ability to use it in all perpetuity. Um right? That's a good contest, yes? Speaking of contests, I have to give a shout-out to Cole Miles, who became a member uh and of Heritage Radio Ave through cooking issues.
+
+[10:35] So thanks, Co. Nice, nice. Is he the winner of that other contest it's over? Yeah, that's the the membership drive. Is he coming in from Houston?
+
+[10:43] I don't think so, but if if he ever gets here, he says he'll he'll come. He's an interesting dude. I don't know how much he wants me to tell you about himself on the air, but I met him at a uh what's it called? What do we call those things? So vide, sous vide low low temperature class.
+
+[10:56] And uh interesting dude. Uh interesting history. Okay, so thank you and congratulations for winning. Any questions on the torch attachment light here, Joel? No, I mean it sounds actually awesome because I've had the problem of obviously use the torch because you want some quick steering on the outside of something, it just tastes gross.
+
+[11:11] Yeah, it's gross. Yeah. This one, okay. So here's the deal, right? The main problem is is that when you're when when uh the reason I first started working on this is that is I'm interested in finishing low temperature meats.
+
+[11:21] And a regular salamander, right? It doesn't have the doesn't have the whatever the polite doesn't have the oomph. There you go. That's a polite way to say it. It doesn't have the oomph.
+
+[11:29] There's a caller, Dave, if you want to. All right, hold on, one second. To finish a low temperature meat. And so uh this does because you can get it extremely close to the surface of the meat, or you can pull back with almost no burn, but then it has a lot of ancillary things, like if you roast a chicken and uh, you know, and it's not quite done at certain points, you can hit it without it getting on that. Yeah.
+
+[11:48] Or like, you know, if you're doing burgers and you don't want to you don't want to steam your burger, you can just throw the chick uh the cheese on top and then melt the cheese out directly with this thing almost instantly without having to like either throw it in a salamander or or cover it so that this burger is steaming. You know, you're useful like uh to help to finish off little parts of the area of a grill when you're not working right. So it's just useful to have around. It pops off and on your torch. Anyway, we're looking forward to it.
+
+[12:11] All right, caller, you're on the air. Dave, Chris from Durham, North Carolina. How are you going? Going alright, going alright. How's it doing down there in Durham?
+
+[12:19] Uh it's pretty rainy, so not great, but uh pretty decent food scene down here. All my family's from New York, and uh we can get some pretty good eats down here. Nice. Yeah. Got a quick question for you about um polyphenol oxidases and avocados.
+
+[12:33] Yes, it's problematic, right? Yeah, is there any way to turn that like kill them in a circulator without changing the flesh? Uh that's a great question. Uh I was looking at the range. It's like 25 to 35 C is I think their optimal thing, but I'm trying to do um like an avocado roulade without using any kind of acid.
+
+[12:51] Right. Uh I seem to remember somebody testing this out. I've never actually tested it myself. I seem to remember somebody. I mean, obviously the trick is to cook it to a temperature that uh inactivates the enzymes without rupturing the cells.
+
+[13:07] And I would guess that you'd want to do something in the mid to high fifties. Sure. You know what I mean? Maybe like 60 should wipe it out, right? Don't you think?
+
+[13:19] 140? 60. I would assume so, yeah. Yeah, I don't I don't know that you're gonna have that much change at 60. I mean, I don't know what's gonna happen to the other products of respiration in the avocado at that temperature, but that's a great.
+
+[13:32] I mean, I would give it a shot and see what happens. Just don't peel a f an avocado. I wouldn't don't vacuum it because you'll smash it. You know what I mean? Yeah.
+
+[13:39] Like uh, definitely. Yeah, I would just throw avocados into uh into 60 degree water or even 65, I would try. Because I think uh Bruno Gusot, he was trying to inactivate the enzymes in papaya without ha without doing anything uh to the flesh. And uh Nils and I tried it and we hated it because it intensified that diaper smell that papayas have up here, that nasty baby diaper smell that papayas have uh that I think they have, but they for some reason they don't have in South America, which is why I guess they like them in South America. And if you have anyone here met an American that loves papayas?
+
+[14:08] No. I hate papayas. Yeah, see? Uh so yeah, yeah, no. Right, yeah, yeah.
+
+[14:12] I think it's because we get crappy ones. In South America, they're legit. Anyway, so uh Gousseau, I think was using 65 degrees, so you might want to try that for but then the question is you should uh use uh sous vide um, whatever that, whatever the poly science sous vide application is for the uh iPad just to calculate your time temperature ratios. Now remember though, you don't need it to get all the way to the seed. So, you know, take the take the numbers with a grain of salt, right?
+
+[14:38] Because you're only really penetrating the first however much that is, inch, you know, depending on what kind of avocado. I'm assuming you're using uh Haas or equivalent, not like the dimension. Yeah. So I mean, I don't know how long it's gonna take to penetrate, but you know, the uh sous vide tool, what is what the hell is that thing called again? So you toolbox?
+
+[14:55] Dash, dash. There you go. Uh use that to calculate what your what your time is. And if you try it, please tell us what happens so that we know. Yeah, I would love to test it out.
+
+[15:04] Um it's been a problem for a while, and you know, lime goes great with avocado, but you don't always want to use it. Right. I guess that's true. I guess you don't always want lime, although a lot of times I love myself the lime. But but it's it's an excellent problem.
+
+[15:19] And like you try it out, and if I can think about it, I mean I I like we swim in avocados uh in my neighborhood. They're basically free. It's like it's like cheaper to use avocados than packing peanuts in the lower east side in some places when you buy 'em. But uh but try try to give it a shot, and if I can remember to do it, I'll try to give it a shot and see what happens. Okay, cool.
+
+[15:36] One more quick question about Dragon's Beard video you did. Yeah. Whenever I do it, it just sets up like a rock. I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Um, what do you mean like a rock?
+
+[15:45] Like how much like a rock? Like a soft rock or like a hard rock. You can't put a dent into it? Yeah, even when I microwave it, which you mentioned in that video, it's if I can't get my finger through it. I don't know what the if I'm cooking it too long.
+
+[15:56] It's a little bit more yellow than yours, and I don't know if it's just going too high, but I mean my probe says it's going to one thirty-three, I think is what you said. Well, I think that's the that's the finish, but uh I think I pull it at like one thirty-one or one thirty-two. Go back and look at the go back and look at the thing again. You're add but you're and you're adding the corn syrup? Yeah.
+
+[16:15] Hmm. I mean, just try cooking it to like a degree or two lower so you see what's what's going on. Uh it's not crystallizing though, right? It's still staying clear. No, it's not crystallizing.
+
+[16:25] Yeah, so I mean, uh it's best not to have to nuke it because if you have to nuke it, we well is Dragon's Beard Candy, for those of you that don't know what the heck we're talking about, is a candy where you cook sugar to a particular point. My memory is that the finished temperature should be at 133 with a little bit of uh with a little bit of corn syrup added uh to uh prevent crystallization. And um what you do is it has to be this exact texture that it's a solid but still bendable uh when it when it cools down, and you form it into a donut and then you stretch it at all the time, putting it through uh cornstarch or a mixture of uh cornstarch and cocoa or mixture of cornstarch and whatever other powdered flavors you want, and folding it and stretching it, folding it and stretching it until you stretch it into the into the width of cotton candy. It becomes like cotton candy. It's called Dragon Spear uh in China.
+
+[17:14] In uh in other places like Iran, it has uh other names like uh I think they call it Pecmesh. Uh no, Pekmesh is the other thing. What's it called? Anyway, so I forget. Uh Pecmesh is uh the grape molasses, right?
+
+[17:26] I can't remember what it's called. Anyway, it's called something. Uh so so and a lot of cultures have this thing, and then uh but the issue is is if it's too soft, it'll just blast apart on you. And if it's too hard, you can soften it in the nuke, but when you if you're not extremely quick, it'll chill, and when it chills, it hardens and then it'll rupture, sometimes explosively. It's quite amusing to watch me getting covered in things and yelling and screaming and cursing when that happens.
+
+[17:50] Uh but I would try just going a degree or two lower and then uh letting it come like letting the thing uh the temperature rise as as it comes off the thing. Are you not altering the batch size, are you? Uh I cut it in half once, and then I tried to do the full one because it's just me in my apartment. I don't need, you know, two pounds of candy. I've never tried it with a smaller batch size, and it might be that the batch size you're getting a faster rise in temperature with a smaller batch size.
+
+[18:15] The larger batch size was just as hard as the small one. Uh the first time I did it, I had it in half, and it got up to temp in like 17 minutes. Maybe that was the issue. Yeah, yeah. But I'll give it another shot and let you guys know how it goes, along with that avocado thing.
+
+[18:29] Alright, cool. Thanks, brother. Alright, thanks. Keep up the great work. Love the show.
+
+[18:32] Uh-huh. Thank you very much. All right. Anna writes in, and by the way, Anna busted Nastasha, female listener, totally busted. She's married.
+
+[18:41] Oh. Oh, wait, so wait, she's not a woman now? She's not a woman because she's married. What the hell's that? That was why she didn't yeah.
+
+[18:47] Oh. Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah. But anyway, but n Nastasha's point was that we have absolutely no female listeners, and not only a female listener, but one from Budapest. So Well, now my point is we have no single female listeners.
+
+[19:01] Or or or none that are interested in me. Right. Right, right. Okay. So anyway, uh fur further trials with Dulce de Leche.
+
+[19:11] Here we go. Uh Anna writes in. I just wanted to give you a shout out that I've listened to all your episodes and currently up to date with the podcast. Thank you. Uh, you guys make my base baking sessions at home even more entertaining, and I have learned a great deal from you, which uh for which I'm very thankful.
+
+[19:22] If you were still not tired of my dulce de leche questions, it really can't be enough dulce de leche questions, right? I mean, it's a good product. The banging you might hear is from the lunatics upstairs, I guess they're like, they're beating a tree to death. There's trees growing on top of us, and I think they're beating a tree to death. Oh, really?
+
+[19:38] I don't know. Well, in order to build a tree house, you have to beat a tree to death. Okay, so uh dulce dilation. Here's uh uh dulce de leche. Here's a new one.
+
+[19:45] Uh, how do I prevent the sugar in dulce de leche from recrystal uh recrystallizing? The cream turned out uh beautiful the way you told me uh it would, but after a week or two it started having little sugar crystals in it, and we would like to give it uh homemade dulce de leche to our guests at our wedding. And if it's not married yet, not married yet, at the wedding, yeah. Uh and it would be nice to give them something that stays smooth. Should I put golden syrup in it?
+
+[20:07] Thank you very much in advance. Hi from Budapest, Anna. Okay. It's not sugar per se, that it's not table sugar that's causing uh the graininess in your dulce de leche. It is lactose.
+
+[20:18] And what happens is that when you heat the uh and concentrate the the milk, making the dulce de leche, you all of a sudden put the lactose in a position that it is super saturated once it cools. And so over time, lactose will A crystallize and then B, form larger and larger crystals, agglomerate until the lactose crystals get to a point where it tastes sandy in your mouth, at which point very difficult to get rid of them. Now, I you should be able to reheat your dulce de leche in like a water bath all the way up. You have to go above 93, I think, or above, you know, 85, 93 to get it to go redissolve again. I don't know how long you have to keep it there.
+
+[20:59] But that's not going to solve your problem because what you want to do is give it as a gift and then uh and then have it stay good for a long period of time. So uh, you know, that's probably not going to help you. The reheating it. Okay. Now, the way that they do it, the way they do it in condensed milk, right?
+
+[21:15] If you're I know you're not making dulcetal lache from condensed milk because you were doing it the old-fashioned way, but the way that they make sweetened condensed milk not have this problem is they add miniature lactose, very, very fine lactose seed crystals as it's cooling down. And by doing that, they seed it with such small crystals that the crystals are small enough that you don't uh sense them in your in your on your tongue. Okay? Also not an option for you. Although it might be possible to add a small amount of uh sweetened condensed milk to the dulcetal leche as it cools down to seed it with the small crystals.
+
+[21:48] I don't know how much you'd need to add, and you'd want to add them when the stuff is around 35 uh Celsius, at a place where it's still liquid enough to move around, uh, but that you know it's uh not hot enough that it's going to dissolve the C crystals. Okay. Uh also this is probably not going to work out for you. There are various stirring regiments and cooling regiments, but I couldn't find one that reliably worked, right? So here's down to my last one.
+
+[22:13] See what you think about this. You can buy lactase. Lactase is the enzyme that breaks down lactose into its two constituent sugars. Okay. If you add lactase to uh the milk, which you can, I think get at pharmacies, right?
+
+[22:27] Because people who are lactose intolerant can buy lactase and put, or you can just buy lactose uh uh free milk, but you know, you could do it yourself because you might have a milk that you like, right? You add the lactose to it. The lactose will break up uh the lactase will break up the lactose, but right, see, lactose is necessary in the thing, in the in the mix because it's a reducing sugar, right? So that's a reduced, so straight sucrose uh I don't think inverts enough into the uh dulcetylchee to provide a reducing sugar such that it's gonna get uh adequate browning. So some people use glucose, they add glucose, which re but speeds up the browning sometimes too much, which is why you have to limit the amount of glucose you add.
+
+[23:03] But if you break down the lactose, it'll still have uh its reducing sugars when you break it down. And according to uh advanced dairy chemistry, volume three, lactose, water, salts, and minor constituents. If you add uh, you know, a lactase and convert a mere 30 or or 40% of the lactose in the milk, then that's enough to prevent recrystallization of the lactose as it as it cools down. So go buy that, add it to the milk, let it sit around for a day, then make your dual state of Huff should not crystallize. Although please run a test before your wedding because I do not want to ruin your uh your your wedding gifts out out to your people.
+
+[23:39] Another interesting thing I read about in that book uh is that I'd always assumed that the baking uh soda that people add to the dual state alH was there to enhance the myard reactions by making the product more basic. But it also turns out uh that it has another purpose. Now I'll just read it directly from advanced dairy chemistry. Uh gluc uh, where is it? Um bum bum.
+
+[24:01] The mixture of milk and sugars is first neutralized with calcium hydroxide or sodium bicarbonate. So they're they're using baking soda or or uh calcium oxide, to obtain a pH of 7.0 or a titratable acidity equivalent to 2 to 10 milligrams of lactic acid per blah blah blah blah blah. Uh neutralization avoids the destabilization of casein micells as a consequence of the decrease in pH during evaporation, which in turn is due to the concentration of calcium phosphate, the formation of organic acids from lactose degradation, and the hydrolysis of phosphoric esters of caseins. So there's actually acid being formed in the milk as it is being boiled down, which can lead to the destabilization of casein micells. Did not know that.
+
+[24:38] Didn't we have a collar date? Colour, you're on the air. Hello? Hi. Hi.
+
+[24:43] I'm calling I've got a s slightly strange question. I want to know about the process that you think of emulsifying beef tallow. Just straight up, you know, if you were to trying to make a foam or a froth, say, could you like run it through an ISI container or use a hand blender? And then once you did that, if you could do that, what would you stabilize it with? I mean without uh straight beef fat.
+
+[25:08] Huh. So I mean you're gonna want to add if you're gonna add an emulsifier to aerate the beef fat, you're gonna want to add something that is um uh lipophilic, right? So you're gonna you're gonna add uh probably um mono and diglycerides or lecithin, right? Right. But I've never like you'd have to somehow aerate it and keep the aeration stable so that you could chill it, right?
+
+[25:34] Yeah, and that's that's where I'm sort of scratching my head. Like you can sort of maybe get it to you know be like a delicate snowflake for a a few minutes, but how do you get it to stay that way? Mmm. Hmm aerated fat aerated straight fat, not like aerated I mean it would be easy if you uh emulsify the stuff into a water base, right? And made a fake cream and then kind of whip that up like like coo whip, right?
+
+[25:59] Yeah, of course. Like cooip with but you but you want straight fat. Straight fat. Yeah. Uh well let me see chocolate is mostly straight fat and I gotta remember what they use to emulsify chocolate when they make the aerated chocolate stuff.
+
+[26:12] Oh that's interesting. Yeah. I mean of course there is other so there's solids in it, but there's no other liquids in chocolate, right? Right. So and cocoa butter is a little I mean it's firmer, obviously firmer than beef fat, but you can set the sucker up.
+
+[26:25] Uh I mean, if you were to whip air into it, right? Yeah, then wait until it's almost kind of until it started to set up. And you might need to add an emulsifier like monondiglycerides are like less thin or something. Well lesser thin, yeah. Less than might work because that's what they have in chocolate.
+
+[26:40] They don't put monoglycerides in chocolate. And then uh put it in a vacuum machine, suck a vacuum on it so it aerates the same way that like Wiley's aerated foie works, or you know, that's interesting. Yeah, okay. Heston's aerated chocolate or any one of these things, and then um, you know, put that sucker in ice water uh to set it. You might be able to get it to you might be able to get it to work.
+
+[27:01] That's cool. I will uh screw around with it and see what I can get it to to land on. Thanks for the ideas. Hey, no problem. And if anyone else out there has an idea, tweet it on in and we'll tweet it back out.
+
+[27:10] Great, thanks so much. Thank you. Oh, oh, you thanks. Paul Peterson wrote in about the dairy-free ice cream we talked about last week. Just listen to last week's podcast and have a thought about non-dairy ice cream.
+
+[27:19] I don't have my full recipe with me at the moment, but I make mine using soy creamer, heated low on a burner to incorporate sugar and often other flavors, uh, e.g. mint, and then I cool it in the fridge overnight along with a can or two of coconut milk. The next day I scoop the solid fat off the top, blend it with the rest of the base, and then freeze it as indicated. The recipe is surprised many people when they're told it's dairy free, and it's nearly impossible to taste the coconut flavor. Paul Peterson.
+
+[27:40] And uh in addition, uh Ellie Nasser wrote in uh Dave Ari uh regarding dairy-free gelato, modernist cuisine at home makes awesome flavors using nut butter, juice, oil, and cornstarch. Remember Nils and I remember that one we used to make styles like years ago, the pistachio? And then Modernist Cuisine made the same one, and then we were demoing in the same, like, but different. Sorry. Yeah, but the trick with nut butters, if you're gonna use nut butter in a non-dairy ice cream, sucker has to be smooth.
+
+[28:05] Smooth. Which is why, you know, if you're gonna use commercial stuff, a lot of the natural products, like they're kind of grainy. Whereas, you know, you know, our good our good buddies at Jiffy and Skip know how to grind those peanuts until there's some tiny, tiny, tiny, tiny particles so that you can't taste them. And when we were using nut butters to make them uh back at the FCI, uh, you know, we were we were we were first blending them, we were first robokooing them, then vita prepping them, then putting them in a Santa wet grinder to reduce the particle size down to you know almost nothing, and then spinning them in a centerfuge to further get the the the larger particles to settle out so that we had a super creamy thing. And so we got a super creamy result.
+
+[28:44] Your results may vary. Uh uh, okay. Um should we take a quick break? Yeah. Okay, welcome back uh after our first commercial break, cooking issues.
+
+[28:58] Today's program has been brought to you by Rolling Press. Rolling Press is a family-run commercial offset print house that brings together environmentally friendly methods, ethical practices, and personalized service. Founded in 1998 by Eugene Lee and his father, Cam Lee, rolling press represents the harmony of traditional craftsmanship and green technology. Rolling press prints using soy and vegetable inks, uses a variety of certified and recycled papers, and they incorporate a chemical-free production process. For more information, visit rollingpress.com, and we're not going to be able to do that.
+
+[30:28] The song is for uh Harold McGee. He wrote one of my favorite books called On Food and Cooking. You ever want your eye a souffle who rise? It's about gas expansion and water that big bowl is. Yeah, food science rules.
+
+[30:55] His knowledge race. And I answer he sings a day. He's got big brains. It wears a sweater vest, Iconic Harold. Yeah, he's better than you.
+
+[31:29] And just like me, you wanna be a part of his food science crew, or at least I do. Maybe not you, but isn't it obvious? That crazy belt Harold, and he's all shiny for my science fell, and I can't wait until the day that we meeters don't know who'll be the best of friends. What's talk about my reactions? My favorite line, Harold McGee, he's better than you.
+
+[33:08] But I wasn't directing towards you, didn't I? No, it's in general, this in general. I like that. I like that table over there. He watched me.
+
+[33:20] There's a person from Boardwalk Empire here. Yeah, the guy with the killed off one in the second season. I haven't watched it yet! Oh god, whatever. Okay.
+
+[33:31] Well, thank you. Uh we will uh call Harold McGee and ha make sure he listens to that. I wouldn't, if I had known, I could have called him beforehand and had him listen. Well, I don't know what he's doing. He's probably in some other country right now.
+
+[33:41] Who knows? Yeah, he's always flying around the world being Harold with his fabulousness, his mired reactions. Uh Jay Matthew Miller writes in. By the way, Jay Matthew Miller, patent attorney. Said so on his uh on his on his email.
+
+[33:54] Uh hey there, cooking issues gang. The pumps for the New Orleans public water system lost power over the weekend because of a fire in the power generation facility. The loss of power caused a loss of pressure in the water system. As a result, they've issued a boil water alert recommending that everyone bring water to a rolling boil for 60 seconds. Our work coffee machines apparently heat watered at 180 degrees, which is then either kept in a thermal carafe or on a hot plate, so at a temperature for at least a little while.
+
+[34:20] Is 180 degrees Fahrenheit, 82.2 degrees C, hot enough for whatever might be lurking in that water, or is there really a need to bring it to 212 degrees? Uh thanks, love the show. Keep up the good work and can't wait to hear about the Kickstarter. Well, uh, we already talked about the Kickstarter. But uh you are exactly right.
+
+[34:36] Your coffee machine well here's the thing, right? You got two problems here. Water might taste like dirt, right? Might be crap. If that mean like and I don't just mean literally crap.
+
+[34:44] Like the water might taste bad. Now, uh that's not gonna get solved by uh by the boiling, right? Although I guess you could flock stuff out by boiling it, right? Anyway. But um here's the thing.
+
+[34:55] Uh you don't need to heat it up to the boil. In fact, I found some very interesting articles on water pasteurization in places like Africa. Now, uh, in places that don't have uh safe water, or if there's an epidemic going around and they issue a water boiling thing, the problem is it takes a lot of resources to bring actual water to the boil. It takes a lot fewer resources in terms of wood to burn, fuel to use, whatever, to bring water up to a lower temperature. So there's a bunch of articles out there uh that show that in fact uh heating to 65 degrees Celsius is adequate, uh, you know, assuming that everything is heated through to 65 degrees Celsius, is adequate to assure that you uh pasteurize your water such that it's safe to drink.
+
+[35:38] Uh I mean, assuming it doesn't have some inorganic crap in it that's you know, like poison. If it's got poison in it, then boiling's not gonna help it anyway. Poison. Uh so uh they what's really cool is that these guys have developed these, and if you go to, I think it's like solarcooking.com or something like that, uh, these guys have developed this really cool system for use in in places without power, uh, where you make a trough and the sun is heating the water and they have a little vial of a little air-filled vial that has a um solidified soy protein, uh not soy protein, soy fat in it. The soy fat melts at exactly 154 degrees Fahrenheit, and it's in the top of this vial that's fl that's weighted down but is like floating in the water, and you can and the it's down at the bottom, which is the coldest part of the water.
+
+[36:21] And if you look at it and the fats run to the bottom of the tube, it means it's melted and your whole thing came to temperature. So it's a quick verification that your that your stuff is worked, and then you just re melt the fat, invert it, and it's ready to go again. So, yes, uh, it's something I didn't know about. Uh this uh whole uh solar solar pasteurization of water in places, but there you have it, sixty-five. So sixty-five being below eighty two, eighty-two should be good.
+
+[36:46] Right? That's a kind of good question. Okay. Um at uh Barriatua writes in Are there any can't miss technical food events in New York City at the week of March twenty sixth? Nastash, are there any technical food events in the week of March twenty sixth?
+
+[36:59] We're doing something at the Boulet uh kitchen, test kitchen. Yeah, but that's just Bruno Gusseau is coming in and doing a thing, and then we're just going to like chill out for him, right? They're teaching a class? Yeah. Well, there you have it.
+
+[37:12] A chance to see the great Bruno Gusseau at David Boole's test kitchen. There might still be space available. I have no idea. We're supposed to go in and just shill out from a little bit, right? They should go to www.l e c R E A dot com.
+
+[37:28] Wow, I just couldn't pay attention to what you're saying. Say that again. Hey, like me. Are you on zappos? Yeah, yeah.
+
+[37:33] I am. L-E-C-R-E-A.com. Oh, Krea. Yeah, Krea is Bruno Gusseau's uh school. Anyway, okay, okay.
+
+[37:43] Hey guys, I gotta jump in. What up? March 27th, Heritage Radio Network Second Salon Party, which will be on the hunt for the city's best vodka cocktail. Maybe not the most tech event, but still pretty cool. I mean, uh, we make a pretty good vodka cocktail.
+
+[37:58] Okay, okay. Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah. Okay. Uh at Cut Hancock. And there's really there's other ways to read that which are not as uh family friendly.
+
+[38:06] But at cut at Cut Hancock writes in, what is the name of the Apple Preserve in England? I'm traveling to London in two weeks and was hoping to visit. Thanks. Oh, there's not going to be much there now, I think, on the on the trees figured out, but it is the Brogdale, the Brogdale. Uh, and it's it's at it's in Kent uh in a town called Favisham.
+
+[38:23] It's called the Brogdale. Nastash has been there. Nastash and I have been there now a couple times. Or no, you went once and I went once with McGee. Okay.
+
+[38:30] Uh all right. Um let me see. I don't know. Do that one last because I'm gonna scream about it for a long time. Okay.
+
+[38:37] David Wilkie writes in from Huntington Beach, California. Where is that, Sus? On the beach. Duh. Is it north or south?
+
+[38:44] South. Oh, okay. Over where you're from. Mm-hmm. Okay.
+
+[38:47] Uh about eggs. Hey, Dave, Nastasha et al. I recently read uh HCP blah blah blah uh about how to make a naked egg. You just search how to make a naked egg. You can find it.
+
+[38:57] I know it's possible to dissolve the shell off a raw egg using vinegar, which leaves the raw egg intact uh in a semi-permeable membrane. I also know that this ruins the flavor of the egg completely. I popped one open and fried it up post-dissolve. It was awful. Solid vinegar in the shape of a fried egg.
+
+[39:12] Not just vinegar, though, there's also a lot of dissolved calcium in there, and the calcium's gross. Because if you've ever eaten an eggshell, eggshells are not so bueno. You know what I mean? And so, like that calcium, what you're doing with the vinegar is you're taking the calcium carbonate that's in the shell and dissolving it in a solution. So you're probably also getting a nasty calcium taste on top of the vinegar taste.
+
+[39:29] So it's probably a double whammy of nastiness. Anyway, whatever. I also now know you can dehydrate a deshelled egg by soaking it. By the way, here's what doesn't work. You cannot re-eg it.
+
+[39:38] You can't like take the egg after you've dissolved the shell and then put it in calcium hydroxide and have it reincorporate into uh into a shell. A couple people have said that you can, and I tried it. I've tried it like five different times. You can't do it anyway. Why would you want to?
+
+[39:52] Uh I don't know. Like, you know, someone's like, well, I'm gonna like take an egg, like reform it into a new shape, reharden the shell. Like, you know how this you know like the Japanese square egg makers? Right, right, right. Yeah.
+
+[40:02] Which but they, you know, they make squared eggs out of shelled eggs, not out of eggs in the shell. Right. So anyway, whatever. But uh someone said, Can you do it? So I was like, no, no, no, I'll try it.
+
+[40:10] Back when I had more time to try things, and it doesn't work. Doesn't work. Okay. Uh back to Dave's questions. I also know that you can dehydrate a deshelled egg by soaking it in corn syrup.
+
+[40:19] I'm not confident this will make it taste any better, if not somehow worse, so I haven't tried it yet. What got me excited is learning that if you deshell a raw egg in vinegar, then dehydrate it. You can rehydrate it in water. If the raw egg absorbed the flavor of vinegar, I'm thinking it also absorbs some of the flavors present in the liquid to rehydrate it. So why not deshell and dehydrate a raw egg, then rehydrate it with chicken stock or any other flavorful liquid?
+
+[40:42] That's just the first one I thought of. It seems you would be uh you'd be able to get a unique intensity of flavor that would be much different from pickled eggs or tea eggs, and the egg still being raw allows it to be used in other preparations and form. Formza. I'm imagining preparations uh like flavor-infused fried eggs, for example. Uh so the first issue I'm having is dissolving the shell without ruining the flavor.
+
+[41:00] Uh, and then after that, how else could you go about dehydrating it without corn syrup? Will corn syrup osmosis harm the flavor? Is there a better method maybe storing with desiccant packs, blah, blah, blah. Well, no, I don't think desiccant pacts are gonna work. You're probably gonna want to use osmosis, otherwise you're gonna have otherwise you're gonna have some problems.
+
+[41:14] The issue is look, the real question is what we don't know is what can make what I don't know, I should say, you might know, is uh what can go through. The key thing is semi-permeable. So the question is what can go through and what can't. Uh clearly, if the inside of your thing tasted like vinegar, then vinegar can make it through the membrane, right? Clearly, water can make it through the membrane.
+
+[41:33] That's why osmosis is working. Uh can protein make it through the membrane? I would guess not. So, you know, uh, can other peptides make it through the membrane? Meh, I don't know.
+
+[41:44] So the the question is which flavors are going to be able to transfer through? Like, can you get sugars through? Can you get, I mean, clearly vinegar you can get through. So it's a question of what can go through and and what can't. Uh as a question of what you can do uh for flavoring it.
+
+[41:59] But it it it sounds interesting. I have to give it kind of more thought rather than just a morning thinking about it. This is the kind of thing that, you know, as Joel is saying, McGee has probably thought of once or twice. Probably. He's he's thought of everything.
+
+[42:10] He well, yeah, he's he does think of it, because he just sits around thinking, and he doesn't tell you about it until he's pretty sure he's right. That's the thing about McGee. He doesn't just he doesn't just go spouting off. Uh so um I wouldn't think desiccant packets would work because what you want to do, you don't want to have a case hardening situation, which you would probably get in the membrane, you probably turn it into a thing. Uh also I would go with a very high acid vinegar so that you could dissolve the shell extremely quickly and not wait for all the acid to diffuse through the membrane if you want to get less in.
+
+[42:40] So go buy if you go to Russian stores, you can buy 10% vinegar, which is pretty hardcore. Uh I have some. Remember, Stas, when we went to go get Kavas and I bought all that 10% vinegar? 10% vinegar, badass. And then you could probably also uh neutralize the vinegar somewhat, although that will still leave some acetic taste if you've ever tasted uh acetates, different acetates, uh you know, uh vinegar salts.
+
+[43:01] Anyway, but uh give that a shot. Sorry, I do not have more good information with that. Um wait, we have we're we actually have a little bit of time. We do. I sped through that so fast.
+
+[43:13] Uh, by the way, Jason uh Bizant wrote in to you, Nastasha, just checking is this the correct email address to send a question? And clearly, since I'm reading it, it is it is uh would love to call, but I live in Tasmania and then in Parents, Australia. Like, really? You're calling out the Australia, you're not like Tas Tasman Pride that you're just like, I'm from Tasmania. Like, we don't know where that is.
+
+[43:32] You gotta remember, everyone in the United States grew up with the Tasmanian devil. We all know where Tasmania is. Like, ask us any other like country or place. We have no idea where the hell it is. But like everyone's like, Tasmanian devil, I gotta look up where that thing comes from, and they go look at them, right?
+
+[43:48] I'm pretty sure I don't know where Prague is. No, yeah, but Tasmania? Absolutely. Yeah, hell yeah. As far as I'm concerned, this is the Tasmanian devil writing in to cooking issues.
+
+[43:57] Yeah, right? As far as you know, Tasmanian devils are like kind of awesome. Like, because like you've seen their mouths when they open their mouths? No. Oh man, just Google the Tasmania because Dax, my son has done this many times.
+
+[44:08] He's like, Tasmanian devils. He's like, who would win? A Tasmanian devil or a Wolverine. I was like, Dax, that just doesn't come up. That just doesn't come up.
+
+[44:15] You know? Uh okay. Uh Al Salstrom wrote in. Can one use gentian, quinine, etc. as beer as a beer bittering agents?
+
+[44:28] Do different herbs produce noticeably different bitter flavors? Obviously, hop flavorslash aroma involves a lot that goes beyond that, but I'm curious about the differences in bitter compounds. Okay, look. Bitter, unlike acid. First, I'm not going to get into like what I believe and what I what I don't believe or my uh the fact that I'm freaked out that different acids have uh different flavors even though they're non-volatile and even though they don't all have bitter components, right?
+
+[44:53] I don't I still don't fully understand why it is that malic acid tastes different than citric acid. But to a first order approximation, sourness is a relatively simple flavor in that uh it it it activates one type of receptor only in your tongue. Uh ditto with sugar. Different sugars have different flavors because they have different onsets of sweetness and different different uh aftertastes and different off notes, for instance. I hate stevia.
+
+[45:19] Can we buy IHate Stevia.com or is that already taken? I can check. Does anyone like stevia? Oh god, no. No, this stuff sucks.
+
+[45:25] Like, just hey, I'd rather have no sugar than have that stevia crap. That stuff is ruined. And then they're like, well, I came up with a way that I can mask the awful taste of the stevia. Me too. I don't use it.
+
+[45:35] Sucks. It feels like I'm like I'm chewing on a soap bar. Yeah, it's awful. And like you're like someone will hand it to you, and then it like it leaves this poisonous aftertaste. It's horrible.
+
+[45:44] The domains available. Oh can we buy I hate stevia dot com? Jack, can you buy that? It's fifteen bucks. Yeah, we'll do it.
+
+[45:53] Done. Boom! Anyone out there who wants it, write in and we'll give you an email address at I hate stevia.com. Okay. Do the other one that you want to buy.
+
+[46:03] Which one? I hate. I hate which one. I hate.me. Are you?
+
+[46:07] Oh, is that available? Everyone hates that one. Oh, yeah, everyone hates.me. That's available? Yeah, because I just opened the Montenegro.
+
+[46:13] They just opened the Montenegro website, uh, you know, domains.me. And so I was gonna get everybody hates dot me, and then I could be like, I'm David, everybody hates.me. That'd be pretty awesome. You want to buy that one too, Jack, while we're at it? Indie Jesus.me also available.
+
+[46:29] Oh! But he's the only one that can what what what would his address be? Me at indiees.me. Yeah. Uh okay.
+
+[46:37] Back to the question. Back to the question. Stay on task. So, um so here's the thing. Uh coup couple of things with bitterness.
+
+[46:46] Uh so sweetness is like a a similar receptor, sourness, ditto salt. Bitterness i there are many different bitter receptors on your tongue. So uh there's all these different uh umami, I guess also, uh s what one one set of things. But bitterness has many different receptors, and so there are consequently very many different types of bitterness. In fact, uh I taste a lot of bitter things, but I I'm a very low taster for prop, which is what they use to determine whether so uh depending on our genetics, you know, some of us will have either a very, very strong reaction to the chemical prop, who's I can't remember what the name of the thing is.
+
+[47:25] Right. And those people in in general uh are l are called super tasters, and it used to be thought, and by so some people still is thought that your ability to taste prop uh correlated with the number of taste buds and therefore how well you could taste uh other things. Uh Professor Zucker at Columbia says that's a load of horse hockey, but whatever, you know, nobody knows. So uh so prop, you can uh totally lack the gene for tasting prop, and you're called a non-taster, or you could be a regular taster somewhere in between. You guys ever taken the prop test?
+
+[47:57] No. Yeah, you put the strip on your thing, and some people will think it just tastes like paper, and some people will be like blah, and then some people be somewhere in the middle. I can bear barely, if at all, taste it, right? But other bitter compound compounds I'm extremely sensitive to. So uh, and it just is this one category of bitter receptors that you know I'm deficient in.
+
+[48:15] Stasi, well, what's your stuff? Do you like I don't remember? You don't remember? No. Uh anywho, uh so the the the point is is that bitterness can be very different depending on your doing what you're doing.
+
+[48:25] But it's like you know, quinine, super freaking bitter, you know what I mean? So you can use it, but it's not gonna be the same bitterness that you get in beer. Now, bittern and and you can get many beers. There's a the old form of beer uh was called uh one of the old forms was called uh gruet, uh and it's uh herbed beer without hops. Remember, hops, although in use for a long time in beer in uh Germany and in that area, didn't spread throughout the rest of Europe until relatively late, like in the 14-15 hundreds, right?
+
+[48:56] Uh, and didn't become dominant until like around that time, I think 14, 15, maybe even a little bit later in every area. And so some people have even tried to bring back beer styles that don't have any hops in them. I mean, most notable were the ones I used to get. There's a Scottish beer company, and I have it somewhere in this mass of letters that I have on my thing. But I've tried their beer.
+
+[49:14] They have a Heather beer, they have a kelp beer. I like the Heather beer, but not the Kelper. And a pine beer. The pine beer I actually really liked with spruce. But hops is not the only thing it's not the bitterness is not the only reason it's there.
+
+[49:30] Also, it's there because hops acts as an antimicrobial as a preservative in beer. So if you're gonna have uh uh a hop free beer, you want to make sure that you're not gonna have other things growing in it. Now, hops, the article to look at uh is I have it here written down for you. Uh beer spoilage bacteria and hop resistance. And you can get the whole thing on the internet.
+
+[49:56] And it has a really interesting history of hops using and and what it's doing. Hops destroys what are called gram positive bacteria. So bacteria divide one of the ways to divide bacteria roughly is into gram positive and gram negative bacteria. And it was based on this guy, Graham from Denmark, these Danish people, Danes. Uh no offense, love danes, love danes.
+
+[50:15] Anyway, so uh he this developed this way of staining bacteria to look at them under the microscope, and you know, didn't didn't really understand the significance of it. It turns out that it it's actually quite significant, not just to whether or not it stains a particular color, but to what the outside of the like what the outside of the bacteria is, whether it has a uh you know an extra lipid layer on the outside of the bacteria. So it actually is a good way to determine like whole different sections of bacteria. Anyway, some gram positive bacteria of interest are uh lactobacillus and uh Petiococcus, and these bacteria are some of the most common spoilers bacteria in beer, giving it nasty ropiness and kind of lactic off flavors, right? And hops nukes those things, right?
+
+[50:58] Whereas gram-negative things like acetobacter, it doesn't get as heavily affected. And right now, actually, it's weird. There's some there's some uh lacto uh there's some lactic acid bacteria that are becoming resistant to hops and they're becoming of renewed interest. Uh and when I was reading this, I learned here's some other nasty ones. Here's some nasty uh all uh gram things that aren't killed by hops.
+
+[51:19] Ready for these? Uh pectinitis, which provides extensive turbidity and an offensive rotten egg smell. And my favorite, megasphera, the production of hydrogen sulfide causes a fecal odor in beer. That's my favorite part of beer. My favorite is the fecal odor, which makes this bacterium one of the most feared organisms for brewers.
+
+[51:38] Right? Good news is no one kill you. None of this stuff will kill you. My brother's actually a brewer. Really?
+
+[51:43] Yeah, he owns a brewery and uh just started up called Thimble Island Brewery in uh Brantford, Connecticut. Oh, yeah. Yeah. Oh, Thimble Island, you know, I never went out there. Here it's nice out there though.
+
+[51:51] Thimble Islands. I was actually on one of those tour boats when I was a kid, and I was I was a first mate. Yeah? And then I got fired. For hopefully not for excessive Thimble Island beer drinking.
+
+[52:01] No, no, no. I I fell asleep and he ran over a buoy and he got mad. Uh yeah, well, there you have it. Yeah. Buoys.
+
+[52:09] Booyah. But anyway, yeah, so uh he hasn't run into a fecal smelling uh problem in his beer, but I'm gonna make him aware of it. Well, why don't we ship them a uh uh a sample of megasphera bacteria can mix it in and we can make some some strong some thimble island fecal beer. Do you think that would sell in Brooklyn? It seems like some people would catch on to.
+
+[52:26] I I guarantee you it would sell out here. So all you gotta do is tell them that it makes them more hip. They could put on their Grato headphones and drink their fecal beer and they'll they'll love it. Alright, which brings me to the last thing before we have to leave No, okay, I love you, Brooklyn. Come on.
+
+[52:38] Okay. Which brings me to my last thing. Uh Miller High Life, the champagne of beers, right? We're all familiar with the Miller High Life, correct? So Miller High Life, we serve it in the bar in the little miniature pony bottles, which these tiny bottles, as a garnish.
+
+[52:53] If the beer is a garnish to a salty drink we make called the Corsair. The Corsair, we we uh we spin clarify, we blend and spin clarified lemons, not to make them 100% clear, but just to make them thinner so that they work in a shaking drink and to get rid of a lot of the albedo, which we melt with uh pectin X ultra SPO. So preserved lemon, uh Moroccan style, hence Corsair, you know, Moroccan pirates, and uh lime juice and tequila, and makes a super salty drink that I like, and then we serve it with this little uh like pony of Miller High Life as the garnish. Now here's the thing. Uh how is it for all of because everyone knows who thinks about beer that hops when expos hop compounds, right, which is uh humulones get decomposed uh in war in the wort boiling to isohumulones, which are the actual bidding bittering agents that are soluble in water.
+
+[53:43] Uh so it's isohumulones that are there, iso alpha acids as they're known, and these suckers in the in the presence of ultraviolet light, right, uh break down and form skunky components by scavenging sulfur in it. And a really good uh really good um treatment of it that I thought was very readable and seemed accurate from what I can remember and what I know, is Light Strike in uh in advance uh Light Strike Advanced Brewing uh by Chris Bible. The guy's name is Chris Bible. How can you forget it? But he has a little web article that's really nice on it where he actually tells you what the compounds are that are being broken apart in a very readable way that I thought was very good.
+
+[54:19] So go check it out for stuff on Light Strike. But here is the interesting part. Miller High Life comes in a clear bottle and does not get skunked. How do you do it? I don't know.
+
+[54:30] Yeah, right. Neither did I. They use uh these uh uh hop acid extracts that have been dorked with so that they don't skunk out anymore. And on the way out, I'm just gonna read you what they do. Um under under Chris Bible's section, another approach of protecting beer from light strike.
+
+[54:47] Apart from storing beer in light proof containers, which is duh the right way to do it, except for the fact that Miller High Life's bottle is so awesome that you don't want to mess with Miller High Life just to keep the beer good, right? Kidding. Uh but the uh kidding. Uh so apart from storing beer in lightproof containers, the photosensitivity of beer can be reduced by chemically altering the isoalpha acids so that the chemical precursor to the photochemical reaction responsible for producing light struck, aka skunked flavor, is not present within the beer. Iso alpha acids can be converted to reduced isoalpha acids by hydrogenation or by reaction with sodium borohydride.
+
+[55:22] Three major types of reduced isoacids can be produced dihydro, tetrahydro, and hexahydro. Interestingly, I don't have time to read the whole thingamajig, but interestingly, they still break apart when they're hit by light, but the stuff that's broken apart doesn't form the nasty skunkiness. And this is how Miller High Life, the champagne of beers, can maintain the clarity and beauty of its pony-sized bottles without having the skunk flavor. Thank you, Joel! Till next week, cooking issues.
+
+[55:53] Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes Store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore Radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage Radio network. Heritage Radio Network is a non profit organization.
+
+[56:14] To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Hearst Ranch, the nation's largest single source supplier of free range, all natural, grass-fed and grass finished beef. For more information, visit Hearstranch.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Cooking issues!
+
+[1:02] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live in the back of Robertus Pizzeria in Book Reap Brooklyn, joined with is Joe still on tour? Yeah. How's it going, the tour? Pretty good.
+
+[1:12] We just checked in with him. He's uh he was on the road driving to Austin, doing a million shows in between, screaming his brains out. Nice, screaming his brains out. Good call. Uh okay, so not with Joe, but with Jack and of course always Nastasha the Hammer Lopez.
+
+[1:24] How are you doing, Mastada? Good, thank you. Yeah? Two and one? Good.
+
+[1:27] Call your closures to 7184972128. That's 718497-2128. Gonna get right into it today. Morton Madsen from Denmark writes in. Hi Dave et al.
+
+[1:37] Question on quail eggs. I've been making a quail egg recipe based on the NOMA cookbook called Hey Smoked Quail Eggs. I'm not gonna pronounce it like he writes it in Danish, like I can pronounce that thing. Herberged vi vagtaleg to leg. What do you think?
+
+[1:51] That's pretty good. Yeah? Alright, okay. Uh in the recipe of the eggs, although you know what? I was in Denmark for a day, and like it's so weird, it s doesn't sound like uh whatever, anyway.
+
+[1:59] Okay. In the recipe, uh the eggs are blanched for one minute, 30 seconds, then cooled, then blanched for 50 seconds, and then cooled again to set the white. So the idea being to double blanch, I would presume. I don't own the cookbook, I haven't read the recipe, but the double blanch, I assume, is to hit the whites as hard as possible without overcooking the yolk. I mean, it seems to me that's why.
+
+[2:19] That's why. That's the guess. Okay, after this step, the eggs are peeled. The recipe then goes on to smoke the eggs for 20 minutes with hay and then pickle the eggs before they're served with smoke from a smoking gun. For my recipe, I skipped the hay smoking step and instead put the eggs in a water bath at 64 C for 45 minutes to slightly set the egg yolk.
+
+[2:37] By the way, six uh 45 minutes way more than you need for quail eggs. Quail eggs cook through in like under 15. There's the they're so fast. Remember, uh the the speed at which like you double the size of something and the amount of time it takes to cook through to the center for a given set of uh variables is multiplied by four, not by two, and the same thing goes in the other direction. You reduce something by one half, and it's a quarter of the time it takes to cook.
+
+[3:03] So it quail eggs cook incredibly quickly. Anyway, which is why presumably they're only blanched for 30 seconds and then 50 seconds. Okay, okay. Uh my question is the following Is there any easy way to peel the eggs? He stumbled upon one of our favorite things to make other people do, which is peel quail eggs.
+
+[3:19] Rice? I used to love doing that to interns. Peel these quail eggs, and then we sit there and yell at them when they ruin them all. Okay. Is there an easy way to peel the eggs?
+
+[3:27] As of now, it is a pain. I've used a pair of tweezers and carefully peeled them. That sucks. The time spent per egg is long, and even still I end up destroying half the eggs, true. I do seem to struggle with the fact that the membrane of the quail eggs seems to be extremely tough.
+
+[3:40] You're correct. Uh I do prick a small hole to puncture the air cell in the bottom of the egg. Without this, the egg white above the air cell does not set as much, presumably due to the insulating effect of the air cell. So far, I've tried to use older eggs. Uh uh as uh at least for chicken eggs, older eggs are easier to peel.
+
+[3:56] And you're wondering why this is the case, which I'll explain in a minute. I've tried modernist cuisine trick of blowtorching the eggs to make them easier to peel. However, this result uh resulted in either exploding eggs because of excess heating or too little to no effect on the peeling. Do you know what the desired effect of the blowtorch is? Yeah, I'm pretty sure it's to uh uh dry and expand the shell at that one point to help it pull away from the membrane.
+
+[4:16] The whole point well, we'll get we'll get into it. By the way, Paul Adams, our our buddy and popular science writer who is testing our our blowtorch thing on a jiggy right now. He says that uh the torch thing is good for peeling the eggs because you don't get the scorch marks on it. Anyway, nice. Um however this results in exploded eggs or blah blah blah.
+
+[4:35] Do you know what the desired effect of the blowtorch is? Is it a question of generating steam beneath the membrane to detach it, or is it to dry out the shell or something else? At least some combination of all those things. I've read that pressure cooking is sometimes employed on commercial scale to cook eggs, since this could make peeling easier. I, however, see no way of doing this on the s uh on the small quail eggs.
+
+[4:52] I do, however, make sure to have a rolling boil when I blanch the eggs. Maybe I can steam my eggs from the vent uh on the pressure cooker. I've also seen examples of people removing the shell with an acid but expect the egg to become inedible after this treatment. Another consideration will be using the technique seen on this video, and I'll tell you what the video is. Um the video is this guy, and you can get there's this one, there's also a crazier, crazier one of a guy with like a hardcore Scottish accent and no teeth.
+
+[5:17] I think it was Scottish. Anyway, so you hard-boil the egg, you break the egg on the t-on uh like a little bit on two sides, and then you put your mouth over it. Here's where Nastasha starts cringing, and you literally blow the egg out of the shell. You keep the you keep the shell uh intact on the sides, you create air pressure behind it and blow the egg out. And I've seen it on the YouTube a couple of times.
+
+[5:34] Let me just say this is not recommended procedure if you're going to serve people uh food. No. No. I mean Nastasha would do it and serve it to you, but she wouldn't want you to do it and serve it to her. Mm-mm I wouldn't do it.
+
+[5:46] You wouldn't? For your own egg you'd do it. Yeah. Yeah. Anyway.
+
+[5:50] Okay. But uh that technique brings an interesting question. If you are going to do soft so I'm gonna start with something you didn't ask because it's my nature. It's in my nature to do that. We uh used to have a thing where we would try to circulate uh soft quail eggs at 62 and 63 Celsius, right?
+
+[6:07] So the egg the white's still kind of really gloopy. And then the question is how do you crack them out of the shell the same way that you crack chicken eggs out of the shell that are at 62 and 63 because it's almost impossible to do it you know normally by just cracking it and opening because as you rightly point out the membrane of the quail eggs is incredibly tough. So here's the way to do that we uh the little quail egg toppers the little quail egg cutters they look like cigar cutters you uh you take the egg and you clip both the fat and the thin end of the egg so that you have air hitting both sides and then you can shake out the uh the egg gently onto you know whatever you want toast or whatever and I found that we get almost zero breakage when you're getting when you're taking quail eggs out that way. So we went from almost entire breakage where we'd have to you know get twice as many quail eggs as we needed to almost no breakage when we're doing quail eggs that way. So it's just clip both sides and shake it out.
+
+[7:01] And what reminded me of that is that is head freak Show blowing the egg out with his uh hard-boiled egg out with his mouth. Okay. Um the the the article you should first of all the article you should read in general, and it's available on uh the internet for free is the effects of cooking methods on peelability and peer and appearance of eggs by Kenneth N. Hall and Hong Wan Li out of 1997 in Good Old Stores, Connecticut, up there at Yukon where they did the study, right? If you have a copy of uh Stedelman's uh Egg Science and Technology, that's an okay reference too, but really just for a succinct um you know description of what's going on, that that 77 uh article is great.
+
+[7:42] So here's the deal. Uh old eggs are better for two reasons, and it depending on who you go to, even on the egg uh dairy council, egg board or whatever it is, incredible level egg, they they will only talk about one or the other of the reasons why older eggs are good, but not both at the same time. Here's what happens. As eggs age, CO2 leaves. As CO2 leaves, the uh egg whites become more alkaline, right?
+
+[8:05] Uh and simultaneously the air sac between the two membranes and in the fat part of the egg becomes larger. As that membrane becomes larger, there's more air in there, and air between those two membranes facilitates peeling, and so that uh facilitates peeling. However, the increased uh alkaline nature of the egg white also debonds the protein or makes the protein bond less strongly from the white to the membrane and therefore also facilitates peeling. So it's a dual effect of increased air in that egg in the in the thing and of um and of increased alkalinity over storage, which is why very fresh eggs can be difficult to peel. In the 1977 study, they uh they they found that piercing the the fat end of the egg where the air sac is does not necessarily help in peelability.
+
+[8:51] The bad news is is that the the actual data for all this stuff is all over the map. Pressure cooking, right? It turns out that the majority of the benefit, first of all, also you're gonna get better peelability if the eggs go into hot water. All the studies show that putting in cold water and bringing it up, it causes the eggs to be less peelable. Although there will be more cracking of the eggs if you put them into hot water initially.
+
+[9:15] But the eggs that don't crack and get destroyed that way will be easier to peel if they go into uh simmering or boiling water as opposed to being brought slowly up from cold. All right. So though that those are two things that affect it. Also, the way you crack it affects it. So the the way that they uh they if you if you go on the internet and you want a fascinating thing, look up egg peeling machines, and you can sit there and watch these machines various ways peeling eggs, but they all do some variant of the uh crack and roll to break the shell up into a bunch of pieces but leave the membrane intact so that you then can peel it off without it shatter without it um without it ripping the egg.
+
+[9:51] So there's that. But this the pressure cooking is very interesting, and um I've never done this technique, but I looked into it and it's it's mentioned in the article from 1977, and a lot of uh stuff was done on it, I think by Hit Hip Pressure Cook, who you know we've spoken to on the uh on the Twitter a couple of times, and she she might have written in here once, I don't know. But uh she was doing uh pressure cooking of peeling eggs, and and the here's the deal. Uh it turns out that it's not, and it's written in the 77 article, it's not the high temperature of the pressure cooker that is in fact making the eggs easier to peel. What it is is is you do a quick release of the pressure uh after they're cooked, and the quick release of the pressure causes uh the shells to like pu puff out a little bit from the egg and rupture and therefore make it easier to get the eggs off uh to get the shell off of the egg.
+
+[10:39] So the question is how can you do that in a quail egg because quail egg uh cooks so fast? Well, you have to be quick on your toes which means if you have to be able to get your pressure cooker up to pressure extremely quickly like extremely quickly and by that I mean very fast so uh you know like you want as much water as you can in there like a small load of eggs uh close it or if you have an autoclave or like a Frankie commercial pressure cooker that can get up and down like in a matter of seconds you might be able to get the eggs out fast enough to not overcook them. I don't know. But it's it's definitely the pressure uh going you could also probably literally just uh put the eggs under pressure in like an ISI or something like that uh and then just vent the pressure real quick and have the eggs pop open but I'm just thinking of that as we're saying I I haven't really thought of it. I haven't I mean I've thought of it because I just told you about it but I I haven't tested it because I just thought about it.
+
+[11:26] Uh one I had one last thing to say on egg egg peelability but it's out of my head. I guess uh it doesn't exist anymore. It couldn't have been that important. I feel like it was very important but you know who knows? I'll never remember because I don't remember what I've already said and what I haven't said.
+
+[11:39] Anyway I hope that's somewhat helpful uh on eggs and their relative peelability. Okay. Uh Ivan writes in on Vermouth. Hey Nastasha Dave, Jack, and Joe Although Joe, no shouts to you because you're shouting your head off out there in Austin right? Yeah.
+
+[11:53] Yeah. Exactly. Yeah if you're not here no shouts if you're not here. You know what I mean? No love unless you're in the studio.
+
+[11:59] That's how that's how it works. Uh there is an Aaron Fairbanks in the studio. Oh Aaron uh Aaron Aaron from Heritage Radio Network you want to come in and make a pitch for the radio for the radio network Aaron while you're in take a short break from talking about Ivan's Vermouth question to do a pitch for the uh for the Heritage Radio Network and all the good things that uh they do. Welcome, Aaron. How are you doing?
+
+[12:20] I'm doing great. Thanks for having me. Yeah, nice. Nice. I like it.
+
+[12:23] I like a little pop in. Anyone feel free to pop in as a uh you know, guest. So uh so what's going on? What's going on with the Heritage Radio these days? Now what's not going on?
+
+[12:30] Things are blowing up. We've got tons of great people coming through the studio to do interviews. We're reaching out to college campuses across the nation, trying to get the most radical progressive thinkers and food coming to the network, sharing what's going on in their communities and just building on the existing stuff, like the great work you guys do on cooking issues. Yeah, man, we wanna we wanna be giving space for all voices. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[12:56] That's why that's why we have Musta Nastash and I are together because you know, we uh never agree almost, right? I mean, she won't talk about it on the air, but you all know how she feels because I'll go off on it. So that's what you need. Speaking of uh people disagreeing on air, how are we doing with the uh Museum of Food and Drinks series? We're gonna it's gonna happen, right?
+
+[13:13] It's totally gonna happen. I'm super excited. We get some amazing people in here. What we wanna do is have strong conversations where people are maybe yelling, but not yelling necessarily over each other or particularly at each other. Um but I think yeah, moving forward, looking to hear from your guy Peter, and then we're gonna rock and roll.
+
+[13:30] Yeah, sounds good. Yeah, we are we're already uh talking about some topics that we're gonna bring up. And uh I mean I think the format is gonna be probably that I'm just gonna ask questions of people, moderate them, and hopefully, you know, at the end of it, we'll have to break out the Crisco for the big wrestling match, right? You know, I'm more of a fan of jello pudding, but if Chris goes away to go, you are the expert. Well, we can we can go either way.
+
+[13:51] I mean, I was thinking more of like kind of you know, uh trying to pick up a greased pig. I'm more of a gr I never went to a jello wrestling thing, but I have seen people try to pick up greased pigs, and it's hilarious. I'm thinking more again at the college campus outreach, you know, it's just a thing that students relate to. The jello thing, yeah. Yeah, I see.
+
+[14:06] I'm too old. I don't know, you know, it's to me. I'm like, you're wasting all that jello, all that knocks. Could have been used for something good. Anyway.
+
+[14:13] Anyway, I do want to I do want to make a little pitch for membership. I mean, the cooking issues, uh, team cooking issues listeners are definitely uh one of our primary sources for membership, and that's really the one of the main funding streams that keeps the station going, allows us to build out new programs to bring you more Dave, to bring you more Nastasha. And to buy us more, and pizza. Yeah, thank you to Robertas. Thank you to everyone who sponsors and everyone who supports, and we hope that you know, you out there listening, will want to be part of that too.
+
+[14:47] Yeah, nice. Cooking issues. Earth ranch grass-fed beef. Oh yeah! Pasture raised on 150,000 acres in Central California.
+
+[16:11] Whoa. Hearst Ranch, grass-fed beef, free range, sustainably produced. Humane. Hearst ranch, grass-fed beef. The authentic flavor of the American West.
+
+[16:30] Woo. Damn Skippy. Damn Skippy. Love that thing. Okay, new new competition.
+
+[16:41] Submit your cover version of the Hearst Ranch grass-fed beef song. Oh yeah. Right? Oh, yeah. Yeah.
+
+[16:48] What do they get? Hearst wrench beef. Grass-fed beef. That's fair. That's what they get.
+
+[16:54] That's fair. That's fair. That's fair business right here. I'll make that happen. Alright.
+
+[16:58] I like that. Alrighty. Uh, okay. Oh, uh, speaking of which, Jack, we have a question later. I'm gonna give you some heads up right now.
+
+[17:05] They want recommendations in Brooklyn. I have a couple of. Oh, we connected with John, yeah. Yeah, but you know that I have uh like an aversion to crossing water unless I have to. Not really.
+
+[17:14] I mean, I'm not afraid of water or bridges, but I'm just joking about it. But like, you know, Nastasha and I, I don't never eat out. Nastasha eats out all the time because I got the kids. I'm I'm home with the kids. But um Nastasha eats out quite a bit, but prefers to eat out in Manhattan.
+
+[17:25] But we have some recommendations for Brooklyn. But think about it. Think about it for a minute. I was thinking Nastasia would handle that one because she's Miss Brooklyn, you know. I heard she was opening a restaurant in Brooklyn, actually.
+
+[17:36] Yeah, right? A uh craft beer bar, actually, Jack. Well you know, we could really use a craft beer bar out here in Brooklyn. I know, there's nothing out here. You can't, you know.
+
+[17:45] Anyway, there's no there's no Brooklyn pride or love of beer out here. None. None. Cocktails, forget it. No, it's just nothing.
+
+[17:52] Nothing. Nothing. It's all McDonald's out here. Okay. Uh Ivan writes in.
+
+[17:56] Hi, uh, Anastasia, Dave, Jack, and Joe. First, love the show. Discovered a few months ago. I've been making my way through the back catalog. I'm around episode number sixty.
+
+[18:03] Ouch, you got a long way to go. Uh, right. Just skip it all. It's all useless, no, I'm kidding. Uh, you've made my commute much more fun and helped uh quite a bit with my cooking knowledge.
+
+[18:12] I've recently got my hands on some wormwood, and I'm thinking about making my own vermouth. I live in Toronto, and the iron fist of the provincial alcohol monopoly only gives us a very limited number of choices. Martini and Rossi, Cenzano, Noy Pratt and Stock. And not only oh, uh not only that, they charge you way too much. The tax in Canada, I was shocked.
+
+[18:30] Shocked. I went to Vancouver a year and a half ago with Don Lee, the master of all, like kind of back of the like the Don Lee, master, anyway. So um, it turns out that uh bottles of Hendrix there are like little gold nuggets, and we were able to carry them around and trade them for large amounts of delicious sandwiches uh from the street trucks because your alcohol laws are so nutty in terms of the uh uh the taxes there. Anyway, I I digress. More to the point, they're all sold in largest bottles, which sit for month months in my fridge, eventually going flat.
+
+[18:58] Uh flat meaning I guess oxidized, not flat, because they're not carbonated anyway. I'm a home consumer and my wife is not particularly fond of vermouth cocktails. You gotta work on that. You gotta work on your wife there, Ivan. Gotta get, you know what?
+
+[19:10] If you got the higher quality vermo is it, if she likes cocktails at all, right? Unless she's only a citrus cocktail person. If you get the right vermouse, you can probably get her on the on the Vermouth Vermouth cocktails. Um okay, uh first of all, before we even go any further with the rest of this question, hold on a second. Uh like I'm gonna say this.
+
+[19:26] What you should do is get a bunch of smaller bottles, get your vermouth, bottle it in the smaller bottles with almost zero head space, cap them and keep them in the fridge, and they'll last almost indefinitely that way because they won't further oxidize, right? Once once the once you've gotten all of the air out of them. All right. But uh so I would say that uh and then you have a question in a second about like how to make your own. I'm gonna get to that, but first caller, you're on the air.
+
+[19:52] Hey Dave, it's Mike from Fort Collins, Colorado. How you doing? Good. How are you? All right.
+
+[19:58] Uh I got a question about using a circulator for making cheese. I'm wondering if you've ever done that and you know how I'd go about doing that. No, I mean, uh so presumably the for those of you that never made cheese before, one of the critical um one of the critical aspects of uh the production is exactly the temperature to which the uh curd is heated during the renting thing because it determines a lot of things about the final pay structure. Presumably that's why you want to do it, right? Yeah, exactly, because it's easy to scorch and stuff.
+
+[20:28] Sure. Uh so the problem with uh I mean uh the the main problem with it is is that I mean you can't directly circulate it or you'll completely gum up the works, and you know, you don't want to have that much movement in the thing. So, you know, you could you could do um bath in bath in bath, you know what I mean, where you where you stick a uh like a stainless steel like half hotel pan into a like a lexan, fill it, you know, put it up with water, clamp the clamp the hotel pan down to the lexan with uh with spring clamps so that it doesn't pop around because I'll tell you what that's irritating, having had it happen to me many times. Uh and then circulate it. The problem is is that your heat transfer is going to be quite limited.
+
+[21:11] So it I mean not limited, but in other words, uh when you're heating with a uh a a a flame or something like that, right? You know, you're using a large delta T and a hue and a large thermal input in there to get the temperature up relatively quickly. Now you'll get a relatively large thermal input but your your delta T between what you want in the curd and what you're heating with is going to be uh you know minuscule. Now you can set the water bath like ten degrees Celsius higher than you want to go and then just monitor very carefully and you won't scorch but you still have the problem that you might overheat it. And then at the end you can turn it turn it down so that it it gets up.
+
+[21:46] But that that's an easy way to do it. Now if you for some reason wanted massive circulation once you once the stuff breaks and you and you have we and reasonable size particles you can wrap a um you can wrap a circulator in cheesecloth. I don't know that I'd recommend it though because I've never seen a recipe that requires that much agitation like a circulator would provide. I don't know what it would do to the to the the structure of it to have it like literally pumping through like that. Do you know what I'm saying?
+
+[22:15] Yeah I feel like all recipes want it to be pretty stagnant. Yeah. I mean or like you know the such stirring to the extent that they want to you know accomplish certain things or if you're cutting the uh or if you're cutting the curd apart like in a cheddaring process or any one of those things or you're breaking it but not like constant pumping around. I've never seen a recipe that advocates constant pumping around. You know what I mean?
+
+[22:36] Yeah I haven't either. Yeah. But try the bath and bath and give yourself like a like a like a delta T of like maybe 10 C and then when it starts getting close you can turn it down and then you can like soak it at whatever temperature you want for you know however long you want. I mean the circulator is fantastic for that. Cool.
+
+[22:53] I'll give it a try and let you guys know how it goes. Alright, yeah, good luck. Uh tweet us over on someone tell me what happened. Cool. Thanks.
+
+[22:58] Alright, cool. Back to Ivan. Okay, so uh now where I last left you, Ivan, uh, I was trying to help you keep your vermouth lasting longer. And by the way, when you come to the United States, buy yourself some, because we have an amazing selection of vermouths nowadays down here that are a ma delicious, and buy some and bring bring them home and then you know, trade them on the street for sandwiches. Uh, but you uh you continue.
+
+[23:19] I've looked at recipes online, and they all suggest boiling the botanicals in a bit of the wine for about 10 minutes and then mixing it with the rest of the wine, sugar, and fortifying with brandy. The problem is this would also yield a full bottle size, which would end up going equally stale. Although I told you you could solve that problem by putting them in like micro bottles and then only using what you need. Also, uh a vacu van on the top of the bottle in between uses in the fridge uh is uh is is also helpful with that. Um I thought a possible solution would be to infuse the botanicals in the brandy at room temperature, filter them, and then have the vermouth base that would last much longer.
+
+[23:57] In this way, if I uh have a glass of white wine left over, I could just mix in an adequate uh proportion of vermouth base and sugar and have a truly small batch of homemade vermouth. As a side benefit, I could use the same base for sweet or dry vermouth just by altering the amount of sugar uh and whether it gets caramelized or not. Do you think this procedure makes sense? Are there any issues I should take into consideration? And as a side note, the spice herb ingredients change a lot from recipe to recipe, but other than wormwood, which you know, you don't actually technically need wormwood, but wormwood is the source of the word.
+
+[24:23] Vermouth, wormwood, you know, vermouth. Anyway, uh I don't even know what language I'm imitating, some sort of Germanic thing. Okay. Uh, do you think there uh are any can't miss botanicals in a vermouth? Looking forward to having vermouth forward cocktail with my own product, uh, because you are partial to the martinez.
+
+[24:39] Uh well, I mean, I like uh I like uh verm vermouths and um you know that kind of aperitif thing with uh I like some with quinine in it, you know, like quinato with quinine. And you can get the uh the bark uh conchona bark or you can buy, I mean, I would do that. That's probably easier to do work with, but you know, the classic things. Uh people put things like uh oregano and rosemary and stuff, but Nastasha's making a vegan face over there. Uh but you can also put in sweeter things like uh vanilla or uh citrus peels are very popular.
+
+[25:10] I like classic other things like gentian. I like oris, but I don't think that's classic. I don't think people would normally put oris in, but I like oris, but you gotta be careful with it. I like things like fenigree, but you could add almost anything. The you know the issue is you don't if you add like a million different things, you get that kind of spice door smell.
+
+[25:25] Also, bear in mind that when you are using these botanicals, the quality of the botanical varies widely depending on the source and therefore the strength of it. So it's very difficult to follow a recipe written in grams that's made with a dried spice because the actual uh potency of that dried spice can vary over, you know, I wouldn't say in order of magnitude, but at least a factor of two or three times, right? Uh and and they can be very different. So like when I I like coriander a lot. Uh and so there are various different kinds of coriander.
+
+[25:54] Some have more of a citrusy note and some some don't. So you just gotta be uh careful of that. Now back to your regular question is can you steep it in the high proof? So the reason that they ask you to do it in the low proof and then for the fortification is to make it last longer, okay? And to bolster it.
+
+[26:07] The reason they have you infuse it in the uh in the wine first and then add the other stuff is so that you don't boil away too much alcohol, right? That's the reason. Um sugar is also gonna add to the preservative. So you could uh you know, you could seal a seal a bag or seal a uh a uh flame-proof bottle with a cork. Don't seal it so that it can build pressure and explode because that would be dumb.
+
+[26:29] And you can heat it there without evaporating alcohol, and that's the way I do hot infusion of liquors all the time. Just be very careful that you're not hard sealing a container that can explode when you put because the liquor is gonna boil uh at a much lower temperature than the water. And you can infuse things that way, and you could have an herbed base. Uh, you know, so you know there are like very bittered herbed uh drinks like Swedish Baska Droppar, which is like this incredibly bitter like uh wormwood uh thing. And presumably you could add it to wine.
+
+[26:57] I don't think the result's gonna be exactly the same because infusing at a lower proof is gonna provide a different result from infusing at a higher proof. However, it might be delicious. You never know. Uh I would, you know, I would I would assume that the results are going to be different. Every time you change how you're infusing something, what the alcohol level is, the temperature level, the length of infusion, all things change.
+
+[27:17] So you might be able to get a delicious um product, but I don't know that you'd get the same product uh you know as a classic classic made vermouth. And also these vermouths are gonna want to sit together and marry a little bit before they get totally integrated. So I'm gonna think that you're not gonna get a hundred percent uh the same result, but you might get uh a delicious ones. I mean, it sounds sounds what you're doing is more akin to uh making more akin to making a bitters and then adding the bitters to the um to the wine, although uh a dilute bitters because you're gonna be adding more than you would for a bitters of a couple shakes. Does it make sense to us?
+
+[27:49] Uh anyway, I hope that helps. I don't think that was very helpful, but there you have it. That's what I got. It's what I got. Um Ryan Bone.
+
+[27:57] I'm gonna, you know what? Ryan Bone wants uh questions about cookbooks, but I'm gonna do that last because I'm probably gonna spool off into into Never Never Land, right? Right. That's because that's what I do. Yeah, okay.
+
+[28:05] So well, Ryan, we're gonna get you last. Uh Bob writes in, thinks that we should name the torch thing Torch Trap. Right. Torch Trap. Yeah.
+
+[28:13] But it sounds like I'm being trapped though. Right. Sounds like it also positive thing. Right. Although I mean it is descriptive, but like, you know, people are like, why would I want to be trapped?
+
+[28:23] I don't want to be trapped. I want to be set free, right? This is what like Bob, this is what what happens when you're dealing with people, like you'll think you have something really good, and they'll be like, then like one idiot is like no, no. This is why any of you out there are in the i i in the like think you're gonna have kids in the near future. Don't tell anyone outside of your partner what the heck names you're thinking of.
+
+[28:45] Because you know what? You don't want to hear it. And by the time you name the kid, no one's gonna be like, that name sucks. Because they can't. They can't.
+
+[28:52] So, like, like we have the classic problem here of too many outside uh people. You know what I mean? And then, like, so I'll give you a classic example of that. Remember the uh the I forget they're were the Ernst and Young, they used to be whatever they used to be. And no, Anderson or whatever it was, uh, the accounting like firm, the consulting firm, right?
+
+[29:09] They're now called Accenture, and that's what happens when you have a name by committee, Accenture. I don't like that name. Do you like that name, Stuzz? Accenture. No, that's bad.
+
+[29:17] That's bad. I mean, no offense if any of the listeners, I'm not saying the company is bad, and the person who uh won that won a huge amount of money, I think, for getting the name right, so they're laughing all the way to the bank. But it, you know, I just I just don't think it's a I you know, accenture. Accenture. Accenture.
+
+[29:32] So it's so it's so name by committee, am I right? Yeah, named by committee. Sounds like maybe it could be a car. Maybe. Although I know the clamp that we're making to uh sell with the torch thing, ain't no one gonna change the name of that.
+
+[29:43] That thing's a jed clamp. It's a jed clamp so that I can say to someone, go jet clamp it. Yes, you know what I'm saying? And I don't care. I don't care.
+
+[29:51] People are like, but I don't I don't get that joke. I don't care if you get it or not. It doesn't matter to me. It's a jet clamp. You see how easy it is when you have a conviction about something?
+
+[29:58] Yes. Makes life so much easier. Uh Sam writes in about Sam KB, in fact. Writes in about Chicha. This one uh got uh Stasza a little queasy because she never thought about it.
+
+[30:10] But uh here we go. Cooking issues crew. I'm five months into a year-long research project in the Ecuadorian Amazon. That kicks some serious butt. Right?
+
+[30:18] Yeah. The Amazon. I've never sp I've never been to the Amazon. I gotta go. Uh uh, you know, I'm fascinated by that.
+
+[30:22] You know, I've been to Columbia a bunch of times, but never down to the Amazon reason or to the Choco. Although apparently, if I go to the Choco, uh I won't come back alive. Like, I might come ship back as a food product, but I'm not gonna like Choco is like completely, you know, unlike it's like everyone everyone from Colombia, and I know you're talking Ecuador, not Colombia, but everyone in Colombia is like, well, what do you think about Choco? Oh, amazingly beautiful. Can I go?
+
+[30:42] No. You know what I mean? It's like not controlled by anyone. It's crazy. Uh because it's whatever, we're not gonna get into it.
+
+[30:49] Okay, um, I've had the opportunity to eat some pretty amazing foods, including fried grubs, smoked cured monkey. You know, that's the one thing I can't co-sign, although you explain later, but I can't co-sign them the I can't do it. I can't do much. Crocodile, uh, arapaima, which is uh the largest freshwater fish in the world, and damned ugly. So ugly.
+
+[31:09] Yeah, Google that thing, Stas. I'm like, you know, go for all uh A R A P A I M A. A big ugly freshwater fish. Uh and a number of four legged animals I cannot identify. Uh I like that you stay away from the two legged animals, just in case.
+
+[31:25] Um uh okay, uh, can't identify. While some of these animals are threatened with extinction extinction, I'm only consuming them while living in indigenous communities whose hunting practices may actually support conservation efforts. In addition to these animals, I've been consuming copious amounts of chicha. Not corn chicha, but boiled a yucca, cassava root, uh, which women and only the women chew spit into clay pots, add water to it, and let ferment for up to four days. The chicha is slightly sour, mildly alcoholic, and has a thick, whey-like texture, uh, not way like, you know, the like kind of, you know, Mexican word for like, you know, ombre.
+
+[32:02] Like whey like whey in milk and whey. Uh fish. Yeah, the fish is ugly. Uh with a noticeable saliva undertone. It's uh actually quite good.
+
+[32:12] My question is, how would you mimic this and reproduce the saliva undertone in the United States? As my assumption is serving human saliva would neither be well received nor legal. Uh not sure the legality of using animal saliva either, probably not gonna be okay. Uh, but if we can eat tongue or blood sausage or horse tartar, uh well, remember the horse tartar thing was a mistake. People weren't supposed to be eating that.
+
+[32:34] That was uh, you know, uh uh what's called fraud in in the Europe. Uh I don't really see why we although you know it's illegal. You could you could have it. Anyway, I don't really see why we couldn't eat fermented llama saliva. I'm interested in experimenting with chicha and other cooking applications besides just using it as a drink.
+
+[32:49] Let me know what you think. Love the show, Sam KB. Okay, first of all, before I get into your question, uh uh hoo-ha recently over the a lion. Someone was trying to uh uh outlaw eating of lion, and so we got a bunch of calls yesterday because uh wrote a post uh a long time ago where one of the things we ate was lion, and so everyone called me to expect me to be some rabid defender of eating lion meat. And in fact, we no longer buy meat from the butcher that we got that from Zymer's because it found it turns out that uh, you know, went to jail for for unsavory kind of sourcing and practice.
+
+[33:21] So we don't use it anymore. But it's an interesting idea. Everything's coming around, everything's like weird. Everything's coming up weird, like lion meat and weird meats these last couple of days, right, stuff? Yeah, it's a good thing.
+
+[33:30] Very strange. Very strange. Okay, back to Chicha. The book that you want to look at is unfortunately extraordinarily expensive. Uh it's like $375 on Amazon, and you know, not that I advocate you downloading illegal PDF copies.
+
+[33:45] I was not able to find an illegal PDF copy. However, you can get all the relevant information by going between Google Books and Amazon, and they both preview different pages. So you can paste together the and that's by the way, that's the classic trick is you look it up on the Google Books, and their previews uh are different from the ones on Amazon. And then I've also looked in international Amazon sites to get previews in between those two to try and piece together like pieces of information I need. But here's what you need.
+
+[34:11] Uh the handbook of indigenous fermented foods, second edition, revised and expanded by Steinkraus. All right. And Steinkraus devoted a career to like really like this is a really kind of amazing book. Uh so they have a section on uh on Chicha. Uh, and it's mainly about maize uh chicha, but it goes into the whole um production.
+
+[34:33] Now, here's the thing. So with maize chicha, there's two ways to do this. So the reason the saliva is working here is that you your mouth has amylase enzymes. Uh, amylase enzymes are enzymes that break down uh starch, well they break down starch into sugar. And your mouth has them.
+
+[34:49] Um so what they do is they chew on starch containing items that usually have been ground and cooked, right, so that your mouth can act on them, right? Not dry. Uh or sometimes just I guess if I guess the flower I think is cooked beforehand, I have to go read it again. Uh you chew on it and then uh you let it dry while the amylase stuff is working. You then grind that and mash it like you would uh typical mash thing.
+
+[35:12] The the end the enzymes from your uh mouth will uh you know uh degrade the starch uh during that process to sugar. The product is boiled to concentrate the sugars and then fermented. Okay. The other way to do it with that'll work with um corn, but not with cassava, is to actually germinate the corn the same way that you would germinate barley malt. When you germinate, you activate the amylase enzymes in the corn itself, and you can then make uh chicha that way.
+
+[35:39] So um what you're gonna have to do is you're not I don't think you're gonna get to use the saliva. Um and this is by the way, not just in South America. This is traditional in all places that had starches and wanted to convert them to uh um alcoholic beverages, especially places that did not have grains that would germinate and provide other forms of amylase enzymes. So this is traditional in many cultures to chew on starch things. Uh and for some reason it's usually the women.
+
+[36:09] Isn't that weird? Yeah. Is it because the women are normally cooking, or is it just because men are gross? I don't know. It's weird.
+
+[36:15] It's usually women. Uh in South America, apparently it's usually the older women. In some cultures, it's the younger women. Weird. Weird.
+
+[36:21] Anyway. Uh so uh here's the bad news uh for you. And uh uh this guy, Escobar, in 1977 did his PhD thesis at Cornell University on chicha fermentation. All right, and this is on page 405 of that book I was telling you about on indigenous fermented foods. Uh and he produced both germinated, this is now remember this is maize, but so it's not directly related to cassava, but produced both germinated chicha and salivated chicha up there in uh at Cornell.
+
+[36:52] Both products were sun-dried and ground uh in a powder mill. The flowers produced were then extracted with water in the proportion of one uh uh one kilo water to 250 grams of flour at 75 Celsius with constant stirring. The extracts were then filtered through a muslin cloth, uh, and they were duplicated, blah, blah, blah, and they were then fermented for six days. Now here's the bad news for you. Chicha prepared by the salivation procedure was clear yellow in color, and it had an alcoholic flavor resembling apple cider.
+
+[37:17] Chicha prepared from germinated maize was darker in color, more turbid, and had a slightly acid taste. Both the chichas were suitable for cont uh consumption after only two days of fermentation. The salivated chicha was judged superior in flavor. So I don't know what to do about that. We could probably find, look, you can just buy the enzymes now.
+
+[37:37] So maybe germination does other things to the flavor, but you can just go buy the enzymes now. So you could probably get some of the amylase enzymes that are used uh by people like uh vodka makers who are taking potatoes and turning them into into vodka and use one of those amylase enzymes. And we tried to order one once, but we never got one in. They are not the same as the brewer's uh diastatic amylase things because they have kind of a more broad spectrum functionality and they work better. There's two there's two main amylases there's beta amylase and alpha amylase, and you can't be sure which one you're getting when you get at a homebrew shop.
+
+[38:08] So we're trying to source the really good deal. Maybe that would make a good spit like chicha. I don't know. Good question. Love those kind of questions.
+
+[38:15] Speaking of, uh last week we had a question on avocados uh about circulating them to get rid of the uh polyphenol oxidases, and uh JM writes in and said, just want to share that at my restaurant we routinely circulate avocados in their skins for 50 Celsius for an hour, and they are then indefinitely free of all browning problems. Regards JM. That's good to know. I would have thought you had to go much higher because in some other things, polyphenol oxidase is not um uh degraded for uh until much higher temperatures are reached. So it's good to hear that that works.
+
+[38:42] Uh someone else give it a test, give me a call back. Blake writes in, why is my stock so sweet? Uh he says, why does my I think, man, I don't know, maybe one. Blake? Uh why does my reduced chicken stock taste sweet?
+
+[38:55] It is white chicken stock reduced to a sauce uh and thickened uh made uh to a sauce to thicken made with conventional chicken wings, carrot, celery, and onion. The stock is not sweet before reduction. Okay, here's what's going on. Uh oh, it is late, but thank you for previous self with Zabayon. Here's what's going on.
+
+[39:10] Carrots have a lot of sugar in them, and onions have a lot of sugar in them, and especially as you reduce it, the the kind of natural pungent flavors of the onion are gonna die back, and the only thing that's gonna be uh remaining is the sweetness. So, what I would do is drastically and carrots, same way. I would drastically reduce, well though not the same way, it's not the same, but the sugar is gonna taste more concentrated as it goes. Uh, in the same way that if you add salt to something and then reduce it, it tastes too salty. If you add sugar to something and reduce it, it can taste too sweet.
+
+[39:40] So I would dial back your uh your vegetables, specifically your uh your onions and your carrots. That's what's going on. I mean, that's the only thing I can think of. You're not adding extra sugar to it, so it's a question of concentration. But give that a try to see what happens.
+
+[39:54] Rolf Wynne writes in, Dear Miss Hammer. I like that. Dear Miss Hammer. Uh thought of a name for the kick uh for the project, torch tamer. What do you think?
+
+[40:03] Like lion tamer? Torch tamer? Yeah. Any thoughts? Uh that was the least enthusiastic sound I've ever heard in my life.
+
+[40:12] She's like, yep. Yeah, you can't hear it. I don't know. I don't like I don't I'm I I'm just reading. I'm just a conduit here.
+
+[40:18] Keep up the great work. The show is one of the best out there. Thank you so much. Tim Haliber writes in uh about rice cookers. Would love to have one device for rice cooking and pressure cooking.
+
+[40:26] Thumbs up or thumbs down on the Fagor Stainless Steel 6 Quart Multi Cooker. That's an electric uh pressure cooker, rice cooker. Uh look. If it works, then I think like why not have it? Although it has happened that I've wanted to pressure cook and cook rice at the same time in my house.
+
+[40:41] That happens actually more often than you'd think, because a lot of times you want rice and you want a braised thing to go with it and the fast brace thing. So a lot of times having a pressure cooker and a rice cooker can be useful. I happen to think that the Zoji Rushi fuzzy uh neuro fuzzy like logic induction rice cooker that I own that's like you know, eight years or nine, ten, no, I don't know, it's old. I happen to think that that's one of the greatest pieces of kitchen equipment I own, and like I would not trade my Zoji Rushi for almost like any one of my pieces of kitchen equipment because it's so awesome and can hold rice for so long without any scorching or bad effects. I love it so much.
+
+[41:14] The other thing is on it, I i I've read on the internets that the Fagor pressure cooker, electric pressure cooker, doesn't get up to a full 15 PSI, which means you are going to be limited. Uh your recipes will not cook. Some recipes want that 15 PSI, uh, and the flavor is going to be different, and recipes won't necessarily be the same because it won't reach the same pressure. So bear that in mind. But I'm not giving that a thumbs up or thumbs down.
+
+[41:36] If you're handy, you might be able to modify it like I did to my Cuisanard to get higher pressures. And you can see how I don't recommend that you do that on uh the blog, which is back up. Okay. Uh at Huggernaut writes in on ice at cooking issues a while back. You mentioned you were discussing the ice program at BDX if people are interested.
+
+[41:51] I'm interested. Oh, I don't have enough time to talk about the ice program, but I promise you, at Hug or Not, Nastasha is now writing down that she's just punching her keyboard with like all five fingers at once, like it's a child keyboard, which I guess it is. But uh the uh the that we'll we'll get that next week. Um okay. Uh Pear Nielsen writes in on kombucha, pronounced like the fruit pear, but with a Scottish accent.
+
+[42:13] I can't do Scottish, uh off the cuff. Jersey I can do. Uh Scottish, come on. I can, but not like off the cuff. It's Norwegian.
+
+[42:20] Hello, Jack, Nastasha and Joe, and the guy who answers the question, which would be me. After buying the art of fermentation, my kitchen has been filling up with various yeast and bacteria experiments. I've been doing some kombucha concoctions, and I'm pretty happy with the results so far. I've made a lemon vervena version after reading the Nordic food lab post about kombucha. Uh I now have two scobies and I'm keen on expanding my experimentation.
+
+[42:41] Do you have any suggestions for other things I can try to ferment using it? I'm gonna try coffee, although apparently I need to throw away the scoby afterwards. Love the show, keep up the work. Uh oh, by the way, so I looked up the Nordic food labs, they're awesome. I looked up, they were doing kombucha on a bunch of different things.
+
+[42:53] Kombucha, what a scoby is is is a uh is a uh symbiotic uh what is it, community of yeast and bacteria. I don't know, bacteria and yeast. It's basically uh acetobacter. Uh it's a uh of there's a form of acetobacter that forms a cellulose uh kind of pad to make this kind of like like scoby thing, and then in it are other acetobacter living, which create uh you know acetic acid, and also um yeasts and other bacteria that generate other flavors and things. The idea is you take black tea or green tea or whatever, uh you sweeten it so that the yeast has something to eat.
+
+[43:27] Uh they produce then uh they ferment it, they make uh flavors plus ethanol, which is converted to vinegar by the acetobacter, bang, kombucha. And people think it has health benefits, blah blah blah. I haven't done a lot of experiments on it because, and this is the one case where I'm like Nastasha. Nastasha hates anything other people like. This is one of those things where like all of a sudden all these people were like, I love this, I love that.
+
+[43:46] And so I was like, I'm not gonna research it, crap on it. But I feel that like maybe that's against like it's against my better nature, so I'm gonna go research. I read a bunch of stuff uh on uh on the internet about it. Um, I would try, I mean, uh, here's what I haven't seen people try yet. I would try uh cocoa.
+
+[44:02] The problem is is that cocoa butter, like you get defatted stuff because fats can go rancid uh over long storage, but I don't think you're gonna have a problem because cocoa butter is very uh resistant to uh rancidity. Uh yeah, and but uh like defatted cocoa might be interesting because it has a lot of the same uh polyphenols that tea has, which is one of the things that, you know, I guess uh I don't know, there's interactions there, uh, which is you know also I guess why coffee is interesting. So I I would try things like that, but I'm gonna try to think more about it. Maybe over the next couple of days, uh I will I will think about it. And I'll talk to Dan Felder from uh Momofuku's uh food lab there because he he's been capped in fermentation and I'm sure he's kombuchified everything in the world.
+
+[44:41] There's an interesting article there on performing kombucha uh on the internet is what I mean. Not from Dan on performing uh kombucha uh fermentation on get this milk. Whoa, milk. Apparently got some interesting uh interesting results. Okay, uh Elliot Pavano, you're right about uh Caramai's tomato.
+
+[45:00] I'm gonna have to get you next time because we're about to get stabbed out here uh with time. Uh John uh John Riper from uh wait, oh, from Seattle. My thing says Seattle, Brooklyn. I'm like, there's a Brooklyn in Seattle? That's crazy.
+
+[45:13] No. Uh is coming to Brooklyn and uh wants to know, right? So this spring, I'd like to spend three to four days exploring Brooklyn, hitting spots that epitomize that part of the world and seeing people in places that would be uh memorable, even if they were somewhere else on the planet. Finding a great bagel or barista would be time well spent. Artisans at the top of their craft, historic spots with a story to tell, and artworks off the beaten path would all be good.
+
+[45:32] Anything food related is especially interesting. If you want a visitor to stay of Brooklyn for the rest of his life, I've seen the best of what it has to offer. Where would you take him? All right. I congrats to Robertus for the Bonapetite shout-out.
+
+[45:42] Well, come to Roberta's. If you got the cash to drop, go to go to Blanca, right? Uh we're gonna meet with John. We invited him to Roberta's uh Aaron and I, and then maybe you guys will all sit down with him, hang out, have a pizza, and uh, you know, give him a good list when he gets here. Uh all right but if he's looking for a barista that'll change his life, I've got two words.
+
+[45:59] Indie Jesus. Indie Jesus pulls a good shot of espresso? Yeah, he's he started as a barista and then he became a server. And he's good? Well, you know.
+
+[46:08] He's Jesus. Yeah. In indie format. Yeah. Okay, so uh oh my god, we're gonna we're gonna get hit by this.
+
+[46:14] Okay, so the uh also, like obviously Andy Ricker Pac Pac is a place you should go. Um there's a lot of places. Uh we'll look, we'll give you a list when you when you when you when you come because we're gonna, I guess we'll talk more about it. But I always say fetsaw too. That's always a fun time.
+
+[46:29] Yeah, all right. I mean, I don't enjoy fun times. I'm just kidding. Uh okay, so uh on the way out, because uh Jack's gonna pull my cord uh in a second. Ryan Bone writes in I'm a computer science and engineering student.
+
+[46:40] When I found out about modernist cuisine, I was blown away with the applications of technology and the scientific method on in cooking. This got me really interested in cooking, so I started playing around with stuff, convinced my parents to get me the at-home version of modernist cuisine. Good job, parents, and have generally had a fun time. But I feel like I'm missing a lot of foundations in cooking. I got Michael Ruhlman's book Ratio, and I've learned a fair amount about baking from that, but I know there's uh more I'm missing.
+
+[47:01] Do you have any recommendations on books or resources that cover the foundations and fundamentals of cooking in a more scientific way rather than a sort of prescriptive recipe type way? Thanks, Ryan. Okay, listen, I mean, on food and cooking by Harold McGee. Just get that. But here's what I'm saying.
+
+[47:18] There aren't that many books out there that treat things from a completely scientific perspective. Uh and uh in addition, you know, it's like people who do present things, chefs who present things from a scientific perspective often get it wrong. No offense, chefs. And so one of the interesting things to do is to read old encyclopedic cookbooks and see how crazy, for instance, their nutritional advice is, or how crazy their explanations for why X, Y, and Z cooking technique works. Instead, I would read McGee for the science.
+
+[47:46] I would read Modernist Cuisine for New Techniques. I would go on all the blogs on the internet. But for the fundamentals, I still recommend going and getting books by people who are just freaking awesome cooks. And what you want to look for, then there's clearly books out there that are, as you say, just prescriptive recipes. But you don't necessarily need the science when you're learning.
+
+[48:08] What you need is someone who has a lot of experience cooking and explaining to you why they do things. You need to learn ways of thinking. So any of the old people that you that you respect, right? So Peter Peterson writes a bunch of amazing cookbooks. For instance, on he has one on sauces, it's great.
+
+[48:26] A lot of times he has explanations in science that I don't agree with, but you're learning the the exp the experience of how to think like a cook through their eyes. Like the old uh two-volume color version of Jacques Papin's way to cook knop from the 80s. Amazing. Um in terms of like how to think like uh see how he thinks. Uh the if you want like high-end stuff, the original French laundry cookbook was amazing because it was showed how Keller approached thinking at the French laundry.
+
+[48:56] Um, you know, like uh these are the kind of books that uh I I would look at now. I'm gonna try to think of a more exhaustive list of ones that have been really helpful to me. I mean, I started cooking a long time ago, so the ones that are helpful to me might be dated. I got Julia Child's uh whatever it's called, the the Wait, the way to cook or whatever, that the big one she had, which you know kind of was one of my first great cookbooks, Giuliano Buggiali's uh one of you know what his larger Italian books I've always had had with me. Uh and so you know you get one or two tomes like this, and they're not teaching you the science, but they teach you, they teach you a mental framework for cooking.
+
+[49:30] And that's what you should look for in uh a chef's cookbook, in chef's cookbook. So get a couple chefs cookbooks, like real chefs, get a couple of teachers' cookbooks. So, like Julia Child was a teacher, uh, you know, great teacher, and Chak Papin, great teacher, you know, from those days, Peterson, great teacher. Uh so get some of those teaching styles to learn, uh, you know, teaching books to learn that kind of way of thinking. And um don't worry so much about the science back.
+
+[49:55] In fact, you whenever you read anyone's stuff, you should be questioning the science behind it. And the only, you know, the only then when you need information like that, go to go to McGee and look and see what he says, right? Yeah. All right, cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org.
+
+[50:20] You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today.
+
+[50:45] Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by White Oak Pastures, a five-generation Georgia-based beef and poultry farm determined to conduct business in an honorable manner. For more information, visit whiteoakpastures.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Cooking issues!
+
+[1:00] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Aron, your host of Cookie Issues coming to you late and live in the back of Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn, on the Heritage Radio Network, every Tuesday from roughly 12 to 1245. Joining the studio with Nastash the Hammer Lubbock. How are you doing? Good.
+
+[1:13] Good? I got Joe back from on tour. Joe, how you doing? I'm doing great. How's it going, guys?
+
+[1:18] Going well. We have no Jack today because Joe thought he'd just handle it all by himself now that he's coming back. Oh, Jack's having a beer. That's fine. So Joe, how was the tour?
+
+[1:26] It was really, really great. Yeah? Went to lots of awesome cities I've never been to before. Chicago, Memphis, Buffalo. Got to, you know, hang out and uh play some tunes.
+
+[1:38] So yeah, yeah. Did you have any of the uh did you have beef on wick when you were in Buffalo? No, I ate Buffalo Wings though. Yeah, alright. They're okay.
+
+[1:45] You know what the thing that didn't travel from uh Buffalo is beef on Wec, which is you take your roast beef and you you have the juice, the dipping sauce there, but they put it on a roll, and the roll is covered in salt and caraway, which is the wick part of beef on wet, and it's a local kind of buffalo thing, uh in you know that area of northern New York. And I don't know why the heck it hasn't spread because that stuff is delicious. Gotta try it, I guess. Yeah, next time you're in Buffalo, you know, look, Buffalo wings, whatever, I guess you have to have some because that's what that they're known for because they put the word buffalo in it. But if they had called it Buffalo Beef on Wec, maybe it would have sold more.
+
+[2:20] Yeah, the the marketing was off on that one. Yeah, no American like whack. I don't want that. Stas, do you want something called beef on Wec? No.
+
+[2:26] What about like like Buffalo roast beef sandwich? Yeah. That sounds good. Yeah, it sounds awesome. Yeah.
+
+[2:31] All right, so Buffalo, anyone from Buffalo out there, remarket your beef on Wec. So uh how many dates did you play? Um we it was six a ri it was six on the way down, then we went to South by Southwest and we played five shows in three days at South by Southwest and then drove back up in three days from I was in Arkansas like two days ago. It was crazy. Yeah, are you a crowd surfing sort of fellow or no?
+
+[2:54] Um generally yes, but uh I don't think that uh it just didn't happen this tour. Really? You weren't feeling it? It wasn't it wasn't necessarily me that wasn't feeling. I was trying to get everyone hyped.
+
+[3:03] It energized and sometimes it's a little hard. Some people just you know, they're sleepy or a lot of buffalo wings. You know what? Up north, so Piper who works with us at the BDXEQ, he was saying that uh he got mad at a really famous rapper who showed remained nameless, it was Buster Rhymes, who went to go play uh, you know, up near where he lives, and Buster Rhymes was mad because you know, all these kids were just sitting and listening to to, you know, him rap, and he's like Buster was like, What the hell? Get up.
+
+[3:31] You because I think, you know, and the the you know, the the the feeling up there from the Vermonters is that you know, if we don't want to get up and dance, doesn't mean we're not enjoying the music. I don't think they understand that give and take. It's hard for someone to give their best concert if there's not a lot of uh movement in the audience. You know what I'm saying? Exactly.
+
+[3:47] Yeah. Yeah, people don't get it. Hey, look, here's the thing, right? Yeah, sure. As a musician, it's your responsibility to kind of go off as hard as you can no matter what the audience is like.
+
+[3:54] But the fact of the matter is, if the audience is into it, they're gonna get a better performance, period. That's human beings. It's not a record, not a record. Right? You're not a record.
+
+[4:02] You're a person. Exactly. I I have feelings too. Yeah, right, bingo. So this in uh Ziploc bags, people.
+
+[4:11] SC Johnson, a family company. So uh Weep Soupy Pot. We pop bam soupy pot from the Nomaku, uh, sent someone who's one of his supporters on the Kickstarter, because uh Weepop's gotten a lot of flack over using the Ziploc bags. We're doing low temperature cooking, low temperature cooking. Most of you, I guess who listen to this know what I'm talking about.
+
+[4:28] It's cooking usually in a water bath at a very controlled temperature. Uh, and usually those temperatures are somewhere in the range of 54 to like 65 degrees Celsius, occasionally higher for certain things for vegetables and whatnot. But anyway, um so cooking uh low temperature with a controlled water bath uh with ziploc bags. And this is a technique I've advocated for uh a long time, and there's been a lot of kerfuffles over it, and I got word from SC Johnson Wax, but you're gonna have to stay tuned because I got a caller I gotta deal with. Caller, you're on the air.
+
+[4:57] Hi, Dave. How you doing? Hi, it's Alvin. How are you? Oh, hey, doing well.
+
+[5:02] Good. Um I just wanted to follow up. I put in a uh question of a little while ago about um pop rocks. Oh, yeah, sure. And um, so specifically, what I kind of want to do is make a savory pop rock.
+
+[5:14] I was thinking if I used something like ice mold, it'd be half as sweet, but I'd like to salt the heck out of it. And um, what I'm kind of after is like kind of like a mall-on large flake salt crystal, right? That pops. Is that possible? Uh okay, here's how pop rocks are made.
+
+[5:31] So uh when you take your when you what they do what they do is they take sugar and uh they heat it and turn it into uh you know to candy temperatures, letting rid of you know the um what's it called, the moisture, and they put it under extreme pressure with uh carbon dioxide at those temperatures. Uh then they let it set under extreme pressure. Then when the when they release the extreme pressure, bam, it explodes into pop rocks. And so kind of the crystal type you get is the crystal type you get. You can't grow Maulden style crystals in a pop rocks kind of a technology.
+
+[6:08] So if you're okay with the crystal structure of pop rocks, then you're you're okay. Now you can you or I should say, you could make, I think, there's nothing there's nothing that in the chemistry of isomalt that leads me to believe otherwise. You could make pop rocks from isomalt. Um so you could do the pop rocks uh with isomalt. Uh you might put the salt in before, you might put the salt in uh afterwards in the form of a powder, but uh there's nothing to lead me to believe that you can't do that.
+
+[6:41] The problem is is that I don't see any way that you as an individual, even I I can't, and I've tried I've tried, but believe me, I don't think that we can make pop rocks on our own. I think there are companies that sell neutral pop rocks, which are just sugar, that you're supposed to then mix your own flavors in afterwards. Chef Rubber, I think, sells them. Um I don't know what their batch size is. There's no reason why you couldn't call them and say, if I'm willing to buy whatever your minimum batch size is, could you just make it with isomalt once?
+
+[7:08] You know what I mean? It's not gonna ruin their equipment. You you know what I'm saying? So it's just convincing whatever curmudgeon it is to do it. And they might even be willing to put in some you'd see the flavors have to be heat stable, that's the thing.
+
+[7:19] So if you're going to put a flavor into it other than salt, which is clearly heat stable, uh, it has to be a heat stable uh flavor. But there's again there's nothing in unless you were going to put in something crazy that they think they're not gonna be able to clean out of their equipment, I don't see a reason why they wouldn't do it for you, assuming that you bought an entire batch from them. Yeah, 20 pounds or something. Yeah, whatever it is. I don't know, I don't know what their what their size is.
+
+[7:41] And obviously they'll charge you more for it, but I have not figured out a way to do it uh on your own in a safe manner. So I've that's so far I've never tried it. And that's just because of the pressure needed to uh set it under you need you need to have a a special vessel, I imagine, right? Oh, yeah, a lot. You need a lot of uh yes, yeah.
+
+[7:59] It's uh it's a special vessel vessel that can withstand heat at an elevated pressure. Now I've done like a hundred psi. No, I think it's I forget. It's been a long time since I've looked it up. I think it's higher.
+
+[8:11] The highest I've ever set something uh with CO2 is a hundred and twenty-five PSI when I was doing uh I was doing jello shots and I set them at 125 PSI, and that is a sharp bubble, but it's not but you remember when you're when you're doing candy, the temperatures of the candy are much, much higher. You could tr look, you could try it. You could the problem is you can't do it in a normal soda bottle because soda bottle can't withstand that kind of uh uh pressure, right? Right. Sorry, sorry, temperature.
+
+[8:38] Here's what you could do. You could melt if you have a Cornelius keg, the problem is Cornelius kegs only go up to about 125 Psi. So, what you would do is is you'd melt out your candy, and then um, you know, you'd keep it hot, then you'd throw it into your Cornelius keg, put it under as high a pressure as the Cornelius keg can take, and then shake it back and forth to agitate it and let it set. I think that's safe, right? Because it's all stainless, it's down at the bottom.
+
+[9:02] It's gonna be a nightmare to clean, but I don't think 125 PSI is gonna cut it. I mean, you can look it up and see, but I don't think 125 PSI is gonna cut it. Cool. Thanks. No, no, no problem.
+
+[9:14] But if you do try it, remember, check to make sure you think it's safe beforehand, because I'm just thinking of this off the top of my head. But if you do try it and you're successful, that's something that everyone would want to know, so please send it on in. I will, thanks. All right, Alvin, see you soon. Uh okay, back to S.
+
+[9:28] C. Johnson Wax. Uh a family company. Did you know that? Yes.
+
+[9:33] Yeah. Uh so anyway, what that means is they're not publicly owned, they're run by a family. So uh the problem is that uh S. C. Johnson got back to uh Grant Aikitz because of a video he was doing uh, you know, for millennia, uh using Ziploc bags and low temperature cooking, and said, don't do that.
+
+[9:48] At least that's what the word on the street is, and by word on the street meaning Grant told me that. Uh so then after that, there's a number of other chefs who were saying that uh, you know, their impression is that Ziplocks were unsafe to cook in, X, Y, and Z, and then because it became known that SC Johnson wasn't supporting it, a lot of other people were wondering why it wasn't supported. Uh long story short, I called up SC Johnson Wax, and SC Johnson Wax, the person who picks up the phone was like, you know, press that big giant, oh my god, someone's asking a question that I need to ask one of my superiors about. And they kept pushing that big red button. I went up the chain uh until I finally got in touch with um uh uh Michelle Johnson.
+
+[10:27] I think no relation. I don't know. I don't know whether she is a Johnson from the SC Johnson. It is a family company, but I don't know if she happens to be in the family. So here's what I said to her.
+
+[10:36] Uh she asked, you know, who who it who from S. C. Johnson told me not to use Ziplocks. Here's my exact email to her. Uh howdy Michelle, I was not contacted by S.
+
+[10:44] C. Johnson, a chef colleague named Grant Aikitz was. There are several other chefs who also warned against using Ziploc in low temperature cooking. And the word on the street is that uh SC Johnson does not support low temperature cooking in Ziplocks, probably because of the presumed uh contact with Grant. Here's what I know.
+
+[10:59] This is me writing. Ziplocks are made of polyethylene with no plasticizers added. Ziplocks have a minimum of residual solvents compared with other polyethylene food grade films I've used. Ziplocks are rated by SCJ for reheating foods, and Ziplocks are not rated for boiling, primarily because of structural integrity issues, not toxicity issues. Low temperature cooking uses thermostatically controlled water baths that are accurate within uh 0.2 degrees Celsius, and the applications using Ziploc Ziplocks are always done at temperatures below 65 C.
+
+[11:26] Because some low temperature recipes cook for as long as three days, 72 hours, uh up to 65 degrees C. Some people think the bags will somehow become toxic after that length of cooking. I disagree. Given these points, I would like it, I would like it if SC Johnson could put their official stamp of approval on the use of bags or explain why I shouldn't pee uh teach people this technique, best Dave. Uh and here's what I heard back.
+
+[11:53] Ready? This is from uh this is from Miss Johnson. Here is what they are. Uh Ziploc, this is directly from SC Johnson Wax, a family company. Ziploc brand bags are designed to withheld being held in high temperature water, including being used up to 82 degrees Celsius for up to seventy two hours.
+
+[12:16] Boiling uh so that's it. So I mean, I wouldn't boil them, but and and I gave her the the I gave her the number eighty two, so you know that's where she's it might go a little bit higher, but there it is, direct. They are okay with Ziploc brand bags designed with uh stand being held in high temperature water, including being used up to eighty two for up to seventy two hours. Bang, bibby bang, bang, there you go. Safe to use according to the company, uh safe to use as far as I know.
+
+[12:43] Uh the one thing that I'd caution on is that they are not good for uh long term preservation. I wouldn't count on them as being oxygen barriers in the way that you count on a another bag uh and especially 'cause you're not packing it using a vacuum, you're packing it using uh the water technique. But that's good news, right? It's great news. So someone please come back at me and tell me why I'm wrong.
+
+[13:02] Call me an idiot, I'm sure you will. Hey Dave, I think we have another caller. Oh yeah? Caller, you're on the air. Hey Dave and crew at Brian San Francisco, how are you?
+
+[13:12] Doing all right, how you doing? Good. Um so I'm looking on ideas in food and you can probably Google it at the same time as I am. Um and they have a recipe for Meyer lemon vinegar there. Okay.
+
+[13:24] And they say they take cut lemons, water, sugar, and yeast, and then throw 'em together for a few days, and the vat of liquid starts bubbling, then they strain out the solids and let the fermentation uh begin in the open air. And um my question is is this is a pretty unique way of making vinegar. I've never seen this this this before. Usually you know you have the vinegar mother and some old wine. So this is trying to create I guess a lemon wine first with sugar.
+
+[14:01] And so my questions are um what do you what do you think of this? And can I just use regular oiled yeast or do I need special um kind of yeast like champagne yeast or or something like that? Um then they take uh uh the all the solids and separately um ferment them with onions and salt and pepper flakes as a I guess some kind of condiment. Right. So um what do you think of this method for making like fruit vinegars?
+
+[14:36] Like this lemon and and and how much sugar should and yeast would I need to add? Right. Well, I mean, as to what yeast to use, I mean uh I haven't studied the effect of um different yeasts on um vinegar production. Be well for everyone who doesn't know how vinegar is made, here's what happens. You take uh some form of sugar, uh some form of fermentable, you ferment it into alcohol first, right?
+
+[15:00] Uh and then after that you uh acetobacter takes over, and acetobacter eats the alcohol that's produced and turns it into acetic acid, which is vinegar. That's why vinegar has a low alcohol content, and that's why when you leave wine open, it turns to vinegar. Now, the tricks with vinegar is that obviously if your alcohol level is too high, then uh acetobacter can't uh work, and if acetobacter can't work, then uh no vinegar, right? Uh similarly, if you use uh preservatives or uh agents in your fermentation that prevent it from turning that that prevent the growth of acetobacter, no vinegar. So uh so there's a couple of ways that you can go about it.
+
+[15:44] One is the more traditional two-step process where you take an alcoholic beverage and then ferment it with uh a vinegar mother, uh or you know, or let it go naturally and produce um vinegar. That's two-step process, or you could do a one-step process where you convert both at the same at the same time so for instance a a a kombucha is uh roughly a uh a two you know a one-step vinegar process where you have different strains of yeast and bacteria and different strains of acetobacter making stuff. Now they're very particular strains of acetobacter so they produce uh kombucha right and it's not very acidic kombucha compared to vinegar right so with their thing presumably they're adding enough sugar to it uh that they're getting uh the acidity level right now in a regular fermentation the yeast is vital to the the what particular yeast you use and the temperature at which you ferment is vital to the end result right now if you use a if you pitch a yeast with let's say like fleischmann's whatever you happen to have lying around and you like the result then the good thing is fleischmann's pretty consistent right but typically you wouldn't pitch beer with fleischmanns because who would do that you know what I mean you'd get you go to a homebrew shop and you would get you know why yeast like you know something that you like like you'd get like you know uh I don't know some uh like uh you know a yeast that's designed to do like a pale ale or whatever you're working on you know and you'd choose the temperature ratio you're working on and then they would write this one produces a lot of esters at between the temperatures of 60 and 70 you know Fahrenheit. And so you'd choose your yeast bake on based on that because it's fairly critical to the tape. Now the other thing is is that you're not ever typically dealing with a fermentation that starts with such a high level of acidity as a lemon maceration.
+
+[17:29] So I don't know whether that's affecting I don't mean I'm sure presumably everything's affecting sugar to it. Yeah, but I mean, like, yeah, I mean the yeast is gonna that means some yeast is gonna be you're gonna you're you're changing how the yeast is going to react by increasing the acidity level. Uh mean I'm not not saying you're gonna kill the yeast, but you're gonna change it uh based on how much acidity uh you're you're adding. Uh oh, and Elliot Elliot Papineau uh writes in that uh what is he saying? Stash just to speak.
+
+[17:57] Anyone interrupting it? Speak. Elliot Papineau asked ideas and food, what kind of yeast for the Meyer lemon vinegar? Oh, so they're they're asking, so we don't know. And ideas in food said mantra che is that mantrachet like and uh Elliot said things.
+
+[18:12] I don't know, but that must be a yeast strain that I'm not familiar with. Oh, I I think that's a kind of uh uh uh yeast that's just used for champagne, which might be able to deal with the acidity. Okay. So there, yeah, because champagne champagne must is high in high in acidity. There, so there you have it.
+
+[18:27] Uh so yeah, so they're doing that and they're doing a one-step fermentation, but that works, yes. Uh I whether or not it's gonna make you the best possible fruit vinegars, that I don't know. I mean, you know, you might want to do traditional ferment the fruit out first and then and then hit it with uh hit it with your acetobacter. They're clearly also using wild acetobacter strains because they're not adding a vinegar mother to it. Unless they added some live vinegar that they already have to kick off the uh fermentation.
+
+[18:51] Did they do that? Uh it doesn't say that they've done that at all here. Right. Um, so uh you know, maybe they need to let it get alcoholic enough first and then and then add the vinegar mother. Well, there's not gonna be a lot of uh there's not gonna be a lot of acetic uh fermentation at first because once you have a vigorous uh alcohol fermentation going, there's constantly producing carbon dioxide, and the layer of carbon dioxide that's forming on top of the um fermentation will prevent uh acetobacter from growing, because acetobacter needs oxygen.
+
+[19:26] That's why if you go to a distillery, they can have these giant vats of things that are fermenting in the open air uh without them turning to vinegar because there's a constant um production of carbon dioxide on the top. Mm-hmm. RT. Yeah. Okay.
+
+[19:40] Um this sounds like to be a fun experiment. Yeah, yeah. Uh let's tweet us, tweet us over and tell us how it works. Okay, cool. Thanks.
+
+[19:47] Oh, oh, one question. How much how much sugar do you think I would need to add in order to uh uh to get it going? That's a good question. I mean, just don't go too high. It's been a long time since I've looked up the bricks that you'd need to add to something.
+
+[20:00] Uh I mean, I would probably have somewhere in the area of like fruit juices, are usually somewhere at like 14, 15 bricks, something like that. So maybe somewhere in that range. Okay. Great. Sounds good.
+
+[20:13] Thanks. All right, cool. Uh thanks. All right. Elliot Pabanal wrote in before uh regarding caramelized tomatoes.
+
+[20:20] Uh I tried pressure cooking in uh my coon recon at full pressure, which is 15 psi, second ring, home canned tomatoes for 40 minutes over the weekend. I used three quarts uh of um product which yielded two uh two quarts of flesh and one quart of juice. I only added the flesh to the pot with one onion, one head of garlic, and three grams of baking soda. The result I was looking for was a caramelized tomato sauce. What I produced is more of a nicely flavored soup.
+
+[20:44] Will I be able to achieve the desired effect using the technique, but adding time or lowering the pH? Well, I mean I assume you mean uh rate raising the pH. So you're adding the baking soda to you're adding the baking soda to the tomato to raise the pH when you're pressure cooking. And the reason to raise the pH when you're pressure cooking, a la what they do in uh modernist cuisine for their butternut squash, whatever it is they do in that thing, uh, is to by raising the pH by making it more alkaline, you are uh shifting uh the temperature at which myard reactions happen to a lower temperature, such as those that happen inside of a pressure cooker, and and things do get appreciably browner in a pressure cooker due to my hard reactions uh over fairly short periods of time. However, tomatoes are an extremely uh extremely uh acidic product.
+
+[21:27] So a couple uh teaspoons of baking soda, I don't think is gonna cut it and make it more uh caramelized. Um in fact, it's interesting. Uh if you look at, I was looking at the Women's Christians Temperance Union cookbook from 1900 from Kansas City because of a separate thing I'm working on. Uh, and uh what was interesting to me is that I looked at a couple of their tomato soup recipes, and all the tomato soup recipes that use milk in them, they have baking soda added, and the reason they have baking soda added uh there is to uh decrease the acidity so that the milk won't curdle, presumably. It's really actually interesting.
+
+[22:01] You know, I don't have time anymore to read old cookbooks, but you know, I I I I used to read constantly read old cookbooks and try and steal ideas that have become lost over time. But anyway, so um I don't think that the baking soda is gonna help in that. Here's what I would do. Uh I would pre-caramelize your potatoes, tomato potatoes, dunce. I would pre-caramelize your tomatoes before you uh do anything.
+
+[22:22] I would just cut the tomatoes in half, roast them until you get rid of a lot of the liquid and they start turning uh kind of dark and caramelized, and then blend those in uh to make your to make your product because I think you're gonna need to just reduce the water enough to get it to get that caramelized stuff before you make the soup. Then pressure cook it, I think it'd be delicious. What do you think, says? I think it sounds good. All right.
+
+[22:42] Uh see if that works. Let me know. Uh now I got another question in. Uh this one uh is very interesting. I love questions like this because I had not thought about it before.
+
+[22:52] Unfortunately, because it turns out it's a huge issue and I haven't thought about it before, I'm not gonna be able to answer it today. But here it is. I want everyone to be thinking about this because it's very interesting. Mark Tinkelman writes in Hi Cooking Issues Crew. Mark from Philadelphia here.
+
+[22:59] My question is about nanoparticles. I've seen a few articles here and there and I gather they are food additives that are used in some industrial food to enhance flavor and texture and that they may be dangerous to health. I haven't seen anything that satisfactory explains what they are how they made. So my questions are what are they? One, could they be made or used in professional kitchen and what good would they be for thanks Mark Tinkleman.
+
+[23:26] Okay. I have to admit I got so entranced with the thinking about the safety aspects of it that I I haven't thought about how to make them yet or what they would be good for. But nanoparticle for those of you that don't know are just extremely small and usually very even sized particles. And they can be made a bunch of different ways. They can be made through like vapor deposition that so goes from a vapor to uh to you know to a solid at very you know at very controlled way such that the particles are small.
+
+[23:53] They can be made um uh by grinding if you happen to have a grinding thing that they can grind well enough although that's you know you don't I don't no one does that is normal they can be made uh but the easiest way I think that uh was we would ever be able to make them is by making emulsions uh that with very fine particle sizes in it then when something's in an emulsion form shifting it from a liquid to a solid so that the the the the droplets that are emulsified in all of a sudden become a solid again so it's sold gel uh change right then breaking the emulsion and you get the nanoparticles out and I think that's uh how the majority of the nanoparticles uh that you know except for I guess things like the titanium I don't know how they make the titanium dioxide nanoparticles which are the ones that are used in toothpaste to make things really bright and the and and that are used in sunscreen to uh shield you from the sun titanium dioxide nanoparticles anyway uh and I don't know how they do silver but uh the one that we'd be most likely to be able to make uh is ones that are based on sol gel uh transformations like that. Here's the issue that's interesting and I hadn't thought about it. I started researching uh kind of safety in nanoparticles because to be honest I'd never thought about it before and it what's interesting is is that you can take something that is safe to use that is a safe product uh and by decreasing its size sufficiently you change the way it's absorbed in the body so that it might no longer be safe right and the the problem with it is and the reason I don't have an answer is that I'm gonna have to spend a long time researching this because most of the articles that are anti them uh anti-nanoparticles in in food are written by um people that I think are biased and most articles that are saying that you shouldn't worry about nanoparticles in food uh also come from people that are biased so far that I've found and so I haven't been able to do enough research for my own uh my own feeling to be able to make any statement uh one way or the other but it definitely is something that I think needs to be looked at more than it is now like what are these things doing right anyway so uh thanks Mark and I will look more into it and expect to hear more blithering when I finally figure out what I think. Right? Uh Peter Hirschman writes in about a name couldn't uh stash you couldn't find the email address for saying the comments so I don't know who he sent it to but here it is.
+
+[26:12] The new torch tip appears to work by radiating infrared this talk about the torch that we're building. Uh by radiating infrared and near-infrared radiation, what makes it similar to an old-fashioned French salamander that was heated in a fire until red hot and then held over the food. The French name would be something like salamandre moderne, which wouldn't work with American audiences. Yeah, no crap, it wouldn't work with it. So how about Salamander 21, a 21st century salamander?
+
+[26:33] Well, everyone knows I like Sally, maybe Sally 21. I like Sally because it sounds friendly. Hey, Sally, sounds friendly. Salamander, by the way, I don't know, did I talk about this already? Salamander, uh uh I used I was taught when I was learning cooking that it was called a salamander because it used to have like a sh some of them had a shape that was similar to salamander, but uh I don't think it's that from my research.
+
+[26:52] Salamanders, because of the markings on them, uh I've had a link. Salamander, the you know, the newt-like amphibian, has had a uh link with fire since uh since recorded since recorded history, because I think because of the markings on it. So it's it used to be thought that um salamanders were impervious to flame, and in fact, uh there were fake uh people used to sell coats made out of salamander wool, and everyone who sees a salamander knows they don't have wool or hair, but you know, Europeans were some dumb back in the middle ages. So like they would import uh salamander wool coats from uh from East from the you know from what the time is called the Orient. Uh you know what it was made out of Stas?
+
+[27:30] No one. Asbestos! So people are having these like thebestist things, and then when they would get dirty, because Europeans are dirty back then, hey, no offense. They would like uh throw them into the fire and they would get clean that way. It's pretty pretty pretty cool, yeah?
+
+[27:42] Yeah. Anyway, Salaman Sally 21. Anyway, we'll think about it. Uh here's hoping that sales are good so it doesn't become an endangered species. Thanks, Peter.
+
+[27:50] Um Bob Berry out uh uh bariatua, which I got right last time, but probably not this time, writes back in uh in response to a couple things we had on our show before. In response to the recent cooking issues inquiry about food science textbooks, I have found that phenoma's food chemistry uh is helpful and accessible. If you have a chemistry background, that is. I have that book. It's pretty good.
+
+[28:09] I have an older version of it. And you can find it online uh pretty well if you want to look through it before you buy it. And Fenema's is available extremely cheaply on ABE Books or on Bookfinder.com if you're willing to get an older version of it. That's how I got mine. Uh I also own a PDF because that's how I roll.
+
+[28:24] Anyway, uh also I started with Modernist Cuisine at home, which I found impressive, but was blown away by the detail found in the five-volume version. It is well worth the investment for anyone with a serious interest in cooking science. Having spent nearly the same amount for a single volume medical textbooks, it's a bargain. This is also Mirvold's point. Uh that if you go out to a super expensive meal, you can afford to buy modernist cuisine and it's worth it.
+
+[28:44] That he actually said that to me, the kind of almost verbatim. Um second question, this is in response, a second comment, rather. This is in response to a podcast from a few months ago. The polycarbonate tub provided by William Sonoma with the Polyscience Circulator is not the same tub uh that the polyscience uh sends out on their website. The pre-cut polycarbonate lid sold on the polyscience website will not fit the William Sonoma tub.
+
+[29:04] Fortunately, any restaurant supply store that sells Cambro containers sells a lid for the William Sonoma tub, which is soft and not soft enough to cut a circulator a hole with a pair of heavy-duty scissors. I believe I paid seven dollars for it. So it's worth it, seven bucks. Although I tell you the ones that I get, it cannot be cut with oh, I don't know what the William Sonoma one is. If the William Sonoma has that little plasticky one that fits on top, the red kind, those can be cut with scissors.
+
+[29:25] If you have the um the tubs that uh we use that are also made by Cambro, those lids can't be cut with scissors. So I think it depends on which kind you have. But anyway, thanks for thanks for that tip, Bob. Uh, it's good to know. Uh also Steven Rhodes writes in on the name.
+
+[29:38] Big fan of the show. Uh name when I say name, I mean the name of the uh Kickstarter thing that we're working on, the uh you know the torch thing. Uh thought of a name for the Kickstarter project, Searite. What do you think? Sally Stone.
+
+[29:49] You like Sally? And then someone else wrote in on my on my Twitter, uh, I forget who it was because I don't have my Twitter up, but said we should you know what they suggested? Sears all, and then it was like, duh, it should be Sears all because you like Sawzall so much. And then he did a little pound hash thing saying, Did I miss anything? I love Sears All.
+
+[30:05] It's just that, you know, some of my partners believe that it sounds like Sears Robuck and therefore they don't like it. But I like Sears all because does it sear some things, Nastasha? No. What is it Sear? All things.
+
+[30:15] All things. Right. All things. All things. Uh okay, maybe we should take a quick break and then come back with some blistering finishing off.
+
+[30:22] Cooking issues. White Oak Pastures is the only farm in the United States that has its own USDA inspected red meat abattoir or slaughterhouse. And its own USDA inspected poultry abattoir or slaughterhouse. We partner with Whole Foods to deliver our high quality meat and poultry from Miami, Florida, all the way to Princeton, New Jersey. One family, one farm, five generations, 145 years.
+
+[31:05] A full circle return to sustainable land stewardship, you may and animal stockmanship. For more information, please visit our website, Whiteoapastures.com. I like the way that guy says poultry. Don't you? I like the way that man says poultry.
+
+[31:30] Uh poultry. I like that. Like it's like so anyway. I want to go buy some now. Hey, so for next week, it's Jack.
+
+[31:36] Dave. Uh, we got a submission for the Hearst Ranch commercial contest. Yeah? Contest, yeah. Sweet.
+
+[31:41] Yeah, I'm gonna play it next week. Can't wait as we know the alarming. As we know, my my favorite, my favorite grass-fed beef uh song. Yeah. By far.
+
+[31:50] It's tough to pick one, but uh true. Okay. Uh Marty writes in regarding his rice fermentation that we talked about on an earlier show. I wrote earlier about my homemade Chinese rice wine tasting like shwedyballs. And I've since rectified the problem by incubating my fermenter with a terrarium heater pad.
+
+[32:06] Huge difference. So the problem was he was doing it at too low a temperature too long, as we suspected. But the resulting brew is still cloudy. And I have the issue of Spritz, a slight effervescent carbonation. So my questions are as follows.
+
+[32:18] I am fermenting the wine in a water-sealed pickle fermenter. Is that better or worse than fermenting in an open pot? Open pot will have less pressure in it, but you're not sealing it probably enough to keep the um you're not probably sealing it enough to keep in the uh my brain fried, my brain fried. Keep in the CO2 and plus some air needs to get to it for that fermentation to work, I think. Although you know, maybe not.
+
+[32:36] So I uh it's been a long time since I've looked at it. Uh, but I don't think that's causing your spritziness. Is there a way to prevent the carbonation? It's annoying to me. No.
+
+[32:43] You can you can uh if you let it vent off enough, as long as you're making sure that no acetobacter is gonna grow in it to make it more acidic, then you can let the carbonation go off, or you could just uh apply a vacuum to it and zip the al zip the carp carbon dioxide right out of it, like I do, like we do with the with uh champagne when we're testing it. Um is the cloudiness a flaw? Can I clarify the wine? I tried filtering it through coffee filters, but nothing came out. I have no access to a centrifuge.
+
+[33:08] Whether or not you can clarify it depends on what the cloudiness is. Unfortunately, I suspect that what is causing the cloudiness in your case is starch, and starch uh isn't very well clarified by techniques like agar clarification, uh as well as th as well as other cloudy things are like proteins. But if it is starch, it will settle. If you let it sit for a you know, like a week or two, uh it should settle out, and then you could probably decant the clear stuff off the top, but it's not a flaw. If it's not starch, then you could just do an agar clarification, go on the cooking issues website, which is working again thanks to uh Paul Adams, our buddy.
+
+[33:40] Uh you can look up clarification techniques and get uh technique with agar that doesn't require a centrifuge. Now here's what I'm really cool. I like this a lot. Uh Morton Madsen uh wrote in last week about quail eggs. Do we speak them or do we write?
+
+[33:52] I think he wrote. He wrote. Uh and you know what I said was please someone run the experiment. The experiment was can you put uh the quail eggs in an ISI container, hit them with nitrous and vent them real quick to make them peel easier. Uh and he ran the experiment.
+
+[34:05] How awesome is that? So here it is. Uh he writes, thanks for your answer on my quail egg question. Hate to be rough on you, but your pronunciation was not entirely spot on. Mort Morton Morton Madsen, what do you think?
+
+[34:16] I don't know, I don't know. He's like, Well, Danish can be a tongue twister for non-danes, so no worries. At least you did not torture my name. I read through the article you suggested and found it quite informing. I told him an article about peeling eggs, right?
+
+[34:26] Uh back to the issue at hand. I took your suggestion on using the ISI to approximate the pressure change associated with the pressure cooking of eggs. When you mentioned that the critical aspect of the pressure cooking of eggs is the abrupt change in pressure and not the temperature, my thoughts immediately went to uh the ISI as yours did as well. Needless to say, when I got the chance, I went out and bought a new batch of quail eggs. I followed the recipes uh from the last time, blanched a bunch of eggs in boiling water, followed by a cooling step and a second blanching.
+
+[34:51] I then circulated the eggs at 63.5 degrees Celsius for a short period. From this point on, I split the eggs in three uh in three uh things. I first I tried to peel directly. These eggs were even harder to peel than I remembered, uh presumably due to the fact that they were fresh. The second batch I put directly into the ISI canister from the circulator and loaded it with N2O, followed by a violent venting right away.
+
+[35:11] This time, complete success! These eggs were much easier to peel. The membrane had loosened from the egg white, and I had no problem peeling these eggs. This solution is really what I was dreaming of. I think it will I will be able to peel every single egg with no breakage using this technique.
+
+[35:24] Lastly, I had one more batch of eggs. This one I cooled down. I wanted to test if the eggs would do just as fine when loaded cold. While the batch of hot eggs, I reasoned that no N2O would dissolve in the eggs. However, with the cold eggs, this would make a difference.
+
+[35:35] With my small batches of eggs, I think I leaned towards this last batch, the one that was cold as being the easiest to peel. However, I also realized that I got my peeling technique honed for each egg, so I would hesitate to make any conclusions on this final point. In the end, it seems that this technique works equally well with cold and warm eggs, so it seems that one does not need to worry about egg temperature before the ISI step. In summary, I can easily recommend this technique as a shortcut to peeling eggs. I will try the technique with chicken eggs at some time.
+
+[35:59] However, this would probably not be nearly as advantageous since the eggs are easier to peel to begin with, and since they would canister would only hold a small number of eggs. Thanks for your help, Morton Madsen. Awesome. I love this. Now here's a new technique that was uh that we developed with someone who was listening to the show over over the radio.
+
+[36:16] Awesome. Awesome. Awesome. Awesome. Okay.
+
+[36:19] Uh Sherry writes in from Vancouver about high temperature bags. Greeting Anastasia, Dave, and all. Yes, you do have at least one other dedicated female listener and one with a question at that. Busted, Stas. Busted.
+
+[36:33] I'm not busted. I'm happy. Dax just says busted whenever you're wrong. He just goes, You're busted. Even if he's busted, but you know, even whatever, anyway.
+
+[36:40] Uh Dave, a few weeks ago you mentioned the point of comfying uh in a vacpack is to reduce the amount of fat that's required that you cook at about the same temperature as the classic method to obtain the same results. Being a pork belly and pig ears kind of gal, me you know, if I was a gal, I'd be that kind of gal too. Uh intrigued me. My question is from an energy use and equipment wear and tear perspective, would I be better off running my circulator at 9 DC for several hours? Or should I put the vac bag meat in a hot water in an oven of the same temperature?
+
+[37:05] That's interesting. You could probably see the problem with uh ovens is that if the localized temperature of the bag gets above boiling, it can melt out. But so what we what you could do is put uh like a like a bane or water bath or a roaster on your stove top and then cook that one at a little, but I wouldn't do it in an oven because I think that the bat localized bag temperature might get too high and you might get some melting. Uh, but you could definitely do it on a stovetop, as that's what I typically do is I do it on a stove top. But I wouldn't try it in an oven just because I can't get it.
+
+[37:36] If you if you could guarantee that the bag would stay underneath the water the whole time and it wouldn't inflate with air, and then the bag would get above the surface of the water, then I think you could do it. You know what I mean? But uh I I wouldn't I wouldn't try it. I mean, that would and that would actually self-regulate because the water won't get above boiling because of evaporative cooling inside of the oven. So that would be great, but you'd have to make sure that the bag doesn't come up above the surface.
+
+[37:58] But it is a pain running circulators at that high temperature, especially with larger quantities of stuff. And who wants to comf you one thing? You know what I mean, Stas? Yes. Anyway, so uh good idea.
+
+[38:07] Okay. Uh David Wilkie wrote in also about the name. I tried tweeting you but got it wrong. I think you should call it Shimmera A S E for all searing eye and pronounce it ace, shimmera ace. What do you think, Sas?
+
+[38:18] No, I don't like it. Why? I just see. I don't know. I don't think I don't have likes and dislikes like you do.
+
+[38:25] I don't have likes and dislikes that you do. Anyway, whatever you call it, I can't wait to buy one. Thanks for asking my answering my egg question a couple weeks ago. Sincerely, Dave Wilkie. Okay, uh Dorothy, uh, I'm gonna rip through these like it's some gun.
+
+[38:35] Dorothy Stainbrook wrote in from Heath Glenn Farm and Kitchen. Hi, Jack, Dave, and Nastasia. First, you do have female listeners. Another one, double busted, Sas. I am a middle-aged female from Minnesota.
+
+[38:46] You know, I haven't been to Minnesota since I was a little kid. I need to go back. I like Minnesota. Minnesota's good. Well, I remember when I was a kid, I remember it being good.
+
+[38:52] We fished, I got a whole bunch of catfish, and no one wanted to eat them, so we had to bury them for fertilizer. But that's that was in the 70s. What do you want out of me? Uh I have even sent other likely female listeners to your podcast via my blog spot on top seven food podcasts. We females may not be many, but we are listening, Nastasha.
+
+[39:08] Nice. Nice, nice. Anyway, my question. I am making Harissa sauce and would like to make it shelf stable by uh water bathing it like a jam. I'm thinking this may not be safe as it does not have enough acid or sugar in it.
+
+[39:20] It is made uh from rehydrated chili peppers, garlic spices, lemon juice, and grapeseed oil. Do I have to use a pressure cooker or can I add a ton of acid to make it shelf stable? Can I get away with water uh bathing or is or bathing, or is there a better way? Thanks so much. I do love your show and never miss it.
+
+[39:34] Okay. Uh first of all, because you are at uh look, if you if you're working at a uh or if you're at a place you own or whatever, Heath Glen Farm and Kitchen. My assumption, and I could be wrong here, so right back if my assumption is wrong. My assumption is you don't want to heap a bunch of preservatives into it because clearly you can kill whatever is gonna grow in that with preservatives. But assuming that you don't want to add preservatives, um the problem okay, so let's take this take a look.
+
+[39:57] Harissa is usually like uh uh like a uh a like a like I don't know whether they're making the sauce or just the paste, but the paste is like you know, uh uh a mixture of oil and garlic and chilies with enough water to rehydrate the the chilies, right? And then other flavorings. You add you said you have um you said you have lemon juice in yours. Now, the issue is that, for instance, let's say you're making garlic oil. The issue is is there's nothing in the garlic to prevent things from like botulism like growing, and so when you add oil, by adding the oil, you're making it an anaerobic environment, an environment without oxygen because it's coating all the stuff, and then by doing that, you're increasing the likelihood something like botulism will grow.
+
+[40:29] So presumably that's what you're worried about, and rightly so. Uh now the problem is normal heating, if if your product is susceptible to spoilage by something like botulism, right? A spore-forming bacteria, then uh then wal doing a water bath is not sufficient to kill it, right? So that would not be sufficient. If you if the problem is something like botulism, then you have to uh seal it and pressure cook it.
+
+[41:02] Can it, right? Pressure can it. Not to pressure cook it, pressure can it. Then you have to follow the right uh advice to do that. Now, let's flip this back a little bit.
+
+[41:11] Let's say that your product uh has an like, let's say you added salt to it, right? And you can measure the water activity and you can measure the pH of it, and it's called the hurdles. So when you when you're whenever you're trying to stop microbes from growing, you have what's called hurdles where you put different things in the way of bacteria from growing. So for botulism and things like it, typically hurdles will be water activity, a small amount of water. Second hurdle will be salt, uh, you know, a high enough amount of salt, and a third uh will be uh pH, would be acidity.
+
+[41:37] And if the combination, if it's acid enough, salty enough, and has l uh not you know a low enough amount of water, then botulism cannot grow. So you can adjust those things, and by the way, interesting thing about your mouth, your mouth doesn't taste uh pH. Your mouth literally tastes the number of uh acid molecules that are present. That's how that's how you perceive something as more or less sour to a first order. I mean, uh don't don't yell at me.
+
+[42:02] To a first order, that's correct. Which means you can choose an acid that has a larger effect on the pH, right? That's gonna kill botulism more readily or prevent botulism from growing more readily, but doesn't taste as sour on your tongue. So you have to look up a list of acidifiers that have uh uh you know that can shift pH fairly quickly without it being too uh too much of an acid perception on the tongue. Now, let's go this way.
+
+[42:27] Let's say you add enough uh product, you add enough acid and salt, and uh also the water activity in the water portion of it. And you should uh you should have all those things mixed into the water portion before you make your oil emulsion. Uh let's say you have enough to stop botulism from growing. You haven't guaranteed, you've guaranteed that no one will die from botulism, but you haven't guaranteed that it's gonna be stable. So there are things that will grow in environments like that, like yeast, for instance, things like that, that can grow in those environments and microbes that can grow that are not pathogens, they won't kill you, but they can change the flavor and spoil it.
+
+[43:01] Luckily for you, most of those things can be killed with a simple water bath. So if you make your harissa stable enough to not have deadly spore-forming bacteria grow in it, like botulism, then uh a simple water bath is enough to kill the rest of the stuff in there that will simply cause bad taste and spoilage. What do you think? Good. All right.
+
+[43:24] Now, I do not have time, unfortunately, to ask answer the last question in from Winter Sender, who is wondering if I could help with a recipe for a homemade soda like sand bitter. This is from Enda in Beijing, and Nastasha will be interested. You know, sand bitter, you like sand bitter, right? I love sandbitter. So I'll tell you what, I don't have time to go in through the rigmarole because they're gonna kick me off the air in the minute, but uh I'm definitely gonna go over that next week.
+
+[43:47] In the la uh and the reason I'm not gonna go over that is because I've missed one for like three or four weeks in a row on the BDX ICE program. So here's what we do at uh at BDX, BDXEQ. So it is possible we we we in general use uh three main three or four main kinds of ice. We use crappy machine ice that we that's what we use for uh our stirring and for chilling things down and for normal culinary use and whenever we don't care, right? That's just normal ice machine ice.
+
+[44:16] Uh and my feeling is is that it has just the same chilling power pound for pound as any kind of ice. The problems are it doesn't look very good and it can have more surface water because it has a large surface area. So we we a lot of times we'll shake it off before we use it, but it's it's fine. Um second kind of ice we use is presentation ice. Presentation ice, we get our ice made by 100 weight ice corporation.
+
+[44:36] They freeze it in large machines called a Kleinbell. Uh we get them in slabs. That stuff is perfectly clear. There are ways to freeze perfectly clear ice uh at home or at a bar that don't involve it. We don't do it.
+
+[44:46] We just order it from 100 weight ice. We get them in slabs, we temper those uh slabs out, and then we cut them with bread knives. They cut it cuts, it's so easy to cut, you just put the bread knife, slide it across it, tap it, and you can make perfect square chunks that are beautiful looking. That's our presentation ice that we use for uh old fashions and um drinks that are built on the rocks. Uh lastly, we make shaking ice.
+
+[45:07] We have two by two uh two inch by two inch ice cube uh trays that we get from Cocktail Kingdom. Theirs are made from urethane and not from silicone. The polyurethane ones that they have don't have any aroma, whereas Evan Freeman noted years ago that the silicone molds that you can buy in some houseware stores uh make a taste to the ice that is otherwise unpleasant, presumably from the silicone, but the ones from Cocktail Kingdom, we did side-by-side taste tests, and we've not been able to note any uh flavor in them at all. Now, those ice cube, two by two ice cubes, uh have cloudiness in them, so they're not good presentation cubes. However, uh my feeling is is that they uh make ideal shaking ice cubes because the texture in a shake and drink with a large two by two ice cube is better as we've noted in side-by-side taste tests.
+
+[45:51] However, if you add just one two by two ice cube to a shaker, you're not going to get enough dilution because uh it's so large that you can't get efficient, uh efficient dilution that way. So typically our shake and drinks, we put a one large two by two ice cube that's frozen in the cocktail kingdom uh ice cube mold, and then we throw in a couple from the crappy ice machine to increase the dilution, and that's our sweet spot for shaking drinks. We do not make uh cobbler ice because we don't use highball glasses uh in our drink presentations yet, otherwise we would. So that's it. Slab ice that we cut into whatever shape we want, usually cubes on the order of two by two, frozen two by two cubes that we freeze in a freezer that we allow to be cloudy that we use for shaking, regular crap ice, and then also, of course, your boy dry uh liquid nitrogen, which is our other chilling technique, and that's it for this week.
+
+[46:40] Cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on heritage radio network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org.
+
+[47:10] Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Hearst Ranch, the nation's largest single source supplier of free range, all natural, grass-fed and grass finished beef. For more information, visit Hearst Ranch.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Cooking issues!
+
+[1:00] Hello, and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn on the Heritage Radio Network! Join with the entire crew today. Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, Jack and Joe in the engineering booth, how are you guys doing? Hey!
+
+[1:13] Whoa! Nice! Nice, nice. And speaking of, uh uh, oh, calling your questions to 7184972128. That's 7184972128.
+
+[1:22] Okay. Uh by the way, cooking or other, you know, anything, spring-related questions, whatever you got. By the way, uh, I noticed that we had a little bit of a sponsorship vlog that we were almost brought to you by beer, and then it turns out we were brought to you by Hurst Ranch. Uh greatest greatest uh grass-fed beef song as as we all know, greatest grass-fed beef song probably ever. Well, guess what?
+
+[1:43] Somebody covered it. Uh so we're gonna hear that later today. So we're gonna hear a cover version of it. I think we're gonna play the original first, and then we'll rock with the cover a little later. And I think we should also at some point find out what the Reverend Horton Heat is doing these days and see if we can't like get permission from the Reverend Horton Heat for the Hearst Ranch people to have him play his fabulous song Eat Steak.
+
+[2:02] You remember that song? Let's do it. Yeah, it's a good song, good song. Well, kind of kind of good song. Anyway, uh but uh initially brought by beer and beer and beef, good combo.
+
+[2:11] We should do uh like a sponsorship beer and beef one day. I could do a beer and beef dish. Right? Everyone likes everyone likes a you know, a Guinness braised uh cut of beef every now and well, not everyone. Michael Natkin for one.
+
+[2:24] Yeah. Oh, congratulations to him. What happened? He is nominated for a beer board. Sweet, I knew that, but I had to draw you into it.
+
+[2:30] See that? See how I had to pretend see how that works? See how you like you know, people out there don't know what's anyway, whatever. So, yes, congratulations to Michael Nakin on being nominated for James Beer. Which uh which category was it?
+
+[2:40] Vegetarian cookbook. Uh he better win. Yeah. Who's against? Do we know?
+
+[2:44] There's some good ones. I don't know, you can look it up. We want him to win. We want Michael Knacken to answer. I bought three books of his for friends.
+
+[2:50] Yeah. With your own money. With my own money. Off Amazon. Michael, Michael, you can't possibly know what an endorsement that is from Queen Cheapula, Nastasha Lopez.
+
+[3:02] I am King Cheapula. I am a cheap, cheap, cheap. But it's weird. I'm cheap about some things, not about other things. Right?
+
+[3:07] Anyway. So uh that that all of that is useless information for you out there. Sorry. Uh really interesting news. Uh we have a question later uh having to do with uh acrylamide in Denmark, which we'll get to later.
+
+[3:17] But I was searching, you know, Denmark and food and problems, and I found something that Nastasha is going to particularly enjoy. I don't know why I think that, but I think she will. And uh it goes back to the recent spate of scandals whereby everything and its brother has been contaminated somehow, right? And so everyone's now like in a complete testing frenzy that uh the meats that you're getting are not authentic, etc. etc.
+
+[3:40] Like perhaps your perhaps your lasagna is actually a horse lasagna. Could be, or at least in Europe. So the latest one, which is like super bonx, is uh new meat scandal, pork in swarma. What? Yeah, yeah.
+
+[3:55] So it's like more so there's a uh so shawarma, you know, for those who don't know what swarma is, uh if you know what a Jiro is, it's kinda like their hero. If you're if you know what a uh donor kebab is, it's kinda like that. But uh the last thing you want to be doing is uh being uh Muslim and have uh pork in your swarma. That's the last thing you want. And so um uh the uh Imran Shah, spokesperson for the Islamic Society in Denmark, told the online daily Politicin DK that this is by no means a minor infraction.
+
+[4:26] This is a huge scandal that will cause an outcry among Danish Muslims. Our religion prohibits us from eating pork. Now Muslims will think twice before eating swarma for fear that uh that they're not adhering to the rules of their faith, said Shah. Sold as b this is all from this website. Sold as beef.
+
+[4:39] More than 200,000 Muslims currently live in Denmark, and shawarma is particularly popul popular because it does not traditionally contain pork, which is considered unclean by Muslims. Uh however, the Danish veterinary food uh uh veterinarian food administration, who the heck does veterinary science and food in the same day? It's kind of crazy, right? I mean, I want that stuff separate. Anyway, found maybe that's the problem.
+
+[4:57] Yeah, anyway. Found traces of the forbidden pork in a fried beef kebab uh product manufactured by Andalukud, the largest supplier of Schwarma meat in Copenhagen. Uh quotes, uh Mustafa Shaheen, the CEO and owner of Andalukud, sorry. Oh. Anyway, I thought you'd like that, right?
+
+[5:17] Sorry. Uh it's not, well, it's not allowed. Obviously, it's not a laughing matter. Food contamination is not a laughing matter, but uh what's interesting is that as soon as people start testing, uh the you know, the the poor kids the fan. Anyway, uh Rick writes in uh regarding uh chicha that we discussed, I think last week or maybe the week before.
+
+[5:37] Uh Dave Nastasia, Jack and Joe. I was listening to episode 118. I can't believe we've had 118 episodes, nuts. Uh in particular segment about chicha. And for those of you that don't know, uh chicha is uh they're traditional fermented uh grain, uh traditionally corn corn, I guess.
+
+[5:52] Uh although other things, you can use roots, uh not necessarily grain, starch. Starch fermentations uh from South America. Uh and you know, one of the traditional ones is with corn, and in order to get the starch in corn or any starch really, uh roots, whatever, cassava, whatever, to uh turn into sugar so that you can ferment them into ethanol, you need to introduce uh amylase enzymes. One way to do that is to germinate uh product uh by you know letting it grow a little bit and then killing the killing the germ so that you um so that you then don't you know don't actually convert like use up all the sugar that you need, and then you use the enzymes from the germination to convert the starch to sugar. Mashing in beer to parlance.
+
+[6:31] Anyway, so um point is is that if you don't mash something out or you don't have something that you can germinate, you have amylase where stuff's saliva. In your spit, yeah. So you can chew stuff up, and it's traditional in a lot of uh communities that didn't have the ability or products that could germinate properly, traditionally things would be chewed up, uh, and then uh the saliva would be allowed to work on the product such that you could get the same effect as you did from germinating. Okay, that's what we're that's what we're talking about. Just so you don't have to go back and listen to 118, God help you if you have to do that.
+
+[6:59] Okay. Uh I recalled an episode of a show called Brewmasters, uh, where uh Sam uh Collagione, is that how you pronounce it? Collagene. What do you think? You're the Italian.
+
+[7:09] Yeah. Uh although he's from like Delaware, so he probably pronounces it differently. At Dogfish Head, great brewery, you know, they make some crazy products, but they also make some incredibly delicious products. Uh at Dogfish Head made a chicho beer where he and his staff uh chewed the corn, spat it out, then added it to the wort, and the beer was then served at the Dogfish Head Pub. In the show, they even tested employees to find those people whose saliva had more of the right enzymes needed to break down the corn, referred to by Sam as super chewers.
+
+[7:37] Uh that in from Rick. So I read one article about uh them doing this. Here's the thing. So they here's the argument of why it's okay to uh chew up uh your stuff and spit it out. The argument is that you're gonna boil uh no matter what, you're gonna boil the wort anyway, right?
+
+[7:52] So you're gonna kill any any bacteria or any stuff that's in there, um it's gonna be rendered harmless by the boiling procedure. Now, I don't really know, because I haven't had the time to look up whether or not that's legal or not. Like in other words, like whether or not people would actually be okay if you actually listed the steps, like I am literally gonna put it in my mouth, chew it up and spit it out, and then I don't know. I mean, like I I'm not saying they didn't serve it, because clearly they did. Um and I, you know, I read that it was more difficult than they let on.
+
+[8:19] They thought they were gonna chew through a bunch of pounds of this stuff and nothing flat, and it took them forever to chew it. Turns out hard work. Uh but the the the point is is that regardless of whether or not it's legal, then the question is is it a good idea to do in your bar or uh brew pub or establishment? And for Dogfish Head, clearly, because they spend a lot of their time experimenting with old techniques uh and you know, ancient brews and ancient beverages, for them it's clearly a necessary step they need to make. Now, step aside, and let's say that you're not Dogfish Head.
+
+[8:48] Like, is it a wise idea? The look on Nastasha's face, the horrified look on Nastasha's face, seems to tell me that no, it's probably not a good idea. Let me give you I'm gonna get gross here for a sec. You alright with this, Doug? Yeah.
+
+[8:59] I'm gonna get gross here, right? Mm-hmm. Okay. So you're literally spitting into something you're gonna serve to somebody, right? Mm-hmm.
+
+[8:59] Okay. And if you weren't gonna boil it, that wouldn't be okay, right? Right. Right. Now.
+
+[9:10] Ready for the gross? Mm-hmm. Like, what if the analog, what if there was an enzyme in poop that did something, right? For instance, Copi Luwak, right? When you eat Copi Lua coffee beans, they have passed through the gut of a civet cat and been pooped out of the civet cat.
+
+[9:25] The civic cats poop in particular areas. They eat only the choicest coffee beans, and the enzymes in the digestive system do something to the coffee bean to make it particularly delicious. I've never tasted it, but it's extremely expensive, right? Okay. So there you go, pooping the coffee.
+
+[9:39] Now, that's washed and cleaned and sterilized and roasted, so right, nonsense. So if a person was to eat coffee beans and poop them out, would that be okay to brew coffee from? Would that be okay? No. Right.
+
+[9:50] So it's that's the question, right? I mean, like, I don't know. I don't know. Interesting question. Kind of interesting question.
+
+[9:55] I don't know. I don't really know. Someone tell me. Anyway. Uh, more stuff on the torch name.
+
+[9:59] So, as uh those who know that we're working on a new kind of torch attachment that uh you attach it to the torch and it gets rid of the taste that I associate that I call torch taste, which I used to think came from the fuel, but in fact turns out it comes from just the incredible high heat of a torch. We diffuse it, turn it into radiant heat, and we're trying to find a name for this gizmo. You can look on the cooking issues blog to get an idea of what the hell we're talking about. A couple people have written in by the way, asking where they can find the Kickstarter. The reason you can't find it is we haven't put it up yet.
+
+[10:26] We're still um we have it out what's called beta testing. So I have, you know, we've given it to a group of about uh five or six chefs, or you know, six, ten chefs, and we're having them test it now to see kind of what they what they think, what they think the problems are, what solutions are to the problems, we're making it safer, etc. etc. Right? Right.
+
+[10:45] It's a fun process. Oh, it's so fun. It's so it's so fun that Nastasha wants to stab me in the eye every morning. Okay. Uh we're we're all, you know, whatever.
+
+[10:52] I'm I could be difficult. Okay, so uh here's some of the names. Because we had a contest on the names, and uh I think we're gonna probably call like we should probably call the contest after this because we've gotten a lot of really good names in, and we're pretty sure we're gonna go with some combination of Sally plus plus something else, and we're just focusing on it. So we'll we'll go through and we'll see whether anyone actually earned the free whatever, but we really super appreciate all the names that have been sent in. And I'm gonna read the last list of the names of names.
+
+[11:19] All right, so read them right now. I have the new T abbreviation of New Torch and a nod to the salamander and eye of newt with T as a capital at the end. I like Eye of Newt because of the witch thing. But you remember, I actually have to sell this product. Like this is so like it's all funny.
+
+[11:33] Like it's all funny. Like these are things that I would come up with as well that I appreciate that I would I you know so there's Pipe Piper that works with us, he's the pun master. He should quit working with us and go just do puns for a living. For daily news, or yeah, or something, yeah. But anyway, uh or for the yeah, whatever, like the weatherman, whatever, like meteorologists.
+
+[11:49] Like he could come up with their puns left and right, it'd be awesome at it. Uh but my my point is that these are all Piper worthy puns. They're great, but uh, you know, they they don't want to necessarily have a product that's supposed to be around for years. But anyway, here's the last list. Uh Cooking Issues team.
+
+[12:04] This is from JD. I tweeted a torch name, but decided to email it just to make sure. So that was also JD. Oh, Myard Reactor. That's a good name.
+
+[12:11] Myard Reactor. But you know, again, I don't wait away. My it uh I re this is him. I realize it doesn't cover all the functionality, but I think it would be cool to pay homage, homage, pay homage, to the technical term and chemist Louis Camille Maillard. Yeah, famous, famous man, not famous in his own life, the poor SOB.
+
+[12:27] Uh also, what chef wouldn't want a serious kitchen tool that has reactor in the name? That's actually kind of true. I like reactor. I like reactor. And if you look up uh chemistry reactors online, they're pretty awesome.
+
+[12:37] It's right for all sorts of nameplay in the back of the house. My are that puppy. Give it some more Maya. Like Maya, actually. Uh love the uh love yard it up, etc.
+
+[12:46] Or Myard Reaction Torch MR Torch, you can call it Mr. Torch or Mr. T for an extremely marketable name. Uh sure you could easily get Mr. T to endorse it.
+
+[12:54] And of course the tagline would be I pity the fool. Should I do it? I can't really do Mr. T. I pity the fool who doesn't use my Siri 2.
+
+[13:01] Uh cheers, JD. That wasn't bad. Yeah. Uh it's been a long, long time, and I do love Mr. T.
+
+[13:06] Who does if you don't like Mr. T, something wrong with you. Anyway. Hey, we got a caller. Oh, yeah?
+
+[13:10] All right, we'll get well sh okay, okay. I'll go back to the names in a second. Caller, you're on the air. Hi, uh Dave. Howdy.
+
+[13:16] How's it going? Do well. I have a question of um two questions. First is uh I want to get an ISI whip. I was wondering what's your recommendation as far as uh the best ISI whip to get.
+
+[13:27] Okay, so is this for home or commercial? Um home, but uh hopefully commercial use. So kind of both, yeah. Okay, so I mean, I like the ones that first of all, you know, I I have worked with the with the company in the past, so just you know, bias there. Uh but I've you I've used the off-brand ones before, and they've been given to me and all this stuff, and I have to admit, as much as I hate shilling out for ISI here, uh the off-brand ones tend to leak and the seals are cruddy, and they just tend not to work as well.
+
+[14:01] So I stick with the name brand ones. I'm sure there's another high quality one out there, but I don't know. Then uh I prefer I've I've had the home ones that um, you know, are plastic on top and stainless elsewhere, and I think the ones that are kind of all stainless with the um with the silicone grips are are better, right? So then now the next question is what size do you want to go with? And now for all purpose uses uh I think like either get the half liter or the liter depending on what kind of volumes you're going to use.
+
+[14:29] Like unless you have a very specific application for the very small one I wouldn't say it's necessarily that useful. I tend to use liter ones and half liter ones. The you know the the thing is if you're going to do small amounts in the full liter ones you might need to dump an extra cartridge in versus if you were using the half liter one. So it but if you're not going to do it all the time it's not that big of a loss and your capacity is now all of a sudden greater right so you bear that in mind when you're when you're buying one and um the other thing is is that in general unless you have a very specific application where you need to keep something hot or cold for a long time the thermal whips which are which are insulated so they they look like they hold a liter but they only hold a half liter because they're insulated they're great if you need to keep something hot for a long time and you don't have access to like a circulator or a Bain Marie where you can just keep it in hot water but uh those applications are fairly they're fairly specific and the upcharge for the thermal whip is very large right so I mean and remember anything you can do in a thermo whip you can do slightly less conveniently in a regular ISI by either sticking it into a hot water bath or by putting it in the fridge one of the two. And if you do if you do buy a thermal whip you still you need to pre chill it or preheat it with a fluid before you dump your initial before you dump your product in or it doesn't doesn't work right.
+
+[15:53] You know if you do get the leader, you're gonna have to contend with the fact uh that you you guys gotta remember to keep your recipe or anything really any one of them you have to make sure that your recipes are the same uh volumes every time when you're doing things like infusions. For things like whipped creams and foams it doesn't matter as much. Okay. Great. And uh my second question is um I'm trying to uh mess around with making egg egg yolk batarga.
+
+[16:16] Okay. I was wondering if you have any advice on uh how to go about doing that because I've seen recipes and seen uh previous chefs I work with make batarga from uh you know uh row uh so I'm wondering if you have any advice for making egg yolk batarga. Mean regular chicken egg yolk? Egg chicken egg yolk kind of curing them so they have the same texture so you can grate them like you would batarga. Well I mean huh so how would you do that?
+
+[16:44] I guess it depends on what you what you want right so uh I mean I would look into kind of miso curing uh of egg yolks and see kind of a miso cured egg yolk and then get the initial cure. The issue is you have to get enough water out of the egg yolk so that it's stable before you undergo the normal kind of dehydration uh process. Yeah. And I know you you probably don't want the flavor I've never tried it. This is why I'm just thinking off the top of my head is I've never done it.
+
+[17:09] So like you know I'm just I I would look into seeing how the miso cured egg yolks work. Uh I mean the the bonehead easiest way to do it would be probably to cook the egg yolks out at like 64, mold them into a block and then and then with salt and then let them dry like batarga style. I don't I mean that's the bonehead easy way to do it, but it's not as elegant. I mean, if you want to keep the egg yolk whole and then grate it later, then you're gonna have to do some form of very slow uh dehydration and salting and then later expose it to air and let it dry out. You know what I'm saying?
+
+[17:43] Yeah. Um because I found a recipe for sea urchin retargo where they mix tucky with search. Oh, yeah, to bind it. And then folded it into um I mean molded it, and then from there they did the some work. I'm wondering if that is an optional technical search with egg yolks.
+
+[18:02] Um, sure. I mean the question is how how much I mean, you know, a uni is ex like the eggs, the eggs, uh the actual eggs are extremely, extremely fine in uni, right? Yeah, super fine, like much finer than they are in the fish rows that they make uh you know botarga from. So presumably some of them are still whole, and then some of them are beat up by the uh pureeing, and then and then the tapioca just glues the whole thing together, and then uh how much they add salt to it? Uh presumably?
+
+[18:31] Um presumably, yeah. Yeah. Uh yeah, they they bury they buried in kosher salt, but I don't think they added any salt to it. Right, so they they buried it in kosher salt. Right, okay.
+
+[18:41] So yeah, so then the salt is is going through biosmothy. Yeah, I mean, so if it works for that, the problem with you know, the problem with regular egg yolks is you know if you puree an egg yolk and you puree uni, pure uni is gonna have more structure pureeed. So I guess that's why they're adding the tapioca. I mean, like I don't know whether it's gonna uh super adversely affect the flavor, but just taking the egg yolk up to like 64 uh or 63 C is gonna give you enough structure to have it sit around while it's doing its thing, but I don't know if it changes the structure. And then like I say, if you you can just crack uh egg yolks into uh and do do miso curing of them because uh you know, I've I've never done it, but I've s I've seen it done.
+
+[19:17] Okay. Alrighty? Okay. I hope they have uh please tweet the uh at cooking issues and tell me what happens when you test this stuff out because uh it'll give me an idea for future people who ask me. Great.
+
+[19:27] Thank you so much. Thank you. Have a great day. You too. All right.
+
+[19:30] Uh okay, back to some torch names. What was the last one we had? Oh yeah, Celsius Chef writes in. You got like Celsius Chef. Yeah, Celsius Chef.
+
+[19:36] Although remember, I still fry in Fahrenheit and I bake in Fahrenheit, but I do all my low temperature work in Celsius. Uh Hey there, Dave and Gang. Uh the perfect name for your new tool, the Bluzuka. I totally yell that. I totally yell down the line for that, just because it's fun to say.
+
+[19:51] Keep up the great work, guys. And how do I find the project on Kickstarter if I'd like to support Celsius Chef? We'll let you know when we actually have it up. I mean, look, I gotta be honest, I love the name Blowzuka. I can't actually call it that, but blow zuka!
+
+[20:02] That was my vote, by the way. Really? I mean, how could it not be? That's an awesome name. I know.
+
+[20:06] Blozuka? Awesome. Like Bluzuka Joe. What do you think? Whoa, can we rename Joe Blozuka Joe?
+
+[20:15] Hell yeah. Can you write a song? Blozuka Joe, Joe? Yeah, Jack and I will collaborate on this. We'll have it by next week, I think.
+
+[20:21] Uh, sweet, sweet, blowzuka Joe. Okay. Uh Ole writes in, hi, here are a few names for your torch gizmo. First of all, I love the word gizmo. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[20:28] Love the word gizmo. I like the blog Gizmodo just because it's called Gizmo Doe. Anyway. Uh Torch Tamer, the seer, especially if it can also predict the future. This, by the way, was the vote of Dax, my son.
+
+[20:39] I called it Daddy's Sear for a long time, not knowing what sear, like searing. Anyway, so he calls it the seer, which is I kind of like that, but it's uh sounds like kind of like really like a cult. Yeah. The seer. Although it'd be anyway.
+
+[20:53] The humane torch. The humane torch. Like the human torch. Oh, like human torch. Yeah, human torch.
+
+[20:59] Good c good uh comic book of reference there. I think Nastasha always surprises me. I'm always surprise me. I love that. Uh Cooking Torch without Issues.
+
+[21:07] Did I get it? Yeah. Yeah. And the eye torch. Like could be I or I, because it looks like an eye.
+
+[21:12] Honestly, if you're looking to sell more than a few of these, uh find a clever name. Sous vide Torch. Uh, sell the whole deal, Torchhead included, and Sous V Torch would be the top Google search results. Gotta like a Google search result. Mm-hmm.
+
+[21:22] Yeah, gotta like that. Uh, no matter what you decide, I was standing in line, Apple store style to get one. I'm relatively relatively new to your podcast, but I'm burning through one to three a day. Many thanks. Ole.
+
+[21:31] Oh, hey you gotta mellow out on listening to this. You're you're gonna burn out. Like we're we you can't listen to three of us a day. It's not possible. Yeah.
+
+[21:37] Right? Yeah. Okay, no more submissions now. Well, the stash is so you're so harsh. I got more in this list.
+
+[21:43] Okay. What the hell's wrong with you? You're crazy. Uh Dean Wynne writes in. Hey Nastasha, Dave Jack and Joe.
+
+[21:49] I'm not sure where you guys are with the gadget names, but I ha I like gadget too, good word. Uh, but I had to throw my hat in. I also like the term throw hat in. Initially I thought about broiling and searing, but what you really are doing is applying heat by hand with the precision of an artist. So that led to the idea of a brush, fire brush, flash brush, and torch brush.
+
+[22:04] Brushes, brush. Uh, thanks for the show. I love uh um thanks. I love the show and listen to all the podcasts, hoping to hear my name on the next show. Dean Nguyen, here's your name again, Dean.
+
+[22:12] Dean Nguyen. Thank you for your uh submission, right? Yeah, yeah. Uh okay. Is that it?
+
+[22:18] For the names. Okay. So no more. All right, so should we take a commercial break? Yeah.
+
+[22:22] All right, first commercial break. Pasture raised on a hundred and fifty thousand acres in central California. Sustainably produced, humane. Oh yeah. And you're back.
+
+[23:56] Hey, welcome back to King. I thought we're doing the cover. No, we're gonna close the show with the cover. Okay, we have a cover of my favorite grass, uh, grass uh fed beef song. Coming to you from Joe Gargano.
+
+[24:06] Okay. This question in from Buddha regarding bacon substitution. Hi, Nastasha, Dave, Jack, Joe, et al. Are there any good substitutes for bacon or pork in recipes for soups or other dishes where they are used mainly as a flavoring and not as a focus? I'm a lifelong vegetarian and I've never intentionally eaten meat, let alone bacon.
+
+[24:25] Uh, although you know, you know, uh everyone knows this. Everyone knows bacon's delicious, so you don't eat it, but I mean, obviously, you know that it's delicious, even though you haven't eaten it because it's just straight up is, right? Right. Yeah. Uh, I'm a lifelong okay, never intentionally eaten meat, let alone bacon.
+
+[24:39] Normally when I come across a recipe that calls for bacon, hammer pork, I will just leave it out. Obviously, I avoid recipes in which the meat is the bulk or main item. Recently, I've come to realize that this is leaving me with bland recipes that are clearly missing something. Most likely strong flavor components from the meat. Navy bean soup has this.
+
+[24:57] I'm assuming a much uh navy bean soup has, I'm assuming, a much different flavor profile with and without ham. Uh this most recently came to a head when trying to adapt a cheddar ale recipe I found on the Sirius Eats blog. What can I do to overcome this issue? I am an ovo lacto vegetarian, so solutions involving dairy or eggs are fine with me. When I've asked for solutions to this among my friends, who may be foodies but not necessarily chefs, the general answer is it can't be done, or to add some salt, fat, and liquid smoke.
+
+[25:26] Thanks for your thoughts, and I hope cooking issues continu uh continues to entertain and enlighten Buddha. Okay, this is a great question. Uh and the issue is is that uh a lot of chefs who don't have uh, you know, certain constraints, you know, whether you want to call them constraints or not, but you know, certain ingredients that they won't use, uh, they tend to uh ignore the the problem and say things like, Oh, I just can't do it, or just add something that's you know relatively not so good. Like uh and by the way, there are good liquid smokes. Uh, and obviously smoke is one of the components in bacon and something that you're gonna be missing if you don't have smoking this.
+
+[26:01] But there are there are better ways than using uh a low-quality liquid smoke. High quality liquid smoke is good stuff, but it's also hard to dose liquid smoke. You add a little too much liquid smoke and all of a sudden there's there's problems. Anyway, back to that. Uh so uh the the the question, and people, like I say, they they ignore it.
+
+[26:17] Me, on the other hand, even though I eat bacon, you know, quite often, uh, and I use it a lot as a seasoning meat. I think you know, bacon and country ham are two of my most favorite seasoning meats where you don't actually have to use that much of it to get a good result. But uh saying what can you do uh to get around it is to me is an interesting problem and something to solve. So here here here are my thoughts. What is it that bacon uh is is adding?
+
+[26:40] So it's adding salt, right? So you need to add salt. It's also adding um it's also adding smoke if you're using American bacon, which is why I like American bacon, even in recipes where I shouldn't like American bacon, like Italian recipes where Nastashi's like, you have to use pancetta because it's not authentic. And I really I don't care if it's authentic because I like the smoke, right? Stash, you you hate it, right?
+
+[27:02] Really? Yeah. Since when? You've been yelling at me for years, for years. You should use pancetta, but usually they the ones that they sell in the store is really bad.
+
+[27:11] Yeah, well, you heard it here first. Yeah, you heard it here first. It turns out that we're American and we like smoky bacon even when we should. But in Italy, the pancetta is smoky. It's just not, you can't find it here.
+
+[27:24] Whatever. Okay. Did you ever you ever buy that panchetta, the like packaged panchetta at the store? It's so bad. I've never purchased that.
+
+[27:30] Oh man. I've never good look. So Buddha, we're not answering your question. Here, back to your question. So uh smokiness is definitely something you need to replace when you're replacing a smoked ham product or a bacon product.
+
+[27:40] Now, liquid smoke isn't the way to go. So, like if you were doing a do a pizza and you wanted it to have a little bit of that uh component, right? Then uh, for instance, I I have to always when I make pizzas, I have to make them vegetarian, completely vegetarian because my cousin who comes over and eats at my house is vegetarian and won't eat uh you know, won't eat meat. So I can't put anchovies into my sauce, which is a normal one of my techniques that I put in, and no one's ever complained because it tastes delicious and it adds a lot of umami and so. No, he won't.
+
+[28:08] Anyway, so uh smoked mozzarella, right, is a good way to add smoke uh in that form. Uh or if you're doing a cheddar uh ale thing, use a smoked cheese, but high quality, not a crappy one where they spray fake smoke on it. Umly, smoked paprika uh or pimentone, a fantastic way to add uh smokiness to um a dish. So, right, so th you know, those are the how else do I add smoke? There's a lot of anything that you add that is smoked naturally can add some of those smoky flavors and probably does it in a way that you're gonna like better than just adding uh straight up uh liquid smoke, which like I say is hard to dose and it can it can go from being too little to all of a sudden being too much, and also a low quality liquid smoke is very monotonic.
+
+[28:52] It has one very characteristic kind of note to it, in part because of the way it's produced, and in part because you can't buy a high quality one usually. Anyway, okay. So the other things, I mean, salt is obvious, you can add salty things, but I usually like to add salty foods that aren't just adding pure salt, but to also add the umami products that you get, the meaty umami uh things that you get out of um out of things like bacon. So, how do you get that? Any food that contains uh amino acids that have been broken down somewhat into smaller uh tasty uh you know uh polypeptides and like breakdown, like protein breakdown products, especially if they've been cooked to give them some of that cooked flavor that you would get out of uh cooking bacon in a pan before you uh add the soup stuff to it, right?
+
+[29:38] Anything that's gonna add those flavors is going to make your product better. So that's when you start pulling out like uh parmesan cheese being great uh as something that adds umami because it's been aged for a long, long time and the proteins have broken down, and you get a much richer, more umami feel out of it, right? Tomato products, clearly very high in umami. Ground up cured olives, right? Are excellent uh uh umami carrying um thingamajigs.
+
+[30:05] Uh also uh liquid aminos, right? So uh fermented sauces. Now that when you think of something to add umami to soups, uh the your mind probably first goes directly to soy. The problem is if you add soy to a product, all of a sudden it uh it starts tasting Asian, right? So you can go to different products like coconut liquid aminos or any sort of fermented, broken down uh product where you're getting some of those meaty notes that you would otherwise get from a uh from adding straight meat.
+
+[30:35] Oh, and obviously mushrooms. Uh it was is it any good? Am I missing anything? No, you're good. Yeah, I mean, like, and so some combination of all of those things, but even just like making sure that you stock items that allow you to do quick uh substitutions, like a really high quality smoked pimentone, like smoked paprika, and you know, always always, you know, maybe try the coconut liquid aminos, see what you think.
+
+[30:56] Uh and just you know, work that way. I think you probably have good luck. Yeah? Mm-hmm. Okay.
+
+[31:01] Uh Ruben writes in about his home kitchen. Uh Hammerjack, Joe, and Dave. I'm an avid fan of the show. Thanks so much for all your contributions and work and for the chartreuse, which is the drink we do at the bar. It's it's really just uh chartreuse, uh, green chartreuse and uh water chilled carbonated with uh a little bit of uh clarified lime juice in it, like really carbonated.
+
+[31:21] Anyway, uh Ruben says that's one tasty beverage. I'm sure the Carthusians would agree. You know, we met the we met the president, Nastasha and Piper and I met the president of Chartreuse uh the other day, and uh he was kind of hilarious. Like, I would like to go visit those monks someday. Apparently, you know they can't talk to Carthusians when they're doing their when they're in the monastery, but if you get them outside the monastery, they uh they they they can talk.
+
+[31:42] Loved it, I loved it. I mean, that movie that they did looked incredibly boring, but I'd love to go visit them, right? Anyway, uh whatever. Okay, question. Uh I'm in the conceptual stages of renovating the kitchen in my apartment.
+
+[31:53] As a home cook and devotee of many contemporary techniques discussed here and elsewhere, I'd like to create a work area that is functional for the current state of the art, yet flexible enough to incorporate future innovations. I have a small space, don't we all, right? Uh limited budget, I'm familiar with this problem, uh and one shot at this. Much as I'd like, I don't have the luxury of putting in a completely restaurant-style work area that would render my apartment unsaleable. This is a huge problem, by the way.
+
+[32:19] So, like my kitchen at home is ridiculous, and you know, it probably would be an impediment to selling it because I have the huge deep fryer, the huge six-burner range, all this other stuff. Um, as wonderful as it is to have new ways to approach cooking, it's frustrating that uh design thinking and ergonomics have seemingly not kept pace. Hearing your recent offhand thoughts about the outdated state of technologies like home refrigeration makes me further concerned that any specialized approach uh I take might be limiting in the future. Would you share any tips, must-do's, cautionary tales, uh, or overarching philosophies or nominally related tangents, uh, familiar with us, I guess. Uh you or uh have uh faced or anyone you know is faced with similar quandaries.
+
+[32:57] Thanks much. Ruben, okay. Uh here's the thing. So uh look, at home, you know, I it's very hard. You have to choose whether you're either going to have uh convenient, like convenient, easy home stuff, or you have in the past, had to choose between easy, convenient home stuff and uh like hardcore restaurant stuff.
+
+[33:18] And the hardcore restaurant stuff has a lot of problems for homes. For instance, regular restaurant uh kitchen stoves throw off a boatload of heat. They're not as well insulated. Uh they typically have standing pilots, it means they're running all the time. So in the summertime they really heat up your house.
+
+[33:35] Uh in fact, in the summertime, I turn the pilot off in my oven and I just leave my oven off and I do all my cooking in the salamander and and on my uh on my crepe maker for most of the time because uh no one wants to have that oven raging during the during the summertime. It's crazy. Right. So for some reason, there is a there's a real disconnect. So, you know, the most that most people at home, and and I wouldn't recommend getting that, even if you could resell your house with it.
+
+[34:00] And by the way, the professional stove, like a lar a lot of people get freaked out by it. Like they don't, especially mine, because it's all PID controlled and like electronic and you have to plug it in in five different places. My mine, mine in particular is a nightmare. But people get weirded out by it. They love the idea of these uh you can't see the quote, you know, quote marks that my fingers are making, but professional style home ones.
+
+[34:23] Most of the ones I've used that are professional style home ones are fairly lacking in terms of their output power. However, um if you can find uh like one that's like one of these kind of home professional jobs in a stainless uh that has a fairly high output burner, and I don't have any recommendations because I haven't used one at home. I I use uh an old garland that you know I bought at a restaurant auction for almost nothing. But by the way, another tack you can take uh with a limited budget is to go to restaurant auctions if you live in a place where there's a restaurant auction, get the commercial oven that you actually want, install it, and and when it comes time to uh sell your apartment, throw it away and buy a normal uh oven to put into your into your kitchen. That's what I plan on doing, like when I sell my apartment.
+
+[35:09] I'm just gonna rip out my oven that it's put in like many, many years of good service to me that I bought for $500 including the salamander at an auction right uh I'm just gonna hurl it you know into the abyss or give it to someone who wants it to be someone you should option please my it will be unsafe I can't actually give it to anyone because so many modifications that I wouldn't want anyone else to have to give them it with the what's it called I don't know what that means it says I don't know that yeah whatever anyway yeah sure so I can get so I can get my butt handed to me. Anyway the um point being that you can put that in for very little money if you're willing to put up with the inconvenience and then later put in uh a new unit but I wouldn't necessarily go there but you definitely need uh good high output burners uh if you have a lot of electricity and you don't have a lot of ventilation induction might be the way to go if your cookware it can stand it although I have to say having grown up I mean I honestly believe that induction is the wave of the future uh but you know I'm an old school like you know gas flame fiend and I don't know that the in the induction I I use induction at work exclusively because we don't have gas burners at work and I still I still would feel very sad if I didn't have my gas burners at my house. You know what about you stuzz? Yeah definitely although an electric oven might be the way to go I mean it depends on how much modification you're willing to do and how handy you are I mean I I recommend having a uh a deep fryer only for me most people wouldn't do that and that would destroy the resale value of your kitchen so I wouldn't do that although I highly recommend owning one if you if if you want to become a monk of the fry then you need to have a real fryer. I think that's just the case.
+
+[36:48] Anyway, but but you're not gonna do that, so it doesn't matter. Well, I would just maximize your counter space. Uh from a I would get, you know, six burners that can do a really good job that also throttle down to a low enough setting that that uh you know they're still useful. Make sure your oven uh has a full sheet pan capacity. If you have a full sheet pan capacity oven and six burners, and then you you give yourself enough space to have a um enough space to have all the ancillary equipment like your circulators uh or you know, counter space for the vacuum, things like this, then I think you're gonna be in good shape.
+
+[37:26] Problem uh also I would throw away here's the big thing I think everyone mistake everyone makes. They have all these different kinds of bowls and all these different kinds of gotzis in their kitchen, and then they they never know how to use them and never find them. If like uh I'll give you the quick example. You have to plan to have space in your kitchen to have the stuff out. My old uh loft, the uh my pasta machine, my the roller, you know, the Atlas pasta machine roller was bolted to my countertop.
+
+[37:51] So consequently, I made pasta uh about uh once a week. Once or twice a week, depending. I would make pasta because everything was out, and the amount of time it took me to make the pasta was roughly equivalent to the amount of time it would take me to cook dry pasta because I was so fast because I did it all the time. Uh in my new kitchen, I don't have space, it's not bolted to the counter. I've lived there for ten years, and in ten years I've made pasta ten times because the stuff's not out.
+
+[38:20] You need to have so like I think the main problem people make when they're when they're trying to, if they want to use something all the time at home, you have to make it convenient. And I would have uh a mixture of open and closed storage so that your uh open storage is very fast, you don't have to worry about it. I would throw away all your odd-size bowls, I would go to a kitchen supply store and buy inexpensive stainless steel bowls uh in four sizes. I would buy six of each size: large, uh a very small for Mise en plus stuff, and then uh uh a next size up, a next size up, and a large. I would have stacks of those.
+
+[38:56] Do not stack them inside of each other, put them next to each other. Get two, like two or three different sizes of stackable uh like Pyrexes or measuring cups in two different sizes and have those things out so that they work and get like, you know, easy to use things for like uh bulk storage of flour that seal properly so that you don't get vermin problems. And like though that's like the biggest, that's like the biggest thing. You know what I mean? Like keeping those stuff uh in and out and being able to grab those things very quickly.
+
+[39:23] Then make like I say, make sure you have enough room for your circulator and make sure you have enough power. The problem with a lot of these new techniques is that uh you're plugging stuff in and then all of a sudden you don't have enough power and you're blowing circuits. So you're running your nuke at the same time that you're running your rice cooker, and if you have an electric uh pressure cooker and you're starting blowing circuits everywhere. So think about trying to run a few extra circuits in and just make sure you have enough burner work. And the last thing I will say is please try to get uh good ventilation into your kitchen.
+
+[39:53] I have done I shouldn't see this, but like illegally vented my kitchen. Uh I put a uh um like a what's the word? You know, dryer ducts? Yeah, dryer duct. So it looks like I have a dryer duct, but I've been venting my whole kitchen uh out of it.
+
+[40:08] And you have to be really careful and know what you're doing to make sure that you're not causing a fire hazard when you're venting from uh you know, like a kitchen. But even if it means just putting a good fan in your window and trying to get the stuff out, please make sure you ventilate properly because when you're doing uh finishing of low temperature meats that you've cooked, you generate a lot of smoke and it can be problematic if you don't vent. Does this make any sense? Alright. So let's take one more commercial break and come back with cooking issues.
+
+[41:15] Whoa. This is a very dark cover of the Hearst Ranch grass-fed beef song. Yeah, it's like cows going to slaughter. You see, he says whenever she says something like that, she leans back. I hope you folks at the home heard that.
+
+[41:29] Yeah, she's like, yeah, he's you think you think uh Joel's focusing on the slaughter aspect? It's like imagine like playing that, like I can imagine like the helicopters flying in and like you know, strafing the cows. Yeah. So, you know, slaughter of slaughter via minigun. Hurst ranch, grass fed beef.
+
+[41:49] Crazy. Alright. Uh Tom Flash and writes in uh at drink a drink away time, which is uh I guess his Twitter handle, uh for stabilizing frozen drinks like margaritas, is gum type important. Xanthan, Arabic, guar, etc. Okay, look.
+
+[42:07] I have not done a lot of testing uh trying to stabilize frozen drinks, but here's the problem. Uh so if you're talking about a frozen drink in a blender, right? The issue with stabilizing it is that ice floats. And when you're blending, you're making little ice crystals. So you what you have in general is a nice uh kind of mixture of ice crystals and drink.
+
+[42:28] Then slowly the ice crystals s uh float up to the top and and it breaks. Now, I guess what you're suggesting is to add enough of a thickener to the product such that those ice crystals remain suspended. Now I guess it's possible to do it, and if it was very slushy, it wouldn't be a problem. Uh you wouldn't want to use so your choices were Xanthan, Arabic, guar. Okay.
+
+[42:54] So Arabic is not so much a uh gonna be good for um keeping keeping the ice particle stationary. Assuming we're even talking about the same thing. I think we are, right? Uh Arabic is gonna be more good at uh stabilizing air bubbles and foams, right? So for adding like a good, you know, foamy head, or for emulsifying oils into something.
+
+[43:16] So it's very good uh at emulsifying and it's good at kind of uh at adding body, but you have to add a whole boatload of Arabic for you to get like great viscosity out of it because uh Arabic is one of the very few hydrocolloids that is ping pong ball shaped instead of spaghetti shaped. And ping pong ball shaped things are m imagine trying to punch through uh a bunch of ping pong balls a lot easier than trying to punch through a mat of spaghetti or felt, right? So think about it. So uh um gum arabic, ping pong ball shaped can, and that's why you can have extremely high concentrations of gum arabic and still have things be liquid. So I wouldn't necessarily use uh Arabic if if the application you're talking about is what I think you're talking about.
+
+[44:03] Now, uh guar, uh problem with guar, uh aside from the fact that nine tenths of guar uh is not good. It tastes beanie because it hasn't been refined enough. Uh but you can get really good refined guar called flavor-free guar. A couple people make it, but the one I use is from T I C gums called flavor-free guar. Plus also, you know guar very expensive now due to fracking, fracking, fracking.
+
+[44:24] Uh we talked about that a million times, right? Okay, so I don't need to talk about it again. Although it makes me angry. Anyway, uh not the fracking, the guar. And uh, I mean, I mean maybe the fracking makes me angry.
+
+[44:32] I just don't know enough about it. Anyway, uh, that's not what I'm talking about. The problem with guar is that uh guar is literally just a thickening agent. So it'll slow down uh how fast ice crystals are moving through the liquid, but it's not going to stop them, right? Because guar solutions have no what's called yield point.
+
+[44:49] They they flow slowly, but they always flow, right? So uh I mean uh just imagine this. They just they always it's just a matter of how fast they flow. Xanthan, on the other hand, which is the first one that you uh mentioned, Xanthan gum has what's called a yield point, which means that uh even in fairly low concentrations, uh unless a product is moving, the um it Xanthan acts like a gel. There's no movement at all.
+
+[45:21] It's stationary. And then once you apply any force, it undergoes what's called shear thinning, and it turns to a liquid very, very quickly, right? Very quickly. And this is a uh this is a like a well-known uh property of Xanthan, and it's why you can use Xanthan in combinations with other things to um do things like uh stop uh pepper and other salad parts, you know, salad dressing particles from floating to the top. You can keep them suspended.
+
+[45:44] Uh you know, fluid gels are also very good at this. So you can use so orbits, the old orbits uh drink that had those little balls floating in them was a fluid gel that was made out of gel-an gum that was blended, and then with xanthan added. Right. Also, if you thicken somewhat with something like guar, you can add less xanthan. Here are the problems, right?
+
+[46:07] Uh over xanthan products uh have a snotty, slimy texture to them. So you can add some, but you can't add too much. If you add like a quarter percent, if that's enough to suspend it, then you're okay. But if you have to add much more than a quarter percent of xanthan, uh you want to want to start adding other things to help uh you know help hold with the xanthan, or you get these kind of snotty, slimy textures. The other thing is is that the ability of a fluid gel or a hydrocolloid like xanthan with a yield point to suspend particles like ice is very dependent on the density difference between uh the products you're suspending and the size of the particles.
+
+[46:44] So the bigger the density difference, the harder it is to suspend. And the larger the particle with a given density difference, the harder it is to suspend. Ice is quite a bit less dense than uh than the drink that it's in. Quite a bit less. And so it can be fairly hard to keep suspended.
+
+[47:01] But that said, you could try some Xanthan, and maybe anyone else out there has tried this, they can give it a shot. Uh the only problem is if the drink sits around for a long time and you've suspended it, once it melts, it'll have that weird uh Xanthan look to it, right? Right. So if someone's gonna pound it right away, I guess it's not a big problem. But anyway, I I could think more about it, but those are just my current thoughts.
+
+[47:21] Yeah? Good. Yeah, yeah, stuff is like. I need her there. She's like, she's like, Dave, shut up about the Xanthan, shut up.
+
+[47:26] Okay. Uh Morton Mattson writes in again, uh, which we appreciate. Uh dear Dave, thanks once again for your input on my quail egg conundrum. Because we were talking about the ISI with the quail egg, and I think that's great. I want uh, you know, someone to we like if I whatever.
+
+[47:39] I think it's a good idea. I'm very happy that I'm very happy about that. Anyway, uh I have a comment and a question for you. Firstly, I've been thinking about the question you had in last week about the use of nanoparticles in food. And so uh just to recap, uh, you know, there's these particles, nanoparticles, and uh particle size is not regulated uh by um the FDA, and therefore uh, you know, something that could be safe in normal size uh might possibly be rendered unsafe by turning it into tiny, tiny, tiny particles.
+
+[48:09] So um right, so that is what we're talking about. Um the first thing that popped into my head was the appearance of nanoparticle solutions. A solution of even-sized nanoparticles will appear as a clear colored liquid. The uh color of liquid is determined directly by the size of the nanoparticles. The reason uh a clear, by the way, clear colored, you know, a lot of people when they when they think about clear, they they the right thing to think about is clear versus cloudy, and then color versus uh, you know, non colored, right?
+
+[48:40] So a cloudy, colorless solution is white, and a you know, a clear colored solution, it has a color to it. Now a lot of people have this issue when they when we talk about clarification, they expect clarification to take the color out. Clarification clarification doesn't take the color out. Clarification all it does is take out the cloudiness. Um the color of the liquid is determined directly by the size of the nanoparticles.
+
+[49:05] The reason that the solution does not appear opaque as milk is that the scattering regime changes when the particle size gets comparable with the wavelength of visible light. And by the way, emulsions are cloudy because um this is me talking now. Uh emulsions are cloudy because um the particles scatter light. Once you have what's called a microemulsion and the actual thing, you know, the the emulsified product in it, uh all of a sudden the particles get smaller than the wavelength of light, then the emulsion goes clear. Anyway, um this random.
+
+[49:33] Um in this regime, the behavior is determined by me scattering. Uh I think it's pronounced me, although I don't know. I think so. Anyway, uh one application of this could be coloring drinks uh as almost any desired color could be achieved. Secondly, one could imagine changing the solution such that the nanoparticles flocculate together and change the appearance of the solution completely.
+
+[49:50] Could we could have used this kind of concept when we were dealing with uh with that uh drink you had to make in Florida that time, remember, Stas? Yes, I know. Yeah, yeah. Coloidal gold solutions are one candidate for this purpose. I've seen colloidal gold solutions approved for medical applications, so I would imagine they could be consumed.
+
+[50:05] Uh generally on the issue of safety, I would agree with you that it is an issue that is riddled with biased thinking. It is of course also a very complicated issue since the properties of the materials uh change when the particles become nano-sized. This is of course also why we generally find them so interesting. Uh I felt that one cannot make any general statements on the safety of nanoparticles. Rather, one should consider each one individually.
+
+[50:25] And before I go on to the question, is that's the comment, uh, before I go on to the question, let me just say I went and looked on the internet at the uh at the at pictures of uh different size gold nanoparticle solutions. And you know what really struck me is that the color difference based on the size of it very, very closely looks like the exact color shift that happens to anthocyanin pigments when the pH is changed. So they go from red to uh blue to well, red to violet, to blue to green, to colorless. So uh you know I and I'm I never actually thought about it before. What the heck is going on when you're changing the pH uh with anthocyanins?
+
+[51:05] I mean it's gotta be something where you're changing the conformation or something of the anthocyanin and therefore um you know changing its reaction to the way it scatters light, but I never really thought about it. It's interesting that the gold the gold solutions look almost exactly like anthocyanin solutions at different pHs. Well I mean it's interesting to me, probably to no one else. Definitely not to nostalgia. Nastash is like, please can I buy some shoes on Zappos?
+
+[51:26] Please asked me, he got the wrong size the other day. So what? Are you for real? You and Piper ordering shoes for twice. I think we single-handedly support Zappos.
+
+[51:36] I've never ordered shoes on Zappos. You've never ordered shoes on Zappos. Never. What shoe site do you shop on? Zero.
+
+[51:42] I go to pay less shoe source. You go to payless on Delancey. They have a website. Payless? No.
+
+[51:49] I go there by myself. Whatever. Whatever. She's not wearing pay less shoes right now. Yes, I am.
+
+[51:53] These are payless. Well, whatever. That then whatever. I'm not gonna get it. Okay.
+
+[51:58] So uh the actual question deals with acrylamide. Within the last couple of days here in Denmark, all the news have been dominated by scares of acrylamide in food. The reason for this is the Technical University of Denmark has published a new study uh where they connected acrylamide to cancer. And I couldn't get that study. Did you get email that study, Nastash?
+
+[52:14] I couldn't get the study. Maybe it's only in Danish. I was looking for it, I couldn't find it. Anyway, uh the Technical University of Denmark has published a new study where they have connected acrylamide to cancer, presumably connected again because it's been connected a bunch of times and then debunked and then connected and then debunked. This, of course, is nothing new in general, but their study includes statistics for humans as well as rats and mice.
+
+[52:34] In general, for these studies, I've always felt it's not fair to compare studies made on animals to humans. Humans are unique in having cooked and eaten foods for thousands of years and therefore having been exposed to these products of cooking. I would like it if you could say a few wise words, well I don't know about that. A few wise words about acrylamide. The problem here in Denmark is that the scare has reached a level where politicians are talking about making regulations towards acrylamide.
+
+[52:54] Since this means not being able to buy bread with a crust or even crunchy french fries, I'm naturally opposed to the idea. It seems that scientists making the studies have been victims of oversimplifications in the media, but still their results remain. I've seen a couple of papers where enzymes, specifically uh asparagonase, have been used to reduce acrylamide in potato chips. Does one need to worry about acrylamide, or is this another minor extra risk that we should be willing to take for the sake of good food? And also, can we find reasonable means of reducing acrylamide without compromising the food we all love?
+
+[53:22] Best wishes, Morton Madsen. Interesting question. So for those of you that are fresh to the acrylamide problem, here it is. In 2002, Swedish scientists uh found that what was known is known or has been known as both a uh human um like mu like me like uh reproductive harm, like mutagen, right, and also possible carcinogen, acrylamide, uh at least it was found to cause cancer or have been found to cause cancer in uh laboratory animals with very high dosages, by the way. Uh turns out that it's occurring in foods, and it's not an additive.
+
+[53:59] Uh, it just happens when products get cooked at high temperatures, right? And so uh, and you know anything that is browned or and contains starch uh has been found to have uh acrylamide in it, just naturally occurring. And so when this first came out in 2002, it was a big hoopla of you know, of what was going to go on, and then of course there was the people, oh my god, they're adding the stuff to food. No, there's not adding, and it's not new. It's not some sort of new environmental problem.
+
+[54:25] It's always been there. Acrylamide has always been in our food supply. When I say always, at least since we've been cooking things. Anytime we've cooked things, uh, especially starchy things, and we've cooked them to the point where they get brown and delicious, uh, acrylamide was formed. I haven't read the uh article you were talking about uh that was talking about asparagonase, but according to the FDA, and I haven't read you know all the hard hardcore studies, uh, FDA's site says acrylamides formed from sugars and amino and an amino acid aspergine during certain types of high temperature cooking, such as frying, roasting, and baking.
+
+[54:55] So there might be some way to reduce it there. Um it becomes a really sticky thing because now all of a sudden people are saying, well, uh you ha you know, you have this product, acrylamide, and it's in all uh all of the food that we eat, right? Basically, anything that's cooked, it's brown. I mean, if you're a raw foodist, you're safe. Safe, safe.
+
+[55:16] Uh, well, from that. Uh I mean, your bowels may be a different problem. But like, you know, you're safe from acrylamide. Uh, so you know, and and even if you don't eat bread or start coffee, right, because it's roasted, cocoa, because it's roasted, anything that's roasted with its high temperature. So, what are you gonna do?
+
+[55:31] Uh, and it we have a thing in California, uh, well, I mean, I don't live in California, Stas has a thing in California called uh Prop 65. You familiar with that? No. No, no, no. You know the problem?
+
+[55:42] Like Prop 65? So in California, if you if you have a if you're on a list uh of if you if you have any product that you're selling that contains a known carcinogen, you have to write on it uh that this product contains uh something known to the state of California to cause cancer, right? And you're you're obliged to warn that it's in there. So there's a huge lawsuit because McDonald's makes like a zillion dollars selling French fries every year. And so a bunch of lawyers went and filed lawsuits in California saying that they had to warn their customers that the French fries might cause cancer because of acrylamide because it contains acrylamide.
+
+[56:14] And that was a big to-do. And you know, I mean it's foolishness, obviously, it's foolishness. You know what I mean? Uh, you know, a friend of mine was involved with it, and I told him I was like, this is foolishness because it's it's always been there, it's been there. I actually went on the internet to look it up, and there was a Starbucks that had the warning sign about acrylamide and coffee.
+
+[56:36] I don't know whether that's actually Drigueur in California or whether someone just put it up as a joke, but anyway, people are taking that uh seriously. However, uh, you know, the and here's the other problem with it. The numbers are all over the map. So I, you know, FDA has a very interesting site, and because they don't really know what's going on uh with acrylamide, they're still trying to figure out what the heck the deal is. I'll tell you, I'll tell here's what they say.
+
+[56:57] In 2013, the FDA, this is straight off their website, F FDA.gov. Uh in 2013, FDA intends to issue guidance for industry concerning acrylamide in food. Since 2002, the FDA has initiated a broad range of activities related to acrylamide. FDA's accomplishments include the following developing developing an action plan outlining the FDA's goals and planned activities, convening meetings, developing methods for measuring acrylamide, analyzing the acrylamide results, which they did. They analyzed 2,600 samples of food and acrylamide, including like they'll go to like eight different Popeyes.
+
+[57:29] I think it was more like three, but like three different Popeyes, like five different RBs, like two different Burger Kings, and they'll measure the French fries and all of them. And here's what sucks, right? So, like different establishments or even the same establishment on different days, or like one Lay's product and then a different Lay's product have vastly different, vastly different acrylamide levels. So it's not even something that's like standard that they can tell. They don't really even know.
+
+[57:54] I mean, uh, you know, they're working on ways to get rid of it. But here's here's I haven't read, I can't read the Denmark thing uh because I can't I can't get to it. I couldn't find it. But uh there is a study out that I will read the uh beginning of for you uh that came out last year. Okay?
+
+[58:11] It's called Review of the Epidemiological I'm gonna get it for you so I can get it for you exactly right. The review of the uh epit epidemiologic studies of dietary acrylamide intake and the risk of cancer. And I will read to you by Lauren Lipworth. I'll read to you the uh abstract. Conjectured associations between dietary acrylamide intake and cancer have been evaluated in more than 15 epidemiologic studies examining almost every major cancer site.
+
+[58:40] We have critically reviewed uh the epidemiologic studies of estimated dietary acrylamide exposure and cancer. As substantially greater acrylamide exposure occurs through tobacco smoke than dietary exposure, we present the results separately for never smokers or adjusted statistically for smoking status where possible. After an extensive examination of the published literature, we found no consistent or credible evidence that dietary acrylamide increases the risk of any type of cancer in humans, either overall or among non-smokers. In particular, this is the important part. The collective evidence suggests that a high level of dietary acrylamide is not a risk factor for breast endometrial or ovarian cancers, which have generated particular interest because of a conjectured hormonal hormonal mechanism for acrylamide.
+
+[59:24] Moreover, the absence of a positive association between smoking and ovarian and endometrial cancers cancers suggests that any association of these cancers with the much lower, more sporadic dietary acrylamide intake is unlikely. In conclusion, epidemiologic studies of dietary acrylamide have uh intake have failed to demonstrate an increased risk of cancer, and here's my favorite part. In fact, the sporadically and slightly increased and decreased risk of ratios reported in more than two dozen papers uh strongly suggest the pattern one would expect to find for a true null association over the course of a series of trials. There. Therefore, uh continued epidemiologic investigation of acrylamide and cancer risk appears to be a misguided research primary pri uh priority.
+
+[1:00:06] In a reaction to that, uh there was a reaction to that, uh, and not uh not unsurprisingly, it was called Reaction on the Acrylamide and Cancer Review by Lipworth and colleagues by uh Janekie uh Hogeworst out of um uh where is this from? They're from the Netherlands, and they they basically they disagree with some of the things, but their conclusion is some weak sauce. They're can the actual criticism in this article that is we believe that the author's statement that continued epidemiologic research into the possible link between dietary acrylamide exposure and cancer appears to be a misguided priority, is itself misguided and based on flawed reasoning. We should be working towards better classification of dietary acrylamide exposure and establishing the possible mode of action rather than giving up on it entirely. So they're like, well, you know, we should give up, just not entirely.
+
+[1:00:53] You know? That's like a weak way to end your paper, right? Weak weak, weak. We'll give up, but just not entirely. But uh, I can't find the Denmark study.
+
+[1:01:00] Uh but I'm gonna say this. If I have a slightly increased cancer rate, and this is a horrible thing to say flippy, but it like if there is a slight, slight uptick, and it means that I can't ever have delicious French fries again, to hell with it. I'm having the French fries, cooking issues. Hey Dave. Yeah.
+
+[1:01:17] We've got one more write in. Uh somebody wants to suggest inflamo. For the uh Inflammo. Inflammo. Oh, wait, and Jack, uh, I know we're late.
+
+[1:01:26] We have a contest here. We do. We have one final contest. So the Just Food Conference, and if you don't know who Just Food is, they're a nonprofit organization that connects communities with local farms. Really cool people.
+
+[1:01:29] We love them. We'll be doing a presentation on how to make your own podcast. The conference is this weekend, and we're giving away two tickets to the listener who can tell me the original theme song for cooking issues. So tweet us, email us, info at heritage radio network dot org, and uh hopefully you win. What are they what are they what are they gonna get again?
+
+[1:01:54] Two tickets to the Just Food Conference, which is this weekend. Okay, so hurry up. Hurry up. Cooking issues! Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org.
+
+[1:02:16] You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today.
+
+[1:02:40] Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Fairway Market, like no other market, a New York City institution that sells the best local, national, and international artisan foods for prices that can't be beat. For more information, visit fairway market.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Cooking issues!
+
+[1:01] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cookie. Woo! Nice. Nice.
+
+[1:07] Come to you live! Are we uh are we in Bushwick or Bushwick Brooklyn? What sh is it? Uh the second one. And you know it's Bushwick because someone's jackhammering on our roof.
+
+[1:18] Don't worry, it's just a radio station. How you doing, Stas? Okay. That's crazy. You hear that?
+
+[1:24] I feel like this might be like, you know, Yosemite Sam's gonna come falling through the ceiling. Yeah. Yeah? Joined as usual with Jack and Joe in the uh engineering booth. How you guys doing?
+
+[1:33] Hello. Yeah? Doing pretty good. Yeah, nice. Alright.
+
+[1:36] Going to questions to 7184972128. That's 7184972128. We might even be able to hear you over the jackhammering. Maybe. Maybe.
+
+[1:44] So I was reminded by something. Uh I biked here, and uh again being out of shape and old. It's my I'm 42 now. Woo! Just had my birthday.
+
+[1:50] Yeah. Uh besides being out of shape and old and having someone jackhammer above my head, uh, I was uh thinking about biking. Uh we saw I saw someone last week. Uh and uh biking through the streets in New York, and they were on the ground in a bloody pile, holding their head, rolling and writhing in pain, surrounded by a group of people waiting for the ambulance to show up. And what's the moral of this?
+
+[2:16] Wear a freaking helmet, people! If you're out there biking, wear a freaking helmet. I don't care how important your hair is to you. You know who I'm talking to, Brooklyn hipsters. Put on a helmet.
+
+[2:27] What do you guys think of the engineering booth about helmets? I wholeheartedly agree. Yeah. I mean, I it You know it's a bad look, uh like uh bleeding out of your head. That's a pretty bad look.
+
+[2:38] Yeah, it's a terrible, and I'll tell you what, like everyone they move here from wherever they came from, right? Like they go to college or they do whatever they're gonna do, they move to New York, and they think that biking here is just like biking when they were kids back in like east wherever they come from. You know what I'm saying? And here you will get hit by a car, you will get doored, something awful will happen to you. You'll get your head cracked open, and you might even die.
+
+[3:03] Wear a freaking helmet. That's see, I drive, so I know exactly how crazy people are in cars. Yeah. That's good point. Uh well, you know, I'm that kind of guy.
+
+[3:12] Like when I'm a pedestrian, I hate bikers in cars. When I drive a car, I hate pedestrians and but I just I hate whoever I'm not at the time. But I try to be polite on the road. Anywho. Okay.
+
+[3:23] Uh Michael Barfis writes in with two questions. One hilarious and the other one kind of normal. Right. I I have to say, I really shouldn't bring it up because you guys at home can't do anything about it, but this hammering over my head's really driving me banana. It's like being at the dentist.
+
+[3:36] This is what it's like for you at the dentist? Yeah. Nastasha, by the way, I hope that I mean, obviously, her dentist is not a listener to the show. No. But uh, you know, Nastasha's dentist is, I swear to God, a used car salesperson.
+
+[3:48] She will sell Nastasha any line of dental work. Anything, anything. Like, she's like, Oh, you know what? You need to have all your teeth ripped out and then the exact same ones put back in. You're gonna be under.
+
+[3:59] Trust me, I did that work. You owe me a lot of money. And Saz is like, hey, it's no problem. I got dental insurance. Doesn't matter that like only one tenth of all this crap that's happening is covered, and that you're paying for this lady's uh kids' college.
+
+[4:10] She just had a new baby. Oh, well, nothing she needs more than Nastasha's money. And Stash's like, but she's so nice. She's so nice. She has small hands.
+
+[4:19] She's Japanese. What does that have to do with anything? I like you don't want big meat hooks in your mouth. Okay, whatever gets the job done, Stas. You know, if someone's gonna take my teeth out and drill holes in me, I'm not worried about the thickness of their digits, if you know what I'm saying.
+
+[4:32] Anyway, uh Michael Barthes writes in. Um, first, I live in Ohio and have pretty hard well water drawn straight from limestone bedrock. I don't know its exact composition, but it's probably mostly calcium carbonate with enough iron to make it taste kind of bad until the iron oxidizes, precipitates out, and stains everything, at which point the water tastes fine. Iron in the water is a kind of a pain in the butt. How is your water in California?
+
+[4:54] Awful. Awful. Like sulfury awful or like hard awful? Like did it lather when you were in the shower or no? No.
+
+[5:01] No, no lather? And that's about as much information I want about that as possible. Okay, uh after reading your post on nictimalization, nixtimalization, by the way, is uh the process whereby you take uh calcium uh hydroxide uh and uh called cal, and you uh cook corn with it, and it breaks down the the outside the uh endosperm of the corn, as well as uh doing a bunch of awesome other things like making it taste awesome and making the hydrocolloids out of the endosperm that make masa such an amazing thing. Anyway, uh, and freeing up niacin, a whole bunch of great stuff. Anyway, uh after reading your post on nixamalization, I put two and two together and realized that it was not my excellent timing that made my broccoli so firm and green, but the hard water I was boiling it in.
+
+[5:39] Uh and the the reason why, for those of you that don't know, and this is going to come up later, is uh calcium uh cross-links with pectin. Uh and and when that happens, the pectin becomes much more uh stable towards uh being broken down at uh in high temperatures. So when the calcium cross-links with the pectin and forms the the you know the uh crossing pectin, then the like even boiling it for what would normally make a mushy product, right? Uh because pectin is the main thing causing the kind of crunchiness and the hardness of vegetables. If you stabilize the pectin, it keeps stuff crunchy longer, right?
+
+[6:13] Anyway, and uh the other interesting thing about it is that uh so if you're using calcium hydroxide, two things are working against each other, right? You're supposed to add a pinch of baking soda to water. If you're having problems with uh your vegetables turning um your vegetables turning uh what's the word I'm looking for? Brown, right? Because the chlorophyll is getting ruined.
+
+[6:30] Um so what happens is is uh that's accentuated by acidic things. So you add a pinch of baking soda to your water. Uh the water uh becomes slightly basic and that preserves the green, so you get bright green vegetables. The problem is that basic conditions also destabilize pectin, make it break down much faster. So the problem is you get mushy products, so mushy broccoli if you add baking soda to your water.
+
+[6:52] Uh if you use calcium hydroxide instead of baking soda, the calcium by crosslinking with the pectin uh cancels out the problem that you have with uh the basicity of the baking of of like normal basic things like baking soda because calcium hydroxide is basic, and therefore you could have green things that aren't mushy by cooking them with a pinch of calcium hydroxide in the water. Anywho, anywho. So uh the calcium in uh in Michael's water is causing his broccoli to not go crappy. Uh that was a long way of saying that. Just to explain what the hell we're talking about here.
+
+[7:22] Okay. Uh this made me wonder if I've effectively got less basic lime water on tap. Well, you have water high in calcium, anyway. Uh what sort of benefits for being prepared in or with hard water, and uh what other sorts of stuff benefits from being prepared in or with hard water, and what should I do about the iron in it? I know I'll definitely only make pickles with hard water in the future.
+
+[7:45] Uh okay. Well, I mean, we all know uh hard water, it depends on how hard your water is, right? So, I mean, the obvious thing about uh additional, and it also depends, I mean, in your specific case, your hardness is coming from calcium. So, one of the benefits you're gonna get from it is uh is um uh increased firmness in vegetables that are boiled in it, okay? Even though as you're boiling it, so the calcium is kind of precipitating out, and so you have those probably I'm guessing those nasty rings around the outside of uh of your pan.
+
+[8:14] I actually forgot to look up how to get rid of the iron in a normal way because I was focused mainly on the calcium. You have me with calcium, and then my my brain went on fritz, and I didn't look up the iron. But um the obvious problem, right? So, I mean you probably know what the problems are, but the obvious problem is things that you want to get really soft, things like beans, right? So uh beans have the problem that uh you know you're trying to get them soft, and if you add anything that contains calcium to the water or too much calcium to the water, the beans might never ever go soft.
+
+[8:44] And the same thing happens if you at if you accidentally add if you let's say you're making baked beans, and like me, you like uh a little bit of vinegar in your baked beans to have that acidity, and you make the mistake, as I only ever made once, of adding the acidity early in the cook process, and then you realize your beans never go hard. You ever have anyone try to make baked beans for you? You don't like baked beans, right? Because you got brain problems? Oh, you like them.
+
+[9:04] You ever have anyone give you one that was like hard? It's because they added the acidity early in the cook process, or they cooked with really hard water, or even worse, both. Uh so I mean that's obviously a detriment. But the other place where I see you have a really, really large advantage with hard, hard water, uh, and if it's basic, basic water, is in uh noodles uh and in some bread formulations. So uh making something more basic and increasing the uh calcium and other minerals in water uh tends to increase the uh increase the uh tenacity of gluten structures, right?
+
+[9:38] So you get firmer dough. Now, this is especially true when you're looking at noodles, specifically Chinese noodles. So if you if you do the research on consui, which is a mixture of I think potassium uh uh carbonate and sodium bicarbonate, or some mixture of those things, basic things, uh often with calcium, uh these are added to noodles to enhance the gluten structure of the noodles, and that which makes them more elastic and stretchy, and also in certain cases makes them kind of a bright yellow. So if you see those kind of they're called yellow alkaline noodles, and they're made by adding consui. However, the speculation is that this technique derived from uh trying to mimic uh the product that was made from people who had wells with exceedingly hard and alkaline water.
+
+[10:21] So you could see a significant benefit in uh certain types of noodles and also certain types of uh bread doughs. Now, if your water is too hard, obviously you can you know go too far over that edge and it's no longer an advantage anymore. But I would guess your your main points of uh diversion in terms of it of being lucky with your with your calcium water is uh things like vegetables, also preserving fruits and preserving tomatoes. I would suspect that if you use a canned tomato, if you have enough calcium in your water, you might not need to add as much calcium chloride or other form of calcium to the to the mix to get the um tomatoes to stay hard. And this is gonna dovetail nicely with another question we have later in the show.
+
+[11:06] Uh but you might also uh you know be able to uh do things like have berries stay together better if you're making preserves out of them, assuming that you have extra water added to it, which you typically wouldn't, but but there you have it anyway. In fact, uh well anyway, I'll do your second question and then I'll go to the other question based on on berries, which I was gonna handle handle later. What do you think? Is that good? Yeah.
+
+[11:28] I have to have I have to always I never know like whether I've been talking for one minute or or 15 minutes, so I have to look over at this is what I'm doing why I always ask Nastasha whether that's okay or not, is because I have no idea what I've just said. So I have to ask her whether it's okay. So what are you shopping for today? I'm not shopping. Okay.
+
+[11:45] Uh if anyone out there, which I doubt works for the Zappos Corporation. Oh my gosh, I've never bought cheese from that. This is what I want someone to confirm. I want someone to break whatever sort of customer confidentiality you have and just send us an email that says yes, we've received the orders. Yes, my name is not on file.
+
+[12:01] Payless. I told you. Ah, payless. Okay, Michael, second question. Second, how safe is it to use transglutaminase in first aid?
+
+[12:10] This is a hilarious one, right? So transglutaminase, I'll just finish the question first. I'm gonna try to not go tangential until I finish the question. It's it's my uh my uh 42-year old resolution to try to not go hyper tangential before finishing the question. Oh, 42.
+
+[12:25] Uh on the one hand, it seems like it could be good. Uh quickly closing cuts and preventing them from easily being pulled back open. On the other hand, it seems like it could be extremely bad, potentially sealing in anaerobic bacteria or else short circuiting the natural healing process and causing terrible or awesome scars. I guess it depends on uh you know your view of terrible or awesome. You know, there's people who make scars on purpose, like a form of you know, body uh art there.
+
+[12:52] I don't expect it to be uh replacement for stitches if they're needed, but ordinary wince and slap a bandit on it cuts heal well enough without professional attention. So can it be done safely? And if so, is it worth the effort? Thanks, I love the show. It'd been tearing through the archives.
+
+[13:06] Uh okay, so uh for those of you we haven't talked about it in a while, so I'll I'll mention what it is in case you don't know what it is. Transglutaminase is a an enzyme that cross-links uh proteins. Okay? So uh it it it literally takes uh two amino acids from two different protein chains and covalently bonds them together to form a kind of protein aggregate uh polymer, right? It's a covalent bond, it's not an ionic thing.
+
+[13:34] Once it's made, it can only be broken uh physically. Even cooking it, right, doesn't denature or what denatures the protein, but it doesn't break that bond. So um what uh you know what two things were joined by transglutaminase, let no one put asunder. You know what I'm saying? Anyway, so uh our bodies have transglutaminase in them.
+
+[13:53] This is a natural uh part of your body. In fact, blood clotting to go back to wound stuff, uh blood clotting it what happens is is there's an initial thing uh that you form uh thrombin, right? Uh it well how's it work? You have five you have fibers, right? Thrombinacs on it, it forms these aggregates of fibers.
+
+[14:12] Then those aggregates of fibers are glued together into big clots by transglutaminase in your uh in your blood system in your body in the presence of calcium. So going back to calcium again, transglutaminase in your body is dependent on calcium for uh proper activation. Okay? Now, microbial transglutaminase, which is meat glue, which is the stuff that we use to bond different pieces of meat together. One of the amazing things about it, other than the fact that it's not derived from an animal, is that it uh in fact it's kind of unusual, right?
+
+[14:43] To have something that's derived from uh a microbe that actually bonds things together instead of breaking them apart. I haven't thought about it, but most of the stuff that I get actually breaks stuff apart. Huh. Anyway, uh, and what? I said tangentials.
+
+[14:58] Oh, tangentials. Uh I thought you said something far more inappropriate. Uh anyway, so uh microbial transglutaminase can bond stuff together without calcium. So uh the theory is then can you use this thing to bond your skin together? And um well, the idea, I mean, uh, you're not gonna have a problem with anaerobic stuff.
+
+[15:15] Um, but the idea, uh I mean, people have asked me before, and it's it's hilarious, but also kind of like horrifying that you would take this powder uh for cooking and like kind of glue yourself together with it, because everyone always asks when we're teaching uh meat glue, like whether or not it will glue your skin together. And the joke we always make uh is that well, if you sand your forehead until it's bloody, and then sand your hand until it's bloody, and then bandage your your hand to your forehead uh and let it sit there without moving for four hours, then yes, you could probably bond it. But then you could always rip it off, you know, because the bond that you make with transglutaminase is usually only as strong as the bond between two adjacent pieces of muscle. Right? It doesn't bond it usually as strong as uh, you know, the whole muscle, unless it's in the presence of a lot of salt, etc.
+
+[15:59] Whatever. Uh so, and also in microbial transglutaminase the stuff that you buy, Activa, especially if you get the RM, there's milk protein in it, which you don't want to like have in your wound, all this other stuff. Although you can get one with straight gelatin. But uh, I mean, it makes a lot of sense. So I went and looked it up.
+
+[16:15] And there's a company that in uh I believe, you know, sometime in the in the early mid-2000s, called Life Bond, L-I-F-E-B-O-N D, um, is making some goop, some uh some transglutaminase gelatin goop. And they say that it's almost completely biomimetic, i.e., well, the word is self-evident, biomimetic, and it's an awesome word. Even Stas is sitting there going, biomimetic, biomemetic in her head. I can see her saying it. Uh so like uh that's I don't know what kind of robot voice it is, anyway.
+
+[16:45] Uh they're making this goop that you can put into your wounds and um and actually it speeds healing. One of the things they're looking at is in battlefield situations where you need to like stop big wounds quickly uh and put things together in a way that can stop like high pressure arterial bleeds, uh, they're they're working on it. So uh it's very interesting. You know, and I'll read you from uh from their patent. Most high pressure hemostatic devices currently on the market, and high pressure hemostatic devices mainly means can stop blood in a high pressure, like an arterial situation.
+
+[17:18] That's that's translated right down uh or sideways, uh, currently on the market are nominally uh nominally, if at all adhesive. And their point is that transglutaminase plus gelatin is adhesive to your tissue. Uh Nasash making a nasty face here. Good examples of such devices are quick clot ACS uh and hemecon Bandage. The two hemostatic devices currently supplied to members of the U.S.
+
+[17:40] Armed Forces. The mineral zeolite crystals and quick clot uh sponge cause adsorb um cause uh adsorption of the water molecules in the blood that's concentrated in the clotting clotting factors and accelerating blood clotting. So they're literally putting like an absorptive powder on you that just like pfft like strokes it up and causes quick clotting, hence the name quick clot. Uh the chitosan mixture that makes up heme con has a positive charge that attracts red blood red blood cells, which have a negative charge. The red blood cells are drawn into the dressing, forming a seal over the wound and stabilizing the wound surface.
+
+[18:10] So these guys at Life Bond uh have anticipated your question and are now making transglutaminase-based wound dressings, and we'll see how that goes in the future. But do not put Activa RM in your cut before you slap a band-aid on it, or if you do it, do not say that I recommended that you do so. Let's go to our first commercial break. And I've strived to make these wonderful things available to New Yorkers for 37 years, so it's a feta complet for us to support Heritage Radio Network. And I hope you will too, and I hope you'll keep tuning in.
+
+[19:16] For more information, please visit Fairway Market.com. Are we back? We're back. And welcome back. I never know because the Jack will always throw in like I'll sit there and I'll gear into it.
+
+[19:34] Welcome back! And then like it's like oh. Maybe I should bring it back every time that I'd say, and we're back. And then you can come in, you know? No, that's true.
+
+[19:45] Hey, I want to give a quick shout out to Ben Lambert, though, who just became a member mere seconds ago. Cooking issues listener. So thanks, Ben. Thanks. And you know what I was looking up?
+
+[19:54] Probably no relation. In fact, I'm sure no relation. Lamp l uh Lambert uh radiating bodies. No relation, I'm sure. You were just looking that up?
+
+[20:02] Well, yeah, in fact, I can talk about it a little bit now. Nice. Uh so um as those of you that listen to the show might be aware we're working on a new product uh that it's gonna have the name some form of sally something probably. And it forms as a little handheld salamander, right? And um and what it does is it diffuses and uh converts the uh flame from a torch into a into uh mostly IR uh you know infrared heat.
+
+[20:29] It makes it very, very even and the advantage of this unit is that it's on almost instantly because the screens that make up the unit uh have a very, very low thermal mass, so it it turns you know cherry red almost instantly, like a couple seconds, right, Stas? Anyway. Um but when I had the initial people testing it, uh they were having some sort they were having problems um using it because they weren't thinking about and um we're gonna do a video about this. Uh maybe I'll be even post it on the blog eventually. Uh we're shooting some tomorrow.
+
+[21:01] The problem with it is is that people are holding the unit as far away from the food as they would hold a normal salamander, right? And the fact of the matter is is that you have to hold it much closer than you would a normal salamander. And the reason go the reason for it, you know, is that most people aren't thinking about how heat from something like a salamander actually works. So for those of you that don't have a salamander or don't even know what the heck I'm talking about, a salamander is uh a form of a commercial uh broiler, right? And the way that most commercial salamanders work is they have a series of bricks that have a bunch of holes in them.
+
+[21:39] Gas comes out of the bricks and uh it through the little holes, ignites, and forms uh an infrared like an infrared uh kind of plane of heat uh right there uh where the bricks are. And the thing is very long, usually like on the order of three feet is typical for a salamander. And I'd say the bricks are maybe six and a half, seven inches across, okay? So you have a strip of bricks that's uh about three feet long and seven inches across. Um now um the difference in now, so take that, right?
+
+[22:10] And so a long time ago, back in the days when uh Michael Batterberry was still with us, and I was writing a lot for food arts that you know, for those of you that don't know who Michael Batterberry is, go and look them up right away. He and Arianne were like you know, huge influences on my life in terms of my uh career and a lot of other people who are in the food business, you know, they they've done a lot of good that they don't bother taking the credit for. Anyway, so back when I was writing for food arts, I had to write an article on what's called deck broilers. And uh deck broilers are things that actually most even restaurants don't have, but if you have a steakhouse or a large hotel, you're apt to have a deck broiler. And what a deck broiler is is imagine a bunch of salamanders like where the where the bricks are stacked next to each other to form instead of just a strip of these bricks, a square, okay?
+
+[22:53] And uh it always amazed me that uh even though each individual brick in a deck broiler has the same amount of energy that's leaving it per square centimeter, deck broilers are fantastically more powerful than salamanders in normal uh operations, and also very, very even. And that's why they're really good for things like steaks, right? Um why? The question is why. And the answer, and also one of the problems with salamanders is that salamanders have what is called a sweet spot, and it's a line that runs all the way um uh you know across the center of the long axis of the salamander.
+
+[23:29] And the issue is is that a deck broiler is acting pretty much like an infinite plane of heat. That's right. This is where we're going back to Lambert. I'm not gonna get into the nitty-gritty of it. But uh, in an infinite plane uh of radiating heat, right, of IR of IR radiation, right?
+
+[23:45] If you have an infinite plane or something that's a pro approximating it such that such that basically the food can't see that literally see the edge of the of the heater, then the amount of energy that the food is receiving from the heater is roughly independent of how far away it is. So everything heats evenly, and the amount of heating is just do is just uh uh a function of the output per square centimeter of the heater. Does this make any sense at all? Yes. Okay, good.
+
+[24:13] So uh deck broilers act like an infinite plane, and then anything within it is gonna get heated evenly, and it doesn't matter within a couple you know, centimeters how far away it is, right? And this goes back to you know, you my son Dax is obsessed with this archer named Byron Ferguson, who you know, Byron Ferguson, his motto is if I can see it, I can hit it. And Byron Ferguson can take an arrow, pull it off of his back, and he can shoot an aspirin out of the sky. Literally, his wife throws aspirin into the air, and Byron Ferguson pulls an arrow off of his back and shoots it uh like as it's leaving his wife's hand practically, and his wife is so used to this that she doesn't even flinch. Imagine, like, imagine what Jen would do if I was going to try to shoot an aspirin out of him.
+
+[24:52] She should rightfully run for the hills. You know what I mean? Like this is not some sort of William Burroughs situation with his wife with the apple on his head. Like this guy's real deal. So check him out, Byron Fergus.
+
+[25:01] Anyway, if I if I can see it, I can hit it. And the same thing goes true with uh heaters. If you can see it, you can hit it. So under a salamander, when a piece of meat is sitting there, it can see the heater and the heater can see the food all the way along the long line of it. So that section's working like an infinite plane, right?
+
+[25:19] But the sides on the edge that are relatively narrow, it doesn't act like it. And the more the further you get away from something, and the less it looks like an infinite uh plate, the more it acts like a point source. And a point source, the amount of energy you receive, uh like goes down as the square of the distance from it. So anyway, long story short, the small salamander only acts like an infinite plane when you're very, very close to the object, right? Uh and in so the long story short, you have to hold this object extremely close to the food when you're cooking it.
+
+[25:48] So that's why I was thinking about it. And that's a kind of a long digression based on uh Lambert. But you should also think about this when you're when you're cooking in general, and think about how large the heat source is compared to the food you're cooking. And the larger the heat source is compared to the food you're cooking, and the closer your uh food is to it, the more uh even you'll be if you can withstand that level of heating. Does that make any sense at all?
+
+[26:09] Yes. He's like, I don't care. I really just I really don't care. Right? Okay.
+
+[26:13] Uh so let's go to that second question on calcium. Uh we have uh this is a nice one. Uh Chris writes in, hey Dave, Nastasa, Jack Joe, and Indy Jesus. I apparent we have an awesome picture from uh Indie Jesus' Facebook, but we but apparently Jack says that he wouldn't enjoy being referred to as Indy Jesus. I I don't think so.
+
+[26:32] Even though it's with like honestly with all love. I I you know I don't know. I'll have to ask him. Like to tell him it's with love. It is with love.
+
+[26:41] And in this picture we have from Facebook, it's like Indy Cowboy Jesus. He said he doesn't even like being called a hippie, so I can't really imagine how Indy Jesus would affect him. You calling Jesus a hippie? Anyway. Yeah, no one no one in the no one in the studio wants to go there.
+
+[26:59] Okay. Uh I have a pectin related question. My goal is to firm up small fruits like blueberries so they won't rupture and bleed out in cakes, muffins, pancakes, etc. I know you've mentioned this technique in the past, but couldn't find it in the backlog and would love uh the appropriate ratio to use in the future. Um thanks so much for the great show.
+
+[27:15] Definitely uh highlight of the week and backlog is great for Sunday morning of kitchen cleaning. Without question, my food has made a jump in quality thanks to the radio show and blog. And I now regularly use enzymes, gums, and prehydrated starches in addition to my circulator regularly with delicious and consistent results. Chris, uh I like that. That's what I like to hear.
+
+[27:31] I like to hear that. Okay. So uh the enzyme in question is uh pectin methylesterase. Uh and it's the opposite of of you know kind of the SPL, which breaks things down. It uh cross links pectins in the presence of calcium.
+
+[27:45] Now, most fruits have um naturally occurring pectin methylesterase uh and will crosslink somewhat if you have calcium, especially in um in the presence of heat. When the cells start to break a little bit, it'll release some of the pectin methylesterase. And if there's calcium present, you'll uh increasingly crosslink uh your product. That's why just a little bit of calcium in canned tomatoes, uh, you they usually use calcium chloride, unfortunately, causes those canned tomatoes to be really stiff, and that's why those tanned tomatoes, when you use them in sauce, never fully break down, right? You've noticed that, right, Stas?
+
+[28:16] Yes. Yes. So um Novozymes, uh, who makes the um who makes the uh you know, pectanex ultra SPL that we use and everything, also makes something called Novo Shape. Uh and you can use it uh with calcium, and I forget what the calcium ratios is, but you can use it the same way you use um um um pectinex ultra spl in the sense you can use about a uh you know one or two grams per liter of liquid uh that you're treating with. I would add a couple percent of calcium to the water and then let it soak.
+
+[28:49] Uh and I've done that to raspberries, I've vacuum injected uh and then boiled them, and the raspberry stayed whole in boiling liquid. Now you want to make sure that uh you know that the liquid's roughly isotonic with the raspberries, so you gotta add some sugar, otherwise it'll just blast apart uh, you know, because of osmotic pressure. But um they I was astounded how well those suckers held together. Were you there for that, Testas? Remember that?
+
+[29:14] It's crazy, right? Uh and I wanted to do that with brandied cherries, but uh, you know, there's a problem with the cherry harvest, or there was a problem with people ordering cherries for me this and I can't taste them anyway, so my I wasn't really that juiced up because I, you know, I couldn't I can't taste cherries because I'm allergic to them. Anyway, uh so that would work. You might try, and I don't know whether or not uh Modernist Pantry ever started carrying uh Novo shape, but they could. Oh, the only thing that's uh you know between them and that is uh the investment in a 25 liter pail that they can then break up and uh we never had enough application to buy our own 25 liter pail.
+
+[29:46] We buy twenty-five liter pails of uh SPL all the time. Like we're we're actually basically an industrial user of SPL now. That's what I'm saying, Mono's pantry. Oh, yeah. Yeah, Chris Modern's pantry.
+
+[29:56] Uh he could probably buy a pail of it um if he wanted to. Uh, and then you just add calcium, add uh Novo shape, and let it soak, and you're good. So uh I would do that. I would also just try adding straight calcium and letting it soak for a while on the calcium, and then uh you can bring the heat up and see whether or not it um has preserved them or not. But anyway, that's what I would that's what I would do.
+
+[30:19] Yeah? Yeah. No? You know how they make the fake blueberries in the real life? I think I said this before, yeah.
+
+[30:24] Yeah, alginate. They actually what they do is they take blueberry juice and they make uh they in they uh put a uh sphere of blueberry juice inside of an alginate shell of blueberry juice, and that sucker uh lasts forever. It's not real, but it lasts forever, and that's in fact that was one of the like that was one of the original things well before anyone, like you know, Ferron was using alginate balls. Alginate balls were being used in industrial applications for things like flake fake blueberries, things like fake onion rings, uh things like that. Uh anyw, so uh there you have it.
+
+[30:57] Um is it good? Uh-huh. Yeah, she's like, I don't care. I really don't care. I just want the pizza.
+
+[31:03] I just want the pizza. Stas like, why do we do this show? Free pizza. You know how much easier it would be for me to just buy you a pizza every week? No?
+
+[31:11] Yeah. I mean, whatever, I can afford the pizza. I'll say. Okay. Pete writes in, dear Dave et al.
+
+[31:17] Over the years, my family and I have typically procured our hams from local country growers who let their pigs forage in the woods. I've often read that there's not been a case of trichonosis uh in the U.S. from pork since the 1950s, but given the source of meat, I've always cooked my country hams to an internal temperature of 137 degrees Fahrenheit. I know from talking to growers and hunters that forest-fed and feral pigs. That's a great word, feral pig.
+
+[31:41] Right? Yeah. Feral pig. Nastas actually that's like I'm surprised. She likes that word.
+
+[31:46] I could tell. I can tell by a look on her face. Uh fearal pig, do you know why? Do you know why people? Because she loves cats, and as like as soon as you say the word fearal, the word cat pops into her head, and she doesn't even think about the word pig.
+
+[31:58] The pig just leaves and it's a fearal cat, which is like inherent love. My favorite animal. Feral cats or just cats in general? Fear old cats. Nastasha goes to me the other day.
+
+[32:06] She goes, Can we get a cat at the lab? I'm like, we already you we already have you. You sit around and like, you know, bat things around and whatever, anyway. Attack your ankles. God, I hope not.
+
+[32:17] That would be that'll be an all-time low. Uh where were we? Feral pigs. Oh, yes. Uh okay.
+
+[32:23] I know from talking to growers and hunters that forest-fed and fural pigs will consume any carrion they come across. This is true. In fact, uh, I read an article in the 1800s in West Virginia where they imported a bunch of pigs to a particular area of West Virginia that was infested with snakes, and the snakes just I mean, uh, and the pigs just wiped the snakes out. Just wiped them out, ate every snake that was there. And uh reports of the hams made from those uh snake-fed pigs was that they were quite good.
+
+[32:50] Whoa. Yeah, yeah. You can go you can go look it up. I did I looked that up you know many, many years ago uh when I was researching country hams for the uh first uh museum of food uh pig versus snake. You wouldn't guess, huh?
+
+[33:01] Well, pigs are some harsh suckers, man. This is why, like, you know, like if you ever watch Robert Mitchram's last movie when he's like a boar hunter. I mean, like wild pigs are not animals that you trifle with. You know what I mean? Don't go messing with the wild pigs.
+
+[33:12] Anyway. Uh we'll consume any carrion they come across. Uh, years ago, I read a study that indicated salt curing and at least nine weeks of hanging was sufficient to store uh destroy any uh Triconella larvae. Your uh recent suggestion that one does not have to cook your country hams got me wondering about this again. Is this still the thinking?
+
+[33:28] Have there been any recent revelations about the resiliency of trichonella cysts? Love the show, Landon. P.S. I have been freezing my pork for Italian style curing of whole muscles to ensure that I end up with trichonella free meat. I would love to not have to do that.
+
+[33:41] Okay. Uh here's the deal. Uh I look go to you want to go to Aphis, which is the animal plant health inspection services uh section on uh pork. And by the way, for those of you that don't know what trichinosis is, uh these little worms that uh you can get from consuming um undercooked meats. Um, you know, pig used to be the big one you got from pig, but also bear, uh any th any kind of wild meat, right?
+
+[34:09] And you get them in, and then it's the disease is measured in number of worms per cubic centimeter muscle mass, and it causes huge havoc because it they they invade your muscles, and it's just it's a nightmare. And plus, it's just it's gross, right? Yeah. Does anything gross you out more than that? Is that one of the grosser ones for you?
+
+[34:25] Where your muscles are just invaded by these worms. Awesome, right? Anyway, uh, so uh that's the problem with pork, and so for a long time that's why they had uh you had you cook the hell out of your meat. Okay. Here is what uh we have to say.
+
+[34:38] Uh here's what the Animal and Plant Health Inspection Services has to say on their website about uh trichinella and pork. Um trichinosis has a long-standing association with pork products, not only in the US but around the world. The concept which many people have uh about the need to cook pork thoroughly is based on the risk of becoming infected with this parasite. This concern is well founded in history. At the beginning of the 20th century, conservative estimates showed a 2.5 infection uh percent infection rate in U.S.
+
+[35:05] pigs. Even more alarming were the postmortem surveys conducted in the 1930s. A National Institute of Health report published in nineteen forty-three found that sixteen point two per cent of the US population of pigs was infected. One out of every six. Uh, this type of information led us to considerable publicities about the danger of eating pork.
+
+[35:23] The historical problem of trick of uh uh trichinite infection in pigs is responsible for strict federal controls of methods used to prepare ready to eat pork products in the US and expensive carcass inspection requirements in Europe. These regulations are still in effect in uh uh the Code of Federal Regulations for Processed Products and then the directives of the European Union. Wait, wait actually, hold on a second. It didn't say out of every pigs, it says sixteen point two per cent of the US population of people had some form of trichinose uh trickinella in their in their system. That's gross.
+
+[35:51] Yes. It's gross. I don't even believe that. I don't believe that. I don't believe that.
+
+[35:56] Nine for man. Okay, okay. Despite the historical problems of uh trichonine and its association with the pork industry, major changes have occurred in the last fifty years. Human cases of uh instead of saying trichinosis, they write trichinellosos tri trichinellosis. Trick I'm just gonna call it trichinosis, crap on these guys.
+
+[36:14] Reported through the centers for disease control, declined from about five hundred a year in the nineteen forties to fewer than fifty a year over the last decade. Further, many of these cases result from non pork sources such as bear and other game meats. A major decline has also occurred in the prevalence of this parasite in pigs. While prevalence has declined considerably in the US pigs, the lowest prevalence rates in domestic pigs are found in c uh countries where meat inspection programs have been in place for many years, including the EU, notably Denmark and Netherlands. These countries consider themselves essentially free of uh trichinosis.
+
+[36:44] The dramatic declines in trichonine and pigs reflect changes in the industry. Historically, uh infection in pigs was associated with feeding of raw garbage. Major trends were uh major inroads were made into uh trichinosis infection with the advent of garbage cooking laws passed uh between nineteen fifty three and 1954 and the hog cholera eradication program of 1962. Of equal importance has been the movement to high levels of biosecurity and hygienes under which most pigs are now raised. Still, opportunities for exposure to pigs exist, and some precautions should be implemented.
+
+[37:14] Uh so anyway, so uh that's the thing on pigs and what it's dealing with. But your stuff uh does not uh adhere to this because it's from uh wild pigs. So for a long time they were considering getting uh rid of it. Now, uh the good news is is as you say, you can kill pigs at uh kill pigs, you can kill pigs. You can kill trichinosis by cooking meat uh for uh a mere 47 minutes at the core at only 52 degrees uh Celsius, or six minutes at 55.
+
+[37:41] Also, as you note, deep freezing uh causes the trichinosis um uh uh worms to be killed and the cyst to be killed, but you don't want to have to do that. Now, unfortunately, uh there is no single set of uh, you know, you do this salt, do that, that can guarantee that they will safely admit guarantees trichinosis. However, all you need to do for curing your own stuff to figure out whether it's safe to eat without cooking is go to the U.S. Department of Agriculture's Code of Federal Regulations. Search on this one, ready?
+
+[38:12] Title IX, Chapter 3, Paragraph 318.10. And that one, that paragraph, I read it this morning, but it's too complicated to go to, lists all the specific curing mechanisms that you can use to uh destroy uh trichinosis in pork without having to go through a freeze step or a cook step. And they all are combinations of salt levels per pound of meat, a specific contact time of uh salt on meat in days per, I think days per whatever, I forget what it is, and then holding in the drying room for a certain number of days with a certain amount of equalization to assure trichinosis death. So if you follow those rules precisely, or or greater, those rules are greater. In other words, that amount of salt or more, that amount of time drying or more, that amount of water loss or more, then you're guaranteed uh a safe product from a trichinosis standpoint.
+
+[39:09] But I if I were you, if you're dealing with feral hogs, don't fool around with this one. Make sure that you conform to uh the specifications that are laid out in Title IX, Chapter 3, uh subpart 3, 1810. But uh is my impression that you when you're doing country hand specifically, you do not need to uh freeze as long as you follow their rules. But please don't just take my word for it, read that chapter in its uh entirety. I want some wild pig meat.
+
+[39:37] You know, the only time I've ever had uh uh you know so interesting thing about pigs, and you say that they were uh eating, I think there's you said they were I can't go back and find it, but eating stuff that they eat off the forest. Only one time have I had a USDA slaughtered pig that was eating uh fallen nut meat. It's called mast, right? So when stuff falls off the trees, which happens in the fall, uh pigs eat eat it, right? And so if you happen to be in a place where you get a lot of nuts, like hickory nuts and things like that, the pigs take in a lot of um a lot of these kind of nut fats, and their uh fat composition after a number of weeks of eating this tends to conform more to uh these um these nut fat ratios, and the fat gets softer, right?
+
+[40:20] Which is bad actually for certain sausages where you want the back fat to be very hard, but amazing for things like ham. And the closest American ham that I've had to the ibirico fed, uh the the ibirico, the biota fed uh ibirico, which they feed off of uh you know chestnuts falling from the trees in the Dehesa in uh Spain. Uh and and so the the amazing thing about that isn't just that those guys in Spain are good at curing about curing their meats, is that the actual composition of the fats is altered by the by the chestnuts that they're eating, and it just has this amazing acorns rather. Chestnuts. What the heck's rolling my brain today?
+
+[40:55] I don't know. What the hell is wrong with me? 42 what? Years old. Oh yeah.
+
+[40:59] Did I say chestnuts? What the hell? I meant acorns. Hell's wrong with me. Actually, I need to have my head examined.
+
+[41:06] Anyway, uh, although chestnuts would be delicious. And chestnut fed hogs are also delicious. Uh but uh anyway, if they're eating nuts, uh they get this kind of soft and amazing uh fat. And I had one from Pennsylvania, uh Pennsylvania, Tennessee. What the hell's wrong with me?
+
+[41:20] Where the pigs have been feeding, they were Tamworth hogs, and they've been feeding on uh these hickory nuts that were falling off the trees, and it was from a fat composition standpoint, probably the most amazing um American country ham I've ever had. So I don't know, take that for what it is. I'm sure that your hams are delicious if you're making it that way. Pierre? Okay.
+
+[41:37] Uh Dalip Rao writes in. His uh his Twitter handle is at Leapers 500. There's 499 other leapers out there. What is a leaper? I don't know.
+
+[41:47] Do you know what a leaper is? I don't know. I don't know. Okay. Uh okay, he's going to Coachella, which is a three-day concert, and he's camping with a gas stove for three days and trying to find a uh trying to figure out food and drinks.
+
+[41:58] Here's what I would do. Uh so the issue is if you were to use normal ice cubes, right, you'd get a huge amount of if to preserve your food. So I'm assuming you have big coolers and you don't want to have to plug anything in. Get giant ice cubes. When I'm saying giant, I don't mean small.
+
+[42:14] I mean giant. I'm talking big. I'm saying like get a c a bunch of coolers and get ice cubes that are like a foot by a foot blocks. The larger the ice cube, the larger the mass, right, per surface area. And your melt rate is going to be determined in part by how good your igloo cooler is, but also by how much surface area is available for the uh melt water to occur.
+
+[42:35] If you have a giant block like that, it should have no problem lasting three days uh in an adequate cooler, and then you could put your food next to it, and then you could chip off pieces of it for making your drinks, right? Especially if you just practice a little bit because it'll be tempered because it'll be at zero the whole time. So you'll be able to like chip amazing pieces off of it. So you could do shaking drinks, but you could also make amazing stir drinks uh with it because your ice is because you're gonna have to buy this ice from someone, right? So you go you go to uh uh whoever is like your local ice sculpture person, you buy a 200 pound block or and you have them saw it into larger into small enough blocks that will fit into the coolers that you have, and then pack again, pack uh the you know, put it on a grate so that it's sitting off the bottom so it's not sitting its own water, so you can drain off the extra water when you need it, and then have the food sitting next to it.
+
+[43:21] By the way, there's also that that's the way that uh that's the way that in Japan the hardcore sushi chefs store their fish. They they buy big coolers, big fridges, they unplug them because they don't want the air circulating on the inside, and then they put giant blocks of ice in to keep their fish exactly where they want them. So you should be able to keep your food uh good. Unfortunately for you, we don't have my you know, you don't have my uh my torch attachment yet because that would be sick. That would be sick out there because you could you could steak cook that way.
+
+[43:47] It's a little bit of a pain in the butt to cook a steak from zero to zero to a hundred that way, but it's uh it's pretty damn good. Um but you say you have uh I think did you say he had a circulator beforehand? Uh you could pre-bag the meats, and as long as you can ensure that your ice stays good, you could do a pre-cook on a lot of your stuff, and then flash grill all of your stuff, not use that much charcoal if you're allowed to have charcoal. You're allowed to have you been to Colachella? I don't think so.
+
+[44:09] Is that where they had the two-pack Shakur? They had the they had the holographic two-pack. Yes, that was it. That was how how Holly Ram Tupac was there last year. Yeah.
+
+[44:19] So who are they gonna hologram this year? Huh, I don't know. I mean, it would be kind of poor form to do biggie, right? But well, I don't know. I mean, you know, it'd be a nice holograph hologram rather.
+
+[44:31] Okay. So yeah, but it says you have a gas stove, so you should be go. If you have a circulator, I would circ a bunch of stuff in bags, put it in bags so they don't get contaminated by the fact that they're all sitting together with your giant ice, and then just bring straight booze, do a lot of delicious stir drinks, and then occasionally some shaking drinks. Limes are fine sitting on their own, so you don't even need to refrigerate those suckers. Bring as much stuff as you can that doesn't need to be refrigerated and then go from there.
+
+[44:52] Your melt water is also good, so you can use your melt water for cooking things like pasta, because if Nastasha goes with you, she needs to have pasta. She thinks must. Must. Must. Right?
+
+[45:02] Yeah. Okay. Uh Michael Natkin. Uh what's it called? James Beard Award nominated Michael Natkin, friend of the show.
+
+[45:10] Right? Yeah. Yeah, yeah. And and uh, as everyone knows, Nastasha loves your book. Anyway, uh at cooking issues, have you ever written down your carbonation rig?
+
+[45:18] I need to build one for at Chef Steps. Uh no. So um have I ever written it down? I've described a couple times, but I've never written it down. Okay.
+
+[45:26] Mark Powers. I buy all of my carbonation stuff from an outfit called Mark Powers in uh Guntersville, Alabama. And uh I love those guys because they're the cheapest people anywhere. Like they're so cheap that it's like they're they they define cheap. So what you do is is you call those guys up, you order a 25 a 20 pound it, or if you don't want to order a 20 pound, if you want a smaller rig, a five-pound CO2 tank.
+
+[45:52] It will arrive empty, okay? Uh they ship the kind of nice aluminum ones. You need to get along with that a um what's called a uh the their high pressure regulator. Now I don't really like those regulators for commercial use. The ones that they sell, they sell tapright brand.
+
+[46:08] Uh and the tapright brand regulators that they sell tend to get broken very easily in service if people are rough with them or knock them about uh and then they start having problems. Not safety problems, but they start having problems. Uh so if you can afford a nicer regulator, you could go with like a Smith or something like that, or Victor or nicer regulator. The taprights work fine, and they are by far and away the cheapest ones you can get. I don't think that uh Mark Powers sells them, but you can buy cages for the tapright regulators, and the cages prevent uh you from damaging the the um the gauges and the regulator by banging it about.
+
+[46:43] I would definitely invest in those if you can get them from them. Then all you need are the hose barbs uh and the hose, and you go directly into um what's called a ball lock or universal uh either universal Pepsi or ball lock fittings, and they're different from Coke or pin lock fittings. And the ball lock fittings from Pepsi, you want the the uh the ones that are gray, right? They're either gray or black, and one's for uh product and one's for gas. I think the gray is gas, although I can never remember, but the this system uses the gray.
+
+[47:13] And uh, and they became kind of the de facto thing that home brewers have used when they're using the old five-gallon Cornelius kegs, which is how they used to make soda for brewing, and I used to do it back in the day. Everyone does it. So it's the de facto homebrew technology of these ball locks, and they're almost free. They're like $2 for a connection. So you buy uh you buy those, you buy the hose.
+
+[47:35] I usually use quarter or three eighths ID uh reinforced hose. I forget the name of the brand that they stock at at uh in uh those guys' stock, but it's like called like ho like hose master or something like that. Uh and they'll ship you all the stuff by far and away the cheapest possible way to do it. Then you go on any homebrew site and you get the liquid bread carbonator caps, uh, and then you're ready to rock and roll. You just need some soda bottles, and that's how we carbonate at the bar.
+
+[48:03] At home, I have an actual McCann carbonator, which you can also get at pretty good rates from uh those guys, and I use I use an addition to what's called a primary regulator, which which takes the tank pressure on the CO2, which is like you know, upwards of 800 pounds or whatever, depends on the temperature, uh, and converts it to first a high pressure, which I take off at usually about a hundred psi, and then I go into a secondary regulator, which I take it off at cocktail carbonation pressure, which is generally about 40 to 42 psi. Advantage here is I can take the high pressure from my hundred pounder, I can drop it into a commercial carbonator. And the reason you need to run those at a hundred uh psi is because those things are carbonating water at room temperature, so you need a much higher gas pressure, but they're awesome. And then I have a water filter so that the water goes in, gets injected in under high pressure, carbonated water, it goes through two circuits of a cold plate, not one, two circuits of a cold plate to chill it down. The only problem with my rig at home is that uh I wasn't able to put an ice maker underneath my counter.
+
+[49:02] So my what instead of uh having an automatic ice maker, I have an eight-year old in the house named Dax, and he takes the ice out of my freezer and daily dumps it into the ice bucket to keep the seltzer cold. Back at the lab at 54 uh in Chinatown, we we have an ice maker that dumps directly on the cold plate, and so there we have our ability to carbonate cocktails and sodas and our ability to have seltzer on tap. Uh a day without seltzer on tap is a day without sunshine. Right? And I think that's it for today, right?
+
+[49:30] Yeah. Cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio.
+
+[50:00] You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by S. Wallace Edwards and Sons, third generation Cure Masters producing the country's best dry cured and aged hams, bacon, and sausage. For more information, visit SurreyFarms.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more.
+
+[0:31] Cooking issues! Cooking issues! Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cookie Issues coming here live! What every Tuesday is the second time I've done that to you, sorry.
+
+[1:11] No problem. From Roberta's Pizzeria in Ba-Ba-Ba-Ba Bushwick, Brooklyn! We are not joined with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. She is calling Oh, but we are. Well, no, but not live, not in the studio.
+
+[1:23] She has called in too. 718497218. That's uh 7184972128. And you can too, with all of your cooking related questions. So, Nastasha, uh Jack and Joe are here in the uh in the engineering booth as always.
+
+[1:35] Hey, hey gentlemen. Hello. So uh Nastasha has lost all credibility with uh the cooking issues in the Heritage Radio uh team because we've heard her talk a big game about how much she hates uh springtime weather. No, no. Springtice we're gonna be hello.
+
+[1:49] Oh, whoa, whoa, whoa. Well. Hates the springtime weather, hates springtime people, hates people when they like the springtime weather. And where are you right now, Nastasha? I'm at the beach, but I'm so happy that I'm not in New York because I don't have to see everybody in their flip flops and the hipsters on their bikes and all that stuff.
+
+[2:07] You're at the beach seeing all that. What the hell's the difference? No, there's no hipsters here. Zero hipsters. So uh are you so she is in uh Rhode Island, and are you familiar with the actual full name of Rhode Island, Nastasha?
+
+[2:20] No. Uh well it is the well, it's the smallest state in in our union. Uh however, it has the longest official name. It is the state of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations. Were you aware of that?
+
+[2:34] Whoa, no, I wasn't. Yeah, it's like it's like it wasn't enough just to be the smallest. They also had to like tag the biggest name. And then they shafted they shafted Delaware. Delaware's like almost.
+
+[2:43] Well, almost the smallest, but we got no sales tax. I think that's kind of what Delaware said, right? Uh because they couldn't change their name to like Delaware of Delaware and the Delaware Delaware plantation, because that would just be copying. Right? Right, yes.
+
+[2:57] So uh is it uh I assume it's nice over there, although you know I would hate it. Yeah, you would hate it. I'm not on it. I'm I'm away from the sand. So yes.
+
+[3:06] Uh for those of you out there um big I like the idea of a beach. I love the beach in the wintertime, but the sun is my mortal enemy. Anyway, uh, okay, we got some questions in from Ryan Santos regarding centrifuge. Hey, Dave and Nastasha, uh customer who recently retired from medical equipment sales, gifted us with an unused centrifuge he had in his storage. It's small and runs fine, but is missing the containers for the inside.
+
+[3:28] Though some research uh through some research, the maximum uh this machine can take is four by fifty milliliter conical tubes. And as you're probably aware, those four small tubes and adapter are not cheap. Four to five hundred dollars in total. Obviously, with the quantity limit, we won't be able to use uh, you know, the qu the amount they can spin it in at one time. Uh we won't be able to use it for any real practical production use because four times fifty milliliters, as you guys can uh do in your head, maybe is two hundred mils, which is a small amount.
+
+[3:56] Um is there any small specialty use that would warrant spending this kind of cash at that quantity? Uh will it hardly yield anything, even just for fun personal use? Well, four to five hundred dollars is a lot to spend on uh the tubes for a 200 um mil machine. Now, if uh I didn't get a chance, it's a thermoscientific IEC centrist CL2. I didn't get a chance to look at the specific specs on that machine.
+
+[4:23] Uh, but let's just say for the sake of uh for sake of argument that it can do, you know, three to four thousand G's uh and it has uh it doesn't have the word like an R anywhere in it. Usually refrigerated center if you just have like a letter R in it somewhere, so it doesn't have a fridge. So you're gonna be spending $500 to be doing 200 mils. Now a 50 mil tube is a lot for th for 250 bucks or 200 bucks or whatever, you can go on Amazon.com and buy one that does uh that does a hundred mils at a time, half that for like half the price. But those small tubes that it that it uses, the small one, what's the one that we use, Stas?
+
+[4:55] What's the name of it again? You have one too. Do you remember? Oh, uh yeah. Uh I'll have to look it up.
+
+[5:00] It's like champion something, right? It's like champion something. Anyway, look it up. Um, that one's only a couple hundred bucks uh and it's new and you can almost like get rid of it when it's done. 200 mils is not going to be enough for large production runs.
+
+[5:14] I would see if you can get it cheaper. If you actually have the the uh metal tubes and you're just looking for the bottles, then you know you can get away with cheaper not using it all. But I personally would be hesitant to invest $500 uh in something that can do 200 mils if you have the space to get a larger size one because you know for a thousand dollars you can get a really good condition uh three-liter unit, uh you know, like a thousand to twelve hundred dollars. So I you know I would be hesitant, but on the other hand, if all you have is five hundred dollars and you want to get into centrifuges, is the kind of thing where you know, if you don't have a centrifuge yet and you want to take the plunge, then you know anything you can do to get you into the centrifuge business is going to uh eventually be good for you because I've never had someone who's gotten a centerfuge. It's like there's a couple things like that.
+
+[6:00] It's like the vita prep, it's like an immersion circulator. No one's ever like, damn, I didn't use that. That sucked. You know what I mean? It doesn't happen.
+
+[6:07] There are other pieces of equipment where I can see a little buyer's remorse when you're when you're done with it. But if you're buying a centrifuge for commercial use in a restaurant or at a bar, uh it will pay for itself as so long as you um use it right and and you know uh use it for menu items where it's gonna save you big money on yield on your expensive items. Uh it's gonna make money back. So if it takes four hundred dollars to get you into the into the centrifuge uh thing so that you can then eventually go buy your three-liter, then I think in the end you win. What do you think, Stuz?
+
+[6:42] Yeah, I think that's good. And it is called the champion E33 bench top centrifuge on Amazon. We gotta get uh we gotta get uh Buju uh Buju Banton to rep that singing like uh champion, walk like a champion for that centrifuge. You think we can put those two guys together? They're down in Georgia or Florida somewhere, and I think when he's in the U.S., he's down there somewhere.
+
+[7:00] Well, but I'm saying I think that's where he got arrested down there, so maybe they can arrange something. Does anyone know is Bootchu Banton still in jail? Were those cocaine charges trumped up? Does anyone know? Does anyone even know who I'm talking about?
+
+[7:11] I'm gonna Google it. Alright, very good. Uh okay, so there you have it. Now, uh folk, by the way, for those of you uh out there, uh, we decided for the torch to go with the name Sears All because uh Nastasha, does it sear some things? No.
+
+[7:28] Most things? No. So if you have anything, choose anything. If you have that, will it sear that? Uh yes.
+
+[7:35] So it's pretty much a Sears All. Yes. Sears all. Yeah. All right.
+
+[7:40] That's the name. Yeah, not Searsum. That would be a terrible name. Searsum would be like the worst name in the world. But Sears All, that's a strong name.
+
+[7:46] However, uh uh Nastasha still has a soft spot for uh excuse me for uh all searing eyes, so she says it under her breath all the time. Yes. She just walks around mumbling it. She you know, i in uh in you know 30 years, she's gonna be that she's gonna be that lady wandering around the Lower East Side mumbling or Hell's Kitchen mumbling Oh Searing, I'll Searing Eye, I'll Searing Eye. That's gonna be her.
+
+[8:07] And I still refer to it as the as the Sally Sears All because I like the word Sally, but you know, there you have it. So uh that's the name. Uh and uh we shot some videos, so look for some video up on the blog soon showing uh techniques on on how to use it and kind of what it's good for. Uh now, Ken Ingber, longtime listener, uh supporter of MoFed, uh I don't know if he's a supporter of the radio uh network or not. I don't know.
+
+[8:31] But a supporter of the Museum of Food and Drink and a long time uh listener. Writes in and is excited about the Sears All, but has these questions. One, what does this product do that an inexpensive, widely available and time tested electric paint stripper will not do? Uh if uh if a lower temperature is key, is it possible that a home cook might be better off with the lower temp on a paint gun? I have used uh the paint gun, and um I think it's it's uh it's eight there's a couple things I don't like about it.
+
+[8:59] One, they're actually not cheap. Like paint stripping guns are like, you know, uh you'd think that they're like 20 bucks, they're not. They're like 80 bucks or or more. And so they're actually uh we we mean they're more than what we hope to sell this unit for. We don't know what we're gonna sell it for because a lot depends on uh how much it costs for insurance and shipping and boxing and all that other stuff.
+
+[9:21] But we're hoping to have it be uh price competitive with those guns. Uh secondly, those suckers uh require a cord, which I detest having a cord running around. They don't heat up as quickly as you'd like. And it's uh kind of hard to judge. I've used them before.
+
+[9:34] They just don't do the same thing. It's just not the same thing. They're just not the same, uh, having having used those things. Now I like those hot air guns for uh for other things. For heat shrink tubing, man, those things cannot be beat.
+
+[9:45] I used to have one. Someone stole it. Have you ever noticed that happens with me? I'm like, I lend something to people, stas, and then they just steal it from me. Yeah.
+
+[9:53] Equipment, techniques. I'm kidding. So the latter makes me the most angry. Yeah, I'm just kidding. I'm just messing around with you.
+
+[10:01] That's not uh you're not kidding. You're not kidding. Uh whole whole in jest half in earnest there. Anyway, okay. Uh two.
+
+[10:09] This is uh Ken asking more questions. Would I get the same effect if I held an $8 replacement camping light gas mantle with tongs in front of a torch? I mean, leave aside the bonus thorium on my chicken skin. Well, uh, for those of you that don't know, uh they what they do is they take a uh, I think it's I don't know what the fiber is, but it's a fiber net uh it's a fiber that they uh weave into cloth. This is how they make those really bright uh gas lanterns for camping.
+
+[10:32] They take a uh a cloth, they put some like a very high temp refractory fiber in it, and they dope it with thorium, which is uh, you know, a substance. And then uh when they when they light fire to it, the fabric burns away and the mantle becomes exceedingly fragile, and then the whole sucker incondes like a weasel when you when you light it on fire. And that's how those mantle-based gas lamps work. Now, trick with that is besides the awesome thorium, as you point out, mantle's quite small and exceedingly fragile. Uh, and also like you know, they're they're not uh yeah, it's uh excuse me, wouldn't work the same way.
+
+[11:04] The uh I bike today, which is why you hear the incredible hacking and coughing every once in a while, and I inhale some more of that cement. You know that cement place does? Yeah. It's like you make it all the way here and you're fine, and then like a block from Robert's you inhale like a lung full of cement dust, and then you're hacking and wheezing for the rest of the day. Um anyway, so uh uh I don't think it would work for for that reason.
+
+[11:22] Secondly, uh when you have tongs and you're shooting at something, uh, you know, you tend to lose a lot of heat to backspray, which is why we have the cone. The real trick of the whole uh device here is uh an incredibly low thermal mass such that the sucker heats up very, very quickly, but doing that with a material that maintains its structural integrity and strength at the elevated temperatures that we're talking about. And they're quite hot. The inner screen, the outer screen probably only gets up to like oh, I don't know, like uh like 1300 Fahrenheit or something like that. Uh but the inner screen probably gets up closer to like 1700 Fahrenheit or something like in that range.
+
+[11:57] Uh so it's right at the upper level of even what the metals we're using can do. And in fact, we're still playing with the alloys there, so uh those mantles are extremely fragile. This thing needs to be more kind of bulletproof for kitchen uh use. Yes, does number three. Are you doing anything about stability?
+
+[12:14] A hardware store propane canister is comfortable to hold and has a large capacity, but it's inherently unstable. Don't I know it? Which is why we have a patent pending on a clamp that not only holds uh the propane canister when you're using uh the Searsol, but also holds it uh when you're using a regular torch, which I think is inherently dangerous in any effect, uh in any way. Anyway, okay. Uh hardware store propane canister is uh uh comfortable to hold large capacity, but inherently unstable with a small base and a high center of gravity.
+
+[12:43] The heat of the usual burn somatic nozzle is dangerous, but I suspect that the ignition level temperature dissipates pretty quickly. Adding this uh salamander, the sears all to the top makes the total package tippier and perhaps retains a dangerous temperature level. Uh that is a serious risk in a busy commercial kitchen and a nightmare for consumer use. Uh well, I'll just finish the whole thing and then I'll go into it. But this is like one of the main things that we're addressing.
+
+[13:03] So, I mean, it's good that someone asks and I can talk about here. Okay. So, as to the last point on the danger. I'm of two minds when it comes to Dave's tinkering. The Heath Kit customer, by the way, for those of you that, you know, I don't know, if we have young listeners out there, Heathkit was a company back in the day uh that became well known after World War II for uh supplying uh parts that you could build things like, or kits you could buy things like oscilloscopes.
+
+[13:25] When I was a kid, they sold a robot. They have like, you know, anyway, so like amateur electronics, like what you know, what all the Arduino kids are doing now, like used to be Heath Kit, but you know, anyway, whatever. Okay, uh the Heath Kit customer is amused by what Dave uh by Dave's hacking of say an electric pressure cooker. Uh what could go wrong uh in joking parents? But the lawyer in me is more than a little apprehensive, especially when you post instructions on the back to that's back on the pressure cooker.
+
+[13:49] Although, to be fair to me, I said do not do it. Remember that, Stas? Yeah, that was the first sentence you wrote in that story. I was like, do not do this. It like, you know, you know, do not do this.
+
+[13:59] Uh by the way, that pressure cooker still runs well. I've not had a problem uh with it. Uh so again, don't modify your pressure cooker to get to the actual 15 PSI that God wants it to be at. Uh, even though I highly recommend only cooking with 15 PI si pressure cookers, and it's theoretically possible to take the Queas Nart electric pressure cooker and make it do 15 PSI. I I have to urge you to not actually modify it according to the instructions I post on the blog, right, Sas?
+
+[14:25] Right. Right. Um I have two things. So Bouju Bantan is in jail until 2000 or yeah, 2019. And uh also you have a caller.
+
+[14:37] Oh. Uh all right. Well, let me just finish this question and then I'll take the caller and then I'll answer the question. Okay, great. Poor Booju.
+
+[14:44] Uh what was what was it? Was it cocaine? Yeah, it was cocaine. Yeah. In Florida?
+
+[14:49] I believe so. All right. Uh okay. Um Okay. But the lawyer in me is more than a little apprehensive, especially when you post instructions.
+
+[14:57] The Sears all will probably be considered a consumer product and the manufacturer and seller assume some serious liability, or at least the likelihood of consumer injury lawsuits win or lose. Good luck, and I expect to invest, but just in time, as BAM's Nomi Ku immersion circulator seems to have overcome some design to manufacturing issues and is on the verge of production now, delayed from last December. Uh as I write verge, listen carefully and you will hear the derisive laughter I get from my wife and friends. Wow, is that a slap down on on uh weepop? That is a slap down.
+
+[15:22] On the weepop. Hey, you know, I'm a big fan of the weepop. We pop's chilling in uh in uh where is he in Thailand now? Uh anyway, so I'll get back. I'll answer that question on safety and the Sears all after this caller, caller you're on the air.
+
+[15:35] Uh yeah, Dave. Uh two or three unrelated questions here. Cool. First one on pickling. The reference everything I read about it.
+
+[15:44] I gotta change room so you're not gonna be able to hear me over the cue. Um everything I read on Pickling says that if you hit four point nine on the pH, that that's sort of an intrinsically safe pickle. Okay, you mean regardless of salt content or anything? Well, that's or at least you can if you get to 4.9, you can go with a reasonable salt content. Right, okay.
+
+[16:08] Um I mean, clearly if you put enough salt in it, anything's sets. Oh yeah. Um but uh does anybody make a test strip for that? Oh, for that ex for that explicit number? Yes.
+
+[16:20] Jeez, you know, that's a that's a a good question. Uh you'd think that they would. Uh I mean, but the thing is with the test strips pH meters are really not that uh they're not that expensive anymore. I think you can get one now, like I think you know, you know, are you familiar with XTech? Uh well, I mean, I'm very familiar with Fluke.
+
+[16:41] XTEC is sort of the lower line company. Um, so like is there a you're telling me that um fluke's pH meter or somebody's like that is no longer the price of a decent used car? No, well, no, fluke is. Okay, like that's the thing. Like, so you're gonna pay for you're gonna pay for quality.
+
+[16:58] You know what I mean? So if you're gonna use it, if if you were gonna use something like I know more about multimeters than I know about uh uh pH uh test, you know, pH testers, right? But if if I'm if I'm an engineer and I'm gonna go out on the job site and I know things are gonna get dropped and my buddy who doesn't know how to do anything from a hot rock is gonna take it and is gonna stick the probes on something weird, I'm gonna go with the fluke. Right? Now, if I'm just at home, for those of you that don't know what we're talking about, fluke is a well known and trusted brand of test equipment.
+
+[17:27] Uh uh, you know, and they have a characteristic look, and you know a fluke when you look at it across the room, right? Okay, so we're on the same page. Uh now, I used to be the kind of guy that uh would only ever, only ever buy uh quality equipment because I knew that if I didn't buy quality equipment, uh it was going to come back to bite me somehow. That's at some point I would assume that I own something that worked and I would need it right then and it wouldn't work and I'd be let down and it would be worse than having nothing at all. That's just my general experience.
+
+[17:58] However, as I age, uh I realize that sometimes it's okay if you have one application, you know it'll work for it, and you know you can be ginger with it, you're not gonna take it out on a job site, and it gets relatively good reviews, then you can go ahead and get the cheaper one. And so with something like a pH meter, uh, I think you could probably get away with something from XTEC at like less than less than half of uh what you would pay for, you know, the brand you trust. Is that we mean I don't know whether you can believe I don't know whether you can go that same route or not, or like whether it's not in you to buy a piece of equipment that you don't trust. But it at any rate, X Tech is generally adequate for the the once a month I'm going to do this. Yeah, right.
+
+[18:38] And and uh and I I think you know, I I've owned a couple of their products, and I I I try to remember if I ever had a problem with one, or whether I've ever heard that they were unresponsive if the stuff breaks. The problem with pH meters in general, if you've never had one, is that you you need to keep the what goes wrong with them is that the especially the inexpensive ones you use. I don't have the glass tip ones, which is you know the kind that like a lot of people have. I have the ones with the little two like the metal thick thing, and it's and it's uh and shield at the bottom. It actually does a couple different things.
+
+[19:05] It also do TDS uh and uh you know a couple other measurements on it. You have to keep the cap wet at all times. If the if the probe dries out, the probe's shot, and then you have to buy another replacement tip for it. So that's the one caveat. You need to buy the probe and you need to buy uh the buffer solutions.
+
+[19:22] And if you calibrate it right, uh, you know, it's it's a good investment, and you just gotta make sure that you there's a little sponge inside the cap, and you gotta make sure that sponge stays wet so that the probe doesn't dry out and get and get ruined. And I, you know, I don't know of any reasonably priced one where that's not the case, but I've had one for several years and it's it's still working for me. So, you know, take uh again, I wouldn't do it if I was doing it professionally, but it's served me okay. All right, and then the the the specific thing that led me to this question. I'm I make this Vietnamese hot sauce basically.
+
+[19:55] It's one third fish sauce, one third lime juice, one third sugar, and then I just uh mandolin some form of hot pepper in there until there's no more room left. Right. And if you leave it in the fridge for a week or two, it seems to pickle beautifully. Other than buying a pH meter, is there any way to like be relatively sure that's not going to kill somebody? Um Yeah, so it's like one one third lime, you said, and one third.
+
+[20:21] One third lime, one third sugar, one-third fish sauce. The fish sauce is 1,500 milligrams of sodium per tablespoon. Yeah, well, you know that you know the fish sauce isn't gonna go anywhere. Uh lime juice is not gonna support too much growth. Sugar is gonna be reducing the water activity.
+
+[20:40] So the real question is is what's the weight ratio of the product to the um to the pickle. Now, you know, uh I don't know whether the salt level there is sufficient to inhibit anything but lactic acid. Does it get a lactic taste after a while? Are you getting some actual fermentation? Yes, yes.
+
+[20:59] And and like you can you can see the peppers, you know, the peppers go from bright green, it's like they absorb the fish sauce and just get a very subtle different flavor to them. Right, but then it it does it does actually ferment out and you get lactic acid bacteria in there? I think so. And you're f probably fine. I mean like you're you're just jumpstart.
+
+[21:18] You know, by lowering the pH initially, you're then selecting for more for lactic acid bacteria to grow rather than other nasty stuff. So, you know, I think you're I mean, I look again, like I would get the pH meter and test it, but I I wouldn't feel too nervous about it. I'm not gonna I'm not gonna come out and say that's a safe thing 'cause I haven't run the numbers or looked at the system or gone and checked any data on the on the web. But uh I mean I feel I would feel comfortable serving it to my family is put that way. Okay, so that's fair enough.
+
+[21:46] Uh a completely separate question. You were talking the other day about pizza steels. Oh yeah, yeah. You know, I've never used one. Now Chris Young was talking to me about it and they have someone in Massachusetts making it.
+
+[21:59] Uh and I I I'm really interested in buying one, but if I do, I'd like to use it for a few things besides pizza. Sure. Is it thick enough not to warp if it's heated unevenly, or is it um you want to you want to use it on the range? But like I can get my grill up to ridiculous temperatures. Right.
+
+[22:20] If I turn the rotisserie burner on too. So the tissue burner's radiating down from above at the same time the the grills going full up from below and I mean it gets hot in there, like seven hundred and something degrees hot. Right, right. Uh if I can um but I'm I'm worried if I do I'm afraid to do it to a ceramic pizza stone that way, 'cause I know the dang thing will crack. Oh, you you've tried it?
+
+[22:43] No, but I mean just ceramic they're typically not like to be heated unevenly. Yeah, no, I mean that's true. It's a it's a fi it' and it's a fifty fifty dollar experiment I've refrained from doing. Right, right. So I mean now clearly the steel's not going to crack.
+
+[22:55] Do you how do you have any feel for how likely it would be to take a permanent warp? Uh okay. Uh I haven't thought about it. Uh however, I'll I'll say this. Uh you're gonna buy it from the guy in Massachusetts making it with the modernist cuisine label on it?
+
+[23:10] Yes, but th uh that that is my intention costs about 75 bucks. Okay. So uh I don't remember exactly how thick it is, but remember the whole the whole McGill on that sucker is that it's thick enough to store up enough uh thermal energy to put a wallop into your crust, right? Right. So you're you're gonna have some inherent stiffness from just the fact that it's a thicker material.
+
+[23:32] But the other the the other good news is is you're not heating it up to like a cherry red. You're not like putting on uh like an oxyacety flame on it and uh melting it out. It's probably gonna take quite a bit of energy to warp that out as opposed to like you know, a black steel pan, which is incredibly easy to warp on a range, right? Yeah, yeah, yeah. Been there done that.
+
+[23:50] Yeah, and you're probably gonna have a more widespread out heat pattern than you would uh on a range if you're doing it on a grill. But the good news is this. I don't know that guy in Massachusetts and never met him, never spoken to him. However, I have spoken to Chris Young about him when they were starting that project because he was here on the radio show I think a year or so ago talking about it. And the fellow that's doing it is an engineer.
+
+[24:13] And uh my uh, you know, uh and I I'm biased because I got a family full of engineers, but um my my feeling is uh that uh it's probably something that he's tested. Because uh, you know, engineers are like that. You know what I mean? So it's worth calling them and asking them the questions. I would call I would call him personally and ask a question.
+
+[24:33] My i my impression is he's not like some giant conglomerate, he's a human being. But I mean he ha he has a real company that does other stuff, like a bigger company. I believe he's a metal fabricator or something like that, or has some sort of large shop. But the guy who spearheaded that at that company might be the owner or not, is an actual human being. And it works fantastic, and I love it.
+
+[25:03] But basic food safety question. If it's been in 180 degrees, you know, a reasonable size bag been in 180 degrees Fahrenheit for, you know, eight, ten hours. Is it essentially, I mean, canned? I mean, no need to worry about the big ice water bath and yeah, no, it is not uh it is not canned. And yes and no.
+
+[25:26] Here's the deal. So uh the original old school com fee recipes, right, have uh uh a fairly extensive uh salting regimen prior to the comfi process. They also have uh, you know, a classic uh bunch of uh herbs that gets packed into it. Those herbs, time and whatnot, are you know are bacteriostatic uh have some bacteriostatic effect. And um salt is there uh to provide um to provide you know some bacterial protection.
+
+[26:03] So now I don't know of any cases of someone getting what you're worried about is spore forming bacteria here. You're gonna kill all the vegetative stuff, but you're not gonna wipe out the spores. So the question is is the water, and and here's the other problem. When you're when you're doing a traditional comfi, you have first the salt, that gets rid of some moisture and increases the salt level. That's inhibiting bacteria.
+
+[26:23] You have the uh putting of the of the herbs on, that's somewhat inhibiting bacteria, although it's hard to quantify. You then have uh the traditional comfy in an open uh roaster, let's say, or on a pot in a stove, and that sucker is uh is also getting rid of moisture because moisture is evaporating off and can get out. When you're doing it in the bag, most modern confie recipes don't have as much salt, so I can't guarantee there's bacteriostatic. Uh, you're not necessarily using the same herb profile, so can't guarantee bacteriostatic there. And also, you're not evaporating the moisture out of the bag.
+
+[26:57] The moisture stays in the bag, which is why you get a little gelee in the bottom of a bag confie item. Now, I like all that in terms of taste, but I wouldn't trust it for uh I wouldn't trust it for room temperature and for not having uh spores in it. Okay. So I would, you know, if you want to do it that way, you know, you got to get a retort bag, and you can buy retort bags, and then just you know, you could pressure you could pressure of the retort bag, and then those suckers are sterile, they'd be shelf stable at that point. Okay, so all right, so I I need to be caught more caucus on this than on than on the pickle question.
+
+[27:29] I would, yeah. Okay, fair enough. Um, that was my question. Thank you very much. Thank you.
+
+[27:34] Have a good one. You too. All right, Jack, let's go to our first commercial break. I'll come back with some safety issues on the Sears All Cooking Issue. Today's program has been brought to you by S.
+
+[28:31] Wallace Edwards and Sons. Edwards Suriano hams are aged to perfection for no less than 400 days and hickory smoked to achieve a deep mahogany color. The Edwards name is well known for its world-class aged and cured meats. Their exclusive curing and aging recipe produces a unique flavor profile that enhances the quality characteristics of Berkshire pork. Optimum amounts of pure white fat marbling contribute to a flavor that's a delicate, perfect balance between sweet and salty.
+
+[29:01] For more information, visit www.surrifarms.com. Did you know Heritage Radio Network.org is a member supported nonprofit organization. If you like what you're listening to, go to our website and click that donate button. Become a member and get special discounts, invites, VIP treatment, t-shirts, and more. Support us in our mission to bring you the freshest food content in the nation.
+
+[29:26] Glad to see Sam Edwards is supporting the show. You know I like the S. Wallace Edwards ham. Joe, you like that stuff. I do enjoy the Suriano ham.
+
+[29:36] And Dave, you have another caller. I do? Yep. Suriano, S. Wallace Edwards.
+
+[29:40] Great product. I don't like the name. Caller, you're on the air. Hey, Dave, it's Aaron Warren calling from uh Edmonton, Alberta. Just had a question for you about uh solar streams.
+
+[29:52] About what? About soda streams? Oh, cool, alright. Okay, so I I purchased uh just a cheap I'll use soda stream online and uh did some research previous to it and noticed that there's a company that uh basically is able to uh provide you with a clip so that you can put uh a CO2 cartridge onto the soda stream without purchasing it or exchanging it directly through them. But upon further reading, I noticed that the CO2 actually isn't food grade, it's uh paintball CO2 or designed for paintball guns.
+
+[30:33] Is that a concern? Well, that's an interesting question. So uh you know, uh if you go to the big restaurant shows, there are companies that only supply CO2 for the beverage industry, right? Um and also if you buy your gases from people like ISI, let's say in the small cartridges, you know, they make a lot about the purity of uh of the gases that go in it. Um I have always and everyone I know purchases CO2 not from paintball suppliers but from uh welding suppliers.
+
+[31:08] Uh including at you know restaurants and you know most of those unless you're getting your gas directly from Coca-Cola or Pepsi or whoever you deal with, you know, Universal Beverage or Coke, whoever you deal with. Um, you know, pretty much we're all using the welding gas and that's it. I've never noticed any taste problems or anything like that. I mean the stuff is, you know, it's it's high purity. I don't know uh I can't I can't say as I've studied it too much, except for I don't ever worry about it.
+
+[31:39] And I've actually filled I have a 40 I have a 40-pound or 50-pound siphon tank and I fill up smaller things, including twenty ounce paintball tanks with it. Fill it myself, you know. Although I I don't recommend filling your own tanks unless you do like a lot of reading on the safety, because if you fill your own tank and you do it wrong, you cause a serious uh it's a serious hazard. Uh an incorrectly filled tank is a serious, serious hazard. So I don't you know, I don't recommend doing it unless you've done a lot of research on it.
+
+[32:07] But yes, I wouldn't worry about it. I think you know, uh the soda stream people have done a great service to the world in that they've brought home carbonated beverages to a large, large number of people, but they are ripping you off for CO2. There is another one. Exactly. And that's yeah, that's kind of why I wanted to go with uh this little mod clip that they have is just so I could basically cheap out a bit more on that without spending the two or three hundred bucks it would cost me to get the you know twenty-pound tank and the regulatory.
+
+[32:34] That's the thing. Twenty pound tank, a twenty-pound tank and a regulator is not that expensive. Everyone buys it, and this is no offense to any homebrew people that are are listening, but those guys are small shops and need to make uh they that they make their profit off, but but they don't sell that many, right? So the prices on like a uh on a tank are are fairly high in a regulator. You know, if you you can get a five pound tank, which is a lot easier to sling if you're going uh if you're doing it in your house and in twenty.
+
+[33:04] And I want to say that a five pound tank is it's way under a hundred bucks. And a regulator is like thirty if you get it from uh from Mark Powers in uh in uh the Guntersville, Alabama. I don't know about Canada. I don't know what the rules are up there. You know, I hesitate buying a used tank just because you gotta make sure when you buy a used I mean you can, I have, but you gotta make sure when you buy a used tank that it's still certified, otherwise you're gonna have to get it certified.
+
+[33:27] Um you know what I mean? But once you get the investment in in once you have that tank, then the CO two is so cheap it's ridiculous. Your price per liter drops to, you know, like a penny. It's ridiculo you know, like a twenty pound CO two tank does like on the order of two hundred gallons of seltzer water. I mean think about that.
+
+[33:49] And then and let's say it's twenty bucks, which I don't even think it's twenty bucks. So that's twenty bucks for two hundred gallons, you can really get more. That's uh well, what is that? That's uh that's ten dollars, that's a dollar for ten gallons. Is that right?
+
+[34:02] Is that right? Yeah. Yeah. It's a dollar for ten gallons, so that's ten cents a gallon, uh that's like like two and a half cents a liter. Think about that.
+
+[34:13] Yeah, yeah. Ridiculous. Yeah. Yeah. Plus you're not gonna run out very often.
+
+[34:17] So no, no, never. Not you know. Once every couple years, probably. I mean, I mean look, once you have it in your house, I go through a lot of so I go through tanks and tanks and tanks, especially, you know, when you first set up your rig, you'll probably have a leaky system and you'll lose your tank a lot faster than you should. But yeah, tank lasts a good long time, even with a family of four that drinks almost exclusively seltzer, it lasts a good long time.
+
+[34:39] So I would definitely go that route. It's gonna save you money in the long run for for for sure. And then later on, okay if you decide to move on to a different system, you already have the tank. You can you can do anything you want. If you want to get a carbonator cap system and to take a T branch off your regulator and then uh do cocktails that way, which is kind of more flexible than doing it in soda stream style, you can.
+
+[35:00] That's only another $15, sixteen dollar investment to your system because you can upgrade it right away, and you're not paying for a preposterous amount for the CO two every time you do it. Everyone tries to make their money on the gas. And for me, that's just not a proposition I enjoy. Okay. You know what I mean?
+
+[35:17] All right, great. Thanks for all the info, Dave. Appreciate it. Love the show. Oh, thanks a lot.
+
+[35:14] No problem. Good luck with it. Okay. So uh back to the safety on Ken Ingbert's question on the Sears all. So the uh I mean, first of all, obviously, we have lawyers looking at it.
+
+[35:31] We have uh insurance companies uh we're we're talking to about getting uh insurance, and like I'm sure a good chunk of the cost of the item to the consumer is going to be our insurance for it. Uh but we're doing a lot of work to make sure that the product itself is uh safe. So the you know, the the initial design of it was um kind of operator ease of use and comfort, right? So the cone is the cone was there originally to stop heat from coming back on your knuckles to make sure that everything worked fine there. Uh the second that then after we got initial usability down, uh we focused uh, you know, a lot of our attention is being focused right now on safety issues.
+
+[36:10] So, you know, the very first thing we said is this thing is too tippy. So we made a clamp, uh clamp that fits on it. Um and the clamp actually is kind of cool because the clamp will fit on uh butane tank, the tall propane tank, uh, and the camping propane tank. It'll also fit on a wine bottle if you want to take it to a picnic. So you're wine, yeah, right?
+
+[36:28] Woo! So your wine bottle doesn't fall over. That's the that's the only thing Nastasha cares about is that it fits on the wine bottle, right, Stas? That's right. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[36:36] And what's and what's the name of this thing, Dave? It's the JED clamp. Because why? We're stupid. Yeah, we're stupid.
+
+[36:44] But what but no one put some people might not get it? Go get the go get the jet clamp, jet clamp it, jet clamp it. Get it? Get it. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[36:52] Yeah, it's a good one, right? And everyone's like, You're stupid, that's a dumb name. And you're like, guess what? I don't care. I get to name it.
+
+[36:58] You don't, it's the JED clamp. Anyway, so uh Jet Clamp will fit on a propane tank, butane uh tank, wine bottle, you name it. In fact, eventually we want to sell that sucker just for use with regular torches because I've always thought torches were unsafe standing up there on its own. So that's something we addressed. But Dave Chang, especially was like, people aren't always going to put the um put the clamp on.
+
+[37:20] So we're trying to engineer it such that it's safe even without that. First of all, the one that has been on the on our web there, there's if we've modified it since then, there's a safety cage around it. And the safety cage is made of wire so that it doesn't uh retain heat very much, and you can uh you can literally knock it over on the table and it won't catch anything on fire. And it's still hot, not gonna lie, but you can you can hit it after it's been on for a long time and not sustain horrible burns as if it uh like you would if if the naked cone fell on you. Uh and we're still right now, before we one of the reasons we haven't kickstarted yes, we're still working on a bunch of different safety tweaks to make it as safe as we possibly can.
+
+[37:59] Uh, you know, and in addition, of course, it's gonna come with a list of instructions a mile long on what to do and what not to do, but rest assured that uh the safety of the product is um you know, once we came up with the functionality that we liked, the safety of the product is our primary concern. Wouldn't you say that's true, Stas? Yes. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Okay.
+
+[38:20] Uh uh that was a good that's enough on that, right, Stas? Bueno, bueno? Okay, bueno. Uh Brendan Hodkins writes in from Phoenix, Arizona. I haven't been to Phoenix in a long time.
+
+[38:31] Stas, you ever been to Phoenix? Yes, I have. I don't like it. What? What do you have against Phoenix?
+
+[38:35] What? You don't like it. What is it? No, I think it There's no hipsters there, Stas. What?
+
+[38:41] Who the hell do you like? You don't like hipsters? If I have a new contest, you'll get a free t shirt. If you write in five things Nastasia likes. No one will ever win that.
+
+[38:54] Yeah. Now, like you you'd have that contest done before the end of the show if you're like tweet in five things she hates. Yeah. It'd be over. That's not the point.
+
+[39:03] Yeah, yeah. Five things she likes. So what do you have against Phoenix besides the the awesome Sawaro cactuses and the and the awesome smell of the desert? Uh my grandmother lived there. I do like Sedona.
+
+[39:14] Sedona is beautiful. Have you been there? Whoa. Would you like Sedona? You don't wait.
+
+[39:18] Hold up. You don't like hipsters, but you like weird hippie freaks? No offense, Sedona? I know. I like the landscape.
+
+[39:24] I don't like the weird hippie freak part. No offense, weird hippie freaks. We love you. But uh, yeah, no, uh, Sedona's nice. My uh my father-in-law used to fly into Sedona's airport, and that's a bumpy ride in a Cessna 172, let me tell you.
+
+[39:39] Anyway, uh, I like I like Phoenix. I think it's good stuff. I haven't been out there in a long, long, long time. Probably 13 years. Anyway, uh, I hope they got the pollution problem fixed.
+
+[39:49] You know, when I used to go out there in the in the 90s, they were like the last place on earth you could still use leaded gas. I hope they've changed that. I have no idea. Anyway, uh Brandon says, I discovered your podcast a few weeks ago and have been catching up on the episode since then. I have a few questions.
+
+[40:02] I bought a poly science creative series circulator last week, and I've been using Ziploc bags per Euro low temperature primer. Are there any applications where a vacuum sealer is a must have? For example, would I need to vacuum seal short ribs before I cook them for seventy two hours? Uh no, you don't. Uh however, well, we'll get into it.
+
+[40:21] Uh, would the Vacmaster VP one one two chamber sealer work well enough to also do a quick pickling, or would I need a more expensive chamber sealer for that? So we'll hand let's handle this before we uh before I get on the second question. So here's the deal. You can do, and I say this in the in the, you know, when we used to teach it, um, you know, you can do 90% of what you want to do uh without a vacuum by using Ziploc. However, right?
+
+[40:51] If you seal something in a vacuum bag, so so that's just from a cooking standpoint. Vacuum shines in food preservation, right? So there's two reasons to use uh there, well, there's many. But the but you know, two of the two of the main reasons to use a vacuum machine are one, you can bag things so you can do low temperature cooking, and for me personally, that's the most important thing. Two, uh by removing the oxygen from the bag, you are uh, and also by removing any sort of gas uh content, if you're gonna freeze, let's say something, if you're gonna freeze it, uh by removing uh air and or oxygen, all that stuff, you are preserving the product in a in a better condition for a longer time.
+
+[41:31] Also doing things like preventing freezer burn if you're gonna freeze, etc. etc., preventing crystallization uh because there's no surface from which the water can migrate out and form crystals on the surface. Okay. So for preservation, you need uh vacuum. And the better the vacuum, the happier you're gonna be.
+
+[41:50] I haven't the vacmaster VP112, which is what what you're talking about, is uh I've never used it, but I've looked at it on the web a bunch of times. It is a lot cheaper than the pumps, the the vacuum sealers that I'm used to. And uh what it it amounts, it's a chamber machine, which means that you're not sucking the air out of the bag, you're sucking the air out of a chamber and then sealing the bag. That by far and away is the better system to use than one where you're sucking air out of the bag. I've had nothing but bad luck with the ones where you suck the air out of the bag, with the exception of like 36-inch striped bass, which I can't figure out how to seal any other way.
+
+[42:25] Uh so anyway, so yes, so the chamber is a good good way to go, but the the vacmaster looks like just kind of uh like a food saver on steroids. And by that I mean it doesn't have a commercial quality vacuum pump in it. All of the kind of all of the big kid vacuum machines, the chamber machines, have in them a bush pump, pump made by the Bush Corporation. And those things are monsters. They're they're always, always work.
+
+[42:56] They're awesome, right? They suck a very fast vacuum and there's go down to a very low uh number of millibars. So they're they're just a good piece of equipment all the way around. And all of the major ones that that you find, you know, mini pack, multivac, and cotch, they all use that brand because everyone knows they're the best ones out there for normal use, right? Now, this guy has a piston pump in it, which it has its limitations.
+
+[43:22] It's never going to pump as hard a vacuum as those other things. It's never gonna pump as quickly as those other things. Now, the question is, is it enough? I don't know. You know, when I looked on the web, I looked this morning and I looked at a bunch of reviews online of people that have it.
+
+[43:37] You know, they buy it at Cabela's, which is you know, the you know, the sporting goods store because you know hunters buy it and things like this. And some of the people that have it like it. However, I never saw this. I never saw, hey, you know what? I'm used to working in a kitchen or in a processing plant with you know uh a real vacuum machine, like a mini-pack.
+
+[43:57] And I had this one and it's almost as good. Didn't see that once. Didn't see that once. I did not see one consumer uh or one customer review of that machine that's that um that said that it compared to what I would consider to be you know the the commercial machines that I that I'm used to. And I will also say I spoke to a mini pack rep yesterday, and he said that in one of the places they sell a lot of uh vacuum things in Alaska because they have a lot of fish and they're vacing the fish down for uh you know for sh for freezing and shipping.
+
+[44:30] And he says that literally in their in their uh uh showroom, they have that unit, the vacmaster, sitting next to their unit, so you can make a decision for yourself which way to go. Now, at home, maybe it's enough. I don't really know how high of a vacuum level it can get. If the vacuum pump is no better than a food saver, it's not gonna do as good a job, uh a quick pickles, anywhere near as good a job as a real vacuum machine uh can do, but I don't have any personal experience with it. Uh what do you think, Staz?
+
+[44:58] Good. Yeah, man, I don't want to be snobby about it. You know what I mean? Like I feel like I'm being a jerk because it is literally a third of the price of the next machine up, one third, you know what I mean? So I don't know whether you can get away with it or not.
+
+[45:12] No one's ever sent us one, so I so I can't make a uh an informed judgment. If anyone out there in uh in uh Tweeter land has uh used both uh like a regular commercial machine, like a mini pack, a multivac or a cotch or something similar, and one of those vac masters, please just you know, tweet in and tell us what you think, whether or not it was uh whether or not it would do anything. Okay. Second question. Is there a way to make powdered Dr.
+
+[45:38] Pepper? That's the FCO that's all used, does. Yeah. Wouldn't you put it in uh liquid nitrogen? No, that would just freeze it.
+
+[45:46] That would just freeze it. Oh, yeah. Yeah. Anyway, second question. Is there a way to make powdered Dr.
+
+[45:44] Pepper? I thought it would make a good addition to spice rubs. If it is possible, what would be the shelf life? Well, the shelf life would probably be non-finite. You know what I mean?
+
+[45:58] If you could do it. Here's the problem. Uh dehydrating things with uh sugar in them can be quite difficult because uh at the more you dehydrate something, kind of the the more the sugar doesn't want to lose that last little bit of water until you crystallize it out. But it's more difficult to crystallize because they're using high fructose corn syrup, etc. etc.
+
+[46:16] Here's what you do. First of all, forget using regular Dr. Pepper, right? Forget it. Just go to you can go, you can buy, I saw it on the Sam's Club website this morning.
+
+[46:25] You can buy uh Dr. Pepper syrup. I couldn't locate the exact bricks, but since uh Dr. Pepper is probably somewhere around 11 bricks, and since it's a five to one syrup uh to soda ratio, that means that you multiply by six to get uh you multiply by six to get the bricks. So it's probably somewhere in the area of 60 to 66 bricks, meaning 66% sugar in the syrup that you get.
+
+[46:51] So for every kilo of that, you only need to remove uh three, you only need to remove uh 300 mils, 333 mils of water. Now, what I would do is you could try boiling some water out, but it's gonna get sludgy, it's gonna heat up fast. Once it heats up, it's gonna start changing the flavor. You could try spreading it thin and putting it in a dehydrator and then trying to get it down to something more brittle and then pulverizing it with the rest of your salt rub so that your salt or your sh your spice rub absorbs some of the extra moisture and it's gonna turn grainy and sandy. Uh you could do that.
+
+[47:26] Uh, but you know, short of that, you're gonna need like something commercial like a spray dryer, or what I would more preferably do is freeze dry, because freeze dried, you could get it down to a powder. It would just be like sugar and it wouldn't have any heat damage. But I don't know anyone that makes it freeze dried. And actually, Stas, did you ever find that person who could do uh contract freeze drying? Yeah, I have a guy.
+
+[47:47] Yeah? In Massachusetts, yeah. I'll tweet it out. Tweet it out. Nastasha on uh uh what's your Twitter there, Hammer BDX?
+
+[47:53] Hammer BDX, yeah. Yeah, Nastasha will Twitter out uh the person who can do contract freeze drying, because maybe they can freeze dry you some Dr. Pepper syrup and then uh you have Dr. Pepper Powder. Uh they made a Dr.
+
+[48:03] Pepper gum. When I say uh I forget who made it, but I I saw that on the web too. They made it. Here's an interesting thing about Dr. Pepper.
+
+[48:09] I looked it up. Uh of course I looked it up. So the the flavorings, did you know Stas does not contain prune juice? What? Dr.
+
+[48:18] Pepper? You know, for years I always thought it was prune. In fact, there's no prune in it or prune flavor. And like everyone. You know what?
+
+[48:25] Well, you just mentioned one thing that I like, so that's a free giveaway for someone today. So is that still count though? Oh, yeah, alright. Ah, fair, fair. So, but but still, like naming four naming four things.
+
+[48:34] We're gonna be waiting for Godot with this thing. So, uh so Dr. Pepper doesn't actually contain prunes. Uh, but that kind of spoils it for me because like I love the whole prune thing. In fact, my favorite, you know how like every soda has like a rip-off brand at the supermarket?
+
+[48:48] Mm-hmm. You know, like whatever. And the one my favorite Dr. Pepper ripoff is uh Dr. Thunder.
+
+[48:54] Presumably because of the effect of the prune on your GI tract. Dr. Thunder. Anyway, uh so point is uh it doesn't contain prune. Here are the here, according to there's a uh you uh there's a a fact, an F A Q.
+
+[49:08] Uh and here you look it up under free new York.net DP fact, standing for Dr. Pepper Fact. Uh and here's what they list. Um they go through a bunch of things. This seems kind of relatively true.
+
+[49:20] Uh vanilla, almond, right? And this is why it's Almoretto and Amaretto and rum is the flaming Dr. Pepper shot. So because it's vanilla, almond, denatured rum, which they probably means like some sort of rum, dealized rum, uh, oil of orange, and uh phosphoric acid and lactic acid and uh also some citric. So really interesting acid blend in there.
+
+[49:42] And so uh those flavors explain why the flaming Dr. Pepper, which is amaretto and uh emaretto and rum lit on fire, why that tastes like a Dr. Pepper's because you've hit, if you put a little orange in it, you've hit pretty much all the the high notes in uh especially if you use an age rum, which is gonna have the vanilla notes from the wood, you've hit almost all the high notes in a Dr. Pepper. That's cool, right, Stas?
+
+[50:08] Yeah, yeah. Really cool. Are you are you a fan of the uh are you a fan of the flaming Dr. Pepper drink? Not really.
+
+[50:16] You prefer the actual Dr. Pepper? I do. Okay. You know it every lunch, every Tuesday.
+
+[50:21] Yes, that's true. So I uh I'm not gonna even eat lunch because like what am I gonna by the way, so the r the reason why Nastash and do the and I do this show is not for you fine listeners out there, although I guess it is. For the pizza. It's for the pizza and the salad. We get a pizza and a salad.
+
+[50:34] That's the that's the that's the pizza. Well, really, that's it. That's the big bucks we make. And getting to talk to Jack and Joe every week. Yeah.
+
+[50:41] Which is like getting two pizzas in a salad, really. And seeing indie Jesus sometimes. Yeah, sometimes. Although he hates us because, you know, you talk smack about him. Jack and I equal one pizza.
+
+[50:53] I thought that was good. You want it, I mean, like you think that's that's fine. That's about it. That's accurate. Yeah.
+
+[50:57] Yeah, yeah. So anyway, so like I'm not that guy that's gonna sit here and just eat my pizza by myself in silence. I'm just gonna I'm not gonna have lunch this week. Unless you guys want to eat with me. Do you guys want to eat with me?
+
+[51:10] Maybe Joe can have a pizza with you and uh yeah. All right, nice. All right, Stas. Stas, you've been replaced. No.
+
+[51:17] All right. So Chris Anderson from Modernist Pantry writes in. Hey, Chris. Modernist Pantry. Uh hope all is well.
+
+[51:24] We have just been getting a number of calls lately from your listeners looking for Novo Shape. Uh, just wanted to let you know we are now stocking it based on your recommendation. Chris Anderson from Modernist Pantry. Novo Shape, good call. Uh Stas, let's order some of that stuff for ourselves because I don't think I have any left.
+
+[51:37] Here's the uh here's the deal with Novo Shape. Novo Shape, uh it's uh the exact opposite of the enzyme that we use almost all the time, which is Pectanex Ultra SPL. Novo shape uh cross links in the presence of calcium. Don't forget to add your calcium, people. Uh you need to add calcium and it cross-links uh pectins in the presence of it and makes fruit and other vegetables a lot firmer.
+
+[51:59] So, like the ossified uh vegetables or whatever that they you know do at Moogaritza or that they do it NOMA, all that, you can do that uh without using very heavily flavor-mediated calciums by uh using Novo Shape in in conjunction with like a milder calcium. Also, if you want to make yourself some cocktail cherries from fresh cherries when cherry season runs around, or when any of your fresh fruits are coming in and you want to can them and have a real nice firm fruit, you can use Novo Shape and calcium and really firm the fruit up so that it keeps for a long time if you're gonna brand it or something like that. So uh as the spring and summer rolls around and the fruit comes in, consider getting some Novo shape to really just increase the quality of your brandied and candied fruits. How's that for a pitch? Yeah.
+
+[52:46] Okay. Uh finally, Eric writes in on the red velvet cake. Hey cooking, and uh uh I know we've done we've dealt a little bit with red velvet cake in the past, but uh here we go. Hey cooking issues crew. I've been looking into red velvet cakes recently, uh and I'd love to find a recipe without dye or beets.
+
+[53:03] My research showed that the anthocyanins, uh that anthocyanins uh would turn the batter red. Uh uh, the anthocyanins that you would turn the batter red with buttermilk and vinegar. The problem is most cocoa in these recipes is Dutch processed and is thus too basic. I'm looking, not looking for an extreme uh blood red, but something more than the brown chocolate cake that normally comes without dye. Any help would be appreciated.
+
+[53:27] Okay, here's the problem, Eric. Uh all of the natural colorings that I know that are red uh come from one of two uh like styles. There's betylanes, which are from beets and other you know related uh plants, and anthocyanins, which you get in uh things like cabbages or in uh in a bunch of flowers and teas. And all of those pigments are pH sensitive to to one degree or another. Um that said, you can uh you know you can uh cat the cabbage is fairly neutral uh if you want to go anthocyanin and beets, I don't know how how neutral it is.
+
+[54:08] The problem with beets is it's it beets are extremely concentrated source of color, which is why they're good. But uh a good source, I know you said you didn't want to do uh beets, but if you want to look at a really red cake that's beet-based, go to uh the big bake theory blogs, uh you know, blog. And they uh uh the person there, I don't know who it is actually, uh, but they they did a whole series of tests, and the red velvet cake, their beet-based red velvet cake is freaking red. And for them, you know, they they point out all the things that are important. When you're using a natural, um, when you're using a natural dye, anthocyanin or betylin based, like the things that are important are the pH, and you're gonna want your pH to be lower, which means that you're gonna have to switch away from the Dutch uh Dutch cocoa unless you really, really insist on having the flavor of the Dutch processed cocoa, in which case you're gonna have some difficulty because it's difficult to get a bright red if you're gonna have something.
+
+[55:03] I mean, the reason that Dutch processed cocoa is the color it is and is the flavor it is, is because of the alkaline processing. And I think, like in other words, I don't think you can just uh add extra acidity to neutralize the Dutch cocoa and have it work, but maybe you can. I have to run some tests. Uh heat. So they found on that website that uh, and I've noticed this as well, that the longer something is heated and the further away it is from raw, the less red it is, and the more you have to use to get it uh to that color.
+
+[55:29] So on that website, they literally blend in a food processor raw beets and water. That's gotta be one king hell mess, right? It's gotta be some messy stuff. I'm gonna make Nastasha do that if she does it because I'm gonna do it. Hey guys, we we got a tweet in for five with hashtag five things hammer likes.
+
+[55:46] Oh, let's hear it. Oh wow. I'm ready to disqualify number four, but I'll read it for you guys. All right. We've got uh champagne.
+
+[55:53] Oh, yes. Check Mark Ladner. Oh, I don't know why they said that, but I'm gonna assume check. Check. California?
+
+[56:02] Hmm. Check? That's kind of brilliant. Yeah, I guess so. I have to give.
+
+[56:06] Yeah. Okay. So you hate everything from your childhood, and that includes California. True. Go on, Jack.
+
+[56:12] All right. Number four, this is where I disqualify, hating hipsters. I don't know if you can like hating hipsters. I know. That's kind of a strong move, though.
+
+[56:19] Yeah, it is. Yeah. I like hating on hipsters, though. All right. And then number five is Zappos, aka.
+
+[56:30] So I'll let you, I'll let you give it the yay or nay, Nastasia. Yay, yeah. All right, we got a winner. Who is it? T shirts on the way.
+
+[56:37] Who is it? Cool. Uh from Twitter, we got it's Elliot Pavanow. Oh, Elliot. There we go.
+
+[56:43] And congratulations on your t shirt. Doesn't he already have a t shirt? Isn't he a member? I don't know. Email us your size or maybe your girlfriend's size or something.
+
+[56:50] Nice. We'll get one out. All right. Thanks. Thanks for writing in, Elliot.
+
+[56:53] Uh, okay, so what I would do, uh, Eric, and I'm gonna try and look more into it. I have a bunch of articles uh that I have backlog, read, uh, backlogged and to read on uh different ways to affect the stability of uh natural based red, red and blue pigments, because I've been doing some anthocyanin work uh for the bar. So I'm gonna try to get back to that. As soon as I figure it out, I'll do it. But go to the Big Bake Theories website and look up the recipe they have there.
+
+[57:18] They they don't use uh Dutch processed cocoa, and they use uh cream of tartar and buttermilk and fresh beets. Uh so anyway, check it out. I know you said no beat, but check it out. You could probably do the same thing with cabbage as long as you really acidify the sucker so that it goes bright, bright red. Uh now, on the way out, I want to say that, you know, I'm on this, you know Nation's restaurant news.
+
+[57:39] Anyone know what I'm talking about? Nation's Restaurant News? Yeah. I read it, yeah. Anyway.
+
+[57:42] Uh uh it's Nations Restaurant News. Set, you know, they send stuff to my inbox every day. So this one caught my caught my eye. KFC. This is what's awesome about the world, right?
+
+[57:52] Big this is big news. KSC is coming out with boneless chicken. Did you guys know this? Yeah, they're doing away with the regular stuff, right? Are they doing away with it?
+
+[57:59] I think they the boneless will be the new promoted line above everything else. Don't worry, folks. They're not like raising some sort of like, you know, like, you know, osteo challenged chicken. They're actual chickens that the bones have been removed from. It's not like some like weird sack of growing chicken plasm that they have around.
+
+[58:17] They're real chickens. Now, I've been saying, by the way, I've been saying boneless chicken for decades because my wife does not like to eat chicken off the bone. First of all, thank God she doesn't listen to a word I say because she hates when I talk about that in public. But she does not like to eat chicken on the bone. And so for years I've boned everything.
+
+[58:35] You know, bone the legs, bone, just bone the whole bone everything. And it is really, frankly, more enjoyable. It's more enjoyable because I'm not going to call anyone out Nastasha, but she takes three bites off the drumstick and then leaves all the meat around the bone for something. Weak. Very.
+
+[58:50] Yeah, whereas when you boneless, you eat the whole thing. That's guilty as charge, right, Stas? That is true. Yeah, yeah. Well, yeah, but it's it's endearing in a way.
+
+[58:58] No. No. Anyway. So uh, so here's the thing. It's like all of a sudden, it's like huge news that they're gonna go boneless on the on the on the KFC, and all they have to do to make big news is take the bones out of the freaking chicken.
+
+[59:12] That's all it takes. We're in the wrong, we're in the wrong damn business. I swear to God. But this is what got me, and this is why I'm gonna end with this. Here is a subset of everything that is wrong with the mental process of American food thinking.
+
+[59:26] Okay. Uh the the one of the one of the firms that was hired by KFC as a senior consumer research manager, said this about why they think the boneless Kentucky fried chicken is going to be popular. Are you ready for this? Uh, this is quoted in in uh Nation's Restaurant News. I think this also has to do with healthfulness.
+
+[59:47] Because if you see boneless, even if the product is breaded and fried, we tend to think of boneless as less. And so therefore, maybe more helpful. I think the healthful, seriously. Uh, I think the idea of boneless in general is one we'll see a lot more of. Can you freaking believe that, people?
+
+[1:00:08] That is how dumb. That is how dumb people think that we are that by just having the word less attached to the word bone, that the fried chicken is going to be more helpful. Not that I like thinking of fried chicken in health terms anyway, because you know what you should eat? A reasonable amount of anything you find delicious and don't go crazy, including fried chicken, bones in or bones out, cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org.
+
+[1:00:39] You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today.
+
+[1:01:03] Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Fairway Market, like no other market, a New York City institution that sells the best local, national, and international artisan foods for prices that can't be beat. For more information, visit fairway market.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit heritageradionetwork.org for thousands more. Cooking issues!
+
+[1:03] Hello, and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Kicking Us coming to you live! Live. The back of Roberta's Pizzeria in where is it, Jack? Uh it's this place called Bushwick.
+
+[1:15] Bushwick that Nastasia hates. Uh yeah, who won that? That was Elliot Papanow, right? That was Elliot Papanow. Shirt went out in the mail yesterday, man.
+
+[1:23] That's awesome. Nice. Thanks, buddy. Nice, nice. Uh well, joined as usual with uh Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, uh, Jack and Joe in the engineering booth.
+
+[1:31] Hey guys. It's a beautiful day out. Yeah, uh, which Nastasha hates. Uh that's another It's not that she hates the weather. I hate the way people like the weather.
+
+[1:40] Yeah. Yeah. Nah. I you guys are getting a little bit of an insight here. A little bit of an insight.
+
+[1:45] And special guest in the studio today with us, Ariel Johnson, who is a uh now what what's your you're at UC Davis, you're in the Enology department, but you s you studying right now bitters, correct? Yeah, that's one of the things I'm studying. I do analytical chemistry and flavor chemistry on bitters and other things. Right, and you are a uh a not a professional or semi professional. I mean, uh it dovetails with your profession, but you also privately are a uh a flavor chemical collector, true or false.
+
+[2:12] Very true. Yeah. And so uh like how big's your collection now at this point? A flavor chemicals? Yeah.
+
+[2:16] Like in the lab? Uh organs that you have around, you have access to? Probably a thousand. Yeah, nice. We uh Stas and I visited uh a place called David Michaels, which is a flavor house down uh in uh outside of Philadelphia.
+
+[2:27] And what's what factory was it right near? It was right near some factory. It was making some Nabisco? Whole dang place smell like Oreos. True or false until you get in.
+
+[2:35] Anyway. And they make some amazing vanilla. They're the like I thought I knew something about vanilla and I talked to other vanilla guy, and then I realized that you know I had not yet been born. In other words, like I had less I had less knowledge about vanilla than an infant has about uh the world uh as they're born. Uh so anyway, so that we saw their flavor uh stuff.
+
+[2:52] It's pretty amazing. Amazing stuff. Any any personal favorites right now, Ariel? Favorite aroma compounds? Yeah, they're like unusual ones.
+
+[2:59] Like don't give me any, don't give me some hexanal or any crap like that. Give me some hexanazaline. Yeah, yeah, okay. Um I quite like rotundone. That's uh the impact compound for black pepper.
+
+[3:08] Wait, w what's the name of it? Rotundone. Ret rotundone, like rotund. Yeah. Yeah, it's uh it's a 15 carbon sesquiterpine.
+
+[3:15] It's also in uh Syrah wines. Yeah. Yeah. I like you know, I love the word well first of all everyone knows terpene is a great word, but sesqui. Yeah.
+
+[3:25] Add sesqui to anything. One and a half. Yeah, it's a great, you know, it's like we need to we need to have like sesqui centennials more often. Right? Totally.
+
+[3:32] Sesque centennials are are the are the bomb. Back when I was a kid, they actually were having sesqui centennials for things like uh well, when is it yeah, civil war? No, that's right now, actually, Sesque Centennial, right? Hundred and fifty. What's 150 plus?
+
+[3:44] 2011? Yeah, that was right. Sesque Centennial coming up, was coming came up on the thing. When I was a kid, it must have been some other war. Nah, whatever.
+
+[3:53] And a big thank you out to Co. Miles, who's not only a supporter of our radio network. Is this true or false, Jack? Oh, yeah, he is. Not only an incredibly uh like interesting guy I met at the Sous Vide class, uh, Sous vide low temperature class.
+
+[4:07] I will not reveal his history for fear. But also now an incredibly generous, uh, incredibly generous giver of the five-volume modernist cuisine uh set. Yeah, I'm gonna give him one of these. I mean it was awesome. And and now I never ever again will be able to make the excuse.
+
+[4:29] I don't own the books, so I can't tell you what they said, right? I vow. Yeah, I guess you gotta read them all now. I vow never to say that again. Uh very, very actual and real heartfelt thanks.
+
+[4:42] Thank you very much. Uh I believe he lives in the Houston area, right? Houston? Anyway, I think so. Um by the way, again, he's involved in NASA a little bit.
+
+[4:52] I'm so excited. This uh summer, we're uh or you know, semi-related NASA. Anyway, this summer uh stash, are you going down with us when we do the uh the mango tasting? We're gonna do the mango tasting again this year. Harold McGee and I and maybe Andy Ricker, the chef from PacPak, uh good friend of ours.
+
+[5:05] And we're gonna go last year, Harold McGee, two years ago, Harold McGee and I went to the Fairchild, which is the world's biggest collection of mangoes, at least the United States' uh biggest collection of mangoes. And unlike a lot of other mango collections throughout the world, like for instance, famous mango collections in in uh India uh or mango collections in uh Southeast Asia, the Florida one is very interesting because South Date, it's like south of Miami, where it's like the very tip where you can actually grow almost anything. You can almost grow mango seams, not quite. I mean you can, but not out in the open. Anyways.
+
+[5:33] They specialize in having everything, so like all varieties of mango. And uh the people out there, who are their names? Norris Leedman and Richard Campbell, I believe, are the two lead people out there. Uh and they are mango nuts and jackfruit nuts. Last time we were uh rained out kind of and also uh or it just was a big uh it was a big mess.
+
+[5:53] It was a big mess, the visit. But we're gonna go again. Uh and when I go down there, I'm taking the kids to Cape Canaveral. You like that? Because you know, Dak's obsessed with rockets now.
+
+[6:01] Yeah, he won't yeah, he's like, I want to become some sort of a scientist astronaut. But we'll see. We'll see. You can do it if you want. We'll see.
+
+[6:07] Okay. Uh another oh, by the way, Ariel, tell them about the special uh the special uh chromatograph thing you have. The special chromatograph thing? Yeah. The the Franken G C?
+
+[6:18] Yeah. Okay, so we have a uh a gas chromatograph mass spectrometer, which you use for analyzing the volatiles responsible for aroma in a mixture or a sample. But uh we have one with a switch and a cold trap that lets us basically remix all the volatiles from a sample or take a few out and have uh like an omission mixture and then see how that changes the aroma. Yeah, it's pretty badass, right? Yeah, yeah, it's the only one in the world.
+
+[6:41] Yeah, and so built it. Who who paid for it? Like in other words, what research, what research had money for it? Um I think honestly, we built it from spare parts. Really?
+
+[6:51] Yeah. So this is one of the rare instances where you get to do something cool in a scientific context and don't need to get big industry to pay for it. Yeah, we might have had a little bit of National Science Foundation or um Jastro Shields, which is like a UC Davis-based environmental chemistry grant, but Jastro Shields? Yeah, it's like some endowed thing. Is that like a like a space robot?
+
+[7:10] What is that? No, I think it's a person. Um sorry, Jasper. But uh, but yeah, I mean basically it's an old, an older GC that we were replaced with a newer model, so we um maybe spent like a thousand, two thousand dollars on parts and then put it together. Nice.
+
+[7:26] And uh and uh you weren't using that piece of equipment, I don't think, but Ariel is the person who's doing the uh the GC work um on the Searsol, showing that the torch taste that we all had thought was uh you know a product of incomplete combustion was act is actually more likely caused by um secondary combustion products from the high temperature of the torch, true or false. Yeah, that's what it looks like. That's what it looks like. And uh also did some uh some uh you know work for us on what happens to lime juice over time as it ages, correct? Yeah.
+
+[7:56] And you want to give us the quick the quick spin down on the findings there? Uh it's looking like rather than finding any specific oxidation products over the course of like four to twenty hours, we're actually seeing like an overall reduction in volatiles. Right. So you think it's and then Harold McGee, uh, you know, it's always been uh saying that it thing changes like this could uh often just be the reduction of stuff that's covering other stuff up rather than the creation of new crap. Yeah?
+
+[8:20] Yeah, definitely. That's totally possible. Yeah, you like can you imagine like paraphrasing McGee with the words crap interspersed every other word? Like for those of you that know him, like he doesn't talk that way. Yeah, yeah, he doesn't, he's not like crap on this crap unless unless he's imitating me, in which case in which case he does.
+
+[8:36] He does a pretty good imitation of me, I think. I don't hear him do you. You never heard him do it? He does my jer my jersey sometimes. Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah.
+
+[8:44] Anyways. Uh okay, let's do some questions before we get into some other craziness. Like, how to uh one more craziness. I had a really bad dream about mashed potatoes last night. Horrible.
+
+[8:53] Yeah, it was horrible. Like, well, so it was one of these situations where you're cooking dinner, right? And you let somebody else do something at your house for dinner, you know? It's a dream. Don't worry, people, this didn't happen.
+
+[9:04] And uh somehow they they were mashing the purpose potatoes. I don't know how the hell that happened in my house because you know, usually they don't they're not they don't mash so well. But anyway, whatever. So like whatever. They're mashing the potatoes.
+
+[9:15] And then I looked at the mashed potatoes right before they were gonna go out because I was seeing whether they were gonna add butter and or cream, and you know, I have my thoughts about both. And uh it was simultaneously lumpy and gloppy. And I was like, what the what the what have you done to the mashed potatoes? And they're like, Man, I put it in the food processor. It's like, what?
+
+[9:36] I was like, uh, you know I own both a ricer and a food meal. I own both. I own several of each. I was like, oh my god, I woke up in a sweat. I was like, oh I woke up and the mashed potatoes hadn't been destroyed that way.
+
+[9:51] That's but isn't that horrible? That's awful. It's horrible. Uh but it reminds me of a very interesting recipe that uh Nils, Noran used to make where he used to actually put potatoes with a little excess liquid in a vita prep and blend them until every single starch granule is completely ruptured and it formed kind of a gluey like potato gloop. And it was actually good, which is a classic example.
+
+[10:12] Another thing McGee uh harps on and I do as well, of taking something that is normally a flaw and pushing it so hard it becomes a benefit again. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Okay, enough enough of my crazy.
+
+[10:24] Maybe listeners should send us their food nightmares too, if they have any. Yeah? Yeah. Listeners, if you have any food nightmares, I don't mean actual food nightmares like you know, you incinerated the chicken, although I also appreciate those stories, Jack. You answer those questions.
+
+[10:36] I answer uh I try to prevent you from incinerating them and then tell you why they were incinerated. But uh yeah, if you have any actual like food like nightmares like that, it's like similar to the one where like you're trying to run away from someone and your feet turn to rubber. You know what that is? It's your feet are asleep. In the real life, you're in bed, your legs have gone asleep, and then so your legs actually can't move properly when you're asleep, and your body somehow senses this and turns your legs to rubber.
+
+[10:59] Yeah. Yeah. That's my theory. But born born by the fact that I've woken up, I have horrible circulation. What the heck?
+
+[11:06] This is not about this. Okay, okay, sorry. Okay. Uh we have a question in. Uh we have a late name for the uh we have a late name for the uh Searsol.
+
+[11:15] They wanted to name it Salah Hammer after you, after you stuff. Because it, you know, looks like a hammer, functional salamander, and would be your favorite weapon of choice. So Nastasha appreciates it, but as you know, we've already chosen the name. Okay. Ryan Santos writes in, here's a here's a clear here's a typical cooking issues question.
+
+[11:31] Uh I wrote in last week about whether it was worth spending $400 to get all uh to get a 200 milliliter centrifuge. Uh and I I said no. I said I don't think so. You know, no, I wouldn't say so. Uh you mentioned the cheaper uh champion model, but uh mentioned I could get into the three-liter range for about a thousand bucks.
+
+[11:47] So far, internet digging hasn't found me a model uh with three liters for that price. Can you follow up on that comment with some suggestions for that price quantity? Thanks, Ryan Santos. Well, uh I don't know whether these guys are all tapped out or not, but look, the the trick is this. Um the company that I buy my centrifuges, uh the manufacturer of my centrifuges is out of business.
+
+[12:07] Because it's out of business, you can get fairly good prices on ones that are of semi-recent origin, uh less than a decade old, right? And some of them haven't seen a lot of use. And the advantage is because they were somewhat common back in the day, there are lots of parts available. The company I use is Juan, which is a French company. Uh Juan was bought by Thermo, right, which is a large manufacturer of all kinds of scientific equipment.
+
+[12:29] Which is, I guess it's a division of Thermo Fisher, right? Or Thermo Fisher. Yeah. And so anyway, so Thermo bought those guys and then discontinued the Zhuan brand, right? So most people, when they're buying new centrifuges, most of the chefs I know, they're going, they're buying headaches, is what they're buying.
+
+[12:48] I don't know why. I guess they have a good price point, or they know, or like, you know, one buys one and then the other buys one. But I know Tony Canoyaro has a headache and Wiley both have headaches. Uh fairly small footprint. And but but for a non-refrigerated one, I think you're looking at like seven grand.
+
+[13:02] And for you know, uh fully tricked out one, you're probably looking closer to eight to ten grand with buckets and everything like that. Swinging bucket, you want to go swinging bucket. Um we can get into that much later about why you would choose a swinging bucket or a fixed uh angle centrifuge. If anyone actually cares about it, I could talk for a long time about which one you'd prefer. But anyway, uh in the kitchen, most likely you want a uh swinging bucket just because the fixed angle rotors, unless you have like a very special fixed angle rotor, have very narrow throats on the on the uh on the containers that are in them, and it's very hard to get the product out, even though technically they pellet a lot faster than a uh than uh swinging bucket does.
+
+[13:39] Okay, whatever. Again, um I don't buy uh the used ones from Zhuan can be very cheap. Uh now I used to buy them for a couple hundred bucks. I've talked about them enough. There's not that many out there, so you know, if ten people listen to me, then all of a sudden the price jumps and the availabilities go go down.
+
+[13:56] That said, there's a company called Ozark Biomedical, and they're somewhere in the Ozarks, God help me. I think they're in Arkansas somewhere. I think so, yeah. And uh Ozark Biomedical specializes in uh used and uh like fixing centrifuges, and one of the ones they carry is Zhuan. They often have reconditioned units, and they can run between 1,200 and 2500 or 3,000 bucks in that range with buckets and like a 90-day warranty, which is probably good enough.
+
+[14:25] Most stuff's gonna break within that period if it's gonna break. They'll also make sure that your uh buckets are sterilized for you, so you don't have to go on like bleachrabies.com and get rid of everything out of it. And uh they make sure that your buckets aren't dinged up so that you're not gonna have any like immediate fatigue fractures and a poorly handled bucket, and they make sure that the rotors are good. I mean the hazards these these centrifuges that rotate at these speeds aren't uh they're not like ultrafuges or super speeds where you actually have a possibility of of um what would you call it breaching the wall of the centrifuge should there be a rotor failure, right? So you know, once you get into the much larger, um much faster models, the the the energy contained is so great that you can throw even a large piece of equipment across and through a lab, you know.
+
+[15:09] And there are plenty of pictures on the internet's uh uh internets of uh rotor failures uh in ultra centrifuges. Now these units, as long as you get a newer unit that has the safety interlock, so you can't run it. Well, you can, but I'm not gonna talk about it, run it with the lid open, um, you know, you're probably not in a life or limb death situation. That said, you don't want to have a rotor failure. And when you buy used, you don't know whether some knucklehead like threw the buckets around, you don't know whether or not they cracked it, you don't know whether they cleaned it with a uh a detergent that is uh deleterious to aluminum, which is what these buckets are made out of.
+
+[15:44] You don't know whether it's sustained an impact, you don't know anything like this. So you sometimes I'll take a chance and I'll look at it and you know I'll make a judgment. But I've been using centrifuges for a bunch of years, and I had a bunch of people who had been using centrifuges for years look at my centrifuges before I started running them when I knew nothing about centrifuges. If you go with Ozark biomedical you won't be paying that much compared you'll be paying like probably a third to less of what you would buy for the equivalent new model and it's kind of guaranteed to work out of the box and they're also very friendly and we'll walk you through the parts of it if you have problems with it and they carry motors and boards and buckets and all the replacement parts. Hope that is that helpful yes okay because new ones are expensive.
+
+[16:25] I mean look oh look I just had someone yesterday hey Dave where can I buy a new centrifuge? I'm like you pass why is it that we've been doing this for so long and we're still buying scrippity scrappities off the internet. Do you remember that like our new what's our New Year's resolution styles you remember? No duct tape right no no duct tape on the box. I'm still a fan of duct tape the product but our our box of crap that we show up with will not be duct taped together anymore.
+
+[16:46] We're making the move to new bankers' boxes whenever we're moving stuff around by ourselves for no reason. And having other people move it well I mean I wouldn't go that far another wrist I told you it's like it's Joe are you over there? Yeah I'm here I'm here you know how like you know when you're a musician and you say every year you're like man next year someone else is going to carry my base rig. You know what I'm saying? Yeah get a van driver and all that.
+
+[17:10] Yeah people are going to carry our crap in and out of the gigs that ever happen? No. Of course not yeah no it never happens. You always end up carrying your own crap. You know what?
+
+[17:19] 42 still carrying my own crap I kind of like I kind of like being able to do it. Kind of keeps you not being a uh uh whatever anyway whatever. Uh so I have like a lot of years of carrying my own crap to go. That's what I just got from that. That's awesome.
+
+[17:33] Yeah, you know, you know what? Like plenty of people, I don't know, or just you know, don't follow the route where you, you know, make it a priority to have people carry carry your crap for you. Like uh, you know, we always dreamed but never made it a priority. Look where we are. Anyway.
+
+[17:45] Uh Chad Drazen writes in uh about this thing. What the heck is this thing? Uh and he uh points to a link on uh smokerama.com. Awesome website name, right? That is a pretty epic website name.
+
+[17:58] Yeah, yeah. You know you know what they make? Styles, any idea what they make? Aerial, anything? Is it is it food or marijuana?
+
+[18:03] Wow, uh good idea. They should get into that business, but uh they are pressure smoker manufacturers, pressure smoker, which I've never used a pressure smoker, but they're like you can make you can make a barbecue um barbecue ribs. They're not from around here, so they don't sound like that. You can make a barbecue rib in like an hour, like an hour flat. I don't really know that that's the case.
+
+[18:22] You can make a soft rib with a smoked flavor in an hour. Oh, is this the thing where it cooks the hamburger in like 12 seconds? Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. Is it like a pressure fryer? No, well, I mean, I'm presumably they they generate the smoke under pre like the entire system is sealed under pressure, and then I guess they must use a compressor to evacuate evacuate the excess smoke.
+
+[18:38] I have no idea. I didn't have a chance to look that up because it just came to me this morning. But uh, we but rest assured we will check it out. People are interested in smoking in every dang environment. People are like, can I smoke in my vacuum machine?
+
+[18:49] Can I smoke in my can I smoke in my clothes dryer? Can I smoke, you know, everyone wants to smoke in everything. True or false? Very true. Yeah, smoke.
+
+[18:56] Uh anyway, by smokerama, the folks who make large pressure smokers, and then in parents, are pressure smokers any good. Again, uh, Chad, I have no idea. I have no idea. Anyway, um the thing, the the the title of it, you ready for this? Instant burger.
+
+[19:12] Wow. You like that? Yeah. I wish we had invented something with that name. Seriously.
+
+[19:16] Instant burger. Okay. So uh it cooks uh precisely measured burgers, and by that they mean you're supposed to scoop it in like with a with a scooper delicious. Yeah, uh, and you're not allowed to put salt on the burger beforehand for reasons that will become apparent. But you can put in onions and bell peppers, but if you do that, you're not making a hamburger.
+
+[19:34] Listen to me, people. Do not put onions and bell peppers in raw inside of your hamburger. I think it's a horrible idea. What do you think, Sas? I think onions are raw?
+
+[19:43] I like a big thing of raw onion on top of my burger. But if you put it inside the burger, it'll just get like boiled. Yeah. Right? Yeah, that's not tasty.
+
+[19:50] There you go. See, take it from the scientist. Uh no offense if that's the way you make your burgers. No offense. Stas is like, you offend everyone, then say no offense.
+
+[19:58] It doesn't help. But it does. It does. People rarely get offended. Uh okay.
+
+[20:03] So uh it cooks uh precisely measured burgers in 25 seconds without getting hot. Now that's not strictly speaking true. It the the burgers get hot. What they mean is there's no a lot of not a lot of excess heat pumped into the kitchen. Okay.
+
+[20:14] Uh it draws an awful lot of current. I think their manual says 30 amps. Although I th uh 30, maybe it's like 20. I don't know, I gotta look it up. It runs off a regular 110 line.
+
+[20:21] So it does I don't know of any 110 appliances that take 30, so it's probably more like 15 or 20. Anyway, is this just an electric chair for burgers? Yes, it is. Uh it claims to cook the hamburgers simultaneously inside and out and only cooks them to well done by design. There's a microprocessor that determines when it's done, I suppose, by measuring the current load.
+
+[20:40] How does this work? Love the show. More questions for me to follow. Chad Drazen from 50 Licks LLC. Another good name, 50 Licks.
+
+[20:46] Although, oh no, we're not gonna get into the Tootsie Roll Center of a Tootsie Pop. We already talked about that on the air. You make a plane. You make a plane with licks? Yeah.
+
+[20:56] Was it any good? Yeah, it was really good. Oh good, yeah. Good shut up. Okay.
+
+[20:59] So uh yes, this is in fact an electric chair for hamburgers, and it works on a uh so there's direct resistance heating, right? So there's there's different ways you can heat things, okay? So one is by heating the air near something. This is how, you know, uh ovens work. Uh radiant heating by generating large amounts of uh IR.
+
+[21:17] That's how uh you know, infrared broilers work, French fry lamps work, the searchone uh by uh conduction, what we uh those things are all conduction in one way. Well, radiation's not, but the other one, the regular air oven actually is conduction mixed with convection. Well, I'm not gonna get into it. But one way you can generate oh the microwaves, right, where you're actually uh causing friction by vibrating the molecules on the inside of a uh on the inside of the food. That's an internal cooking technique.
+
+[21:43] Another way you can do it is to strap electrodes to something and pass a large amount of current through it, use the object itself as a resistor, and then uh use the resistance of the food itself to heat the food, right? And that's the that's the principle of uh ohmic, direct ohmic, you know, ohm, the unit of resistance, heating, resistance heating. Now, uh a lot of this has been tried in f and actually uh did I ever talk on the air stops about the electric chair for lobsters? Maybe. Well, there's this company in England that tried to make it uh uh an electric chair for lobsters to shock lobsters to instantly kind of stun slash kill them before you boil them, and it's two wet plates, and you pull the wet plates down and it's conductive and it and it like fries the lobster, but you need a very doesn't fry it it, it it it zorches its uh its uh nervous system.
+
+[22:29] But you have to use a pretty I mean I was using I tested it with kind of bad results because the carapace got bent in a weird way. I used regular uh you know uh sixty hertz um wall socket uh one twelve one ten voltage. Uh with mixed results. Uh I yeah, I didn't think it was any more humane and didn't make the lobster any more delicious than just cooking it and left scorch marks on the carapace. But um anyway, so this is a technique that was it was touted as a humane way to dispatch lobsters, and I I didn't have good luck.
+
+[22:57] But uh that said, Electro-stunning is a huge field uh in both large value fish like tuna, uh things like this, and waveform and uh the way the current is applied is extremely important in terms of how uh effective it is. But that that that aside, uh, yeah, this is an electric chair. So what they do is is you you you have two conductive plates, you you set the thickness of the plate with a spacer on the inside, you smash the thing down, it squishes the burger flat, right? And uh, and this is why you don't use salt, because presumably it changes the uh conductivity of the meat. And they like a specific fat content.
+
+[23:31] They say it's for uh juiciness, but I'm sure it's also to get a specific conductivity through the meat. You push it down, and from what I can gather on their pat on the kind of literature around it and some of the patents around it, it just passes a large electric current through it. I don't know, it's probably measuring yeah, how much uh load the burger is providing uh at the beginning versus the end, therefore judging doneness based, I guess on I don't know whether they're measuring denaturation or water loss or whatever, but it's like and done, and it literally heats the burger by zapping it with the electric current. That's an interesting idea. Yeah.
+
+[24:03] And the old models used to have a rare and a well-done knob, and they've removed it because it turns out that the they don't want you to actually mess with it, and it's it's in other words, the people who wanted rare burgers weren't buying the instant burger. It's the people that you know didn't want to think about things that were buying the instant burger to the extent that here's what the here's their bullet points of how awesome they are. Ready? No cooking oils needed, but you do need uh a hamburger that's uh you know 30% fat. Yeah, whatever.
+
+[24:30] Anyway, whatever. It's like one of those things. No extra cooking oil is the guess what they what they mean. I mean, I prefer a burger with more fat. Like that's one thing I don't like about the Whole Foods hamburger meat, is that they're like, it's 93% lean.
+
+[24:40] Yeah, definitely. And horrible. Yeah. Yeah. No offense, Whole Foods.
+
+[24:44] Uh normally no hood or venting needed because it's not on very all very long, right? Here's my favorite. No cooking skills needed. Sweet. Don't you want your hamburger styles made by someone with no cooking skills?
+
+[24:57] Don't worry. We make it in a way that it doesn't matter whether they give a crap or not. Really, it could be a machine pushing the button here and joy. Uh and cooks out calorie laden fat, but retains the delicious natural juices. That's just hocum.
+
+[25:11] That's just crap. Yeah, I don't buy that. I don't yeah, I don't buy that. Cooks out the calorie laden fat. Anyway, so I thought that was really uh an interesting an interesting thing.
+
+[25:20] Uh resistive hamburger cooker. Apparently it will also cook uh chicken breasts. As long as you anything you can squ squish flat between the two plates and get good conduction all the way through, you can cook and it cooks it very, very quickly. I'm anxious to try one uh at some point to see whether I like although if you smash a burger flat and cook the bejesus out of it, I don't really think it matters that much how you cook it. What does it do to the outside, do you know?
+
+[25:43] It looked brown on the website, but it's you know, it's hard to say, and I don't really know how much this thing costs. I mean, like I I like I I'm a fan of a bunch of different burgers. If you're gonna have a thin smash burger, it needs to have plenty of mocho grease, and then basically what you're saying is I like the flavor of a beef crust wallowing in grease with hamburger fixings on it, and maybe like a little bit of meat in the middle that's you know, still like kind of meat. Right? Is this true or false?
+
+[26:05] Am I wrong? Yeah. And if you like a thicker burger, it means you actually want some sort of like, you know, the the texture of like a lot of yeah, whatever. Uh I mean I see both I see both sides, but uh Nick Solaris, you know, hamburger guru, he likes a smash burger, I think, as as well does uh Josh Azersky, I think, believes. I think so, yeah.
+
+[26:22] Smash burger fan. Modernist cuisine, not so much. They like the they like the big poofy open like parallel string of meat. Parallel string of meat burger, yeah. Okay.
+
+[26:30] Okay, wait, should we take a break, Jack? I can't see the I can't see the clock behind the giant modernist cuisine volume. Okay, we're gonna take a break. Come back cooking issues. Hi, I'm Steve Jenkins from Fairway Markets.
+
+[26:51] You know, there's no more telling aspect, no more revealing virtue of a group of people having evolved in a lovely way than how they feed themselves, how they entertain, how they put food on the table, what they put on the table. Heritage Radio Network provides the clearest evidence that there's hope for us yet. Heritage Radio is like Fairway Market, and that we both care deeply about what you're having for dinner tonight. Heritage Radio Network is not just about food, though. Every time I tune in, I learn something about things other than food, too.
+
+[27:22] Architecture, design, stuff like that. But from where I stand, I still say if you can't eat it, what's the point? For more information, please visit Fairway Market.com. Did you know Heritage Radio Network.org is a member supported nonprofit organization. If you like what you're listening to, go to our website and click that donate button.
+
+[27:52] Become a member and get special discounts, invites, VIP treatment, t shirts, and more. Support us in our mission to bring you the freshest food content in the nation. And welcome back. Welcome back. Cooking issues.
+
+[28:07] By the way, uh Mark Ladner, good friend of ours, Mark Ladner, is doing for the Heritage Radio Network on April 27th. When is that? That's like a week and a half? Week and a half. Is doing an Abruzzi style Italian barbecue on Saturday, April 27th, between 6 and 9.
+
+[28:24] Where's it gonna be, Stas? You know? Is it gonna be here? Not sure. Not sure.
+
+[28:28] Anyway, Joe, you know where it is? I uh I'm gonna have to do some research, but I'll get back to you. But the beer's by Harpoon uh and the music is by Herbert Spiffling spliffling. Splifflington. I wonder whether he enjoys uh some of the herbal medicine.
+
+[28:45] No comment on that one. Uh and you can go to uh Italian BBQ.eventbrite.com to buy your tickets for $65. And you know what's worth the ticket price alone, people? Is uh if you go look at the image they have for it, it's it's this it's not Mark's whole face. It's just the special Ladner glasses.
+
+[29:02] The special Ladner glasses. Stas, what are your thoughts on the special Ladner glasses? You got getting a shake of the head. Uh getting a shake off. Pitcher is shaking off the Ladner glasses comment.
+
+[29:10] Yeah. Anyway. Okay. Uh by the way, you still time to call in your questions. 2718 4972128.
+
+[29:18] That's 714972128. Got a question in on soda bottles. Uh, Jeff Kanoff at Jeff2486 on the Twitter says, Any safety issue with reusing old soda bottles multiple times for the carbonation system that you outlined. What we're talking about is when I carbonate things, I use uh soda bottles. Usually I use 20 ounces for test batches.
+
+[29:38] I use one liters at the bar, one and a half and two liters for events where you know you're gonna pour a lot out. Uh soda bottles are made of uh P-E-T. Uh, right? P-E-T-E-P-A-B. What are those things?
+
+[29:48] One of those uh one of those things. And uh, you know, I use them multiple, multiple, multiple, multiple, multiple, multiple, multiple, multiple times. Uh and is there a safety issue? Uh, not that I'm aware. I mean, I don't believe that they have similar issues to uh PVC where you get uh not PVC, um Lexan related things where you get you cook it in the dishwasher and you get uh deter like detergents plus it plus heat equals the release of nasty chemicals.
+
+[30:15] I don't think that's the case. I think they're fairly neutral. I never put them in the dishwasher, I just do uh hot water soap rinses and let them dry out. Uh and I've I'm not aware of any safety issue. The reason I think a lot of times people don't want you to reuse it is kind of bacterial reasons, but you know, we're putting carbonated stuff in them and alcoholic stuff, and we're washing them very thoroughly in between, and all the time in between they're they're you know, they're either dry or they're in a fridge with alcoholic beverage that are carbonated, which are very bacteriostatic in terms of you could get yeast, but they're not pathogenes, so they're not gonna cause problems.
+
+[30:46] Uh not health problems anyway. And so, yeah, I'd say from that standpoint, it's safe. You want to make sure that you use uh I mean you could tell when they start to kind of go south on you, and certain newer bottles have uh like outer layers, I think that are laminated on for you know um gas barrier properties. Uh, but I'm not aware of any safety issues. If you use bottles that are not intended for carbonation, they can explode.
+
+[31:10] So for instance, if you uh use Fiji water with the goofy square bottles that you know, that made the millions of dollars, that goofy square bottle. But if you use the Fiji water with the with the goofy square bottle and you carbonate uh it can explode. I remember once, so I'm this kind of guy where um where I ask once, I ask twice, and then I just scream around and break and like break crap. This is true or false, does? Three times a lady though.
+
+[31:32] Three times a lady. Well, that's why it's why I only ever once got the lady. I only ever asked three times, you know, found my wife, got married, done. Right? No, but normally it's like I'm like, where's the bottle?
+
+[31:42] No response. Where's the bottle? No response. And then just grab the Fiji bottle, which is there, and I filled it full of coarse coffee, and I was carbonating it with nitrous to get the nitrous feet, you know, the n the nitrous oxide, which gives a creamy feel and brings body back to coffee without giving the that kind of uh uh that prickly sensation that you get out of carbon dioxide, and boom, it blows up and sprees coffee in like in you know, like poof, all around the room. So like I had a line painted across me of coffee, and there was a line all around the room, uh, in this tiny is before we were in the trash room styles.
+
+[32:20] For a while I was housed in a closet uh in the amphitheater. And uh so the entire closet in the amphitheater had uh this is back at the French culinary, had like a line of coffee around it that lasted years. They could never get that thing off. Maybe they repainted over it eventually. So the answer is is that they also if you heat uh bottles with very hot stuff, like if you're trying to do um like a gel, let's say you were trying to do a gel-an fluid gel, you need to carbonate it when it's very hot.
+
+[32:43] Aside from the problem that it's hard to get carbonation in things when they're hot because uh the hotter it is, the less the CO2 wants to go in there. Uh those bottles start loser losing their structural integrity somewhere, probably in the 70s or 80s Celsius, 80s, 90s in that range, they lose their structural integrity and they can start to balloon out on you, which could could be a safety issue because if it explodes when it's hot, it's spraying hot crap everywhere. It's doing more than ruining your jacket. But other than that, I mean like chemical safe. You heard anything, Ariel on saying?
+
+[33:12] I haven't heard any mishaps. Yeah, yeah. I don't think so. Yeah. But uh you want to make sure they're not very good gas barriers over the long haul.
+
+[33:23] So you don't want to uh store a carbonated beverage in it and think that it's gonna remain carbonated in perpetuity, right? Another problem uh with plastics in general, now uh these plastic bottles are designed not to do it too much. I mean they're they're chosen not to do this, but like the plastics can um do what's called scalp flavors. So especially if you have oil based flavors that are in there or anything that has kind of a hydrophobic component on it, that can absorb into the plastic, then the plastic can take on a smell, which then gets transferred to your next batch, and also it can it can remove enough flavor from things. It's called scalping, flavor scalping, that you uh alter the flavor of your product by the absorption on it.
+
+[34:00] And like you get this especially in sodas, you'll notice when like low quality sodas with high levels of s suspended oils in them, grape uh um orange, you'll see the bottles are actually discolored, which is why and also things like root beers tend to leave aromas in the bottle that are hard to get out, which is why when I'm carbonating, I prefer to buy seltzer bottles because they come neutral. Yeah, just for what it's worth, which is probably nothing. Uh okay. Uh next question in. From Winehacker on liquid nitrogen from Mooth.
+
+[34:32] Hello, Dave. Nastasha, Jack, and Joe. They he didn't know you you were gonna be here. That's okay. Yeah, okay.
+
+[34:36] Uh love the show almost through all the back episodes. Now that uh I have that out of the way, I have a couple of questions. I sent Nastasha an email a couple of weeks ago with some questions about the general use of LN in a bar time environment. She seems to have ignored it, which is fine. Well well, wine hacker.
+
+[34:52] Your name is Wine Hacker. So my email recognizes you as spam. Wow. Because you decided to name yourself wine hacker. So I found it buried in nine hundred other spam emails.
+
+[35:07] Wow. Wow. See, this is why we call her the hammer. Like now, you know, wine wine hacker, you're getting you're getting a little taste. He just got schooled.
+
+[35:14] Well this is very instructive. I want people to get a little taste of what it's like uh when she's not on the air. Like that's like a little little like peer like peek through the veil of what it can be like. Anyway, uh WineHacker moderated the comments with she seems to have ignored it, which is fine. I often ignore myself too.
+
+[35:31] Which is very good. Like self-deprecation. Since we are closer to the date of our event I also have some questions about vermouth. Sorry to have so many questions at once. I hope you can uh feel free to to uh break the answer into parts so I don't dominate the show whatever I'm just gonna do it.
+
+[35:42] Ready? Go do it. The winery where I work is a union wine company in the Willemette Valley, Oregon. You know familiar with those people, Ariel? I've heard of them.
+
+[35:49] Yeah? Good things? Uh yeah, yeah. I've I've never tried their stuff, but I've heard of them. Alright.
+
+[35:53] Uh we'll be having an event in a couple of weeks. The theme is uh speakeasy. Go ahead and make fun of us for uh being so original i.e. not original the energy uh I only have a certain amount of energy. Do you have energy to make fun of speakeasies?
+
+[36:06] She's all tapped out she's still tapped out with the anger for being called out on air that she has no more you know anger to make fun of what? You should be happy that I'm tapped out with you for the whole day? Well I don't I don't know about that. You'll be you'll you know you'll get a diet Dr. Pepper no Dr.
+
+[36:20] Pepper I drink the whatever don't get me started. Okay. Uh once she gets some caffeine after the show she'll get her anger back. Don't worry. Um we're gonna move things around in the cellar set up a bar rent some furniture and other era appropriate props to fit the theme.
+
+[36:31] Uh when I began to think about drinks we might serve in addition to our wines I immediately thought about a podcast a couple of weeks ago and decided to make our own vermouth. We will probably try to keep things fairly simple and offer two drinks. Manhattan and martini are probably front runners, they're delicious. Uh partially since uh they both use vermouth, uh though I will need to make a red and a white vermouth. Uh anyway, one thing I'm thinking about using is liquid nitrogen.
+
+[36:54] Uh so like what like let's do the um let's do the vermouth section first because he's about to go into liquid nitrogen, but then we go back to vermouth. In terms of vermouth, we started looking uh at commercial examples, trying to find a couple of benchmarks. We looked at four examples Carpano Antica, Dolan Rosso, Dolan Blanc, Blanc Blank, blank, uh Dolan Blanc and uh in Bue, an Oregon-made product. The Carpano stood out above everything else, though we like some of the herbal aromatics of the Dolan Rosso. The Dolan Blanc was very nice, though seemingly relic uh relatively simple compared to the other three.
+
+[37:21] The Imbu had very interesting aromatics, probably using pine fur or something similar. Are there any other commercial examples you suggest we look at? Uh currently I think we will try to make a sweeter red and a drier white. Uh well before I get into the other things that you write, uh yeah. Uh I would look at um martelletti.
+
+[37:37] So martelletti is uh, you know, I had it first maybe three three years ago, three, four years ago, I started coming into New York as far as I can tell. And uh it's very, very good, uh completely different um mouthfeel, thinner mouthfeel, and different kind of aromatic setup from uh carpano, uh and not played out yet, which is good. You know what I mean? Like it's it's like people know about it, but not a ton of people know about it, so you can still be kind of the first kid on your block to have it, as far as I know. It's good.
+
+[38:08] Uh you know, you uh uh made by the Carpano people, uh Punta Mes is you know, try that out. Uh and then on the white side, I guess classic, you know, you should try Noy Pratt, but you know, I I don't use it much. I actually use Dolan quite a lot for my for my white. I like the Dolan uh Blanc and the there's Dolan Dry. I actually and I like the their sweeter one better, the Blanc.
+
+[38:28] I tend to tend to use it more than I do the dry, but not from Martinis. Do you know what I mean? Yeah. Uh although bear in mind that uh the sweet vermouth that you usually put in Manhattan's is made from white wine. Oh, yeah, he mentions it.
+
+[38:41] Well, no, it's red and white only because of the coloring the ad, not because it's red and white wine. Burr is the only one I think that I know of that's made is the only aperitif wine that actually starts from a red. Well the Dull and Rosso might actually be from a red wine. Really? But there's a dull and sweet that I think is just dull and sweet white or the dull and sweet.
+
+[38:56] There's as far as I know, there's the rosso, the sweet white, and the the dry. But I think the sweet white's closer to a regular sweet vermouth. Yeah, I like it actually. I like that product. But anyway, um other thing I would look, I would go beyond strictly speaking, vermousse, and I would go into other uh aperitif wines like uh for instance cookie americano.
+
+[39:14] That's a good one. Uh or if you want something a little on the kind of more mainstream, I guess Lila, or like Bonal Quinquina. Yeah, all that stuff's good. So, like, you know, go and and by the way, good websites for the uh well, I'll go into what you say. So here's a s here's a summary.
+
+[39:27] This is wine hacker. Here's a summary of what I think I know about the manufacturing of vermouth. Base wine is nearly always white, sometimes very neutral, sometimes an aromatic variety. Muscat for example. Sometimes it is purpose purposefully aged and oxidized, sometimes not.
+
+[39:38] I'll add also that they often use a wine where they purposely stop fermentation by redoping it, uh by doping with alcohol before they right? Yeah, yeah, like port. Yeah, so not the same as port, but like a mistel, right? Yeah, yeah. Okay.
+
+[39:50] Uh wormwood, uh chinchona bark, and gentian are the major sources of bittering. Can be. Yeah. Uh right, true. Uh botanicals are extracted in alcohol, dilute alcohol, wine or fortified wine, sometimes uh times vary from hours to months.
+
+[40:02] True. Or cooking, too. Yeah, cooking, yeah. Well, yeah, it's right. Yeah.
+
+[40:06] Like heat. Right, heat, right, sure. Yeah. Uh sometimes extractions are distilled or steam distilled. Of course, that would just be adding a distilled stuff.
+
+[40:11] Is that true? Adding essential oils if you're distilling. Sure, that's fancy way of saying that. Sure. Yeah.
+
+[40:17] I mean, his the could be her, a wine hacker. Sounds like a guy, though. I think it's caramel. Yeah. Uh caramel can be added for coloring.
+
+[40:24] Uh, juice or sugar can also be used. It depends on the uh standard of identity, right? What kinds of juices can be added? I think so. Yeah, I think you have to add grape sugar and or cane sugar, right?
+
+[40:29] No other look at it. Um total sugar is around four percent for dry and between ten and fifteen for sweet. Uh final wine must be at least seventy five percent wine, the other twenty-five consisting of sugar, alcohol, and water. Anything else that anything else uh missing there? No, I mean that sounds about right.
+
+[40:49] Yeah. By the way, remember vermouth uh is an acidic ingredient. So a lot of times and sugar. So people add things that are like, Manhattan doesn't really have any sugar or um or acid. I'm like, you're wrong.
+
+[41:00] No, that's that's BS. Yeah, it's wrong. Yeah. Uh okay. Uh I'm looking at a wine range of herbs and flavors.
+
+[41:05] I'm having trouble with color right now. There are three herbs I've found for coloring. Red sandalwood, another seed, and rosebuds. However, I think I need something more. The color is not uh a dark enough red.
+
+[41:14] It's a bit too much like an orange colored rose. I don't want to use more sandalwood because it gives too much woody flavor. Hell yes, it does. Sandalwood. Hell yeah.
+
+[41:21] Uh Anados to orange. I may have to cheat in that a few percent red wine or perhaps uh find the sandwood extracts. Any suggestions are appreciated. Can you buy cochineal here? I'm not sure.
+
+[41:30] I mean, would you want something that red? That's hardcore red. Well, I mean I would focus on the flavor more than the color. Yeah, I mean, because the reds are usually actually more brown. Yeah, so burnt number.
+
+[41:41] Yeah. Right. So like, you know, caramel classic old school caramel color. Yeah, yeah, yeah. But if you can buy coachine eal, that's mean like it's pretty badass.
+
+[41:48] I don't know if is it is there an FDA against that? Are we okay? Is that grass here? I don't know. I don't know.
+
+[41:55] You know, cochineal, crushed up a K A, crushed up bugs. Uh yeah, oh you know, or you could also, I mean, if you wanted to, you could use an anthocyanin that's read at the at the at those pHs, but they're not stable. So unless you're not gonna use it right away, you know, they're not time stable, they're not heat stable, and they're not light stable. Um you know, that that's been my experience with them. Anyway, uh any suggestions are appreciated.
+
+[42:16] Okay. Also, how may one sponsor your radio show? Joe, any ideas on that one? That would be send an email to info at heritage radio network.org. And also um the Abruzie Barbecue is going to be at the Heritage Warehouse, which is right around the corner from uh Roberta's.
+
+[42:34] So that's my info. Yeah. But go ahead and get it get yourself a uh your hands on the uh Martelletti and try that and try those other ones. And try Coke Americano. We use a boatload of Coke Americano at the bar.
+
+[42:44] Delicious. Yeah, I love Coke. Yeah, Cokey is good stuff and an awesome name, Coke. Coke Americano. That and Corpse Revivor is a good idea.
+
+[42:50] Yeah, Coke. Fantastic. Um and go to these websites. Go to Vermouth 101, which is run by uh Martin Duderoff, uh you know, a good fellow. Uh uh interesting site that points you to a lot of things.
+
+[43:00] And I don't own it, but uh, you know, I know Jared Brown and uh Anastasia Miller, and they wrote a book called The Mixalini Guide to Vermouth and other uh Paratis. And uh I haven't read the book, but I know them personally, and so you should go take a look uh take a look at that. It's available on the Amazon and at Kindle, so you do not even have to wait for it to show up at your door. Uh in case because Amazon only had a couple copies as as of this morning. Um But anything else uh about uh Vermouth that you learned from your study of bitters, Ariel?
+
+[43:29] Well, not so much from the bitters, but um in the like V and E section of the UC Davis library, there's a bunch of copies of uh Maider and Amory's like wine production and technology, and that has a pretty good section on Vermouth. Is that when is that from? There's editions dating back to like the 50s and 60s, like through the 80s. It's not public rec you know, there's none of its public record. Can you Google book that thing?
+
+[43:48] I'd have to look into it. Give me the title one more time. Yeah, um well, Maynard Amory, I think it's wine technology and production, but um I could email you an actual like library entry. Sounds good. But I mean, like over uh there might be uh um I know there's a lot of like community colleges around there that teach winemaking, so they could have sure library stuff.
+
+[44:07] Well, I mean he's he's at a winery, I'm sure he's like yeah, yeah. Okay. So anyway, uh the other thing is uh I'm thinking about using liquid nitrogen to chill the glasses and maybe for nitro modeling. I've read your primer on liquid nitrogen, uh we have two uh large 250 liter deweries around the w uh doers around the winery. So uh doer is what you hold liquid nitrogen in.
+
+[44:24] Actually, anything you put that stuff's in to do her, but usually when we say doer, we mean the big doers. They store the nitrogen under pressure roughly, I think 20 pounds of uh PSI, depending on what size doer you have. The larger 240s, uh and I don't know, two fifties. We have two forties. They you know they store it at slightly higher pressure, but anyway, that's where it is.
+
+[44:41] So I will make a phase separator as you show by the way. So the phase separator is uh it's just a muffler. It's like a centered brass muffler that you put on the end of a tube and it lets you take stuff off of the liquid nitrogen tank, otherwise it sprays everywhere. Be aware that on the largers on the two forties that I've used, they don't come out as smoothly as they come out of the one eighties and the one sixties. Uh and you can get a little bit of a choo-choo train chugga chugga chug of resonance on some of those things, and I think it has to do with the pressure it comes out of.
+
+[45:07] Uh so you might be able to adjust the length of the uh extract tube to pull it out of to stop it, but we were having resonance issues on uh on a 240 when we had it, and it was like it was like chugging like a choo-choo train. We've still got the LN out, and it's not as violent as trying to take it out at pressure, but it wasn't uh as efficient as it was out of the 180s and the 160s, just a little no to benefit. Um I know okay, my c my questions are about uh safety in a bar type environment. I know how to work safely in a cellar, but not at a bar. Uh you still use do you still use air pods to hold the liquid nitrogen, or you do you suggest purchasing an insulated doer flask?
+
+[45:40] Uh do you remove the internal dip tube from the airpods, airPods are the coffee things. Uh or can this be used to dispense the uh LN? Seems like the AirPod is not really a closed system, but I'm unsure. If removed, how do you safely dispen uh dispense the LN? Uh does not seem like an AirPod pours very safely.
+
+[45:56] Any other tips? Okay, here's here's what I'm gonna say about this. We don't I don't I don't use AirPods anymore. I used to use AirPods, uh, the coffee ones with the lids on top. Uh and I used to try to use the little uh dispensing unit.
+
+[46:07] They aren't sealed. However, the plastic in them can seize up, you can get condensation, and then I've never had one get in a situation that's unsafe. You can always see that they're venting off, but I've gotten it where they no longer dispense properly. And it's true, those ones with the pour tops are very difficult to get to to close. At the bar, we use carafts, like thermal uh coffee crafts and camping thermoses.
+
+[46:31] We buy them from REI because they have a guarantee. And I walked up to the dude at the counter at REI, I'm like, this sucker's got a guarantee. He said, Yes. I was like, I'm putting liquid nitrogen in it. This thing has a guarantee.
+
+[46:42] Yes. I was like, so so when it breaks, I can bring it back to you? Yes. I was like, okay. So uh that's sweet, right?
+
+[46:49] So anyway, so I have the liquid nitrogen, and uh what we do is we own one at the bar five-liter uh five-liter doer, like legit doer. And then we empty uh, we we fill the five-liter doer for service, bring it back behind the bar, and then use that to fill the thermoses. You don't get that much loss out of a thermos, and in a bar situation, you're using it so fast and so much that it you don't get that much of an advantage out of capping it. Because remember, when it you're not using it, you get a layer of nitrogen vapor above it that provides some insulation, and so you're not getting a huge amount of loss because it's got a very thin uh, you know, it's got a very small, narrow opening at the top, and uh those things pour quite well as opposed to the airpods, which have all that weird nonsense in between the pore spout and you because you're not meant to pour out other than you're meant to push a button and have it dispense. So I would move away from the push-button dispensers and move towards coffee thermoses, things like this.
+
+[47:42] However, throw away anything that allows you to seal it. Let me speak to you again. Let me say this one more time. Throw away, don't just like unless you take it to your house or something like this, do not ever put yourself in a situation where anyone under any circumstances for any reason can make a mistake and screw a sealing lid onto a thermos. I need that I need you to I need you to listen to me on this one.
+
+[48:06] This is uh what caused uh the poor German uh cook in uh in one Germany uh to, you know, years ago to almost die and to lose, I believe he lost like one hand, all of one hand, almost all the rest of his hand, and I believe one of his legs, and he had to be put in a medical, medically induced coma because he brought to his girlfriend's house liquid nitrogen in a sealed thermos. Never, never make it even a remote possibility that that could ever happen, right? No, you're making a bum when you do that. Yeah, yeah. But you know, but the thing is that I've run into this too, and the older I get, the more I you know realize this, especially when I'm working with other people, is that uh there's a difference between knowing how to not make something unsafe yourself and guaranteeing that no one else can make it unsafe, right?
+
+[48:52] And you want to guarantee that nobody out there can seal up that uh that container. Um also I think you know, in light of what happened to the poor person in uh in England, I think whenever you're bringing liquid nitrogen into a bar, you need to do a lot of safety training. And that safety training is one, you know, telling people about the eyes, your eyes, keeping away from the customer, explaining ways in which it, you know, it's showing how it can be safe, showing how things that they think maybe are unsafe, like getting a little bit on your skin is not unsafe, uh at the same time reinforcing all the horrible things that can happen. So, you know, making sure they understand how vitally important it is that liquid nitrogen never, in no cryogen ever be served, including dry ice, ever be served to a customer in its native state. It's very easy to know that all your liquid nitrogen is gone out of your drink before you serve it.
+
+[49:42] If it's smoking, it's it's no good to serve to your to your customer. I mean, it's uh, you know, hammer that stuff home. Uh hammer home that keep keep the cryogens away from the customer, not just in service, but you know, throw the throw the extra extra liquid nitrogen down and behind you. You know, um be careful. Let people know that it's real.
+
+[50:00] Let people know that people have gotten hurt when rules haven't been followed. Let them know uh, you know, let them know read read to them the stories of that of that poor girl who had her stomach removed. Read to them the stories about the German who who you know almost killed himself. Um, you know, follow basic safety rules. Never let them pour it above their heads.
+
+[50:19] Never, you know, you know, make sure that they don't have a situation where they can pour it into their pockets or get it caught inside of their clothing. Just like, you know, reinforce um, you know, read the primer, read other people's primers, reinforce safety like that. The most important thing you can do when you're training new people is to engender in them a healthy respect for the bad things that can happen. Um I mean it just it just it bears repeating, and a lot of times people think, you know, uh it's a gimmick, you shouldn't bring in. Lots of things are dangerous.
+
+[50:48] We're just trained to know they're dangerous. We know knives are dangerous, we know deep fryers are dangerous. You don't necessarily understand how or why liquid nitrogen is uh is dangerous. Um, also if you're dealing in small quantities in a bar, you don't need to get that much into asphyxiation, but you need to make sure a lot of people still they'll bring large amounts of liquid nitrogen into elevators. They'll they'll carry them up stairwells, they'll do all sorts of like awful, awful things with liquid nitrogen that most of the time won't get you killed, but then there's that time when it will.
+
+[51:15] You know? Uh so just look into it. Is that is that what do you think? Is that good? Good?
+
+[51:20] Yeah, yeah, yeah. Uh okay. So uh interesting question in. Got a really interesting one. What time is it?
+
+[51:27] Ah, all right, I'm holding. So I got a I got a good question here, and hopefully I can finish it. Mark writes in he was wrote about nanoparticles before. Uh do you know anything about nanoparticles, by the way? I don't know anything about it.
+
+[51:39] It was brought to my attention the safety of nanoparticles by by Mark recently. I mean, there are some concerns because they can like breach certain barriers, but are they like too large to be dealt with the way that like regular sized particles are by the immune system. Yeah, but it's like but the the messed up thing is is that our ability to produce different ones is outstripped our our our testing of them. Oh, yeah. Oh yeah.
+
+[51:59] Well, crazy. We've got a few great shows on nanoparticles if you search our archives. Uh Katie Kiefer on straight no chaser has done quite a few episodes. Does she enjoy the nanoparticle? I don't know.
+
+[52:12] Yeah, fan or faux. Fan or faux. I think you're a fan of the potential. All right. So anyway, thanks for fueling my question.
+
+[52:19] This is Mark Reddingham. Thanks for fielding my question on nanoparticles. I now have a question that's a bit more technical. I like that it's more technical than nanoparticles. Uh I've been working on making Vietnamese rice noodles using the basic recipe in Charles Fan's book, also available on Epicurious.com.
+
+[52:32] Charles Fan, the uh the chef at slanted uh slanted door in uh right, that's the name of his restaurant, right? In uh D. Yeah, in the ferry building in San Francisco. Yeah, San Francisco. Um I've made some delicious batches for snacking and staff meal, but they are too short and stick to each other too much to actually serve.
+
+[52:49] After experimenting for a few days, I think that the dough is fine, but the potato rice that I'm using back to potato ricers, and by the way, this like after I had the nightmare I read about this. How awful is that? Uh, isn't strong enough tool for a harder dough like this and uh doesn't make it look pretty. Do you have any suggestions about hacking a potato ricer to get more force or a different kind of tool that could do the same thing or any general advice about making this kind of noodle? Thanks, Mark.
+
+[53:14] Okay. So, first of all, to get an idea of what this looks like, uh I went to uh Andrea and Wynn's website, uh Vietworld Kitchen.com uh to look, she reviewed uh fans' recipe and also had a video of doing it. She also has what looks like a really cool cookbook that I don't have called Asian Tofu that I now think I need to buy because you know I all of my tofu stuff comes from like the million years old shirtleaf uh you know book on tofu and miso. I told you I called that guy one day, right? Really?
+
+[53:42] Yeah, he picked up the phone. I was like, Can you make can you make tofu from Edam? He's like, that's a horrible waste of human resources in life. I'm like, oh my god, sorry. But uh anyway, so I'm I'm anxious to uh eventually what I'm gonna when I'm allowed to buy books again.
+
+[53:56] When I move my apartment, I'm gonna be allowed to buy books again, and I'm gonna I'll buy that book. Okay. Um anyway, she has a video of it, and the dough is indeed stiff. Uh look, I think all of these noodles and many noodle tricks in general, and also dragon's beard uh and all this are really just exercises in uh in in water control, right? So like adding a little bit more water can make a huge change in the reality of your dough.
+
+[54:22] And so I would say that you could probably look the way that these doughs are made is that the way this dough is made, for those of you who don't know what the heck we're talking about, is you take rice, uh ground rice in this case, uh, and you and you soak it sometimes up to four days to let it ferment a little bit. And on the blog, they let you they show you different things. You then pour off some of the soaking water and then uh add fresh water, cook it, right? Now you're cooking out a good portion of the starch, right? That's providing the structure for the dough.
+
+[54:49] So when you're using when you have uh a dough that doesn't have its own natural glutens, right, like rice, one of the ways to get structure into it is to cook a portion of the starch before you make the noodles, and that gives you some structure so that it's not just breaking apart and turning into nothing. That's allowing you to form noodles, right? Um another way to do it that you see on if you look on the on the web to make rice noodles is people will pour a thin layer crepe style into a steamer uh with a lot of oil. In fact, I saw a really cool video on it. Um, and see if I can find uh the name of the person that I looked it up, uh, on on uh eat now, cry later, how to make fresh rice noodles.
+
+[55:26] Uh and she paints, she paints oil and builds them up layer by layer in a steamer and then and then peels them apart afterwards so that you don't have to peel off each one individually. And that's pretty cool. So that's one way. But this other technique is the way also you make dunk dumpling wrappers a lot, is you pre-cook some, and also shoe pastry. You pre-cook some of it to give structure, although shoe pastry is different because, well, you're retarding the gluten because you have a lot of fat and uh egg in it, but then you pre-cook it to give it structure.
+
+[55:52] Whatever. So back to where I was. So the the point is is that then you're pre-cooking it, and then you're adding uh he adds tapioca back, but some people don't, they add more rice, but tapioca's gonna give it a springier texture. You control the water level of it, then you extrude it into boiling water and you form the noodle. Uh so you want to be very careful to have enough water.
+
+[56:11] I would add more water so you can get out of a potato ricer, or I would move to a higher tech uh higher force style situation. So KitchenAid now makes a pasta extruding attachment that actually apparently works. It's $150. I used to have their pasta making attachment for the meat grinder, and it was a little bit less than useless. I don't know if you've ever used that one.
+
+[56:30] Yeah, it's useless. I mean, like the reason it's useless, it's it's worse than nothing because it makes you think you can do something, and it's just horrible. But apparently the new one, new one works. But there is a style of noodle in the south of India that they make with rice, and they actually use a really bizarre method where they fully cook dumpling dough. They make the dough, they do the soaking, they grind it wet, make a dough, cook it in a pan, then form it, then boil the dumplings, then take the hot dumplings and extrude them through an extruder, through a noodle extruder.
+
+[57:01] But uh they make uh noodle presses for that that you can get at um Indian stores, um call it Savai, Savai Press. I don't know how you pronounce it, but I think Savai Press. But really interesting stuff there, and I I hadn't known about that. But one thing I did know about is they make something and I'm gonna mispronounce it called a chocolate press. Those are the fried uh Indian fried like doll uh noodles, doll and flour rice, I think rice or whatever, flour noodles that you extrude through an extruder and fry, and they look like uh like a screw, like a cookie press, but like brass and long.
+
+[57:31] And those things would work for this because they have screw pressure in it, so you can screw the sucker down and extrude it out. So I would do that. I would A, try to make uh a looser dough, and I would B try to use one of these screw things that you can get at a at an Indian uh like an Indian shop. Now, that said, uh reading about this, I went ape loony, right? And started doing, and I my entire morning was shot because I was I was looking looking stuff up, and uh I'll give you a couple things.
+
+[57:58] There's a guy, and this is how you find it. You look up my notes are holy crap. What you look up is making rice noodles chonking China, okay? And there's a Google, there's a YouTube, and here's what this guy does. You guys familiar with Oblek?
+
+[58:13] Oblek? Yeah, the like cornstarch water. Yeah, yeah. Yeah. So like a non-Newtonian fluid is a fluid that doesn't act where where the where you know the the um the viscosity of it changes markedly depending on whether or not it's being agitated, right?
+
+[58:28] Non-Newtonian fluid. So you know a lot of things are what's called shear thinning. So the harder you stir them the uh and the more force you apply to them the more liquid they get which makes sense because you know the things that form a mat you hit them hard enough and the the strands align and all of a sudden it becomes easier to shear through them sheer thinning. Well there are things that the harder you work them the more uh difficult they are an ooblek is one of them and ublek is made out of cornstarch and water and you can go online and see these guys uh there's a that there's a video called uh you know people running on a pool of ooblek and it's yeah it's awesome people running across like literally running across it like walking on water and then stopping and sinking into it and it's like chest deep it's strong it's like quicksand yeah it's strong yeah it's good um but this guy this guy in uh chonking China and I've no idea he made some form of ooblek noodle noodle thing so he has what amounts to just a strainer that he's holding in in his hand right and he scoops out of a bucket handfuls of dough that appear to be a solid scoops them up throws them into the strainer, and then at the bottom, where there's no force on them, they're straining out like a liquid. And he does that a bunch of times until it looks like it's what he wants it, and then he holds the oblek over the water into boiling water and makes noodles that he then cooks for a couple of seconds, scoops out, and then throws them into the thing.
+
+[59:47] I was like, oh my god, hence my notes. No leak holy crap. Holy crap. Uh and you know, further on this, I kept and then I was like, I got back on the noodle thing and I was looking at it. You know, Chef Tom out in California, who's uh with the what currently is the the International Culinary Center out there in uh near San Jose.
+
+[1:00:06] Uh, you know, he did a video on hand pulled noodles, and I went to go look because I got I don't know, I somehow I got back in a hand pulled noodles. Every once in a while I get back, I've never gotten good at it, by the way. But I've noticed there's two varieties of the hand pulled noodles. So most of the times like when it's attempted in English speaking uh posts on the internet, the hand pulled noodle style is one where the first step is to completely destroy, completely obliterate the gluten structure by overneating the hell out of it, right? And if you want to know about this, by the way, it's another thing I do yourself a favor.
+
+[1:00:34] If you're at all interested in how uh wheat scientists measure doughs, and you don't have access to like the expensive books, and you don't want to go like you know, try to like go on Google Books and read all of Hosney's stuff by like pasting and cutting between all of uh the different books, like you know, serial science and all that. Go go look at HTTP W.org. And wheatflowerbook.org has all of the things of how wheat is rated by uh cereal chemists when it comes in and how things are done. And for instance, they say a sample of wheat is considered infested if it contains, and this is this is strikes me as very odd, right? A sample of wheat is infested if it contains one, two or more live weevils, right?
+
+[1:01:18] Two, one live weevil and one other live insect injuries injurious to stored grain, right? Or three, two or more live insects who are injurious to stored grain other than live weevils. That's dumb. Any two insects, they don't care. They don't care.
+
+[1:01:34] They're like, it can be two weevils or a weevil and another insect or two insects. What's the sample size for that? Like per kilo? I don't know. Is is a weevil, maybe maybe a weevil's not an insect.
+
+[1:01:46] Maybe it's technically something else. I don't know, maybe. It's not an insect. I mean, I know it's a it's a bug. Yeah, it's a bug.
+
+[1:01:52] Yeah, it's a bug, but maybe it's not actually like an insect from a technical standpoint. So that's why they have to. Eight legs or something. They should put one thing would have been sufficient. Any combination of two or more live insect or weeviloid things.
+
+[1:02:05] It it counts as infested. So here's another one. Definition of light smutty wheat. Wheat in a 250 gram portion that has an unmistakable odor of smut or which contains smut balls, portions of smut balls or spores of smut. In excess of a quantity equal to five smut balls, but not an excess of quantity equal to 30 smut balls of average size.
+
+[1:02:25] Is light smutty wheat. I think average size smut ball is going to be my next band name. Right? Right? Check this out.
+
+[1:02:31] Check this out. Here's one more for you from this awesome, awesome book. At the end of the book, there are standards from the American Association of Cereal Serial Chemists of recipes with which to test flowers. So like when they're like, they have like the standard sugar snap uh sugar snap cookie. They have ginger or whatever.
+
+[1:02:47] They have like the standard, and they also have something called the Asian noodle texture test. And it literally is like you line up cooked noodles and they have a plastic tooth that pushes down into it, right? And a sample of five noodle strands are randomly selected into cut into seven centimeter pieces. The five noodle pieces are laid side by side on the TX TA dot XT2 textured analyzer instrument platform. A two-bite compression test is performed using a special plastic tooth.
+
+[1:03:14] Compression is performed to 70% of noodle thickness and then released and then redone again. And it's like literally they have an Asian noodle texture test. This document is and and why it's important. Noodle texture is an important quality characteristic. Oh really?
+
+[1:03:29] I I had no concept. This book is available for free people. This is free. Like this is like this is what um I'm being told that I have to leave. Hold on a second.
+
+[1:03:39] Before I before I before I uh leave, so go check out the wheat uh wheat flower book.org. Uh and I found that because I had to look up, you know, they have like one of the one of the tests they use is they make uh they make a disc of dough and they inflate a bubble into it to see how it extends, right? It's called an alveolograph. Like alveolar in your lungs. Yeah.
+
+[1:03:57] And so I read that in the uh in uh Paula Paula Figoni's book, How uh Baking Works, Exploring the Fundamentals of Baking Science, which I hear is really good, but I don't own a hard copy of. Another one that I need to go buy a copy of. Uh anywho, so the the the end of the story is uh that I was looking up uh I've as usual, it all ends up back in hand pulled noodles. And I was noticing that the because hand pulled noodles are are interesting because you have they have to pull, they have to have extraordinarily long extension, right, without snapping. So you would think very low, low gluten or you know, a weak gluten flour so that they won't snap back, right?
+
+[1:04:32] Right? Yeah, yeah. So it seems to me that there's two main uh ways that it's done. So if you look at like the ones that are done in English, they put things typically in a mixer and they just destroy the gluten, obliterate it, wipe it out, the same way that you do for beaten biscuits, which is something that I can make properly, right? Gluten is just obliterated by over mixing.
+
+[1:04:48] Then you have the ones and and those ones, when you're looking at them hand pulling the noodles, they pull slowly and but you know, quick, you know, not slowly, but like kind of evenly, and they just pull it across, and you can see that the noodles like almost want to pull themselves in into noodle shape, right? And then you look at the ones with no speaking that are done most of the time in Asia, uh, where it's just some guy on the street doing it. And those guys have an entirely different technique. Like the end section of their kneading, right? First they do the tearing and ripping and destroying it, and you can tell that they're they're putting water in, they're doing water control.
+
+[1:05:23] Same way as SOBA, let's like proper soba manufacture, all about water control. Well, back to water control. And you can see them when they get the texture right, but then their final kneading process is a stretching, aligning, and rolling, where they're actually looks like they're aligning. And after they start doing that, they never again go cross or rotate. They're always just you know, just torsion and stretch back, torsion stretch, and then cut off little pieces, and they're always going in the same thing.
+
+[1:05:47] And those guys, right? Those guys, when they're pulling the noodles, it's like slap a rap dapa, slap that, that and they're pulling hard, right? And they're slapping the noodle around, which means that that sucker must have more structure. Now, the ones that I've tried to learn from have always been the Western style ones, and those are premised on the fact that there's no internal structure, one way or the other. They just beat the crap out of them.
+
+[1:06:09] And I've always found that most of those noodles don't have a lot of bite. My question is to everyone out there who's tried it is there a fundamental and qualitative difference between the slap a wrap dap and the beat the hell out of hand pulled noodles? I have no idea. Cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on heritage radio network.org.
+
+[1:06:35] You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes Store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Underground Meats, an American producer of handcrafted salami and cured meats in Madison, Wisconsin. For more information, visit shop.undergroundfoodcollective.org or stop by their butcher shop in Madison, Wisconsin. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit heritageradionetwork.org for thousands more. Cooking issues!
+
+[1:03] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Users coming to you live from Alberta's Pizzeria in Bushwig Brooklyn. Joining you in the studio with, as always, Mustafa the Hammer Lopez, Jack and Joe in the engineering booth, and special guests. First, of course, Piper. Piper from Booker and Dags Lab High Piper.
+
+[1:19] Hi. How are you doing? And Mark Ladner from Del Fosto! Good afternoon, Dave. How are you doing?
+
+[1:27] I'm doing great. How are you? Alright, I'm gonna make you actually say stuff on air. Dave, you want to get close to the mic there? Who?
+
+[1:33] Dave. Well, I was told not to yell into the mic by one of our listeners. You gotta get closer. I was told not to yell into the I was told not to yell into the mic by one of our listeners. Alright.
+
+[1:43] So, uh So first and foremost, I'm gonna make uh Mark. Oh, by the way. Call in your questions to any of us, including Mark, for all of your Mark Ladner style questions. Two 27184972128. That's 7184972128.
+
+[1:57] Mark, uh, you're ostensibly here to uh to uh give plugs for your uh barbecue thing you're doing here, right? Why don't you talk about it for a second? Yeah, I came to uh review with Erin and Patrick some of the logistics for this uh small get-together we're having on Saturday morning at uh the Heritage Warehouse, which is on this same block. So uh yeah, I'm gonna head over there afterwards and check on my grill, make sure everything's are there stu uh are there stuff that's gonna come, you're gonna bring your kids, Dave? Uh what when is it?
+
+[2:27] Uh Saturday evening. This Saturday evening? I would I would love to. I would love to, but someone's gonna have to come take my place because I will be flying to Senegal. Okay.
+
+[2:36] Oh wow. Yeah. Um I'm taking a uh trip uh that uh is being organized by uh our good buddy from uh you know the Grand Descartes restaurant, Pierre Tiam, who has an excellent Senegalese cookbook called Yolele. Uh and you might have seen him on the Iron Chief. He was on the Iron Chief at one point.
+
+[2:51] Yeah. Yeah, I know. Yeah. Have you uh you're expecting a pretty exotic experience out there? Well, I mean, uh the whole point of these trips, it's supposed to be a series of trips uh that chefs are taking, you know, American chefs are taking to Africa with a two with a two-part, a two-pronged kind of goal.
+
+[3:08] One, we get to steal ideas and ingredients and bring th bring them back here, right? Uh and two, uh people over there, uh the the hope is is that locally they'll say, Oh, when people come visit our country, what they really want to see is authentic real deal stuff. They don't want to see uh some sort of BS fake French or some sort of you know Western garbage that there's that there's inherent value in doing um you know very good presentations of uh local ingredients. Indigenous cultures. Yeah, because you know, and it's the same thing in you know most places when you know when I know you're the same way.
+
+[3:43] When you travel, you you know, what do you got good here? Like what is yeah, because uh, you know, you know, you know you know you've been to the you know, you've been to Italy, you've been to France, you know what's good there. So if you're going to um you know, if you're going to Senegal, you don't want some interpretation McDonald's. Yeah. Well, uh it's interesting.
+
+[4:04] I spoke to a good f a good friend of all of us actually, uh, who's like whenever he travels, he won he goes to local McDonald's to see how they're different from American McDonald's. Interesting. Yeah, it's kinda strange though. Pretty strange. Yeah, pretty strange.
+
+[4:15] Uh so anyway, so that's the that's the goal of that. And so someone will have to take my place at the barbecue, but can they still purchase the tickets at the Eventbrite? Absolutely. Does anyone know the uh the this the site to go to? Jack does.
+
+[4:27] Jack? The site is Italian Barbecue.eventbrite.com. I'm not gonna say that if you don't go, you're worthless and stupid, but I wouldn't be possible. Oh, I'll say that. It's it's yeah.
+
+[4:40] Yeah. What are you gonna be making there? Uh some sticks. We're making some spiadini. Yeah?
+
+[4:46] Made from uh heritage uh USA's very own red wattle pork shoulder. Red wattle, huh? It's gonna be delish. Has the price of red wattle come down at all or is it still absurdly? I don't believe so.
+
+[4:57] Uh it's pretty absurdly expensive. Not as expensive as the uh uh you know what's my favorite word is a pig related word is mangallista. That stuff's I've I've never cooked with it. You ever cooked with the mangalista? Yeah, it's pretty strange.
+
+[5:08] Is it worthwhile? Yeah, it is, it's good. Worth the money? Um if you like pork. Do you like pork, Dave?
+
+[5:15] Uh I do. I do. I do enjoy I do enjoy the pork every night. Speaking of pork, who's who's our who's our sponsor today's someone like that's underground meats. From Mad Town?
+
+[5:23] Madison, Wisconsin. Have you had their product? I have yet to have their product. I would like to try their product to see whether it is as delicious as I hope it is. I believe there'll be uh something sent out.
+
+[5:31] Beautiful show. You know what I have friend of cooking issues, listener of cooking issues. So nice. I well well I uh I am excited to try it. You know what I had last night from pork, pork, pork related.
+
+[5:41] You know the Salamaria Belesi guys? They're excellent uh, you know, Salumi curing uh outfit here in uh New York and New Jersey. Good people. And have taught a lot of people a lot of uh you know, a lot of people who uh are known for their curing now in this area spent a lot of time with the guys at Salamaria Belacy um kind of learning their techniques. And what they did that was very interesting way back in the day was instead of changing their procedures to meet um to meet food code, they hired and paid for people to prove that their techniques were safe from a uh food from a food, you know, soup food safety standpoint.
+
+[6:17] It's true and absolutely fascinating. I think they're the only people that have actually gotten away with that. Yeah, I mean they spent I think a lot of money, you know. Uh but they you know the their point uh and I was hanging out with Paul from there yesterday, and the point that they made years ago when I first met them was well I you know I don't I if I'm not gonna do it the way I want to do it, I just I don't want to do it. So, you know, let's see whether we can.
+
+[6:39] And they did. Yeah, and I don't know anyone else who I don't know anyone else who does that, but they had they had the most delicious wild boar supersata that I had yesterday. Of course, I'm from the East, so I call it super sot. But anyway, but like it was ridiculously good. And they apparently they have these wild herds in Texas that they let roam free and then right before slaughter they herd them together and like you know, sh uh slaughter them, I guess shoot them in the head.
+
+[7:01] So they it's all wild fed, but USDA. Really good. Do you have that product yet? I have not. I have not.
+
+[7:08] Sounds good to look out for it. You want that, right? Okay. Love board. All right, now uh to uh two some questions we have.
+
+[7:13] Okay. Uh Mark writes, not this mark, not Mark Ladner, the mark from the noodle questions uh last week. Writes in, thanks for discussing my rice noodle predicament. I've tried adding more water because I told him maybe add more water. He if you remember or if you listened or whatever, he was trying to make uh a rice noodle.
+
+[7:26] It's made from uh partially um cooked out hydrated rice starch mixed with uh more rice starch and water and uh pressed through uh you know through uh a potato ricer uh into boiling water to make noodles. And the reason you pre-boil part of the starch is because otherwise, you know, rice starch doesn't really hold together very well if it's just rice starch and water, and it'll fly apart on you. So uh so anyway, so uh that I told them more water is what I told him. Uh or uh more ball or press. Those are the two choices I gave.
+
+[7:55] More water, more baller. Okay. Uh I've tried adding more water, but the texture of the final noodles compromised. I'm definitely going to try the Indian noodle press thing you mentioned. I can't see how that wouldn't work because the they they in India they make these noodles uh from cooked out starch and that they're really stiff, and so they need really hardcore presses to press the stuff out.
+
+[8:11] Uh hey, have you ever tried Mark the uh that uh KitchenAid, the the new powered extruder that fits on the kitchen aid? I have not. I haven't seen it. Yeah, I haven't I hadn't I I read about it last for last week, but I've never never seen it. You have one of the really nice new pasta, the not the arcobolino, you have the other one or you have the arcobolino?
+
+[8:28] No. The other one? Uh I'm not sure of the name right now. I think it's uh italgy. Yep, and you enjoy it, correct?
+
+[8:34] Um yeah, it's good. We don't do a lot of extrusion. Most of our stuff is handmade, but uh I've seen Wiley use a pretty interesting extruder that's sort of like a cocking gun. Yeah, the one he used to use for the shrimp noodles. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
+
+[8:46] Yeah, yeah. That one's pretty cool. Yeah. Um takes a lot of torque, though. I mean, I don't know how you would do it with a racer.
+
+[8:52] Yeah, I mean, like the ricers I have I have a a good stainless steel ricer, but I also had a plastic ricer, and I know that I would break it. I know I would break it. You would. I mean, I know me. I would break it.
+
+[8:59] Uh okay, back to the question. Um concerning the methods of hand pulling noodles that I was talking about, uh, that me, Dave was talking about, in my limit because uh good basically when you would look on the hand pulled noodles, the question is is that there's some guys, and it's usually the people who are attempting to mimic uh you know Asian recipes from an American standpoint, their pulling style on the hand pulled noodles is uh it shows that the dough is so slack that if they pulled overly hard at all, it would just fly apart into nothingness. And then occasionally you will see those guys pull the stuff and the noodle strands will break and fall into nothingness. Whereas if you look at at the actual guys doing it in Asia, they're thwap adap a lap adaping the stuff around, and it looks like it has a lot more resilience to it. And then from my perspective, uh a dough that has more resilience in it, if it could be pulled, is gonna have better tooth.
+
+[9:46] I mean, it's just obvious to me that it's gonna have more tooth if it's got more structure. When you guess, yeah, I don't know how where is the introduction of that alkali water stuff that they use. Is that the real secret ingredient? Well, so the lot of people are using they use alkali water in uh or they well, they use baking soda. Most American guys use baking soda and uh when they're doing it, and they add some, and that should so when you add it to a regular noodle, not one of the kind of overprocessed hand pulled noodles, but a regular noodle, it's gonna strengthen the gluten and also uh and depending on the cultivar uh uh wheat, you use uh you increase the yellowness.
+
+[10:19] So you get the yellow alkaline noodles that have the snap to it, right? But a hand pulled noodle is never gonna have that kind of bite to it because in order to pull it, if it had that kind of bite to it, it wouldn't pull right. You know what I mean? So it's you know, uh when you're making the hand pulled noodles, you have to get to a point where the uh you know where um you know it's not so uh elastic it's gonna break short, but that it pulls. You want the extensibility, but not necessarily the above the pull back elasticity.
+
+[10:44] Have you ever uh successfully attempted this yourself? No. No. I mean I've I've never even known anyone that's tried. No, I mean I've tried it.
+
+[10:52] I've gotten stuff that like I was like, oh, I can see where this might work, but I've never been like, oh, I'm good at this. Or oh, I would serve this to my friends or family. You know, and that uh you know, uh and so uh but you know, the guy Chef Tom, anyway, so let me finish the what it said. So uh concerning the methods of hand pulling noodles that you were talking about, in my limited experience, the thwacking method is really helpful if your noodle dough has been sitting, which makes sense because the gluten strands would probably rejoin together a little bit, uh form more of a network. I've only used the recipe from Chef Tom, which is the one available on the internet, and I found that if you pull the noodles right out of the mixer bowl like he does in the video, they are easy, but they can tighten up after resting, so a few quick thwacks can help get them back to being pullable.
+
+[11:30] Maybe the resting can help add chew. Thanks again, uh, Mark. I think you're right. I think the resting adds shoe. But you know, the thing is I think like anything else, there's so much more to know.
+
+[11:38] Like the one thing I almost got good at was doing the dragon's beard candy. And even then I sucked compared to the you know, the you know, the the million-year-old dude who's been doing nothing but dragon's beard candy because I don't know, because that's all he does. I don't know. You know, like anything else, like there's the techniques, the more you learn about them, the more you know that you don't that you're not really good at what you're doing and that you're a farce. You know, what do you say?
+
+[11:59] I agree. Uh but on the Ublek noodles I was talking about, if you remember this this guy who saw this video, this insane video where the person with ooblek is something that like acts like a solid, uh, but then when you're hitting it, but then when you're not hitting it, you know, it drains through a uh it it turns to a liquid. And so there's videos of guys, cornstarch and water is the most famous one you can make, just mix cornstarch and water, but and these guys running across a pool of cornstarch and water and then stopping and sinking all the way up to their chest in this pool of cornstarch and water. Uh and then we say, Well, how the hell do you make these ubleck noodles? And uh Eating Asia said it's uh they're actually not rice, which is what we thought last week, they're sweet potato, and Paul Adams has made a proper ooblek noodle.
+
+[12:36] And so you go on my uh my my Twitter there, cooking issues, he made it with five percent pre-cooked sweet potato starch, uh, balance uncooked with water and alum. I still don't know what the alum does. But anyway, so enough with the enough with the updates on the noodles, right? Good? Okay.
+
+[12:51] Uh Ben writes in on miso and beans. Uh Ben says, big fan of the show. Uh, actually became a heritage uh radio member at the low cost of about 50 cents per cooking issues episode. Thanks, Ben. Amortized over all of our episodes?
+
+[13:04] That's that's changed, dude. Yeah. And we've done a lot of these dang things. Anyway, two unr unrelated questions. I saw Dave Chang on Mind of a Chef.
+
+[13:12] This have you ever seen Mind of a Chef? I have not. I have not. Have you seen it? I don't really, I don't I don't get I get PBS now, but I well I and I went to go look at it online, but uh PBS took it off because they're publicly funded and so they wouldn't have it streaming.
+
+[13:24] I don't understand that. Does that make any damn sense? No. Makes no damn sense. Okay.
+
+[13:29] I saw Dave Chang on Mind of a Chef discussing the pitiful quality of American miso. Is there any way to make miso in a home environment? And could you achieve the superior quality to what's available in the store that way? Granting it may take a year. Failing that, any New York City or mail order sources of quality miso.
+
+[13:44] Now look, you know, uh Dave is uh occasionally um you know liable to make some hyperbolic statements. In fact, there is you know, you can get some delicious miso here in the in the US, and you can get some crap miso here in the US. Most Americans, when they go buy miso, uh I mean, actually, Nastasha, Mark, and I were all in Japan about a year ago. We had some pre- I had some pretty good meat. Did you have any good miso when you were over there?
+
+[14:08] I had some amazing miso. I had uh the guy who is the head of uh purchasing from Park Hyatt bought uh bought me some Hacho Miso, which it is very hard to get really good hacho miso here. You mean I don't never seen it available. I've seen really bad versions of Hacho Miso here that I guess weren't treated well. And uh Hachomiso is one that's aged for an extremely long time.
+
+[14:26] It's made uh exclusively of soy beans and it's uh very dark and kind of brooding flavors like salt and coffee and all sorts of really awesome stuff, and the real the real good stuff is just light years beyond the you know the crappy version that is uh that I've had here in the US. However, uh there are extremely high quality misos that are brought in. Most misos, most people like the lighter misos, or they they they get hooked on the lighter misos, like the Shiro Misos and things like that. And most of those are done with very short fermentation times, and then they have to dope them up with things to stop them, the stop them from growing in the package and blowing off. And so those can taste not so great, right?
+
+[15:06] But any major city that has a decent uh Japanese population, in New York being one of them, I'm sure San Francisco or any any, you know, is this go to any one of those Japanese places and they have on hand 20 20 different misos, some of which are gonna suck, and some of which are gonna be good. And now not being able to read anything in Japanese and not being able to communicate with a lot of people that are selling me the stuff, you know, even though they actually all speak they all speak English in the stores here and but I still for some reason can't communicate with them at Sunshine Mart. Can you you have this problem, Mark? Everybody else. I don't know shit about miso dave.
+
+[15:42] Anyway, so but but you've been to Sunshine Mart. I have. Yeah. Uh see you know what I'm talking about. Like they speak English fine, but still they don't communicate with me.
+
+[15:51] I don't understand it. Anyway, uh Piper, you ever done this? Nah, you don't care. Okay. So anyway, so because you're trying to when I walk into a store, here's what I want to know.
+
+[16:02] You have 30 different things. I don't want to fool around. I don't have the time. I can't even type this stuff into a search engine. Just tell me what the good stuff is.
+
+[16:09] Just point out the good stuff, right? And even though I know it's a very nuanced question, like still, like if someone walked in and they and and you know, I had a bunch of different price ranges of things, and I said, why is this thing cost more? They would have some sort of explanation. Anyway, so I end up just buying like, you know, a couple of the higher priced ones and and maybe one of the crappier ones to see what the difference is taken home. But there are some very, very good misos available here.
+
+[16:34] But you can make your own. If you want to, but uh this said, Miso is there's a lot of steps in Miso, and anything when there's a lot of steps, uh, even though you can do it yourself, there's a lot of room for not being as good as the people who are actually very, very good at it. Uh it's the same way that you can bake bread at home, but most of us, unless we don't, unless we devote a lot of time to it, aren't going to make bread as good as the best bread makers that we can go visit. But if you want to make your own, you should well, first of all, you should probably own at any rate uh Sandor Katz's book, The Art of Fermentation. He has a small section on Miso, and then he he actually directs you to the kind of still, you know, I think almost two decades or more later, like Grand Tome on Miso by uh William Shirtliff and uh Kiko uh Oyagi, which is the book of Miso.
+
+[17:17] The same people that brought you the book of Tofu. I've talked about these guys on the air a bunch of times. The tofu book, I think I told you I called him and he was like, he took called me a bad person for trying to make tofu out of vetamame. He said I was like a he actually said I think that I was a bad human being. Uh and um anyway.
+
+[17:33] Uh he uh, you know, his book on tofu, I think has been superseded with more modern books, but I think his Miso book is still the uh his and her miso book is still the the one to get. Uh beware that they have abridged small paperback versions of the book of tofu and the book of miso and they've been hacked up and then re glued into a paperback form and to me that was almost unreadable. Get the big version like the larger version whether in paperback or in uh hardcover. And uh you can go to his website it's funny thing it's like both of them it's always him and her but then whenever someone's writing it's always him writing something so I never know you know what I mean anyway. Soy InfoCenter.com and uh good source good source for uh Koji you need Koji to make miso uh and a good source for that is gem cultures www.gemcultures dot com.
+
+[18:21] What do you think? Good enough on Miso? Yeah you know what my favorite misos are? I like barley misos. Barley miso muta misos.
+
+[18:27] You like barley miso piper? Never had it. What the hell is you guys don't like miso? I just don't use it a lot. Why?
+
+[18:34] What what's your hate down on Miso? Nothing. No hate down? I just don't use it. Don't cook with it.
+
+[18:40] It's just delicious. I agree. Yeah. I actually like, you know, a lot of people like Chang hates this, but I like putting miso in things that it doesn't belong in. Like I really like uh I like I like milk based miso soups.
+
+[18:54] I like cream of miso soups. I like I like I mean it's just such an awesome rich flavor but uh you know apparently I'm a bad person. Honestly here's another one. Like okay you ready for like a bunch of people I'm gonna lose a bunch of listeners now. Ready?
+
+[19:07] I like I like with I know that I'm a bad I know it's bad. I know it's stupid and I know that like and and I guess you have to be a certain generation for this to be really offensive to you, but wasabi mashed potatoes taste good. I'm sorry. They do. Like wasabi mashed potatoes, taste freaking good.
+
+[19:24] Now, you know, okay I I said it. I'm a bad bad man and it's like incredibly trite and uh, you know, I shouldn't like them, but they don't taste Christmas heretic. Yeah, right? But they don't taste bad. Do they taste bad?
+
+[19:37] I'm not gonna make Mark comment because you know he's professional and this is they don't taste bad. How about this? What about mustard and mashed potatoes? You ought to be ashamed of yourself. Oh my god.
+
+[19:47] Got a caller. I got I got you uh caller, you're on the air. Hopefully it's not about the wasabi. It's not about wasabi. Hi guys.
+
+[19:55] Um I'm calling because I have a bunch of delicious leftover duck fat from uh duck roast that I did. Um and I'm interested in a sweet application for it. So I was just wondering if I could substitute it one for one for butter. And whether you have any um awesome recommendations of something that would be as particularly delicious in a sweet duck fat pastry kind of a thing. Hmm.
+
+[20:21] Mark, what do you think? You got anything? Yeah, I think it's I think it's awesome. Make a pie. Yeah, uh pie was the first thing that came into my head.
+
+[20:30] Lampanata or some penzotti or something like that. Yeah, I mean uh Pensaroti. It's gonna be uh it's gonna be flaky. A little softer than it's gonna be a little softer than uh lard, right? But any any sweet that you would add lard?
+
+[20:43] I mean, like there's no I've never made a better pie crust than a lard based crust, right, Mark? Never. Crisco. Well that's illegal though. Yeah, but I like uh the flavor of lard better than the flavor of Crisco though.
+
+[20:53] That's true. Yeah, I mean I'm not I'm not so I like I don't really care whether it's the flakiest thing in the world as long as the taste is good. Are you like a huge flake man? No, not necessarily. But flavor all the way.
+
+[21:04] Have you done a uh a pie crust with with duck fat or ever? I'm just assuming it would be good. I have not. I assume it would be good. But here's the thing.
+
+[21:10] You're making fun with mass. That's all right. I wouldn't want the sweet mashed potatoes. But here, check this out. Uh, one thing I'd be aware of is when you're making pie crust, you know how everyone says your butter has to be uh like exactly the right temperature?
+
+[21:25] I find that that's kind of like crap that you can kind of make pie crust with any form of butter and any form of crisco. And in fact, Steingarden in uh in his first book, you know, has a whole thing where he and Marion Cunningham make pie crust uh and they don't worry about how the temperature of their water or anything like that. But once you move to highly plastic fats that tend to grease out on you, lard being one, and I'm presumably duck fat being another, especially after it's rendered. Duck fat, you're like, oh, it takes forever to render out of the skin, so it must be really resilient. No.
+
+[21:53] Like once it's there, like it softens up quick in your hands when you're working with it. Now chilling your water and making sure that the that the that the fat's exactly in the right plastic range is going to be a lot more critical because when you're making those kinds of things, I guess empanadas not as much, but when you're making like a pie crust, you really don't want to uh melt out too much of the fat into the into the flour because it's just gonna change the consistency. It won't necessarily be bad, but it won't be the same consistency. That's my feeling. Would a uh like a buttercream crossing be out of the question?
+
+[22:23] Oh, I don't know. Sounds good, actually. See, this is good. This is why I like piper around. But like a duck butter cream, uh ducker cream, ducky, ducky cream.
+
+[22:35] I would try doing a I would try maybe s subbing half out to see whether it works. That's what I'm thinking. And then so, like, you know, replace half of the butter with the duck fat. Because Piper, this is why we keep Piper around. Piper has some awesome ideas.
+
+[22:48] He also is the master of puns. If you need a pun, Piper. Yeah, you need to come to Piper for the punch. All over it. I've witnessed this.
+
+[22:53] Do any of these ideas help out at all or no? Absolutely. That was really helpful. I think the half and half is probably the way to go. All right.
+
+[23:01] And freezing it in in thin sheets for laminating. Oh, yeah, yeah. Oh, there you go. Colder the better. There you go.
+
+[23:09] Bang. All right. Great. And uh, so we're gonna call that one Piper Piper. What are we gonna call that?
+
+[23:14] Just remember Piper. When you make it and you tweet back tweet back to cooking issues saying that it was delicious, just you know, don't forget Piper. Okay, I promise I will. Cool. Thanks a lot.
+
+[23:23] Uh okay, the second question Ben had was what's the deal with kidney beans, red kidney bean toxicity. Uh my understanding is that soaking followed by boiling can deactivate the toxin in kidney beans, which is uh phytohemagglutinin. Uh, but that temperatures below boiling could exacerbate it. I've seen uh Texas, obviously non Texas style, because Texas style chili has no beans in it, right? Although I like beans in the chili.
+
+[23:47] Is my also a bad man because I like beans in my chili? I like beans and chili, Dave. Piper? Beans and chili? Always.
+
+[23:52] Yeah, yeah. So, you know, people who are meat only just need to need to get over. You know, purism of any sort. Like sometimes purism is fun, like at dinner parties to have like uh and we could talk about Colonel Sanders being a purist later because you know he was like kind of the purest of all time, uh insulting his own restaurants. It's stuff's amazing.
+
+[24:08] Anyway, but uh there's no reason to be a uh purist, and beans and meat uh they love each other so much, especially in a in chili. So, yeah. Although I like a meat only chili. Uh I've seen obviously non Texas style chili recipes, they call for beans to be soaked and salted overnight, then simmered on a gentle heat for a couple of hours in a Dutch oven on a stovetop. Is that safe?
+
+[24:26] Kenji Alt's recipe on serious eats is one such example. Okay. So here's the deal. Uh, kidney beans, uh, and uh a lot of other uh beans, uh similar beans, contain in them pH, phytoahemogglutinin, along with other uh what's called anti nutritional factors, right? Some of them are, you know, in undigestible things, some of them are are uh protein uh absorption inhibitors, and some of them are just uh, you know, uh sugars that you can't uh digest, and so they make you uh tootis.
+
+[24:57] Toot. Yeah, flatus. Oh, the piper busting out the flatus. Yeah. Uh it's what makes them the musical fruit.
+
+[25:02] Let's just put it that way. And you know, Booker, my son Booker, has stopped eating beans because Dax told him that they make him fart. He's never had a problem with it. Like Booker's never been running around the house tooting out with beans, and yet the idea that it might happen now is turn them off of beans until he says, Daddy, you need to you need to have a way to guarantee that they won't make me toot. And I was like, I can't, I can't, I can't do that.
+
+[25:21] I can't guarantee. Well, he yeah, he's not a subway tutor. I h I hate the subway tutor. Not as bad as the airplane tutor. The airplane tutor is the worst.
+
+[25:34] What? Elevator tutor. You want the worst? The crowded bar tutor. Like because you're trying to like enjoy something and like someone like just toots out at the bar.
+
+[25:42] Anyway, uh, okay. So uh if you go on the FDA's uh website and their bad bug book, right, uh they in fact uh uh put out this notion, and if you go on the Wikipedia, of course, like you can trust the Wikipedia necessary, uh, if you go on the Wikipedia, they both uh mention uh the fact that incorrect cooking, and they and they both mention I think uh 85C, cooking it at these kind of simmering temperatures, can increase by some you know order of like five fold the toxicity of of the of pH. And what it is, is it's a form of a lectin, which is a a protein that bonds to uh to polysaccharides. And uh another another style of thing like that is ricin, which you know just got mailed out to some of our politicians, unfortunately, that comes from the castor bean, but that's deadly. PA the PHA is not gonna be deadly, but if you eat too much PHA uh in in the form of a raw or undercooked kidney bean, it's not fun.
+
+[26:37] Like, you know, you got yourself some diarrhoea and some some sickness and some but you're you're not gonna die, I don't think. I don't think so. Probably not. Although don't take my word, don't go out and eat raw rock kitty beans. But uh and and you know, you like I say you can read about it in the clinical complications, but as you say, what's the deal with that?
+
+[26:53] Why would cooking it at a lower temperature make it much more um much more toxic? And then when I went to try and read all the scholarly articles I could get on the subject of deactivating, because it's a big it's a big deal making getting rid of the anti-nutritional factors and things like kidney beans. Uh in fact, I did not see that that was the case. I did not see any situations where uh soaking and low uh simmering actually made it much worse. I think here's my feeling on it, and uh please someone who's a doctor come and tell me why I'm wrong that uh if you were to cook a bean at a temperature that wasn't going to deactivate a lot of the pH A, uh it wouldn't taste cooked.
+
+[27:29] So if the bean doesn't taste cooked, then the bean's not cooked and you probably shouldn't need it. If the bean tastes cooked, it's probably been activated at 85, you know, it's probably been activated uh cooked above a temperature to deactivate to denature the protein to an extent that it's okay. My guess is that uh the person who that whatever study, which I was not able to find, uh, even though the US government puts it out there as a fact that you can make it worse by undercooking it, it's gotta be that uh partially breaking up the bean and then masticating it makes more of the bad stuff that you haven't deactivated yet available to your system. It's gotta be it, right? I mean, I can't think of any other mechanism.
+
+[28:05] Anyone? Anyone? Just cook your kidney beans for Christ's sake. What? A lot of people put beans in the crock pot.
+
+[28:13] You think you'd hear about people getting sick from it? Yeah, you'd think. Well, so another study I read uh called, let's see if I can find the name of the study here. Uh I can't, but it's called like clinical presentation of uh of kidney bean toxicity. And it just came out this year.
+
+[28:29] Uh oh, here it is. Clinical complications of kidney bean, phaseolis vulgaris consumption by uh Sandy Kumar, February 2013, made the interesting point that these toxicity things come up more often in the UK than they come up in the US. Different cultivar, perhaps, that we consume. Another possibility is that aside from actual toxicity due to PHA, there's uh it could be another factor in allergic reactions to uh leguminous things. And maybe there's some other complicating factor, the ones in the UK.
+
+[28:58] I don't know, but the study specifically said there's a higher incidence of problems in the UK. Because in the US, you're never like, man, my cousin, man, in the hospital after that kidney bean. You know what I mean? Does that ever you ever heard of that? No.
+
+[29:10] Never dave. No, it doesn't happen. Okay. I think we should go to a break. Oh, commercial break, come back with cooking issues.
+
+[29:54] Underground Meats is an American producer of handcrafted salami and cured meats in Madison, Wisconsin. They use small farms from southwest Wisconsin to source their meat. The animals are raised on pasture for their entire lives by farmers who care about animal welfare. While Underground Meats uses European traditions, they also use ingredients from the upper Midwest to try to create new types of salamis, experimenting with both ingredients and techniques. The salamis are made using heritage breeds, mostly red wattles, tamworts, Berkshires, and Mule Foots.
+
+[30:25] Try their award-winning cured pork shoulder and goat salami. To learn more and purchase products, visit shop.undergroundfoodcollective.org, or stop by their butcher shop in Madison, Wisconsin. Oh, great. Welcome back to Cooking Issues. Alright, so we have a question in from Mike in Orlando.
+
+[30:46] Says, Dear Dave and Hammer, and little did Mike know that Mark Ladner would be in the studio today to answer this question so that I wouldn't have to give my uh kind of useless information on it, Mark A Gig. Don't assume that's gonna be helpful. Uh I think this one's gonna be good. Uh Dave and Hammer, every weekend at our house, we also have family dinner with my in-laws. I have family dinner, although not usually with my in-laws, although they're always welcome when they're in town.
+
+[31:07] Uh, my wife really loves carbonara. Who doesn't? Love it. It's a good product. Good stuff.
+
+[31:12] Yeah. Uh I'm trying to figure out the best recipe for it. I've heard you and Hammer argue about bacon versus panchetta. I live in Florida. We don't have very good panchetta down here.
+
+[31:23] What do you recommend? Love the show. Thanks for everything. Mike in Orlando. First of all, before I let you recommend, do you believe in the old school where people uh soak and soak and like simmer their American bacon to get rid of the smoke, or is that just ruining the flavor of the pork all over the all over the map?
+
+[31:38] I like the smoke, Dave. Yes! Yes! Yes! Mark Ladner.
+
+[31:45] We're in America, damn it. Oh sweet. Sweet. Sweet. Alright.
+
+[31:52] Well, you know, I really nothing much more I can say about that. Because the fact of the matter is bacon is delicious. But if someone actually wanted to have more of a panchetta experience, do you is there any good mail order source of panchetta or anything? Anything you like here? Perhaps Bilase.
+
+[32:05] Do they mail order? I imagine they would. Right. I mean, uh they they make a top they make top-notch stuff across the board. Um poorly made uh industrial panchetta is absolute garbage.
+
+[32:19] I I wouldn't I wouldn't recommend using it. It's just really salty and smell and smells and tastes of chemicals and stick with some bacon. Yeah. Yeah. Well, especially in something like that, if it doesn't have this smoke in it, the the poor quality of the poor pork's gonna shine through, right?
+
+[32:34] You don't want the poor quality. Well, one of one of the alleged uh stories about um the uh the history of uh uh Cabinara is based off World War II American GI C rations and being powdered egg and some sort of bacon product. Have you ever made it with powdered eggs? I never have. I bet you it's no good.
+
+[33:02] Um powdered eggs? Depend depends on how desperate you are. Well, yeah, yeah. I mean, you know, as Colonel Sanders said about the egg McMuffin, I would eat it in an emergency. But uh well, in case I I put some of it up on uh on my Twitter feed last week, but uh we've been reading around here this 1979 interview with the 89-year-old Colonel Sanders, where it's a genius interview.
+
+[33:28] It's in a m in a book, a humor book called Junk Food, and this guy goes to the Colonel Sanders and he brings an egg McMuffin, a filet of fish, a uh Big Mac, a Krispy Kreme uh donut, and then a bunch of, you know, some other some other you know, fast food stuff to him, milkshake and all this, and gets this colonel the colonel's opinion on it, as well as the colonel's opinion on Kentucky Fried Chicken's uh own products, and it is an amazing, an amazing interview. The guy had they had him a crispy cream donut, and the the colonel pulls a gold spoon out of his pocket and just starts nudging all the different foods. And when the guy says, What do you think of the crispy cream? He just sighs and stares at the ceiling. It's like I do not like yeast raised donuts.
+
+[34:09] They turn into balls of dough, don't you know? Anyway, like it's like an amazing, amazing interview. Someday we had to just put the whole of it up on the on the cooking issues website, see what Reb gets sued. Uh anyway, uh okay, so I think we got the we got the panchetta, we got the panchetta nailed down. Okay.
+
+[34:25] You can get bacon that has less smoke in it also if you wanted to, uh, although again, smoke is delicious. Now, here we're on to the tasting portion of the cooking issue show. We've never done this before. We're doing a live taste on the air. What?
+
+[34:37] Pop it over. What? Pop pop. Uh she's saying pop it open piper. Uh so uh John Riper writes in uh Deer Cooking Issues peeps.
+
+[34:47] A few years back, Harold McGee showed that holding olive oil at deep fat frying temperature for five minutes drives off pretty much all its distinctive flavor compounds. Some Italian cookbook authors harumphed at that by some uh Italian cookbook authors uh authors, it's Marcella Hazan. Uh some uh Italian cookbook authors harumphed uh at that and said that the olive oil will indeed impart its flavor when cooking an egg under conditions much milder than Harold tested. Most of us cooking at home use olive oil in the huge gap between those applications. In the initial minute or three, but when the oil is hotter than you'd want it for an egg.
+
+[35:18] Can you give any useful guidelines? Whoa, whoa, shit. I mean, shoot. I saved the cast. Oh, I love you, Piper.
+
+[35:25] Alright, I didn't mean to curse on air. I apologize. We'll get Jack and Joe to bleep that out. I gotta hand it to you. Yeah, but uh what I thought was happening was these like all of these containers that I had like labeled, that the labels were getting mixed about, and none of us would know which containers were which, and then uh the entire thing would be ruined.
+
+[35:41] So I apologize out there in listening land for the for the curse. Um does your oil smell like eggs, Steve. Because there's eggs in it. Oh, okay. Yeah.
+
+[35:49] Oh, good nose though. Uh see, I love that. Um I'm the same way when someone cracks something and they think I'm like, what is that? Blah blah blah. Anyway, okay.
+
+[35:56] Uh okay. Can you give any useful guidelines about how fast olive oil loses its flavor as it heats up and whether those flavors are transferred and retained in the cooked product as the oil loses them? Well, I can't give any hardened fast rules, but I did read Harold McGee's article that you forward to us, which was a New York Times from uh November of 2010. And let me just say something about Harold McGee is that when Harold McGee does something, he usually does it right. You know what I mean?
+
+[36:20] He doesn't mess around. So he sits there and he doesn't make off the cuff statements ever. I mean, never. You know what I mean? Uh and so you should go read his article.
+
+[36:29] He tests a bunch of different seed oils, a bunch of different uh nut oils, and a bunch of different olive oils of varying qualities uh under two different heat regimes, uh, and then takes those oils also to um takes those oils to specialist olive oil tasters and has them taste it to see kind of what happened. And the result is is that in his opinion, most of the actual quality of the olive oil is lost uh fairly quickly during the during during the cooking time. There was a rebuttal uh on Zester Daily by uh Nancy Harlan Jenkins, and you can read it uh on there, it's Fried Egg Rebuttal. Uh and I'll give you a quote, and I have a lot of respect for Martel Hazan, because who doesn't have a lot of respect, but she says something here that really ticks me off. Uh Hazan, who has degrees in natural sciences and biology, immediately rose to the challenge, Perald McGee's challenge.
+
+[37:15] Uh she seemed to have a great uh she seemed to heave a great sigh in her Facebook page. It was discouraging once again to see a scientist writing about cooking as a scientist, she wrote. You can only make sense about cooking if you write as a cook. Now I absolutely hate when people say, especially about McGee, that he is just a scientist in a lab thinking about McGee is a lover of all food eating, gussetory experiences, and he doesn't sit around like I hate the majority also of food science where things are reduced to meaningless uh you know quantities, and you don't really get a feel for what actual cooking is like by reading it or or or the studies that people do don't actually have a lot of uh implications for real-world cooking. McGee is not like that.
+
+[38:03] McGee is not a scientist in a laboratory doing stuff. McGee is someone who, and if you read his original book, The Curious Cook, it fantastically shows you, like if you want to know what's in McGee's mind and how McGee works, uh, read a curious cook. It's out of print, but it's easy to get. And what he does is is he notices something in a kitchen or someone tells him something and sparks an idea in his brain, and he runs it into the ground and he runs tests using his mind and his mouth. He's not, he i like I know what it's like to talk to scientists who uh poo-poo the real world and and actual experience.
+
+[38:37] McGee is not that. So I uh I bristle at any implication that that is what McGee is doing in the article, because that's just wrong. Now, what she does say is that anyone that's cooked and and quotes someone that McGee knows but that wasn't in the olive oil tasting, that everybody knows that if you cook an egg in uh a good olive oil, it's better than if you cook it in not good olive oil. So what I have for these guys to test here, I have uh the same oil under three different procedures, and I want you to smell them and you know tell me about the different oils. And then I have one egg cooked in uh in an olive oil and one egg cooked in a uh well I didn't have I didn't have any non-olive oil in my house actually.
+
+[39:17] So the only thing I had was Pam. So I put an extra amount of gross kind of Pam in the because I use it for my waffle maker. Uh a Pam in the and fried an egg and Pam. Yeah. So why don't you guys first let's go for the oils.
+
+[39:30] So why don't you pass pass these around here? Which one is I give let me read the little lid because it doesn't. That one says S L O O. All right. So what are your what are your thoughts on the S L O O?
+
+[39:46] Mark. It smells very vegetable. Yeah. Yeah? It smells like shit, Dave.
+
+[39:57] Stuff. Smells like stuff. Smells like uh fish, actually. Yeah, that was. Which one which one is that one?
+
+[40:01] That uh that's E V. That's that labeled E V O Oright. And then uh the last one. Pass this around. Here, here you go.
+
+[40:13] Mark smelling the the last one. Labeled a rufo, R-U-F-O. This smells like pure olive oil. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[40:23] Uh so you taste them, and so there's a so what would you say about the the that like uh give give Mark the middle one again? Piper, you taste it. This is the strongest one. Yeah. This feels just tastes raw.
+
+[40:36] Yeah. And I'm not, yeah, well, no, taste the other one, the middle one. Sorry that you can't see what we're tasting here, but it it'll become apparent when we talk about it in a minute. This is the SL S L O O. No, not that one he said smelled like fish.
+
+[40:51] Alright, so while he's tasting that, uh I did three different regimes. One of the one of the oils is a you know, an actual one that I would use uh that I actually use to eat on things raw. Uh it's a it's you know, it's an unfiltered olive oil from Sicily, and it's a combination of three of my favorite olives, Nochelara, Debellici, Cherisola, and Biancolilla. Uh comes from a guy named Golufo in the south of uh Sicily, and I've been buying his oil for years, and I enjoy it. Uh and that one was labeled uh Rufo, raw unfiltered uh oil, right?
+
+[41:25] Uh the one labeled E V O O that uh Mark said smelled like fish stands for uh extra violent overcooked oil. And that's deep frying conditions. So I took it up to just about the smoke point and and then fried a couple cubes of bread in it, uh, and then uh strained it out through a coffee filter, and uh uh to me, all of its all of its olive oilness is pretty much been wiped away. It just tastes, it smells like like oil that's been slightly abused. Yeah, right.
+
+[41:59] Uh there's no debris at all though, which is surprising. And then and then the the middle one, I sauteed some lettuce in very quickly just to get just to give uh an idea. And that one to me, uh, I mean, it it's not great, but it does maintain some oliveness to it. It does. It does.
+
+[42:17] It's about half. Yeah. Yeah, and that was that you know, that's if you're doing a very quick kind of a saute and it maintains it. And then I have two eggs here. See whether you can see whether you get any olive oilness out of the eggs.
+
+[42:29] We have a fork here. By eating them. That's why there's a fork present. So anyway, so we r ran the test here, and I think you know, McGee is pretty much right. Two things are happening when you overheat an oil.
+
+[42:41] You're damaging the oil and you're giving the off smells, which is where the fish stuff is coming from, and you are driving off a lot of the a lot of the volatils. You get any much of a difference between specifically she she said fry an egg. So I fried an egg, and uh, I used what I always did is I heat up a cast iron skillet till that till it's you know, till when I slap the till when I slap the surface of the skillet with my palm, it feels like it's the right temperature to cook an egg. I then added uh small quantity of oil, crack the egg into it, and then but you know, before it fully sets, I turn the pan off and let the heat carry through the pan. That's my typical fry egg uh uh technique.
+
+[43:18] If I was to guess, I would say this one had the oil. Is that the one that had the pre-broken egg uh yolk? Yeah. That's the one that had pan. So is it just because the pan was bad or because the olive oil was good?
+
+[43:30] It just had more flavor in general. Yeah. I I don't think that there was um any uh noticeable advantage one way or the other. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[43:41] All right. Well, there you have it. Our first on air test of a listener question on the cooking issues. Here's a here's a related question regarding that. So when I make my tomato sauce, I leave a lot of the oil that I cook the garlic in.
+
+[43:57] Would it be better to fry garlic separately and then add cold oil and heat it up just to two twelve? I don't know. I usually when I'm doing garlic I do two step. I do garlic and then I always add fresh oil back to it. And so do I.
+
+[44:12] Yeah. I think it's actually better to start with a neutral oil and finish with a like save your money for a good extravagant olive oil. Use that to finish and then just do the initial cook in like a grapeseed or a canola. Yeah I mean look at my house what I have is I have two three liter containers of olive oil. One that is roughly three times the cost of the other one and they're I buy the tins because I use a lot of olive oil and because they have no there they have zero light transmission so they don't go bad very quickly in the tins.
+
+[44:44] And um I don't stock a lot of different um cooking oils because if I'm gonna fry I deep fry and my deep fryer has you know 30 you know 30 or 40 pounds of oil in it so I'm not gonna buy olive oil for that because that's crazy. What do you use? I I use I usually use like a neutral vegetable. I've tried a bunch of different ones. I I I like you know I I used to use a lot of corn but corn has such a corn flavor that I got so sick of it I don't like using corn oil anymore unless I'm frying tortillas in which case it doesn't matter.
+
+[45:12] Um but the um but I don't use excessive amounts and so I'd rather the my cheaper olive oil is one that I'm willing to eat. I'm willing to eat it raw if I had to uh but it's you know it's not breaking the bank and I use little amounts of it when I'm cooking so it's easier for me to keep it around. If I was going to do that professionally, I would have a bunch of neutral oils around because it would be a big cost saver if I was doing it all the time. But at home, you know, the space is more important to me for the amount that I, you know, amount that I'm using. It doesn't break my bank.
+
+[45:43] So that's you know, that's why I don't have anything but olive oil around. You know? Anyway. Uh uh, who is who that writes in? Zach in Pittsburgh writes in.
+
+[45:54] I'm considering getting a big boy blender for my apartment kitchen. I know you guys like the Vitamix, but the price makes me kind of gun shy. Blend Tech looks like they make comparable blenders at a lower price. I know you've talked about blenders a ton, but would like to hear some more. The show continues to be great.
+
+[46:08] I just wish Dave wouldn't yell into the mic so much and blast the levels. Keep up the good work, Zap and Zach in Pittsburgh. Stas loves any time someone uh uh insults. In fact, she's she's doing the she's doing the yeah yeah pound in the air with it with a I'm not though. You gotta get close to that mic.
+
+[46:24] Well, you know keep the levels good. All right, all right, all right. I'm getting conflicting information. Apparently Well screaming and staying close to the mic are two separate things. Which is better, screaming or staying close to the mic.
+
+[46:35] Staying close to the mic. Alright. So uh here's my feeling. Uh I've have never seen an inexpensively plu priced blend tech blender. I've used their expensive one, the one that goes in jamba j jamba jamba, jamba juice.
+
+[46:47] And uh and of course I've used the Vitaprep, and it's the power of the blenders is both good. Uh, but Vitaprep is just a far better blender in terms of the controls and how I like to use them. Um I mean I've talked before in the air that Vitapep, I have some issues with their old pitcher style. I think their newer pitchers are probably better. Uh but uh, you know, I don't see chefs using a lot of any other kind of blender, which leads me to believe that no one's had that good a luck with any other kind of blender.
+
+[47:14] Now Stas and Piper here have said that they've heard good things about the ninja, but I've never seen a ninja in a professional kitchen. Mean blender, ninja blender in a professional kitchen. Ninjas I've seen. You never see a ninja. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
+
+[47:28] Well, I've seen the ninja. Have I ever told that have I told that story on air about uh what when I was at uh when I was at Kinikanuya? No. All right. Well, they're they're gonna get me off this, they're gonna get me off the air in in uh in a in a in a minute.
+
+[47:40] So like Mark, is anything else you want to say about? No, no, I'm fine. Thank you. Uh and we'll meet some sticks on Saturday. Please do.
+
+[47:47] Uh and you'll be you actually be there, so you get to you get to talk to uh to Mark, you know. Uh fascinating, I assure you. Mark, one of our beta testers for the Sears All unit, by the way. You still having any good luck with that or no good luck? Yeah, yeah, I love it.
+
+[47:58] Yeah, nice. All right. Uh thanks, Piper, for coming on. But I'll tell you a little story that I may or may not get in trouble for about ninjas. Uh so I was going to Kina Kenuya, which is like the awesome bookstore in New York City for Japanese uh books.
+
+[48:13] Incredibly expensive because I think that even if it's an American book, they must ship it from Japan over here in China. Because it's really expensive over there. And my son Booker, who, you know, who uh is awesome, but you know, sometimes will say things he shouldn't, like screams in Kinekanuya, why is it so expensive here? These deals are not good. I'm like, shut up, shut up.
+
+[48:31] Uh so anyway, so we're in Kinakanuya because they have a Zaya upstairs, and Zaya is like a kind of like uh a Japanese cafe we have here in New York, and they make actually I love their onigiri, the little rice squares with the nori, because their nori is hermetically wrapped and placed around the rice square, so you pull the plastic off at the last minute, and the nori is always really, really crunchy. And so Booker is obsessed with uh with Zaya's Onigiri. So we're there, and Dax is well, my the other son Dax, like little her best friend's little little sister. We're sitting in Zaya, and uh some um some women walk in, uh, you know, wearing uh not Burka, but the other, the other, the other kind of Islamic dress that where it's just the eyes are just the eyes are visible, and you know they're wearing full face cover. And Dax's uh Dax's friend Amaya looks over, whispers in her mom's ear, look, mom, ninjas.
+
+[49:25] Cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network dot org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network or heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization.
+
+[49:58] To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:01] Step inside and let the excitement take you places. This is Muckle Shoot Casino Resort, the ultimate spot for action that reaches incredible heights, luxury that knows no bounds, and live entertainment that always thrills. It's all at one incredible destination. So when you look for the best, look nowhere else. Muckle Shoot Casino Resort, the biggest and best in the Northwest.
+
+[0:26] Must be 21 and over. Please gamble responsible. This is Chris Young, co-author of Modernist Cuisine. Do you want to learn cutting edge cooking techniques? You could buy Modernist Cuisine, or you can save yourself $450 and check out our new free website, Chef Steps.com.
+
+[0:44] You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.org, a nonprofit member supported radio station. We're millions strong, with folks tuning in from over 200 countries. We are education. We are entertainment. We are the future of food.
+
+[1:00] May is our membership drive. Become a member and support us while receiving the newsletters, advanced invites, special discounts, and a membership card. We need your support. Visit our website and click the donate button to become a member today. Thank you for believing in us and enjoy the show.
+
+[1:21] Cooking issues. Cooking issues! Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from Burda's Pizzeria in the back of the Well, no, coming to you from Roberta's Pizzeria, actually. Not in the back of anything.
+
+[2:02] We are in the back of uh Roberta Petria in Bushwick, Brooklyn. Uh back from Senegal today. Uh sorry I wasn't able to do it uh last week live from Senegal, but uh you know how sometimes these things work. Uh we are down. Two of our crew members today, Nastasha, the Hammer Lopez, uh is in Philadelphia attending uh a conference uh by our good friends David Michaels, fo uh flavorists and food chemistry folks down in Philadelphia, and they are hosting a food innovation seminar today.
+
+[2:29] And Nastasha is there. Uh also Jack is MIA today, but we do have Joe, thank goodness. Hey Joe. How's it going, Dave? Doing well.
+
+[2:37] Uh and we are joined in the studio, I think by the first time ever, maybe in the studio, with uh Peter Kim. Yo, what's up, y'all? How? So Peter Kim uh is uh what's your title over there? Executive director.
+
+[2:48] Really? Yeah. Okay. Is the executive director. Uh Peter Kim is the executive director of the Museum of Food and Drink, uh, which is a 501c3.
+
+[3:00] Uh when do we get our status there? We got it last September. Right, and uh we uh it uh oh yes. Uh I'm uh the founder. I also have what's my other title here?
+
+[3:08] You're also the president. Well founder and also the president of Visionary. Yeah, nice. Great. Uh and uh you want to give them the mission?
+
+[3:15] I'm sure you have it uh memorized. Our mission is to change the way people think about food and inspire day-to-day curiosity about what we eat and why. Yeah, and uh and you know, just uh I'm sure I've already spouted this a million times, but j why do we need a brick and mortar museum devoted to this? Because uh you can't eat food in a in a book. And uh, you know, watching TV is always unsatisfying because you see people eating food, but in a museum you could actually be tasting things as you learn about it.
+
+[3:39] Right. So in this museum, it's not gonna be as someone once asked me uh, you know, a long time ago. Are are we just gonna be looking at uh you know shellacked pieces of bread or some sort of plastic sushi or stuff like that? Is that we're gonna be looking at here? No moldy sandwiches and you know, little boxes.
+
+[3:53] Uh this is gonna be like I mean, sometimes I describe it like like Willy Wonka's chocolate factory, but with an educational focus. Right, right. And uh, you know, and and why have most other food uh museums this concept? Why why do you find them uh lacking? Why are they lacking there?
+
+[4:07] I think two things really. One is that they often have too broad of a focus, and so they try to cover everything in food and drink, which you know, as you know really well, that covers that's a that covers uh a lot of ground. And so MoFed will be actually focusing on very specific topics instead. And the other is I think you know, uh a lot of uh a lot of food museums really end up being corporate sales, and that's something we're really not gonna be. Sweet.
+
+[4:30] Uh so you know, it's good to hear uh good to hear these words out of uh out of Peter's mouth. We hope to have this museum in an actual brick and mortar location in how many years? Around five years, yeah or take. Five years. So it takes time to build a museum.
+
+[4:43] It it it turns out it does take time to build a museum. In fact, uh, you know, most museums um start with a large donation of money, uh or a large donation of a collection, right? So they start with that kind of uh that kind of a uh nut. The uh the the genesis of this museum simply is an idea. But I think uh, you know, uh the the great part about this idea is that uh a lot of people like the subject, and so we're hoping to we're gonna be I'm gonna be pestering and uh soliciting for the museum uh more and more uh as time goes on.
+
+[5:17] Uh just wanted our listeners to know that uh the project is still going uh great guns, slamming forward, not in a way that um people outside might see, but that there is actually uh a lot of work going on and hopefully you know can't talk about it much right now but hopefully good news in three four months maybe yeah possible fingers crossed and i if it's not good news in three and four months I'll tell you what the bad news is that it wasn't good news and we'll figure out what our next steps are. But the other reason I have uh Peter in the studio today is because I just got back from Africa and since Nastasha can't be here I want to talk a little bit later about my trip to Africa and Peter's a good choice because he was also a volunteer uh in the Peace Corps in Cameroon, correct? Yeah that's right. Almost two and a half years there. Yeah yeah and uh interestingly if we have time I don't know if we will because of course I'm horribly late uh we'll get in also to uh Peter's experimentation with uh cot over on the in the east of Africa.
+
+[6:08] Right I don't know what you're talking about Dave. Yeah it's legal over there. Right? I mean I don't think you're gonna get prostate I don't think you can get uh Peter aside aside from being the uh executive director of the Museum of Food and Drink and a uh an accomplished uh Spanish uh style guitar player uh is a lawyer and so you know probably shouldn't cop to illegal drug use in uh in this country and I mean I guess technically if it's a schedule one narcotic you're not allowed to consume it in any country is that true? I'm not sure how it works.
+
+[6:38] Well maybe you could talk about the experiences of some guy named Meter Mim that you were sitting next to in Keter Pim. Yeah Keter Pym in uh uh in East Africa later to discuss it. 'Cause I think it's uh it's an interesting um it's an interesting story and uh we'll get into it later. Anyway, should you have questions, feel free to call them in too. 7184972128.
+
+[6:58] That's 7184972128. Okay. First question in from William about milk. My cousin had an interesting question on her face on her Facebook page. She's come across whole milk being sold for a dollar fifty-nine a gallon at her local store.
+
+[7:09] That's crazy. Milk should not cost a dollar fifty-nine a gallon. You know what I mean? That's insane. I mean, like, I mean it shouldn't happen.
+
+[7:14] It's got mean like I hope I hope the store's losing a lot of money and that they haven't figured out a way to sc you know screw the system and the people making it in the cows so hard that the milk is actually only worth a dollar fifty-nine a gallon. You know what I mean? Yeah. Yeah. I mean, maybe maybe someone like mislabeled it.
+
+[7:32] I've done that. Like, I walked into a store once and uh passion fruit were labeled uh per pound instead of per each. This was back when I was, you know, just graduated from college, I had no money. And so I bought every passion fruit in the store for like an unbelievably low price. And the person I was like, say so on the pricing, you have to honor the price, you put in the thing.
+
+[7:51] And they did. I was even more of a jerk than than I am now. I should have just purchased two passion fruit at that price and then let them recoup their mistake. But instead I bought that's not you, Dave. It's not me.
+
+[8:02] I bought every passion fruit in the store. That's right. I was like, it doesn't say limit. I was a real jerk. But you know you when you're when you have no money and you and you love things, like it's you know, you feel more of a justification for jerking people around like that.
+
+[8:14] And you taught them a valuable lesson in precision with their pricing. I did. I'm sure they didn't give a crap. Uh that was a stopping shop back in New Haven. Oh boy.
+
+[8:24] Going back to the super yeah, I haven't been back to the super stopping shop uh in New Haven in a bazillion years. And I don't think I will. No? No. You you a shop and stop?
+
+[8:33] I've never no, no. No? No. Uh okay, question was: are there any drawbacks to freezing whole milk? Will the texture, consistency, or taste be adversely affected?
+
+[8:44] I would think, since it has much less milk fat than cream, that the ice crystals wouldn't affect it so much. Thanks. Can't wait till the Kickstarter torch is available. Neither can I actually. But um we're working on that as well.
+
+[8:57] So it's an interesting question, William. Now, there are uh a lot of studies out there. Uh what happens, I haven't tasted, I didn't have time to actually do the test and see whether you could do tasting. What happens is that the um the the uh fat globules in homogenized milk are altered by the freezing process. And so it's possible that you will get different, and in fact, there are some studies, I didn't have time to sift through them all.
+
+[9:23] There's a bunch of studies uh out there on this, but a lot of them are older, so I couldn't get the full text of them. They weren't in the in the date in the database that I was searching, so I couldn't get the actual nitty-gritty of it. But uh, yeah, so when you freeze, especially if you're going through multiple freeze thaw cycles, which is gonna happen unless something's totally frozen, so it depends on how much of abuse you get in the in the fridge, you're gonna alter the fat globule size. Now, if you alter the fat globule size, you will alter uh mouth feel and you will alter um you know uh possibly uh you know how how it works or whether it's gonna you know the fat's gonna agglomerate more when you when you heat it. I would think that it's going to be relatively small effect uh you know, when you're using the milk in in in cooking situations where curdling might not be a problem uh and it might not even have an effect in in a curdling situation.
+
+[10:10] Uh but yes, technically it is affected. And although I apologize that I don't have uh more information on that, I came across, and this is one of the reasons I'm actually late, is because when I'm researching something, I in just like in my real life, when I'm researching things, I go off on tangents and found a very interesting tangent. Um it's actually gonna tie in later. We have a question about uh pregnancy and in eating later. But um there was a study on freeze freezing and thawing human breast milk.
+
+[10:40] And this is uh actually very important because um uh m you know most mothers who breastfeed um also at least that I have met, you know, will also um express some of their breast milk and freeze it for later use. This way, if they're uh at work, you know, uh the caregiver can uh feed the actual breast milk to the child, or uh an alternate thing is that you know the mom then can sleep a little bit longer at night and the dad can wake up in the middle of the night and feed uh the already expressed breast milk, you know, natural breast milk to the the baby, right? So, and and you know, you can either refrigerate the the milk or you can uh freeze it. Now, uh so the question is does freezing the breast milk do anything bad to the milk? Uh and and oh, this is also important in other countries actually, because uh there's a thing called uh human milk banks.
+
+[11:35] And in a human milk bank, you know, uh mothers who are lactating uh continue to lactate and express milk and then donate it to um donate it to hospitals so that um you know uh um babies that are born early, let's say, and maybe the the the mother's milk doesn't come in right away, they can feed this you know actual human milk to babies that couldn't otherwise have, which is a great idea, right? Fantastic idea. Right. But you but you have to freeze it to to preserve it. Okay, so so what happens?
+
+[12:04] Well, it turns out that uh aside from the the structure of the fat, you know, uh changing like I said, I said it would, the actual fat level in the milk as it's fed to the babies decreases substantially on freezing. And uh along with that, the protein available in the milk decreases, not as much as the fat. The fat can decrease significantly, uh, you know, but the the protein in it as well can. On thawing, right, the fat preferentially sticks to the relatively hydrophobic walls of the plastic vessels that breast milk is invariably stored in. They didn't, and they didn't touch test test glass, because it's not usually stored in glass, right?
+
+[12:57] So the fat uh the fat um sticks um predominantly to this those side things, and so the remaining liquid is relatively depleted in fat, and that some of the proteins also are bound in with the fat and adhere to the fat layer, and so you're also somewhat reduced in the protein levels uh as a result. And and turns out that it's statistically significant. Interesting, right? Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[13:22] So uh there you have it. Yeah, I mean, I don't know really what to make of that. The name of the study, should you choose to look at it, is and uh my iPad decided that it I should no longer be able to read, so it turned off one second. Is uh it's in a uh the magazine Early Human Development, and it's called Analysis of the Influence of Oh, they also tested pasteurization, uh, but I didn't read uh that section as much, pasteurization of it. Freezing thawing and other processes on human milk's macronutrient concentrations by Viera et al.
+
+[13:51] in 2011. Um, yeah, you don't here's a reason not to pasteurize. I did read a little bit. A reason a reason not to pasteurize uh human breast milk uh is that it inactivates the bile salt stimulated lipase, which is greatly responsible for the digestion and absorption of fat in newborn infants. So pasteurization decreases the maximum utilization of the delivered human milk.
+
+[14:11] That's a basically a direct quote. So anyway, there you have it. Yeah, regardless of what you do, it's probably better than powdered milk. Oh yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah, I'm just saying that, you know, uh it's not saying that you that you're not getting, you know, all the benefits.
+
+[14:25] It's just that there's, you know, that there's not going to be quite as nutritive in terms of fat quantity. Anyway what I thought it was interesting. But here's another interesting thing I researched as a result. I'll tell you I've tangents, right? So recently, I here's my story about uh that I've always had for years and I've never gone back and done the hardcore research, which is of course we what you should always do before you make a statement.
+
+[14:43] People say, well, uh should I consume uh breast milk should I who should I consume breast milk? Should I consume alcohol while I'm lactating, right? That's a question that a lot of people ask. And my you know kind of pat response has been, well look, you figure that uh human milk, although it has fat, is mostly water, you know, vastly mostly water. And therefore you would assume that the uh alcohol content of breast milk is relatively similar to the mother's blood alcohol level.
+
+[15:10] Blood alcohol level, let's say you know, they they were you know on the limit there five percent, right? So assuming that the blood that the milk has a roughly similar alcohol concentration of 0.05% alcohol, in my mind from a uh from an actual ethanol level concentration, that's roughly zero. Zero point five percent. That would mean 50 milligrams per milligrams per hundred uh milliliters, as opposed to uh a glass of wine which is uh you know like let's say it's 12% alcohol that's um twelve thousand milligrams per uh you know per milliliter, right? So roughly zero we're talking about twelve thousand milligrams no no no sorry a hundred and twenty thousand milligrams yeah so thirty five you know milligrams would be roughly zero right okay so uh turns out uh I might be wrong.
+
+[16:12] So tip the bottle. Yeah. So well no no so here's the story, right? It's uh it it it what is true is that human breast milk does roughly correlate with blood alcohol level right and so that uh for a woman that uh that consumes roughly uh three you know uh thirty five th you know three or so or a little more a little less uh grams um of alcohol per kilogram of body weight right is that true a little less anyway that gets a blood alcohol level of like 0.3 your milk will be roughly 0.3.35 somewhere in there right percent so the uh so the the deal uh the deal is is that that was right what I said however it turns out that i there's a study that was published in 2000 that shows that that small amount of alcohol in the breast milk can actually have an effect what they studied was um sleep the sleep patterns of babies and so uh that were fed and the study was they they had mothers uh and they expressed breast milk you know with a medella and then over the course of two different testing days they either took that milk and added thirty five milligrams per hundred ml of alcohol to the breast milk bottle or didn't and it turned out that the ones that they fed the um alcohol to did not uh sleep as well and didn't have as much uh activity during their uh waking hours as the ones that didn't. So, you know, uh it's only one study.
+
+[17:40] Uh I haven't seen it replicated since 2000. I don't know whether the information is still there. Uh, but it's interesting to note that um that that's out there, right? Yeah. Anyway.
+
+[17:51] All right. So uh Alex from Toronto writes in, Dear Dave, Nastasha, Jack, Joe, Indy Jesus, Carlos. We going back. And whoever might be working in the booth now, uh, I'm still catching up on back podcasts. I was finally prompted to write in because of Dave's story about the person rapping out loud in episode 83.
+
+[18:09] So I was talking about how you know people are rapping out loud and how they suck. That's what I was talking about. Uh anyway, uh Alex Right said, My wife and I recently visited New York, and probably the strangest thing about our trip was how many people we saw singing as they walked the streets or waited for subway trains. Nearly all of them had earphones in and seemed to be singing along with recordings, but we're also clearly practicing rather than just casually singing along. We wondered if this was some kind of special New York thing, the Broadway equivalent of LA waiters hoping to be discovered by an agent or director.
+
+[18:35] Judging by your reaction to the rapper, apparently not. But we saw at least a dozen people doing this on our four-day visit. Our favorite was a girl practicing her ballet moves in the subway, totally unself-consciously waiting for a train. Weird. Yes, it is weird.
+
+[18:48] And and it is quite common here, and I don't know what the hell it is. You know what I think it is? I think it's that uh when you live here, uh first of all, I remember years ago, and I might have mentioned this in the other episode. Like I was learning to try and play bagpipes, and they told me, just go outside and play because just you know, because what else are you gonna do? You live in New York.
+
+[19:04] You know what I mean? So there's the fact that you can't practice anything in private New York. There's no private place in New York you can do anything. You have an apartment, you probably have a family or roommate there, uh, you know, you don't have a basement, you don't have a garage, you don't have a backyard. Uh what the hell are you gonna do?
+
+[19:19] You know, if you're gonna play bagpipes, you know, what are you gonna do? You know, it's like it's there's no real choices, you know what I mean? And so same thing goes with uh bad rapping or bad singing or any of that stuff, is that since you have no place to do it, you go outside and you do it. And furthermore, I think they're like uh living in such a big busy city uh strangely dehumanizes all the people around you, and they become like trees or shrubs. You tend to stop thinking of them as people, and then so you're not embarrassed about singing in front of them because they're they're not human beings to you.
+
+[19:45] Are you positing that there's a correlation between population density and bad public rapping? Possibly. Possibly, yes. I also think that everybody is just crazy here, too. Like there's a there's a lot of crazy going on in New York City.
+
+[19:59] Do you think there's more crazy than normal, or it's just like like you see it more because you see more people every day? I think that's uh I think that there's just so many people around, there's just gotta be more crazies. Right, right. And like I say, like, you know, we have our we have our kind of you know, zone out blinders on when you're walking around the city, and so you know, you tend to just view everyone as this kind of like a like a blur. Right, you know, anyway.
+
+[20:19] Uh so uh anyway, uh they went to New York and uh and and they made it back. And here's the story. When we got back from our trip to New York, we found that after three years of trying, uh, we are expecting a baby, which is nice. So New York did that did the deal. Uh the calendar doesn't quite uh back this up, but I give partial credit to the Bangkok daiquiri and son of a peach that we drank at Booker and Dax bar.
+
+[20:42] Good times. Well, thanks. Thanks. Uh you know, I'll take that, I'll take that credit. Uh, you know, we're we're the I mean I wouldn't say that we're yeah, I would I'm not gonna go into it.
+
+[20:50] Okay. Uh we don't seem to have anything like the awesome New York bar scene here in Toronto, but perhaps I'm just unaware of the best stuff. Dave Chang just opened three restaurants in Toronto. Any plans to expand the Booker and Dax Empire? I let's put it this way.
+
+[21:02] I don't know. Won't say no, and I won't say yes. Okay. Very ominous. Yeah.
+
+[21:07] Yeah. Well, I mean, I hope it's not ominous. I hope if we do it, it's a good thing. It's not like, you know, the evil empire coming in. I mean, maybe it is, I don't know.
+
+[21:13] That'd be awesome. I wish I had some sort of like evil, evil emperor vibe that I could bring to whatever I you know what I mean? Someday. That's my goal now. That's my new goal.
+
+[21:22] Evil Empire vibe. Okay. Uh but I guess it's time for some cooking questions. Now that the wife is up the spout, she is no longer able to enjoy her favorite drinks. By the way, that's a phrase, and I I I pride myself on kind of being well versed in slang and idiom.
+
+[21:35] I mean it's kind of, you know, I do. I ne I never heard that before. Have you heard that one before? Never. Uh up the spout is a British informal, this according to the uh Oxford English Dictionary, for one, broken, i.e.
+
+[21:45] no longer working, which hopefully is that's not what we mean in the case. Or uh two, of a woman pregnant. But according to this, it's possibly related to the other thing, like somehow you're broken by getting pregnant. Because I think it was maybe an unwanted pregnancy in the past. Clearly not in this case, and it's lost that meaning.
+
+[22:07] I'm not even gonna try to start analyzing that one. I wouldn't, I wouldn't, but an interesting phrase, and and uh I like it when anyone gives me a phrase that I'm not uh familiar with. Okay, or or I should say with which I'm not familiar. Okay. Uh she usually drinks white wine and Caesars.
+
+[22:19] Caesar's a possibly a Canada specific drink. Basically it's a bloody Mary with clam juice. Uh no, that that's a drink, uh also known as Bloody Caesar or a clam digger or a bunch of other things. Clam digger is the one I normally hear it by. You know, it's clamato, which I love saying that word.
+
+[22:34] A clamato. It's not clemato though. Like it's tomato tomato is fine, but it's not clamato juice. That just sounds weird. Clamato.
+
+[22:42] Yeah. With the accent. Yeah. Well, yes, yes. I won't do it again.
+
+[22:46] Okay. Um Dave just put a monocle on while you said that. I I wish, I wish. We all know that the Mr. Peanut with the monocle is one of the most dashing figures in all of in all in all of uh uh whatever those people are called, spokes spokes characters.
+
+[23:00] That's right. Right? I mean like Joe, what do you think about that? You like the Mr. Peanut with Monocle?
+
+[23:05] Simply dashing. Yeah, yeah, it's amazing. You know, I was talking about this with Labor, who's uh the uh design the uh our graphic design team for the museum, and they took a freaking peanut, which is it's a it's a ridiculous looking thing. You know what I mean? A peanut.
+
+[23:21] It's like it's like if you squeeze the hell out of a golf ball and like colored it beige and made it dirty. That's a peanut. You're like, put a pop hat, give it a monocle, and all of a sudden it's like Classy. Classy. Amazing.
+
+[23:35] And on the far end of the spectrum, I think uh that very same conversation was Grimace, who is the opposite of classy. There's no class in Grimace. Grimace and nobody knows what what the heck Grimace is. Now listen, by the way, I don't want to get any negative calls here. We're not hating on Grimace.
+
+[23:48] He's just not classy. Just not classy. Yeah, he's he's like the he is like kind of prototypical schlub. I mean, I am also a prototyp pro prototypical slub, so not hating. Yeah.
+
+[23:59] Alright, yeah. No hate. No hate on the grimace. Just not classy. Okay.
+
+[24:03] Uh okay. Uh she usually drinks white wine and Caesars. Uh I finished whipping up a batch, uh so the by the way, if she's not gonna drink alcoholic drinks and she likes Bloody Marys or those kinds of things, uh that's terrific because they uh don't have that much of a perception of alcohol. So like the hardest drinks to uh to you know, master are the ones that are heavily alcohol flavored, like bourbon drinks or things like that. So, you know, if she likes things that are um if she likes things like that that are relatively strong flavored, you know, you could easily make uh, you know, a uh a virgin version of that.
+
+[24:37] Uh if you're gonna use any sort of fresh clam product, obviously you pasteurize the shit prasurize the hell out of it. You don't want to get uh, you know, anyone uh sick, but the clamato juice that they sell has been you know heat pasteurized, and so it's okay. So you know, so you can use it. Uh so I mean that'd be an ideal. The white wine, obviously, you can't, you know, drink the white wine, but you could do any sort of um uh you know acidic uh product.
+
+[25:01] Some people say like white cranberry juice, it's altered with a bunch of different things. I mean, I think the the the key thing, well I'll I'll continue reading the question, maybe, right? Yeah, good idea. Uh uh he's uh he says, I've just finished whipping up a batch of your coriander syrup recipe, which is very tasty with the one I use for the coriander old fashions. But I was wondering if you suggest either some other recipes or somewhere to start looking for serious drinks which happen to contain no alcohol and are easy to make at home.
+
+[25:23] I tried making a peach sipping vinegar based on recipes for other fruits that I found online, but that was a bust. It just tasted gross. Uh any thoughts? I'm hoping to find something with enough complexity that will make it satisfying to uh sip for a long time. And I think that's the key, by the way, uh, is the sipping for a long time because that's what uh you know kind of separates uh uh an alcoholic drink that you don't pound too hard, at least you're not supposed to.
+
+[25:45] I mean, I might, but you're not supposed to, uh, versus you know, uh uh, you know, like a thirst quenching drink. Now, on the one hand, the reason why coriander, uh the coriander syrup, especially if you make it spicier, if you increase the spice level of uh a drink or the kind of uh spice impact of the drink, it tends to shift uh towards a more sipping drink, right? So that's why the coriander syrup, which is more akin to like take ginger ale, right? I love ginger ale. Uh you don't pound ginger ale as hard as you pound Sprite, right?
+
+[26:16] I don't pound Sprite either. Well, let's say you were going to. Yeah. You know what I mean? You don't pound it as as hard as you pound seltzer.
+
+[26:22] Yeah. Right? Right. You don't pound ginger beer as hard as you pound ginger ale. Right.
+
+[26:27] Right. So uh ginger beer, good candidate for uh non-alcoholic drinks that you can sip for a while because you are going to take it in small doses. But the other key is that you can't do that by making something that you the reason you're taking small doses is that you don't want to drink it. Right. Right.
+
+[26:45] Which is why ginger beer is such a good candidate. Uh and that, you know, if you know properly done, uh the coriander syrup uh without with uh with um making it into a soda with like some lime is a good candidate because it stays good tasting, but you take it in small doses. You're not like sh bang, knocking it back. Um so you know, you could do that. Um the but the the other thing is uh that I think you you know it's very difficult having tried to do this for you know my wife, you can make special drinks.
+
+[27:18] The other thing you can do to make make drinks uh more sippable, and I hesitate to do this because I don't like these kinds of drinks myself, but is to make them physically thick. So drinks that contain uh pureees uh tend to go down slower, but if you like them at all, tend to be enjoyable. Uh and it's especially good in the summer months as they as they come up. Uh so you can do like frozen things, things like smoothies, and you know, she'll feel good about the theoretical health benefits that she's getting from them, and uh and and also uh be sipping them uh slowly. So I hope I hope this is somewhat helpful.
+
+[27:53] What do you think, Peter? Did you have any uh Bisop while you're in Senegal, Dave? I had a whole boatload of uh of uh Bisop. That is one of my favorite summer refreshing beverages, and I'm wondering whether if you concentrated those flavors, that could become something more sippable. Oh, yeah.
+
+[28:06] Well, so bisop is good, it's a good good point. Bisop is uh uh known by a a bunch of different names Roselle, uh red sorrel, not to be confused with uh wood sorrel or the herb sorrel, uh it's hibiscus flour. And uh, you know, it's used in Africa where it's native, it's used a lot in the Caribbean and Mexico, where it's naturalized, uh, and uh makes a fantastic uh beverage. Uh the bisap that I had in Africa was of higher quality than the dried stuff that I get here. Uh, but I have used the stuff here and it's good.
+
+[28:39] You make like you make a tea. They actually make a delicious, also, they make a delicious bisop jelly in uh in West Africa, at least in Senegal, and it's amazing because it has the texture of apple butter, but with that really tart, acidic, fruity thing. So I think bisop would be great. Make a tea out of it, sweeten it. Uh, and then uh actually bisop and ginger works, and also bisop and mint works.
+
+[29:00] Or all three. Yeah, or all three together. And so, like a combination of mint, uh bisop and ginger could make a really great um um drink that could go on the sipping. If you make it a little bit weaker, then it's a pounder, and if you make it a little bit, you know, uh heavier in flavor, then it's more of a sipper. But the great thing about it is is that if you're a fan of the flavor, which I am, you don't tire of it when you're drinking it.
+
+[29:23] You know, you can drink uh you can drink a good bit of it. Good call, Peter. Right on. Good call. Uh all right.
+
+[29:29] Uh my other question is about uh coffee. Uh I do not have an espresso machine and would not be able to justify the expense of buying any new equipment. But would love to be able to make phone milk for our weekend coffee. I've tried to look for solutions on Coffee Geek and various other websites, but I've had no luck. I did find a video where someone seemed to be able to make a decent foam with the little wands you can buy at IKEA, but I've been unable to replicate this either uh uh either with the identical gadget or by the slightly more expensive one that Cooks Illustrated recommends.
+
+[29:53] What am I missing? Is steam an essential part of the process? Am I not getting the right temperature or just using the wrong uh vessel to hold the milk? Is there a stabilizer that might help? Uh I seem to be able to get a good foam when the milk is cold, but I can't seem to heal heat the milk up to even moderately drinkable temperatures like 60 uh Celsius and keep the foam or to foam the milk at higher temperatures.
+
+[30:10] The coffee geeks just laugh at me and say, I am SOL. Uh any ideas? Uh yeah, I think you're SOL. But here's the issue. Uh like many things, uh by the way, uh, you know, uh Alex has another question on on uh on coffee makers, but I'm gonna have to put that one off till next time, Alex.
+
+[30:30] But the the the deal is this. Um so the coffee coffee geek was one of the early websites that introduced uh I mean, so you know, those of you that have been making coffee for a while, uh, you know, know that's like the latte art movement kind of that came out of Seattle in the late 90s, I guess. 1990s, is that right? I mean, it's hard for me to look back. Uh, you know, David Schomer from Vivace was the first person I knew about who you know was widely talking about it, and I bought his book, you know, uh what's whatever it's called, professional barisa techniques, whatever, where he you know explains it.
+
+[31:04] Uh and uh, you know, amazing stuff. But to get that, the lot, you know, by the way, latte art, everyone knows what I'm talking about here, latte art, the pictures that you make by by you know doing the milk. And the highest form of it, you don't even touch the cup at all. It's just how you pour the milk makes it. But in order to do it, you need a very specific texture of milk, right?
+
+[31:19] Now the theory is that that texture of milk is also the most delicious texture of milk, but it's called a microfoam. And so uh there's a lot written in Coffee Geek about how to ch achieve microfoam. And that particular type of microfoam is produced by steaming, right? And trying to create that in any other way, I mean, you might be able to come up uh, uh or I might be, or you might be, someone might be able to come up with it with a similar textured product by doing a host of other things to it, but there's no simple way, right? Now here's the question.
+
+[31:51] Is that the best tasting foam? I don't know. It's a taste of foam. Is espresso the best taste of coffee? I think it is, but other people like other forms of coffee making.
+
+[32:01] So what I would do is stop trying to make latte art style foam in any other technique, and just find a foaming technique that you like that makes a taste that you like. You know, I you're I I've have very severe doubts that you're going to be able to without a lot of experimentation. And we could stabilize it and whip it, uh, but you know, the microfoam is a very specific, very dense, bubble-sized, very wet foam. And, you know, right? I mean, uh, you know, and just because you're different just because you get a different result doesn't mean it's necessarily worse.
+
+[32:34] You're just gonna have to use it in a different way. But I will think more about it and maybe talk about it more when I talk about your coffee questi coffee maker question later. Uh uh John Riper uh came in and he uh uh last week, unfortunately I wasn't here, I was in Senegal, and he gave us some really interesting hazelnuts. So I'll just read a little quick thing. So hazelnuts, we all know hazelnuts, a little round, but they're not all around.
+
+[32:56] There's a variety called the Ducilli uh uh hazelnut that is long, almost looks almondy and looks like woody on the outside. So uh John dropped by some, these are like these are like super like uh old cultivar heritage uh heirloom variety of uh hazelnuts. And uh he dropped by some roasted ones and uh unroasted ones and was talking about the um what happens to the development of flavor in hazelnuts as as they're roasted. So since I just got back yesterday, I tasted them, but I haven't had time to do a lot of experimenting. So next week, John, I'm gonna go more into about these different things.
+
+[33:28] But you guys should take a look at these Ducilli uh hazelnuts. They're supposed to have a thinner skin and therefore be less bitter than uh their their smaller, rounder uh berethrin, but they're uh susceptible to certain diseases, and that's why they're not grown much. If you want to research it well, I'm uh until before I can get back to you guys. Go to Homequist uh orchards where they grow them in uh in Washington. Okay, um Robin writes in about meat grinders.
+
+[33:55] Dave, please say some words about meat grinders. I'm primarily using a meat grinder for making dog food from chicken, turkey, and rabbit parts. So I need something uh powerful enough to not bog down uh grinding soft bones uh and uh with a fill hole that will accommodate something as large as a chicken leg without me having to further invest in a meat cleaver to cut up the parts so they're small enough to fit in a chute. I made the mistake of purchasing an LEM number five 0.2 horsepower motor grinder sold by your local sporting goods big box store. It is underpowered.
+
+[34:21] It is underpowered. The fuse had to be reset frequently, even though I'm not forcing the meat through, and it is overheating and smoking. It requires disassembly to unjam it and was a waste of money. It is going back to the store tomorrow without breaking the bank. What do you recommend?
+
+[34:35] It will serve me well. Thanks for the brilliant radio show. Uh all y'all, Robin. Okay, here's the deal. So, Peter, you might be asking yourself, why would they want to grow grind the bones?
+
+[34:45] Oh, I am asking myself that very question. Well, remember, they're making dog food. So the thing is dogs uh calcium supposes. There's a movement called the barf diet, which the acronym can mean different things, but like bones and raw food diet for dogs, and you grind up the the bones whole, so the dogs take in the whole thing. Cats also.
+
+[35:01] Have to be careful not to do uh not to do it with cooked bones because uh cooked bones uh are very sharp and can damage the uh insides of the of uh you know your animal. And then there's the debate of whether or not there's microbial problems doing a raw food diet when you feed it to an animal, blah blah blah. But I'm not getting into that. We're getting into whether it grinded. Now I've never thought about this problem, uh, but I did some I did some research.
+
+[35:21] Turns out that the LEM that you looked at uh that you have, the LEM um uh number five uh quarter horsepower one, which sells on uh Amazon for 1969, uh has a quarter horsepower power motor, it's pretty small motor. The good news about that grinder that you have that you hate is that uh the gears are all metal and so they're really tough and it's all stainless, so all that's really tough. But that motor is underpowered, and so it's gonna jam, overheat, and the fuse will blow. Or it's not really probably the fuse, it's probably the thermal overload in it. So that's probably what's happening.
+
+[35:54] So the solution to that is they do make a larger motor one. Uh they make a 0.375 horsepower, which is only $70 more, $267, you can go get, and that might be a solution. I've heard other people say that that one grinds chicken bones better. Uh, you know, then you like, you know, if you really without breaking the bank, that's the problem. The larger ones can do it.
+
+[36:17] So the Weston uh the Weston number 22 professional on the Amazon for $551, everyone says that grinds through chicken like nobody's business, right? Uh but uh, you know, that's well over twice, almost three times the cost of the one that you had. Um if you go on the on uh it's still on eBay now. If you look at the STX TurboForce 3000 series, you like that? STX Turboforce 3000.
+
+[36:43] They say it's uh it's 150 bucks. They say that it is uh 3,000 watts. And they admit, if you look at the, it's really interesting, actually, if you look at the things. The thing with with motors of all types is people you have to ask someone how they rate it. So I'm assuming that when LEM is rating their motors, they're actually talking shhaft horsepower, power at the shaft, right?
+
+[37:03] Which is different from the input power into the machine, right? Because motors aren't 100% efficient. So it's a question of how you do it. One 740 something watts is one horsepower, right? Uh so these guys say that the STX Turboforce 3,000 is 3,000 watt, but that's a load of malarkey.
+
+[37:19] That's you know, that's the motor, as my dad would always say, that's the motor, like as it's about to explode from burning out, like when you're holding the shaft and plugging it in and drawing all the current that you possibly can and everything's blowing up and dying, right? Uh or peak impulse death power as he calls it. I'm imagining back to the future uh dock, you know. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Like bolts everywhere.
+
+[37:39] Yeah, exactly. So uh in reality, this 3,000 watt monstrosity is is actually closer to three quarters of a horsepower in real life. But that's still significantly more powerful than the one you have. It has uh some plastic gears, but they claim that these plastic gears uh don't break. It does have a guarantee.
+
+[37:57] It also has something you might be interested in called a reverse switch, so that you can reverse the machinery to unjam it without disassembling it. So if you do jam it, there you go. Now, there are a number of people on the reviewing things that say they've ground chicken bones, and then there's a number of people who call BS on that and say sucker doesn't grind chicken bones that well, right? So, what those guys say is that to really grind chicken bones, you gotta freeze the debone your thighs or legs, freeze the thighs, break them with a hammer, and then grind them in, which is what they say to do. But clearly you don't want to do this because you don't want to cleave it up, you say, with a meat cleaver.
+
+[38:31] So, you know, I'm not sure where to go with that. Uh, but it is on Amazon, it does have a return policy, so you might be able to, you know, test your luck, and it is even cheaper than the one you already had. Uh okay. Alex uh wrote in uh different Alex wrote in with questions about uh mocha pots. You know mocha pots, Peter?
+
+[38:52] Yeah. Yeah. You know, the ones that you put on the stove and they're little, they're like made out of aluminum usually and they they make coffee. Actually, you know, I used to use them. They're they're again they're not espresso.
+
+[39:00] People make that mistake. Mocha cup is its own kind of cup, it's not an espresso. So uh Alex has questions on the mocha process. But I think what I'm gonna do, Alex, is fold your question on mocha pots into the other question on coffee that the other Alex asked, and we'll talk about them both on the next show. Since apparently my time here is drawing nigh, right?
+
+[39:18] Yep. Right? Okay. So to quickly to rip through, uh, got some Twitter questions in. Uh Elliot Pabanow writes in, any problems with infusing chopped hazelnuts?
+
+[39:26] I mean, so it's a hazelnut show. It's always happens, man. Uh chopped hazelnuts into cream with an ISI. I mean, I don't know how much of a flavor your uh impact you're gonna get off of uh just infusion without heat and an ISI because nuts aren't that porous. Usually you do a heat infusion or better yet, grind them and make like a nut milk.
+
+[39:42] That's the way I would do it. Grind and make a nut milk and then strain this stuff out. I think that's the best way you're gonna go. I don't know that ISI is gonna be the technique to use with that. But of course, uh I'm probably wrong as usually um.
+
+[39:52] Terry Tinton writes in, hey, have you ever tried creating your own aero chocolate bar? No, I have not. Although, actually, that's not true. I mean, I've made the aerated chocolate before with uh with a vacuum machine, but uh what I would do is go look at uh Heston uh Blumenthal has done uh a lot of work with that. He has a recipe online.
+
+[40:07] Uh you need a uh a vacuum machine and a way to set it uh set it in the freezer, but it's not technically difficult. I've never actually done it though. But Heston's recipe is out there for all to read. So uh, you know, go check it out. If you have more questions or problems on it, uh hit me back on it.
+
+[40:23] Peter, you got uh the Tony uh Harrion has a question in there about uh on the Twitter feed uh about uh freezing and thawing to increase or change the flavor of juice extraction. Uh freezing and thawing ruptures cells, and so therefore will theoretically increase the yield of juice, but I've never done an actual test on it. I will look up over the course of the week uh hopefully whether or not um whether or not there's any studies that I can publish, and then I'll talk about my experiences of the differences in flavor of for instance like frozen thawed lemons and also uh its effect on uh astringency and tannin and things like persimmons, where you can clearly reduce the tannin and the astringency by freezing and thawing. But that's slightly different from what it does to the juice. That's just the flavor change from overall freezing and thawing.
+
+[41:04] Any other questions there you see on the Twitter right away? Uh we got let's see here. Uh Alvin Schultz. Give me some. All right.
+
+[41:11] I want to make large format clear ice at home. Have a chamber vac, rotovap, liquid nitrogen, and a crappy home freezer. Okay, no problem. Go buy an igloo cooler, uh, you know, a square one, rip the top off of it. Uh use hot water, pour it uh if you can use relatively pure hot water, right?
+
+[41:31] Pour it in to the uh warm water. You don't have to you can let it cool down. Don't put it hot into your freezer, you're gonna screw all your stuff. The reason for hot, less dissolved gases, right? Right?
+
+[41:40] Right. Uh it's not strictly speaking necessary, but you know, do it. Warm water even. Then uh put it in the freezer and let it sit for uh you know a number of days. Uh should take like two days, maybe a day, day to two days, test it, right?
+
+[41:53] What's gonna happen is is that the uh the energy is gonna go into the ice uh preferentially through the top, and so you're gonna freeze from the top down. Therefore, all the stuff at the top will be clear as you expel out uh the various impurities at the ice uh water layer that's in the bottom. Then uh pull it out of the freezer before it totally freezes solid, or you can let it freeze totally solid, but the bottom of it's gonna be crappy. Uh let it temper out, pop it out of the igloo, saw off any bad parts that are on the bottom only when it's tempered, and there you go. Should work.
+
+[42:24] Yeah? Yeah. Okay. Uh now, uh, how long do I have? Like three minutes.
+
+[42:32] What do I have, Joe? Three minutes? Yeah, you've got like three minutes. Yeah, exactly. 1257.
+
+[42:38] And we need and we need to go off right at one? You can go a little bit later. All right, so here's here's what we're gonna do. I know I didn't take any commercial breaks today, but because it because we're I'm running late. So what I'm gonna do is is that on the out of the show, can we go to the actual commercial break so we can play our sponsor?
+
+[42:52] By the way, the our sponsor today is Joe. Uh it is the chef's step from Chris Young. Right. So Chris Young, who has been a guest on this show before, is one of the authors of Modernist Cuisine, uh, but not Modernist Cuisine at home. But it's an interesting little dig that he had to save the 500 bucks.
+
+[43:12] That's kind of an interesting little dig. I just met with our friend Michael Natkin yesterday at Booker. By the way, big congratulations to all of our friends who are winners at the James Beard uh last night, including uh Wiley Dufresne, brother in law, Brooks, Brooks Headley from Del Posto, Del Posto itself, and then a bunch of other people. I didn't uh I don't have the full list in front of me, but a bunch of good people uh won. That's great.
+
+[43:34] Anyway, so uh Michael Natkin uh talked to him at the bar yesterday, the writer for the uh Herbivracious uh website and cookbook. Also working with Chris on this project. And uh so I was talking to him about it. You know, maybe maybe we'll do some work with them at some point. But I found out that they were a sponsor of the show.
+
+[43:50] We love them. Uh great guys, you know, all all best, all love. So but I love that little dig, right? Yeah. Save 500 bucks.
+
+[43:57] I figured they're targeting two very different markets there, though. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Anyway.
+
+[44:03] Uh just thought it was fun. Anyway. So uh and uh and uh by the way, I hope I Michael I wanted to force him to come on the show today, but he had to go back uh back home. But I hope to get all of those guys maybe back on the radio here at some point, uh, and then you guys can all ask questions of them. Okay.
+
+[44:17] Uh before I go to the last question, since I can go a little long, let's talk a little Africa stuff. So when I was in uh Senegal, I think the most striking thing I'm just talking food now, right? Yeah. The the most striking thing uh about the food was there seems to be a uh much more of a continuum b uh between uh the uh unfermented and the fermented in West African food than we would get in the States, right? So a lot more fermented grain products, like a lot more products of uh fermentation in all of their grays.
+
+[44:47] Was that your experience down in Cameroon as well? Yeah, man. At those temperatures, everything just starts fermenting, you know. Right, but it's all done in other words, like it's like part of the flavor. So, you know, like porridges will be fermented.
+
+[44:58] Yeah. Uh, you know, so you they have like uh they have a this awesome millet um porridge called Flamday in uh in Senegal that is um you know it's fermented millet porridge and it's served with fermented kind of thin milk yogurt on top and like a little bit of sugar. And it's great. Yeah what I mean. And is the flavor that you don't uh get here.
+
+[45:18] Or you know, the the main starches that uh, you know, will be made into uh gruels, uh you know, or batters fermented and then uh and then cooked off, you know, so like various fermented uh foo foos and things like that. Oh yeah. But one of the interesting things I had that's from Cameroon, and maybe you remember the name of it, uh 'cause I can't remember the name of it because I I couldn't write it down. I had it was very interesting, and it was uh it was manioc, cassette. Oh, I love it in sticks like gummy like a rice cake?
+
+[45:46] Yes. Had the texture of mochi but it's fermented. Yeah. Do you have this? Yes.
+
+[45:50] What's the name of it? Well in Cameroon there are a lot of different names but the most common was one was just baton de manioc which just means manioc stick. Right? Yeah. Okay.
+
+[45:58] So uh they have a real bouncy texture like mochi, right? I love it. And they're fermented and they're th like the first bite you're like, am I gonna like this? But they're s freaking addictive. Amazing.
+
+[46:09] Yeah. So but here's the interesting thing. The particular one I had had been you know made by the cook was house made. And the particular fermented flavor of this one was unlike most of the other fermentations that I had had in that it didn't taste like a lactic acid bacteria to me, the one I had. It tasted the most similar uh fermentation taste I could put on it was salt risen bread.
+
+[46:32] And salt risen bread, which was talked about on the show before is like a very kind of like weird old like kind of rare bread technique from the Appalachians where the main fermentation agent is Clostridium Phringens which normally is a foodborne you know illness pat you know it's pathogen caused a lot of problems. But um when the one time I made salt raised bread one or twice it this had a s that similar fermented flavor but I haven't had time to research it yet. But did you notice in Cameroon that they had a different kind of fermented flavor from other things or is it the same or it's hard for me to say man. It's just uh it's just a great taste man I love it. Alright so I'm gonna go back and do some research on that.
+
+[47:10] Uh the other thing you know that they they have there's so many fermented products over there. And my one of my favorite fermented products in the world it was in Cameroon. Which one? Palm wine. Oh yes.
+
+[47:19] You know what? The palm wine and first of all, Senegal is predominantly Muslim, right? And in fact, they had me serve an alcoholic beverage at this event and didn't put a French translator next to me. And so I was in a position, my French isn't my accent's not good enough to immediately tell people. So these people descended on us and then people started picking up the drink and drinking it.
+
+[47:39] It was made with mod which is an ama M A D D or M-A-A-D or M-A-D-E, which is an amazing fruit from Casimance, which is in southern Senegal. It's an amazing fruit fruit. It has like kind of like it tastes like kind of passion fruit and like kind of got but a lot of acidity more acidic tart in the way lime is tart, not in the way that Pash food's tart, but like passion fruit and a dump bunch of different other tropical fruits, like maybe some Guanambana flavor in it. And I made a juice out of it. You know, I tried to do Booker and Dax but like low text style, so like I strained it.
+
+[48:07] It was really pure and mixed it with rum. Fantastic. I wish we could get this fruit here. Anyway, so they're picking it up and like one person does a spit take I'm like it's got alcohol in it. And then like they eventually posted a like a hostess next to me who literally just stood there like wagging her finger back and forth like no no I'm like well you know don't do that.
+
+[48:25] It's not poisonous. You know and some of the people here aren't aren't aren't you know Muslim. They can have it but I I was like I was like what what what is going wrong with my life that I'm here in a Muslim country trying to serve alcohol to people. Like it's exactly like the worst thing it could happen. But the drink was in fact delicious.
+
+[48:41] Do they have netatu in in Cameroon or no? I don't know what netatou is Cameroon. Uh netatu is the fermented uh seeds of uh some uh acacia tree and uh it's amazing stuff uh the I forget the the genus name but the species of it is big lobosa big lobosa name uh sick name. Netta too big lobosa. Like uh but it has a taste that's it's used in a lot of stews like oh and like other things like Tibu Gen, which is like the traditional, you know, national Senegalese dish.
+
+[49:12] But it has um in it uh it has the flavors of like coffee and chocolate and black bean. So it's like really kind of and it's it's uh boiled and fermented. Uh you know, boil the boil the uh the seeds and the pods, ferment them and then salt them and let them dry. Uh fermented onion that that's used in things that put in balls, fermented fish is famous like geg, fermented conch, yet, which is amazing. But like all these fermented things.
+
+[49:36] But what people don't uh I mean the smells in the market can be overpowering, but the foods aren't at all like that overpowering. They're just really, I thought really delicious, uh really interesting, unique flavors, and I'm definitely gonna be working with them in the future. You know what I mean? Yeah. And the camera the one Cameroonian restaurant I went to, the food was amazing.
+
+[49:54] I'm can't wait to go to the Cameroon uh area there. I've heard it's like just the the fruits and vegetables and stuff, just good stuff, yeah. There's an insane culinary diversity in that country. Yeah, I mean, there's just a lot going on in West Africa in general. So I just had the the very like the smallest taste of it going to uh Senegal, and I hope to be going back at at some point.
+
+[50:12] I think it's one of the the most uh undiscovered collection of cuisines in the world. Well, West African cuisine. You know, that's in in part, you know, and all of sub-Saharan Africa, frankly, you know what I mean, is like that. And that's the reason uh that we were doing this thing. Pierre Cham, uh, you know, uh friend of friend of ours who uh you know had a restaurant Grand Dakar in uh Brooklyn is from Senegal, and uh, you know, uh I I'd spoken to him about organizing a series of trips a couple years ago and he finally made it happen, even though you know I I have you know I've been too busy, I haven't done it.
+
+[50:41] But the the basic idea is is that in Africa when foreigners come they feed them non-traditional food because they assume that you know that you know, Western or you know, with like Euro Euro and American style folks don't want the traditional food. Yeah, right? Which is as far as like people nowadays, like people like myself or other like gastro tourists or you know, uh gastro tourism, which is a big thing, they don't want fake food. You know, like I say, if you if I want French food, I'll go to France. If I'm gonna fly somewhere, I wanna learn about the food that's from there, right?
+
+[51:11] Uh so there's that. They're showing people there that outsiders respect the indigenous stuff and that that's what they should do. And then there's the flip side is that we don't know hardly anything about it, and there's a lot to learn. There's as much diversity and interest and amazing stuff going on there as, you know, any one of the Asian cultures that everyone here knows all the minutia of, or any one of the European cultures that everyone knows all the minutiae of the food products from, right? And yet there's not the exposure uh to it and therefore not that level of interest.
+
+[51:41] So when I went there I did a talk actually, and I tried to point out like, look, you know, in uh in here in the US, I was like, take a look at Sean Brock, who's been doing like high level work with you know, specifically South Carolina stuff, right? And so he's doing some amazing work, but that's you know, not that much of a stretch because he's you know here and people, you know, respect that's going on. I was like, okay, well, you know, look at uh, you know, twenty years to ten years ago even, ten years ago, who thought about Danish food? Right. Did you?
+
+[52:08] No, no. Now all that stuff's now all the rage. Why? Because of Rennie Radzepi. So I put Rennie Radzeppi up and I put Alex uh Atla from uh DOM in uh Brazil, who's like, you know, everyone in South America looks at what happened at that restaurant and how he's using uh incredibly local products to do this really high end work.
+
+[52:26] So he's not doing French work uh that happens to have a couple local ingredients. He's like using modern cooking techniques and using incredibly local ingredients. And the advantage is is it can't be copied. You can't copy that restaurant somewhere else because you don't have access to the ingredients. Same goes for Noma, same goes for uh Sean, you know, down in uh in uh South Carolina, is they have cuisines that are respected the world over and that can't be copied, so you need to go travel to have it.
+
+[52:51] And you know, I said that this may seem irrelevant to you, as it says to people, in a country where you know, a huge percentage of you know your population is suffering from problems like iron deficiency, you know what I mean, uh and other things. But in fact, we can you can you know you could generate some good revenue if you you know if you do it. I don't know. Uh and of course, introducing people to these these culinary sort of treasures around the world is one of the major goals of the Museum of Food and Drink. Oh yes, oh yes, so much so, yes.
+
+[53:21] Um anyway, so we'll talk more about maybe some of the other like Baobab. Do they have Baobab stuff down here? Oh, it's my favorite tree in the world. That's a good tree, right? That's an awesome tree.
+
+[53:29] Baobab. It's it's called something like bouilly or something in Wolof, but I don't know what it's called down on the camera. But it yeah, it's a guy they use every part of the dang tree, and plus they're just really cool looking. They're amazing. Yeah.
+
+[53:39] So we'll talk more about this. Uh, you know, I have some I don't even bring it with me, the bailo bab candy. I'll bring you some. I I still think I still have some left. I'm not sure.
+
+[53:45] Okay. Last question on the way out. Uh, and then on the way out, remember Joe, we're gonna play uh our commercial uh break sponsors because I didn't go to a commercial break today. You got it. Uh SB writes in, says, Greetings from Paris.
+
+[53:58] Alright. Yeah, Paris. The uh fourth season of Top Chef has just ended here in France, and I wanted to get your views on culinary competitions in general. So already it sounds like a good question, right? Right?
+
+[54:10] Yeah. Uh more specifically, do top chef or iron chef like shows really crown good cooks, or is it more of a mix of luck, contestant personality, etcetera? What do you think of the professional competitions, such as the beaucoup d'or that's the uh the Bokus of Gold, as we say here in the in the US of A the Pacry World Cup or the MOF which sp stands for uh oh something may you know something over your francaise the the anyway like butt kicking of Frenchness which by the way isn't just for chefs it's for any sort of there's a whole list of crafts that you can have MOF in France uh and others also feel free to say bad things about Hervé Tisse okay SB well uh he is actually one of the very few people in the food world that I don't have a compunction just saying bad things about because he uh A doesn't care whether or not Americans say bad things about him and B he is a huckster charlatan uh and says crazy false things all the time and I always hold up against him Harold McGee who is uh you know uh awesome so they're kind of like opposites you know what I mean yeah yeah Ervete who thinks that uh cooking an egg in an oven is a good way to measure how it responds to temperatures which whatever don't don't you know what SB don't get me started don't get me started because then you know I only have a couple minutes to answer your your regular question. So my thing on this is is that uh contests contests clearly measure something the question is what do they measure right so you know one thing you can look at is uh you know which ones do chefs watch right so chefs uh used to I don't know if they still do uh watch Iron Chef like they like it right that was one of the very first uh contest shows that chefs actually wanted to be on, right? So Wiley, uh, who you know didn't was like I don't food TV, I hate food TV.
+
+[56:09] He doesn't talk like that. But anyway, but he said that uh why do I always use voices that aren't people like anything like the people that I'm talking about? Is it just I don't know why? I don't know why. Uh anyway, uh uh when he got the opportunity to do Iron Chef was like, yes, I want to do it.
+
+[56:22] Everybody has respect for the uh uh or you know, again, I haven't spoken to people about it in a while, but respect for the Iron Chef brand. Um and it is a mixture of personality, right? Because a lot of it's about uh, you know, you have to talk to the judges. It's you know, there's some sales shit, you know, sales, you know, selling that's going on when you're talking, but it it also is real cooking task, and you know, you do interesting stuff and it's and it's respected. Um, you know, uh a lot of chefs have done top chef masters, and the reason they do it isn't necessarily because they like the format of the of the show.
+
+[56:57] I mean, to be very um, you know, kind of blunt, uh, you get a big pop in the restaurant after you do the show, whether you win or you lose, right? So it's good for business to do it, and it's good for in and it's a it's kind of a mark that you've done it that allows you to then do other things. So it's there's an advantage to doing it. You know, and what does it measure? I don't know.
+
+[57:19] You know, like you know, does it measure like how much you would like the food that someone cooked had were they thinking about the food beforehand? You know what I mean? So when you're put in a situation where I so Iron Chef, for those of you that don't know, okay, iron when you do Iron Chef, it's not like someone's like uh walks up to you and says, uh widgety grubs, and then it's the first time you've heard that this widgety grubs, and then you have you create all these amazing dishes in an hour from widgety grubs, right? Because if those iron chefs could actually do that, then I would, you know, I would quit my job and spend all of my time just bowing at their knees. You know what I mean that's in fact not what happens on Iron Chef.
+
+[58:02] What happens on Iron Chef is you're given a list of of three or four I forget what it is possible uh things that it could be and you practice those recipes a bunch of times to make sure you can clock in in under an hour that's what happens now uh it there's an extreme advantage to the Iron Chef because they're used to the kitchen and a lot of inefficiency comes from not being used to a kitchen but that but there you have it so uh so like it but still you know it it's a lot different from cooking in your own element with ingredients that you choose yourself and these things like chopped where you'd have no idea what's going on are extremely different. So someone winning in that circumstance isn't the same thing as someone who would make them necessarily the most delicious food at their restaurant or even at your house because at your house time management isn't as important as it is in Iron Chef. Iron Chef is as much about time management as it is about anything else. Because in Iron Chef the goal really is to produce a bunch of impressive crap in an hour. You know what I mean?
+
+[59:01] So it's like really a time management thing which is actually a fantastic measure of a chef. Chef needs good time management. Not necessarily uh the best indicator of who is in absolute terms the best cook right so I mean these are they're all measuring different things and you have to look now things like the I also you know think that most outside accolades are kind of absurd because again they're also not necessarily measuring things that might be important in the real world that said MOF is pretty badass. You know what I mean? Yeah, anyone that has an MOF, you can pretty much guarantee that they're a badass.
+
+[59:34] Saying Boku's door, if you win the Boku's door, you're a badass. I mean, like, that's all there is to it, just because it's incredibly, incredibly difficult, right? So if someone climbs Mount Everest without oxygen, right, are they the world's best human being? No, but it's pretty badass. I mean, I think it's I think it's personally dumb to try and climb climb Mount Everest.
+
+[59:54] And I also myself wouldn't want to spend the amount of time in my life it would take to get close to uh uh winning any one of these competitions, if I even could. You know what I mean? But they are a measure of badassery. What do you think? Uh I don't know if you know about this, know this about me, Dave, but I actually competed in a cooking competition once.
+
+[1:00:11] Yeah? Almost 100,000 making a burger. How what how was the burger? Uh I mean, the thing is, this speaks to your point. I'm not a great cook.
+
+[1:00:19] I'm you know, I can practice something and do it well eventually, and that's precisely what I did in this situation. It was actually a Sutter home burger competition. The prize was $100,000. I came in second place, like lost by one point out of the 235. So what do you get?
+
+[1:00:32] Just like a boatload of Merlot? I got nothing. No, nothing. Actually, the second prize was $500. So it's a hundred thousand first pri first place, then five hundred dollars.
+
+[1:00:41] Third prize you're fired. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah, yeah. But you know, I basically I think it's it's how a measure of how well you play the rules of that particular game. Yeah, also, yeah, in bar competitions, a lot of it's about the pattern and the speech and kind of what you do and how well you can smooch the judges.
+
+[1:00:54] And to be honest, like it depending on like some things are, you know, uh judges are incredibly biased, you know, and you could just have uh a bad judge and you can have this. So, you know, they yes, they do measure something, uh, but take take you know anything like that with a grain of salt. I personally detest competitions. Unless they are unl like the only competitions that I that I kind of enjoy are ones that are quantitative in nature that you can win or you can lose. You know what I mean?
+
+[1:01:26] Like who's in contest? Juicing Contests, which I lost, unfortunately last time I was in one, and embarrassed myself in front of my kids, and my kids have vowed to uh revenge me later. I was embarrassed myself, too. Yeah, yeah, yeah. See?
+
+[1:01:39] There you go. And uh, you know, or you know, soccer game, who gets the most goals. Anyway, but that that's me. Uh, but I'm a curmudgeon and a weasel and uh and a hard person to to deal with. Uh so uh more next week.
+
+[1:01:53] Thanks, Peter, for coming in. Ready for the commercial break and on out with cooking issues. Do you want to become a more creative cook? Are you interested in cutting edge cooking techniques? Do you find the science of cooking fascinating?
+
+[1:02:08] You could buy modernist cuisine, or you can save yourself four hundred and fifty dollars and check out chefsteps.com. Founded by Chris Young, Ryan Matthew Smith, and Grant Krille, all alumni of the creative team behind Modernist Cuisine. Chef Steps is loaded with reliable recipes, thorough step-by-step demonstrations, and supported with clear explanations of the underlying science that answers the why behind the how. And through our forum, you can engage with our team as well as a friendly community of curious cooks from around the world. And Chef Steps is entirely free to learn.
+
+[1:02:52] Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization.
+
+[1:03:14] To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] This is Chris Young, co-author of Modernist Cuisine. I'd like to invite you to check out ChefSteps.com. It's a free website we've created as a place to learn new cooking techniques and collaborate with curious cooks from around the world. Sign up now at Chefsteps.com. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.org, a nonprofit member supported radio station.
+
+[0:21] We're millions strong. With folks tuning in from over 200 countries. We are education. We are entertainment. We are the future of food.
+
+[0:31] May is our membership drive. Become a member and support us while receiving the newsletters, advanced invites, special discounts, and a membership card. We need your support. Visit our website and click the donate button to become a member today. Thank you for believing in us and enjoy the show.
+
+[0:54] Cooking issues. Cooking issues! Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from a vertical speech in Bushwick, Brooklyn on the Heritage Radio Network, every Tuesday from roughly 12 to roughly 1245. Joined in the studio uh again, uh normal we're normal style today with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez.
+
+[1:44] How are you doing, Stas? Okay. Yeah? Yeah. Jack decided not to join us today.
+
+[1:48] I don't know what that's all about, but we have Joe. Hey Joe, how are you doing? I'm doing great. How are you guys? I'm doing alright.
+
+[1:53] I was listening to the uh little blurb we have at the uh beginning there. And you know they they have a word for something that's both entertainment and information. It's edutainment. Isn't that right? Yeah.
+
+[2:04] Edutainment. Yeah, sounds right. So we edu edutain what how would you say that? Edutainable? Edutainment?
+
+[2:11] Anyway, whatever. Anyway, calling your questions to 7184972128. That's 7184972128. Hope to be joined uh soon on the telephone with uh the uh one of the sponsors from today's show, Chris Young from uh Chef Steps and Modernist Cuisine. And in fact, he's a um bit of a coffee nut.
+
+[2:30] So I have some coffee questions that I put off uh from last time and some also I think ones from this time. So I'm gonna hold off on those until Chris calls in so I can get him to weigh in on as well. By the way, Stas, how did uh Mark's uh barbecue, his Italian barbecue go? Really well. Yeah?
+
+[2:43] Lots of people. It raised a lot of money, I think. Yeah? Uh like uh what how was how was the food? Pretty okay.
+
+[2:49] Oh, Stas with her with her uh Ray Ray Ray reviews of everything. Okay. Hey, uh, we have a caller. Oh my god. All right, caller.
+
+[3:00] Caller, you're on the air. Hey Hey Dave, this is Chris from Seattle. How are you? Hey, doing all right, doing all right. So uh Joe, this is Chris Young, our sponsor from today.
+
+[3:08] Oh yes. Do we have the opportunity to take other calls in as well or or no? Uh we have one line open still, so all right. So for those of you that want to pester Chris with any of your modernist and or non modernist, and or when he was working at Fat Duck and or gliding, because he's a glider pilot. If you have any uh I didn't realize you knew that.
+
+[3:30] Oh yeah, oh yeah. So if you have any questions relating to any of those things, uh call on in. How you doing, Chris? I'm doing well, man. How are you?
+
+[3:38] Yeah, it's been a while. Yeah, I know. When you when are you in New York next? Uh I don't know. When you uh when are you gonna invite me out for drinks.
+
+[3:45] Oh, you are always welcome at the bar for drinks, Chris. But uh I uh uh well I've just about recovered from my last trip to New York, so uh when I when I lose any sort of a judgment, I'll be back out. But uh exactly. Well, so now are you still spending all of your time in Seattle? Or sh now where is Chef's B sh uh Chef Steps?
+
+[4:03] It's based in several locations or how's it working? No, we are in we're a we have a four thousand square foot space in Seattle's Pike Place Market overlooking the water, and so we've built out our own experimental kitchen and and tooled it up. We have our software developers and and entire production team here. We do have a bit of a hardware engineering lab just south of Seattle in Georgetown and uh a couple employees uh in Chicago and LA, but other than that, we're here. Nice.
+
+[4:32] Well I have to come out and visit you guys sometimes. Yeah, you absolutely should. I I was thinking we maybe need like a an East Coast, West Coast uh uh cocktail challenge. We we've we've got we've got our own uh fairly talented bar bar staff here as well. Oh yeah?
+
+[4:46] Well, I'm down for a challenge. What would the challenge be? Uh I I I know you well it it's your show. Uh what what do you think it should be? Man, I don't know.
+
+[4:56] I mean uh you know that my particular my particular bent is towards things that uh look somewhat normal. Uh huh. Like Stas, what do you think of a good challenge would be? I'm actually I need a good challenge. I was just saying the other day, like I need a new cocktail problem to solve, not just a new ingredient or taste, but it's a whole new problem to solve.
+
+[5:16] Can you think of any, Chris? Or should we leave this open to our readers? Like what what or listeners rather? I I I'd actually like to hear from your from your viewers. I've always found uh I certainly find in our forum that the best the biggest challenges tend to come from unexpected places.
+
+[5:29] Yeah. Although although being barbecue season, uh you know I'm certainly have you done much with uh with smoke and cocktails. In drinks? No, I'll tell you why there's been a a bunch of people who have done a lot of work with it already and so you know I I I tend to do the hardest work in places where I think there's a lot a lot lot more work to do, but there is a lot more you know the a lot of the problems I think I have with people when they've smoked the cocktails is they take they tend to use uh they tend to use uh kind of those uh those uh small format uh smoke generators and uh when they when when you over smoke a drink with that it tends to take on more of kind of the over phenolicy burnt uh flavors from it and it can be hard for those it can be hard for people to dose I mean I think the best results I've seen are actually from more of the smoky flavor off of charred chips and whatnot. I've seen I've seen good results off of that and had good results off that obviously smoke and alcohol go together.
+
+[6:29] I mean have you done any good experiments with it or not? Well yeah we just uh we just did a cocktail uh we've done a couple things we did uh we did one where we take charred oak chips and we pressure infuse it with an ISI siphon uh um uh to basically get uh a rapid aging of the of the bourbon and and that sort of smoky flavor and that's that's fantastic and we have another cocktail where we uh we use charred cinnamon sticks at some uh a cocktail we call church old breakfast yeah how and how's that one come out no that uh that one's delicious. Um, I will happily drink that just about any day. I've had good luck with the ISI and uh and oak doing like a semi char semi-oak at the same time. But my favorite way to add wood is of course to take an age spirit that I like, rotovap it so that I have the uh I have the oak left over and then add it back to my other unaged stuff.
+
+[7:22] I mean that's stuff that's fantastic stuff it's a little bit pricey and out out of the range of most people working, but Hey Chris and Dave, we have uh a caller for both of you. Oh yeah? Yeah. All right, caller, you're on the air. What's up?
+
+[7:34] Hey, uh this is Iboda collin from Silver Spring, Maryland. How you doing? Um good, good. Uh so I had a qu I had a couple of questions uh for you and for Chris. Uh first I'd like to say, uh, you know, just that's really impressive, uh it's an amazing, amazing resource.
+
+[7:50] I have minor Susan and Minor's within at home, but it's always fantastic the videos. Just the the breakdown that everything is done on there. Really really great work. So thank you for that. Well thank you.
+
+[8:03] Um so I my friend and I are throwing kind of like an ice cream party uh tomorrow. And we didn't have time to do a lot of side by side tests with one of the recipes that we were doing, but uh one of the things we were doing was a recipe from the uh Humphrey Locum restaurant in uh I think San Francisco. It looks like an ice cream book. And it's um strawberry and candied jalapeno. So the candied jalapeno we make by, you know, just uh taking out the seeds and the ribs and then just uh cooking it with simple syrup.
+
+[8:37] So we were kind of expecting that it would there would still be some heat left over in the jalapeno, but there really wasn't anything that we could discern, both in the jalapeno itself and then in the syrup, you know, that had kind of like the infusion afterwards. So we were wondering if that was because the the recipe was kind of imprecise, it was just like one jalapeno. So it didn't say how big, how much um and you know they can vary in terms of their heat. But is do you do you know if if if there's some issue that uh the caps and it gets kind of neutralized when you go through that process. Uh would it make a difference if we use more I I I'd like to I I want to get a little clarification here.
+
+[9:18] Is the halo is the jalapeno going in a dairy base and is that when you lose the heat or is it after you poached it in the sugar syrup that the heat seems to be diminished. Uh it seemed to be after the syrup it went in the syrup. I mean there was there was nothing there was no no trace of anything in the syrup either besides for the kind of the the um floral notes of the jalapeno itself. Did you eat the jalapeno did you eat a portion of the jalapeno beforehand to verify that it was indeed spicy? No, no we didn't but that you know that's that's a that's a fair point because it would milk kind of takes away the uh the heat right well the the the capsaicin is fairly soluble in in fat.
+
+[9:55] So when you when you put you know when you put the the the the the chilies in an an ice cream base y absolutely it's gonna diminish the fat. I've made I've made habanero ice cream that would be un inedible if it if it wasn't dissolved in in that much fat. But if you're losing the heat during in the syrup, there's really only two things that come to my mind and Dave jump in here if you see it differently. But one, my best bet would be my my first guess would be the jalapeno you had just wasn't very hot to begin with. Yeah.
+
+[10:21] Um and the second thing is I don't know how much syrup you were using, but you're going to dilute some of the capsaicin down in that syrup and and if you take a fairly small amount of cact taste can be split and dilute it down in a large amount of syrup um it's not gonna your end result's not gonna be very hot. So if you want a little bit more heat, I might look uh you know, I might look to using something other than a jalap a jalapeno. Yeah, but that said, if you take a jalapeno and slice it thin, even in a relatively like if it's a if it's a you know a good you know a good one with some strength, and you slice it relatively thinly and do a boil out with it in the sugar syrup, you should be able to pick up a good bit. I mean the good thing about sh you know sugar syrup is you can continue to heat it for a while. So you know what I typically do with uh heat I tend not to use uh green when I add heat to things most of the time uh in drinks and and in uh ice creams and things like this I'm I want to add a more of a red flavored heat so I tend to use red things.
+
+[11:21] Uh so but you s just keep tasting it and what'll happen is is I is it'll it'll be the right amount of spice and then eventually it'll over it'll over extract and get too spicy. So I just keep tasting tasting tasting and then throw it through a coarse chinois to strain it out as soon as it's at the place where I like it. Um and that that tends to be what I what I do. It's almost impossible to measure uh peppers because they're so variable with regard to their heat levels even from pepper to pepper unless you're dealing with something preposterously hot like a habanero where you know that it's gonna hit you with a wild fat. But even then you can be mistaken.
+
+[11:58] You can get an ahi dulce which looks for all the world like a habanero and smells like it but doesn't taste like it very much and isn't hot hardly at all. Um you know so like peppers can be extremely extremely variable. Uh and so you know I would always get a couple of extra chop chop them, throw them in while while you do the heat. And be aware that what Chris says is right, when you then mix it down with your with your milk and cream base, it's going to reduce the heat even further. So you might want to just have some spicy crap sitting around that you can dose back in the spice with.
+
+[12:29] But you have to be careful because usually then when you're dosing something back, you're dosing if you're dosing a dry spice, let's say those things get radically hotter when you infuse them. So the red pepper flakes you get at a pizza parlor, you can eat them on their own without too much trouble. You infuse them for a long time in a liquid and then they can start blowing your top off correct right Chris? I mean you're you're Yeah no the the basic issue is when they're dry you tend to swallow them before they have time to to rehydrate and start diffusing out the capsacan. If you rehydrate them first so that the capsacan can can easily hit the soft tissue in your mouth you're gonna you're gonna be a very unhappy person.
+
+[13:02] Yeah I mean that's the classic mistake people do when they're making sauces is they'll throw in a bunch of dry chili flakes and they're like oh it's not hot enough and then they'll throw in some more gi dry chili flakes. Well it's still not hot enough. And then they'll throw some more and then and then 15 minutes later they're done you know yeah you gotta you got you gotta wait and you gotta give it time. Yeah. That's not as much of a problem as fresh but oh thank you I had uh I had a drink question also uh maybe you know up your up your challenge.
+
+[13:27] I was wondering if uh we wanted to kind of pair some of these things with alcoholic drink. Um and then I was thinking did you have you ever tried to do like an alcoholic version of an icing float? Oh yeah. Oh yes. Oh and so you made kind of like an alcoholic um like a a fizzy frothy drink and then you know just dump the ice cream in there.
+
+[13:48] Yep. Delicious anything in particular any any good combinations that you'd recommend? I mean there's the obvious ones root beer there's some couple of good root beer uh liqueurs out there or you can make your own root beer flavor and you can do a classic root beer float. That's probably the first one I ever did. Uh you can mean I mean, I would imagine that uh you know, a recarbonated rum and coke would make a good float if you want traditional flavors.
+
+[14:10] Uh I've done um, you know, if you like vinegar cocktails, uh fit like a really nice fresh fig ice cream with uh with like a slightly vinegared carbonated soda cocktail is nice and works as a non-dessert kind of a thing. Um but there's I mean, Chris, have you ever done uh what what flavors do you try with that? Uh I haven't done a I I haven't done a ice cream, an alcoholic ice cream float, but I'm I'm immediately thinking of how to how to do something like a boozy creamsicle. Oh yeah. Well, we have a we have a drink now.
+
+[14:43] I mean like like uh carbonated uh well Jin, I don't know how Jim would go with ice cream. You might have to switch to a different spirit, but uh orange. We have a drink on the in the bar menu now that's uh clarified orange orange juice, uh, where we add a citric uh and malic blend to it to give it the acidic characteristics of lime juice. And we use that we use that in a daiquiri variant where we milkwash the daiquiry to give it a nice heavy, so it tastes like an orange julius. We call it Dr.
+
+[15:08] J. But that orange base, uh, we don't clarify for the daiquiri because we want it to be foamy, but it clarified. You can you I've made uh uh kind of gin, like a gin, so I would make like a celery, a celery ice cream or sorbet, and then do like uh clarified orange with malic and citric uh and like liquor of your choice, carbonated carbonated and uh poured over could be quite nice. You know what I would try? I've been playing we've but we've been playing with this a bit lately is is uh old school phosphate and uh uh using phosphoric acid as is our seasoning with various citrus citrus juices and then carbonating them.
+
+[15:46] And I I've kind of got a hankering to to sort of make an alcoholic mandarin mandarin soda that's that's getting a tested extra acidity, not only from the citric, but but of uh phosphorus. Have you ever worked with phosphoric acid, Dave? Uh yeah, but the problem is that Nastasha hates it, and so like whenever I want them go towards uh well, in that case, we're we're done. No, I mean but the well, I mean the issue is is that yeah, well, Chris, you know this. Like you you you if someone asks you to work on something, you work on something, but then if the people around you are constantly saying how they hate things, it's like makes it kind of a pain in the butt to work with.
+
+[16:19] The same way that like we don't do a lot with cherries because I'm allergic to it, you know. So it's that's a that's a horrible thing to be allergic to. I know, I know it is. I uh they're certainly my favorite, and have you not had therapy for that? I I I think I'm you know what it is, it's uh it what happened was is that you know, I have uh I'm being punished.
+
+[16:43] I'm being punished for all of those years of making fun of people with allergies, and so they're like, oh, world's greatest fruit. Well, now you're allergic to it. Enjoy. I think that's what happened pretty much. So this is karma.
+
+[16:55] Yeah, yeah, yeah, bad, bad, uh, bad karma. When you are carbonating things, be aware when you're carbonating um is that you can probably go h a little bit higher alcohol and a little bit higher sugar than you would for a drink drink, but um the more alcohol you have, the harder it's gonna be to carbonate probab uh properly. When we're making carbonated drinks uh at the bar for consumption, uh you know, straight drinking consumption, we use uh ratios of between one point uh seven five uh uh two up to two ounces, that's sixty mils of uh of high proof spirit in a total uh cocktail base of five ounces just for for your you know general edification. Anything stiffer than that, and it's gonna be more difficult to um it's gonna be more difficult to carbonate properly and also when something stiffer than that is balanced out with acids and sugars it's gonna tend to taste syrupy and the first couple of bites might be good but they I mean the drinks might be good but as it goes down it's gonna be more cloying. So just so you know now if you're working on a float you could probably go a little a little harder than that but also realize that an alcoholic based soda will foam even more than a regular soda when poured on an ice cream base.
+
+[18:09] Really? Yeah well because alcohol tends to foam anyway like when you're carbonating cocktails it foams so much you know so my it like I there's already a foaming issue with it. And then obviously floats are a foaming issue. So it's just you know it can become a big foam. It's delicious though, but it can be a big kind of a a foamy mess.
+
+[18:29] Alright Chris while you're on the air here let's I have some coffee questions in. Uh so first of all uh we had a question last week someone was asking about uh frothing frothing milk without getting an expensive frother and I'm actually you know in uh modernist cuisine you guys have a recipe where you stabilize uh foam with uh with whey protein isolate and uh sucroester sucrose esters. Uh will that actually make latte art foam with an air latte? Is it dense enough? Does the sucrose make it uh fine enough?
+
+[19:01] Uh the the whey protein helps you probably more than the sucrocesters. So you you could probably leave the sucrostors out of that and and and still make it work. It's possible to make a uh a a latte foam that you can pour latte art with using an aeros latte. There's a fair amount of technique. What I've found is you generally sort of uh you need to be warming it as you go, and you want to be working though the the aero latte wand really sort of more at the bottom.
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+[19:27] You're gonna try to drag a little bit of air in, but then mostly what you're trying to do is just have the aero latte sort of buried deeper and constantly sort of breaking up the the bubble so that you're getting a smaller and smaller microfoam. So I tend to be moving the aero latte around the bottom of the pot of the pot, slowly bringing it towards the surface. But I've sort of brought the aero latte to the surface at about the same time that the milk is the right temperature. The real thing that most people make a mistake with, in my experience, if you want to get a a really wet foam that's velvety and silky and you can't really see any individual bubbles, and it's gonna you know, sort of have that viscous pour to it, is don't overheat the milk. The milk really shouldn't be much hotter than about 45, 50 Celsius at the most.
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+[20:14] If you really want to have uh have some milk that's really easy to pour uh pour latte air with. If you start getting the milk up to like 60 Celsius, 140 Fahrenheit, it's gonna be really dry, and when you go to pour it, all the foam's gonna slide back to the pitcher and hot milk's just gonna come out beneath it. Um and so I found that that's really almost more important than anything else you add to the milk. So you can't get it. You can't get it to the temperatures that you would get if you were actually pulling it from a steam wand.
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+[20:39] When I pull it from a steam wand, I very rarely go much hotter than that myself, but I don't tend to drink huge milky beverages. So, like if I drink a traditional cappuccino or a uh or a five-ounce latte, um, I generally won't heat my mood much hotter than about 45 Celsius, and that gives me just this really nice milk texture. Almost every coffee shop I go into, I I I tend to have the opinion that they they oversteam the milk so that it's piping hot when you're carrying around this sort of bladder busting size coffee. Um, but for me that's not a very pleasant drinking experience. Well, like my wife, for instance, she likes the taste of the foamed on uh kind of lower temp, but she prefers the coffee to be hotter.
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+[21:19] There's no really no way around. I mean, like like can you do like a quick nuke and like not ruin you're just automatically ruined as soon as it's heated up. Well, the the thing to do there is you're your your your your espresso is gonna come out plenty hot. Yeah, nearly boiling, right? No, it's the milk, yeah.
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+[21:33] Yeah, it's the mouth. Have a hot cup. Um and and then don't if if you if you're gonna drown it in in a huge amount of milk, yeah, you you're you're hosed. Um you can probably get the with the steam wand, you could get to fifty fifty-five comfortably and still get a wet foam. Um but my experience is you go much hotter than that, the foam starts to get really unstable, it starts to get dry and it just isn't as pleasant to drink.
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+[21:56] I mean, I always pull uh I always pull like a hefty amount of uh hot water out of the hot water tap on my espresso machine before into my cup to preheat it. But is that not standard practice? Well, so uh I I suppose standard practice is is have the cups on the top of the espresso machine so that they're they're nice and hot. They they they you know, they design the machine so that the boiler heats uh heating the the top surface. But um if you want it really hot, yeah, just you know, d dose some of the boiling water out of the boiler into it.
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+[22:25] But more than anything else, I just like it when it's served in a in a in a warm cup. There's something really nice about how that feels when you're when you're drinking it. Well, that's also you know, cups in general, which is why, you know, paper cups are the devil. Yeah, but uh paper cups have the advantage that they go in your car real nice and uh and uh you know that that I I know that that's you know, more of a West Coast thing to drive around through your your drive through Starbucks and and get your your your your th what is it I think it's 30 some odd out Starbucks uh uh latte now. Wow.
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+[23:00] So you know that's with one double in it? That only has one double of coffee in it? Oh, I I I have no idea. It's like the big gulp of the latte world, and I think it's like two shots. Yeah, so it's I'm sure somebody can call in and correct us because I've never had it.
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+[23:18] Yeah, so that you never that doesn't happen in New York because here what you would have to do is walk past five Starbucks to get to your car, then drive to the Starbucks, double park, go into the Starbucks, get the thing, come back out, put it in your car, and then you could drink it for the next hour and a half while you look for your parking space again. Yeah. You're just reminding me of why I'm glad I don't live in New York. Yeah, but on the other hand, we walk everywhere. Okay, anyway.
+
+[23:43] So back back back on the coffee. Uh oh, by the way, so Scott from Guelph wrote in uh commenting on that question from last week, and uh Scott says, uh, I wanted to write in first thing on making decent milk foam without a steam wand on a high end espresso machine. I found a fairly good and cheap technique. You can buy a small French press style coffee maker, some specifically designed for milk. You add the cold milk to the bottom of the press so it comes up over the mesh uh mesh screen, and you rapidly pump the screen up and down in the milk and make it fairly dense and stable foam.
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+[24:10] You can then heat the milk inside the glass container in the nuke. Uh the foam doesn't overheat and pop since the air mixture doesn't absorb microwaves as well as the still liquid milk at the bottom. With my setup, it takes about 45 seconds to get to the proper temperature for a cappuccino, and the foam seems to work best if you use very cold skimmed milk, although you can get a richer but less impressive foam with higher fat milks. I do not like skimmed milk foams. What do you think about that technique, uh, Chris?
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+[24:31] I I think the uh the the biggest challenge I I would be concerned about is is as you sort of nuke it, essentially that you're gonna have the dry foam rise to the top and it's gonna drain out. So I I suspect with a lot of care and attention you can sort of swirl it and keep the foam wet and together, but to me uh I'm I'm I I I've seen the technique. I've never been able to get it to work where I can get a nice, evenly wet, dense foam from top to bottom of the pitcher that I can just free pour to get a nice rosette. But you know what it totally works. You don't even if you just want an okay milk foam and you don't want to spend a lot of money, you can use any French press to do that.
+
+[25:11] Uh skim milk does work best, but it tastes unpleasant in my in my opinion. I I'd use two percent. It's uh skim milk's a bad product. Let me just say this right now. Skim milk should not exist.
+
+[25:24] Why? It's horrible. It's just a nightmare. I mean, like, look, if you want to like dehydrate it and get the milk powder for use in something else, maybe. But why would you ever want mean it's horrible?
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+[25:33] You know, my 90 uh how old is he now? Ninety-four almost year old grandpa is is only drinks full fat milk. Like this, like you're not saving that much. It's just wretched. It's just a wretched, thin, gray, awful thing.
+
+[25:47] I gotta say, I'm sure it has some culinary applications, but as an actual product to consume, it's wretched. Do you disagree with me? I don't drink skim milk. Yeah, no, it's horrible. Uh so uh now uh Scott writes in also uh a separate issue we had, Chris, last week was uh someone wanted to uh serve a non-alcoholic uh drinks to their wife uh uh who is pregnant, and uh and so you know, ideas of drinks that you could sip for a while, uh, you know, and sort of instead of having an alcoholic drink.
+
+[26:16] Scott writes in, uh, there are dealcoholized wines that aren't appalling, but uh what I wanted to share was making your own drink out of the spice sumac sumac. Uh, this is an old idea and is usually referred to as sumac lemonade. You basically steep the sumac in hot or cold water, add sugar to taste. Sumac is high in malic acid, uh, and so has a wine-like bite to it. The flavor is somewhat woodsy and floral and makes a very refreshing summertime drink.
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+[26:37] Sumac grows wild around here. He's from Guelph, Canada. I wonder whether he's involved with the university. They have a great dairy department there. Um the flavor is somewhat woodsy and floral and makes a very refreshing summertime drink.
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+[26:46] Sumac grows wild around here, and many people harvest it themselves. Sumac trees grow on the sides of the road and they spread out as clones of the parent. The spice comes from the red cone-shaped spears that adorn the tree, and you are supposed to harvest them when the weather is dry or the malic acid gets washed off during the rain. I did not know that. I did not I did not know that.
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+[27:02] I've been tempted to ferment some sumac lemonade, but of course that won't help you if you are up the spout, which I learned last week means pregnant as well as broken or pawned. Uh keep up the awesome show. Scott, uh ac actually I love sumac. We uh in fact, one of the flavors of uh I shouldn't say this. Um we we have s we do a lot of sumac work, but just not for the public yet.
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+[27:21] I happen to love sumac a lot. But uh you work with a lot, Chris? Uh I haven't used sumac in a while. I I I enjoy it, but I uh you know, I think the last time I was using it was when I was working in sort of this classic French restaurant. We were using it with lamb, and and I think I made that dish a a few hundred times too many uh to want to keep working with sumac.
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+[27:42] Yeah, so you I mean, uh it's got a really distinctive flavor that that that's uh that's interesting. I guess uh I I've just never really had a reason to play with it. Yeah, it's not only malic, I think there's probably some oxalic in there as well. It's got that kind of like sorely kind of hit to it, too. Um but uh but I don't know that.
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+[28:00] That's just coming off the top of my head. But you know, it makes fan as you know, as Scott points out, it makes fantastic, uh it makes fantastic still, but it makes really fantastic sparkling drinks. Really good. So so something I've I've I've made in the past that I think is a great non-alcoholic attorney is is I'm I'm a huge fan of elder flower uh blossoms and uh maybe that's from my time in England because it's a pretty popular drink over there. But uh if you can get uh sort of elder flower cordial uh the the syrup or you can make your own a blend of that of lemon juice and then I'll make a a simple syrup infused with uh Douglas spur and a blend of of the lemon juice the elder flower cordial um and the Douglas fur syrup and then dilute it down with water and ice I think that's that's a fantastic combination that uh uh has a lot of sort of y you almost could think of it as sort of the the the wrestling of the faux wine world because it's got that that really aromatic bouquet a nice bit of acidity and and and a slight the the the slight resinous pine flavor is a little bit unexpected but quite pleasant.
+
+[29:01] Yeah I've never done pine and elder flower that sounds good though. I wonder is it really lemon juice I think to to bring the two together. But is there is there anything in someone do some research and make sure there's nothing in pine tea that pregnant people can't have uh but that sounds delicious. I'd like to I'd like to try that another good thing for sumac, we used to uh we used to grind uh sumac finer uh along with uh the salt and use it uh as a French fry spice it's really good on French fries. Uh you know it's it brings some of that acidity to it and uh it's almost like you know if you're not gonna if you're not gonna douse your French fries and ketchup sumac's nice I mean if you're gonna douse them in ketchup it's just really no point.
+
+[29:42] But um Hey Dave it's Jack. Hey Jack Hey so I see here women who are pregnant or could become pregnant are advised not to drink pine needle tea in general for fear it could cause abortion. Wow. And Jack, welcome. I didn't know you were in the studio.
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+[29:56] Here, yeah, hey, what's up? Hey Jack. Uh well, you know, t there y dare there you have it. But uh so good if you don't want to have alcohol, maybe not good if you're pregnant. Don't know.
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+[30:07] Or leave the p or leave the pine out. Yeah, leave the pine out. Leave the pine out. Because I know I've I've never done lemon and uh elder flower, but you zoo and elder flower I know is delicious. Uh with pear, pear juice would use you and elder flower, very good.
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+[30:18] Uh carbonate that sucker too. But here's something that you're gonna know uh more about again, Chris. Uh you got a collar, by the way, Dave. Okay, caller. We'll take the collar and then we'll go back to coffee.
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+[30:26] Caller, you're on the air. Hey guys, it's Chris Kohler from North Carolina. How you doing? Good. First I wanted to thank Chris for uh Chef Steps.
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+[30:34] He's always answering my questions on the forum, and it's a great resource that uh everybody that listens to this, you know, radio and that likes your blog would absolutely love. Thanks, Chris. Nice nice to actually hear your voice. Yeah. Uh it's it's great, you know, get into ask you guys a question.
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+[30:51] I just got a bunch of ramps and I want to know what to do with them. I've always kind of avoided them because, you know, I feel like they might be overhyped or that they're like, you know, a little too, you know, whatever, but uh what do I do with these things? Well, so Stas hates Nastasha hates ramps just because other people like them. This is just a caveat, right, Sus? That's right.
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+[31:10] Yeah, that's why I've always avoided them. All right, Chris, give me some ramp, give me some ramp, uh uh drop some. Well, there's there there's obviously the the pickled ramps, charred ramps. I I would uh you know, one of the things I would do is I I'd like to make a nice sauce from them. So I would ch I would char them slightly, uh pure them and turn them into a fluid gel.
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+[31:29] So do you have any agar or gel and gum? Yep, got agar. Um would you charm just on the grill or should I just use a blowtorch? Uh you could do it with a you could do it with a blowtorch. If you check out the charred rapini video on Chefsteps.com, you'll uh you'll sort of see a nice technique that that we use.
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+[31:44] And so I just give them uh uh a light charring, then then puree them. Uh I would let them down with a little bit of water rather than uh a stock, just because I think the flavor is fantastic. Uh adjust the seasoning. And then if you wanted sort of a a a thicker puree that that uh that you could drag or that would stand up and have some body to it. With agar, I'd probably set it with about one percent and then puree it um and and and sieve it.
+
+[32:15] Uh if you had gel-an gum, you might be able to go down to about 0.75% for a for a fairly thick puree. But what's nice about the fluid gel is it's not going to be gloopy or cloying in the mouth. It's gonna be very clean and really let the charge to ramp flavor come through. One thing though is definitely um don't add the salt or any acid to the puree until right before serving, or you're gonna end up just coloring this sort of vibrant green green appearance. Cool.
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+[32:39] Yeah, and uh one other thing in general when you're using ingredients like that is since since you're gonna ha since you're gonna charge extra for them and people want to know what they taste like and they're expensive and they only come around once in a while, usually you should use them in things that highlight them. I mean, that's you know, just common practice when you say clean. Yeah. You know, it's it's you know, the yes, that's true, and I agree with that. The other thing though is people can get a little bit overly precious.
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+[33:06] And so if you sort of that follow to its logical conclusion, you get this sort of farce of uh of of a of a cooked ramp on a plate with nothing else. Right. Um because it it's so special that we have to highlight it. It's like uh you can do a little bit more to it and and still really uh show off the ramp. What you might end up doing is composing a couple different textures.
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+[33:25] So the pickled ramp, the ramp puree, um, you know, some some some some very thinly sliced ramp, um, all of those could be could be really nice. What do you what do you call that dish, Mike? You call that ramp it up? I'll leave the puns to you. Yeah.
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+[33:40] Uh yeah, well uh again, we uh we at Booker Intact are the world expert punished. Uh yeah. All right. Well, I don't know what what do you like? What do you like for ramps?
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+[33:50] What do you like uh uh pairing ramps with? Well, I don't I don't I've never uh I've I never used them uh at the French culinary uh because I just never did. I would only ever cook them at home. And so then I usually just I just do them as uh as a side. I do like a c uh like a quick saute and then a little bit of sugar down like I would with uh asparagus, salt and like a little bit of correction with acidity at the very end as it comes out and just serve them kind of glazed and wilted like that.
+
+[34:18] But because I'm doing it at home, you know. Well, two two things just came to my mind, Chris, actually, is uh somebody on our forum mentioned that if you have a lot of ramps, if you want like a ten pound case, uh ramp kimchi, and that sounds fantastic. So that would be very cool to do. That sounds really good. The other idea that comes to mind is i it's gonna definitely shift the flavor a bit, but if you do end up making that ramp curee, enrich it with a little schmaltz, a little uh uh a little roast chicken fat.
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+[34:45] Um and and that's just gonna make it incredibly uh delicious. You just wanted to say schmaltz, Chris. I did. I I actually I have uh I have a a a notepad here with words that I want to get into our conversation. It's sort of the subliminal programming going on.
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+[35:00] Well schmaltz is a good one. You know, people don't have the schmaltz on the table anymore. That's like so old school. I think Sammy's Romanian is the last restaurant in New York where you can go have like uh the big thing of schmaltz on the table. Well, and it's it's really easy to do.
+
+[35:13] If you pressure, if you if you take like your roast chicken carcass and then pressure cook the heck out of it, you're gonna have all this fat on the top, and most people throw that out, which that's kind of a crime. I mean, you should you should skim that off and save it because roast chicken fat's awesome. Oh yes. Oh, yes, it is. It's delicious product.
+
+[35:33] Uh all right, so I hope that answers the ramp question. Yeah, thank you guys. Thanks, Chris. That's a great word. All right, thank you.
+
+[35:39] All right, so uh there's a schmaltz brewing company. Uh, that can't that can't be good. I don't want schmaltz in my beer, Jack. I do not want schmaltz. I mean, like I like I I will go places other people will not, but schmaltz in my beer is not one.
+
+[35:52] Although I will taste it. If if someone ever hears this who can get a hand uh their hand on a can of schmaltz beer, send it our way, and we'll definitely I'll eat I'll get bread and schmaltz and drink the schmaltz beer with it. Uh okay. All right, here we go, Chris. Coffee, right?
+
+[36:06] So remember for those of you that don't know, uh, I think uh because I think people don't really know, and this is actually an interesting question, although we shouldn't spend too much time on it because we have a bunch of actual questions to get through. But maybe we can take a quick break too, unless you want to squeeze this out. Yeah, let's squeeze this out for a second. So, like the uh in in the modernist cuisine, there are certain sections that different ones of you in the you know, in the big one had more of a hand in because it's kind of more of your thing. You had a giant hand uh in the the coffee section, correct?
+
+[36:33] This is why I'm pestering you with the coffee questions. Yeah, no, I I I I I'm I'm a big fan of coffee. I would like to say that I stood on the shoulder of some giant people like Jim Hoffman, uh World Greece Champ, and run Square Mile Coffee in London and Tim Wendelbow uh had some uh some really wonderful people uh help out extensively with that chapter. But uh we w it's at least something I'm passionate about, so we tried to make it a great chapter. Right.
+
+[36:58] So now there's two questions we have uh from last week that I didn't answer, one on mocha pots and one on aero presses. But before I get into it, let me just say that my my uh you know expertise, if you can call it that in coffee is almost exclusively related to uh espresso shots, because that's what I drink, and that's all I drink. Uh I drink a lot of it, but that's what I make, and that's what I what I think about uh a lot. Uh but before we even get into this, I think everyone uh should probably go check out if you don't mean modernist cuisine, I I read it the section on coffee actually today, uh, but also go to um look at VST Mojo to go and what they have done with uh like linking refractometers and initial uh coffee weights to kind of targeting where your brew is, and probably read uh Scott Rayo's book uh on uh everything but espresso if you're interested in kind of the mechanics of non-espresso brewing. Is it would you agree with that fact or no?
+
+[37:57] Uh I would actually recommend both of Scott Rayo's books. I think they're two of the best books written on the subject and uh certainly influenced uh our thinking on coffee. So but his everything but espresso book uh I think is the standard by which other books will be judged. I wish ours was that good. Right.
+
+[38:13] But I mean I so I mean the the key is and we're gonna talk here about aeropress and mocha pots, but the the key is to is to understand uh that each one of these things has uh a lot of variables involved in it, and each type of coffee maker that people still use on a regular basis can make a delicious cup of coffee. However, they're not interchangeable and they won't make the same cup of coffee. And so the the the question is figuring out how to control the variables accurately to get it consistent and the best of that style of coffee that you can get. Would you agree with that, Chris or no? Yeah, I I think that's what's interesting about it is you know, you have this raw material, but depending on how you extract the the literally hundreds, if not thousands, of compounds in it, you get a very different drinking experience.
+
+[38:58] And and to those who care about coffee, it can be incredibly interesting that something as simple as the difference between a pour over and a French press give you such a very different uh outcome. All right. Now, on the on the French press variant up to new newer style aeropress, the first question. Uh hopefully uh an easier question. This is also from uh person who doubled up on a question.
+
+[39:19] I recently acquired an aeropress and a burr grinder. Uh this is why the acquisition of additional materials would lead to a domestic dispute. So what we're told is he cannot purchase a more expensive uh machine other than the aeropress and the burr grinder that he has. Uh and I've been experimenting with different amounts of coffee, different grinds, and different water temperatures. Small changes seem to make a big difference to the taste.
+
+[39:38] I would greatly appreciate your comments on how the various factors affect the result. The AeroPress website suggests that making a very concentrated initial brew and watering it down will get a better result than adding more water. Why is this? Also, why does grind size seem to make such a difference? One post I found online recommends inverting the press and very carefully making sure that the foam on top of the coffee made its way into the final cup.
+
+[39:58] Although you don't like that stuff, right, Chris? That stuff that floats up. You're not a fan, right? I'm not a huge fan of breaking, I like to skim the raft off uh in the case of French press before uh before plunging it to prevent it from sort of overbrewing and over extracting while it sits on the table. Right, right.
+
+[40:16] Well, in fact, uh the person who wrote the question, Alex, also agrees with that because they found the results of the turning it upside down a bit oily and harsh. But perhaps my palate is immature, says Alex, or perhaps I need better beans. Any advice? I enjoy tinkering with different options, but would love to understand the basics of what's going on with different grind sizes, temperatures, and concentrations. Keep up the good work, Alex from Toronto.
+
+[40:34] Well, uh I mean very, very simply put, in uh in an aeropress, when you do the aeropress, I do I do a full stir down, let it sit and then and then do the press extraction. Is that what you do or no? I mean I thought that would be that would be what I do because you're putting it through a through a extremely fine membrane filter. So the idea of it sort of over extracting once you once you essentially uh uh um strain it as it were uh i i it's irrelevant so yeah a stir down there for even wetting of the grounds and a a more uh uh in and a sort of a more uniform extraction is gonna help this is one of these things where you can very easily start chasing your tail um and uh and I'll be further to say that I've I've used aero presses I I I like them I think they're interesting there's a lot of great techniques online um but I'm not an expert on air press because I don't make it all that often um you know a couple things that I can point out is the water temperature has a huge impact. Generally speaking the cooler your water the more acidic you're gonna get the hotter your water the more you'll tend towards the bitter side um something around ninety eight Celsius I think in the aero press folks actually recommend a slightly lower temperature um but something in the upper nineties is going to be about right you'll have to find where that sweet spot is for you with everything else held constant but in general as you lower the water temperature you're going to tend to find it more acidic and maybe a little bit under extracted and as it's uh as it's hotter water it's going to get a little more bitter and over extracted.
+
+[42:01] Right. And the finer the grind, the faster you will extract, and the coarser the grind, the slower finer. Same thing. Finer grinds tend to, you know, favor over extraction, coarser grinds five favor under extraction. That interacts with water temperature as does contact time.
+
+[42:17] So the problem is you kind of have to choose which of those you're going to keep fixed while you adjust the others, otherwise you start to get really befuddled and lose track of where where you are and what you're trying to tweak. And the in the in the aero press, the quantity of water you add to the quantity of coffee should not change the extraction appreciably because you're not getting close to any sort of equilibrium. That should just change how strong the coffee is relative to pure water. Would you agree with that or no? Yeah, it's going to change your brew strength.
+
+[42:47] And this is what the guys at Extract Mojo have done some phenomenal work is most people tend to tend to, you know, it's surprising how tight the range is that people actually consider sort of a well balanced cup. And you know, you can use a refractometer to actually quantify this and say that you actually want to get sort of you know an 18 or so percent uh extraction from from the grounds. Um that would be for espresso. I actually suspect it will be similar for uh for for aero press, but I've never really looked. Yeah, I mean the rail numbers are between around 18 and 22 for non-espresso, between eighteen and twenty-two, uh, you know.
+
+[43:26] And that varies a little bit culturally. Norwegians like it, you know, what I've heard is Norwegians and Scandinavians favor slightly higher. They also like to not slightly Americans, I think, are tend to be 18, 19 percent, although our friend Jeffrey Steingarden told me I'm a fool for liking 18%. Well, what does he like? Uh higher.
+
+[43:44] Yeah, it sounds like Jeffrey. That sounds like Jeffrey. But of course the Ely's like it lower, right? That's why the Ely's use a sh uh like the actual Ely family. And you should also go look at espresso, the chemistry, uh, the chemistry of qualities.
+
+[43:56] A great book on espresso only. I mean, it's came out a long time ago, so I don't know kind of how up to date it is, but they they favor kind of very low numbers. Um they use you know very like longer shots with lower uh lower initial doses, but yeah, they they they talk in, I mean, if you talk in terms of sort of brew ratio with espresso, like and that's what mass of a shot do you get out of from what mass of ground in a particular time frame? And you know, that you you'll find that the Italians in general sort of like um you know something that's it's it's uh uh usually they'll use smaller dosing to begin with, and they'll pull a slightly faster shot, and the brew ratio won't be quite the same as what what they'll do like you know, closer to two to one brew ratio, so maybe a seven gram dose, get a 14 gram shot out. Whereas you have a tendency in in in this country, because we drown our beverages in so much milk to use much higher dosing, maybe 18 or 20 grams, and then like a one and oh, you know, this will vary depending on style, but you know, somewhere closer to like a one and a half, maybe even towards the ristretto of a one to one brew ratio, and it's gonna make a much much stronger coffee.
+
+[45:09] Um maybe even a little bit bitter, you're gonna lose some of the acidity, some of the floral note. But then if you drown it in a gallon of milk, it has a chance of sort of standing out. Yeah, but even as the so I mean, you know, Ely, Andrea Ely told me once, yeah, when I I asked him, so and we're talking now like 10 years ago, so you know, kind of in the early period of the huge expansion in the in the coffee scene out where you are in Seattle. I guess you weren't there at that time, but you are from that area, but whatever. So uh, and you know, he I said, what do you think about what these guys are doing on the west coast of New York of uh the of the U.S.
+
+[45:41] where they're using much higher dose rates than you are in pulling shorter shots, and as you say, he's uh you know he's like the florals are going to be reduced. I happen to think that a circa two thousand and three, you know, like kind of pan West Coast, so take vivace as like kind of the one that we all kind of heard about over here, right? That kind of a shot, I loved that that kind of a shot, like two thousand and two, two thousand like that kind of a shot, I thought was amazing. The last time I was out there a couple of years ago, like these kind of like skim coat shots where they're like hyperdosing it and pulling out like way less than an ounce. I don't know about that style.
+
+[46:19] What do you think? I I'm I'm not actually a fan of that style. I uh I I probably prefer something closer to 18 gram dose pulled in, depends on the coffee, but around 27 or so, uh 20 24 to 27 seconds. And I generally like to get like uh more towards like a 1.6, 1.7 brew ratio. It's not it's not an Italian style, but it's not this really overdosed um uh you know sort of hyper ristretto shot that uh that that become fairly fashionable.
+
+[46:51] Is there any snap back on the West Coast back towards like slightly more normal shot volumes or no? Yeah, uh I I would say actually there's an interesting trend going on at places um like Millstead Coffee. There's a a grape for uh an up and coming uh uh young Grecian named Andrew Milstead, who runs this place in Fremont, and he's basically going back towards smaller, uh smaller, you know, if you order a uh uh a a cappuccino, you're gonna get a five-ounce cup there. And so when you start reducing the amount of milk you're serving, it allows you to sort of start bringing these shot uh doses down and the brewing ratios to you know, maybe more normal levels or levels that really sort of maximize bringing out the florals and and and and the various aroma uh aroma notes you get in the coffee and away from this shot that's really just designed to stand out in 24 ounces of hot milk. Yeah, Dave, I gotta squeeze a break in here.
+
+[47:44] Uh we have to have a break. We have to, yes. All right, all right, right. Commercial break. We're right back with Chris Young.
+
+[48:04] This is Chris Young, co-author of Modernist Cuisine. Together with photographer Ryan Matthew Smith and Chef Grant Krille, we've created something exciting and new at Chefsteps.com. Each day in our kitchen at Seattle's Pike Place Market, we're working on new recipes, as well as updating classic ones that we love. And we're always looking for new techniques that make the impossible possible. At ChefSteps.com, we publish it all online with detailed step-by-step demonstrations, as well as explanations of the science that answers the why behind the how in the kitchen.
+
+[48:40] And through our forum, you can engage with our team as well as a friendly community of curious cooks from around the world. If you're interested in becoming a better cook, if you want more from the creative team behind modernist cuisine, and if like us, you're a fan of Dave Arnold and cooking issues, then we think there's a lot you'll like. And the best part, Chef Steps.com is entirely free to learn. How's that for an ad? There you go.
+
+[49:06] All right, Chris, you're still with us, right? Yeah, I'm here. Okay, cool. So uh another question, also from an Alex, different one. Uh Alex uh Gorodetsky writes in about mocha pots, which actually, you know what?
+
+[49:17] I'm gonna go ahead and say this. I don't drink mocha pot coffee, but the real problem with mocha pots is that people have uh linked the word espresso to the mocha pot, and they're just entirely different types of coffee, right? I mean, they're just not the same thing, right? And I've never taken the time to get a good mocha cup, but apparently people who like it like it. Yeah, so I I I'm I'm gonna say I've been given like three mocha pots in my lifetime is a gift.
+
+[49:43] Um, and it appears to be sort of this cult that people who have mocha pots, it's like Tupperware or something. It's like you want they they give you a mocha pot, and it's like join us. And I've never had a good cup of coffee out of a mocha pot. It might be possible, but I've never had it, and so they've never really captivated my interest. And and then there's just people who are who love mocha pots.
+
+[50:05] They sort of make me feel like I'm joining a cult, so I've sort of shunned them. Right. Well, hell well, I think the thing is is that you know, there's a lot to control. Wait, well, let's I'll go with the question here. Okay.
+
+[50:15] So we've been using the stovetop Italian mocha coffee maker for many years, and we love it for a variety of reasons. So maybe Alex is also a member of the cult. I don't know. Had some questions to see if we can make the mocha coffee better. First, grind.
+
+[50:27] We have been grinding between espresso espresso and Turkish. That is too fine. That is too fine for a mocha pot. All the indications that uh I have are that you want to go slightly coarser uh than uh slightly coarser than espresso. Um water, we use tap water.
+
+[50:43] Whether or not tap water is good, depends on which tap you have. Uh, you know, like kind of, you know, New York City water is a little bit too uh soft, I think most people would say, but uh I don't know. How's Seattle water must be good? That must be one of the reasons why the coffee stuff took off over there, right? Everybody's got reverse osmosis filters on their line in Seattle.
+
+[51:02] Oh, really? And then do they re-that's perfectly good here, but um, you know, uh it it seems that what I've the numbers I've heard going around is something like a hundred and fifty uh PTMs of uh of of some of your your hard minerals. Basically, if you were to go get like Bulvick water or or Dasani or some some sort of name brand pretty middle of the road water, that's about perfect for coffee, and people will go into fairly great effort of making sure their tap water is about that. Right. And then uh Alex asked, would it be better with hot tap uh tap water?
+
+[51:35] Any other tips would be useful as well. Now now neither Chris nor I are uh mocha heads, as we said. However, Stumptown Coffee has a good little thing if you go on their website on using the mocha pot best. They say you want to preheat the water before you put it into the mocha pot. This makes sense because it means it's less time on the stove and less time to dry heat your coffee grounds, which is not a good thing.
+
+[51:56] Uh they also say that the one of the most important things when you're doing mocha pot work is to keep the lid of it open so that you can look down on it so that as soon as it starts blonding out on the extraction, you can pull it off before you over-extract out of it. And then the other thing that they say is to wrap a wet towel to stop the extraction at that point almost instantly. I would say easier would be just to have like a pan of cold water next to it that you could just put the whole bottom of the uh just quench it. And that's something I hadn't thought of, and that's probably a good good technique. Um so I think if you add those, that's probably gonna boost your uh stuff.
+
+[52:30] Go to the top. I would use a coarser grind. Uh and I think like those I mean I'm I'm almost, you know, intrigued now to go out and uh go out and try it. Uh you know, one of the things that's false about a pe everyone who's against it says, Well, you're boiling the water, therefore the water is too hot, therefore it can't possibly make good coffee. But the fact of the matter is is that from the one or two people I've seen who've done kind of initial measurements of the temperature, it's actually by the time it's getting through your coffee grounds no longer boiling and not that far above what it would be in a good espresso machine.
+
+[53:00] So, you know, this is all stuff that can be tweaked out. Yeah, m my guess is, you know, I I I'm sort of taking this weird attitude towards mocha pots. I'm sure it's possible to make a a pretty good cup, and I'm sort of spoiled that I have a nice espresso machine at my disposal. I have all these other things, so I've never really looked at it. But I think you're right.
+
+[53:20] It you're I I can't see why you'd want it finer. I because I think you're having a longer extraction period. You'd actually rather have a slightly coarser grind, which is going to give you a slightly bigger margin for air of under versus over extracting. And that and with something like a mocha pot where you have to quench it to try to stop the extraction, having anything that uh that gives you a little more wiggle room is gonna be worthwhile. I I agree.
+
+[53:43] Hey Dave, quick tweet. Yep, what are you? Just uh FYI Schmaltz beer doesn't actually have Schmaltz in it. They're just using it, you know. Using the term.
+
+[53:51] Jewish beers like Hebrew and things of that nature. I'll all I'm saying is send send it our way. That's all I'm saying. You just want beer, yeah. I just want beer.
+
+[53:58] You know, I'll drink it with uh I'll drink it with uh Jimmy uh Carbone. We'll we'll have some beer together. Okay. So uh Brian in San Francisco, this is a good one, uh Chris. Uh I've wasted many cups of olive uh oil, grapeseed oil, and sunflower oil trying to make mayonnaise from scratch.
+
+[54:11] I followed the recipe from Sirius Eats Food Lab with the immersion blender, uh, and it comes out liquidy. I've also followed McGee's advice from Keys to Good Cooking about using another yolk to save it, but I couldn't. I've also tried the old-fashioned way with a whisk. Please give me a foolproof recipe for mail, also. What about adding flavors?
+
+[54:27] Garlic, mustard, and making holidays, uh bourgeons and other A's style sauces? Finally, how long will it keep? In the fridge? The Japanese don't refrigerate theirs. What's up with fat?
+
+[54:35] Thanks, Brian in San Francisco. Okay. First of all, uh, it's unsafe when it's made unless you pasteurize the eggs. However, the longer it sits, assuming you've used the correct acid ratios in the manufacture of it, the safer it gets. Uh so that's why in New Orleans people don't die from eating the mayonnaise.
+
+[54:52] It's been sitting out all day. Uh but initially made mayonnaise is not safe, and you can always, as modernist cuisine will tell you, or as Chris will tell you, or as I will tell you, it's very simple uh to pasteurize the egg yolks before you use them, and they still make a good mayonnaise, correct? Yep, they make great mayonnaise. Okay. Now, this technique on uh on what's it called?
+
+[55:12] On uh on um that Kenji uh Alt did on uh on the blog there on the Food Network, uh not food network, what's it called? Food Lab is really cool. What he does, Chris, and I don't know if you've seen the video. What he's done. Yeah.
+
+[55:23] So what he does is he takes uh an immersion blender cup, puts an an a single egg yolk in it, uh a tablespoon of water, which is a mistake because water doesn't add flavor. I would add a flavorful liquid, but you know, whatever. I think it was just because that's what he did. Whatever, I'm not gonna get into it. Little vinegar would be nice in there, maybe some mustard.
+
+[55:39] Yeah, yeah, well, he has also adds mustard, but like just straight water like came out with like a flavorless, because I just did it today, flavorless mayonnaise. And then he put it into a uh a cu the actual cup that comes with the immersion blender, and that turns out to be the key. So what happens is you put the immersion blender in the bottom, you hit it, and uh because the egg yolk is sitting at the bottom underneath the blades, you actually are slowly adding the oil to it. It makes us an emulsion before the bulk of the oil face starts getting mixed into it. And you can make a very stiff, banged-out, awesome mayonnaise in like in nothing flat.
+
+[56:14] It's actually amazing. It's really kind of amazing. So like that's the way I when I was Garmeret Chef at the Fat Duck, that's like the way I made our mayonnaise twice a day for service. So I was unaware this was even a technique. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[56:29] Well, but here's the thing it's easy to mess up because uh so the results you're getting too liquidy. When Brian first said he was results were too liquidy, my initial assumption was you didn't use enough oil, right? Because we we all know that like you actually oil that thickens it as you as you as you bulk it up. Bingo. But I did as a so then I as an alternate test, I also did it by adding, you know, the I added the ingredients in all different orders.
+
+[56:54] Uh I added, you know, very, very high proof uh, you know, 10% uh Scandinavian vinegar to see whether, or no, Polish vinegar to see whether or not over aceting the yolk could mess it and it couldn't, it was all perfect. But then I made the recipe in a quart container instead of in the actual immersion blender cup, and it did not work because it created too much mixing of the uh yolk and the oil before a stable emulsion was formed. So the key to that technique is to use the actual cup that the immersion blender came with, or if you've lost that, use a mixing tin for like a like a tall uh cocktail mixing tin, because I tested it in that as well. You just you just want a cup where down at the bottom of it, it's not the diameter isn't much bigger than the diameter of the end of the stick uh the stick blender. And you know, you can start with all the oil, or if you're if you haven't practiced this, you can put a little bit of oil in it, almost sort of chop it up to get that initial emulsion, and then get the rest of the oil in and just start blending from the bottom, slowly pulling up.
+
+[57:54] And uh, you know, I've I've always found that's a very easy way to get a a thick thing. So m if he's having trouble, my guess is too big of a container. Yeah, and because I it was in I tried it four times in a core container, it's not possible to do it in something that's too wide at the bottom. Anyway, okay. So uh I am being told uh that uh we are out of time.
+
+[58:14] So I have a question about souffle with acid. You have anything for stabilizing a high acid souffle, other than making sure that uh the base isn't too hot when you put the acid ingredient in before you fold the egg whites, Chris. Um not off the top of my head. You know, the my general reaction when people want to talk about stabilizing the souffle, uh they they generally mean they don't want it to collapse. And the problem is if you make a souffle so stable that it doesn't collapse, it's a cake, not a souffle anymore.
+
+[58:45] Um but you're you're talking about being able to add a uh a high acid into the egg base before baking. Yeah. I mean, um well, I'll I'll talk a little bit more about it next week. Mark Jensen also wrote in with uh a good great use of his uh leftover 64 degree eggs. He makes a hollandaise without having to pre-cook in modernist uh cuisine style.
+
+[59:05] So I'll talk about that. It's a good use. Uh and then we had someone who's having problems with their creme anglaise, Tom Fisher. We'll get to you next uh week. So I'm sorry we didn't get to finish your all the questions, but that's just we have so many good questions and good colors in.
+
+[59:18] And you gotta talk to us about the cereal puffer next week, too. Oh, yeah, we have a new puffing gun, Chris. Next time you're in the city for the summertime, come in. I saw the photo. I I'm I'm extremely envious.
+
+[59:28] So uh uh maybe a trip to New York to come out and play with your toys. Well, you know, you guys, you know, Chef Steps is willing to c like if Chef Steps comes out here, what you guys can make your own proprietary puffed snack mix in our puffer, you know, in the museum's puffer would be awesome. Also, we shipped uh we shipped a beta test unit of the uh Searsol out to you guys. Do you guys get it yet? Uh I will check McCame.
+
+[59:49] I haven't seen it yet, but uh I I'm I'm I'm I'm interested. I was very interested to see the results you had on blowtorching and that uh you know you you might be proving us wrong that we've got to redo some revisions to MC. Alright, well, see see what you think about it. And let me just say this. For those of you that still cook foie gras out there, the Sears all is ridiculous on the foie gras.
+
+[1:00:09] And Chris, thanks for coming and uh speaking with us cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network dot org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network dot org.
+
+[1:00:37] Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] This is Chris Young, co-author of Modernist Cuisine. I'd like to invite you to check out Chefsteps.com. It's a free website we've created as a place to learn new cooking techniques and collaborate with curious cooks from around the world. Sign up now at ChefSteps.com. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.org, a nonprofit member supported radio station.
+
+[0:22] We're millions strong, with folks tuning in from over 200 countries. We are education. We are entertainment. We are the future of food. May is our membership drive.
+
+[0:33] Become a member and support us while receiving the newsletters, advanced invites, special discounts, and a membership card. We need your support. Visit our website and click the donate button to become a member today. Thank you for believing in us and enjoy the show. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:56] This is Dave Moran, your host of Cooking News coming to live from Roberta's Pizzeria on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from roughly 12 to roughly 1245. Joining the studio today with this dash of the hammer lopez. Jack and Joe in the engineering booth. How are you doing, guys? Good, man.
+
+[1:10] I had to switch up the theme music this week. Yeah, I noticed that. But like it's like, you know, you'll people they'll not only is Nastasha like to keep me on her toes, but uh Jack and Joe in the engineering booth like to keep me on my toes. Cause yeah, you're ready for one, you get the other. That's how the life goes.
+
+[1:23] Call in your questions to 7184972128. That's 7184972128. Before I get started, uh, you know, in the audience you probably won't care, but here in the studio you'll enjoy this. So guess why I was late today. I was actually slaved to be on time today, guess.
+
+[1:37] I don't know. Well, it wasn't the train, because you rode a bike. That's right. I don't know. Bike ticket!
+
+[1:43] Woo! Oh man, really? Yeah, yeah. Big ol' bike ticket. What?
+
+[1:48] Well, I was trying to. So, believe this or not, but you probably won't. Like, I normally take a route that the but the bike, the bike program on the computer tells me to go from my house to the studio. And there's one really unsafe intersection. So they didn't attempt to go around, not use that intersection.
+
+[2:03] I went down another place and went down like for like half a block, which is my maximum. In Manhattan or Brooklyn. A one way street. And the cops are like, woo and hit me with a and they're getting smarter because they no longer hand out uh motor vehicle tickets to bikes, which is what they used to do. So any biker could just go to court and say, yo, Yana, I was on a bike.
+
+[2:25] A bike is not a motor vehicle, sorry. And then like, you know what I mean? And that was it. But they have a new kind of summons, but here's where they get you. I can't pay by mail.
+
+[2:32] I have to physically go to court. Well, you can go online and plead not guilty, right? No. Nah. What?
+
+[2:38] No. No. This is new kind of ticket. They're trying to shaft bikers into actually having to go to court, like none of us work or anything. Hey, look, I was breaking the traffic regulations, like, great.
+
+[2:48] Although it's a little bit of an insult to uh have a ticket for the privilege of riding these Brooklyn roads, as uh as Neil Diamond would say, which by the way, much as I don't hate Brooklyn the way Nastache hates, I have I I think Brooklyn's fine. The worst roads that I have seen on the east coast of the United States. You agree with me, Jack? Joe? Yeah, uh yeah, I do.
+
+[3:12] Yeah, I mean, especially in the bike lane where we're forced to drive, it's like imagine if amusement park rides weren't fun. Imagine like the biggest moguls you've ever seen skiing, and those are that is Bushwick people. That's what that's what it's like. I drive a car and I basically have to get new brakes every like you know six, seven months or something. It's yeah, yeah, and all the cars trying to avoid the potholes and try not to bottom and scrape their stuff out.
+
+[3:36] Nothing more fun for them than to run into a biker who's trying to go next to them at you know in their in their normal spot. You know what I'm saying? So I'm pr and I'm proud to have my money, my ticket penalty money go towards supporting the awesome roads of Brooklyn. All right. Let's start off with some, hey, look, my fault though, right?
+
+[3:54] So my usual trick of just, you know, being extremely honest about what I was doing, and nice of the officers didn't work on this one. These guys are there to hand out freaking tickets. They're on an anti-bike. The guy literally said, if you want to break the law, get off the bike and walk across. I wouldn't have given you the ticket.
+
+[4:12] I'm like, What? Wow. What? Okay. Okay.
+
+[4:18] This is not a show about biking. Okay. Here are some uh questions in from before. Uh Tom Fisher wrote in last week. I tried making sous vide creme en glaze using this uh method on your site.
+
+[4:28] That would be cookingissues.com. Uh everything went fine until I tried to bag the mixture. It seems like the blending incorporated far too much air into the mix. And the first time I tried to bag the mix, it quickly doubled in volume and made a huge mess. Before I get going, let me just tell you what the procedure is, right?
+
+[4:41] So people know what the hell I'm talking about. So when we make uh, you know, when you make your normal creme en glaze, you know, you're careful, you stir it, you don't get any air into it, you temper the egg yolks, blah blah blah. When you're making it uh sous vide uh or low temp, what you do is you you throw uh I'll give you my recipe, you throw 10 egg yolks into uh a blender, you throw 170 grams of sugar in there, a little bit of salt, uh whatever flavorings you might want to add. You don't have to add the things like vanilla later because they're gonna be in a bag and they won't volatilize off. Then you're gonna add 500 mils of uh milk and 500 mils of uh heavy cream.
+
+[5:16] And actually, what I do is I add the milk. I don't add the cream in the blender step, I add the milk, turn on the blender on high, blends it, it does aerate it, which is the source of the one of the sources of the problem with uh Tom's uh English mixture here. Uh and but uh it also breaks up the alaza on the egg yolks so that you don't need to uh strain your creme en glaze after. The two big advantages of well, the three big advantages, well, some of the big advantages of doing uh um creme en glaze, uh low temperature or sous vide are one, if you use the blender, you don't need to strain it because one, there's no alaza in it, and two, when you're cooking low temperature, you're never gonna curdle it. So there's no little curdles of egg yolk that you need to strain out, right?
+
+[5:59] So you get rid of that whole straining nonsense. That's one big advantage. Two, uh flavors are preserved uh very well in the bag, and certain flavors like cinnamon, uh it's really easy to get that awesome kind of red hot cinnamon flavor. You like red hot spice though? Yeah, see?
+
+[6:12] Something she likes. See, I know the secret things that she likes, like red hot. Uh so I could have won that pork chop or whatever it is we gave away. Uh so anyway, uh so it gives you that uh red hot thing because the vacuum intensifies the extraction of flavor out of spices like that, uh cinnamon. And uh another advantage is it's extremely hygienic, right?
+
+[6:32] Because you don't need to pour it into something and then cool it very quickly. You can just take the bag, put the bag in ice water, chill it down, and three, because uh you've killed all the vegetative cells in it when the cooking, right? You haven't sterilized it, so it's not safe, uh, you know, uh not refrigerated, but it lasts an extremely long time. So these are some of the benefits. However, uh, so what I do is I blend the milk, the egg yolks, the sugar, the salt, and maybe the flavoring.
+
+[6:55] Then I add the cream and just put the blender on low to stir it to combine because you don't want to froth it up too much because that's stuff you have to get rid of later. Now, to finish the rest of his question, so remember, he has uh Tom was having problems if it was blowing up and making a huge mess, which is true, right? Uh okay, after cleaning, sorry, Tom, that cleaning sucks. Cleaning creme en glaze, make sure out of the bottom of your vacuum machine sucks. Really sucks.
+
+[7:14] Uh after cleaning, I moved the mix to a hotel pan and tried to de-aerate it in the vacuum sealer. But even after many cycles, the mix still had a frothy, bubbly texture. That's true. I eventually bagged it in Ziplocks and circulated the mix and it came out fine. Where did I go wrong?
+
+[7:30] Thanks, Tom Fisher. Okay, here a couple of things. One, creme glaze bubbles like a weasel, and there's just no way around that, right? If you are going to deerate in a pan beforehand, which I don't, by the way, but if you are going to do it, you have to start with extremely thin mixtures in the hot uh when I say thin thickness, not like thin consistency, uh mixtures in the hotel pan, like like a couple of milliliters and do it in four batches. Then you can get a full rise, bubble pop, drop, and boil out of a creme glaze in a vacuum machine.
+
+[7:58] Not a heat boil. I don't want to hear anyone talk to me about heat boils, not a heat boil, it's just a vacuum boil. Uh, and you can do it. However, uh, what I s like what I normally do is I remove all of the plastic thingamajig, like things that look like cutting boards, the spacers, take them all out. Do not use a bagging attachment.
+
+[8:15] This is worthless. Do it in a normal, like uh like 10 or 12 inch wide vacuum bag, uh, I guess 10, I think 10. Uh, only put half a liter of product into it. Or, you know, like basically if you make the liter batch with 10 egg yolks and 170 uh grams more than a liter, half in each bag, right? Put the bag over the edge of the uh vacuum machine and then cut a hole in between the seal bar and the edge of the machine to let the air come out.
+
+[8:42] This way you have the maximum expansion room in the bag before the mixture starts boiling out all over the vacuum machine. It gives you the maximum space for it to inflate, right? Then drop the lid. Oh, the other thing, I'm sure your mix wasn't cold enough. It's vitally important that you use cold, cold, cold uh egg yolks, cold, cold, cold milk, cold, cold, cold cream.
+
+[9:01] The sugar is never cold usually unless you do your mise en place beforehand and throw it in the fridge for a while, but very few people do that unless you're working for demos. So sometimes when I'm doing demos, I'm fortunate enough to be able to have the uh sugar be cold like that. But you've already aerated it in the vacuum machine, so even though it's cold, it's gonna want to boil over a lot. So what you do is you close it and then you wait. Keep your finger on the stop button.
+
+[9:23] Just keep your finger there. Do not take your finger off. It's gonna start sucking a vacuum, right? And then all of a sudden it's gonna start boiling up a little bit, and you're like, oh, I'm okay, right? It's okay, no problem.
+
+[9:32] And then boom, it's gonna make a run for the border and start spraying up out of the back. At that instant, right before the mixture hits the seal bar, boom, hit stop. Boom. As soon as you hit stop, the seal bar stops, seals it, and stops any more of the egg mixture from coming out, right? Now, you haven't getting rid of all of the air in there, so it will get some flotation in your in your bath, which is why you should weigh it down and crush it down.
+
+[9:54] But it's good enough. And it gets rid of uh, and then the further cooking is gonna pop the rest of those air bubbles, and so you do not have a frothy mixture when you're done, right? You simply don't. Now, if you do pack your stuff in a zippy, right? I've noticed that it tends it cooks, it's fine, and you don't have as many problems with uh, you know, with the overflow, like you say, but there are a couple of other unintended consequences.
+
+[10:19] First, there's more, you're not getting hardly any air out from the blending step when you do it in a zippy. So, what you're gonna have to do is let it sit for a while for the air to kind of like come to the surface and then kind of re-get that air out in the zippy before you cook. One. Two, uh, in side-by-side taste tests, I've noticed that uh creme anglaise, not so with it with that's been put in a blender, one, and it's cooked in a zippy without using a vacuum, has more of a cooked egg flavor, more of a sulphurous cooked egg flavor, than uh creme anglaise cooked in a vacuum bag. That's just been our experience.
+
+[10:44] We've tasted it side by side. It's not that it's bad, it's that if you taste it side by side, you would always choose the one that in a vacuum bag. And uh was there another thing? Oh, last but not least, vacuum bags are extrem, I mean uh sorry, zippies are extremely uh fragile at creme anglaise temperatures, and they feel really, really flimsy. Now, uh this is gonna dovetail into uh what uh John Riper wrote in to us a couple weeks ago, but I haven't had a chance to read yet.
+
+[11:16] Uh there's no safety issue as far as SC Johnson Wax uh uh a family company is concerned, but uh there is uh a possibility of structural failure. Okay? So there you have it. Now on to uh John Riper, who sent us the uh the awesome uh Ducili uh Filberts slat you know, Filberts a hazelnut, right? You like those suckers, right?
+
+[11:36] They look like wood, they're kind of awesome. I'm gonna talk about those more in depth. Uh John sent me on a little bit of a native nutcake. I'm on a kind of a, even though they're not native, with a name like Duchili, how's that gonna be native anyway? But they're important, but whatever, they're old, they're heritage varieties.
+
+[11:49] Uh, but I became interested very recently in hickory nuts, shag bark, shell bark, hickory nuts, and also butternuts, which is a white walnut, you know what I mean? Anyway, so interested in that stuff. Uh you can't get butternuts uh this time of year. Anyone that had them is sold out, and the supply is extremely rare because all the white walnut trees are dying because of uh well, because they're dying from disease. It's kind of a horrible story.
+
+[12:10] But uh uh I I do have some, even though it's also very hard to get hickory nuts at this point, I'm getting some hickory nuts in, so we'll test those, we'll play around with some native nuts, and then we'll talk about it. Yeah? Sure. You excited about the hickory nuts? No.
+
+[12:21] Ah man, how could you not be excited about the hickory nuts? It's like it's like the hickory nut is supposed to be as good as the pecan, like as good as the pecan. Like some people say even better than the pecan, and yet nobody uses it anymore because it's more difficult to harvest and they're more difficult to crack. It's like it's like we you know, I've grown up my whole life thinking that Southerners have a lock on native nuts, the pecan being, you know, fundamentally a gift from heaven. And here I find out later that us northerners also have a you know a a godlike gift from heaven nut, the the the Shag Bark Hickory.
+
+[12:54] And and and I'm 42 freaking years old and I never had one. Is there any justice in that? No. No, none. No, no, no.
+
+[13:01] Okay, my my iPad decided that it didn't want to work. Okay, there we go. Uh so anyway, so John wrote in, uh, not about the nuts. Uh he said, I've been meaning to write the attached letter. He wrote it, he wrote an attached letter, which I don't have here, uh, to SC Johnson ever since Dave shared their email about safe cooking with Ziploc bags a few weeks ago.
+
+[13:16] In my experience, it's pretty rare for big corporations to go out on a limb over much of anything, so it's worth applauding when they do. More useful though is the chance they'd throw some sponsor support your way. So you hear that, S. E Johnson's they're not, they they don't listen, they don't know, they don't care. But I I am uh glad that they did write us that email saying that zippies were okay to use, and I haven't got any pushback from that.
+
+[13:36] Have we had any emails saying that we're bad people? No. Because of that? I mean, we've had emails saying we're bad people, but not because of that, right? Right.
+
+[13:42] Okay. Adam wrote in last week uh about gluten. Gluten. I like that word. You like that word?
+
+[13:48] Gluten. Uh Dave, Nastasha, etc. Hey guys, you're et cetera today. They're not they're not happy and they're they're they're glum in the other room. Okay.
+
+[13:56] Uh I've been thinking how gluten is composed of two separate protein types, glutenin and gliadin. And I'll uh I think I think it's gliadin, not gliden, gliadin. Gliadin. Uh I wonder, is it possible to make a wheat-free? I like saying wheat with a wheat like married.
+
+[14:10] Yeah, wheat. Anyway, is it possible to make a wheat-free loaf of bread that behaved like regular wheat bread by combining flours containing these separate gluten components? Wheat flour uh is typically 11 to 13% protein, 80% of which is gluten, and uh gluten is about a one-to-one ratio between glutenin and gliadin. I guess you know it depends. Everything depends.
+
+[14:31] But anyway, uh, can I duplicate these conditions without wheat flour? I've not been able to find a detailed list of flours and their gluten and gliadin fractions. There are gluten-free websites that list gliadin-containing grains, since gliadin is the primary issue in celiac disease, but these sites do not post hard numbers. I have not found references for a good source of glutenin. Uh would this approach to constructing a loaf of bread work?
+
+[14:51] For example, while rye flour contains gluten, pentasins, pentasins are uh uh five carbon sugars. Uh, you know, the polymers of five carbon sugars. Okay. Pentasans are present that prevent the gluten from forming effectively. My alternative flour combinations have similar negative interactions.
+
+[15:07] The bakery network website, WW that big the bakery network.com, describes how to isolate gluten from flour and then separate the glutenin and gliadin by rinsing with alcohol. Perhaps an alternative approach would be to mix isolated glutenin into a dough made of gliadin-rich flour with the protein relax and reincorporate into a dough. Thanks for your thoughts. Adam. Okay.
+
+[15:24] Uh first of all, I mean, clearly this approach would not help. Uh clearly this approach would not help if someone actually had celiac disease because they can't have the gluten regardless of where it comes from, right? Duh. Uh but uh the question is, is there some source of just straight glutenin? Uh not not that I not that I know of.
+
+[15:46] And I wouldn't necessarily see the, I wouldn't necessarily see the point of uh getting something that's high in gliadin and then adding just uh glutenin when you could just buy vital wheat gluten at the store, you know, and add the vital wheat gluten to uh your bread mix and increase the protein component. Now, as for pentasans, but you know, the what pentasans uh are interesting, um I think you can add enzymes that break them break them down somewhat, and I think there are some enzymes that break them down naturally to kind of reduce the viscosity over time. But they they seem to uh reduce the uh ability of gluten networks to form in two different ways. One, they actually interfere with uh the the interaction between the uh the polymers that are formed when you hydrate uh the gluten, right? And secondly, they increase the viscosity of the water matrix within it and therefore make it difficult more difficult for the gluten to hydrate.
+
+[16:42] So they have a two-step thing. They are actually inhibiting the formation of the network uh, you know, on a molecular level and increasing the viscosity, making less of the water available to the gluten to hydrate. So that's what the pentasans are doing. Now, my presumption is that by doping up to a certain level with vital wheat gluten, which I used to do all the time in low protein flours, just dope it with vital wheat gluten, um, you can ameliorate some of these effects. But I don't know that you're going to be able to make entirely wheat-free, i.e., from no wheat products, including no wheat gluten stuff that has gluten in it.
+
+[17:11] Uh on a separate note that's interesting, uh pentacans, I don't know, I haven't read any human studies, but uh people are very worried about feeding um high pentasin grains to animals uh because they can lower the feed conversion ratio uh because what happens is is the same thing that happens in the in the dough, the pentasan's increase the viscosity, happens in your gut because they don't get broken down uh right away, and so this increased viscosity can lead to a lower absorption of certain nutrients in uh chickens, for instance, that are fed grains high in pentasins. Uh if you want, you can read the article. Increased small intestinal fermentation is partly responsible for the anti-nutritive activity of non starch palysaccharides in chickens. You can go read that if that's the kind of crap you like to read. Which I guess I am.
+
+[17:54] I guess that's me. Yeah, on a side note, uh, I was looking through and I saw Time magazine a couple of months ago came out with an article saying, you know, how twenty check this out, Stuff gonna believe this. Twenty-eight percent of people in the US said to the Time magazine people, or something like close to twenty-eight percent, said that they were trying to reduce the amount of gluten in their diet. Isn't that crazy? Yeah, yeah.
+
+[18:16] I mean, it's crazy. So, what's happened is is that the gluten free market has freaking exploded. Like it's like it's a multi-cajillion dollar industry, because uh all of these people who are like, well, there's some people who are allergic to it, so maybe if I just don't have it too, it's gonna be better for me, even though I'm not allergic to it, even though it does no harm to me at all, even though it does nothing but make my bread delicious. It's new organic. Yeah, but it makes no, it makes no dang it's makes no dang sense.
+
+[18:42] But you know what? Good. Here's two things. Good, good, good, good. Like, make a buck.
+
+[18:48] You know what I mean? If you're gonna if you're gluten freak, so like Piper, who works with us, I'm gonna call him out here. Piper who works with us, he's the uh Booker and Dax lab manager there. He's been on the show once or twice, right? Is that true?
+
+[18:58] Uh Piper is celiac. He's legit, you know what I mean? Like the man can't have gluten. In fact, he like muscles through it like when he took his test at the French culinary, it ate all the gluten, got the huge rash and all this other stuff, and you know, the horrible problems, right? So he's legitimately gluten free, and so and there is a huge rise in actual cases, or so it's reported to me, of people uh, you know, with actual intolerance to gluten.
+
+[19:23] And so if twenty-eight percent of uh the people around there are sheep and believe this craziness that they should get rid of gluten too, even though it has no effect on them, then I say God bless them, because it means that there's more people pouring money into problems that are gonna help out actual people with problems like Piper, right? Yeah. Right? Yeah. Oh, speaking of gluten-free flowers, uh in Africa, did I already talk about this?
+
+[19:42] In Africa, they have a type of millet called phonio. Did I talk about this, Jack or Joe? Not that I can remember. Yeah. So uh there's an increased uh interest in kind of the lost crops of Africa, and there's a bunch of different peop reasons people are interested.
+
+[19:55] Me, taste, right? Uh people in Africa, economics, uh three, I don't know, I guess those are the main ones, right? Economic well, it's economics, politics, uh, ecology, um, you know, soil use, the, you know, uh and and you know, taste. Uh and a lot of the uh, you know, uh like crops that are originally from that area are different species of millet. Millet is not a single uh type of grain in the way that uh you know, wheat is.
+
+[20:22] There are a bunch of different grass families with small seeds uh that are called millet. Uh and you know, they're they're they're combined care their their characteristic that they share is that they're all members of the grass family and that they all have extremely small seeds. So uh a lot of these are very high in, you know, the ones that they use, the small millet, the large millet, and this tiny, tiny, tiny one that's known in Senegal as phonio with an F, uh, are very high in proteins, but apparently not uh gluten and gliadin. So they can be consumed by uh gluten-free uh folk. Now, phonio, I had a loaf of bread in Senegal that was composed, they said, it could just be lying, right?
+
+[20:59] Could just be lying, but they said it was 80% phonio and only 20% wheat, but the texture was like a hundred percent wheat bread. So maybe there's some good uh ideas there for gluten-free people with phonio. If anyone has any experimentation uh that they can send in that they've experimented, I would love to hear about it. I hear that long fermentation times uh make for better millet-based doughs, but I haven't done any research yet. I did bring some back, but haven't had time to play with play with it.
+
+[21:23] I've also heard that Thomas Keller's $15 a pound exclamation point, exclamation point gluten-free flour is pretty good, but I would bet not for bread, I bet for pasta. That's what Mark uh Ladner uses at Del Posta, right? He uses Thomas Keller's fantastically expensive flour. Yes. And he likes it, right?
+
+[21:38] We I tasted it. Were you there when I was there? Yes. Yeah. Uh yeah, yeah, I tasted it.
+
+[21:43] It was good. I mean, look, is it as good as the no side by side? He gives you the one with the gluten, and you're like, that take the gluten. But like, it was pretty good, right? Mm-hmm.
+
+[21:52] Yeah, yeah. I mean, it better because they cooked it better, better than a lot of normal people's real, well, real, gluten full pasta that was, right? Yeah. What am I with my Yoda? You hear how I put that sentence together?
+
+[22:05] No damn sense. All right. Uh Mark Jensen. Should we take a break? Yeah.
+
+[22:09] Yeah, that's great. All right, let's go to our first commercial break cooking issues. This is Chris Young, co-author of Modernist Cuisine. Together with photographer Ryan Matthew Smith and Chef Grant Krilly, we've created something exciting and new at Chefsteps.com. Each day in our kitchen at Seattle's Pike Place Market, we're working on new recipes, as well as updating classic ones that we love.
+
+[22:48] And we're always looking for new techniques that make the impossible possible. At chefsteps.com, we publish it all online with detailed step-by-step demonstrations, as well as explanations of the science that answers the why behind the how in the kitchen. And through our forum, you can engage with our team as well as a friendly community of curious cooks from around the world. If you're interested in becoming a better cook, if you want more from the creative team behind modernist cuisine, and if, like us, you're a fan of Dave Arnold in cooking issues, then we think there's a lot you'll like. And the best part, Chef Steps.com is entirely free to learn.
+
+[23:32] I love that they say they're a fan of cooking issues in that ad. That's quite nice of them. Well, you know, we had the we had the Chris Young uh last week on the show, and we're put in the awkward position of having to cut Chris Young off to play a Chris Young promo. First time it's ever happened. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[23:47] That was good. You know, uh, you know who does their see here's what here's something you gotta like about the Chef Steps. I mean, look, there are sponsors, so you know, but still true. Here's the nice thing that even the people who do you know who does their web work? Oh.
+
+[23:59] Michael Natkin. Really? Yeah, he does their web and software. That's right, I was in touch with him. And so, like, you know, even the person like doing the web work is like a louded and loved food figure.
+
+[24:13] It's great. You know what I'm saying? It's a good community you got coming here. Yeah. Speaking of community, can I do a quick pitch?
+
+[24:17] Yeah, sure. Still membership drive. May is almost over. And uh if if any listener becomes a member by the end of this show, I'm gonna go ahead and title the episode their name. Oh wow.
+
+[24:27] Whoa. So, you know, act now. This is but this is like re a real act now, not like where you call in and you get five sham wows for the price of one or something like that. No, no, it's not like that. Okay.
+
+[24:38] Uh, but uh That's Heritage Radio Network.org and click the donate button on the right side right there. Can you put a shamwow button there? We can sell shamwals off that thing? Take a slide. I wish I had sham.
+
+[24:48] You know, if anyone's listening and wants to send us some shamwows so we could use them over here. Here's something I it's not mine to give, to give or to say we should have a contest for it, but there is an awesome pair of cowhair chaps in the studio that I've tried to steal like three times. Maybe that should be like a like a thing once. I think we should make shamwows that have the logo, the cooking issues logo on them. That'll be sweet.
+
+[25:09] And then if you call in and become member. You get some cooking issue shamways? Yeah, exactly. No, it'd be awesome. Well, back to the chef steps for a second.
+
+[25:16] You know who I haven't really spent a lot of time hanging around with from Chef Steps is Grant. He's like, you know, Grant and Chris. Grant, apparently, huge badass. Awesome guy. I mean, I met him a couple times uh at the when Modernist Food was doing their like uh tour de cuisine around the around the country and in the in the Seattle.
+
+[25:32] But uh apparently just like a monster cook. That's what I hear. Anyway. Okay. Uh by the way, still time to call new questions.
+
+[25:40] Dude, 718497, 2128, that's 7184972128. Mark Jensen writes in regarding eggs. Mark Jensen here, fork in the road mobile galley. You know, I'm gonna have to have galley kitchen in my next uh apartment. It's kind of depressing.
+
+[25:52] I don't like galley. You like galley kitchens? It's okay. I mean, because I want like right now in my apartment, I'm moving my apartment. It's kind of it's it's good because each of my kids are gonna have a room, but my kitchen now is like kind of being it's kind of beat down at this point because it's been ten years and I've done anything to it.
+
+[26:06] Like literally. But it's like sweet because you can fit eight people in my kitchen cooking and interacting and having fun without bumping butts. You know what I mean? Because I'm not worried about I'm not a commercial kitchen, the space isn't at a huge premium there. So I'm a little worried about how tight it's gonna be the next time around.
+
+[26:22] What do you think? And Stash is like, don't care, don't care. Okay. Uh fork in the Road Mobile Gallery from Mexican, Kentucky. Here's a question.
+
+[26:30] Lexington. I need to go back to Kentucky at some point soon. I had a good time. I like Kentucky. I like bourbon and I like ham.
+
+[26:35] If you like bourbon, you like ham. I mean, horses are okay. Do you like horses? Yeah. But you like bourbon?
+
+[26:41] Yeah. Do you like ham? Yeah. So, you know, Kentucky. Anyway.
+
+[26:44] Three yeses in a row. Yeah, right? Whoa. Why what is she doing here? She hates everything here.
+
+[26:49] Yeah. Right? I don't think they have hipsters in uh I didn't see any hipsters in Kentucky. No, they do in Louisville, for sure. Okay.
+
+[26:57] Yes, that's probably true. Yeah. Uh here's a question about uses for leftover eggs. Leftover 64 Celsius eggs. Now, for those of you out there, when you're doing low temperature cooking on eggs, uh, 90% of the eggs that you're going to use are one of three temperatures.
+
+[27:09] 62, 62 Celsius in an immersion circulator. If you cook a chicken egg at 62 Celsius for uh 45 minutes to an hour, you're gonna get like a classic eggs, Benedict egg in terms of the yolk, and the outside's gonna be custardy. If you want to make it harder on the outside, white, you can drag it through simmering water on the way to service, okay? And you just cook it in the shell, you crack it out, and it cracks out beautifully. It's wonderful, it's amazing, and the life-changing technique, yada yada.
+
+[27:34] 63 degrees Celsius, right? Or anything really above 62, like 62, 5, 62, three, uh, you know, 62, something there, 63, you get what's called a creamy yolk, where the yolk is creamy throughout, but is more like a sauce, almost like uh thick on glaze or a custard. Really nice. I really like that for uh bro like soups where you don't want it to bleed out entirely, but you want to be able to mix in eventually as a fine sauce or in an aspic. Sometimes I like it where you don't want it to run out entirely.
+
+[28:00] 64 is really, really creamy, but only sags a little bit. Now what I call it is just set. So those are the three temperatures that are gonna comprise 90% of the eggs that you cook in an immersion circulator. Alright? Okay.
+
+[28:15] Okay. I often run my circulator, uh my food truck for soft egg dishes, inevitably with some leftovers in a service. Never wanting to waste, especially a delicious fresh local egg. I chill them in an ice bath and use it the next day as an ingredient in other dishes. So far, discarding the alabumin and jet that you know the white and just using the yolk.
+
+[28:31] I started with salad dressings. Caesars, of course, but as an emulsifier in all uh in almost anything. And I just went the next step and subbed them in a Monero's cuisine's Hollandaise recipe, which we talked a little bit about last time. Uh instead of cooking the raw egg yolk bags and zippies in a circulator, I simply blended the uh cold 64 degrees C yolks with the vinegar reduction to make a great base for the butter to emulsify it into. It's freaking fantastic.
+
+[28:53] It works better than the original recipe. Take that, take that. It works better than the original recipe, and the thick texture uh coming out of the ISI because they were shooting their holidays out of the ISI gun is fantastic. That's a good use. My question, first, I can't think of any dangers outside of temperature control in doing this.
+
+[29:10] Can you? No. As long as the as long as you um you know are using it with it, it's an RTE food, right? So you treat it like any other RTE food where you've uh you know killed um, you know, the pathogens in it and you know use it accordingly. So if you let it sit out for a long time cold, then you're shafted.
+
+[29:28] You know what I mean? If you heat it up to temperatures that are going to be like if you put it in an ISI in a warm bane and you keep it in that Bane Marie at a temperature above the kill, you know, the kill point for you know whatever you're interested in, salmonella, listeria, whatever, uh, then you know, no, it's totally safe. So I can't think of any extra uh problems. Uh second, you must have uh have leftover low temp eggs from time to time. What do you like to do with them?
+
+[29:53] Uh thanks, and please send me a Searsol ASAP. Uh okay. Uh still thinking uh Sears On is the name to go with. Get it on versus off. Anyway, Mark Jensen's uh Fork in the Roll Mobile Galley.
+
+[30:05] You know, I never I mean like usually what I've never done a whole bunch like for service had sixty-four eggs. We you know would mostly run sixty-two's for Benedict and 62s you can honestly uh reuse the next day straight up. You know what I mean? Like you can because what we do is is we cook the 60 here. And you might be able to do this with a 63 or 64 as well.
+
+[30:27] So we cook the 60 uh let's say 62. We cook the egg at 62 for uh an hour, and usually we over we overload the the uh the thing, and so you know, once it gets back up to temp, we give it like an hour, an hour and fifteen minutes, right? And then we drop the temperature to 57. At 57 Celsius, there's no creep at all. It's totally safe, right?
+
+[30:51] And there's no creep at all in uh in the egg yolk texture over the course of a whole service. You could take those same eggs, put them in uh in cold water, whatever, put them in the fridge, bring them back up the next day, you know, so you then you cook off your next uh day's eggs, and then you put uh you know, after you cook them when it's time to re-therm, you throw the eggs from the uh the previous day in when you when you had it at 57, they come up to temp so that they're warm enough to serve in about 20 minutes, and then you 30, and then you can uh and then you can use them, you know, obviously use them first, but you can use them like yesterday's eggs uh without I've never noticed a loss in quality, uh unless you're rough with them and the whites can suffer a little bit. Now that's at 62. Once you get up to 63 and 64 and the whites start to get more set, you might have a little bit of weirder whites on the second day, but you can uh try it. But I think your use of the uh the egg yolk is uh awesome.
+
+[31:49] I can't think of any, I couldn't think of any uses for the whites. But someone will call in. I mean, you could always just crack them into a pot of boiling water, the thin whites will go away, hard cook those suckers, and then use them in an egg salad, and everybody knows that everybody who's anybody likes an egg salad. Stas, do you like an egg salad? Even Stas likes an egg salad.
+
+[32:07] Four yeses. Egg salad delicious. Jack, Joe, am I right on this? Yes. Egg salad.
+
+[32:12] God, I love egg salad. Uh it's really weird. Like it like theoretically you would think that I mean it's it's it's it's perceived as kind of like a low rent kind of a thing, but it's really delicious. Like, why would that be a low-end thing? You like celery in your egg salad?
+
+[32:25] Yeah. Yeah, you too. I know some people don't like celery in their egg salad. I think they're wrong. Okay.
+
+[32:30] Uh Mattia writes in about sous vide and safety. Hi, Dave, Nastasha, Jack, and you ready? Others. You like that, Joe? Others.
+
+[32:39] Okay. Thanks for a great show. Did you give a boo? Did you give a booty? I gave a little bit of a boo.
+
+[32:43] You gotta have like the boo button. You need a boo button. That's true. We should get like a ghost or something. Yeah, like did what did Booberry ever say a boo on air for booberry cereal?
+
+[32:52] I'll go through YouTube and I'll pull one out. Do you know a booberry uh contains uh FNDC blue one? I think it's one, right? And uh we have a container of it, maybe two, I can't remember. And uh, if you eat enough of that, you don't uh defecate blue, you defecate green.
+
+[33:07] Did you know that? No, but did you tell everybody about your cereal puffer yet? Can we get to that before the show ends? Uh yeah, why don't we want to Okay, so that's yeah, maybe I should talk about it. Did I talk about that at all?
+
+[33:19] Not really, dude. Alright, so it turns out in the olden days, when I say olden, I mean olden. Or currently, they still use this machine in uh Mexico, uh, and where's the other place? Possibly Poland. There's a third Peru, right?
+
+[33:30] Uh so when you wanted to make puff cereals, here's what you did. You took your grain, you tempered it out to I think around 12%, 12 to 14% moisture somewhere in there, right? Tempering very important. Uh I think you can do it with things other than grain, but that's mainly what they did. Uh and then you put it in a sealed chamber, all right.
+
+[33:45] And the sealed chamber has a porthole on it with a like a door that shuts down really tight. It's got a huge giant locking mechanism, like a giant vice grip on it. Then you spin it so that it keeps on uh spinning so that everything's even. It's like a tumbler, almost like a dryer, right? Then you put a uh uh uh a propane flame on it, like a big blower, like for a for uh for a furnace.
+
+[34:06] And you heat that sucker up until it gets up to like a hundred and seventy or a hundred and eighty psi, like three hundred and sixty-five degrees Fahrenheit, something like that. And when it gets up to there, you stop it, and you hit the lever with a lead pipe. Might be a steel pipe, but I'm hoping it's a lead pipe, because that's food, that's food safe, right? Uh you hit it and boom, the thing flies up and boom, the pressure releases, and uh each individual grain just puffs instantly into puffed wheat, puffed corn, puffed rice, puffed anything, right? And this is how puff cereal was originally made, and it was called a puffing gun.
+
+[34:42] And that is that's why, like if anyone of you remember the, you know, I don't, I was not born yet, but I used to listen to a comedian named Stan Freeberg from the 50s when I was growing up because my parents listened to him. And so, you know, I'm familiar with all the old marketing terms because he was an ad guy. He's still alive. Uh and uh and they the old um motto used to be shot from guns, because that's what they used to say about puff cereals that it was shot from guns because legitimately it was shot from puffing guns. They knew have newer technology called continuous puffers that no longer work on this batch technology, and they're only used in countries that can't uh don't have the infrastructure to support uh moving the larger pieces of continuous puffing equipment around, but they're still used, and they're made by the Piritan Manufacturing Corporation of Omaha, Nebraska, in the same way that they were made decades and decades and decades ago.
+
+[35:26] And the Museum of Food and Drink just received a couple of weeks ago our very own puffing gun, and I could not be more excited because I'm gonna puff everything. Like anything you I'm gonna puff the hell out of. I'm gonna take dried shrimp, I'm gonna see if I can puff shrimp. I don't know if I can because it's protein, not a carbo, whatever. I'm gonna puff it.
+
+[35:43] I'm gonna puff it. You name it, I'm gonna puff it. Like, I'm gonna take all these books on this bookshelf, I'm gonna try to puff these bookshelves. Um this summer, if you're in New York City, uh late summer, because we have to build a truck and we have to make it food grade and we have to get our permitting and all that. But look for the Museum of Food and Drink to be hauling a puffing gun around uh as the first step towards our cereal exhibit that we're gonna have as the first exhibit the Museum of Food uh puts out.
+
+[36:07] What do you think, Jack? And you know where it's being stored, people? Puffing guns being stored at the Heritage Meet, uh at the Heritage Meat Headquarters. Heritage Foods USA. Heritage Foods USA, but yeah.
+
+[36:16] Because not only is Heritage Radio and Heritage uh Heritage Foods, Heritage Meats a uh a longtime supporter of the museum, but Patrick Martins, our founder, is on the board. On the board. That's it. Okay. I've got great news.
+
+[36:30] What's that? William McGee just became a member. So that will be the title of today's episode. Yeah? Yeah.
+
+[36:36] William McGee. William McGee. Thanks, man. William McGee. Nice.
+
+[36:39] Thanks. Thanks. Thanks, William. I appreciate it. Okay.
+
+[36:43] Uh Matea writes in about Sue Vid and safety. Uh hi, Dave, Nastasha, Jack, and others. Thanks for a great show. I was recommended your show by a friend and started to try and catch up on your archive. Many hours of listening to Duke.
+
+[36:53] Nah, don't bother. I'm kidding. It's does like, yeah, really. Uh, to let you know how I am. I'm a computer electronic engineer, impassioned by cooking, and I'm living in Sweden.
+
+[36:59] A while back I started to learn about sous vide cooking as I'm totally amazed by it, especially cooking tough meats for long numbers of hours, 10, 24, 72 hours. I would like to try to learn to cook most food sous vide, especially all kinds of meat that benefit in both long time cooking and tender cuts, obviously shorter times. I'm currently using the poly science creative circulator, which I think is great, though I'm curious about the safety aspects. Where in the temperature zone is the actual danger zone or safe zones if you invert it. Is the so-called danger zone between 3.3 Celsius and 54 degrees 4 Celsius?
+
+[37:32] Or between 3.3 degrees Celsius and 60 degrees Celsius. 60, that's 140 for you guys out there. 60 is 140. Always remember 60 Celsius, 140 Fahrenheit. It's one of those magical numbers you need to remember.
+
+[37:43] Okay. At what temperature can uh uh I pasteurize safely and keep it there for long cooking? Does that temperature start at 55 degrees Celsius? Or do I need to move it up to 60 degrees Celsius? This is my main question.
+
+[37:53] Uh and which intervals shall I avoid, especially cooking long hours? This is my second main question. Though I'm aware that there are many other benefits to work in the 60 degrees plus domain for tough meats as enzymes get more active, etc. Although you know they get the act well, I'm I'm not gonna get into that, it would take too long. But I'm curious for a pure bacteria parasites killing perspective in this question.
+
+[38:11] The reason for the question, he said I find different resources that seem to be contradictory. Uh, and I'll reference them below. I'm interested in knowing that I get a decent reduction of all normal pathogens and parasites, including Triconello and cooking pork. What's the story behind the different statements? 54.4 versus 60.
+
+[38:26] And then he references uh Douglas Baldwin's sites, who he usually has pretty good numbers. Uh Thomas Keller's book, Under Pressure. Uh Thomas Keller's book under pressure specifically uh puts the danger zone at 4.4 to 60. So in other words, refrigeration temp upper sh up to 140. And that's my main gripe with that book, actually.
+
+[38:44] That's just it's wrong. I think, and you know, I've heard discussions of it with people who are involved. And the issue is they didn't want to get into complicated, they didn't want to get into complicated discussions about temperature versus time. Yeah, that that was like the that was like the unfortunate part about that book is is them saying that you shouldn't keep meats um below 140 60 degrees Celsius for long periods of time when everybody knows that cooking at 55 degrees Celsius for 72 hours is entirely safe and above 544 for any length of time in meat in beef, any length of time, uh not ground beef, but any length of time for a whole muscle cut over 544 uh over 117 minutes. So 117 minutes and above a minimum of 117 minutes guarantees safety according to the old food codes.
+
+[39:32] So uh so that thing on uh the under pressure numbers is like entirely strange uh thing and kind of I think like the weak spot of that book. The recipes I think seem to be pretty good, right? Mm-hmm. Uh I mean, although I don't know, I haven't cooked a lot of them. Uh then Suvid uh looking at cuisine technology website, it states that the danger zone is between 4.4 and 60, but then they say at the rule of thumb is that vegetative pathogen and parasite development can grow only below 54.4, which seems fair uh compared to the bald wind sites.
+
+[40:02] And then uh it it references an interesting um there's a bunch of sites that say a bunch of a bunch of different things. I'm not gonna go through each one of them because they're all different. And most of this stuff people are are are basically uh wrong. Uh there's, you know, there's one site that's he mentions that's interesting called uh the a food authority. What is it?
+
+[40:22] It's something I'll have to look at it and then and call you out later, but it's basically saying that there needs to be more study. Right, right? Which is absolutely true. Here's the real deal, okay? Uh 140 degrees, 60 degrees Celsius, is the temperature at which most of the pathogens that we're interested in are killed in very, very quick order, right?
+
+[40:42] So uh that number is on the safety uh in the food safety thing. Anything below that is is shown as this uh danger zone because uh they don't trust you to do accurate measurements at anything below that temperature, and if it hits that temperature, you're pretty much guaranteed to have wiped out anything that's a problem, right? And that's why they choose those numbers. And because they assume that there's a lot higher contamination on ground meat, even though the pathogens of interest are the same on ground meat as on uh fresh meat, they put the ground meat numbers even higher because they want to make sure that you rapidly kill everything on there, right? Does that mean that in order to kill bacteria you need to make it up to that temperature?
+
+[41:25] Absolutely not. Okay? So most pathogens grow very well up to about 40 degrees Celsius, and somewhere between 40 and 50 degrees Celsius go into a static no growth phase. All right. So anything above 50 degrees Celsius, so anything below 50 I don't trust uh uh as as a safety measure for cooking uh for cooking things, for killing bacteria.
+
+[41:51] And in fact, I don't use anything below 54.4, even though there are probably numbers that but are below 54.4 degrees Celsius that will kill uh most of the bacteria of interest if cooked long enough. I don't have any data that supports the thermal death times for a bacteria at those temperatures, and so I don't recommend any procedures below that temperature for pasteurization purposes, okay? Because remember, the lower you go on a temperature, just be so there's two things you want to do when you're when you're heating something. You want to make it taste good, three things. You want to make it taste good, that's the most important thing from my standpoint.
+
+[42:25] Two, you want to prevent bacteria from growing, right? And you want to kill the bacteria that are present. Cooking over 50, uh, you know, and definitely over 52 Celsius, which is Bruno Gusot's number, is going to prevent the pathogens. There are bacteria that grow well above that temperature. There's bacteria that grow on thermal vents in 2022 degree uh, you know, uh water.
+
+[42:46] Uh but the pathogens of interest aren't going to be growing above uh uh it will take Gusot's, you know, nice but you know, number 52. They're not gonna be growing above that number, right? But the question is how fast are you killing them, right? And so for the bacteria that are present that you're trying to kill, right? The lower the temperature above the begin kill zone, the longer it takes.
+
+[43:09] And I don't have curves that tell you how long to cook a piece of meat to pasteurize it when you're at 54 below 54.4. And so I don't give any uh numbers for below 54.4. So the the the problem is is that uh you know they write the codes and this this term safety zone, danger zone, is is supposed to be like kind of a bone-headed rule that we can all just follow and will guarantee safety. And it is. If you follow that old, you know, uh, you know, fridged up to uh 60 degrees Celsius, 140 rule, yeah, you're gonna make safe products because that's inherently safe.
+
+[43:47] However, uh it's not nuanced enough. There are many products that are safe. They're cooked below that temperature. It's just a question of now you need to actually worry about being precise and you need to worry about how long you cook something, right? So it puts an extra variable in that the food code under its normal guises doesn't want to handle.
+
+[44:05] They'd much rather just have a cook at the 60s so it's safe kind of a thing. You know what I mean? Because remember, the regulatory boards out there, they're not, they're not tasked with giving you as a cook everything that you want to make the products as delicious as you want them to do. Their only task is to ensure that food that is served to the public is safe. That's it.
+
+[44:25] They don't care whether it's delicious. That's not their job. You know what I mean? I mean it's dead. Yep.
+
+[44:29] Yeah. Okay. Was that helpful or no? Yes. Okay.
+
+[44:32] Uh Enigo Aguirre writes in on carbonation. Dear Dave, I've been trying to apply carbonation to beverages for quite some time with poor results. I've tried the ISI soda siphon and got very poor carbonation, even after using very cold water. That makes sense. It's very I'll tell you how to do it in a minute.
+
+[44:47] Uh various types of liquid shaking after each CO2 charge and leaving it in the fridge long enough to help further uh uh dissolution of CO2 or dissolving of CO2. In the meantime, I got a hold of a 300 gram CO2 bottle and a beer regulator that I'm trying to connect with a soft drink bottle through a tire valve. Uh see the photo. I'm still having poor results because there's a slight leak of CO2 through the valve. Uh there are no screws through the valve, and I believe uh I've been searching around a lot and cannot manage the PSI that I'm aiming for.
+
+[45:15] But I'm working to find a kind of glue that would stick to the plastic and rubber and would tolerate high pressure. Hopefully we'll have it solved by tomorrow, though if you're aware of any simpler way of attaching a bottle to a regulator, I would really appreciate your advice. I'm going crazy. On the product end, I'm trying to work on a gin and tonic made by cold infused quinine bark, citric acid and sugar, and gin. The flavor is more dirty than a GNT, but nevertheless interesting and inspired by your gin and juice that I had a few weeks ago on a trip to New York City.
+
+[45:37] Would like to serve it in a champagne glass. My questions How do you manage to get such greatly thin and elegant bubbles? I work on it. Uh what PSI temperature combination do you apply and how many recharges do you apply in order to get the right carbonation? And do you know the amount of CO2 that you can uh get to dissolve per liter?
+
+[45:52] I've read that champagne holds about 12 grams per liter. Is this about right for the cocktail? What are the differences between carbonating soft drinks and other cocktails that include an alcohol? And I understand that with alcohol you need more PSI, but how much? Any other tricks?
+
+[46:03] Thanks so much in advance. Excuse me for sending such a long email and eagle Aguirre. Okay, first of all, uh so I looked at the picture. He is using a tire valve, which is a Schrader valve that is being uh kind of bolted into the top of a regular PET bottle. This technique goes back to about 2002 from the grandmaster of carbonating at home, uh Richard J.
+
+[46:24] Kinch. And I noticed that uh his technique was ripped off in a bunch of instructables without uh for well, of course without crediting him because people are D bags. So, uh, you know, I had already had at that point a professional uh a professional carbonating rig at home because that's the only way I knew how to get carbonation at that point when he wrote it. But when I read his uh article on home carbonation, it was before I had the carbonator caps, which is how I do it now. Essentially, his technique is a homemade version of the carbonator cap sold by liquid bread.
+
+[46:53] I highly recommend that you purchase a liquid bread carbonator cap and the bottle in bag uh syrup uh not the bottle in the bag, the uh the pre mix uh um ball lock valves that go with it. They are they're very cheap. The you can get the cap for uh 15 bucks at any homebrew supply online, and you can get the rest of the stuff which goes right on your hose with no leaks and a hose clamp for about three bucks. And with that, you can turn any uh soda bottle into a really great carbonation uh thing. Aside from the leak, which may or may not be the problem, when you're carbonating straight water, you're gonna want to be about 35 PSI.
+
+[47:31] When you're carbonating a cocktail like a gin and tonic, you're gonna want to shoot for about 14% alcohol and about 45 PSI. When you're carbonating water, you're gonna want it to be about maybe 40, 35 to 40. You're gonna want it to be at zero degrees Celsius. There should be chunks of ice in it, it should be cold. Uh remember it's gonna heat as you carbonate it and it's gonna get warm because you're not feeling it while you're doing it.
+
+[47:49] Two, when you're carbonating a cocktail, you're gonna want it to be about twenty-two degrees Fahrenheit when you're working. That's the number where you want 22, 23, at about 14%. That's the number. Uh and you're gonna want to go 45. The reason you need more uh uh carbonation is because alcohol absorbs more CO2.
+
+[48:05] So to have the effect of CO2 on you, you're gonna need to have um uh higher pressure. The other thing you're gonna need to do is get rid of the air space when you're carbonating. It's a classic thing. That's the reason you got bad carbonation in your in your ISI was the ISI is very difficult, especially if you use a soda siphon, you can actually get better carbonation results out of using a regular whipped cream maker than you can out of the soda one because at least you can purge the head space. If you're using an ISI and you want to get a good result, you throw in, get it very cold.
+
+[48:31] You can even keep ice in the ISI. You put one charger in, you shake it a little bit, you foam it all off instantly to get rid of all of the bubbles and nucleation sites that are in the thing, and to purge the head space of oxygen and nitrogen, whatever else. Then you throw in your second charger, shake it, let it sit, then it will be carbonated if you release it slowly. When you're doing it in a bottle, you need to squeeze out all of the headspace, which is why soda bottles are so great. Get rid of all that air in the headspace, only fill it uh about three quarters full.
+
+[48:56] Close it, carbonate it once, let it foam off, getting rid of nucleation sites. Carbonate it again, foam it off again, get rid of more nucleation sites, carbonate it a third time. By the third time, you should let it sit in the in the freezer for a little while to mellow out. Then you can uncap it very carefully and pour it and you should be good. The other problem you're having with that valve is unless you shut off the gas, you're opening up the gas when it's under pressure.
+
+[49:14] It's gonna make a mess everywhere. But anyway, so go get the carbonator cap. Uh make sure that everyone gives uh high praises to Richard uh J. Kinch, the the granddaddy of the carbonation cap, right? Lastly, they're gonna kick me off here in a minute.
+
+[49:33] But lastly, Pauline writes out uh from Alaska. I'm a huge fan of your show. Well, potting up some starch for the garden. I heard you discuss ways to screw up immersion blender mayo and suggest my solution a wide-mouth pint mason jar. Works for me.
+
+[49:45] I also have a question, a topic rather. I was hoping that you might pontificate a bit on smoking salmon and other fish. I live in an interior of Alaska, where they have awesome fish, and make annual pilgrimage to dip net the yearly quota for various salmon species. This is one of the greatest things about living in Alaska. I fillet some, cut some into steaks for near immediate consumption, leave a huge a few whole for extravagant harvest parties, and smoke slash dry the rest.
+
+[50:08] Not like that palette pasty stuff shaved that they sell in the store. Our smoked salmon should be almost jerky-like and full of smoky, slightly salty, sweet flavor. I love the smoked salmon. Uh I love smoked salmon and want to do better, learn more, etc. Thus, I'd like to hear what you might suggest, including ways you'd like to use this fish candy.
+
+[50:25] Uh okay, first of all, just so you know, like the like uh I'm sure most of our listeners know that, like, you know, there's salmon, there's Atlantic salmon, right? And then there's Pacific salmon, and they're not the same species. And in the Pacific salmon, there's a bunch of different species that they get up there in Alaska. They get the Chinook slash the king, which is the highest in fat content, the sake, which is you know also known as the red, which doesn't have quite as much fat, but has a real kind of punchy salmon flavor, so a lot of people like it. The coho, uh, which is also kind of high in fat, and then the chum, which is lower, and the pink, which is lower.
+
+[50:54] They're not bad, they're just lower in fat, and everyone wants the super high-fat salmons, both because of the omega bull crap, but also because they like the luscious flavor of fat. And if you're smoking, actually, high fat is nice because the fat's gonna pick up more on the smoke. Okay. So, um, so here's what I'm assuming you first of all, that the stuff that you're saying is pale pasty shaved stuff in the supermarket. I look, I agree.
+
+[51:13] Smoked, most smoked uh salmon that you get in the supermarket when it's vacuum-packed is wretched. But the same style of salmon, i.e., not the salmon you're talking about, the same style of salmon is incredibly delicious when you get someone to uh cut it, hand-cut it off of the whole fillet, and you eat it after it's never been vacuum-packed and allowed to get all mushy and nasty. I can attest, they are not even the same product. You know, I I don't know who sells it in Alaska, but when you go to uh New York, go to buy Russ and Daughters and have them hand slice you some of their some of their uh their their salmon. It's incredibly delicious.
+
+[51:47] But so the procedure that you're using in Alaska, I'm assuming is you do an initial brine. The initial brine is going to kill uh some of the uh or it's gonna prevent some of the bacteria from growing. It's gonna be a kind of a curing step. Then you're gonna air dry it, then you're gonna equalize it, or you're gonna equalize it rather, then you're gonna air dry it, and then you're gonna smoke it. I'm assuming you're talking cold smoking.
+
+[52:06] Actually, you know what to hear the thing? I did a bunch, a bunch of research on uh on the kind of safety. Uh, and I guess we should talk about it next time because I'm told I'm gonna have to leave now. Should I talk about it more in depth next time? Or should I go?
+
+[52:18] Do I have time? Next time. Next time? Alright. Well, on the well, Pauline, I'm gonna talk more about it next time.
+
+[52:24] It's a really interesting subject, especially safety. There's a couple of references I want to give you. They're cutting me off here, but guess what? The New York Times came up with a thing saying uh if you don't have high blood pressure, uh you shouldn't worry about your sodium intake. And not that I believe that study more than any other, because I'm very skeptical, but told you've been saying that for a while.
+
+[52:41] Told ya! Told ya, cooking issues. I want to give another shout out to William McGee. Thanks for becoming a member, man. Cooking issues.
+
+[52:59] Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization.
+
+[53:23] To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] This is Chris Young, co-author of Modernist Cuisine. I'd like to invite you to check out Chefsteps.com. It's a free website we've created as a place to learn new cooking techniques and collaborate with curious cooks from around the world. Sign up now at Chefsteps.com. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.org, a nonprofit, member supported radio station.
+
+[0:22] We're millions strong. With folks tuning in from over 200 countries. We are education. We are entertainment. We are the future of food.
+
+[0:32] May is our membership drive. Become a member and support us while receiving the newsletters, advanced invites, special discounts, and a membership card. We need your support. Visit our website and click the donate button to become a member today. Thank you for believing in us and enjoy the show.
+
+[0:56] Cooking issues. Cooking issues! Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live on the Heritage Radio Network in the back of Robertus P3 in Bushwick, Brooklyn. How are you guys doing?
+
+[1:37] Calling your questions to 7184972128. That's 718497-2128. Join in the studio. As usual with uh Nastash and the Hammer. How are you doing?
+
+[1:46] Good. Yeah? You alright? Yeah. Uh Jack and Joe in the engineering booth, plus uh uh a host of new people that are coming uh on board.
+
+[1:54] We have uh Eddie, right? Correct. Yeah, you're you're uh gonna be uh another associate producer over here at the Hurst Ray number. Yes, the associopath producer, yes, that's me. Yeah, we're coming up with a new uh a new thing, the uh sociopath producer.
+
+[2:06] Uh stay tuned for that. And uh DeRick in the engineering booth, correct? What's up? Yes, right. How you doing?
+
+[2:11] Thanks, guys. Yeah, so we got a full studio today, which I like. Uh and uh so uh what happened this week. I just got back from my 20th year reunion at uh at the Yale College over there. And uh you know what, Sas?
+
+[2:25] But the people, I was expecting like a bunch of really terrible looking people. Like I expected like just like a real like poop fest of like awful looking folk, like you know, totally decrepit, bloated out, nasty, like droopy, like just all bad. Yeah, you know what? They looked great. Really?
+
+[2:42] Yeah, they look great. Did they like your talk? Oh, yeah, I gave a talk, uh it's called uh turbo talk, which is like uh a variant of uh this kind of like 20 slides, 20 seconds, which I can't pronounce like petcha kuchka, petcha ku pet, you know, something like that. Uh yeah, it went well, I think. I mean, uh I did my normal strategy, which was fit a 30-minute talk into six minutes.
+
+[3:01] Yeah. So I just spoke as fast as I could, and I didn't have any water. I went completely dry. My wife was in the audience. Jen, she said that I was turning red in the face, and that you know, you could see that like little bit of dry mouth spittle forming on the edges of my lips as I was like, you know, belting out, you know, at eight billion words a minute, what was going on.
+
+[3:19] But I think it went all right. I think it was fine. But anyway, the interesting fact to me is the fact that uh everyone looked uh really good, and uh it just kind of drove home to me one of the issues I think we're gonna be looking into the museum, and I need to do my own uh research on, is that um the the problem with nutrition in this country is uh is kind of exacerbated, I think, by the fact that the people who are making the rules in general are people that aren't living the problems. So you have like a group of extremely educated, uh rather probably well-to-do, fairly liberal uh Ivy uh league types, and these are like the policymakers uh of for this sort of thing. And uh they all look great because they have the time, energy, and knowledge to spend on this problem, and then you have the the rest of the people that are getting legislated uh at and and preached at by this group of people who are the ones having the real problems.
+
+[4:16] So I you know I really think uh you know we're gonna be spending a lot of time kind of delving into the stats and kind of breaking this problem uh down uh more thoroughly. But it was really uh, I mean, I know it's anecdotal, one college reunion, but really kind of stark uh slap in the face. In a good way, f in in a in some sense, because I was you know surprised at how good everyone looked, but there's a darker side to the looking good. Uh okay. Uh had a comment in uh from Mike Mallory.
+
+[4:44] Can you forward this to Dave Nastasha? Uh long time listener, love the show. You answered a question about gluten intolerance that was a bit misinformed on the William McGee episode. I love it's called the William McGee episode. Not Harold, William listener, uh uh Harold doesn't listen.
+
+[4:59] Although Harold might be here next week. True or false? He is gonna be here in Brooklyn? Or on the phone. Uh well, he's gonna be in New York City in the real life this next week because of this like science festival thing that's going World Science Festival that uh Mustache and I are doing some sort of uh cocktail for.
+
+[5:15] You didn't know you were going, but you are. Yeah. Uh uh so, anyways, so yeah, he's gonna be in town and uh if uh if he is going to be in town on the Tuesday, I said that I would handcuff him and bring him into the studio. Wow. Yeah.
+
+[5:29] I think he actually leaves Tuesday, so a lot depends on when he's leaving, but I don't even know that he's eaten in Roberta's before, so maybe we can woo him with like even maybe above the pizza level. If Harold McGee comes in, can he get above the pizza and salad level of uh of cooking issues remuneration for uh for service rendered? Certainly. I think I'll even pay for his card to JFK. Wow!
+
+[5:49] Nice job, Joe. Whoa. Wow. Joe's a baller now. Yeah, you like that?
+
+[5:55] That's crazy. All right. Uh okay. Uh sorry. Uh you answered a question about gluten intolerance that was a bit misinformed on the William McGee episode.
+
+[6:02] Gluten intolerance is not the same as celiac. Uh it's well known uh in the research that a good chunk of the population mounts an immune reaction to gluten, gliadin, uh, but is not uh specifically a celiac or have like uh you know a health uh what would you call it? This is paraphrasing a health endangering allergy or something. What would you call it anyway? Uh gluten intolerance is a gray area but still measurable via lab test uh below full-blown celiac, which is more severe and immediate and an immediate uh immunoglobulin uh response.
+
+[6:30] I say gray area because there's a huge spectrum of mucosal membrane-based immune immune response, IgA uh uh things that mount slow inflammatory reactions to gluten. It's often called subclinical gluten intolerance because the body has a measurable reaction, but not a true allergic reaction. It's a different type of immune response, but you should know the difference between an intolerance and an allergy. Not all folks avoid gluten because it's bad for celiacs. That's not to say most people who avoid gluten at restaurants aren't full of sugar honey iced tea.
+
+[6:58] Uh it would be nice if chefs knew that there isn't just a black and white celiac or not, and that there's a whole class of immune mediated reactions, aka gluten intolerance. Mike Mallory. Mike, point well taken. Uh point well taken. Too simplified in the last thing, but uh, I guess simplified for effect, which is there's a whole uh group of people there who are full of sugar honey iced tea.
+
+[7:22] But uh I think my point last week was also that I'm kind of glad. Like, I don't care. I'm glad. Look, people like me who have no problem with the gluten, like we're gonna pound as much gluten as we can. In fact, I was talking to someone at the at the reunion who's gluten in uh you know, gluten intolerant.
+
+[7:37] She's actually celiac, and so we were discussing this uh this issue with them, and she was like, Yeah, man, if I could eat gluten, I would be swimming through loaves of baguettes. You know, I'd be like chomping, swimming through loaves of baguettes and you know, inhaling pizzas as fast as I could eat them because stuff's delicious, but uh, but can't anyway. But you know, again, thank goodness for the people who don't uh consume it uh for no apparent reason because they create a huge industry that allows people like uh our good piper to be able to eat better products. Yeah? But anyway, point well taken.
+
+[8:11] Now, back to the mystical myth. Oh, Stas. So you went to uh the Rhode Island, correct? Yeah. And you went to go see now you can't re oh you can't, can't, don't.
+
+[8:21] You don't eat horseshoe crabs. But uh horseshoe crabs, uh, you think that they're kind of interesting when they're on the ground on the beach. They're actually horrifying. You know, that they're they're I mean, I know that they're interesting and fascinating and they're a throwback, a living fossil, so I don't want to get any comments about how I'm uh maligning them. They're horrifying, horrifying like little creatures.
+
+[8:41] So uh what'd you go see? We we went to the hotel where they were having a mating, a meeting event. Yeah. For these guys. And uh we were supposed to be in a boat, but they made us put on waiters.
+
+[8:53] I told you that was gonna happen. I know. But it wasn't covered, it was just a couple, a couple, like every couple feet. We said it was a crappy weekend, so it kind of worked out. The moon wasn't out, or there was pouring, they were yeah.
+
+[9:05] Yeah, so Stas did not, you have to do it again. I know. Oh yeah. Yeah, so here's what happened. So uh in the span of my young life, between eight years old and uh ten years old, I witnessed some of the most horrifying biblical proportion natural events in uh kind of the history of uh New Jersey and kind of the little eastern seaboard thing there, right?
+
+[9:27] So we like we didn't have that many hurt in 77 we got hit by uh my my name David. It was pretty bad, not bad by you know Sandy standards, but you know, I was like, okay, I was little, so it seemed like a big deal. Then uh uh when I was eight years old, we went to Cape I went to Cape Cod to a thing uh to a camp and witnessed one of these things by mistake, and it was I had to wade ashore and and the entire ground in the bay was was just coated with these monstrous, monstrous, monstrous, monstrous, monstrous horseshoe crabs. And you couldn't avoid them, and as an eight-year-old, you know, not being versed in horseshoe crabs, you're like, how much? Right.
+
+[10:06] And uh furthermore, I learned a couple of years later that that the horseshoe crab blood, uh which is copper-based and not uh not uh iron-based in terms of its oxygen carry ability, was incredibly valuable at the time uh in research, and so I thought I was gonna make a business of going back. I thought I was gonna become a millionaire, like destroying all these dreaded horseshoe crabs and milking their blood out of them for profit. It didn't happen. I don't know, it didn't happen. And then, like right after that, the cicadas, or right before that, it can my brother guys made me, the cicadas came out in Bergen County, New Jersey, and coated the ground and made a deafening, awful triffid-like din of horrible cicada, like it's just in crunching of stepping on cicada, the worst thing ever for a guy that hates bugs.
+
+[10:51] And it's supposedly happening now, but now is not it's not biblical. Is anyone called in and be like, oh my god, the cicadas? No, right? Have you heard it? Have you seen people running and screaming covered by cicadas?
+
+[11:02] School buses full of horrified children. No. And it's not like it was two cycles ago, 34 years ago when I witnessed it. And then the 1981 gypsy moth plague that hit the uh east coast and deforested a whole bunch of stuff. So, you know, what I'm looking for is a bunch of uh kind of biblically bad natural signs to come on.
+
+[11:20] I I don't really want that to happen. Anyway, so you you didn't get uh you didn't get that, huh, Stas? No, it was unfortunate. Yeah, well, you know, maybe maybe this stuff is best experienced when you're a kid. Yeah.
+
+[11:30] You think? Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Now all we got is you can't walk in the woods because of Lyme disease.
+
+[11:35] It's not as visual, you know what I mean? Yeah. Yeah. Oh, in old Lyme, by the way, uh, last week after the after the thing. The heart of Lyme disease, and apparently Lyme disease is still going strong there.
+
+[11:44] Like hardcore. I was hoping kind of to get it so I could get it in the official place. I got my Lyme disease in Brantford. No, man, I got my Lyme disease in Lyme. Bang!
+
+[11:54] Uh I'm just kidding, you don't want to get Lyme disease, it's horrible, it can cause uh permanent central nervous system problems if not treated properly. Yada yada. This do not take this as a making fun of the disease. It's horrible. Okay.
+
+[12:04] Lucas writes in all about ice cream. Hey, cooking issues, radio team. Big fan of the show, especially Dave's tirades against ever changing and contradictory health fads. Here's the question. I'm a big fan of Fiore da Latte ice cream.
+
+[12:15] Milk, cream, sugar, and nothing more. You like that style, Stas? Yeah. Yeah? Yeah.
+
+[12:20] Yeah. Where do you where do you where do you have it mostly? Not here. Well, when you go to Italy because you're an America hater, like, where do you normally get it? Oh, the small towns.
+
+[12:29] Small small towns, small towns Italy. Which I had when I was a kid and could never forget. Every time I see it at a restaurant or ice cream shop, I order it. The thing is the texture is always somewhat disappointing. Correct you are.
+
+[12:43] Correct you are. Wait, actually, this is not from is this one from Lucas? This is not from Lucas. This is from Jose. Man.
+
+[12:50] Lucas, your question's coming later on. Jose, I apologize. This is your question. Where are we? Okay, every time I see it at a restaurant or ice cream shop, I order it.
+
+[12:58] The thing is the texture is always somewhat disappointing. Either they pump it up with excessive uh quantity of hydrocolloids, making it pasty or gummy, or it is slightly granular, probably globules of fat clumping up and making butter, or ice crystals, frankly. You know, the the issue here is um yeah, is that uh the texture is a big problem with this style of ice. We'll get into it. Uh I've tried to make it at home multiple times.
+
+[13:20] I have a uh de longi with a built-in freezer, but I keep getting the slightly granular result, which is not surprising, since after refrigeration, the cream fat rises to the top. By the way, that's a right there, it's a classic sign, it's under frozen. The problem with uh the problem with the home ice cream freezers that have the uh built-in refrigeration units is that they just simply aren't very powerful. Like if you look at uh Carpajani colalite used to make a version that has a similar capacity to your deLongi, but the machine is a good three times bigger. And the reason is because they have a like a serious compressor built into it.
+
+[13:55] And the small compressors, like if the if it doesn't ice over like instantly as soon as you turn it on, it means that it just doesn't have the are you allowed to say cojones? Is that yeah, yeah, cojones? It doesn't have the cojones uh to freeze it down fast enough. And so if you look at the ratings on the Delonghi, people are talking 25, 35 minute batch times for uh a load of ice cream. And in the ice cream, you really want a batch time.
+
+[14:18] I mean, look, commercial people, they're doing batch times of seven, eight minutes on ice cream, longer on cerveys, but like seven, eight minutes on ice creams. Uh, and the reason is is a faster freezing uh means smaller crystal sizes. So you're a little bit hampered because you're dealing with uh larger crystal sizes to begin with, uh, because you're long freeze times. Then, secondly, if you turn it off too soon before it freezes uh, you know, a little more completely than what you have it now, you have a big liquid phase, and that liquid phase is going to cause some of these problems and also exacerbate your crystals because the rest of the stuff, as you put it in your freezer to harden, right, will quiescently freeze into much larger granules. So, under fro like so under frozen stuff tastes fine, kind of straight out of the machine because you just pound it and it's kind of like soft serve, and you're not noticing the crystals as much.
+
+[15:04] But on hardening, those under frozen ice creams are going to it's going to accentuate that crystal problem. Now, you have a third problem in that you're dealing with uh you're dealing with an ice cream that doesn't have any inherent added emulsifiers from egg yolks, right? Now, what you call uh what you call uh Fiore de Latte ice cream, which by the way is not made out of uh Fior del Latte uh uh cow's milk mozzarella, also a delicious product, right? Different product. Just means flour of the milk, right, Italian speaker?
+
+[15:34] Check this out. Stas Oh God, you just told this story grew up knowing Spanish. Why? Because she's half Mexican and grew up in LA, right? So it makes sense that she would speak Spanish.
+
+[15:47] If I was half Mexican and grew up in LA, I would speak Spanish. My kids speak Spanish because they grew up in New York. Me, I'm an idiot. I don't speak Spanish. Here's what she says.
+
+[15:55] I learned Italian in college and forgot the Spanish. The hell's that all day? I didn't learn it in college. I learned it from a boyfriend. Even worse.
+
+[15:59] I was trying to make it less embarrassing for you. My God. Wow. Yeah. Anyway.
+
+[16:08] Okay. So before I get into this, so what you're calling uh Fior de Latte ice cream is what we in the States call Philadelphia style. Philly style with no egg yolks, no nothing. It's just milk, uh, typically milk, cream, sugar, uh, vanilla with no stabilizers. Now, the classic examples of this stuff in the U.S.
+
+[16:27] used to be Briars. So Briars is a Philadelphia, Pennsylvania style ice cream, and they used to tout the fact that they were made with uh only those ingredients. And they had a very, very fast freeze time. Uh and so the results were good straight out of the box if you lived close to Philadelphia. If you tried to buy Briars and you live far away from Philadelphia or wherever their packing plants were, or if you made the mistake of buying that half gallon of Briar's ice cream and then not consuming the entire half gallon the instant it was open, it turned to crap.
+
+[16:57] And that's and the reason is is because there's no stabilizers or emulsifiers in it to prevent crystal growth in your freezer where it freezes and thawed freezer. So they got around the first problem, initial graininess, by um just having a very, very fast freeze time in commercial uh continuous freezers, but they couldn't get around the secondary problem of it turning to crap in your crappy home. I'm not saying your home freezer is crappy, but your crappy home freezer, because it because it is. Yeah, yeah. Uh they couldn't get around that problem without uh emulsifiers.
+
+[17:26] So what did they do? Uh very, very quietly, uh, I think like some sometime in the last decade, they started uh doping briars with uh stabilizers, like carrageenan and things like that. Carragean's a good one because you can use extremely small quantities of it. Okay, now to get back to your point. Uh usually on Philadelphia style uh ice creams or in Fior latte they're fairly high fat and that high fat is to get around the fact that you are now I don't know a lot about Fiordalate but I do know a lot about Philly because I used to make Philly style ice cream all the time uh you know my my family doesn't come from there now but I have a lot of them that come from outside the Philly area York and Pennsylvania that's why I love pretzels so much anyway uh the one of the tricks is it has a higher fat content than you would get out of a standard custard ice cream so you typically you know in instead of like from for my ice cream I typically use one to one milk to cream uh but for custard based ice cream and you know the gelato heads are going to use probably even less uh cream than that they're gonna use more milk but more egg yolks and more sugar for a gelato style and don't let anyone tell you that in gelato they don't dope that stuff with uh don't dope that stuff with stabilizer and by the way I'm gonna go out on another limb and get my get my head chopped off by people I like American ice cream every uh bit as much as I like Italian gelato.
+
+[18:43] In fact because I grew up with it I have a soft spot for a properly done American ice cream that can't be taken by anyone else's ice cream in gelato and I've eaten it in small towns in Italy in large towns in Italy in tourist traps in Italy and in the places like you might as well have their gelato in Italy. Right? And usually what it is is heavily loaded with stabilizers super doped with flavors right like that's why it has those intense punchy colors because they have so much it's just so much of muchness and it's good, but I wouldn't say that I would always want to have that over like a good old-fashioned scoop of and and and I like I like the quote unquote French but American style ice creams, and which means custard based, and I also like uh love a good Philly style ice cream. Okay. Now, so in a Philly-style ice cream, you're gonna go higher on the cream.
+
+[19:29] So you're gonna probably go two to one cream to milk in that range. Once you get in that range, you're running into a couple of big problems. One, uh, if you over churn that sucker, it'll get kind of very buttery tasting, and you'll and you'll notice that, which is why, by the way, the ice cream machine I recommend for use at home is standard old Rock Salt ice ice cream makers. They make an unbeatable style, they're a pain in the ass, but pain in the butt. But they make an unbelievable uh ice cream.
+
+[20:01] You know, just just saying. But uh with even with those, you have to be careful in very, very high cream rate uh recipes about over-turning. If you over-churn your ice cream, it has a very characteristic buttery flavor that's different uh uh from uh graininess caused by ice crystals, and you'll definitely get a kind of butter note uh on it, and I think sometimes the overturned stuff has a little bit of a chalkiness to it, but I don't know. I just made that up off the top of my head. It sounds right.
+
+[20:29] Yeah, yeah, it sounds right. Could be wrong, but sounds right. Uh okay, so that said, let's move to uh ways to fix this problem. So typically, if you're gonna add stabilizers, you want to add the smallest amount of stabilizer possible. Uh or if you're into a natural head, you might want to go not natural, because all the stuff's natural.
+
+[20:48] I hate that, I hate this so much. I why don't I even say that? The stuff's natural. What I mean is if you want to go into something that doesn't freak people out, is what I meant. Uh, you know, go into the carrageenans, although that kind of was caragina freak out?
+
+[21:01] I I don't think no, carrageans don's not freak out. No freak out, no, stuff, no. Okay, so uh the the good news about carrageen in it is it has a synergistic effect with milk, so you can use absurdly small amounts of it to get the effects you want. Uh right? So typically in ice cream, they'll have a two-part system.
+
+[21:17] They'll have uh a gelling system and a thickening system, one to prevent crystal formation and the other one to prevent the whey from separating from the uh whey. It's called way off wave from separating and you know preventing other problems. So typically you'll have a two-part system like a carrageenin, maybe locust bean gum or a carrageenan guar. And you can add very small amounts of that stuff and not make it gummy and do a really good job stabilizing. Or you could buy commercial stabilizer bases, uh uh, you know, things and add them.
+
+[21:44] And by and large, the you can get them that are all natural. You don't have to get the ones, and when I say all natural, I mean just like seaweed powders. You don't have to go to ones that have uh lots of like weird emulsifiers in them, things like that. Another thing you can do, I know this is going against what you're doing. The great thing about uh this kind of ice cream that I used to like is that I didn't cook it at all ever.
+
+[22:02] It was all cold. It had a real really, really fresh taste. A lot of people heat their Philly style ice cream so that they can get the sugar in, but I just waited a lot longer for the sugar to dissolve and never heated it. So it had a real fresh flavor. So that's that's I think what you're shooting at.
+
+[22:15] So I want to go for things that don't necessarily uh need uh uh a lot of heating. What you might want to do is take uh a portion of it, right? So so of the things that can't be heated that are good stabilizers, guar. Guar. It doesn't need to be heated.
+
+[22:29] You have to get the flavor free guar though. Uh another thing you might want to look at is um uh gel an. Now, gel an you do need to heat to a boil, but what you could do is just heat a small portion of the milk with the gel an to the boil, set it as the gel, and then blend it into a fluid gel, and that makes a very good flavor release, super creamy ice cream, right? Uh super creamy. Uh it's on a cooking issues blog.
+
+[22:52] Another thing you can look at just good old-fashioned gelatin. Unless you are uh uh vegetarian, uh gelatin makes a very good uh you know uh uh addition to ice creams to to decrease the amount of crystallization you get, and you can warm a portion of the milk up to hot with the jet with the gelatin and then temper the rest of your milk slash cream back into it and still have a relatively fresh taste. If you want to go Sam Mason style and all you want is the uncooked flavor, but you don't mind the uh uh adding things that aren't milk, he uses barely pasteurized egg yolks, and they're not cooked into a custard, and that's also interesting. It's not the same thing as you're looking at, but it's also interesting. For a last thing, on a milk-based only, you might want to look at, and there's a small subset.
+
+[23:33] You ever been to Sicily Styles? No. Me neither. Eddie ever been to Sisley? They make an ice cream over there, me neither.
+
+[23:38] They make an ice cream over there that uh where they thicken it with starch. It's a it's cornstarch-thickened ice cream. And I haven't had it, but there's a bunch of people on the internet who love it, and that stuff is so stabilized. It has relatively good flavor. Oh, by the way, back on gelatin.
+
+[23:52] The reason gelatin is good is because gelatin has a very good, good flavor release because it it melts. First of all, it's not free sauce stable, so it breaks up after it's frozen and thaws out, it goes away in the mouth anyway, has very little flavor impact. Gelatin is like flavor release par excellence, right? Gelan, which I said before, which is microbe derived, also, by the way, I'm talking uh low acyl gelatin, which is the hard one that you break up to fluid gels, also very good flavor release. Starch in low levels has fairly good flavor release, but it does mask, you know what I mean?
+
+[24:20] It does mass things up. But if you're dealing with straight look, some people like it. I've done some starch-based ice creams that I hated, but they were very high starch-based ice creams when I was trying to make snappy ice creams. Uh I mean, I like potato-based ice creams. I've done you know, many, many versions of potato ice cream that have like a snap, but I haven't done starch, but a lot of people swear by it.
+
+[24:37] Mark Bittman swears by it, uh, or swore by it in his uh minimalist article he wrote a number of years ago. But the interesting thing is is that they're so stabilized that you can make them with quiescent freezing and they still don't get big ice crystals, right? Which means that your machine, if it takes a long time to make ice cream, might benefit from that sort of ice cream base because it's going to turn out smooth anyway because the starch matrix is preventing large crystals from forming. So uh might want to give that uh give that a trial. Uh, there's a recipe for it on ice cream nation.com.
+
+[25:08] You go check it out. What do you think, Stuzz? Good. Yeah, you want to take a commercial break? Sure.
+
+[25:11] Nice timing. Oh, yeah. This is Chris Young, co-author of Modernist Cuisine. Together with photographer Ryan Matthew Smith and Chef Grant Krilly, we've created something exciting and new at ChefSteps.com. Each day in our kitchen at Seattle's Pike Place Market, we're working on new recipes, as well as updating classic ones that we love.
+
+[26:13] And we're always looking for new techniques that make the impossible possible. At ChefSteps.com, we publish it all online with detailed step-by-step demonstrations, as well as explanations of the science that answers the why behind the how in the kitchen. And through our forum, you can engage with our team as well as a friendly community of curious cooks from around the world. If you're interested in becoming a better cook, if you want more from the creative team behind modernist cuisine, and if, like us, you're a fan of Dave Arnold and cooking issues, then we think there's a lot you'll like. And the best part, ChefSteps.com is entirely free to learn.
+
+[26:52] Free to learn, that's crazy. That's crazy. Were you talking about an ice cream machine maker before? Is that what you call them? Yes, I was talking to an ice cream machine.
+
+[27:00] And so why don't we just do all let's do all the ice cream in one in one chunk? All right. So uh by the way, uh Chris assumes if you're listening to this that you want to learn. Nobody listens to this to learn. I'm just kidding, I'm just messing.
+
+[27:11] Love Chris. Uh were we gonna schedule to see him sometime? Or do we know he sent him a torch? Yeah. Yeah, we'll see how that goes.
+
+[27:18] Okay. Uh how do you pronounce what do you guys think? I A I N. Ian, huh? Ian?
+
+[27:26] Let's go with that. Ian? Okay. Ian in uh Herefordshire, UK writes in about batch freezers, ice cream freezers. Uh hey Dave and Nastasha, do you have any experience uh with ice cream batch freezers?
+
+[27:37] So by the way, folks, uh batch freezer for ice cream, it what that means is what it says, it does it in uh per batch. So you make a batch, you load it in, and uh you churn the ice cream for a specific amount of time and you get the ice cream out. So liquid nitrogen in a KitchenAid freezer, that's batch freezing. It's not a batch freezer, but that's batch freezing. Uh using the hand-turned ice cream machines that with the rocks and the ice salt, batch freezing.
+
+[28:03] Uh the opposite of batch freezing is continuous freezers. Continuous freezers, constant amount of product is pumped in all the time, and it's frozen very, very short, short periods of time. So continuous freezers are how the all the big folks do it, you know, commercially, uh, and produces can produce with if you use good ingredients and you change, you know, the amount of uh air that's in ice cream is called the overrun. And when you're using a continuous freezer, you adjust the overrun independently of the in a batch freezer, the dashers, the spinning things are what uh does the aeration and provides what's called the the overrun, how much air is in it. And so 100% 100% overrun means that there is for every uh for every milliliter of ice cream base, there is a milliliter of air.
+
+[28:47] That's 100% overrun. It's done based on how much ice cream base you started with. Uh and you know, anything over a hundred is absurdly, you know, absurdly light, and anything, you know, the the the more premium ice creams, the funny thing about ice cream, I don't know why I'm talking about this. The funny thing about ice cream, ice cream is sold volumetrically, right? It's sold by the pint by the quart.
+
+[29:07] Uh and yet the cost to produce the ice cream is based upon the weight of ingredients that goes in and the quality of those ingredients. So, anyone that knows anything about ice cream, if you go to like the corner truck, the ice cream truck, and they give you the soft serve. A lot of people associate soft serve with being inexpensive or having a lot of air in it, and that's really a function of temperature and and mixture, ingredient mixture, not a function of overrun. So if you go to Carvel, which when I was a kid was like the awesome soft serve, but it's East Coast only thing. They don't have Carvel on the West Coast, right?
+
+[29:38] Yeah. So if you go to Carvel, which is like Northeast, like you know, soft serve ice cream, those suckers are dense. Their ice cream cone weighs quite a bit, right? Uh but if you go to, I'm not calling you out, Mr. Softy, but some of the people have bastardized your miser.
+
+[29:51] It's a New York City ice cream truck company. But uh you they're in those soft serve machines, there's an orifice, and the orifice pumps the uh mix into the uh chamber uh freezing chamber, and the uh the size of the orifice determines how much air is pumped into it at the time when it goes. So some disreputable uh ice cream truck uh uh people will put an orifice in there that generates like 120% overrun, so you're buying more air than ice cream, and you can those cones, they're man, that cone looks big, and then you pick it up and it's like a balloon floating out of your hand, it's so light. Anyway, whatever. Why did I get into that?
+
+[30:26] Anyway, so a continuous freezer uh is usually only done by larger scale people. I don't consider soft serve machines which do continuously add product. I don't really consider them to be continuous freezers because that they don't work on the same principle as a continuous freezer. There's only one continuous freezer that's available, i.e., not a batch freezer that I know of that's available uh to uh small run people, and it used to be made by Ross, R-O-S-S, uh, which was bought by I don't know how you pronounce it, because it's got the umlaut, but it's not pronounced stirting, which is how you pronounce it if you're German stiltening. It's uh stolting, I think is how they pronounce it.
+
+[31:02] They bought Ross freezers, but uh that's a frozen custard machine, and it in essence is a continuous freezer. That's it, okay. Back to batch freezers and back to Ian's question. Uh do you have any experience with ice cream batch freezers? Yes.
+
+[31:13] Uh that's a he, right? Ian. Yeah. Uh I'm about to start up a small ice cream company selling quality ices made from local fruits and other ingredients from a bike with a freezer attached. I forgot that I I didn't really even re how you gonna how are you gonna power that sucker?
+
+[31:28] How you how are you gonna get power to that? Pedal power. On the ice cream machine? Well, you're riding around town, put a little generator on the back wheel, good to go. Huh.
+
+[31:36] All right. Okay. I was putting local fruits and other ingredients from a bike with a freezer attached. No, I think what he's gonna do, I think he means not a batch freezer. I think he means a dipping freezer.
+
+[31:44] I don't think he means that there's gonna be the actual equipment. Right. Uh yeah, okay, I got you. Tell me if I'm wrong here, but that'll be awesome if you actually had the machine on a bike. First of all, your legs must be jacked.
+
+[31:57] What's the name of that uh Scottish bike dude with the giant chain rings who had that movie made about him? You know anyone who I'm talking about? Uh anyway, this guy in Scotland, uh I think he's Scotland, amazing biker. He was Danny McCaskill. Is that the one who won like the championship very late in life and switched a style of biking he did?
+
+[32:12] Dun biker guy. No, no, no, no. This is a guy he has a movie about him. He like won a championship much later in life, and he's known for having incredibly huge chain rings on his track bikes, so that he he's like his anyway, whatever. Chain ring is the thing that you're David Millar?
+
+[32:27] Man, I can't remember his name. Nah, nah. A lot of Scottish bikers out there. Well, you know, they're they're uh they're a tough people. Okay.
+
+[32:34] Uh and I'm looking for a robust machine that can produce a reasonable output of ice cream in one hour. I'm looking at about nine liters per hour. I saw the Emery Thompson C B 200. Uh, and the other side, the larger size one they have is the uh C B three fifty. And it looks perfect, but unfortunately is not available in the UK until next year.
+
+[32:53] Do you know any others around the same size and price? Uh the other option I was thinking about was a Paco Jet, but I'm concerned that it might not be robust enough. Uh they look great for restaurants that might want to do one portion at a time, but I would need to uh uh Pacotize, which by the way, Ian is a word I detest. I would just say spin, because Paco I don't want to let those guys coin their own word. They're already charging you an arm and leg for the freaking machine and they're Swiss.
+
+[33:17] Everyone knows how I feel about them. Stas likes the Swiss. I do. Yeah, so that half of us love the Swiss. I have no I actually have nothing against the real Swiss in the real life.
+
+[33:24] It's just I like to make fun of them, right? You know, uh watches and chocolate are great, you know. Okay. Uh but the uh uh uh my point is is that uh don't don't let them have that word. Just say spin.
+
+[33:33] That's what we say spin. Uh can uh oh okay. But I would need to spin the whole tub and do about eight or nine tubs in an hour. Can the Paco Jet handle that? Uh my budget is between three and four thousand great British pounds.
+
+[33:45] I would appreciate it if you could answer my question on the 21st or 28th of May, as I need to make my purchase very soon. P.S. loving the show, just discovered a couple months ago and catching up on the old episodes. Well, here we are on the 28th to answer your question. I called uh the president, Mr.
+
+[33:59] Thompson of uh Emery Thompson and asked him, uh and he's like, I forget whether you said third or fourth generation ice cream machine manufacturers, and I watched his YouTube video on the uh CB uh 200. And unfortunately for you, Ian, uh that machine is kind of in a size slash price category of its own. I haven't seen anything else that's kind of that low. So they retail in the US for about fifty uh five thousand like retail for five thousand three hundred and change. Um that means I'm assuming you can get it for a little bit less if you, you know, if you wheel and deal.
+
+[34:34] But I what I asked him when I called him, I was like, well, can uh you know, can this person just fly over from the UK, you know, using you know your awesome great British money and making us look like idiots here in the US with our current state of our monopoly money, and uh purchase one from you that you outfit for the UK and take back. And unfortunately, Mr. Thompson said, no, the problem is that US 220, uh US 220 is a different wiring schema from UK 220, because I guess you're using single phase 220 over there, and that they need to get an entirely different condenser unit for it. Uh it's made special. They can't just, you know, kind of you know, re-jigger or hack one of their units here for you, although he seemed to feel for your problem.
+
+[35:18] And also laughed when I said, Is there anything else in that price? He's like, No, because I think that's going to be a category killer when it comes out. Your next best bet is that the 350, his version of the 350 is available. That's a six-quart, I think, or eight-quart unit. Uh, and the other ones, I don't have any experience with their machines, but I do have a lot of experience with the Carpegani uh LB 100s.
+
+[35:39] The problem with the LB100s or Lab 100s, depending on which vintage you get, is that now you're talking a $10,000 machine, US. I don't know what they cost in in the UK. They're great machines. They do have some known problems, like if you get one of the older ones with the clear plastic front, they break, they always break, and then you need to fix them. Uh, the other option in the US, I don't know if they sell them in the UK, is Taylor.
+
+[36:02] Uh Taylor machines are sl are cheaper than the LB100s, but I've having used them, I was never a huge fan of the Taylor versus the LB 100s. If you can have a good used market, they do make a smaller batch machine. Carpegani makes a very small batch machine, like I think maybe two quarts, even smaller than the one you were looking at, that's a vertical batch freezer and sits on the countertop. That sucker, I've never used one, but supposedly has a very, very high quality. Uh, but there's not that much in that size range that you were talking about of just a couple of quartz that performs on a professional level.
+
+[36:36] So uh sorry about that. Now on the Paco Jet, I the here's a problem with the Paco Jet, right? Your question is, can I get away with using a Paco Jet? Uh and the answer is yes. Here's the bad news.
+
+[36:48] You cannot get away with using one Paco jet because what will happen? It's not that you need two to run at any one time. Sucker is going to break. Let me let me just be very clear about your Paco Jet. Your Paco Jet will break.
+
+[37:01] And now they will fix it, right? But at least in the US, they don't do the following awesome thing. Oh, your Paco Jet's broken and it costs an obscene amount of money and you can't buy parts from a normal person, so you have to send it to me to fix it. Oh, here's a loaner that you can use while your Paco Jet is broken because we know it's gonna break. In the US, that doesn't happen.
+
+[37:22] So they just say, guess what? Eat it, Jerko. And so you have to not have your Paco Jet for a long time. Or have to have a friend that has a Paco Jet. So if you're gonna do this, you can do it, but you have to run two Paco Jets at once.
+
+[37:34] Also, uh, so like Pure Food and Wine, Pure Food and Wine is that what it's called? Summer Mel and Gaius' place. She she has an ice cream shop that runs exclusively off of Paco Jet, and she has two, maybe three, and she's been running for years that way, and it works, but she always has one when the other one goes down. Here's the other thing. Paco Jet loves to charge you a lot of money for the stainless steel bay-marie that you freeze the ice.
+
+[37:56] So Paco Jet, for those who don't know what I'm talking about, people always say it's like a blender. It's not like a blender, it's like the world's greatest shaved ice machine. It slowly feeds a blade into uh into the top of the uh you freeze your base solid like a rock, and then it feeds the blade in slowly spinning and advancing at such a slow rate that the crystals that are shaved off are the same crystal size that you would get using a commercial ice cream machine. They're fantastic. Uh they're loud, but they're fantastic.
+
+[38:22] You definitely can get the throughput, you're gonna be running it all the time, but you need two. What uh what a couple people have done with Paco Jets, including Mills used to do it at Aquavit and Pure Food and uh Wine does it, is uh they freeze their base in quart containers, which are almost free. Although I've been told, when when I say I've been told, when I ask people in other countries, hey, I need some quart containers, they look at me like I'm an idiot. I don't think a lot of other people use quart containers, so find whatever the UK equivalent of a quart container is, or buy some from the good old US of A, and freeze your base in the quart containers. Quart containers are a little bit tapered, so you can pop the stuff out of the cork, and you have to get the levels right.
+
+[38:56] You pop the base out of the uh quart container, and then you jam it into your Paco Jet container and spin like that. The problem is if it's crooked, right? If it's crooked, then when your blade hits it, it'll hit one side of the I uh of the base only, and you can shatter your Paco Jet blades. Won't kill the Paco Jet, but you'll shatter the blades. Blades are like $150.
+
+[39:16] However, in the long run, you are gonna save money by doing quart containers because you need a lot of them to do the kind of thing you're doing, and just buy yourself an extra blade. Do not attempt to run an ice cream business with the uh Neemox or Ninox, whatever it is, uh Frixair unit uh that was made sold as a competitive Paco Jet. It will not, it works fine for the tiny little cups that it that it does, but it will not work for what you want. What do you think, S good? Good job.
+
+[39:44] Did I do good coach? Okay. Uh all right. Should we take one more break and come back or should we power through? Power?
+
+[39:51] Yeah, power. Power. Okay. Uh got a question in this one, actually is from Lucas, right? If I can find it.
+
+[39:59] Uh where is it? Where is it? Where is it? Oh my goodness. I'll say in the meantime, if you want this episode named after you, you can still become a member.
+
+[40:10] A few minutes left. Yeah, is that true? That's true. It's still May. All right.
+
+[40:13] Okay. Uh well, I'll take a different question while I'm looking for Lucas's question. Uh John Stewart, not John Stewart from the Daily Show, a different John Stewart, which is his sign offline now, says, hello to the hammer, Jack, Joe, and Dave. My question is not very high-tech, but is food related. Uh, we host an outdoor family movie night, and I provide popcorn.
+
+[40:32] I've been making a bunch of batches in a cast-iron Dutch oven on the stovetop, which takes a lot of time I'd rather spend elsewhere. This past weekend I had the horror of actually running out of popcorn. Oh my oh my god. So clearly I need to step things up. It's taking too much time.
+
+[40:49] So I looked at popcorn machines, which turn out to be expensive. You are correct. So the question is if you wanted to make a large amount of popcorn, how would you do it? Or should I be looking at bar restaurant auctions for a used popcorn machine? Thanks, and keep up the good work, a different John Stewart.
+
+[41:04] Okay. So yeah, you're a little bit okay. So here's what I'm assuming. One, you detest air popped popcorn because it doesn't taste good. Is that right?
+
+[41:13] Anyone else with me on this? AirPod popcorn styles. Do you like airpod popcorn? No. Eddie, do you like airpod?
+
+[41:18] I'm not a big popcorn fan in general. In general? Too much effort, not enough reward. Yeah. It's all in your teeth.
+
+[41:22] You're 20 minutes later, you're still digging it out. Well, you know, a lot of that has to do, I think, with like the popcorn varieties that they're that they're making. I think they make ones that like so you get your mushroom and you got your butterfly. So your butterfly ones, your typical movie popcorn ones, and I think they have like a bigger surface area for capturing things. You're gonna like coat it with butter flavor.
+
+[41:38] But your mushroom types are better for ones that are going to be uh further manipulated, like cracker jack style or things like that, which is why you get it. Anyways, uh and certain uh varieties are gonna have more and less uh uh of the skin that's left on them, they're gonna get stuck in your teeth because that's unpreasent, uh unpleasant rather, and of course, better quality popcorns. You know what they call popcorn kernels that haven't popped? No. Widows.
+
+[41:58] Uh oh, that's sad. So now you're never gonna look at the bottom of the video, oh poor widows. No. So uh, anyways, yes, the manufacturer that makes the real ones is Creters. And Creters makes popcorn machines all the way from the minuscule to the gigundous continuous popcorn makers that can do like a ton an hour and more.
+
+[42:14] They're awesome. Uh amazing, but they are expensive. You're looking at probably for a small one, the kind that's like on the cart, right? Like a thousand bucks. Here's the other problem.
+
+[42:31] I think they're about a thousand bucks. The other problem is is that they take up a lot of space. Now, maybe you have a lot of space, in which case I would definitely just troll auctions for one that looks kind of beat because they're kind of bulletproof. I mean, they work for a long time, right? But uh, you know, they they are going to uh they they're gonna require a lot of cleaning if you get a crappy one at an auction, but that is the way to go.
+
+[42:53] Uh my mom actually bought me so the way I used to make the make it was uh with uh what's called a whirly pop. And it's it's still a pain, a huge pain in the butt. So whirly pop is the aluminum pan with the two flap doodle lids on top and the hand crank that you crank. So it makes fantastic popcorn a lot easier than your uh than your Dutch oven technique with the shaking and the shaking plus the shaking of the Dutch oven. Uh the Whirly Pop, the main disadvantage of the Whirly Pop is you still have to sit there and turn it while it while it's doing it.
+
+[43:24] Now, I also use the Whirly Pop for uh roasting coffee because I never got one of the newer generations of home coffee roasters. Uh and the Whirly Pop I like the Whirly Pop because it's you know it's less of an air pop, uh an air roasted coffee for like Sivits Roaster style coffee flavor, and more of like a probot style or like drum roast coffee flavor. So I like it. Uh and it like I say, it also makes fantastic popcorn. But here's a modification I was gonna do if you're handy.
+
+[43:49] What I was gonna do was uh put a motor, like cut the end of the thing off and bolt uh a small 110 motor, and then with a counterweight on the other side of the pot so it doesn't tilt, and then uh just run the whirly pop off of a motor. Now, you could have that whole sucker done whirly pop plus motor. You could have that whole sucker done for I want to say 50 bucks, 60 bucks, plus your time, right? And that's going to make fantastic popcorn. Plus, you can be proud of the fact that you've hacked, you know, you've done a DYI solution on this.
+
+[44:24] Downside is you're still going to have to listen for uh when the popping stops, or you're gonna scorch your popcorn. Now, the whirly pop does a fairly good job of not scorching as long as you pay attention to it, and then you could just bang out batch after batch, and you could be doing other things while it's popping, right? Uh second alternative that works similar to a whirly pop, but it's a lot cheaper. I think it's also around a hundred bucks. My mom bought me some.
+
+[44:49] I don't even I forgot to look at the thing on the way out. I don't know if it's wearing or what, but who someone makes a home, maybe Jack or you can find it, they make like a little red like home version of a movie popcorn popper that works with with the with a little handle on the side that does the dumping, and it works on the same principle as a movie style popcorn popper in that there's a little basket that holds the corn, you put the oil in, it starts popping as it pops, it pops out of that basket and into a holding container, and you can make batch after batch, and I've used it at kids' birthday parties, and it works fantastically. You still have to listen for the popcorn to stop so that you don't burn the stuff at the bottom. But the good news about this version is is if you don't pay attention and you let it keep going past the time and it actually burns the kernels, it's only burning those poor sorry widows that are left inside of the thing. It's not burning the actual popcorn that's popped out and put into the uh into the basket.
+
+[45:44] Now, it also keeps the popcorn fairly warm because it's inside of the tray. The down other downside of that machine is because it's covered with glass all the way around and it's slightly smaller than the ones that you would use uh in uh in a real movie theater, is that if you don't open the door pretty quick after it's done, it has a tendency to steam the popcorn that's on the inside. Steaming popcorn is a no-no. So what you want to do is drill holes in the in the in the side of that thing to allow the ski steam to escape, but not so much that the popcorn can fly out when it comes out. What do you think, Stuff?
+
+[46:14] Good job. Good. I like that. Hacking equipment here. Yeah, we're hacking.
+
+[46:18] And remember, if you hack it, you're avoiding the warranty and you may kill yourself, and I don't want to hear about it because it's not my fault. Uh maybe it's my fault. What do you think? Okay. Uh this is from Lucas.
+
+[46:29] Lucas says, uh, hey, uh Nastasha, Dave, Jack, and Joe. Uh I went to the new Fulton fish market on Monday with a couple of friends with the intention of sharing the fish. This is such a great place, but no two words about it. It is a wholesale market. Hence, I have a lot of fish.
+
+[46:44] I made some gravel locks with part of the salmon. My first question is simple. How long can I keep it in the fridge? Presumably you're not talking about the salmon itself, you're talking about the graveled locks when you're done, right? Uh I love the market, and it's quite a trip from the village uh at unhuman hours because remember, the market is uh really running uh when you know you should be asleep, uh, unless you're a bartender.
+
+[47:04] Uh but I am willing to make it every once in a while, the trip that is. Any other ideas how to use this market for a small household? Now listen, uh Lucas, uh most people oh, he also says, sorry about the bike ticket. My deepest sympathies for uh fragile and delicate Nastasha for having to keep up with you a lot. Oh brutal.
+
+[47:21] Brutal. Sincerest regards, Lucas. Oh man. Damn. Okay, so here's the thing.
+
+[47:27] If you live in the village, Lucas, you one of your main problems is going to be that you have no space unless you are fantastically wealthy. And if you are fantastically wealthy, then you can visit the market and then buy your fish locally at a retail price. So I'm assuming that you are not fantastically wealthy. Uh so I am therefore assuming that your village apartment is small, which means you also don't have a large freezer. If you had a vacuum machine and a freezer, there are some kinds of fish that do quite well if you put a hard vac on it uh for storage to freeze if you have a good freezer and a good vacuum machine.
+
+[48:02] You don't want to cook it uh in the vacuum bag like that under under a hard vacuum because uh the quality is degraded. But storage and freezing under hard vacuum is is fine. Um, I would say things like this are good for three things parties, parties, and more parties. When you're gonna have a big party, like let's say you have that friend, I don't know how old you are. Let's say you have that friend and they're having the engagement party, right?
+
+[48:27] And you want to blow 'em out, then go pick up a couple of salmon there, do like an awesome, like, you know, I used to that that was my standard thing. I would just poach up a bunch of salmons and like put them out with a bunch of different toppings and stuff. You know, I yeah, I think I did a good job. I think I did, you know, because you know this is what I do for a living. But you know, like that, and then like that's very uh very easy.
+
+[48:47] Or anything like that where you you know you're gonna be serving a lot of people, and it allows you to do a higher ticket item than you would if you were buying retail and to get high quality because you know you're getting it from the source. Problem is, is you never know quite what you're gonna get until you get to the wholesale market. So it's a little bit dicey for doing parties, but that's always what I when I I always use wholesale when I know that I have a wholesale quantity of people I'm gonna be feeding. Uh otherwise, it's all about uh storage or making things that are gonna last a long time. Like if you like Pa Pauline, who uh hopefully I'm gonna get to her question uh uh from last week, you know, she does she catches a uh a boatload of well, not a boatload because she's using a net whatever anyway, a lot of salmon, and she's making jerky and drying it, uh then you know that's another opportunity if you want to go there and you're gonna do products that are gonna take a long time.
+
+[49:33] Let's say you were gonna buy a bunch of row and make your own batarga. Well, do not buy that wholesale. Go to I mean, sorry, uh retail, go get that stuff wholesale. Anytime you're gonna mix something's gonna keep a long time. But I can't think of any other, like I can't think of any other like normal day-to-day stuff.
+
+[49:48] I think I'd rather buy my stuff, especially if you're buying stuff that's sushi grade because it's already been frozen once, you don't want to freeze it again. Uh so anyway, hopefully that's helpful. Now, back on the how to how long you can keep. I mean, fresh salmon actually keeps quite a long time. The problem is you don't know how long it's already been kept before you get it.
+
+[50:07] Uh so on fresh salmon, if you're gonna have a problem keeping it and you're worried about it, then I would vac it down and freeze it right away because uh the earlier you freeze a fresh product in its lifetime, the higher the quality is maintained over time. Because you don't get that quality back. Like if you vac down a piece of salmon, even vacing it if you're gonna keep it refrigeration uh in refrigeration alone, is gonna keep your quality a lot longer than if you just you know keep it in in the fridge. But quality on something like fresh salmon, right, is very, very influenced by how you keep it in the fridge. So you want to keep your fruit your fish like a professional would keep it.
+
+[50:42] And what that means is it like a skin side down resting on a bed of uh shaved ice in something that drains the shaved ice into a container underneath it, and then uh lightly light, like I don't actually cut if you have a place that doesn't have a lot of other smells and you're not worried about it, you can almost not cover it all, put a piece of paper that doesn't touch it, you know, like over the top. Uh but you know, a lot of how fish keeps depends on how much the temperature cycles and how much air is blowing over it. If you have a lot of air blowing over it, the surface dries out too much, and you can get off flavors from other things and you can transfer flavors. But if you have it really tightly wrapped over or things touching the the actual fish, then you can get slimy, nasty parts where the stuff touches. So you don't want anything touching it.
+
+[51:26] Uh you can wrap plastic wrap if you have to over it uh but not touching the fish on a bed of ice and then check the ice when the ice melts, put a fresh bed of ice down. Remember, skin side down and not stacking a bunch of them on top, and your fish will actually keep fairly well that way. But very few people here here's why salmon goes or fish goes so bad so quickly in your fridge is people are like you buy it from a fishmonger, they throw it into a freaking plastic bag like it's like like it's like dirty socks, and then you take it home in this dirty sock bag, and then you throw it in the fridge, and then some idiot comes and throws a bag of grapefruits on top of it, and then it's horrible. Horrible. Anyway, once you make Gravelox out of it, it's actually going to keep a lot longer.
+
+[52:04] I tried to find an actual uh piece of information about how long Gravelox would keep. Gravelox, by the way, is salmon typically salt, uh sugar, salt, and dill uh cured with or without weights. You cure it for a couple of days. Uh that it it should it does prevent some bacteria from growing, but it does not prevent things like listeria from growing, and there's other spoilage bacteria. I've seen people say you get an extra actu extra two, three days out of it from the curing after it's cured.
+
+[52:30] And I've seen people say it lasts a couple of weeks in there. I haven't found any hard data looking to see how long it lasts in the uh in the fridge. But uh from what I can see, the main thing from a pathology standpoint, from a from a pathogen standpoint, rather, it would be listeria, because listeria will continue to grow on it. But if you actually keep it under proper refrigeration, listeria should take a long time to grow. The other problems are going to be more spoilage and and less safety problems.
+
+[52:58] Uh, but I could not find any specific things, and nobody wants to come out and say, you can keep it for two weeks in the fridge, and it won't be a problem, because then if you get sick, you're going to go back to them and say, Man, you said I could keep it for two weeks in the fridge. And a lot depends on the initial bacterial loading of the fridge. If you were uh of the salmon, if you're buying really good salmon, whole fish, the whole fish salmon at wholesale market, filleting it yourself. You could see the gills, you could see the eyes, you you see the skin, the quality of it. You know, you'll probably get a good long time uh out of it, but I like those other fools hesitate to give you an exact amount of time.
+
+[53:33] Uh and speaking of exact amount of time, I have shafted Pauline again on talking about uh uh the bacterial safety of her uh smoked salmon in Alaska. And next time, Pauline, what I promise to address this very first uh on the show. Here we go, ready for next week. Cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org.
+
+[54:06] You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritageradio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today.
+
+[54:29] Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] This is Chris Young, co-author of Modernist Cuisine, and co-founder of Chef Steps.com. We've just launched a free course on spherification that's quick and to the point. It teaches the fundamentals and then reveals the details the best chefs use to create amazing dishes that border on culinary alchemy. Sign up now at ChefSteps.com. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:33] This is Dave Ron, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from Roberta's Pizzeria every Tuesday from roughly 12 to 1245 or 1, depending. On the Heritage Radio Network, joined as usual with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, also Joe and Jack in the engineering booth, and Eddie, who's soon to be like one of the regulars in the engineering booth. And once again we have on the show our good buddy Ariel from UC Davis, RGC Mass Spec Expert. How are you doing, Ariel? Pretty good.
+
+[0:57] Thanks. How are you doing? Good, good. Uh oh, by the way, calling your questions to 7184972128. That's 7184972128.
+
+[1:03] Stas, how are you doing? I'm good, thank you. Yeah? Anything interesting to report? Nope.
+
+[1:07] Really? Nothing? No. I saw you pretty late last night. Yeah, but I mean, uh, other people did not see us.
+
+[1:13] Did we do anything? I can't remember. I don't think we did anything. We went to edible little schoolyard. We went to the edible schoolyard, thank you.
+
+[1:18] Well, it was a thank you for an event that we didn't actually go to, but where we're auctioned off as doing some sort of the cocktail party at someone's house, true? Right. Like 30 people or something. We're gonna do whatever, liquid nitrogen, all sorts of crazy things. Yes.
+
+[1:30] Nice, nice. And uh we're uh I'm going to inspect our puffing gun, the museum's puffing gun today after the program. I'm gonna see if I can okay, so I'm gonna let the cat out of the bag. It's gonna it's gonna tick off uh Peter, our uh museum president or whatever and the heck director, whatever the hell his title is. But look, we're looking to get this puffing gun.
+
+[1:46] Uh we're looking to get this puffing gun ready for end of summer. And so uh what we're gonna do is uh we're probably gonna kickstart this thing to try and get some money in so that we can get this stuff to build it out, right? Which means that in the next couple of weeks I have to make it run, Stas. I have to go there and make it run. And uh report back.
+
+[2:05] And I know that we said on the air before that I was gonna do a Kickstarter for the torch. And we still are for reasons no bad reasons really, no bad reasons. It's because we're also working on another product at the same time that we haven't revealed yet. And we have a little bit of question of which one we want to launch first. So we're holding off for a little while on the Sears all kickstart, but it's not that we it's not that we've missed our deadline.
+
+[2:27] No. It's we're ready actually to do it. It's just a question of strategy in the Booker and Dax team as to what's gonna go up first, right, Stas? Is that pretty much true? All right.
+
+[2:38] So uh let me go right into the uh qu oh by the way how you guys doing over there in the engineering booth. Yeah, I was wondering. Uh we're doing well. Yeah? Nice.
+
+[2:45] All right. My sister works for edible schoolyard. Maybe you saw her. Oh yeah? What's her name?
+
+[2:49] Cecilia? Hmm, do we see her? I don't no. No. We might have.
+
+[2:53] Maybe she's not that important. I don't know. Whoa! We did record Alice Waters um, what is it, two weeks ago? We're doing an evolutionaries recording with her, so her kind of whole life story.
+
+[3:05] Uh I just got finished editing that. So how was that? How was she? Very good, very interesting. Uh you know, she she uh really doesn't want that edible schoolyard idea to be proprietary at all.
+
+[3:15] She wants as many people to take it as can. So anyone out there, if you want to go eat a schoolyard, steal that crap. Because she doesn't care. Exactly. Yeah.
+
+[3:23] Ryan? All right. So uh Pauline from Alaska. I'm finally gonna get to your question because I'm not as bad a person as people uh make me out to be. Uh and maybe Ariel, if you uh how good how uh how good are you on your uh food safety stuff?
+
+[3:35] You still up on that? Marginally? I know a little bit. I mean you had to study that crap when you were doing stuff, right? Uh here and there, maybe.
+
+[3:42] Yeah, a little touch of a little touch of food safety. Tiny bit. Uh yeah, Ariel's kind of like me, I guess. Is it as long as it tastes good, who cares whether you die? We do have a caller if you want to grab that first.
+
+[3:52] All right, I will I will take the caller first, but Pauline, you're up first. All right. Caller, you're on the air. Howdy, Dave. How are you doing?
+
+[4:01] Hi. Uh first. Hey, first of all, thanks for answering my uh uh mocha question a couple weeks back. Have a quick question about juicing and a Vitamix. Vitamix we love, thanks to you, by the way.
+
+[4:15] Oh, nice. Well, I love that the Vitamix good good good blending product. Yes. Well, we've been making smoothies, soups, you know, all bunch of good stuff. And my question is when it comes to doing more of a juice product without having to get a you know uh nut milk bag and squeeze it and all that sort of messiness.
+
+[4:36] What would you recommend for straining? Hmm. So what kind of juices are you looking to do? I don't know. We've done like, you know, shard from the garden with greens and apple and ginger, you know, typical you know, overpriced juices from the juice bar at home.
+
+[4:52] Right, right. I mean that so the problem I mean the main problem if you're doing things like ginger, it's not such a problem because uh there's not I mean there are there's there are things in ginger, but uh you're usually not using enough ginger to have it um completely uh you know, fill your juice with with with uh with a bunch of blended pectin. It's the b it's the blended pectin in things that are gonna make things very, very difficult for you to um for you to strain out. Uh because they just yeah, they increase the they increase the thickness of it to an extent where it just it just doesn't want to strain very very much. Um now what I will say is that if you do get one of the of the I like the word nut milk bag that's my new favorite word nut milk bag but um uh I try not to go to a dirty place with that right right yeah you can try but it's gonna be difficult not to get to that place.
+
+[5:45] Now the the uh if you get a uh any one of these uh straining bags or super bags that let you tie them off such that no product can get out of it one really fast way to get uh liquids out like that uh through straining is to put them into a bag like that tie them off throw them in a salad spinner and just start spitting them out and that little bit of extra centrifugal force in the uh on the bag speeds your drainage by you know by I wouldn't say an order of magnitude but probably like a factor of five something on that range and it's also going to increase your yield. So then what you do is you throw the bag in there you give her you give her a couple spins with the thing you spin and then you pull it out then you you grab the bag and you like massage the contents around to free up the pores and you spin it another couple of times. And it's a technique I don't think I ever put it on the blog but it's a technique I developed to help people when they're doing quick agar clarification because most people when they're doing quick agar clarification they squeeze the uh they squeeze the bag too hard and they extrude agar through the bag and they also have a difficult time getting their yield up and so that was something I developed uh to help with that. Uh second thing you know if you have if you're not gonna consume the juice right away is you might want to go to modernistpantry.com buy a little bit of uh pectinx uh uh ultra spl enzyme and blend that in with the product and that, you know, over if you blend it till it's warm, then you know, it's almost good to go right away. But uh, you know, if you let it wait a little while, it really helps thin out your product and makes it uh a lot easier to just get more product through, for instance, a regular chinois.
+
+[7:14] Um the other thing you can do, uh see what is another thing you could do. I mean the i i if if you're having trouble if if if you're having trouble like a a dual a dual part strainer uh makes things a lot faster. So if you're going through first something coarse to pick up anything that's left over now that there's a lot of coarse stuff after the vita prep, and then going through your finer uh straining, like a for instance a bag or something like that, uh then you're gonna get a much faster drain through on uh on the secondary uh strain through if you've gotten some of the bigger stuff out uh right away because it prevents kind of uh instant clogging. You're still gonna get fines clogging, which is like the small things are gonna clog up all the pores very quickly. But again, just like a spoon that you're scraping along the edge of your strainer on the inside to re-clear the pores as you're going is gonna make it drain faster.
+
+[7:59] And of course the good old fashioned hitting the side of the strainer with your uh with your fist as it's going to kind of pop the stuff off the pores and help it drain faster. Is it is any of this helpful or no? Yeah, so basically, I mean there's not you're basically saying a strainer and a nut milk bag. There's not there's not like a china a really super fine china cap or something like that type of thing. Yeah, I mean so like you know, I th there's two basic ones we use that I call them both kind of chinois or china cap.
+
+[8:28] One is a piece of sheet metal with holes drilled in it, right? That's the coarse one. And the fine one is literally a piece of cloth, like a a piece of uh of a wire cloth. And it's very can be very, very fine wire cloth. And those things are great.
+
+[8:43] So like with those, you put it in and initially you you pour your product in there and you hit it with the you you hold the handle and you hit it with you hit the right by the handle with your with your fist uh and it and it can rattle through or you just take a uh ladle or a spoon and constantly scrape the sides of the cloth to re f uh you know re-free up the pores. Okay. Yeah. And if you they can be pricey, but or another alternative is uh go through an old school Tammy, which is a kind of a wide mouth thing, and then you just take a pastry scraper and scrape back and forth across the Tammy, and you can get very, very fine tamis. You can actually buy them industrially as uh as uh bolting sieves or or as uh uh you know mesh mesh grades.
+
+[9:23] You can pick what mesh grade you get because people use it to sort out particles like in the real life. Uh and you scrape your pastry scraper across it and you can get uh a lot of uh you know, a lot of product through that way, but I would recommend a chinois if you can get it because uh it kind of funnels the liquid down into a much smaller area, easier to catch into a pyrex or uh or a pitcher or whatever. And the the sort of smashing motion is a little easier than the scraping you'd get with uh with a to me. Yeah, I mean, yes, that's true. I like this.
+
+[9:49] The smashing motion I like, but you know, you just you'll get a feel for it. The uh issue when you're smashing it, a lot of chefs I know they like to take the spoon and jam it instead of the smashing. The one issue when you're smashing, you'll get like like a bloop that'll fly up and blot back down into your into your chinois. Just make sure you don't shoot the bloop into the stuff that you've already strained. That's depressing.
+
+[10:07] Right. Right, and I can use the damper as well for that. Got it. Thank you guys. They're really helpful.
+
+[10:12] Hey, no problem, let's know how it works. Okay, cheers. Hi, bye. Um okay, so back to Pauline's question. So for those of you that do not remember, I will read uh uh what she is.
+
+[10:22] Okay. Uh I live, this is Pauline, not me. I do not live in the interior of Alaska. I live here in New York. Okay.
+
+[10:29] Uh I live in the interior of Alaska and make annual pilgrimage to dip net the yearly quota of various salmon species, which sounds awesome. Like it's like a good I meat. Well, and then she goes on to say. This is one of the greatest things about living in Alaska. That and obviously the giant cabbage.
+
+[10:42] Are we ever going to get that giant cabbage, thus? I don't think he's really interested in that. So what happened? Like, so uh I'm sorry, Pauline, I'm gonna digress again. But you're on this dog, we're talking about this right now.
+
+[10:51] But like Steve Hubachek, the world's largest cabbage grower, right, in Alaska. Because for those of you that don't remember, cabbage basically respond uh to number of hours of daylight, and they're gonna keep growing as long as the number of hours of daylight are high enough and it's not freezing, those cabbage are gonna keep growing, right? So they get cabbages that are you know well, well over a hundred pounds. What were they weighing? Do you remember?
+
+[11:12] It was a lot. It was well over a hundred pounds, though, right? And so we were gonna we were gonna you know buy you know, at they have a state fair in uh in Alaska, I forget what town it's in, but uh they have an Alaska State Fair, and they have a giant vegetables competition, but they also have a you know a giant uh like like the the kind of the queen or king, depending on what you look at. Nastasha likes to think of vegetables as men, and I like to think of vegetables as women's. You think of everything as women's that's not true, not you.
+
+[11:40] Boom! Boom! Anyway, so uh the uh so the cabbage is kind of the queen of the uh uh the bell of the ball, let's say. And so because it's like the most famous one, and we wanted to get one of Steve Ubachek's, he's a dentist, by the way, right, Stas? Yeah.
+
+[11:54] We wanted to get one of his prize uh cabbages after the fair and bring it here and then make like the like the world's largest single head uh uh serving of coleslaw with like a chainsaw and a wood chipper. But somehow like when push actually came to shipping, he like Steve was like, man, I don't know. I'm not really that nice. Not that not that that means that someday you and I stars are gonna have to take an airplane to Alaska. Sound a seaplane to Alaska.
+
+[12:21] Oh my god, like my dad used to fly seaplanes. That's rad. Yeah. Uh but uh, you know what the most you know what the most dangerous kind of seaplane is? It's the amphibious ones with the wheels that come out of the pontoons.
+
+[12:31] Because it like all the pilots say, it's not a question of if you're eventually going to land and forget to pull the landing gear up and land with the landing gear down in water, which instantly flips the plane, by the way. Like you land with the landing gear on an amphibian sucker in the water. But more of a question of when is that going to happen? Kind of like crashing a motorcycle. Jesus.
+
+[12:49] Yeah. Anyway. I don't think it kills you, but it's just it's embarrassing in the planes ruined. Okay. Uh so back to uh back to back to Pauline.
+
+[12:56] Okay. Um the fishing is one of the greatest things about living in Alaska. I fillet some, cut some into stakes for near immediate consumption, and leave a few holes for extravagant harvest parties. I would like to go to those extravagant harvest parties. Uh what?
+
+[13:09] As would I? Yeah, nice. Uh and smoke dry the rest. Not like that palette pasty shave stuff they sell in our store in the store. Our smoked salmon should be almost jerky like and full of a smoky, slightly salty, slightly sweet flavor.
+
+[13:22] I love smoked salmon and want to do it better, learn more, etc. Thus, I'd like to hear what you might suggest, including ways you'd like to use this fish candy. And like I I believe I mentioned this even when I didn't answer your question. There is a huge difference between the the stuff that they sell in the store and properly really beautiful, awesome um, you know, Nova style uh smoked uh uh cured uh salmon and and locks. Uh I mean the stuff that you can get in a supermarket is indeed pallid and pasty.
+
+[13:53] But you know, the hand slice stuff is freaking awesome. But it's not what you're it's not what you're looking for. And I don't even know like I like I would think that uh most of the stuff that they make, the really high quality stuff, if it's since it apparently that's not the style that's appreciated by the actual Alaska natives, they're probably getting something that was uh shipped back from uh the lower 48 up to Alaska and then served to them, and that would be an insult. It would be an insult to get for her to get this crappy salmon like cured in the lower 48 in a substandard way, pre-sliced with some sort of preservative vacuum packed and shipped up to her, right? Like it'd be like a smack in the face.
+
+[14:27] Well, is cold smoked or hot smoked more of the paper in Alaskan style. Well, that's interesting. So traditionally, right? Uh traditionally, I think if you were gonna smoke, you'd be smoking in a relatively large area, like a shed or something, with a relatively small fire, which would mean cold smoking. Right?
+
+[14:44] But that's that's kind of that's kind of that's kind of the thing. So let's let's talk about the kind of trials and tribulations of of uh of curing and smoking fish. By the way, uh, you know, that the back in the day when people cured fish because uh, you know, they were gonna die otherwise, there was a because they needed the protein and whatnot. There are various different things have uh occurred and some have stayed around because they're more or less safe. But not all traditional smoking curing techniques can actually are not a guarantee of safety, let's put it that way.
+
+[15:12] So the first um, you know, the the first thing is is uh you're probably not doing uh traditional like certain areas where they cured fish, uh they didn't have a lot of salt lying around because uh it took a lot of energy to produce salt, especially in uh colder climates or climates without a lot of sun where you didn't get a lot of drying effect, or places where there's high humidity, they didn't necessarily have a large supply of salt. So they would kind of do low salt things with just wind drying and um and also uh perhaps smoke. Presumably you don't have that problem, and you're doing what has become the more traditional uh smoking technique. It might have been all along in Alaska for all I know, which is you're gonna salt it for a while, uh, or salt and sugar it for a while to get the salt content up. The that's going to A, that's gonna be good for flavor up to a certain point, at which point it becomes too salty.
+
+[16:02] And especially if you're doing the jerky candy-style stuff, there's probably a good bit of sugar in there, which probably goes similar to gravadlocks cures, which can be anywhere from like uh two to one sugar salt to one to one, depending on how you're how you're looking at it, right? So you cure it to get a certain amount of salt into the meat. You're then gonna hang it wet for a little while to let the salt level equilibrate. It's called equalization, right, so that it actually seeps into the whole thing. That initial salt load is and hopefully do this part under refrigeration so listeria is not growing too much because the salt levels involved aren't necessarily, and in fact, not only aren't necessarily, but shown to not uh prevent the growth of listeria, uh you know, unless you super salt it, but then it's gonna be unpalatable for straight eating.
+
+[16:44] So equilibrate at fridge temperature, and then you're gonna hang them up to dry with uh smoke, right? So that's that's the technique we're talking about. Uh and so uh I went around and and uh looked about it. And and by the way, you know, just look up on online and that with the relative uh actual brine strengths. The problem with most recipes is they just give a brine strength, which isn't really a hundred percent useful because it's gonna depend upon the ratio of brine to fish and the soaking times and all that.
+
+[17:14] Other people actually just put salt on it. Uh the so I'm not gonna try and get into this. I would just I would just go to um any one of the uh any university, any state university, for instance, uh smoking fish at home from the University of Alaska, Fairbanks has like a website on this, and follow one of their recipes for salt levels. Um anyway, so uh the first thing you gotta get rid of in uh salmon is uh parasites, right? So uh like different kinds of uh worms that are growing in them, some of which can uh be zoonotic, i.e.
+
+[17:44] they can jump from salmon and infest you. Awesome, right? Uh I think the one I I read the study on was Diphylo Bothriasis associated with eating raw Pacific salmon. Now, here's the bad news salting doesn't necessarily kill the larva. Uh cold smoking does not necessarily kill the larva.
+
+[18:08] Hot smoking kills the larva, and freezing kills the larva. Now, there are uh some websites uh that have said, for instance, smoking fish at home from the University of Alaska Fairbanks says uh these parasites, when you're talking about any sort of like uh wormy parasite, can be destroyed by freezing the raw product at a temperature of zero degrees Fahrenheit for two weeks or longer before salting and smoking. When freezing the product at a home freezer, it may take several days to reach zero Fahrenheit throughout the entire fish. Now, I thought it was very interesting that they wrote before that you had to freeze it before you salted and smoked it. Uh I read on the USDA where they didn't seem to care whether you froze it before or after.
+
+[18:46] Uh if if you can uh and you feel comfortable doing it, I highly recommend freezing it afterwards, and here's why. The more water that's present in uh in the food, right, when you're going to freeze it, um, the uh more crystal growth you're gonna get and the more texture damage you're gonna get. And I would think it would alter the appearance and you get a higher drip loss, which isn't necessarily a good way to get rid of moisture in this in the fillets uh before they're smoked and dried out. Do you see any reason why you can't freeze it afterwards, Ariel? I don't think so.
+
+[19:20] I mean, unless there's some like unfrozen brine that the uh parasites could live in, but that doesn't sound likely to me. It's interesting, I hadn't thought of that. But the USDA seems to think you can freeze it before or after. Yeah, well they mean that's in it's interesting. I hadn't thought about that because you're increasing the brine concentration.
+
+[19:39] Anytime you have like an ion dissolved right but if you're increasing the brine concentration that much you would think that that would kill that's true. I mean I I don't know. I it would seem to me that you could uh that you could do it. Now then the question is whether you're going to uh s hot smoke it or you're gonna cold smoke it. I would read just for your own edification fish smoking procedures for forced convection smoke houses which is written in uh in uh 2001 by uh Kenneth S.
+
+[20:06] Hilderbrand uh junior seafood processing specialist at Oregon State University. And they go through a lot of the parameters of um smoking. Now is that a book or a paper? Paper online. You can read it online.
+
+[20:17] Uh and I would also go to the FDA uh FDA's fish and fishery products hazards and control guidance uh specifically uh processing parameters needed to control pathogens in cold smoked fish for cold smoked uh situations and all like these are both online uh and you know there's a there's a uh you know there's a lot a lot of a lot of of data so there's three things that you're there's there's three main things that you're that you're looking at uh the thing that people are most worried about uh in um cold smoking I mean some if you're gonna store something okay okay let's go so if you're hot smoking then uh you can be in an anaerobic environment back up back up when you're we we already talked about parasites, right? The smoking, unless you hot smoke to to kill it, is not gonna kill uh the parasites, right? Another problem with um another problem with uh microbo microbes is listerio monocytogenies. Listeria can grow in cold environments, is not killed by cold smoking, is not killed by salting, right? Uh so what you want to do is you either want to have to not worry about listeria, which means if you are actually cold smoking, you'd think that cold smoking would would increase the listeria by a lot, but actually the range of cold smoking isn't fridge temperature, the it's more like room temperature up to 80, 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
+
+[21:43] In that range, you will preferentially grow lactic acid bacteria, and the lactic acid bacteria are um are good competitive inhibitors of listerio monocytogenies. If you heat high enough to hot smoke it, you're killing the listeria, wiping it out. The dangerous part in smoking is if you fluctuate in temperatures that kill and prevent lactic acid bacteria from growing, but don't kill listeria. So in that weird range of like 102, 103, in that kind of like that range, you have a possibility of wiping out your lactic culture, depending on the temperature. I have to go look up the specific numbers, but not wiping out uh listeria.
+
+[22:19] So you want to make sure that your zone is either hot enough to kill listeria or cold enough to not inhibit your lactic acid bacteria. That makes sense. Yeah, that makes perfect sense. Okay. So then the uh other thing you want to worry about is you don't want to culture anaerobic bacteria while you're doing this.
+
+[22:35] In very closely confined uh situations, you are uh producing relatively anaerobic environments. However, in cold smoking, the only way to really do cold smoking is to introduce a lot of air along with the combusting products, and so it's almost always an aerobic process and almost always, therefore, will not be growing uh uh Closturidium, uh any kind of like Closturidium in there, right? So though and this is all that don't take my word for it. Please do not take my word for it. Go read uh the USDA and the FDA's website on it and you know some of the other safety sites out there.
+
+[23:09] But those are the main uh those are the main issues. Now, if you're actually curing down to a jerky situation, then you're probably getting a low enough water activity that it's not really uh it's not going to be uh too much of an issue. And if you are worried about uh food safety on this kind of stuff, a little bit, and they don't add it much commercially, but a little bit of uh pink salt, prague salt, uh nitrites uh on the fish will also uh prevent any sort of uh clostridium thing from from from growing. And if you make sure you dry out the uh the outside not so fast that it's like totally dry and the inside's still wet. Right.
+
+[23:41] So most of us when we smoke are taught to uh produce a pellicle on the outside, which is a dry thing on the outside. However, from a food safety standpoint, you're much better having the outside still be at least tacky when you start hitting hard smoke on it because then the inherent antimicrobial products uh you know properties of the smoke uh can have effects, whereas they can be blunted if you have a full pellicle on the outside. Yeah, that's also in the in the in the literature. Any good ideas, you guys, for you? I I just eat that stuff raw.
+
+[24:10] It's so expensive here, to that what they call salmon jerky and salmon candy, that like I just eat it by itself. I never use it for anything. However, it would be fantastic grated over pasta. Yeah. I mean, obviously.
+
+[24:20] Totally. It'd be delicious grated over pasta. And Nastasha likes almost anything grated over pasta. Right? It's true.
+
+[24:27] Yeah? Although you don't like batarga, right? I do. Yeah? Yeah.
+
+[24:30] Someone I know doesn't like botarki. It's ridiculously expensive. That's the problem with petarga. And sometimes it's over cured and can have that weird flavor. You know what I'm talking about?
+
+[24:38] Yeah. It's hard for you to understand over the air what's the kind of things you have to deal with, sort of like white truffles. It's like so extravagantly expensive. You just shave it on stuff. Yeah, yeah, right, right.
+
+[24:44] And so someone yelled at me, I forget what it was. Was it Chris Young? Maybe. Someone was like, well, just because something's expensive doesn't mean that you can't do all kind of wacky crazy stuff to it. I don't know.
+
+[24:58] For me, it's like it's like the time that someone gave us like a little block of tea that costs four hundred dollars and they didn't tell us that it costs four hundred dollars and we made a drink with it. You know what I mean? Like a bourbon drink. Bourbon drink was delicious, though. Remember that styles?
+
+[25:10] Puar tea? That was some delicious stuff. Yeah, yeah. Well, it was the kind of thing where it's if it's expensive and then all about flavor, you just showcase the flavor. And not only that, it's like if it's really expensive, unless you're rich, right?
+
+[25:23] Yeah, you don't get to have it very often. So it's like any sort of nuance that's in the thing. I mean, your product, maybe your product that you make, like our bourbon drink, maybe it was better than the tea by itself, right? But that's not the point. The point is you can't have this tea very often and you want to absorb all the nuances.
+
+[25:37] Even if something's the best thing in the world, if it's, you know, dripping off of every rafter, then you can eat some of it by itself, enjoy its nuances, and then you can dork with it because it's not prohibitively expensive to get more of it if you've messed up. You know what I'm saying? Yeah. I don't know, it's just my two cents. All right.
+
+[25:52] Uh Brian writes in about sulfites. So a lot on the to food safety analogy stuff today, looks like. We always go in in uh in uh what's it called? In um you know, in whatever. Uh hey, Nastasha, Joe, Dave, and whoever is in the booth right now.
+
+[26:06] I like that one. Sweet. Uh and Ariel, someone in this in the actual studio. I'm trying to dehydrate some apricots. Good call.
+
+[26:13] I like dehydrated apricots. Yeah, your favorite? Your favorite? Blenum. Mine, blend them.
+
+[26:17] Blenhem's are good. Yeah, yours. Do you have any other favorites? Uh not by variety. No, yeah, Blenheim's awesome.
+
+[26:22] Yeah, those are California Blenheims. What do you what are your thoughts on those Australian sugary ones that they dip in the honey and then do no? Not your thing. She's making a not my thing face. I mean I live in the Central Valley, so get some crap on apricots.
+
+[26:36] Alright, alright, fair. Uh that would be the Central Valley of California. Uh Stas, but you have any apricot thoughts? No, I like mangoes. Uh uh, you know what, Stas?
+
+[26:46] This is one of the reasons actually, like people think I'm gonna bust on around. That's one of the reasons I I I like Stas is like just like the straight up non-sequitur. No, no, I like to hydrated mangoes. I mean, but like they can both be good products, right? Yeah.
+
+[26:58] But in other words, you're saying that if you could push a button and wipe out every apricot tree and have dried mango instead, you would do that. I'm with you, Nastasia. Wow. Thanks, very strong, Jack. Yeah, Jack, pulling it.
+
+[27:09] Okay. I'll take like a good dried apricot over a mediocre fresh apricot. Oh, I will take any good dried apricot over mediocre dried apricot. And you know what I hate hard to get good fresh apricots. Yeah, they s they're mostly suck.
+
+[27:21] Once they make it to the store, they suck. And uh here's something I don't like is like, no offense, California, but like the little, or it's actually I think a lot of these are made uh foreign, but the little ones that are done whole, they're good, but they're not like baller, they're not awesome. Like the big flat, split, brightly orange blendums that you get from California high-grade California producers. Like, I would take those over many things in life. What I think of Oh, uh, Brian, we'll get back to your sulfite question in a minute.
+
+[27:49] Caller, you're on the air. Uh, is this me? Yeah, how you doing? Okay, I'm good, I'm good. Uh two things.
+
+[27:55] Um, hey, I called you two or three weeks ago about the pizza seal. Yeah, how'd it work? Beautifully. Nice. I haven't even used it for pizza yet, but like tortillas or shearing steaks, you put that fucker on the grill and get it on high for a few minutes.
+
+[28:12] I mean, it's it it cooks things. And you got you got it from that guy who's associated with modernist cuisine that's up here. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah, that's exactly the guy you sent me to. Nice, nice.
+
+[28:24] So it's I mean it's I give that one a hundred percent stamp of approval. Sweet. Sweet. Hey, my actual question, and it's actually my single biggest cooking problem, is actually about washing dishes. On the West Coast, they have taken quote unquote the detergent out of the detergent for water quality issues.
+
+[28:46] And it doesn't matter. Can it work? Does somebody sell on the internet like a f a five-pound bucket of that that I can add back a tablespoon at a time so my dishwasher will actually do something? Uh Ariel, are you up with uh what's going on with uh West Coast detergents? I did not know that.
+
+[29:01] Huh? It sounds like the kind of thing that California would pass legislation on first, but so it's uh so what what are they getting rid of it? I see I need to research this. It's like they're getting rid of phosphates, right? Yeah, they're getting rid of the phosphorus, yeah.
+
+[29:12] And so they and and I don't have those because I'm here in New York, so they they don't work, they don't work where spit. Well, I mean, you know, if if there's a spec speck on your dish when it goes in the dishwasher, there'll be a speck on your dish when it comes out, except it's baked on nicely now. Oh man. All right, so I'll tell you what I'm gonna do. Stas, write that down, email it to us as part of next week's stuff to research, and I'm gonna research uh anything, because I haven't looked into it yet, anything that there is to know about this uh problem, and maybe even uh I'll try to put in a call to the manufacturer and see whether they can give me some whether they're willing to say that the stuff doesn't work as well.
+
+[29:49] It's like in the old days uh with the model cement, right? Tester, if any of you ever made plastic models. Testers, they had the blue tube cement that was safe, and the red tube cement that contained a bunch of toluene. And we all knew that the toluene worked nine times better. So we never bought the blue tube stuff.
+
+[30:05] And I think testers pretty much agreed, they're like, yeah, the toluene stuff works better. That's why we still make it even though it's not cool. But anyway, so I'll I'll I'll tell you what I'll do. Uh I'll uh I'll look I'll look into it. And if you want to also just shoot us like a uh a tweet to make sure we don't forget, I'll do some research for next time around.
+
+[30:21] Alright, it'll be it'll be an email. I don't I don't tweet to speak of. Alright, very good. Thank you very much. Alright, uh talk to you next week.
+
+[30:29] Or talk about it next week. Alright, cool. Uh so back to Brian and his uh sulfites. Okay. So uh I'm trying to deh uh dehydrate some apricots.
+
+[30:36] I have an awesome do you like apricot or apricot? Apricot. Apricot styles? Apricot. Apricot.
+
+[30:41] I like ape because it sounds like like a monkey. Apricot. Okay. And because you remember in uh Wizard of Oz, who put the ape and apricot? No.
+
+[30:48] That's uh the cowardly lion song. What are they got that I ain't got? Courage. You remember this? Oh my god, it can't.
+
+[30:53] It's been a while. Um, you know, like it's this is the thing, like this generation just below mine or a couple things below mine. Like, look, every Thanksgiving you watch the Wizard of Oz. Doesn't matter. You watch Wizard of Oz every Thanksgiving.
+
+[31:06] And after like 10, 11, 12 times of doing this, you just know the whole movie. You don't need to think about it. Anyway. Uh I have an awesome X-caliber dehydrator. Good call.
+
+[31:15] I like Excalibur, like square format X-calibur. Uh yeah, they actually make a white one. I don't know why you'd get the white one, but yeah, they make a white one. But it's the black plastic one. It's very good.
+
+[31:24] Uh it has the biggest, it's the most even of the small, normal, easy to get ones uh in terms of dehydrating, and it also works in a square format, which is much better for uh for anyone that thinks is straight. Okay. Uh some recipes I have found say that the cut fruit should be dipped in either ascorbic acid, uh an ascorbic acid bath or a sulfite bath in order to prevent browning. Which bath is most effective for preventing browning and for how long should I keep the fruit in? I have uh both ascorbic acid and some potassium metabisulfite purchased from my local homebrew shop.
+
+[31:57] I'm concerned about the health risk of sulfites, especially since my wife has asthma, and it seems like the sulfites can impact asthmatics. Thanks so much, Brian. Okay. Uh yeah, so in order in terms of actually making fresh uh fruits not turn brown, uh the sulfites, including uh bisulfites and metabisulfites, are by far the best, uh just in terms of that. Uh and then uh just below them is uh ascorbic acid, uh right underneath that is uh a blanch, an enzyme killing blanch in uh or steam in steaming them to kill them, uh kill it to wipe out the enzymes.
+
+[32:37] Uh and then well, well, well below that is uh not doing anything. So uh if you go to the uh like the in quotes natural food stores and you get the natural brown, gross-looking uh dried fruits, you will find that not only do they look bad compared to their uh more processed, shall we say, brethren, right? They're these ones are boys' anastasia, happy? Yeah. Uh but uh also they don't taste as good because they've uh they you know the oxidation isn't just a color issue, it's also a taste issue.
+
+[33:16] So, uh, what you're gonna want to do is uh now, by the way, you you don't want to over if you add too much sulfites. If you were to just taste, if you're not uh um what's the word I'm looking for? Sensitive to sulfites, taste that powder, it tastes nasty. I don't like it. A lot of people say they can't detect the sulfites in things.
+
+[33:36] I can taste sulfite and I can taste sulfite bath. Uh the salt, the sulfites, this the sulfur is actually getting consumed by the process of what it's doing, so you're not you're not getting all of the flavor on the fruit when it's done that you're getting if you dip and taste the bath by itself, and so uh, and I've never used it as a dehydration aid. But according to the literature, when they're doing it commercially, they're using extremely powerful solutions of uh of bisulfites, like on the order of two to five percent, which is well higher than uh what you'd be using. The folks at Excalibur recommend uh dissolving uh between one and two teaspoons of bisulfite or a little over two teaspoons of uh regular sodium sulfite, which you don't have, into each quart of water, which looks to me, did some back of the envelope math, is about a half of a percent or in that range. You know what I mean?
+
+[34:28] A half to a little over half, you know, up to three quarters of a percent uh or a little more, and let it soak in that for about five minutes for a slice, they say, or 15 minutes for larger halved fruits. Okay? So that's what they're looking for in in sulfites. You're gonna need uh probably a lot more than that of uh ascorbic acid. Um you're probably gonna have to use um you can just sprinkle ascorbic acid on, but I don't do that, or make a uh and toss it or make a bath.
+
+[34:55] But I would probably do uh a percent uh or two of uh ascorbic acid. And I wouldn't b bother buying the the the fresh fruit stuff like what ball makes, because that's just a mixture of citric acid and ascorbic acid. The citric acid isn't really an antioxidant, it's just lowering the pH, which makes it more difficult for the enzymes to do their dirty work, right? Now, the if you're gonna blanch as opposed to using sulfites, the problem is is that that wipes out the enzymes, but it isn't actually an antioxidant. And so even without the polyphenol oxidase enzymes that are in the fruit, uh eventually over time you'll get uh non-enzymatic browning of the product.
+
+[35:36] So it's not a long, long-term solution. Uh another thing you're gonna want to do with apricots is to push the like when you take the halves, push the halves to break their backs. That's gonna open up more of the fruit of the apricot to speed your dehydrating, and the faster you get it down without case hardening it, the better you're gonna be from a quality standpoint. On sulfites and asthmatics, uh I went to Fadia.com, which is now owned by Sir uh Thermoscientific, uh, and they're the people that make the rapid uh immunoassays for different uh allergens. Uh and so they have a very good website, uh fadia.com, ph a d ia.com.
+
+[36:13] Uh now their their gig, what they make their money off of is protein-based um uh uh, you know, IgE uh antibody tests assays, which are protein reactions. So they don't really do sulfites, but they had something on it. And their website, which is pretty good, says that roughly two little under two percent of the general population has some sort of sensitivity to sulfite at some level. Now the the issue is everyone who's everyone who says that no one has a problem with sulfites, especially in wine, just go like, well, there's natural sulfites in wine. And that's true, it's true, but uh, you know, the the fact of the matter is that um sulfite is not like an all or nothing situation, it is very dose dependent on what kind of reaction you're gonna get.
+
+[36:58] So real 2%, less than two percent of the general population, less than, we don't know what the number is, less than two, is sensitive to some reasonable amount of sulfite in food. Now, uh on the flip side, if you are uh asthmatic, and probably according to the data I've read, if you uh if you have asthma that responds to steroid therapy, right, in the form of steroid inhalers and things like that, uh, four to eight percent of asthmatics in that category are uh sensitive to to sulfite. So you're looking at probably four times greater than the average population, which is a lot, but it doesn't mean that your wife is necessarily um you know allergic to it. Now, it's not one of those things that is uh where it's like, well, people are you know they're just hysterical about it. Uh there's been uh double blind uh placebo studies with sulfites in sealed capsules, so that there was no possibility of tasting the sulfur.
+
+[37:53] But now that's the gold standard for uh allergy testing, and it's how it was proven, Nastasha, that MSG is not something that causes reactions. Uh double blind placebo uh uh capsule-based studies. Uh and so people who reacted positive to that were given uh different levels of sulfites in wines and uh a good bit of blind and a good bit of them had uh very severe asthmatic reactions to it. So um don't fool around with it. You're gonna want to if you think that she might be uh you know, if she doesn't, if she has like you know, wines that are known high in sulfites all the time, and she eats dried fruits and she has no problem, yeah.
+
+[38:34] Yeah, that's what I was thinking. Yeah, she probably she has no problem. If she's had problems in the past, I would go to a doctor and they do what's called a challenge study, where in a controlled environment, in case you go into in case you have a very severe asthma attack, they uh they can fix you right away. But following the rules uh that the X caliber people, you're probably gonna have a lower level of sulfites than you would in a highly doped out commercial thing, anyway. And if she has no problem with that, she probably won't have any problem with yours.
+
+[38:59] Yeah? Yeah, yeah, I would tend to agree. We have do we have a caller? Oh, he was motioning it. Break time.
+
+[39:04] Oh, we're gonna go to commercial break. We'll be back with more cooking issues. This is Chris Young, co-author of Modernist Cuisine and co-founder of Chef Steps.com. We've just launched our free short course on spherification, a modernist technique that can imbue a flavorful liquid with the appearance of being solid, a culinary illusion that's broken when the spheres burst with flavor as they're eaten. Our free course offers helpful step-by-step demonstrations of reverse, frozen reverse, and direct spherification.
+
+[39:45] We also explore the science behind spherification so that you can go beyond our recipes and create your own to surprise and delight your family and friends. And as always at Chef Steps, you get the support of a friendly community of experienced cooks and world-class chefs who will answer your questions. If you're interested in learning modernist cooking techniques, if you want more from the creative team behind modernist cuisine, and if like us, you're a fan of Dave Arnold and cooking issues, then we think you'll find a lot you'll like. Sign up now at Chefsteps.com. And even if you're not a fan of us, you can go there.
+
+[40:22] You might like them anyway. Even if you hate us, you might like them, right? Yeah, yeah. Yeah. Okay.
+
+[40:27] Uh we had uh oh Stas, I might as well get this with you going. You know, uh anyone who's a regular listener of the show knows that uh Nastasha does not enjoy uh the hipsters. Or really I mean, I like Brooklyn fine, but Nastasha also doesn't enjoy the Brooklyn so much, mainly because of the hipsters and the really bad roads. Yes, right? Yeah.
+
+[40:45] But you hate the I also hate the bad roads. I hate the bad roads. I don't hate I don't hate hipsters, but the roads are a joke. I especially don't like having to pay tickets to use them. But uh it's okay.
+
+[40:54] When's your court date? Uh you're supposed to write it on my calendar. I handed you the slip so that we wouldn't forget. Oh. We'll look it up when we get back to the land.
+
+[41:01] Uh next week I might be in jail. Who knows? Uh anyway, so Tony Brudori wrote in uh from the website, uh sending us from the website K uh XKCD, which is like a I love that website. Yeah, so why don't you tell us something about it since this is the first time I've seen it. XKCD, it's uh fantastic minimalist webcomic about uh science and math and things like that.
+
+[41:26] Love too. Yeah, so so uh we we like those things. Did you uh did you look at the comic? Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[41:31] So it's a comic uh with uh so it's a graph of uh time on the on the x-axis, and on the y axis is uh prevalence, right? Or as it's put here, how often I see, dot dot dot. Uh and it starts out, and it time is over the course of years. So this this is a this is a uh a plot over the course of years. And what's interesting is is that uh the first part, the first line in the graph is uh hipsters, how often I see them.
+
+[41:55] And uh it it follows um basically a logistic equation uh for uh growth, where uh it starts out in basically a log phase growth. That's it, you know, it goes into a log phase growth, and then after the log phase growth, uh it kind of plateaus out to a certain kind of uh stable population number with the carrying capacity of hipsters, presumably in in Brooklyn or wherever it is, right? For those of you that don't know what I'm talking about, logistics, well go to Wikipedia that uh uh then a similar, slightly lower, right, below the maximum number of uh hipsters, right? Uh is complaints about hipsters. So what's interesting is the carrying capacity for the complaints about hipsters, it's uh like a like you're you have a like a lag of uh of about a year while you're incubating the beginning of the of the complaints about hipsters, and then they go into their log phase of growth.
+
+[42:47] And they plateau out slightly below the actual number of hipsters. So there are always being more hipsters than there are complainers about hipsters, which is depressing from Nastash's point of view, because it means you can't win. Right, right. Then a slightly smaller and much lower carrying capacity with a much longer lag phase is complaints about the constant use and discussion of the word hipster. Yeah, right.
+
+[43:06] And then and then even it's still in the log phase, so we don't know what the final carrying capacity is, but presumably lower is complaints that every level of meta opinion on hipsters represents the same tedious navel gazing by insecure people, right? And then just starting, but with an extremely extremely high uh thing, plateaued out right away, like after a unit of one, is graphs making it all worse, which includes itself. It's a self-referential. So thank you for that. Thanks.
+
+[43:32] Uh and uh, you know, Randall Monroe draws that comment. Yeah. Yeah, yeah. Is he is he a good fellow? Yeah, no, I've well I've been reading it for like eight years.
+
+[43:41] Oh, big fan. Nice. All right. Now, a couple of quickies. Aaron Morin writes it.
+
+[43:45] Morin or Moran? What do you think? Moran. Moran? Okay.
+
+[43:48] Writes in about the VAC master. Hammering the boys. I like that. Hammering the boys. Hammer Ariel and the boys today.
+
+[43:54] Okay. Uh I'd love to hear Dave follow up on the VAC master VP112 question he got about a month back in regards to uh why why did I why did I uh monster trucks that I don't know. Anyway. By the way, when I do that voice, what that voice is is the monster trucks. Yonker's raceway, no!
+
+[44:09] Uh question he got about uh a month back in regards to this particular model being c uh comparable to the Mini Pack or other uh you know commercial uh vacuum chamber vacuum machine. If you could go a little into detail as to where the VP model doesn't measure up uh even better. In my case, the machine would be used in residential uh applications and would never be used in a commercial setting. Thanks in advance, uh, Aaron um Moran from Edmonton, Alberta. Okay.
+
+[44:34] So again, I have never used it myself, and uh the issue with it is is that it doesn't have uh the same kind of uh very strong vacuum pump, and it also it has a much smaller chamber size than um is in any of the kind of commercial machines that I'm used to. Uh Hervé uh Maliber from the French Culinary Institute, the international what are they called themselves now? International Culinary Center. Culinary center, who uh has taken over my role there as being the tech guy, and he's more legit in Frenchiness. He's like a serious actual Frenchie.
+
+[45:07] Anyway, uh the Vacmaster people sent him a free one at the school to test. You know what we got? Cardopolis, cardopolis. Anyway, so like we got that's that's that's some language for Ninda for nothing. Anyway, so uh goose eggs.
+
+[45:23] So like I've never used one, so I can't make any real comments on it. Ervais seems to like it. My guess is that it won't handle uh he said he did some vacu infusion. Uh my guess is that it won't handle liquids very well. Uh it's gonna be difficult to clean because it's a uh you know uh uh diaphragm pump, so you're gonna have to I think, or maybe it's pissed in.
+
+[45:40] So you're gonna have to run it a long time to get any vapor that's trapped in it out. Um maybe possibly put a desiccant in near it. I don't know, to get rid of the stuff when it's sitting around. But it's just not going to be as fast or as baller or have as big of a thing. At home, Herva seems to think it's gonna work well.
+
+[45:56] I'm hesitant to recommend anything I've never used myself. That's fair. Yeah. Um Tom Fisher writes in about Coon Recon. Uh Dave, Nastasha, Jack, Joe, and now Eddie, although it's not in there, but I'm sure he would have called them out.
+
+[46:08] And if you knew Ariel was here, I'm sure you would have called her out too. Uh I've finally got a Coon Recon pressure cooker. During the first use, I noticed that after the valve began to rise, I was getting a quiet hissing sound with occasional wisps of steam. I like that word wisps of steam. Uh once the unit got up to pressure, the wisps of steam steam stopped, but the top valve continued to make a quiet hissing noise.
+
+[46:29] Twisting the valve cap slightly reduced the sound for a moment, but shortly it returned. Is this normal? Thanks, Tom. Okay. So for those of you uh and uh my my Coon Recon is at the lab.
+
+[46:41] I actually don't have a pressure cooker anymore. My electric one finally died. Yeah, so I have to take my pressure cooker back. Wow, poor me. Was it the the Kitchen Aid one that we uh Queas Nart that I hacked?
+
+[46:49] Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah. I I don't know what I did. It's like but it's like dead. Like it's not like it's just dead.
+
+[46:55] So I have to look at it. I could probably fix it. Whatever. We're not we're not talking about queas right now. Okay.
+
+[47:00] So uh Coon Recon uh has, or the old ones that I have have a like a silver face plate and then a uh a knob that pulls up and down. The knob that pulls up and down is a spring loaded valve that has two red lines on it that indicate the pressure that's in it. It's an actual pressure gauge. And it's hooked up to a uh a spring on the underside of the thing. As the steam pushes up, uh it pushes uh that valve up, and that what is what registers pressure.
+
+[47:27] If you were to lift the uh little kind of kind of plate, the guide plate out, the stainless one that surrounds that. There's also a second button on the Coon Recon that is a little metal piece and rubber that is a secondary safety. That guy is going to continue to hiss until it comes up to pressure, and then it should self-seal, right? Especially if you have a relatively new one. So what I typically do, because mine's old and I haven't replaced the rubber is I sit there and with the back end of an offset spatula, I just whack that thing until I seat it and it just stops hissing altogether.
+
+[48:05] That's the little that's the little button on the right. The actual pressure knob that moves up and down should not leak unless you over pressure it. Once you take it past the second ring and another about three eighths of an inch beyond the second ring or somewhere in that range, it's going to vent violently up through that pressure knot. And that's one of the safety features is that it starts venting steam through that. It should not vent steam through that prior to that happening.
+
+[48:33] If it is, uh it is simple underneath the red part when you have it disassembled, unassemble unscrew it, clean everything. I've done it once, you don't want to put like oil on it to make it smooth because what happens is the oil will tend to polymerize and gum up, and then you know you have other issues with it gumming up. Uh but just make sure that it's screwed down tightly and that all the parts are in order. But no, that should not leak. I mean, maybe make a make a tiny, but you shouldn't get steam.
+
+[49:04] That was a noise. They shouldn't make like a uh, it shouldn't make a lot of hissing. You definitely shouldn't see any steam, and you should be able to stop that button on the side that you is not visible normally when you're doing from hissing. Let me know if you're still having problems because um you know you having problems is interesting to me. Uh especially on a Kun Recon.
+
+[49:24] Uh Nicole Craig writes in about pasta uh from the restaurant Root in in uh in Nola, which I'm assuming means New Orleans, Louisiana. And not, you know, north of north of Louston. I'm kidding. Yeah, yeah. Uh I'm thinking of trying to reconstitute some house-made granola into a sort of pasta or possibly even a cracker.
+
+[49:46] The granola has some currants and raisins in it, not a lot. So I'm thinking of steeping this product in milk and then spreading it onto a sill pat and putting it into a dehydrator. Uh and I can't use a machine to make the pasta because of the oil in the oats. That's probably true, plus the sugar. Like, don't ever.
+
+[50:01] I've put sugared things into pasta. Whoa, whoa. And oily things, oh. No, no. That's a never do again.
+
+[50:11] What was the dough we fed into the pasta thing at the school and it just got sucked into the pasta thing and like wrapped around it like eight times. Oh no. And we couldn't get it out. Oh, I'm sorry. We couldn't get it out.
+
+[50:22] Remember that? We threw it out. Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. Uh yeah, yeah, it was a nightmare. And like you can't put water on the pasta machines to clean them.
+
+[50:31] Yeah, Stas is having memories. Memories. Yeah, yeah. Uh okay. So, yeah, so don't do that.
+
+[50:38] Uh so I'm also thinking of making gnocchi. Any suggestions on a good way to do that? Thanks, uh Nicole Craig. Uh, did you look up the restaurant there? Yeah, it's in New Orleans.
+
+[50:48] I'm gonna go there when I go down there. Oh, yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Uh okay.
+
+[50:53] Here's my thoughts on that. Uh, one, most of the time, if you're gonna make a cracker or something with uh granola, you do it by cooking off the oats dry, then adding the granola-y crap to it. The honey, the sugar, the butter, uh anything like that. And those products are used as the binder to bind the product into uh a granola barish or cracker if you go really thin shape, right? So if you're dealing with uh product that's already been cooked and you want to make a cracker out of it, I think if you well, first of all, if you soak it in milk, you're gonna be taking away a lot of those products that are in it, and you need to add them back because that's all that's binding it, really.
+
+[51:34] I mean, you might get some kind of starch out from the from the oats that help bind it, but I'm not sure. But what you could do, you could probably blend it, uh, blend it, milk it, blend it, spread it thick on a silpat, dehydrate it, the sucker will probably hold together on the basis of what's already in there. Or you could do what uh Anna Ginsberg from Daily Cookie on the Cookie Madness website does, uh, and just add more butter, brown sugar, honey, uh, and syrup to the to the granola, which you can then powder, spread out, and then uh she does that no bake, so she lets it sit in a dehydrator, or you could do it like twil style in a dehydrator and dry the stuff out and make it thin. If you don't want to add extra sugar, you could probably also uh melt yourself uh, you know, some other you know, non s non-hyper sweet product like isomalt or something like that, melt it and tweel it out that way and make something really crunchy. Now, on the gnocchi, I was trying to find anyone that had a recipe for a uh gnocchi that contained pre-cooked um dry starch-based stuff.
+
+[52:38] And we all know that you know, like potatoes are put in, they're cooked in, but but I wasn't able to find anything that used a dry soaked cooked thing on uh on a gnocchi specifically, and I looked actually I'd look for my copy of my old Buggiali books, Giuliano Buggiali, because if anyone had one, he would have a crazy recipe for something like that. But but it's entirely possible, obviously, to soak uh to soak bready things and then add them back to new things. I'm gonna tell you this might work for a sweet style uh uh gnocchi. I I don't know how to do it, but a recipe that I used to make a lot, uh I when I I when my mom my mom had all her cookbooks in the basement back in the day. And I would uh go down and uh read them, including like the uh the was it Woman's Day Cooking Encyclopedia, which I read the hell out of.
+
+[53:24] Right? Read the hell out of that thing. And then uh my mom, like like right at the right when I was finishing high school, and I would come back from college and read recipes, including things to make uh while I was wooing my wife, uh, was uh gourmet's best desserts circa 1987. And on page 328 of that book, uh there's a recipe for steamed cranberry pudding with Grand Marnier sauce. And I used to make that thing all the time because I was obsessed for a little while with steamed puddings, but I wanted to do an American steamed pudding, not some sort of British thing.
+
+[53:53] And plus, I had even less patience then than I do now. So the idea of making like you know, a Christmas pudding and aging it for a year, I was like, the hell with that. Okay, age a pudding for a year. What the hell do I look like? You know, that's like a big chunk of your life when you're you know 19.
+
+[54:05] Uh so anyway, so uh the recipe for that, which I will uh which well I'll tell you so basically with the steamed pudding, the the upshot is is they use dried bread crumbs, they mix it back in with some flour, uh eggs and butter and a little bit of leavener and then steam it together and it holds together its shape. And it's classic to make it with a pre-cooked uh farinaceous product like breadcrumbs. But I'm sure granola would also work. So I'll give you their recipe real quick. Uh three and three quarters cup of cranberries and uh a half cup of blanched almonds, pulse those things to break them up.
+
+[54:38] Add a little more than uh uh one and three quarters cup of sugar, uh cinnamon, uh like three quarters teaspoon cinnamon, quarter teaspoon allspice, quarter teaspoon ground ginger, uh, and then uh mix that stuff all together. Now take your three crus of breadcrumbs, or in your case, pulsed out granola, uh maybe lighten it with a little bit of breadcrumbs, uh, three-quarters of a cup of butter, two thirds a cup of milk, and uh three whisked eggs, uh, and a tablespoon of baking powder, a little bit of salt if you need it, depending on what kind of butter you use. Uh mix those things together, combine the two things, fold them together, put them. Now you have something that would normally be a steamed pudding, but it would seem to me that you could probably poach that stuff out. If you had like a nice flavorful thing, or if you added some methyl cell or something to hold it together, you could probably poach them like a gnocchi dumpling, right?
+
+[55:21] Yeah. If you made it a little more, if you added a little more binder to it, you could probably figure out some way to poach those out, or to like like steam them or something. Yeah, or steam just little. Yeah, steam little pudding things. And then the glaze that they added, which is awesome, which you would just take uh you would take uh cranberries and a little more sugar, cook them down to make a cranberry sauce glaze, which you pour over the top, and then a grand marnier sauce, which is butter and grammarnier, like a like a Bourbon with Gram Marnier, which is ball, it's a ball or dish.
+
+[55:48] If you're actually gonna make the full pudding, you're gonna steam it for a couple of hours in a pudding thing. Make sure you let it cool sufficiently before you unmold it, or it'll just explode uh under its own weight when it comes out. But that's it's a good it's a good product. What? We gotta go.
+
+[56:00] Uh, they're cutting me off. Oh well, next time I'll talk about uh Rachel Dutton, who we met, who's like the microbiologist uh at Harvard, who has some interesting things to say about uh clush uh clostridium uh and cultures and salt rate uh raised bread and reading of cassava and the uh question we got in right before the show that James had about um agar clarified gins. So we'll get to that next week. Cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network dot org.
+
+[56:33] You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage Underscore Radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network dot org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today.
+
+[56:57] Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] This is Chris Young, co-author of Modernist Cuisine, and co-founder of Chef Steps.com. We've just launched a free course on spherification that's quick and to the point. It teaches the fundamentals and then reveals the details the best chefs use to create amazing dishes that border on culinary alchemy. Sign up now at Chefsteps.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn.
+
+[0:27] If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Cooking issues! Cooking issues! Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of cookies.
+
+[1:13] Oh, cooking what? Cooking what? Cooking issues. Coming to you live from a birth pizzeria in the back of Butchwick, Brooklyn! On the Heritage and Host of Cookies.
+
+[1:21] I wish. Yeah. Can we start a new show? It's called Host of Cookies. Actually, that would be Tozy's show, right?
+
+[1:27] That would be Christina Tozie's show. She could be the host of the show. Cookies issues, yeah. Cookies issues? She could she can handle that.
+
+[1:32] Maybe she should just maybe we could get her to guest host one time and just do cookies issues. Right? What do you think, Seth? Sounds good. Yeah?
+
+[1:38] Mm-hmm. Yeah. Save us a week of work. Uh anyway, joined as usual with Nastasha, the Hammer Lopez. How do you do Sass?
+
+[1:45] Good. Yeah? Yes. Anything uh interesting uh happening? Nothing.
+
+[1:50] Really? Not since I saw you eight hours ago. Uh remember, the people who are listening haven't heard from you since last week. Yeah, you know. Thank people.
+
+[1:58] How many years have we done this show, Jack? I think going on like three now, right? Three years. Something like that. Three years.
+
+[2:04] Nastasha still has not figured out that the people who are hearing this don't hang out with us all the time. Weird, right? Well, I haven't done anything interesting since the last time I spoke. Have you? It's kind of sad.
+
+[2:16] Um have I? I don't know. I feel like I have. I don't know. I have to think about what I did last uh last week, and I feel like I have, but I haven't thought about it.
+
+[2:24] What about you, Jack and Joe in the engineering booth? Uh I'm going to Bonaroo with Heritage Radio and Roberta's on Wednesday. Nice. Nice. Tomorrow?
+
+[2:33] We're throwing up a pizza party there. Nice. And well, I did do something interesting actually last Tuesday, right after the radio show, uh, in the evening, Heritage Radio had its first ever all host meeting. Right, Jack? All host meetings.
+
+[2:47] Nice. Sweet. And uh, you know, uh maybe maybe after the uh first uh break, maybe Jack can say some of the changes that are gonna be happening on uh on our fine network over the next over the next year or so, right? Lots of fun stuff. Yeah, you want to do that?
+
+[3:00] Sure. Alright, cool. Uh all right, now uh and Joe, I didn't hear anything from you. You doing all right? Well, I'm covering for Jack while he goes to Bonaro, so so not so much.
+
+[3:10] So you're you're gonna be you're gonna be moping. All right. Last week we had a question about oh, by the way, calling your questions to 7184972128. That's 7184972128. We're gonna be here for the next 45 minutes or so, ready to answer your questions.
+
+[3:23] Now last week we got a question in that I wasn't prepared to answer about phosphates and dishwashing detergents. So, uh for those of you that don't know, uh a couple of years ago, uh a bunch of states, and then I think finally the federal government said, you know what, you're gonna have to reduce the amount of uh phosphates or eliminate phosphates uh in detergents like laundry detergent. Now, the the big one has a it has it's a it's all the same crud, but it it's it's um it's either called uh it's trisodium phosphate, but it's also like you know, sodium tri polyphosphates and sodium, so it's either like uh, you know, TSP, STP, STPP, uh, and uh what they are uh is just awesome detergent awesomeness. So lots of things are like that though, right? So lots of things are amazing at what they do but cause problems.
+
+[4:13] For instance, asbestos, asbestos, freaking amazing insulator, completely dimensionally stable, uh, you know, really fireproof, um, you know, just awesome from a technical standpoint, awesome. Also kills you. You know, so you know you can't you can't have it both ways. You can't have the the awesome uh fire retardant mitts and also live, it turns out. Um but uh so the phosphates, it's not quite as bad as that.
+
+[4:42] It's not that it's gonna kill you. The issue with phosphates, and the reason that they were removed is because um, according to a bunch of research, one of the limiting factors in algal growth in uh in water bodies is uh free phosphorus. Uh and so if you dump a lot of extra phosphorus into uh the groundwater and it seeps its way into you know rivers and lakes and streams and whatnot, you'll get huge algal blooms that'll choke uh choke out the the life in there. And so that's why uh they say to get uh rid of the um phosphates. Now, phosphates were introduced into detergents, uh, I think, according to some of the research I was doing when I was poking around, you know, fairly soon after World War II.
+
+[5:24] And so what are the what do they do? According to Cascade, who is cascade the dishwashing people, who've removed phosphates from their detergent, this is what they say the phosphates do. Phosphates helped with dis uh dishwashing performance by facilitating food removal, removing the calcium that binds to these types of uh these types of food together, and aided in grease removal. They also helped control water hardness and bound suspended soils within the washwater so that they did not redistribute onto the plates. So and so in that little nutshell there, like what tells you is that phosphates, when specifically this kind of phosphate, trisodium phosphate TSP or STP, whatever you want to call it, are freaking amazing because they do a bunch of different things.
+
+[6:02] First of all, they do uh what's called chelate and sequester uh calcium ions and other metal ions. What those things do uh if you don't do that is they redeposit uh on your on your your stuff and make a film. Also, that disgusting film, you know how stuff is that disgusting film you get around a bathtub? Mm-hmm. Yeah, calcium and stuff, whatnot, different deposits, right?
+
+[6:25] They can also calcium can bind with the soap, right, and then make insoluble stuff. And also, uh first of all, like molecules like calcium binding with your soap and your surfactants, your detergents, they prevent uh that that detergent from doing the job on the dirt, right? So they shaft you that way, and I think they can also kind of cause those things to deposit into that awful film scum stuff, right? Trisodium phosphate is uh, first of all, it's basic, it's alkaline, so automatically it helps break up organic uh organic uh soils. Most organic soils, including the stuff in dishwashing, uh most of the time, it it is uh broken down well by alkaline things, basic things they break down proteins and fats and whatnot.
+
+[7:03] So, which is why they're awesome at declogging grease uh in uh in uh what am I thinking about drains, like liquid plumber, right? So they're awesome at that. They also uh they're basic. They also uh chelate and sequester out uh calcium and other ions that that shaft you uh and so they're called what they're there's what's called builders in the trade. And so they do those phosphates that phosphate do a number of different things that it's very hard for one thing to replace it to to fix.
+
+[7:30] So what are they adding to it uh nowadays? They're adding sodium carbonate. So sodium carbonate, uh, which you can make, you know, McGee uses it for pretzels sometimes. You bake the hell out of baking sodium and it turns from bicarbonate to carbonate. They add this, it's extremely uh alkaline, right?
+
+[7:45] So it does some of the stuff that uh that the phosphates did. Problem with it is is that's the stuff, I'm pretty sure from from you know noodling around, that's the stuff with the new detergents that's turning your aluminum pots and pans all uh black and disgusting. So the reason why your pots, your aluminum stuff is getting destroyed in the dishwasher now is because of things like sodium carbonate. The other thing, one of the other things they add is sodium percarbonate. So this is actually what's I looked up what's in cascade now, the phosphate-free.
+
+[8:14] Sodium per carbonate is added, and that is the main uh one of the main ingredients in oxyclean, because it cr uh when you add it to water, it um it degrades and turns into hydrogen peroxide and sodium carbonate. So then that also is turning your your aluminum pots gray and disgusting, but it's got the oxyclean stuff, which is supposed to make up for some of the lack of bleaching and cleaning power when they took out the phosphates. They uh they also add sodium citrate, which you know we use in cooking all the time. Uh oh, by the way, also the phosphates, the same reason we use them uh in uh in cooking, they act as kind of emulsifying salts, which is also good at binding the grease and causing it from redepositing. They also have to add uh sodium silicate, which is actually not sodium silicate, it's a it's a specialized metasilicate that they use uh along with uh modified polyacrylate, which is an anti-redeposition agent.
+
+[9:03] It's the same crap they use in diapers stas to make it in uh absorb all the stuff, but that's uh you know a different form of it. Anyway, so there's a bunch of different things they're adding uh to it to try and get rid of the phosphates, and they haven't totally gotten it right yet. But they are uh apparently working on it. But by all accounts, uh, you know, they they switch because they didn't want to make a bunch of different detergents for all over the country, uh, but they haven't gotten it 100% right yet. But there is there's good news and bad news.
+
+[9:29] If there's a whole group of people who do not believe this stuff hurts the environment, and if you are one of those people, you can go on the uh they also add some enzymes, by the way, to break down proteins before this stuff uh starts if you have a pre-soaker if you use cold water. Okay. Uh you can go on Amazon and order boxes of uh trisodium phosphate TSP. It's gonna run you around eight dollars the pound uh if you order the uh Savo Gran brand uh and if you order that's that's Amazon Prime. There's another brand called uh well DAP, they're famous people, but they make a TSP that you can get.
+
+[10:00] I think you can still buy it at Home Depot uh because it's still used uh in pressure washing the sides of buildings prior to painting. So what you can do is just like add a uh you know, add a teaspoon of that to uh to the your regular detergent, and that should phosphorous up the stuff and bring back some of the old goodness of phosphorus. Of course, you might be shafting the environment. What do you think, Stas? Who cares?
+
+[10:22] Wow. No, that was easy. Yeah, Stas is Stas is gonna go out after this. Uh I I have a meeting, but she's gonna go uh frack. She's gonna go frack some stuff.
+
+[10:32] Hey Dave, you have a caller on the line. Alright, cool. So that's the that's the issue on detergents. Go buy the stuff if you need to. Otherwise, sit tight.
+
+[10:38] They're gonna make the stuff work eventually. Caller, you're on the air. Hi, everybody. Howdy. Uh this is Aaron calling from Oregon.
+
+[10:47] Oh, Oregon. Where in Oregon you have? Yeah. Uh I used to be a dishwasher when I first started out in the industry. I basically had the same well, same problem with all the aluminum pans.
+
+[11:02] We had the big cling on it. Makes a lot of sense now. Yeah. Yeah. Well, and by the way, just to go back for a second, uh, you can also buy industrial industrial dishwashing stuff can still have the phosphates in it, so you so you can get it.
+
+[11:14] But that's uh that's a that's a a good note. And I think even the phosphate ones, they will ruin the aluminum somewhat, but just not as badly as the new ones do. The deal is is that the um the sodium carbonate and things like it, what they do is they eat away the protective oxide surface on the aluminum and then allow it to react with the water more. So that that that's that's what's going on. So wait, but before you go though, where in or where in Oregon are you?
+
+[11:40] Where in Oregon are you? Uh Lake Swego. Uh little South Portland. Yeah. Well, I still have not made I'm I was in Portland recently, but I still have not made it to Corvalis yet, which is my dream to go to Corvalis during berry season.
+
+[11:55] Uh but you got a question for me? I do. It's about ice cream. A friend of mine owns an ice cream shop here in Portland. And we were having a discussion about making a sea salt ice cream, about adding it in and folding in sea salt to get crunch of sea salt.
+
+[12:14] Right. But we run into the problem of osmosis and the sea salt itself melting into the mix and frozen base itself. Yes, I would imagine the idea of either powdering it with multixtrin or emulsifying in some sort of fat. But we haven't had the chance or the money or the time basically to test any of it out. I was wondering if you had any ideas on how something like that might work, if it's possible at all.
+
+[12:46] Well, I mean if uh yes, if you had enough time, I'm sure it's possible. What i any time that salt is contacting a uh a water based uh like a a liquid, you're going to get um you're gonna get salt melting. It's gonna it's just gonna happen, right? So, you know, you're on the right track. You have to protect the salt with something that is insoluble in um in water.
+
+[13:13] So for instance, you could chocolate coat the salt. You know what I mean? Or you could or you know, uh you don't have to use chocolate chocolate, you could use another solid fat like cocoa butter or something like that and coat the salt. So if you were to take like a like a panning attachment, I'm sure you could pan malting crystals with uh cocoa butter and then fold them into your ice cream and as long as there's no route for the water to enter, I mean it won't last forever, but it'll last a lot longer than you have now. I mean otherwise you're gonna have to do something you know, fairly sophisticated, like coat it with another water insoluble product, like for instance cornzane.
+
+[13:50] But the problem with cornzane, cornzane is a a protein that's uh soluble in alcohol but not in water. So you would dissolve the xane in high proof ethanol, toss the salt and it won't dissolve the salt out, and then uh you let the alcohol flash off and you get a coating around the salt. I don't know how completely impermeable the zane is, but it's used as a confectionary coating at times to prevent moisture migration, right? But I don't again I don't know how long it's gonna last. Like the third choice, I mean the third choice would be uh, you know, you you could use uh what's called an alpha tending emulsifier and an oil and you mix them, and then as they as they start drying out, they should form a film around the outside of the salt.
+
+[14:28] But you're gonna need some sort of moisture uh impermeable thing. I mean, the the best I I mean the best thing I can think of is something so chocolate is quite thick. Cocoa butter is fairly thin when it melts, so you might be able to get a constantly churning thing of cocoa butter and get a very thin coating. I'm not sure. You know what I mean?
+
+[14:47] Or like just make it into like blocks of sugar and uh and sorry, salt and uh something like like uh white uh chocolate or cocoa butter, some sort of solid fat, and then to shatter it, grind it into smaller pieces. Some of the pieces will be totally protected and others won't. You'll get some of the crunch from the chocolate pieces anyway, but inside of that you'll get crystalline crunch. I don't know of a way of preserving individual salt crystals so that they're not gonna melt out though. Does any of this make any sense?
+
+[15:15] It makes amazing sense, yes. Alright, cool. Um so listen, what what what you should do is if you try any of this stuff, please tweet us back at uh at cooking issues and let us know how it worked, okay? I will. Cool.
+
+[15:28] Uh I am actually heading down to uh the pear orchards this summer. Oh my god. I hope to see you there. Oh my god, I would love to go this summer. I'm gonna try to make it happen.
+
+[15:39] I was gonna go to uh the um Miami to do mangoes again this year, and it turns out it's been a horrible mango crop in uh Miami. Are the pears looking okay over there in Oregon? They're coming out pretty strong right now. Sweet. You want to do that, Stuzz?
+
+[15:53] You want to go to Corvallis? She's like, she doesn't want to go. I'm gonna go. Maybe I'll get McGee to fly up too. Alright, cool.
+
+[15:59] So uh I'll mention over the air if we're gonna do it. Anyway, thanks for calling in. Let's know how it works. Enjoy the rest of your day, guys. You two.
+
+[16:07] Okay, so we had a question in from James last week about making raspberry and other fruit flavored gins. Hi, Dave, Nastasha, Jack, Joe, et al. Yeah, we don't have the et al. No at all today. No at all today.
+
+[16:18] No at all. No at all. Oh, no at all. It's good. I like that.
+
+[16:21] I enjoy the show and have gotten through the archive, so I'm up to date enough to ask a question. By the way, people, do not feel obliged to listen to everything that we have said uh before you ask uh a question, right? Yeah. Right. Okay.
+
+[16:35] Uh I've recently tried your agar clarified strawberry gin recipe from uh the cooking issues blog with a slight modification uh from changing from strawberries to frozen raspberries, it not being the season for fresh berries, and easier to get frozen raspberries. Turned out delicious. Uh the end product is a bit cloudy due to my over squeezing of the gel, but this settles out nicely on the sitting. Alongside this, I tried classic infusion technique, just putting raspberries into the gin and letting it sit at an ISI raspberry gin infusion. Each technique gives a gin which is similarly clarified after letting the ISI and Agar one sit to sediment out.
+
+[17:09] Well, I foolishly didn't keep the gin to raspberry ratio constant for these tests. I would imagine that I can adjust this ratio to match the color and flavor profile of each technique. Do the new techniques simply provide an improved yield, less berries giving a stronger, better flavor, and more rapid processing? If so, what is a good use for the agar clarification alcohol infusion that gives a clarified product when classic infusions won't? Cheers, James.
+
+[17:31] I think it's exactly uh right. The benefit of um agar clarification techniques is that uh when you do it, you know, you blend the fruit and the uh and the product. And so you get uh you know very fast uh you know mingling of the berry and the the the gin. Uh so the the issue is is your your yield is not going to be as high so you're gonna lose uh product I mean I do it in a centrifuge uh luckily the enzyme I use pectinx ultra spl when I do clarification uh is fairly alcohol insensitive so you can you can blend things directly like that with the enzyme the enzyme breaks down the pectins and boom you spin it out I would recommend even if you're doing regular agar clarification go on modernistpantry uh dot com buy some pectin X ultra SPL to break down the pectins in your slurry before you set it with agar you will increase your yield by 20% at least because it thins it out. Um so and on regular infusions you're just sitting a long time making an AkaVede it can take you know days weeks depending on how strong the infusion is uh you know but again it it it's valid I tend to you know when I'm doing infusions and I want them rapidly it's either because I don't have time or because I feel that the quality of the flavor is going to change as it sits for a long long time.
+
+[18:50] Strawberry gin for instance when I make strawberry gin very fresh strawberry gin tastes different from strawberry gin that's been sitting around for a long time. So there is changes that take place in it uh as it sits and so sometimes those changes are good sometimes they're bad sometimes they're just different. So when I want very fresh flavors I'll do ISI or I'll do uh but if you do ISI on berries you want uh on strawberries anyway, you want to slice them very thin so you get rapid, rapid penetration. Raspberries is not such a such a big deal. Um another thing you can do if you want to uh do uh raspberries with a more traditional technique is do a pre-treat of the raspberries with uh pectin methylesterase which is novoshape and I think Monitus Pantry is carrying that now.
+
+[19:36] Uh that will keep the flesh intact over long maceration periods and then put a lot of the raspberries in and it'll even out and then both the raspberry should be good and the uh and the liquor should be good. Most of the time it's either one's good or the other's good but not both, right? Right. Uh oh call caller you're on the air. Hi Dave uh this is Dave.
+
+[19:59] I actually saw you at uh Roberta's two weeks ago. Oh yeah uh yeah in the I was in New York uh it was awesome. I know Berta's food is great. When a WD50 it was amazing. Nice.
+
+[20:10] So yeah it was awesome. Uh so yeah I got a question about uh induction burners. Um about to uh uh move into or I'm moving a coffee shop from one to the other and the other space is a little smaller. We don't have a space for a gas stove. So I was thinking of getting an induction burner because uh mainly for you know making syrups and we also make a little bit of ice cream there.
+
+[20:35] So uh just wondering uh if there's anything I should be looking out for other than size. Well I mean uh so here here's the thing on on induction burners. Uh I I love them. They're they're great, right? Well you gotta make sure you have the the correct power which I'm assuming you do.
+
+[20:51] Uh you have to figure out how you want your uh stations set up. So the induction burners if you're getting portables or movables right they come as singles, and I I wouldn't bother getting the the little the little home jobby ones, like some people try to use those in industrial settings, but they they kind of crap out on you sometimes, and a lot of times, you know, when you're doing professional stuff, you don't want them to crap out on you. Uh, and the reason they crap out on you is because they don't have sufficient cooling circuits to run the thing hardcore, and so if you try to overdrive them, they they shut down uh in thermal overload, they come back, they don't die permanently, but uh that's kind of an irritating thing to have happen to you uh, you know, when you need to get a bunch of stuff out. So, I mean, and and I think that's the main difference between the relatively inexpensive home ones or the ones that are sold portable for catering that can plug into a regular 110 socket and the much bigger ones. The only of the of the bigger ones, you know, I've really only had experience with the with the cook tech ones, but your main choices are the following.
+
+[21:52] You can either get single induction hobs, they're obviously the most portable and they take the least electricity, but they only take uh one uh one pot at a time. Uh the other thing is you can get duels. Now the choice in duels is this they have front back duels and they have side-side duels, right? So the advantage of a front-back duel is that you can you can get you can get one and then you can get another one and stick it right next to it, and now you have like a four-burner range, and then you can get another one and stick it right next to it, and now you have six burners and they're all controlled from the front, right? Which is it seems to me to be a pretty big advantage.
+
+[22:29] Uh but you know, the guys at Sambar had uh one and they were having some problems with it. I don't know whether it's a problem with that unit in particular, but the concept to me is very appealing because it allows you to make a choice now and not be shafted for later. Although nobody wants to cook front back if you only have two. Do you know what I'm saying? If you only have two, you definitely want to cook side-side.
+
+[22:49] But if you know you're eventually gonna gang up four or six of them, then I'm pretty sure you want to go front back. Um the other thing is is that even you know, five, six, seven years ago when people were buying uh commercial induction units, they always broke, always broke. And the the braking features were uh two two reasons. One, a cook would put a pot down very heavy on the uh glass surface and shatter it. I saw more than five broken that way.
+
+[23:14] And then uh the other problem was is that everyone wanted the holy grail of range over oven. And if you do range over oven, especially with the electronics the way they had them, you know, years ago, uh they always burned out. It was like inevitable. So, you know, but it doesn't sound like you're gonna have that problem because you're not going hot over, uh you're not you're not going hot over hot. So you're not gonna have probably cooling issues.
+
+[23:34] You'd want to make sure that those suckers stay ventilated. So it's gonna be a choice for you of of of what kind of configuration you want. You know what I mean? Right. Right.
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+[23:42] I mean, I I would I wouldn't I would don't pay it too much attention to I mean get like a powerful one, but remember that wattage in an induction unit is not comparable to wattage in an electrical uh you know resistance uh heated uh uh range top. Uh it's completely non-comparable because the the efficiencies are you know vastly different between the two. Uh so you know, a much smaller wattage is gonna give you uh it in an induction unit is gonna give you the same output that you're gonna get in terms of like the actual heat in the pan as uh as the as the you know the regular old coil units. And also you can't make a good conversion between BTUs in a gas range and uh watts into the uh into the induction. You know, I've had, you know, I I've done races even with the crappy induction versus you know a fairly good gas, and the the induction most of the time is gonna win because it's directly heating the pan.
+
+[24:40] You get a further mean you're gonna pay more in electricity, no doubt, uh but it you are gonna have less ventilation requirement and it's gonna take less uh HVAC load to cool your kitchen down, should you cool your kitchen down, which you probably will if you know, probably will somewhat. Uh so you you can you can win on those. The only ones I really have experience with though uh on the commercial side are the Cooktex, and I think they work fine. Uh but you know, I don't have a lot of experience with the with the other brands. Is there like a oh a ballpark of like wattage I should be looking out for?
+
+[25:12] Uh well I'm trying to uh well I mean get as high as you can, right? Uh I mean, you know, they they should be, you know, the ones that run on two twenty, you should be able to get a couple kilowatts into them no problem, right? So the ones that you plug into a regular socket are limited to about fifteen hundred watts. That's about the limit that someone's gonna want to suck out of a wall socket. So a fifteen what's one point five kilowatts.
+
+[25:37] So a one point five kilowatt induction burner, the you know, the the standard kind of crappy home models, they are pr they work fairly well. They're not as good as an industrial, you know, range like a jade or one of those things, but uh they're pretty good. They're pretty damn good. But then so if you go to the next jump up, like a three kilowatt burner, I think they make three. Uh but just but look at it that way.
+
+[26:01] Like the most you're gonna suck out of a regular one ten is about one point five kilowatts. So above that you're looking at gravy. If you uh I I I haven't looked at the specs recently because I haven't bought one, but if they have like a two kilowatt or three kilowatt, you're probably looking at you know, mucho powered into the pan. And I I know they make wok burner units that are like four and five kilowatts, and those suckers are nuts. They cause they c they're nuts.
+
+[26:23] They're insane. Well. Alright, cool. Uh well, let us uh let us know how it works out. If you have any more questions, give us a call back.
+
+[26:33] Okay, great. Thanks, Dave. Thank you. Uh, you guys want to go to the first break? Yes.
+
+[26:38] Coming right back with cooking issues. Cooking issues, and the song is called Fish Is Fish Is Vodka. This is Chris Young, co-author of Modernist Cuisine, and co-founder of Chef Steps.com. We've just launched our free short course on spherification, a modernist technique that can imbue a flavorful liquid with the appearance of being solid. A culinary illusion that's broken when the spheres burst with flavor as they're eaten.
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+[27:45] Our free course offers helpful step by step demonstrations of reverse, frozen reverse, and direct spherification. We also explore the science behind spherification so that you can go beyond our recipes and create your own to surprise and delight your family and friends. And as always at Chef Steps, you get the support of a friendly community of experienced cooks and world-class chefs who will answer your questions. If you're interested in learning modernist cooking techniques, if you want more from the creative team behind modernist cuisine. And if, like us, you're a fan of Dave Arnold and Cooking Issues, then we think you'll find a lot you'll like.
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+[28:25] Sign up now at ChefSteps.com. Well, you didn't. So, yeah, Jack? Yep. Well, I was just I was just excited because I'm also a fan of Dave Arnold and Cooking Issues.
+
+[28:35] I'm glad the guys at Chef Steps are too. You know who else is a fan of Dave Arnold and Cooking Issues? Everybody at Heritage Radio. Yeah. Like you said, we had our big first all staff all host meeting.
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+[28:44] Kind of awesome to get everybody in the same room. Well, a lot of people, a lot of the founding hosts, the early hosts in the same room, same time. Um we just debuted the Summer of Food today, which is a student submission program where people are giving us travel logs and uh recordings and musings from their summer of food, which includes coverage on issues of farming, sustainability, and uh all sorts of things. So that's really fun. We're opening up a whole new post-production division of the network.
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+[29:13] Lots and lots of new stuff, and I would highly, highly recommend every listener of cooking issues go to our website, click on evolutionaries, and there's an episode of Harold McGee where he tells his whole life story, really, in a in a very tightly edited, post-produced way. I think it's very fascinating for all fans of modernist cooking. When's that going up? It's up. It has debuted, so it's there for your listening pleasure archived, the evolutionary series on Heritage Radio Network.
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+[29:39] It's right there on the homepage. And you have a bunch more that are coming out over the summer, yeah? Tons, yeah. Wiley as well. Nice.
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+[29:46] Yeah, we edited his. Who knew he was such a uh competitor, sports guy? He likes he likes the sports. He does. He does.
+
+[29:54] He's damaged like his uh you know, some part of his arm, so he has to get it fixed. I think from like, you know, repetitive not from punching his cooks apparently, but from cooking. I think he damaged his uh I don't think it was in sports. I think it was in cooking he didn't. He just always wanted a sports injury and then you know, had to make it happen through cooking.
+
+[30:10] Full contact cooking? Yeah. Nice. McGee's story is really great too. Everyone should check it out.
+
+[30:14] Indian food. Grew up eating Indian food. Well, you know, McGee McGee, half uh half Indian, also McGee, sports guy, but not like you know, compet he's like a uh a runner, has been for a long time. Man runs all the all the damn time. Did you know that?
+
+[30:28] Did he mention that on the on the on the program? You have to listen and find out. Yeah, I'll tell you something. I hate running. No offense, but like I hate running.
+
+[30:35] Like it's I hate it. Like, you know how Stas, do you like running? No. You know how people like they say they get this endorphin rush from running that that they like it and then they like to keep running? I've never felt that in my life.
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+[30:46] You guys? Anyone? Uh no way. No. Joe?
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+[30:50] No, I used to I used to run track, but it was never fun. No, no, it's just not fun. Running around, not fun. Uh although uh uh Dax of of my kids booking Dax Not the Bar, just got picked for the track team. Nice, nice little mini track.
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+[31:04] Okay. Rolf writes in uh dear Miss Hammer and Nails. So I guess I'm the nail getting hit on the head by I guess all of us are. There's nails, so Jack and Joe also getting hit on the head with the hammer. Uh Mustacha, by the way, just uh just during the commercial break, totally busted me because I was remembered last week I said that like I was gonna go to jail because we couldn't find out when my quartet was for my bicycle ticket?
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+[31:27] I was like, I gave it to you, where the hell is it? And she's like, You didn't give it to me, you took it back, and we had a big argument, and I'll do my wallet. Guess what? It was there in my wallet. Right or wrong.
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+[31:36] Right. So now she's gonna now she's gonna be uh she's gonna be moody all day as a result. All uh I just don't like how angry you get. How angry get what? Do I get angry?
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+[31:44] Jack and Joe, do I get angry? I guess I do. But I don't it's not re it's like, you know, it's not serious anger, right? Cartoon anger, huh? Yeah, cartoon anger.
+
+[31:55] That's me. That's why no one takes me seriously. Okay, Rolf writes in, dear Miss Hammer and Nails. Following on Tom Fisher's questions about his kissing Coon Recon pressure cooker. I can add that mine, circa 2009, has always done the same thing.
+
+[32:09] Bought it while living in France, and the customer service there isn't such that it was worth suffering, uh suffering the follow-up a follow up on it that I'd have to do to get it fixed. So I just got used to it. For what it's worth, it's not the secondary slash higher pressure valve, which is the one on the side, uh, but the pressure indicator valve itself. I've taken it apart, cleaned it. It hissed on first use, so it wasn't food contamination.
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+[32:31] Tried to adjust the tightness of the bolt in the bottom of the pressure indicator. Uh used to be I could quiet temporarily by turning it while it hissed. Uh uh, as though either the hole of the or the valve weren't quite round, but no longer. Hope that's useful in your data collecting. Rolf, it is useful actually.
+
+[32:45] And I've heard uh, you know, mine is circa a long, long time ago, but I heard that Coon Recon was having some uh issues with uh QC. That's quality control. Uh having some issues with uh QC for a while, but that they had it fixed. I mean, I'd like to know how many people have this problem with Coon Recon is because one of my favorite things about it is that it doesn't leak uh I mean it's still gonna leak a lot less than you know some of the other brands uh like uh Fagor that you know leak by design. Um but anyway, yeah, I do want that for uh for my research.
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+[33:17] Okay. Uh Colin Gore. Haven't heard from Colin Gore in a while, huh? True. True.
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+[33:21] Writes in about apples. Palm nerds, he calls us. I guess we got some good salutations to uh today, right? Dear palm nerds, my British girlfriend has been looking for Bramley apples in the United States. They're big tart baking apples that it seems can only reproduce by having a threesome super kinky triploid action.
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+[33:41] Uh so the referring to the uh number of sets of chromosomes. So we are diploid, we have two sets of chromosomes. Uh you know, there's when you have more than that, it's called polyploidy, right? So, you know, more than and so the but the problem is is that uh usually it's an even number in order to in order for the things not to be sterile. So three sets, triploid means that usually if you're triploid, you're you know, three sets of chromosomes, you are uh sterile.
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+[34:07] Anyway, uh, you know, not you person you, the fruit tree, not you, the person. Uh because I don't think that that doesn't work for us. Anyway, okay. Uh I recall Broaddale Farm is a massive fruit repository in the UK, but I think you mentioned uh the US la uh having a living library of apples as well. Uh where is that?
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+[34:27] Uh and uh have you cooked with Bramleys? What makes them so interesting to the Brits? And what other weird fruit sex can you share? Okay. So the issue uh first of all, the um the place is in Geneva, New York.
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+[34:40] It's how uh I don't forget how far it is, maybe like four or five hours from uh New York City, and it's the Geneva uh apple extension, it's an extension of Cornell, but the Apple repository is run by the United States government. It's like Noah's Ark for apples, and and they don't really like a lot of the people there don't really some of the people care about the actual apples, but the theory is is that if some new disease comes in, people don't think about it if you don't think about trees a lot, but a lot of our major trees over the past hundred years have been wiped out by introduced uh pathogens and new tree pathogens. So, you know, el Dutch Elm uh disease wiped out the majority of our elms, which were kind of the preeminent uh street tree. Um we had our chestnuts wiped out by chestnut blight. They were like the one of the primary uh you know trees of the eastern forest.
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+[35:30] You know, they they were like from sheer number standpoint were one of the largest numbers, almost completely wiped out. Uh now only young saplings grow from the dead stumps. Uh we have uh butternut canker killing our butternut trees. Uh there's just like we have we have a fungus that infects uh beech trees, another important you know, U.S. tree.
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+[35:49] So you get a thing called beech snap. We have uh introduced uh things that are killing off our our hemlocks, you know, our great conifers. So there's a we have a long uh well, I should say long, couple hundred year history of having some of our major and important uh tree species getting wiped out by uh introduced pathogens. So what they're worried about is that some pathogens gonna come in and attack all of our commercial cultivars and wipe them out. So what they do is they have thousands of varieties of different apples sitting there, and uh and you know, that way they can figure out which ones are resistant to whatever new pathogen comes in, and then they can create new apples from those.
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+[36:28] That's why they keep them. And they still haven't successfully uh insured the keeping just the uh the clonal the the you can't keep apple seeds because apples don't uh grow true to seed, but they can keep they keep the wood frozen in liquid nitrogen, but um some people say that keeping the the wood like that so that they can make uh new grass of it frozen in liquid nitrogen isn't so good because uh it can cause uh sports, so it can change slightly from the parent tree. So people still say you have to grow all the trees. Anyway, that's why it's there. It's a fantastic place to visit.
+
+[36:58] Okay, now back to Bramleys. So here's the thing. Uh I have not cooked with Bramleys uh because I've never really done um uh I haven't had a kitchen in the UK and they don't really uh make you know doom so much over over there. Uh I mean the Brits, I think they they just they just like them a lot. Um the uh first you know, Bramley comes from the UK and uh was discovered around 1809.
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+[37:20] It's called uh Bramley seedling, and what that means is that it was discovered as a seedling, it wasn't a sport or anything like that because what you used to do is you'd spray apple seeds around, like you know, 20 trees would come up, maybe one of them was good because apples, as I say, don't come true to seed. Okay, so the interesting thing about uh Bramley's triploid thing is that you need two other kinds of apple trees near it to uh have it work right. And here's why. Uh so triploid trees don't produce uh pollen. All right.
+
+[37:54] First of all, apple trees don't like to self-fertilize usually, which means you need at least two different uh apple trees near each other to get a good crop of apples, right? Triploid trees have two two two separate triple fruit things in general, right? Accord according to I don't think it keeps it current anymore, but I'm no one to talk. The fruitblog.blogspot.com. Uh triploid fruits tend to be larger, which is why a lot of people uh like them, but the trees tend to produce fewer flowers, right?
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+[38:19] And they don't typically produce uh pollen. Now, remember the apple trees can't pollinate themselves. So you need normally you need two different kinds of apple trees, right? One one will pollinate the other. You don't really care what the seeds on the inside of the apples are because you're not going to grow from the seed anyway.
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+[38:34] Anytime you're gonna reproduce the apple, you're gonna do it by grafting. Okay. Here's the thing. So you got these two apple trees. Now, uh the Bramleys is just sitting there doing nothing, doing squat.
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+[38:44] So you have to wait for the other tree to pollinate it, right? Now here's the other thing. If you want that tree to also produce apples, you need a third tree out there to give pollen to that tree because the Bramleys is shooting blanks. Right? Okay.
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+[38:59] Uh so that's that. So some other triploid trees out there, apples are Ashmade's kernel, which is my favorite uh kernel word for seed. My favorite all time, uh drink apple, John of Gold's, Mootsu Crispins, and Gravenstein. So there's a lot of triple H stuff out there. Uh now, the the other question is uh what is uh w so what other weird kind of fruit sex is there?
+
+[39:21] Wait, I got a caller? All right, so weird fruit sex after the call. Caller, you're on the air. Hello? Hello?
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+[39:28] Oh, hey, I have a question um about doing chicken. Um so I end up doing a lot of catering and I pretty unhappy with just the way that chicken turns out in large quantities being able to reheat it. Right. Um for catering setup. And I was just wondering if you had kind of any ideas about how could how I I could do something that would be delicious and at the same time, you know, somewhat easy to pull off in the kind of catering situation.
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+[40:02] Sure. How many how like how many people on average are we talking? Uh let's just say like 125. Okay, and what kind of uh you're talking like a main course chicken, so a hot? Yeah, main course hot.
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+[40:13] And what kind of finishing stuff do you usually have with you? Um with with that, um well, I have a circulator, I have and a bunch of other stuff I can bring with me, but generally we just use the grill or sometimes we have uh ovens or like fryers or stuff like that. But preference is the grill. Right. Yeah.
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+[40:32] I mean, so I mean the uh the so the the issue with chicken, right, specifically chicken and specifically main dish hot prep chicken is that um in order to crisp the skin out nicely, you need to cook the chicken for uh a while. I mean like chicken skin has to dry out and render and crisp. That's why other than deep frying, super fast techniques tend to produce a less than awesome uh surface on the exterior of the chicken, right? Uh for and the and the breast meat is just tends to get way overcooked. Right, right.
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+[41:08] Now i if you could now so there I would I would circulate the chicken uh before I would bone it unless you need to serve it on the bone because if you circulate chicken uh with the bone on it you can tend to get a lot of pinking and red around it which doesn't go away and then catering that's like death right I mean that's the I've gone through the circulating the chicken before so many times and I mean I I'm not against deboning it but I mean I prefer the thighs and I would prefer not to debone thigh. You know you know what I mean? Like I mean maybe I could just debone the breast or something. Yeah I mean the the issue is especially on thighs with that little short bone so much red in that bone that the thigh the thighs really turn pink. If you anytime you do a low temp like to me the easiest way to get around the problem of uh of cooking a bunch of stuff off at the last minute and having is is to do low temp.
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+[41:58] But low temp on thigh you're asking for a complete world of hurt if you don't depict it. You know, the other thing you could do is you could if you nitrate them, the whole thing will be pinked and it'll look cured. You know what I mean? And then people don't mind the pink so much. But I people freak out on chickens like for that.
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+[42:15] People just don't want to see uh the red the red chicken. I mean, the advantage of boning, right? Uh the disadvantage obviously is the freaking work, right? Uh the advantage of the boning is you can then use the bone scraps to make stocks and gravies without having to get anything extra. People do like eating the thigh uh the thigh meat boneless.
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+[42:38] I mean, what we used to do when we're doing large-scale chicken for hot prep is uh we would bone out the whole chicken and then roll it like in the skin. We would do the thigh thighs and uh and uh drums on the uh you know, you know, cut open, glued to the skin, and then breast meat in the center, rolled, and then we would poach those off at um, you know, uh in the circulator at like 63, 64. That cooks the breast meat in the middle and almost cooks the other meat all the way through. You can let it ride at like 57, pull it, and then throw it on the grill to crisp off the skin and take that thigh meat up a couple of extra degrees to cook it out. And that everyone always ends up liking that preparation because everyone gets a little bit of white, everyone gets a little bit of dark, and it's boneless, but it is a lot of work beforehand.
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+[43:27] The good news is that it's beforehand, so it's not work on site. If you want if you want to cook the thighs boneless, you're gonna have to go to a much higher temperature or just cook it uh much faster. I haven't done a lot of experiments. My guess is that if you cooked it at 66 and you kept the layer fairly thin or sixty seven that you would be able to uh get rid of some of the pinking as long as you cooked it relatively quickly at those temperatures, uh like in a you know, in a in a combi with it going or or something like that. But yeah, I haven't done a lot I haven't had any success with bone in thighs done low temperature.
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+[44:05] Um what is the is the issue when you do low temperature the red is that coming from I mean when you circulate it the bag is it is the marrow coming out of the bone or is it more of just the time after cooking for a long time it turns pink. I don't know both. It's both. It's both. So what happens is is when you suck a vacuum on a piece of chicken to put it in a bag, you know if you're not using zippies, uh you that vacuum will cause stuff to come out of the bone which it you know and all the vessels around there and that will put a lot of the pink in the meat around the bone and also uh the bone is going to act as an insulator.
+
+[44:40] I mean the same thing that makes it good in doing traditional cooking it insulates the meat so it doesn't overcook right in low temperature cooking because it's slower so it it kind of protects that and then you know the the redness the the how much of the red is denatured is dependent upon the rate of denaturation. So in sl in in cooking that takes longer period of time to heat through uh up to cooking temperatures you're gonna have more red than you would in a situation where those temperatures are achieved quickly. So it's kind of you're doubly shafted by it. Um I mean it can be done but like you're gonna want to either use ziploc bags or very low vacuums and you're gonna want to push the temperatures a little bit higher than you would otherwise want to push them. So you what you could do is you could do your breasts at 63 to 65.
+
+[45:29] I've never done this but then try to do the legs at like 67 to 68 and see whether or not they're still juicy up at those at those temperatures, and maybe those temperatures are high enough to wipe out the pink, even with the bones in. But if you suck a hard vacuum, you're never going to get rid of the pink. Yeah, yeah. I've run into that a couple of times now. Um that's helpful.
+
+[45:52] Yeah. I guess deep boning is probably my best option. It is a pain in the butt, but you do get lots of delicious gravy. Thank you. Alright, good luck.
+
+[46:00] Alright. Bye bye. Uh so back to weird uh weird fruit sex. So uh seedless fruits, by the way, are one of either two situations uh happen, right? Either uh you have a situation back where where you know the uh the tree is actually pollinated, but no seeds form.
+
+[46:18] I call that the shooting blanks method, right? That's called actually uh stenospermocarpi, uh right, and that's how seedless grapes work and things like that. The other one is this style is gonna like this one, parthenocarpi, which which means virgin fruit. Virgin fruit. And that's how things like bananas and certain figs work because they don't need to be pollinated for the fruit to form, which is weird, right?
+
+[46:42] So the like bananas back in the day, before they were like you know, awesome food things, have like lots of seeds in them, and they're they're fundamentally inedible until they found these ones that had parthenocarpi. And there are certain figs that are also uh parthenocarpic, they don't need any sort of pollination. But styles, you know how figs are regular like the old school figs, you know how they're done, right? Here's some weird fruit sex for you. Uh wasps go into there's a male fig tree and a female fig tree, right?
+
+[47:10] They're not on the same tree. And they uh male ones have the they're called capri figs, the male trees, and they have this thing called a sync a synchronia, I think. Sinconians, seconia, anyway. And male uh the wasps, not males, the wasps go into the fig, right? And they lay their eggs in the fig, right?
+
+[47:26] And then uh the wasps are born and they eat their way out of the fig, right? And they fly to a female tree, go into the fig, and try to get they can't get back out again, lay their eggs in, uh no, sorry, they die in there. When they die, they don't lay their eggs, I guess. They know they don't lay their eggs. They die in there, but they pollinate it while they do, and the fig dissolves the wasp on the inside so there's no wasp left.
+
+[47:48] That's kind of bizarre fruit sex, huh? You got another collar? Yes. Collar, you're on the air. More for more fruit sex after the call.
+
+[47:54] Hey, it's uh Brian in San Francisco. How's it going? Going all right, how you doing? Good. So I dehydrated my apricots, and I wanted to let you know that it is side by side with uh the ascorbic acid um on one tray of paper cups, and then I did the um uh potassium metabisulfate um for the other tray, and far and away it the potassium metabisulfite one.
+
+[48:17] Yeah, did was there any off-flavor from the sulfur? I would guess not, right? I did not taste any off-flavor, but in the bath I could definitely smell you know that rotten egg, uh sulfur sulfur smell. Right, and then it should it should volatilize anyway while it's uh dehydrating. But I should also say that the ascorbic acid that the apricots ended up tasting sour.
+
+[48:38] Really? Uh somewhat from from that ascorbic acid that was was was on the surface. Also, I should say that um I did get some browning on on the uh potassium metabisulfate. It's not foolproof. I used half a percent um by weight.
+
+[48:54] And um uh you know, I still got I still got some. So maybe I need to to to increase that. I mean, the one I was read did some reading that um they use a kind of um a smoke box where they smoke some kind of sulfur um uh dioxide, I guess it is, into the into the box um when they do it commercially which is how um uh how they make sure that uh there's no there's no browning at all. Right. Well some so yeah well because it hits everything.
+
+[49:24] Some people burn the sulfur uh some commercial people do use the dip, but they use a much heavier duty dip than than the sulfide people for home uh dehydration recommend. Uh but you know it's the same procedure they use to bleach uh palm fronds, uh you know, uh palm uh things for making Panama hats. They bleach them with uh sulfur, they burn sulfur underneath the uh underneath the palm leaves so that they can uh bleach them out for making uh Panama hats. So yeah, that's a that's an old school that's an old school technique. How is your how is your wife with the sulfur?
+
+[49:57] Any problems? She hasn't tried them yet. Uh but I I think it should be fine because she did she does okay with with most wine with wine. So um it it's just the asthma piece which was in question. Right.
+
+[50:10] Well, you know, have an inhaler nearby. She does she uh she uses an inhaler, yeah. Yeah, have an inhaler nearby. I mean, if she has most wines without a problem, I you know you're not gonna probably get a uh I mean reaction. Yeah.
+
+[50:23] Or at least not one that's uh life threatening. Yeah, uh but it was nice to do the side by side so now I now I have a uh a clearer sense of it. Cool. Tweet uh tweet a picture over at Cooking Issue so I can take a look at it if you if you can't. Yeah, yeah, I I'll I'll I'll try to do that with my with my dumb phone.
+
+[50:38] Uh but I have another question here which is um I I need a foolproof recipe for mayonnaise because I tried the immersion blinder technique that I found on the Sirius Heats website and I tried and it and it and I couldn't save it. And then I I um I tried and McEs. I looked in his uh keys to good cooking, he says add another yolk if it breaks, and I added that and I couldn't, and I and I tried it with a whisk also as well. So I I need some some advice on on um ratios and technique. Right.
+
+[51:09] Well did you hear the did you hear the episode where we uh the one with uh Chris Young on it where like my feeling is is that the main problem is when you're doing the series Eves technique of using the immersion blender without you know without any sort of premixing is the uh is the size of the vessel. So if you did you did you hear that one? So if you're making the I'll go back and listen to that. Yeah, so like the trick is okay, so I I'm I I've been contradicted by a couple of uh listeners who have you know written in and said that that they can make it normally in a large vessel like a quart container, but I was running some side by side tests using uh the immersion blender to make the mayonnaise in the immersion blender cup, which is roughly the same diameter as the bell of the immersion blender, and when you do that, you know, the egg yolk sinks to the bottom, it like s makes an emulsion and then builds very quickly and easily, right? Or and then I tried doing it in a quart container and it failed miserably.
+
+[52:05] Miserably. Miserably. And uh and I could and just like you said, I tried to fix it, miserable. Uh just awful. So when you're making it in large vessels, I mean like when I do it in large vessels, I take a whisk, I break the egg yolk, I hit it, I hit it with mustard vinegar, hit it, and then very, very slowly drizzle in the first bit of oil while I furiously mix with my hands until you see a stable emulsion forming.
+
+[52:31] Then you use a whisk? Yeah, I use a whisk. Yeah, but then but like but not anymore. Now I now you know I can I use for small quantities I do the immersion blender thing. Once you form an emulsion, then you can kind of go ape.
+
+[52:43] You know what I mean? Then it then all of a sudden nothing matters anymore. The hard part about mayonnaise is the very beginning part, getting that initial stable thing going. So my feeling is is that if you're doing the quart container situation, although some people say they do it in a core container it works, but if you're doing it in a core container uh at least with one egg yolk, uh I was unsuccessful because it mixed the egg yolk and the oil together before it had formed any kind of stable emulsion. Yeah, yeah and so then you're just hosed.
+
+[53:09] Now the the other thing is is that uh you know you want to you want to make roughly 80% oil 20% water uh base stuff. That's how it works. And McGee and I used to do uh you know as as part of uh the Curious Cook was his second book which you guys should all go on uh A B E or on Bookfinder or whatever and buy a copy of it. But you know he goes through there the experiment uh that you can actually make you know many quarts of mayonnaise out of one egg yolk. So we used to do that and we would do it with a whisk.
+
+[53:40] We would get one egg yolk we would we would hit it with a whisk and we would start uh making and then we would just make gallons of mayonnaise with the one with the one egg yolk right that but you have to keep adding water to it right because if you get too much oil in the emulsion will break and then you're shafted right so you want to try to stay but the other hand is if you don't add enough oil it's thin. So adding the oil up to around seventy around seventy five seventy to eighty percent, eighty percent right when you get there is when it gets that thick mayonnaise consistency. Anything less and it's going to be thin anything too much more and the mayonnaise is going to break. But you can always add some liquid back in, thin it down, and then build it back with more oil. Okay.
+
+[54:25] Do I need a refrigerate it? Because I don't understand how white Japanese mayonnaise is not ever in the fridge. Well, same with New Orleans mayonnaise. Uh, you know, they they guys in New Orleans keep their mayonnaise out uh all the time. The the issue usually when you're making mayonnaise you add acid to the uh egg yolk portion of it, and over time the very low water activity combined with the acid will kill whatever ails you in the mayonnaise, at least so they say.
+
+[54:50] But the issue the issue is that mayonnaise right out of the gate is not safe. The Japanese guys, coopy, they might uh actually also dope it with something to kill kill anything in it. But my impression from what I've read is that mayonnaise, properly made mayonnaise with an acidifier in it, gets safer over time, not less safe over time. So how long do you think it'll keep? Oh.
+
+[55:28] But I would make it in small quantities anyway, though. You know what I mean? Make it in small quantities anyway. Got it, got it, got it. Okay, I'm I'm gonna I'm gonna try the your I'm gonna try this technique and make sure I get my ratios right.
+
+[55:38] Can I ask you another question? Is there time? Sure. Okay. Um my my I'm I make I make kefir and I make also a bread starter, but the problem with having them out all the time is that I gotta keep feeding them.
+
+[55:53] Um so I put it in the fridge to slow the um slow down the reactions or for for both of them. And I understand they're they're they're separate. But my question is, is there different kind of acid that that is released at that that temperature for the fermentation than it would be at at room temperature? Meaning I I think I read something that there's more more lactic acid at room temp and more um uh some kind of uh a a different kind of acid, maybe uh uh a scorbic or s or something. And so I'm wondering if if that's in gonna that's a consideration.
+
+[56:28] Or I need to bring it to room temp first before when I use it and just kind of store it uh when I'm not using it in the fridge, uh thoughts. Right. Well here's the deal. So uh anytime you change the either what uh something is growing on, what the starter medium is, or any time you change the growing conditions, meaning the temperature at which it's stored, or I guess even really the humidity at which it's stored, you're gonna shift which bacteria and which yeasts are growing properly in that starter, right? So if you look at any sort of uh actual fermentation, it's not one specific thing that is growing over the length of the fermentation.
+
+[57:05] Different organisms take over at different stages depending on what the pH is and depending on what the temperature is, etcetera, etc., depending on how much oxygen is dissolved. So uh the the trick is is if you want a consistent starter, you just have to do everything consistently. So yes, storing it in the fridge will change the culture, right? Uh somewhat, but when you use it, as long as you use it the same way every time and store it the same way every time, eventually you'll achieve some sort of consistency. You hope.
+
+[57:32] Another thing you can do if you want to store it, and it also changes the consistency, is a lot of people store their starters uh very much more stiff than you would ordinarily uh form a starter, and that slows down all the uh rates of reaction. It's another thing people do. They just dope it with more with more salads, more flour. Okay, got it. Alright, thanks so much.
+
+[57:51] Have a good week. You too. Alright, now on our way out, I didn't get to talk about salt risen bread this time or hickory nuts. We'll get that to that next time, I hope. But one last uh fruit sex.
+
+[58:02] My favorite fruit sex of all is vanilla. So vanilla, vanilla, the bean, the orchid, right? Vanilla is from Mexico, and in Mexico it's pollinated uh by a special bee that only grows in Mexico. And when they tried to take vanilla out of the Mexico, they could not get it to reliably produce because it will not pollinate itself. It turns out that vanilla orchids have a chastity belt on them.
+
+[58:26] And vanilla orchid, it's called the rustellum. And the deal is that vanilla orchids don't want to pollinate themselves. They want to prevent self-pollination because they don't like vanilla orchids don't appreciate incest, right? Now, uh, so no one could figure out what the hell was going on, no one could get vanilla to produce. On the island of I guess in French it's raining, but it's reunion in the US language here, right?
+
+[58:48] Which is off the coast of Madagascar, in 1841, a slave named Edmund Albius figured out how to how to well what's what's a polite word to say it, how to sex up the orchid by removing by by taking the orchid, flipping open the chastity belt, and taking it with a little blade of grass and taking his thumb and rubbing the male private parts and the female private parts with his finger, and force ancestrally pot pollinate the vanilla beans. And single-handedly, this slave uh invented the uh vanilla trade the coming out of Madagascar, coming out of reunion, single-handedly. Now, he was a slave, so he got almost no credit at all, right? They they uh outlawed slavery uh soon thereafter in the late 1840s, France did, right? And he just kind of was like left defend for himself, no money, no nothing.
+
+[59:42] And he actually got sent, he stole some jewelry because he needed it. He was sent to ten years in prison. This guy literally was the foundation of this of what was one of the biggest industries over there. They finally let him out, the Glenn of Cremacy, because they're like, Yeah, I guess you did, you know, you did give us all our livelihood. So they let him out, but he died in poverty in 1880.
+
+[1:00:01] So it turns out that uh sexing sexing an orchid doesn't necessarily lead to wealth and fame, cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on heritageradio network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org.
+
+[1:00:39] Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] This is Chris Young, co-author of Modernist Cuisine, and co-founder of ChefSteps.com. We've just launched a free course on spherification that's quick and to the point. It teaches the fundamentals and then reveals the details the best chefs use to create amazing dishes that border on culinary alchemy. Sign up now at Chefsteps.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn.
+
+[0:27] If you like this program, visit HeritageRadio Network.org for thousands more. Cooking issues. Cooking issues! Hello, and welcome to Cooking Issues coming to you live from the back of Robertus Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn, on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from roughly 12 to roughly one. Calling your questions to 718-497-2128.
+
+[1:22] That's 718-497-2128. All your questions. Cooking, tech cooking, non-cooking, questions about Nastasha, maybe. Who knows? All welcome.
+
+[1:33] Uh joined in the studio as usual with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. And Joe is all alone in the booth today. So lonely. Jack just got back from Bonaro, so he's uh taking it easy. I'm sure he has a lot to recover from.
+
+[1:47] Yeah. Yeah. All right. Yeah. We'll hear from it maybe next week.
+
+[1:51] Maybe Jack will call in if he's listening. Yeah? Yeah, right. What are the odds? Uh, okay.
+
+[1:55] Got some questions. Oh, by the way, amazing stuff. Before we get into the questions, the Museum of Food and Drink, Mofed uh did its inaugural explosion of the puffing gun on Sunday. Uh we did a test uh puff because uh our uh graphics team, Labor, uh Ryan and uh Wyeth, amazing fellows, are filming a Kickstarter campaign for us because we are going to kick start the uh this late summer's exhibit of the puffing gun. For those of you that don't know what I'm talking about, uh back in the day, uh starting in the I guess just around the turn of uh the last century, around 1900, uh they uh developed a technique for puffing grains where you seal the grain in a in a sealed kind of gun uh and you uh heat it, and and as you heat it in the sealed container, the pressure increases dramatically, but the gr the liquid can't boil off because it's sealed inside of a container like a pressure cooker.
+
+[2:51] But instead of going up to 15 PSI, like a pressure cooker, it goes up to like 180 PSI, 200 PSI. Then you release the pressure all of a sudden and boom, all of the grain uh instantly puffs as all of the water instantly vaporizes off. And there are various machines that are uh used for this nowadays that are small, but the museum wanted to get one that was actually used, designed by Kellogg, and is still made by the Puritan Manufacturing Corporation in Omaha, Nebraska. So we got one of these uh large machines. It takes, I think 18 pounds of grain at a time, or 18 or 20 pounds of grain.
+
+[3:22] Seven feet long, big machine. Uh, and uh we fired it for the first time on Sunday and didn't really have an idea kind of of how uh kind of much of a poof there was gonna be coming out of it, but uh Nastasha unfortunately had to miss it, but I will just say that uh everyone involved had chunks of rice stuck in uh in their hair. Their rice was sprayed all over Heritage, uh all over the Heritage headquarters, like just everywhere. It was just amazing. I like let me just say, first of all, you should fund the Kickstarter when it comes up.
+
+[3:56] And second of all, no one is going to be disappointed when they come visit the puffing gun in uh outdoor venues in New York City later this fall, uh later this uh summer. It's just gonna it's just a crazy piece of equipment and uh super duper fun. Uh and uh we have a picture actually, follow MoFad, the Museum of Food and Drink. Uh they now have their Twitter up at Mofad uh on Twitter, and you can see a picture of the inaugural puff. The inaugural puff.
+
+[4:22] It's a pretty amazing picture, right, Stuff? It's amazing. I mean, like you can't believe it, like stuff flying everywhere. It's like uh it's like you know, Star Wars, like you know, the Millennium Falcon going into hyperspace. That photo looks kind of like that.
+
+[4:33] Good stuff, good stuff. Okay, questions in. Alvin Schultz writes in. Uh carbonation question. How do you control the bubble size in different cocktails?
+
+[4:42] Topo chico versus champagne. Uh is it a question of PSI? Topo Chico, by the way, is a Mexican mineral water. Uh right? Mm-hmm.
+
+[4:50] I think so. You drink that stuff in LA? No. I was like, hell no. Hell no.
+
+[4:54] Remember, half Mexican, so she's allowed to be racist against her own kind. I guess. I guess. Not really. It's not really cool.
+
+[5:00] Right. Right? All right. So uh anyway, so uh I don't really uh I've had it, uh, but I don't remember the the bubble kind of uh quality of uh Topo Chico. Champagne is known obviously for uh, you know, the finer the champagne, the smaller the bubble size.
+
+[5:14] However, uh it's fairly simple in this respect. The bubble size of any given drink uh is directly related to the pressure of CO2 that you put into it and the temperature at which you serve it. So uh basically how fast CO2 is leaving. So the more pressure you carbonate to, the bigger the bubbles are going to be for a given liquid. The colder you serve it, or the warmer you serve it rather, the larger the bubbles are going to be for a given liquid because CO2 is going to be leaving it faster.
+
+[5:43] Okay. So if you want smaller bubbles, you carbonate to a lower PSI. Downside is it also doesn't taste as carbonated, right? And if you want larger bubbles, just carbonate to a higher PSI. Downside, sometimes you can get over carbonated.
+
+[5:57] Now uh now remember I said for a particular liquid. So uh whatever the alcohol content is is going to increase, uh is going to affect both the bubble size and how carbonated it tastes. The higher the alcohol content for given pressure, the less carbonated it's going to taste and the smaller the uh bubbles are gonna be. Um for also what is in the drink besides alcohol can vastly affect uh the bubble size. So in champagne, uh that's actually done method champagnoise, uh the product sits during a secondary fermentation on its lees, and those uh the yeast products break down over time and create uh uh the the liquid actually becomes uh such that the bubbles are smaller.
+
+[6:37] So the bubble size will be smaller for uh champagne that is aged versus champagne that is unaged. And definitely champagne, so the longer you age it, the the smaller the bubbles are gonna be. Also, they are smaller than if you were to take a base wine that hadn't been refermented and carbonated. So it's what's in the product is gonna determine the bubble size, uh, how cold it is and the pressure. Yeah?
+
+[6:58] Good? Good. All right. Uh Dave Kleinman writes in, uh, back on Father's Day. Happy Father's Day, Dave.
+
+[7:04] Question for the show over here. Uh homemade jalapeno cheddar Doritos. I have Enzorbit M, whey, and uh cheddar powder. And also he wants to know uh the best uh uh breakfast in Williamsburg or Manhattan. I don't eat breakfast out.
+
+[7:18] What about Manhattan? You ever eat breakfast out? Not really, no. No? Really don't like it.
+
+[7:22] No? Joe, you eat breakfast out? No, he's gone. Sorry, I'm here. I generally do not.
+
+[7:29] Yeah? Roberta's is supposed to have a nice brunch, right? What about brunch, Stas? You got a good brunch? No.
+
+[7:34] I eat a home for the first meal. You know what? Let me tell you what. If you're in uh Manhattan and uh it's not a sit-down thing. I mean, Barney Greengrass Sturgeon King.
+
+[7:43] You ever been there, Stas? It's Upper Manhattan. Barney Greengrass Sturgeon King, that's like old school New York. And you know, you get their omelet with the fish in it. But it's gonna go to Russ and Daughters and get like some amazing locks and bagels, get their amazing cream cheese, go out, have a picnic.
+
+[7:55] It's nice out. I mean, Robert is I haven't really have I don't think I've been here for for brunch, but they're supposedly they have a good brunch, right? Yeah. Who else? Can you think of anyone?
+
+[8:02] Uh no. I just don't eat out. I don't eat out for the morning. You don't eat it at all? I mean, unless I have to do it.
+
+[8:09] Yeah, but you have a disgusting look on your face. Usually friends choose like those brunch places that are just bad and expensive. That's your favorite combination, bad and expensive, right? Also, there's hardly ever reservation, so you're waiting forever. Yeah.
+
+[8:20] And you could already be eating. Yeah. And you're starving because it's first thing in the morning. Yeah, and you're starving, and like if you're gonna go out, you want that mimosa, but no one else at the table is drinking. Yeah.
+
+[8:31] And then you don't want to be the dick because you know they're gonna split the check and you don't want to be the dick. Oh, yeah. Yeah, you hate that, right, Stas? That's the look I I I could sense all of that just from the You can't see the look on her face, but I could sense all of that. Okay.
+
+[8:42] Back to the Doritos. Uh all right, so here's a trick. Uh I called uh Piper on the way in, uh, Piper Christianson, who's our uh kind of uh coating snack chips with powder's kind of fellow, right? He's our our guru on that. Uh he says that Doritos are actually applied not as a powder but as a slurried spray.
+
+[8:59] Like probably he's not sure whether it's an oil-based slurry or water-based slurry that they then dry out later, but they make a slurry and spray it onto the chips, which is why they get such an even coating over such a fine thing. Piper typically, when he's making slurries, um, does about 40% oil by weight with uh spice mixtures that he's gonna put in, but your results may vary. Here's what you definitely don't want to do. You don't want to add enzorbit to that thing. What you want is, in fact, the in the cheddar powder that you have is a lot of multixtrinal already, which is an anti-caking agent and what's allowed them to spray dry it, and that's gonna get in your way uh too.
+
+[9:33] But here are the basic ingredients for uh Doritos. Uh Piper did some uh research when I was on the train over here. They are uh cheese powder. They add milk powder and whey uh proteins because uh they want to be cheap and don't want to add extra cheese powder. You can just add more cheese powder if you want, or if you want it to be more kind of milky, uh, you know, without more cheesy flavor, you can add uh milk powder and uh whey protein powder.
+
+[9:57] Okay, uh whey powder, rather. Um also tomato powder if you want it red, right? And to get that tomato powder, then they add various pepper powders. Oh, you could source all this stuff by the way. Uh pepper powder.
+
+[10:08] So you want jalapeno. The problem is I couldn't find a s I I don't know if they have a source of freeze-dried jalapeno, which you could just pulse. Otherwise, you're gonna have to just get um like sliced very thin and dry them out and then pulse them and then maybe redehydrate them. Or this is why Piper says maybe incorporate them into a slurry or get other forms of powdered uh peppers, probably both sweet and uh and spicy. Uh, and then uh salt, probably a healthy chunk of salt, and uh everyone's favorite ingredient, especially uh Nastasia's MSG.
+
+[10:40] And so then you're gonna want to mix all those things together and don't add any extra bulking agent because these things are gonna be bulky enough. Now you could either take the fresh chip uh as a first thing, like uh fry it, pull it out, like shake it off a little bit, and then shake it with the powder in a core container, but you're gonna get clumps. Piper thinks the clumps are coming probably from the Malta Dextrin, uh, but it's hard to say. Or you could try spreading them out and then making the oil slurry and spraying it with a sprayer. The trick is you gotta get a sprayer that can spray powders.
+
+[11:06] I don't have one, so we don't do that. Piper has tried doing a slurry just with shaking, but it was kind of uneven coverage, so you might have to stay with powders. But stay away from the insorbit because you're not trying to absorb oil off of it. You're trying to spread a uh a powder over top of the chip. Yeah?
+
+[11:19] Mm-hmm. Okay. The other John Stewart writes in. That's he that's so he that's what he calls himself. Yeah.
+
+[11:27] The other John Stewart. The other John Stewart doesn't write us. What well the uh you know what? You know what the other John Stewart, you you are our real Jon Stewart. The other the like the what everyone else considers the real John Stewart is the other Jon Stewart for us, right?
+
+[11:40] Yeah. Right. About rice. Hammer Dave and the boys are just the boy today. Uh thank you for the popcorn advice the other week.
+
+[11:47] I ended up finding a decent used popcorn machine on Craigslist for a hundred and twenty-five bucks. Worked great for family outdoor movie night, Craigslist. Do you are you a Craigslist shopper? Yeah, I used to be. Yeah?
+
+[11:57] But you mainly for apartments or for stuff? Both. Did you sell stuff on Craigslist? Do you like those people? Uh-huh.
+
+[12:03] Yeah? Mm-hmm. Yeah. Um, yeah, I've never been a big Craigslist guy. I should get into it though, because I was I'm a big auction guy and eBay guy.
+
+[12:09] I'm so used to eBay that I gotta get used to the Craigslist. The whole kind of like where they don't necessarily call you backstows. Like, that means they already sold it. I'm like, well, why don't they why don't they take it off the listing? Like, they just don't do that.
+
+[12:17] So I'm not into that. I'm not into that. Nastasha comes from the generation where it's just like it's well, whatever, it's free flow. Hey man, maybe they sold it, maybe they didn't. They don't want my money, they don't want my money.
+
+[12:26] You know? Anyway, whatever. Uh the question I have for you today is about sticky rice, which I cook pretty regularly and is glorious stuff. I take uh white glutinous rice, which by the way has no gluten, as we all know, uh rinse it, soak it for a couple of hours, and steam it. And by the way, that is the traditional technique.
+
+[12:43] You steam sticky rice traditionally. It's not how I cook it anymore, but that's the traditional way. Um and the pre-soak gets the kind of water in it, get it started, and the steaming, you can steam it through without any sort of agitation, and it doesn't kind of wash the awesomeness off of it, and so it stays sticky and awesome and shiny and it looks great. Anyway, yeah, it is a really good way to cook. I mean, come on, it's the way to cook sticky rice, let's be honest.
+
+[13:04] Okay. I've wondered if there is some way to do it with brown rice for both the nutty flavor and the purported health benefits. My one experiment in this regard was a miserable failure. Mixing white glutinous rice and brown rice cooking similarly, i.e., soaking and then steaming. It didn't stick, and the brown rice never cooked through.
+
+[13:19] Do you see a way, thanks, John Stewart? Okay, first of all, uh first of all, if you haven't already tried this, uh, you need to go out, and this is a separate, it has nothing to do with what you just asked. But you need to go out and buy some black sticky rice or Thai black sticky rice or whatever the black glutinous rice. There's a number of different things they call it, but it's it's it's it's a long-grain sticky rice, so it's already unique there. And they don't mill the outside, so it's got and they and the brand layer is black.
+
+[13:44] And when you cook it, it kind of turns purple, and it's it doesn't stick together, but what's awesome about it is the inside of it has that gooey texture of sticky rice, and the outside still has some like snap from the hull on the outside. And it's typically used uh for sweet recipes, but I use it all the time, or I used to use it all the time, because I just think it's awesome. I love it. Also, if you cook it, uh overcook it, dehydrate it, it puffs and leaves kind of a black puff thing with a white thing coming out of the inside and puffs extremely well. So black sticky rice, if you haven't already tried it, uh you're gonna love it.
+
+[14:16] Everyone who tries it loves it. Um very few people I know use it for its traditional uh dessert, you know, applications. But like most people I know just like they just end up loving it. Uh I know I do. Okay.
+
+[14:26] Here's the thing. Uh my rice cooking has gone way downhill uh uh you know since the past ten years, basically, because about ten years ago I was given the most butt-kicking at the time. I think there's higher levels now, Zoji Rushi uh induction neuro fuzzy uh rice cooker. And that sucker is so awesome that it can cook fairly good sticky rice just by pushing a button and uh letting it go. Uh wait, one second.
+
+[14:52] So wait, wait, wait a second. John, I'm gonna I have a collar on the air, don't want to don't want to lose them. I'm gonna finish your question. So stay tuned for rice cooking and I think for a traditional steaming solution to your problem, after this caller caller, you're on the air. Uh hey Dave and uh Nastasha and Joe, this is Salmon Queens.
+
+[15:07] How are you? Doing all right. How's Queens doing? Uh Queens is great. Um I have questions about cocktail cherries.
+
+[15:14] And I know you're I know you're allergic to them, which is a tragedy, but uh hoping you could help me out. Okay. Uh so chiefly I'm concerned with uh storage and firmness. I've I've been doing cocktail cherries every year with sour cherries from the green market, and I use a recipe from the New York Times where I heat up Marisquino liqueur and add a splash of almond extract and pour it over the pitted cherries in the jars, and I put the jars in the fridge, and two weeks later they are delicious. Is that Toby's recipe, by the way?
+
+[15:38] What's that? Is that Toby's recipe? It very well may be. I don't remember. It's just in my files.
+
+[15:43] Um But my first question is I'm assuming that I need to store it in the fridge, but I've wondered if the sugar in the liqueur or the alcohol level, because it's about sixty sixty or sixty-four proof, if that inhibits mold formation or other nastiness. I mean, can I store it outside the fridge at uh at room temperature. Huh, what's the total weight? I mean total weight of cherries for weight of alcohol? Um gosh, it's probably it's probably I would say uh about a uh about a four to uh three or four to one ratio with cherries to alcohol.
+
+[16:12] But I basically just fill up uh I fill up a uh a pint jar of uh a pint mason jar with the cherries and then just uh cover them with the alcohol. I mean the question on yeast and mold is strictly comes down to the final proof of the product. You know what I mean? If you're if you're if your product is you know uh well above uh twenty twenty twenty-five percent then you're inhibiting acetobacter you're inhibit in inhibiting um you're inhibiting I think most yeasts I mean uh this is off the top of my head um I would think although uh I'm trying to think of what all there's a bunch of reactions going for like and they have how long do they stay firm when you leave them out? Why do you want to leave them out?
+
+[16:53] Does you don't have room in your fridge? Well but yeah I'd basically just to say yeah it's a safe fridge space. I mean I uh they keep more or less indefinitely in the fridge. I have some that are two or three years old that are that are still fantastic and no signs of mold or anything. Yeah well I'll tell you this.
+
+[17:04] They haven't killed me yet I'll tell you this uh my uh my stepfather's grandfather in about 1920 uh put um cherries in high proof uh brandy uh and they aren't stored in the fridge they're stored in um they're stored in the in the basement in in uh in my stepfather's father's basement so he's now ninety three ninety four uh they're in his basement and they're still good. Do they do they can those are those are the bottom vacuum sealed or anything? No, nope. Just in a bottle. Uh in a you know in a mason jar.
+
+[17:38] And then they uh they they pull them out and there's still three left. Uh I haven't had one since I was probably, you know, 13, 12, 13. It knocked me on my butt, but at the time it was still, you know, it was still good to go. Uh another thing you might want to do if you want to experiment with extremely firm uh fleshed ones uh is um hit them with a little uh novo shape. Uh soak them for a while in uh Novo shape and calcium uh pr just prior to the alcohol soak uh and see whether or not they because I haven't I haven't run the test because you know I can't eat them.
+
+[18:16] You clip the stems but leave the stems you you leave the stems in, and they say that that is what keeps them from going mushy. I don't know if that's true or false. I mean, and now people do that just so that they have the stem in the cocktail, but I don't know. What's your experience been with that? Are you a stem on person or stem off?
+
+[18:29] I'm usually a stem off person because I I just I just throw them in, I throw them in the bottom of a Manhattan and uh, you know, the the stems get in the way and I don't want people to choke on them. But yeah, that was my next question, it was actually going to be about the firmness, because you know the Luxardo brand cherries are really just kind of meaty, and you know, the mine, well they they taste great after two weeks in the in the in the liqueur, they get kind of flabby, and I was just wondering if there was some sort of additive, you know, I could use to preserve the texture. So it's you called it uh Novo Chem? Uh Novo Shape, which is an enzyme that's being sold by uh well you can it's you could buy it now at Modernist Pantry. I think they carry it now.
+
+[19:02] Uh you know, you could test it, but it requires extra calcium to work. And you could also just try adding calcium, and that's gonna firm it up too. But the calcium uh helps the pectins um uh crosslink. Uh and when the pectins cross link, uh then they uh the thing stays firmer, it doesn't break down. Novo shape is an enzyme that uh actively cross links um uh the the stuff in the presence of calcium, so it just accelerates that.
+
+[19:27] There are uh it's called uh pectin um was it pectamethylesterase is the enzyme and it uh it there are natural ones in the in the fruit that will continue to work but you can just you know jack it with that the one issue with it is that unlike uh the pectinase enzymes that we use to break down um fruit pulp I don't know how Novo shape responds to alcohol concentration so I know that I know that the Pectanx Ultra SPL pectinase that I use was uh works fine uh in liquor I don't know about Novo Shape you know it it would be nice to run some experiments uh maybe you know I can I've just been so strapped recently I haven't ha had the chance uh but the guys at Gusmer might even have like a protocol for it because I'm pretty sure they use stuff like that uh to do the cherries. And in in in absence of that any sort of added calcium is going to help you. Okay. I think I'll I think I'll uh as soon as the uh the very brief sour cherry season starts I'll uh give it a whack myself and uh I'll I'll put the results up on cocktailions. Thank you.
+
+[20:23] Super thank you. Appreciate it. Bye bye. Oh you didn't say it was that Sam. Hey Sam.
+
+[20:30] Okay. So uh John uh Stewart back on rice. So here's the daily. So the rice cooker, first of all, if you don't already own a Zoji Rushi or equivalent like super rice cooker they're they're just freaking they're just they're just awesome. But uh so what it does is uh it just controls the temperature very accurately use a pre-measured amount of water.
+
+[20:53] So unlike steaming where you keep steaming it until it absorbs enough water for it to be perfect, you have to pre-measure the amount of water and they have a line for sticky rice and whatnot. But the good news about these rice cookers is that they can cook mixed rices fairly effectively because they just wait for everything to absorb the proper amount and then they click out. For instance, I today cooked uh white rice, regular crappy white rice, on the brown rice setting of my rice cooker this morning for like an hour and a half, and it was a little more blown out than normal, but was pretty much fine. So you might be able to get away uh just using uh like the semi-brown setting uh or even maybe the sticky rice setting, but I would try the semi-brown maybe of one of those cookers with the mixed rice and get it. The other thing is is that you're never gonna get stickiness out of the brown rice, right?
+
+[21:40] So you need to have enough sticky rice to inh to have it stick together even though the brown the brown rice is always going to be inhibiting on your stickiness, it's always gonna be ruining, it's always gonna be like kind of you know, uh uh uh a fly in your stickiness ointment, so to say. Because uh, you know, it's not gonna provide that stickiness. But the actual accurate answer to do it your traditional way is uh is pretty simple, and here it is. Ready? Do your uh do your soak, do your soak adoke, whatever you're gonna do on the sticky rice.
+
+[22:07] I unfortunately don't have times because I didn't I didn't have any sticky rice, so I couldn't run a quick test. Um do your soak, then before you steam the sticky rice, boil the uh brown rice in copious water, right? Like it's pasta. Right? Now you're gonna want to boil it for anywhere between ten and probably twenty five minutes, depending on how much more steaming time it's gonna take in the with the sticky rice.
+
+[22:33] Okay. Then after you parboil the stuff, don't let it cool down. We're not doing a retrograded parboiling thing. Uh drain it like it's pasta. Stir mix it in with your sticky rice and steam as as usual.
+
+[22:46] Now the the the major variable here that's going to to change is how much you pre-boil the brown rice before you start steaming it. I can't say. I would start if if the brown rice the last time you did it was close to being done, I would boil it for maybe eight minutes, ten minutes, somewhere in there. They they the the hard thing is is that brown like rice is gonna cook a lot faster in copious boiling water because it can absorb water a lot faster than when you're doing typical absorption methods that don't have uh a lot of extra water around. You'll know like everyone knows when you cook beans and when you cook rice that the last little bit of uh cooking is the hardest part to get, right, Stas, when you're making like a and it's because there's not as much free water around to get back into your product.
+
+[23:30] So you know it might it might only take like five minutes of a pre-boil or eight or ten, I don't know. Uh and then mix it in and steam it. That should work. What do you think? Good.
+
+[23:39] Good. All right, she's like, I don't care. All right. Uh you want to go to our first commercial break? Yes.
+
+[23:43] Coming back with cooking issues, and I'm not sure what you're doing. This is Chris Young, co-author of Modernist Cuisine, and co-founder of Chef Steps.com. We've just launched our free short course on spherification, a modernist technique that can imbue a flavorful liquid with the appearance of being solid. A culinary illusion that's broken when the spheres burst with flavor as they're eaten. Our free course offers helpful step-by-step demonstrations of reverse, frozen reverse, and direct spherification.
+
+[25:06] We also explore the science behind spherification so that you can go beyond our recipes and create your own to surprise and delight your family and friends. And as always at Chef Steps, you get the support of a friendly community of experienced cooks and world-class chefs who will answer your questions. If you're interested in learning modernist cooking techniques, if you want more from the creative team behind modernist cuisine, and if like us, you're a fan of Dave Arnold and cooking issues, then we think you'll find a lot you'll like. Sign up now at Chefsteps.com. It's a good word, right?
+
+[25:45] Yeah, it's good. Nice. Nice. Go check out Chef Steps, our good friends. Uh yeah, those good people.
+
+[25:52] They're good people. Known them a long time. Good people. Okay, oh, by the way, uh, this weekend, uh, I went up to Riverside Drive. Uh, have some friends up there up in the hundred and fifties, you know.
+
+[26:03] You know, ever you ever been up there, Sas? Yeah. You ever you ever gone under the uh under the George Washington Bridge? There's a little red lighthouse? Yeah.
+
+[26:08] When I was a kid, I used to go there, but as a kid I didn't I didn't know any better. Uh so I went there, and the entire Riverside Park over there is nothing but okay. There are other plants. There's a lot of oaks and stuff like that. But the three things that struck me were so many mulberry trees, all completely in season right now, so many different kinds of shad slash service berry trees, all almost pretty much in season right now.
+
+[26:34] And eight boatloads of poison ivy. Like so much poison ivy, like so much poison ivy. But the good news is that the mulberry trees and uh the service berries are not in the poison ivy. So you don't need to ruin yourself to get these things. But the really sad part about it is that I when I was there, I saw no one, no one gathering uh the mulberries or the service berries.
+
+[26:59] And uh I, you know, you know, me and uh and my crew, we picked uh a couple of quarts of mulberries, uh, you know, the the red ones, and made a delicious pie. I made I cooked myself a pie on on Father's Day with mulberry pie, but delicious. And then I know I started noticing there's so many mulberry trees around uh New York. And so I've now started sampling them, uh, and it turns out they're incredibly variable in quality. Like astoundingly variable in quality.
+
+[27:27] Like some are almost inedible, they're crap. And some of them are amazing with you know, the the thing that the thing that makes a really great mulberry is a no kind of like not too musky, off-flavored, uh, although I like a little bit of musky mulberry flavor in there. Uh, but enough sweetness and also enough acidity. A lot of like when the mulberries are very ripe, they kind of lack acidity and they're kind of a little flabby and flat. So you have to taste all your mulberry trees around you, and now is the time if you live in New York, we're at the upper bounds of uh of them and taste them.
+
+[27:56] So the interesting is that uh over there there's uh here in the United States, our native mulberry is the red mulberry, Morris rubra, right? Which is can be very delicious. But the problem is that they imported these white mulberries, Morris Alba, which uh uh which the the good news about them is that uh that's what the silkworms eat when they're doing the silkworm stuff. Um but uh silkworm, as as you can tell if you've been to the United States, we don't have a giant silk production here. So that whole silkworm thing didn't take off.
+
+[28:25] But these uh these freaking white mulberry trees, now I like a white mulberry styles. They're like a little more vegetable, like they're all right. I mean, like they're no kind of they're no they're no Morris uh rubra, you know what I'm saying? Uh uh but uh the problem is is these these white mulberry freaking things uh hybridize like lunatics. They're just like they hybridize with our with our native mulberry trees, and they produce all of these like weird crosses, some of which are delicious and some of which are bad.
+
+[28:49] Uh and so you just have to go and and and also even within just straight up uh you know, red mulberries or white mulberries, the tastes are incredibly different. And then some fool has developed fruitless mulberry trees, which is like I can't even I can't even describe I can't you there are no polite terms to describe kind of what I think because oh the mulberry tree is so messy, crap on you. For like the two, three weeks a year that the mulberries are coming off the tree, it's like it's like the most often first of all, mulberry they're they're beautiful trees, so I can see why you would want one, but if you don't want the fruit, just don't park your car under it. You know what I'm saying? Jerks.
+
+[29:21] Jerks. Oh yeah, 18th year anniversary. Good. I had some leftover pie on that uh last night. What did I cook?
+
+[29:28] I cooked, I I what did I cook? I cook crab salad. My wife likes crab salads like that's one of our big like and she loves uh pineapple crab salads. I made her pineapple crab salad and some salmon. But uh Dave, did you know there used to be a mulberry tree on this very block?
+
+[29:42] Did you eat did you partake of it? I used to all of the time until they built the uh they built a parking lot for the for uh at the end, right next to Roberta's. And this would, you know, I just walk by and you could just, you know, pull down a branch, pull some berries off, and uh be on your way. Sons of bitches, when did they knock it down? It was probably two or three years ago at this point.
+
+[29:59] But when I first moved in around here and and it was a sad day when I noticed it was gone. That sucks. Yeah. Bummer. That sucks.
+
+[30:07] Uh so you know, when you're gonna cap when you're gonna get mulberries, just like don't wear clothes that uh stain, because the suckers are super fragile and they're gonna break all yeah, your hands, right? Even if you just get a couple, they're gonna stain the hell out of your hands. You're gonna look like uh like a vampire too, like you have blood all over yourself. Oh, I know. Dax, when he was eating all my his whole face was all uh coated and sprayed and mulberry juice.
+
+[30:25] But hey, it's worth it. You know what I mean? Uh so you know, there's a couple on uh up near we we had some yesterday, Stas right near uh Casimono where we went for lunch. Yeah, they that they were really good. The ones by my uh by the parking lot near my house, real spitters.
+
+[30:41] Real spitters. But I wish we still had the one from Roberta. It wasn't it wasn't a Roberta's person who knocked it down, was it? I don't think so. I think it's for the there's a parking lot for the Wonton factory that's also down the street.
+
+[30:51] I think it's uh has to do with that. Yeah. I can't imagine that the uh Robert's people would knock down the mulberries. No, that'd be crazy. That would be absolutely antithetical.
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+[31:00] Yeah, because they could they could just be making pies left and right. Yeah, exactly. Oh my god. Very local. You know what the thing is, like I'm not like a like a local forager by any means compared to people who actually are local foragers, but I mean that stuff is delicious and it's right there.
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+[31:13] It's so depressing to not see people eating it. Yeah, free food, free berries. Free food, right. I mean, you know, like if you like if you live see see the problem is that people aren't used to branching out of their normal what they what they eat, you know. So like that a tree pun?
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+[31:26] Oh, wow. Yeah, I didn't know. So like when I used to go to Arizona all the time, because my in-laws lived in Arizona. There's all this free, free citrus on the street, and no one eats it because it's sour, but it makes great lemonade. They're basically still or marmalade, and yet they're sitting there rotting because no one wants the free fruit.
+
+[31:42] But if Baldar was gonna sell you that fruit at, you know, X, you know, for whatever, then you'd be like, oh, that's great. People are dumb. Not you guys. Not listeners. People.
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+[31:52] Okay. Tom Fisher on a Kun Recon follow-up. It's probably a little strong before. I didn't mean dumb. I just meant they should break out.
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+[31:59] Don't worry. Our listeners love you. Whatever. Okay. Tom Fisher followed up with his Coon Recon remember.
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+[32:05] If you remember, Tom was having some trouble with uh some leaking of steam around the valve on his Kun Recon pressure cooker. Uh and I had a couple other people write in saying that they had had uh similar problems, that maybe there was a QC issue for a while, because mine never did that. Uh you know, mine never did that. Anyway, so uh Kunricon wrote him back. Uh, and here's what uh Jill Stroop from Coon Recon did.
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+[32:28] Uh thank you. This is to uh to Tom. Thank you for providing uh the additional information about where it was leaking and whatnot. It is normal to have a slight hissing coming from your valve as long as it is coming up to pressure and not leaking any water from the valve, your pressure cooker will work as it should. Please let me know if you have any additional questions regarding Jill Stroop.
+
+[32:47] So they're not owning it. Not owning it. Not owning it. I'm sorry about that, Tom. Uh, you know, a little bit of steam.
+
+[32:55] Now remember, when we talk about steam coming out of the pressure cooker and the flavor loss in a pressure cooker because of the steam coming out, you gotta the ones that actually vent steam vent a lot of steam. They're like or shh the whole time, and you can see steam coming out. And I think that you know, small amounts of steam coming out probably won't have as much effect, but that's probably uh of little solace to you. Okay. Uh William McGee writes in uh we named an episode after him when he became a member.
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+[33:24] Yeah. Uh about dehydrators and vacuum machines. I'll do I'll do it in reverse. I'll do man, I'll do it. I recently bought an Excalibur Five Trade Dehydrator and been using it like crazy.
+
+[33:33] Good call. Excalibur is a good dehydrator. Uh dehydrating things like do you s do you like when people say herbs instead of herbs? Or do you hate that stuff? I don't like herb.
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+[33:41] You don't like herb? No. No offense to anyone out there named herb. No dude is named herb. Herb is okay.
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+[33:47] That herb's okay, but not herb that you eat. Okay, so herb the guy. He's okay. He's okay. All right.
+
+[33:53] Uh tomatoes and bananas. The bananas taste great, but the texture is leathery and it's chewy. I've read that store-bought banana chips are either freeze-dried or fried. Any way to make them crispy without frying? Yeah, freeze dry.
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+[34:04] No kidding. Anyway. My other uh let's do that first. Okay, here's the problem. Uh whenever you're drying something uh in a normal dehydrator, as it as it dehydrates, the uh the cells are gonna collapse down, and there's really almost nothing you can do about it unless you can either preserve the structure, which is done in freeze drying, uh, by freezing and then sublimating the the liquid out of it, or uh frying where the uh water is boiling out of it at at a kind of a ferocious rate and keeping the structure expanded until it's dry enough to hold its own weight afterwards.
+
+[34:38] So really like that that's the problem. There is you know, there are very few things you can do at at home to mimic that. You can, for instance, par dehydrate bananas and then explosively puff them in the Museum of Food and Drinks puffing gun. There are a bunch of uh people who have dried uh fruits and vegetables using explosive puffing techniques. It's a little bit outside the range of what you can do uh at home.
+
+[35:01] Uh another thing that's outside of the range of what you could do at home that does a similar thing is microwave vacuum dehydration. Now, uh please do not tamper with your microwave in any way. Uh it can be very, very dangerous. That said, I've done it, and I had very miserable results when I was trying to do vacuum microwave dehydration, which shows that even if you have uh, you know, a you know, fair amount of uh uh willingness to mess around with the technical aspects of things, it's not exactly uh simple to do. I'll tell you what the main problem with microwave uh vacuum dehydration is.
+
+[35:35] Uh and the principle there is that you uh put a vacuum on your product and then you put a microwave to boil the water out, but because it's under a vacuum, it doesn't boil at very high temperature so that the products don't get uh cooked and the sugars don't caramelize and it keeps its uh it's you know it it works nicely. Uh now the problem is is that if you even slightly overheat a portion of the thing with the microwave and it's under a vacuum, uh you uh can sort of carbonize the outside. Once it goes black, you get huge plasma arcs coming out of it. And so you it forms almost like a giant light bulb on the inside of your microwave and we get some awful burning, terrible smells, and not to mention the fact that you've you know uh you know you modified your microwave and you know had to hook a vacuum machine up to it. It's just a just a just a nightmare, just a real nightmare, right?
+
+[36:24] So I'd say I'd say I have no good solution for you there. Right? Yeah, sorry. Uh now the other question I have an opportunity to buy a used Vacmaster VP 215, the one with the oil based pump for a good price. What are the things that need to check out to make sure it's in good working condition?
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+[36:38] The unit's about a year old and was primarily used in a home. As always, keep up the awesome work, William McGee. Here's what you need to do. Uh, first of all, check to make sure it seals bags. If the Teflon seal uh bar across it, if the seal bar is kind of burnt, that's not such a big deal because you have to replace the Teflon tape that goes over the seal bar on a relatively regular basis anyway.
+
+[36:57] Um open the machine, run it for uh like five, ten minutes to heat up the pump and to boil out any uh contaminants that are in the oil, then stick a container of ice water uh into it, close it, and run it. If you can eventually, and when I say eventually, after like you know, several minutes, boil the ice water, then your uh then your pump's probably in pretty good shape. It can boil it off, and then you know you're doing well. Uh if it can't boil that, see if it can boil uh like cold tap water. If it can boil cold tap water, also probably doing okay.
+
+[37:28] Make sure the gauges work properly. Um other than that, right? I mean, that's those those are the things I would check right off the bat. I mean, it should sound smooth, uh, it shouldn't sound like it has any any problems. Uh other than that, that's those are the main things to check.
+
+[37:42] Also, make sure that the vacuum setting knob that allows you to change how what the preset vacuum is, make sure that it works properly, because a lot of times the vacuum gauge can go on it. Uh and by the way, when you're running those tests, you want it at maximum vacuum so you can see what it can do when it's trying to pull all the way down. Uh, you make sure that it can actually that that thing works. A lot of times that goes. Not that that's a big deal.
+
+[38:01] Uh, but check those out and see what's going on. Right? Yep. Okay. Uh we got this one in from Scott at in Guelph.
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+[38:08] But although we don't know whether he's at the University of Guelph or not. Okay. We don't know yet. We don't know. Maybe he'll tell us a day.
+
+[38:15] Hey, hammer. Uh, he wrote two different things, so I'm combining them. Hey, hammer and the nails, Jack, Joe, and whoever the heck is working today. Uh, that would make me the nails. Which which I guess sounds like it's cool, except for I'm getting hit over the head with a hammer.
+
+[38:27] Anyway. I've been inadvertently reading a lot lately about coffee. I love espresso as well as a balanced American-style cup of coffee. Uh, and then he says, Stop burning your beans, Starbucks. You're in.
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+[38:38] I agree, yeah. Yes. Well, yeah. I love Stas. Now she perks up when someone throws a similar hate down.
+
+[38:44] Yeah. Well, we all know that uh Nastasha prefers coffee that she gets on the corner out of the person who like lives in that metal box. Um no offense to the guy in the metal box. Yeah. But I know.
+
+[38:56] I just don't think he's sourcing you know the highest quality beans or really cares about them that much. No. I mean, if the quality, if the quality of the coffee mimics the quality of the buttered Kaiser roll, then you know. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[39:08] Okay. Kaiser rolls are so awesome though. Back, you know, like for I haven't eaten one in many years. I love Kaiserle. You like Kaiserroll?
+
+[39:14] Mm-hmm. Little swirly shape? With the poppies, right? You don't like a plain Kaiser roll, right? Yeah, okay, good.
+
+[39:19] Finally we can agree on something. All right. Uh I got a chance. Oh, sorry. There are a lot of people out there doing a lot of techniques and experimenting with different variables.
+
+[39:27] I got a chance to try cat crap coffee a couple years ago, and I really like the richness and strength of the coffee without the bitterness or harshness. Uh what he's referring to here, of course, is Copi Luwak. And it's not actually a cat, it's uh it's called a civet cat, it's a civet, it's just little creature. It's also the same creature that they uh that they uh in kind of keep in cages in uh North Africa, I think it's in North Africa, and get musk from that civet mutt that perfume thing, and uh people are up in arms. I don't really know whether it's good or bad for the animals or if it's painful.
+
+[39:56] I've known nothing about it. But uh what happens uh over in Copi Louac uh land, uh, you know, in the Pacific, there is uh these civic cats run around, eat the choicest, ripest uh coffee cherries, which by the way don't taste good. I've had coffee cherries, they don't taste anything like a cherry, so I thought I was gonna go through it. No, no, no, no. Don't do it I mean, not terrible, but like like a papery husk with like a little bit of mucilage.
+
+[40:19] Eh, whatever. So they eat the choicest, ripest ones. And the great thing about these uh civic cat things is they they they always go to the same place and they crap in the same place and they crap out a load of beans, and you know they do it pretty quick because you know they're hyped up caffeinated because there's caffeine in those uh beans as well. And I'm sure that the fruit does a similar thing to you that the that the brew does, and so I'm sure that the civic cats are like running over there to crap out their little pile of beans, and uh you the they've been uh kind of de-hulled at that point, and their intestinal system, which is somewhat short, uh does some work on the outside of it and supposedly makes these beans awesome, right? So that's the theory of the cat crab coffee.
+
+[40:56] Cat crab coffee sounds like uh cat scratch fever, like the Nugent that's Ted Nugent, right? I think it's right, Joe? That's Ted Nugent, right? Cascatch Fever? Definitely.
+
+[41:05] Yeah, okay. Uh anyway. Uh so here's my rundown to try and recreate the cat crab with non excreted coffee beans. First of all, uh, and this is just Scott like letting letting you listeners know his technique, which I've never tried before, so maybe we'll try it. Maybe one of you guys will try it.
+
+[41:20] Here's my rundown to create this with non excreted beans. First of all, you need a funnel and a coffee filter. The key is to hydrate the grounds first. You boil a kettle of water and then pour the freshly boiled water on the grounds a little bit. Uh like the ISI method uh you developed that I developed for infusion.
+
+[41:35] Uh, this allows the liquid to get intimate with the grounds and start the process of dissolving all the coffee goodness. After about five minutes, uh the kettle is cooled to the ideal temperature for coffee extraction. Slowly put slowly pour the water over the grounds, keeping the ground swirling around for a maximum extraction rate. I use three tablespoons of coffee for a regular 12 ounce coffee cup. The whole extraction takes between 30 seconds and one minute.
+
+[41:54] This is enough to get all the richness and flavor out of the coffee, but not long enough to get the acidity in the tannins. The result is a very rich brew without the harshness. It even tastes good when it has gone cold. I know you love the espresso, but this is a brew that is impressive, even if it lacks a slap in the face beauty of espresso. So uh someone give that a try.
+
+[42:09] See whether you like it. Interesting. I haven't tried I have not tried that. I do not know. I have not tried it.
+
+[42:13] Now, on the topic of sugar, I've been teaching my hospitality students. Hospitality. Uh I've teaching my hospitality students how to make hard candy stained glass sculptures. We've been assembling the structures with hot glue or molten sugar. Uh although, you know, isomalt is much easier as you know, because you're about to talk to me about my isomol.
+
+[42:29] Because isomalt is non-hygroscopic, so it doesn't suck up uh uh, you know, it doesn't suck up moisture from the atmosphere as readily as sugar does, and it also uh doesn't brown as much when you boil it, and you can re- you can when you heat it and you can reheat it and re-melt a couple times without getting all brown and breaking down the way sucrose does. Anyway, it occurred to me that a hot glue gun might be loaded with sugar to melt it without caramelizing it. We use a mix of granulated sugar and straight vinegar brought up to 310. The straight uh vinegar there, for those of you that don't do sugar work, is there to um invert a portion of the sugar uh because the acid at high temperature hydrolyzer sugar breaks the sucrose into fructose and glute glucose, that's invert, and the invert is there to prevent recrystallization of the sugar as it cools. You gotta get the amount right, otherwise it otherwise it it's too soft.
+
+[43:11] Anyway, whatever. Uh and straight uh vinegar brought to 310 to get crystal clear sugar glass without recrystallization. Since you have experience with 3D printing food, I was wondering if you had any thoughts about 3D printing sugar rather than chocolate or masa paste. Can you imagine chowing down on a Nastasha-shaped jawbreaker? Or or just breaking it.
+
+[43:29] Just breaking it. Uh so uh here's the thing. There are there's a uh a I think it's uh I forget the name of the website, uh, because I forgot to look it up. But Evil Mad Scientist, I think, or the rep rap guys, and they uh did a extruded sugar, and so what they extruded sugar, I believe, either into more sugar or into cornstarch and made a giant wood screw out of uh sugar. So, yes, sugar, molten sugar has been 3D printed for a long time, and there are tons of uh pastry arts people out there who load isomalt sticks.
+
+[44:01] They don't use sugar sticks, they use isomalt sticks uh into hot glue guns uh and then use the isomalt sticks as hot glue. Uh there's in fact a company called I think get sassy, sassy shot is the name of their uh thing that sells some a tailor-made item for this. I would use the low temperature uh glue guns and realize that uh you will probably burn yourself. Let me say this again you're gonna burn yourself, uh, and then as a secondary thing, you might want to know that you're gonna burn yourself. Also, the auto feed things don't work, so you're gonna have to use a chopstick or a stick to push the isomalt through the uh glue gun.
+
+[44:35] Duh, do not use one that was already used on glue. Get a fresh one, and also I believe use the low temperature, the low wattage ones because I've heard that the other ones, the sugar just melts out into nothingness and sprays all over and does what stuff? Burns. Yeah, burns you. Um anyway, so yes, that's possible.
+
+[44:53] Um now, um second. I just wondering, Dave, there's a whole bunch of info on sucrose syrup water concentrations versus boiling temperature. Do you have any info on boiling other sugars or sugar alcohols? What is the temperature versus concentration uh curve for fructose or dextrose or xylitol? Do any of the sugars have interesting properties other than isomalt?
+
+[45:13] Scott, well, uh yeah, the book you want to look at that has a lot of those charts is uh alternative sweeteners, edited by Lynn O'Brien uh neighbor. Uh and uh it's a lot of it's available on uh Google Books or and on Amazon to sift through, including some of the charts for things uh like isomalt and xylitol to get their um their sugar versus concentration curves, uh temperature versus concentration curves and and how soluble they are, in other words, how high a solids you can get out of it. Um and other properties, obviously uh xylitol is cooling. Uh I'm I've been interested in a while, although I haven't played with it with isomulchulose, which is a uh sucrose derivative. And uh the cool thing about that is it's it's about 50% as sweet as sugar.
+
+[45:53] It is caloric, meaning you you you actually process it in your gut, which means it doesn't set your butt on spray if you eat too much of it, which I've never actually had with isomalt. People say if you eat too much isomalt, it causes it it causes uh multiple trips to the bathroom. Let's put it that way. Uh but um apparently um isomaltulose does not uh and it's absorbed slower, which I guess some people think is good, but I do not I also think what's interesting is I don't believe it is extremely fermentable by yeasts. In other words, you might be able to use it to back sweeten beers uh after fermentation and then not have them get further fermented by the yeast, although I'm not sure.
+
+[46:32] I haven't checked up uh very much, so I'm not sure. But look into that. Okay. Uh very quickly, Mike writes in about bones. Hey, it's grilling season, so I have a question.
+
+[46:39] Many people write about how cooking meat on the bones leads to a more flavorful finished product. Is there any reason to believe this? Uh I get that bones are inherently flavorful, which is why we use them for making stock, but I don't see how a bone can transfer flavor in a grilling environment. Thanks, Mike. I agree with you.
+
+[46:53] I don't think it does. What happens with a bone, uh, I mean, when you're using it in stock, you're using it for gelatin extraction and for the meat that's stuck to it. Uh but when you're doing it in a um when you're doing a grilling environment, really it's there as a heat uh you know it modulates the heat so that you don't uh overcook it. Some people like gnawing on the bones, and so there's that, but uh I don't really think it's adding uh much uh flavor uh to it. Right?
+
+[47:16] Matt? What do you think, Stuz? Right. Yeah? All right.
+
+[47:20] Uh okay, so it looks again. Do we have any time? Are we are we I think we're good. Well, you can go on a quick quick nothing's ever quick. I know.
+
+[47:28] Nothing's ever quick. All right, I was gonna go on to a quick rant about uh Clostridium uh perfyngens and Rachel Dutton, the mic uh the microbiologist from uh Harvard, and Harold McGee, who sent me the greatest scientific paper I have ever read about salt risen bread and uh clostridium in the salt risen bread, and about this awesome uh cassava product from uh you know from Cameroon uh and Africa that I've eaten and how they all link together and how this links in with gas gr uh gangrene and uh wound uh victims in World War One, but I guess there's no time. Cooking issues. Cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org.
+
+[48:16] You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage Underscore Radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network dot org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today.
+
+[48:40] Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Underground Meats, an American producer of handcrafted salami and cured meats in Madison, Wisconsin. For more information, visit shop.undergroundfoodcollective.org or stop by their butcher shop in Madison, Wisconsin. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit HeritageRadio Network.org for thousands more. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:34] This is Dave Arnold, your host of Kicking Issues coming to you live from Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn on the Heritage Radio Network, every Tuesday from roughly 12 to 1245. Joined today by Nastasha the Hammer Lopez with Jack Joe and Eddie in the engineering booth. How are you guys doing? Hey, you you're pretty revved up today, huh? Well, it's so freaking hot out that, like, I don't know, my body now that it's cool in the air conditioning here, has all this extra energy it was using to cool itself.
+
+[0:56] I don't know. I don't know. I made that up. Interesting. Calling your questions to 7184972128.
+
+[1:01] That's 7184972128. We hope to be joined soon, correct, Nastasha? With uh, you know, one of our favorite all-time people, Harold McGee, great master blaster of uh science as it relates to uh making things delicious. He is actually en route now from his hotel in Manhattan to the Heritage Radio Network Studios here in Brooklyn. So we'll see how long that takes.
+
+[1:22] It's actually a really crappy time to travel from Manhattan because they're always working on the freaking bridge. Everyone takes the bridge and they're always working on it. You guys notice that? He's taking a subway. Subway.
+
+[1:31] What's that? The traffic sucks from here to from Manhattan to here uh around noontime. Sucks. I think he's making a joke because he never goes. Oh.
+
+[1:39] Oh, I get it. Uh thanks, Mr. I don't understand people who don't go to Manhattan. Like, you know what I mean? Like, you know, we're traveling out here in the in greater greater Brooklyn.
+
+[1:48] Um anyway, so should we hit some questions before uh he shows up? Sure. Anything cool happening, Nastasha? No. Nothing?
+
+[1:55] Finally hit some questions. All right. I have uh I have one little message. I was at Bonaroo with Heritage Radio and Roberta's, and it was all crazy and everything. And we got a little message from a friend that I'm gonna play.
+
+[2:06] Yo, yo, Jeremiah Bullfrog here at Bonaroo. Hanging out with Heritage Radio. Y'all know the deal. I love myself, St. Jeremiah Bullfrog.
+
+[2:17] He's the he's the uh the king of the Miami food trucks, if I'm not mistaken. Gastropod. Gastropod. He's a good man, good man. Uh met him a number of years ago back when I used to teach at the French Culinary Institute.
+
+[2:27] Back when it was called the French Culinary Institute, before it became the International Culinary Center, right, Nastasha? Right. Yeah. Uh okay. Have uh first of all, a shout out to Jack and some information about the museum from Kate.
+
+[2:38] Hello, everyone. I have two questions, if you don't mind, but uh first I'd like to apologize because I'm still catching up on the backlog of cooking issues. So I apologize if you've covered these topics already. Please do not feel obliged to listen to our back catalog, right, Stas? Right.
+
+[2:49] Uh I realize oh wait, uh she says, uh I realize this website for MoFad, that's the Museum of Food and Drink, uh, is updated and looking good. Uh I'll check the website once in a while and hope that more is developed. I would be so excited if it happened, as I live in Brooklyn, love cooking and museums. I do work in the nonprofit sector, so I understand that it takes a tremendous amount of work to get them going. I am down to help in any way possible.
+
+[3:11] I sent an email to them with an offer to volunteer if needed, whatever it takes to get those doors open. I enjoyed the Southern Food and Beverage Museum uh so much when it was in New Orleans and was when I was in New Orleans, it's about time New York has a spot of their own. I'm sure working alongside the New York Historical Society could be fun too, as they recently had a beer exhibit. Well, good news. Uh two good news is one, Kate, we are going to have a Kickstarter launching Wednesdays?
+
+[3:34] Uh Saturday, June 20th century. Saturday? Uh Kickstarter for the Museum of Food and Drinks. So there's gonna be a lot happening and a lot uh to uh look at and a lot to look for. So please, everyone, look out.
+
+[3:45] We're going to put it on Twitter blast, but the Museum of Food and Drink Kickstarter on the Puffing Gun is going to be up within a week, I'm told by Nastash, and she knows all these sorts of things. And the second piece of good news I have for you is that Harold McGee is now in the studio. Is this the first time you've been on the show live? By phone. By phone, yeah.
+
+[4:04] By phone. In person, isn't it? In person, first time. So listen, Trumpsuckers. This is your chance to call in personal questions to Harold McGee at 718-497-2128.
+
+[4:15] That's 718497-2128. And congratulations to all you recent graduates out there. Okay. And uh and Jack, you might be interested in this before before we start up. Uh Kate also said, I just listened to the Cooking Issues episode that was recorded right after Valentine's Day.
+
+[4:31] And I can't help myself but let Jack know that I would have inquired about a potential Valentine's date. He sounds sweet, funny, and interesting. I'm flattered. Yeah? I'm also taken now, though.
+
+[4:42] Oh man, Kate, you're too late. Yeah. Too late. Well, you never know, Jack. This might mean I don't do I know your new girlfriend?
+
+[4:48] Uh no, you don't. So it's so if I can say this, you should maybe it'll be over. Maybe there's room for Kate. Maybe it won't last. I don't know.
+
+[4:55] We'll see. I don't know. I'm getting the I can't believe he's saying this shaking head look from uh Nastasha. So Harold, how are you doing? I'm doing well, except for having taken the red eye and and uh had problems with a hotel, but otherwise.
+
+[5:09] Oh what kind of what kind of problems? Uh went to one place in a reservation, went to the second place in a reservation. Damn. So up in the air. And uh by the way, he is coming here directly off of the red eyes.
+
+[5:20] So this is probably the only chance that you have. I've never like he's never been tripped up, and he's never gotten angry at anyone. So here is your here's your chance to maybe try either, because we we have with us a tired Harold McGee. Uh but thanks so much. Thanks so much uh for coming on the show.
+
+[5:29] So so uh I have some questions. Uh here's one that you might want to weigh in. Uh Barry Muncasey writes in please ad uh please address factors that contribute to food aroma. Now that's very broad, so I'm not gonna ask you to do that. Because uh, you know, that's like a topic of a whole book that you're probably working on now.
+
+[5:51] Uh but uh E.G., how can the aroma of almond chicken soup be enhanced and fill the room? And you've done some work with this in classes with just simply with fans, right? Uh yeah. Um well a bunch of different ways. Uh that's certainly one of them.
+
+[6:08] Heating the soup up so that it's um uh giving off as much vapor as possible. And it turns out that uh if you have room to do it, uh if if the soup could use a little salt, salt will actually help drive aroma out of a food and into the air because it makes the the food more polar, more uh electrically charged, and aromas don't like that, so they they get out into the air where they're more comfortable. Now, is that effect uh reach a certain saturation point, or can you take a small portion of the soup, put it in a wide vessel? Presumably you want the soup in a very wide vessel so you have maximum surface area. So I mean, could you could you punch that up and take a bit of it, put it in a super wide vessel and just salt the pejesus out of it?
+
+[6:53] I've never tried that experiment. Worth trying. Yeah, I mean if you have some extra soup lying about, you know, sacrifice a couple ladles full in a frying pan with some salt and see whether or not you can really amp up the uh well and frying pan, I mean, why not fry it? I mean, put put the heat on and and boil it. That'll get it into the air even faster than just kind of letting it evaporate.
+
+[7:14] I guess that's true, huh? I hadn't thought about that. But you might get bonding of stuff with the oil, right? No? No, I guess you maybe, I don't know.
+
+[7:20] Well, I I don't mean fry fry, I just mean boil. Boil, yeah, yeah. Boil bo boil hard, use a fan, maximize surface area, right? It's all about volatility with that stuff. Yeah.
+
+[7:30] The aroma is fairly simple. I mean it's very, very complicated in how it's integrated, but fairly simple in that it's crap that goes up into the air. Yeah, that's right. That's right. And into your nose.
+
+[7:40] Yeah, and it's to be in the in the air first. Right. And then you know, if you want to cheat, I mean, people have done things like put things in vaporizers and actually volatilize them, or you could um uh use uh ultrasonic humidifiers actually don't boil things, they create uh tiny kind of mist droplets that can carry heavier molecules with them, so you could use an ultrasonic humidifier. But on chicken almond soup, I think that's gonna be kind of a nightmare. It needs to be water thin for that to work.
+
+[8:04] Um another thing you can do, not fill a room, but uh the Japanese are very fond when they have their soups of covering their soups with a bowl on the way to the table uh with uh an inverted like a smaller bowl, and it has the effect of concentrating the head space directly above the soup. So then the person grabs the uh the lid, lifts it, and the soup wafts up into their uh nose and they get the uh the full aroma of it. And that's how the Japanese get away with having relatively underflavored broths. Boom! Boom!
+
+[8:32] Uh but the uh it's a little you know, a little little dig at the Japanese broth there. But the uh but right or no? Yeah, yeah. And and you don't get uh if you can smell it coming, then your nose is already beginning to get adapted to it, right? It's it knows what's coming, it's it's gonna say, okay, yeah, that's that's chicken almond soup.
+
+[8:53] But if you present it with no fanfare, you just open it up and there it is powerfully, it's a much more uh intense experience. An excellent point that I hadn't thought of, and the reason why we should have Harold McGee here all the time. All the time. Uh yeah, in fact, you know, it's interesting point. Uh modern cooking, when I say modern, modern American home cooking is uh all about kind of integrating the kitchen with uh with the dining experience.
+
+[9:20] And part of that is because people who wouldn't ordinarily 80 or 100 years ago be cooking, you know, people who are actually kind of running the house now, take pride in in in what they're cooking. So they want to be integrated in with their guests and have it, and so it's become part of this, you know, aroma of the kitchen is considered a positive thing. Whereas uh, you know, a hundred years ago, it would be you'd be horrified to smell what was going on in the kitchen in your house. It would be horrif horrific, a sign of you know poverty and disgust. You know what I mean?
+
+[9:47] Uh and although I definitely fall in the more modern camp, it is interesting to the idea that maybe you could have in certain circumstances a much more powerful presentation if they didn't smell it until the moment they were gonna cook. Yeah, eat rather. Yeah. Ren? Yeah.
+
+[10:01] So so maybe you want one kind of uh wafty, welcoming aroma. Uh, but that should be not something that you're actually gonna serve at the dinner. Best of both worlds. Yeah. Uh okay.
+
+[10:13] Uh Joel writes in, by the way, Joel, if you're listening, this is Joel of the uh of the heavy of the you know metal version of cooking issues, writes in uh with a rib problem, your idol Harold McGee is here. Did you ever hear his song he sang to you? No. We'll play it for you later. Uh you know, I'm sure Jack ha has it here in the archives.
+
+[10:30] Uh Joel here, a cooking Issues Personal Performance Artist. Uh, still wicked excited to hear my song being used and pumping up the heritage Radio airwaves, and still waiting to hear more about the Sears all attachment progress. The deal with it is we're just trying to figure out uh like my partners are a little worried about safety and people burning themselves is really the main issue. So we're that's what we're dealing with, right, Stas? Yes.
+
+[10:48] Yeah. Uh okay. Um I would be more than happy to be a tester and would like to report back my findings. On to my question regarding low temperature short ribs, boneless, but first here are the specifics. Forty pounds of ribs at 57 degrees Celsius, which is roughly 135 Fahrenheit for you, Fahrenheit heads out there.
+
+[11:02] I cooked them for 60 hours, uh, and the bag contents were seared, unsalted meat, reduced red wine, raw miropoix, herbs, reduced chicken stock, uh cold in the walk in for a few days. All items bagged at room temperature and vacuum sealed and placed into two separate preheated bass and covered for 60 hours and left to run for the weekend unattended. Uh results. Uh one bath of bags came out great. No sign of bacterial growth or off smell.
+
+[11:23] I ate about six ounces and I'm feeling fine, as you should, because it's safe. Um I'm also re-searing and bringing them up to temp uh the good portion of the meat. All the bags from the second bath were puffed to near explosion. I opened one bag and it smelled like death and gym socks. It's a good combo.
+
+[11:38] Uh, pretty close to what my grease trap smells like. Besides the few hundred dollars worth of meat I threw away, the only thing I can take away from this is to turn into a learning experience for myself and my team. So I need help finding out what happened. I know it's hard to figure out if both bass were at a concert temperature since I left them unattended, but both bags were plugged into the same outlet and running when I returned. Although that's no sign of anything because they can turn off and they can turn back on again, like a plug can get unkicked.
+
+[12:00] Uh by the way, in the future, never plug two circulators into the same outlet. It's possible that they'll continue running, and then it's also quite possible that you'll blow a circuit. Like, very possible you blow a circuit because uh even a 20 amp circuit, like I mean, they're not running for the same, they're not running full bore all the time, but you I've more than I've on more than three occasions seen people do that and have circuits blow. Uh, even even on a 20. You just never know, so don't do it.
+
+[12:26] Um, but both bags were plugged into the same outlet and running one hour turn. Here's my thinking. Chicken stock. It's possibly too much age on it being the culprit. Do not think that was the culprit.
+
+[12:35] Uh I kept my vap vac bags very close to my baking area in my kitchen where I use natural starters. This may have caused a reaction from uh reason for microbes to find their way into the bag. I do not think so. Uh one circulator maybe off calibration. This is possible.
+
+[12:47] You should calibrate your circuit uh circulators with ice waters. The very first batch of the new style of circulators had an issue where it was very easy to set the temperature offset incorrectly and have problems. Uh so it could be a possibility, but it's fairly unlikely because I think I know what happened. Uh red wine causing some pickling or fermentation, not the culprit. Uh cross-contamination, also not the culprit.
+
+[13:07] Uh I've heard that blanching the bags at a much higher temperature is a good safety step. I'll try that next time. Help me, help me, please. Love Joel. Uh, you have a couple of problems.
+
+[13:15] One, you put raw miropoix in the bag. Raw miropoi has a lot of air in it, and so unless you suck for a super long amount of time, there was probably a lot of residual air left in the miraclo. As you started cooking, it started heating, the air migrated out of the miracro, creating uh an uh air gap gap in your bag. You probably had a further complication that the bags were very tightly packed together. That's a lot of meat to be putting into two circulators at the same time, right?
+
+[13:39] So if they're packed tightly together and then you get any air, you have two major insulating effects in your bag. As the air puffs up, you're also taking up more space, and it's more difficult for the water to get into the center of the bags. As that happens, if your bags don't get up to bacteria-killing temperature within a couple of hours, you're gonna get lactic acid bacteria growing in the bag. The lactic acid bacteria is gonna create some awful disgusting funky smells and cause the bag to blow and puff, right? Uh and then subsequent cooking will actually probably kill those bacteria over a long period of time because they probably won't survive at those high temperatures.
+
+[14:14] However, it's too late. The meat's already ruined and the bag's already puffed. So you have a couple of things you can do. We have a phone? Oh, we have Patrick.
+
+[14:32] Patrick's going crazy with the I Got the Call. Patrick, come on in here, you crazy, crazy. Harold McGee? Here's Patrick. Our founder.
+
+[14:43] I feel like a com I feel dull-witted in this room right now. Wow. Three of you guys. Wow. Have a seat.
+
+[14:54] So uh there's another mic, Patrick. Why do you sit over here? Climb over. I won't clean, but did I interrupt the show? Poquito, poquito.
+
+[15:02] Okay, so here we go. Uh so uh you can dip them in very hot water, like 85 C simmering water to kill the bacteria on the outside. You can start the cooking in a combi oven and then throw them in to finish. Uh and just don't overcrowd them in general. If you cook the mirapoi, the uh the air cells will get ruptured as the vegetables shrink down, and you also get less puffing from the air, and you can suck a hard vacuum.
+
+[15:21] Don't be afraid, by the way, to salt your ribs before you put them in the bag because they're being cooked for a long time and you don't want a fresh steak texture on them anyhow. And also over reduce your stock, right? Yeah. Yeah. All right, you want to take should we take a quick break so we can come back with maximum Harold McGee?
+
+[15:37] Sure. Quick break. And today's break song is The Hustle by Alan Wilkes, and you are listening to Cooking Issues on Heritage Radio Network.org. Underground Meats is an American producer of handcrafted salami and cured meats in Madison, Wisconsin. They use small farms from southwest Wisconsin to source their meat.
+
+[16:57] The animals are raised on pasture for their entire lives by farmers who care about animal welfare. While Underground Meats uses European traditions, they also use ingredients from the upper Midwest to try to create new types of salamis, experimenting with both ingredients and techniques. The salamis are made using heritage breeds, mostly red wattles, tam warts, berkshires, and mule foots. Try their award-winning cured pork shoulder and goat salami. To learn more and purchase products, visit Shop.underground Food Collective.org.
+
+[17:28] Or stop by their butcher shop in Madison, Wisconsin. And we're back with Cooking Issues Calling your questions too 7184972128. That's 7184972128. So Harold and I were talking about one of your questions, and so we might as well talk about it on the air. Paul writes in on honey and fruit.
+
+[17:42] Hey, Cooking Issues Crew, just sending you a link about using honey water to stop fruit from browning. I thought it was an interesting alternative to ascorbic acid, which is vitamin C different from citric acid. Remember that people. Everyone always makes that mistake. You notice that, Harold?
+
+[17:53] No. Really? You don't make that mistake. But people well, when I'm teaching people, they're always like, I bought the, I bought the citric acid and it didn't work. I'm like, no.
+
+[18:01] It's vitamin C, it's ascorbic acid. Citric acid will prevent browning somewhat by lowering the pH, but not nearly as much as ascorbic acid, which is an actual actual antioxidant. So the video in question uh is by uh Rebecca Marsters on America's Test Kitchen, and it's available even if you don't pay. So you can go look at it. And what she does is she soaks uh slices of uh apple in uh well I don't know what she uses because I don't remember, but uh the paper relevant papers say about a 10% honey solution.
+
+[18:27] So Harold, you want to talk about this for a minute? Uh sure. Uh this came as news to both of us that that honey would do this. Um but uh a couple of things. One of the reasons I think we haven't heard more about honey is that uh the experiment suggested that there were peptides, pieces of proteins that were responsible for this.
+
+[18:47] And the people who wrote the paper in 1990 saying that honey would uh inhibit browning said they were going to follow up on that and find out which peptides were responsible. And it's been radio silence from them ever since. So it never got followed up on. And then there were was a paper in 2000 that did follow up on the honey, but said that they got really variable results depending on which honey they used. Some were good, some were not so good.
+
+[19:12] So I think my guess is if you actually did uh an ascorbic acid, honey side by side, probably ascorbic acid would be more reliable. Right. Well, I I forget which one it was. I read another paper on the various different I mean ascorbic acid is also interesting because it can actually reverse some of the some of the browning after it's already occurred. But they said also some of the honeys, I mean it's really conflicting information.
+
+[19:33] Just to be clear though, the paper from 1990 uh specifies clover honey, right? So like you think clover honey is more likely to work than other types of honey, or no? Yeah, I don't know. Don't know. Hard to say.
+
+[19:45] Good thing for you know, somebody to follow up on. Yeah. Oh, and uh by the way, honey is a and I didn't really, I mean, I've always, you know, like I don't I don't know whether I ascribe, do you ascribe to this whole uh local uh allergen honey de leo or no? Uh I don't know about that one. Where if you if you uh show up on a place and you're gonna have uh seasonal out of allergies in that place, you just pound some honey from that place and it they wipes out your seasonal allergies from the place.
+
+[20:09] I wish I'd known that two weeks ago. But I don't know whether it's true or not, but this is an often held belief, but I have no idea about the efficacy of said thing. But honey is a miracle. Uh honey syrup is an incredible foam forming agent in cocktails uh because of the extra proteins. Uh so we use that in conjunction with um uh some of our milk wash drinks at the at the rest at the bar to uh get really dense heads of foam.
+
+[20:32] Uh-huh. That was Piper's call. Piper came up with that. Are there any concentrated feeding operations for bees where like bees get overused or don't have the room to do what they need to do? Well, I mean, I I don't think that the the bees aren't I mean I wouldn't uh I I wouldn't go crying about you know overcrowding on bees.
+
+[20:48] They kind of that's how they groove, like they on overcrowding and like keeping their temperature up in the winter by being close to each other and buzzing. And also how they kill uh how they kill uh giant uh the giant hornets uh you know by gloming onto them and shaking so hard that they heat them up and kill them. So uh bees don't have the same problems with overcrowding that we do, although they will swarm out of their colony. If if if they're too crowded, they'll swarm. Uh but yes, so if you talk to natural honey producers as I have done, remember that lady who chewed our Eurofstas?
+
+[21:15] Anyway, National Honey Producer. Anyway, my point is that uh like the the big thing that they hate is it is uh feeding them sugar water to tide them over on the winter. That's what uh the honey producers are like I don't feed my bees any sugar water. You know what I mean? Ruins the honey.
+
+[21:31] Anyway, but uh so yeah, I mean, and then the other problems with bees, obviously. I mean, well uh the other problems with bees if you if you like when they're stored too close together, I don't I am not up, I haven't been up on the uh colony collapse uh papers in uh for about probably five years or something like that. But um, you know, they used to think that overcrowding and uh too close a proximity of commercial hives was part of the spread of colony collapse. Do you know anything about modern uh modern colony? Actually, you're mentioning the sugar water uh is interesting because uh the the latest I've heard is that you know it's probably lots of different things, these mites and a virus and crowding and pesticides and all that kind of thing.
+
+[22:09] But one of them is the fact that uh uh it's big become more and more common to feed bees on either sugar water or high fructose corn syrup. Woo! And and what they've found is that honey actually has lots of stuff in it that's good for bee health. And if you deprive them of that and just give them sugar water or high fructose corn syrup, they're gonna get sick. So the the idea is give them enough honey to feed themselves, and maybe things will get better.
+
+[22:38] And no allergies for the bees either. No, nothing, nothing, no problems with that. Hey, did you know I just read this, but I don't know if it's true. Certain linden flowers are irresistible to bees, but toxic to them. No.
+
+[22:48] I gotta research more. That might be crap, but I read it somewhere. But it could be crap because many things that I read are. Here's one that uh you might want to try chime in on. I have a good recommendation for where to go look at it, but uh Joe Blow, which is like kind of the best well, they're Joe Blow67, but it's a good uh it's a good what's it called?
+
+[22:59] It's a tweet, tweeter, tweeter name. Uh uh love the podcast quickie. Why does OJ taste so horrible after I brush my teeth? Well, uh the go to www.bite size with a Y, as in small, like as in bits and bites. Uh bite size science.com, the American Chemical Society, of which Harold is a member and a regular speaker for their things, they have a web series of short videos on science that people might find of interest and they did one on this.
+
+[23:34] And they say that it's the sodium laurel sulfate in toothpaste that uh that A suppresses sweetness and B washes off the phospholipid, so it suppresses sweetness and enhances your ability to taste bitter. You ever uh read anything on that? No. No. Yeah.
+
+[23:48] Interesting. I did read a paper uh by commercial uh commercial tasting thing where people who you know we're apt to brush our teeth in the morning because that's what we do, and they show up to work and they need to taste, and they actually cancel the effect of the toothpaste and get them ready for tasting by pounding several glasses of OJ. So there are some studies on that. But uh I I recommend you uh Joe Blow to BiteSizeScience.com. Interesting little website.
+
+[24:12] All right. Can I interrupt with a question? Sure. Um I'm always hypersensitive about how I eat, uh, you know, because I eat out a lot from my work and my wife's in the food world too. So um I always wonder about the effects of that on my health, and I read Michael Pollins' piece, Germs.
+
+[24:28] And uh I was wondering, I mean, should people who are worried about such things like send their feces to that place in Colorado and and uh have them do studies on it? And is it as important as DNA and all of that? Your is your poop as important as your DNA? Well, they say the microbia that lives in your stomach, you know, and that there's this new budding science. And I was just so interested that he likened that microbia to DNA in terms of importance for its effects on human health.
+
+[24:58] And I was wondering, is that true? I mean, is was that a real seminal piece that people I'm gonna go ahead and toss this one to Harold. I know it's a crazy question, but no, because uh in fact you read more and more about that in in scientific journals these days as well, and that's I think where Michael Pollan got the the lead for this. My my feeling is that we're just beginning to understand how important the the gut microbes are and what to make of them. And at the moment what we kind of know is that people in different states of health have very different communities down there.
+
+[25:36] But uh whether it's possible to change them quickly or over time by changes in diet, or whether changing them more drastically by taking little pills with lots and lots of them is a good idea, we we have no clue. I think we're we're still figuring that out. And also to say that it's as important as DNA, let me put it this way you can, for all intents and purposes, wipe out a good chunk of your uh gut microflora by intensive antibiotic regimes or like super sickness plus antibiotic regimes. I mean, I've gotten like I this it's not microflora, but I you know I I I had a a situation once where I was so cleaned out that I was lactose intolerant for like a week and a half because I had no enzymes left in my body. Uh but fact of the matter is you can re-establish those colonies.
+
+[26:23] If I were to uh supply enough radiation to you to destroy your DNA, very difficult to reconstitute. Very, very, very difficult to reconstitute, right? Yeah, so let's leave DNA at the top of the heap, but maybe microbes are right up there or just underneath. I mean there are there are plenty of things that are completely necessary but not as um critical from an everyday standpoint, right? Yeah.
+
+[26:46] You know? Yeah. We've got a caller Dave. Water, it's right up there with DNA. Hey caller you're on the air.
+
+[26:52] Hi Dave. Hell this is Johnny Kirk from Memphis, Tennessee. How are you doing? Alright, how are you doing? I'm doing good.
+
+[26:59] I was looking for some advice on the addition of moscarpone to cheesecake. I was working with three pounds of cream cheese, uh five pound uh moscarpon, and anywhere from two to three eggs per pound of cheese. And sometimes when I cut through it it it appears broken. Right. Any advice on you know maybe maltidextrin, cornstarch, flour addition and sous vide.
+
+[27:38] Who's umgestion? Yeah well I've never mean it mean like uh when you say sous vide you mean like in a in a CVAP or something like that. I've never put a cheesecake in a bag although I'm sure you could. No reason why you can't I yeah I just bag it and circulate it and for a couple hours you were doing it in the tubes right you were doing it in the tubes no I was well I was just doing it in uh three or four small bags and after um like two and a half hours pull it out and pipe it into the molds. Well, I would imagine mascarpone has a higher water content and the water in it is less bound than it would be in cream cheese, wouldn't you think so, Harold?
+
+[28:19] Yeah. Yeah. And so I would guess that it would be a lot looser under all conditions. I mean, um can you hang mass carpone to just firm it up a little bit? Uh you probably could.
+
+[28:31] I what I don't know is you know how much you'd be left with. You know, would that be an economical thing to do? If it if it only leaks. That's what I was thinking, Tapia. Uh yeah, I mean I wouldn't use I mean, if you're gonna go to Maltodextrin, I mean maltodextrin doesn't supply a lot of thickening power.
+
+[28:52] You might want to go to an actual starch. You know what I mean? Something that's uh has a little more thickening power to it. I mean multi-maltextrin is more of a bulking agent, so that when you dry something back out again, you're gonna have more bulk. I mean, I think that the addition of a starch to it to thicken it up, maybe.
+
+[29:07] I mean, you can up your egg quantity a little bit, which is I think what they do in uh in the Italian cheesecakes that are ricotta based, right? Don't they up the egg content in those things? I think that's right, yeah. Yeah. I mean it's been a long time.
+
+[29:18] Yep. Do you know right show on what they do for that? I don't. I don't, but I mean, like the classic Italian style cheesecakes are using a much looser cheese without all the, you know, they're using ri ricotta-based typically things, which are gonna be they have a grainier texture. I happen to love them.
+
+[29:33] I happen to love those uh those styles of cheesecakes, but um I don't make them myself, but they're typically much grainier, and I would imagine they're bound with a higher egg proportion. I mean, they taste like they're bound with a higher egg proportion. Yeah. So I would up your eggs, I would move to perhaps a starch, one that has a good thickening power, maybe one that doesn't require uh a complete boil to activate, so maybe something like potato that has a lot of swelling, but then it's not gonna hold as much eventually. It might break.
+
+[29:58] I don't know. I'd have to think about the starch that you're gonna use. Um but I would I would definitely add a starch to it. What do you think, Home? Yeah, no, I agree.
+
+[29:59] I also think that it's the kind of thing where you're just not gonna know for sure without trying it. Yeah, I've done uh a few test runs and uh corn starch and AP flaw just looking for any other stark congestion as well. Hey, you can you could you uh could use uh to to get around the problem of the temperature if if you're doing it sous vide, because you might not be functionalizing the starch, you might want to use a uh pre agglomerated, I mean an agglomerated pre uh cooked starch, like uh um not ultra text, but ultra spurse. Yeah, wondra. Wundra could work, that's pre-cooked, but like ultra spurse or something like that.
+
+[30:41] Uh because uh Wondra is still gonna have all of the like it's gonna have a more of a flowery note to it, 'cause it's it's flour, whereas the ultra spurse is gonna be more neutral. And you can pick I think you can pick up ultra spurse from the uh guys at uh uh monitor's pantry. Duck them. Okay. Yeah.
+
+[30:57] But give it a shot, let us know what happens. Uh with uh what's the percentage of ultrasparse? Jeez, I don't know. I think it's a lot depends on how much water you need to bind, right? Because it's the ultra the it's it's the it's uh it's the percentage of ultra spurse compared to the free water that's available in the mass carpone.
+
+[31:13] But I mean I wouldn't guess that you'd probably need to add more than a percent or two, right? I mean 'cause it if it's almost set, right, then you don't need to add that much. I mean a lot depends on how much you need to bind up. You could also just cheat. You could just cheat and set the stuff as a gel.
+
+[31:29] I mean ch cheat. You know what I mean? Like that. Yeah, you know, uh, like use like uh, I don't know, like make a f fluid gel uh or or any sort of gel, have it set up. You know, if you could do uh you could do a you could do like an iota carrageenan or a or a kappa that will melt in the in the thing, you could pipe it while it's hot, it'll set into a gel and you're done.
+
+[31:44] Very light gel. You know what I mean? And especially because there's dairy in there, you could use a very small percentage of carrageenan and have it set up pretty nicely. So you wouldn't use uh carragain and then no ultra sparse, right? I'd probably try one or the other to see how they work and uh see what the texture uh difference is, but might try that.
+
+[32:06] Okay, I appreciate you. All right, good luck. Y'all have a good day. All right, you too. You too.
+
+[32:11] All right, we have a question in from uh Brian regarding mustarda. You like mustarda? You know the uh Italian uh fruit-based kinda? Yeah, I do. Yeah, me too.
+
+[32:19] I haven't had it in a long, long time. Because no one else in my family, uh Jen likes it, my wife, but my kids you know, not big on it. You like that stuff, Sas? I mean the cherries and the pears and that kind of gelatinous uh no man's land, just like floating around. Yeah, yeah, in a sip, we like to call that like a syrup or a jelly, yeah.
+
+[32:36] Yes, yeah. Uh they make one from watermelon rinds that I really like. Um but anyway, uh Brian Rights meant to be eaten, is it? All the you don't eat all the gel, you just eat the fruit and it's I put this stuff on bread with cheese. I just eat the whole guy, the whole damn thing.
+
+[32:51] You, Harold? Yeah, yeah. It's condiment. Yeah, yeah, yeah. There you go.
+
+[32:54] Uh hello, cooking issues team. Hope you guys and gals are staying cool. Uh, we are not. It is hot as hell. Not in the studio, but it's nasty out.
+
+[33:01] Okay. After some research, I discovered that true mustarda does not contain mustard powder or mustard seed, but mustard essential oil, which they call sinape in Italy. Sinape, how do you pronounce that, Stas? Oh, thank thank you, Patrick. With the with the Italian.
+
+[33:14] Uh apparently, this is such strong stuff that only pharmacists in Italy sell it. Uh, or a shola from Studio Kitchen dot blog uh studio kitchen blog does use a rotov app to extract it from mustard oil. Do you have a source for this product or a substitute? What does Cesare or Mark say about this? I didn't have a chance to speak to them.
+
+[33:30] Did you speak to Mark about this? Nope. Thanks, good job. You got only uh whatever. I mean, we missed it.
+
+[33:36] Okay, okay. Uh uh, thanks again for your awesomeness. Brian, okay, so uh mustard essential oil is available on the internet on eBay from uh Neval Company, the company's Neval, N-I-V-A-L, Pure Essential Mustard Oil. Uh it's available on eBay. And also from Essential Depot.com in Florida, but that stuff's expensive.
+
+[33:57] Let me just say that there's two things. If you go to like uh an Indian restaurant uh Indian mart, like or you know, uh like Calustian's here in the city or dual specialty shop in the city, anyone, you can buy stuff called mustard oil. That's pressed pressed mustard oil, and that stuff it can be pungent or can not be pungent. It's all labeled as uh not for human consumption because of you know it contains what is it? It's uh something I have it here on the thing somewhere.
+
+[34:20] I can't remember. Arousic acid, yeah. A fatty acid that causes problems in mice, but apparently not in people, but we haven't gotten around to cultures have been using it for thousands of years internally, and it hasn't seemed to be a problem, but we're worried about it. So can't can't have it. Yeah.
+
+[34:39] But here's the bad news. Mustard oil in uh because I've purchased it. Mustard oil uh in Indian uh stores, or I guess Korean, uh I guess they use it in Korea as well. Um Bangladesh, a bunch of other places. Uh it's just not that strong.
+
+[34:55] It's just not, I mean, it's got some sort of mustard thing to it, but I once had a pure vial of the mustard essential oil that was given to me uh by a Japanese gent, and that stuff is ridiculous. Like two drops in like in in in like your mashed potatoes, and they're like completely mustarded up. You know what I mean? It's like it's like this stuff's crazy because it's it's uh distilled, but not distilled like rotovap style with a bunch of water left over, like distilled the oil floats up to the top. You take the supernatant on the top of the stuff, and that's your mustard essential oil, and it's almost uh it's it's some it's some like I don't know, isothytocyanate, some sort of allium sulfur derived thing of a jig.
+
+[35:35] So it distills quite well, uh, probably the same way that horseradish does, which distills like a demon. Uh but um yeah, uh I would recommend the stuff's really expensive, but it goes a long way. Buy it. I would buy it. I'm thinking now of buying it.
+
+[35:49] I don't know whether this one's any good. Have you ever bought it, Harold? No, no, I haven't. Yeah, I mean, people swear on Amazon, the best you're gonna get, because I look for a while, is mustard oil, like pressed mustard oil, not mustard essential oil. Right?
+
+[36:01] It's not the same. You have to like dump a whole boatload of that into your mustarda to uh what's your favorite kind of mustarda? You like them all? Uh I I think actually the pear, with you know, the the grit goes really nicely with the with the heat. Yeah, I think nice with the with a nice pecorino.
+
+[36:24] Yeah. Doesn't Mark say that Golden's is the best mustard ever made? I think he just said that today, yeah. Really? For real?
+
+[36:30] Did you just make that up? No, it's in my book. Uh and uh uh Marion Cunningham, who was James Beard's assistant, said that uh Hellman's is the best mayo. Why would you ever make a mayo? Nothing could ever taste better than almonds.
+
+[36:42] So it's a thing that it was uh the essay was don't make ketchup. Unless it's really better than Heinz. If it's not better than Heinz, just also serve Heinz. Well, uh anyone who's listened to the backlog here knows that Nastasha doesn't care about different brands of ketchup, which is one of the my main gripes with her, is that she doesn't see that there is possibly a difference between different brands of ketchup. And I haven't tried the new fancy stuff yet from Portland.
+
+[37:06] The fancy ketchup from Portland. However, uh Heinz, it makes a delicious ketchup. Let's just be clear on that. That in what's your opinion on Heinz ketchup? It's delicious, but there's uh somebody in San Francisco who makes a nice one too, June Taylor.
+
+[37:20] Yeah? Yeah. June June makes a nice ketchup. Yeah, yeah. It it's different.
+
+[37:24] You wouldn't mistake it for Heinz, but it's delicious. Is it ketchup in like the 1820s sense of mustard, I mean uh uh not mustard uh uh mushroom based uh ketchup or no, no, it's tomato ketchup. Tomato based, but with with more of the spices showing. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[37:39] You know, you know what I'm about to get myself in trouble for? Because I always bust Nastasha for stuff that she doesn't like. But you know what I actually uh it's not that I don't like it, but I'm not a huge fan of, or I don't care about it. Here's something I don't care about. I don't care that much about the nuances of different barbecue sauces.
+
+[37:55] I don't. I mean, I I see that there are differences, uh huh, but to me they're all fundamentally ketchup molasses and and like vinegar and sugar and stuff, right? Yeah. Am I wrong about this? No, I'd I'd agree with you.
+
+[38:09] Yeah. I care more about the base ketchup. Uh-huh. In the barbecue sauce. Yeah.
+
+[38:14] Although uh Paul Prudholm has an excellent recipe from the mid-1980s that uses a lot of ground up nuts in a barbecue sauce, it is pretty good. Ground up nuts. Yeah, really good, actually. Huh. Yeah, pretty good.
+
+[38:25] What kind of nuts? Uh, I don't remember because uh my mom used to make it all the time back in the day. I'm gonna say it was uh cons, I guess. Probably. Yeah, although he probably subbed out for Northerners when he was right.
+
+[38:36] This is back when Paul Prudholm had uh had just recently opened K-palls in in Louisiana, and he was still famous for sticking really red hot uh peppers into uh into uh liquor and calling them Cajun martinis, and back before everyone had you know blackened this, that and everything, he came out with a cookbook early on that I think was pretty influential. Uh huh. Yeah, my mom used to cook at it all the time. So I have to admit, but you know, whatever. Uh speaking of old school, Christopher Milt writes in, because I guess because of the Sears all torch that I'm working on, and wants to know uh if we've watched the old uh Julia Child episode where she goes on uh David Letterman and they don't have equipment that works, and so she has to she was gonna make a hamburger and melt the cheese with a torch, which the Sears all is great at, by the way.
+
+[39:21] Uh and instead has to make beef tartare, and David Letterman is being vicious to her the whole time. Have you seen this? No, but he's always vicious to the chefs. Yeah, I mean, but Julia Child, I mean, like this is 1987, so she was probably what in her 70s, late 70s? Yeah, yeah.
+
+[39:35] Yeah. And uh he's just like ripping her up and down, and she's like taking it completely as a good sport and is every bit as quick on her feet as uh Letterman is. She's like uh it's gonna wanna it's uh I kind of wish that I had met her. Uh you may you met her a couple times, right? Yeah, I did.
+
+[39:51] I did. And and had dinner with her once and felt after and this was when she was in her eighties. Uh and afterwards felt just totally inadequate because she had read, you know, ten books I hadn't read and seen ten movies that I hadn't seen, and I just couldn't keep up. She was an amazing woman. Yeah, and uh a spy during World War II.
+
+[40:12] Yeah. Interesting, interesting character. I haven't seen that movie based on it. Well, I haven't seen the movie. I don't I don't know.
+
+[40:17] Anyway. Uh Jay Matthew Miller writes in about Aroncello. Do you like Arncello? I'm not a big limoncello fan. Do you like Limoncello or orange?
+
+[40:24] Orancello being the orange-based uh variant of it? Every once in a while. It's it's sweet, and uh to my problem with it limoncello, and again I'm gonna get in trouble now. Now what is this? Is the episode where it's like well, it's it's a little bit sometimes detergent from my taste.
+
+[40:38] Anyway. They make orangello in Italy. I mean, the the with using their red oranges or blood red oranges or something? I don't know. I haven't had it over there.
+
+[40:45] I've only been to the north of Italy. They don't play that game. Yeah, they do. Uh yeah, I've I haven't been south of Rome, much to my much to my chagrin. Okay.
+
+[40:53] I've made some uh calamondan, which you might out there also know as calamansi, uh, which is sold mostly green, but is in fact orange when it ripens. Okay. I've made some calamondan orancello from calamondan peels. Um of course you didn't, because what else would you make it from? Uh grown in my yard.
+
+[41:07] I soak the peels, uh, the fruit have almost no p pith. In 190 proof ever clear for seven days, then mixed with equal parts one to one simple syrup. Uh uh, see, that's sweet. That's some sweet. The resulting product is pretty good, but a little bit stiff by itself.
+
+[41:21] Next time I'll probably add more water. Anyway, I've been storing it in some mason jars, and I get a dark orange ring where the surface of the liquid meets the glass of the mason jar just around the edge. It is really tiny but noticeable. What's going on here? Is this excess citrus oil?
+
+[41:34] Yes. Uh what can I do to prevent this from happening? Nah. On my next batch, my tree produces three times a year. I want to make enough to give his gifts, but the ring around the mason jar makes the end product less appealing.
+
+[41:45] Thanks for your help. Jay Matthew Miller. Yep, that's the oil coming out when you're diluting it, because you can uh absorb more of that stuff into alcohol than you can into water. And that's it, right, Harold? I mean, that's that's what it is.
+
+[41:56] Yeah, and thanks to all the sweetness, the density of the liquid is pretty high, and the oil is that much lighter, and so it's gonna pop up to the surface. Good call. So maybe making it a little less sweet, you could get around it. That's it, yeah. That's a good I see.
+
+[42:09] Again, I hadn't thought of that. Here's the things I thought of. Don't go and try to buy brominated vegetable oil, which is what everyone used to use back in the day to keep citrus oils in suspension and things like sodas. See what happens is they add bromine to vegetable oil. It's extreme exceedingly heavy.
+
+[42:23] It gets in close contact with the citrus oil, and the average of the uh makes them kind of float around and makes it cloudy. And that's how they made things like uh sunkist uh soda uh you know work. Uh you're not they don't use it anymore uh much. They use something that you also can't buy, which is uh sucrose diacetate uh hexoisobutyrate uh S A I B, which is a sucroester derivative, but also probably can't buy that. Here's what I suggest you do.
+
+[42:49] Uh either reduce the sweetness, um, try that. Also, put it get one of those old school, like uh who makes them Lipton sun tea things, one of those giant iced tea coolers that has a spigot at the bottom. Uh put your product into it, your entire batch. Let it sit for a week and a half or more after you've diluted it. The ring will form around the top, then drain it from the bottom.
+
+[43:13] Right? Brilliant. Brilliant. Yeah, yeah. See, Harold's thinking about it from an actual kind of thinking standpoint.
+
+[43:19] I'm just thinking the mechanics of what to get around it. That's that's therein lies the difference. Uh okay. Now we have a question in uh from Will about sours, uh, whiskey sours, and uh zucchini. Word to Dave, Nastasha, Jack Joe, and the new guy in the booth.
+
+[43:35] I guess that's you, Eddie. How do you? That's Eddie. Yep. Uh I've got two questions I'm hoping you can help me with.
+
+[43:39] The first is a cocktail problem. I want to pre-batch whiskey sours for the 4th of July. I like mine with egg whites, and I make designs on the phone with various bitters and eyedropper bottles and a chopstick. I use simple syrup that has gum arabic for a better mouthfeel and a strong rye for a better flavor. What I want to do is pre-mix and dilute the sour and then run in a blender with dry ice to chill for service and top of an egg white foam, decorate, and serve.
+
+[43:59] I've got a whisk that goes into a power drill for stick mixer-like effects, egg white, santhangum, uh gum arabic and nox gelatin, etc. How can I get a good foam without an ISI? I have not yet incorporated gelatin, but my efforts up to now have resulted in a foam that is too stiff to decorate well with bitters and tends to break when added to the sour. I've seen many people online suggesting that cocktail foam should be its own fully realized beverage. I mean, yeah, I don't know about that.
+
+[44:21] That uh compliments the underlying drink. That's true. In normal sours, the foam is essentially fully flavored by the drink, modified by the approximately half teaspoon of various bitters I decorate with. Do you have any suggestions on a direction to take the flavors for this foam? Looking for a direction to take my generally very tasty experimentation.
+
+[44:36] Let's hit that before we go into the next thing. One, be very careful blending dry ice into something with a blender because if you serve any chunks of dry ice to someone that they ingest, it can be extremely detrimental. That's one. Two, when you blend dry ice into a product, you will get a very light pétillon carbonation in there. And you have to make sure that that's not going to hurt the flavor of your whiskey sour.
+
+[45:01] That's two. So I, in general, I am somewhat loath to chill with uh dry ice in blenders, although I've seen plenty of people do it, but uh it just makes me very nervous uh and I'm not in. What are your thoughts on that, Harold? Um I have no experience with it, and uh, but I take your point. Yeah.
+
+[45:22] Um yeah. The other thing is remember, as you say, a normal cocktail, okay. So a normal cocktail with egg white in it, the thickening effect of the egg white is manifest uh most visually by a foam on the surface. However, the body of the entire drink is changed by the protein addition. So, you're not gonna have the same drink by blending with dry.
+
+[45:44] What you mean what you're going to be doing is making a slushy and then putting a foam on top, which could be delicious, by the way. I mean, I would use liquid nitrogen instead and just get it slushed out. Because, but but drinks that are slushy are so freaking cold that they're actually somewhat painful. Whiskey flavored drinks actually taste best when they're not so cold that they're slushed out, in my experience. Right?
+
+[46:08] You want them just when they start going clear after you've chilled in liquid nitrogen is when they start being good again. Otherwise, like uh they don't end up being balanced and anything too much more than slushy in it. It's literally painful. It's so cold. Uh, in terms of foams to put on the top, you know, um methylcel F50 makes a nice foam, but it's still pretty uh dense.
+
+[46:28] Um I have to think more about this. Uh you might it might end up being shorter for you just to just to shake the dang things, like pre-blend some egg whites and just shake it. I understand how you're trying to do something different here. I don't know what do you think, Harold? Any any feelings on the foam?
+
+[46:42] I mean, I know that should be my kind of uh uh of a of a thing. I mean, you could use ISI uh and then do like a really like a like a lighter, a lighter foam, but I mean the egg white foams are also somewhat fugitive, which is nice. And most of the foams that are made aren't they either have a very large bubble size or they're not so fugitive, but try methylcel F50 or VersaWhip under a percent. They make a really nice foam that's quite stable, and you could probably make a slushy and then literally spatula of the foam in, strike it off the top, and then uh draw a design in it. What has Piper been using recently?
+
+[47:16] Remember? I don't know. He's been making some foams recently for cocktails. He makes he he actually literally whipped egg whites, I think, and put it on top. Could do that too.
+
+[47:25] Whipped egg whites. You could take egg white powder, hydrate it with some flavors, uh, and then whip it. Uh not with alcohol though, but like whip it and then and then strike it off the top and draw with the bitters, right? That would work, right, Harold? Yeah.
+
+[47:39] Yeah. Uh second question is about grilling vegetables. I enjoy really well caramelized zucchini or brown zucchini, I guess. Unless it's well, no, probably some sugar and zucchini. Yeah.
+
+[47:48] Yeah. Yeah. Both. Both. Uh most people would say uh bordering on burnt.
+
+[47:52] The flavor that develops with a good garlic marinade and that mesquite smoke and the vegetable flavors is out of this world. Unfortunately, they end up very delicious but a bit mushy. I'm wondering if some type of calcium slash pectin treatment might help here. I'm cooling uh with a raging grill, uh, cooking with a raging grill and the coals right up under the food. It's charred to my satisfaction about two minutes if that helps.
+
+[48:10] Thanks very much for your great work. Looking forward to the Mofad puffer. Uh I don't think that I don't think you need to firm it, right? I think it's more of a water problem, right? That's what the mush is.
+
+[48:20] I would I would pardehydrate the stuff. What do you think, Harold? Uh that and maybe just chill it. You know, put put them in ice water so that when they go onto the grill, they're really cold, and so the inside will just take that much longer to heat up. Oh, so you think he wants to keep it.
+
+[48:36] See, I was thinking Monet more chewy than I mean, zucchini has too much freaking water in it, in my opinion. Yeah. I don't really mean I have issues with it. Because it's got so much water in it. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[48:46] And if you're gonna char the outside in two minutes, there's no way to get the water out of the inside. Right? So you you have two choices. Either try to keep it raw on the inside or try to get rid of the water beforehand. Yeah.
+
+[48:58] Or I mean, look, you could try a calcium bath that will firm it up a little bit, but that'll make it bitier, but it won't won't change the fact that moisture is gonna migrate from the inside of the zucchini to the outside of the zucchini and ruin your crust. Well, except that's not what he's saying, right? He's saying that the crust is fine, it's just the inside's a little mushy. So uh I think maybe uh the first thing I would try, because it's very simple, is just put put the zucchini in ice water for uh half an hour before they go on the grill, see if that takes care of it. If it doesn't, then take more drastic actions.
+
+[49:34] But if it's just you know the matter of uh preventing the inside from getting quite so hot, that should take care of it. Right. Hey, what do you think about for dehydration? Do the paper towels microwave thing. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[49:49] Or or you know, I I don't know how how exactly he's presenting them, but you know, you could also cut them into slices and salt them. Uh all kinds of things. Like you do with eggplant. Yeah, yeah. Anything you would do for eggplant to get rid of moisture, you could probably do to zucchini to get rid of moisture, right?
+
+[50:07] Yeah. Okay. Adam writes in, here's a good one for you. Did you read this one yet? Adam writes in, dear Nastasha, Jack and Joe.
+
+[50:13] My question is for Dave uh and for Harold. Little did you know. Uh, what do you make of the recipe for fermented juice of mushrooms and oats in the Favican cookbook? If you haven't seen it, which I have not, the basic idea is steam salted mushrooms and grain. After cooling, combine with sourdough, uh sourdough starter overnight, seal in a jar for six months.
+
+[50:29] When you open it up, it should have a fleeting odor of peaches. That's the cookbook prose right there. Uh the fresh juice doesn't last long, so Nilson, Magnus Nelson, recommends allowing it to turn to vinegar or pasteurizing it. He describes the pasteurized product as being like soy sauce. He also stresses that anyone who attempts a recipe should not eat it until it's been analyzed by a lab to determine whether or not it is edible.
+
+[50:47] The procedure is somewhat similar to the mixed yeast bacteria fermentations of the Chinese yeast ball that McGee likes. Here you are, right here to talk about it. But I've never read such uh about such a long sourdough fermentation or one that isn't cooked afterwards. It's strange. Just what is happening and what's your opinion on the food safety?
+
+[51:01] Thanks for the thought. Well, I I looked into Sandor Katz's uh book. I mean, I think correct me when I'm wrong, I'm gonna let you just take this for a minute. But the sourdough thing is just to kickstart the fermentation to get the pH low enough so that botulism doesn't grow first, right? Isn't that what the deal is?
+
+[51:14] And after that it's gonna just gonna take over on whatever it wants to do. Yeah, and the part of it that I don't understand is why do you have to seal it? I mean, because that would uh you know remove the issue of bot botulism bacteria anyway. Well, I mean look, so the recipes for fermented mushrooms that I could get were they were all pushed under the water to encourage anaerobic stuff after the pH is dropped, right? I mean lactic acid stuff.
+
+[51:44] Yeah. Yeah. Um sauerkraut kimchi style. Right, but then why do you have to seal it? Yeah, yeah.
+
+[51:52] And and have it out of view. I mean, why not do it like uh like a sauerkraut fermentation where you can kind of check on it, see how it's going, whether you've kept everything submerged or not, that kind of thing. Uh also I I would I don't think I would ever myself want to make a dish that I had to have a lab check before I could eat it. I mean, that just sounds like legal ease. I mean, if you check the pH before you start the fermentation, then it should be everything should be copacetic.
+
+[52:20] If it's acid enough, you won't have botulism. Yeah, acid and salt, I I imagine there's salt in there as well. Yeah, but I mean again I'd have to know the levels, but I mean, but if it's tart enough, the botulism's not gonna I mean, like that's essentially how pickles work. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[52:37] You know what I mean? Non-acidified mushrooms are dangerous to to keep for long periods of time in the absence of oxygen. Yeah. Yeah. That much we know.
+
+[52:47] That's the classic thing to kill yourself with. Poorly canned uh non-acidified mushrooms. That's right. That's right. Right?
+
+[52:54] Yeah. All right. Uh really quickly. Andy writes in about ikijime and Botarga. Uh hey, Nastasha, I have a couple questions for you, Dave, and the cooking issues crew.
+
+[53:05] I wrote in a year and a half ago about ikojime spinal cord destruction, which is where you but for those of you who don't know, uh, you take fish, especially like pelagic fish, fish that swim around a lot, and when you kill them, you can increase the quality of their flesh by shoving a needle through the spinal cord to uh disrupt it. And the theory being that you you by by destroying the spinal cord, you're preventing any sort of electrical messages from going to the muscles that happen regardless of whether the brain is still present, therefore uh increasing uh the amount of ATP that remains in the muscles because it's not being used uh to respond to these errant electrical signals, and that therefore it takes longer to go into rigor mortis, and when it goes into a less strong rigor mortis, and when it comes out the flesh is firmer and better. That's in a nutshell the theory of what's going on. Okay. Uh so he tested it for us.
+
+[53:48] Um and I had always been interested why people don't do it on bluefish, and it's because uh I don't think in Japan they eat much blue fish, even though I think it's a delicious fish. Are you a blue fish fan? I love bluefish. Delicious, right? Yeah.
+
+[53:59] Uh okay. Uh I wrote about uh a Nikajime spinal cord destruction test on bluefish in Alabama. I'm heading back to Alabama next week, and we'll be trying the test again, likely on a wider range of fish as well. After my trip last year, I read somewhere that one should only use iced salt water or seawater as opposed to fresh. I was using fresh frotter from the rinsing hose at the end of the pier, and the results will c were clearly still far superior to non-uh ikijime uh EKGMA spinal cord destruction.
+
+[54:23] Any thoughts on this? I will be, of course, trying it, but I may not have the capability to do a side-by-side of salt versus fresh. Any other suggestions for tests that I could run while I'm down here? Well, the reason for salt is so that the the heart keeps pumping and that you're not putting it into shock right away so that you can keep that going. And also uh you want to keep it relatively isotonic with the fish.
+
+[54:41] So salt water is obviously the best call, but I don't really know what the effect will be. Do you have any idea? Yeah. Um I don't have any suggestions right now for other tests you should run, but please just let us know what all of your tests are because this stuff's fascinating me. And I want to know how good bluefish is after it comes out of it.
+
+[54:59] Because blue fish, everyone says it doesn't keep, but if you were to do spinal cord destruction but don't fillet it now so that the oils aren't exposed to the oxygen, could it become a fish that keeps longer? Uh-huh. I don't know. Uh my second question is about botarga, which you know is salted uh cured roe, typically from uh mullet, and what's the other one? The one that uh the what's the other one they make but target?
+
+[55:18] Oh, tuna in the Mediterranean. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Okay. Uh in Alabama we often go uh cast netting for mullet. I'm quite interested in making my own botarga.
+
+[55:25] It's really expensive here. Really freaking expensive here. Uh Nastasha does not like botargo. Nope. Yeah.
+
+[55:33] Uh not sure if this is the right season, but I had a couple questions anyway. Uh there seems to be a fair number of recipes and techniques out there, and this seemed perhaps the best. Soak the row overnight in salt water solution, 10 grams of salt per one liter of water. By the way, the soaking is there just to leach out the blood and any sort of other strong flavors that are there. I don't think that's actually a cure step.
+
+[55:50] Yeah, and that's just what uh one percent? That's less than a tenth of a percent, right? Uh no, yeah, 10 grams per one liter, one percent. That's roughly isotonic, right? It's just to not ruin it, not blow the eggs up, but soak the stuff and get it out.
+
+[56:03] You don't want to soak it in pure water because then you'll you might blow the eggs up because of osmotic pressure. Yeah. Uh remove the solution and pat dry on paper towels, all good. Lay out fresh paper towel on a tray, liberally sprinkle with salt, okay. Place row on top and cover with more salt.
+
+[56:14] So far, so good. Uh place this in the fridge, replace the paper towels daily, add more salt, right? So the cure is taking place at low temperature. Uh after three or four days, the rows will have firmed up. Use a skewer to poke a hole and tie them with butcher's twine a long loop.
+
+[56:30] Hang the row in a cool place to dry for 10 to 14 days or longer if desired. This seems like a good technique, but I wonder if there are other better ways. I would put them uh I would put them in a curing chamber, but of course I won't have it in Alabama. I also wonder if cool, dry place would cause uh case hardening. My thought is to salt them for a few days in the fridge and put them on a rack or hang them outside in the sun to dry them dry them.
+
+[56:48] The air would be humid and hot and most likely breezy with enough salt. I'm not that worried about contamination, but should I be? Then I could take them home and put them in my curing chamber for longer drying and eventually backpack them for storage in the fridge. I would dip them in wax, that's the traditional way, not to backpack them, although backpacking will work. But dipping in wax is the traditional way.
+
+[57:04] Yeah. And pretty cool. Uh any thoughts would be appreciated. Okay, Andy, uh, I got a treat for you. Uh it's not Alabama, it's Florida.
+
+[57:11] But if you go to the Department of Food Science and Human Nutrition, or simply type this into your uh browser. Solar drying of seafood products, coal and mullet row. They did a bunch of experiments uh literally on the open-air drying of mullet row to make botarga in the 70s in Florida, which is fairly similar to Alabama, and you can look at it. And your main problem is actually not going to be case hardening, although they do mention it, I think, in the paper. Your main problem is going to be that unless it's fairly covered, you see you need to increase the the the temperature of the mullet row needs to go above uh atmospheric temperature because it's humid as hell.
+
+[57:46] As soon as it goes above atmospheric temperature, which it will from the sun hitting it, right? Uh it will uh start getting water off. And so it doesn't matter how humid it is, as long as it's hotter than the outside environment, because then the vapor pressure is gonna be the however, uh it got so freaking hot. By the way, they used a word that I hadn't I didn't know. Insulation, meaning how much sun hits.
+
+[58:05] Not insulation, insulation, which is awesome. Uh but uh the mullet road that they were testing uh that had uh like a plastic covering like greenhouse that let the uh sun hit it but had screens all around it so air could waft through, 150 Fahrenheit that stuff got up to. Hot enough to cook your huevos. Uh but uh anyway, so go read that paper, and that should give you some good uh suggestions. Now, before they rip my microphone away from me and kick me off the air, since Harold McGee is here, I want to talk about Clostridium perfringens and Rachel Dutton and these papers with salt risen bread that I promised I would talk about before.
+
+[58:40] Uh so you want to give us a little uh little clue in there? Whoo. Uh why don't you get us started? Because that was a few weeks ago, and it's not in the front of my head. So here's what happened.
+
+[58:51] A number of years ago, uh on the radio show, someone asked me about salt risen bread, and I had never done it before, so I I made some as a test. Uh and salt risen bread is a an interesting, uh interesting because it's bacterially uh raised product, and in fact, it's raised with an anaerobic bacteria, Clostridium perfring, which is a um a pathogen, right? Uh and in fact, certain strains of it do really nasty things like cause gas gangrene, which was a big problem in world in the World War One. I guess and probably even after, but that's when it first became a big deal, right? Yeah.
+
+[59:25] So uh anyway, so I made it and the bread had a very distinctive taste to it that I I remembered. Went to Africa uh and tasted a cassava uh like a like a dumpling that was made from cassava. Cassava, as you may or may not know, is redded, so it's soaked for a long period and allowed to, and that's to get rid of uh toxins in it, right? But it also goes through some sort of fermentation and picks up um characteristic flavor. And when I tasted this, I said, Oh, that tastes like salt risen bread.
+
+[59:56] I wonder whether it's clusterdium uh pulsiterium, clustering porfing, same thing. And uh so Harold and I were hanging out at what was that, the World Science Universe or whatever it's called? That's right. World World Science Festival. Festival, yeah, festival.
+
+[1:00:08] And uh met up with Rachel Dutton, who is uh uh a microbiologist at Harvard studying various fermentation things. What's her actual field? What's she what does she do for a living besides help chefs with that thing? Uh well she she has a uh five-year postdoctoral fellowship essentially to kind of open up this whole subject to to academic study, which it really hasn't been open to before. Nice.
+
+[1:00:30] Yeah, I like that. Yeah. Uh who's paying for that? Uh I forget who who the fellowship is from. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[1:00:37] I mean, because the pro the problem is is that usually work only gets done in food when there's money behind it, which is why most food scientists suck so hard. Right. Yes. Yeah. So so well, the avenue she's taking is to uh uh study cheeses in particular, but other fermented foods as model systems for understanding um uh microbial ecosystems because these things generally, cheeses, for example, you know, each cheese has a different set of microbes that ripens it and it it tends to be four or five and it's relatively stable, and so understanding how all that works uh she feels will help us understand microbial life in general, and that's the the uh proposal that that got funded.
+
+[1:01:22] That's a good sale. Yeah. I like that. Yeah. Strong.
+
+[1:01:24] Uh strong. So anyway, so she found an article showing that in fact cassava redding does indeed involve a uh Clostridium, not porfringens, uh, but um one that produces butyric acid. I mean I I can't pronounce butyrins, whatever it is. Clostridium right, yeah. Butyri something or other.
+
+[1:01:43] But anyway, it's there, so it turns out that you know this is in fact like half of how I ever accomplish anything is that I taste something different, I put it away in my memory bank, and then like years later it like something comes up. Is that how you work as well? Yeah. Yeah. That's right.
+
+[1:01:58] Um and then Harold because then I said well I wonder whether or not the Clostridium in salt risen bread is in fact not perfingize. I wonder whether it's this other one as well. And Harold found and emailed me possibly the best article uh I've ever read in my life. And I don't have it here unfortunately but it didn't get pasted into my thing but it is um from nineteen twenty three and you want to like I this most isn't that one like one of the coolest articles you ever read? It is it is they they made salt risen bread from a traditional starter standpoint and then they also made salt risen bread from uh a culture they had taken off of an injured gas gangrene patient in World War One.
+
+[1:02:41] So like some poor some poor fella who you know in the trench got hit with something developed gas gangrene which they isolated that strain and he baked bread with it. Yeah. And then ate it presumably because he said that you know he described the crumb texture and oh it's good you know kind of I think he ate it. And then then then took the bread and recultured the bacteria from the bread to prove that the spores had not because it remember folks, clostridium is spore forming. And was in fact able to culture it and inject it into guinea pigs and notice that the salt risen bread Clostridium was active but not as virulent as the one that was developed from the gas gangrene patient.
+
+[1:03:22] So it is it's fan fantastic stuff. And then specifically said it wasn't this other one because it had a different kind of fermentation. Fantastic paper. Yeah, yeah. Something you could never do today, right?
+
+[1:03:35] No, walk up and just inject that in the guinea pigs and eat eat like baked bread with uh baked bread with gas gangrene stuff. No. No. That's pretty cool, right? It was amazing.
+
+[1:03:45] Yeah. Yeah, good paper. Uh and anyway, so but then uh later work um later work, including someone who has a she has a salt risen uh bread uh uh blog, Susan Brown, they did some paper where there's been never been a case. They don't really, I think in the recent research, prove that it can't cause disease. They just show there has never been a case of disease from Clostridium perfringes and salt risen bread.
+
+[1:04:07] But what do you think about are they can would you have concerns making that in your kitchen? No, no, I've done it a couple of times and and now I'm gonna do it again because you've you know raised this whole thing uh uh for me again. But it it is fascinating for exactly that reason. You take uh foodstuffs, I mean uh milk and cornmeal and things like that, and uh kind of intentionally let it rot, right, for a day, and then make bread with that. And uh you do end up with this really interesting s some people in my own family found it off-putting, but I found it really interesting flavor.
+
+[1:04:44] Yeah, I like it. And and it rises. It's um Yeah. Well, redding is a very interesting. So redding you do it for cassava.
+
+[1:04:51] By the way, redding, literally, you just take the stuff and you throw it in a big vat of water and you let it sit for a couple of days. And in West Africa, it doesn't take very long for it to do its thing because it's hot as hell. Uh but you know what Harold has for now for several years been telling you about retted amaranth stalks. Yeah, yeah, which is how you make um stinky tofu in China. You you let vegetable kind of waste vegetable materials.
+
+[1:05:16] You or amaranth leaves are delicious, but the stalks are so tough that they're inedible. You throw them in water and just water, no salt, so you're not doing a lactic acid fermentation, and other things take over, and you end up with something that's really stinky. Uh, and then you can either serve that or you can put tofu in that same vat of stuff for a few days until it soaks up those flavors, and that's how you get stinky tofu. Has the microbiology of that been studied yet? Not to my knowledge, not in you know, English accessible materials.
+
+[1:05:50] Well, more work to do. Harold, thanks so much for coming on the air. We love having you. Anytime you're in New York, please come by and see us. Cooking issues.
+
+[1:05:58] Oh, wait, by the way, thank you for the bacon, Matt and the bacon band-aids, whoever you are. Cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio.
+
+[1:06:28] You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] This is Chris Young, co-author of Modernist Cuisine. I'd like to invite you to check out Chefsteps.com. It's a free website we've created as a place to learn new cooking techniques and collaborate with curious cooks from around the world. Sign up now at Chefsteps.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn.
+
+[0:21] If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Cooking issues. Cooking issues. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cookie Is Cookie Live from Nicolas, Florida, where I'm down here in Florida for my Uncle Luke's 100th birthday party.
+
+[1:15] How you guys all doing over there? Who I got in the studio with me today? Uh Peter and Astasia. Hey Sas, how you doing? Okay, how are you?
+
+[1:24] Alright, what'd you do? Uh we went to the beach. Yeah, which beach? Um, Westport yesterday. I mean Sunday.
+
+[1:33] Westport, Connecticut? Yeah. Westport, Connecticut. People actually go to Westport, Connecticut for vacation? It was just a day trip on Sunday.
+
+[1:42] Mm-hmm. Yeah, yeah. Well, uh I've been down here uh waiting for Montalope to turn 100, which we did today, right after the radio show. I'm going over there for his uh actual party. Uh Peter's here.
+
+[1:56] What'd you say? Peter's here. What's up, Dave? Hey Peter, how you doing? Yeah?
+
+[1:59] How much can you hear the weed whacker going on in the background? Zero. Oh, nice. The uh crazy burnouts that run this joint that I'm at in the comis uh can't seem to get the internet working, but they do have a weed whacker, a nice gas powered weed whack. So, uh Peter, why don't we talk about the state of the MoFad Kickstarter before we get into questions?
+
+[2:19] So, those of you that don't know and are listening to this, MoFAD, the Museum of Food and Drink, has a Kickstarter up now called Boom, where we're trying to get our puffing gun. Puffing gun is the old way they used to make puff cereals by heating uh grains uh up to uh well not tremendous, but high pressures and temperatures, about 180 psi. Then releasing that pressure suddenly and having all the moisture inside instantly evaporate and bang, puff the cere puff the grains very uniformly. But apparently it works on things other than grains that we're gonna try out things like penta chips, things like uh pepper corns. Um anyway, we have a Kickstarter going to try and raise the funds in a crowdsourced manner to uh go about an actual exhibit that we can travel around with.
+
+[3:02] Uh the Kickstarter now, we need about 80 grand to do it, and uh right now we're about 34 grand. So, what I need everyone to do is not just because I know a lot of our listeners have already donated, but I need uh people to go and find their friends and relatives and other people, uh like mind individuals, to come on the Kickstarter and back it. And it's not just to give away your money and you get nothing. We're talking awesome t shirts, awesome tote bags, uh parties. I mean, if you have a lot of cash jangling around in your pocket, uh, we'll make a custom cereal for you.
+
+[3:35] But the idea here is that um we want to crowdsource this to show that we have a broad level of support. So it's very important that you go and you find people to go and back us if they just want a t-shirt or anything else but uh that's my feeling about it. We have about ten days left on the Kickstarter so we need to get into high gear now after the holidays are over. Peter, what are your thoughts on it? Peter by the way Peter Kim is the uh executive director of the Museum of Food and Drink, uh the the leader uh of the project I guess.
+
+[4:07] So Peter go ahead. Yeah so first of all if you want to check out our Kickstarter you can go to boom.mofad.org. That's B O O O M dot Mofadmo F A D dot org. Uh yeah I think Dave really you did a great job encapsulating it. I mean we're really excited about this Kickstarter.
+
+[4:24] It's not just about kickstarting uh one exhibit but it's actually about kickstarting the whole museum. You know the plan for Mofad right now is to challenge the traditional museum model and actually create a mobile pop-up museum uh and this will be our first exhibit and so you know as Dave said what we're trying to do is drum up a lot of public support and I think this will open up a lot of doors for us and help us get you know propel us towards our ultimate goal of opening up a brick and mortar museum filled with exhibits like this. So we really, really need your help. I mean this is like a it's hard to overstate this but it's a labor of love. We have a lot of volunteers working on this.
+
+[5:01] Uh I was working until like 3 a.m last night woke up at five this morning got right back up to work on it. Um we're pushing hard on this because we believe in this uh we really think it's the time is right to create a food museum that you know encourages people and inspires people to think a lot about uh you know the the choices that they make and and how uh how food connects to the world around us. Right. Let me stress most museums, but most museums start, right? They start with uh one of two things either a large collection or a very rich person, right?
+
+[5:34] Very few museums are trying to start uh the way we're trying to start, which is as an idea, uh you know, and then getting the funding from uh a broad range of support that wasn't already present. And so that's why I think it's very important that everyone go out and find their find their buddies. And by the way, just because you don't live in New York City, don't think we aren't gonna bring the puffing gun to a neighborhood near you at some point. The idea is uh after we get it funded and we test out uh the the gun in New York to do a traveling road show to uh to other areas of the country. Uh we probably can't take it internationally at this point, but uh we are taking it to other parts of the country.
+
+[6:15] True or false, Peter. Uh absolutely true. And uh I wouldn't actually rule out international just yet, but uh, you know, after the puffing gun, we have just you know, you know how Dave's brain works. We've got about a million and a half ideas for the next pop-up exhibits. And uh after we create a few of these, you know, we're gonna be able to take those wherever we can drive them.
+
+[6:34] And that's that's really exciting that we're not gonna have to uh just be uh stuck in one place. Yeah, and you should go and check out our video anyway. We have an incredible cavalcade of uh awesome, smart and famous people uh chilling out for us on the uh on the video. So go go check it out. Um anyway, we'll probably harp on that a couple more times.
+
+[6:54] Yeah, so uh boom.mofad.org, B O O M dot Mofadmo F A D.org. All right, let me hit a few of the questions we have in here. Uh one, hey cookie Issues crew, I'm trying to help my pops impart Thai basil into his cooking. Fresh uh and finishing applications aren't doing the trick for him. I've read that you can freeze Thai basil and break it up before laying it under a protein that you are cooking.
+
+[7:14] He also wanted to explore getting a mortar and pestle to release the oils or infuse cooking oil with it. Can you speak to the scientific aspect of working with more delicate herbs from Maximum Flavor? Thanks so much. Billy Rose Patterson, the manager of Alamo Draft House Cinema and Yonkers. I haven't been to Yonkers in a long time.
+
+[7:28] Trive through Yonkers because it's on the way to my mom's house who lives up uh north of the city, but uh haven't stopped by the Yonkers in a long time. Peter, you uh you ever hang out in Yonkers? I've never been, always been fascinated by the name though. Well, Yonkers, we know Yonkers, aside from being kind of the first city on the on the you know, on the left-hand side as you travel north, uh up up there. Uh and the childhood home of uh one of my sculpture mentors, John Kessler.
+
+[7:53] Uh, you know, we always heard like you know, Yonkers Raceway, that's where like I think the monster trucks trucks used to go. So, like when you remember when I used to growing up listening to Monster Monster Monster Trucks. Those guys were all in Yonkers, but no one ever took me to go see them. Sad, right? Sad.
+
+[8:07] Have you ever seen a demolition derby, Dave? I have not been to a demolition derby, but I've always wanted to go to a demolition derby, and I've also always wanted to go to a figure eight racing competition. You know, figure eight racing? Mm-hmm. Yeah, where they like they race in a figure eight and they smash in the middle.
+
+[8:21] Amazing stuff. I mean, crazy. I can't believe they did it. Anyway, whatever. That's that's now we're cut.
+
+[8:25] You know, they do that now. They have figure eight racing with school buses. Were you aware of this? No. Oh my god.
+
+[8:30] Yeah. Uh sick, dude. It's like like decommissioned school buses, and uh, they probably fill the S sides of it with concrete and stuff so they can keep going for a long time. And then the school buses are going as fast as they can around this tiny figure eight track without flipping over and then occasionally smashing into each other. I mean, I can't think of much cooler than that.
+
+[8:48] Except for maybe MOFAD's puffing guns. Uh nice. Boom. All right. So the issue with Thai basil, uh, and I think you're hitting the nail on the head.
+
+[8:57] Thai basil is an extremely fragile herb. Now, Thai basil, for those of you that don't use it, is uh it's akin to uh, you know, kind of the globe Italian basil, it's more common here in the US, but it has um has i it's I I like it quite a lot. It's it's not really used for the same applications. It has a bit of an anise note, but if you're not a f uh a friend of anise flavored things, don't let that put you off. It's not like overpowering or like a pastice kind of thing, but it has a definite anise flavored note.
+
+[9:25] Uh and it's what we use at the bar for our Thai basil dacqueries. I like it uh a lot. I think it's very good, by the way, in uh drink applications. But the problem with Thai basil, uh, even as opposed to regular globe basil, which is the Italian one that we you know are more used to, uh, is extremely fragile. It goes uh it goes off very, very quickly.
+
+[9:45] And the p by that I mean it turns black and the enzymes in it are very uh very fast, almost as fast as as they are in in mint, turning the leaves kind of black. And so it's difficult to do things with them uh and have them stay fresh for as long uh as you would with uh with um something like even with regular basil, which turns black very quickly as well. So the you know, the problem is is that anything that you're gonna do with it, for instance freezing it, if you freeze tie basil, when it thaws, as soon as it's odds, it'll turn black because the freezing is going to rupture the cells in in the or rupture some of the cells with ice crystals, and then when it thaws out, polyphenol oxidase uh enzymes in it will instantly go to work and turn the sucker swampy and black. So if if you were going to do something like one one thing you can do is to um you can dr you know, I've never dried Thai basil, so I'm kind of talking out of the out of the wrong side of my body at this point. But uh I'm sure you could dry it in the same way that they dry herbs, perhaps in the microwave, I've never tried it.
+
+[10:44] Or and it's not so good, but if you were going to freeze it, you could blanch them. The problem is if you blanch them, which kills the enzymes, you definitely change the flavor and you lose a lot of that freshness. If you freeze them very quickly and then never let them thaw again and then blend them in to something that doesn't have a lot of oxygen, you might be able to get around uh get around the problem of of it browning. But it really is uh just a kind of a delicate um a delicate herb that kind of needs a little bit of care to work. Now you can cook with it, it's fine.
+
+[11:15] But if you want that fresh, I mean it's great. I shouldn't say fine, it's great. You ever cook with it or Peter, you ever cook with Thai basil? No. All the time, I love it.
+
+[11:24] Yeah, right. I mean you can you can cook with it, like you can cook with any basil, but if you want that fresh flavor, it's very hard to do anything to that's why we go through all the trouble of freezing with liquid nitrogen and and you know, blending it with alcohol, which kills uh kills the polyphenol oxidase. Now, like I say, if you freeze it, then if you're going to um if you're going to uh blend it into something of sauce and water pester petrol and oil, you might want to sprinkle a little ascorbic acid on it before you do that to try and inhibit the browning that's going to happen almost instantly as it thaws out. Uh or you you might try uh muddling it with a little bit of super high proof ethanol to keep it green uh before you uh incorporate the oil and whatnot. But just remember, if it freezes and then thaws, as soon as it thaws out, it's gonna turn black, unless you prevent it by blanching, which kills the not kills the fresh flavor, but alters it, or um or hit it with some sort of antioxidant, or something that uh inactivates the enzymes like high proof ethanol, something like that.
+
+[12:21] Does that make sense, guys? Yep. Yeah. Alright, cool. Uh Dave Nastasha Jo Jack et al.
+
+[12:27] which I guess includes Peter today. Uh I purchased a small deep fryer late last year and regrettably haven't used it that much. It is regrettable to have a deep fat fryer and not use it. Although I will say that small deep fryers are nowhere near as awesome. I mean, like they're not even in the same league of awesome as uh as commercial deep fat fryers.
+
+[12:45] However, the summer after I graduated from college, I did only three things. I watched daytime TV, including Regis and Kelly, all the way through up to General Hospital soap operas. I watched the whole the whole thing. Uh and uh worked on my 76 Bonnetville, which required a lot of Bonjour work and spray painting it gold and whatnot. And I uh deep fried uh French fries and uh habanero chili rheenos in my uh little deep deep fryer fried addicts.
+
+[13:13] So they do work. Anyway, uh I purchased a small deep fryer late last year and regretably haven't used it that much. Four months ago I left the oil in it last time I used it after skimming out the solids. And you gotta be careful, you want to cover it so you you know light doesn't get to it. And um the problem, one of the problems with small fryers and storing oil in them for long periods of time, is that they have a a poor surface area to volume ratio, and so it's the surface area of oxygen uh transfer to volume that's gonna uh determine how fast uh the oil oxidizes and goes ran starting.
+
+[13:43] So they're not really ideal in that sense because they have a fairly large surface area. Anyways, uh okay, so after skimming the solids, three months ago I spooned in some solidified bacon fat, thinking it was a clever way to store it, uh, and I would deep fry something and get a great smoky bacon flavor in the next week or so. Three months later, the bacon fat and oil are still in the deep fryer. Question. Is it okay to fry chicken with this oil bacon fat combo for the fourth of July or not?
+
+[14:05] Well, I'm a little late to help you on that, but anyway. Uh I understand possible rancidity of bacon bits from baking grease could create a flavor issue, but if I bring it up to three fifty, are there any potential health issues with trying some fried bread uh to check for rancidity. Uh thanks, Tommy Bishop, YFL VA. Uh I don't uh Y Phil VA I don't think it's uh I c I can't think of any major health problems. But the issue with bacon grease in general, I mean I save it, but it goes off pretty quickly because remember there's a lot of salt in uh bacon and the salt is uh you know it's really going to um increase the rate, especially because bacon grease is usually heated to a very high temperature when you're cooking the bacon so you're starting to break down the fats there.
+
+[14:44] You have salt in it which is starting to break down the fats. And so in general bacon grease isn't your most stable of uh fats. Uh that said, you know it's not going to kill you to eat it. It's just a question of is it still going to taste good, right? What do you think guys think that's uh anyone anyone any thoughts?
+
+[15:04] Okay. So uh but uh your question is already done this or hasn't done it so what do you say? I guess we could just ask the person who asked the question because they probably tried it. Well but again Tom you know Tommy is uh is pointing out my favorite test for frying oils is putting a a cube of bread into them, frying them and then tasting the bread to see whether or not it has a uh you know whether it tastes like crap because bread's very neutral bread absorbs a lot of oil and then you can get a real feel for kind of what's going on with the uh with the bread. So that's a good way of doing it.
+
+[15:40] Uh but uh yeah it's not I mean it's not gonna kill you. I mean there are probably people who say that the the you know the free fatty acids aren't good for it and all that other stuff, but I don't know that I'm a real believer in it. I haven't seen any data that says that you know you're gonna substantially shorten your lifespan by uh having a little bit of uh bacon grease that's gone a little bit over the hill. You know? Hey Dave, what's the what's the lifespan of the oil in your massive fryer?
+
+[16:05] Very long. So if you so uh oil, there's a couple of things like so. I have a 35-pound deep fryer that takes about six gallons of oil, uh about five and a half, six gallons of oil. And uh it's stored very in a very tall format. Uh and additionally, you know, because deep fryers are tall and have a fairly small surface area for how deep they are.
+
+[16:25] And the other thing about uh, and so that right there for storage is uh kind of ideal. The other great thing about um commercial deep fryers that use the tubes called tube fryers, is that uh the oil at the bottom stays relatively cool, and uh also particles that come off of your food as you're frying sink to the bottom into relatively cooler oil instead of in traditional stovetop frying where the particles hit the bottom of the pan, which is the hottest part of the pan. Right. In addition, the surface area of heating in a tube fryer is so high that uh it doesn't overheat the oil too much because um it has such a large surface area for transfer. So it keeps the oil at a much more stable temperature, and stability of temperature is much better for uh for oil stability over time.
+
+[17:11] You don't overheat it to get to the temperature you're gonna cook, and therefore that greatly enhances the uh the length of time the oil lasts. It has a smaller surface area on top, so that greatly increases the length of time that it will last. And uh the burnt particles are kept at the bottom while you're fine, which greatly increases. So, all in all, uh just much, much, much, much, much, much better. You know what I mean?
+
+[17:35] Yeah. Um okay. So uh hey Dave Nastasha et al. from Timothy. Uh I came across this video of a guy making crepes in Kowloon Walled City.
+
+[17:47] I think it's pronounced Kowloon, it's in Hong Kong. Uh any idea what's going on? It's a YouTube video. Now I had no idea what Kowloon walled city is. Have you guys heard of this before I looked it up.
+
+[17:56] Have you guys heard of this? No. No. No. So Kowloon Wall City when um when the uh the British uh I don't really even know how they uh got Hong Kong in the first place through some form of coercion or whatnot, but when they gained control of Hong Kong uh in the early uh in the early 1800s or early mid eighteen hundreds, uh China maintained control of certain areas of Hong Kong including uh parts of uh Towhoon where they had a fort so they could see what the Brits were gonna were gonna do.
+
+[18:27] Uh in the late 1800s when the Brits uh I guess decided to uh alter the deal as Darth Vader would say uh they uh they took over control of Kowloon uh the walled city of the fort and then didn't do much with it and it stayed relatively lawless. It also stayed relatively unpopulated until after World War II uh and uh the fall of uh mainland China it also had it had a big influx during the Japanese occupation in um in World War II and then after World War II after the you know the the uh communist takeover of mainland China it just got swamped with people and still maintained no laws so until the and then it just got kind of crazier and crazier until at one point in this little six acre place 30,000 people were living with no law and like literally no law except the triads, which you know are the the the kind of their mafia over there. And so uh it was just insane. If you see pictures of it, it's like no light made it down into the bottom of it because people would just build kind of illegal walkways, people would bring in illegal electricity. It was so crazy.
+
+[19:33] It was like free for all, like Mad Max kind of thing. What do you say? Or like five points. Yeah, right. Kind of like five kind of like five points, and much like five points, which was uh incredibly vilified in the press at the time, uh, the vast majority of people who uh five points was the big gang area in uh downtown in New York uh in the uh eighteen hundreds, much like that, uh the majority of people who lived there were just living kind of normal lives and not you know, and just trying to to you know make a living and do whatever they needed to do.
+
+[20:06] Um so anyways, the um I need to move again because now there is a leaf blower. Uh so anyways, what what happened uh is that they kicked everyone out uh and then they tore the whole thing down. The same thing they did to the five points, actually. So it's it's almost an exact analog to five points. But there's a uh German documentary of it that was done prior to when they tore it down in the nineties and they evicted everyone, I guess, in the late eighties.
+
+[20:34] And in that video, uh you can see people just going about their daily business, like making noodles and making the what it isn't really crepes, which is what's pointed out in the video, but uh spring roll wrappers. And spring roll wrappers have a very interesting manufacturer technique because what you do instead of making a standard crepe dough, so in a standard crepe dough, you do a very high hydration dough, uh like one to one hydration of uh liquid to flour, you let it rest and hydrate and let all the air bubbles come out, and then you pour it on a very hot griddle uh with oil. You put oil down the griddle, you pour it down a very hot griddle, and you use a little kind of what looks like a spatula rake. I forget what the term in Fran French is, it's like it's like rap play or something like that. Peter will help me out because his French is much better than mine.
+
+[21:18] Uh and you you s swirl it around into a crepe, you let the bottom cook and you flip it. Spring roll, uh, by contrast, is a much uh less hydrated dough. It's I mean, I don't really know what they use, but it looks like maybe 75% hydration or maybe a little higher, and it sticks it sticks to your hand. And you need it to build up the gluten, use a high gluten flour. You need it to build up the gluten, and then you let it rest it for an hour or so before you use it to let it hydrate, and then you get a fairly low temperature griddle, right?
+
+[21:53] And I don't yeah, I don't think you want to oil it. I'm not sure. I don't think you want to oil it. But then you grab the dough in your hand, and you have this lump of sticky dough in your hand, and you mash it onto the griddle and you wipe it around in like a wax on, wax off movement. For those of you that have seen karate kid, uh, and then you pull the dough off, and just a thin layer sticks on your griddle.
+
+[22:12] Uh, and then after a couple moments, it dries out because it's very thin, and after it dries out, it self-releases from the griddle in the same way that uh in the same way that rice uh will release off the side of a pan if you let it dry overnight. But you don't want it to turn brown, so it's you're not browning it, right? So it's very low temperature, probably somewhere in the 200 Fahrenheit in that range, and he's making spring roll wrapper after spring roll wrapper. But it's a pretty cool technique. Um I don't think that's right.
+
+[22:40] I can't remember whether I've ever tried it. If I have tried it, it would have been decades ago. But it is a cool technique. You ever tried that, either of you guys? No.
+
+[22:48] Nope. You like yourself spring roll? Yeah. Loving my spring rolls. Yeah, everyone likes a spring roll, right?
+
+[22:55] I like spring rolls wrapped in lettuce. The combo is good for me. Uh that's more of a lettuce roll, isn't it? Well, it's a roll within a roll. Oh, you mean you like an actual spring roll with the wrapper and then wrap again in lettuce?
+
+[23:09] Yeah. Is that because of the whole like, you know, Korean thing? You re you have to wrap everything in lettuce, you're not happy? I can pretty much take anything, wrap it in lettuce and and love it. But I really like I really like the contrast of the crispy spring roll and then with the fresh lettuce.
+
+[23:23] It's makes me happy. So in order, do you would prefer but oh wait, well, you like a fried spring roll or you like 'em like still kind of you like 'em fried, like egg roll style, fried hard, and then wrapped in lettuce, or you like 'em soft wrapped in lettuce. In that case, fried. Fried, then wrapped in lettuce. Yep.
+
+[23:39] You should do you should do a uh you should fry it, you should fry it, then wrap it in an unfried one and then wrap it in lettuce. See how many layers you can go. By the way, this might be a a a good point to to bring this up. Uh I don't know if we brought it up before, but I'll see whether Nastasha and uh Peter and uh like the guys in the booth agree with me. I hate raps.
+
+[24:00] Uh man, I hate raps. For as much as I hate like uh spring roll, as much as I love tortillas of almost any variety, although I do prefer corn for most applications, man wraps suck. They really are bad. Everyone needs to walk around and then every once in a while, like think about the fact that wraps are so popular here in the US and they're really just they're just viciously bad. They're horribly, horribly bad.
+
+[24:26] I mean, you if you think about this. Uh you're taking an undercooked flour tortilla, which if you were gonna do any reasonable kind of cooking, you would reheat on a griddle to kind of make it taste more cooked, right? And then serve it right away in some sort of cooked thing. And instead, you're wrapping it with a bunch of other dense, wet crap, right? And then wrapping it in such a way almost invariably that you have too much uh kind of flowery mess on one section and not enough in another, and serving to someone as though something they should eat.
+
+[25:02] Have we discussed this before, Nastasha on the air? I think so. Have we? Well, it kind of bears repeating. Peter, we've never discussed it before.
+
+[25:09] What do you think? Am I am I off base here with my with my rap hatred? No, my my soul just crumbled away a little bit, just imagining biting into one of those cold, mealy, crumbly tortilla things. Like it's yeah. Not so so somewhere at some point, right?
+
+[25:26] And I can't remember when the rap thing happened, but I remember before there were raps, right? So like, you know, when I was a little boy, we didn't get raps. That didn't happen, right? That was not that was not on the rest. So some point between the late 70s and the mid-90s, some person who hates food, some person who absolutely detests all that is good in life, came up with this kind of horrible rancid idea and has perpetrated it on hundreds of millions of us.
+
+[25:57] Because we've all been served one of these nonsense wraps before. And I think, you know, right after you back the Mofad Kickstarter, go tell a friend not to buy wraps. You know what I'm saying? I will say this. You know, a lot of times, uh so back when I was working as an attorney, you know, we'd have these business meetings, right?
+
+[26:16] And there'd be catered food. And I'll be honest, a lot of times I opted for the wrap over the sandwich simply because I didn't want to make a mess and it was just easier to eat. I still didn't like it. I still prefer a sandwich. I don't necessarily think that this was an uh a crime against humanity as as you're suggesting, but you know.
+
+[26:35] It's there is something to be said about how it keeps your hands clean. Alright, well, okay, so let's let's go on this for a second. That's true. However, here's here's the thing. Most a a poorly made sandwich, right, is still better than a well-made wrap, right?
+
+[26:52] And but the problem is is that there it's very hard to actually construct a sandwich for best taste and also best eatability. You know what I mean? So most people they'll overstuff the hell out of their sandwich, and then it tastes good because the fillings almost always taste good, but it's completely uneatable in a kind of a friendly or not friendly, but the public or business environment because the stuff's gonna be falling all over your plate all the time. The flip side is people that manufacture sandwiches for either maximum eatability or their maximum crazy hairbrained idea of health, right? Like those guys, when they when they make the sandwich, it's like horribly dry.
+
+[27:29] And all like a dry sandwich makes me almost as sad, maybe in some situations more sad, because it could be so much better with a simple addition of the condiment like mayonnaise or oil, as a wrap. Do you know what I'm saying? Yeah. I think that's how sad is a dry sandwich. How sad are these two things?
+
+[27:46] A dry sandwich or an undersalted sandwich, where they like someone made the chicken salad and they didn't put enough salt in the chicken salad, and it's also a little too dry, and they pack it on that like horribly bad, badly made wheat bread that they think is good for you, but it's not because it tastes bad. And there's like the bread the bread to fill in combo is just way off. I mean, I I think the solution really for this is to have tea sandwiches at all business meetings. I love tea sandwiches. These sandwiches are good.
+
+[28:16] Yeah. But I think you know the other issue with bad sandwiches, i you know, there's so much bad like so much of the kind of things that are put out for people to eat are horrible. I mean, I don't know what got me into this mood, but here's another one for you. When you wrap a breadstick with uh with ham, right, you gotta realize that uh especially the thin breadsticks, like their ability to stay crisp is extremely minimal because any amount of water at all uh migrates out of that ham into that breadstick. And now you have like a mealy gooey breadstick, and then you have to try and extricate this ham from around it.
+
+[28:52] And it and i I should it's another pro people need to think about moisture migration and putting different products together. Uh they're gonna sit around for a long time when they're worrying about catering things like business lunches. What are your thoughts on the breadsticks and ham? Just moisture migration uh ignorance. Yeah.
+
+[29:12] Yeah. Yeah. I mean otherwise. I mean, I don't think I would describe it that way myself. I mean, I I agree with you in spirit, you know.
+
+[29:23] I'm I'm right there with you. Just perhaps the uh the uh magnitude is uh it's you're further out there than me. Well, I also noticed that uh what you're telling me is that at the business meeting you're too much of a sissy to take the sandwich that you like and instead taking the rep. Oh, the hate's being directed this way now. Yeah.
+
+[29:45] Yes, yes. Well, you know, i if you ever come work, anyone who's listening, if they ever come work with us, you gotta realize there's gonna be a certain amount of hate down getting thrown around at all times. We just can't we can't help a little bit of the friendly hate down uh here uh at either at MoFad uh or Booker Index or Cooking Issues. Anyway, uh we got it take a uh commercial break? Sure.
+
+[30:07] Oh wait, here's a big coming out. This one is called Fish Is Fish Is Vodka by the Meatballers on cooking issues, this is Chris Young, co-author of Modernist Cuisine. Together with photographer Ryan Matthew Smith and Chef Grant Krille, we've created something exciting and new at Chefsteps.com. Each day in our kitchen at Seattle's Pike Place Market, we're working on new recipes, as well as updating classic ones that we love. And we're always looking for new techniques that make the impossible possible.
+
+[31:32] At ChefSteps.com, we publish it all online with detailed step-by-step demonstrations, as well as explanations of the science that answers the why behind the how in the kitchen. And through our forum, you can engage with our team as well as a friendly community of curious cooks from around the world. If you're interested in becoming a better cook, if you want more from the creative team behind modernist cuisine, and if, like us, you're a fan of Dave Arnold in cooking issues, then we think there's a lot you'll like. And the best part, Chef Steps.com is entirely free to learn. And welcome back to the Issues.
+
+[32:11] Here today with Peter Kim. Head of Mofad, Nastasha, and the engineering crew. Calling your questions, she's awesome time. Calling your questions to 714972128 to 718497-2128. So we have this one in uh comment really from uh Andrea Perotti from the uh UK.
+
+[32:30] And this one, uh Peter, you weren't gonna want to listen to it. It has to do with uh Mofad. I'm a longtime reader of the blog and listener of the show. My girlfriend and I have followed uh the recent Mofad development and are very excited about this project, especially the puffing gun exhibit. I'm a nutrition science student currently working at Kellogg's as a junior nutritionist on our UK team.
+
+[32:47] I'm sure you guys won't need it, but if you'd uh if you'd like any information or any help of any kind, I'd be happy to contribute any way I can. I'm not a huge manufacturing expert, but I work closely with the RD team, and I'll be happy to let any inform give you any information should you need it. So I guess we know who knows, who knows what we need, right, Peter? Oh, yeah, that would be fantastic. Yeah.
+
+[33:04] Fantastic. So, yeah, you should definitely contact us uh at info at mofad.org, and uh we'll definitely get in touch with you. Here's the best part. Best of luck in obtaining the full amount for the puffing gun. We recently made a small donation, but are spreading the word to all of our family and friends.
+
+[33:18] So Andrea's doing exactly the right thing, which is spreading the word to all the family and friends. Maybe we have a caller. Uh, we have a caller. Caller, you're on. Oops.
+
+[33:36] Can you guys hear? I can't I can't I can't hear what's going on. Caller. Hello. Hi.
+
+[33:43] Howdy. Hello? Hi. Hello. Caller.
+
+[33:51] Hello. Hi. Howdy do you what's your question? Hi. Sorry, uh Susan you can hear me.
+
+[33:59] Um I'm calling about uh long time listener love the show. Um calling about thickening yogurt. I'm wondering I want to like take yogurt and add pure fruit puree to it, but it loses a lot of its viscosity. And I'm wondering if I can use something like agar or carrageenan to thicken it so that I can like form canals with spoon. Well you can thicken uh yogurt with carragen.
+
+[34:21] It's done all the time. The issue is is that uh you know carragena needs to be heated uh you know pretty hot almost all the way up to uh the boil for it to really get um to to get active now what you can do is uh heat heat the carrageenin in and I would use so kappa carragenin is uh stiff and brittle uh and it doesn't reform after it's broken whereas iota carrageenin is much more kind of uh stretchy uh and it also reforms gel so a lot of times people will use a mix of kappa and uh iota for things like thickening yogurt uh and you you you can use a very small amount because carragena is very s synergistic with um uh with uh dairy systems um and so i mean i think a lot of the times people would probably add the stuff before the thickening because they can then heat it but without heating the yogurt up to a certain to a high temperature but what you could do is over um you know heat the yogurt slightly and then oh it'll kill the culture so and then over uh you know overdose dose some actual straight milk and then stir that in let it gel and then set up further alternatively you know you could take a live yogurt uh make like a firmer iota and then you know stir it in uh just before it sets when it's warm but not too hot and then let it set like that and then let it culture up a little more and you should be able to get a uh a gel. The other thing though is if you really want to thicken it up just hang it. You know like uh put put it into like uh you know uh uh natural fine cheesecloth not the wretched they sell in the supermarket and let moisture drip out of the yogurt for a good long time and uh you'll you'll drip out a bunch of the moisture and it'll thicken up quite a bit and then you won't have as much of a problem when you mix the fruit fruit purees back into it because uh it'll you'll just be taking it back to where it once was right okay. Um how much keratean do you typically use for say like X amount of something like yogurt.
+
+[36:20] You could you said you use small amounts, right? What do you say? You you generally typically use like very little right. Yeah. Well so I mean uh in a dairy systems carotene is roughly uh five times more powerful than it is in water-based systems.
+
+[36:35] I mean the numbers get a little dicey when you get down to those kind of very low percentages, but you can in general use like on the order of uh two grams per kilo something in that range and get a pretty uh decent gel with with them. Um Piper Christensen uh who works with us at Booker and DAX uh did a stint at uh working R D at CP Kelco who does a lot of the good carrageenas. So what we'll have him do, uh he's in Vietnam right now, but when he gets back from Vietnam I'll just ask him for a good yogurt thickening recipe and have him tweet it out and I'll retweet it for it on our cooking issues tweet Twitter feed before uh next week's show. Awesome. That would be amazing.
+
+[37:16] Thanks I love the show. Love everyone there. Keep up the good work. Thanks so much. Thanks for calling in.
+
+[37:22] Yeah no worries. So all right. So Andrea uh made a comment uh back from uh the the person who works at Kellogg's in the UK uh and this is the apropos part also for Peter uh the nutrition show uh the nutrition coverage on the show is limited but always very interesting and usually aligned with my personal opinions. There are not so many shows, programs or print media publications that really value evidence-based nutrition like you do. I really do enjoy listening.
+
+[37:45] Well Andrea I have a treat for you that you can talk about a little bit which is the museum we've mentioned this on the air the museum is going to be uh doing a series of food fora uh I guess that's a plural for forum uh where we get uh uh experts in different fields uh food related fields on opposite sides of uh different issues including uh nutrition questions things like the soda ban in New York uh and kind of what the evidence is on whether or not that's even a useful thing or a good thing uh things like what other what other subjects we got to tackle Peter? Uh looking at the marketing of snack foods also uh GMO seeds and basically I take any any controversial food issue where you've got a lot of really strong opinions out there, you know, bringing all these people together for a uh for a discussion and to allow people to see the different points of view and come to their own conclusions. Right. So, you know, what we hope is that you know, this is going to be uh a bastion of kind of no BS straight footing. We're gonna get people from different sides of the debate who are all smart, no idiots, uh, and get them together, moderate them, and try to have some actual interesting food discussion.
+
+[39:06] A lot of it's gonna be centered about around nutrition just because that's such an important topic today. There's just so much misinformation uh out there. Uh because you know, almost all the information that you get presented is presented by someone who has an axe to grind. Don't you think so, Peter? Yeah, I agree.
+
+[39:23] Yeah. I mean, we have a I have an axe to grind too, but my axe to grind is that everyone else has an axe to grind, but I guess that is that is its own axe, right? Is that a meta axe? Yeah, meta-axe. I'd say either an axe to grind or a commercial interest.
+
+[39:39] Yeah, or or some combination. Yeah. Some combination thereof. Okay. Vivian Mack writes in uh question for the show.
+
+[39:45] Uh she writes on Twitter actually. Uh, why do some uh age uh egg whites when they make macro, what's the difference? Uh what's the effect of age, egg whites on foam, uh drainage, and volume? Well, I looked at an article called Hen Age and Ape Storage Time for Egg Albumin Foaming by Marianne Hammer Surge. Dave, you have another caller.
+
+[40:04] Oh, yeah, okay, okay. Caller, you're on the air. Uh yeah, Dave. Um I'll be brief here since we run out of time. Falafel.
+
+[40:12] Um having repeated falafel disasters, it either instantly burns or just is completely disintegrates in the oil. Yes, that is true. Uh uh I that there's nothing more depressing than uh there's nothing more depressing than making the falafel ball and then sticking it into the oil, having it completely dissolved, and then form a layer of burnt crap on the bottom of your fryer. Check, check, check. Yes.
+
+[40:42] Yeah. It happens to me all the time. And I did went research a good recipe, and I had my falafels uh down. But I'm hesitant to uh just like over the air, give a bunch of things because I want to remember exactly uh how balance them. I think one of my main problems was I early on is I really like uh I really like uh tahini flavor a lot, and so I think I put a lot of it into the chickpea mix that I put in, and so I think the oil and plus I didn't add a lot of external binder to it, and they just blew apart.
+
+[41:19] Um then I moved to try to chill the batter first in the you know par freeze a little bit so that they'd uh hold well before that crust set up, and I went through a whole bunch of rigamaroles, but I'm gonna try to figure out exactly what I did, and if Natasha can write a note, I'll uh try to talk about it at the next week's uh program when I have uh a little more time to regather my thoughts on it. But but that you're correct. There's nothing more depressing, well, a few things more depressing than watching your falafel balls fall apart in the fryer and sink to the bottom. Yes. Um thank you very much.
+
+[41:51] All right, so we'll we'll uh we'll deal with that guy next week. All right, so back to the importance of hen age and egg storage time uh from 2000. And I was reading the abstract. The firm and infraction of egg albumin had different foaming properties. Uh so and it, I'll give you the upshot.
+
+[42:07] The thin white foams more, i.e. I eat has more overrun, can take more area to it. But the thick white produces a more stable foam, right? So you can't uh the the you can't win. And so the more you age things, the more the uh egg whites, uh more of the thick white is converted into uh thin white.
+
+[42:30] But also the the foaming properties of it depend on the age of the hen when the hen lays the egg, and that's something you can't control anyway. So really uh there is no way uh there's no way to win. Uh there's another article if you want, you can go look at uh that deals with uh the problem of meringue specifically. It's called the effect of sugar, citric acid, and egg white types on the microstructural mechanical properties of meringues, which came out relatively recently, but uh I think all of this stuff is kind of point. The best thing I read about it was uh on a website called Macaron Myth Mythbusters, uh uh on the blog www.uhbravepart.com.
+
+[43:09] By the way, we're not talking about macaroons here, we're talking about the the French meringue-based cookies with the jelly in between, which I freaking love. Do you guys like those things? Uh no, not really. What the what the hell? You don't like those either.
+
+[43:25] What do you not like about those? Peter, you like those things, right? Sorry, man. You don't like Well, actually, I don't uh it's been so long since I've had one. But I'm not I don't have much of a sweet tooth.
+
+[43:37] The hell's wrong with you people. Why don't you like it, Stas? Is it because it reminds you of how delicious a biscuit is? No, I uh same as Peter. Like I haven't had it in a long time, so it's not like I care that much about them.
+
+[43:48] So maybe that's the thing. I just don't care. So it's not that you don't like them, it's just you don't care about them. But if someone put in front of you, you're not you're having no thanks. No, I'll eat it.
+
+[43:58] Yeah, all right, well, you guys are freaking over those. I think they're delicious. Anyway, uh so uh Brave Tart, and I don't know who it is, uh sh uh did a series of tests. And uh here's what Braveheart writes, which I really like. Uh every day I changed a single variable across multiple batches.
+
+[44:16] And Brave I was making them professionally uh for somebody uh you know for for several months was doing you every day was pumping out these things and so had a lot of opportunity to test and said uh changed feel variable across multiple batches generally three in order by results. I also tested variables by their absence. For example, I listened to Huey Lewis in the news every time I made macaron the macaron turned out fabulous. Then I made a few batches without the power of love because these all uh and then these also turned out beautifully so I can at least conclude that Huey Lewis didn't play an essential role in the matter of making macarons I think that's kind of a great test you know maybe it was the Huey Lewis. And Bra Brave here is Brave Tart rather here is uh what they're what what you know what Braveheart's basic tart is basically saying is that uh a lot of these things that people take for granted or take f as rules making them like you have to uh age your egg whites first or you have to um or you have to dry out them after you pipe them before you cook them aren't necessarily dried in stone.
+
+[45:14] And Brave Tart's point, and I can't keep saying their name because I don't know if it's a he or she, but uh Brave Tart's point is basically that if you have proper technique and you know what a proper meringue looks like and the proper egg white foam looks like then you can get that egg white foam. You can get a proper result, right? Uh if your technique is good, whether you dry it uh after you uh after you pipe it or you don't because that's basically controlling uh moisture a lot of the techniques that are used are controlling the moisture content of the uh batter before it's piped so drying controls the spread of the macaron and the and and and the moisture content by letting some moisture flash off ditto with the aging the egg whites and by the way back to Vivian Mac's question aging the egg whites can mean uh several things it can mean using aged egg whites i.e uh what or aged eggs that is eggs that are older had and therefore also have a higher pH and more thin white uh and also possibly more protein density because some uh water's evaporated it could also mean uh uh cracking the eggs out in advance uh and then letting moisture flash off the top of the egg white to also increase protein density either one of those things could be meant by aging I'm not sure which one you mean uh or which one anyone means when they're talking about it but the the the big point here is that uh all of the variables about the age of the egg whites can just be swamped and drowned out if you just perfect uh your actual technique so I would go read uh Brave Tart's macaroon section uh macaron section rather uh and see what they said. So uh very quickly because I know I am running out of time because I have to make it to my Uncle Luke's hundredth birthday you don't want to be late to a hundredth birthday party am I right? Right.
+
+[46:57] We need a hundred so last time I saw Uncle Luke he was ninety-eight and he's he's still clipping along saw him yesterday you know just just in case but uh but yeah never been to a hundredth birthday oldest relative I've ever had you have anyone that's uh close to a hundred no family ever no not at all yeah yeah he's down here in Florida living the kind of dehydrated Florida life, you know? Yeah. Yeah. Uh okay. So uh Scott from Guelph, you know we love Guelph.
+
+[47:25] Never been, but like I always say, awesome uh university up there, Democrats writes in uh saw an interesting link uh about the polymerization uh the polymerization of oils and the for those of you that want to look at it as a patent link is EP 244066 A1 uh and says Dave was talking about Japanese being able to get oil products uh thought this might be relevant. Now we were talking before about this Japanese product a couple people wrote in about uh that you could uh add to uh oil in the pan it solidifies it so you could throw it away as a block which is kind of cool uh but this is is kind of a a cool technique then we should talk about it more next week where they're actually using um not methyl cellulose like we use in normal cooking ethyl cellulose uh and the the deal with ethyl cellulose as opposed to methyl cellulose is ethyl cellulose is not soluble in water it's not a hydrocolum soluble in oil but it's in it's and although it's not a hydrocolloid it's not soluble in water uh it it's it is exactly analogous to hydrocolloids in water but so you disperse ethyl cellulose in oil heat it up to a much higher temperature than you do uh most water based cells 140 uh Celsius uh it dissolves in cools and forms a gel where the liquid phase is actually liquid oil and not liquid water uh experimenting with them but it's uh pretty cool and they have a lot of um potential uses in being able to uh replace uh trans fats. Anyway, okay. Question before uh before we gotta go. Uh your Jack got a question for the show and something for you to laugh at.
+
+[49:09] This is from Dane and Siska. Uh and I'll first give you the one that they sent me to laugh at of uh the uh they you know he knows uh that uh we enjoy uh funk and hip hop and all this kind of stuff so and I was not aware of this website but sent us a link to uh it's called Gizoogle and basically they take they take any it's like Google but they they somehow use Google Translate's uh uh functionality and they translate any they translate anything into smooth bugs kind of like you know shit language. So they sent us a link to uh cooking issues uh heritage radio cooking issues uh splash page done in uh in chisel language and it is a an interesting it's fun to do search uh as long as you're you know as long as you're not offended by uh people dropping a lot of F bombs it is back to these quick questions he has two questions next week because I don't understand it. Questions are w number one, Western sauce W a TF. I've never heard of Western sauce you ever heard of Western sauce or Peter?
+
+[50:16] No. I have no idea what that is. I don't for Western uh North Carolina versus East North Carolina barbecue sauce in which case I'm gonna see WTF who wants that Western North Carolina barbecue sauce. No offense Lexington North Carolina because I'll tell you something the Eastern North Carolina barbecue sauce which is vinegar and red pepper only way to be and you know I think now anyone that lives you know kind of in the Piedmont area of uh North Carolina and likes to add a little bit of tomato in the otherwise delicious pulled pork barbecue uh with uh with kind of too police and such, but uh it you know there's kind of like there's a right and a wrong there, and I believe Eastern North Carolina sauce is right. Uh about to think that's what they're referring to.
+
+[50:57] Probably gonna get in trouble for that smoke. Uh shame there. Oh, and by the way, uh, you know how a couple weeks ago I came out against barbecue sauce because in general I'm against it. You remember that stuff? Yeah.
+
+[51:08] Do you know who Dr. Gable Williams is? You're sort of fading out and then. Oh, do you know who Dr. Gable Williams is?
+
+[51:15] No. Gunger Gable Williams was the most famous animal trainer like the freaking brothers ever had. And he's been down here, and I had a chance to taste his steak sauce, and I have to say it was pretty good. Check out Gunter Gable Williams' steak sauce. You take uh you take scotch.
+
+[51:33] You taste a bunch of onions, and then you throw in a bunch of scotch, and then you throw in a bunch of Worcestershire sauce, and then uh and that and then you throw in a little bit a little bit of brown sugar and uh a little bit of mustard and a little bit of Worcestershire sauce, and that and I have to say actually like that's pretty good. That's more of a zoo. That's a yeast sweet barbecue sauce and more of a jus. Anyway, um, so it looks like uh looks like it's all the good stuff we got, it does. Yeah.
+
+[52:05] Alright, we're out. I'm gonna uh report on my Uncle Luke's hundredth birthday when I come back to these looking issues and remember to back Kickstarter by the. Yeah, Dave, one more plug. One more plug, man. So yeah, we'd really appreciate you guys' support.
+
+[52:17] Uh means a lot to us. Uh really needs to help. So uh and we need to raise the money we need for the exhibit by July twenty. If we don't get the support we need, this is really just not gonna happen. So please get on to boom that mofed.org.
+
+[52:30] Uh thank you. Do it, do it now, do it. Do it. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[52:53] You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] This is Chris Young, co-author of Modernist Cuisine. I'd like to invite you to check out Chefsteps.com. It's a free website we've created as a place to learn new cooking techniques and collaborate with curious cooks from around the world. Sign up now at ChefSteps.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn.
+
+[0:21] If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Cooking issues. Cooking issues. Hello, and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave All and your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from New Orleans, Louisiana.
+
+[1:10] But the rest of the cooking issues crew is coming to you live from Bushwick, Brooklyn, with uh sweating in their chonies right now without air conditioning. How are you guys doing? Fine. Uh yeah, yeah. Well, we have uh in the studio today.
+
+[1:23] We actually have a full crew over there. We have uh I think we have do we have Jack Angelo in the engineering booth or uh No, just me today. Oh, he made you suck up the heat. Thanks, Joe. Uh, but in the uh actual uh little place where we do the show, we have Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, as usual.
+
+[1:41] We also have Peter Kim from MoFad to talk more of Mofad goodness with us, and Piper decided to go and take a hit with us today. How are you doing, guys? Fine. Good. Yeah, yeah, good.
+
+[1:51] All right. So listen, a note on uh a note on uh Mofad, the Museum of Uh Food and Drinks. This is the last cooking issue show before our Kickstarter ends. Kickstarter ends on this Saturday. And uh right now we're still pushing towards our goal.
+
+[2:08] We super duper need everyone's help on this. I mean, it's very critical that we uh make and break through this goal to get the puffing gun in the museum kind of on track. Peter, you want to say uh a few words here? Yeah, we've got four days. We need to raise over 14,000 of, you know, it's not just about launching this puffing gun exhibit, but it's really about generating momentum for the museum as a whole.
+
+[2:33] And uh, you know, we can't really get into the details here, but there's a lot more at stake than just this exhibit. Uh, there are a lot of uh, let's just say important people watching, and if we have a strong showing here, we show that there's broad support for a food museum here in New York, which I think there should be, uh, then a lot of great things are gonna happen for the project. This is really gonna help us rocket forward to opening up New York's first brick and mortar food museum. It's something we really believe in. We need your help.
+
+[2:59] Please get on to Kickstarter at Boom.mofad.org right away. Boom.mofad.org. We really need your help. Thanks, guys. You've already backed it, right?
+
+[3:09] You can always go in, manage your pledge, kick in a few dollars more. It's not gonna hurt. You don't have to only pledge whatever you pledged to get your t shirt or whatever. Am I right, Peter? That's right.
+
+[3:19] And actually, real quick story. I was on the phone with my brother the other day, and uh, you know, lamenting to him how stressful this whole process is. Um, and I was talking to my eight year old nephew uh Oliver, and Oliver uh basically was telling me how amazing the puffing gun looks and how he's so excited about seeing it. And then he said, I'll try to do uh a little impression. Uncle Peter, uh, Uncle Peter, I I looked in my piggy bank.
+
+[3:44] I have ten dollars. I want to donate ten dollars to the MoFed Kickstarter campaign, because I want to see a puffing gun. Uh Wow. Are you gonna are you gonna are you guys out there gonna disappoint that kid? Seriously.
+
+[3:57] My eight-year-old nephew, he wants to donate ten dollars. I'm not taking the ten dollars, but that is like I mean, basically, I think he's that he just gave away his whole life savings right there to MoFed. And so if an eight-year-old can do that, uh, you know, we've got awesome stuff. $30 gets you a great t-shirt, $50 gets you a tote, $300, and you can see Dave, Harold McGee, uh Wiley Dufrein, a bunch of other steps uh puffing whatever they want in the puffing gun, and we'll be doing some really interesting stuff there. Yeah, no one should be disillusioned when they're eight.
+
+[4:29] Nine. Nine is the is the year of disillusionment. Yeah, there you go. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[4:34] Uh all right, let's I figured it's like let's see whether we can sweeten this up a little bit. People who have listened to the show for a while, uh, may remember several years ago when I lost a bet. And the bet was uh the bet was to uh whether or not someone could produce uh a raw chocolate that I thought was even marginally uh halfway decent and worth eating as chocolate, right? And if I lost, uh I would have to eat uh raw vegan food for a week. And I did.
+
+[5:04] And you know, no offense to people who eat raw vegan every day, but it was horribly unpleasant and wreaked havoc with my uh GI track. Let's put it that way. So I was gonna put this to you guys there in the studio. Can we think of an equally unpleasant thing that I can do? And then let's say, okay, I bet that we don't get more than $10,000 more than uh than than what we want.
+
+[5:27] So in other words, that we won't make it to 90. If we make it to ninety, I'll go through with whatever unpleasant thing that uh that we think we should do. What do you think? Finish your book on time. It's too late, my book's already late.
+
+[5:39] Busted. Busted. I can't finish something on time. It's already late. I mean we can create a new deadline.
+
+[5:45] Yeah, yeah, right. You can always create a new deadline. My question is something that the reader that the listeners care about, right? Like, is there anything unpleasant that I can eat, some like horrible, stupid diet that I can undertake for a week or two? Well, here are things I we know that Dave hates.
+
+[5:58] What does Dave hate? Dave hates raps. Dave hates natto, Dave hates cherries. Well, I don't hate them, I love them. I just can't have them.
+
+[6:08] Piper, you probably know better. What what other stuff does Dave hate? Um you could do 40 hard boiled eggs like cool hand luke. Well, that's more of a physical challenge. I gave that sort of thing up.
+
+[6:19] I mean, like that gave that sort of thing up when I was in college. I mean, I was that guy in college who uh I was that guy in college who uh would eat you know anything for like uh like two bucks. I always like so cheap. I once ate a gallon of salsa for I think three bucks. I ate like a couple of those uh, you know, like whole tea bags for like a dollar.
+
+[6:39] That was like I was that guy. That was me in college. That guy. The bar's pay. That was me.
+
+[6:43] Yeah. Uh so a gallon of salsa for three bucks for ninety thousand. Yeah, yeah, yeah. But I'm not that guy anymore. So once you have kids, my wife's like, really?
+
+[6:53] You can't you can't do things that dumb because it uh you know it makes it sends the wrong message to the kids. You know what I mean? What about the lemonade cleanse? Oh, that actually be quite good. What's the lemonade cleanse?
+
+[7:04] It's like uh maple syrup and lemonade and uh cayenne pepper, and that's all you get. All day long. I mean, I could do that, that. That's just unpleasant, but it doesn't have me learn anything. It doesn't have me like is there anything that I've derided horribly?
+
+[7:14] Let's think about it for a couple minutes. And uh uh by the way, call your questions to sub one eight four nine seven two one two eight. That's 7184972128. I'm gonna read something in from uh one of our listeners and supporter of Mofad. By the way, since I don't know them personally, do you think it's Jean Doe or Zon Do?
+
+[7:33] Zhondo would be the better Twitter Twitter handle, right? Zon Doe? It is Zon Doe. And I've I've spoken with him extensively. This this guy has been a superstar, really helping us with the outreach.
+
+[7:43] Yeah. So he wrote in and said, uh, I've learned a lot from your cooking issue show over the several months listening to your podcast. I'm pretty close to being caught up in all the back episodes. Thank you for freely sharing your in-depth knowledge as well as making uh the methods and techniques so accessible. Also, the Mofab Kickstarter is a food education game changer, and I wish you all the best of luck in getting it back.
+
+[8:00] I'm doing what I can do to spread the word. Here are a couple of my thoughts on boom, which is the name of the Kickstarter, by the way. Uh on Twitter uh post requesting puffing ideas. I recall Sean Brock suggested uh I'm gonna stush I pronounce it the way you hate Faro. Nastasha hates it when I say pharaoh instead of pharaoh.
+
+[8:15] Anyway, faro and uh at Mark S. mentioned sorghum. Uh ideas are good, but what about encouraging grain uh farmers, chefs, etc. to donate interesting ingredients? And that's we an outreach program that would get more people excited about boom, it would be analogous to the communal oven back in the day.
+
+[8:28] I was wondering if you could possibly create your own grain in quotes to puff. I understand that puffing has to do with grain moisture content and the hull containing the grain. The moisture part is easy. Is there a food technology one could easily leverage to create a pseudo hole? Well, interestingly, here uh that is not that is how normal popcorn style stuff works, but the puffing gun doesn't require the hull.
+
+[8:49] The science behind the puffing gun and puffing in general. So when you're puffing a popcorn, what happens is you have starch and moisture, and you heat up uh the starch and moisture, and the moisture is trapped not just because of the starch, but because of the uh skin, the hull around the outside of the popcorn. Until enough pressure can build up that it ruptures that skin and boom explodes into popcorn. In the puffing gun, you don't need that layer because you just seal it tight and the whole thing goes under pressure. So there's no way for it to expand.
+
+[9:18] There's no way for it to boil or expand when it's inside of the gun because s pressure just simply mounts up. Then when you pull the lever, everything instantly puffs uniformly. So if you put popcorn in a puffing gun, it comes out as spheres. Uh Peter's like totally jacked for that because he's been like dreaming of these popcorn spheres since since we got the gun. We haven't put fired popcorn in it yet.
+
+[9:38] Uh but that's also why you can put dough-based things in, and that's how they used to make Cheerios. In fact, this gun was originally designed by Kellogg's to make Cheerios. So yes, you can make your own sort of uh mix of grains and other starches and puff them in that no problem. Right, Peter? Yeah, that's right.
+
+[9:56] Oh, uh all right, before I take the collar, uh uh Jondot finished out. Here's what he would like to puff azuki beans, black sesame, and rice. If it works, we could uh make a tasty mochi-inspired marshmallow treat. Please tell your listeners that I back MoFat's kickstorder and so should they, right? That's a good idea.
+
+[10:11] Caller, you're on the air. Hey, how's it going, guys? Going all right. Quick one for you. So I've heard you're uh you got a certain affinity for game and I'm a dude from Minnesota.
+
+[10:23] We kill a lot of deer up here, about like eleven a year. And my experience all of our cooking has been with uh using beef based recipes to uh and applying them to venison, which the results your mileage may vary. I was wondering if you had any suggestions as far as uh better ways to make use of uh all that game meat and uh like any thoughts you have. Well, you have a circulator? Um I do, yeah.
+
+[10:46] Yeah. So how's this stuff been coming out? Uh in other words, like when you do do the beef subs, I'm assuming you're doing them uh you're doing them in in a circulator, are they still coming out um how how are they coming out? Like what like tell me what tell me how the how the texture and the flavor of the stuff is coming out when it when it works. Are you killing uh are these younger animals or older animals by and large?
+
+[11:08] Hello? Hello? Collar? Alright, I think we had it. Are we back?
+
+[11:16] Alright, I think we're gonna have to hang up on this colour. What what happened? Collar dropped out. Oh man. Because I had I had a lot of interesting questions to ask the questions I wonder is by and large is he getting younger animals or older animals?
+
+[11:29] Because one of the issues with treating game like uh beef is that the beef that we get is r I mean no offense to beef, but relatively neutral in flavor compared to uh you know much older animals just because it's it's younger. And so game meats, the older they are the kind of more flavorful the more different kind of flavors they're gonna have. And if you're doing uh low temper sous vide with them, which is a great idea because you don't have to overcook it and you know you can kind of you know cook it very gently without overcooking it. The problem is is that some of these things can get kind of overwhelming when you cook them for a long time because some of those gamey flavors uh that come out of what fat there is and other things in the animal tend to accentuate uh over time as they sit in the bag. Uh and also certain older meats aren't gonna get tender no matter what you do, just because the suckers are tough.
+
+[12:19] I mean, that's the problem we had when we cooked uh we cooked that bear uh and we cooked the lion, as opposed to the yak, which is freaking delicious. Stas, you remember the yak, right? Yeah. That was delicious. Um, you know, I don't know about any specific uh, you know, to focus specifically on deer, because I unfortunately don't get enough of it to cook myself.
+
+[12:42] But when I get back to New York, I'm gonna take a look uh I'm gonna take a look at you know, I have the um after the hunt, which is John Folse's book on cooking uh Louisiana game that he shoots down here, and I know he has a big section on deer, so I'm gonna I'll check out to see kind of what he thinks about um uh using deer to its best advantage and then try try to kind of tech those ideas up. Piper, you you uh you guys have a lot of deer up in Vermont that you eat or no? Yeah. You ever look you uh you uh what what have you because the low temp stuff I've done on deer, uh you know, I've done I've done more elk than I've done deer because people have brought me more elk than deer. I've done some deer.
+
+[13:19] What like what kind of luck have you had with it on uh low temping it or recipes for it? I've never done low temp with it, but uh sausage it works really well. Yeah, everything tastes good in sausage, man. Why haven't you low temped it yet? Because you haven't been back there during deer season or what?
+
+[13:31] Yeah, I just haven't been back there in uh in a while. So you're gonna rectify that this uh this fall? Yes. I'll get my license. Yeah, all right.
+
+[13:39] Hey, really? You invite me up? Can I come up? We'll go out together? Why not?
+
+[13:43] All right, cool. Uh all right, so then we'll uh we'll we'll we'll get back on that. Okay. Um you guys come up with any good uh good, bad ideas for me. Look, the lemonade cleanse, I'll do it.
+
+[13:53] It's fine. I mean, if we decide on that, maybe someone can call in with something horrific for me to do. You could eat in Brooklyn for a month. Oh my god. That's just like that.
+
+[14:02] The problem with that is I just won't see my kids. See, that's the that's the thing. Like I can't just move to Brooklyn for a month. You can bring them. And I'm not the one that hates Brooklyn, that's Nastasha that hates Brooklyn.
+
+[14:13] Remember? Then she can eat in Brooklyn for a month. Well, she'll never do that. She would rather die. She would rather see all of us die.
+
+[14:19] She would rather kill you than eat in Brooklyn every day for a month. Am I right, Stas? No. No, what? You wouldn't want to eat in Brooklyn?
+
+[14:26] Or you'd rather you would do it? You would do it to save Piper's life? Sure. Wow. Nastash, you are you are a good person.
+
+[14:32] Uh Rory Mearns writes in, pronounced like Burns with an M. Rory Mearns from New Zealand. Hello to the entire cooking issues team and Indie Jesus. Would Indie Jesus listen to cooking issues? Would any form of Jesus ever have any sort of cooking issues?
+
+[14:46] Well, Rory, I don't know if you're aware of this, but uh back in the 90s, I think it was, uh, the group King Missile answered this uh in a song they wrote called Jesus is Way Cool. And uh if you uh remember Jesus is Way Cool, he can bake a cake better than anyone. Remember that? You guys remember that song? No.
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+[15:04] You guys don't know anything about King Missile. I know King Missile, but I know King Missile, but I don't know the song. They had that one uh Detachable Penis, yeah. Everyone listens to Detachable Penis and they don't listen to Jesus' way cool. You can't listen to Detachable Penis without you know going further and listening to the Jesus is way cool.
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+[15:22] It's all about how Jesus, like, you know, would be awesome, like to hang around with. You know what I mean? Because he's way cool. Anyway, uh I assume that's what he was uh referring to. Anyway, uh he's traveling from New York, uh to New York from New Zealand around September, October this year, and I had a couple of questions.
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+[15:38] One, I had some questions a while back about a red pepper sauce that you and your listeners helped me out with. Uh, this is uh product that is sold here commercially, that's New Zealand. So it's totally legit. I'd like to drop off a sample for the cooking issues team to taste and critique if they'd like. I'd love to hear your opinions on this stuff.
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+[15:51] Where would I be able to drop it off? Roberta's Booker and Dax, somewhere else. Matt, just drop it at the bar, Booker and Dacks, right, Stas? Yeah. Yeah, make sure you put my name on it, or those those fools there will just eat it.
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+[16:01] They'll just eat it and be like, oh, we ate this hot sauce. Don't know why I had your name on it. Am I right? Yes. Yeah.
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+[16:07] Okay. Two jackets. While in New York I was hoping what does that mean? Yeah, yeah. Seriously, they're like vultures.
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+[16:13] Vultures and jackals. Any sort of scavengers. Some fly, some crawl. Uh while in New York, I was hoping to pick up a katsubushi shaver, uh, shaver, and hopefully some quality katsubushi. The stuff is not available this far down under.
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+[16:25] Can you tell me where I can go for this? I don't mind spending a bit if I know it will be quality and will last. Okay, so for those of you who uh who don't know uh kind of what we're talking about here, uh Katsobushi is the you know the name of the shaved uh bonito flakes, bonito flakes, which aren't really bonito, they're uh yellow skipjack, they're skipjack tuna. But uh so you know the the the flakes are the bonito flakes that you use to make dashi and innumerable other uh delicious things in Japanese cuisine. Uh so you you know you call that thing uh well various incarnations.
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+[16:56] There are different words for it at every step in the process, katsobushi. So the way it's made is they catch the fish, uh, they uh cook the crap out of the fish, they get the bones out of the fish, they dry the fish, they smoke the fish, they they let it rest, they smoke it, they let it rest, they smoke it, they spray some uh mold stuff on the outside for the really high they can sell it just right away then, but then that's the lower end stuff and then the higher end stuff. They they put a mold on, they age it, and really, really good stuff. You pick it up and you clink it together, and it sounds like uh kind of like wood, like tink tink tink. Amazing stuff.
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+[17:26] My wife bought me some uh from Japan when she went there maybe twelve years ago, and it's the first time I had the actual thing in my hand and not just the flakes. Uh thing was I needed a shaver, much as you do now. The only place I know you can walk into New York and in New York and buy a real uh it's called I believe it's called um a Kuriki so it'd be called like a Katsubushi uh sorry not uh Kizuri um uh Katsu Bushi uh Kazuri and so they the one that they have is at Corin. You should go to Corin anyway. It's a nice store down in Tribeca and it's like you know candy for it's like an amazing place.
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+[18:03] You know, you guys have all been there, right? Yeah. Yeah. What are your thoughts? It's awesome.
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+[18:09] Get your knife sharpening. Yeah. Yeah, yeah. I mean it's an o do you say it's a knife store. See for see people who don't know Piper would be like it's a nice store meaning ah how good could it be?
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+[18:18] It's a knife store. He's like it's a knife store. How bad can it be? who's by the stream. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
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+[18:26] Anyway, so uh go to go to Corin. Um I don't know how the exchange rate is. I mean Corin is, you know, it's more expensive than it was, you know, five years ago because um you know it's our exchange rate's horrible, but I don't know what the exchange rate is right now. The the prices there because they bring the stuff in from Japan are directly tied to whatever our exchange rate with Japan happens to be at that time. But they sell it and I looked online before I came over here and it's about eighty six dollars.
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+[18:50] Now what it is now you can also go by the way they don't sell food. So you're out of luck actually buying that item and the sad news is I have never seen anywhere in New York uh good quality of the solid to purchase of uh the actual katsubushi thing. Um now there are chefs who say they can get it but I'm not really hooked into the sushi uh suppliers right and none of the people that kind of were you know that I worked with when I was learning a lot about um cutting techniques, Nikijime techniques or even when I was doing you know a lot of things with the Gohan Society, none of those people really shaved their own uh flakes at their restaurants that I know of and so and and then when you asked them for sources they were very secretive I guess because there's a limited supply so they never told me where to go get the good stuff. You can go to Sunrise Mart, which is kind of a local Japanese mart, there's a couple of them in New in New York and they a couple of years ago like four or five years ago started carrying um the actual solid ones but they weren't the super highest quality ones like we you know like we saw when we were in Tokyo which were amazing. Alright.
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+[19:53] Second thing is there's extr oh by the way the the shaving block they also at at sunrise sell a really crappy little uh shaver made of plastic and metal stay away from it's useless you can don't don't don't get it. Now if you go on the internet and you look at people shaving it by the way what this shaver looks like is it looks like you took a wooden block plane, flipped it upside down and put it on a box and you shave on top of the box. Almost like a mandolin or a Ben Renner, right? Only it is really sturdy and solid and beautiful because it's you know one of those Japanese things that of course they're going to make it sturdy and beautiful and solid and it has to shave this thing which is incredibly hard this wood like uh piece of dried smoked fermented molded fish. Now I looked at some people who were uh you know doing their YouTube stuff YouTuber y in English and all of them were doing horrible horrible jobs.
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+[20:48] And and by the way when I use mine I do a horrible horrible job. The issues are that the actual moisture content of the katsobushi is critical to getting the shaving right. Otherwise you get little scrum blings of nastiness or like kind of gummy peels. Needs to be just right. Also the technique you use in shaving has to be just right.
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+[21:08] Also, you know, if you're looking at a katsubushi, and you guys all use it, so you know what I'm talking about. Well, if you look at katsuobushi, or if you look at the bonito flakes, we'll call them, you'll notice that a lot of the ones that you buy have kind of a darker stripe running through it. You guys notice that? Yeah. So that's the that's the um that's the chi ai line.
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+[21:26] That's the uh the the blood line that's in the fish. And so you can buy uh two types, well many, but two main types of these bonito flakes other than the quality ratings, and that is you can get them chi aiari, which means there's a bloodline in it, or chianuki meaning there's no bloodline in it. And one thing I've never been able to figure out is whether or not they do some sort of procedure to the actual dried fish and pop out that bloodline or do they uh just shave it in a way that they're not shaving that part of it when they shave that other stuff and they charge more. I have no idea because no one in English has mentioned this stuff. Now the good news is uh once you once you get a hold of this stuff you can learn how to do it if you can watch a bunch of stuff.
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+[22:09] There's an amazing set of videos but they're only in Japanese and I wish someone could translate some of the things. And they're on go to YouTube and search on Fushi taka F-U-S-H-I-T-A-K-A. They have a three-part series and you can see it. They're the ones that have dot M O V in the title. So even you know people like me who don't understand any sort of uh j you know Japanese characters at all you can find these and they're worth watching even if you can't speak a lick of Japanese because the visuals in it kind of show uh how it's done.
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+[22:38] Most interestingly is no one in English that I can see publishes how to properly adjust this cutter once you get it. You need a wooden or leather mallet. And what they do is they set the blade in and then they whack on it with a mallet to get the adjustment just right. And in the video they show you exactly uh how to do it, how to adjust it right, and how to adjust it up or down if the shavings that are coming out of it uh aren't proper. So I highly recommend washing that.
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+[23:04] And they also meant they also show in visual pictures, thank God, that you want to store uh that you want to store them at fifty percent humidity at about 20 degrees C or in a fridge that's wrapped uh in plastic and then in a zippy. Now, another thing is they I know that some people, Wiley told me, Dufrain told me once that they some people he'd seen who had them wrapped them in paper towels, I think moist paper towels, and nuked them for a second. And then in this video I saw them and they had a problem heated over a flame. So I don't know if there's a a trick there or not. Maybe someone who speaks Japanese could watch these videos and kind of tell us what's going on, but uh there you have it.
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+[23:40] So I can give you some love on the actual shaver, but not on the high quality fish itself. We'll have to find someone else who can find us a good source of that. Maybe someone will write in. Okay. Three.
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+[23:48] Well in New York, uh, where would I be able to pick up a dual probe thermometer gadget like those on the Chef Step store? You know the yellow looking things with replaceable probes that everyone seems to use for sous vide. Uh thanks uh for keeping up the good work. I'm looking forward to experiencing all the great food that America has to offer, including American country ham, something I never even heard of before listening to your show. Uh regards Rory Murns.
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+[24:06] Now on the on the probe, the only place I really go uh to buy kitchen equipment like that in New York is uh JB Prince. Now, JB Prints i y again, that's another place everyone should go. You guys have all been to JB Prince, right? We have love for JB Prints. JB Prince, um they don't carry a dual probe thermometer.
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+[24:25] And the other thing about JB Prince is you know, like they g they get a wrap from sometimes from people for being expensive, but the truth of the matter is they only carry kind of uh high end products, and so you can always get something cheaper. You're like you're not gonna be able to get something at JB Prince that's the same price as the one on the Chef Step uh website. Um but they do have a single probe uh thing. The other thing when you're buying a thermocouple probe, a lot of people on like Amazon, for instance, will will say that they have a hypodermic probe that works for Sous vide, and whoever wrote that must have never cooked a damn thing in their entire freaking lives because they they give you a probe that's way too wide and that when you puncture the bag doesn't reseal properly. Piper, you've seen that before, right?
+
+[25:08] Where someone says this is a hypodermic probe and it's it's more like a hammer. We used to put a little piece of rubber over the hole. Yeah, you have to put rubber over the hole anyway, no matter what kind of probe you use. But the ones that like that you had at WD were you know sub millimeter probes. They were thin and extremely fragile, by the way.
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+[25:27] So you never want to use it to check deep fryer oil because it can melt out the uh the thermocouple connections, the actual place where it's bonded together and you the thing is ruined. And those things cost well over, those cost like a hundred bucks or over, uh, like almost anywhere you go. There are things called hypodermic probes that are only a little bit thinner than uh than you know, like a standard instant read, and that you know wouldn't would cause way too big a big of a hole. They're like well over twice as big as the actual hypodermic probes. So I recommend going to JB Prints and looking at the hypodermic probe they have.
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+[26:00] But a secret trick if uh no one ships the product you want to New Zealand is uh you can use your New Zealand uh Amazon account, I think, to order on U.S. Amazon and have the stuff prime shipped to your hotel. And I've done that when I do events even within the United States. I've had stuff prime shipped to the hotel where I'm gonna stay because you know in advance where you're gonna be, and you can ship anything you want from the U.S. there, like that, and hotels will usually hold it, which is a good technique.
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+[26:24] But you should definitely go by JB Prince, and you should definitely go by uh Corin. And if you want to see a really good bookstore, you should go by Kitchen Arts and Letters, right? Anywhere else good that I should think about? Guys, they don't care, they're too hot. They can't even think straight over there.
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+[26:40] Okay. Uh Joshua writes in, I have ropey yogurt. Nastasha, is there anything more disgusting in your mind than ropey yogurt? Nope. Is that a new one?
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+[26:50] I'm gonna start actually, Piper, you have to buy this. There's a yogurt I'll talk about in a minute called Caspian Sea yogurt, uh Matsoni Matsuni, depending on how you pronounce it, that is meant to be ropey, and we can get the culture and make it, and then just make Nastasha look at ropey yogurt all day long. Won't that be fun? I like different textures. I know you do.
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+[27:06] That's like the McGee thing. The McGee thing, now this goes back to like something you know, McGee uh did a long time ago when we started doing the McGee cooking class. One of the things he said was, uh very early, he was interested in talking about is well, bad textures are only bad because we assume they're bad. What if you assume that that texture is good and then accentuated? And so that's when he really started pushing this idea of stretchy ice cream with Celep Danderma, right?
+
+[27:32] And you know, kind of you know, created a uh a whole thing around Celep becoming popular. He also said, Well, what if you really wanted ice cream to have giant crystals in it? Why does ice cream have to be smooth? And he, you know, showed the uh this French ice cream called like pin pin pin needle ice cream that I have to say I'll I'm with him in theory, but I didn't like the pin needle ice cream very much. You guys remember that one?
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+[27:55] Not really. You don't remember it or you didn't like it? I don't remember it. Ah man, it's just looks like in one ear and out the other on people. Uh whatever.
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+[28:02] So the whole point is is that if you push a texture in a certain way on purpose, it can be nice even though it's not what you're expecting. So there's this rope, uh, there's this yogurt that's ropey, that's meant to be ropey, uh, and and the other interesting thing about it is that it uses a melophysic uh sorry, mesophilic culture, meaning that the culture uh goes at low temperatures. You don't need a yogurt maker to do it. You can culture it at room temperatures and it gets this weird ropey uh yogurt. You can buy cultures for it online.
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+[28:30] But anyway, back to the question uh that Josh had. Joshua had. Uh I've been making yogurt recently and have had several batches which turn out a bit ropey slash snot-like. They taste fine, but the texture is not what I would like. My typical procedure is to take milk with a bitter powdered milk added up to 180 degrees Fahrenheit, kills all the stuff that's in, right?
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+[28:49] Cool to 110 degrees Fahrenheit, and add one tablespoon of starter yogurt per quart and incubate at 110 degrees Fahrenheit for six to eight hours. Any idea what causes this rope-like texture? Well, I've never had it happening before, but according to the by the way, ropey texture, well, I'll read you what it is. According to the sensory evaluation of dairy products, edited edited by Stephanie Clark, Michael Costello, and Floyd W. Bodyfeld.
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+[29:15] How often is that guy's name? Floyd Bodyfeld. And uh Marianne Drake, uh, who's very well known. There's uh on page 208, it says there are five major causes for ropey yogurt. Improper gums, meaning improper thickening devices that you're added, but you're not adding a thickener, so that's not your problem.
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+[29:32] Uh microbial contamination, uh, which is probably what's going on. Uh yogurt cultures containing polysaccharide-making bacteria. By the way, all these things add to the same thing. Improper setting temperatures and too much sugar. Now, too much sugar probably is not what you're doing.
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+[29:48] All of the rest of the other ones basically uh add up to this. There's some hydrocolloid being formed in, you know, polysaccharide being formed in your yogurt that's causing the ropey-like texture, right? And either you added that polysaccharide because you're using a thickener or gum, in which case you probably misadded some pectin or something like that that's causing a ropiness in it. Have you ever had a pectango ropey in a yogurt application piper? No.
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+[30:12] What about carragen and scopey? I never had a carrageenango ropey. No, the uh xanthine goes ropey. Yeah, xanthan goes ropey, but pectins when they go bad in certain acidic environments can go ropey if they're not fully set. But you've never had it happen in yogurt?
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+[30:27] No, I never encountered it in yogurt. Okay. Uh so all of these things uh basically point to the fact that there's a polysaccharide happening. Now the question is, is it contamination like a contaminant, bacteria uh or whatever that's floating into your yogurt and causing the ropiness? Or is it the actual yogurt culture that you're using uh that's doing it?
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+[30:49] Now it turns out that you know yogurt most typically is a combination of a um I I can't pronounce it, so like I'm gonna say it and it's gonna be wrong because I've only ever read it, I've never pronounced it. But it's a lactobacillus delbrucci, I think it's pronounced, uh bulgaricus, right? That's the one thing uh that does it. And then the other um uh the other one is uh Streptococtus uh thermo thermophilus. These are the two that are used in normal kind of higher temperature yogurts, like the one that you're doing.
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+[31:18] Now, the lactobacilica, the lactobacillus can like that strain can be either be a kind that produces uh extracellular ropey polysaccharides or one that produces smaller unit polysaccharides that don't form a ropey texture. Surprisingly, you actually want a bit of that ropiness, but you don't want so much of the ropiness that it becomes ropey. So uh the the trick there is um you're probably uh maybe uh doing it at a temperature that's favoring the uh the ropiness, or you're letting it go too long before you chill it down to fridge temperature to kind of stop that acceleration, and you're favoring the balance of the ropey uh ones over the other one. So you could just try switching your starter culture. Uh you could try making sure, like covering it, make sure you're not contaminated, uh, or you could try uh maybe shifting your temperature up a degree or two and then chilling it faster when you're done.
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+[32:10] I don't know if any of those are gonna work, but take a look into that. What do you guys think about that? Anything? Anything? You could try uh switching the milk source to the problem with milk source?
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+[32:20] Well, I mean it could be uh contamination that is existing in the milk before he starts. Well, you heats it up to 180. Most most everything is gonna most everything that's gonna produce a polysacchar like that's gonna croak out before 180. Yeah. Just thinking about uh eliminating uh potential sources of contamination first.
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+[32:41] True, true, true. Gotta eliminate contamination always. Uh okay. Um, second question. I'm also interested in making a lean bread, meaning, I guess, I guess by lean bread meaning only yeast, water, flour, uh salt.
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+[32:56] Um, like a French bowl, with about 50% of the flour as milled brewer's malt, both base malt and specialty kiln malts in order to pair with beers of similar grain bill. Would I need to kill any enzymes in the malt to make this work? Are there any different concerns with working with barley flowers? Any help is much appreciated. Uh okay, well, so this is this is interesting because um because there's people out there who cook with nothing but sprouted grains, right?
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+[33:25] And so presumably these have a lot of diastatic uh activity from the enzymes that they're converted when you sprout it. Uh you know, there's companies that produce a hundred percent sprouted things. Uh but then on the other hand, when you read recommendations for um for baking, if you're actually using diastatic malt powder, right, then they uh advise against not adding too much because then it's gonna convert too much of the starch to sugar and you'll get kind of gummy results in your bread. So I don't know where the balance lies. Because some people are using a hundred percent sprouted grains, and then some people are cautioning against using uh more than a small amount of uh of um you know uh diastatic malt powder.
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+[34:05] I will tell you this, from experience, barley loaves in general are dense little suckers. Uh, you know, they're they're dense it like a hundred percent barley loaves are some dense. And especially the barley that you're using in brewing hasn't been pearled, it's got the husk still on it, and that's gonna be like th like the the the part of the brand there is gonna be like a paparama on your on your gas cells and your bread. And so like if you're doing whole grain kind of unpearled uh barley, I'm assuming that you're gonna be in the area of some dents. Uh and so you're gonna wanna soak the hell out of them, uh, maybe soak them overnight and then grind them that way instead of instead of or maybe pre grinding them like you would for mashing, then uh let them soak in some water and then grinding them further so that the so that the husks have uh you know enough time to hydrate properly.
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+[34:56] Um so I you know, I I I'm kind of at a loss here. I've never done it, uh, but I'm assuming it'll work. Any of you guys have any thoughts? I mean Peter Reinhardt has a lot on sprouted uh sprouted wheat flour, um, but I don't have a lot, you know, the I don't have a lot on this. What do you guys have?
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+[35:14] Is it gonna increase your yeast activity significantly during the uh the rising? Hugely. I mean that's why you add diastatic malt powder in the first place, is to convert in a in a long fermentation time uh you know situation like in a sourdough or something that's gonna be retarded in the fridge. You want to have a uh you know a continual supply of yeast for I mean sugar for the yeast to feed on while they're doing their stuff. And so adding the you know, adding the diastatic malt uh will continuously break down like some of the starch a as a food for the yeast.
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+[35:46] You just don't want to overdo it. But then on the other hand, you have people baking bread that's a hundred percent with this stuff. So I'm gonna need some help from s from some some people out there. I don't know whether it's just a difference because there's so much more higher enzymatic activity in diastatic malt powder versus like your average sprouted grain. But you know, if you want the flavor, what I would do is I would kill off a section of the stuff and then have the like a section of your of your, you know, heat it, kill off a section of the end uh enzymatic activity, and then grind up some and leave it with the enzymatic activity.
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+[36:16] Um, naturally flour, when you have it, some of the stuff was sprouted because it's very rare for you to have, you know, completely uh pure flour. When they're measuring the strength of flour, they use something called the falling number where they take up make a warm slurry of flour and they drop a rod through it and determine how fast it goes down. And what that's a measure of is how much residual enzymatic activity there is in the flour and therefore how much viscosity is broken down by uh the amylase is working on uh the flowers as they're there, but it's not a number that most of us have in it. I wish I had more information on this, but um go take a look at um go take a look at anything that Peter uh Reinhardt has written. He's written a lot of excellent books on bread and he's become over the past couple of years uh kind of a proponent of using sprouted grain uh flowers, so he might have more information.
+
+[36:59] And uh there's a good section on the technical uh uh aspects of flour on bread, a baker's book of techniques and recipes by Jeffrey Hamelman, and a lot of that one's available in Amazon search inside, so you can go to that. Uh lastly, uh Adam Milgram writes in on food safety. Hey Nastasha, Dave and the team, I was wondering if you could help me work out uh if there is a way to tell definitively if something lurking in the back of my fridge is okay to eat or to do something to make it safe. Two recent examples. I had some chicken stock in there for two plus weeks, and it looked and smelled fine, but the prevailing wisdom on the internet is that it only lasts for three to five days.
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+[37:37] Three or five days seems kind of short, but two weeks plus, man. Okay. The other was stewed fruit. Again, smelled fine and no signs of mold or anything, but I have no idea how long it's been hanging around, maybe a month. Is there a process you can do to render anything safe?
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+[37:50] Uh e.g. bring it to X temperature for Y minutes, so that all you need to worry about is taste, or are there other nasties that I need to worry about? Finally, is there any way to test things that you can't easily heat, e.g., mayo, cheese, hummus, etc. FYI, my wife is pregnant. So food safety is becoming an increasingly important issue recently.
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+[38:08] Thank you for your help and your awesome podcast. Adam. Now listen, Adam, when your wife is pregnant, don't fool around. Forget the stewed fruit. Just pitch all that crap.
+
+[38:19] Go crazy. Go ape in your kitchen. You know what I mean? It's like, here's the thing. Like m m most likely nothing is gonna ever happen to you.
+
+[38:27] However, like now is not the time where you want an incautious food mistake to c you know, cause a problem when your wife is pregnant. You guys backing me up on this? I love how close to the edge this dude lives. Yeah, right? I mean, like he's like, Yeah, I got a pregnant wife, I got this like three-week old chicken stock.
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+[38:44] Yeah. Get the new chicken stock. I'm just saying. Like, I went kind of over the topic because, you know, like the consequences of making a mistake at that point are like, you know, I bleached it, I bleached the hell out of everything whenever I was cooking the one good thing, by the way, uh, I would just say there's a pitch, and I've said this before on the show many times. If you don't already own a circulator, when uh when you or your or your wife uh are or you know, close family member are pregnant is the best time to get a circulator if you don't already have it, because then you can still have your rare steaks and you can still have your uh runny poached eggs even when you're pregnant because you can cook them to a hundred percent food safety.
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+[39:23] Just a little pitch for getting a circulator, right? Anyway. I mean I used to do that whenever I didn't have a circulator. I think I had a circulator when my second son was born, so I made that stuff for my wife. But I made that stuff, you know, for anyway, I make that stuff for pregnant people because that's that's awesome.
+
+[39:35] It's an awesome awesome little trick uh to help pregnant people uh keep a little bit of uh food normalcy in their life. Okay. Uh now back to your question at hand. Here's the issue. Um most bacteria uh don't like to uh grow in the refrigerator.
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+[39:50] And in fact, like that the temperature zone for the refrigerator is chosen such that uh you know things don't grow in it or they don't grow in it very rapidly. Now there are bacteria that do grow in the fridge uh that are known to grow in the fridge. Listeria is one of them. And listeria is one of the ones that you really, really, really, really, really don't want to expose your wife to when she's pregnant. Uh now the lucky thing about listeria is that if you take something out of your fridge that's in there, right, and it's had listeria growing on it, then you can uh kill it, wipe it out by just heating the crap out of it, right?
+
+[40:26] Because listeria doesn't produce any uh any anything that can survive heating. It doesn't produce a toxin uh that you know that that you know that stays in the food after it's been heated. So all you need to do is heat it sufficiently to destroy the listeria, and then that food is fine. The problem is going to be with things that produ there's so there are certain uh bacteria that produce enterotoxins, things that you take into your body that uh the that are an actual chemical that causes food poisoning that aren't just uh you know the effect of having uh uh you know the actual uh bacteria inside of you. And some of those are destroyed by heat and some aren't, right?
+
+[41:05] And the the the further complication is is that there are certain strains of some of these bacteria that normally don't grow in the fridge, but uh that there are certain strains that will grow, albeit very slowly, in a fridge. And so if you push something for a long time, right, you know, you can uh get into a situation where these things can grow to levels that are problematic for you. Now, um the the general term for bacteria that grow in the fridge at low temperatures is cycrophilic. I don't know why they call it cycrophilic and not cryophilic or something like that, but it's called cyclophilic because I guess that's the Greek for cold or something like that. Uh and psychophilic bacteria are the ones that ruin your milk, right?
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+[41:48] Even though it's in the fridge, the milk goes bad, those are psychophilic. Those are spoilage bacteria. They're not gonna they're not gonna hurt you. The dangerous ones though are a subsection of the psychophilic bacteria that are called uh psychotrophic. And the thing with those is is that they are actually mesophilic bacteria, ones that grow in kind of normal temperature ranges, that can also retain some of their uh uh their their nasty growing habits in the fridge.
+
+[42:13] And those guys, there are strains of those from your common ones that we always get. For instance, um uh there's a uh uh there's a paper you should take a look at called The Incidence of Foodborne Pathogens in Domesticated Refrigerators. Uh domestic uh not domesticated, that'd be crazy. Like you have a wild refrigerator and a domesticated refrigerator. What am I a dunce?
+
+[42:33] Anyway, domestic refrigerators uh by V Jackson, 2007. Here's what it said. The interior services of household refrigerators are at risk of becoming contaminated with food-borne pathogens, increasing the risk of cross-contamination to other food items, including higher to r uh higher risk ready to eat foods. Um, so they they went and they looked at 342 uh domestic refrigerators, and uh here's what they had to say. Camphylobacter, salmonella, and achuria coli uh O157H7 were not recovered from any refrigerators.
+
+[43:02] But Staphylococcus aureus, which produces uh a, by the way, a uh non-heat labile um uh enterotoxin, was uh recovered from 6.4% of the refrigerators, the stereal monocytogenes uh and uh regular kind of E. coli uh from 1.2% of refrigerators, uh Yersinia and uh enteracolic uh and I can't pronounce it, your ursinia, right, from 0.6% of the uh uh refrigerators. Uh and as a result, uh and as recovered species can survive and grow in refrigerations or conditions of mild temperature abuse, such pathogens may transfer to and develop to clinically significant numbers uh in food in domestic fridges. So they can grow a little bit, so I wouldn't, but again, these are like ones that are sitting there and they can form kind of biofilms and get together with the you know the normal uh pseudomonas, which are like you know, the ones that ruin your milk. Uh and so I would just be wary of uh, you know, most these things aren't going to kill you, but you don't want to give them to your to your wife, you know.
+
+[44:01] Uh in addition, I did some more research and some of the like if you have like temperature abused rice, you can get uh B serious, Bacillus serious, which is one of my favorite words for a pathogen. Uh and that, apparently some strains of it can grow at low temperature. So you really just want to I I wouldn't mess around. What do you guys think? Don't mess around, right?
+
+[44:19] Get a chest freezer. Get a chest freezer, freeze the hell out of everything. But cooking the snot out of everything will get rid of anything that will actually kill you. I don't believe the enterotoxins do life-threatening stuff, but you don't want to, but don't take my word for it. I also everyone hesitates to make uh kind of like pronouncements on things like that where you know safety is a giant issue.
+
+[44:39] Oh, okay. Now back to before we leave, because we're about to leave here, cutting it short so that these guys don't sweat themselves to death. What is it that I'm gonna do? Like what like we gotta decide this right now. Like if we make if we make ninety thousand I got some ideas.
+
+[44:52] Yeah, I guess I I guess I could do the lemonade cleanse, but that's just that's just an absurdity. That's just a physical challenge. I don't have to learn any new cooking techniques or do anything kind of interesting. It's not like going raw vegan. I mean, that was kind of the be all end all, huh?
+
+[45:04] I mean, I can do that again. There's gotta be some fad diets, right? Like paleo, you know, I think online paleo. I've been looking at it. I don't know, man.
+
+[45:13] You tell me, brother. There's um there's also stuff like the baby food diet. Uh what the hell is that? Uh I guess you uh you replace two meals a day with jars of baby food. Um, but that's just absurd.
+
+[45:26] That's not like that's not like a challenge. It's just ridiculous. That's just like, you know, can I eat something that tastes bad? Well, it's also, I mean, you're you're doing some investigation into a diet that actually has some traction with some people in the US. Should we do paleo?
+
+[45:40] Is paleo difficult to s to stick to, though, or is it easy to stick to? Uh do you know what's in the paleo diet? It's like mostly raw meat, I think. All right, here's the thing. All right.
+
+[45:49] Uh if we hit 90,000, I'm gonna do paleo for a week. If we hit a hundred thousand, I'm gonna do paleo for a week, and then lemonade cleanse for a week. If we do a hundred and ten thousand dollars, I'm gonna do raw vegan again for a week, paleo for a week, and lemonade cleanse for a week. You got that, guys? Is that sound fair?
+
+[46:06] Yeah, you'll be at your ideal weight in no time. So the question is you have to do it in order. Like what the worst order would be to do lemonade cleanse, then raw vegan. No, the worst would be worse would be raw vegan, then uh paleo, then lemonade cleanse. Right?
+
+[46:22] That would just be like my body'd be like, what? What? Um, uh, or this is the first time you're tuning in, whatever. I never, never, never welch on a bet. Let me tell you something.
+
+[46:36] I take bets very seriously. If I say something like this, I'm not gonna I'm not that guy who's gonna sneak in some real people food in the middle of my like raw vegan week or the middle of my paleo week, right? Like that's not that's not my style. I'm gonna take it, I'm gonna go ape on it, I'm gonna report it back on cooking issues. So tell everyone that you want me to suffer for uh maximum three weeks straight on this.
+
+[47:00] And let's get some money in, let's get this thing kickstarted, let's get our stuff going. It's important for the museum, which hopefully is gonna be important to all of us in the years rolling forward. Uh thanks for stopping by, guys, and cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on heritage Radio network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes Store by searching Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[47:29] You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritageradio network dot org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Fairway Market, like no other market, a New York City institution that sells the best local, national, and international artisan foods for prices that can't be beat. For more information, visit fairway market.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit HeritageRadion Network.org for thousands more. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:33] This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from Bubba Bubba Ba Bub Bushwick! Yes, we're bubba back. Hey Stas, how are you doing? Okay. Yeah?
+
+[0:41] Uh-huh. Good to have us all here. At the air conditioning, they must have fixed it, huh? Yeah, for you. Oh, nice, just for me.
+
+[0:47] Stas like for me, they just let me sweat my took a salt. Hey, hey, and the engineering guys, we're all here today. How you guys doing? We're good. I'm speaking for everybody.
+
+[0:55] We're good. Oh, nice. I like to speak for everyone over there. Listen, so since we last spoke on the air, Mofad made its uh goal on the Kickstarter. Yay!
+
+[1:08] Uh yeah, in fact, we made it through it. And if you go to the Kickstarter page, you can see uh what we did, and our numbers were actually slightly better than that because a couple of um people donated from foundations, uh, you know, personal foundations that can only give checks. So I think it's there too. I'm super excited. And what that means is that in late August, uh we are actually gonna wheel this sucker out and uh gonna blow some stuff up on the streets, you know, in front of the kids.
+
+[1:34] Kids love the blowing up stuff, right? Mm-hmm. And uh we're gonna have when's the puffing party. Do you remember Stas? Yes, August 13th.
+
+[1:39] Yeah, and there's uh I believe that there's still space available. I don't know how we're gonna sell it. Go to MoFad.org. That's MoFed.org for more information. But it should be fun.
+
+[1:47] We got a whole bunch of Andy Rickers gonna be there. A lot of good people. Is Why are they coming? Uh yeah. I think so.
+
+[1:53] Anyway, a lot of good people are coming. I don't want to meet if I start mentioning people, then uh you mention me, man, me, so I'm not gonna mention anyone, right? Okay. Corner question two, seven one eight, four nine seven two one two eight. That's seven one eight four nine seven two one two eight.
+
+[2:04] By the way, uh, we made good enough numbers on it that I have to do that lemonade cleanse. We now yeah, anyone what's the exact deal on the lemonade cleanse? It's uh two tablespoons fresh squeezed lemon juice. Yeah. Two tablespoons of maple syrup.
+
+[2:17] Yeah, uh one tenth teaspoon cayenne pepper, and ten ounces filtered water. You have to drink it six or more servings daily. The only other options are a salt water flush of two teaspoons salt mixed in a quart of water in the morning, and herbal laxative tea at night if needed. Where do you where do you flush that? Is that go in the in the front end or in the back end of the salt water flush?
+
+[2:37] After this, you should slowly ease back into eating solid food, starting with items such as vegetable soup, followed by fruits and vegetables. Oh my gracious. How long do they say to do it? Four to fourteen days. Ah, so I'm right in the sweet spot there.
+
+[2:49] Seven days in the sweet spot. That's gonna suck. So uh uh Stas and I have to figure out uh kind of a week where I don't have to do any cocktail development and where I have no demos. I think it's next week because everybody at MoFad's starting theirs next week. And you don't have anything next week.
+
+[3:05] I have no I have no demos, no nothing, so I'll do all my cocktail development and all that this week. Make sure I don't have any uh dinner engagements to go to. You still have to do the radio show though. Yeah. Oh yeah, I'll be in the middle of uh of a uh maybe I'll start Monday.
+
+[3:18] That you're starting paleo next week. No, no, I can't start paleo in a week because I have to do a lot of research. Back to this, I'm taking paleo much more seriously than most idiots are gonna take paleo. So, like I already dusted off my old book on flint mapping, which is the technique of making stone tools. And I'm trying to figure out exactly what kind of paleo you want to go.
+
+[3:36] It's kind of absurd to just say something is paleo because paleolithic people ate a wide variety of things depending on where they lived, what the climate was, etc. So, for instance, if you're gonna take the Neanderthal culture, Neanderthal culture, primarily meat eating culture, although they did have a wide range of plants that they used. I was reading all the recent literature on um studies of the dental calculus of Neanderthals, uh plus isotopic studies of their bone structure to figure out the relative uh kind of different things that they ate. Uh also huge chunks of Neanderthal ate the meat kind of raw, which is straight up nasty. Like, imagine giant chunks of kind of raw like deer, not like thin carpaccio stuff.
+
+[4:13] Anyway, so uh I might tr choose a culture to emulate like uh like there's the uh airtaburla culture, which is like a Swedish culture that was one of the last um, you know, pre-agricultural communities in Europe. They had a fairly high fish-based diet, uh, and their tools look relatively easy to manufacture. Anyway, I dusted off the flint napping. Flintnapping, I gotta learn how to I'm gonna learn how to make my own uh tools. I meant to do it with Dax a while ago, but it just looks too damn complicated.
+
+[4:40] Now I guess I have a reason to do it. So I have to do a bunch of research before I can do the actual paleo one. We're gonna have to same with the raw food. Remember, I did raw food? Uh for like like very short, almost had to do the raw food again.
+
+[4:52] I'm glad I didn't have that one added to it. So I'm gonna do the lemonade cleanse first because I don't have to do any research for that one. Right? Mm-hmm. So more anyone has any suggestions on uh on the paleo.
+
+[5:02] Uh I kind of want to make my own fire as well as my own tools, but my wife said that uh I couldn't do that, so I don't know whether I'm either gonna have to convince her in slow drips and drabs to let me do it or not. Um but anyway, so uh more more word on exactly kind of which Paleolithic uh diet. Uh luckily, these air these uh air tabola guys, a lot looked up the list of plant stuff that's been found in their kitchen mid insights. They ate a lot of shellfish, easy for me to get, but also a lot of plants that I can wild forage in uh the Lower East Side. Like uh they ate a variant of Lamb's Quarters, which I can easily get in the Lower East Side as a as a non-domesticated product.
+
+[5:36] Well, we'll see. We'll figure I'll figure out exactly what the structure is. Um so yeah, so I can't do paleo next week. Okay. That's the that's the the previous was the long explanation of why I can't do paleo next week.
+
+[5:48] Because I want to do it right. If I do it right, it's useful information for us to have for the museum anyway. So there you go. Okay. So real quick from the station too.
+
+[5:55] Yeah we've got our huge fundraiser on August 11th, so I hope that the Cooking Issues fans in New York can make it. But for those that can't, and I know this is a very nationwide show, we're offering a really, really cool raffle. Ten dollar tickets, and you can win a dream foodie trip to Seattle. All expenses paid uh from Tom Douglas, friend of the station. He's got some great restaurants out there.
+
+[6:17] So uh visit our website or HRN Hawaii BBQ.eventbrite.com and get some raffle tickets. Get all over the place. Hawaii barbecue and trip to Seattle. Yeah, well, you know. It's the Hawaii like the West.
+
+[6:30] No, they're on the way, kind of. I I guess it's on the way. Can you go direct? Can you go direct if they if they want to? Probably.
+
+[6:37] Probably. Anyway. All right, quote your question is two. 718497, 2128, that's 784972128. Aaron Morin, it's looks like it's pronounced Morant, but they said more and from Ed uh Edmonton, uh, Alberta, uh, writes in, Dear Zappo's lover and rap hater.
+
+[6:51] So I would be rap hater and Stas would be Zappa's lover. Although I have to say, for the record, like I tease her about Zappos, but she is a firmly committed to the Payless Shoe Corporation. She purchases all of her shoes from the pay. You know why? She loves that uncured glue smell that they have inside of the pay list.
+
+[7:08] I mean, like you any anytime you walk into it, you could blindfold someone and and like throw them in the middle of a payless store and they'd be like, payless. Because, you know, part of the part of the thing, you know, that part of the way you pay less is they don't wait for the glue to dry before they ship the shoes out. You know what I'm saying? And Style just grooves on that, you know. She doesn't she doesn't, you know, she doesn't like the other toxic uh kind of female things like nail polish and all that stuff.
+
+[7:33] I never smell that stuff in the office. But payless, boom. Okay. Uh anyway. Uh I'd love to hear Dave talk about micron sizes and how they affect texture on the tongue.
+
+[7:42] I seem to remember hearing that we can detect as little as 50 microns, uh, but that could be way off. What's the difference between a 400 micron super bag and a 100 one? Why wouldn't you just use a 100 bag for everything? What's cheese uh straining usually at as far as microns are concerned? Thanks in advance, Aaron uh Morin.
+
+[7:59] Okay. First of all, uh so m micron is a unit of measure. Uh a micron is one thousandth of a millimeter, also called uh a mic uh micrometer, micro, you know, anyway. So uh but microns are typically how you measure things like very small sieves, uh, you know, sieves, sieves. What do you like?
+
+[8:18] Civ or sieve? Civ. Sieve? Yeah, okay. Uh and uh also like particle size and things like ice cream or chocolate.
+
+[8:26] Now, I have always kind of used as my benchmark for ultimate smoothness on the tongue, uh, this size range that's used in chocolate manufacturer. In chocolate manufacturer, you typically want to get below uh twenty microns, right? So twenty-one thousandths of a millimeter is about the ultimate large size particle that you want in your chocolate bar before your chocolate bar starts having textural problems on the tongue, right? This stuff being kind of ultra smooth. And so that's kind of the the the number I always use for kind of below which your tongue can't taste anything anymore.
+
+[9:02] Now, in ice cream, a lot of people point to larger numbers like 40 microns as being the maximum ice crystal size that they want in a smooth textured ice cream. I haven't done a lot of studying on that because I've always just accepted that the 20 micron as being the number. Now, Vitaprep, which is the blender that we use, can get particle sizes down between 20 and 40 microns, so in the smooth-ish range, but not in the like I doubt if you can actually get to 20. But it's a it's above 20, but it's quite small. I doubt it can get it can't get below 20 to get into the much much smoother range of stuff.
+
+[9:40] So for that you need um for that you need uh like a high shear, super high shear mixer. But the other thing about it uh with a Vitapep is you still need to use a sieve or like a super bag, as you say, because not all of the particles uh get you know blended down to the same thing, especially fibers tend to orient as they go, and so you have longer and larger particles that you can taste on the tongue. Now, uh so clearly if if if 40 microns is the cutoff for ice crystals and uh and your smallest super bag is 100 microns, uh you're not gonna get all of the particles out of something that's finely blended with a hundred micron super bag. The other problem is is that uh when you put a slurry or a slop or something into into a filter, it tends to clog up the filter. Um, and and that is kind of one of the main problems in filtration.
+
+[10:28] Just for your edification as well, just so you can get an idea of micron size. Uh, coffee filters in general are about 20 microns, the opening, and they let through particles uh, you know, are in the roughly 10 to 15 uh micron range. So that's kind of what what coffee is. So you're talking about chocolate 20 microns, ice cream crystals, 40 microns, coffee filter, 20 microns, and super bag like the finest one at 100. Now, just because it's a hundred microns, which is large relative to some of these things, doesn't mean it can't strain out a lot of finer things.
+
+[11:02] Because in general, when you're cooking something, you uh things tend to aggregate, particles tend to aggregate together, and also larger particles tend to start clogging up the holes, and when that happens, finer particles get filtered out by the larger things. It's called forming a filter bed. So you want to use in general the coarsest uh thing that makes your product as smooth as you want it. Is that make sense to us? Uh-huh.
+
+[11:27] Right. And so one of the reasons to use multiple filters in a situation, right, is if you were to try and shove a liquid through a coffee filter, which is at 20 microns, right, uh, and it's all full of gloppy stuff. Let me just tell you, good luck. Because you're gonna be there all freaking day, right? Trying to get that stuff out of there.
+
+[11:45] So one valid way to do it would be to take a and by the way, one of the advantages of super bags is that you the super bags are kind of shaped like pots and they can withstand heat. So you just stick the super bag into the pot, cook the stuff in without ever agitating it, so you're not knocking little particles all around your product, and then you can just lift the whole sucker out and not have a problem. Now, why you might want to use multiple ones is you would put the coarse one inside of the fine one, right? And then as you lifted it, right, larger particles would be held by back by the faster draining coarse guy, and then smaller particles will be held up in the uh finer guy, and you would be able to filter stuff much more quickly. So it often when I'm filtering something, I'll take two different levels of filtration and stack them coarse first, then fine, because it just rapidly increases the rate at which you can filter things, and that's a huge deal when you're doing large quantities of product that take a long time to filter.
+
+[12:40] Um anyway, like uh actually it's interesting. I just wrote the section of the cocktail book on kind of clarification and I went through filtration, which I really hate. I really hate filtering things. Um I also tend and you know, I've never actually used, and this is a little, you know, whatever disclaimer, I've never used the actual expensive super bags. I always use paint straining bags, which are also micron rated, because as anyone that's met me knows, I'm a cheap bastard, right?
+
+[13:09] That's very true. Super cheap. Well, of course, no one's cheaper than Nastasha. That's not true. Uh you are.
+
+[13:14] Uh I'm not cheaper than you. You are so much cheaper than that. When was the last time I returned a piece of clothing? Yeah, that's a not that's not cheapness, that's something else. I don't know what I'm talking about.
+
+[13:22] All right, right. Fair enough. Okay. Uh Matthew writes in regarding pork rinds. Hey, Nastasha and crew.
+
+[13:27] I had a drink of booker in Dax for the first time recently. Tried the hatchback and it was killer, strong and delicious. Uh I wouldn't be mad if I had a stockpile of those and the uh bottle of Manhattan's up in my refrigerator. I was uh and then here's the question. Well, thank you.
+
+[13:39] Uh I was wondering if it is possible to make a puffed chicharron from bacon skin. My company goes through boatloads of slab bacon every week, and besides making stock with the skin, I'd be thrilled to find another use. Thanks, Matthew. I don't see why you can't uh do it. I mean, what I would do is uh cut off the skins, right?
+
+[13:56] The only issue you're gonna have is if you have a cure that has a lot of sugar in it. Sugar is the enemy of uh pork rinds. And many, many times I've uh made pork rinds. A couple of times I've tried to add sugar to the boil water when you when you make it, and it's just a freaking nightmare. It's just a it's just a real giant nightmare.
+
+[14:15] So if you want to make uh kind of American snack food style pork rinds, here's what you're gonna want to do. Uh cut the um, you know, take the bacon uh skins off. You're gonna want to boil them in water. I don't know how much salt you're gonna have to add, depends on the residual salt level of your bacon, but you want uh you know enough salt in there so that when you puff them, you don't have to add a lot of extra salt and the flavor's already in the skin. Uh you might want to add a couple cubes of bacon or whatever to keep the smoky flavor, or else keep the water level down so you're not diluting the smoke uh that's in the in the skins too much.
+
+[14:47] Uh you want to cook them for a long time, uh like 45 minutes or something like that. Simmer them till you because the what the goal here is to convert all of the collagen or roughly all of the collagen to gelatin. Now, here comes the part that I hate doing. You gotta gently drain them off because they're right now because they're hot gelatin with a little bit of pro other stuff mixed in uh and fat, they're extremely fragile at this point. So you want to let drain them off and then uh put them on uh cooling racks and cool them down until they are fridge temperature.
+
+[15:20] Let them cool. They will reset and become a lot less fragile. Now, the super unpleasant part, you flip them fat side up and you scrape down the excess fat on the back side of the uh of the pork rind of the pork skin. Now, if you don't scrape the less scrape uh fat you scrape off, the denser your chicharron will be. And the more you scrape off down to the skin, don't scrape the skin, but the fat layer, the the uh more you scrape off, the puffier and more like snack bag pork rinds your pork rinds are gonna be.
+
+[15:53] After you uh do that, after you scrape it down, now you want to chop them into the size. Everyone makes them a little bit larger, but they don't realize quite how much they're gonna puff when they puff up. Uh so you know, make a couple different sizes the first time you do it, so you can kind of see what's going to go on. Now you're gonna want to dehydrate them. The real trick here is not to over dehydrate.
+
+[16:12] You want to dehydrate them until they're down to like a shrinky dink or like pasta and and no more. So what you do is you throw them in a dehydrator. I throw them in, usually I start them kind of high, like at 135 degrees Fahrenheit, run the dehydrator for a while, and I look at it. When it starts losing the white rawhide look and starts starts going translucent, I usually turn the temperature down, and then um I never let them run when I'm gone from the kitchen. I'd rather just do the initial dehydration and kind of turn it off overnight or turn it down to like a hundred or ninety overnight or something like that, and just let it run with the fan on it and not extra heating, and it should carry it the rest of the way.
+
+[16:49] Do a test fry. Uh, and once you do a test fry on one or two, uh if it if when you fry it, it doesn't puff at all and just browns without puffing. What's happened is is you've over dehydrated it and you need to get some moisture back into it, which is very difficult. If you if it puffs somewhat but the inside has a hard kernel in it, then it's not dehydrated enough yet, and you have to do more. So you gotta you gotta you know just run that test.
+
+[17:14] Once you do it once or twice, you'll get the exact feel of what the pork rind should feel like when they're done. Uh, and then you just store them in a quart container or airtight, and they're good for a long time until they until they go rancid, they last for a long time, they last for a long time, a long, long time. Uh but uh what I would do is do it once or twice yourself and then get someone else to do it because uh it sucks. Yeah? Remember how like our hand I mean, maybe it's better with bacon, but you remember how like we would all stink stas like like pork skin?
+
+[17:43] Yes, like a freaking glue factory? Yes. It's nasty. Anyway, let's take a commercial break, coming back with cooking issues. Hi, I'm Steve Jenkins from Fairway Markets.
+
+[18:04] I've devoted my idiot career to the old ways, the old recipes, the old tools, the old geography of where serious foods come from for centuries. And I've strived to make these wonderful things available to New Yorkers for thirty-seven years. So it's a feta compli for us to support Heritage Radio Network. And I hope you will too, and I hope you'll keep tuning in. For more information, please visit Fairway Market dot com.
+
+[18:42] EO Jack, did he say idiot career? Um yes, he did. This is Joe, but he uh yeah, I think he's got a little self-deprecating streak in there, right? Yeah, no, newfound respect. I love someone who calls their actually quite influential.
+
+[18:56] I mean the man has a hugely influential uh has had a hugely huge influence on the cheese on the cheese movement here in the US. I mean giant influence. Yeah, I would I mean I personally would not say it's an idiot career, but um, you know, I'm not him. I mean I'm I'm kind of glad he had that that career. I mean people people nowadays because like you know, er like you know, y it's not easy, but you can go out and get, you know, decent cheese in many, many places across the country now.
+
+[19:21] Forget that when he first wrote his cheese primer, you know, Fairway. There was a number of places you could buy high quality cheese in in New York, but even a lot of the places that had large selections weren't keeping the stuff as well as they were keeping it at Fairway. They weren't providing uh a product kind of a as the same quality level Fairway was providing. This is like decades ago. And so he you know, he wrote the cheese primers kind of a game changer, big deal.
+
+[19:45] Anyway, my feeling. Uh Brandon Hodgins writes in about Bratwurst. You like some bratwurst, right? Mm-hmm. Yeah, Bratwurst good stuff.
+
+[19:53] When you uh were at uh where'd you go when you went to Germany? You went to Germany. October is you had a lot of Wurst? Mm-hmm. God, I love German Wurst.
+
+[20:01] Something about German Wurst, they they can get the you know, the skins on them, they pop when you pipe into them, and then that explosion of juice and fat from a delicious Wurst. Oh my god. So good. Anyone that hates on uh kind of Teutonic cuisine, German cuisine, like, okay, if you're not a sausage lover, or if you don't like cartoon poofers or like potato pancakes, or you don't like a bit, but stuff is straight up delicious. I'm sorry.
+
+[20:25] I'm sorry. Uh okay. Hello, cooking issues team. I had a few brats questions. How many brats per zippy?
+
+[20:31] In other words, if you're going to cook bratwurst uh low temperature and you're gonna pre-cook them in a Ziploc bag, which is something I very highly recommend, right? How many can you fit in? Well, I guess it depends on exactly how what size the brats uh are, but I would guess uh and also depends on how you're gonna serve. If you plan on doing mass service out, then I usually put like uh I want to say five probably. I use gallon size bags, like five or six.
+
+[20:55] I can't try to imagine how many brats would fit you. You can only fit one in in a direction, you know what I'm saying, Stas? Like you can't fit two. So you probably five or six, maybe, then a little bit of uh oil or fat, and then do the water seal on the brats, cook them off at like uh sixty, I usually do sixty uh Celsius, which is like 140 Fahrenheit, which is still like you know, pinkish and a little underdone, but remember you're going to grill them off when you're done. You know what I'm saying?
+
+[21:22] Um so I would say about that. And how long can I hold them in a bath before the texture goes off? Long time on bratwurst. You can hold those suckers a long time. I mean, I've never h held them longer than uh a whole service, which is like you know, uh six hours or something like that.
+
+[21:37] But I'm sh uh but they at the end they were just as good as they were at the beginning. So, in other words, uh uh for those of you that don't know, when you're doing low temperature cooking and you're holding meat for a long time, it doesn't overcook in a traditional sense, it doesn't get tough or dry. What happens is the texture gets a little bit mushy. Uh and I haven't had that happen in like the length of a service when I'm cooking something like uh like brats, you know. And they also initially think about brats, they cook through rather quickly because they're not that thick.
+
+[22:04] Do you know what I'm saying? Uh so that it it's a fantastic thing to do, just get a grill like a billion freaking degrees, and then uh and then have your your brats and zippies and and and go. Okay. Uh, but I will also say this if you want to do more traditional, or in other words, if you don't want to use zippies for whatever reason, you can actually cook brats off in a circulator in an open bath style, but even if you're gonna do beer brats, right? What I recommend doing is uh pre-make uh kind of a beer stock out of it, so just get some like uh like sacrifice a couple of the bratwurst bratwurst, break them up and cook them off in the beer so that the beer soaks up brat flavor, and then uh eventually the broth gets to the point where it's not adding or subtracting bratness from the bratwurst because I remember once uh I forget who it was.
+
+[22:53] Do you remember? Were you with me at the time, Stas, when I had to do the hot dog water thing for some magazine? What magazine was that? Some magazine was like, hey, is the hot dog water in uh in a in a New York City dirty dog? Is that safe?
+
+[23:04] Is it safe? So I went and um, you know, we gave the guy like two bucks or something like that, and I was like, I don't want a hot dog, just give me a cup of your hot dog water, please. And the guy was like, two bucks is two bucks. So he hands us a cup of the hot dog water. First thing we did is shove the thermometer in it to determine that in fact it is at a safe holding temperature, right?
+
+[23:20] Uh and then I drank it to see kind of what I thought the flavor uh stuff was, you know, the flavor profile was gonna change with a hot dog based on holding it in the water. And the good news from a flavor standpoint is that because the guy was cooking hot dogs all day, the broth tasted more like a hot dog than a straight hot dog did. It was crazy. It was like it was like the liquid essence of hot dog, much better than when the interns made that hot dog vodka, which sucked. Okay.
+
+[23:42] But the um so anyway, so uh that's another uh thing you can circulate, just put like a wrap some cheesecloth around your circulator in case something breaks, you don't want to get it sucked in, uh, and circulate uh circulate beer or you know, brat stock, and then you can keep it in that. And the good news with that is you don't need to bust open these bags all the time, and you can just take, you know, you load brats in one side, load them out the other, and that's the way I would do it if you're gonna do, let's say 400. You know what I mean? In in a day or something like that. Because then you just have your trough running, you load in the front, just keep pushing FIFO.
+
+[24:16] By the time you pull the ones out of the front, the ones in the back are cooked out and you're good to go. Yeah? Make sense? Okay. What is my favorite sauerkraut?
+
+[24:23] Well, uh, I mean, my favorite purchased sauerkraut is that you can get in any kind of supermarket, well, any supermarket, in like Whole Foods is uh Bubbies. I think Bubby's is delicious sauerkraut. You guys like Bubbies out there? Yeah, I'm getting some nods, getting some nods. Bubby's delicious sauerkraut.
+
+[24:41] Uh the pickle guys, there's a couple, there's I live in the lower east side of New York, so there's a bunch of uh, you know, there's a couple pickle places, and the pickle guys, which are on Essex Street and uh just south of Grand, also have a delicious sauerkraut, which they sell by the court. I love that stuff. Sauerkraut, also extremely easy to make yourself. Um, anyone who's ever tasted an actual straight fermented, non-pasteurized, i.e., never heated, with no preservatives added, uh, sauerkraut, hasn't tasted uh sauerkraut the way I like it. Now I like traditional, like kind of like chakrote where they cook the stuff off with pork and all that crap, but just like a super fresh, and this is the one raw food thing that I was actually happy to eat when I was on my raw food diet, was like pounds and pounds of uh kind of unpasteurized, uncooked uh new kraut they call it's pretty fresh.
+
+[25:31] You don't need to soak it before it doesn't have a lot of salt in it. Uh it has enough salt to you know make it sauerkraut, but anyway, so uh look for Bubbies, and if you taste Bubbies, you know what I like, and then you know, find other ones or make ones uh like yourself. You know what's strange, Sas? I actually like uh, you know, I've made red cabbage sauerkraut and uh white cabbage sauerkraut. I think I I prefer I prefer the white.
+
+[25:51] Do you prefer white cabbage to red cabbage? Yeah, I do. I think it tastes better. That's my feeling. Anyway, okay.
+
+[25:58] Uh Tom Fisher writes in regarding ice cream. Uh dear Dave, Nastasha, Jack Joe. Uh first, congratulations on funding the Mofad Kickstarter. Can't wait to get my puff pack this fall. Me neither.
+
+[26:10] Jen's like, my my wife, she kicked in money aside from me. She's like, I want my t-shirt and tote bag. You wait you're gonna Stas is just gonna Staz is gonna like just stockpile those things like a like a like a chipmunk. She's gonna like stuff them in her cheeks like a chipmunk. Oh, speaking of uh Booker's hamster died.
+
+[26:26] Yeah, I know. That's sad, right? Yeah, yeah, kid's first pet dead. Okay. Uh how do I get into that?
+
+[26:33] It's nothing to do with cooking. Okay. I'm a big fan of ice creams and have been making much more since I've got my centerfuge and can make much fresher tasting juices for ice cream without chunks of fruit. Does anyone really like chunky ice cream, Stas, do you? No.
+
+[26:45] You know what's uh disappointing is like, do you like here's the thing like I want to like things that have like chunks of fruit in, but texturally they're irritating. You know what I mean? Those chunks because they're always kind of stringy. And then they that little gummy thing separates off from the fruit where the fruit and the ice cream mix. And Nastash is making her her chunky ice cream face very closely related to her vegan face.
+
+[27:04] Extremely closely related. Only a real conycente of of Stas's uh nasty faces uh can tell the difference between the chunky ice cream face and the vegan face. Uh anyway, I'm curious about flavoring ice cream with fruit juices. I assume the citrus ice creams won't work due to high acid content. Is there a way around this?
+
+[27:22] Is there any technical reason there aren't more diversity in ice cream flavors? I never see watermelon, pomegranate, grape, apple, cherry, blackberry, or blueberry ice creams. Is this just for historical cultural reasons, or is there any reason these fruits won't work? Thanks, Tom Fisher. Well, uh, I mean, so if you want to look, don't look to ice cream, right, for what you're talking about.
+
+[27:41] Look to uh Sherbet. You like Sherbet, Stas? Yeah. Yeah, it's good, right? And I think one of the reasons is a lot of the flavors that you're talking about, if you're gonna make uh a highly flavored item, you're gonna have to add so much of that juice that there's not enough room left in the liquid base of your ice cream to man to make it uh ice cream anymore, right?
+
+[28:02] So I mean, you know, if a traditional ice cream texture, you know, is for me, uh, you know, half, you know, ha like 500 mils milk, five hundred mil uh mils cream, uh, 10 egg yolks, and 170 grams of sugar plus flavor, right? So if you were how are you gonna do that when you're adding a lot of fruit juice to it, unless you're using uh concentrates. And if you're using concentrates, you can get away with it, and I've done that quite a bit. Like you can, I mean, okay, whatever. I know this is gonna sound like you know, real kind of lowbrow, but if you go buy Welch's uh grape concentrate in the store, it's an extremely high bricks, like 66.
+
+[28:38] You can c you can formulate a fairly good straight ice cream out of that uh by uh upping the cream content. It has a little bit lower milk solids, but whatever. So but traditionally the milk based product that you make um with high fruit contents are sherbets, and they have all of those different flavors in them, and they have milk. The trick is adding your acidic products right uh right before you freeze. Because uh you what you don't want to have happen is you don't want the uh the milk might curdle, whatever, but you don't want it to curdle and form large particles uh in it before you uh churn it, right?
+
+[29:13] The other alternative uh you could do, which tastes delicious, but please don't freaking call it ice cream, is like a froyo thing where the whole thing's already set. Don't you hate it when people try their like they're like this stuff tastes like ice cream? No, it doesn't, it tastes like frozen yogurt, which is delicious, but it's not ice cream. Freaking hate that stuff? No tangents.
+
+[29:29] I like ice cream. I like your I like froyo though. Yes. Do you like froy? Yes, I do.
+
+[29:33] No? Okay. Uh so anyway, so yes, you can uh acidify it, and there's plenty of uh recipes out there for things like lemon ice cream. The reason is lemon uh you can add in small enough quantities if you add zest and uh and or you know, extract and juice, uh it'll succoral curdle, but you can um you can add enough of it to not throw off your ice cream balance uh and still get the the flavor. So look at Sherbet recipes for these kinds of things.
+
+[29:58] I think you're gonna find what you want. They typically, because they have less fat in them and lower milk solids content, lower solids content in general compared to ice cream, they tend to have a higher sugar content in them than uh than most ice creams. Another thing you can formulate that's really, really, really freaking good is uh coconut milk uh based uh sorbet with fruit juices. And I do that all the time. Like, you know, get a can of uh coconut cream actually, and for instance, passion fruit juice, bang.
+
+[30:25] Ice cream, you know, sorbet. Good. Um so anyway, so I would do that. If you want, if you're worried about it, you can also stabilize your ice cream. Remember, uh stabilize your base.
+
+[30:34] So make your base uh your your milk-based base, milk or cream-based base. And by the way, most people make uh sherbits with uh milk uh just because I think it's cheaper and it's supposed to be kind of a lighter product, but you could just make it with cream instead of with milk, and so basically cream and fruit juice and sugar and get it done. So I was like, I don't care about ice cream. Anyway, uh so give that a try and tell me uh tell me uh kind of uh what happens. Right?
+
+[30:59] Yeah. Okay. Uh now we got a call in from Shinderhannis, one of our earliest readers on the cooking issues blog. Did he expect us to answer this on the air, or is this just uh in general? I don't think he listens to the show.
+
+[31:12] I think he's just a blog reader. Anyway, uh this goes out to Schinderhannis. Uh he says, Hey Nastasha, you are the only person whose email address I have found from the orbit of Dave Arnold. Like that? Okay.
+
+[31:23] I posted a comment on the Bangkok daiquiri posting cooking issues, but I fear it might be overlooked since the blog is hibernating a bit. I know, I know. Here's a wild idea of mine. Uh have you ever tried degassing your spirits? Now, for those, before we get into this, Bangkok daiquiri uh is um the kind of the first thing I put on the uh menu at Booker InDAX.
+
+[31:42] They use a technique called uh nitrile muddling. And nitro muddling is where you you take an herb, and in the case of the Bangkok Dacri, it's Thai basil, which I love, uh, you add liquid nitrogen to it, and you crush it to a fine powder, and then you add liquor to it. And the reason uh you do that is because uh you what you want to do is get all the alcohol into the leaf before it thaws out. If you don't, uh the polyphenol oxidase enzymes in the in the leaf will instantly turn the Thai basil kind of a black color. It'll taste oxidized and crappy and swampy.
+
+[32:16] And the same thing happens with a lot of other uh, you know, leaves like mints, other kinds, but any kind of herb like that that blackens when you crush it, uh, you know, instead of muddling it, we nitromuddle it. Nitrumuddling also makes the particle size extremely small, which means that you get a very, very fast infusion of flavor and you get these brilliant, brilliant colors out of nitro muddling. So if you do purple basil, you get these incredibly purple drinks. Thai basil is like a bright, bright green. Uh, and so it's a really good technique for that.
+
+[32:43] Now, uh one of the things is is if you take spirits, right, regular spirits, and you just blend them in a blender with uh basil, you can get a similar result, but there's a lot of oxygen that's whipped into it before the alcohol can uh before the alcohol can take uh nuke the polyphenol oxidase enzymes. And um, and so you it's a slightly more oxidized flavor than you would get if you make it with nitro muddling. Anyway, so that's the background on what we're talking about with Bangkok Dakaris. Okay. Schinderhanis writes Have you ever tried degassing your spirits?
+
+[33:15] All common solvents contain dissolved oxygen. In many sensitive chemical reactions, it is a major problem. Schinderhannis is a k is a Shinderhannis is a chemist, by the way. Uh okay. Uh what you need to do is degas the solvents.
+
+[33:27] The simplest way to do this is to bubble argon gas through it for like 10 minutes with a thin tube or syringe needle. It rips out all the other gases and saturates the liquid with inert argon. If you want to speed it up, you can do it in a sonicator, which is an ultrasonic bath cleaner. Okay. This eliminates the molecular oxygen that many enzymes need to do their dirty work.
+
+[33:49] Okay. Also, argon is a lot heavier than air, so a layer of argon is formed in the bottle of degas solvent that nicely protects it. After pouring some liquor, simply exchange the air in the bottle with new argon, and the remaining stuff in the bottle stays degassed. This might further improve the quality of sensitive cocktails. You might even want to fill the headspace of sensitive cocktails in high glasses with argon.
+
+[34:09] Unfortunately, I do not have time to try this. Maybe it is a bummer and schnaps without oxygen tastes awfully lame. That's a good point. How much oxygen does it affect the flavor? But maybe it is the next big thing, and you will find bottles of argon can be bought for TIG welding or for scuba diving.
+
+[34:23] It is real cheap. We'll be in every pub, starting with Booker and Daxon. No time. Thanks a bunch. Shinderhannes.
+
+[34:28] Okay. I have not tried that. I mean, there's um there's an there's uh that new product that uses argon to purge the head spaces of uh wine bottles so that they don't go bad. I've I've tried that. I've tried nitrogen bubbling as a distillation technique because you if you bubble long enough the gas out, you keep uh making a new head space above it, and so you can strip flavor.
+
+[34:51] My only thing is I'd be wonder I'd wonder like uh how much flavor stripping you get out of the product through the initial 10 minutes of debobbling. I would think not much, because in my in my testing when I was trying to see whether I could do uh flavor distillation with nitrogen as opposed to using um normal like rotary evaporation, it was very, very inefficient from a time standpoint to get the stuff. So I would assume that you wouldn't lose that much through the initial bubbling. I don't know. It'd be interesting because then what you could do is like uh you could actually do probably a long-term infusion of something like uh herbs.
+
+[35:29] I don't know. I'd have to test it. What do you think, Stas? Yep. She's like, I don't care.
+
+[35:34] I don't care. All right. Uh all right. So uh good call in from uh Shinderhanis. And uh I'm looking for Stas is tapping on her arm.
+
+[35:45] Again, Stas, people out there don't give a rat's behind about what we have to do. Your time is valuable, so I wish I wish I wish other people thought my time was valuable. You give a lot to your listeners, they have to. Yeah, alright, alright, yeah, whatever. Okay, listen.
+
+[36:01] So uh maybe next week I'm gonna be on the lemonade cleanse. So maybe next week I'm gonna sound like a lunatic when I'm talking because I'll be high on maple syrup and lemons. You're not doing anything, right, Stas. You don't play those kind of games. What's Peter gonna be doing?
+
+[36:14] Uh special K, I think. Which not the drug, not ketamine. It's uh replace two meals with special K. That's a wussy. Anyone can do that.
+
+[36:23] Stas and I were looking at each other, we're like, I could just eat one meal a day. We basically eat yeah, that's crazy. Whatever. And what what what is Emma doing? A cowboy diet, I don't know.
+
+[36:32] Is that all beans? I'm not sure. I don't know. Whatever. Anyway, so I'll do the lemonade cleanse first because that's the easiest one for me to just wrap my mind around.
+
+[36:40] In fact, I already have everything at the house to do it. Yeah. Is there any are you allowed to do anything fun with it? Like can I carbonate it? No.
+
+[36:47] No, nothing. Can I drink water? No, I don't think so. Holy crap. I can't drink water.
+
+[36:53] I don't think so. I can only drink this crap. I read you the rules. You could do salt water. Oh, great, thanks.
+
+[37:00] Can I add salt to the lemon maple syrup crap? No. Hey, you know what? As much as you relish me messing myself up, you have to deal with me all next week. Oh, I'm not looking forward to it.
+
+[37:12] Alright, well, anyway, we're back to you next week, probably with a wild-eyed crazy lemonade fueled Dave on cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org.
+
+[37:49] Heritage Radio Network is a non profit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Fairway Market, like no other market, a New York City institution that sells the best local, national, and international artisan foods for prices that can't be beat. For more information, visit Fairway Market.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit HeritageRadio Network.org for thousands more. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:33] This is Dave Arnold, your host of Picasso coming to you live from Alberta's Pizzeria on the Heritage Radio Network in Bushwick, Brooklyn. How are you doing? Stas and uh good. Yeah? Yeah.
+
+[0:44] You're doing better than I am. Yeah, uh uh, you know, we made the uh we made the Kickstarter uh goal. Uh plus we made an additional twenty thousand dollars plus over the Kickstarter goal, which means that I have to do the lemonade diet and then at some point in the future do the um do the paleo diet. So what you're hearing is me uncorking my core container of crappy lemonade. Uh by the way, I heard I missed some calls uh because I was a little late, uh kind of as usual.
+
+[1:14] So call your questions to 7184972128, that's 7184972128. Uh I have Eddie here, uh filming this proceedings uh for posterity, so maybe your call will be filmed, although you will not because you will be at home. How you doing, Eddie? I'm doing well. We got uh Jack and Joe in the engineering booth, how you guys doing?
+
+[1:31] Good, and you were pretty energetic for being on that uh lemonade cleanse. Well I mean let me tell you something about the lemonade. So for those of you that thankfully don't know what this is, the Master Cleanse uh was devised by uh a nut, a nut job uh named uh Stanley uh Stanley, I think, Burroughs, uh, sometime in the forties and was uh republicized in the 70s of the last century. And uh yeah, uh I went I went ahead and read Well here's the premise. You don't want to eat anything, you want to cleanse your body.
+
+[2:00] His first premise is that all ills are due to this thing he calls uh toxemia, which is a buildup of toxins in the body, right? So in fact, he doesn't believe that there are such things as dangerous germs or viruses or or microbes. Take that AIDS. Uh, you know, take that cholera, anything, right? The guy doesn't believe in this.
+
+[2:17] He believes that all uh kind of bad things that happen to us are caused by a buildup of uh toxins that we take in uh into our bodies, which is uh on its face absurd. And then he uh furthermore says that really what you need to do is clean out these things, and so he has devised a cleanse that he thinks will uh clean you out and get rid of all the toxic stuff and fix uh literally whatever ails you. He believes that this will fix w whatever ails you. So it's it's uh uh for every sixty ounces of water, uh purified or spring, you know, water, you you need three-quarters of a cup of uh organic, uh fresh, fresh, of course. I mean, I believe in this part, lemon, or actually lime juice does.
+
+[3:01] Do you know you could use lime juice? No, I didn't know. No, you could do lime juice. Possible. Uh because, as he says, uh lemons have more vitamins in them than any other fruit known to man, which is a lie.
+
+[3:12] Uh, and then uh maple uh syrup or organic, preferably grade B, three-quarters of a cup, uh, because it also apparently has all sorts of terrific stuff in it. And uh lastly but not leastly, uh some uh ground-up cayenne pepper, because I think he believes that uh, you know, if it's hot going in, it's gonna come hot coming out, clean you out. You know what I'm saying? He doesn't believe you need any protein in your diet, because he literally believes that uh like uh uh leguminous trees, we have nitrogen-fixing bacteria in us that allow us to obtain nitrogen out of the air and then synthesize all the necessary proteins out of it. So he believes that you can go on this lemonade cleanse for uh for 40 days if you want to.
+
+[3:55] By the way, Stas, I tried my first salt water uh purge uh this morning. How was it? Uh horrible. But it tastes horrible. It's horrible.
+
+[4:02] Anyway, uh and these nut jobs also believe you should not use iodized salt because they believe that somehow it stops it from cleansing you out. Believe me, if you pound a liter of uh, you know, seawater style salty water, uh you'll get cleaned out mighty, mighty quick. But one last thing, yesterday I did have a uh nightmarish headache because uh I uh I am a coffee drinker. So uh caffeine, if you withdraw from caffeine, you get a nightmarish headache. Uh and so I guess this is part of the quote unquote toxins leaving my body.
+
+[4:31] But the problem is that the whole the whole concept behind this diet is that somehow that you have an adversarial relationship to the food you eat and to the life you live and to everything about who you are as a person. When it and it is true that if I don't have coffee for uh a day or two afterwards, I will have headache until my body uh clears itself of its desire to have caffeine. But this is not a monkey I want to get off my back. I can't wait to get back on caffeine, not because I need it, because I like coffee. And because decaffeinated coffee, sorry everyone out there, just doesn't taste the same.
+
+[5:04] It's not the same. I've side by sided coffees where people are like, hey man, you can't tell the difference. I can. I can but believe me, because I'm not drinking like milked out like milk stravaganzas, right? I drink like short, straight espresso shots.
+
+[5:19] That's what I drink, and I drink it because I like it. So I will go back to to drinking it as soon as it's humanly possible. Also, have it Stas, have you remember you know what it's like when you eat too much uh candy? Mm-hmm. It's like so much candy.
+
+[5:32] Mm-hmm. And how you have like that sugar high? Mm-hmm. That's what it feels like to be on this master cleanse because it literally is just is just uh you're on a sugar high the entire time. It's because you're eating nothing but sugar in the form of maple syrup.
+
+[5:44] It's freaking nuts. Anyway, let me uh let me uh what are you reading, by the way, Stas? Just nothing. Did nothing on listening to you. I'm actually just staring at the page.
+
+[5:52] What what's the book? Uh Sex, Drugs, and Rock and Roll. By Judy, who's Judy McGuire. Oh, Judy McGuire. Yeah.
+
+[5:59] She's a co-host of the Mike and Judy show. Oh, yeah, yeah. She's great. We love her. Yeah, good.
+
+[6:04] It's a cool book. Yeah. Well, this is just I just mentioned that because it's on videotape here, and I want you guys to know what Nastasha actually does. I've heard all this classic. I like what you're doing.
+
+[6:13] I like what you're doing. I like what you know what you actually do during. No, you didn't, because I hadn't done the assault stuff yet. Not the salt. And I hadn't reported any of it back.
+
+[6:19] Not the same. You haven't heard any of it, actually. I heard about it. I hadn't read the Burroughs. No, I hadn't read it yet.
+
+[6:23] No, you know, you just I just want people to know out there, now recorded on videotape, exactly what goes on in the cooking issues program. Okay. Uh Adam Call of a follow-up from last week. Just want to thank you to take time for answering my question on last week's podcast. You'll be pleased to know this is the person who um who was asking whether they could save the stuff at the back of their fridge because the wife is pregnant now.
+
+[6:42] You remember? Just wanted to thank you for taking the time to answer my question on last week's podcast. You'll be pleased to know I threw out the stock and stewed fruit, although I'm still surprised there isn't a more scientific way to determine the food safety of refrigerated items. Thanks again for the program. I've learned a lot.
+
+[6:55] Cheers, Adam. Uh Ryan Berkeley writes in about hams. Dear Dave, Nastasha, Jack, and I'm gonna add Joe and Eddie. Uh I impulsively ordered a whole country ham several months ago from Finchfield Farms in Kentucky's. Actually, scratched that.
+
+[7:07] I actually ordered two country hams due to an accidental click. You know, you shouldn't be able to do that. You shouldn't be yeah, I like, is that because I think that happens to us at Booker and Dykes because our internet is so slow that you hit click a couple times. Do you ever double bought something? No.
+
+[7:18] Yeah. It shouldn't be allowed. Anyway, but don't worry. Anyway, the problem is I don't have a meat slicer, and it seems a little silly to order one just to eat these hams, and cutting them with a chef's knife has been a nightmare, even after I do a bit of amateur sharpening. What's the best way to cut up this ham other than buying a meat slicer?
+
+[7:33] Should I get a longer knife? How about some kind of holder apparatus for the ham, or maybe just take my seven-inch chef's knife in for a proper sharpening? Thanks for any guidance. Ryan from Berkeley, California. Two well, first of all, congratulations on the purchase of a good ham.
+
+[7:44] Finchfield uh makes an excellent ham. Uh, I visited their uh plant once. Uh they are uh they do like a semi-ambient cure where it's uh ambient, you know, in other words, not temperature controlled during the first portion of it. They I they used to anyway. I don't know if they still do this, but they really only cure one time a year and then they run out.
+
+[8:01] A good product, uh, all around uh good. Also, memory serves uh non-smoked, not a smoked ham. Uh and I'm trying to remember, I think believe they also do uh bag cures, so the bat hams are wrapped in bags as they're being cured for a portion of the time. Anyways, uh good hams. Uh seven-inch chef's knife is not the tool to attack this with.
+
+[8:20] First of all, go out and get a longer chef's knife for this sort of dealy anyway. But uh what you're gonna want to do is get a thin blade slicer. I don't do not I do not recommend any meat slicer on uh I've I've ever used other than a professional meat slicer. The little ones that they sell, they're they're crap. I mean, uh, pardon me if anyone out there sells them for a living, but they're crap, they don't work.
+
+[8:43] You know what I mean? At least the ones that I've used. They just don't work. Well, you're gonna want to if you like, look, a professional meat slicer is super super baller. It's awesome, right?
+
+[8:53] But uh they're very big. Uh you have to clean them, and it's not so easy. And sometimes newer ones are easier to clean the Hobart model 3000 slicer is easy to clean, but it's very expensive. Uh so uh here's what you should probably do. Traditional old school now in America, we've come to eat our hams like this, uh cut cross crossways, right?
+
+[9:14] The way you normally would get prosciutto if you go to a deli, you cut crossways. Uh and this produces a um a cross section of what's going on uh in the muscle, and it's very tender and comes apart, but European advocates have uh European ham uh folk have long advocated for slicing uh the long way. So you get a little piece of uh of a bunch of different muscles, and you can get these long strips. They are a lot chewier. But uh I had an expert make me some the other day, and it was quite good.
+
+[9:43] But you've got to remember European hams are uh not cured in the same way that ours are in the way that they're hung, so they don't have the same necessarily slicing characteristics because they're not the same shape. Uh Finchville and other hams are hung with the point with the with the hawk and down so that the cushion, that big part of the meat, kind of gets full and fills up because it's it's more normal for it to be served American style that way. What I recommend you do is um debone the ham or cut the cushion off the top of the ham and then use the separate piece, use the pieces on the bottom for different, and then once you have it as a more manageable piece, trim away a portion of the skin, make sure it's very cold when you slice it, and then you can slice off thin sli thin slices with a uh like a long flat slicing knife, which are they're flat, they're easy, like one that's meant for slicing fish or that, but the like any long slicing knife, but you're gonna want significantly longer because you want long draws on it. You don't want to do a lot of sawing on it, so you're gonna want to get one that's long, like 14 inches or more. I haven't measured one recently, but long.
+
+[10:47] And if you're gonna attack something with a chef's knife, uh you're gonna want mean with a ham, it doesn't really matter. You don't need a long chef's knife because there's no place you can really get into it with it. But go ahead and and uh next uh next uh you know, super gift giving holiday, like invest in a sweet. You know, they used to say in all the uh mad cooking magazines, you know, you know, an eight, an eight-inch knife is good enough, whatever. Let me tell you something.
+
+[11:10] Once you get yourself a good 10-inch chef's knife, good quality one, right? That feels good in your hand, and I don't care whether you prefer Japanese, Western, Japanese, or uh, or Western style knives, uh, like my one of my favorite, believe it or not, is a f is an old French style sabotier, like really old carbon. But a once you start like using a 10-inch knife, it's such a joy, right? Oh, for sure. Yeah, 10-inch knife.
+
+[11:33] Gotta love a 10-inch knife. Go for 10-inch. Anyway, uh, hope that helps. And by the way, uh just keep eating the ham a little bit every day. That's what I do.
+
+[11:42] Like ham, like in the little scraps and stuff, like ham and eggs, like no one's ever made a better combination than country ham and eggs, I don't think. I don't think so. Uh anyway. Peter writes in, another follow-up. I'm the fellow from Minnesota that dropped the call, uh, dropped the call on you two weeks ago.
+
+[11:58] Sorry about that. The answer to your follow-up question, now if you remember, he was asking about different ways uh to treat deer meat because he got a lot of deer meat in Minnesota, which is a problem I wish I had here in New York. To answer your follow up question, we get a range of deer throughout the season, so you'll get anything from fawns to old doughs. When you put them in the bag, the gamey flavor has been a bit intense, and as such, I've been using pretty strong sauces to counter them. Think juniper berries with current preserves.
+
+[12:19] Do you have any other strong flavor combinations that could uh hold up to the gamey power of an old dough? Uh well, it's an interesting question. I mean, usually uh when you're talking about gamey flavor, uh, people recommend like the pre-soak in some sort of an acidic uh merinate. But I haven't been able to elucidate the chemistry of it. Uh of why, I mean, I don't know, I don't know that it's a similar chemistry to what happens with uh, for instance, fish uh when you add vinegar on them and it kind of uh deactivating some of the nasty smells that are there.
+
+[12:46] I don't really know. But it's universal. I wasn't I read uh I went back and reread uh After the Hunt, which is John Sfulse's book on uh Louisiana game cookery, and didn't find any uh sort of stuff. I mean, m a lot of what I read about the taste of gaminess in deer has to do with well, there's natural gaminess because deer has a flavor, thank god it's delicious, but uh there's also uh kind of an off-flavor that can happen based on slaughtering and kill uh steps. And I read a number of scholarly papers that were not very helpful because all they basically said was stuff that you already knew, which is you need to chill the sucker down very quickly, and that a lot of bad deer flavor comes from the fact that the deer hangs out in the back of a pickup truck too long before it can get cooled down.
+
+[13:24] Um but the other interesting thing they said was that uh in general, people prefer uh check this out. So between does and bucks, right? People prefer does, and does are slightly more tender, at least in the studies that I've read. There's one contradictory study out of Poland, but most of the ones said that. And even furthermore, they have a a different um kind of a uh flav flavor breakdown, but I can't I but I don't know whether it's due to diet.
+
+[13:48] This study didn't go that far. But interestingly, although younger doughs were preferred to uh older dough, uh older doughs are preferred to younger bucks, even though the younger bucks are probably more tender. People just preferred the dough meat. Strange, right? What happened?
+
+[14:03] Oh uh, uh we'll get back to some more deer stuff in a minute. Collar, you're on the air. Hello, uh, hi, this is Steven Benzinger from Indianapolis. How are you guys today? Doing all right.
+
+[14:11] How's Indianapolis? It's uh it's pretty good. The weather's actually nice out here for once. Um so uh question for you. I am uh cooking for somebody who is neutropenic at this point.
+
+[14:24] Uh and I was curious do you know what new d is the neutropenic diet something that's now hook me up. Give us a neutropenic. Okay, so when you take chemotherapy, uh if you have like uh leukemia or something, it wipes out your uh it could essentially wipes out your bone marrow, so you cannot produce white blood cells, so you have no no real immune system. So uh food safety at this point is extremely, extremely important. Yes.
+
+[14:47] Um and so uh I was curious on your opinion about uh first of all uh some safe practices like maybe boiling pork containers before making soups or uh or whatever uh that I could do in this situation. Uh also I was curious about uh yogurt and uh because it has a lot of bacterial cultures, uh, but they're good bacteria, and everything I read says don't give neutropenic yogurt, but because of competitive growth, I would assume that there was no uh pathogens in there, but I'm not sure. This is an interesting question. Okay, so let me just say at the get go, not having studied the problem, I uh like I'm I'm gonna hesitate to make any actual pronouncement here. So the only dietary restriction is absolutely nothing that would compromise the immune system.
+
+[15:34] There's no dietary restrictions from a food standpoint. Right. Okay. Yeah. Right.
+
+[15:41] So it's kind of just like a very hyper version of what you would do with a pregnant person, right? Exactly. Yeah. I was listening to a few of your podcasts, and uh everything that I heard about pregnant people, I was applying to that situation, kind of, but I'm still right. I mean, if you want to serve somebody like super safe, just as an as a note, I'll say the same thing I say when I talk about um cooking for pregnant people.
+
+[16:05] Immersion circulator is a fantastic investment for I don't know if you already have one, but an immersion circulator is a fantastic investment for for this uh for this sort of diet because now I don't go pushing the don't go pushing the edges. Do you know what I'm saying? But like don't don't try the 54 degree stuff, maybe or right, exactly. So don't push, don't push the envelope. But you know, all of a sudden for this person, you can cook uh you know a bunch of stuff that is uh, you know amazing that they can't otherwise have because they have to cook the crap out of it.
+
+[16:41] So I mean I would definitely focus on things like 62 degree uh eggs applications like that. You know, you I you're gonna be more careful than the otherwise other people would be about making sure there's no cross contamination and stuff like this. But you have the ability then to serve this person uh foods that they couldn't ordinarily get when they were when they were out. Um now with yogurt uh I mean my initial inclination is that you're right, there's competitive bacteria in yogurt uh that are gonna prevent um uh most of the most pathogenic th you know pathogens from growing in it. But if if the if the here's the issue a lot of doctors out there will just say, no, you can't have it.
+
+[17:25] Why? Because they haven't done the research. And so rather than tell you no, you can't have it because I haven't done the research, I would say that if someone has said you can't use it, I would go and see why they said you can't use it. Right? I mean, I'm I'm all for making an informed uh decision on this, but I don't know all the factors.
+
+[17:42] So it could be that some doctor out there who has a lot of knowledge and maybe even some clinical experience has seen problems with yogurt and patients who are on chemotherapy, right? And so I I and I don't know that. But I've seen it go the other way too, where doctors have made knee-jerk responses to questions about foods just because they don't have a lot of food information. They're not cooks, they're not, they don't study this thing, they don't really know much about food. And so I I I can't make a statement about it one way or the other except for figure out what the source is and then make a judgment.
+
+[18:16] I mean, I have no problem overruling a doctor who just speaks from a uh knee-jerk perspective. You know. But on the other hand, I've had it go the other way where people are like, No, I've you know, I've seen actually clinical problems because of X, Y, or Z. Now, when it comes to boiling core containers, core containers can very easily uh stand up to boiling uh liquids. So that's not gonna be in fact uh you know what can't actually interestingly is the lids.
+
+[18:41] The lids are made from a different material than uh the core container themselves. The li the the core containers are polypropylene, it can easily stand up to boiling water. And in fact, I don't believe they'll melt down even in a pressure cooker, although I think you're getting close. I have to look it up. Whereas the lids are made of polyethylene, which melts at a much lower temperature, which is why when you nuke stuff in core containers, the lids expand and blow up and the and the containers are fine.
+
+[19:04] So you're gonna have a difficult time sterilizing uh lids of core containers with boiling water. I would just use a sanitizing solution uh if you're worried about it. If your soups are extremely hot, they should self uh self-uh obliterate whatever is in. Yeah, right. But uh it's a very good idea uh to keep a uh sanitizing solution bucket around the kitchen and just be ultra aware during this time of cross contamination and making sure that things aren't dripping on each other, making sure things are um sanitized properly.
+
+[19:36] I mean, if you can you you know, if you can I mean I don't know what you make, but you know, um presumably, you know, um if because you're worried about it, you're gonna do a good job, uh assuming that you're being vi vigilant. You know what I mean? Right, right, definitely. And um uh do you have time for like uh one or two more questions? Uh sure, shoot me.
+
+[19:56] Okay, uh first one, the the I'm actually building the um uh I'm uh I'm uh about to be a med student, so I'm not gonna have a lot of money. So I'm actually building the immersion circulator from the uh Seattle Food Geek website. Um I was wondering if you thought that that one was a a good model, besides the fact that if you turn it on outside of the water it overheats and blows up. Uh huh. Essentially, but yeah.
+
+[20:17] Well, you can fix that, you know, by just uh strapping uh an extra over temp um an overtemp thermometer to the heating element. Which one is that? Is that the one that's built in the acrylic uh case? Yes, it is, yeah. We're trying to figure out a different thing for the acrylic because uh uh I don't have a lot of time to build it, and the people that are building it for me are not as familiar with how to heat the acrylic to bend it, and I'm I've never done it either.
+
+[20:40] So I'd uh you know, just just in case we're trying to figure out a better box for it than the acrylic. But um What's the total what's the total cost of it when you're done? Uh 70 bucks, 80 bucks. That's pretty cheap. Uh that's pretty cheap.
+
+[20:54] I mean, uh I I've never used I've never used it. Uh the only circuit I've used only commercial circulators and ones I've built myself. I'll say that the ones I built myself uh, you know, like the first one I built was with, you know, coffee, you know, immersion coffee heaters, and they leak electricity, and so I got shocked whenever my hand went into the bath. But, you know, uh the the the temperature equipment temperature monitor equipment now being what it is, I mean, you you're gonna be able to get the accuracy with the home. So you're not from a safety standpoint, you're not gonna have a problem.
+
+[21:26] It's just a question of whether or not you like the usability of it compared to a um right you know compared to to a standard one. But look if you if if it's the only thing you can afford to get and it's eighty bucks do it. You know do it. And uh and uh you know the the one I've seen a couple where people have found like kind of prefab boxes that were used for other things that kind of work. You know what I mean?
+
+[21:48] Okay. Um just drill a few extra holes in them or or something like that. Yeah when you're drilling acrylic you gotta be careful drilling acrylic. When you're drilling acrylic it has a tendency to shatter because acrylic is very shatter prone as opposed to other things like Lexan. Also you can't wash acrylic with alcohol because it crazes and goes nuts.
+
+[22:05] Uh when you're drilling with acrylic you're gonna want to get a special drill bit that has a a different point. It's much more pointy and you're gonna want to make sure that you uh have the acrylic backed up with a piece of wood or something else so that there's it doesn't flex a lot as the drill bit goes through and it's going to prevent shattering because it's really irritating and once you shatter a piece of acrylic you're gonna keep propagating that crack crack especially if it's at a stress point. Okay. Would it would it help to heat the acrylic uh before drilling? No, no in fact no in fact the problem is it heats and gums and then your drill bit catches and then it cracks.
+
+[22:38] Uh I I would just I mean if you can I would put it even in in water on top of a block of wood and go through it. But acrylic, I'm just I'm telling you is acrylic like acrylic drills beautifully when you do it right, but then you know when you stop paying attention is when you you know drill a hole through it and then shoot a crack across it. You know what I mean? Okay. Okay.
+
+[22:56] And and I have one more quick question. I'm sorry I'm sorry to take up some so much of your time. Uh but uh I was curious about uh if you so I have uh another friend that's going gluten free, and I'm I'm giving them suggestions for thickeners like Zan Pen guns and agar agar and things like that to replace uh you know starches that are um that are you know that have gluten in them like wheat we flowers and things. Uh but I was curious if uh what was the source? You were talking about one time that there was a source from National Starch or something like that was that was just like a hundred percent uh um amylopectin or something like that.
+
+[23:30] That was I mean uh I don't remember exactly what what we were talking about, but Nash the National Starch Corporation, other than having an awesome name, National Starch, was uh they have a lot of different um starches that are um specifically geared towards certain things and they are very aware of gluten because it's a huge business, so they have a uh uh you know, they have a a lot of knowledge about it, and a lot of their databases are online. So depending on your particular application, I'm sure you know they if if they don't have a starch that'll fit what you need, then probably nobody has a starch that will fit what you need. I mean they they are I mean they they come by their name honestly, National Starch. Awesome. Thank you very much, David.
+
+[24:10] I appreciate it. All right, have a good one. Oh, you too. Uh caller, you're on the air. Hi, uh Jarvis.
+
+[24:17] I'm calling from uh Milwaukee, Wisconsin. Hey, what's up, Milwaukee? No, I've never been to Milwaukee. I've been near Milwaukee, but never been to it. Yeah, you should come down.
+
+[24:26] Yeah. I mean, like I mean I I I tr I drink the beer, I own the tools, but other than that, um yeah. Uh I had a question uh regarding uh sausages. Um our owner has a farm that has uh megaliths of pigs. Ooh, nice.
+
+[24:41] And uh we're trying I'm trying to make uh Italian sausages out of it. But what's happening is uh the sausages themselves are coming out really batty um because of the fat content. I mean I'm still I'm using uh Michael Roman's uh Chiccuterie uh book uh for the Italian sausage recipe. Right. Um, but uh what happens is after I case it, um I hang them to dry.
+
+[25:04] Uh I do prick them. Um and then when I I need to render it in the hotel pan first to get the uh to get the initial fat off, but when I put it on the grill, um there's still more fat to come off um and then also uh the casing splits as well. So I was wondering the question about the the actual sausage and then the casing as well as how do I make a hard, nice, sturdy, crispy uh casing um on the grill. Well, you know, I I actually the casing problem is one I wish I had studied more. I was just talking about this with Nastasha, how the the Germans make the greatest sausage casings, right, says that that snap of a good sausage casing when you bite into it and the meat just explodes.
+
+[25:49] Awesome. Right uh, but okay, so we'll get back to that in a sec. So the the first of all, what's the diet? Uh do like are they are they being fed kind of a standard grain diet? Are they being what what are these pigs being fed?
+
+[25:59] In other words, what's the characteristic of the fat? Is it a hard fat or is it really soft fat before you process it? Well, it uh it is kind of hard it it gets it kind of melts in my hand if we if we don't work fast in a room temperature kitchen. Right. Um so it is kind of it's kind of softer.
+
+[26:17] Um it's not that soft though. Uh that makes sense. Yeah, it does. So I mean for for sausage production, a lot of times you're gonna want a little bit of a firmer fat just because uh well it depends also. Everything look, everything depends.
+
+[26:32] When you're having like when people are making salumi with like dried stuff, they want that like the nice stuff that really stands up to the you know so they they you know they prize so that's why things like the beota fed um like with this really soft uh fat uh ibiricos, they make awesome hams, but harder to own to make straight dried sauce. It's awesome. I love their dried sauce. Please no one call me and say that they don't make a gried I'm not saying that. But like the the texture of the of the fat's a little bit more difficult.
+
+[27:01] I think you know, one thing is are you really chilling the heck out of the meat before you grind it? Uh I I guess I guess not. I mean I put it in the cooler until I need it. Uh it is cold, it's definitely not not warm or uh you know, my my hand is definitely not as warm as I mean it's it's cold. Yeah.
+
+[27:22] But it's not like you know, it's not like deep chilled, um where the surface is starting to seal up a little bit. But I mean I guess I could leave it in there a little bit longer. I could put it in the freezer for a for a for a second just to kind of give it a deep chill but not freeze it. Yeah, yeah. You know, so what I when I'm making sausage, especially if I use a softer fat or like if I'm using a non pig fat like duck fat or something like that, you need you need to get it really really cold.
+
+[27:49] Otherwise, um and and you know, a as I believe it might even say in the charcuterie book, uh, you know, it's hard to tell when you're making a sausage what's happened to the fat during the grinding process. Uh you can only really tell once it cooks and you start bleeding out a lot of the fat that otherwise stay in. So what I would do is um I would I I usually pre-slice the the meat into the strips that I'm gonna feed into the grinder. Then I lay them out on uh sheet trays, and then I throw the sheet trays in the freezer and I wait until they get basically pliable but hard, right? Almost par frozen.
+
+[28:26] And then I feed them in. And if it takes me too long, I'll even have a couple of ice chips to even I know you don't want to add water, but I'm saying a little couple just keep that sucker cold. Also, if you're using one of the big meat grinders, I would I would throw all the parts in ice water before you grind. Like pull the meat grinder apart, throw it in ice water, get that whole sucker cold before you grind. So then, you know, flick all the extra water off, put it together, take your par frozen meat, grind it in.
+
+[28:52] And I'm my guess is that's going to take care of 90% of your problems. That's my guess. Okay. Um now on the casings uh breaking apart, are they breaking when they're are they breaking on the drying step or when you grill them? When we when I grill them.
+
+[29:06] Yeah. I mean, if a sausage isn't like full like typically I will par pre-cook a sausage before I uh before I hit it on a grill, just because you're gonna get much less splitting. I mean, the best way you could do it in a combi, you could do it in um you could do it. I was using the uh I'm sorry, I was using the uh circulator. Yeah, uh perfect.
+
+[29:29] 60 degrees for an hour. That's great. So you did it like that, pulled it out, and they were still breaking apart on you on the uh on the grill? Uh-huh. Correct.
+
+[29:37] Huh. Uh I don't know. Maybe it's just maybe with the I don't know. I have to think about that. Usually, well, usually that's a recipe for keeping it together.
+
+[29:45] It's like too much air in there, maybe when the stuffing process? He said he he said he pricked them though and got the air out. It's either air or or maybe the fat bubbling out, or maybe moisture content, but you said you dried off the stuff. I don't I don't see why I don't see why, unless they're mechanically damaged. If they're if like obviously everybody knows if you try to cook a sausage from raw on the grill, you're gonna break the skin.
+
+[29:59] Everybody knows this. But if you par pre-cooked like that, and they're not broken when they come out of the uh circulator, right? No. Maybe try a little less drying time before you grill them off. I don't know.
+
+[30:20] Okay. I don't know. I I have to think about maybe maybe someone else who has some experience in this uh can troubleshoot that. But I think I've solved your fat bleeding problem. I think you just tends to underestimate how cold they want their meat to be, and the answer is very, very cold.
+
+[30:37] But even when I paddle uh, you know, the the recipe calls for you'd said paddle the uh the vinegar um into the uh into the grind after you grind it, uh that's gonna bring the temperature down a bit, but I should also put the bowl and the paddle into the freezer as well. Yeah, everything should be everything should be like just cold. And in fact, the most the like so like there's two so when you're grind when you're grinding sausage is like the first time when like everything can go to hell in a handbasket in this situation, right? And also, I mean I find that like pre-cutting the meat into strips like that and setting them out, like gives me another opportunity to make sure I'm not putting crap I don't want my sausage, but like pieces of grizzle or whatever. Because I don't like to put that in, even though I know you can, whatever.
+
+[31:21] I don't like to do it. And then uh the second time you can mess stuff up is either on the primary bind when you're mixing it together, if you really want to bind the sausage a lot, or if you're doing um if you're doing uh an emulsification step for an emulsified sausage. And both of those, it heats the enemy. I get I guarantee you that's what's what's happening. But I'm pretty sure that what's happening to you is happening at the grinding stage.
+
+[31:46] Okay. Alrighty? Good luck with this. Let us know what happens. Alrighty.
+
+[31:50] Hey Dave. Yes. So we've got another caller, but really quick I want to shout out somebody who became a member, a listener of cooking issues, Irene Lee, and she had a really nice message I thought I'd pass along. She said, I thought you guys might be entertained to hear that we usually listen to cooking issues while we're on our way to and from restaurant depot, which I assume you're familiar with. The place is a real bummer.
+
+[32:08] No one knows how to park. No one can face all their barcodes the same way. And a lot of the food is scary, like really freaky and weird. But it's part of our reality because it's our best option for dry goods, paper, and cleaning supplies. Is she from Boston?
+
+[32:20] Is that Irene from Boston that we have a question in from later? Um I believe so, yeah, it is. She is from Boston, yeah. Nice. All right.
+
+[32:26] So uh thanks to Irene for becoming a member. And then real quick, like listeners of cooking issues who can't make our big fundraiser, August 11th, which is going to be awesome, and we'll all be there. Uh you can get $10 raffle tickets, which uh is for a dream trip to Seattle. All expenses paid, flight, hotel, three meals of your choice at Tom Douglas restaurants. So that's from Chef Tom Douglas out there in Seattle.
+
+[32:48] So it's HRN Hawaiian BBQ.eventbrite.com for raffle tickets. Nice. Yeah. And we have a caller. All right, caller, you're on the air.
+
+[32:56] Hey, Dave, this is Andy from Chicago. How's it going? Doing all right, doing all right. How you doing? Doing good, thanks.
+
+[33:03] My question, the guy who's having the problem with the sausage, you think there's any issue with overstuffing and just putting too much pressure on the casing? Yeah, that could be. Uh I hadn't I hadn't uh I hadn't thought of that. It's yeah, it's definitely uh a possibility. I mean, um you you're from Chicago, you're not from Butcher Packer, are you?
+
+[33:20] Uh I buy from Butcher Packer, but not from them. Yeah. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Just made me think of it. Someone else, uh the same guy who was asking about uh deer before is stocking out his uh his butcher supply stuff because he he's gonna they're gonna be butchering more deer this year.
+
+[33:33] And I was thinking he's like, do you have any recommendations for other stuff I need for sausage stuffers and stuff. But I've only ever really used the I've only ever used like the five and I guess the ten pound guys the crank guys, so I don't really know anything about uh bigger ones than that. Do you have any experience with that? Not with bigger ones. I just used five bigger one.
+
+[33:52] But uh those those crank stuffers, you know, even if they're three pounds, they seem to work great. You know, I've had I've had a lot of success with them. Yeah me too. I've used the expensive ones and I've used the cheap ones from like Grizzly and the cheap ones from Grizzly seem to work fine. Yeah they work fine.
+
+[34:08] You know what I don't like are the ones that look like uh the ones that look like weird horns. Right never use those I mean me neither but I just don't like them. I saw I've seen them and uh so I guess I'm also while you know while we're talking I'm answering uh part of uh Peter's question. But yeah I don't like those suckers. But but so and another thing I think that most people when you're gonna uh set up a big butchery thing get a bandsaw.
+
+[34:34] I don't see that on the list of stuff. Get a bandsaw. Everyone loves a bandsaw right extremely dangerous in the kitchen because people don't think about how dangerous they are and it will cut your finger off as fast as it will cut off a you know a a rib. But uh if you are accustomed to wood shops and you know how you know danger works then I think a bandsaw is a good good thing to get for your butcher setup. I mean you know how danger works.
+
+[34:59] Yeah yeah I mean like swear to God, if you're gonna slice up a bunch of hams, like uh especially country hams, bandsaw. Anyway, so what was your what do you have a question or you're just uh talking sausage with me? Wait, hold on a second you're cut you're you're you're cutting out a little bit. Hold on a sec. Start again.
+
+[35:14] Yeah, I uh I run in I'm I'm the guy who goes to Alabama sometimes to go fishing. I did the Ikajimi on the blue fish ago. Nice. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[35:25] So I didn't get any bluefish this year. Uh it's kind of a crappy fishing year, but I did get uh like a thirty five pound big drum red fish, uh, which was great. And um it's uh it's a little tough. You know, the bigger they get, obviously the tougher they get. And so I was thinking about doing it low temp for tenderization.
+
+[35:39] Uh doing kind of a test with four chunks over a five hour period, you know, tested at one, two, three, and four hours. Uh does that seem like good? You have a have you ever had an experience with uh big tough fish tenderizing them? Yeah, well low temp cooking. Well, okay.
+
+[35:54] So I mean the problem with fish and low temp cooking is that usually for most fish, uh you cook 'em for a long time and but they don't get better. They just get kind of mushy. So they don't get yeah, they don't get tenderer. In other words, like the hardness is still there, but it's just also mushy. There are a couple fish that can stand long t cooking times, like stripers.
+
+[36:15] I know stripers can take long cooking times in circulators, and uh and they're one of the few fish that I think tastes okay at higher temperatures, like fifty-seven Celsius, which is like hundred thirty-five. So, like, you know, like that's the kind of fish that usually I'll cook a long time. It's also luckily the fish that I usually get in larger sizes, like thirty-six, forty inch stripers. And uh I cook them whole and you need to cook them a long time because they're tough. You know, uh not sorry.
+
+[36:42] No, you need to cook them a long time because they're large. Yeah, right. Yeah, because they're large. Uh they also tend to get tough when they're big, but it's good because you're not overcooking them. Uh so if you're cutting something into fillets, I don't think there's any reason to cook it for a long time.
+
+[36:56] Well, you cook it through and you should be done. Now prove me wrong. Like, please, you know, cook cook it, but I find that most fish, when cooked for a long time, tends to degrade uh rather rapidly. Like, I don't really like salmon. It's cooked more than like 20 minutes or so.
+
+[37:12] Uh you know, even you know, in a circle if I'm doing like a higher thing, like if I'm doing like 50 50 uh and change for like a cold poached thing, you know what I mean? Where I'm gonna cool it back down, so I'm gonna cook it through. Uh I still don't, you know, like it cooked too too long. No. Unless you go all the way the other side and do can't be a fish and dead.
+
+[37:31] So I'm thinking maybe, you know, maybe it's more along the lines of the stripe. I'm thinking it's definitely more along the lines of the striper than it would be of a salmon. So I'll give it a shot and let you know. I'll tell you a striper can take two I've striper can take two and a half hours while you're waiting for the center to cook through. Like the larger ones that I cook take two and a half, three hours to cook through at fifty-seven, and they they don't they don't turn to crap.
+
+[37:56] They're fine. So if you need to cook it that long, yeah, yeah. So and you know, also I fry the outside. But like if I you know, if you know, uh they can take it, it will it will work. All right, cool.
+
+[38:07] I'll give it a shot. Thanks very much. Thank you. Take care. I love those experiments you did with Ike Jimmy last year.
+
+[38:13] They were awesome. Uh okay. So I think do we answer like Peter's question on the on the well before we before we go go uh back, like if you're from Minnesota and and you're interested in uh hunting, you gotta get the Bull Moose uh cookbook, which was a cookbook uh by Christian uh Herder back in way back in the day. He owned an outdoor shop and he had a couple of cookbooks. They are wildly inaccurate.
+
+[38:37] He was like crazy, probably probably a misogynist. I don't know. I know he had some very un choice things to say about Hollywood Starlets in his book, but his book is the craziest cookbook, one of the craziest cookbooks I've ever read. Complete nutbag and like interspersed with like how to uh how to uh you know get a tortoise to stick its uh head out when you cut its head off answer is of course to shove your finger and it's behind. But uh it's an interesting book to read if you are a hunter and from Minnesota 'cause it's part of your Minnesota hunting heritage.
+
+[39:09] Uh okay. So uh on to Lucas who now lives in Nairobi. Uh hey longtime listener from Australia who's l uh living in Nairobi at the moment. Stas you lived in Nairobi for a while, right? Mm-hmm.
+
+[39:19] Yeah. How long were you there? A month. How long ago? Four years ago.
+
+[39:24] Yeah. Yeah. Never never been to Kenya. What? Right before you.
+
+[39:27] Yeah, never been to Kenya. Uh so I and uh okay. This brings up my first question. When I got over here a few people told me it's much harder to bake at altitude. Is this true?
+
+[39:37] Can you describe why altitude might cause difficulty in getting breads and or cakes to rise. Uh I've had little trouble, bread comes out different to at home uh but I put that down to different quality ingredients. The flower star is not the same. Uh so for me yeast risen items are fine and I haven't tried chemical rising agents yet. Okay, look.
+
+[39:54] Uh as far as I can tell Nairobi is at uh seventeen uh hundred and ninety five meters which is five thousand eight hundred and eighty nine feet. At that altitude water will boil at ninety-three seven Celsius or two hundred point seven Fahrenheit. Now listen that is true and so things uh that are boiled tend to cook longer but that's not the biggest deal. The fact of the matter is that uh also water is going to evaporate at a much more ferocious rate. So uh things just operate in in different ways.
+
+[40:22] Uh I would go to the um Colorado State dot EDU. They have a whole thing on altitude baking and what to do with it. And King Arthur Flour actually has an interesting thing because they're a flour company. But the the upshot is that gas bubbles are going to expand more quickly, so you generally use less leavening agent as you go up higher. Also, because uh things evaporate faster, right, uh in in the oven, they will, because the oven is the temperature the oven is and the humidity is lower, so the water inside is going to evaporate faster.
+
+[40:54] As that happens, it's going to create more steam much more quickly, right? So things tend to rise more and pop more. Uh it's also harder to get things to boil, etc. So, uh according to Colorado State, uh high altitude has its most pronounced effect on the rising time of bread. At high altitudes, the rising period is shortened since the development of a good flavor in bread partially depends on the length of the rising period.
+
+[41:15] It is well maintained that period. Punching down the dough twice gives the time for the flavor to develop, or perhaps just use less freaking yeast, right? Uh in addition, flours tend to be drier and thus absorb more liquid in high, dry climates. Therefore, less flour may be needed to make the dough a proper consistency, right? Just makes sense.
+
+[41:31] Secondly, uh I've really liker sugar uh in pretty much everything. If you're going to add sweetness, why not add flavor at the same time? Uh says Lucas. Uh and I I think so as well. I like some dark sugar.
+
+[41:41] Not always, sometimes. Uh if you're adding a darker sugar in place of more refined sugar, for example, fine muscovato in place of castor, are the sweetness levels the same or is more refined sugar sweeter per volume? Um keep up the uh keep up the good work, enjoy the show. Cheers, Lucas. All right.
+
+[41:57] Well, volume is a f so okay. So on a weight basis, brown sugars are dis technically a little bit less sweet than uh sugar because they have non-sucrose stuff in them, like ash and other things that are making them brown. Now, the most hardcore brown sugar you can get in uh the Codex Alimenters we looked up with with is still 88% straight sugar, right? That's like including the water that's in it and the most molassesy, most dark brown, and that's high. That's higher than any of the actual stats I've read on brands that I could find.
+
+[42:28] So you're looking at something that's roughly the same sweetness as sugar on a weight basis. Now, volume basis has a lot to do with density. Now, the brown sugar that you buy, you know, domino brand brown sugar that we buy here in the States is about the same uh one-to-one sweetness uh as regular refined uh granulated sugar on a volumetric basis, but it just packed brown sugar. But it just happens to be that way. If you were to have a sugar of a different density, it would be wildly different.
+
+[42:59] That's why I always recommend going on a weight basis with sugar, right? Weight basis. So the answer is yes and no. Okay. Uh Irene wrote in, same Irene, I think, uh uh Jack.
+
+[43:11] Right? From the uh May May, the May May Street Kitchen. There's in fact a May Ma restaurant outside of my house, and it's called the new May May Kitchen. And I'm assuming, Irene, that yours is of much higher quality than the one outside my house. Uh dear cookie issues crew, greeting from Irene, writing new from Boston.
+
+[43:26] I run a fruit truck called May May uh Street Kitchen with my brother Andy, sister Margaret, and the partner Max. Uh we do a bun, we do a bunch of local sourcing whole pigs and the like, and we're opening our restaurant later this summer and hope you can come visit us one day. Our staff loves the show uh and the blog, so thanks for being cool and teaching us lots of cool stuff. Also, congrats on the Kickstarter. We're eager eagerly awaiting our puff pack and are super happy for you guys.
+
+[43:47] So good supporter, right? Strong. Uh I'll be in Boston actually uh in uh early September for a little bit. Um I might have my dog with me though, so I don't know if you have outdoor seating. My question today is about MSG.
+
+[43:58] We don't use it in our food or at home, but we don't mind eating it, and it drives us nuts when people complain about it, like Nastasha, for instance. Uh the number one complainer is our mom who claims she gets headaches and can taste it in the cheap Chinese food we occasionally eat. She is both a doctor and of Chinese descent, so you can imagine that it is a trippy trick uh tricky topic around the house. We've considered just sneaking it into her food and then surprise attacking her with the truth, but I still live in her house, so that seems inadvisable. Do you know of any particularly legit or academic scientific work on the MSG myth that we can share with her?
+
+[44:28] She's read a few pop side articles and the stuff in Huff Poe and Salon, and they didn't really do it for her. Any help is much appreciated. All the best, Irene and May May Street Kitchen. P.S. Sometimes when we're having a bad day, we re-listen to your rant about raps.
+
+[44:41] Thanks for that. That was a good rant, actually. Okay, here's what you want, Irene. First of all, look up the article, The Chinese Restaurant Syndrome, an anecdote revisited in uh 1986, Food and Chemical Toxicology, where it describes the history of Chinese restaurant syndrome. In brief, in 1968, Dr.
+
+[44:59] Robert Ho Man Quok recounted a letter to the New England Journal of Medicine, his experience of a strain syndrome whenever he ate in a Chinese restaurant. He reported his experience one of numbness beginning at the back of the neck, radiating to the arms and back, and accompanied by weakness and palpitations. He suggested that the cause might be some component of the cooking wine, the high salt content of the northern Chinese food, or the monosodium glutamate that was used. This letter triggered a deluge of similar anecdotes and focused attention on MSG as the causative agent. However, back then it wasn't MSG, it was called Chinese restaurant syndrome.
+
+[45:31] And in fact, uh I think a lot of it has to do with the fact that people who are eating stuff that wasn't uh used, they weren't used to, or if for instance, they go to a Chinese restaurant and pound all of the stuff without having any rice that's not salted, they're pounding a boatload of sodium. Just might do sense. But here's another interesting thing from that paper. When the study population was screened to identify uh those who claim to have heard of uh Chinese restaurant syndrome and believe that they knew what it was, it was found that those subjects had a rate of reporting CRS type symptoms that was ten times greater than the general population. And an equally greater rate of reporting non-specific syndrome is presumably from this group of dyspeptic individuals that the majority of Chinese restaurant syndrome anecdotes arise.
+
+[46:14] So the nice way of saying in your in your head. Now I'm not insulting your mom, but I'm it's I'm not insulting your mom here. Don't take it that way. Uh a lot of papers later that were really uh there's been a lot of papers. The papers that have found that there is a problem uh have a couple uh with with monosomial glutamate, have a couple of issues.
+
+[46:33] Uh a lot of them are that they don't successfully mask the taste of MSG in the studies that they do. Uh the best paper I know uh of from an earlier date that kind of disproves really kind of strong kaboom uh that there's no problem that proves that there's no problem with monosomial glutamate is from uh Dr. Terasoff in 1993, Motosodium L-glutamate, a double blind study and review, uh, which is like baller, they put the monosodium glutamate into gel caps, blew the gel caps off, did a double-blind controlled placebo thing, and showed in fact that there's nothing wrong with MSG. There's someone who wrote uh uh uh a criticism of their uh of that article, and then he came out, he or she, might I don't actually maybe it's a she, I don't know. Dr.
+
+[47:12] Tarasov came out and uh with uh with a with a rejoinder to that called Another Case of Glutamania in also in 1993. And I will just read it very quickly because it is intensely awesome. Uh because it's uh one of the, and I said it before the last time I went off an MSG, it's like you see the scientists like totally dropping the glove and just being like, listen, you D bags. Here's what here's what it is. And give this one to your mom, have her read it.
+
+[47:35] Uh, just look up, um, look up another case of glutamania by uh Dr. Tarasov, T-A-R-A-S-O-F-F. Uh, I think it was 93, although it might have been a year later or so. Okay. Another case of glutamania, and this is from the article.
+
+[47:49] MSG is an amino acid found in all foods and sometimes termed free glutamate or glutamate. All organs in the human body contain MSG as it is found in the bloodstream. Boom. Uh, but the boom is mine. Uh by far the highest levels are found in parts of the brain.
+
+[48:05] The brain is protected from the bloodstream by the blood-brain barrier, which is largely impervious to incoming MSG. The brain synthesizes its own glutamate from glucose. This is an excitatory neurotransmitter, namely, you need glutamate to think, a fact which is worthwhile pondering. Boom. Also mine.
+
+[48:24] Uh the brain eliminates its used glutamic acid by conversion to glutamine, which can cross the blood-brain barrier. That is, the brain is a net exporter of MSG. The notions of exogenous and endogenous MSG are only relevant around the blood-brain barrier. Outside, they are biologically equivalent. The turnover of MSG in the body is approximately five to ten grams per hour since it is readily tra um transaminated to alpha key uh ketoglutarate, which is used in the Krebs cycle for conversion to energy in several organs.
+
+[48:52] Zowie. When plasma levels are increased by huge doses of MSG in the absence of food, they return to basal levels in less than two hours. Unrealistically large doses can elicit mild transient sensations such as lightheadedness, stiffness, tightness, weakness of the limbs, and warmth, and burning of the skin, face or scalp in some subjects. It should be emphasized that such effects are caused by very fast consumption in several minutes in the absence of food and do not reflect a realistic eating situation. The World Health Organization lifted its numerical limits on the use of MSG in 1987, and more recently, the American Medical Association did not support labeling requirements for food containing uh uh free glutamine.
+
+[49:30] MSG, here's it, boom, boom, boom. MSG is ubiquitous in vegetable and meats as it is in the human body. To comprehend the issues, it is easiest to start by considering some foods which do not contain MSG, pure salt and white sugar. The crystalline MSG that is added to foods is made by a fermentation process which produces the identical optical isomer found in quote unquote natural foods. Chemically, it is the monohydrate of the sodium salt of R2 amino pentadia uh pentania I can't pronounce it.
+
+[49:58] Pentane dioic acid. The concentration in tomatoes can be as high as point three four percent. Foods containing fermented, autilized, or hydrolyzed proteins contain much higher concentrations of amino acids. These include parmesan cheese at equivalent of one point five percent MSG, soy sauce at an equivalent of one point three percent MSG. Uh so boomity boom, boom-edy boom, boom, mcboom.
+
+[50:18] I hope that helps with your mom. You think it's gonna help, Eddie? Yeah. It's pretty pretty hardcore stuff. Uh okay.
+
+[50:24] Uh do we have to we have time for a couple? A little bit? Wait, it's one. One? Well, what Jack, can we stay on for a couple minutes?
+
+[50:31] Or Joe? No one's there, so we could do whatever we want. Bang! Alex writes in about pressure cookers. My wife recently gave me a pressure cooker, which I have been delightedly using to make delicious recipes.
+
+[50:41] Actually, she claims uh uh to have been unduly influenced by an unboyed unborn child on the grounds that she would never deliberately give me more kitchen stuff. I've been thrilled with the results so far, but the cooker was, as we shall say, a thrifty purchase, and I'm somewhat dubious that it performs as well as a more robust model model like the Coon Recon. Specifically, I wonder whether it gets up to the full 15 PSI call for by the recipes. Is there any way for me to tell what kind of pressure it gets up to and how to modify these recipes to compensate uh for this? Thanks and keep up the good work, Alex.
+
+[51:08] Alright, Alex, you know. I feel you, man. You got the present from uh from the wife. So you can't ditch it and get the get the higher quality one. It's all right.
+
+[51:17] Listen. Uh unfortunately, there's no way easy. I don't know what brand you have. If uh you know, but you can do things like um go on uh cooking issues on our pressure cooker tests, and we do eggs at different temperatures for different lengths of time, and you can kind of gauge by the browning that you get, whether or not you're at a full 15 psi, or you could borrow someone's pressure cooker and cook like two, either two eggs in them, hard-boiled eggs in them, uh, for like an hour and check the pressure pressure differences, or uh sweetened condensed milk, you can see whether or not they they turn brown like Dulce de Leche at the same rate, but unless you want to tap into that sucker, I don't know that how you're gonna be able to test the pressure. One thing I'll say most pressure cookers uh that aren't the coon recon, they need to be venting act actively for them to be at pressure.
+
+[52:00] So it's not just that little yellow button popping up that indicates pressure, it's actual venting of steam that indicates pressure. But uh yeah, I know it's tough. It's it's tough. You got the present, you can't say, I love it, honey, but I wish I had the coon recon. It doesn't work.
+
+[52:12] You know what I mean? Doesn't work. Uh okay. James writes quickly about stretchy ice cream. Hey Dave, Nastasha and the booth crew.
+
+[52:19] I like that booth crew. Like that booth crew. We are the booth crew. You know that song. All right, uh, I've tried making Dave's stretchy potato ice cream.
+
+[52:26] When it works, it hits it out of the park. The stretchiness adds to the sensation of creaminess without becoming too sweet. However, anytime I vary the recipe, or even occasionally when I follow the cooking issues blog recipe, it fails to gain stretch. Have you done any more tests with this that haven't made it into the blog? Cheers, James.
+
+[52:39] Well, I I've tested it and I've uh no, I haven't. I've tested it and had it not work when I've used uh other than Idaho, uh, you know, other than like russet Burbank style potatoes. I've had it fail with uh mealy, like kind of uh potatoes from Columbia, these potato criollos. So I think uh, you know, I've had it fail when uh I let it store too long, or when the potato's been sitting around too long, or when the starch retrogrades too much. So I have had it fail, but I haven't done any more research.
+
+[53:07] But you know, but let me know exactly what happened because maybe we can work this in it. Maybe I can find someone who's uh I don't know who will work on the problem. Also, a good stretchy ice cream is uh guar and lo and um guar and uh flavor free guar and uh gel and that makes a nice stretchy ice cream, but it doesn't have the potato, which I like. I like the potato. I should do more work on it.
+
+[53:25] I'll tell you I'll tell you this. I wasn't able to make it with straight starch. I'll ask Piper. I'm sure Piper will think about this crap a lot, right? That's the kind of thing Piper's gonna sit around instead of doing the work that we're supposed to do, he'll do that kind of stuff.
+
+[53:36] Right? Okay. Lastly, we're gonna make it all the way through. Johnny writes in about eggs and the EC Whipper. Uh Dave, Nastasha, Joe and Jack, longtime listener, first time question asker.
+
+[53:45] I love the show, blog, and bar. Thanks. And look forward to each new episode. You guys do a tremendous job. Keep up the amazing work.
+
+[53:51] I'm an avid home cook, and no matter how many eggs I eat, and I eat a lot, me too. Eggs are good. Uh I can't seem to keep bits of shell uh consistently out of my eggs when I'm cracking them. Any tips on avoiding this? I've gotten better at fishing them out with a shell.
+
+[54:04] It's like a magnet, but would like to get good at cracking them without so much carnage. Uh also I know it's been covered over and over, but can you recommend a particular ISI ripper whipper for rapid infusion for a home cook? Alright, on eggs. You know what? I really don't know.
+
+[54:18] I haven't studied this very much. I will say that uh Jacques Papin, the famous uh French chef uh that you know we know, hung around with, uh we we, you know, I call him Jackie Peeps. I don't know why. Sometimes Jackie Peeps. So uh he always used to say that you want to crack your shells on a flat surface and not on the uh not on the edge of your bowl uh if you want to avoid uh shells.
+
+[54:39] I also notice that obviously my shell problem is worse when I'm not paying when I'm when I'm literally like bowl cracking one-handed and like breaking them open, that's when I I do it. I think a lot has to do, frankly, with the eggs themselves. Some eggs seem to uh seem to shell out and throw bits of shell a lot more uh than other ones do. But uh I don't know. I mean, what do you think?
+
+[54:58] I try the old table crack instead of the uh bowl crack. Yeah, table crack you can push it through like a china cap as well after you crack. I mean if you're doing like a scramble, but if you're doing a setting side up, you're kinda screwed. Yeah, you're kinda shafted. Yeah.
+
+[55:08] Yeah. Uh yeah, it's problematic. I mean, honestly, like the lower quality crappy eggs have that problem, and the really high quality thick egg problems have that for different reasons. One because the shell just disintegrates in your hand and like falls into the and the other one because the shell is so damn strong that sometimes a bit of the membrane it can come off and go in. I wish I had a good answer on that, but I do have a good one on the ISI for you.
+
+[55:30] So the ISI people themselves, or EC actually, who we've been dealing with, who make the whipped cream containers, uh, they they kind of think that you want to use a half uh liter whipper. And for home use, a half liter is probably good enough. For a bar, I use a liter. The problem is if you're gonna make a lot of whipped cream, kind of a liter is nice to have. Uh if you're doing infusion, rapid infusion recipes, um, you might have to use two chargers instead of one uh when you're doing in a liter versus a half liter if you're not changing the recipe to get the pressure up there, but I really don't think that's that big of a deal.
+
+[56:00] The tricky you might have to change a recipe written for a half liter to work in a one-liter, but you can definitely work it. And if you're at home, the cost of throwing in an extra charger every once in a while isn't big compared to the cost of being not as versatile if you need that one liter to do something, right? Uh so I mean if you're in a restaurant and you're doing it every day and you're banging out for service, those chargers add up quick. But Lee. But if you are uh doing it at home, it's not such a big deal.
+
+[56:24] So if I only could have one, I would probably have a one-liter guy. Now listen, uh I didn't mention this, came up with a new technique the other day for the ISI whipper. So, in a nutshell, rapid infusion uh rapid infusion works this way. Uh you put uh product in a liquid in an ISI at room temperature. You force the uh nitrous oxide and the nitrous oxide under pressure, forces the liquid into the product.
+
+[56:48] You shake it around. The pressure uh also increases the rate at which things come out of the food and into the porous object into your liquids. You then vent it violently after a couple of minutes and stuff boils out and brings the flavor with it. That's how rapid infusion works, rapid nitrous infusion in an EC. Okay.
+
+[57:05] Problem is you can't use an EC or couldn't use an EC to get the flavors into uh a product. So, for instance, like the cucumber martinis that I made like you know a billion years ago, like you know, when I was first starting out in this thing, where I used a vacuum machine to suck the air out of the cucumber and then uh having it underneath gin and and uh and um gin and and vermouth and a little bit of simple. And then when you let the air back in, boom, the the uh air slams the gin into the cucumber, making an awesome looking transparent uh kind of cucumber martini. That doesn't work in an ISI because the the stuff boiling back out of the cucumber makes it look not right and it doesn't have as much of an infusion. So you can't do nice uh flash pickling in the ISI and have those beautiful results.
+
+[57:48] I figured out a way to do it. Here's what you do. Here's the new technique. I'm calling we're calling I don't know what I'm gonna call it, like EC flash pickling or something like that. So, what you do is you put the cucumber and the gin vermouth, a little bit of simple salt, in a sandwich-sized Ziploc bag, right?
+
+[58:04] I cut them into planks, right? Then you roll, I roll three of those sandwich Ziploc bags with the uh with the alcohol in them, and I don't need much. So for 200 grams of uh planks or for 150 or 180 grams of cucumber planks, I use about uh 200 and change a mils of this mixture, right? In the Ziploc bags, you do it just like low temperature ziplocks. You put your finger in it, you dip it under the water to get the air out, so it's only cucumbers and gin mixture in the Ziploc bag.
+
+[58:30] Roll it up, stick it into your ISI, fill it up to the fill line with water, close it, put a charger on it, agitate it uh, you know, a little bit, just a little bit, you don't need to do it a lot, and then let it sit for two minutes like that. Now, slow. Now, what's happening is is that you've used the pressure from the from the nitrous or carbon dioxide, it doesn't matter in this case, to force the liquid that's in the bag into the pores of the cucumber, right? There's still a little bit little gas bubbles because they're crushed in there. So you're gonna lose some of the infusion uh when you vent, but not as much as you would if you were actually injecting nitrous into the cucumbers themselves.
+
+[59:04] You then want to slowly vent the thing up to up to atmosphere after about two minutes. Now, if you were gonna don't remove it, although if you did, you'd look at it, you'd see there's still air bubbles coming out of the cucumber just because the cucumber doesn't know what the hell's happened. So for the next five minutes or so, you're gonna see little tiny air bubbles coming up out of the cucumber into the gin liquid. So you're gonna let it sit in the in the uh in the whipper for five minutes. Then add one more charger, let it sit for another two minutes, vent very slowly, and when you take the stuff out, boom!
+
+[59:36] Flash pickled in an AC and an EC whipper. Cooking issues, yeah. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio.
+
+[1:00:03] You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by TechServe, New York's original and still the best. Apple computer, iPod, and iPhone store and repair shop. For more information, visit TechServe.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more.
+
+[0:29] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold your host of Cookie Issues coming to you live from Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from roughly 12 to roughly 1245. Joined as usual with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, and who do we have in the studio today? We got Jack and Joe in the booth right now. How you guys doing?
+
+[0:46] We're doing great. Yeah, how you doing, Stas? Good. Great. Calling your questions to 7184972128.
+
+[0:51] That's 7184972128. And I'm back on food, people. Yeah, the lemonade diet is over, and God, that sucks. Man, it's just the worst. It it's like freaking terrible.
+
+[1:02] Like, so my wife, I complained about it last week, so I'm only gonna complain a little bit about it this week, right? But my wife was like, you know, uh, she was surprised, you know, because here's the thing. Like Nastasha you don't probably don't know me, right? But uh one of the things Nastasha hates about me is that uh she says I'm kind of like an animal, I'm kind of a machine, because I really just don't I don't care kind of like I don't know, it's things don't phase me, like pain, punishment, things like that, right? Yeah, hunger.
+
+[1:28] Yeah, hunger. So getting through it wasn't like uh like uh difficult from a willpower standpoint. It just sucked, and what sucked about it was is there was no point in it at all. You didn't learn anything about you don't look different either. No, no, no, no, no.
+
+[1:42] People are like, did you lose weight? I don't know, I didn't weigh myself beforehand. Why? Because this like it has no no meaning. And and all I realize is that you can, in fact, walk around with a sugar high for seven consecutive days without falling over.
+
+[1:57] I think we should just do a new uh diet stars this uh Stas will do this one. How about Stas. You want to go on the Sour Patch Kids diet? No. All you eat is uh just sour patch kids and wine.
+
+[2:08] Not at the same time. No, no. Like breakfast is sour patch kids, lunch is champagne, dinner is sour patch kids. No. You could do it for two days?
+
+[2:16] Yeah, probably two days. Yeah, you want to No, I don't want to do that. Maybe in the winter. Yeah, 'cause like minus the wine, like that's people are like, can you give a wine for seven yeah co of course. You know, you like your body is just this like physical thing that's there.
+
+[2:30] You know what I mean? Like who cares? Whether you're you know, right? Anyway, whatever. It was an irritant and I'm glad it's over.
+
+[2:35] So you learned nothing about yourself through that. Uh no. No. No. I learned that I mean I I really don't like the idea of detoxing.
+
+[2:47] I think it really doesn't make sense. I mean it is true you get rid of caffeine as I said last week, you know, and yeah, you know, your body is mildly dependent on caffeine if you consume it the quantities I did. And by the way, uh first thing I did when I woke up on my by the way, I broke my lemonade fast with uh falafel, I made falafel because a couple people have asked about it on the show and I hadn't made it in a long time. So I made uh falafel kind of a combination between Joe Nathan's recipe, you know, the famous uh writer on on um Jewish and Jewish American cooking, cooking in general, I guess, and uh this lady called uh the Shiksa Shiksa Kitchen. Anyway, uh who's uh a convert to Judaism actually, and you know, no one no one's a better zealot than a convert to anything.
+
+[3:27] So looked at her recipe and uh looked at uh Joe Nathan's recipe, made some good falafels. Fried them all up in the fryer. Did you talk on the show last week about how people should just get sick and throw up? Uh did we talk about that? I don't think so.
+
+[3:40] Well, uh, so the theory is this uh like so here's my f feeling, right? If what you really want to do is purge your body of everything, right? Uh like the best for me was the time I had that horrible gastrointestinal disease, right? And I I lost a ton of weight there because your body is like working overtime to try and fight this horrible disease that you have, and you're flushing your system of everything, and you can't take anything in, but your body doesn't go into horror shutdown mode because your brain is telling you not to eat or drink anything because it just shoots right out of you. So your metabolism stays fast and you're not taking any calories.
+
+[4:15] That's the genius thing. You know, that's that's what we need to do. That relates to my other business idea. Now, someone out there, please feel this. Here's the idea.
+
+[4:20] Ready for this? We're gonna get samples of contaminated water from around the world, right? And we're going to ship them to people who who live in places that don't have any sort of parasites in their water. And then you're gonna drink that water like maybe like two, three weeks. By the way, I'm not serious, this is satire.
+
+[4:38] Like two or three weeks before uh you go on a vacation to that country to that country, right? And then you have all of your horrible gastrointestinal problems at home in the comfort of your own home. You know, on the comfort of your own toilet, right? You know, I I'm I know some people that you know, Stas that could have used the comfort of their own toilet when they had some horrible GI problems on a trip last year. And they uh uh think about it.
+
+[5:00] And then um I mean, like, look, nothing's worse than going to an unfamiliar country where you don't speak the language and needing a toilet within 10 seconds, right? Yeah. I mean, that's rough even here in the States or wherever you live. Wherever you live, doesn't matter where you live, like you know your own toilet. You know what I mean?
+
+[5:16] Anyway, my point is is uh is that this would be uh a decent business. But you know, but stuff, all kidding aside, people used to take tapeworm pills. Really? Yeah. What years?
+
+[5:25] A long time ago. Really dumb. Really, really stupid, stupid, stupid, stupid stuff. But and then another thing, another million dollar business for you. Ready for this one?
+
+[5:32] There's this part. You didn't give the name of that business. Well, so like it was actually I was speaking to someone who is from uh India when when I when I came up with the idea, and because they were saying you don't want to go to Delhi and get this. You here's what you get when you drink the water there. They call it uh and this is from a native, so please don't don't write into me.
+
+[5:52] But uh Delibelli, which is the sweet name. So that was gonna be the name of the business, Delibelli. It sounds so friendly, doesn't it? Yes. Sounds awesome.
+
+[5:59] Anyways, so I was speaking to a doctor over the weekend, and we have another million dollar idea. Check this out. How much do you think like you know, some sort of rich Manhattan folk person would pay for this? Uh here's what we do. We give you you come into the clinic, it's a one-day super detox, right?
+
+[6:13] You come into the clinic, you drink this thing called a fasso soda. Fasso soda is like heavily phosphate salt laden uh soda, you have to chug it and literally it rolls through you like a freaking steam train and sprays out the other end, lickety split, cleans you out. One shot. So you do that. We also flush you from the other side just for good measure.
+
+[6:30] Then get here's the good part, Stas. Total dialysis. Right on the spot. Bam! Bam!
+
+[6:38] Oh my god. Oh my god. They would pay whatever. Yeah, whatever. $10,000.
+
+[6:45] Whatever. Show up, detox in a day. You know, we'll do your nails at the same time. You know what I mean? Little manicure.
+
+[6:52] We can get that Chinese lady we use to do their hair too. Oh, dude, you're giving away the secret. I didn't say where. You know, only the smart people know that that they should go to the like any place that has a Chinatown. If you go to the Chinese hair salon, this is a new this is in the States.
+
+[7:08] I don't know what it's like around the world because I don't I don't get my hair cut around the world. But the best head massages in the world for almost nothing. Yeah. Right, Sus? Yeah.
+
+[7:16] Eight dollars. Yeah, don't give away, don't give away all our secrets. We'll only give away the cooking secrets. Alright, now two actual cooking questions. First of all, before we get to cooking questions, I would like to say we have this in from uh Aaron Will.
+
+[7:27] Very uh, and uh we love this guy. Yeah. Yeah, so I'm gonna just gonna read his note, right? To uh Nastasha et Ali, which I like. I like I know some people named Ali.
+
+[7:37] Anyway, I want to say congratulations to everyone. This is by the way about the Kickstarter, the uh puffing gun. Oh, we should talk about the puffing gun later if we have time about what we puffed. Yeah, that was awesome, by the way. Oh my god, you like that first of all, like those things exploding.
+
+[7:48] How how like loud and impressive is that explosion stuff. You know what? Give me a minute. Now I have a video on my phone, I'll patch it through to the board. Maybe it'll uh come through on radio.
+
+[7:57] Uh sweet. All right, cool. Um, so this is about the puffing gun thing. I would like to say congratulations to everyone who is involved in the project on reaching the goal. Thank you very kindly for the invitation to the Mofad Puff Party.
+
+[8:08] You see, because Aaron Will is a backer of our Kickstarter. Uh it makes me incredibly proud to be a part of something I so strongly believe in. I truly believe in the long-term applications and massive positive ramifications that such an entity can and most likely will create. In all honesty, I am poor I am a poor yet passionate cook out here in Oregon, but um only because the momentary circumstances allowed for the expenditure, I was able to donate my entire paycheck this last month to the Mofad Kickstarter. You hear that people?
+
+[8:35] Entire paycheck. As such, along with scheduling and staffing issues, I have no feasible way to monetarily fund a trip to join the festivities to follow this month on the 13th, because we're having a big puffing party on the 13th of August. I would, however, hate to see my invitation ticket and spot on the fire marshal's max person limit list to the event to go to waste. If there is any possible way to auction off or resell my ticket to again benefit the Mofad so that someone else could enjoy the experience, I would greatly appreciate it. Again, I truly regret I cannot join the amazing group of like-minded persons that is sure to converge for the event.
+
+[9:07] I hope to hear from you soon and that you all have an amazing time at the event, Aaron Will from Scratch Restaurant in Lake Aswego, Oregon. By the way, everyone go out and patronize the uh Scratch restaurant out there in Lake Aswego, Oregon. And also he says, P.S. Uh, if Dave and everyone wants to come out to the pair repository, still the invitation stands. I'd I I'd love to go, but it's right around now, and I got s we have so much stuff going on this fall.
+
+[9:28] It's like the worst fall ever in terms of stuff. Um but uh maybe if I finish my book while the pears are still on the on the vine, I can go. Stas has this look on her face like I want to stab your eye out. That's a look. But anyway, uh Aaron, listen.
+
+[9:42] Thanks. This is uh it was um we're we're very touched over here. Yes. Well, we should have someone get his ticket. Yeah, we'll think we'll think of something nice to do for you.
+
+[9:52] Yeah. As opposed to the ticket. Okay. Well, we got a caller. Uh oh.
+
+[9:55] But maybe before we take the call caller, we'll play this little clip of the puffing gun. Okay. We'll see how it sounds. All right, hold fire. Woo!
+
+[10:11] I guess it's better when you're looking at the video. Yeah, probably. Caller's on the line. All right, caller, you're on the air. Hey man, how you doing?
+
+[10:19] Uh, this is uh Christian from Detroit. How are you, dude? Hey, doing all right. So got a question for you. I know you like to cook uh some weird things and whatnot.
+
+[10:28] Um was trying to uh make some mayonnaise this weekend with turkey eggs and made mayonnaise uh a hundred times and never had a problem. I was curious if different game eggs start to uh make creating mayonnaise difficult or or different. Huh, that's interesting. So you say you have done turkey eggs without a problem? No, I've never done turkey eggs uh before.
+
+[10:53] I've done you know, regular eggs and made mayonnaise of the hundred times. But I'm wondering if like wild game eggs or something like that has a like different protein comp uh makeup or something like that. Well they would yeah, I mean that that's a cool question. They I've never had a turkey egg. Do you actually have a stock of turkey eggs there?
+
+[11:14] I have a stock of turkeys which then produce the turkey eggs, so it's uh it's a good relationship. How do they taste as opposed to a chicken egg or duck egg or something? They're super custardy. So you know how a duck egg gets a little rich? This is like kind of custardy with and it's a little bit thicker, as you kind of would expect from like a bigger bird.
+
+[11:33] It's uh but it's super delicious, especially on top of like pasta and whatnot. Huh. And so and do they have you put them in a circulator? Do they cook at roughly the same uh temperatures? I haven't put them in a circulator, so I I couldn't tell you that one.
+
+[11:46] I would love to know that. So the well, the short answer is I don't know. But uh with regard to mayonnaise, but I do know that the different birds do have different protein fractions in their eggs and that they respond differently to certain treatments. For instance, uh, you know, one of the things that I have experimented with uh different um egg varieties uh is treating them with uh lye. Harold McGee and I used to do uh an alkaline egg where you soak it in lye and salt solution and then you cook it, and then even after you cook it, the egg uh remains translucent, right?
+
+[12:19] And so and then and then McGee and Nils and I used to you used to substitute that out. Uh instead, you know, loot fisk is the lye is the lye uh cured fish. So what we would do is use the egg as a loot fisk thing and then just s serve an actual smoked trout next to it along with some so it was good. Um but the um but the point is is that the uh duck eggs, chicken eggs, and quail eggs all responded differently to the treatment because the protein uh makeup is slightly different. So duck eggs responded really well to that treatment, uh, you know, uh, and uh so did quail, but uh chicken eggs were much more difficult to get to work with that because the proteins tended to fall apart more when they were treated with the lye, so they didn't gel up as nicely.
+
+[13:01] So I I know from that experience um that uh that yet yes the protein fractions are slightly different. Now, you know, mayonnaise is mostly concerned with the emulsification properties of the yolk, and I would assume that uh you know be because the yolk has so much more uh emulsification power in it than is necessary to make any sort of reasonable quantity of mayonnaise that unless there's some real unforeseen thing in a turkey egg that I can't, you know, fathom that uh there's no reason why it wouldn't f function um the same way in something like a mayonnaise. Is that make sense? Yeah, so maybe I just stink. Well well I mean like I have to uh yeah, I have to uh keep playing with it, but it was really weird.
+
+[13:50] I mean, no matter how much, you know, like a little bit of acid or the little bit of water, I just I couldn't get it to come together, so I'll have to mean you couldn't get it to you couldn't get it to start the emulsion? No. Yeah, I mean I've never researched the turkey. That's a really interesting question. You I I I'm trying to think of like what it could be that would not allow it to happen, but I you know, I can't.
+
+[14:11] But but so you so in other words, like you sit there, you make it with a chicken egg, no problem, and then you make it with the turkey egg and it's big problems. Yeah, it's it's super weird, and then you know, it like I've tried everything, like I let it sit in the fridge, let everything separate, pulled the yolks back out, tried to slowly add it back in, tried the cold method, tried room temp method, could not get it to come together. So I'll have to keep playing with it and see. Maybe there's something in it that's it's maybe there's something I've I've no I have no clue. But but maybe someone out there knows.
+
+[14:44] You know? Maybe I'll send you some turkey eggs and then we'll have to Oh, that'll be awesome. We'll play with it. That would be awesome. Also, like uh I wonder whether have you tried um so one way to find out whether there's something in the turkey egg that's shafting you is to m do like one to one turkey egg with uh chicken egg and see whether or not you can make that work.
+
+[15:04] Right? Yeah. I mean maybe there maybe there's some sort of crazy inhibitor, but I again like I just feel that like something just weird might be something weird might be going on, you know? Yeah, I I agree. I mean it it seemed weird to me.
+
+[15:15] I couldn't imagine that the emulsification would be that weird, but I or that different rather, but yeah, it was it's pretty strange. Huh. Yeah, well that's very interesting. So uh uh I would encourage you to keep us posted because I want to hear how this works out, or get us some turkey eggs and we'll mess around. Well we will make mayonnaise out of them.
+
+[15:33] Yes. Or and you can you can put them in the suit and see see how they do. No, yeah, it does. I want a sixty two. So you need to do is you need to do like you do the range.
+
+[15:42] So it's gonna set somewhere. I mean, obviously, you know, if you cook with a circulator, you know, ch uh chicken eggs set between 60, so they're runny of sixty two and they're set at sixty four Celsius. Yep. And so like, you know, I usually just run like that range to see whether like how things are relative to relative to the chicken, which is, you know, of course, the standard standard egg. Right.
+
+[15:59] Standard egg. Yeah. Cool. Alright, awesome. So I look for I look forward to the turkey and we'll uh we'll post back.
+
+[16:07] Yeah, sounds good. Thanks, man. Thank you. Alright. So what were we talking about beforehand?
+
+[16:12] We were talking about popping gun. Yeah, but no, there's something else. Something else we were talking about. I can't remember. Okay.
+
+[16:19] Uh Ryan writes in uh at cooking issues. How does the pressure pickle technique burst the vacuoles make sense with the chamber, but I'm a little confused with this. Referring to uh the the pressure uh rapid pressure pickling technique I put up on the cooking issues blog uh the other week uh and I think I described it last week on the air right how that works like you so they the idea is is that normally when you're infusing a liquid into a solid use a vacuum machine you suffer the air out using the vacuum machine you have it in a liquid air comes back in air s air smashes the liquid into where the air pockets used to be in the thing and you infuse it. So the problem with doing that in ISI is is that when you release the pressure uh all of the stuff that you infuse in boils back out again and you get almost like a net zero in terms of infusion. It doesn't look infused the way an awesome like you know vacuum infused thing looks so I solve that by putting the um products in Ziploc bags inside the ISI so that the soluble gas, CO2 or N2O doesn't get into the uh product and therefore won't boil out as violently.
+
+[17:24] So the question here is uh how does that uh burst the actual um air holes well I don't think in other words, like I think what what here's what I think is happening uh in in in this technique. In a vacuum, when you're using a vacuum machine to inject a liquid into into an air hole, what you're doing is you're removing almost all of the partial pressure of air on the inside of the air holes on the uh the pores on the inside of your liquid, right uh inside your solid. When uh when the air comes back in, you have a maximum uh external pressure of 60 of uh six sorry 15 roughly PSI pounds per square inch, forcing the liquid into those things. In an ISI, you're talking about sixty uh or more uh pounds per square inch, at least 60, 70, depending on how much you put in pounds per square inch pushing on it. And that is enough to crush uh air bubbles down to almost nothing.
+
+[18:16] So you've forced the liquid into it, right? Now you're not forcing anything solution like soluble uh gases in there. You're just making those air bubbles tiny and forcing liquid in. When you release it, right, those bubbles expand and leave your product, let's say cucumber, right? And take with it some of the liquid.
+
+[18:34] But they also, as they're leaving, they keep on then leaking out because you've made pathways for the liquid to get to them during the compress during the compression phase. The second time you hit it, right? This is why you pause for five minutes. The second time you hit it with a charger, you reinject that liquid into those uh into those uh gaps, right? And the second time you release it, very little gets sprayed back out, and so you have uh fundamentally uh an infused product.
+
+[18:58] That's why you need to hit it twice with that. I hope that makes sense. That makes any sense? Mm-hmm. All right, cool.
+
+[19:02] Uh all right. Uh let me see. Uh we have a bunch of you want to hit all the circulator crap now? Cell circulator, John? Or can you talk about what you what you emailed uh Barack Obama?
+
+[19:13] What? Oh, you know, do you guys look I look, I look. This is great. What? Dave answers no emails that of course if you send me an email, I'm not gonna answer it.
+
+[19:21] Have I answered an email for you ever, Jack? We've never had one email interaction, though. Yeah, no, no. Nah. And I've known you for how many years?
+
+[19:28] Like three or four years. Yeah, yeah. No, no emails. No, no. I hate email as a thing.
+
+[19:32] But but uh the the uh Obama machine emails emails me like three times a day. The formula. Like the, but they change the names to each person. So it'll say hi Dave. Yeah, where'd this come up?
+
+[19:46] What made you think it is? I was looking for his. Oh, you were looking for the questions I need. Yeah, so like anyway, so like I he's like I only respond to Barack and Michelle Obama's emails. And I never get responsible.
+
+[19:57] Oh, beyond Beyonce was on behalf of Barack Obama. Oh man. I was like, Beyonce, you never write anymore. So anyway, yesterday or two days ago was Barack's birthday. Right, yeah, happy birthday.
+
+[20:07] So what did you say? I was like, uh uh what did I say? I was like, oh a happy uh happy birthday, brother. Next time we go out, the beers are on me. No response.
+
+[20:18] No response. Anyway, I'm like, I personally am like uh I'm uh not a fan of the fake personal. You know what I mean? And he asked for money a couple weeks ago, and you told him I have this mopad thing that I have to give. Yeah, the fake personal emails are hilarious.
+
+[20:37] It's like I love it when an ATM machine thanks me as though it's not a machine. Yeah, ridiculous. No one made you think of that. All right. Let's take a really quick break.
+
+[20:45] All right, uh coming back with cooking issues. This special program was brought to you by TechServe, New York's premier authorized Apple reseller and service provider, serving creative professionals at all levels from individual customers to Fortune 100 companies. TechServe has built a solid reputation in their expertise in technology, sales, and service. Visit them on the web at TechServe.com or in New York City at 119 West 23rd Street. Learn more about their in-store classes and incredible insider program.
+
+[21:39] Make stuff happen. We back? We're back. We're back. Uh Bob in Portland writes in regarding the uh egg uh the egg cracking uh thing we had uh last week.
+
+[21:51] By the way, you know, like someone like walked up to me a pastry chef that's everyone has an egg cracking thing. So uh Bob writes, hey Dave, Nastasha, and friends. What's up, friends? Hey. Hey.
+
+[22:01] Uh here's my nearly foolproof egg cracking tip. I hold the egg in the palm of one hand and begin wrapping it with the knuckle of the other hand, like I'm knocking on the door, gently at first and gradually increasing until the egg cracks. I then insert my thumbs and spread the shell apart. No egg white on the side of the bowl or the countertop, Bob in Portland. And uh, you know, it's me the you know the pastry chef was saying, you know, you get the the the tap very gently on the table at the at the at the widest part of the egg and put your finger in, open it so like let me tell you something.
+
+[22:31] Uh I am a freaking gorilla monster in the kitchen. Like if I spent more and it's people are like just to give you an idea, like of kind of like my way I am in in the thing, like uh I just I like to do everything extremely quickly. Right, Stasja shaking your head like like I can't like I can't like uh sp I should spend each time and give every egg the the respect it deserves as I crack it, but like, you know, I just crack the hell out of those eggs really quickly. You know what I mean? The only time I really pay any attention is when I'm separating eggs out.
+
+[23:05] And even then, I don't pay that much attention. And so for instance, when I'm crack when I'm separating eggs out, because I'm gonna like make like a Zabayon or I'm gonna make like a meringue or something like this, right? I never crack the damn yolks. You know what I mean? Like when I throw them into the pot, sometimes I crack them, but I don't really care.
+
+[23:22] You know what I mean? I never crack eggs when I uh egg yolks when I'm making fried eggs, right? Do you think you have that problem? And I'm a I'm a freaking gorilla. You know what I mean?
+
+[23:31] Like I'm I'm the worst person in the world. And so she was this patriot saying that like that's typical for someone who like hangs out with savory people all the time. That you know, like you know, you just crack the crap out of stuff and put it put it through a strainer to make sure that there's no pieces of shells in. She's like, you're a bad person. Who was that?
+
+[23:47] I forget who looked. But uh true though. Bad person. Bad person. Uh at least with regard to that.
+
+[23:54] Right. Um okay, now we got a whole bunch of stuff. We're having some sort of like circulator uh extravagance, all sorts of stuff coming in on circulators, right? Because we had a circulator question last week on the Seattle Food Geek thing, right? So first, before before we do circulators, Dave, are you coming to the party on Sunday?
+
+[24:09] Sunday? Yeah. I don't know. It might come I don't know. I actually I think I'm away this Sunday.
+
+[24:14] Ah. But should we announce the party? Are there still tickets? There are still tickets. Sunday!
+
+[24:19] Sunday, Sunday! That's what I was looking for. Yeah, it's not it's not monster trucks though, right? What do we have? There will be there will be monster trucks.
+
+[24:27] Holy crap, monster trucks? I'm confirming it right now. Oh my god. Are we gonna do this thing at Yonkers Raceway? Where are we gonna do this?
+
+[24:33] That's basically where the party is, yeah. No, it's in the back garden of Robert's. It'll be awesome. Whole hog roast, uh, cocktails, etc. etc.
+
+[24:38] So if you email us now and you confirm that you found out about the party by listening to the show, I'll give you a special discount code. Just uh ask for me. Yeah, what kind of discount they're gonna get? Uh, you know, it's flexible, flexible discount. Ooh, I like the flex discount.
+
+[24:51] Yeah. Yeah. So info at heritage radio network.org. And uh if you're not in New York, get a raffle ticket, win a trip to Seattle. Yeah.
+
+[24:59] By the way, I don't know whether you guys know this, which I'm sure you do. Like this radio station here, this is a 501c3 kind of an operation. And uh, you know, Jack, Joe, Eddie, these guys all need to, you know, Aaron, who comes on every once in a while. These guys all need to like eat, they need to purchase food. You know what I mean?
+
+[25:16] Like the we need uh we need to keep this place on the air. So it helps to uh it it it helps to uh go to these events, and guess what? It's a win-win because you're gonna have a good time, and we get to keep uh providing programming. Am I right about this? Yeah, we can get coffee in the morning.
+
+[25:30] It really helps. Yeah, please, these guys need their coffee in the morning. I think I've got Piper on the line. Ooh, Piper. Uh so Piper, let me uh Hello Piper.
+
+[25:38] Hey Dave. So uh Alvin Schultz, uh who uh did uh some time at Booker and Dax the bar, uh hanging out, figuring out the stuff, uh, and also uh longtime listener here, had a question for you looking for food recommendations. Uh you you went to like uh Ho Chi Minh, right? Oh, that's what I was telling you. Oh, you didn't?
+
+[25:57] Where do you uh yeah, you want to win? So never mind. So you don't have any recommendations for Alvin, huh? Well t well, where where'd you go good in Hunoi? In case he makes it up.
+
+[26:06] Uh uh street food, honestly. You know what you know. You know where he is? He's in he's in Puquet, and I want everyone like when I was when I was and S the exact same thing. You know how we pronounced it when we were adolescents, right?
+
+[26:18] Anyway, so wait, so what'd you have there? Street food. He didn't go to any restaurants? Uh no. He said he was missing in his hotel room.
+
+[26:27] What? Yeah. Because it was too hot to go outside. How hot was it? Is this true, Piper, that you spent all of your time in your hotel room and only went out after dark to get street food?
+
+[26:37] No, I spent from noon till like two in the hotel room. It was too hot. Man. Stas is shaking her head and and making the Piper your busted face, which is another face that none of you will ever get to see. Alright, well, I I apologize for making you call in when you have no useful recommendations for uh Alvin.
+
+[26:57] Sorry about that. That's my favorite call in the history of the show. Alright. Sorry, Piper. You know what?
+
+[27:06] This is why I love Piper, because you can call Piper up and like say something like that, like, you know, I don't know. Do that, and he's he's fine. Pipe inside he's crying. Oh, Piper, good man. Piper's a good man.
+
+[27:19] Okay. Alvin also writes in, do you have any info on the history of pachuga style mezcals? Uh no. But except for the fact that, you know, I've always told the same story that uh that they put basically in the distillation flask so that it kind of uh it it reflux uh distills on uh a piece of meat. So different places would use different kinds of meat, so pachuga obviously used the chicken breast, but other people threw other kinds of meat into the kind of vapor chamber above where the uh mezcal was distilling, and that's where that comes from.
+
+[27:50] But as to why you would do that, only God knows. I don't know this story. But you know, I know some people uh from uh Del Mague and some others, so like you know, uh Ryan Fitzgerald and all these guys. I can next time I speak to them, Alvin, I'll I'll get some uh some history uh on that stuff for you. All right.
+
+[28:06] Uh and Alvin's last question. Uh what does Rhodovap Collection Flask what? What does Rhodovap Collection Flask boil late in the run? How to fix? What does that mean, Stas?
+
+[28:19] You figure out what that means. Oh. Why does it? No, no, no. What what collects?
+
+[28:24] Alvin, I gotta say, I don't exact what? It's like a riddle. It is a riddle. It's a complete riddle. Hey, by the way, uh one last non-cooking related thing.
+
+[28:32] So I have I I I need um the next drink that I come up with at the bar that we don't have a name for. You ready for this one? So Tristan Willie is, you know, one of the bar manager at uh Booker Index. It's his last name is Willie, right? So here's my favorite tongue twister.
+
+[28:46] I'm gonna name the next drink this, ready? Willie's real rear wheel. Say that. Willie's real rear wheel. Wow.
+
+[28:57] You can't say it, it's impossible. So I'm gonna have that be the name of the drink. No, no, I saw it. So tongue twisters, because you know I have kids, and so we're doing tongue twisters. I looked it up.
+
+[29:04] Willie's real rear wheel. And so I'm gonna write that just as the drink name, and it doesn't look imposing. Write it. It looks completely harmless. Can't be can't be said.
+
+[29:13] And so like customers are gonna be like really we're too and they're on their third Willie's. Anyway, so that's my next plan. Okay. Uh back to cooking related questions. So uh circulators.
+
+[29:28] Uh okay. Matt writes in, hey Nastashian crew, I'm working on a new product that will hopefully make Sous V cooking not just cheaper, but also better than current immersion circulator technology. Ooh, coming on coming on strong against the uh against uh our boy P Preston and our uh our boy uh Wee Pop Soupy Pot. AKA Supapipot from NomiCoo. Okay.
+
+[29:47] Uh my question for you guys is what would you like to see improved about current immersion circulators? Are there any pain points or missing features you can think of? Also, where can I send a demo unit once I get one? As I'd love to get your feedback. Well, uh, the address for Booker and Dax Equipment Corporation, if anyone ever wants to send us free stuff, uh, is 54 Eldridge Street storefront.
+
+[30:08] Yes. One New York, New York 1000 2. Uh so anyway, uh, so I don't know, like that's a good question. Like, uh, what's a hassle about about circulators? I mean, there's a lot that's kind of a hassle about them.
+
+[30:23] But there's a lot that's great about them as well. I mean, probably the power be nicer to have more power sometimes. I don't know. I mean, I'm so used to them, so used to what's cleaning them could be a little easier, right, Stas? I hate cleaning them out.
+
+[30:36] You hate well, you Stas never cleans it out. She doesn't give a rat's ass. You have one at home. What? The new one is easier to clean than the old one.
+
+[30:43] What, the plastic one? Yeah. Yeah, because it's got less parts, but it's it's more it's harder to clean in some ways because there's just more parts that you can't see whether they're dirty because they're inside the machine as opposed to the stainless, which got filthy. But uh anyway, it's a good question. Better know.
+
+[30:56] Uh I'd like to hear from people out there what they don't like about their circulators and what they think need to be changed. Regarding also circulators, uh, we had up a Seattle food geek did a circulator build. So uh Chris Hale wrote in regarding Seattle Food Geek circulator build. By the way, for those of you who don't know what we're talking about, very quickly, the circulators, the thing that allows you to keep uh water and sometimes other liquids at very constant temperatures. Absolutely necessary to do low temperature cooking, which is the greatest innovation in cooking in the last 200 years, in my opinion.
+
+[31:23] Seattle Food Geek circulator build. I followed that build and shopping list and had good results, but bending acrylic sucks because we were talking about the box enclosure last week for the uh circulators. Drilling it is frustrating and cutting it as impossible. Then it is hard to clean, not very durable, and looks like crap after a few months. If you don't have a laser C and CNC machine handy, and nobody does but Seattle Food Geek, don't use acrylic.
+
+[31:44] I busted up my acrylic box last week and installed the whole thing in a black ABS. ABS is a kind of plastic that people use, but you know, remember ABS can't uh get too too hot. Uh ABS project uh project box from Radio Shack. For this project, I recommend at least four inches tall by eight inches deep. I put mine in a six by four by three, and I spent most of the weekend rewiring it because the space was too cramped.
+
+[32:04] Then there was one time I plugged it in and welded my AC supply line to the relay, but I'm sure you're smart enough to keep the metal backing of the relay away from the power connections. By the way, one note on this I notice a lot of these DIY things use relays. I hate I hate mechanical relays for this application. Spend the extra three bucks and get everyone, listen to me. Spend the extra three bucks and get a solid state relay.
+
+[32:26] I hate that click, click, click, click that relays make. And I also hate the fact that they have mechanical things in them that can fail because of arcing when things go bad. So just get yourself a solid state relay. They have an infinite lifetime, basically, compared to uh solid state relay. They're never gonna go south on you unless you fry them out.
+
+[32:45] And uh they don't go click. Hate the click. Alright, so back back back to uh Chris's point here. Um but I'm sure you're smart enough to keep the metal backing of the relay away from the power connections. Anyway, uh once you drill a hole in ABS, you can use a file or hacksaw blade to make the hole whatever shape and size you need.
+
+[33:02] It won't crack and it's easy to clean. With some properly sized grommets, the holes for the power cord and circulator pump will be vaportight. It's a good word vaportight. That'd be a good band, right? Yeah.
+
+[33:10] Vaportight. Uh, which was never possible with the acrylic rig. As for the clamp to hold it on the edge of your pan, acrylic is unsuitable for that too. That's true, that will crack. Uh, try a piece of sheet metal or half of a sturdy plastic box held to the project box with screws.
+
+[33:22] Then attach a couple of spring clamps. They're so much faster than some screws, thumb screws, even if they aren't as versatile. Uh, as far as what kind of container you can use them on. Good luck and happy circulating from Chris Hale. And also, uh Criptamp writes in for your question last week.
+
+[33:37] I use an aluminum bar bent with hands over a steel railing, not acrylic, uh, for uh mounting this the uh heater on. In fact, he has no housing at all, so he put the uh electronics for it on the on the outside, just attached by wires over on the other side of the thing. I will say, cryotamp or cryptamp, that uh your situation not exactly OSHA friendly because it looks like I could get zapped pretty good if I didn't pay attention, but I'm sure it will work. And when I made my own circulators and didn't care about getting zapped, I did get zapped all the time. Let's say, look.
+
+[34:07] Oh, is Piper giving us crap for calling him out? He hasn't mailed the torch yet. Um, whatever. Okay, uh we have in from uh Joe Blow. Joe Blow says, People say cooking squid or octopus either needs to be cooked for very long or very quickly.
+
+[34:28] Nothing in between. Why? What's the science behind this? And I gotta say, uh it's another one of those things that I just uh you know, it's just you take it for granted that you, you know, you don't know. And here's the other thing.
+
+[34:39] I read a bunch of scientific papers on uh squid uh and octopus, and uh most of the work on that stuff was done uh in the 80s, um uh and you know, around then in the mid 80s, and the people who were doing it had the typical problem of a lot of scientists when they're doing these kinds of papers, they just they didn't cook it properly. So there's no no one no one did the right experiment from a uh science paper standpoint saying like what exactly is going on in the muscles between a short cook, uh the medium, and the long cook, the toughness in between. However, you can kind of deduce based on uh what's going on that um what's happening. So the interesting thing is squid and octopus uh muscle is very different from uh vertebrate muscles, right? So, first of all, uh it there's uh the the protein compositions are different.
+
+[35:32] So there's much more uh myofibrillar protein, in other words, the actual muscle fiber protein uh in um in squid muscle, as opposed to the sarcoplasmic proteins, which are the ones kind of surrounding and in the cells that aren't the myofibral uh proteins. So those are the ones that actually cause the contraction. This is because squids some strong contraction that sucker, so they can go, right? So they have more of those uh myofibrillar proteins that are gonna cause toughness when they denature. Also, they uh they have pro they have uh fibers running in two different directions, around, right, so they can squeeze, and then also radially, so they can bend and do all sorts of stuff.
+
+[36:12] So they got this this kind of two-direction muscle fiber action going on. Also, the proteins are a little more soluble than they are, so they tend to swell up and bind together and shrink like a mother much more than uh like uh vertebrate proteins do, or even you know, fish yeah, well they're vertebrates duh. So the so here's what happens. My my feeling is that if you before you totally denature those things and they shrink up, which happens somewhere between 50 and 60 Celsius, uh, before that happens, or it happens really quickly, you're gonna have a tender product that you can get on the rare low side. Then as soon as you shrink those suckers, they're gonna be hard like like rubbery like rocks until you cook the ever-loving snot out of them and break those uh stuff.
+
+[36:56] They also have a fairly high pro portion of uh connective tissue in them too. That is giant octopus we cooked? That was awesome, right? Mm-hmm. Yeah, so that one of the I said this like a million times, but like uh, you know, we got a giant uh octopus tentacle.
+
+[37:09] Every octopus tentacle, by the way, tastes a little different because some are more dominant than others, and the octopus tentacle tastes different from the from the tip to the uh to where it attaches to the animal. Uh the tip is a little more, I think, kind of like a little more gummy, a little more like, you know, and I like this stuff kind of in the middle, actually. But anyway, so uh that is what I think is uh going on. Some other interesting things about squid uh and octopus, there's a have a high level of uh pro uh um protein breaking down, protonase uh enzymes in them. And so I would think that prolonged heating, I haven't tested this, but I would think the prolonged heating in the 60-degree range before you ramp it up would also make it very tender.
+
+[37:48] But here's another interesting paper for you. Uh at least interesting to me. Is how gross is this? You ready for this, Doz? And I'll tell you why it's interesting.
+
+[37:55] Tenderization of squid, uh Loligo uh vulgaris, which is loligos are uh uh they're uh a genus of squid uh that are mainly kind of uh they live near the bottom of the ocean, right? Lolligos. And uh illex uh coin deal the ilux ones are the are the more fast swimming kind of ocean-e squids, um, with bromelain, which is a uh pro you know protein tenderizer, right? And you ready for this one? Bovine spleen lysosomal enriched extract.
+
+[38:26] How'd you like to sprinkle that all over your squid? Gross. Gross. But the but here's the here's the really interesting thing that I had never uh thought of before, and um something maybe for you guys to think about is usually when you're thinking about what's happening with protein extracts, uh what you're what you're thinking about is um that things get mushy, right? Because you're breaking down the structure of the proteins.
+
+[38:51] And for something like meat, when you break it down, that's good because it tenderizes, but usually in fish it makes it mushy. But things don't necessarily break down in kind of uh a very uniform way. So both of those things, the bovine spleen lysosome extract and the uh and the bromelane are protease enzymes, but the bromeline, and you can look at the in this paper, it's very interesting. The bromaline, when you treat it with it, makes the squid mushy, and people don't like it. It's more tender, whereas uh the the lysosome, this the spleen, the bovine spleen extract, uh tenderizes it in such a way that it just reduces the shear force the same in all of the parameters of the tasting of the squid.
+
+[39:33] So it reduces springiness by the same amount that it reduces hardness all the way around. It just makes it more tender, but still keeps the same textural properties of squid. So it looks like there's a whole world out there of uh protein breaking down of protein, you know, protonase enzymes out there that we could use to make things more tender without making them mushy, which is something I had never thought of before. Another interesting thing about uh endogenous, meaning inside of the tissue already, uh squid enzymes, is that they are active at alkaline pHs. So soaking in acidity you'd think would make the stuff harder, and there are some research that says that it does.
+
+[40:09] And another thing is is that treating squid with phosphate salts as a brine beforehand and salt in general, the phosphate salts, which I think they don't give a reason for it, but I think it's because it makes it more basic, more alkaline, will help the enzymes more rapidly break down the protein. So phosphate treatments of squid that take it into the slightly uh uh alkaline, like 7.4 range instead of like the slightly um uh acidic range, maybe help the squid get a little softer. Uh and wait, we have time for one time, one more thing. Yeah. Gun.
+
+[40:40] I thought I can talk about one more thing before you can get that thing today now. What thing? Oh, yeah, it's does I'm gonna pound some lunch. So I'm gonna have a giant calzone for for lunch. I'm just gonna eat this whole calzone just by myself.
+
+[40:52] I read this uh crazy paper on uh you ever notice how people uh when they write papers on uh on frying things, they always uh want to reduce the oil in things. That's all everyone ever cares about when they write papers on frying, they want to reduce the oil. So check this out. So when you're making um industrially, when you're making fried things uh for freezing, what you do is is you make your product, you throw in a bunch of gums and all this stuff, and then you f you pre-fry your product, right? And then after you pre-fry it to set the batter, then uh you freeze it, and then when you re-fry it, you cook the batter all the way through, right?
+
+[41:23] Mm-hmm. Make sense? Okay. So um so it's a well-known fact that if you add methyl cellulose to batters, you decrease the oil absorption of the batters because methylcellulose and you know hydroxypropomethylcellos, they have the interesting pro uh property that when they gel when they heat up. Okay.
+
+[41:39] So what's happening is uh you is in water, uh it a hot water, it forms a gel. And this is why it's used in pie filling so that the pie filling doesn't boil out of crust. It's used in barbecue sauces to increase adhesion when they're on the grill and being heated. It's used to make uh those noodles that set when you spray them into soups in in kind of modern cooking, and uh, you know, dumplings that don't bother, you know, the f all those kinds of things, methylcellulose. So, well known fact that if you put it into batters, it decreases oil absorption.
+
+[42:09] These guys dope the hell out of it. They've patented this, believe this or not, in two thousand I didn't know if you could patent stuff like this in two thousand and two. What they do is they make a really loose uh batter thing and then they boil their freaking chicken nuggets like dumplings with methylcellulose in it, then give you this kind of boiled nugget which you then fry later. Doesn't that sound weird? Yeah.
+
+[42:28] Gross, huh? But I kinda wanna try it and see what happens. These kind of boiled methyl cell batter dumplings and then fried. But I don't really see the advantage because I don't really believe that I want to decrease the amount of oil that's in uh my fried foods. Do you mean like you've had my fried foods?
+
+[42:43] They're good. Do you feel that you need to reduce the amount of oil in it? No. No. See, I see like oil is organoleptically delicious.
+
+[42:50] And so like the trick is you don't want your suc stuff to be greasy, but that doesn't mean that you necessarily want to reduce the oil that's on the inside of it. Lunacy. Alright, so the gun. So uh it's a puffing gun, you know, uh as I've said many times, I'll say one more time. Uh what what it is is uh is it's a chamber that you fill with kind of whatever you want, and then you it has the stuff that you fill it with has uh a water content somewhere between twelve and sixteen percent water.
+
+[43:19] You uh seal it tight, you heat it with uh about two hundred thousand BTUs of uh gas flame, you spin it so that it doesn't scorch anywhere, and it heats up to like three hundred and seventy degrees Fahrenheit and like a hundred and fifty to hundred and eighty Psi, and then you hit you hit the sucker with a giant stick, the door flies open, the stuff explodes uh in in puffs because the the water that's inside instantly turns to a steam paper. Well, so we were testing it because uh we had a bunch of people suggesting what we should test, and things that you would expect to work well, like rice, did work well. Although I couldn't taste it when we were making them last week. I tasted them this this week and they were kind of soft, right? I think we need to do some post-dehydration.
+
+[43:57] Were they soft when we were puffing them? Yeah. So we just need to do some post-dehydration before we serve them. They add a little bit of crunch to them. Yeah, but if you're gonna store them for any length of time, they need to be.
+
+[44:07] Yeah, okay. So we did sushi rice, delicious. I'm told. Actually, I tasted it. It tastes good, but the texture wasn't right when I had it.
+
+[44:14] Red basmati rice puffed very well. Popcorn's amazing because they puff into balls, which is pretty cool. Uh buckwheat was kind could be good, wasn't good when we did it, but could theoretically be good, right? Lentils. Okay, so then we tried uh so all the stuff that should have worked work.
+
+[44:30] Now, we have not had any luck with uh with I'm sorry, folks, to we have not had any luck with our weird and alternative stuff yet, right? So first thing we put we do, we were like, how about some red lentils? Red lentils, red lentils, right? Because Peter's like, I love red lentils, I love them. So, like, you know, he doesn't talk like that.
+
+[44:47] Mike kind of does. But anyway, so then like we load the sucker up with red lentils, and uh we heat it up, and I'm standing up there, and I hit it, and uh and we're up at like 160 PSI. Instantly, the entire heritage uh Heritage Foods USA warehouse is filled with lentil dust. The entire place is coated with burnt red lentil dust. The entire place smells like burnt red lentil dust.
+
+[45:13] My like my clothes were covered in in red lentil dust, everything was just red lentil dust. And I was like, I thought it was just a little bit, and I'm like, where is it? Every single lentil had been vaporized. Is that true, Stas? Yeah, that's crazy.
+
+[45:24] So I don't know how you did it that day on your cleanse when everyone eating, puffing things. Yeah, yeah, I know. Like, it's time to eat lunch, guys. Yeah, yeah, I know. Yeah, everyone's like stuffing their face.
+
+[45:34] I'm sitting there working, like not eating anything, working like a demon. Yeah, on top of this like flaming gun. I'm sweating, I'm sweating, not eating anything, and then I can't get other people to like work because they're shoving sandwiches in their face. Lunchtime, Dave. I'm like, well, you know, it goes back to what Stas always says.
+
+[45:53] I'm an animal. Machine. Machine. Mule. Pack mule.
+
+[45:56] Machine. Idiot. Anyway. So uh then so we had this problem with uh we originally planned on the puffing gun to have glass uh around it, right? And then uh on our first Kickstarter test when we exploded our plexigl plexi, we're like, maybe we should switch to Lexan.
+
+[46:11] You know, maybe not a good idea to throw shards of glass into into into people's eyes during a thing. So then we put Lexan up and we realized that it steams up almost instantly and you can't see through it. So then we're like, okay, so we're gonna test a screen, right? So we go to Home Depot and we put uh like a literally like a window screen up, and then then after we put up the window screen, we decide to test chickpeas and soybeans, right? Let me tell you something.
+
+[46:35] Not only did that that not work, but the chickpeas and soybeans blasted through the netting and like hit us. Made holes. Made holes through the netting and hit us like like like like buckshot, like babies, right? So anyway, so we have no luck with chickpeas. We have no luck with soybeans, although I feel that we could get it right.
+
+[46:53] We did pasta. When pasta comes out of the puffing gun, as opposed to pasta that you you know puff using the traditional chef's technique of puffing pasta. Uh, when you puff it in the gun, it looks like describe it, Stas. It's like gnarled. Some sort of like weird asteroid, like gnarled craziness, deformed thing.
+
+[47:11] It's like it's like imagine it's puffing like in like a 300 mile an hour wind. You know why? Because it's puffing in a 300 mile an hour wind. You know what I mean? It's like this pasta, it's like, you know, what what even shape were those?
+
+[47:23] Were those like penne or something? Uh Chicilli, I think. We did like a couple, yeah. We had one with their lines in it, though. Yeah, we did it if we see it.
+
+[47:29] But imagine like that's puffing and flying out of the gun at a zillion miles an hour, and it just has this warped freakish look to it. It was weird. What do you think of that stuff? The taste. What the look of it?
+
+[47:41] The look was weird. Yeah, weird. Some people liked it because it looks like pasta chicha. Uh I want to do chicken skins and things like that. Anyway, so uh we will let you know as we test it out.
+
+[47:54] Uh what it's not next week, it's the week after the puff party, right? It's Tuesday. Next Tuesday is a puff party? Yeah. So I'll report back from the morning of the puff party next week.
+
+[48:04] Cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org.
+
+[48:35] Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by the International Culinary Center. Offering courses that range from classic French techniques in culinary, pastry, and bread baking to Italian studies to management. From culinary technology to food writing, from cake making to wine tasting. For more information, visit International Culinary Center.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn.
+
+[0:23] If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your hook of what? Your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from a birth pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn, joined as usual with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. We got Jack and Joe in the engineering booth.
+
+[0:48] How's everyone doing? See what happens when you miss two weeks? Can't even do the intro. I didn't miss I miss one week. Oh yeah.
+
+[0:54] Well. But you know, of course you're gonna trip up on the word host. I scared literally, like these guys, like at the there's a table that sits right by the radio window, and they're like, what the what the and they're they're gone. Call negotiations to 7184972128. That's 7184972128.
+
+[1:09] And I haven't said this in a while, but uh true. Uh remember, you can call us with pretty much any question, right, guys? I mean, it doesn't have to be technical. I mean, usually is, but uh Nastasha, speaking of technical right now, this is like a very meta Nastasha moment. She's reading, uh, as we say, we she noticed because she looks at things, believe it or not.
+
+[1:28] The uh they have a book that was shipped in to us, not us, but uh the radio, the radio station, called the Vegan Stoner Cookbook. So Nastasha is gonna have a definition of the vegan stoner, which is one who satisfies the munchies with resourceful creative, instinctive cooking without using animal products. Wait, say it again. One who satisfies the munchies with resourceful, creative, instinctive cooking without using animal products. Are you are you can you do instinctive things when you're stoned out of your mind?
+
+[1:59] Or is it pretty like I like look, I'm not I'm not a stoner, but mo most of my f friends who like who hit up quite a lot, uh they don't necessarily make their best cooking decisions when they're stoned out of their mind. Just saying. And all their fruits and vegetables are have a stoner face going on in this. Yeah. Well, you know, look, hopefully pretty soon.
+
+[2:20] Uh I mean, look, I have some friends who are kind of very deep into um cooking and making liquor products with uh with cannabis. And um, you know, maybe soon it'll be legal for me to work on those things as well. But uh I mean I I've never I've never really tried tried that stuff out. You uh she's looking at these vegetables are they like the vegetables in the book are quite they're they they look it's not Nastasha's vegan face, I'll tell you that. These guys are much different vegan face.
+
+[2:52] Much different vegan face. They're all their eyes are all at half mast. It's pretty yeah. I predict at least three write ins or call ins related to this subject now. Yeah, so we'll see.
+
+[3:01] Well, why don't you call out the uh authors of the book here who we don't know these guys? We got a call coming in right now, hold on. Hello, caller, you're on the air. This is John Doe calling in uh talk to me today. How are you doing?
+
+[3:14] It's me, it's Dave. What's up? Hey, what's up? Nothing online? Yeah, yeah, you were on air.
+
+[3:19] Uh by the way, uh John Doe, uh big help at the puff party uh event that we had last Tuesday. I thought well based success, didn't you think so? Yeah, it was awesome. It was uh really cool to be able to puff the stuff I brought as well. And yeah, you learned everything all about the puffing gun and the moisture tester and all that stuff.
+
+[3:37] It was a blast. Your mix of uh it was Teff, uh what was it, what was the th it was Teff, Tapioca, what was the third? And millet. Millet. Man, that was the I think the best puff we had uh of the evening.
+
+[3:50] Uh I thought that that stuff was delicious. Although later, by the way, for those who don't know what we're talking about, we're talking about an explosive puffing gun that the Museum of Food and Drink has as their first kind of temporary exhibit. And uh when we so uh you know, John Doe uh came and uh puffed a bunch of stuff with us, including that mix I just told you about. And it was the best, by far far and away the best. So then when we did the Saturday public event, we got some tapioca pearls and puffed them just on their own, and they turned into giant like like cumulus cloud styro balls.
+
+[4:25] It was the weirdest thing ever. It was not as good the tapioca when we did it without the full mix of stuff. Really interesting. Yeah, that's awesome. Yeah.
+
+[4:34] So um kind of wanted to call the follow-up and uh um give you guys the shout out, ex especially uh Piper and Nastasha for showing me such hospitality. And also uh headed over to uh BDX and got some rye drinks from Nick and uh he uh cooked me up some uh pretty amazing stuff. Nice. Nice. But uh I also had some questions.
+
+[4:53] Uh kind of wanted to follow up on uh suggestions for puffing. Um we had talked, um Piper and I kinda uh concocted some possibility of uh throwing some cocoa nibs in with um some rice uh to be able to make, you know, cocoa puffs, uh auto cocoa puffs. Um I was just wondering what your your thoughts are on our um on that. Well I mean my feeling is i it like when we put things in that are weird, like for instance the last puff of the day that we did on Saturday, we threw in uh almonds and um lobster and and uh what? Lobster shells.
+
+[5:30] No, that was on the party day. And then uh sunflower seeds and a bunch of stuff. Didn't puff. Uh I don't know that cocoa I I'd have to look up cocoa nibs. My f my strong feeling is something that high in oil will tend to melt out.
+
+[5:42] I mean I know maybe not though, in the present in the lack of water. I mean, we'll try it someday, but as you say, we'll try it in an absence of um i mean sorry, i i in with a multitude of other stuff so that it's the minor constituent. This way, if it goes horribly wrong, the horrible wrongness can be absorbed uh by the rest of the batch and not all over the inside of the gun. Like we notice that when we make mistakes, the mistakes tend to melt themselves onto the inside of the gun and then require require kind of a uh bit of a hardcore cleaning. That happened in one of our tapioca batches actually.
+
+[6:16] We had to run a clean uh mid event on Saturday because the tapioca completely melted itself to the inside. And once it when it's melted and open, it carburizes very quickly but doesn't solidify fast enough to flake it off, and so you get this kind of sludge in the gun. Which but but but more and uh again I couldn't find our c our green coffee because I know I want to puff green coffee uh as well. But a lot of that has to do with the starch content. I don't know if you know, but Sweet Maria's has a pretty cool site.
+
+[6:46] It it pretty much you know breaks everything down. It's it's a ridiculous information gathering site for anybody who wants to roast coffee. Yeah, I used to I used to buy my green beans from them. But back when I used to roast uh I used to roast my own all the time. Uh it was, you know, for years that was my ritual.
+
+[7:03] That I used to buy beans from them. Yeah. Okay, cool. Um I I just had a side question on a project I'm working on. I'm trying to make fish sauce bacon.
+
+[7:12] And, you know, basically I've been um, you know, doing the standard uh dry cure plus adding a little bit of fish sauce. I can't seem to get enough fish sauce bump into it. I mean I can kind of feel that there's extra umami, but I want to really juice it up and I was thinking about doing um, you know, basically uh boiling off the liquid and creating you know, uh creating a fish salt to do the curing process and add the nitrates afterwards. Right. And I'm wondering if I'm gonna lose anything in terms of flavor when I do that.
+
+[7:43] And obviously I don't have a rotary evaporator, but um what you had in terms of thoughts on that. Yeah, you're gonna lose a lot. I mean, like depend look, you're gonna lose a lot anyway on the cook off of the bacon, right? But I mean so much of uh so much of fish sauce, I mean look, fish sauce is a couple of different things. It's salty, right?
+
+[8:04] It's it's high in uh umami because of uh protein and lipid breakdown product. Well, not not um because of lipid but protein breakdown products, but it also got a lipid breakdown products in there, right? Uh and so but it has a huge volatile component as well. So my feeling is is you'll be able to get you know, a lot of the more stable stuff in there, but you're gonna lose a lot of the volatile um characteristics of it. I don't know what the salt content of a standard fish sauce is, but they're w they're widely variant depending on brand.
+
+[8:38] I remember that from my research years ago. Um but um you don't want to just you don't want the high liquids content. Is that the is that the problem? I would just Yeah, I mean I I l I like the fact that when you dry chur it stays flat and you don't lose a lot of liquid. I mean, I realized that I could do an injection method uh like they do in industry, so I could try that too, right?
+
+[8:59] Well, I mean what you could do is you could dry it, right, and then you could just have you you could sorry, you're right, inject it wet, but then just go through a little bit of a uh relatively high um a relatively high uh uh humidity dry down period in the fridge before you smoke it out. You know what I'm saying? Oh, okay, yeah, yeah. Flash off some of the extra moisture that you put into it by injecting, but my my feeling is is that if you really want that flavor uh of fish sauce, which you know, every every you know uh some people they don't like the smell of it, but they're just mistaken. This you know the stuff is delicious.
+
+[9:38] Uh if you want that, then you know, I I would go with uh I would use very little else uh because my guess I mean it depends on the fish sauce you use, but it's probably pretty close to what you need, right? I mean uh I mean is it uh I I gotta remember the percentages of it, but then and and then just let a little bit of the moisture uh flash off under controlled uh conditions of temperature for a while prior to smoked down. Okay, sounds good. So just as a close out, uh I was wondering if you had a chance to try uh the IPA I dropped off at BDX. I haven't.
+
+[10:12] I'm going there I'm going there tonight. I'm gonna hopefully get a hold of it tonight and we'll give you a shout out next week. Awesome. Well, that's if it's well, let me know if it's good or bad. Um we thought it came out pretty good.
+
+[10:21] Alright, well, what was your uh what was your uh uh initial gravity on that? Alright, cheers. Wait, wait, wait, what was the OG on the IPA? Do you what would what was the uh what was the uh OG? What was the specific gravity on the wart?
+
+[10:34] Do you remember? Uh we didn't really um go through that whole process. We were kind of drinking and smoking things um in terms of meat. Right. Uh so we were just kind of doing uh uh quick brew, so we didn't pay attention too much to that's how smoking meats not smoking what the vegan stoner is smoking, presumably.
+
+[10:53] Exactly. All right. All right. Well uh we'll uh we'll we'll let you know what happens. All right, cheers.
+
+[10:59] Uh cheers, thanks for calling in. Uh okay. Oh, by the way, back to the vegan stoner thing. Did you see the uh did you were you watching the CNN Sanjay Gupta's weed thing? Oh yeah, I saw that.
+
+[11:09] You saw I thought I was really interested by that. Why don't you give a synopsis? Uh unless we did not watch it. Well the synopsis is that uh you know, remember when um remember when Peter Tosh said legalize marijuana in in a Jamaica. Remember this?
+
+[11:24] He has a song, he has several songs actually on the subject, but you know, it goes through the medicinal uh the medicinal benefits of uh marijuana and turns out that it's probably true. You know? Anyway. Uh so uh Landon Young writes uh writes in on the Twitter. He's at Food Geeky.
+
+[11:41] Uh cooking issues, planning a Vitamix versus the competition blend off. What tasks would show off slash reveal the blender's strengths and weaknesses. I like that it's uh Vitamix versus everybody else. Now listen. Listen, here's the deal.
+
+[11:56] There's a couple of things that that it are hard to judge. And and uh, you know, I remember I think it was I forget who it was, it was either Consumer Reports or um what's it what's the one that uh from Boston, the magazine from Boston. I I was an initial subscriber, uh Cooks Illustrated. Uh did a uh did a I was I was one of the I was a charter I had the charter issues of that. That's awesome.
+
+[12:16] Yeah, it's good it was yeah. Anyway, it's wrong. But the uh the point is is that people often do the wrong things with blenders and don't really show off why uh Vitaprep is such a piece of butt kicking machinery, right? Now uh for instance, w most of the time when people review it, they're like, Does it make a smoothie as fast as uh some of the other blenders? Is it smoothie?
+
+[12:40] Nobody cares. Uh in a kitchen, a professional kitchen, nobody cares about a smoothie, right? What was it? What? You have a collar.
+
+[12:46] Oh, all right. We'll get back to the blenders in a second. Caller, you're on the air. Hi, Dave and everyone else. Um I just wanted to call in and ask um a little more information about Ikmay.
+
+[12:59] Oh nice um, which I understand a little bit about. I know it's the process of you know, killing fish and inserting rods into their spinal cord to prevent or I guess um kind of delay rigomortis. But right. What is the real reason people do it? Um I guess I heard like firmer flesh, but like what are the upsides and downsides?
+
+[13:25] And why not more people do? Okay. That uh excellent questions. By the way, you wanna do you wanna call out your name or no? Oh, hi, I'm Kate.
+
+[13:33] Hey Kate. So the uh f first of all, e ikajime in general is the whole battery of uh Japanese fish killing techniques, okay. And then the specific technique of uh destroying the spinal cord is uh they've told me is called uh uh Shinke Nuki, which means like no spine, I think, right? And it involves running uh a a wire up the spinal cord. So all the Japanese fish killing techniques are designed, whether or not you believe they work or not, are designed to uh increase the quality of the uh of the of the fish flesh.
+
+[14:10] I've noticed it most most pronounced in um in the firmness and the texture of of the fish although there are some taste differences we've noticed as well and uh also the you know we have found that the it's more it's makes more of a difference in raw prepped as opposed to cooked prepped although some people disagree with me but that this but so that that's what it is but the the idea is this it in an in a nutshell is that the standard Western style killing technique of just whacking it something over the head or bleeding it out while it's alive or letting it suffocate to death uh in a well of a boat uh is puts a lot of stress on the fish as it's dying and the stress from the the fish dying whether it's you know because of hypoxia because it doesn't have enough oxygen or whether it's uh you know blunt trauma and bleed out all this stuff or you know just uh what you know whatever's pumping through the fish's system as it's as it's in its fight or flight uh mode uh the all of those things have uh deleterious qualities on the quality of the flesh from an eating standpoint now the ekigime especially the spinal cord destruction right so equijime starts with uh severing the brain's connection to the rest of the of the fish right so you're shutting off all of the you're shutting off all of the transmissions from the brain to the muscles of the fish and presumably therefore shutting off the ability of the dying fish brain to make changes to its uh body chemistry now they so the the way that I was taught originally was just to sever the spinal cord, but on larger fish, I really think it's a better idea to, and they make these special curved knives, that you actually take out the brain of the fish prior to severing the spinal cord, right? Now, when you when you sever the spinal cord, this the spinal cord severing it both at the tail and at the front is also a bleeding technique because uh you know the belief in Japan, and I think you know, it's pretty much borne out that you want to get most of the blood out, and by severing the uh the arteries uh near the head and at the tail, you get a fairly efficient pump out of blood into water. So that's why you'll see in these techniques the fish will be cut and then bled in water often to get most of the salt water, usually isotonic, hopefully, to the fish's blood system, pump out the blood to get a well-bled fish. Okay. Now, so the then the real question is, and it seems fairly easy to understand that you're going to influence the quality of the fish flesh by uh quickly killing the brain or severing the spinal cord.
+
+[16:44] The interesting question is this extra step of shoving a wire up the spinal cord, well, what the hell can that accomplish, right? Right. Well, it turns out that uh the spinal cord continues to send electrical impulses to the muscles uh even in the absence of uh you know uh central nervous system control from the brain. So what what happens is is that uh if you don't destroy the spinal cord, especially in very uh kind of long swimming, like pelagic style fish like tuna, striped bass, these kinds of things, um, the the spinal cord will continue to send messages to the muscle to contract, and therefore the muscles will uh the muscles will use more ATP, which is the energy store of the muscle, uh, than they will if you destroy the spinal cord. And the faster the ATP is used up, the faster the fish goes into rigor mortise, and usually the harder the fish goes into rigor mortise.
+
+[17:42] And fish flesh is so delicate that hard rigor can actually do damage such that when it comes out of rigor mortise, that fish is um it starts having uh gaping in the in the in the in the flesh that the flesh is softer and not as firm as it would be had you delayed rigor mortise. And so that's kind of the the those are the overarching reasons for the techniques. Okay. Um and I guess is it primarily um I mean the texture but also like is it so people can keep the fish longer or something? Like can that I mean so so s what we used to call Western style fish killing when we did it was you know it it does deteriorate more quickly, but the interesting thing about Ikajima look fish actually isn't best the second you catch it, regardless of what you know anyone's going to tell you.
+
+[18:34] Very few preparations taste good with I mean there's a there's whole nations of people with billions of people that will disagree with me on this. But you know most of us in uh either a Japanese style preparation most Japanese style preparations or in a western style preparation prefer a fish that's come out of rigor mortise, right? And and everybody knows you have to either you have to either eat the fish before it goes into rigor, which means instantaneously after death you have to cook it or you have to wait for it to go through rigor. And even if you do it before rigor sets in, uh you know it's still going to be a lot firmer and almost crunchy for a lot of preparations and you can use that to your advantage. But um you really kind of want the fish to come out out of rigor.
+
+[19:15] So it's true that when you have something that has had the spinal cord destroyed, it takes longer for it to come out of rigor. So its optimum eating point usually happens after the optimum eating point of a standard Western style kill fish. But uh that fish at its best is usually for the ones where it responds well to this technique, uh, is usually at its its best is usually much better than the Western style variant, and the Western style variant will get softer and mushier much faster than the um than the spinal cord uh ablated one will. And as to your other question I didn't answer, which is why don't more people do it, well, part of it is education and part of it is is high cost. Um and the and the other thing is that you know if you if you take a fish and you um and you pull it on a boat and it's had a huge fight, right?
+
+[20:09] It's already gone through a lot of the problems that are going to cause it to, you know, it's it's exhausted most of its ATP. It's uh, you know, it's it's gone through a lot already, and so the benefits might be marginal at that point. You know, when you're when they're killing a very high value fish like tuna, uh, especially in farm situations, they will uh electrostun so the fish doesn't know anything that's happening, pull it up on deck and and put the spinal cord uh do the spinal cord ablation because they know that the market value of the fish is so high. Uh you know, there's also experiments in um there's experiments in uh Australia and New Zealand, not experiments, they're commercial, where uh in New Zealand you're allowed to use uh fish anesthetic aqueest, which is based on clove oil, isousinol, and they use that to anesthetize the fish prior to bleed out because they've seen that the uh a less afraid or less uh, you know, whatever you want to call, you know, what's going on in the fish's brain prior to slaughter, is that if there's less of that going on, that the quality is uh is better. And so those guys, it's not approved, or at least wasn't last time I looked here in the US, strangely, but uh it's an ongoing area of research, and most of it's driven by economics.
+
+[21:14] Cool. Um yeah, I guess I guess that explains it. I just heard the term recently and looked it up and thought I should call an ask. Yeah, well, please. Uh you know, I I love it.
+
+[21:32] I haven't had a uh I haven't had the opportunity to do a lot of experimenting with it uh recently. My hope was always that the more we bring attention to it as a technique, the more um you know, fish sellers will start to you know to demand this process both side and then uh demand a premium price for it. And then if you people start calling it out, then you'll see more of it in the marketplace, especially for things that we intend to eat as sushi grade. And so it's you know, the the idea isn't that most of us are ever going to practice it or that restaurant-wise, you should practice it because by the time a live fish makes it to a restaurant, it's been pretty abused, usually. You know what I mean?
+
+[22:10] Um the idea is is to uh have people um accept the general um ex accept the the benefits of the practice and pay more pay more for it, and then it'll happen more, I think. Great. Cool. All right. Well, thank you.
+
+[22:25] Thank you. Thanks for calling in. All right, so back to the Vita Prep. So about a quick break. Oh, all right.
+
+[22:30] Uh we'll take a quick break coming up. We had a shout out Chris Hubbing, who became a member, listener of cooking issues. Thanks for the support. Thank you. Thank you.
+
+[22:39] We're coming back with cooking issues. The International Culinary Center is a proud sponsor of the Heritage Radio Network.org. The ICC with locations in New York and California provide cutting edge education to future chefs, restaurateurs, and wine professionals. We're proud to claim Dan Barber, Bobby Flay, and David Chang among our honored alumni. This is Dorothy Can Hamilton from Chef's Story.
+
+[23:54] Check out our ICC website at international culinary center dot com. Jack, is that your magical Zamphere stuff in the background? Oh, yeah. I like that. It's like you know, spa it's like a the uh space space center.
+
+[24:09] It's like it's like music NASA would play. Yeah, planetarium music, basically. Yeah. Yeah, like that. All right, good.
+
+[24:14] For vegan stoners. V Vegan Stoners Planetarium ICC music. Exactly. I would love to see Dorothy stoned out of her mind. Oh wow.
+
+[24:23] Oh uh did I say that on air? Anyway. All right. Uh apparently we have a caller, caller, you're on the air. Yeah, hi, this is Patrick calling from Orient New York.
+
+[24:31] Where's Orient New York? I've been I think I've been there. Where is it? It's at the very, very tip of the North Fork of Long Island. Uh no, I haven't.
+
+[24:38] Right on there. I'm thinking of Maine. There's an Orient, Maine, I've been to. Go ahead. So I have a question about canning or really preserving fish in oil in jars.
+
+[24:49] I've sort of I've been trying it without fully curing a fish, just salting it lightly overnight in the refrigerator, then barely cooking it in water and then covering it in oil. And this way I know it's not fully cured, it's not really safe to have it at room temperature, but it seems to last like a week or two in the fridge without any ill effects. Right. Um and it tastes really, really good, even if you just use uh a neutral cooking oil. The question I have is now I have access to a huge amount of bluefish out here that I sort of would like to make a lot of this before the season ends, and I'm wondering if it's suicidal to to use this method, you know, without without doing the full, you know, boil for three hours, pressure tan, etc.
+
+[25:34] That's sort of the traditional uh fish preservation technique. Right. That's a very interesting question. And you know, uh I can't make any offhand uh I'll I'll say this. If you if you add nitrites to it, right?
+
+[25:50] I don't know if you want to, but you know look, everyone knows what we're talking about here. We're worried about botulism, right? Uh and and other kind of there are some other, especially in fish actually, some some uh some cold tolerant um spore forming pathogens, I'm pretty sure. I gotta it's been a while since I've looked up this this process. But fish keeping is is a whole science and of it of itself, and people definitely remember preserve things for long periods, think locks, uh in a frid in a fridge environment that haven't been cooked to hell.
+
+[26:22] Right? Uh but I believe you're gonna want to add there's a couple things you need to know. You need to know what the moisture content of it is and you need to know how much salt you're gonna add. And then you're gonna want to add I would guess for safety's sake s some nitrites to it. And if you um not AIDS ITS, but if and if you if you get the right combination of that and I'm sure this is look upable on the web, then as long as you aren't going to store it at room temperature, if you're gonna keep it refrigerated, you could probably uh make a safe product that's fairly close to what you're doing.
+
+[26:58] It's not going to be shelf stable. It's not canned. But you could probably make something that will inhibit uh the growth of the of the kind of really nasty uh stuff in the fridge. Uh but I'm I'm a hesitant to give you any actual numerical recommendations over the air without doing a lot of research first. But this is this is I was I was looking up traditional recipes and these sort of you know they have you cook the hell out of the fish for like you know for a long period and then can it that so I guess you know that that will destroy the texture of the fish.
+
+[27:31] I mean I'm not I don't have access to a canner where I am the first place. Right. It seems like that the best flavor on the small scale extern experiments I've done have been on stuff that's not it doesn't feel fully cured once it's once it's out you know out of the salt. It sort of it has it just has a texture slight texture still fresh fish. So it seems to be that that's what I'm sort of worried about is that the best flavor is not something that's gonna be safe at the cure level with the amount of salt and and like you said, adding adding adding nitrite to it as well.
+
+[28:03] Right. Well, remember the cooking itself isn't isn't obliterating the really dangerous stuff. It's obliterating the normal stuff. It's the canning that obliterates the normal stuff. And the reason that you probably have to cook the crap out of it first is because you're probably getting rid of water at that point.
+
+[28:19] You're lowering the water activity through a cooking. I mean, think about how uh confie works. You know? You're you you do a long cook on it, and the meat is salty and dry. You know what I mean?
+
+[28:30] In a good way. I mean, I happen to love confie. But but you know, you're you're like the cook step isn't just a cook step, it's also a water control measure. Um although you you could do a straight pressure can of the fish without the initial cook step after the curing and get a higher mush, but it's still gonna be cook you're gonna be cooking the hell out of it. I would I mean the the other the other thought I had is this something that once you cover it in oil and let it, you know, I don't know, it's a fl the flavor has pretty much been the same over you know one day versus 14 days in the fridge, so it seems to not really age that much after after the in the cure and the cooking.
+
+[29:10] Is this something that you could actually put in the freezer covered in oil and safely? Yeah, well if you come out intact. Uh intact-ish. You know, it like you're better off probably doing yeah, I mean, like doing it after the freezing it after the full step. Yeah, botulism shouldn't grow in the freezer.
+
+[29:33] Yeah you know what I mean? It it should not grow in in the freezer. Um I'm willing to take the you know the experimental loss of you know, a couple giant bluefish, you know, in the in the greater interest of flavor here, because they're just they're so cheap here. They're like two dollars a pound, for really? Yeah.
+
+[29:51] I mean an eight-pound fish. So I really love bluefish. Just grilled anything. I really love bluefish. Blue fish is really delicious.
+
+[29:58] Uh yeah, freezing, nothing should grow. Again, double check everything. Nothing of import should grow in uh in the freezer. Remember that I've never actually put a liquid oil pack in the freezer before. Most times when you age uh oil oil oil canned fish, they're aging for years.
+
+[30:19] You know what I mean? So like uh, you know, a lot of those changes, especially in the canned, you know, hermetically canned stuff, you're talking about years of changes, not you know, days or weeks. Uh you know, and and in comfy when you age it even, it's like you know, like a month or more when you age like a duck confie, which I love that aged duck confie flavor. But um I I yeah, I feel fairly comfortable that if you freeze it, you're gonna be in a safe zone. But I've never I've never frozen a packed product in a liquid fat before.
+
+[30:50] I've only frozen them in a solid pack. Remember when you freeze, freezing actually can accelerate um uh rancidity of of things. Uh because uh the water fraction that's there is more concentrated, and so you can have things go rancid uh pretty hardcore in the f in the freezer uh if there's any oxygen. So you're gonna want to really pack that stuff without any air at all. Mm-hmm.
+
+[31:14] I mean, obviously it's covered in oil, so it's gonna be less of a problem, but you want to get all the air out of the bag. Yeah. And you think just something like canola oil would f freeze it? I mean I've pre I I've frozen you know, like like you said, solid fat pretty well, but it just never you know, it never really comes up of of of freezing. Yeah.
+
+[31:32] Freezing liquid fat. I mean, most of your liquid fats have been winterized, so they're not gonna freeze at all. Do you know what I mean? In the in the freezer. I mean, like they s uh I would guess that canola is completely winterized and won't go solid, although I've never put it in the freezer.
+
+[31:44] I mean, olive oil gets sludgy, right? Yeah. Uh and and also tastes good, but the uh costs more. But the uh yeah, canola, and my guess is that canola will stay. I don't I don't I don't remember what temperature canola starts getting sludgy because it's been a long time since I've like you know tried to I've done cold oil certification of agar with something like grapeseed, but you know, so it's been a long time since I've tested the limits of sludginess of those oils.
+
+[32:14] But they're all winterized, so they shouldn't probably get too solid in the freezer. But it's still it's just the temperature and not and not the consistency that that matters from the food safety standpoint. Yes, that is my guess. All that is my that is my educated guess. Yes.
+
+[32:29] That is the temperature. I have all this I have this duck fat out there too that maybe I can put the fish in there. Without trying to really uh you know, combination of of of species experiments. I don't know, I like that. Remember like there's that famous uh the famous uh Chinese dish called happy family where it's like all different kinds of animals put together.
+
+[32:47] No is Arc with the translation of it. Yeah, well I would I've I'll I'll I'll I I'm gonna start this experiment. I'll report back. Yeah, please do. Let us know how it goes.
+
+[32:55] Thank you so much. All right, thank you. Okay, then bye bye. Orient New York, you ever been there, Stas? You've been out for the tip?
+
+[33:01] Yeah, no, we're not there though. Have you? No. Alright, listen, I'm gonna get through this Vitaprep thing now. All right.
+
+[33:05] Now uh we were talking about Vitapreps versus other blenders. There's two things. There's one, there's ultimate blending ability, right? And other blenders, the uh blend tech, for instance, have you know, very good blending capabilities. And there's another one I saw that's a lot cheaper than a Vitaprep that actually has, I think is is blade interchangeable with the Vitaprep called the Omni Blender, also has a three horsepower motor.
+
+[33:29] Omniblender. Anyway, it has a three horsepower motor and like a really kind of like a good looking blade, actually. In fact, it looks like the blade might be superior to Vitape's. I'm not sure. But uh, and it's a lot cheaper, but when you look at the controls for it, you realize that one of the reasons that cooks love vita preps is not based on, you know, uh making fruit smoothies.
+
+[33:51] It's the control mechanisms of Vitapeps are amazing. Two paddle switches and a knob. Very intuitive, very good for cooks. So any um any rating of professional quality blenders has to take into account what it's like to use them when you're cooking uh, you know, especially when you're cooking heavy duty in a kitchen over long periods and you need it to have a good touch, a good feel. And I think one of the reasons, other than blend blending ability that uh we all love the vita prep so much is the the way that it becomes an extension of your hands.
+
+[34:25] Uh the thing we hate about it is that if you lose the plunger, which cooks invariably lose the freaking plunger, you have to beat on it to get it to blend properly. Although they have new, they have a new picture that apparently is much better in that regard, closer to what the uh blend tech picture is like. Here are some things to test out. Can you blend a pound of bacon into a tomato sauce and have it be silky smooth? Right?
+
+[34:47] That's a good test. Um other things like that. I mean, that what's interesting about the Vitapep isn't that you can make a smoothie with it. What's interesting about it is that you no longer need to use a Tammy when you're making sauces because the Vitaprep can make things that smooth. So those are the things that you want to uh to test.
+
+[35:05] And then if you absolutely need to, you can see whether or not it makes a decent margarita. Right? Yeah. Although I do like myself a frozen margarita. Me too.
+
+[35:14] Stuff tastes taste good. I mean what so you know what the thing is, people like some stuff that you grew up with, yeah, it's day class A, stuff delicious, delicious. You know, it's like I'm I'm sick of people hating on things that are common if they taste good. You know what I mean? Mm-hmm.
+
+[35:27] Yeah, I'm sick with that. Anyway. Uh Aaron Morin from Edmonton, Canada. Edmonton, Alberta, Canada, by the way. Calls in about cooling.
+
+[35:34] Hey all, just had a quick question about supercooling with a circulator. I soon remember Dave briefly touching on the topic using the circulator to speed along the chilling uh process post-cooking. This got me thinking, can I drop my water bath below freezing without destroying my wonderful circulator? I've noticed it goes below freezing, but I'm too scared to drop it down out of fear of destroying my baby. I think of putting uh unopened bottles of water in the bath for an hour or so.
+
+[35:56] Uh, should I put some ice or salt in there as well? I have an old school poly science 7306 model. That's this old stainless uh bottom one, the old uh one that's Daz's favorite. She had her happy face on there. Could I do it with other models?
+
+[36:08] Should I protect the bottles so they're not being knocked around in the icy bath? Thanks in advance. Aaron Marin from Edmonton, Alberta. P.S. Can you answer this on the next show?
+
+[36:15] Because I'm waiting to do this technique on a dinner party on Saturday. Okay, look it. Look at you. Look, I use this technique all the time with uh my circulator. Uh that circulator, uh, if my memory serves me, can go down to about minus 20 Celsius.
+
+[36:29] That's the lowest I've ever taken. I don't know if it goes below that. I meant to test it in the newer plastic one before I came in, but I forgot. I forgot to test it, uh, whether or not that thing can be set below zero. But uh, yeah, so here's what you do.
+
+[36:42] Uh and I do this all the time at events where I want to chill down large batches of cocktails, is one of my favorite cocktail chilling techniques for events because uh it's fairly accurate. You get a big uh tray, uh, you fill it with vodka, uh, cheap, cheap, cheap, cheap, cheap, cheap vodka, and then you throw dry ice into it, and then you set the circulator in on high circulation and you set it to whatever you want your cocktail temperature to be, right? And then you just let it run, and what happens is as the um as the dry ice chills it below your set point, the heater will come on and will heat your the uh vodka back up to the temperature you want it to be, and then as you notice that uh the dry ice is almost gone, you break off a couple more chips of dry ice and you throw it in, and you can keep a very accurate temperature on drinks for hours. And this is my favorite way to do carbonated batch or to hold uh like large batch cocktails for long periods of time. And I've done it many, many, many, many times, and I've never hurt the circulator, not once.
+
+[37:45] You could probably also do it with salt water, be aware that uh you might eventually pit or corrode the 316 stainless uh that is on it with uh large amounts of salt. Uh but salt water bass can be controlled just on a uh on a salt ice basis. Um, you know, you might not need the circulator, you might need the circulator, but you might not need the heating effect. I typically use dry ice. Uh that's the way I do it.
+
+[38:12] Okay. Uh John Riper writes in about peaches. That's Apropos, right? The name Riper Peach is good, right? Yeah.
+
+[38:19] Uh Deer Cooking Issues Peace, Pacific Northwest food goo uh food guru. By the way, you like tongue twisters? No, go ahead and do it. Willie's No, you did it last time, actually. What?
+
+[38:29] I didn't set it, yeah. Uh yeah, anyway. I can't tongue twisters. Pacific Northwest food guru. John Rowley has always preached that getting great peaches.
+
+[38:37] This is John's giving us all preached grape peach. It's a tongue-twisting uh question we got here. Has always preached that getting great peaches means never having to say they've been refrigerated. But I've never heard why chilling picked peaches screws up their final ripening process. Can you explain it?
+
+[38:53] Also, I've heard different opinions about whether the sugar content in peaches goes up after they've been picked. What's the truth? John Riper in Seattle. Uh I don't really know much about John Riley, except I went to his uh website there, and he advocates using crappy white bread with tomato sandwiches so that the bread doesn't get in the way, and I wholeheartedly agree. I think you should use crappy white bread for like really good BLTs.
+
+[39:13] You? Mm-hmm. I freaking love BLTs, man. BLT is so delicious. I think that Martin's white bread is good, yeah.
+
+[39:19] The potato bread? Mm-hmm. Yeah, I mean that's like kind of the c well, okay, okay. What what we mean is soft and gets out of the way fast. Yes.
+
+[39:25] And so Martin's is kind of the epitome of that style of soft and gets away, gets out of any whatever, okay. Uh okay, here it is. So um there is uh an interesting thing about this, and I read so I'm I read uh a bunch of things. Oh, by the way, uh a shout out to At Quantastic on the Twitter, uh AJ at Quantastic, who uh twitter tweeted tweeted me, tweeted to me. What do you say?
+
+[39:53] Oh yeah, she's stuzz. That's that's a curse, his family program. Uh a while back that uh he had some peaches that had what looked like some patrytis on them, the noble rot, and that they were amazingly delicious. I guess after some of the moisture had evaporated out after the patrol anyway, he's he's he really liked them. Uh and I found out that in fact botritis on peaches is an issue and they treat with uh fungicides.
+
+[40:15] I like that word. Fungicide. You like that word, Stuzz? No. Well, you hate, yeah, but anyway, fungic fungicide.
+
+[40:21] Anyway, so uh uh some articles you might want to look at about this whole thing is interactions among cooling fungicide and post-harvest ripening temperature on peaches, 1999, and the influence of cooling and temperature maintenance on the quality of California grown stone fruit, FG Mitchell, 1986. Uh so here's the deal. There's a whole series of things in peaches called chilling injuries. And what happens is peaches are typically, if you want to ripen a peach, you want a peach to ripen at roughly 20 degrees Celsius, right? And peaches will ripen after after they've picked.
+
+[40:53] I'm assuming that they don't ripen the same way uh when they're picked as they would if you let them sit on the tree. But the fact of the matter is if you let them completely ripen until they soften the tree, they can't be shipped at all. They're like one of the most fragile things that exist, right? So um so you can't you can't do it. So you can't commercially do that.
+
+[41:10] I mean, if you have your own tree, you can do it, but you can't commercially do it. So uh the tree, the fruits, once they're picked, they want to be ripened at at 20 degrees C. What's gonna happen is you're gonna get probably an increase in bricks, an increase in total dissolved solids, uh, and you get breakdown of the pectins because the fruit softens, and furthermore, there's probably a reduction in uh total acidity, right? And and and the creation of volatile flavor compounds for the ripening that you wouldn't get if you didn't let it ripen continue. Anyway, the problem is peaches are picked usually at like higher than 20 degrees Celsius because they're being picked out in the middle of an orchard in California when it's piss hot in the summertime, right?
+
+[41:45] Piss hot. And so what you need to do is chill they what commercially, what they do is they try to chill the peaches down very quickly when they get out of the orchard. Now, the and they need to do that because when they're warm and they're being handled and packed, they're much more uh apt to be bruised, destroyed, and the rot and fungus that come in out of the orchards and the different organisms, right? Uh work very rapidly at those high temperatures. So they try to get the temperatures down as quickly as possible, and then if they're going to employ a fungicide or something else, they put it on when they're cooling it.
+
+[42:17] Then after they've packed it and they're in a stable place where they've been packed, then prior to sale, they ripen them out at the higher temperatures, right? Let them go through their let them go through their business. Problem is that peaches, when they're held between at refrigeration temperature from or like four degrees Celsius to like ten degrees Celsius in that range. When they're held there uh for a long period of time, they have what's called a chill injury, such that they never ripen properly. And I tried to look through what causes this, and it's real it's relatively unclear to me what the actual cause is, but it monkey wrenches the ripening process so that it never happens even after the fruit's been warmed up.
+
+[42:55] Now, temporary chilling doesn't seem to have this uh effect. So that storage in the refrigerator for uh like a day or two, once you let it come back up, it might throw off the ripening, it might mess it up, but it's not going to prevent ripening from happening. Now, uh I alright, let me finish this and we'll take the collar. So the uh but the the the interestingly, if you take the peaches all the way down to zero, but don't let them freeze in that very narrow window, like zero to two degrees Celsius, they don't necessarily get those chill injuries. And also if you take your peaches and they do what's called intermittent warming, so they have them in cold storage, and every couple of days they bring the t ramp the temperature up to like uh you know to higher ripening temperature and then cool it back down again.
+
+[43:39] If you do that, you can also stop what's called uh chill injury. But it's a specific, it's a known thing with peaches, and they get what's called a woolly defect where there's almost no flavor, they don't soften right, and they taste kind of woolly and mealy. You like peaches that are woolly and mealy? Oh no, it's the worst, right? Is there anything worse?
+
+[43:55] This is why I always get nectarines instead of peaches, because the peaches we get here in New York, they suck. They suck. And when you touch it and it's kind of soft, and then you're like, this is gonna be good, but it's it never is. Where uh for some reason they do a much better job getting nectarines to us here in the market. All right, caller, you're on the air.
+
+[44:13] Hi, Dave, this is Steven from Indianapolis again. I called about two weeks ago for the neutrophenic question. Oh, yeah. So what was the upshot? What happened?
+
+[44:21] Uh so um it ends up that the hospital has extremely strict rules, and no matter what I give her, I have to microwave it beforehand anyways. So uh, which I think is kind of crap, but uh I mean that's the way it goes. I got the yogurt answer though. Oh, what was it? Um so so uh a pathogen, uh so a pathogen in or a bacteria in your gut is different than a bacteria in your blood.
+
+[44:43] And if uh since we have a line of defense in our blood, which is our uh neutrophils, uh that that uh that bacteria uh will be you know, will the the immune response will take care of it, which she can't do. So I mean uh gut bacteria is not necessarily okay to have in your blood. So if if it can get into the into your blood. So that's the reason I got uh I also had another doctor tell me that they would give their patients yogurt if they could, uh, if the hospital would allow it. So I mean it's it's still kind of uh it seems like a gray area, but but uh that's the that's an answer that I received.
+
+[45:15] So what I what I'm feeling from what I'm feeling from what you're saying is is that hospital policy is super draconian to make sure nothing happens, but the doctor says that's yeah. The only problem with this, I think as we discussed last time, is that it turns out that uh patient outcome is better if they like the food that they're eating. Yeah, definitely. My my mom, uh for instance, my well, my mom is a person that's in the hospital, and she she just won't like she won't eat the hospital food. It's it's crap.
+
+[45:42] So we uh we end up cooking her soups and stuff that are that hold up well with the microwaving and and she eats that uh eats that well. Right. And by the way you're what you're pointing out is something that I think uh cooks a lot of institutional cooks and even cooks in general and you've hit the nail on the head with this is that if you have a set of parameters that are unvarying, right? I have to cook the crap out of this. Then only choose foods that survive that well.
+
+[46:09] Don't try to make things that can't have the crap cooked out of them and still taste good. Like like for instance, like I don't know whether you guys can deal with salt. I don't know what the salt issues are with the diet, but like confid would be great. Okay, yeah, definitely 'cause you can eat the hell out of that and it's fine. Yeah, you can beat the price I can say that on there.
+
+[46:27] No, that's fine, no, it's that's good. But yeah, but you can cook the ever loving, yeah, you can cook you can I mean it's meant to be cooked that way. So people often make the mistake of trying to cook things that can't be um cooked given a certain set of parameters and doing it well and and then serving that. Why? Why?
+
+[46:44] There are plenty of things out there that taste good when they've ha when they've been uh cooked to death, you know? Right. Well and it it seems like a lot of the parameters that are laid out by the hospital are for the average uh so for the average family that you know they're they don't have uh like a a family member that's super into the science behind cooking. So like shellfish is one of the things that they can't have and I believe that that's because of uh what you discussed a while ago and terotoxins that could be present in in uh seafood that's not treated well. Right.
+
+[47:13] Uh or something like that. So so they they pretty much just uh assume that that uh that the patients aren't gonna prepare it as well as they should. Is what I'm assuming. And so yeah, you're right, they're they're very hypersensitive to that. Right, but I mean, but that's the thing.
+
+[47:26] So that's when you have to put on kind of an engineer's mindset. You know, I got plenty of engineers in my family, so it's easy for me to do. You put on the engineer's mindset, you're like, well, let's not think about, you know, we have a set of givens. What are the set of givens? Now, what's the best we can do within that set of givens?
+
+[47:43] You know, rather than wishing that you could make something that you can't make within your set of givens. You know what I'm saying? And I think it's real it's actually very good practice for cooking in general because um every at every moment in your life, I guess no matter what you're doing, but I think mainly about the kitchen, you always have a you know, a set of limitations that you have to deal with and your ability to do the best possible job with the limitations you have determine how good you are as a cook. You know what I mean? Definitely.
+
+[48:16] I I completely agree. Uh I know you don't have a lot of time, so do you mind if I ask you the question real quick? Sure. But I I came on the air to to ask you another question. Uh so so I I was curious about the transglutaminates and the uh and the noodles that Wiley Dufrain makes.
+
+[48:31] Uh you said that he he does like transg transglutaminates and gelatin noodles. Yep. Uh I noticed when I was looking through uh the types of transglutaminates to get, because I know you do like Tiva RM most of the time. Uh w which has the casein, I believe, right? Yep.
+
+[48:45] Okay. Um one of them has gelatin in it. And I was curious if it did not crosslink or it did not solidify because the concentration of gelatin was so low that they're not actually interacting that well. Well, there's two at least last time I checked, there were two different trans transglutaminase is meat glue, by the way, for those that don't know what we're talking about. It's what you know bonds proteins together covalently, actually.
+
+[49:09] There's two different and and the enzyme is transglutaminase, and typically there's a helper protein in it that uh that is used kind of to bridge the gaps between what would otherwise be two pieces of meat that on a molecular level are fairly far apart. Okay. So uh in the one that's most commonly used by chefs is called Activa RM, and it's transglutaminase mixed with casein, milk protein. There are two, or were at least last time I checked, two different transglutaminases that had gelatin as a component. There was GB, which stands for greatest bond, and that's been around for a long time.
+
+[49:42] And a lot of the reason that uh you know Nils and I never recommended using that one is because it it kind of s sets up tachy pretty quickly and it's hard to reposition. So and we didn't necessarily need that huge bond strength that comes from the GB. The because it does cross link. The other one that we used, uh, and so I don't know anyone that keeps GB around. The other one is called GS, and GS is one that has gelatin in it that also has phosphates in it that's designed to sit on the counter as a slurry because the enzyme doesn't work until it's been painted on the meat, because the phosphates in it keep it uh too alkaline for the enzymes to work properly.
+
+[50:20] So, yeah, they will crosslink, but what you want, I don't know what the specific gelatin characteristics are of the ones that are in G B and GS. Uh Wiley's recipe, he says you can use RM, but I'm almost a hundred percent sure that he uses Activa Ti, which is just activa and uh maltodextrin with no helper protein in it. And the reason why is uh we've had failure of his recipe when we use RM because you actually don't want the gelatin bonding to anything but itself. Okay? So if there's casein protein, if there's casein in there uh or other proteins that the stuff's bonding to when you're making these uh these kind of vegetable-based gel gelatin noodles, uh we ended up not getting the awesome gelatin cross-linking because a lot of the gelatin was cross-linking to other things.
+
+[51:08] At least that's our theory. So we always had much better results with that his gelatin recipe when you uh use TI. So what he would do is he would hydrate the gelat, he would make this puree, very low moisture content pureees. He would then hydrate r you know regular gelatin, I don't know what he used, like nox or equivalent, nox is fairly high bloom strength. Uh, and then uh make the slurry, let that cool down a little bit, add the TI to that, and then make mix the whole thing together, spread it and let it set.
+
+[51:37] And that's you know, really what he's looking for is the cross-linking of gelatin there. Am I answering the question or no? No, you you're completely answering the question. Uh I won more one more part to it. I'm sure you're running out of time.
+
+[51:48] But uh do has you ever done time-based studies of uh like have you ever done time-based uh uh translutaminase reactions with with uh gelatin to see like the relative rates of cross-linkage to see like if it the melting point just uh increases over time or or is that I'm sure it does because ultimate strength increases over time, so you get like 75% of your bond strength in the first four hours. Um however you get a lot more if you let it sit overnight. And so I'm pretty sure Wiley does his. Yeah, right. And it's the same with a lot of hydrocolloids, actually.
+
+[52:25] Gel strength changes uh and it's not the same, but in hydrocolloids as well, gel strength changes over time, which is why uh they you know they make the um the pimento strips uh in the center of olives are made from alginate, and uh they age those for a day because their gel strength changes dramatically, and the whether or not they're gonna snap changes dramatically uh after they've been aged for a day. So a lot of these polymerization reactions have the majority of the thing happens fairly quickly, but then there are continued changes uh for a long period of time afterwards. Okay, um and and just just uh one more question. Is there any way that like maybe next time or whatever you could talk about like good articles and stuff to talk about uh like food polymerization reactions and relative like what I'm curious about is hydration rates to see uh how the gel is affected by different hydration uh hydration, you know. On gelatin in particular?
+
+[53:19] Uh I'm I'm I I'm actually interested in hydrocolors in general. Yeah, I'll come up with some good references uh and some that are like partially, and then we'll we'll give them a shout-out uh or uh or I'll tweet them out uh during the week or something like that. We'll give them a shout-out next week. If you can remember to send in the question about it um to like the email, then it'll it'll help us not forget. Perfect, I'll do that.
+
+[53:39] Thanks a lot. Cool, thank you. Uh Jason Bazant writes in uh pronounces you would Van Zant. So I guess Bizant. Bizant pronounces you would Van Zant.
+
+[53:47] I like that. Now I'm thinking of the E Street band. Okay. Jason Bazant uh writes in about high notes and cooking potatoes. Uh I'm your biggest fan.
+
+[53:53] I think I can make a good case for this assertion. More later. For now, I've heard you talk about the high notes and base notes, etc. when talking about flavor and various preparations. I love this analogy as I'm a musician, but I'm yet to fully appreciate what this means when it comes to putting a dish together.
+
+[54:05] Are you able to outline the origins of this type of thinking? I imagine it's ultimately a matter of balancing across the whole spectrum, acid, bitter, sweet, sour, etc. It sounds like it's more applicable to beverages than say dishes, but I'm not sure. I'm a savory guy when it comes to cooking. Can you talk about this, please?
+
+[54:20] Uh and second, I'll just mention both things and then we'll go into them. This way they I have to answer them both, right? Uh my wife cubed a bunch of potatoes and cooked it in the microwave with water until tender and then let it completely cool, much to my chagrin prior to mashing. Her idea was to make mash for our 18-month-old son. Now I know how to make a mashed potato.
+
+[54:39] Face punchably, so I guess he's punching himself in the face as his wife is doing this. I noticed her mashing the cold potato with a fork into a total gloop, hoping for a good result. I pointed out to her some starch basics. Bad idea. But it also obviously it's a bad idea.
+
+[54:56] When someone is doing something horrible in the kitchen, like unless you are literally their boss, it's like really a bad idea to tell them what they're doing is horrifying. You know what I'm saying? Because you can't hide it. You can't hide it. The look on your face of horror cannot be hid.
+
+[55:09] And then they asked. The worst is when you buy the food and take it to somebody's house and ruin it. Oh you know, here's the worst, because you hate it, you know how to do it. And then they look at you and they can tell that you want to kill you don't want to kill your wife. You know what I'm saying?
+
+[55:22] They can tell that you're upset. You know what I mean? And then they ask you, what's wrong? And you can't lie and say nothing's wrong because you're looking at them and like everything that you feel as a person says that what they're doing is horribly destructive to the quality of the food. That otherwise was cared for quite well until it reached their hands and was destroyed, right?
+
+[55:41] But it turns out that when you do that to your spouse, bad things happen. I know this is why my wife won't cook with me ever. She says I'm an a-hole in the in the kitchen. That her words. Uh, anyway.
+
+[55:51] So I pointed out there some starch basics, and she threw up her hands and said, You fix it then, and promptly went to bed. All I wanted to do was throw it out. But then I thought, I'll ask Dave. Obviously, this glooped-out mash deserves to be thrown away, but can you think of any reasonable culinary application for such a ridiculous preparation? Alright, we'll go in reverse.
+
+[56:08] By the way, can I go a little bit late today, guys? No. He doesn't hear you. No, alright, I gotta write this up. Okay.
+
+[56:15] Unfortunately. Alright, okay. So the uh so we'll we'll go in reverse. So the potatoes as mashed potatoes are pretty much ruined, right? They're done.
+
+[56:24] But uh you can mix them into things like croquettes if you're if you're frying things out, or we were just talking about it. Martin's potato bread. Potato bread is a good use for old uh old mashed potatoes, right, Stas? Mm-hmm. Yeah, I wouldn't do gnocchi, and gnocchi, I want I would want it fresh.
+
+[56:38] Wouldn't you want a fresh yonkee? But potato bread you could probably get away with. But here's another interesting point that you might wanna think about. Nils Norrin, uh, you know, uh used worked with for years at the French culinary, who's a monster cook. He used to make uh a mashed potato, like a glue on purpose.
+
+[56:53] And it's part of this whole thing that McGee talks about, I talk about, Nils talks about. If you push something that is a defect so far in the defect direction, sometimes it comes around to being good again. So he would overcook potatoes, then add extra liquid to them, if you can imagine this, then blend them in a vita prep to shatter all the starch granules and turn it into kind of a pasty glue, and then flavor it. And the idea was to accentuate that uh potato puree with that kind of interesting, kind of gluey texture, not try to have it be mashed potatoes at all. And I gotta say it's pretty good.
+
+[57:26] Now, your starch is probably retrograded somewhat, especially if it's old, so it's not going to maybe work the same way, but you could try just pushing the glue all the way, reheat the hell out of it, add extra liquid to turn it into a glue, or use it in the uh use it, use it that other way. Now, as to the high notes, um I'm getting I'm getting the high sign. I'm gonna have uh listen. Listen, I'm gonna answer this uh first thing on the next uh on the next program. I'm also gonna answer Jacob's question about burr grinders uh and coffee.
+
+[57:56] I'm gonna answer David's question about muffin style mixing, and I'm gonna talk to Dandy about recreating recipes from the Applebee's appetizer uh menu. Anyway, next time on cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio.
+
+[58:32] You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by S. Wallace Edwards and Sons, a third generation Cure Masters producing the country's best dry cured and aged hams, bacon, and sausage. For more information, visit SurreyFarms.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit HeritageRadionetwork.org for thousands more.
+
+[0:30] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cookie Issues coming to you live from Alberta's Pizzeria in the back of. Yeah, and Bushwick, Brooklyn. Brooklyn! How are you doing, Stas?
+
+[0:41] Join as usual with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. Got a full crew today. We got uh Pedro here is new, sh uh filming the program today. We is Jack still over there or is he did he high tail it out? Nope, I'm here.
+
+[0:51] Hi, Jack, Joe, saw Eddie in the back of full uh full crew, right? Full crew. Full crew. Calling your questions to 7184972128. That's 718497-2128.
+
+[1:01] Uh cooking questions, non-cooking questions, whatever. Right, Sus? You have a lot of questions. Yeah, I do. But before I do that, we have a theory in uh from at uh Leapers500 on Twitter.
+
+[1:14] A theory about uh Nastash's hate of everything. Wow. Yeah, right? And and by the way, uh I just have to warn you, uh, Leapers. I can't believe he's the 500th Leaper.
+
+[1:26] Is that possible? Anyway. I just have to warn you that you are about to start uh some sort of evil feud with Nastasha, not necessarily something you want to do, but the theory is she hates everything because secretly she wants the wonder of her universal hatred to keep people asking her what she likes. Nah. I think he's giving that way too much thought.
+
+[1:49] That's weird. Wow. Wow. Alright. So Nastasia hated that.
+
+[1:55] Alright, very good, very good. Alright. Uh I'm on uh last week's questions first, thanks. Well, we've got a special greeting too. We should probably do that.
+
+[2:04] Oh, that's right. That's right. Hold on. We well, you want let's do that right after the comment. You want to do it at the top?
+
+[2:09] Yeah. Alright, hold on a second. We don't know we don't know uh what uh which one though, right? No, we don't. All right.
+
+[2:17] A very special happy birthday to John Ripper out in Seattle. Happy birthday, brother. Uh thanks for listening to the show and contributing so many uh interesting questions, right? Yeah, we got a chance to meet him and his wife when they came up. You were in Senegal, but they were lovely and brought us all some nice little gifts.
+
+[2:38] I like gifts. Gifts are good. I'd say they're uh our our favorite listeners. Yeah, really? Uh for me.
+
+[2:44] Speak for myself here. Oh, yeah, yeah. You know, it's like I try try not to play favorites with our loyal loyal listeners. Uh okay, we have some questions from last week are gonna hit. Uh Jacob wrote in about burr grinders.
+
+[2:55] Hey, hope you're still the man to forward this on to. Uh the rest of the crew. I don't know who you've mailed it to. Was that Jack? Maybe.
+
+[3:01] Uh I'm looking for a good burr grinder at home, but we're talking about coffee people. Uh I make mostly pour over. Pour over is a horrible they need to think like I guess drip's also a bad word, but pour over sounds like comb over, doesn't it, Stuz? Like pour over coffee, comb over coffee. Yeah, anyway.
+
+[3:16] Uh but I make main mainly pour over and espresso. I was looking at the Breville BCG 800 XL Smart Grinder. What is your take? I'm hoping to find something that makes effing good coffee. Uh it's all bleeped out because he says, I know you're a family uh trying to make this a family show from Jacob.
+
+[3:33] Okay. Okay, so look, just so you guys know my take on this. Uh so everyone, not everyone, a lot of people they spend a lot of money on their espresso machine, right? I mean, it's just something people do. They spend a lot of money on their espresso machine.
+
+[3:44] And they always then don't well, not always, often don't spend enough money on the grinder. And it turns out that the grinder, in terms of the quality of your coffee, is almost an equal partner to your espresso machine. So if you don't get an espresso machine, I mean a grinder rather that's up to snuff for your espresso machine, then hey, what's the point? You know what I'm saying? Now, uh back when I bought my grinder, which was many, many, many, many, many moons ago, uh, I I got the Rancillo Rocky, which at the time was the best um option for you know semi-serious home folks.
+
+[4:23] Cost $350, and my wife made something akin to Nastasha's vegan face when she found out that I had purchased it. Because it seemed like a lot at the time. Um that does a good job. It's a flat grinder, right? It's it's okay.
+
+[4:37] And now, twelve years later, uh, I think twelve, maybe a couple more years later that I've had it, you know, it needs new set of burrs now, probably, uh, or needs sharpening. Uh the but a couple years after I got mine, everyone said, you know what, the one to get is the Mazer Mini, right? Now the Mazer Mini is functionally an es uh professional espresso grinder. You could find it, you know, if you it's small for an professional setup, but it functions in the same fashion as a full-size professional espresso grinder. It's 575 bucks.
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+[5:09] All right. Now it's really freaking expensive. It's 575 bucks. But the great thing about the Mazer Mini for Espresso is uh that it's got a very fine grind adjustment. It's got nice conical burrs that are fairly large, aren't going to warm up your coffee, fairly repeatable, and that is kind of the the standard by which all home possible uh grinders for espresso are rated.
+
+[5:29] Now, I'm not such a big I I don't really think too much about uh grind quality for uh pour over, but in essence, the problem you're gonna have is that you're gonna be doing a lot of adjusting between pour over and uh and not pour over. I mean, I leave mine tuned close to what I want for espresso and my Rocky, and then I never touch it. And then well, it's not true. I like whenever I'm doing a shot, I'll adjust it up or down based on how the shots are pouring today, which is I believe a lot, not just to do with the beans, but also the relative humidity anyway. Uh but but you know, it kind of wants to stay close to being dialed in.
+
+[6:08] It I don't like to move it around a lot. Now, you might want to consider getting an inexpensive grinder for your pour over and a really expensive one, or if you can afford it, a more expensive one for your um for your espresso. I've also heard good things about the La San Marco uh lower end professional one. I had one that was out of whack that I picked up used. I never got it to work right, so I don't want to really want to talk about it because I don't really want to talk about it.
+
+[6:32] Now, as to the one you're asking me about, the uh Breville BCG 800XL smart grinder, um I've never used it uh ever. Uh I went and looked at it. It's a lot cheaper than the Rocky, which is the one that I have, or it's a 150 bucks cheaper. It's 199 bucks, apparently. Uh I looked at a coffee geek, which, although they haven't had a lot of uh recent postings as far as I can tell, was the website that I used to go to all the time when I was in the coffee um purchasing and coffee thinking mode, more of a coffee thinking and purchasing mode.
+
+[7:03] And their gripe about it is that it's well, they say it's a good grinder, but they say that the uh the adjustment on it for the grind adjustment is not fine enough to really perfectly dial in an espresso shot. That's the gripe. And I heard that gripe from a couple of people who seemed relatively knowledgeable about what was going on. Not that it's a bad quality grinder, but just that the grind adjustment wasn't fine enough. And I don't know if that's something that can be hacked or tweaked.
+
+[7:27] But if it so, in other words, consistent, which is important, but not adjustable enough. So that's that's uh that's what it is. That what do you think? Good job. Enough?
+
+[7:37] Yeah, okay. Okay, I never tell whether I can whether I've said enough or too little or too much. Okay. David writes in about the muffin style. I like that.
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+[7:44] That should be a new dance. You're gonna make that dance up, Sus? Muffin style? No? No.
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+[7:48] Ragamuffin, you're not gonna do some sort of muffin dance? No? All right. Uh hey cooking issues. In the muffin method, sugar is treated as a wet ingredient.
+
+[7:56] I understand that this is possible because the sugar dissolves are readily in water. I want you people to think about muffins, and I'm gonna take this collar. Collar, you're on the air. Hi. Um, my name is Latima.
+
+[8:11] I was just I recently started eating only egg whites because I heard it was healthier. Is that true? I don't believe so. Who told you that? I've read it.
+
+[8:22] That there is more cholesterol and fat in the yolk. That's true. More protein in the white. That's true. But do you have high cholesterol?
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+[8:32] I don't think so, no. Uh but I don't want to have high cholesterol either. Yeah, well, you know, you so you look, you make you you make your own cholesterol. It here's the egg yolks are one of nature's miracles. They're amazing.
+
+[8:48] Like they taste delicious. I think you have to agree that when you eat only the egg white, that it does not taste anywhere near as delicious as when the egg yolk is in it. And I also don't think that the products that you make with it are going to be as satisfying, meaning you're probably going to have to eat more of it. Now I can see you know if you have um if you need for some reason just a whole boatload of uh protein for some reason that I can't understand. Then yeah I guess you could go with egg whites but the fact of the matter is there's not that many calories in a whole egg.
+
+[9:23] So it depends on how much I mean and there is there is quite a bit of uh you know fats, cholesterol, phospholipids, things like that. But you know a lot of that I I think is is good stuff. I mean it's supposed to be nourishing. It grows a chicken. You know so I think that you're much better off if you're really worried about the caloric intake just eating slightly less and enjoying the taste of real whole eggs in an omelet or scrambled format or any anything like that.
+
+[9:48] I mean there's plenty of places where I use egg whites like when I make angel cakes which I think are delicious although Staz disagrees that me she doesn't like aged food cake. But um you see but what what do you disagree with me or no? I think egg yolks are are really good but um the protein in egg is like super natural protein or something and like the protein that you get in meat or fish or whatever else isn't as good the quality of the protein isn't as good as the protein in the egg. Right. I mean I have to I have it's been a long time since I've looked up theoretical um completeness of proteins across the board but I mean egg egg is you know nature's miracle kind of f food.
+
+[10:32] You could grow a whole chicken from it. I'm I'm not a firm believer in I mean, like I say, there are proteins that are deficient. So for instance, you know, if you eat only uh, you know, certain grains, the proteins in them can be deficient and they need to be made up in other ways because they don't contain um the right balance of amino acids. But I don't know that the quality of protein from an egg is going to be fundamentally different in terms of what your body does with it from one in meat. It is a you know a a very uh high source of protein.
+
+[11:01] But like I said, most of us have most of us get mu much more protein than we need in this country, right? So you don't you have you have no need for an extremely concentrated protein source unless you're a bodybuilder, which I don't know, maybe you're a bodybuilder. Uh but you know the the my firm belief is that you should uh eat the f eat foods in the way that make them taste good, that that's gonna make you sated faster. You're not gonna necessarily eat as much or or be driven to eat as much if you just focus on trying to make products that you know that taste good. An egg is a nutritional marvel, you know, I uh uh with yolk or or not.
+
+[11:43] I mean, think about from a cooking standpoint, the yolks are a miracle because they have all sorts of emulsification properties aside from the fact that they're delicious. Um I would I would say that inlet that unless you have a specific need to get rid of uh the egg yolks, that you should keep on using them because they're delicious. So what am I losing by not eating the yolk? In in terms of taste? And in terms of nutritional value.
+
+[12:14] I'd have to look it up. I mean, there's I'd have to look up what's what's in it. Like what uh I'm sure that there's some sort of uh like awesome list of you know vitamins and minerals and whatnot that are in the yolk. I I don't I don't normally keep that stuff uh like rolling in the front of my head because I'm much more concerned with the yolk as a functional unit in cooking. Do you know what I mean?
+
+[12:29] Yeah. But in other words, my my f my feeling is that you know uh the chicken doesn't grow from the white alone. The chicken grows from the egg yolk and egg white. I mean the egg white is also a miracle because it's got like interesting an antibacterial properties. It's one of the only um it's one of the only things that we eat that uh comes naturally alkaline, you know, basic in nature as opposed to acidic, because uh so it's got me it's got some really interesting properties.
+
+[13:05] Um but you know, I would never uh you know, I would never break them I would never eat an egg white only omelet, for instance. Ever understood. Thank you so much. I appreciate it. Thank you.
+
+[13:19] Um all right. So what were we talking about? We were talking about uh Muffins. Muffins. Muffins.
+
+[13:25] In the muffin method, sugar is treated as a wet ingredient. I understand that this is possible because the sugar dissolves readily in water, but what's the actual benefit of doing that? Would there be any difference in the final product if I treated my sugar as a dry ingredient instead of a wet ingredient? Thanks from David. That's interesting.
+
+[13:42] I mean, um I I d I don't I don't know. I mean it's one of the reasons like as you say to put it in there is that it dissolves uh readily, whereas all of the things that are in the dry ingredient list aren't really soluble in the liquid. But I don't really know if there would be any difference in the final product if you do one way or the other. I doubt that you would hinder the hydration of um of your product too much. Perhaps if you used uh perhaps the sugar wouldn't dissolve as readily if there was other things competing and swelling with water, and so you actually want the sugar dissolved more.
+
+[14:21] But I think it might be six of one, half a dozen of the other. I I you know, I've never I've never really thought about it. They I would try it. I would make two batches of muffins and see whether they come out any differently. I mean, the the that method doesn't uh use any, for instance, whipping power of granulated sugar.
+
+[14:40] It's not like creaming or any of these other things where you're using the power of the sugar uh as an actual aerating agent. So I don't really think it would make that much of a difference. But I could be wrong. Maybe the sugar won't dissolve if you do it that way because it doesn't have enough setting time for it to dissolve out, and your flour won't hydrate the same way, and the whole thing will be a big massive crud with little sugar specks in it, maybe. I don't know.
+
+[15:02] What do you think, Stuzz? You ever you ever messed with uh the way you don't make muffins, do you? No. You're a muffin hater? You like muffins.
+
+[15:08] No, I just don't bake. Don't have time to bake. Don't have time to bake. Your whole life you've never had time to bake? I used to.
+
+[15:13] All right, so five years ago. Hey, it's my anniversary with you. Really? Okay. Yeah.
+
+[15:19] Well, what's that little secret? I you don't care. I didn't say that. Yeah, you did. No, you didn't.
+
+[15:23] You said you don't care. I saw you, so I listened to it. Four years. Oh, four years? All right.
+
+[15:28] So just so you know, uh, she says that working with a cooking guy has stopped her from having the time to bake. Right? Is that what you're fundamentally saying? Who is the one at work who will never step into the kitchen and actually do cooking work with us? Whenever I cook anything for lunch, you're like, what is that?
+
+[15:48] Uh she's talking about the last year where she brings in leftovers and like heats it up. I'm talking about like all the years at the French culinary where we're like, oh my god, we have all this stuff to do in the kitchen. She's like, Nope. Nope. And now she's saying that she doesn't have time to cook now that she was.
+
+[16:02] At home. Oh, I see. I see. All right. Dandy calls in from St.
+
+[16:07] Louis regarding Applebee's. Or as he puts it, crapplebees. You like that? Oh, that's what I used to call it. Yeah?
+
+[16:13] Yeah. I think a lot of people used to get it. I mean, it's kind of a sad, it's kind of like, I won't get into it, but like, can you believe that they named it chain restaurant Fudruckers? I mean, it's kind of a strange one. Anyway.
+
+[16:23] Uh, Dave Hammer et al. I've been asked to recreate an appetizer sampler platter. That's okay that's a tongue twister. Appetizer sampler platter based on the menu at Applebee's. The party hosts always think the food sounds good, but when it stinks, as it always does, they say they've been crapple bead.
+
+[16:38] I listen, this is not my opinions, by the way. This is Dan D from St. Louis, Missouri, talking here. Not not my opinion. I have not ever been to an Applebee's, so I can't.
+
+[16:46] Never? Never. Wow. Yeah. Uh after looking at the menu, uh, and they have propose they give a link to it, you can just go to Applebee's.com if you're interested in looking at their appetizer menu.
+
+[16:56] I decided to make Wontan tacos with Adobo style chicken. Uh presumably not like Filipino adoba, whatever. Uh, fried fish, uh, uh fried fresh mozzarella, and pretzels with beer cheese dip. That would be good. Pretzels with beer cheese dip.
+
+[17:12] I mean, I don't really do you like soft pretzels, Stas? Yeah? I like soft pretzels. I I do. Although I'm uh more of a hard pretzel aficionado, but I do like a good soft pretzel.
+
+[17:22] Uh I bought some sodium citrate from modernistpantry.com and used this recipe, HTTP W W D W Chow.com recipes, blah blah blah, perfectly melting cheese. Uh it's on chow. Uh setting aside the combination of cups, grams, and ounces in the recipe. It was far too thick for a portable cheese sauce. Should I just decrease the amount of cheese slash increase the liquid or the amount of sodium citrate?
+
+[17:44] Also, any suggestions for frying fresh fresh mozzarella? My thought was to do a standard double dip kind of fry and test the mozzarella at room temperature straight out of the fridge, but I wonder if I'm overlooking something. Love the show and I hate wraps as well, Dan D. Well, uh much as I don't know if I can co-sign on uh the um on the recreation of the Applebee's menu. The what what I would say on the sodium citrate on the cheese thing is is you have to assess the sodium citrate is going to increase the meltability and the flowability and the and the granularity of it.
+
+[18:18] So it's it's a melting salt that's gonna allow the casein to become smooth. So if your product is smooth, right, but just too thick, then I would add a liquid. If it's smooth as silk, but just too uh but but um sorry. If it's smooth as silk but too thick, add liquid. If it's clumpy or has some problem with uh texture other than actual viscosity, then you're having a problem with your uh emulsifying salt.
+
+[18:47] That makes sense, S. Yeah. Uh now on the mozzarella, whenever I make mozzarella, I do uh flour coat first in case to pick up any extra moisture, double dip, and then I fry it extremely cold so that I get a crust forming before the cheese starts melting out. Uh I have never tried any sort of much higher tech uh thing like dusting it in methyl cell or anything like that. Uh but you know, you lose what?
+
+[19:13] Like one in ten mozzarella steaks, one in fifteen mozzarella steaks when you fry them out. Another interesting thing you can fry is they make a uh, if you want to go a little off menu, there is um in South America, well, in in in in what is it, Middle East, I guess, they make something called Halumi, which is a uh um a grillable cheese, halumi good cheese, is I think it says on the package. And in uh in Latin America, they make something called queso para frier that you can fry. And that stuff, you can literally deep fry that sucker without a coating on it. It doesn't melt out, and it's delicious, except when it cools down, it gets squeaky like you're chewing on styrofoam.
+
+[19:49] So you gotta eat that sucker hot out of the fryer or hot off the grill. But I highly recommend trying queso uh queso pata fruit or halloumi. Uh it's really good with a little oil drizzled over the top, salt, pepper, grilled or fried. But back on your mozzarella, just coat that sucker like a demon, have it be cold, fry it till it's crisp, uh, and then if you need to, uh, you know, you can throw it in an oven to melt out the inside a little more. The problem with most frying setups is that that they batter the mozzarella around.
+
+[20:17] You want to be really gentle with it and not do a lot of manipulation because if you break the crust at any point, you're gonna get a leaker, and then you're toasted, right stuff? I hate don't you hate leaking mozzarella steaks? Do you like mozzarella sticks? Marinara sauce? Do you like fried uh kamari?
+
+[20:33] What was the way that idiot pronounced calamari that time? You don't want to anyway. Uh yeah, that's uh anyway, there you go. Connor Kerrigan writes in cooking issues. Have you ever made stock from freeze-dried protein?
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+[20:44] A la uh David Chang's mind of a chef. Can I easily find freeze-dried products? Yes, you can find freeze-dried products, but no, I have never made stock from freeze-dried stuff. Uh, I looked a little bit into it. I haven't spoken to Dave about this personally.
+
+[20:57] Uh I mean, I would I don't know the advantage of a freeze-dried stock uh product, except for the relative speed of extraction. In other words, I don't know what would go on in the freeze drying of it that would actually increase the uh ultimate total flavor extraction you could get from it. So I need to talk to him and see see what it is. But no, I've never tried. That was an easy one to answer, right?
+
+[21:14] Answer's no. Boom. Okay. Uh wait, shall we take what time is it? You want to take a break?
+
+[21:22] Let's go to our first commercial break, cooking issues. Today's program has been brought to you by S. Wallace Edwards and Sons. Edward's Suriano hams are aged to perfection for no less than 400 days, and hickory smoked to achieve a deep mahogany color. The Edwards name is well known for its world-class aged and cured meats.
+
+[22:36] Their exclusive curing and aging recipe produces a unique flavor profile that enhances the quality characteristics of Berkshire pork. Optimum amounts of pure white fat marbling contribute to a flavor that's a delicate, perfect balance between sweet and salty. For more information, visit www.surrefarms.com. And welcome back to cooking Issues. We have a caller.
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+[22:59] Caller, you're on the air. Hey Dave, how you doing? All right. This is uh Christian from Michigan. Got a uh question for you.
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+[23:07] Two well, actually two questions, seemingly unrelated. Um have you ever used the aero press as a means of being uh clarifier? So uh how you use the um cheesecloth. Uh could you use an aeropress to do the clarification? Okay, so uh what we're talking about, AeroPress is the uh relatively inexpensive coffee maker that uses a moderate amount of pressure.
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+[23:30] It looks like a giant modified syringe. Um accurate so far. And so when you're saying when you're saying clarification, I generally don't do uh I don't clarify via filtration. I use cheesecloth for only for um uh holding back solids in something let's say like an agar raft or in a gelatin raft. And most of that when you're doing it, you're not it's not the the pressure that's holding you back, it's the uh ultimate kind of leak rate you can get out of the raft, and when you increase the pressure too much, you actually can start forcing product through your filter medium.
+
+[24:11] What I actually use in those situations to increase the pressure just the right amount without causing uh problems, squeeze through or clogging, is I use a salad spinner. So I'll put stuff in like a in like a super bag or in like like a fine uh like uh like a linen napkin, and I'll tie the neck off like a sack, throw it in a salad spinner, and just spin it a bunch. And that and that works. Oh, that's pretty awesome. And then I'll free up the the mesh by picking it up and just rubbing gently the cloth together against itself to free the pores out and then spinning it again.
+
+[24:42] And you very rarely get any agar bleed through when you do that. Oh, okay. That's uh that's a much easier idea. I don't drink coffee, so I don't have an aeropress. Ah, there you go.
+
+[24:52] Well, save your save yourself the purchase. Although they do work well. Uh I I used to bring all sorts of complicated stuff, but now when I travel, I usually bring the aeropress with me just because it's easy to carry. Cool. Um so the second question is have you ever uh done a DIY project for making a uh like a deep freeze unit?
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+[25:11] Like how deep freeze. Like so taking like a commercial blower unit and making your own kind of uh I'm just looking to do like a rapid freeze unit without spending like four grand on a on a true commercial uh uh freezer unit to get meat down to temperature quickly. I hear my thoughts uh on that. So you're talking about prepared meats or pre or pre pre cooking or post-cooking? Uh pre-cooking.
+
+[25:40] In bags? So yep. Okay. I would definitely do this. Well uh uh ans to answer your question first.
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+[25:47] Uh I have not I've often thought about installing just like fan units inside my normal freezer to try and increase the rate of freezing a little bit because the air is stagnant in there and the freeze rates are abysmal. The problem is as opposed to a commercial blast freezer, I mean you wouldn't want a fan going in there all the time because it's gonna accelerate the drying effects that you're gonna have in there, right? But um commercial blast freezer not only has like a large amount of air circulation, large amount, but it also has a uh a huge cooling uh, you know, a huge cooling output to to match it. So, you know, your freezer is not pr is not freezing at its fastest possible rate because it doesn't have air circulation or very much air circulation, but there is a still a maximum rate at which your freezer can freeze because of the actual amount of cooling power that's being applied to the freezing box. And so that's the part that's kind of hard to get around, is the fact that it's only ever going to put a certain number of uh watts of cooling per hour into your product.
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+[26:51] You know what I'm saying? Or pull out of it. What I would do is put your product in zippies, ice and salt is very fast and can freeze down to you know, minus, I forget what it is off the top of my head, but something like minus 17 or something like that. You know, it can freeze ice cream rock solid. And so you can do a very rapid uh freezing in a concentrated salt water brine, and then and you could possibly even store that brine in your freezer.
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+[27:24] Like if you had a freezer you were going to dedicate to this, you could possibly store a saturated salt brine in the in the freezer, tune the freezer so it just wants to stay where it is, and then you're storing a boatload of energy in the partially crystallized ice and then the salt water brine, and that sucker would freeze your stuff very, very quickly. Yeah, so then that so then that salt water brine would bring down the ambient temperature in the freezer compartment as well, then too. Well, so what you would do is is you would use the you would you would use the freezer over time to to slowly add the energy, right, to make your to make your brine uh and then it would not fully freeze until it got well you uh you'd have to do some calculations on the tectic freezing point to get it to work just right. But the what you really want to do is store a bunch of ice at a temperature below freezing, have the freezer slowly input that energy over time such that when you throw your meat in bags into the brine, it can very rapidly uh cool it, right? And then you have the rest of the time to keep storing that energy again.
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+[28:29] Do you know what I'm saying? Does that make sense? Yeah, that's pretty cool. Sweet. Well, thanks for your help as usual.
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+[28:35] All right, well, good luck and uh let us know what happens. Sounds good, have a good one. All right, cool. Uh all right. Uh Colin writes in about popsicles in Britain.
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+[28:44] He says the Brits haven't heard from Colin in a while. Uh the Brits invented a curious concoction called the Jelly Babies Wobbly Lolly. Another tongue twister. Jelly jelly babies wobbly lolly. And by the way, he adds it's a popsicle or ice lolly.
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+[28:59] Uh they call them ice lollies, I guess, in in in UK. That's an absurd word. Yeah. Ice lolly. Would you ever say ice lolly, Pedro?
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+[29:07] I'd say ice lolly. Ice lolly? Maybe in reference like uh music video or something. Music oh, yeah. Well, there you go.
+
+[29:14] Uh it's an ice lolly that gets floppy when it melts thanks to guar and xanthan. Although uh I have to say in advance, reading the rest of this, I don't think it's well, we'll talk about it. You can look at it uh on this YouTube thing, which is going to be incomprehensible to you, but if it uh we'll we'll we'll get it out there on the on the web somehow. Uh you can imagine that there are many more, and what if you look at it, it's a little kid with uh uh like what amounts to some sort of fugical thing that wobbles around like uh like uh what are those things called that you make out of jello, the knox blocks, they call them jigglers, right? So it's kind of like a mix between a fudgecle and a jiggler, and he's sitting there wobbling it back and forth.
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+[29:49] But Colin, of course, points out what is probably obvious to you that you. You can imagine there are many more semi-obscene videos featuring young women eating these pops. Uh I will leave it at that. Here are the ingredients for lime flavor in honor of the limeys that created them. Water, sugar, fruit juice concentrate, 25%, straw uh strawberry and lime.
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+[30:10] Stabilizers, Xanthan gum, guar gum, hydrolyzed pea protein and salt, natural flavoring, acidity regulator, citric acid, and color, spinach extract. Spinach extract, chlorous chlorophyll. Stas put the vegan face on for that one. Does the hydrolyzed protein play a role in the wobble? I've seen it used as a protein supplement or to boost flavor via glutamic acid, but does it have a texture modifying properties as well?
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+[30:33] If you were to take a stab at a recipe to recreate these popsicles, what gum concentrations would you start with? Finally, uh have you made any other curiously textured frozen treats besides your world famous potato mox selept on derma? May the wobble be with you, Colin. First of all, uh yeah, the other one I've done also is sell-up ripoff, is a mixture of guar and uh gel an, low acyl gel an that sucker also has a snap to it. I really like, and that one you can light on fire, which is awesome, and it doesn't melt because you make a fluid gel from the uh gel-an, and so it doesn't melt down.
+
+[31:06] And that tons of chefs have made uh gel-an fluid gel ice creams. It's like, you know, meh, meh, I'm gonna make a fluid gel ice cream, man, meh, it's like a let it on fire, meh. But when you add the guar, that's when you get the weird textural properties, guar and gel-an, which I I still have only studied in frozen form. I don't really know why it works. We did it by accident, it happens.
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+[31:24] Anyway, what's going on here is it's not actually the Xanthan guar that's causing that. Xanthan LBG, which is a close relative of guar, will form a weird uh gel. But uh, as far as I know, Xanthan guar does not have that same synergism. What you're looking at here uh is actually, I believe, a synergism between guar gum and the hydrolyzed pea protein. Hydrolyzed pea protein is a pea pro is a protein that's used because it has relatively neutral flavor, it's relatively inexpensive, and can be subbed in for things that might otherwise have like kind of a nasty flavor or people might not want for like soy protein or other protein isolates, or like milk protein or dairy protein isolates.
+
+[32:04] So uh turns out I looked up on the interwebs, and uh there is a uh uh someone named Tamara uh Ranadhira had in uh year 2000 her master's thesis in uh Manitoba was enhanced gelation of field pea proteins through formation of multi-component systems using various polysaccharides, and guess which one had the most wobbly it's pea protein and ding ding ding guar. So it's the guar and the pea protein together that are doing what we need to do in this situation. I don't the xanthan's probably just there um I guess to add some more body. I don't know whether it's there from a stabilizing standpoint because I couldn't find really fast what the uh freeze thaw uh characteristics were of this. But and also the one thing I don't know is how how melt in your mouth these systems are.
+
+[32:53] But uh what you're looking at there is a pea protein guar thing, which I believe has to be heated for it to work before it's frozen, but I I don't know because I couldn't find out. But they these protein these pops, I'm surprised uh they weren't advertised as protein pops because most of the pea protein things that I've looked at were in the high range, like 10% or a little more protein. Uh so anyway, if anyone else has any information on these pea protein popsicles, pea protein popsicles. We have alliteration all day today. You know what I'm saying?
+
+[33:22] Uh give us a holler. Okay. Uh Patrick Chicone writes in on hey, you're a Italian pronounce that Chicone, right? Mm-hmm. Okay.
+
+[33:29] Hey, look, I got something right. Uh, on uh muscles in mollusks. Dear cooking issues gangs. Thank you for your answer about preserving bluefish last week. I'll report back the results.
+
+[33:39] It got me to rereading the fish chapter in Harold McGee. Always a good idea, by the way, to reread any chapter in one of Harold McGee's books. I'm gonna see him soon. We're doing the Harvard lecture together. And uh a little bit of secret, it's not a secret.
+
+[33:51] You know, I think all of you know uh who have been following the Mofad and the Puffing Gun that we like the puffing gun. Well, we at Booker and Dax Equipment Corporation have purchased our own mini puffing gun so that we can do uh we can now do commercial puffing experiments. Although the Chinese one complete, you know, it's whatever, it just comes completely unsafe. There are no, when I say unsafe, there are no safeties in it. So like our puffing gun, even though it was designed in the museum's puffing gun, even though it was designed in the 40s, 39 actually, and made, you know, in the 50s, still has like all kinds of safety valves on it so that you don't die.
+
+[34:27] This sucker comes and it comes at stops. What'd that box look like? Terrible. It was like all beaten to hell, right? Like the stuff falling out, literally stuff falling out of it, like all crazy.
+
+[34:37] And they just expect you to like want this thing together and uh put it up to 180 PSI and then hit it with a big old stick with no protections at all and no safety. So we haven't fired it yet because we're busy constructing big massive safety cages and like blow-off valves and stuff like that. I don't even know why I was thinking that. Oh, because I'm hoping to take that to Harvard so that McGee and I can fire that for the Harvard class at the beginning of uh uh the school year. Anyway, we'll let you know.
+
+[35:01] Okay. Um, that was just because he said McGee. See what happens? See what kind of tangents I go on? Uh I noticed that in the shellfish section, McGee says it's possible to cook the catch muscles of shellfish, i.e., those knobby muscles left on the shell of a clam or oyster, and not typically eaten since they are so tough.
+
+[35:18] This is on page 224 of the 2004 edition in the subsession Tender Quick Tough Catch. So uh I could not I'll I'll tell you what it says there, also paraphrasing because I don't have it in front of me. I could not find any references to cooking the catch muscles anywhere else besides McGee. I was wondering if cooking via prolonged low temperature method might transform them into something delicious. I know you always warn against fish turning into mush with this message method, but it's uh but this muscle seems unlike anything else in the fish world, at least in terms of toughness.
+
+[35:46] I'm always disappointed when I throw away what looks like a tiny scallop attached to the shell, and I'm now imagining this muscle transformed into something with real flavor and texture, a scallop with the flavor of a clam, for example. Also, congrats to the Mofad puffer launch. I'm sorry I missed the gun. I don't know if the museum is looking for a brick and mortar space anytime soon, but I have some ideas, so we should uh have Peter contact him. Anyway.
+
+[36:07] So, I reread it, uh, and in fact, it's quite interesting. Um, whenever you take, let's say, uh muscle or anything apart, there's always that little tough part attached to the shell. You know what we're talking about? Or when you shuck a clam, it's always that right. And so the adductor muscle, which is the main muscle in bivalves, i.e., two valves, i.e., two shells.
+
+[36:27] Um, the main muscle, the adductor, is broken up into a couple of different types. One is meant for quick closing, right? And that's the one that we normally eat. And scallops are really good at that because they flap their shells open and shoot themselves across the bottom of the ocean. So they have big, fast uh, you know, adductor muscles.
+
+[36:46] And then a portion of the adductor muscle is designed to do what's called catch. And what that is, is like when you walk up to a clam and you're like, oh yo, clam, and you try to open it, and it goes and closes, and then you can't pry that sucker open, and even though it's been sitting there for like hours or days, you can't pry it open. That is because of the specialized muscles that are called catch muscles. And they're extremely interesting and they're tough. And so McGee does in fact say that you can uh uh through long and slow cooking tenderize it.
+
+[37:17] And I haven't tested this and I couldn't find a lot of reference to it over the web, but it's worth trying. But I did do some more research on that. And it turns out that there's a lot of scientific study on catch muscles in uh in bivalves, mollusks, and other arthropods, because um they they they are able to maintain their rigidity, their contraction, even though they don't use a lot of energy for a long, long time. And so it turns out that there is uh a giant protein. So we have giant proteins in our muscles, they're called Titan, but with an I, not T I T A N T I T I N Titan, that is forms kind of a part of the elasticity of our muscle, and it's the actually the largest protein known.
+
+[38:00] And there's a there's a related protein in uh molluscs called um called twitching, believe it or not, and that protein, the state of that protein allows the muscle to lock shut without uh expending any extra energy over very, very long periods of time. And it's unique, kind of it's from invertebrate muscles, and it was just figured out in 1997. In fact, if you go on Wikipedia and you look up myosin, it still's it still says that uh that these muscles have their catch response based on um on paramyosin, which is an invertebrate-only myosin uh type, which is not true, it's just twitching stuff. I the article you might want to read, and I don't know if I have a link to it on my page to tell you uh on my uh paper here to tell you about, but go Google it, and because here's what's interesting. I can't figure out any references to how to disable that just by cooking, because it's not a standard kind of collagen breakdown problem.
+
+[38:57] But I gotta look at it. So it's very interesting, and when I see McGee, I'm gonna ask him more about it. Uh and sorry I didn't have a full answer, right? Anyway, so I was like, I don't really care. I don't care.
+
+[39:07] Uh Alex writes in oh, by the way, I have a couple of questions on induction. So I'm gonna I'm gonna combine them. All right. C wrote in about induction and Alex wrote in about induction. Um I'll do I'll do C's first.
+
+[39:21] Uh hey Dave, Nastasha, Jack, and Joe. Great show. After I discovered modernist cuisine at home, I found your show have been blasting through the archives. Been a home brewer for about five years, and chemistry of beer got me very interested in food. I converted my brew system, DIY style, to all electric a couple years ago and have not looked back.
+
+[39:37] I, you know, I stopped brewing eight years ago. Last time I brewed was uh just before Dax was born. Anyway, uh my second son. To all uh electrical beers haven't looked back. After learning about low temp cooking in Sous Vide in Modernist Cuisine, I built my first immersion circulator with spare parts I had laying around the brew house.
+
+[39:54] It worked great, but I wanted something insulated with a cover that was a little larger. Um I built my second immersion circulator for an arts fest party at Penn State where I live, Penn State Kitty Lions. I knew I'd never been there. I've always wanted to go to their dairy program over there. Here it's really good.
+
+[40:08] You ever been to Penn State? No. That's where my uh grandfather went. Yeah. Uh where I uh I retrofitted one of those Igloo Max Cold 150 quart coolers with a 5,500 watt water heater element and a Renko temp controller and backpack 30 pounds of ribs, each rack individually, of course, and cooked them at 143 Fahrenheit for 48 hours, then finished them on a really hot Weber charcoal grill with wood chips.
+
+[40:29] They were delicious, and I did indeed look like a rock star. I recently tossed out the Fry Daddy I bought in college. Good move. Fry Daddy, good starter. Not a good I mean, look, I'm not no insult to the Fried Daddy Corporation.
+
+[40:40] Not enough power in a Fry Daddy and inapply named. It should be called like, you know, Fry Junior or like Fry Baby. Fried baby. It should be called Fried Baby. It's very small.
+
+[40:50] It's in no way the daddy of deep friars. Uh I recently tossed out my Fry Daddy that I bought in college. I'm intrigued by your French fry process. My French fry process is a pain in in the butt. It like involves like enzymatic treatment, then blanching, then some drying, depending on what the size of the fry is, then freezing, then twice frying.
+
+[41:07] Anyway. Um I'm intrigued by your French fry process and want to also become the monk of the fryer whatever you call it. You've touched on induction cooktops uh cooktops in a couple of episodes. I have a gas range for my normal cooking. I was wondering what you thought about the standalone induction cooktops available now.
+
+[41:24] Uh all right, so wait, I'm being told that I'm gonna take a caller and then come back and answer this question about induction. Sure. Do you say there's color? Yeah. Caller, you're on the air.
+
+[41:33] Hey Dave, it's Brian uh in San Francisco. How are you doing? Doing well. Good. Good, good.
+
+[41:38] Um question. So over the weekend, I tried to make some um banana pudding. The flavors were delicious, but I you know, the recipe uh I used called for some cornstarch. Right. Um it ended up tasting a little bit, I guess, gritty.
+
+[41:55] Um all the the recipes I've seen for, you know, vanilla pudding or butterscotch pudding or banana, uh, a lot of them seem to call for um some kind of uh of starch mixed in. Um so you know, I made a a slurry before I I I mixed it in, and um there were no lumps, but it didn't have the kind of same smoothness that I really wanted. And one thing that I saw was that after you kind of finish and after it's sets, if you s continue to stir it too much, then that might uh cause some some grittiness. So I'm wondering a should I continue using um for my puddings of starch uh but like like corn starch or or tapioca starch or something? Um or what's uh what's a better method?
+
+[42:47] Huh. Well, you know, I don't do uh a lot of um I don't do a lot of puddings, but all the ones that I have done are with the cornstarch. I'm gonna tell you what I'm gonna do, Stas. See if you can get Piper to call in and because he's worked on all those pudding stuff. What?
+
+[43:05] Oh, well, Piper's not around. Uh uh, I'll tell you what, I'll research, I'll research some pudding stuff for you, and we'll get back to you uh next week. Can you tweet it into me so I can drop it into my inbox for next week? I'll I'll tweet it into you reminding you about the puddings. All right, because I don't feel that I don't feel comfortable enough to answer you on uh puddings right off the top of my head.
+
+[43:23] I'm gonna look up some uh data on grittiness in it. But I all the ones I've made typically I do I do the old fashioned cornstarchy ones. So I'll I'll I'll look into it. Also tweet me the recipe that you used if you have it so we can uh troubleshoot that and I'll read it to you. Right, and send you the link.
+
+[43:40] Piper's my pudding man. Thanks so much. No problem. We'll get to it next week. Thanks so much.
+
+[43:44] Okay, back to induction. Uh I have a gas range for my normal cooking. I was wondering what you thought about the standalone induction cooktops available now. The infomercial new wave one can be had for fifty dollars. Have you seen this infomercial?
+
+[43:57] New Wave is an oven that they make some sort of what I think I could tell from their advertising is a uh is a kind of a home impingement oven, like a like a fast air impingement oven. But they also make something called a PIC precision induction cooktop. But I you know, I I'm dubious of any of the of the infomercial stuff. Unless it's a Billy Mays product. God bless Billy May rest in peace, right?
+
+[44:19] You know I love Billy Mays. That's like his voice. I would buy anything. It's like it's like, you know, it's like Billy Mays. I would buy from him, I'd buy, you know, pretty much whatever Snoop Dogg tries to sell except for those awful malt liquor beverages that he repped.
+
+[44:30] Okay. Um the new infomercial new wave one can be had for like $50. Since you can supposedly control the temperature rather accurately with these things, could it supplant a dedicated fryer for the home kitchen? Is it no? Is it powerful enough to keep a decent volume of oil at 375?
+
+[44:46] Or is it just another piece of uh TV infomercial junk? Uh I don't know. I don't never used it. I don't know whether it's high quality. It does appear to have a bunch of nice functionality, but uh any attempt to use it well, we'll get into this.
+
+[44:59] Okay. Alternatively, can you recommend a model that you think would work for this application? Forgive me if you've already answered this question. Thanks. Keep up the good work, and I'll be visiting both Roberters and Booker and Dax next time I'm in the city.
+
+[45:09] Uh and another question on induction in from Alex. Great show, thanks for doing it. I was looking into getting started in induction cooking, but there seems to be a fair amount of incomplete or misinformation out there on the internet. I even noticed that modernist cuisine.com recommends a Max Burton model, but has a picture of a Mr. Induction at the top of the page.
+
+[45:27] I am confused. What kind of power size features will I want? As long as you're throwing out recommendations, is there any brand of pots and pans you particularly like on induction burners and burners? Is that the right word? Cooktops.
+
+[45:37] They don't know. Oh, by the way, in England, going back to the Ice Lolly folks, uh, they call them a hobs, but I don't know anyone in the U.S. that calls their burner a hob. Do you? Nope.
+
+[45:46] Would you like to be would does that sound gross to you, Hobb? Kind of. Yeah? Yeah, Stas doesn't like Hob. I would just keep calling it a burner, but if you're from the UK, you can call it an induction hub.
+
+[45:55] Like Thomas Hobbes? Well, no, no, one B. H O B like corn on the Hob. Okay. Corn on the Hob.
+
+[46:01] Yeah. Like throw the corn on the cob in the pan. That's on the hob. On the hob. Yeah.
+
+[46:06] Yeah, like that. Uh okay. Uh I will save my questions about the differences between a CVAP and a combi oven for another day. Thanks, Alex. Yes, because we will run out of time before I can get to that.
+
+[46:15] Uh although I guess we will. Anyway, whatever. Okay, so look. On all of your induction questions. First, uh Max Burton.
+
+[46:23] Interesting thing about the Max Burton. There is a I I own one. I haven't started using it yet. All of those kind of small induction things are, my guess, relatively the same. Meaning they all have relatively the same power output.
+
+[46:38] I think they're roughly 1,500 watts, 15 to 1800 watts. But you can't use a straight wattage output. And the reason that's why they are is because in the U.S. everything is designed to be run comfortably off of a 15 amp uh 120 volt uh wall socket. And so most companies are very loath to, on a consistent basis, pull more than about 1,500 watts out of the wall.
+
+[47:04] A little more. Uh you know, anything more than that, and you're gonna get into a commercial unit that uses 220 volts. And then you could start putting bigger wires in, and you're gonna have a much thicker cord, and then you can start pulling more wattage out. So if you were gonna get an induction range in your house to supplant having a regular gas or electric range, that's gonna have a much bigger uh set of wires going to it. And you can get a lot more power to it.
+
+[47:27] Now, you cannot equate you cannot equate the wattage directly to the wattage of an electric heater because it is boatloads more efficient, just tons more efficient. And so it's very hard. And you can't really equate it to gas because it's a lot more efficient than gas. Now, the a very, very high output home, sorry, a very, very high output commercial gas burner will boil faster than one of these Mr. Burton things.
+
+[47:56] But the average even semi pro home gas burner will not boil uh water as quickly as uh a decent home induction unit. And that's really the method, that's really what you want to test. How fast is it going to put heat into into my product? The other great thing about induction, and I've said this many times, that I love, is that it's not going to heat up your whole kitchen because it's only heating the pan. That said, you need to have pans that uh work well with the induction.
+
+[48:22] Uh and most pans you can tell whether they've worked well within the with induction. You know one second when you put it down or not whether it's going to work. But you know, a lot of new modern pans can work with induction, but you should check to make sure. I don't have any particular one that I love or don't love, but I will tell you this. The thing that sucks about cooking with induction is that whenever you put a pan down on an induction burner, the induction burner sits there and tries to figure out what's being put on it.
+
+[48:48] And it and so at first it makes this weird noise while it's trying to cycle through, figuring out what the exact uh kind of frequency it wants to hit your pan with to get the maximum uh you know heating out of it. And by the way, for those of you that are looking up heating, uh we so induction heating in general uh can be done on any metal, right? Because you're dealing with what's called I squared R loss, which is literally just like the power of resistance or heating it, but with an induction cooking on uh cooking, you're not just doing that. You're using what's called the hysteresis loss of ferromagnetic materials to uh to increase uh the effect of uh the induction thing going. So that's why it's really only pans that have that are special for induction that will work.
+
+[49:28] Whereas if you look up induction furnaces, you can easily do things like melt aluminum with them. So that's the that's the deal. But the the special effect of induction only works up till what's called the curie point of the metal. And that's why, for instance, I can't make or have not been able to make an induction version of my red hot poker yet, because the induction heating elements that you get will not heat things up to those levels. Just a little aside in case anyone gives a crap.
+
+[49:52] Now, uh back to induction heating. So the irritating thing about induction is is that it's constantly scanning for a pan, and if it doesn't find the pan, it goes ape on you. And so instead of just keeping the power there, it cycles off and on and gives you little weird error messages. So whenever you lift the pan to do a saute, it makes a little weird noises, and it's I uh it's irritating to get used to. Have you noticed that, Sas?
+
+[50:12] No. I haven't. You've never lifted the pan while you were cooking on it? You cook on induction every day? Oh, that thing, yeah.
+
+[50:18] Yeah, I don't like it. No. It also doesn't have very good feedback, but it's fantastic, especially in in pastry kitchens, and they're getting they're getting better and better. As for your Max Burton, the interesting thing about the Max Burton one is if you find these people on the webs called openschemes.com, they have ripped apart hacked and described the circuit of that particular Max Burton model, and it is particularly easy to tweak. Now don't, because it's dangerous.
+
+[50:42] I don't want to hear that you electrocuted yourself because Dave Arnold told you to tweak it. I want you to go read Open Scheme's website and blame them if you electrocute yourself. But I will say that they give uh detailed explanations of how to dork with that circuit. And so I have plenty of projects out there where I really want to mess with induction. And so if I'm going to do that, I'm going to do it with that Max Burton one.
+
+[51:04] But you have to get a very specific Max Burton one. Okay. Back to the question of frying on induction. Here's the issue. Temperature control is not the name of the game in frying.
+
+[51:14] It is temperature recovery. So what you need is not something that is going to, you know, keep a very accurate but high temperature, but one that as soon as the temperature drops just hits the oil with full force power until it gets back up and even maybe slightly above where you want to go. That's the hallmark of a good fryer, and that's why uh PID control is not a good way to control a fryer. Now, maybe these folks have figured out some awesome way to um to like program a fry cycle into their thing whereby it knows it's a fryer, so it goes into bang bang, i.e., off on control like a fryer does, and just hits the oil like a ton of bricks with full power as soon as it drops below their temperature. But I don't know.
+
+[51:57] You know, they're not they can't possibly be doing it the job that I want because they're measuring it through the pan through the oil, instead of measuring the oil, which is what I want you to do, they're measuring the temperature of the pan through the top of the heating element, which is not very fast. So they're not going to get very fast uh response time. So I'm guessing that they're not gonna be super uh aggressive with the oil, which is what you want. The other problem with cooking on a stovetop, and I've said this and I'll keep saying it: stovetop frying is never ever gonna be as good as commercial tube uh like a tube fryer frying because you don't have a cold zone. Whenever you are heating from the bottom, particles are falling off of your food, sinking to the bottom of the pan and scorching at the bottom and ruining the oil.
+
+[52:43] And also when you're heating from the bottom, you don't have a ton of surface area in contact with the oil, and so you have a lot of local overheating of the oil, and it's problematic. You really want if you really want to do frying right, you want to get yourself a tube fryer. And I've been uh and what happens there, the tubes have a huge surface area, and also there's what's called a cold zone underneath it. And I've been uh it's so that your particles fall through the hot zone into the cold zone and don't scorch out. And I've been no one makes a small one or a home one.
+
+[53:11] I don't really know why. I don't know why. Anyway. Uh hope that answers your question. We I looks like are we we out of time or we're good?
+
+[53:18] We have two minutes. We have two minutes. All right. Alex writes in Dear Cooking Issues team, thanks for your help on the pressure cooker question I sent a couple of weeks ago. I recently came across an article online that suggested dry salting poultry instead of brining it.
+
+[53:28] Obviously, you would lose the benefit of drawing more water into the meat, but really isn't it kind of equivalent to watering down your meat? Is dry salting an alternative? If so, how much salt should be used for giving weight of meat, poultry, and fish. Any ideas about how long it would take would also be much appreciated. Thanks, Alex.
+
+[53:42] Alright, look. I like look, here here's the deal. If you're gonna brine your meat, the reason to brine your meat is because you're gonna take the meat above the temperature, which is gonna start losing moisture, right? That's why we do it. One, two, to get salt into the meat.
+
+[53:55] Now, if you're not gonna overcook the meat, you don't necessarily need to add a lot of water to it. However, you will be drawing water out of it by salting it because the if you're doing a dry salting, you will pull liquid out and then the liquid will s will fall down, right? Whereas if you brine you know away from your product, unless it's brine, you know, bat bagged in there. If you're brining it, it will take up a little bit of extra water, but usually if you're gonna overcook your product, you're gonna lose too much water anyway. That's one of the reasons you brined, because the stuff wasn't moist enough when you can't when you were done with it, so you needed it to pick up that extra moisture.
+
+[54:25] Now, if you're not gonna overcook it, then sure, you're salting it just for flavor. But uh I you know I don't have a problem when I do a light brine for if it's a light brine for flavor. When you're brining a fish, you're also brining a fish because okay brining for flavor. There's brining for uh it be and brining for flavor you can do by salting on the outside. The problem with salting on the outside is it tends to be relatively concentrated on the outside.
+
+[54:49] So unless you wipe it off and then let it equilibrate for a long time you're gonna get an overly salty outside and under salted inside whereas the brine lets you be a little more gentle in your salt contact. Just saying and if you've ever tasted your brine that you've thrown your chicken into or your turkey afterwards, you know what it tastes like? Like salt water with a little bit of blood in it. You're not s like sucking a lot of flavor out of your product so your only real gripe is the water that you're putting into it right. So sure if you're flavoring if you're brining for flavor, sure dry salt it a little bit and then uh you know wipe it off let it equilibrate for a little while so it's not too salty on the outside and maybe you're gonna be in luck, right?
+
+[55:23] Or maybe not. Maybe it may be too salty on the outside. If you're brining because you're worried you're gonna overcook it, then you want to add the extra moisture to it as well as get the salt in there because the salted proteins hold on to moisture better than the unsalted ones do. Okay. So there it's i I mean whatever.
+
+[55:41] If you're gonna overcook it you want to add the moisture period. The third reason to brine something out on something like fish is because if you cook fish that hasn't been brined especially with low temperature you get too much of that white protein crap bubbling out of the fish and it spoils the appearance of the surface and a light brining will take care of that for you and stop that from happening. And sure you can do that by just salting the outside. If you're doing it just for flavor, I don't really have any ratios. I just go like this you're you you'd be if you were looking at me, you'd be seeing my hand sprinkling salt over.
+
+[56:09] I sprinkle a good coating of salt all around it and then let it sit, but I've never really measured it. You stuzz? No. Anyway, uh hope that helps. See you next week.
+
+[56:17] Cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org.
+
+[56:48] Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Fairway Market, like no other market, a New York City institution that sells the best local, national, and international artisan foods for prices that can't be beat. For more information, visit Fairway Market.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:34] We're back from a two-week hiat. It's really uh unfortunate hiat. We didn't really mean to have it that way, right? I was in Austria one day. And then Harvard.
+
+[0:40] And then Harvard and Austria, I couldn't uh I couldn't call in because we were actually shooting uh whatever the thing I was I was in Austria for EC, the people that make the whipped cream makers. I was doing some rapid infusion stuff over there. And uh the whole crew was uh over in uh Harvard last week. We'll talk about that in a minute. Today, join as usual.
+
+[0:59] Nastash of the hammer little bit. How you doing, Stas? Good. Yeah. Just have uh, you know, Joe's holding down the fort in the booth over there.
+
+[1:04] How are you doing, Joe? Where's Jack? It's a little lonely. Yeah, I know it's like where's Jack? It's Jack, no love for us today, huh?
+
+[1:09] Yeah, yeah, I guess not. Uh he's just gone missing. I haven't seen him all day. Is he out like apple picking or something? At least very autumn yet.
+
+[1:15] It's night, it's apple picking weather right now. I don't know if the apples are ready yet, but it's apple picking weather. Certainly is. Speaking of, I hear this year's gonna be a good harvest for apples, so uh look for uh look for me to start screaming about how much I love certain apple varieties that they come in. Ash Meats kernel, my favorite.
+
+[1:31] Remember the Ash Meats Kernel drink? So good. We're gonna if I can get a good supply of uh Ash Mead's kernel from uh tell you what. After I locate my supply of Ash Meats Colonel and buy everything I'll need, I'll tell everyone else where they can go get the Ash Mead's kernel, because you know, we're allowed to hold a little bit back for ourselves, am I right? Yeah.
+
+[1:46] That's true. Yeah. Joe, what have you been up to? Anything good? No, I've uh, you know, I'm kind of like a very summer person, so I'm kind of just like mourning the loss of my favorite season.
+
+[1:57] Oh, really? Yeah, but I guess it will be nice to like go apple picking and stuff. Oh, yeah. That'll be great. Yeah, plus I hate the sun.
+
+[2:03] Ooh, I hate it. Oh, it's my enemy. Oh, I hate it so much. Without it, I kind of like turn into a a raisin, which would you think would be the opposite. Yeah.
+
+[2:10] Yeah. I just go from uh pasty to lobster and back and back and forth. It's my two speeds, pasty and lobster. So, uh calling questions to 7184972128. That's 7184972128.
+
+[2:22] Oh, by the way, Stud, you want to tell them what happened in the Harvard? No, you. What? You you you have a good spin on it. I do?
+
+[2:28] Yes. Alright, so I think here's what happened. So, like uh every year for the past uh I think three years, I've been going up to uh Harvard, they have this like uh what's it what do you call it? Science and cooking, something like this? Yeah.
+
+[2:38] Science cooking. And uh do the first lecture with uh Harold McGee and kind of kick off this kind of science, you know, science cooking, you know, thing of a jig because they figure you know, most of the chefs are gonna bring in are gonna do actual chef demonstrations, and they get, you know, Harold and I doing some demo and some yapping to kind of kick it off and to start with the science aspect of it. Right? Right, okay. So this year Harold's like, hey Dave, why don't you he doesn't talk with this?
+
+[3:03] He's like, hey Dave, why don't you bring the puffing gun up and we'll, you know, we'll use the puffing gun. I was like, well, you know, Harold, the puffing gun is 3200 pounds. Uh well, okay well, okay. So some uh torches got packed. Well, what did that this people don't want to know?
+
+[3:17] This okay, so we're packing the car. First of all, first things first, bought a miniature puffing gun, which I think I might have talked about on the show. I'm not sure. We bought the same one that was used on the Mythbusters program. You can get it from Chinese Popcorn Cannon.com, I believe is what's called a Chinese Popcorn Gun.com.
+
+[3:33] I don't recommend you purchase this item unless you are well versed in adding safety gear because it comes with no safeties at all. Uh as we become apparent. So anyway, so we uh so Piper and I from you know Booker and Dax, we we built a huge safety cage for it so it's safe. We added some over pressure release valve so that we couldn't get, it wouldn't explode, and if it did, nothing bad would happen, etc. etc.
+
+[3:53] Lay out all this safety nonsense, and then we load this thing, which is only a couple hundred pound pounds really, in into uh my my Subaru route back. We drive it up to Harvard, but as we load this stuff in, we put a bunch of torches in, and we forgot to switch the torches into the full off position safety note for you guys. So all of a sudden we're about to pull out of the parking lot, we hear and then we we're like, what the I'm like, stop, stop! We start smelling the propane because the torches were on, right? Yeah.
+
+[4:21] So, and you know, Piper and Nastasha are like, you know, this is by the way, this is just boating ill for the whole trip, is what's happening now. So Piper opens the uh opens the uh this the you know the the case where we had packed the torches and jokes, which makes me believe he did this on purpose. He's like, heh heh heh. He doesn't talk like that either. What if I flash off this propane right now?
+
+[4:41] Wouldn't that be funny? And then he clicks the button and flashes the propane off. Piper doesn't have much of arm hair anymore. Right? And well, Stas, you enjoyed the ride.
+
+[4:50] You were right next to it, right? Yeah, it was awesome. Sweet, right? So anyway, so I'm like, well, we've had our we've had our our blooper moment, right? So we go up to Harvard, uh, you know, hot and heavy with this, with the well, not well, whatever.
+
+[5:02] We to with this puffing gun, we unload it, we set it up in this, in this now. For those of you that have never been to up to Harvard, they had this thing called the Science Center where everyone does the big science demonstrations, right? And we load it in there and it's a public lecture, so it's you know, it's not students necessarily, it's anyone from the community around Cambridge, Boston can come see it. I think it's free, right? It's free.
+
+[5:22] So they show up, it's you know, pretty full, pretty packed, you know, house, and uh we had fired the gun twice to test it beforehand to make sure that we had all the stuff down. So we go to fire it, and the freaking sealant around the inside of the puffing gun gave way, and the puffing gun started to unspin, which means now here's the thing. When you're a puffing gun relies on the fact that you're volatilizing the uh some of the moisture that's inherent inside of grain. So we start with rice, let's say, around 17% moisture. Uh 15%, I forget what the one we have was fairly high moisture, 17%.
+
+[5:55] We're using the shiki, I think. You start out with a relatively high moisture rice. You put it into uh the puffing gun, a small portion of that moisture is volatilized and used to pressurize the puffing gun. And the rest of the moisture that's in the in the rice is used to uh gelatinize the starch at very high temperatures, right? And then to flash off when you open the gun, expand and puff it.
+
+[6:15] So the moisture has two rolls there. If there's even a small leak in a puffing gun, a small leak, you uh vol like when you volatilize the liquid, it leaves, and then you keep sucking moisture out, and then eventually you don't have enough moisture left to puff or to build pressure, and so you just scorch your product into like tidal scorched pellets. So I notice that the pressure thing is fluctuating, and I'm like, oh no, there's a little leak. I look over, I see the sealant, pipe, and I can see that it's unspinning. So in kind of a last minute attempt to get it to work, I jacked the heat a little bit for a minute, realized I wasn't going to get the pressure up, but here's the problem.
+
+[6:49] You have to vent it anyway because the pressure's gonna keep going up, and you don't want the safety to go off, right? Right. So we knock the thing open, uh, it flies out. We we spray scorched uh we space we you know, Nastasha and I actually sewed a beautiful, we have this thing. If you look at the YouTube videos of these things in action in um in China, everyone fires into what we lovingly call the filthy sock.
+
+[7:11] There's like a filthy sock on the ground that they fire this stuff into that they then you know anyway. So Nastasha and I made our own filthy sock. I think the filthy sock is quite nice. Yeah. I broke my sewing machine on it, and Nastasha broke her sewing machine on it, so it's a two-sewing machine filthy so uh sock problem.
+
+[7:26] So, anyways, so we we little and we fire all these like burnt rice pellets into the filthy sock, and I think it's over, right? Only we set off the damned fire alarms, and the entire building had to be evacuated, and there was a bunch of like science science people in lab coats like sitting there moping, not being able to do their experiments on this on the sidewalk. So, all in all, a freaking nightmare. Right? My favorite was is that uh that it got picked up in in eater, and then the the comment was someone someone put a comment.
+
+[7:58] You didn't miss much. There's a there's a reason this guy's never had a chef's job. Right? That's a sweet comment. You like that?
+
+[8:05] Oh, haters. Anyway, uh so that's what we've been doing for the past week. Uh I'm gonna take some questions. Did I already tell them what number to call into? I did.
+
+[8:12] I don't yeah. 7184972 and tweet. 7184972 and tweet. Let's get some questions because we have a bunch. Gloria Goodwin writes uh Gloria Goodwin, uh uh and I'm gonna mispronounce your name, Gloria.
+
+[8:22] What do you think? Rahija? Reheija? Yeah. Rehea, what do you think?
+
+[8:27] Rahija. Rahija? Rahija. Sorry, I just butchered your name. Um, listen, people people who've written in more than once know that I'm gonna butcher your name, right?
+
+[8:35] So you might as well just give me a little pronunciation guide so that I don't butcher your name, which makes you feel bad and makes me feel stupid. It's a lose-lose situation, right? I hate butchering people's names. Um speaking of butchering names, uh uh Riper, John Riper, who who, by the way, told me how to pronounce his name, in other words, it's not Ripper, it's not repair, whatever, it's riper. Uh, thanks for the peaches, buddy.
+
+[8:57] Peaches were delicious. I ate some peaches. Uh quite tasty. Although I have to say, listen, here's my feeling on peaches. Sorry, Gloria, I'm gonna get to this thing in a second.
+
+[9:05] The the peaches, I am Nastash and I only really agree on one thing in life, right? And that is that the the best peach is actually a nectarine, right? That's that's the kind of the only fundamental thing that we agree on in terms of food. You like nectarines better, yes? Yes, I do.
+
+[9:23] Yeah, okay. But that but that's because we get in general kind of crappy peaches here in New York. You probably get got better ones when you were growing up in SoCal. But anyway. So, uh, but as peaches go, right?
+
+[9:36] So there are people who are adherents. So John sent us some of these donut style white peaches, and then some regular yellow, you know. I don't know the variety actually. Did he incentives variety? I don't know.
+
+[9:45] Anyway. No, there are lots of varieties. He sent me the breakdown. Oh, you but I didn't receive it, so I was just eating blind. Awesome, great.
+
+[9:53] I love that. Anyway, so like the white donut, what white peaches in general are so floral, but they lack the acid backbone. Does anyone know of a peach variety that has that floral characteristic that has the acid backbone to kind of back it up so that it has that kind of awesome peach flavor? What do you I've never had, what do you think? I don't like white peaches very much.
+
+[10:12] Because it's too floral? Yeah. Do you also not like do you know how remember how there's like some dessert varieties of apple that are extremely floral and that we we were having in our in our tastings? I can't forget which one comes to mind, but you know, some of the pearanes and stuff like this. You didn't like those either, right?
+
+[10:27] Not really. Yeah, because you like more of an acid acid kind of yeah. Yeah, Nastasha likes, you know, likes her mouth to be smacked around a little bit by by acid, by acid. I don't want to hear anything, people. Okay.
+
+[10:39] Gloria Goodwin, uh Rahija. On to Keila. Hello. In December of 2011, I made several bottles of this fabulous tequila sauce, and it's uh from a Sevara recipe for tequila hot sauce, uh that was uh posted in 2011. Uh I gave away uh several bottles as gifts and kept one for myself.
+
+[10:55] I used about half of mine, mainly on fish, and it's wonderful. I believe it's from Hill Country the recipe. I think I gotta go look it up. Anyway, uh and it's wonderful. Uh I then forgot about it and uh it got pushed to the back of a cupboard.
+
+[11:06] Do you think that it's still okay to use after all this time? Or would there be any risks? The chilies have lost all of their color now, and the patron silver is quite dark, but I would think that the alcohol would prevent bacterial growth. I just wanted to make sure before I use it, thanks, uh, Gloria Goodwin Rahija, professor of anthropology, which is an awesome job. Anthropology, cool subject.
+
+[11:24] Uh, at the University of Minnesota. Okay, you you are in good shape here. This is totally safe. Now the question is, um, what's gonna happen to the uh taste of it after all this time? And I and I don't know, right?
+
+[11:35] Because the taste is not gonna be a hundred percent stable, but uh you know, you've everything's pretty much at this point what we call reached equilibrium. So it's not that the uh it's not that um you know it's it's it's probably all all all the same, right? So the s some of the color was leap they didn't leech out all of their color. They leached out probably to the degree they're probably equal in color with the patron bottle. You know what I'm trying to say, Stas, right?
+
+[11:55] I don't know, fumbling over, but you know what I'm trying to say. The really only safety risks that you have with this sort of thing aren't with uh aren't with uh liquor like tequila, are with oils, right? So if you were packing an oil thing like this, then it would be uh, you know, fairly unsafe. But if you were gonna do a pepper in an oil situation, you'd have to guarantee the microbial's uh safety of the pepper before you put it into the oil, right? Um, either by increasing the salt content or increasing the acid content through fermentation or whatever.
+
+[12:21] In that situation, you have to be worried about safety. And if you did do something like that for the oil, the then the problem would be that you were um you'd be adding things that would cause the oil to break down faster, salts, acids, things like this. Uh which is why for oils, you usually want to add dry items, or you just don't store them that long, or you remove the high liquid items. Here, the high liquid item is very quickly being uh the liquid in it's being very quickly replaced by uh tequila. And even if you were to add a preposterous amount of chili to the tequila, you're never gonna reduce the alcohol content lower than I mean even if you used over half pepper, right?
+
+[12:58] To tequila, you're still only gonna probably drop the uh the proof down to you know a little above 20, uh 20% rather. And at 20% you're still golden, you know. So you're there's no safety, there's no safety issues at all. Like whether or not it still tastes exactly the way you want, different question, but use it away. And um you should make a note of how things taste.
+
+[13:18] And this is actually something that we do all the time when we make liquors, and it's a good practice whenever you're making liquors or infusions, is to not use the last little bit and save it for a long, long time and kind of see how uh the flavor drifts over time because it can be very interesting and instructive. Yes? Yes. Yes. Although, did I ever tell the story about the radish liquor?
+
+[13:36] No. So you know, I do lots of liquor infusions, this is one thing I do. And I don't know, like five, six years ago, I made a uh a uh I forget whether it was Western radish or daikon. I think it was Dicon, but it was like uh pinkish. It was pinkish, so it must have been regular anyway.
+
+[13:52] Uh I made a radish infusion uh into I think it was gin, and it tasted fantastic, right? Smelled like farts. Like straight up farts. So I was like, well, okay, I'm gonna stick this uh bottle on the shelf and I'm gonna taste it, you know, once a month for the next couple. And I tasted it.
+
+[14:12] I I I I didn't taste it every month after the first couple of months. I let it go, but over the course of like three or four years, I've waited for the fart to go away. Fart never went away. We didn't take that with us when we moved out of the no. Because like it turns out fart in a in a in a radish liquor.
+
+[14:28] Point minute. Okay. So I got two questions on uh fermentation today. I'm gonna hit them both kind of at the same time. Uh you know what we should get Dan Felder from the Momafuku lab because he's like a fermentation nut.
+
+[14:39] The guy spends all of his time thinking about fermentation, right? Uh we maybe if people want it, you tweet us in, maybe we'll try to get him to come in here and we'll have like a specific fermentation related. I think he charges now though. What the hell kind of thing is that to say charges? Charges for what?
+
+[14:57] Charges for his like time. Dave, do you know about the show on on uh on heritage that's called uh foment about it? It's a nice fermentation show and foment about it. Probably my favorite pun of all time. Yeah, has uh Dan Felder been on that one?
+
+[15:12] No, but I will recommend. Yeah, or I can have him here. I know Dan, and I believe that uh my help over the years with centrifuging things could probably get me a freebie of him coming on the cooking issues radio program styles. See, this is a little insight into see that thing where she says I think he charges. That's just her being mean.
+
+[15:28] I know it's that's just the stasha trying to be a vicious person. It's a little insight for you people into what I live with every day. Okay, uh Timothy writes in about uh about tomatoes. Um thanks for explaining what was going on in that Kowloon walled city spring roll rapper video. We saw.
+
+[15:46] Uh we talked about this, I don't know, a couple months ago, probably. This like amazing city that had no rules that was like all built up like in this weird kind of really crazy style, like really, you know, uh it's like a steampunk dream nightmare kind of. Anyway, no rules. I like uh do you like that? Would you like a no rule place?
+
+[16:01] No. No? No. Okay. Uh I found the recipe for those on Joe Pastry uh in uh in his uh article, Chinese Spring Roll Skin Recipe from 2012, and I'm going to give it a shot sometime soon.
+
+[16:11] A more pressing matter, I just started my second batch of hey uh pronounce this Italian head. Oh I'll have to pronounce it, and then she's just gonna laugh at me because uh my computer went crazy. Conserva crudo di Pamidoro. It's good. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[16:26] See, I learned this when I was in Austria. Uh I I took German in in college, right? And when I went to Austria, they they were like, hey, your your accent, but my German is horrible, but they're like, your accent is is so good. And it's because Arnold Schwarzenegger comes from uh comes from Austria. And so whenever I speak German, I just think about watching Arnold Schwarzenegger movies.
+
+[16:47] So instead of like, you know, so instead of saying like ausgezeichnet like a an American, I'm like Ausgezeichnet, like this, and they're like, ah, your pronunciation is perfect, and then uh and I was like, this is hilarious. It's like I've never been to Austria before. I was like, this is great. So when I do Italian, I just think about Cesare. Just think about Cesare, and then I'm Cesare, our good friend good friend of ours, Cesare Casella.
+
+[17:08] Uh amazing, amazing cook, nice host, too, right? Good, good, good person, good peoples. Uh okay. Uh I made my second batch of this stuff which I won't repronounce, following the instruction in Sandor Katz's uh that he printed in The Art of Fermentation, which I reread almost cover to cover last night. Good book.
+
+[17:21] You read that yet? No. Do you like fermentation? No. No.
+
+[17:24] No kidding. You don't like the you like the products, but you don't like the idea? Yeah? Mm-hmm. Uh okay.
+
+[17:32] Uh I follow uh so I followed the recipe to the letter uh last year, uh adding 20% salt by weight, which was unsurprisingly extremely salty. Uh, what role does a salt prey in preservation? Now remember, 20%. It's not a typo. I looked up the uh I looked up the technique in the book.
+
+[17:44] Uh, and so this is like not a typo that Timothy is sending us. This is actually what they add, 20%. The recipe says the finished paste uh was originally kept indefinitely at room temperature, a level of preservation I don't need. The fridge seems like an uh obvious place for it. I found a post from the Nordic food lab where they used 8% salt for the similar recipe, the same same recipe.
+
+[18:08] In fact, they also got the recipe from uh from the Art of Fermentation where they used 8% salt, but I'm curious if I can go even lower. The limit for how much salt I could use of the original batch was how salty I wanted my dish to be, and I'd love to get away from that, i.e. to use more of it. Keep up the great work, Timothy. Okay, yeah.
+
+[18:24] That is a fantastically high salt uh rate. And the way that this product is made, it's kind of strange, is you pulp tomatoes and you throw them in a bucket, and then you let them with nothing, nothing, and you let them ferment and bubble and let white mold grow on the top. So as I saw a picture of it with the white mold bubbling on top, she's making her her kind of it's like similar to a vegan face. And and you uh and you scoop the mold up off the top when you're done after it's fermenting, uh, and you pass the the liquid solids uh through uh like a you know the equivalent of you want to get the solids out, right? The liquid, uh he doesn't I don't really mention how to use, but the Nordic food lab people they like it, right?
+
+[19:02] So then you have the liquid, which apparently is very fruity and and and awesome smelling according to the Nordic uh food labs um you know description of it. And then you have this solid paste. You then knead salt into that paste until it becomes like a dough. And then that dough uh is like sticks around i i indefinitely, right? So that's the basic thing.
+
+[19:20] But 20% salt, you are basically turning it into a tomato paste salt situation. You are using it as salt, and yes, it will keep probably forever at that uh salt level, but you're right that you're only gonna be able to use a small amount of it, so you're never gonna be able to blast the tomato flavor out because you're adding such a small amount. Um what you know now the Nordic food labs, 8% salt is gonna be fine. I'm sure you could do 4% salt even and be okay because remember the water activity in that's already fairly low. You've gotten rid of most of the liquid, so you're dealing with almost uh you know it's already been um not dehydrated but forcibly had water removed from it, so it has a lower water content, and you're kneading salt into it uh more and you're packing it down.
+
+[20:04] So I would bet you could get away with four uh or you know, possibly even a little bit less. But the remember the thing is by adding salt, any further like the the level of salt that you add is going to change the uh what what bacteria and what other flora are gonna grow on it, right? So the different salt levels shift the speed at which fermentation takes place, any further fermentation past the the saltless in the giant bucket fermentation, and also uh shift the balance of what's gonna be growing on it. In a related question, Marty in Eagle Rock about uh pickled peppers, pickled peppers. Peter and Piper picked.
+
+[20:39] Yeah, so you know, anyway. You know, my my son, that that's not a hard tongue twister to say. Say it for me. Peter Piper picked a peck of pickled peppers. Yeah.
+
+[20:48] How many, how many, how many pickled peppers did Peter Pepper pick? I don't know. A peck, you just told me a peck. You picked a peck. A peck is a half bushel, people.
+
+[20:57] It's a volumetric measurement. Get with your like fruit measurements here. A peck is a half bushel. Okay. Um dear Dave, Nastasha, Jack, and Joe.
+
+[21:07] Uh, although Jack doesn't care enough about you, Marty, from Eagle Rock, to show up and listen to your question. Uh I'm just messing around. I'm making a lacto fermented pepper sauce using Tybird chilies, and uh recipes on the web suggest everything from 2.5% to 10% salt by weight. I went with 4% as that's the concentration I used for pickle brine. So to three kilograms of chili, I added 120 grams of salt as well as a liter of 4% brine.
+
+[21:30] But I got to thinking that because the chilies don't have much water weight in them, that this matches mash is way more salty than my pickle brine, so I'm afraid I might have screwed myself. I love that when people say stuff like that. I say that all the time. Because it's true most of the time. I have screwed myself.
+
+[21:44] Uh so my questions are what is the optimal salinity for lacto fermentation? How can you best measure it given that the various vegetables have their differing water contents? And how long would you age this stuff? The Maclehenny Company ages their stuff for three years, but I know the fermentation will be over in a couple of weeks. Well, best Marty and Eagle Rock.
+
+[22:01] Well, remember, there's done and then there's done, right? So things that are fundamentally done in a short amount of time still have aging effects that take place over long over longer periods of time. And the Maclehennies, apparently I've never been to uh Avery Island where they make Tabasco, but apparently the whole place reeks of freaking Tabasco. You ever been down there? No.
+
+[22:21] My my wife went uh and because you know she grew up uh part of her life in Louisiana, and she goes there, but like it's so weird, like the Maclehenny's like it's weird. I I'll go someday. Anyway, um, so the it's there is no such thing as the one optimum uh salinity, right? Different products have different um optimal salinities. I did look up this though.
+
+[22:42] Unless the Tybird chilies have fundamentally a lot less water than something like a bell pepper. I looked on cowpeppers.com and cowpeppers.com, which is kind of a good website, cowpepper, cowpepper.com, uh, cowpepper uh com and another uh uh article I looked that say that the solids content of uh pepper is f pretty low. So for 32 tons of uh 32.7 tons of jalapeno only contain 2.6 tons of dry matter, which means that the balance it's well over 90% uh water. Uh now now you could be having a lot of stems because they're Thai bird chilies. If it depends on whether you stemmed them or not, uh the stems are obviously gonna have a lower water content, but you're probably dealing with um something that has a fairly high water content.
+
+[23:29] So I wouldn't worry about it from that point. However, um, you know, you a lot of people will use a four or five percent brine without adding the extra salt to make up for it, and then what they're actually shooting for is like a two and a half percent brine once everything's done. So it's you know it's very confusing. Most recipes just give a brine strength and they don't do the calculations to figure out um what the actual finished salinity is going to be after everything done out. Now I do know that people pickling bell peppers prefer a higher if they're whole, if they're not going to be chopped up, but they they prefer a higher initial uh salt um uh uh level to kill or to prevent um endogenous, in other words, like uh occurring on the pepper already uh strains that they don't want from um proliferating before the fermentation really starts.
+
+[24:17] But you can get rid of that by just a quick blanch, right? And then going with a lower salt situation. But the Thai chilies aren't that big anyway. So I'm thinking you would probably wouldn't need um super high salt concentration, with the exception of if you don't break the skins at all, it's gonna be hard for it to penetrate the skins because the skins on those things can be kind of a pain in the butt sometimes. So yes or no?
+
+[24:36] Yeah. So uh my my I guess the long and short of it is yeah, you you didn't necessarily screw yourself, it's not absurdly high because those are so freaking hot that how much can you really eat anyway, you know, you know it's like you're not gonna be adding that much salt because how many Thai bird chilies can you sit there and just pound. I mean, I used to train myself to eat habaneros uh just to be a jerk until my wife could no longer kiss me when she came home from work because uh uh my lips would burn her mouth, right? So it's not like I'm saying that I can't take hot foods, although I haven't been trained in in it's been several decades since I really trained myself hardcore. Well, a little almost two decades.
+
+[25:09] Um but uh point being is that even in my prime, it's like you can eat uh you can eat Thai bird, you know, the the type, but you know, you're not gonna eat so much that you're gonna be like, man, that's salty. I can't have any more I can't stand it because of the salt. You know what I mean? As opposed to the capsecum. Um but anyway, uh I did also look up some other stuff and to more to your question, what is the optimum uh range?
+
+[25:32] And all the papers I looked at said there is no optimum range. It depends on what you want. So I looked up uh an article you can get on the internet from uh Geneva from Geneva's Agricultural Extension, which I love. I love they've done so many awesome things. Like uh someday, uh maybe we'll do uh well, I won't because we won't do it, but like a whole show on on the history of the Geneva Agricultural Extension and what they've done for um agriculture in the great state of New York.
+
+[25:54] But uh a guy named Carl S. Peterson in 1959 wrote an article aptly titled Sauerkraut. And in uh sauerkraut, you know, they they wanted to get very, very small uh like low, low salt con concentration. So they were they were dealing with between uh uh one and a half uh or or you know, it's not really supposed to have one and a half. Like uh the FDA in uh 1916, when they came out, they wanted uh sauerkraut to be between two percent and three percent uh NACL, right?
+
+[26:25] That was their rule, between 2 and three. Although um they studied in here ones that were lower and ones that were higher. The problem with uh low salt, if you go too low, there's a couple things that are wrong with uh too low. When you go too low, uh things tend to grow that can make vegetables mushy. And so you if you look at it, um you want a certain level of salt that makes things mushy uh that to prevent things from getting mushy, and you can also add things like calcium or you know, divalent the divalent uh cations to help that as well, or use salt that is high in calcium magnesium impurities.
+
+[26:57] Uh but uh you want to add a certain level of salt so that uh you know they don't go mushy on things like sauerkraut, but not so much salt that it's too salty to eat. Uh another article um called kinetic growth parameters of different uh amyloolytic and non-amylolytic lactobacillus strains under various salt and pH conditions by MS Rao said that uh four percent's a good number, all around number. But that's but sauerkraut that would be way too high. Four percent sauerkraut, people would be like, that's not sauerkraut, what are you crazy? What are you nuts?
+
+[27:28] Uh interesting fact. Uh when you're mixing sauerkraut in the old days, there was a phenomenon where they would they would take the kraut, salt it, and throw it into giant vats. And when they threw it into giant vats, somehow the actual compression of this cabbage hitting inside of the vat as it's packing in would cause there to be a low salt concentration in the middle and a high salt concentration on the outside. So in the low salt concentrations where there wasn't enough salt, uh you would get mushy sauerkraut. And when the salt concentration was too high, uh the the growth of the lactobacillus uh strains that they have in um in uh sauerkraut, which I forget what they are, some some Lucono stock thing, I think.
+
+[28:07] Uh they they don't grow fast enough to um outcompete or to cause the uh this yeast, this yeast that makes pink sauerkraut, right? The yeast from growing, it doesn't spoil it, so but you'll get this situation in these giant vats, like several tons of sauerkraut where the center of it's gonna be mushy and the outside's gonna be pink, but the overall salt level was uh right. You ever had pink kraut? No. By mistake.
+
+[28:29] I mean not mean like people make red kraut on purpose. Anyway. Uh so what do you think? Answer the question? Yes.
+
+[28:36] Okay. And you know, go read, you know, San Sandor Katz's book, I love it, but he's like he he's very much in the in the realm of eh, don't worry about it. You know what I mean? Like it's gonna work, just taste it and see how it's going it's going to work. The odds are, you know, if if as long as you are better than you know uh 2% salt, uh, you know, you're gonna be it's gonna be gravy.
+
+[28:56] It's just a question of then what organoleptically what's gonna happen and increase in the salt, slows your fermentation, and uh shifts the uh different species that are gonna be growing on it. Okay. Paul Yee writes in, I hope this is the correct email. It is. I have a lot of leftover food grade lye, sodium hydroxide beads from making pretzels.
+
+[29:14] And I was wondering if I could use these beads somehow to make ramen noodles. I've previously made alkali noodles using the recipe from Lucky Peach, and was thinking that I could substitute the baked soda, i.e. sodium carbonate, baked sodium bicarbonate, uh, with sodium hydroxide beads. I would normally just test this myself, but a lot of sources I've read online say that it is dangerous to consume sodium hydroxide. So I wanted to get a professional opinion.
+
+[29:35] Thanks, love the show, Paul Yee. Well, I have a checkered pass with the lie. Uh here's one I say, uh, I'm assuming you've already done this. Label the hell out of that container. Take label the top of the container, label the side of the container, and draw skull and crossbones all over the the container.
+
+[29:52] Um you know, I don't know whether I haven't talked told this in a long time, but uh there was a situation once where I was moving stuff out of uh the lab at the French culinary when we were moving from the FCI to our new place, and someone said, Hey, what's this? And showed me a quart container, right? And I was like, I don't know. And I dipped my finger in it to taste it, put it on my tongue, which I'll never do again, and it was lye because it was the one container stuff we keep around in the kitchen that is horrifically dangerous, and it melted a huge hole in my tongue, eventually grew back. Um so be careful with it.
+
+[30:27] But used uh I mean you ate it when it's in pretzels, and small amounts of lye are in fact fine to use. You just have to get the pH right. I didn't have time to look up the numbers to substitute uh the um how you know how much how many grams of uh of uh lye to add to get the same pH as you did with uh sodium carbonate. I I will say this. Um they both have the same cations, sodium, so you're not dealing with switching a cation out.
+
+[30:51] So it's not it's probably the the what I'm saying here is it's probably gonna work, right? Um that you know, most of the effects uh I think in um most of the effects in noodles from using can sue and other basic things are I believe strictly pH dependent. It's not uh this and and plus I I gotta remember to look up exactly what's in consway, which which bases are used. But if you're using um a sodium-based thing for a cation anyway, you're not gonna have any divalent uh cation, for instance, calcium effects like you would. Like it's important, it's not important, but there are different effects when you use calcium based um bases like uh like calcium hydroxide, you know, sli you know, li pickling lime, uh, when you're doing things like nixtimalization because the calcium has some effect on uh on certain structures depending on what you're doing.
+
+[31:43] But um but in this case, I think you're gonna be fine. It's just a question of making sure that you don't make it way too alkaline. I've can you know you consume sodium hydro, I mean you put it in pretzels, it's gonna you're gonna be fine. Just don't use too much and look up uh how to substitute to get the proper pH. Uh if I'd had time, I would have looked it up for you, but I didn't get a chance.
+
+[32:00] You want to take a break? Sure. And we're gonna go to our first commercial break. We'll be right back with cooking issues. Hi, I'm Steve Jenkins from Fairway Markets.
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+[32:19] I've devoted my idiot career to the old ways, the old recipes, the old tools, the old geography of where serious foods come from for centuries. And I've strived to make these wonderful things available to New Yorkers for 37 years, so it's a feta compli for us to support Heritage Radio Network. And I hope you will too, and I hope you'll keep tuning in. For more information, please visit fairway market.com. And oh welcome back to Cooking Issue Joe.
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+[32:58] You got any uh radiocentric uh things to uh talk about? Any uh any any drives, any anything? Are we uh we're out of the fundraising season? What's going on here? I think fundraising season is over, but um just be on the lookout for some new pieces that we're gonna be putting out.
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+[33:13] Putting out like three to five minute segments, best of coming up soon. So, so you know, to check out the homepage, Heritage Radio Network.org. Now you want to tell our uh our our listeners who uh that uh about the whole new uh the whole new homepage is ja as Jack described this already? I don't know if Jack has described it. Um but it will be unveiled shortly and you're gonna see this whole new format with um different radio spots about you know health, pleasure.
+
+[33:41] So it's gonna be a little bit more newsy, but still with all the programs that you love. Sweet. All right. Uh Nick writes in, hey Dave, Nastashi, Jack and Joe, Nick from Seoul Korea again. When Dave touched on tofu in the past, he's talked about how uh there's good flavorful tofu and then there's the bland watery kind you come across in supermarkets.
+
+[33:59] It's mainly I think it's that they keep they A, they probably don't do a good job making it, and B, they just soak the hell out of it in water. I mean that's the for me the main trick is is that uh when I'm making to well let me finish the question. I don't believe Dave's mentioned how to go about making the good tofu. So how do you make good tofu and what are the primary differences? What are some helpful references, be it on the web or in print that you can recommend?
+
+[34:20] And also, do you know of any places one would go for some good tofu experience? Um, I don't I mean uh if you're in Korea, I'm sure you can get some amazing tofu. I really love uh kind of like you know, Korean kind of cloud tofu soups. So there's a place here in uh New York that does it that I like, but you know, uh you know, you're in the kind of the motherland of that of that kind of a situation, and that's really the only tofu restaurant I go to here in New York. Do you go to uh do you ever go to a tofu restaurant?
+
+[34:51] Um see I'm trying to remember. I've had good home tofu uh home homemade tofu in restaurants, but I'm trying to remember remember where. I mean to me the main the main thing is when you make it yourself, A, you get to choose what texture you want. But B, uh I never ever put it in water, right? So after it, you know, after you do the curds and you and you ladle them and you do whatever level of pressing or not pressing, depending on how soft you want it, uh, that's it for me, right?
+
+[35:15] So it still has some of the whey uh in there, which I like, uh, and it hasn't like all the the you know the flavors of soy, which I actually happen to like, haven't been leached out by having it in big buckets of water for a long time. Um you know, so uh to me like that's the main that's the main difference. Uh so you know the reference that I always give, it's kind of outdated. There's a book I want to get that I don't have uh called uh Asian Tofu, Discover the Best, uh Make Your Own and Cook It At Home by Andrea Nguyen. Uh I don't have this book.
+
+[35:47] It gets good ratings on Amazon, and it's definitely one of the books on my list of things to get. Um but you know, when I I I first started making tofu, I don't know, like, you know, 17 years ago or something like this. Uh maybe not that that far? Maybe 17 years from that, maybe not. Maybe 15, 15 years, maybe.
+
+[36:05] Uh and the book that uh I used was um kind of the only book at the time in English called The Book of Tofu by uh William uh Shirtleff and Akiko Ayagi, I think is how you pronounce her name. And then but the here's the like now uh this might be have been superseded, but at the time, and I've talked about you know these guys before, uh you know, their goal, and they have I think what's called like the Soy Institute or something like this in California, and they're they're still going strong, even though I think they wrote the book in like 1980 something, uh, is uh their goal is uh to save the world through better protein consumption. And you know, soy they wrote a book, a you know, famous book on soy, a famous book on miso, and I believe they have a couple other famous ones. Now here's the thing. You need to go buy their book because it's uh not that expensive, and you need to own it.
+
+[36:54] Uh but there's a bunch of different versions of it on the on the web to buy. I'm not sure if it's still in print or not. You want to make sure you don't get the mass market paperbacks because the mass market paperback is the recipes are hacked up in a weird way that makes it uh impossible. You want to get the larger format paperback is good, and the hardcover, including the hardcover one where they bound the book of Miso and the Book of Tofu together, is fine. The smaller mass market one, at least the edition that I own, and I've owned like four copies of this book.
+
+[37:26] I gave one to Nastasha. Have you ever used that book? But you know, the tofu book. I gave it to you, didn't you? Remember?
+
+[37:31] I hand it to you. Anyway, it got lost. It's gone. Somebody else named Nastasha. Okay.
+
+[37:36] They didn't, I swear I there would be no reason to give it to me. You did not. Well, who else would have asked for it? Mindy? I don't know.
+
+[37:42] Uh and then uh, you know, I own a cup. Whatever. Make sure you get the right one. Um, the other thing is that I you know I don't really follow his his tofu works like this. You make you get your soybeans, you soak them, you gotta soak them for the right amount of time.
+
+[37:57] Uh then you blend them uh with uh different amounts of hot water, and you change the temperature depending on how you want to do it. You blend the hell out of it, right? And then that's determining how thick your soy milk is. Uh change the thickness of soy milk, you know, depending on what you want. I don't remember my specific specs, but I use fundamentally the exact water specs that are in the tofu book, in Shirtleaf's tofu tofu book.
+
+[38:20] Uh then you boil it for a certain amount of time. Now remember, this is the messy part because it will boil over and cause problems because you have to inactivate uh certain anti-nutrients in the uh in the soy. Uh you then uh take it and you stir in a coagulant, right? Now, traditional Japanese coagulant would be nigari, which is the salts left over from or bittern is another word for it. It's the salts left over from the production of sea salt, so sea salt primarily sodium chloride, and then the bittern, the nigari left over, primarily magnesium and calcium oil's other salts.
+
+[38:53] Uh and those are the ones that uh you use for tofu. Now I uh you know at the time didn't have an ax uh supply of this crap, so I just went to the Dwayne Reed, which is our local pharmacy here, although Stas you hate Dwayne Reed or you hate CVS? I love C V S. You hate right aid. I don't hate all the rest.
+
+[39:08] I love CVS. Okay. Um you go and you buy Epsom salts, right? Uh and Epsom salts is what is that? That might be magnesium chloride.
+
+[39:16] I gotta look it up. But you don't want to use too much Epsom salts or it'll it'll make the tofu run through you if you know what I mean. Boop, boop, boop, because it's a laxative, you know what I'm saying? But uh a small amount of Epsom salts is stirred in. Um the the cations in the Epsom salt uh cause the tofu to coagulate break.
+
+[39:34] Uh you carefully move it around to get the to get the curves to coagulate without beating it up too much, and then you ladle the curds out extremely gently into a container and you either press it down with weights if you want it firm or not. Let it uh and that's that's it. So uh you know you can use gypsum, which is I believe calcium sulfate, but I gotta look it up because I didn't look it up beforehand. Uh you you know you can use a gypsum, which is Chinese uh kind of traditional. You can use nigari, which is kind of Japanese traditional.
+
+[40:00] He claims you can use seawater, although I've never had luck doing it. Uh and I know you can use Epsom salts because that's the one I use most often. But it very simple to do and definitely worthwhile. Um just don't soak the hell out of it in water, which is how you ruin that stuff. Um wait a minute.
+
+[40:16] Good. Alright. Um I want some of that tofu soup now. That stuff is so good. It's like never been pressed, it's just like the clouds of tofu after it's coagulate, it'll ladled out and put in the soup.
+
+[40:27] Uh-huh. I don't know what it's called in uh Korean though. I'll I'll figure it out. I'll ask I'll ask someone uh who knows. Okay.
+
+[40:35] Uh Matt writes in uh hey guys, I need to make a no sugar added sorbet. For instance, I'd like to make a sour lemon sorbet. How would I go about that? Some online research turned up some vague ideas like using gelatin, alcohol, guar gum, and some other things to stop it from freezing solid, but I haven't found anything concrete. Any ideas?
+
+[40:55] Okay. Yeah. So all of those things, yeah. None of those things are going to do exactly what you want sugar to do. So the question, Matt, is do you want to have no sugar for a flavor point, or is it because there is a dietary restriction involved?
+
+[41:13] See, alcohol is going to lower the freezing point of your of your of your product straight up. It will. But if you've ever tried to freeze high alcohol stuff, it doesn't um it doesn't modify the texture in the same way that uh sugar does. So the product it like is gonna it's not gonna have the same texture as if it was done with sugar. Now, if you used alcohol and then maybe added some something like a stabilizer and make it gummy, like a gelatin or a guar, then maybe you can get it approximating what a uh you know, a real real sorbet is gonna be, but it's never gonna be quite the same because sugar you know um has very good texturizing properties.
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+[41:55] Now what you can do if you want it to be very like fairly unsweet is to use a much lower uh sweetening power sugar. Okay. Now uh I haven't actually had uh I I I don't I haven't used that much. Paul Librand, I don't know if you still use it, used to use a product called Lightes. I don't even know if it's still available, but it's a sugar that has absolutely it's a sugar substitute, I forget how they make it, has absolutely no sweetness.
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+[42:21] It's dead unsweet. But you can get uh glucose syrups that are fairly low in sweetness, um very, very low sweetness, that have a high solids content and have good water binding capacity, which is what you want here. You want to jack the solids, you want to uh bind some of the water and you want to decrease the freezing point of the liquid. So if you if you were to use like some alcohol, maybe maybe add some jelly, but then use uh you know like a very uh low uh DE uh that's dexterous equivalent like uh like 42 or lower glucose syrup which has fairly low DE that's not sweet you can um get a very unsweet thing it's no one would recognize it as being sweet like a sweet um dessert thing but you you can um you know you can not not have some problems of having a bad texture so you know Nils used to do at Aka Viet a a goat cheese uh ice cream that was I believe he used like a 42 DE or glucose syrup uh in conjunction with a locust bean gum and then and then like those two things together could get the texture that you want even though the sugar level is somewhat reduced and that thing was not sweet at all. It tasted like uh like goat cheese.
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+[43:39] You know what I'm saying? So I think you want to go uh something something like that. But you're gonna need to jack the solids, especially on a sorbet where you don't have like milk proteins and things like that to to round it up. What do you think? Yeah, yeah, yeah.
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+[43:51] She's like, yeah, whatever, whatever. Don't care. Hey, were there any questions I need I missed from last time? No. I got them all?
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+[43:56] Yeah, it was only six. Really? Mm-hmm. Remember you commented, I was like, because it's Labor Day. Uh yeah, yeah.
+
+[43:59] All right. Um Christian from Michigan writes in. Uh I have a couple questions for you this week. I was hoping you could clarify a few things for me. You use low temperature cooking and sous vide as very different descriptions of cooking methods, and I'm curious as to how you make the distinction.
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+[44:17] Is it strictly that under vacuum constitutes sous vide while everything else is low temp? Yes. I mean, look, so very simply, Sous vide means uh uh in a vacuum. So Sous vide techniques include uh cooking techniques, they include preservation techniques, they include um you know infusion techniques, texture modification techniques. Anything that involves a vacuum uh is sous vide.
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+[44:44] It well we we not 100%. We really mean in vacuum bags or using a vacuum machine. So like vacuum distillation, they don't really consider a sous vide technique. But it means under a vacuum. Low temperature, right, is any time you're controlling the temperature that you're cooking with so accurately that you're that the cooking medium, whether it be oil or water or moist air, is very close to the temperature you want to cook to.
+
+[45:07] So low temperature requires um very accurate temperature control and an environment like oil, water, or uh you know, 100% humidity uh air that can accurately transmit um uh a temperature, right? So dry air doesn't work because you can't control the temperature of the products you're cooking because with dry air you get evaporative cooling, right? You can't control it, so you can't do low temperature cooking that way. Low temperature cooking is about temperature control. Um whereas in vacuum, you know, sous-vid cooking, you could use wild wildly unregulated heat source, right?
+
+[45:40] You could use boiling water, which is actually is regulated, but it's very high, or any temperature in between, you don't need to cook it to the temperature you want to cook your product to. So they're very, very different. Now, vacuum bagging sous- vide is very useful technique for doing low temperature cooking, but many things that you cook low temperature you don't cook in a vacuum bag. Eggs, for instance, are not cooked in a vacuum bag. You can do uh old style confie in a combi oven low temp and not, although I prefer com confid traditional temperatures, uh, without a vacuum bag.
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+[46:12] And the reason to separate the two is not just because they are different, is uh because there are, especially in professional um professional arenas, there are um uh rules that pertain to using modified atmosphere packaging because when you remove oxygen, you uh increase the risk for growing um uh anaerobic uh spore-forming bacteria like botulism and that that and prevent uh spoilage bacteria from letting you know things have gone south. So, in a professional environment, there's all kinds of rules when you're using modified atmosphere packaging and sous vide that don't attain when you're using um low temperature cooking. So I like to maintain a bright line just because you know, in the years that I was training chefs to use this thing, it was very important that they make that distinction because it could be a big problem when the health inspector comes in and they don't know how to accurately talk about the difference between modified atmosphere, which has the extra theoretically the extra risks of um of having no oxygen, versus low temperature, which doesn't necessarily have those risks. Uh so that you know that's very important. Um and the in and the other thing is is that is that they're just freaking different.
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+[47:20] Like why you should think of the you know you should think of the vacuum process as being the vacuum process and all the things that uh attain to the vacuum process, and you should think of the cooking process as the cooking process and all the things that attain from cooking. They're just not the same, you know. Um second question. Uh when we're uh talk about creating fat powders, we generally talk about liquid oils or at least rendered fats. Aside from using avocado oil, is there enough fat or a method of manipulation in an avocado to turn it into the powder from the fruit itself?
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+[47:49] Avocado oil lacks a lot of the richness and fruit flavor that I'm looking to achieve. Yes, it does. Uh thanks for giving me my nerd fix on my long commutes to and from work. I'm often taking notes illegally on my phone while driving. Don't do that.
+
+[48:00] Don't do that. Don't do that. Uh while the real gems of information pop up. Long live nerds. Christian from Michigan, PS.
+
+[48:07] I can relate to your travel stories with regards to knives and electronics. I've given a few workshops uh on Arduino in Canada and always end up at customs fighting deportation as I explain away microcontroller boards, wires, and X-Acto knives while covered in tattoos and looking scruffy. Fun times. Yeah, I've had some airport situations. Okay, avocados.
+
+[48:24] When you're making uh uh powders from um fats, you can use solid fats, solid fats or liquid fats, right? You're using what's called tapioca, uh a specific type of tapioca maltodextrin called ensorbit. Uh and sorbit, uh what is it, M or N my brain just fried. But uh ensorbit is made by the National Starch Corporation, and specifically it is a bulking agent, which has very, very low bulk density, right? Now all starches, I think, if I think about this, but starches uh have uh a helix form, and the outside of the starch is uh uh hydrophilic, and the inside of the starch helix is lipophilic, like fats, which means that fats can insert themselves on the inside of uh the uh of this helix, right?
+
+[49:08] So what happens is uh you take this thing that has an extremely low bulk density, the fat gets stored on the inside of the of these helices for the uh n-sorbit, and because there's no water in the system, the it maintains some of its higher bulk density, and you can make powders out of fats. That's how Nsorbit works. As soon as you add water to NZOBIT, so if I hand you a pound of Nzorbit, right, it's like a giant cube because it weighs almost nothing. So when you um and and even when you add oil, you reduce its its uh you increase its bulk density dramatically. You you know it decreases in size dramatically, the ends orbit.
+
+[49:45] The minute you add any liquid to end zorbit at all, it starts like watering out, right? I mean, you see it. It's like the whole point of it is that when you make these oil powders, you put it in your mouth, the endsorbit goes away, and you're left with the oil, right? So the the question is how much water is there in avocado? And I think there's a substantial amount of uh w water in an avocado, substantial amount of oil, but also substantial amount of water.
+
+[50:10] And so my feeling is that the water content of the avocado is going to be too high to uh uh is gonna be too high to make a powder with nsorbit unless you use a boat ton of it. Um but your results may may uh may vary. You've got to find out, uh we'll find out, you know, so someone will write and be like, I make avocado powder with enzorbit all the time. What are you talking about? Uh but it it I i i I would be I would be careful.
+
+[50:39] I would think that there's much too much water in an avocado get that happen. Speaking of modernist techniques, I forgot back on tofu. Back when I was experimenting with tofu, was prior to this explosion that took place like four or five years ago, where people started making tofu out of everything. Now I tested years ago trying to make like peanut tofu, which was okay, uh, kind of soft, uh different kind different kinds of tofu. But I believe in modernist cuisine there's a bunch of interesting different kinds of tofu like other legume curds.
+
+[51:06] So go look at that for tofu information for non-standard uh tofu information. Um they answered the fat powder thing? All right, all right. Uh see. Okay.
+
+[51:19] I got checking people, make sure I'm not going to miss any of your questions because I think I can actually get them all today. Yes. Alright, we got one last question coming in from James on uh from Bitterroot Montana on Sturgeon. And I'm liking this one. Ready for this?
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+[51:38] Sturgeon, by the way. Uh Stas, you you're you're the half of you that is Russo Ukrainian enjoys uh sturgeon. Yeah. Uh and like Stas, we have a personal story about this one. That they actually, not really, because we never did anything with it.
+
+[51:51] Anyway, Dave and Crew, big fan of the show. We got a sturgeon in yesterday. When I was butchering it, uh, I was looking at the spine and noticed how soft the tissue was inside. I cut off two chunks, split one open lengthwise, and left the other one whole. Salt, oil, and in a uh 450 degree oven, they went for 10 minutes.
+
+[52:07] When they came out, the one that had been split resembled a lobster tail bursting with soft white meat. Like that. You like that sound? Bursting with soft white meat. The texture was soft as a pillow and absolutely delicious.
+
+[52:18] I'm writing to ask if there are any health risks involved that you can think of for clients. I feel fine, but was thinking of anything uh long term. You can never really consume all that much of it. The yield was poor. Also, any ideas for other applications or experiments you could think of that would be fun to try with this ingredient.
+
+[52:34] Uh, James Roundy from Bitterroot, Montana. This is a great question. First of all, I had no idea. Okay, so sturgeon uh paddle fish and a group of other uh fish that are out there are kind of like living dinosaurs. They're there's an old, old style fish.
+
+[52:53] And in fact, they're uh, you know, one of the few few things out there that don't act have a normal spinal cord like most fish have, they have what's called a notochord, right? Because they're super primitive. Uh some people who fish for certain of these things, and I think I'll also like colacancer stuff. I don't know if you can fish for those, call them dino fish. So I had no inclination that there might be a possible problem with uh spinal cord.
+
+[53:19] Uh in fact, not only that, in in in Russia, there's a well where you know they they get the the sturgeon uh from the Caspian to make caviar, there's a well-known delicacy uh called uh Vesiga that is the dried um spinal cord of sturgeon, right? Or sp it's not a spinal cord, excuse me, notochord, right? The dried notochord of the sturgeon. So I read about this, I believe, in the Time Life books. I think I read about them uh in the Russian one, uh this delicacy I wanted to try it, and then Nastasha and I in vain tried to locate some.
+
+[53:53] We bought some sturgeon in hopes that we could get some spine out of it, and they'd already removed it, so we couldn't get anything out of it. Uh but this is a it was a huge delicacy. It was it was uh what they would do is squeeze all of the fluffy stuff out of the middle that you're talking about, and then they would dry it, and then they would chop it up, rec salt, dry it up, reconstitute it, and use it in fancy soups. And uh the one piece of information that's all over the internet about it now that wasn't when we researched it before, was that it was uh part of the last meal served on the Titanic. Uh one of the soups that's one of the last meals in first class had this uh had this ingredient in it.
+
+[54:25] If you want to read a little bit about of it, you can go to uh the animal food resource. This is a Google book. The Animal Food Resources of Different Nations with mentions of some of the special dainties of various people derived from the animal kingdom by Peter Lund Simmons uh from the 1880s. And it's available on the Google books. And at first I thought this is a really charming book because it also has a better description of um the rice bird, the bobble link and how it was used in the US and its similarity to Ordalon.
+
+[54:52] Best description I've read of it so far, including the Market Assistant, which is another great book I read from the 1800s, or the Carolina Rice Kitchen translation by Hess uh or not translation, but you know, reprint anyway. My point is uh interesting book until like until the first chapter is on cannibalism, and they're bust he's busting out so much hardcore racism. I know it's the 1800s and everything, but just makes it so hard. So it starts with saying that luckily for us, and when he says us, of course, he means you know uh uh white European stock. Luckily for us, cannibals don't find the flesh of whites tasty.
+
+[55:28] And I'm not I can't even bring myself to say like who who are esteemed as being the tasty ones, but it's just it's just uh it's uh it's horrible. Anyway, uh but uh good good description of things uh like the the visiga. Now, so yes, Sturgeon uh notocord is and by the way, Stas, we never got to see it because but now there's videos of it on YouTube, people pulling it out. Yeah, and it's like as big around as like uh what what what shape what what am I making here? Maybe it's like half inch across or something like this?
+
+[55:59] Like a jump rope. People use it like a jump rope. It's it's long, and uh here's here's how you get it out. Here's how you get the cord out. So, oh, oh, oh.
+
+[56:08] So the question is, why would you think that this is bad? But then you go online and everyone says that there's all these kind of like tales of how it's toxic, how if you cut it, it'll ruin the meat, and all this other stuff. I found a very old, and I forgot to put the link on a very old uh uh article from um a university on closely related fish, the paddlefish and cleaning it. The issue is this uh in sturgeon meat and in paddlefish meat, you want the white part of the meat and the blood, anything that has blood on it, anything that is connected with the kind of the yellowish stuff around the spine or the blood that's close to the skin surface, anything that's not that white meat is detested by the fishermen that get it because they say it tastes incredibly fishy and that no one will like it. So there's every attempt is made to bleed out a sturgeon or a paddle fish as soon as it's humanly possible and to get as much of the blood out.
+
+[57:02] And the old school people don't say that the stuff is toxic. What they say is that you remove the spinal cord to allow the fish to bleed more effectively and to get more of the blood to drain out. And here's how you do it: you take the tail and you cut around the tail, right? So you cut around the tail without cutting through this notocord, which is like this hard rope, right? Cut almost all the way around it through it.
+
+[57:25] Then uh some people disagree on whether or not you also need to make a mark uh a mark to cut at the head to sever it up the top. People disagree on this. Here's the part that Stas gonna like. You grab the whole fish, which are huge because sturgeons are big, and you grab the tail and you go crack, uh, crack, uh you turn it like 90 degrees each way, and you crack the connections, and then you use the tail as a handle and you pull on it, and you can see the notal cord ripping out of the back of the fish, and it comes out like this weird like piece of intestine with little like bl-da blith blith bl. But it comes out white, so it doesn't have the the blood in it, although I saw a guy do it on a paddle fish and it was a bloody mess.
+
+[57:59] But you pull it out, right, and that was done to uh increase the s the speed at which you get the blood out. The modern uh sturgeon filleting technique that I saw from these guys in Oregon, they're super fast and they they don't deal with the spinal cord at all. In fact, they this one guy doesn't even end up gutting it, he just cuts the fillets off without ever gutting it, and then just throws the whole head and the tail in. But he's missing out on taking the this spinal cord. Now, again, I don't know about the goop in the in the middle, and there are some people who are using um uh extracts of sturgeon notochord for medical purposes, but I didn't get a chance to wade through the patents on that.
+
+[58:38] But spinal cord is used in the past as a very high-end food stuff. Uh, and everything I can read says that the removal of the spinal cord was just a uh a technique to make sure that you get the blood out to increase the quality of the meat because nobody likes fishy tasting sturgeon. And I encourage everyone to go look at the crazy videos of people pulling the now. Listen, I don't want to hear anything. There are varieties of sturgeon out there that can be responsibly farmed, they're controlled by fisheries.
+
+[59:03] So I'm not advocating taking uh you know a beautiful amazing fish that's close to extinction and overfishing it anymore. That but I'm not, but but go look at some of these crazy videos of people pulling the notocords out of paddle paddle fish and uh and sturgeons, it's it's bananas. Anyway, cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on heritage radio network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[59:39] You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritageradio network dot org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Underground Meats, an American producer of handcrafted salami and cured meats in Madison, Wisconsin. For more information, visit shop.undergroundfoodcollective.org or stop by their butcher shop in Madison, Wisconsin. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org with thousands more. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:33] This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from Roberta's Pizzeria in the back of uh no, well, we're in the back of Roberta's. We're in Bushwick. Kind of the back of Bushwick, too, though, right? Pretty much. Kind of like the butt end of Bushwick.
+
+[0:47] Oh, really? You think that this is the front end of Bushwick? I think people who actually live in Bushwick might disagree. I don't know. I live here.
+
+[0:54] You live in industrial Bushwick or you live in Bushwick Bushwick. I live in Bushwick Bushwick, like by the park. Yeah, but I mean This is like East Industrial Williamsburg Park. Stuff. Yeah.
+
+[1:06] Well, Bushwick sounds a little more catchy than that, right? Bushwick. Uh joined as usual with Nastasha the Hammer Lupit. How are you doing, Styles? Good.
+
+[1:13] Yeah. Jack and Joe in the engineering booth. Hey guys. How's the wine? Great.
+
+[1:17] Uh it's good. You want to tell us what uh what you've gave uh given us to drink? I wish I could. Wow. Yeah.
+
+[1:23] Well, it's some form of oxidized wine that Nastasha, by the way, here's something for all you people that she actually enjoys. She likes uh various varieties of oxidized wine products. Hey, look at that. I didn't even know. Like, are you a big sherry fan?
+
+[1:35] Not not really. I didn't I think it has something to do with the color. I like the orange color. I like the the weird taste. That sounds like you.
+
+[1:43] Alright. So uh listen, this is a actually, uh, a real coincidence. I don't want people to think that uh I'm shilling out for uh sponsors here, because I had no idea Underground meats was uh is this the first time they're sponsoring us? Uh first or second. I think maybe once or twice before, but he was here recently.
+
+[1:58] Cool dude. Nice. Well, anyway, turns out the guys from uh Underground Meets in uh Mad Town, as I guess they like to call it, the cheesehead, cheesehead folks. Uh you know, Pete have you ever met you know you ever hung out with people from uh Madison, Wisconsin? I mean, just Johnny Hunter from Underground Meets.
+
+[2:14] But like in here's the thing about Madison, Wisconsin. I've uh I've I think I went once when I was a little kid because I used to go to uh Oshkosh for the fly-in, you know, the with the EAA flying. Yeah. But uh people from Madison freaking love it. Like everyone that went to school up there, everyone they just they freaking love it.
+
+[2:29] You ever meet someone from Madison who's like, yeah, man, Madison. Everybody I know from Madison is obsessed with a card game called Sheep's Head. Like Sheep's Head Bay, but not Sheep's Head Bay. It's a card game. And whenever Madison people get together, they play Sheep's Head.
+
+[2:46] What's it based on? Is it a trick-based game? No, I can't even really ex describe it because I always lose because I don't know how to play because I'm not from Madison. Does it involve cheese or beer? Well, I'm sure.
+
+[2:56] Yeah. Yeah. Well, anyway, uh so uh back to what we were talking about. Turns out the Underground uh Meets, by the way, which is part of a larger thing of Majig called the Underground Food Collective that's going on there in uh in Madison, right? They have a Kickstarter, and I read about it, it's actually quite uh an interesting Kickstarter, so uh just uh talk about here.
+
+[3:15] First you want to search on uh go on and go to Kickstarter.com or anywhere, I guess, the Google, uh and uh search for uh underground uh underground meets and then Kickstarter and you'll you'll get it right away. And uh it's very interesting. Here's the thing. They have a um they have a uh the right to sell their cured meats and charcuterie on a state level, right? They have Wisconsin state approval, but they want to get USDA approval so that they can sell across state lines, so they can get approved to sell across state lines.
+
+[3:44] In order to do that, you need to have what's called a validated HACC plans. Now, for you guys that uh don't know what a HACC plan is, HACCP stands for hazard analysis critical control points. And it's the fundamental core. Oh, by the way, calling your questions two, 7184972128, that's 74972128 back to HACCP. So HACCP is uh it's the core of food safety in uh the United States and actually in other countries as well.
+
+[4:09] And it was originally designed um for the space program, at least this is my my interpretation of it. You know, the space program, they when they were doing that, they realized that uh, you know, if an astronaut got food poisoned in space, it could be it could have some serious, serious, serious consequences. So, you know, you don't want the astronauts to get the runs in space because how you gonna hold that stuff in? Just kidding, that's not really why. But they still wanted to be sick in space.
+
+[4:32] So they wanted to have a zero tolerance policy on uh foodborne uh illness in in space, and so they applied a lot of the same uh verification and checking techniques uh to the food that was going into the space program as was going into the individual components, the switches, the wires, the you know, the materials that were in the spacecraft themselves. So large companies figured out a way to uh in essence, as best you can guarantee food safety. So big, big companies were involved in this program, ones like Pillsbury, uh, but it just became the over overarching way that we uh do food safety in the US. And what it stands for is hazard analysis. You first have to analyze the hazards, and a hazard can be anything from maybe some person was uh picking fruit in a field somewhere and their ring fell off.
+
+[5:20] And their ring fell off into uh this has happened to me. Not while I was picking fruit, but while I was washing a dishes one. Your ring falls off, and then it ends up in the basket of uh of fruit and the thing, and then it ends up in your equipment, and then somehow ends up in your food, and then you chew on the ring, and you know, lo and behold, you crack your tooth. Well, that's a hazard, right? So you've analyzed that hazard.
+
+[5:40] Uh and those hazards can be anything from things like actual foreign object damage, stuff like that, foreign objects, to uh adult like deliberate adulteration by things like terrorists, which is why a lot of the hassle also got a big boost in terms of uh traceability uh after 9-11. Uh to uh destroying uh pathogens to ensuring the cold train, all of these things are analyzing where there can be possible hazards within uh this the the food chain all the way from the where the raw ingredient was produced until the consumer puts it in their mouth. Uh right? Okay. Now the the that's only the first part.
+
+[6:16] You have to analyze the hazards, hazard analysis. Now you have what's called critical control point. You say, okay, I know there's a hazard. You know, person might drop their ring into the basket of fruit that they're picking. Now you have to have a control point.
+
+[6:28] Well, so how am I going to control to make sure that uh the ring doesn't make it into the apple pie? Well, uh, let's say I put a metal detector at the front of the uh factory. When the apples come in, all the apples go through a metal detector, and if there's any metal, we make sure we take it out. That's a control point. Now, I guess they wanted a catchy thing, so they called it HACCP because there's actually a third and very important part to HACCP, and that's verification.
+
+[6:51] You have to have log books and you have to be able to verify that you've checked and verify that your control points are adequately monitoring uh uh your products to ensure that they're safe. Hazard analysis, critical control point, and verification, right? HACCP. Now, uh, you know, it's these are things that are done, for instance, modified HACCP plans, simple HACCP plans are put in place all the time. And restaurants, for instance, here in New York, uh, for uh sous vide cooking, but also it's used in a much more kind of uh screwed down, tightened down, buttoned-down way industrially by everyone who's a commercial food producer now.
+
+[7:24] The issue if you're gonna get a USDA approval to do something like charcuterie is you need what's called a validated Hasset plan, right? And what a validated Hasset plan is not only that you shown in theory that you have uh analyzed all the hazards and that you have chosen the correct critical control points and that you are verifying properly. You have to then prove it with an outside third-party source, and that costs money. Now, let me just show you something. Uh, there's uh there's an article, Jonathan Hunter from uh from the uh Underground Food Collective, did an interview on foodsafety news.com uh about this Kickstarter they're doing.
+
+[7:58] So what these guys are trying to do is they're trying to raise 40 grand, right? If they raise the 40 grand, they can hire the outside sources to do the microbiology and to do all the things to prove that the techniques that they're writing down uh for curing meats do in fact kill pathogens, right? They're gonna, I'm presumably they're gonna measure uh the salt content, the pH. I don't know if they're gonna measure water activity or what, but they're gonna they're gonna verify that the techniques and tools that they use to verify safety for the salumi products that they're making, they're gonna verify that those things are in fact safe. And then they have to you pay someone to verify that for them.
+
+[8:29] So here's a comment by by someone named JT on the internet uh on the article on food safety. And I'm mentioning this because it's like classic people who make comments on the internet, presumably in their pajamas late at night while they're while they're sipping on on their on their last glass of wine before they hit the bed or while they're watching Cherry Springer, they think that they can make a comment that it is useful. So here's what JT said, and I'm only saying this because I want people to know uh kind of where this kind of comment goes wrong, so that you don't think the same way. Because what these guys are doing, they're asking for 40 grand, they're going to have their own uh validated HACCP plan, but then I forgot to mention this, I should have said this right at the outset. What they're gonna do is take this HACCP plan and then publish it so that anyone who uses the same procedures and same equipment can then use that same HACCP plan without having to shell out 40 grand.
+
+[9:14] They're trying to make an open source kind of uh validated HACCP plan. That's the concept. Okay, look. So JT writes in incorrectly. If you understand, this is about like why like I'll paraphrase JT.
+
+[9:25] What do you need a what do you need 40 grand for a HACC plan to hire someone else to do a HACCP plan for? That's how I imagine JT talks. Because he says, if you understand your processes and how to make them safe and clean, then you should really be able to develop your own HACCP plan based on the numerous guides and templates that already exist. See already a like a lack of understanding. Yeah, you could have a template for a theoretical HACCP plan, but you need a verified HACCP plan for specific procedures, especially something like Salumi, where you're dealing with multifactorial barriers to killing uh uh bacteria and pathogens, like uh water activity, salt content, pH, all intertwined and time, whatever.
+
+[10:00] Anyway, so uh you should really be able to develop your own HACC plan based on the numerous guys and templates that already exist. If you need to hire a third party to develop your HACC plan, forget that you need to, because you need to prove it. Not only do you need to provide the actual scientific, you can go anyone who cares to can go on the FSIS, which is whatever it is, food safety inspection services, whatever website, and read what's required to get a validated HACCP plan. Because it's right there on the thing. Uh and uh, you know, it's the URL is too long to read, but they they have it there.
+
+[10:29] It's first you have to get your own uh scientific uh bolstering facts, right, from actual scientific literature literature. And if that doesn't exist, which thankfully it does in this case, but if that doesn't exist, you have to provide it. And then you have to do that and in practice prove that your tech specific techniques work. Anyway, so uh if you need to hire a third party to develop your HACC plan, then you probably should not be in the business you're in because that means you are highly ignorant about how to safely produce your products, or JT, you were highly ignorant about regulation. Uh so please go check out uh their Kickstarter.
+
+[11:01] And remember, if you enjoy uh the ability for small producers who cannot afford to have a validated hasset plan, if you would enjoy to have more of those people around in our country making delicious products or at least making products that they believe in. If you support people doing what they believe in, then you should go take a look at this Kickstarter. What do you think? Good. Yeah.
+
+[11:21] Okay. Was he talking about that on the on the on the program, Jack? Uh yeah, we did. We did a short piece with him that I think will debut soon on the whole issue of breaking down HACCP and everything. Yeah, I mean, I hope well, I hope uh what I just said put uh jives what he said because that kind of said off the top of my head.
+
+[11:38] But remember, you only got 22 days to donate to that Kickstarter. And they send you salami if you do. Cool. Anyways. Okay.
+
+[11:45] Uh got some questions in. Um now, Steven, Steven Benziger wrote in uh earlier and he says that, hey, I asked you called last week about transglutaminase and hydrocolloid polymerization resources to post, but I can't remember for the life of me what I said I was gonna post. Can anyone remember what the heck I said I was gonna post? Someone like Stephen, tweet in to me and tell me exactly what I said I was gonna post, and I'll make sure that I do it. Because you gotta remember, like my mind uh totally like goes blank, Fritz's and runs with me.
+
+[12:15] You sure it wasn't from two weeks ago? It was many weeks ago if this because this email was lost, so it was many weeks ago. No, there were no calls last week. Oh, who's Dino. Yeah.
+
+[12:24] All right. Uh anyway, so Steven was also curious about some foods that he can circulate and refrigerate for long periods of time. Being a medical student, uh, he says, I like to cook on week, hope to cook on weekends and reheat them before or at school. Thanks. Uh okay, well, there are a lot of products that you can in fact, like one of the main benefits of uh now let's go sous vide in particular, of sous vide cooking is you can pre-circulate a lot of your stuff and then just uh re-therm it.
+
+[12:51] You know, remember you can't this is another one of the bizarre things. You can't say reheat because reheat is a technical term. You can say it at home, it doesn't matter. But like it in like in professionally, if you say reheat, you have to reheat it to a pathogen-killing uh temperature. Whereas if you've pasteurized your product and kept it uh you know properly cold during the thing, then you only have to re-thermalize it, which means you can heat up to any temperature you want.
+
+[13:14] Uh okay, so uh most things are possible to do this way. The only thing that you can't really do are things that you can't pasteurize. If you're gonna if you're gonna heat something in a bag, right, and in this in when you're doing this, you're gonna keep something for a long time. It's advisable to actually vacuum bag it because when you do things like zippies, there's some in it's some oxygen on the inside. And if you're doing uh foods that have or that are prone to oxidation, like meats, especially meats tend to oxidize on reheating.
+
+[13:42] It's called warmed over flavor. If you have uh problem thing, you know, products like that, it behooves you to get rid of the oxygen in there so that you don't have those sorts of issues on retherm, that you don't have kind of oxidized off flavors, not dangers, just off flavors. So you probably want to invest in a vacuum bag in a situation like that. And you want to make sure if you're gonna keep stuff for a long time that you pasteurize the products that you put in, right? Because if you don't pasteurize them, if you're just heating them to a point where uh, you know, maybe you like the way they taste, but you've left bacteria, you could be put in a situation where you actually have incubated a certain portion of the bacteria and cause it to be less safe.
+
+[14:17] Possible. I mean, not likely, but possible. So you want to choose things that you can pasteurize. What does that mean? Don't do fish.
+
+[14:23] Most fish can't be adequately pasteurized in a vacuum bag because you're gonna have to cook it for too high or for too long to get uh good pasteurization such that you can safely cool it and then retherm it again later. Almost anything, if you pasteurize it properly, can be kept in uh your fridge for a week and then eaten uh later with no ill effects. Now, uh commercially, there is data that some people have gotten things to grow uh in vacuum bags uh uh you know at temperatures um between 38 Fahrenheit and 40 Fahrenheit in that range. And so we actually have to keep uh, you know, if you're gonna store stuff for a week commercially, at least in New York, I don't know federally yet, uh, because it's been a while since I've read this stuff, you actually have to keep your products below 40 degrees. Uh I mean it's it's been a while, but I think the number is somewhere like 38 or uh or maybe even 34.
+
+[15:15] I gotta look it up. If you want to keep it for uh a full week, otherwise, you know, you have a shorter window to keep it. However, uh in the reality, if you do uh adequate pasteurization and you cool the stuff down uh rapidly enough, you know, you're not gonna get um you're not gonna get in in in most real-world situations any sort of bacterial growth on the inside of that bag within that one week time, you know, within the within the Monday to Friday window if you're cooking on a Saturday or Sunday and you're gonna eat it before uh a Monday or a Friday. Just make sure that you adequately pasteurize everything. That's all.
+
+[15:49] Yeah, yeah. She said it just so I just so I like so that I'll be quiet and move on to something. So they I know Stai, I know you so well. She's like, you just be quiet about the about the safety stuff. She says like, Sus doesn't care, Stoz.
+
+[15:59] Well uh you care about safety somewhat. I do. I do. Yeah. Not my safety.
+
+[16:04] No. No. No. Alright. And with that, why don't we take our first commercial break?
+
+[16:08] Coming back with cooking issues. Underground Meats is an American producer of handcrafted salami and cured meats in Madison, Wisconsin. They use small farms from southwest Wisconsin to source their meat. The animals are raised on pasture for their entire lives by farmers who care about animal welfare. While Underground Meats uses European traditions, they also use ingredients from the upper midwest to try to create new types of salamis, experimenting with both ingredients and techniques.
+
+[16:51] The salamis are made using heritage breeds, mostly red wattles, tamworts, Berkshires, and Mule Foots. Try their award-winning cured pork shoulder and goat salami. To learn more and purchase products, visit shop dot underground food collective.org or stop by their butcher shop in Madison, Wisconsin. And welcome back. What's up, Sas?
+
+[17:21] Oh, I thought they were gonna do another commercial. Nope, they're not. It's just us. Nice, right? Okay.
+
+[17:25] Uh although we don't we don't mind the commercials. We like we like commercials. Kinda, right? Okay. Um Lucas writes in who we met.
+
+[17:36] Pretty sure it's the same Lucas that we met at the uh at the at the we first met him at the Kickstarter launch party and then at the um at the puffing gun party that we had, which was a good party. Yeah. Good party. That was a good party. Okay.
+
+[17:44] Uh I believe I believe this is same Lucas, although I'm not sure. Hey hi Dave, Anastasia, Jack, and Joe. Uh I went to El Kalarkan Roca, but by the way, you know, was named, was it last year or a couple years ago, like the best restaurant in the world? Like, you know, it's the ro it's the Roca family. And I've never by who.
+
+[18:06] What? Who said it was the best? It's one of those pelegrin. You know, I hate first of all, like we say this again. I I'll say this again, although, you know, if if you've met me, I've you've heard me say this a million times.
+
+[18:14] The idea of the best restaurant's the most ridiculous thing in in the world. Yeah. I mean, there actually that's not true. There are more ridiculous things. Like, you know, I don't know, like the Syrian government didn't do that uh chemical attack.
+
+[18:26] That's more ridiculous. But like like bad, like like like best restaurant is just a silly concept. Because what does that mean? Do you want to go out to uh you know a three Michelin star meal every night? No.
+
+[18:38] No. Hell no, right? So like it the it's like the best restaurant on any particular night. I mean, I don't know. It's like but uh that said, uh it's one of the restaurants in the world, one of the, you know, I would say top three restaurants in the world that I want to go to that I haven't been to.
+
+[18:54] Okay. Hey guys, Piper's on the line. Oh, Piper? All right. Well, let me h make make them hold.
+
+[19:00] Boom. Boom. Oh, yeah. All right, now we'll take Piper now and we'll come back to El Kalar, Ken Rogan. I just wanted to be hey Piper.
+
+[19:09] Good. How you doing? Pretty good. So we had a question a couple of weeks ago, and I promised that I would get you uh on the line to talk about it. And it has to do with uh puddings.
+
+[19:21] And I know that you're a pudding head, and so uh you you know by the way, Piper works with us at uh Booker and Dax Equipment Corporation and uh worked for a while um doing research food research technical stuff for CP Kelco the manufacturers of such fine products as gelan and uh a lot of the high grade pectins that you buy and they also make uh what else they make like clear locust bean what do they make clear locust bean gum uh they do carrageenin's gants and gum yeah and uh they have locust bean gum yeah well they need the clear locust bean gum so that they can make their fake gelatin stuff with carrageenan because everyone if you want to do a uh uh a vegetarian uh fake gelatin like one of the classic ones is a mixture of kappa carry uh carragen well mostly kappa carragen and locust bean gum to kind of soften to soften the texture of a little bit so it's not so brittle but if you want to replace gelatin it has to be fairly clear so regular locust bean gum which is cloudy doesn't make a good gelatin replacer so CP coco has to make this expensive clear locust bean gum that would you say it's accurate? Yeah that's right yeah so um anywho so uh I forget who it was but uh gentleman called in a couple weeks ago and said he was having problems with the texture of his puddings and he was doing kind of classic cornstarch based puddings and I knew that you would be making the Piper version of the Nastasha vegan face for not using uh some sort of better pudding technology so what's and I said I would find out what Piper's favorite pudding technology is so go. Well I mean it really depends on what he has at hand to uh like we just had cornstarch you know what I like to do is uh an iota heavy iota kappa carragenin blend. Sorry, iota kappa and uh locust bean blend. So like depending on firmness, like 0.3 iota, 0.1 kappa, and then five locene gum, just for some resist.
+
+[21:20] All right, hold on a second. So you say point what on the uh iota? I like to do about 0.3. Right. Now do you now uh have you had any experience with the readily available uh carrageenan blends?
+
+[21:30] Because something something people don't really understand in general is that hydrocolloids like carrageenans are uh carrageenans are uh gotten from seaweeds, and all all of the carragenas are from the similar varieties of seaweeds, but there's no such thing as pure kappa or pure iota or pure lambda carrageenin. Carragenins, because of the result of uh kind of you know, refining and purifying a natural seaweed product, are all kind of shotgun mixtures, and each manufacturer standardizes a particular carrageenin blend for a particular uh application. So one iota is not the same as uh another iota, one kappa is not the same as another kappa, right? They may have a different blend of uh caragenins, they might have uh di uh hydrocolides come in differing uh polymerization lengths, how long the uh how long the actual polysaccharides are that are in them, and so they have different ranges. But have you found that like the various iodas that are available uh uh for people to purchase are roughly similar in their action here, or do you have a particular brand that you like to use that is available to humans?
+
+[22:30] The textures is is pretty pretty close to the to the most pure um blends that I've been using from CP Celco. Okay. So you use their iota and their kappa? And you well, you say it works fine, their iota and their kappa. All right.
+
+[22:50] And uh yeah, and terra works good too. Terra Spices, iota, and kappa work fine. Okay. So give those per give those percentages one more, Time? Uh well, this is for like uh cream brulee.
+
+[22:59] Right. Iota, 0.1% kappa, and then 0.05 locust bean gum. Okay. Now, uh folks, just so you know, locust bean gum has to be heated above what? About well, all of those things have to be heated above like 75 C or something like that, right?
+
+[23:21] Yeah. I don't yeah, I don't mind taking it to like eighty. Yeah. But then so you so if you're gonna add something that would otherwise uh not work well at those temperatures, proteins, eggs, stuff like that, you would prehydrate that stuff uh and then temper it back in, right? Because locust bean gum is never gonna set and the carrageenans aren't gonna set until it gets down into the probably like the one thirties Fahrenheit, one twenties Fahrenheit, right?
+
+[23:43] Yeah, and then I mean if you've got cornstarch, you can also I mean you can put that in and that could that would sort of soften the the gel up a little bit. It would interrupt the structure. Right. Well that's also why, you know, Wiley's cornstarches his egg yolks to stop them from setting uh in his uh in his Hollandaise sauce. But I believe that's what he does.
+
+[24:03] Well, he probably uses something more sophisticated, but that'll also stop that'll also buffer the proteins a bit if you add them to the proteins first, right? Yeah, I mean it'll yeah, it'll it'll do a couple of things. I mean it'll it'll also sop up some of your tineres not amazingly well. But what I like to do is do about 10% or maybe like 12% sugar, dry blend on my hydrocolides with that. Um disperse in fifty fifty cream and milk, and then uh eat that to you know roughly eighty five, and then put it in the blender and add uh about what like two egg yolks per 250 milliliters of liquid and then I add that at about like as it's cooling down it helps uh it just helps speed things up and then I just pour it into a setting pan.
+
+[25:01] All right. So now to translate some of the things that Piper just said, he dry blends the hydrocolloids with sugar. Why? Because the main problem uh with using hydrocolid, there's two things you need to do with hydrocolloid. Hydrocolloids swell and clump.
+
+[25:12] So if you want them to work, you have to prevent that. So dry blending with sugar helps to physically separate the particles of the hydrocolloids so that they can be dispersed, right? After he disperses them, he hydrates them by heating, right? And then hydrates them in the closest thing to pure water he has in this case, which is milk and whatever whatever else he's gonna do. And then afterwards, as it's cooling in the blender under high shear, adds things like egg yolks and then allows the product to set.
+
+[25:39] Now if you break down what he is using for the actual hydrocolloid base here, he's using iota carragenin. Iota caragin, and by the way, carrageenin, one of the main things about caragenin that's awesome is it has a synergistic effect with uh milk, meaning it takes a very very small amount of carrageenin to set uh uh milk uh and the advantage of of that is that the smaller amount of a hydrocolloid you use to create a gel the less masking you have of flavor well it's cheaper also but you know it for for most people at home that's not really a concern because the amounts you're using are so small but uh also there's a lot less flavor masking if you're using some much smaller amounts of of hydrocolloids. So iota carrageenin is a kind of rubbery, uh, if you use it a lot of it, kind of rubbery uh and kind of bouncy textured stuff. Uh, but you kind of you know, blowing blowing, blowing, blowing kind of texture, it has an interesting properties. Unlike most other hydrocolloids, it will reform a gel after it has been sheared, which is interesting, right?
+
+[26:40] But it's the soft uh one. Kappa is brittle, more like agar, uh it snaps when you break it in half. So he's doing a mix to uh between iota and kappa to get uh the kind of texture he wants, and then he's adding uh locust bean gum. The locust bean gum is going to do two things. It's gonna soften the kappa a bit, right?
+
+[27:01] And it's also going to stabilize any of the water that's not locked into the carrageenin gel matrix and prevent that water from weeping out. That's when he's saying synoresis. So when you have locust bean gum that you're adding, locust bean gum is preventing the weeping or the synoresis that you often get in gel systems or even in regular pudding systems, if you consider them a gel system. And in fact, that is why you have in most ice creams two stabilizers. It's not that they want to jack everything up, but they have one that's uh doing a mild gelling, right, to prevent crystallization, uh something like carrageenin, and then you have uh something to prevent uh what's called weighoff or synoresis, even at low temperature, of liquids out of the matrix of the ice cream, and that is something like a locust bean gum or a guar.
+
+[27:48] Yes or no? Yeah. All right. And also in physics, people use uh non-baker percentages because it would it would throw off the recipe. You say it say it again?
+
+[28:01] They shouldn't use the baker's percentages, it's um it's uh like absolute percentages. You're talking about when you say, well, so Piper, when Piper, because he worked for CP Cocoa, writes a recipe and he says a percent, he means that uh there is um there is one gram of hydrocolloid in ninety-nine grams of water, and that's one percent. Yeah, but you're talking less than a percent on everything. It's gonna be minimal for this. Well, I mean it it's gonna be minimal plus you've got ten to twelve percent sugar, you know.
+
+[28:33] I it it makes a it makes a difference. With the sugar it does, not with the hydrocolloid though. But the sugar is a as a percentage of the whole, your whole your liquid portion is smaller. I don't know. I'm sorry.
+
+[28:45] Well okay, so so what you're saying is what you're saying is they should figure out what their total weight of their batch is and then do your hydrocolloids based on that. Yeah. Because you haven't calculated a liquid a liquid basis only. Yeah. Well, we should calculate a liquid basis only because no one does that, you know?
+
+[29:05] No one uh I mean uh whenever I write a hydrocolloid recipe, I always try to write the numbers based on percent of water and then try to ignore the sugar stuff. But it it's a really it's a complicated thing and it's a problem. The fact of the matter is if you find a recipe that you like that works, as long as you are consistent in applying that recipe, you're gonna be okay. Piper's method, which is the actual method you use in the in the actual in in in business and industry commercially, is better because if you think about the hydrocolloid to liquid base as being or the hydrocolide to total base and how the sugar interacts with it, it's gonna make it easier for you to make a second and third recipe that don't contain sugar, right? That's the that's that's what you're saying.
+
+[29:47] But it makes it more difficult for someone at home to uh to figure out a like uh uh the recipe in general. Would you say that's accurate, Piper or no? That's true. And it also makes it easier for scaling. What your technique?
+
+[30:02] Yeah, my technique. Yeah. Well, I mean, that's that must be a reason why everyone does it in the real world. But chefs just don't like it. They don't do it.
+
+[30:09] You know? Anyway. Yeah. All right, Pipes. Thanks for calling in.
+
+[30:13] I'll see you in a little bit. Yep, sir. All right. So back to Lucas's problem. Uh I went to El Calar uh Can Roca a couple of months ago and uh really enjoyed it.
+
+[30:23] The problem is that this place is in Spain and not exactly a budget meal. That's true. I hear it's quite expensive. Anyway, uh one of the most impressive things I had there was an oyster with a venison mayo. It was an intense uh an oyster with venison mayo.
+
+[30:37] It was an intense experience. I'm trying to reproduce it, but I have no idea how to infuse so much flavor into the mayo. I can make a quite a strong stock with a pressure cooking using multiple extraction. Typically, uh once you make mayo, you do not add much of any additional liquid. What happens is either I end up with not a very flavorful product or I break the mayo.
+
+[30:55] Do you think they somehow infuse the oil directly or do they make some ultra flavorful stock? I'm trying with duck rather than venison as I don't have venison, but I guess this is not an issue, regards Lucas. Okay. Uh okay, there are there's there's I have some guesses as how you do it. There's there's a couple of ways you can do this.
+
+[31:10] One, you could uh the simplest way, uh the kind of the most bonehead simple way, is to um make a fluid gel, like a gel-an-based fluid gel out of the stock. I know a stock already has gelatin in it, but you make a a fluid gel, right? And then you can mix the fluid gel into the mayonnaise without breaking the mayonnaise because you're not actually adding a liquid to it. You're adding a second solid that has the same consistency as the mayonnaise itself. So it shouldn't dork with the emulsion too much, right?
+
+[31:42] So you're gonna have a mayonnaise and then you're gonna fold into the mayonnaise something with the exact same texture uh as the mayonnaise, but just a fluid gel, okay? Now, uh that's one. Now, the more high-tech way to do it, okay. And if you were gonna do a the fluid gel and you're gonna do a mayonnaise, I'd say with gel and uh let's see, you could do an agar fluid gel, actually. Agar fluid gel will be easier to achieve in terms of stuff you could go out and buy at a store.
+
+[32:06] If you're gonna do an agar fluid gel, it would probably be on the order of 0.9% uh agar. Oh, oh, but agar and gelatin can cause problems sometimes. Hmm. I have to look at it, but gel and should work. But the the the real baller way to do it would be to uh take your venison stock, right, and then get an enzyme, and styles, we've got to find a source of this enzyme.
+
+[32:30] It's like one of my favorite enzymes of all time to use. It's called Coralase. So Coralase is an enzyme that breaks down gelatin. Uh and now the problem with like using, let's say, a meat tenderizer like uh papayan or one of these other things that you can buy uh a meat tenderizer. Meat tenderizer enzymes break down proteins, but they can often break down the proteins into uh bitter polypeptides, okay?
+
+[32:53] And also, I've tested it, they're not as effective as you would like in totally breaking all the gelatin down uh you know as as you want for the application I'm about to tell you. This enzyme Coralase, which breaks down gelatin, is specifically designed or specifically chosen because when it breaks down uh gelatin, it does it in a way that does not create any off-flavors at all. It creates only completely soluble, non-viscous, and tasteless polypeptides, right? So, and this stuff is a miracle. You could take cold st well, cold, I mean, if it's cold, it takes a little longer for it to work, but you could take jellied stock, drip a couple of drops in of coralase into it, and it completely melts the stock down to nothing.
+
+[33:36] So uh it has it has no more body in it, right? Once you destroy the gelatin, you can take uh that stock. You could take uh two liters of stock and reduce it down to a hundred milliliters, and then and it still will not set. It becomes you have to worry about not scorching because it has an incredibly s high solids level just from the uh you know from the from the the solids in it, but it but not gelatin. And so it allows you to get ridiculous reductions uh on that stuff, and then you can incorporate that as a liquid base into mayonnaise without having interfering effects from setting gelatin or any of these other problems or having to add too much, it's gonna break it.
+
+[34:16] And that's the way you know, when I when I had when I back when I had Coralase, when I had some of it, uh that's the way we would do like super strong beef flavored uh drinks. We would make we would break the uh or like very, very concentrated, very concentrated cold consumes that were liquid by breaking the gelatin and then hyper reducing it, and then that you know, you could then probably get a lot of flavor into a mayonnaise without having to resort to something like a fluid gel. But if you want to go out and do it tonight, I would go out and make uh a gel-an uh fluid gel with your venison stock. Uh, you know, first reduce it, make a gel and fluid gel, blend it, and then um and then fold it in. That should that should work.
+
+[34:56] What do you think, Seth? Good job. Again, she's like, I don't care. Just if he asked me, just tell him to stop talking. Hey Dave.
+
+[35:03] Yep. We've had a lot of people kind of tweeting and writing us about 3D printers and asking us to cover that. What do you know about 3D printers and food? Us meaning us or us meaning the greater us? The the greater us, this the station.
+
+[35:14] Uh well, that's an interesting question. Um so the 3D printing of food is something, you know, we we were uh, you know, a number of years ago we were, you know, dealing with uh Cornell with the Fab at home, which is uh uh basically extrusure uh an extruder, right? They were on the Rachel Ray program and we had to run over some syringes because their syringe didn't come through. We still had some syringes left over, so we we brought them over. But uh and Piper and Nastasha wanted to get uh into the studio audience.
+
+[35:45] We wanted to win a cruise. Did anyone that day win a cruise? We never saw the show. So you didn't even look to see whether or not you didn't win a cruise? So you're upset about a cruise that you may or may not have won?
+
+[35:53] Yeah. What? You don't want to know? I don't want to know. No.
+
+[35:57] You don't want to you wait, you don't want to know whether it's I would have fought harder. You take the genre, you're like, okay, here's a question before we get into the printing. So, like the question if you could take a genetic test to to know whether or not you're you're more likely to get a specific disease or not, right? Would you take it? Answer yes, because then you can prevent or do something.
+
+[36:13] So you want to know like the your possible future genetically, but you don't want to know whether or not the cruise was an actual issue? I would have fought harder. Like I paid for this genetic testing. I paid, you know, like I'm doing everything I can. I didn't do everything I could for the Rachel Ray show, possible cruise.
+
+[36:27] So I don't want to know if I could have won. Because you don't want to know that like possible personal weakness cause you to not get a cruise. Right. Fair. Thank you.
+
+[36:34] Fair. Uh so uh back to 3D printing. So we were getting this uh 3D printer uh to work with, and you know, they they the the the the goal, people have this thing in in their heads, and there was a New York Times article on it very recently on printing 3D food. And the goal out there is that somehow, you know, you're gonna print your table and then you're gonna print your your plate and then you're gonna print your food, and then you're just gonna sit down and someone's gonna email you this awesome recipe and it's gonna print out like along with everything. And uh I've never been a fan of this idea ever.
+
+[37:08] I've always thought it was kind of you know not um not what I think cooking is about and not what I think food is about. I think the idea of 3D printing uh architectural units is very interesting because it allows you to do things you couldn't otherwise do. The I the idea of 3D and we use 3D printers when we're designing equipment at Booker and Dax Equipment Corporation. We use 3D printers and we use 3D printing sources to do rapid prototypes. But food isn't about prototyping or about you know short runs of uh something like a facade for an architectural building that you can then create a concrete with a 3D printer in a way you couldn't otherwise do food is about the day in day out creation of something that um that you want to eat and in general like the 3D food technology that's out there right now is all about extruding paste and then setting that paste into something else and there's only so you know so far you can go with the extrusion of different types of paste.
+
+[38:08] I mean it's hard to get all the different textures you want uh hard to get all the different flavors you want I mean it's not I mean if someday they could you know scan a steak and then reproduce it exactly then I don't know maybe but it's just not what I think about when I think of food. I like to think about my food being uh produced I like to think about it growing or being raised I like to think about how it's harvested how it's treated, and none of these things as yet are reducible to pushing a button and printing it out and like not even close. I'm not saying that that won't happen someday, but it's not even in the realm. It's not even in the it's not even in the sphere of what's going on right now. Literally, what's going on right now is paste is being extruded out of tubes into shapes.
+
+[38:51] So it's the it's it's it's like, hey, look, the applications, the the brain dead, what you need applications. Do you want uh uh your scallop paste to look like Mickey Mouse or a space shuttle, or do you want like you know, your boyfriend's head, you know, in hot dog meat. If you want your boyfriend's head in hot dog meat, either to chop it to pieces with a samurai sword or to you know lovingly munch on it, then 3D printing, fantastic. You know what I mean? Because it is great at at reconstructing your boyfriend's head out of hot dog meat.
+
+[39:23] Fantastic at it. There's no better way because unless you're gonna hire an artist to make uh a sculpture, or unless you're gonna mold your boyfriend's head and then jam hot dog meat into it to make a uh a boyfriend uh hot dog head, you know. And by the way, uh, you know, that's assuming that you can stand a skinless wiener because you know I I prefer Frankfurter with a real skin on it. You know what I'm saying? Stas is making some weird faces now.
+
+[39:45] But the uh, because her mind works in in in gross ways. Boyfriend hot dog head face. Yes. Yeah, exactly. Oh, wiener face, oh geez.
+
+[39:54] Uh so the uh by the way, like that. I wish you could, I wish you could put this out there for everyone to know because I'm so sick of you getting these questions about 3D printing. Like we're gonna eat some phenomenal food out of a 3D printer. Which we're not. It's paste.
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+[40:08] It's paste. It's paste. Wow, I love Nastasha finally coming out of it. That's like the first time in three years, I think. So we've been doing this, you know, for four years, I think now.
+
+[40:18] Yeah. Yeah. And nobody has said that it's paste. It's paste. Yeah.
+
+[40:23] Yeah. Paste. And so like, here here's the thing. Here's the thing, right? So we did come up with one thing we liked, which was, you know, what is a novel thing you can do with a 3D printer uh with paste that is hard to otherwise do.
+
+[40:39] And it was this idea that uh, you know, uh Lipton came up with is with the stochastic printing where it's basic where you use you you hold the toothpaste tube, it's not toothpaste tube, but you hold the syringe up high and you let it form a squiggle almost like velcro, and you get these kind of masa squiggles that you know are you know that have they're good because you can fry them and the texture is different from what you would ordinarily get with masa, right? And so I always said that from very get-go. It's like I don't really want to use it unless there's some sort of new uh new texture we can produce or new flavor we can produce with paste. But uh uh another interesting fact, someone uh tweeted in uh maybe it was a couple weeks ago about this. You've you ever heard of you heard of this Beyond Eggs thing?
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+[41:22] No. No? So there's this product out there, and it was funded in part by Gates, it's some kind of silicone valley thing where it's a completely non-eg. It's all plant-based, and it fooled Bill Gates into like to say, oh, it's well, it's just as good as a real egg because it fooled Bill Gates. Now the qu I need to try this myself.
+
+[41:41] Please, someone from California, if you can find a Whole Foods thing, we we love at Booker and Dax to have a sample of Beyond Eggs to see whether or not it's just that Bill Gates has horrible taste buds for eggs or whether or not they were just overcooked or whatever, but apparently, Stas, you can make scrambled eggs out of these, it tastes l like the real legit deal. Since when's Bill Gates like the standard by which we judge these things? That's crazy. Well, because he's got the money to back it up. I see.
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+[42:07] Oh, color, you're on the air. Yeah, hi. I have a s uh sort of a two-part question about live poultry, live poultry markets. Um I recently uh bought a chicken at a live poultry market. It was a label roused chicken, so I think it was by the standards, it's supposed to be somewhat older than the the normal commercial breed.
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+[42:27] And I was just curious if there's just a different approach to d to dealing with live poultry. I'll tell you what I did with it. It was just a standard chicken roasting tech technique. But I after buying it, I assaulted it and then I had read on on the turkey post on cooking issues of the the rigor mortis. So I think I let it sit for about twenty-four hours in the fridge after it had been fairly heavily salted, and then I used the low temperature roasting at about 150 um for about you know two and a half hours to bring it up to about 135 and then finished it in a hot oven after resting to crisp it's crisp it up.
+
+[43:06] I think the the texture was actually a lot chewyer than I expected. And I didn't know if this was was r related to the age of the chicken or cooking techniques with somebody that's been that recently killed, or if you have any thoughts here on on the approach. Well, old old chick old chickens, I mean if it actually is old, like old chickens are they taste better, but they are never gonna be as tender as a young chicken, you know, never. And you know, so that's like you you know, when you go to, you know, other countries that you know, as their standard chicken and things like stews and whatnot have older uh older birds, they're just not tender. And you just have to like kind of get past the American ideal that chicken is supposed to be tender.
+
+[43:52] Now that said, uh when you c now we've when you before you cooked it, did you grab the legs and move them around? Had they had they loosened up? Had they limbered? You know, I cut off the legs w right when I got it home. So um but just I mean the the the feet, sorry.
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+[44:10] I think I I they wouldn't feel but the legs it didn't feel any any any different than I I'm used to. And most of the poultry I buy is in in Chinatown markets that presumably is you know somewhat more recently killed than stuff you have in the supermarket, but I'm not I'm not you know it didn't feel any different to me in that respect. Right. I mean I've purchased uh I've purchased poultry at the live market and then let it rest overnight and had it be tough as nails, right? On things like duck.
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+[44:40] But I think a lot was the you know, also the breed of duck that I uh I was getting. Um and you know, my the main reason I go to live poultry now isn't for chickens because I'll just get that there there are you know suppliers that I like and trust that have good chickens, but I'll go for the turkeys um, especially before I had the good contacts here at Heritage Foods, I would go for the turkeys um to get them, and I would let them rest a couple of days probably. Although, you know, supposedly overnight, but like uh you know, I I think it's probably a combination. I think maybe you could have gone a little bit longer. Um I also don't know, and this is an interesting question, uh I don't know the effects of salting during rigor as opposed to salting after rigor.
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+[45:25] I don't know, I have no idea. Like literally uh literally I have no concept of the this this this place has a uh buy ten chickens, get one free, so it sort of encourages you to do these sort of side by side experiments. Uh um the second question is is just related to the the the killing method. I was just was also reading about the Ikajime and I was just wondering has anyone done this sort of cr uh um flesh comparison with different chicken killing methods. I I I'm I I should I should should back up to say too I'm just looking at a Wikipedia entry for Mike the Headless Chicken and there was this chicken that in the 40s uh was decapitated but somehow survived for years.
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+[46:06] So it was reminding me of reading about Ikojima and wondering if you know there's there's there's a comparative uh study of of of killing methods on on on poultry. There's not to my knowledge. I am familiar with Mike the headless chicken which interesting story the guy chopped the head uh well thought he chopped the head off of the uh chicken, let it run around like a chicken with its head cut off, and then came back and the sucker was still moving like a long time later and then it turns out that he had left a certain portion of the brain stem in and he had would feed Mike by shoving shoving uh grain into its you know into its like open throat hole and the sucker lived for a while Mike the headless chicken so that basic you know what what started as an incompetent slaughter made this farmer like a good chunk of change. You can go but they you know what's disappointing about Mike the Headless Chicken is that there's no really really good photos of Mike the headless chicken, right? Yeah you notice that it's like there's some but there's nothing like no close ups of where the head used to whatever it's hard to tell from from the photo where how exactly it was decapitated.
+
+[47:12] Yeah I think the guy hit it at an angle because like you can see it's like a little bit higher up in the back, and like that's what allowed the portion of the brain stem that controls kind of the heart regulation and peristalsis in the system to keep going. But uh back to the actual question. I don't think that the studies have been um done on on that. It's been a long time since I've read up on um poultry slaughter. Most of the data out there on most animals shows that um uh pre-slaughter stress is bad for meat quality.
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+[47:39] But I've read more stuff on for you know, obviously in in pork it's a huge issue with pig slaughter and um cows, and I've obviously done a lot of work with fish on that. But the specific reasons why um fish tastes or i is has better texture as a result of the specialized um killing techniques is because hard rigor in a fish uh leads to c mushy uh fillets and to into bad texture, especially for um you know sushi sashimi applications. So I don't know uh, you know, whether I don't know what the effects are of, for instance, preserving the ATP reserves of chicken muscle. Now, you know, aside from that, you you know, there's probably all sorts of you know uh awful things that get injected into a chicken system if it's freaked out right before it gets um slaughtered, right? So there's certain things going on and you know, if for a number of years I have had in my head um different tests to be able to do on this, but it it gets it gets dicey when when you're doing slaughter tests on fish, people don't seem to mind as soon as you move to uh you know higher creatures like bird well what perceived higher creatures like birds, or even you know, God forbid, into the range of mammals that are eaten for food.
+
+[49:00] People people um people look at any sort of uh experiments like that as being somehow like horrible and when in fact you're just trying to make it more humane. You're just trying to do better. You know what I mean? Yeah, and I think I think the the certified humane stuff that they they sell in in supermarkets they use they they knock them out first. I didn't I didn't have time to to look it up extensively.
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+[49:24] But you know that would definitely be different from a live poultry market where I think they're they're bleeding it out through the through the neck which you know not chopping its head off. Well I mean every lot every time I've been to the live poultry market what they do is they take especially big birds, they tie them by the feet and let them hang upside down alive, flapping freaked out to figure out how much they weigh then they take the bird, you know put it down, chop its head off and go. I mean that's pretty much that's you know that's how and I and I think that's pretty much you know the de regur method of doing it. Like uh and so yeah they're not doing any uh I mean at least the places I've been I you know I didn't see any electrostunning equipment let's put it that way. Um you know whereas I think it could probably commercially electrostunning is the is the way to go on uh on on chicken slaughter.
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+[50:11] Did you see any electrostunning w where you were I don't think that they do that at the at the live poultry joints. No this this place I think it was I got the head on too so it was Chinese style but I think they do all they much of their business is halal so I don't know the details of halal slaughter but it seemed to be that that that a lot of their meat was default halal unless you know you had some special method just because so much of their customer base was what were were were people seeking halal meat. Right. So that would and I think that's that that that is bleeding bleeding it out to the neck. So which sounds especially cruel now that I think about it well yeah, so if halal I mean I I uh I've never done a as much as I should research on halal techniques, but if my memory serves, kosher slaughter techniques would dictate that the animal is conscious, right?
+
+[50:56] To prove that it's all intact and everything, and then humanely slaughtered with a cli quick slice to the throat, which would mean that there is no stunning involved. 'Cause that would compromise the animal prior to the slaughter. So um my guess would be that yeah, there's no form of stunning involved there. Yeah, and then uh then f finally, I was just uh y with with uh Chinese dishes when you see fresh killed chicken and I think some Korean restaurants are you know, they're advertising this too. Do you think that that is is is pre-rigor flesh that they can actually 'cause uh apparently the place that I went to, which is in Bensonhurst supplies one of the places in in midtown, but I was thinking that, you know, the sub the it's it sets within it's within several hours, right?
+
+[51:40] So you you're s you is that texture actually a chicken in rigor or is it pre rigor or do you have any idea? No, I mean but that'd be super interesting, right? Just get the get the chicken, rush home and cook it right away. Uh you know, get you know, uh the the the interesting one would be to go in the morning, get a chicken, right, put it in your fridge, uh go in the evening, get the chicken, rush home or get you know, and then do one maybe the day before, two days before, and then like cook 'em all three at the same time, side by side in the same oven and test them out. That'd be fascinating.
+
+[52:14] Yeah, yeah. I might I might try that 'cause now now I'm curious, especially with salting as well. Because there's there's there's some way. I feel like the texture might change pretty radically by, you know, different different times and different uh salting just in that, you know, twenty twelve to you know, forty eight hours if you if you you did twelve hour intervals. Yeah, well, if you do it, please, you know, write write right in to us or you know, uh t let us know what's going on, 'cause this is the kind of information that uh we crave.
+
+[52:41] Okay, yeah, I'll certainly do it. I'll let you know. Thanks very much. All right, thank you. Peter Cook wrote in at cooking issues, what are your favorite uses for fish sauce?
+
+[52:50] And are there any good substitutes for alcohol when deglazing and or flavoring? I like fish sauce in almost everything. Stas, you a fish sauce fan? Uh huh. Yeah, I love myself some fish sauce.
+
+[52:59] Um, so I mean, let's say you have someone it's just delicious. I mean, soups, delicious with fish sauce. Um I don't mean uh I it's you know it's one of those things that I would add to many things. Like uh let's say someone doesn't eat meat but they eat fish, right? Fish sauce, I put fish sauce in everything.
+
+[53:18] I also like anchovies a lot. I will throw anchovies into almost uh almost anything. Uh I really like salty uh fish flavored things. So it's like hard for me to say. You know, it's hard for me to say what my favorite is because I just like them so much.
+
+[53:33] Now now what I what I would recommend you do with fish sauce is there's no such thing as one as one fish sauce. Like my favorite brand that you can get kind of around is uh Tipperose. I like that one a lot. I think that one's from Thailand. But um go out and source yourself some like really interesting uh fish sauces uh like um ishiri from uh from uh Japan.
+
+[53:57] Um it's not really fish sauce, but go get some colatura anyway from Italy. That's good. Do you like that stuff? Like the anchovy juice? Yeah, it's good.
+
+[54:04] Uh so I don't know. Now, any good substitutes for alcohol when deglazing and or flavoring. Now, nothing adds alcohol flavor quite like alcohol does, but for deglazing, really, you don't have to use uh alcohol. In fact, a lot of times the only real um the only real thing you need to have for a deglazing liquid is that it can't have so many solids in it that it scorches on the pan. You're using it to break the solids off of the pan and then reduce.
+
+[54:28] So anything that's flavorful that's not going to scorch during the uh time that you're deglazing, you can use it and often you're deglazing with uh you know with water or you know, if you're making you know good gravy or something something else. But the reason you add the alcohol first when you deglaze is so that you have more opportunity to uh cook the alcohol out before you add the bulk of your uh liquid. I mean, I think that's the reason why people add alcohol first and they're deglazing, not because it needs to be alcoholic. In other words, I don't think they're using the properties of the alcohol to dissolve the stuff on the bottom of the pan, if that makes sense. Does that make sense to us?
+
+[55:00] Okay. Uh this is a great name because I can't pronounce it. It's G with O with an O Umlaut R-A-N. So I'm gonna call it Gurin, Elden, Gurren. What do you think?
+
+[55:09] Gurren, I'm gonna go with Gurren. Uh cooking issues. I often use canola oil for frying. Good or bad. Many people use a lot of olive oil.
+
+[55:16] Isn't that a bad choice for hot applications? All right. Uh Gurren, here's the deal. Uh olive oil is not bad for hot applications. However, you aren't getting any awesome taste benefit if you heat the olive oil too much.
+
+[55:29] And we talked about this a while, I think maybe like a year ago or six months ago, uh, where we did a bunch, someone called in and we talked to McGee about it. We did some side-by-side taste tests of eggs cooked in in olive oil. And uh and Mark Ladner was here that day. Oh, yeah. Yeah.
+
+[55:42] And we were tasting eggs. Remember, we're tasting eggs? And um it turns out that it's fine. Uh cooking with uh olive oil is fine, but you know, all the awesome fruity notes and kind of the varietal characteristics and all the things you love about the taste of olive oil are wiped out by the cooking. It's not bad from uh uh a technical standpoint.
+
+[56:01] Now, um, though, anyway, so that's that. Uh now the other problem is is that a lot of olive oils will degrade quickly if you're frying, and so they're not a good choice for frying long term, or if you're frying a lot of stuff, or if you're gonna have a lot of particles sitting around in it. Uh, because um depending on which kind you get and what's going on, the smoke point can lower faster than some other oils. All right. Now, as whether canola oil is good or bad, um, I used to hate canola oil, hated it, hated it, really hated it.
+
+[56:29] Like in the 90s, like I hated it so much because the stuff that you would buy that was cheap just hadn't been properly deodorized, and so it tasted wretched, awful. But the canola oils that I've tried recently, and it took me many years to uh after I had done some initial frying tests with canola oil in the nineties, uh it took me many, many years. I talk in the early nineties too, like ninety-two, you know, nine ninety-two, ninety-three. It took me many years to go try canola oil. In fact, for you know, a decade or so, I was like, hell with canola oil, crap on it.
+
+[57:00] I don't care, it could be the healthiest thing on earth, it could save my life. I'm not going to use it for frying. And then uh I tried it again, you know, uh sometime in the 2000s, and I think they fixed that problem at the average deodorization of the canola oil is fine. Now, canola oil, canola is not a plant. Canola uh is a contraction, I think, of Canada and oil because it was originally developed up there from a variety of rape seed.
+
+[57:21] Talk about a crap name for a product. Uh rapeseed is from the mustard uh family, and so they developed a variety of rapeseed that had was particularly low in uh I don't even know how to pronounce it, but like uh Russic or the the the stuff that that that the the unsaturated fatty acid that's in uh mustard oil, which if you have it in large quantities, some people say it's bad for you, which is why you can't get the real deal mustard oil here in the U.S. easily unless it's labeled not for consumption, even though the studies are crap. So, anyway, so people are worried about that. But the canola oil that's out there has very low, less than two percent uh of that fatty acid in it, and so there's nothing out there that shows that that is a health problem.
+
+[58:01] There's some studies I couldn't read them because my internet was crapping out on me that the uh that that certain trans pufas that's awesome, trans poofa, polyunsaturated fatty acids, trans pufas are formed during the deodorization process. That I can't attest to because unfortunately I couldn't get to the data with my internet this morning. Uh but I don't have anything out there that says that um that I believe that I trust that says that the stuff is uh bad for you uh in any sense, and I know a lot of people say it's good for you. I don't believe that either, but uh I can say that I no longer believe that it tastes like crap, and it's probably good for frying because I believe the smoke point is fairly high. On the way out, because they're gonna kick me out of here.
+
+[58:43] I forgot last week to give a shout out to May May in Boston, uh May May Food Truck, and I guess uh I don't know if whether the kitchen, the non-food truck thing is is open yet, but they came to um the talk that we gave. You know, the whole crew came to the talk that we gave with uh with McGee, and then um you know I want to spend some time with them afterwards talking to them, and you know, I set off the freaking fire alarm, and so we got cleared out of the building, and you guys gave me a uh a set of pastries. You said this is the best pastry in all of uh all of Boston, and it got lost in the shuffle. So I didn't eat the f the pastry. It's horrible.
+
+[59:19] But I did get from those guys uh two bottles of liquor from Boston, and I really appreciate bringing kind of Boston uh, you know, Boston local products for me to taste when I'm in Boston or in Cambridge in this case. Although you didn't bring any of your own stuff, so next time I go up there, I want to try your own stuff. But they did bring two things: Grand 10, which is in uh Boston, distilling, Grand 10 distilling, angelica liqueur, which is like uh an angelica liqueur made in Boston, which we enjoyed. We might work that into a cocktail. Do you like did you try that one, Stuy?
+
+[59:46] Yeah, it's good. And, and this is what I'm gonna go out on, uh, Bully Boy Rum, which is uh Boston rum, and for those of you that don't know, uh Boston, Medford actually specifically, you know, if you're into the whole Medford thing, known back in the day, pre-prohibition for being a center of rum uh distillation since before the American Revolution. In fact, Paul Revere famously, as he's riding uh down the uh, you know, trying to warn, you know, I guess that the British were coming. Although that's a bunch of hocum. There's actually, you know, Revere, like got his horse taken from him, like, you know, like when he was in, I think Lexington, got his horse taken from him, and ended up sitting the rest of the night out.
+
+[1:00:24] And it was another dude that uh that didn't get caught, you know, that escaped with his horse that kept on riding out. The real freaking hero of the day, Paul Revere, you know, got caught, and yet they write the poem about Paul Revere because I can't I can't even remember the other guy's name, but apparently, you know, not so good for poetry. So Revere gets all the props, right? But anyway, so on the way out to get captured by the British and not really warn very many people because he got captured, you know, fairly early on in the thing. He uh so I'm gonna get some crap about that, I know I am.
+
+[1:00:54] He uh takes famously takes a swill of Medford rum, which was supposedly pretty good, and um, and you read about this in Wayne Curtis's book on rum, uh, and they reenact that to this day. People will ride fake ride past there, and they'll take a swig of rum, but no longer from Medford. And I'm hoping that the Medford ride people are now using the bully boy rum. We enjoy it. Now, one last thing about uh Medford and Boston and rum.
+
+[1:01:17] The Boston rum was produced from molasses, because guess what they can't grow in Boston? You guessed it. Sugar cane. They can't grow it. So they would take the molasses and they would ship it up there.
+
+[1:01:25] And so there were lots of stockpiles of molasses in Boston prior to Prohibition. And just prior to Prohibition, one of my favorite history crazy facts happened. Just prior to Prohibition, even though it wasn't actually for uh rum that it was, it was for industrial alcohol. So in 1919, a giant tank, like imagine, you know those those giant tanks of fuel that you see in Elizabeth, New Jersey as you're driving down the turnpike, those big kind of fuel tank stars, you know what I'm talking about? Imagine it filled with molasses.
+
+[1:01:57] All of a sudden, these people on the street, and there's like a like an elevated train, there's horses, there's all this 1919. They hear bing, bing, ping, boop, and all of a sudden, a 15-foot-high wall of molasses running 35 mile an hour, right? Exerting a pressure, according to one thing I read, of two tons per square foot, right? And just smacks into you. It knocked down like railroad cars, like horses just got in molasses, and like a bunch of people died.
+
+[1:02:24] A bunch of horses died, and a bunch of people died. Uh and can you imagine anything worse? You're drowning in molasses. You get smacked down tackled by molasses, and then you drown in molasses in Boston. And the and the story was that for decades, even into the 70s when I was a kid, which was I first read about it in Smithsonian Magazine, I can remember to this day reading about it because one of my great aunts from Medford, you know, these my stepfather had these like three maiden aunts who never got married and they're born.
+
+[1:02:50] Anyway, so I said they remembered it. They remembered it. Uh and uh and into the 70s, the streets of m of Boston when it got hot out still smelled like molasses in the area where the uh flood was. Uh cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on heritage Radio network.org.
+
+[1:03:14] You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network
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+[0:00] Today's program was brought to you by Mood Magazine, a new international quarterly publication about music and food. For more information, visit Mood Music Food.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwood Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:31] It's Dave Morgan, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live on Tuesday, every Tuesday at 12. Well, not if we weren't here last week because we were embarrassing ourselves at Starchef's. Boom! Anyway, today we're here at Roberta's Peter in Bushwick, Brooklyn with Jack and Joe in the engineering booth, and as usual, Stas the Hammer Lopez here in the studio. How you guys doing?
+
+[0:50] Good. Good. I just told Nastasia I ran into Indy Jesus in the street. What'd you say? You say hey, Indy Jesus.
+
+[0:56] I didn't call him that, no. I said hey Dante. Oh, uh well. You didn't like have a glass of water and try to turn it to wine, anything awesome like that. Next time.
+
+[1:04] Next time. He's not here anymore, though. He left? He's gone. That's it.
+
+[1:10] All right, all right. So listen. Today we have a very special. Are they both gonna be on or is or is just one? Both.
+
+[1:17] Sweet. Both here? Sweet. We have uh we have the the you know, what do you call it? The the the unique group, ideas and food.
+
+[1:28] Um uh Aki Kamazawa and uh Alex Talbot, uh, you know, the kind of like the how you call them, the O the OG new tech food folk on the on the on the line on the internet, and they're they're today have released a new book called Maximum Flavor. Maximum. Recipes that will change the way you cook. Uh and if you go and order that thing right now, today's the first day, you can have a shiny fresh copy uh on your doorstep tomorrow, or if you still live in a place where there are real bookstores, you could probably go buy it right now. Uh welcome guys.
+
+[2:03] What's going on? What's going on with you? Uh it's good to chat. Yeah, so uh why don't you guys uh you know oh by the way, you can call in your questions to uh the ideas and food crew or us if you have any questions, you know, for for us shlumpy folks over here. Uh to 7184972128, that's 7184972128.
+
+[2:20] Before we start with uh some of the questions, I'm gonna actually one of them references you, so I'll hit you with that later. But um why don't you tell us a little bit about the book? I mean one thing I noticed when I looked at this book as opposed to the first book is this is a full color extravaganza of a book. Novel idea, isn't it? Yeah, yeah.
+
+[2:36] So yeah, so why don't you talk about uh talk about it for a minute? Oh okay. Well decided that we needed to have photographs in this book because every time anyone opened the other book, they looked at us and went, Where are the pictures? Yeah. People are so people are so visual, the weasels, the weasels.
+
+[2:55] Well, what's what's really interesting, uh you know, from uh I guess from an outside perspective is that for um you know, for many years your blog was known uh for you know having being very photo heavy, having a lot of photos. So I guess it probably just was a surprise to people to see something come out that wasn't that way. Do you know what I'm saying? Certainly. I mean the the first book, the first book is really a handbook for the kitchen.
+
+[3:18] Um and without without pictures, people are gonna look, you know, we're looking for you know, what what's it supposed to look like? My am I on the right path? Uh and I think that's probably the the big the biggest hiccup we came across with ideas and food. Uh the book. Uh so this one we we we wanted to uh face that front on and and photograph the bejesus out of it.
+
+[3:40] And there's supposed to be only I think seventy five pictures in it, and I think we have probably double that. Yeah, no, it's it really helps tell the story. And it's like you know it's all all big color splashy stuff. I leaf through it. It looks great.
+
+[3:51] I didn't get a chance to read it because uh I saw you right before my ill-fated Starchefs demonstration uh which is where we you know where the cooking issues crew was last week instead of doing our real job of being here on the radio we were at Starchefs uh having things not go our way uh but uh you know uh that aside I got to flip through it it looks great I can't wait to get uh a hold of a copy but uh but it's true it's I looked at it this morning on Amazon and I don't are you guys pro Amazon or anti-Amazon or do you not want to come out for or against on the on you know in public. Yeah well no we we used to live in Colorado in the mountains in the middle of nowhere and we could not have gotten any books there if it were not for Amazon. So while we are pro indie bookstores we are also pro Amazon. Sometimes we just can't get things any other way. Alright and then you want to give a pitch for like if they already own the first book like what you know why should they go get this it's all new all different correct all new all different totally different um the the first book as we said was was one that it is is the house and wise it is the it is you know the the the the thing the reference material that you'll need and then recipes that support it.
+
+[5:02] Whereas this is recipes that you really want to eat there's a lot of information jammed into each one and then it's a lot of things to uh to really then extrapolate from so you know it's a great jumping off point, and then it's also just a great eating point. Alright, and for people, you know, who aren't necessarily super tech or equipment savvy, although I guess you know a lot of people who listen here are, like, there's still going to be a lot in for them, correct? There's fun. I think the whole point of this as we talk over each other. The the whole point of this book was we had a lot of fun with it, and the science is still there, but it's almost hidden.
+
+[5:41] So it's kind of scattered through the recipes and it's in the head notes and it's layered more into stories as opposed to the first book where the science was kind of front and center, and the recipes are behind that. Here we were more about like really, really delicious food and then explaining how we did it. Sweet. Well secondly, I can't wait to get uh a copy of it. I'm sure it's gonna do well.
+
+[6:02] Why don't we answer some questions for the folks? Uh we have we get writing questions beforehand. I have a little bit of a of an advantage over you guys that I got the questions this morning, so you know, I had a chance to look at it. But no, but that's it. We're we're all we'll all go for it here, okay?
+
+[6:15] So uh Aaron Will writes in. He said, Recently we've been making shrimp stock at our restaurant, Scratch. Uh and we've uh noticed that unfortunately when we let the stock come to a full boil, a stable form uh foam would form uh and it would boil over vigorously. This obviously has never happened to a fish, poultry, or land mammal stock that I've ever made before. And this leads me to hypothesize that there is some sort of stabilizer in the shrimp meat or shells that would cause this foam to form.
+
+[6:40] If there is, could there be a way to use this in an advantageous manner to suit the needs of somebody or some entity? Uh also I never got to thank you for giving us a shout out on the show a while back. Can't wait to get some mofad gear and represent Aaron Will. Well, I mean, I'll just put my two cents in really quickly. One thing I need to know beforehand on the foaming, I mean, is you guys, as anyone knows, if you cook uh whole uh crustaceans, especially things like lobsters, they foam like demons.
+
+[7:04] Uh and i'm the humolence. Yeah, right. Yeah, come I mean, it's my my presumption, right? So I would assume that you wouldn't get that much foaming for uh if you were buying headless shrimp do you know what I mean? But if you were buying whole body shrimp I would assume that you could get some decent foaming out of it because there's lots of um I'm reminded of a very old uh like uh dual language Chinese American cookbook that I have that one of the recipes uh calls for like foaming egg whites by hand and then putting it in front of the cooked crab on the plate and it's and it's called for crab spittle effect in English translation crab spittle effect.
+
+[7:43] And so you know it's right I mean it's it's well known that there's all kinds of protonaceous crap that you know sea creatures uh produce especially crustaceans. In fact when you have uh you know animals that produce uh waste nitrogenous products constantly in aquarium tanks you have protein skimmers to remove them because otherwise and the way that they work is by foaming the protein stuff that's there. So my guess is is that there's some sort of uh protein crap there that comes out the only other guess I have is that some of the you know the shrimp shells are made of a product called chitin which is one of the most common biopolymers in the world and it's um it's a nitrogen containing um kind of poly polysaccharide like thing uh that you know I use the broken down form of it called chitusan for um for clarification and and other things but that stuff foams so maybe you're getting some of that too. You guys ever had any any issue with uh this stock or anything to say on crustacean stocks uh I mean whole whole shrimp shells stock certainly foam same with lobster, but we do everything now in the pressure cooker, so for the most part, we're not getting any of that that boil. Uh and and we're doing it, you know, again, real fast to concentrate the flavor.
+
+[8:56] And again, the fresh cooker keeps the uh the foam, I would say, at bay. Um Right. I mean, you know, the thing also, uh as opposed to shrimp, let's let's just not on the not on topic really, but shrimp as opposed to lobster. So I think like you know, one of the common problems with uh I mean, shrimp shell, there's like uh look, an American like a a shrimp shell that we get from a farmed shrimp, like even if you cook the hell out of it, like there's only so much crap that's there, right? If you're just using the shell and not the head and all that stuff in terms of I mean it's so paper thin usually, and there's not much.
+
+[9:26] So I don't really find a lot of problems, not not foaming problems, taste problems. But I do find, and I'm curious about pressure cooking since I haven't pressure cooked this one. If you were to pressure cook like a hard shell lobster, you know how when you overcook a lobster stock to make a bisque, it gets the only thing I don't really know what it is 'cause I've never analyzed it, but what I consider to be kind of like a a shell taste, almost like a calcium-y taste to it. You ever notice that? It's it's funny you mention that.
+
+[9:52] We uh we haven't gotten it that way because all we use is the heads. So we just take the insides. Oh yeah, there you go. Because when you when you make when you're doing like, you know, uh an oil infusion or if you're making a stock of like from straight shells on lobster, like it's like good good up you roast them, right? And then you cook 'em up to a point, and then when you over extract them, you're like, this crap's done.
+
+[10:14] You know what I mean? It's like shells. Yeah, it tastes like shells. Yeah. Well, that's the but I mean, uh if you're making a shell oil, it it's it's great.
+
+[10:21] But if you're making lobster oil, you probably just want to use the you know, the the head part. Yeah, yeah. So back to your question, Aaron, they're well known that there are proteins in there. Uh try the pressure cooker. Um do you guys believe my story that your pressure cooker shouldn't vent or no?
+
+[10:36] I still believe it very very wholeheartedly. You don't want it to vent. Why why would you vent it? No, no, I mean, in other words, like I believe that the pressure cookers that constantly vent to regulate their pressure produce a lower quality stock than ones like the Coon Recon that don't, even though I just had terrible experience with a coon recon exploding in my kitchen. It was freaking nightmare.
+
+[10:55] Really? You haven't exploded? Well, here's what happens. There's a you know how like you know how you know how I'm lazy? You know me, I'm lazy.
+
+[11:03] So, like, you know, the the gas the gaskets deteriorate over time because they're silicone, they deteriorate, and um and so you know uh it's my personal pressure cooker. I brought into work because I needed to do something, and I'm you know, every day I'm like, oh I'll repr I'll replace the gaskets, I'll replace it, you know, next time I'll replace it next time, next time. And there's a little there's a little secondary pressure uh relief on the top of the pan next to the valve. And uh the silicone there wasn't sealing properly, so it was always spitting out a little steam. So Piper who works with me is like, hey Dave, it's steaming.
+
+[11:34] Don't you say that ruins the flavor this time? I'm like, all right. So I go over there to start fiddling with it, right? And then and then I'm trying to set the damn thing. So I think maybe there's like some grit in it or something.
+
+[11:43] So I'm trying to set it. I take a uh uh a butter knife, the back end of a butter knife, and I go pap pap on the top of the thing to seal it, and I blew it through the lid of the uh of the thing. Now this sucker was full, three quarters full of rendering like full chicken with the fat in it and everything, stock, at 15 PSI. Like I'm talking like uh like like five liters of chicken six liters of chicken stock at fifteen psi, and I all of a sudden I punch a quarter inch hole through it, and it was like old faithful. It's like a freaking geyser.
+
+[12:16] It flies up, hits the ceiling, chicken fat, like everywhere, and you know, Piper runs up, he's gonna put a uh a towel over I'm like Piper Man. That's like, you know, that's like whatever, urinating in the ocean to raise the tide. Like you're we're done here. And like, so we just have to sit there for a minute watching the damn pressure cooker vent chicken fat and chicken stock all over the entire lab coated with a fine mist of chicken products. My dog loved it.
+
+[12:42] The dog thought it was fantastic. Uh I I have since replaced the gaskets. Uh so anyway, okay. Uh next So it wasn't the pressure cooker that failed, it was more of a user error. Yeah, I'd have to go say I'd have to go user error with that.
+
+[12:56] Uh yeah. I mean, first of all, like, you know, just a note to Vene out there, you know, regularly replace the uh rubber parts in your uh in your pressure cooker because they do uh lose their ability to seal over over time. This is you know, this is not the first time I've had issues like this. Uh, you know, the main gasket around the around the rim. I'm always late in replacing that one.
+
+[13:17] And uh modern pressure cookers have a safety override where um if you look at the lid of a of a modern pressure cooker, there are uh there are gaps cut into it. And the reason those are there is so that if you build up too much pressure, it will literally extrude the main ceiling gasket out of these holes and then vent out of the thing. But if you don't replace your gasket, they just extrude under normal 15 psi pressures. I uh, you know, as Bell uh raised back, you know, at Starships when he was doing this stuff, I vented twice in one day coffee, pressure cooking coffee rye beans, uh rye berries, all over his Chef White's twice because I didn't replace the freaking gasket. Uh nice.
+
+[13:58] Yeah, okay. A little too much information for the folks out there. Alright, next question. Uh Johnny writes in about uh about fermentation and about beans. And uh I don't really have an answer for the beans, so I'm hoping you you will.
+
+[14:09] Um he goes, uh thanks for the egg advice a few shows back, cracking them on a flat surface, Jacques Papin style has reduced the amount of shell in my scrambled eggs. Uh I now have some questions about lacto fermenting vegetables and fruit lately. I've been getting some really kick-ass results. Well, kick butt will say kick butt results with simple countertop uh countertop ferments. Uh I did some experimenting and found that even crappy, low-quality, flavorless tomatoes, both canned and fresh, become delicious with some bubbling on the counter, uh fermenting bubbling.
+
+[14:36] Uh also puree chilies with a bit of salt left to ferment, turn into a dynamite hot sauce. That's true. And my underwhelming sauerkraut tastes delicious, fried up with some potatoes. Although there's no reason for sauerkraut to be underwhelming because sauerkraut's inherently delicious. Anyway.
+
+[15:16] Anyway, uh not so sure what ingredients or dishes it'd be good with or added to. Any ideas? Do you have any favorite lacto ferments? Uh well, sauerkraut actually literally is mine, but boring as that is. Um, can you uh use them like stocks?
+
+[15:28] Uh can you use them like stock, or does the acidity totally change? How do you uh how do you think about using them as an ingredient? Alright, so um I'm gonna it's a long, yeah, it's alright, complicated, but I'm gonna let you weigh in. The corn, by the way, uh I you know right now when anyone asks me a fermentation question, I literally just pick up my my copy of uh The Art of Fermentation by Sandor Katz and just see what because the research in that is so thorough that you know I just yeah, there's no reason to reinvent the wheels sometimes. I just go because I'm sure he's researched it.
+
+[15:57] And in fact, he found um I don't know her personally but uh April McGregor has a a website called Farmer's Daughter and she doesn't sell those uh on the website but she sells uh fermented corn uh in her stand in North Carolina and she's like yeah they get really sour. Presumably you're using sweet corn sweet corn has a lot of sugar it will ferment very quickly and make very sour results. Um but as for salt you know that and I'm gonna let you guys w weigh in here because it's people ask me this all the time and I always say the same thing. You can do ferments without salt. The problem is that they're not can they're not going to be uh consistent and you know i the the short answer is that tastes good well yeah I mean look like uh you know McGee was telling me that there's these crazy amaranth ferments in China that's that smell like like the worst smell in the world but people you know eat it without dying.
+
+[16:47] You know um my feeling is is that it you know if it gets sour you're probably safe and if it doesn't get sour you're probably not gonna want to eat it because some crazy stuff's gonna be growing in there. Um you know you guys any any any thoughts there on this on the salt free sermon? Yeah go ahead. So so I mean I'll I'll kick in on I mean you don't need salt and again that's referencing one one Sandor Katz as well. But the salt the salt is certainly the flavoring agent.
+
+[17:18] So we we want it there to help peak everything. Fermentation certainly we found fermented foods just taste better. It you're you're developing flavors and the and and the the ingredients are broken down to release uh more aromatics. So you know, anything fermented is good for the most part. Anything ranched, that's a whole other story.
+
+[17:38] Salt levels? Yeah. It it ranges. I I mean we what was it? I I think we've seen as low as one point five percent, but we usually s have our salt brines and a way based brines or something like that.
+
+[17:49] Roughly around what five percent I say. Yeah, that's pretty that's pretty that's pretty standard like, you know, uh not not but you know all these things are crazy. It's like some people they they write in and they take into account their theoretical water base for their veg and some don't. The fact of the matter is is i I think only if you are gonna do this the same thing a lot, right? Like let's say you were gonna make uh fifty five gallons of uh sour pickles, right?
+
+[18:16] Well and then it behooves you to who's gonna do that at home. Right, right, exactly. But I'm saying but if you're gonna do it then it behooves you to get the stuff right. You know what I mean? And get get something to measure salinity and figure out exactly what's going on and measure the water where you can but i in you know in reality at home I think you know eyeballing it in general is okay.
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+[18:34] You know what I mean? I yeah I mean look anyone that's listening to this show, unless you have a very unless you have a specific dietary restriction, right, knows that I believe that salt is not it is not harmful to people that it's not harmful to, right? So you should probably put the salt level where it tastes good to you. Like that's my feeling. What do you guys think about this?
+
+[18:57] I would agree with that. I think that it depends on how long you want to keep your pickles too. If you're gonna eat them in you know relatively quickly then you don't have to worry as much about the bacteria levels. And I also think that with pickle making it's usually pretty obvious when things have gone wrong. And I think actually Sandor says that in his first book that you know, if it smells bad, if it looks bad, don't eat it.
+
+[19:17] Start over again. But you know, pickles are it's it's it's clear when things have gone awry. Things start growing and things get soft and mooshy, and as long as your texture's good and your flavor's good, you're you're good to go. Mmm soft and mushy. All right.
+
+[19:32] Uh his second question is submerging it though. Oh yeah, that was our biggest problem for the longest. If it doesn't matter, as long as you're underneath the brine. Well, that's why, like, you know, that's why the like the easiest way to do it if you don't if you know, is to just vac the crap down and then put it inside of a second vac a vac bag in case it blows and tie the second bag down. You know what I mean?
+
+[19:51] It's like boom, suck suckers insto submerged. Uh, you know, that's you know, it's like such an easy way to to get if you have a vac machine, it's such an easy way to get uh high quality uh I've never tried it just in zipping without a vac, but I'm sure it would work. But the zip bags will blow once it starts fermenting, is the only problem. You know, a a good vacu actually interestingly, a not so good vacuum bag that has slight gas permit, you know, uh that can diffuse a slight amount of gas through it. They they don't blow.
+
+[20:19] I've never really had one I've had them turn into really tight, tight, tight, tight, tight, tight, tight, tight, tight pillows, but I've never had one explode on me. And uh and the the good news about that too is you get that nice little kind of petillon from the the CO2 that can't leave. Do you ever do that in the vacu do you like doing it in the vac bags? We actually don't. You don't like jars, weights, boom, done.
+
+[20:45] You don't like the vac? I don't I know I don't like the bubbles. Oh, I love the bubbles. You know, I like anything carbonated. If you know me, I like anything carbonated though.
+
+[20:52] Any any damn thing, carbonate any damn thing. Especially kimchi. I love kimchi with some carbonation in it. You have to like kimchi with some carbonation. You hate that?
+
+[21:00] I love that. I hate that. I chop it all up so that the bubbles dissipate. Really? So you're like you're like you're like you're like putting it throwing a vacuum down on it to pull any CO2 out of it right before service.
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+[21:10] You're like pull the CO2 out. All you have to do is slice it up, because you know, once you slice it up, it evaporates naturally. But yeah, I'm not I'm not a fan. Wow, this is i interesting point of difference. And this just goes to show this is why it's good to make your own crap because then you know, if you like it to bubbles, you can make it a bubbles.
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+[21:28] If you don't, you don't. Um then if you do make them you can always get rid of them. That's true. That's true. So uh Johnny's second question.
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+[21:34] Sometimes I cook uh dried beans and despite an overnight soak and long all capitals, so it must be very long cook time, several hours. I cannot get them to finish cooking with a soft interior. Now here's the kicker. I don't add salt or acid. Just cooking them at a boil and uh then at a simmer in water.
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+[21:50] I got them from a popular green market venue vendor that seems like they have a high turnover, so it's not like a five-year-old bean. Could the beans be so old that they just won't cook all the way through, or am I just doing it wrong? I don't have a pressure cooker and would that solve it? Well that's an interesting question. I don't know what would cause them to stay hard if you're not adding any acid to it.
+
+[22:08] Yeah, that's weird. No, I mean he needs is seaweed, combo. Yeah. You put at least a combo in your beans. It it helps tenderize, yeah.
+
+[22:16] Yeah. What's the agent? There's you know, I don't have it in front of me, but there's actually an enzyme in the combo that softens the skin of the beans. So you and helps them absorb water more more easily. So you put it in during the soak?
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+[22:30] You can put it in during the soap soak and leave it in during the cooking time, or if you have like grease soaked beans there, you can always just put it in during the cooking time. Right. It's like you know, a two inch square for every cup of dried beans. Right. Yeah, nice.
+
+[22:45] Go buy the book, go buy the book. But you know, my only question you know, um, the one thing I d I don't know where Johnny lives or what his water quality is like. I mean, most typically Yeah, that could have something to do with it. Right. I mean Oh yeah.
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+[22:57] If he lives in Plano, Texas, he's toast. Why? What's the what's the pH of uh water in Plano? No, the ki the calcium in the water that down there. Oh, they have a lot of c yeah, super hard water if you have calcium will strengthen the pectin and you're done.
+
+[23:09] You're done. You're done. That's gotta be it. It's gotta be the water he's using. It's always the water.
+
+[23:14] Yeah. So, you know. No, I that's right, yeah. Super hard water. We we were doing a demonstration down there a number of years ago.
+
+[23:21] And we were making a uh a pectin bath and didn't account for the calcium in the water because we didn't know about it. The stuff in instantly gelled. And it wasn't even sequestable, you couldn't even hit it with shimp? No, I uh we did afterwards. But at first we didn't even didn't cross our mind to sequester the uh the water and then.
+
+[23:39] Yeah. And then we Yeah. Johnny, I'm uh I'm gonna go ahead here and say that uh we've discovered your problem. You have uh hard water, and you're gonna want to uh use a water softener or get uh like a gallon jug of spring water or something like that. You think we got you think we got it?
+
+[23:55] Or s or at sodium hexametophosphate. Yes, that that would be another solution is to sequester your bean water. Although I've never that's interesting. This might be the first time any human being has ever said I'm going to sequester my bean water. Uh I've not done that yet, but I might have to try that now.
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+[24:09] What to go you get next time you're in Plano, you're gonna go get some water and add some shimp to it to cook beans? All right. Yeah. All right, sweet. Um should we take a commercial break and then come back?
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+[24:19] Yeah. We're gonna come back right back with ideas and food, cooking issues. Like what you hear so far? Support the network and become a member. Membership helps us bring you the best food radio in the world and gives you access to thousands of dollars in discounts at the sustainably minded businesses that support us.
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+[24:45] To become a member, visit Heritage Radio Network.org today. What's Mood? Mood is a quarterly magazine about music and food. For its creators, not many things can beat a good record and a delicious meal. Maybe a well-written story or a gorgeous photo.
+
+[25:37] Well, that's all in Mood. The magazine looks at music and food in a cohesive and unique way, with a keen eye to design and high quality writing. Its contributors are located around the globe, and the stories span accordingly. Check it out today at Mood Music Food.com. That's Mood Music Food.com.
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+[26:01] And welcome back. So uh what is mood? Just kidding, I'm just messing with you, Jack. Anyway, uh, so uh we're back with ideas and food. Uh, you still have time to call in your questions to 7184972128.
+
+[26:12] That's 718497-2128. So the uh folks at uh May May Street Kitchen, uh, who we met when we uh or whom we met when we went up to Harvard, uh, wrote in a question. I think they must have sent it uh before, but I just got it. They said, hello from the crew at May May Street Kitchen. Uh, we are so amped up from watching Dave burn up a bunch of rice at the Harvard Lecture.
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+[26:30] I when I last time I puffed in a lecture, it's I shouldn't do this lecture wise anymore. We uh for those uh you know we we had an issue and we cleared out a science building at Harvard, uh, but it did make a big explosion, which was which was nice. Um anyway, uh we are so amped up from watching Dave burn up a bunch of rice at the Harvard Lecture that we had to write and say how much we love you guys, was very pleasant. The bar, the podcast, uh the blog, everything. It was so fun to see you in action in person, especially Nastasha sitting in the corner like a boss.
+
+[26:56] And honestly, we couldn't think of a better end of the night than watching Dave set off the fire alarm in a cloud of black brown smoke, and subsequently getting Harold McGee to sign our books while sitting on the lawn like a friendly and wise woodland creature. Seriously, we think of burn uh we think of burnt rice and it's great. You gonna be I've never heard of McGee described as a woodland creature before. Woodling creature. I'll have to talk to him about that.
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+[27:17] Uh so uh they have a question from two of uh uh their cooks, Emily and Caden, and uh uh the question is it started when we tried to figure out if the and this is one where they reference you guys specifically, so I'm gonna let you guys just take this sucker and run. You ready? Because they're referencing something that you that one of your techniques. Uh Emily Emily and Caden's question. It all started when we tried to figure out if the air in a fridge is wet or dry, and if a thing placed in that fridge will dry out or absorb moisture.
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+[27:43] We had a peanut brittle on the menu at the time, and we were trying to decide whether we should keep it in the fridge to avoid it melting. It gets hot on a food truck in August, or leave it out to avoid it absorbing moisture and becoming horribly disgusting and gummy. Uh we noted that if you're drying out the skin of something that you want to crisp, you can put it in the fridge, like Dave Chang does in the Momo Fried Chicken Recipe, or Heston does in his home cooked version of triple cooked chips. That's French fries for real people. Uh I'm kidding, British people.
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+[28:09] You know, whatever, we call them French fries. Uh other things that you put in the fridge so they absorb moisture, other things you put in the fridge so they absorb moisture, like on the ideas in food blog, Aki and Alex rehydrate uh dehydrated beets by putting them in the fridge. What gives? So now we're thinking about the relative humidity versus absolute humidity. I don't know what those things mean, but my staff does.
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+[28:29] And whether we should be thinking of the fridge as an open system or a closed system. I don't even know what our question is anymore, but maybe you can just wait you can just wax poetic about humidity and refrigerators and lila like for as long as you deem appropriate. All the best, and thanks again for coming to Boston, Irene and Max and Caden and Emily and Alex, Caitlin and uh Olivia and Peter. Okay. Uh so uh why don't you guys talk about that for a minute?
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+[28:54] All right. Okay. Um the the the bells. Yeah. So we we we pressure cook the beets until they're they're cooked at bejesus, then we dehydrate them until they concentrate and develop a s a nice dark skin.
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+[29:07] Then we we take them while they're still warm. We actually there's there's a missing point there. We put them in in the zip top bags. Well, the warm seal in the zip top bags and then throw them in the fridge. So they steam in the bag in the in the environment.
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+[29:19] So there's your your moisture. So you're just re-equilibrating, really. You're just re equilibrating. Exactly. Yeah.
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+[29:27] So one of the issues with all with all food cookery that involves surface phenomena. So that's frying, uh panning, grilling, uh, par dehydrating, anything, is that uh you develop uh a situation where the inside typically the inside of the food has a much higher moisture content than the outside of the food, right? And so sometimes, and uh, you know, I don't really um you know the inside outside your technique, you know, you'll tell me about tell me about but the sometimes you can form a uh a skin that skin is can be then permanent because the cells have collapsed but you can get moisture back so that they can equilibrate so that the texture changes back to something that you like just by letting the moisture come in from the outside correct or no bingo yeah bingo the uh you typically and this can be a very good thing for this kind of a technique very bad thing with fried chicken horrible with fried chicken right um but you know a a lot of what cooking is uh especially if you want things to last for a while after they're cooked is moisture control and moisture migration from the center of a product to the outside of a product and much time is thought about that especially on the on the pro level this is why people add so much to their tempura. This is why tinpura is actually not good a good product. This is why it actually is bad.
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+[30:48] Like t tenpura I've I've had like some of the supposedly best tenpura chefs in the world make tempura and I've eaten it and it was it wasn't bad. I mean it wasn't bad and that's that's very that's hyperbolic but it's not as awesome as as it could be because it's it's um the the the the the the moisture balance is shafted. I mean if you eat it directly as it comes out you know yeah it's good but I don't know I don't think I ever prefer it and it can't last the way that it's made what do you guys think on tempura? Well but they like to soak it in sauce. So it's sort of the combination of the crunchy and also the soggy.
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+[31:23] Yeah. It's not really only about the crisp. It's not my thing about peanut brittle oh no so what they're saying is is that they have a situation where where uh look i where they put stuff in the fridge and they're having uh they they want to know whether the the the environment in a fridge is adding is is adding moisture to or removing moisture from things. So you put it in a Ziploc bag so it's moisture neutral, but it it adds moisture to the skin by re-equilibrating. In general, fridges are a uh dehydr what?
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+[31:51] Yeah. I think they're moist. Yeah, freezers dehydrate, right? And fridges, you get a lot of recondensation of crap on them. You know, I th I because the thing is like I think if you it depends on the fan speed.
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+[32:03] Like I in in a in some of the pro fidge fridges I've used that have a fan speed that's too high on the circulation, you can get a real pellicle on the outside. I think a lot I think a lot depends on a lot. You know what I mean? Well, it depends on the ingredient too, I think. Because if you're you know, if you put chicken thighs on a rack, they're gonna dry out a little bit.
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+[32:20] The surface is gonna dry out in no matter the fridge. But if you throw peanut brittle in the fridge, the sugar's gonna absorb all the moisture in the air. Right. Well, you know, that's uh even like in the sealed they this is why like you're never supposed to store coffee and and chocolate and what this in in the fridge. There are several reasons, but but to me the reason isn't necessarily that the sucker's gonna get moist while it's in the fridge, it's that as soon as you pull it out, you're gonna get condensation from the air and you're toasted, unless you live in Arizona.
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+[32:47] You know what I mean? Mm-hmm. So that it makes that makes all the sense in the world. Yeah. No, no, but again, you know, you know, peanut brittle, yeah.
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+[32:59] I would I would use desiccant in a in in a closed container at you know room temperature or in the in the truck. No, a hundred percent. Yeah, desiccant's the way to go, or vac sealed. You know what I mean? Vac sealed in a hard container or you know, vac sealed in a uh in mason jars if you don't have access to a hard container that can hold a vacuum.
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+[33:18] Hey, here's another one for you on refrigerators and moisture content. If it's some uh of the hardcore, in fact, I think all the hardcore Japanese sushi chefs, I only talked to one of them, you know, when he was uh years ago when he came to the FCI. Uh, those guys all have commercial refrigerators and then they're they've never plugged them in, not one time. Uh they just throw giant block of ice into the bottom of the fridge and then keep their fish in there because they want to maintain the temperature, but they don't want the air circulation to mess with the water content at the surface. Presumably, I guess they don't want it to, I would say in the f in a case of fish with very high moisture product, you know, they want to dry and by the way, you know, now that we're now that we're talking about it, you're talking about peanut brittle, which has a moisture content below probably six percent, right?
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+[34:04] Like once it's cooked up, when you say it's like below six, and a fish which has a content probably above eighty or around eighty. You know what I mean? 75 to 80. So, you know, if the fridge is anywhere in between those things, it's gonna shaft both of them. That is true, but peanut butter brittle crusted fish is tasty.
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+[34:23] Yeah, is I've never tried it for real? So it was a made like a peanut brittle and put it on on on uh homachy and then baked it in place. Smoked peanut brittle. And does it does it form like a little snappy like uh you know, like crocante thing on the outside? Yeah, not not quite as crocante as you'd want, but you get that the nice texture of the uh the peanut brittle, the sh uh the the the second, you know, the caramelized the second time.
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+[34:46] You get the nice toasty notes, and then we we use smoke peanut brittle. So anything smoked tastes better. Uh smoked peanuts are in fact delicious. And while we're on the subject of peanuts, I just want to give a shout out to uh the Virginia peanut. Virginia peanut, and the uh you know, I don't get anything from the Virginia peanut people.
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+[35:03] But if you've never Virginia peanut, by the way, it's a variety. It's uh it's a type of peanut. And there's people from uh, you know, North Carolina and South Carolina will tell you that the that the Virginia peanuts that are grown there are just as good, if not better than the ones grown in Virginia. However, it is called a Virginia peanut. That's all I'm gonna say about that.
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+[35:19] But Virginia peanuts, you guys play with Virginia Peanuts at all. No, we have not that I know of. Holy crap. You need to go buy yourself a high quality bat batch of Virginia peanuts. Cause once you have a Virginia peanut, you're like, I can't believe I've been eating this other drek, no offense, planters.
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+[35:35] I can't believe I've been eating this other drek for so long. Virginia peanut is just a superior product. Taste, texture. You know how like a really good Frankfurter has that snap when you bite into it, and you're like, damn, that's what a good Frankfurter tastes like. You know what I'm saying?
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+[35:49] As soon as you bite into one of these giant Virginia peanuts, a good one that's properly roasted and everything, it's like pop, it snaps, it's so awesome. Virginia peanuts. Smoke those suckers. Yeah, get some Virginia peanuts. I got an easy one here for you.
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+[36:02] Uh Mike uh Chicheski, uh by the way, Mike, thank you for phonetically writing out your name. At first I thought it was like some strange name that I can say, oh, he's helping me with the phonetics, because he write Chachevsky. Mike Czecheski writes in about ham hocks. Hello everyone, question about cooking ham hocks. I usually braze uh in a typical uh mirapoi slash water stuff, uh my ham hocks so that the meat gets tender enough that I can pick it off the bone and shred it.
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+[36:26] However, I find that much of the smoky, salty pork flavor is too often leached into the breezing liquid. Do you have a recommended cooking method which will render the meat tender but not rob it of its characteristic uh smoke and flavor? Thanks, Mike Czecheski. Yes, put that sucker in a bag and cook it. Um you might want to add a little bit of liquid because it takes an unbelievably long time to uh render out collagen if there's not a little bit of excess moisture um in with the product.
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+[36:57] Uh but it does it does not take much. Uh and uh pressure steam it actually. So it'll be the fastest way. Oh yeah, that's true. Yeah.
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+[37:04] So you put it uh the hawks into you know, a bowl inside your pressure cooker and then and do it then do it that way. You'll have them forty five minutes of perfectly broken down, tear the butches out of 'em, and you go from there. But they'd be salty. Bang. I mean this they have they they won't be salty.
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+[37:21] Yeah, but if you're gonna shred it and use it as an ingredient, it doesn't matter. You know what I'm saying? Do you remember when they used to sell I'm dating myself here, but they used to sell this plastic bag full of seasonings and you would like stick your pork chops and some liquid in them and tie the bag shut and bake them in the oven. Is that like sh not is that like shake and bake? Is it some sort of shake and bake very shake and bake, but it wasn't because it was sort of like this this brace and the bag would puff up in the oven and it would just anyway.
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+[37:48] That sounds fun. You know, when I when I was a kid, you know how like every twenty years or so there's a renaissance of paper bag cooking? Yeah, and I have paper bag uh cookbooks that date back to like the teens. Um, you know, Alexis Sawyer, the famous uh English uh chef, well, French English chef who wrote the gastronomic regenerator in the eighteen hundreds and was kind of like, you know, extremely well known. M FK Fisher loved his stuff.
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+[38:14] His grandson, I think it's in the teens, wrote a book on paper bag cooking that I own. So that comes back. So the only bag stuff I used to do is we used to do I used to do paper bag chicken like once a week. Like that was my jam. When I was a kid in the seventies, like that was like, you know, uh once a week, like I would handle dinner and I would bust out the paper bag chicken, you know, complete with you know all the 70s crap you had in here.
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+[38:35] I would rub it with the butter like you're supposed to, and put the you know, crappy, you know, curry powder from the from the Grand Union on top of it, and shove that sucker in a paper bag and go. You know? That was my stuff back then. And brownies. No one messes with my brownies, man.
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+[38:51] Those are the things I cooked when I was a kid. Um when are you gonna mix brownies? Well, here's the problem. Now that I'm older and I think more about it, it's like, you know, what kind of brownie do you want? Do you want the dense brownie?
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+[39:02] Are you a dense or a fluff? Right. Dense, chewy. I like chewy. Okay, are you a cocoa powder or a chocolate brownie?
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+[39:08] I'm a mix. I used to hate cocoa powder. I was a ch I was a full chocolate brownie because that was my my great grandma and my grandma's recipe was a chocolate brownie. And then I like cocoa. Yeah, right.
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+[39:18] That I learned later about the cocoa brownie. I don't like a hundred percent cocoa brownie because the texture is always weird to me on a hundred percent cocoa brownie. I guess I could just add more fat. Whatever. I don't know.
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+[39:27] So now I do a mix. Anyway. So you like the Rolo inclusion, actually, into the brownie. You like what? A Rolo inclusion.
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+[39:34] Rolo the brown. I have not heard the word or thought about Rollos in decades. Rolos. Do they still they still make rollos? They sure do we do damage to rollers in this house.
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+[39:49] Alright, listen, listen. Stas is a is a candy aficionado. What are your thoughts on Rollos? Yeah? Pro, you're pro Rolo?
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+[39:55] Oh my god. Ideas and food have found something that Nastasha enjoys. The Rolo. I might have to go out. Do you okay?
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+[40:01] Do you like the fro you like frozen candy? Remember the Charleston chew to used to freeze those suckers? Oh, you shatter it. Yeah. Have you powdered Charleston Chew with nitrogen?
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+[40:08] No. Good. Wouldn't that be awesome? That would be good. Well, now I'm thinking about Rolos.
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+[40:13] Would roll those be good frozen? Yeah, they'd be able to do that. Yeah, they are good. Yeah, that's where we're going to be able to do that. But they'll break your cheese.
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+[40:20] Yeah, well, you know, that's why that's why you can go to the dentist and get new ones. That's what Stas does all the time. She like put puts a dentist through uh kids through college every day. The kid the dentist can have a new kid every day and put it through college the way Stas gives that person money. Anyway.
+
+[40:30] Um we have another question in. Uh by the way, uh, thanks for that pressure cooker tip. I don't know why the hell I didn't think of that. We were just talking about pressure cookers and everything. I didn't think of pressure cooker.
+
+[40:42] This is why it's useful to have uh guests on the program. You know what I'm saying? I provide nothing. Uh what? Uh oh anyway.
+
+[40:49] So we have another question in. Uh Nick, who's writing in from Seoul Korea, uh, has a couple of questions, a couple of statements and then a question about halloumi. I actually like Halloumi, but you know, in my neighborhood, uh what we'll talk about in a second. Okay. Uh thanks for addressing my tofu questions a couple of weeks ago.
+
+[41:04] Uh the tofu soup which you uh suddenly developed a hankering for is uh Sundubu uh G guy. I cannot pronounce any uh words in any language except for German. Uh which I actually only Austrian German. I was uh did I tell this story on the air? I went to Austria uh a little while ago and I told I said this story on the air?
+
+[41:22] Anyway, yeah, so I can do Austrian accents because I listened to too many Arm Force Negro movies growing up. Anyway, uh Dubu is a Korean iteration for what is known in the West as tofu and uh J guy's umami rich soup, often made with feisty elements and served in boiling clay pots. By the way, I love myself. The clay pots aren't my favorite. I love the tollsot, the uh the the stone bowls.
+
+[41:43] I have nine of them. I have nine of them at my house. And they like if it wasn't for liability issues, every Applebee's in or TGI Fridays in the US would be serving everything in these hot stone bowls because hot stone bowl plus a little bit of oil, some rice, anything you have in your fridge and an egg on top is delicious. Delicious. Um I'm surprised that this thing's harmful.
+
+[42:05] Is there a brand of of hot stone bowls that you like? Well, there no I've never had a br I've never seen a brand on them. I just, you know, I go to the big bowl.com. Yeah, you go in there and you buy them. There's there's there's three fundamental sizes, and I have like some of each, like the big one, and you know, I've only ever had one fail on me, and it didn't 100% fail, but it's developed cracks.
+
+[42:27] I can still use it if I have to. But they develop an amazing kind of patina over time. Um I, you know, this my standard procedure, they're made of a rock that may or may not contain asbestos. Uh they call a I think serpentine or something like this. And uh, you know, you put it on your burner, and literally I put it right on my burner and I just shoot it with an IR until it hits uh 600, 615 Fahrenheit, then I kill all the burners and just ladle a little oil into them, smack the rice in, and done.
+
+[42:58] I mean, like literally, like if someone's if like a bunch of people are coming over and you know, I just need something to be good now. I do the quick cook on my rice cooker, 20 minutes out while that's cooking. I blast out like you know, whatever I have in my fridge, I'll cut it up, make some sort of quick sauce, bang, done. Like if everyone should own a set of the hot stone bowls, uh, in my opinion. Anyway, okay, so back to the question.
+
+[43:21] Um, but that technique with the burning rice doesn't work as well on the clay pots because the clay pots can't hold nearly as much uh energy as those stone bowls can. Um you don't get the crust. No. No, not with rice. I mean, look, they're great.
+
+[43:34] I like the I have a couple of the clay pots too, but I I thought I could get them because they're like a third of the price or less of the stone. And I thought that like I could get away doing, you know, the uh the rice trick in the clay pot, and it just wasn't the same. So then I was like, Well, I'll take the clay pot so that my guest can have the crunchy rice. I was like, you know, crap on it. I will just go buy more stone bowls.
+
+[43:53] And so that's what I've done. Um okay. So then he adds, I've just had uh landed uh Andrea and Wynn's book. Do you have that book on tofu? Is that good?
+
+[44:00] Yes, it's a good book. Okay. Uh and the book of tofu, the short leaf one, the famous shirt leaf one, uh, is en route. Once I get my basic tofu skill, uh tofu making skills down, I hope to experiment with mixing in some non-traditional flavors into the soy milk as well as working and some textual surprises. I also look forward to making tofu skins, which I've done.
+
+[44:16] That is great. I you know what I really the amazing thing about uh making um you know tofu skins, yuba, is uh is the difference in the first couple skins and that tasting them as they go down. I've never had to do it kind of uh on mask. I've never done it for an event. I just do it for myself at home, but like tasting the difference in the sheets as they come off, isn't that kind of like an like a fun, fun, awesome thing to do?
+
+[44:37] You guys you guys like that, right? That's awesome, no? I mean, there's no. So stuff's good. Well, we haven't yet.
+
+[44:48] We might have to do that. Yeah, you should do it. We won't be shortly, apparently. You should do it. Uh, like the first couple that come uh off are like a much darker color and they have a completely different flavor because of the first stuff, I guess it settles up to the top and then they change as they as they go down, and um, you know, just like you know, warm with some uh you know, some sort of salty crap put over the top of them, they're delicious.
+
+[45:10] Okay, anyway. Um I also look forward to making tofu skins, cut the way handmade soba slice, they'd make wonderful gluten-free noodles. Eh, I never thought about that. And I've never seen one chunk of tofu that's not stored in water here in Korea. I think every commercial, everywhere, every country people store it commercially in water.
+
+[45:26] I just happen to not like to not do that. I happen to make it right before I'm gonna eat it, and then I just eat it without ever leaching all of the stuff out with water. Uh my guess here is folks uh like their tofu mild and subtle. Uh I have another question for you today. So that was just a statement.
+
+[45:39] I have another question for you today. Can you explain the science behind grilling cheeses such as halloumi or finish and it's gonna kill me? Lipae giusto. Uh which I don't, I'm not familiar with that. I'm familiar with Halloumi.
+
+[45:44] And uh and oh, you might not be familiar with this because if you don't live in an area that has lots of Latin markets, uh queso queso potafrier is a version of uh queso blanco, which is firmer even than queso blanco, and you can deep fry that sucker without a crust. It's even more kind of resilient than uh Halloumi is. But anyway, uh what keeps them from melting with heated or or would it be possible to achieve this non-melting property with other cheeses? Thanks, Nick. Um so the the main the main thing about Halloumi is that uh they cook the ever-loving crap out of uh out of halloumi.
+
+[46:24] Um and so a lot of the water is out of it uh when it's done, and then they salt the hell out of it. So I think that's the main function of the stabilization of Halloumi, which I I happen, you know, I like I like it a lot. But first they they do um after they make uh the curd, the initial curd. So halloumi I believe is rented. That's what I could get off of the internet.
+
+[46:45] It's reneted, and then they cut the curd into small pieces, like you know, uh very s fairly small pieces, and then they cook it um to like uh 90, not like in the 90s Celsius, and then uh dump whey on top. They they heat the whey to pull the proteins out so they can make some ricotta-like thing, and then uh they heat it in in in this and press the crap out of it, like press the ever-loving crap out of it, heat it, and then put the blocks in salted whey. So, like all of those things are like hyper-stabilizing the cheese and giving it that kind of rubbery texture. Whereas queso blanco um is uh acid coagulated, but then also acid coagulated very hot and then salted while it's hot, which means that it's gonna be giving up a lot of its moisture. And I think that that's basically all there is to it.
+
+[47:29] I don't think there's any way to make an actual cheese unmeltable unless you've cooked the curds before you pressed it out. You guys ever made a cheese un well okay you could make a you could do it with gels. Mozzarella noodles. Right, you're using a but you're you're you're what you did it with regular mozzarella. Why don't you describe the process?
+
+[47:48] Yeah so we uh we uh we puree mozzarella with a little bit of ricotta and we add activa originally we started with yg uh which gives it a nice cheesy note to it again that's the addition of the yeast extract to the YG. Right. You can actually use TI and then we we we spread it thin on acetate sheets, let it set overnight and then you can cut the noodles and they you can boil them and you have these beautiful again you cut them you cut them like tagglatils. We make mozzarella tagliatail. So it's just as stable as uh as like the gelatin uh the gelatin noodles are the ones that are uh set with gelatin and and uh TI I would think so yeah I mean we we've again you're just you've got the they're they're they're they're awesome.
+
+[48:29] We've got a nice little authentic bite to them but it tastes just like mozzarella. Uh and then we did it with we did it with feta too and it made feta cubes. So we made you know and and we're able to you know saute you know big chunks of feta deep fry you know deep fry them stuff like that. Right so what they're talking about is uh an enzyme transglutaminase and transglutaminase has the property that it covalently binds uh proteins together in this case uh primarily I'm assuming you're using whole milk ricotta not the actual other stuff so there's a lot of casein present uh and the casein in fact, casein, the protein, casein from milk, is the protein that's added to uh most uh the the activa that that is most used uh in um in the biz is activa rm, which is a just a combination of activa, the ends uh or of transglutaminase the enzyme and of uh casein, milk protein. So it's just casein on casein action.
+
+[49:20] It should work. You said it does work with RM, right? It w it works only gen uh not as much. And uh we we use YG. Right designed for raw dairy applications, and then we s we in a pinch we did TI.
+
+[49:31] T I works as well, because again we're pureeing it in, so you don't need a protein bridge like you'd have in RM or even in the YG. I'm s I'm super surprised that uh the RM doesn't work 'cause it's just more casein. I wonder why. No, but that what it it doesn't work as well because there's half as much transglutaminase in the guy. Y G has a high level T I okay, so here's the deal.
+
+[49:49] T I is and I don't know if they still have a kosher app on it, because remember you can't have a kosher RM because it's milk, and so they assume that you it's milk protein, so they're assuming you're binding meat with it and you can't bind meat with milk. That would be a kosher no no. But they made T I which is just transglutaminase and maltodextrin. T I has a higher enzymatic activity per gram than RM does, but I did not know that YG also has a higher enzymatic activity. Yeah, it's it's uh it's a hundred uh parts per million as opposed to fifty.
+
+[50:21] Hmm for the w for the RM. And so and you don't want to double up on the RM because you start getting uh off off blah blahs or something, or or just then you No, I again I don't think it even crossed our mind really is what it was. I mean we st we s we so we summed across RM and we we saw we it started up years ago with we wanted to make flourless ricotta nudie or gnocchi. Uh and and we we were we're working with that and we you know called the folks at Achin Moto and chatting with them and said we're doing this. Uh we're gonna do try it with RM.
+
+[50:48] And they're like, Well, I well got this new product out there called YG. It was designed for dairy applications, blah, blah, blah. Right. I'm not very patient, so they they were gonna send us to YG, but I already had some RM, so we started playing with it. And the the RM sets up nicely, but the YG sets up a little bit more firmly.
+
+[51:06] Uh and it has a has a uh a more uh a fuller flavor. And that full flavor is actually coming from the yeast extract that's also part of the YG formulation that was designed for the dairy applications. Cool. Uh by the way, back to I don't recommend using RM, which is a casein uh protein helper on uh gelatin. I find it doesn't set as well when you're doing the gelatin noodle trick with the RM, presumably because you really just want to link gelatin to gelatin and not gelatin to casein.
+
+[51:33] Uh I don't know if you guys have also had that uh experience. We have uh actually not got not gone deep into the the gelatin noodle thing because I don't know why. I think we just uh we what we saw we saw it was done. It's going on two other hours. Right.
+
+[51:49] So not uh not Harold McGee, we have a question in for hard water, but uh William McGee at Los Neko writes in is listening and says, I live in Plano, uh Texas. Are there any are there any times cooking or using hard water is beneficial? Sure, making uh making alkaline noodles, uh it can be helpful, right? Yeah, that is there anything else? Cooking cooking cooking broccoli so it doesn't get mushy.
+
+[52:14] I mean I uh Yeah maybe you what else? Uh yeah, I don't know. Not much. I got nothing. Yeah.
+
+[52:20] I mean but it's Oh, unless you unless unless unless you're just encapsulating things and you're just dropping things right into it. Right. I mean, uh most hard water is probably fairly basic, right? So it may be good for I mean, I don't know. I mean, I know it's b it's alkaline and hard water that was the original well water used to make the noodles that were then substituted later for consway, but I don't really know the pH of the water in Plano.
+
+[52:43] I don't know. So it might not even be helpful for the for the noodles because the the noodles isn't a calcium thing. The noodles is really a pH thing. Uh so probably just stopping broccoli from getting mushy or something like that, right? Anyway.
+
+[52:58] Um, Aaron Will wrote in saying whole shrimp was used. We have induction only, so not a huge problem. Just curious. I'll push for a pressure cooker for many reasons, especially after you know, hearing the other tips about ham hocks and whatnot. Uh I got uh uh Nastash's giving the snack smack smack a smack up.
+
+[53:14] Um here's I got some questions in though that these guys are gonna want uh answered. Uh Chris McDaniel writes in uh any ideas for making caviar in quotes, i.e. the I guess the fake caviar with okra seeds. You guys ever done anything with ochra seeds? I guess maybe making them using the mucilage format.
+
+[53:30] Interesting. Yeah, I have not. We've never done it. I I mean I would imagine that you would soak it the way you I mean I wonder if you could take dried okra seeds and soak them the way you soak like basil seeds or something like that. Oh, and get them to puff up, get them to hydrate and puff up like that.
+
+[53:46] Get them to hydrate and give them a different flavor and kind of you know, or like mustard seeds, you'd make a but I think you probably have to start with dried seeds to start, you know, because how are you gonna That's interesting, we'll have to play with that. Yeah, yeah, we'll give it a the okra seeds they they uh I mean we've played around I mean you if you look at them years ago we we kind of cut okre up and looked at it and looks just like caviar. So you can kind of cook a a a stew of fresh ochra seeds, they get a little slimy and stuff like that. Again, it's just uh what kind of flavor do you want? Any way to kill the slime?
+
+[54:16] I exclusively eat okra, either fried, whole, or pickled. I never use it as a thickener. I'm not a big slime master. I don't have to big on the slime. I I could have sworn I saw you wearing that t-shirt.
+
+[54:28] The slime master? Well, different kinds. Different kind of slime. Xanthan. I like, you know, yeah, f hand me some Xanthan.
+
+[54:34] I'll snot up any s any sauce you got, I'll turn it to snot two seconds with Xanthan. That's my speciality. Um my goodness. Uh Jonathan Panzerman writes in, can you suggest a good stirred cocktail using blueberry for a large group, perhaps mostly advanced prep? Any tips?
+
+[54:47] Welcome. Stirred cocktail almost always you're gonna want to clarify them. So hopefully you have a uh an ability to clarify blueberry juice. Blueberries are usually fairly low on bricks and acid, so you're gonna need to do probably a pre-chill on it unless you uh dope it with so much sugar that you can use it as a simple syrup, but then you're not gonna have as much blueberry flavor in the finished product. We used to do one with uh mezcal uh lemon and uh I think it was lemon, mezcal lemon and uh blueberry, and a couple other things called melinche that was good.
+
+[55:16] But you guys ever done a stirred with blueberry? No, we've done we've had muddled, muddled with blueberry, which is you know, like a like a blueberry mash. So it's already been marinated up. Yeah. Another problem you're gonna have with blueberries is I hope you're not trying to get that dark blue color because sucker's gonna turn purple as soon as you go acid, uh, and you're gonna go acid because the blueberries already contain their own acid.
+
+[55:39] Um but you know, I would try, I mean, that's what we we used to do, uh a light, a lighter mezcal, uh mixed with tequila, blueberry, a little bit of sugar to augment because the bricks isn't so high on that, and that's it stirs very well, but it requires you to have a centrifuge. Otherwise, you could crush muddle strain. Um but you know, you in a stirred cocktail, the the big thing is you don't want it to be uh a soupy mess. You want it to be nice and uh clear um okay also uh christian uh spinilla wrote in have you guys been following uh you know they're gonna rip it rip me off the air in a minute, but you you know, you guys uh are familiar with the uh with the controversy over uh carrageenin and uh acid right you guys been I I get I get bothered about this quite a quite a bit you you know so for those of you listening out there there was some research uh and it's it's been around a long time that you don't want to uh use carrageenins in high acid systems that are heated uh for a long time and the reason being that the carrageenins can be degraded and that degraded carrageenin may be uh may cause uh may have some carcinogenic potential over time and may be an irritant to the stomach called degraded uh kerragena there's a more technical term but I don't forget it uh and then there's uh there's uh this this f it's group called cornucopia something that's been putting out all of these scientific papers I have a link to it which you can you know look on the tweets and tweeted it to me uh that you know there's a a new kind of push out against carrageenin and that you shouldn't use carrageenin and let me just say this uh the the work that was being put out there is kind of the the worst kind of scientific bunk I haven't had the time to figure out whether or not their actual points are right or wrong but the method of presentation is uh leads me to believe that the stuff i is wrong. They for instance use as scientific evidence that someone said I stopped eating carrageenin and then I stopped having the the fodding problems.
+
+[57:34] You know things like that. You know so kind of like post hoc ergopropter hoc arguments for the efficacy of removing carrageenin from your diet and they uh they focus almost exclusively on the research of a of a certain Dr. Tobachman who has had an axe to grind on carrageenin for a long, long, long, long time. And I think, you know, one of the things is that science is really, really like real science, not like, you know, like, you know, well, you know, what we, you know, what we, the people who are talking here, we you we use the results of science and you know we're voracious I'm I'm talking for you now, sorry. Voracious like consum consumers of this sort of thing.
+
+[58:11] But actual science is uh a lot different and you know it's extremely hard work and it's a lot of boring, boring, boring, boring keeping track of notes and and and really putting in the time to get your results right. And the key thing to being a really good scientist is to not start with uh with the feeling that your conclusions or your hypothesis is correct. You really have to test your hypothesis and all of the work that uh Dr. Tobachman uh has done that I've seen has led me to believe that she is completely colored by her uh her her her her mind is completely colored by her preconceived notions that carrageenan is this uh you know evil thing and let us not forget that most of the carrageenan we eat we eat in extremely small quantities in fact that is the reason carrageenin is used in dairy applications is because it can be used in extremely small quantities have you guys been following this sort of thing or heard any and like recent anti Carageenan rumblings and by the way it could be the worst thing in the world I just I I haven't had a chance to back it up. I just can say that the writing about it is is is poorly done and and it's done in a junk science way.
+
+[59:17] Why don't you why don't you guys have the last word on kerageenin and before you do it I'm gonna thank you for coming I really enjoyed having you I hope to have you again and I know the book is going to do extremely well go out and buy it everyone now your last words on carrageenan. Last words on carrageenan before I give that. Tomorrow we will actually be in New York City at the 92nd Street Y at seven o'clock with a cooking demo. So and book signing. So if people want to join us, they can come see us in person.
+
+[59:40] Where do they where do they get tickets? Tickets are on the YNTA's website, 92nd Street Y. Alright, so go to the go to 92nd Street Y. Shell out, shell out, whatever. What is it cost for them to go see it?
+
+[59:52] 25 bucks. I think it's $25. $25. That's like what it costs to go to a movie in popcorn now. Please go to the 92nd Street freaking Y, you know, and uh go see these guys uh uh tomorrow.
+
+[1:00:03] Okay, now Carrageenan. Carrageenan. Uh we just started seeing the rumblings of it. The the funny thing is is keragen and an acid really they don't get along at all. So I guess that's my my my biggest question there is is is why why are they mixing very often together?
+
+[1:00:18] Right. But yeah, but the well the point the point is the only time it could ever really be uh an issue if you if you know if the if the degraded carrageenan argument is right, is if you tried to make a high acid system with a boatload of carrageenin, and the only way to do that would be to overload it with carrageenin so that the carrageenin g doesn't get obliterated by the acid. Which you would never eat too much carrageenin anyway. Right, which you would never do. Which you which you would never do.
+
+[1:00:41] Right. You know, and the their other argument is that you know that the kerragen can get degraded in your stomach to become degraded carrageenin is bunk because uh the there's you know a very limited transit time and and bless you and and you and you need a certain amount of heat in order for the degradation to take place. You're not getting acid hydrolysis of carrageenin at body temperature, but i i in the transit time that it's in your in your stomach. But you know, that's that that don't that's just me reading the scientific literature. Don't take it to mean anything.
+
+[1:01:11] You know what I mean? Uh so when when you when you dive deep into this one, please let us know what the answer is. Alright, cool. Cool. Alright, thanks so much.
+
+[1:01:22] It's been a good time. Cooking issues. Thank you. Alrighty. We'll talk to you soon.
+
+[1:01:27] Alright, cool. Bye bye. Bye. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[1:01:46] You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network dot org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Underground Meats, an American producer of handcrafted salami and cured meats in Madison, Wisconsin. For more information, visit shop.undergroundfoodcollective.org or stop by their butcher shop in Madison, Wisconsin. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick, Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network dot org for thousands more. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:35] This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from Robertus Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn. As always, Nastasha the Hammer Lopez joining me in the studio. How you doing? Yeah. And Jack and Joe in the Engineering Booth, how are you guys doing?
+
+[0:47] We're doing well. Yeah? Nice. So listen, how many uh how much longer do we have to go on the uh on the Kickstarter there on the HACCP Kickstarter, the underground uh collective's uh great question, I'll get right back to you. Yeah, let's figure that out.
+
+[1:00] Because remember, what they're trying to do here with this Kickstarter and uh is to create a HACCP plan. Now, not a HACCP plan for restaurants, although you could use it at a restaurant, but not not just for restaurants, which is a much simpler thing, but a verified HACCP um then verified HACC plan for doing cured meats. Uh and verified means that the uh protocol has been tested and verified by an independent lab and accepted such that uh anyone could use this HACCP plan for um uh rating themselves to do uh, you know, USDA approved uh curing of meats. And it's very expensive process, normally tens of thousands of dollars. And what they're doing is they're gonna pay for theirs, but then make it uh available for everyone to use on you know, everyone to use, and therefore kind of an open source HACC plan, which is a fantastic good idea.
+
+[1:52] So uh either Jack or Joe is gonna get back to us with how they're doing it. I'm ready. What do you got? It's passed. Successfully raised its goal three months ago.
+
+[1:59] Three days ago, sorry. Three days. How much longer do you still have to give them money? Zero seconds. Oh man.
+
+[2:05] Yeah, three days ago is an uh so they raised just just shy of 50,000 uh for their forty thousand dollar goal. So congratulations. All right, well, congratulations to them, and I'm sorry we didn't get to pump it once more, but uh I'm glad they made it. Yeah? Yeah.
+
+[2:20] I missed it. I was gonna contribute and I missed it. Crap. Uh all right. We have some questions in.
+
+[2:25] Call in your questions to 7184972128. That's 7184972128. Had a good time last week with the ideas and food people, huh? Yeah, they were good. Yeah.
+
+[2:32] Uh what are we doing today? What why don't we tell them what what uh what our day is like today? What we're gonna do. Pizza. Yeah, we're gonna have a pizza.
+
+[2:39] I'm thinking we're gonna get the Robertus Greens uh related pizza, right? But I really meant more in terms of uh the Martha Stewart event. I know, I know. Well uh bar meeting. Okay, yes, we're having a bar meeting.
+
+[2:49] Yeah, okay, yeah, that's what I think people made products. Yeah. And it's kind of cool. Yeah. It's in Grand Central.
+
+[2:58] So we're doing a cocktail uh as usual, and uh we're using a particular apple called uh a Wixen, uh it's called a Wixen crab apple, even though I don't believe it's actually a crab apple. I believe it's a regular domestic apple. I'll have to look that up. Maybe you guys look that up for me. Uh Wixen apple.
+
+[3:13] Uh but it's very small, which is why it's called a crab. I believe it's originally from California, hence American made. Not just grown in America, but a real American apple, ooh. Except for that's right, California. Yeah, but which is unusual, actually.
+
+[3:27] Most of the apple varieties that, you know, the old or or it's not that old that this one, but a lot of the famous apple varieties are uh, you know, I don't yeah, all you know, apologies to folks from Washington and the Pacific Northwest who think they grow, you know, all the great apples. But most of the great apple varieties come from the East Coast and the North. And uh but Wixen is a fantastic little apple because it has a very, very high sugar content and a very, very high um acid content. And what that means, it's extremely friendly for cocktails. Uh so um, you know, much so you can use like much less of it, have a much higher uh flavor profile.
+
+[4:02] Another apple that does that that's not American is the Ashmead's kernel, which I hope to get very soon. You're gonna get some from John Riper. Yeah? Yeah, you're just Ash Mead's kernel from Out West. Mm-hmm.
+
+[4:11] Whoa. I've never had an Ash Mead's kernel from Out West. I've had them from England, I've had them from New York, I've had them from New Hampshire, but I've never had them from uh all right, so we'll try a Western Ash Mead's kernel. Ash Meats kernel was discovered sometime in the first decade of the uh 1700s in England. Also a very high sugar and acid a uh apple and just really just a real both the Wixen, the Wixen also has not just high acid and sugar, but a very nice flavor, a kind of spicy.
+
+[4:34] It makes a light, light, light, light pink juice that's really uh pretty. Ashmeads kernel makes uh a yellow juice, uh 'cause it's not a red fleshed apple, a red skinned apple, and uh just a fantastic juice. So we'll use that in a little bit. But the drink we're making with Wixen today is we're taking um well today we're using Micters, and we're making a similar drink tomorrow with maker's mark, but a whiskey. Uh is the Micters the rye or the bourbon that we're using?
+
+[4:57] Bourbon. So bourbon in both cases. And we're the problem with mixing a fantastic apple like Wixen, uh Wixen crab apple. The w uh the problem with mixing it with uh straight whiskey, uh, and then also the problem that if you're gonna carbonate it, which we are, uh the problem is that the oak, all of the oak extractives in the whiskey really just ride roughshod over the top of the apple variety, and they don't marry well, and it just becomes a big confusing mess, uh, or cordal you, as my son Booker puts it. He calls any kind of mess a cordile U after the uh I don't know if it's I don't want to get into it.
+
+[5:29] Anyway, so the uh so you what we do is we have to strip out some of that oak and we put it through a process we call detannining. And the way we do it is we add various charged um charged uh ingredients to the uh to the to the thing that agglomerate some of that oak and then we filter it out. The easiest one, the one we're doing for this, is we take chitosan. Uh kitosan is uh now now my brain's erased. Kitosan is positively charged, I think, hydrocolloid, uh derived from usually from shrimp shells, although within the next couple of years we'll have fungally available chitosans.
+
+[6:04] Uh I always forget which one's positive, which one's negative with my brain's gone. Anyway, so we add uh we add some of that to the uh to the uh bourbon, we let we shake it up, we let it sit around uh sit around a while. Then, now here's the trick. We want to suck out the chitosan and also suck out uh the uh tannins and the oak extractives that are bound to the chitosan. So I don't want to add something that is um that dissolves.
+
+[6:29] I want to add instead something that just swells a little bit but has a high surface area. So I add high acyl gel-in, that's calcal gel F, which is a hydrocolloid that is oppositely charged from chitosan, but won't dissolve in the liquor. And you just add it and shake it, and it turns milky, and you keep shaking it, and you shake it over the course of a couple of hours, three or four times, and when that stuff settles out, you don't even need a centrifuge. You just pour this stuff off, and you have uh whiskey that has been had some of uh the kind of harshness of it removed. And I have more aggressive techniques that use gelatin, but they're extremely aggressive.
+
+[7:02] Like it comes out, you know, you know, too neutral for my taste. We then take that, we mix it with Wixen, uh, a little bit of water, carbonate it, and bueno, right? Yeah, it's good, right? It's a good product. Anyway, that's what we're making today for it's not called Taste of Martha.
+
+[7:16] What's it called? American made. American made? Yeah, Taste of Martha. How many drinks are we making for that thing?
+
+[7:23] Uh eight bottles worth of Victor's bourbon. So what is this? This is the opening. It's the opening party for the there's some sort of festival or awards or some crap, right? Do we know anyone that's winning awards?
+
+[7:34] No, we don't. It's all like little small mom and pop vendors. We don't know any of those? I feel like we should know all of those. Like I saw a quilt maker when I was up there.
+
+[7:42] Oh, quilt. I don't know. Yeah, I don't know anything about quilts. Do you know anything about quilts? My mom quilts.
+
+[7:46] Too far I hate it. Strong. Okay. Uh got one in from Zach in Pittsburgh. Hey, Zach.
+
+[7:54] Uh how you're doing. Uh how yeah, I like that. How you're doing. Uh, what's the deal with canned black olives? Why are they terrible?
+
+[8:02] How come we live in a time when every grocery store has an olive bar with decent oil and salt cured olives? Many restaurants continue to put these black balls of disgusting on their salads. I like how it's a black just a black ball of disgusting. It's not even an olive, not a black ball of disgusting olive, just a black ball of disgusting. Uh Zach, you're forgetting the sliced discs of disgusting that go on top of the nachos.
+
+[8:25] Um how do we defeat the canned black olive menace? Thanks, Zach in Pittsburgh. So, first of all, I've never literally have never spoken to uh Nastasia about uh Nastasia, about uh this olive uh style. And since she is from California, land of the California uh style olives. So, what are your thoughts on canned black California olives?
+
+[8:47] I really don't like them, but I had them on pizza on Saturday, so I can eat them. You can eat them, but you I don't like it. Have you always not liked them? Yes. Yeah?
+
+[8:55] But you like olives. So you're not one of these people that just doesn't like olives. Yes. Yeah. Alright.
+
+[8:59] Well, for those of you like them? Uh okay. Okay. Listen, don't anyone get angry at me. They they they're they're they're bad product, right?
+
+[9:11] They're not a good product. Okay, let's just put it that way. Uh I don't mind them. You know what I mean? It's like, here's my feeling.
+
+[9:17] And Zach, stick with me here. Don't like switch off the radio and run screaming. If you think about them as if they were an olive, then they're horrible. You know what I mean? It's a horrible thing.
+
+[9:29] Do you know what I mean? Yeah. If all you're thinking about it is kind of like a squidgy, somewhat oily black texture blobule, right? Then I'd say it's better than a lot of the uh, you know, hydrocolloid tricks that people pull. And it's just it's just like a little textural thing.
+
+[9:50] It has like a like a slight flavor. Um, and so I I find them theoretically offensive, right? And I uh in in most applications, I would rather have a real olive, you know, but uh I don't I don't think that they're I don't think that well, maybe they are an abomination that should be erased, but I don't mind them somehow. You know what I'm saying? What are they are they olives?
+
+[10:15] Yeah, okay. So let's talk about how they're made. In fact, you can look up uh there's uh UC Davis put out I love UC Davis. I love I freaking love UC Davis. Uh they put out a uh a technical bulletin uh called Olives Safe Methods for Home Pickling that you can get a PDF of.
+
+[10:31] There's also uh an online PDF available called uh California Olives Processing the Crop that goes through the technical uh literature on how to um make California style black olives. But should you be a moron enough to want to make California style black olives with the olives that come off of your tree in your backyard? UC Davis tells you how to do it, which I freaking love, right? They also tell you how to make real olives. So the the deal with all olives when they come off the tree is they're very high in a substance called and I can't pronounce it, everyone who know who listens knows that I can't pronounce it a damn thing.
+
+[11:03] Is uh oleuropene, which is an extremely uh bitter uh compound that's in all in olives that is water soluble. So the trick of all curing techniques, right, is to leach out or get rid of a certain quality of that oleuropene, right, to make the uh olives palatable. So in a salt cured olive, traditional old school salt cured olive, you just take and pack the olives in salt, moisture leaches out as a result. The moisture carries with it a large amount of the oleeropine and it drips down in in the thing, and then boop, and you have to wait a long time, right? Oil cured uh salt cured olives.
+
+[11:39] Uh then you can rinse off the salt and pack them in oil, whatever you want. Uh brine cured olives, right? Typically, what you do even before you add the the brine, you'll crack the olive so that more you know because the skin is not so easy to penetrate. And then uh you'll put it in a water solution, and the water will leach out the oleuropine. And so what they'll do is they'll change the water like once a day for, you know, depending on how much bitterness you want to extract.
+
+[12:03] You want to leave some of it in, the more you extract, kind of not only bitterness but other flavors are gone, so you lose more flavor as you go, right? Then after you're done with that, you then uh can put it in a brine solution, a salt solution, and do a straight uh fermentation of it, make kind of a delicious fermented olive, or if you're puny, or if you like this, you can just add a vinegar solution to it, and that will prevent further fermentation, and you have more of a pickled olive, right? So those are kind of the things. Now, all of these things take time. And what do the California olive producers not want?
+
+[12:35] To take time. They don't want to take time. So they have this genius, well, genius, this technology called lye processing. So they're using lye, it's another use of lye in in the kitchen. So lye, uh the you know, the basic solution lye, breaks down uh the oleropine and makes it easy to extract.
+
+[12:52] So once the lye gets in there, it wipes it out in a couple of days. They can go through the entire procedure, right? Instead of weeks, they can do the entire procedure from uh you know harvest to uh in a can in like in like 10 days, like seven to ten days, right? And here's here's how it works. First of all, uh so they they don't have enough production facilities to um to do olives to do all the olives at harvest time.
+
+[13:19] And in fact, it doesn't make economic sense. They want to do harvesting throughout the year. So California olives, what happens is they're picked and they're put in uh vats, but they're not even put in salt brine vats anymore. They used to put them in salt brine vats to keep them static so that nothing happened to them. They didn't want them to ferment or change because it's not what they're looking for.
+
+[13:37] They're not looking for fermented and changed, they're looking for a bland neutral California black olive. So what they do, and by the way, they're not picked black, they're picked at what's called the green ripe stage, which is ripe, but it's it's green, it hasn't turned black yet, even though olives will turn black on the tree. Blackish purple. Fermenthocyan. It's actually our good buddy anzocyanins, or what's doing that.
+
+[13:55] So, anywho, so they're green and they're stored in this salt brine. But people are like, well, look, you know, people are getting mad at us because we're dumping all this salt into the earth, right? It's bad. So they now literally just store it in giant vats, tons, like 20 ton vats of uh a mix of lactic acid, acetic acid, which is vinegar, and uh benzoate and sorbate to keep any sort of yeast or bacteria from growing. It's so it's in a preservative brine, uh not even a brine, a preservative acid bath.
+
+[14:21] And it can stay there for like a freaking year for for a long time. Although apparently, according to the processing the crop PDF, premium quality California olives are usually processed before July. Now remember, that's freaking July. So they're sitting in a static bath since I don't know, when are they harvest? Like November or whatever, around then, right?
+
+[14:40] Okay. So you get them out of this brine thing, right? And then they put them, they used to do it as as a as a processing. Now they just have kind of like uh automatic tanks that can do it, big automatic tanks that can do it. So you dump it in a tank and you you flush it with lye, right?
+
+[14:53] Now, here's the trick. You need to keep give it like a bunch of different uh lye baths. So you drain off the lye and you add more lye, drain off the lye and add more lye. And in between, and during that process, you're bubbling air through it, right? And it's the air added to the uh olives along with the lye breaks stuff down, right, and makes more of the polyphenolic compounds in the olives available to kind of agglomerate, and you add air and the oxygen helps them oxidize, and that's what makes the black color of the olive, is the air.
+
+[15:22] So if you were to do a live treatment with no air, right, then you would not have a black olive. And in fact, the UC Davis uh document, when you're making, if you should ever want to go home and make the California black olives yourself, what you do is you put the lye in it and then you uh drain it and let it be exposed to air for a while, then add more lye. Pop, bop, bop, bop, bop, bop, bop, b, bump. So you keep lying it and you cut them open and you look, and as soon as the lye hits the pit, you've leached out enough of the oleuropene. It's much faster than it is, much faster than any of the other techniques.
+
+[15:48] But it also uh gets rid of almost all of the old European, meaning it has almost no bitterness left, and uh as a side benefit, leaches out almost all the characteristic flavors of the olives, so you have the tasteless padlum left, right? Now it goes through a rinsing procedure to get rid of the uh to get rid of the lye, and they have accelerated mixing systems with air that blasts the stuff out. Now you got rid of the lye with water, they dump all that crap, then uh they do a light brine solution, and they have to brine it, they have to get the brine solution you know up in increments, otherwise the olive will shrivel, and then they can that sucker at a high, high, high pressure. Oh, uh it it it before canning, uh they add a little bit of I forget what it is, but it's some sort of iron compound. And the iron compound is there to fix the black color so the black color doesn't fade or change over time.
+
+[16:35] So uh on the internets they will falsely say that that that the uh this ferric thing is added, so ferrous thing is added so that to make the black color because they're not turning black naturally. That's not true. It's really just a preservative. Not that that's better, but I prefer accuracy to inaccurate uh statements. And so there you have your uh California uh black riped olives.
+
+[16:57] Thanks. Nice. Let's go to a commercial break. Underground Meats is an American producer of handcrafted salami and cured meats in Madison, Wisconsin. They use small farms from southwest Wisconsin to source their meat.
+
+[17:30] The animals are raised on pasture for their entire lives by farmers who care about animal welfare. While underground meats uses European traditions, they also use ingredients from the upper Midwest to try to create new types of salamis, experimenting with both ingredients and techniques. The salamis are made using heritage breeds, mostly red wattles, tamworts, Berkshires, and Mule Foots. Try their award-winning cured pork shoulder and goat salami. To learn more and purchase products, visit shop.undergroundfoodcollective.org.
+
+[18:01] Or stop by their butcher shop in Madison, Wisconsin. And we're back. How you doing? Good. Oh, I like I like that.
+
+[18:18] It's like, no, I'm gonna I'm gonna give you the lead in again. Beep meep beep beanie. Like that actually was renamed Fishes Fishes Vodka, right? That's the real name of the song. Well, yeah, I mean, it's very closely related to the uh vicious vicious vodka, the Amos Milburn cut, which we you know, which we used to use.
+
+[18:36] Hey, we got a caller, Dave. Got a caller? Alright, caller. Caller on the air. Hello.
+
+[18:41] Howdy. Hi, Dave. Howdy. Uh I have a question for you about uh natural pickles. Okay.
+
+[18:50] I've done uh naturally fermented cucumbers with great success, but I just bought a bunch of uh bunch of different vegetables at the farmer's market, and I want to naturally ferment them all. I was wondering if uh if you have any pointers for other kinds of vegetables, uh what are good vegetables, what vegetables I shouldn't do. Is cooking vegetables going to screw up the process? Can I do any fruits? Just anything you can uh advise.
+
+[19:20] Do you own the Sandor Cats book, by the way? I've heard of it, but I don't have it. Yeah, you should you should get it. It's worth the money on this stuff, and I'll tell you why. Uh he has gone through a and even if you don't necessarily agree with uh everything he says, he has gone through and tested a huge variety of specific uh fruits and vegetables under specific curing regimens, right?
+
+[19:48] Now, so I highly recommend that you go and even actually, you know, if you want to cheat, if you do the Amazon look inside, you can look inside and like find like various tips on on various different things. The thing about cooking um vegetables or fruits beforehand, for instance, doing putting cucumbers in in a in a hot bath, right? It like a lot of what that's doing is trying to kill uh enzymes and bacteria in the or denatured enzymes and kill bacteria in the product that might soften the vegetable before the pickling process is complete or during the pickling process, right? So in cucumbers, uh, you know, that's the one one of the reasons you know that they'll do a a quick boil on them to to do on the outside. And a lot of vegetables are the same way, but like if you're doing something and you want it to stay extremely extremely crunchy, like raw crunchy on something that's hard, like let's say a carrot, you don't want to do it so long that you have a problem.
+
+[20:42] I don't really know if there's an advantage at all, frankly, to boiling a carrot before you pickle it, because I haven't tried. You know what I'm saying? But this is the kind of thing that Sandor cats would probably be great on for looking up. Um the other thing, uh, when you know, if you're dealing with something that has a tendency to soften, right, then you can add some sort of um positive uh uh, you know, uh uh positively charged uh ion to it, like uh calcium or something like this, and that's gonna strengthen the pectin in the cell walls and you know let you have a crunchier product over time. Um what vegetables do you have?
+
+[21:24] Uh I have carrots, Brussels sprouts, beets, onions, and uh broccoli. Yeah, I mean, all that stuff should pickle should pickle well. I've never I've only ever done vinegar pickling on onions, though. I don't know what a traditionally pickled onion. I'm sure it'd be delicious.
+
+[21:41] But all of these things are uh, you know, well, actually, you know, you have onions inside of kimchi, which I've done a million times. Anyway, but but like but these um these are all things that I like highly recommend that you that you just go get his book or do the Amazon look inside because I don't know specific recommendations, and there might be a particular trick for a particular vegetable that I would miss, and why why miss it when you can just look it up on his thing? Does that make sense or no? Yes. Uh you mentioned calcium.
+
+[22:13] What kind of calcium would you recommend? Uh that's a good question. So, you know, the calcium chloride tastes horrific, but you could use it in uh sm in small quantities. In fact, they add calcium chloride to uh canned um tomatoes. That's why canned tomatoes don't break down when you cook them the same way that tomatoes break down when you cook them.
+
+[22:34] Um and they're added usually at a low enough uh dosage rate that you you know you don't taste it with the rest of the stuff. Although, you know, I have a mental block about adding something that you know tastes horrific. But you know, you could add a little bit of uh calcium chloride, or you could uh do a uh dip uh in um pickling lime or add a small amount of pickling lime water, which is calcium hydroxide, uh, to it. Uh that'll increase the calcium and make things more crunchy. That also has a flavor, but you know you want to add a kind of minute quantities.
+
+[23:07] So it's calcium hydroxide, calcium chloride. Uh, and that's why it's called, by the way, pickling lime. You know, this it's the same thing that's used in um in nickstamilization, um, which is known as cal when you're in Mexico, but it's all it's all the same stuff, or Thai red lime paste, all the same product. Uh it's calcium hydroxide, which is basic and very, very dilute, very, very weakly uh uh soluble. So you could do a soak in in a pickling lime solution and then do pickling and that should ferment.
+
+[23:32] Um anything like that, calcium lactate, uh calcium lactate, gluconate is the least flavorful of the or least disgusting of the calciums, but also the um also the uh uh hardest to dissolve and the most expensive. Carrots actually have a high amount of calcium, and the modernist cuisine guys told me once that the inside of a carrot, the little pithy part in the middle, extremely high in calcium. So, I mean, I don't know if any of this stuff's gonna be necessary in something like a carrot, but might be helpful in broccoli, for instance. Okay. Yeah.
+
+[24:04] But uh yeah, but let look tweet us in at cooking issues and let us know uh how this stuff works out and whether you've figured out any good uh tips or tricks because uh I like to I like to hear these things. I will. Thank you very much. Cool, thank you. Uh okay.
+
+[24:18] So we have a uh uh question in from Joshua. He goes, Dear Nastasha, Jack, and Joe and me, Dave. Nice. Nice to be included. Should we answer the question in that order?
+
+[24:29] Uh well, you can. If you know the answer. It starts with Dave. No, but here's the thing. We should answer it in that order.
+
+[24:36] If any of you guys know the answer to this, I don't know, I'll give you some sort of prize. We'll jump in. Yeah? I was recently at Booker and Daxter in my first trip to New York. It was nothing short of incredible.
+
+[24:44] Welcome to New York. Come back again. We like we like tourists to come to New York. That's how we make our money in New York. What do you think this is?
+
+[24:50] What about your tourist lane? Well, back in the day, here's the thing. I used to live in uh in Times Square, right outside of Times Square in the Garment District. Stas, you live really close to it now, right? Mm-hmm.
+
+[25:00] And this is not, I don't think this is my idea. I think this goes back to an old uh like New York Times magazine thing from decades ago. But the concept is that you have uh uh a tourist lane where you're allowed to kind of stop pivot, yeah, take pictures, do whatever it is that you do when you know you're in in the city for the first time, and then a kind of a commuter's walking lane, where if you if you s if you slow down at all, or if you swerve or move in any way other than to get out of the then yeah, then you get shouldered instantly. So you're like like viciously shouldered, and you're not upset about it because babe, it's my bad. I was in the commuting lane and I got viciously shouldered.
+
+[25:42] You know, kind of like bikers do on uh on the Brooklyn Bridge. Brooklyn Bridge, anyone's a biker out there and you bike on the Brooklyn Bridge, you're a freak show. You just like confrontation and you just you just hate mellow times because that that's what it would be like. It would be like that. If you put a tour if you put a commuter walking lane into Times Square, uh, you know, you would have the same situation with angry people that you have on the Brooklyn Bridge.
+
+[26:04] Uh and by the way, another oh maybe it wasn't the tourist lane that was the idea, but in the New York Times, they just they basically said that we should have these zones where uh people who live in Manhattan aren't allowed to go, and Times Square would be one of them. And we're we're just not allowed in there because we just get angry, and that's our freaking problem. Like that is not built for us. So that's not for us. Yeah, but they're not for us.
+
+[26:25] You know what I'm saying? It's like it's like it's like you like uh a a Manhattan person is not allowed to get angry at tourists in uh Times Square. That's unreasonable. Like it is there for them. You are just a chump who like happened to plan his commute through the like one of the busiest tourist places in in the world.
+
+[26:43] You're bad. Your fault. Anyway, um that had nothing to do with cooking. Here we go. Uh uh, I was recently at Booker Dax, my first trip to New York.
+
+[26:52] It was nothing short of incredible. The ham and pork bonds were both outstanding, but the drinks were out of this world. Well, thank you, Joshua. I appreciate it. Uh I would consider buying a centerfuge just to make the gin and juice again.
+
+[27:01] You can make without a centrifuge using uh agar clarification. Anyway, while there I tried some orange juice with a lime uh juice acid profile. I have done a literature search and can't find any standard acid amounts in citrus varieties except for citric acid. Any help or a recipe would be great. Also, I used to live in England and I love the English style bacon rashers that are in full English breakfast.
+
+[27:21] Do you know what cut specifically is used and where I might source it? The only butchers near me just repackage what they are sent, therefore no custom cuts. And if there is anything special about the cure, thank you for all of your help, Joshua. Okay. Um, well, so Jack and Joe, you want to try and hit that guy?
+
+[27:38] Uh I got nothing, Joe. I'm gonna take a stab at the bacon one and just say it's uh thickness thing, it's just pork belly. Okay, well, uh I I have to admit, Stas, you got anything on this? I have to admit, uh I've I was I locked in so much on the first part of your question that I forgot to even look into the second part of your question, which is horrible. However, I will say this.
+
+[27:59] Um, and you know, I I you know I like that stuff. Bacon, uh only in the US uh does bacon really mean um just the belly cut of the of the pig. And in fact, you used to in England have a whole uh the whole side of the pig, the flitch would be done uh cured in the stu in the manner of bacon. Uh and I presume that they do uh pump styles but also dry uh dry styles, and like one of the famous ones you look up is Wiltshire Cut or Wil Wiltshire style uh uh bacon, because that's one of the famous cures. I have the actual old, old techniques in a book uh by a guy named Nichols called Bacons and Ham.
+
+[28:38] And uh I did a short review of Bacons and Ham on uh cooking issues that books from 1917. It has a picture of the author Nichols dressed as a uh flitch of I love the word flitch of bacon, uh as a flitch of Wiltshi bacon, uh and it's got a fold out pig with all the parts in it. Uh and if if you remind me, if you send in a tweet next week, I will specifically look up uh how to do the Wilcher style, or maybe Jack and Joe can look it up. Like that's the classic English bacon style, the Wilcher Wilcher stuff. Oh, that's an amazing book.
+
+[29:09] You copied it. It's on the blog. Uh part of it's on the blog. Uh the last time I checked, which was three years ago, Google hadn't um uploaded it. But maybe you guys can see if uh they have uploaded bacons and hams.
+
+[29:19] Because it's one of the all-time great books. The guy has a real sense of humor about bacon, you know what I mean? And he was a producer, and it's just an awesome, awesome guy. Anywho, so as to your first question, um so you say you can only find citric acid, and the reason is is that most fruit juices are uh most fruit juices are specified in terms of the titratable acidity as expressed as grams of citric acid per 100 milliliters of product. That's how it's done, right?
+
+[29:47] And so it's expressed as an acidity percentage of citric acid. And luckily, or not luckily, you know, coincidentally, the majority of acid in uh orange juice is in fact citric acid. And it's usually somewhere in the in the range of 0.8 to uh like 1% in that range, 0.8 to 1% acid for a standard acidic uh orange juice that you have lying around. So I use 0.8. Now, what that means is that there are um eight grams of citric acid in a liter of um in a liter of orange juice, or there are 0.8 grams or close to a gram of citric acid in a hundred milliliters or uh of um of orange juice.
+
+[30:37] Now, lime juice, right? Uh lime juice and lemon juice are both roughly uh six percent acidity. So six percent like so there would be uh a lot more, right? And so uh so lemon juice is almost entirely citric acid. So if you wanted uh orange juice with the same acidity as uh lemon juice and the same f acid profile as lemon juice, you would add roughly uh five grams of citric acid to uh a hundred milliliters of of orange juice, and you'd have roughly lemon juice.
+
+[31:13] If you wanted to do lime juice, lime juice has uh a different acid profile. It is roughly uh it's also roughly six percent, but it's two parts of citric to one part malic. So uh to make lime juice acid out of water, you would take four grams of uh malic acid, sorry, four grams of citric acid and two grams of malic acid, uh, and also a pinch of succinic acid, which is the real thing that makes it taste like quality lime juice, but you know, that's just a secret between all of us. Anyway, uh cicinic acid, very difficult to get. The other two you can just get at a homebrew shops uh or wine supplies.
+
+[31:44] So you add that and you get it. So when you're trying to take orange juice up to lime juice uh acidity, assume that your hundred milliliters of uh orange juice already has in it one gram of uh citric acid. So you need to add another uh three grams of citric acid. Hmm, is that right? Three, four, yeah.
+
+[32:06] Add three grams of citric acid more and then two grams of malic, let it dissolve, and wemo, you have uh orange juice with the acid profile of lime. Yeah? Nice. Yeah. Uh and you needn't worry, by the way, and I'll go more into this uh if you buy, you know, in a year's time when my cocktail book comes out.
+
+[32:25] If you buy it, I'll go into excruciating detail about why uh it's useless to use pH meters to um measure the uh acidity of juices, and that really the the measurement that you want to use, the only thing that's important is the titratable as uh acidity uh as expressed in grams of citric acid per 100 mils. And even though different acids have different uh levels of acidity, that really is uh, you know, to a first order of magnitude, all you need to know because your mouth doesn't taste pH, your mouth tastes how many acid molecules are present. Now the different acids do have different profiles. So lemon juice, which is primarily citric, has a very fast citric attack and then decay, whereas malic acid has a longer, uh a longer resident time on your tongue, and so malic acid tends to uh tends to last for a longer amount of time, but have less of a punch, less of an attack. So they are slightly different, but there you have it.
+
+[33:17] What do you think? Good? Anyway. Uh do we take another break or no? We've got another question here.
+
+[33:22] Oh, what do you got? Some of your general rules of thumb for keeping leftovers and then subsequently reheating them. Well, it depends on the leftover, really. I mean, so like with meats, uh, with meats, you want to make sure that you don't let oxygen hit them so you don't get the warmed over flavor when you reheat them, right? Because that's an oxidative thing.
+
+[33:40] So if you have a meat with fat on it, the fat's exposed to air, you then reheat it, you can get uh oxidative damage to the uh um oils, and you get these kind of cardboard y off flavors, and it's known as warmed over flavor, and that's considered bad. So you want to store that stuff without without uh heat. But you know, if you have a you know, look, in the future, maybe everyone will have a circulator just like sitting around kind of running so they can they can reheat stuff. In general, uh I think an unfortunate thing that happens is we tend to, well, I at home I tend to store everything in quart containers, right? So you'll make a stew, you'll make a soup, you'll make whatever, you'll pack it into a quart container, and you'll put it in your fridge, or I don't know, if you don't have core containers, you pack it into it.
+
+[34:19] And those are relatively difficult to reheat because uh they're really they're thick. So let's say you were to make a stew or some sort of whatever, you know, whatever you want, and pack it in, and then you try to reheat that, well, it doesn't really work. And then you break out, you put it in a pan, and the stuff in the bottom of the pan starts to scorch, right? You've had this happen, right, Stas. And it's irritating.
+
+[34:38] And the only alternatives are to like sit there and nuke it a billion times and stir it while you nuke it to try, which is irritating, right? Uh here's a better solution, I think, is to put your stuff in Ziploc bags and then flatten them when you seal them. Now the entire package, the entire Ziploc package, is only, you know, uh, you know, like a set a couple centimeters thick, maybe, and then you can heat up some water to a simmer, turn it off, throw your packages in. You don't want to boil Ziploc bags because they can hit the sides of pans and break, and they reheat very quickly and very evenly. If you have a rice cooker that is induction fired with induction, right, and it's a grain product that you're trying to reheat, throwing a couple tablespoons of water into the bottom of your rice cooker and then just dumping the product in and breaking it up and hitting the reheat cook cycle is a fantastic mellow way to reheat stuff.
+
+[35:27] That'll work. I mean, should you have to reheat rice? That's the best way, even though I mean the best way is to make fried rice. Fry rice is delicious. Do you like fried rice?
+
+[35:33] Mm-hmm. Yeah, good. Oh man, good. Really? You like fried rice?
+
+[35:36] Thank God. We need a sound effect for when Nastasi likes something. Yeah. Fried rice is straight up delicious. I mean, I don't know.
+
+[35:41] I don't know how you could not like it. It's delicious. Anyways, uh, do you like the egg mixed in or the chunks of egg? Oh, egg mixed in. Really?
+
+[35:48] I kind of like both, so I mix some in and then I cut up, I make some like you know, some omelette style stuff and throw the chunks in as well. Oh, yeah, I like both. Yeah. Uh anywho, so but if you want to reheat it, normal style, rice like I use the Zoji Rushi, which is awesome piece of equipment, induction fuzzy, neurofuzzy rice cooker, 18 cup. And I tell you what, you look at the price tag and you're like 250 bucks for your rice cooker.
+
+[36:09] I use that sucker so freaking much. It is such a freaking machine. It does such a great job on rice. But anyway, also that can reheat things like lentils or drier things like beans that are more difficult to reheat. I mean things that are liquidy beans, you don't really need it.
+
+[36:23] Although I guess it could, I've never used it for that, but it's really gentle, and because it's induction uh heated and has a fairly accurate uh thermal uh control, it doesn't ever scorch. Never ever, never scorch. Never never scorch. Um the other alternative is to spread things very thick and then hit them with super high heat and crust them up. Like, do you like do you like to reheat pasta by like frying the bottom of it to get a real nice crust on it or not?
+
+[36:46] Depends. The problem is if you've overcooked the pasta at all, it mushes and then turns to crap. God, I hate that. I hate that. Do you hate that?
+
+[36:52] I hate that. Uh what do you think, Jack? These good suggestions or no? This is great. Alright.
+
+[36:56] Do we need any more? I think that's good for now. Alright. We need more reheat, reheat uh what what your tailgate would look like as it's kind of tailgate season right now. Oh man.
+
+[37:09] Uh doesn't like football or fantasy. I don't like fantasy. No offense. Like in general. You don't like fantasies in general?
+
+[37:17] Like in in in general. In general, I'm like, that's just a fantasy. No, that's not true. Like, I have an imagination. I'm not a fantasy football.
+
+[37:23] Uh I don't I don't dislike fantasy football. I feel that, you know, uh and look, you know, Star's bringing up personal stuff here. I just feel that we have enough work to do at Booker and Dax Equipment Company trying to get some of our projects off the ground that we don't need to fill the time with fantasy football. I do not want to go. Whoa!
+
+[37:43] I want everyone to see I want everyone to hear Nastasha Lopez saying she does not do fantasy football at work. That was you and Piper sitting together with some sort of stats up, discussing the relative merits of the Manning brothers, and discussing your fantasy football picks as though it was some sort of urgent problem that needed to be addressed. It was happening that it was Thursday. It's like Thursday is the day you need to be a little ready. Wait, which is it?
+
+[38:08] The Thursday's the day you need to be ready and it's really urgent and a big deal, or that you don't do it at work. Oh my god. Fantasy freaking football. Fantasy. I'm like, I'm like, we have real life projects that are going sour, and you're working on fantasy football.
+
+[38:23] Uh so my tailgate, if I was gonna do it, I mean I would bring a bunch of my Sears all so I can finish some stuff off. Uh are you allowed to run your car during the tailgate, or is that considered like really bad news? Bad news, right? That's ruining the environment. It's bad form, yeah.
+
+[38:37] Yeah. So what do you what do people do? Bring a bunch of batteries to run their circulators. I think they bound it off a generator. They run it off a generator?
+
+[38:46] I mean, look, I would probably do like some serious brats and burgers uh with either like a grill or searzole or both. And I would just crank out some super high quality uh products like that. I would take I would make a bunch of carbonated cocktails, and then I get a bunch of uh, you know, probably bottles, or do people prefer cans at the at these things? I I don't think you can bring glass in. So cans.
+
+[39:08] So we would do uh probably some bottle cocktails for me, uh, you know, in plastic bottles, right? Uh, you know, carbonated, because yeah. Although how many people are at tailgates are not driving? Oh, I think they're all driving. Well, hell, I'm not gonna serve in that crap.
+
+[39:23] Well, I think there's some that don't drive. Then they just come with the crew. All right. Well, for the people that can't drink, here's something. If you want beer and you can't drink, I do this hops tincture right now that you can add to seltzer water and it gives kind of a beery feeling to it, but it's a much higher quality product than like I just feel bad buying O'Dules.
+
+[39:39] It just seems weird, right? But anyway, I would probably do a salt, uh salt and ice chilled uh beer section where I get it really accurate and I get it just down to the freezing point of the beer. Just there. You know what I mean? Just right.
+
+[39:52] Super cold. The uh Wow. So the trick is American, like I don't want to hear anything from a beer aficionados saying, well, beer isn't supposed to be cold. American beer is supposed to be cold. It has no flavor.
+
+[40:09] So it's supposed to be really it has flavor, but it's supposed to be cold, right? Ice cold. Ice freaking cold. And actually, ice is only that's about zero. You want that thing slightly more than ice cold.
+
+[40:20] So a little salt and ice in there. Uh so that's how I would probably rock out the the tailgate. What do you think? That sounds good. Yeah, people would come to that, right?
+
+[40:28] Yeah. Burgers, brats. Bratz. Brats. You might hate fantasy football like Nastasia hates vegans.
+
+[40:37] Uh no, because I don't have anything against it when it doesn't intrude on work. I mean, it's not like vegans like knock on my window and say, hey, can you stop working so that we can talk about vegetables? It doesn't happen. Uh, you know. All right.
+
+[40:51] We got a caller. Uh caller, you're on the air. Hey, David Nathan from Richmond. Hey, how you doing? Good, man.
+
+[40:57] Um, I had a question about cooking meat from frozen. Okay. Um I wanted to know what happen what's happening when you're cooking meat from frozen. And is it ever um uh negative quality thing, like if you were cooking uh braise, for instance, like pork cheeks or maybe a pig's head braise. Would that be a good thing or like acceptable, or would you get a really mushy product?
+
+[41:19] All right. Well, I've never done a side by side. I have cooked from frozen on, you know, on occasions on several more than several occasions. Uh I have never done I've never done a side by side. Now there are people, of course, who always sear frozen, like they they freeze the product and then sear it.
+
+[41:39] Uh and there's some people, like the modernist cuisine uh recommendations where they just par freeze the outside with liquid nitrogen, or not parf hard freeze, but only on the surface with liquid nitrogen, then do their sear. And the theory there being that uh you're not gonna overcook the interior of the meat, right? Um, the results are actually slightly different. In fact, Ideas in Food now has a big frozen sear thing that they do, and I don't know if they cook direct from frozen or not. I think they do.
+
+[42:05] But I uh I, you know, there might repeat might be a difference in um what happens when you're cooking on a on a slow cook going you're you're talking in a bag slow, right? Yes. Yeah. Okay. Because in true you can't really do it traditionally at traditional temperatures because you'll overcook before you thaw, you know what I'm saying?
+
+[42:27] So you can't do it that time. Right. Right. But if you're doing we're talking low temp, good. So we're talking low temp.
+
+[42:31] Uh the only difference I can see is that in a standard piece of meat, a large portion, a standard unfrozen piece of meat that you're cooking low temperature, a large portion of the meat is in the range uh in kind of the middle temperature range between 40 uh 40 uh Fahrenheit, you know, uh fridge temperature and uh cooking temperature, let's just say 55 Celsius for the steak that I do, right? There's a good uh uh there's a good amount of meat in that range, and in that range when the meat is in there, different things can happen. The enzymes can uh help break uh down uh tissues and different reactions can take place. You won't have those reactions take place in a piece of meat that's going directly uh in the bath from freezing because there'll be a fairly fine line between the cook temperature place and the place where it's uh you know zero and very f not zero, but you know, zero Celsius, and very few of those reactions are taking place. So my feeling is and but the the real thing is I don't really know how much of a difference that'll make.
+
+[43:31] My guess is not that much. And if the product, if the product's already def already thawed anyway, now look, if you thaw a product out, so I always tell people they say, like, you know, how's my meat gonna be that's been frozen? I say, well, when you thaw it, look at how much drip is coming out. And a and meat that's been stored poorly or for too long with a lot of temperature cycling is gonna have a huge amount of drip loss out of their meat, right? Right.
+
+[43:55] Uh but frankly, you know, if if you're doing a braise, you're going to be cooking at high enough temperatures that you'd get an equivalent amount of drip loss out of the fresh thing anyway, because you'd be squeezing that crap out when you're when you're cooking it. Now my my only the only caveat with braises in general is that you want to hyper reduce any stock uh or any flavors or any sauces that go in the bag with the braids because otherwise it's going to taste poached when it comes out instead of braised. Not bad, just poached. Okay, and what about traditional? If you were going to do a traditional braise with one of the with you know, like a tougher cut, not in a bag from frozen.
+
+[44:53] Yeah, I don't know. I'm I'd be I'd be more loath to do it, and that but the the question is is how long how long is the window of awesomeness on the cook, right? That's the first thing you have to ask. And then uh then how thick are the pieces and how fast will they thaw out in the simmering water? That's the second, you know, in the in the in the bubbling water.
+
+[45:14] That's the second piece of the puzzle. So if the window of awesomeness, uh, let's say you're doing like, you know, you're getting a pork shoulder and you uh you're making, you know, I don't know, chili or something like this, and you're brazing it out. Uh, you know, it I wouldn't do a whole pork shoulder that way. That's crazy. Now, if you if the pieces if the pieces had already been cut down, you know, such that they you know they're only, you know, you know, centimeter or two centimeters thick, like I normally do when I'm gonna pressure cook, and then you know, you sear them off to get a little crust to have a fawn to reduce anyway, right?
+
+[45:44] That's pre-thawing them a little bit, and then you throw them in. Well, we all know that you know you you have quite a bit of time from the time it first becomes tender till the time it's crap for that to be done, and they'll probably thaw out pretty quickly, so probably not a big deal. You know what I'm saying? Uh yeah, totally. Yeah, so I think it a lot depends, uh, and you just have to kind of judge in your mind uh how long it's gonna take to thaw out and how big of a window you have.
+
+[46:13] Okay, cool. That's really helpful. All right. Good luck with it. Let's know how everything works out.
+
+[46:17] Absolutely. Thanks, Dave. Love the show. All right, thanks. Uh okay.
+
+[46:21] So we have two more quick ones to try to try to get in. We have from uh Parker Cook, who is at Gun Pistol Man. I wonder whether he knows uh Byron Ferguson. Yeah. Not Byron Ferguson.
+
+[46:33] Who's the other no Bob Munt Bob Mundan, the fasted he just died like a couple years ago, the fastest draw in the world? Got a freaking incredible. Died of a heart attack in his car when he was driving. Rough. You wouldn't think that like the fastest draw like to ever have lived, like the world's fastest gun, just in a car, heart attack.
+
+[46:51] Yeah. You know what I mean? Yeah, it sucks. Sucks, right? Yeah.
+
+[46:54] I don't know. Maybe what I don't know, that has nothing to do with anything. Okay. He says, at cookie issues, what are your guys' guilty pleasures? I love making homemade uh sous vide burgers, but on occasion, love a burger from McDonald's.
+
+[47:05] What do you think? What do you got? Give me some good. I think uh economy candy candy. Just total binge.
+
+[47:12] Oh, Nastash is a candy feed. But she's also she also like has some weird hates. Like you hate what flavor of gummy bear do you hate? What color I should say? All except white.
+
+[47:24] You only love white? I can it can eat uh red and green. But you buy sacks of them just for the whites? Yeah, Paper gives me all the whites. Wait, so I've I've seen you you and Piper plow through sacks and sacks and gummy bears.
+
+[47:37] I know. And it's only for the whites. Sometimes the reds. And greens. And greens.
+
+[47:42] Strange. What's yours? Mine? Uh well, first of all, I, you know, for for many, many years I had uh not been to McDonald's, like two decades almost. Uh decade and a half.
+
+[47:56] And then uh I swear to God, once I have kids and I bought a car, and you're rocketing down I-95, or trying to, you're actually stopped in bumper to bumper traffic traffic on I-95, like one of the worst roads. It wasn't like that, you know, 20 years ago when I used to drive it every day. Now it's like just freaking the worst traffic mess in the world. So you're there and your kids are freaking hungry, and you don't want to get off and find something real, and so the McDonald's is there, so I have to admit I've gone to it a couple times recently, and you know what I've always loved at McDonald's is the fake milkshakes. Those fake shakes are freaking delicious.
+
+[48:28] I always feel bad after I drink them, like they make me feel kind of wrong. Not guilty, but wrong. Uh uh, but I love them. I love the texture. They're so I don't even know how they make those damn things.
+
+[48:40] They're made with milk. I know they're actually milk, but for some my whole life I've called them fake shakes. Vanilla, not the chocolate, chocolate weak. Vanilla, good. And uh, you know, or vanilla, the vanilla fake shake from McDonald's.
+
+[48:52] Do you like those things? I haven't had one in a very long time. What about you guys? You guys in the booth like the McDonald's fake shake? I like the McDonald's milkshake, but I heard a rumor, and this actually might be something to look into for next week, that the McFlurry at McDonald's is completely vegan if you get it with Oreos, because there's no real milk in it.
+
+[49:10] I d I do not know that. I will look it up. It's a rumor I've heard. I don't know. It could be completely false.
+
+[49:15] Uh yeah, I mean I uh I will look it up. Uh it you know, I know for a fact that uh the fake shake has milk in it because they they used to put the real symbol on it, the milk symbol, the real symbol. But okay. But uh I don't know about this McFlurry. Isn't Flurry owned by the so doesn't someone else own Fleurry?
+
+[49:29] Well, no, there's the blizzard, which is uh hardy. Oh no, dairy queen, yeah, yeah. Yeah, blizzard, dairy queen. Okay, so listen. So here's the real trick, uh uh Parker.
+
+[49:40] Like, I don't believe in feeling guilty about what you eat. And this is, I think, the primary this is the primary thing. I don't allow anyone to say the word uh to use the words junk food in my house. Uh and the reason is I think that thinking about food as something you do uh to make yourself guilty or not guilty or a as a as a uh a reward for being able to do something that you perceive as bad is fundamentally unhealthy way that we look at eating here in this country. I think that, you know, there is food that I don't allow my kids to eat all the time.
+
+[50:17] There's foods that I don't buy because they're low quality, like lunchables. I don't know, I don't know who the hell does the marketing on lunchables, right? But my kids ask for lunchables all the time. And Booker, my my oldest son, you know, he has he has some some specific issues. But we're going through uh the supermarket, he's like, Daddy, why won't you buy the lunchables?
+
+[50:36] Is it because they're low quality? I'm like, shh. He does the same thing like with they have low they have some low quality meats at my local kind of you know supermarket. And so they're like, why don't you buy the beef here, Daddy? Is it because it's low quality?
+
+[50:48] I'm like, shh. So I think that there's foods that are kind of low quality. They still have nutrients and they can still be eaten, and I don't buy those, but I don't believe in any category of food being junk. Just ones that you should probably eat more of and ones you should eat less of. But I think, you know, we as a nation would do better to think about um to to not think of food that way, right?
+
+[51:11] What do you think, Stuff? I mean, I feel bad when I eat a ton of candy. Yeah, because you're eating a ton of candy. Yeah. You know what I mean?
+
+[51:19] That's like, you know what? When I went to Austin after I did my uh after I did my vegan purge, and I ate nothing but uh uh, you know, barbecued beef brisket and like pounds of it, like, you know, for 24 hours straight, I felt bad. Not because my body had just come off of a vegan purge and I was polluting it with meat, right? But because I ate too much freaking meat. I just ate huge piles of greasy, peppery, barbecued delicious meat.
+
+[51:47] But you know what I mean? So your body's not set up for that. You know what I'm saying? It's like, you know, the the the binging thing and the worried about things. So my kids sit around worrying all the time about when they can get the stuff that's perceived as junk food.
+
+[51:59] So crap on it. I just don't use the term. You know what I mean? Like, Twinkie is not a well-made product. I love them.
+
+[52:05] Twinkies are good. Maybe that's one, but I like a Twinkie. So the maybe well, more accurately, what products are poorly made and I still like them. I like Twinkies, even though they're poorly made. And as an adult, I can taste that they're bad, poorly made, and I still like them, you know?
+
+[52:18] Uh maybe the same like I can deal with those black olives. They're poorly made, but I I still like them. There's plenty of products that are crap that I actually enjoy, you know? I feel that way about like processed cheese queso dip. That stuff is awesome.
+
+[52:33] Queso is freaking awesome. Anyone that doesn't like queso has uh issues. That stuff's straight up delicious on a chip. Come on. That stuff's delicious.
+
+[52:44] I like do you uh do you make your own? Do you buy Rotel? You can fake it with the jalapeno slices chopped up and they and just chopping your own tomatoes, but rotel's the way to go. Okay. Uh on the way out.
+
+[52:56] Uh Christian Spinello from at Eat the Pig. We received your copy that you gave us of uh The Curious Cook from uh Harold McGee. Thank you so much. We're gonna have him sign it uh when he comes in. He's gonna be in pretty soon.
+
+[53:09] End of the week, I think. And then maybe we should use it anyway. I because I have a copy at home. This is our lab copy now, but maybe we can get him to sign it and then maybe use it for fundraising, right? Yeah.
+
+[53:17] What do you think? Because everyone out there should go get a copy of The Curious Cook, his second book, uh, and the one that's unfortunately out of print, and I beat into his head every time I see him that he should put some of it available online because it really gives an insight into the mind of McGee. Uh and Christian also asked, Dave, a while back, you mentioned olive oil from Italy that you liked uh and it was a good deal. Uh Golufo, I believe, uh, with two L's and two S. Can you get it online?
+
+[53:40] I believe you can buy uh it's not sold under his name, but it's in uh DiPalo's DePalo's uh olive oil. Dipalo's is a cheese shop here in Manhattan. If you should come to Manhattan, please go to DiPalos and they will sell some of their delicious olive oils online. I happen to like a lot of olive oils from Sicily, specifically from uh Trapanese. Pronounced Trapponi or Trapani?
+
+[53:58] Trappani. Trapani. Uh and uh they have good salt around there, but they also have really good oils. I specifically like uh certain uh you know olive varieties of like a nutralard and you know things like that. But do you like do you like Sicilian olive oil or do you like other kind of olives?
+
+[54:12] Whatever. So my point is is that uh it depends year to year how the harvest is. So you really want to go to a supplier that has olive oils and we'll let you taste them. May I recommend DiPalos? Cooking issues.
+
+[54:29] Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization.
+
+[54:56] To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program is brought to you by Regional Access. Regional Access is a regional distributor committed to creating sustainable economies throughout the Northeast. For more information, visit RegionalAccess. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more.
+
+[0:31] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from Robert's Pizzeria in the back of Roberta's Patricia. I said Robert's already. Bushwick Brooklyn. Here as usual with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez.
+
+[0:42] How you doing stuff? Yeah, we got Jack in the engineering booth. We got uh new new person in the engineering booth, never worked a show before, correct? No, Dedrick. First time.
+
+[0:51] Hey Dedrick, how are you doing? How's it going? Yeah? Longtime listener, first time engineer. Nice.
+
+[0:56] Sweet. So we're gonna have to get some questions and call out the Dedrick. Yeah. And we've got we've got a Piper on the line. Oh, Piper's called in.
+
+[1:03] Yeah, yeah. Alright. So uh well, handle first of all, call in your questions to 7184972128. That's 7184972128. Uh but Piper's on the line because uh, you know, a listener friend of ours, John Riper, not not Ripper, not repair, like the chef, Riper, as in the fruits we're about to talk about, shipped us a bunch of fall apples from the Washington, and Piper has a taste of it.
+
+[1:28] Piper, how are you doing? Pretty good. Pretty good? Just pretty good. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[1:33] Oh, real good. Yeah. Well, Piper's getting ready actually for a uh we're doing a uh a tasting of all the Booker and Dax products today at the lab. Is that true or false? True.
+
+[1:42] And we have a we have a big la uh what's it called? The bar meeting today, yeah? Yeah. Nice. I'm not doing any of that right now.
+
+[1:48] Wow. Wow. Anger on the air. I like that. I like that.
+
+[1:52] Sweet anger on the air. So anyway. What? Just salty. Yeah, salty.
+
+[1:56] Yeah, salty man. Yeah. Okay. The family, Piper, Piper's family came over on the Mayflower, and they still haven't kind of washed the salt out of themselves. It's only been like 400 years or something like this, you know, since they came over.
+
+[2:11] Right? Yeah, almost 400 years. No? Yeah, it's coming up big anniversary. Yes, you get he's like the family gonna get together in Vermont and celebrate the uh celebrate the subjugation of our great nation.
+
+[2:21] We're gonna go to the lighthouse, I think. Yeah, yeah. Well, for those of you that don't know, Piper is named after a uh an old relative of his whose only job, only job was to keep the lighthouse running, right? Got drunk. Right.
+
+[2:36] I'm not saying anything about Piper. Well, if we know he didn't flip flip the light on. So either he's completely incompetent or a drunkard or both. How do you not flick the light on? How do you not light a lighthouse?
+
+[2:49] It's your only job. Your only thing you need to do your whole life, flick the light switch uh on, or you know, light it, whatever they did back in the day, they had probably a big Fresnel lens, whatever. I'm not gonna get into it. Anyway, this is the relative that Piper's family chose to name him after, if this gives you any indication of uh of the family. Yeah, okay.
+
+[3:07] Right, yeah. All right. So uh so anywho, uh, we have like a whole bunch of uh apples that uh John sent in. It was something like 15 uh different apples, something like this. Uh some of them are my favorites, like Ash Mead's kernel, everyone knows that that's one of my well, no, if you've heard me yell about apples before Ash Mead's colonel, one of my favorite apples.
+
+[3:27] Um, but some varieties that we hadn't tried before. But one thing I will say, John, John did an excellent job. Now, everybody knows that apples uh they bruise, and when they bruise, uh the polyphenol oxidase enzymes inside the apples cause uh the apples to turn brown and oxidize, and it's no press. No one likes a bruised apple, right, Styes? No.
+
+[3:44] Even, well, of course, you would not like a bruised apple, but maybe perversely you would because you'd like something that's kind of blemished, but you hate blemishes. Anyway, it's too hard to figure out styles sometimes. But uh the point is, so wrap them very carefully individually in bubble wrap, overwrap them and label them, which is awesome. Except uh I think what happened is that the bubble wrap was very effective at keeping the ethylene from the apples inside uh, you know, in close contact with the apples. And so I think we got some accelerated ripening on the apples in the box in transit.
+
+[4:18] Um that means if you've ever uh picked a bunch of apples before, you'll notice that uh as apples are um you know, as apples are getting more and more ripe and tending towards overripe, the all of a sudden the the apples will start feeling greasy, and I think it's because of uh maybe an increase in wax production, but all these kind of when you pick them up, they had the kind of feel the feel of an apple that was a little bit overripe, and some of the texture had gone from not being um as crisp as I know some of the apple varieties is, and it's a lot of the apples that develop some of the kind of floral notes that uh an apple picks up in the later latter stages of ripening. Now, Piper and Nastasha are both um are are both uh what would you say, uh kind of uh ra you know, got me a little angry, right? Not angry, but disappointed, more more disappointed than angry because the they are two of the classic Americans who only like crunchy freaking apples. This is true or false. True.
+
+[5:14] Yeah. True. Yeah. So you only like crunchy apples, even though, like, why should every apple have to be crunchy? Like, like our reaction against non-crunchy apples is because most of the non-crunchy apples that we get in the supermarket are in fact bad quality apples.
+
+[5:29] They're apples that are meant to be crunchy, they're stored too long and they're mealy, or we're used to mealy, tasteless apples like uh Red Delicious, which are horrible. They, you know, mo 99% of the red delicious trees should be pulped instantly and turned into paper or burnt for smoking uh pork or something useful like this instead of producing the wretched quality fake apples that they not fake, but the crap apples. Hell, crap apples, that's a good one, right? Instead of crab apples, well, we'll use that one. Uh but the um anywho, the point is is that there is uh something that is not a mealy disgusting apple and is not a crunchy apple, and uh the term is crumbly.
+
+[6:05] And in fact, one of the ones that John sent was uh Cox Orange Pippin and uh, you know, which is the classic uh, you know, UK uh dessert variety apple, and it is supposed to have kind of a a bit of a crumbly texture in its later stage of ripening, which I thought was quite nice, but I couldn't get these two Giocomos here to uh you know to think outside of the of you know whatever box they grew up eating apples. And I'll tell you what the sad, sad effect of that is. If you go to a farmer's market in the U.S. and you buy one, if you go to a farmer's market here in New York, okay, uh nowadays you can find any time during apple season, which lasts from roughly July until October, you know, uh November, right? When they get on even later for the keeping apples, you can find 20 varieties easily, right?
+
+[6:49] The problem is most of the growers who uh bring the apples will always pick them under ripe because they want them to be crunchy because they know that even theoretically food-educated people like Nastasha and Piper are only gonna like those apples if they're freaking crunchy. And the fact is, if you pick an under-ripe apple, to me, often it's worse than an overripe apple because the flavors haven't developed yet. So a lot of times you get varieties and you're like, man, that tastes thin and acidic and kind of like just a bad version of a Granny Smith, which is a one note kind of pure apple, you know, thin acid flavored apple. And the fact of the matter is is that is that growers are just picking the suckers underripe because uh Americans can't taste around a non-crunchy apple. Okay, I'm done talking about that.
+
+[7:30] But some of the uh Piper's got the notes, which is why I have him on the line. I didn't we didn't call him in just so that I could berate him about his apple taste, right? Yeah, that's the added benefit. That's that's a side benefit that you get. So uh so the ones we got were like uh ambrosia, Arlay, Swiss gourmet.
+
+[7:47] What do we say about the Swiss gourmet? I don't remember what we thought because I hadn't had that one before. Let's see. The uh right now I guess that one does not have one. Which one?
+
+[7:57] Arlay. Arlay. Uh he has to sift through handwritten notes. So while he's doing that, I'll talk about one of the ones that uh I thought was good, but that uh, you know, that these guys had some issues with, and that is the uh the Rubenet, right? That's the one that I liked.
+
+[8:12] That that uh, you know, that according to the documents that we got from John is the the greatest apple ever produced. Is that is that true or false? Is that the one? Yeah, is that the one or not? Uh I believe.
+
+[8:25] No, no, no. A nova? That's what he said about it. He said it was the best apple ever. That's the one he was.
+
+[8:29] I liked it, but you didn't like it, right? No, yeah. He said it was the best tasting apple in the world. I mean, I guess I couldn't get over the texture. No, but you also thought the interesting thing about it was it was an extremely high acid, high flavor apple with some spiciness in it, right?
+
+[8:49] And so they had kind of a funkiness at the end that I didn't like. Right. But I'm wondering whether that was a function of the fact that it hit had um been around for a little while or whether or not like that's part of it. But I think that that stuff would be good juice. By the way, here's another thing that's great about cocktails for apples is if you're using uh an apple for cocktails, then um if you're using an apple for cocktails, texture doesn't matter anymore.
+
+[9:14] You all you have to care about is the acid, uh acid sugar balance, and uh beyond that, kind of whether there's any interesting spicy notes or other flavor notes uh in the apples. So I thought that Rubenette, I would definitely want to get a bunch more rubinette. Did you juice the ones we had yet, or we haven't had a chance yet to juice those? I'll juice them. Yeah, we'll juice the three that are left and and uh check it out.
+
+[9:35] And the Concord grapes we're gonna grab it. Oh wow, but Stas is giving you some extra stuff to do. Don't worry about it, you don't have enough to do. Okay. So anyway, uh anything else you want to say from the uh apple tasting there, or do you you like uh no?
+
+[9:47] No? You're good? Um let's see. Uh I mean artlet was uh is a big hit. I think overall, like um the profile acid and sweetness is really good.
+
+[9:57] Is that one of the ones that's a good keeper, therefore it stays crunchy for a long time, and that's why you liked it? The one we had wasn't so crunchy. No? Um the Mutsu, I think too sweet. Yeah, that's like a Japanese style.
+
+[10:11] The one we had was very high sweetness, almost like uh like uh Fuji with like a low bat, like not much of an acid backbone. Yeah. Yeah. Anyway, uh alright. Well, anyway, thanks so much, John, for all those apples.
+
+[10:21] Super interesting. And we'll, I guess we'll talk more about them as the time goes. But I definitely want to get hold of some of those Rubenettes to juice them out, right? Yeah. Alright, thanks, Pipes.
+
+[10:30] All right, Tom Fisher writes in, Dear Dave, Nastasha, Jack, and Joe. I just made three gallons of aged eggnog. Well, Joe didn't want to show up today. Right. Yeah, he didn't like us.
+
+[10:39] Yeah. Anyway. Uh I just made three gallons of aged eggnog with the following recipe per gallon. Twelve egg yolks, two cups sugar, one half gallon whole milk, one cup heavy cream, one cup bourbon, one cup cognac, and one cup dark rum. Anyway, the mix seems very thin.
+
+[11:00] Will this thicken over time or is there a problem with the proportions? If it will not thicken on its own, what would be the best way to fix it? Thanks, Tom Fisher. Well, that sucker should uh that should uh thicken over time. I've never actually made eggnog because truth be told, I don't really like eggnog.
+
+[11:14] Stas, you like it? Uh-huh. All right, well, why don't we we'll make a batch at the lab and then uh, you know, I'll taste a little bit of it, and you and Piper can pound it as per usual. Just like pounding eggnog. Uh yeah, I'm not a big fan of uh most kind of milky drinks, so I've never worked on it.
+
+[11:29] However, uh I know for a fact uh I was consulted a couple of years ago. Uh someone was doing an article uh on the safety considerations when you're aging eggnog. Um and this is right around the time that Rockefeller you so one of the questions people have isn't necessarily about thickening, it's about safety because you're storing uh raw eggs. You don't cook this stuff. So you're storing raw eggs in the fridge for a long time.
+
+[11:52] Uh and in fact, the interesting thing um that this article that I don't even know if I was quoting it, but I was used as background on, that I was talking with this person at the Rockefeller University, which is a well-known, you know, uh place here that does a lot of uh interesting uh, you know, b bio and and uh microbiology work. Uh in their lab, every year they make uh aged eggnog, right? So they make it at Thanksgiving time and they drink it at Christmas. And no one had ever bothered to test to ensure whether or not it's safe. So they actually took a batch of eggnog, spiked it with salmonella, and then incubated it in the f in the fridge as you would normal eggnog and tested it to make sure that the salmonella was gonna be dead and sure shooting the salmonella is dead.
+
+[12:32] But you don't want to eat it, you don't want to drink it right away because in fact the salmonella is not killed immediately by the uh by the alcohol in it. But over time in the fridge, this becomes safer and safer because uh I think most of the recipes that for the eggnog, they come in when you're aging it at like roughly 20% or a little higher than 20% uh alcohol. And at those levels, uh you're stable from a bunch of things, right? Acetobacter is not really going to grow up there and turn your stuff to vinegar. You're not gonna get um a lot of fermentative action or from yeasts at that high alcohol level, and uh you're not gonna get any bacterial growth uh at that level.
+
+[13:10] In fact, you'll eventually be killing bacteria, which is why the longer that stuff sits, the safer it is. Now, there's still the possibility of a mold growing on top, so you just want to make sure that you know that doesn't happen. At least I'm pretty sure there's a possibility of mold growing on top. But you I'm not sure actually, but that's what I think. Uh now the other side of it is is that you have in that mix a bunch of different uh proteins, right?
+
+[13:31] So you have, I forget, did he use whole eggs or uh or just yolks? Let me see. Um use just yolks. Uh I think some recipes might call for a whole egg, but I'm not sure. Anyway, but you have proteins in the yolk, you have uh protein in the uh milk, uh, and protein in the cream.
+
+[13:49] All of these proteins are destabilized to a greater or lesser uh extent by the alcohol that's in there, and so over time are more likely to agglomerate with each other and thicken the beverage uh than they would in a normal aqueous solution, right? So over time, over slow time, uh at fridge temperatures, you should notice a thickening of uh the product. Now, I don't know whether there'll be ancillary thinning if you store it for you know, like two years or something like this. I don't know. But uh from everything I've read, you know, you will get uh a thickening that happens over the first three weeks, let's say.
+
+[14:22] Now, uh uh simultaneously with that, the products themselves are changing because they're not static, primarily probably due to um enzymatic reactions and just to different uh compounds in there combining with each other and altering their own flavors and knocking each other out. Yeah? Mm-hmm. Good job. So sh stuff should thicken.
+
+[14:38] If it doesn't thicken, give us a holler back and I'll tell you how to fake thicken it with something like uh, you know, a small amount of carrageenin or xanthan or some stuff, but you don't want to goop it up if you don't have to, right? You don't want to goop it up. Don't coop it up. Do you like do you like commercial eggnog? Mm-hmm.
+
+[14:52] See, this is what I love. Here's the thing, right? It's like here here we had this talk last week, right, about the Twinkies. It's like if you grow up liking some crap, then it doesn't matter whether it's high quality or not, right? Because that's what you grew up eating.
+
+[15:07] Is that how you feel about soda too, maybe? Soda? Uh see I okay. So I'm a little weird. I grew up drinking diet soda.
+
+[15:14] There was always diet soda in my house. I can't drink regular soda. It's like it's like drinking candy for me. But I can pound diet soda because there's like no no syrup. And I like I don't I don't I haven't drunk it in a long time, so now it tastes chemically to me.
+
+[15:28] So it's not it's it's not as awesome as it used to be. You know what I mean? Uh whereas I used to pound, pound, pound it, you know what I mean? Like back in the back in the saccharine days, I was pounding it, you know. Like uh I went through saccharine and then NutraSweet.
+
+[15:42] Uh I don't you know I never got used to the Splendor crap. And I won't drink stevia, that stuff's wretched. But I I mean now nowadays, you know, ever since college, when I went to college, okay, look, people who live in the East Coast, seltzer is freaking cheap, right? Like since since I've been a little kid, it's like two bottles for a dollar, vintage seltzers, two bottles for a dollar. It's not big on the West Coast.
+
+[16:02] I don't think Seltzer's big on the West Coast. I think it's an East Coast thing. Like out in the West Coast, they drink sparkling waters. Uh but uh here in the here in New York, we drink seltzer water, you know? And then you get on the airplane and you're like, I want seltzer, and they're like, club soda?
+
+[16:16] You know, you're like, no, I want like ripping New York seltzer water. It's not just New York, but you know what I mean. Uh, and uh that stuff is cheap as hell. So when I went to college, because I'm a I'm a cheap skin flint, some some you know what, right? And so I was like, I'm gonna train myself to like seltzer.
+
+[16:33] I hated seltzer when I was a little kid. Uh I only liked soda and and crystal light. Uh and if you uh cause I because I believe in me. And the uh they what I did is I just sat there and for like a week straight drank only seltzer, and then now ever since then I couldn't couldn't get enough. And then when I went to freegan uh college, which is why I trained myself, not only did they have soda and seltzer on tap, so I didn't need to train myself for the dining hall, not only that, but if you go to the freaking, because I never shopped at convenience stores before because I lived in the suburbs and we shopped at a supermarket, right?
+
+[17:07] So I go there and I find out that in a convenience store they rip you off equally for all kinds of soda, whether or not they put flavorings in it or not. And then when I'm showing up at a store and I have two bottles, right? One that contains just sparkling water, and the other one which contains sparkling water, flavor, color, and aspartame, I'm like, well, I'll be goddamned if I'm gonna pay Canada Dry the same amount of money for putting less crap in the bottle. And so even though I liked it less, I would buy the soda. That is how freaking cheap and demented I am.
+
+[17:36] You are cheaper. Yeah, you should take a commercial break? Sure. Alright, commercial break, coming back with cooking issues. Today's program is brought to you by Regional Access.
+
+[17:49] Regional Access is a regional distributor committed to creating sustainable economies throughout the Northeast. This community-oriented company was built on a vision of providing ecologically responsible and epically produced food to area consumers. During a typical week at the Regional Access Warehouse, they help move thousands of pounds of natural and grass-fed meat, gallons of farm fresh dairy, and tons of organic and specialty foods from producer to market. Having been in the distribution business for almost 25 years, Regal Access's experience and knowledge make them uniquely equipped to build out their region's food web. Up in the Finger Lakes, Regional Access will continue to champion the region's bounty and work toward a sustainable food system for the entire Northeast.
+
+[18:30] For more information, visit RegionalAccess.net. And we're back! Alright, so calling your questions to 718497-2128. That's 718497-2128. Got uh some hot sauce in from New Zealand.
+
+[18:54] Do you remember uh like I don't know, it was a while ago we had some questions in from New Zealand about hot sauces, about how to preserve them? Well, it it turns out that Rory M. the person who uh was making the sauce, having the questions from New Zealand, a place that I would love to go, uh, ever since uh when I was uh, you know, wat watching Xena Warrior Princess, great program. Were you more of a fan of Hercules or Xena Warrior Princess? I didn't watch either.
+
+[19:16] Really? Mm-hmm. Why? Because people liked it. Was it on cable, I think?
+
+[19:19] It wasn's not on cable. It was like channels, well, this is channel 11, I thought, yeah. Yeah, out here it's 11, yeah, PIX or whatever. Crap channel. Are you on crack?
+
+[19:27] Listen, like, you know, like Xena Warrior Princess and Hercules. That was the crap channel, dude. Did you be called the WB? Didn't he just be called something else? Yeah.
+
+[19:35] WB. Right. I can't believe that you're calling Xena and Hercules crap. That was that was like that. That was groundbreaking TV back then.
+
+[19:44] Xena, Xena was like, you know, one of those early, like, you know, Wonder Woman was, she was kind of like demure, like, you know, super heroine. Xena, like, was like kicking ass and taking names all the time. All the time. You have no appreciation for that? I do, but I don't care about that.
+
+[20:02] Yeah, I liked the idea of it more than the actual thing. Oh man. You guys are very depressing. Depressing name. Okay.
+
+[20:09] Anywho, uh, Rory dropped off some hot sauce, and we're gonna taste it here uh on uh the air. Uh it's called 90 Mile Mild Capsicum sauce from due north. Although due north, it's interesting. Is it like he's actually due south? He's in New Zealand, and the and the brand here is due north.
+
+[20:25] Weird. Is it due north or do oh north? I can't read very well. Anywho, uh, so the taste of it is mild, it's very peppery, and it reminds me kind of of a liquid form of I mean, I and I hope this is kind of what you're shooting for liquid form of you. You know, peppa do peppers, the ones that come from uh from South Africa, they bring them in there, they sell them in uh in in kind of uh high-end grocery stores of the sweet red peppers that are served in Bryan.
+
+[20:48] Nope. You really don't know what they're holding on? Maybe. I mean, if I saw it. I forgot if you saw it, and oh my god.
+
+[20:53] Okay. So we'll taste that in a minute. But meanwhile, here's the question. As promised to sample the sauce you and your listeners helped out with. All the way from New Zealand.
+
+[21:01] A question for the show. Well, here in New York, I bought one of those flexi mesh bread molds with the aim of cutting it in half so it will fit in a home oven. However, the salesman at JB Prince, I wonder who it was. I think it was Tim? He's not really on the floor that much.
+
+[21:13] Said that this would expose the fiberglass, which would then burn. How can I get around this? Is there any way to seal off the fibers once cut? Happy to try anything. Keep up the awesome work and excuse the Yeah, he says excuse the ghetto note, but I was told that you're not that you have to say budget now.
+
+[21:28] Oh, oh. Is that true? I don't know. Anyway. We've been on the road for five weeks now.
+
+[21:34] Regards, Rory M. Alright, Rory, listen. Fiberglass will not burn. Fiberglass will not burn. Fiberglass won't burn because it's glass.
+
+[21:42] However, uh there might be some problem of fraying at the edges. And it is true that on the edges I've seen, because you've seen Silpat Stas at the at this back at the school that are cut, and they always start getting really brittle and fraying around where they're cut. So there might be something else going on there, but fiberglass itself is glass and hence won't burn. If you want to seal it, because you don't want little fibers pulling out and getting brittle and it fracturing and breaking apart on you, which I have seen happen. Um it might be possible to uh get some adhesion of silicone on silicone and to actually just paint some silicone on it.
+
+[22:16] The problem is you have to make sure that you get food grade silicones. There are, and I don't know if all silicones are compatible with each other. You know what I mean, Stas? And then also you have to be sure that it is indeed silicone, uh, which I think they are. I'm pretty sure the one you're talking about are the ones at JB Prints are the thin brown ones that you can kind of see the mesh inside of.
+
+[22:36] Um but anyway, uh it might be possible. I don't know how there's Teflon tapes that can handle very high heats, but I d uh and they're meant for things like vacuum machines uh on the seal rod. And you might be able to take Teflon tape and put it over the thing, but I'd have to double check to see how high the adhesive temperature uh can take in those things. Uh because that's going to be your main uh your main problem is going to be uh the adhesive tape on the on those Teflon tapes going bad. But I can give a check and then uh give a shout out on the Twitter later because I just go to McMaster and look up the uh the temperature range on the adhesive.
+
+[23:11] Yeah, Stas? McMaster. McMaster. We got some spoons coming in in a minute, Rory, and we'll taste your sauce live on the air. Okay.
+
+[23:18] Um I have a Twitter question, if I can just fast track that through. Doug, go ahead. From Mark Hayes, and it says gluten-free ramen, alkaline rice noodles, possible. Looking for answers. The uh your the way you say that reminds me of this.
+
+[23:34] I don't know if I talked about this on the air. I was in Italy many years ago and they had a McDonald's thing. It was a McDonald's ad. And then in uh Italian underneath, it said, Mick resistid? Mick resist?
+
+[23:49] Anyway, uh it's stuck in my head for like forever. Um so you know, here's the deal. The wr with the ramen noodles, what you're doing is is you're trying to strengthen the gluten proteins, right? And so since there aren't those things in there, I don't think you're gonna get the firming effect because the firming effect from the alkaline uh stuff isn't due to a starch bolstering uh aspect, it's due to a protein bolstering aspect. Because gluten, uh the gluten network gets stronger as things become more alkaline.
+
+[24:22] Um, to a point. Uh now that said, I believe someone else asked about you should text uh pipe no a piper who is like our resident gluten-free expert because he himself is gluten-free and is good at researching things. By choice. Whoa, wow, I'm gonna have to tell him about that bus throw you just did there. But you know, uh because he uh is like that, you think he would work on it, but I'm like, Piper, have you thought of anything good with that?
+
+[24:48] He's like, no, it's all garbage. And then, but you know who uh you know who thanks, you know who is not gluten-free but thinks about this a lot is Mark Ladner from Del Posto. We could ask him to see what he's gonna do stuff or something. See if he's come up with anything, but he doesn't deal with uh with ramen style stuff. Right.
+
+[25:04] He thinks about it. I mean, specifically, like it's the buttons. I'll I'll think about it. I'll see if anyone has done uh any research. Stas, can you send me uh uh like an email to do some research today and then I'll email it back to you and next week we can talk about it.
+
+[25:16] Yeah? Mm-hmm. Yeah? Okay. Uh righty.
+
+[25:20] Uh Josh from San Francisco writes in Hi Dave Nastasha, Jack and Joe. Recently set up my own home carbonation rig with a five-pound CO2 tank. After drinking gallons of soda water, I'd like to try my hand at carbonated cocktails. What are your recommendations for carbonated cocktails to make at home without a centrifuge? I know you mentioned on the last show that you can make your gin and juice recipe using only agar clarification, and I'd like to give that a try.
+
+[25:42] Is clarification absolutely necessary for these recipes? Any other good ones I can try, clarify it or not. Thanks and love the show, Josh from San Francisco. Well, looky. If you're gonna put juice into a carbonated cocktail and you want to get the kind of levels of carbonation that, you know, uh that I like, then you're gonna need to clarify because otherwise you're gonna get just loads and loads of foaming.
+
+[26:05] If you don't want to clarify it and you want to if if you really don't want to clarify, uh a simple agar clarification is not that difficult. It takes only like a half an hour. Stas hates it. Right? She won't do it.
+
+[26:17] It's one of the things that she refuses to do. You know that list grows every day. Every day, the list of stuff that Nastasha will review. I was emailing you about the gluten-free ramen. I was like, you hate clarifying agar clarification.
+
+[26:28] I hate agar clarification. I will not do that. Yeah, but like I'm saying that list keeps growing. You're like, you're like, I've done it. Uh I don't need to do it ever again.
+
+[26:36] Remember all that. She hates the like one time we had we had one time we had a problem, right? And we were doing an event for, I don't know, many hundreds of people. And we did freeze thaw and something messed up, like some somebody messed something up with the freeze thaw, and the freeze thaw was broken. So then we had to all set it and we needed it within like two hours.
+
+[26:57] That was a rancid, rancid day. Remember that? We got it done. Yes. We got it done.
+
+[27:02] It was just a just a damn nightmare. Uh anywho. So look, I mean, you can start out with carbonated cocktails just doing like simple things that aren't clarified. If you like whiskey soda, you can make whiskey soda. I don't happen to like whiskey soda very much, but you can make whiskey sodas.
+
+[27:17] That's not a problem. Just make sure you chill everything. You can then move to what I call fluffing existing cocktails. So just taking tonic and gin, chilling the hell out of them, and then carbonating that uh 42 PSI, if it's roughly minus seven or eight uh Celsius. Uh, but you know, like that's the first step without having to clarify.
+
+[27:37] Then add stuff like lime juice at the end. So if you're gonna do a clarified drink, and and even if you're gonna make your own tonic and or make your own mixers, if you're only adding a small amount of unclarified juice, let's say you're adding a half ounce of lime juice at the end, then just carbonate almost everything and then put the lime juice in at the end, and that's gonna be least damaging to your carbonation levels. Alternately, if you have to add something that you know is gonna foam, only put a small amount of uh product in your bottles and carbonate it like like instead of three times, which was normally what I do with carbonation three times, do it like five, six, seven, eight times and really blast all the air off the little nucleation sites that you have inside of the um of the lime juice or whatever juice you're using. You're never gonna get as low a foam amount as you would in, and therefore you're never gonna get as high a carbonation amount as you would if you um clarified it. But uh the more you get rid because there's there's surface active compounds in the lime juice that cause it to foam no matter what, uh, you will reduce somewhat the amount of foaming you'll get, and you'll get a better result with uh unclarified juice if you just carbonate many, many times.
+
+[28:45] What do you think? Mm-hmm. Yeah. She's like, but I don't care. I don't care.
+
+[28:48] Phil from Bristol, UK. By we have another question. We gotta get to Phil's question before the end. Wait, yeah. Right?
+
+[28:54] My Phil, right? Your Phil. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Okay. Phil, but not not your Phil, different Phil.
+
+[29:00] Phil from Bristol writes in Hello to Dave, Nastasha, and the gang. A year or so ago I had a kick a kick, I can say kick-ass, can I? Because it's a movie. Mm-hmm. Did you like that movie?
+
+[29:11] I've never seen it. You gave me all the synopsis I needed. Yeah, I didn't see the second one. Uh I had a kick-ass piece of eggplant dengaku uh in uh Barcelona of all places. The miso topping, it's you know, it's the grilled uh grilled X, Y, or Z with the Miso stuff.
+
+[29:25] Dengaku. Um the miso topping itself was great, but what was truly draw jobing was the eggplant. The center was creamy but structurally intact. The skin retained its blue black color. I've been trying to recreate this.
+
+[29:38] So far, the closest I've come is by steaming the eggplant in a pressure cooker initially. This reproduces the cream texture, and the absence of physical agitation goes some way to maintaining the structure. The absence of cooking in oil also improves, in my opinion, uh eggplantiness of the eggplant. Off topic, this pressure steam precook is also great for fish fragrant eggplant, a recipe for which you can get in uh fuchsia Dunlop's um book. I forget which one it's in.
+
+[30:03] I don't think it's Landa Plenty. I think it's uh every grain of rice or whatever. The new anyway. Uh the uh fish fragrant eggplant. However, hitting the sweet spot between perfectly cooked and overdone is difficult because of course you're in a press cooker.
+
+[30:15] Uh and the skin still gets that tired. Okay. Tired, dull brown look. That's a good way to describe it. Like anyone like trying to describe some tired, tired, dull brown look.
+
+[30:25] Can you offer any advice? I know who looked tired. Who? Uh Meredith Viera last night at that award show. What award show?
+
+[30:32] At uh Autism Speaks. Oh, she was there? Yeah. Yeah. Tired.
+
+[30:36] Tired. Wow, that's rough. Why are you hating on Meredith Viera all of a sudden? Hating on Meredith Vieira. It brought to mind her face.
+
+[30:43] What the hell? Jack, you getting this? Are you there? Listening to this like just like hate down, like woman on woman, hate down for no reason. I was a woman.
+
+[30:50] I could tell you somebody else looked tired. That was a man. I'll think about it. Alright, you think about that and try to try to be, you know, equal opportunity with your tired. You know?
+
+[30:58] You know what I used to call? You know what I used to call people who who like look tired? I call them Merle, like Merle Haggard, because Haggard means haggard, but Merle is also haggard looking. You know I love Merle Haggard. Don't I want to hear anything?
+
+[31:09] I love Merle Haggard. Okay. Uh, okay. Uh off topic, this pressure steam pre cook, also great for fish fragrant eggplant, which contains no fish, by the way. It's just like in the sauce that you might also cook fish in.
+
+[31:20] Fish fragrant. Anyway. Uh, however, hitting the sweet spot between perfectly cooked and overdone is difficult, and the skin gets that tired, dull brown look that Meredith Viera might enjoy, according to Nastasha. Uh well, I'm just repeating what she said. I think that's a horrible thing to say and kind of you know inappropriate.
+
+[31:35] Okay. Uh so much so that I had to repeat it. Can you offer any advice? Would using peptin methylesterase or something similar be a way of cooking the eggplant without breaking it down? Would an alkaline solution applied to the skin mean that the anthocyanins maintained their uh would maintain their blueness?
+
+[31:50] And do you have any more advice for getting more eggplantiness out of the eggplant? Thanks for all the great advice down the years and best wishes. Phil from Bristol. Okay, well, listen. When anthocyanins go brown, it sounds like a like a like a like a PSA that you're about to.
+
+[32:04] When anthocyanins go brown. Uh when anthocyanins go brown, that's not usually a pH shift problem, right? pH shift problems with anthocyanins are blue to red. So in a in uh an alkaline situation, the anthocyanins are gonna be more blue, uh, and in uh acidic situations, anthocyanins are gonna be more red. Uh and in fact, uh what you were writing back and you know the Japanese prep that Denkaku made me think about in in Japan, they have, and I think I don't know because they didn't let me see it, but they these Tsukimono, these pickles, they had these, uh do you remember these?
+
+[32:34] Did you have them when we were there, or was it after you when we weren't together? They had those bright blue pickled eggplants at the breakfast. Yeah, yeah. Yeah, they were bright blue. And Megita's, I asked McGee, I was like, what the hell, Mickey?
+
+[32:46] How do they do this? But I think I was looking up the pH of rice bran pickles, which is I think how those are done, and they're only mildly uh they're only mildly acidic. Like they're fairly close to neutral, so the anthocyanin is gonna maintain their blueness. So these pickles are bright brew. I think McGee said that he thinks that they just add food color into it, they just cheat.
+
+[33:04] But uh those things are amazing, and it might be true that fermentation in that case is also helping to preserve some of the eggplant color with the anthocyanin. Okay, back to where we're back to what we're supposed to be talking about, which is uh the color. When stuff goes brown, it's usually a result of two things. Either you've cooked it to the point where it's brown, made it crispy, browned it, right? Or you have some sort of uh enzymatic issue.
+
+[33:26] And uh eggplant contains a whole bunch of, and we talked about it earlier in the show with apples, polyphenol oxidase enzymes. And that's why you get a lot of browning in eggplant. Typically, what I do when I pre-treat an eggplant, or when I do when I treat an eggplant, I'm gonna fry it or do anything to it, is I'll throw it, uh, and I like eggplants dense because usually I'm doing Italian style preps where I'm gonna bread them and fry them because if you don't like eggplant parm, there's something wrong with you, right? That stuff's delicious. Right?
+
+[33:56] Eggplant Parm. I make a good eggplant. Hey, listen, let me say uncooking issues. Like like like you want like you want like like through the hoop, like down to your arm slam dunk kind of a situation, like elbow slam with stas. Any any hearty Italian, any hearty Italian fare.
+
+[34:14] What do you think I was gonna say? Sour bench kids. Oh, yeah, but only certain colors. But I mean like any hearty Italian fare that's properly done, as long as you cook it right. Nastash has no patience for uh undercooked or overcooked pastas or results.
+
+[34:27] I don't like undercooked pasta. But not risotto. You don't like undercooked risotto. Undercooked risotto is an abomination. You like undercooked pasta?
+
+[34:35] You like the pearl in the center? Mm-hmm. You're a gross human. I thought we had this discussion. Are you serious?
+
+[34:41] That's the way Mark cooks his pasta. No, I've been to his restaurant many times. He cooks it until it just. You know what? I'm gonna give you a feedback and a bag of raw pasta.
+
+[35:03] Let's have him make what I like and let's see what you think. If it's if it's if it's okay. We can do an on-air pasta tasting, right? Yeah. He hates undercooked risotto, right?
+
+[35:12] If you undercook risotto, you should die. That's gross. Wow, that's strong. Well, I mean, we we're all gonna die. But I mean is when you when you die, you'll be held to task for it if there is an after.
+
+[35:22] You know what I mean? They'll be like, you undercooked risotto. That'll be like one of the things in the list. You know what I mean? Yeah.
+
+[35:30] You stole that twinkie, you undercooked risotto. Uh anywho, so uh what were we talking about? I don't remember. What the hell are we talking about? Oh, eggplant palm.
+
+[35:40] Uh uh, eggplant. So anyway, so if you're like, I think the main problem is is that you need to uh cook the eggplant in an absence of oxygen and relatively quickly in order to preserve the color. This is my guess. I wasn't able to find any actual scientific literature on it, but that is my guess. So uh, you know, your pressure steaming, uh probably the issue is is that oxygen is getting to it as it's being as as the pressure, as the steam is coming up, uh oxygen's getting to it before this stuff.
+
+[36:07] I mean you might want to try doing a pre-plunge in boiling water before the thing is cooked, just to set the anthocyanins at the skin and destroy the polyphenol oxidase enzymes. The problem there is when you cut it, if you haven't inactivated the enzymes all the way through, my guess is that you uh you'd still have the issues because the enzymes, if any of the enzymes that aren't inactivated get to the skin, this that stuff will happen. I think. I have to do some tests. But anyways, uh what I was getting to is if you have a vacuum machine and you put and you s and you right before you're gonna do it, you just slice the eggplant, let's say, into kind of large pieces, like not grilling pieces, throw them in a vacuum bag, add some ascorbic acid to it, not a lot, you don't want it tart, but just to get rid of some uh to you know, have its antioxidant power be high before it didn't suck a vacuum on it, the flesh will condense and go bright green uh as it condenses, and the skin will maintain its color, and then if you blanch off in the bag, you should be able to maintain a perfect color on the eggplant.
+
+[36:59] Then you can cut it out of the bag and do any finished cooking you do. You will affirm the inside because you're gonna get rid of all of the um air that's on the inside. You will have if you salted it right when you threw it in the bag, you'll also have gotten some of the liquid out that makes it soggy. Uh and lastly but not leastly, because it's condensed, it will be more eggplanty. What do you think?
+
+[37:23] Good. Yeah? Is that an answer? Yeah? Eggplant palm?
+
+[37:27] It's a lot of work. We our vacuum machine works, right? Oh, you mean just vac it and then take it home and fry it off or whatever? Why? Do you have to cook dinner for someone?
+
+[37:34] No. Me. Well, good news about eggplant palm, sucker keeps. Oh, let's try uh before we get kicked off the air today, because we have to leave at strict one o'clock. Why don't we taste the uh 90 mile mile capsecum sauce from due north in New Zealand?
+
+[37:49] There we go. There, take now. Remember, it's on a sweeter side. It's not like a hot, it's not like a hot pepper sauce. It's like on the sweet side.
+
+[37:57] It's good. Really good. It's good, right? It's like an intense pepper flavor, but like some sweetness. It's really good.
+
+[38:04] I like it. Uh Rory, I think that you make a good product. That's a hat trick of things Nastasia likes too. Yeah, you want to hey Jack, you want to come in here and try it? Do you have you tried peppa do peppers before?
+
+[38:13] There's a definite note of that kind of peppa do kind of flavor. Let me try some. Yeah, there's a sugar. I don't know a ton. I don't know what the sugar ratio is.
+
+[38:19] It's a sweet, it's a sweet pepper sauce. Um but it's got like a next question. Mild heat at the end. Get to the what? Next question.
+
+[38:29] Keeping me on task. On task. Alright. Uh, wait. Oh my god, some of the questions are gone.
+
+[38:35] Oh, here they are. Okay. Um The Evening Bruise. What do you think, Jack? Pretty good.
+
+[38:40] Yeah? Yeah, nice. All right. Uh, the evening bruise writes in and says, How do you make your hop tincture and how do you use it? So uh we make a hop tincture, and all we do is we take a very high um uh an uh a hops with very high alpha acids, meaning very bitter, um uh roughly 13%.
+
+[38:57] It's called Simcoe. I also happen to like the aroma of it. We take 15 grams of that, half ounce, and we put it into shoot, I think it's 250 mils of uh vodka, 40% vodka. I put uh throw that in an ISI whipper, put two chargers on that, uh so it's a high pressure, shake the hell out of it and just let it sit for a half an hour, vent it off, and then pour it out. Now, here's what's interesting about it is that I was extremely nervous about this thing because it's so so hoppy uh about it getting skunked.
+
+[39:27] But the fact of the matter is it doesn't get skunked. Like I haven't had it skunk out. I'm gonna run one more test on it because I have another one to see whether the flavor is changed if I uh actually heat it in the ISI for a little bit. Maybe I can uh uh do some more like isomerization of the uh of the humulones in there and then maybe it would skunk out later. I don't know.
+
+[39:47] I'm gonna run some more tests. Uh but I also you know I I like it in in drinks and seltzer, it's good. I like it. It's good. It's a good product, right?
+
+[39:55] Okay, now uh Jason Molinari at cured meats puts in a comment about the refrigerator and humidity that we had before. Uh and he says, at cooking issues, fridges run about 30% relative humidity at 38 degrees Fahrenheit, which means it can hydrate or slash dehydrate depending on the item, as we had suspected on the air. Uh, you can dry panchetta in the fridge, but it will ruin Bridhole. Right? Yeah?
+
+[40:20] Don't care. Uh M. Nielsen writes in. Uh uh, he is at OS WebGuy. At OS WebGuy.
+
+[40:28] Uh, at cooking Issues, I noticed you keep mentioning Sandor Katz's art of fermentation. Do you have any other required readings? Thinking of gifts. I said I would think about it and get back to it. But here's the here's the issue.
+
+[40:39] Uh like a lot of the books that I keep going back to aren't necessarily recipe books. It's just books that I've fallen in love with for one reason or another. Uh, I think that for GIS, a really amazing gift, if someone has the bookshelf space for it, is to go on uh eBay or ABE books, because it's hard to buy them, they're expensive when you buy them as a complete set. There's I think 20 in change volumes. But the entire Time Life, uh, the Time Life Foods of the World series from the late 60s to early 70s is still one of the great achievements of uh kind of you know, back in the day, Time Life had all these libraries like Library of the Wild West, Library of the Air War in Europe, library of the blah blah.
+
+[41:23] You know what I mean? But this is really, really amazingly well done. And in and and I make it a habit, kind of a dumb habit. People are like, what the hell are you talking about? Anytime I meet someone from a country uh that uh where that's published on one of those books, I'm like, hey, you see the uh Time Life uh foods of the world about your uh by your homeland there.
+
+[41:41] Yeah? You like it? And they're always like, yeah, you know what I mean? They uh they always like it, which is a really good sign. It's got a lot of documentation, amazing pictures.
+
+[41:49] They hired amazing writers. It's not a recipe book, like the recipes are actually in a whole separate series of volumes that you have to get, little spiral bound guys, but just really fantastic cultural document, and I go back to that all the time. Another wacky one that's perverse is uh oh my god, the name of it just went out of my head. I always just call it Pella Peleprat. It's the uh art of modern French cooking or modern or art of whatever Pella Pratt is what everyone calls it.
+
+[42:12] And there's a bunch of different editions. The addition that's from uh I think like the late 70s or early 80s has like the most over the top weird color photographs in it of like just demented preparations. Love that sucker. I go back and look at that all the time at the pictures. And on that same note, because they came out by the same Engl American or English publisher, is um oh my gosh, what's it the heck's it called?
+
+[42:35] My brain just got erased. Is uh the international buffet book. It's the same thing, it's but it's like it's like all of the all of the highly touched food that no one likes anymore, like lobsters that are split open on the back, sliced, gelled with aspic, and like layered all over the uh lobster, but like just like you know that billions of tiny hands have touched tiny, I don't know why they're tiny, have touched like the the lobster uh everywhere and like like just aspics and gels everywhere. And I love looking at that just for like straight up crazy, crazy talk, right? Um I mean, obviously on the newer side for what you know I do for a living, modernist the modernist cuisine book, you kind of have to go get that, right?
+
+[43:11] I mean, if you don't have it already and if you have a lot of money. Um let me think. I'll think I'll think of some I'll think of some more of it. Like these are the ones that like whenever I want inspiration, I go and look at those time life books because I can basically you know cherry pick from around the world just by going to it. Then when I have like a you know, question a specific question on specific problem, like tofu, I haven't gotten the new one yet, so I go to shirtleaf.
+
+[43:33] Uh fermentation, I go hit cats. Uh oh, duh McGee's book. I'm assuming anyone that listens to this already has on food and cooking, right? You gotta have that. That's like the prime reference for most of the things uh that I do for hydrocolloids.
+
+[43:45] If you're you know, friend is a sciencey or nerd like that you want to get for uh handbook of hydrocolloids is pricey, and they have a newer edition of it, so I think it might be up to date. It wasn't up to date for a while, but I think they might have a new edition that's up to date. Um I'll try to think of some more. Maybe we'll give a couple book recommendations each time. That'd be fun, Stas.
+
+[43:59] Mm-hmm. Maybe you want to give like a like a mini like book, like just book review thing kind of like not review, but like books that are good to get. Yeah. Yeah. Alright.
+
+[44:11] We'll do that. Uh anyway, hopefully that gets you uh started. Um Phil's question. Not yet. What?
+
+[44:17] No, I'll go to Phil's question because we're gonna get kicked off the air pretty soon. So why don't you why don't you give uh Phil's question for me since Phil's question is what can you substitute for tilapia because all other fish is so expensive? Yeah. Uh well, uh you can just substitute dirt. Or you can substitute, I mean, tilapia, okay.
+
+[44:38] Look. Uh everybody knows that everybody hates tilapia. Does anyone like tilapia? I don't think so. No, right.
+
+[44:47] Nobody likes it, right? Yeah. Jack, you like it? Nope. It's bad, right?
+
+[44:52] It's bad fish. It's bad fish. Here's the thing. You know how there's the you know how there's like this one you got from Taiwan. Remember that label I sent you?
+
+[44:58] Oh, I don't know. You know it's just garbage. Here's the deal. You know the old phrase they are you are what you eat. And in some ways that's true.
+
+[45:05] Like take take the pig, for instance, right? So depending on what a pig eats, right? The fatty acid uh component of the of the fat in a pig will change based on what it eats. So if it eats uh you know a lot of nuts, it'll have an oilier fat base in it in its meat, and the fat structure will change. If it eats a lot of, you know, uh grain or corn, it's gonna have a firmer fat, right?
+
+[45:28] Uh because in essence, uh in a way, uh it is what it eats. However, right, the pig is kind of uh is a gift from the heavens in that it takes garbage, right, and doesn't like make itself into garbage. It's not a pig is not a walking piece of garbage. A pig transforms uh garbage into amazing, delicious food, right? It's kind of like it it is an it is like the uh it's like an alchemist.
+
+[46:00] It touches lead and turns it to gold. It touches apples that are full of worms and have fallen on the ground and are useless and turns them into delicious pig flesh, right? It takes the whey slop that's left over from making parmesan and cheese and turns it into prosciutto uh deparma, right? It takes whatever crap you have lying around and turns it into pig meat. And I don't see how anyone can argue with that, right?
+
+[46:25] That's straight up delicious. Now take the tilapia on the other hand. The tilapia is the living, breathing, swimming embodiment of filth and garbage. It lives in filth and garbage and is filth and garbage. There is a uh a compound called giosmin, which tastes like dirt and is produced by the bacteria that live in the filthy, filthy, fresh, crappy pools where they grow this monstrosity of a fish.
+
+[47:00] The very best thing you can say about a tilapia is that it has no food no flavor at all. You're like, you're like, man, that was a good tilapia. I couldn't taste it at all. Right? The other thing you can do with tilapia, uh with anything that's it kind of contaminated with geosmine, like for instance, certain catfish, is if you acidify the hell out of it, right?
+
+[47:21] Then that kind of takes away some of that geosmind flavor. G geosmith, whatever you pronounce it, takes it away, right? Somewhat. Uh, you know, masks it actually chemically uh removes the smell of that stuff. Uh so people are like, tilapia is great in the fish taco.
+
+[47:36] Are you sure it wasn't all the freaking toppings that you put on the taco and you could have put anything like a human finger in the taco and you would have thought it was good. You know what I mean? Had nothing to do with the tilapia itself. It has to do with all the crazy toppings you put and this is an argument I have all the time. This is why people who make uh meat analogues that are poor quality.
+
+[47:55] I mean people are working on a high end meat analogs. I'm not ranking on them, but you know one of the arguments of uh people who uh make meat analogs is well people can't taste the meat anyway, right? So what they're shooting for is exactly the kind of person who is okay with the tilapia because they don't really care about the flavor of the product itself because they're just gonna sauce the beeg they're gonna overcook the hell out of it anyway. So any quality that's gonna be there is gonna be destroyed. And then they're gonna sauce the bejesus out of it so that it doesn't really matter what the substrate tastes like.
+
+[48:25] So yeah it might as well be texturized vegetable protein underneath it. Now it is now I've never had texturized vegetable protein with the exact uh texture of a fish but at least texturized vegetable protein doesn't taste like dirt. Uh another thing you could do is Jasmin is a uh or Jasmine however you pronounce it is uh is a uh a component in beets so if you want you could just grind up some beet puree don't peel it though because you want to get most of that dirty stuff in right puree that sum gunk you can cook it puree it dehydrate it to a powder and then just encrust the tilapia in more dirt beady flavor right? Right? Yeah, tilapia.
+
+[49:01] You know, here's the thing. You know what tilapia is gonna be good for? Like, here's the good thing. Tilapia, like the fact that it can grow in filth and garbage, uh, makes it really great for these like aquaponic culture things where the plants have their roots, and then they in the thing and they just feed garbage to tilapia. tilapia eats the garbage, produces tilapia, i.e.
+
+[49:24] garbage, and then poops, and the poop is eaten by bacteria, which then make the nitrogen from the from the tilapia poop into stuff that the plants can uh eat, right? And then the plants grow, and then they have like a uh a greenhouse over it, and they heat the whole sucker with compost so that you can live in Wisconsin somewhere and produce like like zillions of pounds of poor quality food in uh but you know, whatever. It's new nutrition-wise, it's not poor quality, just taste, in like a box without a lot of inputs. And that's very interesting. So it seems to me that tilapia will rule the world when we're colonizing space, and we're all living in kind of microgravity, like centripetal gravity uh uh space stations that are spinning to keep the water on the outside of the space station so that the tilapia can be spinning around.
+
+[50:08] And they need these kind of self like made systems. Like, you know, when you go to the museum in natural history and they have those giant glass spheres that have like three brine shrimp in it, and like the little plant, and they just it's a constant cycle. So when we're living like that, then tilapia is the way to go. Otherwise, substitute dirt fill cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on heritageradio network.org.
+
+[50:38] You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today.
+
+[51:02] Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Heritage Foods USA, the nation's largest distributor of heritage breed pigs and turkeys. For more information, visit Heritage Foods USA.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:36] This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from a Burner's Pizzeria in Bushwick Brooklyn on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from roughly 12 to roughly 1245 or 1, something like that. Hey Stas, how are you doing? I'm doing alright. Joined as usual with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez and the guys in the engineering booth. How you guys doing over there?
+
+[0:52] Just just Jack today. Just Jack. Old school. Old school. You know, you know, no offense to anyone else, but you know.
+
+[0:58] I like just Jack. Feels good to have the just Jack. Thanks, guys. Yeah, Jack Jack's the man. Jack Insley, aka the man.
+
+[1:05] You got anything uh good going on the Heritage Radio Networks that we need to know about? New website launch. Yeah, when is that gonna happen? It's up. It's it when did it go up?
+
+[1:13] Uh we had a little soft launch happen last week and it's up now. Uh we also have our own kind of like storefront in the iTunes store now. So you can see Heritage Radio Network has its own kind of channel. And right now on the front page, they're featuring our Alice Waters Evolutionaries, kind of Alice's life story, is on the front page of the iTunes Podcast Store. Oh, nice.
+
+[1:34] Now that's fun. Let me ask you a question. Do we sell anything other than us? Nope. No, all right.
+
+[1:38] That's why you should donate. Yes. Yes. Uh all right. Well, that's good news.
+
+[1:44] I'm gonna go check that out. And we did you already tell these guys like like like a little blurb on what they're gonna get out of the new website, what it's gonna do that they couldn't get before from the heritage radio netw department of in-house produced content. So we've got six sort of categories pleasure, health, news, opinion, business, science, and technology. And we're both from the programs weekly and then just from scratch in the office putting together in-house content. So kind of transitioning to more news, more reporting, um, stuff like that.
+
+[2:16] It's really good stuff. Nice. Uh all right then. Well, uh, let's take some questions. Call in your questions to 718497-2128.
+
+[2:24] That's 784972128. And just so you guys know, I can't personally check my tweets during the uh show because I'm talking during the show. So if you have questions you want to tweet in, if you don't want to call in, tweet it to at Heritage Radio Network. Is that right, Jack? It's at heritage underscore radio.
+
+[2:40] Shows what the hell I know. Yeah. You know what? Close. How's it that I know nothing?
+
+[2:44] How long did it take me, Jack, to memorize our telephone numbers? Yeah, it's still a process. Took like a like a year and a half for me to memorize our telephone number. Well, whatever. So Devin Stone tweeted in uh at Cooking Issues, Trader Joe's sells most of their protein in vacuum bags, some clear, some black.
+
+[2:58] Are they low temperature safe? Devin, I wasn't able to find anything uh off the bat on the composition of the Trader Joe's uh bags, and I dreaded, but I will do during the next week, uh fighting my way up the corporate ladder to find a human being who knows what the hell's going on. But everyone knows what a pain in the butt it is to deal with corporations like that, right, Stas? But I will tell you something about Trader Joe's. Uh I you know, Stas, what are your feelings on Trader Joe's?
+
+[3:20] They're okay. They're well, what do you really think? I don't like their Hawaiian shirts. You don't like their Hawaiian shirts? Yeah.
+
+[3:26] Well, you know, I always kind of like I was fine with Trader Joe's. I had no problem with Trader Joe's uh until I found this out. You ready for this? Are you familiar with the Bread and Life? Uh Bread and Life is like uh they provide food for people that don't have it and they take donations.
+
+[3:38] They're they're here in Brooklyn, actually. Yeah, yeah, you know Bread Joe. Good friends of the station. Yeah, good friends of the station. Well, Jack, you might be interested to know this, and I'm not telling anyone to change their buying behavior based on this, but uh a lot of the big food purveyors uh around, like Whole Foods and whatnot, right?
+
+[3:53] They will give their uh like the day before their stuff is gonna expire, they'll they'll take it off the shelves and they'll give it to organizations like Bread and Life who will instantly cook with it so that they can get it out before the expiry date, right? And then they're not throwing away or wasting all this food, right? That makes sense, doesn't it? Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[4:10] Trader Joe's doesn't because they think it's too much of a hassle. They specifically destroy the food, throw it out in dumpsters instead of giving it uh to Bread and Life because they think it's gonna be too much of a hassle. So that I know Yeah, so I know some of the the higher ups at Bread and Life uh you know have stopped buying at Trader Joe's, and uh, you know, my wife encourages me to stop buying a Trader Joe's. I haven't done enough research yet, but I mean I'm hoping this is just that's just like some sort of like corporate like brain uh w whatever you want to call it on the air, and that they maybe could change their policies. But if anyone who's listening knows anyone at Trader Joe's and wants to, I don't know, comment on that or have maybe figure out a way to change their policies, because literally they the Bread and Life people were told, it's just too much of a headache for us to give all this free food that we're gonna throw away to all the people who need it.
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+[4:56] It's terrible. That sucks, right, Jack? See, now with our in-house kind of production, I'm I'm thinking we're gonna have to call Trader Joe's and get a comment, follow up on this. Yeah, because that that's that's crap, right? We'll report back to you.
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+[5:07] That is crap. That's crap. I uh that that is what we here at the Heritage Radio Network like to refer to as a load of crap. Um, okay, caller, you're on the air. Hey, this is John Doe.
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+[5:18] Hey, how you doing? I j I was gonna uh call out one of your tweets there that you uh let me see if let me find it here. There it is. Uh finally made fish sauce cured bacon, freaking delicious. I saw the picture, so uh uh tell us about it.
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+[5:30] So um basically uh Piper gave me the um base brine and uh I just replaced the the salt with fish sauce and it was actually around um eight percent. So then um I just boosted it a bit to get to the twelve and a half and then just added brown sugar and water uh to the appropriate percentages to to get the the brine. Then uh uh left it in the fridge, uh probably a little bit longer than I should have. So it was a little slightly oversalted, but I compensated by doing just like uh a couple stages of uh dilution and and just water. Um that's actually one of the questions I call I I've been calling you about, but uh so then uh, you know, tried it for a few days to build the pellicle and then just smoked it um for a couple hours with uh mesquite and it came out really awesome.
+
+[6:25] Um but the funny story is um when I had first cured it when I had disc when I had discovered that it was way too salty, I pretty much stunk out the whole house. Uh yeah uh people were pretty upset with me, but that was that was funny. It was still very good, but it was just really powerful and and um somewhat inconsumable, but I mean you could put it in stuff, but then I just did the dilution and that ended up working out. So actually my question is um is there some way to come up with like um a concentration such that you take care of you know the botulism, all the all the yeah, you know, all the bad things that come along with it without having to figure out the exact time, like basically leave it in there indefinitely uh without having to worry too much about you know it being under or over salted. Is there some sort of cross um basically a crossing between optimal flavor and um and handling all the the microbes that you don't want in there?
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+[7:30] Well sure. I mean you I mean the the things like botulism you're gonna take care of with uh nitrites. Did you add nitrites to it? Yes, I did. Yeah, okay.
+
+[7:38] So I mean like and the nitrite concentrations are small enough. You know, you don't have to use uh were you using what were using a prague powder or were you using like a salt with nitrites in it? I was using uh what's uh what's referred to as pink salt. So I think it was salt with all the nitrates in it. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
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+[7:55] So in other words, you don't need to add enough uh uh s like that stuff's not gonna radically increase the saltiness of your of your product because you're not gonna be adding that much relative to the quantity of what would normally be regular white salt to it, right? Okay. So the you know, it's the pink salt that's gonna take care of the the beasties that you're really worried about, like you know, the uh the ones that are that uh will grow perhaps if you were gonna cold smoke or hold it, right? So you're you know, so like th that's gonna take care of that stuff. And you said you added extra salt to the fish sauce, right?
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+[8:24] Yeah, it was an eight percent, so I brought it up to twelve and a half, which is I believe to be the uh the the basic uh brine for a bacon. Yeah, well I mean you can do various different brine concentrations. I'd have to look up exactly kind of what the the minimums are, but you're not holding it for a long time. You know what I mean? Right.
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+[8:41] Uh so is I mean if the nitrite levels are are high enough to inhibit things like botulism and to get a good pink cure, which I saw the picture, sucker's pink, right? Yeah, yeah. So I mean like that's gonna take care of of of a lot of a lot of those problems. Another thing, um you're saying that the it was unbearable the salt or the aroma. Have you tried did you try precooking the fish sauce a little bit to blast off some of the volatiles?
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+[9:03] Um well what I had done was I just Yeah so what I had done was I I took it's you know once it came out of the brine I just took it out immediately to cook it just to taste how how much salt penetration was in it. So I think I had some excess it was still pretty wet. Right. So that that's why a lot of you know it it was pretty stinky so no I mean did you did you cook the did you like boil the fish sauce a little bit before you used it as a brine. Oh no I didn't I I just did it straight.
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+[9:32] Right that might mellow it a little bit um in terms of how it smells after it comes out. Uh I have never done any side by sides but it's always been my mental perception when I that heated fish sauce tastes very different or smells very different from unheated fish sauce. But that could just be because once it fills up the kitchen and it's combining with the ingredients that it just smells totally different once it's combined. I don't know. But you know it's always been my feeling that like something's volatilizing off of the fish sauce that kind of rounds it out and makes it um less offensive to the people around who might not love fish sauce as much as we do.
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+[10:10] That's a fair point. Yeah I would consider that yeah I mean it might be it might be hard to love fish sauce as much as I do uh I mean you know and be you know from the east coast of America because that stuff is just straight up delicious. What brand of fish sauce did you use? Um I forget what brand it was but I I found a I found a brand that um didn't have any of the uh uh the fake hydrogenated vegetable proteins. Yeah, I I can I can follow you I can uh shoot you a picture of it.
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+[10:38] I forget exactly which brand it was. I think it was the one with the baby on the front. Oh yeah, I forgot the name of that one. I've done a I did once uh like years ago, like four years ago or something, I did a side by side of a lot of the ones that were available in kind of the local markets around uh lower Manhattan where I live. And uh I mean as anyone who knows listen to me I've there's a lot of Japanese fish sauce out there that I love and there's one that's not really available here that's made with uh ishiri and there's a bunch of different ishiri's uh and one of them is called uh one of them's from squid solely from squid guts and that sucker is amazing because it's extremely meaty and that's the one that I think tastes as close to uh Sally Granger who's the um she's the fish the Garam Roman fish sauce expert and she's done a lot of recreations of uh recipes in large tanks as part of her PhD thesis uh on fish sauce and she's done a lot of work with a peachist and she and her husband did a translation slash adaptation of a pecious for uh you know I don't know maybe seven eight years ago that is I think the best one that's available in terms of uh historical accuracy of cooking because it starts from the it starts from the uh the premise that uh they actually meant what they said when they were writing as opposed to some of the earlier like the Dover publication who's I forget who's the translator on that just you know kind of plays fast and loose with it's assuming that we moderns know better about cooking than they did back then when it's always better to assume that someone who's writing about something is writing about it well you know but uh anywho so I tasted her fish sauce uh a number of years ago that was uh the garum sociarum which was made from uh mackerel guts in her case and aged for I think two or three years.
+
+[12:12] And that was very close to this one Japanese ishiri and the difference between it and normal fish sauce is it had much more of a kind of canned meat, hammy, bacon-y flavor than um than your standard fish sauces. But of the standard fish sauces, I mean the ones that a lot of people like, like for instance, like the three crabs or whatever it is, is like super doped with uh with uh you know isolates, protein isolates. Um the one that my favorite uh is uh Tarose, which isn't the one with the baby on the front, but that of the commercially easy ones to get, I like that one. I believe Tarose is out of Thailand, but I'm not sure. I never know.
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+[12:49] You know, ever every every everyone from uh you know from that area of the world argues about who's got the best fish sauce, you know. That of course when are you gonna do? Uh yeah, so I wouldn't I mean like we I can look it up, but I wouldn't worry about like uh it being unsafe with having just the eight percent on a on a on a brine like that. Uh and then you know, then you'll get you know relatively more fish sauce flavor versus salt flavoring, which might be good. And try I would just do a side by side where you just uh uh boil a small sample of fish sauce and then taste it versus the raw just side by side after they cool to see what happens.
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+[13:23] Okay. Um just one more quick question. On the you know how I did that ice cream cone with the microwave cake? Yes, also on my tweet, in case you guys ever follow my tweets. Um so the um the one question I had was we were trying to just uh draw patterns on a plate or be able to build you know little structures to be able to put other dessert things next to it.
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+[13:46] Um and I was wondering if some sort of holly hydrocolloid or some sort of thickener that could add to it that would still allow the the uh the boxing effect of microwaving um but hold more structure. Is there uh is is there a lot of dairy in the cake? Um no, it's actually just um I think it ends up being half a stick of butter, four tablespoons of butter. Right. Um it's mostly uh it's mostly egg and then um uh egg white powder.
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+[14:15] If you prehydrate methylcellulose uh from the either A or S G series, a fairly viscous one, if you prehydrate that in water to a fairly high degree, so it's kind of pasty, and then fold that into the mix, that will um that will gelatinize after so what but you you need to pre-foam that, right? So you pre-foam that uh, and then if you have egg white or Xanthan or something in there that's holding the structure, um see the the issue with with these is with these things is is that with cakes, uh there is you need to have structure beforehand, right? And that's what holds the bubbles as they grow, and then you need to have structure uh you need to have structure afterwards, which is the starch that sets. So uh, you know, years and years ago I was working with uh Johnny Azzini, and one of the things we did for a uh demonstration we were working on was a no-protein um, you know, cake, uh like angel food cake style, but without that kind of bite of egg protein, and we worked it out with um methylcellulose, and we would foam with an ISI cancer, EC canister into molds. We would foam uh a cake batter mix that had as a portion of it hydrated methylcellulose.
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+[15:26] The issue, and it worked, because the methyl cellulose, it was already foamed, the methylcellulose would gel as it heated. It gelled, it held the structure in the same way that a protein will hold the structure in a cake, uh, and then uh after it was cooked, the starch took over. Problem is is that it has bad interactions with dairy. Uh, you know, like methylcellulose doesn't necessarily um react well or work well in uh high dairy applications. Okay.
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+[15:51] I'll give it a go and let you know how it works out. Cool. Thanks a lot. And there we go. Thanks so much.
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+[15:55] Alright, talk to you soon. We got a tweet pink salt for bacon? Yeah, you don't use pink salt for bacon? That was a question mark? That's a question mark, yeah.
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+[16:02] Yeah. No? I mean, is someone that like eat like I okay, look. If you go to if you go to what's it called, if you go, you know, pink salt, by the way, for those who don't know, is that what they do is is they mix there's two different kinds of pink salt. Ones that have uh nitrites in them, which are the ones that we normally use, and ones that have nitrates.
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+[16:20] You only want to use nitrates for uh long cured things like uh country hams and whatnot, because nitrates break down uh over time into nitrites. Uh and so in a short cured thing like bacon, you're only supposed to use nitrites. And uh nitrites, I mean let and look look, this is all the top of my head, so it could be that like a huge portion of my brain was erased somehow and that like my data is totally wrong, which someone please tweet and tell me. But uh, you know, the when people like for instance, let's say you go to Whole Foods and you buy what's called uncured bacon, they should put giant ass quotes around giant quotes, I mean, around that, because what happens is is they use uh foodstuffs like celery that are very, very high in nitrites, and then they just uh purify, I guess remove the flavor and gr you know greatly purify uh concentrate the amount of nitrites that are in the celery itself, right, such that that is strong enough to cure the uh bacon. Bacon that is actually uncured looks like roast pork, right?
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+[17:17] And tastes like salted roast pork, which is not bad. Any bacon, you know what I mean? And I'm pretty sure that they add the pink color to the salts just so that you don't accidentally use it as salt. And I'm virtually certain, I would say 99.99% certain that uh, and I always forget they're called pre uh prague powders or insecure powders. I never remember whether it's number one or number two.
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+[17:39] I just can't remember because I just I choose not to. They uh they color it uh pink. Now, if you get nitrites in the form of tender quick, Morton's tender quick, that is NACL, regular salt mixed with uh sodium nitrite in in a dosage that's meant to be used straight, and that sucker is not pink. So if you're using uh tender quick or what's called you know, that kind of a curing salt on a bacon, then uh which is you know it can be recommended because there's no possibility really of error with it. But uh anyway, so someone tweet on in and tell me that you know my brain was erased because there's always a good chance.
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+[18:13] Uh alrighty. Uh should we take a break? No, keep it. Keep going? All right, Stas says keep going, so I'll keep going.
+
+[18:19] Uh Christian Spinelo at Eat the Pig uh tweeted in. Listened uh to a back show where you talked about octopus and was curious if there is an anesthesia uh shtep. Anesthesia step. Why is that so hard? Is that a tongue you try it?
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+[18:35] Anesthesia step. Yeah, uh Stas is good at that stuff because yeah, anyway. Uh or equim step for the Piper, by the way. Pipe Get Piper drunk. Not difficult.
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+[18:44] Says that says that uh tongue twisters are like he he hates tongue twisters, he won't say it. The poor man's uh pun. But to me, they're unrelated. Yeah. Like to the tongue twister is unrelated to a pun.
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+[18:56] I don't like who the hell knows what he was talking about, right? He was in the car, so he wasn't drunk. Well, yeah, well, well, who knows? Love you, Piper. Uh I'm sure he's listening, and now I'm gonna have to put up with that all day.
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+[19:10] He's he's never never listens except for today, he's gonna listen just so that he can hear that and then give me give me crap for being the bad person that I am, right? Give you pink salt. Oh, wow. Okay. So uh that is a very interesting uh question, uh, Christian, and one that I can't believe that we haven't thought about before.
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+[19:29] And part of the issue is that uh I've never purchased a live uh octopus at a at a market. Have either either of you guys ever had that live tiny octopus on a chopstick. It's not really I don't really want it's not that I wouldn't eat it if someone handed it to me. It's just not in my thing. You know what I mean?
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+[19:44] But uh the reason why uh it's super interesting is that you know, as I've said, you know, many times, cephalopods, um, you know, octopus uh and some squid in particular, but really octopus, are kind of the geniuses of the invertebrate world. They're extremely smart, but they they're they're very bizarre in that they their brains don't function the same way ours do. They're not put together the same way. Now, their uh neuron the you know, the neuron transmission works the same way because you know, nerves had already developed by that time, and so they function in similar pathways, but their nervous system and their way of cognition, however you want to put it, right? And and I think that the you know, I think we're we're all past this uh idea that um animals are somehow just machines that can be uh, you know, that you know have no sort of uh inner inner inner life or workings at all.
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+[20:35] I think we're you know we're kind of past that as a as a society. Don't you think so? I mean, very few people think that anymore. Uh I think, you know, there's a bunch of hardcore uh scientists who kind of believe that, but it's it's almost the equivalent of solipsism on an individual basis to believe that we are the only animals that have some sort of inner life. It just doesn't really make any sense.
+
+[20:56] But you know, the question is, you know, does a clam really think about a lot? Is there an inner life to a clam? I don't think so. But the closely related octopus, I mean, it can do some pretty complicated and amazing things and can learn some pretty complicated and amazing things. So I think it would be a little disingenuous to think that uh an octopus doesn't have some sort of inner life going on, whether or not they're they're aware of their own existence or not, whether, you know, that that's unclear.
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+[21:20] But uh it is very interesting to think about what anesthesia and particularly what ikojime uh might do to them. Now, ikojime is is is a you know a set of Japanese fish killing techniques, but in the larger sense, you know, uh we're not referring to any particular traditional or even newer Japanese killing technique when we're talking about this subject. We're talking about the um purposeful quick killing of an animal, in this case fish, because ikajime means you know fish killing, uh, in a in a way that increases their quality. And typically, when you think about fish, and and d I don't want to get stuck into arguments of, you know, hey, what is the fish actually feeling? The question is, is do things that seem like less stressful ways of killing the animal, right, from just from an anthropomorphic thing, let's not to even talk about being rigorous, do things that seem like they would make sense to reduce the stress of slaughter, like anesthesia, like taking the brain out right away.
+
+[22:15] Uh muscle stress in a sense, like destroying the spinal cord so that uh there's no more impulses coming from the spinal cord to the muscles to uh use up the ATP to cause rigor, which is why you want to destroy the spinal cord in some strong swimming fish like bass and tuna. So the question is is things like that that makes sense from a human perspective as reducing stress, do they have an effect in the taste? Now uh you don't even have to think about what's going on in the inner mind of the fish because you have a much more uh verifiable result. Things that look like they cause less stress cause the uh animal to taste better when you eat it. So there is there is an effect.
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+[22:54] So it's like humane, whatever that means, killing techniques somehow align in this case, and hopefully in as many cases as we can see, align with uh best practices from a food preparation standpoint. Now, in an octopus, I came across a site looking for it here, uh W W Nietzsche Nietzsche Refresh dot co.jp. Uh and they do octopus and they say some interesting stuff. They say their octop their octopi, but they say octopuses when they uh when they uh translate it, are caught one at a time using pot traps. It's said that only strong, healthy octopuses enter the pot traps uh while the shallow waters are still abundantly full with prey.
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+[23:36] This enables us to capture strong, firm limbed octopuses of the highest quality. Unlike the trawling method, this harvest method does not disturb the harvesting waters, and it also prevents over harvesting, making making it much better for the environment and for resource conservation. That's really interesting, just on a loan on that standpoint, because the idea that that you want to catch a good strong octopus and they and they those are the ones that go into pot traps, it kind of makes sense because you know they like to hide, right? So I mean I don't really know what an octopus pot trap looks like, but they might go in there thinking they're hiding and they get trapped, right? Whereas it's a well-known fact that as soon as a male octopus uh donates its sperm or whatever you want to call it to the female octopus, that it goes like it's called senility, it goes insane senescence, it goes crazy and just starts wandering around on the bottom of the ocean floor so that it can get picked apart by whatever uh prey you want.
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+[24:24] So then you're getting kind of crappy, yeah. Or uh and on the flip side, as soon as the uh female lays its eggs, it stops eating and sits in the cave, like blowing water over the eggs to keep things from growing on it and guarding them against uh you know predators, and then as soon as the uh the babies hatch, she wanders out to get picked apart, eaten, and died in senescence. So you want a nice, good tasting octopus that hasn't gone into sedescence already, you gotta get one that still has its its self-preservation instincts intact. Um so uh Stas is looking something up she can talk about in a minute because I don't have time to look at the picture right now. Uh but she's gonna what do you got a picture of there?
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+[25:02] This is a picture of a Japanese octopus pot trap. Yeah. With a calm hack happy octopus. And it does look a lot like a cave that an octopus might go, and it makes sense. And it literally says calm, happy octopus.
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+[25:14] And the name of the trap is Taco Isubo. Yeah. Tako isubo. Anyway, so I thought that was really interesting. And then here's uh the other thing uh that they say is they say then that they practice Ikajime on it to kill it very quickly.
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+[25:26] Now there's uh there's an article there uh that's available in the September, it's available September 2013 in the Journal of Experimental Marine Biology and Ecology called The Identification and Management of Pain, Suffering and Distress Encephalopods, including anesthesia, analgesia, uh analgesia, and uh humane killing. Uh and it's by Paul uh Andrews et al. Uh, and yes, it's fairly recent article. Uh and it's extremely uh interesting. So they it if for those of you that are interested, and it is an interesting subject, and we don't have time to go into it now, but they go over uh all of the markers that human beings would look in if in a supposedly non-anthropomorphic way, although it doesn't make sense to think of it really in a non-anthropomorphic way, of how you would judge whether or not something is experiencing pain to the degree that uh that animal should be protected in a research environment.
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+[26:19] And then it goes on to figure uh to try and figure out uh whether or not we can prevent uh those sorts of pain. Uh and pain, remember, is different from nociception. This is getting complicated for a radio show, but nociception is the idea that there is a noxious stimulus and animals uh go away from it. So you take a cockroach and you put fire next to the cockroach, cockroach moves away from the fire. Are they experiencing pain?
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+[26:44] I don't know. Or are they just responding to the heat uh in the way that uh a sensor, you know, uh uh a smoke detector sensor responds to smoke, right? So a response to what human would consider a noxious stimulus is nosyception. Pain is a consciousness state that has to do with whether or not the animal understands that something is going on and feels some sort of distress uh relative to that. So they go through a bunch of arguments about what that would mean, uh, and then they go into what is now the important part for us, which is uh, well, what regulates that.
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+[27:16] So the two main uh two of the anesthetics that they use, one of which is clove oil, which is the one that we use when we're anesthetizing fish, and there's a lot of data on using clove oil uh and uh its derivatives, usinol and isousionol, to um to anesthetise fish, right? And I've done it many times. I've anesthetized lobsters, which are an entirely different set of you know, animals, crustacean with uh eusinol, and I believe that there is an observable difference, and therefore I don't have to worry about whether or not we're actually what's going on in the mind of a lobster because I feel that they taste different if they're anesthetized beforehand and if they're killed quickly. Um the question is does it work encephalopods? Uh answer, yes, it appears to work in cephalopods.
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+[27:57] Uh but here's the interesting part: Magnesium chloride, which is a widely available salt, you can get it at the Dwayne Reed. Remember we got the magnesium chloride at the drain weed. Magnesium chloride added to uh the water that um uh invertebrates like mollusks and clams are living in, um, causes them to lose their uh their their muscle, it's a muscle relaxant, right? And so if you add the right amount of magnesium chloride uh to the solution, and here I have the numbers, it's approximately 0.5% uh weight, magnesium chloride, and volume, along with 1% ethanol, it will cause their muscles to completely relax. Now, what you don't know here, right?
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+[28:34] What you can't know is whether or not that is actually shutting their brain down or whether it's just shutting down the ability of their muscles to work. But large amounts of magnesium chloride uh stop down, uh stop respiration and cause the animal to die. So a humane killing technique, uh ecogemic style, might be to put a small amount of clove oil along with a small amount of ethanol and magnesium chloride to slow their muscles down and to put them into a state of anesthesia, right? And then to add more magnesium chloride to stop their respiration, and then you know, do whatever cut your brain out. The other hum uh, you know, and here's the issue problem with octopi is that they don't have a central brain.
+
+[29:11] They have a large kind of brain near the eye, so there's midline dissection where you take out the entire eye area and get rid of the brain section. But they have a bunch of other quote unquote brain sections, uh, unlike us, right? But that's one of the humane things, or complete decapitation of the octopus, immediate decapitation octopus, another good ecogemia weight. But are the brains in other parts of the body, or it's all the head? No, I think it's like a separate, like most of the neurons in an octopus are in their tentacles, not most, but those I haven't done the research in a long time, but a huge amount of the of the neurons in the octopus are in in the tentacles because like the for instance, it's it's very complicated.
+
+[29:44] But the the point is that nobody really understands what it means to knock out the uh consciousness of an octopus because nobody understands what octopus consciousness is. And one of the fascinating things about researching cephalopods is that their entire method of perception of the world is different than ours. So that like proprioception, like how you know where your body is in space, works entirely differently in cephalopods than it does in mammals. And so it's kind of hard to evaluate uh what's going on. But it's an extremely interesting subject.
+
+[30:12] And anyone out there who has uh access to live octopi, I'd be curious to run some tests on taste. You know what I'm saying? Because that's the only thing I know I can test is how that sucker tastes on my how that smart, awesome thing tastes once it gets in my mouth. Anyway. Let's take a break.
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+[30:25] Oh, we'll take a break. Come back with cooking issues. Every August for the past ten years, Heritage Foods USA has had the great honor of announcing the arrival of a new generation of Good Shepherd Ranch Heritage Turkeys and a new chapter in the history of an endangered species. You have to eat them to save them. While many farmers now use the term, Frank Greese and his team raised the truest example of the original heritage turkey.
+
+[31:11] According to the USTA, they remain the only farm allowed to use the name Heritage on their label. We hope you reserve your healthy, naturally mating, flying, standard bronze, bourbon red, white holland, slate, black, or narragans of turkey today. Let's do it again and support the brightest hope for the turkey. We guarantee these are the best tasting turkeys ever, or your money back. Prices start at $75 dollars.
+
+[31:37] For more information, visit HeritageFoods USA.com. And welcome back to Cooking Issues. We've had some of those heritage turkeys. They were straight up delicious. I did I think I did a bionic turkey on Heritage Thing once.
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+[31:50] That was, I think, maybe the best one we ever did. We did a Bionic Heritage Turkey. Yeah. And Sucker was awesome. You know, the Bionic Turkey is where we rip out the skeleton, replace it with a skeleton an aluminum tube skeleton with holes cut in it so that we can pump heated oil through, cook it from the inside out so that it cooks quickly, and then flash fry it afterwards to get a crispy skin, which is delicious.
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+[32:09] Should we do that again this should we if we tell Jack uh if we tell uh rather Patrick that we're gonna do some sort of fancy thing, you think he'll hook us up, hook us up with a heritage turkey? Probably make that happen. Sweet. We don't we had a question come in too about um alternate proteins, like in the form of bugs, and if you think bugs will find their way on menus soon. Well, I mean, bugs have found their way on menus, you know, uh already.
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+[32:33] I mean, you know, everyone, you know, in you know, Mexico, you got those fried grasshoppers, which I just don't think taste good. That's the thing. I mean, they're crunchy, but a lot of things are crunchy. You know what I'm saying? You've had those, right, Stas?
+
+[32:43] I don't think so. And I don't like them. Then there's the ant eggs, uh, you know, Eskimole, which I haven't had, but I think those are extremely, you know, high priced. There's witchety grubs, uh, and you know, some grubs are apparently delicious tasting. I mean, there's no there's no reason not to eat them, you know, other than the the gross factor.
+
+[33:00] Um, and that they're fairly small, right? So, I don't know. I don't think there's any reason why they shouldn't. I mean, like obviously there's a grossness factor that a lot of people have to get over, but you know, then you know who uh was big into eating bugs is uh Dana Goodyear. Didn't she write about that in her new Eating Everything, eating Bugs?
+
+[33:18] And then the uh what's it called? The um what's it called? Natural History Museum had that big bite bug eating uh thing a couple of years back. You know who else? I bet you Paul Adams from Popular Science has eaten himself a lot of bugs.
+
+[33:29] But you see, bet you that guy's eaten himself a lot of bugs. Um we have this in on the Twitter. Uh Dan D at Eat the Fat. Uh at Cooking Issues, Trader Joe's in STL, which is St. Louis, we think, donate, right?
+
+[33:43] Yeah. St. Louis. Uh donates a lot of food to our local at campus kitchens. Maybe it's just an in-store decision.
+
+[33:51] Well, that's good to know that it's not Trader Joe's nationwide, and it just means hey, New York Trader Joes, step on up and give some food to bread and life. What? There's a lot of Trader Joe's here. I think there's three now. Yeah, but I'm sure they're probably all like run like low.
+
+[34:06] Hey, Jack, you want to say something nice about the bread and life friends of our station? All the good work they do. Well, yeah, they they work with Heritage Foods also. We give them a lot of hams, I believe, and then come Thanksgiving we work with them as well. They've also they were one of the sponsors at the Bushwick Block Party, so they're like always around here.
+
+[34:22] Also Anthony Butler's a great guy. I don't know if you met him. Yeah, no, yeah, I have. Uh I know some, you know, my wife's done some architecture work for them, and so has uh, you know, another couple of friends of mine. They they just happen to be really kind of good people, you know?
+
+[34:36] Yeah, exactly. Uh so you know Trader Joe's, just you know, give them the stuff that you're about to throw away. Why throw it away? Why have it go to waste? There's plenty of people, there's plenty of people here in New York that could use the food.
+
+[34:46] Am I right, Jack? Absolutely. Okay. Uh here's a question out to you guys. Tom Fisher, you asked us about the eggnog.
+
+[34:53] Did it work? Did it thicken? It's been like a week or two, right, since we answered that question. The eggnog should be thick now. Let us know.
+
+[34:59] Tweet on in. We need to do our own eggnogs, yeah. Oh, dang, yeah. Well, before Thanksgiving, we have to set our eggnog. Piper's gonna do something crazy with it, though, right?
+
+[35:06] He can't help it. No, let's do it. Correctly. So you and I are gonna do it. We won't tell them until afterwards.
+
+[35:11] Or you can do his own, geez. He does love the side by side. Uh another follow-up. Drew uh Drew Bushorn wrote in on Tempe. He had tweeted in and asked us about whether or not you could use microbial transglutaminase, which by the way, transglutaminase is what we call meat glue, and it's the enzyme that bonds proteins together.
+
+[35:29] It brought binds a um glutamine residue to which is an amino acid to a lysine residue uh in a covet res it's such a gross word. Why would I say residue when I'm talking about food? Residue. Glycine, I mean uh uh lysine residue. Anyway, uh the so anyway, so it bonds these things together and uh it comes from microbes.
+
+[35:48] It's called microbial transglutaminase, and it usually has uh various helper proteins. The question is, could you glue tempe together with it? And apparently the answer, and you could see it because he responded uh uh to the Twitter is yes, it does. Uh it glues it together, and he he says, um uh what did he say here? Thanks for putting together uh good program.
+
+[36:05] Long live the hammer. Fan of the hammer. Nice. There's gotta be one fan of the hammer. Oh I have a couple of things.
+
+[36:11] I know you do. Oh, come on, please. Everyone, everyone loves the hammer. Come on, please. Uh uh a few days back I tweeted Dave about using his favorite enzyme uh transglutaminase to make steam tempest solid enough to char uh to charburger style.
+
+[36:24] Since I know he's not a big veggie, but he might be amused by the results. I thought I'd report back. The upper half uh he shows the part that's not uh TG'd and it's just all broken apart. And the bottom, Patty, with a 1% by mass transglutaminase, which is a good number for something like that. Uh, it tasted pretty uh it worked well and tasted pretty good with lettuce and mayo.
+
+[36:40] Well, everything tastes good with lettuce and mayo, right? Lettuce and mayo tastes good. Man, add a good tomato, and you got let you got all you're almost all the way to a bacon, lettuce, and tomato sandwich. And in fact, even if you're a vegetarian, I hate to say this, because baking lettuce and bacon lettuce tomato, and we're talking with Mark Ladner about this over the weekend because we did a an event at uh at the Discovery Center at the uh Thanksgiving farm, which we could talk about later. Center for discussion.
+
+[37:01] Sand for discovery, yeah. Uh Discovery Center or something else. That's like a science museum or something. Sandford Discovery. Uh you know me.
+
+[37:07] Anyway, so the point is that like that's kind of one of the great sandwiches. Mark thinks that the reason it's such a great sandwich is you can have it at any time of day, and it's good, but and I'm getting like I'm gonna get a lot of flack about this, but it's not as good a sandwich, but almost as good as as good a sandwich as just with just to toasted crappy white bread, mayo, an excellent tomato and lettuce. Yeah. I mean, right? Subbing bacon for the mayo, is everything?
+
+[37:31] No, you need mayo no matter what, Jack. Don't try to make a BLT without mayo. Do you eat BLTs without mayo, Jack? Is this a problem we're gonna have? No, no, no.
+
+[37:39] All right. All right. Um you can feel me swooling into. Yeah, headphones have been down. Bad bones, like you know, like the gloves come off and the hockey, boom, on the ice.
+
+[37:52] Anyway, uh okay. Uh so that was it. Uh just a good follow-up, thanks. And we like to hear uh follow-ups like that, right? We enjoy that stuff.
+
+[37:59] Um, we had a question in last week, but we forget who it came in from, right? I think it was a caller, asking about gluten-free ramen. Uh, and they specifically they want to know whether or not uh you could add consui, which is the uh kind of alkaline salts that are used to firm up uh alkaline noodles, uh, of which ramen is one of those. So you add uh to flour, you add uh consway, it raises the pH, makes it more alkaline, and raising the pH strengthens the gluten in it and causes the noodles to have more bite, more snap, more elasticity makes them firmer, right? Which is one of the reasons why uh people do alkaline noodles.
+
+[38:32] The other one is there's a specific alkaline taste that you like if you're accustomed to that. Um and we're accustomed to that uh in certain things, it's a slightly different alkaline taste, but for instance, in pretzels have an alkaline taste to them because they're boiled in alkaline water before they're um or dipped in alkaline uh bath before debaked, which is why they have that awesome color and that specific pretzel taste. Um back to this. So the other thing uh that the alkaline stuff does in uh in wheat flour is it turns it yellow, which is why you have those kind of bright yellow alkaline noodles, right? Now, with ramen, uh I think most of the time ramen is made in an alkaline noodle semi-alkaline noodle process, not a high high uh level of alkaline noodles from the data that I could get from you know the the internet's on the actual industrial production of ramen.
+
+[39:18] So, but the the classic ramen production is you make the noodle, probably with alkaline, uh with uh out of wheat flour, sometimes with the addition of potato starch or other very fast hydrating starches to allow the rehydration to take uh place much faster in the cup when you add the boiling you know water to it when you're making the ramen. You know, I haven't made ramen in so many years from the from the boy from the bags. Have you ever when was the last time you had one of those things? Three years ago. Oh no, you mean like that?
+
+[39:45] Yeah, like like you know, like the one that you actually buy the package, you break it open with the little flavor pack. Oh yeah, I know. Twenty years. Twenty? Dang.
+
+[39:54] I used to eat the hell out of those. Those are good and cheap. Anyway, so uh what happens is you uh make the noodles, they are steam. Oh, this is kind of cool. They have a conveyor belt, and the conveyor belt runs at two different speeds, right?
+
+[40:05] So it the a faster running conveyor belt loads onto a slower running conveyor belt, and that's how they get the wave in it. Oh yeah, by by the differential conveyor belts fed onto, and then they get the wave in it. When it's on after it goes on the slower conveyor belt that causes the wave, it goes through a steam tunnel. The steam tunnel cooks the starch out, right? It then goes, uh it's then cut, sometimes folded it.
+
+[40:27] It well, then they put it on another conveyor belt that stretches it out a little bit to separate the noodles after they've done that. This is all pretty cool, right? And then uh that's after the steam thing, and then it goes, it gets cut and sometimes folded into the full block. If you're gonna put it into a block form for like in packaging and plastic, then goes into a fryer. It fries to dehydrate it.
+
+[40:46] It's a fast dehydration step. It also, as opposed to regular dehydration, opens the pores in the noodles because it's boiling the water out. And that's why ramen uh rehydrates so quickly because it's got all these open pour structures from the frying. And that's also why you can eat ramen without cooking it, and it's got kind of a good crunchy texture because it's slightly it's slightly it's more porous than dried pasta. That's why it tastes better raw, raw-ish uh than uh pasta.
+
+[41:13] It's then further dehydrated a little more and packaged. That's how the ramen works. So then uh the question is uh so clearly adding consui to uh gluten-free uh um ramen isn't going to add the functional benefits of texture that you would get in um in wheat flour. However, there is a a new article out, I think it's brand new. I think it's like not even out until 2014.
+
+[41:37] I think it's one of those ones that's in pre-press right now, uh, in the uh journal Food Chemistry called Quality Improvement of Rice Noodle Restructured with Rice Protein Isolate and Transglutaminase by Yang Kim et al. And it's specifically looking at increasing the toothiness of rice noodles using transglutaminase. Uh and they talk specifically, I think, about uh ramen and how ramen might work. Okay. Um and so it what's interesting if you look this uh paper up is they have photos of uh scanning electron micrograph uh microscopy photos of uh what you know just plain rice looks like as a noodle, and like everyone knows is ever just made a rice noodle, it's like a bunch of babies.
+
+[42:14] It doesn't hold together well. There's no structure, there's no protein network uh like there would be in something that has gluten, which is why when you're making uh gluten-free things with rice, what you do is you cook off some of the rice first and then f uh and then add that cooked rice back to your raw rice flour because otherwise it has no structure, right? So they have that, then they have that just with transglutaminase added, and it doesn't join do that much joining back together because uh rice is fairly low in proteins that can be bonded uh bound together by transglutaminase. What they did, and then they said that look, one way to get around this is to add soy proteins and all these other things, but these guys did a study where they added rice protein back to it and transglutaminase, and you can see it, and the one on the the one that it has the added rice protein added back to it as well as transglutaminase added to bind it together, looks a lot more like a traditional dough structure than that. So maybe that's a way to increase in a gluten-free application the toothomeness of uh of it.
+
+[43:13] And you could probably also, if you can't get rice protein, you could probably do a little bit of cooked rice, soy protein, unless you're against it, that's hydrated along with the rice with transglutaminase and get more of a firm uh kind of snappy texture out of it. But go take a look at that uh article uh because you know it seems fairly interesting. The one the issue, only issue I have is that uh, you know, as as I've said, there were arguments, and I haven't had the time to do the research to really suss it out about whether or not adding transglutaminase to things that contain uh trace amounts of gluten, whether it makes that uh whether it makes the gluten fraction more reactive or less reactive uh for people who suffer from celiac. Uh and I've heard kind of arguments on both sides. However, I will say that this article is specifically addressing the issue of uh celiac.
+
+[44:00] And so, you know, they they're looking to make a gluten-free rice-only uh product that has good eating qualities, and they are interested in the ramen issues. So it's uh something to look at, and you know, it's current right now. That's two transglutaminates questions. Cool. Oh yeah, right.
+
+[44:19] Um next, we have in from uh you think it's pronounced Philippe? I think so. Philippe. Philippe Lament. It's kind of awesome to have a last name Lament.
+
+[44:28] I think it's a good name altogether. Philippe Lament. I bet you like I bet you like super happy though. If you haven't if you have a name like Lament, you you can't you can't like you can't be melancholy. You know what I mean?
+
+[44:38] Because you know, well, at least if it was Piper, you'd be like, I'm not living up to my name. I won't I won't. Anyway. Uh hello, Nastasha, Dave, Jack, and Joe. It's Philippe Lament writing.
+
+[44:48] Love your show. I have a question about soft serve ice cream. Some of my good friends acquired a soft serve machine, amazingly, and I told them I'd be glad to make a ton of ice cream base for them for a party. Now I know how to make ice cream that is churned regularly, but soft serve is different, more overrun, right? What do I do to make a baller soft serve base?
+
+[45:05] Okay, this is a great question. Um here's the deal. So I once uh was the uh proud owner of a soft serve ice cream machine. Also, kind of strangely. I was walking down the street one day.
+
+[45:18] This is you know, uh, fifth 15, 12, 15 years ago. I was walking down the street uh in uh the Garment district where I used to live, and just literally someone had thrown out on the side of the street a giant, like uh, you know, two flavors and a twist, Taylor soft serve ice cream machine on wheels. And I was like, look, someone threw out an ice cream machine, and my wife's like, so what? I'm like, so what? It's coming back to our house.
+
+[45:42] And it weighs like, because you know, yeah, whatever. So, but the sucker weighs 900 pounds, and it's on these crappy little casters. I know it weighs 900 pounds because I looked up the cut sheet later on the sucker. And so anyway, it was on this, you know, those crappy little casters that machines are on that aren't really meant to. And if you've been to the garment district, the the only roads that are worse are the ones in lower Manhattan down where we are now.
+
+[46:01] But like the garment district has these like all bent, all the roads are messed up from heavy trucks ears just rolling over them all the time, right? So I'm rolling this thing back a couple blocks of my uh, you know, my loft where I lived at the time, and we roll it in, and you know, I spend the next day and a half blowing all the roaches out of it and like you know, completely nuking it such that there was nothing left alive in it, you know, making sure that I wasn't bringing a family of rats with me or anything like this. Disassemble the machine, put it back together. Unfortunately, the uh unfortunately the one of the compressors was shot. In fact, two of the compressors were shot.
+
+[46:35] So instead of two flavors and a twist, I had kind of one flavor where the cylinder compressor worked, and the actual refrigeration compressor that uh uh thing that keeps the base going didn't work at all. So I had to like pack that with ice uh to get it to work. And this was the first time I'd ever made a huge quantity of ice cream base. Uh and so what I'll say is this when you're making and this applies to anything, if you have low temperature, you're gonna want to go ahead and because you're gonna make gallons. If you have an ice soft serve ice cream machine, like uh I remember I was like, crap, I can't even fire this sucker up reasonably unless I'm making like four gallons.
+
+[47:09] So I tried to make a four gallon or five gallon batch of ice cream base in my turkey frying pot, right? Now, if you've never done this before, it is very difficult to get an even temp and stupidly, because I'm a jerk, I tried to make uh I tried to make the whole batch at once just by whisking really hard. And the bottom of it, obviously, I got a little overheated. I didn't move it fast, and so all of a sudden I see bloop, I see all of these, I see that the coagulated overcooked egg float to the top. I'm like, no.
+
+[47:40] So I tried filtering it out, right? Also, if you've met me, you know that I was very late and like I needed the ice cream on the table, right? Because I had it was family dinner, I needed to have this stuff out. You know, Stasza's shaking her head because she knows how I am. So I was like, oh no.
+
+[47:52] I didn't have the time to cool it down just by putting it in the in the case. So, first of all, I filtered it out. Sucker tastes like scrambled eggs. This is way prior to Heston Blumenthal making scrambled egg ice cream famous. I could have been like, well, I'm just doing Heston Blumenthal's recipe.
+
+[48:03] I'm just I'm just trying out this. Yeah, look, what do you mean? I meant to do this. This is what Heston does all the time. You know, listen, if you're not looking for scrambled egg ice cream, scrambled ice egg ice cream, no good.
+
+[48:13] And I haven't had Heston's, I'm sure it's delicious. I don't want to talk about that. So, anyway, I needed to cool this base down super quick, right? That I had made, and I had messed up part of it by curdling part of it. It was at the last minute, too.
+
+[48:23] It's always at the last minute that you ruined the base, which is why it's so horrible. I thankfully hadn't burnt it because that would be the real joker move, whatever. So it's all strained out, and I have it in the in a bus tub because I had lost the original thing in the bottom of the soft serve machine, and I threw dry ice into it to try and cool it down faster. And of course, it tasted lightly carbonated when it came out of the soft serve because the soft serve hadn't frozen out all the water in it. And so I had this kind of carbonated scrambled egg ice cream.
+
+[48:47] It was the worst ice cream I've ever made in my entire life. I then threw an ice cream uh party afterwards, and quite smartly at the time, although it's a cop-out, and we'll talk about ways not to cop out. Uh, I drove up to the Bronx to the Mr. Softy uh warehouse where the actual trucks for Mr. Softy go, and I said, Look it.
+
+[49:09] I'm not look, I'm not trying to horn in on Mr. Softy's business. I have this ice cream machine, my wife's gonna make me throw it away in about a week and a half. I'm gonna have a big party. I'll pay whatever you want.
+
+[49:14] Just let me buy like five gallons of Mr. Softy mix. And they did. They let me buy it wasn't that much. I mean the guy was not used to it to like a normal non-Mr.
+
+[49:28] Softy guy showing up at the window where the Mr. Softy trucks show up to buy their stuff and like kind of making this plea. And I and I guess uh he obviously looked at me and was like, this person does is not a professional person in any sort of way. And so he sold me the stuff. Party was insane.
+
+[49:42] Party was nuts. We went through so much soft serve ice cream on that. But that said, um, I'm sure you want to make it the right way. The first thing to do, if you've never made huge batches before, is make them in smaller batches so that you don't do the stupid stuff that I've did. Uh second, if you have an immersion circulator, I would just make it an immersion circulator in um kind of two liter two liters at a time and just build it up two, three to four liters at a time in bags and build up that way because you're much less likely to uh have a problem.
+
+[50:08] It'll take you a little bit longer, but it's easier to chill and easier to keep um keep done. That said, if you want to know about uh the actual formulation of soft serve, the problem overrun in a soft serve ice cream machine isn't achieved the same way that you achieve overrun in regular ice cream with the with the churning thing. The way that soft serve literally injects air into the freezing cylinder at the same time that it injects the mixture in. So you change the overrun uh based on the orifice. If you look in the soft serve machine, uh there is a pump.
+
+[50:36] The pump uh draws the base out of the of the at least the one I had, out of the bottom of the unit and injects it into the chamber through what what looks like you know a a MIG welding tip, a little orifice, and you change that orifice size to change the overrun. And so unscrupulous people who are making soft serve, what they'll do is they'll put an orifice in there that increases the overrun to like a hundred percent or more, so that you're getting more than you know, as more air than you are ice cream based in the finished product. Uh you know, conversely, you can do a s like a super premium one by reducing the overrun by changing the orifice in it, which is what companies like Carvel do. So Carvel, you know, used to, and you know, it's not super premium anymore by you know modern standards, but you know, back in the 70s, they had a very low overrun ice cream that was still soft served. That's why Carvel cakes, once they're hardened, they're dense as hell, because it's actually a very dense ice cream, which is why I like Carvel.
+
+[51:28] Uh and I, you know, whatever their flavoring is, I got you, you know, I learned to love it when I was a kid, so I have no idea whether it's actually good or not. Um right? You but you didn't grow up with Carvel. Do you like it? Uh it's okay.
+
+[51:39] Yeah, but you didn't grow up with it. So it's yeah, I mean it's like it's like black and white cookies. If you didn't grow up with a black and white cookie, you don't love a black and white cookie. Jack, you grew up with black and white. So we had this conversation last week.
+
+[51:46] Yeah. Yeah, black and white. Yeah. Okay. So anyw, uh, so the point is the overrun is controlled by the uh the overrun is controlled by the orifice.
+
+[51:56] So you can go buy a new orifice and they're fairly inexpensive. So whatever make you have, you can easily go by the orifice to produce the overrun you want. The trick with uh soft serve machines is is that you have to adjust uh you have to remember that they're gonna be served warmer than a hard slightly warmer than a hard ice cream. So sugar levels need to be a little bit different. And what you need to guard against is over whipping because this thing sits there churning the entire time, even when you're not drawing.
+
+[52:21] Uh at least I believe that they always churn even when they're not drawing. So there's the issue that something might be in the cylinder much longer than it would be in a normal machine, and so you need to add uh emulsifiers to it to prevent over whipping in the cylinder as it goes. Uh now, a good place to go for this kind of information if you just Google uh soft serve guelf, which is where the university is that does a lot of the good dairy science stuff that's available on the web and Goff, G-U-E-L-P-H, which is where the professor's name, there's a huge PDF that you can look at on the uh on the internet that deals very specifically with all of the different um all the different things that go into soft serve, including um the fact that you want a higher uh milk fat uh milk fats um you know uh milk sorry non-milk fat solids, milk fat's non-solid, that's what it is, in uh in ice cream um because you're not gonna have lactose crystallization problems over time and it increases the body of it. They talk about the fat content uh and they actually give some proportions uh that you might want to use, and then you're gonna go out and get some good emulsifiers. I mean I'm sure egg yolks are good enough to emulsify them to prevent the overturning.
+
+[53:28] Uh and they talk about fat contents and everything. So just go on to that, and they actually talk about um uh changing the wetness or dryness perception of the ice cream based on whether you add certain salts, and this is something I never thought about before that I'm gonna do more research for the next time we do ice cream work, uh adding sodium citrate uh or different calcium to either make it wetter or drier the ice cream. I had no idea, so that's something to look into. You gotta love guelf. You gotta love guelf.
+
+[53:51] Uh all right, so that's it. And uh shout out to John Riper who says uh Stas, sorry to hear the apples didn't arrive in the best of shape, but glad you could still go to uh tasting with them. Hey John, the chocolates are delicious. He sent us chocolates. Uh well, you see, and I you know, like and then I was told that I was throwing John under the bus saying that you know that they didn't get it's not that they didn't come in the best of shape.
+
+[54:11] I see you know you want to know exactly what our tasting stuff is, and I I for one, really appreciated it, and I thank you, John. Cooking issues, thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org.
+
+[54:53] Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Underground Meats, an American producer of handcrafted salami and cured meats in Madison, Wisconsin. For more information, visit shop.undergroundfoodcollective.org or stop by their butcher shop in Madison, Wisconsin. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick, Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Cooking issues!
+
+[1:04] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from Alberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from roughly 12 to 1245 here as usual with the hammer. How you doing? Good. And Jack in the booth, how you doing?
+
+[1:19] Hey. It's just it's just the it's the old school crew today. It's just uh the Stars and the Jack and the and the me. Nice, right? Stas likes it that way.
+
+[1:27] No offense to Joe. She just feels like she likes a like old school. Now you're now, Stas, you have a problem with Joe. Oh man. Yeah.
+
+[1:36] And uh started it. And uh uh interesting, we brought back the uh song by uh Joel Gargano because Joel has a question in today. Uh sensed it. You sensed it, you felt it. Did Stas.
+
+[1:48] Did Stars tip you off? No, she didn't. Really? Alright. Uh well before I go in, uh call in your questions to 718 497 2128.
+
+[1:55] That's 718-497-2128. Jack has some good news. Jack, uh, you have good news? Oh, right, yeah. Good news.
+
+[2:02] Um, I'm see I wouldn't share this kind of personal information on the show, but Nastasia is so happy that I'm leaving Brooklyn. I'm moving to New York City. Woo! Now, uh I I like well here's here's the thing that might interest. It will only actually interest people who are from New York.
+
+[2:18] Those uh other people just you know bear with us for a second. But so uh a quirk of New Yorkers is that it when you live in when you live outside of New York City and you ask someone from Brooklyn, you know, are you from New York City? They'll say yes. But when you're inside the city, the city is really just Manhattan. Stas back me up on this, right?
+
+[2:37] Yeah. And so even Jack, long time Brooklyn pusher, you know, not in the you know, not in that sense, but you know, like a booster. That's what I meant. Book Brooklyn booster, moving to Manhattan now admits he's moving to the city. Yeah.
+
+[2:51] Yeah? Yeah. Yeah. So what's the reason, Jack? Um, an opportunity has come up.
+
+[2:58] Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. So you're no longer gonna live in uh Bushwick? I mean, you know, I'll be here a lot, but my home will be the city.
+
+[3:07] That was my first home anyway when I moved to the city and went to NYU. So nice. Well, welcome back. Welcome back to our side of the river, Jack. This is stuff that only makes sense to like to uh to New Yorkers, though, right, Stas?
+
+[3:19] People, you know, you know what it pisses people off who don't uh you don't live in New York when uh you go to their city and then they say uh, you know, when when are you going back? You're going I'm going back to the city, and then you give the date that you're going back to New York, and you're like, what do you mean, the city? Like it's a city. Like, like I also live in a city, and you're like, no, no, no. I'm in LA now, I'm going back to the city next week.
+
+[3:40] You know what I mean? People hate that. Right? Yeah, yeah. My wife used to hate that.
+
+[3:45] In fact, she mentioned that to me uh when we were going out like 20 years ago. I'm like, what are you talking about? Uh and turns out it's true. I've paid attention. People do get upset.
+
+[3:53] Anyway, uh back to uh Joel's question. Hey crew. First off, I finally met Harold McGee at the Harvard uh lecture in September that you guys did. I didn't see him there. Did you see him?
+
+[4:03] No, I didn't. Maybe he was there for a separate lecture. Uh I think I creeped him out. Remember, I was that guy you read to live on the air. This is what Joel said to McGee.
+
+[4:11] Like imagine McGee standing there and Joel walking up and be like, hey, remember when you read that stuff on the air? And he's like, uh he's like, uh, oh yeah, and I wrote that song about you too. Uh I did get a sweet picture with Harold, uh though, after you smoked out the lecturer. No, so I guess it was the one we were at. Yeah.
+
+[4:25] I didn't see him. Anyway. Uh I'm sure I'm sure like McGee always just stands there and listens. Like, he probably didn't like wasn't creeped out. Carroll doesn't get creeped out by that kind of stuff.
+
+[4:33] No. No. Carol has a strong whatever it's called. All right. Uh, here are the questions.
+
+[4:39] Uh, how is vinegar powder made? And if I were to make my own, what would be the best approach without the flavor becoming muted by ridiculous amounts of endsorbit? Uh, is a tray of vinegar and a dehydrator the answer? Uh okay. So I'll I'll hit that one first.
+
+[4:51] Uh because it's two questions. No, no. The way vinegar powder is commercially made is uh through uh spray drying. So in spray drying, what you would do is you would mix see the problem with vinegar is vinegar is one of the very few uh you know acids that we eat that is volatile. That's why you can smell it so much.
+
+[5:07] Uh, you know, when you put your head over a thing of vinegar, it smells like vinegar, whereas you you know, put your head over a thing of lime juice and you're like, smells like lime juice, but it doesn't smell like acid, you know what I mean? Uh, and when you boil vinegar, you get that like aroma above it, you're like, whoa, you know what I'm talking about, but you don't get it with something like lime or lemon or or anything like that. Uh it's because those acids um, you know, boil at a high enough temperature that they're fundamentally non-volatile, whereas acetic acid isn't. So uh anyway, so you spray dry acetic acid uh vinegar by mixing it with uh a carrier, usually maltextrin, and then uh spraying it into a chamber very, you know, very the the higher the better at a high temperature, and as it goes down, the mist goes down in the chamber, it dries out and turns into a powder. Remember, we saw we went to David Michael, the the flavor house, and we saw their spray dryer units.
+
+[5:54] Pretty cool. Anyway, so that's how they make the the powdered vinegar. Now, powdered vinegar, and you can go on you know, modernist pantry or Lessincture anywhere, Terra Spice, uh Calustians if you're here in the city, and buy uh various different flavors of vinegar powder. Um the problem is that uh, like I say, vinegar itself is non-volatile. I mean, sorry, pfft, exact opposite.
+
+[6:14] Vinegar is volatile, so the acetic acid is so you have to uh it's not very acidic, so you need to then dope the vinegar the vinegar powder will have the flavor of whatever vinegar was there, uh uh malt, vinegar or you know anything like that, but it's not actually very tart. So you'll need to augment it with uh another acid to really get the tartness of the vinegar back. Now, uh I think you could probably freeze dry vinegar as well. And I don't know whether the acidity is maintained through the freeze-drying process because I don't know the uh I don't know how acetic acid works with sublimation and freeze drying is a sublimation procedure. Um the other thing, and I looked up and people have done it, is you can uh mix um you can make a sauce with vinegar in it and then dehydrate the entire sauce, right?
+
+[7:01] Because then there's enough structure of other stuff in the sauce that you can dehydrate. And I saw on the internets that somebody did that with like their their favorite buffalo wing sauce. They they poured the buffalo wing sauce in the dehydrator, dehydrator for two days and then powdered it. Uh I mean, I've never done it, but but you could do that. But don't use endsorbit.
+
+[7:17] Remember, Nsorbit uh is going to be an expensive carrier to use for uh this kind of thing. Ensorbit is a particular type of tapioca maltodextrin that is um made specifically to have very, very uh very low density, and it's used as a bulking agent, and it also is used to make powdered oils. And the reason it works is because the starch helix, right? The inside of the starch helix is relatively hydrophobic, and so fats and oils can go inside of that helix without gumming up the outside of it so that it remains bulky and powdery, but uh the oil is somehow stored on the inside. As soon as you add water, it breaks down and turns to, you know, it turns, you know, it debulks and turns uh like into nothing, which is how the ensorbit powdered oil trick works.
+
+[8:09] So you can't you can't do it with uh enzorbit, or at least it's not uh, you know, you get a cheaper form of maltodextrin to use as a bulking agent if you're gonna do the dehydration on it. But anyway, I hope that helps. Uh second question uh Joel had was um uh it's always been the kitchen rule to let Cambrosa's stocks cool with the lid off. The school of thought on this is twofold. It will cool faster because there's less insulation, and also the condensation built up on the lid uh if left on could promote bacterial growth.
+
+[8:37] I hate cooling stocks with no lids because it increases the potential for items to be dropped in them during the cooling process. Not a question about cooling techniques, but I want to know if there's any danger in slapping a lid on hot stock and cooling it in an ice bath, the room temp, and then putting it in the walk-in. Well, okay, I mean, look, it is there any danger. So if the product is way above the temperature that uh of bacteria, right, and the I don't think you're gonna have a problem with the lid. I'm in in terms of uh bacterial contamination.
+
+[9:07] If you slapped it on it when it was really hot and you know the the vapors coming up would be hot, it would hit it and everything would be okay and you know uh presumably that's not the real problem. The real problem is that it takes forever and a day to cool uh to cool stock uh with a lid on because um eva a huge amount of heat is lost through evaporative cooling. Uh so you know uh if you were to put a lid on on top of uh stock when it's cooling, uh it would super drastically increase the amount of time it takes the stock to get down to room temperature. Because um, you know, the the I mean is evaporative cooling is such a large percentage of of how how the stuff gets away. When you think about it, uh like radiation very low and conduction to the air very low in terms of uh uh way ways to get rid of heat.
+
+[9:58] Conduction even to ice water through a cambro is not super great because the cambro is not so great at heat transfer, right? Um, you know, a metal, a metal container uh in ice is good. Um, but that as long as there's hot vapor coming off, you're you know, very drastically cooling is setting up a temperature gradient, setting up convection so long as the stock is a thin thing and really increasing the rate at which it cools. So I really think it's all about uh rate of cooling there. Now, if you could guarantee a rate of cooling that's fast enough, then a totally sealed system would be fine, I would guess.
+
+[10:31] Yeah? Mm-hmm. Yeah. Oh, just as a note, uh, it really is the evaporative cooling. Uh I poured Piper and I ran some tests today.
+
+[10:38] We did uh a quart container of product, which is not the same as Camber, it's much smaller. We did a quart container of of water with and without a lid, drastically different cooling rates. And then also I poured uh like a teaspoon uh or a little bit of oil on top of of another a third one, and it's the same as putting a lid on it, drastically damp the uh rate because you can't get evaporation off the off the top if there's oil on top. I wonder whether that's why the guys in uh so you know in um you know in Tibet they put uh like uh melted yak butter on top of tea? Yeah, yeah.
+
+[11:09] Uh I wonder so a lot of it is because I was speaking to this uh guy, I think I mentioned this in it in the show previously, is that I had a little like an actual Sherpa as uh a driver, like his last name was Sherpa, and he was from uh Nepal. I think I talked about it, yeah. But and he was saying that uh the interesting thing about the food there is that if it doesn't have a lot of fat in it, people are like, what's wrong with you? I need uh the fat to survive, you know what I mean, because they need to burn a lot of calories, I guess, when they're up that high. But uh I wonder whether also you get a like wicked evaporative cooling up there because of the low pressures, and I'm wondering whether or not the butter is an insulation effect as well to keep the tea hotter longer.
+
+[11:43] Yeah, you're like, I don't care. I'm talking to your brother-in-law, so yeah, you're talking to my brother-in-law? Yeah. Right now, while we're doing the radio show. Uh got this in, a note from uh John Riper, friend of the show.
+
+[11:56] Uh Nastasha, another great show last week. Dave's quick riff on BLTs reminding me of an easy way to make them better. Uh hey, listen, John, don't get me started. BLT, you can make one different. I don't know if you're gonna make it better.
+
+[12:07] This is that's a tough way to open it. Yeah. I mean, look, in other words, like you can make a different sandwich. It's like here's what I have to say. Like, like, you know, you make a lot of bitters, like for cocktails, and it's like I can make a different, I can make a bitters that I like a lot, but I'm not gonna make a better angostura because how can you be better at being Angostura than Angostura is?
+
+[12:26] You know what I'm saying? Waiting to see what he's got. Yeah, okay, here we go. Uh junk white bread is of course the way to go. Yeah.
+
+[12:35] Uh back in the days when it helped to build strong bodies 12 ways, we'd take that's what they used to say uh about the junk white bread. We take uh wonder bread, I guess, right? Uh we'd take two pieces, slather on is wonder bread back yet, by the way. Twinkies are back. Yeah, it's back.
+
+[12:48] Really? And we did a little news piece on it. So thank God. The deal is So you like Wonder Bread then? That's not that I like it.
+
+[12:56] It has no, it has nothing to do with whether you like it or not. It's wonder bread. It like it needs to exist. You know what I'm saying? Like when a French person comes to the United States and you wanna and you want to like show them like what it meant to be a kid growing up, you get Welch's grape jelly, peanut butter of your choice.
+
+[13:14] Mine would be probably Skiffy, Skippy, because although my mom was quite cheesy, she did not choose JIF. Chunky though, right? Really? I like either. But it's an interesting choice.
+
+[13:22] You're only a chunky man. I'm only chunky. See, here's my feeling. Like, I like chunky, but I think if you want to go full American on someone, you gotta give them, I think you gotta start with the the creamy and move into the chunky. All right.
+
+[13:33] I don't know, I don't know. And it has to be Welch's grape jelly. Yeah. Right? And so you you get the Wonder Bread, the Welch's grape jelly, and the peanut butter, and then you hand it to them, and it and what you have to say is, and you gotta remember, French people don't like concord grapes, and they don't like peanut butter.
+
+[13:50] They're they're freaks about it. They don't like either one of those things. And they like good bread. And they love good bread, they hate wonder bread. And so uh, and so you hand them the the the the the this the sandwich, right?
+
+[14:00] Which is like that's like how many of those did you pound when you're growing up? Oh, too many. Stas, how about you? A lot. A lot, yeah.
+
+[14:06] Like, and you can't like kids these days, that's not America anymore because a lot of the schools you can't bring peanut butter to anymore. But uh that was that's the sandwich, and and you hand it to them, and what you say to them is, hey look, I don't expect you to like this, but if you don't if you can't wrap your mind around this sandwich, then you can't wrap your mind around America, period. And then you just walk away. You know what I mean? And then they eat it and they're like, this is deadable.
+
+[14:27] That's not a French accent. That's not even French. Zisi is uh Zizi is a horrible. There you go. That's a little better.
+
+[14:33] Okay. Uh so anyway. So back to uh back to back back to John. Okay. So back in the days when it helped build uh strong bodies 12 ways, we take two pieces of bread, wonder, slather on some mayo and a couple of tomato slices, add bacon, and then instead of lettuce, you see here's a instead of lettuce, we cook a sunny side up egg in the rendered bacon fat and slide it onto the bacon and tomatoes.
+
+[14:53] When you want a sandwich that's greater than the sum of the part uh of its parts, this is it. Now, I agree that that might be a good sandwich, maybe even a great sandwich. I don't know that it's gonna be, you know, I think it's just a different sandwich. Jack, what do you think? Yeah, it's that's much better.
+
+[15:07] That's much more like a bacon, egg and cheese variation. Whoa, like bacon egg. I like the words bacon, egg and cheese are like some of the greatest words in the world. Bacon, egg, and cheese. So it's like a bacon, egg, and cheese with with tomato.
+
+[15:18] On wonder bread. On wonder bread. Do you like uh speaking of wonder bread? Do you like a grilled cheese sandwich with a tomato on it? Yeah, actually, that's that's always what I get.
+
+[15:25] Yeah? I do, yeah. I like a tomato. Stas probably hates that. Yeah, I don't like it so much.
+
+[15:29] Really? Because why? Because it's wet? I just don't like it. But I mean, is it the wetness?
+
+[15:34] Like, I'm trying to analyze. I don't like the taste of a tomato on grilled cheese. Even like a dried tomato? Right. Don't like it.
+
+[15:40] Alright. All right. Uh Tom Fisher writes in, dear Dave, Nastasha, Jack, and Joe. Sorry for not updating you last week on the eggnog. Uh, you know, they so we had a question a couple weeks ago about a traditional eggnog that's made and then let to sit for you know several weeks.
+
+[15:55] We gotta make that soon, Stuz. I know. Yeah, Piper made that weird tiki one. That's terrible. Pipe yeah, I love Piper who works with us, you know.
+
+[16:03] But uh he puts freaking tiki bitters and everything and he wants to tiki fy everything. He made this eggnog, and he's like, This is really good, right? And Stas and I are both like, no, it's garbage. It's garbage, right? Yeah.
+
+[16:15] It's garbage. What do you what do you remember what was in it? Uh no. And you know, look. Oh, it's her terrible.
+
+[16:22] Oh, it looked terrible. Oh my gosh, so bad. Piper's come up with some really good ideas recently, though. Like Piper did a, I think I don't know if we talked about it. We did it at the uh event we did at the uh Center for Discovery.
+
+[16:33] Sour cream simple syrup, right? Which is like it's that's Piper's like genius invention of the of the recently. Concord grape and vodka. That's that's a good drink. It's good.
+
+[16:45] We're gonna make that one for uh with uh absolute for Purno Ricardo in a couple of days. That's a good drink. It's a good drink. But the the tiki eggnog, not so much. Although interestingly, I did enlist Piper's help to answer this question.
+
+[16:56] So let's let's get to it. As you recall, I made a large batch of aged, aged eggnog, but was concerned as it appeared to be very thin about the consistency of whole milk. The recipe calls for it to be aged for a minimum of 21 days. Now, on day 12, the eggnog is thickened slightly to the consistency of heavy cream. I'll check in again next week to let you know how it's going.
+
+[17:14] But just for the sake of discussion, if it did not thicken on its own, what would I do thanks Tom Fisher? Uh okay. So uh so I I talked to Piper, as you may know, Piper who works with us and who makes terrible tiki flavored eggnog. Uh I worked for CP Kelco, uh, which is the Carrageenan masters for a while. And so um, and right off the bat, you're gonna wanna you you know that that carrageen is gonna be the way to go to really fix uh a milk system up very well because carrageenin has synergistic effects with milk, so you you don't have to use very much of it.
+
+[17:46] Now there are so I wouldn't use things like Xanthan, even though Xanthan's really easy, it's gonna snot it up real quick. And eggnog's already got textural issues for me. And if you want something creamy and smooth, you don't want any of the you don't want any kind of snot rocket feel to it, right? Stasmos not rocket, hate the snot rocket. So uh you're gonna want uh carragen.
+
+[18:06] Now there's three different fundamental, well, there's more, but like the three carrageenions you're most likely to come in contact with are kappa carragenin, iota carragenin, and lambda caraghenin. Uh and actually in cooking, you're most often just gonna come up with kappa and iota. Kappa makes hard uh brittle gels. You're not gonna want that in this. Iota makes kind of softer gels and is used in things like yogurts uh to get because it also re the gel resets.
+
+[18:31] Now you're not looking to gel, you're looking to thicken. And the prime thickening carrageenan, the one that's used in chocolate milk, for instance, lambda carrageenin, or maybe small amounts, small, small, small amounts of iota, tiny amounts of iota. Uh now, Piper told me about the stuff that he used to use uh when he was working for CP Coco, and he stole I maybe bought some, I don't know, stole some. It's called Genuvisco. They have such crappy names, right?
+
+[18:56] Who wants to put something called Genu Visco into into the into their product? Anyway, Genuvisco CSM2, C like cold, S like soluble, M like milk. So it's cold soluble in milk, so it doesn't need to be heated. And the good news there is you can add it after you've made your product because it does need to be heated. So Genu Visco CSM2, and you're gonna want to use that in the ratio of between 0.1 uh and 0.25%.
+
+[19:24] So anywhere between uh one gram per liter and uh 2.5 grams per liter. And now the problem is that uh CP Coco has set up a um a thing with Le Sanctuaire in California. So Le Sanctuaire is a distributor of CP Celco products. Uh Piper checked, and uh they don't have the Genu Visco CSM2 on their website. Maybe they can get it for you.
+
+[19:47] The closest thing that they have is Genu Visco J D S, which you use even lower quantities, point zero.02, so two tenths of a gram per liter. And the problem with that, aside from the usage, is it's mainly iota, and I think you might have I don't think that's cold soluble in milk. So you can probably call CP Coco and get them to send you some as a sample or pester La Sanctuare, and maybe they'll get it for you, but that's how I would uh go. Uh, should we take our first commercial break? We'll come right back after this commercial break with cooking issues.
+
+[20:54] They use small farms from southwest Wisconsin to source their meat. The animals are raised on pasture for their entire lives by farmers who care about animal welfare. While Underground Meats uses European traditions, they also use ingredients from the upper Midwest to try to create new types of salamis, experimenting with both ingredients and techniques. The salamis are made using heritage breeds, mostly red wattles, tamworts, Berkshires, and Mule Foots. Try their award-winning cured pork shoulder and goat salami.
+
+[21:23] To learn more and purchase products, visit shop.undergroundfoodcollective.org. Or stop by their butcher shop in Madison, Wisconsin. And we're back. Call your questions to 7184972128. That's 7184972128.
+
+[21:40] Speaking of underground meats, had a question in uh from uh Brandon uh Hodkins saying, Hello, hammer and the nails. So I'm the nails, I guess. Yeah. Near the hammer. That means you're gonna hit me over the head.
+
+[21:51] Like you don't already. We had a caller quick if you want to grab that first. Oh yeah? Alright, caller, you're on the air. Hi, David.
+
+[21:58] This is Johnny Clark from Memphis, Tennessee. How are you doing? Alright, how you doing? I'm doing good. Great.
+
+[22:04] I I had a question about uh preserving lemon and using Morton's kosher salt with that. Alright. I know what I found was there's like a three percent uh sodium ferrocyanide, if I'm pronouncing that correctly. Um sodium chloride, of course. Um when you the sardine and parascyanide hit is uh meat and acid, it forms uh toxic gas.
+
+[22:40] Well, we're where like uh as far as I know, Morton's kosher salt is one hundred percent sodium chloride. Where that where's that other thing coming from? It's anti-caking. Let me s me let me do a quick uh it would definitely be much less than that amount, but let me let me just check up. In the kosher salt they add an anti-caking.
+
+[23:02] In Morton's kosher salt they have uh anti-caking agent. Let me look it up here for you real quick. Um I also have another question about um something but go ahead. No yeah yeah look uh ask me another question and I'm uh because you normally like I would think that they would use I mean I've never heard of using uh sodium ferrocyanide as a as a it's it lists that on the package no I I had the uh search through the um Morton the MSDS and it would not it it I found it after a long search that it contains three percent which uh I don't know which makes it affects gluten tolerance so I don't know about that either. No it would have to be much like if they were to put something like that in it would have to be much lower than that.
+
+[24:07] Um but I'm gonna look I'm definitely gonna look that up in fact the reason I'm pausing as I say this is I am in the process of trying to look it up as we speak. But anyway um what's your what's your second question while we're while we're while we're where we're looking it up. I have uh I'm trying to package uh anaerobically some um cured meats and you know to have to be sliced thin and I've done it just uh in the vacuum machine and they lose color after being sliced anything that could help them maintain color so you're doing a normal cure red native dark right and you're doing a normal cure with uh with uh nitrites vacuum packing it and then slicing it it's uh it is cured and it is brine I'm sorry and um then it is uh smoked and to internal of about 140 by 150 and then it's packaged after it cools. Right. So I mean color fade is a well known problem in cured meats um because of light and I years ago had done some research on how to ameliorate color fading of cured meats.
+
+[25:48] I mean obviously the the the main thing to do is not to expose them to light. Any nitrite cured meat is going to uh gray out on you if you if you expose it to light. That's why you know when you go to the store and you see the old bacon it's all gray. You know what I mean? Because you lose the color in light but um I'm gonna have to it's been many many years since I've read uh the papers on um any attempts to make the pigmentation in a cured meat light fast.
+
+[26:19] Um I mean, if you store it in darkness, it shouldn't fade on you at all. But I don't know of a way off the top of my head to preserve the color if you're gonna have it be exposed to light in a retail environment. Now I'm sure there is I remember reading about years ago this is a big problem that uh meat producers have, right? And so I'm sure it's been solved, but I'm gonna have to um I'm gonna have to put that one on the uh I'm gonna have to put that one on the on the on the side do some more research for you and and uh uh and talk about it maybe next week when we come back. Stas, you send an email to yourself for next week's read done.
+
+[26:57] All right. So I'll do some research because it's something that I read about years ago but I just don't have it on the tip of my uh uh uh head uh tip of my head doesn't make any sense anyway but I like I'm interested I I was able to find that it is used as an anti-caking agent but the pr but the uh it's gonna have to be the back to the sign I think it's gonna have to be at a super low level and I also see that it's added in um what do you mean super low? Uh I mean I I'm gonna have to look up I'm gonna I'm gonna have to look it up. Um E535 sodium ferrocyanide I don't know how much is in there but mom studies it was three percent. It c maybe maybe it's three percent of the anti-caking agent but it can't be three yeah so then the question is how what percentage of the salt is is anti caking agent.
+
+[27:50] You see what I'm saying? So like uh as I understood yeah it was it was ninety seven and three no it can't possibly three percent of sodi sodium ferrocyanide, which is prussic acid, like I think it's basically the same as prussic acid, would be it would be d death to us. Um has to be I mean especially when it interacts with the acid. Yeah, it's gonna I mean like it's gonna have to be a much much lower uh much much lower percent. Um but I I'll I'll look it up.
+
+[28:25] I'll look it up and I'll I'll tweet that one out and then I'll also talk about it next week when I come back. Okay, can I uh send you email of any things I find? Yeah, sure. Uh yeah, the best way for me to see it, you can send an email to the the regular radio email uh or just tweet tweet me at at cooking issues, and then I can I'm much faster because I see my tweets pretty much every day. Okay.
+
+[28:48] And uh email says Which one what do we use now, Stas? Just mine. We use uh what uh Lopez dot Nastasha Gmail.com? Lopez.nastasia at gmail.com. Yeah, shoot shoot it my way, and I I'll definitely take a look at it because uh I'm interested to know how much cyanide they're allowed to put into our salt.
+
+[29:08] All right. All right, you too. All right, back to Brandon uh Hawkins. He writes uh hammer and the nails. I was wondering if you have any suggestions for a really good salami maker.
+
+[29:19] Thank you, Brandon from Phoenix, Arizona. Now the question is what do you mean by good salami maker? Now, do you mean like the people that make salami, like a producer of salami? In which case I've never had that, you know. Jack, have you ever had anything from the underground meats collected?
+
+[29:32] Yeah, it's very good. Hey, thanks for sharing it, brother. Thanks. We'll get you some more. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[29:39] I've never tasted it. I'm sure it's good. I I'd like to try it. I'd like to try their award winning goat salami. Would you like to try their award winning?
+
+[29:46] Yeah, I would like that. But no, nothing for us. Anyway, all right. Uh I mean, I like here in New York, I like the Salamaria Bialase guys. I think they're really good.
+
+[29:55] And uh, I mean, I think they're excellent, in fact. And um, and I love their products. And uh they were they were some of the like early, they were really early in the wave of people in America trying to make actual high quality salumi. So a lot of people who, you know, in in the past decade or so have um started making um salumi owe a lot to them because a lot of people learned uh and a lot of people who like a lot of people who have taught other people have learned from them. And so, you know, they're they're one of the you know, I think one of the people who deserve a lot of credit for what's going on in the in the US today.
+
+[30:31] I mean, another early an early salami thing, although I haven't had his products was uh Bertoli Cooking by Hand, which is a book we talked about before, had a really interesting section on Salumi in it. Uh I think that's you know that cookbook. I don't know if people read that cookbook. Did people still read that cookbook? Does uh does Mark like that book?
+
+[30:46] I don't know. I don't know. I thought it was at the time it was a classic. I haven't read it uh in a while. Um uh the uh Chris Chris Casantino, our friend, uh Bocolone makes a good product out of uh San Francisco.
+
+[30:58] Armandito Batali, Mario's dad. Uh you've had his stuff, right, really? He has a salumi place in uh what's it called? What's that place called? Seattle.
+
+[31:07] And uh, you know, uh good products. I've had some of his stuff. So a lot of good, but if but if that's not what you mean, maybe you mean uh equipment to make salami, in which case for a curing box, I mean, the cheap way to go, you go to like Auburn Instruments, or anyone get like a PID control for your uh and they have a humidity controller for your uh for your fridge. Or maybe you mean the sausage stuffer. Sausage stuffer, I really don't think there's any need to spend like a boatload of money on a sausage stuffer.
+
+[31:33] I've used the really expensive ones that are like hundreds and hundreds of dollars for the five-pound press, and then I've used uh the you know eighty nine dollar one from uh Northern Tool or Grizzly or whoever happens to be selling them, like to hunters. And the build quality is maybe a little better on the ones that are really expensive, but they stuff sausages just the same, you know. And so like I wouldn't, I wouldn't, unless you're a pro and you're doing it every day. I mean, it's a little bit harder to sanitize uh the crappy hunters ones because the welds aren't as good, and so it's a little bit more difficult to sanitize, but otherwise I would just stick with the $89 sausage stuffer. What do you think, Stuz?
+
+[32:11] Sounds good. Answer the question? All right. Never mind. Um interesting thing in from Michael Natin, and this fits in.
+
+[32:20] This is like this, like three things kind of fit into this uh farm to toilet kind of movement that we're you know dealing with. The uh, or if you have a composting toilet, I guess toilet to farm to toilet, right? That was what we're gonna have like uh Peter Kim from the Museum of Food and Drink was joking that we're gonna do the farm to toilet uh um show. We're not we're not gonna do that. And then I was joking with Jack that we need to start the farm to farm to toilet movement.
+
+[32:44] But anyway, I think it's started. The farm toilet movement? Yeah. When this morning, just kidding. Yeah, just now farm to toilet.
+
+[32:50] Okay. But Michael Nakin writes in, our our good friend, uh, and Nastash has bought like eight copies of his book. I did. Like you buy bought it for all your friends? And family, yeah.
+
+[32:59] Nice. All right. Uh he wrote in and he said, uh, what you know, what do you what do you make of this? And it was this go on Amazon.com and look up by Bernard Jensen, tissue cleaning like tissue, not like blow your nose tissue, but like your bodily tissues. Uh Stas hates the word tissue as it as it pertains to bodily parts, right?
+
+[33:26] Yeah, yeah, yeah. Tissue cleansing through bowel management. Yeah, that's Stas is making the bowel face. Tissue cleansing through bowel management. Uh, and you gotta go, and you know, and Michael's basically it's like like it's like holy crap, take a look at this.
+
+[33:41] You gotta look at the cover. The cover of this map of this book uh is uh it's like a yin yang thing, right? One halves in color and one halves in black and white, and the center of the yin-yang goes through the back side of like what looks to be a 10-year-old naked boy's butt with like an image of the colon like you might have inside, like like right there at the center of the yin-yang thing. And on the left side, the black and white side, it's all industrial pollution and like airplanes and power plants and factories, and on the right side in color is like all apple trees and sunlight and boids and all sorts of nice stuff, right? And so, right off the bat, just like you look at this picture and you're like, this guy's gonna be uh a nut job.
+
+[34:27] And so uh the awesome thing about it is you can look at a lot of it in the Amazon look inside thing. And so here is a choice, a choice tidbit. And I appreciate uh, you know, Michael bringing this to my uh attention, because it shows like here's the thing, right? It's like uh it's like any one of a number of like like the master cleanse idiot that we spoke about before that there's all these people who follow these cleansing regimens, and they're written by lunatics who have this idea that one single problem is or one single issue is the reason uh and the solution to all of our problems. And it's part of this really, really pernicious magic bullet thinking.
+
+[35:05] This this like this this idea, which really, really honestly, dates back, you know, hundreds of years, but in the US, most prevalent since uh, you know Graham and uh and kind of like this uh and and then later the the sanitarian the and the uh the sanitarium movement and the um like the water cure movement and the uh prohibition movement all the temperance movement all of these kind of things stem from this uh like font of evil pernicious thinking that is modern humans have degenerated right and we've we've lost kind of touch with ourselves and our bodies right uh and so we need to get back to that by purging and cleansing ourselves of all these toxins and problems right and today that manifests itself in juice cleanses and other sort of BS detoxifying crap right that you that you hear all about you back in the day it manifests itself with uh eugenics and uh uh mass genocide uh you know what I mean but it's like it's all like the same problems that there's a degeneration of and by the way people are gonna say I'm being hyperbolic but it really comes from the same and if you read if you go back and you read uh where like a lot of these like super crazy things come from they spring from an idea that human beings have uh degenerated and that there is this higher earlier self and it's also unfortunately mixed in if you look at the history of it mixed in with uh good tinges of misogyny there's usually a good dose of anti-Semitism thrown in there like there's all sorts because uh you know back in the uh 1800s and early 1900s, prior to the prior to Nazis, when a lot of the like classic and in quote, but like well-known literature on degeneration was being written that has to go. And in fact, there's a guy, Nordau is the classic author of uh the book Degeneration, which is kind of like the cornerstone of uh semi-modern uh pseudo-scientific thinking on the degeneration of human beings, literally says things like uh literally says things like uh Impressionist painters, this because that's the era he was writing in. Impressionist painters, the reason they paint the way they do is that their eyes have degenerated and they can't see the world like you and I can see it. Like really stupidity on that level. And remember, this is the same time people were going around measuring people's skulls to try and prove that the uh northern European was uh vastly superior based on the geometry of their skull, right?
+
+[37:37] And their brain cavity, like all of these sorts of things, and that you could tell what a criminal uh was like by the bumps on their on their phrenology. But you know, all of these are part and parcel of this idea that there was this great old thing that we've degenerated to. And the like this current feeling of uh that right now that manifests itself in detoxing, right, has its roots in this same sort of demented uh thinking, right? And it's people just don't connect the dots of where their ideas come from. So here's a quote from uh and it he's not talking about you know eugenics here, although Kellogg, who was one of these guys that you know, the serial guy Kellogg, was a believer in eugenics, as were a lot of these uh uh early, like a lot of these early people.
+
+[38:20] Crazy. Anyway, here's the quote that I love. The bowel-wise person is a blessing and source of inspiration to family and associates. His cheerful disposition comes from having a vital, toxin-free body made possible by the efficient, regular and cleansing action of a loved and well-cared for bowel. Every person who desires the higher things in life must be aware of proper bowel management, what it is, how it works, and what is required.
+
+[38:49] In so doing, you will discover many secrets of life. That's a great quote. Yeah. So if you just get your pooper in order, like, you know, all that cancer problem you have, it gone. Anyway, uh, thanks, Michael, for that uh little bit of craziness.
+
+[39:04] Uh, I appreciate it. I encourage all of you to go look at that crazy cover that that person has. But on the subject of poop, got two good poop stories. One, Nils Noran got back from Bali recently and went to a Kopi Luwak farm. And I hadn't realized, so Kopi Luwak is the coffee that comes uh from uh Indonesia, and what they do is is these uh civets, right?
+
+[39:25] Which are these uh as they're called civic cats, but they're not cats. And as Piper reminded me this morning, they're weasels, they're weasels, they're weasels. Piper, like Piper is a s is a hater of many animal varieties, hates beavers, they're on in quotes the list, right? Hates weasels of any variety. Anyway, hates rodents too, as we know.
+
+[39:42] We were threatening to put a woodchuck in a car with him. Remember that? Anyways, do not threaten, or do not even joke with Piper about putting a a woodchuck or any form of rodent in a car that he happens to be in. He's no sense of humor about it, that guy. Anyways, so I didn't realize that Kopi so what happens is these civets they eat the uh they eat the ripest choicest coffee uh cherries, right?
+
+[40:05] And then uh the bean, it they digest the outer uh hull and they poop out the bean, and then you harvest the pooped out beans, and one, they only eat the ripe ones, which is good because that means you know you're only getting the ripest berries, and two, their digestive system is supposed to do something cool to the to the coffee. And there's been studies on it that show that in fact it is altered in certain ways by going through the digestive system. Anywho's. So they have farms now in Bali, and the one I think that Nils went to is a Bali Polina. And Nils brought back some Copi Luwak for us to roast because it's green coffee, not roasted, which is amazing.
+
+[40:45] But he brought me back the special one that they don't sell. They had a one lying around. This one, Stas, you saw it, right? No. Have you ever seen it yet?
+
+[40:53] I have a picture. I'll tweet it out. It's still in log form. Now, I don't know about anyone else listening to this program, but my hat's off to the civet for being able to like create a full-on log after eating all of that coffee. These little suckers are eating just coffee, straight coffee, and like pooping out what looks like um like popcorn ball logs of like coffee beans cemented together with very little else.
+
+[41:23] And you know that if you and I were to eat that much coffee, like we would be set on spray like indefinitely. There wouldn't be any any log action. So anyway, I'll tweet the picture of that out, and then uh I have to figure out. I don't have that much of it, and so I have to figure out what the best washing and roasting thing is, but we'll we'll run through it. Maybe we'll put some some stuff out.
+
+[41:41] But I'd never seen it in log form. So that's the second poop story. And for the third poop story in our farm to toilet uh edition of cooking issues, uh yesterday, uh Nastasha and Piper at the lab were making lunch, and I wasn't really paying much attention to what they were making from lunch. And uh as they're eating, as they're halfway through their lunch, I walk over and I notice that they both have giant plates of uh of greens and freaking Jerusalem artichokes, sunchokes, and I'm like, Holy crap. Are you guys for real?
+
+[42:17] And they're like, what? What? I was like, You really never read The Curious Cook, have you? They're like, Well, yeah, uh parts. I was like, uh you haven't read The Curious Cook, have you?
+
+[42:25] And they're like, no. Even though literally we have a copy of it in the office waiting for Harold McGee to come back and sign because we're going to uh we're gonna auction that off at the at one of the museum things, right? So uh as McGee points out in The Curious Cook, which is a book you should all go get, uh, sunchokes are the fartiest vegetable in the freaking world. They're like the fartiest vegetable. They are so so they store their carbohydrates in the form of inulin, which is, I believe, uh a complex chain of fructose.
+
+[43:02] But your body can't digest this stuff, all right? And it contains a bootload of it. It's like almost, I think like it's it's can be as much as like 40% undigestible inulin in these freaking things, right? And so when you pound it, so if you have a couple of pieces of Jerusalem artichoke in a salad, all right, that's not that much like indigestible stuff. But these guys are eating split a pound.
+
+[43:26] Yeah, you split, you eat a half a pound a piece of completely insoluble freaking inulin fiber, like the fart machines. We're just gonna do it in front of each other. Just gonna just gonna roll with it. Yeah, and I hey people, I was the beneficial beneficiary of all this, but as it says in uh in the introduction to chapter five of uh The Curious Cook, which I'll read from taking the wind out of the sun route. It is strange that among North America's meager handful of contributions to the modern table, two of them should prove to be of such mixed miss mixed blessings.
+
+[44:11] One is the persimmons, whose delights and shortcomings are described in chapter 9. I'll leave you have to go buy the book. Uh you get it on Bookfinder. McGee republished this sucker. Anyway.
+
+[44:23] Actually, the snappily crisp tuber of a sunflower. This vegetable does develop a mild flavor reminiscent of artichokes when it's cooked. After centuries of neglect, it's showing up again in the markets and being grown or growing itself in home gardens. Unfortunately, the Jerusalem artichoke surpasses even dry beans in its power to cause flatulence. Not all cookbooks point this out, and those that do offer few preventative tips.
+
+[44:45] I've tracked down a couple of simple procedures that tone down the Jerusalem artichoke significantly. I also found that the usual explanation for the vegetable's peculiar name was demolished decades ago. There's long been a plausible alternative, and the time has come to dust it off. Well, I won't spoil because you should go read what the gotta go read this section. So I won't spoil about all the history that McGee goes into.
+
+[45:06] But he says that, and it's interesting because did you know this, Jack? I don't know if you knew this. Uh well known fact though, if you if you know McGee, McGee's career as a food writer started with the beat with the farting bean problem. Did you know that? I did know that because we did an evolutionary's uh life story on him, and that's that's pretty much how it opened.
+
+[45:25] Yeah, all right. There you go. Fascinating. So McGee is a you know, he's uh he he was at uh Caltech, and then he went to Yale for uh for graduate in uh in literature, I guess, and he's looking to write something. He's right and uh someone asked him about like why do beans make you fart, and so he he researches that, and that that was the genesis of on food and cooking was that.
+
+[45:47] And then uh and then later in Curious Cook, he tackled the even fartier problem of Jerusalem artichokes. And if Nastasha and Piper had only read that section, they probably would have A, not eaten quite as much of it, and B, they would have followed McGee's suggestions to slice it thinly and boil it for 15 minutes. It's better we found out with each other, because I told Piper you can never make that for a girl for dinner and expect her to stay over. So what if he had done that? So it's good that it happened.
+
+[46:13] Holy crap. And I asked him whether it was a painful sort of farti, and he said it was a painful sort of farti. Because it blows you up like a balloon. Yeah. Anywho, so slice it thin and uh boil it for like fifteen minutes, McGee says that reduces it, or McGee says cook it for a very long time, like twenty-four hours in a very low oven, it turns black and sweet because the inulin's broken down into fructose and then it's digestible.
+
+[46:37] I sent McGee a text uh earlier today. Uh I haven't heard back yet, whether or not he's uh ever tested doing the Jerusalem artichoke in a circulator, but I haven't heard back, so we'll see. Farm toilet edition of cooking itches. Um before the show's up too, we were wondering uh at the station if you had to make a cocktail for a Thanksgiving dinner, what would you go with? Me?
+
+[47:00] You uh And nostassif for that matter. When well what point in the evening am I having it? This would be like uh the the the pre-dinner cocktail. Oh carbonated country. Ah carbonated cocktail.
+
+[47:10] Pre-dinner? I like something with bubbles. Like uh I mean, I don't want something really heavy that's gonna drag me down. I I I like starting with a carbonated beverage. What about you, Stas?
+
+[47:21] What would you I mean? She's like champagne, the best cocktail in the world, champagne. Uh but you're thinking about like seasonal stuff. Piper's got that red hot poker uh squash drink, but I wouldn't do that before the Thanksgiving meal. Uh yeah.
+
+[47:36] I mean, I'd probably go, I'm trying to think of something that would be seasonal at that time. I don't know. What do you think about it for next week? We have two weeks of Thanksgiving. Alright.
+
+[47:45] Oh, and by the way, speaking of, you still have time to order your heritage turkey from Heritage Meats. Our. What are they? What are what's our relationship to them? I mean, obviously, Patrick Martin's Our Found.
+
+[47:57] Our founder. So, but the meat company is our founder? Heritage Foods USA founded the radio station. Yeah. So our our founding fathers.
+
+[48:05] Yeah. There you go. All right. Um, I have something on cocktails I can get to in a minute. But first, uh, I got something in from Robert Lax Esquire.
+
+[48:15] About the uh about the uh Mr. Softy thing we were talking about last week. Um Dear Dave, uh Nastasha and gang, uh a sincere thank you for the fantastic show, which has introduced me to many great new techniques and has improved my cooking skills and enjoyment immeasurably. That's nice. Now, this is this guy knows what he's talking about because here's what he says.
+
+[48:32] As a former good humor man, he had a good he was a driver of a good humor truck, which is awesome. As a former good humor man and now an amateur ice cream maker and enthusiastic ice cream eater, I share your interest in Mr. Softy, which I consider to be a fantastic product. Although it is inexpensive and without pretense, it tastes delicious. And I prefer it to many of the more artisanal soft serve offerings now available.
+
+[48:53] When I drove a good humor truck 25 years ago while I was in college, the sound of the Mr. Softy truck meant I would have to find another neighborhood to pedal my wares that day. Good humor's offerings are simply no competition for the Mr. Softy. Boom.
+
+[49:07] That's strong. That's a guy's like, I was selling the good humor. And when the Mr. Softy truck came, but here's the problem. I have noticed that the problem of Mr.
+
+[49:17] Softy product variability. Oh, uh, anyway, as you noted last week, Mr. Softy machines allow for variable overrun and provide a way for unscrupulous Mr. Softie drivers to sometimes provide more air than ice cream. Through some investigation, he's a lawyer.
+
+[49:32] So he was like investigating this stuff, which I love. He's a fraud lawyer, which is amazing. I love this crap. I discovered that the actual problem of Mr. Softy variability has a different explanation and kind of more sinister.
+
+[49:44] So he's going around and he was noticing that some ones were really crappy. And it wasn't just that it was lighter, but that the texture was wrong, right? It was a bad texture thing. So he looks up that the he looks up the Mr. Softie's telephone number, right?
+
+[49:58] And he beats his weight, and as he notes, right? When I remember I told you I went to their to their warehouse, their their supply depot, and they're not used to human beings at all. Like, it's just not what they do. And somehow, like at the time I was, I don't know, I guess in my late 20s or something at the time, they were like, ah, the f and they just let me buy the Mr. Softie mix.
+
+[50:17] Uh so he similarly, like somehow like waited his uh way through it and got to the president of Mr. Softy, right? And um the guy knew about it. Like, so and like he made it through, I guess, because he was like, listen, I you know, I grew up eating my whole life, I love Mr. Softy.
+
+[50:35] I even used to be your competitor and I quit because your product is so much better than what I was selling. You know, so he gets through to the president, and the and Mr. Softie knows what the problem is. And here it is. Ready?
+
+[50:45] The president of Mr. Softy explained to me that the trucks are owned by franchisees, many of whom hire drivers to run them. The franchisees keep track of the cash receipts they expect to receive from those drivers by reference to the amount of Mr. Softie mix that is used. A given amount of mix makes an expected number of servings and an expected range of cash receipts.
+
+[51:06] The problem, he explained, is that some drivers try to hide cash from their bosses by stretching the Mr. Softy mix by cutting it with plain milk and then pocket the extra cash. The weasels! The result is a substandard product for the consumer, less cash for the franchisee, and less royalty for Mr. Softy.
+
+[51:25] He didn't elaborate, but he told me that they were taking measures to tackle this problem. Anyway, I thought you would find this interesting. I do, Robert. It's extremely interesting. I detest food fraud in any form, whether it's by messing with the over.
+
+[51:37] I factually I'd rather them mess with the overrun, because at least then I got a light product and I know that the guy shafted me. If they add milk, then you think, as you did, that Mr. Softy's quality is just going downhill. It's a huge problem. You know what I mean?
+
+[51:50] And like it's like it's so old school. It's so old school fraud. It's like, you know, watering vodka or or, you know, you know, adultering milk back in the old days. That's like that really pisses me off. That pisses me the hell off.
+
+[52:04] Uh I don't know how they're gonna fix that, but they should, you know, but I guess they have to change how they're struck. Whatever. Anyway. He also says, it would be great if you could send a shout out to my good friend and your former caller, Steve from Moscow, who turned me on to the show and which uh gives us weekly reason to keep in touch to discuss the wisdom we learn from each podcast. Thanks and best regards, Rob.
+
+[52:23] Well, thank you. And on the way out, I'll notice this a couple weeks ago, uh, we were talking about eggplants and uh how they are kept uh super blue in Japanese uh pickles. And I got a note in from Jens Genshin who says that they're blue because literally in Japan they put iron eggplants. Eggplants, little eggplant figures. Figures?
+
+[52:45] Little like eggplants made of iron into the pickling medium when they do it, and that's what causes them to uh stay blue. Thanks, Jen. Jens, rather. Iron eggplants, cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org.
+
+[53:06] You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage Underscore Radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network dot org.
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+[0:00] Today's program is brought to you by Brooklyn Slate Company, a manufacturer of slate cheese boards, coasters, and other fine items. For more information, visit Brooklynslate.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit HeritageRadio Network.org for thousands more. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:30] This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from a birthday's pizzeria every Tuesday on the Heritage Radio Network from Tuesday from Tuesday. Well to Tuesday. From roughly 12 to roughly 1245. She is out. I don't know where she is right now.
+
+[0:49] But we do have in the studio with us today Piper Piper Piper Christianson, right? Yep. Yeah. Uh and we are joined in the studio by and maybe maybe Stas left because Joe is in the uh engineering booth today and not Jack. And there's this, you know, new beef that Stas started last week with between you know her.
+
+[1:07] I heard about this beef. Yeah, right? Yeah. Yeah, yeah. I didn't realize, but you know, it's okay.
+
+[1:13] We'll have like a East West Coast rap battle thing go on or something like that. Something, yeah, something like that. But yeah, you know, so anyways, don't have Jack. We do have uh a newcomer in the engineering booth. Evan, how you doing, Evan?
+
+[1:25] Great, how are you? Doing all right. It's it's like so uh this is first time uh to cooking issue show, right? I believe so. All right, calling your questions to 718 497-2128.
+
+[1:34] That's 718497-2128. With any of your cooking related questions, we'll be here to answer your questions for the next 45 minutes or so. Uh okay. Uh this in from Tony uh Harrian uh from the uh mixing bar in Brazil. Um, you know, don't dealt with him over the years.
+
+[1:51] I've never been to his bar because I've never been to Brazil. I'd like to go to Brazil. You been? No. We should do that.
+
+[1:55] Yeah, but I mean, like they have like the great, like some of the greatest fruit in the world in Brazil. I have you know I have whole textbooks on the crazy different fruits of Brazil. In fact, I believe it's called it's not called Crazy Fruits Brazil, but it's called Fruits of Brazil. And it's it's got a kind of a weird, but I really love it because it's got a weird kind of like light blue cover, and all the pictures of the fruit are on this like weird grid system that's like light blue and like they're all crazy colors, and some things they look like fruits. I mean, like honestly, they're like they're it's you know, like uh if you were gonna come up with like an alien movie, you would look for the fruits in uh this Fruits of Brazil uh book.
+
+[2:33] And then the thing I really like about the book, love it about it, I mean, is that uh it's very hard to get actually. You can get it at the fruit and spice park in their gift shop in South Dade, and there's a couple of Hawaiian fruit uh tree suppliers that sell it. Uh but the uh it wasn't on the Amazon when I checked. Strange. Anyways, uh what's awesome is is that it has a section in the back called exotic fruits.
+
+[2:55] And you know what's in there, Piper? Stripper fruits? Uh no, no, uh, the apple. Oh. Because in Brazil, that that crap's exotic.
+
+[3:03] They're like, an apple? Wow. Apple. I think what they mean by exotic is not from Brazil. Right.
+
+[3:10] Although now I have a stripper fruit going to When you were a kid, were you well, you were you're younger, a lot younger, confused by the fact that Striper, which sounds like stripper, is a Christian band. I don't know the band. No, no, no. Too young. Joe, you Joe, you with me on this?
+
+[3:23] You know the history of rock anyway? Not the history of Christian rock, I don't think. I'm pretty sure Striper is a is a is a Christian heavy metal band. Now you'll miss someone will look it up for me. Uh okay, this in from Tony.
+
+[3:34] Uh hello, uh, Heritage Radio Network and Cooking Issues team. Hope all is well. I had a couple of questions for Dave about non-alcoholic cocktails for the next show. Uh Piper, you can chime in here too. Dave, what is your opinion about the importance of non-alcoholic drinks on bar menus?
+
+[3:47] In your view, what makes a great alcohol free drink and what just doesn't work? Can you give a few examples of interesting drinks that worked for you in the past at events or at Booker Index, either high or low tech? And what are a few solutions that you try to use to mimic slash substitute for the taste or flavor kick of booze in a non-alcoholic drink? Here's an example from Darcy O'Neal. So Darcy O'Neill is the author of uh the book Fix the Pumps and is kind of the, you know, I would say, you know, one of the leaders in the kind of soda soda jerk, soda pump uh uh what's it called, um, resurgence in the past couple of years.
+
+[4:21] And he's a chemist by trade. Uh he has uh uh an excellent blog called The Art of the Drink, which you should look up. And uh Fix the Pumps is kind of like the classic small work, I mean, small, in other words, it's not long, you can read it quickly. Uh, on not small in terms of small and importance, because I think it was extremely influential, uh, on um kind of reviving old soda fountain stuff. And uh so consequently, you know, he spends a lot of time because you know the soda fountain movement went hand in hand kind of with the temperance movement, and people wanted to go out and do things and kind of have fun, uh, you know, in an era where they weren't legally allowed to go pound booze.
+
+[4:54] Uh and so, you know, the the the golden age of the soda fountain is kind of the golden age of the non alcoholic uh mocktail kind of a situation, right? Uh so anyway, so I highly recommend that you go buy Fix the Pumps if you haven't already purchased it. Um and he has an interesting post uh that's pointing to just all you need to look up is cognac oil. And what it is is it's the steam distilled like wine leaves, I guess, from the fermentation that they do. And so and Darcy says that it's kind of like a really good uh thing to add to non-alcoholic cocktails to give some or non-mocktails or whatever.
+
+[5:27] It's really kind of a bad name, mocktail. I always hated saying I don't like saying mocktail. I don't like I don't like the term. I don't like that you're being mocked for not having the alcohol. It also implies that it's kind of an UrsaT drink.
+
+[5:38] Yeah. Yeah. It it implies its own BS nature. It's bad. It's like it's like not a good term.
+
+[5:43] Someone needs to come out. I mean, the per first person I'm sure who said mocktail was like, Mocktail, I'm so smart. Like a piper, who's the king of puns, by the way. I don't know if he's gonna bust any of these puns out uh during the show, but you know, Piper, kind of king of puns, uh you know, that's you know, that's that's beneath you, right? Yeah, that's a little pedestrian.
+
+[6:02] Yeah, mocktail. But I'm guaranteeing the first person who thought of it thought they were a freaking genius, and now it is de facto the term for a non-alcoholic cocktail. Because non-alcoholic cocktail sounds dumb too. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[6:14] All right. They're still cocktails. Yeah, yeah. Yeah. Well, are they?
+
+[6:20] I mean, shrimp cocktails, still cocktail. Oh, good point. The shrimp cocktail. I haven't thought of a shrimp cocktail. Uh, by the way, uh, you know, no offense to the shrimp cocktail.
+
+[6:28] The shrimp cocktail holds a certain um kind of you know feeling, but the crappy, crappy peat pe you know, pre-packed shrimp cocktail, like horseradish ketchup mix like of crappy shrimp plastered into a parfait glass, is weak. Like I would much prefer to have a very you know, nicely made cocktail sauce and then dip a well-cooked chilled shrimp into it rather than have it all kind of pre-glombed into a into a into a crappy glass. Am I wrong? No, I agree. Yeah.
+
+[6:59] Alright, so again, shrimp cocktail maybe doesn't deserve the title either. And just letting the shrimp defrost on the plate. The cooked shrimp. Oh, you hate that. I hate that.
+
+[7:08] What do you what about when you bite into it and you have that little bit of graininess because it wasn't fully thawed? What about the one where they thought in too much water and it inflates with uh with uh fresh water and then starts dripping everywhere. Yeah, it bleaves everywhere. Is that your favorite? I like it with eggnog, I guess.
+
+[7:23] Oh, Piper referencing the fact that Nastasha and I do not like his eggnog. Uh yeah, yeah. Uh okay. So Nastash Nastasha back back in the studio, but still but dealing with whatever the the aftershocks were of the telephone call she had to deal with. Uh uh here, there's a mic over on that side.
+
+[7:41] How are you doing, Stas? Fine. Yeah? Yeah. Yeah?
+
+[7:43] Everything okay? Yes, relatively. Yes. Yeah, nice and sweet. I like I liking everything okay.
+
+[7:48] So here is Darcy's uh recipe uh for aromatic cognac syrup. Five ounces of dealcoholized, it's it's a weird word, right? Dealcoholized. Dealcoholized white wine. I like I like to pronounce the extra H.
+
+[8:02] I don't know why. When I when it's wine, white wine. I like to add the I don't know why. Because I'm stupid. I think that's why.
+
+[8:09] Uh four tablespoons of wine jelly, uh, four tablespoons sugar, seven drops cognac oil, which you can get on the Amazon, by the way. I don't know the quality or not. Uh three drops of chamomile essential oil, three drops uh green peppercorn essential oil, and two teaspoons glycerin for texture. So Darcy in his poster he talks about cognac ale, and I recommend looking into it. Is it you know it's all about trying to mimic the mouthfeel, uh, the aromas that make you think that there's alcohol in there, and then uh some of the biting bracing nature.
+
+[8:36] Now I haven't gone that far into it. I mean uh Nastasha will remember we did a we used to we were doing a skull project with uh Nils Norrin years ago. We gotta we gotta start that up again. Yeah. I'm not gonna do that in my cocktail book, but Stas Stas thinks that when I mean start something up that I mean like today.
+
+[8:51] This is a this is the people out there, this is the classic stuff that uh this is the reason why I yell at Nastasha on air sometimes, and it makes me look like a bad guy. Because she'll sit here and make an uh face like I'm uh like a taskmaster ogre saying that we should maybe at some point revisit starting an incredibly fun project. So, yeah, so that makes me the jerk. Anyway, uh so the yeah, big jerk. Yeah, yeah, fun, big jerk.
+
+[9:16] Anyway, so uh skull project, and uh we had some the idea of the Skull Project is is that you know we we take pictures of people doing this uh Scandinavian ritual of the skull where they do a cheers uh with uh Aka Vit, or any Schnapps, any drink drink really, they do the shot, and you look in someone's eyes, you take the drink, and then you look back. And so we did these triptych pictures and it was fun. It was a fun project. Uh but we had some people we wanted to skull who uh didn't drink alcohol, and so then one of our problems was well, how do we mimic that? And our m our mimicked ones were kind of bad.
+
+[9:46] We wanted them to taste like aqua vite, so it was caraway infusions. Uh and then to make that like kind of like ah doing a shot of Aquavite, we added menthol to it, like menthol crystals. Remember a couple years ago when everyone was puttment menthol crystals in everyone? Yeah. Everything?
+
+[10:02] We were we were some of those people's menthol everywhere. Man, the people who took that shot, they made that kind of menthol face. You know, that menthol face. I don't know. I didn't like it.
+
+[10:14] But uh so when when we're designing uh in fact we don't have but Piper and I have done some non-alcoholic drinks that we want to put on the on the menu. There's a couple of things that you need for a non-alcoholic drink. Uh it can't be as sweet as soda. If it's as sweet as a soda, uh people tend to feel that they're getting a soda. Um sodas are generally in the range of about 10% sugar by weight, around 10 bricks, somewhere between nine and a half and twelve, right?
+
+[10:40] Twelve's like a toothache, but if it there's a lot of bitterness and flavors going on, it can be that high. Um so uh what you need to sometimes do is tone back the sweetness because most cocktails uh like they are in fact less sweet than that if they're carbonated. Now a non-carbonated cocktail can be that sweet, but it's counteracted by the fact that there's uh alcohol in it, which is going to cut some of the sensation of the sweetness. Um so the issue is is you want to do things on the dry side. That's why tonic water is so fantastic because the quinine in tonic water cuts the sweetness perception.
+
+[11:12] Tonic water is typically a little less sweet than than it's on the less sweet side of uh of mixers anyway, rocking around 9.5% sugar by weight, 9.5 bricks for all you techno techno freaks out there. Uh so I think adding bitterness back. Uh the other thing is if you can make something incredibly fresh, even if it would necess kind of be conceived of as a soda, if it doesn't feel like a soda because it's entirely new and different from anything anyone's had before, and you can dial back the sweetness a little bit. I'll give you an example. Piper and I uh clarified some uh watermelon juice um a while back, and uh we made a very kind of light and then we added lime to it, uh and with the peel in it, the peel adds the kind of the essential oils of a fresh peel, which takes it less out of the soda realm and into kind of the cocktail and did a carbonated watermelon soda that would have been good as a um as a non-alcoholic drink.
+
+[12:02] We I make a strawberry soda with freshly clarified strawberry juice that it has a huge punchy flavors, but it's not overly sweet. No one would confuse that for a you know a commercially made soda, and so they would appreciate that the care and time have been made in, you know, put into it for um for it to be kind of registered as something that's like a uh worthy of the the same feelings as an alcoholic drink. The other thing is if you if you can tolerate small amounts of alcohol, like if if you're doing it just because you don't want to drink and drive, then you know you can add all kinds of bitters uh which have alcohol in it uh to like we make uh hops bitters, a hops tincture actually, that you can add that adds like the real feeling that you're having kind of a beery thing to it without having a uh a beer. If you are it if you if you don't want anything at all alcoholic that makes it a little more difficult, then you can only do things like bittering agents and spices and not actual bitters and tinctures that are made with ethanol. But I mean, it's only if you're being very strict because the actual amount of alcohol you're consumed is less than you would consume from eating, for instance, anything that are fermented.
+
+[13:03] Um what do you think? Anything else, Piper, that I'm missing here? Well, I don't really drink soda, but I like sand bitter. So would there be a way to like it? Well, that's because the bitterness syrup.
+
+[13:13] Yeah, well, that's the thing. I mean, so like, you know, like uh so it's the bitter base of compari uh with uh it's a it's the bittering agent. You know what you do is is if you have the sweetness there and you add bitter to it, and all of a sudden it becomes more adult, and you know, it's a bitter lemon's a good one. It's kind of like a uh, you know, it's kind of like tonic but with uh more oils dispersed in it, so it's cloudy, but it's got bitterness and it's more grown up. It's slightly less sweet, it would be more grown up.
+
+[13:40] Uh yeah, so anything like that, like a sand bitters or you know, make would be uh kind of a good, I think a good choice. Yeah. Uh also if you just want a light, more lightly alcoholic drink, then go carbonate yourself some comparian soda, because that is delicious. All right. Uh next question.
+
+[13:58] Oh, by the way, uh if you're looking for cooling things other than menthol, we haven't done a lot of experiments, but you're gonna want with if you actually want to simulate alcohol, you're gonna need to s to stimulate the trigeminal uh senses, kind of. And I am not a fan of uh Sichuan buttons or things like that to do it, but there are like sugar alcohols that can be somewhat cooling on the palate that you might want to use, and uh things like cubebs have a cooling effect. There's also like you know, certain herbs like tarragon can have kind of trigeminal sense kind of uh but you you want to mess with that stuff back there to give people the sense that there's something's going going on. Yeah, okay. Um Eddie Shepherd writes in he has a new vegetarian uh book that he uh that on uh on the iTunes.
+
+[14:38] And uh do you have the uh title of it, Stas? I don't have the title of it. No. I don't have the title of it. Oh, here it is.
+
+[14:44] Uh it is a new digital cookbook on the iTunes called Vibrant Vegetarian. So I'll check that out. I haven't had a chance to read it yet. Uh see what's see what's going on. Vibrant a vegetarian.
+
+[14:53] I am I'm a fan of alliteration. Piper, do you like alliteration? Yeah, I love it. Yeah. Everyone likes alliteration.
+
+[14:58] Do you know that in the old days, uh, you know, before um, you know, English was polluted by the Norman conquest in 1066, uh, you know, English poetry, old English poetry, was a strictly alliterative and non-rhyming uh you know thing based on a kind of a very complex structure of meter and alliteration, like old school Beowulf is you it's it it's completely unintelligible, but it makes you pine for the days when alliteration was kind of the way to go, and we still have that sense of alliteration in our language. That's why rap in Amer in English sounds so awesome, you know, especially American English with all kind of our flat our flat pronunciation of everything. That's why rap is so amazing here in America, and when you ship it, I mean, no offense to MC Solar, but I mean, you know, French French no offense to French rap, but you know, you're not, you know. Anyone with me here? I agree.
+
+[15:52] Yeah, all right. What about you, Joe? You you with me on this? Can't say I really listen to much French rap. Yeah.
+
+[15:59] Maybe uh you can make me a mixtape or something. Uh yeah, look, look, like, you know, MC Solar Galactica, it's all it's all good, but whatever. It's not as cool. It's not that it's not as cool. It's like alliteration.
+
+[16:11] It's like it's why bail will sound so awesome. Like, what we got a day and I and you got a diagram. You know, it's like very visceral. Yeah, you know what I mean? It's like anyway.
+
+[16:18] Okay. Uh I I think that's the first line available. If I can't remember, it's been it's been twenty-five years. Okay. Uh I don't know what the hell else.
+
+[16:25] How'd I get on that? Oh, vibrant vegetarian. Oh, here we go. Uh the question I wanted to ask is about dry ice. I use dry ice for a number of culinary applications.
+
+[16:33] For fast freezing, carrying aroma, etc. I also don't currently have access to liquid nitrogen. Pity. Pity. Pity.
+
+[16:43] But in the UK, it's not all that easy to get hold of dry ice. It isn't widely uh available, so generally you have to order it in reasonably large amounts, at least 10 kilograms at a time. That's uh 22 pounds for you US folks out there. Uh, which is inconvenient and quite expensive. Get this Piper.
+
+[17:00] 80 bucks for 10 kilograms. 80 bucks. 80 pounds or 80 bucks. He says bucks. I'm sure he I'm sure if he's in the UK, he has a little key set for pounds, so he could do it.
+
+[17:09] He must have done the conversion for us. Yeah, that's nice. Thanks. Nice. Uh especially if you are cooking for small numbers of people at a time.
+
+[17:15] I wondered if you had any experience with producing your own dry ice for culinary uses. I've seen online that some equipment is available for making dry ice. These basically seem to be simple things which attach to CO2 tanks. Do you think these might be a good route for making small amounts of dry ice around a kilogram at a time in a more affordable and convenient way? Also, do you think something like these bits of equipment could uh be made at home rather than bought?
+
+[17:37] I know Dave is both very handy with this kind of DIY stuff, and also self-proclaimed cheapskate, so I'm hoping he'll have some tips on this. All the best, Eddie Shepard. Okay. So what you're looking for here yes I have, yes, I have done this. You're looking for something that works on something called the Joule Thompson effect.
+
+[17:56] And the Joule Thompson effect fundamentally is that most gases will uh most real gases when they expand you know rapidly and don't uh give off don't have the time to give off heat to the environment will chill. Uh and in fact um it's so much so that you can convert uh CO2 at room temperature to uh dry ice because remember dry ice doesn't want to exist as a liquid in at atmospheric temperatures uh at atmospheric pressures rather doesn't want to exist as a liquid okay so uh here here here's how here's how it works. Now there are plenty of people on the internet who say that you can make dry ice by taking a CO2 fire extinguisher and putting a bag over it and then squeezing the trigger for a while and then chilling the stuff off and you probably can make some dry ice this way. However this is extremely inefficient process right so that what the what what the items are what you need first of all is a siphon tank. So in the US they're sold as 50 pound CO2 cylinders with a siphon.
+
+[18:58] And what that means is there's a tube extending from the top of the tank all the way down to the bottom so that the pressure on the top from the gas is forcing the uh liquid through the tube and you're actually spraying until it depressurizes you're spraying liquor up liquor liquid CO2 out of the uh out of the tank. So that's the first thing you need is a siphon tank. Siphon tanks are also good if you're gonna fill a lot of your own CO2 tanks. Uh you know, it's good to have a siphon tank because it's easier to fill out of a siphon tank, trust me. Uh the other thing you're gonna want to do is well then then the the commercial ones, you screw a brass valve on it that can handle the high pressures, right?
+
+[19:35] And then that brass valve is designed to more efficiently uh expand the CO2 and convert the maximum possible amount of it into dry ice. There's then a sack attached to that which allows the extra uh gas to shoot out and then collects the dry ice as a snow in that sack. Now there's various, you know, and that's the cheapest one. That's like a hundred bucks that one. And then there's various kind of levels above that that you and you can make it yourself from the valve once you own the valve, and you possibly could make the valve yourself, but I don't know.
+
+[20:05] I don't want to I haven't done it, so I don't want to get into it. But then they they kind of route it through a wooden box or a plastic box, and then the dry ice impacts into the box and compresses itself into a brick, and then you can make a brick that way. I'm sure that once you have the the Jewel Thompson valve scenario thing that you could modify it from a sack collector, because the snow is kind of a pain in the butt, it goes away quickly, to a brick maker. Now, here's the downside. This is an inherently uh inefficient procedure.
+
+[20:34] So uh first of all, uh you know, if you look frigid mat from Bell Art in the US makes uh these makers, and they caution you that it's re you're really only converting the liquid. Once once you're out of liquid, you're not really converting that much more uh into dry ice. And the amount of liquid in your tank is not the same as the weight. So at atmospheric uh a normal cylinder uh at you know at um regular room temperature, only like two-thirds of that or a little more, 70% of that is probably liquid, and the rest is is a form of compressed gas on top. So already out of a 50-pound cylinder, your yield is down to you know 70% of that.
+
+[21:11] Now, take into that that on your on a usage base usage basis, the best you're ever going to get is about 45, 46% of the weight of the CO2 that you spray out of it as dry ice. So that's of that 70, less than 50% of it's gonna turn into dry ice, right? The other thing is sucker's loud. Let me put this, let me say this again. Sucker is not quiet.
+
+[21:32] You know what I mean? Because you're you're opening a tank and spraying it out as fast as you can. It's loud. I mean, you've done that before, Piper. It's loud.
+
+[21:38] Yeah, it's loud. It's loud. It's irritating. You don't want to do it at a bar. No.
+
+[21:42] Or in your living room at night. No, it feels dangerous. Yeah, it's no, it's not the fun. Anyway, I mean it is fun, but it's not fun for other people who don't think that kind of thing is fun. Um and certain ones are much less efficient than others.
+
+[21:56] So the thing is you gotta figure out how much is it gonna cost. Usually on a 50-pound cylinder, you don't buy it, you rent it. And so you have a rental fee on the cylinder, and then let's say it's a 50-pound cylinder, uh, let's say that 70, let's say you get a third of 70 is like what's 70 divided by three piperts like 20, like 25%. Let's let's say you get 25%. So a quarter of 50 pounds, you're gonna get like 12, 12 and a half pounds of uh dry ice out of a 50-pound cylinder.
+
+[22:26] So then the question is how much are you paying for the cylinder? If you're if you're paying the good news about the cylinder is is that you could keep it there for eight years, not eight years because you need to rehydro test, but you could keep it there forever and then make the dry ice when you need it, and there's no sublimation of the dry ice when you know you make it when you need it. So there's no loss that way, but you have to figure out like what your overall cost would be to buy more than you need, have it sublimate, use it, and then have it go away, versus, you know, you know you're gonna get 12 pounds of of uh CO2 out of this tank and uh this dry ice out of this tank, and then is it cost effective? And I just don't know. I haven't done the math in a while, but uh I remember when I when I broke my uh dry ice maker I didn't buy another one if that's any indication.
+
+[23:08] Uh and but you know of course I had liquid nitrogen so there's not as much m need. Here's another thing. If you have a walk in free uh uh fridge uh you should before you make the dry ice the colder your cylinder is the higher the yield you're gonna get out of it because the more uh of the product will be liquid. Yeah yeah you have a caller. Oh caller you're on the air.
+
+[23:29] Uh hey Dave uh Dan Seattle two questions. Well actually one's a comment. Um you were talking about fish sauce last weekend. Yep. Have you ever had the uh red boat fish sauce that became available from Vietnam in like the last 18 months or so?
+
+[23:42] Yeah I like it a lot. Okay. I mean I think it's much better than anything else out there that deserved one. Yeah no here's the problem and it thank you for calling in and the reason is is because the taste test that I had done was before that stuff was available and then so when I thought taste test I just went back into my mind to the old taste test and it wasn't in that lineup because it wasn't available yet. But yeah that stuff's excellent.
+
+[24:04] Alright I was just curious about that. Um and then um my actual question I made the full modernist uh chicken soccer week or three ago and it came out fantastic but it took me a hundred years to actually fry all the ground chicken for the amount of stock I was making. Because I actu I actually deep fried it was my interpretation of what the recipe says to do. Yeah that's a I forget who originally I mean uh I remember Wiley told me uh that about that, and that was a protocol based on some for that's like a ten-year or twelve-year old protocol from someone out of Europe grinding and deep frying, but I forget who originally came up with the I forget who originally came up with the idea, but yeah, okay, go ahead. Okay, so it came out fantastic, but on a home stove, and I've got a pretty good home stove, the time to actually deep fry several pounds of ground chicken, I mean it went on forever.
+
+[24:53] If it if I put the ground chicken, if I spread it flat on a sheet pan in the oven, can I get somewhat close to the same effect? And how much oil and time and uh your first guess at time and temp? Yeah, well I wouldn't I wouldn't sp spread it flat so much. I think like the whole uh the the benefit of the deep fry on the grind is that you're getting maximum surface area of stuff that's browned. Uh and so I would kind of leave it fluff as fluffy as you can.
+
+[25:22] Uh and then I would put them on uh on like as many pans as you can fit in your oven and just pan them in. Uh and I would do like whatever you know you don't want you the the trick is you don't want to scorch it. So I would I would probably do somewhere in the range of 375, 400 Fahrenheit. Sorry, Europe, I turned my oven in Fahrenheit. Uh but like uh somewhere in that range and let the let the stuff roast off like you would a normal bone.
+
+[25:46] I don't think it's gonna require that much higher. Although you probably could go higher because it's so small that I mean the grind, but I I would still stick in that range just because I don't think it's gonna be necessarily beneficial to crank it to 500 or 550, and there's no reason to go lower. So I would I would be somewhere in that 375 to 425 range. If you have a convection, that'll help blow some of the moisture off and get it browning faster. Um but I would definitely leave it kind of fluffed up because the whole concept of that recipe is to uh is to get browning on the maximum possible surface area of uh of product.
+
+[26:21] I will give that a shot on my next go. Thank you very much. And uh do me a favor, tweet me in at at cooking Issues and t tell me how it worked. I will, I will. Thank you so much.
+
+[26:32] Thank you. Bye. Hey, hey, you want you guys want to go to our first commercial break? We're gonna come back for the first commercial break. Calling questions 27184972128 Cooking Issues.
+
+[26:51] Like what you hear so far? Support the network and become a member. Membership helps us bring you the best food radio in the world and gives you access to thousands of dollars in discounts at the sustainably minded businesses that support us. To become a member, visit Heritage Radio Network.org today. Slate quarry in upstate New York in the spring of 2009.
+
+[28:03] The two grabbed a few pieces for use as all purpose boards back home in Brooklyn. They found a number of purposes for the slate and began gifting pieces to friends. The response was so overwhelmingly positive that the two struck out to produce a line of slate products. They now make regular trips to the family quarry in upstate New York to hand pick their favorite pieces of black and red slate. Some of the slate is sourced from the quarry graveyard, a collection of odd shaped pieces that were ultimately destined to be ground for use as road cover or baseball diamonds.
+
+[28:34] They then transport the pieces to their studio in Red Hook, Brooklyn, where they do additional cutting and clean the stone to be food slate. Every single piece of packaging that comes with their products from the envelope to the burlap bag, can be repurposed for other uses. The end result is a product completely unique in cut, shape, color, and overall presentation. For more information and to order, visit Brooklyn Slate.com. Now through December, enjoy 10% off your purchase at Brooklyn Slate.com with discount code Heritage.
+
+[29:05] And we're back! I like the Brooklyn Slate people. We actually accidentally shafted them. They donated a bunch of stuff to the museum a couple of years ago, and then we had to tell them that that you know we didn't have our 501c3 status in order, so we love them and thank them and are sorry about that. I think we told them they're invited to any event that they want to.
+
+[29:24] Yeah. They're good people. They make they make they make good good. I like slate. Slate is a good product.
+
+[29:30] Yeah. I mean, of course, Piper thinks so he's from Vermont. Uh Vermont. It's the New Hampshire of next door. Whoa.
+
+[29:39] I don't know whether you guys know this. People who people who like, you know, aren't from the Northeast of the United States might not know that you'd think that Vermont and New Hampshire, which are basically identical structures, like flipped and then stuck next to each other, like they look identical to each other, just kind of flipped end for end and glued together. That these guys they don't like each other so much. It's kind of like it's kind of like they don't like each other. We're from different parts of Pangaea.
+
+[30:02] It's not it's not the same place at all. I mean, like physically that they look the same, just flipped. Right? I mean, Vermont looks like an upside-down New Hampshire. Yeah.
+
+[30:10] Or vice versa. Right. Yeah, and they're both literally right next to each other. Right. Like a doppelganger.
+
+[30:16] Yeah, but New Hampshire has no laws. Seat laws. They have no seatbelt. You don't have to have insurance in New Hampshire, you know that? I didn't know.
+
+[30:23] I don't live free or die, right? Yeah, live free or or die. Turns out that whether or not you live free, you eventually will die. Uh anyway. Uh interesting.
+
+[30:31] Michael Nakin writes in, uh, he was enjoying the farm to toilet uh discussion we had yesterday last week. And he goes, Dave, love the c uh tissue cleansing through bowel management rant. You exceeded my fondest expectations. Well, well, well, thank you. Uh Nastasha and Piper.
+
+[30:46] This is regarding their uh overindulgence in Jerusalem artichokes last week. Uh, which, you know, if case you, you know, well, of course, you know, if you didn't hear last week, Jerusalem artichokes contain uh a very, very large quantity of a non-digestible polysaccharide called inulin. And uh when you eat a large quantity of inulin, you you have painful bloating tooting phenomena going on for a good long time. And I I was laughing because had they just read The Curious Cook, they would have known this beforehand, and both Piper and Nastasha for lunch decided to just inulin themselves like straight up the wazoo. Anyway, so uh Michael writes in, uh Nasasha and Piper, may I suggest you read Undaunted Courage?
+
+[31:31] Uh, if I'm remembering it right, Lewis and Clark had to overwint in uh overwinton, overwinter with uh uh Mondan Indians for two years in a row in the frigid Minnesota winters. They were stuck inside the teepee's for months at a time, and guess what? The main source of food was? Yep, Jerusalem artichokes. Can you imagine the aroma?
+
+[31:49] Compared to that, the two of you are probably like a field of daisies. So you can tell Dave to quit his whining. Michael Nakin. Nice. Nice.
+
+[31:58] He's a good guy. Yeah, yeah, that's a good guy. Good guy. Strong. Uh another thing before we go any further, uh, we are going to announce that Booker and Dax is going to have the Kickstarter launch for the Sears All.
+
+[32:10] Sears all Sears All on Black Friday. That's right. For those of you that aren't from the United States, Black Friday is the day after Thanksgiving when everybody is supposed to go out and consume like wild people here in the U.S. for the Christmas season. And we have decided to put our Kickstarter on air for the Sears All on Black Friday.
+
+[32:29] You want you guys want to talk about this a little bit? Yeah, well, we're launching at uh actually midnight on Thanksgiving. Well, it's not Thanksgiving anymore, if it's midnight. Piper's the guy that came in. Maybe this is a Vermont thing.
+
+[32:39] He's like, So midnight is that is that AM or PM? I'm like, it's A, it's the next freaking day. It's the next freaking day. Mom listens to the show. Uh I'm sure your mom knows that it's the next day.
+
+[32:52] I'm just breaking on you. Anyway, whenever I say anything, Piper's like my mom listens to the show. That's that's what he always says, what? It's still gonna feel like Thanksgiving at midnight on I agree. I agree.
+
+[33:02] You know, as far as the human body is concerned, it's not the next day till you wake up. That's why if you pull in all nighter you'd like your calendar gets messed. Yeah. Yeah. Meanwhile, though uh from from a feeling standpoint, you're right.
+
+[33:11] Regardless, we're launching it on midnight on Black Friday. Yeah. So the uh so anyway, and we're gonna have it up. We haven't decided yet whether we're gonna run it uh to Jan 1 or whether we're gonna kill it on uh the 26th of December. Have we decided?
+
+[33:26] Twenty fourth was what we're gonna say. Midnight on Christmas. Why would you do that? I don't know. No, I said we should have it run through.
+
+[33:35] Okay. Anyway, it'll be on Kickstarter. So here's what here's what the here's the story with it. So, you know, for those of you that uh, you know, I don't know, uh don't know. Uh here's the problem.
+
+[33:47] When you're at home, uh often you don't have access to very, very high intensity heat source to do things like finish low temperature meats or any anything like that. So normally a lot what a lot of people do, which I think is a horrible idea, is they use a torch. And when you use a torch, you create all sorts of off flavors in uh in the food that they're we call it we call it uh torch taste. Torch taste. Torch taste.
+
+[34:11] And it smells like uh products of combustion, and indeed uh, you know, Ariel at UC Davis did some GC mass spec for us and showed that in fact you are creating kind of secondary compounds from the super high intensity high uh heat flame from a torch uh that cause these kind of off flavors. So we developed and have a patent pending on this little device that turns uh the heat from a torch into a three-inch uh like infrared uh radiant or not radiant infrared broiler kind of uh that you can hold in your hand. Uh and so it makes kind of very quick work of that. It's also you know, reheat pizzas, whatever, do whatever you want. Uh melt, you know, gr Piper likes to grill cheese with it.
+
+[34:49] I like to finish steaks. It does great work on scallops. It's the only way I would ever cook foie gras ever again. I would never cook foie gras any other way ever. It's actually a higher heat intensity than uh a salamander, it's more similar to a deck broiler.
+
+[35:02] Um but anyway, so we're gonna launch this guy, and I also like it because like let's say it in a restaurant, it's not really for like very like heavy duty use in a restaurant because it's small and you have to hold it while you're working. We're we you know, years we have a patent on the on the technology, so like we could build a huge one that would be like the world's most insane uh, you know, grill if we wanted to, but that's down the line. Anyway, but in a restaurant, like if something comes out and it's not totally finished right, you could finish it, like you know, spot finish things, or if you're on Gaudranger and you have like one particular thing you want to do, you don't want to like ha be near a hotline, you can finish something right there. Or if you're doing catering events, or you know, you're out at a picnic and you want to, you know, just have something you can carry around and just put like a nice flame on some kind of smaller things. It's kind of a good tool for that, right?
+
+[35:45] Yeah. Do you agree? Um, you know, and I like it better for things I don't like it, like it's first of all, it's more powerful than a heat gun. Like the t it it plu literally plugs on a torch. So it's converting a torch to this other thing, and you could take it off and use your torch as normal, or you can put this on and and use it like a Searzole.
+
+[36:01] Um I like it better than it's more powerful than something like a heat gun. Torch you don't want to use because it makes bad taste. Heat gun would be okay, but heat gun is much more kind of focused and smaller, and uh it's not as not as powerful. And the big thing I don't like about the heat gun is got a t uh got a cord on it. I hate having to have cords on stuff when I'm using it in in a kitchen.
+
+[36:21] It's really irritating. Uh anyway, so we're gonna kick start that thing. And have we agreed on the on the kind of what we think it's we should not talk about price or anything like that, right? Not yet. Still hammering it out.
+
+[36:32] Because the the deal is is that we need uh pretty good insurance uh for this. So we have the insurance and we're gonna have to go um and get it manufactured. Right now, Piper and I go down into the basement of Booker and Dak's lab and weld all these suckers by hand. And uh we don't intend to do that. No.
+
+[36:47] We want to have the best product made that we can. So we're still working on figuring that out. But yeah, so anyway, so we hope you all come by it. Uh and this you won't have to tweet me anymore and ask me when we're finally going to kickstart it because we're we're gonna do it. You can see it on Al Jazeero America.
+
+[37:03] I don't even know was it on that? Was it actually on yeah? Did it look okay? Did you see that? I haven't seen it yet.
+
+[37:08] Yeah. Anyway, okay. Oh, and we started a uh Twitter for the Booker Index Lab. Oh yeah, what is it? At Booker Index Lab.
+
+[37:16] And we'll be uh posting some photos of the Sears all and the stuff we do there. Ooh, follow antics. Follow, follow, follow, follow the follow the at Booker Index Lab. Follow us. Yeah.
+
+[37:24] Uh what are you saying? What's going on? Hey, so Dave, I have a I have a question in that's uh basically what does the trans fat ban mean for the mass marketers of things like sweets and candy and all everything that has lots of trans fats in them. Uh it'll probably just make it a little more expensive. You can remove trans fats, like there's uh you know, like you can go into the store right now and buy trans fat free Crisco.
+
+[37:46] Uh it's just uh probably it's probably gonna be a uh cost increase. I mean I would say that's uh that's about it. There's no in other words, the transness of the fat doesn't uh change the functionality of the fat. The transness of the so it's what w the the deal is is that um when you um you know when you r remake and break double bonds, you can do it in in a in a way where uh where they the depending on cis and trans has to do with what side of uh of a you know a double bond they the substituted chains are on, cis meaning it's on the same side, and trans meaning it's on the opposite side. Uh and so um the cisness or transness doesn't affect really things like the temperature at which the fat melts or anything like that.
+
+[38:34] Uh it affects more the um it affects more how your body reacts to it. And so the it's in the manufacturing of fats that they produce um you know of uh things like Crisco and other shorties that they produce these trans fats. So all you have to do is then get rid of the trans fats or do another process to isomerize them to trans. And so all I can foresee really is a price uh maybe a a price increment and not a functionality increment. Does that make sense?
+
+[39:05] Yeah it makes completely sense. Okay. Um got a question in from we talk enough about the uh Sears all there. Mm-hmm that's good. What about what is it called Booker and Dax Lab?
+
+[39:16] At Booker Indax Lab. At Booker Index Lab who runs that you run that Piper? We co-run it the hammer and Piper. So if you need if you don't want to if like you look Nastash's Twitter handle is hammer uh at hammer BDX. I don't think she ever looks at it.
+
+[39:28] I do. Yeah. Every day. Yeah. And and Piper I think has Piper BDX or something like this, right?
+
+[39:34] Yeah, not getting a lot of action these days. No. Nice. Alright. But anyway, uh follow those guys and for all the what's a who's anyway.
+
+[39:41] Uh Alex writes in hello Dave Hammer and the revolving cast of others. Jack or whomever else there may be there this day. Oh what's up, whomever? Joe. Oh hello.
+
+[39:52] Yeah. Uh excellent show your efforts are greatly appreciated. I've convinced my wife that a kitchen update is a good idea. Strong. Uh I am stealthily trying to put some more precise slash modern tools into the plan.
+
+[40:03] We have a six burner gas range and I want to expand my options. My wife is reluctant to give up the storage or the counter space, but she is open to a flat top perhaps even a 24 inch accu steam griddle if I can find one in good shape. Uh accu steam griddle for those of you that don't know is a is like a sandwich layer stainless steel griddle that has water on the inside and it has an extremely fast recovery rate. Everyone that has it in a short order situation loves it because the recovery rate is almost instant and everybody respects them and thinks they're great. The only downside of them is that uh they they can fail because they're a pressure vessel and need repair, and repair on an accu steam is expensive.
+
+[40:39] So if you talk to people who don't make, you know, people other griddle suppliers, and you're like, what about accu steam? They're like, oh yeah, yeah, it's it's great. The only thing that we can say is that it might break, and then you're at SOL. Anyway, that's just my my two my two cents, but they are good products. Uh while they look fun, uh, and then can release my uh inner short order cook, that's the AccuStream.
+
+[40:57] I don't know how much use it would get in a world where uh a fry pan or two will usually do. You know what? Another good thing to get any sort of like the problem with most griddles is they don't have a super, they're not really high heat enough and they and they don't heat up quickly enough. In my house, I have a uh an actual gas fire, the electric ones are garbage. A gas-fired uh crampus crepe maker, which is how wide is this, 18 inches my hands?
+
+[41:20] 24. Yeah, it's somewhere between 18 and 24 inches, uh cast iron top. Heats up to if I need it to 615, can throttle down to um you know, down to uh low enough temperature to do pancakes and even lower, and it's super fast and it's fairly compact and it's on the counter, gas fired. This thing is awesome. They're hard to find here in the US, but next time you're in France, they're not that expensive in France.
+
+[41:43] And you can get them here in the US, they just cost twice as much as they should. Anyway, uh I do not know how much I would get to use a griddle where a fry pan or two would usually do. Instead, I want to push, I'll tell you what's good on that uh crepe maker is uh razor clams. Oh, razor clams, plancha style. Razor clams.
+
+[42:00] Uh instead, I want to push for a 20 to 35 pound uh tube deep fryer. I've been okay with frying on the range top, though the small batches and consistently adjusting the temperature, recover them, and then not overheat them can be a pain. So a better solution is sought. I've heard you mention that to become a master of the fry, you need a real fryer. True.
+
+[42:18] True. My wife's concern is the safety, maintenance, slash cleaning requirements, and how big it should be to be useful. Assuming I use a quality fry oil, and you should get commercial fry oil, by the way, uh commercial. Uh what kind of life can I expect out of the oil? How often is it filtered or replaced?
+
+[42:33] How should it be stored? Besides a type K fire extinguisher, are there any other safety precautions you recommend? Any features I should seek? Any other advice on whether or not a fryer is a good idea? Thank you, keep up with good work.
+
+[42:42] Well, look, from a cooking standpoint, there's no question that a deep fryer is a good idea. It's unquestionable. From a cooking standpoint, let me put it this way there is no question. Um lasts in a home environment for a tremendously long time. Uh if you, you know, you f you fit filter it regularly.
+
+[42:57] Uh I just keep it in the fryer and cover it completely so that it's not exposed to air or light so that you're not getting light-based oxidation or a lot of oxygen uh oxidation on the top of it, and it lasts for a long, long time. And you can just test it uh in between fries with a with like a piece of bread to taste to see whether the oil is starting to get that cardboardy rancid taste. But because you're using a tube fryer and all the stuff sinks to the bottom, it's gonna last a long time. Get it, you know, a stainless steel uh pot and you're good. Like the old the iron ones aren't as good for keeping anyway.
+
+[43:26] Here's the thing, your wife is 100% right. These are completely uh not necessarily safe in a home environment, they're not rated for a home environment, and let me put it this way this might uh void your homeowner's uh insurance. If you have a fire based on having a deep fat fryer in your house, a commercial deep fat fryer in your house, your uh homeowner's insurance might be void. Let me say that again. Your homeowner's insurance might be void.
+
+[43:47] Uh also if you're not set up to battle a fire from a fryer or you don't know how to use a fryer or you're gonna freak out if there's a fire, this is a dangerous proposition. I I will point you at these YouTube things. Look up Mythbusters water on oil fire, right? And uh they have awesome slow-mo images of them dumping a cup of oil into uh an oil fire and showing what happens. This is by the way, why you don't ever have a deep fryer next to a stove, because you might spill oil into something, and then what happens is is that the water instantly vaporizes, and if oil is let's say you're when you're using a fryer, you should never leave it ever.
+
+[44:25] But you should never leave it unattended because you can see if it's starting to go over over hot on you. If it goes over hot, if in other words a thermostat breaks and it goes into runaway, thermal runaway, once the oil auto ignites, and then if something like water hits it after it's auto ignited, then you're misting it if the water hitting it will cause tiny oil droplets to be at you know sprayed into the atmosphere like a f like a like a like an aerosol. That aerosol will ignite into a fireball, right? Here's the other problem about fire extinguishing an oil fire. If you fire extinguish an oil fire on, if you have oil that just spills out of the fryer and hits a heating element and ignites, sure, then you can uh you can hit it with a with a type K fire extinguisher, and it's not gonna be a big problem.
+
+[45:09] If you have thermal runaway and your entire batch, 30 pounds of oil, is at auto ignition temperature, and you spray it, what you're doing is you're spraying oil with the with the with the extinguisher, you're spraying oil at its auto ignition temperature all over your kitchen, where it will then again ignite as soon as you release the uh fire extinguisher, unless you have enough fire extinguishing power to uh like kill it completely and cool it down, which is why they have ansel systems and in an Ansel system, the goop that they spray out of your ancil system uh especially saponifies the fat so that it doesn't uh reignite after it stops, and it puts a suppression blanket on top of your fryer for like twenty seconds please look up pyrochem kitchen night two fire test demonstration and for an extremely uh boring uh i they're boring but you go through them and Ansel R-102 suppression system versus dry chemical extinguisher on YouTube especially that second one Ansel R102 suppression system versus dry chem extinguisher and you can they it's really boring go to the interesting parts you can see a firefighter spraying a dry chemical extinguisher on uh on a on a thermal runaway auto ignition oil temperature fire from a fryer and the disastrous results contained also for a good laugh look up William Shatner turkey fry because William Shatner has a safe he's like I love fried turkey it's the taste it's my taste I love it I fried turkeys but then he has like the safety thing where they show like an entire like garage melting down from uh someone putting uh uh a poorly thawed and or too much oil in it. So check that stuff out. Um but anyway, yes from a cooking standpoint they're the best. Amazing fair? Fair.
+
+[46:43] Fair okay um caller you're on the air. Hey Dave it's Nathan from Richmond. Hey how you doing? Good man um I've been reading this book called uh Pulmonary Reactions by Simon Clownfield. Maybe you've read it before.
+
+[46:57] Uh I don't have do you have that Piper? No. Nope, go ahead. Okay. So he's talking about turkey and he wants to cook his turkey at a a relatively low temperature um 96 C for a long time in the oven.
+
+[47:12] Right. But initially he rinse the bird with hydrogen peroxide, and I've never heard of anyone doing this. Huh? I wondered. Why does he bleach the turkey?
+
+[47:23] Because he says he's gonna cook it at a low temp, so he wants to completely remove the chance of any like uh bacterial growth. Especially bauxulism, since uh hydrogen peroxide will break down into oxygen and help help keep botulism from growing. Alright, Piper, like all right. Like tweet me the tweet me the name of the book and the protocol. I'm gonna look that sucker up and we'll talk about it.
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+[47:48] We still have time before Thanksgiving next week, right? Cool, yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah, yeah. So I'll look that up. Hydrogen peroxide on the bird.
+
+[47:55] You heard of that, Piper? Is it a is it a base? Hype peroxide? I'd say it's an oxidizer. It just kills things.
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+[48:01] It's a it doesn't work based on acidity, it works based on like literally like ripping things apart. Yeah. Have you ever poured hydrogen peroxide on your on a cut, Piper? They don't have that up in Vermont. Spit.
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+[48:14] Ah, nice, nice. Yeah, so we'll uh I'll I'll look that up and and uh and we'll we'll we'll try to see if we can figure out what's going on. I mean, I would prep I would prefer to use kind of a slightly nitrated salt and get that cured taste rather than use a uh hydro peroxide. But I don't know, I'll go buy some hydrogen peroxide, we'll dump it on at I don't know if I have time because we're working on the Kickstarter, but I'll I'll definitely at least research it. Piper will have me research it and we'll get back to you next week.
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+[48:36] Okay, awesome. Thanks, Dave. Alright, thank you. Um Toronto writes in Dear Cooking Issues team, uh, any uh recipes involving powder gelatin, consistently ask that first be hydrated, then heat it up. Two questions.
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+[48:47] As long as there's enough water, won't the gelatin hydrate as it heats up anyway? And two, to what temperature uh must one heat the mixture in order to melt the said gelatin? And thanks and keep up the good work, Alex in Toronto. Actually, they don't tell you to add uh to the cold water to hydrate it. They're they're putting you in to swell it so that it can disperse easily before you hydrate it.
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+[49:05] What they're worried about is that you add the gelatin powder to a hot liquid and it forms clumps that then take a lot longer to dissolve. The reason that doesn't happen in jello powder is because there's so much sugar separating the gelatin that uh it easily disperses in uh hot water, okay? Um but the blooming, as it's called, is not a hydration. Any hydrocolloid uh that you use, and gelatin, even though it's a protein is classified as a hydrocolloid, is usually a two-step process. Disperse, which is what you're doing with the blooming process, getting them swollen but yet not glued together, uh, and then hydration by heating.
+
+[49:40] And uh gelatin hydrates what, like what 140, something like that? Fahrenheit? Somewhere like that? It's pretty low. Something like that.
+
+[49:46] I just do it by eye. I've never actually measured it, and probably depends on the gelatin. I just do it by eye. Yeah. Anyway, there that's your answer.
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+[49:52] Uh Patrick uh Patrick writes in on ham. Dear cooking issues, gang. I'm thinking of trying to cure ham in a location upstate New York whose low and sometimes high temperatures dip below the freezing point for one quarter to one third of the year. This excludes a completely ambient curing and aging process, but I'm thinking of providing just enough heat to keep the temperature above freezing to do a semi ambient ham and then let it age for a long time, at least over two summers, where the temperatures are still still relatively mild. I don't have a desire to produce a facsimile of another place's ham, but instead want to do something that stands on its own.
+
+[50:20] Do you think in general this is an okay idea? Or is it that simply not a good idea to do a semi ambient ham, most likely unsmoked, outside of the traditional ham belt climate zone you described before? Completely ambient seems out of the question. Also, are there any detailed references in English you would suggest for ham cure uh curing? I have a copy of Fidel Tolders' dry cured meat on the way, and Paul Bertoli's cooking by hand has a really good description of his own prosciutto method.
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+[50:41] Not looking to replicate other processes, but make a country ham that tastes like its own unique climate and geography. All the best, Patrick. Okay, listen, look this up. Uh dry curing Virginia style ham, Virginia Cooperative Extension by Norman Marriott. It's about Virginia ham, but it talks about the general procedure, how to pick out a ham properly for curing, uh although, you know, I don't necessarily agree with all of his trimming procedures, but it goes into salt levels and things like this.
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+[50:59] And he actually is an advocate of the bag style cure. And it's probably good for curing small amounts of ham rather than the box cure where you're layering lots of hams on top of each other. The bag cure, you add the specific amount of salt you need to the particular ham, wrap it, and then you know you overhaul it a couple of times, but it's you know uh easier to get to get right. I think that you have a good idea. I don't think it's gonna be a problem uh as long as you keep it from freezing if you have it in a semi-controlled place.
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+[51:30] And you've got to remember a lot of the smoked hams uh that you know we have you know over time come from more northerly places where freezing is a possibility, and so things were hung near fires to keep them from uh freezing, among other things. Uh and so I think that should that should work great. And I'm looking, you know, I'd I'd love to try an upstate New York style ham semi-ambient semi-ambient ham. Yeah, but remember, your your aging temperatures, like the reason that the country hams, my feeling is taste the way they do, southern country hams is the very high humidity, uh high uh temperatures that they experience in the summertime. Uh and most of your aging, uh most of the kind of funkiness from aging is going to happen during uh the uh summertims.
+
+[52:10] Okay, uh last week we had in uh a caller asking about sodium ferrocyanide in salt. Uh and uh Elliot Papanell wrote in with the uh with the uh actual sheet from Morton saying that there can indeed be there. But it's not gonna hurt you. First of all, sodium ferrocyanide, it's not 2%. It's uh 20 milligrams per kilo of salt is the maximum allowable amount in uh in the European standards anyway, which is like oh, I have to do the math, but it's like 0.0002% uh of of uh sodium uh ferrocyanide.
+
+[52:46] And sodium uh ferrocyanide, ferrocyanide is a si is a bunch of cyanides glued around a an iron uh atom, and the iron bonds so well with the cyanide that it takes an acid stronger than stomach acid to release hydrogen cyanide gas. And so sodium ferrocyanide is relatively non-uh toxic. You need to consume a whole bunch of it for uh for it to hurt you, and there is not, and it's you know, and there's not that much of it in there anyway, but indeed it is there. So it's remember it's not two percent, it's 20 milligrams per kilo, which is very very, very low. Um Chris uh Chris Kohler uh writes in uh well is pronounced it's written like collar, like holler, like Chris Kala, but it's co but it's Kohler.
+
+[53:27] Anyway, uh two questions pertaining to bread and proofing dough. I've been making Levan style bread for about six months now and continually amazed with how long it lasts. Uh last being quantified in days without drying out, molding, or showing significant drops in quality. My first assumption was uh that this bread is 77% hydrated and that uh that's playing a role in lasting longer. I recently did a uh side-by-side of 77% Levain bread and 77 per hydrated no-need bread with commercial yeast and a traditional kneaded bread at 77% hydration with commercial yeast.
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+[53:55] All three breads were made in a standard country style loaf. The bread made with the Levan was a clear winner and lasted a week with a slow decline in quality. The kneaded bread lasted for four days, and then no-knead bread was shot after two. Any thoughts on what's going on? And uh as a follow-up, I recently got a wood-fired oven and I'm trying to convert a mini fridge into a proofing chamber so I can hold pizza dough at 65 Fahrenheit for extended uh periods of time.
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+[54:16] I can't imagine this being too difficult, but the scope of my scientific knowledge is i in the world of medicine, not engineering. Thusly, I'm often intimidated by the smallest electrical projects. Thanks for the help, Chris uh Kohler. Uh, so uh as far as uh the first thing, yes, a sourdough technique, especially on whole grain breads like Levan's, it uh is has a um a radical uh effect in a positive way on the staling properties of um of doughs. I point you to this article in uh food microbiology from 2007 called The Impact of Sourdough on the texture of bread.
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+[54:51] And uh there's a couple things going on. Uh the acidity from a sourdough starting is uh causing directly causing some of the anti-staling uh things by uh how it uh affects the way enzymes are breaking down starches during the fermentation process, and also probably due to their effect on the gluten in general, which they say can affect staling, although I'm not exactly sure how, I'd have to go reread the whole article. The other thing is is that the lactic acid bacteria uh that are growing in a sourdough starter make their own extracellular cellular polysaccharides, which can lead towards uh can lead towards anti-staling effects and also break down other things like proteins and other things that are more present in uh whole grain breads. And so a sourdough plus a whole grain bread is probably vastly superior from a staling technology, but uh just go read the impact of sourdough on the texture of bread. Um I went to go look for uh my copy of the bread builders, which I think also, even though it might be out of date, is a very good book on that style of bread, but it's already been packed because I'm moving very soon.
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+[55:49] Um anyway, I hope that helps. Uh John writes in, and I guess this will have to be our last one, right? Because we're getting we're getting kicked off the air in a second. Uh John writes in, uh Hey Dave, Nastasha and the crew. I had a question about ginkgo, specifically the evil female tree.
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+[56:04] For a while, my wife and I have had a ginkgo on our block and did collect the seeds for a brief moment to dry out the seeds for a Chinese dish we wanted to try, but unfortunately, soon after the process of separating the softer flesh of the seed from the inner seed, we found during the process that the fruits contain uh you're I can't pronounce it, I can't pronounce anything, ureusurol, the stuff from from uh well from from uh poison ivy. Uh urecial. I can't pronounce it. Anyway, uh contains that uh which made for very unpleasant few days following. That tree is long gone, but I do see a lot of the trees dropping their stink seeds around New York City uh now, and was wondering if I was brave or crazy enough to brave the stench and collect them again.
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+[56:42] Is there a way to neutralize uh the uh the you know the dermatologically uh impaired product, which I will not try to pronounce again, before trying to get the seeds to avoid getting poison oak side effects again. While the fresh seeds were good, I am not sure the risk or effort involved is better than the ones you pick up in a Chinatown, aside from knowing their origin and processing uh and processing them yourself compared to the industrial variety. Thanks. Hope all is well, John. Okay, look.
+
+[57:04] So, in fact, uh look, uh urichurol, however you pronounce it, is actually that technical thing is only from that family, the Anacardius anacardacy, which is like mangoes and poison ivy and and and whatever. I looked this up and I didn't know that this is in ginkgo, and again, my my book on uh poison ivy problems, which I have a couple actually, but they're already because I'm fascinated with trees and put stuff now, uh, have been uh packed away already for the moose, so I couldn't go look look that up. But it turns out that ginkgo uh has a related uh compound in it um that can cause dermatitis, but doesn't necessarily cause it for everyone. So, in other words, some people who were because I'm highly allergic to poison ivy, but I've smashed ginkgo seeds this year, in fact, and haven't gotten any any problems. Here's the other problem.
+
+[57:50] Something you mentioned. First of all, ginkgos are unrelated to any other living extant tree. They are they're they are kind of they're alone in their group. They're usually classified with the conifers, but they're kind of like a living fossil. And they're only really wild in China, but they were brought over and extensively cultivated in other places, including here in New York City.
+
+[58:10] Trees are either male or female, unlike many trees which have male and female parts on the same tree. And the female trees produce stinky, stinky, stinky, stinky ginkgo nuts, which is why most people who cultivate them only cultivate the males. But you can here in New York City, I can verify this from my own personal experience. Fine, in fact, there's one right outside of MoFat Offices. There's a female tree that was dropping its nuts.
+
+[58:32] These nuts. And and uh you pick it up, and it's not really a seed anywho. But you break it and it you smell homeless. Uh and you can't wash the homeless smell after because of the intense concentration of butyric acid on it. Now, I did not know that it also contained an irritant, but in fact it it does.
+
+[58:50] Uh and so uh I will uh did I write it down? I there's a I will try to look more into whether or not there's any way to actually stop yourself other than gloves. Uh I mean gloves, right? Gloves. But I I don't think of any I haven't found anything that specifically inactivates it.
+
+[59:06] I was reading an article on the uh preventing of occupationally related contact dermatitis, but and that came up when I searched for ginkgo, but I wasn't able to find the specific ginkgo reference that kind of had to work around it. But man, if you can brave that stench, first of all, the fact that you put that stuff on your hands with the smell because it's so hard to wash out of your hands. I was sitting there washing for like so long to get the stink out. Uh there are things called barrier creams that uh are given to forest rangers and people who trek out that are supposed to stop uh poison ivy from penetrating the skin, and maybe that would work here. But man, I mean, I would collect and then you know, maybe they use some sort of fermentation to get the pulp off instead of pulping it by hand.
+
+[59:46] I will look it up. I will look it up uh and tell you, John, because it's I'm kind of curious about it. Oh, it's too late in the season for us to collect ginkgo. Can you imagine if I brought all those ginkgo nuts back to the lab and was stinking up that lab with butyric acid, like smelling like vomity vomit, vomit, vomity vomit. I can't imagine what that would be like.
+
+[1:00:03] I think it's I think there's other stinky stuff in there because it smells worse than just vomit. It's like vomit plus not wash. It's like unwashed vomit. It's like it's like it's like you didn't wash for a week, you spent your first 20 bucks on the cheapest liquor you could get, drank it and then puked it on yourself, and then just fell asleep dozing in the hot sun. That's what it smells like to me.
+
+[1:00:21] Anyway, uh we'll look it up and we'll get back to you cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org.
+
+[1:00:54] Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Kane Vineyard and Winery, a Napa Valley winery committed to respecting the soil and dedicated to the creation of three Cabernet blends. For more information, visit Kane5.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:32] This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from Reverse Pizzeria in Bushwig Brooklyn on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from roughly twelve to twelve forty five. Joined as usual in the studio with Nastasha The Hammer. Lopez, how you doing? Good. That pizza's called the Slammer.
+
+[0:46] Really? Mm-hmm. The hammer and the slammer? Yeah. So what's what's on this pizza from Roberto?
+
+[0:50] By the way, we uh today we have to go shoot at uh food and wine. Maybe we'll talk about it later. And so we have to take our lunch during our commercial breaks today. Boohoo. So what's on this pizza, the slammer?
+
+[1:02] It's collard greens and prosciutto, I think. Yeah? Yeah. I don't know. I don't know.
+
+[1:07] Uh Joe, what do we got on this pizza here? I don't think you know. Yeah, I don't know. I'm not a restaurant, I'm not actually working in the restaurant, I just bring the pizza. Yeah, but I know.
+
+[1:17] I don't know. It's my fault. I should have read it more closely. All I saw was greens on top. See uh Roberta's they have these pizzas with greens on them, and Stas and I love the pizzas with greens on 'em, and then whenever we want one, they're like, nah, not today.
+
+[1:28] Yeah. No greens today. I love greens on pizza, by the way. I like 'em when they're when they're uh cooked down as these appear to be. And I like them when they're not cooked down.
+
+[1:36] Yeah, I like 'em. I like them both ways. Mm-hmm. Yeah. It's a good product.
+
+[1:39] Greens on a pizza. Uh didn't mean to put you on the spot there, uh, Joe, how are you doing? I'm doing great, thanks. A little red in the face now. But uh as you said, you don't work at the restaurant, it's not your job to know.
+
+[1:51] I just thought maybe you would had it and you would know you know, you know, taking note of it. I'm gonna start up my own pizza blog for all the cooking issues listeners about all the Roberto's pizzas, maybe someday. Oh, I just stuck the headphone cord and the pizza is such a party foul. Uh so while we're on the topic here, Nastasha You said to bring it up. Okay, all right, we can do it.
+
+[2:11] Yeah, so uh Nastash Nastasha and I have a uh uh an ongoing kind of feud battle. Accurate? Yeah. Yeah. So, you know, I One of many.
+
+[2:20] Well well, one of many, but one we're willing to share. And so uh, you know, uh some of you may know, I have uh two kids and a wife, right? And uh so you know, I've kind of been through this whole scenario in New York, by the way. And not so easy being uh a mom in New York if you want to like go outside. You know, it's you can't like lock yourself away in your uh in your tiny apartment all day, you go freaking bananas.
+
+[2:45] And so I am not in the least bothered by uh any sort of public display of feeding your babies if you get my drift. Breastfeeding. Yes, breastfeeding the babies. And Stas here uh is uh is bothered by it. You want to talk about that?
+
+[2:59] Well, it's just that Roberta's especially is uh a breeding ground for these women who take their entire breast out and don't cover it up. But just don't look at it. I don't know. Just don't look why. It's so easy just not to look at people.
+
+[3:12] Like, why don't you just cover it with like a nice thing? They make stuff like that. You could get a nice scarf to put over like you know, like why do you need to show it? I just don't think that there's not that it's not about you. You see, you see you're you're looking at it like it's about you.
+
+[3:26] No. If you're eating in a restaurant and a woman has her breast out, it's it's always at Roberta's. It's you have pizza in front of you, you have cheeses, you have, you know. What the heck does the pizza and the cheese have to do with it? Oh my goodness.
+
+[3:40] And then there's the lady next to you with her breast out. Uh Joe, you want to weigh in on this? Yeah, Joe, what do you think? Um I see it from I see it from both ways. I my thought is that Yeah, you can just avert your eyes, but as soon as you started going about the cheese, I don't know.
+
+[3:58] That was a little much for me. Well, that's just because she's got a demented mind. Like she makes connections that don't exist. I want I want writers or callers or listeners or whatever to weigh in on it. Hey, you know what I want?
+
+[4:09] I want uh I want mothers to be able to go out and eat whenever they should do it when you know obviously they have to do it when their baby's hungry, but cut like cover it up in a public place. That is painful. If you do not feed when I under I'm not telling them not to, I'm saying cover it up. Cover it up. All right, whatever.
+
+[4:26] I you know, I just I just don't I don't see why it's would you like to let's say that a man had to do it with a different appendage. That is crazy. That is crazy. That is a crazy, crazy, crazy statement. I cannot believe I cannot believe that you have said this on the air.
+
+[4:43] Now I want you people out there. This is a little taste of what it's like. A little bit of a taste. Somebody had to say it. No, no, no.
+
+[4:51] Nobody had to say that. Nobody had to say that. Call in, call in your responses to Nastasha or any other questions, cooking or otherwise. Two 7184972128. That's 7184972128.
+
+[5:03] Longtime listener and supporter of MoFad, by the way. Uh Lucas wrote in uh and uh says that um a long time listener of the show. You know, he was a uh he's now a finance guy, but he used to be involved in super low temperature physics. Cool. Which is kind of interesting.
+
+[5:18] I think he was saying he was uh dealing with uh what do they called? Like um Einstein Einstein kind of what is it uh kind of condensate? Super, super hyper low temperature uh physics. Anyways, so uh he has a deal for us. He says he shot a doe yesterday, you know, the dough a deer female deer.
+
+[5:35] Uh he shot a doe yesterday. He was hunting with a friend. He has half the meat, and we'll be happy to donate some of this in the name of the progress of science in terms of us cooking uh uh game meats low temperature. And I hope it's you know, some point I hope to go hunting too. But yes, please, uh please send us some.
+
+[5:50] He says, unfortunately, the conditions of the deal uh with his friend were that all the awful from the first deer goes to his dogs, which is so weird. Your dog doesn't give a crap. Oh, my dog really only likes the deer that I hunt. My dog will eat any damn thing. You know what he likes the best now?
+
+[6:05] Dehydrate what jackets. Oh shit. Again, again with the nudging. Uh dehydrated uh lamb lung is seems his current favorite thing. You can't go can't get enough dehydrated and bread.
+
+[6:15] Anyway, uh unfortunately the conditions of uh of the deal are that all the awful from the first deer goes to his dogs, but I have all the other cuts. Now, because I'm stupid, I butchered this myself, and since this is my first deer, it looks uh a little better than the first sushi I made, uh, but you know, it's kind of beat up. But certainly edible. Let me know if uh you guys are interested. Regards, Lucas.
+
+[6:33] Yes, we are interested. Wouldn't you like that? Yeah. You like you like deer, right? I don't think I've ever had it.
+
+[6:38] Come on, really? We'll cook the hell out of that, Lucas. Santa was scary. Well, is it frozen? Yeah, like we're pretty much like in a Khole right now.
+
+[6:47] Like uh at home, you know. Well, we'll get into this later, but like, you know, I haven't been able to test any recipes. Um, you know, uh Chris Kohler sent us the uh the tofu book by uh by Nguyen. Thanks so much. We're uh super excited.
+
+[7:02] I was reading through it, and then I realized, hey, you know what? I want to make tofu right now, but guess what? I have no kitchen. I literally moving. I'm moving.
+
+[7:10] Yeah, yeah, I mean, not permanently, but like uh it's because my wife heard my rant about fryers last week. No, I'm kidding. She doesn't listen to the show. Uh but the uh more on that later. But the no, what happened was uh we're moving across the street, and the people who are buying my new apartment, they don't want my you know, commercial fryer, my commercial hood and my commercial range and all that stuff, so I had to rip it out of the wall.
+
+[7:32] The people I don't want to call out who it is, you know. Yeah, they're they are relatives of mine. That's not the point. They don't want the they don't want it. And so uh so I had to rip it out with my bare hands.
+
+[7:42] So now I'm I'm back down to dorm room skills. I got a uh a toaster oven, but I also have a search all. Oh, yeah. So can I see her only something? Can I can I see her most things?
+
+[7:56] What can I see her? Everything. No, stuff stuff. You gotta gotta get into the I know it's gotta get into the Christmas spirit. She's already in the freaking Christmas spirit.
+
+[8:04] It's not even Thanksgiving experience. And she's cracking out the Michael Booblay, like it's like the end of the world is coming with the booblies. Now, yeah, okay, whatever. I encourage it, because whatever. But like I'm saying, like, you know, like we're doing something exciting and you came out like whatever.
+
+[8:19] Whatever. Whatever. Whatever. Again, of course. Now people, now you know.
+
+[8:23] Now you know. A lot of stuff. Now you know. Uh okay. Uh John Stewart wrote in uh two cooking issues uh about a serious eats uh and I couldn't figure out when the serious eats uh post was, but it was uh it was a Kenji Alt uh post.
+
+[8:39] Uh and he says um question one. This is a what it is, is it's I forget what they called it. They called it something. What'd they call it? Like a Turk knuck nuk nut what'd they call it?
+
+[8:48] Like a turk? Yeah. Turk cheddar or something like that. Yeah. It's a it's a rolled turkey, but it's basically a rolled turkey.
+
+[8:54] Turkey breast, rolled with the skin. Uh I can't, I I didn't see the original recipe to see whether he had meat glued it or not. But you know, I've I've been cooking rolled up poultry for since, you know. Actually, you know what? Like, even before I had meat glue, Jacques Papin back in the day used to do uh ballotines of uh chicken that were stuffed with kind of like a uh a dried fruit stuffing.
+
+[9:16] And I used to make those things constantly, like in my twenties. Like that was my go-to. I used to love making that. This is slightly different. I think this meat glued.
+
+[9:25] But Nils, you know, Nils Norrin, for formerly the FCI, good, you know, good friend of mine. Uh he back when he was at Aquavete would turn any meat into a tube. Any, any meat. You hand him a meat, he'd turn it into a tube. He would take, you know, lobsters, turn them into tubes, salmon, tubes, chicken, tube, turduckin, tube, beef, tube.
+
+[9:46] And so, like, and the reason is that Nils liked the tube so much is that it cooks very evenly across it. And so, you know, Nils had a very good uh meat gluing and rolling technique, and it was actually his formation of tubes that caused him to be kind of like oh like like one of the top two. They went back and forth, Wiley and Nils on who was using the most meat glue in New York City way back in the day. Anywho, so you know, after I started cooking with Nils a lot, I too, I too took up the the the tubes of meat uh as a as a thing, and so we used to turn, you know, just tubes constantly. Anywho, so uh that's what we're talking about.
+
+[10:22] So Kenji does a spiced on the inside, rolled up turkey breast with the skin around it that you low temp cook and then deep fry, which is kind of the classical low temp classic bulb. It's it's the low temp way to cook uh a bird like that in the in a simple fashion as opposed to the skeletonized turkey nonsense that we do every once in a while. I don't I can't I I can't do that this year. I don't have a kitchen. Crazy.
+
+[10:45] Sucks. We can't do that at the lab. We're not really set up for that at the lab. No. No.
+
+[10:44] So I was like, please don't do it at the lab. The last time I think I told I told this story of it. The last time I I did a major poultry project at the lab. Actually, we did one yesterday. Yeah.
+
+[10:57] But the time before that, I blew up a pressure cooker and sprayed uh not the way you think. No, no, no. I well, I exploded the safety valve, and it's it's it it was old faithful of chicken grease everywhere. I can picture that as I can smell it and picture it right now. Anyway, uh so the questions.
+
+[11:14] The recipe calls, this is Kenji's recipe, calls for 60 degrees Celsius uh for four to five hours and then deep fry. For most tender cuts like chicken breasts and tenderloins, I think you, you mean me, recommend keeping the time shorter to prevent mushing. It's thoughts on this, and what would you use for the time temperature on a turkey breast? I'll just go through all the questions first and I'll answer them uh, you know, in whatever order my tangents allow me to. Uh question two the recipe calls for slashing the inside of the meat, rubbing with spices, then rolling it and binding it with twine.
+
+[11:42] Would this be a good application for meat glue transglutaminase to bind it together better? If so, how would you otherwise change the technique? Still rub it, still rub in the spices, then dust with T G and roll, or would the spices interfere and or just be weird embedded in the meat? And question three if using transglutaminase, which one would you use? I see R M, G S T I and Y G, oh my.
+
+[12:02] I like that. It's a good rhyme there. Uh available uh from John Stewart. Okay. So uh, or is he didn't he call himself the other John Stewart once?
+
+[12:10] The other John Stewart. Well, you know, since I don't know, again, like I say, since I don't know the the John Stewart that you're referencing is that well, whatever, whatever. You're our John Stewart, John. Anyway, uh, yeah, I would use uh meat glue on this. I mean, obviously you don't have to use meat glue.
+
+[12:22] Um, but then if you don't use meat glue, you don't have to tie it, right? I mean, there you go. Uh, and then you can just roll it in uh make sure you get a you know a uh you know a polyethylene only plastic wrap if you're gonna use uh if you're gonna make the uh rolls with plastic wrap. And they're still on the cooking issues blog in the low temperature section, there's a whole whole pictorial blah blah who's it on how to roll uh I think I do a chicken there and also a salmon, show how to roll it. Um make sure that you use a non-PVC one uh and smell the poly smell your plastic wrap to make sure it doesn't smell all stanky and nasty.
+
+[12:57] But the technique is all there and it's you know fairly simple to do. Uh I would put the uh meat glue, I don't think it really matters as long as you're not coating it with so much spices that the meat can't touch meat, I don't think it's gonna really matter. Uh you can use RM. Uh RM is what I usually use, it's a powder and you sprinkle it on uh because I don't know, Nils would always say he hated the ones that were made into paste because he didn't want to add a lot of water to the inside. But if you have a lot of spices, uh you can use the uh GS, which is a slurry and you paint it on, and you could paint it on, but don't paint too much.
+
+[13:29] I mean that's the problem. You don't want to add a lot of moisture in there, and then sprinkle the spices into the uh into the slurry and then roll it up and you'll be you'll be good to go. Uh and with something like this, you could actually uh you wouldn't even actually actually have to wait for it to set. Normally you would wait for something to set, but as long as you're not cooking too high, four hours or so or overnight, as long as you're uh cooking down here in the 60 degrees Celsius range, you could very easily uh just heat set it, put it in the bath, and as it cooks through, it will set. It won't be as strong as it would be if you let it set in the fridge overnight, but it'll be strong enough for the application that you have here, and then you won't have any twine marks around it, right?
+
+[14:04] So that takes care of questions two and three, right? Now, as to question one. Alright, look. I'm sure Kenji has access to all the same programs and databases that you know that I have. And so his four to five cooking uh four to five hour cooking time at 60 degrees is probably based on what looked to be uh roughly four-inch uh diameter cylinder, right?
+
+[14:28] Uh and so the the issue is is that he is trying to get up to the actual temperature 60 in the center uh of a four-inch diameter tube, and that does take uh four to five hours. However, right, if you look at his recipe, so I'll say I'll give you the recipe here for those of you that are interested. You can just look it up. I mean, you know, serious heats, it's right there. But uh preheat sous-vide water bath to 140 Fahrenheit, that's 60 for you folks who cook in Celsius land.
+
+[14:55] Uh add a turkey and cook for four to five hours. Remove and run under a cool uh running water or transfer to an ice bath to chill for five minutes. That's again old standard technique we used to do to not overcook the the meats. Uh remove from a bag and and add any congealed juices to the gravy, rinse carefully and thoroughly pat dry with paper towels, trim ends for a more cylindrical shape if desired, although I would trim after you fry, after you fry, unless there's a lot of skin on the outside. Heat oil to 400 degrees.
+
+[15:19] Uh it's hot in a large walk or Dutch oven. Do not fill more than one third of the way in order to allow for bubbling and displacement. He's overheating the oil here because he's gonna get a large temperature drop as he puts it in. Um carefully slide the turkey into the oil using spatula and tongs. It will not be fully submerged.
+
+[15:33] Cover and cook, uh shaking the pan occasionally until the sputtering dies a bit. I would just ladle over the top or roll it in the thing instead of having to like uh I mean, I don't know, whatever. But that this is just these are just semantics, you know, choice of cook. Anyway, uh about two minutes, adjust the flame to a consistent 350, and then using a large metal ladle, spoon the hot oil. There you go, over the exposed portions of the roast continuously until the bottom half is cooked and crisp, about five minutes.
+
+[15:56] Carefully flip and cook on the second side, basting the whole time. So I guess he's covering it to get the temperature of the oil up faster by not having as much steam escape. That must be what he's doing here. But you're looking at a total cook time of seven minutes at 350 degrees. And that is going to push the internal temperature of that.
+
+[16:13] It's going to make a nice crispy skin, but it's going to push the interior temperature of the bird uh up considerably, which is why he's only cooking to 140 degrees. Now, 140 degrees is too dangerous, it's cooked properly, but 140 degrees, 60 degrees Celsius is too dang low for 99% of the people who are going to eat turkey breast. It's still going to have some of that weird translucent y kind of hue to it. And you wouldn't want to eat that, would you, Steph? No.
+
+[16:40] No. Like the minimum you want to cook a turkey breast to in the real world in real life is about 63 degrees. Or even some people prefer 64. Dark meats, you're looking at like 65 is the lowest, really, 66. Some people prefer.
+
+[16:56] If you do low temperature cooking and you're careful and you've brined it, you can cook the white meat up that high, but you know, whatever. These are the general numbers of what you want to cook turkey to. Now, in my opinion, uh turkey meat that is cooked for longer than about two hours low temperature. Uh, it's not that it goes bad, it's that it gets what I think it the texture is not as good if if you taste it side by side with meat that was cooked to the same temperature at a shorter period of time. When you bite into it, it has a little bit of stringiness, mushiness, it releases its water in in a way that uh uh I don't find as pleasant as I find ones that haven't been cooked for as long.
+
+[17:33] Now, some people like that texture, because we've done a bunch of side-by-side uh taste tests back when I was, you know, teaching low temperature cooking back at the FCI. But it's just not it's just not uh what what I like. What I would do, and and if you were to get one of these things like Sous Vash or uh you know Polyscien's Sous V dashboard, whatever it's called now, one of these programs that allows you to check it, if you were to just increase the temperature of the cooking water by a mere three degrees, you would chop the time down to uh around under three hours. If you were to then reduce the cylinder size from four inches to three inches, you'd chop it down to like two and two and a fraction uh hours to get it cooked up to this temperature in the center, right? And that it seems to me is uh a good way to do it.
+
+[18:17] What I would do is do that and then ramp down the cooking temperature aggressively or put it in ice water a little bit longer so that you're not going to get an overcook when you put it in into the fryer. It's gonna be easier to drop that temperature a couple of degrees uh than it is to raise it without overcooking. Does that make sense to us? Because anyway, so that's what I would do. I would cook it to a higher temperature and then drop it harder and then and then fry it without overcooking it.
+
+[18:42] And I think that's gonna be uh better. It's especially you want to make it for a quick crust development. So I wouldn't actually cool it in the bag or in the um I mean I wouldn't cool it in ice water in the bag. What I would do is cool it down to I would drop the temperature aggressively to like 50 or 52, pull it out hot and let the steam flash off of the uh the the moisture flash off of the uh the bird, maybe even hit it with a with a fan or a hairdryer to put a pellicle on the outside. Do not use a used hairdryer on uh on food, by the way, because you'll notice that it throws little pieces of burnt hair.
+
+[19:16] What happens when people are blow drying their hair is uh hair particles get sucked into the intake, and then uh some of them make it in and then they get kind of slightly incinerated, and then when you when you fire it again, occasionally it will fire out these little bits of half-burnt hair particle crap. That's how women get split in. What? Over blow drying the hair. I hate blow dryers.
+
+[19:36] Uh, in terms of I like I like they should just call them like you know, kind of food food dryers. They're awesome at that, like French fries and everything. But like people try to put a blow dryer on my head, I'm like, what the hell are you doing? My hair will dry. My hair will dry.
+
+[19:48] Like, I'm not gonna get a cold going outside. Uh like, do not blow dry my hair. Yep. Do you use blow dryer? Nope.
+
+[19:54] That's one of the reasons I like you stuff. No offense to all you blow dry people out there. They smell bad. They smell like burnt hair. Yeah, I guess for that reason.
+
+[20:01] Yeah, I mean, like, you know, you're with me, right? Blow dryer, no good, right? No way. No, good on food though. They're good for that.
+
+[20:07] That's good to know. But don't use a used one. Anyway, so uh that's what I I had something else to add to this, but I forget what it is. Uh, who knows? Uh I'll think of it.
+
+[20:16] I'll think of it somewhere. You want to go to a break? Yeah. Alright, we'll go to a commercial break, come right back with cooking issues. This is Chris Howell from Kane Vineyard and Winery.
+
+[20:57] Calling in from Spring Mountain above the Napa Valley. Thank you for listening to this show. In our industrial world of highly processed food and wine, we support the values of Heritage Radio Network. All of us at Cain encourage you to seek out individuality and beauty in everything you eat and drink. To learn more about us, go to Kanefine.com.
+
+[21:46] And we're back. Calling your questions to 7184972128. That's 718497 2128. You want to you know I'm uh one of the reasons why I'm a bad person? Why?
+
+[21:56] Everyone else loves it. I hate Napa. I hate it. Napa Napa Valley. Oh, so do I.
+
+[22:01] Yeah. Yeah. I hate it. I mean, look, I like the people. I like the wineries.
+
+[22:05] I like wine. But just that beating freaking sun. You know what I mean? Yeah. What do you hate about it?
+
+[22:14] I don't like it. Stas went to school at Stanford, so you know, so she's probably exposed to it more than I am. Yeah, I don't like their they're really like clean, clean vineyards, you know, like very lines. I don't know how to explain it. Yeah.
+
+[22:27] I like the wine though. I like the wine. I don't know. It's also like so expensive over there, right? What the hell are we talking?
+
+[22:33] We live in New York. Please. Anyway, now I'm gonna get someone to be like, if you hate Napa, I hate you. What are you gonna do? I gotta be honest sometimes.
+
+[22:41] You know what I'm saying? Gotta be honest sometimes. At Clef's wrote in uh on uh the Twitter said, uh cooking issues, any advice or techniques for roasting raw peanuts uh to then be milled into peanut butter uh and uh with temperatures and stuff. Well, okay. So the thing about peanuts, the thing about peanuts.
+
+[22:59] This is another one of this one of those uh D nuts questions. I love like anytime like I wish every week we would have some sort of like nut-related uh question, right? Yeah, nuts. Okay. Uh with and you know what?
+
+[23:15] Like, that's probably the best one of the best songs. That's not like there's some make good songs on that album, but Stas, you're not a big fan of that whole genre. No. Even though you're from that area. Yeah.
+
+[23:23] Is that why you don't like it? No, I just don't like it. Just don't like it. Not my kind of music. None of none of those, none of them?
+
+[23:29] No Dre, no Snoop, no, nothing. You're not but you're also not an East Coast rap person either. I don't like rap. Wow. Yeah.
+
+[23:36] Wow. I don't know how the heck we hang out. Okay. Uh so the issue with uh making peanut butter is you're gonna want a fairly high oil um nut. Right?
+
+[23:46] So that leaves out the absolute uh royalty of peanuts, God's peanut, which is the Virginia peanut, which is a variety. And I've said this before on the show. If you have not gone out and purchased high-quality roasted, salted, please get the salted. Please, for God's sakes, get the salted. Salted.
+
+[24:04] Don't get any flavors on it, though. These guys who make these Virginia peanuts, a lot of them they make all these ones with flavors because they think that you need to flavor it. But Virginia peanut, the texture of a Virginia peanut and the size and the way it explodes in your mouth when you bite it, does not require any sort of crazy flavoring. It requires simply salt and your mouth to eat and uh and a fist to shovel them into your face, because that's what you're gonna want to do with them. But Virginia peanut, uh, even though it is the best possible peanut that I've ever had.
+
+[24:32] Like by far, like so far and away above any other uh variety. It's a variety. They can be grown elsewhere other than uh Virginia, but they're just called Virginia Peanuts, and you know, that's where I get where I get most of them. I don't know where most of them are grown. But it just I mean, below blows the rest.
+
+[24:44] They cost more and they're worth it. You're gonna here's what's gonna happen. You're gonna go on the I hope you're gonna go on the internets. I feel like you've talked about it. I have, but like, but some people they don't know.
+
+[24:55] They don't know. Go on the internets, you're gonna look at it, and you're gonna say, why the hell does this peanut cost so much? And then you're gonna get it and you're gonna say, It's oh. That's gonna be it, right? That's what I did.
+
+[25:05] Oh, okay. So anyway, so don't get those for uh peanut butter because that's a waste anyway, of the amazing texture. And the Virginia uh peanut, I think doesn't have its kind of a high oil um content. Uh, if you're gonna want uh something higher, like a Spanish peanut or something like that in oil, uh, I would recommend roasting it. You if you're gonna make peanut butter, you can put the salt in later, so it's not uh not a problem.
+
+[25:25] Um but everyone seems to say to roast it at 350 Fahrenheit, which oh man, I should have converted that to Celsius because uh at Clefs is in uh Japan, I think. Anyway, um should uh for like 15 or 20 minutes. Um as opposed to in the shell, the you know, the peanut board and all that recommends going for 30 to 35 minutes at the same temperature 350. However, they don't tell you the real secret of roasting a peanut in shell. This doesn't apply at Cless for peanut butter.
+
+[25:52] Oh, and by the way, if you have a uh a peanut that doesn't have as much oil, it's a simple matter when you're grinding uh nut butters to add a little bit of oil to it. And we used to do it all the time when we were doing, for instance, we would get um uh California almonds, and no offense, because I've had some good ones. Wyeth, you know, uh from labor, his his uh grandpa's an almond farmer, and he got some really good good nuts, good nuts. But the thing is that majority of the California almonds that you get are some variety that has a very low oil content, because I guess they think that's what Americans want. Like as opposed to marconas where you can see the freaking like oil on them.
+
+[26:26] So delicious. But they so that those nuts that the uh, you know, the average nuts? Those and uh that's the uh the average California uh almond there uh is almost worthless to make uh butters out of because it has so l low oil unless you add back a lot. Even pecans, which are fairly high oil, we would have to add some oil. Remember that when we were making all that stuff, we'd have to add some back to it.
+
+[26:46] We would save a little bit of the last batch and make it kind of like a trying to get a perpetual motion nut machine out of it. And we used to pre-grind it and then put it in a santa to get a really which is you know a melee kind of take, oh you know, or idly idly, uh, you know, like a doll idly thing. Anyway, from uh from uh uh India. And uh we used to get really good, really, really good textured nut butters, and then we would spin them in the center fuse and get even better awesome textured uh nut butters. Uh we used to roast them all uh beforehand.
+
+[27:12] But anyway, so but none of that uh is gonna help you if you want to put salt uh uh like do you like eating peanuts in the shell? I don't like nuts so much. I don't like peanuts. Oh my freaking God. What about you guys in the engineering booth over there?
+
+[27:28] Are you a fan of the uh shell the in shell peanut? Oh definitely. Yeah, baseball style, you know, out there shelling it in the n the freaking nutshells are everywhere. I like anything where you're supposed to make a mess and there's chaff everywhere, right? Yeah.
+
+[27:41] Yeah. But you I don't like when people eat the peanuts on the subway like that, though. No, no, they should be shot in the face. Yeah, right. I I don't mean they could a lot of violent things.
+
+[27:48] I shouldn't say that. Uh that's a a turn of phrase I use, not on the air typically. But what I mean is is they're bad people. They're not b bad. They're just they're they're rude.
+
+[27:55] They're not thoughtful people. I take that back. What I said, that's not right. Anyway, but my point is is that you should not I don't like people eating any freaking thing on the subway at all. No.
+
+[28:05] I don't want to see people. I mean, look, if you need to take a sip of water, no problem. But I don't want like, I don't know, I don't want a baby that needs to breastfeed. You know what, Stas? You're such a freak.
+
+[28:16] See what I'm saying, people? Anyways, my point is I don't like I don't like to I don't like, you know what I really hate? I hate the I hate like the like the takeout food container open in the subway and the entire subway smells like this. So gross. Yeah, it's always like the high like vinegar sauces and stuff.
+
+[28:34] You can smell the fried goods, you can smell all over the thing or like subway sandwiches, I see that a lot. They're freaking messy. They're messy people. Anyways. Uh just don't do it.
+
+[28:45] Right, Joe? Just don't do it. No way. How do we even get it? Oh, wait.
+
+[28:48] Wait five minutes. Yeah, wait. But when you're when you're outside or sitting at a picnic bench outside, like like the the peanuts in the shell. Anyway, the worst though is when someone hands you one and they're not salted. Don't you hate that?
+
+[29:00] Hate that. Yeah. Want salt on those sucker flames. Yeah, definitely. So here's how you do it.
+
+[29:05] If you want to salt the nuts uh before you roast them, uh the simple kind of bone-headed way without technology is to just soak it in a salt brine for uh a long time and then you know rinse them off a little bit and roast them, right? That'll work. But oh sorry, dehydrate first uh below roasting temperature because if you don't get the moisture back out before you roast it, uh you're not gonna be able to get all the moisture out before it gets too brown, right? So you need to take them back down to a normal kind of ambient moisture content at a low non-roasting temperature. Either in a dehydrator or on a super low oven with the with the lid with the door open with a with a towel, you know how you do if you don't have a dehydrator, and let them really dry out before you roast it proper at like 350.
+
+[29:46] But the baller, really bitty biddly, biddly baller way to do it, is to throw the peanuts and a brine and whatever other flavors you want into your vacuum machine and do rapid infusion into the peanuts, and you can infuse them almost instantly. So you don't have to wait for the stuff to soak through like you would with a normal brine that we have to wait hours for the for the brine to make it through. So then you could do you can make your brine, uh suck a huge vacuum, uh let the air back in, boosh, the brine will be pushed into the peanut, dehydrate uh you know in a low oven until you break one open field, make sure it's dehydrated, and then roast it off and you're good. Uh oh, we have a caller. Caller, you're on the air.
+
+[30:24] Mr. Dave Arnold. Howdy. Hey. Doing well.
+
+[30:30] How's uh how's it down in Miami land? Uh it's a balmy 81 degrees. Nice, nice. What's up? Uh just called the chat.
+
+[30:40] Nice. When can I get my hands on one of those Sears all, sir? Well, so we are still making them by hand in the basement uh of uh the lab at 54 Eldritch. So right now teeny teeny little elves with with glasses and tweezers are assembling them as we see. Uh I like to think of Piper as an elves with glasses and tweezers.
+
+[31:02] But yeah, so literally that's what we're that's what we're doing. So right now we're we right now we we only have a couple, we only have a couple that we're using for shooting because we're we're doing the we're finishing the Kickstarter shoot on Thursday, and it's gonna go up on uh on Black Friday. Black Friday. But uh Mr. Bullfrog, you are definitely on the list.
+
+[31:23] You are on the So what you're s what you're saying is I have to send Santa Claus a letter and proclaim my love for for all things that heat stuff up very hot. Yes, yes, yes, that's true. Uh and no, and also like the well, here's a a good question. So um, technically, in a food truck, you're allowed to have the the uh handheld propane tanks? Technically.
+
+[31:43] Is are you asking me or are you telling me 'cause I sure as hell don't know. I was asking. Yeah, I was asking. Uh uh you know, I don't know. But the um yeah, so we're what Sas what when are we looking at delivery on this thing?
+
+[31:54] April. We're gonna try to get April? Yeah. So we're the Kickstarter'll be over right around the Christmas time and then we're looking for hopefully and really that soon, huh? Wow, we're gonna be busy.
+
+[32:05] Uh but the ones that we make now, you know, the proto ones are literally they're all welded by hand in the basement and so they're uh a s what's the what's the the PC term now? Budget. Their budget. Um the not the materials, just the you know the workmanship. Uh and that but we're gonna get them actually made, you know, for real in um we don't know where.
+
+[32:25] We're we're we have a couple factories we're looking at, but uh we're gonna get them made for we use for so for what you're saying is for real for real they're being made in China in some basement by teeny little Chinese elves. Uh yeah could possibly be made uh in India by small Indian elves as well. It's not sure because both both China I mean India for many years was kind of the stainless it really issue is is that you know I we can get fairly competitive price on like the high the high tech stuff like the like the insulation and the and the um and the mesh that we use but um stainless fabrication is just com you're completely priced out of existence in uh in the US for this kind of a thing. And so we're you know that's the kind of stuff that traditionally you would get a lot and like a lot of the barware is made in India but over the past decade or so China has really uh kind of rocketed forward uh to challenge and I think they've superseded India in terms of their stainless manufacturing, at least in terms of what's imported into the US and the cookware department. So it's it's a question of which which one um you're gonna go to, but it's just phenomenally you know, the tooling costs and everything are phenomenally expensive, and since we don't know that we can make enough of them to afford the initial kill on the uh the initial uh cost on the tooling for a US operation on that, we just don't know if we can do it.
+
+[33:44] We're looking to hopefully assemble here though. It's just gonna go bonkers. I mean you're gonna put that thing up and it's just gonna exceed anything that I think you ever could have imagined, you know? Well, from your lips to God's ears, brother. From your lips to God's ears.
+
+[33:57] But don't worry, you if you want look, look, you know, you Jeremiah ol old friend of uh before like old friend of the the bl back in the blog days, uh, you know, at the French Culinary Institute. So, you know I I believe I I believe I scald with with you guys uh up in the lab at one point. You did, and also uh if you remember you were the one that made us test out whether or not agave syrup was indeed uh did indeed make a difference in uh margaritas. Uh yeah, I I secretly just wanted to drink margaritas that day. I was a little hungover and I was like, let me just throw this out there.
+
+[34:31] Well I'll be drinking margaritas. It's gonna just, you know, it's gonna turn this class up a notch. Yeah, it's true. Did I ever tell you that I found out that figured out the science behind uh why they're so different? Um I believe we were having cocktails uh during ICC and um you you did um you did lay that theory on and uh I'm gonna touch it out on my own.
+
+[34:52] I I'm I'm a big margarita fan. Yeah. Well the I'll do I'll do my own research and we'll we'll compare notes. Alright, well I'll tell I'll tell you what I think, just for the benefit of the folks out there. The uh agave is extremely high in fructose.
+
+[35:05] And uh fructose is interesting as opposed to sucrose in that its sweetness hits you right away and then leaves very quickly. Uh so um what if you use agave uh you're using something that's very high in fructose. So when you drink the margarita, you get a real uh hit of sweet right away, but it doesn't linger, whereas the lime lingers. So you're not left with a cloying sweetness, you're left with this kind of lingering lime flavor in the margarita. There's still some backbone of sucrose there from the uh quantro, but like the initial kapow hit of the uh of the sugar that you've added is in a fructose form, which uh seems what we thought seemed to work well in uh the margaritas back in the day.
+
+[35:46] That's my theory. Welcome to it. All right. All right, well, you're on the list. We'll we'll be telling you when you get it.
+
+[35:57] And um, after the show, just eat that for me. So I feel like I'm part of the crew. Uh we well, I'll tell you what, we're going to do a food and wine shoot, but next week I will I will you will be an official in absentia uh crew member here, and we will order a margarita pizza. I'll pound it for you. Thank you, sir.
+
+[36:12] All right, brother. Bye. Take care, guys. Thank you. All right, cool.
+
+[36:17] Talk to you soon. All right, now, what are we talking about? I don't know who the hell knows what I'm talking about. Alex wrote in uh last week about fryers, and I gave a long spiel about how uh you know they might void the the insurance in your house and that they they could have safety issues and go. And apparently, uh I mean I don't frankly I don't frighten myself.
+
+[36:38] You convinced yourself, yeah. I mean I'd already purchased my new deep fryer for my you know my house because but look, but like it's kind of like who I am. It's like, you know, like that's, you know, whatever. Anyway, so here's what he wrote back. Hello, Dave.
+
+[36:50] So last week you answered my email about fryers, and my wife skipped past your comment that a fryer is a good idea for cooking. Shouldn't skip that part, you know what I mean? Uh, and leaped on the burning down the house prospects. Valid point. Your wife has valid point.
+
+[36:59] Uh so a large deep fryer in the home no longer appears to be a viable option. As I've never seen a countertop deep fryer with recovery times useful for frying, it looks like I'm back to stockpots and Dutch ovens. While the thermal mass of cast iron is appealing, I've seen some sources online that iron will react with the oil, degrading the quality or imparting off flavors. Is there any truth to this? Yes.
+
+[37:20] Also, what is the chemistry uh beyond oxidation going on in the fry oil that makes it break down and turn? Alex, okay, look. Uh before I before I get into it, let me uh let me just say uh I looked around and there is I forget whether or not you said you lived in an apartment or you live in a house, right? Because what uh one of the things I've always maintained is that if you live in a house with an outdoor space, like that's where you should put your fryer, right? And there's a company uh from Homer, Louisiana.
+
+[37:52] These guys are crazy. They're crazy. They're called R and V, R and V, like R V, like recreational vehicle, but not recreational vehicle, like R and Ampersand V works uh in Homer, Louisiana. Their website is Cajun Fryer.com. So you already know it's gonna be good.
+
+[38:06] Their website, website like Cajun Fryer, how could that be bad? And uh these guys sell, it's intended for home, right? Which means it's not gonna avoid your your homeowner's warranty because it's intended for home. A real, honest to God, uh outdoor, so it's got a cover on it, uh propane fired tube uh uh deep fryer with a cold zone. It's freaking nuts.
+
+[38:31] It's awesome. It's not even that expensive compared to other commercial stuff, and it's meant for home. So you're good to go. You just have to fire it up, not inside. It's not meant to go inside.
+
+[38:41] These guys also have some insane uh grills. They also make a like crazy pressure smoker that looks like a giant autoclave and uses like berbelline percolated water. I don't think the pressure's that high. I I couldn't figure out from their documentation because they don't tell you how high the pressure is, uh how high it is. And I could have calculated if I knew exactly the height of the water that they're pushing through to generate the pressure, but I couldn't.
+
+[39:00] Hey, whatever, I couldn't do it. But those guys are genuine uh nut jobs making those fryers, and so I I would go to them. Another thing I should tell you is that um I also forget whether or not you said that you you're good with building things or not. Do you remember? I don't remember stuff.
+
+[39:16] I don't remember. Um what you can do is um what you can do is build your own fryer. And I I've done this. So what you here's some here's some basic basic math for you. My fryer, uh, or the one I just threw it out, but the fryer that I had and the fryer that I'm gonna get approximately 90,000 BTUs for about um five gallons of oil, about 35, 40 pounds of oil.
+
+[39:44] Uh and what that means is you're looking at around 18,000 uh BTUs per uh gallon, and that equals about 5.2 kilowatts. That is a freaking lot. Out of a, and you know, as you rightly say, home fryers, they don't have really the ability to heat that much because you're looking at roughly 1500 watts max, 1.5 kilowatts. If you have a 220 circuit, then you can uh you could probably boost that to about three kilowatts. Now you're getting close to the amount of power you need to heat a full gallon of oil.
+
+[40:16] So here's what you could do if you're handy. You could buy a temperature controller, buy two, right? You want uh you don't need PID, you don't want PID. You want what's called a bang bang controller. Something that turns the heater on and then turns the heater off when you're done.
+
+[40:29] Okay. Strap uh one of the uh strap a control uh bulb or a uh uh uh sorry thermocouple directly to a heating arm. Oh, go on uh McMaster.com and get the longest, you're gonna need 220 for this, not 110, 220. Get the longest uh bendable immersion heater that you can get uh at the highest uh power that your 220 circuit can deliver, right? Now you want to bend, you gotta get a pot, you want a pot that's tall, fairly tall uh for its uh for its size, right?
+
+[41:01] And then you're gonna put a uh a grate, a rack in it. You're gonna want to bend uh like special legs for the rack so that the rack sits fairly high in the pot, right? Below that's gonna be your cold zone, right? And then uh, you know, a couple inches, give yourself. Then you're gonna rest the tube heater, the longest one you can do, you bend it into uh something that fits into the pan.
+
+[41:22] The reason why you want it long is you want the longest surface, the biggest surface area possible. If you really have skills, you can put fins on it, but don't worry about it. Bend it up out. You have a thermocouple that measures the oil temperature, and then a safety one strapped onto it to shut the thing off. Um make sure it's bang bang.
+
+[41:39] As soon as the oil the temperature drops, you want it to go on full force. You don't want any PID action because it's gonna slow down your recovery rate. Then you can do things like measure before you start frying with it, how you've got to be careful. If you're if you're worried about electrocuting yourself, don't do this. I mean, this is not safe.
+
+[41:53] This is just something you can do at home. Anyways, uh I've done it before, and you can make a relatively decent uh deep fryer if you have with a cold zone, if you have uh if you're handy, if you're not worried about things, and well, of course you are though, because if your wife doesn't want you to have defryer, she probably also doesn't want you to be bending tubular immersion heaters and uh and hooking them up on your stuff. But whatever, it's a good project. What do you stash is style is shaking your head and saying that I'm a jerk? Okay, uh back on to uh the pots.
+
+[42:21] Um the in if you have dings in the enamel, you're gonna have some iron. Iron is reactive, it's not nearly as bad as copper, copper is like the ultimate enemy. I mean, if you think about it, what happens uh old commercial deep fryers were uh regular steel and not stainless, and you would get a layer of polymerized oil on the steel that would just never go away, and then that would um that would kind of protect it from further degradation. But in general, you're gonna want to go stainless. Enamel should work fine.
+
+[42:48] Uh you don't really care about how much heat it's gonna build up because you're using the thermal mass of the oil, you're not really storing so much energy in the cast iron. So I wouldn't worry about that um too much. So I would also recommend going online, it's a little bit outdated, and getting a PDF copy of the Egan Press, which is put out by the American Association of Serial Chemists uh fats and oils books. It's extremely readable, and they have a whole section on uh deep frying. So uh you know basically from them, what's going on is uh hydrolysis in the fat oil, so water is coming out of the fat oil, and the water, especially at those high temperatures, is uh is causing breakdown of the fat into free fatty acids, uh, you know, which are you know then cause oil breakdown.
+
+[43:32] Uh and so you know, hydrolysis from water is one of your enemies, oxidation uh is one of your uh enemies, and this stuff's accelerated at higher all the stuff's accelerated at higher temperature. Polymerization of the oil molecules is another uh enemy, and then also as you fry more, especially at higher temperatures on a pan, you're gonna have food particles falling to uh in a pot rather, you're gonna have food particles falling to the bottom. Since you are supplying the heat from the bottom, the hottest part of the oil is exactly where you don't want it to be, where all the settled crap is and so uh typically what happens is is you'll get very fast oil breakdown. You also because you don't have a high enough power to uh recover fast enough your oil you're gonna be constantly overheating it and the even minimal overheating of oil is incredibly bad for um for the life and the taste of the oil that you're using for frying. So you know that that's just kind of a a general range of kind of what's going on and how you're getting uh shafted.
+
+[44:31] Uh like I said please like I said uh the best way around uh you know the best way to help yourself even in a home frying situation is to go to a commercial supplier go to someone who supplies restaurants and get commercial grade frying oil where they've added uh they've added antioxidants to it they've removed um the fatty acid components that are the most likely to degrade quickly and they also um they sometimes add anti-foaming agents which also prevent the oil from breaking down and so though that professional fry oil is so much better than this than the stuff you can get at the supermarket that uh that that Stas and I have considered actually just buying a bunch of it and selling it to people like like we know what we're doing because it's so much better. You have to buy it in uh five gallon increments. So if you're using it you know relatively quickly stored away from light uh it shouldn't be a problem. They come in plastic cube, they come in like square cardboard. Everyone's seen these on the street when you pass a uh like a like a fry joint, you know, like or you know, whatever, a place that uses a lot of fryers.
+
+[45:40] You'll see them on the on the curb there there. There's those cardboard cubes with the with the plastic cube taner in the middle of them. And uh that stuff's just fantastic. So if you get a hold of that, you're gonna your fry game's gonna go up uh immensely uh right away. What do you think, Stuzz?
+
+[45:55] Yeah. You shall say, I don't care. I don't care. She's watching two more babies. She just says, Oh, Sto's is thinking about the breastfeeding.
+
+[46:02] And and people, I want you to know this lady has a scarf over the baby's face. So Nastasha needs to step back. But uh the uh the uh so we're uh today, by the way, I'll just say this as we're going out. Today we uh we're gonna go to the food and wine and we're doing a Thanksgiving shoot with the Searz all, right? Mm-hmm.
+
+[46:20] We're gonna do some sort of fancy tech uh I won't I guess I'm not supposed to spoil it, right? But it's a similar technique to the one that I did back in the day for the uh hamburger with the exploding ketchup in the middle. Remember that with the shot where it's like gabling uh for eater way back in the day. But I'll give a little bit of a secret. What we did is we made Parker House rolls that are filled with stuffing.
+
+[46:40] So it's just a thin layer of Parker House roll with stuffing on the inside. Those are pretty good, right, Sas? Yeah, they were really good. They were good. And remember, oh, did we get another Thanksgiving question I didn't get?
+
+[46:48] Oh, I looked up the turkey. The one that Piper gave you last night. Yeah. So we had a question last week about using hydrogen peroxide, uh H2O2, to disinfect the turkey that was being cooked at low temperature from uh it was uh based on a blog post by uh Simon Quellen Field. And uh I looked it up and the guy coats his entire turkey with baky bacon, by the way.
+
+[47:08] Entire freaking turkey is like uh is like uh you know like a pie is like a lattice. Yep. This is like a lattice of bacon. Uh-huh. Uh and it's extremely low temperature.
+
+[47:16] He put in the H2O two. I was not able to find uh find any references to whether or not that would affect the flavor of the meat in any way. It's used in water uh and it presumably it'll all, you know, it'll react and you won't get it, but I don't know whether the uh like the extreme oxidation reactions are gonna do anything to the flavor of the skin or anything like that. I wasn't able to find any references. And since I don't have a kitchen, I wasn't able to just soak a piece of chicken or something in H2O2 and then cook it off and see whether there's any residual effects.
+
+[47:44] But rest assured, we will try this uh at uh at some point. I feel like we got one more question in Stas. Do we have we have a couple seconds? Wait, well. We have one in from at Raider Nicole.
+
+[47:55] That was the one. Cooking issues. How do you prevent warmed over flavors and reheated chicken? Uh and then it's just as marinade baked or pan-fried as questions. Uh what you do is is store uh store the product uh away from oxygen.
+
+[48:08] It's uh it's oxidation, uh it's oxidative rancidia that's causing the warmed over flavors. So you can reheat uh gently in uh in zippies, ziplocks that you uh have gotten all the oxygen out of uh and then just hit it with high heat to crisp off or do do whatever you want. But you're the enemy there is storing it, allowing it to cool and rest uh in um in uh contact with uh oxygen in the air. And remember to get your Thanksgiving questions in because next week is last cooking issues before Thanksgiving. Cooking issues.
+
+[48:52] Thanks for listening to this program on heritage radio network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization.
+
+[49:17] To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Hearst Ranch, the nation's largest single source supplier of free range, all natural, grass-fed and grass-finished beef. For more information, visit HearstRanch.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit HeritageRadio Network.org for thousands more. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:30] This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from Robert's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn. Happy Thanksgiving episode. Join in the studio today with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez and Piper from Booker and Dax Lab. How you guys doing? Good.
+
+[0:42] Good. Yeah, we got Joe over in the uh engineering booth. Joe, how are you uh how are you doing? I'm doing well. What are you gonna do for the Thanksgiving?
+
+[0:48] Oh, I'm just gonna go back to Baltimore to visit the family. Nice, quiet Thanksgiving. Yeah? Yeah, I'm excited though. You say that's your excited voice?
+
+[0:58] I'm excited though, yeah. Just like that. Yeah, yeah. Alright, nice, nice. And uh uh Piper, you're doing what?
+
+[1:03] What are you doing? You're gonna go to Vermont? Vermont. Yeah? Yeah.
+
+[1:06] I've heard that they have no internet and telephone in Vermont, is that true? No. No paved roads either. No, no? No.
+
+[1:12] You gotta go to New Hampshire for paved roads? Oh. Yeah. Yeah, for those of you that uh you know haven't tuned in before, and Piper's on uh, you know, they got a kind of a uh hate hate thing going on between uh Vermont and uh New Hampshire. What's the only thing that they can uh agree on there?
+
+[1:28] Maine. Yeah, and and what about Maine? It's a dark wilderness. I actually like Maine quite a quite a lot. I I I enjoyed Maine.
+
+[1:37] But uh I don't come from up there, so I don't have to worry about it. Stas, uh, what are you gonna do? Parents are here. Oh, wow. We'll just leave it at that.
+
+[1:44] Parents are here. They rented a house where? Uh near New Haven. And who's gonna make the turkey? Mother.
+
+[1:51] And how is your mom's turkey? I'm not gonna talk about it every year. I'm not gonna talk about it. It's great. What do you what's it the lie?
+
+[1:58] Everyone knows, everyone knows it, dude. It's a little dry. Yes. A little dry. What's my next band name?
+
+[2:06] A little dry. Uh calling your questions. Two 7184972128. That's 7184972128. I'm actually going to a uh a potluck family Thanksgiving thing.
+
+[2:18] So I have no idea what the food will be like at all. But I do know one thing. I am driving there and driving home again from it, which means I will not be having any wine at Thanksgiving. That sucks. Yeah, that's the best part.
+
+[2:33] What are you bringing as part of your potluck? I have no freaking idea. I have no idea. I've just put like like people. I have like Thanksgiving, uh as it should be for a food person, is one of my all-time favorite holidays.
+
+[2:46] I love myself some Thanksgiving. Uh and this year I have not had any time to devote to it at at all. But uh what I do have is one of Patrick Martin's Heritage Birds that I'm gonna cook as soon as I get home. So uh hopefully maybe before next time I can talk about the the home cook. But I'm a big believer if you go to somebody else's house for Thanksgiving and you don't necessarily get the the turkey you want, that's all about the fellowship, but you should still try to bust out one good turkey a year just as a proof of you know, proof of schiz.
+
+[3:16] You know what I'm saying? Yeah. Yeah, right. Uh the three of us, we didn't talk about it, right? We didn't talk about the photo shoot we did it at Food and Wine, did we?
+
+[3:23] Mm mm. Yeah, we did we uh did we did the little turkey with the uh with the gravy packet on the inside where we took the gravy packet, made the gravy packet, uh with gelatin. Yeah, well, extra gelatin, duh, and then uh and calcium, uh, cut it, it was set it, cut it into blocks, uh, threw it into Alginette to p put a heat proof uh like thin layer around it, and then did the very finely pounded uh white meat turkey uh right around the with meat glue, right around the uh gravy packet, then we did the dark meat turkey, then we did the skin, we did the cook off, we then we dried off the skin, we hit it with the Sears all. Sears all, Sears all, Searz all. And then we uh oh this this is the fun part.
+
+[4:05] Stas made uh Parker House roll uh dough, and uh I made my mom stuffing, and we packed the stuffing and we put the Parker House roll around it, and then we uh cooked our stuff off. It tastes pretty good. I mean, Piper couldn't tell because he's not allowed to, you know. Yeah, I could eat the crannies. Oh, Piper made cranets, which do registered trademark.
+
+[4:22] Uh Pat and Penny. Not really, not really Pat and Penny. Not really registered trademark either. But uh that's it was simple. We stuffed that stuff.
+
+[4:29] Uh that stuff was simple. You just mixed uh the we made the cranberry sauce, strained out the solids, and mixed it with uh mayonnaise, right? No. What? No.
+
+[4:37] What do you do? Uh uh I strained out the the solids from the cranberry sauce and when when it was uh not set but still a little bit warm and put the yolk in there. Oh, you made it from screach scratch. You didn't mix mayonnaise, you made it old school. Is it because I yelled at you that the guy that uh bow made it the chocolate mayonnaise back in the day and made you feel bad about it?
+
+[4:55] Uh I mean you set that as sort of a precedent. Yeah. Yeah, I thought Piper took it the easy way out, but it turns out Piper, uh Piper did me proud and did not take the easy way out. And it was uh delicious. It was good.
+
+[5:07] Yeah, it was really good. Yeah. I'm gonna do it for my family, I think. Yeah? Mm-hmm.
+
+[5:11] Why don't you uh can you fit the recipe into uh Twitter? Can you get it that short? Mm-mm. I I did a whole thing for steak once in Twitter. Stas like no, just look at it.
+
+[5:21] Look at now. Uh you could do like two tweets. No, I bet Piper can't do it in one tweet, that's what I'm saying. Ooh. You don't think Piper can do it in one tweet?
+
+[5:28] We we're struggling with tweets right now. What if I just wrote it down and then took a photo of it? That's a weak tweet. That's weak tweet. Weak tweet.
+
+[5:37] The whole point of the tweet is to try to get within the medium, which is the character. Well, no, he's gonna try to work on outside of it. It'll be on the splatter. Piper's gonna send out this damn recipe one way or other. And in order to get it, I'm not gonna put it on the cooking issues uh tweeting uh feed.
+
+[5:50] You're gonna have to go follow Booker and Dak's lab, uh, which is where the Sears all thing is uh is gonna be going up in two days. Well, two days in like five hours, six two days in like eight hours, whatever it is. Midnight. Midnight. Two days and twelve hours.
+
+[6:06] Thurs Friday. Thurs Friday, Black Friday. So you want to talk about uh what's going on with that? I mean, uh if you're following us on Twitter, you already know that we've got a lot of uh big names using the Sears All, loving the Sears All. Um we're gonna launch it.
+
+[6:21] The video's coming together, the pages coming together, it looks great. I'm excited. Yeah. You want to tell them about our our sushi chef friend? Uhsuke Nakazawa.
+
+[6:30] Yeah. Famous for the. Uh he worked at Jiro. He was the guy who made the omelet. By the way, uh Stas and I have eaten at Jiro.
+
+[6:37] The omelet, the tomato there is in fact different from any other one and delicious. Remember, it was kind of fluffy and like uh almost like a cake. Remember that thing? Mm-hmm. That was actually one of my favorite things about Jiro was the tomato.
+
+[6:48] Delicious. And now the uh the the developer, I guess, the master of my favorite tomato, now uses the Searzel. Yeah. Loves. He's got a restaurant uh somewhere in the West Village, huh?
+
+[7:01] Yeah, but here it's hard to get into though, right? Yeah. Hard to find. It's on Commerce. Oh my god.
+
+[7:05] They look, look, people see here's the problem. Like, you people are you telling inside jokes on the radio. They were in a taxi cab with a famous chef who is known for having a bit of a temper, and the taxi driver was unable to find uh a Nakazawa sushi restaurant. And so uh there was uh hilarity ensued, right? Yeah.
+
+[7:25] And by hilarity I mean anger. And fear. But uh he loves uh Nakazawa loves the the Searzole. Uh doesn't put any taste on the salmon skin that he crisps up with it. Uh it's awesome.
+
+[7:36] Well, maybe someday we can go eat some. See how that see how that works out for us. I'd love to. Um all right. So hey, real quick before we we move on.
+
+[7:44] I just want for our first time listeners, I want to jump in and say, Okay, so what is the Searsol? Why do we want it? Etc. I love the idea that we might have a first-time listener. I feel like we had like we had a certain peak and then we just yeah, and then we just lose them all.
+
+[7:58] So somebody wandered in here. Yeah, right, yeah. It's like, so what is this? Uh so a Searsol, uh it's a good point, uh uh good point, Jalen. Thanks so much.
+
+[8:07] The um Searsol is an attachment that fits on a torch. So for years, right, if you're doing low temperature sous vide cooking, uh, especially at home, the way I used it, honestly, the way I used to finish uh a steak or anything, fish, uh, poultry, anything that I would do sous vide, deep fry. Only way, deep fry, deep fry, deep fry, right? And that's crispy and delicious. Love the deep fryer.
+
+[8:30] Uh problem is not everyone has a commercial deep fryer in their house. I mean, I guess because of like what I said before a couple episodes ago about insurance reasons and whatnot. Some people don't like the idea of uh frying uh things, finished frying things for CV. They're wrong, it's delicious, but you know, whatever. Um, and most people don't have power output enough to heat up a pan sufficiently.
+
+[8:53] Uh so really charcoal grill is a good option, but you know, a lot of people can't do a charcoal grill right away, or they don't have one, or they're in an apartment or something like this. So a lot of people turn to the blowtorch. The problem with blowtorch is uh it creates uh what we call uh torch taste on the meat, which is very very characteristic torchy fuel taste that uh you know our friend Arielle at UC Davis did some uh work uh for us, thank thing you know, thank you, uh, where she showed that in fact it's not the fuel itself that's causing it, but the intense heat of the flame is creating combustion uh flavors on the meat itself. So we have this item called the Searsol, which plugs onto a torch. We recommend the Burntonatic TS 8000, TS8000, because it's 12,000 BTUs.
+
+[9:38] It plugs on this thing and it turns it into a mini handheld uh IR broiler, basically. What do you think? Yeah, that's about right. Yeah? Yeah?
+
+[9:46] Okay. Now for some questions. Rory right's right saying about juice. Hey, to the cooking issues too. My wife just bought a juicer, not the auger type, but the type with the fine spinning blade.
+
+[9:56] My question is how can I preserve the juice for longer than a few hours? I've tried searching the Google, but I get a lot of mumbo jumbo about how you shouldn't try to preserve it because of its magical life-giving nutritional properties are so fleeting. However, I only drink the juice because it tastes good. Is that not reason enough? So, what are my options to get it to last, say, one week?
+
+[10:13] I have ascorbic acid on hand, although I have no idea what sort of percentages to use it in. And I also have a sous vide and no qualms about heating the fruit juice uh heating the fruit prior to juicing, or in fact the resulting juice. I'm keen to make bulk uh lots of tasty fruit, apple, orange, and or veggie juice, whatever's cheap at the market on the weekend to last a week. Love the show as always. Keep it up, regards, Rory Mearns.
+
+[10:33] Okay, uh oh, and then uh PS. I'm gonna read the PS before I answer the question because I love it. PS on these nuts. Because we happen to be listening to the episode with the rant about Virginia peanuts while driving through Virginia on our U.S. road trip holiday.
+
+[10:44] I want to take a U.S. road trip holiday with my kids, but my kids would never be into it. Like I want to do all that crap. My well maybe in a year. Maybe in a year.
+
+[10:51] Did you guys do that when you were kids? Taking the road trip around the country? I've done it recently, but not as a kid. Not as a kid. So oh I'll get into it later if I have time.
+
+[11:01] Like all I'm saying is that I used to do it, and I appreciate that I did it now, but it's boring as hell to sit in the back of the car and watch a bunch of stuff go by. So like when we drive with the kids, the kids like they have their faces buried in iPhones and iPads, and like my wife and her, like, what the hell? Look around at the scenery. Look at this, look. And then they don't really care.
+
+[11:17] And then, like, I remember back, and I'm like, yo, Jen, that's my wife. I was like, yo, uh, Jen, I mean, I remember not giving a crap when I was a kid. Right? But you guys don't have this experience to share with me because you didn't do that. Nope.
+
+[11:30] No. Maybe. Joe, did you do that stuff? And then he's away. Um, you know, not really like cross-country road trips, but you know, we drove a couple hours here and there.
+
+[11:39] And were you bored as crap in the back? Oh, it depends. I also got car sick, so that's kind of my main memory. Feeling feeling nauseous. Sweet.
+
+[11:47] Sweet. Great times. Driving and puking. That was that great Southern Rock band. Remember that?
+
+[11:50] Driving and puking? Yeah. Or was it driving and crying? I think it was driving and crying. Yeah.
+
+[11:54] Should have been driving and puking. Good band. Uh. Okay. We happen to be listening to the episode with the rant about Virginia Peanuts while driving through Virginia on our U.S.
+
+[12:01] road trip holiday. My wife said, Yeah, right. How good can the peanuts really be? I don't know that your wife speaks that way, but that's just my voice when I imitate people. And exact it's exactly what my uh reaction was.
+
+[12:11] Within 10 minutes of that, we stopped at some tired-looking roadside shop and picked up a can of the goods. Wow, we were both blown away. They were so insanely good. And just as you described, with an unfamiliar but satisfying snap to them. Virginia Peanuts, these nuts.
+
+[12:26] Okay, now back to your question. So, um, just one note on juices. You mentioned orange, and obviously orange, you're going to juice it in a different way. The juice will bitter over time. So you just, you know, just test a couple, and it's it's variety dependent.
+
+[12:55] You, you know, uh you just test it, and if after a couple of hours it hasn't gone bitter, you're probably uh you're probably okay. But it's just something to note on uh some citrus fruits, is some will uh undergo post um post juice bittering. Uh some tangerines, uh I don't know whether Clementines do. I think some Clementines do. A lot of navels do.
+
+[13:15] Anyway, just nothing to be aware of. Um Ascorbic acid is gonna be your lifesaver on uh a lot of these things. I wouldn't do uh a pre, I wouldn't do a pre uh juicing uh heat step on it because I don't, you know, you're not gonna get uh mold growth that quickly on your juice in the fridge or in the freezer, as long as it's not moldy to begin with. You wash, you you know, you wash it thoroughly. If you want to do a sanitized step, if you have a non flavor thing of like one of those fruit sandy fruit, what are those things called?
+
+[13:43] You ever seen those things? Those fruit sandy, I never use them. I've never seen them. Uh they have them, they're like solutions you can dip like salad and stuff into if you're pregnant, and then it doesn't like but uh I've never used it. Some people even use like a weak chlorine, dip it in and then let it air out.
+
+[13:56] I've never done it. I never done it. Anyways, but you can do it. Uh and and and juice it, uh, then uh I usually way overdose on ascorbic acid. Like, way overdose on ascorbic acid, like to the tune of about a teaspoon per liter, right?
+
+[14:13] Would you say that's about what we do, pipes? Yeah, it's a lot. It doesn't add too much flavor. It doesn't add too much flavor, but it you know, it does juice you up on vitamin C so you can, you know, pee yellow and maybe live forever. Although Linus Pauling did not live forever.
+
+[14:24] Linus Pauling was the famous two-time Nobel laureate scientist who well, the second one he won was a peace prize, but he thought you could uh greatly increase uh longevity and reduce uh disease by just mega dosing on vitamin C. You know what happened to him? He peed out a bunch of vitamin C and then died? Uh that's pretty accurate. Although he did live to a ripe old age and was, you know, one of the smartest scientists of the twentieth century.
+
+[14:47] Anyway, uh so there you go, Linus Pauling. Uh so anyways, so uh I usually add uh uh about a teaspoon per liter and stir it in. And uh if you want to keep it for a long time, I would say cold, vac bag it, and then freeze it. When you when you do it, the best way to freeze it is to uh vac bag the juice and then lay it on a sheet tray and freeze it flat in a sheet, uh and that way they stack very well in your freezer. And also when it comes time to thaw them, you're only thawing through, you know, like I don't know, like three eighths of an inch to uh you know, three-eighths of an inch roughly is what we usually do them at.
+
+[15:23] Three-eighths of an inch of stuff that you have to thaw out in uh in uh running water in order to get the juice usable again. So that's what I recommend. And juice lasts a good uh week uh in in the in the fridge. Depends on the juice, too. I mean like grapefruit juice, uh what do you think?
+
+[15:38] Weak piper? Nah. Orange juice, a couple days, grapefruit. Freeze it. Freeze it.
+
+[15:44] Yeah, freeze it. Flat and vax. Yeah. You're good. Apple juice would last a good week.
+
+[15:50] Oh, yeah. It's not I don't think you're gonna get mold. Piper would add uh what would you add to as a preservative if you really want to keep that sucker? Um sodium benzoate. Potassium sorbate.
+
+[16:00] It's small amounts. Super micro amount, like uh one hundredth. Yeah, but you only need a small bit because you're really only preventing the slightest look, you're not trying to keep this sucker uh, you know, yeast proof in a shelf stable application over like a zillion years. You're talking about keeping this sucker in the fridge for a week. So the amount of stabilization you you know you need is minimal.
+
+[16:23] I wouldn't I mean if you're doing it for a week, I wouldn't put anything in. But if you were gonna have it on a shelf, I mean you want to prevent against microbial growth. And uh remember, there's also but uh they're not carbonating it. So like when you're doing benzoit in a soda application, which is what Piper's done most of the research on, you know, the the carbon dioxide is also a huge inhibitor. Right.
+
+[16:41] But anyway, and so is the actual the uh the uh asorbic acid is a huge inhibitor too. It's really gonna protect it. Yeah, but it doesn't last. But it'll last a week. Yeah.
+
+[16:50] Ascorbic acid uh doesn't last over time. It gets it gets uh used uh and then it's it's over. But uh I also agree that uh I think you know you're right on point. I only drink the juice because it tastes good. That is reason enough.
+
+[17:01] I don't believe in any magical life-giving nutritional properties. Although I was teaching a bunch of uh kids at Dax's uh third grade class, and this one kid he asked me, he's like, Do they make any machines that uh use juice as a fuel? I was like, You are a machine that uses juice as a fuel, my friend. Third graders are awesome. Anyway, I was explaining steam engines.
+
+[17:20] I love it when they learn about food. Yeah young. Yeah, young juice. Okay. Uh next was that was that an okay answer, Stas?
+
+[17:29] Yeah. Yeah. You're just like, I really I don't care. I don't care. Matt from Chicago writes in also about nuts.
+
+[17:37] Not of not not these, but just it's some nuts. Uh hello, Dave, and all the people who can, unlike Dave, occasionally be absent without thereby causing the whole show to skip a week. Ouch. Wow. Oh, the stats.
+
+[17:48] Have you ever missed one? Have we? Have you ever missed one? No. I think I feel like I've done it once without you.
+
+[17:54] I think I don't know. We'll have to look it up. Okay. You mentioned on this week's episode a desire for a nut question every week. You're probably being facetious, but nevertheless, I'm here to do my part.
+
+[18:02] Now I like nut questions, right, Bass? Yeah. And we got another one after this, too. Awesome. Two more nut questions if we get to them.
+
+[18:08] Awesome. Anyway. I seen remember in one of your early episodes a brief reference to a book which covered methods for making not merely actual tofu but very tofu-like products uh from things other than soy, such as nuts. Speaking of someone who's allergic to soy and all emanations thereof, but nevertheless interested in experimenting with tofu-esque ingredients in the kitchen. I've searched through the archives, it's been unable to identify which episode this was, let alone which book, so I'll just come out and ask.
+
+[18:30] Um, what information sources would you recommend for someone in my situation? Am I merely hallucinating this discussion from the show's past? Is there any consumer intelligent home cook oriented literature which provide a useful guide to the production of faux foo? I like faux foo as a term. Uh Matt from Chicago-ish.
+
+[18:44] P.S. I feel sorry for whatever poor deluded, misguided persons wanted to remove your pro gear from your old apartment kitchen. I, for one, would happily pay a premium for such a kitchen. Stas is like, you preach you need to convert it over here. Okay.
+
+[18:55] So the uh so here here's the thing, Matt. Uh I did talk about that, and m my thought was that it's in modernist cuisine, in the you know, the massive tone that is modernist cuisine. Here is the problem. Uh as I spoke last week, uh we m I moved apartments and all of my books are still in boxes. So I didn't get a chance to uh to go to the book and search it.
+
+[19:20] But my recollection is that Modernist Cuisine has a section not merely on reforming tofu tofu with transglutaminase, but also on making alternative tofus from other legumes and uh other things like that. Now, it's extremely obvious that you can get tofu like textures uh from almost anything you want, any nut milk you want by setting it with the appropriate agents. Um but I assume that's not what you're talking about. I assume you're talking about making an actual tofu like product that uses a coagulation as a as the technique. Now, I myself have uh experimented with uh peanuts and the result was delicious, but the texture was crap.
+
+[20:04] It was worthless, useless. Like I would I tried it only one time. It also clogged, it wouldn't coagulate hard enough, so it clogged my draining uh my you know my draining tiles. Um so and also my Nguyen tofu book also packs. Um all my tofu references are packed.
+
+[20:19] Actually, I found shirt leaf, but he doesn't believe in any of that stuff anyway. Um so uh next week, hopefully I have the the books unpacked and I can uh address it again with the tofu. But uh my guess is is that if you took uh protein like something like uh peanuts and tried to make a peanut fu and you added transglutaminates when I was doing my experiments was well before I had started working with transglutaminase. This is like 2000, this is like 2000, you know, when I was doing this stuff. And like, you know, 12, 13 years ago or something.
+
+[20:46] So uh I need to re revisit it maybe with transglutaminase. I'm sure you could get peanuts to set harder with if you use TG. Wouldn't you think, Pipes? Yeah. I've gotten milk to set with it in the centrifuge.
+
+[20:58] I'm assuming I don't know, Matt, whether you have a centrifuge or not, but we'll I don't I'm sorry. Piper's like, just put in your citifuge. What are you? Jerk. What are you?
+
+[21:07] Man. Piper. Piper. Okay. Uh take a break.
+
+[21:12] Really? Mm-hmm. Alright. We'll come back from the break with more cooking issues. Like what you hear so far?
+
+[22:24] Support the network and become a member. Membership helps us bring you the best food radio in the world and gives you access to thousands of dollars in discounts at the sustainably minded businesses that support us. To become a member, visit Heritage Radio Network dot org today. Pasture raised on a hundred and fifty thousand acres in Central California. Sustainably produced.
+
+[22:56] Humane. The authentic flavor of the American West. Hell yes! Cooking issues! Love that song.
+
+[23:17] Love that song. Hurst Grinch fed beef. Love that stuff. You know what? But people you don't know this guy yet.
+
+[23:23] Maybe you've heard Nastasha speak about him, but Phil Bravo, uh friend of ours, kind of a friend of the show, not really a friend of the show. Friend, friend of Nastash's. Uh the person that uh that Nastash, you know, currently an enemy of the show, uh, Nastashian Piper uh fed Drew some arch jokes too to mess with his insides. Um he has possibly one of the great radio voices of all times. And he was supposed to come in to the um show today and read the questions for Thanksgiving.
+
+[23:52] His voice, when he wants it to be, is a dead ringer for uh Thoral Ravencroft, who you might know as the voice of Tony the Tiger. In fact, yesterday Phil did a their great, which was I almost fell over. And uh I've heard that he does uh, you know, uh like a life-changing uh Mr. Grinch uh rendition. By the way, I don't want anyone calling in and saying that the Grinch is uh is Boris Karloff.
+
+[24:15] Look, the voice of the Grinch is Boris Karloff, right? Right? But Thor Ravencroft is the song, right? And that's why it sounds different. That's why the song sounds different from the voice.
+
+[24:27] Well, the song is in second person, and the Grinch is typically in first person. Whoa, with the analysis, correct. From creative writing major Piper Christensen. Anyway, so like I can't wait for uh the extremely short Christmas season this year so that I can hear Phil Bravo do his rendition of you're a foul one, Mr. Grinch.
+
+[24:48] Uh but uh I would love the reason I brought that up is because I would love to hear Phil's rendition of her French grass fred beef. Yeah. The authentic taste of the American West, right? Isn't that what it is? I believe it's the authentic taste of the American West.
+
+[25:00] Is that true? As authentic as it gets. Yeah, pretty much. Pretty much. Oh, speaking of which, uh, another one of our uh sponsors, the uh uh I have a uh from Underground Meats.
+
+[25:10] I have something in. This is from uh Brandon Hopkins in Phoenix, Arizona. Hey all. Thanks for the salami recommendations a few weeks ago. I ordered the Tuscan salami super sata.
+
+[25:19] I'll call this. You know what I'm from here, so I'll call it super side. Oh, whoa, whoa, whoa. Right? But how do you pronounce it, Stas?
+
+[25:24] How's the actual Italian thing? Soprasata. Soprasata. Uh super sad. Alright.
+
+[25:30] Uh uh Fenochiona, right? Is that right? Mm-hmm. Fennel sausage is which uh salami and the Spanish chorizo from underground meats. Underground meats.
+
+[25:39] Underground meats. Uh everyone that tried them thought they were delicious. The Spanish chorizo was particularly tasty, which I served with Manchego and Quince paste on some toasted baguettes. You were all right, Piper, until he busted out the baguettes. You were all good until he busted out the you like Membrio?
+
+[25:53] I love membrio. Yeah, nice. Why don't you point the mic towards your face when you talk about it? It's because he's shoving his face with food. That's alright.
+
+[26:00] Don't worry about it. Anyway, uh, I like membrio as well. Uh quince paste on some toasted baguettes. All the sausages were far superior to anything I have had in the store. I thought you'd be happy to know how awesome the show's sponsor is.
+
+[26:14] Not only was all their sausage delicious, but their delivery was very fast. I would recommend any sausage fans give underground meats a try. Thanks for the suggestion, Brandon Hopkins. That's a good uh that's good testimonial, right? Yeah, good people, good people there.
+
+[26:28] Anyway. Uh, uh and while we're on the subject of meats, Lucas, friend of the show, writes in, and friend of Mofad came to the Mofad party. Uh, he's gonna give us the deer meat. He also had uh a comment on the uh on the breastfeeding. We have two comments on the breastfeeding uh thing.
+
+[26:43] And uh surprisingly, most people look before we get into this, like I'm not saying that someone should like shove their shove the the the stuff in your face necessarily. I'm just saying, you know, don't be hating, don't be hating, right? That's my point. No? No.
+
+[26:59] All right. All right. So Lucas wants to give us some of his deer meat, which we desperately want. We're gonna like 54 Eldritch is our lab, by the way, on Elder Street between Canal and uh and Hester. Like, we're not available though until after Thanksgiving.
+
+[27:13] So we'll have to get the deer meat some point after Thanksgiving. I already told him. But he writes, uh, for the record, I think women should be able to breastfeed however they want, albeit the usage of the scarf should be a m is a matter of good taste rather than of policy, right? I think that's the point. It's not making a policy, but it is, I guess, good taste, right?
+
+[27:30] I think we can agree. I saw a lady in a business meeting, though. Breast bare breastfeeding. So then Lucas adds, however, as you sit in the center of Hipsteropolis, which is a good word, uh, I don't think you can demand uh too much good taste. Whoa!
+
+[27:47] That is true. Oh. And uh while we're on it, uh, we had another comment in uh on that. Might as well go to that. Dr.
+
+[27:53] Bob writes in. Hi, Anastasia. For some of us, the female body is the pinnacle of creation and should be treated with the utmost respect. When I examine a breast in an emergency uh department exam room, it's done only with a female staffer in attendance. When it's not being examined, the breast is kept uh respectfully tucked away in the exam gown, even though the patient is in a private room.
+
+[28:12] I realize cultural norms vary around the world, but in a New York restaurant with a wide variety of public in attendance, I agree that the respectful thing, particularly for the woman in question, is to keep the breast covered. The awe and mystery of the female form is worthy of preservation, Dr. Bob. Thanks, Dr. Bob.
+
+[28:28] Well, that's the first time. I love the way you said that, Stas. It's awkward. Well, you know you're the one that brought it up. You can't you can't bring something like that up and then No, I know, I appreciate it.
+
+[28:39] It's still awkward. All right. Awkward, right? That's like uh same. Alex from Santa Barbara writes in hello, Dave and Nastasha, and I guess Piper, even though you know Alex didn't include you.
+
+[28:49] Nobody knew it's implied. The implied piper. Is that that's uh that's the next thing, the implied piper? I will skip the fryer talk, because we would talk about fryers. And ask about Thanksgiving.
+
+[28:59] I've been working on a pecan pie. Pecan or pecan? What do you get? Pecan. Are you a pecan or a pecan?
+
+[29:03] Pecan. Pecan? But I think everyone down there goes pecan, right? Pecan? What about Baltimore?
+
+[29:08] You're on the dividing line between the North and the South. What do you say? I say pecan. Yeah? P can sounds like two can.
+
+[29:15] Ooh, two can Sam. Yeah. You know what really ticks me off? They have a new Fruit Loops thing that has this like weird center goop in it. I haven't tried it.
+
+[29:22] My kids have been pestering me, but it hasn't gone on sale yet, so I have we're talking about Fruit Loops, is what we're talking about, Piper. I don't eat cereal. I come from Vermont. So the uh like they have this new Fruit Loops, and the the old advertisement for Fruit Loops was follow your nose, it always knows. And like the two can Sam goes around.
+
+[29:37] Uh but this new one, they're using freaking metal detectors to find the fruit loops. Two can Sam is there where there's two can minions and a freaking metal detector. Why do you need a metal detector to find fruit loops? Follow your nose, Sam. It always knows.
+
+[29:52] Gosh. What's with the fruit goop in the center? I don't know, man. I don't know. I don't know, man.
+
+[29:58] They're finding the treasure chest. I don't know what the hell's going on with it. First of all, it's a fruit loop, not a fruit pillow. And second of all, the freaking toucan with his giant nose and all the colored stripes is supposed to be able to smell any dang fruit loop product from a mile away. And the fact that maybe he's so old, his nose is shot, he has to use a metal detector to find it.
+
+[30:18] Get your advertising straight. That irritated the heck out of me. And then, even worse, my kids saw that and then they still wanted it because they didn't realize what a slap in the face it was to two cans everywhere, that they had to use uh uh some sort of electronic gimmicry to find the fruit loops. Jerks. Okay.
+
+[30:37] Uh I will skip the fire talking uh back to Alex. And that's about Thanksgiving. I've been working on a pecan pie inspired uh dessert for Thanksgiving, kind of like a peanut butter cup, but with pecans. Uh the flavors are great once sugar oil and molasses are added, but the texture is off. I can't get the crumbly moist, dense texture that the mad scientists at uh Reese's pull off.
+
+[30:56] Any ideas? Listen, uh Alex from Santa Barbara. So the the the trick with when you're trying to imitate somebody else's texture, the best thing to do is to figure out kind of how they how they make it, right? Now I know I've mentioned on the uh on the show before that one of the key notes in a real Reese's peanut butter cup is um is rancidity. Is you know, oxidative rancidity of the uh peanut butter.
+
+[31:22] And uh I believe I mentioned I know I mentioned at some point, I don't know how long ago, that I spoke to someone from a company that does uh oxygen scavenging packaging that prevents rancidity uh in packaged goods, and they did a test run of Reese's peanut butter cups with the uh with the oxygen scavengers in them, and nobody liked them because they missed the taste of rancidity, right? So, anyway, so you might want to let the pecans go rancid before you make it. If you really want it, if you really want to hit that Reese's note right on the button. But what I recommend you do is uh go look up a copycat recipe for uh Reese's. Now uh uh Nastasha looked up there's a well-known uh copycat recipe uh dude named Todd Wilbur.
+
+[32:02] He has YouTube videos, I think, and he has his uh show and he has a couple books on copycat recipes. He tackled um Reese's and um and what he uh uses his trick supposedly is to use reduced fat peanut butter uh and powdered sugar. So he like he's using fundamentally reduced fat peanut butter and powdered sugar. Now, luckily for you, the pecans that you get in general uh have uh my guess is from having ground a lot of pecan butter over the years. Remember, Stas, we used to have to grind pecan butter constantly.
+
+[32:33] Stas is Stas has got that that thank Christ that part of my life is over smile on her face, right? Yeah, yeah. We hated that. I hated doing that. We had to do it all the time.
+
+[32:42] We did we used to just do pecans constantly pecan oil, pecan butter, pecan soups, all in the center fuses, pecans, pecans, pecans. Now, Stas is gonna be reliving that nightmare with hickory nuts! When are we gonna get those things in? Super soon. Okay.
+
+[32:56] So they uh and and we're gonna test butternuts too. But I don't know whether from Home Depot. We found a guy in Home Depot, literally, we're in the plant section. Nastash is in the plant section because it's like I'm I'm gonna go get some bulbs from my house. I'm like, what the and then she's there and she's like, come here, come here.
+
+[33:11] And like this guy is over in the corner talking about, I got all these hickory nuts in the in my in my yacht, and uh, I hear there's some people on the internet, they like these things, so I collected them. And I'm thinking out of selling them, but I don't really know how. And stuff's like, we can buy them. We can buy a lot of the hickory nuts. Right?
+
+[33:26] Isn't that what you said? Yeah, well, you wouldn't talk, but you forced him to but it was you you you both overheard him heard him I guess that's when we were picking up our freeze dryer from ideas and food ideas and food we have a freeze dryer from that we haven't had a chance to fire it up yet I've been working on the uh working on the Sears all so I haven't had a chance to fire up the uh freeze dryer after Thanksgiving we'll fire up the freeze dryer and give you guys reports anyways hey Dave I gotta jump in here for a second so a listener just sent in to info at heritage radio network dot org a picture of crusty o's from the Simpsons that comes with a free jagged metal crustio inside and saying that maybe two can Sam is looking for crustyos. Maybe you mean that's why he because he can't he needs the metal he needs the the metal detector to find the jaggedy metal one. Yeah exactly and I was just impressed at the speed at which that came in I guess it's live radio right I guess yeah we're live we're live when I say coming to you live I'm not messing around. No way.
+
+[34:20] No we're we're actually here real human beings coming to you live. Okay so his secret is uh is to use the reduced fat peanut butter my guess from grinding a lot of pecans over the years is that uh because we would typically to get a good oil uh yield out of the pecans we would add some oil back to it remember that styles because uh they would um they're not as dry as almonds but they're more dry than probably peanuts definitely peanut butter that has oil added to it so if you grind uh straight pecans or I guess you're maybe you're using pecan butter and uh then you gotta get your uh molasses and whatever you else you do to the texture of a powdered sugar. I mean that's gonna be the issue. They don't make a uh how would you do that? Just use brown sugar and powder it, right?
+
+[35:02] So you don't have the extra moisture content. Just powderized brown sugar in a in a RoboCoo with uh some other dry stuff. Freeze and powder it? Like, how are you gonna powder brown sugar? Oh, get the get the free running, get the free running brown.
+
+[35:15] What's gonna gum up? Get the free running brown, maybe? Oh, Demarnara. Yeah. And then powderize it in in a blender.
+
+[35:22] And then uh maybe add some cornstarch to it, because they that cornstarch that's into powder sugar might be helping out a little bit. You don't know what the ratio of cornstarch in in uh powder sugar is, do you? No, it's not huge though. No, it's like a couple percent, right? Yeah.
+
+[35:33] Yeah. So the cornstarch is probably helping with the texture a little bit, right? Because it's you know making it giving it that pasty, la da, right? And then uh powderize the uh brown sugar substitute, uh, and then just make sure the fat content of your pecans aren't too high. And that should be getting the texture you want.
+
+[35:51] And then if you want, check out uh Todd Wilbur's um uh Todd Wilbur's whatever his website. But it looks like you're gonna reduce the oil. And uh, yeah, what do you think? Give it tell me whether it works. I'm interested to hear the result because until I found hickory nuts, my feeling was pecans were God's nut.
+
+[36:07] But now I think hickory nuts are God's nut. Right? God nut. Uh okay. Uh Philippe Lament writes in about possibly, possibly poisoned bread.
+
+[36:19] Uh hello, Dave, Nastasha, Jack and Joe, and Madam Piper. Uh this is Philippe Lament writing in. Thanks for the advice on the soft serve machine. I recently went on vacation and ate at a spectacular restaurant called Amass in Copenhagen. I've never been.
+
+[36:33] I've never been. I was in Copenhagen for like 13 minutes, and I took a train to uh to Sweden, got to hell out. I've never been to any of those restaurants. Amass is in Copenhagen, yeah? Yeah, it's a Copenhagen.
+
+[36:41] Yeah. Anyway. Uh there we were served a bread made with one-third fermented cooked potato. We were told I like the word potato. Potato.
+
+[36:51] Uh we were told uh that the potatoes were cooked, mashed, and put in cryovac bags and fermented in a warm room. The bread was amazing, but wouldn't this anaerobic and warm environment create a poison? What's up? Thank you. Well, yes, it it most likely could.
+
+[37:06] So this is very similar to um uh salt rising bread, uh sometimes made with a potato starter. There's a lot of anaerobic fermentation of uh potatoes in um in uh Andean cooking where you know where the potato comes from. Uh some of the their freeze-dried chunyo potatoes are kept in water and fermented, and there's also something called uh tokash or togash, which is like you literally you bury the potatoes in water for you know, I don't know, like months, and then you dig it up and then it well, I think they say that they use running water, so it it takes the bacteria away, but you and I both know that that's not the case. So uh so yeah, so what's gonna grow in there? So the two main uh things that you're gonna get growing, and in fact, salt rising bread, the actual rising is not done by a yeast, it's done by uh your good buddy Clostridium perfyngens.
+
+[37:55] And uh that that is not good. You do not want to get a uh pornens infection, especially if you're like you know, a soldier in battle, because that causes gas gangrene, which is bad, bad. Uh and it also creates um uh an enterotoxin, which uh, you know, can you know get you sick. Uh so all in all, bad. The uh but the good news is is that when you cook bread, you're cooking it up to uh the boiling point of water, typically to 12 or higher, right?
+
+[38:25] Because it's getting at least at least a 180 Fahrenheit, usually up higher, up closer to the boiling point. And uh well before that happens, the uh toxins from the the bacteria themselves are uh killed. The spores can't germinate because the moisture activity of the bread is not high enough when it's done. And the uh because you might not be killing the spores, remember, because that takes a much higher temperature than that for a long period of time, uh, because Clostridium perfingens is a spore-forming bacteria. But the toxins are neutralized, the vegetative cells are killed, and the spores cannot germinate uh in the environment of the cooked bread.
+
+[39:00] So uh salt risen salt rising bread, safe. Uh also interesting, I read some papers on the line on the internets that say that uh well the other and the other problem, and this you can get this from a poorly stored baked potato, botulism, right? Botulism can grow, and there's been cases of poorly stored uh, you know, people eating baked potatoes uh that have botulism and can cause problems. So uh the good news is that if you're specifically growing clostridium, clostridium perfyngens will uh outcompete the botulism, and there's been studies showing that botulism, clostridium, uh the botulism uh clostridium will not grow in the presence of a thriving uh perfynge uh colony. So that will take care of that.
+
+[39:41] And the other good news is let's say you should grow a uh boatload of botulism, the uh toxin, the botulin uh botulism toxin is also heat labile and will be destroyed by the cooking. So in general, the uh you know, the it seems that you're not gonna die from uh eating um the properly made uh stuff. And my experience from making salt rising bread and from having um clostridium uh fermented um uh what was it, cassava in uh in Senegal was that um it has a very characteristic smell to it, and so you kinda know whether or not it's got the right bacterial mix in there when you're when you're eating it, uh, when you're making it rather. And so hopefully that stuff should guarantee that you're uh not gonna die, and apparently you did not because you wrote us a question, right? What do you think?
+
+[40:29] Yeah, yeah. Solved. Good, it's a good but you know, again, you know, with all of the BS, uh, you know, I am not uh I am not a food safety, blah blah blah. Like, don't don't do this at home, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah. Okay.
+
+[40:43] Um, we had a question in from uh Joe Blow. Uh Joe Blow 667, uh Joe Blow 67. I can't believe there's only 67. He must have been an early Joe Blow. Because like that's like one of the first ones you're gonna check, right?
+
+[40:57] I'm sure it's like up to like Joe Blow 8,925,326. Anyway, uh any ideas for what you can do with peanut shells. Seems like a giant ways to eat the internet and throw the rest out. Well, you should just throw it on the floor. Yeah, like a uh Western bar.
+
+[41:11] Yeah, yeah, right? Because like that like totally adds to the uh to the what's it called, right? The ambiance. Yeah, ambiance. The ambience.
+
+[41:19] The ambience of the bar. Uh no, but uh uh, you know, take this seriously, like they don't taste good, right? But I don't know, okay. So you guys are like a little bit younger than I am. So when I say peanut, you say like name a person, name a person who's worked with peanuts.
+
+[41:33] I'm gonna see if they it was only when I was a kid that they were teaching this stuff. People feed elephants? No, George Washington Carver, man. When I was a kid, look when I was a kid, if you said if you said the word carver or George Washington Carver, you're peanut, peanut, you know what I mean? If you said peanuts, you're like George and Carver, billion ways to use a peanut.
+
+[41:53] You know what I mean? So George Washington Carver was like, at least in the 70s, we were like like like taught constantly about there was this guy who his life's work was he's gonna figure out how to like squeeze every last piece of uh utility out of the freaking peanut. Turns out the guy also worked on um a sweet potatoes and a bunch of other stuff. He was the he was the head of the agricultural department at uh the Tuskegee Institute for uh many years, starting at the beginning of the 1900s, all the way through, I think, until I think until his death. Uh and uh he he did write a book that you can get online, uh portions of it at least, called uh How to Grow the Peanut and 105 Ways of Preparing It for Human Consumption.
+
+[42:39] And this is not about the hulls, but you should go check it, check it out. He also he did a lot of patent work on like different ways to use peanuts, like making textiles out of peanuts, and that's where the hull comes in, making like ointments out of peanuts, medicines out of peanuts, oils out of peanuts, like like you know, he like people say George Washington cover invented peanut butter. That's a load of that's a load of crap. That is not the case. Although he might have done a lot to popularize peanut butter here in the US of A.
+
+[43:04] And again, the French hate peanut butter. Maybe it's because they have something against George Washington Carver. Weasels. But uh uh very interesting story. You should go read about George Washington Carver.
+
+[43:13] Born uh born a slave, uh became uh, you know, uh uh an eminent um scientist. Anyway, so the one that I like of his is, and then I'll answer your question. The one uh here's a weird ones. Number 43 in the peanut uses is peanut and cheese roast. Right for this?
+
+[43:31] Yeah, yeah. Yeah. I I I want someone to make this. Like maybe Piper, someday after the Kickstarter is done, you can make this right. One cup grated cheese.
+
+[43:38] No freaking specification of what kind of cheese. Now, this is like 1910 or whatever, so you know, whatever. Maybe we'll have to figure out kind of what kind of cheese they would have had, like just lying around. Okay, you you you will use cheddar and tell us. Okay, one cup bread crumbs, you have to substitute gluten free breadcrumbs, right?
+
+[43:53] So you got your one cup grated cheese, your one cup of breadcrumbs, your teaspoon of chopped onion, your one cup of finely ground peanuts, tablespoon butter, juice of half of a lemon. This is a weird recipe, right? Salt to taste. Cook the onion in the butter and a little water until it's tender. That's random right there.
+
+[44:11] Like adding water to sweat the onion out before the butt that's random stiff stuff right there. Random. Yeah. Uh mix the other ingredients and moisten with water, more water. Using the water in which the onion has been cooked, pour into a shallow baking dish and brown in the oven.
+
+[44:26] That is a weird, weird recipe. Sounds like a dip. No, he says it's a roast. I mean says it sets into a block. He doesn't say whether to serve it hot or serve it cold.
+
+[44:38] I mean, that's crazy recipe. He says cook onion in butter and water. So why add the butter then? And why not just add the butter later? And then mix breadcrumbs, peanuts, lemon, and cheese together with the water and onion stuff and bake it.
+
+[44:59] That's weird. Yeah. It's strange. But I you know what? You know, George Wash.
+
+[45:04] Yeah, we're gonna try it. I'm gonna give George Russian and Carver a try. But to answer your question, well, the only thing I can think of that's useful from a food perspective is you can make charcoal from peanuts. So uh shells. So you take the peanut shells, pack them into uh a chimney starter, light them up, and then to make charcoal, you have to cut off the entire oxygen supply.
+
+[45:20] Once the stuff starts burning, you cut off the oxygen supply. Uh they should go to charcoal. Most people, when they're actually using it for fuel, then compress them into briquettes, and you can look up online how to do this. Uh I wonder whether there's a use for the really fine charcoal, maybe as a really quick way to start charcoal, right? I mean it's gonna burn really quickly or burn really hot, or maybe throw it on top of charcoal to give an extra burst of heat.
+
+[45:41] I don't know. But it's the only thing I can think of from a food perspective. Uh fuel for a smoker, maybe? Just not charcoal, but like regular shells. I don't know.
+
+[45:43] I don't know what their smoke tastes like. I don't know, but that's a good point, Piper. I like the way you think. I like the way you think. They were there's a lot of people who are considering using it in places that don't have a lot of wood and that you know can't afford other things.
+
+[46:02] You know what I mean? Although it's an awful lot of peanuts to be cooking from the hulls. But anyway, so maybe someone will give it a uh try and test it out. Okay. Uh Tristan Catcher writes in uh making a Chev uh sorbet cream cheese and Chev uh and syrup, churning it as normal.
+
+[46:18] It's freezing smooth uh when it's fresh, but overnight it goes solid. How should I stabilize it? I don't think you're adding enough sugar. Uh you need to increase the sugar level on it. Uh what I would do if you don't want it to be sweet is to use a low sugar uh sweetener like uh glucose syrup, uh, which has a DE of like what?
+
+[46:35] It's like 40. I think it's like 43. 40, yeah, 40 something, like low DE, low DE glucose syrup, uh, which is gonna have uh very low sweetness level. There are even less sweet things out there, but that are gonna give you the bodying effect you need and the softening effect you need. Uh if it's an actual stabilization problem, I like LBG locust bean gum for that kind of an application.
+
+[46:57] So you just cook the whole thing out with the add the LBG coal, disperse into uh into uh hopefully water or whatever, and then and then cook it, cook it out above about 85, bring it back down. If you add eggs, I guess you didn't, and then it's a sorbet. So anyway, so then and then uh that that should stabilize it and prevent any stabilization problems you have from a texture, but solidity is almost always a uh a sugar balance problem. Would you agree on that? Yeah.
+
+[47:20] If you don't want to add more sugar, another thing you could do, some people do they add alcohol to soften it. I don't actually like to do that because the the um it melts weirdly when you add a lot of alcohol to a sorbet, like it's like holding together and then all of a sudden it's not holding together anymore. It doesn't have the same meltdown that you get from kind of the sugar inhibition melting. At least that's been my experience in life. What about you, Pipes?
+
+[47:43] Do you feel the same way or no? Uh I haven't had too many uh alcohol. Do you have a color? Oh, we have a color? Color, you're on the air.
+
+[47:51] Hey Dave, how's it going? It's JD. Hey, what are we doing? All right, what's up? Hey, I'm doing all right.
+
+[47:55] Uh I just have some questions in terms of um I'm actually uh helping the uh May May Street Kitchen folks. They recently um opened their restaurant. Oh yeah, how's it how's it doing? Like those people. How's it going?
+
+[48:06] Yeah, it's doing pretty well. I'm actually uh trying to help them with some uh uh a circulator issue they have in terms of uh being able to do some 60 64 degrees C eggs in 60 minutes. Uh and I was wondering uh in terms of uh capacity of being able to say run one circulator, and um I'm wondering how many eggs you could run to be able to meet that 60 minute limit if we do the preheat. You're doing a 64? Yeah.
+
+[48:37] Okay. I mean the good news on 64 is it's a lot easier to hit 64 than it is to hit uh 63, right? So the the two easy the two e like the easiest one is sixty-two, because you don't need to ever get the center up to sixty-two. Sixty-four, you need to get it at sixty-four, but if it goes a little bit over, like two tenths, three tenths, it's not a not a big deal. Um but w what why do you only have one hour to do it?
+
+[49:05] Um in terms of just being able to understand the uh the turn time and and be able to prep for service, and that's typically what they're used to. So I guess um the better question would be, you know, trying to maximize the amount of eggs for one circulator uh in a certain duration. So yeah, go ahead. So I I guess that's kind of basically I want to be able to maximize the amount of egg throughput of eggs in a set amount of time. Right.
+
+[49:36] So what I had noticed is that you know they were doing they were trying to do a 60 minute eggs, and they were doing um and they were telling me that it would t it was taking a little bit longer than they expected, and basically what I determined is that uh they weren't preheating the water uh higher than than so what would happen is that they'd have to wait um for 60 eggs, they had to wait 20 minutes for recovery to get back to 64. Yeah, and 64 you need to be at 64 to get a 64. So I mean, a trick that you you know uh that a lot of people do is uh especially if you're doing something like a creme anglaise, it's really high temperature for a circulator, like you know, eighty, eighty-two. Uh they they they'll set it to eighty-five, drop the stuff in, and within a couple of seconds it it drops down. So you can o like over overheat the water, you have to figure out kind of you have to do a lot of you have to do some some checking, some math.
+
+[50:33] I mean, it doesn't take that long to overcook the white on the inside, so it's can be a little problematic, you know, ramping the temperature high enough to really get back fast enough. Another thing you can do is uh well first of all when you're cooking eggs to a specific temperature like sixty four. Um it's again, that's harder than sixty-two, but easier than sixty-three uh in terms of difficulty, not in terms of texture. Um you have to make sure that the eggs aren't piled uh such that the the eggs in the very center aren't getting proper uh water circulation around them uh or it it's just not going to be cooked right so one of the things that's gonna limit the amount of eggs that you can cook is how many layers you can fit where you get water circulation between all the layers of eggs. Like so that's critical, right?
+
+[51:18] Uh to get water circulation between all the layers of eggs if you want them all to cook at the same rate. The second thing you can do and this is I've done this before is you um just keep a pot of bu boiling water near the eggs and then you just add boiling water by the you know by the um you know like you know panful until because that will level out right away and you can get a sense for kind of how long it takes you to get uh back up and you can bale water out and then if you go over you can throw a couple of ice cubes in and you should be able to stabilize the temperature within like three four minutes. You know what I mean? If you have uh boiling water you should be able to get a fairly stable temperature within three four minutes. Now as to how many I've ever done at once with one circulator usually what I'll what I'll do is I mean I've I've done 62s in very non-ideal circumstances where I've done like a hundred you know or more in one shot.
+
+[52:14] It's not ideal but with sixty two you can get away with it. With sixty four I don't know if you can really get away with that. I mean I would probably say maybe maybe see a flat is what thirty six in a flat? Yeah. Is that right?
+
+[52:26] No twenty what's in a flat? Six by six six by six thirty six? One, two, three flats. Yeah, you could probably do three flats. Probably.
+
+[52:36] But you know, the the um the other thing you can really do, and it makes could make your life a lot easier, is to uh just you know run a cycle and then chill them down, run a cycle, chill them down, and then just re-therm them all at service temps. Reserve you know, retherm them at like 50, 55, 50, 56, and then you can just keep them around. There's no need to cook them all at once. If you if you actually have the time, you can cook them beforehand and then therm them up for service. And they only need like 30, 35, 40 minutes at 55 to re-therm enough for service, and then they can hold at a temperature that low at like 55, 56, even up to 57, really, they can hold for uh you know hours and hours and hours and hours, and they're not gonna they're not gonna change their texture at that temperature.
+
+[53:28] You know what I mean? And that that might be a good solution for them. Okay. Um so I had kind of a follow-up question because in terms of the circulation. I was thinking about building uh, say a custom basket to be able to get the circulation you need.
+
+[53:42] You know, basically like wire stacks. And I was wondering um, you know, how effective do you think that would be, as well as um what do I keep need to keep in mind um in terms of you know keeping it um food safe and not, you know, if I wanted to get materials, you know, what would you suggest that would best suit that? Well, I mean, you're gonna make it out of what? Out of out of metal, out of stainless? Yeah, I was thinking stainless.
+
+[54:08] Um you know, I'm not sure. I was gonna maybe try to, you know, maybe throw some fire baskets in, something of that nature, and stack some um, you know, wire racks in between somehow. Fryer baskets rust like a demon. Uh in my in my uh experience, uh they're not as stainless as you would like them to be. I think a lot of them are actually just chromed over.
+
+[54:30] You know what I mean? And so like they they tend to rust. And even most uh cooking grates that are supposedly stainless, like they rust out in the circ over a long period of time. Uh but you know uh you know, they might last uh a while. If I was gonna do full custom job, I would do I would do stainless or I mean I would do stainless.
+
+[54:53] The other alternative would be uh acrylic or polycarb because you're not cooking at that high a temperature and you're not using alcohol. I mean, if you're not if you're not a believer in polycarb because you're worried about um things leaching out if someone cooks if someone cleans it with detergents and starts breaking down the polycarbonate, you could go with acrylic. Acrylic's easy because you can laser cut acrylic. So if you can build something that way, but it's gonna be heavier and more fragile. I mean, stainless is kind of ideal, like wire work stainless, but then you have to find someone who could do the wire work stainless for you.
+
+[55:21] You could make something with fryer baskets, but when people load eggs into fryer baskets, they tend to glom together in the middle and then the ones in the middle are gonna have problems. What no one's really built that would be super sweet is something that mimics a flat of eggs, but it's just made out of like empty wire and then holds the eggs and then has a way to stack the next flat on top of it so that the every egg is in its own little cage. That would be freaking genius. Like I would buy that. Like if you made that, I would buy that.
+
+[55:47] In fact, I should make that if you don't make it. If you're not gonna make it, I'll make that. I won't because I don't have time, but I'm saying like I would buy that. Wouldn't you buy that, Piper? Yeah, we'll get some coat hangers and rubber bands and like the but the the thing is like like uh you want to fit it into you know like you don't want to be d f using a full size Lexan for that.
+
+[56:04] You want to fit it in the half size uh Lexan, right? Because i you know, any time you cook uh enough eggs where you need a full size Lexan, your recovery time is gonna be ridiculous. So I would build something to maximize the um the tall half the half lexans is what I would go for. Yeah, is is Teflon something that you can use or no? Teflon?
+
+[56:22] Good luck. Teflon is first of all extremely expensive. Uh, you know, it it's kind of flexible, it it's impossible to join. Uh so you have to do everything with uh screw fasteners and like I've never machined Teflon, but I don't know how easy it is to machine. It's really expensive, man.
+
+[56:41] Really. Yeah, I would I wouldn't I wouldn't play the Teflon game. Okay, and then in terms of uh just a quick final one. Um, in terms of watching circulation, I I posted you about putting glitter in the in the water, and you said that was a pain in the ass to clean. Is it doable?
+
+[56:57] Yeah. Do you have other suggestions to be able to watch circulation and make sure that it's working properly? I mean, you like you can just throw one or two floaty craps into it and just watch them go around. You know what I mean? Like and because you that all that always happens anyway.
+
+[57:13] In fact, like I'm always like, what the hell found in my in the in the in this bath? And then you have to like kind of scoop it out, and you can get a good feeling for for what's going on. But literally, like one or two little thingamajigs in there is enough to see kind of how the flow works. You can dump, I mean, like Piper, what would you want to dump in if you were gonna dump something that you had to recover later? It's gotta be big enough so it's not gonna get sucked into your circulator.
+
+[57:35] Or small enough that it can get sucked through without a problem. I'll never forget the time that I uh didn't cheese cloth my circulator and I did uh like uh a like I threw the wood chips in to do the wood chip circulator to get the the flavor of the wood chip. Oh my goodness. Oh my god, it's such a nightmare. Oh, such a freaking nightmare.
+
+[57:55] But the oil was good. I mean, that's a good technique, circulating uh uh charred uh charred wood chips in oil for an oil poach. I mean it's good technique. But uh yeah, but it's uh but it was a pain to clean out, let me tell you. Right.
+
+[58:09] Okay, well um that answers all my questions. Thanks for everything and keep up the good work. Uh thanks. Happy Thanksgiving. All right, we uh actually we have to we have to go out now, but uh Elliot Elliot Pappanell wrote in uh on the Twitter uh can you debunk some stock mythology?
+
+[58:25] Because the New York Times just did something on uh on turkey stock. I don't have time to go into all of it now because they're gonna kick us off. Maybe we'll do some of it on the Twitter uh later on, but turkey stock is was that the only Thanksgiving question we've had? Mm-hmm. Well, anyway.
+
+[58:37] Uh should you cook we'll we'll just handle this one. Should you cook your stock uh covered or uncovered? And I'm gonna go ahead and say that uh the only reason to cook a stock uncovered is so that you don't have the problem of it going to a rolling boil without you noticing it, right? Otherwise you would want to keep it covered because that's gonna keep the aromatics in more. Piper, agree or disagree.
+
+[59:01] Agree. Yeah. So like once you get the thing set and you can ensure that you're not gonna get a rolling boil in it, there's no dang point. Well, the other thing is like a lot of people when we're when you're when you t when you let's say you were at the French Culinary Institute, which you were Piper, right? So when they taught you how to make stocks at the French Culinary Institute, what did they do that I hate?
+
+[59:19] Well, uh, I mean, they made an enormous amount at a time. Yeah, and they and and they they're the bones, the bones and meat to water ratio was in my opinion, way the hell off, right? They they made a weak stock. I don't think I can come out on the radio and say that. No, no, I don't mean it in a bad way.
+
+[59:36] They would then reduce it later. Yeah, they would always make a uh higher water volume and then uh reduce it later. Yeah, I'm much more from the James Peterson school. Great did people still read that stuff? He's a great cookbook writer.
+
+[59:48] From his school, which is, you know, don't overwater it to begin with to minimize the amount of reduction you have to do later. And that's the kind of the school of thought I'm in. So if you're you starting with a high water content and you're doing a stock where you're cooking it for a long time, and I I frankly I don't think turkey stock needs to be cooked that long like you do, like the old ones. I just don't. I think a lot of people spend way too much time cooking their poultry stocks.
+
+[1:00:10] Um you should really use a pressure cooker anyway. Uh so they I think they overwater it and then let it reduce some as it's cooking in the pop. I think that's useless, unnecessary. Just add the amount of water that you want and then cover it and sure it doesn't go to a roiling boil. And the reason you don't want a rolling boil is you don't want to emulsify the oils into it as it as it's going and cause it to get cloudier, which doesn't make a damn bit of difference if you're gonna make a gravy out of it, frankly.
+
+[1:00:32] Right. Right. But they also let it rip overnight too. So they yeah, so they want yeah, which you're not gonna do at home. Yeah.
+
+[1:00:38] Whatever. I don't I think you can cover it. That's my feeling. Cover it and then reduce it later if you want to. Yeah.
+
+[1:00:45] Anyway. Happy Thanksgiving. Cooking your shoes! Thanks for listening to this program on heritage radio network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[1:01:07] You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage Radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Underground Meats, an American producer of handcrafted salami and cured meats in Madison, Wisconsin. For more information, visit shop.undergroundfoodcollective.org or stop by their butcher shop in Madison, Wisconsin. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit HeritageRadio Network.org for thousands more. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:34] This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from a birth pizzeria in Brooklyn. Bookwick, Bookwick. I wish it was Bookwick, that would be awesome. Imagine if this is just all bookstores out here. Yeah.
+
+[0:43] But it would all be hipster books. Bushwick Brooklyn on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from roughly 12 to roughly 1245. Joined as usual, Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. No Piper today. Piper is working on the Sears All Project, which is fully funded.
+
+[1:01] Joined also uh although listen, people, I gotta be honest with you. Like that's the that's the goal we set. But uh Stas, tell them tell them the sad truth. If we only make our goal, what happens? We barely break even.
+
+[1:13] Not even yet. Yeah, it's not about breaking even though, it's about getting Sears all to people. But uh we got some exciting news uh on the Sears All. Talk uh a little bit uh later about some things that we're gonna add to stretch goals maybe later today, some ideas that we're working on for it in case you people care. For those of you that don't know about the Sears All, the Sears All is now definitely gonna happen because our Kickstarter was funded.
+
+[1:32] Go on Kickstarter and look at it if you haven't already. It uh it's an attachment that turns an ordinary torch into a powerful handheld broiler that can finish all kinds of low temperature. In fact, I will go so far as to say that, especially if you're at home and you don't own a deck broiler. If you own a uh a circulator, you should probably own a Sears all, right? When you see that Joined in the studio with Jack and Joe today.
+
+[1:54] How are you guys doing? We're good. We got Evan here too, new engineer. Hey Evan, how are you doing? How you how are you enjoying the show so far?
+
+[2:00] Oh, it's fantastic. It's nice. See, it's like stuff, you know, like if Nastasha was an engineer, she'd be like, I don't really know. I don't I'm not paying attention, I don't really care. That's what she would say, right?
+
+[2:10] Oh wow. Yeah, yeah. I guess that's why she doesn't have that job though. Well, he's in the honeymoon period, so great. Okay.
+
+[2:22] Uh a little update uh quick from uh Tom Fisher's uh the ongoing saga of Tom Fisher's eggnog that's been aging. By the way, Stas, our eggnog's been aging, right? Yeah, we tried it yesterday. Oh hey, thanks for letting me have a taste. But listen, there uh in fact I was you could have given me a taste when we were loading out.
+
+[2:39] Anyway, uh the uh I I'm also I probably ruined the eggnog because I said I was gonna bring in nutmeg and I didn't. It's okay. Yeah? Yeah. Why are you not a huge fan of like?
+
+[2:48] No, no, no, we can do it later. Yeah, but do you like a lot of nutmeg or no? Yeah, I do. So how was how was your uh stuff? It was good.
+
+[2:54] Just a little skin coat. It was good. Was you no, was yours better or Piper's better? We threw his out. Oh boom.
+
+[3:02] As soon as Piper's like away working, you like talk about his eggnog like it's garbage. He said, I s we had a clean out of the fridge yesterday. And I said, What about this? And he said, It's garbage about his own negative. Yeah.
+
+[3:15] Yeah. Yeah. Yeah, we can't talk crap about uh Piper on the show because as he says, my mom listens to this show, which I don't think she does. At least they don't have internet TV and the stuff. He's just trying to make us feel better.
+
+[3:25] It's like classic like salty sailor piper talk there, right? That might be true. Makes no sense. It might be a good show on Heritage Radio, Salty Sailor Piper Talk. Yeah, except for the fact is is like he would just stare the microphone down.
+
+[3:37] Like you have to talk into it, Piper, because the people on the other side can't see you just staring, glaring at the microphone. You know what I'm saying? Yep. Anyways. Uh so anyway.
+
+[3:48] So back to Tom Fisher's. Uh for those of you that uh didn't hear the other episode. Do you want to talk about the Mo Fat event first? Well, let me finish the Tom Fisher thing. I can't believe like I'm actually trying to be on task for once, and you're like trying to pull me a tangents.
+
+[4:00] We'll do that in a second. Um, and by the way, we have in the Nice, now I'm now in my brain. It's on a tangent. Thanks. We have some actual underground meats in the studio with us today that uh Stas and I are gonna start tasting during the break and then continue tasting after the break and talk about it.
+
+[4:16] So very excited about that. Uh anyway, back to Tom Fisher's eggnog. For those of you that don't remember, uh Tom Fisher was making an egg uh an aged eggnog, and we talked about the safety of it and then whether or not it would thicken up. In fact, it has thickened. An update on the aged eggnog from a few weeks back.
+
+[4:30] As the recipe indicated, it has thickened and turned from an off white to a slightly beige color. Was yours also beige? Yeah, it was beige. Uh you know, Booker, my son, has to wear a uniform to school every day. Like, and it's this year it's maroon and khakis.
+
+[4:43] And if you don't wear a uniform, he you get detention, right? Which it frightens him because he like he takes a bus home and he's worried he's gonna miss the bus. And he's like extremely nervous about this sort of thing. Uh anywho, so he he calls khakis kahakis. He's like, are these kahakkies?
+
+[4:59] I don't want detention. I'm like, yes, yes, Booker, those are kahakes. Anyway, so slightly beige color. However, milk fat is separated from the eggnog and floated to the surface. It looks and acts and tastes very much like uh like the thickened cheese like milk fat that rises to the top of unhomogenized milk.
+
+[5:15] Should I strain it off and move on? Or is there something nasty going on here? There are no odd smells or tastes. Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving, Tom Fisher. Uh Tom, dude, don't strain that sucker off.
+
+[5:26] Whisk that fat back in, baby. You want the fat and the egg, no, you like did you get a uh crap on top? No. Well, if you had, wouldn't you whisked it back in? Yeah, you they uh you missed the you missed the important third choice there, Tom.
+
+[5:38] Stir that stuff back in. Uh, you know, it's interesting. I don't know why it destabilized, uh whatever. Just stir it back in. I'm sure it's delicious.
+
+[5:45] Uh I did have an okay thing. Is this our first one thing since Thanksgiving? Yeah. Wow, it seems like so long ago. How was your Thanksgiving stuff?
+
+[5:50] Good. It was good. I saw you posted uh like the entire family searing on the Sears. Yeah? Yeah, they really loved it.
+
+[5:55] Yeah, I like that there's a picture that Nastasha sent me of her mom using the Searzole, and then the the caption, which not shareable in public, of what she was shouting while she was using, unrelated to the cerezol, by the way. Like completely like like a diet tribe completely unrelated to the actual series. No, it was because my dad was like, you need to hold it close. You need to hold it close. And then she was like She like went off.
+
+[6:15] I love it. Like, can you can you share any of it with us? No. No, you know what she said. She did her famous F you speech.
+
+[6:24] You know, uh the uh the apple doesn't fall far from the tree on this one. And one thing I've learned that Piper somehow is not for years working with you is like when you're using the Sears all, like trying to give you pointers, I'm like, Piper, are you dunce? Like you don't t you don't tell Nastasha how to use the Sears all while she's using it, right? That's a non-start. Right.
+
+[6:41] It's a non-starting, non-starting thing. Uh by the way, do we have Pierre on the phone yet? Yes. We do? Oh, awesome.
+
+[6:48] So listen here. So uh let's get Pierre on the phone. Uh we're joined uh via phone today. A good friend of ours, Pierre Cham, who is uh uh a chef here in New York and also uh, you know, from originally from Senegal, has what I think is the only at least the only, you know, one that I know of that's you know, good uh Senegalese cookbook in English uh on the market here in uh in the US it's an excellent book it's also beautiful the pictures are beautiful and having gone to Sen he he was the the chef who sponsored the trip that we went over to Senegal uh which was uh fantastic trip um and anyway Pierre uh uh glad to have you on the show how you doing hey Dave I'm well yeah good good I by the way uh you know I was reading uh I had a qu the reason I called you today is uh we had a a question regarding um TB gen coming in and so I figured which by the way for those of you that don't know like it's kind of the national dish of Senegal wouldn't you say Pierre? It is the national dish.
+
+[7:49] You wanna you want to describe it really quickly for the folks? Uh Chebujan is a wall of wood that translates simply rice and fish but it's a little more complex than that. It's um I would say it's kind of a version of a paella you know if you go to the north of Senegal that's where you see some other seafood involved with it. But the simple Chebujin is really a a fish a firm white flesh fish could be a grouper could be a snapper sometimes blue fish you know it depends. And it's stuffed with a parsley mixture.
+
+[8:26] The fish is stuffed with a parsley mixture and it's cooked in a broth that has tomatoes and all the vegetables that are cooked that comes with a chewin must be root vegetables yucca sweet potatoes cabbage and um okra and then the that same broth we cook rice in it. So the rice is cooked in that slow red tomato broth and it comes with the uh the the rice comes out right bright red. That's why I was making the connection with fire. So um that's basically what it is. You have a rice, red rice, a fish that's stuffed with parsley, uh parsley mixture, and the broth that has uh cooked first all the uh root vegetables and the fish and it finishes with uh a a ta such a tamarind actually.
+
+[9:13] So it has a uh uh uh uh a sweet and sour end to the to the whole to the whole dish. Right, but they also like the the the characteristic like when you go to Senegal, right? Or the the what's amazing is the different kinds of uh fermented products. Yes, absolutely. Right.
+
+[9:33] So I mean the geg with without the geg you don't have yourself a t bajin, right? No, no, no, no, absolutely, absolutely. You you're getting deep there, but you're right, the geg is a a big component of the chewujan. When you cook that broth, you add the geg to it, and um and uh the the geg is in the in the in the the tomato broth that I mentioned and uh the yet as well, another uh fermented conch. The geg is a fermented fish and the yet is a fermented conch.
+
+[10:03] And both of these add that umami flavor to the chewujan, and that's very, very important. You just put a a small portion of the get because it's very very potent and very very strong. So that's that's what uh makes that uh fermented flavor to the chewujan. Right, it's potent and strong, and for people who aren't used to it, it's you know, they're like a little freaked out by the aroma, but it's the stuff is straight up delicious. The yet, especially, I mean the geg you I guess you can eat the chunks straight a lot, but the yet I can eat that after it's been like braised, I can just eat it a lot of it.
+
+[10:35] It's good. I love it. It's it's uh it's an acquired taste for some people, but I mean you and I, we we really are adventurous, and I love the gadget. The yet the yet is like, you know, it's it's has that chewiness, but it's also fermented, so it breaks quite quite easy. If it's cooked for a long time, it it it breaks and digests pretty easily.
+
+[10:53] It's delicious. I love it. Yeah, I mean, uh another but before we get to the actual question, since you know we have you on the phone, we don't get to have you on the phone very often. There's a lot of spices over there that I think have uh so I mean obviously uh you know, yet and geg are not uh vegetarian, but there's a lot of fermented products in uh in Senegalese food that are really, really, really good for vegetarian cooking that have not become popular with chefs over here. And I think the one that strikes pops right into my head right away is netutu.
+
+[11:29] Yes, absolutely. Netetu is actually it's a locust uh uh from a tree, right? It's not a a locust uh an animal. Yeah, it's like a legume uh pod from a tree, yeah. Exactly, yeah.
+
+[11:42] Uh we call it netetu, but the fruit itself is called nere. And after the fermentation process, that becomes metetu. Um and uh and also it's uh it's it's it's uh it adds an amazing flavor. It's very popular throughout West Africa, it's not only in Senegal, but you see it in in in Mali, in Guinea, even in Nigeria, and that's uh you know, it comes with different names, but that's the same exact uh uh um legume, fermented legume, and it's good for vegetarian. There's no no no no no animal in it.
+
+[12:13] Yeah, and uh I mean in rice dishes, in broths, it can all of a sudden you know how like a lot of times a vegetarian rice dish, it's sometimes difficult to get the kind of power of flavor and umami you want. Nettitude, bang. Delicious, right? Um uh it's amazing. You know, even you know, the uh one one way to prepare the netitude that I particularly like is in the south of Senegal in Casamas, which next time we definitely have to make it to that part of Senegal, Dave, next time you go to Senegal.
+
+[12:38] But you know how they cook it? They cook the rice, you know, uh just a simple rice, white rice, let's say, and at the end of the cooking process, when the water has evaporated, you open your pot, you the the cover, the cover of the rice, and you you dig a hole in the middle of the rice, and that nettetu, which you have uh mixed with onion to make it uh, you know, uh grated onion to make it into a bowl, a liquid uh uh uh uh a thick paste, and that thick paste is just buried in inside the rice, and you just close it back and you allow it to sit there for like ten minutes. No fire, just ten minutes. The the rice steaming with that nettetu, that nettetu bowl. I do you picture the the the what I'm trying to say?
+
+[13:24] Yeah, yeah. It's very it's very simple. But does it perfume the whole thing? Pardon? Does it perfume the whole thing?
+
+[13:31] It perfumes it perfumes the whole thing. It's uh and the netatou bowl itself has that uh a very, very flavorful rice slash cement. It's just an amazing I it's really difficult to describe. You have to taste it, but it's it's delicious. Could you could you do it in a rice cooker?
+
+[13:49] Oh yes, absolutely, you can do it in the rice cooker. Again, once the water has evaporated, you just dig a hole in the rice, in the middle of the rice, and you put that bowl of netatou that you mix with with onion, just simply knit it to an onion, you can add some chili pepper to bring some heat to it. But you make a small bowl, you know, the size of a less than a half of a fist, and you put it in the middle of the rice in and you close it back. Do you use the uh the powdered netted too, the seeds or the whole pods? The the powdered nitty too is fine, the whole pot is fine, but the powdered nitty too, which is easier to have here in New York, you know, in the African market, and that's all you use, the powdered nitty, and that's why you add the onion, because the onions bring that the the the the juice of the onion would make it into a paste into uh you know and the and the paste you can for for shape it into a bowl, and that little bowl is the what you what you put into the rice.
+
+[14:40] Right. For people who go out, and I hope they do go to you know fine local African markets and buy the netitude. Do not judge, do not judge what's gonna happen to the food you cook based on the initial dry smell of the netitu. It's totally different once it's cooked. Completely, completely.
+
+[14:58] Yeah, that would I would not I mean don't smell it, I guess. That would turn you off. You know, it's very strong, like I say, it's very, very potent. But David, you tasted it and uh you know the difference. It's uh it's a drastic difference.
+
+[15:11] It brings so much flavor to any dish, any dish, vegetarian dishes, you'll feel like you know you you haven't had anything vegetarian before because it's strictly vegetarian, but it's so much so much flavor again, so much taste. And another thing over there that I thought was really interesting was uh they eat I don't even know the name of it, but these fermented onion balls, these dried fermented onion balls that are like they look like kind of crushed, they look like just chopped up onions in balls and fermented. We we bought them in a in a market. Yeah, and they they you know what they that's the one they add some nitty to it. They fermented are you are we talking about the one with it's already shaped, right?
+
+[15:52] Yeah, in a bowl or it's it's yeah, it's already shaped in a ball and dried, so it's very similar to what you're saying, just a dried version of it? Uh uh exactly, yes, yes, yes, exactly. Those are delicious. It's great. It's delicious.
+
+[16:03] Yes. I'm glad you remember those. Yeah. They they they're amazing. They're really amazing.
+
+[16:07] I didn't know they had the net too in it already. Yeah, that stuff is great. Uh it's amazing. Another another spice that you don't get over here very often that's more specialized for the cafe tuba. Although I'm I'm thinking I'm trying to get that on the menu at uh at Booker and Dax at the bar is the uh here's another thing.
+
+[16:21] Like Wolof words are impossible for uh English, you know, American English people to pronounce. I literally sat there for about 10 minutes with the seller, if you remember this, trying to pronounce the spice, and I would think I was saying exactly what he was saying, but I wasn't. Jar. I can't pronounce it. So like I don't how do you how do you say it in real life?
+
+[16:43] Jar. Jar. Yeah. Jar. Jar.
+
+[16:45] Yeah, and no, they're like jar. He's like, no, no, no, jar. I'm like. Yeah, yeah, yeah. I can't get it.
+
+[16:51] It's impossible to get. It's funny. Yeah, you should you should I I can definitely taste your cocktails at the book and that's with that spice, is jar. I mean, uh, I need her. Remember Anita, she came to the festival with us.
+
+[17:06] Yeah, we're talking about Anita Lowe, by the way, folks. Uh, really amazing uh chef here in New York. Go ahead. Yeah, she had a special uh with the jar at her restaurant for for quite some time. It was very popular, and she made a salad with it, with beets and goat cheese.
+
+[17:20] Uh very, very creative. And cocoa, cocoa powder too. I I I was amazed by by the flavor. Well, the the interesting thing about it is it's got a lot of notes of it's got some peppery notes, but it also has some more resin notes and s almost some like a kind of uh almost I don't know, cardamomine notes and resin notes, but it's right but it's not at all like and people confuse it, it's not at all like what we call uh Balinese long peppers totally different totally different flavor it's not um and and I I I read in in English that uh the translation into English is get this one Pierre grains of Salim. But I don't know if that's true or false because you know what?
+
+[18:01] I that's the first time I heard about it at Anita actually she she mentioned that when she was trying to translate it on her menu. She did say grain of Salim but I didn't know that. You know I really didn't know and just I didn't know that's what it was called in English. But I you know it's called that in English maybe but no one uses it in English speaking countries so there's no point. I think it's much better to try and use the Woloff word.
+
+[18:23] The problem is none of us can pronounce it properly uh but you know they they use it there in the in the in the cafe tuba which is a great you know a great and very distinctive kind of Senegalese uh drink f uh the Morides uh you know the this Sufi brotherhood which by the way they're extremely uh they they're like why don't you you want to talk about the man it's not really food but give me give me a couple words on the Morides. Oh me oh you're talking about about the Mouri the Morides are like um a a Sufi brotherhood like you say Senegalese Muslims are mostly from two two families and they're all Sufis. Um you don't really have the traditional strictly Sunnis in Senegal and that's also one of the reasons why the the country is very tolerant because uh you know they they transcend the the strictly orthodox uh type of Islam as you you probably noticed they when you're in Senegal, you know, it's pretty you know, i it doesn't strike to you strike to you as like it's strict Muslim country. It's a it's it's it's a ninety percent Muslim country, but most of them are Sufis, you know, so they they are very tolerant of all the religions, you know, uh you know, it's uh it's also uh uh uh a lake country, it's not an Islamic country per se. So you can you have your drinks, you can have your you know, the the any the bars are open, you know.
+
+[19:45] Uh to make a long story short, the Murids are following uh uh uh a man called Amadou Bamba who who came to Senegal during the colonial time and he had a pacific type of resistance could be compared to mu uh to Gandhi in India, for instance. And uh and uh they they they they're growing, they're becoming they probably are right now the the largest uh Sufi group in the country. They're very powerful, they're self-reliable, they they they're very entrepreneurial. You know, you see a lot of Murids traveling the world. You see many of the people you'd see, the Senegalese you'd see selling in the streets of of New York City or Hong Kong or Paris are mostly Moorids and they they you know they they they uh that's uh like I said, entrepreneurial group and this coffee that uh we're talking about the drink that we're talking about, is called Cafe Tuba and Tuba is the name of the the holy city of the Murid.
+
+[20:43] You know, that's a city that's a couple hours from Dakar. The Murids believe that Tuba is uh is going to Tuba is as good as going to to the to Mecca, you know, the Murids go to Tuba, they don't go to Mecca in pilgrimage for instance. Um so basically that's uh you know, in two minutes, that's what the Murids are. Alright. And uh our question, by the way, uh to get back to the question if someone answered, the reason that we're on the uh on the phone together, uh they're gonna be talking about rice.
+
+[21:11] Now we yeah, as we said, Tibijan is rice and fish, rice incredibly important to it. Usually typically would have been made back in the day with broken rice, right? To thicken it up more than that. Oh, it is still make made in with broken rice in Senegal, but you can make it with with uh you know, with with regular jadmin rice or that's not the rice. But in Senegal, uh the the two Chebugen is with broken rice, yes.
+
+[21:33] Right. So that's gonna release some of the starch in while it's cooking, which is going to be important for the thing that's coming up. But before I get into the question, um, so for those of you that don't know kind of Senegalese geography at all, Tacazamans is in the south, right? And uh and you know what Pierre was saying, the kind of the heart of Tibou Gen is in uh San Luis, which is in the very north on the river, right? Yes, all right.
+
+[21:57] So uh or not the n or it's well it's in the northern part anyway, right? San Luis is north. Yeah, yeah, it is by the river, you're right. So um so the the point is is that in Casamance, what a lot of people don't uh think about is that the original rice of Casamance is not Asian rice. The original rice of Casimans is uh is Glaberima rice, which was uh actually domesticated um in Africa, and I think probably in Senegal and Gambia at the s right?
+
+[22:30] I mean that's originally where it comes from. Uh that's right. Now, those rices have been even locally, except for in small areas, completely uh replaced, unfortunately, and that's with uh with Asian rice, correct or not correct? That's correct, yes. Now would Thibu Gen originally have been made with the Glaberima, or would or is that uh in other words, do they would they also have had the Glabarima up in San Louis, or would it always there have been made with uh the Asian rice?
+
+[22:58] No, no, no. It was always the Glabarina until until colonial time until we started to import rice that originally came from the other part of the French colonial empire, like the whole Vietnam region, and now our rice is unfortunately imported. I think unfortunately because people prefer to import rice rather than using the local and it's in for imported from from Indonesia and you know Southeast Asia. But uh originally no the rice came from from Cazamas, from the the same region 'cause it wasn't only Cazamat and Gambia, but you know, you had the Glaberima is also in Guinea, in Sierra Leone, in in Liberia. It was the African rice, you know, and that rice is as ancient as far as uh you know um anthropologists are concerned, is as ancient as the Asian rice.
+
+[23:46] So, you know, so we have two families, two major families of rice, the the the African rice and the in the Southeast Asian rice. Right that came about the same time. You know, I don't remember because we didn't look at we didn't get to go to Casmans when I went there, but I don't know that we even had Glabarema when we're over there, did we? I I thought we probably didn't know. We didn't have Glabarima because again, like I said, the whole northern part of Senegal is is is i is eating imported rice.
+
+[24:15] Remember one of the reasons why we we we had this event is to we just pro promote local cuisine and to and to to to showcase what we really have and and and and and to change the the the the the people ways of thinking that when it comes from elsewhere it's better than what we have at home and that's unfortunately the case in in in in many of the cities in Africa, you know, we import a lot of our food and and and the local goods are eaten by the in the country by the by the r you know the rural area but in the urban areas people think it's best to order to import food from from from elsewhere and uh and the the Asian rice is still very very popular in the northern part of Senegal in Seneca in St. Louis in Dhaka and it's competing with the the tradition of the glaberima that because the Glabarima is still being grown in a very artisanal way. So it's not industrial it just comes a few months out of the year like a couple months when the harvest comes and then you know it's it's finished. But it's it's uh you know it's changing gradually now it's people are people are realizing that not only glabarema is healthier rice but it has a another flavor that you unfortunately you you didn't get to to experience when we were there. I'm trying to find a way to bring some glab arema here in New York and we will definitely have a taste of it.
+
+[25:41] Yeah sure you know get New Yorkers like uh like me that pay uh a premium for it and then maybe it'll get more respected where where it comes from except for then you might have the uh whatever when I was over there everyone was talking about the quinoa problem. You make something that's popular and then all of a sudden the people who make it and r rely on it can no longer afford it. So it's it's very hard to win. You know what I mean? It has it's hard to win but you know that's a good problem to have hopefully the quinoa experience will help us deal with you know with that problem before it it it it occurs.
+
+[26:12] But uh it's really something we need to to to to work on because that would be so unfortunate to to have you know cities like this disappear because of you know competition. They they great cities. Alright, so listen, we have a caller who's we're gonna we're gonna take them together, Pierre, whatever the caller's gonna ask. But uh then after that, before we go to break, we're gonna get to the question, which is about the crispy rice at the bottom of the T Bougen. Someone wants to know how to make it, and so I figure the best way is to get uh official Senegalese cook on the on the rib.
+
+[26:45] But LaCaller, you're on the air. Hello. Hey. Yeah, I have a couple questions on low time cooking. Oh sure.
+
+[26:54] Specifically I have a few friends that are pregnant, and I'm wondering uh about trade-offs and cooking to pasteurizer or being safe when cooking for people that are pregnant. Um and you know, balancing for like fish, beef and chicken against you know, texture and quality. Yeah. Um, and then also wondering about you know, storage guidelines for uh low temp cooking, so without a vacuum. Right.
+
+[27:18] So when I'm cooking for uh pregnant people with a circulator, which I have a lot, um when you're cooking eggs for Benedicts, just cook them at 62 for a full hour and they're good. You're safe. Um when you're doing any other meat cuts, I go to pasteurization temperatures. So like for a 55 degree steak, you're gonna want to let it go for probably uh I mean it's it's overkill, but once the core reaches uh the temperature, like a hundred and twenty minutes or something like that, that's actually overkill, but I like to overkill when I'm dealing with this because you don't want it to be your fault. So it's gonna take you sear the you sear the outside, uh, you know, you you and then you cook it.
+
+[28:00] Um it'll you know, a normal size rib steak will probably start its uh kill uh kill stuff within uh at the center it'll start killing within probably thirty you know, forty minutes or so, and then uh after it reaches that killing stage, you hold it for the hundred and twenty. For this kind of a thing, I really recommend getting one of the uh iPhone or iPad apps like Sous V dashboard or the you know the poly science one because they're good at uh just figuring out exactly based on the thickness, like how long it's gonna take to get to a temperature. When it comes to fish, fish is kind of a pain in the butt. It's impossible to pasteurize most fishes and still have them taste good. Uh fish is fish.
+
+[28:38] Uh and uh so uh ones that can tolerate it are the firm flesh white fish. So stripers are good. Um because you can cook a striper, you know, at 55, 56, 57. It's firm, it may be firmer than you normally like to cook it, but it's still it hasn't gone dry. And the meteor white fish like that are better when they're overcooked as opposed to uh, you know, overcooked uh, you know, tuna is wretched, or you know, overcooked salmon even at those temperatures is pretty wretched.
+
+[29:07] But a striper can kind of put up with that sort of uh thing. So those things can be um those things can be done. The if you don't have a vacuum, the question you know, you putting it in a ziploc, uh I you know uh it's hard for me to give actual guidelines for uh storage times. I've I'm always like when I'm cooking for someone, I'm kind of like just hyper about it. Uh when I'm cooking for either pregnant or someone who's, you know, i h hospitalized or sick.
+
+[29:33] So I tend not to store things for a long time unless I have to, because I'm the only person that can cook for them and I only see them once a week, and you should be okay for that, especially if they're doing a retherm. And if they do a re-therm, they can do like a temporary retherm in uh in like a really hot bath before they bring it up slowly to temperature, and you should be all right. Does that uh answer the questions? Um yeah, thank you. And and I'm in for a few dollars.
+
+[29:57] And what? Oh, really cool, awesome. Yeah. Uh sweet, sweet. Well, uh enjoy it.
+
+[29:59] Enjoy it. We're gonna we'll talk more about it either later or uh next next week about kind of some new uses we found and where we are in the uh in the thing. But thanks so much for backing us. Have a good one. All right, thanks.
+
+[30:11] Alright, Pierre, here we are, back on the back on the rice in the Tibu gen. Okay, so this word, which is wall off, which uh I will not uh will not attempt to pronounce X O O and then N with the N on it. How do you say that? The r crispy rice at the bottom. Horn.
+
+[30:36] It's cl close to the Spanish uh jota, you know. Oh man, that's that's that's impossible. It's that's impossible here. So to backtrack in case you know you're just joining in. So Tiva Gen, you take your rice, uh you take your fish, you slice it, you stuff it with uh like a herb mixture, you cook it a little bit with oil and onions, then you uh make a broth, and then you put the rice in you cook with tomato, you cook it with the broth and the root vegetables, the the rice soaks up the liquid, but in the bottom of the pot you get this crispy say that again?
+
+[31:13] And and for many people this is their favorite part, yes? Oh yes, it's uh it's a must. You know, perfect kibujen, you have to have that golden crust, golden brown crust from the bottom of the pot when you cook the chibujan, it comes on the side. And uh, and that that's really is a great way to enjoy your your chubby and it adds texture to it, it. It has that crispy texture to the to the to the moist rice, and um I I love it.
+
+[31:41] I really love it. That's so much flavor to it. So give me the secrets. Is it the the pot, the heat, the combination of the heat in the pot? Is it the oil that goes in the bottom?
+
+[31:44] I mean, I'm sure the oil has something to do with it, but just tell us like the secrets to get a good one. Absolutely, the oil, the oil and the pot. You know, when you when you cook it first, you start when you start the chubby and you start with the oil and the tomatoes. Right? You cook the oil and the tomatoes, allow it to cook slowly until the tomatoes are cooked.
+
+[32:10] You know, you could use tomato and tomato paste actually. And you allow it to cook slowly, slowly until the tomato goes from red to like really dark red, almost black. But you don't want to burn it. You don't want to burn it. But as you cook it, if you see that it's starting to burn, add water a little bit at a time, like a tablespoon to two tablespoons at a time.
+
+[32:32] But slowly, you know, that's before you add your water that's going to cook the rice and the vegetables and everything else. You have to cook only oil and tomato. Am I making sense here? Yeah, yeah, yeah. So once you cook it to that point where the tomatoes are cooked and the sugar is released, because you should release sugar.
+
+[32:52] You realize you realize there's a caramelization that's happening. That's why the tomatoes going from red to almost black, but not black. You don't want it to be burnt again. But that sugar is going to that sugar combination of the sugar and the oil are going to be the the the the agent that will crisp your rice. Yeah.
+
+[33:15] And you know, there's there's uh like a lot of cultures have this love of the crispy bottom of the of the thing. In uh Iranian cooking, you have the you know you know, they have the crispy stuff at the at the bottom. Uh, you know, I think they they use binders like egg and yogurt in theirs, right? They cook it and then they do the egg and the yogurt. I forget, it's been a long time since I've looked up the recipes for that stuff.
+
+[33:36] And then also in South South Carol, you know, cooking of South Carolina, on the old style, which probably is all from uh West Africa anyway, uh, you know, though they have these crispy, uh crispy casserole rice dishes. The difference is Tibou Gen is not turned out like a like a like a casserole dish. It's like it's uh it's scooped out of the pot and then the crust is served separately, right? It's presented on a platter, yeah. It is served separately, exactly.
+
+[34:02] So separately, or if you eat around in a bowl like we eat traditionally, it's served on the corner of the bowl, you know. It's it's it comes on a platter, but uh you know they put it on the corner to to the people who will be eating the crust. Because not everyone eats the crust, you know. We try to like take it for, you know, the the mature people. You don't give it to the kids, you give it to the older kids.
+
+[34:22] So it's just the whole the whole cultural thing behind behind you know who's allowed to have part of that crust. Another interesting thing about the crust I'm wondering is is that you know, one of the strange things about uh about uh Senegalese cooking right now that I you know I just heard from you know listening to the we went to a seminar about it, uh is that people are using more and more oil, not for the taste, but just as a sign of being able to use the more oil in it. And do you think that's affecting the way that the the crust is being formed in general in the average Tibu Jan or affecting cooking in general in Senegal and the way things taste now versus the way they would have tasted uh you know eighty, a hundred years ago? It it is affecting it is it's affecting the way people, yeah, the way people are eating. It's for some reason it is seen seen as a sign of of um of wealth.
+
+[35:12] You know, it's the more oil you use, the more uh affluent you are. Um that's something that came up, I believe, also again in colonial times, and gradually when peanut oil arrives, you know, peanut oil at first it was palm oil for us, you know, traditional palm food oil was our our oil of choice. And uh and peanut oil became something uh pretty pretty popular with less year, you know, the French factories came and they made peanut oil, and peanut was also one of those uh you know crops that was uh people don't realize that peanut was was imported to Senegal. It was not uh a traditional Senegalese crop. You know, it came from the Americas as a matter of fact.
+
+[35:57] We had we had something similar to peanut groundnuts, you know, but uh it wasn't it wasn't as uh it wasn't used the way peanut oil is used right now. So anyway, it became a sign of affluence because again, you know, we want it to be like the colonials, so you know, as the colonials use that oil we use, the more we use, the more affluent we are. And it it can it came into our our recipes too, and now you see people using more peanut oil into their rice. And uh it came it also it also brought some some some diseases. Unfortunately, some diseases got imported with it.
+
+[36:34] You see um diabetes, for instance, which wasn't part of our you know of the illnesses that existed in Senegal. It's something that's very popular now because of that change of diet, you know, and uh the excess of sodium, all those things uh uh are uh ch uh affecting the the the the population uh unfortunately due to the change of diet again. But um the to get back to your question with the honey the crust and the oil, that's really the the oil is very important to it, but it doesn't have to be uh in excess, you know, it's important to have the first step to when you prepare that rice. The oil and the tomato starting the cooking process have enough oil but it shouldn't be uh, you know, more than uh a couple of tablespoons of oil, you know, for uh a a nice part of rice. And you cook it slowly, again cook it slowly before you add once the tomatoes are cooked and nicely caramelized, then you add your water, allow the water to boil and then you add the rice.
+
+[37:39] And you cook and you close the rice at that stage and you just close it and lower the the the heat, you know, to a similar just like you would cook regular rice. And you forget about it. Now don't touch that part until all the water, all the juice, that tomato broth has evaporated. Once it has evaporated, still allow it to sit for a moment and uh then you fluff your rice, you redistribute the tomato, you have your bright red rice and you realize at the bottom of that pot that crust, that cone that we're talking about has formed, you know. So you pull out the rice and with the spoon, you know, you just take out the crust, you know with you know it takes some some other strength to it but you pull out the crust with the and just rake the bottom of that part.
+
+[38:31] And that's how you get the crust, you know, just allow it to cook slowly. First of all, just again, and let the tomato cook and caramelize before you add the rice. And then do not touch it, do not stir it. Let the let the crust form in the bottom. Very, very, very, very simple process, actually.
+
+[38:50] Alright, well, beautiful, Pierre. Pierre's book has a recipe for Tibujan in it. Is Yolele, right? Yolele is still available right now on Amazon. It's got means it's the only one available, right?
+
+[39:01] It's the only one in English available, yes. And uh, yeah. And uh as a matter of fact, there's another book coming up next for we're working on it. Still uh uh the uh working title Senegal from the source to the table. You'll hear about it, baby.
+
+[39:16] All right, well, come come on the show and we'll push it. Absolutely will. All right, thanks, Pierre. Thanks for talking. Uh talking crust.
+
+[39:25] I can't pronounce that. All right, we're gonna take a commercial break and we'll be right back. Thanks, Pierre. Thanks, Dave. Underground Meats is an American producer of handcrafted salami and cured meats in Madison, Wisconsin.
+
+[39:58] They use small farms from southwest Wisconsin to source their meat. The animals are raised on pasture for their entire lives by farmers who care about animal welfare. While underground meats uses European traditions, they also use ingredients from the upper Midwest to try to create new types of salamis, experimenting with both ingredients and techniques. The salamis are made using heritage breeds, mostly red wattles, tamworts, berkshirs, and mule Foots. Try their award-winning cured pork shoulder and goat salami.
+
+[40:28] To learn more and purchase products, visit shop.undergroundfoodcollective.org. Or stop by their butcher shop in Madison, Wisconsin. And we're back. Welcome to Cooking Issues, or welcome back to Cooking Issues. So we're tasting the underground meats, and uh let me get this straight.
+
+[41:00] The ones that they sent us are all they're all goat, you said? Pretty sure it's all goat salami, right? Yeah. Salumi. Goat goat loomy.
+
+[41:09] And so we're tasting what are we tasting here, Stas? That one is Pinocchio. You just had pepper. These things are good. These things are good.
+
+[41:18] Now, for those of you that don't know, Underground Meats recently had a Kickstarter of their own. Uh, and they have successfully funded it, and they are now gonna work on a hasset plan uh so that they can get Hassb certification, they can do challenge uh studies again, and then everyone can use it. So look for these guys to help anyone listening to create a hassle plan that's gonna allow them to um make their own salami business without having to go through all the expense. Which one's this one, Stu? That one is goat salami, just goat salami.
+
+[41:54] And then this one is sacion sec. That goat salami is good business. What do you think? I haven't had any yet. She had to take out take out her gum.
+
+[42:07] It's really good. Really good stuff. Alright. So I mean the obvious thing tasting it, I'm not gonna like torture you guys with sitting here eating. I'll wait until we're off mic torch and just sitting here eating uh delicious salumi.
+
+[42:26] Uh but you gave the web address, undergroundmeats.com. What undergroundmeats.com. Is that good? Yeah. So anyway, so the point is that um you taste it.
+
+[42:37] It's um, you know, most of them anyway, the ones that are intended are um a low acid product, which means a lot of times when you're having uh salumi or someone produces, they just try to uh they jack the acidity right away to kill off anything that's in it. And it also kind of covers up faults in the meat and faults in the curum, but from a very high acid kind of salami. You've had that happen before, Stas, right? When you eat someone's salami plate, it's just super high acid, lactic acid is. Uh and uh these um, you know, at least a lot of them from the ones I've tasted so far, don't taste like super high acid.
+
+[43:08] They're really taking a lot of care uh in it. Uh and you can you could tell that they really care about what they're doing. It's a delicious product. Stas is no longer gonna be listening because she's just pounding something. All right, all right.
+
+[43:20] All right, okay. Uh oh, we should talk about uh we should talk we have only a couple minutes left, I guess. We should talk about um the MoFad event. So MoFad, the Museum of Food and Drink, uh is doing its so we have the puffing gun, which is kind of going underground right now, but they're uh we're rejiggering it again to be able to take it to schools, hopefully after the um winter break. They call it winter break now, it's winter break.
+
+[43:44] Oh, by the way, if you're out there, uh, we don't actually have a way to send you a uh do you know I was realizing this on the Sears all uh on the thing that we're doing? That um we said we were gonna send people cards for Christmas. We don't have their email addresses. They don't Kickstarter doesn't give you the email addresses until the Kickstarter is over. So I don't know how the heck we're gonna do that we gotta we gotta figure that out.
+
+[44:03] I was gonna say we could send you you know, you still have a couple days left to purchase a future Sears All as a as a Hanukkah present for somebody, so if you want to but we can't say we can't send you a card saying blah blah, we can put one up that people can print out. Yeah. You know what I'm saying? Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[44:19] Well, this is a holiday card. Holiday card. Well, well, if someone buys it for Hanukkah, it's not a holiday card, it's a freaking Hanukkah card. If someone buys it for Christmas, it's a it's a and if someone has a generic holiday, then we will send them a generic holiday card. No?
+
+[44:30] Sure. No? Anyway. I mean, if you can be specific, be specific. If you cannot be specific, be generic.
+
+[44:37] No? Mm-hmm. Is that is that a bad thing? No, I well, we can do that. Okay.
+
+[44:42] Uh so uh we have uh we have a question. Oh museum. Museum food and drink. On Thursday, we have our first ever forum that we're running. Uh I'm gonna be the moderator.
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+[44:53] So uh, you know, Peter Kim, the uh director of the museum there specifically tells me that I'm not supposed to interject any actual personal opinions into this, which is gonna be f it's gonna be very difficult. I'm not used to not interjecting personal opinions. But uh the whole point is is that we are um we're trying to have a debates wi about food where we actually get both sides of the argument in and not just freak show hacks, but uh, you know, uh paper tigers and whatnot to fight each other, but real as smart uh uh smart as and as good a people as we can get from either side of a debate to come together in a moderated discussion uh in front of people that we're gonna record and then um later make available to everyone who can't be there. And the first and one that we're gonna tackle is the soda van. And do you have the information for that, Steph?
+
+[45:39] Yeah, I do. So it's this Thursday, uh December fifth at 6 30 p.m. at the CUNY School of Public Health. It's free online if you go to roundtable.mofad.org. And it's hosted by Dave, and there's um Joel Berg from the NYC Coalition Against Hunter Hunger, Nicholas Freudenberg from the NYC Food Policy Center, some guy named Park Wilde from Tufts University.
+
+[46:04] Some guy. Well, I mean it's Justin Wilson for the Center for Consumer Freedom and Lisa Young from NYU. So it should be a spirited uh debate and uh, you know, it uh some guy. Some guy, some place, tufts. Some guy.
+
+[46:21] It doesn't say his position. Yeah, alright, alright. Anyway, so that should be fun, and we'll report back uh and tell you how to uh tune in to listen to the thing that's covering it. Yeah, I'm gonna be there. Sweet.
+
+[46:32] So uh you excited, Joe? I am. I'm really excited. Should I should I get all frothy at the mouth and like uh like we have to ch I've never moderated, I have to choose a moderation style. Do I want to be like the total like mellow moderator?
+
+[46:44] Do I do I go like Tim Russell? I don't think you can be mellow in this situation. But I mean, what do you do? Tim Russert style? You remember Tim Russert?
+
+[46:51] Be like um Charlie Rose. Yeah, that'd be good. What about what about Piers Morgan? No, he gets involved. But yeah, but like that's the thing.
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+[47:00] Like that's that's about as least involved as I could get. It's probably kind of like a Piers Morgan kind of a situation. I would like to see you really try to not like people won't know either. You know what? Stas doesn't care about the actual quality of the event.
+
+[47:12] She only wants to see me squirm and not interject my opinion. That's the only thing she really cares. I know your opinion. Oh. I think you should show up in like an umpire baseball umpire uniform.
+
+[47:22] I take that route. I thought you were gonna say a yellow unitard. Well, that that would also be interesting. I don't dress in unitards anymore. Uh okay.
+
+[47:29] So uh we have that going on, and then we have to take a question in because uh I don't want to run out of time before we do it. Um here's the question uh from Zach in Pittsburgh. Uh I know you love stock. Please help me out. Some places say use roasted bones for a tasty stock.
+
+[47:46] Other places say use raw ingredients for a tasty stock. Obviously, they both can't be done at the same time, or can they? What's your take on the issue? Have a good one, Zach from Pittsburgh. Well, okay, look.
+
+[47:57] To me, they're just uh there's totally different, right? So if you uh a roasted uh meat, I mean white if you're making a white stock, you want to have uh I mean you need like maybe some bones in there for collagen, but you need some more meat to kind of uh bolster it. And by the way, on a non roasted uh bone thing, I consider if you cook a chicken, let's say, or or whatever, and you take the carcass from that cooked chicken and you throw that into a pot, that might as well be a white so a white stock as far as I'm concerned, non roasted, because you're not having any uh kind of brown on it. Now, in general, I don't know that I agree with this. I mean, they taste very different, but people tend to say that uh, well, look, it's obvious the browned ones, the roasted ones, have that brown roasted flavor to it, so you have that you know that flavor.
+
+[48:46] If that's the flavor you're looking for, then you need the roasted bones. Period. Uh now, if what you want is just clean meat flavor and you don't want all those browning things, then you can go for a uh for a white stock. I will say this. Most of the meat that we buy with before it's cooked is pretty flavorless.
+
+[49:06] And the reason it's flavorless is because it's usually well, it's not cooked. Uh, and it's also very kind of young. If you want to do a white stock, let's say a uh white broth of chicken, you're gonna want to get an old hen, a stewing hen, because that sucker, even if you don't roast it, is gonna have a delicious flavor. If I had a really delicious hen that you know was old, had been laying eggs its whole life and then stopped, you know, laying eggs so they popped it, and then you know, you have that thing to to cook. That guy, I probably wouldn't roast it because I would rather have the pure flavor of the chicken coming through.
+
+[49:41] If you're having a broiler chicken that's only a couple of weeks old and you have a bunch of carcasses of it, right, because you've used the meat for some other purpose because the meat's very tender because it's really too young and hasn't developed a lot of flavor, well then I would roast the hell out of those things because the fact of the matter is there's not much flavor going on in there. If you have uh, you know, you know, most veal we're roasting off all the veal stuff because veal really hasn't, I mean, I love veal, but veal really hasn't developed that much flavor yet. So you roast it and you get a lot kind of more flavor. If you have something that you don't necessarily if you're making a stock like pork, pork, you better cook that sucker. Like a raw pork stock smells kind of like raw.
+
+[50:18] Do you like a raw smell of raw raw pork stock stuff? I don't think it's we well really porky, but not necessarily in the way that like pleasing. Yeah. You know how there's like good porky and there's bad porky? And it never used to bother me except for when we went through remember we went through that period where we were boiling all those pork skins for making chicharolums and like all we smelled for days was the boiling pig skins.
+
+[50:42] So anything that reminds me of boiling pig skins, uh like anything that reminds me of like kind of also like I love tripe, but tripe before you prepare, like anything that kind of you know how they kind of have that bleachy weird thing from when they prepare like uh I love tripe though. But anyway, my point is is that like usually for a pork stuff, I'm gonna uh roast it off. Uh chicken, like young chickens roasted off. Old animals that have a lot of flavor, they can get away with being more purely the meat flavor. Now, yeah, you can always have the best of or the worst, depending on how you look at it, uh, of both worlds.
+
+[51:13] If you have if you have a like a really meaty uh meat, you can you can kind of mix and match, or you could get something in between. You could get the cleanliness of a white, uh a white stock, an unroasted stock, and then also uh get some of the brown stuff, just mix the two together. In general, if it is a bolstering effect you want, uh then I would use uh roasted. If it's a kind of meaty palette that you want to draw over and you don't want the extra notes of the roast, well then hell, don't roast it. Uh that's uh that's your choice.
+
+[51:48] Um anyway, I think you can do both. Uh especially here's one for you. If you want to do uh remi, so you what you do is you do an initial roasted stock uh in a in a pressure cooker quick and then do uh not a remi, sorry, a second stock. Uh then you could redo the stock with fresh meat, like you would for a classic kind of consume thing, only with more meat than you would for a classic consume, and then get the freshness of that meat out of it. That might be a good way to get the boast of both best of both worlds.
+
+[52:14] All right, listen, they're gonna kick me off the air, but on my way out, we got some good stuff coming up on the Sears all. If you tune into the Kickstarter, we're gonna put some stretch goals in. I think we're gonna give some extra screens as a stretch goal. Maybe we're talking about trying to include one of the clamps. We're gonna see if we can make it work.
+
+[52:28] We're gonna be talking about uh for all you Iwitani lovers out there, which is a type of torch, whether or not we're gonna be able to support the Iwatani uh in time for the Kickstarter to be over, maybe some European torches. Uh one more thing, I need your help. Tweet me in. I'm looking for a source for anyone who's from South America. Kamukamu, which is a delicious fruit that unfortunately also has a lot of antioxidant power, so everyone sells it as powdered kamukamu, which is gross.
+
+[52:53] I need kamukamu puree here in the U.S. If anyone has a source, let me know at Cooking Issues. Kamu Kamu Pure has to be red, has to be delicious, has to be puree cooking issues.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio.
+
+[53:31] You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program is brought to you by Regional Access. Regional Access is a regional distributor committed to creating sustainable economies throughout the Northeast. For more information, visit RegionalAccess.net. On behalf of our family of hosts, staff, and the millions of listeners who have tuned in since 2009, we want to wish you happy holidays and ask for your support as we launch our daily in house news coverage. Please consider making us a part of your end of year giving in 2013.
+
+[0:28] Your membership donation is tax deductible, and the best way to show you believe in our work and the importance of a free food focused media resource. Consider donating today at heritageradio network.org by clicking the donate button. Thanks for your support and enjoy the show. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from Robert's Pizzeria in the back of Well, no, I'm reverse P3.
+
+[1:00] I'm in the back of Robert's. In Bushwick, Brooklyn on a very snowy, snowy day here in New York joined uh with Joe in the booth. Hey Joe, how are you doing? I'm doing okay. How's it going, Dave?
+
+[1:08] I'm doing alright. Nastasha, the hammer lopez not here yet because uh well, Joe, is there a polite way of saying what the the name of that website is where you can check on the L train? Um is the L Train F dot com. Oh, there you go. It's the L TrainF.com.
+
+[1:22] If you go to that website, you'll find that yes, in fact it is, which is the train she takes. For those of you that have never been to the New York area and taken our lovely subways, uh the F train travels between kind of the hipster portions of Brooklyn and uh 14th Street in Manhattan, and that's what uh it's often F'd, right, Joe? It is pretty often F'd. It's highly trafficked, but there's only one line, so it gets pretty F'd. Yeah, it gets F'd up in the in the in the snow.
+
+[1:49] Although why would it get messed up in the snow? It's all underground. What the hell? Yeah. It's underground until you get to like East New York, so.
+
+[1:54] Oh, that's where it got messed up? I I I can only assume. Hey, look, I took an above ground train to get here and ain't no problems on the J line. The J is the most reliable train in New York, apparently. Wow.
+
+[2:05] Chill. You're just a font of knowledge. Uh uh MTA knowledge. They uh if they want to start putting me on the payroll, you know. You should get together with my son Booker.
+
+[2:14] He you know, he's uh uh a similar font of knowledge on MT, although very opinionated man hate the kid he hates the that's great. He hates the I don't know why he hates the day. He takes particular dislikes to certain trains based on uh the actual motors, the actual manufacturer of the motors used to propel them. He can tell by the sound of a subway car. He's like, that's Alston propulsion in that.
+
+[2:33] And he's like, I don't like that one so much. And he's like, that's it, you know? And it's like a sign of the cross. I think it's over, it's done. Uh so while we're waiting for uh Nastasia to show up and see how her day has been going.
+
+[2:44] Uh we got uh some uh folks here. We're doing a a a well why don't you why don't you go go go around the room here and we'll we'll ever introduce themselves and t tell them what we're doing today. Hi everybody. Um I'm Lara and I have an app called Days, which allows you to share a day's worth of photos and gifts at a time. It's a visual diary.
+
+[3:03] Not dazed like dazed and confused, like days like days of our lives. Like days of the week, days of our lives. Yeah. So this is uh project called Days in the Life, in which um I follow around and photograph a creative visionary like yourself, Dave, for a day of their life, just a normal Tuesday, and then we share that out with everyone. You'll be able to see a day in Dave's life.
+
+[3:25] Nice. Yeah. Rebecca, you want to introduce yourself here? Uh I'm Rebecca. I work with Dave and Nastasia uh over at Momofufuku and Booker and Docks.
+
+[3:34] So just hanging out for the day. Nice. Yeah, you can't come in. Hey Stas. Hello.
+
+[3:38] L train messed up, huh? And the no A C E messed up. Really? Yeah. That's weird.
+
+[3:43] Alright, so Nastasha's here and we're ready to begin in earnest. Calling your questions to 7184972128. That's 7184972128 for all your cooking and non-related cooking questions. And we're wait next Tuesday is what? Here Stas, you can climb over me.
+
+[3:56] Uh Christmas Eve. Ooh. Are we in town? I'm not are you? Well I mean uh Saskia in all fairness I told her to do it.
+
+[4:07] So uh the question is is is this our last show before uh the Christmas? Yeah. So we're not gonna do the Christmas Eve show? Unless you want to do it by yourself. Wow.
+
+[4:14] I don't think you can Dave. Oh we're shut down? We're shut down. All right. This is the Christmas Eve show.
+
+[4:20] This is the Christmas show. All right. So uh Merry Christmas. Merry Christmas. And that means this is our last opportunity on the Cooking Issue show to uh to plug the Sears all.
+
+[4:31] Sears all. Go to Kickstarter dot com. Search Sears all and for sixty five dollars you too can be one of the first people to own this magnificent handheld broiler that we're making, right? How's that going? Good.
+
+[4:43] We're gonna send out the uh holiday cards right and what's it gonna say? Sears and greetings. That's how Piper is and for for those of you that tuned in before you know that Piper Christian king of puns uh has done the holiday card uh verbiage not the not the art but the verbiage and it's Sears and Sears's greetings. And we're mailing those out when? Today?
+
+[5:04] Tomorrow? Tomorrow morning yeah that's we all right so to some questions uh from uh Brad Spahn we got in on the Twitter uh recommendations for a first low temperature book books that have some veg recipes especially are appreciated for ours is a mixed household. It's tough. I mean, um, there's really only pub in published book land that's you know dedicated, there's uh I mean the only one I can really think of is the under pressure, the um the one that was put out by Keller and Ruhlman, and there's a some good veg recipes in there, but you know, modernist cuisine, uh, I'm sure their at home one has some, but that's kind of a more of a hefty tone. Uh look, the recipes are gonna be fine in the in the under pressure thing.
+
+[5:44] I disagree with uh some of their points, specifically with some of their safety standpoints, but there's a lot of stuff online uh as well, and it's just ever increasing the amount of uh amount of stuff. You guys seen any newer low temperature uh by the way, the reason I everyone Rebecca was like, I don't know how to introduce myself. I was like, everyone who's in the studio, boom, like you're here, I'm gonna call you out. So you guys do you guys know any like uh good we haven't done like does Lucky Peach done anything on that? It's just as it comes, right?
+
+[6:09] Most of the stuff that you know I work with, it's kind of as it comes, not specifically um, you know, low temp or not. I'm trying to think of another one. There's I mean, first book. So I'm assuming you don't want to spend like 158 dollars. Like, you know, the one Roka one is still a classic, which came out although Bruno Gusseau, the kind of grandfather of uh low temp one of the grandfathers of low temp cooking, detests that book because he says the temperatures are too low.
+
+[6:30] In fact, he says that it that it's a book that attempts to poison people. Uh it's a great chef's book. But I would get the under pressure. Um, you know, I have done the ideas in food book have a lot of low temp in it? I don't know.
+
+[6:41] I don't know. And you know what? And go to chefsteps.com where they can put a lot of content online. It's not in the form of a cookbook, but they have a lot of content online uh for you to check out. That's uh put out by uh our good friends like Michael Mackin, Chris Young, and uh who else is on that one?
+
+[6:56] Grant, right? Anyway. Um, and obviously chefs who use a lot of low temperature work like Grant and stuff, I'm you know, I'm sure they have a lot of stuff in their books on it. Anyway, sorry, I could not be of more help. Is that not very I feel like I wasn't very helpful.
+
+[7:08] Yeah, like Style's like, like I don't care. I don't give a I don't give a rat's ass interesting. Okay. Uh also we got in uh do you remember those uh you remember those um uh those uh cocktail university things we did? Those videos we did?
+
+[7:14] So uh uh delete uh Delip Rao uh Leapers 500 wrote in and says the saxophone during the cocktail university segment sounds like Michelle Pfeiffer and Sean Connery stopped off for a drink in the Russia house. Be like, I mean, like I that's good, I guess, right? I mean, like, I wouldn't mind if Sean Connery and Michelle Pfeiffer came and stopped by. I would make them a drink. That's great.
+
+[7:40] I want to be there. Yeah, I like those guys. I mean, I don't really I don't know them. I like the theory of them. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[7:46] Yeah, I mean, I've never met, I mean, like Sean Connery kind of like Can we find that? Can you find that, Joe? The saxophone and the whatever one. Yeah, I'll be able to do that. I'll do a little searching around.
+
+[7:55] Joe, speaking of, uh, I didn't bring it up before because we always waiting for Stas, so I was a little pre you know uh preoccupied, but what's up with Jack and the porn music? You're trying to get people to donate money for the holiday seasons to the Heritage Radio Network using fundamentally porn music. Well, sometimes you have to appeal to not people's like hearts and minds, but to you know, their senses and in other ways if you really want them to give you what they want, right? Yeah, but I mean like it's marketing. I mean like but eight yeah, okay.
+
+[8:21] So like it's a known thing's like we're going to like use uh we're gonna use 70s style porn music. No, I think it's just that's that's Jack's personal taste. Um there was really no marketing scheme here. Um, but I will pass the review along to Jack. I don't know, I'm not saying it in a negative way, by the way.
+
+[8:38] Can we play it again real quick? Because Stas didn't get to hear it. Can we play the Okay, yeah, let me boot that up. Yeah, let's play. Well, like it'll just come on in in in a minute here.
+
+[8:45] Well, he's gonna be a little bit more than a little bit. On behalf of our family of hosts, staff, and the millions of listeners who have tuned in since 2009. We want to win. It's got a little bit more of a hip-hop vibe. Please consider making us a part of your end.
+
+[9:01] It sounds like the intro to a very white song. Maybe that's what I was thinking. Not like an actual berry white song, but like the intro to a very white song. Something you'd do. Yeah, it's gonna go in to slow your roll after that or something like that.
+
+[9:15] Yeah, Jack should have recorded that with all of his vocals pitched down so he sounds like Barry White. Oh my god. Holy crap, can we do that? Then we would have had the money rolling in. Oh my god.
+
+[9:24] Well, if Phil Bravo, if he would ever come in here and do it, like he could do the Barry White voice. A little goofier than Barry White. Yeah, Barry White, rest in peace with your magnificent voice. Okay. Um, you know, did a uh a presentation at the Food and Wine uh thing for all of Annex publishing.
+
+[9:42] We'll talk about it a little bit, right? Because it's kind of interesting. So uh if for those of you that, you know, I don't know, I don't know, have heard me spiel about this before. Uh I spent a lot of time thinking about um cocktails that other people don't spend a lot of time necessarily thinking about or didn't gin and tonic. Apparently everyone's thinking about gin and tonics quite a lot now.
+
+[9:58] Like it's a huge, huge thing would take. But I've been working fairly consistently on the gin and tonic for, you know, almost a decade now. Uh and actually it figures in the co like the last chapter of the cocktail book is all just gin and tonic and kind of you know, like full riff on the gin and tonic. And what's that? That's actual people.
+
+[10:15] That's actual children laughing at it. I thought that was like some sort of special effect that uh that uh they're playing. Anyway, so uh the concept is what do you do after you do the normal uh gin and tonic? And the and the my new idea, and this is what we were presenting at food and wine, is to make a gin and tonic that doesn't have uh tonic in it, right? It just hits the same flavor notes as a gin and tonic.
+
+[10:34] So uh, and in fact, we made one that doesn't even have gin in it, but it tastes kind of like a gin and tonic with a little bit of a more of a holiday note, a little peppery note. Stas hates it because she hates junipery flavors, and then this has a definite juniper flavor in it. So uh, so what are the notes we have to hit? You have to get the resin y pine from the juniper and the gin, plus you know, some other botanicals that are in it. You need uh uh acidity, you need uh bitterness, right?
+
+[10:57] I add a little salt, uh, and so and you need sugar, right? For the tongue. So we have almost all that we in one ingredient, schizandra, which is the five-flavor berry. Oh, they also make omiji tea out of it in Korea. So it's Korean, Chinese, uh, and also to a certain extent, uh Rush Russian, where they call it limonique.
+
+[11:14] Limonique, or something like that. Say it with a crazy accent. Come on, Stas. Well, why do you never you never hook me up with the accent? Because I can't do it.
+
+[11:20] What do you mean? I've heard you do it a million times. Stas is half Russian. I have never done it. Uh oh, yeah?
+
+[11:26] How does your mom how does your mom call it? Oh, I'm not gonna say anything. Alright, so you're lying to me. Wait, here's the sex. Thank God.
+
+[11:37] Oh yeah. Hey, I'm Dave Arnold from Booker. You are Dave Arnold, aren't you? I am Dave Arnold from Booker and Dax. Alright.
+
+[11:45] Uh, but like I feel like if I had known they're gonna play that, I wouldn't have gone to such like a high-pitched squeal going in. I would have I would have started, you know, you know, started a little lower. They're like, hi, I'm Dave Arnold. Uh okay. So uh so we use this uh schizandra berry, which uh you can you you have to order it uh if you order it online, we got it on Amazon, and it's kind of fresher if you like the local spice shop sell it, it's really desiccated, it's hard to get good flavor out of it.
+
+[12:08] But it has all of those notes. It is itself sour, and they call it five flavor berry because it has you know it's is a little bit salty, it's pungent, it's uh it's aromatic. I mean, they they it's got it's got all of those flavors in it. So what we did is we and it's the easiest drink in the world to make. We blended uh a small amount of schizandra berry with vodka because it brings its own gin flavors to it.
+
+[12:28] Uh then to augment the acidity and tone down the uh the kind of juniper notes on it. We also uh made some straight in water and then combine those two to produce this cassandra. So we didn't add any acid, we didn't add any gin, we didn't add any quinine for bitterness, it was all right there in you know, in that one thing. We did have to add a little sugar, and then we carbonated. It's also a cool kind of pink color.
+
+[12:50] You like the color anyway, right? So yeah, it's a good color. I mean, if you liked gin, you think you would have liked it? Yeah. Yeah, but it's like gin.
+
+[12:56] The only thing it's not in a normal gin and tonic that is here is it's a little more Christmassy because it's got a little more of a of a of a pine note to it, even though it's not a pine tree. Uh it's not a conifer at all, Scassandra. It's uh it's uh although it is very early to it's a it's from a basal angiosperm line, so it's closer to the whatever anyway. Uh but uh it uh yeah, yeah, it's pretty good. So anyway, schizandra, that's what we were doing this week, right?
+
+[13:17] Is that pretty much all we did is interesting, other than work on the Searsol, Searsol, Searsol. Yeah, I think so. Yeah? Yeah, all right. We're also making a Santa.
+
+[13:25] Oh Jesus. So Stas and Piper have a side business going on uh with vomiting wine zombies, right? So uh I did you buy winezombie.com yet? It's taken, it's actual wine company. Called Wine Zombie?
+
+[13:39] Did you buy pukingsanta.com? So the wine zombie sits there and vomits, and for two years this is all Stas and Piper. Literally, like you think they're sitting around thinking about cooking problems? No, it's like every day, it's a zombie, zombie, zombie. It's like I know that like you know how like like like in some people's head, like there's like a like one when I look one of the first car, the first car I ever bought was uh was a 76 Pontiac Bonneville, right?
+
+[14:01] And uh a James Brown tape got stuck in the tape deck because it's back in the tape deck days, you know, in the 90s, and it was just James Brown all the time. So whenever I was driving, all I would listen to is James Brown constantly. And I feel that you and Piper, your mind is like that, but instead of James Brown, it's wine zombie. You're like wine zombie, wine. The people are you and and Piper.
+
+[14:23] I want one too. Thank you. Oh, geez. Oh my god. So the wine zombie is a zombie mask with a pump in it that pukes wine uh on a you know, continually puke continuously pukes wine like a fountain.
+
+[14:35] And it's just sitting there like you know, puking. And so then t this year, for they're like, you know what the problem is the wine zombie is really only uh it's a Halloween thing. How do we stretch this? How do we stretch the wine zombie? How do we do it?
+
+[14:48] How do we make some more money off this off this the best idea we ever had, the wine zombie? And here's how. You buy a five-foot, by the way, five foot Santa's are creepy. Let me just tell you something. Five foot Santa is creepy.
+
+[14:58] You buy a five-foot Santa, what is it? Puppet? What is it? What is that thing? It's like a like it's a Santa Matronic.
+
+[15:05] Oh, so strong! Santa Matronic. Oh, it's so strong. Oh my god. Did you make that up or did they say that in the box?
+
+[15:13] Oh my gosh, such strength. Such strength of punning. Uh so you buy this thing, and then you stick the same pump that you have in the wine zombie into the Santa, and you have Santa puking, and then you get your friend Phil Bravo to be like, Ho hoo with the little with the little voice box that's in Santa. Right. The problem is is that they're not really willing to take it far enough.
+
+[15:35] So Santa is standing upright and the pump, he dribbles like wine all over his beard, which is freaking gross. No one wants to. And so instead of, and I want your two feedback on this, instead of doing like the right thing, the honorable thing, and make Santa bend over while he's puking so that the poor guy can not spill the stuff all over his beard. And by the way, a puke on beard is nasty. I don't want to no one wants to drink that stuff.
+
+[15:56] They're having it come out of his pipe. And it's like if it comes out of his pipe, first of all, I don't really know that it's ethical to have a smoking Santa anymore, like at all. Like, but like secondly, like, you know, if you're if if it's coming out of his pipe, it's not puked. Nobody pukes out of their pipe. Nobody pukes out of their pipe.
+
+[16:13] It's a small one. And they're like, and they're like, what and they're like, what about Popeye? I'm like, when's the last time you saw Popeye puke at all? I already gave the party that were giving it to the circumference of Santa, so he can't. No, you bend his legs back sleek and pop it.
+
+[16:26] No, it like a fountain. No one's gonna understand the puking. They're gonna be, oh, Santa is a Santa fountain. It's not like a projectile situation, though. It's like no, but no, but my point is my point is that no, look, look, if you just had the Santa with the pipe, it's not gonna be right.
+
+[16:42] Yeah, you're a liar liar. It is water. Yeah, they have their own whatever. You mean water-based. You mean non-alcoholic.
+
+[16:49] Or waterholic. Yeah. Or water. Water. Can you drink the fake vomit?
+
+[16:53] Yeah, it's all food grade. So you could just put like a bunch of glasses near there. Yeah, it's a good thing. That's the way that they did it with the wine zombie. Yeah.
+
+[17:00] That's the way they did it with the wine zombie. Like imagine a chocolate fountain, but instead of puking zombie, or in this case Santa, but I'm saying you just bend his butt back, tilt him forward so he pukes down into the bowl so there's no beard hit. Because if you if you see a pipe, if you see liquid coming out of your pipe, your first thought is it puke. But then you have Phil Bravo's voice making puking noises, and anybody that's ever puked knows that the pipe is popping out of the mouth. No, not even Popeye is keeping the pipe in his mouth as he's puking.
+
+[17:26] How do you clench your teeth around a pipe and keep the pipe in your mouth while you're blowing chunks out? I think you should have done some research during SantaCon. You could have really like found some good models. Oh, hell yeah. Yeah.
+
+[17:36] Yeah. You know what? Uh and this is a thing, I mean, no offense to the SantaCon people, but you know, I have two kids, and like one of them is still a believer. I'm gonna have. You know what I mean?
+
+[17:44] And it's not cool to have Santa puking on the ground. It's not even a what is it? I'll send the video. We'll watch it at lunch. Alright, alright.
+
+[17:56] So anyway, you can call in or tweet in with your thoughts on puking Santa. But Phil's Bravo, Phil Bravo's voice is quite good. It's quite good. Maybe can you just make can you call in and do the voice? Yeah, let's see if you can.
+
+[18:07] Let's get calling and do the voice. Alright, cool. Now we have uh an actual normal question in. Uh from M. Uh Deer cooking issues.
+
+[18:14] I am a lover of most all foods. I am a size 12 plus model. So eating is really a part of my job. Because of health reasons, I've really had to cut out a ton of foods. I get really bad heartburn, which has been tearing up the lining of my esophagus.
+
+[18:28] Uh I need to c uh basically cut out all spicy, citric, high fat, and carbonated food and beverages out of my diet. Rough. That's rough, right? That's that so she says the the the worst things are any kind of pepper, which I recently have just grown to love using, chocolate, that s sucks to give that up. Citric fruits, uh or basically any fruits other than apples.
+
+[18:48] Although why not apples? Apples are can be highly acidic. Well we'll get into this in a minute. Acidic vegetables such as tomatoes, onions, etc. High fat meats.
+
+[18:55] I've been eating a lot of wild salmon, although wild salmon very high in fat. It it's interesting. I I've done some research and uh chicken breasts. I mean, that's why wild sal that's why salmon that's why people like salmon. Salmon in general is a high fat fish.
+
+[19:04] You can get leaner cuts of salmon, but usually the more money you spend on salmon, the higher the fat uh content is. That's why people like the like a lot of the cold water salmons that are caught in the you know in the rivers up there in Alaska and Canada and all that, because they're fairly high fat. Um in fact, like the you can literally just look at the price range of salmons, wild caught salmons, and they correlate with either with marketing like copper, uh whatever, but but a lot of times it'll correlate with fat content. Anyways, um and you have to look at smoked salmon. That's some fatty stuff.
+
+[19:33] And I'm saying this in a great way. It's a good way. Fat, you know, good product. I like fat a lot. Anyway, uh spices like curry or anything that is intense in flavor.
+
+[19:41] Uh I now eat a lot of easy to process grains like couscous and quinoa and brown rice. Quinoa, like uh I still can't wrap my head around the word quinoa. Anyone else have a problem with that? That's impossible to spell. Yeah, right?
+
+[19:54] Virtually impossible. Yeah. Yeah, yeah, right? It's not just me. If you go on YouTube, they do uh these pronunciation videos and they do one for quinoa and they call it Kenokanoa, which is my Kano Kanoa.
+
+[20:05] I just pronounced everything wrong. I tell you, if you called it canocanoa, like that's like that sounds like some sort of like awesome Samoan thing. Canoca Noah. Conocanoa. Or like, or like monola macadamia's monala, macadamia nut.
+
+[20:16] I love that uh I mean that's I don't really know what the accent is over there. But like but like mono monolae is like an awesome word. So cooking cooking, say it again? That's so much better than Kokomo. Remember that crappy Beach Boy song?
+
+[20:29] Stas a lot harder to pronounce if it was canocanoa within the Kokomo song. Yeah. Cano Kanoa. Right? Stas once hung out with the Beach Boys lawyers at uh she was at uh she was at in Nathan Miravold's lab uh for the modernist because one of the monitorers' cuisine dinners with Mark Ladner, and they were sitting next to the lawyer for the Beach Boys.
+
+[20:49] Apparently, like they they aren't like happy go lucky fellows. We were also sitting next to the more interesting that Google founder who cheated on his wife with a small Asian woman who worked with him. I feel that this is not maybe safe for well. This is now grilled to me. The uh the uh opinions of Nastasha are Nastasha's alone and do not represent cooking issues or the Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[21:12] Uh the uh so but you said he was also wearing the glasses. For the first time, yeah. It was early. It was like a couple of years ago, it was before anyone else had the glasses. It was a prototype.
+
+[21:21] And what was your thoughts on the glasses? Stupid. That's why we call it the hammer. That's why we call it a hammer. So it's like, well, better or worse than a segue.
+
+[21:31] Oh, way better. Better, yeah. I don't know. I love a good segue. I've never been on one, but I'm not a good one.
+
+[21:38] Do you like seeing the tours, the segue tours? People with hold like the head segue goes like this and all the other segue stuff. I get irritated when I see people wearing Google glasses, but not when I see people on a segue. You ever seen you ever seen someone double up? No.
+
+[21:50] I feel like that would be the perfect combination. I feel like they do that at the Google office. Yeah. They Google up and segue up. Yeah.
+
+[21:56] No, Google at the Google office I did a demo at Google and they have these kind of awesome Google colored bikes, and the idea is that no one's gonna steal the Google Google colored bike. I was like, I want a Google colored bike. And like they like you can just bike around all over the campus there. The Google campus is in I never been to the one here in uh in the New York, but the one um in California is freaking amazing. Yeah.
+
+[22:15] It's like it's like it's like pre-bust awesome, like volleyball courts and like food and everything. I've been to the one here. Google's one of our investors. We love you, Google. Yeah.
+
+[22:25] How's the how's the campus here? It's good. So I think you you should really go there. That's some of like some of the best features, I think, are are the food programs that they have there. Like they have like five.
+
+[22:35] What? They want any demos. Yeah, I mean they have like five um, what is it called? The like food carts and like trucks inside. They're parked inside of Google.
+
+[22:44] Yeah, that's pretty cool. Yeah, I have a friend who works there, and I'm trying to get invited to lunch. So I've I've eaten at the Google one in uh in and I spoke to their head chef, and uh they have an very interesting program. It's pretty cool. I mean, I mean, they should have interesting stuff.
+
+[22:57] They got more money than God. Okay. Uh anyway, back to M's question. I now eat a lot of easy to Okay, uh, like couscous and quinoa and brown rice. I loved using Near East uh boxes, and for those of you that don't know, Neriast is a brand of uh like boxed um Middle East.
+
+[23:11] Middle East green, like couscous, blue brown rice, little with little flavor flavors. Flavor, flavor packets. And uh I loved using them, but they have a lot of garlic and citric acid and fats. Now, uh Em, I we looked at some of the labels for the uh for that and then and we didn't have uh Joe, we got a caller, but let me let me finish at least the question before I go to the answer. Yeah, does it?
+
+[23:35] Is it Phil? Um, I'm not sure. Let's find out if it's Phil. Okay. So uh now I looked at the labels for these and they don't like they didn't seem that high in uh the ones I looked at didn't aren't high in citric acid.
+
+[23:46] You gotta remember also, we'll get we'll get into pH in it in a in a minute. I'm also looking for an alternative cooking fat as opposed to olive oil. And it we're all like, do you not like olive oil? If you don't like olive oil, if you don't want the flavor, I mean just go with something that has a high smoke point like uh, you know, um like grapeseed or uh, you know, uh or canola, uh or something like that. Although I I at home almost I gotta be honest, I exclusively use olive oil.
+
+[24:09] I use olive oil and then I have uh like real honest to god fry fat from my deep fried fryer. But I I I don't stock a lot of different oils except for flavoring oils. You can keep a lot of different flavoring oils around. You got what do you use to cook with stuff? Olive oil.
+
+[24:21] Exclusively? Or butter. Butter. Butter. Uh I eat uh uh I want to buy it.
+
+[24:28] Can we get the website polyunsaturated a hole? I want that. Anyway, uh I'm also looking for okay. Uh I eat a lot of different beans because they're good for my heartburn, but I don't want to translate this all into gas, which I've never had a problem with before, so I'm looking for an alternative for a non-meat uh protein uh that has a uh low pH. Presumably you mean low low acid, so high pH.
+
+[24:52] Now let me tell you something. Also, if you increase the gas you have, I was doing some research on GERD, gastroesophageal reflux uh disease, and uh apparently downstream gas can actually cause a your esophagus uh to open up a little bit. So you definitely don't want to add gassiness to the problem because it can it might uh potentially increase your symptoms. Anyway, my questions are what kind of mild spices are there to flavor rice, grains, chicken, and fish? I I use dill a lot and turmeric and cumin.
+
+[25:19] You know, dill is delicious. Nils Norrin, uh you know, my my sweetest chef friend, he loves the dill because he's Swedish, and if you don't love dill, that they put you on the top of the mountain and let you freeze to death. Uh Wile Dufresne hates the dill. Did you know that? No.
+
+[25:31] That's a little secret that I probably shouldn't have told you. Wiley Dufrein does not like dill. You heard it here first, unless you are wily. Uh uh also I was heard uh uh okay, uh alternative cooking fats, uh the alternative cooking fats without being processed, blah, blah, blah. Okay, and good marinades for meat uh and hates soy sauce.
+
+[25:47] How do you hate on soy sauce? How do you hate on soy sauce? What about miso? We were having this conversation before. If you hate soy sauce, does that mean you necessarily hate miso?
+
+[25:55] No, because I don't care for soy sauce particularly. As a marinade, it works for me, but like I don't use it in when I eat sushi even. And I like miso. Right. So miso makes an excellent marinade and curing device, right?
+
+[26:06] You have miso and uh some other liquids, preferably probably for you, not too acidic uh liquids, and um and uh and you know, some sugar, maybe in there to like counter the saltiness of it. But miso might be a good thing. We'll we'll get into this in a second. I'm gonna go through your question and then I'll answer it after the caller. Uh I like to keep natural and organic.
+
+[26:24] I know that uh low-fat diet is gonna make me lose weight, but I need to retain my curves by eating a good amount of mild food. I feel like I just haven't been eating enough because I don't know how to uh what to do to make it taste good uh or eating and effing up my diet by getting too much fat on the plate because fat can increase it the uh symptoms of uh uh GERD gastrointest uh gastroesophageal reflux. Help M. Alright, so we're gonna get to the answers. And I love that someone's like, I can't eat enough anymore because I can't eat the foods that I want.
+
+[26:50] This is like an interesting question. We never had a question like this before. But right now, caller, you're on the air. Boom. Hi Dave.
+
+[26:55] How you doing? Uh this is Benzinger from Indianapolis. How you doing? Doing okay. How about yourself?
+
+[27:01] All right. Uh I just got back on a uh from a three-month trip to the country of Lebanon. Oh, nice. And uh and um I ran into something that I was curious about. They they store this stuff in the fridge.
+
+[27:14] You know how like uh garlic oil is not good because of botulism. Sure. They have a spread called tum, which is uh the Arabic word for garlic. And it's literally raw garlic, oil, salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Why is that safe?
+
+[27:27] Is it because of solids content or is it because of something else that I'm not sure of? Because they store it in the fridge for like weeks, two weeks. Is it a puree? It is. Okay.
+
+[27:38] So and how much uh salt and how much lemon juice? Uh salt of flavor, lemon juice to turn it white. It's uh it's uh it's a yellowish color. You add this uh you add the lemon juice and it turns it a a nice white color. Right.
+
+[27:50] So both the flavor. But both the acidity and the salt are gonna inhibit the botulism, right? So I mean the the issue with uh with uh garlic oil specifically is and is it heated or not heated? It's not heated. Right.
+
+[28:07] So when you garlic grows in the ground. So, you know, um botulism is ubiquitous and uh meaning it it's everywhere, and it it gets on the garlic, and you can't kill botulism by normal heating. So, you know, the the idea that you that you put garlic into oil, like a whole clove or something, and then maybe even heat the oil, killing all the other competitive bacteria that are on the garlic, uh like lactic acid bacteria or things like this, uh, and but not killing the spores for things like botulism, and then you have it sealed from the air by the oil, but it locally the garlic is still has a fairly high water activity because the garlic cloves are entire or the pieces of garlic are entire. And so you can have uh botulism growth on the actual garlic. Like that's the issue, right?
+
+[28:50] So uh if you were to um add if you were to make a puree with acidity and with salt, assuming the levels were high enough, you would um be you would be um inhibiting the growth of botulism. Secondly, if you're not heating it, there are probably other bacteria like lactic acid bacteria that are good competitors against things like botulism, causing uh it did it taste as uh did you notice any kind of lactic flavor? Was there any fermentation going on in it? I d I didn't notice any, no. It's uh because usually they make it fresh, but if there's any extra left over, they they put it in the fridge.
+
+[29:25] Right. Um so botulism is gonna grow very slowly in the fridge anyway, and if there are other bacteria present that haven't been killed by a pasteurization step, then they probably provide good um competition for the for the botulism so that it doesn't grow, plus the salt and the uh fact that it and the lemon juice and the fact that it's been pureeed so that the acidity and the salt are in uh fun you know close contact with all the water-bearing parts of the stuff, because they're not gonna be in the oil because they don't like to live with oil. So all of the lemon juice and all the salt are gonna be chilling out with the with the garlic, which is the water phase stuff anyway. And so you probably get the maximum preservation from all three of those things, making it you know, not making it not kill you. Right, okay.
+
+[30:07] Now I don't know what the exact levels are to have it not kill you, but like all of those things are are very helpful. If you were gonna make it at home, you could probably put pink salt in if you really want to make sure botulism is not gonna grow. Okay. Would that affect the flavor quite a bit though? Pink salt?
+
+[30:21] No. Yeah. No, I mean the the flavor from uh curing on pink salt is more a reaction, I think, with the meat. I don't think it's gonna uh uh I don't think it'll affect, but like you uh I mean it's it's uh I'm always a little loath to give out recommendations that are safety recommendations without like actually researching the the the documents on it to make sure that I have the levels right. But um you also gotta remember botulism grows really slowly in the in the fridge.
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+[30:48] And it is it usually is it is it like put on bread raw or is it or is it used in cooking? It's put on bread raw. I mean I the it's uh it's a really good product. I'll I'll mix it into salad dressings and things like that if I have extra. But uh usually what they do is they just put it on with like pickles and tomatoes and sort of uh and and have sandwiches with it.
+
+[31:10] Yeah. Yeah. So uh I mean that that's also the reason oil and garlic is so bad uh normally is because typically people won't use it quickly because it's not like a spread, you know what I mean? So it'll be sitting on the shelf for a long time. Right.
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+[31:23] That's smooth thing. Yeah. So it takes uh how how long does it typically take for uh uh garlic oil to become dangerous? I don't know. I don't I don't trust like there there's some research out there, and if you talk to the food safety experts there, there they they lead you to believe that the growth of botulism can be much faster than you think.
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+[31:38] So uh if something is inherently unsafe, it's like I'll just use it fresh or or not, you know what I mean? Because who wants to mess around with that? The good thing about botulism, if there is a good thing about botulism, uh, is that uh you know, is that you can destroy it with heat. So if you're using something that is possible possibly contaminated with botulism, but you heat it thoroughly, the uh the toxin um from uh botulism is um is heat labile, so it will break down. Um typically the way people die is they'll eat a bunch of uh home canned mushrooms, which are a low acid food.
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+[32:11] You know what I mean? Uh you know, they're not getting it from tomatoes or you know, things like this that have a high acidity. So the acidity and the salt are really helping you out here. Okay, thanks a lot, dude. All right, good luck with the tomb.
+
+[32:23] All right, thank you. All right. So uh back to this. So uh uh M, look, good news for you, good news for you on the carbonated beverage front. I looked up uh an article called the effects of carbonated andor caffeinated beverages on acid and non-acid reflux and symptomatic perception among different phenotypes of GERD by Jose Remis uh Trochi and uh Amyra A.
+
+[32:43] Azimar uh Jacome from when is this from? 2012 from Gastroentwa uh gastroenterology uh volume 142, issue five, uh May 2012. So here's a here's an interesting thing. Uh caffeine does in fact increase the amount of time that your esophagus spends at a pH below four. So it does increase uh the damage that's gonna happen to your esophagus based on that.
+
+[33:07] But carbonation, although it does increase uh your burping, and so you think that it's actually going to cause an increase in acid uh in your esophagus, their research indicates that in fact it has no effect. So unless you know that you are specifically have a problem with it, uh, and there's all different kinds of uh of GERD, but uh carbonation, you might not have to give it up, which be I would be very thankful to not have to give up carbonation. And remember, like, yes, it does form an acid, CO2 is forms carbonic acid, but it's not very, very acidic, right? Then another thing on another it's interesting articles I was looking up, the effects of dietary fat and calorie density on esophageal acid exposure and reflux symptoms from 2006. What's interesting is, uh, and you might not uh know this, uh, but when they're doing the research on it, um, it shows that increasing the fat content increases the symptoms that you feel, right?
+
+[34:05] But they did not the actual damage, the actual it's actual caloric density that is determining uh like how much uh the actual uh pH of your uh of your of your esophagus is gonna go down. Whereas your sim your your mental symptomatic uh perception of it is going to increase with fat, which I thought was really interesting. Of course, unfortunately, fat and cal and and calorie density go kind of uh hand in hand. Uh I also uh looked up um the issue with the capsacation. Uh I assume you meant spicy peppers, not black pepper, although I don't know.
+
+[34:40] Uh and yeah, that looks like that's gonna be a problem. I was hoping that I could get some data for you that shows that maybe you have a way out that you can eat some of these foods, but other than carbonation, I don't really have any good news there for you. Um on the so let's go backwards on your questions. Uh on the marinades for meats, I would try miso. Um it's it's gonna be good.
+
+[34:59] The problem here really fundamentally is that most marinades, it depends on why you're marinating a meat. If you're marinating meat for flavor, then what's up? Okay, one more second. If you're marinating feet for flavor, uh, that's one thing, but acids and marinades are actually there to break down proteins, things like buttermilk. And so uh that you're not going to get that kind of tenderizing effect.
+
+[35:20] But what I would suggest, if you want to just marinate for flavor, then you could do things like misos, like salts uh that don't have so much of a tenderization effect, but just go get yourself uh an immersion circulator so you can do low temperature cooking. If you do low temperature cooking on that stuff, you can get the textures that you like or that you you know feel are enhanced by marinades without having to actually fundamentally alter the muscle structure uh of the meats that you're cooking. Uh all right, hold on, and then we'll get back to um we'll get back to some alternate stuff in a your uh the other questions in a minute. But caller, you're on the air. Hi, this is uh Patrick calling from Brooklyn.
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+[35:53] Hey Patrick, how you doing? Good, good. I have a question, a sort of a another sort of food safety question that um I cook about eight lobsters, uh parsing them in September. Uh froze everything. I've eaten everything, including the stock, but what I I took out the tamale from the eight lobsters, mixed it, whipped it with butter, and then froze it.
+
+[36:19] And it's but it's a pretty amazing food stuff. It sort of tastes like monk fish liver or uh sea urchin, you know, together with the butter. Right. It's been so good that I've been uh waiting to use it for the right occasion, and I'm starting to become paranoid that keeping something like a uh parcook lobster liver mixed with butter in the freezer may not be safe over the long term. Well, it's in the freezer.
+
+[36:44] It's safe. The question is, what's the quality gonna be like? And so when you have uh water in contact, remember, butter already butter keeps well in the freezer, but butter's water content is somewhere in the neighborhood of 20, but it it they're kind of like kind of locked in um in my cells there. So but when you have uh a you know uh a fat and a um and a product there, especially one that contains its own enzymes and whatnot, assuming you haven't wiped them all out, is that uh you could get rancidity. So rancidity is not gonna hurt anybody, but it might be a quality issue.
+
+[37:20] And a lot of a lot of like how rancid it's gonna go depends on um depends on, and that's why a lot of times things like frozen cured pork becomes an issue because there's a salt in it already, right? But and and you freezing it and you expect it to stay good, but in fact the quality goes down, right? Because unless you're freezing at extremely low temperatures, what ends up happening is is that all of the water soluble stuff becomes concentrated in a in a very concentrated water phase in the unfrozen part of your food and enzymatic reactions and rancidity and all those kinds of things still going on. None of these are safety issues, okay. Yeah, just flavor.
+
+[37:58] So what I would do is I would I would like uh I would unwrap uh uh uh you know, before you have the big party where you're gonna bust out the awesomeness, right? Do you have a vac how do you how do you pack this stuff in zips and vac? What do you have? I have it in a crop that's in then it's in a uh a ziploc that I basically took all the water, uh, the air out of with the uh the we with your with the with the dunking method. So it's basically here, there's very little contact with air.
+
+[38:25] That's very good, right? So you have a very good chance that it's still good, right? Because air is your mortal enemy with these sorts of things for a variety of reasons. You want contact of the bag to prevent freezer burn. Not that it's as huge an issue with you because you're gonna probably break it all down anyway.
+
+[38:39] But what I would do is I would crack the I would take out the zippy, I wouldn't I would just crack a piece off of the edge of it. And the worst of it's going to be uh uh where the air interface is on the zippy anyway. So like the rest of the quality is going to be higher than that. If you chip off a little piece of it and taste it, you know, you know, in the like the woo the week before you're going to use it, you know, and and then keep the other stuff frozen solid, then you should get a good uh indicator of the quality. You don't want to bring it up and down a bunch of times because that's going to ruin the quality the more you freeze thaw, freeze thaw, freeze thaw but that should you know as long as you just pull it out crack off a little piece with like a you know a knife, you know, just don't cut yourself.
+
+[39:16] And uh you should be able to get a firm indicator of quality. But from a safety point I would not worry. Okay, great. Well that I mean this is a pretty awesome ingredient. So I'm just I've been I've been waiting waiting for the right chance to use it.
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+[39:29] And how long has it been since summer? So it's been like five months, six months? It's been I over Labor Day I took uh uh eight lobsters on the plane I actually used your the uh the uh clove oil method to uh oh yeah nice and how it worked well for you yeah it worked pretty well I think the concentration was it would I I want to try it again you know because it was a it was it was a preliminary method but it definitely seemed to um affect the lobster's flavor in in a positive way and I I I sort of I have this grand vision of going back up the main returning with more trying again and and crazy I maybe a a pot possible idea of making fish sauce with with with lobster lobster uh carcasses. Well these I haven't seen that done before. The interesting thing about um I you know I have a new I have a new technique for lobster that I use um yeah the lobster, the reason lobster taste good in Maine is because well, if you talk to a main person, it's because they have hard bottom, whereas like cape lobsters, like there's a mud bottom, and so like you know, fit the the lobster the lobster folks from Maine are like, I would never eat one of those mud bugs from the cape.
+
+[40:33] And then you're like, oh come on, man. Honestly, they do have some good tasting lobsters in Maine, but lobsters start deteriorat deteriorating the minute they're pulled out, right? So and like so when they're sitting in tanks for a long time, they deteriorate. That's why, like, you know, if you if you get the guy from the lobster boat, you'll that's why the lobster plus also obviously, depending on the time of year, whether you like a shedder or what, depending on how long ago the lobster molted, that can also obvious it's an obvious effect of quality. But they, you know, you want the lobster to be as fresh as possible.
+
+[40:59] This was why they probably tasted good. You flew them back and cooked them right away. But uh that wasn't a total aside, you know, because I I go on tangents. But the the I have a new lobster technique uh from maybe like a year ago or something that I do. Uh if you don't want to do clove oil, you could try that try this one out.
+
+[41:15] Um what I do is I uh I spike the I put the lobster in a in a uh baking tray, right? Uh glass baking, I don't have to use glass, but uh I use it because it's non-reactive. A glass baking tray with like a little like wood block under its carapace, and then I uh I cut through the uh carapace, like destroying all of the uh you know, most of the uh ganglia that are uh around there. You basically just bisect the head, right? So now you've wiped out the head, and then uh I uh I uh break it apart, and then I take the shells and I make the shells into a uh lobster stock, and then I add the meat from the lobster back to the lobster stock and then uh poach it off that way so you don't lose any uh of the flavor.
+
+[42:03] And I've been ha getting good results with it. Mm-hmm. Anyway, there's a different thing to try sometime if you want. But uh Yeah, I'll be I'll be I'll be sure to try it. I'll I'll let you know how the uh the lobster tamale butter tastes.
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+[42:14] Yeah, so yeah send that send send us a link to the uh Twitter account so uh at cooking issues so I so you know how it tastes. Okay, great. Thanks so much. Alright cool thank you. Caller you're on the air.
+
+[42:24] Hello? Hello? Hi it's Brian how are you guys hey doing all right how you doing? I'm alright uh doing okay in the snow yeah yeah um I gotta all this conversation about botulism has made me paranoid about this um pressed eggplant pickle um that I've that I made um uh a couple months ago when the weather was was nice and we had lots of eggplants. Um so what I did is I I pressed I I sliced the eggplant thin and then I salted it and then um basically I I I I drained it and then I added a a bunch of vinegar to it.
+
+[42:59] I mean this is a traditional sort of Italian recipe and then you take um and then you put some um uh some olive oil and some garlic and some pepper over it and then you uh and then you you cover it. Um and I've also seen it done with mushrooms as well. Um so basically there's not much there's not really any water uh or very little water in there. Should I be worried about botulism? I mean I put them in cans but I haven't done a a heat pack.
+
+[43:28] I didn't do a heat pack process because it was a cold process. Right. Uh well I mean I have a jar of those eggplants in my uh fridge right now. They're delicious. You know I mean I have a commer a commercial variety but uh they're Italian they're delicious.
+
+[43:41] But um they're acidic, you know uh so like I mean the main the main thing there is you know your your your two main saviors there are their salty and they're acidic. Uh and so that's what's making them safe. I mean the the the real problem is like uh in mushrooms where people don't add acidity and they do it you know low acid or they don't add enough acid and or enough acid and salt uh and then they get rid of um competitive uh bacteria. Did you do a cook step at all? Did you cook it at all or no?
+
+[44:14] There was no cooking. Right. So again, like you know, as I said before, that's probably actually helping you because if there was if you didn't add enough salt to prevent any sort of uh growth or enough acid to really prevent uh growth, then probably you would get lactic acid bacteria growing in there and it would function more like a traditional pick. Remember, when you're pickling vegetables in water, they're essentially in anaerobic uh like sauerkraut and kimchi are essentially anaerobic uh activities. And things like botulism are being um prevented by uh combinations of com of uh competition from lactic acid bacteria because they haven't been destroyed and uh and uh through salt and through uh the acidity, either added acidity in your case from vinegar or the acidity that's produced by lactic acid bacteria.
+
+[44:59] Uh and you know, I don't want to really go on the record saying what's safe and what's not because uh you know, like uh I can't, but the fact of the matter is is that a lot of your problems are gonna happen if you destroy the competitive bacteria through heat processing, because the heat processing typically that you're gonna do, unless you're doing retort canning, is not enough to kill the spores of things like botulism. You know what I'm saying? I hear that. But even even with this one, um because it's covered with olive oil, does that make it more prone to um uh to uh you know nasty bacteria? Well, the olive oil covering it like instantly now you're in an anaerobic uh you're in in an inner an anaerobic uh environment without right?
+
+[45:42] But but the so the question is what's gonna grow in that anaerobic environment so you're you know there are nasty things that grow in an anaer anaerobic uh environment perfingens uh you know botulism you know some spore forming nasties like that uh there's microaerobic things that can grow in those environments like listeria and so then the question is but there's also good things that grow in that environment like lactic acid bacteria which is all you know all the great lactic pickles in the world are based on so then the the question is how do you favor the growth of lactic acid bacteria and disfavor the growth of the other nasty ones and salt right uh acidity and not killing the because unfortunately it's fairly easy to kill the good ones because they don't form they they're not spore forming. Lactic acid bacteria you wipe them out and they're wiped out. So if you're not wiping them out to begin with they're still there. So you and and even just like having even if you cook something if you expose it to oxygen and then put it to the air and put it back in there's more lactic acid bacteria hitting it because again they're ubiquitous but it's it's this kind of pasteurization in place in oil phase with low acid and low salt that are really favoring nasty things like botulism um porfringas all these other things. So I you know I don't want to say a hundred percent 'cause I don't know how much salt and how much vinegar there, but if it if it tastes acidic and salty, you know, and you've gotten rid of some of the water through pressing and you know uh you know it seems like fairly I mean especially if you're following a traditional procedure it seems like you're probably pretty safe.
+
+[47:15] A lot of times the safety issues happen when you take a traditional preservation method, let's say confite, and you you know, uh I'm making quote marks in the air, modernize it, right? And uh so typically what modernizing it means is like on a confie is cooking it less, meaning you have a higher water activity because you're not cooking a lot of the water out, or B reducing the salt or reducing the cure time on it, and so like uh or or taking the herbs away because the herbs also have some bacteriostatic effects that are in Confi. So by removing all these hurdles, you can take what is traditionally a safe product and make it an unsafe product. So but if you're following a traditional method, you're not trying to go hyperlow salt and you're not trying to do a bunch of other things like that. Um you know, there there are there are safety uh there are safety methods built into centuries old techniques because when they did it other ways they would die.
+
+[48:09] Yeah, this is an old school m method, and um but if if the can had some um some gas coming out, does the botulism release gas? Oh hell yeah. Not always. That's the thing. Like so, some bot some some forms of botulism are going to release gas.
+
+[48:24] So that's why you're always told not to open uh not to eat cans that produce gas. Uh some but that but uh gas is not a guarantee of uh no botulism. I mean I mean sorry, lack of gas is not a guarantee of no botulism because there are botulism uh strains that will uh not make gas. Uh but if there's gas, also lactic acid bacteria can make gas. So uh you know it it's um like surstroming, the the crazy sweetish fish that like you know you're not allowed to bring on airplanes, although I did uh like you know, that stuff, the cans are bulging, and when you put the can opener into it, the can like explodes with with some foul smelling gunk.
+
+[49:04] So there's other things that make gas other than botulism, but uh, you know, that's why, but you know, if if if a can bloats and you don't know why, you pitch it. Because cans are supposed to be sterilized. So if you're gonna can something commercially sterilized, so if you can something, you're expecting a no-bloat situation. You know what I'm saying? Right.
+
+[49:22] Right. Okay. Uh so like a pickle, like when you pack a pickle, right? Let's say you make a pickle and you pack a pickle, uh, even like a lactic pickle, and then you're gonna can it after it's done, right? So there what you're doing is you're killing the lactic acid bacteria.
+
+[49:36] So there should be no more bloat. And then even if you if you if you get bloat on that, the assumption is it's something nasty that you didn't kill, like botulism, and it's no good. You see what I'm saying? See the difference? Right, I got it.
+
+[49:46] Yeah. Um another pickle related question. So it I've I've read that you can use whey to kick start uh a uh um a p a pickle um and kind of keep it keep it going that way. Um but that seems to me kind of counterintuitive because that is a sounds like a different process, which would create an environment that wouldn't be friendly for lactic acid bacteria. Well, uh I mean like remember, like cheese is grown, I mean cheese like cheese is fundamentally like a lot of the ripening in cheese is uh are lactic acid bacteria and uh and other things.
+
+[50:21] Uh I mean it depends on on what kind of cheese you're making, but no, they the whey is a good substrate to grow uh bacteria. Yeah. Oh, okay. So I can use my uh the from my yog away from my yogurt uh as a as a kind of kickstarter for my pickle and it'll buy it. Yeah, yeah, it's full it's full of lactic acid bacteria already.
+
+[50:39] You know what I mean? Especially if it if it's whey from yogurt, you know, and you haven't eaten it. Yeah, yeah. Yeah, I mean it's already pre-cultured. It might not know whether or not the particular strains that you have are necessarily the ones you want in in pickles, but yeah, you've already got a you already got a raging lactic acid colony there.
+
+[50:55] So already you've kickstarted it and you have it you have the inhibition of uh neck negative uh bacteria like uh like um uh botulism or or or papyring's would it be possible to tickle uh with using whey uh as a as a as a starter and so you don't have to add salt or I don't have to add as much salt. I don't know. I don't want to, I'm not gonna, I don't I can't wanna go there. I don't want to go there. I don't want to co-sign on uh on that.
+
+[51:23] Although there's a lot of people that do very low salt fermentations, but uh I've never done a lot of uh research on on their actual like absolute safety. Okay, great. Thanks for all the help. Um I think I'll be eating the eggplant pitfall. All right.
+
+[51:39] Yeah, if you're if your vision goes double, go to the hospital. That's blurred vision, is one of the problems with botulism. I'm just not I'm just kidding, but but I'm not. I'm kidding, but I'm not. All right.
+
+[51:48] Have a good one. All right. So uh let me rip through the rest of M's questions because I got a couple other questions I gotta go to, and they're gonna pull me off the air pretty soon, I think. Okay. So uh on the meat.
+
+[51:57] Look, do you not like soy? Soy, uh I just you know I forgot who who sent us the uh the tofu book, Andrea Nguyen's tofu book. I just finished reading it, and now I'm at Stas's now, she's she's she's gonna make the face because I'm gonna go on a tofu cake in the new year because it's been many years since I've made tofu regularly, and I realized how much I love fresh tofu. And M, if you like to cook fresh tofu, making your own tofu. I've never found a tofu supplier here in the they're they're here, but I've never looked them up that that I really, really love.
+
+[52:26] I love tofu that you make, like that you make. It's awesome. Like, go ahead and make that. And you can put a whole bunch of things other than soy, which you hate on tofu. And fresh tofu is amazing.
+
+[52:38] And it's also not high in acids, and it doesn't cause the bloat-out that you, you know, that you're you would get from the other things. It's fun to make. Then you can go, you can morph from that. Make, you know what I'm saying? I've only made it a couple times years ago, but I loved it.
+
+[52:44] It was Yuba. You ever made fresh Yuba? Anyone here? Yuba, fresh Yuba, you know, which is the tofu skins, is not the same thing as the dried stuff. It's just not the same stuff.
+
+[53:01] The stuff that's never been that you just make fresh and you eat fresh is just phenomenal product. So I would go that, or you know, try something like uh tempeh or something something like that. Uh, or if you want like hard protein, like I'm not as such of a Satan guy, but you guys like Satan? No. Not such a Setan fellow.
+
+[53:17] But you could you could try it out. But give give those uh give those a shot. And also I wouldn't worry about the uh amount of garlic unless it's actually bothering you, or the acidity of those uh of those peel off products. They're probably just adding a small amount for flavor. And uh, you know, I I wouldn't worry so much uh uh uh about that.
+
+[53:35] And if I have some time, we'll go back and we'll talk about some more spices. Mike, you got you guys got any good spices? I like the ones that you were mentioning. I like turmeric, I like cumin a lot. I use a lot of cumin.
+
+[53:43] I put like boatloads of cumin in my like in my guacamole, although apparently I'm told I'm not. In fact, Stas and Piper made a chili and it didn't have cumin in it. I'm like, well, then it ain't chili. It's not chili, it's some sort of Vermont meat stew. You liked it, right?
+
+[53:57] Yeah. Stas like, I don't want to hear about the chili. All right, let me let me catch some other questions real quick before they uh before they rip me off here. Uh let's start with uh Sam. Sam writes in, hey Dave, what are your thoughts on storing chicken eggs at room temperature?
+
+[54:11] Does the type grocery store eggs, farmers market eggs, uh, blah, blah, blah, just falling out of the chicken. Oh, falling out of the chicken. I don't like that. I thought you like that thoughts, Dot. Bloop.
+
+[54:20] Uh Stas hate. That image is gonna be in her head now. And our previous storage conditions matter. I have no problem storing eggs in the fridge. I just think they look badass in a tray on the counter.
+
+[54:28] Sam, okay, listen. Sam, the issue with storing eggs at room temperature is not one of safety. Uh, it's one of quality. Uh, and it depends on how long you're going to store them. If you're only going to have them for a couple of days, then it's not going to make that big of a difference.
+
+[54:41] You're going to want to look up the haw unit. The hall unit is a measurement of how high the egg yolk sits up on the egg white. And it's a determinant of the quality of thick white versus thin white. And what happens at higher temperatures like uh storage temperatures out on the on the counter is that the thick white breaks down, and you also have a lot more transpiration uh at the higher temperatures and loss of moisture through the uh through the egg. So you're gonna get more weight loss at room temperature through the pores in the eggshell, and you're also gonna get more degradation of the thick white into thin white when it's sitting at uh room temperature.
+
+[55:13] So if you're gonna use them right away, no, it doesn't matter. If you're not gonna use them right away, then please uh keep them in the fridge because you're just gonna be losing more and more of your uh thick uh white. That makes sense? Mm-hmm. Yeah.
+
+[55:25] And they uh I read an article called comparing uh comparative proteomic analysis of egg white proteins under various storage temperatures. And what they think uh it's going on is that you're getting uh an excess acceleration of the breakdown of uh ovalbumin at higher temperatures, possibly due to um enzymatic reactions. Okay. Uh got a question on uh someone who just got their nomiku, but I don't have the name of who asked it, which is unfortunate. Uh dear Dave, Nastasha, and crew.
+
+[55:49] I've recently reviewed, uh received my brand new Nomiku circulator, which made by Weepop, Weepop Sip. Uh Bam. Uh, and I'm extremely happy with the few things I've cooked in it. 63 degree egg, 55 uh degree strip steak, and 60 degree sausages. Those are all good, although cook the rib.
+
+[56:03] I like the rib much better than the strip, but that's just me. For Christmas, this is very important. We have to get to this question. For Christmas, I've ordered a two-rib aged prime rib from my small family, and of course I'm planning to circulate it. I've heard Dave talk about this dish a few times, but I cannot piece together all the advice from different shows.
+
+[56:18] So I'd be very grateful if he could give a best practices for low temperature prime rib. I'm planning to do 55 for about four hours with the meat sliced into two steaks. I think this is enough to pasteurize it for my pregnant wife and two year old son. Uh you're correct, it is. And then we don't have your name, which sucks.
+
+[57:27] Uh, but you send it into us. So here's the deal. So on a dry age prime rib, uh smell the bone. Usually when you're dry aging a piece of meat, a lot of the kind of dry age smell uh is on the on the like silver skin and and like stuff right around that bone. If you cook in a bag with the bone, sometimes that flavor can permeate all of the meat, and some people like that, and some people hate that.
+
+[57:49] So if you are a huge flavor, uh uh uh fan rather of the look of the dry age funk that comes from a long age thing, just smell that bone and realize that that smell is gonna be throughout the piece of meat if you cook that way. If you don't want it that hardcore, and if your wife is pregnant, let me just tell you, having gone through uh cooking for a pregnant wife twice, same wife, two different pregnancies, uh you uh certain smells like that can really be triggers uh uh for uh people who are pregnant. And so you might not want to have of making them not want to eat it. You know what I'm saying? So uh if I were you and uh uh and I was cooking for my wife when she was pregnant, I would cut the bone off before I cooked it.
+
+[58:30] Now, what to do with that bone? Chop that bone up, roast it off, uh make any sort of gravy, render the fat out of it, do whatever you can, and make a Yorkshire pudding to go with your prime rib that can be done at the same time that things done. Because Yorkshire pudding is one of God's gifts of food. You just want to render out enough flavor and cracklings and fat so that when you whip up the Yorkshire pudding, make sure and pour it into the hot uh you know, into the into the roasting pan that you get that awesome beef flavor. And typically that's what I'll do when I make a prime rib, I'll trim it all out for I I leave fat on because I like fat, but I'll trim off uh you know some of the fat and the bones and I'll roast them off, and I can have a Yorkshire pudding ready as soon as the steak is ready instead of waiting for 20 minutes while the rib is resting during normal cook to make your Yorkshire pudding.
+
+[59:11] So I got you covered on that bone. That's definitely what you should do. Now, what you really need to also be careful of is that you don't want to low temp cook the rib entire and then serve it that way because with prime rib, you want a little bit of the overcooked parts around the edges, right? So if you're gonna serve it as a standing rib, which you're not, then what I what I do is I would cook the cook it uh low temp and then roast it in a high oven after out you let the temperature come all you know way down, and then you roast it in a in a in a hot oven to get that kind of prime rib feel. If you're gonna stake it, then I would sear it, I would stake it before you cook it, right?
+
+[59:45] This way uh you're gonna have some searing around the edges. It's not just one big field of same colored meat. I would stake it before you sear it, uh before you s uh circulate it. Then I would do your pre-sear just like you did, bag it. I would cook it at that 55 for like you say, like four hours is good.
+
+[1:00:01] It'll be nice and tender. Then I would drop it to 50 for about a half hour. Uh, you know, I would ice cube drop it. Just throw I set your circuit 50, throw ice cubes in, the temperature will drop down to 50, hold it there for a half hour. You're not limiting the safety because you're gonna eat it right away.
+
+[1:00:17] Then I would sear it in uh in a super hot, I would get like cast iron uh thing screaming hot. Don't use a torch on it. Cast iron pan screaming hot. Uh open your windows, turn on the hoods, it's gonna make uh uh an immense amount of smoke. It's gonna be a nightmare.
+
+[1:00:31] Then uh after they're screaming hot, put you know enough oil to make sure that you hit all the sides of the uh steaks. I would do two pots at uh two pans at once, and then do like a minute and a half, two minutes on each side to sear it off and serve it with the Yorkshire pudding, and I think you're gonna be happy with that. Yeah? Yep. Yeah.
+
+[1:00:46] Alright. Good luck with that. Let us know how it goes. Uh now, if we do we have time? No, we're five, six past.
+
+[1:00:52] Do we have we have time for one more quick one or no? No. We need to do some promo stuff. But so I got I got okay. Why don't we well David Gabois wrote in about foie gras cooking an Arzak egg.
+
+[1:01:02] All right. Our our callers should only ask one question. That's the problem. What? Wow, well, we're here, we're here.
+
+[1:01:08] All right, well, why don't you do the promo stuff and if they rip us off the air, they rip us off the air. And then I'll talk about at the end well. All right, Rebecca, go ahead. You guys should do it. Well, what are we talking about?
+
+[1:01:16] Oh, the Reddit tonight. You guys are Dave's doing uh Reddit AMA. I'm doing an Ask Me Anything, right? That's what it's AM. Yeah, I don't really understand how it works, but apparently I'm gonna be uh at a computer terminal between six and 8 p.m.
+
+[1:01:26] tonight. Six thirty. Six thirty and 8 p.m. tonight, uh answering any questions. And they showed me an example, and some uh a uh nuclear scientist was uh like there, like some sort of like, you know, anti or I guess he's anti nuclear proliferation, something like that.
+
+[1:01:42] And uh and someone asked him how to cook lamb low temp. I'm like, holy crap. I hope first of all, he was totally wrong, by the way. Do not put garlic powder on your low temp lamb. And I uh this has been circulating that you should put garlic powder in the bag for variety of reasons.
+
+[1:01:54] Don't do it. But uh, because it tastes kind of burnt and I don't like it. But but but but then I was like, I hope no one asks me questions about nuclear proliferation because that's not my specialty, and it says ask me anything. But Rebecca said, Don't worry, it's not answer anything, it's ask me anything. I can be like, yo, I don't know anything about it.
+
+[1:02:10] I don't know squat about that. I don't know anything about. I mean, I do know something about that. It's true. If you don't know the answer to it, you can say you don't know the answer to that.
+
+[1:02:16] I think you know that's the smartest thing you could ever say. Like my favorite thing to say, uh I if I don't know the answer, I don't know. So what other promotional stuff do we gotta do? I think that's it pretty much. Alright, okay.
+
+[1:02:24] So, like, until they they're gonna turn me off the air when I do it, but I'm gonna read uh David's question on uh Foie. First of all, uh and and R Zat gag, I'm gonna do the Rzak gig first. First of all, I'm a Sears All Kickstarter Kickstarter supporter, so I'll be looking forward to having my very own Sears all in June. Also, the wife and I uh had a great time at Booker and Dax in June. Uh we chatted with you very briefly about the centerfuge I had just bought off of eBay, uh finished our librations and headed off to WD50 for dinner.
+
+[1:02:48] Good choices. Booker and Dax, WD50, like both of those places. Uh we really need to make it back to NYC soon and see what new stuff you guys are cooking up there. Uh we've got a big dinner coming up, and we and we want to wow the three couples of my wife and I are inviting. I have two separate questions relating to this, but if you only have time for one, then the first one is more important.
+
+[1:03:04] I'm serving seared foie gras, but I don't have a Sears all yet on the side for you because the Sears all is the best way to do this. So, how should I cook and sear it? I'm getting a dozen 2.5 ounce prepackaged slices of foie and don't want to render too much fat out from each slice. Also, these guys are sensitive, so I can't serve it rare. It really needs to be pasteurized.
+
+[1:03:21] With this in mind, I was going to cook the slices sous vide at 131 for 20 to 30 minutes and then steer one side only. I know that each step I would lose precious foie fat. Well, bagging the foie slices with some fat, either clarified butter or pre-rendering the foisse from previous previous applications, reduce the amount of fat each slice loses in the water bath. For searing, how about pan searing with generous amount of fat already in the pan? Maybe a full on shallow fry or even deep fry.
+
+[1:03:45] Since my oven broiler really sucks and my toast more torch mostly sucks, the only other option is to throw them onto a gridiron and get my charcoal weber blazing hot. I'm not afraid to do this even in the winter, but it will not be fun. Alright, here's some answers on this. The extra fat is not gonna help you. And if you're rendering 20 30 minutes at 131 F is not actually enough to pasteurize it.
+
+[1:04:08] So the question when I say sensitive is are they sensitive to the fact that it hasn't been cooked, or are they sensitive in the sense that they might have an immune compromised immune system, right? Uh if it's just that they're sensitive about whether or not it's cooked or not, if you're doing a torchon traditionally, you just do a rapid uh like like 90 second dip in like simmering water, and I think you're probably gonna get less fat loss that way than trying to pasteurize it at like a higher temp for a longer period of time. I think you're gonna get a better texture. Then you could cool it down again in the bag, and then um and then from there I would do I would just do like a screaming hot on a dry pan. You're gonna do much better uh because you're gonna get a faster crust, you're gonna get less bleed out from the edges.
+
+[1:04:50] Remember, if you put it in deep fat, you're heating the edges too, so you're gonna get more bleed out all over all over everything. I would put it in a dry pan. I've always been taught to put it in a dry pan. I would get it hot and put it in uh a dry pan. If the hottest thing you own is your Weber, you can put your pan on the Weber and get it to go, but then do a quick sear off like that.
+
+[1:05:06] Just be careful with it. Also, uh, since you got a dozen 2.5 uh pre-packaged slices, what I would do, and I did this when I was testing out, I had to do the first time I cooked it with the Sears all even. I did this a test. I got like an extra slice, and I just tested that sucker first. So I would take your pre-packed slices, they come in vac bags, although they're probably not cooked vac bags, and then I would just do like uh like a 30 or 30 or 40 second dunk in uh in simmering water, put it directly in ice water after that to stop the cookout on it.
+
+[1:05:36] Then after it's cold, I would cut it open, I would hit the one side and then put it on a serving tray in like a in like a warm place so that the center of it can warm up to temperature. I would try it with one. And then if you can get it done with one, then you're gonna get it to work with all of them. Uh, but let me know how it works out. Okay, two.
+
+[1:05:53] And then this is the last one I can do because but since it's for a Christmas holiday, since it's for a holiday dinner stars, I have to do it. Uh I'm uh doing my own version of an Arzac egg. So uh Arzak, you know, their uh famous uh father uh daughter chef team, the Arzak's in Spain. Uh, and they do this egg where what they do is is they uh they put uh uh they put uh plastic wrap into a ramekin and then they put like nice flavored fats like duck fat. It was actually in one of the early Lucky Peaches in the ramen thing, uh and uh in the ramen episode of the they call them episodes, issues of the uh of uh Lucky Peach.
+
+[1:06:24] Uh and uh they use I think duck fat, olive oil, and I think truffle oil in it. And then but they so they paint the plastic wrap with this and add a little oil to crack the egg in, but they also can put in salt, pepper, and uh spices, which is why it's I guess an interesting technique as opposed to let's say just cooking low temp in shell, which is what I normally do, or poaching in shell. Uh, and then you tie a string around the plastic wrap uh to in case the egg, and then you can poach the egg at traditional temperatures in water, but it's never touched the water uh and it's already pre kind of oiled and spiced. So it's an interesting technique, uh Arzac egg. Anyway, uh so just so you people, if you want to know what Arzac egg is, that was the explanation.
+
+[1:07:00] So here's the question. As far as I can tell, no one else has tried uh what I'm about to tell you, uh, and this might be my very first culinary invention, I think. Instead of using cling film uh for the Arzac egg, uh you put the egg into a spherical ice mold. You can see these uh on uh Amazon.com. Uh close up the mold and then inject additional egg white through the hatch on the top with a syringe until the mold is completely filled.
+
+[1:07:22] Uh, then uh sous vide at 190 F, then with question mark. I've tried doing this for different time intervals and can't seem to get the egg whites to set properly so the egg hold its shape and doesn't fall apart and the yolk is somewhat runny. Do you have any thoughts on strategies I can pursue to make this work? Thanks for any advice you can give uh David Gabwal. Okay, here's what I would do.
+
+[1:07:40] One, uh make sure you're oiling the inside of your stuff so you get good release. Uh injecting it might be breaking up the structure of the egg white. Like, remember in the original Arzac egg, they're not breaking up the structure of the egg white, they're leaving it entire, which is why I kind of poach it together that way. Uh so uh, you know, I would try to see whether you can get away with not doing that. Add a fat to it instead of adding extra egg white and do it in a way that doesn't disrupt the egg white.
+
+[1:08:02] Uh the other thing I'd be careful of is that I looked up the website that you sent me, and they say that it's top rack dishwasher safe, meaning maybe not bottom rack. Find out what kind of plastic that sucker is. Uh, because something like polyethylene is not going to be able to hold up that well. It's totally food safe, but it's not gonna be able to hold up that well at simmering temperatures. If it's polypropylene, you're probably gonna be okay.
+
+[1:08:22] Uh so just make sure that the temperature is gonna be uh alright, and then I wouldn't even try, I wouldn't even use a circuit on that. I would just simmer it the way the Rzak A guys do because you're going to want a very fast, rapid set of the egg white proteins in order to get a nice uh surface and to get it to uh release properly from the mold. And with that, they're gonna kick me off the air. Happy holidays! Cooking issues.
+
+[1:08:51] Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization.
+
+[1:09:16] To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening. Thing, thing, thing, thing, thing, thing, thing.
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+[0:00] Whether you're a homeowner creating your dream space or a pro managing multiple projects, discover a new way to shop at Ferguson Home, where great ideas become stunning spaces. Visit FergusonHome.com to explore the best selection of bath, kitchen, and lighting products. Or book an appointment at one of our showrooms where you can experience products firsthand and get personalized expert support every step of the way. Bring your vision to Ferguson Home, where it all comes together. Shop top brands like La Cornew or find your local showroom at Ferguson Home.com.
+
+[0:30] Today's program was brought to you by S. Wallace Edwardson Sons, producing the country's best dry cured and aged hams, bacon, and sausage using 100% pasture raised, certified humane Berkshire cuts. For more information, visit Edwards Vaham.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more.
+
+[1:03] Hello, happy new year, and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Hatches coming to you live from a Burton's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from roughly 12 to roughly one, right? One o'clock. Uh on the Tuesdays, joined as usual with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. How are you doing?
+
+[1:19] Good, how are you? Alright, we got Jack and the Oh, sorry. Oh, we do not have we have no Jack. Jack hates us. We have Joe in the booth today.
+
+[1:26] I got you confused because you have a new haircut, Joe. Yeah, actually I've been called Jack several times now because I have short hair. Really? Yeah, a couple times. You know, uh I shouldn't say this, but since uh Jack's not here and I know I know he's not listening to the program because uh he's totally sick of us.
+
+[1:40] Every time uh uh Nastasha sees someone with the like the roughly Jack facial hair and like that kind of like you know he has like a He wears a beanie thing. Yeah, like a beanie ski cap kind of a thing with Jake. Whenever she sees that look, which is becoming ever more common, he's like, Yo, is that Jack? I'm like, I'm like, you're so you're so racist against and he's a Manhattan guy now. Yeah.
+
+[2:02] So you know you can't be you can't call him a the Brooklyn, like I don't know the Brooklyn cool hipster look anymore because like he's now from Manhattan. Yeah. And since I feel like he's like, you know, like Jack is the model for all that look, like, you know, once he switches to Manhattan, like it's over. It's now it's now it's a Manhattan look. Yeah, soon everyone in Manhattan is gonna be dressing like Jack.
+
+[2:22] Yeah, right. Scraggly little beard and everything. Whoa, scraggly. No, I mean that I don't mean that in a bad way. It really works for him.
+
+[2:30] It really does. Yeah, yeah. Yeah. Alright. So calling to questions two, 7184972128.
+
+[2:36] That's 784972028. Nah, Joel. Come on, man. I'm gonna get fired. Scraggly.
+
+[2:40] Jack's listening. That's my my that's that should be your next band. Like when you do a side project, it should be called Scraggly in a good way. Maybe that's the album. Jack's listening.
+
+[2:47] The album's. Jack should be here, right? Like Jack's not listening. Yeah, exactly. The last one.
+
+[2:52] I'm hoping Jack calls in from the office. This would just be great. Wow. So uh what uh what happened we haven't been back in in a long time because we hit on Christmas and then we hit on the New Year's. So uh what's been going on, Stas?
+
+[3:03] How was uh where were you in the California? California for Christmas, Connecticut for New Year's. Yeah, how was that? It was okay. Yeah?
+
+[3:09] Mm-hmm. It's okay. Yeah, how was yours? Good. Uh, you know, I made uh oh, we haven't spoken.
+
+[3:13] Have we spoken to people since the Sears Hall thing is done or no? Uh no. No. No, yeah, well, our Sears All thing is over. Uh for those of you that uh I don't know, don't, you know, first time listening to something.
+
+[3:22] We we made a uh a product called the Sears All, and uh Nastasha hates this, so I'm gonna make her do it. Stas, do you does it search? Does it sear only some things? No. Most things?
+
+[3:33] No. Everything? Yeah. All? Yes.
+
+[3:36] Sears all? Sears all. Anyway, so uh we had a Kickstarter for this, and uh we we sold like something on in the on the order of like uh 2,800 of them. Uh and it was actually uh the eighth, we looked this up yesterday, the eighth largest food kickstarter of all times. Food Kickstarter.
+
+[3:56] Uh Jack would have um hit the applause button. Yeah, yeah. Oh right. Damn, no game, no game. And uh yeah, so we did we did well, and uh and you know I'm especially proud of uh what we raised considering that the individual donations, it only costs like sixty-five dollars to do it.
+
+[4:15] So stuff for those of you that missed it, uh Nastasha has set up a an online shop where you can buy it called uh so the shop starter or something like this. We'll announce it in a couple days. Uh all right, whatever. So it didn't happen. I was made that crap.
+
+[4:27] No, no, it's ready to go. Yeah, all right, whatever. So anyway, so here's the thing. So uh I did the prime rib for uh for the for the Christmas. My mom, right, and I've said this before, I love my mom.
+
+[4:37] Mom's a great cook. My mom's the reason why, you know, I cook. Duh. Everyone's mom is the reason why they exist. She's also the reason, kind of, you know, why uh uh I think I like to cook so much.
+
+[4:48] Um, but uh her kitchen is extremely poorly outfitted. Like, so I mean, and this is gonna sound like I'm a complete like jackwad. She has no low temperature cooking, which is not part of the poor outfitting. Stas is giving me the Euro jerk jerk look. Uh, but like she shouldn't have a low temperature thing, so I tell you, so I brought my low temperature rig, which is a half-lexan.
+
+[5:09] I brought oh by the way, we got the Nomiku in on the break. I haven't gotten a chance to use it yet. Anyway, so we we got the low temperature rig. Oh, I cooked some deer the other day, low temperature. Oh.
+
+[5:17] I don't have it. This New Year's resolution and not beyond tangent. Well we'll we'll talk about deer in a minute. Anywho, so I uh so I did the the prime rib. My mom bought the entire freaking prime rib, which was so big it wouldn't fit in a half lexan.
+
+[5:30] Wow. So I had to, and you know, the the butcher did that thing where they cut the bones off, then they roll the individual they roll the prime rib and then retie it to the bones. You know what I'm talking about? Whatever. Old school technique.
+
+[5:41] So uh anywho, I pulled, I I cut, I took, I disassembled the butcher's work, cut the bone into three plates, cut two of the rib sections off of the prime rib, bagged them separately, bagged the whole thing in one of those. You know those ziplocks that are intended for and uh not food gray, please, no calls on this. You know the ones that are meant to like roll up comforters and and stuff for like camping? That's the only thing she had big enough to hold this giant prime rib, and I wanted to present it basically whole. So I did the whole sucker at 55 for like five hours, uh five or six hours, then dropped it, then cooled it off, cooled it off, then threw it in a 500 degree oven to overcook the outside a little bit and give it that, and then finished off with dual searzals.
+
+[6:20] So Stas, I put that, I put that picture up. You it'll be up on the site where you can buy the Zeers all in a couple of things. The dual seers alling. Gotta go, gotta go, you know, dingling ding ding ding ding ding ding. Dueling Sears all, you know?
+
+[6:30] Ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding. Um stupid. Yeah, big dumb. Oh, I also did some low temperature deer. Uh, not the one Lucas sent, because that one is uh at the at the headquarters there.
+
+[6:40] But uh we will. Do you know what cut he gave us? Do you remember? Thigh, I think. Thigh?
+
+[6:44] Yeah, I did loin, which is tough, but I did it uh low temperature. It worked uh worked great. So like these uh these two friends of uh Dax's girlfriend were you know, we're over he's he's eight. Anyway, so they were over and they're the cousins. So this 12 year old, it's it's her and her and her sister are there eating.
+
+[7:01] And so we thought that dad had shot the deer. They brought it from Illinois. They're from Southern Illinois, like near the border down there. And uh, so like halfway through the meal, they're like, So, you know, uh, so who sh who shot this deer? She's like, I did.
+
+[7:13] I was like, Whoa! Like this like like 13-year-old, like you know, girl shot this deer. I was like, that's awesome. I was like, how how you know what size would she like? Six-pointer.
+
+[7:23] I was like, Whoa! I love that. Love that. Anyway, uh, we should we gotta get on some questions. We're never gonna finish this stuff on time.
+
+[7:30] Although I have to say, I I I don't know what made me think of this, because Stas, you were over yesterday because it was cold and you didn't want to open the gate to the uh the lab by yourself. So you're over at my house because I live near where I work, thank God. Uh I hate commutes, I hate them. Anyway, me too. Yeah, the commute's well, hey, look, your choice.
+
+[7:46] Nastashi used to live down near where we worked, and she was like, I hate it down here. I'm moving back to Hell's Kitchen. So, two words, your choice. Your choice. Your choice.
+
+[7:55] Uh, anywho. So uh I moved apartments, and I'm gonna talk later about it because someone asked about a kitchen. But uh I moved and uh I used to have black floors and I have a black lab dog. So I didn't think the dog shed so much. I'm moving to a place with gray floors, and I was like, oh my god, dog shed so much.
+
+[8:11] And so like I bought a robotic vacuum cleaner and uh the the room, but the new one, which is pretty sweet. And like here's the thing, right? Everyone's like, oh, maybe that's ridiculous, whatever. I love this damn thing. I love this robotic vacuum cleaner.
+
+[8:21] It's a little loud. No, it's much less loud than a normal vacuum cleaner. And you have to run it longer. Well, but yeah, but you can program it to run when you're not there. Anywho, it runs around the house and it it plugs itself back in when it's done, and so it gets rid of all the dog hair, and I love it.
+
+[8:34] And I was thinking, you know what? What reminded me of it, and the reason I'm bringing it up today, is that uh you know how we always get these questions about and we whatever out damn because we do uh we do technology and food, right? What about 3D printing food? What's the future of food? Future this, future that, right?
+
+[8:49] You know what I'm saying? Right? Stash. Stas is like, hey, future this! Come on.
+
+[8:54] It's uh that Stas is doing the point, the jersey point. But the uh, oh, so uh she said, um, you know, it's like everyone always asks us these questions, and you know what they fundamentally don't get is even though we use a lot of new techniques and technologies, like you know, we like cooking, right? You know, we like human beings that make food that they think is delicious, that they are proud to serve to either their customers or their guests, or they're proud to make that they've created something. It's a pr it's a product that comes from themselves, and that's you know why good cooks like to cook, right? I mean, that's that's really the the impetus.
+
+[9:32] Is it you can make something that's high quality, you get to do it every day, you can constantly hone your skills, and it and it gives a little bit of of yourself to someone else, right? Isn't that why we like to do it? So obviously, you don't want a robot making your freaking food. Like, I mean, whatever, fast food, yes, yes, whatever, fine, industrial food, yes, great. Yes, we all love Twinkies.
+
+[9:50] But but like what I'm saying, you don't want a robot making your food on a daily basis. I was thinking, but like the vacuum robot is perfect, and here's exact the crux of it. And this is why I don't want my food 3D printed regularly. I mean, there are applications, right? But the vacuum cleaner is a good idea.
+
+[10:05] It's no one says this. That thing does vacuuming just like my mom used to do. If I could only find someone that can vacuum in the same way that my mom used to vacuum, then life would be great. You know what I'm saying? It's a freaking vacuum.
+
+[10:22] Nobody cares. They just want it to run, they want it to get underneath the damn thing. You know what I mean? Anyways. Uh, not a clapping day.
+
+[10:30] Yeah, not for our stellar Kickstarter. Uh Christian from Denmark writes in on vacuum reduction. Hello, Nastasha. I hope this is the right place to send questions for cooking issues. It was, because here it is.
+
+[10:44] If so, uh tell the whole crew from yet another fan from Denmark. Well, we are another friend from Denmark. We are Legion by Danish standards anyway. I've never been to Denmark. I was supposed to go to Denmark too, O'Denn's, like uh home of the home of the uh Marzipan, which by the way, Marzipan, delicious.
+
+[10:59] Delicious. Do you like Marzipan? I don't really like it right now. Why? I don't like almond paste.
+
+[11:03] Caller. What? Alright, we'll get back to this question. Caller, you're on the air. Hey, my name is Johnny.
+
+[11:08] I'm from Madison. How you doing? Um Wisconsin? Yeah, where Madison is there. Oh, yeah.
+
+[11:14] How cold is that right now? Uh it's only like 14 below right now. It was 23 yesterday, though. See, here's what I love, right? Like here in New York, we're like griping about this, like, you know, whatever it is, like five cell five Fahrenheit or whatever.
+
+[11:26] And you guys would be laughing at us like fake northern people, as like a real northern person if you weren't getting slammed so hard right now yourself. You know what I'm saying? Yeah, I definitely uh there's not much else to concentrate on. Um Do you have good winter gear? I was once in uh Sweden, and although I was uh wrecked, I was above the Arctic Circle, the dog sled lady who was running the sh the musher, she said there's no such thing as bad weather, just bad coats.
+
+[11:52] Oh I was like, very Zen. I I I do I think there is like once you've lived here for a while, there's definitely that opinion. Like you just like don't complain, just get a better setup. Yeah, nice. All right.
+
+[12:03] So what are you cooking today up there? Well, I I you we actually interacted on Twitter because I sent you the picture to the broken centrifuge. Oh, that's you, holy crap! How much do so for those of you that obviously if like uh I have this Twitter account at cooking issues if you want to go to it, and uh got uh got a question in, like, you know, like well, not really a question, more just like a photo. I bought a centrifuge and the buckets broke, and the inside of the thing got hosed.
+
+[12:29] So I was I wanted to know what the damage was so give us a little bit of background on what's going on here. So I um there was a second photo that I sent you had the the the inside of the centrifuge but uh yeah so basically got a centrifuge through the university pretty cheap uh had to check out it was a a Beckman one a little bit older and had a glass had a glass cover which was awesome because you could see inside uh also terrifying um but uh anyway so I uh I got actually I ordered a new rotor uh that I that I was using but I was using the the old buckets right and uh the the bucket broke and it flew into the side and stopped the centrifuge right away. I I bet. I bet I've never were you in the room when it happened uh I wasn't but there was someone else in there and like he said it scared the living crap out of them. I bet like how loud was it did did they say?
+
+[13:30] Yeah they said the dishwasher was like 30 feet away and he said he felt the felt it move. Wow and it moved it moved three feet. Wow and it was do it was doing about four thousand RPMs so yeah so for those of you that don't know we're talking about a little background so we're we're dealing with um we're dealing with uh uh bench top desktop centrifuge th I think like some that with the Beckman Coulter with the with the plexi top is somewhere in the somewhere in the three liter range right it holds roughly three liters. Yep, three liters. Yeah.
+
+[14:02] Swinging bucket centrifuge. Uh, and I've never dealt with a rotor failure, uh, or even really seen pictures of rotor failures on the swinging buckets, but my point of contention has always been that these units, even when they fail, are much safer than the larger, faster ones because the G forces involved are are comparatively low. So it's just very interesting for me to hear now. The buckets that actually interestingly, your buckets were not aluminum, right? Doesn't the Beckman Coulter have stainless steel uh press buckets or no?
+
+[14:32] Yeah, these ones were stainless steel. I actually have aluminum as well. Right. Um so I mean aluminum buckets, aluminum when you're in so a centrifuge, uh, again, for those of you I don't know, it uh they spin and they separate things based on density. However, usually the in a swinging bucket rotor, the buckets they're they swing and they're buckets, hence swinging bucket rotor.
+
+[14:50] And this is what we use mostly in the kitchen because they have a much larger capacity for their size than uh what's called a fixed angle rotor, which normally uses tubes or bottles. And um the problem is most buckets are made out of aluminum, and aluminum uh tends to fatigue over time with flex, and so you get cracks and then they can c catastrophically fail. And when they do, so uh think of this. If you have a uh a swinging bucket rotor, each rotor has its own each bucket has its own weight plus an extra uh you know, seven hundred and fifty grams of product in it. That's 750 grams, if you're doing 4,000 G's, i it is has the equivalent weight of of like three thousand uh uh kilos or something like this.
+
+[15:31] So it's it's no joke. So when that thing flies off, it's it's really no joke. I'm very surprised uh that the Beckman Coulter stainless steel buckets broke because they don't typically show fatigue failures the way aluminum does. What was the failure mode of the bucket? Do you know?
+
+[15:48] I uh I can't it's like seven thousand, eight thousand. I I have to look at it, but I I remember just taking a peek at it. But no, but what did what happen how did the bucket actually break? Like what part of it broke. Oh at the top, right?
+
+[15:59] I mean, exactly where you would think it is. It's kind of like at the point where you latch it onto the rotor. Right. So yeah, so in a normal in a in a normal aluminum bucket, it's I it's probably machined, right? And then there's these two like big things where these pins, these fat pins from the rotor fit in, and the buckets slip onto 'em.
+
+[16:21] And in the stainless one, it looks like it's made out of sheet metal, right? I've never used the stainless ones. I I'm frankly, i is it possible that those the stainless ones are meant to only work with inserts and that they kind of flexed in under the force and popped out? I mean, that can be the only thing I could think of. Did it actually tear at the pin or did it flex and pop out at the pin?
+
+[16:44] I have no idea. It's probably too many, yeah. Literally like it like broke off. I'll send you another photo, but yeah, get a close up. I'd like to see a close-up of where you think the failure started.
+
+[16:53] So I can figure out on to your question. Enough enough of peppering you with questions. What's your what's your question? Well, okay, so I I had a bunch of questions. I mean we started using it and it it's been pretty useful and I figured out quite a bit.
+
+[17:05] But yeah, I was one of the questions was you know what we talked about right now, is like do different buckets need to use the inserts, you know? So maybe we don't know. Yeah, I mean I've never used this the one of the reasons I stayed away from the Beckman Coulters specifically is that the insides of their buckets uh are uh square. Right? Is that uh no, these are round.
+
+[17:28] Oh, they're round insides? Okay, so some of them have the square buckets, and I don't like square uh I don't like square buckets without inserts. The reason being that if you if you were to if you were to take a uh a tack, a strobe tack, which you can buy, I've done it with mine, which is a terrible idea, and you but you put a uh because I don't have a glass top on mine uh and you um put a in fact I think with someone beckling coulter somebody makes one that's meant to do this, and you just fire a strobe tack at it, you can you can get it to fire correctly either by tuning it by hand with it with a strobe tack or by uh putting a little reflective piece of tape on to trigger the attack and um uh with an external signal, you can freeze it, and when you freeze it, you'll see that as the thing is spinning, the liquids inside are rotating and scouring on the inside of the bucket. So my feeling has always been that in a square bucket where you have those uh side seams, that as it slows down, rather than settling, any like kind of less well-formed parts of the puck at the bottom of the of the thing are gonna are gonna get refluffed up to the top. You know what I'm saying?
+
+[18:34] Mm-hmm. So that's why I've always thought round bottoms were good. But anyway, so go ahead. Yeah. Um but mostly what I questions were is just about using clarifying components.
+
+[18:43] Like obviously the pectin's is pretty useful, but do you find that if stuff sits for a day that it goes cloudy again or stuff like that? I thought like I did banana juice and onion juice, and it both got cloudy. Right. So here's what happens. So you use the pectin X, and typically, especially on onion juice, I've noticed this, you you like we'll we'll do like a double spin on it because uh it doesn't knock out the pectin X doesn't get rid, and I I don't even know frankly whether it's all pectin or there's other kind of suspended uh hydrocolloids there.
+
+[19:13] But what you'll do is you'll do an initial clarification run and the sucker will look clear. The same thing happens, by the way, when you do uh quick agar clarification and things like this. So it looks pretty clear, and then you let it sit in the fridge, and then all of a sudden it kind of gets these wispy things and sometimes even goes full cloudy, or sometimes you get a precipitate or settle out. And what's happening is is that over time uh you know the the these things that are are soluble are in solution and therefore not making it cloudy, will agglomerate together, uh coalesce, and then become large enough to partially drop out of solution and make it cloudy again. So the solution there is just to uh or the answer I should say is to uh re-spin.
+
+[19:57] And uh we do we I do that uh a lot, and uh what I what I don't know, because I've never done uh a lot of testing on it because I just haven't had the time to really sit out and do it, is it's like, okay, if you do the onion juice and you just let it sit for two days before you do your first spin, would you still need to do a second spin? I don't know. You know, I don't know whether or not like removing all of that massive stuff is what allows these other things to that or that other pectins, whatever to to uh agglomerate together, or whether or not you would get a better or a simpler result if you just let it sit for a couple days before you spun it out. I I don't know. But it's a fairly common phenomenon to get some flock out and have to do a respin.
+
+[20:35] Okay, so it if I re-spin it, I'm not gonna see the cloudy again. No, you're done. Yeah. And so I noticed that you do it for about 15 minutes normally on a lot of stuff. Is there a benefit to do it longer or shorter or uh well I mean the longer you go, so again, when you turn on if if you were to if you were to get a strobe tack, which I would if I were you, that by the way, if what I'm talking about, guys, is a uh it's a strobe light that's that you can uh adjust how the rate of firing, and it allows you to freeze things like centrifuge buckets, like visually freeze them so you can see what's going on.
+
+[21:06] And if you were to if you fire up the centrifuge and you look at it with a strobe, you uh what you see is is that the the juice clarifies very very quickly. And then um once you once it's settling out. Now there are some things that take a long time to clarify out, and you have to spin for a long, long time. But in general, most of the products that we use are clarifying relatively quickly. But what you need to do is run it long enough to compress the puck so that it doesn't resuspend as it starts uh coming back uh as the as the speed starts slowing back down.
+
+[21:40] So, you know, a lot of times I'm doing um, you know, for events we're doing a lot of product, and so I try to get my spin times down as as low as possible without compromising quality. And so usually 15 is good enough, and so I don't try to go longer. Sometimes if I'm really in a bind, I'll I'll you know, I'll cut it to 10. Anything below 10, and I have a lot of times I'll have a lot of resuspension problems. I mean, some things are easier than others.
+
+[22:04] Bananas drop like a rock, you know what I mean? Like once you hit them with pectanex, banana pulp just like slams to the bottom of your of your thing, and it's you know not not a problem, whereas other things, you know, they they take a little more spinning. Like tomato usually throws a flock. And you know, if you want to also reduce your problems with that de aeration before you spin, makes it settle a lot faster because you don't have as many problems with air bubbles having to pop before it goes down. Surprising fact, you know, four 4,000 G is not enough to pop like kind of the micro air bubbles, and that's why a lot of times you'll get, especially on something like tomatoes, where you're blending it in a blender and it it it traps so much pulp, you'll get a mat on the top.
+
+[22:40] And I don't think that mat is caused by things that are inherently less dense, like oil. I'm pretty sure that that mat is just a trapped air mat. Do you cook the bananas first or do you uh to do that? Yeah, no cooker. No cook, but you have to make sure to use um ripe bananas, because raw bananas contain starch and the starch will not settle out on a centrifuge to get us to in our centrifuges anyway.
+
+[22:59] Like to get it to settle out, you need to you know you just wait a long, long time, and the starch will eventually settle out, or you could probably eat the starch with enamylase. But the issue is uh I I'm not sure whether the amylase starch can it withstand the alcohol environment that we do in a typical kind of banana Houstino situation. You know what I mean? Um I I pressure cooked them first with uh some baking soda and like caramelize them, and it turned out really good. I was that was my favorite thing.
+
+[23:29] Nice. Nice. Um and then just I uh I I I picked up two centrifuges because they might contact the university had it. But the other one is uh pretty is not quite as fast as about 2,000 G's. Right.
+
+[23:43] Is there much I can do with that or you're gonna have to probably is it fixed angle or swinging bucket? Uh fixed angle. Okay. So the good news for you is that fixed angle uh fixed angle rotors uh tend to get uh a better uh level of clarification at uh lower G forces and a swinging bucket does. So you can get good results with a uh a fixed angle running at 2,000 G's.
+
+[24:10] You're gonna probably have to spin a little longer, and obviously, you know, you probably don't have the same capacity in it. But if you look at a fixed angle rotor, a fixed angle rotor is holding uh the tubes at a relatively steep angle. And what that means is is that the average particle that you need to clarify out of solution needs to only travel a very short distance before it hits the uh side of the tube. And then it's scoured down towards the bottom where it pellets and forms a puck, but they have very strong pelleting uh capabilities, which means that you can do the kind of work that we're doing at relatively lower speeds and still get good results. So I'd say it should work for a lot of the recipes, not all of them.
+
+[24:53] Um I noticed you use the wine clarifying um uh chemicals as well. Do you is that helpful or is it I mean obviously helpful, but like how helpful? Oh, incredibly helpful. Like so, you know, when I'm doing lime juice or grapefruit juice, I usually use it on citrus products. Um you know, it uh it the stuff almost auto clarifies.
+
+[25:17] If you let lime juice sit around and you do the Kiesel salt and chitasan, which are the two wine finding agents I use in in conjunction with SPL, it'll settle just like apple juice will. And the only reason I centrifuge it is to increase my yield. I mean, I'd probably only get a without a centrifuge, I'd only and someone asked me this question later, I'm gonna get to it, hopefully, but you only get a yield of about 50%. Whereas uh, you know, with a centrifuge, I get something like 98% yield off of lime juice. Oh, very good.
+
+[25:44] Alright, well, I think the thing I I'm glad that it broke in some ways because now I know like your worst case scenario. That is the worst you you have experienced the worst case scenario. It's all uphill from here, my friend. But great. All right, well, thanks so much.
+
+[26:00] Alright, thank you. Stay warm. Alright. So back to Christian Hall from Denmark. Um thanks so much for your hugely inspirational radio show and blog.
+
+[26:10] Very nice. We like to hear comments, right, Stas. Uh I have university background in philosophy and literature. Well, I have philosophy. You have literature.
+
+[26:17] Yep. Yeah. Me, I don't read fiction because I'm a jerk. I miss fiction. I'm gonna start reading it again.
+
+[26:22] Yeah. You know, my my wife, who is editing, edited my uh, you know, well, I have an editor, Maria Gorna Shelley, but who like my wife is like, you know, read, and is the reason why I'm considered a writer is because my wife reads all this stuff. She goes, Dave, you need to read fiction so that your writing doesn't suck so much. Ah, that's what you're doing. She's so hard.
+
+[26:37] My wife's so hardcore. Uh anyway, uh, philosophy and literature and learning about the analytical approach to cooking that's at the center of the modernist movement, viewing a dish as a series of problems to be understood and solved was what convinced me there might be a point to putting my 30-year-old self through cooking school. And today, four years later, I'm running my own catering company. We've got versions of your gel and ice cream on the menu at least once a week, and are running our centrifuge based on your recommendations every day. Nice.
+
+[27:02] I like that. And you know, oh, I like I said before, I've never been to Denmark. Someday. Actually, it's not true. I flew into Denmark to go to Sweden, but we didn't stay.
+
+[27:09] Doesn't count. That's like saying I was in blah blah, I was in the airport. No, you weren't there. All right. Uh here are my questions.
+
+[27:15] For a while now, I've been experimenting with vacuum reductions using the aspirator slash stirring hot plate method outlined in modernist cuisine. But I'm finding that running the aspirator is too much of a hassle for us to really start making proper use of it. Could I switch to a diaphragm pump instead? And if so, what would some of the advantages and disadvantages be? I've also been toying with the idea of adding a cold finger.
+
+[27:35] Cold finger. I love that word cold finger, don't you? Cold finger. Cold finger condenser and uh receiving flask in between the boiling flask and the pump to try out distillations. Would this work even remotely well, or should I just hold off until we can afford a proper road of app, aka rotary evaporator?
+
+[27:51] Keep up the great work. Looking forward to getting my Sears all. Thanks. Christian Hall. Okay.
+
+[27:56] So for those of you that have no idea what we're just talking about, uh, here's the thing. So uh when you want to do uh reductions of things, let's just say port wine, because everyone wants to reduce port wine, right? Don't you like a port wine reduction? Yeah. Yeah, yeah, shut up.
+
+[28:09] Uh see uh so it the problem doing normal reductions is obviously they happen at high temperature. So what by putting something under under a vacuum, like in a rotary evaporator or a vacuum still, you can do reductions at um low temperatures. So you get very, very fresh, punchy flavors that haven't been altered by high, high heat. Now, the average bartender, so in a rotary evaporator, that's one of the things you can do. So the average bartender cares mostly about the distillate, right?
+
+[28:35] And so this aspirator thing that we're talking about, which I'll explain in a second, doesn't really help help with that. Uh but the average uh cook cares mostly about the reductions, what's in the reduction flask. And so for that is the aspirator. So Chris Young and Nathan Miravold, you know, and uh Maxine, when they were writing the miners cuisine, one of the things they said, hey, look, it's not just for rich people is they bought an aspirator. An aspirator is uh uses a kind of like a venturi effect.
+
+[28:59] You blow water, it doesn't have to be water actually, it could be anything else, but they use water, uh, out of a faucet uh as it goes through uh that entrains air and blasts it down and it creates a vacuum. And this is how uh you know, in high school, you used to make a vacu well, at least me, I didn't because I didn't do it in college. You know, this is how you'd make a vacuum in the lab. You'd have these water aspirators and you'd run, they'd run water into the sink. And now that and they'd work.
+
+[29:22] Now, the advantage of this kind of a pump, and so then what he did is he he hooked this up to an Erlenmeyer flask, which is a square uh you know, uh uh flat bottom flask uh with a neck. The neck went to the aspirator pump, uh, and then uh you know you have your product in there, you have a stir plate to keep it stirred so it doesn't bubble over, and you heat it a little bit because if you don't heat it at all, it'll just get colder and colder as stuff evaporates. It's evaporative cooling. So you have to heat it, even if you're doing room temperature distillation, and you suck the vacuum, and there you go. You get your reductions at low temperature.
+
+[29:53] Now, theoretically, this is gonna work. However, aspirators uh have two fundamental problems. First problem, they don't suck a very good vacuum, period. Because the amount of vacuum you can suck is dependent upon the vapor pressure of water at whatever temperature you're using. So if you're heating your product up, right, uh, you know, up to a reasonable level, then you have a good deal of difference between the boiling point of your product and the current vapor pressure of water at your cold water temp.
+
+[30:23] One of the ways to solve that is to recirculate the water in the aspirator and put ice into it. This lowers the vapor pressure of the water and allows you to get uh higher vacuums. The other disadvantage of aspirators is they have abysmal, abysmal pump rates. So you can, you know, pump very little uh actual volume of air, regardless of how good your um your you know the the ultimate vacuum you can attain is. Now, one way to get around this is to gang multiple aspirators together, like and I you know I've said this many times, but you know, you know, I don't know, ten years ago when I was first looking into or whatever, eight years, whatever it is, looking into doing vacuum distillation.
+
+[30:59] I turned to whoever, you know, the people who uh you know need vacuum distillation and can't go to normal channels and don't have money. Meth producers. And so meth producers online, they used to, I don't know whether they still have them, had a bunch of websites on how to basically you know set up a meth meth labs at home. And one of the things they're concerned with is vacuum, uh uh vacuum distillation. And so they would take what's called a float, they would go to Home Depot, they would buy a flowjet garden pump, which is like, you know, like to pump water, and they would pump it through multiple gang aspirators hooked up to PVC piping.
+
+[31:32] And I tried it, and it worked. I wasn't making meth. I was not making meth. Uh, and uh, but they, you know, it worked okay, but still it chokes up. It's not the best thing for it uh for doing a vacuum reduction.
+
+[31:44] So I really, you know, if you're gonna be doing a lot of it, I think you could play around with the aspirator, but Matt. Uh now, if you're gonna switch to a diaphragm pump, diaphragm, so the the two main pumps, once you throw the aspirator out, the two main pumps that you're gonna be dealing with are either uh a rotary vein pump, oil pump, and the only really affordable ones you can get are the styles for refrigeration. So Robin Air, uh, you know, yellow jacket, um, things like the JB. These are refrigeration pumps, and they make a boatload of them because every refrigeration tech in the country, probably in the world, I'm sure it's done the same way everywhere. Um, they take this uh refrigeration pumps and they pump the old uh refrigerant out of your of your refrigerator, and they have to suck like an amazing vacuum to completely dry down and get all the contaminants out of your refrigeration system before they recharge it.
+
+[32:30] So there's a lot of them out there, and they're relatively inexpensive. And they have a relatively high pump rate, and they have a relatively good ultimate vacuum uh down in the you know, like you know, a couple of millibars you can get down to, which is pretty damn good. Uh more than you need. Um they also have a fairly decent uh toleration of uh entrained moisture. Now, your problem, now if you're good at the diaphragm pumps, they don't get nearly as good uh uh a vacuum.
+
+[33:01] They're a lot more expensive, but they don't uh volatilize uh or put oil or smells into your kitchen, and they're a lot cleaner than and they're a lot quieter than uh the rotary vein pumps. So that's that's the kind of the trade-offs. Neither one of them is designed to handle large quantities of vapor. That's the only advantage of the aspirator, is that the aspirator can handle as much vapor as it can pump out, it can handle because it's not getting contaminated by the vapor. It's just shooting the vapor out into whatever, you know, whatever the trough is that you're putting it into.
+
+[33:35] So, in order to use either a diaphragm pump or a rotary vein pump, you will need a cold trap of some sort. So, in order to do this at all, this is a long answer to your question, you're gonna need the cold finger to uh condense your product back because the secret of distillation, which is what you're doing, whether or not you think of it as reduction or not, what you're actually doing in a closed system, which is what you're gonna need to do to get your vacuum to not choke on you, is to do uh actual distillation, and you need to supply as much cooling power to recondense your vapor as you supplied to um to boil it off in the first place. And there are pumps, uh, you know, like BOC Edwards makes a dry vein pump that I'm I hear can handle large amounts of vapor, but you're talking like three, four, three, four thousand, you know, bucks. Uh so is it worth trying to do distillations that way before you get a roto vap? Let me put it this way.
+
+[34:29] Uh I did it. Uh I got products I thought tasted good, and but all it did was wet my appetite to buy a rotovap, which I eventually did. And so I think it's kind of uh, you know, it's worth doing as a gateway, and as soon as you start playing around with it, you're gonna say to yourself, damn, I need to go buy myself a rotovap. And you probably will. Let me know.
+
+[34:53] Anyway, what do you think, stuff? Is that the reasonable answer to the answer the question? Yeah. Alright, let's go to a commercial break on cooking issues. The following program was brought to you by S.
+
+[37:36] Wallace Edwards and Sons. Edward's Suriano hams are aged to perfection for no less than four hundred days and hickory smoked to achieve a deep mahogany color. The Edwards name is well known for its world-class aged and cured meats. Their exclusive curing and aging recipe produces a unique flavor profile that enhances the quality characteristics of Berkshire pork. Optimum amounts of pure white fat marble and contribute to a flavor that's a delicate, perfect balance between sweet and salty.
+
+[38:06] For more information, visit Edwards VA Ham.com. Wow. Wow. Yeah, I think we've been using that one a little bit, but maybe it's a new mix. Jack had to make a never associated uh Sam Edwards' hams with uh Harmonica stands out a little bit more.
+
+[38:34] But I guess now now I will. Yeah. Uh yeah, all right. Well, yeah, we like we like their we like their product. Make they make an excellent product.
+
+[38:42] But you have to eat it to enjoy it. Am I right? Yeah. Oh, a caller. We have a caller.
+
+[38:47] Color you're on the air. Hey Dave and Sasha, happy new year. Happy New Year. Um I have a question about Koji. And um I bought some of the Cold Mountain Koji and I used it to uh make my own uh shio koji and uh make amazake successfully.
+
+[39:05] And um how was it? Now I want to experiment and get into making some miso and and and some other things. But instead of you know buying the tubs of the of the cold mountain or one from online, what I want to do is make my own um uh you know, Koji sport. So if I let the rice um uh go to spore, I was reading that there might be some risk of creating some um some toxins if it goes too far. So I'm wondering if you have any advice on on on doing this at home and uh how to how to get a good result so then I can culture all kinds of things that aren't are aren't uh aren't just rice.
+
+[39:45] Right. Okay, so uh first of all, how was the amazake? Was it good? Oh, it's delicious, really sweet. You can take it, put it it actually makes a great ice cream.
+
+[39:53] Really? I've been at the Yeah, yeah. It's already thick and and and uh just just blend it up and uh in in the blender and stick it in the freezer. It's got great texture. That's really an amazing idea.
+
+[40:04] I don't know why I never thought of that. That's a good idea. I might try that. Uh if we should if it's a good idea today. So uh not not today.
+
+[40:11] Uh although you can just walk outside with it right now, just like turn on the the blender and make it. Just kidding. Exactly. So for those of you that don't know what we're talking about, uh Koji uh is uh fundamentally you you you you have an aspergillus, I forget which which aspergillus, it's an aspergillus mold that's grown on uh uh on things like rice, uh, and uh you use that to instead of uh a malting thing as a base to break down carbohydrates for then further fermentation, right? And so you start with a koji base for things like sake for amazake for uh or for things like uh misos or uh other fermented things like this.
+
+[40:51] And it it's uh the problem being, and this is you know the question here, is there are asparagillus strains that are that do produce toxins. Uh I unfortunately, you know, the real guys to ask on this are the uh Mamafuku uh the Momofuku lab guys, because they you know they're the ones doing all of their own kind of misos and they do all their own koji work and all their own spirulation. If you were to take a something that you had that was already uh inoculated and then just keep that one and keep re-inoculating based on that, I would think your odds of contamination with something that's nasty is pretty low, but I don't have enough experience for me to um go out on on a limb. And so, you know, I ask like having me say something, I would just be respouting stuff from Shirtleaf's Miso book and from Sandra Katz's fermentation book. So I you know I hesitate to give you my own kind of advice on it, you know.
+
+[41:53] Okay. Um I guess I'll I'll have a I'll I'll send an email to the Mobafuku lab guys and um if I get a response. Yeah, like Ryan over there, right? You know, I I I can ask him. I mean when I when I see him, so you know, fundamentally you just want to know like how to how to tell if something bad has happened.
+
+[42:12] Well, I want to make my own, you know, what they call Kochi Kin, right? Which is the it's the spores themselves. So then you can sprinkle that stuff on on pretty much anything and then you know, go to town and experiment. Um you can order some spores online, but then you know, you have a finite amount. Right.
+
+[42:30] Or you can take or I can buy, you know, like the cold mountain um Koji, which is already rice, grow it, and then harvest off the um some of the uh uh some of the spores from from that. Uh you know, so that's that's really that's really the question. Yeah, I mean I don't know that they do it so you so in other words you want something that you can like do once, then save as a dry form for a long time and then do again and like be guaranteed of good results. Exactly. Yeah.
+
+[43:00] I'll look into it and and and and uh I'll I'll uh because your feeling is if you just save some and just kind of dehigh it, grind it up and then powder that back in that you won't necessarily have the efficacy that you need. That's that's the that's a worry. Or you know, or will that work, I guess is the question. I mean, I think that probably will propagate it. I mean, I probably yeah, all right.
+
+[43:25] I I'll uh look this is something I should know, and I'm embarrassed for not knowing off the top of my head, so I'll look into it and Stas, write write uh write an email to yourself so that we have it for next week. And next week I'll get the answer for you because if I don't I'm about to able to fan uh answer it, I'll just ask the Momo lab guys myself and we'll we'll we'll get to the bottom of it for you for next week. Thank you kindly. Alrighty, talk to you so uh Joe from Chicago uh writes in about kitchen design. Hey Dave and Cooking Issues Crew.
+
+[43:53] I currently live in downtown Chicago. Also cold there. Some cold over there. I currently live in downtown Chicago and have plans to move out of the city in the next year or two. In the meantime, I've been obsessing over designing the perfect kitchen.
+
+[44:07] And given your recent move, I figured I'd ask you the following questions. What's most important to you when establishing uh yourself in a new kitchen space in terms of organization, placement of appliances, maximizing efficiency, etc. I would love to hear a rant on your approach to kitchen design and how will your approach change if you weren't crammed into a tiny NYC space. Alright, well, after the second section of that, how would how would my approach change if I wasn't crammed into a tiny space? I would definitely I would just have more freaking equipment.
+
+[44:35] It's not even just the space, it's also my power limitations. I live in an apartment and uh, you know, I have relatively unlimited supplies of gas, but I have very limited supplies of electricity, uh, which means that you know my ovens have to fire on gas. Uh I can only have a single group espresso machine. Whoa, pity me, mom. Uh douche.
+
+[44:59] Uh but the uh I'm a dish. Big douche, big douche, big douche. So uh, you know, so for me in an apartment, space management is a key issue, power management also an issue. Ventilation also an issue. Very hard to get good ventilation in a uh, you know, in a New York City apartment because it's hard to compromise window space and you're not allowed to punch a whole lot of holes in your wall.
+
+[45:19] Uh, even regular home ventilation that most people get just sucks. It's just so bad. I mean, the thing that I would do, the first thing that I would invest in when you invest in a new kitchen is invest in proper ventilation and makeup air so that you can run your kitchen without smoking it. And when I say run it, I mean beat it hard. You want to fire up all your burners.
+
+[45:43] You want to be cooking something at a billion degrees in your oven if you want to, and you know, grilling something, and you don't want to have the rest of your family run in there and be like, the house is full of smoke, it's full of smoke, it hurts my eyes. You know what I mean? This is not what you want to have happen. You want to be able to beat on your kitchen and have the smoke go away. And I've said this for a long time.
+
+[46:04] I think in kitchens, like I hope that in the next 10 years, one of the things people focus on more is air quality in the in the kitchen in terms of ventilation as being a major problem to be dealt with in the average home kitchen. And I don't really know whether it's just because people don't cook enough at home anymore or what, but people aren't concerned enough about ventilation, except for when you're about to cook, and then everyone's concerned about are we gonna set up the smoke detectors? Are you gonna set up the smoke detectors? And so people actually cook in a crappy fashion at home because they haven't bothered. There are people that out there who have like $5,000, $6,000 stoves, right?
+
+[46:43] And they won't use them to their maximum capability because they're worried about setting off the freaking smoke detectors in their house because they haven't invested in proper ventilation to use their cooking equipment properly, right? Now, second rant about uh cooking equipment is that I use uh exclusively professional uh ranges at home, even though I'm not supposed to. Uh and I'll tell you why. Home ranges don't have the power. They I looked at them like the average like professional style, and you can see my hands making those dumb quote things, but like professional style home ranges, they cost a lot of money, and the burners just don't have the oomph.
+
+[47:24] They're just not powerful enough to do what I want them to do. Um, you know, so you know, I I prefer, and I don't always use it, but I prefer to have a burner in the you know, I don't need it like mega, I don't need a 35 uh K BTU uh burner, but I like to have a burner that can, if you want to pump up to like in the and I and I know when I say this many times, measuring something based on BTUs alone is dumb because it's a measure of how much energy it uses, not a measure of how much energy it puts into the pan. A good induction unit can beat a uh you know, a 30,000 BTU burner any day. But that said, I'm I'm a mainly a gas person for the reasons I said earlier. Uh and the 30,000 in that range is where I kind of need to be to really get the power I want.
+
+[48:08] But you want to choose a burner that throttles down appropriately and that has a flame pattern that can accommodate both large pans and small pans without uh uh too much difficulty. Alright. If you're gonna invest, I would invest also in if you can get an electric oven, preferably convection, I would do that. I mean, so the ultimate in terms of unless you're gonna go full induction and go really nice and get used to it, which I've never done, you know, you're gonna want gas range and electric uh of it with good ventilation, right? Uh back in the day when I had space when I lived in a loft and power, you know, it was like three phase power because it was a sweatshop that it used to be before I moved in there.
+
+[48:46] I had a uh I had uh a blogged commercial convection oven, and that thing was a cookie machine. That thing I could blast out cookies and uh you know, non hearth bread bread styles, like nobody's business. Six pan, uh a six pan commercial uh convection oven, like the baking things, they're monsters. I would definitely recommend one of those. Now, in terms of I would get a commercial espresso machine, but that's me, and a seltzer rig, which you asked about, and I'll talk about in a minute.
+
+[49:14] I mean, that's kind of you know just stuff that I that I would want. But like once you have an espresso machine that's plumbed, you're never gonna want to go back to something that's not plumbed. Another thing, foot pedals. Put foot pedals on your sink. Let me just say this again.
+
+[49:24] Put foot pedals on your sink. People don't really know how to install them, so you're gonna have to learn to either get a plumber who's willing to work with you or learn to do a little bit of the plumbing yourself. TNS Brass sells a couple of ones that can have I don't want only foot pedals, I want foot pedals and uh wrist action handles uh as well. Here's something that uh I want you to consider. Why would you ever want to touch the handle of a faucet when your hands are dirty in the kitchen?
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+[49:51] I'm gonna repeat this. Why would you ever want to touch the handle of a faucet when your hands are dirty in the kitchen when you could just use a foot pedal? My right stuff? Mm-hmm. Yeah, yeah, she said I don't care.
+
+[50:00] But foot pedals, everyone that's ever used them is like, everyone who's like, I talked about like that's ridiculous. Why do you need the foot pedals? And then uh when you when they actually use it, they're like, why have why does everyone not have the foot pedals? Everyone loves the foot pedals. The only problem with the foot pedals is uh cleaning around them can be a difficulty.
+
+[50:15] They make ones that are mounted high so you can clean under them easier, but I didn't have the capability to put that in. Another thing, unusual, but I think is rec uh a nice thing to have is if you can afford uh a six a standard kick is like three and a half inches, like the two by four on its side uh for things. If you can afford six inches and lift everything off the ground, really nice to clean under. And by the way, the Roomba can get underneath a six-inch thing. So it cleans underneath all of my all of my uh uh stuff, which is nice in the kitchen to be able to clean all the way uh underneath everything.
+
+[50:43] Another thing in the kitchen you're gonna want to look out for is uh your movement. I unfortunately now have to be in a galley kitchen. Oh, and light. Just tons of light. If you can, uh uh, I used to, in my old place, my kitchen was uh, you know, not was almost a part of my living room, and I had I put uh strong lights with barn doors on them so that I could shield the light from going into the living room and spilling over.
+
+[51:05] But uh kitchen without light is just it's just stupid. It's just dumb, right? Uh, in organization on it, I mean the way I had it before in my old place, I liked a lot better because it wasn't uh linear right now. Like I said, I'm in a galley. So right now my oven is next to my sink.
+
+[51:20] If you can arrange it so that two people can fit, if you can have like a good four feet uh you know clear space, have the long sink. I had a long I have a long sink with cutting boards that mount in my sink so I can go directly into the dispose all with cuttings, which makes it nice for like you know, speed. But then you can you can cut and prep and wash and then turn around and be at your stove. I like that a lot. I like that a lot.
+
+[51:42] Now, another thing on organization that I would say uh here's my cardinal rule, and it got messed up over time. Uh, but now that I'm back in a new place, I'm able to like exert more control over it. Only ever stack like on like. Never stack like on dislike things. What do I mean by this?
+
+[52:02] I detest nesting bowls where you have a little bowl and a slightly larger bowl, in a slightly larger bowl, in a slightly, and they're all made of heavy glass, and so I want that one in the middle, bah! And I gotta like get it, and then I gotta root around, or you have baking pants. It's ridiculous. You don't need that many sizes of bowl. You really only need, I have let me look in my head.
+
+[52:21] One, two, three, I have four size of stainless steel bowl. I have the thin, crappy ones that aren't presentation bowls, and I can stack ten of them, and that only takes up like an extra inch and a half of room because they stack so closely together. I have a tiny one I use for tiny mise en plus and for things like olive pits. I have a slightly larger one, a little bit larger one, and a big one that I use for uh salad prep and things like this and and and any time someone puts one inside of the other it's the wrong size I lose my I lose my freaking mind. You know what I mean?
+
+[52:53] I have uh two different sizes of Pyrex measuring uh cups that I use and they're stacked only like on like I have Bay and Marie's I have two sizes they stack like on like and here's another one for you when you're designing consider putting in a speed rack you know uh a you know a tray sheet tray pan right because what do you whenever you why is it that when you make I don't know what you celebrate right but why is it that when you make Christmas cookies or whatever why is it your kitchen gets so hosed? It's because or when you're making pizzas it's because you have no place to put the freaking things when they're done or when they're coming out or why is it that everything gets so ruined is because you have no place in your kitchen to put all this stuff as you're cooking. A speed rack is like it lets you uh you know store sheet trays either halves or fulls um in in in like a tall thing with food on them so then you can have I did you know a couple days ago I made Christmas cookies late because I didn't get to make my mom's well they're my mom's they're actually my great great grandma's bonbon cookies that I like so I made them after Christmas and I just put them in my speed rack blep blep blep blep and I was able to put you know eight dozen cookies into the speed rack and I had to go. So those are what do you think? Some good recommendations?
+
+[54:00] Yes. Now you had one more question and it's regarding seltzer you want to do a seltzer uh rig and use you link to something called soda soda isp so no soda dispenserdepot.com as a turnkey thing. The system they have looks like it will work. I recommend the only valve I recommend currently uh are CM Becker valves for soda. Most valves I don't like, even the style that looked like they emulate the old bash and blessing styles.
+
+[54:28] Most people don't make a decent one. Go to Fox Equipment, FOXX equipment, and look up their number one two C03-208 Ibis 1 faucet tower. That's the one I have, and it is the balls. I love that thing. It really makes very high quality, it dispenses high quality seltzer, and it's got a really nice compensator mechanism so you can adjust the flow rate, and I lose very, very few bubbles off of it.
+
+[54:53] I use a McCann carbonator that I put through a coal plate. I use a Manitowoc ice machine. I have their their business, their business luncheon room one that you can shut off the thing when you want and makes really nice ice cubes. I drilled holes in the side, put a coal plate in, goes through the McCann carbonator, which I run at 100 PSI with a 20-pound CO2 tank. I can post pictures later.
+
+[55:13] But anyway, so that's that's what I use. Kenneth Ing Wait, are we gonna get kicked off the air? Yeah. Oh my gosh. That's been a couple weeks since we've been on.
+
+[55:21] So I so next week I have to talk about uh uh uh chip and his egg machine. I have a question from Dave Kleiman regarding gummy bears. I have a question on cooking uh spiny lobsters from Josh and Antigua versus uh versus uh uh our lobsters, which you know I haven't actually I could talk a lot about cooking lobsters, but I haven't cooked a lot of spiny lobster. Uh Matt in Akron asked me about lime juice and how to clarify it without a centrifuge. I have answers, but I won't be able to get it to it.
+
+[55:49] Uh today, Matt McCarrari, your free saw question on gelatin I will get to. Uh and John on a sand bitter and spice question. Uh maybe I'll answer some of these on Twitter if I can do it shortly, or maybe we will get to them next time. But Kenneth Ingber, we'll leave on this. Uh longtime listener and also supporter of the museum, uh, says this.
+
+[56:06] Uh I was just thinking about the Sears all and came up with this question. Is there any danger associated with the angle of the canister? That is, there's gas phase in the upper portion of the canister and liquid phase in the bottom. When you tip the canister, the liquid could be delivered to the head rather than the gas. Does this pose a safety issue?
+
+[56:22] Winter backpackers and cold garage tinkerers deal with this issue because propane and butane are not very good in cold weather. I think it's because of not enough uh gas phase pressure in coal weather is true. That's why you have to change the orifice size if you know you're gonna be working in the cold. So the strategy is to sometimes tip the canister and deliver liquid phase. Sometimes this is an effective strategy, and sometimes you see a warning that this can be very dangerous.
+
+[56:43] Sometimes you see people complaining that the torch flame goes out. I saw in one place that the Burnsomatic talks about needing to use a pressure regulated canister if you're gonna turn it upside down. The literature for the TS 8000 says during use, hold hand torches upright to prevent flare-ups or flashes. So I'm asking about how this might be uh how this issue might affect the sears all. Clearly, burns onatic torches do not regularly explode under common issues.
+
+[57:04] However, the very high temperature and size the sears all head could pose a special danger. I think I remember Dave saying he recommends using the TS 8000 head, but what if you don't use it and just find that whatever your handy neighbor has in his garage? And this being a consumer product, your average user is not going to dependably take any special precautions. Best wishes to Dave, the crew, and you, Nastasha, for a happy new year, Ken. Alright, so the issue here is delivering liquid out of the uh thing and and some torches, the Burns Matic actually has uh some precautions to uh prevent you from dispensing liquid out of it, which is one of the reasons I like the 4000 and the 8,000.
+
+[57:38] If you turn them all the way upside down, yeah, they don't work they don't work as well, but they're meant to work fairly well in as a multi multiple position torch, even if they're not recommended. Iwatani, one of the reasons that the Iwitani is such a pain in the butt is they go through very great um uh pains to have and that's why if you look in a newitani torch, they have a thin tube running through that all the butane runs through to pre-volatilize and it warms it before it gets to where the uh orifice is so that it's always going to be a gas when it comes out, no matter what orientation you hold the torch. Now the issue is not so much one of uh safety. When it flames out, it's gonna flame out. But that's why the reason why the if you look at one of the searsols, the reason why it's angled, why it looks like a you know an old like 60s car front is because um we noticed that uh in our first production and our first uh prototypes that had a flat face.
+
+[58:28] When you turn the torch, the torches we were using all the way uh so that the face was uh parallel to meat or you know, parallel to a table surface, that you would start uh deli would start having problems with liquid delivery, especially when uh not a safety problem, but a problem with the actual flame. And you would get this noise, and you would get a fluttering, and this is especially exacerbated by the fact that you get a lot of um air uh and hot vapor coming back up off of the torch head directly back up in line with the torch. And that's why we angled the searsol head such that the torch would always be slightly inclined, even when the searzole itself was uh perpendicular to or sorry, parallel to uh your work surface. So that's why we did that. Uh it's not prime it it's irritating like like uh those flame mounts and stuff are irritating, but I don't think they particularly pose uh a safety issue.
+
+[59:19] Now, uh torches that don't have this kind of uh nice dispensing feature, they're not really gonna be high enough power anyway to do what you want with a searzole. I really highly recommend uh and I think pretty for the most part, anyone that's buying one kind of uh and we'll go into paints. Eventually we want to make our own torch or you or like link it with a torch sale. But you know, we we couldn't really for that for the first one around. But um, and if I was going to do one, I would definitely make it possible to fire it in any direction uh uh possible.
+
+[59:44] But anyway, that's that's my answer on that. So that's is something we think about quite a bit, and that's why the front head of the Sears All is angled. And we'll get those next questions. I'll either answer some of them on Twitter or we'll get them on next week on Cooking Issues, Cooking Issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org.
+
+[1:00:11] You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today.
+
+[1:00:35] Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Whether you're a homeowner creating your dream space or a pro managing multiple projects, discover a new way to shop at Ferguson Home, where great ideas become stunning spaces. Visit FergusonHome.com to explore the best selection of bath, kitchen, and lighting products. Or book an appointment at one of our showrooms where you can experience products firsthand and get personalized expert support every step of the way. Bring your vision to Ferguson Home, where it all comes together. Shop top brands like La Cornew or find your local showroom at Ferguson Home.com.
+
+[0:30] Today's program has been brought to you by Hearst Ranch, the nation's largest single source supplier of free range, all natural, grass-fed, and grass-finished beef. For more information, visit Hearstranch.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Hello and welcome to Cooking Users.
+
+[1:01] This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Users coming to you live from Robert's Pizzeria in Bushwood Brooklyn on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from 12 to around one or so, uh here in the studio as usual with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. How you doing, Stas? Good, how are you? I'm doing all right. I'm I'm multi-computer today.
+
+[1:16] I've got my iPad and my iPhone in one hand and my computer in the other, because it's a little bit of a a research cordal you this morning, which Cordal U is uh my son Booker's uh term for anything that's uh cluster beep. He calls it a Cordelieu named after the I don't think it's after the famous surveyor or the uh the politician who is related to the surveyor, but I think it's after the actual stop on the subway. Yeah. But it's one of those few words that Stas and I, you've you and I both use Cordalie to mean professional email. Yeah, to mean cluster, you know what, and nobody ever questions it.
+
+[1:49] No one ever questions it, so it must be one of those like it's not that it's an on omatopoeia. That's not exactly right, but I think it's like a vocab word they think they didn't study for a test. Right. They're like, oh what's something I don't know. Right, but if so accurately describes, you know, like complete cluster feed that you know that it's like, oh Corlia.
+
+[2:08] And so you know what I mean? Because it sounds like it's all tied up and messed up, you know what I mean? Like we're kinda spread it. Cortel you. We want people to use it, so use it.
+
+[2:18] Use it, use it, use it, and uh, you know, when you do, think of Booker. Uh his birthday today, did I say that? And Dax. Dax and birthday. Uh, Dax and Booker's birthday today, Booker and Dax.
+
+[2:28] Uh three years separated, same birthday, because I'm just that efficient. No, it's uh or I should say my wife, I guess, is that efficient. She's like, we're having babies exactly one day. And that's it. No, but uh yeah, both uh both born same day, three years apart.
+
+[2:46] Uh fun. Fun times. And like they get in arguments about like uh am I am I gonna have the birthday party separate this year, am I not? Uh well it turns out they were not gonna have their birthday parties together, but now they are again. But uh I used to have I used to every year I don't have my s my amazing pizza oven, although I could probably still you know fix my new oven in time to do pizza, but for every year it's been make your own pizzas, but you know, I've had the eight hundred and fifty degree Fahrenheit pizza oven.
+
+[3:11] I I can my there's still a couple days left I can modify, you know, for the but they're like I want I want crappy commercial when I when I say my kids like crappy commercial pizza, I'm not referring to like other fine pizza makers. Like for instance the folks at Robertis who make a delicious fine pizza that I would be proud to have at a birthday party that my kids were were I mean, they like the lowest of the low. I'm not gonna call any particular people out as making a low quality pizza. But whatever. It's it's depressing.
+
+[3:39] They're like, I prefer a low quality pizza. But how do they have that low quality pizza? They got who first I don't know how they got we live near uh we ni live near a major national chain uh chain of low quality pizza purveyors and uh I don't know, they somehow they saw it and then it got hooked up. Who knows how the hell hi kids get hooked into things, you know what I mean? But now they would actually prefer it.
+
+[3:59] And I I mean I I'm not tooting my own horn. I'm not saying I make the best pizza in the world, but uh it's a whole h hell of a lot better than uh this crap that they request. You know, it's got the those commercial pizza, the crust is always terrible. Sauce is always wasted. Well now you're you're giving a chance, uh you're giving a little hook into what they what uh the i look if their ingredients are better that begs the question better than what?
+
+[4:24] What was it before? Yeah, what was it before? Like if this is your better ingredient, like if this is like this is like, you know, this is your you know, the top of your line there, you know, like what are you do like you know, whatever. I'm not even gonna get into it. I'm not I'm not even gonna start.
+
+[4:37] Call your questions to 7184972 eight, that's 7184972128. Joined in the engineering booth. Do we have both of you guys over there now? We have uh Jack and Evan. We have Jack and Evan, yeah.
+
+[4:47] Hi, huh? Hey guys. Happy New Year, Dave. Happy, happy new year. Yeah.
+
+[4:50] Well, I forget we called you out l uh about New Year's last time on the last show, right? But I forget what Stas said something kind of. Well, you know, Nastasha now, whenever she sees someone in Manhattan. Yeah, yeah. Well now you live in Manhattan.
+
+[5:00] How you like in the Manhattan? It's awesome. Everyone who lives in Brooklyn is like I love it here in Brooklyn. Until they move to Manhattan, they're like, Oh. Yeah.
+
+[5:08] Yeah. Oh. Where are you exactly? Not exactly that. Yeah, I'm not giving the exact address here, but uh like uh right on First Street.
+
+[5:16] Uh actually second street, first half. Oh, so you're right right still still near the near the L. Can't give up on the L, right? I'm close enough. No, because that'd be the 14th.
+
+[5:24] He's got the first and you walk up to 14th, it's not that bad. I mean, I walked there from twenty-ninth, whatever today. Uh, not that anybody cares. Okay, we got some questions in from last week that I didn't get a chance to take care of, so let's take care of some of them first. John writes in, hey Dave, Hammer and crew.
+
+[5:39] Uh slowly but surely making my way through the back episodes, which uh make the subway rides go by pretty quickly. Although I do get strange looks when I burst out laughing from something you said. Uh well, I you know, I appreciate that. Hopefully, it was actually intended to be funny and not like the semi-serious things I occasionally say. Uh just became a heritage radio donor uh uh to keep the great program coming.
+
+[5:59] Yay! Thank you. Uh have two quick questions. In a previous podcast, you ended the show talking about sand bitter and alluded to a recipe to reproduce it, but of course ran out of time. Would love to know your thoughts on how to reproduce that.
+
+[6:11] Well, of course, uh, you know, the cooking issues crew loves anything compari uh or apparol related, and sand bitter is the uh small, I think it's made by Pellegrino, right? Sand bitter? I'm not sure. Yeah, I think so. It sounds right.
+
+[6:26] Yeah, but it's red like Kampari, and it has the same basic kind of flavor component. I know it's not the same, please don't send any any nasty things in. But it's got the uh the same thing. So the question is then uh how to make that uh flavor yourself. And uh so, you know, I didn't have an actual recipe recipe, just an I idea for it, but we tested out some um some ideas yesterday.
+
+[6:48] So Kampari and therefore also sand bitter. The bitterness uh is mainly from uh wormwood, right? I mean the worm the like if you if you were to just taste a straight uh decoction of wormwood, uh you would notice that the um that the bitterness of it, that particular bitterness note is the bitterness note from the end of uh compari, right? So there you have it. Uh there's also, I think, some gention in it, which is another uh bittering agent.
+
+[7:18] Uh, and of course, the citrus peels. Now, I believe Kampari and sandbitter use a um use a uh like a bitter orange peel like a quinotto or something like that, which I didn't have available to me when I was testing. Uh now, of course, there's also all sorts of other flavors that they layer on top as top notes, but the base notes are the citrus uh peels, the uh wormwood, and possibly I think gention. We added it to the recipe we tested. So uh now without alcohol, how do you do it?
+
+[7:48] The best way is a heat steep. Now I could get into more kind of technical stuff trying out the ISI infusions and whatnot, but I figured for a first guess, let's try to do just a straight old-fashioned heated teas, right? And you can heat it fairly. You're not gonna maybe you're gonna affect the aromatics somewhat as opposed to a long steep, but doing it in water, uh I figured it would be a good first approximation. So uh we did five grams of each of those three, uh, each of those four flavors, grapefruit peel, orange peel, sweet oranges from uh the U.S.
+
+[8:15] that we didn't have the good uh, you know, stuff. We got it at the what's called the dual specialty shop, which is similar to a Calustian's here in uh in New York. Uh wormwood, F and Genchin, all at five grams per 200 mils. Uh we nuked them in the microwave so we wouldn't get too much boil off, and then let them steep under mild agitation for five minutes. And then we made mixtures of those uh together.
+
+[8:38] And we used a hundred mils of the grapefruit, a hundred mils of the orange, fifteen mils of the wormwood decoction, five mils of the gention. To that we added 20 grams of sugar to take it to about a uh 10 and a half bricks uh solution. Um a pinch of salt to round it out. Chilled it and carbonated it. Now it's it's a it's a it's a golden brown.
+
+[8:59] It's a reach golden brown. What commercial used to they used to say golden brown all the time? But it's in my head since I was a little kid. Like I can't say golden brown. I have to say a golden brown.
+
+[9:12] But the um someone will remind me what commercial that was. Uh but so that tasted pretty much like sand bitter. Now what you it like compari, uh compari when they make it comes out light brown. Uh so you know, they color it with color. They used to use uh Cochinillo like squished up bug stuff, but they don't use the squished up bug stuff anymore.
+
+[9:32] So uh then we tried though, interestingly, I need I feel felt that it needed more uh grapefruit than that, and more and more orange than that. So we tried just doing a straight base of uh 220 grams water, 20 grams of sugar, uh one point.125 grams of gention, point three seven five grams of wormwood, uh 3.75 grams of orange and five grams of grapefruit peel uh for you know five minutes deep on a heat tea, and it was good, but it didn't taste quite as much like sand bitter as the other one. We that needed uh it was maybe a little too much grapefruit and and then it needed a little more wormwood than that, but just so you know, uh that's what we tried out. And so, John, you can give that a test for your sand bitter alternative. And of course, like I say, you can add the top notes and stuff, but that's pretty much the base.
+
+[10:20] I think even Stas had she been there because she was she was not there when we tested it, she was at the Stanford, what is it called? Stanford Alumni Women New York Network Board. Say that again. Yeah. Uh Stanford Women Network New York Board meeting.
+
+[10:38] Young. Young. No, not young, not young. Not young. Well, they think they're old, but well, and and uh so they had a uh what was what they call it?
+
+[10:44] Board meeting. But it was like also a a mixer, right? Yeah, a mixer with with icebreaker or something. Icebreaker, that's what they call it. Icebreaker.
+
+[10:55] And what did what did they serve for their icebreaker? Ice water. Whoa! Whoa. Stas.
+
+[11:03] Yeah. Stash. It's rough. Just uh. If you're gonna be on the board and you're gonna have something like you have an icebreaker, you know, ice water does not an icebreaker make.
+
+[11:16] You gotta take that thing over. You gotta you just gotta take that thing over. All right. Uh second question, John had in regards to spice storage for home use. What is your current system?
+
+[11:25] I have been using four or six ounce round paint or cream jarls jars, jarls from uh Pearl Paint and storing them in a drawer, which serves a dual purpose of keeping out light and away from heat. However, I'm running out of drawer space and now looking for more options. Uh hope all's well. Uh John. So the b the the problem with spice storage is I mean, a lot of times it's good to keep it away from uh light.
+
+[11:47] Some some spices are light sensitive. For me, the big problem is you need to see what's where spices are. Like I have a bunch of stuff and then you end up not using the spices you have because you don't know where they are. My old kitchen, which I just left, I had a bunch of um knife magnets that I mounted under my cabinet in a strip. Like I had like six feet of or five feet of knife magnets, and then I bought jars with um metal tops and just smacked them up so that you could have a line of spices.
+
+[12:16] Uh in I haven't done that in my new kitchen yet. We're still figuring out exactly how. Right now I'm not so happy with my spice storage. I have a very narrow shelf pantry on one side with uh four-inch shelves that go all the way up and it's nowhere near a window, so I don't worry about light. And I'm gonna have spices there, but the problem is it's not dense enough.
+
+[12:34] The shelves are bottle height right now and need to make them shorter so I can go. But I usually put them into small, uh small containers as small as they will uh will go, unless it's something that I use a lot of at a time, like coriander, because I do a lot of infusions with coriander and those things I keep in quart containers. Um but I don't have as good a solution as I had in my old kitchen yet with the knife knife uh you know what I'm talking about with the magnetic knife things, right? They make fantastic spice storage things. People used to come and be like, where'd you get that?
+
+[13:00] I'm like, it's a knife rack, you jerk, you jerk. I didn't say that because why would I say that? It's not they're not jerks just because they didn't know how I did it, right? Okay. Uh Matt Mikari wrote in uh because I don't think I answered this about uh gelatin, did I?
+
+[13:12] I think you did. Did I? You can go over guys. Oh no, I won't. If I answered it, we'll figure out over the break whether I answered about freestyle and gelatin.
+
+[13:19] And if if I did, then you know, uh, whatever. Uh Matt Nacron wrote in about clarifying lime juice. I watched a couple of videos on the web where you talk about clarifying lime juice. You mentioned that Petanex ultra SPL doesn't work because the pH is too low. My question is could you raise the pH enough for it to work without significantly impacting the flavor?
+
+[13:36] Maybe using sodium citrate or something like that. Is that a dumb idea? I'd like to there are no dumb ideas, just dumb people. Uh I'd like to be able to clarify lime juice without a centrifuge, and I'm not very good at massaging the bag. Well, uh, not very many people, uh, Matt, are very good at massaging the bag.
+
+[13:54] A good way actually around massaging the bag, if you if you don't mind doing the agar, but um don't aren't good at at getting a good yield out of it, is use a salad spinner. And that's what I teach a lot of people to do, is is yeah, you have to make sure that whatever your draining cloth is that you tie off at the top into like a Santa's Christmas sack or use like a uh that's gross or like a nut milk bag or something like that and tie it off with that stuff like that Nastasha gets an image the nut milk bag nut milk bag tie it off at the top throw it into a salad spinner and give it a good spin and uh that's a good way to ensure that you don't uh for over uh squeeze a bag when you're trying to do uh quick agar clarification now if you uh I wouldn't try raising the uh the pH uh on it I don't don't think you're gonna have satisfactory results if you don't mind losing a lot of product it also depends on how clear you need it if you just need it to be clear because you're carbonating and you don't need it to be crystal clear here here's how it works. So my normal centrifuge uh technique is I add pectinex ultra spl even though it doesn't work a hundred percent it does help uh in clarifying lime juice which is you know very acidic I add pectinx ultra spl and um Keselsaw right so Kesel saw is a wine finding agent and they call it D1. It's part of a two uh two part system right so you add the SPL and the Kiesel saw together you can get it any homebrew shop Keselsaw and chitasan together. So I add um two grams per liter you don't want to add more and you don't want to add less.
+
+[15:26] When you're working with uh charged things like that if you're way over or way under you can um you can reduce the efficacy or even like make it anti-effective you can stabilize things if you add too much. So you want to add two grams per liter of that you want to stir it thoroughly wait 15 minutes and then you want to add uh two grams of kitasan which is from uh shrimp shells. It's a polysaccharide solution to that same thing and stir it. Now, if you let that settle, that will will clarify. It will settle out, it will still be slightly cloudy.
+
+[15:57] Slightly cloudy. If you then add and you let it sit for an hour or two, it will settle out and be slightly cloudy. If you add, after another 15 minutes uh after you add the chitosan, another two grams per mil of Kesel Sol, stir it and let it sit for an hour or two. The stuff on the top will be crystal clear, right? But the problem is your yield will be very low.
+
+[16:21] It will not settle nearly as much as the uh one that you only did the Kiesel Sol and Kita San to. But the stuff that's at the very top will be crystal clear. Expect yields on the order of 30%, though, of crystal clear stuff. And you can just pour it off the top. Make sure you do it in a round container.
+
+[16:37] So if it's if you just want to test that, it's very easy to test, and maybe just the uh the the you know um not perfect clarification of Kesel Sol and Kita San, which gets very good yields on the order of like 60 to 75%. Maybe that's clear enough for you. But give it a shot. Uh let me know how it goes. Um Josh from uh Coolidge Antigua wrote in uh what a guan.
+
+[17:03] That's what you said for like what's going on. Uh was wondering what uh what weird no, I mean it's Antigua, man. Uh uh was wondering if you can explain any differences in low temperature cooking between North Atlantic lobster and spiny rock lobster. Also, uh, would you explain um the butter poaching that I did? How do you kill the lobster?
+
+[17:21] And finally, what's up with using dry lupini uh beans? They take forever to get the alkaloid taste out. How do you cook them? I don't have an answer on the lupini beans yet. I gotta I gotta work on that.
+
+[17:31] Also, I might add, I don't have a firm answer we had before on the question about making your own koji from uh from uh what's it called? Uh homemade, you know, from wild products instead of using uh somebody else's uh starter. I was supposed to get in touch with the guys at Mamafuku Labs who do this all the time, but uh we kept cross crossing paths. I haven't gotten in touch with them, and I haven't been able to find anything definitive other than people who didn't seem like they could make authoritative statements, making authoritative statements online. So I'm gonna hold off on that.
+
+[17:58] I apologize on the Koji thing, and we'll get back to the Lupiti beans. Now, on the lobster, I'm gonna be also unhelpful. I don't we you know, here up in in the in these uh northern areas, though we only get live um, you know, mm you know, Canadian Maine lobster, you know, Homaris, you know, the American style uh lobster. We don't get any of the spiny or rock lobster types live typically to cook with up here. Uh that's a long way of saying I don't have a lot of experience um cooking them.
+
+[18:29] Uh I will say uh this. Uh because you know, I've had I've cooked them not live, and I find most of the time and and I've also cooked uh you know regular, you know, American style lobsters not live. And I've never really liked cooking with uh frozen um lobster. Use does you ever had a good frozen lobster that you liked? No.
+
+[18:50] In fact, in fact, I did uh I remember once I did a uh uh uh um a class at the French culinary and I was doing lobster, low temp lobster, and they you know, I could only get the frozen for some reason because I had to teach it that day, and I've never had a worse low temperature product in my life than the than the the frozen lobster. So anything I've done with the with uh the the rock lobster slash spiny lobster is not I'm just gonna go ahead and say that it's not uh you know not necessarily applicable. Now I will also say this about regular lobster is that I tend to not like the low temperature, I tend to not like low temperature cooking on on lobster in general I used to try to do it at like 60 degrees Celsius you want to keep lobster cooking times and this is going to be true by the way even though you don't the uh lobster like the like the the northern lobster like the you know the clawed lobster and the non-clawed spiny lobster they're not actually that closely related did you know that no they're not really that closely related I mean they're both crustaceans but they're fairly separate like the spiny lobsters are the ones that you see on the internet that they they march in long lines and it whereas like like the American lobsters much like Nastasha and myself like to keep themselves don't like to really congregate with others of their type so yeah so they're they're they're not like hyper closely related but uh all crustaceans share certain cooking uh axioms that need to be um axioms that needs to be um need to be looked at so for instance the exception of shrimp which I think actually freezes pretty well although sweet shrimp fresh sweet shrimp is pretty damn good right you ever had those the live sh the live shrimp they're cooked right away they mostly they eat them raw that's why maybe but they're good uh but the um you know the the lobsters any of those things I I wouldn't like I say eat eat frozen but if you cook them for too long even especially at low temperature but if you cook them too long in general uh they get incredibly mushy and unpalatable. So when you're doing any sort of low temperature work with with these creatures you're gonna want to um you're gonna want to keep the cooking time under uh 15 uh minutes I'd say 15 20 minutes so when I do large, large lobsters, and I've cooked lobsters up to about 25 pounds, like you know, northern lobsters, what what I'll do is I'll do a a steam, I used to do uh a pressure steam kill, then would cut it for a couple of minutes, cut it open, and then cook all the parts separately, keeping cutting it and keeping each cooking time underneath that kind of like you know, 10-15-minute uh time window for creating mushiness. Now, what I do now, my typical technique now is uh because the studies I've shown, now there's people that are interested in crustaceans and whether or not crustaceans feel pain in the sense of pain as opposed to just no seception.
+
+[21:36] No cception is things that no no cception means that when uh there is something that we would consider a noxious stimulus, let's say heat or uh or you know, someone punching you in the face, you avoid it, right? That's no cception, the ability to avoid what is that what we would consider see as not noxious or dangerous or harmful stimuli, right? No cception. This is different from pain. So pain is a mental state um relating to your feelings, right?
+
+[22:08] So you can feel pain. So that so for instance, I can create a uh a robot with um you know sensors that can avoid heat, and that is kind of a nociceptive sensor system, but the lot the robot doesn't feel pain. So the question is do uh crustaceans feel pain, right? And um, or is there avoidance of noxious things just uh you know, no seception? And there's a lot of there's a lot of heavy-duty work being done by people on either side of this, uh saying that yes, they can, no, they can't, and a lot of it's based on whether the research is being done, is based on whether hermit crabs um you know, can make choices about what shells they go into, depending on what level of pain they have to endure, or what level of noxious stimuli, whatever, it's it's complicated.
+
+[22:53] But the fact of the matter is, whether whether they feel pain or not, when you boil it, this is a long way of getting to it, um, every crustacean that I've cooked live and tested, if you administer anesthesia to it before you kill it, it tastes better, right? And so then the thing is whether or not they feel pain, if you remove their ability to sense noxious stimuli before you kill them, they taste better. And so uh and and similarly, if you kill them quickly by knifing them through now, they don't have a centralized brain like we do, they have a series of ganglion that go around. But if you sever the uh you know, both the the ganglia in the top and the and the esophageal ganglion underneath, you sever those with a knife, um, they also taste better than if you don't. The problem is is that as you know, um crustaceans don't have, and I've tested with crabs uh on the anesthesia.
+
+[23:44] I've tested crabs, I've tested uh you know lobsters a bunch of times, um, several varieties of crab. The um uh the problem is is that the the blood system of the animal and the fl and a lot of some of the flavor is contained i in an open circulatory system. It's called the hemolhemolynth, hemolith, whatever it, whatever it is, hemolymph. I can never pronounce it. I never eh, I'm terrible.
+
+[24:05] You know how bad I am at pronouncing that kind of crap, especially if it's not right in front of me. Anyways, uh, and so you don't want to lose that flavor. So what I do typically it nowadays is I I cut through the ganglion over a closed uh thing, save those juices, then I uh take out the meat uh as much as I can without mangling it, and I take the shell that you can remove, remove the gills because they're nasty, remove anything that I think is gonna be nasty, cook down the shells uh uh with um uh oil, butter, and then I combine that with the juices, put them in Ziploc bags, and do a quick poach out in high temperature because I actually prefer high temperature uh cooking, like you know, simmer like 80 uh for crustaceans for under 10 minutes because I have the pieces cut small enough for it to do it, and I'm sure that will work on a rock or spiny uh spiny as well as it will work on a regular lobster. That was a long way answering that, huh? What was that gross thing that we had on the sushi at Jiro?
+
+[25:01] That was like a shrimp. Okay, so uh not to call out Jiro who dreams of sushi all the time, uh, but yeah, so he did squilla uh like mantis shrimp, you know, a mantis shrimp. And man, that was that was some mushy business, right? Yeah. I'm you know, I look, I have to be honest, like those things don't taste very good uh, you know, cooked like that.
+
+[25:25] The thing was a mush bag. That was like the worst. I mean, I I think a mantis shrimp is difficult anyway to cook. But you know what's interesting is that uh the rock lobster much more closely related to a mantis shrimp than it is to a lobster. My memory serves.
+
+[25:39] Because it's like it things uh go into I have to I have to go look at there's there's like where the crustacean kind of families break down, but I believe that slipper lobsters and mantis shrimp are more closely related to spinies than uh than our, you know, yeah, northern robbers are. Uh okay. Um what break? Yeah, 1230. All right, commercial break.
+
+[26:02] We'll be right back with cooking issues. Today's Hurst Ranch Grass fed beef. Pasture raised on a hundred and fifty thousand acres in central California. Hearst ranch grass fed beef, free range, sustainably produced. Humane.
+
+[27:34] Oh yeah. Oh yeah. You know, there's really nothing like hearing you scream through the glass when that commercial plays. One day I'm gonna send Brian Kenny, who is our awesome pal over at Hearst Ranch, a video of that. You guys don't even tape the uh when like the host reaction to the Hearst Ranch Grassfed.
+
+[27:55] I might have to start doing that. Yeah, I'll do it. Yeah, I mean that it's a good tune. It's a tune, yeah. I mean you you actually you actually saw it live.
+
+[28:04] You were one of the few people that got to see that song. Oh, yeah. Yeah performed live. Yeah. Well you gotta go live with the Hearst Ranch grass fed beef.
+
+[28:11] That's right. Yeah. I remember Joel Gargano, I think did a cover of that song for us once. Yeah. Uh screaming metal cover, yeah.
+
+[28:18] That was nice. Do we have do we have that? Uh I have to look for it. Maybe play it on the uh on the outro. We will play it on the out, yeah.
+
+[28:24] Yeah. Uh so Dave Kleiman wrote in last week. Uh I don't think I answered this about gummy bears, did I? No. Um he has a follow-up question.
+
+[28:32] Because remember I did the kitchen talk about like uh kitchen design. I talked about the foot pedals. So he has this new faucet that he wants to um um put foot pedals on. The brand of foot pedals I use, I use TNS brass, but Chicago Faucet also makes several brands. The problem with um faucets, if you want to adapt them, you have to choose a faucet where the mixing valve, the mixing valves are separate from the actual spout.
+
+[29:00] So if you can if you can get to where the spout is like so like I also have TNS as my faucets, and I chose uh from them a uh specifically a faucet where uh the mi the mixing valve got put into a T into the spout underneath the deck of my sink. And so what you do there is you just add um because it had a sprayer, right? So here's a here's a here's a way to look at it. So most sprayers that you have attached to, you know, non commercial, not TNS like a spray valve one, but sprayers um have a diverter valve in them such that when you open the sprayer, then all of a sudden the sprayer is connected to uh you know it it it stops the flow to the to the spout. The one that I have doesn't work that way.
+
+[29:45] It's got a manual off and on for the sprayer, so I could tee in underneath at the spout and supply water where they meant to push water out to the sprayer. So I put an extra tee underneath my deck and attached my um my foot petals, and the I use a hot and cold foot pedal that the mixing is done there, so there's only one output for my foot pedals, and plumbed it directly into the spout via the extra tea I added. So that's how that's how I did it. But every faucet is different. You need some way to get to the um to the spout of your faucet that doesn't um that you know, before you have to open or you know, in other words, it's independent of the actual mixing valve that you have on top of your deck with the faucet.
+
+[30:29] Does that make sense what I'm saying? Yes. Kind of okay. Um and he also wrote in last week. I want to make gummy bears with only centrifuged fruit fruit juices and gelatins.
+
+[30:39] Can I do it with no sugar? How? Yeah, sure. It's reduced the hell out of the uh fruit juices until the bricks is where you need it to be, so that you don't need to add any um any extra uh sugars. Um you have to so typically I was looking up some commercial uh gelatin stuff, I forget where I got it, got it from, but um, you're looking at for a commercial recipe, seven to eight kilograms of 250 bloom gelatin, which is I think roughly where Knox is in that area, uh dissolved in uh 14 to 16 liters of water with uh 37 kilograms of um sucrose and 45 kilograms of glucose uh plus acid, sugar, and flavor.
+
+[31:20] So you're looking like now it's very important there, especially if you choose fruit juices, that you don't have one that has too much invert in it, right? So there's juices that have a high sucrose percentage, and there's juices that have uh already broken down into invert, which would mean that it's uh fructose and uh glucose instead of sucrose. Now that you want some uh inversion, you want some, you know, glucose and fructose in there uh because it's gonna help with uh modifying the texture and uh preventing you know crystallization. But if you have too much of that and not enough sucrose in the mix, then you're gonna get a kind of weeping, it's gonna be sticky and tacky. So these guys for their recipe use 45 grams of glucose syrup, which isn't really glucose.
+
+[32:05] I don't know how much sugar that is, and 37 of so let's say that's I don't know how much percentage that's actually glucose and how much of it is something else. But you're looking at least in the realm, at least in the realm of of a liquid that is I'm gonna want to say like 66 or something like that. I have to look up what kind of bricks of liquid you would need to get it to work, but I think it's somewhere in that area, like 66 bricks, which means you're gonna need to do a lot of reduction. I'll do some more calculations. Maybe someone else is uh who listens is a commercial candy, you know, blah blah blah, and we'll figure it out.
+
+[32:40] Now it's pretty easy to do a reduction of a fruit juice down to those levels. Uh but um if you don't want to alter the flavor at those levels, you're gonna need to do it under a vacuum. And I've done it, I've taken strawberry under vacuum down to I think almost 70 uh bricks, and it was delicious, but you know, you need a roto vap for it, which is a pain in the butt, right? Yep. Yeah.
+
+[33:03] Yeah. Uh okay, and did anyone figure out whether I answered that freeze thought question? I think I think you did. C. Gelatin in the write-up.
+
+[33:11] Yeah, yeah. Yeah. Well, if uh if I did not, then uh call us out. Yeah, call call us out, you know. Call call us for the you know, call us out for the uh jerks that we are.
+
+[33:23] Uh right? We are jerks. Yeah, known fact. Hey Dave, what do you think of the uh someone wrote us in about canned soup sucking? Yeah, give me the uh let me know.
+
+[33:32] What was the exact uh what was the exact thing about it? What is what does this make sense? Why does it need so much salt? Why does it taste worse than soup served in other ways, containers or bags? What makes canned soup worse?
+
+[33:45] I don't know. I've never done uh a lot of uh side by sides. Do you find canned soups to be bad stuff? I don't really use canned soups. I like them if I need them, if I'm sick or whatever.
+
+[33:54] If you need them if you're sick, if you don't want to cook your own soup. Right, it takes a long time. Um I think look, I think frankly, the the reason why people add salt to soups is not preservative. There's no need to add salt to a canned soup, excuse me, canned soup to preserve it, because uh they can that sucker. Maybe also I don't think they need to go under I mean a lot of problems with soups in general, and I've never done a bag soup tasting, but um, you know, they have to cook the they have to cook the snot out of them.
+
+[34:23] You know what I mean? And so certain things are not gonna be I mean certain things are delicious pressure cooked, in which case they'd probably be even better under those high temperature regimes, but certain ones um aren't. But the salt is not there as a preservative in a canned soup. The salt's there because people like salt in their soup. Like Stas, can you imagine tomato soup without salt?
+
+[34:41] How gross would tomato soup be without salt? Really gross. Right? Are you imagining tomate tomato soup with a grilled cheese sandwich? And then and then you're like, oh my god, it's gonna be awesome, and then there's no salt.
+
+[34:53] That hurts, right? Yeah. It hurts. I guess part of the question here, Dave is uh wondering if like bags are gonna be the new way to serve soup, if like you know, Campbells might shift to bags instead of cans, if that would make any difference. Well, I don't know.
+
+[35:07] I mean, like, for instance, like it could be uh in other words the the the question here is do is the can imparting a flavor, and when people say that things taste tinned, what does that mean, right? So, like, what is that actually causing the flavor? You know how like everyone always says, once you open your can, you can't store you can't store the stuff in the can anymore. It's gonna taste canned. You ever heard of that?
+
+[35:28] No. You never heard that? Yeah, I've heard that. Yeah, you've heard that. Yeah.
+
+[35:31] Uh and like maybe it's true, maybe it's not. The can doesn't in remember, the cans that we buy are coated with crap on the inside of it. It's not typically supposed to be in most of these things touching the can. It's touching this weird film that I don't really remember what it's made out of on the inside of the can. Uh look, I can look into it if I can remember to look into it.
+
+[35:49] Someone sends me a text, I can look into whether anyone's done an actual hardcore study on taste of cans uh versus uh not. If it's if there is a a soup that doesn't respond well to being cooked at extremely high temperatures, right, because it's gonna degrade the vegetables or whatever other thing is a problem with it, it's gonna be thing, then you could put it in a bag and you could do um you could do pasteurization using uh high hydrostatic pressure. So if there is a soup that doesn't want to go through the processing that goes through canning to get if it's an actual processing problem versus the can itself, then there's the possibility of using a bag to do something like high hydrostatic pressure as a pasteurization technique that might have some sort of benefit. But again, I don't know because it's off the top of my head. Do you think soda tastes different in cans?
+
+[36:36] See, I do, but I don't know if that's mental or not. Most people who have cans of things for sodas and beers think that the stuff tastes better in a can. Yeah, same. That's that's how I feel usually. I think like a 20-ounce, you know, bottle of coke versus a can of coke, the can always tastes better to me.
+
+[36:53] I don't know why. Well, I know why, because bottles like plastic bottles suck for uh oxygen permeability, I mean or for carbon dioxide permeability. So they, you know, like the the a 20-ounce bottle, if you were to walk into a coke plant or Pepsi, I'm not saying Coke, you know what I mean? Although Coke. If you were to walk into uh one of the no no offense, I like Pepsi.
+
+[37:13] Actually, I only drink okay. When I drink for Pepsi. When I drink sodas, I drink diet sodas, and I think even the people from Pepsi would have to admit that diet Coke is a better diet soda than Diet Pepsi. Right? And you don't drink diet, so you don't know.
+
+[37:27] I don't know, whatever. I mean, maybe they probably would not. Oh my god, it probably just pissed someone off. Anyway, uh Stas prefers Pepsi. Mm-hmm.
+
+[37:35] There you have it. Uh and I don't drink sugarful sodas much, so I don't know. Anyway, uh if you were to taste one right off the line, right? Dr. Pepper, we both enjoy Dr.
+
+[37:44] Pepper. Yeah. Uh the if you were to if you were to uh get one right off the line, they would taste probably identical, Jack. But if you uh let it sit for any length of time, the bottle's gonna start losing carbonation much faster than the can. Cans also easier to chill down than a bottle, so often you'll get under-chilled uh under-chilled sodas in bottles.
+
+[38:05] And the same holds true for beers. Also, cans are a hundred percent light tight. And so, you know, if you were to have someone that were to choose uh a bottle that wasn't good at uh non-skunking, and then they were to use um real hops instead of those weird extracts that don't skunk, then um, you know, you'd have those issues as well. So can light tight, can gastight, can easy to chill, and plus when you're done with a can, you can crush it and hurl it. You know, if you if you grew up doing that sort of thing.
+
+[38:39] Maybe I did. Maybe I didn't. Uh right? What do you think? Yeah?
+
+[38:44] Yeah. Um. We have a question in. Hello, Dave, Jack, Nastasha, and company. Uh, I have some questions for you.
+
+[38:53] I think this is from Mark, but he's got an interesting name, uh spelling of the name, right? Mark with the C and the K. Is that yeah, anyway. Uh I have some questions for you. Uh I'm listening to your backlog.
+
+[39:04] Uh but I'm living in Italy and calling is a bit difficult. Can you guys call in on Skype or V I don't know what Viber is. Must be Italian. Italian Skype. So Jack, can people call in via Skype?
+
+[39:16] You know, we never take calls via Skype because they usually sound horrible, but in this case, maybe next week we'll try to get one of these computers to I'll have to look into that. Skype ended up. Oh yeah. Uh we gotta get the the Friday night. But the the uh the nah that song's going through my head, I'm not gonna be able to think.
+
+[39:33] Uh uh, but the um yeah, but I mean like we have we have a good number of international uh folk. Maybe we could set up a Skype thing for them, no? Yeah, we'll look into that. Is it it always sounds bad? Even if you just do voice-only Skype and not the not the Not the video, that might help.
+
+[39:50] We could always do the phone Skype too. Yeah, because I think I think it's the video Skype is the one that always hangs up, right? Yeah. And I don't mean hangs up like I mean hangs up like a bad anyway, so but it's a possibility. Okay.
+
+[40:05] So I wondered about the following. When you cut up an onion in a kitchen machine, which I think means for us like a Roboku or a or a cuisinar or something like this, but I'm gonna start calling it a kitchen machine. That could be anything. No, I like no, but that's the thing. That's what I love.
+
+[40:17] Like, I like any sort of thing that holds things, I'm like, uh, it's a bucket. You know what I mean? Like, uh, get the bucket, you know what I mean? But now I'm gonna call everything the kitchen machine. I freaking love that.
+
+[40:25] Like that, like if I got nothing else out of today's show, I got kitchen machine. So uh anyways, uh, whenever you cut up an onion in a kitchen machine, it starts to taste weird. I'd say oxidized, uh, is that what happens? If you make a sauce with those onions or a meat patties with it, you'll still taste it. I don't mind chopping by hand, but machines can be handy when stressed for time.
+
+[40:45] Uh staying with alliums, do you ha also have an idea that lots of garlic has an off-tast. I once read it was a fungal infection. Anything that you can do about it. I grew my own garlic and never had any problems. Uh maybe that's because uh it was gone in no time.
+
+[40:58] Um here's another question, but I'm gonna get these to these first. So the second question with the fungal infection, I haven't been able to find anything yet uh on on that, but I didn't get a chance to go look at my uh uh you know alliums book by uh Eric Block, which is kind of the book on that. So if there was an off taste due to uh fungal uh stuff, then there would be that. Garlic ages drastically and changes in flavor over time as it's held. And as you know, because you grow your own garlic, you've got to cure the garlic for it to be optimum, but then I think past that curing point, it can change over time, and God knows how long the garlic in a regular supermarket's been sitting there and just desiccating and turning to garbage, garbage.
+
+[41:40] Well, you don't like most of the garlic you get in the uh in the supermarketto, right? No, no, no. Yeah. So you know that that could be it too. But I'm gonna I'll do some researching on fungal infections in garlic.
+
+[41:50] That sounds gross, right? So gross. Yeah, because Saz does hates a fungus. Yeah. I'm not even looking what I just saw, the face she made.
+
+[41:56] Yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah, if you know a Nastasha at all and and you know, plant fungus, and you like, yeah. Like if you show her a leaf that has those weird things coming up out of it, the like a fungus gets on the leaf and you get those weird leaf things that pop up, those bumps. I have chills right now. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[42:11] What was the word? Spores, right? Spores. Spool. Yeah, yeah, she hates she hates a spore.
+
+[42:14] Spoo. Spo you know what she hates even more than spore? Sporulate. But uh the process of making spores. Sporulation.
+
+[42:28] Okay. Yeah. Uh but regards the onion. So onions and any allium, actually, now they all have different uh, you know, whether you're using uh an onion, a leek, a garlic, uh, or you know, elephant garlic, any one of these things, they all have sulfur compounds in them that start out being relatively uh, you know, uh odorless and tasteless, but then when they are crushed, react when the cells are crushed, react with enzymes to create the classic kind of pungent uh alum garlic onion flavors that we know, and most of us, you know, if you have a soul, love. Uh I think there's all these people, I don't like onions, and then they're like every literal I was like literally everything I've ever cooked for you in your whole freaking life has onions in it.
+
+[43:10] You know what I'm saying? Like can't you can't cook without onions. Can't I mean you can. Chainists don't believe in using onions because they inflame the passions. So they use they use as a feterna instead, which is fundamentally a substitute for the allium that apparently doesn't inflame the passions the way an onion you ever feel inflamed by an onion?
+
+[43:26] No. By a cooked onion? Yeah, me neither. But uh, you know, but that's because we're so saturated with uh with inflamed passions in our culture. You know, on every billboard there's inflamed passions, and so you know, onion is like, you know, peeing in the ocean to raise the tide compared to the inflamed passions we get here over here.
+
+[43:42] You know, imagine if like if that was your main problem in life is like the fact that the onions were getting you all hot and bothered. Yeah, that'd be kind of cool. I yeah, I guess. I don't know. Anywho, uh I don't know where I I don't know what I got into that.
+
+[43:55] But anyway, so like it pretty much, I mean my wife doesn't like and she gets so like thanks for she doesn't listen. She won't get mad at me. She doesn't like raw onions. Me neither. Really?
+
+[43:59] Yeah, they give me nightmares. Nightmares? You mean once you eat them, you have nightmares? Mm-hmm. Or thinking about eating them gives you nightmares.
+
+[44:11] Once eaten, I have nightmares. Once eaten, then nightmares. So they inflame your inflame your passions. Stas is a genus. She's gonna put a thing over her face so she hasn't eaten any bugs and sweep the ground before, man.
+
+[44:22] It's a whole new this is a conversion for Stas. It's amazing. Uh anyway, so both Nastasha and my wife, not huge fans of raw onions, but burgers and raw onions. No? I like the idea a lot.
+
+[44:34] I do, but I just it doesn't agree with me. What about when we slice them really thin and and uh flash pickle them with uh vinegar? Yeah, I like that. Alright, okay. So okay, that then I don't have to go crazy because I think it's just like the intense fli like to me the bracing nature of a raw onion on like a burger or on a bagel, like with locks and tomato, like it's that bracing thing that cuts through the fattiness of the rest of it.
+
+[45:00] Yeah. Like a raw onion cuts through a fatty flavor like nobody's business. You know what I mean? Uh anyway, so we're we're off topic. So when you when you when you crush uh them, they taste uh fundamentally different because more of the cells are ruptured and more of those reactions take place.
+
+[45:18] Now, uh if you look Harold McGee, friend of the show, and friend of ours, not just a show. I mean, like, you know, he's a legit friend, he's good man. Uh he did a Curious Cook back when he was writing that that thing for the uh not the book, but when he was writing the New York Times um uh column called Curious Cook, he did one on this subject, and in fact, it's a review as well of Eric Bloch's book, Allium. So if you can go online, you can read the whole thing online and it explains it. Remember when Harold McGee almost slipped on a banana peel?
+
+[45:46] Whoa, so we were at Harvard one day and we're walking down the thing, and you know, Harold McGee, if you never met Harold, he's like, you know, he's like pretty tall guy, right? He's like thin, he's like super dignified looking, right? But Harold's a dignified looking dude. You know what I'm saying? He usually has on like some form of like, you know, jacket.
+
+[46:04] You know what I mean? The patches on the elbow. Like, you know, he's like looks like he he looks like you would think Harold McGee would look, like a dignified, like nice guy. You know what I'm saying? And so we're walking in the in the Harvard Square, and swear to swear to God, he stepped on and did the did the leg in the air.
+
+[46:21] He the McGee is a runner, by the way, so he has good balance, and like, you know, he's like, you know, very fit because he's uh he runs like quite a bit. So but the leg actually went up, but he caught himself, he didn't go down. Look down, swear to god it was a banana peel. He like McGee almost went down on the ground, like McGill of Gorilla style on a freaking banana peel. And we were both and I were like, oh my god, did Harold McGee almost get taken out by like the oldest food joke cartoon trick in the book?
+
+[46:52] It's nuts, right? I don't know. Midi, what made you think of that? You said Harold McGee. I said Harold McGee, so you thought of banana peels?
+
+[47:00] No, I remember that. That is what reminds me of Harold McGee. The banana peel incident. Wow. Yeah.
+
+[47:06] That's not most people's association. Anywho, so you can go read that, and uh Stas hates anyhow, so that's why I'm gonna use it every every few years. Oh, only on business emails. Oh, in business emails. So uh also more reactions, secondary reactions take place.
+
+[47:19] So if you crush something before you cook it, the longer it sits, the more it's gonna build up those kinds of harsher uh flavors that you are responding to when you cut it in the kitchen machine. So uh you're causing a lot of reactions to take place quickly because it's mashing the heck out of them. Uh and secondly, they're probably sitting around because you're doing a lot of prep steps in larger cooking if you're going to use the kitchen machine. And so if you don't want those flavors, you're gonna want to slice with a very fine knife, do as little damage as possible. And a lot of the people, I think like Cooks Illustrated, and I don't know whether it was back in the days Kenji was working for them or not, but it sounds like a Kenji thing.
+
+[47:51] Kenji all Lopez. Uh, you know, if you do the test of slicing an onion across ways versus uh pole to pole, and whenever pull the pole, now I have that uh you can dance song going through my head. Oh geez. Uh but you know, you rupture less tissue that way, and so you get less of those aromas. So you could do do that test.
+
+[48:09] But yeah, it's really it's unavoidable. You could pre uh blanch them before you put them in, and you'll get less of that of those reactions happening. Uh so you could try that if you really still want to do that. Or uh if you coarse chop them before you um before you go hardcore and then dip those things briefly in boiling water or or simmering water and do a soak and then chop them up, you'll blunt some of the uh some of it because you'll leave leave some of it out. If you I mean, interestingly, on garlic, if you uh cook garlic, not a pressure cooker, pressure cooker wipes out the uh ability to create these flavors later.
+
+[48:45] Um I've run this test, or can if you cook it for a long period of time. But if you just boil garlic uh enough to um enough to prevent the enzymes from working to destroy the enzymes and then crush that garlic, it won't get that crushed garlic flavor. If, on the other hand, you then mix in a small amount of fresh garlic to that garlic puree, the enzymes in the fresh garlic are enough to convert the chemicals in the uh cooked garlic puree and the whole thing will go stank on you. Uh but it doesn't happen if you pressure cook it. Anyway, this is semi-interesting for me.
+
+[49:17] All right, so uh I mean it's interesting for me, but probably not for so many other folks. Anyway, uh last but not least, uh Mark wants to know in a restaurant I was served a uh a roulette of guinea fowl the other day, and it tasted reheated. Uh I recall uh if I recall correctly, you once talked about a special type of oxidation. Uh how does one present this taste? Vacuum and reheat, or I'll say it vacuum and reheating water bath.
+
+[49:41] Right? That's uh that's uh how that's my question question. Uh does it matter if you store the bird uh cooked but unvacked in the fridge first? I know the restaurant has one of those steamer combi ovens. I tend to find that those can give a rather stale, uh dirty oven taste of food.
+
+[49:54] Which brings me to the question can one clean those ovens well enough to prevent the taste from getting in on the food? Uh thanks be well, Grazzi Mark. Uh so uh because he's Italian, so he says Grazzi. Uh I was like, Dave, don't ever speak Italian. Uh you say Grazzi.
+
+[50:09] No. Come on. No, I'm bad at speaking. No, no, no, no, no. Oh, it's so weak.
+
+[50:13] Everyone's weird. I've lost it. I lost my Italian. The same way you lost your Spanish? Yeah, it's going that way.
+
+[50:18] The only the only half Mexican Los Angeles girl I've ever met who can't speak a lick of Spanish. No, I can. I just you're getting it back? As you lose your Italian to get your Spanish back? Mm-hmm.
+
+[50:30] Crazy. Well, you should talk to my kids. I tell you my kids speak Spanish. No, they're really good. No, man, they're they have they're they're really good.
+
+[50:36] They you know they won't speak Spanish to me. They will not they will never speak Spanish to me. I'm like, why don't you help me learn Spanish? You should listen to this radio station in New York, they speak kind of Spanish, kind of English, often on the whole station. It'll help you learn.
+
+[50:49] I thought about it in the cab the other day. Really? But do they I only really know kitchen words? Do they teach, do they speak in kitchen? Did they speak they speak the news in English Spanish in a really colloquial way.
+
+[50:59] Would I be able to get some of it? Yeah, yeah. I think you should. I'll have to buy radio then. Uh I only listen to internet radio and I only listen to the heritage radio.
+
+[51:09] You're not kidding. Uh I'm not kidding. Uh uh I'm not. Um wait, so what were we talking about before that? Oh, so the warmed over flavor.
+
+[51:17] So uh on the combi ovens, cleaning the combi ovens, if you reheat in a combi oven something that has been cooked already that has fat in it, like birds, you are very likely to get that warmed over taste, which is um an oxidation phenomenon. I believe I I haven't had time to uh to look into it again, but I believe that storing it in an oxygen free environment uh is a good idea even before you reheat it, but definitely when you're reheating it, you want to keep oxygen uh away from it. I would assume that put uh uh you know keeping oxygen away from it even when you're storing it is also gonna be an excellent idea. But I can't remember off the top of my head whether the warmed over flavor uh is directly from oxygen during the reheat or whether it's a conversion uh oxidation that takes place uh based on kind of precursors or ox oxygen that was already in it. In other words, if you were to store something open in a fridge and then vac it down and reheat it, would that prevent the warmed over flavor as effectively as vacing it immediately and then storing it in the fridge and then my I tend to think not because there's gonna be a lot of oxidation rancid development in the fridge anyway.
+
+[52:24] So anyway, so I I would tend to think that's what's uh that's what's going on. I haven't had guinea fowl in a long time. Do you like guinea fellowl? I haven't had it. They eat a lot in Italy, didn't you?
+
+[52:33] No. You can buy them at the at the local uh Pollo Vivo shops up uh, you know, up at in the Is it called pigeon in Italy? No, no, they're bigger. No. Derek, do you were you with us when we went to the uh live uh the live poultry place years ago?
+
+[52:47] No. And uh it's it's like the ones that are still being run, they're fundamentally run for halal reasons. But like the uh they always happen to be in predominantly Spanish neighborhoods in New York. And so we brought someone in there to sp that you like, we brought Fabulous with us, and he kept on trying to speak to the guy in Spanish. The guy's like, I don't speak Spanish.
+
+[53:03] Remember that? What did he speak? But Fabulous kept on trying to speak to him in Spanish. He speaks English. Oh.
+
+[53:09] Like uh anyway, whatever. Uh hello. I had a question for the radio show. Uh this is from uh Peter Dale. Uh online you can purchase Japanese uh tabletop grill, and it's my understanding that they're generally used indoors with a special type of expensive charcoal that burns clean.
+
+[53:25] That charcoal, by the way, is uh bingoton, and it is extremely expensive. Um understandably they all come with disclosure saying they're not to be used inside, and I'm trying to figure out how much of that is uh justifiable fear of being sued versus actual health and safety risk. Is there an overwhelming risk of carbon monoxide being generated by using it, say on a windowsill or in front of a windowsill with a box uh fan uh Peter Dale. Okay, so here's the dealy. Uh burning coal, burning anything inside, really, generates uh carbon monoxide.
+
+[53:57] I don't know specifically whether or not uh the binchotan is supposed to burn cleaner. Uh however, clean is a relative thing. You know, carbon monoxide is odorless, carbon monoxide is colorless, and carbon monoxide isn't smoky looking or smelling at all. That's why it's so deadly. Um my general feeling is I am not well most people I know are incredibly worried about carbon monoxide, but I mean, I I live in, you know, if for instance, like here's how you're gonna die from carbon monoxide.
+
+[54:30] If you fall asleep in your garage with the door shut in your car on, right? Because you're generating carbon monoxide, and there's no way for the air to get in. If you in fact, there has been there's a the famous case of someone using charcoal grills to um kill themselves was the lead singer of Boston. Yeah. Stash, you're right on that one.
+
+[54:51] Boston. Uh he used a bunch of, but I don't know whether it was that go there, Dave. Boston. Uh yeah. So I was like, you always gotta go to Boston.
+
+[54:59] But the uh the uh but I don't remember whether or not there was other things or whether it was the actual monoxide that did it, but he did something like No, he had two different like get a backup plan, too. Yeah, but he had like three different charcoal burners, I think, going in his bedroom and he locked. We had a well anyway, it was in a closed thing. And he he plugged up the the the what's what am I what's the whatever? Yeah, under the door, yeah.
+
+[55:22] He plugged that up and he closed all the windows. The reason he wanted to commit seven. This is not that kind of show. This is not that kind of show. I'm just saying Boston is one of David my favorite bands.
+
+[55:34] One of many. Oh, I like him. Yeah, but this kind of soured us on whatever, whatever. Uh this is not that kind of charcoal. I know, what's saying what?
+
+[55:42] I'm just saying. I brought it up because I'm trying to say that charcoal can be dangerous, but if you're in a sealed freaking room, like, you know, and you light three charcoal things, this is like a little charcoal uh thing of a jig. You know what I mean? And he's gonna put it near a windowsill, and I'm gonna say you're fine. You know what I'm saying?
+
+[56:00] That's that's what I'm gonna say. Go ahead and say you're fine with it. But uh, you know, whatever. It's yeah, whatever. Uh do you mostly like classic rock?
+
+[56:14] Yeah. Yeah? Well, it's not just classic rock, it's Boston, dude. Yeah. You know.
+
+[56:21] Sorry, generalizing here. And you know what? When you look at the old uh album covers from Boston, this is the thing I always thought, like Delp, who's the singer, right? Like, I always thought he was really short because of the album covers, but it's really just that everyone else in Boston is like super tall, or as they'd say wicked tall. You know what I mean?
+
+[56:39] Yeah. Oh yeah. I don't want to get sued here, really. That's true. That's true.
+
+[56:50] Man, especially with the subject that we were talking about. Yeah. I I hear that they're not necessarily they weren't like the friendliest of folk. You know, they're geniuses, whatever. I'll leave it at that.
+
+[56:58] Uh okay. So on the way out. Uh I recently discovered the show last year and I've become devoted listener from over here in tropical Glasgow, Scotland. Love Glasgow. You've never been to Scotland, guys.
+
+[57:09] The Glaswegians are an interesting group. They're Glaswegians. I didn't know that. They're they are. They're an interesting group of folk.
+
+[57:14] And by the way, uh it's just this Luke from from Glasgow. Uh I myself am also a fan of the buckfist wine. So next time you're coming to New York, bring some buckfist uh with you, and we'll go. We'll get that's the kind of glass that's Glasgow Crump juice, even though it's not made in Glasgow. It's like it's like the it's like the thunderbird of Glasgow.
+
+[57:35] And so like everyone says that like Glaswegians like pound uh like this buckfist, and then they go ape. I was at 69 Colbrook Row with my good friend uh Tony C. And uh I think it was David Broom, the Scotch uh expert who brought some buckfist and we rodo vapped it, and we made like a buckfist syrup, and then we had like an O de Buckfist V, which was whatever. Come on. Anyway, okay, okay, whatever.
+
+[57:59] So anyway, uh I cook a lot with miso, but I've read conflicting information online about the right temperature to cook it. Uh have I have read that you shouldn't let the miso get above 60 degrees Celsius, but this is rarely mentioned, so I'm wondering if there's any scientific basis for it. Um I don't I was not able to find any scientific basis for it. 60, I mean I've done a lot of work, not in Miso, uh, but you know, so like let's let's just backtrack here. Some people online with the with with the miso cooking, they're worried about destroying the probiotics, right?
+
+[58:31] And so they don't want you to heat it too high because you're destroying the probiotics. Me, I don't so much care about that. And I like on more on many, many, many occasions have heated miso well above that temperature, both in soup applications, because who the hell serves a soup at 60 C S. You're gonna bring by the time you bring by the time you bring it to the table, it's weak. You know what I'm saying?
+
+[58:52] Jack, do you want a soup that's below 60 degrees Celsius? Definitely not. Hell no. No. Hell no.
+
+[58:58] Uh so anyway, that's that's my feeling like stir miso in at the end. Now I like miso straight out of the box. In fact, this like this morning, I had some cheddar cheese. I I don't know, I I'm a dumbass. It's because it's so salty.
+
+[59:09] But I whip uh I put uh Akamiso just directly on cheddar cheese and eat it. Isn't that weird? Mm-hmm. It's weird, right? Anyway, I use miso a lot, but I have no qualms about boiling it.
+
+[59:19] Uh it changes the flavor, but I don't think it destroys it or it doesn't turn it into poison. So if you like the flavor of it when it goes above that temperature, and I haven't read anything or found anything that there's a direct like once you reach over 60 degrees, a certain uh certain uh flavor compound is destroyed, or another thing has been generated that is an off-flavor, but I'm gonna keep my eye out for it. But I will say this on 60 degrees, the one thing where 60 degrees is a relevant number is uh on kambu. So if you're looking at uh making kambu, which is the seaweed, not the miso part of it, but kambu dashi. Uh when you do the kambu, the temperature of steeping is important uh for the flavor, and we go back on the cooking issues.
+
+[59:58] I think you can still get it on the line. Uh we did a bunch of temperature tests, 60, 70, uh, and then up near the boil. And I forget whether we like 60 or 70 best, but it's in that range of 60 or 70, and that we verify by side-by-side taste test. Now we could do, I don't really not really set up for it right now, but someday if I can, I'll I'll I can try to do the side by side of taking miso, vac bagging it, and then putting it under three different temperature regimes in a vac bag and seeing whether or not they're altered or how they taste. That'd actually be an interesting test, or maybe someone out there in cooking issues uh listening land can um run that test for me and uh figure out what they say.
+
+[1:00:32] Well, most miso we get is crap anyway, but I'm assuming that you're getting high quality miso. Uh because your second question is do you have any tips for making udon noodles? I've just started making my own and they're coming out beige rather than uh translucent white. I've been making them with a white bread flour for the high gluten content and some tapioca starch for dusting. Any tips for making killer noodles would be much appreciated.
+
+[1:00:52] Thanks to the whole crew for a great show on Heritage and the amazing blog podcasts. Uh one quick note, final note. I was watching Diana Kennedy's presentation at the Mad conference, which is that uh Denmark thing, uh last year, and she talked about the problem of waste plastic from vacuum ceiling for sous vide cooking. Is it impossible or just inconvenient to create reusable vacuum bags? Uh well, let's go backwards, right?
+
+[1:01:14] Well, I'll go to the Udon first. So my preliminary not being a I've done a lot more work with Soba than I have with uh Udon. And so I don't have a lot of uh firsthand knowledge on udon, but uh I did uh some preliminary research on the technical literature of U for Udon and uh higher protein flowers in Udon correlate with um uh darker color. So I'm trying to figure out whether there uh is some work around, and of course Udon's not supposed to be as hard and snappy as some of the other things, but I'm gonna try to see, and I started reading a document called uh uh Japanese Noodle Makers Preferences for uh flower types, but I didn't get a chance to finish it before it goes on. So hopefully I can uh get some more information and go back on that.
+
+[1:01:56] But on the on the vac bags, it is not really feasible to do a washout on the on the vac bags. I mean, it is, I mean, I have done it, but it sucks, and you just always get cross-contamination and it gets wrinkly, you know what I'm saying? And then it's hard to seal right, and also every time you seal the bag, you lose like that sealing area, and then the next time you put it on, you have to put a couple uh inches over the seal bar and you keep going, keep going, keep going. And so the bags get used up over time. What I think is feasible and will happen someday is they will develop a biodegradable bag that can be in fact they have biodegradable bags, they're sealable now.
+
+[1:02:35] It's just they're not really used for cooking. I think it's like the whole system was built around this non-biodegradable thing. And I know I like I feel I feel her pain uh uh, but I don't really think about it with sous vide bags. I think the primary problem first is shopping bags, but like I I I hate plastic shopping bags now. I said ever since I went and took that trip to uh Senegal and I saw like all these beautiful landscapes totally marred by plastic uh trash bags.
+
+[1:03:00] I've been trying to kick the plastic trash bag habit um entirely. Uh with Sous vide, um I think there's the real possibility for biodegradable bags. It's just the technology needs to be upped a little better. Um there's some issues with some of the uh bags out there now. Like, for instance, like a lot of times if you ask for a completely biodegradable packaging on bags, um, they have problems with the resins that they can form them fine, but then they don't necessarily um adapt well to further forming later on down the road because of moisture absorption and other problems like that.
+
+[1:03:30] They might not also be good for industry because they're not going to be as shelf stable over a long period of time in a food application. But that wouldn't be a big deal for a cook. So I just don't know whether there's a big enough market for someone to have developed it yet, but maybe there is. The other thing you could do is you could do a completely uh like dishwasher, and people have these silicones. You've seen these people have now silicone bags that um you can reseal and you can use them as storage and wash them out a bunch of times.
+
+[1:03:56] The issue there is that the vacuum machines that are currently on the market, the chamber vaccines in particular, aren't designed to work with those. But they definitely could be. In a current chamber vacuum machine, what happens is uh you suck the air out of the chamber, then when the vacuum cycle is over, a rubber bar pushes up into a heat ceiling bar, and the heat sealing bar turns on the electricity and seals the bag. Then the air is let back in. But just as easily, you could have it instead of pushing up into a heat seal bar, you could have it push up into a ziploc.
+
+[1:04:28] Uh Johnson's family company. You could have it uh push up into a Ziploc closure and have that pressure bar uh close as close it like a zippy without using a heat seal, and then you could presumably use a like a silicone bag like that over and over again, but you'd have to have the equipment designed around it, and that just hasn't happened yet. So I think the future for the ability to do low temperature cooking in a sealed and bag like environment in a way that's more sustainable, is could be bright. I don't know whether anyone's working on the problem yet, but my two cents. Oh, uh, I already talked about Udon.
+
+[1:04:59] And uh that's a wrap. Cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio.
+
+[1:05:27] You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a non profit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Whether you're a homeowner creating your dream space or a pro managing multiple projects, discover a new way to shop at Ferguson Home, where great ideas become stunning spaces. Visit FergusonHome.com to explore the best selection of bath, kitchen, and lighting products. Or book an appointment at one of our showrooms where you can experience products first hand and get personalized expert support every step of the way. Bring your vision to Ferguson Home, where it all comes together. Shop top brands like La Cornew or find your local showroom at Ferguson Home dot com.
+
+[0:29] Today's program has been brought to you by Heritage Foods USA, the nation's largest distributor of heritage breed pigs and turkeys. For more information, visit Heritage Foods USA.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit HeritageRadio Network.org for thousands more. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[1:00] It's a Dave Vernon, your host of Kiki. Cooking what? Cooking issues? I got issues with my voice today. Maybe it's because my voice buds are frozen.
+
+[1:07] Do we have voice buds? Voice box. Frozen. It is snowing, I could beam in out, but I'm still coming to you live. A little late because the subway was shafting me.
+
+[1:15] I usually I'm late and it's my own fault, right, Stuas? Yep. Because I'm disorganized and a bad person all around. Today I'm actually gonna blame the weather. Although I noticed that uh Jack man here on time, as did Nastasha, so maybe and they're both coming from Manhattan.
+
+[1:29] That's right. Now I come from Manhattan. In fact, farther away. Were you guys on the L train today? Yes.
+
+[1:34] Uh no. Well, yes, Ftel. F Tell F Tel. A, yeah. Uh just uh whatever.
+
+[1:41] People don't care. Calling your questions live to 7184972128. That's 718497-2128. Um, so we haven't actually have an event tonight, right, Stas? Do you think I think that thing's gonna go on?
+
+[1:52] Yeah. Really? Yeah. I talked to her. And she's like, we're gonna do it?
+
+[1:55] Oh, yeah. She's excited about a hot drink. Everything. We don't have a hot drink. I told her we were gonna work on one.
+
+[1:59] So let's do that. Yeah, we're like so we're doing this event tonight at a place called Feel, NYC. Uh and you know, one of the partners uh food. Feel food. Yeah.
+
+[2:11] But what's funny is is that our friend who's you know, one of the partners there, Galen Quinn, who runs uh the Bogota Food and Wine Festival, or wine and food festival, I can never keep it straight. She uh she's from Columbia and she calls it Phil Food, like Phil, like our friend Phil Bravo. Right. And she can't, like literally cannot hear the difference between the words fill and feel. So we were bust we were busting her chops yesterday on the Phil Feel phenomenon, fill phenomenon, film phil nominal.
+
+[2:36] Anyway, uh, but so I can't believe we're gonna do an event with cocktails with people like arriving as it's like going bu dumping buckets of snow on us. But hey, that's life. That's how it's cut. We agree to do it, so we do what? We do it.
+
+[2:50] We do it. All right. So we got uh some questions in on knives. Um Deer Cooking Issues team, I have a simple I have a simple knife question. Although it's not so simple, as it turns out most things are not so simple, right?
+
+[3:03] Uh on a whim, I recently bought a 10-inch uh knife blank. The listing claimed it was a 100-year-old sabatier blank. You know, sabbatier is like the French uh like the French knives. Yes. You familiar with those?
+
+[3:15] Uh sabotier blank, you know, French the French knife pattern, the like the old sabatier pattern, is um different from the kind of standard German chef's knives that we all kind of grow up with. Like, you know, in the US, you know, if you you know, if you're my age, um, you know, when you were younger, no one really had the Japanese or the Japanese Western stuff. They weren't very popular, I don't think, until probably the 90s, you know, like uh, you know, some somewhere in the late 90s, somewhere around there, with the US people. So, you know, in the in the early 90s and the late 80s and early 90s, everyone wanted their their hankles and their Vustoffs, right? And if you were gonna get, you know, uh a Japanese chest knife to do Western style work, most likely you'd get um like a Mac.
+
+[4:02] You know what I mean? Well the Macs that you would get, like were semi in you know, in kind of the newer style Japanese Western pattern, but more you know, akin to um Japanese takes on Western knives. These are the ones I was kind of grew up being exposed to. But you know, most of us uh or most people I knew didn't really have a set of uh French pattern knives. And the French pattern, the the knife actual the the handle style and the and the shape of the knife a little bit different from the German style.
+
+[4:31] I actually quite like it. So I so I in fact my favorite knife that I have that's a Western knife is uh because I have my favorite Japanese knives, but my favorite uh Western knife is in fact a 10-inch sabetier uh knife, old, really freaking old, carbon steel, that I found at a uh a flea market for two bucks. And it was you know, it was rusty but not like too rusty on the blade section, so it didn't have didn't have any real wasting or loss of metal in the actual edge. There was some pitting in the in the belly of the blade itself, but nothing on the edge, and so I was able to take it and that thing, that thing's a demon, except for people keep picking it up, using it without my permission and then leaving it wet, which really makes me want to if people do not first of all, don't use other people's knives, right? Like don't like unless you ask, don't use somebody else's knife.
+
+[5:23] Yeah. Straight up. Like, remember w at the FCI, I had a set of Japanese knives, also carbon steel, so they rusted. And uh some and I had a new Suba, which is uh you know the vegetable carving knife. It's got a very like flat uh blade.
+
+[5:37] It's it's meant for like turning daikons and stuff into those sheets. And you know I bought it at a time when the yen was not quite as good as it is against the dollar now, so it wasn't ridiculously expensive. But still I think it set me back like a hundred and something bucks and and now it's like a hundred and fifty or a hundred and eighty five dollar knife or something like that. And uh some some jackwad picked it up, thought it was I guess I don't know what the hell they thought it was a cleaver and they hit it into bones and took giant scallop marks out of it and made it entirely useless and then left it wet. So I came back to my knife kit.
+
+[6:13] They were kind enough to put it away but they put it away and left it ruined, completely ruined. I've never been so angry about something that's happened in a kitchen to my equipment ever. I was like why would anyone ever pick up somebody else's knife? But so this is the problem about having nice stuff in a communal environment. And you know my home now because you know people come through it amounts in some ways to a communal environment.
+
+[6:33] So anyway it's hard to keep sometimes carbon knife uh in good shape which is w you know why you should I don't know be protective about it. Does it make any sense? It's not really the question but you ever had a carbon knife? No. The advantages of the carbon steel knives are they're uh ridiculously easy to sharpen.
+
+[6:49] They take you know they they don't uh the they're a pain in terms of you know uh taking care of them. Like whenever I use mine I wipe it down after use and I put a thin coat of oil on it, you know, at the end of the night. Uh I wipe it after each use, and then at the end of the night I put a thin coat of oil on and put away, and it's been fine for years, but uh it's just a little more use, but it takes an edge uh extremely uh well. I don't I don't think the edge lasts longer than I mean the new the new steels, the edge the new steels that they have are crazy, you know. Uh and so you know, I'm sure from an actual performance standpoint, but the fact that it takes an edge so easy so easily means that you you know you can a couple swipes on my on my uh on my stone, and the sucker is you know like a like a like a slicing machine.
+
+[7:31] That's my favorite thing to slice steaks with. Stakes. Anyway, uh okay. So uh I bought a 10-inch knife blank and the listing claimed it was a 100-year-old sabotier blank recently discovered in a warehouse, warehouse in how do you think you pronounce uh like I I should know because it's French, right? But uh Thiers, you mean it's Thiers?
+
+[7:50] Pronounced written in English Thiers. But I think it's probably T A. How is it how's it spelled? Thiers. Like F-E-A-R-S?
+
+[7:57] No, like T-H-I-E. Yeah. But I would guess it's like Thiers or something like that. Tier. I don't know.
+
+[8:03] But you never know with them, right? Yeah. Could they could be like douche, you're supposed to pronounce the R S on that one. You're like, uh course they don't understand douche. That's some my favorite thing about French people is that they don't understand the douche insult.
+
+[8:14] They're like shallow, shall we sack of us? You know, uh I'm not going into German. Anyway, I have problems. I've got the pronunciation here. What is it?
+
+[8:21] Thiers. Thiers. Thiers. There you go. That was pretty close.
+
+[8:24] Yeah. Uh and made from virgin steel, not used today. With this story, I couldn't pass it up, but I've been having trouble finding someone willing to transform the blank into a functioning knife. I was rebuffed. I like that.
+
+[8:36] Rebuff's a good word. I was rebuffed by one custom Brooklyn knife maker, and he could not point me to any other knife makers who would be willing to do the job. And he suggested that this require heat rather than just sharpening as well. Uh I really have a good eight-inch Chef's knife at home that I keep sharp with a DMT system. Those are the diamond uh anyway.
+
+[8:54] Uh I like them, DMT. But uh system. So this is uh not an especially urgent task. However, just holding the blank makes my current knife feel like safety scissors against X caliber. So who and where do I go to turn this blank into a real knife?
+
+[9:08] Preferably here in New York, but maybe this task is not as simple as I had originally thought. Uh and then uh this pat from Patrick. And um he did he put in the description from uh from the eBay. And by the way, for those of you interested in this problem, the uh the person who he bought it from, if you uh you if you look sabatier blank, there are some eBay auctions currently from the same guy, still up. You can still go buy one of these if this is something that uh interests you.
+
+[9:35] Um yeah, it's not as simple as you thought. If you if you go look if you guys look it up and you go on eBay and see what you what what we have here is you have a uh a blank just after the forging step, right? So it's uh it's a whole you know blank with the the metal entire, but it it it uh it looks like it's only gone through the first step. So what happens after you forge it is you have to do something called annealing. And uh the annealing is to make it soft to work and get rid of some of the stresses.
+
+[10:01] So you're gonna anneal it and annealing it, you're gonna take it up to a fairly high temperature, like uh somewhere like 1450 or so Fahrenheit, and you're gonna hold it there for a while and you're gonna cool it very, very, very slowly. And what that's gonna do is it's going to bring the metal into a very soft state that's easily worked. And I think it also gets rid of some of the stress. And that is so that you can do the kind of the uh grinding and to get it down to almost finished, except for the actual edge itself, you want to get it down. Because if you look at the picture that you have of the blank, it has like a lot of forging marks in it that you can still see in the in the in the picture.
+
+[10:39] After you do that, right, now you have to harden the guy. So you have to, you're gonna you're gonna anneal it, then you're gonna do uh kind of whatever uh work you're gonna do on it, then you might do something called uh normalization, which is another thing similar to annealing, but not quite as uh not quite as slow a cooling. The reason you cool it slowly is when you heat the steel up to a high temperature, uh you change the state of the metal. It goes from being you know a mix of whatever it happens to be in whatever state it is, partially probably hardened from working, partially not, in uh into kind of an ostentitic state, which is the non-magnetic state. And then if you cool it very slowly, it forms into uh you know a very soft structure, whereas if you cool it very quickly, you know, a portion of it, hopefully a large portion of it, turns to martensite, which is a lot harder, which is what you know, harden steel.
+
+[11:30] So uh so anywho, so you want to cool it uh not as slowly as annealing, but uh relatively slowly uh to kind of uh you know produce a finer grain structure and get rid of any um kind of imperfections in it that might cause problems with the with the um with the hardening which you're about to do. Now I don't know whether that step's fully necessary or not, but a lot of people seem to recommend it. Then you're going to uh heat it up again to that same high temperature and then quench it like a mother in oil very quickly so that uh the metal does not have the time to uh to go into its softer state, instead frozen in the harder martensitic state, right? Does that make sense? Then it's really shattering, like it's gonna be shatter brittle like glass, so then you need to take it and heat it up again to a tempering stage, which is a lower temperature.
+
+[12:14] That you know is much easier to accomplish because the other temperatures are like 1450, that kind of thing. You need a real like a kind of a forge or a kiln to do that, right? The other one is a little bit lower, is a tempering thing. That can be done kind of more reasonable uh uh steps. So you do that to kind of make it not as brittle.
+
+[12:30] And so you temper it maybe once, maybe twice, depending on who you listen to, uh, and there you have your blade. After you temper it, then you have to put uh uh scales on it, right? You know, um wooden parts, right? You don't have to use wood, you could use whatever you want. Like a lot of people use uh uh like phenolic compounds, bone or whatever you want, and rivet it down, sand down the uh sand down the uh handle so it's nice, and then put your final uh polish and your uh edge on it.
+
+[12:57] So, in other words, to to put it in, you know, to put it this way, it's a lot of freaking work. And to have someone do a one-off custom job on something like this is gonna cost a lot of money, like much more than just going and buying a high quality old sabbatier uh chest knife. At least I would charge a lot, you know, if I was gonna do something like that. And that's probably one of the reasons why the custom knife maker that you uh that you dealt with was like, why would I do that? I'm a custom knife maker, I want to make my own knives, I don't want to do that to this other knife.
+
+[13:29] Now they're probably being a little bit of a jerk about it because everyone's look everyone who does something like that for a living, like including myself, like when someone's like wants someone comes to me and wants me to make somebody else's cocktail, I'm like, why would I do that? That's ridiculous. You know what I mean? But so everyone who does this stuff for a living, like they're kind of jerks, but and they're kind of not understanding towards someone who's not directly on the inside of their business, but that's just the nature of someone who cares about what they do. I mean, the problem is it's gonna be hard to find someone who cares about what they do who is willing to do it for a reasonable price and who doesn't care about the whole process in general.
+
+[13:57] Does that make sense to us? So, anyway, so I think you've bitten off quite a bit, but I think it's a really interesting project. If you go on Kitchen knife forums, uh, there's a guy there named Devin Thomas, who's a very famous maker. I've never touched one of his knives, but they're, you know, a chef's knife from Devin Thomas is upwards of like $1,500 bucks. If you can get it because they're made one off, they're custom.
+
+[14:17] And he's a maker of crazy, crazy pattern Damascus style steels that he makes himself, both stainless and carbon Damascus steels. And uh he wrote in that he bought one like 20 years ago from the same guy and made a night uh knife with it. And this is what he says to do, should you find someone who's willing to do it. Um he says uh anneal at 1450 for uh one hour, drop the temperature to 1275 for four hours, and then cool in the furnace. Uh to harden it, soak uh at roughly uh 1500 degrees Fahrenheit for uh 10 minutes and then quench in oil and then temper immediately for one hour uh between 350 and 400 degrees uh Fahrenheit, uh one or two times.
+
+[15:01] Uh one time for more toughness, sorry, one one uh two times for more toughness and one hour for more wear resistance, i.e., longer keeping edge. Uh but that is not something that the average person, I think, could do. Uh although I have to say, I love the oldest sabotier knives. I love them. Anyway, does that make sense?
+
+[15:20] Devin Thomas. You should go take a look at his knives, by the way. I mean, I I looked, he you can't even, you can't buy them, it's crazy. Like I just don't I think maybe Matt from uh from uh Chef Matt from uh uh Sambar might have one because he's kind of a knife nut. Anyway, all right.
+
+[15:34] Uh should we take a uh quick break? Sure. All right, let's take a quick break, come back with more cooking issues. Today's program has been brought to you by Heritage Foods USA, the nation's largest distributor of heritage breed pigs and turkeys. For more information, visit Heritage Foods USA.com.
+
+[16:33] And we're back. Yeah. I didn't know we were the largest um distributor of heritage uh pigs and turkeys. Heritage breed, yeah. But are we we are not the distributor of the largest breeds of pigs and turkeys as far as I know.
+
+[16:54] No. The opposite. Yeah, the turkey the turkeys are delicious. Anyone who's had one knows this, but they're not like the the jacked up like you know, super like gym going birds that they're athletic birds. They fly.
+
+[17:10] Yeah. Yeah. I mean, like, you know, uh, I forget how much they weigh. That what styles? How much did they weigh at Thanksgiving time?
+
+[17:15] You remember? No, I don't remember. They were like they were like on the more like on the 15-pound side, right? Yeah, that's more common. Yeah, not on like the 25 pound like mo mon like monster turkey.
+
+[17:28] Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. We we should figure out like how to get the like I'm sure they could grow some sort of like a giant mega heritage breed turkey if they wanted to. Wow.
+
+[17:37] Only only you could find out. Yeah, we can do it. We know of course the heritage breed pigs will grow bigger, you know, if you let them live longer. You know the advantage of letting the pigs live longer? Well, it depends on what you want, right?
+
+[17:47] I mean, like, we slaughter our animals so young, uh, typically here in the US, which is one of the reasons. If you go back and you read uh dry cured meat products by Fidel Toldra, which by the way, I don't recommend. It's not a very scintillating read. I mean, it's good from an informational standpoint. I'm sure it's horribly out of date.
+
+[18:02] And Fidel Toldra's written other books since this one, which was written, I think, in the in the late 90s. I own it, it's like technical book. Boring. I mean, it's not boring. It's it's boring.
+
+[18:12] I mean, like Stas, you would find it intensely boring. But it has information in it that I'm glad I have in my head now. One of those pieces of information is that the uh muscular enzyme uh makeup of an animal is dependent on its age. And that for dry cured, long age dry cured meat products, the uh enzyme balance or the enzyme makeup, rather, in uh older hogs is more conducive to uh creating a higher quality long age product. In addition, the meat from uh older hogs or older animals in general tastes incredibly different.
+
+[18:47] Now, uh Jeffrey Steingart, who by the way, like wants to get in touch with us, but then I he w didn't call us back. I haven't talked to Jeffrey in a long time. But Jeffrey, so here's two different styles, right, of thought. So you got your Harold McGee and your Jeffrey Steingarden, both of whom went to Spain to uh taste very old meats. Like, so there's a bunch of restaurants in Spain that specialize in uh, you know, you know, cooking older animals, like seven year old cows, things like this, uh, you know, older things that we don't get here in the US, I think, and I think even older, you know, mutton, very aged mutton, things like this.
+
+[19:18] So, McGee, this is like Stas knows, McGee is like just explaining like kind of how awesome it is, and like maybe I can, you know, how can I get it? Blah, blah, blah. And Steingard's just rubbing in my face that he got to have this awesome stuff that I can't have. You know what I'm saying? Steingard loves that loves.
+
+[19:29] It's like Steingarden, you know, was invited to uh one of the Ordelon dinners that they had uh maybe maybe they did, maybe they didn't have it at uh I think at La Circa and also maybe once at Danielle back in like the 90s and rubs in my face all the time that he's had the order on I'm like how was he? He's like delicious because he doesn't care that I can't have it. You know what I mean? Or I shouldn't say he doesn't care. He revels in the fact that I want it and I can't have it I think.
+
+[19:57] Which is not to say he's mean he just likes a good he likes a good nose rub. Yes. You know what I mean? Yeah. Anyway, I owe him a call.
+
+[20:03] Anywho okay uh what was what was I talking about? Oh Fidel Toldra. So the age of the animal also not only from the enzyme standpoint but the actual flavor of the muscle is going to be different. I don't have any personal experience uh on that uh but all the data shows uh that or at least the data from the late 90s shows that um older pigs equal better pigs from a ham standpoint I'm talking about curing hams long long term age products I don't know whatever that's neither here nor there okay uh hi Dave this is from Sam hi Dave can you talk a little bit about your philosophy of dishes and flatware I don't think you've ever talked in depth about the subject on the air uh Sam well that's interesting you know uh most chefs who um cook food for a living they care extremely uh deeply about their both the the plates I think mostly about the plates right uh oh not not just plates, plates, all service wear. And then probably uh after that about the um about the the flatware.
+
+[21:07] And I think that there's kind of you know at home it's a lot it's a lot different. If you're gonna go uh professional, right, especially in like a super high end restaurant, a low end restaurant, you just need something that's gonna show off the show off the food well, right? So you go with something simple. But a lot of high end restaurants, like you know, what like Mark has how many different kinds of uh things at Del Posto? Yeah, but but you know the thing is like the cost investment, because you it at a high-end restaurant, the the the service the the plates that you have need to be of a quality that you're like you're not like man, this is thick and crappy.
+
+[21:42] I could have this in my own house and it's not a big you know what I mean? Like it needs to have a certain level of kind of quality and and panache, but it needs to be tough enough to not get totally banged up, or else the costs are gonna go through the roof because each one of these plates cost you remember he was saying how much some of those plates cost. Like those ones we shattered at our event. We shattered at the MoFat event a couple years ago, we shattered probably how many? Like 15.
+
+[22:06] 15 or 20, and they're probably like 75 plates or something like that. Yeah, anyway. Um, so you know, if you're gonna have something for a long time, you have it, but then you you know, bringing a new plate in, you have to think about how many different dishes am I gonna get out of this plate, right? So, like I've been to restaurants and I won't name any names, but they're like, I really like this weird plate, right? And then because they invested in this weird plate, I get this plate three or four times during the meal on a large course-down meal on a tasting plate, uh, you know, a tasting menu, and you're like, enough with the crazy plate.
+
+[22:36] You know what I mean? Enough, you know what I'm saying, Saz? Have you ever had that happen? Where like someone like they buy that, like, I don't know, it's shaped like a wave or like some sort of a crazy oval, and then they bust it out like three and four times because they kind of need to. Yeah, no, I haven't had that.
+
+[22:49] Yeah. I mean, the flip side of this is if you have a tasting, uh, you look, so you can either go on a tasting, some people do the almost entirely one plate, right? And then the plate's blank canvas, and then you have to choose a plate that you like that fits your style, typically white, thin, beautiful, right? And then you're gonna need another one that is um slightly dished, like maybe you get a charger that's slightly dished that way. If you serve something that's not a full-on soup but is brothy, and you don't want with a wide lip that something can go into it, right?
+
+[23:18] Then you need some form of soup. Usually, you know, I I would go for a wide soup because you go wide soup, you can do a lot more than you can do thin. It's more elegant to have like a wide soup than a thin soup, right? Wouldn't you say, Stas? And then if you want to salt and pepper it, that's when you pull out the like the cheap dish.
+
+[23:35] That's where you go to Chinatown, you go and you buy like you know, the less expensive stuff in the pretty colors, like the ceramics that don't cost an arm and a leg, and you can kind of buy on a lark and switch out for uh a plating thing here or there, or switch up if you have something weird into sake cups and other things that are uh you know that are less uh you know, less expensive. So I mean, if you had to, and even at home, I would say, and this is what I've done is you invest in you invest in a good, uh very kind of neutral but you know, beautiful, like basic set that allows you to do chargers that allows you to do normal plated stuff, smaller stuff like bread and butters, you know, B and B plates, and uh, you know, maybe like uh, you know, a more wide flat soup and then uh a regular soup bowl, and then just buy a bunch of weird, weird stuff that you do for one-offs, like for events and parties and stuff. What do you think? You agree with that? On the on the I mean, like, you know, the the exact opposite extreme of this is Grand AK It's at a Linia.
+
+[24:32] If you've ever eaten at a linea, you ever eat there? No. I've eaten there a couple times, and it's like all customized hyper stuff, uh, you know, hyper customized different things, but you know, I think that's very difficult for the average person to A pay for and B to support in their in their kind of restaurant. I mean, like he has dishes, he has dishes that are built for dishes, if that makes sense. You know what I mean?
+
+[24:51] Does that make sense what I'm saying? Dishes built for dishes for specific dishes. Pieces of ceramic things to eat dishes off. Anyway, you know what I'm saying. Um flatware, you know, I love uh I love flatware.
+
+[25:06] Uh but I don't I you know I don't think about having like lots of tons of different kinds of flatware. I'm not a giant fan. I am when I go to the old school like French places. Do you like going to old school French restaurants? I love it.
+
+[25:17] You know, if there was a time when I, you know, I don't know, I went to a bunch of them in a row, and I was like, but then and I, you know, I kind of lost the kind of love for it. But then, you know, I remember once uh years and years ago, I hadn't been to an old school French restaurant in a long time, and I went to Danielle, uh, and I had the like the whole full-on old school Danielle French, like nothing new, like nothing that had been kind of invented as a technique, you know, after Escophier. Like they just busted out all except for it was Dominique Encel was the pastry chef at the time, so there was some newer stuff there, but I mean like really old school French stuff. And I was like, this is awesome. You know what I mean?
+
+[25:52] This is like super awesome. And then they bring out the fish fork. You like the fish fork with the little notch in it? So for that kind of stuff, I like that. And normally I'm like, you know, I just want some normal, like good quality flatware.
+
+[26:06] I don't like a lot of weird handles. I hate the weird handle. I hate anything that feels weird in my hand. I like I want the I want the fork and the knife to be like a sensual extension of my body, and I don't want any sort of weirdness there. What about you, Stuzz?
+
+[26:20] I like you, fancy flatware. No, but do you like weird handle? Oh, yeah. Really? I hate a weird handle.
+
+[26:27] I hate a thin handle. If you're doing a thing. Well, if you're doing a thing. I mean, what like what kind of a thing? Like French thing or yeah, yeah, yeah.
+
+[26:34] But still, like, you know, a high quality hand. Like, you don't want you ever been have one of those things where someone makes like a handle and it's like a like a wire almost, and it's like this weird created handle, and you're like when you're holding it, it doesn't feel substantial. No. So my wife designed flatware for a while, and uh this uh one of these like salt, you know how there's like every every business has these salty old guys? He was like, they we got the prototypes back, and Jen was looking at him, the guy was like, Hey, yeah, uh, those are nice, but they're never gonna sell.
+
+[27:01] And Jim was like, Why not? He's like, they're just not heavy enough. It doesn't even he's like literally, he's like, it doesn't matter what it looks like. Put the sucker on a scale, and if the knife and fork don't weigh X amount, they will not sell. Like, so you know, she just beefed it up a little bit so that the weight was right.
+
+[27:16] But if you hold something thin or light in your hands, you're like, this is not a satisfying uh implement. So, you know, I think, and ever since then, I was like, you know, damn, this crusty old dude's right. And you know, I feel for heft in my hand. So I th I like a good heft in my flatware. Now, drinkware, it like, you know, also at the bar, if you've ever been to Booker and Dax, we don't really stock uh lots of like loony, loony toonie uh glassware, you know.
+
+[27:48] Um I'm a kind of a believer in getting a relatively small number of glasses and and you know just going that way. But you know, but it bar is a little bit different. So you could invest in a boatload of different weird things, but in general, all of the drinks are designed around certain volumes anyway. And so, unless you bring in a whole new category of drinks, like when we brought in the red hot poker drinks, well, we're like, okay, now we need a coffee cup. We don't stock like five different coffee cups for each different kind of um drink.
+
+[28:18] You know what I mean? Or each different um red-hot poker drink. Or, you know, most shaken drinks fit in either a coupe glass or the two-thirds coupe glass. And so that's all we have. You know, and uh it hasn't really served uh a purpose for us to have a zillion.
+
+[28:33] In fact, we don't even have highball glasses because we don't do that kind of drink. I kept I keep on telling the bartenders though, I'll buy the highball glasses if they can make a drink that's uh that forces me to buy them. You like high balls? Mm-hmm. Yeah, me too.
+
+[28:44] What do you think of like the cocktail and a mason jar thing? What do I think of the cocktail and a mason jar thing? Uh look, I'm gonna piss some people off. Mason jars are not particularly pleasant to drink out of because the lip of them is really, really thick. Uh and the only really reason to have a thick rimmed glass is like a coffee mug or something like that that you kind of want your lips to be around and you want the mass of the of the of the glass to provide some sort of either cooling and or warming property to it.
+
+[29:14] Uh in general, I favor glasses with thin rims. So, you know, coupes have thin rims, um, you know, old-fashioned glasses have thin rims. And in fact, the thinner the rim, the more I enjoy drinking out of it, as long as the glass itself has enough weight. So I like, you know, like on an old-fashioned, I think it's nice to have uh, you know, not a preposterously thick bottom, but a fairly thick bottom and a fairly thin uh lip. So mason jars have screw lids on the top, and so are always uh beefy.
+
+[29:46] Um they also I think tend to kind of obscure kind of the cocktail on the inside. Now, for a theme event, I think they're fine. Or like, you know, for like uh if you're gonna have a lot of ice in it in a in a drink, I think it's kind of okay as long as you pre-chill it but I never I never reach for them that makes sense what do you think Stuz I I agree what do you think Jack you disagree with me I can't stand them actually wow I mean like if it's a cold lemonade with a lot of ice and a straw maybe I guess but I agree with you it's not a pleasant thing to drink out of yeah you're putting this in a you're putting us in a tough spot don't they use those here at Roberta's uh I wasn't gonna make mention of that yeah see I thought you were just trying to get me in trouble over here I wasn't gonna mention that yeah but I mean you know think of like a pint glass versus a mason jar for a beer I'd rather have a p I'd rather a pint any every time yeah I actually I like pint glasses there that's like the thickest rim that I like drinking something out of is a pint glass and I like them because they're sturdy and when you put a pint glass down you're not like I'm afraid I'm gonna break this sucker you know what I'm saying? Yeah but you're also not like why am I why am I you know drinking out of uh out of an iPad you know what I mean like you know mason jar is like so thick it's like the thickness of a freaking iPad. I wasn't meant to be a dig in any one place.
+
+[31:02] I mean you know a lot of places do that. I know uh you know and then like the worst of all I'm really gonna get in trouble. Look here's the thing like any one of you out here out there if you'd use it I'm sure you can do something to pull it off right I mean like anything can be pulled off like stuff that normally I would hate how many times have you heard me say man I thought I was gonna hate that crap but it was good a lot. A lot right because I'm opinionated guy and I go but like have you seen these people who like put mason jars on stems oh man, yeah, I've seen that. Why the hell would you do that?
+
+[31:32] I don't know. Why would you do that? Here's another thing. Like, let's say you had a drink that you uh were somehow, I don't know, gonna gonna package and sell to somebody. Then maybe it'd be fun to have a jelly jar or like a or a mason jar because you could actually like it would look like a canned thing that you could buy, and you could buy it in a store.
+
+[31:50] That might be fun. You know what I mean? I don't know, whatever. You're getting me in trouble, Jack. Jesus.
+
+[31:55] No. Jesus. All right. Uh dear Dave et al. I was intrigued by your recipe for pressure cooked eggs, which I found on the Cooking Issues blog, but I've had some trouble actually making it.
+
+[32:05] When I squeeze the egg whites out in uh into the ramekin, some of the yolks float up to the top. Instead of uh neatly divided muffin as you seem uh to do to get, I get a spongy mass with pockets of egg white in it. Any ideas uh what I might be doing wrong? Also, should I be putting uh in some water at the bottom of the pressure cooker or not? Thanks and keep it the good work, uh good work, Alex.
+
+[32:26] Okay, Alex. When I press there's a couple different pressure cooking tricks I do uh with eggs. The the ones where they turn uh brown, where it's like a Hamin egg, the uh which you should all, by the way, anyone who's listening to this, they've they own on food of cooking, right? Pretty much? Anyone, right?
+
+[32:44] If not, if you don't, I'm not calling you out. You shouldn't like feel embarrassed. You should just go on uh uh to your local bookstore, or if you don't go to your local bookstore, go to Amazon and purchase Harold McGee's book on food and cooking, right? Yes. Yeah.
+
+[32:57] Uh and uh in that book, uh he describes uh something called a hammeen egg. And a Hamin egg uh is an egg, so like uh, you know, I've described this on the show a couple times, but I'll do it again. Uh let's say uh you're you're you can't let's say that you uh observe kosher laws, you're not allowed to uh cook uh on the Sabbath, so you have a large oven in the in a in a village environment, let's say, and the oven has retained heat, so you put all of your stuff in there the night before, uh including eggs into a stew, and it cooks for uh you know for a long, long period of time uh at a relatively you know decent temperature and as it cools off it goes out. Now those eggs, so-called Hamene eggs, they turn brown not simply from absorbing flavors, but because uh egg whites are alkaline, and the more alkaline you make something, the lower temperature uh you need for myard reactions to take place. So even at the you know, at boiling water temperatures, you can get myard reactions in an egg white if you cook it for a long time.
+
+[34:00] What's a long time? Twelve, uh, you know, eighteen, twenty-four, forty-eight hours. So I've cooked eggs at uh you know at simmer and boiling temperatures for that length of time, and indeed they do turn brown. Uh, and not only do they turn brown, they get uh interesting kind of brown flavors, biscuit y notes and stuff like that. So uh, you know, back when uh Nils and I were at the French culinary, you know, one of the things we said, well, why don't we accelerate this with a pressure cooker?
+
+[34:24] And and you cook the eggs and you put them in a pressure cooker, and they come out within an hour, they're like a nut brown, and the egg yolks smell like kind of chicken livers and the and the whites are brown. You gotta be care uh but but here's the trick, and I think here's the here's the thing. When I do that kind of an egg, I do not uh crack them before I cook them. I cook them in the shell. And not only do I cook them in the shell, but I cook them uh at a simmer for a good uh six, seven minutes before I put the pressure lid on and take the pressure up to um to full pressure.
+
+[34:59] And the reason is is that uh I want that if if I do it the other way, uh I get too many ruptured uh eggs, right? So you want them to set before you uh before you take the pressure way up. Now the other thing is is that if uh uh one of these eggs, the shell does break, it leaches the brown color and the flavor out of the egg into the water because those Maillard products are water soluble. And so you you want to make sure you keep the shell on when you do that. You cook it for about 45, I mean sorry, yeah, 45 minutes to an hour uh at second ring, which is 15 psi, and then you let it cool slowly.
+
+[35:33] Don't uncap it all of a sudden because then you the eggs will blow up on the inside, right? So you let it cool down, you open it, and then uh you have your your hamine eggs and they're great. Now, the other kinds of eggs that uh I do when I'm doing in the pressure cooker, I separate them before uh I do them, right? So I do um I can do egg yolks in the in the in the pressure cooker, and I can do egg whites in the pressure cooker, but I never cook them at the same time together. I separate them.
+
+[36:02] Now the yolks, I was trying I can never get the yolks uh by themselves in the pressure cooker to taste the way that they do in uh a Hamine pressure cooked egg. They never get that chicken giblet flavor. But the trick that I do have with it when I made those muffin things is that by adding a small amount of baking powder, which is again a mistake. I wanted to add soda to it because I wanted to make it more alkaline so that it would have some of those same flavors that it gets when it cooks in the egg itself. But uh the person I told to go run the test for me put in a powder instead.
+
+[36:34] And the actual yolk turns into that muffin thing, which is one of the things I did on the blog. And then I later found out, and that's in modernist cuisine as well. I later found out that uh you don't even need the pressure cooker. You can just mix egg yolks, sugar for flavor, and baking powder, and then steam it in a regular oven, and it turns into a bun. And the amount of baking powder you add changes the texture from something that's very kind of dense and cakey to something that's very kind of hamburger bunny.
+
+[36:59] And um they're they're good. Like they you need to get it just right. Like I like it when there's a little bit of soy and a little bit of sugar in it. Uh but some people really like them and some people really don't like them, those things. Uh and then the whites will brown, you know, you make the brown, but you I've never, as far as I know, I gotta go back and look at the cooking issues blog, but I don't think I ever cook them together, and there's no way I could ever get a yolk to float in the middle of it.
+
+[37:22] That just wouldn't work, right? Right. Right. Okay. Does that answer that question?
+
+[37:27] Pressure cooked eggs. We haven't done that in a while, have we? Not that I remember. No. It's just I was like, but on the other hand, I wouldn't remember because I don't care.
+
+[37:37] You know. You know as well as I do. No, but I know it's the thing like I mean, I think I've done it at home a couple times, but we've never done it for never done it, I haven't done it in event in a long time. People haven't asked us to do a lot of cooking events, but people have mainly asked for cocktail events now. Didn't we do a cooking event recently?
+
+[37:50] Or we did a cooking demo recently. With the Sears all, now that the Cerzo is coming out, hopefully people are gonna ask for more cooking demos again. Yeah. What do you like better? The cooking demos or the cocktail demos?
+
+[38:00] Cocktail demos. Why? Because they're easier? Mm-hmm. Wow.
+
+[38:03] Alright, well, that's honest anyway. I miss doing the cooking demos. You know what I mean? Gotta keep your chopping. Well, because in cooking demos, I'm usually doing like 18 different recipes and pissing everybody off, adding things at the end where with cocktails there's only a certain amount of work you can add.
+
+[38:18] Right? Uh Wow. And that was uh I can't believe we just got through we got through all the questions. Well, actually, we got a we got a question in on uh Twitter, fan of Albert, not Fat Albert, which is one of my kids' favorite shows. Do you like Fat Albert?
+
+[38:32] Mm-hmm. Really? I can't imagine you watching Fat Albert. Well, not anymore. But when you were a kid you did?
+
+[38:36] Yeah. Who's your favorite character? I don't remember. You don't remember the characters? Do you like mushmouth?
+
+[38:42] Yeah. Yeah? Mubbish Mouth. Yeah, he was good, right? Mm-hmm.
+
+[38:46] Yeah. Anyway, the movie, uh, I like some of the actors in it. The movie terrible. You see it? Oh, I'm sure.
+
+[38:51] No. Terrible. Terrible. Anyway. So fan of Albert, not Fat Albert, uh, wanted to know why there's not a problem when you freeze French fries before you cook them.
+
+[39:01] Because he's saying, doesn't when you freeze them, wouldn't you get a lot of retrogradation in the French fry, and and that would ruin it, right? Uh and then saying, well, maybe increased water loss for increased crunchiness is why it's why it's good. Well, let me just let me put some stuff out on the table here from the straight thing. So, first of all, starch retrogradation is what happens. So when you cook a starch out, right, uh, it loses its crystalline form and turns into uh what do you know what they call an amorphous form, right?
+
+[39:30] And then, and that's a cooked starch product. Bread, pasta, whatever, right? Right? And that's how it goes from being a crystallized thing to a not crystallizing, loses its crystal structure. Retrogradation is what happens when over time the uh starch recrystallizes, and that's one of the pri and also at the same time gives up water.
+
+[39:50] So recrystallizes and gives up water. And though that is the primary mechanism for bread going stale, right? And for all kind of starch things staling staling, things going stale that way, like potatoes going stale, starch retrogradation. You hate that, right? Mm-hmm.
+
+[40:05] Yeah. So uh starch retrogradation is actually halted by not halted, but drastically slowed by freezing. However, so it you're not retrograding when you're at at a tremendous rate, when you're in the freezer. Here's the trick. As you so starch retrogradation is fastest, right, at refrigerator temperature.
+
+[40:30] That's why if anyone ever puts uh bread in the fridge, you uh you should I mean I wouldn't smack them hard. Don't hurt them, but make them understand that you know that bread in the fridge is a horrible idea. Do you ever put bread in the fridge, Daz? No. Are you saying that because you don't want me to get angry?
+
+[40:48] No. I have friends that do it though. What why do you do to them? Nothing. Nothing?
+
+[40:53] They do a lot of things bad, but I don't know. Like what? Give me some more. They don't take the bones out of fish. They shop for food at Walmart.
+
+[40:58] All kinds of stuff. Wow. You need some new friends. I mean, I like most of your friends, but like why don't you yell at them? Because I don't like being that person that brings their job into their friendship.
+
+[41:09] That's not job, that's like life. Like people tell me about like classical music or fashion or all the things that they do. We just leave it out. We leave our life. I don't know.
+
+[41:17] I don't know. Like we at least have some people comment on this. Like, if someone does something that is like a straight up destructor of quality that's easily solved. Like if someone if someone throws tomatoes in the fridge, right? Fresh tomatoes in the fridge, you're not like, hey, it doesn't really you wouldn't look here's how I i i if they're cooking now, or if they've already brought you the tomato that they refrigerated, there's not much you can say.
+
+[41:38] Because you don't want to insult them, right? But if like you see the tomato in the fridge and they're not gonna cook it that night anyway, you take it and be like, you know what? You're you know, you spent good money on this tomato and you're kind of like hosing it by putting it in the in the fridge. Just thought you might want to know. You know what I mean?
+
+[41:54] No, you wouldn't do that? I wouldn't do it. But you're making them better. You're not hurting their feelings, you're not being a jackass. Jack, what do you think about this?
+
+[42:00] Is it okay left? He left. Is it okay to help someone out? It's not okay to help someone out. You're like, hey, you your bread'll keep longer if you take it out of the fridge.
+
+[42:09] No, I had that happen last night. I the girl brought the bread out of the fridge. Oh, Jesus, how bad was it? She uh toasted it. Ah, well, that's the good news.
+
+[42:18] So if you have bread that's staled, you can toast it. Uh, and as it warms, uh the it will get better again. But then as soon as it's cold, it's death. It's a nightmare. It's only good then for breadcrumbs or for rusks.
+
+[42:31] Do you like the word rusk? I surprised. I like the word rusk too. Anyway, so um starch retrogradation happens uh most rapidly uh at fridge temperatures and slightly below fridge temperatures, but uh not at freezer temperatures, right? So freeze freezer temperature is going to be somewhere around minus 20 Celsius, around minus four Fahrenheit.
+
+[42:51] At those places it's pretty uh pretty slowed. But the freezing rate is uh incredibly uh important. So if it takes you a billion years to freeze something, right, then uh then you get a lot of retrogradation during the freezing process. You also get a lot of retrogradation during the thawing process, which is why if you're gonna make French fries that are frozen, right, you want to freeze them relatively quickly, right? And by not super quickly, if you freeze it with liquid nitrogen quickly, you're not gonna get the dehydration phenomenon.
+
+[43:22] So one of the reasons, and this you alluded to this in your question, that French fries, when they're frozen are crunchy, is because freezing is a uh cellular uh can be looked at as a cellular dehydration process because the ice crystals aren't forming on the inside typically of the cells of the plants or or meats that you're freezing. The water is extracted from the cells and frozen extracellularly, the vast majority of it, unless you freeze with liquid nitrogen super quickly, and you can get like, you know, uh very quick uh nucleation of of crystals inside the cell. But that typically doesn't happen. So what happening is is that the water is getting squeezed out, and then when you fry it, right? That water is more easily uh liberated from the French fry, hence crunchier fry.
+
+[44:02] However, you're also getting rid of a lot so you can get a kind of what we call a hollow inside. Do you like the hollow? You don't like french fries, whatever. I'm not gonna talk to you. But like a hollow inside or a hollow core, which I don't really like.
+
+[44:13] I don't really like hollow core fries. I like I like the ins My goal is to have the inside of the fry be like a mashed potato and the outside of the fry be crunchy but not hard. That's what I'm looking for. So freezing a fry has a similar effects to drying the fry before you do your initial uh so you blanch in boiling water or simmering water, you know, boiling water salted, and then you typically dry it and then first fry, second fry. Freezing has a similar effect to drying, however, the uh freezing uh does uh kind of more all the way through the fry instead of like drying, which is more of a surface phenomenon.
+
+[44:50] That makes sense. Anyways, point being that uh if you are going to uh I'm no I'm jumping all over the map here, but from a bread standpoint, the general rule of thumb is that uh every freeze cycle and thaw cycle that you put it through is equal to uh uh assuming you do it relatively quickly, and bread freezes relatively quickly because there's not that much water in it, right? So it it does freeze relatively quickly, it just doesn't have that high of a thermal mass, right? French fries have a higher thermal mass because they have more residual water in them before the second fry. Make sense?
+
+[45:22] Anyways. So uh the rule of thumb that I've read is that every freeze thaw cycle that you put it through is like an entire day of staling. So if you're gonna freeze bread, freeze it right now. Like as soon as you say, as soon as you bring the bread home and you're like, damn, I'm not gonna use this thing in time, freeze it right now because the freeze thaw cycle just by itself is like eating it the next day. Right?
+
+[45:45] Does that make sense? So uh and this is why, and you're losing on both sides, on both the thawing side and the freezing side. You're losing as the bread is spending time in that hyper retrogradation uh retrograding stage of just below fridge temp to just above fringe temp. The rule of thumb that I read is about minus eight to about my to about plus eight Fahrenheit uh Celsius in that region, right? So uh you want to minimize the amount of time that your uh products stay in that zone, which is why the cardinal rule with French fries done this way is fry from frozen.
+
+[46:21] Right? Fry those suckers from frozen and don't go through repeated freeze thaw cycles. If you go through repeated freeze thaw cycles, you're an enemy of quality. And that's all we got this week. If you uh live here in uh New York, stay safe.
+
+[46:36] Don't slip on the way home, cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on heritage radio network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritageradio network.org.
+
+[47:08] Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Whole Foods Market, a dynamic leader in the quality food business, a mission driven company that aims to set the standards of excellence for food retailers. For more information, visit Whole Foods Market.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit HeritageRadio Network.org for thousands more. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:33] This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you late, but live on uh what is it, Tuesday? Like every Tuesday. Uh uh Robertus Pizzeria in Bushwig, Brooklyn on the Heritage Radio Network. Calling your questions to 718 497 2128. That's 718 497 2128.
+
+[0:50] Got Joe running the show in the engineering booth today. How are you doing? I'm doing great. How's it going, Dave? Yeah, all right.
+
+[0:56] All right. Got Stas, the Hammer Lopez, as usual, trying to find some extra questions on the Twitter. Actually using her phone and computer for radio related things today. Is that true? As opposed to business related, yes.
+
+[1:08] Yeah, yeah. Well, uh well, I will. Alright, wait, I'm looking on your Twitter. Well, we're trying to find I think it was uh, you know, uh uh our friend and also museum uh supporter uh I always pronounce it Gene Doe. It's a Jondo like John Doe, but Gene like Doe and Doe like bread.
+
+[1:23] Anyway, I think he was I think he made the egg thing for the circulator because someone said wanted me to comment on it. But we gotta find it. I gotta find the pictures that were sent. I believe it's Shondo's uh thing. Anyway.
+
+[1:34] So uh before you do that, Stas, why don't we talk about some of the fun things we did last week? We did uh on Friday we did an event. Turns out that was a fundraiser for the drawing center, right? Yeah. And uh it was Fran uh Adrias from uh El Bully, the bully, was uh was uh having a show of his sketchbooks, and we had to make cocktails for it.
+
+[1:54] But apparently we'll talk about that in a minute because we have a caller, caller you're on the air. Hi. Uh this is Kellen from Sweden. Wow. I am calling because I've been making tofu and after making tofu for a while, I wanted to make some soy milk, but it tastes awful.
+
+[2:11] It tastes really beanie and gross. Right. Have you had soy milk that you like before by itself? Yeah, definitely. I'm I I'm a vegan, so I eat a lot of soy milk and a lot of it is shit, but uh some of it's alright.
+
+[2:25] Huh. So your question then presumably is how to get rid of the beaniness. Correct. Well, are you making a a thin like how many uh sorry to go uh American units on you, but like roughly like how many um cups of uh soy or how many uh what's your ratio of water to soybean? Uh I think it's about one to like five, like one one cup of beans to five cups of water or something like that.
+
+[2:53] One cup dry to five? Uh soaked. Soaked? Okay. Yeah.
+
+[2:59] So that's kind of medium, right? It's not too thick, it's not too thin. I'm wondering. I'm wondering whether or not you should maybe go thinner to get rid of and you're cooking the heck out of it, right? You're you're straining it and then cooking the heck out of it, yeah?
+
+[3:11] Correct. I've even tried like shocking it. That was a suggestion someone to have on the internet was to shock the beans and then cook them after that, but it didn't seem to make a difference. You mean what do you mean, sho like shock like after you uh they wanted they they were supposedly supposedly the beanie taste is in the skins somewhere, so you were supposed to uh uh shock them in boiling water and then uh cook them again after that, which didn't really make any sense to me, but I gave it a try anyway. And and it didn't work.
+
+[3:38] No. And uh you're not using the soaking water, right? No, correct. Yeah. Uh shoot.
+
+[3:46] And they're soaked all the way through, presumably. Yeah. I wonder so the theory on the internet is that the beanie taste is water soluble and but and can be removed from the whole area. Yeah. I read something about people actually shelling soybeans mechanically somehow, but um that's not really possible at home.
+
+[4:05] Yeah, no. Uh I mean, like obviously when you're doing it s you know, the the outsides will slip off from time to time, but it's not something that you could do in any sort of repeatable way. Um this is interesting, 'cause I I only ever make tofu. I've never tried to make just the milk for the milk's sake. I mean, I've made Yuba and I've made, you know, various kinds of tofu, but I've never uh never tried to focus on just the milk by itself.
+
+[4:31] I'm wondering, you know how like um one of the interesting things about um soy is that you know everyone says that you know it's hard to over soak it, and then some people say, well, you can over soak it, but nobody really says what over soaking means. My theory is that if you've ever let the soybeans soak for a long time, that they start to ferment, and it's kind of the ferment that they're not liking and not any actual sort of over soaking of the bean. I'm wondering if there is something water soluble that's extractable from uh in in a beanie way, whether or not multiple soaks uh with a change of water might help. Uh or or um see, I don't think you'd be wise to do like a pre boil of it before you grind, because I I don't know that's that'll probably affect yield, wouldn't you think so? I I have no clue.
+
+[5:20] Yeah. This is something I'm sure that people have worried about quite extensively because people who buy the stuff commercially probably don't want the beanie taste. And I know that other um you know other foods that have bad beanie taste to them, like guar, for instance, um, you know, commercially they extract the beanie taste from them, charge a premium, but because they don't want the the the beanie the beanie taste. So I'm gonna have to do some research because I've never tried to reduce the beaniness of soy. But it's a huge problem because remember, people dope um all kinds of products with soy all the time, and the and the main uh gripe that they you have with it is the beanie flavor.
+
+[6:00] For instance, and that even the best ones are kind of beanie. Yeah, well, and so like for instance, you know, when you try to like one of the reasons to use soy in in snack foods is to increase uh kind of crunchiness without having to dope with gluten, right? Or to add the protein fraction to things without but beaniness is a constant problem. And the beaniness, the higher temperature that you put something to, the more prevalent that beanie flavor is. You know what I mean?
+
+[6:26] Like really like in terms of uh in terms of like high high high high pressure and temperature uh snack foods, for instance. So um so this is something that people worry about quite a bit, but I I haven't tried to address it. But I've you know, I've had a bunch of tofu questions recently, and I've started, you know, after a couple year hiatus, you know, making tofu on a regular basis again at home. So, you know, I over the next you know a couple of weeks, I'm sure I'll be making a couple of batches of of soy milk. And I feel really dumb.
+
+[6:57] I have not even tasted the soy milk. I just don't even taste it. I look at it to see what it's like, and then I hit it with uh with the coagulant. So I'll look into it and I'll see if I can figure out anything, and then you know, I'll re I'll report back uh on the show. And if anyone out there listening has any ideas, please tweet it in and then we'll have some sort of Twitter exchange about it.
+
+[7:20] Alrighty? Sorry, I couldn't be more direct help. No, that's great. Thank you. All right, cool.
+
+[7:24] Uh we'll we'll work on that. That's an interesting part. You like tofu stas? Or is that one of the things you actually like it? Mm-hmm.
+
+[7:29] Wow, surprisingly. Surprisingly, Stas comes out on the right side of the of the taste uh thing this time. Anyways. So uh before we go into the uh questions that we have, um we're gonna have another caller. All right.
+
+[7:42] All right, caller, you're on the air. Hey Dave. Uh love the show. I found the podcast a little while ago. Uh and I can't stop listening to it.
+
+[7:50] Oh, thanks. I've got a question for you about Sue B brisket. Okay. It's a second cup brisket. Um, and you know, the more research you do online, the fewer answers you find, and the more questions you have.
+
+[8:03] Right. So um what I wanted to do is I've got this stove top smoker. I wanted to throw it in there for about 15 minutes, get some smoke on it, then um, you know, vac it up and put it in for say 72 hours, let it go. Right. I my problem though is um, you know, with the second cup rippy, you've got a lot of collagen in there.
+
+[8:28] So I'm concerned that if I do it at a low temperature, say 140 uh Fahrenheit, then I'm gonna be, you know, it's not gonna melt, and I'm gonna be left with all that collagen in there. Right. So have you done a you've done a lot of low temp long term low temperature cooking already, or no? I wouldn't say a lot. I got myself the ANOVA 2V cooker a couple months ago.
+
+[8:51] Right. And I should say I I love it. Good. I I haven't used that one, so you like it? Yeah, I think it's great.
+
+[8:58] Nice. Alright. And it's cheap. It's 200 bucks. 200 bucks.
+
+[9:01] Can't beat that. Yeah. Um okay, but have you done a lot of long, long time low temp work? Like have you done like, for instance, like short ribs or any of those things? I did.
+
+[9:10] I did short ribs and they were fantastic. What what uh time temperature did you use for the short ribs? For the short ribs, I did I think let's see, 137, I think I did. So that's like 58 Celsius or something like that? Yeah, okay.
+
+[9:26] Yeah. And uh I actually did two bags. I did one with nothing in it, and one I poured some barbecue sauce in. And I actually preferred the one with the barbecue sauce. Okay.
+
+[9:36] Yeah, you need to remember when you're doing long cooks like that though, with sauce, barbecue sauce is quite thick as it is. But one of the mistakes people make when they're bagging this stuff is they uh they put a s uh a sauce in that has a too high of a water content, and then when the meat gives up its liquid as it cooks in the bag, as you notice the other, you know, the other one gave up, you know, its liquid, like it ends up having so much liquid in the bag that it tastes more poached, you know. And so when we did a lot of uh short ribs with more of a French sauce on it at the French culinary, uh, you know, like the comparison we always made is it stops tasting like a braise and more like a pot de feu. You know what I mean? So it's uh yeah, that that that's something to look out for.
+
+[10:12] But so you're cooking like 58 for about how long? I did almost 72 hours. Okay. So here's the here's the here's how it how it works with low temperature. And for brisket specifically, specifically for smoked and barbecue style briskets, you're gonna want to look at uh modernist cuisine and um, you know, Chris Young, because he's a bit of a barbecue fanatic, and so he spent a lot of time worrying about uh kind of smoking and temperatures.
+
+[10:37] But in general, to answer your question, um, the collagen will never render out. The collagen will get soft and it will get uh the everything will get moist, but neither the fat nor the collagen will render. So uh if you look into like one of the benefits of a low temperature, um low temperature uh meat cooked for a long term like this, is that as opposed to a braise, uh it has very high sliceability, right? But very little collagen rendering. Now the difference is in a in a traditional like uh Texas style barbecue, you know, where it's cooked for a long brisket where it's cooked for a long period of time, right?
+
+[11:17] You do get some of that coll you get that some of that collagen rendering, but you also still have sliceability, right? Because it's a different kind of cooking than a braise where everything gets busted up, right? Right. In a low temperature cooking, the temperatures are never high enough for the collagen to melt out of its out of its location once it converts to gelatin. So you end up having very soft, and you know, you still have an uncuous mouthfeel, but it hasn't totally you know imbued the entire piece of meat with that melted collagen.
+
+[11:42] Now, the reason you don't need that when you're doing low temperature work is that you've never overcooked the protein to the point where it requires a lot of extra liquid for uh for it to be palatable again, right? So in a traditional uh long cook, you go from a period of kind of dry, tough meat, all of a sudden it gets good again, right? And you know, it's one of those things you learn when you're doing long temperature uh, you know, like traditional braises or or or or you know, barbecue things like that. Um and low temperature cooking never works that way because you the the trick is is that you never take that first step of overcooking the protein, and then you're just waiting for a long time for the collagen to break down into gelatin, but still it never renders out. The one thing that I will say that bothers people is the fat that never renders out.
+
+[12:28] So, like fat caps and stuff, I tend to trim more in uh when I'm doing low temp meats than I do uh when um you know when I'm doing a traditional where I don't have to worry about it because it's going to render out and go into the sauce anyway. Does that make sense? Yeah that makes sense uh so you the collagen isn't going to have a like I I've never eaten you know unrendered collagen um it's not going to have like a bad taste or mouthfeel no it's gonna be great no the the like the only thing it's not going to break down are you know are are actual you know pieces of grizzle like a lot you know elastin and that kind of stuff won't break down but collagen will break down just fine it just won't melt out of its place. So you'll still see you'll still see it but it it will be soft you know um one thing here's another thing when you're when you're taking into account uh how how things go is that uh and I have a lot more experience with long cooks of short ribs because I have to I used to have to do it incessantly when I was teaching right and so what you notice is is that you choose your you choose how you want the meat to be done right and then you have to choose the time based on the texture that you want. And so what happens is is that um because it you're not overcooking it uh with temperature wise it never is dry and so what happens is it just goes from being tough to progressively more tender and eventually to being mushy okay and and the because the temperatures or that you're cooking with are so low um a couple of degrees makes a big difference in how long you need to cook something to get uh a particular um texture.
+
+[14:07] So for instance, if you cook a short rib uh at fifty-seven degrees uh uh Fahrenheit, uh sorry, fifty-seven degrees Celsius, which is roughly 135 uh degrees Fahrenheit, and you cook that for 24 hours, like pretty much on the on the nose, the that will have the texture of skirt steak. Okay. And I like that. People don't expect it in a short rib, so people usually don't prefer it. But I know a couple of restaurants, I think Roberta's, I think, you know, Carlo used to use a similar number uh uh as that and and sell it almost like it's a steak.
+
+[14:40] It cut eats like a steak. Now if you're doing that way, you don't want any salt or anything on it because it's going to affect the texture and make the texture more cured, right? If you cook that same uh one for 48 to 5 to 56 hours, then you start being in the traditional softness of a short rib, right? And then if you cook that for 72 hours, in my t in my feeling, it's a little too soft. And and what happens when something gets too soft, in my in my opinion, is when you bite in it, the fibers break up too easily and give up their juice kind of too easily.
+
+[15:10] It loses too much of its structure. Now, if you were to do Michelle Richard and and sh and uh uh and uh Bruno Gusot, when they were doing some of their like early kind of you know virtuoso this is what low temperature stuff can do, they were doing short ribs down at like 54.4 degrees Celsius, right? Which is you know, rare, rare. And there they needed they needed a full 72 just to get it to normal uh short rib range, right? Now if you go all the way up to 60, and I think and we've done a lot of tests of you know, 57 is kind of an interesting, which is 135, is really is interesting in that kind of meat because people aren't used to having it that rare.
+
+[15:49] It's like in a mead rare state. Uh, but uh it's still, you know, not so rare that people are like, 'cause some old timers, if you give them a rare, uh a rare brisket like that or a rare short rib, they'll they don't understand it. They're like, What are you doing to me? Are you poisoning me? What's going on?
+
+[16:04] You know what I mean? Uh but I think most people end up preferring uh closer to 60, which is 140, which is you know what the kind of the other numbers that you you've been dealing with. So I think that's a good like 140, and I think at 140, you probably don't need to go more than like 48. So I would test one at like 48 hours, and I think a pre-limb smoke isn't gonna hurt anything from a taste standpoint. But I you know, I wouldn't necessarily expect the awesome smoke ring that you would get out of a traditional thing, although you can have it happen with uh I used to get it by accident sometimes when I you know used curing salts and for like exactly the wrong amount of time I would get it just right, but I've never been the master of the of the smoke ring.
+
+[16:46] But Chris Young has uh detailed this stuff extensively. And I'm sure if you go to Chef Steps.com, Chef Steps.com, I'm sure that they uh will, you know, have like if if they don't have a specific uh um protocol for you that they'll they'll provide one. Right. Yeah, I love Chef Steps. And you actually touched on one follow-up item I wanted to ask about, which was uh salting before putting it in.
+
+[17:10] Right. Um I had read somewhere someone suggested salting uh put some salt and cracked uh pepper on it for and put it in the fridge for about two hours and then get started. Um I've read your rundown on sulfuring steaks before cooking so bead. Right. Um but I wasn't sure how that would apply to say uh a brisket.
+
+[17:32] Well, it it all depends on what you want. So you just have to you have to pay attention. So if you if like the results are pretty clear that if you salt meat before you cook it, and this actually t ties into a question I have to answer uh later today about kosher meats. If you salt meat before cooking kosher too. Oh yeah?
+
+[17:51] All right. Well so there's a the inter you know so like you know you'll hopefully hear later on I have a question on uh you know this the person says I think that kosher meats uh beef specifically you know uh isn't as good or I hear it's not as good he he can't tell because he only eats kosher so he can't do side buys right that's funny that's same with me. Yeah so uh but well well it might as well I'll get into it now and then I'll address anything I miss uh later. So um the issue is if you salt beforehand it changes the texture of the meat. So traditional uh you know steak texture is looser than I don't know any better way to say it but it's looser than not necessarily more tender just looser than meat that's been salted right and you know if you and you could tell the difference even between something that is salted you know and meant to be is sitting around for a while versus something that's even fresh salted w when you're doing koshering on it right now I've read and that's just and this is why you know for you know even you know folks that were non you know kosher right uh back in the day but you know before you know we all forget everyone brines now but I'm pretty sure that you know the the people who were the the the folks that made brining what it is today in the community in in um poultry is uh cooks illustrated.
+
+[19:12] So whether you love them or whether you hate them, I mean I know that's how I got into brining uh and I think most of us, you know, you know, decades ago that's how they got into brining in the early days of Cooks Illustrated in the 90s, early 90s, right? Uh and you know, one of the observations everyone used to make was that, hey, look at uh kosher uh kosher chicken is typically better than um better than a regular chicken when you're cooking it, you know, in a traditional fashion. And the reason is is because it's been salted, right? I mean, uh that mean that's the that is the reason. And so, you know, I think a lot of the the lot of the reason, except for a lot of times they're smaller producers and you can get a higher quality out of it, a lot of the reason to specifically look for a kosher bird once you start brining, uh, you know, is is not there.
+
+[19:57] Now m meats, beef, is not the is not the same. So beef, because you're not cooking it to those higher uh temperatures, you don't really necessarily need the protection that the salting gives you from drying out of the meat when you're cooking it. Because you know, fundamentally the reason to brine uh uh poultry when you're doing it is one for flavor, right? I mean if if it's not for if it's not to get rid of the right for you, one of the primary reasons is to get rid of the blood so that you can, you know, comply with the kosher laws. But uh, you know, the other reasons are to to uh season the meat and to uh have the the salt um alter the conformation to the protein such that they hold on to their water better and respond better to overcooking without drying out.
+
+[20:40] Now in a steak that's going to be cooked rare, that's not an issue because you um you're you're cooking it rare, you're not gonna overcook the the the meat. And so you don't want the salt in there because the altered uh proteins aren't don't taste the same. They don't have the same texture as an unsalted piece of uh rare steak does. They're not bad, they're just different. So um, you know, one of the things that I was wondering is is that I know it's allowed.
+
+[21:11] I went on uh kind of the you know, the the hardest core uh group that I could find was uh you know the uh Shabbat Loblovishers and I looked at their koshering thing and apparently you can get um you know properly slaughtered meat that has not yet been uh salted and salt it yourself at home and if you look at the numbers uh right so to properly kosher a uh a steak you're gonna need to uh soak it for uh I think it's like a half hour I have the numbers in the iPad but it's you know it's gone to sleep right now it's like a half hour or an hour or something like that in water. And that's gonna be fine. That's not going to do uh too much uh damage to it. It'll take on some water but that's not a big deal from a textural standpoint, right? And then you rinse off anything uh you know uh any clots or anything that are on the outside and now you salt it for a half hour right and and that salting for a half hour and then you required uh a you know a triple rinse after that my feeling is if you have a good thick steak and you do that that and you cook it right away that the meat is going to have a very similar texture to uh an unkoshered piece of meat uh from um from a protein standpoint texture so if you know if you can get away with that if you could swing that to do a s then I would do a side by side on that versus one that's uh had the salting done at the butcher shop because from my reading apparently both are allowed and that will allow you to have kind of a side by side on what the you know what the difference would be between something that would salted a long time before and something that hadn't.
+
+[22:44] Now the other thing is, depends on how thorough their rinsing of the salt off is as well, uh, you know, or how thick the piece of meat is. I mean, I don't know what the laws are on how thick a piece of meat you're allowed to kosher that way with it with a simple half hour uh salting. Um but I know this. If you salt a steak and you cook it in uh in a bath for uh an hour, it still tastes like uh a normal steak. If you salt it and you cook it for an hour and a half, you know, uh it still tastes like a normal steak.
+
+[23:14] Th two hours, three hours, then you start having more of the texture of a cured steak even when it's rare. Now, luckily for you, on a brisket, it you know, you're cooking it above that rare temperature anyway, and so you're not gonna have those same issues. Is that make sense? Yeah, so you're saying that it it shouldn't really matter. Not at not at those temperatures.
+
+[23:37] Uh, my feeling is is that once you're above uh like 135 uh or thereabouts, like the difference between uh the salted and the unsalted is not gonna make that much, not gonna make as much of a difference. Uh and if I'm starting with a kosher piece of meat anyway, then there isn't really any sense to salting at home again. Well, I don't know. I mean the question is like, you know, if you cook it and it it I mean again, I don't know how much of the salt is in it and then stays in it after the triple rinse, because remember, you're triple rinsing it after you salt it, it's to get the surface salt off, but I don't know how much is still in the meat, because it's only been sitting a half hour, so a lot's gonna depend on how thick the meat is. Uh, you know, uh a salting beforehand might still make a big difference.
+
+[24:23] Because you remember when you're when you're salting a steak uh to sear it, typically you're putting a boat ton of salt on it. You know what I mean? You grind a lot of pepper on it and you put a good salting on the outside. And now that sucker's sitting in a bag at high temperature for a long time. And so you're getting a lot more salt penetration than you would out of, let's say, a you know, out of a piece of meat that's being koshered for the minimum half an hour salt time on each side.
+
+[24:49] Does that make sense? So it it might still be an issue. I've never done a side-by-side, for instance, on going to a uh coach or busher shop and ordering two different thicknesses of the same cut that have both been salted after they're cut to see whether or not there's a big difference in texture between those low temperature cooked. That'd be an interesting test to run, you know. Um I just don't know.
+
+[25:13] Right. Um I'll put it in a plug if you want to find some kosher meat. My buddy uh runs this company, Grow and Behold in Brooklyn, uh, where you can get some good kosher meat. It's called Grow and Behold? Yeah.
+
+[25:29] Alright. I'll check it out. They do a good job. Yeah, I think so. Alright.
+
+[25:33] And uh just before I go, maybe if you have any uh modernist Super Bowl ideas for next week. Ooh, well, that's more of a stashing. I was gonna ask her what she's doing for the Super Bowl. You're gonna Sears all some stuff? Are you are you having the party at your house or someone else's house?
+
+[25:46] Phil's house. Oh, Phil's house. Nastasha's friends hate food. Is that true or false? It's true.
+
+[25:51] They love food, they just don't care. Phil Phil Br Phil Bravo, who I'm allowed to make fun of because he was supposed to come on the show and like do some announcing for us and never did. Like uh, you know, he's his his like signature dish is bone in overcooked tilapia. So like I doubt they're gonna have any modernist stuff at the Nastasha stuff for you know for Super Bowl. I don't I don't even know if I mean I'm sure I'll have it on because I have a TV this year for the first time in a long time.
+
+[26:15] But you know, like if I was gonna do uh I mean, my here's the other issue. My wife doesn't really like wings. I know this sounds bad, but my wife doesn't like wings because she doesn't like the bones. I like nachos a lot. Maybe I'll make maybe I'll make a boatload of nachos, in which case I'll just be using the Searsol to do a uh to do a uh you know a cheese toast on that.
+
+[26:29] I gotta think about it. We didn't really do any good a good job with thinking the Super Bowl stuff for the uh program, did we, Stuz? No. Because you're the only one that cares, but you don't care about coming up with stuff for the show. So I did the tailgate.
+
+[26:43] Oh yeah, stuzz you well, what do you do with the tailgate? We use it for everything. We grilled sausages, we uh boiled beans by holding it under the pot. We made s'mores. You did the the broth stone, right?
+
+[26:57] Yeah, brass. Yeah, so they did the sausage, they did like the classic like the 140 cook off of the sausage and then uh sear off with the with the cerezal. By the way, like it's not necessarily like it's not really modernist, but the pre-cook of a sausage in uh, you know, whatever kind of sausage you want, your case beef obviously, uh or lamb. Lamb sausage, delicious. Um, you know, pre-cooking it at uh 60, 140, and then doing a like a uh like a flash finish on the outside, it's such a technically superior way to cook a sausage that it surprises me that you would ever cook a sausage a different way unless you know you needed to cook one right now and you didn't want to bust out of circular.
+
+[27:35] But if you had a circulator, I wouldn't see any reason to cook a sausage any different way. Uh so bring it up to tamper at 60. Doesn't matter how long. I let it ride for a while. I usually put it I usually put the the the sausages in uh Ziplocks with uh with a little bit of uh oil and uh I let 'em ride for uh a while, a couple hours usually at sixty.
+
+[27:58] And here here's the reason is that uh in a sausage, um you you're using the the grinder to break up typically tough pieces of meat and uh and the tenurization is a mechanical one, right? Grinding. And then you have fat to lubricate the meat because you're gonna overcook the meat, right? So you know you're gonna overcook the meat and you know that it's tough. So you have a lot of fat and you grind the hell out of it, you put it into a casing sausage.
+
+[28:23] Right. Now, if you uh if you say, Okay, look, I'm gonna go low temp, so I'm not gonna overcook the meat, right? That's one benefit right there. But also remember, each individual grain in the sausage is still from a tougher piece of meat, right? So if you cook it for longer than you normally would, it's gonna tenderize.
+
+[28:40] Now you don't need to cook it for you know, you know, a zillion years, but you know, I let 'em just sit there at at you know uh 140 at 60 for a long time until they're ready to go, and then I let 'em cool down a uh a little bit and then I do a quick sear off. And people love those sausages. They really do. Cool. Gotta give it a try.
+
+[29:00] Yeah. Yeah. I've done any low temperature wings because that would be a home thing, and like I say, my wife doesn't love it. But like I guarantee you you could do a low like here, like a low temperature wing. Here's the problem with a low temperature wing, I gotta say, is that when you um when you're doing um bone in chicken low temp, uh you tend to never lose uh uh that little bit of a uh there's a little bit of a bloodline on the uh on the bone that's very hard to get rid of, so you get this persistent pinking.
+
+[29:29] And if you do it in a vacuum bag, it gets even worse because the sucking the vacuum on uh the chicken bones pulls some of the the pink stuff from the interior of the bone almost, at least that's what I think, to the outside of the meat. And it just those colors never go away when you're doing low temperature cooking. And that's why like uh pretty much a hundred percent of the chicken that I do low temperature, I bone it out first. Uh and so it's not really good for for wings, you know? Yeah.
+
+[29:57] I actually blog has a recipe for uh low temperature chicken wings that I tried and I was not terribly impressed. Yeah, do you remember what their specs were? I don't. This was a few months ago. Yeah, I mean, like I do low temperature chicken all the time, and I think a lot of the problem with low temperature chicken, well, here's what I do.
+
+[30:16] I typically cook the I cook the dark meat boned out, uh, I salt it, and then I cook it in uh in salted milk for about 45 minutes at uh 66 uh or 665, depending on how I feel, and I cook the breast meat at around sixty-four and a half to sixty-five for the same amount of time. Uh and then I pull it out of the bag, flash it, uh flash it dry uh by by letting it air out when it's hot, then I do my uh my breading and and I fry them. And the advantage of doing low temperature uh stuff that way at like a party, let's say, for instance, with Super Bowls, if you have other fried stuff like rings or fries, that you can fry everything at the same high temperature because you don't need to worry about cooking the chicken, it's already cooked. Whereas if you're doing uh like a large fried item like a fried chicken, you would normally have to drastically reduce the temperature of the fry oil or you would never get it cooked all the way through before you burnt the outside. So the pre cook on that I do more from a um more from a workflow um benefit because if you want to do it without doing the traditional pre you know step, you have to do tenders.
+
+[31:28] That's why chicken tenders are such a good idea from a workflow standpoint. Uh not them yeah, and also it's using that crappy piece of meat. But you know what I'm saying, it's like it's like making it small enough so it can cook uh all the way through. Whereas if you have it pre cooked, you don't need to worry about it. Right.
+
+[31:42] All right, very cool. Thank you. All right, well, have a good Super Bowl. Thank you. All right.
+
+[31:44] All right, bye. And so just a shout out to the question who the person who wrote in the original question, uh, June Malka wrote in and said, we we answered it mostly. My question for you today is regarding kosher meat, which you may or may not have experience working with. I've heard numerous times from people who tried both that the quality of kosher steaks they have eaten at kosher restaurants is significantly worse than what is offered at your average non-kosher steakhouse. The discrepancy is blamed on the koshering process that the meat goes through post slaughter.
+
+[32:12] Being that I can't do a side by side uh because I only eat kosher, I wonder if you explain from a theoretical standpoint why this may be the case. I think it has more to do with the actual quality of the meat that's being served rather than the koshering process, but I could very well be wrong. Um my understanding is that meat that is labeled kosher does not have uh to have the USDA grading uh as being primer choice. From my own kosher shopping experiences, I find it very difficult to find the same consistently good looking cuts, similar to what I noticed even in your average grocery butcher's case, and I wonder if this is where the difference lies. Um so anyway, uh I don't know, so that could also be an issue that you don't have access to the high I have a really kind of weird you want to hear a weird one?
+
+[32:47] We have nine minutes. Nine minutes. Um you want to still want to hear a weird one? So okay, so a family member of mine uh, you know, or it used to be a butcher, and they were butchers for uh generations. Right.
+
+[33:02] About the kosher? No, about the So well the way you don't know what story I'm gonna tell. So so hush it. So anyway, so f he was uh a butcher in Boston for many years, and their specialty was lamb. And one of the things that they used to do uh was they would um they would supply the kosher market, right?
+
+[33:19] Because there weren't that many people who were doing their own lamb slaughtering because they would go, you know, up north of Boston and get their own lambs, and then they would uh you know they would do the slaughtering. And they would hire, they'd have, you know, they'd have the uh you know the rabbi there who would do the inspection on the carcasses to make sure that they uh you know were kosher, that there was no blemishes, no problems. Now, here's the problem. They paid the rabbi a specific amount of money to uh check the lamb. Now, the rabbi got paid whether or not the animal passed or not, right?
+
+[33:54] So whether or not they got the kosher stamp on the sucker, uh they had to pay whatever the whatever the inspection charge was. So here's how they used to get around it. There's like, you know, like old sch old school uh like Boston thievery kind of stuff. They would they looked for a long time on what the rabbi would do. And one of the things he would do is he would stick his hand inside of the lamb and uh check to make sure that the lining, the pleura, the uh where the lungs were was not attached, that it was free all the way around.
+
+[34:24] And that was, you know, the main check they would do to make sure that the that the animal wasn't sick or had a problem. So what these guys used to do is they would shove uh uh a knife into a small incision like up north of where the uh the rabbi would check and they would shove their fingers in and separate the pleura from the um uh from the from the you know the thing so it looked clean, and then when they made the when when you know when the rabbi came to make the check and check, then he would give it a kosher whether it was kosher or not. Can you believe that? It's a crazy story. Here's another thing I didn't realize is that you can kosher something with uh with fire as well by broiling it.
+
+[35:01] And in fact, according to uh you know the labovature site I went on, that's really the only way to do liver because you can't apparently salt the blood out of liver, but I had no idea that uh like like real koshered like chicken livers had been broiled till they were half done before they were then cooked again. Did you know that? I did not know that. Did not know. Uh anyway, that was from uh Judah Malka.
+
+[35:23] Uh and so hopefully that uh answered that question. Okay. Um Joshua writes in about uh oh before we get to to that question we got a uh a thing in from Aaron about pedal valves and he said your listeners might like to look up pedalvalve.com uh and because as everyone who who's heard me say it knows I love foot pedals on a sink uh but it's kind of difficult to hook up pedals the way I have them. So Aaron points us to pedalvalve.com which uh you know has residential foot pedals that you can install into they say into any regular sink. Here's the issue though I looked at that website and that'll work.
+
+[35:59] And but for what they want to do you could get almost any mixing pedal valve, for instance TNS brass, and hook it up the way that they want to, although they might they give you the adapters and whatnot. They the the issue on that website is that those foot pedals uh you are required to keep your sink in the on position at all times in order to have the uh foot pedal operate and I don't know whether you can operate them independently. I have to read more right whereas mine the handles the wrist handles are completely independent of the foot. So if you want to operate my sink like a normal sink with handles you can. If you want to operate it with foot pedals you can or any combination thereof.
+
+[36:39] You could have the hot water on with the wrist handle and then I could hit the cold water with the foot pedal to moderate the temperature, I can do anything I want. So that's the real trick that I don't think that the pedal valve uh guys are uh addressing because they're they're not looking to integrate into a particular faucet. They're looking to integrate into most of the uh single mixing uh two uh faucets. Anyway, uh my thoughts on that. Um Joshua writes in about nitro stout and bottles.
+
+[37:07] Uh Dave, Nasasha, Jack, and Joe. Not Jack, he doesn't like us. No. No. Anyway.
+
+[37:12] Uh I've been playing around with beer gas, which uh is a nitrogen and CO2 blend to carbonate different beverages in order to get the creamy carbonated mouthfeel of a nitrostout. I started with clarified fruit juices and got nothing. Uh I added various amounts of gelatin to fruit juice because head retention in beers is protein related and got about 60 seconds of that mouthfeel I wanted before it disappeared. So, what is responsible for the properties that nitro stout has, and how can I alter other beverages to have that same akarimi carbonated mouthfeel for as long as possible. I was just in New York on business and made a beeline for Sambar and Booker and Dax.
+
+[37:44] Booker and Dax always manages to hit it out of the park, so thank you. I also love the apothecary type glass bottles you use. I would love to find uh similar. Where could I get them? Thanks for the great show and for helping my culinary education.
+
+[37:54] Joshua, okay. First of all, on our bottles, uh the small ones, you you know, I looked around, you can get them um online. Best bottles.com has some, they're fancier, uh, and they're like six dollars a piece. I looked on W dot saveoncrafts.com, and they do like weddings and stuff, and they had them on like uh eight-ounce cork top uh clear glass apothecary bottles, like a 12 count case for not that much for like 18 bucks. That's the way I go.
+
+[38:21] The larger ones we use are actually espalon, tequila espalon bottles, uh that they look just like those apothecary bottles but larger uh in 750 size. So we use those. Now, on the uh milk nitrous stuff, um uh here's the deal. Uh beer gas is nitrogen and carbon dioxide, as you say. And the point of beer gas is so that you can have a high pressure on the keg to drive the product through without having a lot of carbonation, right?
+
+[38:51] That's the idea on beer gas. You can have fairly low volumes of carbonation and a fairly high pushing pressure. So the nitrogen is there really to not dissolve into your um not dissolve into your your product that much. Now, on a widget, right, in a Guinness, for instance, like it's there to push through and to create small bubbles that lift up to the top and create that head, right? They're releasing it, they're releasing it that way.
+
+[39:15] Now, these nitro guys don't have a widget in there, right? It's left hand brewing company are the ones that are making this, like the nitro stout. And uh I I can't get I can't speak to what they do, but here's what I think. They said we considered putting a patent, literally they said in 2010, I think, we considered putting a patent on the process, but didn't want our competitors to know how we do it. And here's a little another little secret nitrogen is not very soluble in uh in liquids.
+
+[39:42] And that's really the point of why they're using it in uh beer gas to begin with. Uh my feeling is they're not using nitrogen. My feeling is they're using nitrous oxide, which is what I use all the time to put creamy uh mouthfeel into carbonated beverages and have been doing for a long, long, long time. And that's what like AW Root beer uh did and Sunkiss, they used to have uh um uh creamy sodas that had nitrous in them. Nitrous oxide is completely soluble in gas, doesn't get uh in in liquid, doesn't give a prickly mouthfeel, uh, and create and gives you that that exact thing.
+
+[40:17] So what you can do as a first approximation if you don't have uh if you don't have a source of nitrous, like I have it in the bottles, and I I've, you know, for years I've had a mixing system where I can mix however much nitrous I want in with my carbon dioxide. Is you can uh like kind of precarbonate uh something, then put it into an ISI bottle, right? Uh, and then hit it with some nitrous. Uh, and that'll put nitrous into it, and it'll see whether or not that is kind of the thing that you're looking for. But since you can't make nitrogen dissolve uh effectively in a bottle without a mechanical widget in it, my guess is that uh and again uh I'd be happy to have someone tell me I'm completely wrong, but my guess is that those nitro guys are saying nitrogen but using nitrous, which contains nitrogen, so it's not strictly speaking a lie.
+
+[41:05] But that that is my uh that is my feeling. What'd you say before, Stas? What? Zero minutes now. Wait, they're not gonna let me answer any more questions?
+
+[41:12] How many more do you have? I have a bunch. Here's the thing. I got a I got a question in uh from Sam about parchment paper. I'll deal with that one uh next week.
+
+[41:21] I got another question from Josh in uh Antigua uh about quinoa and about Lupini beans. I did a lot of research actually on the Lupini beans, and I got some information for you, Josh, but I guess we'll have to get to that uh next a week. Uh and with that, that's the cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[41:57] You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Whole Foods Market, a dynamic leader in the quality food business, a mission-driven company that aims to set the standards of excellence for food retailers. For more information, visit Whole Foods Market.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Cooking is the show in your questions to Cooking Issues.
+
+[1:00] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from Albertus Pizzeria in Bushwig, Brooklyn, on the Heritage Radio Network, every Tuesday from roughly twelve to roughly one o'clock. Joined as usual with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. How are you doing, Stuff? I'm sick.
+
+[1:13] Yeah. On the mend or not? You were really sick yesterday. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[1:17] A little bit better? A little bit better. Yeah. Mm-hmm. Jack, you over there?
+
+[1:22] I'm here. You wanted to before we get going, Jack wanted us to plug some of the new stuff. For those of you, uh I don't know whether how people listen to this, whether they're listening to it on the Heritage Radio Network, which we encourage, or uh whether you're getting this off the iTunes or whatnot, but uh at the Heritage Radio Network, we have a fairly new uh format on our website that allows you to pull up kind of little blips and bleeps and blobs of what we think are newsworthy uh things from our various programs. Uh organized by subject along with some s you know special presented and curated things by uh Jack and the crew over there. So why don't you why don't you give people a little uh little little taste of what's going on over there?
+
+[2:01] So what you want to do is just go visit the homepage every day and click one of the pieces. Should we listen to it to a one minute or two minute piece of you here? Well, I mean, they're about to listen to a whole you know. I guess they're about to hear you, right? Yeah.
+
+[2:13] Yeah. Well you got someone that's not me that we can show them a little clip of. Oh, someone that's not you. Yeah, we'll get that after the break, maybe. Let's kick into the show first.
+
+[2:21] All right, we'll do the show. Call in your questions to 7184972128, that's 718497. A 21, a two-eight. Uh, by the way, last week I was told that uh uh I never got to this story with where we're doing the thing with Faron Adria. Oh, yeah.
+
+[2:37] So he's doing this show at the at the drawing center, and they were doing a fundraiser for the drawing center. And I think it was uh, you know, uh images, sketches of foods and ideas and plates and stuff from uh his notebooks, right? I know I didn't see it. Did you see it? Nope.
+
+[2:50] Anywho, Farron was there. I didn't really say I didn't say hello. Uh not because me because it's he doesn't give a rat's too. Anyways, I didn't say hello, but it was like uh Thomas Keller, uh Daniel Balud, uh Dan Barber, uh who who else? I'm missing I'm missing uh whatever.
+
+[3:08] Oh Dominique Ansel? Yeah, anyway. Uh a whole, you know, oh uh Mario Batali, our buddy. Uh so that was uh you know a whole casting crew of uh folks there cooking this uh fundraising meal. Five thousand dollars a plate.
+
+[3:21] Five thousand dollars a plate. Uh and we make cocktails. Uh so anyway, two of the cocktails that uh we put there they're from my book actually, my upcoming book. Which I think I think the title is set now. It's got I think it's called Liquid Intelligence.
+
+[3:35] Not my title idea, my publisher's idea. Yeah, tell me what you guys think. Although liquid intelligence is actually a technical term for a kind of what I don't want to get into it. Anyway, so the um, so I do two, I do this is where the story comes in. So we're sitting there, we're doing that was Piper's Last Day as well.
+
+[3:50] Mm-hmm. Yeah, Piper. No, no longer with the company. Uh we wish him, wish him well. Yeah.
+
+[3:57] Uh so anyway, so it's our our last uh event with Piper. We're sitting there. Thomas Keller comes up, he's like, you know, we're we're plossing, we're busy, you know what I mean? Uh we're not really plossing, just you know, prepping, whatever. Uh and he goes, uh, so you guys, is this gonna be good?
+
+[4:11] He goes like, well, I don't know. I never know whether something's gonna be good or not. You know, I hope. I plan, I try to make everything as good as possible. He's like, Well, you've done all these drinks before, right?
+
+[4:20] He's like, Well, you know, two of the ones are one, you know, drinks off the bar menu, uh, and two are you know, ones that I've never served in public before. He's like, Well, that's really st that's really stupid. That was your mistake. He's like, you know, never go to an event and and uh do something that you haven't done a bunch of times before. I was like, damn, I just got called out as an idiot by Thomas Keller.
+
+[4:43] So I was pretty psyched. I mean, like you could do worse than we get called out uh as an idiot by uh Thomas Keller, am I right? Mm-hmm. You weren't even like Stas was too busy prepping, so she didn't even I don't even think she was paying attention to that. Right?
+
+[4:54] No. No? No. And then right after that, we did an event at our friend Gayland Quinn, who's the person who shifts me to Columbia every now and again, that the country, not the university, which by the way, as everyone knows, you spell Columbia with an O. It's not spelled like Columbia University or like Columbus the guy.
+
+[5:10] It's Columbia. For some reason, Americans, maybe is it New Yorkers or all Americans that can't get that right? I don't know. I have no idea. On the menu of Booker and Dax at one point, because we had a drink called the French Columbian, they put it up as like the French went to Columbia for university.
+
+[5:28] Strange, right? Anyway, strange. I don't get it. Anyway, I don't know where. Oh, yeah.
+
+[5:31] So we were doing an event at uh, you know, uh that restaurant, uh Feel Food, right? Not Phil Bravo food, feel food, and uh Phil Bravo, by the way, who none of you have heard, but someday he will he will regale us, uh, regale us with his mellifulous uh voice and his uh thorough Ravencroft impressions. By the way, those of you who don't know Thor Ravencroft, Thor Ravencroft, uh, not only the uh song in the Grinch, uh Boris Carloff, the voice of the Grinch, but Thor Ravencroft, the uh song. The also the same guy who was uh did the Monster Mash voice and wait for it, Tony the Tiger. And Phil Bravo does an unbelievable Tony the Tiger, and you know, he's just a too much of a jerk to come on and do it for us.
+
+[6:16] Because I want him to come on and do the they're great, but the sad they're great. Phil Bravo doing a sad Tony the Tiger, they're great, is like, you know, life-changing experience. They're great. But he doesn't with like this like the super low, whatever. I don't know how that how the hell they gave me this.
+
+[6:30] So we're doing at Field Food, right? Oh yeah, I remember. So they go to us, hey, look, we're getting these products in from South America, these fruit pureees that like we want you to use cashew fruit puree. Like, all right, I like cashew fruit puree. So we made a drink with it.
+
+[6:42] Uh the problem with cashew fruit uh puree, cashew fruit in general, is it has what I always call kind of a phenolic y note to it, kind of like a plasticky nose to it. Tastes good, but has a pl we mixed it with gin, and then uh uh and then we covered it up with with this chuncho amargo, which is a Peruvian bitters, right? And we liked that drink, we thought it was good. And you even liked it, even though it had gin in it. And Stas, I'm not gonna call her out on this.
+
+[7:04] In other words, oh, I am calling her out right now, is not a fan of gin, but I'm not gonna berate her for it. I'll call you out, but I won't berate you. Like other things, like biscuits, for Christ's sakes. But the uh, but then the other one, they're like, we want you to use one of our nut milks, right? So, like, but they're not like nut milks like that we make, which are like straight ahead, like, you know, nut like milk.
+
+[7:25] Hemp, what was it? Sunflower seed and hemp. Like fresh, cold pressed, like nut milk stuff with no stabilizers, by the way. So we made a drink with that with rum, what was it? Rum, coconut water, and that nut milk.
+
+[7:39] And it's pretty good. And like some simple syrup and and uh lemon juice, right? Lemon juice. So Stas and I are like, Stas and I are like, we're gonna kick this gin instantly. Because they were it was done in a blender and it was like all slushy, it's good.
+
+[7:52] We're gonna kick this thing instantly, and we're gonna sell maybe two of these nut milk drinks, which is how it would happen if we did the event with our normal crew. Those health food folks sucked down that hemp milk like it was I don't know. I don't know what. Stas has a hemp milk face on it. Wow.
+
+[8:11] That well, that was you. I I served no pregnant lady. Stas was like, Stas was like, hey, look it's whatever. Yeah. And she was an English speaker.
+
+[8:23] Yeah. I said it very clear. Yeah. And what what how did you describe the ingredient list? It's not safe.
+
+[8:29] It's not safe for work. Oh, if you could only read Nastasha's lips right now, people, we would no longer have a show. Uh the uh, okay, so uh we have some questions in. Uh oh, by the way, we had a question, remember last week, uh call-in question on uh tofu milk, uh soy milk and beaniness. And I said I would uh research it, and I did.
+
+[8:50] Uh and very interesting. I had a we had a um a uh a tweet in pointing out now, listen, uh person's name is fun, and I'm gonna get in trouble. I'm gonna get in trouble even saying this person's Twitter handle. I will say it because it's not technically a curse but I want you to know senor or senorita fun as the case might be uh you're putting me in a bind. It's inshallah six six six so this is theoretically could be an offensive Twitter handle, right?
+
+[9:19] I don't know. It's like a mix of like of inshallah and six six six what's insular. You know like God you know God willing. I'm gonna do X God willing. You know what I mean?
+
+[9:27] Yeah. Uh so anyway. Stas is not offended. Stats doesn't care. Stas doesn't care.
+
+[9:33] She's like you know Stas is the queen of not giving a rat's like she's like uh what's like the queen and sense insensitiva. That's her like completely yeah she's whatever. But I don't even want to don't even get me started, please. Don't get me started. Anyway uh fun.
+
+[9:50] Thank you for calling out uh the uh shirtleaf as I've mentioned like a zillion times I you know have uh you know um their tofu book that's you know the famous tofu book but uh they came out with a second one called um oh man what the hell is it called it's called Tofu and Soy Milk Production a technical guide and it's much harder to get I don't have it but they sent me information according to shirtleaf now this is like nineteen seventy nine nineteen eighty but I'm sure the research probably still stands the beaniness is primarily caused by uh fat oxidation right uh lipoxygenase enzymes I believe right and the answer to there's several ways you can get around uh hat so what happens is is that the you you you take soybeans and they're fine. And then you blend them and all of a sudden oxygen and broken cell walls and broken cells and you know b the blending of the bean puts the enzyme which formerly was not in contact with either oxygen with neither oxygen nor uh fat gets put into contact with oxygen and fat and very quickly creates those beanie notes that you get in soy milk. Alright. So now someone said you can take the hulls off their parents took the hulls off and indeed it's it seems likely from looking at the composition of uh soybean that that would actually help decrease the the flavor some uh the beanie flavor somewhat uh also using defatted soy meal although that's this is not the point like the like if you're asking me how to make it you're probably not going to be using defatted soy meal right which you know you probably want to use whole soybeans which is what I want to use. So that's one option because if you remove the fat there's no substrate for the uh for the uh lipid oxidation enzymes to work on and therefore no no beanie flavor right third option is to keep the is to grind hot so uh what shirtle says in the book is that if you if you are grinding the soybeans and the temperature of the of the water in the blender never goes below eighty degrees Celsius right then and you can and you maintain that 80 degrees for I forget it's like five to ten minutes then the you will destroy denature the uh the lipid oxidation enzymes but you uh with i and that's it boom without affecting the um yield of the tofu or or the flavor of the or the you know the or the soy milk you won't affect the yield or the texture of it.
+
+[12:16] Whereas, if you were to just cook the soybeans beforehand in simmering water at 80 degrees long enough to deactivate the um enzymes before you blend them, it can adversely affect the texture of the soy milk. It can make it gritty or chalky because you're um swelling uh the the cells and the components, and it's not gonna break up the same way as if you grinded them before they had been cooked. Does this make sense, Daz? Okay. So what do you do?
+
+[12:44] The trick is is to use boiling water and in your blender and to not add any more soy to it than what would require to drop the temperature down below boil. So as long a below 80. So as long as you are adding small amounts, right? So normally when I'm making soy milk stas, I blend the soybeans in a relatively small amount of water in the blender so I don't have to blend too many batches, and then I dump it into a relatively large amount of hot water, right? And remember the reaction takes very place very quickly, so you can't grind quickly and then dump into boiling water, it doesn't work.
+
+[13:15] So it seems to me that the best way to do it, now the the problem though is is to take larger amounts of water, have two boiling pots of water, and do smaller batches with higher amounts of boiling water, and then dump them into your into your boiling pot and keep the thing above 80 for the 10 minutes. The only downside here is um that it might be hard to get good particle size if there's too much water to soybean ratio because there's not as m much solids for your blender blades to act on if it's too uh liquid of a slurry when you're blending. You know what I'm saying, Stas? So it's gonna take some uh some experimentation. But I had some other ideas.
+
+[13:54] I don't know whether I mentioned this uh on the air, but uh it's I had a couple of tofu questions a couple uh months back, and then someone sent me the uh Andrea uh Nguyen uh tofu book, and I read that I started making tofu again, which I hadn't done in a long time. And one of the things that she said that was really interesting was that I never thought about is that you could soak your soybeans and then you could save them for for a couple of days, like a week in the fridge, right, without grinding them or anything. Because the the real pain in the butt about uh you know soybeans, uh tofu is the soak time beforehand. So if you want to make tofu, you know, it's like an hour and a half commitment or something like that. Uh, you know, not working all the time, but it's like an hour and a half.
+
+[14:31] But it but you have to know like eight to ten hours in advance, right? And you can accelerate the soak time somewhat by using warm water, but whatever, there's a limit, you know. Um but then I was uh I read this article uh that says if you soak the soybeans and then freeze them, right, before you grind them with water, uh then you uh you can actually uh increase the firmness of the tofu and get a better they they say that in their texture test that people like it better. Now it's denser, it's more uniform, it coagulates harder and faster with a slightly lower yield because it's got it's denser. Whether you like that more or less is up to you, right?
+
+[15:11] But it's interesting that you can freeze it and get a different textural effect than if you hadn't, and the reason is is that it changes the conformations of the protein slightly. And they froze it in the article that I read. They froze it prior to grinding. So they soaked the beans and then froze the soaked beans and then just thawed the beans with the water in the blender and proceeded as normal. Now, this won't solve your if you're trying to make non-beanie tasting soy milk, this won't solve your problem.
+
+[15:34] In fact, it might exacerbate the problem. But it led me to think that what you you could do is soak your beans, then vac bag them and freeze them for a long period of time, and then just have frozen vac bag soybeans soaked, ready to go for soy milk, which might be awesome. It also might be possible, and I have to look up the numbers, I don't know, to inactivate these uh these enzymes, these um lipoxygenase enzymes, uh, at lower temperatures for longer periods of time in a vac bag, in it you're cooking in a vac bag or even in the soak water. So let's say you had a circulator. Maybe it's possible to um to cook it at a lower temperature, let's say 60, 65 Celsius, before the cell wall is getting too damaged, uh before the the beans are getting too damaged before you're doing too much to the to the beans, and then uh just do that for a long time, wipe out the enzymes, then maybe freeze and process as normal.
+
+[16:27] I'm gonna test like when I have a spare minute, which won't be for a couple of weeks, I'll be testing these things in drips and drabs, and I'll get back to you as I test them because that kind of stuff's uh uh seems interesting. Anyway, long-winded answer to the soy problem. But whatever, I like soy. You know, there's a bunch of people on the interwebs who are anti-soy. I think people are so nutty.
+
+[16:47] There's a there's an article that came out uh recently. I'll try to try to read a few guys for next week. If you guys can tweet in to me what you think about it, uh there's a couple of new studies on sugar. More sugar is the devil kind of studies that are out. Like, you know, like mark of the be sugar is like the mark of the beast.
+
+[17:04] And then and like, you know, the the commentators on the TV. I haven't read the article yet. I didn't get a chance to read it, but the commentators on the TV are are just as rabid as they are normally, like saying that, you know, trying to make some sort of differentiation between uh sugar and fruit and sugar and sugar. Like, and uh, you know, more more like magic bullet, we would all just be okay if we didn't have sugar. But I want to read the actual article, and if anyone could uh see what they see what they think and tweet their uh feelings on it uh into me to help guide me uh as I hopefully have time to uh investigate that for next week's show.
+
+[17:36] Uh okay. Oh, by the way, Stas. Someone wrote in uh uh Richard uh Kokovich wrote in regarding uh you not talking to uh you know telling your friends that they were sticking their tomatoes in the fridge and all this other stuff I talked to them this weekend about it. You did? And what happened?
+
+[17:54] No, I said isn't it funny how I don't tell you guys what to do with your food and they said yeah because we all have really strong personalities and wouldn't stand for it. And I was like that's really weak. Hi I have a really strong personality so I'm gonna ruin everything. I walk around with my underwear over my head and you won't tell me because my personality's so strong I have a giant herb sticking out of my nose and you won't tell me because my personality is strong. That's weak.
+
+[18:20] Personality is strong. I'll let them all know. Uh you should let them know that it is not a a sign of strength to be an idiot with expensive food products and to treat them like crap for no freaking reason. I'm group texting it right now. And Richard agrees with me and he says it's perfectly okay to call out enemies of quality.
+
+[18:39] Recently did so to a friend over uh because of oversteeping his French press coffee. Boom. What do you guys think? I get killed for this all the time. I can't even open my mouth around my friends.
+
+[18:51] Yeah but you know what? You know what? Suck it. If someone like I if someone were to say to you uh you know if you were to do something like just like it's not like okay look if someone is has some sort of horrible like thing that they can't help right then don't bring it up. That's that's being a jackass, right?
+
+[19:14] If someone uh you know can't do any better because they're limited in some way, or they have bad knife skills. You don't walk up to someone who has bad knife skills and man, man, you suck with a knife. You know what I mean? Because that's just being a jerk. And they can't help it because they don't have practice, right?
+
+[19:31] But obliterating an ingredient for no reason when it's just as easy to not obliterate it. It takes no extra effort. In fact, it takes less effort to just leave the tomato on the freaking counter. You know what I mean? It's not, it's it's not the same thing.
+
+[19:48] It's not the same. I won't throw the person under the bus, but I uh tried to tell somebody that there was cooking time on a box of pasta, and they they called me you know pretentious or so, yeah. What's that all about? Wait, you're pretentious to cook pasta for what? Yeah, they're like, I just cook it by feel.
+
+[20:02] That doesn't matter. Well, I tend to disagree, but look, this is a separate subject. I tend to disagree often with the cooking times on the boxes. Stas, of course, who likes to, you know, basically crunch on raw pasta like like she's a rodent breaking into the box in the middle of the night, it also likes a less cooked pasta. True?
+
+[20:20] I like less cooked pasta. I don't know about the rodent thing. Yeah, well, she hates rodents, that's why I compare her to one. She detests all rodents. True or false?
+
+[20:27] Like you don't even like to eat rabbit because you don't like rodents. But the fact of the matter is, it's not pretentious to want your food cooked properly, Jack. Uh it's just not. It's pretentious to tell someone that their food is bad because they didn't spend a lot on it, right? That's pretentious.
+
+[20:42] Yeah. Like, or thinking that you automatically know better than somebody else because you think about it a lot. Pretentious. You know what I mean? Whatever.
+
+[20:53] You know, if someone said to me, you know what, Dave? Uh no, you know what? I actually like the tomatoes in uh the fridge because I like to go to the farmer's market and spend $4 a pound on a tomato and then convert it to texture to a bunch of mealy pulpy paste. I like it, because I like that mealy pulpy paste texture. I'd be like, Phew, alright, sweet.
+
+[21:14] Just like my grandpa used to like be able to choose. If you handed him like a nice wine and like giant jug wines, blind, he would always pick out the jug wine. Not really, I don't think because he liked it, because I think he liked being a jerk and picking out the jug wine. So he could distinguish them. So anyway, it's like if it's an actual personal preference, it's one.
+
+[21:31] If somebody's cooking for you at their house, like why are you gonna bring it to what they're like enjoy the party? Enjoy talking to people about other stuff. Why are you gonna go nitpick in their kitchen? Uh, excuse me, the presumption is not that you're sitting at a table, you walk into the kitchen as though it's a restaurant kitchen, open their fridge, and determine that they've stored their tomatoes in the fridge. It's you're cooking in the kitchen with them.
+
+[21:56] And I believe when we had the original discussion. You just see it from afar. Like you're like a tiny little apartment. How do you see into their fridge? I lived in I lived, by the way, people think back.
+
+[22:14] People, people, people, people. I lived in an 800 square foot apartment with me, my wife, my two kids, a dog, and two hamsters. We're talking like old school, like overcrowding situation, and like 10 years of crap. Recently, I moved into what would be like still a small apartment anywhere else in the world, but a relatively large apartment for Manhattan. Yeah, but you still couldn't see into your fridge in the old apartment from the table.
+
+[22:42] So I'm saying like apartments where the table is like. You can't ever see into the fridge when you're sitting at the table. Maybe there's one seat, and you could see into it from the table where I was. Where have you been? I mean, where have I been?
+
+[22:53] All my friends' apartments. The living room is the kitchen. Jack. Yeah. Jack.
+
+[22:58] Let me ask you a question. Is your fridge oriented in such a way that when you go in? So if someone's sitting and actually having a leisurely conversation, this is stuff this is classic Nastasha just coming up with BS argument. Or that I have that have refrigerators in the same room where the table is. I I defy you to go into your fridge the next time you have people over, get casually get something out of it, close it, and then ask anyone at the table what was in your fridge.
+
+[23:28] Okay. Who hadn't helped you cook, they hadn't been there, and say, hey, how much milk do I have in my fridge? Oh yeah, geez, I have no idea because I'm not looking in your fridge. I'm having a casual conversation with my friends, not about food or being nitpicking. Boom!
+
+[23:43] Boom. Stas actually lives in her fridge, so she's got a little bit of a different kind of a situation. Uh okay. Uh Josh writes in from Antigua. He doesn't think, you know, it's like the point is also, and you try to make it you whenever we have an argument like this, you try to make it into meat, you always bend it towards me doing something jerky.
+
+[24:05] If someone is cooking tomatoes for your meal and they've already ruined them, then yes, you don't say anything because you don't want to point out that they've ruined something that they're gonna serve you because hopefully they're proud and happy to serve you food. If the tomatoes are in the fridge and they're incidental and they're not being cooked, that is when it's okay to talk to them about it. You don't tell someone ever that something that they're serving you is bad or degraded or inferior in any way because that is jerky. Okay. I'm over.
+
+[24:33] You're over what? I'm like, I'm not angry. Uh yeah, I'm angry because you're purposely trying to get me angry by trying to make you angry. Yeah, people you have no. You can't have a conversation unless you win.
+
+[24:43] What? No, I have look. When I'm wrong, what do I say? Barely anything. Say I'm wrong.
+
+[24:44] Okay. You're never wrong, though. I can't think of a time when you're wrong. Hey, you said it, not me. I say it all the time.
+
+[24:58] In fact, like my favorite times are when I'm dead wrong about cooking, recipes, anything. You know why? Because being wrong is the only way you really learn. Uh we learned here to keep those tomatoes out of the fridge. Just keep them out of the damn fridge.
+
+[25:15] I mean, look. Whatever, I don't know if you get into it. Look, a tomato that, like, certain tomatoes can withstand it much better than others. Those little grape tomatoes are fine. You know what I mean?
+
+[25:26] Uh, but here's the other thing, Stas. Like, who has a like a ton of extra room? If you actually cook, you don't have a lot of room in your fridge anyway. Fridge is always full of stuff if you actually cook, like leftovers, ingredients, all this other stuff. So really anything you can leave out of your fridge is a bonus because fridge space is extremely limited.
+
+[25:47] So it's counter space, though. Well, but you're cooking, it's food, presumably. And once something's shoved into the fridge and you jam it in, you're much more likely to have it spoil and go bad because you don't even see it. I cook with things because I know that I own them. That's why I hate it when people come to my house and wrap stuff in aluminum foil and put it in my fridge, because you might as well just throw it away.
+
+[26:05] If you wrap something in aluminum foil and put it in my fridge, throw that thing away. Because I don't know what's in there. I don't know what's in that aluminum foil. Do you think that the people who come over and they put the stuff away after dinner, you think they label that crap? No.
+
+[26:16] You know what I mean? Do you use aluminum foil for wrapping? Yeah, but we usually know what's in there and we cook it in the next frill break. I have like four people in my house, and it's very hard to keep track of all the stuff that's in there, and like a lot of times I'm having seven, eight, nine people over with like tons of dishes, and they get put away. So in my house, if it goes in there with aluminum foil, it it's done.
+
+[26:36] You know, um that's why like I, you know, I I much prefer like uh quartz and pints because they're like in the eight ounces, like you keep them, they stack really easily for your small. Apparently, you know, I no longer know what it's like to be in a small kitchen. But like uh, but like they stack very well and they uh they take up less space in the fridge and they're completely reusable and microwaveable, although the lids are not. Do you use those things in your house? Mm-hmm.
+
+[27:00] They're good, right? Do you have all three sizes? No. Just quartz? Or just pints?
+
+[27:06] Like, yeah, just quartz. Yeah, I have all three. But uh I was brought to my attention recently that in like places like San Francisco, very few people use them because they perceive them as un-green, I guess because they're plastic. Do you think they perceive them as un-green if we if they knew that they were used over and over and over and over again? I don't know.
+
+[27:24] I mean, do you perceive them as ungreen? I never thought about it. What about you, Jack? You're a relatively green guy. What are your thoughts on the core containers?
+
+[27:31] That's green enough for me. Yeah? Yeah, I use them. Yeah, I love them. And all like, but uh they like outside of New York, a lot of times you don't, or you know, like you like San Francisco, I had a lot of problems, like people telling me that they wouldn't use them.
+
+[27:43] What's that? I mean, like, I use them, especially if I get like, you know, some kind of soup delivered, maybe like some Chinese soup, and you use that same quart container and use it for other leftovers. Yeah, yeah. That's green. All the time.
+
+[27:53] Yeah, well, but uh, but we buy them, and you know, like they get many, many, many uses unless they break or something bad happens to them and they're polypropylene. They can be recycled, whatever. Uh Josh writes in from Antigua. Uh, thanks for your help with my previous question on lobster cookery. I was wondering if you learned anything new about dry lupini beans, as I still have a bunch taking up room in my larder.
+
+[28:13] And next to those beans are a few bags of quinoa. Do you like quinoa sauce? You cook it? No. What about you, Jack?
+
+[28:20] Well, you know, what I've been hearing is that we there are some other better local grains we could be using than quinoa. Well, are you upset because the the the like there was the rush on the quinoa and then the people who used to use it for sustenance couldn't afford it anymore? Right. Yeah. This is the problem always with things like this is that it's like, you know, there's people with nothing, and then all of a sudden somebody wants it, and then a couple of people get something who used to have nothing, and then a bunch of people get shafted.
+
+[28:46] Like it's a lot of like like no-win situations. But us let's presume that you can grow quinoa, you know. Let's let's presume that like you know, you're growing it in America or whatever, right? I mean, if you like the flavor of it. I I like it, but I haven't cooked it that much.
+
+[29:00] We puffed it in the puffing gun. I would imagine that Stas wouldn't like it that much because it's got that weird curly cue look on it. And the curly cue is not your style. It's not. You know, I mean, like I I know you well enough to know even because we've never discussed it before, but that curly cue, and for me, it's reminiscent of a sprout curly cue.
+
+[29:19] It doesn't taste anything like a sprout, but visually it reminds me of sprouts. Uh, and as we all know, I hate sprouts. Uh except except cooked mongue bean sprouts. Okay, so the um unfortunately uh the quinoa uh hasn't been used because I find that no matter how much I rinse the grains, I always have several bites of cooked quinoa that contain grit. I am new to cooking it.
+
+[29:41] Is there something I can do to fix it? Okay, so on the quinoa first. It's interesting. I looked up um a bunch of references because I've only cooked it a couple times, did not have that problem. Uh but there are tons of references uh on online, tons of things.
+
+[29:54] For instance, www.veggieboards.com. Help me cook quinoa without the crunchy bits, which is a very long thread in 210 about it. And the solutions run the gamut from it being a brand by brand difference. Now there definitely are some brands that appear to be much worse than others. But then some people said, you know, get the uh Rob's uh whatever it's Bob's red mill stuff, right?
+
+[30:17] And then someone else is like, I've never had a grit in that one. Then someone else was like, no, I've had grit in that one, uh, back and forth. There's one person on one of these things uh who uh claimed that it's actually oxalate crystals because uh calcium oxalate, which is you know um the same stuff that kidney stones made of, uh accumulates in the leaves of uh of quinoa, and someone said that it is that, but I wasn't able to actually verify that at all. I just someone made reference to it. Um then another person said to not just rinse, but to do a wash with like a slurry, like you're rinsing rice, and then pour the quinoa uh, you know, pour the stuff off the top, and eventually after multiple rinsings, you will get uh you will enrich the quinoa layer at the top uh and the the bottom layer will contain all of the grit.
+
+[31:06] Um possible. Uh I would try uh cooking for a very long, very long time in excess water and draining and seeing if the problem goes away, because it might be possible that you're just not uh uh hydrating all of the things equally and you're having an actual piece of uncooked quinoa, which someone else suggested, but that's easy to test because if you just cook in excess water, then you're gonna uh you're gonna find out whether you were having a lack of hydration and you're getting crunchy uncooked quinoa, or whether or not you actually have excess grit. Um so, anywho, uh, you know, and the problem with rinsing it out, obviously, is that the grains are so freaking small that it's hard to rinse out the grit because how you gonna you can't like have it just fall through, right, Styles? So this other person, uh Geo Cook in one of the things, uh, he he or she actually gold panned it because they're a gold paner, so they sat there and gold pan the quinoa so that all the grit would fall to the bottom. So I saw I couldn't be more help on that.
+
+[32:03] But on the lupini beans, so lupini beans uh contain uh toxins, uh bitter alkaloid toxins that you need to uh leach out. Uh and the fact of the matter is is that they make ones that are sweet that don't have the alkaloids, but apparently people who like the lupini beans, uh do you like lupini beans? You ever eat those things? Well, they usually serve them like cold, like in a pickle or in vinegar, like on the table in oil. Uh anyway.
+
+[32:27] So uh so the steps, and I've looked up a bunch of the things, you really don't want to take any shortcuts on it, and I've tried desperately to look for shortcuts on it. Uh, and I haven't done it myself, but I plan on doing it because I want to try it. Is you you soak the beans overnight in uh in uh excess water, right? And so what you're doing here is uh partially hydrating the beans, just like you would soaking a bean for cooking. Then you dump that water, and then you cook it in water, right?
+
+[32:57] Uh, and they say uh with salt. Now the cooking here is uh softening uh the bean, cooking it so that water can get in and out of it, and leaching out some of the evil poisons. Then you keep, you drain them, put them back in water, and then change the water a bunch of times to slowly over the co course of uh days uh and days, uh could be like a week or more, uh, in water to leech out the alkaloids, and then you can literally just taste them, and when they're no longer bitter, or when they're bitter to your preference, then uh you you pull them out and you and you do whatever you you want with them. But that's that's how you do them. I want to try it.
+
+[33:29] I kinda wanna try it. But that's how that's how that's how you do. But I it's kind of unbelievable to me that they sell them uh and with like no warning on them that you can't just cook this like a bean. But the good news is is that the reason you don't have too much Lupini bean poisoning is that uh apparently if you don't treat them right, they're horribly bitter. So it's not like you would be like, man, there's delicious.
+
+[33:58] I'm gonna eat a whole bunch of this and then die from the die from the poison. Although there there have been cases of uh people who uh were hospitalized due to uh lupini toxicity. Yeah? Yeah. Okay.
+
+[34:08] Hey Dave, we had something really quick come in. Yeah, what's that? About kind of t uh, you know, apps and and techie stuff for food. Uh uh people at TechServe showed us they've got a chef stand for the iPad and this eye grill thing where like you can connect via Bluetooth and see what temperature something's cooking in from another room. Do you have any other sort of like techie apps like that that you like look like using in the kitchen?
+
+[34:30] I use the internets. Yeah. Uh no, I don't know. I don't really know. I mean, I use uh I haven't used any like the digital thermometers.
+
+[34:38] I occasionally use like the Sous V Dash, the one the poly science and those guys uh did together with um with those, but no, I don't I mean I use I use like decent calculators, you know, like pretty decent calculators when I'm doing calculations for things. And I have my own stuff that I've written when I'm when I'm doing uh recipe development, but that's more on a computer, not on an iPad. But I'll think about it. No apps. No, no apps.
+
+[35:02] Uh look, I'll think about it. All right. I'll think about it. Hey, you want to go to a super quick break so we can do that thing before we have to go? Yeah, let's do it.
+
+[35:07] All right. And we're back. I thought you were going to do the thing. Yeah, we're gonna play one right now. It's kind of cheeky.
+
+[35:50] It's called Field of Compost Dreams. And it's a short little news report from Heritage Radio. In Tabbertin.com. HeritageRadio Network.org. Business.
+
+[36:02] Two thousand thirteen was a pretty good year for recycling legislation in New York City. The New York City Council approved legislation banning food service expanded polystreens or EPS or styrofoam. And also approved a bill that would require large restaurants and food manufacturers to compost. That's right. Require large restaurants and food manufacturers in New York City to compost.
+
+[36:23] Sound too good to be true? Well, that's pretty much the case. Our recycling expert and founder of Plastic Bag Laws.com, Jenny Romer, explains the piece of legislation. Commercial composting legislation requires that all large restaurants and food manufacturers compost. And that doesn't take effect until the commissioner finds that there are enough facilities within 100 miles of New York City that will cost effectively take composting.
+
+[36:54] So what that means is the city will force these food establishments to compost when they have somewhere to send the compost to. Makes sense? It's a field of dreams type thing where if you build it, they will come. It's creating a market for compost. Because right now there are companies that make these kind of facilities that aren't going to build them near New York City if there's no market for compost.
+
+[37:17] But if there's a market developed, then they'll create them and then restaurants will have somewhere local or somewhat local within the region to actually compare. Yeah, and so you get like these like curated little thingamajigs, right? On various subjects. By the way, I don't know this, so I'm testing stuff not the the not the process, the word compost, give me some thoughts. It's okay.
+
+[37:43] It's okay. Even though it's like says like compost. Yeah. Alright. Interesting.
+
+[37:48] Uh and so what was her plastic bag thing, by the way? Because as you know, I'm trying to kick the habit. I'm uh I'm Oh, are you? Yeah, yeah. Yeah, it's a whole other piece we did.
+
+[37:55] She runs plasticbaglaws.org pushing for plastic la uh bags to be banned in New York City. Um I think what what's gonna happen first would be like a ten cent surcharge to the place, you know, using the plastic bags. So I I I think that would actually get passed on to you. So if you buy something at a bodega, it would be ten cents more for the bigger bigger. Right.
+
+[38:15] Yeah. But I mean, you know, who needs plastic bags? Well, I mean, I'm trying to kick it. So, like, you know, like uh places that encourage you to have your own bags, right? It's easy to uh not to not use them because they push it.
+
+[38:29] Some places like they auto put them into bags, like you know, my local fine fare um supermarket. Um but you know, the other issue is on plastic in general for this kind of stuff, uh like it's very difficult to put your house waste like I'm in an apartment, I have to use these small bags because they things have to fit in my trash chute. And uh what you look up is it's the supply of actual, for instance, completely compostable bags to use as trash bags at home, minimal. You know what I mean? It's like the stuff that they're selling, and that's why I don't even know whether the poop bags I use for the dog, like what like how like real because a lot of these guys they what they do is they make plastic that just breaks up into smaller pieces over time, doesn't really go away, it just turns into like plastic dust, which isn't the same thing as actually going back to the earth.
+
+[39:22] You know, it's that it it's it's a difficult problem because we haven't like none of our systems are developed to um to completely do away with uh with the bags, and sometimes um you know, especially when you're sh you know shopping large quantities, I don't carry those damn carts around me. I hate those freaking things. You know what I mean? Like I'd much rather, and if you've ever seen me shop, I'll carry like 15 heavy bags home and look like I'm lumbering like an elephant home rather than push one of those damn carts. Are you a cart lady?
+
+[39:52] No. What about you, Jack? You a cartman? No cart. Um, you know, 15 bags.
+
+[39:56] I actually like that, you know. Right. How many can I carry? Right. But the issue there is sometimes you don't know how much you're gonna shop for.
+
+[40:02] So like I always said my my actual shoulder bag is quite large. So like I can and I can unflap one of the flaps and turn it into a massive tent to tent stuff underneath it. But if all of a sudden you go over that and the place doesn't carry paper that's decent, then you're in plastic land again. Or if um, you know, like uh you know, Whole Foods, they'll put stuff in paper for you, but you better hope it doesn't rain on the way home. Oh, that's happened to me, yeah.
+
+[40:29] It's bad. Your host. Because what are you gonna do when 'cause I walk home, right? Which is green, or walk or bike home, but then if something rips when you're on a walk, you're done. It's it.
+
+[40:39] You know what I mean? Uh so of course plastic rips often as well, but so Dave, I've got two callers. Let's take the first one first. Alrighty caller, you're on the air. Hey David Nathan from uh Virginia.
+
+[40:50] Hey, how you doing? Good. Um I had a question about uh articles, academic food articles. You mentioned them a lot and I was wondering if you could point uh us to place to look them up. Okay, so here's the problem.
+
+[41:03] Uh m most of the uh scholarly articles online uh are you have to have like a username and password you have to be associated with a university. Okay. Uh I st I may or may not poach somebody else's access to uh a university server to get on it. Uh a lot of what I I use uh primarily I use the search engine called Science Direct which is um um a compilation of El Sevier or uh El Sev I can't put El Sevier j journals but they have a lot of them or I'll use uh some like Wiley or I used to use Blackwell Synergy a lot and they're they're large aggregators of journal uh files and then if you're in a university setting you can also usually do cross database searches for particular things. So it allows you to hone in very quickly on it and then the the really great thing about these sites, because they're built for researchers is that you can cross ref, cross ref.
+
+[42:02] You you know, you can look at their references and sometimes just link through directly. Sometimes, if you have a really good public library, they'll have access to it uh in-house, but they won't let you do it at home because they're all paid service. So some of these things, for instance, in New York, I can get at the NYPL, uh New York Public Library. But you know, s some you can't. But what I recommend is finding a friend, acquaintance, or uh relative who is a professor at a major university, and beg, borrow, and steal from them their online access codes to get into the uh servers.
+
+[42:41] And then you can get all all this stuff. Awesome. Okay, thanks. Hopefully I wasn't giving away to my my uh getting my my connection in trouble. That's why I didn't mention who it is.
+
+[42:51] Caller number two. Caller, you're on the air. Uh yes, I've I've been doing some sous vide, and I've gotten one inch pork chops, put them into a vacuum bag with prunes and dried prunes and dried apricots a hundred and forty-five degrees for six hours. The prunes are wonderful. They're nice and soft and mushy.
+
+[43:13] I bet. Apricots are not. Huh. Why is that? And they're both they're both how is the pork?
+
+[43:22] Oh, the pork's great. Oh, good. Uh huh. So the apricots you're saying got m got mushy and the prunes. No, the prunes got mushy, but the apricots are still, you know, very hard like they're like not tough, but you know, it's not the same mushiness that uh the prunes are.
+
+[43:41] Right. But uh what kind of uh apricots are you using, just out of curiosity. Um dried apricots. But like uh like uh like the the smaller ones or like the big flat, like the Blenheims, are the really sour ones or the not really sour ones? They're not really sour.
+
+[43:56] I guess they're probably about an inch big. Yeah, I know the ones you you can forget. Uh so my you know, my only guess is that um I think the prunes probably have a higher moisture content to begin with, and so they probably break up easier and faster. Uh and if you were to do like a light pre-boil on the apricots, they might they might uh come out, but I don't know. I'd have to run some tests.
+
+[44:21] I don't think in other words, I don't think they're being treated to um I don't think they're being treated to strengthen the pectin any, right? So you could pre-treat an apricot such that the um pectin would degrade much less over time. But at the temperatures that you're cooking, you're not really going to be degrading the pectin anyway. You're gonna be um dealing with the kind of na natural mushiness and plums, I think inherently could probably higher sugar and probably gonna be mushier, and the apric a apricots might benefit from some higher thermal temperatures like above eighty-five or so. That's really gonna break down uh Celsius, gonna break down you know, uh the structure, the pectin structure, if that's what's that's what's holding it together.
+
+[45:03] So you might try like a little pre-treatment on the uh apricot, maybe not even in like a like maybe just a little bit of water in a separate bag, you know, just simmer it for like 15-20 minutes, pull it out, and then add them to your recipe and see whether that helps, although it's an extra step. But uh step. I I've been sort of playing around with it. I've been soaking and I you know preheated some apricots, but I don't know what the sweet spot is, so I'm still trying to figure this out. And I thought I got it pre-done enough, but then my my prunes were wonderful, but my apricots were not, and my son suggested I give you a call.
+
+[45:42] And he he he thought pectin, pectin breakdown, so that probably is it. Yeah, I mean you could try to the problem is that let's say you were to cut the one of the things on the apricots that the kind that you're getting are whole apricots, right? Skin on both sides. So you might want to cut them in half such that you're have access to the center more readily, so you're not trying to rehydrate only through the skin. You could try like a pectin degrading enzyme in there, but I think it's just gonna get mushy.
+
+[46:12] I don't think it's gonna make the texture nice. I think it's just gonna like kind of create a mushy layer around the outside. That's my guess. Um when you say you pre-treated the ap the uh apricots, like what do you just like put them in like uh like boiling water for like five minutes, let them soak up like in a teacup or something like that? Yes.
+
+[46:28] Yeah, and that didn't help it? Uh it helped a little bit, but not enough. Yeah. So and I'm trying so I'm trying to determine what I really should be doing, what the sweet spot is. And they're not chopped, you leave them whole?
+
+[46:40] Um, I cut them in half. Yeah, you already cut them in half. Jeez. All right, well, you know what? Let's see whether anyone out there has any experience with this.
+
+[46:49] Uh, and then, you know, if we hear anything back on Twitter, it's so someone sends to act cooking issues on Twitter like their experience. Because a lot of times I'll get people, they listen, they have a solution, they'll they'll you know, tweet in, and then I can talk about it on on the next show. But off the top of my head, you're doing what I would do. I would pre-treat in hot water, uh, maybe even pre-cook in a bag, cut them in half. Uh, those are all good good steps.
+
+[47:13] You know what you could do that's not that uh hard is put uh cut them in half, put them in the vac bag, right? That you're gonna use for the uh for the pork with a little bit of liquid. Remember, it doesn't there's not gonna break down that well without liquid to help break down the pectin. It takes a much higher temperature to break down the structure of the uh apricot when it's dry than when it's moist. So you whatever liquid you're gonna put in the bag, which shouldn't be too much because it's gonna taste poach, but put them in just with the apricots into the bag, and then immerse the bag in simmering water.
+
+[47:46] Just make sure you don't melt it, right? You can do a light seal on it, whatever, and then just cut open that first seal after it cools down, just cut open that first seal and then put your pork and prunes directly into the bag with the apricots. You don't have to futz around with a bunch of different bags. Vac and reseal and then cook that. Sounds good.
+
+[48:02] I will try it. Alright, and then uh if you can tweet to at cooking issues and tell me what the results were so I can figure out whether any of this stuff works. Okay, terrific. We'll do. Thanks a lot.
+
+[48:11] Thank you. So, Paul, quickly, Paul Paul wrote in and said, Hey, I was thinking about getting myself a second copy of uh Harold McGee's The Curious Cook, but saw two different looking versions on Amazon, Amazon UK actually. Uh uh see the screenshot below. Do you know if they're actually the same and if they're different, which would you recommend? Thanks, Paul.
+
+[48:29] I was gonna get uh Harold to come on, but he couldn't. He's in meetings all morning to say it. But one says, The Curious Cook taking the lid off kitchen facts and fallacies. Uh and that one has a non standard cover on it, and that one's from 1992. The original, The Curious Cook More Kitchen Science and Lore by Harold McGee, November 1990, is the only one I own.
+
+[48:50] That's the original. The other one's probably a British uh kind of uh uh printing of it that was done a couple years after the original. I'm gonna try to uh ask Harold exactly what the difference is between them, but I would go for the good old fashioned, honest to good one that's just the black cover with the yellow thing that says the curious cook. More kitchen and science lore. That's the one I would go with.
+
+[49:12] Uh are they gonna they're gonna cut us off? We got a second. Yep, we're cutting you off. Alright, William McGee, not the other. Diver McGee, I'm gonna get your French fry stuff.
+
+[49:19] And Rodney, I'm gonna get your coconut flower next time. Cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio.
+
+[49:47] You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening to the
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Heritage Foods USA, the nation's largest distributor of heritage breed pigs and turkeys. For more information, visit Heritage Foods USA dot com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Hello, and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:29] This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn on the Heritage Radio Network, every Tuesday from roughly twelve to roughly twelve forty-five. Call in your questions to 7184972128. That's 718497-2128. Joined in the studio with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. How are you doing?
+
+[0:49] Good. Jack, the headphones are really loud. Well Maybe just yours. Oh, actually I'm not, I think mine are too, but normally I don't complain. I just suck it up.
+
+[0:58] I just suck it up. I wonder who was here before you. Someone Someone who's deep? Is that better, guys? Yeah.
+
+[1:04] So listen, uh, Jack, you uh well, you don't are not from Brooklyn anymore, but you still you know the Bushwick news, right? So uh I'm I asked. Oh the chickens? Yeah, so here's the thing. I want you guys to know Heritage Heritage uh Meets, whose offices are right here in Bushwick over on Siegel Street, not involved with the largest cockfighting ring in New York history that was just broken up, uh was it yesterday, the day before you read about this does?
+
+[1:28] They uh the biggest cock writing thing what do you know about it, Jack? I mean, I used to live near some of those places, so I'd see all the live poultry markets kind of walk by, but I didn't realize those live poultry markets were also, you know, underground cockfighting rings. Yeah, yeah. And they they busted a farm in upstate. Oof.
+
+[1:45] And you know, that was uh that was a uh a component of the farm bill that passed, actually, included some some language and legislation on uh being tougher on on animal fighting circuits. So maybe that has something to do with that. Really? I I didn't I did not know that. Yeah.
+
+[2:01] Do you have do we have any good uh references for people to go to on our website for uh our feelings as a as a network on uh the farm bill and what's going on? Absolutely. Yeah. Uh tomorrow on our front page we're gonna run a piece that has opinions from Marion Nessel, uh, Michel Nishon, the folks over at Just Food and a few others. So we kind of sourced a whole bunch of opinions and broke down the farm bill.
+
+[2:24] So check the home page tomorrow. That would be Wednesday. Nice. February twelfth. Nice, good leading.
+
+[2:30] Am I right? Yeah, nice. Nice strong. Okay, uh so we had a question in on the Twitter from uh Matt Schuster saying, uh at Cooking Users, hey Dave, any suggestions for a food dehydrator with a timer for a small fifty-seat restaurant. I want to de-moist things.
+
+[2:48] Well, okay. Uh I don't really have any like m the one I use, I use almost exclusively is uh the Xcaliber, uh which, you know, uh m most restaurant folks that I kn know also use the X caliber. But the question is, how much stuff are you gonna dehydrate uh and and on what kind of a consistent basis? Now the Xcaliber doesn't have a timer on it, but like I say, I haven't used ones with a timer. My main experience comes from either using the Xcaliber or the crappy round ones.
+
+[3:19] Now the Excalibur just beats the pants off of the crappy round ones. Uh and the reason is because it can hold a lot more than the crappy round ones can. And because the way the airflow works in it, it's not coming up through the center, it's kind of passed along all the racks from the back, it's a lot more even rack to rack. But and and the Excalibur is good because it's relatively small for the amount of stuff it can dehydrate. So you know you can dehydrate you know a in the small excaliber, which is when I have you can dehydrate like two pounds of pasta, right?
+
+[3:50] In in one go, uh or you know things like that. Now back w the the kind of kings and queens of dehydration that I have met are the folks at uh pure uh at Pure Food uh and wine, Sarma Mel and Gaius's joint. Uh and back in the day they used to run did you visit that kitchen with me, Stuzz? No. They r they ran the entire kitchen was it was like a library of excaliburs, like excaliburs stocked on X calibers, like w like whole walls of excaliburs.
+
+[4:21] And that I was joking with her when I visited years ago that it was the hottest kitchen I had ever been in in my life, even though it was like raw raw cooking and they didn't have anything because of all those freegan dehydrators running all the time. Excalibur I believe I haven't had time to check it because I just got the tweet in, but Excalibur makes a uh much larger uh version now. Uh and I know some people that have used the Cabela's the Cabela's uh dehydrator, you know, Cabela's the folks that uh you know they sell outdoor gear. Although I hear that I I've never been to a Cabela store. I hear that they that they used to be like the life changing sports store, but now Stas has a new one that we need to go to what's it called?
+
+[4:56] Big bass fishing or something's like in the most amazing store you've ever been in, right? The one in Foxboro. Where's Foxboro? In the stadium, Gillette Stadium. Where what state?
+
+[5:06] Massachusetts. Massachusetts, yeah. And you said it was like the greatest store you've ever visited in your life, right? It is. It had like what what it had that you could get mauled by a bear or something if you wanted it or something.
+
+[5:15] They had shooting, fishing. They had shooting in the store. But w one of those like where you hit the target with the with the not the crappy ones from the uh from the carnival where you they shoot all in different directions and you can't actually knock the star out. No. This was yeah, it was really cool.
+
+[5:31] I took Booker and Dax uh last summer to one of those things and they had to try they wanted to try and shoot that pellet. You know those horrible pellet guns at the Carney things? And like there's one little bit of star left and they don't get the prize. I'm like, kids, that's how it works. You're not supposed to win.
+
+[5:44] This is like learn like kids don't learn. I I still have a twins that I want to do those kinds of things. Did you used to play carnival games as a kid? Because your parents didn't let you, or because you just like even back then, you're like, I hate the garnival games. I don't know, I just never did.
+
+[5:57] No? So anyway, so uh ask yourself why you need uh Matt a timer on your uh dehydrator. Here's what I typically do when I'm dehydrating. And um I'm sorry that my my uh recommendations can't I don't have any personal use of larger ones. You know what I always want to do for really large stuff?
+
+[6:17] Now 5060 seats if you're only doing a couple garnishes, excalibur is great. And then even up to the point of buying two excaliburs, I would do it that way, and here's why. You can have two different excaliburs set to two different drying regimens, uh, and you don't then need to um the brain just turned off. Isn't that crazy? Yeah, that happens sometimes, huh?
+
+[6:35] The brain off. You don't need uh to worry about whether or not two things are different. You can have two things that want to go at different temperatures going at the same time if you just have two excaliburs. Um I've always wanted to someone to do large scale stuff, and I believe the guys uh at uh Pure Food did this. Also Feel Food, uh, you know, Galen and Fernando's place down uh that we did that event at they had uh they have like a bunch of dehydrators.
+
+[6:59] I think they had the larger excaliburs, right? Did you notice back in the kitchen? Yeah. Um, so the what I would do is get a couple of those. When you're using a dehydrator, I don't know that a timer is strictly speaking so necessary.
+
+[7:12] What I tend to do is I start my dehydrators fairly high because uh there's a huge temperature gradient that forms as you 'cause as you're evaporating liquid off of your foods at the get go when they're still fairly high water, uh, you get a lot of evaporative cooling around the surface of your product. And so to speed dehydration, I always start the dehydrator uh at a higher uh temperature. And then I turn it down. So a lot of times when I'm doing puff snacks, uh the main problem is you don't want to over dehydrate because then you don't have enough moisture left in the in the stuff to puff properly. So what I'll do is is I'll I'll jack it to like a hundred and thirty-five, uh, which I don't know what that is in Celsius, but like 135 Fahrenheit uh for a couple of hours, and then I'll just turn it down to low, down to like a hundred or something like this, uh, and then let it ride overnight.
+
+[8:01] Now when the fans are going, it's not gonna pick up a lot of moisture unless it's extremely humid in your kitchen. And it'll slowly equilibrate and come down. And then in the morning, if it's still a little bit too soft, it won't be too dry at this point, but if it's still a little bit too soft, then I can jack the temperature for another hour or so. But I just leave them running on low overnight, is typically what I do. But you have to really low so you don't uh overdry uh your products.
+
+[8:24] If you wanted a project, the Excalibur is a fairly good case, except the plastic on it tends to break, is the only issue with it. You could put a PID on it. I've never done it, but you could get uh uh like you could get some way of measuring humidity at those low temperatures and kind of measure the humidity in the box, or maybe even uh if possible, you could I guess do it on liquid and then drive it with uh with a PID controller so that it would ramp itself down. I haven't done it, uh, but it's technically feasible, and I'd say you could probably do it for under 200 bucks, uh, even with the weird stuff you'd be measuring. Uh trivially less if you just want to put it on a a timer and ramp soak, you can go to uh Albert Instruments or anything like that and buy a uh a controller that you could put on a timer and ramp soak the temperature uh if you didn't care about external measurements, and that would be a trivial problem.
+
+[9:10] That would cost you like on the order of like 45 bucks to do. And you know, if you've never done one before, it would take you probably a couple hours to figure it out. But I always wanted to do that with a bread with a bread proofer. We were gonna do that. Remember years ago we were gonna do that?
+
+[9:22] We never did it. We're gonna convert a giant bread proofer into a dehydrator. I think someone probably does that commercially because it's a good idea and it makes sense. Anyway, uh so much for dehydrators. I was doing a bunch of what was I doing on my dehydrator?
+
+[9:33] Bell pasta recently I was doing. Yeah. Hey, we got a caller. Caller, you're on the air. Hi, Dave, Nastasha, Jack, everyone, it's Brian.
+
+[9:41] How you doing? Doing well. Yourself? Good. Um, so two things.
+
+[9:47] One is I have a question about uh bread, but uh first is that uh never heard heard the final answer about making my own koji from the uh the other week. I know, dude. I have not gotten a hold of Ryan yet, is the reason why you haven't gotten the information yet. I need to get a hold of those guys. I've like they've been kind th they haven't been MIA, I've been MIA, which is why you don't have the final answer yet.
+
+[10:10] So we'll start with the other one, and I still owe you that answer. Well, thank you very much. Uh I'll hold on for that. Um but this one has to do with with with bread baking at home. So um I don't have a deck oven uh here, you know, so um I have no possibility of um, you know, injecting steam into into into my oven, you know, through the oven it itself.
+
+[10:32] And so my question is, you know, I've been doing a little bit of reading and I'm looking at uh a couple different books, and one is uh the tartine bread book, which says um uh they they use a um a combo cooker uh it's kind of like a Dutch oven basically um in which the kind of the smaller part um they they kind of bake essentially on the lid um so it's basically like a a Dutch oven um as a way of kind of capturing the steam and then the other one You mean like like la like Leahy style? Lake Leahy style exactly all right so uh except that if you use what's called a combo cooker it makes it easier to to to not burn yourself. Um and then the other other thing and they're made by loads by the way and then the other thing I'm looking at is the Bouchon Bakery um uh a cookbook from um Thomas Keller and Sebastian Ruxell and they're saying basically um take a ridiculous amount of um river stones and chain and put it in in the in the bottom of the of the oven as a way of of catching all the heat and then take a super soaker and inject a huge amount of water into the oven so it all kind of uh turns to turns to steam and I'm kind of wondering what's the best way to get steam into the oven. Which of these two methods would be most effective for bread baking. Okay now your oven is under fired gas oven?
+
+[12:02] Yeah. Okay. It's a standard standard home gas oven. Right but the the heat comes from then from below. Correct.
+
+[12:09] Yeah because you can't pull that like if you have like a an electric oven with uh upper elements and stuff like that you can't pull that lower chain the reason that the chains and whatnot on the bottom of the oven is because that's where the heat is most intense. So that's like an old school uh, you know, bread baker's way to kind of um you know, do you know, clutch uh having not having, you know, real steam injection. And it works the way that it obviously sounds it's gonna work, by um literally you s you put a bunch of you know, st stuff in the bottom with thermal mass, let it heat up, right? And then and the the use I look stones I'd be a little bit wary of because I everyone says like river stones aren't gonna break. I've put stones that I thought were pretty smooth in fires and had them blow up before.
+
+[12:54] Now the ovens probably maybe not be violent enough to blow a stone apart, but I don't know. You know what I'm saying? Uh you know, I've I've put I've put many stones on fires before for various reasons and had them explode, kind of expectacularly explode. Now it's inside of an oven, but you wouldn't want to be lowering your oven and putting your face in there when you're loading something to you know, just to have something explode on you, you know what I mean? Um so I don't know.
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+[13:24] I think that's the super soaker where you could do it from a distance. Yeah, oh yeah, good idea, super soaker. I forgot super so when you said super soaker, you know I was in my head I was thinking spray bottle because that's what I'm used to. Uh so super soaker, interesting. My my kids would love it if I had to bring a super soaker home to cook with.
+
+[13:39] They would absolutely love it. Um but the um so I mean that works, right? Um the you know, I've never done a lot of the like Leahy style, by the way, that thing you call a combo cooker, is that like their camp oven? Is that the Loge camp oven? Like their old school Dutch camp oven.
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+[13:59] So basically it's um it it's got uh like what the lid would have a handle and I think you can cook on it separately. It's kind of like the lid would be the skillet and then you put the the pot kind of right over it is is the is the technique. Yeah. Um in in in this case. Oh inverted.
+
+[14:17] Inverted, yeah. Gotcha. You're not having to like try to jam the your dough into a hot Dutch oven. Yeah, I think that's like the old camp cookers that you could flip the lids on and do stuff like that. They're pretty cool.
+
+[14:30] Is do you like it? I don't have one. I'm I'm trying to figure out whether or not I should get one or if um you know I should go with the with the the Bouchon method. Well do you like the leahy st it do you like that Leahy style, like the no need kind of very loose like uh large internal or regular bubble stuff cooked in a Dutch oven. Do you like it?
+
+[14:52] Um I've I've tried it in a in a Dutch oven at a friend's house and the dough and it tasted fine but the problem is is you gotta shape it into a bowl. Yeah. Right. So you can't have other shapes of bread. Well I mean that dough so loose anyway that you're gonna ha it's gonna be problematic I think to do I mean at least the recipes of it I've tried is very loose.
+
+[15:12] I would try that the But it doesn't matter what you know what the what the dough is necessarily. It's a I guess my question has to do with the method. Right. And and and I guess the other problem with that is that you know does it in addition to what it does in terms of capturing steam, how does it change the temperature of of the bread? Because then you have this kind of radiating heat source around around the bread in addition to the oven.
+
+[15:38] Right. Well I mean I think of it mainly I I haven't thought about the second aspect of it. I've really sp spent most of my kind of the mental energy on thinking about those things about the actual ability of the closed but still vented container to deliver steam to the crust over the initial portion of the bacon before the initial dehydration hits it, right? Right. Um and look it's effective I look I I tend to, you know you know, when I was doing it, I used I didn't use river stones.
+
+[16:09] I had a lot of masonry at the bottom of my oven and I would throw water on it to cause kind of you know violent steam eruptions whenever you know when when I loaded and when I when I didn't and I always had good luck with doing it that way. Uh I never did the chains because I had a lot of masonry. The reason why a lot of people don't recommend and this is the you know the flip side putting a lot of masonry or you know uh or stones or chains or stuff in chains aren't going to affect the thermal mass of your oven as much because metal heats up fairly quickly. Uh but you know in the my the the first one I did which had a boatload of fire brick in it, it would take uh like an hour and a half to heat up all the way. You know what I mean?
+
+[16:51] And you know I solved that in the last oven. I haven't modified my current well I did a little bit but I haven't fully modified my current oven. In my last modified oven I did that I put uh secondary heating elements into into my s into my oven and the secondary heating elements allowed me to heat up a mass of masonry fairly fairly quickly. Uh it which now I'm thinking I'm using less masonry as well more nimbly with with the heating elements in it. So you know if you could get away if you like the results by doing the kind of chain uh and steam method the thing I like about that is it g leaves you a lot more open with loading your oven and futzing around because you're not worried about having to fit inside of some sort of Dutch oven or or skillet thing.
+
+[17:40] You can just have your stone or if you're a a steel person if you if you you know buy the modernist uh uh cooking story and switch to steel instead of stone for your your bottom it gives you much more uh ability to load things in different ways that make sense yeah yeah I mean it just uh it it enables you to to make different shapes I can make baguettes and and things that doesn't have to be round and fit into the into the into the Dutch oven. But as far as steam injection you're not sure which is going to be most effective. No kind of stimulating that okay no but you know look I've had some people say to me hey you know the steam dissipates very quickly when you just put steam in the you know the other thing people used to do is they'd load ice cubes in uh on sheet trays right on the bottom of the hot oven and then they would vaporize fairly quickly because a lot of people complain that the a toss of water on the steam dissipates so quickly that you're not getting the full effect that you would want. That's the argument for the Dutch oven being the better technology because it's going to contain more steam around the bread longer than just throwing the thing in. And that's why some people used to do like kind of ice cubes on the bottom instead of um instead of water because it was guaranteeing like a longer delivery of uh moisture to the to the to the product.
+
+[18:54] I don't necessarily know I believe that I'll tell you what I'm actually gonna do uh but I don't know how how you know much you're allowed to mod up modify your oven. I'm I'm planning on getting um like uh uh there's a most ovens on the side where the control stuff is have a place uh where you can drill a small hole and I'm gonna I was gonna drill a small hole in into it and then uh have a copper tube feeding up out of it with uh uh like a bottle that you could set like an IV drip and just have it drip uh water in and you could change whatever rate you want and actually add water to the oven with the door closed. And that's what I'm gonna do uh you know fairly soon. Like the my just handed my book manuscript in again, the the copy written, so I have a little more time, so hopefully I'm gonna do that in the next couple of weeks. The other thing, have you bought for for loading, have you bought a super peel yet?
+
+[19:47] No, I haven't. You've seen it though? I've seen it. It's like uh you kind of pull it and then the um the canvas kind of rolls down. Yeah, it's freaking awesome.
+
+[19:57] I I haven't got a chance to use it that much, but it's freaking awesome. I got I bought it for my for my kids' birthday party when I was gonna do a bunch of pizza and uh Dag Nabit, it's like I used to style, do you ever do that kind of baking bread and that kind of stuff? I like detest loading stuff off and on peels. So much so that when I used to do pizza, I would make the pizzas on uh parchment paper and then cut the parchment paper out and then just load all of my racks with uh with uh pizza loaded on parchment and then cook them on the parchment paper because it's so easy to load parchment off and on. But the super peel, I like it so far.
+
+[20:33] Check it out. Um it sounds like it's probably really good for really flat dose. Oh yeah. I mean, you because you're not touching, you're not moving it around. If you look, if you've done it done any bread loading on peels before, put the pros always make it look easy, but I don't bake bread that often, you know, and I hate having to to shake it, and then I hate over over, you know, uh overflowering or over whatever you add, whatever your you know proclivities are.
+
+[20:56] On the bottom. On the bottom, I hate that. And then you get that little extra crap of like, you know, either flowery or like burn on the butt. I hate it. You know what I mean?
+
+[21:03] I hate it. And I I hate the thought of it sticking. I hate sitting down there and and scootying around with it near my oven. I hate it. I hate it all.
+
+[21:10] But the super peel, uh, you know, that's a pretty cool little uh piece of uh kit. You can get it on Amazon now by the way. Yeah. Look into it. What do you think about those baking steals that modernist cuisine recommends?
+
+[21:22] You think that just getting the river rocks and uh and the um and the chain is is just as good well the the the River Rocks and the chain is not to bake right on top of. That's for literally just for the steam aspect of it. Right? So it's not meant to replace uh it's not meant to replace the way in which uh heat energy is delivered to the bottom of the crust uh on and you know on initial bake in um in breads. And so the old school way of doing it which was based literally on trying to convert your oven into an you know an old masonry oven you know so if you go and you read like the bread builders by um oh my gosh it's by uh Dove and Wing Scott I think I for I forget the names of the authors, but the bread builders which was one of the first, you know, you know decades ago or whatever a couple decade ago like one of the first kind of really cool like here's how to build a bread oven book for folks like us.
+
+[22:15] And uh you know it's like mimicking a bread oven inside and that's the the baking stone right now the thing about a stone is is that they store heat for a long time but they're very slow kind of at releasing it. It's kind of retained heat kind of technology. Whereas the guys at Modernist Cuisine and I've spoken at length with Chris Young about this who's now running chef steps and I you know I think this was you know in part like his doing uh well at least at least one third in part right because he was you know the second author on that book is you don't need to store up the energy for a long time. Uh you just need to deliver it fairly quickly at the beginning, and so you need a thick enough piece of metal such that it can store enough heat to deliver that heat wall up to your crust. And that is the idea of the steel as opposed to the stone, right?
+
+[23:02] And clearly it's more versatile, but I've just haven't really had an opportunity to use it because by the time that had come out I'd already invested in a bunch of stone and it cooked a bunch of it. But I I have one now. I haven't really used it yet. I'm gonna see whether or not I like it when I fire up my oven neck next time. But you know, they they did a lot of testing and they have a lot of testimonials around it and people are now selling those uh those metal uh things at the at the houseware store.
+
+[23:30] So, you know, clearly clearly it must have some e efficacy. Yeah. Um sounds like it, but I'm wondering if it's too much for it. Sounds good for pizza where you want it want it quick and and and band to to deliver all that heat, but I'm wondering if for bread it might be too much and it would uh w would char the bottom, do you think? I don't know.
+
+[23:50] You know, I don't think it'll char the bottom because it's never gonna reheat up over the top of your initial of your oven temperature. So, you know, if you're if you have uh, you know, depending on how you cook, how you bake, you know, if you uh you know, w if if if you use a ramping temperature, so if you're one of those people that starts a little bit higher and then ramps down a little bit, they the stone will never I mean the uh metal will never heat above your oven temperature. Do you know what I'm saying? What what it will do is deliver that initial oven temperature for uh longer to the bottom of your crust than any other technique will. Uh a stone will deliver a more uh will deliver heat for longer, but once it's depleted will not heat back up to oven temperatures as as quickly or at all.
+
+[24:37] You know what I mean? Right, right. Okay, this has been really, really helpful. Um I'll I'll let you know what I end up going going with and and see what happens. Alright, cool.
+
+[24:47] Let us know. All right. All right. Thanks for a good week. Bye.
+
+[24:49] All right you too. Bye. Uh Thomas Vowe wrote in at cooking issues clarifying with Agar. Agar, my favorite clarification seaweed. You ever notice agar is like the one thing where like we say agar, but like a lot of people technically say agar agar.
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+[25:03] Like they say it twice. Mm-hmm the hydrocolloids so nice they named it twice. Agar agar. Stas hates working with agar, don't you? I do.
+
+[25:12] I do. Remember that time we had to do all that grapefruit and we d did a freestyle on it and then it didn't work and so then we had to do we had to we had to do like quick agar on like gallons and gallons and gallons and gallons of grapefruit. And then we were spinning that sucker in the centrifuge and trying to pour it off and then we kept on having to re spin it to get yield because our yield wasn't good enough and we needed to get that crap out and we had that event. Yeah. And you remember what do you say to me?
+
+[25:37] I'm never doing this again. Yeah I believe that's a stuff. No. It's like three years ago. Yeah you're like I'm never doing this again.
+
+[25:44] Yeah. Yeah. You're like, as for clarification, Dave, not me. I won't do it. You don't mind SPL though.
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+[25:50] You would do Hustino. Yeah, I'm fine with that. Yeah. Uh okay. Uh clarifying with Agar.
+
+[25:56] Juice has a funny medicinal taste post clarify. Is this normal from Agar? Any brand name recommendations? Thanks. Well, I only use telephone brand Agar.
+
+[26:06] Actually that's true. I do only use telephone brand Agar. Uh but that's because you can buy telephone brand Agar from uh grocery stores like uh Asian grocery stores. Now I have that, oh my gosh, I have that Spotify the news thing going away. Asian grocery store.
+
+[26:20] Anyways, so the uh but the thing is uh, you know, you can use any agar as long as you get used to it. I wouldn't use the prehydrated ones or the ones that don't require boiling because although I haven't used them, I know friends of mine who have had bad luck with them. The I've never had an off taste from agar, to be honest. What I would do is taste your literally taste the agar powder and see whether or not you're getting uh any any sort of off taste. What I think is happening is this.
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+[26:47] Uh the taste of juices changes sometimes quite radically when you clarify them. So what's most likely happening, uh, because you you don't specify what kind of juice that you're using, uh, is that um there are some flavor that the this medicinal flavor was present already in the juice, but was being masked by another flavor that was removed by uh uh clearly a a better flavor than was removed that was removed by the agar. So uh just to give you an idea, when you agar clarify orange juice, the remaining orange juice tastes the clarified stuff tastes like sunny D, right? So if you like sunny D, then I guess that's good, but you know, most people want orange juice to taste like orange juice and not like I haven't decided. I think it tastes more like sunny D than like Tang.
+
+[27:36] Have you tasted as does? No. Do you did you drink Tang growing up? No. What about Sunny D?
+
+[27:40] Yeah. D do you like sunny D? Mm-hmm. Yeah. Because you grew up with it.
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+[27:44] Mm-hmm. Yeah. Uh so, anyways, so it uh that's my feeling. So when you clarify grapefruit juice with agar, um it appears to get much sweeter. It's not actually getting sweeter, it's just an Orangeon and some of the bitter components have been stripped from it by the agar.
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+[27:59] So my guess is that it's not the brand of agar you're using, it's the fact that there's flavors getting stripped out of it. But I could be wrong. Taste taste the agar. I'm a big believer in tasting a lot of these things at least once to see kind of what's going on. And some hydrocolloids definitely do add a flavor to it.
+
+[28:16] But think about it. When you're clarifying with agar, you're adding two grams per liter. That's two-tenths of one percent of agar. Uh and you could add you know two graph two grams of straight acid, for instance, wouldn't change uh wouldn't make a liter of product that acidic. You know what I mean?
+
+[28:38] Lime juice for reference is around six percent acidity, and this is two-tenths of one percent or ten times thirty times less acid that's in in lime juice. It's the equivalent of putting uh an umce of lime juice into a liter of of liquid. Anyway, uh so I doubt that, and that's a very strong acid. So I'm doubting that you're getting the flavor transfer off of it, but I could be wrong. Things like methylcel, you st you tend to tend to start tasting once the percentages get you know up into the one percent range, things like this, you know, eight eight tenths of a percent or one percent.
+
+[29:10] Things like uh guar, which can have a very beanie taste, guar if you don't get the good one. Uh fracking guar. Uh it it you know, that can have a beanie taste that you can taste when you get over about half a percent, but um not agar, I haven't had a problem with it. Oh, unless you're using those weird, like unpurified like agar flakelets, which might have god knows what kind of like seaweed residue left in them. You bet you like just make sure you're buying the powder, the powder.
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+[29:38] Uh white powder. Uh should we take a break? Sure. We'll take a break, come back back with cooking issues, Heritage Foods USA is proud to announce our Heritage Rare Breed Chicken Rotation. We've partnered with Frank Reese, the country's preeminent poultry farmer, to create an alternative market for non-industry bred chicken and show our customers what real chicken tastes like.
+
+[30:53] Frank's chickens look and taste different from commodity poultry. They've not been genetically manipulated or pumped with antibiotics to increase their growth rate. Frank breeds and hatches his own birds so he can guarantee the finest animal welfare from start to finish. Order today at Heritage Foods USA dot com. Fine yellow fat.
+
+[31:41] Back with cooking issues. That one excited you, huh? Yeah. Well, good. Anytime you got banjo music, banjo music's the best.
+
+[31:47] I thought it was the chickens that excited you. Well, it's chickens plus banjos. How do you beat chickens plus banjos, especially coming off of a cock fighting bust? Impossible. Hey, Dave, by the way, uh, we were at the Eat Drink Bloody Mary competition again this year.
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+[32:00] Oh, yeah. And I I enjoyed the Booker index uh kind of what was it? Pineapple curry. Did you like it? That's uh I liked it.
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+[32:08] Our bartender, our bartender Austin, that uh that was his uh creation. Only thing uh I uh helped them with is they were having some problem in the uh mid palette, so I hadn't put a little tomato paste in to round out the mid palette. But uh yeah. It did not win. I I heard it did not win.
+
+[32:25] Who won? Uh the the judge's choice went to Dover and then the people's choice went to extra fancy, which was like it's funny. The people's choice went to the the most classic standard Bloody Mary. And I was like where does the line sit? You know, like w when does what you're making cease to be a Bloody Mary, or for that matter any classic cocktail, right?
+
+[32:46] Like look, like like the thing is is that anything that you do, this if you're gonna do classic, you know, you're gonna you're gonna do classic. When people want the crap that they're that they're used to. That's why like every year, like last year, you know, we did the we did the tomato soup with the with this grilled cheese sandwich um for uh for the Bloody Mary. Uh people in general want you know, they want what they want, but they what they what they're used to. It's kinda sad.
+
+[33:12] But like unless they're specifically going someplace to have it reinvented, people in general just kind of want uh the stuff. Well, the one that won, the judge's choice, was it wildly different? It was pretty different. What was it? Uh it had some kind of weird spices in it.
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+[33:27] I I don't re there were a lot to taste. I remember it being one of the funkier ones, though. But I mean it's like, is it even a Bloody Mary anymore at that point? You know? Well, I mean, these contests, right?
+
+[33:38] Like, here's the thing. Look, let's say you were gonna make a contest. People in general, they like a good story. This is a contest now. They like a good story, and you have to reinvent it.
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+[33:50] Otherwise, what's the point? Like, it's not about let's get let's get five people in the room, we'll all make the same daiquiri specs and you'll see who makes the best daiquy. You know what I mean? Uh Bloody Mary is a good one for people because everyone has their own, it's kind of like barbecue sauce. Everyone has like, they're like, Well, my barbecue sauce, exactly how much brown sugar and and uh you know other stuff in it do I put in it, you know, whatever, molasses or whatever, vinegar.
+
+[34:15] It's like because they're all roughly the same, but people are like people are like you know, violently proud of their particular mix of the same ingredients that the next fella uses. Or they're like, I add this one special ingredient that makes mine radically different. It's not really radically different, they're all fairly similar. You know what I mean? Uh and so uh when in contests like that, the there's kind of different ways you can go.
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+[34:37] In a Bloody Mary contest, there's the radical difference idea, and then there's, you know, where you take, hey, I'm doing a spicy tomato based cocktail, now where can I go with that that's totally different, you know? Or you could say, I'm gonna go, you know, with a very similar concept, but then I'm gonna add like my special pickle to it. I'm making a little quotes fingers. And that's another way to, you know, that's another way to kind of handle these contests. In general, someone who does something that has a flavor profile fairly similar to uh what people are used to tends to win.
+
+[35:10] Uh you know, if you have like a little bit of like, you know, flair added to it, like great. But um at least that's been my been my experience. Yeah, funny to see like I don't like Bloody Mary, so all the ones that I was voting for were the ones that didn't taste like Bloody Marys. Wow. You don't like Bloody Mary's what do you have against a Bloody Mary?
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+[35:28] I don't know. It's uh too me it's like a meal. Like a meal. Yeah. S you like Bloody Mary's not really.
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+[35:36] Right? For real? Mm-hmm. What did I my phone won't up to what don't you like about them? It's like a meal.
+
+[35:44] It's heavy. Yeah. Yeah. I mean I hate most kind of gloopy uh gloopy drinks, but that's the one that gets a pass for me. I don't like uh I'm part of this new th new thing that we're all starting where you don't have to eat them at uh night.
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+[35:59] I don't think you necessarily need to have the the the mean sorry in the in the morning. I think you can have one at night even though we started the bar with uh with a a drink called um Lady of the night which was a Bloody Mary that was clarified so that you could drink it at night. I think you could drink it during the day. Let's not forget someone asked me this the other day and uh you know I remember when I was a kid you weren't supposed to have gin and tonics in the wintertime. It was summertime only it was the equivalent of where which is the which is the uh holiday that that ends the uh summer stuff um is it labor or labor day labor day you know how you're not supposed to wear white after labor day anyone remember this yeah yeah so uh it was the same way with gin and tonics you weren't supposed to order a gin and tonic after labor day either it's kind of when you can wear white is when you can also order gin gin and tonic, right?
+
+[36:47] I mean, I never wear white, but but the the that's the point. But that taboo is gone. I mean, uh no one has a stigma now walking into a bar and ordering a gin and tonic any time of year. People don't even think of it as a seasonal drink anymore. Uh and so I think the Bloody Mary might be going that way where it's not only seen as you know, kind of a uh a morning thing.
+
+[37:07] I mean, think when you think about it, people can order a Corpse Revivor whenever they want. A Corpse Revivor is meant to uh be a little hair of the dog that bit you for like heavily alcohol infused people in the morning. Anyway. Uh wait, Jack, we got a caller? We do.
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+[37:20] Caller, you are on the air. Hey Dave, it's me, Don Lee. Hey, Don Lee. I'm calling in to remind you that you are bar backing for us on Sunday at a MoFed fundraiser at the Golden Cadillac. I uh that is uh that is true.
+
+[37:32] That is true. From what time? 5 p.m. to 5 p.m. until 7 p.m.
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+[37:36] We're gonna do $8 cocktails courtesy of Perno Ricard, and all proceeds will be going to uh the Museum of Food and Drink. Are we getting uh are we getting Missy Elliott to recut uh get your freak on with get your drink on for that, or is that later? Uh I think that's gonna be the next fundraiser. Next fundraiser, get your drink on. Get your drink on.
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+[37:54] That'd be great though, right? Yeah, this time you get to come uh harass me and John Daragon bartending together for the first time in three years. And uh he's gonna make some Malibu drinks. I'm gonna make some Kalua drinks, and we're gonna you know, we're gonna apply molecules to make uh bad cocktails taste good. Oh, sweet, sweet.
+
+[38:08] Well, you know, I hate molecules. I don't like them because I don't like matter. I don't like existence, so I detest all forms of molecules. But uh what was the last time you what was the three years ago? What did you guys do three years ago?
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+[38:18] We were at uh PDT. We opened PDT together. That was only three years ago? That was no we opened PDP five years ago. That was only five years ago?
+
+[38:25] Yeah, yeah. Can you believe that? That was only five years ago? It seems like eight lifetimes ago. Yep.
+
+[38:30] So yeah, Don Lee and uh John Darragon were the opening team at PDT. And brought you such drinks as the Bentons, what was it, Bentons? What'd you call that drink? The Bentons old fashioned. Yeah, with the with the fat washed uh the fat washed uh with the fat wash bourbon, uh Benton's bacon into four roses yellow label.
+
+[38:50] And uh and for the record, you're allowed to totally do bacon infuse whatever you want. I'm not gonna give you a shit about that. No, but I'm not uh I will never do it. I won't. Like you guys own that.
+
+[38:59] It's like in fact, in the cocktail book, like the the Maria made me put a fat washed uh that's my editor, maybe put a fat wash drink in. And so I did a take on do you remember um to you know Tona uh Palomino who was a WD50 is now uh doing bar in uh in uh Chicago? He had a drink on the menu at WD called uh old school back in like oh seven. And old school was fat washed uh um what's it called? What's that stuff called?
+
+[39:26] Peanut butter. But it was uh he did it on flourage style. He would like spread a thin layer of peanut butter on the bottom of a hotel pan and then pour the stuff on top, and then they would let it sit in the fridge forever because he was gonna carbonate it. So he couldn't uh he couldn't mix it in because peanut butter has a lot of stuff that dissolves into the liquid and doesn't doesn't cap out the way bacon does, right? Right.
+
+[39:47] And so uh yeah, so he did that and then he would mix in uh Welch's grape jelly and then carbonate it, which is awesome, right? So I did I did a take on on that one because I figure, you know, PB and J. And so many other people have ripped on the on the bacon thing that like, you know, I could I couldn't add like another there was there was no places left on the page to tear. I couldn't rip on it anymore. You know what I mean?
+
+[40:08] Uh so anyway, but yeah, so the for those of you uh you know, you should come and the re teamed original PDT team, OG P D T, right? Don Lee, for those of you that uh don't keep track of Don Lee's career, as I'm sure most of you do, uh, is now uh doing the bar program. With is it cocktail kingdom, uh, but is now doing the bar program. Is that temporary or is that permanent? It's permanent.
+
+[40:33] And so I'm still at Cocktail Kingdom, and then I'm also doing Golden Cadillac. No, I'm at Golden Cadillac. That's permanent bar program or that's temporary? Permanent bar program. Okay.
+
+[40:40] So Don Lee is now running the bar program at Golden Cadillac, which is a fine bar on first and first here in uh it's the easiest address to remember in the world. First and first. I couldn't remember what the street was. First and first. Uh Golden Cadillac.
+
+[40:53] And uh you got the awesome menus with like the with the really poorly done 70 style cutouts of the drinks on the back. I like that. We're trying to keep it classy. It it's totally, totally classy. You can go there and get an overproof daiquari with tell them the garnish done.
+
+[41:07] A disco ball. It's the disco daiquiri. Yeah, I have I have a couple of those. They're a little the you shouldn't can you like in the future, they're I think they're key rings, right? Can you get them instead with um with like those uh those cheap earring settings on them so that so that the people can wear them as earrings on the way out?
+
+[41:24] Well, we're gonna get the new uh instead of being the regular key ring, we're getting the key ring that's more like a carabiner, so it'll just clip on the side, so you can clip it on to whatever you want. Oh, nice. All right. Well, I'll have to come back and get some more uh get some more stuff. So come to the Golden Cadillac on first and first on Sunday, Sunday Sunday, where I will be applying my bar back skills between 5 and 7 p.m.
+
+[41:45] for the Museum of Food and Drink, bar backing for the great John Darragon and Don Lee. Right? Sounds great. Alright, dude. Alright, brother.
+
+[41:54] Anything else or just doing some business? Uh I got I got one uh thing to chime in on last week's uh podcast or uh show that you guys did. Uh since you give away all your great secrets, I'll give you one of my secrets. For the person who wanted to know how to get to the the different science resources in the on the internet that are behind a paywall. Oh, yeah, okay, good.
+
+[42:12] I want to know, yeah, okay, good. So if you are part of a uh major city library system like the New York Public Library or you know, Los Angeles Public Library, any of these big city ones, they usually have a sharing system with the university library. So you can usually request a book from a university library and they'll just send it to your local library so you can borrow it for some fixed amount of time. However, if there is a reference book that the library that's at the university does not lend out, they will give you a one-time, one-day pass to go into the university library to see the reference book. So most science um journals are considered a reference book, and so they're not lent out.
+
+[42:49] But if you look up uh on any university library system, you know, let's say NYU or Columbia, for example, here in New York City, through the New York public library system, they will carry all the journals. Probably not even physical form, probably in digital form. But if you get the one time pass, once you're in the library, now you're behind the paywall. Now you can do whatever you want. You know, what I do is just go in for a day, scrape every article I can, follow all the links, all the different uh references, and then I'll just read them in my spare time later.
+
+[43:17] Strong advice from Don Lee. Also, by the way, uh Don and well, even John in his current life are kind of uh like date computer data nerds. Am I right about this? Uh, he's pulling me back in. Pulling you back in.
+
+[43:32] But that's why that's why you should well I'm I'm I'm giving that as a reason why they should know the tip. And by the way, Don Lee, a tip from Don Lee is a guarantee because the man always like whenever whenever there's a question and like you need some sort of hookup, you just ask Don because he's already figured the hookup. Am I right? You know, I'm prepared for the zombie apocalypse. Yeah, dude.
+
+[43:54] This is one of the things that you guys have to know about Don Lee. If I could give you one piece of advice on this podcast is make friends with Don Lee. Seriously. Alright, Don. I'll see you on Sunday, brother.
+
+[44:04] See you soon. All right. Okay. So we had a question in from Paris, France. Two or three weeks ago, you had two separate questions on one vegetable canned soup that has to be heated for a lot of pasteurization, which affects the flavor.
+
+[44:17] And two, how beer and soda cans are better at keeping the carbonation than plastic bottles are. But doesn't soda canning uh require both cold temperatures to preserve carbonations and the same level of hygiene pasteurization as soup. I didn't do that answer this question already? No. Okay.
+
+[44:31] Uh in that case, uh, it would it be possible to can vegetable soup at a low enough temperature so that we don't kill the flavors and uh respect appropriate food safety procedures. Do I miss some fundamental differences in the two type of processes? Best and keep up the good works, stand B. Yeah, this is very, very different. Here's the deal.
+
+[44:49] So um when you are when you have uh uh beer uh and and soda, right, in a can, there you st any time you have uh soda, uh the carbonation in the soda is acting to do the vast majority of the work when it comes to um when it comes to killing off bacteria because carbon dioxide is extremely bacteriostatic, right? So in addition to that, a lot of times old school sodas that can't be pasteurized at all have uh benz a little bit of sodium benzoate added to it, uh sometimes potassium sorbate. And they're added as preservatives, primarily not to stop dangerous things from growing, because ain't nothing dangerous going to grow inside of that uh because of the carbon dioxide, but to prevent yeast from growing and converting the sugar uh to alcohol and ha and causing the flavors of the of the thing to go off, right? That's the primary function, and that's why you pasteurize uh products uh like sodas and whatnot. But you don't have to do a sterilization on soda uh or on a beer, uh the same way you would have to, so you don't have to go to the same high pressures or temperatures, which are related to pressure, you don't have to go to the same high temperatures on a beer because it's enough to kill the yeast, right?
+
+[46:11] Because you're not really worried about the bacteria, but to kill the yeast and any vegetative stuff, because no spores are gonna generate inside of the product now spores, the spools. But on the other hand, if you have soup, right, you need to heat it to a high enough temperature, canning temperatures, so that you can get everything in there dead because you're gonna keep it at uh on shelf uh shelf temperature uh for God knows how long, and you can't have nasty anaerobic things growing inside of there like botulism, which could cause the cans to blow up and whatnot and kill you. Yeah, they can blown up. That's what I'm worried about first. The camp blowing up.
+
+[46:47] No, it'll kill you. Uh so in general, sodas are acidic, which is gonna prevent things like that from happening, and um fill with carbon dioxide, which definitely is gonna prevent things like that happening. So they're fundamentally um they're fundamentally uh different for uh pasteurization problem from uh the soup. Yeah? Yep.
+
+[47:06] Yeah. All right, I was like, I got some more questions in on of the Twitter. Uh where is it? Where is it? Oh, so this is from uh EC North America.
+
+[47:18] By the way, they now go just by EC, not EC or ISI. They just launched the uh rapid infusion kit that uh they say they say new EC rapid infusion kit just launched, inspired by the creator brainchild of rapid infusion at cooking issues. And they sent a Twitter feed out of it, see what it looks like. You want to see what it looks like? Nah, nah, don't really care.
+
+[47:39] No. No. Inspired. Oh look oh my gosh. You're gonna you're gonna think the look of it, look at take a look at Stas.
+
+[47:44] You can't see it on the line, but we could post a picture of it. Is that does the little rubber thing freak you out a little bit? Yeah. I mean you know I love the I love the EC, but it's looking a little bit like a sex toy there. Yeah.
+
+[47:54] Jack, you gotta look at look that up and throw that up on on our thing. Uh last week we had a question, and for some reason I can't find my uh old uh questions, but we had a question on um parchment paper and talking about parchment paper and kind of what it is and what's the difference between all the different kinds of uh parchment paper. So I'll talk a little bit about that now. Uh the the thing about parchment papers is a lot of people and uh no one probably who no one will know that remember that that was uh no one will know that's uh psychic friends network. But who did that?
+
+[48:25] That was Jay Moore who did the Psychic Friends Network pretending to be Christopher Walken. And Travis, my brother-in-law, is shooting the the you know the cocktail book. He uh he's started saying that to me over and over again. So now like whenever anyone says that, we we we I love like how many times in my life do we i imitate the fake imitation of somebody else, right? So I I'm not even doing Christopher Walken, I'm doing Jay Moore doing Christopher Walking, Christopher Walken.
+
+[48:50] Todd Bridges can be at your house in your driveway, no one will know. Uh the theory of that w was that a bunch of whack jobs Todd Bridges actually was a nice guy. I met him. Uh when remember when we did that show that time? They're having me doing about safety or something like this and and low temperament, meat glue and safety.
+
+[49:07] Remember when they're the big thing was going around and everyone was worried about it, and we did some show, so Fox or something like this, and Todd Bridges was on? Sweet dude. Sweet dude. Todd Bridges Willis, by the way, for those of you that don't remember uh the good the uh the different strokes. Do you watch different strokes?
+
+[49:22] No. Really? Mm-hmm. Not at all? No.
+
+[49:25] What about you, Jack? Uh sorry, no, I don't. What the hell? Like, like I feel like you guys had entirely different childhoods from the than the one I uh I had. Anyway, so uh parchment.
+
+[49:37] So a lot of people mistake uh wax paper for parchment. You you guys don't make that mistake. You would never make that mistake, right? If I asked you for parchment paper, you'd never show up with wax paper, right? Right.
+
+[49:47] Because it's coated with what? Wax. Wax. Parchment paper is meant to cook with. Wax paper is great.
+
+[49:52] I love wax paper, but I can't tell you how many people confuse wax paper and parchment, which is ridiculous. The other one, you know what people do? People are like, tonic water doesn't have any sugar in it because it's like salsa, right? Wrong. Tonic water has as much sugar in it as a regular soda does.
+
+[50:08] As much. It's around 10% sugar. You ever make that mistake, Style? You never made that mistake. Nope.
+
+[50:13] Jack, would you ever make that mistake? No. No. They're like, uh I'm not gonna say it. I don't like the uh they said I don't want to deal with it.
+
+[50:19] So uh most parchment paper that you buy nowadays, and and by that I mean I buy Reynolds brand typically, uh, is coated with silicone. And that's really where a lot of a lot of the non-stickness of it comes from. Now, what I don't know about parchment paper, I wasn't able to do anything uh kind of big on it, is that I I would use parchment paper on my pizzas all the time. The only issue is is that my pizza oven would get well above the decomposition temperatures of silicone, and so I'm wondering whether or not it was actually kind of a bad idea to put the parchment paper into a place where it's gonna get you know fundamentally incinerated. It used to be if I didn't cut, I would have to cut the parchment paper all around the pizza dough and load it in because the stuff around the sides would catch on fire otherwise.
+
+[51:02] You know, the stuff right underneath the pizza had the pizza protected, so it's not gonna get burnt and it separates great. But the separate separates great. What am I speaking English? Separates well. But the it's great.
+
+[51:12] Uh but the uh uh so it's the silicone, the silicone impregnated silicone that that it has it work. All the parchment papers that I use have that silicone. There's a new parchment paper out there that has uh aluminum bonded to one side of it, so it's aluminum foil on one side and parchment on the other, and it's sold as baking pan liners, and the theoretical advantage of it is it lays a lot flatter than parchment paper does, but I can't really tell you whether whether you know how awesome it is. I used it and all I noted was that it was a lot more expensive than uh the other stuff. But in general, I'm a big fan of parchment paper, and I hope that helps a little a bit.
+
+[51:49] Um, I found my other questions from last week. William McGee wrote in. I didn't answer about French fry cutters, did I? No. William McGee wrote in and said, Do you have any recommendations for French fry cutters for home use?
+
+[52:00] I've seen models both horizontal and vertical. Also on the Kickstarter for the Sears All, you had a recipe book available to higher level backers. Will you have this recipe book available separately at a later date for purchase? Thanks, William McGee. Stas, will we?
+
+[52:13] Yes. You've made that up. Yes. Yes. Uh okay.
+
+[52:19] So French fry cutters. I here's the deal. Uh avoid any plastic French fry cutter. Just avoid them. Because why?
+
+[52:26] They're gonna break. They're useless, right? Uh I the French fry cutter that I use uh looks hor looks is is the one that's kind of vertically mounted. I use it horizontally unmounted because I haven't had a place to uh mount my French fry cutter in in years. Um but I like that I like that style, the vertical mounted style with the with the thing in the front that looks like uh what does it look like?
+
+[52:44] It's hard to describe. It's got like a swoopy handle. You've seen my French fry cutter, right, son? It's got a swoopy handle, and it's made of that's made of cast metal, and then the whole thing's bolted together with I think three eighths inch screws and holds the uh cutting plate in the front, and there's uh like a V sa V-shaped um uh like kind of sliding chute and then uh a plunger on it, and the plunger actually engages the blades, right? And you need to replace the blades every once in a while because they get they get dull.
+
+[53:17] But I use that thing and I can slam through fifty, I can slam through 10 pounds of potatoes with it in like two and a half, three minutes, like bang, bang, bang, bang, bang, bang, bang, bang, bang. Now, the best, the best is to have it mounted on a wall, right? Here's what you do you have it mounted on a wall, and then you have your peeled potatoes in one container, like a hotel pan full of water, and then you have a hotel pan of water directly underneath the French fry cutter. And this is why the wall-mounted one is great. You have it directly underneath it, and then you load the potatoes and you cut them directly into the water.
+
+[53:53] Bop, bop, bop, bop, bop, and it stops you from getting a lot of discoloration, right? In between the cutting time, or if you're gonna do a soak before you cook them, between the cutting time and the and the and and doing the initial water blanch, assuming you do a water blanch. I'm assuming you do. Uh and you know, also they make different size cutters, but I've never used a shoestring one. I I use uh three eighths uh or slightly larger half inch cutting rings for mine.
+
+[54:18] I have two plates for mine. Anyways, so uh cutting into water like that is fantastic and it's so neat. It means there's so little mess, right? So typical my whole French fry production for the cutting standpoint is uh put the put them in the sink, fill the sink with water, throw the potatoes in, stir them around with my hands, knock off all of the uh loose dirt, you know, roll them around in there, pull pull the pull the plug, get a hotel pan, peel uh, you know, peel over uh a bowl uh with some with uh some running water, rinse it off, throw them into water. Now they're peeled, and you've made sure you've gotten all of the the reason to peel your fries, by the way, two reasons.
+
+[54:53] I know it's nutritionally a bad idea to peel fries. Do you peel your stuff before you make fries? You don't like fries, forget you. Do you like baked potatoes? Mm-hmm.
+
+[55:00] Anyway, so I like the taste of the skin, right? But uh when you're doing French fries, the skin kind of never gets as crunchy as the rest of the stuff. I mean, I like but I like them jacketed fries, but meh, I like potato skins that have been cooked super crunchy. The other problem is is that potatoes, I don't know about the potatoes you guys get, but the potatoes I get potatoes. The potatoes that I get always have some uh like some bad spots underneath that you can't see.
+
+[55:26] And commercially, they what they do is they spray potatoes with high pressure water and it eats away all the soft parts. Uh, but I hate getting those. So when you peel them, you can see them. Jack, what's your feeling? Skin on or skin off this right?
+
+[55:37] Nah, man. Sorry. Jesus. Uh but why? Because you like the taste of the skins.
+
+[55:42] You know they're not as crunchy. You realize they're not as crunchy. And that's okay. You're okay with that. Yeah, I like the tastes.
+
+[55:47] Yeah? Yeah. Prove me wrong. The taste, the taste. No, I I understand why you do that.
+
+[55:52] By the way, I'm doing today's show in chaps. Chaps, chaps. I'm wearing cow chaps. I'm gonna steal these suckers, Jack. Yeah, I I think you should.
+
+[56:00] Yeah. So anyway, so uh you take the potatoes and you uh now you have them in water in a hotel pan, and they're not turning to crap, they're not turning anything because they're in water, and it's getting the last, it's getting the starch off the outside, and it's getting the last of the dirt off and sinking to the bottom. Then your next hotel pan, bat, bat, bap, bap, bap, cut them right into it and you get going that way. Otherwise, it gets messy and things get everywhere, and it's a pain in the butt. That's the best way to do it.
+
+[56:22] So I would go with the one that's meant to be mounted uh vertically. If you cannot mount it for some reason, like you don't have the space, I still use that style, but you have to develop a certain uh there's a certain skill to using that thing uh when it's not mounted because it's a pain in the butt. You it it involves like holding the handle and then holding the base in such a way that you don't crip yourself and jerking forward and back at the same time and pounding the potatoes out. And I've gotten so used to it that it doesn't really slow me down to not have it mounted, but you know, I'm hoping to mount it in my new my new joint. I haven't mounted it yet.
+
+[56:58] Still, it's still in the drawer, but I love it. I love cutting French fries, and I love french fries. You know what's not of all the things, biscuits and whatnot, French fries might be the weirdest thing that you don't like. You know? That's true.
+
+[57:09] Uh I already answered Paul's question on which curious cook one to buy, right? Yep. All right. Let's see whether I well, actually, I'm about to get kicked off the Yeah. Hey, before we close the show, I want to put an open call out for another theme song.
+
+[57:19] Oh, yeah, yeah. Think about that time. Yeah. All right. It's been a while.
+
+[57:23] Did I answer last week Rodney's question on coconut flour or not? I don't think so. Do I have time or not? Not really. Oh man.
+
+[57:32] Unless you can get to it in two minutes. Alright, I'm gonna do it in two minutes. Rodney, Rodney, here you go. This is Rodney from Amsterdam, the Netherlands. In a low carb period of my life, I purchased a bunch of coconut flour.
+
+[57:40] It's not really flour, and I'm glad you're done with your low carb period. I've been trying for a while to make crepes with it, but I've not succeeded so far. Crepe batter with 50% wheat flour and 50% coconut flour works, but anything over that fails. The coconut flour simply can't hold together, and I'm unable to even flip it without tearing the crepe. I'd like to make crapes with just a coconut flour.
+
+[57:57] The composition of the coconut flour is as follows. And then you give me the moisture 3.6, ash 3.1, fat 10.9, protein 12.1, and then the balance uh carbs. So it contains almost no gluten and almost no starch, plus it absorbs very large amounts of water. My theory is that the carbohydrator protein network cannot be formed because there's too little starch and no gluten at all. So I'm trying adding pure gluten, xanthan gum, and more eggs, not all at the same time, but to no avail.
+
+[58:20] Do you have any theories? Thanks a lot. Uh yeah, coconut flour doesn't work the same way uh normal coconut flour does coconut does. I would, if you want to cook with coconut flours, uh, there's a bunch of books available specifically for coconut flour. I don't own them, but you can check out cooking with coconut flour, a delicious low-carb gluten-free alternative to wheat, a paperback by Bruce Fife, that you can get on the Amazon.
+
+[58:39] And he's like the he's the head of like the Coconut Institute. He does everything with coconut. But I looked up a bunch of, and you look on Rob's uh Bob's Red Mill, what's it called? You know what I'm talking about. Bob's Red Mill.
+
+[58:50] Uh, he has a bunch of coconut flour recipes uh and a video on coconut flour recipe, but having looked up a bunch of them on the thing, stuff just doesn't hold together. So they recommend normally only subbing in about 20% uh to a normal recipe. If you want to go ahead and use only coconut flour, what they're fundamentally doing is making things that are eggs. It's just eggs. It's like set egg loafs, and the coconut flour is just there to make it not taste like eggs and to give it the feeling that it's made like a normal baked good.
+
+[59:15] So if you want to do crepes or crepe style thing, what I would do is this I would whip up egg whites into a meringue, fold the coconut flour into it, and then if you or and then if you need to, or maybe do this. If you want it a little bit denser, I would uh mix the egg yolks in with the coconut flour, whip the egg whites to soft peaks, stir them in quickly, and then pour them out uh and bake them like that and see if it works. Because everything that I've read relies on ridiculous amounts of eggs. Cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org.
+
+[59:54] You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritageradio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today.
+
+[1:00:18] Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Fairway Market, like no other market, a New York City institution that sells the best local, national, and international artisan foods for prices that can't be beat. For more information, visit Fairway Market.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:33] This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from Bushwick Brooklyn at Roberta's Pizzeria on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from roughly twelve to roughly one o'clock. Sas, how you doing? Good. You like that better? Don't care.
+
+[0:50] Don't care? No. We didn't get any new submissions for songs, Jack? Jack? I know.
+
+[0:56] Jack and Joe in the in the engineering booth, both, by the way, accomplished musicians. Whoa, oh well. There it is. The call's been open. So I mean, let's put it at the top of the show here.
+
+[1:06] Maybe maybe people pay attention more. We need a new theme song. Listen, we like what we got. We want to keep all the theme songs. We want some more.
+
+[1:13] Yeah, I mean, so what what were you what were you thinking? I was thinking maybe like a so we have like cocktail jazz, like that, you know, the Vicious Vicious vodka kind of re redo, right? The Ficious Fishes vodka. That's you know from the cocktail jazz kind of, you know, theory of operation, like Amos Millburn, that kind of stuff. And then, you know, we have uh kind of a uh a hardcore y version, right?
+
+[1:35] Right? Yep. So so what do we what do we make? We don't have country. We don't have a twangy country theme.
+
+[1:40] We could use that. We could use maybe like uh a hip hop beat theme. Oh hell yeah. Right? Oh yeah.
+
+[1:45] Yeah. Oh, oh hell yes. Oh yeah. But it had to be good hip hop. I know.
+
+[1:49] Either good hip hop or like dumb in a really good way. Right. Like uh Lonely Island, good dumb, you know what I mean? Or like or like actually good dumb. Or actually good.
+
+[1:59] Which is so hard, man. It's so hard to get hip hop that's like most hip hop's in between, you know what I mean? It's t it's tough. What about like a club a club theme song? Mean like uh like like what era?
+
+[2:10] Like uh like house, like eighties house. Yeah? Or like or like nineties like like nineties ass and stuff like James Brown is dead, like who's that? That was LA style. Remember LA style?
+
+[2:21] I don't. James Brown is dead. We could do something like that. But the uh problem with them is that they came out with that song when James Brown was still alive. What we really need is like a Hall and Oates type theme.
+
+[2:33] Oh stino, that would be amazing. I you know, Stas at any given moment, Stas and I might just break into a Holland Oat song at any given any given second, it might happen. You know what I mean? Maybe instead of playing break songs, you guys can just sing Holland Oates songs on the break. All right, it's a that's not allowed, right?
+
+[2:51] With your Well, I don't know. It's also a little known fact that I kind of uh I ha I have singing to rets in that I uh kind of involuntarily insert curse words into the middle of songs as I sing them. Mostly the C word. No, I never use in songs? Yeah I use the F bomb in songs.
+
+[3:10] You're a d you're just you almost just cursed. It was close. Anyway, it's uh it's a bad habit. I'm trying to trying to break it. Uh but you know, that's that's uh that's what it is.
+
+[3:22] But if someone's gonna do country, like uh I mean personally, Stas doesn't like country. You know why, Jack and Joe? Why? Because uh because she doesn't like stories. No, it's just a swear to God, Stas, am I lying about that?
+
+[3:39] It's only since I started working with you. Because you taught like you'll play he'll play a country song. The same country song over and over, and he'll be like, Can you believe that he left his wife or his dog? And I mean, why would he do that? And same, same breakdown.
+
+[3:54] He analyzes these songs. Same songs. First of all, like is that not true? I think some of these songs merit attention. They merit deep reading.
+
+[4:05] Merits attention. What? That's not true. That's not true. I hope someone's writing a story theme song for us right now.
+
+[4:12] I hope so too. Look, and you know what? You know, Stas didn't grow up watching TV, so like, you know, we're good. Oh, yeah? How do you not like a story song if you grew up watching Gilligan's Island?
+
+[4:22] Gilligan's Island. Look, here look, okay, so analyze it. So this is not country. Yes, because it's like the same analyzation every single time. Analysis, not even a word.
+
+[4:31] Not even a word. Analysis every single time. Not even a word. How can I trust anything you say if you bust out non-words on me? You know?
+
+[4:41] But like like s certain injustices, Jack and Joe, like they they hit me, so I have to mention them every time. So not country, but TV themed songs. You familiar with the Gilligan's Island theme song? Oh, of course. Yeah.
+
+[4:52] You're familiar with the first season of Gilligan's Island? Um probably. I used to watch a lot of reruns as a child of Gilligan's Island. Right, Gilligan was like one of my best friends growing up. I watched that stuff constantly.
+
+[5:03] Yeah, I bought a Gilligan hat because I liked him so much. Nice, nice. But anyway, so the first season was in black and white, right? And their song, which we all know, you know, at the end, The Millionaire and His Wife, the movie star, the Professor and Mary Ann, you know, here on Gilligan's Isle, right? Right?
+
+[5:20] We all know this. The original season it was uh was Gilligan, the Skipper Two, The Millionaire, and his wife, the movie star, and the rest. And the rest and the rest? The rest? There's only two of them.
+
+[5:29] Two people. Yeah, yeah, like the time it takes you to say the professor and Mary Ann, you could have just said, you know, and the rest, it's like the same thing. They changed it. They changed it, but I mean, I don't know. It just seems like crappy.
+
+[5:46] Everyone knows Marianne's the hot one. So why didn't she get on it? You know what I mean? Anyways. I like story songs.
+
+[5:52] I like to think about the stories and songs and why people made particular choices. You know? I like Merle Haggard. Um, how do we get on this? It's all because of the theme song.
+
+[6:02] Alright, okay. So, uh calling your questions to 7184972128. That's 7184972128 P.S. Someone, I'm gonna I'm not gonna go into the full rant because I you know what, uh, my my veins will purst uh burst. I was up uh uh last night uh quite late writing.
+
+[6:18] So uh Mike uh uh F Stradi uh what Mike, you got a name I can't I can't you know I can't pronounce names, Mike. Mike Fratiadis. That's kind of a nice name. Estradiadis. I hope I got that right.
+
+[6:32] Uh says, hey Dave, I was wondering about MSG. Is it safe? What's with all the gloomy posts about it? Mike, Mike, how do you do this to me? How do you make me go back and listen to old shows?
+
+[6:43] No, it starts. That's that's an absurd heritage what I say and look for MSG specific shows. Um then it's not a Mary you rant. It's not really. Okay, I'm not gonna go into the full rant, Mike.
+
+[6:55] Let me just say it tell you this. I'll give you a couple brief bullet points to use against people uh who talk about MSG. Uh most arguments against MSG either rely on a number of really turdbasket studies about um the actual purported effects on people, and then there's a lot of hoo ha hocum bad science about um excitatory uh neurotoxins uh because if you it turns out if you inject a lot you know msg into your brain it's not a good idea don't inject anything into your brain by the way uh but you know uh there's a bunch of research that neonatal primates can get brain damage if you give them large amounts of msg um you know without anything else and it's because uh you know um it can cross the blood brain barrier in primates but not in in in humans in fact your body produces msg your body produces msg uh not msg but it's because it's not monosodium but it produces um uh it produces glutamic acid in your in your head it's used as a as a uh um neurotransmitter it's then converted to glutamine and transported back across your blood brain barrier to be extremed so you're a net producer of it uh there's no credible decent evidence uh that it's uh bad for you um you don't consume enough of it for it to cause your blood levels to spike in any way unless you were to eat it pure and a large amount of it uh and the only decent studies done are uh double blind uh control studies where the actual MSG was administered in gel caps uh that couldn't possibly be detected by taste and all of those show that there's uh no problem and yet despite all this Nastasha continues to believe that she it has some sort of reaction to it. True or false does nope I just don't eat it anymore. What kind of a what kind of a coarse crap is that trying to get out of uh of of saying you're I just don't need it.
+
+[8:50] I eat it in your snacks. We don't use MSG in the snacks for consumption. We use it in our tests. Oh you only use it in tests. No brains.
+
+[9:01] No brains. Stas, no brains. No, we use it like I use uh MSG. Piper when he was with us, uh brought a lot of MSG. We we did it to test snacks.
+
+[9:10] Because what you do is when you're testing snacks out, you want to test how much kind of umami punch you need to add to the snacks in order to get kind of the flavor level where you want. And then the the hard part is is that to sell snacks to people, because people are irrational about this, you have to have them be MSG free. So then you have to go back and you have to punch that umami the same amount without using MSG. So typically, if you don't want it to taste like um uh combu or dashi, you uh you add things like uh yeast extracts or you know other broken down uh protein uh products. Anyways.
+
+[9:46] So there you have it, Mike. My non rant version of uh MSG. But I I'm sure that Jack uh can find when I went off on it before. Oh, yeah, that was like the unplugged. Uh well, you mean because I was so loud you had to like Yeah, last time you were really getting in.
+
+[10:00] Yeah, yeah. Well, you know, so I think you can't you can't do the same thing. But this is what I want to go off on. Someone has to explain this to me. Are you guys shoppers uh at Subway, the uh the store that sells uh submarine sandwiches with that bread with that that's really bad.
+
+[10:12] Yeah, but do you go? My kids I haven't been in years. I told you my kids love it, right? Because they get to customize their sandwich. I told you that.
+
+[10:18] They tell you their new, their new craziness, the new thing. Oh, sriracha. Oh, they have sriracha? No, I didn't know that. I mean, everyone's got sriracha.
+
+[10:25] You know, there's a sriracha, there's a sriracha uh documentary, but I haven't seen it yet because you have to buy it. So I have to buy it, and look, it's like a half-inch documentary on a sriracha, and they interview the guy, and he's like, Everybody loves my product. I can't help it. If people stop loving my product, maybe I'll stop making it. But everybody loves it.
+
+[10:41] But he doesn't have that accent. Great story. Yeah, it is. It's a good story, right? Uh and uh one of the uh PAs gets his eye sprayed with Sriracha and in the outtakes, which is hilarious.
+
+[10:44] Uh but anyway, no, not a sriracha. So here's what happens. I guarantee you'cause I know how ideation stuff happens in these corporations, because you know, we've done it a couple of times for people, so they're like, they're like, listen, guys, this is like this is the subway, the the boardroom or whatever. They're sitting around the ideation room. They're like, hey, hey guys, listen.
+
+[11:07] Uh we want to sell pizza, but really we're a sandwich company, right? So we don't really have the, you know, we don't really have the wherewithal to sell pizza to people, right? Because we're a sandwich shop, yeah? So we have to like show, we have to demonstrate something's wrong with a regular pizza or some point of difference so that people will buy our subway style pizzas instead of a real pizza that they could get across the street, right? Right?
+
+[11:29] Okay, so guys, come on. Uh, what's wrong with pizzas? Wait, what do you got? Hey, Larry, what what do you got? Uh I don't know, man.
+
+[11:36] Too greasy. Yeah, it's a good one. Too greasy, too greasy. Hey, half, half. What do you got?
+
+[11:40] Pizzas are too three-dimensional, boss. They're too three-dimensional. That's it. We're gonna make a flat pizza. So swear to swear to God, Subway has a new product called flat pizza because they perceived that the problem with pizzas is that they're too three-dimensional and need to be flattened out.
+
+[12:00] What kind of dope were those dudes smoking when they came up with that idea? Who thinks that a problem with pizza is that it's too freaking flat? And by the way, the image that they have on their freaking advertisements is like a deep dish freaking thing. It's the least flat pizza. You know, they have no mechanism to actually make a flat pizza.
+
+[12:19] They can't make like a cracker crust. They can't do what is this fire bake style. F what does that even mean? What does that mean? It has no meaning for me.
+
+[12:32] Flat pizza. And it doesn't trip off the tongue. It's the worst word for a product. And people, they're millions of dollars involved in this decision. Like, like many dozens, hundreds of people had to had look what kind of ogre runs that company such that no one underneath was like, boss, this idea sucks the royal root.
+
+[12:55] This makes no freaking sense, boss. No one checked them on that. It's Ilios, though, basically. I don't even know what's an Ilios. Oh, you don't know what that is?
+
+[13:02] The frozen flat pizzas? But what do you mean flat? Pizzas are by their nature flat. There's like it was like, I'm not like, oh, oh, uh, you know what? I'm so sick of these kind of like three-dimensional globe-shaped puzzle pizzas that I've been getting recently at the local pizzeria.
+
+[13:20] The thing about flat pizza is that it's the same amount of syllables as flat pizza. It doesn't save you any time. The name is bad. Yeah, but you know what? They're like, hey, boss, we can't trademark flat pizza.
+
+[13:32] Because it's just the word flat and the word pizza, and everybody already knows pizza is flat. Well, we can trademark flat pizza. This is genius. The more I think about it. But you know what?
+
+[13:43] How is it that people make millions of dollars doing this? Like, how is this how is this like how how is this possible? I don't re I don't understand it. Someone explained to me an actual valid marketing scheme behind this. Like, I I like, as uh was it with Barnum said that no one uh no one uh lost money uh underestimating the stupidity of the American public?
+
+[14:04] Is that what that Barnum? I don't agree with that. I agree that we're a good uh natured people and that we can be uh reasoned with prove him wrong. Don't buy a flat pizza. Maybe maybe it tastes delicious.
+
+[14:16] In which case, I don't know. But uh Jack doesn't think Jack doesn't like their product, so he doesn't think it tastes delicious. Yeah, I like their cookies. Oh, you like their cookies? Why the cookies?
+
+[14:26] I don't know. You have the option to get like chips or a cookie with your sandwich, and I I've enjoyed those cookies. Yeah? They're kind of like uh gooey. Yeah?
+
+[14:35] Yeah. You never had you never had a Subway cookie sauce? You ever had a subway sandwich? Mm-hmm. Yeah?
+
+[14:40] Yeah. Yeah. I had I had one literally the other day because uh my kids are like, we're gonna go to Subway, Dad. I'm like, uh great. Okay.
+
+[14:48] Uh Timothy Helmuth uh writes in uh uh regarding apricots. Hello, Dave Nastasha et al. I've been drawing a lot of delicious sun-dried apricots lately, the really sour ones, so presumably the Blenheims, right? Because those are the ones you get that are sour. Uh, and got to thinking they'd make a great flavor for a soda.
+
+[15:03] They probably would. Any tips on how to extract the flavor of the apricots, ideally without using alcohol. I hope to share the finished product with some teetotalers. I'd love to hear your thoughts, practical or otherwise. Thanks, Timothy.
+
+[15:14] Okay, listen. Uh so the the main question obviously is do you have a centrifuge, right? So let's just assume you don't have a centrifuge. You're gonna want to go to modernistpantry.com, modernistpantry.com, and get yourself some uh pectanex ultra spl if you don't already have it. And you because what we're gonna do is we're going to break down the pectin in the apricot.
+
+[15:37] If you don't, it's gonna be uh like a nightmare. Also, apricots take a long time to rehydrate. I think you remember there was a caller who called in before because they were doing prunes and apricots in in a bag and the apricots wouldn't hydrate and the prunes would. It takes a while. And my experience has been making alcoholic products with apricots in a centrifuge that I literally have to blend it, spin it, and then blend it again and spin it again to get like the full flavor of the apricot out just because it's so resistant sometimes to rehydration.
+
+[16:05] So what I would do is I would mix uh the apricots like um like uh maybe start with like four to one in water, so like 100 to 400. You might have to go a little more. You might have to go 100 apricots, 500 water. Uh get warm water, right? It could even be it can be make it warm.
+
+[16:23] I take that back, make it warm. Uh, you know, like uh body temp or thereabouts. Add some enzyme, uh add like more than I would normally add. Add like four grams per liter of pectinex ultra SPL and blend the hell out of it. So what you're doing here is that the pectinx is going to start breaking down the uh internal uh, you know, the the the actual structure of the apricot and allow you to extract more of the flavor.
+
+[16:48] It's also going to break down some of the soluble pectin. You don't want to cook it beforehand because then it makes it more resistant. My feeling is I don't have improved it, but I think it makes it more resistant to the uh pectinx. So you're gonna be breaking down the products. Then you're gonna want to strain that, right, through through like a like a fine strainer.
+
+[17:03] Don't go sheen, don't go um uh what's it what's what the word I'm looking for? Yeah, coffee filter on it yet, because it's just gonna be frustrating. Then re blend the pulp that's left with um pectinex again and uh and some more water and let it sit for a while to really break down and blend it again, let it break down, strain it out, then put that sucker through a coffee filter, and it should uh you should be able to get a product that's clear enough to make uh a soda out of. If not, you could probably let it settle overnight. Once you've added the pectin X and strained it out, you should be able to let it settle overnight uh and then rack uh the stuff uh off the top.
+
+[17:43] But I mean, I know I've done it with center fusions and it's delicious, but it's just your yields aren't very high on those apricots uh unless you do unless you do that second re-wetting, which which I call remouillage after the French stock technique of rewetting the bones. Yeah? Rewriting the bones. Should we take a break? Sure.
+
+[18:03] Take a commercial break, come right back with cooking issues. Hi, I'm Steve Jenkins from Fairway Markets. I've devoted my idiot career to the old ways, the old recipes, the old tools, the old geography of where serious foods come from for centuries. And I've strived to make these wonderful things available to New Yorkers for 37 years. So it's a feta complet for us to support Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[18:42] And I hope you will too, and I hope you'll keep tuning in. For more information, please visit Fairway Market.com. Hey guys. We on? Yeah.
+
+[18:58] Hey guys, what what's Steve Jenkins? He sounds like some voiceover actor. That's because he was a voiceover actor. Come on. I'm serious.
+
+[19:06] For real. For real. He spent some time doing voiceover work. Maybe I don't know. I'll have to look up his like his credits.
+
+[19:11] Maybe you heard him somewhere. Or maybe it's just like that voice is like, you know, the man's got a golden voice. Golden. Does he do a cheese show for you guys? We profiled him on Evolutionaries, which is that really awesome thing we do where we do like radio documentaries on people's lives and tell their stories.
+
+[19:26] He was episode number one, so I recommend that. I remember that time, and in fact, he used to get really, really angry, really angry, whenever someone in the media would point out that New York City mean like virulently angry when people in the media would point out that cheesemongers in uh New York were bringing in illegal cheeses because he didn't want the tap to stop flowing. You know what I mean? So he was nervous about it and he was like, Can't can't you just shut up and like let me bring in the cheese, you know what I'm saying? That was in the old days.
+
+[20:10] So he doesn't do that anymore. He's too uh too big, been too uh too out it or what I can't speak to that. Uh I don't know. Yeah, yeah. But apparently everything was fake back before him.
+
+[20:20] Like even when they were selling things, they called Canabare or whatever. It wasn't actually that some Right. Well, you know, look that that I mean it's hard for it's hard for people to remember unless they unless they you know think back to it. So I first started shopping for with you know at Fairway for his cheese stuff in uh I don't know, like the early nineties or mid n mid nineties, I guess, when they moved the fairway uh when they first created the uptown fairway over in Harlem, where my studio was at the time. And uh yeah, it was like a revelation 'cause I you know you've been shopping at places that you thought like had decent cheeses for years, like Zaybars and um, you know, those kind of joints, and then uh they they really they really upped the game.
+
+[20:59] You know, it's like people uh I get people forget it was kind of um a groundbreaking place to to buy cheese. I didn't live down near uh, you know, the downtown cheese shop, so my expo my early exposure to that that kind of level of cheese stuff was uptown at the uh at the fairway. So, yeah, kudos. But he's not like the voice is not quite, it's not Casey Caseum, it's like it's a mix like where is it? It's like in the voiceover world.
+
+[21:25] I gotta figure out where it is. Anyway. Uh and you're gonna look up his uh his credits. Yeah, I'll see if I can find I can dig it. We'll see.
+
+[21:32] Yeah. All right. Uh Paul writes in regarding benzuit. So we're on preservatives and uh and other stuff today, right? Mm-hmm.
+
+[21:41] Sodium benzoit. Uh it's a good word, isn't it? I would like to hear Alec Baldwin say benzoit. I bet he'd be awesome at it. Uh hi all.
+
+[21:48] I've just been listening to episode 149. Yes, I'm a few weeks behind. You were answering a question about stabilizing fruit juices, uh, and I think I understood that Piper uses benzoate. Piper. I think that Piper uses benzoate to prevent microbial growth.
+
+[22:01] I don't recommend doing this because a few years ago it was shown that benzoit can convert to benzene over time. Benzene nasty, by the way, in case you guys don't remember your chemistry. Uh can convert to benzene over time, especially in acidic environments, and especially in the presence of vitamin C. I think Piper was aware of that. I don't know how much benzoid he used in this, whatever.
+
+[22:20] Uh, I know this because I was working at the time at a company that produces food supplements, including a berry extract. And due to regulatory changes, we had to change the preservative that we were using. I was researching alternatives and came across this issue. If my memory serves me correctly, I'm sure it does. The major soft drink manufacturers removed benzoit from their products when this problem was identified.
+
+[22:40] I did some accelerated tests incubating at warm temperatures and found that benzene did in fact form when we added benzoit to the product, the berry product they were making. Uh in the end, we chose sorbate, uh which uh uh chose sorbate, which also avoided the problem that a small proportion of people can taste benzoit. I recommend that benzuid not be used in fruit juice applications, or if it is used, that you send samples away for testing so you can determine if benzene does form over the duration that you keep your products. Keep up the great work, Paul. Thanks.
+
+[23:10] I love that kind of follow-up. So that's good information. People can take, you know, it's good stuff. Um we got a Sam writes in, hey Stas. He says, hey Nastasha, because that's what you should say.
+
+[23:23] Uh thanks for answering my questions on the radio show. I now have a request. Dave uh is an undoubted ninja of kitchen ergonomics. I don't know about that. Uh, and layout.
+
+[23:33] Could you see if he will post an in-depth photo tour of his home kitchen? Thanks, Sam. It's not quite done yet, Sam. When I actually get my uh when I get my oven customized, maybe when I get my oven customized. You like my new kitchen better.
+
+[23:46] Yeah. It's really clean. Yeah, but it's like it's galley. Yeah. But all my equipment's new.
+
+[23:51] That's why you like it. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Won't be new for long.
+
+[23:55] I'm sure I'll ruin it. Alright, so Sam, when once I get it done, uh I'll do that. We're getting so I'm still still changing it. Um not quite. It's not quite photo ready yet.
+
+[24:05] Uh Brian writes in from San Diego about Koji, which has been uh the topic that I've been remiss in uh getting the information on we've had a lot about. Hey cooking issues crew, long time listener. I don't have a question, but was listening to your show and also wondering about how to make uh aspergillus. I can never pronounce it uh like orizia, you know, the right, the rice based one, the one that they use for Koji, aspergillus spores to make koji. Uh in case the Mama Fu uh Fuku uh whoa, really?
+
+[24:28] I can't say Mamafuku now. In case the Momofuku people don't get back to you, Dave, I found a couple of resources on the web, which you may or may not already know about. It seems publicly available information on this topic is scarce. Uh one is uh um uh Taylor Taylor made uh aka.org uh growing koji for home brewing sake. Uh and the other one is of course well known the Nordicfoodlab.org, their blog uh and their thing Koji history and process.
+
+[24:53] And the Nordic Food Lab, for all of you that don't know, is a great resource. Like, you know, they they do a great job. They they document everything they do, and they're very open source about information, they don't hide information, and they do a lot of work with uh Koji and they publish it. So I actually went to the uh tab you sent me and it it's uh it's it's good. And of course, uh Shirtleaf, who, you know, as we anyone who's heard me say knows that I learned uh you know most of what I know about tofu from uh shirtleaf, even though he uh you know basically called me a jerk for asking whether I could use edamame to make uh tofu.
+
+[25:25] He was like, Why would you do that? Are you you you're evil? He thinks I'm an evil well, in the one phone conversation you had with me, he basically he intimated that he wouldn't want to uh have dinner with me and that he uh thought I was a bad human being. I mean, he didn't come out and say it like that, but that's just a vibe I got over the phone. You know what I mean?
+
+[25:42] He's like, why is this Eastern son of a whatever? He doesn't say he doesn't talk that way. He's like all peace and love and whatever. Uh but anyway, uh his website, WWF.soyinfocenter.com uh books forward slash one five four history of koji um is there. But I looked up uh an interesting article um because the the issue is this look, everyone knows you can make koji you can buy the you can buy the you know the koji can the seeds for it and and do it.
+
+[26:09] The question we had a while back was how do you know if it's safe? And the problem is is that uh some strains of uh aspergillus, right? Um like flavis and whatnot can produce uh aflatoxin. And aflatoxin, you know, for those of you that you know pay attention to this sort of thing, you want to stay away from because even minute quantities, it's one of those no known safe kind of exposure things because minute quantities can be like viciously carcinogenic. And so this is why we screen things like peanuts, which can grow aflatoxin for um you know, for for the growth of it and and whatnot.
+
+[26:42] So the the question is, why uh don't people get poisoned all the time from um things that are done made with koji because they're all done with different uh aspargilla strains? And how is it that you can select for the safe ones uh in i in an in a non in a in a in a either home, wild or pre you know industrial setting, how do you choose to and make sure that you only get the ones that don't produce aflatoxin? So there's a and a lot of people have taken done studies and shown that the um that aflatoxin uh is not present in products commercially that are produced with uh koji molds, right? So thing, you know, soy's and misos and things like that. And then a couple of ones have shown that that miso uh miso itself is not hospitable for uh the production of aflatoxin, but it's aged for a long time.
+
+[27:37] So the question you want to know is how can I guarantee that the mold that I'm growing right now on my koji is safe to use right now, not necessarily in an aged product, uh not necessarily in in a secondary product, but how do I guarantee that it's safe in all points of its uh existence? And it's an interesting problem. And as of 2001, which is the last article uh that I have on it, uh they hadn't really a hundred percent solved it, but the the most interesting article I saw on it was called uh aflatoxin genes uh and the uh aflatoxinogenic potential. That's a good word, right? Aflot I can't say I gotta try that twice.
+
+[28:14] Afflatoxidogen, whatever, of Koji molds by um oh my god, I can't read my writing on it, what the uh person's name was. Uh broke, it was a it was the last name, B R Oh no, Vanderbroke, Vanderbrooke, P. Vanderbroke, uh, 2001. Uh, and it was interesting. So, what they said was is look, they analyzed a bunch of um strains of aspergillus that they found in various products that have been produced, some uh kind of artisanal wild fermentation types and some commercial types.
+
+[28:46] They found in uh that it in that they found some uh strains of normal asperg aspargillus oaks. I can't pronounce that. I can't I don't know why it's got a mental block on it, I can't do it. Uh that actually had the genes encoded in them to uh some of the genes encoded in them to that to produce aflatoxin, but did not in fact produce aflatoxin, which is difficult if you want to make a rapid assay to make sure that there's no aflatoxin in it, right? Uh they also found um certain uh aspergillus flavus uh uh molds in there that that were aflatoxin producing strains, but they didn't find any aflatoxin.
+
+[29:23] Now, the Nordic uh food lab has a couple of points on this where they say, look at uh, you know, the the um aflatoxin when it's produced, those strains that produce that tend to inhibit yeast growth. And so people that are doing things like brewing sake, where you have a lot of alcohol involved, over time uh the only aspergillus strains that don't produce aflatoxin are selected out, and so that's how the safety goes. But we're not talking about that because we're not talking about maintaining a culture for you know generations. We're talking about uh a wild thing and how to prove it's safe. So here's what's interesting.
+
+[29:55] These guys said, look, we we we made a bunch of koji and uh it didn't produce uh aflatoxin, right? So they said, okay, uh, I'm gonna take a uh a strain of aspergillus that's known to produce aflatoxin, like one that we bought specifically to produce aflatoxin. And they because they their their thing was, well, maybe this because like uh koji fermentation is solid state fermentation under very particular circumstances for fairly short periods of time. So they said, okay, look it. We're gonna put the uh we're gonna we're gonna put this known aflatoxin generator into uh typical koji production, and lo and behold, it produced m like zero almost like hyper trace amounts of aflatoxin.
+
+[30:38] So they're like, hey, that's pretty safe. So they're like, well, maybe it's something about the the actual substrate that they're we're growing it on that's stopping it produced. So instead of running it for 24 hours, they ran it for like a week or something like this. And after a week of incubation or a week and a half, then there were measurable and meaningful amounts of aflatoxin present. So uh their conclusion, which I think is interesting, is that uh m these strains that can produce aflatoxin take longer to start producing the aflatoxin in the solid state fermentation that we do in Koji, uh take longer to produce the aflatoxin than typically they would have to produce it w when you're making the koji.
+
+[31:15] So if you're gonna use a wild fermentation of Koji, then I wouldn't let that aspect of the fermentation go on longer than you know, like you know, the day or so it it takes to do it. Uh and I would read that article because it made for interesting reading, but that's the closest I could get for an answer on how can you guarantee without having uh you know uh a a microbiology lab present, how can you guarantee the safety of any given wild uh koju that you're making? Do you think that's a good final answer on that? I think that's great. You don't care.
+
+[31:46] Whatever. Uh you you know what you know you know that you need that feedback. And you know what you guys you know what you guys don't get? You don't get the look on Stas's face. It's like it's like uh someday I'll be able to describe it.
+
+[31:58] She's like, Yeah, great. Uh I know you need the feedback. Yeah, so it was great. Kyle Kleeburg, I like that name Kleeberg. Kleberg, because I like Stan Freeberg.
+
+[32:08] Have you ever heard of Stan Freeberg? No. No comedian? No. From the 50s.
+
+[32:11] He was an advertising guy, like uh kind of I guess pre-mad maybe pre-madmen, yeah, pre-madmen era advertising guy who uh he did a bunch of radio shows. Anyway. For those of you who are uh history of advertising buffs and like uh 50s comedians, Stan Freeberg's the man. Anyway, uh Kyle Kleeburg says, Hey there, I've got a question for the cooking issues. Our restaurant recently acquired 100 pounds, 100 pounds of high quality spot prawns, and it just so spot prawns.
+
+[32:39] You like spot prawns? You ever have that? It's West Coast, but it's northern. You never hang out up there, right? Like BC and all that stuff.
+
+[32:45] Uh they're supposedly good. Like I, you know, we don't get them here. You know, like at least I don't get them here. Uh, of high quality spot prawns, and as it just so happens about two-thirds of them were carrying eggs. Well, discussing a plan, my chef in his infinite wisdom took a ninth pan full of roe and tossed it into the vita prep with a healthy dose of neutral oil to make shrimp oil.
+
+[33:07] As you can imagine, we ended up with about six cups of shrimp aioli. Yes, because it has eggs. They will emulsify the hell out of stuff. Anyways, uh, so I came to you guys with questions hoping you can help me write this. First, would the eggs of prawns be called roe or coral?
+
+[33:24] And secondly, is there a way to purposely break this emotion? Break this emotion. Take these broken wings and learn to fly again. Yeah, that learn to live so free. Yeah, the deal is that.
+
+[33:39] No. Is that learn to flag and learn to live so free? Really? I think so. No, no, that's different.
+
+[33:44] It's different. Jack will know. Jack or Joe will know. Anyway. And second, is there a way to purposely break this emulsion and turn it back to an oil of some sort while maintaining the flavor of the raw eggs?
+
+[33:54] If this is a lost cause, I still think uh I still have some reserve to make the compound butter, which I hope will be a better plan. However, if I've learned a thing from listening to cooking issues, it's the things are not always as simple as they seem. Thanks, Kyle Kleberg, uh the police in uh I what's ID I wondered. Washington, I understand. Maybe Idaho.
+
+[34:14] Really? Like on the border? Really? I don't know. Uh okay, so listen, first of all, when you say carrying eggs, I'm presuming you meaning on the outside on their swimmerettes.
+
+[34:23] Uh so here's the deal. So decapod uh you know, crustaceans, the way that they the way that they do their the way that they do their business. First of all, interesting, spot prawns. Uh if you want a little uh thing about uh spot prawns, and I got some of this information from it. W W dot organicocean.com.
+
+[34:39] It's brought pawn, and I can't remember because it's been a long, long time since I've done my uh I me I I I went through a kick where I read a lot of lobster biology stuff because I was thinking about writing an article for the New York Times and they they they wanted me to prove that uh whether or not lobsters could feel pain. I was like, I can't I can't do that. That's not possible. Anyway, uh so I can't remember whether lobsters do this, but uh spa prawns are cool because uh they're big and delicious, apparently, but they uh they change sex. Then they become females, then they do their eggs, and then and that this when they're changing their sex, they're called trannies.
+
+[35:13] How awesome is that? That's what it says according to the website. Anyway, um so anyway, in decapod crustaceans, when the females are gonna lay the eggs. Typically, when you have uh a lobster and you have what's called the coral. Do you like that?
+
+[35:24] The red stuff when it's cooked out? Mm-hmm. Yeah. Uh when you have the coral as opposed to the tamale, which is like kind of the guts. Do you like the tamale?
+
+[35:31] But you like the coral. Okay. Uh good to know. Uh so I don't really like uh okay, you uh I'll lay it out on you. I'm not a huge fan of the tamale, like I can eat a little bit of it, but I don't want to pound that stuff.
+
+[35:43] You know what I mean? You know? No. Anyways, so uh the coral is the eggs on the inside of the lobster, right? No one, at least not on this coast, eats the and a when I say when you when you say that the shrimps are carrying eggs, I think you mean on the outside of the shrimp, right?
+
+[36:00] So what happens is is uh the lobster, or in this case the shrimp, passes the egg from the inside of its body to the outside, and as it gets passed to the outside, that's when it gets fertilized, and then it glues it to the underside of its body. So when you get a lobster out, a female lobster out of the uh out of the water, you look at the bottom of, yeah, no, lobsters stay females. They stay freaking females. They don't do this weird tranny stuff. Anyways, uh what am I thinking?
+
+[36:24] So they turn it over and they're called buried, right? They're not like buried like in the ground, like not like gravad locks lobster, but like buried like knots berry farm. And uh, because they put the eggs all on the underside of their body. Now, lobster folk, when they get uh buried lobsters, are supposed to uh throw them back, like notch the tail and throw them back because they know that's a producing female, right? And you want to leave the producing females in the water so that they make more lobsters because that's your bread and butter, right?
+
+[36:55] You know? So you so you never get buried, you get females, but you never get ones that are buried because they throw them back. So um so, anyways, so I wouldn't I would not call it coral because as far as I know, coral is only when it's on the inside of the animal. And since these have made it to the outside and are fertilized, right, presumably they I don't know whether the fertilization makes them change uh flavor or texture or what. I have no idea because I uh you know I don't have uh any uh experience with it.
+
+[37:24] But uh interesting, uh, these guys at Organic Ocean said don't uh they said some spot prawns are brought in from the United States where they are caught sooner, smaller, and often buried, i.e. before spawning and with eggs attached. Uh one Asian grocer is selling live uh British Columbia spot prawns, which uh would have to have been for the United States. The BC season opens later when the prawns have grown to full size and are about to die naturally. So buyer beware.
+
+[37:52] So organic ocean believes that you uh they that you know they I I guess they lay eggs and then and then uh and then they croak, right? Because it says uh they say that while BC spot prawns are hermaphroditic, born as males, the female sex organs on their tails become more pronounced at about two years of age, at which point they refer to as transitioning prawns or trannies, uh, with the final two years of their four-year lifespan sent as females. So they do their spawning and then and then they're ready to ready to die, so you should take it afterwards. So that's just on whether to call it coral or whether they call it um roe. I would call it row or eggs.
+
+[38:27] Now, on the breaking of it, you've you have very few people who want to break uh this kind of uh egg emulsion, and uh I wasn't able to find anything offhand that would break it. The only easy thing that I thought you could you could do two things. One, you can add so much oil to it that it um that it breaks, right? Because that's one way to break a mayonnaise is to is to ext is to stop adding water and to just add enough oil, like you know, 95%, so that you actually start breaking the emulsion and you get oil coalescence. That should work, but the problem with that is you will be adding so much uh uh oil to it that you probably won't have the flavor transfer.
+
+[39:10] The other thing, and you might have already tried this, um, is you might it because you said I I don't know whether I read it, but you know, you intimated that you didn't want to heat it because you didn't want to change the flavor, right? Didn't he say that? Did he say that? Yeah. Um I would uh freeze it.
+
+[39:25] I would freeze it and then thaw it and then freeze it and then thaw it and then freeze it and you thaw. Each time you freeze thaw, you should be destabilizing um that emulsion. And hopefully, after one or two freeze uh thaw cycles, because you haven't added any stabilizers other than the stabilizers naturally present in the uh prawn eggs, hopefully uh uh it'll break, and then you'll be able to get uh, you know, and if you have a centrifuge, obviously I would freeze thaw and then try the centrifuge. But that that should work. And the and you know, I would stop it from I would not let it get exposed to oxygen while you're doing all that freestyling.
+
+[40:00] Uh, but you know, so like put it in a vac bag or in a zippy and then freeze thaw a couple times and see whether it works. But if you try it, please uh send me the answer because I want to know whether whether it worked, right? Mm-hmm. Yeah. Uh okay, Kurt writes in.
+
+[40:14] Hello, everybody. Uh I've just recently become head bartender of a restaurant in Cambridge, Massachusetts, right next to the MIT campus. The building complex that we are in hosts the Cambridge Science Festival every year. I bet you that's a pretty good science festival. Yeah.
+
+[40:27] Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Uh, and has asked if we would like to be a part of it. I've been using a handful of modern techniques behind the bar, pectin X slash agar clarification, carbonation, EC infusions, uh, and the like.
+
+[40:41] I added the at the like, it wasn't in there. Uh so the chef decided I'd be the best candidate for the job. I made an off the cuff comment about how cool it would be to have a rotovap and centrifuge to play around with for this presentation. And a day later I got an email uh asking exactly what I needed for equipment. These guys have a lot of lab connections.
+
+[41:00] I've attached the email I've received with some questions about equipment. Also, also, I'll be giving a presentation to 75 to 100 people, which I've not done before, and was wondering if you might have any general advice on giving demos to an audience like that. I clearly plan on ignoring that gem of advice that Thomas Keller gave you last week where he called me an idiot. Uh thanks, Kurt. Okay.
+
+[41:21] Uh and uh the attached questions are uh regarding the centrifugion rotovap, uh I have a few ideas on who to ask, but a few questions for you. What size centrifuge? Do you need tubes? What size rotovap? I assume you need a vacuum for the rotovap.
+
+[41:35] And what about the cleanliness of a rotovap? Um typically the flasks are used are clean in a glass cleaner and autoclay, but is this okay for food? Uh especially if they've previously been used with dangerous chemicals, um, etc. etc. Okay, so look it.
+
+[41:48] So a lot depends. Uh let's start with the centrifuge. Let's start with the presentation, right? When you're gonna do a technique, uh when you're gonna do a demo for a lot of people with modern techniques, people like to see rotovaps run, right? Stas, we've done that a bunch of times.
+
+[42:02] That's very true. Yeah, they like to see it run. Here's the issue. If you aren't really good at running a rotovap, uh you it's gonna take you a while to set the sucker up, and it's gonna take you when you're first setting up a roadovap, assuming you haven't played with one before, uh, and you put food products in, it's gonna boil over. I'm just telling you that right now.
+
+[42:23] It's gonna boil over. And uh that's a nightmare. And let me tell you from experience, you don't want to boil over in front of a big audience because it makes you feel really stupid, right? Right? The other thing that happens is when you're talking during a demo, here's what people don't like.
+
+[42:37] They don't like to sit and have you sit there and stare at the machine for like half an hour while it's distilling, right? So you're gonna have to bring someone with you that after you, you know, wave your hands over it and do the magical touches on it and everything like that and get the sucker running, right? And during that time when you get the sucker running, you can't be talking or doing anything because you're gonna have to make sure the sucker doesn't boil over on you unless, you know, unless you don't want to do a good job. Right. There's always that, right?
+
+[43:00] But uh then you don't want to sit there staring at it, so someone's someone's gotta run it. The other problem with a rotor app is is that rotov apps uh take a long time to produce appreciable amounts of product. So what I would do is choose a product in a roadov app that you can make that uh you can give relatively small tastes of, like really small, like less like quarter ounce, like little skim shot coats, like really strong flavored stuff that you can give small amounts of. I would stay away and and you're gonna want to make them beforehand. So even though things like fresh herbs are the best things to do in roto vap, or one of the best things to do in a roadovap, you don't want to do that because then you can't make that sucker the night before, which brings me to my next point.
+
+[43:39] Never demonstrate a rotor app that you haven't fired up before and run for at least a couple of hours. You're gonna need this rotov app well in advance so that you can A make the product that you're gonna hand out at the event, and B get the hang of using it, right? You're also gonna need a vacuum pump, obviously. You're gonna want as good a vacuum pump as you want. The chem folks don't need a particularly good vacuum pump because they're not worried about getting good recovery of flavor, right?
+
+[44:06] Ideally, what you would like to have is a bunch of liquid nitrogen and a uh and a cold finger, right? Because otherwise you're gonna need a chiller. Because chem folks, they're like, well, just chill it with tap water. Just chill it with tap water. No, that's crap.
+
+[44:19] That's crap flavor. You just that's that's not that's not right. You can't just chill your condenser with uh tap water and expect to get a decent flavor out of it because then first of all, you're gonna need to run your bath at 60 degrees Celsius, right? 140. So like why bother?
+
+[44:33] Then you're you're dealing with we're dealing with 60, then you're dealing with 40 and change as the temperature of your uh of the actual product in there that's being distilled, and you're dealing with 20 degrees, give or take, is the temperature of the tap water that you're running off of circulating through your condenser, and you have a very small temperature difference between your product like and your uh and and and your uh what's it called? Your your chiller. I like to have like very large temperature differences, right? And I like to keep my stuff as cold as possible. So like when I'm running a condenser, a regular condenser, I run it, I'm doing alcohol, which is illegal, but hey, at like minus twenty degrees Celsius, um, and you need a chiller for that.
+
+[45:13] And then and then when you when you bring a chiller into the into the fact, you can run a rotor vap with a water bath and a vacuum pump off of a single socket. You can't reliably run a rotovap with uh a chiller off of one socket. I've seen them blow in demos all the time. All the time. Here's another thing.
+
+[45:33] People are gonna so so I if you can't get the liquid nitrogen, get it. If not, get a chiller or find something that you can do hotter and it's not gonna hurt it like chocolate, you know, like like cocoa nibs or something like that, but they they they boil over. Another thing get the biggest freaking distillation flask that you can get, right? They now everyone's always gonna be like, here's a liter flask, and they're gonna give you one with the tiny little freaking uh what's what's the thing I'm looking for? Um holding up tiny, what's this what's this word, Stas?
+
+[46:00] Neck. Neck, tiny neck. Uh and and the problem is it's hard to load stuff in and out of it, and they tend to boil over more violently with the thing when they boil over. So you want a big as a flask as possible. Never fill it more than a quarterful, especially when you're learning, otherwise you're gonna have boilover problems, right?
+
+[46:16] Get the biggest around, it's called vapor duct, which is how they the actual vapor gets transferred into the condenser area. The biggest one uh you can. They chem folks always mess up, they always give you the small thing. Why? Because they're very rarely doing rotary evaporation in quantity, they're doing it for uh more like for analysis, and so it's not they don't they don't deal usually in the in like kind of this large style quantities that we're dealing with.
+
+[46:39] Um, are some of the recommendations. They also like there's inherent problems with most roto vaps in that the stuff that's being distilled down isn't getting chilled properly, so you're gonna want to chill the receiver uh so that you don't redistill off of it too many times. Um on centrifuges, you know, i it if if they're gonna let you use one, uh yeah, get new buckets. I mean, uh I almost exclusively use three-liter bench top centrifuges, uh swinging bucket centrifuges, and they're great for cocktails, great, along with pectanex. Um, but you know, if you if they have a 500mm fixed liter rotor that you know has uh you know uh uh those the tubes in it and a handle f you know, you just do a couple more spins in those.
+
+[47:19] They usually do higher G's anyway, and some of those things, you know, I wouldn't use it for everyday restaurant service, but for a demo, you can get a couple extra spins out of it. I once uh in Columbia did a demo for a hundred more than a hundred people using uh that tiny two hundred dollar centrifuge we got on Amazon. I just had to sit there for four hours spinning, you know, tiny tube after tiny tube. So you can get uh an any of that uh you know that you that you need. Um oh so for size on the rotovap, the size itself of the rotovap's not so important.
+
+[47:47] You want a three liter uh flask uh and probably like a like a one liter receiver. Uh if you can get a uh um an LN um a cold finger condenser for it uh do that. On the cleaning I'd be a little careful. I don't know what kind of chem presumably the people who have it know what kind of chemicals have been put into it. If you can get new glassware get new glassware.
+
+[48:09] Um there there can be some persistent nasties that get into uh into stuff especially well anyway but I mean they they try to make them nice 'cause they're glass and they're you know non absorptive things like Teflon and what whatnot but you know be be cautious. The other thing is is uh try to get um certain brands of rotary evaporator are horrible. Uh you know I use uh Bukey Hideolf is good. Uh you want to get glassware that's coated in uh plastic. It's called plast glass.
+
+[48:36] And when you look at it you can see that it's got a coating on it because it's a little bit wavy. Uh and uh if it doesn't have that you need to wear safety goggles at all times because uh if it's really clear looking glass it means it hasn't been coated and uh those could implode at any minute and send shards of glass flying around uh into your into your eyes. Which uh doesn't make uh for a good demo. Turns out it makes for a for a bad demo. Uh but whenever you're doing technology, be sure to have your products done beforehand because I've had anything and everything go wrong on stage, right?
+
+[49:10] And so luckily, because everybody knows that I'm kind of uh discombobulated and disorganized anyway, I can just kind of smile and shake my head and it all seems to go away, at least most of the time, right, Stas? True. True. But that only works if you have the product beforehand to make sure that uh no one's leaving empty-handed. I'm also uh whenever anyone's uh demonstrating new techniques, and for any of you out there, uh, and uh hopefully you all do, you know, use uh some of these um new techniques, when you go demonstrate them.
+
+[49:43] Uh I really believe that you should hand out tastes of things whenever possible from what you're doing. And uh the reason is it's really easy to get a piece of fancy equipment and put it up on stage and have people be like, wow, that's really that's cool, that's awesome. Uh but what the the real challenge is is showing people that they're not just like weird science tricks or gimmicks, that they actually can produce delicious products. And so you know it's uh I I've always been a fan of uh handing people things to taste at the demos to prove that what you're showing them on stage isn't just some BS that you're doing for a gimmick. And that's that cooking issues.
+
+[50:29] Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritageradio network.org. Heritage Radium Network is a nonprofit organization.
+
+[50:53] To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by S. Wallace Edwards and Sons, a third generation Cure Masters producing the country's best dry cured and aged hams, bacon, and sausage. For more information, visit SurreyFarms.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more.
+
+[0:46] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you live from Aberna's Pizzeria on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from around 12 to around one o'clock. Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, a little bit late to the studio today, a victim, I think, of the New York City subway system. But call your questions to 7184972128. That's 718497-2128.
+
+[1:06] And uh don't worry. Who's the program brought to who's doing it today? It's uh S. Wallace Edwards and Son. Oh, yeah!
+
+[1:34] S. Wallace Edwards, home of one of my favorite American country hams. Now, uh, you know, Sam Edwards, who is, I don't know, like billionth generation uh ham carrying guy. He uh, you know, he he and I have this one disagreement, and every time I mention him on the air, and every time I see him in person, I say this. He markets his uh one of his excellent um, you know, uh at least one year old age kind of you know, not not semi ambient cured uh hams, meaning that uh they're refrigerated um during the curing, the actual curing process so that they don't spoil, but then are allowed to age ambiently, you know, for upwards of a month, uh, which I think are you know delicious.
+
+[2:12] Uh and and he makes them actually with Heritage uh foods, uh uh what's the word I'm looking for? Heritage Breed Pork. And they're delicious, but he markets those as Surianos, Surrey being the county in Virginia where they are, you know, uh, you know, kind of the classic, you know, one of the classic places for American country hams. By the way, all American country hams, almost all American country hams, are fundamentally derived from the culture of uh uh Tywater, Virginia, because uh it started there and then, you know, rem remember like everything or everything from there over, like through Kentucky was V Virginia back in the day. And most of these, you know, a lot of these families have curing roots that date back to um at or prior to the uh American Revolution.
+
+[2:55] So I mean it's there's a long history of it there. I don't know where that could start with. So anyway, so he's calling it Suriano as like Serrano and uh and Surrey because, you know, well over a decade ago, gosh, it's gotta be we well over a decade ago, you know, uh, you know, he decided that uh the kind of hams that he was producing in America uh were not receiving their just due and thought they were most like uh some of the ham mountain hams. Serrano just means mountain ham, you know, uh in uh in Spain, and so kind of you know was kind of joining the idea of this American ham with kind of this quality of mountain ham that he had had in in Spain. And uh, you know, my feeling has always been uh American ham is an American ham, sell it as an American ham, and Sam Edwards uh, you know, as much as I love and respect uh his products and he you know he's a good guy, just call it American.
+
+[3:48] What do you think? Anyone? Anyone? No, not anyone cares. Only me.
+
+[3:52] Uh but anyways, that wasn't what we were talking about. We were talking about what were we talking about? We were talking about uh oh, Steve Jenkins last week from Fairway, who is our sponsor last week, and uh we'd had a bit uh a little discussion uh about like what voiceover actor uh he sounded like, and so the other John Stewart writes in uh regarding Steve Jenkins from Fairway and who does he sound like to me, he sounds like Alec Baldwin, who does lots of voiceover work, which is weird because you mentioned Alec Baldwin only minutes later, uh, and it didn't make and I did and didn't make the connection. So perhaps you disagree. I threw audio of the two into this link, pretty similar, but perhaps not who Dave was thinking of.
+
+[4:30] And then uh there's a lake, which maybe we can play later with playing uh, you know, Steve Jenkins side by side with Alec Baldwin, or maybe we can just call that up somehow. And you know what, uh John, you're dead on, man. Those that's exactly what it is. It's Alec Baldwin, but it's kind of one of those things. Voiceovers freak me out a little bit.
+
+[4:46] Like uh, you know, I was watching this stuff and uh, you know, commercial commercials come on because I have a TV now and the kids watch it. I watch it. Come on, come on, please. Uh but the um commercials come on, I'm like, oh my god, is that Magnum P.I. is Tom Selleck doing voiceover work?
+
+[4:58] I mean, it's not like it's there's you know it and Morgan Freeman, by the way. I don't know if any of you guys watch the Olympics, Morgan Freeman literally like I think he was like sitting around on call waiting for people to win medals because he would congratulate them on the medal that they won like 10 seconds after, or did he record every permutation of every American winning every medal? He's like, Congratulations on your bronze. You know what? Anyway, whatever.
+
+[5:19] Voiceovers. Amazing. So, uh, John, you're totally right. Alec Baldwin is uh the call. Alec Baldwin, of course, whose voice is amazing.
+
+[5:27] Uh, but uh John also has a question. I've been bagging all of my low temp food using your Ziploc method for years. The food saver uh vacuum never looked like it had much advantage over the Ziploc technique and doesn't really seem to pull a hard vacuum. Therefore, it never seemed useful for bagging where you want to uh uh use a vacuum to pull your marinade into a product, for example. But I just ran across the Thrifty Vac, uh, which you can see on uh the YouTube.
+
+[5:50] It's a thrifty vac, I think one word and vac is VAC. Thrifty is spelled thrifty as in someone who is thrifty. Uh, and it's cheap. It's on the Amazon.com, uh, and you can look at it's like 22 bucks. Uh what fundamentally, uh, well, I'll finish the question.
+
+[6:05] And it looks like this might be able to pull a harder vacuum uh than uh he's saying, I guess presumably than a food saver. Do you think this looks useful as a uh poor person's vacuum chamber, or is it not likely to pull a hard enough vacuum to be any better than the Ziploc method, thanks the other John Stewart. Yeah, okay. So I took a look at this uh device, and for those of you out there uh who you know haven't seen it or you know aren't on the internets right now, though, although how you listen to us if you're not on the internets, um, the what it is is is it's a one-way valve and a little kind of like a like a boxy piece of plastic and a one-way valve that you put onto uh a large bag, you know, Ziploc or other, uh, and it punctures the bag and then it comes with a little little uh you know like uh sucking device, almost like a larger version of a vacuvan uh pulling thing. And you stick a a ziploc inside of the other bag that's f almost seals.
+
+[7:00] So it's the same as the as the the technique, the dun the water technique, by the way, which is what I use at home because I don't have a vacuum machine at home, is I seal almost entirely seal a vacuum uh ziploc bag. Ziploc, by the way, when you buy a Ziploc bag, first of all, like GLAD bags work, I'll admit, but like I always buy the brand name bags because off brands suck. Never get the ones that have two layers of plastic, get the single layer. Get also the freezer uh ones because they're much better gas barriers than the regular ones, and never get the ones with the slidey doodles. I do not trust the sealing capability of the sliding doodles.
+
+[7:31] Get the ones that have the old school just zipper, you know, the just the you not a zipper, but like just you know the the seal without the slide doodle, right? So you seal it almost all the way up uh and then you just leave the very corner unsealed. You put your finger in it, lift it by that corner, it now forms a diamond, and you immerse it under the water. As you immerse underwater slowly, you kind of you know force the air out from around it, and and presumably your product is surrounded by some form of liquid on the inside of the bag, oil, sauce, whatever. And uh and the air, once excluded, never comes back in because the water, the pressure of the water excludes it, and then at right as the tip of the bag goes underneath, you seal it with your with your uh you pinch it sealed, and it's done.
+
+[8:11] And this is the way I do almost everything. It makes a fantastic seal. It doesn't create a vacuum, but it does exclude air, which is 99% of what we want to do when we're doing low temperature cooking, unless you're doing a vacuum effect. Okay. So what this thing does is it allows you to put a ziploc inside of uh another bag with a one-way valve.
+
+[8:31] Uh, but in other in other ways, it's similar. You leave a little corner of the ziploc un unpressed, you pull the vacuum, you push the uh seal shut while it's inside of another bag, and then you pull it out and it's sealed. Uh it's not really that kind of a vacuum pump that they're using, that piston vacuum pump is never gonna pull a uh a decent um vacuum. Anyway, so we have a caller. I'm gonna get the caller and then I come back and talk more about uh the the the this vacuum machine and kind of what I think it's good for and what what it doesn't do.
+
+[8:58] Anyway, caller, you're on the air. Hello, this is Martin from Vienna calling. Oh, hey, how you doing? Um I'm fine, thank you. How are you?
+
+[9:07] Doing well, I love Vienna. I've only been to your town for a couple of days, but it seemed very nice when I was there. Uh yeah, it is. Have you been to a Wurstelstand? Uh did you dict uh the famous cheese sausage?
+
+[9:20] No. No. The only so I was there literally, I was there for uh EC, the company. I was doing work with them with uh Rapid Infusion and uh I was only there for uh I was only there for like literally like a day and a half, not even two full days. The only thing I got to do, we went to we had a uh we had a you know Schnitzel at the what what's the name of the place that's uh it's a couple blocks from the it's a couple blocks from the opera house.
+
+[9:45] It's like famous for its uh schnitzel. What the heck's the name of it? Like Oapfair something. Uh there is the Fiegelmüller where you get the huge ones. Yeah, I don't think it was that.
+
+[9:55] Or uh the other one is the Plachuta. I have to remember. But it was good, you know, with the lemon wedge and everything. I enjoyed the Viennese potato salad. I did get to visit the market, that long outdoor market that you guys have.
+
+[10:06] What's that called? This mark. Yeah, Nash Mart. That was really cool. And like there's a lot of people there selling uh because I only wanted Austrian products because why would I buy a different product when I'm in Austria, right?
+
+[10:18] So I went through there searching various different kinds of uh uh cured meats and uh cheeses and and different products and thought it was uh it was really nice, but no, I did not get to have the cheese sausage next time. Well no, I did get to have no I didn't. Yeah, yeah. I know we had a sauce. No, I did because when I showed up at lunch for the first day, I showed up and like had to go right to work from the airplane, and they were like, What do you want for lunch?
+
+[10:42] I was like, Wurst, and so they brought a bunch of one. I think one of them was cheese. It was good, but I can't recall the name because they just put it in front of me. They didn't tell me what I was eating. But there was one with cheese in it.
+
+[10:50] What's the name of the what's the name of it? Kesekreiner. Oh yeah, case Krainer. Yeah. Vaspitoid Kraina.
+
+[10:58] Yeah. What does Kriner mean? Well uh Kreiner uh it means it means a sausage coming from Krain, which is uh in Slovenia called Krantska Goda. So that's where where the the the original sausage is coming from. And then the Austrian added the cheese to it and uh made it a Kesekrainer so cheese Krainer, cheese sausage.
+
+[11:21] Well my if my memory serves me that was uh it was a good call adding the adding the case. Yeah. Yeah. Okay, so what's your question? Yeah, yeah.
+
+[11:29] But I have a I have a question about uh uh hydrocholy is about gelatin actually uh because I'm trying to do uh kind of uh uh vodka panakota right and uh I have problems to to get it like stiff freely so and then and no of course that that uh adding alcohol to gelatin uh decreases the the stability of the gel you have in the end but uh I just when I when I when I get it lower uh and the the gelatin sets really nicely uh you cannot taste the vodka anymore so and uh my one uh my question is about how uh high can I get that uh still if you have like a ratio that uh I can still have a a set gelatin with uh with vodka. Well most um most sources that you read usually for uh and and I it's not really based in any sort of reality right they they put they put the upper it's based on kind of rules of thumb they base the upper limit for most um alcohol sensitive hydrocolloids and most of them are because remember it's not water right and the hydrocollides require water to do their work um they usually place the upper limit for normal function somewhere in the range of twenty percent somewhere in that range uh so in general when you're using and that would be like the pure pure alcohol uh range or or or the vodka like twenty percent uh pure pure but but that's but that that's like the upper limit but like the more alcohol that you add to any system right the more uh it depends on the hydrocolloid too the more hydrocolloid that you're you're gonna have to add to get the the same um result so like what give give me your give me your recipe how much uh how much vodka was in there as a percentage of the total uh there was about like uh I I took uh two two parts cream and one part uh part uh vodka so so one third was vodka which would be like one sixth a bit less though almost something like twenty percent uh uh uh alcohol I guess in the end so that should be fine well remember those cream isn't all water either right so you got you got cream which is not all water although it's not it's the it shouldn't affect it the same way but um what and and what percentage more than the normal gelatin did you use? Uh I I just like uh I I use the the the kind of sheets that I would normally use, like uh uh I don't know, uh six teats on on half a liter. No So I mean I would just I mean if you haven't tried up like and and it was too it was too soft, right? Or did it not set at all?
+
+[14:24] Yeah. Did was it with the it it was too soft because my my idea is that in the end I I put uh a liquid shell of uh of cough in it. So basically it's a reconstruction of uh of a white Russian. Uh and and uh whenever I try to get uh the liquid shell in it, uh eventually it would break uh because it's just not brittle enough. Uh so that or not not stiff enough.
+
+[14:50] Right. A couple of things you can do. You can up the gelatin concentration, right? I mean that's the first obvious thing to up the gelatin concentration. Yeah.
+
+[14:57] Uh by like I wouldn't, you know, don't do anything drastic like double it because you don't have that much alcohol in it. So I would up it, I would up it like um I would up it like maybe twenty-five percent or something like this, and see whether or not that adds enough. Were you close to getting it? Was it close to the right texture or not? Uh it it I mean it's not bad.
+
+[15:21] It is it is stiff, it is it is like uh a set gel, but it's it's just it's it's not easy to handle in in like when I try to put in the the liquid gel itself. So uh I just it it would eventually it would I I have like a failure of almost fifty percent of pieces when I cut in in cubes that would fall apart. Right. So and that uh just it's just not stiff enough. Maybe maybe just to raise uh the the gelatin would would help or then I gelatin's good that way in that erasing it doesn't so like a lot of other hydrocolloids when you raise their percentages uh you get a lot of nasty kind of textural effects and you get a lot of nasty kind of taste effects when you up them uh to the point where you get their like the functionality right, whereas gelatin is pretty friendly that way.
+
+[16:11] I mean, if it they mean once you start getting very high percentages on uh any hydrocolloid, you get a lot of flavor masking because you know a lot of the water which is delivering the like you know, some of the water b you know the water-based section of the flavor component is locked up in uh in a hydrocolloid matrix. And so you tend to get very poor flavor release. And the reason why gelatin is so good and why it's used in these is not just because its texture is awesome, but because it tends to mount melt at uh mouth temperature and um you know and thereby you know, r release and s almost get like a hundred you know, hundred percent flavor release. The only other ones that have kind of such excellent flavor release are ones that are used in kind of very in very low um quantities, like gel-an, right? But if you were going to switch to a different gelling medium for this like gel-an, the problem you're gonna run into is you have to um you have to ensure that um you you know you're gonna have to uh you're gonna have to heat it to a high temperature and then get your alcohol in before it gets down at set temperature, right?
+
+[17:12] Because the gel-an's like a snap set, but the other problem is is that at really high temperatures that you need to hydrate things like gel- and you can't get alcohol that high. Now you can get around it. I've made alcohol fluid gels all the time with both agar and with and you know, an agar might be another thing too, because you can make agar you can make agar um a lot softer if you put uh locust bean gum in it or some some a modifier like that. And you can you can get um you know, or a kapac capacaraginin L B G is the classic one that people use to do gelatin analogs, and you might be able to harden that one up more and have you know uh and it you know you'll definitely know faster because it sets a lot faster than gelatin does. And I've done plenty of agar gels at twenty percent alcohol, plenty.
+
+[17:56] Uh because I used to do, you know, as for for demos, I used to do um I used to do like fluid like alcoholic fluid gels, you know, all the time that were you know right around twenty percent. So I know that I know that that system works well, but I think the gelatin will probably work well for you if you just up the percentage slightly. And uh well, slightly like 20, 20 try twenty percent and see whether or not you get because you what you really want is you want it to be just at the failure point, right? You want it to hold itself, you want to be able to handle it, move it around and plate it, but you don't really want any more than that, right? And then that's what gelatin's so good at, it's is its seeming delicacy uh when it's you know, you know, there.
+
+[18:35] But the yeah, but then you you run into the other issues if it's breaking and and then if your kitchen's hot or whatnot, I don't know how well a control you have over the temperature in the kitchen, but you know, when gelatin gets close uh to being too soft and then it gets warm, it's like you know, you're done, you're you're done. You know, it's and you're never gonna be able to handle the product. But I think you should be able to do it by just by increasing at those levels. If you were saying that you were going to do straight vodka, I'm saying, well that's you know, problematic. But you know, I've done plenty of uh you know, up to 15% alcohol with gelatin just by upping the gelatin, even ones that have to withstand fairly uh you know rigorous you know conditions, like uh I've done carbonated alcohol uh gel regular gelatin gels up at those percentages.
+
+[19:19] Uh at least 14 because I've done you know pretty high high uh alcohol wines that way. Uh just but but by jacking the gelatin somewhat. Yeah. Uh by the way, when when I when I would like put the cream, the uh with gelatin and and and vodka and everything like still warm into uh ISI and then spray it like to make like whipped cream, would the gelatin hold the shape or or would it be uh well so I mean gelatin by the way also like with cream if you get well like anything over about 20% the cream's gonna start being in danger of breaking. Like that's kind of like the magic place of cream uh cream liquors without any sort of added protecting uh things in it.
+
+[20:04] You could protect the cream, obviously, uh, you know, with various agents to stop it from breaking, but uh including gelatin, that's what the Kemique thing is made out of. But anyway, uh gel yeah, gelatin can be used as the foaming agent in an ISI with that. However, like if you want it to hold, if you want to do like a if you want to make this recipe in an ISI and have it hold indefinitely, really dense, cre like dense, dense, dense texture. Um what percentage cream is it to the to the fluid gel? I mean to the gel?
+
+[20:34] Is it like you'd say a third? The uh full uh uh what percentage cream is it a third you said to the vodka you mean? Or yeah, no, it's like it's like three parts, three parts, uh two parts vodka mix, one part cream. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[20:50] No, two parts cream and one part vodka. Oh, yeah, okay, no problem. So what I would do is I would lower, I would lower the this should be fine. Like you you're down, you're down more like you know, fifteen percent or something like this. You should be okay just by upping the jet.
+
+[21:03] But try this, right? Yeah. Take your take the the vodka, do uh make a I think it should work at around one one one percent. Take let I'll just give you some random numbers to try. Take uh 500 mils of water, uh yeah, do 500 mils of water and then um uh 10 10 grams of don't you don't have to make the full recipe, I'm just giving you numbers that are easy to remember.
+
+[21:28] 500 grams of water, 10 uh 10 grams of agar, uh cold, obviously, hydrate the the the agar, you know, whisk it in cold, bring it up to heat, simmer it for two minutes, temper in 500 mils of uh vodka, right? Uh let it set into a uh 1% uh gel. It should be fairly firm, even at that, even at that 20%. If it's not, you can uh try it at a slightly higher agar percentage, right? Now blend it in a blender.
+
+[21:56] So now you have a vodka fluid gel. Now that's only 50% vodka, right? But instead of doing two cream to one, lean it make it a little leaner and do one to one cream with that vodka stuff in an ISI. And as long as the fluid gel worked, which I'd have to test it to make sure that it exactly at 20 that the agar works, that is going to be dense, dense, dense. So a lot of times when I'm trying to do very dense ISI foams, I do fluid gel reinforced uh cream bases, and they work they work really well.
+
+[22:24] And in fact, you can do things that would normally curdle cream, like you can do lemon juice and eventually it'll curdle, but because a lot of the lemon juice is locked up inside of a fluid gel, it doesn't break the the cream right away, and the stuff that's foamed out lasts like a long, long, long time. But the one thing I will say is that when you're putting a fluid gel into an ISI, um you you remember it's a fluid gel. So when you when you point the ISI down, it doesn't naturally run down to the bottom of the ISI and dispense. You have every time you dispense it, you have to put your finger over the uh over the dispensing um uh tip and and flick the canister down so that you're sure that you have all the fluid gel packed against the head so that when you dispense it, it's actually there. But it's a fantastic way to do uh reinforced creams.
+
+[23:10] And I like I do reinforced creams with like very high acid fruits all the time that way, and I'm pretty sure it would work with an alcohol fluid gel as well. Okay, thank you very much. No problem. Uh I am by By the way, I I won I won uh ISI uh um siphon by mentioning you really um because they had they had like this this uh thing before Christmas, they would give out like free ISI uh uh siphons. Just you have to write them why you want to use it.
+
+[23:41] And I mentioned uh because I like the ignor uh Dave Arnold's uh quick infusion tank and I would like to use it, and that's how I won my ISI. Oh beautiful. I just had another uh idea by the way. You might be able to hydrate the agar in uh in like milk or cream uh and then uh put the vodka into it and dope it, and that way you wouldn't have to have all that water, but you'd have to play around with it to make sure it would work. But I think that might also be a solution that'll stop you from having to uh add the extra water.
+
+[24:13] But give it a shot, try it. Okay. Yeah, thank you very much. Alright, have fun with the whipper. Thank you.
+
+[24:21] I will. Uh okay, now back to Stas Stasis like oh yeah, we would we'll come back with cooking issues and Nastasia Lopez. Today's program has been brought to you by S. Wallace Edwards and Sons. Edward's Suriano hams are aged to perfection for no less than four hundred days, and hickory smoked to achieve a deep mahogany color.
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+[25:46] The Edwards name is well known for its world-class aged and cured meats. Optimum amounts of pure white fat marbling contribute to a flavor that's a delicate, perfect balance between sweet and salty. For more information, visit WWW dot Surre Farms. Oh man, you guys, you freaking guys. Although, uh, you missed uh I went on a thing about the whole Surriano thing and how I feel about it, but now I can talk about the fact that I'm a guessing, and I've never had this conversation, so I'm just guessing.
+
+[26:28] Nastash, do you hate the harmonica? No, I don't. Really? I would think you hate it because you hate things that tell stories, and it's like an inherently storytelling kind of an instrument. It like, you know, kind of it speaks from the soul.
+
+[26:39] You're like, yeah, no, I hate it. No, I don't need it though. Yeah. Yeah. So how are you doing, Stas?
+
+[26:43] Good. Yeah? Mm-hmm. And uh, Jack? Doing well.
+
+[26:46] Yeah. So, Jack, you had a question you were going to ask us, right? Yeah, we want we wanted to know your kind of thoughts on some of these new apps coming out that are catered towards um restaurant eaters. Like, for instance, there's one called No Wait, right? And you you you can you can get on a restaurant waiting line at home with the app.
+
+[27:02] I love well, I mean, I'd love I love that. Yeah? Except for the you know, my f my my the problem I I don't know how it works because I've never used it. As a as a user, I would like that. Imagine if you could just not so I live like two blocks from uh or three blocks from uh Mission Chinese, right?
+
+[27:18] Uh which is Danny Baum's restaurant. And uh, you know, they don't take the the reservations. Uh and the way it's like a billion years, but uh you know it would be no problem for me to just sit at home, you know, uh, you know, my the wife and I drinking ourselves silly and then waiting for you know them to say you've got ten minutes to to hightail it over here and I can hightail it over there. And yes, that would be a fantastic boon to someone like like me. I don't know how they operate it as a you know as an operator, you know.
+
+[27:44] I know at the bar that a lot of times when people are on a list, they don't necessarily come back, you know, and so it's um do they have some mechanism to ensure that you're gonna come back? We're interviewing them later today, so we'll find out. Yeah, I mean, so I mean it's the kind of thing that obviously is a boon to uh the to the consumer. Uh the question is, how hard is it gonna hose um how hard is it gonna hose the restaurants that use it? Or do they have some anti-hosing mechanism in the application?
+
+[28:11] I think all apps need an anti-hosing mechanism. Oh, yeah, definitely I mean so I mean just to let you know you know we we have a lot of situations at the bar where you know we we people come in we're like okay we're full because we you know we only have seats for like 32 or whatever uh and uh we say okay uh you know party of you know five or whatever it is you know we'll we'll text you when um it's free then we text them we put a reserve sign on the seat now we have five seats empty and it's not it's not just that there's five seats empty that we're not turning money around on although that does hurt me deeply the uh the real problem is is then people come in and they see the empty seats and they get pissed off that they can't get seated. You know what I mean? So it's uh it's tricky. It's a kind of a fine dance uh on how to do it.
+
+[28:59] Bigger places it's easier to deal with because they have more turnover but I wonder how it works in smaller places. Like when you only have like 30 seats, you know it's like it's it's it's hard to ride that line properly. You know what I mean? Yep totally. But um interested to hear what they say I'm interested to hear what the anti-hosing uh mechanism is.
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+[29:15] Uh yeah right what do you got going today Stas? Anything good? No? Absolutely not no absolutely not nope. Nothing you know it came in yesterday.
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+[29:25] What do you mean? We got the Sears all t-shirts in yesterday. Yes, that's great. They look although Stas couldn't uh didn't get a chance to see them she had to go run an errand before they showed up. The extra large is I'm glad because I'm nervous.
+
+[29:40] We have most of our T shirt buyers are extra large. You could you could sail a tugboat into the shirt that I picked up. Good. Do we have XXLs? Are they just XLs?
+
+[29:48] No, just XLs. Man. Dax, you know, Da, so Booker and Dax named after my kids, Booker and Dax. Dax, the small one who only wears a Luchar mask. Although he forgot it this morning on the w on walking the dog.
+
+[29:58] I think because I kicked him out of bed because my wife was gone, so like both kids had to come out with me to walk the dog this morning. And uh forgot his luchador mask for the first it's the first time I've seen him outside of the house without a luchador mask on in months. Like months. Weird, huh? Mm-hmm I wonder whether maybe he's giving up the Luchador phase.
+
+[30:18] I hope not because I haven't uh you know he hasn't had his mask yet his custom mask. How do we get into this? What were you talking about? Shirts. Oh shirts.
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+[30:26] Uh so he was like I want a Sears all shirt. I was like Dax I guarantee you we didn't order any kid sizes. Am I right? There's only smalls. I mean the price would have been a lot higher if we had kid sizes so just thinking about the company.
+
+[30:38] What? I see Stas always tries to make it seem like I'm being an ogre for no reason. First of all, people, people, people. I was never once consulted on this and I would have said, you know, yeah no we're not going to order kid sizes because it's fundamentally not something we want kids to play with. Small is not like Dax is like he's nine.
+
+[30:56] He's not like he's not like a teenager. Booker could wear a small no no Dax wants to wear it around Dax wants to wear it like a washer in the dryer. Are you now you're saying that the ones we bought are going to shrink? No like there's a way to shrink shirts on purpose right? Eh I don't know I don't do that kind of thing.
+
+[31:13] I don't I don't I don't try to buy normal shirts and then shrink them down to clubware because I don't go to clubs. Um okay no no offense no problem clubs so back to John Stewart's the other John Stewart's question. So uh for those of you that don't remember because it seemed like it was a long time ago uh the the issue is is will this new thing, this thrifty VAC uh work um to pull a real vacuum on something as opposed to just using a Ziploc? My feeling is is it's is that it's not going to suck any more uh hardcore of a vacuum than uh a vacuvan thing can suck, and that it's not it's probably useful if you want to, without having a big water bucket around to put things in a ziploc, but I don't think it's going to achieve much more than uh you can do just water dunking in a Ziploc. Um so there you have it.
+
+[31:59] But it's cheap, and so if you want to do a lot of dry bagging work of stuff in Ziploc bags, you know, maybe it would be useful. But most of the people uh I looked on Amazon, it's got a lot of very positive reviews. Uh, but uh if you actually burrow into the reviews on Amazon, almost everyone who was familiar with the uh the water dunk method of ziplocking was like, I don't really understand the advantages over a water dunk method on ziplocking. So I don't think it's gonna it's not gonna be there, it's not gonna be you know an alternative for kind of vacuum infusion, I don't think. And by the way, the uh you know, a couple of the the one of the people who did a review of it on YouTube that you sent us a link to said that um you know that it's kind of turns it into a chamber vacuum machine, and it does not turn it into a chamber vacuum machine because the minute you displace the air out of the bag, air from the outside pushes on top of the bag.
+
+[32:48] In fact, that's kind of the MO. It's using the bag to push on the bag, uh, and that that's how it's working. Chamber vacuum machine works entirely differently in that it just removes the air and there's no physical uh compression on the item uh until the air is allowed back in, right? And so that's kind of like that is the that that is how a chamber works. This works much more in the fashion that a food saver works, except for instead of using a food saver bag, they enclose this thing in an outside bag.
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+[33:16] Now, what I do think it would be really good at probably is if you wanted to make castings, like if you wanted to do or not castings out, uh I don't know what my my brain is shot today. If you want to do like fiberglass work and you wanted to do or pre-preg work with uh like fibers and stuff, you could uh you know you know, because the one of the problems of doing uh let's say you wanted to make something out of fiberglass uh and resin, right? And you want to put it over a mold, well the question is how do you get it to stick nicely to the mold? And you know, a good way to do it is using uh kind of a vac bag system where you put the entire you you put the the impregnated uh resin impregnated fiberglass, carbon fiber, Kevlar, whatever in the hell you're using, over your mold, you put it into a vacuum machine, suck it, uh suck it. I think this might be a good way to do that if you're but but that doesn't come up very often in the kitchen, does it?
+
+[34:02] I mean I used to remember remember that remember the Mokumagani thing I did back in the day with the I used vacuum bag molding for that. Um but um that was where you know we took different colors of fish, layered them up with uh transglutaminase, uh, and then par froze them on a mold uh in like a wavy shape and then sliced it on uh on the um Hobart model uh what is it, 3000 or 2000 uh meat slicer so that it looked like wood grained fish. That was a fun trick. Haven't done that in a while. You know why?
+
+[34:30] Because they gave me that freaking meat slicer and I let stupidly let left it at the FCI because it felt it had been there so long that they kind of like stupid. I should have taken that sucker with me. Yeah, right. Yeah, okay, like that would work. Uh anyway, uh so.
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+[34:45] Didn't we have something we're gonna talk about, Sas? We had something we're gonna talk about. I forget. Anyway, uh Joshua writes in from Switzerland regarding ice cream. Hi, Dave and Nastasha, greetings from Switzerland.
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+[34:55] I'm a big fan of your show, and Stas is a big fan of Switzerland, as it turns out, right? She loves it a Swiss. She loves it a Swiss. Um, but he doesn't say which Switzerland he's from. Like Switzerland.
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+[35:07] I only like the Italian parts, so. Really? Mm-hmm. Like, but how f how like cleanly divided are the different parts of Switzerland? Um they all hang out in like the big cities, they all hang out, right?
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+[35:18] So you get everyone in the big cities, right? The Italians don't really they don't move from area, yeah. No. Oh, the German and French do move everywhere. They move everywhere.
+
+[35:25] So like Geneva, there's no Italian people in Geneva? Not a lot. Not that I saw. None. Not one.
+
+[35:33] Yeah. Not one Italian speaker. They're like they're Italians. They don't leave their mother's house. Wow.
+
+[35:41] Wow. All right. Uh we'll talk about that later on. Uh Greens for Switzerland. I'm a big fan of your show.
+
+[35:46] Lately I've been obsessed with ice cream. I own an ice cream maker which is able to cool to negative 35 Celsius. I don't know what that is in Fahrenheit. I I didn't do the calculation, but uh just for you for your edification, the one I always remember, minus 20 uh Celsius is minus four Fahrenheit. So you're well into the minus range.
+
+[36:05] Uh well, well into the minus range, probably around minus 20 uh Fahrenheit, something pretty hardcore. Uh anyway. A couple of days ago I made a whiskey ice cream on a recipe by Heston Blumenthal, which by the way, I looked up uh the Blumenthal recipe. So that what what's about to happen isn't a uh like whatever is about to happen, the the results um that Joshua had that he's not gonna be happy with, he's gonna describe it in a minute, aren't due to uh high alcohol content in the whiskey ice cream because what I saw on the internets uh of Heston Blumenthal, he uh burns the whiskey first to get rid of a a lot of the alcohol. So we're not dealing with the softness uh based on a high alcohol content.
+
+[36:40] Let's just get that out. I don't want anyone thinking that while I'm reading this question because that's not what's going on, right? Were you thinking that, Stas? No. Alright.
+
+[36:47] Uh I let the ice cream maker uh okay, so um on a recipe with Heston Blumenthal and sage ice cream with egg, sugar, and milk custard. I let the ice cream maker pre-cool to approximately negative 25 Celsius and then poured the ice cream base and let it churn. And here's the thing. Here's what should stick in your head. I let it churn for approximately 30 minutes.
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+[37:06] After that, I store the ice cream overnight in a freezer. A taste test the next morning left me unsatisfied. The ice cream was tasty, but it seemed that two large ice crystals had formed because it had an unpleasant mouthfeel and didn't feel smooth. Therefore, my questions How does the churning time influence the development of ice crystals? Or is there a minimum time which you would suggest?
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+[37:27] Do you see any flaws in my ice cream making? And can you recommend any good literature on ice cream making and theoretical base? I've read the chapter on ice cream in the book, The Kitchen as a Laboratory, but need more. Thank you in advance for your help, Joshua's. By the way, the word laboratory brings up I have so Travis Huggett, who uh did the photography on my cocktail book, uh, and and I we were in the subway the other day, and uh when I say other day, I mean yesterday, and we had like seriously the idea that could make us like like the new like Angetty slash uh uh what's his name, Wegman, the Weimaraner thing.
+
+[37:59] But since we're never gonna do it, I'm gonna give this idea out there to somebody. Uh now you're gonna think this is really stupid, but the more you think about it, right? The more you think about it, the better it gets. Ready? The the this could be the hottest wall and desk calendar of 2015.
+
+[38:18] Labs in labs. We're talking labrador retrievers in laboratory situations with lab coats on. Labs in labs. Now you're like, that's dumb, right? But look at this.
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+[38:33] I think it's dumb, even though I came up with the idea, and yet, if I saw that thing on Amazon for 15 bucks, I would own it right now. I would buy it. I would pre-order that sucker right the hell now. Labs in labs. Come on.
+
+[38:46] Somebody do it. Here's what I want. Travis and I, we need some cut. That's all. Like all I want, or like maybe even a mention, a cut.
+
+[38:52] You know, when when they come with the barrels of money and drop them off at your house for having done this labs in lab calendar, we like when you're swimming through money, just remember that as you're bailing the boat out so that you don't drown in your own money. Just put one of those buckets of money, you know, our way. That's all I'm saying, right? That's all that's all I that's all I need. Labs and labs.
+
+[39:11] Uh so uh here's the deal. Uh ice cream, the longer, okay. Ice crystals, uh the faster you freeze something, the smaller the ice crystals are, right? And the reason is is because you uh with rapid freezing, you get many s nucleation sites, right? So ice crystals don't ice crystals l prefer to form on other ice crystals.
+
+[39:34] In other words, ice crystals prefer to grow rather than than to form entirely new ice crystals, right? It's more energetically favored. So the slower something freezes, the larger the ice crystals are. The more rapidly something freezes, the more different nucleation sites you get, and the smaller the ice crystals are because they don't have time to grow into larger uh ice crystals. So there's a direct relationship between the size of the ice crystals that are formed in in a freezing process and the rate of freezing.
+
+[40:04] Now, um there are other factors as well. Uh, you know, uh the composition of it, but but for a given ice cream composition, the crystal size is directly related to uh the freeze time. Now here's another thing. Uh typically, when you're freezing the ice cream, remember you're never freezing ice cream until it's a total solid. A good amount of the product uh uh of the ice cream is still in a a liquid state, right?
+
+[40:29] And um and how much of it is liquid is dependent on what the freezing point of the ice cream is, and that's dependent on things like the sugar content, uh, and you know, and the fat content, things like this. Well, not really the fat content, but the sugar content, right? So you know you're you're looking at there's a lot of liquid water in there. So when you draw out of a machine, you've been churning for 30 minutes, you draw out of the machine, there's still a lot of liquid in it. You already have kind of large seed uh crystals in there because of the long freezing time, 30 minutes.
+
+[40:57] You then put it in the freezer to harden overnight, and what happens? Those crystals get bigger and bigger overnight as it gets colder and colder. So let's say you have a draw temperature. So forget what the freezing temperature of the of the uh forget what the the minimum possible condenser temperature is in your ice cream uh maker, right? Forget it, because that's not what's important.
+
+[41:15] What's important is what the temperature, how fast it can put the energy into uh the ice cream, right? So a commercial ice cream machine, even if it's only uh, you know, if it's running at a higher temperature than yours, has enough has enough ability to chill, enough chilling power that it can freeze the ice cream to its draw temperature of somewhere around, I don't know, 20 Fahrenheit, let's say, or 18, what is it between 15 and 20? I forget exactly Fahrenheit, the draw temperature, it can do that in uh 10 minutes or less, right? So the uh LB100, which a lot of people use at Taylor's, depending on the batch size that you put in, you can get down to like a seven minute batch time, right? Anything below like a seven to ten minute freeze time, the the fact that your crystals are smaller, don't doesn't make a damn bit of difference because you can't taste ice crystals that uh like your tongue can't distinguish the texture of ice crystals that are any smaller than that.
+
+[42:08] So while some people say the texture of liquid nitrogen ice cream is superior to the texture of ice cream that's frozen in a regular machine, because it theoretically has smaller uh you know crystals, that's horse hockey because your tongue can't distinguish anything. But you can very easily tell the difference between an ice cream that took 30 minutes to freeze and an ice cream that only took seven uh or eight minutes to freeze. Now, the flip side is is if you were to take um so so what to do. Um, one thing is is look at the power requirements on the on the back of uh your your machine, and you can kind of get an idea of how much, and you can't really, because things get much less efficient as they get colder in terms of how much uh they can effectively apply to the ice cream when you're when you're making it. But almost all machines are underpowered to actually freeze the stuff in in a relatively quick fashion.
+
+[42:57] One thing you can do, obviously start with extremely cold mix. Second thing you can do is use less mix. Now, the problem with using less mix is that a lot of machines, if you underfill the machine, it has too much overrun, i.e., too much air gets whipped into it. So this is something you're gonna have to uh address or uh or worry about. The third thing is is if you are gonna have a freeze time of let's say 20 to 30 minutes, then I would recommend only doing it right before you're about to serve it and not try to harden it.
+
+[43:29] Since since um machines that have like a 20 to 30 minute freeze time, the texture of the ice cream is usually pretty good right out of the machine, but once hardened, then it all starts going to hell in a handbasket uh pretty quickly. Um I don't know, does that seem to answer that that part of that question? Uh as regards references, the best online reference, and it and it really gets you a long way before you buy any books, is um go to uh Google this dairy education series at the University, and I can never know how it's actually pronounced this town. Uh Guelph, you think it's Gel for Guelph. Gelf Guelph, yeah, Canadian, who knows.
+
+[44:06] But the the professor who wrote that is H. Douglas Goff. And it's a fantastic uh resource, and I use it as my quick and ready resource and have for uh years. Uh and it's a fantastic website with a lot of information. Now, as for books, um the classic, the classic uh in uh ice cream book is called uh, you know, makes sense, uh ice cream.
+
+[44:30] That's what it's called. Uh and it came out in the 60s. It was released by uh company called AVI Press. AVI Press in the 60s and 70s put out kind of the best food technology book series. It was so awesome.
+
+[44:43] I used to go to the New York Public Library and read them constantly, and zero I would literally Xerox them. Uh, you know, this is like you know, 20 years ago. I'll go Xerox them so I could have them because I couldn't uh afford them. Now they've been superseded somewhat, and AVI is no longer out of business. But uh they uh that that book was called Ice Cream by R Buckle, and Rbuckle was it.
+
+[45:02] Like the in like in everyone was like Arbuckle ice cream. In fact, they didn't even call it ice cream anymore, they just called it our buckle, and everyone knew that they were talking about the ice cream book. No relation to Fatty Arbuckle, the uh silent film star who may or may not have been wrongly accused of doing that, whatever. I don't want to get into it. But the um Arbuckle Ice Cream.
+
+[45:21] So uh you familiar with uh Fatty Arbuckle and Silent Film Star stuff? Yeah, I think he did it. Really? Do you think he did it? Um I need to reread it.
+
+[45:29] I don't remember what I said what I thought. My last impression was I think he was falsely accused. This isn't so off topic. Uh so uh so here's uh what happened. When it got bought, uh they did uh uh a redo of it, right, with a new author, uh Robert T.
+
+[45:44] Marshall and W. S. R. Buckle, right? That's the fifth edition from 2000, right?
+
+[45:50] Now already they've they've changed the authorship on it. And then in 2003, they took uh they took our buckle off the book entirely, and then it was Robert Marshall Douglas Goff, right? You know, good guy, and uh Richard uh Hartell, who's not at Guelph like Goff is, he's at Mad Town. He's the ice cream scientist at at uh University of Wisconsin Mad in Madison. Uh anyways, so then our buckle came off.
+
+[46:15] I got really pissed. I don't really like it when something's like a standard like that, and then they rewrite it, and then they just like they take the original author off. They should have called it our buckle's ice cream with the new authors on it, right? Uh and uh and then now they released it uh in 2013. They just released it as ice cream by H.
+
+[46:31] Douglas Goff and uh Richard Hartell. So whatever. I don't appreciate the loss of the lineage of like such a a well-known book, but there you have it. That's the ice cream book to get. The other one is called uh by C.
+
+[46:41] Clark, it's called The Science of Ice Cream. Uh, and it's uh 2004 from the Royal Society of Chemistry. Uh little bits of of it is available on Google Books and on Amazon, and so I looked through it, and it also looks uh pretty good. Cover, there's two covers I saw. Cover looked like crap, it was like scooped out colored lard.
+
+[46:58] Like, why do people do that when they're shooting ice cream? Just shoot real ice cream and shoot it fast. You know, do you like lard looking ice cream for fake you hate that, right? Mm-hmm. Like I know it, like you know, you're selling you science of ice cream, and then you have l the other one was just a series of tubes.
+
+[47:11] It's a series of tubes. I didn't really I didn't get that, but I like the tube cover better. Anyway, but that's another alternative. Alright. So uh that's good on that, on on that.
+
+[47:19] Yeah. Yeah, four minutes. Four minutes? Oh my god. Yeah.
+
+[47:23] Well, this listen. So Sam wrote in about uh homemade pasta sheets for uh lasagna, and I have my thoughts on it, but I'm gonna try to wait. Uh we we we were gonna try to get uh Mark Ladner on because you know he makes he they make the pasta for that billion layer lasagna, right? It's not a billion layers. How many layers is it?
+
+[47:40] Hundred. Hundred. So I wanted to get uh kind of his feelings um on it, uh especially on like whole egg versus egg yolk and various things in pasta, and also his feelings on gluten-free pasta and bite and stuff like that, because he knows a lot, so maybe we can get them next week. So uh so Sam, I'm gonna put off your question on that uh till next week. Uh and let's go up to oh and I you know, by the way, I'm sorry, uh Twitter folks, uh it doesn't look like I'm gonna get a chance to any Twitter questions, but I'm gonna tabulate them all.
+
+[48:08] I'll try to answer some of them on Twitter, and then ones I can't answer on Twitter I'll postpone until next week. Jeff Mays writes in uh just curious if you or Dave were ever able to figure out how best to cook candle nuts so that they're safe to eat. I have a pressure cooker and a circulator, and not sure if there's a foolproof way to parcook so I can keep them in the house without having to worry about them being poisonous. I called uh in a while ago about the question, but I haven't heard the answer yet. Okay, I've only been able to find the stupid stuff on not stupid, whatever, but the stuff on Wikipedia that say that it contains saponin and four ball, and everyone just quotes that as a block text out of that.
+
+[48:39] Uh, but I haven't found the references on uh relative heat stability, just that they're just that it's inactivated by by cooking, not necessarily in a pressure cooker. Typically, these guys are roasting it. So uh you brought it back to my attention. I haven't answered it, and I'm gonna come back and do some more research on it. But you have a second question, which I can hit a little harder.
+
+[48:57] Uh, for low temperature fried chicken, if you pre-cook at 64 degrees white meat uh for 45 minutes, the chicken chill, then refrigerate. What is the best fry temperature to ensure that I don't overcook the chicken but still get a delicious crispy crust? I Brian using the ad hoc, you know, Tech Keller's book recipe, then low temp cook, chill, then refrigerate, then remove and fry. I'm using flour, buttermilk, uh, uh I'm using a flour, buttermilk, flour procedure for frying, which is what I use, but I put egg in the buttermilk. Anyway, when I last did this at 365 uh 360 degrees in grapeseed oil, that's Fahrenheit, uh, the white meat was not as juicy as when I didn't pre-cook low temp and did all the frying at 325.
+
+[49:33] Or is there a different temp I should use for low temperature? I really want to do the chicken quickly so that I can have it fresh out of the fryer for guests shortly after they arrive and don't have to spend a dinner party in front of a fry station. Thanks again for the show every week. Jeff Mays. Okay, here's a couple of questions for you, or a couple of issues.
+
+[49:47] So typically uh what what may be going on is that you're cooking it brined uh and then allowing it to uh to refrigerate and sit. And I'm wondering if it's firming up a little bit, the way that most salted meats really firm up when they're being cooked, and whether or not when you say it's not as juicy, is it there's a couple of things it could be. Is it that it's not as juicy, but it's still clearly not overcooked? Does it taste firmer, i.e. more cured?
+
+[50:16] In which case, if you're going to pre-cook it a long time before, maybe omit the brining or do a uh a lighter brine so it doesn't taste as as firm or cured. That's I'm not sure. I'd have to test it. I don't have this problem, I'll tell you why. I don't refrigerate my uh my chicken.
+
+[50:35] When I'm doing low temp chicken, I do it uh fairly soon before the meat is going to be served. I remove it from the ziplocks uh where it's brine. I cook it in the brine, frankly, and then I pull it out and I pull it out hot. And the reason I pull it out hot is so that the skin flashes off and gets tacky so that I get good adhesion of my battery right. Now I know there's a whole pies and thighs, Roberta's uh theory of you know not drying the chicken at all before you batter it, but whatever, I don't do that.
+
+[51:04] And so and then I fry it uh in the limit of food safety time. So it ne I never chill it down and I never re and I fry it at 360, right? So you know that's kind of how I do it. And what my feeling is is that you're probably uh you're probably getting a uh a lack of the feeling you getting out of a fresh cooked chicken because it was cooked, brined and cooked uh and allowed to sit in the salt uh you know in its own salt for so long and it's pulling on that kind of texture. But I'm not sure.
+
+[51:38] I have to maybe I could put a call into a couple of people and uh see what I'm working on, or maybe do a side-by-side test. But I would try to do it fresh, uh, i.e. you could still do it so your dinner guests don't get hosed, right? You could do it a couple hours before they show up. But try doing it kind of alimute because 360 is what you should uh do.
+
+[51:54] I wouldn't do it from cold though, by the way. Uh that might be another problem you're having. You might be trying to warm up the center of the chicken by doing a 360-degree cook. If you try to do that, you're gonna overcook the hell out of the outside of the chicken and and you'll also burn the burn the crust. The optimum thing is to have the chicken be, you know, somewhere, you know, like above room temperature, at or above room temperature, so that when you fry it, you're literally just focused on the crust and everything else is secondary.
+
+[52:22] Here's here's something you might want to do to uh to to try that as a problem is uh pull your stuff if you're gonna leave it in the bag and refrigerate it, try this. Pull it out of the fridge if it if it's not the salt problem, pull it out of the fridge and circ it for like you know, 25 minutes at like uh 50 Celsius, and then uh pull it out hot, uh let it flash off for a little bit, or even 55 Celsius, let and let it heat up, flash it off for a couple of minutes, then bread it, then fry it, and see whether that solves your problem. Maybe you're just going from too cold and spending too long in the fryer. Anyway, those are my thoughts. We got Peter Kim who shows up late or as last week, never.
+
+[53:02] Whoa. From the actually, what's interesting is he actually was here in Robertas, but he was at the bar. But that makes sense. That makes sense. Peter Kim, what do you got for us?
+
+[53:11] Yo, he is president, uh, what are you, president, director, emperor, Emperor of the Museum of Galactic Emperor of the Museum of Food and Drink? Exactly. Nice. All right, what do you got for us? Well, I just wanted to give a shout out to the Golden Cadillac, uh, to Don Lee, the Asian man with the best hair in New York City.
+
+[53:29] Well, and you know, there's a t-shirt of all the various incarnations of uh Don Lee's hair, and I think his hair deserves the actual legal technical term of incarnation. I believe it has agency. Absolutely, absolutely has a soul. Yeah. And uh I've got the calendar of his hair.
+
+[53:43] And uh also to uh cocktail superstar John Darragon. The two of them uh put together a great event for Mofad uh a couple weeks ago at Golden Cadillac, and uh yeah, good turnout. Dave, you were there in a mask and a cape. The blue diamond, yeah. Yeah, syringes of jello shots into people's mouths.
+
+[54:01] Don Lee's jello shots, by the way. They were Don Lee's yellow shots. I take no credit, yeah. I take no blame. I was merely the bar back, the server, the waitron.
+
+[54:10] Yeah, Patrick was there too, Patrick Martins. And uh what was his quote? Give me give give you Patrick Martin's quote as he self-injected himself with with uh Pina Calada. What was the quote? Give it to me.
+
+[54:19] I blocked it from my own. Oh, come on, don't wait. Dave, I don't I I don't remember anything. What is it? No, he's like calling him out.
+
+[54:26] It's not calling him out, it was awesome. It's not calling him out. Hey, how about those flat pizzas that they've got at Subway? Uh don't get me started. Don't get me started.
+
+[54:34] Don't get me started. We don't have time to get me started. I have a question about MSG though. Oh, geez. Yeah, Peter, Peter.
+
+[54:40] So why don't you instead why don't you spend the the in you know the few minutes we have left? And that reminded me for now I have called the personality going through my head. But uh for those of you that remember Living Color uh Cultural Personality song? Do you remember that? Yeah.
+
+[54:52] Good song. Anyway, so what do we got going to the museum soon? Well, actually, so on the Golden Catholic thing, we're gonna make that a monthly thing, and uh so keep an eye out for that. And then we've got a debate coming up on GMOs on I think Sunday, April 27 at the Food Book Fair. And we've got a big MoFed fundraiser coming up in May, and the Stasi and I are putting it together.
+
+[55:10] It's gonna be amazing. We've got some great chefs lined up for that. Uh May 7 is our tentative date, but we'll be sending out a state of date as soon as we get the details. Are we doing any particular what particular aspect of GMOs are we gonna tackle? Man, I mean, I think one of the first questions is is just gonna be about defining GMOs and what those are and how they differ from conventionally grown crops, if at all.
+
+[55:31] Why is that really contentious? The actual definition? Yeah, it is. The definition is contentious? Yeah.
+
+[55:36] All right. Well, I will uh am I gonna moderate this one? Uh yeah. I we'll have you moderate it. Why is the definition oh, I mean how you define it legally in terms of hey hey Stas.
+
+[55:46] Stas is worried because she's got something else to do. One second. No, it's true, it's fine. I won't discuss what it is. But they the point is is that the the the the I guess the definition of what you actually count as a GMO modified food is quite important as it relates to whether or not you could sell it in Whole Foods in five years when they come in.
+
+[56:03] Right? That is that what you mean? No one really no one really no one really argues about what what the process of using genetic modification is. It's just whether or not a particular food stuff is labeled as GMO free or not, right? That's what's contentious.
+
+[56:16] That's true, yeah. And also for regulation purposes, too. Right, sure. Sure. Alright.
+
+[56:20] So uh yes, a giant thanks uh to the Golden Cadillac, uh John Deragon, Don Lee, Greg Bohm, all those uh guys. They did a uh a real solid service with that. Uh and uh maybe we should have uh, you know, occasionally we should have you come in and just give us a MoFAD update. Yeah, sure. Yeah?
+
+[56:36] You like that? Yeah. All right. And I'll stand you up. Yeah, nice.
+
+[56:39] All right. Uh well that was it. Cooking issues, labs in labs. Cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org.
+
+[56:54] You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritageradio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a non profit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today.
+
+[57:19] Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by White Oak Pastures, a five generation Georgia-based beef and poultry farm determined to conduct business in an honorable manner. For more information, visit WhiteOakPastures.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Cooking issues!
+
+[1:00] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you live from Robertus Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn on the Heritage Radio Network, joined as usual with Nastasha The Hammer Lopez. How are you doing, Stas? Good. And we got Evan in the control group today, right?
+
+[1:16] How are you doing, Evan? Good, how are you? You ever uh you don't talk much on the air? I guess. No, I'm uh been a quiet guy.
+
+[1:21] Yeah, quite guy. So are we saying, Stas when I rudely interrupted you as is my want? Nothing. Yeah? Yeah.
+
+[1:27] Anything good going on? No, I was I was just looking up the A classic recipe that that uh I asked you to look up the uh oh and you're looking through. We got the uh for those of you that have uh never written a book before, which was me until like a month ago, uh the publisher comes out with this thing called a blad. A book layout and design thing. So we're just looking at just came in the Blads for the new cocktail book coming out in November.
+
+[1:51] November! November. You know who else's books are coming out in November? I don't know. For those of you that don't know the like it takes forever to get uh a book uh out because they like even though it's already done, they they go through a bunch of revisions and copy editing and then they send it overseas to get printed, and then it has to get shipped back, and they need to have it in the country for a little while before they ship it out, ba boop ba beep ba ba.
+
+[2:12] So when you're going through kind of traditional publishing route, it sure does take a long time. Doesn't it seem like it takes longer than you than you'd think it would stuff? Yeah, definitely. Especially because it's like it's done now. You're we're done with it, we're done.
+
+[2:22] And then now you like we just want it to come out. But uh we have some good friends with books coming out in November. I can't even remember all of them, like a bunch of good ones. Like uh Brooks, his book is coming out in uh October, November, the same publisher. Got the hip pressure cooking book coming out, bunch of good stuff coming up.
+
+[2:37] Anyways, uh anything good happened uh past couple days? Anything anything horrible? No. No? That's good.
+
+[2:43] Nothing good, nothing horrible. Uh I got this one off of uh the Twitter, sent in uh it's not a question, it's more just a hey, check this out. Uh, from uh at Jim Guarnieri writes to us, uh, and I haven't told you about this yet, Stas, because I want to get your direct uh reaction. So uh it's it's from uh I don't know whether it's Live Science or Live Science is the name of the website, and the reporter is Charles Choi, and writes about this baby poop bacteria help make healthy sausages. And the tag the tag the title line of the article Pooperoni.
+
+[3:16] It's a pooperoni. Because what they're doing is some scientists in England were trying to get uh the most kind of uh probiotic. So, you know, when you ferment sausages, right? One of the things you're looking for, well, the primary thing you're looking for is uh a drop in pH so that you can uh inhibit unhealthy things from growing in it by having uh the pH low enough that they won't grow. Uh so typically you get lactic acid bacteria, uh, and they also produce that awesome kind of lactic acid flavor.
+
+[3:42] And then the question as a as a sausage maker is where do you fall? Do you like a more acidic sausage? A lot of Americans tend to do kind of hardcore uh like really hard pH dropped uh fermented stuff I think 'cause they like the tang and also because you know it's definitely helps enhance food safety whereas you know I knew a lot of people who also like a really kind of mild, less tangy sausage, but they have to play more with, you know, making sure that they're on the safe side. What do you like better? Tangy or not tangy on a fermented sausage?
+
+[4:08] Um I don't think I care. I like most all sausages. You like them both? I don't like it when it gets so so tangy that the meat kind of gets granular and breaks up weird. Yeah.
+
+[4:15] You know what I'm talking about? Although sometimes I like it. There's some like citrus, some citrus dried sausages with like that have like like noticeable acid flavor to them other than just lactic. And those I kind of like even though they're crumbly. Whatever, anyway, that's not what I'm talking about here.
+
+[4:28] So the point is that these researchers in uh in the UK, I think it was UK, say, well, listen, we've growing bacteria they don't talk like that there. They're like, listen, we've growing bacteria inside these sausages anyway, so what if we doped it with some probiotic stuff so that we could say that it helps your intestines, you know, helps you pooper out while you're doing it, right? And so they figured who's got a lot of those uh you know probiotic stuff without a lot of pathogens? Babies, and so they uh they I guess like took a bunch of baby diapers and cultured stuff out and found some bacteria from the baby diapers that they thought were good and they started inoculating it into it making the uh pooperoni. What are your thoughts just reading this I mean that what do you well you know now that you like with a first blush would you have you wouldn't have a problem with pooperoni would you have been cultured so many times.
+
+[5:11] Yeah I'd be fine with it. Yeah I mean San Francisco sourdough like you know one of them one of s one of the main um uh back when they did testing which was decades ago uh they tested for strains of uh bacteria in the uh in the sourdough starters and one of them was you know the its main substrate is uh the gums of people with periodontal disease. Yeah so yeah I have a problem with that. That's even grosser, right? You'd like to rather poperoni.
+
+[5:35] You'd rather poperoni than the periodontal disease. Like you know sometimes. Yeah why? I don't know like why is it like that? Oh uh well I mean look it's so far removed anyway and like you know the like the most shocking the most kind of disturbing passage in modernist cuisine for those of you that have it is the one where they uh describe the s the experiment done in the submarine where uh they take all the sailors in the submarine and they they give them a uh a check in the you know a butt a butt check I said we can say that on air they check their butts and they uh they put a uh a phosphorescent powder in on their behinds right and didn't tell them about it and then a day later they took a a black light and walked around the sub uh submarine whole freaking submarine lit up like like a freaking club with the black light like showing the phosphorescent dust all the time used to eating that I'm saying you are so thoroughly coated with like all kind of like nastiness people touching their face, people touching their mouth, people touching their butt, people touching the ground and then wiping it all over every surface and then you touch that surface.
+
+[6:42] I mean my thing is like look I got mental issues like uh not just cooking issues people I have some mental issues on like for instance public restrooms like I can't use it but I know that it's irrational. I know that my fear and disgust of public restrooms and of touching uh faucets and knobs uh in in public restrooms and areas like that. I know that it's illogical because I know that that stuff is everywhere, but I just can't kick it, you know? I don't know. Mm-hmm.
+
+[7:07] What about you? You don't like a public restroom either. Nobody likes a public restroom. If you like a like, I don't know, someone can call it. Maybe they're like oh, by the way, if you do have a question related to cooking, call it in two 718-497-2128.
+
+[7:19] That's 7184972128. Oh, well, so the tagline is the baby poop helps actually make the sausage more healthy, more healthy. It also reminds me of the interesting case. Do you remember that article that McGee sent us about the uh salt risen bread and the clostridium porfringans and the guys in the right after World War I, they had saved some culture from a soldier who had died from gas gangrene, this like Clostridium that like, you know, like ate this guy's leg and like blew it up with gas and stuff like that, and they made bread with it. Whoa.
+
+[7:45] And they ate it. And they didn't die, apparently. Well, I mean, they're dead now. Now they're dead. Uh at Cless wrote in uh last week, not in time for the last thing.
+
+[7:54] He says, uh, at cooking issues, if you could read a list of microplane uses that you could think of in the style of John Mashita that would be great. You remember him? I can't I can't do it. I can't I mean look, if if I had a script and I memorized it, maybe I could talk as fast as he can, but he's the guy in the FedEx commercial who's like, you know, got it good, got a good deal deal. Remember this?
+
+[8:12] Yeah. No, you're too young. Oh, anyway, like for any of you that were alive in the 80s and remember these FedEx commercials. He was like a super fast talking guy on a telephone who would just nonstop like stream of craziness. They're awesome commercials.
+
+[8:23] I just watched them this morning on the YouTube to get a refresher on it, and they're still good. I like a commercial, it's still good. No? You don't care. Yeah, no, yeah, I'm at some.
+
+[8:31] Alright, so here are some uh here are some uh uses uh at Clef's, and they and these aren't my own uses, these are just you know obvious uses for uh microplane. So by the way, when you buy a microplane, before I get into it, you know, it there's various different sizes of uh they're not just physical sizes of the microplane unit itself, but actual uh differences in the way that the cutting teeth are arranged. They have ribbon slicers, they have coarse slicer, uh, you know, coarse graters, they have fine graters, they have ultra fine for spices and stuff like that. I tend to use mainly just uh the the normal fine one, which I use for for zests in that. But I mean obviously there's a lot more uses if you're getting some of the coarser ones, if you want to grate things like apples and carrots and stuff.
+
+[9:09] But I don't I don't do that much. You use a lot of microplane? No. Really? Mm-hmm.
+
+[9:13] Like you're against it, or doesn't come out. No, I actually use it for parmesan cheese. But that's about it. That's it. Okay.
+
+[9:19] So uh file like most of these things under uh under I didn't come up with any like killer ones that I hadn't already known about. I'm sorry about that at cla at Clefs. But anyway, uh or should I just if someone's at Clef, should I just call them Clefs? Yeah. Yeah, Clef's.
+
+[9:33] Yeah, all right. Uh so obviously spices, right? So you got your uh your nutmeg, your cinnamon, your balinese long pepper, your grains of salim, or as they say in in uh Wolof jark. Like what other hard spices you got? Probably a lot of hard spec.
+
+[9:45] Any hard spice that's big enough to hold in your hand, you could do, right? I mean pretty much. Uh I wonder whether cola nuts would be good. I don't really like cola nuts, but I bet you you could grate them. Anyways, uh obviously any hard product, uh fatty hard product like chocolate or hard cheese, duh, zest, uh any c uh any kind of zest.
+
+[10:01] I mean duh uh horseradish, if you want a real fluffy horseradish. Although I wouldn't do it with with sabi because I don't think it can grate it fine enough. However, if you have another mortar and pestle thing, but you don't have like the like the good old shark skin thing to grade into a fine paste for wasabi, a good approximation is to take the wasabi, grate it first in a microplane and then grind it in a regular mortar and pestle because it breaks down the fibers to the extent that you can get a good paste grind afterwards. Most people don't think about this, but very, very, very few um uh grinding technologies or blending technologies are good at reducing something from a very large particle size to a very small particle size, the whole range of particle sizes. So sometimes a dual uh a dual action thing like that is necessary.
+
+[10:44] Now the shark skins guys are good because they fundamentally abrade it like sandpaper, but make it easy enough to get the stuff out after it's done. So it's ideal for that. But if you don't have that, you could probably do a pretty good job by microplaning first and then mortar and pestling it with a standard uh Western style mortar and pestle. I wouldn't you I mean like at home, I don't really use standard mortar and pencils. I have a moca hete I use for things like guacamole and garlic and stuff like that, but it'd be too coarse.
+
+[11:07] I'd lose so much wasabi and the price would make me so angry. But anyway, uh horseradish, uh other hard stuff like coconuts, but not if you need too much. Can you imagine having to grate all that all that stuff on the chink shing shit? They have the rotary one, but I don't I don't have it, I don't use it. Anyway, uh also nut nuts, like larger nuts that you give you want like a little bit of grated uh walnut, grated almonds, things like this.
+
+[11:25] Obviously, things like ginger, fantastic, peel it first, uh, and anything related to ginger, any rhizome related to ginger. So you got your turmeric, you got your galangal, which uh, you know, people don't use enough fresh galangle. They really don't. Turmeric, we just did a bunch of demos with it. I can understand why you wouldn't want to use fresh turmeric because it stains the hell out of everything.
+
+[11:42] Although I used some and it didn't have as much uh you know what I didn't realize this people? Turmeric, uh, the amount of flavor seems kind of directly related to the color intensity. So we had a batch that had a very low color intensity and it had much less flavor per gram than uh than the ones with the higher color intensity. I hadn't realized that. Maybe someone else has some experience with this and they can tell me.
+
+[12:02] Uh a lot of people do garlic. I don't. You ever garlic, you ever garlic micro microplane? Um I've never done it. I mean, I'm sure it would work.
+
+[12:10] But yeah, I you know what I secretly I hate chopping garlic. I do too. I hate it. I hate it. I just hate it.
+
+[12:15] I like handing it off to somebody. I hate it. You know what uh you know what I hate? I hate that I hate that that weird sugary sticky paper sticks to you and the paper sticks to the knife after you smash it. I just don't like it.
+
+[12:25] I hate it. I don't like smashing it. I don't like I still I still don't like dealing with it. I really don't. I mean I love the flavor of it, but you know, and maybe I'll try this other thing.
+
+[12:34] Okay. I've never tried Katsu Bushi, but I'm sure it would work. You know, obviously not for what you normally use it for in Dashi, but if you wanted to like grate a little bit of Katsu Bushi over the top of something, I'm sure that'd be great. That's dried bonito for you other folks out there. Uh I have tried it with uh dried uh Chinese scallops and it's fantastic for that as a finishing thing.
+
+[12:50] I've tried it with botarga, which is great because batarga is so freaking expensive that you want something really accurate, like a microplane that you can make a like a fine grating of the botar over the uh over the you like potaga? I do. Both like the mullet and the tuna, you like them both. I don't know the difference. Right, it's mullet and tuna the two, right?
+
+[13:07] That they do. I know it's mullet and I think the other one is tuna. I think it is. Uh it's I don't buy it anymore, but the price look, when I was uh like like fifteen, sixteen years ago, I could go to the international grocery on on 40th Street and buy it for uh like I don't know, I could buy like a whole row sack. It's not can't be tuna because it's so small.
+
+[13:26] But I buy like a whole row sack for like uh I want to say like twenty bucks or something like that. You know what I mean? And it's like so expensive now. It's just so damned expensive. It's like a hundred, it's like over a hundred dollars a pound that stuff.
+
+[13:38] Wow. It's crazy. I like it though. Uh so then you got uh some cool thing cool things like at Co, they open when they open, they had that frozen foie gras where they froze the lobe and then they microplane the uh frozen foie gras over the top of stuff. That's a good use.
+
+[13:51] You got your uh Faron uh Adria did his uh cauliflower couscous with a microplane where he grates just the tips of the florets off and they look like uh couscous. Uh people seem to enjoy that. I've never done it. Wiley used to microplane, uh he used to take gel-an and set it like re gelin, you know, the hydrocolloid. He would gel it at really high percentages, like three percent, which by the way, if you're not a hydrocolloid head, freaking unheard of.
+
+[14:13] Like dance, dance, dance, dance. But he used to then grate it like batarga. He would like make different flavors of this. Like soup. I don't know if he still does it, but it's a technique he used for quite a while.
+
+[14:23] Also, frozen meats or fish. If you want like a little bit of that flavor over, you want to incorporate it in, that you can just grate with the microplane. And America's Test Kitchen recommends uh using it to get the burn off of cookies if you burn a little bit of the cookies to grate it off. And uh, you know, you could try that on, I guess you could try it on like bread and toast. Don't you hate it when you get a little bit of the I just use the sharp, I just like flat scrape blade my uh knife across the top of toast when it gets burnt.
+
+[14:46] You ever do that? You try to save it and then you give yourself that piece, you give everyone else the good piece, and you get yours looks all stupid and scraped with the little chatter marks because you chattered when you scrape the thing across it and you feel like a D-bag for wasting the bread, but you didn't buy enough extra, so you can't just like throw it away or feed it to the dog or something. Happens all the time, right? I hate that. God, I hate that.
+
+[15:04] Uh and as usual, the microplane can be used for its intended purpose, woodworking. And just a great uh uh gross does out, microplanes, they sell them for personal use, and by that it means shaving the uh the dead skin off the bottom of your feet. Yeah. There's a guy at 54 Eldritch, which is where our lab is, and uh, we call the man Coconut Feet because he sits outside with a freaking paring knife and carves the calluses off of his feet, and it looks like shavings of coconut on the on the side of the street, right? We never learned his actual name.
+
+[15:33] We just call him coconut foot, right? And the wind picks up. Oh, Jesus. Now you're killing me. Now you're killing me.
+
+[15:40] Uh let's see. Okay. Uh Travis Hawkins wrote in uh on the Twitter love uh the crap you give Nastasha for her friends tomatoes in the fridge. Uh yeah, yeah, nice, right? Nice.
+
+[15:50] Uh he's just now Sasha's like, great, here comes more punishment. No, no, no punishment for you. Uh could you do a show on other common kitchen uh oh I thought you said kit kitchen football. I thought you said refrigerator faux pas. Yeah we could probably do a whole show on kitchen faux pas.
+
+[16:00] But I was just thinking you mean refrigerator. Don't put like don't go to get mozzarella here, I'll just do some refrigerator stuff for you. Don't go to uh don't go to the the you know buy your fresh mozzarella and then put it in the fridge unless you really are an enemy of quality. Like uh do you don't put fresh mozzarella in the fridge do you? No.
+
+[16:18] Because you're gonna eat it that day anyway. I mean and you can leave it out the whole damn day. It's gonna change a little bit but the texture is better. I'd rather have it take on a little bit of a tang than have it get its texture ruined by being in in in the fridge. Now theoretically if you let that giant ball of mozzarella temper out all the way through to room temperature it will they say get back to where it was but I don't believe it and I've done side by side taste tests and the refrigerator just ruins it.
+
+[16:41] So don't put that there. I actually um if you okay now here's where Nastasha's like Maddie daddy mom. If you happen to have a uh a wine cooler or a place of that temperature I store usually all of my cheese that way instead of storing it in the fridge because it's much faster and I hate it when someone takes a nice piece of cheese and they leave it in the fridge and they forget to pull it out. You know you're gonna forget to pull it out. Like if you're me, like I'll pull that crap out hours beforehand.
+
+[17:09] Like like at lunchtime if I know I have nice cheese and it's been in the fridge I'm like I'm gonna pull that sucker out like around lunchtime so that like right before dinner when we want to eat the cheese do you are you before cheese uh before dinner cheese or after dinner cheese? Really? I when I'm out when I like when I'm home I like dinner of the cheese beforehand. When I'm out I really like a cheese plate at the end of the meal. And also I obviously like stilton at the end of the meal because that's when I want my port.
+
+[17:31] I want my port at the end of the meal and port and stilton I hey, look, I know it's tripe, but that is one of the that is one of the few straight up delicious food pairings in the world where uh food wine pairings. Like most food and wine pairings, people are like, eh, mm-hmm. No, that one is really actually good. Do you like port and stilton? It's it's good.
+
+[17:46] Walnuts, port, stilton. Okay. Uh so cheese. Uh avocados, do not store them in the fridge until they are ripe. Once they're ripe, you may store them in the fridge.
+
+[17:55] But do not put a freaking baseball uh hard avocado in the fridge. Nastasha has a California girl, can appreciate this. Uh well, you probably like swimming in avocados. Yeah, we had a huge tree. Yeah.
+
+[18:08] You know, like, so you never had the situation happen like you do here where you're like, I need one tonight and they're all hard. And they're all well, I don't buy I don't I don't shop into a fancy five dollar avocado neighborhoods. Down by you? You gotta go to Styles, Farmers. No, no, even those like you they can be when they're out of season.
+
+[18:25] Yeah, well, like luckily I live in a neighborhood that plows through avocados like the end of the world is coming, so there's a huge amount of competition for the consumers' avocado dollars in my neighborhood. And so I never pay more than uh like at tops, like at the worst of times, $250 for the Haas, you know, and sometimes much, much less, like 99 cents. Anyway, whatever. I'm sure yeah, you California people are like laughing. Like, they're free for me.
+
+[18:48] I live in California or in Florida, you know what I mean? Whatever. You know, we have our advantages out here. Hey, you you moved out here. You feel more like a New Yorker.
+
+[18:55] Yeah, yeah, I know I know. I mean right now I don't know what our advantages are. Well, we don't have weather advantages. I mean, like, you know, it's whatever. I don't know.
+
+[19:02] I've never I mean I I have lived in California, but I was too young to remember it. Uh coffee. Do not store coffee in the uh fridge. Uh that I don't mean the beverage. I mean, you know, the the product.
+
+[19:13] You're gonna get condensation as it comes in and out of the fridge or in the freezer, and the water is gonna do you damage. Don't do that. Uh do not, do not store bread in the fridge. Holy crap. How many times have you seen people do this?
+
+[19:26] Why would you put bread in the fridge? It's like it's, it's refrigeration is the like retrogradation of starch is vastly, vastly sped up by refrigeration. And I've said it before on the show a couple of times, so general rule of thumb is is that freezing of bread, right, it is uh you need to do it rapidly because just the just the amount of time that it stays in the unfrozen zone before it freezes in that horrible retrogradation like heavy zone right around refrigeration temperatures, the amount of time it spends there just as it's freezing and thawing out again is equivalent to uh roughly a full day's of staling uh sitting on your counter. So do not store breads unless they're so jacked with like you know emulsifiers and anti-staling agents like Wonder Bread that it doesn't really freaking matter. That's that doesn't really matter.
+
+[20:14] I mean that's more of like a miracle of chemistry than bread right potatoes do not store potatoes in the fridge unless you don't mind the fact that they're going to increase their sugar content and so then if you're going to fry them or something like that they'll get overly brown. If you don't care about that do whatever you like. It's a waste of freaking space to store uh you know I don't know I don't know which of you people out there have so much freaking space that you can just throw five pound bags of potatoes into your fridge without breaking a sweat but if you're that person and you're not going to fry them and you're not worried about the extra sugar content and you're an enemy of quality go ahead and do it. Many herbs should not be stored in the refrigerator if you're going to do long term storage. I do this because I don't know because I'm a jerk but you know you get the herbs you bring them home you put them in a plastic bag you throw them in the thing and two days later what happens?
+
+[20:58] They get that weird glossy gross look they smell like a swamp, and uh you've got tissue damage where they get all waterlogged. You know what I'm talking about, styles, right? Better to do what Nastasha does at 54 Eldritch, which is she puts a glass of water and she sticks the herb into it and it sits there for you know a bazillion years. Now, she has the unfortunate habit of then never using the freaking herb. You smell bad for throwing it out.
+
+[21:18] Yeah, well, kudos to that. That's actually a good instinct. Uh onion, I don't like storing onions in the in the fridge. I'm just worried it's going to transfer. I don't know.
+
+[21:27] I just don't do it. I don't know that it's actually bad, although some people say it is. I've never had a nightmare happen, and people have stored onions in my fridge, but I don't do it. Um here's a reverse faux pas, stuff you should store in your fridge, but maybe don't. Apples, store your apples in the fridge.
+
+[21:43] As soon as you get apples home, store them in the fridge. If you pick apples, store them in the fridge. Apples, as when they're at room temperature, they're respiring. Do I hate that word? I kind of like it, respire.
+
+[21:56] They're uh and what's happening is is they're um losing malic acid, right? Uh and uh and and changing and ripening on the thing. So, like if you if you want to you know have it go, if you want to lose your texture, if you want it to go uh overripe on you, if you want to lose the acid, and and very few cooks want to lose acid in an apple, then by all means, uh, you know, don't put it in the fridge. But if you want it, if you want to keep those flavors, it's like we had those ash meets kernels in, those really expensive apples, and they got left out of the walk-in because someone was like, Oh, you don't need to refrigerate those apples because they're not gonna go bad. And in fact, we took you know a lot of money in a very fancy apple, and in short order, we erased a lot of its awesome characteristics because it went from being kind of at peak with its good acid content to being lower in acid than I liked and a little overripe.
+
+[22:49] And as you know, like apples, when they get overripe, they get uh a little bit floral. They end up tasting not necessarily in a good way, but more like a Fuji. You know how Fuji's have that kind of floral sugary taste? They tend to go in that kind of direction, and of course they get mealier, which doesn't matter to me because I'm gonna juice the hell out of them anyway. But it's amazing to me how otherwise trained food professionals can't taste around the texture of an apple.
+
+[23:09] Uh it's inherently bad. Citrus. Citrus, you can keep it outside of the fridge, but the quality of it stays better if it's in the fridge. Now, if you have cases of lime sitting around, it's not reasonable to put them in the fridge, fine. But if you have a very expensive uh, you know, setsuma or something like this, and you want to maintain its quality, uh, I would keep it in the fridge just to maintain its quality.
+
+[23:29] Uh the grapefruit, especially, I think, needs to be refrigerated to maintain its quality, otherwise the flavor starts to go. At least I've read about it. I don't have as much. And uh, sweet corn, especially older style sweet corns that aren't like have like all the super sweet genes in them, the colder they are, the better they'll keep their sweetness. The best thing to do is not stir those suckers at all, is to just to buy those suckers and cook them right away.
+
+[23:46] That's the best thing, right? Mm-hmm. Yeah. So I was like, I don't care. Okay.
+
+[23:50] Uh all right. Shall we take a uh break? Yeah. Let's go to commercial break, come right back with the cooking issues. Is the only farm in the United States that has its own USDA inspected red meat abattoir or slaughterhouse, and it's USDA inspected poultry abattoir or slaughterhouse.
+
+[24:27] We partner with whole foods to deliver our high quality meat and poultry from Miami, Florida, all the way to Princeton, New Jersey. One family, one farm, five generations, 145 years. A full circle return to sustainable land stewardship, humanium animal stockmanship. For more information, please visit our website, Whiteoak Pastures.com. Oh, yeah.
+
+[25:00] I love the way he says abattoir. Abatois. Uh speaking of uh abattoir, uh the what do you like? Do you like slaughterhouse better or you like abattoir? I'm slaughterhouse.
+
+[25:11] Really? Yeah. I love the that's one of the things I like about style. She's like, give me the blunt stuff. Go blunt.
+
+[25:18] You know what I mean? Like, much better to go blunt. And speaking of blunt, there was uh on Sunday a I don't know whether it's a piece. What is it? It's not an opinion piece, it's just a an article in the New York Times about uh a slaughterhouse in San Francisco.
+
+[25:34] Uh, and uh her first name just went out of my head. It's Nyman, one of the owners of Nyman Ranch. Christoph? No, no, no. This is like a blog.
+
+[25:43] No, no, anyway. I'll I'll figure it out. Anyway, she wrote uh an article on it because the slaughterhouse that they use was affected, and there was a recall on all the meat that was slaughtered in 2013 at this slaughterhouse in the Bay Area, and uh because uh there was some there was some uh unsound uh cows that had been slaughtered in that place. And so the USDA response was to initiate a facility wide recall, even though, right, that the the cows that Nyman Ranch had slaughtered there are, you know, were totally fine, and we're under a lot of uh of scrutiny. And she was saying how ineffective our uh legislation is uh at dealing with situations like this.
+
+[26:26] So I'm not gonna get into the details of it, but I encourage you to go to the New York Times, as I think it was on Sunday, and uh look it up and check out kind of what's going on with uh with regulations and the way that it's uh harming small-scale producers who are trying to do uh the right thing by producing uh humane sustainable meat. Caller, you're on the air. Uh yeah, Dave, Dan, Seattle. Um couple of questions, uh both related to ramen. Okay.
+
+[26:51] Um, first of all, are you familiar with Yuzu Kashu, the Japanese citrus pepper paste? Uh yes. I mean, I I I I don't use it much myself, but yeah, I'm familiar with it. Okay. I've just I've gone crazy for the stuff, and I'm using a ton of it.
+
+[27:07] And I mostly use it, I mostly souvita sou v pork with it, which if you haven't never tried that, I recommend it. But the stuff is crushingly expensive in the quantities that I'm using it in. And when you cook the heck out of it for 24, 36 hours, I'm thinking that some subtlety gets lost anyway. Do you off the top of your head have an idea about how to go about faking this from iron juice rind and whatever? Well, that's the thing.
+
+[27:33] Yuzu has a very particular flavor, and it, you know, uh, and it has to do with uh the you know, not just the f the fruit itself, but the oils that are in the rind, right? So there are other citruses that are available, and on the West Coast, I mean there are people who produce Yuzu commercially, and it would probably be I mean it's still fantastically expensive. I've at the last time uh we bought some, I I forget what it was some unconscionable amount of money, like a couple dollars per fruit or something like that. But um, it's definitely that would be uh a cheaper way, but I I've never found I found other citrus, like weird citrus. Gene Lester is a fine, you know, a collector of citrus in California in Watsonville, and you know, Nastasha and Harold McGee and I went over to his ranch and we tasted a bunch of stuff.
+
+[28:23] And they um he had some citrus that like that like was he had Yuzu, which was delicious, he had bergamot, which was great, but he also had like weird citrus that I've never had before that had some of these like strange oils in them that would make a good substitute. But I can't think of uh anything offhand. I am sure though, that this is one of those things that hope hopefully one of our listeners will uh tweet on in something, some recommendation that they have to to get it done. Um but you know, it might be cheaper, like how much do they charge for it? It it's two or three dollars an ounce in the and the three ounce things that they'll sell little jars that they'll sell it to you in.
+
+[29:03] And it's a it's a blend of Yuzu, to uh Togurachi and um salt. Yeah. I mean, I'm sure you could fake it. Uh you know what? We'll figure out how to fake.
+
+[29:11] I'm sure uh if you can find a supply of the Yuzu, it might actually be cheaper just to just to to make it, you know. Uh uh, because they're definitely upselling you on it. You know where they make it? Do they make it stateside or they ship it in? I believe the stuff I'm buying is from Japan.
+
+[29:26] I mean, it's you you can't find an English letter on the box, hardly. Yeah, so you're you mean look, you're you're just getting ruined by like everything there, like the cost of producing Yuzu over there, like how crappy our dollar is versus uh the yen in terms of buying power over there and the shipping. You're just getting it every which way on that. So if you could find like a California producer of Yuzu, uh, you know, I'm sure that there's someone that that ships the fruit up there, you could probably adjust the flavor to however you want. You know what I mean?
+
+[29:54] And you could probably come in way under the line on that. I just never done it, so I you know, I hesitate to give you any recommendations right off the bat, you know what I mean? Uh so but but you think it would be a lot if I can figure out where to buy an entire case of Yuzu, it would you think it will be quite a bit cheaper? Uh oh, a case of Yuzu is gonna set you back. One time, uh I forget some Japanese chef was doing Star Chefs, and Nils and I, he ordered two use he ordered he ordered two Yuzu, and they gave him two cases instead.
+
+[30:21] And Nils and I just took that thing and we made clarified like fresh clarified yuzu and uh did carbonated cocktails with it. But I mean, I'm pretty sure we blasted through a couple hundred dollars of Yuzu in that on that day. I mean, you're gonna I mean you're still probably gonna be buying them by the by the piece. I don't know that I don't know you're gonna want to invest in a caseload yet, but you know, like uh look out here you can buy uh Yuzu by the piece for a couple bucks a piece at um at some of the Japanese uh markets. The Japanese markets will have, you know, even ones that just do prepared foods that that serve that sell any kind of uh Japanese products for cooking away, usually you'll have one or two sitting around, maybe even if you're lucky, some Sudachi to mess around with, which are also expensive and delicious.
+
+[31:04] Uh thank you very much. Um uh that's certainly enough to start on on that one. Um related question. Um I'm trying to figure out f fresh ramen noodles. Um, and I've got a couple of decent recipes for I mean the actual, you know, how much uh how much flour, how much lime water, how much gluten, yada yada.
+
+[31:27] Right. But I've got a brand new meat grinder that comes with the larger whole disc is about the right size. Do you have an opinion whether the pressures to push dough through that would just blow the thing apart? Yeah, I am I I am very skeptical that that will work just because I've never seen anyone do pasta in the the meat grinder and I know that the pasta extruder attachment for the Kitchen aids doesn't really do much of anything at all. Uh I I've had that unfortunate experience, yes.
+
+[32:05] Yeah, I know. It's no it's no good. I mean every you know everyone wishes we had the you know what the ideas and food guys have, which is that arco Bellino or similar uh extruder. Um the ram what what's the hydration on the ramen noodle recipe that you have? I would ha I would have to look it up, but it's fairly high.
+
+[32:24] I mean it's there's there's quite a bit of water in it. Yeah and my my br my like uh my brain is a erased now is it is it steam or boil before fry or fry and then steam? I always forget and then dry. I think it's I think it's I think it's quick steam or f or boil, then fry, then dry, I think. My brain is totally erased on this though.
+
+[32:43] Um well the the recipe I have, which is actually off an excellent blog called Tessa's Japanese Kitchen or something close to that. Right. Um she makes the noodles fresh and just boils them. But I mean I mean I don't think itself a mild simplification of the full deal. Yeah you need a fry step.
+
+[33:02] Well I guess maybe not like if you're gonna make it fresh, what am I talking about? Like I guess not. Like but we know the commercial one they're like the ramen noodle that you know we grow up with they're fried to expel the water and get a little grease in so that they absorb a lot of the water from whatever they're placed in. You know what I mean? Yes.
+
+[33:18] Uh so they have a fry step involved with it, but perhap you know perhaps uh you know this is something I would I would defer to someone with actual uh cultural experience as opposed to you know just you know an American's experience of what ramen is like um so I don't know maybe that's the case maybe a fry step is not required but I know commercially that's what's done. And whatnot. But um all right so but regardless the meat grinder thing is unlikely to work. Hey look I don't think you're gonna ruin the meat grinder I just think it's not gonna work. Okay so you think it would just it would just not make noodles.
+
+[33:53] Yeah well what do you what are you attaching the meat grinder to what kind is it is it standalone with a big powerful motor? Yes it it's a standalone half okay I've I had one KitchenAid tack on meat grinder and it lasted like four or five years. It was great I mean it wasn't great but it was perfectly adequate. It finally died I literally wore the bearings out the bushings out in it. Yeah well what I but but oh sh calm down Captain but then the new one um cracks in a in a month.
+
+[34:24] They changed it cheapened at something Cabella's half horsepower and um I mean if it bogs down I mean here's my here's my thing. If the motor starts bogging down and heating up then obviously I'd I'd hold back on it. But I think you're gonna be alright you know it's alright to test it. I don't think you're gonna shatter it mean as long as the gears in it uh assuming it's geared down which it has to be otherwise it would go crazy assuming the gears are of some sort of uh metal uh and you don't crush it hard fast you know what I mean like you you you kind of sneak up on it a little bit. I think you're gonna be alright.
+
+[35:03] I mean, most of the time when you know gears break in mechanisms like that, it's because of a hard stop, you know. Alright, so you don't. It's not likely, but you don't think it will result in metal parts flying across the road. Uh, do not think it will. I mean, uh I won't hold you to that.
+
+[35:18] All right, very good. And you're gonna obviously want to uh you're gonna need some method to space it that allows you to remove the uh the cutting blade from the from the inside of the grinder. Yeah, um, I I can surely find something to stick with stainless steel something to stick in there for that. Yeah, or double you could double plate it. Uh no, because it'll rotate.
+
+[35:40] Well, I mean I can do that I think I can just use stainless steel washers. Yeah, all right. Yeah, just you know, you don't want the blade in there because obviously that's gonna be hacking the stuff right when you want it to be whole. Got it. Yep.
+
+[35:51] Thank you very much. Alrighty, good luck with it. All righty. Uh we have a question in from Lucas. Like Lucas.
+
+[36:02] Yes, we do need to cook his meat. Yeah. We we certain we most certainly we should do that soon. Mm-hmm. We we we just got a lot of stuff off our plate.
+
+[36:08] We can do that soon. As soon as we as soon as we get the prototype approved for the Sears all, it's gonna be a load off my mind. I can start uh thinking about cooking again. You know what I mean? Doing some real cooking.
+
+[36:17] Uh hi, Nastasha, Dave, Jack, and Joe, and Evan now. Uh as you know, I love the show. Long time listener. I heard about Dave's restaurant quality espresso machine he bought from a uh from an Italian mobster while fighting rat infestation. True story, but uh what I don't what I don't think I mentioned is that the guy that I paid to take it home in my car was a a guy who had just gotten out of Rikers for dealing crack and was setting up a uh a food truck downtown, and I accidentally he was like a weird guy.
+
+[36:46] He he w refused to refer to me as anything but white boy. And like the and I don't know, I paid him 20 bucks to take it home because when you buy stuff at an auction, it's as is where is, right? You don't get to choose, you know, you it it you know you gotta get that thing out of there right now. And I accidentally left the pump. Uh the act, you know, the actual like uh you know, the um uh it's a rotary vein pump that they use in espresso machines, real ones, and uh I left it in his freaking car.
+
+[37:09] So I had to go out there to his house, which was craziness, craziness to get it. But you know, he actually he's a nice guy. I mean, look, I mean, uh uh other than the other than the doing time for dealing crack, he seemed like a and calling me white boy incessantly. Did you have to call him and say this is white boy? I left my I liter I literally did.
+
+[37:29] Like, I I forget like why I even had the guy's number or was able to find him. But because he, I don't know, he was like, you know, look up my food truck or whatever, like this, but like I was like, hey, remember white boy with the espresso machine? I was like, which is it's uh yeah, it's an uncomfortable thing to have to refer to yourself as in the therapy. Hey, whatever anyway. Uh okay, well, fighting rat infestation.
+
+[37:51] I recently bought a house outside of the village and suddenly found myself in need of making coffee. I drink exclusively espresso and wanted to follow in Dave's steps and buy something used, possibly cheap. The question I have is most of the machines I saw are advertising 450 watts of power consumption. I assume this is during the heating process, uh, not once it's uh just kept on standing alone. Basically, how much power does this thing need on a regular basis?
+
+[38:16] Uh, and did you uh change the water tank to a smaller one? Do you keep it on all the time? Can you use it to mu uh uh can you uh use it to modify it to operate it without access to um uh water, you know, fresh fresh water on on tap. I would love to have it in the living or dining room rather than the kitchen. The second completely unrelated question I want is to work on my Indian cooking.
+
+[38:36] Where do you buy good quality spices in the city? I know of Le Boit in Midtown, but this is already uh mixed spices, and part of the fun of Indian cooking is mixing them yourself, kind of regards Lucas. Let's go in reverse order here. So for spices, I don't really have a source of like the super highest quality stuff. You know, I end up buying most of my spices at dual specialty shop on First Avenue and like around six or something like that or seventh, and Calustians, and then there's a uh there's another couple of spice shops that are right around Calustian's, you know, in the 20s on uh Lex.
+
+[39:06] But uh, you know, it look I love those stores, and I you know, I'm I'm not saying anything negative about them, but sometimes they you know, this stuff's been sitting around a lot. And you know, Piper and I used to joke around that everything has like the Calustean smell, which is not look, it's not an insult, it's just like they got a lot of spices hanging around there, and not all the product moves all the time. But if you're buying whole products there, a lot of times you can get really you know high high quality stuff. And for instance, I know dual specialty sometimes has the uh assafetida, the hang in kind of these block chunks, and I find and you might hey microplane, there's another microplane thing, acetata, the the chunks of hang. Uh when it's in that chunk form, even though I think they still have it mixed with fenigreek and all that crap, it's just much less accurate and better in that format.
+
+[39:48] Now, on to the coffee machines. Here is here's the thing. Uh it uses a boatload of power. They're they're all of those, so you're looking at a two group or three group machine. Uh you can get a single group espresso machine.
+
+[40:03] Now, the old the the newer ones are, you know, they're fantastically expensive, like the Lammar Tsoko single groups. The single group espresso machines, by and large, you can run those things off of a hundred and twenty volts single phase, and they're gonna pull somewhere in the area of 1500 watts or something like that, right? So doable uh off of a normal plug. They think they want you to use a 20 amp plug off of 120, but it's not 100% necessary. Uh once you're in a two-group or uh situation uh or more, you're gonna need uh you're gonna need 240.
+
+[40:34] And I think maybe even some of the bigger ones might need 208, but I'm not sure. The one that I had, which is a dual group ranchillo, required uh you know, two two twenty slash whatever, two forty regular, you know, uh regular power, not three phase or anything like this. Now the the thing is you have to the advantage of these large machines is that uh they have a much more stable uh temperature profile in the shot than a smaller machine. And the reason is that the way uh a traditional heat exchanger, commercial espresso machine, the way it regulates itself is by having a very, very large thermal mass. And so they dump a lot a lot of heat into it and they radiate a lot of heat out of it.
+
+[41:19] And so that and and that's the the way the way it does it. And the bigger the ship, like the the less it steers around with little changes, like pulling a shot here or there. So in a in a in a in an old style um espresso machine, in other words, old style, meaning like a heat exchange espresso machine, and not like some PID dual boiler, blah blah blah blah blah. Although I have to say I've had shots out of some of those, and I still think that I like the the bigger machines end up being better. But if you were to taste the same barista, the same make of machine, the same everything, except for uh the barista was pulling one shot out of a single group and uh one shot out of a two-group, odds are the shot out of the two group is gonna be more consistent and better.
+
+[42:02] That's just the way it is. I don't think you get that much of an advantage if you're really only pulling one shot at a time out of a three-group or more. I think that once you get up to a two-group espresso machine, the stability the temperature stability is just a lot better. Now but it does throw a lot of heat out. In my experience from a two group from the 80s, which is what I was using, uh I had around a 15 minute heat up time.
+
+[42:25] Now everyone's going to disagree and says that it takes longer for it to get stable and all this, but whatever. Give yourself a half hour, put it on a timer, have it set to turn on a half hour before you get up in the morning and ha and have it have it go on. And if you you know you shoot hot water through it you can heat the heads up you know relatively quickly. You don't have to sit there and wait for everything to stabilize because you can pump water through it. Now I'm about to discourage you from having it in your living room and here's why.
+
+[42:50] It's messy. So you you need a knockbox and you have those grinds everywhere you're going to want a source of water to wipe down the grinds and to get all that stuff out and to rinse out the uh to rinse out your your your um the porta filter uh and all and all this other stuff. So I you know unless you can run a small amount of water near the machine like I've I always want it near the sink so I can you know rinse the parts when they're done I can scrub underneath with a scotch brite when it when it's done it's just much more convenient to have it in a kitchen setting. And having that sucker plumbed into the water supply through a filter is life changingly awesome. Now you can get around that you can take and you could install uh fundamentally what's like a water cooler with a gravity feed into a uh pump you know or from a corny keg into the uh rotary vein pump that those machines use and you can run it off a gravity feed with filtered water in uh you know, in a living room, but then you have to figure out a way to get rid of the wastewater as well because every time you pull a shot, when the uh when the three-way the solenoid kicks in, you're shooting a little bit of water out.
+
+[43:56] Every time you clean it, you're shooting water out. When you're putting the blind in to clean it and do all that stuff, you're shooting water out. So it tends to dump a bunch of water, and you need some place for that to go. And so you either have some sort of a like a improvised larger drip tray, or you have it plumbed into so like wherever your dishwasher goes in, I have a separate takeoff where my dishwasher goes in. I have a condensate pump that sits on the floor of my kitchen underneath the sink.
+
+[44:20] The espresso machine gravity feeds into the condensate pump, and then the condensate pump pops it through a check valve so I don't get backsplashing into the drain line right next to where my washing machine drains into the uh tap. And that's how I do it. Uh that's what I'd recommend. I don't know technically, because it's been a long time, so I couldn't, I know I I now have one that runs on 120 because I don't have uh, you know, I don't have 220 in my in my apartment. So I couldn't throw an ammeter across my old uh guy, but they do suck power at the get-go.
+
+[44:48] I don't know what their steady state usage is, but once they're heated up, they don't use as much. You can you can feel when it clicks in and when it doesn't, you can see there's a pressure stat. And the way that the espresso those espresso machines work is is that they they come on when uh the pressure stat shows that the boiler pressures drop below a certain specified pressure. Anyways, so uh good luck with that. Um is that alright?
+
+[45:11] Yeah, you have like five minutes. Five? What time is it? 49. 49.
+
+[45:15] So I got like six minutes. So I got I got I got ten, but you're gonna give me five because you know I'm gonna go for ten anyway. It's 55 afterwards. No, jeebus. Alright, so I'm gonna have to go fast.
+
+[45:24] Uh hi, uh Nastasha, Dave, Jack, and Joe. Uh I asked the questions uh a couple weeks back about the off taste in Agar. I went back to telephone brand. Flavor gone. Good.
+
+[45:35] Uh using the same juice. I was using uh uh molecu the brand he he wrote R Molecule, but literally the brand is molecule R. Get it? Molecular brand before because uh they sold in bulk. I tasted the Agar alone and it's nasty stuff.
+
+[45:55] Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Actually, the same brand my mom used when I was a kid. Go figure. Hey, telephone, generation to generation. Telephone's the best.
+
+[46:03] Call up your friends. Use a telephone. You know what? Like, I don't even like do you like uh do you like that package? Like, I'm so used to that package.
+
+[46:10] Everyone likes it. Oh, I love it. I love telephone. I I just like the I like uh, you know, it's it's more expensive, I guess, than buying it in bulk, but whatever, telephone. Uh anyways, I have a few questions about Pectinx and adding body to low alcohol drinks.
+
+[46:22] As a brewer, I've been using uh generic powdered pectic enzyme from the homebrew store. Is there any benefit to using Pectonex Ultra SPL or are all pectinases created equal? No, they are not. Uh Thomas, this is Thomas from uh San Francisco. They are not created equal.
+
+[46:40] So the one you're using in brewing is probably optimized fine for whatever it's for uh there. But the the enzyme that I use, the ultra SPL, is very broad-based. It's not a single enzyme, in other words. What what they are is they're a group of enzymes that are produced by a particular strain of, I believe Aspergillus that uh that the good folks at Novozyme have isolated that produces a rather uh uh non-specific broad range uh pectinase and hemicellulase and some not much cellulase activity. So it's much more of a like an enzymatic baseball bat to use the SPL.
+
+[47:22] So when I called up Novazymes years ago when I was trying to figure out kind of what enzymes to use, because we had been using something called Pectinx uh Smash, XXL, which is uh optimized for the apple uh industry to increase the yield out of apple pumice when they're pressing to get juice and it's optimized for that. And she look literally, she said to me, Look, you know, if you're only going to use one enzyme, just use the SPL. That does everything that anything else is going to do. Uh it's just like it just it just takes care of it all. It's not optimized for any one industry, and so perhaps it's possibly more expensive on a per liter basis, but you're not using that much of it.
+
+[47:57] It's non-industrial, and it works on everything. So they use that in like olives to increase yield out of uh olives. Uh they use that in uh you could use it in apples, I use it in apples all the time. It's just really broad range stuff. And so, no, they're not all the same with amylases, like a lot of people uh you know use amylase to to break things down uh and they're not all the same either.
+
+[48:18] Uh, you know, just talk to the folks who convert uh potatoes into into vodka without doing you know using any sort of match and stuff. It's all just with it with the right choice of enzymes to get um you know as complete conversion as humanly possible. Okay. Secondly, do you have any recommendations for way to uh uh ways to add body to low uh alcohol by volume drinks, i.e. back sweetening ciders, etc.
+
+[48:41] I'm looking for something with high body effects but low sweetening. So far, I've been using beet sugar with good results, but wanted to see if you had any thoughts on the subject. Uh uh, thanks for all the work you do, Thomas from uh San Francisco. Okay, so the uh the issue here is that um the issue is that if you're adding sugar, you can use sugar, but it's gonna make it sweeter. You want it less sweet.
+
+[49:01] Also, if you're gonna store something for a long time that has live yeast in it, obviously the sugar is gonna ferment. Uh and so, you know, a lot of times people want to add for botting for sweetness now, for sweetness in body. They add a non-fermentable sugar like xylitol. Too much xylitol, and it runs through you like well, like crap through a tin goose, or it's crap through a goose. That's what Patton said, right?
+
+[49:18] We're gonna run through them like crap through a goose. Isn't that what he said? Something like that. Anyways, and oh crap does run through geese. Man, I hate geese.
+
+[49:26] Anyway, uh they're good eat. But the um point is that uh you want it non-sweet. So what you're gonna want to do, I think, is find something like glucose syrup. Now, glucose syrup uh is actually uh it has some glucose in it, which is sweet, but it's also got a lot of uh dextrins in it. Things like you know, uh like higher order polysaccharides that are roughly tasteless but add a lot of body and under society benefit, they're not very fermentable.
+
+[49:50] So a lot of times when I want to make something very dense, like a liquid very dense, without using without making it sweet, I'll put in glucose syrup. Uh and you look at you want like a very low DE, the dextrose equivalent on the glucose syrup, because that means that it, you know, very little of it's been converted all the way to glucose, and you have a lot of uh, you know, larger chain polysaccharides that are gonna add a lot of body but aren't gonna add any sweetness at all. Glucose syrup is you know very dully sweet, very, very dully sweet. And you can buy it at uh you know um pastry supply houses. Um, uh Tony, you asked me a question about soda and cocktails.
+
+[50:27] I don't know if I'm gonna have time to get to it. Uh so I'm gonna get you next time uh and I'll get you some more information about value. Tony from Brazil, our friend from Brazil, wrote in to ask about uh carbonated cocktails on tap, and it's gonna take me too long to go into the rant on carbonated cocktails to to deal with here. Nastash is like shuddering, just thinking about it. So put it on next week's uh topic and we'll talk about it.
+
+[50:47] But Sam, I've missed you uh two uh weeks uh in uh uh a row, uh, and I thought I was gonna be able to get Mark Ladner on to uh discuss it, but uh I I couldn't make it work. So I'm gonna just read your question and I'll give you some brief thoughts right now. What's the best approach for homemade pasta sheets in uh lasagna bolognese? How do you like that? Bologna.
+
+[51:05] Say it with me, says. No. Come on. All right. Uh Marcella Hazan has you pre-blanch and rinse the pasta beforehand to combat sogginess.
+
+[51:12] Is this necessary compared to classic pasta dough recipe of one-ish cups of flour for about one egg? How do other pasta doughs compare? Like Keller's uh 12 egg yolk pasta, or I've read seven, or gluten dough pasta found in Modern Scuisina home. Thanks, Sam. Uh here's the deal.
+
+[51:27] Uh yeah, you want to pre cook that to form the uh to form the uh the structure. I should say I've never done it without cooking it, but I've always cooked lasagna before I've uh, you know, fresh lasagna before I've uh put it into because you want the protein to set and you want to uh have it bind and coagulate so that it doesn't get all uh trying to think of a non uh word I can use without non-cursing word. Anyway, shid yard. You know what I mean? Like you want it to be okay.
+
+[51:54] So but uh I don't know that for a fact. That's a question like maybe Stas can just ask Mark and repeat report back next week. But the thing on uh egg yolks versus eggs, I did a lot of research uh on this one, and there's some interesting articles on it. So if you look on the internet, most people will tell you that aside from the flavor and the color that you that you get in egg yolks, a lot of people say that if you do egg, I've always, by the way, this is just you know, for me, just so you know where I'm coming from. I was always a uh a whole egg guy.
+
+[52:20] I never I never did egg yolks uh and I never did egg whites. I always use whole eggs, always. And I would typically use one egg uh for every cup of whole of flour, and then I would add enough water to get the hydration where I wanted. That's just what I've always done, you know, since since I've started, you know, making pasta in my twenties. So the uh but it's a very interesting thing.
+
+[52:42] Now, if you look on the internet, a lot of people who are, you know, cooking, you know, practically cooking will tell you that the um the egg yolk one is harder, right? Uh and like you know, harder to knead and and chewyer and stuff like this. But I think they're making a fundamental uh mental error, and that is this. Egg yolk is uh has much less water in it than an egg white does. Like the water content of an egg yolk is only like somewhere close to uh you know a f the solids are high.
+
+[53:12] The solids are in the 50% range, when you include the fats and proteins and everything like that, there's not nearly as much water in an egg yolk as there is in an egg white. So in a study of um in a study that you can uh go read, I'm trying to get it to you before uh they rip the microphone off of me. If you go to uh modeling of fresh egg pasta characteristics for egg content and albumin to yolk ratio by uh Christina Alampreci, uh from this was in the Juno Journal of Food Engineering in 2009. And another good uh one is uh getting the name of it for you, uh for cooking of it is the influence of hydrothermal treatment on rheological and cooking characteristics of fresh egg pasta by a uh nuviari. Um but if you go to that first egg one, they say that actually if you adjust for the amount of water that's in the egg product that you're doing, that adding egg uh increases the uh the structure of the dough, something like fresh pasta, because you're increasing the protein content.
+
+[54:17] And in fact, the protein content, the most important one of them is from the white, is the ovalbumin, and that's what's forming the structure that's causing it to be firmer and have that firmer feeling of an of an egg pasta. Now, uh the homemade rather egg pasta, right? Uh so if you account for the water, the more egg yolk that you add, right, the um the less firm it is uh and uh the less firm it is when it's cooked, the softer it is, and the radically higher the fat content is. My feeling is is that is that people who say it's harder are making a lower hydration dough than they would normally make by using egg yolks and taking advantage of the plasticizing effect and the lubricating effect of the fat in the egg yolk, and it's allowing them to make what they can uh uh a more workable dough that is firmer because it's gonna have a fundamentally lower moisture content, and that's my feeling, but I'm gonna try to do a little more research on it and get back to it uh on next week, or maybe if we can get Mark. And on the way out, uh we had a uh final call, and we actually someone sent us this on the Twitter beforehand, but um Don't tell them why, just tell them to call it.
+
+[55:23] All right. Oh, yeah. I'm not gonna tell you, but uh I'm not gonna tell you uh why to why to do this, all right? But Damon Sisko wants you to call. Uh where's the number, Stas?
+
+[55:32] Do you have it on the thing? But the number got erased off my phone. Oh, no, you might have it. Hold on. Just a minute.
+
+[55:37] All right, Stas is gonna tell you to dial this number. It's not, it's not unpleasant, it's not, it's not pornographic, it's not gonna charge you any money. Doesn't cost any money. Nastasha's about to read you a telephone number, and when she reads it, I want you to write this number down, and then I want you to call it. 719 266 2837.
+
+[55:55] One more time. 719 266 2837. Have a good week, cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes Store by searching Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[56:21] You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by S. Wallace Edwardson Sons, third generation Cure Masters producing the country's best dry cured and aged hams, bacon, and sausage. For more information, visit SurreyFarms.com. I'm Michael Lameko from Food Talk. You're listening to Herdage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwood Brooklyn.
+
+[0:20] If you like this program, visit heritage radio network.org for thousands more. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you live from the Heritage Radio Network on Roberta's Pizzery in Bushwig, Brooklyn, every Tuesday from roughly 12 to roughly 1245. A little bit late today, kind of as normal. Join the studio with uh Nastasha uh the hammer Lopez.
+
+[0:48] How are you doing, Stas? Good. Good. And uh who do we got there in the engineering? We got Jack.
+
+[0:52] And Evan. Hey, Evan. I rushed in so quickly because I was late that uh a lot of you know uh the weather must be changing because I saw a lot of signs of illicit love on the streets walking over here in Bushwick. Do you really? Do you miss do you miss the uh the overnight detritus on the streets of Bushwick now that you've moved to Manhattan?
+
+[1:11] You're moving back to Bushwick? No, bed style. Oh. Well, I noticed that you didn't change your uh your uh Twitter whatever in the hell it's called. Whatever in the hell it's still says Bushwick?
+
+[1:21] Still says Bushwick. Sub slow. But wait, what's illicit love in the streets? Uh well, I'm just assuming that if you have to throw your spence away on the streets that you're not uh, you know, you're not doing anything. Oh, I can.
+
+[1:32] Yeah. Gotcha. Yeah. Gross. Yeah, real gross.
+
+[1:36] Gross. Uh anything anything good going on, Nastasha? Nope. Anything bad going on? Yeah, nice.
+
+[1:42] Well, nothing to report here. Okay. Uh calling a question is two seven one eight four nine seven two one two eight. That's seven one eight four nine seven two one two eight. Uh Johnny Kirk wrote in.
+
+[1:52] Uh, hey Dave. Uh he called, I guess, last week, uh, Jack, and we just missed him. Uh sorry, just missed the opportunity to call into cooking issues today. My question is about curing bellies for bacon. What is your take on vacuum packaging pork bellies in a dry cure situation?
+
+[2:06] Should I pull a full vacuum on a multi-vax style uh chamber machine? Do anaerobic conditions speed the osmosis and denaturation process? What are the pros and cons? And he gives you uh his cure mix here is uh two pounds of uh kosher salt, uh 16 ounces for that, so I guess two pounds kosher salt, one pound of uh brown sugar, and two ounces of sodium nitrite is his cure mix. Uh thanks for any advice.
+
+[2:35] Okay. So look, uh the the article that I, you know, you there's there's a couple of articles to look at. Okay. One, there's an interesting series of articles on um Spanish uh I you know I uh Iberico style and and other Spanish cured hams uh written by uh Barat, spanning uh the last name Barat, I don't know if it's a man or woman, uh spanning from roughly 2002 to fairly recently, like 2010, 2011, on uh a technique um where they directly thaw frozen uh ham. So a lot of these guys buy frozen product.
+
+[3:10] Uh I guess not for the really expensive stuff, but you know, that there's uh obviously an economic advantage to buying uh frozen product, for instance. Uh you can do it any time of uh year, independent of slaughter. You can um get equal uh weights of hams together, especially if you're uh like a lower quantity producer, you can store them uh until you have uh a batch of similar properties to cure together, etc. etc. Uh and so there's a lot of testing of thawing uh in a brine as opposed to thawing in a fridge and then brining.
+
+[3:39] Uh and you know the results as usual, you know, kind of mixed, but they also test vacuum pulsing. But the one I think you should look at, the article I think you should look at is called Development of a Modified Dry Curing Process for Beef by Hayes, and this is sometime in the in the early uh early 2000s. I think it's like 2004, 2005, something like that. I don't have the year written down. But uh what Hayes tested, Hayes et al.
+
+[4:03] tested uh was um taking uh beef, lean beef mussels to do dry cures on. This is another European study, uh, and uh I think it's UK. Uh and they tested normal dry curing, so so salt. They tested uh salt in a vacuum bag, they tested salt, uh, they tell tested salt in a vacuum tumble operation, and they tested, I shouldn't say vacuum bag, it's not vacuum bag, uh, vacuum tumble and tumble only. Now the interesting thing is is that all of the papers uh on this subject uh cite a bunch of literature saying that vacuum uh the application of vacuum or what they call pulsed vacuum increases the rate of cure penetration or increases the speed.
+
+[4:47] There's a couple things to look at. There's speed, there's also uh evenness, right, of cure throughout the thing. Uh so these, and also they they test things like tenderness, drip loss, all this stuff. Anyway, so uh bunch of studies on this. However, these these folks are are focused primarily on pulse vacuum.
+
+[5:06] And what that means is what they're they're the what they expect to be the uh reason that things happen is that when you apply a vacuum, the meat expands for a variety of reasons. The moisture inside uh starts to vaporize and pushes it apart, and also any air trapped on the inside of the meat will start expanding and push apart uh any veins uh or any any any vessels, I should say, or any air gaps. Now anyone that's used a vacuum machine knows that if you vacuum meat that's warm it it blows up just like a marshmallow does. I've seen you know fish rip themselves apart. I've seen stakes like inflate to you know 50% of their of their size right so then the theory being now that when you uh apply a vacuum like that and the meat expands to whatever degree it does or the air inside expands to whatever degree it does the the insides of the meat are somehow more available to the outside when the air comes back in and the pressure is reapplied that the uh whatever is outside right the exogenous stuff gets injected in now these guys uh who are uh in the beef one are testing a dry cure so not a not a brine and I don't know whether or not their results they they showed not that great a result for uh in terms of increase in uh amount of salt reaching the interior and you know by you know by by association also nitrites because they're also very diffusible uh things um trites not trades and the um so they showed not that uh big of a difference or not not a lot of benefit to doing what they call vacuum pulse alone however uh they're using a dry uh a dry thing and my feeling is is that maybe uh you know it maybe in other words maybe in a wet wet cure application it has more of a more of uh an advantage they showed that tumbling increases any sort of tumbling tumbling and vacuum tumbling increase substantially the uh the rates of penetration and you know the evenness of the cure and whatnot.
+
+[7:01] Now, my feeling is is that what they're saying, their proposed mechanism for why the vacuum works, right? And the reason, by the way, that the things I I said, things expand, A, because they're probably if the meat's not fully chilled, there's going to be uh moisture vaporization because when you apply a vacuum to something, it decreases the boiling temperature, you get a lot of vaporization. You know, you can boil water at room temperature in a vacuum. Anyone that has a vacuum machine knows this. Anyone that doesn't is always shocked and you're like, well, we need boil water.
+
+[7:25] Well, you know, you would you reduce the pressure. As you reduce the pressure, uh, it's easier for water molecules to flash off, to vaporize, and so they do, and so it boils at a lower temperature, and that can cause the expansion of the meat. Anyways, if the actual thing that's going on is that the real benefit of the penetration is only at the moment that the vacuum presses the stuff into it, then a vacuum pulse on a dry cured product is not going to have too much of an effect until a localized brine layer exists on the surface of the meat. Now, this is just speculation on my part. But my feeling is is that A, uh, like until that liquid kind of forms in the dry cure scenario, you're not going to get that much of a benefit from the uh vacuum.
+
+[8:05] Uh but you know, I myself actually have noticed like quite a benefit in in wet and semi-wet th things, right? But uh as the article points out, most of the benefits they're not done by scientific studies, they're done empirically, and that's kind of a way of saying that cooks and you know RD uh folks at at plants know how much vacuum to apply and the fact that it increases or uh you know the the rate of curing it from an empirical standpoint instead of from studies. They just know because they know. Uh so uh my feeling is maybe once it becomes a liquid uh that you know that it's gonna help a lot more. And another thing that's interesting that I hadn't uh thought about in the past is this.
+
+[8:41] Um if it's the pulse that's important, most of the procedures that I saw that these folks were using were single pulsed things. In other words, they're only pulsing the vacuum one time. They're applying they're they're sucking a vacuum, and just by the way, the protocols uh that they're sucking is a 90% vacuum. They're removing I and I don't know whether or not that's for um, they think that's a better vacuum to suck versus what we normally suck in in a chamber vacuum, which is much higher, you know, 98, 99, 99, 9. Uh in other words, so uh, and you know, by the way, just so you know, like old like an old timer set sale uh seller of uh vacuum tumblers I spoke to years ago, like seven, eight years ago, you know, I told him kind of the the vacuums that we were applying uh in in you know in kitchens, and he's like, no, no, no, no.
+
+[9:25] He's like, you need to apply much less vacuum. He he said, uh again, probably not backed up with science from the empirical thing, that if you suck uh too strong a vacuum, that in in in his words, the pull is close back up again. Uh at the time I was like, I don't I don't really understand what the hell, I really don't understand what the hell you're saying. Uh but um and to this day I still really understand what the hell he's saying. But it made sense to him.
+
+[9:49] And what he's really trying to say is, regardless of any studies, he finds that vacuum tumbling works best at um not intense vacuum levels, like in in on the order of 90% of the uh uh air being removed, right? So 10% residual. Uh and that is in fact what these studies uh all run at, a single pulse uh where they maintain 90% uh vacuum, so 10% air remaining, they they maintain that for a period of time and then release back to atmosphere. But if it's the pulsing that does it, why just do it once? When we're doing vacuum infusion of fruits, right?
+
+[10:25] We put it in the bag and then we we suck a vacuum on it, bam, we infuse it, then we suck it, we leave it in the bag because you don't want to volatilize a lot of aroma off, please people. Don't ruin your pri whatever. Anyway. So then you apply another vacuum to the bag, right? And as you do that, uh the bag expands.
+
+[10:39] Why? Because I told you that uh water vapor is going to be formed as the pressure uh reduces. Water vapor forms, the bag inflates again, then you can let the air back in. BAM! You can do it again and again and again.
+
+[10:51] So why pulse just once, Stars? Why just pulse just once? She's like, uh, not only do I not know, I really don't care. I really just don't give a crap. Anyway, but the um, so that's my feeling.
+
+[11:02] So maybe, maybe a multiple pulse uh situation, but go take a look at that article, and I'm I'm still gonna do a little more research to see whether I can figure out whether or not there is um uh a benefit or a lot of articles uh on the uh dry, on on drop pulsed vacuum for dry versus pulse vacuum for wet. Um but you you specifically care about dry, so it's interesting, you know, for for that standpoint. But I didn't get a chance, unfortunately, to go back and read the references. If you go to that paper that I mentioned, which is uh development of modified dry curing process for beef by haze, you can see uh that they um they have a bunch of references for people that do think that vacuuming helps quite a bit, and so you can uh check those out. I didn't have a uh I didn't have time.
+
+[11:45] But I'll read you a little chunk of this uh article just so you have a flavor for the kind of crap I read for you people. Uh the salt content, table one, between the core and outer regions differed with a P of less than 0.001 for all treatments, with the exception of the tumble only treatment, which had similar salt content uh content in the outer and core regions. This result indicated that for the tumble only treatment, there was a more even distribution of cure ingredients in the meat. Comparing core regions only, the salt content for vacuum tumble and tumble only treatments were found to be different to the control. Vacuum tumble and tumble only treatments had the highest salt content for the core region of 3.3 and 3.1%, compared to 2.1% for the control.
+
+[12:22] This result indicated the potential of vacuum tumbling and tumbling only treatments in accelerating the curing process, i.e., rate of diffusion of curing ingredients to the core of the muscle. So the uh oh, and then oh, here you go. Vacuum is known to increase core absorption. Here's a paper you can look up. Solomon et al.
+
+[12:36] from 1980, as well as extraction of salt-soluble proteins, Sharma, Kumar, Nana, and Kumar, two Kumars in one paper, 2002. This is interesting, you know, that in my in Dax's class, right? He's in third grade now. Uh I like Kumar and Kumar. That's my next band.
+
+[12:50] Kumar and Kumar, 2002. Uh so uh he has two, two Sophia uh Lee's in his class. And check this out. You ready for this? They go by, I'm not kidding here.
+
+[13:03] Sophia Lee one and Sophia Lee two. Who the hell wants to be Sophia Lee number two, like player two all the time. It's not like they switch up. It's not like they're like, this week I'm Sophia Lee one, and this time I'm Sophia Lee too. And here's what you want to know in more messed up, Stas?
+
+[13:19] You ready for this? They're not the only two Sophia's in the class. There's a Sophia, uh there's uh another Sophia in the class, so they can't even just go by Sophia one and Sophia two, because there's a Sophia three if you just use the first name. I forget what the what the third Sophia's last name is. But that's a boatload of Sophia's in one.
+
+[13:39] I mean, it's not like it's not like Dax is in a class of 300 kids, and there's like, you know, three Sophia's and two of them miraculously, by the way, unrelated, happen to be Sophia Lee. Uh, you know, at least unrelated far back as Adam. Uh and Eve. Eve, more importantly, I guess. Well, who knows, me?
+
+[13:54] Well, whatever. You know, my you get my point. Not not closely related. So, what the hell? Did you know Sophia was such a popular name right now?
+
+[14:01] No. No, no. Or whatever it is, nine years ago, there was such a popular. No. I don't think I've ever known a Sophia.
+
+[14:06] Have we? No? No. Yeah, maybe I have. I don't know.
+
+[14:08] Uh so anyway, where did that come from? Kumar and Kumar? Oh, God only knows what the hell's wrong with my brain. So uh anyway, so the vacuum tumbling, by the way, if you want to know the uh what's going on there, the theory is is that the beating the crap out of the meat uh well chain not only speeds the penetration of the uh cure to the core, but uh actually um like ridges around and creates more extractable protein, and that's part of what's going on there, so it also affects texture. So, anyway, uh mildly interesting for people that find that sort of thing interesting, I guess.
+
+[14:40] Uh at Clef's wrote in, uh, which I guess hopefully everyone that's listening because that's the kind of crap we talk about all the time. Yeah. Yeah. Stuff's like, uh, I know. Uh at Clef's wrote in, uh, at cooking issues, what is the useful range uh in microliters for micropipettes when doing cocktail work?
+
+[14:55] I know you've mentioned it before, but I can't find it. Okay, so there's a there's a bunch of different so micropipette, as I've said a billion times here, uh you know, in cocktail work, it's one of the few times when weighing by volume is what we do uh as opposed to by weight. I mean, kitchens almost always run on weight b weight basis, you know, if you're normal. Uh they run on weight basis measurements, but in um, you know, typically only water is the thing that translates easily back and forth between weight and volume. Um but in cocktail work, we almost exclusively work on uh on a volume basis for a number of reasons.
+
+[15:29] One, because the most important thing in a cocktail is where the uh where the wash line hits, where the actual drink hits in the side of the glass. You know, I did a I judged a contest once, and the the bartender who was doing the contest, and it was just somewhere else, not in the US, and and the bartender had radically different wash lines. So the two drinks they the guy poured were totally different in the glass. Like one was higher and one was lower. And I was like, holy crap, the wash lines aren't the same.
+
+[15:55] And the guy sitting next to me, who is also from you know, not from here, was like, so what? You believe that? I remember you telling me this a couple of times. Yeah, but I still can't believe it. What would you feel like if you got the short glass and and uh and you know your your whoever you were out with drinking with got the tall glass?
+
+[16:12] They're not good. Yeah, especially if it was champagne, am I right? If you got the short glass of champagne, and that happened to me the other day. I got the short glass of champagne. I was like, what the what?
+
+[16:20] Especially when you pay by the glass, you don't want the short. How much do you hate it when you're paying by the glass and you get the short glass? You're like, go, God. And then you feel obliged to order another one just so you catch up because you know you're splitting the check. You know what I'm saying?
+
+[16:33] Mm-hmm. Anyways, I don't know what the hell got me on that. So the wash lines are different. So that's why you like a lot of things we do, we do by volume. Um also it gets complicated with weights because the densities of our stuff is you know very different, and really what we care about is volume.
+
+[16:46] Also, it's uh, you know, inconvenient uh if you need to measure small volumes to do it by uh weight because you typically lose a lot. So what a micropipette does is it allows you to very accurately, very quickly and very repeatably measure out small volumes of liquids. So, where does this come up? One, it comes up in recipe development, especially when you're working with things that are uh small in quantity, so bitters, tinctures, salt solutions, uh sometimes acids, depending on on what you what you do. But whenever you're doing centrifugation and you're using wine finding agents to um to do clarif to be clarification aids, which is what you know we do.
+
+[17:26] We typically use uh PectinX Ultra SPL, which is almost completely dose insensitive. You can just splash it in by eye, and it doesn't matter as long as you don't add so much that it affects the flavor or the concentration or anything like this. It's it's really fairly dose insensitive. You it's hard to OD on SPL unless you go crazy. SPL is the enzyme that I use to break down the cell walls of fruits and vegetables and olives and whatever.
+
+[17:44] So uh so well, so sell everything. Breaks down pectin, breaks down hemicellulose, breaks down. I don't know, it has some cellulase activity as well, not a lot. Doesn't do lignin, you know, anyway, whatever. So the um so you know that one I don't necessarily need the micropipette for, although some people use it.
+
+[18:04] What I use it for uh every day is um uh Keselsaw and chitosan because wine finding agents that work on um electrostatic charge is their basis for function, right? They're they're they're causing the uh flocking, the agglomeration of uh chart uh opposite charged things, right? Those, if you overdose or underdose, it's useless. You've just ruined everything. So you really want to get an accurate repeatable dose, and you're dealing uh with quantities like two uh grams, two milliliters rather per liter of product.
+
+[18:32] And so uh you need something that can measure in that range. Now, there are different kinds of uh micropipettes and pipettes with uh various degrees of difficulty of use. The ones I use are uh autopipetters that are adjustable. So you can sometimes you get them and they're just a single range. And so you you put, boop, boop, boop, boop, you can only do one thing.
+
+[18:52] The adjustable ones, and the ones I use are by psychologic, uh psylogics, I believe is the name, uh, are pretty awesome, and you buy them in uh a range of things. So the one that I use, and they're specified in microliters, right? The one I use is uh 1,000 microliters, which is one milliliter, all the way up to 5,000 uh microliters, which is five milliliters. Now I found that I very rarely need less than that, less than one mil per pop, and it's extremely accurate there. However, it says explicitly in in the instructions to never turn the adjustment knob, and I think I paid under $100 for the one I have.
+
+[19:29] Or around there. Never turn the adjustment knob past what they want because it's going to ruin the calibration. And also it gets less accurate because the way it works is there's a piston that's very finely graduated. And you you push down until you feel the first stop. That pushes the piston down a measurable amount, and the amount that it's pushed down is dependent upon how you set it.
+
+[19:49] There's a twist where it goes click, click, click, click, click, and you set in exactly how much you want. And it's got one of those old school like speedometer click click click things, which is pretty awesome, or like a tally counter. You push down until you feel the first detente, you stick it into the liquid, you lit release on the knob, it sucks up what you want. You put it uh into the vessel you're gonna push into, you go push down to the detent position, and then boom, past it, and it has an over travel that pushes out the extra, so you don't have anything left, and that's how it gets very high accuracy. Anyways, they specifically say do not turn this sucker below one milliliter or over five uh milliliters.
+
+[20:22] Now I've never turned it over, I've never turned it over five. I have, well, I shouldn't say I did, a bartender once crank this sucker down to half a milliliter, and I was like, oh, you've ruined it, and they didn't. I tested it, I turned it back up to where it was supposed to be, up to like two mils, and it was accurate, pop, boop, boop, boop, boop, and now it goes down to boop, boop, boop, now it goes down to half a milliliter, so it works. But that's the size I recommend. And if you need a different one, if you do very highly accurate work, you can also get one uh that does like I think uh two hundred uh microliters to a thousand, and that'll get almost everything uh you need.
+
+[20:57] I very rarely use the second digit. I really care about milliliters and decimal milliliters, and so you know, the last the last digit, I pffff, you know, I'm I'm basically ignoring it. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[21:11] Okay, because it mine reads uh the a single digit for the thousands and then uh of microliters, then uh um a tens digit for tenths uh of well for hundreds rather, and then uh uh another digit for tens. It doesn't read the third digit, at least I don't think it does. I can't in my head it doesn't. And I don't really care if it does anyway. Right?
+
+[21:29] You wanna take a break? Sure. Take a break, come right back with cooking issues. And this one's a song by my friend Herbert Spilington. Today's program has been brought to you by S.
+
+[22:33] Wallace Edwards and Sons. Edward's Suriano hams are aged to perfection for no less than four hundred days, and hickory smoked to achieve a deep mahogany color. The Edwards name is well known for its world-class aged and cured meats. Their exclusive curing and aging recipe produces a unique flavor profile that enhances the quality characteristics of Berkshire pork. Optimum amounts of pure white fat marbling contribute to a flavor that's a delicate, perfect balance between sweet and salty.
+
+[23:02] For more information, visit www.surifarms.com. And oh, welcome back to the cooking issues. So we had a note in from uh, and this it makes sense. Let me see here. Uh at a squiddy.com, and the name of it was a cephalopod.
+
+[23:22] But you know, but cephalopods, for those of you that you know aren't hip to your nomenclature, cephalopods, which means foothead, uh, are uh uh the kind of most advanced molluscs in the world. So we got your you got your squid, you got your uh you know, squids are awesome, right? You got your your octopus, octopi, my personal favorites, by the way, the giant Pacific octopus, baller. Love the giant Pacific octopus. I've said many times, I will say it again, uh the the well, okay.
+
+[23:52] You got your you got your chambered nautilus, you got your cuttlefish, master of camouflage. They're all really good at camouflage. They're like endlessly fascinating uh and and for the most part delicious creatures. I've never had a nautilus. I don't really know what the hell it tastes like or anything.
+
+[24:06] Uh and they're kind of the most, you know, the nautilus in the most primitive kind because they still have their shell and they sit there like, you know, blah blah blah. You like nautiluses? Mm-hmm. They're kind of floating around in that weird shell that's upside down. But um, yeah, the trick is is that uh so cephalopods, extraordinarily smart, but in a way that uh is very hard for us to get uh a grip on because uh their sort of um brain power developed entirely differently from you know i it's entirely different from looking at the way our brain works, for instance, versus the way uh a dog's brain works, because we're you know infinitely closer related right you gotta remember that you know uh you know we split off from uh molluscs uh you know back before the spinal cord was invented you know what I'm saying and so uh you know we're talking about these guys evolved from the same kind of crew that are like clams and things like this right so it's uh you know i.e like almost all of them are big big dumb you know what i mean like I think very few of us have a problem thinking mechanistically about uh clams and muscles whereas you should have a problem thinking mechanistically about the kind of uh brain functioning of or the neural functioning whatever you want to call it of the uh of uh octo an octopus uh anyway and as I've said a zillion times before and we'll say again this time I'll actually get to it before I go off on a tangent uh the problem with them um is that they don't live very long at all.
+
+[25:39] Uh as a group uh cephalopods are short-lived creatures so even you know uh Arctuthis or have you pronounced it the giant squid that uh that they've recently captured on camera you know you're talking uh then you're talking something that is freaking big a freaking big squid is only living for you know couple couple of years like five six years you know what I mean like a uh giant Pacific octopus I think it gets like three to five years out uh you know out of its life and then because as soon as like the woman or whatever you know the the female as soon as she uh lays her eggs and they hatch she goes senile and dies and then uh and doesn't eat by the way the entire time that the that she's fanning her eggs there. And then the uh male, uh, as soon as it does its its its business with the with the ladies, just starts wandering around on the floor of the ocean until it gets eaten apart, goes goes uh it goes senile. Uh so it's uh they're interesting. So th in other words, like the only thing stopping them from either uh killing us and taking over the world, or else uh us uh you know, using them as uh as you know, butlers in little aquariums that can like wheel around uh with joysticks is the fact that they don't they don't live very long. So uh you know clearly uh at Squiddy, a cephalopod has an interest in this because of the Twitter name, but uh he says uh or she.
+
+[26:55] I don't know, because we don't know whether it's uh uh whether anyway. We do have a caller, I just want to let the caller know we'll get uh we should finish this. Alright, we'll get there, we'll get there right there. Okay, so uh he writes lobsters feel pain or something. There's a Washington Post article uh out that just came out uh about it, and it details a lot of the research that's being done uh that I've mentioned a lot of times on pain and no cception, what the difference between pain and no seception is.
+
+[27:17] In other words, how can you measure that an animal feels pain versus just response to noxious stimulus, uh noxious stimuli. And a lot of the work was done in uh hermit crabs and decapod crustaceans, which were completely unrelated to uh cephalopods, but uh the research is being extended into cephalopods, and it's an interesting thing to uh look at. So go take a look at that. Thanks to uh Squiddy for that. Uh caller, you're on the air.
+
+[27:37] Yeah, I've got a question. Um hi to everybody. I've I'm just a new listener, but um I've got a question. I found some old uh corny cigs uh that a farmer had that were like 20 years old. Right.
+
+[27:48] And some of them had one of them was like three quarters full of Mountain Dew. And and it it still held pressure and everything. And I mean I had to blow the pressure off. And so I tasted it and it tasted like Mountain Dew, and I was you know, uh wild hare try to make just a little bit of wine out of this out of this old Mountain Dew, right? So um but but my yeast die.
+
+[28:08] So I was wondering if you knew of any way to remove sodium benzoate from a solution. Yeah, so that's your problem, right there, is that there is yeah, no, I don't know of any way to unpoison the Mountain Dew. Uh I mean specifically that's what they were worried about. You know what I'm saying? Right.
+
+[28:27] Like so yeah, that's the specifically they they had a sugary product and they knew yeast was gonna grow in it, and so they put you know, some preservative probably at that time benzoid into it. So I don't know of any way to thwart that. I can tr I can try to look it up, but I don't know. Well I saw I I I did look it up and I saw that HCl will but then that'll just make it inedible again, right? I mean You mean hydrochloric acid?
+
+[28:53] Well uh wow, that's kinda well how much did they say to add? Well, uh they didn't. They didn't. That was kind of the problem. They said, you know, you can you can precipitate it out with uh with HCL, it should turn to what a salt, I guess, because it's already a salt.
+
+[29:06] But um So you would get so I mean I just don't know I don't know that process. I just didn't know if maybe you you would ever come across something like that. You so you're putting in H C L so presumably you're getting NACL and then uh and then whatever hydrogen benzoid is, right? I don't even know what that is. Are they saying it turns into a gas and floats off?
+
+[29:27] Are they saying it what are they I don't I have no I have I have no clue because uh it was just on a couple homebrew websites and they were like, you know, how do I get rid of sodium benzoate and and the guy just said H C L and you know it did nothing else. So I just yeah, I don't even know what benzoate it is. You know what I mean? I I don't know I don't know the structure of it. Um so you so it and on the website they said that it precipitates out, huh?
+
+[29:52] My guess is that it's it's that the Benzwit is something fairly large compared to normal things, you know what I'm saying? Right. But clearly it's soluble, you know. Right. Right.
+
+[30:04] Yeah I just you know it was just one of those question I I got the kegs last fall and I just I worked with it a little bit with these little one gallon batches and it just never nothing ever took off with it. So I I knew what it was it just was trying to see if I could get around that. Well look if it's if it's HCL right the if HCL it's there's two things that could be going on right it's an acid attack or it's some sort of like you say some sort of precipitation it's going on you're somehow causing you know something Benzwood to precipitate out although I don't really I don't really I don't know the chemistry of it right. If it's an acid attack and you're just and you're just you know destroying the sucker with acid then you can just dope back uh NAOH and you know it'll have a saltier version of and I've done that with uh I've done that with um stocks before now I had problems because I made soap you know what I mean uh with the fats that were in the so stocks but you know you you're not getting any problems with um with excess uh HCL on board you know if you have the ability to to do that but if it's a precipitation thing I don't know it's someone has to know or I can you know I have um I have a bunch of old soda references from uh the the 70s and um seventies and eighties from the old AVI tech series maybe they mentioned something about it and I can I can try to do something. It's an interesting problem um it's an interesting problem how to get rid of the the the Benzwit huh yeah and and uh you know, I'm not even I I don't even know that Mountain Dew wine would be that good.
+
+[31:33] It was just a kind of a curious type thing, you know. Well how's it taste? Well the Mountain Dew tastes fine. It just you know, it just never never started never started working. Has it changed at all?
+
+[31:43] Not r not really. I mean, I couldn't tell that it changed at all. And the guy put it in there in like nineteen ninety four is when he got those kegs. Dang. I know.
+
+[31:52] I it blew my mind that they were still even holding pressure that the uh that that the O rings hadn't gone. Yeah, well they're pretty good. I mean, like probably good. I would bet that I would bet that you should change those O rings. Uh sure.
+
+[32:04] No, no, no. But yeah, yeah, I just kept some of the stuff back, you know. I just I just I just siphoned it out and kept some of it out, you know. Those corny kegs are great, you know what I mean? Oh, they're awesome.
+
+[32:14] Yeah. I bought ten of them, and I mean they're they're they're just super. Do you rem wh how long ago did you buy 'em? Uh last fall, um, like October. Yeah, you know, like it's like been a couple of years now, but like, you know, five, eight, well, tell me how ten years ago when I was buying a lot of them, they were free.
+
+[32:30] You know what I mean? Yeah. Uh during the changeover from premix. And I think a lot depends on what part of the country you're in because uh, you know, the the pre mix post mix happen at different times depending on you know, obviously if your local water is really bad, you tended to stay with uh pre mix a lot of the time. But um or you know, not bad, but not you know, not tasting good, you know.
+
+[32:51] So uh they're they're much more expensive than they than they used to be. It's crazy. Well, I I had heard something, this is just a little aside that that India still uses the corny kegs a whole lot and that the demand over there was pulling was putting the price up. Oh, really? Well, well, first of all, you know, all the home brewers are buying 'em.
+
+[33:10] A lot of the cocktail folks who are doing uh kegging are buying 'em, and I guess, you know, they're being shipped over. But uh it got so bad that I think that they're making them again. So in other words, like the ones that you a lot of the ones that people are buying now aren't actually surplus, you know? They're right, they're new. Yeah.
+
+[33:23] Yeah, you can yeah, you can you can still buy the new ones. I mean, they're they're a whole lot higher, you know. I think I paid like twenty bucks a piece for these things, and you know, I I bought every one that I could. Oh, yeah. And it used to be, you know, the I I I uh I shop uh for a lot of my soda gear at uh Mark Power in Guntersville, Alabama, and uh they used to have them like almost for nothing, just for the price of and they would recondition them.
+
+[33:43] I don't even know how the heck that they were able to sell them, but they stopped selling them a number of years ago, but they're yeah, they're awesome. I've never played around a lot of chefs um nowadays are buying, I think the smaller ones they're really expensive, the three gallon guys because they're doing smaller batches and stuff, but yeah. Oh, I know what I wanted to ask. Was the color changed at all on the Mountain Dew? Well it changed a little bit, but but not really.
+
+[34:03] I mean, you know, not not as much as you would think. And there's actually two kegs that I didn't clean yet, and they're about half full, but I don't know what they're full of. One says one has a tag for uh Pepsi and it's pre-mixed, which I didn't understand. I didn't understand why they would have uh kegged a pre-mix, you know, and shipped it all over the place, you know, with just five gallons worth of with it worth of Pepsi. Well, I mean they probably oh, you mean why they shipped it to you that way instead of venting it?
+
+[34:28] Well no, no, no. Well uh well why it didn't come as as as concentrate and then mixed into the water, but your your comment earlier makes more sense that the water probably is not great and and they wanted to control the water. Yeah, I mean I think a lot of the I mean I I've never you know I never actually worked commercially with pre-mix, but I think that a lot of the houses would show up with the kegs and swap them out. I don't know how much mixing was done in-house, or you know what I'm saying? I think people would bring the five gallon charge stuff and then uh uh and then put it down.
+
+[34:58] I had one more question for you about the Mountain Dew, but it's since left my head. Anyway, well, I'll try and look up for that, and if I can find anything, I'll uh I'll uh I'll we'll talk about uh getting rid of Benzwit and making Mountain Dew wine. That's a that's a hilarious idea. I have to say, it's just just the wild, you know, just came to me, you know. But yeah, I appreciate you answering my question.
+
+[35:18] Uh uh I love the show. I'm just trying to work through the backlog. So thanks for calling in. Dr. You too.
+
+[35:24] That was awesome. Yeah, right? Mountain Dew wine. That's that's like well, you know, uh uh I know what I meant to say. Like uh the what's interesting is sugar sodas are fairly stable, but you guys ever doesn't ever drink diet soda, so she doesn't know.
+
+[35:37] But if you have diet soda, the aspartame can break down into salts and uh it loses its sweetness. So if you've ever had uh even canned soda that's stored at extremely high uh temperatures, like you know, in a in a laundry room uh for a long time, like it can taste weird and salty. So like if you made the wine, it would be very it would be weird because it would be all the sugar would be gone. Interesting idea. Uh speaking of soda, uh Tony Harrien from Brazil.
+
+[36:06] Real quick though, just to finish up the cephalopod stuff. Yeah. On the cephalopodpage.org, you can buy an a lot like a crazy amount of cephalopods as a hobbyist. You mean like uh you mean like different uh like octopus varieties and stuff? Yeah.
+
+[36:22] They're rather difficult to keep, I think. Uh it's crazy. Just this list is insane. Some of them say like deadly, not recommended, but apparently you can still buy it. Well, one of the deadliest uh creatures on a uh on a on a weight basis is the blue ringed octopus.
+
+[36:37] Uh yeah, you know, and they're really pretty. I mean, like look they're they're freaking amazing. Like, you know, they like they change colors. They mean they're awesome. That's the one here.
+
+[36:45] It says one of the most dangerous creatures on earth. Yeah, man. You know? It's like uh but they're very rare to get uh to get stuck by you know, we or you know, hit with one of those. They first of all, they flash, they flash at you when they're pissed.
+
+[36:58] You know what I mean? So that it's not like it's not like you're shaking hands with a blue ring octopus and it and you know all of a sudden it zaps you. But you know, I've I've read a bunch of books on cephalopod behavior because I said like I I like them, and all the researchers, all the octopus researchers, uh will say that they definitely have a like a sense when you're dealing with them that they're dealing with an intelligence, right? That's that the cephalopod, when it when it looks at you is actually looking at you and not just you know some sort of like dumb gaze. And they can perform amazing tasks, uh like you know, so solving uh solving puzzles, doing things, get reaching out of the tank, leave you know to get things, uh undoing jars to get inside of them, things like this.
+
+[37:41] But what's strange is the stuff that they can't do. This is what like when you when you research them, it's uh you it's amazing because they have such intense abilities in some in some ways. Like they're they're like a lot a lot of their neurons have to do with the coloring and texture of their skin. Uh their skin is much more highly tweaked than ours is much more. Uh, but uh they don't have certain things that we would think i uh are completely normal, like uh like the ability to know exactly where their tentacle is in space, because I guess they're they don't have a structure like we have, internal structure, and so they don't have the same proprioception uh kind of uh things that we do.
+
+[38:19] So things that we take for granted, uh they they they have very difficult abilities with things that we would never think that they could do, they can do with these. So it's uh they're yeah, they're fascinating. Love myself some cephalopod. All right. So Tony Harrien wrote in from Brazil.
+
+[38:31] Hello, cooking issues, and the HRN team. Um by the way, uh this fits in nicely with the Mountain Dew because it's a question about soda and premix specifically. Hope everyone is doing well. I've got a question for Dave concerning two very beloved subjects of ours soda and cocktails. I'm designing a cocktails on tap system and was wondering about the tap valves.
+
+[38:49] Dave has mentioned a couple of times about the Ibis Tower slash Becker, which is CM Becker, a corporation valve he uses for uh his soda system. That is true. Uh they can get it from Fox equipment here in the U.S. That is what I was aiming for to dispense the drinks, at least until I looked up the price tag for that tower. Almost $400 for the two faucet tower and $350 for the single on Fox 2X's like Red Fox.
+
+[39:12] Remember Red Fox? Remember Sanford and Sun? Mm-hmm. One of the great theme songs of all time. All right, all right.
+
+[39:18] Uh Fox I'm being told that I can't talk about how awesome the Sanford and Sun theme song is, even though that is an amazing theme song. Uh FoxEquipment 2X's dot com. Wow. Uh that wow is about the price. In fact, my biggest surprise was how much you guys love your soda even more than I do.
+
+[39:33] Or was it eBay Kung Fu? Your no duct tape New Year's resolution from a while back must be tremendously effective. Jokes aside, in my case, uh throwing 95% import tax and shipping to Brazil. You know that? Like people in Brazil when they order stuff from here have to pay like double.
+
+[39:46] Like the tax is like some intense, intense stuff. I don't know how they're allowed to get away with that. Because we don't tax the crap out of Brazilian stuff when it comes here, do we? I don't know. I don't know about it.
+
+[39:55] Uh I could almost buy two thousand two hundred liters of outstanding bottled sparkling water around here. Instead, I was recommended the Perlick 545 PC flow control faucet for much less to help control foaming. Uh and uh you link a homebrew thing here, right? I assume from pictures and schematics that the compensator mechanism is pretty different from the two. Do you believe that the pearlic will fit well for cocktails dispensed from a corny keg system?
+
+[40:19] Could the Ibis really do that much different for this application? And what alternatives could you recommend? Uh, my main concerns, as it they should be, are excessive foaming and loss of carbonation. I appreciate your insights. Keep up the good work, Tony Harrion.
+
+[40:29] Okay, here's the deal. The Ibis Tower with the Becker pre mix on it is expensive because they're taking a pre-mix valve, a nice one, and they're retrofitting it onto a beer tower, and they're charging you an exorbitant rate, and it looks really nice. So you're paying for a lot of chrome, you're paying for the fact that nobody uses these damn things anymore. By the way, the tower is nice because it's got a chilling line in it as well to chill the tower. Uh, because it's you know similar to like a cobra head, but it's called Ibis because it's thinner than the Cobraheads.
+
+[40:58] Anyways, uh it's expensive because of all the chrome and because nobody wants it, right? The problem with soda is uh everybody knows that the um that the soda guns, the ones that they use in uh post mix, suck. We all know they suck, right? The Wonder Bar and all their variants. We all know that they uh they totally rob you of carbonation, that that in general they're not clean enough and they make horrible tasting stuff.
+
+[41:24] Everybody knows this, right? Uh but whenever anyone tries to go back to a single valve dispensing, because that's the way to do it, they always go to the beer style valves, like the one that you recommend. And the problem is this beer is put through a much lower pressure than any of the stuff we're dealing with because it has a lower alcohol content than cocktails do, and it also has less carbonation than either soda does or that cocktails do. So you're never gonna get good results out of a beer uh system with uh well, you're never gonna get very highly carbonated results without foaming out of a beer system. The only choice you have is to get a soda, a pre-mixed soda thing, because they are designed to compensate much larger pressure differences than you can get through uh than or can be compensated through a beer style valve.
+
+[42:12] The good news for you is you don't have to buy the expensive stuff if you don't need the tower. You can go to CM Becker, that's Charles Mary Becker, is the corporation. And by the way, the people who pick up the phone there don't know a freaking thing about it because they happen to make these things. They don't care about it because it's not really good business anymore, but you can go on their website and look up pre-mix valves. And the standard wall mount valves that can be mounted on a piece of stainless steel, right?
+
+[42:38] With a with and they just have a hose attachment on the back, and you take it down to like a quarter or a three-eighths hose and put it through your cold plate, those things will work just as well as the fancy one that I have. They just don't look nice coming out of a deck mounted, sink deck mounted application. For my home application, I require that A, it looked nice because my wife's an architect. B, I'm not using duct tape anymore, remember. And uh C, I need I couldn't wall mount like I had before.
+
+[43:04] I needed to deck mount it. And so to get to have all of that, I needed to go with that expensive system. If you can wall mount, you can get them much less expensive on the order of I think they're like 30 bucks maybe for one of these pre-mix valves and just mount it into the wall, and you can get two, three, four of them uh and and and line them up and they work great. The other thing that you need to realize with cocktails, cocktails foam a lot more, a lot more than soda does. A lot more.
+
+[43:29] Uh, and it's because alcohol has a lower surface tension uh than uh water does, and also it it has uh a higher viscosity. So you're look dealing with a higher viscosity to hold bubbles and a lower surface tension, which it which increases the rate of bubble formation uh in the liquid, and what you have therefore is a nightmare. Also, you have typically for a given level of carbonation uh feeling in your mouth more CO2 in uh alcoholic products, and cocktails are more alcoholic than beer, and then a lot of wines, and so therefore you have excess foaming as well. Uh couple that with the fact that you can never get stuff that cold with a cold plate uh because you're only going down to ice temperatures, and I'm typically serving a good five, six degrees below that when I'm serving cocktails, problems, problems, problems. But to get around it, you want a very long flow so that as something comes out of your keg system, it has a long time to calm down before it comes through the compensator and out of the uh tap, right?
+
+[44:19] And you're not getting as much pressure because you get a pressure uh bigger pressure drop along a long line. But uh also you're gonna want to run through two channels of your cold plate, not one, two channels of your cold plate, so that it has a longer time, it can get colder and it's a lot colder, a good five degrees colder typically, if you run through two versus through one. Running through more than two doesn't really give you an advantage. Another thing you might want to take a look at if you're only running cocktail through it and not regular liquids, is using uh, and it's gonna ruin anything but stainless. Uh it'll ruin the aluminum that most cold plates is made out of eventually.
+
+[44:51] But you could look at using a salt solution, eutectic solution, usually potassium chloride, something like this, depending on the alcohol content you're running through, you might be able to get hyper cold stuff. If you calculate it wrong, you'll freeze your line solid, and you know, it it won't burst the uh at least it has never when I've missed made mistakes, burst my cold plate, but it does suck. And then you have to thaw out the cold plate to get it to work. So, anyways, uh uh because we're we have to get off, right? Well, anyway, so uh hopefully that uh gave you uh some information.
+
+[45:19] Uh next week, uh I was gonna get to uh Kenji had uh written uh on the Twitter about shrimp and baking soda. Maybe we'll have time to talk about that next week. One more question. Oh, yeah, what's that? Because me and Nastasia were talking about this before the show.
+
+[45:31] We were admiring some of the thinly sliced potato chips on the somebody's plate that was eating at Roberta's and we're wondering what your preferences are on potato chips. I like I like thicker. Like my my my thing is my favorite potato She's right. She said Dave's not gonna like those. I know look, I appreciate any well-made product.
+
+[45:49] So, like a thin potato chip that's nicely made, I enjoy. But just for comparison, my favorite potato chips that I've ever had, ever, are the like the actual original Maui ones that you they've never shipped off the island that like when people go to Hawaii and they bring them back in bags. Now, granted, I first had these like twenty years ago, so I don't know whether or not I would still think they're the best things on earth, but my memory of those thick, like you know, Maui kettle, you know, kettle cooked thick potato chips was that they were kind of God's gift to potato chip world, at least at that time of what things I've had. Uh I prefer a thick normal to a ridge, although I like the fact that rid that a poorly done ridgie is better than a poorly done thin chip. You agree with me on this one?
+
+[46:32] I'll agree with you there. Yeah. I think a thin chip is hard to do, so a really good thin chip is probably a thing of beauty. Oh, and by the way, next week I hope to have time to uh discuss Travis Hawkins from last week's actual question, which is pet peeves and faux pas in the kitchen. So tweet on in to at cooking issues or to the Heritage Radio Network for next week's show, your favorite kitchen faux pas, and we will talk to them, for instance, using someone's knife without permission, and we will talk about them on next week's cooking issues.
+
+[47:02] Thanks for listening to this program on heritage radio network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization.
+
+[47:27] To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by S. Wallace Edwards and Sons, a third generation Cure Masters producing the country's best dry cured and aged hams, bacon, and sausage. For more information, visit SurreyFarms.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more.
+
+[0:30] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you late! Late in Bushwick, Brooklyn, but still live on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday around noon. Around noon, right? Somewhere around there.
+
+[0:43] We got uh we got What if primetime TV was like at noonish? At noonish. Well, there's a reason that we're never nominated for beard awards. Maybe it's because maybe it's my tardiness. I don't know.
+
+[0:59] Nastash's usually here on time. Jack, you're usually here on time. Just me. It's just me. Just me, you know.
+
+[1:06] J Train sucks. Well, J Train sucks, and what you know, look, not that there's an excuse, but I'm trying to get as much kind of work on thinking about the questions and whatnot beforehand as I can get in uh, you know, beforehand. So I'm pushing it always to the last second. So then if there's any problem with the train at all, I'm root dupe super late like I am today. Uh but we're gonna be joined on the phone, correct?
+
+[1:29] I am with uh yeah, Chris Young of Chef Steps. He was gonna be here in person, but due to a scheduling Cortal U, remember, uh listeners of the show will know that my son Booker take took the word CORTLU, which is a station here on our uh fine subway system, and uh uh repurposed the word to mean cluster, beep beep. And it it suits that purpose quite well, I think, Stas, right? Chris, how are you? I'm doing well.
+
+[1:53] How are you doing this morning, Dave? Doing all right, and I'm kinda uh lucky. You know, another reason I'm late, I spent uh myself uh time armoring this morning and I'm glad you're not in the studio because I heard today is national smack a cook in the groin with a spoon day. That's uh that's an official holiday or just one you made up? Well, I did just make it up, but I imagine that it could be like an official day.
+
+[2:13] It's a back of the spoon, people, not the front. Don't be animals about it. Uh oh, it's yeah, it's an old honored tradition of cooks walking around with a cooking spoon, not one that you're cooking with, and you smack another cook in the with the back of the spoon in the groin. Not hard, people. I find it actually incredibly unpleasant, and yet it happens all the time.
+
+[2:33] You know? Chris, back me up on this. Uh uh I'm I'm actually completely befuddled. What kitchens have you been hanging on? Are you you liars?
+
+[2:43] Liars! You could get fired for that. Uh well, I told you, I don't practice it. I don't practice that. And and you know, it's not it no, it's not really, it's I mean, why?
+
+[2:54] Because it's assault? Yeah, and sexual harassment. Uh oh, it's usually it's yeah, it's not, I don't know. Yeah. As I said, this is why I spent extra time armoring, because I find it unpleasant.
+
+[3:09] I don't like getting capped in the groin. I I re I really want to see a video of a day in the life of uh of Dave Arnold. I think that would be very popular. Oh, I don't know. There is one online.
+
+[3:21] I can't remember who. Oh, yeah. I mean, I think, you know, if most of that you'll most anyone saw what Stas and I did uh most days, they'd be like, oh. My life isn't so bad. Alright.
+
+[3:36] Excuse me. Call your questions for Chris Young in two 718497, 2128. That's 718497 2128. But Chris, before we get too serious, actually, you want to do some serious technical crap first? Because uh I had a bunch of people um you know tweet in their kitchen peeves this morning, and I might have some more in uh during the break.
+
+[3:53] I don't know. We'll go over those. Maybe we should hit some questions first, some stuff that I think you might be especially uh good at. Um we had a question in uh from uh here we go. Will Freeman, and if you if you haven't researched this, just tell me.
+
+[4:09] Uh at Rebel Cat underscore one. Uh I want to make a creamer for hot and cold beverages based on oil emulsified with egg and no dairy. How to prevent it breaking? And I I don't know whether they mean by breaking like uh keeping it liquid and stopping it from breaking there, or they mean feathering, you know, what the creamers feather when they go out into uh into uh into coffees and whatnot. Um I will say before I turn you loose on this, uh Chris, I mean you might not have anything to say about it, I don't know, is that it seems to me from like just very preliminary uh research that the secret actually lies into something that I know you Chris work on quite a bit, which is um which is uh salts like citrates and phosphates, uh, which uh because typically these creamers are doped with casein.
+
+[4:55] Uh to to add the and so presumably because they have the casein in them, they need uh the emulsifying salts or whatever you want to call them, melting salts, whatever, citrates, polyphosphates, whatever, uh to keep them from feathering out when they go into sewage. But if it's gonna be literally no dairy, in other words, no casein, then we need to figure out some other kind of creamy looking bulking agent to put into it to give it that uh you know that that milkiness, along with maybe some additional stabilizers other than the less thin and the and the uh and the other uh phospholipid crabs that are in the the egg yolk any thoughts yeah so you know obviously casein would be the go to emulsi I mean what you what you really need here is a good emulsifier system uh you know cream and milk is a bunch of of of butter fat droplets coated in in casein proteins which do a pretty nice job of uh of keeping that emulsion suspended so I'm guessing when he's talking about breaking we're really talking about preventing phase separation while it's liquid remember though he's not he doesn't want any dairy in it at all so we need another substitute for milk potato so if we so you know if you if you can't use caseing um you know my instinct would be to go to a combination you're gonna need some emulsifiers and you're gonna need a homogenizer to to do this and and what I would be looking for are I'd probably go to like sucrocesters. Um I think those will do a pretty in my experience those will do a pretty good job of coating most plant oils and so the way I would do it is I I disperse um some sucrocesters uh which I think the El Boole makes a textural line those are probably readily avail available sucro yeah. Yeah and so that's probably a blend of of different ones. Which is a dumbass name for sucroesters by the way I'm I'm I'm gonna make no comment about uh about El Boole's naming scheme uh on a on a radio show but um I love him I love that I'm just saying that's a dumb name especially in English it sounds like too many other things.
+
+[6:55] Look my my big complaint with any of those products is they don't tell you what exactly is in them. But you know so it's not that they're bad products people. We're not saying anything about the products or the people. I just don't like the name. So I I would start off by taking your your your your oil, whatever you're gonna use, and I would emulsify I would disperse some something like a sucrocester in that.
+
+[7:14] And then I would, under really high shear, or if you have a homogenizer, that would be great. I'd emulsify that into uh your your liquid uh to to form an emulsion. And I wouldn't I don't think lecithin or glyce or some of the other ones would work terribly well. But when I've done uh uh I've done some constructed creams, if we go back to the to the work we did at Modernist Cuisine, uh stuff that didn't get published, there was a lot of good work with sucroesters for constructed cream. So I think that'd be a pretty productive direction to go.
+
+[7:43] If you can use casing, I you your life will be much easier because getting sodium caseinate is much easier than sort of tracking down sucroesters. Right. And so just to kind of uh just to kind of parse out what's going on here for people that you know don't play this kind of game regularly, if you go and just research patent literature on uh creamers, you'll see that in fact they do have mono and diglycerides in them as one of the main um things that's added. How along with less than however they have also casein in their formulation and mono and diglycerides mooy mooy mooy cheaper than sucroester. And so, you know, sucrose sucrocesters are not by any stretch the cheapest of ingredients to use, and that's why in general in food industry they're only used in situations where they're really necessary, not necessarily in in in every situation where they might kick some serious uh butt.
+
+[8:39] Correct me if I'm wrong on that, Chris. Yeah, no, sucroesters are are high end and and and fairly expensive, but they work really well. So um I I can probably be a little more specific here since I'm actually pulling up some of I I I see I was sensible, I put my laptop in front of me. Um and I would be saying you're looking for something like a sucroester with uh what's called an HLB value of around ten, and you're probably looking at about five percent by weight. Um but if you don't have that, something like uh a blend of monoglycerides and less often mm maybe like point two and point two percent uh of both of those blended into your oil, that'll do a pretty good job of stabilizing the mixture.
+
+[9:19] Right. But remember everyone, well we have a caller we're gonna get to when we get back, maybe a short word, because we got a lot to get to on what uh HLB is the balance uh and also on the fact that you know not all less than is made the same. But for right now, caller, you're on the air. Hi, Dave and Gang and Chris. Um I didn't know Chris would be uh on the show today, and it's a really good surprise.
+
+[9:38] Um I just had a few questions I hope uh to to bust out. Uh my first question is about ultrasonic bath. I just recently picked up a Branson 5510, and it is a dirty, dirty used ultrasonic bath. And I know that Chris does some work with cavitation french fries and stuff, and I wanted to kind of get up to that and I was uh wondering what I would need to uh maybe clean it, uh maybe neutralize some of the nasties. I I love that the ultrasonic bath is dirty.
+
+[10:03] That's the most hilarious thing ever. Yeah. Yeah, Dusty, I picked it up from a shop uh from a specialist who makes dry diaphragm pumps, and he just is a really small niche in California here just doing that. So uh yeah, it's it's super used and dirty. So I was wondering if um what I would see.
+
+[10:23] Uh ultrasonic bath uh used for cleaning things and for other operations that you guys are gonna talk about in a minute. Um the smaller ones that you can buy inexpensively are jewelry cleaners, typically they're sold at. Uh, you know, to home folks. Branson is a manufacturer uh of ones that are in industry and in life sciences, and they also build much larger, more powerful ultrasounds for welding. Tell them how many liters this one's holds so we have an idea of what size.
+
+[10:48] Uh this one's like two and a half gallons, so it's actually kind of big, bigger than the ones that I've seen before, but um still kind of small, I guess. Alright, go. Okay, so you know, so this so this came from somebody just doing like um probably metal cleaning or some sort of parts. You're not gonna have to worry about like getting the Geiger counter out and making sure this this wasn't used for some sort of nefarious radioactive purpose. Um okay.
+
+[11:11] Yeah, that that that that's good news. Um usually what I would do for cleaning this is probably start out uh if you can get some some lye, uh essentially a drain cleaner, I would disperse some of that in water and start off with an alkaline wash, which will help uh which will help uh get some of the what I'm guessing are sort of metal filings and fines off it, and then I would drain that out, switch over to uh an acid, something like myriadic acid, which you can get at Home Depot would be a good choice. And then after that, just wash really well with the detergent. And by the way, lye, if there is some sort of biological contaminant in there, lye will eat it. Yep.
+
+[11:52] Awesome. And so you can you can you can get both of those at at Home Depot, and so you just want to start off with a with a good alkaline wash, then then drain it out, neutralize it with some uh or just just wash it with some water, then go to an acid wash, and after that just detergent. Be careful when you make lie solutions. Um you want to do this one, Dave? No, no, you you go go ahead.
+
+[12:14] Go ahead. Really important order of addition, really, really important. Do not dump your water onto a giant pile of lye. Yeah. It l it gets very hot.
+
+[12:23] Uh also lye like label the hell out of it. I've gotten really badly damaged by unlabeled lye. And um, you know, I like having ly right. If you can get some food grade and you know, do some of the amazing work that you can do with lye in the kitchen as well. Yeah.
+
+[12:41] Uh one thing I'll add, just in case, because I like to kill everything, I finish everything off with a good bleach rinse, let it sit and and then uh and then blast out. You're gonna have a little more is this one of the ones with uh the metal outside or the uh molded plastic outside? It's like the molded, it looks like polypropylene uh cooler kind of material or something. Yeah, that can be a painting. Good bleach wash on that.
+
+[13:03] Yeah. Oh, okay. Also, like if there's weird and crusty stuff, at least mine can be completely disassembled, including removing the seal that seals between the plastic and the stainless steel uh thing that's uh holding it together. You just want to be careful to not dump a bunch of at least the one I have has the uh transducers bonded to the inside of a stainless steel tank on the inside that's then sealed to the underside of the plastic lip, and all of that can be gotten into if there's anything really nasty, but I'd avoid doing that unless you really like doing that sort of thing. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
+
+[13:36] Um awesome. Well, thank you guys so much for that question. Um hopefully I can blow through just another one real quickly. Uh another thing I'll be cleaning in my ultrasonic bath will be uh glassware. And um for the uh a rotovap I was recently able to piece together in the last couple months.
+
+[13:50] It's great for that, by the way. Yeah, yeah. And I was gonna ask, so what detergent, um do you do you buy those detergents that they use uh with the uh ultrasonic bath or do you do you just do like hot water and cavitate it for like you know, twenty, thirty minutes? If you can get some phosphate solutions into the water with a little b uh a little bit of detergent, uh you will get very clean glassware, you know. You know, duh one of the one of the unfortunate things or fortunate depending on how environmentally conscious you are, is we removed phosphates from from dishwasher detergent uh a couple of years back, and uh uh unfortunately phosphates are really good at at uh sort of removing hard water stains and letting the glassware drain and dry very, very clear.
+
+[14:31] So literally some tripolyphosphate, maybe like half a percent dissolved in water is gonna do wonders for cleaning your glassware. Alcanox still has it, doesn't it? Uh probably yeah, there's almost certainly commercial. Uh commercial ones are going to have it. Uh actually espresso cleaner uh essentially will have a good mixture of of citric acid and phosphates.
+
+[14:50] So those would be good choices. But if you just go get like a uh a a consumer dishwashing detergent, it's gone. Awesome. Um thank you. Uh also I recently read head to tail um the article of head to tail dis distillation by Dave, and um I was really intrigued of how he was able to set up his manifold system um and how he had a coil condenser.
+
+[15:09] My question is real quick, is it do is it necessary for me um to get a coil condenser for that setup with the peristaltic pump? What do you have what do you have now? Do you have a cold finger con I mean do you have a cold finger condenser? Yeah, I went with the cold spinger because it was a little cheaper and a little easier with dry ice. Um and I've noticed that the distillant does kind of freeze a little bit um initially, and I think that's what the problem was, right?
+
+[15:29] Is that it it wouldn't drip drip down at like uh at a good rate. I started off life with a uh with a coil condenser and then moved to a cold finger condenser, not for reasons of economy, but for reasons uh that I I couldn't distill alcohol in uh in a commercial environment uh without endangering you know my partner's liquor license, which is kind of not right. And I I wanted a way to do it legally and to to effectively distill some of the flavors that we want uh in water and not have them get totally you know just ripped out with the vacuum, even before you can taste it the first time, you need to have an extremely high temperature delta between the distillation temperature and the condensing temperature. And so I moved to the cold finger so that I could do that. Dry ice is really dry ice is so powerful that one of the problems that you're gonna note when you're using dry ice in a cold finger condenser is really thick.
+
+[16:25] Yeah, and uh you you're gonna like the the actual uh vacuum, the vacuum takeoff area tends to get uh clogged with ice crystals more than when you use, let's say, liquid nitrogen. So I found that actually distillation using dry ice as the cooling source is vastly cheaper uh and more efficient than using liquid nitrogen because liquid nitrogen is relatively uh has relatively low amount of chilling power compared to dry ice on a pound per pound basis. But um I find that it's vastly easier uh to use because once your uh vacuum um once your vacuum column freezes, once you no longer can suck a vacuum because of ice crystal occlusion in the lines, you're done. Uh and so uh I found that happened a lot. So you need to be really careful when you're starting a distillation with dry ice that before you add dry ice to your uh condenser, that you suck a partial vacuum on the cold finger.
+
+[17:22] And you do that so that you don't have a lot of moisture from the atmosphere condensing up near the the top of the condenser, which is where the the vacuum takeoff port is, which gets clogged very easily. So you want to suck a partial vacuum, not enough to do any major distillation, right? Then you want to add uh your dry ice and your alcohol, let it cool down. Then you want to start your your actual hardcore primary distillation. And you need to be sure that you don't boil over because if you boil over and you have to break your system to clean it before you continue your distillation, then all hell breaks loose, especially with the with the dry ice.
+
+[17:57] Takes forever to warm the condenser back up, and it's a huge pain in the butt. Now you can get around that by using a bump flask. Now none of this is none of this has answered your actual or fritted. I actually think fritted is better than a bump flask, but very few people use the fritted uh inserts between the uh in the um in the what's it called in the vapor duct. But can you can you use a bump strap on your uh the beaker flask that you have?
+
+[18:17] Because I actually picked up that same beaker flask, but the whole thing seems super long rotating and it it's wobbling a little bit. Yeah, the beaker flask has issues, you have to be extremely careful with the beaker beaker flask. Uh they're prone to failure. So what we're talking about here, folks, is there's a uh the fla a beaker flask allows you to open and close a beaker so that you can uh literally put your fist inside of where the product is, and it's fantastic if you're gonna dry something out and makes it a lot easier to clean. The issues with the beaker flask are uh that um they are relatively slow to ramp up and down temperature-wise, because the glass is thicker, and the seal where the beaker itself is tends to get wonky with time.
+
+[18:54] So you want to make sure you want to run a really good vacuum test dry before you do anything to make sure that you can get the sucker down to the vacuum levels you need. Um but j just to answer your and yes, you can use a bump flask with that, it'll all hold itself together, but it becomes more precarious if some knucklehead walks up and goes, what's this and hits it with their hand, you know what I mean? Uh which it happens, believe me. Uh but what you um your at to your first question, you can do some fractionation um when you have a system like that, but a large amount of stuff is frozen onto the side of your condenser, and so you can't really do accurate fractionation with uh that kind of a setup. What you can do, it's a huge pain in the ass, but you can use a eutectic uh salt mixture and you can you can hit a temperature somewhere closer to like minus twenty C, something there, and there you can do some really hardcore good fractionation, but it's just a lot more difficult to maintain uh temperatures, uh, especially because the actual volume of that uh condenser is quite low.
+
+[19:59] So you'd be better off uh maintaining something. You can buy a and you have to run a condenser colder for a given level of separation because the surface area is not as great as a coil. All right. Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah. But you can buy slash jerry rig uh something that allows you to just pump cold stuff into your cold finger and siphon it out.
+
+[20:19] So you can sit there and just with a thermometer or a circulator, keep a uh uh an alcohol bath uh or a glycol bath at like minus twenty and then use a pump siphon system to constantly refresh the cold finger. And you can do that for like thirty bucks. Especially if you already have a circulator. Wow, that's good news. Uh that is great.
+
+[20:40] That's great. Uh then my sorry, my next question is the the the con condensation, is that on the outside of the condenser? Because remember it's important for it to be two thirds up the way the condenser, and I can't really see it on the cold finger. Um are you looking for the condensation on the outside of the condenser if I do? Yeah, well, you look for both.
+
+[20:55] It depends on what you're doing. In a in a in a in a in a cold finger, uh it most of the time when you're doing distillation, it's much easier to see a uh water vapor line than an alcohol vapor line, but you're looking for uh condensation on the glass itself on the outside, and in a coil condenser, you're looking for the drip lines where the drips are starting on the coil coming down. And you can kind of see where the melt zones are in a uh in a in a coal finger condenser to find out if you're melting very high up, it means you're losing temperature and you're and you're just in your your condensation line is too high. You'll just get a feel for it uh over time. Another really good way, this is why dry ice is problematic because it tends to freeze everything up and make it things difficult to see.
+
+[21:38] But uh if you just put the like the two back the back of your fingers against or the back of your hand against the um uh against the outside glass and feel up and down, you can get a feel for where the line is by temp. That makes sense. Yeah. If if the condenser itself gets too hot, I've noticed it it seems like it's redistilling near the vapor duct, and a little puddle is forming. I don't think I'm bumping.
+
+[22:00] I might I might be bumping a little bit, but um, I think it is that possible for if like the outside of the condenser feels too warm, then you'll get um um that problem. Well, you should melt off the tip. The tip of the cold finger on the inside should be liquid at all times when you're distilling. Oh, okay. Um and to do that, would you have to use like 200 truth alcohol by chance?
+
+[22:21] No, water. And it the fact of the matter is is that you're you're it takes so much energy, so much energy to recondense steam that almost no there's no coolant that is powerful enough at full distillation rates to keep solid ice at the tip of a coal finger that I've used. Oh, I see. Yeah, okay. Yeah.
+
+[22:42] Well, thanks so much. Sorry for hogging up the time. Uh I really love Chef's Depths and you're doing some great work, Chris. Um Yeah, it's awesome. Thank you guys so much.
+
+[22:49] Thanks. Fantastic, thank you. Uh all right, so back really quickly, uh before we take a break, which we should do. Uh let's just give 'em a quick thing on uh hydrophobic, uh lipophobic uh or philical how are balance and uh the difference in less less lessithins go. Uh the the simple idea is a hydrophobic lipophilic balance is just a measurement of how much more a particular emulsifier prefers to be in what we'll call the oil phase versus the water phase or the aqueous phase.
+
+[23:18] And depending on what you're trying to emulsify, you often wanted emulsifier to be more in oil or more in water. And there are two forms of lecithin. You're usually deoiled and oiled lecithin, and they have very, very different uh hydrophobic lipophilic balances. Um trying to remember the numbers off my head, you you might you seem to you seem to retain numbers much better than I do. Uh no, because I tend not to I mean like I tend not to use them so much, so I never really grain them into my into my head, but any supplier of repute will tell you the number.
+
+[23:50] Yeah, and and what uh within it, if you start really calling around, you'll find out that they can be custom tailored a lot. In fact, I believe there's a whole thread uh on HLB values and lecithin on the Chef Steps Forum, um, which is a much better and and more reliable source of information than than my brain off the top of my head. The main thing to know is that not all lecithins are created equal and assuming that you can substitute them from one recipe to another uh isn't necessarily gonna work if you don't really have a good idea of what the HLB value was of the particular lecithin being used. And that goes for any of these kind of ingredients that are I don't know, there there's not really a good word for these ingredients. I'm gonna call them highly tweaked ingredients.
+
+[24:32] Sure, technical ingredients. Yeah, technical, that's a good one. Technical ingredients. Any one of these technical ingredients tends to be highly tweaked out, and one, just because they share the same name as another doesn't mean they perform in the same way as another. And the the analogy I always used to use is that yeah pretty much like flowers will all kind of work the same when you're thickening a sauce because you're using really blunt blunt instrument type of functionality when you're doing that.
+
+[24:58] But most of the work that we're doing with these technical ingredients, much more like scalpel work. And for that you really need to know exactly what is going on. Sure and and I suppose I should actually be a little more useful as I think about this. So I sort of skipped over this but you know the HLB range runs from zero to eighteen. And if you're doing a water dispersed into oil emulsion you're generally going to be looking for an emuls uh emulsifier with an HLB value of something like four to maybe five or six and if you're trying to do an oil and water emulsion you really want something that's more like eight to eighteen.
+
+[25:30] And so lecithins uh your your your oiled lecithins tend to have uh an HLB value of I think it's like nine is is a pretty common one and that makes it a pretty good for oil and water emulsion but not very good for a water and oil emulsion. If you were to use a de-oiled lecithin you'd probably find one with an HLB of five. Yeah I mean that that's what's interesting about lecithins and why they really don't uh work one to the other to substitute back and forth because they straddle the line and they could be on either side of that line which is uh and you know it's like it's like uh for those of you that care about this stuff it's like low acyl and high acyl gel and they're both gel-in but they couldn't have radic they couldn't have more different textures I mean you could not have two more different textures in high acyl and low acyl gel in anyway let's take let's take a quick commercial break. We're right back with Chris Young from Chef Stops. Today's program has been brought to you by S.
+
+[26:51] Wallace Edwards and Sons. Edward Suriano hams are aged to perfection for no less than 400 days and hickory smoked to achieve a deep mahogany color. The Edwards name is well known for its world-class aged and cured meats. Their exclusive curing and aging recipe produces a unique flavor profile that enhances the quality characteristics of Berkshire pork. Optimum amounts of pure white fat marbling contribute to a flavor that's a delicate, perfect balance between sweet and salty.
+
+[27:21] For more information, visit www.surrifarms.com. Oh yeah, back with cooking issues and Chris Young. Chris, we got another caller with a question. Caller, you're on the air. Hey guys, this is uh Judah from Maryland.
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+[27:33] How are you? Doing all right. Hi, Judah. Uh so I actually have a very quick and probably simple question uh about pressure cooker mechanics. Uh and and I didn't realize Chris was gonna be on the show today, but it's about one of the recipes from uh Myers Cuisine at home.
+
+[27:47] The uh so I will say that uh I I was not involved in the recipe development for Mono's cuisine at home. I'd left to start Chef Steps by then, but go on. Oh okay. All right. Well, uh, I'm sure you probably help anyways.
+
+[27:59] Um so a big crowd favorite is the uh the buffalo wings, the uh chicken wings with the buffalo oil. Or the buffalo sauce, I'm sorry. And um in that recipe, so there's two variations. Either you could do it in a pressure cooker, you know, in tanning jars, or they say you could just simmer it uh all the ingredients on a stove um in oil for about half an hour. So the differential is they they say uh full pressure uh at ten minutes for ten minutes uh in the in the jars, or on the stove top, you know, for a half hour.
+
+[28:32] So I it just got me wondering like you're cooking the oil on the stove. Um I'm sure that the the temperature is probably close to around two fifty at low, you know, low heat on the stove. Um so what's going on in inside the pressure cooker that's actually shortening would be shortening. Oh Chris, I know you're itching to answer this one. I can feel you over the phone.
+
+[28:52] Oh, I I'm I'm I'm gonna try not to crawl out of my skin. Um so there's there's a few things. The first thing to realize is it really doesn't matter very much what your oil temperature is on the stove. Uh presuming you're at reasonable atmospheric pressure around sea level, your food's filled with a bunch of water, those chicken wings, and so it can't be hotter than two hundred and twelve degrees Fahrenheit, a hundred degrees Celsius, uh at normal atmospheric pressure, because until all the water is gone, you're stuck at the boiling point. The hotter the oil, the faster the water will be evaporated from the food, but that's all that changes is the core temperature doesn't get any hotter.
+
+[29:28] Pressure cookers allow you to raise the boiling point of the water, which means you can actually get the core temperature of the food higher because as you raise the pressure, boiling point goes up, just like as you decrease pressure, boiling point goes down. And so the the basic rule of thumb I tend to carry around is you're trying to convert collagen into tender gelatin. And let me let me just uh correct you real quick. So this is for the for the um the spiced oil that goes into the the buffalo sauce, not for the actual wings. Oh, not for the actual problem, not for the actual thing.
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+[29:58] Okay, so what in any if there's any liquid in the products at all, the only way to alter the temperature on the inside of that product to accelerate any processes is by applying pressure. Right. So it's a lot of onion and a lot of garlic. So um there's there's a reasonable amount of water in those. Wait, do they change the amount of onion and garlic based on which technique you use?
+
+[30:18] No, no, no. They just change the time. Oh really? Yeah. Yeah.
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+[30:26] So I've tried it both ways. I mean, it's it's a similar product uh both times, but you would you suggest like bumping up the onion when you're doing the pressure cooker? I mean, like the problem with bulking onion is you bulk the problem with bulking onion in a pressure cooked recipe, which I do on a regular basis, is that you're adding a lot of extra water to it because you're not getting rid of the water in a pressure cooking situation, but pressure cooking radically uh lessens the characteristic flavors of onion and leaves more of the of a kind of standard sweet root vegetable flavor to them. Is that your experience as well, Chris? Yeah, that tends to be that's a pretty good description of it.
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+[31:04] Yeah. Which I like for some things. Like I I make a pizza sauce, it's half garlic, half oil, and I do it by pressure cooking. Um, you know, um and I, you know, but I found that for instance, I you know, I I I like combinations of pressure cooked onions to for bulk and regular cooked onions when I actually want onion flavors like, for instance, onion soup. Um, uh there's there's going to be another difference you ha you have going on here.
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+[31:34] So uh I I don't think there's a terribly simple explanation. I think uh I so I uh now that I understand the question, you're sort of it'd be nice if there was a s a simple answer. I think one of the factors that's going on is inside a pressure cooker you're in a semi sealed environment. That means some of your volatiles are not being vented as rapidly as they would be on a stove top, and you're going to tend to retain more of those in the oil uh than you than you would in a in a stovetop. So that would be certainly one of the reasons I think you get to a similar product faster.
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+[32:05] Uh Dave, you have any y you're the you're the distillation expert. I felt I was like I was listening to Walter White a few minutes ago. Uh yeah. Well I should end so well as Walter White, just kidding. I just saw the last one.
+
+[32:16] Whatever. Anyway, don't want to I don't want to ruin that for anyone. But um the uh uh yeah, and I mean look, for years I've also worried about pressure cookers that vent. Presumably there's no real reason other than uh volatiles could could be why uh the venting's an issue, which is why I thought, you know, your original idea, Chris, of putting things in jars was kind of a genius idea. Mm-hmm.
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+[32:37] Aside from the just the preservation standpoint. Yeah, so and and so you know, there's no question you're retaining more volatiles when you open the pressure cooker, I imagine you get a really a really potent sulfurous aroma. Well, no, you that stuff is really destroyed in pressure cooking. And I I emailed uh Block, the guy who wrote the garlic and alliums book, and he you know, about this and about like what's kind of going on and there is some research on it, but he referred me to someone who could actually do the the the the a chemical analysis of it. But they wanted to do it for money and I didn't really have the money.
+
+[33:10] They were gonna do it on a per sample basis. Because in in normal cooking, right, you inactivate the uh the enzymatic pathway to convert um, you know, the non pungent precursors to the pungent uh, you know volatile stuff. Yeah, sure. Uh and I forget which it is, Alicinda, Alan, whatever it is. You know what I mean?
+
+[33:30] Uh uh and they're all they're different for the different alliums. And but if you do a normal cook on something and then blend in uncooked allium, those enzymes will still act on the precursors that are still there and create pungency. Whereas in pressure cooked products, that's not the case. In pressure cooked product, addition of fresh enzyme doesn't convert all of the stuff to the pungent. So there's something, and sulfur chemistry is incredibly complicated anyway.
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+[33:56] And so there's something going on there that I think is only uh empirically understood, let's say. That means like cooks know it, but they're but I don't know that anyone knows exactly what's getting busted into what in a pressure cooker with um with onions and garlic and leeks. I just know that it's it's complicated and that the that the rate and nature of the change is not necessarily linear with time. So I know if I want to completely obliterate those things, I push them for 20 minutes. So maybe 10 minutes is the upper limit where you can retain some of the original character of the of the of the alliums.
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+[34:29] I don't know, you know. It's actually an interesting question. The way that recipe would have been developed literally was just very empirical. Try things and and and see what sort of gives a close approximation. Okay.
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+[34:44] Okay, sorry we don't have a better answer. No, uh it's mainly just about the cooking times, but uh yeah, it was uh interesting to hear about onions as well. Cool. All right, thanks, guys. Thanks a lot.
+
+[34:54] Chris, I got another one for you. J.E. Con writes in on the Twitter I want to give my hot sauce a real fermented sauce, by the way, not just a pepper puree, uh, some heft. Should I use modified starch or xanthan and why? Or something else.
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+[35:09] Uh I added that. Or something else, Dave added. Um it it depends on how much heft. If it's just a little bit more body, it's hard to beat Xanthan for convenience. Um I'm generally not a big fan of a lot of modified starches.
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+[35:22] They tend to really sort of dull and round out the flare flavor. My personal preference would be go to a gel an based fluid gel because you can really change the the the body to and dial it into whatever you want without making it sort of gloopy or slimy or or cloying, um, which tends to be a problem with xanthan or and starch. You you agree with that, Dave? You've you've done a lot of this. Yeah, yeah.
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+[35:43] The only issue you gotta remember with uh gel an, you'll probably have to make the like a stiff gel-an fluid gel like water based. I've had difficulty getting gel an to set in extremely high uh uh like ionic situations like kimchi, for instance. I tried a bunch of different kimchies and I couldn't get it to set right. So have you been able to do it with Agar? Which usually is a little more tolerant?
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+[36:07] Yeah, I don't know. Maybe I was I was developing it for uh a gel an recipe, which is why I kept on trying it with gel-an. Uh so I never tried it with with Agar. Probably Agar would be a lot more tolerant. I don't know about the long term stability of an agar fluid gel versus gel-an, though.
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+[36:22] I would I would guess that gel an would be more stable in the long run. Gel-d be better, and I I suspect you could mean you're right, especially when you have lots of salts around things can get complicated, but usually not something that you can't solve with a little bit of sodium hexametaphosphate. Yeah. Yeah. All right.
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+[36:39] That would be my voice, my choice. But if if you just need a little bit more body uh Xanthan, it's easy. All right. I'm gonna here's what we're gonna have to do because we're gonna run out of time. I'm gonna rip through this next question, and then we're gonna should we do the pet peeves first?
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+[36:52] Pet peeves first? Sure. I like pet peeves. Alright, pet peace. I asked uh last week, someone asked us last week about pet peeves, right?
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+[36:58] And oh, before that, I want to give a shout out. Aaron Morgan wrote in about last week what's going on to get we had a qua a caller in last week who had a bunch of Mountain Dew that was like 20 years old, wanted to make it into Mountain Dew wine, needed to get rid of the benzoate uh and was told to add HCL to it to get rid of it, but I didn't know what the reaction was. And Aaron Morgan wrote in on the Twitter HCL plus sodium benzoate equals NACL plus benzoic acid, which is a solid at room temperature, it can be filtered out on filter paper. Thanks, Aaron, for that. Uh and then uh we had a question what are some good kitchen peeves?
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+[37:27] And so these are the ones we'll wrote in uh that were written in uh this morning and before, and we'll just go over them Chris, see what we think here. Uh Joshua Galliano, uh the cooking kid, writes in uh towels on shoulders of cooks, not courtesy wiping bottles after use, especially of honey or molasses. What do you think? Uh uh misuse of kitchen side towels just completely drives me nuts. They're they're filthy.
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+[37:49] They should be banned from the kitchen. Yeah, well, well, so date David uh Shopik wrote in, why all the hate for the towels? And then Joshua wrote back, if the towel's dirty, a guest can see it instantly. If they're plating food, filth from the towel, filth from the towel can get in the food. Accurate.
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+[38:04] Uh Brandon uh um Baltzley wrote in, I think my biggest one is when cooks try to show other cooks who has a bigger peep in very passive aggressive ways. What do you think about that? Um, those don't tend to be the kinds of kitchens I do well in. Yeah, yeah. And he also uh added, uh hire someone with clean fingernails and no resume before someone with dirty ones that has done a season at El Bully, the bully.
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+[38:26] Uh yeah, what do you think? Agree? Uh always also added, uh, does not appreciate people drinking out of delis. I think he means what I call quartz. Uh calling people you work with closely, chef, and wearing aprons to the washroom.
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+[38:39] Never wear freaking a aprons to the washroom, but I have to say that I uh even at home sometimes I drink out of quartz. But I don't know. What what are your thoughts on the hating of drinking out of quartz? Uh I I'm I I'll use whatever vessel suits the purpose. So deli cups are fine by me.
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+[38:53] I mean, what what I always heard was the reason uh to drink out of quart containers is that you could tell the DOH when they showed up that you that that was a cooking ingredient and that they weren't drinking anything. Oh, that's interesting. No, I've never I've never heard that one before. I mean, that's what I was always told is that you know, if you have a cup on the counter, you're obviously drinking in the kitchen. If you have something that's there that's in something that is a cooking storage vessel, then perhaps you are not drinking it.
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+[39:20] Uh that I'll buy that. That's plausible. Yeah. Deborah Reed wrote in seeing a cook in whites on public transmit tra uh public transit. Oh my goodness, don't ever do that.
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+[39:30] I hate seeing people outside of the kitchen wearing their cooking stuff. It's the same as seeing somebody on the streets in scrubs from a hospital. Like what are you doing? The whole point I was just gonna say this. I drive past the University of Washington hospital every day on my way to Chef Steps, and chef step chef whites are bad enough, but to see people like going to work in their scrubs outside is just like mind-boggling.
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+[39:53] No, yeah. These are professional uniforms of cleanliness. To have them outside where it's known filthy, I don't even care whether it's real filth or not. This is a game of perception, people. Perception.
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+[40:06] Which is why you also shouldn't be smoking outside uh in your in your uniform or any of that stuff. In my in my opinion. My opinion. Uh John Rivet writes in, not covering a pot of sauce that is clearly spattering all over the stove and then leaving the mess. That sucks.
+
+[40:21] Right? Yeah, no, no, no. You're gonna become a hated person if you do that. Oh, yeah, to completely hate it. Well, so some of these are like pro kitchen and some are home kitchen.
+
+[40:30] I think that applies to any anything, right? Yeah, I just think I just think clean up as you go and don't leave a mess for somebody else. That's just that's just good etiquette. Yeah. You know, you weren't raised by a pack of wolves, people.
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+[40:39] Well, maybe. We don't know. Uh Brian Garrick writes in one following recipes blindly without any thought, unless your chef tells you to. Uh and read it through, people, uh, read it through people and think before cooking. Two, pre-ground pepper.
+
+[40:51] Uh, you know what? I had to use pre-ground pepper in a demo once because I needed pepper and it's the only thing they had, and someone saw that it was pre-ground pepper and called me freaking out on it. I'm still embarrassed to this day because I detest pre-ground pepper. Well, so i i when I was at the Fat Duck, we had to right before service because Heston wanted wanted ground pepper of different sizes. It all had to be ground fresh.
+
+[41:13] Uh, this was on my station, and I had to fill ramkins with fine sifted, medium, coarse, all had to be ground fresh, and they had to be changed every hour uh, you know, through throughout service. What a complete nightmare, but it makes a massive difference. Old pepper just tastes old. Yeah, old pepper. That's my next band.
+
+[41:29] Uh Matt Wood write in tongs or any other dirty utensil hanging off apron strings, a la Wyatt ERP. And I think that fits in uh a lot with the with the side towels, right? What is it, a utility belt? Yeah. Oh, I like that idea though.
+
+[41:41] Oh my god. Have you ever seen anyone in the real life wearing that butcher belt with the knife holders in it? I have actually in Portland, but then it's Portland, right? Oh, I'm I'm not gonna touch that one. Uh Seattle versus Portland.
+
+[41:56] Hashtag whatever you call that crap. Uh Omeed uh Tavale writes in anyone who steps into the kitchen wearing cologne or perfume and going for a smoke break in apron whites. We already hit that that, but yeah, don't like how are you supposed to smell food if you yourself smell like flowers and like whatever else, musk. Just think about some sort. It's basically just chemical weapon assault by your colleagues.
+
+[42:18] Yeah, I hate it. And i I don't even I like salmon and bacon, but I don't really like handling it that much and cooking with I don't like the act of cooking with it because I know that it's gonna be hard to get that off my hands, and I'm gonna think that everything else has that scent in it for a couple of hours, no matter how much I scrub. Yeah, well, worry about I I I don't know, I don't get perfume in the kitchen. Uh Stas hates that super big, right, Stas? Yes.
+
+[42:38] Yes. Uh Scott Malloy writes in leaving labels on deli containers. Uh that sucks. Cooks afraid to wash their own dishes, and people uh who go down because they're afraid to ask for help. Going down, by the way, meaning uh you're in the weeds, you're cooking a lot, and your station crashes because you're afraid to ask for help because you were just too damn proud or too damn afraid.
+
+[42:57] What do you think about that? Why would you do that to everyone? You know, the i i you know, this is a this has always been a big mantra. You know, cooking at a professional level is all about teamwork. So, you know, either somebody on the team or or they have no business being in that kitchen.
+
+[43:11] Right. Because if you're proud and you let yourself crash because you're too proud to ask for help, it shafts every single person. It only takes one person to mess up the whole meal, which is one of the weird things about cooking. Uh Henry Prontniki writes in, uh, how about those that make the rules and are supposed to enforce them being the first to break them? Ooh.
+
+[43:30] Nobody likes that. Uh Ian Bowden wrote in, whistling drives me nuts. It's just it's as distracting as hell, and there's an old French superstition about it as well. A long time ago, my mentor would smack me in the back of the head for whistling or anything for that matter. What do you think about the whistling?
+
+[43:44] Uh so my co founder, Grant Curly is a world class whistler, so uh we we've become quite taken with that actually. So it's more like a soundtrack. Yeah, it's just it's uh sort of just cadence for the day. And we need to get Ian and Grant in a room and have this like ha we need to have this out. We need it this needs to be had out.
+
+[44:01] Uh as long as we broadcast that I'm I'm on board. Sure. Sarah uh Sarah Balzac writes in when someone uh tastes your food and tells you it should be something uh other than what you made it that would change it entirely. Like, why don't you make your hard candy more chewy? Or you should make the medium well steak more well done.
+
+[44:15] You hate that stuff? I hate that. I hate that stuff. It's like, yeah, that's bad. I mean, like that's obviously bad.
+
+[44:20] Uh Shuna Leiden wrote in disorganized chefs, cavalier cooks, smoking outside in whites, aprons in the toilet. Ooh, I hate that. Uh CDP without prep lists and not labeling to good list, pro kitchen list, right? Yeah. Jeremiah Bullfrog uh wrote in wet salt.
+
+[44:36] I also hate the wet salt, which is why I use saline solution at the bar. And ideas and food chimed in also dirty salt in response. What are your thoughts on the uh on the salt getting wet and dirty there? Um I'm I'm actually sort of wondering what they mean by dirty salt, like you know, filthy salt from just handling that. Yeah, I think like Schmutz.
+
+[44:53] You know how like you know you were you were you were sprinkling on meat and then flipping the meat and that little particle of meat on your finger got in the salt and it's sitting there in the kosher salt. Look, this is easy. Dirty is dirty. Yeah, yeah. And bad.
+
+[45:05] It's bad. Uh John uh John Derragon wrote in not having cold food on cold plates, hot food on hot plates, unlabeled food containers in the fridge, and not turning pot handles sideways so that you bump into them when you walk past, and people who store knives in drawers with other things. Hate? Duh. Yeah, all right, okay.
+
+[45:22] Uh Landon McDowell writes in cold ketchup. Yeah, why put your you're just wasting fridge space with your cold ketchup? Ketchup don't go bad. Oh, that's interesting. Yeah.
+
+[45:30] I hadn't thought of that. I don't like cold maple syrup either, although I understand the merits of keeping it in the fridge to stop mold growth. Although mine never grows mold because I use it that fast. Yeah, but that's why we have microwaves, so we can warm it up. Right.
+
+[45:41] Uh but yeah, exactly. Uh Elliot Papanau wrote in, I do not like the crust between the handle and blade of a spatula. I don't like dirty faucet knots, which is why I use foot pedals. And I don't like containers that are put away that are not fully dry. I'll add to that, I don't like it when people use containers without smelling them first, or any vessel you put food in, smell it first.
+
+[45:59] I hate that when people don't do that. You know how much good food and and liquor is ruined by not sniffing the freaking container before you use it? Uh Jack the horse, brushing crumbs on the floor and not replacing that damn thing you emptied. What do you think? Obviously.
+
+[46:14] You hate that. Yeah, yeah, that's it just that's just being an ass. Yeah. B. Ross right in.
+
+[46:18] Any stainless steel on cutting boards, it freaks me out thanks to at Chef Keller and my uh friends uh at my stage at Per se. What's the thing with uh stainless on cutting boards? You know about that one? No, I've never heard that one. That that's a thing.
+
+[46:29] All right, B. Ross, send me more information. I must know what this is all about. Uh and kitchen l not having kitchen labels. Label everything.
+
+[46:36] Use just enough tape and not too much pound tape abuse. Uh Pat Sheeran wrote in uh pots on cutting boards. Hates that. Cooks who are late, uh barely organ uh barely on time, un an unorganized dish area, uh, and uh uh uh non condensed cooler. This is uh I I didn't get the uh paragraphination in here, unfortunately.
+
+[46:56] Non condensed cooler, uh also no notes in their notebooks. Hates that. Pat Sheeran, good man out in Chicago. Well uh so I'm I I got one there. He had the pots on the cutting board.
+
+[47:05] You know, you know what I see a lot, especially home cooks, uh grocery bags on the cutting board. That's filthy. Yeah, you put them in the you put them in your car, you drive them around, then you come home and put them right on the cutting board. Yeah. Well, and the pots also like leave vis visible filth.
+
+[47:21] Visible filth. And you know, and they burn them. People, people, yeah, you know what they used to do at the SCI? They used to stick because the students didn't use the flat tops that often. They would stick plastic bottles of ingredients, sometimes oil, on flat tops.
+
+[47:29] On flat tops. What is that? An IQ test? Flat tops. Hey, while I was working there, it happened more than three times.
+
+[47:42] Caught fire more than twice. Wow. Yeah. Yeah. And uh Brandon uh Balsley wrote in one more time.
+
+[47:52] Uh I'm guilty of at least at least three of these things that have been mentioned at all times. Uh we're gonna have to uh head out. Thanks so much uh uh for uh Chris uh at cooking uh cooking issues at Chef Steps. Uh we love you. Come back uh whenever uh to be on the show.
+
+[48:07] Can I give a can I give a quick plug, Dave? Uh yeah, but before you do, I want people to know that Howard, I need every Howard is traveling, uh, who right wrote it uh wrote in is traveling to Europe uh in about a month, Western Europe, and he wants uh to take in the sight sound and the food. He's having a hard time deciding where he's going, so he wants everyone, uh, you know, you know, listeners here to tell him uh where to go for the best culinary pilgrimages, pilgrimages, epigurean experiences, must-try dishes or equipment shops in Western Europe. So that's broad, but let's get that uh information in. Uh Jeff Stenjem, I'm gonna answer your question on plastic wrap on Twitter.
+
+[48:44] Uh, I got an answer for you, and if not, I'll answer it again next week when we come back. Uh so go do your plug. Okay, uh, check out chefsteps.com. We've got a new course that we uh we created. It's basically what every first-year line cook should know, and every home enthusiast should know about cooking tender cuts of meat and seafood, steak to salmon, how to cook meats like a pro.
+
+[49:03] Sweet. Go check it out. Chris Young, thank you. Thank you, Dave. All right, this has been Cooking Issues.
+
+[49:13] Cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org.
+
+[49:39] Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Heritage Foods USA, the nation's largest distributor of heritage breed pigs and turkeys. For more information, visit Heritage Foods USA.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network dot org for thousands more. Cooking issues, showing your questions to Cooking Issues!
+
+[1:00] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you live from Robert's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn on the Heritage Radio Network, every Tuesday from roughly twelve to roughly twelve forty-five. Joined as usual with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. How are you doing, Styles? Good.
+
+[1:16] And Jack in the uh engineering booth, Jack. And special guest today, my son Booker. Booker, how are you doing? I'm doing great. How do you do?
+
+[1:26] Uh I'm uh doing all right. Yeah, Booker's here at the show today. I took him out of school because we had to go look at another school. It's one of those parenting things. Did you enjoy the new school you were looking at?
+
+[1:35] Yes. Yeah. Yeah. You got anything else to say to the uh radio folk out there? They were very nice to me.
+
+[1:42] They were? Are you looking forward to the pizza that we're gonna have after the uh radio show? Yes. Oh, good. All right.
+
+[1:47] Alright, nice. It's extremely polite book, Booker. This is like a whole new booker. You you know, maybe, maybe, you know, in a couple of years you can have your own radio show. You seem so nice on the on the radio.
+
+[1:56] Very cool. I hope so. Yeah. Good mic technique too. Nice.
+
+[2:00] Right? Right? Very pro. Better than us. Uh all right.
+
+[2:04] So uh I just have to make note that today uh is the first time in a very long time that Dave beat Nastasia to the studio. Yeah, that's true. Well, I would have been here even earlier, but apparently there's so many hipsters in this neighborhood now that it's actually difficult to park. What what? Hipsters don't drive, though.
+
+[2:21] Uh yeah, they do. They drive their parents' cars with the with the dancing bears on the back when they when they drive in from Westchester to hang out with their hipster buddies that got that cool apartment in Bushwick. Haven't you met those people? Yes. Yes, you have.
+
+[2:35] Yes, I have. And I may or may not drive my grandma's car. What you what kind of sweet ride does your grandma have? It's a 95 Nissan Central. Wow.
+
+[2:45] It's a beater. No, I like a beater. Uh okay. So uh let me get to some of the questions. I'm having some uh technical difficulties, so uh Booker's gonna be uh the only reason he's here uh is because uh I promised that he could use my computer throughout the entirety of the uh episode.
+
+[3:03] So the part of Nastasha will be played today by my son Booker, who will be on the computer the entire time. But uh I'm not able to get um off my headphones. Uh he's he's putting on his the computer headphones. But Booker, I'm actually gonna have you use the iPad instead, alright? To plug in, plug into that.
+
+[3:18] I'm gonna have to use my computer. Alright. Yeah, see? All right. Alright, nice.
+
+[3:22] So so malleable. I love it. Uh all right. Daddy. Uh uh, yes, Booker.
+
+[3:29] I'm doing a radio show here. Um We're leaving out one about one? Uh yeah, we're about one. Yeah. Okay.
+
+[3:36] Sennheiser. That's at the headphones saying them. Uh Booker is enjoying the uh the products here. Okay, now listen. Last week, when I uh when I ran out of time with Chris Young, that's fun, right?
+
+[3:47] Yeah. That was kind of fun. Uh it would have been even more fun if he were live in the studio, but he had to hang out in uh Providence, a place that Nastasha was actually supposed to be at the same time, and for some reason, even though I didn't know how I was preventing her from doing it, was lording it over my head. Did they uh have a good event up there or no? Yeah, we had a great time.
+
+[4:02] Yeah? Uh you know, I've never been to uh that's uh Johnson Wales up there, right? Mm-hmm. I've never been. Apparently they have uh like an intensely good cooking library.
+
+[4:10] Did you know that? Yeah, they do. Yeah. Wow. I'm surprised that nice.
+
+[4:15] I'm surprised you care. Surprised, and my heart's a little gladder. Yeah. Okay, but I promise that I'll go over some of the cooking peeves that I missed, kit kitchen peeves that I missed getting to on last week's show. Hopefully I don't repeat any, but uh a bunch came in while I was on the uh while we were on the air, and for some reason we're not technically sophisticated enough to be able to get stuff live.
+
+[4:35] Like you know what I mean? We're no we're no lair or low paid or anything like that. We can't yeah. All right. Uh Josh Schwanson wrote it.
+
+[4:43] You've got a couple. Using lids with holes in them to quote cover a product. Yeah, that sucks, right? Here's the thing though, there's different kinds of the like the like the holes issue. Like there's like giant holes, that's clearly problematic.
+
+[4:58] Then there's like the moron that punches a hole in the in the lid. But then, right, there's the I'm reusing the deli container that they punctured with like a uh a pen point so that the sucker doesn't blow up from the steam. But those suck when you're trying to transport stuff. How many times have we had core containers go crap on us? And that's why even Nastasha, who generally doesn't care about such things, wraps the hell out of core containers with plastic wrap afterwards if we're gonna transport them for a long distance, and hence has saved many a uh uh a bag.
+
+[5:26] Even though we're morons for carrying core containers in our bags, but we do it anyway because why? Because well, actually we haven't done it this year. This is our non duct tape year. Yeah. Remember?
+
+[5:36] Yeah. Uh you know what else I hate though? Here's another pet peeve crappy core containers. You ever like like you're like, meh, how much worse can the bag core container be? And the guy buys a whole bunch of bag core containers and they show up and the lids crack instantly, and you're like, oh, and then quart container after quart container cracks and spills the stuff all over everything.
+
+[5:58] It's just like the worst. Remember, we bought a bad batch once, but it wasn't like we were being cheap. They just sent us the bad freaking batch. And a good core container is is a joy and a pleasure. And you can like reuse it again and again, uh, you know, as long as you clean the onions out of it, and you know, they're awesome.
+
+[6:16] You know, I don't you know, and and and I had said this before on the show, I don't think they're any less green than anything else, because literally I'll use core containers for years, right? Unless they crack on first use, and then they're the worst things in the world. Uh Josh also wrote in, oh, by the way, it turns out your laptop doesn't work like an iPad. I'm sitting here trying to scroll my scroll my laptop screen. Uh using the last of an item and then not adding it to a list of stuff to order.
+
+[6:40] Now, this is one that sucks at home and uh at work. How many times does happen someone uses the last of a staple? You assume you have it, no one's like, oh uh, yeah, I used the last of the rice. Oh. How do you it's not how do you use the last rice and not and another way that pi pisses me off major in like professional scenario is hey, look, we have a menu item, right?
+
+[7:04] We have a menu item. We make it all the damn time, right? We're always making the menu item, right? You know that it requires this this product. I'm I'll make it up, malic acid, that you know is two days a week.
+
+[7:15] Malic acid also lasts forever, is not expensive, and doesn't take up that much space. Why would you ever run out? Why would you ever run out? Like, you're down to one pound. Order two.
+
+[7:29] You're not gonna take the stuff off, and we're always gonna be using the malic acid. Why would you ever run out? Should you ever run out, Stas? We ran out a lot. Uh yeah, well, uh, but not without me getting uh quite uh uh angry about it, right?
+
+[7:42] Anyway, okay. Uh third, Josh writes in Josh does not enjoy the bag inside of a secondary bag. But the question is why here? Because it's lazy. Sometimes I will put a bag in a bag when the bag sucks, but I want to maintain the label on the other bag temporarily.
+
+[7:57] But that's more of a home kitchen thing. That's not a uh a pr a pro thing. And a pro thing, you definitely don't want bags inside of bags. You definitely don't want this one where you have a bag inside of a bag, and then you pull out the crappy bag, and then that crappy bag is leaking, and then as you pull the crappy bag out of the outer bag, it sprays all over the place because you can't get the stuff out of the bag on the inside without spilling stuff. Sucks, right?
+
+[8:18] Mm-hmm. Sucks. Uh Jimmy Crib, uh, whose uh Twitter handle is at Val Kilmerson. That's good. Are you a Val Kilmer Kilmer fan?
+
+[8:28] Don't really have an opinion. In one way or the other, you didn't like uh Top Secret? I didn't see it. All right. Uh when the front of house asks for a towel and takes two.
+
+[8:37] Oh, but what so what do you think, Stas? Do you think that the front of house, back of house hatred is like mellowing over time or about the same? You think it's gonna change ever or no? I don't know. You're like, that I don't care about.
+
+[8:47] Okay, uh, R. Osler and Kay Zoker from at Gypsy Kitchen wrote in uh cell phones in the kitchen. Yeah, that kind of blows. Uh changing the oven temp when other things are st are still baking. Who does that?
+
+[8:58] Anyone who does that should get like I don't know, some sort of non-lethal but like uh instant and uh uh memorable punishment. Like, why would you do that? Why would you ever do that? Why would you anyway? Uh and improper wrapping.
+
+[9:14] Now here's the thing. Improper wrapping, so like at the French Culinary Institute, they're big advocates of like the major heavy duty hotel rap over, under sideways, blah blah blah, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah, rap, rap, rap, rap, rap, rap, rap, rap, right? And this is very good in situations where uh you know that eighteen people are gonna touch a product, it's going into a a shared refrigerator, it's gonna get jostled and moved, and what you need it to be is completely bulletproof, right? But then you have the people who hotel wrap in any circumstance, and so dump 18 layers of plastic, for instance, on something when you're about to do a demo, and what you really want to do is be able to get into the product without looking like a fool and like and like unwrapping it like it's a freaking Christmas present. So I think proper wrapping is a matter of context, but improper wrapping always irritating.
+
+[10:03] Right? Mm-hmm. Yeah. Uh Don Lee wrote in improper shoes, showing up in slippers, sandals, or heels, and if you do that, I'm gonna send you home. Yeah, it's true, especially when we work with liquid nitrogen or you know what?
+
+[10:17] It's like uh I had a guy once who you know, his one of his things, and like he had to stop himself from doing constantly, is literally po pouring boiling hot sauces on people when they wore open toed shoes. He's like, he's like, Oh, I'm sorry, I thought you had real shoes on. I'm sorry that your foot is scalded and burnt off. But you really have no business like wearing open-toed anything in uh in in a kitchen. True.
+
+[10:41] You know? True. Or things that are slippery. You know what I'm saying? Uh because you know, if you bust your head, like that sucks for everyone, not just for you.
+
+[10:51] Like you made a bad decision and wore bad shoes. But now you've slipped and broken your head. You've probably ruined some decent food. Probably. You definitely are shutting down that that kitchen for a while while they scrape you off the ground and like figure out what's going on.
+
+[11:05] There might be a lawsuit. Everybody feels bad. You know, bad shoes, bad idea. Uh, which is not to mean I'm not feeling for the person that gets hurt. I'm just saying they shouldn't do that.
+
+[11:16] Make everyone's life easier. Uh Jay Schroeder uh wrote in, that guy who says hot behind every time he's moving around, and uh, I guess presumably, even though the stuff's not hot, keep crying, wolf, buddy. That's what uh Jay says. And like that's why Stas and I are always joking, lukewarm behind, like, you know, tepid behind, behind, a little bit like, you know, like I don't know, like bathwater temp behind, you know what I mean? Because most of the time people screaming behind.
+
+[11:44] I'm all for letting people know behind, but there is a certain level of screamage that I mean look, uh on the other hand, it's a total safety thing. So like at Somme, if you don't scream behind, you know, then you know, you get your behind handed to you. But you know, it doesn't need to be that yeah, you don't need to overplay the hot. It's like the same thing, it's like how many of you guys actually enjoy it when the uh when the Way Tron tells you that uh the plate is extremely hot, especially if you're a cook, you're like, that plate's not freaking hot. It's not freaking hot.
+
+[12:13] It's like w warm, maybe. When was the last time you had a a plate that really actually hurt your hand, Stuzz? I don't know. Like I serve Korean stone bowls, toll sots. They come out to the table at six hundred and fifteen degrees Fahrenheit.
+
+[12:26] Plate hot. Your plate hot. But I think that's why a lot of people don't use those things because otherwise, if it wasn't for the fact that customers would burn their hands off all the time, there would be Korean stone bowls, the tollsots in every Apple Bee's in America. Why? Because all you need to do is pour a little bit of oil in the bottom, add rice, any other crap, any other crap.
+
+[12:47] Some sauce, an egg on top, delicious. Boop. You know what I mean? It's the easiest. Like you could do an Applebee's, it's just Tulsot Applebee's.
+
+[12:56] Except for the fact that you'd be burning too many people and then you get in trouble. Alright. A couple more of the peeves. Uh bh buh bub bup bub. Sam Breslaw, the bacon life, wrote in oversized knives on the line and punching holes through the crystal wrap rather than removing all of it.
+
+[13:13] In other words, like punching a hole through the top and then trying to take the stuff out because you didn't want to undo the hotel wrap that someone did when they were over-eager and wrapped the ever-loving crap out of something. It's true. Although what's an oversized knife on the line? That's the question. Like I literally, like anything over 10?
+
+[13:29] Do you consider a 10 too much? I love a 10-inch chest knife. I just like the way they feel, right? And I could deal with uh an eight, but I don't want anything smaller than an eight when I'm doing chopping. Do you mean like if someone's like busting out like like a super long, like a like a tuna knife?
+
+[13:43] Like what are we talking about? Like, what's too long? You what do you think is too long for a knife? I have no idea. At what point do you think it's more of a you know a judge of your of your nether regions as some sort of a stand-in?
+
+[13:52] I have no idea. I don't know, it's an interesting question. Uh Buck Carter writes in, not checking fridges and your section properly. First order comes and you're back to the fridge to get something. So not getting all your me's out and having to travel back and forth to the fridge all the time.
+
+[14:05] That's just weak thinking. It's weak thinking. Uh Adam Shearl writes in total lack of comprehending anything about surface area. Presumably, yeah, I hate that too. But like that's like a real meta kitchen peeve, you know what I mean?
+
+[14:14] But yeah, not understanding how food cooking works. And two, burnt black smoking oil that tastes and smells like gasoline. Usually, to me, it like smells of like rotting fish and rancid nasty. I hate that too. I freaking hate bad o a bad oil smell.
+
+[14:35] Don't you hate you hate a bad oil smell. In fact, I remember when we used to teach the uh Sous Vide Low Temp course, uh, we would uh do a fry off on a bunch of stuff, and a bunch of times the uh oil went over temp, and now the combination of short ribs and over temped oil, I can still just thinking about it makes makes me uh a little little nauseated a little bit. You know what I mean? I can I can anyone ever ha else have that? They have like specific things because I was also food poisoned when I did that class.
+
+[15:01] I was really sick. Remember that? And so I had to come in and teach the class even though I was food poisoned and like, you know, couldn't even like really concentrate or see straight. And so like that assault of that smell on my system while I was already completely damaged has impregnated it in my head and ruined me on that. I can't tolerate it anymore.
+
+[15:21] Weird, right? Yeah. It's weird how your body works that way. Uh okay. And Jimmy Criv again, back with when servers say it's so hot, uh it's so hot back here after only 30 seconds near the line.
+
+[15:35] He's like, You're making the tips. That's just weak. That's just weak that you get so so busy. If you can't stay Jimmy is saying, if you can't stand the heat, you you might as well want to get out of the kitchen. Uh and last but not least, he writes in, filling quart containers or lexans to the brim.
+
+[15:50] Oh, I hate that. Because when you open the quart container, the stuff pours all out. You can't help it. Like, unless unless you really have the fortitude to be like, oh crap. And put the quirk container inside of a cambro to open it so that you catch the spillage.
+
+[16:01] That's just dumb. That's just dumb. I hate that. And portioning out proteins before they're cool. I mean, I'm presumably mean cutting it so that they dry out and turn nasty.
+
+[16:11] Also, I'll leave one. When people pre-s when the people slice for portions before they go out, way the hell too early. Like for like if you're gonna send out like sliced meats or like a duck breast and you and you and then they crisp it off and they do a great job. They put it out to rest, and then they slice it like for like five minutes, ten minutes before that sucker's gonna go out to the customer, and it looks all old and nasty. I don't think people do that more than a day.
+
+[16:34] We used to see that all the time in the final exams for the students. But if you did that for more than a day at a restaurant, you'd be like beaten senseless, which you can't do at the FCI. The FCI weren't allowed to beat students senseless, as it turns out. Because it's a strange thing. They were customers as well as as as like workers, so it's like weird thing.
+
+[16:50] That's actually the hardest thing Stas had to wrap her head around. I was like, you know, you're not allowed to go uh ape tastical on these people, Stas, because they're also your customer. She's like, I don't get it. I don't get it. Is there an internet here?
+
+[17:00] Uh wait, hold on. Uh uh. Yeah, we'll get you uh internet on the break books. Uh okay, here's some peeves that I have. Wrapping, I think I've said some of these on the air, wrapping things in aluminum foil that aren't labeled and putting them in a fridge.
+
+[17:13] I'm gonna do a bunch of home ones because we got mainly pro stuff. I hate that. Once you wrap something in aluminum foil and put it in my fridge, you might as well have thrown that sucker in the freaking garbage, especially if you wrapped it and you're only at my house for an hour and you wrap it and you put it, or whatever, three hours, four hours eating. You put it in the fridge, and then I I don't know what it is and it's garbage. I'm getting hot.
+
+[17:32] Uh Booker, you should take off your coat. Uh uh Wasn't that one of the pet peeves right there? Yeah. Well, yeah, he's a he's a he's in the kitchen here for like 30 minutes. Jeez.
+
+[17:40] Oh my god. My own son. Uh putting kitchen equipment away when you don't know where it goes. So that the guy who lives in the kitchen and works in the kitchen all the time can't find it and has to spend half an hour finding the peeler. This is why I have four freaking identical Coon Recon Y peelers in my kitchen, so that three separate people can shaft me and put the freaking peeler away in a place that I don't know where it is, and I still have one left.
+
+[18:10] And yet still, time and again, I occasionally will have to spend 15 minutes looking for a peeler. I hate this. That's the problem because your maid keeps hiding them. I don't have a maid. Or whatever you call her.
+
+[18:21] I don't have a maid. Stas is like a classic on like not caring about people at all. She doesn't care about their maid. Whatever. What do you want to do?
+
+[18:29] What do you go? Using my knives without asking. Or anyone's knives. I would never walk into somebody's kitchen and like pick you know pick up their like chef's knife and just start using it without asking whether that's the knife I should use. And very similar thing, cutting on top of surfaces without asking whether it's okay to cut on top of the surface.
+
+[18:45] How many times does this happen to you, Stas? People just come and they take your knife and then they start chopping on top of something they shouldn't be chopping on top of. No, it doesn't happen. Why? Because you killed him first?
+
+[18:54] I thought you said you had bad friends. Oh. I think Stasza said no. I don't care. I don't know to every single one of these.
+
+[19:01] Yeah, yeah. Not smelling boards or containers for things like onions. Uh pros who come to your house and mease out all of your stuff when you only need a little bit for a recipe. Like I need some potatoes, and so they peel and cut every potato you have in the house, the entire five-pound sack. That ever happened to you?
+
+[19:18] Mm-mm. What do you do for a living? Uh not sitting down when I tell you to sit down at the table for eating. I hate that, right? And not having the table set when I've told you half an hour in advance that the dinner's gonna be ready in a half an hour.
+
+[19:32] I hate that. That never happens to you either. No, they get things done. For as bad as they are, they get things done. Your friends do?
+
+[19:38] Nice. Messing with food in a pan for no freaking reason. The stuff's just sitting there, it's sauteing, or it's crisping up on the bottom, or it's rendering its fat, it's minding its own business. Don't dork with the food. I hate that.
+
+[19:53] Do you not do you not care about that one either, or does that one bother you? Only Claire does that. And does it bother you? Mm-hmm. I tell her.
+
+[19:59] Oh, you do tell her. Alright, nice. Uh worry. Oh, here's one Stas gonna be mad at me before. Worrying about your personal comfort while you're cooking.
+
+[20:06] It's too late. You're cooking. Now the only thing that matters is the food. If you cared about your personal comfort, the time to care about it was before you started cooking. But Stas hates that about me because I never take my personal comfort into consideration in any circumstance whatsoever.
+
+[20:19] I don't get that one though. Like, oh, uh, I'm gonna go change, or oh, I need to pee. No, no. You should have peed beforehand. Like the clothes that you're now cooking with, you're now finishing.
+
+[20:30] It's not time to go worry about other crap. Your own comfort or something that you forgot to do during the day. Now comes the time in the day where we care about the food. And the food is the only thing that matters. Like, oh, my hand's a little burnt.
+
+[20:41] Okay, if it's majorly burnt, that's one thing. If it's a little bit burnt, you suck it up and you care for it after the food comes out. That's it. It's like when you're there, when you're cooking, you are not a person with your own thoughts and desires. What you are is a machine to make the best possible food that you can make.
+
+[20:57] That's it. Everything else is BS, in my, in my opinion. Uh alright. So that's good for the peeves. Uh, Jeff, right?
+
+[21:04] Yeah? Anything else? Do you have any peeves that you hate? No. You just don't want to call them out?
+
+[21:08] No, I don't. Nice. Alright. Well, uh, I'll take one more. Uh, Jeff, this is not a peeve.
+
+[21:14] Uh Jeff Stengem told me how to pronounce it by the way. Apparently pronouncing it incorrectly, but it's as close as an American's gonna be able to get uh Jeff Stengem. Writes in Dave, Nastasha, Jack, Joe, and hello Chris. Although I'm sorry we missed Chris. We talked about it a little bit because it's Chris's recipe, but we mentioned it last week.
+
+[21:28] Uh and I'll give you the shout out for Booker as well. Uh hey Dave, I contacted you about 18-inch non-PVC pr plastic wrap on Twitter the other day. So plastic wrap for those of you that know, uh typically home plastic wraps now are made of polyethylene, which is generally considered uh food safe, doesn't have plasticizers in it. It can still have solvents in it that haven't flashed off if it's done uh poorly, but the it's generally considered fairly inert, whereas the other, although it's uh poor gas barrier, uh the other one uh that's in common use is PVC, uh better gas barrier actually, uh however has the possible nasty effect of uh having uh estrogenic or some compounds in it that you don't want. Nasties, right?
+
+[22:12] Uh and there's a lot of research out there and a lot of back and forth, but uh I in general tend to avoid PVC for food contact. Um I've been making this is back to the question. I've been making Chef Steph's version of a chicken roulade with meat glue uh transglutaminase, which is a great technique. You know, I've been plastic wrapping, you know. Nils first showed me how to do Nils Noran uh showed me how to do uh the plastic wrap tubes because back at uh Akavy, you know, years and years ago, uh he would shape every meat into a tube.
+
+[22:40] We I used we used to joke with Nils that like, you know, uh that if in Nils's world, if Nils were God, all animals would just grow in the shape of a tube so that they could be cooked evenly and portioned evenly and served out. He might like he would have in his mind, fish swim through the oceans as perfect tubes, and uh shrimp, you know, flap around as perfect tubes, cows are perfect tubes, small perfect tubes. Anyway, um and he's very good at making perfect tubes with plastic wrap. Uh chicken roulade with meat glue. I wanted to try it with larger cuts of meat, uh, making the 12-inch wrap that I uh use a challenge to tie off.
+
+[23:15] You suggested trying uh a supermarket. Unfortunately, the supermarket brands stop making wider wrap, which is the source of my problem. I've looked at every restaurant supply store and uh food wholesale market in Seattle, and I've searched online and cannot find any 18-inch wrap without PVC that doesn't sound worthless. Uh I've read Chris's plastic safety article at the Modernist site and Chef Steps and uh made me rethink my use of PVC and the possible estrogenic effects. For myself, I don't really care.
+
+[23:43] Uh sounds like use does. Uh, but I have a daughter that visits in the summer and we like to experiment. I also regularly cook for people with children. I was researching and found an article that interviewed Harold McGee uh and he mentioned cryovac bags. He said that because the layer in contact with the food is polyethylene, uh, it lowered his concern about the PVC and outer layers.
+
+[24:01] Real cryovac bags are multi-layered and yeah, usually have some sort of polyethylene or similar inert layer on the inner side. Uh since it looks like I'm stuck with PVC, I was wondering if wrapping a layer of 12-inch polyethylene around the meat and then using the PVC uh to form and tighten the package would effectively prevent plasticizers from migrating to the roulette. It's tough to say. Uh it depends on how porous they are, and uh things in plastics tend to migrate back and forth uh with each other. And uh yeah, I mean depending on how they're made, and you know, and also especially the th these things are typically more lipophilic.
+
+[24:33] The answer to that question is I don't know. Um Although it depends also on how long the contact's gonna be. Presumably it's not gonna be that long the contact. I haven't been able to find data on this, but don't have access to journals. I was not able to find data on that either.
+
+[24:45] What do you think about this idea, the dual use? If you don't have a clue, do you have any suggestions about where I could go next with research? Should everyone that uses this technique uh place uh um uh ask people like PolyScience to carry wider, safe plastic wrap with their bags. I want to thank all of you, Cooking Issues, Heritage Radio and Shestes for everything that you do. Getting entertained by Dave in the Hammer every week makes learning a joy, and Chris's site is a daily part of my life.
+
+[25:08] Looking forward to the arrival of my Sears all. Thanks again, Jess Denjam. Uh okay, so listen. Here's the here's the secret. Uh you don't need to have the length of plastic wrap.
+
+[25:21] Uh okay, so I want you all to picture what's going on in in in your head here. You're taking a work surface. I like going directly on the stainless. Don't do it on a cutting board. The reason why is the cutting board will slip around uh as you work, even if you have uh, you know, the wet paper towel under the uh under the thing.
+
+[25:38] Use directly your work surface, get a uh like a damp towel and put a line of moisture, right, on the on your work surface, and then spread out a piece of plastic wrap so the moisture's at the top, and then you can pull uh a little bit on the plastic wrap to get a nice taut flat sheet of plastic wrap on your work surface. Now, the the width as you're looking at the width, right, which is what uh which is what Jess's talking about here, needs to be wide enough such that your entire roulade or tube, whatever you're gonna make into a tube, the entire thing fits with you have enough place to hold on the end and wrap back and forth like a rolling pin, pull it, you know, to form the tube. So it forms a tube much like a sausage tube, right? It needs to be wide enough for that to happen. But here's what I think that you're missing, uh Jeff, that you that's gonna help you out, is that you can use see you what you're using is you're using the width of the plastic wrap, right, as the as the width of the roulade, and then cutting the plastic wrap such that the you know you're you're you're doing the length front to back.
+
+[26:41] No, no, no, no, no. When you do very large roulades or even normal size ones if you only have small plastic wrap, what you do is you have the width of the plastic wrap line up front to back, and you just tear off larger pieces, right? And so you're doing it 90 degrees to the way that you're doing it. Now you can make the the roulade as long as you want. And it turns out that if you layer the plastic wrap, right, one, and then you you leave an inch and a half, excuse me, an inch and a half or two inches of overlap between the first piece and the next piece that you layer over it, right?
+
+[27:16] That you're not gonna get leakage, especially because you're gonna be pull you're rolling it into a tube and you're gonna put multiple layers on anyway. So, what I would recommend is doing it that way. Uh cutting going the wide way, making it as wide as you want, putting one layer, start always as far away from you as possible, make it taut, put the next one on, overlap like two, maybe even three inches, and pull it down, and then you should be able to uh do your roulade that way. It'll roll up, it'll roll up nicely, and when you put the second layer on, because I always recommend doing two layers when you pull it, wrap it tight once, fold the uh pigtails under, and then wrap again, you will not get leakage through that uh through that section. So that's how I recommend.
+
+[27:59] And you can take any size plastic wrap you have within reason and do any size uh roulade within within reason. I mean, we used to do very big ones uh for demonstrations at the uh FCI, and that's how we do it. So hopefully that helps. Uh let's take our first commercial break. Before we go to a break, Dave.
+
+[28:14] Yes. I just got a message from a listener named Wyatt who says, with no nothing else, I would buy a shirt that says enemy of quality with Dave's face on it, FYI. Yeah? Yeah. So just something to think about.
+
+[28:27] All righty. All right. Nice. Whoa. All right, cool.
+
+[28:32] We'll be right back. Since 2001, Heritage Foods USA has sold pasture-raised antibiotic-free heritage meats to restaurants and homes around the country. Our farmers raise their animals with care using traditional methods guaranteed to produce the very best tasting meat. Our pork breeds include Berkshire, Red Waddle, Durok, Gloucester Old Spot, Large Black, and Tamworth. And our beef comes from Piedmontese, Angus, Akiyushi, Belgian Blue, Highland, Cimental, and Belted Galloway Cattle.
+
+[29:06] We also carry rotation of twenty-four rare breeds of heritage chicken, seasonal specialties like lamb, goat, geese, and of course, Heritage Turkeys. Visit us online at www.heritagefoods USA dot com. Or give us a call at 718-389-0985 to place your order today. And we're back. And we're so who's we who's who brought us the show today?
+
+[29:33] Heritage Foods USA. HeritageFoods USA.com. Yeah? Do you have anything nice too? You like those guys?
+
+[29:38] Yeah, they're good people. Yeah, I hear they've got some good stuff. So uh Jack, you want to talk hot sauce? Yeah, I do. We're uh we're participating in a hot sauce expo with our pal Jimmy Carbone.
+
+[29:48] And uh had a few listeners kind of wondering what your thoughts on the extreme hot sauce people, you know. Did do you like really, really hot hot sauce? Is that ridiculous to you? Well, okay. Where do you stand?
+
+[29:59] So here's the thing. There are ex there are it depends on how hot is hot, right? So let's just before we get into sauces, let's talk peppers, right? Uh habaneros are delicious, for instance, right? And you know, when I was uh, you know, uh uh a 20-year-old, the habanero was the hottest pepper that you could get.
+
+[30:22] They were still relatively difficult to source in s regular supermarkets at the time. You had to go to a specialty place, and they were hot, but everybody realized that habaneros had a reason for existence, right? They they tasted really good. They had uh this kind of amazing like floral uh fruity aroma that you know other most other peppers didn't have, and kind of a real uh nice character to the spiciness. And so there were some extreme hot sauces that had habanero as the base, and they tasted really good because they tasted like habanero, but you had to use them sparingly because they were very hot.
+
+[30:59] Uh now let's let's ramp up to current hot peppers, hot hot peppers, the Naga Jalochia, the ghost pepper. You know what? That thing tastes like like nothing. It doesn't taste interesting, it's not interesting, it's just damagingly hot. Uh and so, you know, prior to that, back when I was uh, you know, when I I think I've mentioned this on the show before, when I was uh when I got out of college, I didn't really have a decent job.
+
+[31:23] I was, you know, uh waiting to start up work as a paralegal, and my my wife had a really good job working for Caesar Pellies as a you know uh a very famous architect, especially at the time, uh, in New Haven. And so I sat around with a fried daddy training myself to eat hot peppers by uh by frying deep frying habanero chili rellenos and just eating them one after the other until I was completely inured to capsation, right? So I said to myself, okay, I can take this. And uh so what's the next step? At the time, the next step after um, this is before super like in Dave's insanity sauce and stuff was out, at least it was before I knew about it.
+
+[31:57] And uh, although there was uh at the time, like the the whole hot and salsa thing was taking off kind of great guns. This is in ninety ninety-two, ninety-three, around that that time. And uh, you know, I I kind of realized there was a market for just, you know, who could who can, you know, i what's a polite way of saying this? It's like, you know, just kind of like proving your manhood by by eating hotter and hotter and hotter and hotter things, right? And then subsequently proving that, you know, women can eat as hot of a thing as it as a D-bag guy can eat, and things just got hotter and hotter and hotter.
+
+[32:32] And I and I was caught up in that, I guess because I was young and dumb. And so I sourced uh a bunch of the oleo resin, which is the stuff that you use to just add pure heat, the stuff that comes with like legit warning labels of bad things happening to you if you eat it. I sourced it from an industrial supply, you know, way back in the day. And I realized this stuff just doesn't have any good taste. And so then a lot of the hyper hot sauces that have come out, uh, to me, taste of that oleo resin, which is fundamentally pure spice and the dregs of what maybe at one time was a decent chili, but is now just uh just about spice.
+
+[33:08] And so there's very little flavor in those things, and you know, and I I'm not trained anymore, so like I don't like things as super hot, although I can still take it better than most people can. Um so my my my point is if it if it helps the flavor, then I'm all all for it, you know. And if it's just done as a stunt, I think it's kind of uh a crappy idea. I think it's especially a bad idea to put intensely hot things uh all over like otherwise nuanced foods because you're just gonna ride over the top. I don't care how good you are, even at the height of my training with with eating hot stuff, I would have to have admitted that you know it's gonna be very difficult to tell, you know, uh I mean you could tell texture is fine, but like the actual kind of um you know, base note flavors and stuff is just so much going on in your mouth that it just it's hard to tell what the hell's going on.
+
+[34:00] It's you know, it's there's a fine line to it, but there's definitely a place where I think even the biggest spicophile will realize that the line's been crossed. And you know, that's why you know, at the bar we've had a bunch of spicy drinks, and uh, you know, my point is, yeah, I can take it and I I like the spice even, but are we still balanced? Are we still in the business of doing something that's balanced or not? Is this making sense, Jack, or no? Sorry, I was distracted, Dave.
+
+[34:24] Yeah, all right. You asked me the question, I don't even know whether I answered it right. Alright, whatever. We had a guest come in. Yeah, alright.
+
+[34:29] Well, anyway, so my point is uh my point is, you know, I'm fine with the super hot sauces. I like I used to like the ones that uh have a lot of flavor. In fact, the most interesting one we had was called uh it wasn't spicy at all. It was a pepper sauce made by uh Dune North in New Zealand was sent to us by a listener and was uh uh a completely non spicy pepper sauce that had such a rich pepper flavor. I love that.
+
+[34:54] You know what I mean? I love it. Uh they left it somewhere. Uh uh luckily they sent me two bottles, and so uh we lost one because I think we lost it at Roberta's. We brought it to the table and we're eating it and then it got busted away or something, we lost it, but we you know, I was able to to keep the other one.
+
+[35:08] So someday they will ship it to uh the US of A. Alright. Uh Jack's like, I don't know, I don't care. Uh did we talk last week about vacuum marinating in a in a in a uh in a in a I in a ISI whipper? Not that I can recall.
+
+[35:22] All right. Well, clearly it's not vacuum marinating, but Brendan Lee wrote in and said, uh, can you talk about vacuum marination uh of meat in a uh siphon? Uh well, okay, so look. So for those of you that don't know what we're talking about, is in vacuum marination, what you're doing is pulling a vacuum on a uh piece of uh meat, and thereby oh, we have talked about this over the past couple of weeks of trying to accelerate the rate at which cure or brine uh goes in. This actually dovetails with uh something that was written in uh by Harry that we're gonna deal with in a in a in a minute.
+
+[35:52] He he says, uh, hey Dave, uh have you seen um uh physicist Greg Blonder, B L O N D E R's website, uh which is W W W dot genuine ideas.com. Uh have you seen uh his website where he plays around with cooking? Uh you might be interested in uh this investigation he did about dye. So if you go to uh if you look up dye, uh you know, Greg Blonder and like food dye, I'd seen some of his research, but this article is really awesome. It talks about rate of diffusion of different uh molecules into uh different meats at different rates and and how they work.
+
+[36:28] So it'd be interesting to to combine that with uh vacuum stuff, because I don't think he did that yet, but it's fantastic read. I I recommend everyone uh who hears this goes to check out uh that that page because it's just really I think it's really good work. Uh but so we when you're doing uh vacuum marination, that that's one thing. In in the ISI bottle in a siphon, you're doing the opposite. You're trying to use pressure to force um to force under pressure liquid into meats.
+
+[36:55] And in fact, uh I thought of uh the the reason I thought of rapid infusion uh at all was a guy named Mr. Fizz was using his carbonation system to pressure inject marinades into meats. So it definitely works. Uh I would recommend doing uh a double a double pressure. So um I I I don't know whether I I did publish it actually, or I should say Paul published it uh on cooking issues.
+
+[37:21] Uh you can do uh infusion in an ISI uh just like you can in a vacuum where you you pressurize the stuff in under pressure. The question is you want to release it slowly. Here's why. When you pressurize uh when you pressurize a product into a piece of meat, let's say, you're also injecting in air, you're compressing any air that's in there, you're compressing it down very small. When you release the pressure, that air will re-expand again.
+
+[37:46] It will tend to leave and will also tend to generate uh pores within it that allow further penetration on the next go-around, but you definitely want to put two different pressure cycles on it. But it definitely works, and if you look at Mr. Fizz's old uh stuff back in the day, you can see him, it's really gross actually, because he's doing in a plastic bottle, and you can see chicken getting injected with uh brine uh under pressure. But I definitely recommend two pressure pushes, not one. And you can also do it if you if you happen to have a uh if you happen to have like a corny keg and and uh like a larger system, you can you can do it in a corny keg as well.
+
+[38:23] I have not done um I have not done it with CO2, which is what you would probably use in a larger corny keg because you probably don't have a nitrous tank like I do. But I've had people uh try it and tell me that when they cook the meat afterwards, presuming that you cook it properly. Uh well, when I say properly, I mean uh, you know, all the way through to a warm temperature, that there will be uh no more residual CO2 taste, but I cannot vouch for this because I have not tried it. But you should be able to do like you know, a whole suckling pig that way in a in a well, no. I mean you have to be able to fit it through the lid of the corny keg, but as long as you put it in the corny cake.
+
+[38:57] There's uh there's other things, by the way. You can get what's called a pressure pot, if you don't want a corny keg, uh, that they use for spray painting, and that you could fit like a whole uh turkey into. You can get them at like uh what's that what's that tool store? Harbor Harbor Freight. You can get them at like Harbor Freight.
+
+[39:13] Just be careful because the insides of them aren't necessarily food grade, so you're gonna want to put stuff in a plastic bag. And I bought one once that smelled like petroleum for forever, and I wasn't able to get the petroleum smell out. I wasn't using it for food, so please I don't want to hear it. Yeah? Yeah.
+
+[39:25] All right. Okay. Howard, what? Oh, geez, what? Sound bad?
+
+[39:30] Right. Uh Howard wrote in, uh, let me see if I get it. Uh uh no, Harry. I got Harry. Harry was chatting with the pastry chef I work with, and we had a quick question.
+
+[39:39] We've been doing an aerated chocolate, uh, tempered chocolate, I aside into a container and then placed in a vacuum machine uh as a mingel diz, mingel dizzy. You like that French word? You like little petty four things, little small things? That's like I don't give a crap. Uh and we're curious if there's any way to dispense some of the chocolate into the container, then layer a denser thing, perhaps a praline paste, and then more of the chocolate with the idea that when the mixture goes into the vacuum, the denser material will fill all the holes that are created in the aerated chocolate.
+
+[40:08] Thanks, Harry. Now listen, uh I don't think so. I'm just gonna go ahead and say I don't think so. Uh now I'm always wrong, but my feeling is this when you're aerating chocolate, you're the what's happening is is that there are already, remember I said before, there's minute air, air bubbles and pockets uh inside of your product, right? Especially when you ISI it, it's not really air, there is some air, but it's nitrous oxide and small stuff.
+
+[40:29] When you're putting it in the vacuum machine, what's happening is you are uh inflating that. Uh you're inflating that and then setting it. But uh there's not uh migration of that air out or that nitrous out. If there was, you would lose the structure because the chocolate can't hold its own structure that way until after it's set into a solid. And so my feeling is you're gonna have a closed cell foam.
+
+[40:57] And in a closed cell foam where there's no actual continuous path between the uh different uh pockets, the different, you know, uh whatever you want to call them, air cells, uh nitrous cells, there's no way to infuse stuff into them. Now, what it would be possible to do is to um is to make a uh some sort of like beady sauce, and then uh like a like emulsifier mix that in and then do it that way, even maybe with a possible also uh secondary aeration, so it was a little less hard than it would otherwise be. But I don't see any way to do it directly the way you're saying you could get it to layer, but you wouldn't be able to get those uh those holes filled with something else. But as I say, I have been wrong many, many, many times. So it might be a situation where you could aerate the block, cut the block open, and then there might be some open uh passageways through it, and then you could post infuse a product into it once it's solid.
+
+[41:58] Uh, but you know, then you're gonna have uh you're gonna have other difficulties. But I think it's very gonna be a very difficult, uh, very difficult proposition. Um okay. So Howard wrote in last week, and I did not get any tweets uh in on on this, uh, and you know, Stas didn't give me any good ideas of where you should go in Europe, even though she does nothing but wishes she could go back to Switzerland. But he wrote in last week.
+
+[42:21] Uh big fan, uh longtime listener. Um planning my first trip to Europe with my brother in about a month, now a little less than a month. Uh while I'm there, I want to take in sight sound and most importantly the food. I'll be sticking to Western Europe for this trip, but I'm having a hard time deciding where to go. I was hoping I could pick your brain uh and the brains of the folks at the Heritage Radio Network for ideas on cul culinary pilgrimages, pilgrimages, epicurean experiences and must-try dishes or go to equipment shops.
+
+[42:43] Keep up the amazing work. Howard. All right, look. Howard, here's the thing. No one's writing in uh on this, even though I asked them to.
+
+[42:50] It's all right, it's all right, it's all right. Uh, but here's how I go about this sort of thing. If I haven't been to a place before, right, uh, I will sometimes ask people, you know, like where you know where we should go. So for instance, if you're going to London, you need to go to Neil's Yard Dairy and have the cheese, right? Uh you should go to my friend Tony's bar.
+
+[43:09] You should go to, I mean, if you have the time, obviously you should go to the fat. All these things. Like, there's, you know, there's there's great restaurants. I can give you a list of great restaurants. If you're gonna be anywhere near uh Kent, you should go to Favisham and go to the farm.
+
+[43:21] If you're gonna go to Paris, you know, and you want to go to a good shop. I you know, I I can't even pronounce it, but that there's that awesome old shop. It's called like the Hilarin or something like that. And it's amazing, 200-year-old uh shop filled with a bunch of curmudgeons that you need to go to, or like Bertalome, which is I think on the Rue de Grenouille, which is like you know, my favorite cheese shop, and you gotta go to the Mad Lane joint uh, you know, you gotta go get uh macarons up in like you know near the Rue Mad Lane, you gotta go to Fouchon, you gotta do all that stuff. But you know, if you're you know, what you should do, what I highly recommend anytime I'm going someplace, what I do first is I go and believe it or not, Wikipedia, and I just go uh ballistic on reading whatever the local crap is that they have that no one else has.
+
+[44:01] One. Right. So and and by the way, every place that I've ever been in Europe has really interesting things to eat and interesting things to see from a food standpoint. And any place you go, you should always find out when and where the best markets are where hardcore people shop, right? And you need to go there early enough in the day so that you get an idea of what's going on, and then you should ask them for only products that are from around that region or that are peculiarly peculiar or typical to that region.
+
+[44:31] So that's the first thing. Whenever I'm going to another place, I make sure that whoever is hosting me or who wherever I'm going or whatever I'm doing, I have time to visit local markets and see what's going on. That's where I learn that the most. I also like to go to a local supermarket to figure out what like the average person is shopping at a supermarket, figure that out, although that's maybe not exactly what you're talking about. Uh and then uh I just do a lot of research searching and finding out what the local uh local fabulous dishes are, or at least the ones that are only uh available there and not available uh anywhere else.
+
+[45:04] And that's really and I just do like a boat ton of reading beforehand. Um but I you know always make sure that I get I I hit those, I hit those things. At this point in my life, I have so much kitchen crap that I rarely go to sho I rarely buy hard goods anymore. I'm mainly interested in foods that I can't bring home and can't have uh otherwise. And if you got the money for it and the time, and you know, I recommend like once in a vacation going to like a really like butt-kicking, like a like a three-star, you know what I mean?
+
+[45:36] But I'll I would only do it like once or so. I think otherwise you get kind of palate fatigue, try to figure it out. Uh you know, which one you want to go to, but it's always a good experience to do. Yeah. Helpful advice?
+
+[45:45] I know. Yeah. Yeah, whatever. Just like don't care. You get to go to Europe soon.
+
+[45:44] I I am going. I'm going to actually I'm bringing Booker does not want to go to Paris. He will not go, he will not. Hey Booker. Yes.
+
+[45:58] Do you want do you are why do you not want to go to Paris with me? Because I hate leaving the country. Hmm. Alright. Hates leaving the country.
+
+[46:06] Nice. Alright. Why? Why? Okay, Booker, why do you hate leaving the country?
+
+[46:10] Because I really love home. And I'm worried that if we get caught in a foreign country, we would get lost. Just like in Japan, once you got lost. I did uh but am I back? Yes.
+
+[46:25] When did you get lost? I didn't get lost. It's in his mind that he thinks I got lost. I never got we never Astas. Nastasha was with me in Japan.
+
+[46:31] We didn't get lost. Anyway, he doesn't want to go. And you know what I said to him? I said, Booker, someday you're gonna regret not going. And what did you say?
+
+[46:39] I'll never regret. I hate leaving USA and I will never leave my home. Wow. Real patriot like his father. Well, well, no, I like I like traveling places.
+
+[46:48] Anyways, Dax is gonna go to Paris with us, and so I'm gonna take him, hopefully. Although it's not my favorite time of year for cheese in in France, like like uh the Vachan Mondor that I you get at Bartholomew is pfft one of my favorite things on on earth. Anyway, okay, look. Steve Crandall writes in, hello, love your show. It's very informative and entertaining.
+
+[47:03] I would like to know how you make your pizza sauce and what cheeses do you use on your pizza? Uh, what can I do to my blodget 981 oven to make it reach very high temperatures like you did your home oven? Uh although remember, my oven at home was uh was a garland. My new one is uh a wolf, which is the same thing as uh a Vulcan. I listened to an earlier episode where someone was having trouble with lumpy shrinking dough.
+
+[47:25] When I have dough like that, I put it back in the fridge for another day or two, and then it's very easy to work with. Also, uh this is a separate question. If I brine my chicken uh wings, will that make their uncooked shelf life longer? If so, how long would you hold them before cooking? Alright, I'll answer that one first.
+
+[47:38] Uh you'll probably uh this is from that was from Pat in Old Forge. Wait, that's from Pat. It says from Pat, but then up top it says that it's from uh Steve Crandall. Which one is it? Steve Crandall.
+
+[47:50] All right. Well, I'm sorry, one of you, I'm shafting one of you. Anyway, uh so you're gonna yeah, you're gonna get some extension in shelf life whenever you uh salt something out, or at least you will slow the microbial growth, but a lot depends on exactly what brine strength you're talking about. And uh in general, I wouldn't use that as a as like a hold safe technology, do you know? Although I've had fermented chicken uh and and uh spare ribs that were held for a long time because they had to ferment.
+
+[48:17] Andy, you know, used to do those, they're delicious. Andy Ricker does a fermented spare rib thing, which I think is really awesome. Anyway, so back to your other question. Blodget 981 oven, uh, for those of you that don't know what we're talking about, is a uh deck oven, a commercial deck oven. Uh uh the one that I saw online is gas fired.
+
+[48:34] Uh and it only goes up to 500 degrees, which is not very good. Uh now here's what you here's here's what I'm gonna tell you. Anything you do to this oven could potentially render what that was Pat. All right. Pat, I don't know what was Steve then.
+
+[48:47] Did I miss his question? You must it must be up. Whatever. Is it above the page? I don't know.
+
+[48:51] Uh so uh sorry Pat, this is your question. So here you are. So anything you do could potentially be unsafe. Uh could put and will cause the outside of the oven to get much hotter than a normal commercial oven normally gets because they don't have as good insulation. You might cause other ancillary bad things to happen.
+
+[49:10] I'm just letting you know. Uh now, there are two things. What I did in my oven was my original oven was I use the existing gas delivery system, right? And in the old garlands, when you crank the thermometer up all the thermostat all the way, it actually goes into runaway mode, would mean that it's no longer thermostatically controlled. And when it's in runaway mode and not thermostatically controlled anymore, uh the maximum temperature that oven can get to on its own is roughly 560, 570 degrees Fahrenheit.
+
+[49:41] Uh now, so what can you do? Well, you can add more power. Duh. So I put uh I put in uh two electrical heating elements to boost the power, and that's what allowed me to get up to uh eight hundred and fifty or change degrees because I added extra electrical heating elements. Now you have to be very careful.
+
+[49:59] You have to get what's called oven wire, or actually even heavier duty wire than oven wire, where the insulation can withstand those kinds of temperatures. You want to put them through ceramic grommets on the way through the uh oven so that when they go out and you want to put extra insulation there so that you don't zorch or zap yourself, right? Now in your deck oven, that's probably gonna be more uh difficult. What I would do for you is uh I looked it up and it actually has just a plain thermostat in it. So the two things you can do is increase the BTUs of that unit, right, by uh adjusting the actual burner elements that are in it, and two replace the thermostat.
+
+[50:32] I looked up, and in fact, you can just go buy a stock thermostat for that blodget, the FDTH thermostat, they will take it up to 650 degrees uh Fahrenheit. Now, on my oven, right, where I can put, in fact, have already my new oven, my wolf slash Vulcan where commercial again, where I've put the two heating elements in. The problem is that that thermostat's not in runaway. So another thing you can do is you can put the, you can leave your old thermostat in. I'm not recommending you do this.
+
+[50:58] Please don't do this. I'm not recommending you do this. It's physically possible to put a T in. Never bypass the safety valve, the baso. Never bypass the bezo safety valve.
+
+[51:09] But you can safely, if you are trained in doing gas piping, bypass the thermostat so that you can put the entire oven into runaway without replacing it. Then once the oven's in runaway, then you need a thermocouple to measure how hot it's getting in runaway. If when you put the thing in, by the way, runaway just means full-on gas. If when the thing's in runaway, it's getting hot enough for you, then you're done. If not, then you can think about augmenting the burner, putting a secondary uh maybe electrical unit in the top to boost the power a little bit.
+
+[51:40] And it doesn't take much. It doesn't take much. But those are things that I would uh look at. There's also a steam injection kit for that, which would be pretty cool. I think blodgets are good.
+
+[51:48] I used to have a blogger electric convection oven, and I had to get rid of it because I don't have the power anymore. But I love that damn thing. Oh uh we're out out of time. Our next guest is unfortunately. All right, so listen, I asked uh on the Twitter today for um for people to send me bad Yelp reviews, reviews of Yelp that were like crappy.
+
+[52:09] And apparently I'm not gonna have time to go into my uh rant slash musings on Yelp, the good, the bad, and the ugly, and the stupidity of some people that um that yelp out at you. So we'll have to do the Yelp next week, cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore Radio.
+
+[52:44] You can email us questions at any time at info at heritageradio network dot org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening to the
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by the International Culinary Center. Offering courses that range from classic French techniques and culinary pastry and bread baking to Italian studies to management. From culinary technology to food writing, from cake making to wine tasting. For more information, visit international culinary center.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn.
+
+[0:23] If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Cooking issues! Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Isers coming to you live on the Heritage Radio Network and Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushway! Right?
+
+[1:18] Mm-hmm. I think so. Calling your questions to you. 7184972128. That's 7184972128.
+
+[1:25] A little bit of a sad note uh on the program today. Joe from the engineering booth has left us. Has left us. But we have Evan in the booth today, am I right? Is that we do?
+
+[1:36] Yeah. You're there, good. So, uh yeah, so we'll be seeing uh we'll hear more of uh of Evan, I guess as time goes on. We know what uh what Joe's moved on to? Uh more band stuff, big ups.
+
+[1:48] Nice. Awesome. So uh, you know, uh, as you may or may not know, Joe is the front man in a band. What's the band name again? Big ups.
+
+[1:55] Oh, big ups. I thought you were giving him big ups. I thought uh big ups for Joe moving on in the thing. Now that band's name is Big Ups, and we can give Joe uh big ups. I'm sure he has something on the iTunes.
+
+[2:06] He does indeed. Yeah, yeah, and follow him on the on the Twitter. We wish him well. We like some we like ourselves in Joe. Mm-hmm.
+
+[2:11] Yeah, right? Nice. All right. Uh Stas, how are you doing? You were you were in the week in the California, yeah?
+
+[2:16] Yep. She went to California and her hair went more California while she was gone. She she's lost some of her it only takes one week, apparently, for Nastasia Lopez to lose her New York edge and to turn back into a California person. You don't think so? No.
+
+[2:31] You get you've you've already gotten most of your New York anger back, you think? Yeah, yeah, this morning I did. Yeah. So you guys can't see this there at uh at home, but I brought and this has been in my fridge now for about two months. I have a uh what can only be described as a lady lemon.
+
+[2:46] You want to describe this thing, Nastasha? It looks like a labia. Wow, that was more graphic than I expected. And I uh what what are we gonna name this thing? Lululemon?
+
+[2:55] It's the most graphic lemon I've ever seen in my entire life. I don't know. If we maybe if people ask us, we could they could tweet out. Again, it's getting a little it's getting a little old. It's got a little uh some blemishes.
+
+[3:06] It didn't have this little herpy thing before. But um, yeah, if anyone is interested in seeing Lululemon here, we can uh we can definitely tweet that out. Uh I hear we have a caller, caller, you are on the air. Hey, how's it going? Going all right.
+
+[3:22] What is your question? Okay, sorry, uh there's a little bit of a delay on my end. Yeah, we're still here. Yeah. Question is that I have both my mother and sister claim that they have an intolerance to MSG.
+
+[3:39] And I had read Nathan Mirable's uh book and I'd always heard you speak on the topic. I don't know what um what experiment I should do to basically demonstrate that they don't have an intolerance to it. Well okay. So here's what you depends on are are they game for a good test or no? Pardon me?
+
+[4:02] Are they are they are they like good sports or no? Uh yeah, they'd be open to it. All right. Here's what you do. Uh go out to uh a supermarket or like you know, uh GNC or someplace that sells vitamins, whole foods sell these things, right?
+
+[4:19] And or Amazon and buy empty uh gel caps or vegetarian gel caps if they don't eat uh the the meat. Uh and then um get a predetermined amount of MSG, choose something reasonable, you know what I mean? Something that you might add to uh a recipe. Then uh bulk it up to you know whatever it takes to fill the gel cap, then fill the other gel cap, right, with the equivalent amount of sodium, a half and then other the same inert filler that you do. I have to do my math, but I think msg has I think roughly half the sodium by weight.
+
+[4:53] I gotta look it up. It's it's something like that, uh as salt, right? So that way you're accounting for any actual difference in sodium intake that they're getting uh from uh the MSG in the pill that's gonna affect them. Then once you have the pills, you wanna you want to keep them separate, obviously, the ones that don't have MSG from the ones that do. You want to take like uh an like an air like a like a a light mist of air or you know, something uh you know, like one of those uh keyboard dusters, and you're gonna want to blow any excess powder.
+
+[5:23] You want to be sure to try to get any powder off of the outside of the capsules uh you can. But then blow it a little bit with one of those dusters to to get to get rid of them the the pills need to look identical right and then what you do is you um feed them to them in random orders that only you can tell what's going on right and you take it but better yet even is to is to put them in pouches that are numbered have a third party hand it to them so that there's a that who doesn't know what's in each one so there's absolutely no way that there can be any sort of visual cues as to what they're going. If they swallow these pills without breaking them there is absolutely no way for them to taste the characteristic notes that are in MSG right then i if they have a reaction to uh if they have and you have to run this trial many times right so it's like a coin flip. It's possible to flip a coin for five six times and get the right answer five times in a row. So if you do this over the course and you know you can do it either with meals or empty whatever, but you're gonna want to do it the same way each time, right?
+
+[6:23] Uh and then if you if you do this course of study over a long enough period of time you will notice that if there is a reaction it is random and not correlated to whether or not there's MSG in the gel cap or not. Almost all the studies that showed an actual effect uh with MSG um showed it uh an effect when the MSG was added to things like uh orange flavored beverages because whoever set up the experiments at the time thought that they would be able to mask the flavor of the MSG with a with a very you know high flavored I guess tang equivalent or something like this. You can't do that because remember MSG is not just a like a flavor, but like salt, it's a pot it's a flavor potentiator. So you can tell kind of, in other words, like you like sub-threshold, before you can say there's MSG in there, you can taste that something's different, something that's going on. So you're gonna, you know, you want to make sure that they can't taste it at all.
+
+[7:12] And the, and I don't have it in my head, but the study that was the the kind of gold standard study for this showing that that you know they that the reactivity to MSG was a load of nonsense, that's how they did it. They did it with gel caps. Uh, and so, you know, that's that's definitely what I would recommend. Now, just on the actual science of it, as you know, aside from running an actual test, um, all of this like there's there's uh there's several different uh arguments against MSG. One of them is that uh it has to do with something called uh uh excitotoxicity.
+
+[7:42] So they're saying it's like it's like uh a neurotransmitter that can cause toxicity in the brain. This is a load uh it's a load of crap because you the frankly, because the MSG that you take in doesn't cross a blood-brain barrier at all. In fact, your brain uh synthesizes its own MSG uh and then uh not MSG uh glutamic acid, then converts it to glutamine to export back back across the blood brain uh blood brain barrier. Um and so remember you're it like glutamic acid is an entirely uh you know normally naturally occurring, in fact, necessary to life. Without without uh you know glutamic acid, you are hosed and your brain won't work properly.
+
+[8:21] Aside from the fact that you know it's in you know protein in general, without it, you're you know, your brain doesn't work right. So to say that, you know, it it is true that in certain situations, an an excess level of it in your brain is indicative of things going wrong, but it has nothing to do with uh the stuff that you're taking in. The studies that show damage from actually consuming large amounts of free glutamic acid were done on uh neonatal monkeys that whose blood brain barrier hadn't been set up properly, or on rodents who don't work the same way that we do regarding this. Now, another thing to to note is that a lot of the studies where people say they've had reactions, they're taking just straight MSG without uh a lot of uh food. Turns out that if you were to take a bunch of MSG and it not you know, don't do this, but a bunch, yeah, you can spike your the levels of uh you know glutamic acid in your blood.
+
+[9:11] Sure. You know what I mean? However, those spikes do not happen when MSG is consumed, even in fairly decent quantities with food. So, you know, pretty much all of the things that um are you know possibly could be wrong with it are just a load of malarkey. And you know, it turns out that if you look, there's a very good paper, and I don't have it at the tip of my tongue, but it's fairly easy to search for.
+
+[9:34] There's a good, and I think it was put out in the eighties or nineties, history of the entire MSG kind of phenomenon and how it kind of started as a lark about like what's going wrong with these people who were eating at Chinese restaurants in you know, uh, you know, a long time ago, and then trying to hone in on what the component is at you know, MSG. Whereas for me, my assumption is, and people have done studies on because you know, one of the things that you know, people like me who's always said that MSG is fine, we said no, it's really like anyone that has a reaction, it's it's probably the sodium, the same way that if you eat a boatload of uh you know cheese and and red wine, the next day you have a headache, or you know, you can you know, because you've consumed like eight eight tons of salt and alcohol, so you're dehydrated. And so uh, you know, the what I always say is that a lot of people they order a bunch of incredibly uh you know spiced and salty kind of uh Chinese food entrees, and they don't eat any rice, which would be the equivalent of walking into a McDonald's and just pounding the bottle of ketchup and not eating the hamburger. You know what I'm saying? Uh and so it's not really a uh a valid comparison.
+
+[10:36] Uh and plus a lot of people, if they think I mean, I'm actually reading a bunch of interesting uh books now on the effect of the mind, not only on how you feel uh how you feel from a kind of mental, uh like emotional physical state, but actually like how your body responds. Uh and so what what people think about MSG can have radically uh important effects on how their body reacts to things that contain it, especially if they can taste it, which is why going back to the uh the gel cap. So if you want to look at um kind of differential uh ways the body absorbs nutrients or reacts or metabolism slows up or speeds down, you can look at the work of uh Mattis, M A T uh M A T T E S out of uh uh Purdue, and then he links to a bunch of the old like the classic studies of like Swedish women versus uh Thai women and how their bodies differentially absorb food that they like or don't like. So there's a lot of interesting uh work like that out there, but it all adds up to don't worry about the MSG. Thanks very much.
+
+[11:36] Hey, no problem. Hope that helps. And uh tweet tweet on into at cooking issues and let me know if you were able to convince them because I like to hear I like to hear both sides. I like to hear whether or not they were convinced or whether they remained unconvinced. Yeah, as soon as I perform the test and and set it all up, I'll I'll definitely tweet that.
+
+[11:52] Super, thanks a lot. Thank you very much. So should we should you tweet out the Lululemon or no? Yeah. Are we allowed to call it Lululemon?
+
+[11:58] Do you think it's a good thing? No? Because we're gonna get we'll get that guy, that guy is already getting sued himself. He has more to worry about than whether we're calling the stuff Lululemon, right? What did he do that was so terrible again?
+
+[12:08] See-through yoga pants accidentally? How do you accidentally make a pair of see-through pants? It doesn't seem like you could do that by accident. Do you like do you like the phrase on accident? As opposed to the standard by accident?
+
+[12:23] Okay. Um Alright, now uh Evan, I got a question for you. We got a we got a uh response in, remember someone asked about uh what to do when they're in uh Europe, and we got this amazing uh answer in from uh San Stan B. Uh but it's like so long that I don't know that I can read it. Can we put it up on the uh like with the podcast on if I give you the text of the response and I can just read clips from it?
+
+[12:50] Yeah, I think we could do that. Alright. So this is like, and in fact, I'm going to gonna be in Paris for a couple of days. I'm gonna hit up some of this stuff uh uh too. Um so I'll read some of it, right?
+
+[13:00] In fact, I'll start with the end because uh I think Stan knew that it that I might not have time to read the whole thing. So he said at the end, if you do not read the whole thing on the show, see he knew. He knew. Uh, I'd appreciate a plug for Nicolas Bernardet. He is truly good and deserves recognition.
+
+[13:17] So right there we're gonna say, uh, you know, do that. But in the parts that I do read, here's what I don't want to hear. I don't want to hear any complaints about my French pronunciation, right? Because uh it's known that I suck, and it's also known that one of the reasons why uh I was sucked at French in high school was because of the pronunciation and how how I'm just bad at it. Anyway, okay.
+
+[13:39] Um here are a few pointers for Paris and France, regardless of cost, however. So I hope I don't know if regardless of cost. Yeah, so he starts right out with Tyvon, right? Uh Tavon and uh Le Cerre are both two Michelin stars, uh, and they serve uh top notch 21st century classic French cuisine. Go there if you uh want to understand what French food is supposed to be about.
+
+[13:56] Tavon has one of the most extraordinary wine cellars in France. Uh Claire Heitzler at Le Cerre got elected pastry chef of the year by her peers in 2012. Uh go check out the roast chicken at La Miloui, uh the bistrofaire of Le Comtois de Relais. I don't have to pronounce this stuff, the Comptoir de Relais, uh and the egg mayonnaise of Le Voltaire. The roasted duck of La Tour d'Argent.
+
+[14:17] I actually want to have that. You know what that? That's the ro that's the pressed duck. That's the famous pressed duck. Mm-hmm.
+
+[14:21] And they number it. I have no idea whether it tastes good or not, but they give you like a little certificate with the number like you ate pressed duck bubble butt. You know how they make the pressed duck? Yeah, we did it together. I can't remember whether you were with with us when we did that.
+
+[14:31] Yeah, but I would like to have the official I wonder how far in advance you have to sign up for that. Should do it now. Do you think Dax would like that? Dax is going to Paris at me. Dax will probably like that.
+
+[14:40] The squishing with the bones and like the stuff coming out. Well, check it out. I'm sure it's gonna be extremely expensive. Anyway, uh most dishes, uh oh, but apparently also Le Tour d'Argent has one of the best uh views of Paris. Most dishes at Le Bascu, uh, lots of uh by the glass wines at Tavon, etc.
+
+[14:55] etc. And then he's calling out Lyon to go to Bokusa's restaurant. Uh and I'm gonna put most of this stuff on just because it's like, you know, Gagnier, go to Gagnier in Paris. Uh I'm gonna go to the one he actually wants me to get out. He also says that quite a few Japanese chefs have opened excellent French uh based Japanese influenced uh restaurants in Paris.
+
+[15:12] Passage 53, uh Kai Hiramatsu, Stella Marie, a few others. Uh and then there's a huge long list of awesome uh sweets uh recommendations. So apparently Stan's real heart here is in uh the uh suites. And I'll add the one thing you want me to say. I'll shamelessly plug a recommendation for a personal favorite.
+
+[15:30] Do book a pastry class at Nicolas Bernardet's. Bernardet is a mayor of Rio defense, uh former teacher at the Cordon Blue, and his Saturday afternoon classes are the best value for money pastry teachings I could find. They tell me they speak English, e.g., they have foreign students doing internships and they all manage by speaking English. Not sure how it would work for a class, though. They are super nice, so just ask.
+
+[15:50] Classes at Le Notre School are more expensive, not as good humored, not taught by an MOF, but have the brand name and English can be guaranteed. Um for shopping, uh there's uh uh a bookstore in Paris called uh Library Gourmand, which I don't know about, but I wonder whether they have English books. My French sucks so hard. Um Getu will stock almost all the ingredients you could think of. Uh and Israel next to the Paris Town Hall is a bazaar of exotic food products.
+
+[16:16] Uh he recommends I recommended Bartolomey as a cheese shop. He recommends uh Marie Catrum, which I've actually been to, which is an amazing place. Uh and then etc. etc. So we're gonna put that entire uh recommendation list on El website, right?
+
+[16:27] Mm-hmm. Yeah? Yeah, yeah. Still thinking about the Lady Lemon. Uh Dave Hammer and Jack.
+
+[16:34] No Jack today, though. So I'm gonna say Dave Hammer and Evan, because Jack, Jack is like so sad, maybe from Jolie, and he just won't stop by the studio. I don't know. Uh love your show, learned so much, and I'm almost caught up after tearing through the archives in the past few months. I have a preserving question.
+
+[16:48] I'm trying to replicate this Bulgarian pumpkin preserve that I had once when visiting friends uh in the Peace Corps in Bulgaria. This woman made a preserve that kept the shape uh that the slices of pumpkin have, but were soft and giving when you bite into them. They were preserved in sugar syrup. When I asked her how she did this, she said she had cured them in lime, pickling lime. Uh at the time I had no idea what she meant by this, but from listening to your show, I've gathered that she used pickling lime or some variation of that product.
+
+[17:14] I bought some pickling lime uh on Amazon and attempted it. The flavor was good, but the texture of mine was too crunchy. I soaked the pumpkin overnight in a fairly concentrated solution of lime. Two questions. One, if I shorten the soap time and dilute the solution, do you think it will get me closer to the desired texture?
+
+[17:30] And two, how long will this last? Even though I'm storing it in the fridge, I'm worried about being hazardous because of the low pH. I'm assuming you mean the high pH. You mean it's not acid enough, is what I'm assuming you're saying. My last batch seemed to last for over a month without problems, but am I playing with fire?
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+[17:44] Would adding citric acid to it change the flavor too much. Thanks and uh keep up the good work, uh Joe Anchovich. Now, a couple of things here. Um on the lime, what you want to do, first of all, for those of you that don't know, or you know, I don't know, whatever pickling lime uh is uh calcium hydroxide. Uh and you you can't really use uh like a lower uh you know lower concentration of it because pickling lime, calcium hydroxide is not very soluble in water at all.
+
+[18:13] In fact, when you buy lime paste uh Thai style, you buy this like lime paste, you just add it to water, you shake it, and you let all the stuff settle out, and what you're left with is a saturated lime solution, which is typically what you use. Now, when you are doing pickles, here's what's happening. So when you're doing um nystamization with this stuff, you're not only using you're using the calcium, you're using uh the fact that it's basic, right? That it's alkaline, has a high pH. Uh, and that's helping uh to mess with the uh this the you know the outside of the corn and allowing it to grind easier and a lot of other awesome effects.
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+[18:49] Just you know, go on the blog, it's still there and look up nyxtimalization. The when you're using it for firming things, you're not really using the um basicity so much. I mean, you you are in in one sense, because if you're gonna cook something, like if you were gonna cook the pumpkin uh after you've done it, the uh the basic uh the alkaline uh will will help it to stay uh the exact opposite, I guess. That's the exact opposite. Uh erase the last, just ignore the last couple of sentences I said.
+
+[19:18] But uh what you're looking for when you're cooking for firming things is the um is you're looking for the uh calcium, right? So when you the calcium in the calcium hydroxide will uh help crosslink the uh pectins and create a firmer thing and so that's how you know um that's how like a lot of the chefs do these kind of what they say ossified vegetables or you know we used to do all the time at the French culinary bananas that were soaked in uh in pickling uh lime and calcium hydroxide and they stay firm and so you can do bananas and you can sit there and you can cook them and they don't break you could like you could brutalize them and they don't break as opposed to normal bananas when you when you're you know making like a foster or something they fall apart. Now here's the issue uh this is pickling limes you know classically used in western preps for pickles and things like cucumbers uh because it firms up the cucumbers and uh you know you should still also by the way when you're doing uh you know cucumbers cut off the blossom and in case there's that you know the enzymes in there can cause softening but anyway so uh pickling lime uh causes uh the the calcium in there causes it to firm up now you can use other things like uh you can use uh you can use um uh calcium chloride and stuff like that as well but pickling lime classic now what you want to do though is uh soak it in water anytime you do a pickle uh and you firm the pickle with uh lime you first soak it in the lime solution and I don't think you need to soak it as long as you're soaking it frankly uh you have to soak it in water because you want to remove all the excess calcium hydroxide uh from the thing you don't want it to stay in there for a number of reasons one it's gonna keep getting harder the texture is gonna change it's gonna get weird I've had that happen I soaked cucumbers in it overnight once cut cucumbers in it overnight, they were gross, gross. Also, because it's alkaline, you're gonna be shifting. If you're making a pickle with vinegar, you can possibly shift the pH into a a region that's unsafe um and you know, because it's it's it's neutralizing some of the effects of the acidity, right?
+
+[21:15] So what they do typically is they'll soak the pickles in pure, they'll rinse them, then they'll soak them in pure water for a couple of hours, and then they'll do that soak like once, twice, three times sometimes to make sure that they've leached out all the excess calcium. And then you can go by uh go do your normal pickle recipe and you will have um you will have you know kept that um you will have kept it uh you know what was the word about firm without going too firm of being another thing people do is they do uh sometimes a light heat process on it to kill uh bacteria and to denature enzymes that might cause softening. And uh the pickle people, like you know, it recommends something in the range of 180 Fahrenheit. Uh I don't know, that's for cucumbers. Uh I don't know uh, and they keep it there for about like a like like 30 minutes or something.
+
+[22:04] I don't know what that's gonna do on pumpkin, whether pumpkin can withstand those kind of temperatures, because that's very close to the temperatures where the pectin starts breaking down up at like 185, something like that. But maybe a little lime in combination with that will work for you. Now that as to the other side, uh what's gonna grow in it, uh, you know, I need to see the recipe. Uh you know, I would be slightly nervous about um uh about keeping the stuff in there it without it having uh like some acidity uh to keep it low enough for for botulism to to not grow, because there's there's two things you gotta worry about, right? Is like is is botulism gonna grow in the uh actual liquid of the pickling thing.
+
+[22:46] Now, for instance, like if you have a very high sugar content, the the water activity is gonna be extremely low. If the water activity is extremely low, then no botulism can grow, it's not a problem. Uh if somehow the the pumpkin uh has enough uh syrup suffused into it such that it's water activity is low enough, then no botulism will grow in it. However, there are many situations where the pickling liquid itself does not support the growth of uh pathogens like botulism, but the inside of the product does. So there was a case where someone made um eggs, pickled eggs, in 1997, I think.
+
+[23:18] I looked it up on the CDC website, and they did uh pickled eggs, and the the solution itself um didn't uh support uh the growth of botulism uh but or I mean it I don't think it did, but the inside of the egg yolk uh was not at a point where it it was preventing botulism growth. And they had done the classic thing where you prick it with a toothpick to get the stuff to go in, but they hadn't gotten enough penetration of the vinegar apparently, or it wasn't strong enough, typical beet pickled egg, and there was a boatload of botulism uh toxin on the inside of the egg yolk, and it didn't kill the guy though. But anyway, so uh if you want, send us the actual recipe, and I could try to see whether it's safe or I could pass it off to a food safety expert and see whether they know where the actual recipe that you have is safe. We see the procedures, but that's how you use the pickling line. What do you think?
+
+[24:04] Good? Yeah, uh good. Also, do you really want citric acid as the flavor? I mean, it depends on the pickle. Like most pickl, I don't think of most pickles have as having kind of a citric flavor.
+
+[24:14] I associates them either with lactic flavor on a natural fermentation, like a lactic acid bacteria, or with a vinegar. I haven't had any pickles that are done solely with uh citric acid. Well, I guess like like preserved lemons, I guess you could kind of think of as a fermentation that's done in a salt solution, which citric acid is the preventative. I don't know. Interesting.
+
+[24:35] Um Hey Bushwick crew, I have a cocktail issue that I was hoping you could help me with. Uh this is from Brandon Johnson in Charlotte, North Carolina. Uh, what is the general shelf life of clarified lime juice? I am trying to pre-batch gin and tonics from my wedding in corny kegs, and I'm wondering how long in advance I can make it without compromising the quality. Well, ascorbic acid helped me.
+
+[24:55] I was also considering rapid infusing the gin with lime zest to replace the clarified juice, but that doesn't seem ideal. Any other tips or warnings on pre-batch kegging gin and tonics would be much appreciated. Brandon Johnson, Charlotte, North Carolina. Alright, listen. Listen, listen.
+
+[25:11] Lime juice doesn't last. Lime juice, it does not last. It lasts not at all. Like one day. Well, let me let me give you first of all, congratulations on the on the wedding.
+
+[25:21] And as a married man myself, uh, let me say this. Uh your uh spouse to be is not gonna be overly psyched if you're clarifying a bunch of lime juice the day before your wedding, right? Because honestly, you could probably use less yesterday's clarity lime today, right? But like they're not gonna be happy. I know this because the day before my wedding, I was welding the cake stand that we use for the cake the day before the wedding, and like I was all covered in filth, and this is not this is not ideal.
+
+[25:50] You know what I mean? Like uh, but uh another way to go, and I would start testing now. I don't know how long you have, is you know, lime juice goes through kind of instead of doing a straight old school gin and tonic with fresh lime flavor, you might want to consider doing kind of a cordial. And I think Tony uh Canollaro in his book has his lime cordial recipe. And so if you want it, then it's gonna be like a much better version of like a rose's lime juice, but that stuff has already gone through an aging procedure, and so it is what it is.
+
+[26:20] It's not the taste of fresh lime, but it is a good taste of lime, right? And you might find that you like it. And there's also um some tonic recipes out there, most notably the um the kind of uh you know, Morgenthaler style, Portland style uh tonics uh that have a kind of a cordial y flavor in them if you if you follow their syrup recipes. And you go that way. I would not recommend, however, using uh unless you have like a good centrifuge thing using the bark because that is gonna foam.
+
+[26:51] Uh when I made uh when I made uh quinine syrup using actual conchona bark, uh the there's a lot more bubble holding capacity in the simple syrup than there was when I used quinine sulfate USP as the uh base for the tonic, right? And if you're gonna keg these things and pump them out, you're gonna have some serious, serious foaming problems, right? And I think I said this before, it's like you know, like most times when people are kegging kegging uh cocktails and putting them out, they lose a bul a bunch of carbonation for of a variety of reasons. But before I get on that, let's finish off on the I'll get on that in a sec. Before we do that, let's get back on the on the lime for a second.
+
+[27:28] So it seems to me here are your choices. One, you use something that you have someone else clarify the lime juice for you the day of, like a buddy, right? Then you have the cocktail on the keg and it has everything but the lime juice, and then someone just pours a little bit of clarified lime juice in at the very end. This is how we do it at the bar, by the way. We don't do it in kegs, obviously, we do it in bottles, but that's how the bar handles it.
+
+[27:51] So the gin and tonic without the lime lasts almost indefinitely, right? If it's kept properly, uh, it's carbonated uh and nothing in it breaks down. The sugar is fine, the you know, quinine's fine, the gin is fine, the water's fine, and it just rides. Um, then um you just add a little clarity at the end, and if you have someone that's willing to make it for you, like the day of, then you know, that's good. And it doesn't take that much lime, especially if you're on the drier side, right?
+
+[28:14] Um, but then you have to trust your catering people to like pour it in properly, etc. etc. Uh, but it's a way one way to go. Uh another way to go is to do the cordial thing, like I said, like like construct a tonic recipe that has more of a lime cordial flavor instead of a fresh lime flavor, and then just put a wedge of lime with the actual drink such that people can squeeze fresh lime into the cordial flavor and get that brightness that you get from fresh lime. That's a very good solution.
+
+[28:43] By the way, the lime thing, you know how like limes like you know how uh like limes are ridiculously expensive now? Hopefully, your wedding is after May. I'm being told that the lime market's gonna kind of untighten a little bit after May when the next kind of crop comes in. You know, lime I was reading that lime uh a tractor trailer of limes is now over a hundred thousand dollars, like in Mexico, worth over a hundred thousand dollars in Mexico, so that's why like lime trucks are you know, people are like, you know, have armed escorts with their lime trucks now. Freaky.
+
+[29:10] Anyway, uh and the limes we're getting now just so crappy, so crappy, so crappy. Anyway, um, where was I? So uh yeah, so hopefully you're getting married after the lime crunch is over. Um so then uh those are the first two choices. The last choice, and now I know you're not gonna like this probably, but hear me out, is to make uh uh uh lime acid, right?
+
+[29:32] And lime acid, so lime juice is roughly this gives you just a like a uh you know rough gauge. Lime juice is roughly 6% acidity. Of that six percent acidity, it is roughly uh uh four percent, so four grams uh out of uh every hundred grams of it uh are uh citric acid and two grams of it are malic acid, right? Citric and malic. Like that's it.
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+[29:58] Now that makes kind of a lime soda acidity. It's nice. And you and some people don't add the malic, but they're kind of dufoids because the the thing about malic acid, aside from the fact that it tastes different from citric acid, and if you don't have the malloc, it doesn't taste like lime, is that malic acid has a different uh uh attack and decay profile from citric acid. So the acidity from citric acid is present very quickly and uh and fades fairly quickly. The acidity from malic acid uh hits a little bit later and lingers longer.
+
+[30:25] So you to really get anything like the taste of lime, a profile of lime and an acid, you need that blend. Two part citric to one part uh mallet, six percent solution pours just like uh lime juice. A little, it's a little more acidic, but it's in that range. It pours similar to lime juice. Now, if you really want this sucker to taste authentic without actually having any lime in it, you need to buy, and it's not expensive, but you know, a lifetime supply doesn't cost that much because you only need a tiny tiny bit, is succinic acid.
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+[30:53] Uh S U C C I can't spell out loud. Succinic acid. And succinic acid taste it on its own, tastes like you like bit into your tongue of bloody, nasty, bitter, metallic, horrible. But a couple of grains, it's a tiny bit, like just minute minute uh amounts of succinic acid into this acid blend. And I've done these taste tests time and time again.
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+[31:14] Minute amounts of that added to it will increase the authenticity of a straight acid blend in terms of its lime flavor, like inordinately. And again, those acids, which except for the succinic acid, which you have to source at a chemical supply house like Spectrum, make sure you get USP, which is you know the grade that is, you know, the pharmaceutical grade stuff. Um, um you know, with the exception of that, you can get the rest of the stuff at a homebrew shop. And then that again can be supplemented with a lime wedge and it'll last forever. Uh, ascorbic acid is not gonna help.
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+[31:43] I think you asked about this, I have to remember back. Uh it's not gonna help uh keep the lime juice from lasting for longer. So I either say, have a buddy make it go fresh, go cordial with a lime wedge as a garnish, or do the acids and uh let it ride. When you're going to keg, however, here's the key with kegging. Um cocktails foam a lot more than beer and a lot more than soda.
+
+[32:06] Why? First of all, alcohol, alcoholic products foam a lot more than uh non-alcoholic products do because alcohol lowers the surface tension and increases the viscosity of the liquids, which causes boatloads of foaming. What you want to do, uh so that's a problem, and gin and tonics are typically higher in alcohol and have more carbonation in them than something like a beer. So a beer, right, like a setup that will cause, you know, a minor amount of foaming on a beer will cause a huge amount of foaming on a cocktail because the cocktail has more CO2 in it, and a cocktail uh has uh more alcohol in it. So you're shafted two times right there.
+
+[32:47] Uh so foaming is really going to be an issue. You're gonna need to get your cocktail as cold as is humanly possible, right? And you're gonna want to make sure that it's completely and utterly clear that there's nothing in it that's going to cause any sort of foaming at all, which is why I don't recommend using uh like actual kinchona bark in this situation, because I think it's gonna cause a lot of foaming on you. When you are uh dispensing out of the corny keg, I'm assuming you have a coal plate in ice, you're gonna want to go through two separate circuits of the cold plate. For those of you who don't know what I'm talking about, cold plate is a length of stainless steel tube that is cast into a block of aluminum that's kept in ice.
+
+[33:24] And that's how things are chilled down at bars. You go from a like a room temperature, uh, like just sticking the keg in ice water is not going to be good enough. But you stick the keg in uh, you know, you you pass it through this aluminum tube, it's in ice, and you can get it down. The problem is cold plate circuits aren't long enough to uh get the product as cold, they don't have as big a delta C temperature drop as you want. So, you what you want to do, delta T rather, what you want to do is put it through two circuits that also gives you more room because remember, cocktails are going to be at a higher pressure than beer is because they have more CO2 in them, right?
+
+[33:57] And so, because of that, they need a longer space with more drag to slow down as they come out so that you're not spraying out of the end of your gun. So, two circuits, it's gonna give you a longer line, which is gonna give you colder, and it's also going to uh give you uh kind of less foaming on the outside. You also need to get something better than a picnic tap. You need to get a pre-mix valve, which is ideal, or the what's called a beer gun valve from CM Becker, that's just called a squeeze valve. Those are obtainable, not as good as an actual pre-mix valve.
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+[34:26] Uh, but those two things together will help. And you if you salt your ice, you want to measure the temperature. Don't get it so cold that you freeze out the stuff, but you can get it like below zero by salting your ice and measuring the temperature at the cold plate and getting it right. But make sure you get a buddy to do that because do not be measuring the temperature of your cold plate on your wedding. But should we take a break?
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+[34:48] Sure. Let's take a commercial break. Right back with cooking issues. It's not really a commercial break though. The International Culinary Center is a proud sponsor of the Heritage Radio Network.org.
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+[35:49] The ICC with locations in New York and California provide cutting edge education to future chefs, restaurateurs, and wine professionals. We're proud to claim Dan Barber, Bobby Flay, and David Chang among our honored alumni. This is Dorothy Cann Hamilton from Chef's Story. Check out our ICC website at International Culinary Center.com. And oh welcome back.
+
+[36:14] Um okay, so we have a question in. Let me scroll down to it. Uh Deer Cooking Issues Posse. Uh just got back from Tokyo and had some great food. I want to go back to Tokyo.
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+[36:28] Don't you? Sure. Sure. Where would you like if you were gonna go back to one of the places we've gone to where would it be? Um I guess the only one I went to with you is Tokyo.
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+[36:39] No, we went to London, we went to I later for London. We went we went on that event, remember? Oh, the other one, yeah. Um so I guess it's just London or Tokyo. So or like, you know, a lot of places, New Orleans.
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+[36:52] No. Uh speaking of which, uh going up to Williams to do a talk tomorrow, right? Yes. Doing a talk tomorrow and on Thursday. Uh talking to the cooking and science class up there.
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+[37:05] Trying to figure out what we're gonna do, but if you happen to be in the uh area of the Williams College, uh we will be there uh talking, doing stuff, cooking stuff, doing things, cooking issues. Um just got back from Tokyo, had some great food. Went to the Skiji fish market on the day they were closed. Oh, that sucks, huh? Sakiji was uh uh look, Matt.
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+[37:26] I hate to I hate to do this to you, but man, Sukiji is awesome. Awesome. Mark Ladner was uh having a good time at Sakiji too. A lot of styrofoam, though. Amazing amount of styrofoam.
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+[37:35] Uh even you like you enjoyed Tsakiji, right, Sus? Yeah. Crazy fish. Uh amazing market, just amazing. Um went to Sakichi Fish Market on the day they were closed.
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+[37:43] Also went to an Ito-style sushi bar that has been in business for 147 years and is still in the same family. Effing amazing. Uh anyway, I love me some ramen and I've made several attempts to make it from scratch. I am un un I uh I am unable to get the great texture you get with the real stuff. And I'm wondering if you had any suggestions of good ramen cookbooks and or websites.
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+[38:02] When I searched the webs, I found a bunch of books about uses for instant ramen, but I'm looking for the real deal. I have Chang's book, and while this broth is great, uh its noodles leave something to be desired. No disrespect to the man. I would also like to explore more styles of broth. Tokyo Hokkaido.
+
+[38:17] Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Matt. Okay. Uh Matt, first of all, uh I'm I don't know why I didn't do this. I went on the internet.
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+[38:25] I didn't go get my my book to see what uh noodle recipe is in the book. But they've done a lot of work since the book uh on um consway, right? So the the the the trick with with those kind of ramen noodles, which uh, you know, the good ones are a subset of uh alkaline noodles, is consway. Consui is, you know, the the alkaline um the alkaline salt mix that you can get, or you could use other alkaline things as well to get the same um kind of effect. So, you know, McGee uh wrote an article in the New York Times uh back when he was still doing the Curious Cook column, you know, a couple of years back on taking baking soda, which is not strong enough, that's sodium bicarbonate, uh, which is not strong enough to really make a kind of good uh alkaline kind of consui thing.
+
+[39:11] Uh and so some of the recipes on on the lines use the the baking soda, which is kind of you know not useful, or they make like an egg pasta, which is also not the same. Uh and uh he takes and makes uh uh bakes the bicarbonate in an oven. He has specs for it, and I forget what they are, thereby turning it into sodium carbonate, which is uh relatively much more basic and can be used to make a uh a consue uh uh uh or to use make an alkaline noodle. So now what happens when you're adding the base to the noodle, uh, you know, the alkaline uh substance to the to the flour, is that it's gonna turn yellow, and the the turning yellow isn't kind of what you care about, although you know, for people that eat yellow alkaline noodles, and then that's what they're called, Y A N yellow alkaline noodles, and there's a bunch of papers on the internet about it uh you know in the scholarly literature. Um the yellow is an indication of quality, but the yellow isn't really what's the most important thing.
+
+[40:08] The most important thing about it is the textural changes because uh switching the pH of the dough radically affects the way the gluten works in it, right? So uh by shifting the pH into the more alkaline range, you're uh making the gluten much more elastic. And that's really what you're looking for in uh in the ramen, right? You need to keep that gluten nice and elastic and bouncy because you're gonna be serving the noodle in a hot broth and so it can get overcooked almost instantly, right? I mean, that's what everyone says.
+
+[40:41] You have to slurp up those noodles as fast as you can uh because otherwise the noodle's gonna go uh mushy on you. Uh and you want it bouncy and springy. So the conway is gonna be the thing. So I don't know if that's the the problem you were having is uh you know the the lack of the consue. Things like egg aren't gonna help you out with that as much.
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+[40:57] I think you have to use the alkaline noodle. Any good uh like Chinese grocery will have uh con sue uh it's labeled a bunch of different things, but you can see it. It's uh you know, it's got the it comes as a water already made. Uh and you know, uh I think Kenji Alt Lopez posts a did he know he doesn't post the recipe because he says that all of his ramen attempts have sucked making ramen noodles. I think he goes a lot into the broths and stuff, but he says that the noodles that he's made uh uh he doesn't like them.
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+[41:23] Anyway, um I don't have any good uh information because I've never made uh the ramen style ones myself on the actual technique of making the noodles. So it's not like other noodle styles that I've worked on, like you know, the uh pulled noodles that you that you know, or the soba cutting, which I have worked on, I could talk more about. So I don't really know much about the physical production of the noodles, but in my kind of wrong opinion, I I mean I think the the recipe the recipe is gonna be much more important. Let's like, for instance, on soba, right? Like good cutting is amazing, but the actual hard part isn't, I mean, the cutting is hard to get it right and to make it nice, but really the important part of getting sober right is getting the moisture, getting the dough texture right by manipulating the dough such that the moisture and the texture come together at the same time to create that kind of perfect soba dough.
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+[42:18] So then even if you're a complete dill weed and your knife skills suck and your noodles are ugly and they don't uh aren't the right shape, they will still be delicious because you've gotten the dough right. So the actual fabrication of it isn't necessarily as important as getting the texture of the dough right. But since I haven't made a lot of ramen myself, I can't really help you there, just other than to say that you're gonna want to go into uh consui into yellow alkaline noodles. And you can look that up and and I'm sure you'll be able to find lots of recipes that uh tell you how to use it. I will say this other thing.
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+[42:52] Everyone hates on the fried noodles, but I like I'm not saying they're the same, they're not authentic, whatever, but I actually happen to like noodles that have been like defridrated or whatever they call it. Do you like those things? Styles, you know, the noodles like instant noodles, you like them or no? Mm-hmm. I think I like them.
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+[43:07] I'm they're not the same. I'm not saying that they're they're as good or anything like that, but I think they have their place, and everyone hates on them all the time. All the time. I'm gonna work on it. I uh I don't have any time right now, but when I get a minute's time, I'm gonna work on some high-end like fried dehydrated noodles, like not like BS fried dehydrated noodles that you get in the ramen packets.
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+[43:28] But uh I'm gonna I'm gonna work on the I guarantee you there's a really good application for it. I'm gonna I'll be back on that at some point. Uh okay. Um I would also like to explore oh, also I would also like to explore more styles of broth, Tokyo Hokkaido. Any suggestions would be gra greatly appreciated.
+
+[43:44] Uh Kenji Alt Lopez on the Sirius Eats has like 18 or 19 posts on different ramen styles and like a very lengthy kind of uh pork, you know, uh uh one, you know, from the South uh listing, and also some links to some other websites that are specifically about Ram and different styles. So rather than kind of list that stuff out now, I would just go to the Serious Eats and look up Kenji's posts on ramen. Because the other thing good thing about the post that Kenji's uh doing on the on the thing is that um, you know, kind of he kind of lays out what all his assumptions are and kind of what he likes and what he doesn't like. Uh and so you know, you can kind of tell whether, you know, whether or not you agree or disagree, which is always a good thing to do in recipes. If people let you know ahead of time kind of what your predilections are, like I tell you what I think a good French fry is, then you know which one of my instructions are good or bad based on what I'm aiming at, right?
+
+[44:42] Because there's no there's no perfect ramen, there's no perfect anything. There is what I am shooting for or what you want to have, and then how good are you at achieving that goal, right? That's really all there is. Anyway, uh hopefully uh that helps. So uh a little while ago, uh a couple weeks ago, I asked for people to write in uh their worst kind of Yelp uh Yelp situations.
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+[45:08] And uh I got a lot of uh people who were hating on the on the on the Yelp. Um but here's what here's how how it happened. I was looking up uh a restaurant that you know uh some friends of mine had, and this is the this is the thing that pissed me off. And here's a particular thing that pisses me off. By the way, I think Yelp is extremely useful, right?
+
+[45:28] I think like I uh don't worry, it's Saz is where I'm gonna go. I'm gonna talk like two minutes on it. So, like, like I think Yelp is extremely uh kind of useful uh for certain things and helpful and you know, uh but here's the kind of thing that that that I wish that there was some sort of like uh something for people that owned restaurants where they could go and and bitch out specific Yelp users. Listen to this Yelp review from February of this year uh uh of a restaurant. The burger was phenomenal, right?
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+[45:59] Uh but the ambiance and the staff are just too hipster for my flavor. Get this. Staff was friendly and was willing to go above and beyond to accommodate my friends' kosher dietary limitations. I will give this place another try for the bar scene, and we'll definitely come back for the burger and possibly try some of the other dishes. Alright.
+
+[46:21] So, burger phenomenal. Staff was friendly, willing to go above and beyond to accommodate the friends' uh dietary limitations, but two hipster, so I I forget it was either two or like two or three stars. It's ridiculous. This is what is wrong with the world. Like some moron can go and admit that this restaurant had was like bending over backwards to help them out, and then they knock them on something like that.
+
+[46:46] Um so I got a lot of people like like I say, straight up hate it hating on on the Yelp. In fact, there's uh someone sent me uh a website that was like uh what was it? It's called uh spelled out fuelpertumbler.com. I don't think they update that uh anymore. Uh but a bunch of people have sent me in really, really crappy, uh really, really crappy Yelp reviews.
+
+[47:10] But I think you know, people who are in the business, like we need to get over the complete hatred of the Yelp because it you know, it's important for the customers to have some sort of venue to go do this thing. There's gotta be some better way for us to not let it like because you know, you read a bad Yelp about your place and it kind of rips your heart out. I think people don't really understand the Yelp these Yelpers who are kind of sitting around in their chonis and typing things. I don't really think that they understand that they are uh like kind of hurting real people. First of all, that they're actually like hurting businesses and that they're hurting real live people.
+
+[47:48] So I'm gonna think more on this and see whether I can come up with an actual decent thesis uh on the Yelp that that makes any sense. But I I welcome more kind of feedback on the Twitter on Yelp, and we'll talk more about it next week on cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio.
+
+[48:25] You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Hello, do it yourself. Ever thought about gardening? If you can build that window box, you can build a raised bed in your backyard. Bonnie veggie and herb plants in raised beds make a fast weekend project with a big payback. Fresh, grow them yourself tomatoes and peppers, kale, basil, and thyme, and so much more.
+
+[0:21] Bonnie plants are healthy and strong and help jumpstart your garden. So get growing. Plans and how-tos at BonniePlants.com. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more.
+
+[0:48] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave On, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from Robertus Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn! Every Tuesday from roughly 12 to roughly 1245. Joined as usual by Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. How you doing, Stas?
+
+[1:02] Good. Yeah? Mm-hmm. Yeah. Got Jack in the booth today.
+
+[1:05] Hey. Good old fashioned, good old-fashioned uh cooking issues. Last week my tires blew out in my car. For real? Yeah, that's actually why I wasn't here.
+
+[1:13] For real, your tires blew out. For real. Like while you were driving? Yeah, I was kind of flat, two of them, and I was like, let me drive to the gas station and fill them up, and then you know. Was it like uh was it like kaplow?
+
+[1:25] Or was it kind of yeah. Well, did were you able to keep control of the car? Yeah, I I I made it into a repair shop and got it replaced. Yeah, I had a little bit of a car corridor today. My uh old school, like you don't think of this happening anymore with uh your car, but battery dead.
+
+[1:41] Battery dead. Is that way you're late? Dead. Yeah. We're I was going to work on the puffing gun, which we'll talk about in a minute, but the battery was completely uh muerto.
+
+[1:50] And so I haven't had to have a jump since I was in like high school, you know? Uh, but yeah, it works. Turns out I still know how to jumpstart a car. Uh also joined in the studio today. Emma Boast.
+
+[2:05] Emma Boast from the Museum of Food and Drink. Hey, what's uh so what's your title there at the museum? I am the program director, so I work with uh Peter, who's the executive director of MoFed and uh a whole slew of amazing volunteers. Yeah, yeah, nice. So uh so Emma's here today.
+
+[2:20] Uh actually I forced her to come on because uh I'm a little bit late because what we're doing this morning, as some of you might know, uh last summer we uh got a kick we had did a Kickstarter and uh we paid for this uh puffing gun. Now puffing gun is uh an ex explosive puffing device that uh was used to make breakfast cereals, one of the big I like to call it the big three of the initial breakfast cereals, right? So you your initial big three were uh your flaking rollers, right? Three, right? No, two, three.
+
+[2:53] Well, I guess you had your your crumbled, your granula kind of granola-esque cereals. Right, that's the or that's the or cereal, right? The or cereal, and uh by the way, remember, started by uh kind of uh religious uh health zealots. That's a fair term. Zealots, yeah.
+
+[3:11] Uh so that meant to kind of taste uh bad and be dry and just kind of you know one of the original cereals names was uh Pablum. Pablum. I've got a caller. Oh, caller. Well, we'll get back to the puffing gun in a minute.
+
+[3:24] Caller, you're on the air. Hey David and crew, how y'all doing? Doing all right. Howdy. Very well.
+
+[3:29] Cool. I had uh uh two part questions. Um one of them was I had recently seen a video that Jose Andres had done, and he had made a mimosa with Clementine air, he said. And he did it with uh soylectin. Yeah, he loves that stuff.
+
+[3:44] Yeah, and uh I tried to do it at home and I just modified it by doing it with blood orange. Right. But since we didn't have any fresh blood oranges I used, uh just regular um like it was it was already pastures. I got it from Whole Foods, but it was blood orange juice, and for some reason I just couldn't make uh the air the same way that he does it ended up being real goopy. Yeah, what was he what was he using?
+
+[4:10] Uh well give me give me his whole technique because I haven't seen the video. Yeah, it was uh he was making kava and then he used fresh squeezed uh clementine juice, and I don't know if that's why one of the effects that mine didn't work at all. Yeah, I mean what was he what he what what was the procedure with the soy lessine? He was making mimosas. No, what was the procedure with the soy lecithin?
+
+[4:30] So he used the immersion uh not the immersion circuit the uh like a stick blender? Yes, the stick blender. Right. And uh he just put like about a spoonful or so of uh soy lectin inside of the uh clementine juice and just made like an air. Right.
+
+[4:46] Like an air out of the clementine juice. Okay, so put that on top of it. And what did and uh and he was using presumably the powdered stuff, right? Because there's also the granular stuff and there's the powder stuff. Powder stuff much better.
+
+[4:57] Hopefully you had the powder stuff. Uh okay. So you can add almost any kind of uh kind of uh you know he he added no extra whipping agent, right? Just the uh he added just the soy lecithin to uh to for the for the bubbling effect, right? No, no whipping agent.
+
+[5:14] All right. Yeah, yeah, just that. And and you've had luck using this uh the stick blender technique in the past, or do you need some pointers on the stick blender technique in general? I mean, probably a new techniques altogether because I definitely just tried it bad. Like I I just tried to attempt it on a brunch and it was it was not as a year just off of looking.
+
+[5:33] It didn't look as hard as it wasn't clearly was. Right, okay. So there's a trick. It's possible. I'm not a huge fan.
+
+[5:44] I'm not I've never I've never like been like a soy uh less than guy. But what you should do is practice on something that foams naturally. Like I was wondering if you've used this kind of technique in the past, like carrot juice is a natural foamer. You don't need to do anything to it at all. Just use carrot juice, you know, juice carrots and and do it.
+
+[6:02] But the trick with uh with any of those kind of uh foam ups uh with a stick blender is you want to uh have not like you you like a uh you know a s qu small quantity in the bottom of a container, stick the stick blender in it, and then you go on a and here's the key that I don't know whether they tell you about in the video or not, but you need to turn the entire thing at an angle such that a portion of the stick blender's blades come out of the liquid on every revolution. And then when you're holding it at that angle, you turn it on high, and as it flips up and out of the thing, it's gonna be whipping air and creating a froth that will rise above the surface. So that's why when they're doing that technique, you'll see them all the time, and it's not just because they want to look jaunty, they need to have that that container. I usually do it in quartz or whatever, on on uh on uh an angle, usually pretty steep, like 45 or better, so that the blades can whip in and out. But you did that or no?
+
+[7:02] No, definitely didn't do that. I just held it directly in there. Almost like a reverse blender as it usually is, you know. So I definitely didn't get any air into it. Right.
+
+[7:11] So the trick with with any of those foam things is he's adding a little bit of the soy less than to stabilize the bubbles a little bit. You're praying that there's a kind of enough uh solids in the in the in the juice to kind of hold those bubbles once they're formed with with with that. And then you just tilt it at an angle. You give it a try. Carrot juice is a good one to do it with.
+
+[7:30] Tills it at an angle and you hold it and it'll it'll make like a froth on the top. And then you pull out the stick blender and I'm sure you saw this part on the thing is he then they take a spoon usually and they harvest the stuff off the top of the liquid and then you can do that a bunch because there's extra stuff in there before it's really depleted of the surface act the stuff needed to make a foam. So they'll sit there and they'll just rehit it almost to order and then harvest each time the it'll settle down after a while and then you can just zit zitz zit hit it again. But if you look if you look at the video I'm pretty sure you'll see uh him holding that thing at an angle. Okay.
+
+[8:06] Yeah I'll definitely check that out I'm kind of surprised though that they didn't uh I'm kind of surprised didn't uh uh mention that 'cause it's kind of key aspect of the technique. The you know other things you might want to try um is uh it be but it depends. If like so those kinds of foams are usually extremely airy like extremely airy right if you want something a little bit uh denser um a methyl cell F50 uh is really cool that makes more of like a shaving cream or a Guinness y kind of head and you're gonna want to use like 0.8% so like eight grams per liter and then you you blend that in in like a in a blender to hydrate it. Let it hydrate for a long time. Sometimes it takes a while to hydrate.
+
+[8:51] And then you can whip that thing in a kitchen aid and it and it foams up. Now you need to have enough solids to get it to work right. So if you don't, you can add some um maltodextrin, uh, you know, not like a crazy one, like enzorbit, just something like a bulking agent or uh or a whipping agent like that. You can get the like an orange juice to to come up into like almost like a shaving cream, but it'll be a little bit denser than uh but much more persistent than the one that you were um dealing with with there. You know, what like a good one for that would be actually do they make pureees of that?
+
+[9:23] They do make purees of that, but I don't know how dense they are. You need a little bit of pect and a little bit of structure in uh in the with the methyl cell to get it to work. Oh, well. And then I mean that's that's great. I'll definitely try that for next time.
+
+[9:36] And the other one that I had, the other question was I am trying to make a healthier, I guess, ice cream for my parents. They I really have a sweet tooth, obviously. And uh the one that I was trying to make was out of a coconut milk. Right. Instead.
+
+[9:52] And the issue that I had is everything flavor-wise came up comes up good, but when I put it inside the fridge, it gets really hard. And I'm trying to see whatever commercial techniques because any regular uh ice cream you put inside there will stay uh still airy and fluffy, and I don't know if it's a combination of gums that it should put in there. Or what I mean, it's it's just coconut water substituting I'm sorry, coconut milk substituting traditional milk or whipping milk. Right. But so but it's substituting for both the cream and the milk, right?
+
+[10:24] Yeah. Right. So a couple of things. Probably your your fat concentration is probably a little low. Uh and um, but you know, you can obviously sorbet's work, right?
+
+[10:34] So the other thing is probably your sugar level might be a little bit low. Is it is it is it a lot less sweet than uh typical ice cream? Uh I would say per quart uh uh I put about a cup typically as a sweetener and sugar. Now I have to do some math here. Uh so like I I can't I can't think of it in terms of see quarter cup.
+
+[10:56] A cup well weighs roughly eight ounces, and so a quart is four. So four sorry, I'm doing some stuff in my head, right? So you're so you're saying you're putting in eight ounces of uh sugar into um thirty-two ounces of product. That gives you a total weight of forty and eight. Yeah, so that's like sixteen.
+
+[11:22] That should be sweet enough, right? Right? That ta it tastes sweet enough then, right? Yeah. Huh.
+
+[11:27] Because usually like overly solid things are due and like textural problems like that are due to um lack of sugar, uh or you know, especially if it's good when it's soft, it means it's free. It's you know you say it's good when it's soft, right? Yeah, yeah. Definitely taste wise before I I make it hard, it tastes great. Yeah, but in other words, when you initially churn it before you before it turns hard, that it it tastes fine when it's before it's been aged, right?
+
+[11:55] Exactly, yes. Yeah. Okay. So t typically o overly hard on storage is going to be uh just uh it's get getting too solid and you control the solids by controlling the meltdown rate, and you control the meltdown rate by how much sugar is in it. So I mean um I I guess it's hard for me to do the numbers on the fly.
+
+[12:16] Uh I got to I have to go back and remember exactly what my target bricks for is for a sorbet. You want to treat it like a sorbet basically. Uh even though it has the addition of the 'cause it's easier to calculate. Uh that's how I calculate. I do my s all my sorbets with coconut milk.
+
+[12:30] Um but uh I usually they're fairly sweet, right? So I tend to use coconut cream because it's got uh sugar in it, and I it's so easy for me. Like I can just buy like a package of puree and then like a package of coconut uh I mean a can of coconut cream. I know this sounds like real, like like I'm not working, but it you know, but it's easy for me because I do it at home for the kids and uh mix them together and it works fantastically well. Um I think may I just have to recalculate.
+
+[13:00] Do the recalculation on the sugar uh and go uh look up because I don't have it off the top of my head, like the uh target bricks for like a sorbet. Ignore the fat content of the um the fat content of the coconut milk to start with because it's not gonna hurt it's not gonna hurt you in terms of your calculations, and figure out a target bricks for it and then see whether or not you're going a little bit too low on the sugar. Uh, because did it taste kind of less sweet than normal? Good but less sweet than normal. No, I mean it tastes like everything was good.
+
+[13:31] It's usually more so, like you said, just in the age and it gets too hard inside the fridge, or nothing for it as a uh commercialized kind of now. Yeah. And it will still go soft. But I mean you could add some whipping agents to it to try and uh increase the uh increase the air. Um commercial coconut milk already has some uh usual usually has some some product in it to stop it from breaking because regular coconut milk will break when you heat it, and canned stuff usually typically doesn't.
+
+[14:01] I don't know if you're making it yourself or not. Um but if you're using canned that typically will have some stuff in it. But you could add um some sort of a uh thickener like uh locust bean or or or a flavor free guar to it and see whether that uh helps you helps you out a little bit. But if this sucker tastes good um uh when it's soft, it's probably not an overrun problem. So like if it's overly dense when it gets hard and and but it it doesn't temper out nicely either, like it doesn't when you pull it out of the freezer for a little while, does it scoop nicely eventually and get back to good texture, or does it just turn like a rock and stays a rock until it's melted?
+
+[14:41] No, I mean it densely goes back to a nice texture, you can definitely scoop it again. Right, so it could it could be density. It could be density, in which case you might want to up the solid. So it's coconut milk and what? Coconut milk, I definitely put the coconut cream in too, like you're saying, and I do use the can.
+
+[14:58] Right. And then um every once in a while I'll throw some liqueur in there as well, depending on what flavor I'm doing. Right. That'll make it softer. But I wonder whether you need a higher solids content, whether it's not it's just not uh churning enough.
+
+[15:11] You know what I'm saying? Like you might want to sometimes I'll put in like um I'll put in coconut nectar to hopefully make like a what it's definitely nectar, like a syrup instead of actual sugar. I don't know if that could be a problem, perhaps. No, I mean like if you added too much sugar, it would get too soft, right? And it wouldn't freeze properly, it wouldn't get too hard.
+
+[15:31] So if this stuff does come back to being uh kind of in good temper again and it's sweet enough, then it could be that you're just not getting enough overrun, and so you need to add some um something that's gonna increase the uh the actual overrun, the whi the the whipping ability of it, in which case that would be more solids probably. Um and then maybe something uh that aerates it more. You know what? Like if anyone's listening that has a good kind of uh uh a breakdown on this, because usually when I'm doing uh coconut milk it's not straight coconut milk it's coconut milk and a fruit puree and the pectins that are in the fruit purees are helping me with um with solids with body and I think maybe that's what you know what's going on if you see whether or not you have the same problem when you do um when you do like um a flavor that has more solids like I've done uh really good uh coconut milk uh sorbet style stuff is with uh chocolate like chocolate coconut milk sorbet is is fantastic so you take like coconut milk uh and andor cream and uh you know melt chocolate into it and I usually also add uh cocoa powder because I want really dense kind of chocolate flavor and that texture comes out pretty pretty nicely so you might want to um see whether or not it's just a solids issue whether you just don't have enough actual solids in it. For sure excellent I'll I'll definitely try that out.
+
+[16:57] But again this is off the top of my head so hopefully I'm not off base and people like that guy does not know what the hell he's talking about. No not at all. I mean as a matter of fact I was just gonna say that I've listened to as many of your previous podcasts that you've done have become neutral and you'll be a fan that's all I've I've watched two hardware talk and uh I can't wait for the the cocktail books to come out and then your shears all donated a few times over waiting for for the millin to come out. Cool well appreciate well it's uh we're uh we're actually talking to our suppliers right now uh styles right we're looking we're looking we're hopefully gonna be on time we might be a couple weeks late right a couple I hope not we'll we'll we're gonna we're gonna update more as we go but I'll tell you something I won't be talking out of my behind in the cocktail book that thing has been thoroughly vetted thoroughly vetted uh in fact like you know what the one of the weird things that we had uh uh uh recipe change on was um with the comparian soda like so we have on the bar now we have a a recipe that's the Booker and DAX take on comparian soda and um you know the the benefit is you can carbonate the whole thing so although you know Nastasha here likes any comparian soda variant right no matter regardless of like how uh well or poorly it is carbonated uh you know at Booker Index we like to carbonate everything right and uh we're also kind of people rib us because uh our drinks tend to be like everyone claims that our drinks are high in alcohol even though they're the same amount of alcohol that you have in any in any beverage so we do the uh compare and soda and we use uh champagne acid so champagne acid is a mixture of lactic acid and um tartaric and the reason is is because although the grapes have a balance of tartaric and malic acid most champagnes one of the notable exceptions is Krug did you do you are you you like Krug you ever yeah so you notice how Krug Stas is shaking her head she's think so happy thinking about champagne that she can't like words can't even come to her mouth. But she uh uh Krug has a kind of uh an appley note on it when you kind of like a green fresh appley note on it and that's because of the malic acid because Krug does not go through malolactic fermentation whereas um most champagnes do and when they go through malolactic uh fermentation the acids turn from malic to lactic, and so the champagne acid we use is a blend of uh lactic and tartaric.
+
+[19:20] But the weird, here's where it gets weird. So we add that instead of a tw uh squeeze of lime, we add that to, and and we did this by the way, before the lime craziness where the lime prices are so high now. Uh, but um, we do it because so that the the compari uh and soda alike drinks more like uh a wine and less like a cocktail. Uh crazy thing is it turns out that if you bottle the stuff, add the acid, carbonate it, and let it sit overnight, that the bitterness, the inherent bitterness of the campari, is amplified like greatly. So it tastes delicious when you make it, and then the next day it's kind of unpalatably bitter.
+
+[19:57] And it's not unpalatably bitter in that it's like so bitter, it's like it's like the bitterness lingers, just lingers. And uh, and we did a test, we did a test with adding it before, you know, we we we ran a test in putting Aperol in, because Aperol is you know less bitter, and Aperol also gets you know, Aperol for those of you that don't drink Aperol, Aperol is like Campari's slightly sweeter, slightly less alcoholic cousin, and um we did it with uh Aperol, Aperol also got bitter. So it now, and we don't know why. I have no idea why, but we tested it without the acid in it, and it was fine, it was stable. So something about storing diluted campari or aparol in the presence, and I don't know whether it's any acid because we didn't test it with um you know malik or like a lime acid blend.
+
+[20:45] We tested it just with uh lactic and tartaric, the champagne acid, but something about it causes the liquor to change overnight. It's very odd. I wanna I have no idea why. I just know it empirically to be the case. Um so that's a recipe that was in the book that now I'm gonna have to add a little footnote because once we had tested it for stability in the bar, we'd noticed this phenomena that we completely didn't um anticipate.
+
+[21:09] Because the acid itself, unlike uh lime juice or lemon juice, which is known to go bad over time, you know, uh it's not the acids that go bad and it's not the product, it's the actual juice that goes bad. So I had not expected that in a uh in a compari situation. Uh so should we take our first commercial break? Come back to some cooking issues? Yes.
+
+[21:30] Let's do it. Hello, do it yourself or ever thought about gardening? If you can build that window box, you can build a raised bed in your backyard. Bonnie veggie and herb plants in raised beds make a fast weekend project with a big payback. Fresh, grow 'em yourself tomatoes and peppers, kale, basil and thyme, and so much more.
+
+[22:16] Bonnie plants are healthy and strong and help jumpstart your garden. So get growing. Plans and how-tos at Bonnie Plants dot com. Are we back? And we're back.
+
+[22:30] And we're back with cooking issues. I never can I never can tell. Like sometimes like it ends abruptly, sometimes we we you know kinda keep you on your toes. I know it. I know it.
+
+[22:39] Even though we're sitting on our duffs here. You mentioned the lime shortage thing before it's crazy. I was reading all these articles people like yeah I'm just gonna sub lemons. I mean, that's crazy, you know? Yeah, that won't work.
+
+[22:49] That won't work. So, you know, just you know, well, I mean, if you don't care, if you're an enemy of quality, you know, then it won't it won't matter. Then, you know, it's fine. You can do whatever you want. You could substitute, you know, I don't know, swill.
+
+[23:01] I don't matter. But if you want it the stuff that like lemons and limes don't taste any they don't taste the same, they don't function the same way. And strangely, you can tell more once a drink is made that you like so some people make the mistake of tasting just lime juice and just lemon juice and thinking like it's yeah, you know, it's like because it something that's that acidic, like those the differences between the two are only gonna come out more as when they're used in a in a drink. We ran a test. So both uh lime juice and so much more than Jack was hoping for.
+
+[23:31] Uh we ran a test with uh lemon juice and uh lime lemon juice and lime juice are roughly six percent acidity. Uh lemon juice, the the acid, uh predominantly just forget the vitamin C because the scorpic acid doesn't really affect the flavor of it that much. Uh is is uh citric. That's the the bulk of the acid in in a lemon and in a in a lime, it's uh instead of six percent citric, it's more like and it's a give or take, right? It's uh like four percent citric and two percent malloc.
+
+[24:01] And it's that citric malloc blend that creates the natural acidity of um lime. Now the the trick is you know, uh we wanted to do uh we wanted a fake uh we want we tried to do a fake thing where we took lemon and then doped it with malic acid and water so that it was still six percent, uh, but it had the correct blend and it wasn't quite uh right. Part of the thing when you're shaking most of the time when you're using uh a citrus like a lemon or lime, you're shaking a cocktail. When you're shaking a cocktail, it's not just the acidity you need, you actually need the the the the surface active properties of the of the juice itself, the the pectins, whatever else is in it, that cause uh um the shaking cocktails to hold air better, right? And become you know, kind of better shaking cocktails.
+
+[24:48] So I don't know whether it just tasted not as good or whether or not you know we could just tell because it didn't have that kind of peel note that's in lime juice. Of course, that I could have faked it by adding a little bit of succinic acid, which is the secret ingredient in lime acid, uh, and also hard to source. But we weren't able to get a good thing, even when we were specifically trying to do a sub out. So during the shortage, we have um we have mo less uh lime juice shaking cocktails and more of our lemon juice shaking cocktails on the menu. Well, luckily we are not uh you know forced to use one uh or the other.
+
+[25:20] But I you know the the thing about it is, Jack, is that even though limes are ridiculously expensive now, like a factor of four, I think. I forget what the recent numbers are. It's crazy like that. Yeah, it's well, and and you're so you're you pay by the case, which is a certain case count, but the the amount of juice that's in the ones we're getting now is nothing. So it's like you know, we're in that time of year anyway, where when you juice the lime, like two drops of juice come out of the lime, and so they're expensive and useless.
+
+[25:47] So the actual price difference isn't even enough of a factor to factor in how bad they are. Um but still, relative to expensive liquor, it's still, you know, and relative to the use rate, you know, you can kind of you can kind of uh afford it. Although the issue is just you know, you don't want to order too much because we throw it away at the end of the night. So it gets expensive if you make a lot extra and then you have to throw it away at the end of the night, or s we don't we don't actually throw it away. We give it to the kitchen because the kitchen can use it in cooking applications that uh you know we can't use it for in drinks anymore.
+
+[26:22] But yeah, it's a pain in the butt. It'll hopefully I'm told uh that all of that nonsense will be over in May. At the at the end, well, at the end of May. What's the uh the definite? There'll be another crop coming in.
+
+[26:33] Um this one would is shafted by a number of things, so everyone says it's the cartels. I like to say it's the cartels, but you know, they had a uh uh a spot of weather, as we say. Uh it's the cartels, come on. All right. Well, I mean, like I want it to be the cartels, right?
+
+[26:48] That's what we all want. A better story. Yeah, you know. It's like but but but if it was the cartels, right? Avocados come from a similar area, don't they?
+
+[26:55] Like avocado prices haven't spiked as much as limes. Of course, you don't need armed guards for uh I mean like you for your I mean lime trucks now require armed guards. I think the last time I read an article and it's good I'm again I'm talking out of my behind, so I could be wrong, but what I you know, the article I read was that a tractor trailer limes had like, you know, a value of uh street value of over a hundred thousand dollars now. So it's like you know. I mean, not it's a lot of freaking limes, but you gotta remember, like, you know, I'm used to limes being like, you know, seven eight for a dollar, you know, at the Essex Street Market where I buy limes and cheap avocados and Anne's delicious but not inexpensive cheese.
+
+[27:34] Uh and it's that would be Anne Saxoby. Uh but um isn't that weird that market they have like like like people who are selling the cheapest possible avocados in bulk and then like Anne Sax will be. It's a strange market setup, right? It's a cool market. Yeah.
+
+[27:51] That's wonderful. Unfortunately it's only gonna be more of the latter going forward, I think. More of which one? Which one's the latter? Of the delicious but not inexpensive items.
+
+[28:00] I don't know. The th I think that they're obliged to keep the avocado vendors there. I mean, there's like five or six I mean the reason is there's five or six people that sell uh very similar styles of produce there, and so they're beaten uh their prices get beaten down pretty pretty hardcore. Anytime someone who's there who has something that isn't duplicated three and four times, the price tends to rise a little bit. But I don't know.
+
+[28:24] Jack, you used to work there every once in a while, right? At the market? No, but I mean the heritage meat shop's there, so I've spent some time there. I just I just saw you when you hung out at the you 'cause you used to hang out occasionally at the Heritage Meat Shop in the market. Yeah, totally.
+
+[28:36] Yeah. It's a great spot. Yeah. Someday someone will tell so Heritage Meat, there you well, whatever we won't get won't get won't get in, won't talk. If you're in New York, go to the Essex Street Market and get a heritage pork chop and some sacks will be cheese.
+
+[28:47] How about that? There you go. And you can eat I've never eaten at Shopson's. You eaten there? Oh, I haven't, but he's uh apparently a crazy guy.
+
+[28:53] Yeah, again, we're just a little like an in inside inside ball for uh for New Yorkers, but there's a lunatic there at Shopson's. That's his second location, right? You ever eaten there, Emma? No, I haven't. He's a l he's like an old school lunatic.
+
+[29:05] He's like the soup Nazi for breakfast. Is that accurate? I mean, we have we had the menu in our office for a while, just as a kind of piece on its own on the wall to look at occasionally. He has a book, right? He won't serve you if he doesn't like you, right?
+
+[29:17] That's how I've heard. Yeah, I don't know. I don't know. I don't wanna I don't want to have to be judged. I just want to eat breakfast and then go in peace.
+
+[29:25] Stu what about you, Stas? What do you think? Do you like being judged when you're having breakfast? You just want to eat? Mm-hmm.
+
+[29:30] Yeah. Do you like judging while you eat breakfast? Stas, do you like judging while you eat breakfast? I don't usually eat breakfast out. I don't eat breakfast actually.
+
+[29:39] Really? Mm-hmm. Really? Mm-hmm. M most most important meal of the day.
+
+[29:44] Which brings us back to cereal. Yes, which brings us back to uh cereal. But she does judge when she we both judge when we eat. Like we're both pretty rough. Like we're both pretty neat.
+
+[29:54] What are you really rough? What? Especially to women, you're really rough. How am I rough to women? That's a lie.
+
+[30:00] I'm I'm first of all, I'm way rougher on men than on women. Emma, back me up on this. You hung out with me before. I'm not sure I've had enough meals with you. Certainly I've eaten here.
+
+[30:09] What women am I rough on? Oh my god. Besides you. Like any woman that he sees online, like instant in like anything, like a Twitter follower or like anything that you see on your computer that's a woman, you're like, look at her. She's busted.
+
+[30:26] What? Are you kidding me? That is not true at all. That i that is a straight first of all, not only is that like I am actually offended, that is a freaking lie. That's a freaking lie.
+
+[30:38] I what I show you is when people on Twitter follow me who aren't real, who clearly are not real people, who are out there trolling to get men to look at at them to like trade some sort of pictures. It's the fake people that I point out. I don't point out any real people. Okay. People that I think are fake people.
+
+[30:58] Okay. You know what I'm talking about. Jack, you know what I'm talking about on the Twitter, right? Yeah, I look at him like that that's not real. You know what I mean?
+
+[31:06] Like they you know, and then they're like, you know, email me for the picture. I'm not gonna email you for pictures. What do I need with your picture for? I don't need picture. Well, we've got a call.
+
+[31:15] Caller, you're on the air. Hey. Um so since you're Mofad person is here, I was gonna ask you, is there any update on the boom serial? Are you guys gonna be able to make that? Oh, on the actual serial.
+
+[31:31] Alright, Emma, why don't you say what we're uh what we're up to? What a segue. So indeed, yeah, we were actually just at the machine today, and uh it was kind of in hibernation over the winter and uh needed a little bit of of care after the the long rough winter that we had in New York. Um but the gun is in beautiful working order and we've been puffing a lot of rice and kind of trying to perfect the recipe on on that front. Uh I think we may also be testing out some various wheat varieties.
+
+[31:57] We had stayed away from wheat and and gluten-containing grains initially, but I think uh there might be a possibility to try those out actually after all. Uh sorry to everyone who is celiac, but there's just too many, too many possibilities out there. So um I think we should be able to get those bags of puffs to everyone probably by the end of the summer. I know it's a year later, but uh there was just a lot of downtime uh when we couldn't use the gun over the winter, so that's that's fine. That's going to be very exciting.
+
+[32:30] We're gonna fire the gun at our nave. What do you say? Uh I got a question for you. Uh a few weeks back, uh you were talking about the merits of Vitamixes, and you mentioned something about blending a pound of bacon into pasta sauce or tomato sauce or something. Oh yeah.
+
+[32:47] Is there a recipe behind that? No, it's just what happened. And um luckily my wife does not listen to this show because she hates when I tell this story. Um but the um I I hate it when people pick things out of food. I hate it.
+
+[33:04] You know what I mean? Like, unless you're actually allergic to it, like I detest when things get picked out of things. I don't like when sandwiches get picked apart, like when someone gets a sandwich and they rip it open and they take all the guts out. And my kids do it all the time. It's like a constant source of irritation to me.
+
+[33:19] But I I uh it just gets to me. So I used to make sauces, right? And then with bacon, right? And then at the end of the night, there'd be a little pile of bacon in the in the bottom of the bowl because the bacon had been, yeah, I don't know, picked around or whatever. And it's not because my my wife is not one of these people, by the way, who is you know afraid of eating fat.
+
+[33:43] You know, in fact, one of the reasons I knew that she was the woman for me was because we once went to a Popeye's fried chicken and she wasn't paying attention to what was going on. She took a whole bucket down by herself. I mean, this lady knows how to eat. Uh so it's not that, but it was just something about it. And I was just like, uh, and so then I got the vita prep, and instead of having the bacon maintained in the so it was a visible thing, I was like to hell with it.
+
+[34:06] After, you know, you normally I would cook out the bacon, remove the bacon, sweat out the uh whatever alliums I'm using in the bacon fat, add the add the tomato, whatever else, cook down, blend, uh, add bacon back at the end for crunch and texture, and um, and then you know, one day I was like to hell with it, and I just blended it into the sauce, and it was so smooth, so smooth. And uh so there was no way possibly to pull the bacon out anymore. I was like, when I've I've noticed that I have that problem when I'm making like pots and sauces with bacon that I can't incorporate the bacon. It it tends to stir out, you know what I mean? Yeah, yeah.
+
+[34:47] And uh ends up at the bottom of the bowl when you're tossing. It ends up at the bottom of the bowl when you're tossing is what you're saying with separating out. Yeah, yeah, yeah. And you know, the the bacon is is a fun part. I I don't know how much we would lose in texture by doing it that way, but uh I I I'm gonna give it a try anyway.
+
+[35:07] Yeah, here's what you should do. Blend blend it in for flavor and then maybe save some and then sprinkle over top uh like a service. Yeah, like garnish bacon, but then most of the bacon will be multified bacon. Yeah, that's the way to go. Yeah.
+
+[35:24] All right, thank you very much. All right, tweet tweet on in, let me let tell me how it tastes. Cool. Cool, thanks a lot. All right, so going back to the the gun for a minute, uh, and then I got a uh a question on the thing I have to hit before we go.
+
+[35:36] But okay, so we're we're at the gun today, and it's gonna be it's actually gonna be at our benefit, right? Yes. So you want to talk about the benefit for a second? May 7th. Right.
+
+[35:45] It's gonna be here in New York at a awesome place called the Foundry, which is in Long Island City. And one great perk of this venue that we found, it's an industrial area, so we can drive up the puffing gun, unlike you know, some sort of gala hall in Manhattan where you know space is limited. So we're gonna pull up the puffing gun and uh hopefully do uh a couple of preview shots for people. Um so that's why we were there today. Uh the benefit is um gonna be a huge, huge affair.
+
+[36:14] I mean, we've got eight of these amazing chefs lined up, each of whom is tackling a different museum-themed course. So for example, uh I was recently uh emailing back and forth a little bit with Amanda Cohen of Dirt Candy, a vegetable-centric restaurant in the East Village. Uh and her theme is Korea before the chili, i.e. uh pre-Columbian Korean cuisine. Um and for that matter, you could do that with a number of uh South Asian or Southeast Asian cuisines that rely heavily on chilies.
+
+[36:44] So uh I think she said she's making a few different kinds of kimchi that are chili free. The old the old white ones. Yes, yeah, I think so. Nice. Yeah, sounds good.
+
+[36:53] What else we got? Why don't you tell them why don't you tell them who's and you can still buy tickets if you've got the cash. Uh you should go to mofad dot com uh or dot org, right? Yeah, benefit.mofad.org is the place for tickets. So uh we've got individual tickets and then also if you got a group of buddies or colleagues, you can buy a table.
+
+[37:11] So why don't you run through the uh chefs and what they're doing? So we've also got uh Franklin Becker of the Little Beat who has what Masaswap brought to Thanksgiving. Now this is a bit controversial because uh the idea of a first Thanksgiving is pretty contentious historically. I think most food historians would say there probably was no first Thanksgiving in the way that we have idealized it here in the US. That being said, there is a primary source uh one or two letters that mention that this one pinag chief Masaswa brought five deer to a gathering with colonists in Plymouth.
+
+[37:48] So deer taste good. Um would be in keeping with the Native American cuisine theme. What else we got? Let's see. Uh oh, Wiley Dufrain, WD 50, uh long time supporter of Mofad, is tackling the four humors.
+
+[38:12] So the sort of extremely outdated notion that uh human physiology is based on these four substances. The black bile, yellow bile, phlegm and blood, I believe are they that's not true. Not sure when it was debunked, but it was quite a while ago. So he's gonna be uh kind of exploring this theme of food as medicine, the intersection between food and health through this theme. Right.
+
+[38:38] Uh I'm not exactly sure what his what his uh what he's gonna do. It's an i it was an incredibly influential view in um medieval cookery. And so uh, you know, a lot of medieval cookery is based around um you know, the the idea was is you want to center yourself not too not too phlegmatic uh or moist and you know cold, not too hot, not too dry. So yeah, you're you're phlegmatic and you're cold, you're hot and you're dry, and you gotta get and it as represented by the different actual bodily humors, the biles and whatnot. Uh but as it's a very interesting and demented uh every food had its own uh sort of rating, and every cooking method had its own sort of rating.
+
+[39:16] So roasting would be hot and dry. Uh, you know, and there's all different and so like kind of balancing all that um interesting idea. Who else we got? Uh let's see. Also uh I'm really excited about this one personally.
+
+[39:28] Dominique Anzel of of Cronet Fame, although I'm sure he hates to be cast in that light, uh, is taking on uh food on the battlefield. And apparently he used to actually for a short time was a cook for the French military. Um and so uh he's got some actual hands-on experience uh doing this kind of food. Um and I think he's he's gonna be doing a a pastry course as far as I know. Um and I think the presentation will be will be very interesting there.
+
+[39:54] I don't want to give away the the secret entirely, but we we got uh we got uh Brooks Headley's doing um food of future past, right? Yes, so a more conceptual theme. Um I haven't checked in with him, so again, not sure what that course is like in terms of its development. Michael Anthony got TV dinners. Yes, another one where the presentation is gonna be critical.
+
+[40:15] And the idea there is we'll do a uh short video pitch on Mofad, um, since we're gonna be announcing some big plans for the coming years, uh, along with Michael Anthony's TV dinner. Nice, which is hilarious. Uh that's everyone, right? Uh no, we've also got Nils Nurren. Oh, Nils, yeah, what's Nils?
+
+[40:32] Nils, oh my god, the best. He's doing ital cuisine. Rastafarian Ital cuisine. Oh, I love Nils. Nils is a huge reggae fan.
+
+[40:39] What else we got who else we got? Let's see. And that's it. Sweet. Oh, and then on the I'm gonna hit this question real quick.
+
+[40:48] Uh also uh we've got uh Sean Gray of Momofuku Co. Oh, beautiful. Yeah, yeah, yeah. See the thing is whenever you're listening at things out of order, it's better to list things in order. What's his topic?
+
+[40:56] He's got Pennsylvania Dutch food. He actually hails from uh Pennsylvania, as I think. Right, right. So this will be hitting close to home for him in some way. Sweet.
+
+[41:05] All right. And that's everyone, right? Yes. You got everyone now? All right, nice.
+
+[41:08] All right. If we have a second on the way out, we're gonna do a pitch for the round table too. Mofad round table. But uh we got a question in from Alex in Santa Barbara. Um Dave, Nasasha, Jack, and maybe.
+
+[41:22] He gave you a maybe, Jack, right? Maybe, wow. Wow. And everyone else that's there today. Once again, thanks for the programs.
+
+[41:27] Greatly appreciate it. The question is a bit long, so please feel free to edit for your show. Uh I believe we all do uneconomical things in or for the kitchen. For example, last summer I grew $25 tomatoes because I only managed to grow four of them. The it uh so spent a hundred dollars total, got four tomatoes, twenty-five bucks.
+
+[41:44] Uh the year before I was giving them away and figured I could repeat my success, but it didn't work out. I would have been much better off uh buying farmers market tomatoes uh for ten bucks and saving ninety bucks. The only reason I tried to grow them was because the tomatoes the year before were very good and very plentiful. Uh this came up because my friend was just getting into home brewing. I immediately thought back to my tomatoes and figured he was about to spend a lot of money, time and effort to produce a product far inferior to what he could purchase easily.
+
+[42:09] I understand the journey is part of the fun, but sometimes the cost isn't worth it. I do not brew my own soy sauce, roast my own coffee beans, smoke my own bacon, or keep a sourdough starter. The time, energy, and cost are not worth it compared to what is readily available. On the other hand, I never order something at a restaurant that I can pull off almost as well, if not far better at home. A New York strip steak is a great example.
+
+[42:31] Instead, I try to order something which takes much more time and energy at home. Additionally, I never purchased a half quart container of diced onions or jar of crushed garlic. That crushed garlic is gross. Uh no offense to who people who make it. Uh, I cannot believe those products sell well enough for the stores to stock them.
+
+[42:45] I refuse to believe I'm alone in thinking this way. Like I said above, I can understand the journey and the experience as part of the fun. That said, what do you think uh are the uneconomical efforts put forth at home? More more importantly, what are the products that should never be purchased because the cost quality effort are such that making them at home is the uh is the uh uh should never be purchased because uh because the cost quality effort are such that making them at home uh is is a bad idea. I think I I I went ahead of my brain.
+
+[43:10] Uh hopefully the spirit of the question came through this email. Some of the things off the top of my head, uh peanut butter, right? He only buys it and he has friends that object. I buy peanut butter because commercial peanut butter is delicious, and you don't have a mill. Nine I guarantee you don't have a mill that can produce peanut butter with the same texture as the stuff uh that you you ever had any natural like home ground peanut butter you thought was really good?
+
+[43:31] No. I know people who like that kind of texture. I'm not one of them. I like good old-fashioned emulsified emulsified sweetened, sweetened U.S. peanut butter.
+
+[43:40] Hell yeah. Hell yeah. That stuff's good. Uh hot sauce, I always buy it. I think uh here's the thing.
+
+[43:45] I'm gonna answer in general and then I'm gonna go over some of these things. So, for instance, learning how to do everything, like being a brewer for a while, if not for your whole life. If you like brewing, you should keep doing it because it's rewarding if you do it right. It is a pain in the butt to do all grain brick grain brewing. But I think doing anything once or twice is worthwhile if you want to know how things work, even if you're not going to make the kind of best product.
+
+[44:11] The only thing that I haven't done really in this list, I mean I haven't done soy sauce, but uh wines, because I can't like you don't have really control over the raw ingredients to even get kind of usually a reasonable expectation of the highest quality on wine. So one reason I haven't hit it yet, because I don't have a lock on the really high quality inputs. But like beer, you can get extremely high quality inputs and you can make good beer. So do I brew beer anymore? No.
+
+[44:35] After my second son was born, I don't do anymore because it was a huge mess, but I I did it for a while. Uh, same with roasting coffee. I used to roast all my own coffee beans, and I think it's really good. Uh other people can do as good a job or a better job than I can do, but uh I enjoyed learning about it, and I feel like I know much more about coffee for having done it. Uh ditto sourdough starters.
+
+[44:56] I, you know, I'd no longer maintain one, but I maintained one for uh a long time, and I think it was worthwhile uh to kind of feel what it's like to have something um on a continuous basis that you have to take care of in your kitchen that made delicious bread. So I think that there's it's often worthwhile to go through the effort to do it, but not necessarily worth the effort to maintain it for your whole life. Does that make sense? Make sense? All right, let's go over these one by one.
+
+[45:19] Style's like, I don't care. Uh tofu. Uh you said you liked uh yours homemade, but I read up on the process and now testing out everything the local Japanese market has to offer because I can't see myself going through all that effort. Here's another thing. Tofu is only hard the first four times you make it.
+
+[45:33] As soon as your kitchen is streamlined and you have all the stuff ready and you've gone through the procedure, so you're not wondering what's going on, it's actually not that difficult to make uh to make tofu. Uh you just have to remember to soak the stuff uh beforehand is the only is the only big whoopty crap. So a lot of these things that are difficult are only difficult because we don't do them often. Uh cheese. I always buy, but I'm starting to think I should try my hand at my own ricotta at the very least with McGee's book in hand.
+
+[45:57] What about you, Emma? You make your own cheese? No, actually, I think I've only done you know simple kind of fresh cheeses, paneer, things of that sort. Yeah, and I'm not very good at it. What about you stuff?
+
+[46:05] Do you ever make your own mozzarella or anything? See, I think there's a huge art to making something like a mozzarella. Ricotta I could try. But like real whey wakata or like the whole milk recotta one mix. I don't know.
+
+[46:14] I don't know about that. Puff pastry dough. I buy the frozen sheets. I've made it in the past and cannot tell the difference, which might say more about my pastry skills than it does about the quality of the frozen sheets. I make my own puff paste, but I like making it.
+
+[46:24] I enj I enjoy the process of making it. Yeah, I like laminated doughs. They're um they're time consuming, but they don't actually take a lot of effort. You just need to be able to take it out of the freezer, you know, over the course of a day, ten times. I would say mine's probably worse than the stuff you can buy, but I enjoy making it.
+
+[46:39] What about you, sir? You ever do laminated doughs like that? No, not your jammy. Yeah, are you much of a baker or more of a cook? You don't like to bake much, right?
+
+[46:47] No. Even cookies? No. No. Especially cookies.
+
+[46:50] Uh cake mix. This one's a tough call because uh the the box is so very easy, but I like to think from scratch cakes are better. I don't like cake mixes. I never use cake mixes. I think it's an insult because it's literally like the stuff that they put in that box you can just buy and measure out.
+
+[47:04] Same with pancake mix. I don't get it. Uh I don't like that hyper uniform texture that they provide. I never I never use them ever. Yeah, well, and particularly when you read about the history of the development of cake mixes and how they initially had made them so it was really almost just add water, and then found that through kind of consumer research, uh housewives were um didn't really enjoy the the process of making these cakes.
+
+[47:26] There was there was too little to do. So they reformulated them, so you had to add egg and add a little bit of, you know. Yeah. But in a tiny bit of effort. So yeah, so what the hell?
+
+[47:35] It's like I also I don't use bisquick, no offense to bisquick. I don't use self-rising flour because I know how baking powder works. You know. Uh tortillas. I buy them, have made them both corn and flour, but the local shop makes a fine product.
+
+[47:49] I think it's very look, it's a huge pain in the ass to make uh tortillas, but I still think I'd rather have I use the uh store-bought ones like in a pinch, like for us for a normal weekday meal uh and heat them up. Uh if I don't have time, it's been a while since I've done the full nixtimalization. I think it's definitely a worthwhile road to go down, but it's a pain. But like if I if I'm really in a hurry, my seca is not that much slower. So you buy maseka to do the the tortillas.
+
+[48:16] Dried pasta. I've made my own pasta, but fresh is definitely different than dried, not necessarily better depending on the shape for things like spaghetti, the dried is preferred. Yeah, dried pasta is delicious. I like dried pasta. I like making fresh pasta, but to make fresh pasta well, you need to mean uh, you know, uh efficiently to have it not be a pain in the butt, you need to have your kitchen set up to do it.
+
+[48:34] So I used to always have my pasta uh my rollers clamped onto my work surface and everything was there, and by the time water was boiling, I could almost have fresh pasta done because I didn't do what you were supposed to do. I didn't give it the rest periods you're supposed to give it and all this, and it still tasted good, you know. Uh and so I used e I used to make fresh pasta two, three times a week. Uh my kitchen's not really set up for it uh right now. And then finally, mayonnaise.
+
+[48:58] This one's a tough call. If I'm gonna make a dressing such as ranch or blue cheese, oh my god, Dax looks ranch dressing. Uh then I will put forth the effort, but for sandwiches and the like, I go with the jar, though lately I've been enjoying the Hamptons Food Alternative. I think you get the idea. I'm looking forward to your information on the things I could I could buy, uh, but shouldn't.
+
+[49:13] I'll have to come back next week with other ideas, and I'll think about this, but I'll tell you this. I I like mayonnaise in a jar. I like jarred mayonnaise. I enjoy commercial mayonnaise. I think that stuff is delicious.
+
+[49:25] Now I still know how to make mayonnaise, and I make mayonnaise from time to time. But I like mayonnaise in a jar. Jack, you? I actually mayonnaise one of the few things I don't like, so at all? Yeah.
+
+[49:35] Weird, right? It is weird. Yeah. I mean, if it's on something, I'll take it, but I'm never like I don't know. Never reaching for the mayo.
+
+[49:42] Stas, what's your net what's your mayo thoughts? I like it. But do you like it from a jar or you like fresh? Anyway. Yeah, I mean they're two.
+
+[49:49] Pretty different things, I think. But I I mean I'm pretty partial to QP myself. But oh, Cupie is delicious. They yeah, yeah, the uh yeah, you get that in the in the Asian marks, Cupie in the little thing. Well, I wish uh I got such a high note with the anyway.
+
+[50:02] I wish we were still allowed to use commercial music, then we could leave on any way you want it. That's the way, you know, the uh the journey song. You like that one, or is that one of the ones you don't like? I like it. Yeah.
+
+[50:10] All right. So anyway, we'll come back with more things that you should or should not make at home next week on cooking issues. This is Chris. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[50:34] You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit HeritageRadion Network.org for thousands more. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from Roberta's Petri in Brussels, Brooklyn! Every Tuesday on the Heritage Radio Network from eh, well, a little late today.
+
+[0:32] To uh we have to we're at the end on time today, Stas. 1155. Uh I'll tell you what happened to me. It's my fault, obviously, but uh for those of you that live in New York City and take the subways and don't have your uh your Metro card automatically renewed for you. Here's what happens when you go to the machine.
+
+[0:46] You put the card, you put your card in the first it says, what do you want to do? Duh, I want a Metro card, right? Right? Stas, you're with me on this. And then it says, okay, uh, you know, what do you want to do?
+
+[0:58] I want to refill this card. It can't you can't just put the card in. You know what I mean? So you put the card in eventually after like 18 key presses, and it's like, well, um, what do you want to do to this card? I want to put money on it, I want to go in the freaking subway.
+
+[1:09] You know what I mean? And it asks you a billion questions, and it's like, you sure? Are you sure? You sure you want to go on the subway? And then, like, you have to enter a billion times.
+
+[1:16] You know how I never read the credit card on the first swipe? So Stas and I are our classic joke is is that the uh person programming it should have just put a thing as like, have you missed your train yet? Have you missed your train yet? How about now? Now?
+
+[1:26] Now have you missed it? So then finally it spits the damn thing out, and I see the uh there's one specific subway that will get me here on time, and I saw I saw it go bing bong as I ran up the stairs because I run up the backside, and how they closed the the front and then the back, and then they I got bing bonged. Anyway, my fault, but the best is when the machine's like, we only accept nickels today. Yeah! Like, I just don't I I like I don't get this crap at all.
+
+[1:50] Like it it doesn't take a a rocket scientist. You see, everyone, no offense if the person who programs these machines happens to like hear this at some point, but look, uh, here's a guess. If dude or a lady, I guess a person, Dewey's kind of gender neutral for me, right? Shoves uh a metro card into the machine, odds are they want to do something to it, right? You don't have to wait to ask them.
+
+[2:12] Like if they try to shove a metro card in, just accept it. Just accept it. And then be like, oh, oh, wait a minute. This Metro card is a metro card that has money on it. So he must want to add some freaking money to this damn thing.
+
+[2:24] You know what I mean? I'm not making a joke, but yours you're you have the only subway station that's uh upstairs both ways. Like Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah. I live uh yeah, I live in an awesome environment where it's like the old uphill in the snow both ways. It's true that you're yeah.
+
+[2:40] Yeah, Stas loves it because she has to go there because it's also the subway stop for Booker and Dax. No, I go to Grand. You go to Essex. No, I mean when we leave the radio station. Let me go when we go from here.
+
+[2:50] The radio station. Jack, how you doing? I'm good. Yeah? What happened at uh Williams College?
+
+[2:56] I heard something went down there. Uh well, maybe we could talk about that later. Um Should we save that for after the break? No, I mean, alright. So I went to go.
+
+[3:05] Are you talking about like the thing that made Nastasha actually happy for once in the past five years? Nastasha's been happy exactly two times in the entire five years or three, four years that we've been working together. What? What was the first time? When you got us booked on Jimmy Fallon the first time, you were genuinely happy.
+
+[3:23] And um I'm I'm talking about not ha well, this I guess counts for happy for someone else's pain. I've seen her happy for other people's pain on more than one occasion. And this one. So this is entirely my fault. I go to Williams, and I actually really like Williams a lot.
+
+[3:35] So we're going to Williams. I'd never been to Williams College before. And uh the interesting thing about uh Jack, you ever go to Williams College? You ever hang out there? You ever go?
+
+[3:43] He's not there. Uh the uh it's a college, not a university, right? And so the cool thing about it is that the students who are there, uh the undergrads get to do a lot of stuff that you know, if you go to a university, like I'm sure at Stanford, right? Same thing. You go to Stanford, the professors care most about the graduate students, right?
+
+[4:01] That's just the way it works at a university. I mean, they care about you when you're in the class, obviously, but you know, the graduate students are more important than the undergrads from this point of view of the professors at the time. But if you go to a college, there are no graduate students, so the professors care about the undergrads. So those undergrads got to do some pretty cool stuff. Anyways, so I did a uh we did a uh uh lecture there and a sociology thing.
+
+[4:21] So here's a story that uh Nastasha, I guess, primed Jack to have me tell. And that is I'm driving for like three hours, and I don't know what the hell. I you know, we we're with Peter Kim from the Museum of Food and Drink. By the way, are there still tickets available for that event? No, not that event, the one this weekend.
+
+[4:37] Yeah, both. Okay, so uh it's the New York uh it's the New York Food Book Festival or whatever it's called, Festival of Food Books, Book and Food Festival Fair. Food Book Fair, there you have it. Uh uh this weekend in in some brooklyn, yeah? At the White Hotel.
+
+[4:52] At the White Hotel. I'll be there recording the Mofad panel. Oh, there you go. And uh the uh Mofad, the Museum of Food and Drink, is having the second of its round table panels. Well you know what time it is, Jack?
+
+[5:02] Since you're recording noon, yeah, I do know. It's at the noontime, and and the subject is genetically modified organisms and uh uh their place in food. For those of you that don't know, uh do we charge for this thing, Jack? Or no? I don't know.
+
+[5:15] I don't know. No, I don't uh MoFads might be a little bit just go on Mofad.org. MoFad.org. Yeah, and they the anyway, we're we're doing these series of round tables, and I'm moderating but not giving any opinions, which is so hard for me, so hard for me. Uh the uh we did the last one on the soda ban, and this one is on um genetic like generally on genetically modified uh organisms in the uh food chain, and I am so sorry that I cannot throw my two cents in.
+
+[5:41] The difficult thing, uh surprisingly, is it was more difficult for us to get we thought it was gonna be extremely easy for us to get um kind of anti-GMO people on, but we have only really one kind of hardcore anti-GMO person, uh, and then you know, kind of like a couple, two that are vehemently pro and one that's just kind of more in the in the neutral zone. But we're hoping to get uh we have some questions in from you know outside folk that are you know that are very anti because we will the whole idea is we want to have in these round tables uh a reasoned debate on both sides, not just uh you know, show one side or the other. Do the do people at this radio station are they anti-genetically modified organism, Jack in general? I mean, generally I'd say so, but we're trying to keep more of an open mind around it because it's not so you know black and white. Well, well, hold on a second, it's not it's not it's not it's not just that it's not black and white.
+
+[6:32] It's like I don't even think that they that the argument is framed properly. Right. I don't think people know what they're supporting or against necessarily. For instance, like here's something that people don't don't think they're sp they're they're focusing specifically on like transgenic like additions of genes from uh different species or even different, you know, whole categories of thing into something for a specific trait. So for instance, the ability to um the ability to resist roundup, right?
+
+[7:02] So you have roundup ready things, right? Which is a nervous side. Or uh the ability to uh create its own pest resistance without the need for pesticides, which seems to me to be kind of an inherent good, right? Um whatever. Or increased yield, or theoretically you could increase the nutritional value of things, like the uh you know, golden rice that has a higher beta carotene level.
+
+[7:22] There's there's a wide variety of things for doing this. But it seems to me that there's a bunch of different arguments for the harm of it, and other than the moral arguments, like the actual safety, there's also economic arguments, right? I'm not gonna get into those. But uh, if your argument is against the safety of it, right? There are things that we do to plants that are much more dangerous from a standpoint of uh creating possible allergens, right, in the food system.
+
+[7:48] So, you know, forced mutation through the uh application of ionizing radiation, right? Which is like, you know, has been since the atomic age, has been, you know, uh a method for inducing rapid uh change in things like corn, for instance, right? You radiate a boatload of seeds, some of them have mutations, some of them are useful, or very few of them are useful, the rest get thrown away, and you can get new things this way. Much higher potential, according to the studies I've read for possible new allergens and weird crap happening with that sort of mutation than when you're taking a targeted gene that you know what it does already and injecting it in. You know what I'm saying?
+
+[8:27] Anyway, but like that requires no labeling. No one's saying that we should go label those kinds of seeds. There's no it's not even on the table. It's not even considered in the genetically modified uh, you know, in the rubric of genetically modified organisms. So it just seems to me that like to frame all of GMO as kind of one thing under one tent that's done for one reason with one set of goods and one set of harms is kind of silly.
+
+[8:49] No, Jack, you with me on this? Anyways. I like how you're like squeezing in all your opinions because you can't give them as you're moderating the panel. You like that? Yeah.
+
+[8:57] Do you like that? Alright, so back to Williams. So I'm at the Williams College. And I don't know why Nastasha was because Nastasha enjoys uh embarrassment. Once she brings it up, I have to say it.
+
+[9:06] So I I go into my room, I forget my luggage is. My luggage is is filled with uh crap for demos like CO2 and your clothing. No, my clothing was in my shoulder bag. You said you still well, whatever. Anyway, my clothing was in my shoulder bag.
+
+[9:20] Uh and uh because who cares about my clothing? I shove that in my shoulder bag. Um the important stuff, the demo goes in my in my in my luggage. So I'm wheeling the luggage, uh, and we didn't do it old school Piper where we had an open can of propane in it that was left on and nearly burned his hair off. Remember that?
+
+[9:33] Yes. That was awesome. Um wasn't really awesome. So Peter has so anyway, so he has my luggage because I don't know, for some I always carry everything. I always carry everything.
+
+[9:42] Stas, am I right? I carry every freaking thing. So like Peter for some reason thinks he's gonna help me out, so he starts wheeling my luggage, so I forget I have it because my clothes aren't in it, you know what I mean? And I'm not carrying it. So it doesn't exist, right?
+
+[9:56] So I go to my room. I've been driving for like three and a half hours. We're about to leave, so I I go and I forget to shut my door behind me. It's a giant room, by the way. William set up some of these giant rooms.
+
+[10:06] And uh I forget to shut the door behind me. I don't know, I assume it auto-closes or something, and I go into the bathroom and I don't shut that door either because I'm alone in my room. And then Peter and Stas come to bring my luggage, which they didn't need to bring to me because I was gonna take it to the demo anyway, because all the stuff in the demo is in it. And then I I see them out and they're like, Dave, what's up? I'm like, oh my god, I realize the door's open because they're calling in.
+
+[10:25] I'm like, leave the luggage and shut the door. And then so Peter starts wheeling the luggage in. Into the bathroom. He starts wheeling it into the well into the into the into the there's a there's a hallway, a foyer, right? And I can see that the move the kind of movement in the mirror.
+
+[10:42] I'm like, ah, nah. I'm like, so I say, I say close it, meaning the door, because clearly the luggage is already inside because I can see the movement of the hand. But here's what Peter hears. Closer. Closer?
+
+[10:54] Why would I say closer? That's crazy. So he starts, alright. So I see him moving in closer with the luggage, and I'm like, get out! Get out!
+
+[11:04] What's wrong with you? Shut the door. Although I had some expletives that were like mixed in. But I guess from their standpoint, they're like, why is this guy leaving the door open? And maybe something's wrong with him.
+
+[11:12] Maybe he's dead. I don't know. Maybe he went back inside or whatever. And they hear. Leave the luggage and close the door.
+
+[11:21] Closer. Anyways, so and that that little just to give you an idea of Nastasha, that little uh because you don't understand Dave's biggest fear in life is either being naked or being on the toilet and having anyone hear him or see him. Yeah, or I I don't like, I don't like, first of all, I like I only like my restroom in my house, which right now is buried in the very back corner of the house, and like, you know, my wife and I, we have our own. I don't know if the kids share it, nothing. It's like, you know, it's like my little castle area.
+
+[11:51] I don't want to be bothered, irritated, spoken to. And then you close your hotel room door. Well, I uh look, I made one error and then completely compounded out of all reason. Nuts. Calling your questions to 7184972128.
+
+[12:06] That's 7184972128. Nice segue. You like that? Uh yeah. So anyways, so you can go on the line and uh go and see the uh GMO Thing of Majig at the uh at the book festival.
+
+[12:17] And I recommend checking out because you know what I like me some books about? Food. Like me some food books. Daz, you like some food books? Yeah.
+
+[12:25] Yeah? Mm-hmm. Yeah? Mm-hmm. Well, do you do you like uh do you like Grupo Pizza?
+
+[12:29] It's totally random. You don't know? I don't know what it is. It's that super thin cracker crust pizza. Oh no, I like deep dish.
+
+[12:29] What the fu what? I really love deep dish. Deep dish? Where did this come from? I just love Chicago style pizza.
+
+[12:41] W when was it? I had it in San Francisco last time I was there. So how so have you been to Chicago and had it? Uh-huh. When were you in Chicago?
+
+[12:48] Years, like ten years ago. How is it that we've like been together this long? I have no idea that you like this kind of pizza. I love it. Which by the way, in Chicago, when you go there and you're like, yo, gee, I want to try some of this Chicago, they're like, nah.
+
+[13:01] They're like, nah, you don't really want to do that. Really? I don't know. They're like ashamed of it there. Like the people I've spoken to there, the locals, they're like ashamed.
+
+[13:08] I guess because they think look, first of all, like when I was a kid, people used to say, Oh, New York pizza. Oh, New York style pizza. You have New York style pizza. New pizza in New York until about ten years ago sucked. Sucked hard.
+
+[13:20] It was bad. You know what I mean? There was like four or five places that made really, really good versions of like old school American New York pizza that I liked. You know what I mean? Like uh I like, you know, I like Grimaldi's, I like Lombardi's, I like all that stuff.
+
+[13:34] You know, uh, I guess Arturas. I'm forgetting a bunch of people, I'm sure. But like, you know, like us actually kicking any sort of butt in the pizza world really is only the past ten years, you know. But it I've never heard someone say that, you know, they're like, you know what I really like? None of this crap.
+
+[13:50] I really, you know, you know, DOP and the you know the n none of that crap that I like? Deep dish. You know, if I had to get like a non a non restaurant or artisanal pizza or whatever, I'd probably go to a pizzeria Uno too. Yeah. I've never you know, I've never been to Pizzeria Uno.
+
+[14:05] Is that similar to a Pizza Hut style? No, it's like it's you know, their whole thing is like Chicago style deep dish. But I guess uh it's a level above the Pizza Huts of the world. Well, I mean, y I would guess. Like I mean, like yeah, uh too hard.
+
+[14:17] Yeah, but no offense to Pizza Hut. No offense. Offense, it's terrible. Or offense. Yeah.
+
+[14:23] Yeah, yeah. You know, uh, someone sent me, you know, because everyone here who's heard the past couple of episodes knows what I feel about Subway and their new flat pizza crap. Someone sent me that there's a new chain that's gonna come out with a pizza cake. Yeah, I saw that's like eight layers of pizza. It looks like deep dish.
+
+[14:40] But it's like deep cr I mean, like first of all, people listen, people, people, people. Deep dish pizza works for one reason only. It's not like a crust, it's bread. It's freaking bread, right? Right?
+
+[14:53] And when you make a deep dish pizza, and I know this because even though I'm not a consumer of deep dish pizza, I did deliver Domino's pizza for a whole summer. Driver. The summer, yeah, yeah. Uh I drove my mom's car with empty plates on it. So it was, you know, I I was 60 miles an hour all the time.
+
+[15:06] This was back when they used to actually still guarantee the delivery times. And like they would tell the drivers, listen, don't speed, don't break any traffic regulations. But on the other hand, get the freaking pizza there on time. Get it there on time. And they would give you like three pizzas to do in one run.
+
+[15:22] I was never late. This is I mean, like you know, you this is why they should not let teenagers drive. Anyways, uh so you pre bake those suckers and that's how you get them to work by pre baking the deep dish thing and then adding the stuff so you get a layer of baked bread so you don't have that nasty soggy nonsense in the uh where the topping, you know, meets the meets the pizza. Now, 'cause otherwise it would be a nightmare. Imagine.
+
+[15:44] Imagine, Stas, that you have like sauce against a thick thing that wasn't pre-baked at all. That's a that's a nightmare. Mm-hmm. Right. So do you like the grease spray that they put on the bottom of those pans to get the deep dish stuff?
+
+[15:55] Did they do that in Chicago? They have like the layer of grease. It's is it baked in a pan? Yeah, but I really don't remember eating. Yeah.
+
+[16:02] Anywho, uh, so the point is that if you're doing it in a big cake format, how the hell are you gonna get to cook right unless you cook them all individually? Like flash cook them, then layer them and then recook them at the end. But even like an old school, like an Italian, like a pasticcio, like a pasticcio allepre or something like a like la rabbit pie with like the raised sides on it and stuff, like in Bujali's old book. Like, I don't think that has lots of paid, you know, dough layers in the middle of it, does it? I don't know.
+
+[16:30] I don't think so. I don't think so. I think it's a I think it's a nightmare of an idea. But we'll see. I mean, I'm willing to try a thin slice.
+
+[16:36] I mean, who first of all, who wants pizza in that format? Who wants to eat pizza with a fork except Bill De Blasio? Yeah. You know? All right.
+
+[16:45] Um, okay. So uh also I was researching somebody's uh question. What do we did? I miss something. No, oh yes.
+
+[16:51] Uh Mofed is having its second blowout benefit on Wednesdays, the seventh seventh, which is a Wednesday. Yeah. Uh May 7th. And uh we have an incredible uh series of chefs coming in, and there are still tickets available. Go to Mofed.org.
+
+[17:10] Uh, because they have a link directly off the thing now, right? Yeah. It's expensive. You guys wish you had gone to the original one that Nastasha and I threw and stupidly only charged $250 for it, which is crazy. Yeah.
+
+[17:22] Like you could not buy that meal anywhere near $250. That was nuts. Like the value on that was crazy. We're the dumbest two people that there, at least that are sitting in this radio station right now. Oh, by the way, speaking of speaking of dumb, uh, did you notice that uh now that the weather's nice, Roberta's finally put up a freaking awning outside?
+
+[17:37] Oh, I was like, wait, what the hell? Does that make any goddamn sense? No. It had to happen sometime. It's it's the one day you don't need a freaking awning is right now.
+
+[17:47] And there it is. And there it is. It's not an awning, it's uh like a it's a winter door, a winter. It's like a winter vestibule thing. Yeah, not an awning.
+
+[17:54] It's like a winter vestibule. It may rain a lot. That's but there's a there's the inside thing, uh it's just a nightmare. And you know what? They put the thing up, but don't they still have the ratty curtain or do they get rid of the ratty curtain?
+
+[18:05] They have the ratty curtain. So, like the thing about Robert is, right, is that everything is kind of like, and I say this with love complete love, Jack. Right. I don't know about it. No, but I'm saying, I just so you know, I want you to vouch for this.
+
+[18:16] Everything's put together with kind of like with duct tape spit and bubblegum. Yes. Rap. And they're kind of like, hey, we want a dining room, I'll just get some tinker toys and glue this crap together, and we'll have a dining room, and somehow it works for them, and it's great, right? So, like uh typical Roberta style, when you walk in to prevent the wind from like killing everyone at the front, they have a ratty curtain, which you know, it was nice probably when it started, but it turned ratty and they kept it, and that was kind of the charm.
+
+[18:41] And so they kept the ratty curtain and added the vestibule. What's up with that? Any thoughts, Jack? All I can say is when it's busy here at night, that the spillover, maybe maybe it'll help the waiting people waiting. Who the hell wants to wait in a vestibule?
+
+[18:54] I hate waiting in a vestibule. A warm summer night, you want to be in a vestibule. Yeah, cramped in a vestibule with a bunch of hipsters. Nice for winter. By the way, Mike Booker and Dax were like, Dad, what's a hippie?
+
+[19:05] Oh. Ooh. Did you see there was a Jesus contest on Sunday? No. Yeah.
+
+[19:11] Well, we're running a little far afield here. Okay. So uh so I was researching a question that I'm gonna read you in a second. Should we ever get to questions here on the show? And uh I came across uh this uh this paper, which I will just read you the abstract of because if you're like me, you read a lot of uh abstracts of articles, and and I like abstracts of review articles, but somehow this one captured my attention, so I'm gonna read it to you.
+
+[19:33] Applications and function of food grade phosphates by uh Lucina Lampila, the Department of Food Science in the Louisiana Sea Grant College program, LSU Ag Center, Baton Rouge, Louisiana. LSU, that's for Pat. Yeah? Yeah. Go Pat.
+
+[19:48] That's uh not Pat the Patriots, that's Pat uh Nastasha's friend. Uh food grade phosphates are used in the production of foods to function as buffers, sequestrants, acidulants, bases, flavors, cryoprotectants, gel accelerants, dispersants, nutrients, precipitants, and as free flow, anti-caking or ion exchange agents. The actions of phosphates affect the chemical leavening of cakes, cookies, pancakes, muffins, and donuts, the even melt of processed cheese, the structure of a frankfurter, the bind and hydration of delicatessen meats, the fluidity of evaporated milk, the distinctive flavor of cola beverages, the free flow of spice blends, the mineral content of isotonic beverages, and the light color of par fried potato strips. Hell yeah! That is an article I want to read about me.
+
+[20:33] Some phosphates. That's selling the phosphates. Am I right, Jack? Yeah, it sounds pretty good. Hell yeah.
+
+[20:38] I'm like, phosphates. What? And they use phosphates to make them uh more acidic, to make them more basic. It's like phosphates and everything. And this article starts from like mining rocks out of the ground to like all of those kind of things.
+
+[20:50] So if you like a review article like I like a review article, go check out Lucina Lampila's applications and functions of food grade phosphates. Available at any, you know, major uh academic library near you. You know, this could be like a regular segment on the show. You review a paper like that, you know? Yeah?
+
+[21:08] Yeah, that was a pretty good review right there. Yeah, well, check this one out. This one, the paper's not so interesting, but uh it this has to have lost something in translation. So if I were to ask you uh what a spent chicken is, Stas and Jack, what do you think a spent chicken is? Overdone or the remains of I I don't know.
+
+[21:28] Yeah, that's what I thought. I thought it was like they had a bunch of like, you know, like part like partially defatted fatty meat product or like mechanically deboned. Like that's what I thought they meant spent chicken was. No, no. A spent chicken is a chicken that's been laying eggs for like, you know, its entire like laying lifetime, however many months they allow it before it stops laying eggs effectively.
+
+[21:48] That's what they mean is a spent chicken. So they're tougher, right? And like they're really good for things like soups and stews, but I guess these guys are trying to find uh you know other uses for it. So here's this article. I'll just gonna read the title for you and tell you what they did.
+
+[22:02] It's by uh Anchor Das and uh Dilip Ron John et al. Uh Dilip Ron John Nath et al. And it's uh studies on certain quality attributes of meat pickle prepared from spent chicken. Wow. You know what they do?
+
+[22:16] They pressure cook and then they pressure cook in vinegar and deep fry with spices, chicken until it has so little moisture and and like so high acidity that it can just sit out on a shelf for 90 days without anything happening to it. But you like when was the last time you uh hankered for a spent chicken pickle? And in the article they call them spent chicken pickle, which is I think a really good band name. What do you think, Jack? You can start a band called Spent Chicken Pickle?
+
+[22:40] I'll have to talk to Joe about that. Yeah. Speaking of which, what was that music we had at the beginning? Oh, it's a band called Snow Mine. Yeah, it's a strange combination of weepy and optimistic at the same time.
+
+[22:50] Can I disclose something funny on the air very quickly? The um the bassist in that band, the drummer rather, was my my butt, my orientation palette, NYU. And he was dating at the time a girl named Stephanie Germinata, who was one of our classmates. Yeah, exactly. She went on to be Lady Gaga.
+
+[23:05] Oh, really? Yeah. Her name is Germanato? Germinata. Stephanie Germanata.
+
+[23:10] Yeah, so any skinny on that? I mean, I didn't like her band in college. Whoa! Jack's like, well, you know, I I heard her band in college. I wasn't a fan.
+
+[23:19] I wasn't. I wasn't. I just wasn't a fan. I just didn't, you know. I thought it was derivative work.
+
+[23:24] Kind of. Oh, musicians. Dear Dave, Nastasha, Jack et al. Thank you for your assistance with my last question on Sou Vied fried chicken. I haven't tried it since then, but your description of the problem with my process seems spot on.
+
+[23:37] Uh and this is the question, by the way, that I was researching and found phosphates and all sorts of other things. I did fried chicken for for Easter. Yeah, I told you about that lady at the Right Aid, right? No, maybe. I'm at the I'm at the right aid, like, you know, in February, and like they had Easter crap out.
+
+[23:52] She's like, Easter, ain't even Valentine's Over yet. Not Valentine's Day. Valentine, like it's a time of day. Ain't even Valentine's Over yet. Anyway, uh, I did fried chicken for Easter.
+
+[24:03] So whenever I say Easter now, I have to say fo Easter. Uh, and attempted to deep fry some bread and butter pickle chips to snack on. Bread and butter pickle chips. You like the bread and butter pickle, does? Uh no.
+
+[24:15] Really? Do you like any pickles? Uh yeah, I like really hard ones. But you don't like sweet pickles? Yeah.
+
+[24:21] But not bread and butter chips. No, no. No chips. Do you like so what type of sweet pickle do you like? The thin, small, crunchy suckers?
+
+[24:28] Small, crunchy. What are your thoughts on the bread and butter pickle, Jack? Sorry, I got distracted. Bread and butter pickle? Like 'em?
+
+[24:34] Hate 'em? Yeah, I like them. Yeah. Relish, you like relish? Nope.
+
+[24:37] No? No? Really? What about tartar sauce? No.
+
+[24:41] What? Really? What do you put on your on your fried uh on your like, you know, New England style fried seafood platters? I don't get that. You don't like fried seafood platters?
+
+[24:51] Let me tell you something, people. If you go to like the average, you know, clam shack on the in the ocean, like I like lambjacks. I don't like the food. Okay. But if you go to them, right, with the exception of like real East Coast lobster roll, which is decent, right?
+
+[25:07] If you're given a choice, they always have some crap called like the Admiral platter or something like this. You know what I mean? Always get it fried. The broiled is a huge mistake. Huge.
+
+[25:18] You don't like fried clams? Even with bellies on, the fresh ones? I don't like I don't like seafood. What do you like seafood? I mean, I like seafood fried seafood or cooked seafood.
+
+[25:30] I like a lobster roll. I don't like lobster. What the hell? See, fried seafood for me, I'd rather do like lemon on it than uh tartar sauce. Really?
+
+[25:40] Yeah, isn't that weird? Like just lemon? Yeah. Do you like mayonnaise on your french fries? Nope.
+
+[25:45] What the mean? Stas does. Well, you don't like french fries, freak show. Uh okay. Uh I used a flour, buttermilk, flour process, which is similar to the one I use for uh for chicken, and found that the flour generally rubs off quite a bit from the pickles after the buttermilk dip, leaving them partially unbreaded.
+
+[26:03] Still delicious, but I think they'd be better with evenly adhered breading. Do you have a surefire way to get good even breading adhesion for fried pickles? Thank you for your help, and I can't wait for my Searzal, Jeff Mays, Los Angeles, California. What are yours, does? Los Angeles.
+
+[26:17] So, um, here's the uh here's the deal. So uh I cheat. So look the old school like low-tech weight. The problem you're having is uh the high moisture content is creating like a lack of adhesion of the uh batter. So you're getting some sloth off probably right at the beginning.
+
+[26:36] I I I don't know whether you patted the pickle chips uh really, really dry before you started, uh before you did your first uh pre-dust. But I'll typically do that to to dry because I've done a bunch of uh I I used to do uh a lot of uh fried pickles, you know, uh, and I would dry them off a little bit. If that's not enough, you might even want to try letting them sit on a rack for a little while just to flash off some of their extra moisture, because what you're most likely dealing with here is a moisture control problem. Now, because every you know, all I've ever learned about batter adhesion tells me that you want uh the surface to be you know tacky and dry when you start. Now, of course, you know, going against that is the style that they do here and the pot pies and thighs style of fried chicken where they literally take it out of the brine and throw it right into the flour.
+
+[27:20] But you know, I've never I've never tested everything I've learned has said that in high moisture situations there's adhesion problems and also problems when you're frying of what's called blow off, where chunks of the batter will will pop off during the cooking or sloth off or not adhere properly to the food. Okay, so if if it's not adhering beforehand, there are a couple things you can do. You can add uh special I don't do this, but you can add uh specialty starches to the uh mix. So uh like a batter bind or uh there's another one that's uh used that's actually not sold by Modernist Pantry and not made by National Starch, it's made by the other corporation. Uh its name slips my mind right now.
+
+[27:59] But that you can add that will um and they're usually I think they use some form of oxidized starch because they're uh I think they're pre-I think they're pre-done oxidized starches, are usually what they're used in the in the uh batter adhesion ones. Uh but I don't really remember why. I just remember they're oxidized starches. And um those will increase adhesion uh dramatically. And so, you know, I was looking last night at some um at some microscope uh microscopy and also just cross-sectional uh things of different uh pre-dusts containing either nothing, control flour as a pre-dust, uh containing um uh methylcellulose uh and containing um oxidized starch, and the oxidized starch, sure enough, were like they were awesome uh in terms of adhesion.
+
+[28:44] So you can try adding a modified product like that to it, uh, or you can do the really old-fashioned way if you don't mind having a heavy batter coating on it. A lot of times for difficult things like okra, which tends to slip off a lot, like okra, even though it's got hair on the you like fried okra styles? Uh I haven't had it, I don't think. Oh my god. Jack, what about fried okra?
+
+[29:02] One of the few things I don't love, but I'll eat it. It's a little slimy. Oh, I'm not talking okra chopped up in a gumbo, I'm talking fried whole okra pods. You had it? Yeah, yeah.
+
+[29:11] I not fried. I've had whole okra pods, but not fried. All right, listen. Uh slimy. Listen, listen, listen, listen, listen, listen, listen, listen, listen.
+
+[29:20] When you're when you're like okay, you need to come over. We need to make you some fried whole okra because they're not they're only slimy when the stuff on the inside kind of escapes. When it stays on the inside of its own pod, right, when you're frying it, it I mean it still is what it is, but it doesn't have the feeling of sliminess because if the outside is like super crunchy, the fried, the fried okra on the outside, and you want to you want like a thick, crunchy breading layer on this. The outside and the inside is like melting and soft, but does not come off as slimy at all. And they're great.
+
+[29:57] The trick with it is is again, do not cut them at all. Leave them whole. And make sure when you're shopping for okra pods in the store, assuming that you don't have your own okra uh plants, um, you wanna a lot of times, especially where I live, they pre-package the okra in like little styro packs. You want to feel the uh okra pods because uh they start at a certain point the okra pods start getting woody on the outside uh and then you can feel them. You can feel the ones that are tender and the ones that are less tender, and just stay away from the ones that are less tender because you're not gonna be cooking them a long time like in a in a gumbo or a soup.
+
+[30:32] You're just gonna be frying them really quickly, so you want them to cook really quickly. So make sure you're starting with tender okra pods, bread those things and fry them, and that is some delicious stuff. And I've never had even I've had people who hate okra, and I've never had someone come back and say, you know what, like uh crap on that, that's not delicious, because that stuff's inherently delicious. But back to what I was saying, surprisingly, you would think that okra would have good adhesion, but it doesn't because it doesn't pick up pre-dusts well. Like the f the flour pre-dust that you put uh in a typical I mean uh everything depends on what kind of uh batter technology you're using.
+
+[31:06] So there's people who do pre-dust and then in a liquid flour batter, I don't do that. I do pre-dust into liquid, uh, then into a solid again. That's typically what I do. Um, but if if you're the pre-dust does not adhere at all to okra. So what you do is you do a pre-dust, a marginal amount of sticks, then you do your wet, then you do your solid, and it picks up some but still isn't coated, and then you do a quick rewet and then a quick quick solid again, at which point you have a nice thick, thick batter coating.
+
+[31:33] And if you don't mind having that thick of a coating, the double do on it always makes it stick to all to any damn thing. You're never gonna get it. And that's what I do on, especially on products that have a high uh high rate of melt outs like mozzarella sticks. Do you like fried mozzarella sticks at least? No.
+
+[31:48] Jesus. Jack, fried mozzarella sticks? Yes. Okay. Come on.
+
+[31:53] What the hell's wrong with these people? Um not you, Jack. You just saved yourself with that one. Fried mozzarella sticks. Do you like um do you like uh grilling cheese like uh queso parfouriera or halloumi?
+
+[32:03] No. Grilled. You had it? Really? I don't think I've had it.
+
+[32:07] No, I know I've had it. I don't have an opinion on it. You don't like grilled cheese? Like grilled cheese delicious hot and it turns squeaky when it gets cold. I hate squeaky cheese.
+
+[32:14] Yes, yes, yes. Well, that's why you gotta eat it when it's hot. That's why you eat it when it's hot. Eat it while it's hot, eat it while it's hot. So the um anywho, so uh I would I would use that.
+
+[32:23] I would do that. So if you don't want to do the double dip, which is inherently going to get it, then the the you know the next thing to do uh in terms of ease is uh partial uh pat down of them beforehand and dehydrate not your pat pat down and uh partial dehydration. Uh not not not so that they lose their crunchiness, just so that they're a little bit you know dry, a little bit pellicle formed on the outside. And then the next step up from that in technological difficulty is to add uh some modified starch to the uh pre-dust or to use a modified starch as the pre-dust. Uh and one of those things should help you out.
+
+[32:55] Yeah? Yeah. Uh okay. Um that make sense. Yep.
+
+[33:02] I love frying. Do you know that I have to I had to decommission my fryer? Did I tell you that? Did I say that in the air? Well, it wasn't a leak.
+
+[33:10] Did I tell us on the air? Did I talk about this? Uh I have to get around it. I have to get around it. You only have yeah, today's a short one.
+
+[33:18] I don't, yeah, my god. Okay. Uh question uh I don't have who the question is from. I hate that. Okay, uh, hey Dave, Nastasha, Jack et al.
+
+[33:27] I'm a big fan of the show. Finally caught up with all the back episodes a few weeks ago. Question number one. My wife and one of my daughters have a gluten intolerance after much gluten-free baking experimentation. My wife has found the most success using recipes for baking mixes from the gluten free on a shoestring blog.
+
+[33:43] HDTP, glutenfree on a shoestring.com. All purpose gluten-free flour recipes forward slash. Uh one of the keys for a palatable texture in baked goods is using uh these mi uh in uh baked good using these mixes is a super fine uh brown rice flour and a super fine white rice flour. Buying the super fine version of either of these flours is rather expensive. The best super fine rices uh we have found are from authenticfoods uh com.
+
+[34:10] But a regular rice flour results in a gritty product. Yeah, regular rice flour kind of sucks. Um we have tried using both our crappy blender uh and our food processor to grind a regular version of these rice flours to a finer consistency, but are not happy with the results. Uh Vitamix is already at the top of my kitchen wish list. Uh is that gonna be the best tool to use?
+
+[34:28] Would some kind of mill uh be better? Um that's Chip Smith. What's Chipsmith? That's his name of the Oh, hey Chipsmith. Uh I was like, I was like, I was like, that sounds awesome.
+
+[34:39] Shout out, Jackson, so we're not in the commercial. Shout out to John Riper. Oh, yeah. Just because do you want to do it? Like, do you want me to answer this question?
+
+[34:45] You want to do the quick commercial so that we get our get our bizzles paid? And then all right, let's do it. Why don't pass is the only farm in the United States that has its own USDA inspected red meat abattoir or slaughterhouse. And it's own USDA inspected poultry abattoir, a slaughterhouse. We partner with Whole Foods to deliver our high quality meat and poultry from Miami, Florida, all the way to Princeton, New Jersey.
+
+[35:13] One family, one farm, five generations, 145 years. A full circle return to sustainable land stewardship, humane animal stockmanship. For more information, please visit our website, White Oak Pastures.com. And we're back. Hey Jack, I had a question for you.
+
+[35:33] Yeah. Do you know of any farm that has its own USDA inspected uh red meat abattoir? Yeah, they also happen to have uh one of the best voiceover talents in the game working there. I know that like that guy like owns that. He owns it.
+
+[35:45] He owns it. Will Harris. We have our own red meat abattoir. I would buy I would buy red meat from that man. Yeah, right.
+
+[35:53] It's available at Whole Foods. They're the only five plus star-rated uh poultry at Whole Foods. They don't they don't have it at My Whole Foods. What Whole Foods do they have it at? I'll have to get back to you on that, but but check.
+
+[36:03] Because my son, Booker, the older one, is obsessed with animal welfare ratings. That's awesome. He's upset. So he's like, he like the Whole Food the Here's the mistake the Whole Foods made, right? So those of you that don't shop at Whole Foods, uh, if you go to the Whole Foods, uh they in their meat counters and in the in the cases on the side, not on processed goods, usually like Salumi, like LaQuerch, and all that stuff that they carry, which whatever we won't talk about that.
+
+[36:26] But the um on all of their kind of fresh meat goods, they put animal welfare ratings on it. The problem is this they start at one and then go to five plus, with one being the lowest grade that Whole Foods accepts, but it's still, you know, from an animal welfare standpoint, better than nothing. Right. You know what I'm saying? So they what they made him like the tactical error, I think, is that they and a lot of the stuff they have is ones.
+
+[36:53] A lot of it. You know what I mean? Like the majority is ones. And like, don't you think they should have like made it from like a one to like seven? Yeah.
+
+[36:59] And then not and then not bought one and two. And being like, Whole Foods only buys three, four, five, six, and seven. Yo. You know what I'm saying? Three will be the new one.
+
+[37:10] Well, they they work with it. We've done some cool coverage on this actually. Um and they work with the producers to kind of get them from one to five plus. So it's like by bringing them on board, they're like, okay, you're good enough, you're a one, we can sell you, and we're gonna help you get to a five plus. Right.
+
+[37:24] I mean, because yeah, there's like you know, there's different reasons to get into different aspects of um of um you know uh sustainable and or small farming, right? And one is that one is that you just don't like the way animals are treated in large farms, right? Right? They don't like the way they're treated, you don't like the way they're slaughtered. Regardless of taste, whether it tastes better or not, uh regardless of uh, you know, whatever, you're willing to pay more to have an animal that has been kind of treated well.
+
+[37:54] And uh yeah, five plus is the highest, and I believe that means that not only is it like animal centered, pasture centered, but it lives its whole life on the one farm, right? And is never taken off. And that's why they're probably the only people can do it, because they never have to ship their animals off site. I think he's done. Right.
+
+[38:12] He's like, I don't care anymore. No, sorry, somebody walked in. Oh yeah. You know, I think that's why though. Anyway, uh all right, they're gonna kick us off.
+
+[38:17] So let me answer this question uh soon. Uh Vitamix, uh I don't like grinding flour in uh a Vitamix. Because I'll tell you why. It's a huge mess and it like throws particles up in the inside, and then when you open the thing, you're inhaling rice flour particles. I've done it.
+
+[38:31] Food processors uh don't work as as you say. Uh I do not recommend, I don't know if you asked it. The only mill I've ever owned it uh like grinding mill is uh the KitchenAid makes a um a uh grain mill that you can attach to um to a Kitchen aid and it grinds things but I can't I'd love to recommend it and I really want it to be awesome but it's not uh like it's just not it's not doesn't cr produce a very very fine flour it's extremely slow it tends to heat things up um and I have I myself have never used a mill that I uh liked especially if you're gonna be grinding large quantities uh of something I've also tried using coffee mills to do uh grinding with uh not too much success so far I tried using you know those hand cranked um oh what's the Japanese name I forget uh anyway the one that we all have to do manual grinding I tried to grind a bunch of bean flour in that and that was a ruddy mess too so um I'm sorry to say that uh I you know there are ones out there and I'm but I I hesitate to recommend any of them because I haven't used them but go look for a high quality uh grain mill I would say don't get the KitchenAid uh grain mill for this application KitchenAid grain mill works great for and of course you don't care because you're doing gluten-free stuff but like when I was doing uh all grain brewing to break up uh to break up barley it's great for coarser things it's great but like if you're doing a especially if you're gonna do a lot of grains other than rice anything that has a high oil content the KitchenAid's gonna uh seize up on you so I'll try to look in more and get uh more recommendations for you for uh the next time around or if anyone please wants to send me some um grain mill recommendations into at cooking issues on the Twitter. I will gladly pass them on. Not next week's show, because next week I will be in uh I will be flying uh to France.
+
+[40:26] I'm gonna visit the Carthusian monks who make one of my favorite beverages, a chartreuse. Um You're not gonna be here next week? No, I'm not gonna be in France. But I'm not but I'm not gonna be usually when I'm in when I'm in another country I can call in and say something, but the You'll be on a plane. I'll be on a plane.
+
+[40:42] Uh and I think I'll be on a plane. I'll have to look up where I am because unfortunately my travel both times is on a Tuesday. So if I can do it next week, I will call in because I don't want to miss two weeks. Do you know what I'm saying? Yeah.
+
+[40:54] Um but I had one more thing on grain before. Oh, uh for inexpensive supply of very fine grain rice flour, go to Asian markets. Don't go to your standard uh, you know, uh, you know, Western supermarket. You can get really, really inexpensive, extremely fine-grained rice flours at uh Asian supermarkets. So if you live anywhere near one, um you can go get it and you can get I mean, obviously they sell what's called glutinous rice flour.
+
+[41:21] It doesn't really have gluten in it because it's rice flour, and they sell various grades and types of rice flours along with many other gluten-free uh like strange flours, like yam flowers and whatnot. And they're dirt cheap. They're on the level of price of AP flour. But I do uh think that you know you should look into getting a mill of your own. I just don't happen to have a decent recipe.
+
+[41:41] So uh I will answer your next question. Uh the next time we are on, and it's an interesting one, Stas. I want you to think about this. Uh I'll read the question, but then since we don't have the time, I will not answer it. Uh I'm a big fan of pasta putinesca.
+
+[41:54] You like that? Even though it has a name that you don't like, or do you it's okay? But you don't like the name. No, you don't like the name. Nastas doesn't like names like that.
+
+[42:02] Uh, I usually make more than uh what I will eat at one meal because I like having it the next day as cold pasta. Do you like colpaza? No. At all? What about like American pasta style?
+
+[42:13] Even though it's got mayonnaise on it? All right. Uh Jack, you don't like the pasta salad because it's got the mayonnaise. I feel a mayonnaise. That's right.
+
+[42:19] I do like cold pasta though. Yeah. Generally, yeah. What about like what about how do you guys feel about like cold sesame noodles? Those things are delicious.
+
+[42:24] Oh, yeah, delicious. No, no. She's like, no, no. She's like, she's it's not the vegan face. It's like the head pressed as far back into her neck as possible, head rapidly shaking back and forth.
+
+[42:34] No, no, no, no, no, no, no. Uh something I've noticed about eating it the next day when it is cold or at room temperature, I need to add salt. What's the deal? Is the colder temperature changing how I perceive the flavors that much? Thanks.
+
+[42:46] Well, that is an interesting and I think more complicated than uh you would think. Um question. So we'll get to it next time, but the hints are that your perception of all flavors, most flavors, change uh with temperature. How they relate to each other change with temperature, but also the food itself might be changing due to adsorption of salt absorption of salt into the pasta over the course of the night. So we'll talk about these various effects the next time on cooking issues.
+
+[43:18] Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization.
+
+[43:43] To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by White Oak Pastures, a five generation Georgia based beef and poultry farm determined to conduct business in an honorable manner. For more information, visit Whiteoak Pastures dot com. I'm Grace Bonnie of After the Jump, and you're listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick, Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. And we are back.
+
+[0:34] Hello, and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cookie coming to you live, but not from Roberta's Jack. Jack, you there? I'm here. Jack is in Roberta's Pizzeria hanging out at the radio station.
+
+[0:44] Unfortunately, I uh I have to call in. But I didn't want to miss again. Nastasha's also calling in. Hey Staz. Hey, how are you?
+
+[0:51] All right, where are you? You're in uh midtown somewhere. They're over there in the old kitchen, uh, the layer of N. Nastasha tried moving downtown once and she couldn't handle the downtown air and she can't basically survive anywhere other than in Hell's Kitchen. It's pretty much true, Stas.
+
+[1:04] Very true. Yeah. Yeah. So how are you doing? How am I drinking?
+
+[1:09] Well, I'm not so eh, meh. I'll be all right. Uh but uh yeah, next time we'll do it in in the in the in the radio in the radio show. It's been a crazy couple of weeks. The first two weeks, uh I was like literally flying on Tuesday and Tuesday, and so you know, we couldn't do the radio show.
+
+[1:29] Uh and then uh the week after that, last week, I was uh doing foie gras, which we can talk about uh I was shooting a foie gras thing for vice. We were talking about the um Floie Gras ban in California that uh was passed a long time ago, but just went into uh effect about a year and a half ago. And so they were doing a uh kind of a documentary on uh government intervention in food in foodstuffs, uh focused mainly on we're focused a hundred percent on the on the foie gras thing. But I actually got to visit when I was in France a foie gras uh farm where they were doing the gavage on geese. Yeah, saw the force feeding.
+
+[2:05] The lady would not f attempt to force feed me. She would I asked. I specifically said, Hey, can you stick that tube down my throat and do it? She's like, No. No, she wouldn't do it.
+
+[2:14] Can you believe that stuff? You would have done it. Yeah. You totally would have shoved that tube down my throat. Yeah.
+
+[2:22] Yeah. Yeah. Um but anyway, uh anyone out there with a question? Call in your question. It's 27184972128.
+
+[2:28] That's 7184972128, which is exactly what I just did. I just called my question in to you. Seven one well, I can't remember I can't remember the number. It's been so damn long since we've done it. But anyway, uh I could we could not miss another week.
+
+[2:39] It's been too too long. So let me get to some of the questions that we had written in for uh last week. Brandon Byrd wrote in on uh vacuum. Maybe later we could talk about foie gras. You want to talk about foie gras later on?
+
+[2:51] Sure. All right. Anything else? Anything else been happening? Anything good, anything bad?
+
+[2:56] Um no. Nothing. Nothing we should talk about on the radio. Yeah, yeah, yeah. That's not meant to sound ominous, people.
+
+[3:03] Anyway, uh Brandon Byrd wrote in, not like Brendan Byrne Arena, Brandon Byrd uh wrote in uh about vacuum uh mach uh vacuum machines, uh searing, uh, and Jack, you might want to take note. I'll I'll tell you the last thing he wrote. He said, please ask Jack to play Seltzer by Bluto. It's one of my favorites, someone who actually likes the seltzer song, Jack. Wow, you're gonna have to give it to me.
+
+[3:26] I don't have the Master Bluetooth copy. No. Oh, yeah, that's right. You played it off my phone that time, right? Yeah, we gotta get that in the rotation.
+
+[3:33] Yeah. Wow. First real Bluetooth real Pluto super fan. Yeah, yeah. Well, I mean, like, you know, that's the whole theory of that song is that and I don't have that problem anymore because for it like this is why like the song is no longer current.
+
+[3:46] I mean, I wrote I wrote those those lyrics uh along with our band in like nineteen uh ninety or something, uh ninety ninety no no, like ninety one, ninety two, something like that. And so uh the deal was back then that you know you had to buy your seltzer in bottles and then you have the bottle that's left in the fridge. I don't know if we look, I'm sure many many people who listen here probably drink seltzer, right? I mean, that's probably fair that a lot of us drink bubbly water uh because you know, if you like me, you probably like bubbly water. Except my mom doesn't.
+
+[4:16] My mom doesn't like bubbly water. But anyways, point being that back in the day, for those of you that are old enough to not have a soda stream or uh or a carbonation unit, you had to buy bottles of seltzer. And the problem always was is that you had and in Jack, do you like seltzer? Of course. Yeah.
+
+[4:33] Stas, I know you like seltzer. You buy it in what? How many liters bottle do you buy it in? Liter. One liter.
+
+[4:39] Why don't you buy a two-liter bottle of seltzer? Yeah, because it goes freaking flat. Unless I know I'm gonna make a lot of it. But uh seltzer, even though you drink vastly more seltzer than you drink soda, you always buy it in one liter bottles, and that's because it it does taste horrible when it goes when it goes flat. But this is so the whole song is crafted around this idea.
+
+[5:07] And I remember like I would buy cases of seltzer, and then someone would come over and they're like, Can I have some seltzer I just line a little bit? And I would all be always pissed because as soon as I crack that bottle, that bottle's ruined. You know, it's over. You know what I mean? It's like it's done.
+
+[5:19] And so uh yeah, so that song was basically about that the whole phenomenon of of uh seltzer going to crap in your fridge. Dave, if this all goes well, can we host the Bluetooth reunion conversation? I have to find all the I mean, I know I know uh where I know where two out of the three other folks in Bluto are. Uh one of them is still in New Haven. Uh one of them is uh a lawyer here, and uh I've got to find the third person.
+
+[5:47] He was a classics uh student at the time, and for all I know he's a classics professor now. He could find him. Well, if the listener demand goes up enough, we might just have to make it happen. Yeah, yeah. RuPa plays Seltzer Live.
+
+[5:59] Be awesome. Um that was just our one food related song. It was actually we had another song with a slightly food related thing called uh Weekend at Count Sporculas. Because sporks are awesome, as everyone knows. Anyway, uh they're actually not awesome, like you love the like sports are one of those things where everyone loves the idea of the spork, but the spork itself is always disappointing.
+
+[6:19] Have you noticed that? Yeah. Yeah. Kind of like gin and tonics where like the idea is so awesome, but most of them suck. Someone's gonna come up with a good spork someday.
+
+[6:27] Anyways, um back to uh Brandon Bird's question. Uh thanks so much for your hard work over the years on the show. I've been a reader of the blog for a while, but only recently took it upon myself to listen to the podcast. I had no idea what I've been missing. So that's like I do.
+
+[6:39] I've had to listen to every damn podcast live. Like it's even worse. Like she can't even although she does try to zone out, it's like much more difficult when you're actually sitting next to me. Am I right, Stuz? That's very true.
+
+[6:48] Yeah. Uh I've managed to listen to your first a hundred episodes over the past couple of months, which has some dedication right there. That is some dedication. Well, going on long walks with my dog, and it's been a tremendously rewarding and entertaining experience. I've learned more than I've ever imagined from your show, so please keep up the good work.
+
+[7:02] I've got a few questions for you guys. I recently acquired a chamber vacuum sealer, a Vacmaster VP 112, which by the way, uh is one of the machines, like the uh lower cost machines a lot of people ask me about. They have I've we've had stuff. How many people have asked me about that a lot, right? But I haven't used it, so I can't, you know, I I I can't I can't comment.
+
+[7:18] Anyway. And the first thing I did was buy some fruit and some booze to experiment with vacuum infusion. Good, good man. Uh I was extremely happy with the results, but was surprised by how much flavor from the fruit was transferred into the surplus liquor in the bag. I've done rapid infusions in an Easy canister, you know, the whipped cream canisters, but the results in the chamber vac seem to work comparably well to the EC infusions, though I didn't do a controlled test.
+
+[7:41] Have you done any experiments to see how these two techniques compare to each other in terms of flavor extraction? Do either offer advantages that the other lacks, and have you ever tried uh doing a pressure infusion in an ISI and then immediately transferring to a chamber of ac to get further extraction? Um, so let's handle that one first. So they are a little bit different. Uh and, you know, come November time when my book comes out, I've written like extremely long-winded uh uh, you know, um chapter on the difference between between the two of them, but you can get comparative comparable results.
+
+[8:14] And in fact, I came up with the the pressure infusion uh idea as a result of thinking about the mechanics of vacuum infusion. Here's the difference. When you're using a vacuum machine to infuse, you're putting uh a fruit or whatever into your booze, you're sucking a vacuum, and the infusion hasn't started happening yet, right? What you're doing is sucking the air out of the fruit. So the fruit's got all these air holes in it, you suck the air out, right?
+
+[8:38] But no infusion has happened. You might be now at some point you're boiling, probably, unless it's really cold, you're boiling some liquid out from the fruit onto the surface. So you're getting probably some transfer of literal fruit juice into the liquor at that point, like right at the get-go, right? But you're not infusing anything into the fruit yet. All of a sudden, you let the air back in and wham, the the air pressure comes in, obviously it hits liquid, liquid is incompressible, so the liquid gets forced into what used to be air holes in the uh fruit, and now you have liquid booze inside your fruit, right?
+
+[9:13] So now you have fruit that has uh some booze in it. Now, maybe some flavor uh in the in the liquor at this point, probably not that much. If you suck a second vacuum, you reboil that liquid out of the fruit, and now you have uh both a fruit that's infused and a liquor that's infused, right? And yes, this is similar to what you get in uh in an EC, but the issue is is that the pressure differential in a vacuum machine is only ever about 15 pounds per square inch. Whereas the pressure that you can use to force things in and actually increase the rate of uh of diffusion and uh the rate of things moving around is much higher in in in an EC bottle, right?
+
+[9:52] And they what I've noted is that the higher the pressure when I increase the pressure in an EC, the higher the pressure, the kind of more rapid the effects of infusion are. So you're getting a more rapid effect. So I would say that the EC is a lot more flexible because you have a wider pressure range you can work on. And it's also easier to do longer term things in an EC because you can keep it under pressure for uh a long time. And also uh you tend uh I would guess that you can do multiple EC things without losing as many volatiles as you would if you were sucking a constant vacuum on things, which can cause uh loss of volatiles through distillation.
+
+[10:28] So I think there's different, but they can be used uh they can be used similarly. Also, EC you can do warm, whereas a vacuum you can't. So you can speed infusions by doing things warm or even hot. And and another thing that they mean the dis the main disadvantage of the EC, right? There's two.
+
+[10:44] The two main disadvantages of the EC are one, you're limited in volume. You can only do what your uh canister will hold, right? That's the main one. And the second one is you have to spend money every time you do the infusion because you have to buy the cartridges. So those are the two main disadvantages.
+
+[11:03] The main disadvantage but for instance, if you're getting a comparable result in your EC to your vacuum, I would say, and you want more infusion, I would say, add an extra cartridge. Bang, you're gonna get more infusion. I normally do all of my infusions with two cartridges, all of them. Sometimes I do three, but they don't let me say that. And then uh uh you know, after that, I can also, instead of letting it go one, two, two minutes, I can let it go three, four, five minutes and really ramp up the the uh the infusion.
+
+[11:32] The reason I don't is most of the time when I'm doing a rapid infusion, I'm doing it specifically for the effect that it has, which means that what the rapid infusion does as opposed to traditional infusion is it uh it can pull out flavors uh in in different ways. It's hard to explain. So for instance, in uh in a hot pepper, uh you have the flavor of the pepper and then you have the heat from the pepper. In a long term infusion, you get a lot of the heat, and the heat a lot of times can drown out the flavor of the pepper, right? In a shorter infusion time, you get more kind of equal levels of heat and uh and pepper flavor, right?
+
+[12:10] So now I can do one of two things with the rapid infusion now. I can either uh let the rapid infusion go longer, and then it's more like a traditional infusion, which means it's gonna have more heat in it, right, uh as opposed to pepper flavor. So the heat will rise in relation to the pepper flavor, or I could just add a ridiculous amount of pepper and keep the time the same. And that's in general what I do. So when I'm trying to do rapid infusions, I'm usually trying to take advantage of some sort of uh differential infusion that happens over short time scales.
+
+[12:41] And so instead of increasing the time, um I increase the amount of ingredient that I'm infusing. So when you're tasting uh two things, you shouldn't just taste for the strength of the overall infusion, right, which can depend on a number of variables, but you should taste on the balance of the infusion as well. But uh vacuum and EC are doing somewhat similar if turned on their head kind of thing. Does that make that make sense, Doug? Yeah, that does.
+
+[13:06] All right. All right. Uh now, uh I have another question on vacuum sealing, garlic and botulism. This is a good one because we've gotten this one a couple times too. I usually do low temp sou v cooking for immediate service at home, but since I got a chamber vac, I've wanted to do cook chill freeze cooking for economy and deliciousness.
+
+[13:22] And time saving, my friend, time saving. Uh when my chamber vac arrived, I stocked up on chicken breasts that were on sale and cooked them at low temp at 62 for one hour with garlic, olive oil, and some oids. That's herbs that I like to pronounce it oids. Uh that's my standard technique for uh cook serve low temp chicken. I let them rest for 20 minutes at room temp and submerge them in cold tap water for 20, and then show them in ice water for 30 before moving to the freezer.
+
+[13:46] Man, somebody's really like read up on their faux gousot. That's the full gousot chilling technique, by the way. So for those of you that aren't like a hip to uh cooling curves on uh low temp work, uh you know, you and I thought this was a load of horse crap, but uh, you know, years ago when uh Bruno Gusot, who's uh the you know the chief one of the chief guys at uh cuisine solutions there and kind of the you know one of the uh grandfathers of uh low temp cooking, you know, he told me that you don't want to chill meat incredibly quickly when it comes out of the bath because you want it to reabsorb the liquids uh more that you want it to chill slowly because if it chills slowly it reabsorbs more of the cooking liquids that it exudes as it uh as it you know uh as it cooks it exudes liquids if it cools more slowly then it will put it back in and so he has this ramped cooling thing and Nils and I were like ah it's crap it's this crap and then we ran the test and it turns out to work. But anyway, so you've been doing your homework on the cooling. But anyway, uh it was only a few days later that I realized that there's a botulism risk cooking with garlic in a vacuum I'm reasonably sure that these are safe to heat but appreciate any clarifications you you could offer on the relationship between botulism temperature and vacuum levels.
+
+[14:52] Okay. I'm gonna say this before I get into a long-winded explanation uh so that someone might like lose track of what I'm saying it's fine. This is not a problem. The problem with uh bot botrulism will not grow in the freezer. Botulism will not grow at uh 60 degrees uh Celsius right so in when you're cooking the the problem with botulism is that uh botulism isn't botulism isn't destroyed by uh either freezing or by uh cooking at normal temperatures right so it it it won't you know you can kill the vegetative uh let me be more clear there's two things that happen uh there's vegetative cells active bacteria and then the reason that botulism is such a tricky little weasel to work with is that it also forms spores.
+
+[15:44] So whenever you start killing off botulism cells, uh botulism bacteria, rather. Whenever you start killing off botulism bacteria, uh some of them turn into spores. And those spores are extremely resistant to uh being uh destroyed by heat. You have to pressure cook to get rid of them. And that's why when you pressure cook something, all of a sudden it's shelf stable, right?
+
+[16:06] Okay, so uh and you're not gonna do that. So the the issue is is that uh as long as you uh heat it, right, you're not causing anything dangerous because you're cooking and destroying vegetative cells, and as long as you uh cool it and then keep it frozen and you did it a reasonable amount of time, there's no way for those spores to regerminate into vegetative cells, and then go from that stage to reproducing and producing uh toxin, right? So the long and the short of it is you're okay. The dangerous, the really dangerous thing would be to cook garlic. And the reason why everyone picks on garlic is because uh people a lot of times will throw garlic into oil.
+
+[16:50] Garlic has a fairly high water uh activity uh and it comes from the soil, so it's you know, and botulism is ubiquitous, means it's everywhere, but a lot of times in the soil you throw it into oil, the oil environment seals it off from oxygen, you have botulism growing on the garlic, and you know, you're done. Uh well, you could be done. That's why that's why it's always garlic and botulism, because it's common, you want to do it, it doesn't look dangerous, uh, etc. etc. Um so as long as you're doing this what you're saying, you're fine.
+
+[17:18] Now, if you were to uh store those suckers at room temperature, well, you could get hosed. You know what I mean? That's incredibly dangerous. But you can store there's there's nothing inherently dangerous about garlic in oil, as long as you're keeping everything at safe uh holding and storage temperatures. Make sense, Doug?
+
+[17:38] Yep. Alright. Uh okay. Um see. And final question.
+
+[17:43] I know that you like to sear low-tep meats in a scorching, scary hot pan. I've heard you mention the standard consumer range won't get quite hot enough to produce the level of sear that you prefer. True. Uh until my sear's all uh time my citers all arrives, I'm left searing a cast iron pan over either my grasp gas range or my gas grill, a Weber Genesis E330, uh, which I haven't used that one. Today I tried searing ribeyes, which is always a good call.
+
+[18:05] I love a rib, it's a good steak. That I brushed with clarified butter in a cast iron pan that I preheated on the grill for 20 minutes. My infrared gun style thermometer indicated the pan was 820 Fahrenheit when I put the steaks in. Immediately they smoked up like a bastard. It was intense.
+
+[18:19] What lipid, if any, do you coat your meat steaks with before searing? And do you have a preferred temperature range that you aim for? Thanks for the show and best witches, uh, Brandon Byrd. Okay. Uh yeah, it's gonna smoke like a bastard.
+
+[18:29] This is why like I, you know, like my wife uh gets angry sometimes, like when I like uh I'm not even gonna get it. One time I I bought a uh I think I told us on the show once, Stas. I tell us one on the show once where she like you did, yeah. Yeah. Well I was good, I'll do it really quickly.
+
+[18:44] It was her birthday, and uh I wanted to make some really good steaks, so I bought a charcoal, uh like a mini charcoal hibachi with stas. Did I ever end up giving that to you or is that one too burnt out? No, I think you no, yeah, yeah, I have it. Yes. Yeah.
+
+[18:57] And but Order, I maybe that's a different one. You got the you've got the little Joe that we got for the school. We tried to do the same thing at the school, remember? Right, yes. And everyone was all pissy about the smoke.
+
+[19:07] Why does everyone get so pissy about smoke? It's like everyone wants to be all like, you know, tough and like. As soon as there's a little bit of smoke, people get all whiny. You know what I mean? Very true.
+
+[19:17] That's so ridiculous. You know what I mean? It's like uh I don't know, don't think start it. I mean, look, I under look, I'm a firm believer in like air quality in general, and you know, some issues with uh I remember we I've talked about it a bunch of times, like that preliminary research years ago on uh cooking fumes uh from walks and women in China and increase uh levels of cancer cancer. But um whatever.
+
+[19:38] I'm not talking about that. I just I don't know why everyone is as soon as there's any smoke, people are like, it's smoky, it's smoky in the kitchen. How many times have you heard that in your life, Stas? So many. But then the fire extinct the fire or whatever thing goes off, you know.
+
+[19:50] Yeah, but why does everyone get so worried? And then like once the fire thing goes off, people get creepy and set off the fire alarm. Oh, you set off the smoke alarm. And he says he can cook. Yeah, yeah, yeah, right.
+
+[20:05] It was so freaking irritating. I was like, this is why your food tastes bad, because you're not willing to set off the damn smoke detector when you're cooking something. You know what I mean? See, I would rather take the hit and set off the smoke detector and have the steak taste good. So that's where my priorities are, right?
+
+[20:22] My priorities aren't with the the look, the uh uh okay, okay, I'm gonna backpedal a little bit. You can't piss off the people who are gonna eat so much that they're not gonna enjoy the food because then you're shooting yourself in the foot. It's all about the enjoyment of the food. But I just get so irritated that people can't people can't just yeah, I don't know, you know what I mean? It's just uh it's a constant source of irritation.
+
+[20:41] Jack, what do you think about this? I'm still tripped up on spores in that nostasia didn't really. Wait, what happened oh spoo spoo Yeah, Nastasha hates a spore. Anyway, uh so here's my thing. Yes, it's gonna smoke like a bastard.
+
+[20:57] That's just a fact of life. Uh you can't really measure the surface of your pan and get an accurate uh temperature of what's gonna happen because the temperature of the pan will probably drop fairly quickly once you put the meat on it. As for uh butt, it's good, it's a good it's good. I mean, uh mine usually are rocking somewhere around uh six fifty or higher. See, it depends.
+
+[21:18] Like cast iron at like seven hundred is thin, uh you're gonna get more char out of like a uh a giant stone rock at eight hundred. I mean, all depends on how fast it can it can uh deliver this stuff. So cast iron, I don't know. It that that should be fine. In other words, like that temperature should be fine, but it's gonna smoke, and you're gonna need more oil than you think.
+
+[21:38] What I typically do, I typically use olive oil, by the way. And what I will do is I'll uh put the pan on, I'll get it hot, I'll pour oil literally into the pan. It will immediately start smoking. Uh and you just want to be careful because it might ignite here. Carefully put the steak into the oil.
+
+[21:56] The reason is a pre-cooked steak, uh, it doesn't conform to the surface of a pan like a raw one does. So if you just brush with oil, you're liable to have blonde spots, whereas if you had like a good, you know, eighth inch or something in the bottom of your pan, you'll hit all of the points and you'll brown all the way across the thing. But uh just be aware it will catch on fire. Uh there will be flame and there will be smoke, and you should just tell whoever's looking at you and calling you incompetent to shut the hell up and sit down and get ready to eat the steak. That's just my feeling.
+
+[22:25] You know what I mean? Yep. Um you'll take a quick all right, we're gonna take a quick break, gonna be right back with some more cooking issues. Um is the only farm in the United States that has its own USDA inspected red meat abattoir or slaughterhouse. And it's um USDA inspected poultry abattoir or slower house.
+
+[23:00] We partner with Whole Foods to deliver our high quality meat and poultry from Miami, Florida, all the way to Princeton, New Jersey. One family, one farm, five generations, 145 years. A full circle return to sustainable land stewardship, humane animal stockmanship. For more information, please visit our website, White Oak Pastures.com. Oh yeah.
+
+[23:30] Abattoir. The way that man says abattoir makes me want to go get something slaughtered. You know what I'm saying? Seriously. That is awesome.
+
+[23:39] White Oak Pastures. Love that guy. All right. Uh Dana writes in about PID controller. So uh for those of you, I don't know, maybe this is the first time you've tuned in or whatever, uh, PID is uh is the type of controller, it stands for uh I think uh proportional uh integrative and uh derivative, I think, or something like this.
+
+[23:57] Uh controller that's used to do all of the uh immersion circulators, and because what they do is instead of the temperature like going up and then uh overshooting the mark like a standard thermostat and then going down and up and but purpoising back and forth, they like ramp up and then they stay solid on on the uh they stay solid on the temperature that you want. That's PID controller, and that's what we all use for our immersion circulators. Common mistake people do is they think they want to add like a PID controller to things like a deep fryer, which you don't. The reason is a deep fryer you want to go as fast as possible. It's all about recovery time.
+
+[24:30] PIDs aren't about recovery time. They're about accuracy. So you s always remember when you ask for PID to make sure that you actually want one. That said, you often want one. Okay.
+
+[24:39] Uh to Dana's question. Uh and it's always had this problem. You think Dana's a man or a woman? Why? P I D.
+
+[24:49] I feel like it's mostly men to ask, but you know what? Like you're probably freaking right, but it just pisses me off so much. This goes back to that article that that lady wrote years ago. Were you working with me? Or Mindy Mindy was working with me, I think it's time.
+
+[25:00] Were you working with me when the Times wrote that article? Was saying about like like technology in the kitchen, like about boys and their toys. Mm-hmm. I was like, it's ridiculous. It's so crazy.
+
+[25:09] Like, you know what I mean? It's like, why is it why is it that why is it it's associated with men? It doesn't, you know, you know, uh, whatever. Uh I want to build an electric kettle for brewing beer, uh brew in a bag style. Brew in a bag.
+
+[25:23] I think brewing a bag came out uh after I had stopped uh my home brewing, but fundamentally what you do is you put the I guess you put the you put your your grains in a in a fat ass sack, as Ludacris would say, and then put it into the kettle that you're eventually going to use, and then you can pull it out instead of having to have multiple containers to do it in. Uh yes, here it says brewing bag eliminates the traditional three vessel system and uses the kettle as the mash ton and boil kettle. Uh you like ludicrous styles or no? Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[25:51] Yeah, he's pretty funny. I don't like uh some of this stuff's good. Some like some of the stuff I think is really good, and then some of the stuff when it's too I don't know, I don't know. I don't know. I like it when he's got some more of a sense of humor about himself, you know what I mean?
+
+[26:02] Yeah. Uh I'm going to use an old keg as the kettle, and I'd like to use a 240 volt 5,500 watt heater element to heat up uh the 10 gallons of water. And by the way, Dana, I didn't have the time to do the calculations, but I'm sure you already have. There's plenty of uh Google calculators out there where you can calculate the um the heating rate, uh, you know, you assume a certain efficiency for the heater, but you can calculate the heating rate uh for a particular volume of water with a particular wattage of heaters. So I'm presenting that you've already checked that, but that sounds good.
+
+[26:32] Uh I'd also like to use a PID controller so I can accurately hold the water at mash temp for 90 minutes, then raise it to mash out temp, mash out so when you're mashing uh when you make a beer, you take the grain, uh the grain has uh been uh the barley has been uh malted, the malting means that it started to germinate, the enzymes are there, therefore to break the carbohydrate in the barley down to sugar, right? Uh and then uh so you know that's that's how that works. But you have to what you have to do is eventually raise the temperature enough to kill the uh enzymes, and killing the uh enzymes off is called mashing out so that you don't necessarily get uh at least that's my memory. It's been a million years since I've had to do this stuff. Uh so anyway, uh back to the question.
+
+[27:19] Uh see, then boiled in. That was a long way around my actual question, so I've been listening to Dave a bit too much. Yes, so again, he's saying that his question, we're presuming it's a heat, is so long that he's been listening to me because I do the same thing. Fair. Uh I know there's a lot of info in the forums about electric brewing, but uh all the info seems to assume is the reader possesses some electrical knowledge, of which I have little.
+
+[27:40] Not none, but little. So I assume it goes like this. Uh well, and then he he has a uh like a directional kind of diagram here, which I'm not gonna go into. I'm just gonna tell you the right way to do it. So a heating element, it's it involves the heating element, the PID controller, the solid state relay, and the plug into into an outlet, right?
+
+[27:59] Now, here's the issue. You're using a 240 volt uh uh thing, so you're gonna want to be careful. 110 is not inherently safe, but it's more safe than 200 and uh 220 or 240 or whatever you want to call it. So you just want to be a little bit careful when you're using voltages like that. Uh especially because you're going to be switching the you're going to be switching that that kind of a high voltage, so it's going to be present near where you're working.
+
+[28:24] Heaters are dumb elements, right? So all the heater wants to be uh have happened is to get plugged directly into a wall, right? And so what you want to think about it is is that the PID controller and the solid state relay, all they are is uh a switch that is going between the the wall current and the heater. So here's how it works. First of all, make sure you have a PID controller that can run off the 240.
+
+[28:48] Otherwise, if you need to, you can run off two circuits. You can run the PID off of a wall socket and you can run the heater off of a 240, but it's not necessary. Many PID controllers can handle the direct uh 220 slash 240. Most of them run at like 120 to 240 and between 50 and 60 cycles, so you could take it to Europe if you need to. Anyways, but just read the specs on it.
+
+[29:09] So then you take uh an extension cord. Now remember, this is not the advice of a trained electrician. Electrocute yourself at your own peril. This is just how it works. So then you take the um, and depending on how you use it.
+
+[29:22] So for instance, in a normal 110 line, you have a power and then you have a return. And the power has got the full 110 on it, right? Or 125, whatever you want to call it, 120, uh wiggling up and down, AC, uh alternating current, and then the other line is basically dead. It's a return that you send the power back to to ground on to the circuit thing. So you could touch on an AC, regular 110 AC line, 120, you could touch uh the neutral and you know, lick your don't do this.
+
+[29:54] Lick your finger, touch the neutral, and touch something, and you won't get shocked, right? Now, uh standard household 220, that's not the case. Uh both lines will be hot all the time, but they'll be going opposite of each other, right? So you'll have 110 on or 120, let's say, on each line, but because remember, AC is a wave, it goes up and down, so they go opposite each other, so it goes all the way up to you get 120 plus 120 to 40. So you there's no safe, there's no safe line, right?
+
+[30:25] So you're gonna have to do it a little bit differently than you would with with a 110 line, but it's fundamentally the same. So you need to apply power to your PID controller. Then the PID controller has uh, let me see, one, two, maybe this three, four. It has these. It has it has power, right?
+
+[30:43] Which is gonna be your AC power lines that you've got to attach to it from the plug from the wall. It's then gonna have uh a thermocouple input, right, which has two connectors on it. Make sure you hook it up because especially if you're using a K-type thermocouple, it's very easy to reverse them. Um because the the red one, and I always get it uh uh messed up, I have to remember it. The red one, which you think is positive, is actually the negative, but I have to I have to go and look at it again.
+
+[31:07] But I'm pretty sure that's true. Uh and then you have uh usually a relay. Well, you usually there's a small solid state relay in the PID controller itself, but that relay is not intended to handle the power of switching something big like a 5,000 watt heater, right? So that's why you need, and sometimes it just says it puts 5 volts out or whatever, which is fine, or 12 or whatever. Fine.
+
+[31:32] Uh that's why you need the solid state relay. Now, the reason you want a solid state relay and not a regular relay is I hate that clicking, first of all, like they're they're fairly cheap now. And the real relays, they sit there and they click. And also uh real relay, especially a big power rela relay like that, doesn't like to be turned off and on very rapidly. Whereas solid state relay, there's no actual moving parts, it doesn't matter.
+
+[31:57] It can turn off and on as much as it wants. So like your PID controller if it's sitting there pulsing the the heater off and on, it's not gonna bother, you're not gonna hear a click, it's not gonna have a mechanical issue. That's why a solid state relay. So what you do is is you have the power the wall power goes to your uh the wall power goes to your PID controller. Uh your thermocouple goes to your PID controller.
+
+[32:19] Uh one wire uh your the the in and the out go to the low voltage side of your solid state relay and then uh on the other side of your solid state relay you have um one side of power from the wall going to one side of the heater and then on the other side of the heater coming out of it you have it go to uh one of the the output of the solid state relay and then the input of the high voltage side of the solid state relay then goes uh to uh to back to to to the wall. Does this make any sense, Doz? Yeah. No? Yeah I mean what what's happening is is that you're putting power to the P I D controller.
+
+[33:01] The P I D controller is sending a low voltage signal to the solid state relay and this and the solid state relay is in effect like just uh flipping a switch uh that is opening and closing a circuit between one of the two wires in the high voltage circuit that is the heater. See what I'm saying? Mm-hmm. Does that make more sense a little bit? It's very hard to explain on the radio.
+
+[33:24] Very easy with a picture. Very hard to explain on the radio. Maybe you should draw a picture and then tweet it or something. Yeah, yeah, I can do that. Are there any safety features you would want to add since I have friends that would like me to build one for them?
+
+[33:36] So I want to make sure it's completely safe, you know, as and not burn their houses down. Yeah, just make sure that you uh let me ask, I haven't I have to have an architect in the room with me. Do they have 240 volt uh GFI? Uh we should I would look. I would make sure that you get you uh have a GFI socket.
+
+[33:53] I don't have never worked with 240 uh with PID, so I mean all of my knowledge is on 120, and in 120 I just make sure everything's in GFI. I put uh fuses and everything and just make sure you're totally safe. But I will uh I will I will draw a picture and tweet it, Stas. You have a good uh you have a good uh good idea there. Thanks.
+
+[34:11] Uh in conclusion, uh yeah. I tell you in bold the podcast, so that's good. Dana says that's give me a big all yeah on the podcast. I've listened to the entire back catalog twice. Keep them good working.
+
+[34:24] I can't imagine that. No, I can't What's up? I said they can't imagine that. No, not me neither. Uh Nick writes in about Doritos.
+
+[34:34] Uh hey, uh Nastasha, Dave, and Jack. I like making popcorn as a snack. That's a good statement. Right there, right? I mean, I like popcorn as a snack.
+
+[34:41] You guys? It's the best. Yeah, popcorn, good product. I like making popcorn as a snack, and lately I've been playing around with flavorings. I'm trying to recreate the flavor of zesty cheese Doritos available in Canada because they are delicious.
+
+[34:55] This is also a good reason to do something. I've never had a zesty cheese Dorito, uh, but you know, because it's Canadian, uh, you know, um I got a picture of it here from Nick, and they have to write it in French as well. And zesty cheese in French sounds terrible. Fromage melodon, like mordant. That doesn't sound delicious.
+
+[35:14] Why are there so many flavors of Doritos now? Oh, that's an extra interesting question. So, like one of the things, uh, one of the reasons why you have so many flavors is any company that's looking, any company that has like a product, let's say Doritos, right? And there's a bunch of other snacks out there that you can go for, right? How do they make sure that you buy Doritos?
+
+[35:34] Well, they can put eight billion different flavors of Doritos in there so that just more of the stuff that you see is Dorito, right? And plus you already like Doritos. And so if you see some other snack that you don't know, and then Doritos, which you're apt to like anyway, you look at and you're like, oh, Zeffy cheese, that's a new Dorito. I would try that. See what I mean?
+
+[35:54] Yeah. Yeah. And so like that's like over the past, you know, I don't know how many years, like, like that's one of the big that's why you see like eight billion different new Oreos out there, too. It's because like, you know, they're they're they're leveraging on the Dorito name, creating all these line extensions to just kind of like, you know, increase the Dorito profile across the board. Doesn't mean that they don't love the original Dorito.
+
+[36:15] You know what I mean? Yep. Anyway. Uh back to Nick's question. Um I adapted the ingredient list to what I had available at home, mixed it in a spice grinder, and got something that tasted pretty good, but not much like Doritos.
+
+[36:30] I used nutritional yeast, cheap and provides a cheesy, cheese, cheese ish flavor, salt, onion powder, and uh garlic powder, which by the way, I detest onion powder and garlic powder. I know that people like it. I hate it. Stas, what do you think about it? I don't like it at all.
+
+[36:45] Jack, your feelings on onion powder, garlic powder. No, not a fan. Yeah, do you think that's a good one? I never like garlic powder on cheese. We might have had this discussion on the radio before, but I don't mind it in like that the fl the kind of like burnt flavor that like garlic bagels have.
+
+[36:57] But I don't even like garlic bagels, but I like that flavor in an everything bagel. Like that's the only time I like that flavor is its presence in an everything bagel. I used to put it on pizza garlic powder when I was younger. Yeah, but like like not like last week. We're talking like a billion years ago, right?
+
+[37:11] A million years ago. Before I knew anything. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[37:16] Uh uh, how much how much would I uh like next week when we're back, uh when I'm but we're all together at the at the show, should I bring a thing of garlic powder in and start sprinkling it over the pizza and see what they say, Robert's? I dare you. That'll be sweet, right? Or what's worse, like garlic salt. I'll bring garlic salt a big container of garlic salt, and I'll start shaking that stuff on the thing, I'll be like, what, what?
+
+[37:37] Um just put it on all the tables at Roberta's and see how the management responds. Holy shit. Just don't say anything about it. Just like as you walk past, just like put it down. A little bit.
+
+[37:50] Eh, minimal. Could we well? Is Indy Jesus still work there? No. No, he's gone.
+
+[37:56] No, he can't straighten it out with us then. He could just his benevolence would fix everything. Anyways, uh use nutritional yeast, salt, onion powder, garlic powder. I only recently got some MSG and citric acid, which is uh one of the reasons also why the yeast stuff is in there, because it's uh any sort of protein breakdown powder to get that kind of umami crap in there. And citric acid, uh and I'm curious to see how adding those will get me closer to the right flavor.
+
+[38:20] Um then he included my issues. The spice mix does not adhere to the popcorn well if it is added after cooking. Uh yes, this is true. A lot of the spice mix just falls to the bottom of the bowl. When I'm only using finely ground salt, I add it to the pot with the kernels and it sticks great.
+
+[38:33] If I do this with other spices, they just burn. Yes, because spices burn where salt doesn't. What can I do to get a nice coat of seasoning on the popcorn? I got an answer for you on that one, Nick. That's not a problem.
+
+[38:42] And do you think it's realistic to get close to a commercial flavor without a bunch of industrial ingredients? And close, or you can make a good flavor. Uh FYI, I pop my kernels in a pot with coconut oil on an electric range. He then sends me the Zefdy cheese details. Here is the list of ingredients.
+
+[38:58] Corn maltodextrin, which is just a uh bulking edge. So we're talking about the powder and how you this is the seasoning ingredient list. So uh maltodextrin, whey powder, salt, MSG, onion powder, sugar, cheddar uh and parmesan cheeses, corn syrup solids, natural and artificial flavors, carler, garlic powder, citric acid, sodium caseinate, autilized yeast extract, disodium uh uh I sinus I can't pronounce it, uh I can't pronounce it. And uh uh disodium guanolate. So, like the autilized yeast extract and the uh and all that other stuff uh is there so that they don't have to add as much MSG as as they as as they want to add.
+
+[39:36] That stuff's creating that kind of stuff. The cheese flavors from the sodium caseinate, the whey powder, uh, the parmesan cheese and the cheddar. So you can just jack the actual cheese powders that you have in it instead of doing that, uh probably to similar effect. The maltodextrin is in there to bulk up the spice powder so that uh so that it's you know kind of bulked better. Um the onion, the sugar, uh, the corn syrup solids, maybe that's there for water handling, but I don't think so, and the natural artificial flavors, which is where you can put the spices in, right?
+
+[40:08] And the citric acid, that's all there for the flavors that you're looking for. So you could probably mix something like that. You just gotta make sure you get the MSG, right. The secret that you don't have is that what they do, and this is what's gonna blow your mind, what they do is they mix that spice mix into an oil mixture, and then spray that oil mixture onto the Doritos. And that's how you do it.
+
+[40:29] And that's how you do it on popcorn too. So the reason that movie theater popcorn is so incredibly caloric, right? Is that you um is that they pop it and then they spray or pump the butter mixture on top of it that has that flavor, right? So they're adding a bunch of extra oil. And you're gonna have to do the same.
+
+[40:50] You don't have to add that much oil, but what you do is you mix the spice into a slurry, right, so that it's like, you know, not a paste. It has to be runny enough to coat. Then you can stick the uh you can stick the popcorn that want it to be hot and you want the oil to be hot, but not burning like it's gonna burn the spices, and then like swirl it over and then put it between two bowls and shake the hell out of it so that it coats all around. Look and see if you have enough, you can add some more and do it. You you can actually, if you have a tumbler, you can spray it in uh you can spray it in while it's tumbling, is the best way to do it, but very few people uh very few people uh can do that.
+
+[41:25] Let me see what you said, how you pop it again. Um you pop it on an electric range. Yeah, so if you have a whirly pop, you might be able to turn the popcorn machine off and spin it a little bit, but I don't know how much you're really gonna need to get a lot of good agitation. But the secret is oil slurry. Yeah?
+
+[41:39] What do you think, Stas? Good. Good job. All right. Paul Yee writes in, hey Dave and Nastasha, no love for Jack.
+
+[41:45] Uh I've been making my own almond nut milk for a few months and have recently noticed that the milk will separate a lot when I add kosher salt, separate a little bit when I omit salt, and stay together when I add Celtic gray salt. Uh my suspicion is this is because the kosher salt is acidic while the gray salt is more basic. Do you have any guess why this might happen? Paul Yee. I have a guess, but I don't have an answer.
+
+[42:04] Uh I was trying to do some research, I didn't have time uh to do the research on it, but I can try to look for it next time. I think the issue here is that you have uh the almond milk might be, the almond milk might be um susceptible to certain uh to certain ions and not to others. So kosher salt is exclusively pretty much uh sodium chloride, NACL. Uh whereas uh keltic gray salt is probably has a lot more of the other impurities that are present in seawater, like magnesium uh or calcium. And it's these kind of divalent uh, these kind of divalent ions that can sometimes do things like clot tofu and other things like this.
+
+[42:49] And so I don't know, because I haven't done a test to see whether almond milk is sensitive to uh divalent uh positive ions, but that is my guess. Uh but I was going to do some research on almond milk, but I didn't get a chance. But do some research on that, poke it around. I'm pretty sure that's the I'm pretty sure that's the answer, but I don't know. Pretty sure though.
+
+[43:08] Uh Steve from Miami writes in Hey Nastasha, Dave, and Jack. I was wondering if Dave could dive into a few tortilla nixtimalization questions. So for those of you who don't remember, nixtimalization is the process by which you uh boil and soak uh grain, typically corn, uh, in a an alkaline mixture, typically made of calcium hydroxide, uh, and then uh you let that soak for a while. It does a number of awesome things like break down the sea coat, make it easier to grind, partially uh cook some of the starch out so that it uh it forms a coherent dough and turns the outside seed coat of the corn uh into like a hydrocolloid mass that helps to bind masa into the awesome stuff that we know as tortillas. It's the reason why tortillas are tortillas and not just cornmeal pancakes.
+
+[43:52] Um, uh, could you recommend a good source of corn readily available in the U.S.? I came across www.rovseed.com. Stas, isn't that the one we use? Didn't we use RoVy? Stas.
+
+[44:09] Uh-oh. You guys there? Stas. Stas lost the line. Yeah, Stas's phone got disconnected.
+
+[44:19] I think Rovi is the one that we used, and then Rove was recommended to us by the Torteria Nixtamal, which is the tortilla, the only one for a while that was doing it here in New York, was doing the their own niximalization. So I think those are the guys that we use. The problem is that it costs almost as much to buy from, to ship this 50 pound sack as it does to, you know, if you're only doing it a little bit, as it does to just uh uh the corn. In fact, the shipping was more than the corn. Um so I think you know, any local, unless you're going to buy 50 pound sacks, in which case, yeah, go to them.
+
+[44:53] But um, you know, I know that um uh Danny Danny Bowen said he was using Anton Mills, but that stuff's super pricey. But if you're interested in kind of super pricey heirloom corns, that's another place you might want to go. And then uh do you have any experience with the anixtomatic grinder mill or any other equivalent to grind mill fresh Nixtamal into Massa? No, I wish I did. That the Nixamatic is the one that the um oh my god, then his name just went out of my head.
+
+[45:18] The guy from the uh the famous bean place in California. Anyways, uh Rancho Rancho Gordo Beans, he has one. He says they're awesome, and you can get them in Mexico, but as far as I know, they're not available here. You looked awesome. But no, I've only ever used the Corona.
+
+[45:31] I've used Matate Manos. That was a pain in the ass. I'd not recommend doing that, which is the traditional way to do it. I've used uh food processor. Again, not recommended.
+
+[45:41] The reason is is that you have to add too much liquid to it to get it to grind properly that way. And I've used the Corona hand uh mill, which is made in Colombia but is used for this sort of stuff, and it works, but it's a pain. Yes. Um it's just really a pain to do. So uh but everyone who I know that's using Extomatics says it's awesome.
+
+[46:02] And then the next question, how long would fresh masa last in the fridge, vacuum sealed or not? I think fresh masa oh here look here's the and then I'll just rant round out of the stuff. Could you freeze fresh made tortillas without a huge loss on quality, or are there some best practices to hold uh fresh tortillas? PS can't wait for the cereal to arrive. Thank you and cheers.
+
+[46:18] Uh Steve. All right. Let's I'll handle all those those last two questions at once. Here's the thing. Once you make a tort once you make masa, I think the masa I think it's better to hold masa than it is to hold tortillas.
+
+[46:31] Uh once you uh take a tortilla and heat it and then it kind of cool and you you know you cook it, you do it to initial cook. I don't think it's ever the same again, ever. I think it's kinda like, you know, it's kinda like, you know, when you go and they make crepes and then they reheat the crepes and they're not quite as good as when they made them fresh. I think it's much more so with a tortilla. I think a tortilla really wants to be eaten right after it's made.
+
+[46:55] You know, maybe reheat it a little bit like it was made a couple of minutes ago or like you know, an hour ago, but I think a tortilla is like on a downward spiral right after it's made. Massa, on the other hand, I think uh can hold a day in the fridge better than a tortilla can. So if you're going to hold one, I would hold masa. Um so I mean that's just that's just my feeling. Here here here's my level, here's my level, my quality levels.
+
+[47:20] I would say I would take a so maseka is the is the flour that you use when you're not making your own masa, it's like the it's like you know, instant masa basically. Uh I would say the height of the tortilla is a nicely made fresh masa uh tortilla fresh. Then the next level down from that is m masa that was made yesterday, made into a tort, and maybe even frozen. I don't know if masa will freeze. I've never tried it.
+
+[47:46] Massa was made into a tortilla uh mate masa that was made yesterday, made into a tortilla today, fresh, bing. Then I would say the next down on the list, farther much farther down the list would be maseca tortilla made today. Then after that would be uh y yesterday's fresh masa tortilla, and then further down from that, uh yesterday's maseca tortilla. But that's pretty much how it goes. That makes sense, Jack.
+
+[48:12] Yeah. Stad, you're back. Oh, did you say something? I was looking at my email. Yeah, sorry.
+
+[48:18] Yeah, it's just like the real life. Yeah, I was asking you questions about where we got our corn from. That was literally when I pulled the phone away from my head and looked at the email that just came in. That's so funny. Yeah, yeah, it's hilarious.
+
+[48:29] Uh do you remember was it Roe v seed? I think it was. Uh yeah, it was. Yeah. Blue stuff or whatever.
+
+[48:35] Yeah, the blue stuff, yeah. Yeah. Drew writes in, great show, makes my commute every day. Uh I recently got a couple of vacuum pumps and a microcentrifuge at a state university surplus sale. Both of the vacuum pumps came from the food science department.
+
+[48:46] Uh would you say where? Just said State University, doesn't say what state. Um, and is it precision scientific Vac Tor Direct Drive 100, uh, which you purchased for 40 dollars. I can't seem to find much about this model at all. Well, I found a little bit of something, uh, Drew.
+
+[49:01] And that sucker, the only thing I was able to find on that model is that it is uh I have a picture of some sort of like 1970s looking woman holding it up in some sort of like super, it's really weird styles. You would groove on this lady's outfit. It's like long johns with like uh haltered top lawn john over the long long johns. I love long dogs. I know.
+
+[49:23] If you're like freaking Long John Silver, just for you to buy Stas something for like a gift, Long Johns. Um and it looks to be a vacuum pump, uh as you know, uh, that an oil vein guy uh oh, by the way, just so you guys know, um the questions that we're gonna be using what he bought another pump too. Would either of these pumps be worth trying to use for DIY rotor rotary evaporator, chamber vac or the like. Uh that guy looks uh good for uh that guy looks good for a rotor vap, no problem. Uh I don't know if it's gonna be good for a chamber vac because I don't think it'll evacuate fast enough, but you just gotta make sure that it's still uh in good working order because it it but it's definitely strong enough.
+
+[50:05] And the other pump you had was a Fisher Scientific Maxima D8A, similarly a rotary vein oil-based vacuum pump. Just make sure that if uh you know that it works right. Uh both of those pumps work fine. The uh Fisher Scientific one only does seven cubic feet per minute, which is similar to the refrigeration vacuum pumps that I buy on eBay when I'm doing my DIY stuff. Uh and you can do a chamber vacuum machine with them, but they're not as nearly as fast and as powerful as the big ones.
+
+[50:35] But they will work. Uh but you just need to make sure that you keep them clean. Um but anyway, so yes, they those would be useful for those things. Uh remember Daniel at Harvard Stas? Mm-hmm.
+
+[50:45] Yeah. He said that you the one thing you don't want to do uh is run those things for a long, long time unless you have an oil filter on them because they uh they can uh heat up and uh put out silicone uh oil mist, which he says is not so good to breathe. I don't know if that's true or not, but I kinda tend to trust Daniel. Uh Drew also writes, I've got an Eppendorf, I also got an Eppendorf 5412 micro centrifuge, five bucks from the nineteen seventies. No lid, but a chunk of no lid.
+
+[51:14] That's the story of our life, right, Stas? Uh but a chu but uh by the way, did our centrifuge ever get working or no? Um I have a they use the one upstairs. I think the downstairs one is is done. Yeah.
+
+[51:25] It's not done. They just don't know how to fix one of the centrifuges at the bar is acting up. But uh we need to get that fixed. The one downstairs is better. Anyway, whatever.
+
+[51:32] No lid, but a chunk of acrylic seems to be doing the trick. It works, but it looks like it only has twelve by one point five millimeter milliliter capacity, i.e., not very much. That's uh what's twelve times one, eighteen mils total. So is it worth using for culinary applications? In other words, should I invest the ten dollars for tubes or just put it up on eBay for sale?
+
+[51:49] Thanks, Drew. Well, it's not really useful, no. Except if you want to experiment with it, you don't have another centrifuge lying around. If you were gonna experiment with something like that, what it'd be useful for is doing some um I forget the name of it. It's called like centrivap or something like this, and what you do is you hook up one of your vacuum pumps to the trunk you put a seal.
+
+[52:06] I looked at this centrifuge online, and it's small enough that I bet you it's crush proof under a vacuum. So if you just put a little seal on your chunk of acrylic and a vacuum tube to it, you could suck a vacuum. And the idea is is that liquids in the tubes won't boil out of the tubes because they're under centrifugal force, which will pop the bubbles as they're formed when you're boiling. And so you can do relatively rapid uh evaporation, and so you could probably uh low t low temp evaporate uh products in it pretty well. So you might want to try it for a centrivap application.
+
+[52:35] Uh but for actual centrifuging, nah, that sucker's too small to be useful. Uh okay, and we got one last question. We got time styles or no? Yeah, we have two minutes. Uh yeah, we gotta wrap it up, guys.
+
+[52:44] All right, there's a long question in two minutes. Chris, you asked some question about like uh I'll have to get back to Chris's question uh next time. Uh he had a question about um making uh you like baccalau stuff? No, I just I talked to Mark about it this morning. I said that sounds gross, and he said that sounds delicious.
+
+[53:05] So you don't yeah, well, first of all, like what bacalau foam, uh the whole thing sounded gross to me. Well, do you like brandad? I don't even know what that is. Brandad is like baccala and and potatoes and like cream. It's like a French thing.
+
+[53:21] It's delicious, brand, but it's not foamed usually. Chris had a question on baccalaura foam. He wants to do a baccalaura foam. Well, we'll deal with we'll deal with it next time. But uh anything, anything else?
+
+[53:31] Anything else going on before we head out, guys? Uh no, but I'll call you after. All right, so Chris, I'm sorry, I'll get to your question next time. I'm trying to stabilize your your uh your kind of brand foam there. Uh good to be back.
+
+[53:44] Be with you next week. Cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio.
+
+[54:05] You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] This podcast is sponsored by Talkspace. Last year, I went through many different life changes. I needed to take a pause and examine how I was feeling in the inside to better show up for the ones who need me to be my best version of myself. When you're navigating life's changes, Talkspace can help. Talkspace is the number one rated online therapy, bringing you professional support from licensed therapists and psychiatry providers that you can access anytime, anywhere.
+
+[0:27] Living a busy life, navigating a long distance relationship, becoming a first step father. Talkspace made all of those journeys possible. I could speak with my therapist in the office. I could speak of my therapist in the comfort of my home. I was never alone.
+
+[0:41] Talkspace works with most major insurers, and most insured members have a zero dollar copay. No insurance, no problem. Now get $80 off your first month with promo code Space80 when you go to Talkspace.com. Match with a licensed therapist today at Talkspace.com. Save $80 with code Space80 at Talkspace.com.
+
+[1:00] Today's show is brought to you by Searsucker Brooklyn. For more information, visit Searsucker Brooklyn.com. Hi, this is Joe Campanelli, the host of In the Drink. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit heritageradio network.org for thousands more.
+
+[1:25] Cooking issues. Cooking issues! Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to the live from Roberta's Pizzery in Bushwig Brooklyn Finally back in Bushwick. How you doing, Stas?
+
+[2:07] Good. Yeah, Stas back in the studio. It's been about it's been a full month since we've been uh live in the studio. Jack, uh, how you doing over there? Yeah, I've been lonely, let me tell you.
+
+[2:15] Oh, now you're just making me feel good. You know how sad it was to do cooking issues just with you and Stas on the phone? Well, uh see no what else I heard, like we used up all of the uh all of the phone lines. Someone tried to call in. I heard later that someone tried to call in and they couldn't because of the whole, you know, we were just sucking up the phone.
+
+[2:34] Hogging up the phone bandwidth. Just sucking that crap up. All right. Well, listen. Uh so we also have with us in the studio today, Moses.
+
+[2:42] What's your last name, Moses? Moses Jarena. Moses what? Moses Jarena. Jarena?
+
+[2:47] Here, I'll get yourself a mic, Blossom. So no one gets to hang out here without me pestering them. So what is it that what is it that you do here at the Heritage Radio? I just take care of the social media stuff. Yeah?
+
+[2:57] Yeah. Yeah, so you like what does that what does that mean? Well, like live tweeting during the shows, taking pictures, you know, general PR stuff. Yeah. I saw well and you're you're on the at Heritage Radio?
+
+[3:07] Yeah. All right, so listen. Let's say you have a job. I don't know, but you're listening to this on earphones or something. Why don't you instead of live tweeting your questions in, you can tweet a question to Moses at at Heritage Radio.
+
+[3:19] What's a what's our full handle there? At Heritage Radio? Heritage underscore radio. At heritage underscore radio. You tweet that in, and that's as good as calling, because I don't know, maybe you can't call.
+
+[3:28] Maybe you're somewhere where you can't call, but you want to tweet in a question. You can live tweet in a question, and Moses will read it uh to me on the air, and then we'll uh we'll go from there. Or you can call in your questions to 718497-2128. That's 718497-2128. Uh so how you been, Stas?
+
+[3:43] Good. Yeah? Anything anything good or bad happening? Nope. Nothing?
+
+[3:46] Nope. Nothing? All right. How about you? Well Yeah, what happened to you?
+
+[3:50] Uh okay, so I've been gone for a number of reasons, but the reason we weren't in the studio last week is I was recovering from a minor minor bout of this surgery. It all happens to us as we uh as we get older. Uh but the good thing about well, the bad thing about the recovering from uh this particular surgery is that uh I was kind of laid up for a number of days and I couldn't really do anything. And I, you know, you're you know how like your mind is kind of scrambled when you're recovering, so it's not like I could do real work. But what I could do is watch Netflix.
+
+[4:16] And so uh what what I ended up watching, Columbo. I watched like an insane amount of Columbo, and there's there's an insane amount of Columbo actually on on Netflix for you to watch. Stas, you ever watch Columbo? No. No?
+
+[4:27] It's in LA. Do you Rockford Files? No. Do you watch any of the LA based? Do you care about anything?
+
+[4:32] Like what did you what LA Stas, by the way, from the LA area. So this is like not what what LA based TV shows did you watch, if any? Uh Melrose Place. I never watched that kind of crap. Columbo, Columbo's amazing.
+
+[4:45] Jack, Columbo? No, sorry. Jesus. Moses? Wasn't that during like the 40s or something?
+
+[4:50] The 40s! The 40s! I have heard of it though. Oh my god. First of all, okay, for those of you out there, it's a little bit slower than modern kind of mystery things because you know, back then people could they had what what do they call that thing?
+
+[5:04] Attention span. People had attention spans back in the uh 70s. But uh Columbo is like the greatest character ever by one of my favorite actors of all time, Peter Falk, sadly dead. Uh, but Peter Falk, you glass eye. I love any actor with a glass eye.
+
+[5:19] Stuz, you know I love a glass eye. Love a glass eye. Anywho, Peter Falk has a glass eye, and by the way, he used to he like, he was hilarious with it. He got his glass eye when he was a kid. I think it was an accident, and one of the things he used to do was uh he would play baseball, and like if he didn't like the call, he would literally pop his glass eye out and hand it to the ump.
+
+[5:34] How sweet is that? It's so sweet. Anyway, uh, so Columbo, what's awesome about it is Columbo is like a study in 1970s kind of class warfare. So Columbo is this detective who's like, he's wrong, he's rumpled, he's got the he's got the coat on, he drives a really crappy Peugeot that like no one else drives. It's like all beat up and mangled, and he never and he has a really crappy dog that won't do anything that he says.
+
+[5:58] Uh and so he has this kind of real rumpled mess thing going on, and all of the murderers that Columbo deals with are kind of rich, either rich, really rich, really smart, really snooty, some combination of like upper crust, and he sits there and kind of systematically takes them down with his like insane like logic. He's like the detective version of a Socrates, who's also an ugly man, by the way, Socrates. Ugly man and kind of you know, like kind of weird look weird. Anyway, so Columbo, amazing show, amazing, but uh there's kind of there's one that I really want to focus on, the reason I'm bringing it up on cooking issues, uh, because otherwise why would I be talking about Columbo, right? Is uh in season seven, I made it all the way through seven seasons.
+
+[6:38] Season seven, which is the last one on Netflix, 1978, there's an episode called Murder Under Glass. Now, if you're a cook, you got to watch Murder. Well, if you're a cook who cares about like old-style, uh old-style cooking, you have to watch Murder Under Glass. My pri like, you have yeah, do we have have we talked about Who's Killing the Great Chefs of Europe? No.
+
+[6:57] All right, who's killing anyone seen Who's Killing the Great Chefs of Europe? No. Another great 70. That's a movie, a great movie from the 70s, where uh the shtick is that this guy, I'm not gonna ruin it for you about why, but like all of these the great chefs of Europe, duh, are getting murdered. But here's the awesome part.
+
+[7:14] They're getting murdered uh using the techniques that uh that are used to make their signature dishes, right? So I'll give you I'll give you one of the signature dishes, pressed duck. I'll leave it there, pressed duck. Uh I'll give you another one. Ice cream bomb.
+
+[7:29] Great, great, great. Anyway, but like, so that's one of my favorite movies for like seeing uh a particular style of food manufactured that you don't necessarily get to see anymore because they're putting it in in movie format. Now, the common movies that we look at to to see kind of crazy over the top food stuff would be what? Like Le Grand Beauf, which has uh my man Marcel Mastriani, where they're all eating each each other to death, they eat to they eat themselves to death. But it's not really I mean, it's not so interesting from a gastronomic standpoint, like what they're what they're what they're eating necessarily.
+
+[7:58] The Bad Bats Feast, obviously, classic Cook Thief Wife Lover, but I'm not so into seeing someone like you know, uh the Peter Eaters, which is I guess how you describe the end of that movie. You've seen Cook Thief Wife Lover, right? Do you like that movie? I don't remember it well. You don't remember how can you not remember you seen this thing, Moses?
+
+[8:12] No, I have Jack? Sorry, we were striking out too. Anywho. We don't have a lot of time. Oh, oh yeah.
+
+[8:19] Oh, don't have a lot of time. You didn't have a lot of time when you were when you were 12 with to watch a movie. I mean, what the hell are you talking about? I didn't have a lot of time the entire time I've been alive. Give me that crap.
+
+[8:28] That's okay. I don't have I hate that crap. That's such New York crap. I don't have the time to go watch a movie. This movie's been out since before you were freaking born, Stas.
+
+[8:37] You had all of your freaking life to watch it. I choose not to watch. All right, you choose not to watch it. Not that I don't have time. I choose not to watch it.
+
+[8:44] That's much more reasonable. Anyway. The awesome thing about this Columbo. Oh, I watched Melrose Place. I have the time for freaking Melrose Place.
+
+[8:52] Not time for freaking, you know, like uh like whatever, I'm not gonna get into it. But the uh Melrose Place, really time worthy pursuit right there. Anyways. If anybody wants to sponsor a viewing party, we can maybe facilitate this. I would love to do that.
+
+[9:05] You know, uh, like I was going to I have to do this thing in Toronto Film Festival, uh, where the movie that I'm a food-based movie, and like all the good ones that like Willy Wonka, which is like one of my all-time, or Charlie Chuck, I can never remember the not the depth one, the other one, although I love depth. Like uh the Gene Wilder, which you've seen that one, right? Yeah, definitely, yeah. One of God's great movies. That's an amazing movie.
+
+[9:27] Life-changing movie. Chocolate, dwarfs, amazing. Uh has everything. Yeah, everything, everything you can want. It has.
+
+[9:33] It has like kids turning into blueberries. I mean, it's classic, you know. Uh it's got Gene. I know you love Gene Wilder styles. She's shaking her head up and down.
+
+[9:40] She's giving the happy stars face, which is rarely seen, but Gene Wilder, I mean, come on now. Gene Wilder? I mean, Gene Wilder. Anyway. So uh that was taken.
+
+[9:47] I got stuck with Soylent Green, which I like Charlton Heston, right? But I mean, I don't know, Soylent Green. You seen that movie? It's made of people. You familiar with the It's Made of People line?
+
+[9:55] You've seen Saturday Night Live. No, yes, I I I'm familiar with that line. All right, yeah, it's made of yes, because Soil and Green, the the I don't know why I'm getting into this. But Soil Green is like the idea is that everyone's eating this food and it's made it's made of people, and uh so they're crushing people up in this kind of futuristic thing and then turning them into food to feed other people. Hello, it's called perpetual motion machine that can't work, that can't work.
+
+[10:15] It's like Ponzi, it's pyramid scheme. You can't crush people to feed people because like you know, it all of like almost right away you would run out of people. Think of how much food you eat every day, you know what I mean, over the course of a year. I mean, like it's unsustainable, even a couple of years. What?
+
+[10:30] He said it wouldn't work. Wouldn't work. Not even for a couple of years, it wouldn't work. I mean, it's crazy. I mean, as a supplement, maybe, right?
+
+[10:36] I mean, as a don't waste, as is, you know, as a as a you know, as a don't waste the the meat policy, maybe, but not as an actual, like, you know, regular staple component of your diet. It doesn't make sense. That's like when you see gerbils and you have too many gerbils in a cage and they start eating each other, no one makes it out alive. It's not a situation where you know it's like, oh, you know, I'll I'll eat you will all ten of us will eat one gerbil today and then tomorrow we'll quit. No, it doesn't work that way.
+
+[10:59] Anyway, back to Colombo. So in this murder under glass, the the the murderer is a restaurant critic in San Francisco in LA, I guess, uh, in the um in the 70s, in the late 70s, 1978. And Columbo is like uh because he's solving the murder of one of the great chefs uh of the of the community there, all the other chefs feed him amazing food, and the entire episode is one amazing long kind of food porn from the 70s, and it's kind of food that you don't see uh, you know, nowadays for the for the most part. And uh what's really awesome about it was is just like the breadth of crazy stuff. For instance, they had fugu in it.
+
+[11:39] Now who was thinking of Fugu back? You know, Fugu's the poison puffer fish from uh from uh you know in Japanese food. And who the hell in the 70s in the US was thinking about fugu? Uh puffer fish? But not only did they talk about it, not only did they have a puffer fish there, but uh they served a full-on uh fugu course at uh at this dinner that they had, and it was done right.
+
+[11:59] I don't know if you have you guys ever seen a plate of fugu? I've seen it on the Simpsons, actually. And did they do it right? It's like they look like feathers almost like the fugu. So puffer fish is kind of stretchy, right?
+
+[12:09] And so they sli slice it thin and it's almost like these kind of like feathered out, it's like on a on like a large kind of circular plate, and it's feathered out in almost like a like a like a like a dahlia kind of effect or like a peacock kind of effect where like the pieces are kind of overleafed on each other and feathered up. And damn it, they did it like dead on. They did it like dead. In fact, Fugu poison was the the the poison of choice in this uh in this Colombo episode but then they they had like this amazing looking pantone they had like a bunch of foie gras stuff which back in the 70s was rare in the US like uh but then he goes to a dinner at a French restaurant and they bust out all of the sick like present presentation stuff from like some of my favorite books. So uh and this is what kind of they for instance like they do a rock lobster that's been eviscerated cooked and then the meat layered in aspect and decorated all the down the down the back of it with the pr sick presentations like salmon uh you know on I speak with truffles like all like all the old school all the old school stuff so you have to watch it just for that but what it made me think of is old books and uh have we done a lot of old book talking on here on the on uh some like like what what have we talked about I don't know you don't know because you're reading another book right now another old book right now if we could talk about it instead of paying attention even when Nastashi doesn't bring her computer she cannot be bothered to pay attention to what's going on in the show she's literally reading a book that I was reading on the subway on the way over here right now instead of paying attention what's going on.
+
+[13:30] We got a caller. Oh all right well we'll get back to the old books on a minute caller you're on the air hey Dave how you doing doing all right very well uh my name is Antoine just on in from Boca Tone Florida. Nice boca I I'm in fact wearing Florida uh garb right now I have on a uh linen guayaba yeah no way yeah hell yeah hell yeah I got my I got my uh my Spanish uh boss hog my El Jefe de Cerdo outfit on I have a Panama hat I was walking over here with my linen guayabera I'm all set what's up yeah, I was gonna ask actually to a previous episode you had done where you had mentioned you went to uh Boca and I just wanted to see if there's any places you ever recommended here. That's one question. The second is I always like making sushi at home, but I don't like purchasing like expensive sushi grade tuna.
+
+[14:14] And I was wondering what level of contamination you think there is if I was to go to Whole Foods and just buy their fish and make it with that. Well, I mean, I'm sure like if you see a piece of tuna that I mean, look, let me put it this way. The sushi tuna the the tuna that is used, the high-end tuna that's used out there for for sushi, it it it has as much or more mercury as anything else that you're you're gonna get, right? Because um they're all kind of unsustainably captured and um so the f the first question is is like we're talking like real tuna like blue like bluefin, the first question is whether or not you want to actually deal in the market with that because it's seriously, seriously, seriously overfished right now. But uh in terms of the mercury, like the the issue with any sort of top chain predator fish like a like a tuna is that um as long as they're eating stuff in the wild, that they're bioaccumulators.
+
+[15:08] So the the bigger they are and the older they are, the more mercury they're gonna have in them. And that's why if you see these kind of low mercury or mercury-free tuna in cans, all they're really doing is they're getting younger tuna that haven't had the time to bioaccumulate uh as much mercury. So there's that on the on the mercury contamination. Now, as far as bacterial contamination, also this shouldn't be too much of an issue with a whole muscle fish because uh bacteria is only gonna get into the inside of a fish where it's been jabbed or or poked. So now you got two remaining uh questions, and that is the quality of the fish in general, and then uh the second thing is the actual kind of taste quality.
+
+[15:46] So what happens to fish as it gets too old is that it um you know it starts oxidizing, it starts losing its textural properties. And that's where it's kind of like in terms of uh in terms of the the muscle quality, uh the actual taste, muscle quality, texture, and the kind of oxidative stress that the muscle's gone through. That's where the really expensive tuna is gonna start breaking free from the less expensive tuna, right? So, like a really, really fancy uh piece of tuna, not only is it like a high high quality muscle, but it's been treated right. For instance, like tuna that's is just destined to become sushi, they uh usually they're in uh a farm which is a misnomer, it's not really farmed.
+
+[16:26] What they do is they capture wild tuna and then they uh fatten them up in pens. Uh but they what they do is they send divers out every day to dive around in the pools, at least they used to. I haven't researched it in a couple of years. They send divers to swim around in the pools with harpoons all all day every day so that these tuna get used to seeing these human divers like going around. And then when it comes time to harvest one, actually I they use yeah, they're electric stun harpoons.
+
+[16:51] They would they would hit them with the thing, which gives them uh uh an electric jolt. The electric jolt is very finely tuned to not snap the spine, because if it snaps the spine uh or you know is too violent uh on the convulsions, you can get blood spots in the meat, and that kind of ruins uh that section of the meat in terms of its uh marketability. Then they bring the sh uh fish on board and they perform eachime where they put the needle through the spine, they do the bleed out and they put the needle through the spine. So all of those effects tend to increase the muscle quality greatly, but they also tend to increase the price. So they're only gonna do that kind of work on tuna that's destined for a high-end kind of a sushi operation.
+
+[17:25] So right away the f the texture of the flesh is gonna be a lot better in that situation. Also, when you're dealing with tuna, especially the fattier portions, which are, you know, kind of f you know, uh like underneath and forward on the tuna. Like those those pieces, uh, you want to leave them whole uh as long as possible because any time they're exposed to oxygen, they go under oxidative stress. So if you have someone in Whole Foods who's planking the stakes out like, you know, like uh, you know, the day before or something like that, then all of a sudden you get a lot more oxidation on that surface of the fish and it's not the oils aren't gonna taste as good. Not as big of a deal in like the leaner cuts of tuna, but a much bigger deal in the fattier cuts of tuna.
+
+[18:02] Is that makes sense? Yeah, for sure. Yeah. So you can definitely do it, but another thing to do is to just, you know, find whatever kind of like local speci like so many species of fish are actually good for uh sashimi and for sushi, but they're just you know, they're not used uh so widely because maybe they're not available in Japan. You know what I mean?
+
+[18:23] And so like y they just maybe haven't been used to uh to great effect yet because there's not a a culture of it. So, you know, I don't know what what's coming in right now in uh in Florida that's considered like you know uh good and and sustainable, but I would find something that comes in off of uh, you know, a day boat there that you know is kept like on ice the entire time and then Yeah, we we typically get grouper here, like that's a really good cut. Uh I love I love grouper, but if there's have they start are they start I love grouper, but have they started getting grouper that they actually feel is like sustainable to harvest or no? Uh well I mean like they do all wild cog here, so no, it's not quite sustainable yet. Right.
+
+[19:05] But I mean it is our freshest catch that we get here often. And what was the other one? Um, no, that was the other one I was just saying, I I usually take on a like I I'm usually more concerned about the contamination part. So like I'll often do like uh prouvi and cevicha, you know, and then put that inside of a roll instead so that I cooks it more than anything else. Right.
+
+[19:28] I mean uh look, you know, if you if you I would just find like a fish like a fish uh monger that you you trust, especially if you can see the whole fish. Look, if you can see the whole fish before they before they uh chop it up, I mean like you know, it's what they what they always taught me, and I I still believe it is that you know you can if you if you can look at the gills and the eyes, then you can trust a fish. You know what I'm saying? So if you yeah, so it's like c clear eyes and and bright gills. Once the gills start going, like that's when you know that you're you know you're not dealing with you're dealing with something that's been uh sitting around uh a while.
+
+[20:05] So um, you know, although I mean that that's generally what what I look for. So if you if you have the ability to check out the gills and the and the and the eyes, you know, then uh you know, and obviously see whether or not you you could tell also, like I see a lot of fish that uh even though it's fresh, it got the hell beat out of it on the boat. You know what I mean? And so you can see that the body is like mangled and like you can see like like damage from like literal impact damage on the sides of the fish. And you know, uh the that fish will be fresh, but it won't necessarily the muscle in that area won't necessarily be as good, and it's also indicative of other stress the fish probably went through during uh catch and slaughter that might lead to uh deterioration of qualities.
+
+[20:48] Is that make sense? Yeah, for sure. So that's that was excellent. I also was wondering if you recommend any places to eat when you're in bulk or the South Florida region. You know, uh we didn't I didn't really uh eat out much.
+
+[21:01] I was uh I I last time I was there I did a dinner with um or like an event with Chef Jeremiah Bullfrog, who's awesome. Uh so you know, obviously I I like I like him. Uh but we we spent most of I spent most of my time uh just eating as much kind of rare fruit as is humanly possible. And so, you know, down in South Dade I was going to um I mean the fruit and spice park, which I think is amazing. And then also trying to go to the fair child to eat as much of the mango stuff that they had a as they had uh possible.
+
+[21:31] And you know, I even went to uh what's that place called Stars Roberts? Remember that fruit fruit stand we went to Robert's new I saw it the other day um I can't remember. Yeah, which is like it's really expensive but they have like all the cool all the cool kind of fruit down there. So like literally I was just soaking in uh fruit and then like my actual meals 'cause my family went down with me is like, you know, the my wife, like when I'm especially when my kids are there, when they're there, like I don't really go out to any kind of f fancy stuff. I go to what's easy for for the kids and then spend most of my kind of research time on uh on like the rare fruits that you can't get.
+
+[22:07] You know what I mean? Totally. Well with that being said I've I've called in before twice and you've always been very helpful and you've given me such great free knowledge. I'd love to return the favor. So I mean if there's something I I have my family in Peru, I'd love to send you other something from there or from here.
+
+[22:23] Just give me a quest, I'd love to send it. Nice whether it be beer or whatever. That's awesome. I mean someday I'll someday I'll get to go to Peru. It's like you know one of the obviously great culinary uh it's like one of the great culinary stops in the world these days and uh you know it's just I've haven't been able to go yet.
+
+[22:41] Someday I'll go. I mean apparently it's just uh you know everyone tells me that it's amazing and just getting better and better. I mean if you'll you listen to it. I would love to recommend my family just started one of the first craft breweries over there. Really?
+
+[22:55] Well, shoot shoot uh shoot me over a tweet at Cooking Issues and uh so you know, so I have your handle and we'll uh we'll stay in touch on that. Please, uh like I said, I'd love to send you something. It's the least I can do for all the knowledge you've given me and everyone else, and it's the least I could do from one food to another. Alright, well, I appreciate it, brother. Thanks so much.
+
+[23:12] You guys have a great one. Thank you. That sounds like a great idea. Alright, we'll be right back with more cooking issues. We'd like to send a special thank you to our latest business member, Seersucker.
+
+[23:41] Seersucker is a 40-seat neighborhood spot inspired by the food and hospitality of the South. Chef owner Robert Newton, who hails from Arkansas, has crafted a cuisine inspired equally by his childhood favorites and the Carroll Street green market across the street. He relies upon small local farms and indie purveyors for many of his ingredients. So the menu changes frequently based on what's available and in season. Searsucker's beer, wine, and spirits list is all American with an emphasis on New York State.
+
+[24:06] Learn more by visiting their website, Searsucker Brooklyn.com. To learn more about becoming a business member, email us. Info at heritage radio network.org. Hey, see, Jack, now I thought Seersucker, I was gonna like go buy some Seersucker suits, and that's why I was even more grooving on the whole boss hog thing when I was wearing like, you know, the the guy vera, because I thought we were gonna like all of a sudden we're like all gonna be dressed in seersucker suits. We could go to Searsucker dressed in seersuckers.
+
+[24:34] You want to? I think we should. I mean, my most of my Sears I have two Seersucker jackets, both of which were ruined. When you so for those of you that go to Tales of the Cocktail, which is kind of the New Orleans, like, you know, booze soaked debauched cocktail thing that you know we all have to go to every year if you're in the business. Uh like one of the things you're supposed to eventually do is wear a seersucker.
+
+[24:53] It's happened to me twice that someone has poured a freaking like staining cocktail on me during that during that event. Week. Week. So both my both my both my seersucker jackets are uh they're kind of kind of ruined. Stas won't let me wear them.
+
+[25:07] Was that the one Stas where you said I thought we agreed that you weren't going to wear that anymore? I don't remember. Remember I had one jacket that had been too stained that I really loved. And you're like, I wore it to some shoot, and Stas is like, I thought we had agreed that you would not wear that anymore. Alright.
+
+[25:24] Actually, so I was gonna get into some books. Oh, I do have one request, though. It's not Peruvian. If anyone out there, you guys familiar with the sweet gum tree? Sweetgum?
+
+[25:32] Anyone? No. Jack, where'd you grow up again? New York. Sweetgum tree, dude.
+
+[25:38] Come on. Sweet, you know sweet crum tree? Okay, it's the one that it's the one that drops the little balls that look like they came from minesweeper. I'm looking at this, yep. Yeah, okay.
+
+[25:47] It's got a leaf that looks a little bit like a maple, but not, and it drops the little minesweeper balls on the ground. Yeah, there's a lot of those sometimes. Yeah. Yeah. Well, the tree, the sweet gum tree, uh Dax loves sweet gum trees because he sucks on the uh on the leaves.
+
+[26:02] He's like, it has a taste, it has a flavor. Would you like some flavor? Have a sweet gum leaf. And he starts eating them. He doesn't really talk like that because he's a little, so he didn't you know his voice is a little more, but it's kind of like that.
+
+[26:10] You've heard Dax, he talks like that. Anyways. So the sweet gum tree, uh, which everyone knows I can't pronounce things, so in uh it's uh liqu liquid umbar uh styracophlua is the uh is the uh name of that thing. But uh you can harvest resin from the sweet gum tree that's supposed to be sweet and like good to kind of chew, but I I don't have the ability to harvest any of it because I don't have land with my own trees that I can kind of you can you kind of you know you cut away a section of the bark you let it drip and then you harvest it and it dries out I think it turns into this kind of uh sweet thing but if anyone who can hear the sound of my voice has access to some uh sweet gum resin I will gladly buy some because I'm dying to try it and uh it should have already happened by now because I think they probably do it in May uh you know March April May although who knows what the season that we've had now but it it should be similar season I would guess to when um to when maple to when maple uh flow is although I don't know because I've never made it but you know or if you have access to it you know call me and like you know call in and tell me like how you make it because I just want more information. It's one of those like weird ingredients that uh that I really just have a Jones thing to try the same that like I did with hickory nuts you know a couple years ago which I still love oh hickory nuts.
+
+[27:23] And um you know and some other like you know I've never had an actual American persimmon. You ever had one? I don't think so. The wild American persimmon I would anyone that has access I would like some I will pay for them. Another one is a I don't know if there are any but I'd love to try uh like an actual American chestnut.
+
+[27:38] You familiar with the chestnut uh the the destruction of the chestnut tree? No. Did you know that the chestnut American chestnut was favored over all other chestnuts in terms of uh in terms of uh its taste and uh the wood they it's one was one of the most common forest trees in all of uh in all of the United States and in the span of uh 30 years both the chestnut and uh the uh the elm, the American elm, which was the most common street tree in the in the United States, were wiped out due to imported diseases from um you know from uh across, you know, from either China or or Europe or some combination of China and Europe. And so the American chestnut tree is wiped out. I mean wiped, because the funk what the fungus would do is the fungus would attack the tree and then girdle it.
+
+[28:21] So like the fungus would literally like go underneath the top bark layer around to where the the growing and the and the fluid transportation was in the xylem, grow all the way around it, plug the tree up so the tree couldn't get food anymore, and then die out. Now, chestnut trees are interesting because they ground sprout a lot. So what you'd happen is is that the main tree would die, then you'd get little trees that would come up, they would survive for 10, 15 years or something like this, and then they would die, and that would happen again and again and again. So there are American chestnut trees, but now they're kind of an understory uh tree instead of a real one. But I don't know if any of those produce nuts.
+
+[28:53] So if anyone has access to an American chestnut, I will gladly pay you for it. Also, butternuts, American but it's not the season. When it comes to being nuts season, we'll talk more about the nuts. Anyway, I don't know what I was talking about. But it but if you have the liquid an bar, if you have the sweet gum, please uh let me know.
+
+[29:06] So before we uh talk about the uh books, which because who knows whether I'll have time. You know how I get, S. You know how I get. Uh why don't we get to some of the uh questions? Chris wrote in, uh I tried fitting the uh Moses, we got anything on the Twitter yet?
+
+[29:20] Man, these people. These people. Uh I tried fitting this uh query into a tweet, but could not provide enough info. So I called in, but it turns out you're on travel today, so I'll try an email. Uh I'm hosting a Scandinavian dinner and trying to channel some inner red Zeppy.
+
+[29:34] Uh I do a 10% brine for this is the one I missed last week. Remember? Yes. Uh I I do a 10% brine first for texture and to prevent protein ooze, wrap it in birch bark seats. Uh then uh uh boiled to soften and kill the nasties and the birch bark, then sous vita 50 seed for thirty minutes and makes a nice presentation when served on the unwrapped bark and adds a little earthy note.
+
+[29:53] Um and I I'm guessing it's cod. Uh because he says he wants to double down on the cod. So, anyways. Um I want to double down on the cod, so I'm gonna create a buccal cream. This is where we left off last week because turns out stas.
+
+[30:06] What is it that you hate? Warm fish food foams? Warm fish foams? What about what about like a like a seafood, like like canel of seafood mousse? Who seafood mousse like a canela seafood mousse?
+
+[30:20] Like, what could be more delicious? What about a seafood sausage? No. Holy crap. You mean if I t if I took it?
+
+[30:27] Yeah, I'd eat it. I didn't think it's a fish. No, I would eat it because I don't wouldn't want to hear it from you, but I wouldn't like it. You've had it before. Yeah, you don't like it.
+
+[30:35] Yeah, yeah. I don't like it. Like a poached fish mousse. Yes. What does Mark say about you not liking poached fish mousse?
+
+[30:41] How is it that you don't like it? What is he doing? Seriously, what is it you don't like about it? I don't like cooked fish very much. And I don't like it whipped, and I don't like it hot.
+
+[30:52] Uh-huh. You don't like cooked fish very much. But you like cooked fish as an ingredient like anchovies. Mm-hmm. Alright.
+
+[30:59] Well, so salt cod, can you think of salt cod as more of an ingredient? Yeah, I guess so. So have you had the fritters, the bacalaitos, fritters? I haven't had those. It's like salt cod dumplings that are fried.
+
+[31:11] It's good. Real good. Stuff delicious. So you might be willing to try that because the fish is more of an ingredient and less of a main thing. So you might also be okay then with like a brandad, where the salt cod is like mixed into wait.
+
+[31:26] You're not like my son Booker and you don't like mashed potatoes, are you? I do, I do. For real? I like mashed potatoes. Okay.
+
+[31:32] So you might also be okay with like a brand where the salt cod is mixed into the mashed potatoes, but it's not about being fish. It's about being like an ingredient. Mm-hmm. Alright, so now we're getting a little more reasonable here. Now, a fish mousse, you're feeling that it's gonna be too much like a cooked fish.
+
+[31:48] Yeah. But you've had it before. Yeah. Alright, so we'll we'll we'll I'll I'll leave it there. How the hell did it even come up?
+
+[31:55] How do you how does that come up that you don't like cooked fish? What about what about fish sticks? No. Wait, you don't like fish sticks? No.
+
+[32:02] Did you ever like fish sticks? Yeah, as a kid. And then what made you stop? At what point? They're gross.
+
+[32:07] They're they're they're not gross. You can make them gross. There can be gross fish sticks, but like fried, uh delicious fried battered fish done well is like a revelation. It's one of God's great foodstuffs, battered fried fish. I mean, Moses, Jack?
+
+[32:23] Yeah, we're just saying in here there's not much better than like fried fish. It's pretty easy. Yeah, it's it's yeah, it's damn simple. I'm not talking like, yeah, yeah, maybe you don't like fried tilapia because tilapia is garbage, it's swimming garbage. You know, or maybe you know, you've had like a bad fried catfish that tastes like dirt.
+
+[32:39] I can't tell, but like uh like a well-done, like battered and fried, I don't know, pick your white fish, like you know, like uh like you know, cod or place from this no? No. Because you think it's des class? No. But you used to like it when you were a kid.
+
+[32:55] Yeah, I just don't like fried fish. Oh, Jesus. Alright, okay. Back to the question. The show's over.
+
+[33:02] Yeah, it's like I'm just too depressed to go on. I'm too I'm too depressed to continue the show. I mean, I don't even understand that. Like, how do you think? Erica Wides is in here and she doesn't really like any kind of product like that, but she even likes fried fish.
+
+[33:14] Of course. I mean, everybody. And fish sticks, too. Yeah, because f all they are is a not quite as good version of a fried fish, right? So you can knock it on a quality basis, but not conceptually.
+
+[33:24] Do you know what I'm saying? But look, what I don't understand is how do you grow up liking something and then all of a sudden not like it anymore? Like did a fried fish beat the crap out of your boyfriend at prom? What the hell happened? You know what I mean?
+
+[33:37] It's like, how do you stop liking fried fish? It's not that she's a vegetarian, my friends, because that would I I could say, okay, she just gave up fish altogether. But this lady pounds sushi and crude o like like she could take the whole freaking ocean down if she wanted to. So it's not a question of that. You know what I mean?
+
+[33:54] I don't get it. Back to the question. I want to double down on the cod. So create a bacalau cream, 250 mils of heavy cream, 250 grams salt cod, rehydrated and chopped, 250 grams rrrissit potatoes, cooked, blend in Vitamix and strain well. Uh you better strain well if you're gonna put it through an EC because uh anything can clog an EC, even like little like you know, too much vanilla seeds can you know, if you get it clumped can clog an easy.
+
+[34:18] For service, I want hot whipped cream texture from this, so I strain into an EC and charge with N2O. I hold it at 50 degrees Celsius or 70, no change in texture. It comes out well enough and attractive foam, somewhere between shaving foam. I like that word. You like that word, Sas?
+
+[34:31] Shaving foam. Shaving foam. Shaving foam and whipped cream. Uh likes it when I put a bunch of H's in them. Whi whipped uh whipped cream, but rather quickly defades into an uninspiring blob.
+
+[34:43] Stas hates blobs, right? What do you hate more? An uninspiring blob or a leaf fungus? Oh god, you know. Uh leaf fungus.
+
+[34:50] Uh if I dispense from the EC at cool room temperature, it holds its shape well. So the heat is causing the foam matrix to destabilize and collapse. Any suggestions how to stabilize this? I expect gelatin will be too soft at 50 to 70. How about agar agar?
+
+[35:03] I've also got Xanthan, but that's the extent of any of my monitor's pantry. Thanks, Chris. Either one will work. If you're gonna do the agar, what I recommend you do is you make a fluid gel of the agar just a little bit in water, do a one percent fluid gel in water and uh dope that in. You're only going to need a little bit to stabilize what what you're doing, uh, most likely.
+
+[35:20] Or if you want, you can make an agar fluid gel with the whip with the cream itself, but don't make it too stiff in that case. You want it like kind of a l like a lighter fluid gel somewhere in the in the in the range of like uh oh like uh yeah seven tenths of a percent, six tenths of a percent, something like this. Yeah, not even, maybe like ha because it's already holding, right? So you only need a little bit of holding power. So I would say maybe like five grams per liter on the cream, five to seven grams per liter.
+
+[35:48] Try somewhere in there of agar agar. Uh Xanthan will also do it. You can also do a light fluid gel on the agar and then add a little Xanthan uh to it to firm it up. You just want to the here's the big issue. Whenever you're doing uh an ISI with a fluid gel, remember that uh it will hold itself in the ISI.
+
+[36:04] So first of all, whenever you do a fluid gel, blend the crap out of it in the Vita prep because it needs to be smooth. Otherwise, it's not a fluid gel, it's just a bunch of little shards of crystals that don't look good. Also, put your finger over the uh uh over the EC whip, over the dispenser on the EC whip every time you're gonna dispense. Flick down, and that'll make sure that all of the fluid gel gets slapped down to where the dispensing nozzle is so that you can dispense properly. Otherwise, kind of no love.
+
+[36:29] But either of those two things uh should work uh without without too much uh trouble because all you're looking to do is hot stabilize and and uh agar will hot stabilize easily up to 70 degrees Celsius. I wouldn't go much higher because the agar is gonna start to melt in around the 85 in the 80 range, but like if you literally are using a circulator to hold it at 70, it's gonna be no problem. So that uh should work. Yeah? Like that says?
+
+[36:53] Mm-hmm. Yeah. Good answer. She doesn't care. Uh Alex in Toronto writes in, dear Dave, Nastasha, and Jack.
+
+[36:59] And now Moses. I stumbled across this video, uh, which there's a link, which you can't see because you're listening to this on the radio, but maybe we'll put it on the uh we'll put it on the thing. I stumbled across, I'll say a video, how about that? I stumbled across a video which describes making a rapid infusion sangria using a cheap uh using the cheap vacuum wine savers. Trade name VacuVan.
+
+[37:21] Uh I would assume this will never suck a vacuum powerful enough to compare with the machines you are used to, but I was wondering if you could give me some sense of how this technique could be used by an extremely frugal home cook. The video claims to create an infusion in about five minutes similar to a 24 hour infusion at atmospheric pressure. If this is true, this would be only slightly slower than E uh EC rapid infusion. Any insights, thoughts or ideas? And here is the link and this will be useless to you.
+
+[37:45] H T P H T T P colon forward forward U2 dot boo forward slash E D L P U L B M U J W. Well it turns out I watched this video and Stas, you will not believe who uh did the video. It's our boy Clifford Endo Gulliber who's awesome. I love that guy. He's like he's like our he's uh he's our giant Palauan friend.
+
+[38:08] Uh and he works now for the Food Network. So if you look up uh food network um food network like you know I don't know Vacuvan Sangria Clifford you should be able to to find this video. And Clifford uh actually was one of our interns back at the French Culinary Institute and uh even though Stas was incredibly mean to him when when he started to uh I believe Stas's exact words when when the because about like three or four people came that first day when he was there, right? And Cl Cliff like loves to, and by the way, Cliff is mentioned in the cocktail book because the Cliff old fashioned is you know was his idea to use that coriander syrup to do the old fashioned. And so he's actually in the cocktail book because we have the Cliff Old Fashion in the cocktail book.
+
+[38:50] Anyway, Stas was like uh Stas was like just like my grandma, we're letting everybody in. Literally, what you said. First of all, why are you calling really bad about what I said about saying you feel bad for Cliff or you feel bad for your grandma? Cliff. Whoa!
+
+[39:08] So like still still throwing some still throwing some slut down on your grandma. No, that wasn't it's no, no. She would like take people in and help, you know, help poor people and stuff. Oh, that wasn't the implication that you gave at the time. You gave the implication that like any guy shows up and it's community chess grandma.
+
+[39:23] That's what you that's that's the way Cliff took it. That's why Cliff was like double horrified. Oh jeez, no. Cliff was like double horrified because his first time he's meeting you, and it's like, I can't believe that this lady's dogging her grandma this way. And which I frankly couldn't believe either.
+
+[39:38] And then at the same time, like being so mean to him before, and by the way, Cliff, extremely awesome guy, like you know, artist, and like, you know. For the first like three months, we just had him move boxes. That is not the case. That is not the case. Anyways, so yes, so the uh the uh using the vacuvan as an infusion technique is a technique developed a long time ago at the French culinary, and but Clifford is using it to good effect to make a sangria, and he actually I looked at the video, he's got some uh elaborations on the technique that uh I don't know.
+
+[40:07] I I like his style because similar to like the way I I was saying things, like if he won if he see the average person like doesn't pay attention, right? Right? Obviously, like Stas is not paying attention right now. Like, literally, right now, Stas is not paying attention. That is the biggest crap.
+
+[40:23] Oh, I hate that argument that people say they can multitask. You can't multitask. That's why, like, that's why last week when on the radio, I was like, Hey, Studz, you're like, oh, I don't know, I didn't hear you because I was trying to do an email. You don't, you're not multitasking. I know that's you're null tasking.
+
+[40:35] People who multitask actually null task. They're getting nothing done. They're called called zero tasking. It's a new thing that I want people to be aware of in the world nowadays, where people try to do so many damn things that they actually do nothing. Like the fact that people are buried in their freaking phones, which I hate.
+
+[40:49] They're buried in their freaking phones. And when you're buried in your phone, right? I guarantee you that the person that you're now texting, when you're with them, you're buried in your phone texting me. It makes no damn sense. Null tasking.
+
+[41:01] Do some damn work. This is why people get frustrated with me. They hate me because uh I don't ever answer emails, I don't return telephone calls or any of this stuff. And the reason is is because when I'm with you, I'm with you. You know what I'm saying?
+
+[41:13] Anyways, it's because I'm old. It's because I'm freaking old. Uh back to Clifford. So uh so he does a sangria where he puts the uh the wine and some fruit juice and some sugar back in the wine bottle. Uh and the the trick, the whole trick when you're using the vacuvan uh to infuse things is to chop things small enough so that they can fit into the wine bottle and so you can shake them back out again.
+
+[41:34] And then he then, what I like about it is he he ba he basically beats you over the head, which I think is wise because as I said, people aren't paying attention. So he tells you to suck, suck some more, suck, suck some more, suck some more, and then you know, you know, with the vacuum. You know what I'm talking about, Stas? Yeah, yeah. Yeah, what am I talking about?
+
+[41:49] Vacuum, sucking the wine in it. Alright, right. So, like uh sucking uh have to test her like this, like a little child, like like my 10-year-old. Uh so you're sucking out suck some more, and then he says, and when you're done sucking, suck some more, which I appreciate. This is good advice from Clifford.
+
+[42:03] But then he has this uh technique where he says to lay it on its side to infuse. Now, what you're doing there, by the way, with the vacuvan, is you're just uh it vacuuman is not very good at sucking a vacuum, like in terms of the actual absolute level of vacuum that it can suck, but the advantage that you have if you suck for minutes at a time time on it, is that you're constantly drawing air out of the fruit. In this case, he put apples into the sangria. You're constantly drawing air out the entire time you're doing it. And uh so even though you never get a very good vacuum, you're constantly removing air from the bottle, and therefore you're sucking more and more air out.
+
+[42:33] This is what's allowing the infusion to happen, is the fact that you let the air out. So then he rests it on its side. And I don't really know why. After the next time I talked to Clifford, I don't know why he tells you to rest the bottle on its side. That's kind of like the elaboration that I didn't I I hadn't thought about before.
+
+[42:46] I don't really know why he did it. We used to agitate it, shaking back and forth, but I don't know why he laid it outside. Anyways, I'm sure he's got a good reason. It has to be maybe he tested it maybe, or that's better for surface area contact ratio, something like this. Too many warning.
+
+[42:58] All right. So then he pop then he you pop it, which he didn't show. When you pop it, that's when the actual sangria stuff is getting injected in. Uh and then if you want, you can actually suck another round on it. But I guess the food network didn't want to do that because there's too much instruction, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah.
+
+[43:11] But anyway, yes, that is a technique you can use. No, it's not quite as good as a uh commercial vacuum machine, but it sure beats nothing. And uh it's not also quite the same as ISI, which you can use. In fact, we did a sangria uh being a vacuum machine, we didn't, but uh Mara from Booker and Dax did it at the uh NRA, not the gun version, the uh National Restaurant Association show. But I'm sure at the at the Rifle Association, they would also appreciate a vacuum-infused sangria, right?
+
+[43:36] Because what goes better with shooting guns than some sangria, right? I guess beer. I guess like your first choice is beer, but then in the summer, if you didn't want a beer, like if you'd already had a beer or you wanted something else and you were gonna shoot guns, sangria might be a nice choice. Jack, what do you think about guns and sangria? Are you for it?
+
+[43:50] I'm not a huge sangria guy. Really? Or a gun guy. Yeah. You don't like sh you're wait.
+
+[43:55] Wait. Well, after that shooting that happened this weekend, I don't really think we should talk about that. Wow. Stas. Jesus Christ.
+
+[44:02] That's a whole nother show. That's a whole nother show. That's another show. Like the fact of the matter is is that I'm not going to get into it now because now Stas is trying to make me feel bad. But we will talk about it later.
+
+[44:14] They like the fact of the matter is is that target shooting is fun. No? I've just never done it. Yeah, it sounds fun. Yeah.
+
+[44:21] Moses. Never done it. I would want to if I had a chance. Yeah. Um, but again, I hadn't even thought about that because I haven't been watching the news, so probably a bad time to talk about it.
+
+[44:32] Um, in the uh one minute I have left, uh, the books that I was talking about that the Colombo episode reminded me of were uh the modern French Culinary Art, which is a uh version of the Pella Pratt book. Pella Pratt was one of the was one of the great cookbooks. Uh he was the guy who started the Court and Blue cooking school in the 1800s, and he wrote this book, which I think came out in the 20s or 30s at the end of his career, and it's kind of one of the key kind of cookbooks. It's awesome. In fact, Jacques Popin uh listed that as one of his favorite possessions was his Pella Pratt when he was an apprentice in his book The Apprentice.
+
+[45:04] It's an amazing cookbook, fantastic. And the best edition for English speakers that I've ever seen is the one that was put out in the 70s by Virtue and Co. Uh, and I bought it back in the day at the Strand. Strand uh bookstore, you know, like like 15, 20 years ago, wasn't air conditioned, and so you walked in there and everyone was viciously mean to you. And but there also wasn't a lot, like things were really cheap.
+
+[45:25] They were like half price off the cover, and there wasn't a lot of searching about and trying to figure out the true value of a book, unless it was a real collector's book. So you could get things ridiculously cheap, ridiculously cheap. And so I was there looking for uh LaRoos Gastronomique was one of my one of the cookbooks that everyone coveted back then, or books that everyone coveted back then. So I would go to the strand and search out good editions of LaRoos, because all the editions are different. And I bought, without really knowing, Peleprat uh and this this issue this uh edition from Virtue, and it is freaking amazing.
+
+[45:53] It's got all of those pictures in it, and all those pictures were shot in the 70s, and so it's kind of this amazing window into this book that was written in the 30s, 20s and 30s, with like all of the color pictures that you get from a book that was put in the 70s, but it hadn't been mangled very much because it was not it it hadn't bent to the will of like Nouvelle Cuisine or any of the other stuff that it you know was had or was going on. So it's an amazing uh record of that time. I then saw their other books, buffets and receptions, which is oh my god, ridiculous. And some of the stuff in Colombo also in that is like uh you have to see this book from the 70s, uh, and then uh The New International Confectioner. These are the three kind of books uh from them, and they're still ridiculously cheap.
+
+[46:32] I recommend going out and buying them. And then in advance of this, I went out and bought uh just this morning because these books aren't most of these books aren't collectible yet. So they're uh still extremely cheap. They're fat, fat, fat books. And if you love looking at old, like awesome, like like continental and French books, which you should if you like anything that's kind of interesting because they're just sick records.
+
+[46:54] Meat dishes meat dishes in the international cuisine. I just bought that for two bucks, cost me 11 dollars to ship it from England. Garnishing and decoration. I don't know if that one's uh as good, but I bought it. Uh Fish and Shellfish, the complete book of meat, and the only one that's so far is collectible, Herring's Dictionary of Classical and Modern Cookery, which you can still get cheaply.
+
+[47:11] For Virtue and Go, this is Cooking Issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes Store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage Underscore Radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network dot org.
+
+[47:38] Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
\ No newline at end of file
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+[0:00] This special program was brought to you by the Dairy Farm Families of Wisconsin, the Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board. Did you know that today Wisconsin produces more than 600 varieties, types, and styles of American, international style, and original cheeses that win more awards than any other state or country? To learn more, visit Eat Wisconsin Cheese dot com. This is Chef Emily Peterson, host of Sharp and Hot. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick, Brooklyn.
+
+[0:29] If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live from Roberta's Pizzeria on the Heritage Radio Network in Bushwick, Brooklyn. Every Tuesday from late, really late today, huh? Son of a gun.
+
+[0:53] Well, supposed to be around 12 to about uh 1245. Speaking of uh or 1250, I don't know. What what time 1250, Jack? Yep, 50. Well, we got uh 50 fifty-five.
+
+[1:02] 5055. We got uh we got our boy uh the uh fearless leader of our uh of our network, Patrick Martins, has a book coming out soon. Yeah. And he's uh he's coming in to talk about it around twelve forty or so, right? Around twelve forty.
+
+[1:15] So we'll round out the uh we'll round out the program with a little bit of discussion of the uh of Patrick's new book. So I'll do that for later. Also, uh we're being we're being brought to us by uh Wisconsin Cheese right now. Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board, yeah. Wisconsin You know, like I was thinking about if you were to actually count all the cheese heads as like a separate cheese variety, you'd have hundreds of thousands of varieties of cheese in Wisconsin.
+
+[1:36] You know what I'm saying? That's right. Yeah, sweet cheese heads. Everyone loves it. You know, I used to have a cheese head hat.
+
+[1:41] I don't know what the hell happened to it. Remember that we used to have the cheese head hat at at uh FCI? It was originally Jeremy's, who was from Wisconsin, Chef Jeremy, who then like kind of donated it to us, and then somehow I think someone stole the cheese head hat. You can't keep one around. People love the cheese head hats so much, even though they're viciously uncomfortable because foam rubber hats are just like so uncomfortable.
+
+[1:59] You ever wear a foam rubber hat for any length of time? You want to take that on as uh something you're gonna do, like wear the foam rubber hat for a long time? Yeah. We shouldn't spend too much time on it, but I did learn recently that cheesehead is a racial slur toward the Dutch. Ooh, well they make some Dutch they make some Dutch style cheeses in uh in Wisconsin, so maybe that's I don't know.
+
+[2:16] But uh in Wisconsin it's no parts racial slur. Who said it was a racial slur against the Dutch? The internet. The internet. And did was there any actual like angry Dutch person somewhere?
+
+[2:26] I mean, I'm sure somewhere, yeah. It's just you know, there's like a database of racial slurs and it was listed. I mean like uh German soldiers used to call the Dutch cheese heads. Well in in in German uh Kazakulpf. Oh, we got a caller.
+
+[2:41] Yeah, all right, caller, you're on the air. Hey Dave, uh it's David from California. How you doing? Got a Yeah, good. I I got a question about pressure cookers.
+
+[2:50] Um I'm up at altitude and uh I can't use uh I really can't use an electric pressure cooker, so is there some way that uh is there some way that I can uh get a setup without getting too DIY uh that I can uh I can sort of have a setup that I can walk away from that I can, you know, set for um uh my my my pressure that I need and then walk away from it uh but have that extended uh pressure that I need at my altitude. Right. So first thing you have to do, so I mean, so obviously at altitude, you can use even like an electric pressure cooker to get to the temperatures that we can down here on our on our you know low altitude setting, right? The first thing you need to do is you need to calculate the uh the pressure difference between where you are and uh and sea level, right? I mean what you need to what you need to do is you need to figure out how many how much excess PSI you need to get to that same temperature.
+
+[3:57] What? Three PSI. Three? So you so you need to pull about eighteen, you need to do about eighteen PSI, uh relative PSI to be getting to my to my atmospheric levels down here where I am. Yeah.
+
+[4:09] Okay. Now there's a couple of ways uh you can do this. Um all of them are obviously not recommended uh by the manufacturers, right? So on the electric pressure cookers like uh the Cuisinart, you can they're not actually sensing uh pressure, they're sensing uh temperature, so you can mess with it, right? And I I posted an article on that once.
+
+[4:35] I don't necessarily recommend you go and do that because you know risk of danger, etc. etc. Yeah, I've I've seen that article and uh that's it's that's above my head anyway. So then the the next two, like like depending on I I don't know of a good way to alter the uh Fagor style uh pressure cookers that have the little twist knob on them. I don't know, I don't have a good way to modify those.
+
+[4:58] But if you use uh old-style jiggler weight pressure cooker, so Iwatani used to make them, uh, American pressure canner still makes them, right? American pressure canner is interesting, like the problem with it is it's aluminum, and so if you're gonna do a lot of acidic work, uh some people don't don't like it, some people don't like cooking in aluminum, and also like a lot of them are very big. But uh the American pressure cooker canner corp corporation, they're the only people that have a gauge that I really trust, right? Now they're an old jiggler style, which means that it's gonna be venting, which is not ideal, right? Because you know, if you've read my stuff on pressure cooking I don't really like pressure cookers that vent if you're gonna do things like stock that said that said what you can do on any sort of jiggler style is just um what they're fundamentally doing is they have an orifice of known size and then they put a weight a certain weight on it and and by doing that they know kind of at what pressure the steam is going to force the weight off the top and then have it sprayed down right so what you can do is increase the weight.
+
+[5:57] So if you're gonna have like an American pressure canner situation you can just you know add weights to their jiggler weight and in fact the American pressure canner is nice because uh the jiggler weight has like three different uh holes that you can use and they have three different weight settings depending on kind of uh you know how hard it needs to push that to go up so you take the highest one and then you add enough weight has to be down low so it's not off center or anything and then you look at the gauge when it starts venting and you can set it to since you only need three pit psi over pressure right you can do that because none of the safeties on a pressure cooker are going to start engaging until well over three PSI over their limits. Alright? Yeah. Now you yeah you've talked about the the the pressure sterilizer before and I I was looking at that um is it have you ever tried to control that uh with a uh with uh an induction burner um yes but not I didn't try very hard right so yeah you can you can uh put a pressure cooker in uh in a in a in a temperature controlled oil bath on an induction burner and you can do it, right? So the question is is if your if your induction burner is is good, is pretty good, right?
+
+[7:13] Then you, you know, let's say it can with you know it can maintain you know plus or minus four or five degrees, then you could just use uh the sterilizer uh or even uh you know like a like a heavily modded uh regular one with the jiggler and just uh yeah and have it just go to that temperature and you can verify that it's reaching the the temperature you need by looking at the gauge. And I have had I would say moderate success. I was using it because I wanted very even heat transfer when I was doing custards on uh I was trying to do pressure cooked uh durian custard, and I was never able to succeed and remake the one batch that I made by accident one day, which is still a lifelong disappointment for me. But um, yeah, you can do it, but I think you know you're gonna be easier um like on a repeated basis just being able to try and do it on a stove top uh by modifying that that jiggler weight. Now, if you if you're moving to something like a coon recon, right, in a coon recon the uh the pressure is determined by the um spring.
+
+[8:16] There's a there's a spring that um there's a spring that force it that you push down, right? Uh sorry, there's a spring that pushes the uh the valve down, and as it as the pressure increases, it pushes from the inside against the spring up up, and you see first ring, and then you see second ring, and then after the second ring, you still have more pressure, and then after another you know amount of time, then psh the coon recon starts to vent out through that valve, right? My guess is that that venting doesn't happen until around three PSI over pressure over the 15. So I'm guessing you could probably get 18 out of a coon recon before it starts venting, although I'm not sure. Now here's where things get hinky, right?
+
+[9:01] You could uh you could put a stiffer spring into that coon recon thing, or and I'm not saying I recommend this, you could perhaps stretch that spring to give it a little bit of a permanent set so it's a little bit bigger so that you have to put more compression on it to get it uh to the uh right pressure levels. But unless you have some adequate way of measuring, let's say using an oil bath for measuring purposes beforehand, right? Then if you had an oil bath to measure beforehand, you could set it to a temperature that you knew was 18 PSI, which I I forget, the number's gonna be somewhere around 250 something Fahrenheit, right? Uh you could see where it hits, you could stretch the spring out a little bit, reassemble it, and then uh put it at 250 and see where it hits on the valve and figure out roughly how much you've adjusted the pressure that way. Is that make sense?
+
+[9:51] Yeah. Okay. I mean, I don't not I can't recommend any of this crap, but if you have a good induction burner, I would set it to about uh do you remember, do you happen to remember offhand what the temperature is for uh atmospheric for sorry for uh 15 PSI at uh at uh sea level, it's like two fifty something, right? Yeah, it should be two fifty pretty much on the dot, right? Yeah, somewhere around there.
+
+[10:13] So I would say if you have something like let's say you even have a s uh well you hard you could do with a circulator actually, set it to just don't do it in plastic, right? Set it to uh two, don't mean if you have an old metal circulator, I should say, uh set it to two fifty Fahrenheit and uh you know put the thing in the oil bath and just wait a while and see. Well, well, let me start this way. What kind of pressure cooker do you have? Uh I have a coon recon.
+
+[10:35] Okay, good. So set it uh set it, you know, in in that bathroom. If you have an induction burner that can do a pretty accurate two fifty, set it uh with you know, with like you know, it's not a lot of water because you don't want it to take a long time to heat up, you know, like you know, like you know, a finger or so of water. Wait for it to heat up and see where the where the pressure thing hits. And if it hasn't made it to vent level yet, if it's just like you know, it's it's it's over the second ring but not quite venting yet, then you can kind of figure out where you are, then obviously let it cool down and do your modifications.
+
+[11:04] The good news is if you hose it, you can buy that spring and it's not that expensive. Like that spring you can buy it from Coon Recon. I I've had to buy parts from them. I forget whether you have to email them directly or not. But you know, an interesting thing, you know, we maybe we should ask someone like Coon Recon to make a special spring for people who cook at altitude.
+
+[11:22] You know what I'm saying? Because for them it would cost nothing. You know, that would be that would be nice. Yeah. Yeah, but I'm pretty sure you'd be able to tweak it.
+
+[11:30] But um, why don't you give that a shot? And if you could call back with uh with your results, I'd appreciate it because I like to know whether things like this work. Yeah, I I I'd like my Coon Recon to work. I uh you know, I I'd be willing to get the all American uh sterilizer uh i if I need to. But they're a little harder, they're a little harder to work with.
+
+[11:51] I mean, uh honestly I've only used the really, really giant one and I use it because it's really giant, but it's not nearly as you know, it's it's a lot more of a pain in the butt because it doesn't have any gaskets or gasket lists, which is good for some things, but not necessarily good for ease of just using a pressure cooker all the time because it it's got these little uh screw dads that you screw down. It looks like you're like a submarine bulkhead or something like this with these like screw dads that you have to screw all the way around. You have to make sure that they're sealing, because if you don't, you know, do it like you do a tire lug nut. If you don't like go across in a star pattern, you can like torque the the lid of it. Um and you know, they are aluminum.
+
+[12:27] I mean, they're really good at what they're good at, and the gauges are really good, but I don't cook with mine. I use I use it for experiments. So if you can get your Coon Recon to do what you want it to do, I would get your Coon Recon to do it what you want. You might want to buy a spring first and then dork with that spring so that you're not like high and dry in case you do something horrible. You know what I mean?
+
+[12:47] Yeah. Um it's not an expense. And also, if I don't know if like, you know, I often disassemble my Coon Recon uh for cleaning, so it's pretty easy to get to the my memory is it's pretty easy to get to the spring. You just unscrew the unscrew it from the bottom, hold on to the thing, unscrew it from the bottom, and you should be able to pop the entire assembly out for cleaning. And there's just no way of taking a direct temperature measurement in the Coon Recon.
+
+[13:11] There is, but it requires drilling a hole through it. Okay. You know, the other the or temporarily disabling one of one of its safeties. So like there's a there's a rubber safety plug in the side of a Coon Recon. It's a little blue uh silicone uh rubber plug.
+
+[13:26] You need to replace it every once in a while anyway. Mine blew out. That's what I knocked knocked in at the lab like a year ago and like sprayed chicken grease all of a sudden. Remember that stuff? Remember it well, right?
+
+[13:35] Uh so if you get an extra one of those plugs, you can drill under like drill that plug, but under, like only a little bit, and then shove a thermocouple through that plug down into your product and do a direct measure of temperature. But then you're gonna want to throw that plug away and put a fresh plug in when you're done. I mean, that's a I wouldn't run it all the time that way, but it's a temporary way to get it exactly where you want it. And again, those plugs aren't that expensive. So if you get a rebuild kit from Coon Recon, they'll send you the the if you tell them what you need, they'll send you that plug.
+
+[14:04] Uh and again, I would I would drill out your old one because it's always nice to have a fresh plug. Then you know they'll probably send you a new gasket at the same time. I forget exactly what I got, but I got a complete rebuild, including the the stem assembly with a spring. I got the uh the plug and everything. Or you could just get a new plug and measure the temperature right before it starts to vent, so that you could, you know, do it without any spring modification at all.
+
+[14:27] You might be able to get the temperature you need with no modification, you know. Okay. But you see, you know what I'm saying? Do you understand what I'm saying about that plug? That little that little blue plug underneath the if you pull up the uh the coon recons come with a plate that fits over the top, a little like little rattling plate that's meant to deflect steam down, should all crap go wrong.
+
+[14:46] I lost mine years ago, so I don't have one of those plates, but then you know, on that little thing on the inside is a blue is a blue silicone plug that is uh removable from uh it's removable by popping it out. Okay. Alrighty, let me know how what yeah, I I I know exactly what you're talking about. So okay. All right, let me know how it goes.
+
+[15:07] Okay, thanks, Dave. Appreciate it. All right, cool. Um Alexander, oh wait, we were talking what were we talking about, Sash? Uh nothing.
+
+[15:15] We're talking about cheese heads, but cheese heads. Oh, yeah. I think we're done. Uh anyway, my point is my point is is that like it I would like any Dutch person to call to call in and say whether or not they're actually offended by uh by TCS. That's a challenge.
+
+[15:27] That is a challenge. I want I want someone who's actually legitimately offended by this to call in because I don't think that such person exists. We have a caller and he's in studio with a book. Yeah, all right, hold on a sec. We have Patrick Martin's in the studio.
+
+[15:40] Hey, what's up? Nothing, and he's uh he's here uh hawking the Carnivores Manifesto, the new book by Patrick Martins, uh with uh with Mike Edison, who, by the way, was the editor in chief, I believe, of High Times. Yes, he was. Yeah, and uh, but then also did a bunch of he'd done a bunch of other good books with right, like uh he wrote uh Joe Bastyanich's Restaurant Man with him, which is the New York Times bestseller. Yeah.
+
+[16:05] It was about the underbelly of the restaurant world and what it's like to open restaurants, and uh it was a fun book for him to write. He also told me that uh Hugh Hefner hates women. Hugh Efner hates women and he hates Hugh Hefner. Uh he's worked with all of them. Who's the guy from Hustler?
+
+[16:18] I forgot Larry Flint. He loves him, he loves all those guys, but he never liked Hugh Hefner. Well, he said that you know, for whatever else you think about Larry Flint, right? When there's many things you could think about Larry Flint, he said that Larry Flint legitimately not uh when I say likes women, I mean I don't I mean uh I'm not gonna try to portray Hustler as you know uh a paradigm of uh I'm gonna put it this way Larry Flint enjoys the company of women. That's what I mean to say, not likes them in sort of a you know reasonable way.
+
+[16:43] I see what you mean. Yeah. Well, yeah, he uh he's really been on that dark, uh dark underbelly of uh of food, uh uh of life, of culture, and that's why I thought he was a great guy to partner with for the book, because I was not looking to do a traditional, oh, this is sustainability, and these are labels that you need to be looking for at the supermarket. There are basic truths out there. Uh, you know, gastronomy, Carlo Petrini always said uh gastronomy is not a strictly opinion thing.
+
+[17:09] There are facts in gastronomy, some things, you know, that's why 95% of all cheese people think Parmigiano Reggiano is the number one cheese in the world, because there's certain agreement about that. Yeah, although that's although you know that's something that's been cited so many damn times, and I don't You don't believe it. I I don't understand it. The best cheese for what? It's not the best cheese to s to to like to like you know put on a piece of bread when you're eating it.
+
+[17:31] Right, true. I mean, Parmigiano is an amazing, amazing cheese. I love it. I you know, but I hate all sorts of best, best this or that. Like if you were gonna I mean, what's the best cheese to have with a glass of port?
+
+[17:42] It's still like I think everyone agrees that the best cheese they have with a glass of port is still well, I do agree that uh certain best top things are bad, but like uh you know, I don't like top ten lists where there if you do top ten restaurants in New York City, the top ten should always that should be the same list every year, with rare exception that someone gets bumped on or comes on or bumped off. And uh so I I do know what you mean about picking the best, but I like to know what's the best terroir for wine in America. We should start ranking those things because if we're ever gonna see ourselves like France does them and Italy does them, we have to look at ourselves as a gastronomic mosaic around the USA and and recognize expertise where it exists. Georgia makes the best peaches, as does Western Michigan, as does OHI. But New Jersey, that's not the best peach.
+
+[18:32] And by the way, for all the talk about the best tomatoes coming from New Jersey, I don't know if they actually taste it. Whoa. Now you're you're telling me that you've had a better tomato than either the Aunt Ruby's German green or the German uh or the German stripes from uh from Stokes. Is that New Jersey? Yeah.
+
+[18:53] Um well that's a good question. I I can see I crossed the line here, but I mean I think that's better because it's local, although I do have a chapter in my book that says eat the best, not the local to hell with local. I mean, I think I agree with you, like on like on one level I agree with you in that I think what Europe has done really well is say, look, here is a product that has certain characteristics, and let's let's like enumerate and preserve these quality characteristics, right? So in other words, like prosciutto the you know department, they like we can all agree what the best prosciutto de Parma is in stylistic terms, and let's protect that and like give it a label that makes sense, right? It's not saying it's the best ham in the world.
+
+[19:35] It's just saying, you know within Parma, there is a hierarchy. Or there is a particular style, it comes from here, we're the best at it, you can't make it. You know what I mean? Is that I mean I think that maybe we're agreeing. Yeah, yeah, maybe we do agree.
+
+[19:47] I think we agree on most things. So uh and so yeah, so yeah, I think you'll agree when I wrote one chapter was called Alphabet Soup, and it was about your museum of food and drink. And I my last line our museum. Our museum, thanks for making me the vice president. Um I did say it's a giant leap for mankind, and it really is.
+
+[20:06] Because I was saying uh at the fundraiser the other day, you know, if you had said it was sixteen hundred and two guys like you and me were sitting around and be like, let's do a museum that involves animals and all that. Like, what should we do? Wild animals from Africa, and is that the future? Do you think food museums is the future? Back then, almost everybody would have said food museums is the future.
+
+[20:25] And yet, not only has it not been the future, there is not one food museum in the world. That can maintain itself, right? That doesn't matter. And there is a natural history museum in every major city in the world. So it's just funny how it's a hundred percent to zero.
+
+[20:37] There is not one food museum that's like a real big picture food museum. So that's it's a travesty. It is a it's it's crazy. Who would have ever bet their money that there would not be one food museum? But that was just one chapter in the So let's let's talk a little bit about the uh the Carnivores Manifesto.
+
+[20:54] Is it is it out right now? It comes out on June 10th, and unfortunately you cannot buy it on Amazon because my publisher hatchet is out of our with Bezos. Oh, you're uh just worst time every it's gonna be over soon. Uh it was last time. They you never know, but either way, you can buy it on Barnes and Nobles.com, or most importantly, you could support your local bookseller.
+
+[21:13] Or pay you can you buy it from Heritage Radio? Uh yes, it will have copies for Heritage Radio, of course. The profit, yes, that's true. That'll be uh huge, huge uh financial So let's but let's talk about this. I'm presuming that this Amazon thing's gonna blow over because that's bad for both Amazon and the publisher.
+
+[21:32] Well, Hatchet is put down the hatchet. They say we will not tolerate this type of price uh pressure anymore. And so they are, you know, this sounds like one that could last a little longer than the last time. So you're telling me they're mad as well and they're not gonna take it anymore? Yeah, they're just not gonna take it.
+
+[21:46] So let's uh let's look at uh one of the chapters. You mentioned it a little bit, but when you were writing the book, we were talking, and this is kind of the one that's gonna generate the most heat for you personally, is uh is a third chapter to hell with local, eat the best. And so uh that's my my imitation of the case. That's good, thank you. Uh so I mean this is a really interesting thing because usually people and this is something I I hate uh kind of about all commentary of all subjects everywhere, uh, is uh someone who thinks about you and thinks about uh kind of heritage uh foods in general, is gonna they paint they're gonna paint you with the same brush that they paint everyone uh who is involved in the kind of or was like the for instance the one of the founders of Slow Food USA, which you were, right?
+
+[22:30] Paint you all with the same brush. That is you're all local, you all believe you you all have a unified uh you all have a unified view of what uh good food is and what's important and you know what we should be doing. Not the case. I think the average person like this person here that's uh drinking some sort of some of uh ice coffee outside the studio, if I were to ask them whether or not you or someone like you would be a uh like a confirmed local or they would say yes, but in fact, no. Slow food was never about eating local.
+
+[22:58] Carl Pugini founded SoFood if the best anchovies came from Sicily and the best lentils came from Puy France and the best uh, you know, whatever. I mean, he would go anywhere around the world to get the best meal he could. And whereas he always wanted to reward local terroir and local gastronomy. In fact, he was probably the major reason that Barbaresco and Barolo's became so powerful in the mid-80s, early eighties, they were terrible wines, late 70s. He was a big proponent.
+
+[23:29] So you should always try to reward and improve your local terroir, but by saying that uh, you know, no offense, New Jersey has the best tomatoes when perhaps another region, or let's say peaches, it's just not the case. Um you're actually propping up a third-rate product. You're hurting the farmer, you're hurting your own gastro gastronomic experience, and I just think it's important to be the best and to recognize that each region of this country makes certain things. I mean, uh, would you eat I know pigs that wouldn't even hunt for local truffles in Oregon. You know, they would refuse to hunt for them because they're not very tasty.
+
+[24:04] Listen, I'm not gonna get in the in the in the throw down on uh on Oregon uh truffle. They're not the same, clearly. It doesn't mean that they're bad. There's not the same. But you shouldn't eat a Loreg Oregon truffle and be like, this is a fantastic truffle, shave these and use them like you would truffles because it's local.
+
+[24:19] That's ridiculous. They they have a long way to go, and maybe they shouldn't even be focusing on truffles, they should be focusing on other things that the climate is adapted for. Strong words. You know, and I just think uh local is a distance, it's not a guest gastronomic term. Local is just a distance.
+
+[24:35] So is there any moral problem to buying stuff at a distance if you can afford to pay for it? Well, you know, I mean, it's an interesting thing. I mean, I think uh, you know, money is a big thing. I have a thing, uh, one of my chapters is the 140 dollar turkey. I was gonna ask you about that.
+
+[24:52] It to claim uh, you know, uh the the 140 dollar turkey, well, let's say the $10 turkey, the two dollar a pound turkey, it a genetically it's been m manipulated. And the most important chapter in this book is called survival of the fattest. These uh big corporations they breed for genetic misfits if it leads to more profit. So they suffer on that level. They are so sick from their bad genetics, they're forced to grow so fast, so much faster than they can that they need antibiotics pumped into their feed just to survive.
+
+[25:27] Um that's an unhealthy turkey. People shouldn't eat that. And whereas we're not perfect and we know it's always a slow turning of the wheel and it's not an overnight thing. To tell a poor person that they should eat an unhealthy turkey is classist and borders on racism, even. I mean, it's uh it's a classist thing.
+
+[25:47] The poor person should be told the same thing that the rich person is told. You will be unhealthy if you eat that turkey. Now, everyone eats uh a BLT with bad bacon in it that comes from a cure system. We're not a utopic uh book that you know we understand about reality, but the rich person should be told the same as the poor. You don't have a dual standard for what you tell them.
+
+[26:09] And if that one that turkey is a sick turkey and is unhealthy for you, that goes for rich and poor. We might have to eat less meat in this country. That's an answer, but we certainly should never make a different argument to someone because of how much money they have in their bank account. An unhealthy m animal is an unhealthy animal. I mean, this is a long and tough argument, which we should have against them.
+
+[26:28] You should come back on again to have an argument about this because it's hugely, and this is like one of the museum topics in general, it's like hugely difficult. But on more personal level, I mean I think right now, I mean, I think it's it's obvious that you know the average person, you know, where everyone in the family, if there's more than one adult in the family, has to work, you know, uh uh more than they would have uh, you know, 30 years ago, 40 years ago, for less money, and they want to put food on their table, there's a huge disincentive to spend um just culturally. I'm just talking about meat. This is the carnivore. Is that we have, you know, the meat on the table.
+
+[27:18] You get the chicken when you want it, you can have the the the beef when you need it. I mean, this is like this is still like the cultural uh, you know, I you know, ideal of what it means to be a semi-prosperous American. So it's very difficult to tell someone that they shouldn't go buy a product that makes them and their family feel like they're doing well or doing okay. You know what I mean? Well, I think it's more important the way you are inside, the health of your body.
+
+[27:44] I mean, Temple Grandin just came out with the statement that said uh eighty percent of all uh between twenty and eighty percent of all chickens arrive to the slaughterhouse already injured because of how unhealthy their bodies are. Those very same companies dump a lot of the industrial waste from those farms into rivers. So if a poor person eats that chicken, they are complicit in a crime, a crime that I commit too all the time, but they need to know, and everyone needs to kill that elitist argument because we should all strive for the good chicken. And to tell everybody, anybody that they shouldn't. Now I understand you should also strive for meat on your table to be part of the American thing, but we also can't uh unwittingly shield the robber barons from criticism.
+
+[28:28] The Goldman Sachs's of the world and the Purdues. I mean, look, the problem is that I think nobody argues that there's a whole bunch of externalities that don't show up on the price tag at Walmart. You know what I mean? Uh to producing a chicken, let's say. Uh there's a but the you know the issue is is that I think it's very hard to it's very hard to get people to change uh if the price if the price tag remains the way it is and the externalities to producing the crappy chicken or crappy turkey uh don't like make their way down to the price tag, I think it's a hard problem to solve.
+
+[29:00] Well, it is a hard problem. I mean, I personally think pasta is, and we we said uh there's a chapter in there, these are all 52-page essays. So, you know, they're very short essays, and uh the meatball shop, they do it. That uh dinner at the meatball shop competes with the dinner at McDonald's if you order one of their value menus, you know, like six six fifty, five ninety-five. Uh meatball shop.
+
+[29:21] Also, what about pasta with ragoo on it? You're using two amount of meat. Yeah, no, it's yeah, definitely. That's the truth. That's where we have to get.
+
+[29:28] In fact, I write in the Vegetarians You have Blood on Your Hands chapter that this might be the greatest manifesto for vegetarianism ever written because of how critical we are of fast food. Do you know Temple Grandon works for McDonald's? I know, and in fact, I think that now to be fair to Temple, uh McDonald's has co-opted Temple's good work at the slaughterhouse. And by the way, all those animals are killed very well at McDonald's, but they co-opt her good image to uh give the impression that everything they do is good. When in reality the her real effect is on those last few minutes of the animals, and that's hugely important.
+
+[30:06] But the rest of the time they're deforesting, uh they're deforesting at the Amazon, they do all these terrible things. Those animals are pushed to grow faster than they can, uh than they should, and naturally that's why they're cardiovascular, skeletal, respiratory systems cannot grow that fast. I've heard stats that a chicken at slaughter weight is the equivalent of a 349-pound human. When we start doing that to our livestock, and that's a lot of the percentage of the meat we eat in this country, 90 percent, 95 percent, something like that. That's a fact, and survival of the fattest, not the fittest, is a real uh issue that I think this book brings up.
+
+[30:47] And I in fact learned it from Frank Reese, our poultry guy, who was doing this from an ethical perspective, and he's chosen to fight that fight by growing chickens that are not compromised genetically for profit. There's a difference between genetic engineering and you know what farmers do. Farmers breed for certain things too, but they're looking for a balanced animal, one that could survive in nature and reproduce. So this argues for that market. It also does not try to deny the fact that we eat 11 billion livestock.
+
+[31:17] Uh we eat 11 billion livestock in this country, so we should start thinking about how those animals are raised. So uh to ask you one more quickie before we go. So, you know, one of the reasons that uh you know that the meat that you know you you sell at a heritage costs m more than um than you know cra crap crap meat, not only uh is it is the i the this scale on which it's done. Do you believe that fifteen uh twenty years from now it's it will be cheaper it's yeah not as cheap as not as cheap as the crap meat but do you think it will be cheaper per pound because you'll be able to have bet like better distribution routes things like this things that make that kind of thing more economical no no I don't think it will be I think there might be some efficiencies that come up that bring the cost down but um I learned that from Carlo Petrini he says no to raise fifty pigs they grow slower that's one so that means they live longer that's too so you have to feed them more and just so you know a turkey is normally a very discriminating discriminating eater. So what do they do on the corporate farms?
+
+[32:25] They cut off its beak so it can't pick. So all it can do is use its beak as a shovel and they keep the lights on on the indoors it never sees the outdoors they're all artificially inseminated so no sex is ever happening on this farm. So they have turned their face in unelective surgery into disconfigured shovel so that it can shovel their antibiotic ridden this is an animal so sick that they need medicine in their food just to survive their life and they arrived at the solderhouse injured. No it will never be that cheap. That is too cheap.
+
+[32:59] That is plain God that is pushing it like the Nazis did that's a Nazi like thing and I hate to say that word but it's true. Go and go and Hitler on well I mean Purdue and stuff like that and they never say no antibiotics because they can't. Those animals would die in their little uh barns there before they got to weight. So you don't even think it will ever become cheaper. I'm not saying cheap ass.
+
+[33:19] You don't even think it will be cheaper. No, cheaper, yes. I said some efficiencies would happen, and I hope that uh, you know, uh people get into this idea of buying whole lamb. You know, uh you can't get the best lamb in this country and order it in pieces. You pretty much have to commit to a half lamb, cut into pieces, but you commit to the whole lamb.
+
+[33:37] So you know what I mean? Yes, uh, it's it's still an uphill battle, although I s uh I don't think it'll ever be as cheap. I do think it will be a little bit cheaper, and you can save money by I say cooking pastas, buying whole animals. And by the way, I think corporate things, I mean uh McDonald's, that's still a six, seven dollar meal. A pasta is a half that price.
+
+[33:58] So I know that's one's going out and one's eating home. Yeah, but still it's not as much as a depends on whether you how much you know, do you buy the good oil, do you buy the Parmigiano Reggiano price uppity up, uppity, uppity up, you know? No, I mean I just say for meat. So I understand now if I was making the argument that food should be more expensive all around so that we don't do this and that, that would be a problem, and I would be wrong. But I think when it comes to meat, this country just has to eat a little bit less meat.
+
+[34:24] But the pr the way to do that is to embrace the fact that we eat a lot of meat. Not to try to uh first question at any sustainable meat conference, should we eat meat? We do. Eleven billion livestock. Come on, let's get with the program.
+
+[34:39] I'm one example. But since heritage food started in 2004, I see dozens of butcher shops and other distribution systems. The answer is starting to push at the gates. And uh I'm gonna I sense that things will be cheaper and uh but never never that cheap. Cheaper but never cheaper.
+
+[34:55] You will never be cutting off the beaks of turkeys so that they get fat in a third the time as they are intended in nature. That's one of my things. Sex cells. Another thing people forget. Sex, animals that have sex, turkeys are only available for eating in November.
+
+[35:10] Ducks and geese. How come everyone in Charles Dickens book was always eating a duck and a goose in Christmas? Because that's when cycles of the earth, Earth orbiting around the sun, that's when nature gives us those animals. But we artificially inseminate everybody, and that AI, artificial insemination, is how they're able to control and grow these kind of freaks, is because they find a chicken so disfigured, they pull his genetic, pull them from the flock. Not to remove them from the flock, but to artificially inseminate the next generation with his genetics.
+
+[35:39] Maybe that's how I was made. And they bred him with another genius. Okay, well, take the caller, but Pat Patrick, one of the things that you mentioned with quickly is that each like this is a pow pow pow pow book. It's like two page essays. 50 page 50 essays, two page, powder.
+
+[36:00] Middleweight fight. Which is very much like Patrick himself. Why don't you stay around here for because we have a caller we're going to take really quickly? Caller, you're on the air. Thanks, dude.
+
+[36:07] Hey Dave. Uh it's Brandon from Chicago. Hey, how are you doing? Um, thanks. Uh I've got a question about Suzy, barbecue, and cold smoking.
+
+[36:17] Alrighty. Um, so I would like to make some smoked products, uh, and I don't have an actual smoker. I do have a smoker box that burns pellets, and it kicks it out pretty well. Like I'm I'm pretty pleased with it. Uh, but I don't really have an environment where I can use that and also keep the heat below, say, 215 because I'm using my gas grill as sort of the uh you know place where all the smoking happens.
+
+[36:43] So wait, so you have a box that attaches to the grill, like uh like a bron like a whatever they are, Brunson or whatever, that attaches to the side of the grill via via like a port? No, it's uh it's a little tube. Uh it's made by uh Mason products. I don't know if you've heard about them before, but uh you just it's like a drilled out box basically that you you put the pellets in and you just sit it under the grill brakes and uh and just let it go. Right.
+
+[37:08] Um so it does a pretty good job. So uh my dilemma is that I'm either left to sort of cold smoking at sort of ambient temperatures or going above 200 degrees and getting uh you know outside of uh sort of temperature range where I'd like to get if I'm gonna smoke sous vide meats. So I was wondering if you were gonna do some like sous vide smoked pork belly or like a soa'd pork shoulder, first would you smoke it before you put it in the bag or afterwards? Uh and then if you were gonna do it before, how do you deal with having raw meat sitting around uh for hours just you know, kind of at ambient temperatures doing cold smoking. How long is the cold how long is your uh how much smoke do you want to put on?
+
+[37:56] How long do you need to have it in the cold smoker? And are these commodity meats or heritage meats? Like four to six hours maybe. I don't know. I like a lot of smoke on it.
+
+[38:05] Yeah, I mean you could like what some people do is they'll they'll they'll put the meat on like uh, you know, like or over a bed of like uh ice almost to keep it like even below ambient. Like they'll put like a uh a rack over a sheet tray with ice and then let the smoke go around it, and then uh, you know, the ice isn't directly touching the food, but you can actually keep the temperatures down like to where it's you know fairly safe. Um that's one way to do it. Or, you know, uh but the thing is that if you're gonna smoke cold, I would definitely do a a nitrate or you know, nitrite based cure so that you would inhibit any possibility of botulism uh happening um during a cold smoking procedure. Anytime you're gonna cold smoke uh for any length of time, you want to ensure that you're not gonna have um botulism problems.
+
+[38:50] Now, if you're gonna do sous vide afterwards, even if you had caused some you know uh some botulism growth on it, you're gonna you're gonna, you know, if you cook it properly sous vide, you're going to destroy the toxins and destroy the vegetative cells. You obviously won't destroy the spores because d you can't do that with sous vide, but that you know that that's one one way around it. But if you actually want the full sous- vide texture of it, then I would do I would do it before and cold. Now, if you if you want to sous vide it all the way through and you can do a hot smoking fairly quickly, right, then you can you'll overcook the outer sections of the meat, but you can get a good smoke on in a very in a shorter amount of time. If you do if you start uh if you do a a s like a sous vide, cool it all the way down, you can have it almost at you know fridge or below temps, pull it out, let it, you know, let it dry off in the fridge so that it gets a little bit of a pellicle in the fridge instead of the smoker, right?
+
+[39:41] And then throw it in your smoker cold, and then you can throw a hot smoke on it pretty quickly without overcooking through, and then do the rest of the retherm in uh you know in in a lower temp environment and do it that way. So it's all a question of how long you need to smoke it and how cold you can you can keep it. But if you're gonna do any appreciable cold smoking, I would definitely uh nitr nitrate it or nitrite it first. Nitrite it, right? Uh would you do that in a uh so I usually brine stuff before I uh do this and I put in about a gram of uh insecure number one per kilogram?
+
+[40:14] Uh do you think that'd be enough to to you know kick out the the botulism in the nasty, or should I up the in the brine, should I have the percentage? Uh the the insecure insecure one is the one that's n that's uh it's not mixed. You're using the pink stuff, right? I forget what the I forget what the I forget what the ratios are, but like any one of the charcuterie books has like brine levels, and I would just use the same amount of instacure that you would use in like a bacon-based brine recipe. Um, I unfortunately, like I do it so rarely that I don't have the numbers in my head, but like I would just consult any you know fundamental charcuterie manual.
+
+[40:51] Don't obviously consult the ones that are advocating nitr nitrate nitr nitrite free stuff because they're probably not then gonna do something like a cold smoke on it. But anyone that has you know uh a brine recipe with instacure should give you like a decent ratio, and I would just stick with that. Yeah, I wouldn't, especially, you know, if you're doing it um, you know, if you're doing yourself, I wouldn't worry about going like a little bit over. It's not gonna not gonna kill you as much as botulism will. All right, well, thanks.
+
+[41:18] Uh I appreciate it. All right, thanks. Uh let us know, uh, you know, tweet us or call us and let us know how it worked out for you. That's what I was gonna say. All right, well, do you think that's a good thing?
+
+[41:24] I was gonna answer just like you did. Really? All right, cool. We have the same answer. All right, so listen, we're gonna have to go now, but I will say what I didn't answer that I will answer.
+
+[41:31] Uh Rob Trapaz uh called about fiddlehead ferns and ostrich ferns. Actually, very interesting, like uh potential poisoning problems with ostrich ferns uh that are undercooked. I've done some research on it, and I'll get to you next time. Nigel Osin, uh Nigel Olson called in. He's gonna do some gluten-free, uh gluten-free like shoe pastry.
+
+[41:48] And guess who we have on next week, Stas? Lena Clock. Yeah, who is the founder and the chief uh everything officer of Cup for Cup, the uh gluten-free uh flour that is uh that Thomas Keller is also uh selling that their company's called Cup for Cup, and she will be on the show next week. No one will ever call her a quack. So I'll uh I will I will uh I will wait uh to answer your question until then.
+
+[42:12] And Ken and Gramercy talked about Chewy Crust in his pizza. I have a lot of stuff to say about that, but I'm gonna also try to get either maybe I'll try to get uh Jeff Steingarden to call in on that. What do you think? Because he's the master of the Chewy Crust. All right.
+
+[42:25] So those are the questions that I didn't get to that I will get to next week. And Alexander Saunders on the way out wants to know what is a word meaning a soul-wrenching need to sear something, but frustration at the inability to do so. Perhaps something German, tweeting your results, cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[42:59] You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Fairway Market, like no other market, a New York City institution that sells the best local, national, and international artisan foods for prices that can't be beat. For more information, visit Fairway Market.com. I'm Damon Bolti, host of the Speakeasy. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick, Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more.
+
+[0:37] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Marn, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you pre-taped. Pre-taped, right? Stas coming to you pre-taped on the Heritage Radio Network in Bushwick, Brooklyn. If you happen to have gotten our message that we're pre-taping today, you can still call in your questions to 7184972128.
+
+[0:52] That's 718497-2128. Uh today we have a very special uh guest in the studio. We have uh Lena Quak, who is the founder of Cup4Cup. Uh gluten-free, like kind of like the best known, like so for years. For those of you who have celiac, or perhaps you are one of those people that for some reason I don't understand just reduces your gluten intake even though you have no problem with it.
+
+[1:18] Um you know, one of the issues has been that there's been no very good kind of uh straight replacement for wheat flour that works in you know a variety of different recipes. And one of the reasons is because wheat flour is kind of a miracle. So uh, you know, uh Lena was at uh well I'll let her tell the story. Uh welcome to the show. Hi, everyone.
+
+[1:42] Hey, how you doing? And of course we got Stasy here, and we got we got uh Jack over in the booth, and we have Lindsay actually, Linda's uh publicist. So why don't you tell me a little story about uh how Cup for Cup came to exist? And correct me if I'm wrong, it's like the only decent one on the market, right? I don't know if I'd say that, but uh we definitely focus on quality control.
+
+[1:59] So give me give me a little bit of the story. So I actually interned at the French Laundry uh right out of culinary school, and uh one of the things that I noticed was that the chefs work about fourteen to twelve hours a shift, and so these are really creative creature uh creative individuals and um they had no time to experiment with all of their innovative thoughts. And so I wrote out a proposal at the end of my internship to uh create a position, RD chef at the French laundry. And the chef at the time, Corey Lee, he actually uh took this concept and took it to Thomas and I was accepted as the RD chef. And from there I did a lot of dietary restrictions for uh diabetic uh dishes and then also gluten-free and vegans and with the one dish that really resonated well with the chefs were the gluten-free bread.
+
+[2:56] And so from there, uh we started developing products because people were coming in and crying over pieces of bread uh because they haven't had it for seven years. And uh with about a year and a half we dove into this project and started developing a gluten-free flour line. Nice. So now I think something that people might not understand, uh I mean probably listeners to this show understand, but like how much care um you know restaurants, you know, at this level take with people who have everyone knows the chefs hate when people have restrictions, dietary restrictions. Every chef hates it when someone has a dietary restriction, right?
+
+[3:30] They hate it. They hate it, but you know, it's one of these things, there's a there's a divide with chefs. I feel like they are the chefs who, you know, it is it is their style and their as artists, you know, they feel so passionate about what they serve, they want to change anything because it is their piece of work. However, there are other group of chefs who understand also there's it's an experience, you know. And everyone has a preference as an individual.
+
+[3:51] So who are you to also tell an individual how to eat something? You know, and so there's two schools, thought I don't believe one or is better than the other. However, you know, for Thomas, it's really about how a guest takes in that experience. And he wants to make it everything. He doesn't want to dilute anything just because you may have a restriction.
+
+[4:12] Uh so he wants to elevate that whole experience for you. Right. I mean, I think one of the reasons why a lot of chefs hate people with not hate people, this is very it's very badly put. One of the one of the reasons that they they they get all hot and bothered when someone has a dietary restriction is and this is what I think people don't understand is that they are worried. It's not as I mean sometimes it's just ego.
+
+[4:32] But uh a lot of times I think the chef is worried that the person's gonna it's the same as when someone asks for their steak well done. The chef just worries that this person is actually not gonna have a good experience at the restaurant because now the chef has to cook something that the chef doesn't like or chef doesn't respect, or chef doesn't know whether the quality is the same, and they want the quality to be as good uh no matter what they put out. They want to be proud of what they put out and they want all the customers to have, you know, the best possible experience. And I think it's the nervousness that they're not gonna be able to do that in the face of certain dietary restrictions that gets a lot of a lot of chefs bent like a pretzel. But the you know, the fact of the matter is is that the in the more kind of high-end, more expensive restaurants are, the more typically they'll bend over backwards to try to accommodate this stuff if they can.
+
+[5:18] Absolutely. And you know, I think I I completely understand how chefs take this as they want to guide someone's experience to the level that they understand as experts what's going to be the best way to present one dish. But at the same time, those people who have certain, you know, specific needs or you know, they don't particularly like certain things, they're not gonna allow themselves experience that the way maybe a chef would like. And so rather than fighting that, I think it's just give people what they want. You know, they're coming in to have a certain level of expectation.
+
+[5:50] When they sit down, you know, they're paying for their meal, and I really believe that you know you have to accommodate people as they come in because they are your guests, you know. Now, when you're when you're trying to develop something that is uh gluten-free flour that uh works for uh kind of any application, right? I mean, w there's a there's a lot of issues with that because a lot of recipes, right, use one aspect of wheat flour, and a lot of recipes use different aspects of wheat flour. And uh very few, very few things uh you know act like like wheat flour in every kind of situation. So, how did you how did you go about taking up this kind of you know how how did you approach this kind of a problem?
+
+[6:35] God, I'm so glad you brought this up. I can give you a hug because it's so hard to really explain to people, you know, that flour is such a complex single ingredient. You know, if anything, because of my research development through this, I've had such a deeper um appreciation for flour and its performance. But yes, there are different types of wheat flour that people don't really always consider. People always call in about cup for a cup.
+
+[6:59] Can it make bread? And and and yes, you could formulate you know a recipe using that ingredient, but it's not gonna perform the best. Bread flour will because it has higher gluten content. And even all-purpose flour is different from bread flour. And and so I think it's very hard for people to understand that there are there are different applications for just regular flour that you know with cup for cup what I really focused on was what were people missing the most from baking was cookies, quick breads, um pies, biscuits.
+
+[7:32] I felt like that was what the home cook is looking for. So I really needed to develop something that was more like pastry flour if anything however able to perform in different recipes. Right. As a multipurpose. Right because none of those applications rely heavily on gluten.
+
+[7:46] In fact a lot of those a lot of those applications people try to shunt out the gluten in you know in in a lot of ways. So you know those are kind of good good applications but um even frying also it works better with uh like tempura batters because there's no gluten that's going to cause it to be a soggy fry battery do you like tempura? I I don't me personally I don't like to eat a lot of fried but uh I definitely like uh crispy yeah I mean that's the thing I think uh tempura I'm gonna get yelled at by somebody but like it's one of those things that I think that you know every everyone thinks it's the most like many like uh very tweaked out Japanese techniques people think that it's kind of the height of the fry and I just I don't think that's necessarily the case. I mean I think that I think that you know I've had some very good tempuro chefs make stuff for me and I'm like yes this is good do I think this is the height of fried no I like the shattered like light fry if sometimes I don't even like a batter actually I like it when that it really is a very thin, shattered fry. If you're talking about specific frying methods.
+
+[8:51] Yeah so tempura is not my favorite because it might be a little thicker, but I've had a wonderful tempura before. Yeah, yeah, it's good, but then it's like also like you need to eat it instantaneously. They under fry it so it's so freaking blonde, and it's like, you know, it's well, whatever. I don't want to uh that don't don't give me a start, don't give me start. So the uh no, but the so but like a lot of the the applications that you say, and I think this is the way to hit things that people miss the most, because a lot of people they're gonna bring up bread the most difficult.
+
+[9:16] I mean the most difficult. But even bread, you know, it's one of those things that uh it takes such technique and years of experience to make good bread, you know. Um and I again it's not something that we're not working on. It's it's gonna be a lot more work than just pastry flour. Right.
+
+[9:34] Now, aside from the gluten, the actual starches, like in other words, wheat starch works differently from other kinds of starches and f for many reasons, right? One is because um of the different kind of the the actual texture of the flour when it's ground, the gran granule structure, right? And then there's how the how the actual structure it is. Now the reason you can't, let's say, just do all rice flour is because it acts totally differently and it will be like a rice bun or a rice noodle, which is not what people are looking for, correct? It's completely different.
+
+[10:04] You know, and I I'll walk through the ingredients. So we have cornstarch, which really acts as r uh when you think about flour and its performance in a recipe, it's a filler. You know, it really is the body of um the body of the recipe in a baking uh formula. And then you have rice flours that is gonna provide more of a textural difference because cornstarch is just too fluffy. And then the other ingredients are really for elasticity purposes, you know.
+
+[10:30] How do you bind? Because that's what flour does as well. It binds and it will be able to, within the baking process, how steam and everything works, hold its shape. And so that's really how the formula goes. So what are the what are the other ones?
+
+[10:43] You have cornstarch, you have rice. What else you got in here? We've got um tapioca, potato starch, xanthom gum, and milk powder, which is another thing that is really important to point out. It adds tenderness. A lot of other gluten-free flours, they have eliminated dairy because they want to it's a larger market when you do dairy-free, gluten-free, everything free, you know.
+
+[11:03] But for for us, when we decided this, if I took out the milk powder, it was gonna be uh less performing flour and milk solids, right? So there's no la lactose in it. No, there is. It's uh it's uh skim milk powder, you know, and um it's very crucial to the baking process. It will create a tender crumb.
+
+[11:22] No, milk proteins are awesome. Yeah, they really are. Um but okay, so you have the the potato, which swells fast, right? Yes. And then you had uh what was the other one?
+
+[11:32] Tapioca. Tapioca's weird. You ever cook with straight tapioca? That's a strange. It is, but it does give that.
+
+[11:38] Showing, showing, foing yeah. It's just no joke. No joke. I mean, have you ever had that uh Brazilian cheese bread? No, I've had Portuguese like corn cheese bread, like broa.
+
+[11:49] No, it's uh blanking out what it's called, but uh it's this it's made with the cassava roots, so tapioca. Oh, yeah, I've had that stuff. And um it's delicious, but it's fried and it's all chewy inside. Yeah, no, that stuff's good. I used to have to, when I was doing uh work on uh puffed stuff, you know, years ago for the blog, I was doing a lot of tapioca doughs and man they're a pain.
+
+[12:09] Especially like they're just like really a pain. They're really pain because you also have to heat them up and then you're working with like galop and then well, so heating up, you bring a good point. So when you're doing um when you're doing a dough that doesn't have any uh gluten in it, I mean one of the things that you know we always used to do is just pre-cook some of the starch because uh you know, when you're working without the gluten, things tend to be kind of like a sandy agglomeration of things. They don't tend to dough up on you. Um they just don't.
+
+[12:36] So like the question is is do you have some precooked in here as well without telling me like how it works, or is it we're able to do it without any pre cooked stuff? No precooked. Because one of the things that was difficult with this process is because uh when we developed the French laundry, you know, French laundry really source from smaller, you know, farmers, um just our resources are more you know, local. And for us to go out to a market and provide nationally, we really need to start uh digging into resources that we could find large volumes for. And so pre pre cooked starches, it's we don't work with that.
+
+[13:14] Yeah, because they're easier to work with, right? They are easier to work with and they're a little more stable, however, the volume of it is just not there. Now I see you have one here called wholesome that says it's dairy-free, uh is a dairy-free product. What do you have in uh in to make up for the dairy in that sucker? So the wholesome flour is actually our first um response back to the public.
+
+[13:36] People are really looking for non GMO. And what we found was it's really in the category, they're missing whole wheat flour. And so this is a solution for the whole wheat flour, nutrient dense performing. Um so no milk powder, but what we did add was ground flax seeds. And so flax seeds, you know, with a little bit more fat, it adds a little texture and also creates that um I guess textural difference in the quick breads and pastries.
+
+[14:03] Right. It does absorb a little bit more water like whole wheat flour does. So oh a flaxseed likes to absorb water. That's that's for sure. Yeah, yeah, flaxseed.
+
+[14:13] Uh I did a well man, I don't even want to get into flaxseed. I mean, presumably it's not like a lot a lot of flaxseed, right? No, but it definitely has its share. So it has equal parts of uh fiber as whole wheat, and then also has uh omega fatty acids contributed by the flax seeds and uh rice bran as well. Did you know that some people like soak and grind up flax seeds and eat that gummy, pulpy stuff on purpose, just like as is.
+
+[14:37] Did you know that? So I was going through a week of like healthy after after uh eating too much and I was gonna grind up some. I was like, ah, I'll just throw in flax seeds into my smoothie. Uh don't ever do any more than uh two tablespoons. No, I mean it's just freaking like it's a freaking gummy nightmare.
+
+[14:54] I mean, it's a it's a natural, yes, yes, fiber, hydrocolloids, it's all great and stuff, which is man. That is some oh man. So now how many how many uh how many flowers do you have in the line now? You have uh So we have the uh cup for cup original line. So it has a pancake waffle, pizza, chocolate brownie, and then our wholesome line, which is actually in stores now at Wayne Sonoma.
+
+[15:18] It is we're gonna look to extend it and release two other products behind it. Okay. Now, you just came last night from uh Del Posto, Mark Ladner is a big f fan of being able to make all of his pastas gluten free. And he uses cup for cup. Which one does he use?
+
+[15:34] The OG? Yes, the OG. Yeah, he uses the OG stuff. Now he actually tasted you out last night on all of all the pastas, right? It was amazing.
+
+[15:41] And I you know, I had heard about Del Posto about a year and a half, and just all of the press they've received with the gluten free pastas. You know, I've I hadn't had a chance to meet Mark and you know, I ran into you guys uh last weekend uh out of you know coincidence. Yeah, by the way, we judged a pie. I think we talked about it we judged a piece we judged we didn't talk about it no no so uh nastasha and I went out to uh UCLA and we were judging a not a pie eating contest a pie making contest right pie making contest two people I should we're not gonna say I'm not gonna say anything positive or negative about the pies because you know just in case nobody just in case well but yeah either like school does like school year's over these these kids they're like freshman sophomores they're not listening to this crap they don't know but like uh so we had to eat like something like twenty two pies and you know 22 pies twenty twenty-two pies you know and you know thankfully like you can have gluten if you if you you know you you happen to have created that like the one kind of gluten free like you know replacement flour but you actually can consume the gluten so we were eating these pies and uh for some reason we didn't like the like the bet like one of the best pie crusts there like I don't know like I was my face was buried in I don't know what the hell happened but you know you had advocated for this I stuck up for them I totally did and I got chewed out but I think it was total you're totally right and then later you were like I can't believe and I was like what what? And then this Nastasha never is gonna freaking let me forget the fact that I let first of all here's what happened.
+
+[17:07] Like okay okay okay okay. So they have this class what's the name of the class at UCLA do you remember? Uh well I I know the event was the food and science but I don't know what the name of the class was. Yeah it's Professor Robot out there she has a class and she teaches it and so you know one of the things she does is she know you're supposed to like learn some science like come up with an experiment and it's based around making apple pie. Right?
+
+[17:29] Which is great. It gets the kids, you know, really excited about making pies. It's the first time diving into it. Yeah, but all of these freaking kids, like not enough salt in the crust. Oh my Jesus.
+
+[17:41] Not enough salt in the crust. People, when you make pie, put salt in the freaking crust. I was like, how much unsalted like crust did you have to eat? Because I think like it's like I think this is the I was yelling at someone else, like all the chefs, we were talking about this before. All the chefs are like, nah, man, use unsalted butter, right?
+
+[17:56] Unsalted butter, mm-hmm. But the problem is is then like people who like maybe like they use a recipe that was was written for salted butter. They don't taste the crust or whatever. It doesn't have any salt in it. I really think someone has to publish an article about how a chef's pinch technically is, I think about a tablespoon.
+
+[18:14] If you if you think about it, and that's why people always, when they say a pinch, they take maybe half a teaspoon and they they throw it in. See, that's the thing. People just need to taste the sun bit the thing and see whether or not like it tastes good. People don't know. Here's another thing.
+
+[18:28] Like uh I you know, as m any of you know, like the I read that book recently, Sugar Salt Fat, and I have some huge issues with that book. Huge issues with that book. Written by Moss, right? Because one of the things is he's like, D do you know that do you know that corporations try to make their food taste good? You know what I mean?
+
+[18:46] I'm like, what? What? And my point is is that especially I think he falls flat in the anti-salt stuff, because you cannot make decent baked goods or decent ice creams without salt. And like people don't know how much salt is in a decent dough. Like when I was growing up, McGee told me there's a there's a famous uh bread book writer who used to cook at one of the schools and was at one of the bakeries out in San Francisco.
+
+[19:12] I forget his name. He came out with a book maybe four years ago. And he says that over the past maybe even twelve to fifteen years, like salt levels have gone up in all of the artisan breads, at least in the West Coast. Because I used to, you know, do like maybe like a percent and a half. People are closer to two percent on bread.
+
+[19:28] Really? Yeah. Dry weight basis. Dryweight based, flower weight basis. You know, and so, you know, I'm still you know, bat back at Weasley one and a half, but you don't need that much in a pie crust, but something, some salt.
+
+[19:38] Well, you have to think about you know, flavors is it's the same thing as com composing music. If you were to only use one note, how flat would that be? But if you add different beats to it, it's really gonna accent like accentuate the sound of it and really focus. And the same thing with flavor. So I actually had a double post, so this great um it was a dried apricot sorbet, and he had he had dusted it with a little salt on top, and it just brightens everything.
+
+[20:04] So you really need that offset flavor to really highlight the dish. Yeah, like unless unless you have salt sensitive hypertension, like salt's your good buddy for flavor. You know what I mean? So anyway, so like they under salted their crust, they undercooked their crust in general, right? They did, but you know, I will have to say it was a really fair stab at everything.
+
+[20:25] Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah. But anyway, so what happened is this one grandma story. This yeah, yeah, so yeah, yeah. I was like, tell the grandma story. So like I rooted for you guys, I just want to let you know.
+
+[20:33] Yeah, yeah, yeah. So here's what happens. So this one this one crew was working on uh on the cooking the apples. That was their shtick. The thickness of the apple slice, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.
+
+[20:42] Yeah, cooking with calipers was the name of their their shtickamajig there, right? And so they're like, okay. So they um they're like, well, our project wasn't about the crust. So for the crust, I just did grandma's crust. I called my grandma, like a real I asked, is this a real live grandma or is this some sort of bull crap you're trying to tell tell me?
+
+[20:59] He's like, no, this is a real live grandma. And I had the crust. I was like, damn, if that crust ain't good. Like that's a crust I want to eat because they had they had like they had coated the top right, it had a little bit of sugar. They crusted, it was beautiful, like it was cooked all the way through, it was actually flaky, it was like I think that was the only pie I gave a five out of five.
+
+[21:16] When on the chart that we had to say where you were like, would you give this to someone with no like questions asked? I said the pie crust, yes. Yeah, yeah. Those guys got hosed. They got nothing.
+
+[21:27] They got they got rippity doodle. They didn't even they got honorable nothing. They got hosed. Mainly because I was sitting there trying to sift through my freaking papers when it was going on, and like we were confused over who, you know, which team was. I'm sorry, grandma's pie people cooking with calipers.
+
+[21:43] My fault. My fault. My fault. All right. So uh let's go on to a quick question we had last week from a reader about gluten-free.
+
+[21:50] Nigel Olson wrote in, hey Dave and Nastasha, because he didn't know you were gonna be on. Uh I love your show. I've been a listener since day one here in Napier, New Zealand, North Island, East Coast, right by the Pacific Ocean, and I've been an avid follower of your work. Um you guys seem the logical people to ask. Could you help me come up with a gluten uh free uh issue?
+
+[22:07] I guess I mean solution. Solution, right? Not the issue. Yeah, solution. I plan on making perfiderols, cream proof clers, that sort of thing, for sale at our local farmers market.
+
+[22:16] I'd like to have a gluten-free option available, but I'm not sure what flour alternative would have the gluten type strength to sustain the shoe pastry's expansion during baking. Now, shoe pastry is interesting because it's pre-cooked, yes, and so you get to you get to mess around a lot more with stuff with the shoe pastry than you would otherwise, right? Uh are you in New Zealand? No, we're not. But you know what really works with the shoe pastry is if you use a blend of different rice flowers.
+
+[22:39] So you're gonna have to use a blend of brown rice and also white glutinous rice to kind of get that um sticky dough. Um I would say probably the same thing though, like like cook butter and then beat the egg. Blend in your rice flowers. I would probably test around fifty percent of both r white and brown rice and then um and use it as weight with a para shoe pastry uh recipe that's what I would say. And it's gonna be okay.
+
+[23:12] It's not gonna have that weird like look see through rice thing? It will, but you know I'm just thinking off the top my head without going into you know di the the formulation of cup for cup too heavily if if it is just for pastry flour, I have seen rice flour blends work well because you're able to cook it and then it it has enough um of that starch quality will it'll roll into a ball and because there is enough steam it will steam up and you you want that hollow center. So I would say rice flour would be the best but for the easiest, you know you'd have to try it out but I'm sure that I'm sure like people who write into this show they don't want easy. If you're gonna do difficult would your stuff work well in a shoe pastry application? Absolutely.
+
+[23:53] Actually if you look up cup for cup um shoe pastry people have done several different variations of recipes using this. Right. So but your stuff not New Zealand. No sorry no um well anywho so yes it can be done and what and the you know one of the things that you like the benefit the benefits you have is like one of the m more difficult things I'm told about working with uh you know non wheat flours is the is the fact that the doughs don't cook here so well but because you're gonna cook the crap out of it beforehand you win. Yeah I think shoe pastry will be a it's gonna be an easier one to figure out with rice flowers, definitely.
+
+[24:32] What would you add to it to have it not be so ricey? That's the thing. Yeah, you're right. Um, you know, I would definitely add a little bit of cornstarch to give it but more of that filler, you know, but you're gonna need the most of it as the body is gonna be the rice. Now when people are doing the stuff at home, do they they try to add stuff that's got like a little more of that nuttiness, right?
+
+[24:53] But then what do they add? They add like buckwheat or something, but buckwheat doesn't act right, right? No, buckwheat doesn't act right. You know what uh uh I like to do a lot too is to toast the flour. You really are able to taste that that nutty flavor from it.
+
+[25:06] Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. So dope in a little bit of the corn. He's not gonna need any of this other stuff like tapio.
+
+[25:12] He's not gonna need that stuff. No, just because you're gonna cook the starches and it's gonna be already such a hard like glob, you know, you're gonna you're gonna be able to get that without having to use tapioca, potato, anything else that's gonna cause it to retract. Right. Yeah, potatoes super swell. Uh the now, the the other thing is for the for the rice flowers, can you just get brown rice flour?
+
+[25:35] The so this is the difficult part. Um when it comes to gluten-free flowers or flowers in general, there are so many different variations of one type of brown rice. You know, you could get pre-gelatinized, you can get certain different grains, you know. The the starch structure, you know, from crop to crop, it will change, you know, and so you that's that's what's gonna be really difficult sourcing, you know. And um it's gonna be it's hard for me to say like one specific is gonna be better than the other right now.
+
+[26:06] Right. Well, also like you know, for instance, like not harping on them, but like Bob's Red Mills, uh like like their their rice flour. I think I've had a package of that once, and it feels totally different from the stuff I buy, you know, in Chinatown, which is like a powder. It's almost like rice, it's almost like starch, it's so powdery. Well, what I noticed is so that was one of the flowers that we tested with, um, cuffer cup originally, and the Asian flowers, they go through a different process.
+
+[26:29] So they soak the grains and then they mill it. So that really produces um a definitely a different flour that has a little more moisture content and it performs completely differently. From like American starches, because we don't go through that process here. Yeah, because also like I've had terrible luck with rice, like grinding your own rice, but oh my god, it's horrible. Like it's just you actually do it?
+
+[26:59] I try it, yeah. Look back when I we, you know, back when I, you know, people, you know, whatever. I try anything once. But like grinding that stuff, it's just like it's like little pelatus nightmares. You know what I mean?
+
+[27:09] Like it doesn't, it's not uh I've actually haven't had any good luck milling my own uh wheat flour either. I mean I have a I have a you know a grain mill, but it's I don't really like it very much. And like the really coarse, the really coarse uh like whole wheat, it's like it's like just a killer. Yeah, you need that. I mean, you need that intense equipment to be able to support that grind.
+
+[27:34] Yeah, I mean, um, yeah, I mean, I love whole wheat flour, but I'm not the stuff that I make. No offense to me. No offense to me. Um wait, so Jack is telling me we're already hosed. We're done.
+
+[27:44] We're already hosed? Yep. Oh. Oh man. All right, well, listen.
+
+[27:49] Uh we were pre-taped this week, so I swear, Rob, next week I will talk. Do you like fiddleheads, ferns? Yes. Did you know this is very strange? But so the fiddlehead fern that we eat is ostrich ferns, right?
+
+[28:01] So we don't eat bracken. Although apparently in Asia, many people eat bracken, and people have eaten bracken in in the US for millennia, you know, Native Americans have eaten bra bracket different kind of fern. So that's like, don't care. Uh but like the uh but the fact of the matter is is that you know, bracken has some well known um has some well known carcinogens in it, like the most well known is I can't pronounce it, but it's like taquilicide from something like this, right? And in fact, some people think that this may like the consumption high consumption of bracken fern might be the reason why there is everyone's looking to figure out why more people get esophageal and stomach cancer in Korea, let's say, or it you know, places around there.
+
+[28:40] And uh so a lot of you know, some people have pegged it on like the inordinate amount of kimchi that's consumed. But then some people are like, hey, how about the bracken? Like we all know that bracken c you know has cancer causing agents in it. But I don't think it's that readily eaten that much in high volume where it would affect it. I don't know.
+
+[28:57] Because I I heard it was because like the stomach cancer rate was a lot to do with alcohol consumption. You think? Yeah, because um I think it's the population 80% aren't able to consume uh they don't have the enzyme to break down alcohol, and so they still consume it, and that's also contributing to the high rate. Right. So the pain the the pain about it is right that that that there you get two copies of the gene, right?
+
+[29:19] So like most uh Caucasian stuff folk like myself have two copies of the stuff that you know for the alcohol dehydrogenase and can break down alcohol like nobody's business, right? Then you have like a whole uh you know, a a whole like a Asian consort of people who have no copies, they're the ones that are gonna go bright red when they're drinking, right? And then you have people who have one copy that don't go bright red. This is the research I've read. They don't go bright red, so they consume alcohol, but they're more likely to get damaged, like having cancers and stuff.
+
+[29:50] So it's like that middle ground where you have one copy where it's like dangerville. I wonder if it's the same because also the Irish population also, because it's the dilation of your your capillaries, where that's why you're turning red. But um, I wonder if it affects different cultures as well. I don't know. I don't know.
+
+[30:07] But uh I will try to research more of the Bracken stuff, but uh the ostrich fern, strangely, just in the past ten years, people have had these weird food poisonings happen from undercooked fiddleheads, uh real ones, ostrich ferns, but nobody knows why. And so uh the good news, Rob, is is it is that if you were gonna get poisoned, it's not a cancer thing, you would have gotten poisoned within about twelve hours. But uh so you're good. Uh but yeah, you we people do recommend that you cook your fiddleheads uh like overcooked them, in fact, like way overcooked them. But I'm gonna look into it more, and I have a lot more information I can get to you next week on.
+
+[30:42] And uh and unfortunately I thought we would have t uh time to get to get Kenan Grammarcy because he had a chewy crust problem with his pizzas. And we could talk about that because I think you know, one of the issues I think people you know, do you know like when when I was growing up, everyone uh all they worried about with with flour was protein content, right? No one was worried about the the way it was milled, the milling fractions of it, and like how the hydration is affected by how the flour is milled. But anyway, we're gonna have to. So important for uh bread flour.
+
+[31:07] But you know what's a quick solution? Go buy cup for cup pizza. Oh, boom! And with that we'll have to leave it. Cooking issues.
+
+[31:20] Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization.
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+[0:00] From simple to gourmet, nothing's fresher or tastier in recipes than homegrown fine ripened veggies and savory herbs. Do you grow your own? With Bonnie Plants, a kitchen garden at your back door or in containers can produce an amazing harvest for cooking and for sharing. Find how-tos, plans, and more at BonniePlants.com. Your recipes might not change, but your results sure will.
+
+[0:25] Fresh, healthy Bonnie veggies and herbs. Get growing. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwig Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues.
+
+[0:50] This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cookie Ashley coming to you live from a birth 33 in Bushwig Brrrrpled on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from roughly 12 to roughly 1245, something like that. Guess who we have in the engineering booth with us today, Stas? Joe. Hello. Joe, how you doing?
+
+[1:07] I'm doing great. So it's so filling in for Jack today. Joe coming back for a guest slot in the engineering booth. Turns out we thought that he just hated us, and that's why he left. But turns out maybe that's not the case.
+
+[1:18] Yeah, I'm here to say I'm sorry. That's what I'm here for. Oh nice. How's the the you know Joe's uh Joe's front man for a band Big Ups? How's Big Ups doing?
+
+[1:25] Good, good. That was part of the reason why I was gone. I was on tour for a whole month in Europe, and uh it was great. But uh so now I'm now I'm here. Tours over and I'm I'm back where I started.
+
+[1:36] So hello everyone. Where's the uh where where in Europe did you tour? Um it was UK for a week and then the Netherlands and Germany, Austria, Czech Republic, Belgium, yeah, all over the place. Oh, so a couple things. One, were the Dutch as tall as there as everyone says they are.
+
+[1:52] There were a few very tall, slender Dutch men that I met, yes. Yeah, yeah, yeah. That's what they it's one of the things they're known for. That the wooden shoes, the licorice. Yes.
+
+[1:59] Um actually probably the best food also that I ate. Really? Yeah, surprisingly. They actually uh most of the countries we went, they didn't really eat green things at all. So uh so that was good to get some nice fresh vegetables.
+
+[2:17] All right, now when you played in uh in Belgium, did you cover Bedlam in Belgium? No, unfortunately. Yeah, next time. We're going back. So yeah, that's that uh I think uh for all you A C D C fans, I believe Bedlam in Belgium might be what is that?
+
+[2:32] Is that on flick of the switch? What's that on? I don't know. Anyway, it's not one of the better loved or better known AC D C songs, but I love any like anything where, you know, AC D C is like crap on the cops in Bel in Belgium stopping me from playing a show. Yeah, they they wrote a whole song about it.
+
+[2:49] So Bedlam in Belgi and they don't pronounce it Belgium they're like Bedlam in Belgium. Unfortunately we're not allowed to play that for you since we don't play copyrighted material anymore, but for you AC DC fans out there. You know, uh a lot of people give A C D C crap because like a lot of their music sounds the same. I mean, assuming, you know, all right, Bon Scott, the original singer died, and then you got your you know, your Brian Johnson afterwards, right? But aside from that, like we're just like, Whoa, all the music sounds the same, but then you know, Angus, who's you know, you know, uh, you know, their guitarist there, and you know, one of the guys that's been there the whole time, he's like, Well, if it sounded different, it wouldn't be an A C D C song, would it?
+
+[3:25] You know what I mean? Yeah, it's what do you what do you want from A C D C besides A C D C Yeah? I don't want I mean I don't need A C D C to do a Neil Young song or a Neil Diamond song for that matter. Neither of those things needs to happen. A C D C can just be A C D C all the time, and I think that that's uh, you know, that's kind of good enough, don't you think?
+
+[3:44] I agree. Yeah. Uh all right. So uh calling your questions to 7184972128. That's 718-497-2128.
+
+[3:52] Oh, hey, I didn't say hi to Stas yet. Hi. How you doing? Good. What's going on?
+
+[3:55] Nothing. That's a lie. I was just uh doing our expenses and I saw the smoke detector expense. Oh yeah, we had to in order to get insured as a company, even though it's just Stas and I work in there, and really no one cares if we go up in a puff of smoke or not, but uh in order for an insurance company to uh to you know rate us, we had to put uh smoke detectors in our in our space, right? And unfortunately well, fortunately, our ceilings are like what, like twelve feet t tall or something.
+
+[4:22] They're tall, you know. I mean it's typical New York, like, you know, tall storefront kind of situation. And uh so I was like, oh this is gonna end poorly. So I install one downstairs, it has like a three foot ceiling, and then upstairs where you have a twelve foot ceiling, I put one in. And like literally the very I'm not twelve feet tall, by the way.
+
+[4:38] I'm not a slender Dutchman. That's not how it works. But uh so literally the very first thing we tried to cook, right? Like I turned on the Searzol was like ten seconds into putting a sear down on a steak. Weep beep, beep, beep, beep, beep.
+
+[4:53] Stas and I're like, yeah, yeah. Cooking detector, freaking cooking detector. So we we smashed it off the ceiling in about two seconds. We put it back on. If an insurance company is listening, we put it back.
+
+[5:02] Yeah. We did. Ish. Ish, ish. I'm telling you, what what needs to happen is uh i there needs to be some we've had this discussion many times on the radio before, but I think one of the main uh one of the things okay, here's why a lot of people don't cook, right?
+
+[5:19] Uh especially apartments here in the city, right? One, uh they don't know, they're busy or they don't know how to cook, right? That's one. Two, they don't know how to shop in a way that makes it effective or easy to cook, right? I guess maybe that's changing with the whole uh you know online delivery stuff.
+
+[5:33] Do you use that stuff? No. Just for parties? No, I don't. I don't use it at all.
+
+[5:37] I thought you used Fresh Direct. No, I don't use it. Yeah, it's like an eight hour window. Like, uh I I buy what I need. I I'm very efficient when I shop time wise.
+
+[5:46] Like I know exactly where all the stuff is in all the markets that I buy. I know like how to, you know. Mm-hmm. Hmm, sh efficient shopping. Anyway, so they don't know how to shop efficiently and cook efficiently.
+
+[5:55] But uh also there's no ventilation really in most in most uh most apartments here, and even most houses, the ventilation is bad, but and and that leads to smoke and that leads to the fact that smoke detectors go off and people freak out about the smoke detectors. They freak out about it, like that the smoke detector's gonna go off. They flip. There has to be some legal way that you can push like a duration button, right? Like a button that says, for the next two hours I'm gonna be awake and cooking.
+
+[6:23] So shut up. You know what I mean? And then it automatically goes back into like full vigilance mode, you know, so that when you're sleeping, you don't burn up in you know in your sleep. You know what I mean? It's gotta be a way.
+
+[6:34] Uh but I was talking about for new things, Mark's Kickstarter, which you can talk about in a minute. Maybe we can get him on next week. Anyway, caller, you're on the air. Hey Dave, uh hey Nastasha, everybody. Um got a question.
+
+[6:45] Uh this is Drew from Virginia. Um I got a question about um you you talk about adding calcium to uh to like pickles and different things you want to keep crisp. What kind of calcium are you adding? I mean, just calcium chloride or there are other types? Right.
+
+[6:59] So calcium chloride, as you know, tastes bad, but it's the cheapest form of calcium and also the most available form of calcium. So I think a lot depends on on what you're what you're gonna do. So if you're gonna do like uh a calcium uh like a calcium treatment, um you can you can do uh calcium chloride for uh soak it along with let's say an enzyme like Novo Shape, which is the pectin methylesterase, the strengthening enzyme. You could do a soak for you know, like a day or two and then take it out of that, right? Or just add a small amount of chloride.
+
+[7:34] If you want to add more, you can add the calcium lactate gluconate, but you're gonna run into solubility issues, but it has no taste. Whoops. Well, well I'll I'll answer his question, maybe he'll call back. Um so you want to switch to, I mean, most of the time industrially they're using chloride. It's a you know very small, it penetrates quickly like salt.
+
+[7:53] You can leach it back out, which is what they do uh when they, you know, when they're when they're doing those things, they they they set things in a very high solution of calcium or they strengthen things in a very high calcium chloride solution, and then they take it down to a much lower calcium solution for uh maintenance on uh on things. Um so you can add a small amount of calcium that way in form of calcium chloride, but it does taste terrible. Um you can also use pickling lime, calcium and pickling lime is picklin is uh calcium hydroxide. Uh also you want you wanna do what they do with that one is they add a small amount of it. Uh, you know, well, they actually you add excess because it's not very soluble, it's self limiting.
+
+[8:29] You soak the uh the cucumbers in it for a while, and then you rinse it in um in in in fresh water and then put it in fresh water, let it soak, then put it in fresh water again, let it soak, and then put it again probably in fresh water and let it soak to get rid of the excess calcium uh and calcium hydroxide because they turn really if you're just soak uh cucumbers in uh excess calcium hydroxide solution, pickling lime solution for like a day or two, they're just really gross, just really nasty. Remember, did you taste that that time we did that or did you refuse after the look on my face? Because of the look on my face. See I I I believe you should taste everything even if it's bad, just so you know how bad it is. But Stas doesn't play that game.
+
+[9:09] She's like, no, I don't care. I just don't care. I don't care. I don't need to know how bad it tastes. It tastes bad.
+
+[9:13] So uh yeah so anyway so like uh in pickles if you're gonna use uh they add if you're gonna cook something you can add like a chloride because then as you cook it the the uh the actual natural um enzymes the um the uh pectin methylesterase enzymes that are natural in the in the fruit will activate along with the chloride as it warms up so that's that what they do in I don't believe they add extra enzymes to uh tomatoes. I think they just peel them and then can them with a little bit of calcium chloride and that's why tomatoes are so firm in canned tomatoes. That's why they don't break down the way who are we talking to Stas someone who didn't like canned tomatoes because they didn't like the fact that they didn't break down. I don't know. It was someone I forget who it was it was someone who got all bent bent.
+
+[9:55] All bent. Bent. Anyways Oh you're back? Good hey so uh did you hear that? Were you able to hear what I was saying when uh we were talking or no?
+
+[10:03] Well I'm gonna I I'm not I'm not I w I'm not listening live so I'm gonna catch up with it um on the on the archive which is cool. Yeah what I said was uh you know uh i i chloride I'd use chloride if you're gonna put use like an enzyme uh um uh you know additive like uh like a novo shape or something like that or you could use uh pickling lime calcium hydroxide which you would soak it uh for a for a while. Um I think it's there's a bunch of procedures on the web for it. And then you soak it for a little while in that, but then you soak it for a couple of fresh changes of water to leach out the excess um calcium hydroxide, the cal excess calcium. The good thing about calcium hydroxide is that um it's not very soluble and so it releases calcium into the solution as it's being used by the uh as it's being used by the the pickles so it kind of like self-regulates that way and then you just rinse out the rinse off the excess when when you're done.
+
+[10:58] So that's why I think you know pickling lime is fairly easy to work with. But if you're going to switch to uh you know a less crappy tasting calcium like lactate or lactate glucanate you'd obviously you're gonna have to use more of it. Okay. All right. All right um I have one more question if you got time.
+
+[11:14] Sure. Um I've got some uh I I rented my low lard in the fall and this this year was kind of screwy and I and I've got some leaf lard that's in the freezer and it it's not vacuum sealed so I'm kind of wondering whether it might be rancid or not. But I didn't know if the lard rendering process would wouldn't would just remove the rancidity or was is it just done. I mean it's just over. Yeah no it's uh if it's rancid uh it's over unless but well but look it's only going to go rancid where it's in contact with oxygen right so like I don't know how you packed it down.
+
+[11:49] How'd you pack it down? Well I just put it in uh Ziploc bags and I just tried to squeeze as much air out as possible and as I say it's been there since probably middle of December so it's been there for a solid five months. So yeah in the freezer yeah in the freezer yeah so I mean the good news is there's probably in the in the leaf lard there's probably very little moisture uh so and and you got rid of most of the oxygen so there's a good chance that um you know that it's not rancid but obviously the you you'll know when you open the package and and it comes up to temp whether or not it's it's rancid and if you're lucky it's only you know going to be uh have you know i it won't have traveled you know uh a long distance and m what I would do is just trim out if you see that some of it's rancid or you smell that kind of r you know 'cause everyone, you know, if you cook with lard, you know what rancid lard smells like. If you if you if you have like a some of it, I think you're gonna probably be able to trim away because it was in a big frozen block and the air probably didn't get into you know, you squished it down. The air's not gonna get everywhere.
+
+[12:49] You'll be able to trim out the places where the air got to it. And as long as it was fairly low moisture to begin with and you know like there's not a lot of like uh you know trimming stuff on it right 'cause it's leaf. It's not like, you know, it's not trimmings, right? So uh right, so it's meat free, right? Right.
+
+[13:05] Yeah, well i I mean it was the full pieces and then I and then I kinda cut them down. I was gonna process it in the middle of and Christmas got in the way and it just kinda everything got put off. So I just put it in the freezer so it is chopped up so it but but you're you're pretty much saying that if it's rancid I will know it when I smell it. Oh yeah, hell yeah. Yeah.
+
+[13:23] And then you could trim on and you like if you're lucky you can trim off the same way that you know I mean it's it's a in a liquid the whole thing's gonna go rancid, you know, but in a in a solid like that you have a good chance that uh you have a good chance that the it didn't you know travel all the way through it so that you can probably do some localized trimming. But you'll definitely know, you know, it's that cardboardy have that cardboardy rancid you know off. I don't know that I've ever smelled rancid big pork fat or you know so so I mean I'm just not sure but I the way I'm hearing it is I'll know when I smell it. Alright, so you you know how like okay so you know how like uh when you like cook bacon fat, right? And then you and then you pour the bacon fat off and then you keep saving it, but you d you don't use it fast and it sits and it takes on that smell that's not just an overheated smell.
+
+[14:13] It's that extra added smell, that like kind of off kind of cardboard y kind of smell. Like that's the rancidity in it. You know what I mean? Right, okay. And so if you if you you get that sort of or like you know how you know, if you uh corn oil is a real good one to tell rancidity on.
+
+[14:28] You know how when you get like corn oil and you uh and you you use it once and then you pour it back in the bottle and then it sits there and it's only half, you know, full, and then you open it a couple months later and you smell it, it's got that s that smell, that kind of dusty, cardboard y kind of thing. Like that's the rancidity on that. And so uh you know, you're not gonna get, you know, even if there were a bunch of meat stuff in there when it's frozen, it's not gonna go bad on you. It's not gonna go, you know, it's not gonna be and it's not gonna get that funky, it's not gonna get that funky age smell that you get off of like aged fat either. It's gonna it's just gonna be uh, you know, it's either gonna be fresh or it's gonna have that kind of rancid uh, you know, kind of uh aroma and and taste.
+
+[15:10] And you know what you could do also is just take a 'cause it's gonna be a lot easier to tell on a uh 'cause a little bit of rancidity is good on like a cured meat, you know what I mean? Like we're used to it. So I would I would you know trim off anything that obviously looks kind of discolored or messed up and then uh cut off a small piece, render it out, and then the best way I can tell for measuring oil is uh get a piece of not flavorful like white bread and soak up the oil with the white bread liquid, you know, a little bit warm and taste it, and if it tastes fresh, you're good to go. Okay, good. All right, thanks a bunch.
+
+[15:46] Alright, good luck with it. Alright, thanks, Bye. So Stas, Mark uh Mark Lanner just came out with his uh Kickstarter. Kickstarter. Yeah.
+
+[15:54] How's he doing so far? Good. Yeah? Yeah. What's he asking for?
+
+[15:57] He's asking for eighty five and he has 35. Yeah, what does he really want though? Uh 85. Oh come on. I think he wants I think eighty-five is fine.
+
+[16:09] What he really wants is, you know, a lot. But yeah, here's the thing people don't know about the Kickstarter is like when when people do when we do so when you do a Kickstarter, you know, as we know because we did it we and by the way, not for nothing. We're getting close to getting the stuff shipped in. It's gonna be we're very close to getting the Searsols uh on the water. We're gonna give big updates on the Sears all when they actually uh are on the water, uh which should be very, very soon.
+
+[16:33] Um but uh that's not what I was talking about. When you're doing a Kickstarter, you you like the the worst thing to happen is that you don't reach it. So you have to set your goals low enough so that you know you can reach it, right? And it's also like somehow like in terms of the the mentality of it, people really like uh people really like it when you go way over. So you actually like you know, we were trying to choose a number that we thought we could beat rather handily, you know what I mean?
+
+[16:58] Uh but then it's like this weird thing where you won't choose a number so low that people are like, oh they they got already, I don't need to go on. It's like a really weird psychology with Kickstarter. Yeah. You know what I mean? Yeah.
+
+[17:07] So you want to tell do you want to have him on? How long is the Kickstarter? It's till July fourth or fourth. Does he want to come on and uh do a talk about it? Maybe.
+
+[17:16] But you can see it at Pastafly.com. Pastafly.com. Pastafly. This is the most difficult Kickstarter I've ever seen. What do you mean?
+
+[17:23] Well it's like 'cause it's a concept. Ours was really good because it was a uh thing, you know, like an actual product. And this is so what's it's like content? Well, the concept is gluten free pasta quick served. Like the the like almost truck style, right?
+
+[17:39] Well, yeah, almost truck style. I think. But are they gonna be standalone locations again it will be someday but he's gonna do pop-ups first in colleges around the northeast so gluten free pasta for college kids that is of high quality yeah because his argument is that pasta most pasta sucks right yes yeah yeah and but it's like it has like some old grandma right yes is it the grandma of those of those kids from UCLA that we insulted I hope not. Yes. Yeah well Dave I've well Dave that's my lark voice will Dave up I found the grandma of those pie kids that you insulted.
+
+[18:16] Yeah. But it's not that grandma. No. Is it his grandma? No I think he based it off Cesare's mother so who is a grandma.
+
+[18:24] Who is a grandma, yeah. Yeah yeah yeah so yes fair fair fair. My my grandma not such a good pasta cooker. Okay. What?
+
+[18:33] Is it okay? Yeah. I mean okay. Rob uh Traws wrote in about fiddleheads we're finally getting to it. Uh from Portland not Portland over in uh Beardland, Portland, Maine.
+
+[18:44] Not that you can't grow a beard in Portland, Maine, but it's a different kind and probably it's more although they're both kind of lumberjacky, right? Portland, Maine and Portland uh you know in in Oregon both kind of lumberjacky. Yeah oh speaking of before I get into this question, Rob, I'm getting to your question in a minute. But uh Port when I think of Portland uh Oregon I think uh uh oh by the way Jeffrey Morgenthaler bar out there just came out with a cocktail book you gotta check it out you know Portland. But uh you know Andy Ricker of uh Pacpock who uh you know was before he became also a New York guy Portland guy uh I was just thinking of him because I was thinking of Thailand uh and it came to my attention last week.
+
+[19:23] If you go to the Guardian in UK, Guardian dot UK they did some research. Came to my last uh attention that the largest uh farmed shrimp producer in Thailand who ships all over the world, including to U.S. at like Walmarts and Costco's and you know, all the big box joints like that, and like I think in the UK and like Tesco, all the big places in there, that they um unbelievably use slave labor, literal slave labor. Now they don't directly hire them so that they you know they can't get necessarily caught. But here's how it works.
+
+[19:56] And I was completely shocked. You can go watch an 18-minute video online. And I I didn't even, you know, you think about a lot of stuff when you buy food, you think about sustainability. You like some people think about you know, um, you know, that like whether it's local or not. You know, I remember uh you know Patrick came on saying, don't think about local, local's not important.
+
+[20:15] That's what Patrick Martin was saying uh the other day uh here, uh Martin's. But the uh, you know, people think about that, they think we think about the health, we think about um economics. We tend not to think that our food is made by slaves. You know what I mean? We just tend not to think about you tend not to think that, hey, maybe my food's made by slaves.
+
+[20:33] So what happens is is uh like human uh smugglers, traffickers, uh they go to Burma and they convince people that they're gonna get a job in Thailand because the unemployment in Thailand is very low, right? So, and you know, in Burma not not so low. So they they go, they find people and they're like, hey, we're gonna take you over to Thailand where you're gonna get a good job, right? And they smuggle them into Thailand, and when they get to Thailand, instead of actually giving them a good job. They sell these people to uh ship captains, boat captains, fishing boat captains.
+
+[21:07] And uh what they said in the Guardian was it's like 400 pounds or 450, you know, British pounds. Because British. So like I think I think it was pounds, not dollars, but something like that. So uh a ship captain, this is these are real, this is real, literal, thousands and thousands of people are literally being purchased for like four hundred pounds sterling, right? And then they're on these boats uh and they theoretically have to work until it's paid back.
+
+[21:31] But since they're not paid anything on the boat, they can't ever get it, it never gets paid back. And so they sit there and they are they are treated like slaves in that they are beaten, and if they try to escape, they are beaten and sometimes shot, beat to death, worked uh, you know, every day, seven days, like you know, uh sometimes up to you know 20 hours a day. Uh if they you know uh horrible conditions. They're underfed because they you know they just work them until until basically until they escape or they die. And uh they f they catch trash fish on these boats, and the fish is then uh taken ashore and sold and converted to fish meal, and that fish meal is what's sold to the uh shrimp farms uh and fed to shrimp.
+
+[22:17] So, you know, the the entire industry, the shrimp farming industry is supported on the catch of these trash fish, and a lot of the boats that supply that are uh slave labor. And the and the big the big folks, the you know uh the the the big producer there, I think it's CP, I think I forget, uh, is the doesn't really care one way or the other where the fish meal comes from. So if it comes from you know the sweat of slaves, then so be it. So I encourage all of you to go online, the guardian.uk and look at uh their expose on that. And I did some research, it's not anything completely new.
+
+[22:53] In other words, it's not it's not horse crap, it's real. Like a couple other people have reported on the same thing. Uh and I was just kind of shocked, you know. Kind of shocked uh that that kind of stuff still goes on. Anyway, so uh Dave, we have a caller on the line right now.
+
+[23:08] Okay. Yeah, sure. Caller, you're on the air. Hi. Hey.
+
+[23:14] Um, so hard to follow up on that conversation, but I have a more benign question about uh kitchen ventilation. Okay. As you mentioned earlier. I was wondering I have a about a 90 square foot apartment kitchen. It's separated from the rest of the apartment.
+
+[23:30] Uh and there's a window in it. So the natural ventilation as these things go isn't awful, but obviously it's exit air. It's still a problem. What is is there a cheap solution just to just be getting a exhaust, you know, building an exhaust van and then opening the window and you can intake air when it's operational, or is this sort of system a lot more complicated than you know than just getting an exhaust fan? Okay.
+
+[23:57] So here so I have some experience with this because in my new in my old kitchen, I actually installed an illegal restaurant hood, right? Uh and and piped it directly out of my window. And that worked great because the then in my current kitchen I have uh I j I have a an extremely powerful window fan. Extremely powerful, uh like a huge blower that I have uh you know attached with a register right at my window so that the window, in other words, it looks like a big block is coming out of the top of my window and the window's always a little bit open because the fan is permanently installed there, right? Uh but you can't see it because it looks like Louvers.
+
+[24:33] But it's it's easily twice as powerful as my old as my old fan. Um and quiet. Because when you're when you're buying a fan for ventilation, uh the mistake people make is they get little fans, and little fans spit have to spin very, very quickly to uh get the exhaust flow out. And the faster that a fan spins, the more irritating and loud typically the uh the motor is, right? So you want if you can to figure out a way to get a larger s like a larger fan with uh slower moving um uh blades, and also they like every decent fan is rated on the decibel level, so like they can do a lot of stuff with the geometry of the blades uh to get uh fans that have a lot lower noise rating, and believe me, it's worth spending twice as much on a fan with a lower noise rating because you're gonna be running it for hours and hours and trying to hold normal conversations in the kitchen, and you know, like a bad fan is irritating even like way outside of the kitchen.
+
+[25:33] Then beyond that, you can insulate fans to try and get them, but that's a whole separate thing. So your question was specifically can I just put a window fan in? Here's the issue. Is you where is your stove in relation to the f window? Uh stove is about uh six feet, six, seven feet from the window.
+
+[25:49] Right. So the the issue is is that in a in a hood, you have uh it's a hood over the stuff that's crew that's creating the smoke. Smoke tends to go up, right? And then because the suction is directly over that hood, it tends to gather, suck, and shoot it out the window. So you actually are only evacuating a fairly small amount of space, right?
+
+[26:10] So when you're trying to when you're trying to do a whole room, even if it's contained, you now have to contend with the fact that the you have to evacuate that entire room. So that the capacity, the airflow that you need to get is all of a sudden a lot bigger. So here's how you can help it, right? You can get a fan directly in a window, right? That's going to create some movement away.
+
+[26:31] But the issue is that the smoke is going to go up, and then it's only going to evacuate at the rate that it can evacuate, and then it's going to roll over into the other areas of the house, just because the fan in the window is not sufficient to create an actual movement of air across out of your window. The other problem is that you're going to have is that houses have or apartments have a natural kind of draw to them. So for instance, you need to check to see whether it like like an apartment can either naturally be kind of uh be sucking air out of the hallway or pushing air into the hallway depending on how the airflow in the building works. Also, you know, if you have cross ventilation depending on how the layout of your apartment, you could have cross-ventilation that naturally wants to go one way or naturally wants to go the other way. So you kind of need to figure out what wants to happen in your apartment naturally.
+
+[27:22] So but once you decide to install a window fan, then you need to get air moving out of that window. You need to figure out how to get the best breeze that's floating from the one side of your kitchen towards the window and out. So one way you can do that is install a secondary fan, like a ceiling fan pointed towards uh your vent fan, and that's gonna help create movement such that the entire mass of air wants to move out of your window. Uh or you know, you might be lucky and have a natural draw out of your window, uh your kitchen window anyway, in which case you go into into a different room like the bathroom and open a bunch of windows, anything that's gonna get good cross-ventilation out, and that's gonna assist it out. But it's easy to tell, just make some smoke, open that window, make some smoke and see where it goes, right?
+
+[28:09] And then try to figure out a way to get it just moving out the window in an efficient uh fashion because uh it's harder when you're just putting something in the window versus installing a fake hood. Now you can install a fake hood, and the reason why it's illegal though is because um well, first of all, it's a big pain in the in the butt to do it, but it's illegal because uh uh you know, in a hood, you get a lot of grease going into the hood, and you could have a fire, and they're worried about you ejecting a fire through a vent duct out into the uh into in you know, and that's gonna catch fire, go up and catch the apartment above you on fire. With a window fan, that's not an issue because it there's not a ducting system that they have to worry about. And that's so there's no rules when you have a window fan versus uh a hood. You see what I'm saying?
+
+[28:54] Yeah, yeah. I mean I thought one one other one other thing to consider, and it's you know, it's in favor of the window fan is that it might go stuff like it's one of the apartment really low output gas though. Right. So thinking of getting an induction, you know, one induction burner at least, but that's portable enough that you could place it closer to the window, if not next to the window, and have a shorter path to the exhaust. Does that make sense?
+
+[29:18] Is that you know you could build lock battle cooking or steering on that closer to the X. Do you have 220 in your apartment? No, it's pretty primitive wiring, actually. There's only a couple outlets in the whole mission. Yeah, so uh, you know, even like a decent induction burner that runs off of a standard 120 circuit puts out uh you know enough power to be better than most uh than uh than a crappy home range, right?
+
+[29:46] So yeah, you could win that way having a burner under there. Uh you know, but one thing you could do is, and you could even make it, you know, you know, non permanent if you want, is just uh, you know, put like a, you know, above your window, because you don't want to get rid of light for good, you know, for God's sakes, but you could have like a like almost like a little hood thing over the window that's going to help suck up and out the window. It in other words, yes, cooking right under the window is going to be helpful. And then if you have that fan going there, like uh having like like a bonnet over the top that captures the the the smoke as it goes up and helps funnel the air out the window might also be helpful. You know, otherwise otherwise if it doesn't directly get sucked out by the fan, it'll hit your ceiling and then roll in both directions and then you know down and you're gonna lose some.
+
+[30:29] You know what I mean? Yeah, yeah. So you could try that and that'd be uh fairly fairly easy. Um you know you're still going to run into problems when you're using the oven as opposed to the the you know the the range. I mean in the fan this sort of fan you're looking at something that an industrial and not a consumer you know what's what is there a best you know place to look for something like this for a apartment window.
+
+[30:55] Well also a lot depends I mean if if it's your only source of light in the kitchen, natural light, you have to always uh you know it's a it's a you don't want to take up too much of the window because then you've taken up a lot of the window. But then if you have to do a lot of rigmarole like install the fan every time you want to use it well then you're never going to use it, right? So what I would say is that um you know the the best uh benefit ratio benefit to losing window ratio might be um I don't know how wide your window is but a lot of times you can fit something like two eight inch fans in and then you just want to get the quietest eight-inch fans that you can. Uh, and sometimes they even make ones that are like double fans, and you'll see them in a lot of uh like restaurants will get them uh and they kind of fake use them as ventilation, you know, like uh you know, especially like down in my neighborhood, like in Chinatown. They make fairly small ones.
+
+[31:47] They're not quiet, but they're kind of industrial, and they're on shock mounts so that they're not vibrating like lunatics, and they're just big enough that they're don't have that irritating jet jet engine noise that like the little hood fans do. Uh you know what I'm talking about? Like they have like they look like almost like the one of those things called those oscillating fans that you have on your desks, like that size fan, but the the two of them are mounted on like uh on like a steel on a like a steel plate, and you mount that steel plate in the top of your window and you kick those suckers on and they move some air. That's it, that seems like the best. I mean, I've I've dealt with you know, I've had like plastic versions of those that are pretty limpy.
+
+[32:26] Yeah. And frankly, it's sort of like there's not it's only with like steering and lock hooking where the smoke is actually a huge problem. So I feel like it's you know, it's not like there's you know, the fire on the whole time than just creating smoke constantly when cooking most things. So it's also that's good, like like in early in like late spring, early summer, like when you just need to get some airflow in the house, you like open the you know, it depends on your apartment, but you open the bathroom window and then you open this guy, turn this on, and you suck the stuff through, and you can get a good breeze through the house. You can build up an airflow if it's getting stagnant.
+
+[33:00] So I use my hood for that sometimes too. Yeah, and it it's it's in the there's a smoke detector outside the kitchen on the other side of the wall, but it seems to be sealed enough that you know the smoke detector never goes off, even if the kitchen is you know completely full of smoke, even though the smoke detector's working. So it seems to be a pretty, you know, it it has good cross ventilation through the bathroom, but it's you know, reasonably here, it's like the rest of the apartment. They're just getting a mild amount of exhaust. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
+
+[33:27] If that's the case, then yeah, I mean, uh I would just you want um for sound like for a given uh number of CFMs, uh the smaller the blades that you use to get that level of CFMs, the louder it's gonna be. So it's it but uh the bigger the blade that you use, the more window space you take up. And so that's that's kind of the bargain you're gonna have to drive with yourself. Um you know what I mean? Yeah.
+
+[33:51] Well, this is it this is super helpful. All right, alrighty. Good luck with this. And uh and when you when you install it, give us a call back and uh let us know uh how it worked out. Okay, thank cool.
+
+[34:01] Uh okay, Rob, I'm getting back to your question. So, fiddleheads from Portland, Maine, right? And I'm not gonna get lost in a tangent on Thailand and slave shrimp. You ever used listen to a public enemy? No, you said you were gonna get into it too.
+
+[34:14] Yeah. They have a song about slave ships, and it's like shick slave ships. And now all I can think of is slave shrimp. Um that song, the public enemy song is going in my head with with sl uh with uh uh slave shrimp. And then you don't know that song?
+
+[34:29] Tangent fiddlehead. Fiddleheads, oh my god. Joe, you listen to Public Enemy? Oh my god. No, you don't have to.
+
+[34:37] I I do, but that's all I'm gonna say. Thank you, Joe. Maybe later we can get into it. Okay, I'm not gonna get into it. Great album, though.
+
+[34:47] Okay. Uh I was recently up in Portland, Maine at one of my favorite restaurants and was presented with lightly uh pickled fiddleheads as a garnish to my sandwich board of charcuterie. It was awesome. I was always under the impression that fiddleheads were to be cooked for ten minutes. There was no way this little uh violin was cooked for more than two minutes before being shocked.
+
+[35:05] The fern was bright green, crisp, and appeared to be an ostrich fern. Was definitely not a bracken. Is it safe to eat ostrich-filled heads lightly blanched? Does pickling or pH play a role? I would love to be able to eat ostrich fiddleheads blanched or is crisp refrigerator pickle where the fresh flavor and texture predominates.
+
+[35:23] It seems the bracken fern gave the whole lot of fiddleheads some bad press, resulting in overcooked ferns across the board, but there's little information that I could find on the internet. P.S. can't wait for my pair of Sears alls to arrive, regards Rob Trapas. Uh who, by the way, Rob always very good at providing the pronunciation for his name, which I would uh I would not be able to pronounce uh otherwise. There, you know, I try to appreciate because everyone knows that I cannot pronunciate uh uh pronoun pronunciate.
+
+[35:48] Did I just say pronunciate? Okay. So the issue is this uh a lot of ferns when they're coming when fur you know, the a lot of ferns when they're growing, when the uh fronds first uh come out of the ground in the springtime, they are curled up and they look like uh fiddleheads. You like fiddle studs? Mm-hmm.
+
+[36:03] Okay. So uh so the one like the most common fern in the U in the US, and maybe I don't know, around the world, I have no idea, is uh a bracken fern, right? Bracken ferns um have been eaten for since forever. Like Native Americans eat it. They you know it's eaten a lot in Asia, it's eaten all over the world, bracken ferns, right?
+
+[36:24] But bracken ferns contain uh a uh uh poison, and there's uh you know, uh several of them. Uh and the one that they you know is most prominent is called uh taquilicide, right? And so then there's a huge question of, you know, and and different bracken fern populations, and maybe even plant to plant within a given population have wildly different uh amounts of these poisons in them. They are somewhat water soluble, so they leach out. They can actually leach into groundwater.
+
+[36:52] It's well known that animals that feed on bracken ferns um can have problems, you know, pr you know, pretty bad uh problems. Um, you know, uh blood, anemia problems, things like this. I believe it's also carcinogenic, although I'm not sure. So, but you know, there are a lot of people eat it uh all the time, and so there's a lot of question as to whether or not that's a problem. Now, ostrich ferns are different from bracken.
+
+[37:16] So uh the way you can tell an ostrich fern is uh a fiddlehead is that there's a U, there's a deep U-shaped groove in an ostrich fern. So if you think about fiddlehead stars, when you buy them in the store, like if you imagine them in your head, the inside uh curve of it has like a deep U channel in it, right? So you can obviously tell when you get an ostrich fern, because it's like that. Also, ostrich uh fern fiddleheads aren't hairy, and if you're picking them, there's like a little scaly thing of majig over the curly doodle part of the uh of the fiddlehead, right? So it's pretty easy to tell whether you have an ostrich fern or a bracken when you're when you're getting it.
+
+[37:49] Now, for many, many years, no one had problems with ostrich ferns, uh, or at least not that anyone knew of. And then there was a case in uh in in I think it was either upstate New York or or in Canada, where in 1994 of an actual poisoning incident that happened, food poisoning incident that happened with um ostrich ferns. So uh this is from the um from the I believe this is a CDC, yeah. This is a CDC talking about this original 1994, which was the first time I was able to find any records, and everyone points back to 1994 as the first time there's any problem with fiddleheads, and it goes like this. Fiddleheads, cruisers, of the ostrich fern are a seasonal delicacy, we know this already, uh uh harvested commercially in the northeastern United States and coastal provinces in Canada.
+
+[38:39] Although some common ferns may be poisonous or carcinogenic, this species has been considered to be non-toxic. However, in May 1994, outbreaks of food poisoning were associated with eating raw or lightly cooked fiddlehead ferns in New York and Western Canada. This report summarizes the investigation. So what happened is in 1994, a restaurant in Steuben County, New York uh had uh an illness among 20 people who had eaten at the restaurant, and they determined that it was the people who had eaten these lightly cooked fiddleheads. They were, I think, steamed for a couple of minutes or sauteed and then and then sent out.
+
+[39:11] And the vast majority of people that ate these fiddleheads got sick. And peep no one who hadn't eaten the fiddleheads really at the restaurant got got sick at all. So it was pretty clear that it was this. And it wasn't a bacterial problem, right? Uh, and it was very uh like the the on the there's the good news.
+
+[39:30] The onset of the illness was uh fast, very fast, uh, I think within a day, and also it only lasted for a day and and no nobody died, right? Uh then the same thing happened uh in Quebec in 1999 and in Anchorage, Alaska in 2010, right? So what it appears, what everyone seems to say in the literature is there is some sort of um there is some sort of toxin that's being produced uh by some fiddleheads, some ostrich ferns, right? Not all, but they don't know what it is yet. They know that if you cook the hell out of the ostrich fern, that you're not gonna have a problem.
+
+[40:14] If you cook it for 10 minutes, they know you're not gonna have a problem. They have no other way, since they don't know what it is in the ostrich fern that causes this thing, they don't know how to get rid of it, right? Other than by cooking. They don't know how to test for it. They don't know any of this.
+
+[40:28] All they know is that most of the time a raw ostrich fern is not going to hurt you. And then occasionally you'll get a batch of ostrich ferns that if you eat them undercooked lead to a short-lived but nasty case of gastroenteritis, but not, you know, cancer or you know, some sort of like, you know, uh actual poisoning where you where you know you you die or anything like that. So it looks like, you know, uh you're kind of on your own there. Like if you want to eat them raw or lightly cooked or pickled, you probably won't uh have a problem, i.e. you didn't when you had it in Portland, Maine, but you just never know when you're when you're gonna get a batch that might cause uh this kind of an outbreak.
+
+[41:10] And they like I say, it's not as far as they know, it's not bacterial in nature, so you can't like you know uh use some other technique to get rid of bacteria. Uh so it's interesting problem. And if any of you uh I looked at the most that was the most current research I could find was from 2010, and still nobody seems seems to know what the hell's going on with it, so there you have it. Um they're gonna kick us off pretty soon, right? Yep.
+
+[41:34] So do you have uh do you have your email? I had the question from all right, let me get let me get this up. We had a question in uh from uh long time a listener, uh um Ellie Nasser, right? And saying, Hello, Dave and crew. I was hoping you might be able uh to save me some bucks.
+
+[41:50] I would be and I spoke to him on the Twitter a little bit about this, but I figured I'd read it on here. Uh I would be eternally grateful to you and the cooking issues crew, my poly science immersion circulator, the creative series. Which one's creative series? You remember? Is that the original one?
+
+[42:01] Anyway. Stopped heating the water. It's only about a year and a half old. It only has one year warranty, of course. And poly science wants eighty, of course.
+
+[42:09] That's like something your mom would say. One year, of course. And poly science wants, she doesn't talk like that. Uh poly science wants $85 to look at it plus shipping. The circulator powers up, the pump works perfectly, and the icon for heating, which looked like wave, shows up as if it should be heating the water, but the heater is definitely not actually coming on and heating the water.
+
+[42:27] Any ideas of what I could look for to make it work? Maybe a burnt fuse or something, or should I go ahead and ship it and eat the cost? Well, since it he did that. What I said to him was let's open it, look at it, and seeing, you know, see whether or not you see anything loose or broken. Uh he opened it, and what he saw was that there is the wire or that connects to the heater element was kind of fried and gross looking.
+
+[42:47] And so what I said to him, which is true, is that a lot of circulators, I haven't seen this problem on a modern circulator, like you know, when I say modern, like you know, less than like eight, nine years old. But a lot of the old circulators have a lot of mechanical connections in them between wires and things like heaters, right? Where the the wire is crimped around the heater. Here's what happens in a high moisture environment. So if you store your circulator in a very moist or humid environment, or if you if your kitchen is extremely humid, or you run your circulators in a closet, even though there are fans that try to keep moisture and air outside of the inside of the circulator when it's running, you can get a high moisture environment on the inside of the circulator.
+
+[43:26] What happens then is that the metal contacts uh between, let's say the heater and the uh and the and the heater wire. I've seen it happen in fuse connectors where the fuses pop in because that's a physical connection that's not soldered, uh, those things can corrode. When they corrode, they become a resistor, right? And what resistors do when electricity passes through them is they heat up. And so what you can get is very, very, very hot, locally hot uh spots, and they can be hot enough some places to uh I've had them melt fuses, uh, I've had them uh burn through wires eventually, melt, uh, melt uh you know the insulation around it.
+
+[44:04] And so what you need to do in a situation like that is first of all, like take stock of what happened and try to figure out what like why how it got so humid on the inside of a circulator, but you have to cut off the section of the wire where it is uh is is oxidized because that part's ruined. You don't want because it's hard to solder to it if it's completely ruined like that. Cut that part off, strip a new section, take the old end of the heater where it was all burnt and mangled, take a nail file and cover everything else up because the last thing you want to do is get a metal filing dust in the inside of your circulator. You need to completely cover everything so that filings cannot get into your circulator. And you want to take uh a like a nail file and file or sandpaper the end of the heater so it's bright and clean.
+
+[44:47] Then you can get uh soldering iron and solder because that and that part of the heater doesn't get that hot, and you can solder onto the spade terminal, which is on the end of the heater, you can solder the wire onto it and then wrap some electrical tape or a little heat shrink around it and put it down. And once you solder it, it will not corrode because you've now made an actual connection that air cannot get into no matter what happens, and you're good to go. Um so that is how I would solve uh that problem. And on the way out, we had a question from uh at Clef's on the Twitter, and it was let me find you, Cliffs. Uh cooking issues.
+
+[45:25] Have you tried pulling a vac a vacuum on a Vitamix while it is blending? Is it worth it? Interested in reducing oxitation, oxidation, and cavitation. Uh also good because a lot of things that you blend, like hydrocolloids, and this is why I originally did it years ago, is that when you're blending a hydrocolloid, you whip air into it, and then you either have to suck a vacuum on it or do a lot of stuff to get rid of the air that you blended in, right? So, yes, I've tried to suck a vacuum on a Vitapep, and here's why it doesn't work, Clefs.
+
+[45:51] The bearings in a Vitapep are not completely airtight under pressure. They're airtight under normal circumstances. But when you suck a vacuum on it, which is roughly 15 PSI, you suck air and also like whatever nasty crap is in your bearing up through the bottom of the bearing and into the unit. So it's not possible to suck a good vacuum on uh the Vitapep. If you wanted to, you'd have to install a special sealed bearing on the Vitapep bottom or buy what's called a vacuum whip or vacuum mix, I forget vacuum, which is a dental tool that's used to mix and whip plaster for dental molds without introducing any air into it.
+
+[46:28] But unfortunately they're small now, but it's maybe something we can work on. It's something I've always wanted. And that's it for this week. Cooking shoes.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[46:53] You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by Whole Foods Market, a dynamic leader in the quality food business, a mission-driven company that aims to set the standards of excellence for food retailers. For more information, visit Whole Foods Market.com. Hi, this is Joe Campanelli, the host of In the Drink. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit heritageradio network.org for thousands more.
+
+[0:33] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you live on the Heritage Radio Network in Bushwick, Brooklyn in the back of Roberta's Pizzeria, every Tuesday from roughly 12 to roughly 1245. Joined again with uh Jack. How you doing, Jack? I'm great.
+
+[0:48] Yeah, you're back. Where were you? Where were you on the vacation? Where were we? I vacation.
+
+[0:51] I was I was working. I was performing at Bonroo. Ah, performing, but like for the Heritage Radio or for your band? For my DJ performance collective, we are called full service. So there's full service 16 of us.
+
+[1:05] Are you in fact a full service DJ collective? Yeah. Let me ask you a question, Jack. Now, you know, just based on what you're what you play here, you don't like, you know, spin like wedding hits, right? That's not your own.
+
+[1:16] No, it's not really our gig. Yeah. Okay. But let me ask you a question. Yeah, you can sure.
+
+[1:21] Let me ask you a question. This thing that people do now nowadays at parties where they play like 30 seconds of a song that I really love, and then they throw it into some other song that I may or may not like, but then it's it's only ever like 30 seconds at a time of a song. What what what's with that? What is that? Well, I mean, I guess that's you know, if you're looking for a professional DJ, right, or if someone's making a career as a DJ, you have to do something that sets yourself apart from somebody that might just have Spotify.
+
+[1:49] Because anybody with Spotify could just play a song that everybody knows. Yeah, but to keep up in other words to keep a room grooving, how many of these people, when they're switching this stuff up, keep people's asses pumping the entire time? They don't. They always f flub it. It's always messed.
+
+[2:02] I guess it depends on where you are. And do I really want to hear 30 seconds of hypnotize, or do I want Biggie Smalls to like, you know, bash me all the way through on that thing? Fair point. Yeah. I mean, it's not, you know, I just don't I just don't get it.
+
+[2:14] I just I just don't get it. Like old school DJs, right? They weave stuff in and out, but they're really just kind of like you you lay down a long, a long, long, long track that you can just keep grooving to fundamentally all night, right? And then you can layer tunes in and out of that, but it's not like they're literally playing the tune for 30 seconds and then just doing the crossfade, right? Which is what I feel people are doing now.
+
+[2:35] Or a lot of remixes and stuff. Weak. Alright. Uh so uh I mean, I don't know, do you think it's not weak? Tell me why it's not weak.
+
+[2:43] Why it's not weak? Why would I just describe like 30 seconds of hypnotize and then crossfade into some other song it doesn't even necessarily have the way you're describing that doesn't sound so good. You'd think that these DJs, when they're doing this, would notice everyone's leaving the dance floor. Well, that's your answer. If people are leaving the dance floor, then you're failing.
+
+[3:03] Yeah. Another thing, if any of you are getting married out there, enough with the brown eyed girl. Seriously. Jack, can you dance to brown eye girl at at a wedding? No.
+
+[3:12] I don't really dance at weddings. There you go, DJ. What about you? What have you used to us? I haven't been to a wedding in a while.
+
+[3:17] Yeah, but when you go out dancing, what do you like when they play like those like those songs that are good songs, but they're like you want songs everyone's butt can gyrate to, right? Mm-hmm. And that's pretty much it. Good gyrating beat, buff, buff, buff, buff, buff, enough water on the sidelines so people don't die. You can like finger snap to brown eyed girl, I guess.
+
+[3:33] Yeah, but everyone, look, unless you are freaking Fred Astaire, you're not gonna stand around in front of uh, you know, your friends, family, and god forbid someone that you're trying to get in bed with and snap your fingers. Probably not. Yeah. All right. Listen, we have more time later on this, Jack.
+
+[3:48] Do you have uh Chris on the phone? Uh no, we can get him on the phone right now. Yeah, well, I'll read I'll I'll uh talk about the question a bit and then uh while you're getting him on the phone, we'll try to do this here. So uh I got a question, actually it was into the uh into the Twitter, uh by uh Chuck Schneider asking um about a recipe that was published on uh Chef Steps for Mi Kui. You know, partially cooked?
+
+[4:09] Mikwi. You like that word or don't like it says? You don't like it? Why? What does it sound like to you?
+
+[4:14] Anyway, well, I can't. Chris is not on the phone yet. I thought you're gonna talk about it. Well, I mean, he has to hear the question, so I'm not gonna anyway. So it's about Mikwi uh sandwiches, like, you know, partially cooked.
+
+[4:22] And the question I've got Chris on the line. Hey Chris, how you doing? I'm doing well, how are you, Dave? All right, so uh got a question about one of your Chef Step uh recipes. Uh and I'm I'm presuming it's yours because when someone asked a question, you commented.
+
+[4:36] So I'm assuming that means it's probably your recipe. It's for uh the meek yeah, the Mikwi salmon. And the question was from uh Chuck Schneider. It was uh dear folks, I love the flavor texture of this, meaning your recipe, but curious how it compares to both raw or traditional cooked product, safety-wise. Now, uh just for you know, uh, you want to like give me give me like the 30-second like rundown.
+
+[5:03] The the difference between this low temperature salmon and the one that was the ones that are popularized by like the Roka style cooking that was uh you know came into vogue, I don't know, around 2001, 2002, is that this one is uh cooked, well, cooked in quotes. I'm putt making air quotes around the microphone, and then uh refrigerated afterwards, and actually kept, which is non not the way the uh, you know, the early low temp and sous vide jockeys were doing. So, with that in mind, why don't you give us the like 30 second rundown of the recipe? Sure. Well, the important thing to recognize that it's not only cooked or par cooked, but it's also lightly cured with salt, and so you have two factors improving the safety.
+
+[5:42] You've got a bit of salt that in combination with the heating is more effective at uh at uh providing a margin of safety than heat alone. And for uh for various reasons, we actually tested this recipe with an independent food research laboratory where it was challenge tested uh for a two-week period. And we we actually showed that although the the heating temperature alone wouldn't ensure adequate uh uh margins of safety, the combination of the salt and the heat together uh showed that the recipe was actually quite safe against uh the usual pathogens. Um so we feel pretty confident in recommending it. Uh it was only 40 degrees C, though, right?
+
+[6:21] 40 seconds rundown. Sorry? The cooking temperature was only 40 degrees C, right? That's right. 104.
+
+[6:28] Yeah. So 104 fair enough. Like, in fact, for many bacteria, that's so people let's just let's just get this straight straight straight off the top. Chris, uh no, for those of you that don't know, I don't know how the hell you would be listening to this if you don't know who Chris Young is, but Chris Young is uh one of the founders of Chef Steps, and if you haven't gone to that website yet, I recommend you go right away. Or I would wait 35 minutes and then go.
+
+[6:50] Uh the other uh, you know, also uh, you know, uh one of the authors of Modernist Cuisine, the greatest cookbook achievement of all times. And uh and so there's there's a bunch of things when you're when you're doing food safety, and you know, Chris will we'll chime in in a second. Uh and there's a lot of interesting, interesting words about uh how the health departments across the country and nationally handle food safety in modernist cuisine if you haven't had a chance to read those sections yet. Um I especially like the submarine thing. You like that?
+
+[7:20] It's not really food safety, but that submarine thing changed my life. They I we'll talk about it later, because I don't know Chris is limited on time. But someone remind me to talk about the submarine thing if I haven't already. Is that everyone's favorite section of modernist cuisine or not, Chris? With the with the the butt die.
+
+[7:35] Uh uh it's probably not. Maybe yours. Oh, it's definitely one of mine. I mean, like, I mean, that's like crazy. Uh I have to get into it.
+
+[7:43] I'm sorry. So the the thing is is you know how how how mu how much are like uh germs, let's just call them, uh, on people really spread about, you know. And uh this doctor, a naval doctor on board a submarine, gave uh exams to the sailors and then said that he was testing their their their nether regions, their behinds, uh for something, and instead put uh a phosphorescent powder dye uh uh in their butts, and then uh like a day later walked around the submarine with a UV lamp and the entire freaking sub lit up from the phosphorescent stuff. Is it pretty much accurate? Yeah.
+
+[8:21] And I was like I I yeah, I the funny thing is I don't think it's mentioned who that story came from, but the person, the the sailor in question who told uh us that story was the the the renowned Craig Vintner, uh the decoder of the human genome during his time in the Navy. So he's actually the source of that. So so presumably reputable. Uh I think so. Nice.
+
+[8:42] I like that. That's strong. Strong. So you you heard it here first, folks. Okay.
+
+[8:46] Back to back to what we're saying here. So here's some true statements. Uh the the any food safety uh organization in the world, their job isn't to uh figure out the minimum possible thing that's safe from a bacteria or whatever standpoint uh for a particular recipe. Their job is to provide bulletproof uh uh you know guidelines such that no one can mess things up and no one's gonna get food poisoning such. All of the rules are always overkill, 100% of the time.
+
+[9:18] 100% of the time. Um, the uh but here's the here's the thing. There's a little magical thing in the and the two magic words, because I was going to get in an argument with Chris about like you know the levels, blah, blah, blah. He he said the two magic words which which were challenge study. Now, if if you what a challenge study is is you you you actually usually incubate whatever you're going to cook with the pathogen of choice, and then uh you do your procedure to it, and then they test it uh you know with a certain number of uh uh iterations to prove that that the bacteria of interest doesn't grow.
+
+[9:51] And if your procedure does that, then it's safe. Accurate or no? Yep. Yeah. And and so that that that's that's exactly the approach we we took.
+
+[10:01] We were working with a a food retailer who was interested in this recipe, and and so they they funded this, and uh that recipe was actually put put to the test. And and certainly heating alone as a control would fail. And and if you're if your salmon was unsafe, um you would increase the risk slightly. Although, in my opinion, uh you know what we found from that is it's probably not any safer, even if you skip the salting steps than eating than eating most sushi. Um but if you add the salt in combination with heating, and you start out with a reasonable, you know, obviously you shouldn't have a horrible, nasty product, but if you start out with reasonably fresh salmon, you know, something you get it at a typically a reputable supermarket or fishmonger, and the combination of the salt and the low heating, followed by the chilling in refrigeration was adequate to provide an appropriate margin of safety.
+
+[10:52] Now would you would you avoid pre-butchered fillets? Well, uh in general, we prefer, you know, it's always the less processing your ingredients have had, generally speaking, the safer they're they're going to be because there's less opportunity for surface contamination. So it depends on how concerned you are. If you're very, very risk averse, um, then you know, maybe that you know, maybe you you do want to basically have everything as pristine and handled as little as possible. But you know what?
+
+[11:20] I eat salmon sushi in Seattle, and there was a study that said that one out of four pieces of salmon sushi have viable anti saccid worms. So you know, we we all do that pretty regularly. You know, most of the time, you know, we take some risk and it doesn't hurt us. Right, right. But I mean these are really minor risks.
+
+[11:39] Well, so here's the here are the the two bacteria I'm gonna ask you about, because I'm sure these are the ones that people one of the some of the concerned was botulism and listeria, right? So both of those were tested in the challenge? Uh no, we didn't do that because we were gonna have adequate refrigeration. Um and and you were not gonna have so with botulism, you have to undergo undergo spore outgrowth, and and our process does not allow nearly enough time to basically trigger spore uh spore germination and outgrowth. So botulism out.
+
+[12:11] So you so you're saying that the soak and the pack time prior to cook isn't enough to cause any germination? No. No. I mean, the the whole for the whole process is salt the salt the salt the fillets in a brine, you cook you you vacuum seal them and cook them for an hour, and then they're rapidly brought down to refrigeration temperature. So so you're only in the danger zone about forty five minutes to an hour depending on the sizes of your piece of of salmon, maybe an hour and fifteen minutes including the cool down time.
+
+[12:40] Right. That's just not a very long time for for for bacterial growth. Uh now obviously if you load it up with with with with with viable uh botulinum um uh bacteria rather than the spores or if you load it up with uh listeria bacteria but those are fairly fairly rare and they shouldn't have grown too large numbers to begin with. So really what you're gonna be concerned with are are are is fecal contamination in the form of coliforms and salmonella. And you generally want to look at it at salmonella because if you're killing the salmonella, it's a very very good bet that you're you're killing the other uh other potential uh illness causing bacteria.
+
+[13:16] I mean it would seem to me that like salmonella doesn't grow so well in the it seemed to me that salmonella doesn't grow so well in the fridge but like your your hope is that you're not going to get a listeria growth your hope is that you get it rid of enough listeria or that you inhibit its growth with the salt combo enough that it doesn't grow in the fridge because that's the only one that right but but the other reason is is we're we're looking at refrigeration temperatures of two to three degrees Celsius and so provided uh you know provided you you respect that and you provided you only have a two week shelf life um listeria is a a minor concern. I w you know you you can't say that this is going to be a product that's good for for a month or six weeks because now even at refrigerator temperatures listeria would start to become a concern. So you always you have to keep in mind um what time scale are you talking about too. If if you're gonna basically cook it and uh chill it down and serve it within one to two days, right, uh it this just isn't a very risky procedure. If on the other hand you're a retailer and this might be in your your supply chain for for a week, you really want to know you have you have a a larger margin of safety during refrigerated storage.
+
+[14:21] Okay, so also people should label their bags. Everyone should label their bags, but I think people at home don't do it very much. Label your bags and do you recommend an ice chill down or no? I mean, people at home do weird things with their their fridge. For for starters, you know, just realize that you know any almost anybody's home fridge that I've ever seen would be condemned by a health department.
+
+[14:40] Uh uh fair point, Dave? Yeah, fair point. Uh and then the the other side of it is I read a really weird thing. Like something like 25% of the population changes the temperature of their refrigerator uh seasonally based on how warm or cold it is outside. Why would they do that?
+
+[14:57] I have no idea. I like my brain melted a little bit when when when when I when I read that finding for a large appliance manufacturer. And so, you know, this this was a recipe that was you know meant for chefs and meant for enthusiastic home cooks who are going to be knowledgeable about food safety and be reasonable. And so as long as you know you use high quality ingredients, as long as you do salting and cooking for for relatively short amounts of time, and then as long as you chill it down and keep it in a cold refrigerator, as long as you consume it within a week, this is a very, very safe recipe. Okay, so here's here here's what I'm gonna say, because in case people don't look at the recipe right away, your brine percent was ten percent.
+
+[15:36] So stuff's not gonna be growing in that brine during the brining procedure and the brinding procedure done cold, correct? Yes. Okay. Once you take it out, don't let it sit on the counter in the bag, do your cook step and re-chill it uh, you know, lickety splits so that you stay in the in the evil window as shortest time as possible, correct? Yep.
+
+[15:53] And label the bag and keep it in the coldest part of your uh fridge, or you know, if you can, maybe even on like an ice pack in the fridge. Good point or not good point. Uh exactly. Good point. And but challenge study done and proven safe or proven proven does not decrease the safety level of the fish that you started with appreciably.
+
+[16:13] Proven that it ha proven that it was adequately safe at two weeks. Right. Now, people bear in mind that safety levels are done for different uh things. So there's like uh what we're talking about here is something that doesn't appreciably uh add to uh risks as opposed to completely eliminating risks that are R. So don't dip your salmon in poop and do this recipe.
+
+[16:34] That's right. You need a different recipe if you're gonna dip your salmon in poop beforehand. I I don't want to see that recipe. Hey, but that no, but but like all kidding aside, I mean like a lot of the recipes out there, a lot of the the rules out there where they make you hammer everything are done with the with the fact in mind that you might be horribly contaminated with you know, quite literally with poop. Yeah, and and you know, the the funny thing is we we worry about the risk of say a salmon me quee or a rare uh uh uh a piece of chicken that's still slightly pink, but the inconsistency is we all eat salads with foraged ingredients and and you know we've all had grit in our salad.
+
+[17:14] I mean, that's not just dirt, there's other things mixed in there. So one of the one of the things is you really have to, you know, look at a recipe and say, well, what level of risk am I really taking from that? And where we think what we tend to think is risky is cooked, uh, is often not the riskiest thing we do. Yeah, yeah. Do you have to uh high tail it or can I uh bring up another thing with you real quick?
+
+[17:36] Yeah, I've got a few minutes, so go ahead. All right. So uh I had another question in. Uh this is from uh John Riper in Seattle, and he's actually got another question. I'll take later that uh Chris doesn't need to stay on for but uh I saw also I don't know who's over there is doing it but I know you've done a lot of work with uh cheese and he had a question about his cheese curds.
+
+[17:53] Uh he said the sources I've seen uh for cheese you know cheese curds and cheese uh all use calcium chloride when they want to fortify the calcium levels of milk for firmer curds presume by the way people what happens is is uh during uh the uh pasteurizing and storage process of uh milk that you buy in the store you know um some of the calcium is rendered no longer available you need the calcium there for the binding of the you know it's a it's a it's a uh divalent uh cation you need it there to bind the uh curds together if it's not there you won't get a firm curd and so people add sometimes calcium if they're gonna use store bought milk uh to uh increase the firmness of their curds and his question is why are aren't they using calcium lactate or calcium gluconate is there a good reason or is it just price almost certainly just price in that you're adding very small concentrations so that you don't tend to notice the slight bitterness. Right I mean even I who hate uh calcium chloride I mean the recipes I saw they're using like a hundredth of a percent you know something t tiny so no one's gonna taste that no you know and then you know that that's that's such a minor level of bitterness that uh um you know even super tasters who are people who are hypersensitive to to bitter um I would be surprised if they're really picking up any substantial uh bitterness from that and then the other thing uh yeah so that's that's my opinion is I think it's mostly just the price and convenience factor calcium lactate on a commercial scale is just a lot more expensive than uh calcium uh chloride and and it's also less readily available. Right. So point oh one percent. I mean, I'm that's actually that's gotta be too low.
+
+[19:25] That's a tenth of a gram in a liter. Right? Yeah. That's a tenth of a gram in a liter. So the the one of the things to recognize is you're really just fortifying.
+
+[19:38] Yeah. I would and I would say that that is almost an order of magnitude below the taste threshold. I I would suspect that's pretty near or below. I haven't actually seen uh uh uh any studies on what the threshold is. I mean I'm just saying bitterness.
+
+[20:03] Uh apparent. You're doing ten times less than that. You're doing a gram into ten liters of of first of all, not water, of milk. And a lot of the whey, which is gonna have a lot of that stuff is going to be expelled as well. So you're not going to I mean the calcium's gonna be bound up in the free calcium chloride, a lot of it will be expelled.
+
+[20:23] I mean, uh non-tastable. And another reason to use it is that it you ha can use a lot less than you use of the other ones, and it is extremely soluble, so you don't have any issues where you might have uh I don't know, some piece of grit left over that didn't get dissolved because you didn't agitate it enough and it got strained out or some sort of nightmare situation like that. So I would just stick with the calcium chloride. Uh easier to, you know, easier to purchase, cheaper, and definitely not gonna taste it at that at that level. Right?
+
+[20:51] Okay. Oh, yeah, quite hold on. Can we have them both on? Yeah. All right, caller, you're on the air.
+
+[20:59] Maybe not. Hey there. Hey. Hey Dennis, it's uh Colin down in DC. How you doing?
+
+[21:04] Doing all right. How's it live? Hi, Colin. Uh I don't know if you know this, Colin, whether you're listening, but Chris Young's also on the air with us. So it sounds like uh the last guy was asking something about calcium, but I just had a uh was making some caramelized onions, and you know, I've seen people, you know, uh tendu asalt and uh chymos, all those folks are into using a little baking soda to kind of help it along because of the basicity of it, you know, speeds up the browning.
+
+[21:37] Right. But also, you know, the I tried that and wasn't very impressed because it does make it really mushy because of the it breaks down the pectin, right? Uh but I guess the thinking helps helps. Uh yeah. If you use calcium hydroxide, would that give you the enhanced browning but also keep the pectin firm?
+
+[21:58] Well you're not gonna brow the calcium hydroxide is not so soluble, so you don't want to use it as your yeah, you like you don't want to use it for that application. No. Yeah, okay. But alkaline conditions also speed the the the dissolving of the cell wall. So it really doesn't matter what salt you use to raise the pH, whether you use calcium, whether you use baking soda or calcium hydroxide.
+
+[22:30] But calculation calcium in the the interesting thing about calcium hydroxide, and I have done tests on this, but not with browning because they were done aqueous. Yeah, I see. So using the calcium ions to try to cross link the the the cell the the pectin in the cell wall. Yeah, that works, but but it won't work for your application because calcium hydroxide, you d what you would need to do is a pre-soak in a calcium bath, get the calcium into the vegetables, then lower the pH for the browning. You see what I'm saying?
+
+[22:58] See what I'm saying, Chris? Yeah, yeah. Gotcha. Yeah. Okay, so so so you basically do what uh what ticklers often do where they they infuse uh some calcium salts to keep to keep the pickles crunchier after after retorting.
+
+[23:11] Sure, yeah. Or pressure canning. Right. So you can, for instance, you can do you can do the calcium uh yeah, the you know, you can do the calcium hydroxide in a boil a little bit to do to to prevent uh to prevent the browning of broccoli, let's say, and still keep it crunchy. Mm-hmm.
+
+[23:31] Yeah, yeah. I mean it's we've used it to a lot of other beneficial applications. It just seemed like a place where, you know, it has the it had the hydroxide and it had the calcium all in one spot. Right, but if you if you're just curious if it would kind of kill two birds of one stone, but it wouldn't it would not it would not do the browning kind of stuff that you would get out of like the uh what was it you guys did in the modernist cuisine? Was that butternut squash that you added to the pressure cooker or was it uh uh uh can the the the we did it with certain squash, we do it with banana.
+
+[24:01] We we did it to just about anything we could we could catch. Yeah. But remember they're pressure cooking, so they're gonna make it soft. I don't know that even cross-linked pectin. I mean, look, look at look at uh canned tomatoes.
+
+[24:12] They keep their structure and they've been canned. So it is possible to use calcium to cross link the pectin to keep it uh somewhat intact at retort retort temps. But that's that's a good point, Dave. Yeah, two parts, two part process, or let's go back to the thing we were just talking about, Chris, uh the calcium a little bit of calcium chloride, because I don't think it's gonna take much. You know what I mean?
+
+[24:35] Yeah, I and you uh again I think uh in in with the complex sort of uh mired flavors, I don't think bitterness. I mean you have other things that are gonna be slightly bitter too so I I think that'll just fit the flavor profile so yeah maybe maybe taking your onion slices and and if you have a chamber sealer just do a do a vacuum infusion of of of some uh some calcium water. Yeah hard water. Yeah. Uh and on one last note uh similarly so you know calcium's your divalent ions at least like will crosslink some different uh different types of stuff we use and have you seen that uh with guar gum much do you see much of a effect of calcium and other stuff in the viscosity?
+
+[25:24] I've never seen any I've never seen any uh any ion interactivity with guar. Have you Chris? I mean it's not no and I and I haven't worked with guar as much as I have locus bean gum but no I'm not I I'm I'm just trying to think this too and I don't I wouldn't expect much. I mean lo locus bean gum and guarante I I was kind of curious since uh you know I do a lot of like energy research and what I was looking at you know uh just water water impacts of hydraulic fracturing and of course you use tons of guar gum there and one of their problems in reusing the water is that you know you get an effect of all these geological salts like calcium chlorides and everything that's underground causing stuff in their fluids to crosslink and get thicker and get all messed up. Well don't they use it sound familiar from kitchen stuff, but right.
+
+[26:19] Don't they in fracking fracking isn't it borated? Don't they put use boron? Yeah, boron as well. But uh, you know, it seems like like blonde, zirconium, those those are things will add, but that's not present in a large amount in the geological formations. Whereas the calcium, there's tons of it.
+
+[26:40] So that'll actually end up in uh, you know, it can be like uh, you know, ten percent salinity just of calcium salts in some cases. Right. I mean, I was kind of curious. I won't say I remember it back on to the calcium levels that high. Yeah.
+
+[26:57] I mean, I don't know. I'll look it up. It's interesting to me. Uh I don't know that much about fracking. I know that guar is used because you can rapidly shift the viscosity of it.
+
+[27:04] That's the gimmic, that's the gig, right? I don't know uh how that happens, but I know that whenever you use guar, uh we use guar as a thickener and we ignore calcium and I use guar in dairy and non- Although you know what's interesting. So like no one of my old recipes was uh guar gelan, low acyl gel an mix, and there's definitely a synergy between uh loacyl gelan and guar that doesn't exist with locust being gum. I don't but I was only doing that in a milk-based system and I never tried it in a non-dairy system. So maybe there is some sort of weak calcium uh reactivity that just I've never been a aware of.
+
+[27:39] I can look it up, but it's not my memory. I'll go check the uh handbook of Hydro College, the uh Nusovich Classic, unless there's some newer book I need to look at, but I'll check it out. Okay, well great. Thanks for thanks for silling a bunch of stuff. All right, thank you.
+
+[27:52] Cool. Thanks. Dave. Uh yeah, Chris. For having me on.
+
+[27:56] I I do need to run now. All right, cool. Thanks, Chris. And uh, you know, hopefully uh this is this is good. This is a good part about knowing people is that when someone asks a question that relates to them, we can just call them.
+
+[28:04] Yeah. Always appreciate it. Good to talk to you. Alright, thanks, Chris, and we'll take a break and come back with more cooking issues. Today's program has been brought to you by Whole Foods Market.
+
+[28:26] Seeing a need to help people sort through all the misinformation about healthy eating, Whole Foods Market added a seventh core value to promote the health of our stakeholders through healthy eating education. In our stores, we give you the tools you need for choosing the most nutritious foods and healthy recipes, as well as offering classes with nutritionists and cooking coaches to help inspire good health and well-being. Stop by your local store today and learn more about our Health Starts Here program and wellness clubs, or online at Wholefoodsmarket.com slash health starts here. And oh welcome back to Cooking Issues. That was fun, right?
+
+[29:09] Having Chris on the phone. Yeah. Yeah. Call her. By the way.
+
+[29:12] Stas, what did you think of that? What? What, Jack? What'd you think of the phone, the phone and phone? Two phoners at the same time.
+
+[29:19] It's hard because they can't see each other. You know what I mean? I'm not answering that, Jack. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[29:23] She's not answering that because she didn't even hear the question. No, no, no. People, people, she didn't even have her headphones on. No, no. Like that's how important her text session was.
+
+[29:31] That she didn't even have her headphones on. Alright, let's uh Yeah. I had a quick, like fun little summer question for you. All right. Roasting marshmallows.
+
+[29:40] Yes. What's your technique? I use a Searzel. Come on, though. But I mean, yeah, come on.
+
+[29:47] Yes. No campfire technique. Uh well, look, here's my feeling on marshmallows. There are there are a couple schools of thought. I can think of three.
+
+[29:56] There's the I don't give a crap school of thought, right? In which case they just do it. And then there's on the either end, there's the lightly toasted, puffed, golden brown marshmallow lovers, right? And then there's the burnt crust, gooey inside like charcoal kind of lovers. Which one are you?
+
+[30:14] Uh I I I don't know. I'd say probably the first. Yeah. But you know, it's nice to kind of give it a quick zap in there and then you just kind of peel off that burned layer. Yeah.
+
+[30:22] And then you can kind of go again. You know? Yeah, that's true. That's true. Stasza, do you do you are you are you one of those freaks that doesn't like toasted marshmallows?
+
+[30:29] I do. Okay. What do you which which kind do you like? We just did it on a campfire last week. That's not what I'm asking.
+
+[30:35] I said between the two things that you weren't listening to that I was talking about, which one do you prefer? Um I don't know. Do you prefer it lightly toasted or do you prefer a char? Both. I think it's a lot of things.
+
+[30:47] Do you see people? People, do you see? Do you see what I'm dealing with? There's no wrong. There's no wrong.
+
+[30:52] It's a chit choice. So the uh I think it's d the difficulty with the lightly toasted one is that um a lot of times when you're doing it that way, you don't get like a gooey enough inside. Now, some people might want the inside to be totally raw to have that kind of chew to it, but I think that often when people do that, they're gonna under they're gonna under do the inside. So to do that one really right, it takes more patience than most of us can muster because you have to hold it fairly high above the flame. You have to rotate it constantly and make sure that you don't have any one section too, you know, too burnt.
+
+[31:25] Um, and just who has that kind of patience, especially if you're using a four edge stick that's a pain to turn around, you know what I mean? I was cheating. I kind of I put a stick in the ground uh over the weekend and just kind of kept it sort of close to the fire and kept it there for like 15 minutes, so it really slowly cooked. And how was it? It was great.
+
+[31:42] See, that's the thing. I think that's probably a good that's a good technique. It just who has that kind of you know, that's that's more patience than I can move. If I want a s'more or a toasted marshmallow, I want that sucker like now. Enter the search all.
+
+[31:53] Enter the Searzol. Although you still have to be careful with the Searsol because uh although it does it quickly and it's more even, you can still, you know, uh very quickly set the outside of a marshmallow on fire. Because you know, the thing with the marshmallow is it's dry. There's not a lot uh a lot of water there. So once it starts going brown, it can then go black and then ignite fairly quickly.
+
+[32:10] So you have to, you know, you have to be you have to, you know, be gentle with it. So it's like it's either either you risk the burn or you take your time. Those those are the two choices. I like them charcoaled, to be honest. Although I like a toasted one every now and again, but I don't know, I love that outside kind of charcoal overcooked action too.
+
+[32:30] You know what I mean? Yeah. Yeah. Uh all right. So John Riper's other question, which I'll get before I get to the other question.
+
+[32:36] By the way, uh, should you have any questions in the next couple of minutes? Call them 2718497-2128. That's 7184972128. Oh, yeah, Jack, your question. I think it's tough with two people on the phone because they can't see when the other one's gonna talk.
+
+[32:48] Exactly. You know what I'm saying? Yep. Yeah. Okay.
+
+[32:51] Uh Jack's set uh John's uh separate uh second question. What are your thoughts on equipment to create a cheese aging environment at home? Wine cooling units seem to have good temperature control, but they don't cu control humidity or aim for a uh lower relative humidity than or they aim for a lower relative humidity than cheeses need. Is DIY the only way to go, or is there a V ISA meaning spending money from your credit card? Alternative, John Riper in Seattle.
+
+[33:15] Well, okay. Uh actually, you know what I've gotten a lot of questions on recently is this uh I have Jesus, I can't remember the name. It's called the steak locker. Have you been getting questions about this recently? Have you been seeing Mark been asking you about this?
+
+[33:25] It's like a Kickstarter thing, it's available right now where it's um it's kind of like a wine cooler, but it's it's tweaked out for uh dry aging stakes, so it's got humidity and temperature control for dry aging stakes, and like you know, a light bulb so you can see what's on, you can put a salt slab in there if that's your jammy. Uh anyways. So uh that's got temperature and humidity control. However, it uh it's gonna be putting it at a lower relative humidity than you want. So that's probably not gonna work for you.
+
+[33:52] Here's what you're gonna want to do. You're gonna want to go uh the only one I could that I know of offhand, and I've never used it, so I don't um I don't really know how awesome it is, but the only kind of semi-off the shelf, so that it's not a hundred percent DIY, but it's not a hundred percent, you know, like plug and play. Uh Aubur Instruments, who uh you know is a leader in incredibly cheap uh temperature control stuff, uh has the TH210 temperature and humidity controller for curing fridge uh and high relative humidity, right? So that's the key that it can do high relative humidity. And that's a hundred and ninety a hundred and nineteen bucks from uh Albur Instruments, and you just set your fridge on coldest, plug the fridge into the temperature plug on this thing, and then uh whatever you're gonna use to control the humidity.
+
+[34:35] So, I mean, I wouldn't necessarily recommend like a pan with a small heater to increase the humidity in the in the fridge, but you or you could get a small humidifier that sits in the fridge, uh, presuming that the fridge maintains a relative lower relative humidity than you need, and then you just plug those two things in, set it, and you can walk away and it should work. So you buy a fridge or you know, a working fridge, one of these units for 119 bucks, and some form of uh humidifier that you like and plug it in and go. Yeah? Yeah, all right. Um now we had a question in that uh we missed before.
+
+[35:09] Tom Fisher writes, where's he where does he live anyway? Do you know? Do you remember? Shoot, I don't remember where he lives. See if we can find it.
+
+[35:15] Dear Dave and Nastasha and Jack. I have a logistics problem. I've fallen in love with hot lobster rolls. Hot lobster roll sounds uh like vaguely kind of uh vaguely kind of dirty, right? Hot lobster roll.
+
+[35:26] Doesn't it sound like some sort of like I don't know, I don't know. I mean, I like them. I like they're delicious, but something sounds like hot hot and roll, it's hot and roll together, I think, right? Anyway, uh, and I'd like to make them at home. The problem is the lobster meat.
+
+[35:39] It seems it seems way too expensive in both time and dollars to buy live lobster just to steam them to get the meat. Frozen lobster meat would work, but the affordable sources only have it in two-pound packages. I need single serving sizes of four to eight ounces, and I don't want to resort to canned lobster. Any ideas? Uh okay.
+
+[35:58] Well, I mean, look, uh, in a lobster roll, it probably doesn't make uh much difference. The only frozen lobster experience I've ever had was with uh Whole Foods. Uh one day I had to do a low temperature uh demonstration, and I went to Whole Foods to buy lobster, not knowing that they somehow think that it's inhumane for you to kill a lobster at home, but it is humane to have some dude in a factory in Canada kill the crap out of the lobster and then freeze it for you. Does that make any damn sense to you, Stas? Makes no damn sense, right?
+
+[36:28] What are Canadians inherently less cruel as people towards lobsters than Americans? I don't know. Jack, do you have any thoughts on the relative cruelty of Canadian lobster killers and Americans? I think it's even. Even Steven, right?
+
+[36:38] Yeah. Yeah. And I would bet that in a commercial environment, like I don't know, I bet it's even rougher. At home, you know, people are like, oh, sorry, buddy, you know, and they throw it into the pot. You know what I'm saying?
+
+[36:49] It is true that commercially uh they use uh high pressure when they're doing uh steam, so it probably maybe kills them a little bit faster. I don't know. But I've already done plenty of work on lobster killing, so I'm not gonna talk about it now. I'm not gonna I'm not gonna get into it because I don't have time. But uh here's what I would say.
+
+[36:59] If if you can buy a two-pound block of lobster meat that you like. By the way, also, if you train yourself in ripping a lobster apart, there's almost no time in breaking a lobster down. Like, I I remember I was uh uh Bobby Flay opened this place called Bar American. I don't know if it's still open, like a million years ago, right? I went to the opening party and they had this giant lobster out there, and it was crowded, so crowded.
+
+[37:26] And uh, you know, for anyone that's grown up on the Cape or grown up around the Cape or on the East Coast and like eating a lot of lobster, I mean, we know how to break lobsters down fast. You know what I'm saying? Now it's true. If you want to get 100% yield out of a lobster, you gotta rip it open, like break open the bodies, get this, get the meat out, but in a small lobster, that's not such a big thing anyway. And getting the meat out of the claws is a little bit of a little bit of a hassle sometimes.
+
+[37:46] But the guy goes, I say, uh, you know, they didn't have enough horse dervis because they had more people than they thought, right? So they had that, you know how like when they're opening a restaurant, they have like the raw bar out that no one's really eating off of, it's just there for display. You know what I'm talking about, Stas? You've seen that a million times, right? So they had this like big old lobster, like a three-pounder or something there, or you know, a two and a half, three-pounder something, you know, medium size for for you know, for people who get really big lobsters, but big for you know being served on a plate.
+
+[38:11] And I say to the guy, uh, you know, one of the, I was like, hey, uh, can I eat that? He goes, if you can get the meat out. I was like, I literally, as soon as he said, if you can get the meat out, within within maybe 10 seconds, I had the tail meat completely out of the lobster and I was eating it. And the guy had that, what the look on his face, because anyone that's grown up eating lobster knows how to get the tail out of a lobster with no equipment and like almost instantly, you know? You know how to do it, right, size, you know how to break a lobster.
+
+[38:40] I mean you go to Rhode Island enough. Anyways. My point being that uh you can get the the majority of the lobster meat out in well under a minute. Now it's then it it's it's minutes and minutes if you want to get the rest. The advantage then is if you want to make like a like uh if you want to use the bodies and the insides to make some sort of a soup or stock, you can and then freeze that out.
+
+[39:01] But if you don't want, if you want to buy the frozen meat, fine. Let's talk about the frozen meat. Which I can't vouch for the texture of it, but in a lobster roll, it'll probably be okay. The texture of this stuff I got at Whole Foods, maybe if I had uh done a high temp traditional cook, it would have been okay, but low temp, it just fell apart on me. I couldn't get it to work right.
+
+[39:16] Anywho, uh, I would go and purchase a uh a meat or a brand either a brand new stainless steel hacksaw or a uh meat uh uh you know saw and uh have it around anyway. It's gonna be useful for hams and whatnot. And then you can just saw the uh get really cold, get everything really cold, and saw the two-pound block of meat into portions, and then uh either uh ziplock and get rid of the air, or better yet, vacuum pack the individual portions in the fridge, and then when it comes time to to cook them, just throw the individual servings of meat into uh into you know water inside the bag, they'll thaw out fairly quickly, and then you can uh cook as uh desired uh and make into a lobster roll. What do you think? Sounds good.
+
+[40:01] Yeah, yeah. Stas is like, sounds good. I eat, don't care. I eat don't care. Uh okay.
+
+[40:06] Now, we got some more questions. Um I had it takes me longer to get in my iPad now that I had to change the password because my kids figured it out. Don't you hate that? You don't hate that, you don't know you don't know what I'm talking about. But like the kids, they they break into your into your iPad all the time and play stupid games that rot their mind, etc.
+
+[40:21] etc. Anyway. Um, um okay. Wyatt Burns from Brooklyn, New York. Brooklyn, writes in, hey, a Jack, Dave, and Nastasha.
+
+[40:29] I currently make seltzer in my apartment with the liter soda bottle technique. So that's using a liter soda bottle, a 25 or 10 pound CO2 tank, and a carbonator cap. We go through it pretty quickly in the summer, so I'd like to upgrade to a carbonator system. I listened to the episode where you explain your home system, and I would like to implement something similar, but I have a few questions. Okay.
+
+[40:50] So we're talking about uh people's is instead of having a system where you have to constantly make seltzer like a chump, so that would be either the bottle system or soda stream or similar, right? Which is like well, well above the super chump, which is going to the store and buying seltzer, which is if you live in New York City and you have our awesome tap water, you know, and you buy case after case of seltzer, you're pretty much a chump. Am I right? Chump. Yeah, okay, okay.
+
+[41:17] Um you said you have a McCann carbonator, but which model would be appropriate for our light non-industrial use? Would the big bat big Mac be fine or overkill? Also, how loud are these things and do they run constantly or only when seltzer is being dispensed? Okay, so so when you're when you're buy buying a uh a professional carbonator, people, uh what what you have is you have a little rotary vane uh pump. It's the same pump that similar pump, same company, uh Procon, that's used in uh commercial espresso machines, right?
+
+[41:48] And uh they what because what happens is is the carbonator is a tank, it's fundamentally a tank. Uh and the tank is hooked up to high pressure CO2. Now remember, you're carbonating water in a carbonator at like a hundred psi. And the reason is is that you're doing it at root with room temperature water, and so you need a much higher pressure than you would use if you were going to carbonate in a bottle, let's say, right? Okay.
+
+[42:10] So uh so here you have you have a high pressure tank, and your water, even if you have a very high pressure water system, uh, which some people in the city do, depending on kind of how high their building is and where they are in the building, you're still not going to really top out much higher than like 60 psi. So what you need is you need a motor that can uh pump rather that can force under pressure the water through and into that tank, and it sprays the water into the CO2 tank so that it carbonates instantly. Then you have a hose that comes off uh and you dispense. You need a good dispenser for it, really good dispenser. That people always chinse on the dispenser, and that's where they ruin their seltzer of the chumps.
+
+[42:46] There's also a very there's a special way to uh to hook up a carbonator for the first time to get it to work. And if you know if anyone buys one and they want me to come on and tell them how to hook it up, I'll I'll tell them how to hook it up on the air. It's not difficult, but it'll take a couple minutes, longer than I have right now. Okay. So the the choices you had, the motors are all the same, and you already have the tank.
+
+[43:05] So the difference in carbonators is the size of the reservoir that the seltzer is in. And I would get the big Mac because it's gonna turn on less. Uh and you know that that's what I use. I used to have a smaller one and it just turned on a lot more often. So I would just get the big Mac because if you're gonna have a dinner party and someone's gonna pull a picture of seltzer out of it, then you're gonna wish you had the Big Mac.
+
+[43:23] Just saying, go for the Big Mac. Okay. Um, how loud are they and do they run constantly? They don't run constantly. They what they there's a little uh a float, like in a toilet, but not with toilet water.
+
+[43:35] There's a float that uh judges when the water is below a certain level, uh, and when that happens, it kicks on, it fills it uh up, you know, to its final fill level and then turns off. So I'd say that you know it cycles on every gallon or so of seltzer that you pull. Like every like something like three quarters or a gallon, somewhere in that in that range. Uh and how loud are they? How loud they are depends entirely on the rate of water flow into the carbonator.
+
+[43:59] So you need to filter the water that goes into the carbonator. Even New York City tap water, which is famously you know uh clean tasting and good a lot of times some there there can be chlorine in if they if they have an upstream problem with uh something they'll dose chlorine into the water and that makes seltzer taste like poison so you gotta get rid of that. Also your pipes uh sometimes like throw sediment and other things into the water that can affect because even minor taste defects in in in tap water uh get incredibly magnified by um by uh cells the seltzer making process so you need a filter the problem is is that most filters when you when people when they hook them up they hook them up with a really crappy water supply line such that they use some sort of three eighths flex cable into the filter instead of like a half inch uh you know full water sub copper water supply line and what happens there is is that when the seltzer is trying to pump in it chokes up and when it chokes up you get a very small flow of water through your filter. So you actually want the coarsest filter you can that has the you know the the uh that that provides the the taste that you want. So you don't want like a super heavy duty like remove cyst removes lead.
+
+[45:12] You just want an odor and taste and chlorine removing filter. Alright so it chokes up and once it chokes up it starts cavitating. When it cavitates it gets really really really loud and then when it comes you'll know when it's time to change your filter because all of a sudden your carbonator will get really really loud. When you have a fresh filter it's fairly quiet if you keep it under the counter and keep the door closed in the cabinet that it's in. Um another caveat when you install a new system, there's flux and crap in the uh in the uh in your copper lines uh from the soldering and just residue and stuff, you want to put that stuff through a filter.
+
+[45:47] You don't want that getting into your carbonator because then the c water is gonna taste like poison for a while. And also your first filter is gonna clog within like a week or less. And don't worry about it. Just the second filter you have in there is gonna last uh a lot lot longer. So, anyway, there you go.
+
+[46:01] Uh two, I don't have an ice maker and really don't want to use the traditional ice chest for the cold plate. Shit, you're telling me, man. I did that for 10 years. I had a uh an ice bucket with my cold plate in it and I had to fill it every day with ice, but you know, it's a hassle. It's it's a hassle.
+
+[46:13] But I did it for 10 years. Are there any other techniques for chilling a water line that don't require ice? I'm considering modding a cheap mini freezer to directly chill a water bath that the cold plate is submerged in, but maybe I'm overthinking this. That won't work so well. Um you need ice because what's happening is is it's the actual melting of the ice that is um it's the melting of the ice that is providing the quick hit to make it cold.
+
+[46:35] And so you really need uh melting ice. You could theoretically um you know use only carbonate cold water and keep the carbonator in in a in a mini fridge and the water in a mini fridge, and then as long as your draw wasn't too low, you could do it, but it's kind of a pain. I'd really I would recommend if you have the money. I can I currently have an under-counter manitawok ice machine that is freaking amazing. The cold plate fits right in the bottom of the ice maker, and now I have fresh ice for drinks for cocktails or whatever else, and it just it it automatically drains.
+
+[47:10] That that mini minute wok under counter ice machine is I have the the boardroom model that's really home friendly. I would look at it. Um otherwise I'll have to think more. If none of these work, you have to ask me again, I'll think more. And also, in your rig, do you run the cold plate before or after the carbonator?
+
+[47:23] I imagine I could get away with lower CO2 pressure if the water line is already cold going into the carbonator, correct? Not really, because you're it's not it's not a system where it carbonates the water now, but you're not drinking that water for a long time. So if you were to if you were to keep the carbonator in the fridge, then yeah, you could have a cold plate and you could uh and you could use a lower pressure and push it through the cold plate first to chill it down, carbonate it and put it in. But 99%, if you mean most people can't store the carbonator in the fridge because it's rather large. So what they do is is they carbonate room temperature water, which is why you need it to be a hundred PSI, and then uh they chill it through the cold plate and then dispense.
+
+[47:59] But anyway, if you have any more questions, uh Wyatt, uh give uh you know, shout them back to me. And he says, love the show, and shouts to gunwash, Jack. Shouts to gunwash. Wow, it's a first time on this show. Yeah?
+
+[48:09] Yeah. Yeah. All right. I got one more question that I have to uh get to today. Do I have a couple minutes, uh, Jack?
+
+[48:15] Or no? A couple minutes? Sorry, not really. Oh my god, Jesper in Sweden, there's an auction that's gonna end today. Like three minutes?
+
+[48:21] Okay, go. Okay. I previously bought an old Bukey rotary evaporator, so I'm not gonna have time to explain to everyone what a rotor evaporator is, it's vacuum still. Uh on an auction, included was the base system uh and the condenser and all this and the boiling flask and receiving flask and all that. Look up rotary evaporator on the cooking issues you want to know.
+
+[48:36] Where I live, i.e. in Sweden, it's not that common to be able to get a cheap to be able to get cheap laboratory equipment on auctions, at least not what I've experienced. Moreover, Bukey is a pretty expensive brand, and in it's Swiss, that's why. And in hindsight, maybe I should have opted for a new complete IK uh IKA ICA uh system instead. Don't.
+
+[48:54] They suck. Remember when we had to use that system and it sucked, it sucked, it sucked, it leaked. I hated it. Remember that? And a leaky rotovap is bad flavor right there.
+
+[49:02] Anyway, however, now I have the R210 base, and my questions are related to kitting the system to have it operational. At the same time, one of those rare lab auctions are now taking place in my neighborhood, which closed its door in a week on Wednesday, June 25th, Jack, which is why I had to get to it. So it would be great if you could answer my question before that. My first choice is regards to vacuum pumps. Well, would uh would like to have a diaphragm one together with a vacuum controller, but the auctions do not have those.
+
+[49:23] Instead, they have a couple of rotary vein pumps. Now, all the ones that you mentioned are Edwards brand. Edwards are extremely, extremely high quality vacuum pumps. However, they are way overkill for the rotary evaporator application that you need. If you can get them cheaply, get them, they're awesome, but it's again way overkill.
+
+[49:39] Are any of the uh especially the like the E1 M18 and 28 because they handle vapor very well and they have a ballast in them? So then your question is, are any of those rotary vein pumps a good choice in regards to your opinion? My main concerns is the vapor and contamination. Should I uh buy a rotary vane pump and add some kind of inlet condenser or coal trap? You can, but that's a hassle.
+
+[49:56] It's a real hassle. It'll be easier for you to find a diaphragm pump that's gonna do what you want. Uh I use just a re regular refrigerator pump, which is a couple hundred dollars, a refrigerator vacuum pump, but it's not ideal either. Do I need something extra apart from the gas ballast valve uh open? No, not really.
+
+[50:09] And you're gonna have to close the gas valve valve if you're doing really super low temperature stuff. Another important topic related to the vacuum pump is how important is the vacuum controller? They're pretty expensive and they do not uh have them at the auction. If you're not using a vacuum controller, how do you control the vacuum? You put a bleeder valve on the line so that you can control like a very like a like a like a multi-turn needle valve to bleed air out on a T in the in the in line with the vacuum line.
+
+[50:29] That's how you do it, but it's a hassle because you have to control it. You have to sit there and constantly control it, and it's constantly pumping, which is also not ideal because you're because you're constantly pumping, you're sucking uh flavor out of your system. So I don't I mean, I've done it, that's how I used to do it, but I don't highly rec highly recommend it. You also uh mentioned a recirculating cooler that you use for your chiller. Uh, here's the thing.
+
+[50:49] Uh that'll work, but if I looked at the specs on it and at minus 10 C, which is what you're gonna want to run at least, it only does 120 watts of cooling. The main mistake people make with condensers is they do not have enough power to condense all the stuff that they uh can put that they can uh boil because the the heater is at like a thousand watts, and your condenser now is only providing 120 watts of cooling. What that means is your condenser is going to warm up significantly until it gets up to about 20 C. Um I can give you more input on that next week uh because those auctions are over. That's my feedback on the auction uh items that you have.
+
+[51:21] In other words, if you can get that pump cheap, I would get one of those pumps cheap, but it's not the same thing. And I can also work more on a vacuum controller. But the circulator, it's convenient to have around, but don't expect it to do high volumes. You're only doing 120 watts at minus 10 C. So don't expect to do high volumes of rotary evaporator work around it.
+
+[51:38] And Jesper, I'll get to the rest of your questions next week after the auction is over. This has been Cooking Issues.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritage radio network.org.
+
+[52:12] Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by the International Culinary Center. Offering courses that range from classic French techniques in culinary pastry and bread baking to Italian studies to management. From culinary technology to food writing, from cake making to wine tasting. For more information, visit International Culinary Center dot com. I'm Damon Bolti, host of the Speakeasy.
+
+[0:20] You're listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit heritageradionetwork.org for thousands more. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming together from Roberta's Pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn on the Heritage Radio Network every Tuesday from roughly 12 to roughly 1245. Joined as usual with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez, Jack in the booth, but today, special guest, Mark Ladner from Del Posto Restaurant in the studio today.
+
+[0:58] How are you doing, Mark? Pretty well, Dave. Listen, he's here actually to push his Kickstarter. However, since we have him trapped here, call in all of your Mark Ladner related questions to 718 497-2128. That's 718-497-2128.
+
+[1:10] That's the last of my energy. I biked here today, gentle peoples. And let me tell you something. It is hot as hell out there right now. Although, Nastasha, I broke my usual rule of uh not biking the wrong way down the street, just to avoid that one street with the cement.
+
+[1:24] What always happens when I bike here is I bike down, I forget the name of it. It's like Johnson or White or something like that. There's a giant cement factory on it, and I inhale cement dust on the way here every day. I come, and that's why I'm like, I'm in the first section. That's why I could do the intro, because I went the wrong way down the street.
+
+[1:42] Uh hey Mark, how you doing? I'm doing well, dude. So uh before we get into the uh general cooking issues related uh questions, uh why don't you uh tell us a little bit about your Kickstarter? Well, um, yeah, so we have I think uh this is three days left on our Kickstarter campaign. We're trying to raise some money to do a uh pop-up for a quick service gluten-free pasta bowl concept, and we're hoping to visit some uh northeastern college campuses in the fall, uh hopefully most of the month of October.
+
+[2:18] And we're looking for some donations to get this truck so we can uh make some visits and get some people excited about gluten-free pasta. Okay, a couple of things. Let's just break this down a couple of things at a time, okay. Let's forget the gluten-free for one minute. Yes, dude.
+
+[2:31] Pasta bowl, right? Now explain the idea, the the genesis of the idea and why it's a necessary uh thing to have Italian style pasta done for lack of a better word, ramen style. In our speed, ramen speed, not style taste-wise, ramen speed. Well, um in my uh extensive uh experience traveling um the US and a lot of Italy, I've never really found a precedent for quick service Italian style pasta, and I found that to be uh frustrating and disappointing. Um when, for example, you and I, Dave, went to Tokyo, and uh the hammer as well.
+
+[3:11] The hammer was there too. Um we we had a lot of examples of really great fast food that was ramen that was a nourishing meal as well as a quick uh snack, and there's no precedent for that in America. Um obviously you've seen there has been quite a bit of uh momentum in the ramen um space as of late. Sure. Um with m Momofuku, for example.
+
+[3:38] Um but there is no sort of precedent for for pasta done that way, and I don't really understand why. Now is it is more of a mental problem or a technical problem or both? No, it's mental. It's purely mental. I don't think there's any technical problems at all.
+
+[3:51] Because you're dealing with uh fresh fresh pasta. It's gonna be fresh style pastas, not dried style pastas, right? Are you gonna parcook? It's dried pasta. Straight dried?
+
+[3:59] It's made from fresh but it's dry. So but semi so in other words has to cook quickly though, right? Or are you gonna cooks quickly. Like how many so it's not like fully dry. It's not fully dried then.
+
+[4:07] Or is it like air dried but it's porous so it picks up the water really quickly not to give away too much. Cooked and then dried. Okay, so it rehydrates like super fast. Yeah. And uh explain to us the gluten free.
+
+[4:19] Um well this uh the gluten free aspect uh started for two reasons. One because we s found obviously um dealing with dietary restriction and preference in the restaurant that it was becoming an increasing trend. Uh we're currently at probably around thirty percent of our guests prefer gluten-free, the gluten-free lifestyle today, whether it will remain that way is obviously in question. But um we realized with so many people uh demanding gluten-free uh pasta that we would need to have two inventories a gluten and a non-glu gluten. If you're mixing the two then you can't have a certified non-gluten so you're not really doing much of a service to the gluten free people.
+
+[5:00] Plus you need different boiling water. Right exactly and and some say different machines depending upon whether you want to be certified or not. So we decided to focus all our energy on just making the absolute best gluten free pasta, which I feel is as good as regular gluten pasta at this point. Well, I know you're a big side-by-side tasting uh fellow, as am I, and you've done many side by sides at at your restaurant Del Post and what and what are the results uh been? Um It's hard to say.
+
+[5:27] I mean, it's non-gluten, so um it has a lot to do with the saucing, you know. Um if you have a delicious, flavorful sauce, it's harder to uh taste the difference. Um so I'm going primarily for texture. And you feel you get the cup of it. I feel that I've been able to um uh simulate an al dente texture, which is very unusual in gluten-free pasta because there's no gluten.
+
+[5:49] And currently you're you're using the uh the cup for cup. I'm currently using cup for cup. I like it a lot. But in volume, it's not it's it's it's it's affordable in volume. Considering what you considering the amount that goes per serving, you're saying it's reasonable.
+
+[6:03] Absolutely. Now, uh by the way, for those of you that don't see here's the thing that maybe people don't know. Maybe they've never been to Del Posto, maybe they don't realize kind of what uh like a bonker's lunatic you are for pasta texture. Yes. But uh, you know, uh I mean, unlike Nastasha who will eat like uh pasta freaking sludge soup, if it's handed to her uh cooked by students, she still will eat like a a paste, a a pureed, a uh a rebolito of pasta, uh you might say, uh that's just her style.
+
+[6:34] I don't know. But like Mark. That's not entirely true. No, she prefers it done. She prefers it done properly.
+
+[6:41] She will eat slop. Slop pasta. If you were to cook pasta to the point that I was gonna dehydrate it and puff it, she would still eat it as a cooked pasta if I threw some crappy marnara on it. That's just gross. It's wrong.
+
+[6:54] It's just wrong. But I love it about her because it shows that she has some inherent like weird crap that you couldn't predict because she does appreciate like nicely cooked pasta. You on the other hand, Mark, detest poorly cooked pasta. I do detest poorly cooked pasta. So one thing I can guarantee, uh, if you were to stop by uh this uh this this quick serve pasta concept is that you will uh appreciate the texture that Mark is able to get.
+
+[7:14] Now here's another thing. Who's this who's this non a chick? Who's that? I'm kidding. You say it's non a style, right?
+
+[7:25] What does that mean? Oh no no no no, no, no, no, no. It's our matriarchal uh avatar. Yeah, if you will. And so apparently she knows how to make the the pot do you like her style of pizza that they now sell in New York or not?
+
+[7:38] And and whose grandmother makes that kind of pizza anyways. I I don't know. One other thing I just wanted to say really quickly, Dave, is that um it's important to mention that I would probably consider myself to be a better pasta cooker than a pasta maker, and I think a lot of people underestimate the importance of the cooking aspect of pasta. Yeah. That's how that texture is achieved.
+
+[8:00] Are you uh are you a believer in the uh undercook even more and then hot sauce, put it together, let it soak? Yes. Isn't everyone who knows who Yeah, but I don't use the water, I don't believe in that technique. No, you use the you make the sauce a little thinner, right? Or what?
+
+[8:14] Yeah, I make the sauce center, but I I don't use the pasta water because I oversalt my water. So I just use tap water. Yeah, what's up, oversalt? That's right. Well, because you can't you can't once you reduce salty water, it becomes an edible.
+
+[8:25] So and then if you're combining it with other really salty things like rendered cured pork product or uh sheep's milk cheeses that are aged and things like that, it becomes compounded to the point where you can't I've never uh eat it. You know the uh the commercial uh pasta cookers that are like redone fryers with this dark skimmer on the top? You use those things? Yes. How do you keep the salt level constant that you have to keep tasting it?
+
+[8:47] And that's it's really not a big deal, but yes, you have to keep tasting it. Yeah. Alright. I've never I've never really used one. They suck.
+
+[8:52] Really? Yeah. Is there a better system out there? There is not. Yeah, it's really it's it's uh it's really frustrating.
+
+[8:59] They've been uh decreasing the quality of steel uh a little bit every year over the past fifteen years to the point where if you get one to last three months, it's a miracle. Really? It's that bad. Does it go at the weld joints or where does it go? Or does it just start throwing rust into the water or what?
+
+[9:15] Um yeah, it's the joints. They're they they blow out. Or or it's just it's just really cheap fabricated steel, and also um they'll actually tell you that uh they prefer that you don't use salt. That's a good one, right? Why not just say that why not just say that you prefer that you not cook pasta in the pasta cooker?
+
+[9:33] That would be easier. You know what I think it is? A lot of times, any time there is um one of the problems with stainless steel, 304 and 316, which I think they mainly make these things out of 304 and 316, is that if there's any non-stainless uh stuff in it, it will migrate and shaft the stainless. So if they use any non-stainless stuff in it at all, this is like if you look up it for people if you care about this stuff, like look up the dangers of using non-stainless screws in stainless fabrication when it's exposed to corrosive environments. And there is no other environment as corrosive as well, there are, but I mean no cooking environment as corrosive as hot salted water.
+
+[10:12] Yeah, exactly. You know, so I don't know whether it's maybe like even just cooks using non stainless, but like you know how those fake stainless racks, when you throw them in an immersion circulator, they rust out in like a day. Yep. Yeah, we've had you know five thousand dollar machines that have pitted out and in in three days. I wonder whether it's the rack inserts they're shafting it.
+
+[10:31] Like whether it's just poor quality. I mean, there's something in there is shafting it. Like if they use the real stuff, it should last longer than that. In the past it has. They've just they've just chose to use cheaper and cheaper steel.
+
+[10:43] Right. Yeah, but I wonder whether it's the I wonder if they cheaped out on one particular thing, it's ruining everything. Like maybe they're maybe they're saving, because I'm having this problem manufacturing uh in China now. Maybe it's maybe they're saving a nickel and costing you five grand. Yeah.
+
+[10:55] You know what I mean? No, no, no. It seems like it could be true. It's like for five thousand bucks, I'll give you this pasta cooker's gonna last for a month and a half. For five thousand and two dollars, it'll last for three years.
+
+[11:05] You know what I'm saying? So one last thing, one last thing before we just start that uh dealing with regular questions. Uh so like let's say I was to go on the website and and and donate some money. Yes. Yes.
+
+[11:16] Well, you could get everything from we've been working, Dave, on an instant pasta bowl, because this pasta that we've created can actually be cooked in one minute. So um, as I know you are a huge fan of microwave cooking, I also am a proponent of uh of the magic of the microwave. Yeah, people just haven't thought enough about it. Um so this this pasta's actually cooked in a microwave. You mean the like you mean the one that you're gonna the instant one?
+
+[11:43] Both. And you're gonna and so if I pay are you gonna send me some of this stuff? Is that how okay? So then listen here. Are you it's only for ten bucks, Dave?
+
+[11:50] That's a freaking bargain. You should charge uh uh more or like let people buy. Here's the problem with Kickstarters. Can someone go buy a case of this crap and give you a hundred bucks instead? Absolutely not.
+
+[11:59] Freaking Kickstarter. Uh you know that. I know Dave, how many kicks are campaigns? Ah, hey, hey, yo, well, my point is is that like why don't they let you consider like a 10 box of this stuff like a different skew from like or uh hey, hey, if it was a different flavor, you could do it. We're also selling uh kilo bag.
+
+[12:20] Sweet. Of the instant stuff? On the on the on the now, I'm not saying, but you know what I've always wanted to own? I've always wanted to own one of those things that can seal the top of a bowl or a cup with a little thing. Yeah.
+
+[12:29] Do you have that? Are you gonna get the or are you gonna bottom it? I don't know where to get one. I'm I I mean I've I've gone to the packaging fairs. I don't know how much they cost, but wouldn't that be sick if you had the little you could literally make the my kids love hearty chicken?
+
+[12:41] They don't like the the actual Asian versions, but the the really crappy hardy chicken noodle one, because it doesn't have any vegetables, that's why. They love that that fake that fake soup stuff there. It's good stuff. They have new ones that are like perforated secondary skin lids so you can like drain out the the cooking water, which is pretty cool. Sauce, is that your favorite new word?
+
+[13:00] Skin lid? She's got the look, she's got the lip. I think. I will go cook at your house for a phenomenal fee. How much does that cost?
+
+[13:11] How much stuff? Five grand, I think. Five grand. And and how many people will you cook for? Twelve.
+
+[13:15] Twelve? Ten or twelve. Oh do the math. What is that? It's a lot.
+
+[13:19] No, I mean it's not that much. How much is that? Well, it would be five hundred dollars. Let me put it in. It's roughly the cost of going to Del Posto.
+
+[13:28] We bring all the food and some nice bottles of Chianti. It's it's look it's roughly the cost uh for you to go out to have a dinner at Del Posto, and instead, Mark Latin will come to your house, which is sure to impress your buddies. Yeah. It would impress my buddies. And we could we could we could enjoy some gluten free pasta or some gluten pasta.
+
+[13:47] Yeah, we can cook that too. Are you gonna make any will you make any of your like famous like billion layer lasagna code? Sure, why not? Love that stuff. Is the billion layer lasagna working?
+
+[13:55] Is it working in no uh in a no gluten form very well? It does very well. Yeah. Yeah, absolutely. It's good on a stick too, Dave, which I figured you'd appreciate.
+
+[14:03] You could probably eat it on your bike. Well, geez, if you're gonna put it on a stick, do you s di well you chill it, skewer it? Exactly. And then uh, but then the question is, can you make it such that you I mean, will it stick together enough once it's re-turned? No.
+
+[14:15] So we gotta coat it with something and then fry it. We prefer to serve it cold with hot sauce. Mmm, cold with hot sauce. That sounds like some sort of like a revenge-based like metaphor. Stas will figure that out, I'm sure.
+
+[14:30] In the Queen of Revenge. Alright, okay, so let's look at some questions. You've got a live caller. Oh, live caller. Live caller, you're on the air.
+
+[14:40] Hello, hello, Dave. I uh I have a question for you. I recently bought some uh carbon steel pans. Okay. Uh and I I seasoned them what I thought was properly at the time, but I think I used a little bit too much oil.
+
+[14:53] I was wondering if you knew a good way to kind of set them back to factory without, and I prefer not to use anything like uh electrolysis. Okay. So uh the way to tell if you have too much oil when you're seasoning it, is you'll have A, you'll have drip marks on the inside, like little bumps, and you'll have kind of a stickiness in the uh in the bottom of the pan, right, Mark? Yes. Is that is that is that what you're noticing?
+
+[15:16] Yeah. How hot does your oven get? Do you have a self-clean? Do you have a self-clean cycle in your oven? Uh I uh I'm using pans in a professional setting, so.
+
+[15:28] Oh. I mean, if you have someone with access to a self-cleaning oven, just remove any any any plastic handles and throw the pans in on self-clean, and it'll incinerate all of the stuff that's on it, and then you're starting from scratch. Um the the I mean you can do it, you can do it on your s on like a commercial range top. The problem is, is it's really gonna smoke out the kitchen, and you have uh uh a real you're like unless you're really careful with it, you're gonna warp the bottom of your pan. Uh neither of which is things you want.
+
+[16:02] You want you much prefer the even heat of an oven, but a standard commercial oven in runaway is only going to get up to about 550, and you need to get you need to get over six and six, I would say six fifty-six and change to burn that stuff off. If you have access to like a wood fired oven, you can do that, or if you have access to like a real pizza, you know, oven, you that'll probably get hot enough to burn the sucker off. Um what do you think, Mark? Oh, I do have access to a wood fire oven. Oh, yeah, cool.
+
+[16:29] Then fire the hell out of it. Like fire the ever loving hell out of it. Then brush the stuff to the sides, throw the pan in, and uh just you know, stand back, let the smoke, it'll it'll smoke off. Uh it might take it a while. You you can tell because it'll look like steel again.
+
+[16:43] It'll never look fresh. It's gonna look kind of black, but it won't have the coating on it, and then just I would like I would like just give it a scotch bright-y and then uh and then re-season, but you know, obviously be careful about not dripping too much oil in it next time. You know what I usually do? I usually put the oil uh I put a little in the bottom, I run it around, and then I quickly just take a uh uh like a pa the problem with paper towels, I use them, but is they can throw lint into it and leave little linty jobbies in the thing, so you have to be kind of careful. They make specific kind of like brushes and things like this.
+
+[17:15] If you get like the crepe making people have like oiling pads that don't throw lint off, but then I just wipe it around the pan, like let it drip, wipe it off to get the excess out, and then throw it in the oven. I do that like five, six times, and then uh it builds up enough of a coat so that you can build from there, you know. Do you have a better thing other than paper towels, Mark, to use for that? I mean, I mean, I do, but it sucks. Issues like um like kitchen side towels or white balls.
+
+[17:39] I like white balls. What's a which is the witches of white balls? Is that the Japanese sport towel? What is that? Yeah, I believe it is.
+
+[17:45] Yeah, you know what I'm talking about, those Japanese sushi sport towels. They're so expensive, man. Yeah, they're good. Yeah, but like the only issue with paper to side towels and paper towels, hey, you know, you could probably you you'd ruin it, and so the the front of house is gonna get pissed, but you could use a polishing cloth. They would hate you.
+
+[17:59] Those work great. Yeah, they would hate you though. But whatever. I mean, the thing is if you throw it away, you can blame the front of house for having lost it, right? I'm kidding.
+
+[18:08] Don't do that to your front of house. Anyway, uh let's go on to a question. We have a question. Uh oh, is that good? Is that good?
+
+[18:15] You happy with that? Let us know how it works. Perfect. Thank you very much. Alright, cool.
+
+[18:19] Uh okay. Alex in Toronto wrote in. Uh, and we'll take this question and then we'll go to a break. Uh a few weeks ago, I sent in a question about fond. I think you'll like this one, Mark.
+
+[18:28] Not not f like fond, like fond of you, like fond in the bottom of a pan when you're making the meat. Uh, and uh one about an upcoming event you mentioned. I was wondering if you had chosen not to answer, or maybe it got lost in the shuffle of the last few weeks. Uh I totally understand if this sort of thing is limited interest. But if it did simply get forgotten, here are the questions I sent before.
+
+[18:45] Alex, we do not ignore questions. If we missed it, it means we missed it. So please, anyone, if they send a question and we don't get to it, it means it got lost in the shuffle. Like maybe it got put on my iPad and then like I didn't see it because I didn't bold face it or whatever. But no, we don't we don't ever purposely have we ever purposely ignored a question?
+
+[19:03] No. No. No, no. We take anything. Wow.
+
+[19:06] Just like remember, like my grandma. Just like my grandma. That's his most famous, I think, saying back at the uh SCI about uh our intern uh Cliff Gilbert. Now we're gonna do an hour. Anyway, okay.
+
+[19:18] Uh let's take the second one first. Uh last week you started talking about an upcoming trip to Toronto. I'm a huge fan of cooking issues, and on the one occasion I was able to go, I love Booker and Dax. Will this Toronto event be something that is possible for a regular schlub like myself to get tickets to? Best Alex.
+
+[19:29] Well, uh being a schlub myself, I will be there. Uh but what am I doing? I'm actually tending bar in uh which which which restaurant over there. Um you're gonna look it up like I remember your first. I don't why would I why would the people on the air want to know about my flights?
+
+[19:49] I thought it was a personal thing. No, it was not a personal thing. Right at it. Okay, we'll look it up and we'll figure it out. But I believe that uh, you know, anyone in the restaurant that night uh can order cocktails that I will theoretically be making.
+
+[20:00] That's on the 10th. On the 10th. And then the other thing is uh there's a Toronto Film Festival, and I'm going to be discussing the relative merits or demerits of soil. And you're gonna say fire in a movie theater. Check this out, people.
+
+[20:14] Did I mention this on air already? Okay. So they want me to do a Sears all demonstration in a movie theater. Let me repeat this. They want me to do a Searsol demonstration involving torches and fire in a movie theater.
+
+[20:33] Now, I like fire more than the next guy. In fact, yesterday, my wife Jen was like, Dave, you're a freaking pyro. Like the theme that runs through your whole life is that you're a freaking pyro. From the time you're a kid. Whatever.
+
+[20:46] I'm building more rockets with Dax. I got like a I got like a five foot rocket called G Force that uses a G scale motor and flight, you know, huge, like crazy. The last time I made one, we had a problem with the ejection charge, and the thing burrowed like a foot into the ground. Would have gone through any car that hit crazy. Anyway, so so she's like, You're a pyro, you're you're imprinting the pyro on the children, whatever.
+
+[21:07] So I'm just saying, I like fire. Uh uh, I'm a cook. I think most cooks like fire. Mark? Love it.
+
+[21:14] Yeah, you love it, right? If you didn't like fire and you were a cook, that's kind of like a doctor who's a full afraid of blood. You know what I mean? Yeah. I mean questionable character.
+
+[21:22] Yeah. It's like yeah, go into raw food then. You could be you could be a raw food preparationist if you if you don't like the fire. Anywho, uh I think it's unwise to do a fire demo in a movie theater. It's like the classic that you don't yell fire in a crowded theater.
+
+[21:41] You know what the corollary to that is, math people? You don't make a fire in a crowded movie theater. You know? I'm gonna cry fire. I'm gonna make the I'm gonna turn on the series all and then go, fire!
+
+[21:54] Just kidding. No, I mean it's a ridiculous idea. Uh, you know what? Thank God it's not my movie theater. And you know what?
+
+[21:59] Anyone in Canada listening, are your rules different in Canada? Are you allowed to light fires in movie theaters in Canada? Maybe. Where I come from, movie theaters are made like a fabric and crap, and like, you know, like it's easy to have people get jammed in the doors and trampled to death. So we tend not to light fires in movie theaters here in this country.
+
+[22:14] You said the movie was soiling green, right? And that your demo is based off Soylent Green. Are you saying I'm supposed to cook people? Did you see that there's a we talked about this already on air that there's a a person marketing something called Soylent? Yeah, no, you were supposed to do something with it, remember?
+
+[22:28] No, that was a different Soylent. Oh, okay. So this this soylent, like that one was the one that's supposed to like that like a uh television personality who shall remain nameless, said, Will you do something with this product soylent, which was meant to uh kind of simulate milt, as the guy said, the milt. For those of you that are up on your uh fish fish bodily product terminology. I won't say the other, I won't say the human analogy on the air, but uh so I guess that would be made from proto people.
+
+[22:56] But this soylent is uh how far can we stretch that? But the this soylent is literally the this this person who's an engineering person says, Don't you hate how you spend all this time wondering what you're gonna eat and whether or not you're gonna enjoy it? Why not just take all the enjoyment out? Here's all of the nutrients you need that they currently know about mixed into a paste that you can squeeze into your mouth or drink. Takes two minutes and you can prepare a week's worth of meals and you could just drink it on the go.
+
+[23:22] You don't no longer have to worry about like whether you enjoy your life. More time for kickboxing and other crap that makes you not live any longer. You know what I mean? Let's say you if look look, when you're looking I love kickboxing, I love kickboxing, I think it's really awesome. Because it was on the it was on the damn uh like video for it.
+
+[23:39] Like they show this person who's like here's the thing about overly healthy people, right? Like, I think like crazy kung fu people that can do amazing stuff are freaking amazing. Like I love that they exist, I love it that they exist. But like the idea that we all need to be like hyper-cut, hyper fit, like somehow that's part of what it means to be like an acty, active, healthy, like urban person in today's environment. I think it's just it's just gross.
+
+[24:05] It's it's it's it's like instead of like your car expense of every other joy in life. Expense of every other joy in life, and at considerable actual monetary expense. It's like it's it's the current version of having a really sweet car. And I think in a way, it's just as gross as like I think like being fit and healthy is awesome. I think like the hyper fit, healthy, polished thing, it's just it's it's another like modern craziness, no?
+
+[24:30] Mm-hmm. Espe especially if it means that you're not, if you're if you're eating this. Here's a note to here's how you can tell whether you fall on the right side or the wrong side of like health. If you're buying soylent, you're on the wrong side. You know what I'm saying?
+
+[24:41] Like, that's it. That's the marker right there. If you if you are purchasing uh soylent because you spend too much of your time enjoying your life and not enough time uh uh with more kickboxing, problems. So did you want to know your plates? Uh no, I don't.
+
+[24:57] I want to know. I mean, eventually, but not right now. Okay, so the second question Alex had was uh hang tight on the second question. I have an enthusiastic caller on the line right now. All right, caller, you were on the air.
+
+[25:08] Hi, uh this is Matt from Milwaukee. I have a question about making an alcoholic squat eat. Okay. So we purchased uh uh our restaurant operates four nights a week, and then on Fridays and Saturdays, starting at eleven thirty, we kind of switch it to an underground ramen shop and just flying ramen and beers and stuff. We thought it'd be awesome to buy a slushy machine and make boozy flushies.
+
+[25:35] Uh and we were just wondering is there any special formulation that we're gonna have to do to make certain cocktails in this flushy mode? I know Parsons, chicken and fish in Chicago does Negroni fleshies, and that was when we learned of that, we were like, oh, light bulb. Okay. Oh, nice, nice uh nice uh despicable me reference. I appreciate that.
+
+[25:57] Uh the uh so here's the trick. Negronies are the the reason why, first of all, as we all know, Negronies are delicious and hugely popular in uh in the food service sector for the past um you know long time and recently have become kind of popularly popular in like kind of general general uh issue. But uh one of the amazing things about Negroni, one of the reasons you see it in so many different guises, is that that sucker is bulletproof. So it's it's good uh too cold. It's not really it's the one thing it's not good, is it's not really good too warm, but it's good too cold, it's good uh over diluted, it's good uh carbonated.
+
+[26:37] Very few drinks are as malleable as the uh Negronias, which is why it lends itself to a lot of things. Um so it's not a surprise that someone uh made a good tasting Negroni in a slushy format. It's a little trickier when you're dealing with um with other uh products. What you have to realize is that a slushy is in general going to be more diluted than uh a regular cocktail. So the first mistake people make with it with a s with a slushy based um with a slushy based drink is uh getting the alcohol level too high.
+
+[27:10] You need to pull the uh alcohol level uh uh lower. Also, Negroni is interesting because it doesn't contain other than the acidity from the vermouth, there's not um a lot of added acidity unless you're adding juices, and so you don't have to worry as much about the uh acid balance in uh in a negroni that's watered down as you do in a um in a cocktail that contains acidity, for instance, a margarita. When you're gonna dilute and chill something more than normal, what you need to do is slightly reduce the acidity and slightly increase the uh the ratios, sugar. In general, so so I'm not saying make it sweeter on a volume basis, because you don't want to do that, but I'm saying you're gonna want to uh uh decrease the acid to sugar ratio slightly. Uh and you'll you'll notice this as you dilute uh drinks down, drinks that um uh you you'll you'll you'll you'll know it, you'll just notice this.
+
+[28:07] That uh that that that's the way your kind of palate works. For a general guideline, I would look up uh I I have a published uh blender drink that works in a slushy machine that's done using a freezer in the New York Times magazine a couple months ago called the Italiana Stalliana, which is a take on a Harvey Wallbanger. And that that recipe is tweaked to work uh either in a fridge or in a uh in a slushy machine. And if you follow those ratios of liquid to alcohol, you should be in the right range. And uh, you know, I you know, if I had it with me, I don't have it with me.
+
+[28:42] I have a bunch of recipes with those specs, and actually I have the percentages in my cocktail book, which is coming out in November. Uh liquid intelligence from WW Norton. Uh, but so those have the specs. But I would start right around there. Does that make sense?
+
+[28:56] Yes, it does. Thanks. Thanks. We're uh we're always it has like cute slots in it. So we're always gonna have like a Wisconsin old fashioned in one of them with the brandy.
+
+[29:07] And then the other one, we actually want to have like stuff from around town and and cocktail guys from around town come by and do like whatever the hell they want for a week and just kind of have that as like a special mark. So one of the one of the things in my cocktail book that is kind of uh you know, relatively new for the cocktail books, as far as I can tell, is uh I have a chapter in it called Cocktail Calculus. And in cocktail calculus, what what I've done is I've uh looked at uh you know the standard ingredients that we use in our battery de cocktail. And uh I've knocked I've like I've broken them down by percentage acidity and percentage sugar, uh, and then looked at uh like alcohol, sugar, and dilution uh numbers for something like uh I think like uh I forget what it was, like 50 or 60 kind of classic cocktails, and then all of the recipes that I've ever created. And what I noticed stunningly is that uh the ranges for different styles of cocktail are fairly limited in terms of their uh acid to sugar ratios, and then in terms of how those acid to sugar ratios mix with um mix with ethanol levels for various styles of drinks.
+
+[30:19] And so now you can calculate all the stuff. So if you look up the numbers that are in uh that Italiano Stellano and you try to hit those numbers for sugar, and you know if you if you email me in a question and I can get you the actual numbers, you're looking for percentage ethanol, percentage sugar, percentage acid, I could talk about it next week. But that's ostensibly one of the interesting things about my cocktail book is this kind of new system where you're just looking at overall sugar acid and um ethanol percentages for different styles of drinks. But I have those numbers for blender drinks, and what I do for carbonated drinks at the bar is literally when I'm developing it, I just have those numbers and I just move the ingredients around until I hit the proper numbers and then it's a go from there. Excellent.
+
+[30:59] That's exact that's exactly what we're kind of looking for. Just to see if we could just formulate something like a sorbet. So if someone tells us like a day out, like, hey, will this work in the machine, then we can then we can do that to be ready for go time instead of wasting a bunch of hammer time without having a good product. All right, well, I'll give you some of the numbers if you email in a question, but you still have to go out and buy my book, deal. Uh absolutely.
+
+[31:23] You're gonna have like eight guys with this restaurant by your button. Cool, thanks. We're big we're big fans. I've been a listener since day one. Oh, I appreciate it.
+
+[31:30] Well, you know, I I am uh uh I cannot believe that people have listened to us for that long, but thank you so much. I appreciate it. Louise is still there? No. No, he's gone.
+
+[31:42] All right. Uh, we're gonna come to a break, come back with more uh cooking issues. Hi, I'm Damon Bolti, host of the Speakeasy. This summer, Heritage Radio Network is turning five years old. Since our launch in 2009, we've continued to bring you food and culture content like no one else.
+
+[32:12] And we need, absolutely need your help. HeritageRadio Network.org is a passionate, grassroots, action-oriented, nonprofit organization. That means we depend on the support from listeners like you to keep us alive. If you love what you hear on Heritage Radio Network, visit your website and become a member today. Thanks for listening, and thanks for your support.org.
+
+[33:13] The ICC with locations in New York and California provide cutting edge education to future chefs, restaurateurs, and wine professionals. We're proud to claim Dan Barber, Bobby Clay, and David Chang among our honored alumni. This is Dorothy Cann Hamilton from Chef's Story. Check out our ICC website at International Culinary Center.com. And we're back.
+
+[33:37] Welcome back to Cooking Issues. You still have time to call any questions to Mark Ladner at 7184972128. That's 7184972128. But before we get back to Alex's question about fund. Yeah.
+
+[33:56] And you have some other fundraiser you want to talk about. Why don't you uh describe it? Well, it's our five did you know it's our five-year anniversary this summer? I did not. Five years.
+
+[34:04] Five, five, five, five, four. We've been on it for what, four? Yeah. Three? Four?
+
+[34:08] It's been a long time. Yeah. Somewhere in that range. So what do we got for five years? So we're doing a summer fundraiser, and John Riper, thank you for donating.
+
+[34:17] And we hope the other Cooking Issues listeners might consider supporting the network for all of the programming we offer for free. And we are listener supported, nonprofit organizations, so any amount helps. It's HeritageRadio Network.org. And you can click the donate button. Jack, let me ask you a question.
+
+[34:34] Yeah. So, this programming on this show here, we provide this for what? How much do we charge for this? Zero. Wait, but is it free for us to make this?
+
+[34:42] Oh, it's not free for us to make, no. It's free for you to listen to. Wait, so there are costs that come along with uh running an internet radio station. So like all this stuff, this is not free yet. We do not charge for the product.
+
+[34:55] Correct. So this is a bad business model. It's a kind business model. Right. Yeah.
+
+[35:02] So in other words, what you guys out there need to do is support our bad business model by giving poor Jack some money so that he can by the way, uh Jack, the intro music today, was that was that you with like the kind of almost newsy ding needling in the back? No, no, the only people who hear that are the ones tuning in live. That was before the actual show started, and those are friends of the network who also give us music for free. So, you know. Yeah, oh, by the way, Jack, the not you, Jack, Jack the uh bar back at uh Booker and Dax, who's also in the NYU food program.
+
+[35:33] You know what? You know what he saw the other day uh talking about a friend of ours. He saw big ups in concert, Joe's band. He said, Joe, you know, Joe, also, you know, engineer here, wasn't it here? Uh, those of you that listen uh back in the day, uh, or when you were on uh the break, said he was an amazing frontman.
+
+[35:49] Said it was an awesome show. He's unreal. He's really, really good. Maybe we should all go see a big up show sometime. You remember Carlos?
+
+[35:55] Yeah. He's in big ups also. Yeah? Mm-hmm. Nice.
+
+[35:58] Well, apparently big ups to big ups. Yeah. I but like I heard that Joe like like strangles himself with the mic cord. He does, yeah, it's true. He like rips his face apart on stage.
+
+[36:08] It's insane. He likes stares at the ground sullenly for a minute, then wraps the mic cord around himself, chokes himself, and then goes crazy or something like this. You would never guess if you met the guy. No, he seems like a nice fellow. He's insane on stage.
+
+[36:19] So he's not like Alien Jorgensen. He doesn't cut himself, does he? No. Yeah. Well, I hope not, because Alien Jorgensen, I mean, God love him.
+
+[36:26] I can't believe he's still alive. But uh, not from cutting himself, but just all the freaking heroin. You know what I mean? So much heroin. I mean, I like old ministry.
+
+[36:34] You like old ministry, Mark and Jack or Styles? Yeah, right. Jesus built my hot rod. Not the version on the album, which I think is not as good, but the version on the EP that had the giant uh motor on the front of it, was a song that's gotten me through many problems in my life, many late nights. Jesus built my car.
+
+[36:50] You know that song, Jack? I don't. Oh my goodness! He can't play it either, because we need to get off those eight. Do you think we can get Alien Jorgensen?
+
+[36:58] You know who sings the uh lyrics on that is the guy from um the butthole surfers. Yeah. Anyways. That is a good song. And now it's going through my head, so I don't know if I'm gonna be able to answer these questions.
+
+[37:09] Uh I mean to talk about edible schools. Oh yeah, Stas. You know, our good friends at Edible School Yard, before we go back into the question. And then we'll just go do questions like rapid fire on the way out. So uh, you know, our good friends at the Edible Schoolyard who, you know, they just they just help kids like you know grow things and understand where their food comes from and make them appreciate things like you know, fresh vegetables.
+
+[37:28] I mean, really terrible idea, right? It's terrible. Terrible, terrible idea. Anyway, great. Uh so uh they are having a uh a fundraising event as well, and so Stas, why don't you talk about it?
+
+[37:39] It's to uh benefit their a new school in Harlem or a new edible schoolyard in in Harlem, and uh it'll if you donate, you'll go toward vital infrastructure improvements. So they have one where it's in Brooklyn, right? The current one? Yeah. So this one's going to be a good one.
+
+[37:55] So they they want to do one in Harlem, and people, this is a good project to support. Where do they go? Crowdrise.com. I think just look for Edible Schoolyard within it. Edible School Year of CrowdRise.
+
+[38:05] My son, uh actually Booker is no longer gonna be uh his school's no longer gonna be up in Harlem, but he's he's uh going um uh downtown next year. But he's been going to school in Harlem for the past six six years or so, and like you know, like a lot of the schools up there, they could use this sort of program. It'd be really helpful, useful, awesome, and uh worthwhile for your extra nickels. Now, you can't get Mark Ladner to come cook for you in that. But how do they get to uh before we before we don't forget, we didn't say where the Kickstarter is to find your thing.
+
+[38:34] You can go to www.pastaflyer.com. Pastaflyer.com. You also get to hear the voice of Phil Bravo, right? Yeah. Phil Bravo.
+
+[38:42] Phil Bravo. The mean cameo. Yeah, but giant D bag for not coming and announcing on our show. Mean I'm just gonna say huge D-bag. That's why we couldn't get them personal car service or something.
+
+[38:52] This is such a D bag. I don't know what that is. It doesn't work for free, Dave. Well, it doesn't work at all. Hey, how many times has has Phil mooched like liquor and or food off of some event that we've been a part of?
+
+[39:03] Tons. Yeah, think about it. Don't have enough fingers for it. Yeah, yeah, yeah. No one has enough fingers.
+
+[39:08] Even if you had a genetic genetic anomaly and you were born with like quadruple fingers, you wouldn't have enough fingers and toes to make up for the number of times Phil has mooched food and booze off of us. And like, you know, I'm just saying, all I wanted in return was a little bit of his sweet, sweet, thorough Ravencroft esque voice, uh doing his Tony the Tiger action. You've not lived until you've heard Phil Bravo do uh a sad Tony the Tiger, saying they're great in a really mopey voice. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[39:34] I mean, you know, Mark, you have quite a sonorous resonant voice, but even you would have to admit Phil Bravo has like the takes the cake. He's like a satin kerchief, uh Phil Bravo. Yeah, yeah. Yeah. Anyway, back to Alex's question before I get kicked off the air.
+
+[39:48] Uh a few weeks ago I sent in a question about fond. I was wondering uh uh I was let's get to the question. I make many recipes from Cooks Illustrated which rely on searing meat to create a fond, which is then used as a base for a sauce or a gravy. Do you like the word gravy styles? Mezzometsa?
+
+[40:03] Okay. Uh what about you know, Mark, I know that you're not from there, but like you know, you hang out in Rhode Island, right? Sure. Are they like Boston where they call sauce gravy when it's on macaroni real times? With do they call it macaroni and gravy like they do in Boston?
+
+[40:15] Sure. Really? Yeah, yeah. Yeah. You know, in Boston, they get that one.
+
+[40:19] Well, you're in New Haven, Dave. Do they do that? I didn't hang out with uh real like a t Italian Americans there. Uh I used to go to a place actually called the Marcagana Club, which was real, but I didn't talk to the cooks. It was all cops, nuns, dirty linoleum floor, and soap operas.
+
+[40:32] And it was like you had to have a key, and you went in and it was just like the weird, like the weird like salad bar, and you know, it's like the whole real deal. And you know, but you know what they say about people from Marque to better to have a death in the family than a Mark Jana at the door. You know what I'm saying? Yeah? Yeah, nice.
+
+[40:49] Anyway, no offense to people from Marque. Anyway, so the uh uh you know, tax collectors. Anyways, um uh I make many recipes from Cooks Illustrated, which rely on serum meat to create a font, which is then used as a base for a sauce or gravy. I was wondering if you could give me some tips about how to do this more effectively and efficiently. I sometimes have trouble getting a font to form at all, and often it takes a long time to form when I do succeed.
+
+[41:11] It does take a long time. I mean that's the idea. If it I mean there's no way you can't not have it take a long time because the idea is to create those those brown bits without burning it. I mean, there's no You need some BTUs too. I mean you can't do it.
+
+[41:23] Oh, yeah, yeah. Anyway, let's so uh when I do succeed, uh much longer than the recipe descriptions would indicate. Maybe underpowered stove. Yeah. Um I'd say so.
+
+[41:34] Yeah. Also, it seems that the delicious brown particles that are created end up suspended in the oil, much of which much beats discarded to avoid making the recipe greasy. Uh I think a lot of people use too much oil when they're trying to do something like this anyway. I mean, like it think about it this way. Well, we'll get into it.
+
+[41:47] It seems to me that several other uh several factors affect this process, including the amount of oil in the pan, yes. The temperature of the pan when the meat hits the metal, maybe more like the amount of heat you can deliver to it, really. You know what I mean? Um how high the element is turned, and probably oh element is turned. See, I'm thinking now that you have an electric range, which I've never had a good result with an electric range, right?
+
+[42:10] Have you marked? I mean induction, yes, but like like a regular like electric when whenever anyone says whenever anyone says the uh element is turned makes me think they have one of those old school electric ranges, which of they're like they have bad. I mean, I don't I mean look, you can work with it. You who like those things? Jane's beard.
+
+[42:28] Weird, right? Also, Jane's beard did not like fresh sardines, liked canned sardines, which I also like, but they're not the same product. Why would you even compare them? They're not the same. Anyway.
+
+[42:39] Um probably the temperature and the dryness of the meat itself. What are the optimal conditions for creating a delicious myard tastic fond? And what is my best bet for doing so, either quickly or uh efficiently in the home kitchen. Okay, so uh here's the thing. What do you think Mark Mark, you I think like a lot of people, they put they're gonna put too much oil in the pan, right?
+
+[42:57] I completely agree with that. Yeah. You want a little bit so that you get good contact, but you don't want some think about it this way. No fond develops on the inside of your deep fry pan. And the reason is is because the meat is not sticking to the side of your deep fryer.
+
+[43:10] If the meat don't stick, then you must it quit or whatever, however the uh OJ reference for it works. If the meat don't stick, there's no fond, which is why you can't create a good fond in a nonstick pan. Agree with me here, Mark? Yes, that's true. So a little bit of oil in there and you drop the meat in and and don't move it, let it sit, develop the color.
+
+[43:29] Stuff needs to stick to the pan. Stuff don't stick, remember the OJ, there's no font. You know what I'm saying? Uh I think the other thing is is that usually when I'm doing it, uh I'm doing a bunch of meat in the pan and like and and in the same pan, and the first couple of pieces aren't ever as good as like the fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth, you know, when you're when you're doing multi, let's say you're doing a braise and you're doing the first couple are never gonna be uh as uh as good. Um I'm not I mean it needs to be hot enough to create uh the it needs to be hot enough to actually create the myard products that stick to the thing so in that sense if you overcrowd your pan and it never gets up to those temperatures then you're just gonna be you know steaming your meat and you're not gonna get a good fond but I mean I'm I'm also not one of these people who like puts like one little piece in and then because if if you underfill your pan then you're gonna burn the fond on the edges that have already been created.
+
+[44:23] So it's a it's a this is why like you need to start out hot once it's actually in steering mode you can torque back on it a little bit. And if you overcrowd your pan you you're not going to create a fond at all and if you undercrowd your pan you're gonna get burning of the especially around the edges of the pan if your flame is if you have a flame, if it's licking up or over on the sides. And burnt fond is nasty fond, am I right? That is true. Yeah.
+
+[44:45] So uh I always do it in this order I do uh meat first then uh then the onion product right do you always do the same way onions yeah but like after the meat right first then and then you can increase the oil a little bit and do the onions. If but if you're doing a meat only if you don't have that much oil you're not gonna get that problem with uh losing it all all the particles in the oil and and the second thing is is that don't scrape your pan when you're doing this stuff because you're trying to get the stuff to stick to the pan. So you shouldn't have too much stuff floating in the in the oil right or no? Yeah I think the main problem is using too much oil. The the main purpose of the the fat is just so that the meat doesn't stick.
+
+[45:27] Yeah yeah and I've never thought about uh I've never thought about I always salt beforehand when I'm doing these because it's always in braces, but do you think that affects it at all? The salting? I mean, I think it would pull protein to the it would pull protein to the surface and maybe get more protonaceous stuff onto the pan, which is going to make more fun. But I don't know for sure. Maybe someone out there knows.
+
+[45:47] What about cold? Do you do temper your meat or do you start it cold like right out of the refrigerator? I mean, it's interesting. I've never done a side-by-side, uh, but um, I mean, you and I both know that usually what happens is is you get the stuff out, you're doing your pre prep work, and then you sear on it. So it's never fridge cold by the time it gets into the pan, because I'm never that if I'm gonna be searing it, unless I'm doing low temp work, which sometimes I am, but I'm doing low temp work, then I'm very careful about keeping it cold while I'm doing my initial sear.
+
+[46:16] But if I'm doing a standard braise, I mean that stuff warms up. I don't even give a crap because I know I'm in fact I you know, like I'm throwing them in and out of the same buckets where I'm like seared, you know, the seared versus unseared stuff because it just doesn't freaking matter to me. Are you the same way or no? No, I keep it separate. You keep it totally separate?
+
+[46:33] Yeah. Even though you're gonna braise the hell out of it? Compartmentalized it. I know. Well, you know what?
+
+[46:38] That's the difference between like an actual pro and someone who came at being uh a semi-pro from the back end. You know what I mean? This is why people yell at me. So uh I'm told that I have to uh get the hell off of the air. So I have some questions.
+
+[46:50] Um I have one uh some interesting stuff actually uh about um soy, how to how to get a soy sauce flavor without soy that I'm gonna get to uh next week. Uh some low temperature bags, and also uh I have one uh maybe I can do I have like 30 seconds? Not really. Uh all right, so uh I'll also get to the uh care for non stick pans, how to clean them out. Hint Scotchbrite makes a non-scratch version that you can use in your Teflon in your uh nonstick pants.
+
+[47:16] And about Teflon in general next week on cooking Issues. Thanks to listening to this program on heritage Radio network.org. You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at Heritage Underscore Radio. You can email us questions anytime at info at heritageradio network.org.
+
+[47:43] Heritage Radio Network is a 501c3 nonprofit. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] The following program has been brought to you by Rolling Press, a family-run, eco-friendly printing company. For more information, visit Rollin Press.com. I'm Damon Bolte, host of the Speakeasy. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick, Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more.
+
+[0:27] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is your guest radio announcer, Phil Bravo here, live from Roberta's Pizzeria on the Heritage Radio Network from Bushwick, Brooklyn. Call in all your questions to 718-497-2128. And now, Dave Arnold. Whoa, yeah!
+
+[0:49] Yeah, Phil. That's right. Joined not only by the inimitable voice of Phil Bru. His body, who cares? The brain.
+
+[0:56] Doesn't matter. The voice. The voice of Phil Bravo. Exactly. What is that?
+
+[1:06] A combination of humpback whale and Godzilla? What is that? It's an air horn. Well, Phil Phil's a huge gator fan. I'm sure he has stock in an air horn company.
+
+[1:16] I I absolutely do, and Vuvozela's exclusively. What's a is that at the brand of Airhorn to Beat? No, the Vuvuzela. It's the thing from uh South Africa from the World Cup. Yeah, too much.
+
+[1:24] Oh, that irritated the crap out of everyone? That's the one. Yeah, yeah. What kind of noise does that make? Uh it's like more like a kind of thing.
+
+[1:31] Uh Phil, by the way, teaches recorder to small children. Uh, and works at uh at the Hall of Carne car Hall of Carnegie, right? Yeah, well it's Carnegie, though. Carn Carnegie and uh Well, you know how Booker pronounces it, right? I know.
+
+[1:43] Carnegie. Carnegie. Carnegie. Which I think is fitting for what the guy did. You know, he's a robber baron, so Carnegie.
+
+[1:49] But then he gave it away. He invented philanthropy. Well, kind of Carnage Hall. Kind of. It's like, you know, uh I mean, we all like libraries and stuff, but I don't know that it's like I don't know it's okay to like kill ten people to give a third, you know, uh 11th person a book.
+
+[2:04] Hey, you know, it's uh you know uh whatever we call that. Yeah, carnage. Yeah. Uh but the uh look, I love the Robert Baron era, I do. I love it.
+
+[2:13] Uh also joined in the studio by uh Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. Can you say the hammer in Phil voice? Oh, I can do a Nastasio the hammer Lopez. Oh yeah, and Jack in the engineering booth. Jack, you loving this announcement stuff?
+
+[2:26] Yeah, this is awesome. It's awesome. I mean, Phil, Phil, I'm not gonna make any insults about you personally. Your voice, though, built for radio. It's true, yeah.
+
+[2:34] I feel like I'm just here to like dance for you, Dave. Uh well, you well, one last dance before we get into some questions. And uh obviously, I don't know if you know this, uh, Phil, because Phil being a friend of uh Nastasha does not listen to this program ever. Sometimes I he listened. When we call him out, she fast forwards to the part where we're calling him out, and then you know, we've said some choice things about Phil in the past.
+
+[2:54] Uh but as you know, uh when you're on the show, like you're expected to chime in at various points, you know, no silent even announcing bystanders. Uh but before we uh before we go any further, can I please have sad Tony the Tiger? Oh no, see, this is the thing. You said sad Tony the Tiger. I could do happy Tony the Tiger.
+
+[3:13] No, you no, you'd have the best sad Tony the Tiger. You can do like a like you did this awesome one before. Ava Nastasia. They're great. I mean, you can do that.
+
+[3:25] Do the do the real Tony Tiger. Well, you have like what do you what do you want? Like, do you enjoy Frosted Flakes? I do. Frosty Flakes.
+
+[3:31] They're great. See what I'm talking about? You know what I'm saying? They're fine. You know what I mean?
+
+[3:41] That's a, by the way, uh, for those of you, and I'm not gonna make him do this because he only does this when he's way drunk at the Christmas time. But the voice of Tony the Tiger, the late great Thurl or Ravencroft, who uh was one of the lead uh uh kind of like novelty voices for Spike Jones, not the movie maker, the original musician, because Spike Jones, right? Who did, yeah. And uh also the voice, often misrepresented. The the Grinch, the real one, the cartoon one, not that BS Jim Carrey, you know, nonsense.
+
+[4:11] The voice was of course Boris Carloff of The Grinch. Everyone thinks Boris sang the song. Nope. Nope. That would be incorrect.
+
+[4:21] That would be Thurl Ravencroft. He also had a band, but I forget the name of it. I'm sure it was awesome. Wasn't he also the voice in Monster Mash? Uh that I don't know.
+
+[4:28] I think he was the It Happened in the Lab Late One Night guy. It would make some sense. Have you ever done that song in karaoke? I haven't yet, but now I know it's uh it'll I'll add it to the list. October's not that far away, Phil.
+
+[4:38] The band is the Melloman. The Mellow Mellon. Can you do me a favor, Jack, and check to see whether my man Thurl did uh the uh it was working in the lab late one night when when his eyes beheld a scary sight. I will look that up. Yeah, nice.
+
+[4:52] But it doesn't seem like it. You don't think so? I would think it's a good one. I'm searching, it doesn't seem like it. But the thing is it's not a question of whether or not because he was a he was a serious like session guy back then.
+
+[5:00] So his voice was used in a in a bunch of stuff, like commercials. I mean, a lot of the guys in uh, you know, in that business back then, they were just like, yo, Thurrell, we need someone with the low voice. Why don't you come and record something for me? You know what I mean? And that's yeah, I'm trying to basically uh fill fill that role.
+
+[5:14] So if anybody wants to want to call it Phil Bravo, that role. And the other thing, you know, like people like uh like some of the great music from the 70s, and I'm not just talking or like 80s, I'm not talking like, you know, the different strokes theme, which is fine as far as it goes, but I'm talking like Sanford and Sun. That's musically great stuff. Yeah, it's fantastic. And you know, it's just like a bunch of like session dudes just showed up in the place when they're like burn, burn, burn, br, burn, br.
+
+[5:38] You know what I mean? And then that's it. That stuff was awesome. Rockford Files, intensely good tune. You know what I mean?
+
+[5:44] Session guys in the 70s laid down pretty much uh ton of good music, didn't get paid for. Yeah, we're about in this in the 60s. You got your mission impossible. That's in five, isn't it? Bam, bam, bam, bam, bam, bam.
+
+[5:55] Yeah, awesome stuff. Although the new movie, they changed it to four. Yeah, because those D-bag remixing douches couldn't sorry, it's family program. By the way, Phil, it's a family program. Family program.
+
+[6:04] They're like, no one, no one can move the butts in in five. We've got to put it in four four. Gotta let it be in four four so the butts can move. It's Mission Impossible. Your butt's not supposed to move.
+
+[6:13] You're supposed to be on the edge of your seat wondering whether these guys are gonna get their faces blown off. Or ripped off as the case might be in uh in Mission Impossible. Exactly. Anyway, a lot of questions to get to. However, you can call into questions to 7184972128.
+
+[6:26] That's 71849728. Trying to try a little bit of the fill, but I can't go with low fill. I'm more like 7849. That's my my normal radio voice. That's a good Dave impression.
+
+[6:35] Yeah, squeaky, squeaky, squeaky McGigan. Uh okay. Uh got a call in from Philippe. Lately I've been making fruit juice meringues in the style of El Bully, which translates roughly to the bully. I'm kidding, it doesn't.
+
+[6:49] Uh El Bully's meat uh beat meat meringue. That'd be kind of awesome. Stars had an I've I for once wanted to be vegan face. That's the only time you've ever had the for once I want it to be vegan face. But you would like a beef broth meringue, right?
+
+[7:01] Uh in a savory pres. Like you have a savory presentation and like a little puff of like F fifteen? No, no. No? Mm-mm.
+
+[7:08] I mean, I've had Nori. You like Nori, right? Norian. I don't like the I don't like meringues. I really like You don't like sugar meringues?
+
+[7:15] I just don't like the texture. I never liked your F50 things. But you don't like also regular egg meringues? No, not really. What about like uh meringue on a soft meringue on a pie?
+
+[7:26] No. Don't like pies. You don't like pie? You don't like pie? I don't really like pies though.
+
+[7:35] You don't like freaking pie? I don't like hot fruit. Uh lemon meringue pie is served how jack? Not hot. Not hot.
+
+[7:42] Phil, what do they serve that? What's that other word I'm looking for? Cold. I'm gonna go for cold. Cold.
+
+[7:46] I'm gonna go for cold. I'll say fria. Yeah. What about key lime pie? It's not hot fruit.
+
+[7:51] What the hell? It's not hot fruit, it doesn't mean to be hot. You don't need to heat a pie. You know I don't like puff pastry. Uh what is wrong with you?
+
+[8:01] Yeah. I I'll eat it. I just don't like it. Well, uh chalk it up on the list of things. Like the only thing that Nastasha really enjoys sour catch goods.
+
+[8:09] Uh human pain. And pasta. And pasta. Yeah, but how do you not like pie? How do you like pie?
+
+[8:16] I'll eat it. But like a when you mention key lime pie, does it your key lime pie with a either a meringue or uh a whip topping? That's correct. So although I can eat it, I like it straight. I'm not just I can eat it.
+
+[8:28] I enjoy almost any form of key lime pie. I prefer not to have the fake green coloring in it. Uh oh, but by the way, uh Phil Florida. Florida. We were trying to get him here the day that Lenny was here because she hates all people from Florida, so we thought it might be awesome.
+
+[8:41] Yeah, we wanted we wanted not to tell her you were from Florida to see if she hated you. Yeah. Yeah, we're gonna surprise. Oh, uh, you shouldn't. If you're from Florida, she doesn't really hate Florida people, you should still buy her product.
+
+[8:54] Uh I'll be actually in Key West in two weeks. Yeah? Yeah. Yeah, living the dissolute lifestyle. Exactly.
+
+[9:00] What's that one song? Uh Largo. No, that's key largo. Montigo, yeah. No, no, you're she's thinking of uh it does say and the Florida keys.
+
+[9:07] No, no, she's thinking of uh we had it all just like Bogey and Bacall. Yeah, different. Yeah, you know, down where the tray winds blow. Say away to Key Largo. Key Largo, yeah.
+
+[9:15] Say it away to Keelago, don't get it through my head. My god. Nastasha hung out with the son of that singer. Apparently does not like references to that song. No, it gets angry.
+
+[9:24] By the way, Bacall's still having it all, not dead yet, which is awesome. I saw her on the street, like maybe she is now, but I saw her on the street like two years ago. It's like Laura McCall. Did you say hi to her? Of course not.
+
+[9:33] She she saw the look on my face and started shuffling a little faster. Get the hell out of my way. You know what I mean? Lauren Bacall, awesome. Okay, wait a minute.
+
+[9:40] We're back to the question here. Uh but uh again, I w you know, why don't we get any callers in? Oh, but say say Nastasha, what the hell? How do you not like pie or biscuits or puff pastry? Callers are scared of her, that's why.
+
+[9:52] Well, I guess with a nickname like the hammer. Right. You know, how can you not be scared? Um, okay. Um, in the style of the El Bullies beet meringue.
+
+[10:01] I don't think I'd like beet meringue, though. I think most beet juice products taste dirty to me. Like like Jasmine, like dirt. I am using centrifuged strawberry juice. First of all, I would say when you're making a meringue, what you really want is the uh see, because we I'll finish the question first.
+
+[10:19] I blend it with a s with uh isomalt and uh albumin powder. That's egg white powder for all of you people who don't speak albumin, and isomalt which acts like sugar but is not as sweet. So it's a semi sweet. But if you eat enough, it sure gives you the runzo because you can't digest it. But everyone's like, oh, I ate the ice malt and I poop my brains out.
+
+[10:38] And they're full of crap. They ate a little bit of isomalt and they think they're gonna poop their brains out. It's like the same thing with I ate two Olestra potato chips and my body was stripped of vitamin D and I was pooping all day. No, that's not how it works. You know what I mean?
+
+[10:44] But uh, anyways. Um having done these tests myself. Uh now, uh, I let that hydrate overnight, which is a good idea. Egg white uh powder needs to rehydrate for a long time. A lot of times people have trouble uh whipping the egg white powder, they just haven't let it hydrate long enough.
+
+[11:05] Uh and then I whip it. Give it some whip. Whip. Come on, Stas. I know you like that right now.
+
+[11:11] Whip. Uh whipped it to stiff peaks. I pipe little kisses. Do you hate that even more? Kisses.
+
+[11:16] Little kisses. Stas has her I hate kisses face on. Uh onto a dehydrate, dehydrate, dehydrator tray, and dehydrate. They are crisp within three hours. Do you like the word crisp?
+
+[11:27] Crisp. Uh they're crisp within three hours and they're nice and airy. Except as soon as I take them out, they go soft quickly. I realize this could be Oh! Oh, family program.
+
+[11:40] Family program. I realize this could be a humidity issue. Whenever anyone says humidity, I think of uh lethal weapon three where the guy goes diplomatic immunity and I say diplomatic humidity. And then like I imagine myself getting shot by uh with that glover, right? Uh no, no, it wasn't a Gibson that shot him.
+
+[11:55] Was it Gibbs in the shot? Someone will tell us. Um I could realize this could be a humidity issue. I keep them in a deli container with a silica pack. What can I do to keep what else can I do to keep them crisp?
+
+[12:06] Uh well, uh, you can just leave them in the dehydrator for as long as you want during service. So during service, what I would typically do is leave them in a dehydrator. But you're gonna want to turn your dehydrator way down. Way down. So, like if you're dehydrating, it, let's how do you say way down?
+
+[12:20] Say way down for me. Way down. Yeah. Uh so like uh if you're normally rocking somewhere between 135 Fahrenheit to 125 Fahrenheit, uh in that range, up to maybe 140, uh, you're gonna really blast them out if you let them go that long. But if you turn it down to like 100, 110, assuming your kitchen's not 110, you'll drive off, you'll keep the stuff uh from uh sucking up too much extra humidity, and you can just keep them for service in the dehigh.
+
+[12:44] Barring that, what I used to do is get uh mason jars and uh not the not the ones with the little crappy thin lids, the ones with the actual thick rubber seals, and I would put them in uh I would put the the products in mason jars in a vacuum machine, suck a vacuum, and the lid gets sucked down when the air comes back in. Just make sure that the air coming back in doesn't puff the lid off the top, which you'll see what I mean when you do it. And they stay forever in those mason jars, and they don't require the silica packs, and you just open them as you go if you're gonna use a bunch for service. But if you need them to keep going during service, you can use a silica packs or the best way is to just have a dehydrator that you keep out there for service. Yeah?
+
+[13:18] Mm-hmm. Yeah. Try the F50 instead of the meringue. Try the F 50. But I wouldn't centrifuge the uh see.
+
+[13:24] Here's what's happening. Uh you're you're using the egg white powder to add the protein that you and and the structure that you you took out all the structure when you clarified the juice. So now it's just sugar with some flavor. And so you're adding the egg white powder so that it has the actual like structure that an egg white foam would have, because it literally is an egg white foam. And the sugar to add the bodying uh and the you know the kind of textural effects of the meringue.
+
+[13:47] If you just you if you just keep it uncle uh if you don't clarify the strawberries, you have all that pectin in there, and that pectin can help provide structure for the uh meringue itself. And then you could just use something like F50, and you wouldn't have to add any extra sugar if you wanted to keep them uh like less sweeter. Do whatever you want. I'm just saying there's alternate ways to do there's alternate ways to do everything, and then it's vegan, but not natural because metal cell ain't natural, baby, it doesn't come in the in the real life in the nature. Okay.
+
+[14:17] Uh a collar. A color. You're on the air. Hey, Dave, this is Johnny from Memphis. How you doing?
+
+[14:24] Doing all right. Um, I have a question about uh circulators. Uh-huh. Um after you cure an item, pork belly or whatever, and you wash the salt off. Um will it damage the circulator to like fill it up with the cured item with like cold water, 70 degrees or so, and put the circulator on like 90 Fahrenheit and let it rise up uh to 90 with the uh post-cured item in there.
+
+[14:57] Wait, see, see wait, so we're gonna get this straight before we go on. You want to you want to keep the item in water, not in a bag, and just have the actual thing circulating like kind of commando style in the in the bath? Correct. Like instead of uh rinsing the item, you know, after transition after the cure. I get you instead of like running water over it for a couple hours.
+
+[15:19] I get you um, you know, just bring it up to 90 degrees, change the water out, fill it up with cold water again, maybe two or three times. Right. What's your what brand of circulator do you have? Uh a polyfile, I believe it's a classic, just like the first one that came out. Metal?
+
+[15:37] Yeah. No problem. Here's what you do. Uh you're gonna want to wrap the cage in uh cheesecloth so that uh things like uh, you know, whatever you have in there, mustard seed or whatever, doesn't get sucked into the thing, because that can be a pain in the butt. Uh I've done it before I've circulated wood chips, I've circulated lobster shells and butter, I've circulated everything.
+
+[15:58] The the only thing you don't want to do is suck particulate matter in through the bottom of the bell because it clogs up quickly. I mean you you'll know when it gets clogged. Uh I've even done it with you know the new plastic guys, they're just a little bit harder to you know clean out. Um but yeah, I would I would go ahead. Because once you once the stuff gets into the bell, then you need to disassemble the bell.
+
+[16:22] If if if it stops, if you actually put enough particulates into the bell to stop the impeller from running, then you gotta open up the belt. Not the end of the world, but you know, you don't necessarily want it to happen. So I would just you you know make sure that uh you know that you normally if I'm gonna circulate spices in a bath like this, I stick the item in a cloth. And you can actually do that in this case. You can just take the cured thing, wrap it in cheesecloth, tie it, and you'll still get good circulation through, and you'll rinse you won't rinse off solids, but you'll rinse out um soluble items.
+
+[16:50] You know what I mean? Um but the the other alternative is to wrap the actual circulator itself so that nothing gets stuck in now you you you you don't want to wrap it such that you don't get good flow anymore. That's the that's the the flip side of it. Right. All right.
+
+[17:03] Thank you. No, also remember if if you want everything to rinse evenly, make sure to keep all of the pieces of meat slightly separate so that water can get in between them. As long as water can get even a little bit in between all of your stuff, you it's everything's gonna even out pretty well. But as soon as two blocks of meat get stuck next to each other, the parts that are stuck together might as well be the thickness of of the both things put together. There's no there's no action happening on them.
+
+[17:25] You know what I'm saying? Yeah, I'll do it. All right, very good. Good luck. Let us let's know how it works out.
+
+[17:31] All right, appreciate it. Cool. Thanks. All right. Um wait so Stars, what's this question here?
+
+[17:36] What am I supposed to do? Uh don't worry about number one. So why'd you put it on the thing? Why do you tell you? What?
+
+[17:40] I was gonna tell you. Okay. All right, but you didn't. Alright. Thanks, all right.
+
+[17:45] We got uh this is from uh Brian Garrick. Do we know where you remember where Brian lives? No. No? Good job.
+
+[17:44] All right. Uh do you know where I could find a three to seven? I sorry it's not from Brian. This is uh this is from uh our boy B. Muncasey.
+
+[17:58] But where does he live? They don't say. They used to, and then we've Some do, some don't. Anyway, long time question asked. They put it on there, I put it on there.
+
+[18:06] Yeah, anyway, whatever. Do you know where we could find a three to seven day vacation cooking school to learn modernist techniques? Well, I mean, I used to teach those kind of classes. Uh the FCI or the ICC now, the International Culinary Center, might still teach those classes. Do they still teach us?
+
+[18:23] Does anyone know whether they still teach those classes? I don't know. Jack, do you know? Because Dorothy was on. Yeah.
+
+[18:28] I don't. I've kind of fallen out of that kind of you know, the cooking school world. But I'm sure Chef Steps probably does something. I don't know whether they do they do live classes. Do we know?
+
+[18:37] They probably do some sort of live classes, or if they don't, they'll probably would set them up. But the ICC, I'm sure still runs the low temperature cooking class that uh, you know, we used to teach. They may run still the hydrocolloids class that we used to teach. I know they don't do the Harold McGee class that that we used to teach because then he would call me and say that he was doing that class. And the but the other the other alternative is of course uh see what they got on the chef steps, right?
+
+[19:00] Mm-hmm. Yeah, yeah. Uh okay, and three, what would be uh appropriate streamlined scientific approach to figure out the best in quotes sous vide technique for bull peanuts? Do you uh coming from Florida? Do you like bull peanuts?
+
+[19:15] I love a boiled peanut. Yeah. I'm telling you. And it's more Georgia. Yeah, but like you ever if you ever go to Northern Florida, that's Georgia.
+
+[19:21] That's yeah, no, no, absolutely. Gainesville. Yeah, give me give me some give me some southern give me a bull peanut. No, I bull boiled peanut. Yeah, it's not boiled peanuts.
+
+[19:28] Bald. Bald peanut. I'm like, what the hell is it? Aren't all peanuts bald? I mean, they're kind of sure, no, no, sound boiled peanut, boiled peanut.
+
+[19:36] And I'm like, what the hell are you talking about? The first time, by the way, that you've had a boil a boiled peanut, you're if you're from the north, uh, like I am, uh, you're like, this is gross. And then, you know what I mean? Do you like boiled peanuts? I don't think I've had one.
+
+[19:51] Magical. Yeah. So, but like, the first time you have it, you think it's gross, and it's part of the classic American uh not really American, it's kind of worldwide problem of people have expectations, and if something doesn't exactly meet their expectations, like, yeah, it's gross. You know what I mean? Uh, because we're like, peanuts are supposed to be crunchy.
+
+[20:09] You know what I mean? No, boiled peanut is not supposed to be crunchy. We forget that the peanut legume, peanut legume, and can be cooked uh as such. Boiled peanut tastes not like a peanut. So don't walk in.
+
+[20:21] If they just called them boiled sack of goodness, you'd be like, oh, those are really good. It's still sold by a guy out of a pickup truck on the side of the road, though. I think it still has the same issue. Well, I mean, in other words, like your two choices down there are those sausages that are soaked in that red goop with a red goop's gun on, like half the way through it, and the boiled peanut. I'd say the boiled peanut's the safer route.
+
+[20:44] Gonna go with you. Yeah, at least it's boiling. It's not in some vat with like a bunch of weird floaties that who the hell knows what it is. You're like, I think that floaties an onion piece. I'm not sure.
+
+[20:54] And he's like, Jig it out. I threw some uh boiled eggs in with the sausage vat. You're like, nah, nah. Nah. What's that called?
+
+[21:03] God knows. God knows. Like, you know what I'm talking about, though, Phil. Boiled vat. Yeah.
+
+[21:07] You know what I'm talking about. Uh, anywho, uh, the best scientific approach for a sous vide boiled peanut. Well, the first thing you gotta do is you have to decide exactly what constitutes a good boiled peanut for you. First thing I would do is is get a bunch of different kinds of peanuts to do it on. And you're gonna want to get like a good uh uh raw peanut variety.
+
+[21:23] I mean, obviously I'm partial, although who knows? Like, who knows whether Virginians are the best for boiled peanuts? I don't know, I haven't done the extensive study because you don't need them to be crunchy because they're not gonna be crunchy. But the Virginia peanuts are huge, and so they'll probably be good for boiled peanuts, right? So your first thing is they're gonna be gonna get a good set of uh a good a good supply of the peanuts.
+
+[21:41] Like that's gonna be your first thing. I mean, I'm sure like when you go to our Chinatown and you get the raw peanuts, they're still in shell, but they've been sitting there for like eight billion million years. Like, just like you know, growing that sweet, sweet aflatoxin. I'm sure that that's not gonna make the best boiled peanut, right? So then you figure out like, okay, okay, I got a good source of peanuts, and then you gotta, well, what do I want out of a boiled peanut?
+
+[22:02] What is it about a regular boiled peanut? Boiled, what is it about it that you didn't like? You know what I mean? And uh my guess, and you know, I've done this a long time. My guess, not boiled peanuts, but I mean cooking, uh low temp, is that the temperature control on the peanuts is not gonna be that important.
+
+[22:21] So the advantages you're gonna get out of going sous vide aren't gonna be from a temperature standpoint, they're gonna be from a flavor concentration standpoint because you're gonna be cooking them in substantially less water. Uh I don't think you're ever gonna want to do an out-of-the-shell boiled peanut because God didn't want boiled peanuts to be eaten that way. God wanted you to shell the weird kind of papery wet shell and then put them in that little bowl or throw them out the window of your car. Or just eat them. You eat the shell?
+
+[22:50] I eat the shell. Wow. Real southerner. I love that. That's where the salt is.
+
+[22:55] Wow. Alright. So, anyways, my point being figure out what it is you like about a boiled peanut. And then I wouldn't worry about temperature control. What I would do is figure on water level first.
+
+[23:04] I would choose I would choose without any spices at all. Three different uh water to peanut ratios in a bag. Uh I would uh do it uh at three different vacuum levels, one in a ziploc bag, and then oh actually, you know what? No, don't do plain water. Do salt so you can figure out salt penetration on this, get two tests out at once.
+
+[23:21] Choose the same salt level on uh for your brine, do three different brine ratios on the peanut and then three different vacuum levels on each brine ratio. Start with Ziploc bags, then a you know relatively full vacuum, like 99%, let's call it like 15 millibar, and then one where you suck the living crap out of it and then inject as much in almost like you were doing uh vacuum infusion. Cook those um those nine bags in at in simmering water at the same time for the same amount of time. Uh pull them out and test them and see whether you can see any difference between them in terms of salt penetration and in terms of peanut flavor. And from there on out, you're gonna start honing in on which of the columns and rows, you know, vacuum level and brine level that you like the most, and you can start honing in on uh kind of where you want it to be.
+
+[24:07] Once you've done that, then if you want to add spices, you can add them at that point to see how much kind of penetration you get through the shell. Then, yeah, fair? Mm-hmm. Take a break. Uh I can't I can't say it.
+
+[24:19] Guess announcer has to take us to a break. Uh and now we'll be taking a break. You're supposed to say coming right back with cooking issues. Oh, sorry. Uh we'll be right back with cooking issues, hi everybody.
+
+[24:50] I'm Phil Calicchio, the host of the Business of the Business here on the Heritage Radio Network. And this summer we are turning five. The Heritage Radio Network is five years old. Since our launch in 2009, we've continued to bring you food and culture content like nobody else in this business. And we need, and when I say need, I mean need your help.
+
+[25:12] HeritageRadio Network.org is a passionate, grassroots, action-oriented non-profit organization. And that means we depend upon the support of listeners like you to keep us alive. If you love what you hear on this radio station, the Heritage Radio Network, please visit our website and become a member today. Thanks for listening. Thanks for your support.
+
+[25:34] You gotta be economically sustainable. Help us out. Thanks. Bye. Today's program was brought to you by Rolling Press.
+
+[25:48] Rolling Press is a family-run digital and offset printhouse that brings together eco-friendly methods, ethical practices, and personalized service. Using environmentally responsible papers, non-toxic inks, and wind power, rolling press represents the harmony of traditional craftsmanship and mindful sustainability. Rolling Press offers advice on reducing paper waste and energy consumption, helping you save money and minimize your carbon footprint. For more information, visit Rolling Press.com. Hi, I'm Reggie Watson.
+
+[26:16] You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.org. Welcome back to Cooking Issues with Dave Arnold and Nastasia the Hammer Lopez. Hey, Reggie Reggie Watts, got nothing on you. I love him. I mean, he knows how to.
+
+[26:28] I can't, you know, my favorite song I can't do on the air because this is a family program, but it's a sugar honey iced tea and then other kind of stack. This has not been a family program thus far, as promised. It is a family program. So uh Phil had a Phil, of course, saves his best story for during the break. So I give it a give a little 30 second uh shout out to your uh to your boy peanut friend.
+
+[26:48] Oh no, so I have uh I just have a very good friend who had a uh in this is in northern South Florida, kind of West Palm area, but would always drive home every day, and there was both the boiled peanut person who was also doubled as the shrimp guy, and he so he would have like shrimp just in the back of his pickup truck, and so it was always the internal debate of is it a bald also bull and bald peanuts. Yeah, but the shrimp also the shrimp were on i know the shrimp were on ice. They were just raw shrimp that you were buying to like bring home. Like he was just like your shrimp monger. So, like, is it okay to buy shrimp from the back of a truck on a random road outside of like Okeechobee?
+
+[27:20] I don't know. But it turns out Oh, it was great. Yeah. Like after a it was a long Facebook debate, and uh everyone everyone uh was on both sides of the fence. So the new the New York version of that is we used to have a mini meat packing district up at like about 125th Street near where the fairway is now on the west side.
+
+[27:36] And uh so when you used to come off the west side highway there, there would be dudes in white, not talking like 70s, 80s, I think maybe as late as the 90s, but I don't remember it when I was actually up there in the 90s for grad school. So it's like 70s, 80s kind of thing. Dudes would literally just be on the street, you'd pull off the West Side Highway and 125th Street. This we're talking about by the 24 hour McDonald's for any of you guys who know the neighborhood over there, and just standing out there with meat in their hands. Like meat, like a steak, like a raw steak, like on 125th Street, and you're like, I ain'm gonna buy a steak.
+
+[28:08] This is what Madonna was talking about when she said New York in the 80s, uh, you know, had more danger. And you know, it was the meat gong and meat guys at 125th. Well, the awesome thing is is like that's like the safest thing you could be doing is buying street steaks, uh, you know, at that at that time. Uh I miss the street steak. You know, it's like I don't like what I never knew was I never knew whether the guy was like, hey, oh Eddie, go out and sell some of these uh steaks.
+
+[28:32] They didn't pick up the order, they're gonna go bad. Or whether it was, I'm stealing these steaks, I'm gonna sell them because the boss is so drunk, he's not gonna notice. Yeah, right. I mean, I used to have a guy that that kind of happened like with uh parts for sculptures that I was building. So I would go to this place, and I I won't I won't call out who it is, but I would go to this place, and he used to basically, I'd be like, I need like um, I need like some bearings and some sprock, and I would get all this stuff, and you'd be like, Yeah, you come back in like uh half hour, meet me outside, but you know, um cash.
+
+[29:07] And then like he would give me these great discounts on like uh bearings and stuff. That's that's the way New York used to run. We were so much more like, you know, not like now. Yeah. It's like uh you need bearings?
+
+[29:19] I got a bearing guy. Yeah, I got a bearing guy. I got a guy that can fix that. But you know what? You're gonna want to bring some cash.
+
+[29:25] You know what I mean? And uh we're not gonna mention this. Um anyways. So uh let's get some of the questions I missed from last week, yeah? I'm gonna rip them out.
+
+[29:33] Pierre writes in, hey Dave, Nastasha and crew, and if you knew you were gonna be here, Phil, Pierre would have called you out as well. Thanks, Pierre. Uh thanks for all the great show so far. I'm just about ready to take the plunge and buy an immersion circulator from my home kitchen. Uh I don't even need to, I don't need to explain that anymore for our audience, right?
+
+[29:48] You know, they they cook things at a very accurate temperature, you know, most important, like culinary advance in the past, you know, couple hundred years, blah, blah, blah, blah. Uh one thing I haven't decided on yet is the packaging method. After reading your Sous vide, it seems that the simplest way to get started uh would be with a Ziploc freezer bags. You are correct, sir. Uh however, I'm not sure how I feel about going through that much plastic in the long run.
+
+[30:13] Are there any decent reusable options out there? I've heard of people using mason jars for smaller items, but that hardly sounds practical for things like steak, unless you want them to be jar stakes. You know what I mean? I'd notice I didn't say Stas has the don't say tube steak look on her face. Oh, yeah.
+
+[30:30] Yeah, you did have the look. I don't know whether that's what you're thinking. But that hardly sounds practical or desirable. Not just practical, not desirable for things like steak. The only other option I've come across so far is the and how do you pronounce that Lek U thing?
+
+[30:43] The Lek you, whatever, uh silicon bag. Uh reviewers weren't too thrilled about the seal and the size, though. Any thoughts? Uh thanks, Pierre. Yeah, there are no good answers to your question uh yet.
+
+[30:53] I mean, if you're gonna there'sn't just no good answers to your question yet. I mean, I think people are working on it. Uh I know people are working on it, uh, but no one's come up with it yet. I don't like the the the resealable silicone, that's just gross. That's it's just gross.
+
+[31:08] Like having reused like uh zippies before, which is what we call the ziplocks and the trade, we call them zippies, go get me zippy. Remember when you're buying the ziploc bags. Do not buy buy the freezer bags, the storage bags are uh weak in the technical sense of the term. They're weak. Uh and uh not just in the they are puny and don't do a good enough job.
+
+[31:26] I mean, they are physically weaker than the uh freezer bags. Do not buy the ones that have the double layer of film. They suck. Also, do not buy the ones with the little uh zippy-doodle thing across the top, that little zippy-doodle, that that that slot racing zippy-doodle across the top. That's for people that what can't seal a bag like a human being.
+
+[31:46] And they don't hold uh uh a seal as well. So stay away from all of those things. Uh and you know, you could try those those resealable silicone jaws, but they're also thicker, so it's gonna take a little bit longer to get your heat transfer through them, yada yada. The people are working, let me just say people are working on it. Like in the next six years, there will be.
+
+[32:03] Here's my prediction. My prediction is this. Uh, and maybe I can get Phil to say it. In the next six years there'll be a biodegradable sous e bag. In the next six years, there will be a biodegradable Su V bag.
+
+[32:17] There you go. And so while we're waiting, if I were you, I would just stick with the uh with the polyethylene uh zippies, and don't worry, we will get around to saving the world in the next six years, right? Yeah, all right. Uh okay. Let's get some more of these uh questions that I missed from before.
+
+[32:33] We get some short ones, so I'm making a good I always you know what sucks is when I miss the short ones because like I sit around yapping for everyone and then uh you know, whatever. Uh hello everyone. Uh this is from uh Mildred Cady in Albany, New York. Uh I like when people tell me where they're from in a thing. You know, don't you like that, Phil?
+
+[32:49] The number people are from. I like that. If only Anastasia would uh would put that in there for you. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Unless it's unless it's Lena who doesn't want to know that you're from Florida.
+
+[32:58] Although she loves people who like gluten-free products from Florida. Those are the those those are the good kind of Floridines. They're the good ones. Uh I've been enjoying the show. This is uh this is uh Mildred actually.
+
+[33:09] She she she didn't enjoy the show, she had a uh a different question. Um I think wait now I'm getting all confused okay. Okay, I'm a new listener, but I've been avidly progressing through the back catalog of my daily commute. Uh I already love the show. I've been spreading the good word to others, so thank you for doing what you do.
+
+[33:22] I love eggs. I didn't answer this question alright, did I? Okay. Uh I love eggs and eat them near every morning. Good call.
+
+[33:28] The Incredible. Edible egg. There you go. I have a Volrath Steelcoat X3, 7-inch nonstick pan. They're starting to get a buildup of materials that don't seem to come off with dish soap.
+
+[33:40] And oh, this is not this is not Mildred's question. Shaq. This is uh Michael's question. I get all confused. You know why people?
+
+[33:47] Because I'm stupid. Uh this is Michael's question. Um with soap and hot water. Do you know what I could use to get it nice and clean again and still retain its nonstick properties? Uh or could you recommend a better nonstick pan for eggs?
+
+[34:01] So the question is like, I guess for eggs. Uh do you even like nonstick pans, Michael? Uh P.S. I saw the patty melt video uh that I did recently, and all of the home kitchen. I don't have that kitchen anymore.
+
+[34:10] Styles like my new kitchen better. Uh and your zero compromise approach. Uh Stas definitely hates my zero compromise approach. Um okay. So the deal with nonstick pans is um they have uh a coating on them, and what you don't want to do is uh scratch the coating because that's that's the kind of what you don't want to do.
+
+[34:25] So uh I mean, quick and simple, like just go buy Scotch Bright pads. Uh let the pan soak for a little if you have deposits on it. Like certain things are gonna stick to a nonstick pan. So, for instance, like the the one thing that I have that is completely nonstick, and I I don't I have one regular nonstick pan, one. It was a scan pan, I've beaten the crap out of it, and it's useless now.
+
+[34:47] I use it only to cook things that I don't care about. Like, this is gonna sound bad. Like bacon. I don't really care how bacon cooks because I don't cook tilapi I don't cook tilapia at all. I cook that using my garbage can.
+
+[34:58] Like, that's the best way to cook tilapias with the garbage can. But the um the uh, you know, speaking of tilapia, uh I am going to be at uh Toron in Toronto tomorrow, uh doing the Toronto International Food and Film Festival or something like this. TIFF, not TIFF, the uh the graphics format, but TIF the Toronto International Food and Film Festival. And so like is this hilarious? Uh so the person who set it up that like they're like you could they're gonna ask you why you chose the movie.
+
+[35:24] I'm like I didn't chose you chose the movie for me. Don't you remember? But no anytime you do something you have to pretend that you chose the movie. So the movie I'm doing is Soil and green. And so what I'm just gonna say is that tilapia is like right it's one of the soilants.
+
+[35:35] You know how there's multiple soilants there's like soil and red, soylent you know soylent whatever and soylent green. It's green by the way I don't want to spoil the movie for you. It's made of people it's the only one that's made of people apparently well who knows we don't ever figure out what the other soylants were made of. Tuesday is a Soil and green day by the way in the movie. Like you get the different soylents on different days.
+
+[35:54] Oh okay anyways. It's like a six minute warning. Oh Jesus uh tilapia right up there. Um right up there. Uh okay uh so uh but the one thing that you do need to have non stick is your waffle iron.
+
+[36:08] So like I have a boatload of cast iron sizzles that I use sizzles like uh you know little sizzle pans that I've used for you know well over a decade and right now like I use them exclusively for eggs but they've been uh you know I seasoned them well the first time around and I use them constantly and I keep them in good shape and so you know they're amazing for eggs. Uh but you know your waffle iron uh the amount of time it takes to get it properly seasoned so that a waffle actually releases from them is longer than I have patience to do. And so uh I've tried using cast iron waffle irons and they suck this by the way do you know that's why waffles have such a high fat content in the old recipes, is they were built for uh old school cast iron waffle irons, and so they need uh a uh an abundance of oil to release properly. And a modern waffle recipe doesn't need qu nearly as much uh oil in it just for organolectic properties to get it to uh to work. And so you can, you know, that's one little known fact about waffle recipes.
+
+[37:07] I don't cut the fat down because I don't care. Uh but anyway, so like uh but those like if you make the mistake of putting blueberries in I mean, not taste mistake, they're delicious. Although he's not gonna like waffles, right? No, I do. Uh whoa.
+
+[37:19] Uh put blueberries in your waffles, they will burn onto the non stick because the sugar will stick and burn onto the nonstick, and that is a business to get off of that uh thing. So I I feel where you're coming from. So, what you want to do is like soak it in water a little bit, buy the specific Scotchbrite pads that are made uh to be non-stick. I mean, sorry, to be non-scuffing. They make specific non-scratch scotch bright pads that are made for non-stick pans.
+
+[37:43] Don't believe anything anyone says about it's okay to use metal utensils. The particular one you have has steel uh particles mixed in with the non-uh stick coating, and the idea being that when you're scraping a spatula across it, it won't get damaged as much because the steel on steel will resist, and so that's why they do that. They also have one that's one level above yours, where instead of steel particles they use slightly more expensive ceramic particles, and everyone now is moving away from Teflon so that uh because because apparently it can release uh PFOA or periphlo perfluorooctinoic acid, and people are worried it's gonna cause cancer. So people are moving away voluntarily from using Teflon in their pants. Hopefully, by 2015, they're supposed to have uh people are supposed to voluntarily have taken it away.
+
+[38:24] But anyway, uh there you have it. Is that a good good answer? Semi-good answer. Okay. Uh now on to Mildred's actual question.
+
+[38:31] Uh I'm gonna have to do it quickly. I've been enjoying the show and working through the back episodes uh because I've been enjoying it so much. I'm writing because I have a dilemma. I'm currently living with my two best friends, conveniently they're married to each other. He's half Korean and cooks like it, and she's allergic to soy sauce and other forms of soy.
+
+[38:45] Uh soy. By the way, soy lent, supposed to be a mixture. I I heard of soy and lentils. Soy lent. Uh not soy that you eat in Lenten times.
+
+[38:55] Um he has a Korean BBQ sauce marin uh uh marinade. That's three-quarters soy sauce that we all miss him being able to make. So I'm looking for a soy sauce substitute that can be made in bulk. She doesn't like fish sauce, which is one of the more common Asian umami sources after sources after soy sauce. She barely tolerates Worcester sauce because she can tell it has anchovies in it.
+
+[39:15] Yes, you can. One thing you could do is get wheature sauce, spin it in a centerfuge, and the anchovy drops to the bottom. But you need a centrifuge for that. Uh we tried Vegemite slash marmeat since it's another fermented grain condiment, but it's so thick we've had problems thinning it enough for a sauce because uh we lose the umami tone. Do you have any suggestions?
+
+[39:31] Or did I already kill the other options? Thanks for your time and keep it uh awesome. Mildred Katie from Albany, New York. Okay, here's some quick things because Jack's gonna rip us off the air in a couple minutes. Uh if you have money to spend, uh coconut aminos, which you can get in uh the Whole Foods are pretty good, and they're like some sort of like fermented coconut product, and they don't contain soy.
+
+[39:51] Uh I believe Bragg's uh liquid aminos do contain soy, so you have to stay away from those. Um another thing is make some of the old school fermented mushroom uh sauces. So if you go look up any of the old uh like like catch ketchup like recipes, like from uh from like George Washington Times, uh you they have like mushroom ketchup recipes that uh you can look up, and those um can be fermented, and you can and you can get them to you because mushrooms already have a lot of umami, so then when they when they're cooked and then uh allowed to steep and do their own business, you know, you you you can get that much out of it. You could you could also use them as a fermentation source to make your own Worcestershire sauce as opposed to something like anchovies and fish look Worcestershire sauce is the modern equivalent of a fish sauce for British tastes they also have a really other one could called uh the gentleman's relish pipperums whatever it's like it's like anchovies and butter and pepper mixed up in a little tin. Can say gentleman's relish for me please it's a gentleman's relish.
+
+[40:50] Oh yeah but I let my wife have it anyway stuff's good uh so uh try one of those things and you know anything that has some form of substrate uh with proteins that uh breaks down over long fermentation period you're gonna be able to get those nice uh umami things but think mushrooms uh think coconut aminos uh and uh you know work with it and those things are a good although you know what you gotta get is is it I forget is it is it the it's the wife that doesn't like the the that can't have the soy and doesn't like the fish right I think so yeah I would just do like a little bit of fish sauce every day and just work her up to that sucker because fish sauce is yo delicious and you can also look for this uh Japanese fish sauce called ishiri the ones made not don't tell her made exclusively of squid guts that stuff tastes like liquid meat oh another thing people sorry not to blast your ears out uh another thing uh people do is they make soy substitutes by using concentrated uh broth like bullion if it doesn't taste the same but you know uh what they're really doing there is jacking the MSG so it's like another thing you could do just saying is add something like like that has a little bit of that protein amino action and then a little bit of the MSG. But Nastasha is one of the people that think she's allergic to MSG. By the way, you know, I have a capsule uh remember we yeah, we got the cap we got this let's write in if you give a crap about this. But they have the we we bought a gelatin capsule packer or or vegetarian, you don't have to be gelatin' uh for the event we did in uh at UCLA. And uh we were thinking of actually doing a double blind radio, like male uh double blind placebo controlled uh MSG study with our own packed gel caps where like I would pack them with numbers on the packets, Stas would mail them out to people, and then we get reports back on the radio.
+
+[42:33] And I know it's not scientific because I can't control whether you guys are liars or not, but I feel that our radio listeners are good people and they won't cheat, right? And then we could have like a uh it's not legal also because I'm not allowed to do research, but if we're just having fun, then we're just having fun. Do we have the insurance for this, Shaq? Uh yeah, sure. Yeah, anyway.
+
+[42:52] So what I'm saying is is like if if if there's if there's interest in this, we could run a uh controlled uh thingamajig. Right? Yeah, yeah. Yeah, yeah. I don't have three minutes?
+
+[43:00] No. I don't have three minutes. All right, so let me just go over the list of questions that I didn't answer and we'll have to answer next time. Oh, jeebus. No, jeebus.
+
+[43:09] This is how we're gonna end the shows from now on. Simon, Simon, I s I swear on several stacks of Bibles. Your question on um your question on carbonation will be the very Simon from the UK. Well I might be there in November for the book. Okay.
+
+[43:23] I don't know. Uh will be the very first question that I'm gonna answer uh next time. Nastash hopefully will remember to tell me that. And we had uh two qu uh a couple questions we didn't get to today. One on shad berries.
+
+[43:34] They had a question on mulberries. Uh listen, the trick with mulberries is uh I'll say really quickly, I'll do it more in in depth next time. I'm gonna get to the ice cream question uh that that's also here that I didn't get to. Uh but on mulberries, uh when you're looking for mulberries, uh the problem with mulberries is the black mulberry and the white mulberry hybridize very readily between each other. So a lot of the mulberries you see on the street here are combinations of the two different mulberry varieties because they so readily hybridize, and the taste is radically different from tree to tree.
+
+[43:59] Sometimes even within a tree itself, you'll get tasteless mulberries and mulberries that have a good acid balance. So what you need to do is wander around the city, and stars and I did this one year. Uh we wander around the city, and whenever you see a mulberry tree, taste one. If you like that mulberry tree, go back there next year. Get everything you can, and then go back uh next year.
+
+[44:16] But you cannot judge a mulberry tree by the first even five trees that you taste. And that is Phil Cooking Issues with Dave Arnold. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archive programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio.
+
+[44:44] You can email us questions anytime at info at heritage radio network dot org. Heritage Radio Network is a 501 C3 nonprofit. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by S. Wallace Edwards and Sons, a third generation Cure Masters producing the country's best dry cured and aged hams, bacon, and sausage. For more information, visit SurreyFarms.com. I'm Greg Blaze, host of Cutting the Curd. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwood, Brooklyn.
+
+[0:19] If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Kicking Issues, coming to your live reverse pizzeria in Bushwick, Brooklyn on the Heritage Radio Network, mostly every Tuesday. We missed last Tuesday because I was teaching oh, from 12 to 12 uh 45 ish. Anyways, calling your questions to 718-497-2128.
+
+[0:55] That's 718-497-2128. So Stas, while I'm calling up today's questions, why don't you tell them what we did last week? We did uh we you taught a uh class on carbonation with Shibis uh at the Nomad Hotel. Which is a nice place. Yeah.
+
+[1:10] And Stas does what she does best in these uh situations, which is sit in the background and just shake her head disapprovingly the entire time. She's like, listen, I've heard she doesn't talk like this. She's right next to me. You can hear her talk. Well, I've seen you do this demo eight thousand freaking times, and everything new you had is wrong.
+
+[1:29] Right? Is that pretty much what that's how you feel, right? No. It's the same anecdotes that you talk about. Like what?
+
+[1:35] Oh, like just your trials with carbon. Like, well, I have to tell them specifically, but I just on the radio, I try not to repeat. But like if you have a specific thing to say that illustrates how not to carbonate, right, then uh what's the matter? You got a bug bite or something? Right now.
+
+[1:53] Like jump down. What's up? Heritage Radio Network. I don't believe you. Uh it is true.
+
+[1:59] There have any of you been to Nogales, Mexico? Like, it's like we're a warehouse for Nogales, Mexico blankets right now. Like Mustaza City. Nogales is uh unfortunately, no offense to Galas, but it's the only place in Mexico that I've ever been, and I'm trying to rectify that as soon as possible. Go to what I would consider real Mexico.
+
+[2:18] It's like, what's fake, what's fake US? Like, if someone were to come to the US and they're like, this is all they saw, you'd say, Yeah, you haven't been to the US. What would that be? Hmm. Newark?
+
+[2:27] No offense to Newark. Like, what if you landed in what if you flew into Newark Airport? What if you flew into Newark Airport? No offense, Newark. You know, I used to live in Jersey holding on whatever.
+
+[2:37] But what if you landed in Newark Airport and we're like, okay, I'm here. And it's got the closest hotel to Newark Airport, and that's where you stayed the whole time. Sounds like a fun trip. Jack, tell Dave about what email you got today. All right, what'd you do?
+
+[2:49] Oh, yeah, I got a promotional email from like Orbits or something. And it was like, hey Jack, pack your bags. You're going to New York. Oh, geez. Hey, here's a here's an interesting fact that may or may not be true about packing your bags.
+
+[3:02] Uh I see that that is what we call bad uh cookie editing, bad kind of data sifting to try and give you a trip. Tell me about it. All expenses paid uh on the L train, huh? Pig who $2.50. A little bit of a discount if you have the Metro card.
+
+[3:16] Anyways. So uh you familiar with the private browsing thing? I'm sure you are, Stas, because your whole family's paranoid about being tracked. No, I don't know. So on your Mac and other things, you can hit a button that basically says that your browser is no longer going to store cookies.
+
+[3:31] And like, you know, nine out of ten people, they use it for the porn, so they their porn can't be tracked. Right, Jack, you're familiar with this, right? Yeah, yes. Not the porn necessarily. Well, I mean, not necessarily.
+
+[3:42] The incognito window. Yeah, so I don't know if this is true. I'd like to hear something from any uh any SEO folks out there. But uh apparently, if you uh go to look up uh an airplane flight to Mazadlan or Acapulco, something that's talking about if you go look up a flight to there, and you're like, nah, I'm not gonna buy it right now, and you go back like five days later to look at it. On no, no, no, on your regular computer, yeah, the prices are higher.
+
+[4:06] Absolutely. Yeah, yeah, no, I haven't seen that. It's because they're tracking you and they know you want to go there. Yeah, yeah, yeah. So if you log in with private browsers, browsers for money, browse what you want me to browse, then they give you the old price again.
+
+[4:17] That's crazy. That's disappointing about the world. That's so used car salesman. No offense to people who sell used cars. There's many honest ones.
+
+[4:25] But it's like, you know, why are you shafting me? Because see, this is why everyone's like, I'm gonna keep looking at the prices because they think that that's like a good thing to do. And they're looking at you looking at the prices and hosing you as a result. So we got a cool uh auction here to uh help benefit uh Heritage Radio Network. This programming uh is free for you, but not free for us to produce.
+
+[4:46] So we have uh bid to win a day at the Modernist Cuisine Cooking Lab in Bellevue, Washington, with Nathan Mirvold and the Modernist Cooking Crew, one of the most visionary food technology and business leaders of our time. This is a once in a lifetime chance to experiment in the kitchen yourself with Nathan Mirvold and his team of chefs, chemists, physicists, and machinists. Peruse new cooking innovations, ask all of your burning questions and questions about burning, and bring home a signed copy of the photography of modernist cuisine. Place your bid on this package on charitybuzz.com now. Let's get to some of last week's questions.
+
+[5:20] Brian Garrick wrote in about shad berries and ice cream. Hello, cooking it's use team. Hope you're staying cool and dry. I am not. I am a big pile of sweat, although I was telling styles.
+
+[5:28] I made it in re I mean late as usual, but record time for me. I made it. You ready for this? Not door to door, computer to radio. Computer to radio in 15 minutes from my house.
+
+[5:39] So you left at 11 55. 53. Yeah, yeah. How'd you do that? Uh well, I've I I feel like I'm I'm melting like the wicked witch of the west right now.
+
+[5:51] But I just I just like I made sure that I was putting just as much power into the upstroke because I got straps on my on my bike uh as I did into my downstroke, and it's like I felt like people on the bridge were standing still because I was so anxious because of how late I was. But you know, I was I I've been cooking all morning. I was cooking all morning and doing the radio questions. Wow. So give me a give me a break.
+
+[6:10] Give me a freaking break. Made a lot of cocktails this morning. Not to drink. Not to drink. I wasn't drinking.
+
+[6:16] I was like, ah no, but I made uh some of the cocktails from uh the book actually for this thing I have to do tonight. And uh did you ever have the vermouth in the freezer cocktails, the vermouth blender cocktails? So I'll give you the basic outline. You have to buy my book for the exact recipe. Ooh, no, um so you take I've it's called ebony and ivory, and I got I got a Dolan Blanc from Mouth, which is you know the semi-sweet white Dolan, and uh I mix that one with a little bit of vodka up to proof, water, and lime juice, pinch of salt, right?
+
+[6:47] And you get the alcohol level right so that when you put it in zip, just like the Italiano styliana, when you put it in a Ziploc bag and throw it in the freezer, it turns into like a slushy drink in your freezer without you having to do anything. And then the other one, that's that would be the ivory. And the ebony is carpano, a little bit of vodka and uh water, pinch of salt. And you'd say you serve them mix it. No, no, no, you serve them side by side in perfect harmony.
+
+[7:08] Yeah. Paul and uh what's his name? What do you mean, what's his name? I can't remember. Stevie Freakin' Wonder.
+
+[7:14] Oh, yeah. I'm not gonna say I'm not gonna get into it. Stevie Wonder, one of the Jack, one of the greatest modern musicians like that ever, right? I mean Stevie? Yeah.
+
+[7:23] Oh yeah. I mean, you know what people get all pissed because uh, you know, kind of like the jungle fever and plus era of his life. But if anyone that I'd ever met had come up with any one album when he was in his prime, any one of those songs, like Boogie on Reggae Woman, if you come up, if it's almost like you were one hit wonder, you're like, yeah, but it was it was Boogie on Reggae Woman. You'd be like, alright. You know what I mean?
+
+[7:48] Because that's that stuff's just so awesome. Anyway, Brian Garrick, Shadberies. Uh oh, yeah. God, I go on tangent. Do you want to take a caller first before jumping in there?
+
+[7:57] Sure, sure, okay. Callers on the line. Caller, you're on the air. Hi, Dave. Uh, thanks for taking my call.
+
+[8:02] This is Garrett in uh San Diego. Oh, nice, what's up? Um, I was just um I was thinking the other day, I am a fan of cottage cheese. I like cottage cheese, and I also like goat cheese, and I looked to see if they make a goat cottage cheese, and I couldn't find anything. Um have you ever heard of this?
+
+[8:21] Or is it even possible? And what are the differences between, I guess, goat milk and whatever they use in cottage cheese? I guess cow, maybe sheep's milk? Huh. You know, I like I mean, I eat a lot of cheese, but I'm not really an expert uh on the manufacture of cheese.
+
+[8:39] Um, you know, my guess is that you could probably do a mixed milk one, because there's a lot of mixed milk cheeses that uh have um curds that work like uh curds that work somewhat like cow's milk. Uh but I mean, just my experience with fresh goat cheese is that it's got a very different kind of paste and that you have to age it for a long time. But I could be totally wrong. You know what I mean? But I would guess that if you fortified it with cow milk, you could get it to work.
+
+[9:11] This is something that you know what we should what we should do, honestly. Jack, are you listening to this? I'm here. We should get can can you post a question in to uh uh cutting the curd? Absolutely.
+
+[9:23] And then we'll we'll we'll get their response and then we'll read it back uh on the on the air next week. That'd be awesome. You want to do that? Yep. You alright with that?
+
+[9:30] Yeah. Yeah? Yeah, yeah. That'd be great. I'd really appreciate it.
+
+[9:33] I mean, you're right. The only fresh goat cheese that I know of has a much more chalky texture. Not really cottage cheeky, but so what I mean, like if you had uh like all the delicious mixed milk cheeses from uh Italy. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[9:48] So those mixed milk cheeses can have like textures that are in between any of those, you know. And I've had very aged uh goat cheeses that have so only goat that have a fairly solid texture. But I've never had a fresh goat cheese that has a cottage cheesy like texture. And so I don't know whether it's possible. But what we'll do is I'll do a little bit of research.
+
+[10:07] Well, Jack's gonna get a response this week. He's gonna email it to me, and then uh uh once I get that I'll do a little separate research on the all the technical literature that I uh steal access to, and then we'll reconvene next week with the answer. Sound good? Yeah, right on, that'd be great. And um, if you have a quick second, I have one more non food related question.
+
+[10:25] Uh oh, what do you got? Uh what what kind of bike do you ride? Oh, okay. So uh I used uh I ride here's the thing. Uh in New York City, you know, we have to have those giant kryptonite chain locks or your bike gets stolen.
+
+[10:39] Oh, yeah. So the lock weighs roughly what my bike would weigh, right? Plus, you have to carry the the keys, and then you have to sit there and you have to string the the chain through all of the stuff. So I made a decision uh long time ago that I was not gonna ever lock my bike ever. And so the answer therefore is that you need to get a folding bike.
+
+[11:02] So I bought a uh a folding bike called a down tube, which is really cheap because you I'm a cheap bastard, stuff, right or wrong. Oh right. So cheap. Uh I'm a cheap bass. So I bought this down tube, it got fairly good ratings.
+
+[11:12] Uh and uh I proceeded because I would throw it in my closet when I got home to uh completely uh destroy the derailler every day. So I was throwing my chain like you know, three times a day, and I got so irritated that uh you know, I was like, crap on this. I'm ripping all of the gears out, and uh I'm gonna make it into a single speed. But then I was like, you know what, the hell with it, because it's gonna be crazy anyway. I'm just gonna go full stupid, and I made it uh fixed fixed gear folder on 20s.
+
+[11:42] It's riding 20 inch wheels, which by the way, people don't look into the physics of it. In a New York City ride, if you're doing a lot of stop and starts, the 20s are as fast or faster than unless you're gonna buy really high-end uh full size jobs. Anywho, so I was like, ah, I'll turn it into a fix, because why not? Because I can I can do it. And then I got kind of addicted to the fixing, but I leave the brakes on because I'm not one of those guys, right?
+
+[12:03] The brakes and uh and then uh the problem with the down tube is is that the the uh you know the steering is so high up on a cantilever that because you're fixed you start really, really, really hard. And so I snapped on going down to Williamsburg, I snapped the uh steering off and then had to negotiate going down the Williamsburg Bridge with it with a sta snapped uh uh column there. And so and then I so I was like, uh I got another one of that because it was under warranty, snapped it again. So I was like, crap on this, and now I ride uh Azuter Swift, which has a guaranteed for life frame. Uh I used to ride really thin Schwabies uh on the on the I ride regular, like they're custom wheels, but they're not real, they're like regular velo rims, and then with uh I ride Schwabi Schwabby uh uh big apples just because uh I used to ride thin and I was a little bit faster, but you know, I've seen too many people wipe out on those thin guys if any if any crap gets on the road that I was like the hell with this, especially with the with the 20s.
+
+[13:00] It's really easy to wipe out, so crap on I got wider things. But it's still, and I have those I have that weird butt-friendly seat. You know what I mean? Oh, yeah, okay. Yeah, anyway.
+
+[13:09] So that's what I it's still it's modified. It's modified beyond being fake, whatever, but yeah, that's what I read. Cool. Thanks very much. I uh I figured you'd have a pretty interesting bike.
+
+[13:19] Yeah, it's weird. I mean, if the bike the bike snob would have a field day with my bike, I'm sure, but uh if any of you guys read the the bike's not, but anyway. All right, thanks again for taking my call. All right, thanks. All right, so back to uh Brian uh uh and shad berries and ice cream.
+
+[13:32] Okay. Uh noticed that you tweeted a recipe for a drink special that contains shad berries. Uh it's fruit picking time around here, and I've never had one. Where can I find them and how can I identify them? Uh also there are tons of mulberries around New York that are ripe for picking.
+
+[13:43] It's a little old. The shad berries are gone now next year though. I'm also I think they're the same as June berries, but I'm not sure if I think people might call service berries something else. Look, they're on a tree. I can recognize it when I see it, but it's hard to describe.
+
+[13:54] Uh once you identify it, you're gonna identify it uh forever. So they're purple, they're go red to dark purple when they're ripe, berries. They're on a tree that bears alternate leaves, of course, um you know, nine tenths of trees, other than you know, maples, ashes, and uh you know a couple others, uh dogwoods, uh are alternate, so yeah, that's not much of a help. It's the finely serrated kind of elliptical leaves, also not very much of a help. If you look at the berries, they look a little bit like a blueberry, and they have that I guess it's a calyx thing coming off of it.
+
+[14:25] But if you just look up in a couple of books, um you can see the variance of it. And once you see it, you like once you see it once, you like you get it, and that's it. Uh and there's uh a patch of them on Eldritch Street near the uh the short like housing buildings there uh in the in the lower east side, if you want to see them, but the berries are all gone on those anyway. And they have an astringent uh kind of uh acidic taste that I like because if you mash them and let them sit on the skins a while before you spin them off, they pull up uh a little bit more tannin than uh like a blueberry, a little bit more musky, but not probably as tannic as cassis. Uh they're good.
+
+[15:01] I like them. You've had them before, right, Sass. Anyway, uh so mulberries. Um any favorite spot to get some mulberries, any good techniques for picking them. They're so fragile.
+
+[15:09] Yeah, yeah, yeah. Uh a technique is to get someone else to pick them for you or wear gloves, but don't, because that looks dumb. If you're walking around the city picking berries with gloves, what do you think about it? If you see it, if you see a dude picking berries with gloves in the street, what do you say about it? I don't know.
+
+[15:20] I've never seen it. I don't know. I I mean, I don't know. We'd be like, what the hell is that guy doing, right? Yeah.
+
+[15:26] I don't know. Skip it. Well, it does stay in the hell out of you. Um, I spotted a few peach trees uh and sour cherry trees. I would I can't have the sour cherries.
+
+[15:35] I'm eager to pick them too. What's the best way? I don't have a fruit picker. Any way to make when it works. That's an interesting question.
+
+[15:40] Probably for things like uh peaches, you could you know get like uh like they they make fruit picking basket things, but then you have to fix it to the end of an extendable pole. That I wouldn't mind looking like a lunatic around. Hey, whoa, whoa what are you doing up there? Oh, I'm picking peaches. What's wrong with you?
+
+[15:55] Uh the mulberries, uh, a good place to pick them that's pleasant to go to is uh uh in the park that's off of 158th Street and Riverside Drive. You go over to the river on the west side and you walk up, and there's a bunch of they have a sh boatload. I was about to curse, they have a boatload of uh of Juneberry Shabberries there, but then they also have a bunch of mulberry trees up in that area, and there's a bunch just scattered around the city. There's some in the parks that are up Allen Street, uh, or is that Christie? You know what I'm talking about?
+
+[16:20] It's Christy. It's Christy Forsyth, right? Uh and we found a good one near what restaurant we always used to go to where we found one where we used to eat with Maria. There was a really nice one there. Oh, yeah.
+
+[16:31] Can't remember. Anyway, my recommendation, like I said before, is to pick, and I'm too stupid to do this, but you gotta have a long view on this. So pick a couple of berries this year and then mark the tree. Like take a picture and geotag it or whatever. Like, oh, this is the good one, and then you can go back and get it the next year because uh they I mentioned this uh last week when I started talking about your question.
+
+[16:53] Uh that mulberry trees are extremely variable in fruit quality. Uh so anyway, so that's what that's what that's what I would say. Ice cream question. Jenny Bauer from Jenny Splendid Ice Creams uses uh a milk filtration technique. Uh, and then this is a paraphrasing of it.
+
+[17:08] Uh start with raw, grass-fed, uh, grass pasture milk from the cows right at the dairy. Milk comes in and we separate it uh into a center uh in a center fusion to heavy cream and skim milk, as per usual. The cream goes into a tank. Uh when I go to the dairy, that's the first place I go. I take a ladle and sip it, foamy, like slightly whipped cream.
+
+[17:25] Okay. Uh the skim milk then goes through a nanofiltration system, uh, which is uh this is uh quoting I think Jenny Bauer in Food and Wine. Food and wine did uh uh an article called Lessons from Jenny Brittenbauer, and this is the quoted from that. Uh and this is really cool where old technique makes modern. The filtration system runs the milk across a membrane multiple times to remove about 60% of the water.
+
+[17:46] Water's not good in ice cream because it makes it icy. Removing water also concentrates the proteins to give it more body and texture. We're working with two proteins, the casein uh and whey proteins, which gives great smoothness. So then we take the concentrated skim milk containing proteins and uh lactose and mix it back with the cream to give us a base of about 15% butter fat, perfect for ice cream. It's still raw and not been cooked, so then we add sugar and batch pasteurize at 175 degrees.
+
+[18:09] Uh ultra pasteurized milks are heated to 300 plus, and they shoot them through a tiny pipe, which strips a lot of the flavor out. And uh anyway, batch pasteurization gives the milk a nice cooked custody flavor and bonds the water to the proteins, butter, fat, and sugar. I don't know if I believe that, but I don't know. I don't know exactly what she means by it. Uh then we shoot it through a homogenizer while it's still hot.
+
+[18:26] So if the butter fat is melted and looser, we homogenize it to make the butter fat molecules. I think she means like you know, the my cells the same size as all the other ones. Uh and if we didn't, all those big butter fat molecules would find each other and make butter. The homogenizer shoots it through, uh blah, blah, blah, blah, yaky schmackity. Uh yakity yakkity yakity.
+
+[18:44] Um, and then she she spins it and then they pack it all by hand thousands a week. And she says there are machines for packing, but they uh require a much thinner ice cream, so it never freezes up the same way that ours do. Okay, so now back to the question part of it. This is not the quote anymore. She recommends that at home we should boil the milk for ice cream base for four minutes.
+
+[19:02] The boiling is key. It evaporates excess water like our nanofiltration system, like pasteurization, it bonds uh sugar and fat to the water and it denatures the whey proteins to make them smooth. Uh then you add uh cream cheese to mimic the thickening of homogenization to bulk up the body, and then they Food and Wine did an article where they tested it. Uh, isn't it just easier to add, and then your question is isn't it easier to add powdered milk to the base? What's in cream cheese other than stabilizers?
+
+[19:25] The powdered milk doesn't have well you know, other than stabilizers, there's a boat ton of stabilizers in cream cheese. That's why it's so smooth. If we've ever had non-stabilized cream cheese, it's really kind of grainy, which I actually like. The best uh cream cheese that I've ever purchased is uh bought at Russ and Daughters, and it's completely non-stabilized cream cheese, so it only lasts a couple of days, and it's kind of grainy, but it has such kind of amazing texture. No offense to Philly.
+
+[19:47] In fact, Booker, Stas, you appreciate this. Booker hates the high-quality cream cheese, and he's like, I prefer Philadelphia brand cream cheese. And then so he makes me buy the most expensive salmons like in the world, fundamentally, at Russ and Daughters. And and and wants the the you know, the uh the mass market cream cheese. That's a nice way of saying it, right?
+
+[20:08] Mass market. Hey, look, I eat Philly, anyways. Um isn't it easier to add powdered milk to the base? Do you have any thoughts on the science behind what's going on here? Well, I mean, you know, what I typically do is add just add more cream to the milk to get the butterfather up, and then yes, I add powdered milk to the base.
+
+[20:29] A lot of powdered milk doesn't taste very good, so I can see boiling down your milk to remove some of the water, but and then but you're still adding less cream. Look, I would spend more time worrying about the quality of the cream that you use. Nine tenths of the cream that you buy in the supermarket is um uh you know ultra-pasteurized because that it's sitting around for a long time and they want it to last forever. So, like if you're sourcing like a super nice cream that hasn't been completely whacked out of whack by the uh, you know, by the by the homogenation by boiling it. I mean, I think it's a little interesting that she's into the raw thing and the other thing and a low temperature pasteurizing, but then you're boiling out your your your milk to get, well, at least the skin portion of it to get I mean, in other words, I don't I don't know about this.
+
+[21:11] I don't I mean, uh but the thing is, I'm sure they tested it, it's sure it's delicious. And the cream cheese is gonna add some acidity to which I don't know that you necessarily want. Like when I'm doing it, I uh I would add uh I mean remember also she's doing Philly style, so she's not adding any eggs to it. I almost always make egg style. When I make Philly style, I add stabilizers to it.
+
+[21:29] Uh like I used to use flavor-free guar. Uh you could also use locust bean gum. Uh gel-an makes a super duper awesome stabilizer because it's like hyper creamy and in small amounts, like a fluid gel. It's ridiculous. Uh and then you can also light it on fire.
+
+[21:46] Um don't add guar and gel and because then it gets stretchy like selept on derma. Um so anyway, I add stabilizers. I just up my cream component, and if I want to bulk out the proteins more, I add powder, but it is true that some powders don't taste good. Right? Hmm.
+
+[22:00] Is that a good answer? I've never had her ice cream, but all of the little doodads in the Yelp for I think she's Ohio or something, all the little doodads are like awesome, best, awesome, best. I don't know. We've got another collar. Color, you're on the air.
+
+[22:14] Hello, Dave. Um, so uh my name's Anthony. I'm from DC. Um I've been working on a fish sausage uh for the fish shop that I work for. Mm-hmm.
+
+[22:25] Uh we're looking to make a basically a sausage with the texture and the snap of a hot dog, but emulsified. Um our first attempt was just a uh you know, traditional moussoline that was too soft. Yeah. Uh so we made a couple batches, um, and we're using the myths of like probably 50, 50% white fish, and then the rest of scallop and uh shrimp. Yep.
+
+[22:51] Um puree and fruit processor. Uh I've tried egg whites, uh gelatin, um, uh milk powder and tapioca starch, so I have different variations of those. Uh tapioca starch, and I'm assuming potato starch, anything else would be it's very pasty and starchy tasting that was almost inedible. Um I wanted to give your thoughts on what you might use to give it a little bit more of that uh firmness, that kind of bite to it. All right, cool.
+
+[23:23] You're packing them into lamb casings? Um right now we've just been packing them. Um that's the plan. It's gonna be lamb casings, but right now we've just been wrapping them in plastic and poaching them off to try it out. You're obviously gonna get more snap in the lamb casing, but you're not getting the texture you want out of it.
+
+[23:40] You want more of the texture of a traditional uh emulsified sausage. And you know, most seafood sausages have that very light kind of almost dumpling like texture to them. Stas, by the way, I don't know if I mentioned this on air, whether this came up on air, did it? She hates seafood sausage. Can you believe it?
+
+[23:56] Can you believe this lady? Anyways, so uh uh very simple thing for you. Now here's the deal. You're gonna be able to get anything in between where you are right now and surimi just by using meat glue. I mean, I wouldn't go all the way to Curimi if I was you, but you know, you're gonna be able to get anything in between.
+
+[24:13] Now, meat glue is gonna bind the proteins together. And I have myself made uh like bound uh sausages. Uh I think I've done them with n with seafood, but I've done definitely done them before where they're like ping pong balls. So you can definitely go over. So you're never ever gonna want to go over one percent of meat glue.
+
+[24:34] Don't but don't even start near that high. And also, uh the how much the meat glue is going to make it into a ping pong ball is gonna be dependent on how much salt is present and then how much uh you know how much food processing or grinding you get after you put the meat glue in. And remember, you have to pump the uh sausages out within after you add the meat glue within about five to ten minutes because it's going to start setting up. So I would start with somewhere like a quarter percent, and I would wait, I would take it to taste to get it just where you want, and then I would at the last minute blitz in a one quarter of one percent of uh Activa RM, and then which you can get at modernistpantry.com, and then uh I would you know blend that in and then pipe it right away or just roll it in plastic for your tests, and then uh, you know, if you want to do it, you can you can poach them off at 55 uh Celsius to do a quick set on them so that you don't have to wait forever in a day, and then you can do your regular cook off wherever you were, you know, at whatever you want, or you can let it sit in the fridge for four hours to overnight to set up, and then you should be able to get a judge. It will remember though, if you're gonna hold these things overnight, 70 to 80 percent of the texture will develop over that four hour period, but then it's gonna get a little springier overnight as it continues to bond if it's sitting in your fridge without getting touched.
+
+[26:02] So our our game plan is to pre-poach them. So we're using um we only sell, you know, fish that's been fileted for a couple of days, maybe. So we're using the sweats and the fillets that we haven't sold. Um, and they're still perfectly edible, but they don't look you know the fresh that's possible. So we're pre-poaching them uh so we can sell without um you know without worrying about the customer taking them out the next day and you know those turns after a day or two rather than sure you know four days.
+
+[26:35] Um once you poet once you poach it, the the enzyme's gonna get deactivated, it's not gonna get any stiffer. So if you're gonna if you know you're gonna poach them off, then I recommend uh I recommend like like doing a uh uh an initial poach off, like if you're gonna do lamb casing size, an initial poach off at like fifty-five Celsius for like for like ten minutes and uh you know, ten, fifteen minutes, that should set it, and then you can put them in whatever temperature you want to cook them to. Cook them, you know, whatever you're gonna do to you know do the bacteria kill step and then uh take them out and you're ready to rock and roll. And then the good thing about that is you can run through a couple of cycles with the meat glue to figure out how much you want to add. Gotcha.
+
+[27:20] And I could probably also time it so that I get just the right amount of set on the meat glue to texture that we want, correct? To wait, I say that last part of that sentence again. The right amount of set to do what we have to time just time out when we poach them or when we do the 55 Celsius uh water bath to the tester that we want. So where it's like two hours or three or four hours, we can almost fine-tune it to test it, correct? Yeah, you yes, but the f the 55 sets it.
+
+[27:49] Like the like the enzyme is still working, so you don't have to wait even like you can wait like 15 minutes or 10 and set it at a 55 degree bath. That's how Wiley used to make his shrimp noodles. Or I guess still does make his shrimp noodles. Uh I mean you could go a little lower, like fifty, fifty-two, fifty-three. If you're gonna cook it right away, you know, you could even do fifty, and that'll set it right away.
+
+[28:12] But I usually do fifty-five because it's a nice safe number um you know and you're not growing any bacteria in the bath itself so uh I usually do 55. But then you don't you don't have to wait at all. So what you then is you you make them you you stuff them you poach them off and then you know you're you're good. And then I would just base the amount of meat glue based on that. Gotcha and um I was one other thought I had on it was that the protein you know the protein uh percentage in fish is a lot lower than meat wood um adding uh a protein powder like uh soy protein uh isolate would that help maybe give a firmer texture as well or and is that just gonna be a waste of time.
+
+[28:52] Uh with the meat glue I wouldn't it already has casein in it which is helper and if you if you have customers that don't want the casein you can get one without casein. And it but rem fish remember how soluble like fish uh think of how sticky fish gets yeah because like a lot of the proteins are actually soluble so once you add meat glue to it sucker like that's what the like the the fact that the protein comes out is why we do uh a brine step before you're gonna do low temp otherwise you get that white albumin bloom on the outside which looks nasty. So I don't think you're gonna have a problem with uh I don't think you're gonna have a problem with the um with the meat glue on its own rather than having to add like a separate thing because that's just another thing and then you know the meat glue is in such small percentage and that you I don't even know me technically I don't know what you're labeling but I don't know it's I think it's better than having to add like a another another thing, you know. Exactly. And I should add the uh meat glue and powder, or should I make the paste with it and then add it to a mix.
+
+[29:54] I would add it to the mix in powder form unless you're having trouble, like unless it's such a big batch that you're worried it's not going to get in, in which case, but remember when you're doing that, you're adding water. So as long as you're okay with that, you could do it that way. But also every just the key thing, everything quick. Yes. Okay.
+
+[30:10] Alrighty? All right, thank you. Let us know how it works. Good luck with it. No problem.
+
+[30:15] Super quick break. Alright. Come right back. The following program was brought to you by S. Wallace Edwards and Sons.
+
+[30:29] Edward's Suriano hams are aged to perfection for no less than 400 days and hickory smoked to achieve a deep mahogany color. The Edwards name is well known for its world-class aged and cured meats. Their exclusive curing and aging recipe produces a unique flavor profile that enhances the quality characteristics of Berkshire pork. Optimum amounts of pure white fat marbling contribute to a flavor that's a delicate, perfect balance between sweet and salty. For more information, visit Edwards VA Ham.com.
+
+[31:03] Nice. We back. Sam wrote in about uh I wonder whether it's the same Sam. Interesting. Uh I have another quick question for Dave.
+
+[31:10] The old school poly science blue and white circulator has two pump speeds, slow and fast. Uh, does heating the water up uh in the fast pump speed help the circulator heat up faster, Sam? Uh no, here's the deal. The old circulators had a low and a high pump speed for this reason and this reason only. Uh a lot of laboratory approcesses uh take place very close to ambient temperature.
+
+[31:39] And on the high pump speed, you add a lot of friction to the system, and so you can heat the water just because the pump speed is higher. This is according to Philip Preston. This is not, I don't want to someone calling me back and saying there's not enough friction. Listen, I don't want to hear about it. I'm like, this is like from the mouth of the designer of the piece of equipment.
+
+[31:58] And so the low pump speed is there just so that you're not dumping a lot of extra energy in in case you're doing ambient or subambient cooling, like with an ice bath or something like this, right? Uh so uh in a cooking uh in a cooking scenario, you should always use high. Always. Unless you have something that's extremely fragile that's getting knocked around, like for instance, let's say you put eggs in the circulator and you didn't take the care to make sure that they're not rattling around like I'm not gonna name names, but I saw a four, like a three Michelin star chef have uh in a demo. I think I told us before, but the eggs is rattling around the freaking circulator bin.
+
+[32:31] I was like, oh my god, why do you hate eggs so much? Why are you doing a demo if you hate eggs? Uh so in that case, maybe you can put it on low, but always keep it on high, always keep it on high. Um, and I don't know because I don't know which Sam you are, but there another Sam that wrote in saying on food storage. Can you ask Dave this question on the radio show?
+
+[32:49] Do you know any book or resource dedicated to optimal food storage? For example, how best to store celery. Thanks, Sam. Uh, I don't, uh, except for Harold. I didn't have a chance to go peruse my copy, but Harold McGee's uh third, well, fourth, if you count the uh if you count the second edition of On Food and Cooking as a different book, which I think you should.
+
+[33:08] Like so many chapters are rewritten. So we'll call it his fourth book, uh, The Keys to Good Cooking. In that he has a lot of tips for uh optimum storage of things. So uh and that's like one of the because that book, see, like a what a lot of people don't get about that book is meant to be like go-to kitchen reference on stuff like storage. So I need to go reread it, but I think that's got a lot of stuff like that, and I would welcome anyone tweeting on in books they have on that on that subject.
+
+[33:34] Uh, you know, because mostly I read kind of technical crap on this on this sort of thing. Uh and Eric Michael Morris from Little Rock wrote in uh this question on sugar-free gelato. Uh, and uh and I'm what I'm gonna have to do is punt this to next week because I need some more information from you, uh Eric. Sorry uh if this has been addressed before. I love the show, but haven't listened to them all.
+
+[33:55] Like if you have the problems. Uh uh I uh I'm the GM of a wood oven southern Italian style pizza and salad place in Little Rock, Arkansas. We make our own gelato fresh daily. I was curious about making a sugar-free uh gelato slash sorbetto. What do you think of that word says?
+
+[34:11] Fine. You like that word? Because you like anything Italian or Swiss. How it like except for the people. You don't like I thought you love the people.
+
+[34:18] No, I don't like the people. Where in Switzerland or Italy? Both. You don't like Northern Italians or Southern Italians? I hate all Italians.
+
+[34:25] You heard it here first. What the hell? She likes the language, likes the culture, food, food, landscape. Landscape. But the people, eh.
+
+[34:36] Ah, wipe them off. Uh she's just like people. I just want you to like I work with a ball of hate. Just a straight up ball of hate. I I want to do um Jack, can you do like a ball of confusion cover, like somehow referencing like ball of ball of hatred for a stars or something?
+
+[34:55] Yeah. Uh I was curious about making a sugar-free gelato slash sorbetto. The owner was trying to explain inverted sugars and crap to me that is over my head. Any advice on uh making outstander sugar-free gelato? Thanks, Eric Michael Morris.
+
+[35:09] Okay, here's here's the questions that I have for you, Eric. So the question straight up off the bat is why do you want it to be sugar free? In other words, are you trying to make it savory or is it for uh diabetic application, or is it just that you want to have no added sugar, but you're okay with the sugar in fruits, right? Because sugar is a, you know, the sugar is there as a uh as a texture agent, right? So you can, and you know, invert sugar, so sugar, sucrose is a disaccharide, it's like joined together and it tends to crystallize and have other things.
+
+[35:46] And invert sugar tends to make things uh the it has a certain amount of freezing point depression to it, right? And if you were to break that same molecule, sucrose into its two constituent parts, which are glucose and fructose, all of a sudden it depresses the freezing point even more. So adding a certain amount like uh decreases the freezing point uh more, etc. etc. But that's not the that's not the the the point here.
+
+[36:08] The point is is that why do you want to do what you're doing? Um if you want it to taste the same as an ice cream or uh gelato, unless you're gonna add artificial sweeteners to it, don't add stevia. I hate stevia stash. Come on with me. You hate stevia?
+
+[36:20] Jack, you hate stevia? Yeah, obviously. Yeah, I hate stevia. I have no I have no problem with people who like it, except for what that means is that you like something that tastes bad. I mean, it's possible that some people can't taste that awful poisonous metallic bitter taste at the end of stevia.
+
+[36:36] It's possible. But it's just wretched. Anyways, so the question is do you want to add an artificial sweetener? In which case you need to bulk it up with a sweetener uh that is uh if if you're looking for calories, it's non-caloric and uh has the same sort of uh freezing point depression uh and texturizing properties. Uh in which case I'd have to look up what I think the best kind of uh, you know, but that the other thing is when you move to a high bulk uh uh sugars like that like isomalt then you increase the poop pensity of the ice cream because you're not digesting the stuff anything you don't digest increases the poop potential of what you're working on which is why everyone worries about isomalt even though you really don't eat that much of isomalt you know what I'm talking about?
+
+[37:15] Yep yeah anywho uh if you're just looking to use like natural fruit juice then get yourself a refractometer and boil your you know boil your fruit juice down until it's basically sugar and then uh add it back to it and measure the measure you know measure with the fractometer what your sugar level is um have I hit any other ones anyway write me back and tell me like exactly what you want this sucker to taste like versus what you're tasting like now and I can uh get you a better answer as to as to what you're doing. But the sugar is doing three things. It's providing a taste which you may or may not want it's uh depressing the freezing point which you definitely want otherwise it's hard like a rock and even aside from that it adds uh texturizing properties to it. So three things. Uh and I'm sure many many others.
+
+[38:01] Four minute warning. Okay. Um okay so is there anyone I promised I'd get to let me get back to the to the top of this. I'm gonna get the bone marrow next week because I'm gonna ask Nils about that uh because he's Chris May writes in I think you've touched on this topic before but I'm interested in using my soon to arrive Kickstarter Anova water circulator to temper a ginger decoctions. What do you think about decoction as it would fine yeah uh in a pot.
+
+[38:25] I make ginger beer often and typically make my primary decoction by boiling blended ginger for the last eight minutes of a 15 minute boil. Recently I've started supplementing cold pressed ginger juice and water in my batches after the initial boil. However, raw cold pressed ginger juice is way too astringent and aggressive. In my initial experiments, I found that even microwaving the ginger juice to as low as 120 uh Fahrenheit softens the jagged edges of the raw ginger and makes it pop. Uh but I would like uh precision control of the ginger decoction temperature for future recipes, keeping it as raw or strong as possible.
+
+[38:53] My question is this is a water circulator uh like the Nova an acceptable precision tool to heat the two to four cups of my ginger decoction. My primary concerns are cleaning the circulator adequately and harming the circulator somehow. Here's what you do put it in a Ziploc bag and then put the Ziploc bag in the water. Bang, done, right? Boom, ch boom.
+
+[39:09] Or yeah, just do that. And then if you want it to flash off, you can leave the Ziploc bag open and clip it to the sides of your circulator. I've done that a million times. Boom, done. Hooked you up on that.
+
+[39:18] Second question Can you describe the effects of heat on an aromatic such as ginger? I assume it's not denaturing the ginger since there's no protein. There are proteins, but uh there are no proteins that are on or retangling, but I'd love to get some kind of theoretical insight into the transformation from raw ginger to the warm transcendent melange that's uh just a bit of heat provides. Many thanks and keep it up, Chris May. Okay.
+
+[39:36] So um ginger has uh a bunch of stuff going on. They're uh volatile aromatics. These things uh dissipate on heating, even low heating, such that dried ginger, which is rarely heated above 40 degrees Celsius, often loses a huge percentage of its volatiles over time. So what you're doing when you do that is you're losing your citrus notes and things like this. Uh then the non volatile side, which we'll call the pungent side, uh, primarily in the raw ginger, you have these things called gingerols.
+
+[40:01] And the gingerols are changed even with mild heat over prolonged times or with higher heats for longer times into these things called shogels and uh zingerones. And those are less pungent. So like as you change, you change the flavor and the pungency. And there are some kinetics. You can look online.
+
+[40:20] Um I I've just downloaded a book called Spice Chemistry, and I'm gonna read it a little bit more. But even low temperatures like you're describing will one, drive off the volatiles and radically change what's going on. And B, will uh we'll denature if you hold not denature, but we'll will uh hydrolyze uh ginger all to its other components. Now, if you're at like ADC, like you know, by the time you've gone for like five hours at ADC, you've you've already you know hydrolyzed like half of the ginger all that's present. So and also a lot depends on what varietal you're starting with.
+
+[40:51] You're starting with the Jamaican ginger, African ginger, an Asian ginger, how old was it when it was picked, etc. etc. Because the longer it grows underground, the more fibrous it gets and kind of uh the harsher it gets. Anyway, uh so that was uh that that was that. I'm about to get kicked off, so I'll just say that the other questions uh I will answer next week.
+
+[41:08] I had some uh questions on the Twitter about putting oysters. Remember the old oyster trick I used to do? Uh remind me to talk about that next week. Uh and we'll come back next week with the cooking issues. Thanks for listening to this program on heritageradio network.org.
+
+[41:25] You can find all of our archived programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions at any time at info at heritageradio network.org. Heritage Radio Network is a nonprofit organization. To donate and become a member, visit our website today.
+
+[41:49] Thanks for listening.
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+[0:01] Step inside and let the excitement take you places. This is Muckle Shoot Casino Resort, the ultimate spot for action that reaches incredible heights, luxury that knows no bounds, and live entertainment that always thrills. It's all at one incredible destination. So when you look for the best, look nowhere else. Muckle Shoot Casino Resort.
+
+[0:24] The biggest and best in the Northwest. Must be 21 and over. Please gamble response. Muckle Shoot. Today's program has been brought to you by S.
+
+[0:32] Wallace Edwards and Sons, a third generation Cure Masters producing the country's best dry cured and aged hams, bacon, and sausage. For more information, visit SurreyFarms.com. This is Mitchell Davis, host of Taste Matters. You are listening to Heritage Radio Network, broadcasting live from Bushwick Brooklyn. If you'd like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more.
+
+[1:02] Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues coming to you live, actually at 12 this time. 12 o'clock. I was here at 12. Whoa!
+
+[1:10] On Heritage Radio Network in Bashwick, Brooklyn. Call your questions live to 718497-2128. That's 718-497-2128. Joined as usual with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez. How are you?
+
+[1:24] Good. Yeah? Mm-hmm. Yeah. Jack?
+
+[1:26] I'm doing great. Yeah? Yeah. Uh, we're gonna uh well to plan, we're gonna have a special guest caller after the break, Nils Norin, formerly of the French Culinary Institute, now heading up uh Marcus Samuelson's restaurant group, and we'll ask him how many restaurants he's opened this week because like whenever you're like Oh I'm you know, I actually well we used to just do fake Austrians, so I can't really imitate the actual Nils accent, so I won't even try. But anywho, he's like every time you call him, he's like, Yeah, I'm headed off to somewhere crazy to open like 13 restaurants.
+
+[1:58] I'll be back in like a month, right? That's true. Yeah. I think that he he and you were guests together the first time you came on Heritage on Patrick Show, like years and years ago. That is entirely possible.
+
+[2:10] Yeah. That is that is. I mean, I'm not gonna say uh plus or minus whether that's the case, but he he's gonna come on actually to talk to us about bone marrow to answer Justin's pressing questions on bone marrow. Because you know what? I've uh I I used to like yeah, I'll talk about a little bit now.
+
+[2:25] I you know I've cooked plenty of bone marrow in my life, but it's always just been kind of home style in Asibuco. You know, you like usbuco right, stuff? Finally, something we like together. Jeez. You know, Asabuko when I was a kid was cheap.
+
+[2:38] It wasn't expensive back in the day. So, anyways, uh I used to cook it anyway, and then I'd take out the bone marrow and put it on my risotto. But you know, that's about the extent. I've never I've never cooked at restaurant Estelle. So uh, you know, for service.
+
+[2:52] So anyway, so Nils are gonna come on because the man is uh cooked more bone marrow than uh I care to eat. Okay, so uh let's answer some other questions. By the way, Dave uh Kleiman had a question a long time ago. He is at I am fractal on the uh on the Twitter, and he says, uh dear at cooking issues, reminding uh reminding you to talk about infusing clams slash oysters. And then he says sous V tricks, but I don't really know any sous vide well flavor tricks I know.
+
+[3:19] Sous V tricks I don't know for for oysters. You know any C V tricks for Oysters? No. I mean, I'm sure that like uh I believe the Rokas have like a razor clam recipe. I think I'm sure but although you know what?
+
+[3:29] Like you know who's got a really good low temperature recipe is the modernist cuisine recipe for gooey duck. For those of you that have never had the gooey duck before, I mean, for those of you that don't know what gooey duck looks like. Yeah, I feel like Stas will hate this. I mean, do you like gooey duck sauce? I don't think I've ever I've had it at Mirabold thing.
+
+[3:44] It's sp it's spelled geoduck for those of you that don't. So who the hell knows why it's pronounced gooey duck? And um uh what's his name? Yule Gibbons in stalking the blue-eyed scallop, which is a classic of foraging, by the way. Uh he you know, he does stalk in the wild asparagus, stalking the blue-eyed scallop, a couple other books.
+
+[4:04] Anywho, like he talks about going to get it like at the super low, low tide, like running out on the on the Pacific coast and getting I don't I don't know whether it's true or false, but he you know he has a uh an article on it. Anywho. It is um let's just say it's suggestive as a as an animal. Am I right? Mm-hmm.
+
+[4:23] Yeah. Yeah. I mean it's uh imagine you took uh like uh like a a steamer's shells, inflated them huge, then spread them open, and then and then went on the set of a porn movie with it and used it used it as a some sort of anyway, uh it's it it's horrific sight and even more so when you prepare it because you have to peel the outer skin off, which is possibly the most suggestive thing I've ever done in a kitchen. Like, hands down, you know, taking the skin off of uh off of a gooey duck outside is like banana rams. But uh so then it's it's very tough.
+
+[5:01] That you know, that siphon we'll call it, is very tough. And so, you know, one of the things you can do is just slice it really, really thin on a bias and and sauce it and then eat it like that. It's got kind of a nice crunch to it. Uh or or but Nathan and uh Chris and uh you know uh Maxime, these guys in the modernist cuisine, I don't really know whose recipe it was. They put it in a in a in a CVAP and cooked it very quickly, very low.
+
+[5:26] And it was the most tender gooey duck I've ever had in my life. It's delicious. You had it. You liked it, right? That's good.
+
+[5:30] I've only had it like crude, I think. Yeah, crude, where it's kind of crunchy. It's nice. But anyways, so on to flavor infusion. So here's uh Wait, really quick.
+
+[5:38] I just have to add this. The Evergreen State College in Olympia, Washington. Yeah. Their school mascots, the gooey duck. You're lying to me.
+
+[5:45] I'm not lying to you. I'll show you uh I'll show you over the break. Who the hell would do that? They call it Speedy the J the Gooey Duck. Well, I'm sorry that he's so speedy.
+
+[5:54] Goodye the gooey duck. Yeah, so you yeah, speedy. That's what she said. Anyway, what college? Uh it's it's uh Evergreen State College.
+
+[6:03] And they couldn't have chosen like something out of their like amazing temperate rainforest up there. They had to choose the gooey duck? There's a gooey duck fight song. Uh-huh. I'm not kidding.
+
+[6:12] There's a whole yeah, how does the mascot look? Like like a gooey duck. Well, what direction is the siphon point in? Uh oh Jesus. God.
+
+[6:23] Like, what what kind of asexual dean and or president of the university allowed this to happen? Either that or what kind of just nut job would be like, if that's what the kids want, if that's what the kids want, gooey duck it is. You'll have to live with it, kids. I don't. I don't go to the football games.
+
+[6:40] You know what I mean? Is that gotta be how it happened? Oh man, this can't be real. The fight song lyrics. I don't even know if I can.
+
+[6:47] Alright, Jack, yeah, you give me some of your musician skills. Give me the fight song lying. I'm not gonna sing it, but I'll say goo. I can't even do that. Do it!
+
+[6:53] It it's gotta be family-oriented, it's a college fight song. Go gooey ducks go through the mud and the sand. Let's go. Siphon high, squirt it out, swivel all about, let it all hang out. Oh.
+
+[7:04] This is real. Oh my Washington State. Oh my god. Yeah. Oh my god.
+
+[7:11] I'm sorry. That is horrific. It's bad. It's terrible. Oh my God.
+
+[7:17] You you have defiled Washington. What is it? Washington, what is it? Washington State. Washington State.
+
+[7:22] Evergreen State College. Evergreen State College. You have defiled a delicious animal with your innuendo. Anyways, so on to flavoring oysters. Actually, the by the way, I'm just gonna say this up front.
+
+[7:35] Uh this is news to Nastasha as well as myself, because I just thought of it just now. Uh flavoring oysters using uh flavored uh seawater analogs was the very, very first post on cookingissues.com. Uh it was uh in fact I came up with that trick, and then I'm like, we should have a blog to write this stuff down. So it's the very, very first post on the cooking issues. And you know what I realized, Stas just now?
+
+[8:02] And I'll talk about a second thing, but it's like um I'm never going to have the time again in my life to write cooking issue style posts. It's just not gonna happen. How many times have I said I want to try and do it? And I can't, because all those posts are like two and three thousand words, right? And more sometimes, four or five thousand.
+
+[8:23] And they're all like I you know, we had to do extent extensive research, and really I was only capable of doing that when my job was to come up with that kind of stuff at the French Culinary Institute. So, you know, nowadays I don't really have the time to um to devote to just writing that length of even if I were to come up with the idea, writing that length of dialogue on stuff. So I shouldn't pretend that I am. We should just close cooking issues, like archive it, never pretend that it's gonna go live again. It was what it was, and you know, we have the content, it's there, the content will stay up.
+
+[8:56] And then if ever, you know, I decide to have some sort of online presence other than the radio show and uh and Twitter, then we'll do some some new concept, some new new format, because we won't be able to do the cooking issues, and rather than change what that was, just kind of leave it as uh a document. What do you think? Sounds good. So all right, R.I.P. Cooking Issues blog.
+
+[9:21] Well, Paul can Paul can continue it, but I think like if Paul Paul Adams, by the way, who's uh uh the our good friend who is the uh I guess he's the head like like chief online editor, I don't know what his title is. I don't know, popular science. He runs he runs their web presence fundamentally. And uh he's a really good guy. You know, maybe we'll do something someday, me, you know, with with uh with Paul, because he he's a good guy.
+
+[9:42] But I think we should change the format. You know? Something less, something more spontaneous, less less. We tried that. It didn't work.
+
+[9:50] No, I mean, not as cooking issues. Just like, you know, just like a random thoughts thing that anyone that's working with us can put stuff up or something like this. Something I don't need to devote. I mean, I it's whatever. Anyway, I think we should just have it be what it was, and that's it.
+
+[10:03] Yeah. You know what I mean? Cooking issues lives on in the radio show, Jack. Did you know that? Yeah, exactly.
+
+[10:09] Okay, so back to oysters. It was the very first post uh on uh Oh, that used to be my iPad. It was the very first post on uh cooking issues. And the concept was this. I read uh somewhere that oysters don't I I was reading about the physiology of oysters, because that's the kind of crap I do, and uh, you know, it it came to my attention that oysters won't feed in a refrigerator, it's just too cold.
+
+[10:30] That you need to be in a uh kind of a mid-range uh temperature for it to feed, but you also don't want it to feed over, I forget what the number is, I'm gonna make it up. Let's somewhere in the fifth sixties, 50s or 60s, because then you start having uh problems of growing Vibrio toxin it, right? So it's this middle line thing. And then I realized, well, look, look, if I can get oysters to feed at a temperature that's just above refrigeration temperature, I can maintain that temperature with a with with uh either a circulate or just a standing bath. And it turns out you don't need the circulator, but you can maintain it, right?
+
+[11:00] And I was like, well, what do they feed on? They feed on seawater, so I can get aquarium salt, because at the time I had a uh a saltwater aquarium and I had a bunch of aquarium salt, and you could just mix up, you could take whatever you want, and the the thing we settled on was carrots and cardamom, like carrot juice and cardamom. Uh and I you have to put it through a very fine filter because if you clog, if you clog an oyster's uh gills with particles, and it's a small particle size, it's some some I forget exactly what it is, but it's somewhere in the range of 10 microns, 10, 15 microns, something like this. And a vitapre's not going to get anything below about 20 microns in that range. I don't know what a champion sieves juicer plate is at, but anyway, we I have a rotor stator homogenizer, so I use that to get the particle size down really low.
+
+[11:43] You could probably just do a decent filter on it and get it through, then added uh aquarium salt to get it up to the base salinity that I wanted, and then you place the oysters in it and you let them feed for a couple of hours, and then uh you ice them down again. You don't want to uh keep them in the bath for too long because even it's possible, and I spoke to an oyster physiologist about this, it's possible for the oyster to grow bacteria that are not harmful to it, so the oyster will still appear healthy, but could be harmful to you. For instance, you know, vibrio, but that's not gonna grow in the conditions that that we that we we have here. Anyways, so uh so we chose that and we did it also with clams. Uh we did what do we do, size?
+
+[12:23] Bacon, onion or something like that. We did like a bacon, onion and clams. And uh once you practice, you practice a bunch, you can get to the point where like 75% of your oysters are eating the stuff. And you want to spread them out in a layer and you don't want to disturb them because if you disturb them they shut up like like a clam or an oyster does. Yeah.
+
+[12:39] That's what they're that's what they do. And then what you do is you wash them off, right? And then you pack them on ice and then when you shuck them they're bright orange on the inside which is awesome. And a couple other people have tried this. I don't know if anyone's ever done it for service in a restaurant but it was like kind of my first uh trick not my first trick cooking trick obviously but the first one we wrote up on the blog.
+
+[12:57] So you can go look at it on the cooking issues which is now uh archived yeah so anything good happening this week Stas um are we doing anything huge no I feel like we did a bunch of stuff last week was I away last week did I go somewhere last week no we were here we did some event I know we did some event I can't remember though we uh we got some I I don't want to say this but I feel like I have to or people are going to start getting pretzels I think it was all about that all Sears all the time oh no because last week this is the week I got back from uh Tails right I got back on the Sunday or the Saturday and then last week I feel I feel like we had a big event we always have like it's not like whatever we can't have a week without having a big event we came back from Tales. Yeah anyway my point is is that uh we got word from our factory that they will complete the production now I'm not guaranteeing this this is what they say complete production on the 15th of August of August and we're shipping by air, so it's gonna get here super fast. Well you had your book party last week. Oh yes. Oh, that's true.
+
+[14:05] My book, uh by the way, uh I've seen the the color stuff. They're pre-printed in China, and I should have advanced color copies in uh in like a month. It arrives in October and then sells in November. Should be fun, right? Well, not really.
+
+[14:19] It's never nothing's fun. That's exciting. It's exciting. I'll give you exciting. I hear croissant being eaten.
+
+[14:25] Jack is a croissant. Now you know what it's like, Stas to have you sitting there and do stuff guilty as croissanted. Like uh so Stas, what are your thoughts on Cuisson? I like chocolate-filled croissants. That's it.
+
+[14:36] You don't like a regular croissant? What? I don't know. What we what do you have against flakers? And all that is just uh plain.
+
+[14:45] Plain. You might actually be the first person I've ever met that doesn't like a regular croissant. Chocolate filled and PS. P.S. nothing like a biscuit.
+
+[14:55] If you if your croissant, if your croissant is like a biscuit. No, just like the white flaky thing. You know. So how do you work with me if you don't like white flaky things? Boom!
+
+[15:09] Burn. Burn. Uh okay. So we got some questions in uh from Sam, whose questions we ask uh answered some of last week. Uh can you run through any tips for excellent sauteed uh vegetables?
+
+[15:25] What kind of sauteed vegetables do you like? Most. Most? I was about to say, first tip: don't try to saute zucchini. Boom!
+
+[15:33] Because that stuff sucks. If you want the like the the best way to cook zucchini is to not cook it at all. Throw it out. Yeah, the uh yeah, that's that's my favorite cooking technique for the zucchini. I think if you hollow it out, keep it whole, hollow it out, and stuff it with meat ground beef, yeah.
+
+[15:49] Oh, that's good. That's good. And then you roast it. Yeah. You don't saute that sucker.
+
+[15:52] You roast it. That sounds good. Alright. Another way you can do it is if you uh like like dehydrate that thing so that the water's out of it, like cut it thin, par dehydrate that sucker. Uh, but then if you soak, if you saute it in too much oil, suck it's gonna absorb oil like a spiz nunge, and then it's gonna suck.
+
+[16:11] You know what I mean? So you have to like uh yeah, cr crush it. You know what? I'll talk saute because I know Nils is gonna go crazy on sauteed vegetables. I'll save saute vegetables when we're talking to Nils about the uh about the bone marrow, because that'll be fun to engage him on some sauteed vegetable stuff.
+
+[16:26] Also, people have different things, like uh another one of the cooking issues posts, like sauteing mushrooms, right? Everyone, like the old sort of, you know, uh I forget who it was, whether it was Robouchon or one of those guys, uh Gagnier, one of those dudes, one of those fancy famous French dudes, was like, the ultimate would be to saute a single mushroom at the time, right? Because everyone's like, everyone's like, you know, look, if you saute the the mushrooms, they're gonna sweat and they're not gonna get uh a nice uh crust. Bull crap. That's crap.
+
+[16:53] What you want to do is you want to swamp those mushrooms when you're cooking them so that they get rid of their water and they're boiling the water out, getting rid of the water and not absorbing oil. If you saute mushrooms wide open in a pan, they get rid of uh uh the water, sure, but then they're still relatively porous from the water expelling when they start drying out and they soak up a lot more oil. Not that soaking up oil is bad, but most people don't want like a greasy, a greasy mushroom sponge. Do you want a greasy mushroom sponge? No, you don't.
+
+[17:23] So uh what you do that you know, there is you saute them in a huge in a huge amount, they boil off all the water, and then after they start getting down to the bottom, then they can really color up without getting rid of any water at all, and without absorbing that much oil because they've already densified, which is another trick. Vegetables that are porous that you don't want to absorb too much oil, right? You want to get them fairly pre-densified before you do your saute on them because otherwise they're going to absorb oil as you as you uh saute them. But we'll talk to we'll talk more with uh with Nils as he comes in. Your second question, though, is uh interesting because it's about uh something that Stas hates and then something that both Stas and I hate, and I hope all of you hate as well.
+
+[18:03] Uh are beets not the tilapia of the vegetable world. Uh how uh what am I doing wrong, or what's a good cooking method for for beets? And uh Stas, what are your thoughts on the beets? I don't like them, you know that. I I do.
+
+[18:19] That's the only time I haven't seen you finish an entire I'm not gonna call out whose beets they were. It doesn't matter. It doesn't matter because that's not what's important here. I did have a I did have a say the way that they were served, though. It was like pull it out of the ground, right?
+
+[18:34] Yeah, wash it off, yeah. And oven for like 15 minutes. You know what I mean? And then like and then like quarters. Yeah.
+
+[18:45] Not a small beat. Big Stas. Were they beefs the size of like a uh like a supermarket radish? No, no. No.
+
+[18:52] No. It was like uh like a a large one of those large plastic baseballs. Like a wiffle ball. Like a whip, yeah. It was like and quarter wiffle balls, quarter wiffle balls, no salt, no salt, no salt.
+
+[19:04] Oh my god. And uh let me just say that it was not good. I've never seen you not finish it. I was like, man, well, here's the weird thing, because beets for me are like beets for me, like I can deal with a crunchy beet and an al dente beet, but like soft on the outside and hard on the inside with that dirt flavor, which is what we're about to talk about, right? So the problem with beets have several problems, but the main problem is that uh dirt, that dirt earth, dirt earth flavor.
+
+[19:35] Actually, I like beets. I like pickled beets. Yeah. Well yeah. And and I like a fully roasted beet.
+
+[19:41] And uh I like uh like apples soaked in beet juice. You know, those red old steakhouse apples. Jack, you know I'm talking about the old yeah, good, right? Anyways, uh I like all that stuff. Um prefer, you know, all the pastry chefs prefer cane sugar.
+
+[19:58] Did you know that? No. They say that the beet sugar, whatever however they produce it, I don't know whether it's true or false, but they say that it's not as good for candy making. Could be uh horse crab. Probably is.
+
+[20:07] Anyway, uh, but that's not what I'm talking about. So uh the thing in beets that is probably off-putting to you, other than the fact that it stains your hands if you're using the red ones. It's a horrible stain your hands, right? Mm-hmm. Yeah.
+
+[20:19] Not as bad as turmeric. Mm-hmm. Which is I'm I could I made that last week at the house and I stained some stuff and my you know, uh Jen was like, my wife was like, uh, you weren't kidding. You stained our you stained the cutting board. I was like, yes, I did.
+
+[20:33] I was like, I d and whatever. And I did it at the I told did I talk about that already? I did the turmeric drink at the Mont Leon at the tails of the cocktail because all that room at the Mont Leon was a rental. Did we talk about me almost getting arrested at the Mont Leon? No.
+
+[20:47] Well, if we have time, we'll talk about me almost getting arrested at the Montaleone. Okay, anyway, the chemical in beets is uh geosmin. It's the same chemical, which is apt why you say it that grows in tilapia or that's present in tilapia that makes it taste muddy and some catfish. However, in uh when it comes in fish, it's the product of uh bacteria that the uh it's a it's a bacterial byproduct that they that they eat produced by uh well by bacteria. Beets.
+
+[21:14] It was not known until very recently whether or not beets produce their own geosmin, or whether or not uh or is it geosmin or geosmin? Who cares? Uh you guys know I can't pronounce anything. It wasn't known until recently whether beets produce it on their own or whether there's bacteria that grow around beets that's causing it to have that flavor. But uh Lou uh et al.
+
+[21:32] in 2003 in the paper, biosynthetic origin of geosmin and red beets, proved that uh it is produced endogenous endogenously, meaning that the beets actually produce their own geosmin. And here is the first clue for you on how to make beets not suck so dang hard. The geosmin concentration is six times higher in the peel than in the pulp. So when you get rid of the skins, whether you well, if you're roasting, you're probably gonna do it afterwards, right? But when you're getting rid of the skins, get rid of the skins.
+
+[22:01] Don't just like take a little bit of layer off the outside. Get rid of enough skin to get rid of most of the geosmin. Here's another thing. Do you think there's a reason why beets are often served in acidic sauces or in acidic uh pickles or in things like that? Do you ever think about that, Stas?
+
+[22:17] The reason is is because geosmin breaks down in the presence of acidity, and which is why you add it to tilapia. Well, it's just to add some flavor to that muddy piece of crap trash. But uh, but anyway, so geosmin if it's heated in acidity will break down. So acidity is gonna help if you want to do like a post-finish with uh like a sucky in a uh in an acid kind of environment, that should help. And also the acidity probably helps cover up the smell of that stanky earth thing.
+
+[22:47] But the best beat I've ever had was made by uh friend of mine, Mike Sheeran, who uh is a chef out in Chicago, and I don't know whether it was originally his idea or an ideas and food idea or whatever, but he par dehydrated the beets, then sauced them, and then uh roasted them. And they had a kind of a chewy, meaty texture, and that was the best damn beat I've ever had in my life. That's the first time in my life. I like beets fine, you know, when they're prepared properly, not like quarter wiffle balls, you know, like flash, flash cooked quarter whiffle balls. But like this was the first time uh where someone served me like a beet salad, and I was like, holy crap, I could eat as much of this beet salad as they have in the house.
+
+[23:28] Still waiting for that moment for me. Yeah, but you know how you like like you know, you have to have eaten with me, but like I get in these modes where like I go ape ape list on things, like you know, I've been known to eat like I don't know, like 20 grapefruit. You know what I mean? It's like if I'm like, man, this grapefruit is delicious, like I can just keep eating it. Uh and I felt that way about this beet salad.
+
+[23:49] Anyway, uh and one more quick question he has, and then we're gonna go to the uh We do have a caller. We have a caller? Yes. All right, caller, you were on the air. Hello, Dave.
+
+[23:57] How are you? Doing well, how you doing? Doing all right. This is Steve from Indiana and Indianapolis. And I had a few quick questions for you about uh technology.
+
+[24:06] Sure. Uh one being the VACMaster VP112. Uh do you think it's worthwhile to purchase out if I'm not gonna be doing retexturizations and things? I just want something that I can vacuum uh liquids with the meat or whatever in and sous vide cook at. How much does it cost?
+
+[24:24] It was five oh nine. I mean, it's just a dry pump. Yeah. It just seems to me to be an in-between cost. You know what I mean?
+
+[24:31] Like, I've never used it. Someday I'll get a hold of one and I'll use it. Hervay, that I, you know, who the who I used to work with at the French Culinary Institute, they sent the FCI one or the ICC, whatever they're called now. And um they sent him one and he seems to like it. I've never used it.
+
+[24:47] I mean, by all accounts, it's better than the food saver, but it's just in that for me in that uncomfortable in-between price zone. You know what I'm saying? Like, isn't the comfortable price zone like 2500 for like a decent uh like something that can actually pull 99% plus vacuum? No, closer to 15, I think if you get the if you get the right deal. I haven't shopped one for in a long time, but you can get one, I think, with a decent pump for closer to 15.
+
+[25:11] So in other words, it's like 99 bucks, 500 bucks, or 1500 bucks. Like those are your choices. Right. And like so for me, but maybe it's closer to two. I don't know.
+
+[25:21] I have to look at uh, you know, like depends on what kind of deal you can get. Uh and you know, Philip Preston has a new one out, uh, new as of last year, but I still haven't tested it yet. Um that is not the mini pack that he also sells. I have a mini pack and I like it, the small mini pack. Um, but you know, Philip Preston uh he released a uh I think a sub $1000 unit or one that's right around a thousand bucks, but I have never used it.
+
+[25:46] I I don't know. The question is, why do you want it? If it's just for cooking, right, most things can be done in zips. If it's for preservation, then sure, fine. They're you know, they're gonna be fine.
+
+[26:00] Like what like why is it you specifically want a vacuum? Well, okay. So um I got uh one of the Santa uh immersion circulators. I used to work at uh at a kitchen shop. Uh and so I got a I I pretty much abused my discount there and got a bunch of kitchen gadgets.
+
+[26:16] Um and now I'm going into medical school. So I really want something that I can have in the fridge, uh just ready to go and drop into a bath. Additionally, um my brother and my dad had some of the food that I had cooked. Like I did 48 hour or 48, 72 hour short ribs, spare ribs that I you know then grilled and things like that, and they were just fascinated by how convenient it was. But when I went over to my dad's house, I got him one, uh a sansare.
+
+[26:43] He was uh cooking uh like each steak in like a cup and a half of oil. Uh and so I really wanna like I want to get him something that I could just give him the meat and have 'em drop it in and and not waste like I think he went through uh a half liter of oil that day. Yeah, yeah yeah. I mean people tend to overestimate how much oil you need in the zippy by like a good amount. Like you need And I told him Yeah.
+
+[27:11] You only need enough to make up the best. What do you say? I told him about the wash well I showed them water submersion technique and he still did the like massive amounts of oil. But go ahead, sorry. Yeah no I'm saying like you know one thing to do is cut it down but in the yeah in those circumstances I've heard that that that that that that VP whatever it is works fine.
+
+[27:29] Um I've never had any personal experience with it. But I you know as a kind of a mid range vacuum I hear it's a lot better than the food saver. Let's put it that way. Okay. Um but I don't I like I can't you know I won't recommend anything I haven't used personally.
+
+[27:43] Do you know what I'm saying? But if I'm gonna eventually upgrade to something that I can actually do retexturizations and and and uh things like that, infusions, whatever, I I might as well just go all the way. Yeah, or you could get this one and then give it to your dad. Yeah that's true. That's true.
+
+[27:57] You know, cut your teeth on this one and then give it to your dad when uh when the you know or I mean I don't know I don't know what your butt your budgets are, but you know um what I find in life is that if I really want a piece of equipment and then I buy the lesser version of that piece of equipment, I'm never happy and I end up always I always always end up getting the good one in the end and then the question is will you be kicking yourself for having also purchased the lesser one? That's what you have to tell yourself. If you're anything like me that that's what will happen to you. That makes sense yeah. Oh okay so uh uh do you have a little bit more time sorry sure what's up okay um I was looking into cryo milling technique because um my girlfriend's gluten free and we were trying to figure out good ways to do super fine flowers without spending an hour you know it's uh like uh tossing an arm or like and so uh I I don't in Indianapolis it's very hard to source liquid nitrogen.
+
+[28:49] Uh I'm a chemist and I have access to doors and things like that so that's fine. But sourcing the actual liquid nitrogen and not stealing it from work is another uh is another uh situation. So um can I do the same thing with dry ice or am I gonna run into a problem with the moisture content actually contained in dry ice. Well I mean the problem with dry ice as opposed to liquid nitrogen is that you know it's not very good at contact uh you know because you can't just submerge something in dry ice. You know what I'm saying?
+
+[29:19] So you can get the stuff cold by putting it in a box but then you have the additional problem of you you tend to get a lot of condensation unless the dry ice is unless unless you storing something in a box with desiccant and then throwing a chunk of dry ice in and then letting it chill all the way down and then and then milling it you tend to get a lot of condensation from the air onto anything that's freezing that hard that's not submerged. Do you know what I'm saying? Right, right. Which is one of the reasons why I don't really like using dry ice even for like distillation runs because I tend to condense a lot of stuff out of the air, whereas liquid nitrogen ends up being pretty clean for me that way. Uh, because you can do total submersion.
+
+[29:57] But the my my real question is is where are you trying to so like why is it hard to source where you are? Because that's something of general interest to me is uh ease or lack of ease of sourcing liquid nitrogen. You tried the welding shops won't won't help you out. I actually uh don't know I guess I don't know where to start. Like I I looked online and I typed in uh liquid nitrogen Indianapolis, whatever.
+
+[30:20] I mean that's probably not a good way to do it. Yeah, no, no. And I was looking for uh for food grade dry ice, because uh actually at work, uh when we when I use dry ice on my cold finger, my rotovap, uh there's just a bunch of stuff left behind. So you definitely need uh I mean I think that that dry ice is kind of an exception. Uh well liquid nitrogen I think is pretty pure uh regardless from a welding shop.
+
+[30:43] But I I just um yeah, I need to I need to go and and and investigate a little further, I think. Yeah, welding shop. Welding shop. And by the way, like so, you know, the classic dry ice, uh dry ice acetone bath for rotovaps, I don't particularly like them because um especially in the kind of work that I'm doing, there's a lot of uh water phase in the in in the stuff that I'm distilling. And um the dry ice is so cold that unless I suck a partial vacuum before I chill down the cold finger, I get massive amounts of condensation in because the way that the Bukey cold finger is designed, the vacuum takeoff line is right next to the uh condenser finger.
+
+[31:29] And so it unless you have a unless if you chill it before you suck a vacuum, I c I get a lot of crystallization in the ta in the takeoff from my vac line, and then I occlude my vacuum, and then once that happens, all hell breaks loose loose with your distillation, and it's very hard to get back on track without losing flavor if you're doing it for food, not for lab work. You know what I mean? Right, right. And so liquid nitrogen, because it is actually somewhat less powerful, even though it's uh a lot colder than dry ice, I find to be uh easier and if I make a mistake I can rectify it quickly and it's just not as messy. I've never I've never liked working with dry ice in my roto vap um very much.
+
+[32:08] Um but yeah so I would go to a welding shop and this the secret is that uh you know at least around here the welding shops also sell to medical places. So they have you know theoretically for instance they have different grades of nitrous. So like m the my local welding shop sells nitrous to doctors. Uh and and a a lot of it isn't really the purity of the supplied gas it's the care with which they purge the tanks and make sure that the lines that they use for transfer aren't contaminated with things like oils or or or other nasty things. Okay.
+
+[32:41] So a lot of these guys will supply hospitals and clinics and things like this and so you know I wouldn't worry I wouldn't worry overly much in every single chef in in New York City gets from one of two welding shops, McKinney or TW Smith, one of those two that I know of. Okay. Excellent. Oh I'll I'll check into it and if I hear anything uh about where you can get good liquid nitrogen in Indianapolis I'll I'll tweet it to you or something so that so that people other people who listen to you in Indianapolis can know. Cool.
+
+[33:10] Um and and the last thing is you said that you were a home brewer at one point. Oh, a long time ago, yeah. Um did you ever do water adjustments? Uh what do you mean? So like you would start with RO water and then you would water adjust based on uh oh no, like Burton salts and stuff like that?
+
+[33:30] No, I mean uh like I like uh most of the stuff, most experiments that I was doing, uh I I was you know, I kind of drew a base level of what I was gonna like deal with. And so like I um my assumption was New York City tap water. And then um I was working mainly on um on uh mash temperatures times and um and like you know the the the grain bill that went into it and you know messing with OG and yeast and things like that like I never I never got to the point where I was messing with the uh with like the salts and the chemistry of the of the water. I was just using uh filtered, you know, de obviously declorinated, filtered New York City tap. But I never I never deionized it or removed our water is very, very soft here.
+
+[34:17] Um so you know, maybe it maybe it wasn't ideal, I don't know. But then, you know, that would have been something I probably would eventually have gotten into, but I I you know, but by the when my second son Dax was born, it was just like you know, it was just too much to obliterate the house because I was doing all grain stuff and it really wipes an apartment out. I was in a very small apartment at the time. Really makes a mess in the apartment. Well, and see, I have I have half a garage that I have for brewing equipment, and it it fills like the entire half a garage.
+
+[34:42] So yeah, I completely understand. So I was just curious if you ever heard of anybody using modernist salts in it, like the calcium lactate and calcium lactate glucanate instead of the calcium chloride that people are using. But someone uh someone uh, you know, call or tweet in and we'll uh we'll talk about it, even though it's a little outside of my depth. Excellent. Sounds great.
+
+[35:03] Thanks, Dave. Alrighty, talk to you soon. Bye-bye. All right, let's go to our first commercial break. Back with Nils Norin.
+
+[36:18] The following program was brought to you by S. Wallace Edwards and Sons. Edward's Suriano hams are aged to perfection for no less than four hundred days, and hickory smoked to achieve a deep mahogany color. The Edwards name is well known for its world-class aged and cured meats. Their exclusive curing and aging recipe produces a unique flavor profile that enhances the quality characteristics of Berkshire pork.
+
+[36:42] Optimum amounts of pure white fat marbling contribute to a flavor that's a delicate, perfect balance between sweet and salty. For more information, visit Edwards VA Ham dot com. Jack, that's like the music from like when like the couple in that, like in that like kind of southern country show, like they're just about to get together, they're headed towards the barn, but nothing kind of raunchy's happening yet. That's what that music is. The pre-love music.
+
+[37:08] Yeah, it's it's the it's the country western TV, like movie pre-love music. Well, let me give a shout out. That's a band called the Hollows. They're local. They're uh friends of the network.
+
+[37:18] And all the music we play here is is local and and you know, sourced from friends. So if you're a listener of the show and you have a band or a music project, email us. And submit your music. Especially if you need some pre-love. If you have a barn within about like a uh 200 meter radius of you with like a hay loft, like that's the music to crank.
+
+[37:39] You know what I mean? It's gonna happen. That's the that's the reignition of being near a barn. Isn't it? Doesn't it hurt in hay though?
+
+[37:49] I I don't know. Don't you think? I I didn't want to get that it, you know, I'm gonna guess yes. Yeah. I mean, I'm sure there are different qualities of hay.
+
+[37:58] Probably. But it's it's the proverbial role in the hay. That's where you're hiding away from the the farmer. Dad. Definitely dad.
+
+[38:10] Well, presumably, you know, back in the day if we're talking stereotypes. Alright. Uh so do we have uh do we have Nils? Yeah, we do. Alright.
+
+[38:19] Nils! Hey, how are you doing? Going well. So this is uh Nils Norin, uh, you know, who uh did uh some of my best work with Nils Norrin. Now uh running uh the uh Marcus Samuelson restaurant group.
+
+[38:32] Is that your official title? Running the Marcus Samuelson restaurant group? What is it? Like what's your official title over there? Yeah, official title is uh VP of restaurant operations.
+
+[38:41] Yeah. And so how many how many restaurants did you open this week? That was the question we had earlier. But this week, but uh this month, about uh three. For real?
+
+[38:54] Yeah. How many different countries? Uh two. Oh, no, actually, actually three. Uh Muda, Sweden and Norway.
+
+[39:06] So, which one weren't you counting before? Norway. Norway. Uh Norway, yeah. Oh, Norway.
+
+[39:16] Uh, you know, for those of you that I don't know, you know, Nils is a Swede, so they have that Swedish Norwegian stuff. Give me the give me give me the Norwegian pronunciation of Mirvold. Uh Mirvold? Yeah. Oh, man.
+
+[39:31] All right. So Nils, I'm gonna read this question and then we're gonna talk about it. But uh, and then afterwards we'll talk a little bit about sauteed vegetables, because I know you're very opinionated about the saute vegetables as well. Here's the question from Justin. Um I have a question about bone marrow, specifically regarding preparation for service.
+
+[39:46] I've just taken charge of the kitchen following the resignation of our executive chef. Resignation, huh? Yeah. Yeah, whatever. Nils, we know how that goes, right?
+
+[39:55] Okay. Yeah, exactly. Yeah, the resignation of our executive chef, and have been tasked with creating a bar menu. I want to include roasted marrow bones, but don't have a ton of experience with them, and neither do I. That's why we're calling Nils.
+
+[40:06] Now, Nils, your big prep, you used to uh you used to serve a lot where you would like uh slow braise them out and then use the fat in things, right? That was your favorite thing to do? Yeah. Yeah. It's delicious.
+
+[40:17] Yeah. Uh well what we I forget what you used to mix it in with when you were done. Oh, tons of things. Uh I mean, bone marrow in pure, it's delicious. Yeah, you used to w what w it was what was it?
+
+[40:29] It wasn't the celery root, was it? What do you used to add as uh sunchoke? Sun choke and bone marrow, yeah. You know, um this is hilarious. Uh Nastasha and Piper back in Piper was working with us.
+
+[40:40] They did a a slow cook on sunchokes and ate all of the sun chokes slow co uh quickly cooked. They only cooked it for like fifteen minutes and they ate like half a pound each. How hilarious is their gastrointestinal distress? Yeah. That's not the great idea.
+
+[40:57] Yeah, so Nils would like render out the marrow. Now I remember, and he would submerge the sun chokes and cook cook them low and slow long time to turn the stuff into inulin so that it's not a huge fart bomb. But you know, Stas never asked me before she cooked the stuff out, whatever. And then Nils, I don't know if I told you this. But she then did the same thing on purpose and served it to a friend and his girlfriend at a picnic, and she and Piper did not eat it and just watched them eat all the sun chokes while they ate around them.
+
+[41:23] They did a beef and sunchoke like cold picnic salad and did it to them and didn't warn them, I think that's kind of not cool. What do you think? So they I guess they're not friends anymore. No, they are. Yeah, I mean, they're also kind of low quality people, so anyway.
+
+[41:39] Okay. So uh uh anyway, uh I've this so we're back to the bone marrow question. I follow the general rule of soaking the bone marrow and uh the bones in cold salt water with multiple water changes, but most recipes I found and do you agree with that? The multiple soak? Yeah, I mean, you definitely get the blood off, right?
+
+[41:57] Because it's gross. That's why. Yeah. Uh but I you know like how long do you have to do it to get 'em like really creamy? To get them to roast them?
+
+[42:07] No, no, no. They to get all the blood out. Like how long do you usually let 'em I mean, I don't know. It's a couple of hours usually is enough. Yeah.
+
+[42:14] That's what I figured. Uh but most recipes I found suggest roasting the bones for around 20 minutes at 450 uh in the Fahrenheit, which is what is that? That's like 220 or something like that. Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[42:26] Uh however, I need a much quicker pickup. Uh is this something I can safely par cook with good results? Or do you know any techniques for a faster pickup? I'm planning on using three inch bones split lengthwise, and uh would like to be able to send them out in under 10 minutes. I do have a circulator and I'm eagerly awaiting the arrival of my cerez all, thanks for all you do.
+
+[42:43] Keep it coming. I mean, I would probably pop them, separate them, use the I mean d are you a believer in like bones for plating versus the bones they come in, or would you leave them in the bones? Or would you p pop them out and then cook them separately and then lay them in the bones for service? No, I would I would keep them in the bones. Why why add an extra set when you don't need to?
+
+[43:01] That's true. That's true. So what would you do for the par cook? I was just thinking because the bones, you can't really vac a that kind of a bone down because they're so porous, you know what I mean? Or would you just cook keep them in like a CVAP?
+
+[43:13] Like what would you what would you do for par cooking on that thing? So th to see scenarios, uh if I would do that rooster, which I have at CVAP, I would keep them next to my fried chicken in the CVAP. And then and they're I think they're gonna be perfect. That's what, 140? And then put them in the salamander or your your your turbo uh torch.
+
+[43:33] Uh or if you do them in a ziploc bag in in the circulator, that probably works well too. And you just use them in some rendered in some rendered keep keep the marrow and rendered marrow and just reuse it a bunch? Yeah. I mean keep the put the whole bone, right? Right.
+
+[43:51] Figure out what the right temperature is, which I'm not sure. But if you're gonna do it next to the chicken, what do you keep your chicken at? Sixty? Yeah. Yeah.
+
+[44:00] Uh a little over. Uh like what is keep at. Oh, you you oh you keep it at the cook temperature? Yeah, okay. So you you you hot hold it at the cook temperature.
+
+[44:09] Yeah. Yeah. Okay. So um yeah, but that that that's gonna be fine. It's not gonna it's I don't think it's gonna break the structure down at those temperatures.
+
+[44:18] I think you have to get it hotter to break the structure down, don't you? Yeah, I do. Yeah, I mean I think it's gonna hold. I think it's gonna be fine. And then like a quick flash off on the with the hottest thing that you own, and I think it's gonna be good.
+
+[44:30] It won't have the look of a roasted bone on the outside though. If just on the top where you sear it off. You think that's a problem or no? No, I don't no, I mean you could. But I mean, no, I think it's fine if you do it on the top.
+
+[44:42] What does it matter? What does the other roasting do? Well it's it smells good. Yeah, and it also dep it depends on how clean you've gotten the bone beforehand. You know what I mean?
+
+[44:51] Yeah. Like if i so like you can do a worse job cleaning the bone if you're gonna roast the hell out of it, because no one minds a little piece of like like skin or a silver skin or meat stuck to a bone that's if it's roasted to hell. But nobody wants like a blonde looking piece of junk stuck to the outside of their bone. You know what I mean? No, that's true.
+
+[45:12] So you clean, you gotta clean it. Yeah, but if you clean it, but you pick up it's gonna be fast. Oh, you're a minute. Two minutes and it's out. Yeah, yeah.
+
+[45:20] And like, you know, for something like that, like hopefully you have like a deck broiler or a sally. I think a sally is good because you're not worried about overcooking it so much. And so, like, even better than a sears all or something like that, I think is gonna be I mean, I don't think it's gonna bleed out too much on a sally if you have it it right in the sweet spot. Searz all work, obviously. No.
+
+[45:38] But I don't think it's gonna bleed out too much in a sally. You know what I mean? No, I don't think so. Yeah. I think it'd be fine.
+
+[45:44] And uh all right, so then uh, and it probably a bone, I'm I'm looking at my hands at the bone, what uh I think it'll probably be ready to serve within like four zero minutes. Don't you think? Yeah, yeah. I mean, but you might as well put it in an hour before because nothing's gonna happen once it's time pressure in that. Yeah, but I'm saying like minimum forty minutes, I would say.
+
+[46:10] Yeah, yeah. You know what I mean? Because remember it's only cooking through the one side because the it's not gonna heat up that fast through the bone. But I think once it's in there, it could stay in there like probably all of service. I mean, I've never done it, but I think it could probably stay in there all of service.
+
+[46:25] I I would bet it can. Yeah. The only thing I'd be worried about is if you cool it and reheat it, it might get like oxidized. I wouldn't necessarily do that unless it's in a bag enclosed. But um Yeah, because but whatever.
+
+[46:38] I think it would work. Um what I like on my bone marrow? I like parsley on my bone marrow. You like chopped up parsley on your bone marrow, Nils? Parsley is delicious.
+
+[46:48] And salt. And yeah, and I I also like a little bit of lemon zest, but that's me. Uh okay. So then we had another question. Uh can you run through any tips for excellent sauteed uh vegetables?
+
+[46:58] And our first tip was don't saute zucchini. Yeah. Because it's horrible. Yeah. I mean, the the only way you're gonna do it is if you gorge them, right?
+
+[47:12] Take some of the uh the uh water out of it. Right. Then then it can be okay. Yeah, yeah. But let me ask you this.
+
+[47:20] If you could have a sauteed carrot or a sauteed uh or a sauteed piece of zucchini, would you ever choose a zucchini? Nope. No, you wouldn't. I mean it's like straight up. You know, I think look, I think by and large, and we already talked about uh you know before you were on, we talked about you know what we used to do with the with the mushrooms.
+
+[47:44] Mushrooms are a special case because they're not uh a veg they're not a vegetable, they're a fungus. They break down differently. So they they maintain their structure even over a long cooking period which is why you can cook them nicely uh in a in a saute without without them losing structure and you can get a nice crust on the outside and you can get the water balance right very difficult to do this with spongy vegetables in general right when you say so Nils like zucchini it is eggplant that's that's why carrot works great. Yeah but the zucchini doesn't no I mean but like also like I'm not a huge fan of like a sauteed eggplant you no the only way I like my eggplant if they're really cooked through if they're not cooked through it tastes like a piece of meat talking about hay before but not in a good way. Tastes like a what your phone fuzz for a second yeah but it it tastes like hay if they're not cooked through.
+
+[48:42] So again if you want to gorge them you know in density and it might work. Yeah or like we used to do in the vacuum or like people who microwave them but the issue is is the water con see zucchini and eggplant both suffer from the problem like a two part problem. They're spongy, like right out of the gate, they're spongy. So they're gonna absorb oil. And then most people when they're sauteing, they're so worried about the temperature dropping too low that they overheat the oil and the oil takes on those fishy burnt aromas, which I hate, right?
+
+[49:14] Like unless you're doing wok cooking and you like really do it right, like the overcooked oil on a saute, I think s smells nasty. What do you think, Nills? Well, yeah, I think you know what I think. Yeah, all right. I couldn't agree more.
+
+[49:25] Yeah. Right, right. So it's spongy to get go and then also anything that's not sponge is water. So it's like it's you can't win. You know what I mean?
+
+[49:39] Like they have very little structure. So, I mean, I think those things are much better. All those things are much better roasted where you can sit there and let the w like vapor, although not zucchini, but eggplant, better, you know, l let let all let all the water get out of it or whatever. But so those are my tips. Choose the right vegetables.
+
+[49:57] Do you have any like big tips for like sauteing? I I think like if you're sauteing a carrot, just don't do don't do a bad job. You know, I think is like the big tip. I always cheat. I always throw uh a little bit of water in uh I always cheat, throw the water in the pan, let it let it flash off, par cook, and then saute after the water evaporates.
+
+[50:16] But is that considered a uh like a a jerks technique? I mean in a restaurant you wouldn't do that, but I mean at home. No, I mean you can, or you just saute them until you have the right color, and then they're finishing up them in the oven. No, yeah, they could do that too. That's probably better because you're not absorbing any water.
+
+[50:33] You probably keep a more dense, uh you know, you probably keep them more you get get a more dense flavor, saute them for color and then finish them in a not too hot oven, like three fifty or something. Yeah, yeah. Yeah. Just throw the pan in the oven. Right?
+
+[50:47] Just saute it till you get the color you like, throw the pan in the oven and walk away. Just beware that you might take a while for it to finish off in the oven. Yeah, it might, depending on how big they are. It's gonna be fine on that end. You can't then you can park with them and finishing it off later.
+
+[51:04] Yeah. Yeah. That's a good point. Um, all right. So uh I think uh Jack's gonna kick us off the off the radio pretty soon.
+
+[51:12] I have a couple of questions. By the way, Eric Michael Morris was wrote in last week about sugar free gelato. Didn't didn't clarify what he wants, so we can't uh answer that. Uh and then the rest of stuff we can get to next time. So anything uh anything good going on, Nils in the cooking world?
+
+[51:25] Come up with any new uh new flavors, new ideas you want to talk about on the radio show. Uh nothing that comes to mind yet. But I'm gonna have some soon, though. I'm actually working on some stuff, but it's too too early. Yeah.
+
+[51:40] Disclose some. All right. Well, well, why why don't you come back in person sometime and hang out on the radio show? You ever you ever uh free on the Tuesdays around 12? Yeah, for sure.
+
+[51:50] Alright, cool. And uh Jack, by the way, tells me that we might be switching our times uh next next season, wherever a season is. I have no idea what a season is. But uh we might be switching our times up a little bit. But Nils, thanks for coming and answering all of our bone marrow questions.
+
+[52:02] We'll see you all next time on Cooking Issues. Thanks for listening to this program on Heritage Radio Network.org. You can find all of our archive programs on our website or as podcasts in the iTunes store by searching Heritage Radio Network. You can like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter at heritage underscore radio. You can email us questions anytime at info at heritage radio network dot org.
+
+[52:30] Heritage Radio Network is a 501 C3 non-profit. To donate and become a member, visit our website today. Thanks for listening.
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+[0:00] Today's program has been brought to you by S. Wallace Edwards and Sons, a third generation Cure Masters producing the country's best dry cured and aged hams, bacon, and sausage. For more information, visit SurreyFarms.com. This is Michael Harlan Turkell, host of the Food Scene. You're listening to Heritage Radio Network.
+
+[0:18] Broadcasting live from Bushwick, Brooklyn. If you like this program, visit Heritage Radio Network.org for thousands more. Hello and welcome to Cooking Issues. This is Dave Arnold, your host of Cooking Issues, coming to you live on Robertus Pizzeria and Bushwick Brooklyn on the Heritage Radio Network with Nastasha the Hammer Lopez and Jack Insley in the engineering booth. How you doing, guys?
+
+[0:46] Good. Ooh, how'd you have that much breath in you after riding your bike here? I don't know. You know what? Uh, well, before I get into the bike, uh, calling your questions to 718497-2128.
+
+[0:54] That's 718497-2128. And now back to your question, Jack. You know, you know that everyone who bikes in this neighborhood, they know that there is a gi like a block and a half from here is a giant cement factory. You know this, Jack? The giant cement.
+
+[1:08] And something I mean, I hate driving past it because whenever I drive past it, like even although I'm breathing through my nose, like, you know, I'm inhaling concrete dust, and it always like I'm fine all the way here, up and down the bridge. I could get off and do the radio show at Admiral's Noah's. Bike past that concrete factory, and it's like all of a sudden my mouth is totally shafted. They're just spraying Portland cement dust into the atmosphere at a ferocious rate. But I realized something else.
+
+[1:33] You know, uh, you know, for those of you that are fans of Neil Diamond, you know the Brooklyn Roads song. We mentioned on the show before, Brooklyn Roads. Anyway, you know that you know this song, right, Estas? Neil Diamond? I thought it was oh yeah, okay.
+
+[1:44] Jack, you know you're Neil Diamond fan. Not a Neil Diamond. The hell's wrong. It's not Brooklyn Roads. Brooklyn Roads.
+
+[1:50] Brooklyn Roads. You're thinking of uh uh LA's fine some of the time. Yeah, no. This is Brooklyn Roads. It's an entirely different song, not as popular.
+
+[1:59] But uh, so I always thought it was laughable because we would ride but Stas won't ride our bike here anymore because she took a tumble on Bushwick Avenue once. And Bushwick Avenue, and I've mentioned this before, is like kind of like a slalom course. But then like it's like look, seriously, it's like it's the it's totally like moguled out, it potholed out, moguled out, and then there's giant blobs of concrete just on in the middle of the bike lane, right? Yeah. And then uh like a month and a half ago, Jack, I don't know if you were biking around here.
+
+[2:27] You bike, right? I um I have a car. Yeah, so do I, but I bike, whatever, anyway. I'm on the back. And you have to move it every morning for alternate side parking anyway.
+
+[2:36] No, I know. All right. Yeah. So, anyways, very green. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
+
+[2:40] Well, is it a partial zero emissions vehicle here? Not at all. Have you heard of this partial zero emissions vehicle? It's not zero emissions. My I'm my Subaru is it says P I see, partial P Z E V.
+
+[2:53] Partial zero emissions vehicle. Hey, listen, people, every car is zero emissions when you have it turned off. What the hell is a partial zero partial zero? Smart. You know?
+
+[3:01] I'm part, you know, what does it make any sense? Does that make any sense to you at all? No. No. No.
+
+[3:07] Partial, partial, my butt. Anyways, so about a month ago, maybe you did notice this, even though you were on a car, maybe two months ago now, they totally repaved the stretch of uh Bushwick that's near us. It was like totally sweet. New blacktop. No potholes, no life ending potholes, no nothing.
+
+[3:23] And I was like, man, all right, I'm gonna stop making fun of Brooklyn Roads. And then like the next week, the big turds, like like copper light dinosaur turd fossilized chunks of concrete on the thing, and I realized it was those damn cement trucks. Had extra cement in those freaking chutes. The freaking chutes are pointed to the freaking right, right? Uh, you know, so that they're not pointed into the center of traffic.
+
+[3:44] They're on the right, and they're blopping concrete right into the freaking bike lane. And that's why there's always blobs of concrete in the freaking bike lane around here. Someone needs to someone needs to teach those weasels a lesson. You know what I'm saying? Jack doesn't care.
+
+[3:57] He's driving next to it with his car, laughing at the people flying over their handlebars next to him. I didn't even door them, and here they are over their handlebars. I've never doored anybody. It's never too late, Jack. It's never too late to door someone.
+
+[4:11] I've thankfully never. Is that true? No, I did stop I did pull an abrupt UE stopped and the guy hit me. So that's that's adoring. That's I consider that a dooring.
+
+[4:18] I did door this poor son of it. That was a long time ago, though. I was much younger, and I have been doored, so it's like I guess I paid it forward. Uh in a kind of reverse pay forward. Steal forward?
+
+[4:28] What is it? I don't know. Uh good day, Nastasha, Dave, and Jack. Greetings from France. Uh hope you uh me that is enjoyed my stay in Paris a few weeks back and you had the opportunity to visit a few of the places I had recommended in previous email.
+
+[4:39] I didn't get a chance to go to too many food things because I was with uh Dax, who doesn't really care much. Although he's not a crepe fan. Did you know that, Stuzz? No. He loves crepes.
+
+[4:47] You know, I had that crepe maker for years. He never asked for crepes, and now he's like, crepes, crepes, crepes, crepes, crepes, crepes, crepes, crepes, jelly. We couldn't get him interested in crepesle with you know the ham and the cheese in it. You like that crap, right? Especially you're a Griere fan, right?
+
+[5:01] Yeah. Because Nastacha's a fondue fondue fiend. She loves fondue. If if well it's not gonna happen, but like that's like if someone was gonna ask Sastaz out on a date back in the day, and they're like, you know, uh, I know it's cheesy and everything, but you know, you would you want to go to a fondue restaurant? Should be like, finally, somebody's asking me to a fondue joint.
+
+[5:18] There's not many fine fondue places here. There used to be in the 70s when fondue was popular. Back, you know, whatever anyways. So that's another thing that Stas likes. You can put that on the list of four things.
+
+[5:28] Stas likes fondue. Um anyway, I went to Pierre May and uh I think a couple of the cheese joints, but I didn't get a chance to eat out at any fancy restaurants who mainly sat outside so that if there was any screaming and wailing, we could just kind of cut ourselves away. Dax is old, he doesn't scream and wail, but you know, kids like they're not like always restaurant friendly. Although Dax is Dax is very good. Anyway, um back to the question.
+
+[5:51] Uh imagine I want to add caramel flavor into a sweet recipe. I can imagine that. Can you imagine that? Jack, you have have you do you have it imagined? I have it.
+
+[5:59] Okay. Uh could I take the original amount of sugar in the recipe, cook it to a caramel, let it cool, reduce it to a powder, and then follow the recipe instructions. Uh I am particularly interested in the effect on structure. For example, sugar gives cookies a nice uh snap and uh and provides structure to egg white uh egg whites and meringues. Would pure caramel work the same?
+
+[6:21] Also, it seems that caramel binds with water differently than sugar does. It becomes sticky after a while. Would a cake or cookie become soggy? In general, would you recommend I cook all the sugar into a caramel or only part of it? And how do the many components of caramel compare to table sugar, uh i.e.
+
+[6:35] sucrose for sweetness. Uh the first try uh will be a simple caramel flavored meringue. I'll let you know if it works. Um, so here's the thing, right? So it when you're taking uh sugar, sucrose, which is you know, one uh glucose and one fructose molecule bound together, and you cook it uh on its own or with a little bit of water until the water evaporates, until it turns brown uh and starts uh breaking down.
+
+[7:00] You get a number of things uh that happen to it. Uh well, first is you're literally breaking the sugar apart and changing it into something else. So the darker your caramel is, the more sugar you have uh broken down. And you know, uh I don't really understand uh what all those breakdown components uh are, but they're certainly not going to be as sweet. So anytime that you caramelize uh sugar, you are reducing uh its overall sweetness.
+
+[7:28] However, the other thing that you're doing when you're when you're doing this is you're also hydrolyzing some of the sugar into fructose and uh glucose. You're breaking that uh you're breaking that that bond and you're turning it into monosaccharides. Now, the difference is uh between uh between the invert, you're basically adding invert sugar to your recipe. So if you're taking what is amounts to pure sucrose, which we know the properties of, you're converting a portion of it into invert sugar, fructose and glucose, and then you're break further breaking down those uh inverted sugar portions into non-sugar sugar breakdown products. Okay, now to the extent that you have residual invert sugar in your uh in your sugar batch, that stuff is much more uh hygroscopic.
+
+[8:12] It's gonna pull uh pull up water more. So it's gonna have the same effect as adding corn syrup to something like a cookie or a cake, i.e. it's going to increase its ability to pull uh water in. So you probably won't have uh as much uh snap there, or you'll need to use other things to control uh the water ape uh uptake. Um now the other thing I have to say is that if you look online at people that have made uh caramel powder, and the typical way that they do it is they'll uh just cook sugar uh and then they'll uh pour it into onto a sheet.
+
+[8:45] Uh that you know, they'll cook it to a specific brown note, they'll pour it onto a sheet, and remember the sugar will be sweetness will be reduced, and it will probably be more hygroscopic. Uh, and then they pulse it in a RoboCo until it's a powder, and then you have to use that right away or it starts sticking up. However, if you look at some of the com uh comments on recipes like that on the on the interwebs, because I haven't uh I haven't really uh I've never had an occasion to to actually do this myself. But if you look at a lot of the com uh comments, people are like, it tasted kind of good, but it didn't really add that caramel flavor that I wanted to the recipes I was looking at. And then it dawned on me that uh when you say when one says caramel, and since you're in France, maybe you don't have this problem, but if it in America, when you say caramel to someone, they don't really think caramelized sugar unless they're talking about uh something on top of a creme brulee.
+
+[9:37] Typically, when an American says caramel, they mean caramel candy, which is kind of like a toffee-like candy that we eat, like craft brand caramels. Do you like those, Stas? Because they're delicious, right? Jack, fan of the caramels? I am.
+
+[9:49] You know what Stas and I actually both like? Uh, and we tried to imitate once, and we've miserable failure. Remember this? So uh Gets, it's pronounced Getz, but it's spelled GERTS, G-O-E-U-T-Z. You know, but it's pronounced Getz, so I don't want to hear anyone tell me that I don't know how to pronounce OE or Oma because it's their name and they can pronounce it how they want, and I happen to be pronouncing it correctly.
+
+[10:08] So suck on that. Uh but anyway, so Gets makes uh like my all-time, all-time favorite candy. Like I can eat so many of these things. And Stas, the miracle thing is that she also likes them, which is you know, kind of odd. Uh for the both of us to like the same thing, it's like, you know, pfft, I don't know.
+
+[10:28] It doesn't happen. Uh so it's called they're called caramel creams, and what they are is they're like a caramel, they're a caramel uh outside ring and a center like bullseye of like this condensed milk sugar stuff. Yeah, they're so good. They're so good, right, Jack? Yeah.
+
+[10:43] They're so freaking good. And they're like the size of a little bit bigger than a quarter, but smaller than a half dollar, and they're cut, you know, into pieces that are maybe oh I don't know, like a quarter inch steak or something like that. God, I could eat a ton of those. They're so delicious. So Stas and I, we wanted to do it where we we were gonna replace the bullseye with coconut flavor because we thought that would be good.
+
+[11:06] And we were just we sucked at it. Yeah, which it was terrible. It's good, right? Yeah. That would be good.
+
+[11:11] And we were gonna whole totally redo it and then do a whole bunch of these, but then we just never did. Um, probably because we're lazy, lazy. Anyway. So if you're looking to mimic the flavor of caramel, like a caramel uh, and they use for some reason I believe they use wheat flour in their recipe, which is weird. But if they they craft caramel, it's not caramelized sugar really that's doing that to you.
+
+[11:31] What you're dealing with there is the browned milk proteins because there is butter and cream typically in at least in a homemade kind of soft caramel. And the temperatures that you're taking those um those things to are more of a firm ball kind of a stage, so kind of a low on the candy thermometer scale, because they're supposed to be soft, right? And so the texture of them is coming a lot from the fat uh and from the uh milk protein, and then milk protein, you're getting almost like a dulce uh dulce de leche kind of uh a flavor, but mixed with a high high proportion of sugar into a stiffer thing. So that's where a lot of people when a lot of people say caramel flavor, they're associating it more with a browned milk butter and a small amount of sugar caramelization, like you would get in a dulce de leche. Uh and so if you're looking to imitate something like that, what you need to do is uh powderize caramel.
+
+[12:26] And to do that, you'd probably need to use something that it would absorb some of that butter fat so that you could incorporate it as a solid powder. And for that you could use something like Ensorbit brand tapioca multixtrin, but you wouldn't want to let this stuff get totally uh solidified in until you're done. I think there's some people online who have who have done it um hopefully with with some success. So uh I I would do it uh that way, but I would I don't know, I would ex I would experiment. Another way is you could probably um I mean it'd be difficult to get the milk do they did they make a they don't make a browned milk powder that I know.
+
+[13:01] Anyway, but I would try I would try doing that. So the question is are you trying to get the flavor of caramelai sugar or are you trying to get the flavor of caramels? Uh and your second question was uh I got a collar here if you want to jump into that first. Alright, call collar you were on the air. How are you doing?
+
+[13:17] I'm doing all right, how you do? Good. It's Antoine Collin from Boca Rifle Florida. Nice. How's it going?
+
+[13:23] How's it down there? Is it is it hot as hell? Always man. Yeah. And humid?
+
+[13:29] Always humid. I always align with you on how gross it is on here, but we'll do them. Well luckily for you it's pretty gross up here today too. At least uh if it probably wasn't that bad but the bike over in Brooklyn Nova anyway. So go ahead, you had a question.
+
+[13:43] Yeah. Um basically I always wanted to get your idea and thoughts on um just health and nutrition more than anything else. Like I like to eat, but I'm not so fond of working it off or I want to know what sort of things you uh believe as far as like health claims as to whether to reduce uh and any of the claims whether it's reducing complex carbohydrates or sugars, um, what things do you believe in as far as keeping a good balanced health. I mean, I like to eat a little bit of everything, you know, but some things obviously taste better than others. Right.
+
+[14:17] Uh I don't uh I don't believe in any really uh health claims. I mean um to be honest, I sometimes believe that specific things uh that have you know good studies in them actually cause harm. You know, like I do kind of believe that if you consume large amounts of coffee grounds that you'll you it's possible that your cholesterol might spike because I believe they've done studies on that, you know, controlled kind of studies on it. But most of the nutritional uh guidelines are uh problematic. I think people are getting better at it over the years, you know, you know, better now than they were, let's say ten, twenty years ago.
+
+[14:58] But if you were to go back and follow uh strictly follow the kind of theoretical underpinnings of nutritional science from fifteen years ago, you would be almost completely at odds with what the uh with what people are saying uh now, uh other than the strict adherence, you know, to variety in moderation, which you know hasn't changed, right? Eating a reasonable amount of food in wide variety has not changed, you know, ever really. Uh and and but like all of the specific things, like it's it's fat fat is your enemy twenty years ago as fat was your enemy, right? And then it's oh car you know, carbohydrates are your are your enemy and you can eat as much fat and protein as you want, and then it shifts around to well now it's a specific kind of carbohydrate or now it's a specific kind of fat. And while you know it for instance it may be true that trans fats specifically are are are bad, most people now don't believe that um fats are bad.
+
+[15:51] Now, the the problem here, so yeah, everyone on their sugar, on their sugar cakes and all this other the problem here is that it's very hard because if you just you can't just throw away everything that people tell you uh from a nutrition standpoint because you're still falling back, I think, onto kind of a poisoned mindset for what uh you know proper uh proper nutrition is. I think, and you know, I actually wrote something, we didn't submit it yet because someone thought it was too preachy, but maybe we'll submit it uh to eater, where it's like, you know, I think the the main point is that we have a poisoned relationship towards our food in general here in the US, and I think it um it alters um it alters our consumption patterns. Our our our ideas towards food alter our consumption patterns. So instead of instead of like over the course of uh you know a month or a year or two years, kind of trying to reset like what we think is uh sating and good and delicious, so you know uh we we try to take moral attitudes towards our food, like our this food is good, this food is bad, this food is junk, this food is healthy, and the healthy food we kind of crave to eat it for moral reasons, but in general, things that are cooked specifically to be healthy tend to suck and not be as sating, so we eat more of it, and then we cheat and we eat things that we think are junk because we crave them. And this whole sort of poisoned attitude uh towards food, along with a healthy, healthy dose of kind of the magic bullet thinking that we get from um you know, quack doctors like Dr.
+
+[17:17] Oz, who tell you that this or that raspberry ketone or this or that uh you know, X, Y, or Z micronutrient from somewhere in South America is gonna save us all from the fact that we haven't controlled or had a good thoughts about our diet in, you know, basically our whole lives. And so this kind of thinking of how we're gonna get around the problems we have, I think, is a lot of the problem that we have. So, you know, in general, like if you were to say, okay, I'm not gonna limit what I'm gonna eat and I'm gonna go out and I'm gonna eat whatever I want just because it tastes good uh the problem is is that when you first start doing that you're gonna gravitate towards the stuff that you've been denying yourself and you're gonna overeat binge on it and so yeah it's gonna be unhealthy after a while so I don't know the question how do we how do we get ourselves back on track where we can say okay I'm gonna cook to make stuff taste good and then I'm just not gonna eat so freaking much of it you know and I think that's really kind of the the the way to go to it. I mean uh to me like the classic snack wells problem is is that someone's like well I'm buying these snack wells and they're healthy but you know I I can't just eat one or two of them and you know because A I can't just eat one or two of them because I'm not sated and B somehow I think they're healthier for me so I can pound the hell out of them. You know what I mean?
+
+[18:26] It's just a poison relationship. And so rather than think about the particular health or nutrient basis, especially the nutrient basis I think you know we're so we have so much over nutrition nine tenths of us in this country not nine tenths but like those of us with money have so much of an o over nutrition problem that um you know that to worry about whether you're getting this much vitamin C or this much whatever I mean it really just doesn't come up. I mean most of us aren't deficient in anything. I'm deficient in vitamin D because I avoid the sun as though I was a a vampire but uh you know I'm kind of odd that way. So it's I don't know if this is making any sense but I mean really what I think you know we should now think it can be difficult.
+
+[19:07] So for instance if you go to a supermarket and you and you happen to live in a supermarket that is in in live near a supermarket that's in kind of a shitty area, it tends to be hard to shop because all the stuff that, you know, like when I like, you know, when you go to like a a a really good supermarket or a farmer's market, like you see things that, you know, the average, uh the average health jackwad would say is healthy, and you're like, damn, that looks delicious. That's a delicious looking tomato. That's a delicious looking X, Y, and Z. And that stuff just doesn't look so delicious or satisfying at a crappy supermarket. And so you tend to gravitate towards the stuff that's uh you know shelf stable and and c and just bad quality and so that you end up eating, you know, a lot of that and I think that throws uh things off.
+
+[19:47] So it's it's a complicated problem. Uh and I guess my feelings on it are rather complicated. No, it's funny because uh I used to work at a raw juice bar and um right during that time that I was working there I was listening to your whole segment on the uh raw foods and obviously I I enjoy cooked food but you know I had to make a living and as I did that I started turning on them a little bit of listening to certain things I was like you guys are full of it a little bit. Plus we also had five guys in front of us footers and I started eating there more frequently for whatever reason. Well yeah I mean that makes look I think that the I that is a great point.
+
+[20:30] I mean I love this. Jack we should put that on our uh on our on our whatever you put things on. But the uh the thing we put things on yeah I don't even I don't know what it's called you know somewhere out there. But the you know I think it's really a good point. I think and I wrote this in the in the thing that I that you know that we may or may not uh publish it's like a little 500 word essay.
+
+[20:48] I'm like look don't eat don't I think I specifically said don't go eat blended kale blueberries and spirulina. Don't drink that stuff because uh you think you drank too much last night. You know what I mean? Like, drink it, drink it if you like it. Right.
+
+[21:05] Buy buy stuff that you like. And if you drank too much last night, don't drink as much tomorrow. Do you know what I'm saying? It's like, it's like that's the better solution, you know. Uh oh my God, I walked into a juice bar the other day with you know, bartenders, by the way, I don't know if you know this, bartenders love uh these raw juice bars because they're perpetually thinking that they're which they are damaging themselves with their lifestyle.
+
+[21:25] I mean, let's be honest. A lot of these, a lot of these folks really, you know, they look they live kind of rough lives. You know, I mean, if you look at, you know, rock stars, which is much rougher version, I mean, they don't age well. You know what I'm saying? Keep it.
+
+[21:36] I mean, in all in all fairness, I actually went from working as a bartender to the raw juice bar. So yeah, well, there you have it. So I go to with with one of my bartenders to uh Liquiteria, which is a raw juice bar here, and and uh this is not really apropos, it's just I thought it was so hilarious. I walk in there and uh, you know, I'm not gonna buy uh I'm not gonna buy like a blended. I I like to eat fruit a lot.
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+[21:58] I could eat as much fruit as in is in a smoothie in fruit form because I'm a weird guy that way. I you've seen me eat like three quarts of blueberries in a row, right, stuff in solid form, but but I like blueberries a lot. But anyways, so I go in there and I'm like, uh, do you have any seltzer water? And the guy says, because you know, you know, my bartender friend was having some sort of liquid monstrosity, and I said, um, seltzer, and he goes, No, have you tried coconut water? I was like, what the f I was like, is your coconut water carbonated?
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+[22:29] And he goes, No. And I'm like, what the hell? You know? Have you tried, you know, have you tried getting, you know, I'd like some seltzer water. Have you tried me punching you in the face?
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+[22:38] I mean, they're just totally unrelated. I mean, they both happen to be liquids, but you know, beyond liquid form, I guess he thought I just wanted a non-flavored or light liquid. It's like, no, I want a carbonated liquid without sugar in it. Thanks. But uh anyway.
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+[22:51] So uh I appreciate the feedback you gave me, and I'm glad I pegged you uh without knowing so, as a former bartender, turned juice person, turned five guys customer. So I think you're I think you're approaching I think you're approaching some sort of balance. I think you're like, you know, you're going through the balance, uh you're going through hopefully the sinusoidal waves uh like mellow out and then you you know you get to a point where you just have like a a steady, steady diet of delicious stuff in moderation. Wow, call it the sine wave diet. Yeah.
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+[23:21] Yeah, well the the the uh the damped sine wave, right? It has to go down towards it has to go down towards a f the flat value. Right, right. Yeah, it's like a square wave. Yeah, you don't want to you don't want wait no, you don't want to be sinusoidal, but you don't want it to like be amplified over time and spool off into into into trauma at the end, you know.
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+[23:39] Uh you know, then you end up being like a f fruitarian, you don't even which is like like a or or jane or jane's have you has anyone ever met a Jane, a true Jainist? Yeah, we had one on the on the radio station. He was in a band. Like he's in a band? Yeah.
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+[23:53] How do you play an instrument that doesn't harm a bug? Tough. Yeah, I mean, like I I kind of have an appreciation for anyone who's like, I don't eat onions because they inflame the passions too much. How what kind of music do you play if you're a Jane? Like it's like world music, I think.
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+[24:09] But it can't like incite the passions anyway, right? It's all about like, ooh, like nothing, right? Did he have the he or she have the the the bug mask on? No. So it's kind of like I don't think it was I don't think it was so extreme, but oh, so didn't sweep didn't sweep the ground uh ahead of him or her?
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+[24:25] Not quite. His name is Sonny Sonny Jane, actually. Yeah. Alright. Sonny Jane.
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+[24:31] From Red Barat, which is they call themselves party music. I don't think Jane's party. If if you can't eat an onion on a moral basis, I don't think you can party. But we'll look it up. I mean, I'm not a j an expert on Jainism by any stretch.
+
+[24:44] But anyway, thank you so much for your call and uh keep calling back, especially if you uh say funny stuff about working at juice bars. Alright, bye. Uh Jack, should we go to a commercial break? Yeah, I'm also vitamin uh D deficient, by the way. Oh yeah?
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+[24:58] Yeah, they had to give me like prescription uh, you know, extra strength pills. I called them sun pills. Recently? Um, no, a few years ago. Really?
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+[25:05] Do you dip yourself in SPF two billion? No. See, I I don't I don't either, but I I wear hats and like long sleeve like me too. Yeah, Sas, have you ever you've seen pictures of like my wife has sent uh uh of me on the beach in long pants, long shirt, hat, sunglasses. Yeah, that's me too.
+
+[25:22] Yep. Vampire coming back with cooking issues. The following program was brought to you by S. Wallace Edwards and Sons. Edward's Suriano hams are aged to perfection for no less than 400 days and hickory smoked to achieve a deep mahogany color.
+
+[25:57] The Edwards name is well known for its world-class aged and cured meats. Their exclusive curing and aging recipe produces a unique flavor profile that enhances the quality characteristics of Berkshire Pork. Optimum amounts of pure white fat marbling contribute to a flavor that's a delicate, perfect balance between sweet and salty. For more information, visit Edwards VA Ham dot com. Man, I think we're all lucky there's not a barn nearby, because you know that's the if there's a barn nearby with that music going, it's all over.
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+[26:29] Right? Right, Jack? Isn't that what we said? It's the uh it's the pre it's the it's the country music pre-Levin Tunes. There's like a shed in the back.
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+[26:36] I don't know. Uh now you're ruining it for us. Now we have to like, you know, everyone needs to chain ourselves down so that we don't all run in the back by the shed. It's not a real shed, it's a Brooklyn shed. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
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+[26:47] It's not real, it's not romantic. Well, it is for that. Is that is that uh puffy legged bird still there? I haven't seen them in a while. There was a there's a hipster dove who lived at uh at uh Roberta's and then uh and then we saw another dove there, pigeon really, not dove, pigeon.
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+[27:03] Anyway, like the pigeon mysteriously disappeared right around the same time, Indy Jesus. Coincidence? Wow, you think it just flew off? I don't know. Like a white winged dove.
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+[27:13] Um a second question on Italian meringue. Uh, as the macaron recipe I have calls for it. I'd rather not move around, I'd rather not move around the cesiup. Uh, by the way, you know Italian meringue, right? You you whip the egg whites and then you cook the hell out of the syrup, you pour the syrup in super hot, and you whip it into the kitchen aid or whatever you happen to have when the syrup's hot.
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+[27:31] I'd rather not move around the syrup when it's very hot. Close to 120 on the Celsius. Uh could I make the syrup first and let it cool to a more reasonable 60 or 70 C before I pour into the egg whites. I understand the Caesarup helps cook the whites, but I was never told the benefit of that. French meringues is made with all the ingredients at room temperature and Swiss meringues are heated to 50 or 60 C.
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+[27:50] Many thanks and keep up the good work, Stan B. Well, you know, I don't know. I don't know. So there is a cooking, but obviously uh, you know, I don't know what the finished temperature is when it all balances out. The issue is, and I don't know, again, I don't know, because when I've done these uh recipes before, I've only ever just followed the recipes.
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+[28:07] But uh one thing that is true is if you're pouring uh sugar syrup that's at 120 C into uh egg whites, you're gonna lose a lot more, you're gonna lose a lot more uh moisture from like sudden evaporation into the in as steam into uh the kitchen and away from your meringues than you would if you uh if you didn't. So my guess is that um my guess is that if you let it cool, you'll have a higher liquid content in your uh finished meringue than you would, aside from any cooking. Let's erase any cooking issues from it, huh? Because uh because theoretically you're you're gonna cook these this meringue anyway. But my guess is that you'd be messing with the water balance.
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+[28:55] I don't know uh what the high temperature there is doing to the proteins more or less than it than it would at a lower temperature. Let's even say 80 C or something like this, something that's well above the temperature that would set the egg whites. So I don't know, but it could be the water balance might be a problem. I'd appreciate anyone sending in a tweet or a comment who has more experience uh, you know, uh maybe our favorite uh uh you know macaron blog uh blogger, you know who you are, uh could write in uh and tell us uh what she thinks about it. Anyway, uh many thanks, keep up the good work, stand B.
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+[29:27] We have a question in from Jean-Pierre that I'm gonna have to ask for some clarification for next time. Uh my question is that uh we wrote a blog about tortillas, and I want to know why when I cook my white corn to make tortillas, they come out brown instead of white or yellow. What am I doing wrong? I'm using field corn. It's not burnt just a brown natural color.
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+[29:47] That's very odd. You know, why I don't know. Like, why would so because we gotta make sure that you're I mean, I I I need to see it. Like I'd need to know exactly what your procedures are and what you're adding, uh, Jean-Pierre, because I g I can't imagine why they would turn brown brown. I mean, um, maybe s you know, some coloration on them, but I'm not familiar with any um corn corn uh like pre pre colors or color um color precursors that are gonna go brown uh under the treatment uh under nixtimalization, but uh I could be wrong and I've seen and I've done white corn and it comes out pretty white.
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+[30:27] I mean, maybe a little bit beige, but not brown. So, you know, there must be something with uh the technique that you're doing. So just tell me, like send me uh an email with uh, you know, for the question and I'll answer it next week with kind of exactly like step by step what you're doing in the recipe so that I can help uh troubleshoot. Like the more steps the better, because you know, you'll maybe include the step where it's where I can figure out what's going on. Okay.
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+[30:53] Uh hi Dave and Nastasha and uh the gentleman or the gentleman in the booth. Hello. Hello. Uh I'm wondering if you have any advice on diluting 35% cream with water to make something close to 3.25% milk. I tried it once using a blend tech HP3A.
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+[31:09] That's a blender. Uh cream and water, and it didn't really taste like milk, and I think the fat did not emulsify. Do you have any advice? I want to do this because I'd rather carry a liter of cream home from a grocery store than four liters of milk. And if it works well, it would be potentially a bit cheaper too.
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+[31:24] Michael from uh Toronto. P.S. thanks for hanging out at Dice uh with the hangout at Dyshow uh after uh Soylent Green. Did we talk about that? I did the I did the uh remember that?
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+[31:34] I did the a uh it's made of people. Do you know there was someone in the audience who was there who claimed to not know that that soil and green was made of people beforehand? It's PayPal, that's really great. Did you watch the movie? You've seen it?
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+[31:46] Jack, you a fan of the Soil and Green? I haven't seen the movie, but I'm familiar with the story. It's not a bad movie, and it's it's Ever G. Robinson's last movie, and uh, you know, and it's got the Charlton Heston in it. And regardless of what you think about prying guns out of his cold dead, you know, fingers, he was a good actor, you know what I'm saying?
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+[32:05] Apparently he was kind of a a sweet dude. I mean, not a not a not a jerk, is what I hear. Anyway, it doesn't matter. I mean, like it some people are complete jerks and you still like their stuff, right? Like Michael Stipe.
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+[32:15] Jerk, music good. You like REM? No. You don't like R.E.M. Yeah, we've talked about it.
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+[32:20] Why? What about you, Jack? Yeah. No, I mean they're good. You don't like Don't Go Back to Rockville?
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+[32:26] That's a good tune. It's a little, it's like a it's just like just before my time, you know. I remember losing my religion liking that song as a kid. Yeah, but I mean, like a lot of things are before your time, you still like it. Like Stas pretends to like the Beatles, even though she hates over half of their catalog.
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+[32:41] I would've guessed you hate the Beatles. Well, she hates all the songs you like. Oh, right. She's like, it like, you know, if there's some sort of song that you like or that anyone listens to on a regular basis at the Beatles of the Club. I think all their songs are great.
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+[32:54] I just think that a lot of them are radio played, and they have so many great songs that the radio chooses the same ones over and over. So I don't feel like listening to those ones anymore. That's fair. See, when I, you know, as I got older, like I had more tolerance for the songs that were overplayed on the radio as I was a kid. Really?
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+[33:17] Oh yeah. Like I couldn't, when I was or like overplayed by like the kids in in the in the smoking section. Like I there was a there was a chunk of time when I couldn't listen to Led Zeppelin because it's all that got played next to me. It was like Led Zeppelin. I'm like I'm done.
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+[33:29] And then I was like, you know what? Led Zeppelin is there's a reason why those kids were listening to it so much because it's great stuff. You know what I'm saying? Yeah. You like Led Zeppelin, right?
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+[33:39] Finally something. You don't like Led Zeppelin Jack? You know, I I I have a problem with the the not crediting the source material. They they took a lot of those songs from older blues musicians and yeah but I mean they're good. I like the records.
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+[33:55] They're okay musicians. But I mean his voice okay bottom yeah medium drummer. Yeah plant got some pipes man. Nah do whereas do you like uh do you like uh uh what's his name Steve Miller because he does credit people Steve Miller is it because I'll take Zeppelin over Miller is it Abercadabra that did it to you? Come on dude Steve Miller Stas had this argument I had this argument with Nastasha like a couple years ago she's like what kind of hits does Steve Miller have like no like really he had like what seven eight no he had like like 10 or 12 mega hits.
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+[34:46] No I bet it's I bet it's ever eight an eagle? Yeah look up how many we'll let your spirit carry you to the list of of songs they have done that's like well the reason I was saying that uh you know for Jack's benefit, is because he did not write big old jet airliner, but ended up in an era when people didn't give a lot of money back, even though I think the person who wrote it didn't really have access to his own publishing rights or something like this, ended up uh giving that guy a lot of money, and was the reason that guy didn't die in poverty was because of Steve Miller's version of Big Old Jet Airliner. Please don't carry me too far away. And uh well, I almost did that with the Casey Caseon. Rest in peace, Casey Kasem.
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+[35:27] You know, do you like Casey Casum Jackson? I listen to Casey Casey. Oh my god. Okay, so I'm sorry we're going far afield cooking issues, people, but like back in the in the I think it was late 80s or early 90s, Casey Kasem had an outtake where uh he was doing an introduction to someone's dog that died, and the dog's name was I forget what it was, something like Fluffy or Snuggle Snuggles, it was Snuggles. And uh he was introducing U2 and like to commemorate the fact that uh that this dog Snuggles had died, and he was doing his typical thing, and then he kind of flubbed the uh he flubbed the thing and he was like and he starts cursing and screaming at at the engineer for having him like go do this downer, like he's like, and his dog died, and and then he starts he has to talk about you too, and he's like, These guys are English, and who gives it?
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+[36:16] And he's like going like off on it, and then so they have like uh I forget what tune it was, like Unforgettable Fire or something like this, and Flatland, the the you know, kind of concept band, did uh a thing where they had somehow stolen those outtakes and just have Casey Caseon cursing and screaming about you two being English, which is hilarious. And and uh, yeah, mmm, strong concept music. Anyway, uh back in the day. Uh okay. Hello everyone, it's Mildred from Albany, New York.
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+[36:43] I'm still working through the backlog of up to episode 137 right now, but I skipped ahead to get Dave's suggestion on soy sauce replacements. Thanks so much for the suggestions and for getting my last name right. I haven't had a chance to try any of the suggestions yet, but mushroom ketchup was something I'd already wanted to try due to my uh interest in historical food. I have two follow-up questions for Dave and any guess that you may have here. Like moach m the like most ketchup recipes, there is a reduced to one half or two-thirds or more of the original volume step.
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+[37:08] Could I change that to one third or one quarter to keep the consistency more liquid and closer to soy sauce uh for the marinade we're trying to recreate? Uh you mentioned that I could ferment uh you two, you meant yeah, probably, but the thing is if you don't reduce, the two things are happening when you reduce. One, you're getting rid of uh liquids, right? Duh. And so you're gonna have a more concentrated flavor if you uh reduce more.
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+[37:31] Second, uh you are boiling off uh some volatiles. So, for instance, if there are volatiles in there that taste better after they've been boiled a while, they won't taste the same after they've been uh reduced. Secondly, if you reduce enough until things start getting paste-like or start losing a lot of their liquid nature, then you can start getting uh effects due to higher temperatures when you're working. And so you can get more kind of roasty toasty flavors. You just gotta make sure you don't scorch.
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+[38:00] So in those cases, you'd actually be better off reducing it to its original volume, like they said, and then watering it back a little bit with water or with something else that has flavor in it to try and get that liquid back in. But you have to run a test on your particular recipe to see what tastes better. Then it's easy, just take a small amount of it. Um, and then when you're at the you know, when you're at the point where you, you know, you've reduced it how much you want to for the texture you have in the finished recipe, pull out a little bit, then continue to reduce the rest down to um to you know what the original recipe says to, right? Then take a portion of that, dilute it back to the same texture as the one you pulled out earlier, taste it and see which one you like bette